IIIU ^ 1 Hollinger Corp. pH8.5 SF 465 .03 Copy 1 / A to Z OF Pigeons and Bantams BY FRANK W. DeLANCEY ILLUSTRATED 1910 ^ PUBLISHED BY ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY SELLERSV^LLE, PA Publishers of THE POULTRY ITEM E. E. ALTHOUSE President and General Manager W. S. SCHLICHTER Secretary and Treasur.-r PKANK VV. DeLANCEY Editor and Advertising Manager JOHN L. PURPLE Associate Editor and Circulation Manager J COPYRIGHTED BY THE ITEM Publishing Company 1910 "(gCi.A26:U?4 ) \^ .^ I COISTTEH^TS. PART I. — i'I(;kons. PAGP. Advance of the Industry 7 History and Origin of the Different Varieties 7 First Step in Squab Culture 7 Location for Breeding Houses 14 How to Mate 17 How to Tell Males from Females 19 How and When to Feed 20 What to Feed 21 System of Feeding 3U The Flying or Racing Homer 33 Training the Flying or Racing Homer 34 The Show Home- 3 « Jacobins , 37 Fantails 38 Pouters 40 Magpies 42 English Owls 43 Runts 44 Archangels 44 Barb 4 5 English Carriers 46 The Antwerp 4G Dragoons 48 Trumpeters 50 Tumbler 5 English Turbits 54 Carneaux 55 Swallows 5 8 Satinettes and Blondinettes 58 Diseases and Their Remedies 59 PART II. — BANTAMS. The Advance of the Industry 63 Bantams and Bantam Fanciers 64 Starting in the Fancy 67 Housing and Mating Bantams 69 That Bantam House 7 Breeding Fancy Bantams 7 3 Variety Bantams 71 Black and White Rose Combs in Sebrights — Golden and Silver 79 Sebrights and Their Origin 81 Cuckoo or Scotch Gray Bantams ... 84 Popularity of Cochin Bantams 86 Brahma — Booted and Polish Bantams 87, 88 Japanese Bantams 88 Game Bantams — Points of Value 89 A New Variety Game Bantams 91 Malay Bantams 91 The Bantam for the Fancier 93 Different Varieties of Game Bantams 94 Cleanliness 96 FRANK W. DELANCEY ( .^1 m4;t>'U7 INTRODUCTORY. In presenting this book, entitled "A to Z of Pigeons and Bantams," I feel positive its contents will be a great assistance to the old and experienced and a valuable guide to the novice and beginner. It contains information and illustrations that will enable the reader to intelligently start in the business and to successfully conduct it, along lines that are safe and consistent with good business methods. For the past several years increased interest has been taken in Bantams and Pigeons ; for every dollar that was invested five years ago $10 are invested to-day. And for every Bantam and Pigeon that was exhibited five years ago there are ten to-day. The pleasing part is, the business has been advancing from year to year, and will continue to do so. The writer has always taken an interest and never lost an opportunity in promoting this interest. Hence the presentation of this boiled-down and up-to-date booklet, describing and illustrating the different vari- eties and how to successfully handle them, and it is the sincere wish of the author that this book may increase the interest in Pigeons and Bantams. ■'Ml PART I. PIGEONS. The Advance of the Industry From the Fancy as Well as Squab-Producing Birds, Several years ago the country had what was called a Pigeon craze, and many thousands of peoide who knew nothing about the business invested heavily and lost heavily. The result was hundreds of thousands of birds were put on the market and sold for whatever was offered. The market was flooded and the business was looked upon as a farce. But thanks be to the men who stood by the guns and had confidence that when the sur- plus stock was exhausted the business would be on a staunch basis. This proved to be the result, and to-day we have many successful pigeon plants, and the product in the way of squabs commands as steady and high a price as when the craze was on. From a fancy point of view the growth of the business has been different. Its growth was steady ; new men went into the busi- ness for sport and pleasure as well as for profit. Specialty clubs doubled their membership ; the exhibits at the shows increased, and interest seemed to run as high as in poultry. Prices for good show specimens commanded as high a figure as poultry. The business advanced slowly but surely, and to-day Pigeons are one of the leading features of our fall and winter exhibitions. History and Origin of the Different Varieties. Sir Isaac Newton said, "To myself I seem to have been as a child playing on the seashore, while the immense ocean of truth lay unexplored before me, and 1 have only gathered a few grains of sand." How true this is when we com])are it to the origin of the different varieties of Pigeons, and all that can be learned con- cerning the first pair is the scattered fragments from the works of ancient writers. Noah first sent out of the ark a raven, but it did not return. He then sent forth a dove, and it returned. In seven days the dove was sent again, and it returned with an oHve leaf. After another seven days he sent forth the dove again, and it did not return. This is the first record we have of Pigeons being used as messengers. We can learn the following from Scripture, Gen. xv, 9: And he said unto him take an heifer of three years old and a she goat of three years old and a turtle dove and a young pigeon. St. Luke ii, 24: And to offer a sacri- fice; a pair of turtle doves and two young pigeons. Lev. i, 14: And if the burnt sacrifice for his offer to the Lord be of fowls he shall bring his offering of turtle doves or young pigeons. Hence we can take from this that where fowls are men- tioned for food it also includes doves and pigeons, hence for ages squabs have always been considered a staple article of food, and also an article that was sold as a food ages ago. St. John ii, 4: And found in the Temple those that sold oxen and sheep and doves. This portion of Scripture leads us to believe that pigeons were kept by the natives and taken to the markets to sell. Of the countless varieties of pigeons we have to-day nearly 150 varieties, all originated, according to Darwin, from the Blue Rock Dove, a descendant of the original dove that Noah left fly from the ark and returned with the olive branch. The leading- breeds are the Jacobin, Fan-Tail, Duchess, Tumblers, Turbits, Owls, Barbs, Trumpeters, Nuns, Archangels, Swallows, Car- riers, Satinettes, Dragoons, Show, Homer, Shields. The First Steps in Squab Culture. Webster tells us that a squab is a young pigeon or dove. Of course there are different kinds of squabs, so far as quality is concerned, and quality governs the price the same as any other business. It is the "quality" kind that we wish to talk about here. No doubt many pigeon breeders have never seen a good marketable squab, and it is for this class of readers that this article is prepared. I would not advise an inexperienced person to invest all in the pigeon business. To do so would be throwing good money away, for this business, like any other, must be learned, and it is the little details and thorough knowledge that spell success. In the first place, secure all the knowledge you can concerning the business, and instead of starting with fifty pairs of birds start with ten and learn to handle them successfully. Increase your flock according- to the increase of your knowledge. I would not go to the expense of erecting a costly building if I had an old building or part of one that could be utilized to make the start. In arranging the building be sure it is so that the morn- ing and noonday sunshine is on the loft. Sunshine and fresh air go a long way toward success. Have the building thoroughl}^ whitewashed, and it is well to mix a little carbolic acid in the lime. This is an excellent An Up-to-date Building. preventative against mites and helps to ward off disease. You can arrange small boxes not less than 12x12 throughout the building and provide two boxes for each pair of birds. Guard against rats and make every effort to make the loft rat-proof. Construct your outside fly according to circumstances. It need not be over 8 feet high and other dimensions according to location and the number of birds. For the beginner the large squab breeding homer is what you want. Do not buy bargain lots, as they are generalh' old, worn-out birds, and you can make up your mind that something is wrong or they would not be lO sold at a sacrifice. Place your order with a reliable party and good goods can be secured for little money. Insist on mated birds about two years old and not over three, and good stock can be secured at $1.50 and $2.00 per pair. Only good, sound, well seasoned grain should be fed to the old birds. Furnish the old birds the proper rations, along with grit, charcoal, lime, sand and salt, and they will produce the quality kind of squabs. One of the most important things is the banding and keep- ing an accurate record of your flock, and this can be easily done by getting a small blank book and noting the numbers of the birds. For example : 121 R. Ch. C. 140 B. Ch. H. The 121 R. Ch. C. means the l^ird with band No. 121 is a red checkered cock bird, and is mated to bird with band No. 140, blue checkered hen. You can then leave blank spaces after this entry to keep record of this pair of birds for one year, or as long as you like. You will find this record a good one to begin with and where the number of birds is not too great to demand a shorter system. Number your nest boxes from one up to the amount of nests you have in the loft. Keep a supply of tobacco stems in the loft for the birds to build their nests in. This makes an excellent nesting material, and no lice or mites will bother the squabs when it is used. Pure, fresh, clear water is half the battle, and have their drinking can so arranged that the birds cannot bathe in it. Education — Value of Details and the Points That Count in the Squab Business. The squab industry of this country represents many thous- ands of dollars, and many thousands of dollars have been lost from lack of education — not knowing the details and careless- ness in attending promptly to the points that count. Fortu- nately, the squal) industry as a business is now conducted on a safe and sane basis, and those people who were led by misguid- ing literature to believe that there is a fortune in squabs and. invested their all, found out that the pigeon business must be learned the same as any other. These are the people that have dropped out of the business by disposing of their stock by time and the shooting match, and witli the passing away of this worth- less stock the market has been steady, and those who started in the proper way and were not afraid of work and hung on are now conducting a successful and profitable business. As I view the future and catch a glimpse of this great and growing industry, I am firm in the belief that it offers almost as good an opportunity to earn money and have a business of your own as anything you may take up, but you must work hard and Almost Readv for Market. work long, just the same as you would have to do in any other business. Raising scjuabs for market is not a new venture, for even Scripture (|uotes where they were sold in the market places. It is also one of the most fascinating and profitable occupations a man or woman can engage in, the work being to a very large extent light. TOr this reason many have engaged in it whose health would not permit inside work. It is not by any means a get-rich-(|uick occupation, but if it is conducted on business principles will return a handsome per cent, on the money 12 invested. The prices on squabs fluctuate nearly as much as on poultry, and squabs are fast taking the place of young chickens. For the amount invested they pay better than poultry, with less space used and less expensive buildings. There are no incuba- tors and brooders to tend, no little ones for the cats to make a meal on, no feeding of chicks. The parent birds attend to every detail in incubation and brooding, and in four weeks you have the finished product, ready for market. The owner has the birds under his constant care and observation, and the more attention given to the birds as their habits are learned the The Proper Way of Holding a Pigeon. greater the profits. Perhaps the reader is not aware that the eggs of pigeons hatch sooner than any other domestic bird, requiring 18 days, while it requires 21 days for hen eggs, 26 days for guinea eggs, 29 days for ducks, turkeys, geese, and pea fowls 30 days. If you have bred any of the above, count the time it takes to hatch the eggs and the time, feed and attention it re- quires to rear them to market size, and then consider that 48 days after the pigeon lays its eggs the squab is ready for the market. The demand for squabs will increase, as we now find them 13 on the menus of all the leading hotels and restaurants, and people who never knew what a squab was a few years ago are now paying anywhere from 75 cents to $1.50 for an order of squabs. One thing that will cause an increase in the demand for squabs is the scarcity of game and the stringent laws that forbid it to be sold, and the supply and demand will regulate the ]-)rice of squabs in the future. One thing sure is that the business cannot be conducted unless you apply strict business principles and keep a strict account of each pair of working birds, as some birds produce more and ])ettcr squabs than others. The ones that are not paying soon eat up the profit of the workers. Hence it is necessary to know the birds that are making you money and retain their ])rogeny for the enlargement of your flock and to take the place of the slow workers that do not come up to your ideal. We all must agree that time is money, and time spent in hunting a hatchet, shovel or scoop is lost; hence the advantage of having a place for everything. One of the main points in producing the best possible re- sults is regularity in attending to your birds. You must re- member that pigeons are intelligent creatures, and will very soon learn to know when to expect you to attend to their wants. Have a regular time to attend to every detail. Do not make any unnecessary noise. Teach the birds to know you and you will soon have them to fly on your shoulder and have a happy and contented lot of birds. System means everything, and with- out it and not living up to it means failure. If the proper start is made with good birds they should give you a net annual profit of $1.50 to $1.75 per pair. The squab business has an advantage over any other business, for in other lines it keeps a man's brain in a constant whirl thinking and planning in order that he can compete with his competitors, thus requiring a modern busi- ness training. Squab raising does not require a course in a business college to be successful. Its main requirements are a careful study of the requirements of your birds, studying their every need and a time and a system to do the things that must be done. Another very important point is the finding of a market where you can get the best returns for your goods, and last, but not least of the points that count, is to make up your mind to work and to know not what the word failure means. Let the stumbling blocks that you encounter to-day be stepping stones to use in broadening your business and combat the difficult problems that are bound to arise. Location for Breeding Houses. A sandy soil is best upon which to build a pigeon house, as it absorbs moisture and dries off very quickly. The land should slope a little so as to drain the water during rain and keep the floors from getting damp. Only a slight elevation is necessary to keep the under part of the building pure and sani- tary. Dampness causes and aggravates a host of diseases, such Arrangement of Nests. as canker, diarrhoea, etc. Success with a pigeon house built without a good substantial floor is doubtful. Always have the buildings at least six inches from the ground, so as to allow a free current of air to circulate, in order to dry out the dampness and rain water quickly. A southern exposure must be preserved, for a building thus located allows the sun to shine upon it and mto it from early morning till late in the afternoon. Sunlight kills the disease germs, and if a building is so built towards the south it will be many degrees warmer in winter than one built in any other exposure. To add to the comfort and safety of the birds it will be found excellent to reduce the temperature in 15 summer if a row of shade trees be planted in front of them. They will also be advantageous in keeping the drinkms water cool, for the sun's rays soon make water warm and unfit for the birds to drink in a very short time. Neatness of a building costs but little, so I would advise having them whitewashed at least every spring. Breeding Lofts. The building should be built in such a way that an exten- sion could be added if needed. I will give the reader an idea how to construct a building 32 feet in length, 10 feet in width, 7 feet high in the rear and 9 feet high in front. Sixteen-foot boards should be used, so as not to allow much waste. This building can be extended any desired length. The illustrations on opposite and following pages give a view of houses, each of which are almost 100 feet in length. For making the frame- work- 3x4 hemlock scantling should be used, and for the joists and rafters 2x4 will answer. Both rafters and joists should not be over 2 feet apart. The sides of the building and ends should be stripped with wide laths (upon the outside) to prevent cold and draughts to enter in winter. The roof should be of hemlock boards a foot wide, over which tack three-ply felt roofing. This sort of roofing will last many years under favorable conditions, and it should be tarred with slag cement (a preparation espe- ciallv prepared for it) once or twice a year. I find this roof far better than slate, which is entirely too heatening in summer. Slate retains the heat much longer than felt. Shingles, if they are preferred, can be used and answer far better than either of the above, but the cost is somewhat of a hindrance. An opening should be left in the front and back of each pen, near the roof, to allow ventilation; in fact, between each rafter is better, for this will allow the heat which accumulates in summer to be carried off. In winter these openings should all be closed up. Very little ventilation is needed in winter. In each pen a win- dow at least 2x3 should be put midway from the f^oor to the roof. A double sash will be found better, although one is suffi- cient. These windows should be made so as to be easily «ilid back when required on the inside. Some every large squab raisers have an attachment arranged to their windows, so that by simply turning a crank all are opened or closed at the same 1 6 time, saving considerable trouble in going through the building and closing each one separately. This method is excellent to shut windows quickly when a shower arrives suddenly in sum- mer. On the inside of the building before any nest boxes, etc., are buift, tack tar paper one-ply on all sides. This makes the building considerably warmer in winter and prevents vermin in the summer. Some tack the paper on the outside, but this must be replaced with new every year, where if it were placed upon the inside it will last for years. The roof must have the thickest of felt (three-ply). To preserve this well so it will last for many years, coat with tar or slag cement at least once each year. While applying the tar or cement, before it has become dry upon the roof, throw pewter sand or small pebbles upon it. This renders it tough and hard, and even hail cannot do much damage to it. Without the sand or pebbles the cement should be applied every spring and fall. This must be done when the sun i.=; shining warm, for it will then run easier and be far easier to apply. Interior Construction of a Building. The interior should be divided into compartments 8 or 10 feet wide, and the partitions can be made of laths or wire net- ting. At the floor a 12-inch board should be used for two rea- sons : it keeps the dirt in its own pen and prevents the birds from fighting. A slide-door should be made in each partition. By doing this it will not be necessary to have an alleyway through the building. However, an alleyway is very convenient when it comes to cleaning the coops and attending the birds. The first pen should be boarded up tight and kept for a store room, and can also be fitted up for killing and shipping room. Each compartment should have a window, and at the side of each window two holes 4 by 5 should be made to be used by the birds in winter when the windows are closed. The perches should be along the side of a building, and as many perches as there are cocks in the pen should be used. By having their perches the cock birds will not be compelled to roost on the nests. The nests should be made along the side and two nests provided for every working pair. The nests can be made of any cheap material, and should be not less than 18 inches in length, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. Nail a 3-inch strip aloiio- Uie front of the nest to keep the eg^s and youngsters from falling out. Nest pans arc not necessary, and this is all that is required in the way of nests, excepting a 6-inch strip nailed upright between each section to prevent fighting from one nest to another. Evil results come from over-crowding, and twenty-five pairs is about right for the sized compartment de- scribed here. Nests should be cleaned after each pair is taken out and air-slacked lime sprinkled into them. This will keep it sweet and clean and prevent lice and mites as well as worms. The most important part of a pigeon loft is the floor, and here the best of tongued and grooved boards should be used to prevent dampness, and many claim it is profit- Fancy Pigeon House and Aviary able to make the floor 'rat-proof. An outside fly is necessary, and the birds must be on the ground. Failure to furnish the necessary fly means failure in the pigeon business. Any old barn or wagon shed can be used to good advantage in raising squabs or fancy stock if the outside fly is provided. How to Mate. Where the object in mating is for squabs for market alone it is not necessary to mate each pair separately, as fanciers do when they wish to keep a strain pure. When fancy birds are mated it would be folly for any one to mate ones of different 2 color, diflferent varieties, etc., but for squab raising it makes no difference whether a Duchess is mated to an Antwerp, or a Homer to a common bird, the main object being a good sized squab and white color when dressed. It would be best policy, however, to mate Homers to Homers, etc. Pigeons, as a rule, will pick their own mates, so if thirty cocks and thirty hens be left together in a pen, if all are healthy and vigorous, each will have its mate before a week passes. The Nest Pan or Nappie. Birds mated this way are usually mated for life, or until one or the other dies. The main point in mating is to be sure the birds are well and hearty, of same age (one or two years) and equally divided, i. e., equal number cocks and hens. Some pigeon men take the trouble to mate each pair separately. This is labor unnecessary. They use a box about 4 feet in length with a tight partition in the center, and place a cock in one side, a hen in the other. They leave them in the box to talk it all over for a week 19 or so, after which they remove the partition, and they usually mate up. It will be seen where many pairs are larb is the head ; to get the eye wattles large enough that it cannot 46 see ahead or behind, thus making it an easy prey to its enemies. They are bred in different colors, reds, blacks and yellows being the most popular. The English Carriers. The English Carrier is oft times called the "King of Pigeons" and is largely bred not only in the United States but throughout civilization. They are bred in nearly all colors to a high state of perfection. It is a highly intelligent bird with bright eyes, alert and upright carriage, large eye ceres and prom- inent wattles. In the past the different breeders seemed to give all their attention in perfecting the head points, thus sacrificing color and other qualities, but this folly seems to be past and now color and carriage are receiving attention with the result of a more uniform type as well as a more beautiful bird. The Antwerp. The Antwerp is largely used as a squab raiser and is identi- cal with the Homer except in beak and eye, and the writer is safe in saying that the Antwerps and Homers outnumber all other varieties of pigeons combined. On our large pigeon farms 47 48 Antwerps, Homers and their crosses are bred by the thousands, and many thousands of pairs of squal)s find their way to city markets and command the highest prices. It is a very hearty bird, prolific breeder, and stands confinement well Dragoons. Dragoons alwa3's command admiration whenever they are seen, whether it be in the show room or in the loft. As a cross in making squab raisers they have no superior, but have not been as extensively used as some of the other varieties on ac- count of their price, as good quality in Dragoons comes high, and it is claimed the demand is greater than the supply. They are hardy and prolific breeders, stand confinement well. In many respects, as will be noticed by the illustration, they resemble the Antwerp. They are bred in Blues, Grizzles, Blacks, Whites, Dunns, Silvers, Yellows and Chequers. 50 Trumpeters. The Trumpeters are a most peculiar and interesting variety. They were first imported into the United States about 1875. They are natives of Asia, where they are bred in the Mosques by the priests. They are bred in Blacks, Whites, Chequers and Mottles. They should stand low in the legs, very heavily feath- ered, well spread clear to the toenails. The main features are the rose and shell. The rose should be large, round, smooth and even, with a nice droop covering the beak and eyes, shell stand- ing well up at back and curved forward, extending from eye to eye. One of the peculiarities of the Trumpetors is the coo, and if once heard it is seldom forgotten, and it is possibly from this that they derived their name. Tumblers. Pigeons have been kept both for fancy and utility for ages. The Romans were ardent fanciers of this beautiful bird, and the talk at the Forum as frequently dwelt upon the pigeon as it did upon the Senator. Pigeon fanciers are like poets, "born not made." This trait 5» in an individual manifests itself early and persists late. It is a magpie touch that ])laccs the urchin and the sat^e in the same class. Certainly no fancy holds out the tenijjtation that this one does. The possibilities are so p;reat. The whims of the most fastidious can find satisfaction in the piL;eon. 'Jliis bird is pro- duced in most every conceivable sha])e and color. The delicate tints and ])enciling of their feathers seem hardly to be a part of a living- bird. When one considers that these beautiful speci- mens of avian perfection evoluted from the aborii^ines, the Rock Doves, \cry evident is it then the class of men that labored to brint; about this change. No other fancy can boast of so many artistic and intelligent sympathizers as this one, for the simple reason that intelligence is necessary to produce and maintain, and an artistic temperament is required to appreciate the ele- gance thereof. Not only does the pigeon supply interesting combinations of color and shape, but action as well, viz., the lordly Pouter with his globe or the nervous Fantail wath her toe-dance. But to me that sturdy little acrobat, the Tumbler, appeals most strongly. While this bird is produced in more colors and varied other morphological characteristics than we find in any other breed, his aerial gymnastics completely eclipse the tame demon- .stration of the Pouter, the Fan, or any other performing pigeon. 52 The Tumbler is bred in all the usual colors of pigeons, i. e , white, black, red, yellow, dun, silver, blue bar, saddle, also bald head, rose-wing, white-side, badge, beard, etc. He may be either long-faced or of the short-beaked variety ; clean-legged, stocking-legged, or muffed, and many pleasing combinations of the foregoing colors and other characteristics. As a matter of fact, you are aware that this bird turns backward somersaults, hence the name Tumbler. The mode and surroundings in which he chooi-es to perform this feat divides his family into still fur- ther sub-divisions, i. e., outside and inside Tumblers. By out- side Tumblers we refer to a bird that files to some height before starting his daring performance. The inside Tumbler is a bird that will turn a somersault near the ground, thus making it pos- sible to do so within the aviary. This bird is popularly known as the parlor Tumbler. Again the class is divided as to the number of somersaults, for instance, .^ingles, as the word implies, a bird that turns a single somersault; doubles, the meaning of which is evident; roller, a performer that Hies to a dizzy height and commences the roll, continuing same until he comes near to or as indeed is frecjueritly the case, in actual contact with the ground or build- ings. In some instances making it hazardous to allow such a s;:ecimen to perform. This is l:)y no means the limit of the classifications of this most interesting bird, but it will suffice to recall to the mind of the reader the truly wide possibilities in breeding a pigeon of so (li^'elsc characteristics. Another very strong point in favor of the Tumlder .is his remarkable vitality. The past winter was characterized l)y much snow. It was necessary to house Ban- tams, and indeed larger poultry, quite frequently for weeks at a time; howe^■er. this seemed quite superfluous in the case of the Tumbler. A number of the clean-legged variety which the author alloAved to fly at liberty during this ti-me would, with im- punitv, walk about on the snow, the temperature near zero, flip- ping the dry ;'.now first one way and then the other in search of hemp seed to.-sed to them for the purpose of observing their actions. 1 have yet to see the first pair of Tumblers that are not good feeders, and most of them are excellent feeders, rearing their young without any trouble whatsoever. This is a very essential 53 (|tiaHfication which is frequently lacking in otlier fancy breeds. 1 know quite a few fanciers who make it a routine ])ractice to shift certain of tlieir fancy pigeon em't^s to birds of known feeditig ability. This, to say tlie least, is confusiui^ and e.\])ensi\e, neces- sitating- the su.staining of a surplus amount of stock, and perhaps The Pouter. The Pride of the Show Room. these foster parents are not so obliging as to set about the task of incubation at the proper time, another source of annoyance. When a fancier has spent much time and money to produce a pair of birds which he thinks will breed just the progeny he wants, how eagerly he watches the eggs, and when pipped he knows there is a winner in each shell. A few days later he finds 54 his winners mashed flat as a flitter — dead, starved. Then it is he realizes that the parent birds are no feeders, and if he expects any young from them it must be reared by other birds. With Tumblers this objectionable feature is obviated. To summarize, the hardy characteristics and ample feeding proclivities of the Tumbler recommend him and assure success to the amateur breeder as well as the veteran. His neat, com- pact bill, grand head and eye, dainty coloring and pleasing com- binations of same and other bodily characteristics appeal to the artistic, while his marvelous acrobatic achievements champion him the prince of entertainers. The English Turbit. Too much cannot be said of the English Turbit, the aristo- crat of the pigeon family, which has always kept a strong hold on the fancier who has an eye for the beautiful, for surely no other variety possesses so much real beauty as is combined in a thoroughbred Turbit. Their beautiful wing color, their large, appealing eyes and haughty carriage are a delight to all lovers of birds, and as a foundling the Turbit has no equal among birds, for they are docile by nature, can be picked up anywhere in the loft if gently treated, and like to trass and strut and be played with, and I have had birds so tame that they would light on me and follow me around the loft eating from my hand. You may ask: "What are they good for?" and if you do not like pets I will answer that they are good for nothing. They will get you out of bed a little earlier to give them a little atten- tion, and you will fuss with therri noon and evening, which is just what you need to drive dull care away. If you have never kept pigeons, I'd advise you to try it, but do not start with a good pair of Turbits. Get a cheap pair, for it will take you a season to learn even the A B C of Turbit breeding, and I'd hate to see a good pair used for trial and you lose them and your money. The essentials are a dry place to keep them, plenty of fresh air and fresh water, no draughts, good, clean food and grit and care as to lice and rats. Keep them hungry and active. No variety of pigeons command higher prices than a good, thoroughbred Turbit, and winners at large shows have sold for 55 from $200 to $300 each, and a pair of breeders that will not com- mand $25 are likely to be ordinary birds. Learn first to fancy the Turbit, then learn to care for them successfully and raise the young, then buy one or two good pair in preference to ten ordinary pair, and with intelligent mating you will have good results and be successful. The accompanying cut of some of my birds and a cut of an English hen will give you some idea of their beauty, and you may conclude for yourself whether you like the English or home- grown the best. England has years of advantage over us in breeding this handsome bird, but many a good one has been brought here, and man}- good birds are raised in this country t(D-day, but 'rnr])ils arc not as generally raised here as in Eng- Englisli 'l\irl)il. land for some reason or other, and the breeders of strictly high- class blue-blood Turbits in this country to-day can be counted on your fingers. The fancier who will take up the I'urbit and hold to his oars until he reaches tlie headwaters of Turbit possibilities will have a name, for men like Kline, Lenhart, Ullrich, Orr, Parson Feather, Hart, McTntyre and others will pass down in the his- tory of the American advancement of this, my favorite bird. The Carneaux. I have been asked to write an article on pigeons, especially about Carneaux, which are my favorite birds. I want to speak of Carneaux as a squab breeder. From ray 56 point of view the Carneaux stands prominently at the head for producing squabs of large size, and plenty of them. It is not uncommon for a pair of good Carneaux to raise from eight to eleven pairs of squabs in a year, and in size weigh- ing from 10 to 14 pounds to the dozen dressed. What more can anybody want in squab breeding birds. I have birds which are doing this for me at present. You can get your crosses, such as Runt Homer or Runt Maltese, etc., but I would like somebody to show me a bunch of good size coming up to the Carneaux as to number of squabs produced each year. Not all Carneaux are doing this, but if you get the right kind of stock you will have no trouble to make the average quoted.. I know of a certain breeder who has tried Carneaux and calls them a rank failure. Why? Because he got stung in buying his stock, having paid a very low price for them. Now he is condemning Carneaux. He bought Carneaux for $1 a pair. He has what I call "culls." Somebody had tried them before he got them and found them wanting, therefore he disposed of them for whatever he could get. I know of birds going the rounds from breeder to dealer, from dealer to breeder indefinitely. It is very unfortunate that we have so much of this business going on in pigeons. This is done in all kinds of pigeons, more so in Homers and their crosses than any other birds on account of their being- more plentiful than Carneaux. I had an experience several years ago in Carneaux which would almost have disgusted anybody just starting in with Car- neaux. I bought several pairs of solid red Carneaux from a breeder in New Jersey, who was advertising extensively and boasted to be a responsible party. I received the birds ; they succeeded in raising one pair of squabs a piece for me, then would not do anything for a long time, then started again laying eggs and hatching young ones. But these always died in from one to two weeks. I wrote to the party stating they could not accomplish anything. He replied that since I did not return birds right away he could do nothing for me ; I would have to run chances with them as well as he. Now these birds were guaranteed to give satisfaction as I had paid a good stiff price for them, so you can see we have cheats in the pigeon business as well as any other business. I, however, was not to be thrown down so easily. I gave these birds to a man who makes his living as a squab breeder, to see 57 what he couhl do with them. His experience was identically the same as mine. Now you may ask, what was the trouble that they laved and hatched and raised them to over two weeks old. and then died? Here, my dear reader, is the answer in a nut- shell. Inbreedin.i^! After I turned these birds over to the squab breeder 1 sent to another breeder for some ^.^ood tested breeders; and right here let me tell you I got them all right, coming up to my ideals in every way. So be careful with whom you place your orders for birds, as all the first part of your success dei)ends on getting the right kind of stock to begin with; that is why so many have failed in the scpiab business, and more are doing so constantly. The man who has been successful enough to get together one or two thousand pairs of good Carneaux does not need to care much which way the wind blows, as he is fixed in getting a good living and money besides. There are many men to-day who can show a good bank account made from scjuab raising, for one man can attend to at least 1.000 pairs of [ligeons, doing all work except plucking and killing or dressing them for market. V( u may say that is right, but how about disease. Well, let me tell you; you will have very little disease among pigeons properly housed and cared for. being very careful as to feeding only good sound grain and a variety of it. White wheat t)r mu.^ty wheat has carried ofif more pigeons than almost anything else. This causes sour crop, vomiting, diarrhea and death in very short order. Moreover, if stock is raised from birtls that have canker they will throw weaklings which are almost sure to die sooner or later from some disease ; therefore, the best remedy for birds cankering their young is the hatchet. Never raise a young pigeon from stock which is diseased in any way. Then you can make a success out of the pigeon business. I had something to happen to me just lately with a hen pigeon. She raised three pair of young squabs, then went into moult and never laid another egg after that. The cock bird was driving her all the time until she got on the nest and hatched for about four months, never laying any eggs. I took a pair of eggs and put them under her. She was hatching all right, looked healthy, never was droopy; hatche