i Wimm iiiiiii' mm.. . iili Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 with funding from Tine Library of Congress littp://www.archive.org/details/lioosierinlT-onduraOOmorl ! 3 DORADO PUBLISHING CO., INDIANAPOLIS, IND. '^ad COPY, 1898* J^ Jrfc Sn ^onduraSy ^y J^lbert 9?forlan. ^ttVi ILLUSTRATED. ;»s^;» oV *Doracio ^ublishiny Compani/, yndt'anapoit'Sj ynd. 2090^ COPYRIGHT 1897, BY ALBERT MORLAN. Y\^t)^' ^r^r CONTKNTS, CHAPTER I. how it came to pass and other matters pertaining to the start. Bewze. — Inhabitants and history 5 /'/ CHAPTER II. AT THE "American hotel"— a carib village, historical sketch oi? this strange people — A EUNERAL — SAIL ON THE RiO DULCE 27 CHAPTER III. Something about bananas — arrive at Puerto Cortez— touch of the chills — model hotel 49 CHAPTER IV. A CRUISE ALONG THE NORTH COAST OP HONDURAS— VISIT TRUXILLO — LANDING — STUDY A WATERSPOUT — WaLKER THE FILIBUSTER- SPAN- ISH CRUELTY AND ENGLISH PERFIDY ": 67 CHAPTER V. Visit lhe Bay Islands, Bonacca, Ruatan, Utilla— night of storm BACK at the port 85 CHAPTER VI. GrEAT trans-continental railroad— flying trip ozer the same — TOWN OF San Pedro — small earthquake — waiting 99 CHAPTER VII. Services of Mo.ses and Aaron secured— final arrangements for T"E OVERLAND TRIP— the START— AMONG THE MOUNTAINS — SaNTA CRUZE and its MINES — PRIMITIVE VILLAGES — BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, 111 CHAPTER VIII. a pleasant surprise— colines and a wedding — drink the bride's health and loose our own — beautiful days on the road — Santa Barbara — home of the president —loss of Moses and Aaron 127 CHAPTER IX. From Santa Barbara to the capitol, with .some digressions 143 CHAPTER X. Tegucigalpa — interview with the president — off for the coast — arrive at Amapala 165 CHAPTER XI. City of Leon — an honest cabman — Momotombo — storm on Lake Managua — arrive at the capitol^its industries 181 CHAPTER XII. City of Grenada— Hotel De Los Leons 197 Preface* It was the writers intention to impose this work on the public -without the formality of a preface'. It seemed bad enough as it was, but certain critical friends declared it would never do, "You must offer some excuse," they insisted, "for writing a book at all, the people have not asked for it and it is no more than right they should have an explanation of the motive that prompted so reckless an undertaking." I, therefore, began looking over a lot of books, ancient and modern, hoping to find something to copy and save any further trouble, but when I saw that most writers devoted the space under this heading to giving credit to certain other writers whose works they had filched to produce their own, I said, " I'll never do it." The reader may pick out the stolen passages himself, and if his conscience is too sensitive to allow him to retain them— why, he can return them to their respective owners. I had enough trouble to steal them, and besides I can't remember now just where they belong, so if the dear reader can construe this into an apology, and feels any better satisfied thereby, the writer is very glad indeed i and feels more than paid for the exertion it has cost. As for a motive, I had absolutely none, beyond the sordid one, of selling you a copy, which having accomplished, I wish to thank you personally for your contribution and beg to remain. Yours very truly, Indianapolis, Ind. ThS Author. / ^ A Hoosier in Honduras* CHAPTER I. HOW IT CAMK TO PASS AND OTHER MATTERS PERTAINING TO THE START — BEIvIZE : INHABITANTS AND HISTORY. One bleak winter day the writer conceived the brilliant idea of escaping cold blasts and gas bilk by taking an excursion tropic- ward, while pondering on the subject the postman appeared with a letter, which upon examination pi^v^ed an invitation to join a trading expedition to the interior of Honduras, with side trips into Gautemala and Nicaragua, to say nothing of a coast wise pilgrim- age which was also to include the Bay Islands. Some passages in this brief communication fired the immagination, and the > outh- ful longing to visit the scenes of romantic adventure recorded by the followers of Columbus, Cortez, Balboa and other equally daring albeit, reckless characters, was at once revived. Other sentences bordered on the sentimental, for the letter was from an old friend, and if he occasionally approached the poetical form of expression he was certainly to be excused. Even the practical business man, will sometimes forget himself, so in this instance memories of child- ish exploits and asperations were vividly recalled. "Together we will sail the 'sunny summer seas' that we used to dream about ; climb gold veined mountains, explore mahogany forests, examine volcanoes, study earthquakes" — but enough — the concluding lines seemed to settle the matter" I await your letter of acceptance," said he, "and have quite decided not to listen to any excuses — come. ' ' Outside the air was thick with falling snow, and huge icicles hung from the eaves. The bare branches of an old cherry tree lashed the side of the house in remembrance of some old grudge, maybe — or perhaps it was simply because the furious blast aroused a spirit of animosity which was in a measure appeased by thrash- ing the only object within reach. 6 A HoosiER IN Honduras. A few of the nearest houses could be seen, and these but dimly through the ever increasing storm. The street with its long rows of telephone poles and trolley supports was swallowed up in a strange white gloom. From time to time, the dim outline of some venturesome pedestrian would appear for an instant before the win- dow, struggling bravely with the tempest, the next moment they were swept from view. The heavy trucks and express wagons that usually filled the air with their din, now stole by as silent as a funeral train, the drivers looking like sheeted ghosts who had somehow escaped the grip of death and returned to their duty, sil- ent and sad, and w^hite as the street below. Only the voice of the wind was heard as it rattled the windows and shook the doors, now shrieking with rage, now moaning in despair to find every opening stoutly locked against it — such was the day when the shivering carrier, half blinded by the storm, brought the brief message referred to. According to the terms of the invitation, there seemed but one thing to do, — therefore a letter of acceptance was penned and posted. — In about two weeks came the reply. He now wrote more fully, even enclosing a catalogue of articles necessary to the com- fort of travelers in a tropical wilderness, among which were "slickers" to protect us from the storms on the mountains, saddles, blankets, leggings, spurs, hammocks, a chest of medicine, a small selection of books, a bundle of newspapers, a great variety of canned goods, with a lot of "cordials" put up in large long-necked bottles, these were only to be used in cases of emergency, — of course. The list also included a stock of rubber goods to protect us from dampness when sailing those "Sunny Summer Seas" which he now admitted became quite rough at times when teased by the vagrant winds that loaf around in those latitudes. I learned later that my correspondent was a very careful, con- servative writer, and his intimations regarding the weather were in no wise exaggerated, in fact he might have drawn a much more vivid picture of those laughing waves and rollicking winds and still left a wide margin for my imagination to sketch in, for I had no conception of the force of the tornadoes, cyclones and hurri- canes that occanionally sweep across the otherwise calm surface of the Carribean Sea. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 7 This letter was followed by another, a few days later with fuller information, and an additional list of "necessaries" which included such trifles as thread, needles, pins, buttons, cork-screws, knives, forks, cups and a hundred other articles that are called for every day in civilized life, but which we are so accustomed to that we are quite unconscious of their usefulness — however, a couple of weeks busy preparation saw the work completed, and, one cold, clear morning I took the train amid huge drifts of snow. Forty hours lattfer found us walking between walls of roses, in the city of New Orleans, where we spent a few days looking over this, the quainest city in the United States. We explored the French quarter with its famous market, the ancient cathedral, Jackson's Park, the old slave market, the warfs, the large, elegant stores, which line Canal Street, from which the canal has disappeared and its place taken by a street railway, over whose tracks small, uncomfortable cars are drawn by unwilling mules, whose eccentric dispositions keep the driver in a state of uncertain expectancy that has driven some to suicide and others to drink. After having visited the Spanish fort, the cemetaries and the famous "shell roads," which by the way are sadly out of repair, we sought the office of the Machecka Bros. , 129 Decatur street and purchased tickets for Belize and shortly took possession of our quarters on board the "Break-water," Captain C.W. Clark commanding; a little over three days — or to be more accurate, a little less than four days sailing brought us within sight of the pretty little city of Belize, which is the capital of British Honduras, the largest and most important port on the eastern coast of Central America. The approach to this place is interesting from the fact that it was for many 5^ears the rendezvous of an organized band of pirates, who practically ruled the Western Seas for a generation or so in the seventeenth cen- tury. Each wooded island and rocky "Spit" has its legends of buried treasures, which, however, is so carefully guarded by the . Spirits of the departed, or was so cleverly hidden, that no one has ever been able to locate a single "cache," although we read almost every week of wonderful "finds" of this character, investigation invaribly proved the story to be, either a newspaper hoax cut out of the whole cloth, or the gradual accumulation of gossip, growing out of some insignificant circumstance, such as the discovery of a fragment of ancient crockery or other ship's stores which had been A HoosiER IN Honduras. HON. A. E. MORLAN, U. S. CONSUI^, PORT OF BELlEZ. U. S. CONSULATE. A HoosiBR IN Honduras. 9 thrown on shore after some wreck. I doubt if there is a single authentic case on record where treasure in any appreciable quan- tity has been found — however, each year brings fresh victims from all parts of the world, every one of whom feel confident they have the "key" to these m5'Sterious deposits of wealth, and after spending all the money they possess, return to their respective homes, sad- der and poorer, possibly wiser. They come from everywhere armed with "divining rods," "witches wands," "magnetic indica- tors," and a Hundred other devices invented by the ingenious Yan- kee, to meet the demands of these fortune seeking hordes, which seem to increase rather than diminish, with the passing years. Indeed, so great has been the rush of treasure hunters, during the last decade, the government has taken advantage of the craze and now issues a regular licence or "privilege" which has proved quite a source of revenue. The shrewd official who drew up this docu- ment, inserted a clause providing that a certain proportion of the wealth recovered shall become the property of the crown, or words to that effect, thus conveying the impression that the government indorses the absurd tales concerning the hidden spoils of the ancient but indiscreet buccaneer. The fact is, the old pirates of the seventeeth century were not such fools as to bury their hard-earned wealth where they could not find it when wanted, and there is probably very little founda- tion for the extravagant yarns that have been handed down from generation to generation, acquiring new and startling features from time to time at the hands of those who feed their imagination on these grotesque and improbable traditions. Many practical jokes have been perpetrated on the credulous cranks who pass their lives dreaming of the wealth that might have been honestly acquired, perhaps, by the systematic saving of the depised penny. As has been stated, many practical jokes are played on these unsuspecting dreamers, but so eager and blind are they, as a rule, that the most transparent counterfeit passes without question. Most of these fairy tales have their origin in the fertile brain of some Jack Tar of whose ingenuity and industry, in the matter of romancing, all the world knows. Here is a specimen: Jim Iv , second mate of the good ship B , who had been born on the water and who had, to use his own expression, never been out of his "mother's lap" in all the fifty-five years of 10 A HoosiER IN Honduras. his eventful life, was one of those whose chief delight consisted in catering to the abnormal appetites of these seekers after lost treas- ures, and his leisure hours were mainly devoted to the construction of charts, showing the exact location of the hidden wealth, enter- ing into all the details with a minuteness that left the possessor no room to doubt his ability to go right to the spot and dig it up. In some of these, a very careful invoice of the money and valuables was given showing precisely where each lot was located — all by characters or ciphers, no words being used. These charts would sometimes turn up at an auction in I^on- don, or Paris, or perhaps would be discovered in the chest of a dead seaman, or some junk shop, or, in some instances, they were cast adrift to be picked up on the shores of one of the numerous cays in the neighborhood, but wherever they appeared they aroused the enthusiasm of the idle dreamers, and were welcomed bj'- the world at large, for to tell the truth, there are few so practical that stories of hidden millions will not for a moment at least find interest in the tale, no matter how improbable it may be. The following cut is a fac-simile of one of these bogus charts, and shows on what dubious foundations these collosal structures of the imagination often rest, and on what flimsy pretexts, men, apparently sane, in other matters, will leave home and business, often investing large sums in the venture and not infrequently completing the sacrifice with their lives, as did a certain Mr. Horn whose excursions in this romantic field is the excuse for this article with its illustration, and if by its publication some poor dupe is saved the sad experience that is sure to follow adventures of this character, the writer will feel amply rewarded. This ingenious work was executed with great care on a piece of parchment which had been previously prepared by staining to give it the appearance of age. The figures were drawn with a camel hair pencil, the medium used was an indelible ink of light brown color which penetrated the material and could not be erased: THE delusive; chart. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 11 It was some such document that had fallen into the hands of the Mr. Horn aboved referred to, on the head of which he had embarked in the hazardous enterprise which proved so disastrous. The amount of treasure accounted for by the "key", in his posses- sion, was, he declared, about $1,400,000 and he confidently expected to return to the states with this amount in a few weeks at the farthest. How he succeeded will be told in another chapter. To those who care to investigate the subject, the following extract from a recent writer on "Treasure Trove," may prove inter- esting. "According to the laws of England the finder of coin, gold and silver plate or bullion, "providing the same be hidde^i in the earth, is not entitled to the treasure but must give notice to the crown, to whom it belongs. If, however, the treasure is not hidden in and covered up by the earth, it becomes the property of the finder. The various colonies, however, have laws of their own, modified to suit the conditions, for instance, in India the finder holds the entire amount discovered, providing no owner can be found. In case the rightful owner appears the finder is entitled to three-fourths of the amount while the real owner must be satisfied with one-fourth only. However, the government reserves the right to purchase by the payment of one-fifth more than the value of the material." It was Sunday morning bright, calm, beautiful. The view from the deck, as we picked our way slowly and cautiously among the numerous cays and low green islands, was enchanting. In the far distance the white buildings of the city peeped timidly out from between long rows of royal palms, with here and there a clump of cocanut trees, easily distinguishable even at this distance by their long twisted trunks surmounted by a tuft of foiliage that looked almost black when contrasted with the brighter greens of the other vegetation. The immediate foreground was enlivened by a variety of sailing craft, with here and there an English Merchantman lying at anchor rocking gently with the swell of the sea. Occasionally a warning flag, or a bright red buoy, told of hidden rocks. At last we found ourselves fairly within the harbor where we anchored perhaps a half mile from shore. Here we were met by the officials of the Custom House who carefully went through our luggage, but finding nothing of a dangerous nature we were per- mitted to land. As we stepped ashore we were met by a young 12 A HoosiER IN Honduras. mau representing Mr. Christo Hempsted, who with his familj^ was enjoying a \Yeeks outing at one of the numerous resorts within a few hours sail of the cit}-. Through his representative, he begged us to take possession of his house during his absence, which we with characteristic freedom proceeded to do. Within a few min- utes after landing we found ourselves delightfully situated in the comfortable and roomj^ dwelling of our friend and fellow country- man, for Mr. Hemsted although a resident of Belize for more than twenty years, still retains his American citizenship, and withall is one of the best and biggest hearted men in Central America. Here we remained for several days. Meanwhile we accepted a pressing invitation from Mrs. Capt. Biddle, to be present regularly at her table, an invitation that was accepted with cheerful alacrity, and which proved one of thepleas- antest features of our visit, and it is with genuine pleasure that the writer hereby expresses his gratitude to this estimable lady for the many favors shown him during his stay in Belize. The history of the colonly of British Honduras is interesting, from the fact that it is the only Knglish dependency in Central America. The following facts concerning its discovery and subse- quent settlement, are taken from the "British Honduras Almanac," a veritable encyclopedia of information, and which has been issued annually for more than fifty years and is lovingly referred to by Mr. John ly. Stevens in his "Incidents of Travel in Yucatan," etc. A. D. 1839. "This colony is deserving of interest both on account of the romance of its past history and the promise of the importance and commercial success which it at present holds out. Situated as it is between 18 degrees 29 min. 5 sec. and 15 degrees 23 min. 55 sec. North Latitude and between 9 degrees 9 min. 22 sec. and 88 degrees 10 min. West lyongitude, it contains some of the richest and most fer- tile lands on the face of the globe. To it Europe has to look for the greater part of its supplies of mahogany and logwood, the exportation of which is alone sufficient to render it a wealthy and thriving col- ony and in addition to the large interests involved in the supply of these and other valuable woods, there now seems every probability of its becoming of equal importance as a center for the exports for the various fruits which grow so abundantl}^ on the seward slopes of Yucatan. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 13 The climate, though damp and hot, is singularly healthy. Yellow fever and cholera are but rare visitors. Ague and malaria though somewhat more frequent, are by no means as prevalent as might be expected. To the north and south its boundaries are respectively the frontiers of Yucatan and Guatemala, while to the ■east it is bounded by the Bay of Honduras and to the west b}^ a line laid down by the convention with Guatemala in 1859, extend- from the rapids of Gracios A Dios on the river Sarstoon, to Gar- butt's Falls on the Belize river and thence due north to the Mexi- can Frontier. The coast was discovered by Columbus in 1502 when looking for a passage to the China Seas and the interior is the scene, in part at least, of the famous and disastrous marcli of Cor- tez. The greatest length and breadth of the colony are respective!}^ 174 and 68 statute miles, containing with the adjacent cays an area of about 7,562 square miles. The settlement was originally called Belize, ^he name now applied to the capitol only. It is supposed by some that it was originally settled by Buccaniers, who were attracted to the coast by the shelter and safety afforded to them by the extreme difficulty of navigation among the surround- ing cays and who were induced to remain on the dispersion of their main forces with the hope of gaining wealth in a more legitimate manner by cutting the woods of the country, and they were wise in their day, Jtor who, but a lunatic would risk life and limb in the somewhat doubtful business of pliindering an occasional ship when they could, by a few hours labor with a good axe, bring down a fortune of $2,500 to $3,000, for in the middle of the seventeenth century, logwood sold readily for $100 per ton, which has grad- ually fallen until at the present writing the price is only about $6. In 1671 Sir Thomas L-ynch, Govenor of Jamaica, reported to the King that "it increased his Majesty's custom and the national commerce more than any of his Majesty's colonies," showing that Belize was a flourishing and wealthy settlement more than 200 years ago. From that time up to 1798 the territory was the cause of much bitter contention between England and Spain, which occasionally resulted in bloody conflicts. In 1786 England agreed to relinquish the Mosquito Shore in exchange for the privilege of •cutting mahogau}^ and logwood. By this treaty, England promised to abstain from erecting fortifications or other defensive Tivorks, thereby admitting the colony was, in name at least, under 14 A HoosiER IN Honduras. Spanish protection." This was what a Yankee would term a good trade. The Mosquito Shore was a howling wilderness noted only for its scorpions, centipedes and the swarms of those interesting little insects from which it takes its name, while Belize enjoyed a remark- ably salubrious climate for this latitude, besides abounding in those woods that had already proved more profitable than mines of gold or silver. Of course, the Spaniards soon discovered how they had been outwitted and determined to re-possess the valuable claim by force of arms, and to that end assembled a fleet of fifteen vessels with which, on September 10, 1798, they began an attack on the Harbor of Belize and after two days severe fighting were totally defeated in the memorable "Battle of St. Georges' Caye," which event has been celebrated by Mr. Christo Hempstead, the local poet, in the following stiring lines: ST. GEORGKS' CAYE. 'Twas a dark, sultry and warm summers' night, When St. Geoeges' Caye people saw a wonderful sight, A bungay full of Spaniards all armed for a fray, Came sailing from windward, o'er Honduras Bay. CHORUS. Sing to rol ri urol — ri urol ri — a And they drove all those Spaniards so far, far away. Sing tu rol ri urol — ri urol urol ri — a And they made them all scamper from St. Georges' "K." The battle was fierce, and the battle was strong. The ^'Pork and Dough- Boys'" sticks, were both sharp and long, And each hardy "Bayman" grasped one in his hand. Saying we'll "chook" (spear) all those Spaniards the moment they land» REPEAT CHORUS. They "chooked" them, and speared them and drove them like fleas, Right into salt water way up to their knees, Some got to their bungays and poled quick away, Saying — ■'■'Vamonos Compadre" from St Georges' "K." REPEAT CHORUS. The battle now over, a victory hard brought. Each gallant old "Bayman" like the devil had fought, But thus gained their freedom by the sweat of their brow, And that was the end of St. Georges' "K" row. REPEAT CHORUS. The bungay got lost is the general belief, Way out on the "Spit," on a small bit of reef. A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 15 Naught was ever seen of her keelson or keel, And "nary" a Spaniard or General O'Neal. * REPEAT CHORUS. Tune: Wilkins and his Dianah. * " General O'Neal was supposed to be a renegade, who deserted from the "Baymen" and went over to the Spaniards. Thus it was that the settlement became English by right of conquest as well as by convention. ' ' The city of Belize is probably the most cosmopolitan in char- acter of any place in the world of its size. Its population of eight or ten thousand includes citizens of England, France, Spain, Ger- many, Italy, Africa, China, South America, Mexico, the United States and Canada, not to mention the native Indians, Creoles, cock-roaches, fleas, land crabs, ants, scorpions, sandflies, mosqui- • toes, and turkey buzzards, locally known as "John Crows." This is a land of social and political equality and no discrim- ination is made in favor of any class except in the cases of the buzzard and roach. The former is protected by a special act of the legislature making the shooting of one of these birds punisha- ble by a fine of $25.00 for each offense. Although the price seemed quite reasonable, we refrained from killing any of them simply because it was not the style, besides one hates to see a man going around making a displaj^ of his wealth. The case of the cock-roach is different. He is protected by the stronger law of public opinion, consequently he assumes a degree of audacity unparalleled in any other country. Among the privileges accorded his lordship, the most notable is that of bath- ing in the water pitcher at all hours, but do not loose your temper, it is his right. Lift him out gently, place in a comfortable posi- tion on a chair, bowing low, you will beg his pardon for interrupt- ing his aquatic performance. You may now take a drink, provid- ing you still have the desire. O, don't think to escape his tyranny by drinking wine or beer for his authority extends over the whole territory and must be recognized alike by rich and poor. These are not the modest little fellows that are occasionally seen in the northern groceries glancing timidly around and vanishing like smoke at the slightest alarm, but great lordly loafers grown proud and arrogant through untold generations of supremacy. He is everywhere, on the table, in the bookcase, in the pantry, in the parlor, upstairs and down, "^ n the bed and und ^ it. When you 16 A HoosiER IN Honduras. wake from clanini}' dreams you will find him mounted on the high post at the foot of 3'our couch, looking down on 3'ou with lofty dis- dain, as he muses on the mutibility of man and his works. When he moves, he does so with "kingly leisure and courtly grace." He is "monarch of all he survej^-s," and he traverses his domain in imperial state. Belize is the negro's paradise. Here he enjoys every privilege that is accorded his white brother, and some besides, I am told. In the shops you are met b}^ smiling, black clerks; on the street you are jostled by a good-natured black throng. The police are black, likewise the mail-carriers and postal clerks. The police force, bj^ the way, is said to be very efficient, being composed of the "pick" of the province. They are tall, well pro- portioned, finely uniformed, and bear themselves as proudly as Roman soldiers. CUSTOM HOUSU. The government is very indulgent to its prisoners, allowing^ them to take a stroll about town every morning, from 8 to 12 o'clock, and for exercise they are permitted to break stone or make any necessary improvements on the streets, for which they are very grateful, no doubt. I met a squad one morning starting out for their daily walk,, and noticed with pleasure the tender-hearted policy that sent a couple of officers along with the gang to see that they did not get hurt or lost in their rambles. To enable the officers to properly protect their wards they were armed with double-barrelled, breech- loading shot guns. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 17 Each convict had his name and number conspicuously lettered in bright red on the back of his shirt, which added not a little to their picturesque appearance. The houses are all frame, with one or two exceptions, and those of the better class, usually being three stories in height with balconies and wide verandas, over which are trained vines and climbing roses. The buildings are nearly all painted white with green blinds and the effect is charming. Flowers in endless variety flourish throughout the year, filling the air with their fragrance, among these, the oleander is one of the most conspic- uous, the tree attaining here its greatest perfection, often reaching a hight of twelve feet, its pink and white blossoms, contrasting beautifully with the dark green foliage of the mango trees, which are planted extensively for shade as well as fruit. The streets, which stretch away in every direction, were laid out without regard to regularity. They cross each other at ever5r possible angle, and describe the most remarkable curves ever con- ceived by a city engineer. However, these sudden turns are con- stantly revealing some new and unexpected feature, and one easily forgives the eccentric genius who planed this flowery maze when wandering through its mysterious depths. Regent street is an exception to the rule, being straight for a half mile or so, and it would be hard to imagine a prettier picture than that presented, looking down this avenue, bordered by wav- ing palms, its white balconied houses half hidden by vines and flowering shroubs, ending at last in a fine grove of mahogany trees, m the midst of which stands the mansion of the govenor. There are no sidewalks, every one taking the middle of the street, dodging hither and thither to avoid the donkey carts, cabs and horsemen. However, accidents seldom occur, and as there is no mud, and the "Brown Brigade" carefully takes up all dust and papers every morning we need not complain. Looking in almost any direction we have a background of blue sea with its white caps and hundreds of strange craft, known as dories, but which are peculiar to this locality, being constructed by hollowing out a log, and rigging sloop fashion. These are invari- bly manned by caribs who come hundreds of miles to buy and sell in the markets of Belize. Owing to the prevalence of the trade winds which sweep over 18 A HoosiER IN Honduras. the gulf from the east almost every week during the year, the climate is delightful at all seasons, the summers average about 85 degrees and the winters about 10 degrees lower. One evening the chief of the fire department called to inquire if I would like to witness his company go through their fortnightly exercises, I told him confidentially that it was for that very pur- pose that I had left home and kindred and became a wanderer in a strange land. He was much affected, but restrained his feelings remarkably well, though there was a perceptible tremor in his voice as he grasped ni}- hand and said: "It is well' the desire of thj^ soul shall be granted. ' ' In less than fifteen minutes after it had been announced that the visitor wished to see the "nigger's whoop 'er up" every man was in his place, each arrayed in a flaming red shirt and shin- ing tin helmet. "lyively now boys," shouted the captain, and the way the old pump rattled down the street was frightful to contemplate.. The stentorian tones of the leader were drowned in the chorus of wild 5^ells that rose from the heroic band, as they charged madly along the principal thoroughfare, the rickety old engine lunging from side to side, threatening every moment to start on a deadl)" excursion through the crowd that lined the way, lending their voices to swell the unearthly din. The machine soon reached the river without accident, other than turning over a fruit stand on top of its terrified owner whose frantics struggles to extricate herself added greatly to the general joy. A half hour was now spent adjusting the suction house, dur- ing which each member acted as leader por tem. , giving orders to everj^ one, that no one obeyed; however, all was read}^ at last. The captain shouted, "Give it to 'er! make 'er howl: shake 'er up lively; let 'er have it!" Thus encouraged each man put his soul in his work and bent to the task as if the salvation of the town depended on his single arm. Shortly the water reached the nozzle, spurting forth fitfully, but gradually increased in force and volume until a distance of thirty-five yard was recorded, which was <:onsidered remarkable. I thanked the captain and begged him to dismiss the perspiring crew, who were nearly dead from such unusual exertion. The town of Belize has been twice destroyed by fire, which A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 19 accounts for this department, which is the only one in Central America. The danger is now much less than formerly, owing to the passing of an ordinance prohibiting any but metal or tile roofs. The town has many pretty churches and a number of large stores, where you can find everything under the sun except the one article you happen to need. Its public buildings are solid, if not elegant, and the market house would do credit to a city of much greater pretensions. The Belize river divides the town about equally, and is spanned by a bridge over which a motley crowd sweeps from early morning till late at night. Two weeklies, the Colonial Guardian and Belize Advertiser, supply the news a week after the rest of the world has forgotten it;. but the merchants are liberal advertisers, and both publications seem fairly prosperous, and each editor assures me that his paper has a larger circulation than all others combined, which proves that the printers instinct, is much the same the world over. Belize is a delighful place to spend a few weeks or months dur- ing the winter season, the climate during December, January, Feb- uruary and March is simply delightful, while the days are warm the nights are cool enough to make a blanket desirable. Hardly a cloud will be seen during these months, the air is laden with the perfume of flowering plants, pineapples and mangoes abound attaining their greatest perfection, oranges glisten amid the dark green foliage like the fabled apples of gold, and may be had for the picking, providing the owner's away. The private residences of the merchants are furnished with a degree of luxury that astonishes the visitor who has become possessed with the idea that life in the tropics mean simply straw huts and bananas. The markets furnish almost everything the appetite could wish except fresh butter and milk. These articles are imported in cans, mostly from France or England and answer the purpose very well. Numerous boarding houses and two first class hotels furnish ample accommodation for tourists. The Union Hotel is probably the best known. It was established in 1871 and is pleasantly located on North Front street, surrounded by ample grounds where one may sit in the shade and study the "Tariff" which is printed in English, and Spanish as follows: 20 A HoosiER IN Honduras. Precios. Charge. Por Dia 6s Board aud Almuerzo O Comida 2s Lodging 6s Cafe Is Breakfast or Dinner 2s Posada Solamente 3s Coffee Is Se Haceu Arreglos Lodging only 3s Especialls por Messes Arrangements for the month Semanas previo Aviso or week to be previously agreed upon. 1 Lainfiesta Proprietor. This information is here inserted free of charge. Mr. Lain- fiesta deserves it for maintaining such a comfortable resort at such ridiculously low figures, only 6 s Por Dia and then his Almuerzo O Comido is most excellent and very reasonable at 2s. I have personall)^ examined his Posada Solamente and find it perfect in qualit}^ and entirely satisfactory as to quantity, in fact no one could expect so large an amount for the trifling sum of .3s. . Within easy reach of Belize are a number of resorts where one ma}^ spend a day or two very plea'santly, and a sail over the spark- ling waters of the harbor, in the early morning or under the soft light of the moon, is a delightful experience which can be enjoj^ed at a trifling expense, as the supply of boats and sailors is always equal to the demand. The towns of Livingston and Puerto Cot- tez are within easy reach by steamer and well repay a visit. The former is the principal port of entree to Guatemala on the Atlantic side and is inhabited for the most part by the Carib Indians, whose strange houses and habits will prove an interesting study. The latter is the principal Atlantic port of Honduras and is connected with San Pedro by the only railroad m the republic. This bit of road is thirty-six miles long, and tourists who wish a novel exper- ience should ride over it. It cost little less than a million dollars a mile and is not paid for. There may be worse roads in the world but they have not been advertised. There are two great days in Belize. Monday when the mail arrives and Friday when it goes out. As the custom of the country is "never to do anything to-day that can be put off till to-morrow," the consequence is that Friday finds every one answering letters that ought to have been answered on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thurs- A HoosiER IN Honduras. 21 day. Don't speak to anyone now, if you value your life. Wan- der away to some secluded dell, anywhere to escape the scribbling pen. -The mail closes at 10 A. m. as the hour approaches the fury increases, to get their letters posted before the fatal stroke of the bell, now becomes the soul ambition of the Belizian, but there is one last hope — a kind, indulgent government, holds the steamer one hour longer during which letters may be taken aboard by pay- ing a double rate. From the income of this last hour, I was told, public buildings were erected, official salaries paid, hospitals and asylums maintained, but I am inclined to think my informant was not strictly reliable, at least not as reliable as I would wish if com- piling an Encyclopedia of general information. bridge; and marke;t house. The stranger is struck by the peculiar appearance of the liouses and it is sometimes quite a while before he discovers the reason, for as a rule, they are very similar to the buildings at home but after little he looks for the chimneys and finds none. Kitchens are always built separately and at a safe distance from the dwelling. Here the cook reigns, and she is a despot of the most pronounced type. She does not stay at the house but comes at irregular inter- vals and prepares the meals and departs with the fragments with which she supports her own family and all her near and distant relatives. Servants seldom reside on the premises but come at stated times, each doing the particular work assigned and no more. 22 A HoosiER IN Honduras. As soon as their task is performed thej^ disappear. Ever)^ house keeper must have a cook, a table girl, a laundress and one for gen- eral house work. Of course, if she lives in any sort of styl'fe she will also require a housekeeper: a ladies maid, a butler, coachman, a boy to carry her moneS'- and parcels when she goes shopping. These various functionaries appear at certain hours, performing their offices with the slightest possible outlay of energy. Their duties ended they vanish. That's the very word, no other term will describe the suddenness with which they fade away, however, they return next day with less speed and more ceremony, sometimes requiring a full half hour to traverse the space between the gate to the door, but they file up promptly Saturday and take their wages with just as much satisfaction as though they had earned it. The servant does all the marketing and thereby increases her sal- ary perceptably — for instance you tell cook to get "fip-pence worth o' plantains," she will return with a pennyworth and explain the small measure by a long story about low market. "Plantain might}^ scase Missus. Most all gone fur true. Bockra man just get all," and so with everything else, Bockra is the Carib word for white. From time immemorial the native cook has prepared the meals on a primitive range made by placing a couple of stones on the floor then laying another across for a top, and when some of the more enterprising merchants sought to introduce modern stoves there was a regular "howl." However, they were gradually adop- ted. A friend of ours had just put one in and had, as she sup- posed, explained its workings so that the cook would have no trou- ble. You can imagine her astonishment when, after waiting an hour and a half for dinner, she ventured to investigate the cause of delay to find the demon of the kitchen standing over the stove fairly boiling with rage, and pouring forth a perfect torrent of Cre- ole English mixed with a large proportion Carib Spanish, the only- language in which she could express the heavy weight "swear words" with which she was freighted; instead of starting the fire in the stove she had kindled a huge conflagration under it, then placed the victuals on top, in the oven, in the fire place, on the hearth and "there she stood yelling like a wounded tiger" saidmy friend, and "when she saw me laughing, turned with a bread knife in such fury that I was glad to escape to the house." After a> few weeks the poor creature became reconciled but insists to this A HoosiER IN Honduras. ,23 day that the old style is much the best and to prove her wisdom makes a practice of burning up a dinner about once a week. I have spoken of the stores where are kept "everything except the article you want. ' ' Perhaps I ought to modify that remark, for on several occasions I found exactly what I was looking for and was sur- prised to note the great amount and variety of goods handled by these merchants, whose trade extends hundreds of miles along the coast and far back into the interior towns of Guatemala and Hon- duras. Among the establishments as vast and varied as a mus- eum, I might mention Beattie & Co., of the "Colosseum," James Brodie & Co., A. E. Morlan, the largest dealer in jewelry, musi- cal instruments and merchandise in Central America. Here you will find all the latest novelties imported direct from the manufac- turers in England and Europe as 'well as the United States. The owner of this establishment is also United States Consul* for this port which, of course, makes his store the center of attraction to tourists from the states, who are speedily attracted to the spot by the stars and stipes which floats above the office. Among other representatives houses might be mentioned B. Cramer &Co., Krug & Oswald, Gray & Co. The stranger will find a mine of amusement in the market, which he may work at intervals to good advantage. Here he will meet a busy throng, noisy but good-natured, every one trying to get the best of every one else in the way of trade. Caribs from the adjacent coast with their little stores of fruit, Casava Bread, yams, plantains, etc.. Coolies from India squatting on the ground with their stock in trade arranged on mats before them. These people have a peculiar, far away, melancholy expression that is touching to note, but I'm told they are about the shrewdest traders in the market. Indians, half-breeds, Chinese and Mexicans mingle in this strange crowds and urge their wares with such vehemence of gesture and wealth of language that it takes a man of strong mental qualities to be able to run this gauntlet of attractions without ■carrying away some memento of the place. *Since the above was written, Mr. Morlan's establishment has changed hands, Mr. N. J. Keating succeeding to the business. However, the office of the U. S. Consulate will be found in its old quarters immediately East of the store. 24 A HoosiER IN Honduras. The inhabitants depend altogether on rain water for all domes- tic purposes, each house being provided with a huge tank for pre- serving the same and on a public square near the center of the city a collection of huge wooden reservoirs will be seen. These huge barrells, 20 or 25 feet high, 50 or 60 feet in circumference, always attract the attention of the visitor. They are the property of the colony and are used as a reserve supply on which the citizens may draw in times of drought. Naturally this water is very warm but is rendered cool by a simple process. Each famil}^ is provided with a large stone jar of porous texture with a slim neck, locally known as a "water monkey." These are filled and placed where a current of air will strike them and it is remarkable how soon the contents become cool and palatable. BARRACKS. One of the pleasant features of Belize is "The Colonial Club,"" which was established in 1880. This association includes in its membership all the literary and artistictalentof the place, and to its influence, direct and otherwise, we may trace much of the improve- ment that has marked the past ten j^ears of the cities history. The Club took possession of its handsome and pleasant quarters on Regent street, January 15, 1886, and is open every day, Sundays excepted. The Reading Rooms, I^ibrary and Billiard Parlors are on the third floor over looking the bay, from whence comes a delightful breeze. Strangers are welcome, and they will find here all the leading publications of the United States and England, besides a library that will surprise you by the large number and A HoosiER IN Honduras. 25 excellent character of books contained, which includes many of the standard historical and scientific works, as well as late editions of the encyclopedias, dictionaries, etc. To these are added a respect- able collection of the lighter literature of the day, largely English, of course, but containing a fair sprinkling of American authors. On the second floor is a large hall where the literary branch of the association hold their meetings and at times indulge in amatuer theatricals, These performances are sure to attract a large audi- ence, which, if it is disappointed by the exibition, never acknow- ledge it, because its "quite English you know." Mention has already been made of the healthfulness of this port; there are other than natural advantages that account for the immunity from fevers enjoyed by the residents of Belize, these are found in the strict sanitary regulations enforced by the officers entrusted with that most responsible department of the colonial government. Through the efforts of this body almost perfect drainage has been attained by a system of canals, that carry off all surface water, and which, aside from their value in a sanitary point of view, are made an ornament to the city, the sides and bottom being smoothly cemented, and handsomely curbed throughout their length with the same indestructible material; they are lined with flowering shrubs, and over hung by masses of foilage, all being reflected in the glassy surface with the accuracy of a mirror and the streets are carried over by numerous bridges producing an affect that is charming as well as novel. It is gratifying to know that the death rate has been greatly lowered by these precautions, since the completion of this work, yellow fever has almost dissapeared while ague and malarial com- plaints have been reduced to the minimum, in fact Belize, at the present time will compare favorably in the matter of health statis- tics, with towns of similar size in the States, which enjoy very much greater climatic advantages. Eike all towns, Belize has its children of genius, "natural born" poets, painters, inventors, mind readers, etc., etc., these local celebrities are pointed out to the visitor and their various accomplishments, paraded with a degree of pride that is comendable. While loafing around one of the newspaper offices one day the edi- tor placed a bundle of papers in my hands labeled "offerings of the 26 A HoosiER IN Honduras. Poets." It had been accumulating for months, they did not strike him as being quite the thing for a newspaper, but he has pacified the writers by promising to publish the collection in a neat vol- ume, under the title of "colonial songs, by colonial songsters," as soon as time will permit. As he hopes to be busy for several years to come he kindly allowed me to copy a few of the most touching, which are here given. Not, however, as a fair example of Belizian literature, but rather as a tropical curiosity. ode; to sir JOHN CROW. Sir John Crow sat on a potato tree Picking his teeth so silently, silently, His good wife sat right by his side Gazing o'er the sea so wild and wide. Said he to she, "what d'ye think," Said she to he, "let's take a drink." Then Sir John flapped his sable wing, "You bet, that's just the proper thing." G. G. S n. To LUCINDA JANE. O beautiful girl, with the dark black curl I'm waiting for thee by the deep, damp sea, Waiting for thee, waiting for thee, All alone by the moist wet sea. Then quickly come, and bring your gum And we will chin, while the minutes spin. For my arm is long and my heart is strong, Then hurry along, love, hurry along. J. D. h- i^Last and best.) EVENING IN BEWZE. "The sand fly floats in the evening air, The mosquito, too, is everywhere. Other bugs and things that sting Are crawling over everything. Everything — Everything. Soap and candles Sugar and snuff, Land of lizards and plumdufl. " F. C. Mc 1 CHAPTER II. AT THE AMERICAN HOTEE — A CARIB VIELAGE — HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE STRANGE PEOPEE — A EUNERAE — SAIE ON THE RIO DUECE — ARRIVE AT SANTA THOMAS. Having concluded our work in Belize, we took our departure for tlie South on the evening of May 4. On the morning of the fifth we found ourselves in the Harbor of Puerto Cortez, with the lofty mountain of Omoa on our right and the village on the left, which looked very pretty from a distance, half hidden among the shadows of the tall trees. But a closer view revealed but few pas- sably decent houses with a large number of old frames, that were all but ready to fall, a few thatched huts, a sandy waste called a street, through which the celebrated railroad is built, a custom house which I hope has fallen down or been blown away or otherwise destroyed, but no doubt it is tottering in its old track to this day — changes rarely occur in this country, only one or two have been noted since its discovery in 150Z. Our vessel lay here several hours taking on bananas, five thousand bunches were received, about one-fourth that number were rejected and cast into the sea, much to the disgust of the pro- ducers. Next morning found us at lyivingston, which, as has already been stated is Guatemala's chief port of entry on the Atlantic coast. Here we found accommodation at the "American Hotel" kept by Mr. J. C. Norrich. The "American" is not as large as the Astor House, but it is more expensive in proportion to its size, "Tariff" $2.00 per diem. If the Astor House should take the American as a standard and charge in the same ratio for ser- vice rendered, I judge its rates would be about $60,000 a week, however, the American furnishes many things that would be a novelty at the Astor. The frijoles are just as good as anybody's and weigh just as much to the pound. Here we first met the tortillas with which we afterward became so familiar. Now we might have lived at the Astor for years and never made the acquaintance of either of these nutritious dishes. The "American" has fewer rooms than the Astor but accommodates more guests. These 28 A HoosiER IN Honduras. guests do not all leave their autographs iu the register. In order to have more space for our work we hired a house across the street, where we established our headquarters from whence the writer made daih' excursion into the surrounding forrests, while his more methodical and business-like companion arranged a glittering exhibition that attracted crowds of natives from all the country round. Livingston contains a large Carib population which proved an interesting study. In the following paper, which was originally published in the Indianapolis Journal, the writer endeavored to give a brief outline of their history as told by "Jim" with some observation on their present habits and condition. "During my recent visit to Guatemala I became greatlj^ inter- ested in that strange race, now nearly extinct, known as the Carib Indians. The village of Livingston, situated at the entrance of the Gulf Dulce, is one of the largest settlements of these people, containing, as near as I could learn, about two thousand Caribs,, AMERICAN HOTEL, I.IVINGSTON. with a few whites and a handful of soldiers, ragged, barefooted and totally undisciplined, but whose presence is deemed necessary to maintain the dignity of the little republic and properly impress the stranger with the military resources of the country. Being delayed some time at this place, the writer devoted his leisure hours to the study of Carib history from their own standpoint, but, . A HoosiER IN Honduras. 29- must I admit it, with small success, for, garrulous as they are on almost any other subject, they could hardly be induced to speak of themselves: however, by putting together the fragments gleaned from different sources, I think the reader may get a very fair idea of the present condition of this remnant of a once powerful race, with a glimpse of its past record that may prove interesting tO' those whose tastes lead them in the direction of historical research or the more delightful study of folk lore. This singular reticence in regard to their customs and beliefs may be accounted for, in part, from the dread they have of being interfered with by the gov- ernment, whose representatives regard with suspicion the perform- ance of certain rights and ceremonies held sacred by the successors of the fiery Caonabo, who reigned in the southern archipelago at the time of its discovery by Columbus. In the writer's opinion, these periodical complaints are simply the result of jealousy on the part of the petty officials, whose envy is aroused by the superior thrift of the Caribs, whose industrious and economical habits contrast sharply with the lazy, shiftless- lives of the half-breeds, who are in many instances appointed to administer the law in these remote corners of the state, and whose fitness for the position is never questioned, providing their politi- cal creed is found favorable to the party in power. It is a matter of astonishment that a people of such primitive habits should have survived the terrible persecution of the Spaniards, whose heartless, cruelty seemed satisfied with nothing short of the total extinction of every national trait, as witness the Aztecs of Mexico, and the still more highly cultured "Children of the Sun," who had con- verted the desert wastes of Peru into blooming gardens, and whose knowledge of agriculture and mechanics should have been pre- served at all hazards, as an acquisition of far greater importance, than all the mineral wealth of the mountains. Had thirst for knowledge equaled her love of gold, Spain might to-day have held the first place among the nations of the earth, but, like all nations or individuals whose highest aim is the accumulation of wealth for purely selfish ends, the successors of Ferdinand and Isabella- sank steadily, until, at the present time, they occupy the lowest position among the powers laying claim to any degree of civiliza- tion. But my present purpose is not to discuss questions or morality or philosophy, but rather to sketch hastily some of the character- 30 A HoosiER IN Honduras. istics of this interesting tiibe, whose ancestors ruled the Western sea, and whose huge, painted dories appearing on the horizon filled the inhabitants of the neighboring islands with consternation. The Caribs of to-da^' are confined to a few small settlements along the coast of Honduras, and at this one point in Guatemala, they have not only retained their native tongue, but many of their ancient customs, and continue to be the best sailors on the coast. They were first met with by Columbus on his second voyage, and formed a striking contrast to the friendly, easy-going savages with whom he became familiar during his first visit. Among all the daring enterprises undertaken b^^ the Admiral, or those under his command, the ones directed against these ferocious chiefs were attended with the most danger, and the story of the wild adven- tures of the valiant Ojeda reads more like Grecian fable than act- ual historical facts. How- ever, their desperate cour- age, coupled with a know- ledge of war far superior to that of the tribes around them, was no match for their civilized assailants, and their story from that time is one of gradual de- cay. Driven from point to point by an ever advancing foe, the territory of the Carib Chiefs rapidly dwin- dled away until their iden- tity as a nation was lost; in 1796 the English gov- ernment transported the entire Carib population from Dominica and St. Vincent to Ruatan, a small but fertile island near the coast of Honduras, whither most of them have since emigrated, owing to the constant encroachment of English settlers. These people have a legend, somewhat shady, but pretty withal, which I drew from an old Carib sailor locally known as ?--=. j:^i^AN&ft;oVtThk.t, >««*. ^ MANGROVE TREE. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 31 "Jim," in whose dory I spent many pleasant hours, skirting the palm-fringed shores of the Rio Dulce, as the natives persist in call- ing the narrow entrance to Lake Golfete. This story necessarily abridged for present purposes, traces their historj^ back through centuries of time to the cradle of the nation in a beautiful valley in the midst of the Blue mountains of North America, and correspond- ing with the territory now known as Virginia or North Carolina. In this happy vale, surrounded by every luxury an Indian could desire, they lived and loved, fought and died, and were buried or burned, as the case might be; the rich bottom lands furnished corn in abundance, almost without effort, the mountains were alive with game, the rivers swarmed with fish, the men were brave, the women beautiful, and there they might have been living in peace and happiness to this da}', possibly, had not a most unfortunate vision come to their chief, Un-gow-a, in which a lovely female formed the central feature, as is frequently the case in visions of to-day among men much further advanced socially and politi- cally. This figure, as described by the infatuated Un-gow-a, posssessed a fair skin, a face radiant with light, while her long golden tresses floated about her shapely shoulders like a cloud. She appeared every evening in the southern sky, smiling and beck- oning to our unhappy chief. True, others saw nothing but a bright star, with a long trail of light streaming after it, but no Carib ever questioned a chief, especially on matters connected with visions in which handsome women appeared. It wasn't con- sidered safe. So the lovely phantom appearing every evening, continued to smile and beckon, until Un-gow-a quite lost his head, if not his heart, and, like men of a much later period,- soon found a hundred or more good and sufiicient reasons for doing the thing he most of all desired to do. He, therefore, assembled the wise men in common council, during which he delivered an address of such persuasive eloquence and convincing power that each member of that conservative body expressed himself more than satisfied with the plan suggested, which was nothing less than the abandoning of their mountain home to follow the bright star of the southern sky, for it was as such that the beautiful creature appeared to ordinary eyes. Un-gow-a told them by so doing they would be led to a land of flowers, where snow would never be seen, where 32 A HoosiER IN Honduras. would be foiiud fruits of every kind flourishing throughout the year, where cold and hunger, work and worry would be forgotten, in fact he drew a picture so fascinating in detail, so rich in coloring and poetic in sentiment that the whole tribe was wild with delight, with the exception of two old sceptics, who were promptly burned. This pleasant duty ended, the nation demanded to be led forthwith to the land of rest and readj^-made hominy. Thus began the long series of moves to the southward, lured on from 3^ear to year b)^ the bright vision that still smiled encourag- ingly, shaking her shining tresses over the soft summer sky at that witching hour, between daylight and dark, when even ordinary objects are invested with a strange charm. On they went, fighting OLDEST CHURCH IN AMERICA, ISLAND OF COZUMEL- their way through hostile territories, climbing mountains, fording rivers, cutting paths through matted jungles, conquering all foes, overcoming all obstacles, until at last they found themselves con- fronted by a wild waste of water. Great minds are only stimu- lated by opposition. These doughty warriors gazed awhile on the heaving deep and decided to cross it, and to that end began at once the construction of a boat suitable for the purpose. This was the first of the famous dories which have excited the admiration of all sailors down to the present day. With their usual good fortune they passed safely lo the nearest island of that long chain now known as the Bahamas. Thereafter their progress was an uninter- rupted series of conquests, passing from one verdant isle to another A HOOSIER IN HONDURA.S. 33 until they reached the great archipelago of the southern Antilles, where every promise of the beautiful guide seemed fulfilled and the vision faded from the sky, not, however, until she had made an earthward swoop, carrying off the faithful Un-gow-a to shine with her forever in some remote heaven for beyond the ken of mor- tals. Here in these lovely islands, shaded by stately groves, watered by crystal springs, the weary warriors built their villages , Surely this was the Indian paradise, the veritable "happy hunting ground. ' ' Fruits to every taste, flowers of every hue, serene skies, sunny seas, misty mountains, limpid streams, vast forests, where bright- winged birds flashed from tree, or poised on the perfumed air, their trembling wings sparkling like gems in the sunlight. Such, in short, is the story of the Caribs, as told by "Jim," which, no doubt, is quite as false and not more foolish than the fables of the Norsemen, which have fed the insatiable appetites of a dozen generations of poets, without affecting these inexhaustable minds of fiction. Improbable as this story of Carib migration may seem, it has engaged the serious attention of a number of learned writers, among whom might be mentioned the name of our own Irving, who, referring to some similar fable says: "To trace the footsteps of this roving tribe throughout its wide migrations from the Appa- lachian Mountains along the clusters of islands which stud the Gulf of Mexico and Carribean Sea, to the shores of Paria and so across the vast regions of Guayana and Amazonia to the remote coast of Brazil, would be one of the most curious researches in aboriginal history and throw much light on the mysterious ques- tion of the population of the New World;" and it must remain a matter of regret that this most delightful of American historical writers was never moved to undertake the work. While the Caribs of to-day are regarded with suspicion by a certain class of people, those who know them best will tell you that they are not only industrious, but in most cases honest and trust- worthy; that some of the men have a weakness for rum cannot be denied, but in a country where this beverage forms a part, and often the principal part of every merchant's stock, it is not a' mat- ter of surprise that some have followed the example of their white neighbors. The women are hard workers, earning good wages on the sugar and banana plantations, where their services are always 34 A HoOvSii'.K IX H()Niiri>;.\s. in demand, while many who reside in the villages engage in the laundry business; one of the sights of Livingston is this department of Carib enterprise. Near the landing, where a strong spring fur- nishes an abundant supply of clear, soft water, j^on can see almost any day a half dozen or more women bending over little wooden troughs made by splitting a small tree in halves and hewing out the insides, just as the northern farmers do when short of "sap" buckets during maple sugar season. They use no "washboards," but saturate the clothes wfth soap and water, after whfch they beat them over large, smooth stones, with disastrious results sometimes. They present a highly picturesque appearance with their single sleeveless garment, which is cut very low in the neck, and greatly abridged in length, and is held in place by shoulder straps. This feminine inven':ion, which cannot be properly described as a "dress" or a "skirt," or even as a "waist," forms their sole protec- Bm,lZU, FROM THF; bay. tection from the burning rays of the tropical sun, excepting the red or yellow turbans worn more as an ornament than from any necessity. The men are nearly all sailors, and are either employed on the coasting vessels or as lightermen, or as is frequently the case, engaged in the carrying trade independently, many of them owning dories of several tons burden, which they manage with remarkable skill. These boats are models of their kind. They are construc- ted of a solid piece of wood, holl jwed and shaped with the greatest care. They are all sizes, from the tiniest craft capable of carrying only one or two persons, up to thirty or fort}^ feet in length, with a A HoosiER IN Honduras. 35 carrying capacity of twelve to fifteen tons. We frequently met these little shells several miles from shore with a single occupant standing up and steering his course with the utmost ease. Some- times when the sea was rough both man and boat would disappear behind a huge roller, always, however, rising on the next wave, where it would hang an instant on the crest, then down like an arrow into the watery valley. To us it seemed quite impossible for such frail specks to survive in the wild tumult of wind and waves, but these intrepid sailors showed no concern whatever, but hailed us cheerily as they passed and were soon lost in the distance. Often in the dusk of evening these strange rovers of the deep would appear suddenly, like restless spirits wandering abroad over the dark waters, their swarthy features illumined an instant by the rudy glow of the ship's lantern, and then swallowed up in the gloom. As already stated these boats are constructed of one solid piece of wood and the building of one of the larger sizes is an undertak- ing of great importance, the first step, of course, is the selection of a suitable tree. This frequently involves a search through milfes of forest and occupies weeks of time. The largest vessel of this class, that came under my notice, and which I carefully measured, proved to be a little over eight feet across the beam and sixty feet in length. The reader can imagine the size of the tree from which this huge dory was cut. However, it was not considered a good model, being twelve or fourteen feet too short to meet the nice requirements of the native draughtsman. The dwellings of the Caribs also attract attention by their peculiar construction, being almost identical with those found on the islands at the time of their discovery. No nails are used, the frame being secured by lashings of the rope like vines with which the forests abound. In this way each plate and rafter is fastened. Then comes the roof. This is made of the huge fronds of the Cahune palms, ingeniously woven together, and when completed will effectually turn the heavy rains that fall daily during the wet season. The walls of these unique houses are made by weaving together a kind of wild cane, like rude basket work. In some cases these are plastered over with mud, but oftener left open, and lively scenes are some- times witnessed during the evening hours when the interior ip illuminated by the pine torches or the fire on the floor over which 36 A HoosiER IN Honduras. the good wife prepares the evening meal which she aud her lord will enjo5^ separately, as the wife never presumes to eat at the same table with her husband. They have a fable which pretends to account for this unsocial custom by stating that at a remote period the Caribs captured their women from a neighboring tribe and made them their wives without the usual formality, which so enraged the sensitive creatures that they vowed never to associate with their captors as companions, though compelled to follow them as servants. ^I'^^^B^^ S3g^' D<'uS(.ir\ -/ THE LAUNDRY. These dwellings, viewed from a distance, so exactly resemble huge stacks of hay that the writer had often been deceived by the appearance, and even after a long residence in the country, would still find himself surprised to see a thin blue column of smoke slowly rising from their crests, betraying the secret of the interior. These abodes are built so closely together in village.s that frequently the low projecting eaves actually touch, leaving only two or three feet A HoosiER IN Honduras. 37 between walls. They are placed at all angles without the least regard for the cardinal points. While the walls are only six or seven feet high at the sides, the roof towers up twenty-five or thirty feet. Usually they have but two openings, one at the front, the other at the rear end. These are sometimes closed by a wicket gate, but oftener are left open day and night. As might be expected where such inflamable structures are built so closely, fires sometimes occur, but as a rule one or two houses only are destroj'-ed, for contrary to appearance, these thatched roofs bum very slowly and are easily extinguished. This is owing to the fact that they are very compactly woven, to a thickness of 12 to 16 inches, and during the wet season become so saturated with water that they hardly get dry before the recurrance of the rainy months.. In case of such disaster, the inhabitants turn out enmasse, audi rebuild the destroyed house, without any thought of recompense^ so that aside from the temporary inconvenience, the loss is not felt. The Carib housewife is easily satisfied so far as house furnish- ings are concerned. A small table, two or three stools from the native workshop, usually complete her outfit. The stove con.^ists of a couple of stones, over which a third of flat shape is laid. Under this the fire is built on the earthen floor. The smoke finds its way out through crevices in roof and wall. Bedsteads are unknown, the hammock forming their only couch. But if the Carib wife or daughter care little for carpets, chairs, or dresses, they make up this deficiency in the feminine character, by their inordinate craving: for jewelry, no woman considering herself fully dressed without at least a necklace of gold or silver, while if her means will allow she will fairly weigh herself down with earrings, bracelets, and strings, of beads, to say nothing of finger rings, lockets, chains and charms. Enterprising traders knowing their weakness in this dir- ection , visit their villages from time to time and are always sure of a good trade, at least as long as their mone}^ holds out. At the time of my visit one of these Nomadic dealers appeared and opened a store in a deserted house and I spent some time watching them trade, often admiring the tact displayed, in order to secure the cov- eted article at a price which they considered a bargain. They imagine they can detect an alloy in metals by the sense of smell and we were often amused to see both men and women subjecting 38 A HOOSIER IN HONDURx\S. the different articles iu the case to this curious test. We were also surprised with what accuracy they were able to judge of the merits of pieces that appeared exactl)^ alike to the eye. Several times the jeweler tested this faculty by taking two rings, one solid, the other plated, and between which we could see no difference. These he wrapped fn tissue paper, leaving only a small surface of the metal visible, then holding them in his own hand, submit them for inspection, asking "which good?" The answer usually came promptly and was nearly always correct. The wearing apparel of the men rivals that of the women in simplicity, consisting of a pair of pants made of cotton drill, to which on state occasions may be added a shirt of the same mater- ial. The pants are held in place by a leathern belt with a holder for the inseparable "Machete," a long, heavy knife which is used for every conceivable purpose. In the cultivation of their crops, this universal tool takes the place of plow, harrow, hoe and rake, while in the household it represents the can opener, butcher knife, ^ hatchet, hammer, ax, saw or plane. I doubt if any other people can turn one tool to as many uses and do it as grace- s' • fully. Carib language is a "^ terror to strangers to whom it ..-:..- seems the wildest gibberish, though we were told that it has been reduced to a sys- tem, provided with a well de- lined grammar, and that some pious priests once published a prayer book in the native tongue, though we failed to dis- cover a copy. To the traveler who hears it for the first time it is simply an unintelligible jumble, and seems to be complete in less than a dozen words, or rather sounds, which are continually repeated with fiery vehemence. In this connection I may be excused for quoting this passage from a recently published letter, "Their lan- guage is as peculiar as their dress and manners, and is exceed- ingly hard to master. The laundress has just called and rendered her bill orally in the following flowery strain: THE DOCTOR DISCHARGED. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 39 "Ingowalibouswabt uzomel Erngubas evtre yeloken of spache- druz! Is it any wonder we look forward to every funeral with a sort of wild exultation? An amusing incident occured during our stay at I^ivingston, which proved very disagreeable to one of the parties concerned! A young German but recently arrived and quite ignorant of Carib customs secured passage in one of their boats bound for Belize. Everything went well until evening, when the captain made for a lonely headland, covered with a dense forest of palms. Here they made a landing and soon had a good fire with a large kettle swinging over it. At times they indulged in a strange dance around the fire accompanied by the wildest gestures and most doleful chant. Our German friend watched their performance from his place in the boat with ever-increasing apprehension, but when the crew returned presently and invited him to join them on shore he became thoroughly scared. In their ignorance of his language they tried to make him understand by signs that supper was ready. They would point to their mouths, all the while working their jaws rapidly, then shut their eyes, which meant simply, that after eating they would sleep and continue the journey in the morning, but their passenger, whose mind was filled with wild fancies' interpreted their friendly overtures quite differently. He imagined he was to be killed and cooked; and not being in sympathy "with the plan, finally covered the leader with his revolver, it was the Caribs turn to be frightened now, and with one accord they dissap- peared under the water, for they swim like porpoises, some com- ing up at the bow served to attract his attention by pretending to climb up by the cable, while two others silently slipped over the stern and quickly disarmed the trembling Dutchman, following this act by tying him securely and in this condition he was deliv- ered next day, half starved, to the authorities at Belize. Interpre- ters were called and the story soon unraveled; from the remark- able actions of the German, the natives supposed him to be a lun- atic, and so did the very best thing under the circumstances. Mutual explanations, followed by a square meal and a case of rum for the wearied crew, made everything alright and diplomatic relations between two great powers remained undisturbed. I cannot bring this article to a close without recording a most emphatic denial of the charge of Cannibalism, which has some- 40 A HoosiER IN Honduras. times beeu preferred against the Caribs, by persous entirely igno- rant of their habits and history. The fact is, the Carib population of Honduras, is far the most desirable of all the different tribes represented in the colony. As a rule, they are harmless, good natured, industrious and remarkable cleanly, a virtue, by the waj^ almost unknown among the Indians and half-breeds of the inter- ior. The writer will always remember his visit among these dusky descendants of the wild sea rovers, with pleasure. The name recalls many a dash among the roaring breakers, many a campfire on the lonely shore, followed by a substantial lunch with its dessert of juicy pineapples or still more delicious mangoes, then to our hammocks to smoke and gossip and watch the stars or listen to the wayes, until one by one the pipes went out, and we slept as only tired travelers could." One warm afternoon we were aroused from our siesta by a dis- cordant jingling of bells and supposing a fire had broken out we made a rush for the street, when the landlady informed us that it was only a funeral, and said it would pass the house. A few min- utes later, hearing a sort of wild music mingled with shouts and laughter, we hurried to the balcony where we arrived just in time to see four half drunk men, shoeless and hatless, coming along at a brisk pace bearing a coffin on their shoulders. It was simply a rough box wrapped in a piece of stripped calico and swayed from side to side as the bearers reeled along. Following was a woman, the widow I was told, carrying a rude cross covered with flowers. She seemed in excellent spirits and was laughing immoderately. Next to the hilarious chief mourner came the band, consisting of one accordian, two fiddles, a tin horn and a drum. All were run- ning to their full capacity, following the band came a mixed crowd of men, women and children. The men were attired in their usual costume, a pair of cotton drawers, and shirt worn outside. The women were simply dressed, with the regulation sleeveless garment, that shows their dusky charms to such good advantage. The children were arrayed in their innocence only. All, from the least to the greatest were smoking and all laughed and danced by turns. It was by all odds the most cheerful and inspiring funeral we had ever witnessed. I had just returned to my desk when my attention was once more called to the street by a chorus of yells and uproarious merriment. Stepping out, the cause was A HoosiER IN Honduras. 41 apparent. One of tlie bearers had stumbled and fallen, throwing the coffin to the ground, one side of the frail box was broken out, exposing an arm and a ghastly hand half closed; but it was a well behaved corpse, and instead of getting out and thrashing the awkard bearers, as it should have done, it simply lay quiet taking the whole thing as a joke. Presently the fallen man struggled to his feet. The coffin was again taken up and the procession moved merril}^ on. The landlord declared that this was a very tame affair and assured us that the burial services of the rich are very much livlier and more imposing — in such cases the "body" is dressed up in the best shirt his estate affords. It is then carefully tied in a chair in an upright position and thus carried to the grave BARRACKS LIVINGSTON. yard while the whole town turns out to do him honor by the dis- charge of crackers, rockets and a variety of native fire works, while the drinking is general and the joy unbounded. We hoped to witness a first-class affair, but were dissapointed by the unreasonable stubborness of the principle, he was the owner of three huts and a pair of mules, a regular Jay Gould, and he was sick enough to die — everybody said so — and everybody was look- ing forward to a grand time, yet this hard hearted unsympathizing creature refused to abandon his real estate and live stock, and even had the audacity to discharge his doctor, after which he rap- idly recovered. It was several days, however, before he took this bold step and it was during this time that his friends exhibited so much anxiety. They would steal up to the door to note progress 42 A HoosiER IN Honduras. and report to the eager crowd. The interest was intense. As usual in times of great excitement, the news was verj' conflicting; one bulletin was to the effect that he was almost gone; at such times a confused murmur would run through the assembl}' and an occasional shout would be heard, with here and there a random cracker. Then would come some discouraging news, he was getting better, slowly but steadil}^ growing stronger, and faces bright with happ}^ anticipations became clouded b}^ dissapointment. Finally a committee was appointed to wait upon the sick man. They argued the case long and well but he was obdurate. They had to give up. After while they returned, they came in great haste. The miserable inillionaire, with the cold indifference of the class he represents the w^orld over, not only stubbornh- refused to give his humble fellow citizens a brief half holiday, but actually drove them off the premises with a club. It was then that he dis- charged the doctor and all hope was abandoned. The following note on "o3^sters" is taken from our memorandum book, and recalls an incident of a somewhat novel character. "We went oyster hunting this morning had fairly good success — James knocked them off the trees, while the rest of us gathered them up — got about two bushels — they were fat and plump — but not large; thev roost on trees but not very high — thev do not fly- This was a novel experience — always thought 05'sters lived in the water — never heard of them being found on trees — learn some- thing ever}' daj^ — this is literally true — the shores are lined with mangrove trees, these trees are very peculiar, they flourish in salt water, they are about equall}^ divided between roots and branches, the former strike out from about 10 or 12 feet above the water reaching down at an angle of 45 degrees, much resembling the skeleton of an umbrella half closed, the branches shoot up in much the same manner, making a 'tree 40 feet high — the oys- sters attach themselves to these roots when the tide is in, when it ■ ebbs thej^ are left high and dry, and all the hunter has to do is to gather them like any other fruit — at a little distance, a grove of mangroves has the appearance of a forest on stilts, while single trees look like leafy giants wading in the sea. ' ' Messers. Anderson and Owen represent the interests of the United States at this point. Both stand high in commercial circles A HoosiER IN Honduras. 43 and are known far and wide. These gentlemen did much to make our stay in lyivingston pleasant and profitable. Mr. Anderson was so charmed with the climate that he declared he would never live anywhere else, and as an evidence of his sincerity, he had erected one of the finest private residences on the coast. The situation was certainly delightful, on the crest of a high hill, overlooking the vil- lage and bay on the left, on the right the eye wandered over the mountain heights that rose bej^ond the famed Rio Dulce, a descrip- tion of which formed the subject of a letter to the "Pittsburg Post" which I take the liberty to borrow. "I have just returned from a trip up the Rio Dulce, which is claimed by some to be the most beautiful river in the world, (the Rio Dulce, so called, is not a river at all, but a long narrow^ body of water known as I^ake Golfete, which connects the larger lake known as Gulf Dulce, with the Gulf of Honduras, but it is just as pretty as though it was a river and, in fact is usually spoken of as such. ) One traveler speaking on the subject, said he had traversed Europe and America in search of the picturesque, visiting almost every place celebrated in song and story on both continents, and his sketch book contained many lovely bits from sunny France, Spain and Italy. He dwelt long in Switzerland and carried thence many beautiful studies, but for restful, dreamy, intoxicating beauty, he acknowledged the Rio Dulce queen of all. It may not be amiss to state that this charming bit of water is situated in the eastern part of Guatemala and forms the boundary line between the departments of Chiquimula and Vera Paz. Its general course is north-east and its outlet the Gulf of Honduras. A small steamer makes weekly trips between Lyivingston near the mouth, to Isabel a small Spanish settlement near the head of navigation. Having heard so much regarding the scenery along this stream, I determined to view it for myself. I, therefore, consulted a friend and we decided to take the excursion together. We, looked about and found a boat that would answer very well, also a stout Carib to man it. With a well-filled hamper, we stepped on board just as day was breaking. The morning was perfect, and under the influence of a scarcely percep- tible breeze we moved slowly up stream, beneath the shadows of the mountains which rise abruptly from the eastern shore, watching the gradual lighting of the opposite range, whose highest points rises far above the clouds and whose misty summits are bathed in the 44 A HoosiER IN Honduras. warm sunliglit fully an hour before the denser forests at their feet. Nothing could be more delightful than to float thus idl}- along, lying at our ease, watching the shifting shadows every moment giving way before the king of daj'. The water is so clear one could easily imagine the boat suspended in air. At a depth of six fathoms the river's floor was plainh^ seen, covered with pebbles and bright colored shells. Fish of many varieties were darting from place to place like flashes of light. Others lazily suspended in the crj^stal depths w^atched us we imagined, with a degree of curiosity quite equal to our own. The shore is covered with white sand and pebbles up to the tide limit, where the rich tropical vegetation begins, which for luxuriance and variety is probably unexcelled. Right above the / r MODKRN range;. white line of the beach we have the pimento, rancoon and cahune palms, massed together with trees of a hundred varieties, the whole over run with a tangled mass of vines and creepers, many of them laden wath brilliant flowers, among which we noted the morning glory, the only familiar face among this wild confusion of green and crimson. At six o'clock our man ran the Dorj^ ashore on a wide stretch of white sand, where a cool spring added its limpid waters to the river. Here he started a fire and proceeded to make a cup of coffee and spread a light lunch. A campfire has a charm all its own, the flickering blaze, the column of blue smoke slowl}^ rising and A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 4S ■spreading out among the tops of the trees; the odor of frying ham, the cheerful simmering of the coffee pot are never so enticing as when encountered in the forest, remote from the haunts of men. There was a Sabbath-like stillness, broken only by the song of birds and the gentle purling of the brook as it made its way over the shinning sands. Among the bird voices only one was familiar, that of the morning dove, filling the air with its sweet, but melan- choly strain. Our repast over, we re-enter the boat. The wonderful pano- rama increases in interest and beauty at every turn. The breeze has freshened and the dor}^ glides swiftly along at the base of the mountains, whose seared summits tower a mile above us, in places presenting almost perpendicular walls a thousand feet high. Over these frowning ramparts nature has thrown a veil of swaying vines and flowering shrubs, whose many colored blossoms relieve the vivid green of the overhanging foliage. We note beds of lillies of several different species, among them one that closely resembles the calla. On the higher slopes are the wild fruit trees, some bursting forth in a gorgeous array of white and pink, others laden with gol- den clusters ripening in the sun. Thus we float on in a trance of delight, passing point after point, each new opening revealing some hidden treasure. We take no thought of time or toil, free for the moment, as the birds of the forest whose liquid notes come across the waters faintly, like music in a dream. At times the river widens out to a lake-like proportion. Here and there are little islands so lovely in their sol- itude that one could almost wish to give up the world with its thousand cankering cares and stop among these enchanted bowers ior ever more. What an existence! To open one's eyes every morning on such a display of color, such effects of light and shade, such vistas framed by jutting headlands that stretch away interminably until the outlines are gradually lost in the violet haze that no painter may attempt or poet describe. Oh, thou disconsolate lover, forego thy piteous sighs! Here is a retreat suited to thy condition. Kind nature will murmur in thy ear sweet sympathy. Every voice of earth and air will minister to thy comfort and fill thy heart with a deep content. 46 A HoosiER IN Honduras. ... At noon our guide turned the boat into a little bay which proved to be the mouth of a mountain stream that came tumbling over the rocks in noisy glee, sparkling in the sunlight as it danced over the white pebbles of the shore. In this pleasant nook we tar- ried an hour, sketching and lunching by turns. Near by a pair of pelicans set us a noble example by their unflagging industry. They made their headquarters on a projecting rock, from whence they took excursions up and down or across the river, seldom returning without a fish, which they caught by droping suddenly on the unsuspecting victim. At one place a boiling spring rises from the bottom of the stream with such force that the surface of the water is raised a couple of feet or more above the general level, and the sound of escaping steam is fearfully suggestive of possible eruption. lyarge ^mz3^^^^ LIVStyY FUNERAI., LIVINGSTON. fragments of pumice stone abound, showing conclusively that at one time this peaceful region must have echoed to the dreadful sounds of bursting volcanoes and devastating earthquakes. During the afternoon we returned, very reluctanly and slowl}^, now on one shore, now across to the other, exploring bays, discov- ing waterfalls, some of considerable extent, whose merrj^ music runs on through the whole year unchecked by winter's frost or summer's drouth. About three o'clock we were overtaken by one of tliose showers that arise so suddenly in this latitude, but our worthy guide was not to be surprised. Warned by signs of which we were quite ignorant, he made for a little cove, sheltered on the windward side by a towering wall of rock, where he dropped anchor, and in less than five minutes stretched a water proof awn- ' A HoosiER IN Honduras. 47 ing that completely protected us from the rain. But it was quickly over, and the sun striking through the retreating clouds gave us one of the finest effects of the day. Every trembling leaf supported a diamond of its own, whose dazzling brilliancy put to shame the gems of royalt5^ We arrived at port just as the sinking sun cast his last golden rays on the eastern hills. The black storm clouds that a few hours previous looked so threatening now lay on the distant horizon at the base of Mt. Omoa, reflecting all the bright tints of the dying day, their softened outlines melting away in the ros}^ haze that pre- cedes the sudden falling of the tropical night. From Ivivingston we went to Santa Thomas, having chartered a five ton sloop the "Mar>^ Ellen," manned by three coal black sailors from Belize. We arrived one Sunday evening about eight p. M., just in time to witness the performance of some stroling acrobats from Mexico. The scene was a novel one. They had arranged their trapeze across the principal street near the wharf, in front of the cuartel or barracks, where a half dozen ragged soldiers dragged out a weary^ existence, and who seemed very thankful for the temporary excitement. The soldiers ran about assisting the showman in every way they could, even giving up their quarters for a dressing room, from whence the actors presently appeared, their straw colored tights embroidered with gold and sil- ver tinsel, faces powdered and painted in the most approved style, high pointed caps and a string of small bells attached to their belts, which jingled most musically. The scene was illuminated by a row of oil lamps and the audience consisted of perhaps two hun- dred men, women and children. They were seated on the ground on both sides of the narrow road, the ladies with shawls over their heads smoking and laughing incessantly. The ruddy glare of the torches, the strange costumes and the babel of Indian-Spanish all combined to form a striking picture. The actors acquitted them- selves in a creditable manner and must have been highly elated by the success of their performance. The crowd was good natured and not over critical, the applause frequent and prolonged, and when the perspiring comedians doffed their clown hats and made their pilgrimage through the audience they were rewarded by a shower of reals, each of which was acknowledged by a bow and a grimace that caused shouts of merriment. 48 A HoosiER IN Honduras. Santa Thomas does not boast of a hotel, but we found quarters in a private house, where we were treated with the greatest cour- tes}', as well as to all the delicacies of the season, which consisted is this instance of the usual frijoles and tortillas with the addition of a piece of fresh pork and a cup of milk, the latter being a treat that was highly appreciated. Fruit growing is the principal industry of Santa Thomas, mostly bananas; having been requested to furnish some information on this subject, I, therefore, began to look around for facts and figures and presently found quite a lot. How much we owe to the fierce and uncompromising compiler of statistics! His bold spirit knows not fear — he seeks the depth of the tropical for- est, he delves in darksome mines, climbs lofty mountains, dives •■JIM." into the sea and measures the floor thereof — awhile he tarries in the sunny south — anon seeketh the frozen north, no height to great, no depth to vast, no region to remote — he is the hardy pioneer of human knowledge, pushing his way into the wild wilderness of undiscovered facts that hedge us about on every side. He return- eth like a general at the head of an army — of figures — figures in lines, in colums, in squares, figures in companies, in regiments, in battalions, an invincible array of totals that stagger the intellect; but I feel very grateful to one of these fearless adventurers, who has. given the material for the following brief chapter on bananas. CHAPTER III. some;thing about bananas — arrivk at puerto CORTKZ — A TOUCH OF THK CHII.I.S — A MODEIv HOTEIv- Although extensively cultivated along the entire coast line of Central America and the West Indies, this fruit is said to attain the highest degree of perfection along the eastern shore of Guatemala and the north coast of Honduras. This maj^ be true, or it may be a fancy, fondly cherished by growers whose fortune it is to be located within this favored belt. These thoughts were suggested by watching a train of mules that just passed the door, each laden with from four to six huge bunches. The reluctant animals were urged on by a half dozen Mozo's, whose dark, swarthy skin, restless black eyes and unkempt locks gave them an appearance of wild ferocity, quite out of harm- ony with their mild lazy dispositions. This noisy cavalcade came from a large plantation at the foot of the mountain just back of the village, from the overseer of which I have gleaned the information contained in this article. The fruit, he informs me, is all contracted for by New York and New Orleans companies, between whom there is great rivalry, and frequently collisions occur of an ugly nature. On several occasions they have assumed so serious a character as to require the interference of the militia. The trade has developed rapidly during the past five years and it is claimed that the importations of this year will exceed 10,000,- 000 bunches, divided between New York, New Orleans, Boston, Philadelphia and Baltimore, New York taking the lead with about 3,500,000, or 140 cargoes of 25,000 bunches each. In 1830 the first full cargo of red bananas was entered at New York and con- sisted of 1,500 bunches, a quantity so enormous that the daring pioneer in this trade was looked upon as a "crank," harmless, perhaps, but certainly crazy. To give a better idea of the present proportions of this industry 50 A HoosiER IN Honduras. aud its rapidly increasing dimensions, I submit the following offi- cial figures giving the importations for 1887-8: 1887— 1888— New York • 2,461,355 3,021,640 New Orleans 2,153,143 2,541,075 Boston 454,751 1,053,729 Philadelphia 315,560 1,151,938 Baltimore 529,663 280,692 5,914,472 8,049,074 This shows a gain in one 5'^ear of 2,134,602 bunches. These figures are certainly encouraging to those who contemplate open- ing plantations. I am told by growers here that a profit of $75 per acre can be realized with ordinary care and this, it is claimed, may be considerably increased by careful cultivation. One grower assured me that he had netted $150 per acre, but I am convinced that this was an exceptional experience. Probably a safe estimate would be $50 per acre for the first year and $60 for the next ten years. However, a net profit of $25 an acre would be better than a gold mine, without any of the risks attending such enterprises, for while the profits of fruit raising are enormous, they are at the same time very sure, for of all tropical productions, this is the one most likely to succeed with the inexperienced planter. The banana delights in a warm, moist soil, in the neighbor- hood of the sea, the salt breeze being essential to its highest devel- opment. The best season for starting a "walk" or plantation, is from the middle of May to the middle of June. The bush is first cut and burned, the ground carefully cleared of all stones, weeds, etc., and the soil loosened to a depth of ten inches or a foot. The suckers are now taken from the parent stem. Strong, vigor- ous shoots should be selected from two to three feet high. These are cut about eight inches above the neck and placed in a slanting direction in the holes prepared for them and covered with earth, leaving only about two inches exposed. The plants mature in from 10 to 12 months, each producing a bunch of fruit averaging about 60 pounds, though specimens weighing from 90 to 100 pounds, are not rare. There are several varieties of bananas, among which may be mentioned the red, yellow, dwarf and giant; but those most in favor in this region are known locally as the "Doubloon," "China" A HoosiER IN Honduras. 51 and "Fig." The red variety is almost entirely confined to the islands of Cuba, Jamaica and Hayti, while the yellow is most pop- ular on the coast, and, I believe, commands the best market in the States. The dwarf is found in the interior among the mountains, often flourishing at an elevation of 5,000 feet. It is of unexcelled flavor, but to small for profitable cultivation, being only three inches in length. The banana is not a native of America, as many suppose, but was introduced by the Spaniards shortly after the discovery of the country. By the middle of the sixteenth century it had become one of the principal food products of the newly discovered islands. It is the most nutritious of all known fruits, and forms the princi- pal food of millions of inhabitants of tropical countries residing within thirty degrees of the equator. The plantain is a variety of banana little known outside of the region where it produced and a small section of the Southern States, where it is highly esteemed. To the casual observer the only dif- ference between the two products is in the size of the plant and fruit. The banana, so-called, attains a height of 18 or 20 feet, while the plaintain seldom exceeds 12 or 15 feet; but while the stalk of the the plantain is the smallest, the fruit is much the larg- est. The banana is usually eaten raw, while the plantain is nearly always cooked — either boiled, fried or roasted. I^ike the banana, the plantain does best near the sea. Its cultivation is the same, each stalk producing a single cluster of fruit. When its mission is ended its place is filled by a sucker growing from the root. The fruit of the plantain is preserved by drying, and in. some instances ground or powdered in a mortar. This product is known as "plantain meal," and is made into a number of palatable and nourishing dishes. It also produces a fine and wholesome quality of starch. It has also been utilized in the manufacture of wine, the quality of the beverage being pronounced excellent. A dis- tillery for this purpose was established a few years ago in Hon- duras, but proved a failure, financially. To give an idea of the nutritive quality of the plantain, it is asserted on good authority that a piece of ground 60 feet square will produce 4,000 pounds of fruit, which will support 50 persons two weeks, while the same space planted in wheat would not afford sustenance to more than one person for the same length of 52 A HoosiER IN Honduras. time. This explains in a large measure the lazy, shiftless habits of the natives; living in a climate with an average temperature of 80 degrees, houses are only necessary as a protection from the fierce rays of the sun or the drenching tropical rains. For this purpose four poles set in the ground surmounted by a high, pointed roof, thatched with palm leaves, answers evers' requirement. Clothing is not worth mentioning as the children wear none and the parents little more. With a few days work the husband can provide his family with the necessities of life for the whole year, therefore the head of the house ma)^ be seen swinging idl}' in a hammock, enjoy- ing his cigarette, while his good wife prepares the meal of boiled plantains which she has just cut from the stalk that shades the hut. A plantation once established will continue to produce for about 15 years, requiring no special cultivation other than to reap the harvest and remove the dead stalks. At the end of this time it will be found profitable to break new ground. lyand suitable for this purpose can be secured at an expense of $1.00 to $5.00 per acre, according to the location. Although the fruit is maturing every month in the j^ear, the banana season proper begins in Feb- ruar}^ and continues until Jul}-; March, April, and May being the months when the business is at its best. I am informed that a mill for grinding bananas on a large scale has recently been started at Port Limon, Costa Rica, but am unable to say what success has attended the venture which represents a considerable capital, principally from the north. We left Santa Thomas one bright morning, arriving at Puerto Cortez just as the sun was sinking into the troubled waters of the gulf, which were now considerable agitated b}' a brisk breeze, that had suddenly sprung up, "just to see us into port in good style," so our dusk}^ captain declared. From 10 a. m. until 3 p. m. we enjoyed a dead calm, not the ghost of a zepher appeared during those five burning hours. The "Mary Kllen" lay like a log, rolling uneasih' with the swell that rose and fell, with an irregular and desponding motion, as though old ocean was slowly dying, and these fitful heavings might be her last convulsive gasps. The heat was intense, the air was like the breath from a furnace, the distant shore looked like a long, pale green ribbon trembling above the water. A far-away island A HoosiER IN Honduras. 53 seemed dancing between sea and sky. The heat was fervent — that was all. We had often seen this word, often heard it repeated, but never until this day did we have any idea of its terrible mean- ing. The sun never appeared so close. It seemed like a great, red-hot globe that was gradually, but surely swooping down upon ns. The sea, smooth as molten glass, flung back the burning air in long, wavering lines, and between the blazing sky and the sim- mering sea we hung, helpless, hopeless, blistering. All through these hours the captain sat at the helm, whistling a low plaintive melody or monody. It was the sailors prayer to his patron saint, San Antonia, at whose wall, blows the wind, fair or ill — so our captain firmly believed; so, while the rest of us sought the slim line of shade cast by the idly flapping sail and crouched there, sweltering and envying a school of porpoises, who were playing a noisy game a few hundred yards away, or wishing we were one of those huge green turtles that now and then floated by, so calm and comfortable, independent of wind and wave. Our good captain held his place, his eyes fixed on a distant point on the horizon, which had not varried a degree for ages, it seemed to us, and whis- tled — very low, but very persistently — occasionally varrying the monotony by the spoken words, which we understood to be, simply a translation of the whistled tune and run something like this : "San Antonia — San Antonia, hear a sailor's prayer, A prayer for wind, not wild and wailing. Just a gentle breeze, for sailing, San Antonia — San Antonia, ruler of the air." About three o'clock in the afternoon the sailor's patron saint seemed suddenly to become aware that someone was calling him, for about that hour the sail stretched itself once or twice, then become taut. The burnished water was broken by a thousand rip- ples, with here and there a tiny white cap in the distance, then more, and more, until after a little while the whole ocean seemed to be trying to run over itself, huge piles of dark green water would rise up like a wall only to come tumbling down with a crash on the heels of another roller. On we flew, grandly, gloriously, delight- fully. The "Mary Ellen" was herself again, and the sailors faith in San Antonia and the magic whistle was mightily increased. So we came into port as our captain observed in "good style," just as the sun was sinking into the tumbling waters of the gulf. The 54 A HoosiER IN Honduras. houses in the distant village were touched by the golden glow that lingers but a moment after the sun disappears. We could pick out the office of the American Consular Agent, the barracks, the sta- tion, the home and office of the "Commandantee," or commanding officer, a broad low structure standing upon stilts some six or eight feet above the ground; meanwhile we were waited upon by the alcalde accompanied by a quartette of ragged soldiers, who having examined our papers and cargo, we were accorded the libert}" of the port, but having heard of the clouds of mosquitoes and sand flies that rise out of the neighboring swamps about sunset, we determined to spend the night on deck and visit the town early in "MARY ELLEN." the morning. We, therefore, spread our blankets and stretched ourselves thereon, the air was now delightfully cool, the slight rocking of the vessel was soothing in the extreme — so, smoking and talking, we watched the lights twinkling over in the village and listened in a half dream to the music that floated out across the water from the "Hotel," where some unfortunate traveller was bravely seeking forgetfulness of the hour, by vigorously sawing on a fiddle — but at last the lights were extinguished, the unfortunate traveller either succeeded in drowning his sorrow or gave up the attempt and the only voice of the night was the low wash of the waves about the prow of the boat, as she lay gently tugging at her anchor. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 55 We landed early in the morning and soon found our way to the only hotel, and while our practical and progressive friend looked after the commercial interests of his house, which was rep- resented here by an agency, the writer, as the licensed idler of the party, roamed about the village seeking whom he might devour. In the course of his prowlings, he found himself in the office of the American Consular Agent at that time represented by Mr. Henry Seymour. Mr. Seymour was a bright, young fellow, a native of Grand Rapids, Michigan, and the building in which he was located was constructed in his native town and shipped to this place, a dis- tance of about 3,000 miles and "set up" by native workmen at a cost of something less than six hundred dollars. The house con- sisted of three good-sized rooms with a veranda across the front ; a double roof, allowing an air space of about one foot between, mak- ing the Consular office one of the coolest spots in the village, there- fore, it was quite natural that we should drop in there and help our friend put in the time that appeared to drag somewhat heavily — as Consulur business seemed very quiet. Henry was quite communi- cative and we profited thereby, and some of the knowledge gained in those interviews will be given here, and no extra charge made. This is certainly liberal, considering the distance we had traveled to secure the information. Among other things, we made special inquiries about the healthfulness of the place. "Well," he replied, ' ' Puerto Cortez is without doubt the healthiest point on the coast of Central America. Although a constant resident here for six years I have never known what it is to be sick — not even for a single day. ' ' This seemed remarkable and we sat a long while thinking it over, also thinking of the numerous attacks of sore throat, coughs, colds, tussels with la grippe, bilious and malarial fevers with which we had contended during the same period in a climate where the temperature varies from 70 degrees above freez- ing in the summer to 50 degrees below in the winter, or in other words, where we enjoy a range of 120 degrees between the extremes of heat and cold and the thermometer frequently records a variation of 20, 30, 40 and sometimes as high as 50 degrees, in less than twenty-four hours. "Here" continued Mr. Seymour, "we have an average summer temperature of 85 degrees, which, tempered as it is by the delightful sea breeze, is far from oppressive; during the dry, or winter season, the average falls to about 75 degrees, and 56 A HoosiER IN Honduras. this slight change is accomplished so gradually that the difference is not perceived, consequently there is no occasion to make any change in clothing or housekeeping arrangements on account of varying seasons. Our winters correspond with the month of June in the northern states, while our summers are cooler than the months of July and August in New York or Boston. ' ' The prospect was charming. From where w^e sat we could look across the tranquil bay, beyond wdiich, rising to the very clouds, was the dim outline of the mountains of Omoa. In the foreground a group of cocoanut trees afforded a wdde patch of deep shade, where a lot of native children were playing. They were not burdened with clothes and we could not but admire the ease and freedom of their motions. The longer we gazed on this pleas- ant scene, the more infatuated we became. The fierce blasts of winter with their suggestive hints of coal bills, new overcoats and underwear, to say nothing of boots, scarfs, fur caps and capes for each of the children, were here unknown. lyater in the day we met quite a number of old residents, persons who had become acclimated, but who, for some reason did not appear very robust, but all told the same story — "never knew what it was to be laid up" and "never sick a day," were the sterotyped phrases, and never in all our travels on that coast, w^ere we able to find a man who had ever been ill. Threats and bribery alike failed to produce a single witness adverse to the salubrity of this wonderful climate. Men differed politically, religiously, socially; they took sides on questions of finance and government measures, and party spirit sometimes ran to bitter extremes, but on the subject of clim- ate and health there was but one voice — Honduras possessed the finest climate in the w^orld and the most conducive to long life and happiness. That evening we wrote a short note to our wife — the wife of our bosom — who had stood by us through many howling winters in that far north land and this was to inform her that w^e had found a haven of rest, but here is the letter itself: My dear Mary Jane — I have found a perfect paradise, where sick- ness, sorrow and de — December are unknown, only lovely May and sweet September. It is too glorious to think about. Two bright seasons compose the blissful year, a land of beauty and plenty, where golden fruits drop at one's feet, w^here children need no boots — only frilled collars and straw hats, were happy mothers A HoosiER IN Honduras. 57 have nothing to do but lie in hammocks and watch the darling lit- tle creatures at their play under the spreading fronds of the cocoa- nut trees. Sell off everything and come at once. Excuse haste I'm looking for a house. Will write again in a day or two. " It then occured to us that there would be no steamer leavipg for the north for several days, so there was no hurry. We would leave the letter open and perhaps might be able to add that the house had been secured. Three of four days later we called again at the office of the American Consular Agency and were greatly surprised to find that gay, young representative stretched at full length on a cot — looking — well, very much like a sick man. His iace was pale, his voice weak, and while his greeting was cordial it lacked the heartiness that marked our first meeting. "Look here old fellow" we said, "what's wrong? You seem to be under the weather, what has happened, lost a consignment, or a friend surely not ill?" The consul did not reply at once, but after a moments pause, during which he lay quite still with eyes closed he answered, but in a voice so trembling and broken that we could hardly believe it was the same that had charmed us on the occasion of our first call. "No — loss — of — business — or friend" he said in a far away tone that was touching to hear, "and — and not sick no— not sick." The last words seemed to cost great effort and weie accompanied by a ghastly, shivering smile that fairly rattled as it made its escape between his tightly set teeth. It was a grave- yard smile — a smile that was full of horrible suggestions it was like the fitful gleam of the sexton's lantern among the tombs at mid-night. "Not sick— no— not sick," he repeated the words feebly; and with a mournful cadence that touched our heart but its hard to find an outlet for ones" sympathy when the object of ones solicitude insists they are not ailing in the least. We sug-- gested timidly, "Up a trifle late, or perhaps the brandy was just a wee bit strong." "No— not — that — just a touch— a touch of— of chills — chills and — and fever — every — everybody has them its nothing— its nothing— at— at all — please throw that— blanket over — my — feet — there — thanks — its nothing. A dose of pills 10 grains of quinine — a couple of hours sleep — and you feel like a new man." This was quite a revelation to us, but we were glad to know that Henry was not sick. It is true he shook till his cot rattled half way across the room, but he did this simply because it 58 A HoosiER IN Honduras. was the custom of the couutry. He was perfectly well. We looked about a little more and found "everybody" had them, and had them bad. It was a part of the program and a man who refused to shake with his fellows, would be regarded as mean and selfish and would be looked upon with suspicion if not with fear. While my friend had not been "sick a day" he had lost on an average fifty days every year, or about one year out of the six. One year of freezing and burning by turns, one solid year of torture — but "never sick." We added a postscript to our letter. "Do not make any change at present. Don't think it would pay to have a sale ju.st now, besides there are no houses vacant at this season. While the people know nothing of sickness, they have strange shivering spells during which their teeth rattle like the "first bones" in a minstrel show, only louder and wilder. Then th(j oranges are not ripe and the cocoanuts often fall on the heads of the children and kill them. There are only two months in the year, but you might not like this arrangement of the calander, so please wait. ' ' A few days later we began to feel that we were attracting atten- tion — that we were being talked about. The hotel loungers would gather in little groups consulting in whispers and frequently one or another of the crowd would point over his shoulder in our dir- ection, and from time to time some remark would be overheard, which plainly indicated that we were being discussed — and criti- cised severly, for in all the time we had been at the port, we had not had a chill and the natives felt that we were puffed up and proud and not inclined to be sociable. Now we did not wish to create a bad impression, and as soon as we fairly understood the sentiment of the community, we sent word around that we would 'have "a shake" at 3 p. m. A change occured. Everyone now seemed pleased to meet us. There was no more suspicious looks and whispered consultations. We were welcomed like a brother. "NEVER FEIvT BETTER." A HoosiER IN Honduras. 59 We have often thought since then that it would be almost as pleas- ant to be sick. The first sensation was an irresistable desire to lie down and the next a want-to-go-home feeling that was quite crush- ing, then a chill stole silently down our back. In a few minutes a dozen were on the field, chasing each other up and down our spinal column and taking occasional excursions down to our toes. This lasted an hour, during which we could not get enough blank- ets, though they were piled up about two feet high all over us. Suddenly came a change. Our head began to burn, then a flash of heat dashed in among the racing chills and for ten minutes it was a struggle which would win, but by degrees the fever gained and at last occupied the whole ground. The heat seemed unbear- able. The blankets were scattered in every direction. Such rack- ing pains in back and limbs, such bursting headache, such thirst. Finally we slept, a troubled sleep, during which we dreamed of all the cooling drinks we had ever heard. Even visions of rhe old spring house at home, with its rows of milk pans half submerged in the clear, cold water, came to torment us, but at last it was over, and as Henry had told us, we felt like a "new man," but we also felt as though we had lost several years in making the change, how- ever, we were now acclimated and in sympathy with our townsmen and that is worth a great deal. We always make a point of stopping at the best hotel — the best in Honduras are not usually too good. The "Ameri- can" was not an exception to the rule — and this description is given free — we feel that we ought to be paid for it, but when we remember how many things we got that were not in the bill of fare, we think the least we can do is to give the "American" a free notice. It is not a very large house, and has not been painted since the Conquest of Mexico, and at the time of our visit was not crowded. By the way, it is an odd circumstance that almost every Hotel in Central America is dubbed the "American," beginning at lyivingston, we find an "American House" in every town boasting a tavern, even to the capitol city. The captain of the Breakwater had described the structure so minutely that we had little difficulty in finding it, besides it had a small sign nailed up in front. We walked in but the clerk was out. The office was a small room with board partitions, on which were traced many strange names in pencil and chalk, also a few lager beer cards and some legal 60 A HoosiER IN Honduras. notices in Spanish. The ceiling was formed by stretching muslin across the joists. It must have been done a long time ago, as it was deeply stained and torn. Long shreds hung down in fanciful patterns. From various holes the cunning spider constructed his funnel shaped trap and throve mightily. The plank floor was bare, at least it would have been after a scrubbing. In one corner rested a chair with a broken leg, in another was one with a broken back, in an adjoining apartment, which seemed to be a sort of reading room, we found the third chair, a rocker, which was quite robust, with the exception of a broken arm. No one seemed to be at home, if we except a parrot, who was perched on a small table and who kept muttering morosly. We selected the strongest of the invalid chairs, and feeling that we were taking a mean advantage of one .so helpless, seated ourselves as lightly as possible and awaited developments. After we had received calls from a hen and brood of chickens, a monkey and a lean hun- gry-looking dog, the landlady herself appeared, a creole of vast pro- portions. She was smoking a cigarette, but she spoke Knglish, which was a comfort, and we soon came to an understanding. We were to have coffee at 6 a. m.-, breakfast 10:30 a. m., dinner at 4:30 p. M., tea at 7 p. m., and an upstairs room, all for the very reasonable sum of $2.00 per diem. At 10:30 we appeared on the scene, but no indications of the promised meal. An interview with the landlady was not particularly satisfactory. "Bekfust soon ready," she said, and no more information was to be had. We waited — 11 o'clock, 11:30, still no "signs." Meanwhile three Americans and three Spaniards had gathered in. The natives took possession of the helpless chairs and puffed away at their cigarettes quite contentedly. The Americans tramped across the room in restless rage, indulg- ing their feelings from time to time by outbursts of language that could hardly be worked into a Sunday school oration, no matter how carefully the selection might be made. It was past 12 o'clock when a small darky appeared: "Bekfust sah," as he. spoke these words he disappeared through a dark passage. We all followed and found the dining hall about such a room as the office, with a long rickety table in the center, around which the guests seated themselves and each one reached forth and helped himself. Who ever placed the breakfast on the table had vanished and we were left in undisturbed possession, being interrupted only A HoosiER IN Honduras. 61 once by the entrance of a very small girl of ebony complexion, who brought each a glass of water. At the end of the meal she came again with a pot full of black coffee. The following extract from a letter, published in the Pittsburg Post, contains a pretty faithful description of life at the port at the time of our visit: "In the center of the table was a large dish containing the first course, soup — bean soup. Some one had the hardihood to ladle out a portion and gently slid the dish before his left hand neighbor, on the old principle of "cut to the right and deal to the left." In this way the tureen traveled the whole length of the table. Second course, roast beef, which the same hardy pioneer started on its round in the same way. With the beef we had boiled rice, plantains, casava and frijoles, Bread, but no butter. Frijoles are simply black beans cooked down to a thick pasty mass, seasoned with salt and pepper. Casava is a root, which, when thoroughl}^ cooked, and not to old, very much resembles our Irish potatoe, but when only half done is like so much wood. When the second course was disposed of the small colored girl appeared again, removed the plates and put in their place a cup and saucer. Then she brought a coffee-pot and a bowl of sugar. These articles made the round of the table, each one pouring out a cupful of the mixture, black and strong beyond expression. We then lit cigars and sipped the compound in true Spanish style. During the pro- gress of the meal the chickens came in to pick up the crumbs and look after the floor in a general way, which they did very thor- oughly in places. This description is not exaggerated, but rather underdrawn, every meal was a repetition. For a few days it was not so bad, but as time rolled on, it became intolerable and we formed the habit of buying canned fruits, pineapples, pickles, etc. to help out. When evening came we asked to be shown our room. The same diminitive colored girl lit a candle and started upstairs, we followed and were more than pleased, as we had not expected such a large apartment, in fact this room included the whole second floor. We told the girl we had no use for so many cots. There were 16 scattered around, each with its little canopy of mos- quito bar. Then she informed us that these cots were for the gen- eral use of the guests, and that each "gen'l'man" had an "upstairs'* 62 A HoosiER IN Honduras. room. It was the only room. We felt somewhat abashed. We had never had a whole hovise placed at our disposal, with so many privileges before. Silently and swiftly we crept into one of the lit- tle tents; for the sandfly was there, — and his business was urgent. While we lay there thinking of all the advantages we enjoyed, a light appeared and one of the boarders quickly divested himself of his outer covering and shot under the side of the net. He did not stop to blow out the candle and we could easily see him. He was looking for something. Presently his hand came up slowly, then down with a crash. He had caught it. After a little more skirm- ishing around he lay down, apparenth^ satisfied. Nearly everyone carried gold watches, and more or less cash, but no one seemed to have any fear of robbers and took no precau- tion whatever. I afterwards learned that the doors were left open all night. It is but just to say that we never knew of any loss from theft, this may be owing to lack of energy on part of the native — but if j'ou please, you may attribute it to his honesty. In order that strangers may receive a proper impression of the dignit}' and strength of the Republic as a militar}- power, it is con- sidered necessary to have a detachment of soldiers stationed in every village. And it is well, for the impression is generally deep and lasting. At this port, which is the principal one on the Atlan- tic coast, there are 12 of these native warriors quartered in an old tumble-down building, known as the "Quartel. " Eleven of them sleep while one leans lazily on his musket to keep them from all harm. This one is known as the "guardian angel." All are bare- foot, all ragged — and not too clean. All are genuine natives, Hon- durians, which means a mixture of Indian, negro and Spaniard. The}^ are dark-skinned, with black e3^es, and shocks of blach hair which hangs down over their foreheads, they are altogether with- out enterprise and have a hungry, hopeless look. Here they laj^ week after week, month after month, with no variation in their daily routine. The}' receive 2 reals a day (25 cents,) and out of this sum the}' must support themselves. The government furnishes nothing but uniforms, for which it charges a fair price — so fair, indeed, that the men have to wear a suit to tatters before they can get another. The only active duty they have to perform is at night, when the mosquitoes and sand flies come down on their defenseless quarters in blinding swarms. To make this dismal sea- A HoosiER IN Honduras. 63 son somewhat more bearable, they light fires about the place just before sunset and cover them with green wood and grass, produc- ing a dense smoke. In this way they spend the night in an active campaign against any invisible enemy. By the way, I wish to state that, while these insects exist here in great numbers, they are not so large or dangerous as some writers would have you believe. I have made a special study of this subject. That the mosquitoes of Central America have been grossly and maliciously misrepresented, there can be no doubt. One writer states that "they are fully as large as a Durham cow," with "wings that spread 50 feet," that "they carry a steel-pointed biir75 feet long," that they reach across "the street tap a man under the ear and draw all the blood out of him before he can turn around," and that the "victim falls to the ground a shriveled, corpse, so light that the winds blow him about like a dead leaf." This is all romance and should have no weight with the reader. I have examined hundreds of specimens, and have never seen one two feet long. They do not carry of children, and it is all a hoax about their boring through the thick wall of a house to reach their prey. The truth is, the very largest will not weigh five pounds, and their bills are not as long as some tailors, and not nearly so sharp. It gives me great pleasure to be able, from personal exper- ience, to correct these misstatements of unprincipled travelers, and I would say to all who contemplate a visit to this delightful region, do not be afraid. — You can easily defend yourselves from the largest andfierciest mosquito with an ordinary "machete," or short sword, which all the natives carry for this— and other pur- poses. The Country is beautiful with its cocoanut walks and orange groves and endless variety of flowering vines and shrubs. The harbor of Puerto Cortez is one of the finest on the coast, guarded by lofty mountains on the south and by a long strip of level land on the north. It is about five miles long and three wide, and so deep that the largest vessels can approach within a stones throw of the shore almost. Viewed from the sea the town presents a very pretty pic- ture, its white houses gleaming among the deep green tropical fol- iage'. It is also the starting point of the only railroad in the State, which makes it commercially the most important town on the coast. Banana culture is the main industry, 5000 bunches being 64 A HoosiER IN Honduras. shipped every week from this point alone. While we were at the port we witnessed the trial of a new engine or locomotive intended for the famous railroad above referred to, which connects this place with San Pedro, thirty-six miles inland. By the way, the maps show this road as completed to Amapala on the Pacific coast, but like most other Central American enterprises, this great continen- tal line piled up a debt of $27,000,000 in the first thirty-six miles of its way, and it was thought best to stop it before it got into the mountains where it might prove unmanageable. The locomotive refered to was not exactly new but had been made to look quite respectable by paint and polish. It was a sec- ond hand affair picked up at New Orleans by General Kraft, who practicall}^ controlled the road at this time. This was a great event. For twenty years, more 'or less, the natives had watched the stackless old engine drag its weary way through the one long street, and when the huge machine was placed on the track in all its glory of brass, with a huge stack and double whistle, the peo- were fairly wild, although half afraid of the monster, which now •threw out smoke and sparks like a volcanoe and rushed along at the unheard of speed of 20 miles an hour. The enthusiasm was unbounded. The superintendent, sub-officers, with the alcalde and all the local great men, were seated in the tender waving their hats and bowing to the assembled multitude who answered with deafening cheers. After making three trips from the Custom House to the L/agoon, a distance of about three miles, the test was decided to be satisfactory and the machine accepted. Everybody drank to the road and its management, to the president, whose name was painted in bold characters on the pilot, to his cabinet, to the U. S. and her representatives, to everybody, and to everything. The joy was universal, and no wonder — for 5^ears the time between the port and San Pedro had averaged ten hours and very often, owing to a breakdown, two whole days would be spent on the road — but alas! for human hopes — the test had been made on the hard road bed along the shore which owing to its proximity to the superintendent's office had been kept in pretty good condi- tion, and it never occured to the eager purchasers to extend the trial trip to San Pedro. The first trip out, the heavy engine crushed the road into the earth and toppled over, sustaining considerable damage. Finally it was dragged back to the ' 'lagoon' ' A HoosiER IN Honduras. 65 where are situated the repair shops, and where, most likely, it is lying to this da}^ At all events the poor old cripple that had done service for so many years was recalled, and on our last visit was still carrying freight and passengers at irregular intervals, at the very safe speed of three miles an hour. ' ' Quite a number of Americans have recently established cocoa- nut plantations on this coast, and the neighboring islands, ahll when we consider the small capitol required, the certainty of success, and the comfortable profits, it is surprising that more have not followed their example. With proper care this thrifty palm begins to bear the fourth or fifth 5^ear from planting, and continues without inter- missions for fifty years at least, just how much longer no one seems to know, though we were shown trees that were said to be sevent)'- five years old, that were still producing a fair qualit}' of nuts. A "walk" once established, the proprieter maj'^ rest assured that his future is provided for, as far as income is concerned, as the demand bids fair to exceed the supply for a long time to come. Each tree in full bearing is worth from two to three dollars per annum, or from $120 to $180 per acre. The only labor required is to go over the ground at stated seasons and gather the fallen nuts into piles at convenient distances from the shore, from whence they will be taken by vessels ingaged in the fruit trade, the cash being paid as soon as the load is complete. Cocoanuts have no season, but are constantly maturing through- out the year, on each tree will be found nuts in every stage of growth, from the blossom to those fully ripe. This tree loves the sea and flourishes best within the sound of the surf. The salt breath of the ocean is necessary to insure perfection. A Jamaica planter informed the writer that the cost of setting a grove on that island, including all expenses, until it begins to bear, will not exceed $40 per acre^what could be more delightful than a home in this land of perpetual summer, and ever blooming flowers, surrounded by the tall palms, which la}' their wealth at 3^our feet while you swing in your hammock listening to the murmur of the sea, or the melancholy paint of the musical mosquito. CHAPTER IV. A CRUISE AIvONG THE NORTH COAST OF HONDURAS TO TRUXII,I,0 — IvANDING IN THE BREAKERS — STUDY A WATERSPOUT — . WALKER THE FILIBUSTER — SPANISH CRUELTY AND ENGLISH PERFEDY. One day it occurred to us, that we had seen enough of Puerto Cortez. The captain of a Utilla Sloop, "The Sea Gull," of nine tons burden, happened to be on hand with an empty vessel, waiting for a commision. Having learned that he was one of the best sailors in the south, and that he was not averse to a cruise of a month, we chartered the vessel, and soon transfered our belongings to its hold, after which we bid adieu to our many friends and went aboard about 3 p. m. We rejoiced to again breathe the free air of the sea and feel the motion of the boat as it answered to the swell that was now running quite high, owing to a stiff breeze from the north, which drove the waters of the gulf through the narrow entrance of the harbor and piled them up until they splashed among the piles supporting the old store-house, which we had just abandoned and which ordinarily stood fifty feet from the shore. We lay at anchor until about sun down, when the north wind fell, and shortly after the "land" breeze came in fitful puffs, then more steadily, until our sail filled and we were under way. Our crew now consisted of Capt. Brown and mate Roland, both white, natives of Jamaica, the latter acted in the double capacity of cook and common sailor; the passengers were three in number, the writer, his cousin and colored servant, James, sometimes called Santiago. James was a native of Mexico and a bright boy of his class. He spoke the Spanish language fluently, and was well versed in the strange dialect of the Caribs, which made his ser- vices valuable in dealing with the mixed population of the coast, who invested many a shining dollar through the enticing eloquence of this dusky trader. . We stopped at a number of small villages and did a thriving trade. There are no harbors along the north coast excepting 68 A HoosiER IN Honduras. those of Puerto Cortez and Truxillo, the latter being protected on one side only, is nothing to brag of, but the towns and vil- lages lying between those points are without harbors and landing is difficult and sometimes dangerous. Owing to the prevalence of the trade winds, there is usually a tremendous surf, and vessels are often detained several days on this account. This, of course, is a great disadvantage to these places, which otherwise are splen- didl)^ situated in the midst of the fruit belt. We made shore at Tela, in the ^nidst of a surf that threatened destruction to goods and passengers. Landing under such circum- stances is an experience to be remembered. The Captain and Roland are good oarsmen. They are in the small boat which is being tossed about like a bubble, now it strikes the sloop with a bang, the next instant is ten feet away, then back, up and down. The sloop is small and light, and rolls almost as bad as the yawl. The Captain is waiting for us to make the leap from the deck to his boat. We watch closely, the tenth part of a second too soon or too late, means a plunge into the sea. The water looks nice A HoosiER IN Honduras. 69 and cool, but a half dozen sharks have been following in our wake. They are large and hungry. We do not wish to meet them — we watch the little boat — it strikes the sloop with a crash. "Now!" shouts the captain, we leap wildly and fall in a heap, but safe. Then for the land. As we approach, the angry breakers roll higher and higher. The Captain is an expert. We ride the waves like bird, we approach the shore, the water is becoming rougher every instant, a great, green wall is piling up behind us, the captain shouts, we know he is shouting by the motion of his lips, but his words are lost — our ears are filled with the roar of the surf that is breaking along the coast for miles, it is louder than Niagara, every time we rise on the crest, of one of those green mountains we can see the shore — men are watching us — waiting for us — then we sink into a valley. For a moment nothing is vis- able but a streak of sky — up once more — then a shock, we have struck the sand, but fifty feet of shoal water still intervenes, men rush out to meet us — they motion us to jump on their backs. Our cousin is a light weight. He leaps nimbly on the shoulders of a stalwart native and is borne safely to the land. The captain, Roland and James all go safely. I hesitate, having never been carried since I can remember — don't like the idea— native looks weak — no other way. Indian says "come," only word of English he knows. I go, he trembles under me — will he reach the shore ? He hesitates, then, with a snort like a wild horse he staggers for- ward. I pity him, oEer to get down and help, but he don't under- stand and before I can make my meaning clear, he is on land.. "Kiramba," is the only word he utters as he falls on the sand, sprawling at full length. Thus we land at Tela, a village of huts, with a few orange trees and cocoanut palms and some small ban- ana plantations. A few soldiers, one of whom died during our visit and we saw him buried with scant ceremony in his ragged uniform, and without a coffin. Two incidents occured during our stay in this village, thatserve to fix the place indelibly in our minds. The first was the passing of a waterspout and as* it was the first event of the kind we ever wit- nessed, we were much impressed by the spectacle. The following account is taken from the Pittsburg Post: "About three o'clock this afternoon, while enjoying our usual siesta, we were aroused by a strange noise — it was unlike any- JO A HoosiER IX Honduras. thing I had heard, and I listened for a minute or so, trying to account for it without the trouble of getting up, for as yet I was only half awake. The air was heavy and close, as though charged with some noxious gas; breathing required an effort that was unnat- ural. We seemed to be under the shadow of some uncertain peril. The interior of the grove was dark as a deserted church. Meanwhile the mysterious din increased to a heavy rum- bling roar, to which were now added a variety of notes, sharp, shrill, hissing, at times so piercing as to arnount to a shriek, almost human in its intensit}'. There was also a succession of sharp reports with a crackling sound like that produced by the burning of a cane brake. Now fully awake I tumbled from my hammock in haste, and sought the source of all this commotion. Emerging from the deep shadows of the grove I was confronted by the most remarkable spectacle I had ever witnessed. Within a quarter of a mile of the shore a gigantic waterspout was moving slowly in a westerly dir- A WATERSPOUT. ection almost parallel with the line of breakers that lashed the coast. At this distance the appearance was peculiar and striking. A dark column rose from the water to the cloud above, which seemed torn by contending winds, so that great sections of the A HoosiER IN Honduras. 71 black curtain were every moment whipped off and went tumbling- downward only to be drawn within the terrible vortex and again sent skyward' and there scattered in a thousand fragments by the opposing forces above. Thus there was a constant downward rush of clouds at a short distance from the center of action, and a con- stant upward rush close to the rising column as they were drawn within the influence of the whirlwind. At the base of the pillar, which grew heavier and blacker every moment, the water was lashed into a state of fury quite inde- scribable. Clouds of spray obscured the sea for a distance of one hundred yards or more, beyond which it was comparitively smooth. Although frequent and vivid flashes of lightning played among the writhing masses of vapor, there was no following crash of thunder, which struck one as remarkable at the time, though I am now convinced that the sound was simply drowned, as it were, by the superior roar of wind and waves. The scene pre- sented was grand and fearful. The heavy brow of the approach- ino- cloud bulged downward as though ready to burst with the accumulated weight of water; the color of this advance guard was a dull olive, almost black, merging into a sulphurous yellow on the edges of the heavy folds, among which the lurid flashes o-leamed incessantly. It seemed like a hand-to-hand conflict between the forces of air and water, and we watched it with intense interest, and some apprehension, for several minutes, after which the wind seemed to have spent its strength, the stately shaft began to waver and soon broke near the center, the upper portion ming- ling with the clouds, the lower part falling back into the sea which soon became calm as the surrounding surface. Three minutes later the over-burdened clouds, unable longer to support the tremendous weight imposed on them, gave way, and the downpour that followed baffles description. It was not rain in the ordinary sense; the water did not fall in drops, but in streams,, producing a fine spray that hid all but the nearest objects. Although our house was situated on a high knoll it trembled under the pressure, and we seemed surrounded by the sea. Fortunately this did not last but a few seconds, else the very earth must have been washed away. As it was, the lower portion of the village was inundated and many houses destroyed. I have described in a feeble way the appearance of what is 72 A HoosiER IN Honduras. popularl}' known as a waterspout, but which is nothing more or less than a whirlwind of unusual violence, occuring on the water instead of land, and gathering up in its strong arms the spray from the waves, in place of dust, leaves and other light material encoun- tered when traversing the same distance over fields and woods. The primarj' cause of whirlwinds has never been satisfactorally explained. The commonly accepted theory is, that they are produced by the action of counter currents of air, that is, two currents, moving in opposite directions meet and instead of sliding along smoothly and peaceably, as they should, one will try to induce the other to change its course, which the other naturally refuses to do, the con- sequence is, a portion of air from either side becomes engaged in a violent tussel pulled to the right on one hand, to the left on the other, until in the confusion it forgets which side it belongs to, and gaining in strength, declares itself an independent body, and goes whirling along quite indifferent to all the laws of air, a windy rebel, full of blow and bluster! The only plausible, I should say reasonable, theory that has been advanced was given a few years ago by a writer who said the atmosphere surrounding the earth might be compared to a series of blankets, stretched one above the other, the dividing line usually being marked by clouds of various forms arranged in horizontal lines, their character varying according to their height. On certain occasions a stratum of very warm air lies immediately over the earth's surface, right above this we find a second stratum of cold air. The hot air being light presses upward with a con- stant effort to escape, but is held in place by an equally firm pres- sure from above, but it sometimes happens that the overlying blanket has been worn thin in places and the hot air taking advan- tage of the situation rips out a square and rushes through. News of the breach spreads rapidly, and soon all the warm air in the vicinity hurries forw^ard watching for an opportunity to crowd out into the cool space above. My authority goes on to say that the motion of the air near this opening is precisely the same as that produced in a basin of water by suddenly removing the stopper in the bottom. The rapid displacement of the lower portion causes a commotion which in a second or two extends to the surface, form- ing a minature whirlpool which continues to revolve until all the water has escaped. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 73 The accompanying illustration, from a sketch made on the spot, will give the reader some idea of a waterspout as viewed by the writer from a distance of one-fourth of a mile, or there about. Two miles out the sun is brighthly shining and the tiny white caps flash merrily. Far away, on the horizon, a couple of schooners bound for some southern port, are tranquiling sailing, apparently unconscious of their dangerous neighbor; but the captains have already noted the storm and carefully computed its distance, its speed and direction. They knew long ago that there was nothing to fear from this revolution of the winds. ' ' The other event which renders Tela quite unforgetable was the result of a trait peculiar to the native. While the experience was purely personal, its rehearsal will serve as an illustration of Hondurian character and for this purpose we again quote from the "Post." "The politeness of the Spaniards is proverbial. Sometimes it is excessive — I might say oppressive. They place their houses, furniture and servants at your disposal. Do you contemplate a journey, they will furnish horses as well as Mozos, and accompany you in person quite regardless of the sacrifice to their own inter- ests. If you admire an article you are at once informed that "it is yours." Yesterday my traveling companion, himself a man of family and a lover of children, stopped at a wayside cottage in quest of bananas. He says he was met in the doorway by a baby of the brunette type, a dark, rich, walnut color, with a shock of black tangled hair and great fishy, staring eyes. It was naked. With one dusky hand resting on the bamboo frame it aided its faltering steps, with the other it grasped a large piece ot "dulce" (native sugar,) which it sucked with evident satisfaction. Wishing to make a good impression at the start, and well knowing a mother's weakest point, he began to extol the infant's charms in the warm- est terms. Such lovely eyes! Such a heavenly complexion! Such a sweet expression! (literally true. ) He says he will never forget the feeling of amazement, followed by one of horror and disgust, when the 'polite senora thrust the squirming youngster into his arms saying, "take him, he is yours. ' I do not wish to ques- tion my friends veracity — but this sounds like a — well say a chestnut re-roasted. I had been suffering silently several days from a defective 74 A HoosiftR IN Honduras. tooth. One morning the pain was so great I could not conceal my anuo3'auce. It was a large, double molar, wayback in the upper jaw. I was almost frantic. There was no dentist within a hundred miles. Our good host, Don Jose, noticing my agitation, inquired the cause and at once offered his services. His father had practiced dentistrj^ years ago, and among the old heirlooms was a pair of forceps of ancient pattern. They were covered with a thick coating of rust — dark red — horribly suggestive. For a half hour I had been seriously contemplating self-destruction, but the moment nij'- importunate friend appeared with this frightful iustru- menf of emancipation the pain ceased, and life seemed a sweet and priceless possession. I hastened to assure him of my recovery and begged him not to trouble himself further, adding, that I should always feel under obligations for the unselfish interest manifested in my behalf. But he was not to be moved. The tooth should be taken out b}^ all means. It would not be any trouble,, on the contrar)^ he would consider it a personal favor to be allowed to ' 'serve senor. ' ' It would be a mark of respect and confidence that would be appreciated and treasured in his memory for years, he said. Meanwhile a crowd of natives had gathered about the door. His wife and daughter came in and added their entreaties to those of the ardent Don. The spectators were becoming restless. Murmurs of impatience were heard. Insinuations, muttered half aloud, reached my ears. Some of these were not exactly flattering to my vanity. 'Bockra man too much 'fraid.' This was more than my pride could bear. I offered myself an unwilling and trembling sacrifice to that man's vain ambition. Oh ! From Tela we went to Ceiba, where we were landed in the usual picturesque fashion. This pretty little city nestles at the foot of Conger Hoj^, the highest mountain in Honduras. It has a pop- ulation of about 4000. Being situated in the center of the banana belt, it enjoys a degree of prosperity unequaled by any town on the north coast. It is well built of frame and adobe houses, many of them neatly painted, their red-tiled roofs gleaming among banana and cocoanut ''walks," which abound on every side. I am told that the shipments of bananas from this point alone average about 100,000 bunches monthly dnring the bus)^ season, which includes April, May, June and July. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 75 The thunder of the surf makes endless music for the lover of nature, but the contending waves interfere sadly with the work of loading vessels which have to anchor about a mile away beyond the line of breakers. All fruit must be taken out in lighters, and the difficulty of "putting off" and landing in these raging waters can only be appreciated by those who have enjoyed the personal ex- perience. Often the sea is so rough that even the Caribs, who are expert sailors, are unable to launch a boat. At such times I have known steamers to lie nearly a week waiting for the angry waters to subside. The scenery in this vicinity is charming. The lofty dome-like crest of Conger Hoy rises to a height of 8,040 feet, clothed with verdure to its very top. This is an extinct volcano, and the shore is strewn with pumice stone thrown from its crater centuries ago, for it has not been active since the discovery of America. Some- times in the earl}^ morning a beautiful and startling effect is pro- duced. The base, shrouded in mist, seems far away, dim and indistinct, while the summit, towering far above the clouds, every projecting rock and shadowy ravine revealed by the slanting rays of the rising sun, seems thrust forward until it overhangs the town. So striking is this illusion at times that one can hardly resist the feeling of awe, almost of fear, inspired by the strange spectacle. MOUNT BONITA. To the westward stands the twin peak of Bonita, almost -as high and much more precipitous. The two are connected by a 76 A HoosiER IN Honduras. series of loft}' ridges, presenting in places an unbroken rock wall 2,000 feet high. It is only by comparison that the mind can grasp comprehensively such tremendous elevations. To do so, stand before the Masonic Temple (Chicago,) on the Soldiers monument (Indianapolis,) look up to the top of the shaft, measure well the distance, then, if your imagination is strong enough, pile six towers of the same height on the one before you. This will will give some idea of the precipice presented by the huge ragged spur that connects these giants. These are the mountains that guided the storm-tossed vessels of Columbus when on his fourth voyage he vainly sought for a strait through which he might sail into the undiscovered seas to the westward. It was within a few leagues of this place that he landed on the 14th day of August, 1502, to attend mass, which was celebrated under the trees, in the presence of the sailors and a large number of natives, who had assembled for the double pur- pose of satisfj'ing their curiosity and bartering the products of the country for European trinkets. And here we are to-day trading with the decendants of these same natives in much the same manner, transporting our stock on mules, traveling for daj^s through unbroken forests, traversing dense jungles or toiling wearily over mountains. Four centuries, so eventful in other parts of the earth, seem to have left no impression on this land of hammocks and dreamy repose." One evening we found ourselves before the ancient city of Truxillo. In the year 1524 or 1525, Hernando Cortez, then in the zen- ith of his fame, arrived at this port, which was at that early date, a place of considerable importance. 'Cortez had left the capital of Mexico for the express purpose of punishing the rebel Christoval de Olid, a brave but unprincipeled general, whom the ruler of New Spain had instructed to establish a settlement on the north coast of Honduras, and to that end he was intrusted with a small army to carry out the enterprise, which, having accomplished, he decided to set up a government of his own. However, the story of his disaffection finally reached the ears of the Vice Roy, who at once despatched a faithful follower, Francisco de las Casas, with orders to arrest the rebel — but the avenger fell into the hands of Olid and was made a prisoner, but after a time was released. No sooner was he at liberty than he began plotting the overthrow of A HoosiER IN Honduras. 77 Olid and at last succeeded in securing enough followers to carr}^ out his purpose, and Christoval de Olid was promptly beheaded. Meanwhile L^as Casas, having remained absent so long, Cortez fearing that he had been overtaken by some disaster, decided to go to his rescue and at the same time, punish his rebellious general in such a way that the example would be an object lesson to others who might be tempted in the same manner. Cortez finding his mission fulfilled, so far as Olid was ccncerned, spent some time exploring the country near the mouth of the Rio Dulce, after which he fitted up two brigantines and continued the expedition with a view of exploring more thoroughly the coast of Honduras. It was during this excursion that he visited the port now known as Truxillo or Trujillo, as the Spaniards frequently write it. The surf was running so high that he decided not to land, but the inhabitants "were so overjoyed that they rushed into the shallow water and eagerly bore the general in their arms to the shore. ' ' Just so, we have been carried at almost every place on the coast and our .heart swells with pride to think that our appearance has been hailed with almost the same enthusiasm that greeted the renouned Cortez, and that people have splashed out through the salt water for the purpose of carrying us ashore, for pure love and admiration — of our pocket book. OLD FORT TRUXILLO. 78 A HoosiER IN Honduras. The city possesses a fair harbor, being partly sheltered by a long narrow strip of land, which runs out to the east of the town, and as the prevailing winds are from that direction, landing ordin- arily is easily accomplished. We arrived at this place on the 15th of Jul3^ The sea being calm, we went on shore at once. The principal part of the town is built on a narrow plateau about eight}^ feet above the sea, but the custom house and a few wholesale stores are clustered about the landing and along the line of the street leading up to the main portion of the city. This road is- cobbled from wall to wall and is veri'^ long and steep and those who have walked its length under the tropical sun, will not soon for- get the tramp, but at the end we are rewarded by the sight of the "Posado Crespo," one of the finest, best equipped and managed hotels in Honduras. Here we were alloted rooms on the second floor, large, airy apartments opening on a long balcony overlook- ing the plaza. The plateau on which the city is built is perhaps a half mile wide, immediately back of which the mountains rise to the clouds. Like most towns on the coast, the Caribs represent the working class and w^e took advantage of the opportunity to secure a sup. ply of pine apples. This matchless product of the tropics here attains its highest degree of perfection, its cultivation requiring only the slightest effort, 3^et with all these advantages, and in face of the fact that it always commands a good market, the indolent natives refuse to take the trouble to raise it, hence our appreciation of the industrious habits of the caribs, whose enterprise made it possible for us to enjoy this delicious fruit to the fullest extent. Truxillo or Trujillo, was founded sometime previous to 1525, probably about 1520, for it was an established settlement enjoying a considerable trade at the time of the visit of Cortez. While this famous general was being feasted in the village and his brigau- tines were rocking idly in the sunny sea, John de Verrazano was exploring the cold and cheerless shores of New York, but it was almost a hundred years later that the first permanent settlement was made by the Dutch on Manhattan Island, thus it will be seen that Truxillo is one of the oldest towns in America being from 30 to 40 years older than St. Augustine, Fla. Among the interesting specimens of ancient Spanish architec- ture, the old church and ruined fort will probably have the great- A HoosiER IN Honduras. 79 -est attraction for the visitor, especially if he has a taste for antiqui- ties. The crumbling towers of the old fortification with its walls covered with vines, forms one of the most picturesque objects in the town, and if the tourist is artistically inclined he will not leave without carrying with him some sketches of this romantic ruin. The modern town is built of adobe and many of the houses were neatly painted and quite a number of new structures were under course of construction. We were not long in learning that Truxillo was even more Tiealthful than Puerto Cortez, and fever was quite unknown but a many persons had the same strange spells of shivering that were noted at all other points on the coast, and during our short stay there were several deaths. Among those who were "never sick" was a young man from New York. He was quite delirious and talked incessantly about the cool spring on his father's farm, which was situated near Albany. In any other country this man would have been considered "quite under the weather," but not so here. "He'll be up in a day or two" said the doctor, and the doc- tor was right, two days later found him "up" on the hill, but he did go of his own volition. If this case had occured in one of our own ports, ^ ,.^. ;;,-.-.^"-:,„.v..;^,.«» it^ would have been ^^^^^^^^^^^^fe'^^ and the town quaran-'^^^^^S^^^^^^^S^R^^-,^.^ officials, and in some ...::.:!^ ^^^ ^%.,,»^-^^:2p=>-^^^ f^^^^^^K^ cases by the leading "^.^ea-A. Tpi::^^ — ■ * ' ^'^ Jvl^^^^^^^^m I merchants and plan- "^^^i^^i^^X^^^^s;:::? "^ fm^ w ters in regard to the \m prevalence of deadly b^^^i, ^^^^ ^-^^ fru^?^ fevers is nothing short of criminal, and is altogether inexcusable, as by taking such wise pre- cautions as have been noted in the more progressive town of Belize, the ravages of this dread disease (call it yellow fever or black, as you prefer, its equally fatal) would be greatly diminished if not wholly avoided. 80 A HOOSIER IN HONBURAS. This reckless indifference to the welfare of visitors and possible investors, the outgrowth of selfishness and ignorance, satisfactorily accounts for the backward conditions of society and trade along this coast which under happier circumstances might enjoj^ a high degree of prosperity. It was at this place that Wm. Walker of Filibuster fame met his death. Those unfamiliar with the history of this famous outlaw will find an admirable account of his life and wild raids in the book entitled "Story of the Filibusters," by James Jeffrey- Roche, to which we are indebted for the following record of his sentence and death. "To capture the town of Trujillo on the mainland was but work of half an hour, onl}^ a few of the assailants being wounded. Walker received a slight wound in the face. Scarcely had the town been occupied when a British war steamer, the Icarus, appeared on the scene. Captain Salmon, her com- mander, immediately notified Walker that the British Government held a mortgage against the revenues of the port as security for cer- tain claims, and that he intended to protect the interests of his gov- ernment by taking possession of the town. Walker replied that he had made Trujillo a free port and consequently could not entertain any claims for revenues which no longer existed. The captain re- fused to recognize an}^ change in the government of Honduras and sent a peremptory demand for surrender, promising in case of com pliance to carry the prisoners back to the United States, and threat- ening to open fire on the town if his demand was not immediatly com- plied with, meanwhile General Alverez with 700 soldiers was pre- paring to make an assualt by land, thus hemmed in Walker deter- mined to evacuate Trujillo, which he did the following night retreating down the coast with only seventy men. In their haste they were compelled to leave behind all their heavy baggage and accoutrements, carrjang only thirty rounds of ammunition each, the rest they destroyed. When the British landed next morning they were only in time to protect the sick and wounded in the hos- pital from the ferocious Hondurians. The Icarus immediately took Alvarez and a strong force on board and steamed down the coast in pursuit. At the mouth of the Rio Negro they learned that Walker lay encamped at the Indian villiage of lycmas whither the boats of the Icarus were sent. They found the adventurers in no condi- tion to oppose such overwhelming odds. They carried with them only two barrels of bread and being without blankets ,or overcoats A HoosiER IN Honduras. 81 many had been attacked with fever from sleeping on the damp ground. To Captain Salmon's demand for unconditional surrender, Walker replied witn the inquiry whether he was surrendering to the British or Hondurians? Captain Salmon twice assured him dis- tinctly and specifically that it was to her Majesty's forces, where- upon the Filibusters laid down their arms and were carried on board the Icarus. On arriving at Trujillo, Captain Salmon, turned his prisoners over to the Hondurian authorities despite their protest and demand for trial before a British tribunal. Walker was arraigned before a court-martiel on the eleventh of September and after a brief examination was condemned to die by the fusillade next morning. He heard his sentence with calmness and was remanded Xo prison to pass the night in preparing for death. At half past seven o'clock on the morning of September 12th he was led out to the place of execution. He walked unfettered with a calm firm tread. He carried the crucifix in his left hand, a hat in his right. A priest walked by his side re- citing prayers for the dying. Two soldiers walked before him carry- ing drawn sabres, three more followed him with bayonets at the charged. Upon entering the hollow square of soldiery on the plaza, he begged the priest to ask pardon in his name of anyone whom he had wronged in his last expedition, then mounting the fatal stool he addressed his executioners in Spanish , as follows : "I am a Roman Catholic. The war which I made in accor- dance with the suggestion of some of the people Ruatan was unjust. I ask pardon of the people. I receive death with resignation, would that it might be for the good of society," Then calm as he had ever been in peace or in war, he awaited the fatal signal. The captain of the firing party gave a sharp order, dropped the point of the; de;ntist. 82 A HoosiER IN Honduras. his saber and at this sign three soldiers stepped forward to within twenty feet of the condemned man and fired their muskets. All of the balls took effect but still the victim was not dead, whereopon a fourth soldier advanced, and placeing the nuizzle of his piece to the forehead of the victim, blew out his brains — and so died the last of the Filibusters. " Though Walker, the outlaw, freebooter and usurper, maj^ have richl}' deserved the fate which overtook him in the plaza of this ancient town, language cannot frame a sentence bitter enough to properl}^ express the feeling of scorn which is aroused in recalling the perfid}' of Captain Salmon, whose treachery in thus delivering his prisoners into the hands of his enemies, after faithfully promis- ing to carry him and his wretched companions to the United States,' could only be matched by the brutal and inhuman savages into whose hands he played. It seemes incredible that an English offi- cer of his rank and intelligence could have been guilty of such base- ness. I hope my readers will not attribute this outbreak to sec- tional feeling or national antipath}' — it was simply a case of indi- vidual barbarity and for fear these words may be misconstrued as aimed at the British as a class, I will recite another incident which goes to show that the English heart is not always on the wrong side. The storj^ is told in the following letter, recently printed in the "News." "Now that the brief misunderstanding between this courtr}- and Great Britain is happily at an end, and we are shaking hands and congratulating each other on the peaceful settlement of the diffi- culty, it is pleasant to recall an incident in which her majestj^'s armed sloop Niobe once did us a friendly turn. It was during the Cuban Rebellion of 1868-76 and the date was November, 1873. A vessel, the Virginus, sailing under the United Sates flag had been captured by the Spanish gunboat, Tornado, and carried into the harbor of Santiago, where here crew and over 100 passengers were thrown into prison. Among the latter were four insurgent leaders, Senores Ryan, Cespedes, Varona and Del Sol. These were immed- iately tried by the Spanish Military Court and five days after the capture were shot, their heads cut off and carried about the streets on pikes, while some of the bearers pressed the ghastly relics against the bars of the prison windows, as a reminder of the fate the captives might expect. Having so quickly dispatched these rebels, A HoosiER IN Honduras. 83 the thirst for blood was increased ten fold. The remaining priso- ners were at once treated to a mock trial and condemned to death. No attention was paid to the protests of the English and American Consuls and on the seventh day of- November, Captain Fr)- an American citizen, and. fifty-one companions were cruelly butchered in the presence of a howling mob, who were allowed to mutilate the dead bodies as they choose. This fiendish work was not only per- mitted but was encouraged by the Spanish commander. It seems incredible that such atrocities could have been perpetrated in the present century by a Christian nation, but such are the facts which are well authenticated. About ninety poor wretches still remained in confinement, and in spite of the earnest protest of our representa- tives supplemented by the efforts of the English Consul, the entire number where condemned to death and the hour set for their execu- tion. No American vessel was in those waters at that time, but thanks to the ever present English man of war the armed sloop Niobe lay at Kingston within a days sail. No sooner had her com- mander, Sir lyambton I^orraine, heard of the work going on at San- tiago than he set sail for that port, where he arrived promptly and without waiting for instructions or consulting an3^one, he at once demanded the reprieve of the condemmed men, most of whom were Americans, and when General Burriel sought to argue the ques- tion, he quickly brought the debate to a close. You have mur- dered British subjects, he declared, and are holding others in prison, release them immediately or I will blow your town to atoms! There was no dallying, the Niobe's ports were open, her guns trained and every man at his post. It required only a signal from the commander to bring down a storm of shot and shell that would soon have reduced the town to a mass of smoking ruins. Burriel made one more effort by insisting that only Americans were concerned, thinking by this assertion to arouse the prejudice of the English commander. The ruse did not succeed. If that is the case, replied Lorraine, I will take the responsibility of protecting American citizens, if you do not at once comply with my demands I will open fire. The Spaniard was forced to accept the terms and to this friendlj^ but unwarranted act of an English captain, nearly a hundred lives were saved, a large proportion of whom were citizens of the United States. Possibly the Englishman erred in a diplomatic point of view by taking the high-handed course adopted on this occasion^ •84 A HoosiER IN Honduras. but we cannot help admiring the courage that moved him to act so promptly and vigorously in behalf of the little band of Americans who would have been shot like dogs within a few hours. The epi- sode furnishes one example at least when a British man of war was a welcome sight to Yankee eyes, and the remembrance at this time cannot fail to hasten the return of an era of good felling on the part of the two great powers, that after all are very closely allied in all that appeals to the great heart of humanitv. ancie;nt gate truxii,i,o. chapYkr v. VISIT THE BAY ISIvANDS, BONACCA, RUATAN, UTII.LA — A NIGHT OF STORM — BACK AT THE PORT. From Truxillo we returned to Puerto Cortez by way of the Bay Islands, visiting Bonacca, Ruatan and Utilla in succession. This part of the trip was like a holiday excursion and will always be remembered with pleasure. The first da5''s sail was rather rough owing to headwinds which kepts us on the "tack" during the whole day and the motto of the hour was, "Ivook out for the boom, ' ' for with each change of course the heavy timber would swing across the deck with teriffic force, and fearfully close to the floor, so whenever we heard the warning cry all hands fell flat. The waves were glorious and we could not sufficiently admire the beaut- iful play of color as the light penetrated the rising crest that fell a moment later in a sheet of glistening foam. The breeze continued fresh, flocks of gulls wheeled about over head while vast schools of porpoises churned the sea into a creamy foam. Occasionally a wave of unusual dimensions would sweep the deck drenching us to the skin in spite of our huge oil skin coats or "slickers," which we had provided for such emergencies, but with a temperature averaging about 85 degrees, a ducking was not such a disagreeable exper- ience. Here and there some pirate of the deep, would be be seen in pursuit of its legitimate prey, the flying fish, but apparentl}^ meeting with small success, the little fellows being to quick for them; as they rose from the water in the distance they looked like flakes of burnished silver floating in the air — their flight was swift and extended from one hundred to two hundred yards, at a time. One struck the sail and fell on deck, which we captured, but soon restored to liberty and the chances of being devoured by its old enemy. Bonacca is a picturesque little island, inhabited by a mixed population of Indians, negroes and half breeds and one or two whites. lyike all other places on the coast, this town was noted for its healthfulness — indeed, the climate was so e.xcessively salubrious the inhabitants could not live on the mainland but built their village a mile or more from shore, where a coral reef formed the foundation 86 A HoosiER IN Honduras. for the miserable huts which were raised on piles about four feet above the water. All communication was carried on in boats. As might be expected under such circumstannces, the citizens of this western Venice are lawless and ignorant, their principal diversion being found in cutting each others throats. The only incident recalled at this place occured on the evening of our arrival. A couple of Indians had been indulging their tastes for carnage, by hacking each other heads with their ever read}^ machetes- As is usual in such affrays, one of the pair was killed. The "Comand- ante" sent a couple of half clad soldiers to arrest the criminal. They succeeded in capturing him and were proceeding to the Cabildo in their boat, when the prisoner, succeeding in freeing his hands, made a sudden leap for liberty. He swam with the great- est ease but the soldiers followed him closely belaboring him with their oars until he sank from exhaustion. He was then dragged out arid carried to headquarters in an insensible condition, covered with blood. The scene was revolting and we were glad to leave the miserable island, which under a stable and civilized goverment might be made one of the pleasantest resorts in the south. From Bonacca to Ruatan is some 30 or 40 miles, the wind being favorable the "sea-gull" fairly leaped from wave to wave. We were now in the track of the trade winds w^hich blow with such regularity that they cause a surface current that bears the boat along as on a river. The same wind carried Columbus and his intrepid followers gaily along the same path four hundred j^ears before, but proved a perfect demon w^hen he attempted to return and he was forced to "tack" along the shore of the main land, much as we had done on our outward journey, but we were in the "swim" now and a few hours sailing found us at the little harbor of Oakridge, Island of Ruatan. The entrance to this prett)-- little bay is scarcel}^ wide enough to admit a vessel being protected b}- a long line of coral reefs. A couple of poles firmly fixed in an upright position indicated the exact location of the opening and b}^ carefully maneuvering, our captain steered the sloop safely between the rocks over which the water was roaring with a voice louder than thunder. We onh^ stopped at this place long enough to secure a fresh supply 'of water and pineapples, and to call on some English boat builders, the Cooper Bros., who, with their parents had made this lonely, but lovely harbor their home for many j^ears. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 87 Here we saw the bread fruit, and the tree which produces it. We were dissapointed — instead of nice crisp, brown leaves hanging from every limb ready for the table, we found only a green spongy sort of substance about the size of a cauliflower, which it somewhat resembles; it was not good raw, and was worse boiled, but it is said to be nutritious; it will sustain life, which is about all the natives care for; however, if the fruit is not quite up to ones expec- tations the tree itself surpasses them. It is beautiful and attains huge proportions, and should be cultivated for shade and ornament if for nothing else, its wide spreading branches and light green fol- iage, which forms an agreeable contrast to the denser growths, making it particularly desirable for public highwa5^s or private grounds. From here we went to Coxenhole, the largest town on the island but were prevented from landing by reports of 3'ellow fever, which some evil minded person had circulated but which, of course, were indignantly denied by the Spanish officials. How- ever, the American Consul, Mr. Burchard, came abroad our vessel and advised us to stay on the boat, for, said he, "while there ma)^ be no fever in the town, quite a number of persons have persisted in dying every day and almost without warning. Two of my office force have been carried 'up the hill' within the last forty-eight hours." Neither had been "sick," they simply died, to be in fashion perhaps, but as we had no ambition to keep up with the style and cared very little for the opinions of these people, we decided to run the risk of incurring their displeasure by continuing in this vulgar state of existence; so after viewing this interesting old town for a few hours from the deck of the sloop and taking on a supply of fresh water and fruit, we put about and were soon in the open, flying before the trade wind that had favored us ever since leaving Bonacca. The sea was glorious, the sky a peculiarly deep blue flecked here and there with light feathery clouds that took many fantastic forms. Refering to my note book for that date, I find the following: "Good breeze — heavy sea — captain says we are making nine knots — pretty fair — throw out line — catch a Bar- racuda — gamy fish — showed fight — weight, 15 pounds — Roland prepares same for dinner, not all, only part — elegant — throw out again, man on lookout shouts "a whale" — everybody makes a dash for the line; find it very hot, drop it — ^James fingers cut to the bone — a royal battle; we get oakum to protect hands, all sieze line, 88 A HoosiER IN Honduras. but with our united efforts canuot pull him up, he thrashes the water like a whirlwind, then down, the length of the line, he is huge — but is growing weaker after a half hour tug we haul him in, not a whale — a dolphin — beautiful fish." Having read so much concerning the changing colors that play over the surface of the dolphin while dying, I took particular pains to ascertain if the published accounts were really true, as I had always been somewhat skeptical on the subject. I draw on my note book again. "The fish when first landed was a bright golden yellow, with brilliant green spots. In less than five luinutes the 3^ellow, Avliich formed the back ground, changed to a bright green and the spots to a vivid blue. Eor the next three minutes scarcely any change occured. Then the green became almost J... A >««.%- ^A.^.-l| YOUNG COCOANUT PALM, FOURTH YEAR FROM PLANTING. white, the blue spots continuing the same. A little later the white suddenly became a deep bronze green, the spots a brilliant yellow with a touch of carmine and the whole surface took on a peculiar metalic lustre. These shades continued with little change until the fish was quite dead. ' ' The effect was striking and with very little aid of the imagination, the poet's conception would be fully realized. Nothing could be more delightful than this trip. The air was cool but never chilly, the ever changing panorama of mountain and sea, the ceaseless music of the surf as it broke over the coral A HoosiER IN Honduras. 89 reefs that everywhere guard the coast like a line of pickets — all restraints of civilization were for the time cast aside, we reveled in our freedom like boys just out of school. We lolled about the deck, and read or dozed, or fished or listened to Roland's wild songs. The plaj^ of the awkward porpoises was a constant source of amuse- ment. These huge black fish seem to have nothing in the world to do but race about in schools of a dozen or more, chasing each other like children at play, frequently leaping out of the water and coming down like an avalanche, lashing the sea into a white froth. Often we sat up late at night watching the phosphorescent glow of the waves or the ever shifting lines of light reflected from the moon , which shone with a brilliancy unknown in the north. We varied the monotony by a daily bath on the deck, or in the surf along shore. We enloyed the most extraordinary appetites. Roland declared, three more such passengers would be worse 'han a visitation of locusts. Our meals were served on tin pans and our coffee in tin cups, the only kind of ware that could live through the buffetting our little vessel endured, but a hungry traveler cares lit- tle for tha ways of society, or its fancy dishes, and I am sure men never enjoyed their meals better than we. The Fifth Avenue with its elaborate menu and elegant service never awakened the keen zest with which we attacked our beans and bacon. Refer- ring again to my notes, I find: "July 19th, have just finished dinner — fish (baracuda) caught about an hour ago, roasted plan- tains, casava, bread, tinned butter, Holland corned beef , beans, ban- anas, pineapples, coffee, milk in tins from France, cigars from Cuba. ' ' After dinner we smoked and read, exchanged j^arns, landed another fish. Just as the sun was sinking between the island mountains, the captain, by a skillful maneuver, turned the "gull" into the harbor or Utilla. This is an English settlement and has an air of thrift and purpose that is usually lacking in the Spanish towns. Having ascertained that there was nothing to be feared from fever at this place, we were soon on snore. This was the home of the captain and Roland, and at their request we decided to stop here a day or two and make some sketches along the coast, which is very wild and picturesque. The village is small and of little importance as a trading point. Some bananas and pineap- ples were shipped from this place. While here we were enter- tained by Mr. Rose, the principal merchant of the port. His home 90 A HoosiER IN Honduras. the most modern in the village, attested the good tas'e of its inmates, consisting of Mrs. Rose and her two handsome daughters. It had been so long since we had entered a house provided with carpets and modern furniture, we hardly knew how to behave. Since leaving Belize three months ago, we had not found a build- ing containing any of these luxuries, with the single exception of the hotel at Truxillo. Here we found not only carpets, but papered walls hung with pictures, upholstered chairs, carved tables, a piano, bedsteads of the latest pattern with springs and white sheets. It semed like a veritable palace to us, and then the fresh bread and real butter, the snowy cloth, the china, the tea and toast, the well trained servant who glided noislessy about, always appearing just when wanted, and vanishing at the proper moment; the hearty good will of the parents, the ready wit, and merry laugh- ter of the 3^oung iadies, all combined to make our day at Utilla one to be remembered with pleasure. But like all earthly pleasures, this came to an end, and bidding our friends good bye, we returned to the deck of the boat which somehow seemed to have lost much of its attractiveness during our brief absence. Although the sky looked threatening, our captain decided to start about four o'clock. Roland protested stoutly. He was sure a storm was brewing, and he thought no harm conld come of tarrying a few hours longer, but the captain was not to be moved. He declared he could weather any gale that was likely to arise and as we were all anxious to get back to the Porte, where a week or two must be consumed in prep- arations for the over land trip, we took sides with the skipper, the air was heavy, a strange, dull gray mist hung over the distant mountains, the surf, breaking on the reefs a couple of miles southward moaned in a most melancholy way, the coral caverns along the shore seemed to catch and muffle the sound of the swirling water. The sea birds shrieked ominously, the gulls flew low, a brass col- ored sun glimmored faintly through a murky haze, but the captain laughed at the fears of his mate, and at the appointed hour we were on board, picking our way slowly among the fishing vessels that crowded the little harbor. About five p. m. we found our- selves clear, the breeze was fresh and as the sun neared the horizon the haze became thicker, until from a sickly yellow, the great ball turned to a dull red, tinging the whole sky with a firey glow. This was reflected by the water which now took the hue of molten A HoosiER IN Honduras. 91 copper. The distant peak of Conger Hoy was covered by a dark mass of clouds, whose black folds, slowly envelloped his giant shoulders gradually blotting out ravine or rocky precipice; from the midst of the writhing vapors. The lightening flashed, and a moment later the thunder would be heard pealing across the water like a signal of distress. The vapor seemed to gather from all sides and a few minutes after sunset the sky was covered. Not a single star on which to hang our hopes; the wind was rising and the huge billows gave out a phosphorescent glare that showed their outlines dimly as they rose in our wake momentarilly threatening the destruc- tion of our tiny craft. What appeared to be balls of pale green fire were frequently noticed in the water. These were probably the dimly seen forms of some of the numerous species of luminous fish, that inhabit these regions, but whatever the cause, the mysterious light added not a little to the wildness of the scene. Now and then a roller of ambitious proportions would climb over the stern and distribute itself about the deck. Uunder such circumstances the ocean seems very large, the boat very small — a two inch plank between you and eternity — these were many dangerous reefs along the coast and some isolated rocks, but in the awful blackness of the night nothing was visible, except when illuminated for an instant by the lightning, which was frequent, and it was to this finally that we owed our preservation. About midnight we were alarmed by a sound like muffled thunder, but continuous, a dull roar that was easily heard above the tumult of the storm. The captain understood at once that we were driving straight into the breakers. The force of the wind and the swell of the sea had carried us several points to the leeward. The old sailor knew every inch of the coast, and under oirdinary circumstances would have passed these dangerous points in safet}^, no matter how dark the night, but he had not been able to cope with the elements. We had been driven far out of our course. As it was, our only hope lay in steering through a narrow passage between two masses of rock that rose out of the sea like a ruined castle. This narrow opening was scarcely wide enough to admit a small boat and, of course, was quite invisible in the darkness, but we must risk it. The sound of the breakers became more and more distinct. Our chances were very slight indeed. Should our frail vessel strike these rocks she would be reduced to splinters in a few minutes, that the 92 A HoosiER IX Honduras. danger was immiueut could not be denied, our captain held his place at the helm — motionless — speechless — rigid as an image of stone. The thunder of the breakers grew more teriffic every mom- ent, while we were all but smothered by the deluge of salt spraj- — we clung to the rigging with the grip of despair — out of the black- ness Death whispered hoarsely, "welcome, welcome ! " It was dur- ing this awful hour, when one's mind ought to have been concen- trated on spiritual matters, that the writer found himself the victim of a common delusion known as "living over the past" — and I con- fess with shame that the review revealed little to be proud of — strangely enjugh, the pictures recalled belonged to the period of childhood or earlj' youth — again I smoked mj' first "cheroot" back of a deserted house, hidden among a wilderness of weeds — once more, I "reaped" where I had not "sown," at least that was the testimony of an irate farmer who presented a bill to m}- astonished ROCKS OF COAST OF RL'HTAIV. parent for fruits that had never been ordered — in fact it seemed that the life of the victim, had been made up of a series of wicked and unlawful acts, one of the most disreputable of which seemed to stand out with a distinctness that eclisped all others. Trembling on the verge of a waterar^- grave, all present sur- roundings were forgotten, the author was a bo}- once more, it was a lovelj^ morning in March ; a sharp frost the previous night had bridged the streams with a thin film of ice which rang like steel as we skipped stones across the shinny surface, however, this melted rapidl5- under the warm rays of the sun-it was the sugar making sea- son in northern Ohio. Four school boys had found excuses sufH- A HoosiER IX Honduras. 93 ciently plausible to secure their freedom, they were now approach- ing a "camp'' near the village — they did not seem to understand that the manufacture of maple molasses was carried on for profit, and when they found the place deserted, it occured to them that it would be a pleasant experiment to "boil down'' a few gallons of sap until it acquired that peculiar quality known as wax' — with this laudable object in view, one of the number began to gather wood, another carried the water, the third washed the pan and made ready for the work, while the fourth sinner whose name shall never be known, was appointed to the important service of scout, with instructions to give the alarm in case of danger. Xumber one was John H d. number two. Jerome B n, number three, George McC h. number four — unknown. The property lay immediately west of the village cemetery and had been leased for the season by a pious old man locally known as "Dad Burnit'" — "Dad"' was a member of the church, a consistent, hard working christian, whose conscientious scruples forbade the use of profanity- under the most trying circumstances, but who, nevertheless, found it absolutely necessary at times, to give vent to his feelings or die from suffocation, he therefore invented the mild expression quoted above, by which, from long association became recognized for miles around. The unnamed member of this quartet of depradators stationed himself on a fence and watched five minutes — from a nearbv hedge came the song of a sparrow — ^the creek hills were veiled by a bluish mist that softened their rugged outlines — a chipmonk scampered across an open space: number four gave one sharp, scrutinizing glance around the horizon — all was as peaceful as a dream — surely there could be no danger: he could hear the voices of num- ber one, two and three talking in low tones: he could also see the smoke, now slowly rising out of the underbrush: surely it could do no harm to look after that chipmonk — ^the chase proved long and exciting, even the "'wax" was forgotten — and number four seemed quite oblivious of the fact that he was in any way connected with the enterprise, however, his responsibility as sentry was suddenlv recalled there was a tremendous shout, "Dad Burnit, don't run — er I'll fiill yer so full of holes you won"t make a decent shad- der. " Xumber four was paralyzed with fright and stood like a 94 A HoosiER IN Honduras. statue, unable to move, number one, two and tnree were affected differentl}^ the}^ fled like the wind, making for the cemeterj^ where they escaped, hiding among the tombs — while the unfortunate sen- try was dragged back to town, down through the main street to his fathers door, and the story of his infamy told with' many outbursts of indignation on the part of the narrator — of course he received such punishment as was deemd proper under the circumstances, but the unkindest cut of all, came in the evening when his three accomplices returned with a pan full of "wax" which they had made in Undisturbed security while their companion was being ignominously marched off to the village; the sorrow of remorse of that moment all came back on this memorable night, and the roar of wind and waves was drowned by the dreadful shout of old ' ' Dad Burnit, ' ' and the regret of a misspent life was lost in the deeper regret of that day in March, thirty years ago, not regret for the sin, but for the loss of his share in the spoils — this confes- sion is made in the interest of science^not because the writer cares to expose his unregenerate heart to the gaze of the world — can any one explain the phenomena? He trul}^ wished to think of things that were good, but at that supreme moment he could think of nothing but the "wax" — that he failed to secure. Suddenly a vivid flash, followed by another, revealed our position. The illum- ination lasted only a fraction of a second but it was enough for the captain to determine the location of the narrow strait, into which we were soon driving, the keel grazing the wall in its passage, which would certainly have proved our destruction had it not been for the timely flash. Once through this channel the sea became smoother and we felt comparatively safe. Everything loose had been washed overboard. Kettle, bucket, water cask; even our tin plates and drinking cups had dissapeared. These things had been overlooked in the hurry to secure the hatches the evening before. It was well that this was our last night on the sloop, as our meals would have been pitifully slim after this loss. Roland mounred the fate of his huge dinner pot and refused to be comforted. He felt that no other could ever take its place, and he dwelt long and lovingly on its peculiar qualities recalling the miraculous stews that had been concocted in its dark depths. About four o'clock we entered the harbor of Puerto Cortez, the second time, in a gale that sent the wattrs swhirling almost to A HoosiER IN Honduras. 9S the doors of the custom house. About six o'clock a couple of offi- cers rowed out where we lay rocking on the short choppy sea, and, having examined our documents we were permitted to land. We were thoroughly drenched, having slept none during the night, consequently were not in a particularly good humor. It seemed an age since we left Utillia, and it was nearly a month before we entirely recovered from the peculiar sensation caused by the constant motion of the sloop — for days the earth seemed to be slowly heaving like the sea; when we closed our eyes we imagined we could feel the floor of the hotel rising and falling like the deck of the vessel. After a good bath, a complete change of clothing and a cup of black coffee brewed by our old friend, the hostess of the "Hotel American," we felt much refreshed and set at once about our preparations for the overland journey. The captain and Roland only lingered long enough to replace the lost utensils and hurriedly bade us adieu. They were anxious to return to their families; who would naturally be alarmed, on account of the storm which broke so soon after we left the harbor. We felt like very old friends indeed, although our acquaint- ance extended over a period of less than sixty days, it seemed to us that we had known these honest sailors all our lives, and it was with genuine regret we bade them adieu. It is wonderful how quickly men of widely different circum- stances become attached to each other when exposed to common dangers; for weeks we had shared alike the pleasures and perils of the little sloop, together we had partaken of the strange dishes invented by Roland, "the genius of the skillet," as the captain dubbed him, together we had sizzled under the burning sky dur- ing those calms that have already been referred to, together we had plowed the midnight sea when every moment seemed an hour and every hour an age — but it was over at last and the experience forms a figure in the ever lengthening pattern that falls from mem- ories looms; looms whose busy shuttles never cease gathering up the parti-colored threads of our lives; light and dark, bright or somber. We part at the wharf. We will not say good bye— only 'so long, we'll see you later." Of course we never expected to but somehow its easier to part that way. As rapidly as possible we made our preparations for the moun- tain trip. When at last everything was packed and delivered to 96 A HoosiER IN Honduras. the railroad company, we sat down to wait for a train. While waiting, we explored the neighborhood in search of "pines" and found some — this recalls a little lecture recently delivered by a •'Hoosier School Master" for the benefit of the children under his charge in which he gravely informed his interested listeners that pineapples grew on pine trees, calling attention to the close resemblance of the "apple" to the cones with which the boys and girls were familiar, the difference in size and quality being due, he declared to climatic influence; he did not say that the natives trained monkeys to climb these trees and bring down the fruit, though that would not have been more absurd — we do not like to dispute so high an authority but a strict adherence to the facts compels us to state that pineapples do not grow on pine trees — or trees of any description but on a lowly plant which attains a height of from 3 to 4 feet. The cultivation of this fruit is one of the profitable industries of the south — the crop is very sure, and pays quite as well as bananas — the- following extract from the "Honduras Almanac" is the result of many years successful exper- ience by an English planter. A PINE TREE, HEIGHT 4 FEET. "The climate must be moist with a damp soil; as it does not ^'seed," this plant "is propagated by suckers, requiring only from 12 to 18 months to realize on the first crop — they should be planted in rich red soil, about 18 inches apart and carefully weeded about every three months — careful cultivation greatly improves the flavor of the fruit. "The distance apart at which they are planted in Jamiaca is 3 1-2 feet between rows and 2>^ feet in the rows, this gives 4,840 plants to the acre, out of this number j^ou can safely count on 4,000 perfect pines, these sold at the ver}^ low price of 5 cents would give A HoosiER IN Honduras. 97 the producer an income of $200.00 per acre every 16 or 18 months. The pine fields ought to be cleaned five or six times a year, each cleaning costing say, $S per acre, or from $25 to $30 per acre per annum, this constitutes the whole cultivation. Each plant pro- duces one "pine," its place is then taken by one of the numerous suckers, the superfluous ones being carefully removed; only those who have tested the pine apple when fully matured in its native home have any idea of its delicious qualities, it is without doubt the finest of all southern fruits. We might add for the informa- tion of those who are interested in the subject that the varieties best adapted for export are the black Antigua, black Jamaica or "cow-boy," the Ripley, Charlotte Rothschild, smooth Ca^^enne, scarlet (or Cuban) and British Queen. Northern visitors are astonished at the size this fruit attains under proper cultivation, many specimens weighing from 10 to 12 pounds. GUARDIAN OF THE; P^ACE;, BELIZE. CHAPTER VI. THE GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAI, RAILROAD — A FLYING TRIP OVER THE SAME — TOWN OF SAN PEDRO — A SMALL EARTH- QUAKE, MERELY A SAMPLE — WAITING. The reader who will take the trouble to consult the map of Central America, published by Rand, McNally & Co., will notice a long black line drawn across the republic of Honduras. It begins at Puerto Cortez and ends at a point on the Pacific near Amapala, or vice versa, as the observer may decide. It represents the rail- road which was to become "America's highway" and which, to use the flowery language of its enthusiastic promoters, was to "shape the destiny of the nation." The rich agricultural regions of the interior would be opened to the world, and the tide of prosperity that would follow could hardly be imagined much less described. An elaborate system of feeders were planned that would tap all those rich mining centers, which lacked only transportation facilities to transform them into veritable bonanzas. Hundreds of thousands of acres of land, almost worthless from a commercial point of view, would find a market at prices that made the unsuspecting native fairly dizzy with anticipation. For a while the little republic endulged in rosy visions of wealth, the humblest citizens would become millionaires, bamboo huts and 'dobe walls would be replaced by palaces of mar- ble. Alas for Central American enterprise! The natives gazed a moment on these busy preparations with a sort of wild surprise, then with a murmured "Manana" sank back in their hammocks to slumber and dream. Not so the scheming contractors, who "worked" the govern- ment for all it was worth — and more. A small army of men were employed and operations began on the northern division, while the attention of the country was centered on this scene of activity, the wiley agents of a syndicate of English Bankers were no less busy at the capitol negotiating a loan, by which the state became respon- sible to the amount of $27,000,000. This deal having been suc- cessfully accomplished, it suddenly dawned on the projectors that the plan of building a road across the mountains was not feasible at 100 A HoosiER IX Honduras. that time. The workmen wete laid off, "temporarily" with in- structions to be in readiness to report at a moments notice. A .[uarter of a century has passed and they are still waiting with that patience that is characteristic of the Spanish American. Mean- while the ardent advocates of the enterprise dissappeared, leaving thirty-six or thirty-seven miles of poorly constructed narrow gauge track as a slight compensation for the millions they carried away. Over this wretched remnant of a great "transcontinental railroad" toy cars are dragged by a toy locomotive, covering the distance from the port to San Pedro in from three to ten hours, according to the condition of the lame engine, and its native fireman. Trains do not arrive or depart at regular intervals, but are dispatched CHURCH SAN PEDRO. whenever a sufficient amount of freight has accumulated to war- rant such extravagance. So the restless traveler maj' have to wait one, two, or three days for a chance to risk his life on this, the worse bit of railroad in existence. The risk is not from reckless speed or danger of collisions or that the train ma^- jump the track, or from any of the usual accidents of railway travel — it is that you may die from starv^ation before reaching your destination, or be devoured bj^ mosquitoes during one of those half day stops in the midst of a swamp where the air is darkened by swarms of these persistent insects, or that 3^ou may be tempted to destro)^ one or two of the officials, or in the enthusiasm of the moment j'-ou might even sacrifice the conductor or a brakemau, and thus bring down the vengence of the law, which is administered in such a loose and A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 101 partial manner that you would most likely be swiftly convicted and sentenced to serve thirty days as a first class passenger! We had all our traps carried over to the depot and paid for transportation at the rate of 1 1-2 cents per pound for the thirty-six miles, a rate just three times that charged by the Steamship Co., from New York, a distance of three thousand miles. The tariff seemed a trifle high at first, but when we struck the overland express and planked down twelve cents a pound on goods billed for Tegucigalpa, a distance of only 180 miles, or seven days journey by mule, you will readily understand why so common an article as beer commands 50 cents for a very small glass in the capitol city. However, it's not considered a wholesome beverage and some poor people are forced to drink water. In about two days a sufficient amount of freight had been gathered in to justify the making up of a train, and presently a lit- tle locomotive, guiltless of stack or "cow catcher," was brought forth and after much coughing, wheezing and sputtering, it was finally coaxed into making a start. Our train consisted of one coach, and a flat car, the latter for the accomodation of the bales of goods' destined for the interior, which were covered with a huge tarpaulin the former, an abandoned box car, had been converted to its present use by placing a plank seat on either side, length- wise of the coach, to strengthen the illusion a row of square openings had been cut in the sides, through which the mosquitos came in to cheer the weary passengers with their tuneful melodies —this elegant equipage was filled to the point of suffocation. The passengers were mostly natives, who were not lavishly dressed— men women and children , they carried all manner of bundles, every foot of space was occupied. We were packed like herrings m a box. Every one smoked, which added to the comfort of the trip. We made fine time at the start whizzing along at the rate of 12 miles an hour, but had to make a long stop at the "lagoon" for repairs and to take on sand to be used on the "grade." While waiting, we walked ahead a mile or two studying the scenery. At last the train overtook us. We scrambled to our places and sped on our way, plunging into the forest of cahune palms Here the tall trees met overhead, almost shutting out the light and the effect was like entering a tunnel. The smoke was stiffiing. On each side of the track were shallow pools of 102 A HoosiER IN Honduras. water, stretching away into the gloomy shades of the wilder- ness, dead and glassy. Suddenly the train came to a stand. Every one was out in a moment. What was the cause of delay? It was hardly worth mentioning, the track had sunk in the mire and we must wait until it could be straightened up aud new ties procured. It was now that some of the party indulged in language that would scorch this page if transcribed. It is therefore omitted. Only those who have tarried in the midst of tropical swamps ^ can form an idea of the torture inflicted during those two hours by the swarms of stinging insects that literally filled the air. The natives squated on the tracks, smoking stolidly, their dull expres- sionless faces betrayed not the slightest emotion. When the mos- quitoes would accumulate to the depth of half an inch, they would slowly rub them off and silently wait for the next crop. Choloma is a way station consisting of a cluster of huts in the woods, but it boasts of a telegraph office, "telegrafo nacional" — as we expected to reach the capitol in the course of a few weeks we thought it proper to warn the citizens of the impending invasion, and at the same time experiment with tropical electricity, having been informed it was subject to the drowsy influence of the climate — we therefore prepared the following modest message, "Hotel American, Tegucipalpa, a party of hungry gringoes will reach your place in six weeks, please order dinner at once" — this was trans- lated and delivered to the operator who proceeded to play on the instrument with the ease of professional — click — click — clickat — tick — tack — clickety clack — clack — his action was admirable, his time perfect, the music ran smoothly along without a jar or break — certainly we had made sure of one square meal, with ample time for its preparation — months later, while stopping at the hotel in question the landlord handed us a "telegrafo" which he had just received, it was our request for an early dinner, it had been re-translated from the barbarous Spanish: "Some tengo hambre gringos will be come, want comida muches quick, como no ! beware, ahora luege," it was presented to the writer and is treas- ured as a curious example of electrical degeneration. Miss Anna A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 103 J. Somers, a bright young lady, of Indianapolis, recently returned from an excursion to San Pedro Sula, recalls an incident that occured at this station; while waiting for the inevitable repairs, she was unfortunate enough to catch a bit of cinder in her eye — she suffered intensely— all efforts to remove the particle only increased the pain — she was becoming greatly alarmed when a handsome young Spaniard approached, who with many apologies for the intrusion begged to be allowed to lend his assistance — under such circumstances she was only to glad to receive aid from any source — leading her to a seat he requested that she lean back clos- ing the well eye, very carefully he raised the lid of the other, in a moment he located the piece of grit, then suddenly stooping 'till his face touched her own^ he thrust his tongue in her eye — the MASON'S CONCKPTION OF A EARTHQUAKE. operation was over in an instant, the offensive substance was re- moved, and all pain ceased at once. While trying to think of the appropriate Spanish words to properly express her thanks, her friend withdrew, smiling and bowing until lost to view — when too late the word "gracias" came to her which she has since elabo- rated to "muches gracias, senor," by an odd co-incidence, one of Miss Somers young lady companions met with a similar mishap at this same station on their return trip — but the good looking specialist was^not to be found — was it altogether an accident? At last the'road was repaired, the train started slowly, cau- tiously, and for the rest of the way we averaged about four miles an hour. When we got through the swamp we struck the "grade." 104 A HoosiER IN Honduras. Some trees had fallen across the track. A stop of an hour was reciuired to remove these obstacles. Then began the ascent — puff _puff_puff. Two Indians were detailed to go ahead and sprinkle the rails with sand, but it seemed almost impossible for the crippled engine to do its work. The passengers dismounted and one good- natured fellow offered to help "push the thing along," but his ser- vices were politely declined, so we walked ahead stopping now and then to test the bananas that hung in tempting proximity to the road. At each of these plantations stacks of fruit were corded up much, as we see wood along some of our roads in the States. On its return the train would stop at these places and carry the produce to the port, where it would be re-stacked under long, low sheds, to await the steamer from New Orleans. In the course of an hour or ^^..— two the "grade" was overcome and we took our places once more in the coach. The engineer pulled the throttle to its widest extent, ^ the fireman piled coal and wood into the furnace until it glowed with a white heat. The ground was now solid, the track in fair condition and the last few minutes we attained a spe^d of 15 miles an hour, rushing into San Pedro with a wild scream that brought all the idlers of the village Lo the depot. Here we were met by a host of men and boys who insisted on carrying everything we had, regardless of our remonstrations, but we finally fought them off and made a bargain with a poor old fellow who possessed an ancient Mexican cart, to which was attached a team of the saddest looking oxen we ever beheld. For the consideration of two reals, he conveyed our luggage to the "Posado De Renaud," a small but comfortable hostelry. San Pedro is the onlj^ town between the coast and Tegucigalpa possessing a hotel, excepting the "American" at Comyagua. Beside the Renaud House, there is the "Hotel Americano," under the management of Mr. L,ouie Seifert, a German of progres- sive ideas. Here you could enjoy the luxur}- of a cool bath, to say nothing of iced water and other mild drinks. San Pedro shows many signs of improvement. The old houses are being replaced by modern frame structures. A firm of American carpenters, Messrs. Coleman & Barnes, having revolutionized the building A HoosiER IN Honduras. 105 ^.usiness. The railroad, wretched as it is, serves to keep open com- munication with the world, and brings the newspapers every week, the result is an air of bustle and commotion quite out of keeping with the traditions of the country.* A rude system of water works supplies the town from a spring in the mountains. At an elevation of several hundred feet, a reservoir has been built from which pipes are laid on the surface of the ground and thus carried to var- ious convenient points, where public hydrants are placed, here you will always find a crowd of women with there water jars, patiently waiting their turn, the while smoking and chatting, pos- sibly discussing matters of dress, or lack of it. As in most other Central American towns, we find the male •children, under 10 or 12 years of age, quite unincumbered, so far as clothing is concerned and their appearance on the corners, or in the plaza, where groups are engaged in games of marble, or ball, attract the attention of the stranger. San Pedro is delightfully situated on a plain at the foot of a range of mountains, whose blue outlines are visible far out at sea and whose cloud-like forms we had often discussed from the deck of the Seagull. From that distance they looked very beautiful, the pale blue of the sunlit sides melting imperceptably into the vio- let shadows; sometimes at sunset their crests seemed tipped with gold, the effect being produced by the reflection of the yellow light from the rocky precipices. Again in the early morning they would loom up through the purple mist like shadows on the east- ern sky, changing every moment with the increasing light, but always like a vision, a dream, no suggestion of rocks and preci- pices and miles of wilderness, with foaming torrents that must be crossed as best we may — but now we are here, their hard reality becomes apparent. We can see the dark forests, the walls of rock, the path winding up the steep side like a yellow thread until quite lost among the pines. Almost daily their crests were obscured by masses of black clouds. From the midst of the dark shaddows *Since the above was written this famous road has been taken in hand by a company of Americans, who have practically rebuilt the portion con- necting Puerto Cortez and San Pedro, and continued the line as far as Pimiento, about sixty-one miles from the coast. Trains run up one day and down the next, making fairly good time. My informant also states that the pier has been reconstructed, and vessels now come alongside and transfer their load to the cars direct. 106 A HoosiER IN Honduras. dS niddy lightnings played and the rumble of the thunder could be plainly heard echoing from peak to peak. It was at this place that we first noticed the shelves in stores guarded by wires stretched along in front of them, at least all those containing goods of a breakable nature. We wondered at this at first, but soon learned the cause. We were now in a country sub- ject to frequent earthquake shocks, which would tumble glass or queensware to the floor, causing great loss and annoyance. Oc- casionally the shocks are so severe that buildings suffer and life itself is endangered by the sudden collapsing of the massive 'dobe walls, or falling of the heavy tile roofs. We used to think we would enjoy an earthquake and had looked forward to the time when we might experience one, but somehow when we arrived on _^^o the ground we lost all desire to investigate the phenom- ena. We were quite satis- fied with what we had read, and with the explanations of those who had made the subject a special study. But we were to have a real shake, and will say right ~' '^^^^^^\0^^f<. here that the single exper- Wlf^^^^iM<^^^^^''^''^^^'^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^ convinced us. ^^!^^^^^^^h'^-'.^!X^ that there is nothing to be gained by an intimate ac- quaintance with an earth- quake; in fact, we know much less than we did before. We used to have well defined theories on the subject, we have none now — at least none worth advertising. There was no preliminary rumbling, or slight tremor — the shock came with the suddeness of an explosion — the crash of fall- ing crockery and tumbling furniture was appalling, to this was added the screams of women and children, as they rushed madly for doors or windows in a frantic effort to escape from under those awful roofs. The confusion and terror of that hoUr cannot be described — clocks struck out of time, bells clanged discordantly, nameless horror and hopeless despair was painted on every face — we were no exception to the rule — and whatever ideas we possessed POSADO de; Raynaud. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 107 'concerning cause and effect as applied to seismic disturbances left us to return to return no more — it was over in less than three min- utes — those brief moments comprised an age — the whole population fled to the plaza, where they fell, some on their faces, some on their knees and prayed — loudly, incoerently — some for forgiveness — others for immediate deliverance — the latter class seem to predomi- nate — very few seem troubled about their sins — their only thought was present safety — the sensation was peculiar it seemed as though the earth's crust was only about an inch thick and liable to break through at any moment — it quiverd under us like thin ice — how -longingly we gazed up into the clear blue sky and wished for wings, instead of feet — but there was no retreating — so we simply stood there as lightly as possible, and felt sorry — there were some strange .grinding sounds now, that may have come from the sky above, or the depths below, we did not attempt to locate them. We were scared — too badly scared to note accurately time or circumstance. One thought came to us as we listened trembling to the chorus of payers, that where being hurled heavenward, so as to speak, by tkat crowd of frightened beings, whose every day language was marked by a rich profusion of words of topical import. That :single thought was this: What an addition a small earthquake would be to an ordinary religious revival, what a wholesale con- version of souls would take place — souls long since dead to all the commonplace methods of ministers. When the solid earth ^begins to roll like the sea, and tall trees bow their heads to the dust, and mysterious sounds fill the air, when birds flut- ter helplessly to the ground, and cattle stand with legs far apart, •eyes dilated with terror — then it is that ones early religious training asserts itself, strong men are seen to weep like children and cry aloud to heaven for protection — yes an earthquake is a wonderful stimulus to religious fervor. The next day the occurance was forgotten. No great damage had been done. Some old cracked walls showed wider seams, some dishes were broken, some clocks toppled off shelves and dam- aged. What seemed so terrible was but a slight disturbance, and the day following business resumed its normal conditions, the saloons were running as usual; the men who prayed so lustily a few hours since might now be' found in their accustomed haunts playing poker and decorating the surrounding territorj' with a 108 A HoosiER IN Honduras. dark browu fresco of tobacco juice and abandoned quids, while their conversation was adorned with the usual amount of invective — invective peculiar to the climate, rankly luxuriant like the vege- tation — dark, dank, dense. We stopped at this place several weeks, in fact we were forced to do so, as it was necessary to secure mules and mozos; the latter must be well posted on the roads and mountain passes. The first must be sound and true, we were delayed at every step b}^ the eternal "Manana." Tomorrow! Tomorrow! The native Hondurian has ten thousand excuses for delay. He only asks one day but usuall)^ succeeds in taken seven. They cannot understand wh}- anyone should be in haste. To hurry with these people is to be vulgar. In this respect the Hondurian is wonderfully like the Japanese, whose "Tadaima," translated "By and By" or "after a while," simply means an indefinite postponemont of whatever you .have on hand. "A little later." "another da)^" While the universal "Manana" of the Spaniard is represented exactly b}' the Japanese word ',Miyonichi" (tomorrow,) and is used with the same exasperating coolness. "Don't be in a hurry" says the Jap, "there W'ill be another da}-." Never do an5'thing to- day that can be put off till tomorrow," says the native of Hondur- us," because something might happen that w^ould make it unneces- sary and the labor would be lost," which -^vould be sad indeed. The people can bear the loss of time, mone}^ wife or child, with a heroic fortitude that is touching, but the thought of labor wasted breaks their hearts. While waiting we strolled about the place taking notes. By referring to my memorandum, I find under August first the following observation : "From the office window I can see a native woman at a wash tub. She is bare-headed and her uucon- fined raven locks fall below her waist, but she is not handsome. Her skin is the color of copper, her face has less expression than a board fence — and, to sum it up, she has no sense. If she had why would she stand there rubbing away for hours under the blistering August sun, when by moving her bench four feet — actually not an inch more-she would come within the broad shadow of a mango tree through whose dense foliage scarcely a ray of light can pass. Even her parrot shows his intelligence by perching among its cool- ing shadows, while a cat lies asleep at its foot. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 109 It is so with everything else. It is simply lack of intelligence among the masses of the inhabitants that makes the first discovered country of America the last to be settled and civilized. No other country in the world can boast of greater natural resources or clim- atic advantages, not only surpassingly beautiful to the eye, but possessing a deep, rich soil, capable of producing (according to altitude) every fruit known to the tropic or temperate zones, to say nothing of vegetables and cereals, while its mineral wealth is beyond computation. Those who have given the subject careful consideration declare that the state of Honduras is without doubt one of the richest countries in the world; but leaving these two great sources of wealth entirely out of our calculation, her native woods alone will more than pay the national debt. The whole story is told in three words, lack of sense. Right across the street a man is sawing wood. He has a good saw, such as every Ameri- can farmer owns. Can you immagine how he uses this convenient tool? He holds it between his knees and rubs the sticks up and down over the sharp teeth until he can break them. This is a fair illustration of the way thej'- do things down here. August 2. — Signs of improvement have been noted. Hon- duras is not without hope. At Truxillo three boys were discov- ered fighting over a game of marbles. At Puerto Cortez, a young- ster was seen throwing at a dog, and at San Pedro a progressive youth was found spinning a top in an alley. Only those who have seen the death like stupor that prevails among the smaller children, can appreciate these slight evidences of the awakening of natural instincts among members of the rising generation. That these three examples of 5^outhful enterprise occured at points widely separated, is a hopeful indication. This shows that the influence is not confined to one locality but is in the air. When you see the children of a nation waking up — look out!" PRKPARING TO MOUNT CHAPTER VII. SERVICES OF MOSES AND AARON SECURED — FINAE ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE OVERLAND TRIP — THE START — AMONG THE MOUNTx\INS — DISERTATION ON HAMMOCKS SANTA CRUZE AND ITS MINES — BEAUTIFUL SCENERY — PRIMITIVE VILLAGES. San Pedro ooutains no buildings of importance, an old diurch, of plainest pat- tern — its plastered walls cracked and broken, bearing on their rough surface the record of earthquakes and revolutions for two genera- tions or more — a new cabildo entirely too modern to be graceful or picturesque, and altogether out of harmony with its surroundings. But the town is not with- out pleasant features, one of these, is found in the streams of clear water that cross the village from east to west, at intervals of two or three hundred yards, one of them ran through the lot within a few feet of the dining room, and its cheerful music added not a little to the pleas- ure of the guest stopping at the Posado de Renaud. The servant question now demanded immediate settlement — we must have guides or mozos, and they must be expert packers, and besides know every path leading through that stretch of moun- tain wilderness that extends for leauges to the southward. We therefore began the search, and for some time met with little encouragement, very few cared to take so long a trip — they objected to going more than a dozen leagues, and few had ever been farther away from their homes — wages was no object, as they HIGH bridge;. 112 A HoosiER IN Honduras. could live without work — so why engage in toilsome marches, for the paltry consideration of a few silver dollars ? Besides it meant separation from their families for an indefinite period — we found these people strongly attached to their homes, and disinclined to engage in au}^ enterprise that would carry them beyond the small circle of their dailj^ experience — w^hich meant a little work with much leisure for music, cigarettes, and hours in the restful ham- mock — happy natives, would that the world might know some- thing of the contentment that fills their peaceful days — every one had some valid excuse to offer and we were almost discouraged, when we ran across a couple of wild fellows from the department of Olaucho, of which it has been said, "Olancho, ancho para intrar, angosta para salir" (easy to enter, hard to leave.) In fact this department is noted for its desperadoes and general lawlessness — these hardy mountaineers, young and strong, were ready for any kind of adventure, and expressed a desire to see the pacific coast — they were a murderous looking pair, but we promptly engaged them — they were tall and handsome, but their black eyes flashed with a peculiar fire — they were very dark, with shocks of hair trimmed after a fashion peculiar to the country, short behind, long in front, this sable foretop hanging low over their foreheads, gave them a particularly sinister expression — each man was armed with a revolver and a long machete, recentl}' ground and polished, these convenient tools were supported by a stout belt of leather; they wore broad sombr^os, red shirts, blue trousers, rolled to their knees — they were evidently looked upon as "bad men" by the villagers, who regarded all Olanchans with suspicion if not with fear — but what we admired most about these rufhans was their readiness — they invented no excuses for delay — and never so much as murmered "Manana," but were ready to start at any moment, and to prove their willingness, they set out at once to hunt up animals and we were astonished at their success. The very next day they appeared before the posadj) with a train of four- teen mules, which they had taken possession of, telling the owners to come around at a certain hour and get their money. They were the most successful stock buyers we had ever met and we were delighted with their direct business methods. We noticed that they handled their weapons very carelessly and whenever the owner of a mule was disposed to ask an exorbitant price, their fin- A HoosiKR IN Honduras. 113 gers played nervously over the triggers of those huge revolvers in a way that somehow seemed to end the controversy, and the dealer appeared glad to close the contract and cheerfully signed a receipt in full. The price of sound riding mules at that time was $100 and good packs $75 to $80. One was secured at $60, the reduction being made on account of age. The more we saw of these fellows the better we liked them. They carried long unpronounceable Indian names, which we could never learn so we called them simply Moses and Aaron, not that they in in the least resembled those famous char- acters, but because the names were easy to call and remember. They seemed pleased with the titles which they evidently consid- ered as a special mark of respect or honor, the equivalent of Gene- ral, Colonel, Doctor or Professor. Besides being an expert packer, Aaron had other accomplishments that he was very proud of, he could write and sketch, and besides understood English — or thought he did — true his language was rather disjointed at times, and his chirography somewhat faulty according to the spencerian standard, nevertheless his skill in this direction was quite remark- able, when his opportunities were considered — if his vocabulary was not extensive, he used his stock to the best advantage, as the reader will see b}'^ the examples presented herewith. We consider sketch number one much the best, the lines are drawn with confidence, there is no hesi- tation, no faltering, and if the artist betra3^s his ignor- ance of anatomy, he is not troubled on that account; he has certainly succeeded in catching the spirit of Pizarro, and after all that's the main thing — we don't know who the excited in- dividual in the distance is intended to represent, but if it's meant for pizarro's owner it's a mean slander that's all — by "front pros- ^^ , ^,,r-r^ ■' ^ No. 1— MULE. 114 A HoosiER IN Honduras. pect" Aaron means simply a front view. Sketch number two is not as strong as number one, he has given to much attention to detail, the building in the distance is a .school house and the teacher has dismissed the pupils in order that they may watch the "Gringo" learn to ride — the party at the extreme right is supposed to be the author of these remincinces — the position is neither graceful nor dignified and is hereby branded a base libel — Aaron will do more sketching for us ! Bills of sale having been duly made out and receipted, the boys at once began the packing process. Some of the animals were young and frisky and did not take kindly to the operation. One particularly vicious colt rolled and kicked until he scattered his load in every direction. This exhibition attracted a large crowd of idlers who observed the proceedings with interest. The performance was not particularly reassuring to the writer, who looked forward to the hour of mounting one of those wild beasts, with a good deal of trepidation, and he remembers with what solic- itude he approached the particular animal set apart for his use. At last the packing was completed and Moses and Aaron, with a faithful servant, Santiago, set off with the train, one day in advance of the principals. This arrangement was made partly to allow us time to settle up our business in the town and partly that we might enjoy our first mountain ride undisturbed by the clatter of the muleteers, besides our animals, with no burdens but their riders, would make much better time than the "cargoes," there- fore we would easily overtake the train sometime next da5^ It was here that we had our hammocks made, and laid in all those articles essential to comfort on a long journe}^ through an almost un-inhabited wilderness. Huge Mexican saddles were pro- cured with holsters attached for the pistols, that every one is expected to carry; leggins and savage spurs of shining brass, huge leghorn sombreros decorated with wide ribbons, these were secured by a stout cord tied to our belts to prevent them from going over the moun- tains when struck by the playful breezes that lurk among those lofty passes among the clouds. Everything must come to an end, and so our stay in this pleas- ant village. The time had arrived when I must mount that mule. Only those who have never been on a horse's back can realize with what caution I now approached the sleep}- looking A HoosiER IN Honduras. 115 creature tied up in the rear of the hotel. I felt strangely cramped and awkward, with the tight fitting leggings and jingling spurs, and the knowledge that my good friend, Mrs. Renaud, had marshalled the entire female force in the kitchen to witness our departure, did not add to my ease; besides these young ladies, whom I knew were enchanging many nods and winks behind the lattice, a half dozen old travelers were ranged around the yard to say good bye, or wish us "God speed." I would willingly have dispensed with these pleasant ceremonies and will here acknow- ledge that I offered a boy $2.00 to lead the mule a mile out of the town and tie it to a tree where it might easily be found, but he refused. So, as there was no other way, I approached the beast with as great a show of assurance as I could assume, and throwing the rein over my arm placed my hand on the pummel of the saddle, my left foot in the stirrup and made a wild leap, landing squarely on the ani- mal's back the first time. The mule exhibited some signs of surprise and walked around the inclosure once or twice on his hind feet, pawing the air, then he suddenly reversed his tactics and made the circle a couple times on his fore feet, his heels playing with the clouds. I felt that my title to the exalted position I now enjoyed was very slim indeed. However, the wild screams of men and maids added not little to my determination to "stay with him," and after a ten minute struggle the old fellow seemed perfectly sat- isfied that his rider had legal rights that could not be disputed, and we started on our journey, our ears filled with the applause of the multitude. From his bold and chivalrous spirit, his untiring energy and love of enterprise, I named my newly acquired property, Pizarro. As a conqueror he ranks well with his illustrious predecessor. It is wonderful how soon one becomes attached to the dumb servant who toils along so patiently, carrying the rider in safety over paths that one would hardly attempt on foot. In this country the traveler steps out of the village into the wilderness. One is struck by the absence of cultivated fields — only the "forest pruneval", the huge trees were overhung with vines or overgrown with air plants of which many varieties abound. Some orchids of rare beauty were noted in this neigh- borhood. The path, for the most part onl}^ wide enough for a single 116 A HoosiER IN Honduras. rider, followed a zigzag course, each "tack" carr3dng us a little nearer to the summit of the mountain. The tall trees met over our heads and the silence and gloom of this wilderness was impressive. There was no hum of insects, no bird music — only the melancholy sighing of the wind as it swayed the tops of the trees. Great banners of Spanish moss of a silvery gray color depended from the branches. Now- and then a flock of green parrots would cross our path, and once we saw a pair of maccaws. These most brilliant of tropical birds, like their green coated cousins, are quite devoid of melod}', though their voices are coarser and their whole life seems to be passed in an endless quarrel. We arrived at the "cumbre" or summit about noon, where we stopped for lunch and to look back over the country which lay ^^^moji^^^^^ ^itjeLook. No. 2— MUI^K. below, us like a map. The village of San Pedro was plainly visi- ble. Its red tiled roof-s and white washed walls gleaming prettity out of the sea of green that surrounded it like an ocean. With this single exception, the forest was unbroken. Far away to the right a faint streak of silvery brightness betrayed the presence of the Ulua, but most distant of all, and rising against the horizon like a dark blue wall, was the Gulf of Mexico", fully fort}" miles awa}'. After an hours rest we continued our journey. We were now descending into the valley of the chamelecon and found the road rougher and more difficult. My affection for Pizarro increased per- ceptably. We rounded some curves where a false step would have sent us tumbling hundreds of feet over rocky precipices. Again we descended declivities that would have discouraged a squirrel ^ A HoosiER IN Honduras. 117 but our good mules carefully measured each step, avoiding stone or stick, never placing a foot until perfectly satisfied that it would not slip. At one place we crossed a deep ravine on a log about 18 inches wide, the top of which had been flattened by hewing away the rough bark. Far below a mountain torrent roared among the rocks. The scene was wild and beautiful but I must acknowledge that one rider took little interest in its charms while swinging on that frail bridge. Shortly after this we found ourselves in a valley with broad openings, the grass responding to the recent rains, was just assuming a delicate shade of green, giving the country a parklike appearance. Clumps of oak, with wide spreading branches were scat- tered over the plain, a clear stream flowed peacefully betv^^een verdant banks. Here and there we noted isolated piles of rocks overgrown with vines many of them of rich flowering varieties. Between the trees, lovely vistas stretched away to where the moun- tains rose dimly, a wall of blue flecked by the slowly moving shadows of clouds that begin to gather shortly after noon, but in all its wide extent, not a cottage was seen, not a garden plot, not a sign of human activity. In places the gnarled and twisted oaks took the form of old apple trees and so perfect was the illusion that we could not help looking for the farm house which we felt sure must be somewhere near. Here we heard the familiar whistle of the "Bobwhite," clear and shrill as in the orchards of Indiana. Night fell suddenly while we were yet wandering in this plain, where scarcely a trace of any path could be found. Being entirely unacquainted with the road, we dropped the reins and trusted our- selves to the guidance of our enterprising beasts, whose early niorning exhibition had attracted so much attention. Forty miles over rough mountain passes seemed to have a quieting effect, and the general now plodded along sedately enough. To make it worse, heavy clouds overspread the sky, the darkness became Intense, occasinal flashes of lightning and the rumble of thunder among the distant peaks added to the interest of the hour. About 9 P. M. we discovered lights ahead and we knew that we were approaching the hamlet of Santa Cruz, where we expected to overtake Moses and Aron with their train, and there we found them, comfortably swinging in their hammocks under the balcony of the chief house of the village, for in this country every home is open to the stranger. Both men were up in a moment 118 A HoosiER IN Honduras. aud our mules quickly stripped of saddles and bridles were turned loose to graze, while the good lady of the house busied herself pre- paring a supper of tortillas and eggs, with the added luxury of "cafe con leche." Although the fare was plain and the service sim- ple, I am sure a meal was never enjoyed more. Having disposed of everything in sight, we found our hammocks already swung, and fell into them with little ceremony and it is safe to say that costly couch never brought sweeter repose. So charmed were we with our first day's ride and first night's rest, that the writer determined to deliver a lecture on hammocks, but finding no opportunity, he wrote an article for the Indianapolis Journal which is clipped for this occasion. This was done several months after my A SLIGHT incline;. return from Honduras. In fact, I had been home long enough to forgets the discomforts of the trip, and only retained the pleas- ant features, and it is not reproduced here for any value it may possess in a scientific way, but simply to fill up, to ease the con- science of the writer and give him that comfortable feeling that one always has when they know they have given full measure even if the goods are below the standard. ABOUT HAMMOCKS. "Just now, while residents of the Northern States find them- selves either trudging through wastes of snow or splashing through rivers of slush, seems a good time to take up the study of the ham- mock as a mild dissipation. Hanging in the corner there, is a relic of other days. True, it is slightly torn and somewhat A HoosiER IN Honduras. 119 stained by the storms and rough usage that are a part of camp life; still it recalls vividly the scenes among which it has swung — now on the mountain height, overlooking miles and niles of sunny landscape, now in deep gorges, echoing the wild music of some unnamed waterfall, now on the deck of some ocean racer, now on shore — always our inseparable companion and unfailing friend. Probably a small proportion of the millions who daily recline in this restful contrivance have any idea of its origin. The name itself suggests a world of romance, and if we will trace its history we must leave the busy bustling times in which we live and go back through four centuries — back to the dreamy days of the Span- ish conquest, days around which the purple mists of years have gathered, half concealing the actors in a sort of rosy haze — actors whose daring audacity and reckless bravery has never been excelled in the world's history, perhaps; back to the days of chivalry, when lovely ladies were most opportunely locked up in dismal towers to wait, sadly but hopefully, for the gallant knight in flashing armor who somehow always came to the rescue just in time to save the beautiful prisoner and carry her off as a slight reward for his timely service; back to the days of Columbus and his intrepid followers, for to this enterprising genius of the fifteenth century, mankind is indebted not only for the discovery of a new world, but for the invention of a new word, for he was the first to give it a place in the Spanish vocabulary by employing it in one of his glowing reports to his royal patrons, in which he describes the "hammaca" as one of the articles manufactured by the natives of the newly discovered islands, little dreaming that the rude "sleep- ing net" would force its way to the remotest corners of the earth, and the name would be pronounced by thousands who might never hear of its illustrious discoverer, for it is a fact that a large proportion of the inhabitants of tropical countries have never heard the name of the bold navigator of the Western seas. It is uncertain whether the Indian word which the Spaniards adopted in the above form, referred to the article itself or the material from which it was made, or the manner of its use, or — who can deny it? — to the name of the inventor ! One thing, how- ever, is very certain: the Spaniards found it admirably adapted to their languid habits, and from them its use rapidly extended to other nations, until at the present time this delightful device is 120 A HoosiER IN Honduras. found in every land and is alike the solace of prince and peasant. In its restful meshes swing the high and the low, rich and poor, . christian and pagan, old and young; in its enticing folds lovers are gently swayed to the music of their young dreams, or children, charmed into forgetfulnevSs, slumber sweetly. To the writer the name has a peculiar charm, and he never sees one without being carried back, as on invisible wings, to a certain island in the sunny sea, where for months it formed his onl}^ couch, and pictures of tropical luxuriance rise before him; again he hears the murmur of the wind among the palms, between which, in the distance, the blue sea is sparkling in the bright sun- light — memories of an endless round of summer days passed in most delicious idleness, in which to swing and dream was toil enough — a few brief months when he escaped the tyranny of the "barbarous pen" and ceased for a while to "scrawl strange words" for the "dregs of men" — a time when to read was wrong, to write was worse, and his whole business was to do nothing, simply to relax every muscle, rest every overtaxed nerve; to lie as one in a trance, with eyes half closed, giving up every sense to repose; to let fancy run wild and feel under no obligation to make prisoners of his thoughts for the amusement of some distant reader, who would not so much as thank one for the tiresome task; simply to live without a thought for the morrow, cooled by the fragrant breeze, lulled by the song of strange birds, or the low, rhythmic beat of the surf on the distant bar — every desire anticipated, every sense satisfied — a land of beauty, of sunshine, of contentment — land of fruits and flowers, of love and music — land of the hammock! And so it happens that the simple invention that delights the world to-day had its origin in the brain of some unlettered savage, ages before Columbus was born; while yet the sovereigns of cul- tured Europe reclined on clumsy divans, or rested their royal per- sons in most uneasy chairs, these free sons of the forest where swinging in luxurious ease, rocked to sleep by the winds to the music of the restless waves that quarreled mildly with the coral reefs that lined the shore. But the "hammac" or "hammaca," as the Spaniards called it, was designed for utility first, pleasure after- wards, it was the outgrowth of necessity, for a country possessing every charm that the mind can conceive must needs have some opposing features, and these were found in this happy region in A HoosiER IN Honduras. 121 the form of poisonous insects of many varieties, including scor- pions, centipedes, tarantulas and other equally interesting species, which could only be eluded by swinging clear of the earth. There is little doubt the idea was first suggested by the matted vines stretched from tree to tree, like great cables, over which the mon- keys passed, or stopped to swing, the while screaming out a fierce challenge to some imaginary rival. During our extended trip through the mountains of Guate- mala and neighboring states the writer had many occasions to DOWN grade;. thank the originator of the hammock for the security he enjoyed while traveling through a country overrun with insect pests, to say nothing of the serpents that were occasionally seen in the early light gliding away from the camp, to which they had been attracted by the enticing odors sent abroad by our native cook, no doubt — all of which would have rendered sleeping on the ground extremely disagreeable, if not dangerous. In these countries the hammock forms a necessary part of every traveler's outfit, and he might as well omit saddle, blankets, leggins and spurs, all of which he might possible get along without, but the hammock — never. 122 A HoosiER IN Honduras. But do not take them with you when starting from the north, for the natives will only laugh at you for your trouble, and with good reason, for the pretty toys sold in the States would be of little value for actual service on a rough mountain journey, where the roads are but bridle paths, often leading through thorny thickets or between walls of rock barely wide enough for the passage of your mule, which offers the only means of transportation in those primi- tive countries. On the occassion referred to the writer and his com- panion had their hammocks made at the beginning of the over- laud journey by a native of wide experience in this line, and to his skill and thorough work we owed much during the months that followed. These swinging beds were made of heavy sail cloth strongly sewed, and were about twenty feet long and six feet wide in the middle, allowing the occupant to lie directly across, instead of lengthwise, thus assuring a degree of comfort impossible to attain in the narrow net with which most of us are familiar. The Mozos will hang these in five minutes and take them down in less time, rolling them up neatly with blankets enclosed, after which thej^ are carefully strapped to the back of the saddles, and you are ready to move. Delightful as the hammock is for an afternoon siesta, or a half hour's swing, it becomes very tiresome when occupied night after nio"ht for sleeping purposes, and if the writer of these remini- scences, would unflinchingly acknowledge the "truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth," he would tell you that one of the happiest hours of his life was when he beheld from the summit of a lofty pass the white walls of a city, known to possess beds of o-ood old-fashioned pattern. But the object of this paper is to remind the reader of tha humble origin of the swing which he, or she, is enjoying at this very moment, rather than to call attention to its flaws or find fault with its construction, and whether it be the coarse net of the common sailor or the silken tangle of the prince, both should remember that the pleasure they may derive from its use is due to the intelligence of a dusky hero whose name and race have perished, but whose fame this article was written to perpetuate, for which honor alone, methinks, it were worth his while to have lived. ' ' We stopped at Santa Cruz a few hours to look over a mining plant. A company of French capitalists, socalled had begun oper- A HoosiER IN Honduras. 123 ations at this place about two years before our visit, and at enormous expense, erected mills for reducing the ore. Every modern con- trivance had been introduced, all the ponderous machinery had been dragged over the mountains, months were occupied in the transportation of the powerful engines and massive boilers. At last everything was complete, and for a few weeks the village lis- tened with astonishment to the thunder of the stamps and looked with awe upon the black cloud of smoke that hung over the busy place. Wonderful stories of wealth were carried back to France, and shares rose rapidly. When the last notch had been reached, it was discovered that the ore would not pay the expense of reduc- tion, and the mine was suddenly abandoned. The managers of NATIVE POTTERY, PICKED UP AT AGUA SALAD A. the scheme, who had been living like lords, at the expense of the distant stockholders, disappeared and the whole outfit was left to the mercy of the elements. Already the moss had begun to accum- late on the roof and the contemplative buzzard rested on the stack where lately sulphurous clouds arose. Inside we found the bats in possession. Instead of the busy hum of industry, our ears were assailed by the rustling wings of these dismal tenents, , and the ominous croaking of frogs that swarmed in the waterway. It was a sad and touching sight. We knew that some innocent victims far away in sunny France had paid for all this folly. More 124 A HoosiER IN Honduras. than likely, hard working men and women, who in their anxiety to save a trifle for old age, had been lured into this investment by designing schemers, who had planned the failure before they left their native shores. There seems to be a wonderful fascination in far-away investments. Every day we find people sending to some distant dealer for goods that could be bought cheaper right at home, with every opportunity for examination. It is the element of uncertainty — the gambling instinct. Something great has been promised, and we will try a "chance," much as we go into lot- teries and all manners of games that incur risk. There is an unde- niable charm in the risk — as most of us know. But what have we to do with philosophy, with all the beauty of the tropical wilder- ness about us? Moses and Aaron and the train are miles ahead, we will follow: Each day is a repetition with a change of scene. Now toiling up the steep sides of mountains, now picking our way along the rockj^ bed of some mountain stream, now ford- ing foaming torrents, here and there coming across the hut of a native squatter, and at long intervals passing through some little hamlet, stopping at night in the cabildos, or town house, which are always open to the traveler. These build- ings are usually found on the central plaza and are regarded as common property. On arriving at a village, we immediately take possession of this public house, or such portions as are not already occupied. The Mozos swing the hammocks and build a fire on the earthern floor, then start on a canvass of the village for provis- ions, tortillas, frijoles, eggs, coffee, fruit, anything in fact that can be procured. To these supplies we added from our stock of tinned o-oods and fared very well. When the various stores had been o-athered in, Moses, who took the lead in such matters, would pro- ceed to make the coffee, warm the tortillas and boil the eggs (pro- viding they had been fortunate enough to secure any.) Mean- while we spread our blankets around the cheerful blaze, that now- illuminated the darkest corners of the windowless room. Supper over, we take a stroll around the village, stopping here and there to chat with the natives whom we found socially inclined and fond of gossip. Some of the young men and women were almost handsome. A few of the latter were very attractive indeed. Their very moderate costumes being arranged to display their charms to the best advantage. Their glossy black hair, carefully A HoosiER IN Honduras. 125 brushed, was sometimes loosely coiled but mostly hung in a luxur- iant braid tied at the end with a bit of bright ribbon. They also knew how to place a rose or other flower to the best advantage, and were by no means ignorant of the arts of the modern coquet. After sunset the inhabitants would be seen flitting from house to house, each carrying a blazing pine stick to light the way. The eflect of these swiftly passing lights is striking and adds not a lit- tle to the picturesqueness of the scene. The interior of the dwell- ings are illuminated in the same manner and the writer has penned many a note and finished many a sketch, by the flickering light of these same knots. In these primitive villages there are no rich or poor, no high or low, ever3'one owns some kind of a musical instrument, the guitar being the general favorite though accordians, harps and ^A^'Oi^y^/ \^it^:^^5i!l?^"^^^' violins are common, and among the pleasantest memories of this trip are those which recall the simple melodies of the native musicians. Their performance was doubtless crude, from an artis- tic standpoint, but I must confess, I have seldom heard anything more inspiring than some of those Spanish songs ringing out on the still night air, to the accompaniment of the harp or guitar. The language itself is musical and a certain touch of melancholly ran through them all that was very touching indeed. About 9 o'clock we returned to the cabildo and sought our hammocks, where we would swing and smoke and tell yarns until one by one we gave way to the gentle influence of the drowsy god, and with our ears filled with the melody that comes faintl}^ across the plaza, we glide imperceptable into the land of dreams. Thus we continued on our way, making an average of five or six leagues in ten hours, sometimes stopping over a daj^ or two to rest and sketch. We were always treated with the greatest 126 A HoosiER IN Honduras. kindness by the villagers. In some places we visited the native vSchools, in others we stopped to watch the women work on the panama hats, which require a great degree of skill in the weaving as well as in the preparation of the grass, which must be cut at a certain stage and cured by a certain method, which retains all the toughness and flexibility of the green product, but at the same time bleaches the long slim leaves to a snowy whiteness. These hats have a world wide reputation and will last a life time. They are so closely woven that they will hold water and are so flexible that they can be tightly rolled and packed away for months without injury. They are sold at various prices, accord- ing to the quality of material used, and care put in the work. The cheapest we could find being $1.50 and from that up to $12.00. The $1.50 hat requires a good solid week of constant work, while the finer grades will take from two to six weeks — we were told. CHAPTER VIII. A P]LBASANT SURPRISE — COI.INKS AND A WEDDING — DRINK THE BRIDES HEAIvTH AND I,OOSE OUR OWN — BEAUTIPUI, DAYS ON THE ROAD — SANTA BARBARA — HOME OP THE PRESIDENT — IvOSS OP MOSES AND AARON. Perhaps no better description of this country could be given than that contained in the pages of our old memorandum book that has already been called into service so frequently — and as the sole object of this work is to describe scenery and incidents of travel in a primitive land, the reader will excuse the introduction of these rough notes. "Pin^lejo — 9:30 p. m. After a ride of four hours we arrived at this place. Owing to the awful slowness of the Mozos (who evi- eve;ning bklls. dently had formed a strong attachment for some of the dusky beauties at I^a Pita) it was four o'clock before we left that hamlet. Scenery grand, much of the way through natural parks, the cactus now appeared in great variety, some beautiful flowering trees twenty feet in height. From the top of a mountain we had a mag- 128 A HoosiER IN Honduras. nificient view just as the sun was sinking; far below us the wide, rich plains stretched away for miles until finally walled in b_v dis- tant ranges of mountains, piled one above another until the high- est was lost among the clouds, but in all that wide expanse not a village was to be seen, not a cultivated field, not a sign of human activity. Often we ride for leagues along the "Camino Real" without seeing a hut or meeting a soul. As usual Moses and Aaron had taken possession of the best house in the village and on our arrival we found supper waiting. An elegant meal lay on a white cloth with plates, knives and spoons ! It was like a dream. We were astonished, and with good reason — but we were still more surprised, and pleased not a little when we learned that we we enjoying the hospitality of Dr. Bogran and famil3^ The doctor is a brother of the President and one of the wealthiest and most influential citizens of the republic. We had been riding five whole days through his territor}- Aaron informed us. Mrs. Bogran and her charming daughters proved themselves royal entertainers and with music and mirth the even- ing passed all to swiftly. This gives an idea of the heart}- whole- souled character of these people. They insisted that we should stop and rest a day, but we declined the kind invitation and parted with regret — on our part. August 11. — About 3 p. M. we met a certain Senior Salvador Paredis, with w^hom my traveling companion had stopped on his last trip to the capitol, and, although on his waj'^ to Belize, he in- sisted that we should make his house our headquarters during our stay in the village, which was only about a league ahead. So it happens that we are again located in the largest and finest place in the town, Senor Salvador being a prosperous merchant and grower of coffee. When we approached this house I w^as somewhat sur- prised to see the mozos lead the mules in the front door. We fol- lowed without dismounting, and passed through a store room into a court yard where we were met by the Senora and several mem- bers of the family. They seemed genuinely glad to see us. At this place we saw for the first time the curassaw, or native wild tur- key, in a state of domestication these handsome birds are almost as large as their northern cousins, and are greatly esteemed for the table, consequently the native hunters have almost exterminated them, and the bird is now rarely met with except in poultry yards, where it seems to feel perfectly at home. A HoosiER IN Honduras. 129 lyike most villages, this has no hotel but every house is open to the stranger. A boy is just now preparing coffee for our dinner. He has a large wooden block hollowed out like a mortar. In addition to that he is armed with a heavy pestle. With these crude tools he will shell out enough for two or three meals. From here we can see a number of coffee plantations on the slopes of the mountains. August 12. — ^Just passed a train of 24 mules laden with coffee, two huge sacks to each beast, they were bound for San Pedro. This shipment was destined for the U. S. Market. Much the larger portion of the crop finds its way to Kngland, France and Germany. The climate of Santa Barbara seems especially adapted to the successful cultivation of coffee, and the industry is rapidly extending. The coffee of this district enjoys so great a reputation in London that a very small proportion finds its way to the states ; however an occassional consignment is shipped to New York by some intrepid trader, whose reward for his bravery is increased reputation and profits, as this product rivals the finest Arabian beans; while experts declare its flavor to excel that of the best eastern brands. One can hardly immagine a prettier sight than a well kept cof- fee plantation. The trees, which are planted in long straight rows, are carefully pruned to a height of about eight feet, thus enabling the pickers to reach the topmost branches from a low stool. The glossy leaves are bright green, the flowers white as snow, diffuse a delightful odor. Where the climate is favorable the trees yield 130 A HoosiER IN Honduras, their first crop the third year from planting, so that its cultivation- offers a tempting field to investors, and it is not surprising that a large amount of American capital has been drawn this way. How- ever, the largest proportion of these pioneers, have located in Nic- aragua which offers better shipping facilities, if not a more stable government. As the tree flowers from seven to nine months, the fruit ripena very unequally, for this reason the crop is gathered semi-annually, and in some cases, three times a year. If the tree is handsome when in full bloom it is no less so when covered with the deep crimson berries, which remind one somewhat of cherries, though they are larger and oblong, hanging in clusters. The tree flourishes best at an elevation of 1000 to 4000 feet, with a moist climate, and an average temperature of about 70 de grees. These conditions prevail in this district, which is in fact the ideal coffee region of America. Only two things afe necessary to the development of the industry in Honduras, the first is a gov- ernment that will enjoy the confidence of prospective investors, the second, the completion of the long contemplated railroad from Puerto Cortez to the pacific, this would give a port on either coast, with better facilities for speedy transportation than are now, en- joyed by any of the smaller republics, and would insure a large and every way desirable class of emigrants. August 13. — We found use for our "slickers" to-day, being caught in a sudden shower, but thanks to these huge water proof coats, we did not get wet. A slicker to be of use in a trip like this must be large enough to cover saddle, blankets and all. Ours answered every requirement. They are made of two thicknesses. of heavy muslin, thoroughly saturated with fish oil, are of a bright yellow color and shine as though varnished. The}'' are not frag- rant, but turn water like glass. August 14. — Have just stopped a few minutes to note a flock of buzzards that are so tame that one can approach within six feet before they will move, then they shamble off awkwardly, and if closely pursued will fly a few feet rising with considerable effort,, giving a grunt of dissatisfaction. When they alight they have ta run a few steps to get their balance. They are very clumsy on the ground, but once in the air their flight is most graceful. We often see large numbers at an immense height, describing huge A HoosiER IN Honduras. 131 • circles, often disappearing in the clouds, then reappearing far above, mere black specks against the deep blue. It is against the law to shoot these birds. First offense $25.00 fine; second offense fine and imprisonment: third, death I presume, though I have no authority for the assumption; however, it is a righteous law, for if it were not for the services of these industrious animals the poor natives would have to bury their dead mules, cows etc., which would require an amount of exertion quite unbecoming a Hondur- anian. August 15. — We are the guests of Senor Jose Galindo. His house consists of four poles set in the ground with a high sloping roof of palm leaves. The sides are open to allow ventilation. Jose is standing over in the corner talking to a woman. He is wrapped in an ugly stripped blanket and looks for all the world like an Egyptian Mummy revived. He don't know I am talking about him, if he did he would probably carve me into small bits with his huge machete, which he has just sharpened. While writing these lines a moth- erly old hen hopped from a beam overhead directly on my lap, where she rest- ed a moment, calmly con- templating the scene, and doubtless deliberating as to lier next move. These use- ful fowls are allowed the range of the house, as are %tvrtlo/^ \a^ V.o^ <\(,\y^\eMnrvi