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 r" *' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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I. Wahsatch Mountains. 
 
 3A I T LAKE CIT 
 
 President Brigham Young's School-liouse. 3. Citj' Hall. 4. Sion House. ^ Theatre. 6. St; 
 
LOOKING SOUTH, 
 
 ws Office. 8, .ik; 1 emple Street. 9. 1-ound.ition of Temple. .10. New Tabernacle. 11. Overflowed Banjjs of River Jordan. 
 
JS'elsons' ^ictorial Guide-Books. 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY 
 
 A SKETCH OF THE ROUTE OF THE UNION AND CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROADS, FROM OMAHA 
 TO SALT LAKE CITY, AND FROM OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 WITH TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY C. R. SAVAGE. 
 
 ;* O J O ' 1 
 
 T. NELSON AND SONS, 42 BLEECKER STREET, NEW '^''ORK. 
 
 ^ ,' •> ' > . . 
 
 C. R. SAVAGE, SALT LAKE C;TV: '" , ' '. s'-JVl' J'* "''* ''o ''° 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Across the Continent" — 
 
 
 Bear Eiver Bridge, 
 
 .. 12 
 
 The trnion Pacific Railroad, 
 
 . 3 
 
 Utah Central Eailroad, . .. 
 
 .. 13 
 
 Chicago, .. .. • 
 
 . 3 
 
 Salt Lake City — 
 
 
 Omaha, 
 
 . 5 
 
 Its Extent and Situation, 
 
 .. 14 
 
 The Western Prairies, 
 
 . 5 
 
 The Temple, 
 
 .. 15 
 
 The Coimtry Traversed, . . 
 
 . 6 
 
 The Tabernacle, . . 
 
 .. 16 
 
 Fort Bridger, 
 
 . 8 
 
 The Tlieatre 
 
 .. 10 
 
 Echo Canyon, 
 
 . 8 
 
 The City Hall, 
 
 .. 17 
 
 Down Weber Canyon, 
 
 . 9 
 
 The Bench, 
 
 .. 17 
 
 The Weber Bridge at Ogden, 
 
 . 12 
 
 President Young's House, 
 
 .. 18 
 
 Places to Visit — 
 
 Great Salt Lake, . . 
 
 Ensign Peak, 
 
 Warm and Hot Springs, 
 
 Cottonwood Lake, 
 
 Utah Valley and Lake,i 
 
 Sweet Water Kiver, 
 
 Snake or Lewis River, 
 From Ogden to San Francisco, 
 Utah Territory, .. 
 
 19 
 21 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 23 
 24 
 26 
 30 
 
 STATISTICS: UTAH, AND SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
 [The census returns from Utah for 1870 show the population 
 of theTerritory to be 86,786. Great Salt Lake County con- 
 tains 'ISViSf" in!iabita'n,V,s,' 'Pijite Coimtyis. vetuinsd as having 
 no pDpU'I'aMon, 'Hs'.i'n.'iia'u'iljahts Iraving lean .(?.rivcn out by 
 Indians! 'iJtah COuilty' iius" a; •popnlaiion hf. 12/243. Salt 
 
 Lake City, in Great Salt Lake County, has a population of 
 17,282, those born in the United States numbering 10,214, 
 and in other countries 7008. The population of Montana is 
 20,594. This number may be slightly increased by wliites 
 living on Indian reservations.] 
 
 • ' , ('ii^ ' 
 
 
 •p.^t.B Geoi.Snr, 
 
 2tJI'03 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 I .-" ACROSS THE CONTINEN T." 
 
 [Via the Union and Central Pacific Railroads.] 
 
 The journey "Across the Continent" is very different, 
 now that the various divisions of the Pacific Railroad are 
 completed, to what it was a few years ago. Then the 
 "trip" occupied from ten to thirty days between the 
 Missouri River and Salt Lake City, according to the sea- 
 son of the year, or the successful assiduity of the Indians 
 on the plains in burning "stations," carrying off horses 
 and mules, imperilling the lives of travellers, and other- 
 wise making themselves unpleasantly notorious. iVoi« 
 the distance is accomplished by rail in about fifty hours— 
 in saloon carriages luxuriously fitted up, provided with 
 refreshment bars, and with elegant berths for the accom- 
 modation of tounsts. Yet the old route was not altogether 
 an unpleasant one, especially to those who like a dash ot 
 excitement in their pleasure ; and it had the advantage 
 
 (41) 
 
 of affordinc time to the traveller for the contemplation of 
 the beautiful scenery which he encountered on the route. 
 
 But nous avons change tout cda. Everybody now-a- 
 days goes by rail ; and the steam-car, with wonderful 
 regularity, dashes across the immense expanse of the 
 continent conveying curious visitors or busy merchants 
 or daring adventurers to the stronghold of Mormonism in 
 the one direction, or the "Golden Gate" and splendul 
 shore of the Pacific. , „ , o. . -n 
 
 The traveller, coming from the Northern btates, will 
 probably select Chicago as his starting-point. 
 
 Chicao-o is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary 
 instances of the rapidity of American development. It 
 is the principal city of Illinois, and situated at the south- 
 western extremity of Lake Michigan, and at the mouth 
 
THITHER. 
 
 of the Chicago River, in lat. 41° 52' N., and long. 
 87° 35' W. Of Indian origin, and pronounced Shu- 
 kaw-go, it is first mentioned by Perrot, a Frenchman, 
 who visited the spot in 1671. A small military station, 
 called Dearborn, was erected here in 1803, but destroyed 
 bv the Indians in 1812. It was afterwards rebuilt in 
 1816. 
 
 It was sixteen years later before American enterprise 
 appreciated the advantages of the position; and in 1832, 
 with the exception of the otlicers and soldiers, it did not 
 contain above a dozen families. In the following year a 
 town was organized by the election of a Board of Trus- 
 tees. On the 26th of September following, the surround- 
 ing territory was purchased of the Pottawattomies, seven 
 thousand of whom were transported west of the Missis- 
 sippi River. The city obtained its first charter in 1837. 
 At tha.t date its population was about 2000 ; but its faci- 
 lities for becoming a vast grain depot were so obvious 
 that settlers flocked to the new city from all parts of the 
 United States, and its growth became so rapid as to sur- 
 pass any previous instance in the history of the world. 
 A population of 2000 has increased in thirty-five years — 
 a single generation — to 170,000. It is the emporium of 
 the navigation of the great lakes; the imports and ex- 
 I'orts amounting to about 470,000 tuns, whose value pro- 
 bably exceeds $5,820,000. Nearly 6000 miles of railway 
 centre in this extraordinary capital of Western ccmuierce. 
 It has its universities, medical colleges, theological, lite- 
 
 (41) 
 
 rary, and scientific institutes, churches, chapels, public 
 schools, private schools and seminaries, and all the ad- 
 denda of a great city. One drawback is, that its 
 surrounding scenery is tame and uninteresting, tlie town 
 being situated on a level, or nearly a level, which never 
 varies more than from five to twenty-four feet above 
 the lake. 
 
 Lut the traveller need not start from Chicago unless 
 he likes. He may commence his great Western tour at 
 St. Louis, the terminus of the Ohio and Mississippi 
 Railway; or at Springfield, the junction-point of the 
 Toledo, Wabash, and Western, with the Chicago, Alton, 
 and St. Louis. But whatever route he takes, he will 
 find himself eventually deposited at Omaha, on the Mis- 
 souri River— the focus of au amazing network of rail- 
 ways, and the actual point of departure of the Union 
 Pacific Railroad. 
 
 The principal lines which converge to this flourishing 
 town are :— 
 
 1. The Dubuque and Sinux City. 
 
 2. The Chicago and North-Western. 
 
 3. The Chicago, Rock Island, and Pacific. 
 
 4. The Burlington and Missouri. 
 
 5. The St. Joseph and Council Bluffs, which unites 
 the Hannibal and St. Joseph, the Missouri and Pacific, 
 and the Kansas and Pacific — the latter a main line of 
 railway, which is intended to be carried -as far as Denver, 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 anJ there uuite with a branch to Cheyenne, ou the Uuiou 
 Pacific. 
 
 Of Omaha it is enough to say that it is destined 
 to expand into very considerable ijroportions. It is 
 connected by railway with tlie principal towns of Illi- 
 nois, Kentucky, Colorado, and Kansas ; has a large river 
 trade; and is an important prairie depot. It is situ- 
 ated on the right bank of the Missouri, opposite Council 
 Bluffs, and twenty miles northward of the mouth of the 
 River Nebraska. 
 
 On leaving Omaha, our course, as far as Macpherson, 
 lies on the northern bank of the Platte liiver, which we 
 ascend to its point of confluence at Cheyenne, where the 
 North Platte unites in one broad channel with the smaller 
 stream of the South Platte : the former rising far away 
 in the highlands of Wyoming ; the latter in Colorado, to 
 the south of Denver. 
 
 The principal stations we pass are Fremont, Columbus, 
 Grand Island, Kearney, Brady Island, and North Platte. 
 Above this point we continue our route to Cheyenne, by 
 way of Julesburg, Sidney, and Pine Bluffs. None of 
 these places have attained as yet to a degree of import- 
 ance which justifies description. Many consist only of 
 a collection of log huts ; which, indeed, are scattered 
 here and there along the line wherever the game is 
 abundant or the soil offers a favourable opportunity fur 
 tillage. 
 
 (41) 
 
 The really remarkable feature of this part of our jour- 
 ney is the prairie scenery, which unfolds far and wide on 
 either hand. Yet the prairies are not what English 
 people are so apt to think them — immense level and 
 monotonous plains, thickly covered with grass and buffa- 
 loes; but vast rolling uplands, which rise from the Kan- 
 sas River to the Rocky Mountains in a series of ascending 
 billows, always of a gentle ascent, and often of an enor- 
 mous sweep. The creeks and inlets branching from the 
 rivers are fringed with walnut, oak, and hickory : the 
 hollows are bright with marigolds, shamrocks, and sun- 
 flowers, which clothe the ground with a warm golden 
 splendour. The air is warm, and interpenetrated with 
 fragrance ; the sky a deep soft blue, occasionally relieved 
 by patches of snow-white cloud. For leagues and leagues 
 tiie picture is as rich in colour as it is majestic in out- 
 line ; and were not the traveller occasionally aroused by 
 the terrors of a prairie storm, he might begin to think 
 himself in an enchanted laud, which Nature had dowered 
 with all her richest gifts. 
 
 But as we recede further and yet further from the Mis- 
 souri, as we strike deeper into the solitudes of the great 
 continent, the landscape loses its brilliancy : wooded 
 knolls and flowery ridges give place to vast bi'eadtlis of 
 rolling uplands, where the wolf creeps along its insidious 
 track, and the rattlesnake lies coiled among the thick 
 herbage, and the pioneer's path, as he strolls along, gun 
 and axe in hand, is marked out before him by the bleached 
 
6 
 
 SAXT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 skeletons of dead animals. Tlie scene would be almost 
 wearisome but for its frequent atmospheric changes, and 
 for the occasional appearance of a group of antelopes or a 
 herd of buffaloes. One of the plagues of the prairies is 
 the dry fierce wind ; another, the sudden inrush of clouds 
 of grasshoppers, which, like the locusts of Egypt, con- 
 sume every green thing before them. No one who has 
 not travelled on the prairie, says Lieutenant Warren, 
 can appreciate the magnitude of the swarms. Frequently 
 tiiey fill the air for many miles of extent, so that an 
 inexperienced eye can scarcely distinguish their appear- 
 ance from that of a heavy shower of rain or the shifting 
 smoke of a prairie fire. Their flight is frequently at an 
 elevation of from 1400 to 1500 feet above the surface of 
 the earth ; but they descend to within a few inches, and 
 settle on the vegetation of the plain like a universal 
 blight. To a person standing in one of these swarms as 
 they whirl over and around him, the air becomes percep- 
 tibly darkened, and the sound produced by their wings 
 resembles that of the passage of a train of cars on a railroad 
 when you are about two or three hundred yards from the 
 track. This plague seems to be the main impediment 
 in tke way of man's colonizing and tilling the prairies. 
 
 Leaving Cheyenne — one of the most important stations 
 on the Union Pacific — we soon come in sight of Fort 
 Russell, on the Crow Creek. It is the largest fort in the 
 West. 
 
 (4i: 
 
 The distance from Cheyenne to Laramie is only fifty- 
 seven miles ; but the ascent is not less than 1082 feet, 
 Laramie being 7123 feet above the sea-level. Up this 
 toilsome acclivity the locomotive cannot travel at any 
 considerable speed ; but the slower rate of progress does 
 but afford the traveller more time for the contemplation 
 of the grand and unusual features of the scenery around 
 him. To the north-west rolls the range of the Black 
 Hills, with sharp-pointed peaks rising some 2000 feet 
 above the general level. To the south is visible the 
 massy chain of the Rocky Mountains, the great barrier 
 which separates the prairie region from the Pacific litto- 
 ral. Looking eastward, along the tract we have passed, 
 we see it stretching far away to the dim horizon as one 
 vast plain : even the hills of a thousand feet in height 
 seem but a speck in the distance. 
 
 Sir Walter Scott tells us of the beautiful ruins of Mel- 
 rose Abbey, that -to see them aright they should be seea 
 by the "pale moonlight;" and this part of the railway 
 journey across the continent should also be accomplished 
 when the scene is lit up by the radiance of the moon. 
 Thus a recent traveller writes : — 
 
 " The moon is shining brightly as we climb these 
 everlasting hills. Her mellow light gives a softness to 
 the view; the air is pure and invigorating; and with 
 hearts swelling with grandeur at the sight of those en- 
 during monuments of God's greatness; "we drink in the 
 prospect in silent, heartfelt rapture. In view of these 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 let us be dumb ; for silence is most becoming to us, the 
 creatures of a day, in the presence of these rocky crea- 
 tures, which will continue to lift their tall heads to the 
 sky when we and all like us are mouldering in the 
 dust." 
 
 At Sherman we reach the summit-level of the 
 railway — the highest point which we cross in the 
 Rocky Mountains — an elevation above the ocean of 8242 
 feet. 
 
 Then we begin our descent towards the Pacific, every 
 mile exhibiting to us some novel feature in a panorama 
 of inexhaustible interest. "Here, to our right, rises far 
 above his fellows a bald-headed mountain of rock ; to the 
 left, mountains of rock heaped upon mountains of rock 
 meet the eye everywhere ; and all around are rugged, 
 craggy, precipitous rocks — barren of grass, or leaf, or 
 tree — and deep-yawning chasms, through which the 
 flashing stream leaps on its merry way. We strike across 
 bridges of such a height that it turns one dizzy to look 
 down into the awful depth below." 
 
 Now we come to a plateau on whose grassy summit the 
 red rocks rise, in tower, spire, and pyramid, to a height 
 of thi'ee and four hundred feet. Everywhere there is 
 something to arrest the eye, to strike the imagination, 
 and to remind one of the wisdom and infinite power of 
 the Architect who built up the mountain-crests and rent 
 their sides with profoundest chasms. 
 
 Ull 
 
 On a mountain-sheltered plain is situated Laramie, 
 the largest town in Wyoming Territory. Fort Sanders is 
 three miles distant : it has a mud fort and several block 
 houses. To the westward the mountains attain an ele- 
 vation of 13,000 feet. 
 
 Passing Medicine Bow, on one of the small branches 
 of the North Platte, we descend to Rawlings ; thence to 
 Black Buttes and Rocky Point ; after which, leaving the 
 Salt Wells on our right, we cross the Green River — a 
 winding, rapid stream, affording capital sport to the 
 angler, if any solitary disciple of Izaak Walton should 
 wander into its valley. At liryan we strike Black Fork, 
 a branch of the Green River, which we follow for seve- 
 ral miles ; with the white plains, whitened by alkaline 
 incrustations, only sparsely relieved by sage-bushes and 
 stunted willows. 
 
 Towards the south rise the Uintah Mountains, with 
 the River Uintah at their base. This point is nearly 
 midway between Green River Town and the junction of 
 the Green River with the Colorado. 
 
 We now skirt the banks of the Big Muddy for nearly 
 fifty miles, crossing and recrossing it according to the 
 devices of the railway engineers. Its valley seems every- 
 where covered with sage-brush and grease- wood, and its 
 only inhabitants are an innumerable colony of squirrels. 
 
 At 886 miles from Omaha— the great eastern terminus 
 of the Union Pacific— and at 888 miles from Sacramento, 
 we arrive at Church Buttes— so called from the red-sand- 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 stone masses on the summit of the mountains, which at 
 a little distance present the appearance of hundreds of 
 churches, with tall pointed spires. 
 
 Next we pass Fort Eridger, surrounded by many- 
 coloured rocks. It was here that three regiments of 
 United States soldiers, under command of Albert Sidney 
 Johnson, who had been despatched in 1857 to chastise the 
 Mormons, endured such severe sufferings. Imprisoned 
 by the deep winter snows in the heart of the mountjiius, 
 their commissary train captured by the Mormons, they 
 were compelled to kill and eat their mules, and even to 
 boil and eat the mules' skins. Hundreds perished of 
 cold and hunger ; and even when the summer loosened 
 their chains, no provisions from the States reached them 
 until the following September. 
 
 We have not yet got clear of the spurs and buttresses 
 of the Rocky Mountains. To avoid heavy cuttings and 
 abrupt gradients, we are continually winding round the 
 base of grassy hills. In the front as in the rear still rise 
 the snowy peaks. The cuttings are covered with a heavy 
 roof of timber, to prevent them from being filled up with 
 the snow in the midst of winter. On the acclivities 
 around us Indians are constantly making their appear- 
 ance; sometimes singly, sometimes in pairs and groups ; 
 sometimes standing or reclining, sometimes urging their 
 horses to full gallop. 
 
 Crossing the Bear River — it abounds in trout and other 
 fish, and rises sixty miles away to the south in the Uin- 
 
 (41J 
 
 tah and Wahsatch Mountains — we reach Bear City. It 
 is situated as romantically as a poet could wish, — in the 
 sweet bosom of a valley, whose rich verdure brightly con- 
 trasts with the gray, naked, barren, and rugged moun- 
 tains. The charm and beauty of contrast is very strik- 
 ingly felt. 
 
 In some places of this valley — let us note as a fact — 
 the grasshoppers are so numerous that it is impossible to 
 place the point of a pin on the ground without touching 
 them. "An eastward-bound train," says a traveller, 
 " which has just come in to Wahsatch, is i)rovided with 
 evergreen brooms, covering the cowcatcher and brushing 
 the track, to sweep off the grasshoppers. The engineer 
 of our train informs me, that at times they are so numer- 
 ous on the track as to be crushed to death by thousands : 
 hence they make the driving-wheels and track so greasy 
 that trains are often two or three hours behind their 
 time." We state this fact on the authority of a corre- 
 spondent of the New Jersey Journal. 
 
 We now hurry through Echo Canyon (or Canon), one 
 of the sublimest, and yet, too, one of the loveliest, scenes 
 we Americans have to boast of. Picture to yourself, 
 reader, a deep rocky ravine, some seven miles in 
 length, and, at its head, from one-half to three-quarters 
 of a mile in width. On the right hand it is flanked by 
 bold, precipitous, buttressed cliffs, from three hundred 
 to eight hundi-ed feet hi^jh, denuded and water-worn by 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE 'U'Ay THITHEB. 
 
 9 
 
 the storms which rage against them during the southerly' 
 gales. Tlieir strata lie inclined at an angle of 45°, from 
 N.E. to S.W. The opposite side, sheltered from furious 
 ■winds and driving tempests of rain, is formed by a suc- 
 cession of swelling verdurous hills or sloping masses of 
 rock, profusely clothed with grass and mosses. In the 
 liollow between them rolls a bright transparent stream. 
 Incessantly at work, it has excavated for its waters a 
 channel some twenty feet below the surface. At certain 
 parts a rocky ledge or a pile of boulders vexes it into 
 madness, until, gathering itself up like an athlete, it 
 clears the obstacle in one swift and sudden bound. About 
 lialf-way down, the ravine narrows to a mere defile, where 
 the stream grows wilder, and the banks are steeper, and 
 the vegetation flourishes more thickly. The lofty cliffs 
 on the right are here broken up into a variety of fantastic 
 outlines : pyramids and pinnacles, spires and towers, 
 battlemented fortresses and ruined cathedrals — the wliole 
 resembling a fairy vision, embodied in stone, which 
 might furnish the imagination of poet or artist with in- 
 exhaustible material. 
 
 Near the end of Echo Canyon, and on the summit of 
 rocky heights a thousand feet above the valley, are the 
 remains of the fortifications prepared by the Mormons 
 against the expedition threatened by the Government 
 several years ago. A sudden access of anti-Mormonism 
 liad seized upon the east, and to pacify it, says Ludlow, 
 it was suggested that troops should be sent to break up 
 
 (41) 
 
 the Mormon settlements. But this was not done, — the 
 Mormons were not once attacked, — only a body of our 
 regulars, termed an array of observation, posted them- 
 selves at Camp Floyd, thirty-nine miles from Salt Lake 
 City, and there remained, much to the mortification of 
 the more eager Mormons. The feeling between troops 
 and saints was, however, of a moderately cordial character, 
 and every day was the occasion for some interchange of 
 courtesies. Still, the fortifications were an established 
 fact, and it is noticeable that the place selected for their 
 erection is really a dangerous locality for warlike opera- 
 tions. The defile is vei'y narrow, the bare red walls rise 
 perpendiculai'ly ; and had Brigham Young been able to 
 fulfil his intention of showering down upon our men grape 
 and shrapnell from guns hung slanting over the edge of the 
 precipice, sweeping them with similar missiles from each 
 end of the defile, an army of the size of Johnson's would 
 have been crushed with wonderful ease and celerity. We 
 calculate that neither Grant nor Sherman would be likely 
 to let their men into such a murderous trap. 
 
 Passing the celebrated Pulpit Rock, we enter, eight 
 miles below Echo, the Weber Canyon, which almost sur- 
 passes the Echo in its sublimity of character. All along 
 the valley flows the Weber or Webber River, exqui.sitely 
 clear and cold. It I'ises near the source of the Bear 
 River, and after a curiously winding north-westerly career, 
 falls into the Great Salt Lake, a few miles south of its 
 sister- stream, and nearly opposite Fremont's Island. 
 
10 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AXD THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 THE rULPIT ROCK. 
 
 Two miles down the Canyon are the Witches' Kocks, 
 weird aud wild-looking, and wearing a fanciful resem- 
 blance to those dreaded and much-abused "powers" of a 
 dark age of ignorance and superstition. 
 
 Some six miles further, and at the point called the 
 "Narrows," may be seen a lone pine tree on the river 
 (41) 
 
 THE WITCHES' ROCKS, IN THE WEBER CANYON'. 
 
 bank. The traveller can hardly fail to notice it, for no 
 kindred trees are near it, above it, below it, or on either 
 side ; and this memorial of a remote antiquity was found 
 — the fact, though strange, is true — to be exactly one 
 thousand miles from the Missouri River by the Pacific 
 Raili'oad. It bears aboard, with the inscription, " One 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE \YAY THITHER. 
 
 11 
 
 Thousand Mile Tree," telling the traveller how far he has 
 journeyed on his way to the " Dead Sea of the Western 
 World," or the " Golden Gate of the Pacific." 
 
 Below this, on the left of the river, and stretching 
 down the mountain-side, is a large slate rock, grooved 
 down the centre like an arm of a centrifugal railway, and 
 known unto all men by the name of the " Devil's Slide." 
 Assuredly no individual but he after whom it is entitled 
 Could accomplish the descent. 
 
 The mountains here seem to overlap each other, the 
 river making sharp abrupt turns round the projecting 
 angles. Through these are excavated the third and fourth 
 lunnels of the Pacific Railroad 
 
 Within three miles of the mouth of Weber's Canyon, 
 Devil's Gate, and the station so-called, are passed. The 
 river strikes away on the right from the railroad track, 
 and is soon lost to the view of the passengers, whose 
 train sweeps through a deep and narrow gorge in the 
 massive rock, which, on one side, rises perpendicularly 
 some eighty or ninety feet ; on the other towers aloft, in 
 luountainous grandeur, with grim shadows seeking to 
 shut out the sunlight. 
 
 Passing through Ogden Canyon, and by Ogden, a small 
 but rising township, we reach the borders of the Salt 
 Lake. A small branch-line conducts us from Ogden to 
 Salt Lake City. 
 
 But, first, let us take a view of the great basin of this 
 Dead Sea of the New World. 
 
 ■ HI] 
 
 At the foot of the snowy summits of the Wah^^ateh 
 range, stretching far away into dim regions of mist 
 and shadow, lies what has, in picturesque phraseology, 
 been called the Happy Valley. In the full splendour of 
 a tropical sun, it certainly looks irradiant ; for the fields 
 glow with the gold of the yellow suntiowers, the ridges 
 are purple with moss, and a fiery lustre lies on the lake- 
 lets, streams, and pools ; the cultivated land, a narrow 
 strip, waves with crops of grain ; and westward shines 
 the expanse of the Salt Lake, enclosed by a line of dim 
 blue mountains, called in Indian latiguage the Oquirrh. 
 The lake itself, about 120 miles in length, and 45 in 
 breadth, sleeps in deep purple shadows, broken and ir- 
 regular, which are themselves the reflection of the broken 
 irregular summit-line of the sierras of Utah and Nevada; 
 and it bears on its bosom a few isles and islets, to which, 
 it is probable, distance lends an enchantment that is not 
 fairly theirs. 
 
 The air is soft and genial in the summer and autumn 
 seasons, and is so transparent that objects afar seem 
 brought startlingly near us. Antelope Island, which lies 
 twenty miles to the west, you would think but an hour's 
 journey. 
 
 The undulating plain, or valley, dips in the centre 
 " like the section of a tunnel," and ri.ses on ei-ther hand 
 into "benches" or terraces, which mark the gradual fall 
 of the lake- waters in long distant ages. In some parts the 
 valley retains its old verdant character ; in others, when 
 
12 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 the sun strikes full upon it, it warms into a tawny red, 
 like the sands of Arabia, but relieved by leafy clumps, 
 and brightened by the wave of the Jordan, as it Hows 
 through the pastures and corn-fields painfully cukivated 
 by the hand of man. 
 
 The traveller, coming either from the East or the West 
 to Salt L;ike City, leaves the cars of the Pacific Railroad 
 at Ogden, to take those of the Utah Central, thirty-six 
 miles from Salt Lake City. The terminus of the Utah 
 Central is situated on the east side of the Weber River, 
 across which a substantial railway bridge has been con- 
 structed. 
 
 A few days can be profitably and pleasantly passed in 
 this locality. Ogden itself, to which we have already re- 
 ferred, is the junction-point of the Union Pacific and 
 Central Railroads, contains between 6000 and 7000 in- 
 habitants, and is situated between the Ogden and Weber 
 Rivers, the town being built partly on the " bench" and 
 partly on the " bottom level" beneath. Like all Mor- 
 mon, or semi-Mormon towns, Ogden contains a consider- 
 able proportion of Easterners — its streets are wide, with 
 streams of water, required for irrigating purposes, ear- 
 rietl along the side-walks. The houses are mostly small, 
 built of adobe, and embowered in orchards. 
 
 The Wahsatch range, at whose western base Ogden 
 is situated, stretches away to the north and south, its 
 gray peaks rising in solemn grandeur over the valley and 
 
 (41) 
 
 lake. Eight miles north of Ogden lie some of tiie hot 
 springs so numerous in this Territory; and five miles 
 further, there are distinct indications of a volcanic agency 
 which cannot have been long extinct. 
 
 Thirty-two miles north of Ogden, on the road to Mon- 
 tana, is the Bear River Bridge. 
 
 Large flocks of wild geese, ducks, and teal, esj>ecially 
 in autumn, on the river, and an abundance of trout and 
 other fish within it; rambles over the mountains, and 
 l)racing rides across the broad prairie of the Lower MalaJ 
 Valley, render it an agreeable sojourn for those who seek 
 health and sport with gun and line. 
 
 About four miles from the Bridge may be seen a re- 
 markable instance of " hydraulic force." The mountain 
 gorges so approach each other that the water is completely 
 jammed in, and roars and brawls, and leaps and dashi-s 
 against huge masses of rock, which are known as "devil's 
 gates" in the Rocky Mountain region. There is another 
 such in the Valley of the Sweet Water, a few miles west 
 of Independence Rock ; another, as already pointed out, 
 in Weber Canyon, crossed by the Pacific Railroad ; and 
 the one we are now describing on Bear River. This, 
 perhaps, is the most romantic, — a narrow neck of the 
 river jutting across the pathway, and forcing it to make a 
 sharp curvature where the mountain dips into the water 
 on one side, and the rocks rise perpendicularly for eighty 
 or ninety feet on the other. Standing on these rocks and 
 looking up the river, the mountain-sides slope, clothed in 
 
SALT LAKE CITT, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 13 
 
 wood to its very margin ; while tlie gradual narrowing of 
 the gorge, and the vast masses of rock in tlie river-bed, 
 impel it with the rush of a host of maddened steeds, 
 broken from bit and rein, and dashing wildly towards an 
 imaginary goal. 
 
 But we must return to Ogden, and take our seats in 
 a car on the Utah Central Railroad, for Salt Lake City, 
 tliirty-six miles. For about twelve miles the line runs 
 over what is known as the " Sand Ridge," a long sandy 
 swell, where sage-brush, rabbit-brush, sunflowers, and 
 similar vegetation, with occasional patches of succulent 
 grass, reign undisturbed by plough or water-ditch, much 
 of it being too elevated for the ordinary means of irriga- 
 tion. 
 
 A fine view of the Great Salt Lake, with Antelope, Fre- 
 mont, Stansbury, Carrington, Dolphin, and Hat Islands, is 
 here obtained ; a span of horizon of over a hundred miles in 
 extent from north to south being opened up to the gaze 
 of traveller and tourist, with scenery which combines the 
 chief elements of loveliness and sublimity — loveliness in- 
 ferior, but akin to that of the Bay of Naples, with a 
 magnificence not unworthy of the Swiss Alps. 
 
 Sunset upon the lake is, during the summer months, 
 one of the most brilliant spectacles the eye could ever 
 hope to see, so gorgeously rich is the colouring, when 
 peak and canyon are bathed in "the dying halo of de- 
 parting day." 
 
 (41) 
 
 Twenty-two miles of the line froin Kaysville South 
 crosses the most fertile portion of the valley, the gener- 
 ous soil yielding profitable crops of every product grown 
 in this latitude; while cereals and root-crops ate very 
 large, the fruit — including apples, peaches, plums, apri- 
 cots, grapes, and smaller kinds, with melons, squashes, 
 pumpkins, and similar products— being especially fine. 
 
 Tlie lake, sleeping in the shadow of its mountainous 
 islands, or reflecting the glory of a cloudless and sunlit 
 sky, stretches away to the right ; dreamy-looking valleys, 
 buried in purple haze, and crowned by towering ranges 
 of mountains, whose peaks, snow-cajtped even in mid- 
 summer, soar above the clouds ; while to the left lie 
 well-cultivated and fertile farming lands, with orchards 
 and gardens encircling the settlements of Kaysville, 
 Farmington, Centreville, and Bountiful, and running 
 alons the base of the Wahsatch range. 
 
 Within about five miles of Salt Lake City, the railroad 
 reaches the Hot Spring Lake, fed by the celebrated 
 Springs. It forms a beautiful little sheet of water, 
 nearly three miles long and upwards of a mile broad, 
 whose calm surface is scarcely rippled by the flocks of 
 wild ducks and geese floating so lazily upon it. A small 
 inlet or creek of this lake is traversed by the railway ; and 
 the cars, speeding through the pasture-land north of the 
 city, and past the Warm Spring Baths, soon reach the 
 terminus in what lias poetically been called the "Jeru- 
 salem of the West." 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 II.-SALT LAKE CITY- 
 
 All travellers acjree to recognize the admirable skill 
 with wliioh the Mormon leaders have selected the site 
 and developed the plan of their city. According to 
 President Brigham Young, its situation was indicated to 
 him in a vision by an angel, who, standing on a conical 
 hill, pointed to the locality where the new Temple 
 must be built ; and when he first entered the Salt Lake 
 basin, he looked for the angel-haunted cone, and dis- 
 covering a fresh stream rippling at its base, he straight- 
 way named it City Creek. Some say the angel was the 
 spirit of his predecessor Joseph Smith the apostle of 
 Mormonisra ; others, that as early a^ 1842 the latter 
 was favoured with dreams of these valleys and mountains, 
 lakes and rivers, and revealed them to his favourite dis- 
 ciples. At all events, on the exodus of the Mormons 
 from Nauvoo, they crossed the Rocky Mountains and 
 descended into this basin, to plant their new home in a 
 scene of the most picturesque and unusual beauty. 
 
 The city is finely situated in an angle of the Wahsatch 
 Mountains, and stretches up close to the foot of the hills 
 which lie north of it ; while the mountains on the east 
 are between two and three miles distant. Looking at the 
 Illustration, the snowy peaks of the Wahsatch range are 
 in the distance, on the left hand side, from twelve to 
 
 (41) 
 
 twenty-eight miles from the city. The highest moun- 
 tains reach an elevation of over 7000 feet above the level 
 of the valley, and between 11,000 and 12,000 feet above 
 the sea-level. 
 
 East Teniple Street in the centre of the Illustration, 
 is the principal business street in the city. Like all the 
 rest, it is 132 feet wide, with streams of water tiowing 
 down either side, keeping the shade-trees in lovely green 
 foliage during the scorching summer months. The shape 
 of the city is something like an L, the longer portion I'f 
 the letter Stretching east and west, the shorter north and 
 south. Its appearance is unique, and peculiar to itself. 
 The numerous orchards which abound through it, and 
 the thrifty growth of shade-trees which line the streets, 
 give it the air of an immense number of villas, small 
 cottages, and residences of every imaginable style of 
 architecture, buried in a mass of luxuriant foliage. 
 
 Laid out in square blocks of ten acres each, the wide 
 streets run at right angles to each other, following the 
 cardinal points of the compass. The city covers a space 
 of about nine square miles, and contains nearly 25,000 
 inhabitants. It has three hotels — the Salt Lake House, 
 Townsend House, and Revere House, with a number of 
 boaxding-houses and restaurants. 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER, 
 
 15 
 
 The streets are named in reference to their situation to 
 the Temple Block. Thus, Main Street, strictly speaking, 
 is East Temple Street; in its rear is First East Street 
 (State Road); then Second East Street; and so forth. 
 To Temple Block latitude and longitude also are generally 
 referred. It lies in lat 40° 45' 44" N., and long. 112° & 
 34" W., at an elevation of 4300 feet above the sea-level. 
 
 In the city and contiguous to it are a number of fac- 
 tories for the manufacture of woollen goods, wooden ware, 
 and furniture, with steam wood-working factories, a 
 paper-mill, large adobe-yards, brick-yards, &c., kc. 
 
 There are two daily, one semi-weekly, and three weekly 
 newspapers published. The dailies are the Deseret News, 
 Geo. Q. Cannon, editor; and the Salt Lake Telegraph, 
 M. A. Fuller, proprietor and editor. The former is the 
 official organ of the Mormon Church. Mr. Cannon is 
 also the proprietorand editor of a very popular illustrated 
 juvenile semi-monthly paper, the Juvenile Instructor; 
 and Messrs. Harrison and Grodbe publish weekly the 
 Mormon Tribune. 
 
 Of public buildings, the first to attract the attention of 
 travellers is 
 
 THE TEMPLE. 
 
 It is not yet completed ; and is the centre of the hopes 
 of the many thousand devotees who cling to4.he Mormon 
 faith throughout the world. 
 
 The Temple is not designed, as many suppose, for 
 
 (4U 
 
 public worship— this is the ofBce of the Tabernacle — but 
 it will be devoted to rites and ceremonies which are now 
 performed in other and temporary places; such as bap- 
 tisms, washings, anointings, and other rites required to 
 prepare the neophyte. The building now in course of 
 erection in Temple Block is 186h feet from east to west, 
 including. towers, and 99 feet from north to south. The 
 foundation is laid 16 feet from the surface of the earth, 
 and the walls resting upon them are 8 feet thick. Three 
 towers will stand at each end of the building, the centre 
 ones, east and west, rising higher than the others, and 
 to an altitude of 225 feet ; while a circular stairway in 
 each will wind around a column 4 feet in diameter, with 
 landings at the vai'ious sections of the building, from 
 which most excellent views of the city and surrounding 
 scenery — the valley, lake, and mountains — will be ob- 
 tained. 
 
 The basement story will contain a room, 57 feet long 
 by 35 wide, to be used for baptismal [turposes, which will 
 be flanked by two rooms on each side, 19 by 12 feet. 
 These, with two more rooms on either end, 38 i by 28 
 feet, and several wide passages, occupy the story. Four 
 flights of stone steps, 9| feet wide, will lead up to the 
 second story, the main room of which will be 120 feet 
 long by 80 wide, with the ceiling an elliptical arch. 
 Eight other ruoms ai'e on this story, 14 feet by 14. The 
 third story will have a similar arrangement of divisions. 
 The building will be decorated wth allegorical and mys- 
 
16 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 tical devices, making it a structure entirely unique. It 
 is being built of a light-coloured granite, obtained in Cot- 
 tonwood Canyon, sixteen miles south-east of the city. 
 
 THE TABERNACLE 
 
 is erected inside the Temple Block. The south wall of 
 this ten acre enclosure is seen through the shade-trees in 
 the foreground. The building itself, with its peculiar- 
 shaped dome-like roof, surmounted by a flag-staff, is 
 perhaps the largest hall in the world of a single span 
 roof, unsupported by pillar or column, used for purposes 
 of public meetings. It is 250 feet inside from east to 
 west, with a width of 150 feet from north to south. 
 Forty-six parallelogram pillars of red sand-stone, 9 feet 
 deep by 3 feet wide, form the base for the roof, which is 
 a strong lattice-work of timbers firmly bolted together 
 and self-supporting. The ceiling is 62 feet from the 
 floor, and is perforated with holes neatly stuccoed round, 
 which serve the double purpose of ventilation, and a 
 means by which scaffolding can be slung up to repair or 
 whiten when necessity arises for doing either. The west 
 end is occupied by a rostrum, or " stand," an elevated 
 platform, with three seats in the centre in front elevated 
 one a little over the other, for the Church dignitaries. 
 The space on either side of these seats is devoted to other 
 members of the priesthood, such as bishops, high priests, 
 seventies. 
 
 Lil) 
 
 Behind the seats of the authorities is the Grand Organ, 
 built by Mormon artificers, of material, except the metal 
 pipes, obtained in the Territory. This is the third largest 
 organ in the United States, and the largest yet built in 
 the Union ; the other two — one in Boston, and one in the 
 large Plymouth Church, Brooklyn — having been brought 
 from Europe. 
 
 The Mormon organ has two manuals, the great and 
 swell, both heavily filled. The pipes number about two 
 thousand. The following are its stops and pipes : — 
 
 Great Organ. — Principal, fifteenth, open diapason, 
 stoppeddiapason, mixture-three ranks,fluteharmonic,hohl 
 flute, fluteacheminee,dulciana,twelfth,trumpet,bourdon. 
 
 Swell Organ. — Claribella, principal, clariflute, stopped 
 flute, cremorne, hautboy, open diapason, stopped dia- 
 pason, mixture-two ranks, bassoon, bourdon, piccolo. 
 
 Pedal Organ.— Open bass, 16 feet; dulc bass, 16 feet ; 
 principal bass, 8 feet ; stopped bass, 16 feet ; great open 
 bass, 32 feet. 
 
 Mechanical Stops. — Great and swell, pedal and great, 
 pedal and swell, tremblant, bellows, signal. 
 
 The builder was Mr. Joseph Ridges, a Mormon arti- 
 ficer of English birth. 
 
 THE THEATRE, 
 
 on the corner of First South and First East Streets, is a 
 fine building, something in the Doric style of architec- 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 !■; 
 
 ture. la front are a couple of fluted columns, with the 
 treasurer's office on the west side of the portico. The 
 structure, which has a granite finish, is 172 feet in length, 
 with a width of 80 feet, and is inside 40 feet from floor 
 to ceiling. The stage is 62 feet deep, with proscenium 
 opening of 32 feet at the curtain. It has a parquette, 
 dress circle, second circle, and gallery, and is capable of 
 seating about 1600 persons. The interior is finished in 
 white and gold, and presents a very tasteful, cheerful 
 appearance. Its arrangements and appointments in 
 dressing-rooms, atelier, stage machinists' department, 
 property rooms, orchestra room, &c., are considered 
 superior to those of any other theatre on the continent. 
 
 THE CITY HALL, 
 
 situated on First South Street, between First and Second 
 East, is a very handsome building for the western coun- 
 try, and was erected of cut red sandstone at a cost of 
 $70,000. It is 60 feet square, and surmounted with a 
 clock-tower. The doors, windows, and panels, are 
 finished in oak-graining. The building contains offices 
 for the Mayor, Recorder, and City Treasurer; a Court- 
 Room where the Alderman's and Justices' Courts are 
 held; the City Attorney's office, the Territorial Library, 
 Council Chamber, Office of the Adjutant- General of the 
 Territorial Militia, and chambers in which the Terri- 
 torial Legislature meets. 
 
 (41i 
 
 The City Prison is in the rear, strongly built of sand- 
 stone, at a cost of §30,000. 
 
 The Old Tabernacle, south of the large one, in which 
 public worship is held during the winter, and which has 
 a seating capacity for 2500 persons ; the Council House, 
 occupied by the University of Deseret, on the corner of 
 South and East Temple Streets ; the Court House, 
 corner of Second West and Second South Streets, a large 
 handsome building, in which the Supreme Court, and 
 the United States and Territorial Courts for the Third 
 Judicial District are held ; the Social Hall and Seventies' 
 Hall, on First East Street ; the immense edifice of the 
 General Tithing Store, north-east corner of South and 
 East Temple Streets, seen as the " Deseret Store ; " with 
 the Assembly Rooms of the Thirteenth and Fourteenth 
 Wards, are the other principal public buildings in the city. 
 Every ward has its hall for public purposes, which is, in a 
 number of cases, also used as a school-room ; while, in other 
 wards, there is a public school-house beside the halls, and 
 private schools. 
 
 THE BENCH. 
 
 Our Illustration of the Bench, or elevated part of Salt 
 Lake City, gives a beautiful view of the mountains to the 
 north-east of the city, and lying contiguous to it. In the 
 foreground, to the right hand, is the gable end of the 
 residence of Mayor D. H. Wells, second counsellor to 
 President Young. One end of the verandah, which runs 
 
18 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 along the front of the house, fiiciiig South Temple Street, 
 is seen ; and the street, with its well-grown locust trees, 
 combining beauty and shade in the hot summer mouths, 
 ruus east towards the mouutaius. 
 
 PRESIDENT YOUNG S HOUSE. 
 
 The Lion House, so named from a carved figure of a 
 lion in front, with its triangular windows and full-length 
 verandah facing the west, is seen to the left; forming, 
 \>ith the Beehive House, also named from a carved bee- 
 hive iii frout, tlie residence of President Young. The two 
 are connected together with the owner's business otMces, 
 tiie General, or Tithing Office, being to the west of the 
 Private Office. 
 
 East of his residence, and reached through the Eagle 
 Gate, of which an illustration is presented, is President 
 Young's private school, the tower of which is seen in the 
 wood-cut to the right of the eagle with "outspread 
 wings ;" and still further east is the White House, Presi- 
 dent Y'oung's former residence. 
 
 Tlie gardens are laid out with great taste, and very 
 carefully cultivated. On the neighbouring hill-side a 
 vineyard has been planted, and thrives very vigorously. 
 Three kinds of grapes are grown : the California grape, 
 which is supposed to be the Madeira introduced into the 
 New World by the Roman Catholic monks ; the Catawba, 
 so called from a river of that name, celebrated by Long- 
 
 THE EAGLE GATE. 
 
 fellow ; and the Isabella, which is a native vai'iety. The 
 principal vegetables cultivated are the Irish and sweet 
 potato, squashes, pease, cabbages, beets, cauliflowers, 
 lettuce, broccoli, rhubarb, and celery ; the chief fruits, 
 apples, walnuts, quinces, apricots, chei'ries, plums, cur- 
 rants, raspberries, and gooseberries. 
 
 The "Bench," or elevated table-land, with the ancient 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 19 
 
 water-mark clo^e to the base of the mountains, has all 
 the evidences of erosion from the waters of the sea which 
 must have formerly filled the Great Basin. Close up to 
 the mountains' base, the ground has been surveyed, 
 blocks and streets marked off, and building is going on 
 as rapidly as the increasing population of the city re- 
 quires increased habitations. From this Bench a beauti- 
 ful view is obtained of tlie valley stretchin'j: away to the 
 soutli, the Wahsatch range to the east, and the Oquirrh 
 range to the west, with the entrance of the Jordan River 
 
 from Utah Valley, where the " spurs" of the two ranges 
 seemingly almost meet. 
 
 No visitor to Salt Lake, who has time to spare, should 
 leave without driving up to the Bench, and enjoying the 
 splendid panorama of mountain and valley which it re- 
 veals. If he ascend to Ensign Peak, north of the Arse- 
 nal, a still more extensive view will be obtained, reach- 
 ing south to Mount Nebo, at the southern end of Utah 
 Valley, and north to Promontory Point, at the northern 
 end of Great Salt Lake. 
 
 Ill.-PLACES TO VISIT. 
 
 The visitor to Salt Lake City can spend a few days 
 most i)leasantly and agreeably in visiting places of inter- 
 est in the neighbourhood, or within a reasonable distance. 
 First in order, as first in place, is 
 
 GREAT SALT LAKE, 
 
 the "Dead Sea of the West; " for, without a yisit to, 
 and a bathe in its saline waters, no traveller or tourist 
 can say he has "done" Utah, and visited one of the 
 greatest natural wonders of the globe ; for it is a wonder, 
 this remnant of a vast inland sea, with the ancient water- 
 
 (41) 
 
 marks still distinctly visible along the base of the moun- 
 tains, where the erosion has made as well-defined a line 
 of shore as the most enthusiastic geologist could desire. 
 This Mare Mortuum, slumbering peacefully in the shadow 
 of the vast mountain ranges on either side ; its islands 
 towering almost to the snow-line ; its waters containing 
 from fifteen to twenty-six per cent, of saline matter, 
 according as they are taken from near the rivers' mouths 
 or the middle of the lake ; its shores, covered in some 
 places with salt so plentifully, that it can be shovelled up 
 like sand ; its only inhabitants, a species of marine in- 
 sect peculiar to itself; and its beauties and .surrounding 
 
20 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE 'WAY THITHER. 
 
 scenery unlike any otlier on 
 the continent — perhaps on 
 the globe ;— this lake, which 
 was the wonder of trappers 
 and hunters, and the terror 
 of the wild Indian tribes of 
 the Gi'eat Basin for many 
 years beforecivilization was 
 |)lanted on its shores, can- 
 not be passed without a 
 visit. It can be most easily 
 reached from Salt Lake City 
 by the Utah Central Rail- 
 road, leaving the train at 
 Bountiful ; this station 
 being within probably a 
 couple of miles of a nice 
 beach for bathing. The 
 lake is approached nearer 
 than this a little further 
 north, by the same line; 
 but the beach is not so 
 nice, nor the facilities for 
 bathing so good. As the 
 excellence of this part of 
 the shore is only beginning 
 to be recognized, there is 
 little doubt that in a very 
 
 (41) 
 
 short time boating facilities 
 w ill be offered to tourists for 
 sliort excursions on the 
 water. 
 
 The once favourite resort 
 of visitors to Salt Lake was 
 Black Rock, a solitary and 
 massive heap of flint con- 
 glomerate, of which an en- 
 graving is given, situated 
 about 20 miles from Salt 
 Lake City. All through 
 tiie summer months joyous 
 parties in private carriages, 
 h i red con veyances, waggons, 
 omnibuses, buggies, and 
 other vehicles, would every 
 week visitBlack Rock, have 
 ]iicnics, bathe in the lake, 
 row over the waters, and 
 enjoy the scene and the 
 scenery with an exuberance 
 of pleasure which the purity 
 and rarity of the atmo- 
 sphere tended to heighten. 
 These parties still continue, 
 though they are not now so 
 11 umer^us as formerly ; an d 
 
 THE BLACK ROCK, 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 21 
 
 the traveller who lias leisure vvill be well repaid for the 
 trip, as, among other attractions, it will take him past 
 a number of those ancient " Indian mounds," concerning 
 which speculation has been busy. 
 
 In geologic ages it is evident that an iidand sea occupied 
 the vast basin between the eastern range of the Sierra Madre 
 and the western "ridges of Goose Creek and Humboldt 
 River. It may be computed at 500 miles from north to 
 south, and at 350 to 500 from east to west, with a total area 
 of 150,000 square miles. Owing to the gradual elevation of 
 the land the waters have sunk, at successive stages, into the 
 lowest paits of the basin. In many places thirteen of these 
 sta:,'es, " benches," or terraces may be distinctly traced. 
 
 Returning to the city, next the " big toe of the Wah- 
 satcb," or 
 
 EJfSIGN PEAK> 
 
 can be climbed. It lies north xif East Temple Street, 
 and is probably a couple of miles to the summit from 
 Temple Block ; but once on it, the view is magnificent. 
 Away to tiie north is spread a panorama of mountain, 
 lake, and valley, stretching nearly a hundred miles. To 
 the west, the towering peaks whicii rise between Utah 
 and Nevada. To the .south, the valley south of the city, 
 hemmed in and bounded by the Wahsatch and Oquirrh 
 ranges ; the canyons, gloomy-looking in the rich Hood of 
 sunlight, looking like deep gashes in the bosom of the 
 giant mountains. At the southern end of the valley the 
 
 (41) 
 
 approaching heiglits shut out a clear view of Utah Valley 
 and its lovely lake; but the gray head of Mount Nebo 
 rises boldly and distinctly outlined over 80 miles from 
 w-here the gazer stands. At his feet is the city, buried in 
 green foliage, cozy dwellings peeping out from orchards 
 and shade-trees, with a wealth of floral loveliness shed- 
 ding its fragrance on the ambient atmosphere. 
 
 Descending from "jEnsign Peak" to the city, and taking 
 the Territorial Road north, the visitor soon reaches the 
 
 WARM AND HOT SPRINGS, 
 
 the former fupplying comfortable bath-houses, private 
 and plunge ; and the latter, gushing out of a rock at the 
 base of the mountain. 
 
 The Hot Springs are some two miles north of the 
 Warm Springs, and in their narrow basin throw off a 
 heavy and sulphurous odour, far from pleasant to some 
 sensitive olfactories ; yet various medicinal virtues are 
 ascribed to their waters. Among others, they are said 
 to be a wonderful restorative for and preventive against 
 baldness. Here we may introduce an anecdote, illus- 
 trative of the hotness of the springs, which is too good 
 to be passed over. In the early days of Mormonisra in 
 Utah, and soon after the "gold-fever" in California had 
 commenced to draw thousands across the continent, a 
 train of waggons, destined for the golden land, had 
 arrived at Salt Lake City, and camped there to rest and re- 
 
22 
 
 SALT LAKK CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 cruit. One of the teamsters, who had faith in the virtue 
 of occasional ablutions, having heard of the Warm Spring 
 in which it was alleged the Mormons bathed, expecting its 
 waters to preserve them in perennial youth, determined 
 to enjoy the luxury. By mistake, he reached the Hot 
 Springs instead, and feeling the water, found it hotter 
 than lie had expected. However, nothing daunted, he 
 " pealed off," and plunged into the bubbling basin, with 
 an assertion that he could bathe where any Mormon could. 
 The plunge was followed by a yell shrill as an initiatory 
 war-whoop, and the over-venturesome teamster dashed 
 out of,the water, in colour like a boiled lobster, and with 
 his epidermis in a condition for easy flaying. 
 
 An analysis of the springs was made in 1849 by Dr. 
 Charles T. Jackson of Boston ; his report is as follows : — 
 
 " Three fluid ounces of the water, on evaporation to 
 entire dryness in a platina capsule, gave S.25 grains of 
 solid, dry saline matter. 
 
 Carbonate of Lime and Magnesia 0.240 — 1280 
 
 Peroxide qf Iron 0. 040 — 0208 
 
 Lime ,..0.545 — 2.907 
 
 Chlorine 3.454—18.421 
 
 Soda 2.877—15.344 
 
 Magnesia 0.370 — 2.073 
 
 Sulphuric Acid 0.703— 3.748 
 
 S.229 43.ySl 
 
 Ul) 
 
 " It is slightly charged with hydruaulpnurio acid gas, 
 and with carbolic acid gas, and is a pleasant, saline, 
 mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to 
 saline sulphur springs." 
 
 The temperature of the Warm Spi^ings is laid down at 
 102 ¥., that of the Hot Springs is considerably higher. 
 
 Though these are not yet so popular as the Spas of 
 Germany or the Waters of England, we may reasonably 
 expect that in the course of a few years they will be the 
 resort of thousands of health-seekers. 
 
 Turning south of the city, and driving in a south- 
 easterly direction, 13 miles bring the visitor to Cotton- 
 wood Canyon, and 14 miles up this gorge in the Wahsatch 
 will find him at the lovely little 
 
 COTTONWOOD LAKE, 
 
 a sheet of water nestling among the great peaks, whose 
 summits are covered with " eternal snow," and lying at 
 an altitude of about 10,000 feet. The scenery up the 
 canyon, and that around the little lake, is grand and im- 
 posing, and attractively beautiful. Luxuriant vegetation 
 crowns the canyon sides, except where the abrupt rocks 
 show their bald sides. 
 
 The windings of the canyon ; the whirring of the saw- 
 mills, ripping the liuge logs cut from the mountains' 
 sides into marketable lumber ; the wild and picturesque 
 appearance of peak, and swell, and mountain gully; the 
 
S^LT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 23 
 
 little lake itself, with the mountains dipping to the 
 water's edge, and the border of greensward surrounding 
 it, cannot fitly be described in words. The lake referred 
 to is the principal one of a series of lakelets which re- 
 pose in these raountain fastnesses, and ai-e fed from the 
 melting snows ; as many as thirteen having been observed 
 from the highest peaks embosomed in the surrounding 
 scenery. 
 
 An exploration of 
 
 THE CANTONS 
 
 in the Wahsatch and Oquirrh ranges, with their clear 
 and sparkling streams, which abound in trout, and afford 
 excellent angling, will well repay the trouble, and give 
 health and gratification to the tourist. 
 South, of Salt Lake Valley lies 
 
 UTAH VALLET AND LAKE, 
 
 the latter a sheet of fresh water, 30 miles in extreme 
 length by 15 in breadth. A number of towns and settle- 
 ments border on the lake, each built on a mountain 
 stream, which gives water for irrigation. 
 
 The most important place in this valley is Provo, the 
 county town, built on the Provo, or Timpanogos River, 
 which flows down a canyon bearing its name. About six 
 miles up the canyon is a beautiful cataract, known as the 
 
 (41) 
 
 '• Cascades ; " and all the streams afford a plentiful 
 supply of most delicious trout. 
 
 SWEET WATER RIVER. 
 
 The Sweet Water River is a tributary of the Platte, 
 which flows through a valley of the most romantic char- 
 acter. Its name is a translation from the Indian Pina 
 Pa, and in a metaphorical sense is peculiarly applicable, 
 the scenery in many parts being as soft and sylvan as 
 any that ever enriched a poet's Arcadia. In its calmer 
 course, says Captain Burton, the Sweet Water is a per- 
 fect Naiad of the mountains; but afterwards it becomes 
 an Undine, hurried by that terrible Destiny, to which 
 Jove himself must bend his omniscient head, into the 
 grisly marital embrace of the gloomy old Platte. Passing 
 pleasant is the merry prattle with which she answers the 
 whisperings of those fickle flatterers, the .Winds, before 
 that wedding-day when silence shall become her doom. 
 There is a something in the Sweet Water which appeals 
 to the feelings of rugged men ; even the drivers and 
 station-keepers speak of "her" with a bearish affec- 
 tion. 
 
 The grandest feature of the valley is the Devil's Gate, 
 a breach in the barrier of the Rocky Mountains, which 
 might well serve as the portal to some enchanted region. 
 The height of the huge dark perpendicular clifts on either 
 hand varies from 400\o 500 feet ; the space between them 
 
24 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 is nowhere more than 105 
 feet, in many is scarcely 40 
 feet wide; the total length 
 of the gap is 650 to 700 feet. 
 The walls consist of a gray 
 granite traversed by trap 
 dykes ; and the rock in which 
 the river has excavated her 
 strange and difficult channel 
 runs right through the ex- 
 treme southern shoulder of 
 a ridge appropriately enough 
 named the " Rattlesnake 
 Hills." 
 
 Through the profound fis- 
 sure sweeps and plunges and 
 splaslies the swift stream, 
 eddying round rocky points, 
 and tumbling over massy 
 boulders, wakening up tbe 
 neighbouring echoes with her 
 unceasing song, which varies 
 from sounds like those of 
 merry laughter to a dirge as 
 sad and solemn as was ever 
 breathed over a hero's grave. 
 The spectacle is ever fresh 
 and ever new, and would 
 
 THE devil's gate, WEEER OAJfON. 
 
 delight the artist and the 
 poet. 
 
 SNAKE OR LEWIS RIVER. 
 
 The Snake River Valley 
 lies to the north of the Great 
 Salt Lake, and mostly out 
 of the. track of travellers. 
 There are pictures on its 
 banks and in its neighbour- 
 hood, however, which might 
 inspire a great artist with 
 immortal ideas. One of the 
 brightest of 'these is pre- 
 sented at the point where the 
 Unknown River, as it is 
 mysteriously called, suddenly 
 leaps into the light of day 
 from the rocky walls which 
 enclose the waters of the 
 Snake River, pouring down 
 the craggy descent in a double 
 cascade, which sparkles in 
 the sun with rainbow hues 
 and fills the air with the 
 echoes of its tumultuous 
 course. .This, assuredly, is 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 25 
 
 ne of the greatest natural curiosities in the Western 
 V'orld ; and the whole scene, with its lofty battlemented 
 jountains and its foaming waters, its wreathing clouds 
 f mist, and its rich garniture of moss, and ferns, and 
 rasses, is well calculated to impress the imagination and 
 nd a lasting place among the treasures of memory. 
 Snake River, also called Lewis' Fork, forms the 
 
 southern branch of the Columbia, and is named after the 
 Indian tribe whose ancient territory it traverses. Its 
 course is broken up by numerous falls and rapids, which 
 have been described by Fremont with much graphic 
 force. It joins the northern branch of the Columbia in 
 lat. 46° 5' N., and long. 118° 55' W., and thence the 
 united stream flows onward to the Pacific Oceau. 
 
 "■*. 
 
 (41) 
 
 A SNAKE INDIAN AND HIS SQUAW. 
 
26 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 IV.-FROM OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 [By the Central Pacific Railroad.] 
 
 Travellers from San Francisco to Salt Lake City and 
 Omaha have only to reverse the route laid down in the 
 following pages to render them available; beginning, 
 that is, where we leave off. 
 
 The distance from Ogden to Sacramento is 763 miles ; 
 from Sacramento to San Francisco, 138 miles. 
 
 The following Table shows the railway stations, and 
 thefr elevation above the level of the Pacific: — 
 
 SALT LAKE DIVISION. 
 
 Ogden 4332 feet. 
 
 Corinne 4274 
 
 Promontory .. . . 4908 
 
 Monument 4290 
 
 Kelton 4500 
 
 Mathie 4821 
 
 Terrace 4450 feet. 
 
 Lucia 4400 
 
 Tecoona 4600 
 
 Montello 4800 
 
 Loray 1500 
 
 Toano 5904 
 
 HUMBOLDT DIVISION. 
 
 Pequop 0280 feet. 
 
 Independence . . C115 
 
 AVells 5650 
 
 Tulasco 5418 
 
 Halleck 5220 
 
 (41J 
 
 Osino 5100 feet. 
 
 Elko 5030 
 
 Molem 5000 
 
 C'arlin 4930 
 
 Be-o-wa-we .. ..4717 
 
 HUMBOLDT DIVISION — Continued. 
 
 Shoshone 4665 feet. 
 
 Argenta 4575 
 
 Bat tleMoun tain 4534 
 
 TRUCKEE 
 
 Easpberry 4354 feet. 
 
 Mill City 4256 
 
 Humboldt 4262 
 
 Eye Patch 4285 
 
 Oreana 4200 
 
 Lovelock's 4100 
 
 Brown's 3955 
 
 White Plains. ..3921 
 
 Stone House . . .4449 feet 
 
 Golconda 4419 
 
 Winnemucca. . . 4355 
 
 DIVISION. 
 
 Hot Springs 4098 feet 
 
 Wadsworth .... 4104 
 
 Clark's 4290 
 
 Camp 37 4400 
 
 Reno 4525 
 
 Verdi 49l5 
 
 Boca 5560 
 
 Truckee 5860 
 
 SACRAMENTO DIVISION. 
 
 Summit 7042 feet. 
 
 Cisco 5911 
 
 Emigrant Gap. 5300 
 Blue Canyon . . . 4700 
 
 Alta 3625 
 
 Dutch Flat 3425 
 
 Gold Run 3245 
 
 Colfax 3448 feei 
 
 Auburn 1385 
 
 Newcastle 920 
 
 Rocklin .'. 269 
 
 Junction 189 
 
 Arcade 76 
 
 Sacramento .... 56 
 
WESTERN DIVISION. 
 
 Gait 73 feet. 
 
 Stockton 46 
 
 Lathrop <.. 23 
 
 Bantas 48 
 
 Ellis 73 
 
 Livermore 520 
 
 Pleasuntor 551 feet. 
 
 Nelis 148 
 
 San Jose 114 
 
 Alameda 
 
 Oakland 
 
 San Francisco.. 
 
 On leaving Of,'cIen station, we still keep to the west- 
 aid, and skirt the northern boundary of the Great Salt 
 ake. 
 
 A few hours later, we cross the Humboldt Mountains, 
 he}' are between 10,000 and 12,000 feet in heiglit; and, 
 ke the sister chain of the Rocky, their crests and flanks 
 re thickly clothed with snow. 
 
 Next our rapid descent brings us to the Humboldt 
 river, and vve follow its course for 340 miles. The river- 
 illey is about 700 feet in width ; and on each side of it 
 ses abruptly a wall of precipitous mountains, 1000 to 
 500 feet in height. 
 
 Crossing the Elko River, the train stops for half-an- 
 Dur at Elko (5030 feet above the sea). At this point — 
 id, indeed, all along the line — the traveller often obtains 
 impses of what may be called the aboriginal life of 
 le continent. A traveller tells us that on one occa- 
 on he met there a large number of Indians of tiie 
 r alia- Walla tribe. " Every squaw," he says, " had her 
 
 (41) 
 
 face painted a bright crimson, striped with yellow." The 
 ladies by whom he was accompanied "gave them small 
 pieces of blue and red ribbon, which greatly delighted 
 them. Tying the ribbon to the beads around their 
 necks, they go 'back to the Pullman commissary (that 
 is, refreshment) car on our hotel train. Having just 
 finished breakfast," says our traveller, " I went into 
 the cooking apartment, and got a pail full of scraps. A 
 rush was made for the pail; but pressing them from it, 
 I distributed its contents as equitably as possible amongst 
 them. Some got three or four trout, others eggs, ham, 
 beef-steak, rolls, corn-bread, &c., taking particular pains 
 to give to every squaw who had a pappoose strapped to 
 her back a double portion." 
 
 Is it necessary to describe a pappoose ? Perhaps it 
 may be for the convenience of some of our readers. 
 
 Well, then : a pappoose is an Indian baby, who is 
 strapped on a board about 4 5 to 5 feet in length ; leather 
 and skin of animals are nailed to it, making it look like 
 a large ugly slipper. Into this slipper-like apparatus is 
 inserted the baby, and strings are folded round and round 
 the slipper and its inmate, from the chin to the foot; the 
 hands are even tied down, and of the living mummy you 
 see nothing but the head. This head is protected from 
 the sun by a little roof of wicker-work, to which are fas- 
 tened rags of various colours, some yellow feathers, and a 
 few beads. The entire apparatus is attached to the head of 
 the mother by a leather strap, coming round her forehead. 
 
28 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER, 
 
 Elko is the base of supplies for the White Pine Mines, 
 and is the largest town iu Nevada; but it does not bear 
 a very savoury reputatiou as a peaceful and law-abiding 
 place. 
 
 Passing Be-o-wa-we, Shoshone, and Argenta — these 
 little settlements bear so strong a family resemblance that 
 it is unnecessary to describe them — we reach Battle 
 Mountain (4534 feet above the sea), so called from the 
 desperate engagement which here took place between the 
 settlers and the Indians. The latter had one hundred 
 and .eleven killed. From this point the supplies for 
 Austin and the silver-mining region of Nevada are 
 conveyed across the mountain ; the silver ore re- 
 turning in waggons, drawn by ten, twelve, and sixteen 
 oxen. 
 
 Thirty miles to the north, at the base of Battle Moun- 
 tain, the Humboldt River takes its great turn towards 
 the Pacific; and we now pass its "Big Bend." The 
 white alkali deposits here cover the plain like snow, re- 
 lieved only by patches of sage- bush. At various points 
 along the valley rise steaming columns of vapour from the 
 hot springs. At the head of the valley is Mud Lake, 
 50 miles long by 20 wide; its further extremity indicated 
 by the precipitous and rugged headland of Black Eock, 
 1800 feet iu height. 
 
 From Black Mountain to Humboldt we descend 
 672 feet. The descent is continued as far as White 
 
 Plains (3921 feet). At Hot Springs we have risen 177 
 feet; and at Wadsworth we are beginning in earnest the 
 ascent of the Sierra Nevada (or Snowy Range). 
 
 At Truckee (5866 feet) we obtain a beautiful view of 
 this rugged, wild, picturesque, and broken, saw-toothed 
 chain. Their lofty tops are everywhere covered with 
 snow, whose dazzling, unpolluted whiteness . contrasts 
 most vividly with the clear intense blue of the sky, which 
 they seem to touch. At a distance, their emerald sides 
 seem clothed with wheat and other cereals; but a nearer 
 inspection shows us that instead of tiny stalks of wheat 
 or gi-ass, they are studded with giant pines of at least a 
 century old. ^ 
 
 The valleys of the Nevada are beautiful beyond descrip- 
 tion, and each is traversed by a musical stream. 
 
 " Wonders are on every side. The deep, deep gorge, 
 at whose bottom, 2000 feet below us, runs a stream 
 several hundred feet in width, seems no larger than a tiny 
 mill-race. Now we skirt the rugged precipitous edge of 
 a mountain, the railway track cut into its almost perpen- 
 dicular sides. The Central Pacific Company have built 
 enormous snow-sheds on the flank of the mountains 
 where the railroad runs. These protections from head- 
 long falls of snow are not frail structures, with a few 
 hemlock or spruce boards nailed to them, but very heavy, 
 massive, solid timbers, bolted together; the uprights 
 being of pine, 16 and 2() inches in diameter. We passed 
 one of these snow-houses 27 miles long ! Many are from 
 
SALT LAKE CiTY, AND THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 29 
 
 iilf a mile to three miles in length ; and taken together, 
 leir aggregate length cannot be less than 50 miles." 
 
 A few miles from Truckee we see Donner Lake, a beau- 
 
 ful woodland basin, which, like its neighbour, Lake 
 
 ahoe, is, undoubtedly, the centre of an extinct volcano. 
 
 Summit Station marks the highest point of our ascent; 
 
 is 7042 feet above the level of the Pacific. The rail- 
 
 lad cut round the mountain is here called Cape Horn. 
 
 Between Summit and Cisco we achieve a descent of 
 
 131 feet; another incline of 611 feet brings us to Emi- 
 
 rant Gap. Thence we run past Blue Canj'on, a fair 
 
 imantic valley, to Alta, and by Dutch Flat and Gold 
 
 un to Colfax, a rising town, named after the present 
 
 ice-President of the United States (1871), and situated 
 
 II a branch of the Leather River, which is itself a branch 
 
 f the Sacramento. 
 
 A visit may be paid to the Dutch Flat Gold Mines, 
 hich are worked by the "hydraulic system " of mining ; 
 le water being brought from a great height in the neigh- 
 ouring mountain. The nozzle of the pipe is turned to the 
 lountain side, the force cf the water cutting great slices 
 lit of it, and bringing down tons of rock and earth. The 
 irth is then washed, and the precious metal being 
 eavier than the particles of mud, sinks to the bottom, 
 hile the mud is carried off by the water. 
 Crossing the American River a few miles above Sacra- 
 lento, we soon reach the capital of the Golden State. 
 (411 
 
 Sacramento is well built, well laid out, and well situ- 
 ated. All around it cluster elegant villas, with vineyards 
 and blooming gardens. It is builc on the east bank of 
 the Sacramento River, 125 miles from the sea, in lat. 
 38° 33' N., and long. 121° 20' W. The streets intersect 
 each other at right angles on a level plain, about 50 feet 
 above the sea. It was first settled by Captain Sutter, a 
 Swiss, in 1839, who built a small fort. The first house 
 was built in 1849. Its population now exceeds 17,000. 
 
 Through a vine-clad valley we dash onward to the 
 Livermore Canyon— a cutting, 1000 feet deep, which 
 carries us through the littoral range of mountains. 
 
 Shortly afterwards we traverse Oakland, on the east 
 side of the beautiful Bay of San Francisco, and in five 
 minutes more our eyes gaze with a " wild surprise," like 
 the emotion felt by its European discoverer, Nunez de 
 Balboa, on the shining expanse of the vast Pacific. And 
 thus have the iron horse and the iron road carried us 
 across the great American Continent, from its eastern to 
 its western coast. 
 
 Of San Francisco our limits do not permit us to say 
 much. Unquestionably it is destined to become one of 
 the world's greatest commercial dep6ts. It is situated 
 on the west shore of the San Francisco Bay, in lat. 37° 
 46' N., and long. 122° 23' W. It contains about 12,500 
 houses, nearly 30 churches, elegant public buildings, 
 theatres, hospitals, and asylums; and possesses a deep 
 and spacious harbour. The small decaying Spanish 
 
30 
 
 SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAT THITHER. 
 
 town, planted about 1776, was taken by the Americans 
 in 1846. In 1847 it had a population of 450. Then 
 came the gold discovery, and a sudden development of 
 
 commerce, which lias known no check ; — its population 
 now exceeds 110,000, It is thus that cities grow in the 
 Far West ! 
 
 V.-UTAH TERRITORY. 
 
 The Territory, of which Salt Lake City is the capital, 
 extends from the 37th to the 42nd parallel of north 
 latitude, and from the 109th to the 114th degree of 
 •west longitude, occupying an area of about 65,000 square 
 miles. Much of it is wild and mountainous, but it is 
 interspersed with productive valleys, of which nearly 
 150,000 acres are under cultivation. The Mormon 
 pioneers, numbering 143 men, and 4 women, made their 
 entrance into the valley on the 24th July 1847, under 
 the leadership of their president, Brigham Young. A 
 settlement was immediately formed, a city laid out with 
 a view to future growth and greatness, and the clear- 
 sightedness of the plan upon which it was so laid out is 
 now shown in the uniformity and regularity of its streets, 
 unlike most new Western towns and cities, which usually, 
 after a few years' increase, are benefited by fires that 
 sweep away narrow, irregular, and unsightly streets, and 
 make room for wider, better-proportioned, and better- 
 built thoroughfares. 
 
 The only inhabitants of the valley when it was colo- 
 
 (41) 
 
 nized by the Mormons were a few tribes of Indians, 
 perhaps the most degraded on the continent. These 
 were mostly different families of the Dtes, from whom 
 the Territory takes its name ; and as one great source of 
 their subsistence was digging roots of different kinds, they 
 were called " Digger Indians," to distinguish them froni 
 tribes that lived by the more exciting and manlier occupa- 
 tion of hunting. A few rabbits furnished them with 
 skins to protect them against the inclement winters; and 
 an occasional buffalo robe could be found among them, 
 obtained from the Snakes, or other neigiibouring tribes. 
 Roots, rabbits, and fish formed their food ; their habita- 
 tions were, and are, principally formed by weaving 
 willow-branches into a shape something like a gipsy- 
 tent, and are called "wick-e-ups; " though a few chiefs 
 and others have "lodges," made of buck-skins neatly 
 sewed together, and extended on poles meeting at the 
 top, and spread out to the width of the skins at the 
 bottom ; the smoke from the lodge-fire es^apiug by the 
 opening at the top of the poles. 
 
SALT LAKE CITY, AND THE WAY THITHER, 
 
 31 
 
 A GROUP OF UTE SQUAWS?. 
 
 The condition of the Indians is much improved since 
 eir intercourse with the Mormons, as in several places 
 ey have been taught to cultivate land, and grow corn, 
 leat, and potatoes. Others hang around the settle- 
 2nts, and almost live by begging from the whites, 
 ough the squaws will chop firewood, and do other kinds 
 work, for which they receive pay in bread, meat, 
 ur, and vegetables ; and their spouses, euphoniously, 
 it most erroneously, called " braves," can lounge in the 
 t sun, smoke begged tobacco, and live on these pro- 
 icts of feminine toil with the greatest nonchalance 
 laginable. 
 
 (41) 
 
 The number of Indians in the Territory has been 
 estimated at 5000 ; the settled population will probably 
 reach 150,000. 
 
 The vast change which has occurred since the time 
 when these degraded savages held undisijuted sway over 
 the country could be best understood by a visit to some 
 of the vast sage plains which lie dreai-y and monotonous 
 between the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains and the 
 Great Basin. 
 
 Twenty-two years ago Utah was a wilderness; to-day 
 it is the home of thrift, industry, and prosperity, its 
 land teeming with abundance, its people enjoying the 
 products of their labour, which supply them abundantly 
 with the comforts, and many of the luxuries of life. 
 Thriving towns and settlements extend a distance of 
 about 500 miles from Idaho Territory on the north to 
 Arizona Territory on the south. Schools and meeting- 
 houses are foulid in almost every settlement, propor- 
 tionate to the inhabitants ; there being some 220 schools, 
 with about 14,000 pupils. A telegraph line ex- 
 tends nearly the entire length of the Territory ; a rail- 
 road 36 miles in length connects Salt Lake City with 
 the great Pacific Kailway, and it is designed to carry 
 this line south through the Territory. Canals for irri- 
 gatory purposes are numerous, and have been con- 
 structed at great expense and labour ; and the evidences 
 of substantial and permanent prosperity are everywhere 
 apparent. 
 
/ 
 
SALT LAKE HOTEL-WAHSATCH MOUNTAINS IN THE DISTANCE 
 
'7^ 
 
 MAIN STREET-SALT LAKE CITY 
 
* 
 
 _^i." 
 
 ^< 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 y* 
 
 J 
 
 1..'^ 
 
 / 
 
THE TABERNACLE-SALT LAKE CITY 
 

 AJLWMJW^" 
 
 THE THEATRE-SALT LAKE CITY 
 
CITY HALL-SALT LAKE CITY. 
 
Tv 
 
 / 
 
 > 
 
 u 
 
BENCH PART OF SALT LAKE CITY (FROM COUNCIL HOUSE, EAST TEMPLE STREET) 
 1. Residence of Pres. B. Young. 2. Camp Douglas. 3. Residence of D. H. Wells. 
 
. A, 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
TOWNSENQ HOUSE-SALT LAKE CITY 
 
» • «■■ -'-r-" 
 
 fW 
 
 TITHING STORE-SALT LAKE CITY 
 

 ^'^r9f-^^ -.,■'' 
 
 THE WAHSATCH MOUNTAIN RANGE, A;! 
 I. Camp Douglas. 2. Emigration Canon. 3. Parley's Canon. 4. Mill Creek Canon. S- Twin Peal 
 
■•#- %'"^V%;\^^ 
 
 
 ALT LAKE CITY-FROM ENSIGN PEAK 
 
 7. Lone Peak— 11500 feet above the sea. 8. Little Cottonwood Canon, where the rich silver mines are. 
 

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