-IP / MADAM WALKER'S CHAMPION FITTER, A SELF - INSTRUCTOR IN THE SCIENCE OF CUTTING AND FITTING ALL THE GARMENTS WORN BY LADIES, GENTLEMEN AND CHILDREN. MRS. H. M. WALKER, Inventor W. A. WORK, Proprietor. CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. MADAM WALKER'S CHAMPION FITTER, A SELF - INSTRUCTOR IN THE SCIENCE OF CUTTING AND FITTING ALL THE GARMENTS WORN BY LADIES, .$- GENTLEMEN AND CHILDREN. /' MRS. H. M. WALKER, Inventor. W. A. WORK, Proprietor. $r «op CI IICAGO, ILLINOIS. i> \ ( A V V COPYRIGHTED BY MRS. H. M. WALKER, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. GRBRTING. It has been my aim in the production of this System to present a practical work, entering into detail where necessary,, and avoiding all superfluous theory. In my opinion proportion and measure are the prime requisites, to act, not singly and independent, but in perfect harmony with each other, constructing a proportionate draft by the measure. Correctly proportionate garments, perfect in shape, hand- some in outline, intended to fit only perfect forms, are regard- ed, on general principles, to give better satisfaction and more grace in outline on an ill-shaped form. " Actual Measure " may lead one to sacrifice to a great extent the proportionate appearance. It is a self-evident fact, even with strictly actual measure, we do not always produce a perfect result, one that cannot be improved by trying on. Experience establishes the fact that the proportionate size of a figure measuring, say 35 breast, is invariably found in rela- tive ratio. The figure is governed by a law of proportion, the invari- able sequence of a certain size. Then it is equally true that most all sizes will correspond with the basis of measurement, namely, the breast or bust. Accepting, therefore, this prin- ciple as the preferable one, we are able to enunciate the funda- mental theory of the modern system, which is that the propor- tional build and measure shall be used combined, and that in order to carry out most effectually this principle of combi- nation, we adopt the measures as the most correct means to get a proportional construction. MADAM WALKER'S GENERAL REMARKS. This system consists of twenty-five graduated scales, a curved rule, and a book of diagrams of all the new and stylish garments worn by ladies, gentlemen, and children. To draft any pattern, we select scale corresponding with the breast or bust measure for upper garments ; for lower garments use hip measure. We turn to pattern we wish to draft, and using scale selected, simply copy diagram, getting lengths by actual meas- ure. We then shape the garment with our new curved rule, which, being lettered and having a spear to correspond with letters and spear, on diagram, requires no tiresome lessons or valuable time to learn to use it. Our two main objects were, first, to produce an accurate system ; second, to simplify it in order that all minds would be able to grasp it without any tedious lessons. CHAMPION FITTER. DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES IN THE LADIES' DEPARTMENT. First — Take the bust measure ; stand in front of the per- son, pass the tape line under the arms over the very largest part of the bust, and over the shoulder blades snug, but not tight. Second — Length of back from neck to waist, as low as can be worn. Third — Length of waist in front. Fourth — Waist measure tight. Fifth — Length of sleeve is taken on the inside, from arm- size to elbow, with arm straight, and then the natural length of sleeve at wrist. r MADAM WALKER'S DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE BASQUE. Select scale corresponding with breast or bust measure — say 35 — and draft entire pattern by it. Draw a base line, and then draw a line forming a right-angle w T ith base line, as per line No. I, in diagram. Open book at basque pattern and copy, beginning with back ; place scale on base line, with the first graduate on line No. I, and mark at y 2 — 7 — I2J^ — 15^ ; get length of back, which is 16 inches from point L / 2 , mark drop 8 inches below for hip-line ; draft straight lines from all points except y 2 , that being a curve; locate width of garment by placing your scale on 1st line and even with base line ; mark at 2,% 2d line, 12^ 3d line, I2j{ 4th line, 14^ 5th line, ij^, 5, io^i, and last line 3-7-13. Connect points by placing letter and spear on curved rule to correspond with letter and spear on diagram ; all unmarked lines are straight. For Front, draft base line and straight line, and mark at 3, 7, 16, 17^, draw straight lines according to diagram, and establish width as you did on back. Locate waist line by measuring from 7 down, giving exact measure of front, drop 8 inches below for hip line ; make under-arm seam correspond with front seam inside form; locate width of waist and hip line ; next, height of darts, first, 5 inches; second, 5^ inches; draw lines like diagram. No seams allowed. Sew on lines, and allow seams. Prove up waist line by waist measure, making any necessary changes in under-arm dart. SLEEVE. Draft base line, and line No. 1, locate points 3, 5^, 10^ ; draft lines, and locate width, establish length, measure down CHAMPION FITTER. 7 base line from 10^ to length of elbow and wrist ; draft lines and locate points for elbow and wrist ; connect points accord- ing to diagram. No seams allowed. A cloak, polonaise, or princess can be cut from either of the basque patterns, by simply extending pattern below hip line to length desired. For cloaks take scale two sizes larger than bust measure. For further information, Address, Mrs. H. M. Walker, Chicago. AGENTS WANTED. We want ladies and gentlemen to sell the Champion Fitter. We give splendid chances to make money fast and easy. Call or address, W. A. WORK, Proprietor, -Chicago, 111. MADAM WALKER'S 10^ First Line 3% BACK OF BASQUE. — Select Scale corresponding' with bust measure. Get length by actual measure from Point %. SLEEVE. — Use same scale. Get length from point \o)& to elbow, and then to wrist; establish width and connect points. CHAMPION FITTER. gSSSf iTft to^-e ^TafsTbVwS ™eas„re, and make any necessary change . tront seam in siuc j.uw.«, ^ -x- , under arm dart. No hem or seams allowed 10 MADAM WALKER'S FRENCH BASQUE. Use breast or bust measure, and draft according to directions for plain basque. CHAMPION FITTER. 11 PLAIN OR GATHERED WAIST. Lay off by scale corresponding with bust measure, and get length by actual measure. 12 MADAM WALKER'S /13\\ ^ 18 6^-^_ j*l