TARR AND McMURRY^GEOGRAPHlES SUPPLEMENTARY VOLUME ARIZONA BY F. M. IRISH HEAD OK DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE, TKMPE NORMAL SCHOOL OF ARIZONA Neto, gorft THE MACMILLAN .COMPANY 1907 • 'ah riffhis reaeri\'f Class r %i Book • I ^-^-^ Copyright)]^. COPYRIGHT DETOSIT: ARIZONA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO MACMILLAN & CO., Limited LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA MELBOURNE THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. TORONTO I ARIZONA Scale of Miles Cities with over 5000 TuCSOll p _ Capitals® County Seats® Cities and Villafe'es :^000 to.->(IOO^Prescott Other Places* Railroads — Cities and Villages lUOO to 3000-FlaBstatr WILLIAMS et.r.«A. Mi CO.. N t. Villages with less than 1000 Mohave Cit.v TARR AND McMURRY GEOGRAPHIES S UPPLEMENTAR Y VOL UME ARIZONA BY F. M. IRISH HEAD OF DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE, TKMPE NORMAL SCHOOL OF ARIZONA Neil) i!0rf$\ THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1907 All rights reserved T c^ UftnAKY of CONGRESS I wo CoDles Received SEP 12 I90f Capyneitt Bntry A XXc, No, COPY B. Copyright, 1007, By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. Set up and electrotyped. Published September, 1907. CONTENTS PAGE 1'HYSIOGRAPHY of the COROILI.ERAN RkGION ....... 1 Arizona .............. 2 Position 2 Size 2 Population 2 History .............. 3 Physiography' ............. 6 Surface : Plateau Region ; IMountaiii Region ; Desert Region ; Mountain Peaks 6-10 Drainage: Little Colorado River; Gila River System; Salt River; The Underflow ; Colorado River 10-13 Climate and Soil ............ 13 Temperature : Plateau Region ; Desert Region ; Mountain Region ; Range of Temperature ........... 13-14 Bainfall . • . 14 Irrigation ............. 15 Resources and Industries .......... 16 Mines and Mning : Copper; Gold; Silver; Other Minerals; Building Stone 10-19 Agriculture: Fruit Growing; Stock Raising; Sheep Grazing; Ostrich Panning ............ 19-22 Lumbering ............. 22 Manufacttiring 22 Commerce and Transportation ......... 23 Education .............. 24 Cities and Towns ... . . . . . . . c . 20 Appendix ....,.*......- 30 PHYSIOGRAPHY OF THE CORDILLERAN REGION 3J«4C The western portion of the United States is a part of the great region of mountains and plateaus which extends from Mexico north- ward into Canada. This great elevated region is known as the Cordilleras. Along its eastern border, in the United States, rise the rugged ranges of the Rocky Mountain system. Near the western border of the Cordilleras is another nearly parallel system of mountains, consisting of the Sierra Nevada and Cascade ranges, and still farther west, close to the Pacific Ocean, is a third mountain system known collectively as the Coast Ranges. Between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada-Cascade system is a series of great plateaus. At the north is the Columbia plateau, drained by the Columbia River, which has cut its way through the Cascade range to the ocean. Farther south is the Colorado Plateau, drained by the Colorado River, which flows in a southwesterly direction into the Gulf of California. Between these two plateaus is the elevated region known as the Great Basin, because its scanty rainfall finds no drainage outlet. Its surface is broken by many parallel ranges of mountains extend- ing north and south. South of the Colorado Plateau is a region of somewhat lower elevation, similar to the Basin region, except in that its drainage finds an outlet through the tributaries of the Colorado River. Arizona includes part of the Colorado Plateau and part of the open basin region to the south. ARIZOXA Position. — On a map of the United States locate Arizona. What political divisions border uj^on Arizona? What river forms part of its boundary? Between what meridians of longitude is Arizona? Between what parallels of latitude ? On a globe trace the thirty- fifth parallel around the world. What states and countries lie on or near this line? What important cities have about the same latitude as Phoenix? Draw an outline map of Arizona, with names of politi- cal divisions touching its borders. Put in the principal rivers. Mark Avith a dot each of six leading cities. Locate your own county and mark the county seat. What natural advantages has Arizona by reason of its position? On a map of the United States determine the distance from PlK^enix to Los Angeles; to Chicago; to New York. Size. — The total area of Arizona is 113,020 square miles, which is nearly twice the area of Illinois, and greater than that of all New England, together with Pennsylvania. Compare the area of Arizona with that of England; of France; of Italy. Using the scale of miles, find the distance across Arizona from east to west ; from north to south. AVhat is tlie distance from Bisbee to Flagstaff? Why can one not travel from Douglas to Kingman in a straight line ? What are the advantages of the great size of Arizona? The disad- vantages ? Population. — In 1000, the population of Arizona, by the United States census, was 122,931. This number shows an increase of nearly forty per cent in the ten years from 1890 to 1900. This gain was largely due to the immigration of people attracted by the wealth of the mines or the opportunity for agriculture. Official estimates show that the population of Arizona in 1907 was about 185,000, and that it is increasing at the rate of seven per cent each year. There were, in 1900, 24,644 Indians on reservations in Arizona. These Indians are being taught to care for and support themselves, and Indian troubles in Arizona are a thing of the past. Of the white population, fully three fourths are natives of the United States. They are an enterprising people of high social ideals. o HISTORY HISTORY The earliest human inhabitants of Arizona, of whom there is any trace, were a people similar in habits to the Hopi Indians who still dwell in the pueblos or villages of the plateau north of the Little Colorado River. Many evidences remain to show that these were an agricultural people and possessed a rude sort of civilization. In the canyons of the mountain and plateau regions are hundreds of cliff dwellings built of stone under the projecting ledges of rock. These contain pottery, ornaments, rude stone implements, and often human skeletons. In the valleys of the desert regions are the ruins of many villages built of clay, also ancient irrigating canals which show that these people understood raising crops in a dry climate. Even before the time of Columbus this region supported a large population, but, for some unknown reason, these dwellings had been abandoned long before the first Spanish explorers visited what is now Arizona. The attention of white men was first turned to Arizona in the early part of the sixteenth century. The Spaniards, who had con- quered Mexico, heard wonderful tales of the marvelous wealth of the " Seven Cities of Cibola, '' which were said to be situated some- where in the north. In 1539, the Viceroy of Mexico sent Marcos de Niza, a Franciscan friar, to see if he could find these wonderful cities. De Niza, with his party, crossed the present boundary of Arizona somewhere west of the present site of Nogales, and was received in a friendly manner by the Pima Indians along the Gila River. Traveling northeastward across the Little Colorado River, he came in sight of what he supposed to be Cibola, but the inhabit- ants were so hostile that he returned to IMexico without further investigation. Thus the first exploration of Arizona occurred about the same time that the French were exploring the St. Lawrence, and long before the English made tlieir first settlements in Virginia. When ALarcos de Niza returned to Mexico, he told such a wonderful story of what he had seen, that, in 1540, another expedi- tion was sent out under Francisco Coronado, who followed nearly the same route as did Marcos de Niza. On the way, he camped near the present site of Florence, and saw the Casa Grande, one of ABIZOSA the ancient dwellings mentioned above. At that time it was already deserted and partly destroyed, , but the walls are standing there yet. When Coronado reached Cibola, instead of rich cities full of gold and jewels, he found only a few poor Indian pueblos, some of which are still standing and inhabited. After subduing these Indians and sending out various exploring parties, one of which discovered the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, Coronado re- turned, sadly disappointed. But though he had found no treasure, he had claimed the country for Spain and liad opened the Avay for the missionaries, who now began to spread Christianity among the Indians. For a long time the mis- sionaries were hampered by the hostilities of the Apaches, who prevented them from making many permanent set- tlements. About 1732 they founded the mission of San Xavier, whicli still stands a few miles south of Tucson. Tucson was settled j^robably about the same time. Arizona remained under Spanish rule until 1821, when Mexico gained her independence. In 1816, during the war between the United States and Mexico, General Kearny, with his dragoons, crossed the southern part of what is now Arizona, following the Gila River to its junction with the Colorado, on his way to California. Following Kearny, in the same year, came a battalion of Mormon troops who entered the present bounds of Arizona near the south- east corner, and, following the Gila and San Pedro rivers, crossed the Colorado near what is now Yuma, establishing the first wagon route across the southern Cordilleras. At the close of the Mexican War, in 1818, tlie region became United States territory, being included within the boundaries of New Mexico, with the Gila River as its southern limit. In 1819, the discovery of gold in California attracted people from all over tlie world. Thousands from the United States and Mexico crossed Arizona on their way to the new mines, taking advantage of the route opened by the ]\Iormon Battalion. Many of these people returned later and settled in Arizona. The region south of the Gila was seen to afford an excellent Old Mission of Sau Xavier, near Tuesou. HIS TOBY route for a railroad to the Pacific, and was said to be rich in minerals. So in 1854 the United States Government, through James Gadsden, minister to Mexico, purchased this tract from Mexico, and the present boundary was established. In 1863, in response to petitions from the settlers, Congress The Capitol at Phoenix. separated the Territory of Arizona from New Mexico and gave it a territorial government of its own. For a long time the chief attraction to settlers was the wealth of the mines, but when the Apaches became less troublesome and were finally subdued, the people began to recognize the opportunities for agriculture. In 1877, the Mormons established several successful farming colonies in the valleys of the Little Colorado and Salt rivers. In 1881 the Southern Pacific Railway was completed across the southern part of the Territory, and two years later the Atlantic and Pacific Railway, now part of the Santa Fe system, was extended to the Colorado River across the northern part. Having thus secured facilities for immigration and the marketing of products, permanent progress was assured. AlilZOSA PHYSIOGRAPHY Surface. — Arizona may be divided into three physiographic regions. The first of these, the plateau region, occupies the north- eastern ]3ortion and is part of the great Colorado Phiteau. The second, or mountain region^ adjoins the plateau region on the southwest, and is a broad belt of short, nearly parallel mountain ranges, extending diagonally from the Colorado River in Mohave County to the southeast corner of the Territory. This region is from 70 to 150 miles wide. The third, or desert region^ includes the remainder of the Terri- tory, and lies south and west of a line from Mohave City on the Colorado River, past Phoenix, Florence, and Tucson, to Nogales on the Mexican border. Plateau Region. — The portion of Arizona which belongs to the great Colorado Plateau is an elevated region having an area of nearly 45,000 square miles. Its surface averages about 7000 feet above sea level and slopes slightly toward the north. At its southern limit it drops away abruptly in a long line of steep cliffs. On the map trace this line, beginning with the Grand Wash Cliffs, fol- lowing the Aubrey Cliffs and the Mogollon Mesa to the southern border of the White INIountains. Seligman, Ash Fork, Pine, and Payson are near the edge of the plateau. Find these places on the map. North of Payson the edge of the plateau is known locally as the "Mogollon Rim," and stands from 1200 to 2000 feet high. From below, this line of cliffs looks like a great range of mountains, but from tlie top of the rim the surface stretches away like a level plain. However, tlie surface is not so smooth as it appears in a general view, for in traveling over it one finds it cut by innumer- able deep canyons which have been slowly carved out by the streams of the region at the same time that the plateau was being slowly pushed upward. The C^ilorado River itself has cut, through the plateau, the most remarkable stream gorge in the world. That portion of its canyon which lies within Arizona is over 200 miles in length and from 2000 to 6000 feet deep, its walls rising almost vertically from the river. So many tourists visit this canyon to enjoy the grandeur of its PHYSIOGRAPHY scenery, that a railroad has been built from Williams to the edge of the canyon for their accommodation. San Francisco Peaks. The highest mountains in Arizona ; elevation, 12,7!V4 feet. The canyons of tlie tributary streams are similar to the Grand Canyon, but smaller because they carry a smaller volume of water. These canyons make travel in the plateau region very difficult, as it is not easy to cut a road down their steep walls, and it is frequently necessary to go a long way around in order to cross them. The plateau is largely made up of limestones and sandstones lying in nearly horizontal layers, as can be seen in the walls of the Grand Canyon and its branches. In many places, however, molten lava has been forced up from below through fissures in the rocks, and, spreading out upon the surface, has cooled in great sheets. North of Flagstaff are the San Francisco Mountains, the highest peaks in Arizona. Find them on the map. These great peaks are the remains of an extinct volcano, and consist of lava and cinders which have been forced up through the crater, and later have been worn and carved by rain and weather. In their neighborhood are many smaller craters and cinder cones, piled on top of the level sedimentary rock of the plateau. The White Mountains on the southern edge of the plateau were formed in a similar way. The region northeast of the Little Colorado River is largely a desert for lack of sufficient rainfall, but along the rim of the plateau there is a great belt of pine timber covering an area of six thousand square miles, being the largest unbroken pine forest in the United States. Forest regions are of great importance, as they prevent the washing away of the soil, and, by retaining the rain water, regulate the flow of the streams, preventing floods and maintaining the flow during drj'- seasons. In order to protect the timber from destruction by fires or by over-grazing (which kills the young trees), and to regulate the cutting of timber, the United States Government has 8 ARIZONA \nii(\.Q foreM reserves of this and other timbered regions of Arizona, and appoints rangers to ride through and take care of them. Mountain Region. — This broad belt of territory is continuous with the Basin region of Nevada and Utah on the one hand, and with the Sierra Madre of Mexico on the other. It is a region of nearly parallel mountain ranges, none of which are over fifty miles long, and few rise over 8000 feet above sea level. The trend of these ranges is, for the most part, from northwest to southeast, but in the southeastern part of the zone they approach more nearly a north and south direction. Locate on the map Black Mountains, Hualpai ^Mountains, Juniper jNIountains, Black Hills, Bradshaw Mountains, Mazatzal Range, Pinal ^Mountains, Superstition Moun- tains, Santa Catalina ^Mountains, Galiuro ^Mountains, Santa Rita Mountains, Chiricahua Mountains, and Huachuca Mountains. These ranges are separated by valleys which are deeply filled with sediment washed down from the mountains on either side. The mountains have been formed by the uplifting and tilting of great blocks of old sedimentary rocks, accompanied by outflows of lava through fissures. Long weathering has worn away so much of the rock that the ranges are very rugged. The mountains must have risen very slowly, for we see that the principal streams of the region, the Salt and Gila rivers, have cut their channels directly across the ranges. The tributaries of these streams drain the valleys between the ranges. The uplifts have brought to the surface many different kinds of rock. Various minerals have been forced into the fissures, and the veins thus formed have been exposed by erosion, making this a very rich mining region, both in quantity and variety of minerals. The presence of the mineral wealth has determined the location of many cities and towns in this belt. Note on the map. Chloride, Kingman, Prescott, Jerome, Congress, Mayer, Globe, Tombstone, Bisbee, Nogales, Douglas, and Naco. The rainfall of the mountain region is not so great as that of the plateau, hence there is less plant life. Still the valleys and canyons support a growth of cottonwood, ash, sycamore, and walnut, while the slopes are covered with shrubs sucli as manzanita and scrub oak, the latter furnishinof winter food for ranefe cattle. At higher levels are found junipers and Arizona cypress, valuable for fuel and for mine timbers, while those ranges which reach an altitude of 6500 to 7500 feet are covered with pine timber. PHYSIOGRAPHY Desert Region. — This portion of Arizona is characterized by short, parallel ranges of low mountains, rising abruptly from broad, level, arid plains. These mountains look as though they were half buried, which, in fact, is really the case. The broad plains have been formed of material which has been washed down from the mountains from time to time by rainstorms, and spread out in sheets over the valleys. Although the region is arid, it is subject to violent rain- storms occurring at long intervals, each storm being confined to a small area. In the course of years, each part of the region is tlnis visited. Now one of these " cloudbursts," as the minei's call them, sweeps away the loose soil from the mountain sides, where it receives no protec- tion from the sparse vegeta- tion, and the gathering water roars down the canyons in foaming torrents, carrying sand, clay, gravel, and even large bowlders far out upon the plain. In this manner, little by little, the valley is filled, for the rivers have neitlier volume enough nor slope enough to carry the sediment away. In some of these valleys, wells have shown the sediment to have a very great depth. On account of the low elevation of the desert re- gion, the rainfall is scanty, and the existence of plants depends upon their ability to resist drought. During the short rainy seasons the desert is usually covered with low plants whose brilliant flowers form masses of color often miles in extent. All these tender plants must quickly mature the seed which is to tide over the long months of drought which are to follow. The only perennial plants of the region are those which are able to retain moisture for long periods. Along the Colorado River, from Yuma north, the tree yucca is a characteristic plant. Farther east, the saguaro, or giant cactus, Giant Cactus in the Desert. 10 ARIZONA is a conspicuous feature of the landscape, and other species of cactus are plentiful, especially upon the lower slopes of the mountains. Over the greater part of the region grows the creosote bush, often wrongly called greasewood. Along the tcashes, or beds of wet-weather streams, are usually found groves of mesquite, iron-wood, and palo verde. These are about the only trees that are able to withstand the desert conditions. Their leaves are small, and their bark is of such a character as to evaporate very little water. Those parts of the desert which border upon permanent streams, or which are watered by irrigation, support a varied and luxuriant vegetation. Most, if not all, of the mountain ranges of this region are mineral bearing, but lack of water has delayed the development of mines. 3fountain Peaks. — Many j^eaks in Arizona are of considerable altitude, and are prominent landmarks. The summit of the highest of the San Francisco peaks is 12,794 feet above sea level, and over 1300 feet above the timber line. In the eastern part of the Terri- tory, Escudilla Peak reaches a height of 10,691 feet. In the White Mountains are Green's Peak, 10,115 feet, Ord Peak, 10,266 feet, and INIt. Thomas, 11,496 feet. Mt. Thomas rises nearly 400 feet above the timber line. Mt. Graham, tlie highest peak of the Pinaleno range, is 10,516 feet high, and is a noted summer resort for camping parties. The San Francisco Peaks are snow-capped the greater part of the year. Drainage. — The greater part of the surface of Arizona is included in two drainage basins, the Little Colorado River draining the plateau region, and the Gila River, with its branches, receiving the drainage of the mountain and desert regions. The northern part of Apache County is drained by a wet- weather stream called the Rio de Clielly, which flows north into the San Juan River in Utah. Portions of Mohave and Yavapai counties are in- cluded in the basin of Bill Williams Fork. All these streams are tributaries of the Colorado. A small area along the Mexican border is drained by streams of the nortliern Sonora. Little Colorado River. — The rim of the Colorado Plateau forms the divide between the Gila basin on the south and that of the Little Colorado on the north. The latter rises in the White Mountains and flows northwest into the Colorado River about 65 miles north PHYSIOGRAPHY 11 of Flagstaff. lis basin slopes gradually toward the northwest and from both sides toward the river. In the upper part of its course it flows through a broad valley which, by irrigation, has become an agricultural district, and supports a number of towns and villages, among which are Winslow, Holbrook, St. Johns, Springerville, and Snowflake. In the lower part of its course, however, it winds through a deep canyon with precipitous sides. This canyon lies in the midst of a Site of Roosevelt Dam. Showing voliuue of water at flood iu Salt River. remarkable region known as the Painted Desert, from the variety of colors exhibited by the sandstone buttes which cluster over its sur- face, and from which has been derived the material of the level stretches of sandy plain. In the rainy season the river carries, at times, a large volume of water, thick and turbid with the red sedi- ment brought from the desert by its wet-weather tributaries. In the dry season the river, in its lower portion, ceases to flow, and its bed is dry save for occasional pools of alkaline water. G-ila River System. —This is the most important stream system in Arizona. The Gila River itself rises in the mountain region of New Mexico and flows southwestward over five hundred miles to join the Colorado at Yuma. In its upper valley it flows through an 12 ARIZONA open, grassy country, watering a rich agricultural district which supports the towns of Solomonsville, Safford, and others. Then, after winding through several "box canyons " which it has cut through the mountain ranges, it emerges upon the plains of the desert region a few miles east of Florence. From this point to its mouth, its course is over the deposits of the filled valleys, where it is subject to floods of large volume, though usually of short duration. The river is usually highest in January and February, and in the summer months its bed is frequently dry for miles. Its principal tributaries are the Salt, Agua Fria, and Hassyampa rivers on the north, and the San Pedro and Santa Cruz on the south. Salt River. — This is the chief tributary of the Gila. With its main branch, the Verde River, it drains an area of 12,260 square miles (larger than IVIaryland), and receives the rainfall of the White Mountains and the southern slope of the rim of the plateau. In its upper portion it flows through a succession of mountain valleys and box canyons, emerging upon the desert plain at the foot of Mt. McDowell, just below the mouth of the Verde. From this point to its junction with the Gila it waters the richest agricultural district of Arizona, in which are located Phoenix, Tempe, and Mesa. The Salt and Verde rivers, above their point of junction, are of practically the same length, and the areas of their watersheds are nearly equal, yet the Salt discharges fifty per cent more water than the Verde because the rainfall of its basin is greater. As the water- shed of the Salt is rugged and not easy of access, its original growth of timber, brush, and grasses has remained undisturbed, and serves to check the washing effect of the rains and to regulate the flow of the stream. On the other hand, for many j^ears the more accessible watershed of the Verde River has been used for grazing purposes, and much of the timber has been removed. As a conse- quence, the rainfall in the Verde basin runs off rapidly and washes away the soil, and the Verde is subject to more frequent and higher floods than the Salt, and carries three times as much sediment. The Underflow. — The rivers of the desert region flow over the surface of the valley fill. This fill consists of beds of waterworn bowlders alternating with finer deposits, and is of great depth. Near Mesa, a well was sunk to a depth of 1300 feet without reaching bed rock. Now, as the elevation of Mesa is less than 1300 feet, the bottom of the vallev under the sediment is actually below sea level. From CLIMATE AND SOIL 13 this and other indications it is believed that at one time this region was much more elevated than now, and the streams were cutting down the valleys. Then the surface slowly sank. The streams were checked, and could no longer carry away the sediment, and this accumulated, forming the present desert plains. Some of the present streams, after flowing some distance on the plain, sink into these old sediments and reach the Gila only in very rainy seasons. The Hassyampa, Agua Fria, and Santa Cruz are examples. A large portion of the water of the Salt and Gila rivers also sinks. As a result, the valley fill is saturated with water which seeps slowly along in an underground course parallel to that of the surface streams, and can be reached by wells at various depths. This underground water is being utilized for irrigation purposes by pumping from wells. Colorado River. — The Colorado River drains an area of 225,000 square miles, nearly twice that of Arizona, but most of the water it carries comes from the high mountains of Colorado and Wyoming. Like other rivers of arid regions, its volume is subject to great variations. It usually begins to rise in March, when the mountain snows begin to melt, and reaches its highest stage in June. During July and August, it gradually subsides, and for the rest of the year carries less than one fifth of its maximum flow. Although it dis- charges annually enough water to irrigate some 4,000,000 acres of land, this water is not at present available for irrigation except in the lower part of its course, after it emerges from its great canyon at the Grand Wash Cliffs. CLIMATE AND SOIL Temperature. — Owing to the differences in elevation of its sur- face, Arizona exhibits such a variety of climatic conditions that, by traveling about a little, one could spend the entire year in a delightful climate without leaving the Territory. In the plateau region the conditions are those of the temperate zone. The summers are moderately warm and very pleasant, and the winters quite cold. At Flagstaff (elevation 6907 feet), the average temperature for January is 28 degrees, and for July, 67 degrees. The temperature seldom reaches 88 degrees in summer, 14 ARIZONA and sometimes falls to 20 degrees below zero in winter. Frosts occur early in the fall and late in the spring, so the region is adapted only to the hardier fruits, vegetables, and grains. In the desert region the summers are intensely hot, but the winters are mild and delightful. At Phoenix (elevation 1090 feet), tlie average temperature for July is 90 degrees, and for January, 50 degrees. In summer the temj^erature occasionally reaches 112 or 116, while tlie winter temperature never falls below 22 degrees, and seldom below the freezing point, even at niglit. The winter frosts rarely do serious damage. The climate may be said to be semi-tropical. Tlie climate of the mGuntain region varies with the elevation, from that of the desert to that of the plateau. Throughout the Territory, the daily range of temperature is very great. This is due to the dryness of the air, which allows the surface to cool very rapidly after sunset. A difference of 40 degrees between day and night is not uncommon. Hence, in the hot sum- mers of the desert region, the nights are cool and refreshing. On account of this dryness of the air, sunstrokes are unknown even in the warmest sections of Arizona, and men and teams are able to work without danger from the heat. Rainfall. — The average rainfall of the Territory is about 12 inches annually, but the amount varies with the altitude from less than 3 inches along the western part of the desert to 25 inches in the vicinity of the San Francisco jNIountains. Southwesterly winds prevail over the entire Territory the year round. These winds deposit very little moisture upon the com- paratively low desert region, but, as the air is forced up over the edge of the plateau, it becomes cooled, the water vapor is con- densed, and the elevated region from the San Franciscos to the White Mountains receives from 20 to 25 inches of rainfall yearly. The air, in passing over the Painted Desert, settles again and becomes warmer. Therefore the rainfall of that portion of the plateau is only 6 to 8 inches. There are two rainy seasons in Arizona. The summer rains usually extend through July, August, and September. During this time, some rain falls in all parts of the Teri-itory, and in the elevated regions, thunderstorms are of almost daily occurrence. The winter rains begin in November and continue at intervals CLIMATE AND SOIL 15 until the last of March. During this season much snow falls in the plateau and mountain regions. The slow melting of this snow moistens the stock ranges and supplies the rivers with water. During the remaining months rain seldom falls. Arizona is quite free from destructive storms, and tornadoes are unknown. The peculiar dust storms of the desert region are un- comfortable but not dangerous. They last but a short time, and are followed by clear and cooler weather. The bright and unfailing sunshine, dry air, and mild winters of Arizona have attracted to the Territory many people in search of health, and many others who wish to escape the discomforts of more rigorous climates. Irrigation. — The soil of all the valleys of Arizona is formed of material washed from the mountain sides by rain and streams. All sorts of rock materials are thoroughly mingled in the processes of transportation and deposit, and the result is a soil usually of great •'^^^ *s -:3'> Iriigatino; an Orange Grove near Phoenix. The water is run in furrows between the lines of trees. depth, and containing all the necessary elements of plant food. Since the rainfall of these valleys is entirely too small for farming, the question of raising crops from this extremely fertile soil becomes a question of water supply. This problem is solved by irrigation. The water of the streams is checked by dams and turned into canals which carry the water to the cultivated lands. The water is applied to the land as required, either by flooding the whole surface, as is done 16 ARIZONA in raising grain or hay, or by running the water over the land in furrows. The latter method is used in orchards and in growing vegetables. There are in Arizona nearly 1800 miles of these canals and ditches, some of which carry the water to as great a distance as 50 miles. The water used for irrigation is usually muddy. The mud or silt is finely ground rock material, and contains the substances needed for plant food. When spread over the fields with the water, it serves to restore the fertility of land which might otherwise become exhausted by the heavy crops grown. All the streams of the Territory are subject to great floods, durinor which the volume of water is neater than can be used. To prevent the waste of this flood water, and to secure a supply of water during the dry seasons, large storage dams are built, which retain the storm water in great reservoirs, such as the Roosevelt reservoir on upper Salt River, and the Laguna reservoir on the Colorado above Yuma. The water thus stored can be delivered to the canals as required, securing an uninterrupted supply, and enab- ling the ranchers to raise larger crops and to bring a much greater area under cultivation. In some parts of Arizona, water for irrigation is obtained from wells. Near Benson and St. David, also near Safford, the pressure of the ground water in the wells is sufficient to force it to the surface without the use of pumps. Considerable land in these localities is watered by these artesian wells. In the Salt River valley the supply of water is increased by pumping from wells sunk into the underflow. RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES Arizona's great natural sources of wealth are the rich mines, the extensive forests, the wide natural pastures of the stock ranges, and the fertile soil of the valleys, with water for irrigation. Mines and Mining. — The uplifting of so many different rock formations has brought within reach a great variety of minerals. Erosion has exposed the veins, and the absence of dense vegetation enables the prospector easily to recognize the existence of valuable ore deposits. The climate is such that mining can be carried on at BESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES 17 all seasons of tlie year without interruption by storms or heavy falls of snow. All these causes combine to make Arizona one of the richest mining regions in the world. Congress Gold IMine. Showing- cyanide reduction plant. lu these buildings the last traces of gold are taken from the ore. The mines have been a very important factor in the development of the Territory. They employ a great many men and pay out large sums of money for labor. They require large quantities of wood, coal, and oil for fuel, and lumber for timbering the shafts and underground workings. In order to transport these materials to the mines and to ship away the product, railways are built, and these further develop the regions through which they pass, and open them to settlement. There are valuable mines in nearly every part of Arizona, but the mountain region is the most important mining section. Here are found copper, gold, silver, lead, quicksilver, and other metals, and there are large deposits of gypsum, rock salt, onyx, saltpeter, and asbestos. Copper, — In the production of copper, Arizona is the second district in the United States, Montana being first, and Michigan 18 ARIZONA third. Copper is mined in nearly every part of the mountain region, in the mountain ranges of the desert region, and even in the Grand Canyon. There are four leading copper districts: Bisbee, Clifton-Morenci, Jerome, and Globe. Locate these places on the map. The ore mined at Bisbee is shipped by rail to the great smelters at Douglas, where the copper is extracted. There are large smelters Converters in the smelter at Dimglas. The sulphur is burned out of the molten mass hy a blast of air. The copj)er is then poured into molds. at Clifton, which handle the ore from the mines of Clifton, ^lorenci, and Metcalf. At Jerome and Globe the ores are treated in smelters close to the mines. G-old is distributed j)retty generally throughout the mountain region and the ranges of the desert. It usually occurs in quartz veins, as at Congress, where the veins have been followed by shafts and tunnels to a depth of over 3000 feet. In Yavapai County, much gold has been obtained from stream gravels or placers along the Hassyampa River and its tributary creeks. The placers near Greaterville, in Pima County, are worked by the hydraulic method. Silver is found associated with gold and other metals in many of the mines. Tombstone is the center of one of the most important silver-producing districts. This district also yields gold and lead. RESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES 19 Other Minerals. — The Castle Dome district, northeast of Yuma, yields very pure lead, which is shipped to San Francisco to be manufactured into paint. The rare metal, tungsten, valuable for toughening steel, is found in considerable quantities in the moun- tains north of Dragoon. Quicksilver occurs a few miles east, of Ehrenberg. Beds of gypsum 200 feet thick are found in the Santa Catalina Mountains, and gypsum occurs in many other localities. In the Verde valley are large deposits of rock salt'. Deposits of coal are known to exist near San Carlos, but they have not yet been developed. Building Stone. — Quarries at Flagstaff yield a fine quality of red sandstone which has been used for large and important buildings in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Denver, as well as in many Ari- zona towns. The Capitol at Phoenix is built of white tufa from the quarries of Yavapai County. Excellent granite for building purposes is found in many localities in unlimited amount. Marble, both white and black, is found in the Chiricahua ^Mountains near Bowie and in other places. Near Mayer and along Cave Creek are quarries of lime-onyx, which is very beautiful, and suitable for decorative purposes. Limestone and clay suitable for manufactur- ing cement are found at Roosevelt, where the cement for the government dams on Salt River is manufactured. Agriculture. — The agricultural interests of Arizona are next in importance to the mines. Several fortunate conditions contribute to the success of this industry. The soil of the valleys is deep and very fertile, and the necessary water is applied by irrigation at those times when the crops require it, and can be withheld at times when it would be a disadvantage. Thus the rancher is not dependent upon uncertain rains. The climate of the desert region is such that some kind of crop can be grown every month in the year, and the large amount of sunshine is favorable to the growth of crops. For these reasons, an acre of land in one of the irrigated sections of Arizona can be made to yield nearly three times as great a crop as an equal area of the prairie land of the central states. The valleys of the Salt, Gila, San Pedro, Santa Cruz, and Colorado rivers contain most of the irrigated land, though consid- erable farming is done in the valleys of the Little Colorado and Verde rivers and along many smaller streams. Li the better- watered portions of the plateau region, some " dry farming "' is car- ried on, but on a small scale. 20 ARIZONA In Arizona every farm, large or small, is called a " ranch," The j)rincipal crop is alfalfa, which is cut for hay, and can be made to yield five or six crops a year. It is a common practice to cut two crops of hay and one of seed, and then to pasture cattle on the fields the remainder of the year. In this manner the range cattle are fattened f(n- the market, and the rancher derives an added in- come from his land. Wheat, barley, and oats are extensively raised, and produce large crops. Sorghum and kaffir corn are grown for forage, and recently considerable Indian corn has been grown. Sugar beets do well in the Salt River valley. Potatoes thrive in northern Arizona, and in Threshinw and sacking wheat, Salt River valley. the southern districts two crops can be raised. By properly select- ing the planting season, almost every variety of garden vegetable can be grown. Besides supplying the local demand, hay is shipped in large quantities to southern California, Texas, and Mexico. Potatoes find a ready market in the mining camps. Melons do well, and line cantaloupes are shipped in iced cars to Chicago. Fruit Growing. — In northern Arizona and in the higher valleys of the mountain region, apples, cherries, pears, and peaches of excel- 1 BESOURCES AND INDUSTBIES 21 lent quality are grown. In the Salt and Gila valleys, apricots, grapes, and plums grow to perfection. Superior oranges and lemons are produced in the Salt River valley and near Yuma. The oranges ripen early, and therefore command high prices in eastern markets. Figs, almonds, and pomegranates grow well in the warmer sections, and strawberries are a profitable crop. Olives raised near Phoenix yield the highest grades of oil. The raising of dates has been proven a success, the trees requiring little care, and producing heavily. Ostriches in an alfalfa field. Stock Raisiyig. — The valleys and slopes of the mountain region and the extensive open country of the plateau region are largely devoted to cattle raising. The cattle are branded, and roam at large over the ranges^ feeding upon the grasses and shrubs. They are "rounded up "by the cowboys when it is desired to brand the calves or to select animals for the market. Those picked for shipment are usually driven to the irrigated valleys, where they are fattened upon alfalfa pasture before being shipped by rail to Denver, Kansas City, or Los Angeles. Near Wilcox, and in the Salt River valley, high-bred cattle and horses are raised. Dairying is carried on in most of the alfalfa districts. 22 ARIZONA Sheep G-raziny is a leading industry in the plateau region. The climate is favorable, and the open countr}^ well suited to the habits of the sheep. During the winter, when the pasturage on the ranges becomes scant, many of the flocks are driven south to feed upon the rich growth of herbage which springs up on the desert soon after the rains begin. Large numbers of Angora goats are also raised for their wool. Ostrich Fanning. — The largest ostrich farms in America are located in Arizona. There are over two thousand of these queer birds on the farms near Phoenix and Tempe, where they are fed u})on alfalfa. The climate is well adapted to this industry, for the l>irds thrive and multiply rapidly, and the feathers, which are plucked every eight months, are said to be finer and more beau- tiful than those shipped from South Africa. Lumbering. — Although the forests of Arizona are very extensive, the production of lumber on a large scale is at present confined to Coconino County. The timber is yellow pine. Railways are built into the forest to haul the logs to the mills at Flagstaff and Williams, where they are cut into lumber. This lumber is shipped through- out Arizona, and to points in Colorado, Kansas, and Nebraska, and occasionally even to Chicago and New York. The demand from these outside points is due to the decrease in the supply of lumber from the eastern forests. Manufacturing. — Arizona's most important manufacturing in- dustries are closely connected with the development of the mines. Besides the smelters and reduction works located at the large mines, there are others established for the purpose of working the ores from the many smaller mines. These are called custom s)nelters. The mining companies are thus saved the expense of sliipping the ore to distant places to have it smelted. At Douglas are large foundries and machine shops for the manufacture and repair of min- ing machinery. Some of the larger mines have their own sawmills for cutting mine timbers. Railroad shops at Tucson, Phoenix, and Prescott employ many men in the repair and construction of cars and equipment. Artificial building stone and gypsum plaster are manufactured at Douglas. Cement for concrete work is manufactured in connection with the government construction work at Roosevelt. Box factories in con- nection with the sawmills at Flagstaff and Williams supply boxes and crates to the fruit regions of California and the melon-growing districts of Colorado. EESOURCES AND INDUSTRIES 23 kH^ ^•ITS. r ^t«?ir Cement mill at Roosevelt. The wheat of the Salt River and Gihi valleys is ground in the flouring mills of Phoenix, Tempe, Mesa, Tucson, Solomonsville, and Safford. The beet sugar factory at Glendale has a caj)acity of a thousand tons of beets daily- Commerce and Transportation. — ^Nleans of transportation are nec- essary in order to reach markets for the exchange of commodities. What products does Arizona ship to outside markets ? What must Arizona people obtain from eastern markets? From the Pacific Coast ? The rivers of Arizona are not suited to navigation. Light- draught steamers can usually ascend the Colorado as far as Yuma, but little or no traffic is carried on by this means. The commerce of the Territory is carried on by the railways. There are about two thousand miles of railroads in Arizona. Two great trunk lines cross it from east to west; the Santa Fe in the northern part, and the Southern Pacific in the southern. Notice on the map how the Santa Fe follows the course of the Rio Puerco and the Little Colorado, and the Southern Pacific the Santa Cruz and Gila rivers in order to obtain easy grades. These roads connect Arizona with the ports of the Gulf of Mexico and the markets of the Mississippi Valley on the one hand, 24 ARIZONA and with the Pacific Coast cities on the otlier. A third line, nearly- completed in 1907, will cross the Colorado River at Parker, and following the valleys of the Salt, Gila, and San Pedro rivers, will connect with eastern lines in New Mexico. The Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix Railway was built to open communication with the mines of Yavapai County. On the map» trace its line, and notice branch lines to Congress, Jerome, Maj-er^ and Crown King, which are important mining centers. Trace the branch lines from the Southern Pacific to Globe, Tombstone, Bisbee, Douglas, and Silverbell. Why are these lines important ? Some of these branch lines have been constructed under great difficulties because of steep grades and deep canyons. Arizona carries on considerable trade with Mexico, which is reached by way of Nogales, Naco, or Douglas. These three cities are ports of entry for the collection of duties on imported goods. Some of the mining towns are not yet reached by the railroads^ and freight must be hauled to them in wagons. These wagons are large and heavy, and are drawn by from six to twenty horses or mules. This method is slow and expensive. Without the railroads, Arizona could have made very little progress toward her present prosperous condition. Main Buildiuy, Tempe Normal School. EDUCATION Arizona has developed an excellent public-school system. No' settlement is without scliool facilities. The larger cities have estab- lished hiofh schools. There are two territorial normal schools for EDUCATION 25 Maiu Building, University of Arizona, Tucsou. the training of teachers, one at Flagstaff and one at Tempe. The Uuiversit}' of Arizona at Tucson gives opportunity for higlier ediica- Pablic School, Flagstaff. tion, and is noted for the excellence of its school of mines and for the useful work of its agricultural experiment station. There are also a number of private schools and academies. In 1907, the number of pupils enrolled in the public schools of Arizona was ....... 25,360 the number of teachers employed .... 639 the number of school districts .... 293 the number of schoolhouses ..... 302 the total money expended for education . . $768,589.52 and the total value of school property was . . $1,880,010.00 CITIES AND TOWNS The location of the cities and towns of Arizona has been deter- mined b}' the three great interests of the Territory : mining, agri- culture, and stock raising. All the larger cities have waterworks, gas and electric light, electric street railways, ice factories, and other modern conveniences, and are connected by long-distance telephone lines. In tlie plateau region, where the chief interests are the raising of cattle and sheep and the cutting of lumber, Ave find the towns con- veniently near the stock ranges or the forests. In the valley of the Little Colorado River are many thriving towns. Jlolbrook, the county seat of Navajo County, is the principal shipping point of the region for cattle, sheep, and wool. ^S'^. Johns, the county seat of Apache County, Concho, Spt-ingerville, Snowjlake, and Heher are located among irrigated ranches and surrounded by fine grazing country. Winsloiv is a division point on the Santa Fe Railway, whicli maintains there a roundhouse and repair shops. In the forest belt. Flagstaff, a town of 1500 inhabitants in 1907, is lieautifully located at the foot of the San Francisco Mountains, and is surrounded by a region full of points of natural interest. It is the supply point for the sheep camps of a large area, and ships building stone from large sandstone quarries. The Northern Arizona Normal School is located here, also the Lowell Observatory, with its large telescope. Farther west is Williams, from which point a l)ranch line of the Santa Fe road carries tourists to the rim CITIES AND TOWNS 27 of the Grand Canyon. Both FLagstaff and Williams manufacture large quantities of pine lumber and boxes. In the mountain region, the cities have grown up around or near the important mines, and each mineral district has its group of towns and villages. Chloride, the center of the Hualpai district, has a large concen- trating works, and is connected by rail with Kingman, the county seat of Mohave County, and the shipping point for the cattle and mining interests of that section. Frescott, whose population was 6500 in 1907, is picturesquely situated in a beautiful valley among pine-clad mountains. It enjoys a delightful climate, and is a thoroughly modern city. Railroad shops and factories employ many men, and the city is the center of supply for one of the important mining districts as well as the trade center for many towns along the Santa Fe, Prescott and Phoenix Railway and its branches.' Among these are Humboldt, Mayer, Croivn King, Skull Valley, Kirkland, and Congress. A railway line into the Black Hills reaches Jerome (population 4500 in 1907), which depends for its wealth upon the United Verde copper mine and other mines in the vicinity. WicJcenhurg is a junction point on the Arizona and California Railway, and is the central point of a rich gold-mining district. Grlobe (population 8500 in 1907) is an enterprising city in the center of an important copper district, containing many mines, of which the principal producer is the Old Dominion, which operates large smelters. The products of these mines, as well as many mountain cattle, are shipped out over the Gila valley branch of the Southern Pacific, which passes through the rich agricultural valley of the upper Gila. This valley is one of the most important farming sections of the Territory, and here we find Solomonsville and Safford with flouring mills, also Geronimo, Pima, and Thatcher. Near the eastern boundary of the Territory are three of the busiest towns of Arizona. Clifton with 6000 inhabitants, Morenci with 5000, and MetcaJf with 2000, are but a few miles apart, and are built among the mines of a rich copper district, the second in Arizona in point of production. Although built on the steep sides of the canyons of San Francisco River and Chase Creek, they have many fine buildings and modern improvements. The Arizona and New Mexico Railroad gives an outlet to the Southern Pacific at Lordsburg, New Mexico. 28 ABIZONA The most productive copper district in Arizona surrounds the city of Bishee, whose popuhition was 10,000 in 1907. Here are the famous Copper Queen mine and the Calumet and Arizona, which together have produced over $20,000,000 worth of copper in a single year. A branch line connects with the Southern Pacific at Benson, and the ore from the mines is shipped over another rail- way to the great smelters at Douglas, which in size and capacity are second only to the great Washoe smelter in Montana. Douglas (population 9000 in 1907) is well laid out with broad streets and good buildings, and, besides the smelters, has also large machine shops, foundries, and other manufacturing establishments. A street iu Fhoeuix. Naco is the shipping point for large copper mines in Sonora, Mexico, with which it is connected by a railroad. Tombstone (population 2000 in 1907) is surrounded by large silver and gold mines which have been worked for many years. Wilcox and Benson are important railroad points. Noijales had a population of 2507 in 1907. It is the county seat of Santa Cruz County, and has important mining and stock- raising interests. It is located on the Mexican boundary, and is the chief port of entry for Arizona. Tucson, in the valley of the Santa Cruz, is the largest city of Arizona, with a population of 20,000 in 1907. It is the base of supply for a large number of mines, and does a large amoiint CITIES AND TOWNS 29 of wholesale and jobbing business. There is a fine public library, many fine business blocks, flour mills, and ice works. The Southern Pacific repair shops here are the largest in the Territory. The University of Arizona is located here, and the Carnegie Desert Laboratory is near by. In the desert region, the important towns are located in the irrigated sections. Phoenix, the capital and second city in size, had in 1907 a popula- tion of 15,000. It is situated in the fertile Salt River valley, the leading agricultural region of Arizona. It is connected by rail with the main line of the Santa Fe on the north and with the Southern Pacific on the south, and is on the route of the new east and west trunk line. It has fine buildings, beautiful parks, flour mills, plan- ing mills, and ice factories, and ships large quantities of farm products and cattle. Tempe (population 1400 in 1907) and 3Iesa (with 1250) are surrounded by fine ranches. Both these towns manufacture flour, ice, butter, and cheese, and ship large quantities of hay, grain, and fat cattle. The Tempe Normal School is a territorial institution, and is favorably situated near the center of population of the Territory. Yuma (population 2500 in 1907) is the shipping point for the rich farming and fruit-raising district of the lower Colorado River, and is the base of supplies for the mines of the Castle Dome, Fortuna, and other districts. 30 ARIZONA APPENDIX POPULATION OF THE CHIEF CITIES AXD TOWNS FOR 1900 WITH OFFICIAL ESTIMATES FOR 1907 Cities and Towns Benson . Bisbee . Chloride Clifton . Congress Douglas Flagstaff Florence Globe . Holbrook Jerome . Kelvin . Kinginau McCabe . Mesa Metcalf . Morenci Naco Nogales . Phoenix Pima Prescott . St. Johns Solonionsville Springerville Tempe . Thatcher Tombstone Tucson . 'NV'ickenburg Williams Winslow Yuma , Counties Cochise Cochise Mohave Graham Yavapai Cochise Coconino Pinal Gila Navajo Yavapai Pinal Mohave Yavapai Maricopa Graham Graham Cochise Santa Cruz jNIaricopa Graham Yavapai Apache Graham Apache Maricopa Graham Cochise Pima Maricopa Coconino Navajo Yuma 1900 800 465 1,271 1,495 360 2,861 400 1,761 5,544 521 3,559 629 885 644 646 7,531 1,305 1,519 1907 1,000 10,000 225 6,000 400 9,000 1,500 750 8,500 375 4,500 300 950 800 1,250 2,000 5,000 600 2,507 15,000 600 6,500 1,450 800 450 1,400 1,000 2,000 20,000 503 1,200 1,900 2,500 NEW PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY By RALPH S. TARR, B.S.. F.G.S.A. Professor in Cornell University, and co-author of the Tarr and McMurry Geographies Price $1.00 Modern. This being the latest book on the subject, the author has been able to describe the results of the most recent investigations into important physical phenomena, such as the eruption of Mont Pelee. Arrangement. For the first time a text-book in the science has been prepared that proceeds from the simple to the complex. The study of springs, rivers, valleys, mountains, and hills introduces the pupil to the study, while the study of the atmosphere, the weather, and more difificult subjects is presented near the end of the book. Application. As each new principle is presented, it is applied to definite localities with which the pupil is already acquainted. This method increases the child's interest in the study. Illustrations. There are 568 photographs of the places mentioned in the text. Next to being on the ground, these views are the best aid to teacher and pupil. No other text-book can compare with Professor Tarr's work in this feature. Human Element. In the chapters on the Physiography of the United States, Rivers of the United States, Distribution of Plants, Distribution of Animals, and Man and Nature, the effects and opera- tions of physiographic laws are clearly and interestingly shown. Teachable. By means of a summary at the close of each para* graph, of Review Questions and Topics at the end of each chapter, and of simple home experiment directions, the book becomes by far the simplest high-school text-book on the market. THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO ATLANTA SAN FRANCISCO THE MACMILLAN POCKET SERIES OP ENGLISH AND AMERICAN CLASSICS Edited foi- school use, with full notes and biogffaphical introductions. Bound in cloth. Uniform price of Series, 25 cents a volume; special discounts on orders for class use. •Addison's Sir Roger de Coverley. Brownings Shorter Poems. Mrs. Browning's Poems (Selections from). ♦Burke's Speech on Conciliation. Byron's Childe Harold. Byron's Shorter Poems. *Carlyle's Essay on Bums, with Selections. Chaucer's Prologue to the Book of the Tales of Canterbury, the Knight's Tale, and the Nun's Priest's Tale •Coleridge's The Ancient Mariner. Cooper's Last of the Mohicans. Cooper's The Deerslayer. 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