Illik .liiliii .Mllillli iilllllll 'mil IlIBRARY OF CONGRESS. #1 # # 1 FORCE COLLECTION.] * UNITED STATES OK AMERICA. J THE LEGENDS OF lONTAUI. J BY J. A. AYRES WITH AN HISTORICAL APPENDIX. uf,ntf» CS\P^ NEW YORK: GEO. P. PUTNAM, 155 BROADAVAY. LONDON: PUTNAM'S AMERICAN AGENCY, REMOVED FROM PATERNOSTER ROW TO J. CHAPMAN, 142 STRAND. 1849. \>^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1848, by J. A. AYRES, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Connecticut. PRESS OF CASE, TIFFANY & CO., HARTFORD, CONN. PREFA CE. During the summers of 1H40, '7, the ;uilhor liiul the pleasure of visiting the peninsula of Mfjnlauk in eomjjfiny with (X fri(;n(l, to whom all its oljjects (jf curiosity ani] its tales of former times were farriiii;j.r. I'artly to recall the pleasant hours which he there spent, and partly because he deemed the subject one of interest in itself, he haff produced the following poem ; in whif;h, if any see little to praise, he would fain hope that the eflort to cornrri(;n LEGENDS OF And swift Aurora's joyous fligbt, Already touched the hills with light. On Nommonock's bold ridge they stood, Beyond the rolling Hither Wood ; Their curious eyes ran o'er the sand Of lone Neapeague, the water land ; Then bounding down the steep descent Across the barren plain they went. On Acabonick's pebbled shore With faintest voice the waters pour ; So light the murmurs float away, They seem to die along the bay ; Yet did its low soft whisper cheer The conjuror on his path of fear, Till by a flowery vale he stood, That crossed the rude and tangled wood. How came the flowery vale to lie Where only forest shades are nigh ? What mean the joyous plants that rest Upon its bosom gaily dressed ? A bubbling spring its course divides, MONT AUK. 63 Softly the murmuring water glides, Till with ceaseless flowing far away It hideth in the tranquil bay. Beside the vale the conjuror stood And eager viewed the tangled wood ; He heard the crackling twigs behind, A warning of the sighing wind. And knew the foe no farther back Came hke the death-hound on his track. A moment on his swarthy face Fierce passions lit their burning trace. Then dread, and terror, and despair, As quickly wrote their being there. Something there was within his eye That fate's last struggle might defy, Yet like a fast expiring flame With flickering light it went and came. Men say that in that dreadful hour He struggled with the tempter's power, And that the misty cloud that rose Above the flowery vale's repose. And slowly sprang to meet the day. 64 LEGENDS OF In flesh and blood bore him away. His swift pursuers paused to hear The wild cry of despair and fear, That rent the vapor's folding shroud, Like thunder struggling through the cloud. Fast rolled the sounding cry along By Litganee's low murmuring song ; Towards Noyack's distant wood it died, Unkenchie's rippling shore beside ; Meshomac heard, and the glittering side Of Manchonock at even-tide. The flowery vale you still may see. Beyond the quiet Litganee ; Where years ago the wizard came And vanished in the cloud and flame. And men still say that every year When the lone woods are brown and sear. And dismal winds are sighing low O'er forests fading sad and slow, The traveler late at night may hear MONTAUK. 65 The wild whoop of the conjuror, And timid neighbors fear to follow. In the dim light of eve, " the Whooping Boy's Hollow.'"" Joy to the music of the birds,"^^ that come Upon the autumn wind, from their far home : Joy to their rustling wings fast passing by, And gladsome forms traced on the tranquil sky. In countless roving flocks, they settle down Upon the short-browsed hills like meadows mown ; Chase through the grass already brown and sear, The last poor insect of the waning year ; Or high aloft in lengthened lines they fly, With heedless haste to greet the southern sky. O'er Fithian's plains when eastern winds prevail. In gathering crowds the gentle plover sail ; 66 LEGENDS OF With curious eye inspect their feeding place. And then as quick their former path retrace. Mark how they sink along the extended plain, As distant far you stretch and look in vain ; Till o'er the bounding hills with sudden rise, Their glancing plumage glitters on the skies. With lengthened flight they surely turn again. And surely trace once more th' inviting plain ; Backward and forward patiently they fly. Till some choice spot attracts their leader's eye ; Then settling down, their nimble feet explore The grassy tufts for Autumn's treasured store. Nor these alone the fruitful plains supply ; Hark ! to the sounding call, high up the sky, Of the Great Tell-tale slowly passing by. With clamorous answer, all the marshy ground Wakes into life and sends the echo round. Now stooping from his lofty flight with care. Downward he glideth like a falling star. Swiftly the glassy lake he passes o'er, And with raised wing lights on the sloping shore. In flocks of countless numbers, to and fro MONTAUK. 67 The gentle Peeps and timid Frost-birds go ; Settling in crowds upon the grassy plain, And scarcely settling ere they rise again. The giant Fute and wary Curlew fly With steadier wing among the smaller fry. Hark to the murderous gun ! and far and near. The universal throat of discord hear. O'er all the plains, wild-startled at the sound, From frightened flocks the hurried notes resound : But mark, far on the swelling hills that rise From the fair plains to meet the northern skies. There sits the Eagle ; proud and silent king Of all that cleave the air on feathered wing ; Upon a blasted, tree perchance the last Of spreading forests in the ages past. Still is his wing and calm his flashing eye. That heeds not, if it notes aught passing by. But now from far the quick report resounds, From hill to hill the flying echo bounds ; With head half raised he views the flight below. In wild confusion driven to and fro. Along the hills the timid Curlew fly, 68 LEGENDS OF With hasty wing to shun the danger nigh ; Breasting with easy stroke the steep ascent ; Easy for all save one now well-nigh spent. See how the poor bird fails upon the wind I Left by his swift companions far behind ; Steady though slow he feels his vigor fail, To scale the hill will all his strength avail ? Lo ! now the Eagle cleaves his liquid way. Falling like light upon his distant prey. Yet no exulting notes his deed proclaim ; Silent he flies as if in very shame. Delightful Kongonock ! thy tranquil rest Takes the sear leaf of autumn, to its breast. From the far hills chased by the blustering wind. Within thine arms a home its wanderings find. There, like a fairy's boat it floats awhile. Till rippling waves its tender structure spoil ; Then as the foundered ship, to rise no more It sinks beneath the wave or idly beats the shore. Where bleak Culloden lifts its hoary brow, O'er foaming rocks that line the shore below. MONT A UK. 69 Hark ! to the quivering wings that swiftly fly, While autumn twihght gilds the eastern sky. The Golden'^ Eye, whose sounding pinions wake On either side the echoes of the lake ; The heavy Brant and Grey Duck modest drest, The painted Widgeon, with the russet crest, And Teal light-springing through the tranquil air. In the fast passing shades to the still lake repair. There while the morn its early glory flings. Ere her swift car from the broad ocean springs ; With patient toil they search the reedy shore, Or underneath the fruitful fields explore. How changed are all save thee, Oh quiet lake ! No more wild cries of war thine echoes wake ; Gone are the embowering trees, beneath whose shade At dusky eve the Indian lovers strayed ; The deer is fled that swam thy liquid pool. Chased by the ravening wolf, with leap and howl ; Gone all thine old mementos; yet remain Unchanged thy placid smiles beside the silent plain. 70 LEGENDS OF What solemn thoughts are with the buried dead ! Whether they sleep in grassy church-yards laid, Or in the massive vault, or sculptured tomb. Whose voiceless chambers wait in silent gloom. Here is the burial-ground^^ — how still they rest ! The dead of other days crumbling to dust. Rude stones unchiseled mark the holy spot, Already by the living half forgot ; Cheerful upon the hillside, gathering here The feeble sunbeams of the waning year ; Wooing in spring the early fickle ray. With grateful warmth upon the mouldering clay. Above the swelling earth the green grass waves, The meek-eyed'" plover hides among the graves, And gaily springs to cleave the liquid air. With mellow whistle half devoid of fear. How have the living spirits passed away That gave of old life to the slumbering clay ! Where are the glorious thoughts, the lofty aims. That woke and struggled with their mortal frames ? And where the dweUing of the quenchless mind, MONTAUK. 71 Whom death's strong grasp fails in his strength to bind ? Close by this ancient grave-yard, farther down, With curious eye behold th' imprinted" stone ; And close beside, the pool whose waters clear Grow fresh and sparkling all the livelong year. Here, as the tale is told of olden time, A warrior fled disgraced by treacherous crime, Upon the flinty rock his foot he pressed, And to the north wind bared his shaggy breast. Then with a mighty bound he forward sprang, With his last cry the hill and valley rang, The opening earth received him to its dead. While bubbling waters flowed above his head ; And still the living fountains rise and spring. And the print on the rock stands its witness to bring. Autumn with shortening day and paler sun. And changing flower and leaf, came slowly on ; Each morn I woke to see the shadows fall. Higher and higher on my chamber wall ; The deep blue sky, and strength-reviving wind. 72 LEGENDS OF Came like an inspiration o'er the mind ; And yet I waited, lingered for the sweep Of the wild tempest o'er the heaving deep. To one whose ear is open, and whose eye With right conception views the changing sky, And signs at morn and eve, in air and earth, Nature becomes a prophet speaking truth ; The birds are wise in knowledge, even the worm Hides in the earth to bide the coming storm. Hark ! to the sighing wind, and see at last. The thin-veined clouds hide the prophetic west ; In mimic whirlwinds all along the path. The parched dust of summer flies the earth. Then comes the storm, gathering its powers by night, And wildly raging with the morning light. Great power of waters ! how the island shakes ! While on the shore the crested surf-wave breaks ; The everlasting sea, seen far below From the tall cliffs, is white as driven snow ; Roll the huge billows high o'er dry Neapeague, Her thirsty sands are drenched a foaming league ; The rocks and lovely shade of Nommonock, MONTAUK. 73' Tremble and quake beneath the ceaseless shock : The raging tempest through the Hither Wood, Shouts to the Storm-god of the angry flood : Battered Culloden on his iron gate, Seems with delight yet fiercer blows to wait. The tall stern cliffs that hear the billows roar. From the far point along the southern shore, Sink from their towering height beneath the wave. Whose wild confusion is their watery grave. Oh yet a little longer, still pour on, Spirit of storms ! o'er firm Wamponomon ; Drive the swift mists, from ocean's face that spring. Like billows o'er the land on hastened wing. Here will I rest me on the farthest verge, Strong to resist the wild Atlantic's surge, Catch the first breath of swiftly-traveling air, From dim Manisses in her foam-rocked lair ; And listen to the notes, that loudly rise From sea and tempest to the shrouded skies. Come unto me, breath of the raging air. Fall, stormy rain, swift clouds your gates unbar; Rise, ocean mists, and chase the flying wind 10 74 LEGENDS OP Like ghosts that flit across the wandering mind : Dash foamy spray, and fling your sparkUng gems, Brighter than stones in kingly diadems. Wake, Oh my soul, and see the glorious birth Of storm and ocean and the wrestling earth. Hail to the sea and storm ! the mountain throne. And stars dim-traveling o'er their mighty zone ; God speaks in all his wonders, let me hear The awful whisper sounding in my ear. All that hath power or vastness, be to me, The presence manifest of deity. A ship upon the waters, in the cloud Of spray and winged mist, wrapped like a shroud, Sunk all her shining canvas o'er the main. Save the reefed topsail for the flying train. Hark ! in the wild commotion, from afar How the rude spirits sing through rope and spar. In vain — no ear save fancy's hears the cry. Loud uproar reigns and stunning tumult nigh. In sheltered coves the wary sea-fowl lie. Watching the tempest with experienced eye : The battered Peeps and Plover, seek the grass MONTAUK. 75 That waves luxuriant o'er the wild morass ; Trees rock and bend before the rising gale, Like tapering spars, pressed by the extended sail ; All nature feels the tempest, owns the power Of wild disorder in its raging hour. Night came with rayless darkness, and I heard Clear as the tramp of war to battle stirred. The falling cf the billows one by one, That shook the beacon to its topmost stone. And when slumber with leaden eye came on. And hushed and mingled all wild sounds to one, Dimming the clear outgoings of the soul, Still, thought that never slumbers held control. And with young Fancy, maid divinely fair. Ran riot through the worlds of earth and air. Forever labor. Oh untiring thought ! With bright-eyed Fancy sometimes come to naught, ' Laughing through all her gorgeous halls of light. Where scenes unreal wake real delight ; Walk through the years to come, like prophet sage. And catch the brightness of the coming age ; 76 LEGENDS OF MONTAUK. With Inspiration, child of heavenly birth, Flee the uncertain light of clouded earth. Stand on the hills by love-led angels trod. And bow thrice-blessed, at the throne of God. Nor idle vt^ander only, glorious thought ! Strive in all labor, in all wisdom sought. Swell the full heart of love, that throbs to share The pains and sorrows which the afflicted bear ; Toil for the million, stay the curse of sin. Labor and pray to let the blessing in ; And when, like mist at morn, life fades away, Up-springing to the light of coming day. Wake then, undying thought, from all that dies. Where the rude wreck of time in ruin lies. Wake with the angels, whose inquiring eye Shines in the light of God, no more to dim or die. PART III. " I was a spirit in the midst of these." — Montgomery. Thoughts, both real and unreal. Are the progeny of sleep. Swarming in her fruitful chambers, Where restraint no vigil keeps ; Sometimes, like an inspiration. Gathering up the thread of life. Merry in its mirth and pleasure. Frowning in its dark-eyed strife ; And sometimes, in graphic vision. Picturing as the real life, Stranger phantasies than ever In the maniac's mind were rife ; 78 LEGENDS OF Dwelling in the past and present, And with fearless hand and heart. From the holy future ages, Drawing wide the veil apart. While the tempest shook the island. And the night outvied the day. In the arms of mighty slumber, Like a nurse-rocked child I lay ; But a vision, more than worthy Of the glorious sounds I heard, Mingled with the rising voices. And my inmost being stirred. Listen while I tell the vision. It is fresh within my brain. And I almost pray for gladness, I may never dream again. The past with me was perished ; and I woke. Like Adam, when full-orbed creation broke Upon his new-born wonder ; nothing strange. Or stranger than all things, was in the change ; I had forgotten all that came behind. MONTAUK. 79 And unastonished rode the viewless wind, Walked the fair caverns of the deep, and heard Its melody of waters gently stirred ; Or passed, like swift-winged angels, far along Where rolling planets wake immortal song. More than all this, with deeper joy, I held Communion with all spirits of the world ; Talked with the Genii of the flood and air. Heard all the murmurs that were whispered there ; Heard all, knew all, and yet was strangely free. Naught of all things that were was aught to me. Moved by that secret sympathy which binds Even in the dream-land, earth to earth-born minds ; Under an ocean chff alone I lay, watching the storm. That shook its noble form. From its sea-washed base to the topmost stone : Spirits of earth, ocean and air. All abroad in the tempest were. 80 LEGENDS OF There's a lull of the whirlwind, I hear on the deep The song of the dead in the ocean that sleep ; They are many, they are many, in their light-rolling car, As it driveth along on the swift-flying air, And their voices are strange to all save me. As they shout with the tempest or hum to the sea. CHORUS OF SPIRITS. We're a merry band of brothers met. Every one out o' the sea, Our bodies are laid In the ocean shade, And our spirits wander free. In the depths of the ocean home they say. Are coral grottoes fair. But more than these, brothers, we love The upper world of air. We drank of the sea when the north wind blew. And the icy spirit hid, MONTAUK. 81 With slippery hand each rope and spar, Under its crystal lid, And our numb hands over the cordage slid. Here and there one, not all together, In the raging storm, and in smiling weather. On our car the foam-drops rest. Glittering gems from ocean's breast, Tinted spray, with colors meet. Folds its drapery round our feet. And the tempest lendeth its wings to bear Our burden aloft through the flying air ; Or we gently glide when winds are low. With the song of the ripple under our bow. We're a merry band of brothers met. Our songs to the deep we sing, And mortals listen in breeze and storm. And say 'tis the wild wind's wing ; But they carelessly hear the song of the dead. Of the ocean dead who sleep Beneath the brine, on the knotted line A hundred fathoms deep. 11 82 LEGENDS OF FIRST SPIRIT. I had traveled far and fearless, O'er the glorious ocean's face, And I loved its every motion. Tranquil breeze or restless chase; Oft I gazed upon its bosom, Dreaming what its secrets were. When it slept so still and tranquil In the balmy summer air ; Yet I loved it more and better When the tempest shook its wing. And the black and angry water Like a charger seemed to spring. Yet I love thee, glorious ocean. Though my mortal body hide. Where the frowning coast of Norway Looks upon the restless tide. Ride on brave car, I shall sing in the ear Of many who die like me. When the tempest's breath MONTAUK. 83 Wraps the ship in death. And their ghosts flit over the sea. The north wind blew coldly, We lay like a wreck. And the drops of spray frozen. Slid off from our deck. How the tempest drove us onward. While our bodies, lame and stiff. Bound along the ship dismantled. Floated towards Luffoden's cliff. Wet and weary, dull with hunger, When its frowning beacon rose. Dim amid the mists of ocean, Like a giant in repose ; From the score of living beings, Struggling for the woe of life. Not a cry of fear or terror Witnessed to the anxious strife. Yet in every earnest bosom. As we neared the dreaded shore, Hope that had not ceased its burning. Feebler flamed than heretofore. 84 LEGENDS OF In the foaming waste of waters, Striving with my latest breath, There I left my mortal body To the watchful eye of death. Little I dreamed, when stiff and cold The north wind chilled me through, That I should glide in my spray-girt car, Over the ocean blue ; Or laugh on the wings of the tempest dread, "While I sing to the winds the song of the dead. In the ear of the maiden. Whose lover will come, On the breeze rudely blowing In peace to his home ; And who smiles from her casement. Out on the sea, I sing pleasant music, A song bold and free ; And she blesses the voice of the loud-sounding wind, And looks for the ship that lingers behind. Yet the same tone is sad To some poor stricken form, MONTAUK. 85 Whose last stay and helper Now battles the storm; And she trembles to hear the tone of the blast, As it rattles the door, hastening furious past. I am the spirit that to the wind Giveth its utterance clear ; Its beautiful tone As we travel on. Mortals lone to hear ; \ On land and sea. They listen to me, And only cowards fear. We're a merry band of spirits met. Each one a work to do. Brothers of earth, as we travel on We sing our songs to you ; Busy forever, never in vain Toiling o'er earth and the restless main. 86 LEGENDSOP SECOND SPIRIT. When the south wind blows softly, The low ripples come O'er the still face of ocean, Like love to its home ; They glide where the rounded stones Lie on the sand, And the voice of their music Is low on the strand. The surf beating momently Time for the sea, Down in its beaded foam Whispers to me ; Under its hoary brow. Fast driving to and fro. The rolling pebbles of ocean go ; And out of the deep a music is heard That beareth no likeness to mortal word. List to its sounding roar. When the wild waters pour, MONT AUK. 87 Fierce on the stormy shore ; And tell me if aught in earth or air, With the changeable notes of the surf compare. I to the soulless water give Its tones of music, words that live. And to man's wearied path impart The songs of the sea to cheer his heart. THIRD SPIRIT. In graves of earth the dead are laid, Over them waves the willow's shade, And if beautiful flowers are springing there, What for these do the" slumberers care? Under the ground they sleep in vain. They shall not wake to life again, Till their mouldering bodies crumbled away, Hear the call of the judgment day. Over their bones the earth-worms crawl. And the rains of winter patter and fall,^ Oozing through the damp cold clay. 88 LEGENDS OF Where in silence they moulder away ; Yet they pity the ocean dead who sleep Down in the caves of the changeless deep ; And seem to doubt in their hearts of fear, If the hand of the Lord be everywhere. To the spirit of cold I listened awhile, For he sang how his dreary domain By the walls of night, held many a sight Worthy his powerful reign. He rode on a throne of glittering ice, And its burnished pomp was a choice device, Veined with green and deep-sea blue. Whose changeable tints were the water's hue. MONTAUK. 89 SONG OF THE COLD. By my power, at the word of the Lord, Crystals of snow on the earth are poured ; Beautiful beings out of the sky. Falling upon our world to die. Sometimes when the air is still. And silence listens on plain and hill, Dropping on tree and bush and stone. Till a robe of white over all is thrown. Under the snow, the laurel green. And larch, and fragrant pine are seen ; Then the north wind cometh on, And the beautiful sights of the snow are gone ; Shaken from every loaded bough, Fiercely driven to and fro, Idly it whirleth round and round, Fearing to fall on the frozen ground. Or hides away in crevice and nook. Where the howling blast forgets to look. The waters that leap from their mountain home, 12 90 LEGENDS OF I freeze to a pillar of silver foam ; On its side with slanting ray The pale light shines through the shortening day, Yet not a crystal gem on its face, Can the power of the heat-giving sun efface. I chill the life of the flowing stream, Till like a stone its waters seem; And the ear on the surface, listens in vain For the drops running back to ocean again. Hoary old wastes of ocean ! tell My power in the realms where I love to dwell ; Out of the deep hke mountains I bring Crags that know no summer or spring ; In the brilliant land of cold, Never their dazzling sides grow old, For the gathering snows fall every day, And I glue to their feet the ocean spray. How many years has the fallen snow Piled on the iceberg's chilly brow, Where beneath Bootes train, It layeth its head to rest on the main. Man cannot count its tale of years, MONTAUK. 91 For the hardened snow like the ice appears, Both are frozen, turned to stone, And the crystal flakes and the ice are one. Unto my home, the lightning's flame And echoing thunder never came ; Yet there waketh sometimes a voice as loud As ever broke from the parted cloud. I thunder in my still domain. When the depths of the ice are rent in twain. Man loveth not my desolate home. Yet his restless feet to my altar come. Searching the secret place of the cold, Which his eager eye shall fail to behold. Impotent man shall never climb Where the hills of ice are as old as time. Round about my regal throne Walls and battlements are strown. And I dwell in my pride and pomp alone. Many a secret thing is hid Under the ocean's frosty lid ; Ships and men in my kingdom sleep. Who are neither the dead of the earth or the deep ; 92 LEGENDS OF I have buried them one and all, Not with book, or mourners, or pall ; In the cabin and hold they lie, Every one as he chanced to die. Some are crouching over the fire. Where they watched its flame expire, Or with pen in hand give earnest heed. Writing a tale that none shall read ; And the paper lies on the table-stand, Just as it did when I stopped their hand. Hundreds of years, and there cometh no change. The muscle is fi.ill, and the light blue vein Over the temple shall yet remain, Only the look of the eye is strange : In the eye of vision the spirit lives. Wonderful power its bright light gives. And I cannot save the beautiful eye. For the spirit of man shall never die. I have heard the breath of summer sing How delicate flowers in his kingdom spring, How the green leaves wave on the forest trees. And softly move when he wakes the breeze ; MONTAUK. 93 But where on the earth, can you find a sight Like the penciled work of the frost at night. There is a place in the heart of the deep. Where the waters of ocean never sleep ; Over it hangs in the light of day, The bow of hope on a cloud of spray ; And the troubled billows foam and pour On the rocks below with a changeless roar. Who ever saw the whirlpool drink The ocean wave from its eddying brink ! Or with triple^'"^ courage, steered his boat Where the wrecks of the billow fear to float. I sat on the cloud of foam and spray That over the pool in the shadows lay, And saw the struggling waters leap. Like Hay don's war-horse,^"* into the deep ; 94 LEGENDS OP Yet I heeded little the rushing wave, Or the waters that sank to a bottomless grave. Round about, and round about, In the foam and spray and out. Spirits were gliding. From me never hiding. Circling round the line of foam That marks on the sea their restless home. CHORUS OF SPIRITS, We are avengers Of the deeds of the sea, Wherever man goeth We fail not to be ; And we read in his heart Thoughts that fallow to crime, And watch for their fruits In the growing of time. The waters sink From the whirlpool's brink. M O N T A U K . 95 Down, down, down ; Underneath Is the land of death, Where the dead of the sea, unworthy to ride In their glorious car o'er the foamy tide, Like the useless weed are thrown. While ocean waits in its restless bed. Listening to hear the sure decree. By the word of the Lord, there is no more sea, Sorrow and gloom are over their head ; Time lives when hope is fled. Thundering billows, foam and pour. Brothers, we pass the waters o'er. Bring the mortals Circed"^* with crime, Hopeless in the love of time, Heave them over the whirlpool's brink, Where the foaming water's sink. 96 LEGENDS OF FIRST SPIRIT. Who loveth not the mother that bare him ! Though her eye be old and dim ; Comes not oft, when age or sorrow- Clouds the pleasant light of the morrow, Sitting by her side to cheer The weary hours of life's waning year. By the gates of the sea, Where the navies of ocean ride, Rocking on the changing tide. Up and down heavily, I saw one of the children of mirth Eagerly wooing the pleasures of earth ; Carelessness laughed in his broad blue eye, And he lived as if he were never to die. By him was the sparkling cup. Wanton fingers took it up, Placed it to his very lip, And he could not help but sip, Though he knew the flowing bowl MONTAUK. 97 Was a stake against his soul. Dalliance lapped his life in bliss, With her love-ensnaring kiss, And her mildew on the heart, Blighting all its holy part ; Till his conscience heeded not God above ; And how could he think of his childhood's love! Far, far away ; In another land, and another clime. Walking slow by weary old Time, Followed by w^ant from day to day. Whose lean hand ever on her shoulder lay ; His mother looked o'er the spreading sea. For the child she had cradled on her knee. And lay awake of nights to hear The winds howl over the waters drear. I pointed him out when he strove with the sail That flapped in the arms of the strong-wrest- ling gale, And it flung him down on the bubbling foam, One more spirit to the ocean home ; Yet not in their glorious car to ride, 13 98 LEGENDS OF In calm or storm, o'er the flowing tide. Down to the whirlpool's deepest cell I throw him ; There let him dwell, No one to know him ; Let him not hear In his hours of fear. Even a sigh that moveth cheer ; Where solitude broods o'er her weary reign, And anxious silence listens in vain. A ship on the ocean ! no car of the dead, A ship on the ocean ! her flag overhead. Every sail fully set, not a reef-point is there. Fore and mizzen, main and jib, every one is draw- ing fair. To the sky-sail that hangs on its tapering spar. Through the mantle of foam that is spread on the deep, "■ MONTAUK. 99 Lying over in the tempest, see the gallant vessel sweep ; True and fair she cleaves the water, not an arm on her wheel. Riding o'er the foaming billow as if angels blessed the keel ; On her sides the spray and vapor beat like showers of summer rain, And the wind that moves the ocean struggles with her sails in vain. Swinging on the straining yards, gliding down the slippery mast, Loud they laugh in mirth and frolic, while the tem- pest shouteth past. Tell me, ye who know the ocean, who are these that sail so bold. And while tempests rage and thunder, fear nor ter- ror seem to hold. Tis the phantom ship ; that in darkness and wrath Ploughs evermore itsi waste ocean path ; And the heart of the mariner trembles in dread. When it crosses his vision like a ghost of the dead. 100 LEGENDS OF CHORUS OF SPIRITS. Gather storms, Oh wasting ocean, Roll your foaming billows high. Night with cloud and pall of darkness. Veil in gloom the guiding sky ; Storm and sky and hastening water. Rise against our path in vain, Idle all your sounding warfare, Free we course the ruffled main. Wail, oh winds, a mournful requiem. O'er the great funereal deep, While they pass in countless numbers. To their long forgotten sleep. From our number none shall perish. We are masters of the wave. And the rolling floods that mock us. Nevermore shall be our grave.» MONTAUK. 101 Rise, Oh ship, to breast the billow, Crowd aloft the shivering sail. Drive where ere our fancy leads us. Stronger than the sounding gale ; Hoary mists fall thick and heavy, Winds opposing, howl and rave. Nothing stays our gallant vessel. Riding o'er the heaving wave. SECOND CHORUS. We are all here, All the ghosts that mariners fear. Bred on the waters, finding our home Every where that the billows roam ; Merry or grave, bold and free, A jovial band of spirits are we. Does not the heart of the brave man fail. And terror blanch his countenance pale. As we sit on the end of the yard and the spar, In circles of fire on the ominous air. 102 LEGENDS OP Ha ! 'tis merry to see him cower, Bold hearts shrink at our puny power, *^ That would laugh us to scorn, if they knew as we, How feeble the spirits of ocean he. Lay him down now on his hammock to rest, Steadily rises his broad firm breast. With an inspiration long and deep, Such as betokens perfect sleep. On his brow there is no care. Thought with its lines is wanting there. Muscle and sinew everywhere. Over his head the thunder may burst, The storm and the whirlwind do its worst, Nothing shall mar his quiet rest. Or the steady rise of his broad firm breast. Whisper now, brother, in his ear. And his quick pulse bounds with the throb of fear, Trouble broods on his anxious brow. And his arms are tossing to and fro. Till he starts from his rest with a wildered gleam, And looks for the ghost of his vanishing dream. All the fancies vague and strange. MONTAUK. 103 Hatching in the lonely brain, Dreaming o'er the thoughtful main, Superstition's witching train ; Where the thoughts unbidden range. Lingering in the world that is Viewless unto those in this ; x\ll the dread of powers unfelt, To which fear has ever knelt. Hanging on the thought confined. Like a nightmare of the mind ; Brooding terror, rayless gloom. Hastening to a changeless doom ; To our gallant vessel come, Joyous in their ocean home. Merry and sad, gay and grave. They own our power on the deep-sea wave. Morn slowly came to close the glorious scene ; Calm morn ; with deep blue sky, and air serene, First fruit of autumn ; yet the unquiet sea Worked in its o'erwrought bed tumultuously ; 104 LEGENDS OF MONTAUK. Like a proud charger champed its bit of foam, And rolled its sounding wave in thunder home. Farewell, Oh ocean ! many days thy roar Has been my music, now to be no more ; Yet like a lover, in my heart of hearts Thy presence goeth with me, joy imparts. I shall not always leave thee ; yet again, God willing, I will hail thee, changeless main. Farewell, Oh ocean ! would that thy great thought Upon my inner life its power had wrought ; Then up my soul, shake off the brooding dream, Life for mankind and God be now thy theme. Stand in thy lot, strike for the truth and right. Strike with full heart, God help thee in the fight ; Still through the dust and strife of manhood's years, Undimmed by all save wrong, a star appears, Around it hope, with gentle halo plays. And points and lures us on, through earth's dark days ; Till in the coming years, we hear the w^ord. And hail with joy, the " well done" of our Lord. NOTES. 1. The hills that rise beside Neapeague's lone waste. Neapeague, signifies " the water land." In violent storms the waves break over it for miles in extent. Neapeague Beach, is a long sand bar connecting Montauk with Long Island. Seen from the Nom- monock Hills it presents an appearance worthy of an eastern desert. 2. From wakening birds the early burst of song. Few even of those who are accustomed to listen to the song of the birds, are aware of the universal chorus which rises from forest, bush, and field, with the early break of day. It is the only time when all the feathered songsters unite in their hymn of praise, and its continuance is so brief that not many shake oil' the slumbers of the night in season to hsten to its music. 3. Reared its bald head o'er Nommonock's far height ! The Nommonock Hills rise out of the sandy waste of Neapeague, forming the bold and rugged outline of the western extremity of Mon- tauk. 4. Seawanhackee. One of the Indian names of Long Island. 5. Joins Seawanhackee to " the hilly land." Montauk, or Montaukett, signifies "the hilly country," a name sug- gested undoubtedly by its peculiar aspect. 14 106 NOTES. 6. Are hid with thee. Vessels, large fish, and other heavy bodies, are not unfrequently brought in during violent storms, and either partially or wholly buried under the moving sands of Neapeague. But a few years since, a com- plete skeleton of a whale was imbedded upon the southern shore. 7. The deep still valleys. The whole surface of Montauk is either valley or hill. In many places so deep and precipitous are the valleys, that they seem more Uke ravines, except for the delightful and verdant level always spread out at the bottom. 8. Beneath the shadows of " the Hither Wood." There are two tracts of woodland, known as " the Hither Woods," and " the Point Woods." Solitary and decaying trunks over all the country show that not many years since it was covered much more ex- tensively and perhaps wholly with forest. 9. Across Down Neck, we sought " the printed rock." There are two or three rocks upon Montauk, containing each a distinct and well wrought impression of the human foot. The one here alluded to, in the vicinity of the former burial plac§ of the tribe, is per- haps best known. They are supposed to have been carved as land- marks. 10. Wamponomon. The extreme eastern point of Montauk. 11. Broader and brighter like the good man's way. " The path of the just is as the shining light, that shineth more and more unto the perfect day." 12. To the deep music of the water's flow; None who have stood by the surf and listened to the murmur of NOTES. 107 the stones moved by the retiring wave, can have failed to admire the peculiar melody which seems to spring out of the water. 13. With lingering steps I sought the lonely home. With the exception of a few Indian huts, there are but four dwellings upon Montauk. 14. There is a valley fair to view. The scene of the legend of Wyandannee, is laid in the valley stretching from the head of Kongonock, northeast towards the Shag- wannock Hills. It was the actual residence of the chief, and the events recorded are historically true. 15. And sinks on his shoulders his beautiful head. When the deer is started, and feels the necessity of rapid flight, with his head thrown back upon his shoulders, and his common-place and ungamly form moulded into hnes of grace and beauty, he presents perhaps the finest picture of speed that the realms of animated nature afford. 16. Manchonock. Gardiner's Island. 17. Still away, Meshomac lies, Meshomac is the southeastern point of Shelter Island. 18. Manhassetts' warriors brave. The Manhassetts occcupied Shelter Island. 19. And the brave of Unkenchie, Unkenchie — One of the names of Shelter Island. Its more com- mon name was Manhanseckahaquashawannuck. 20. For " the Sachem's Hole," in the haunted wood. For many years " the Sachem's Hole" was shown as one of the NOTES. curious relics oi Indian history. Tradition relates that when the chief of the Manhassetts, who was brother to Wyandannee, was borne after his decease to be interred upon Montauk, those who carried the body, laid it down to rest in the woods east of Easthampton ; and that where the head of the chief lay, a hole in the ground was excavated, to which the tribe attached a peculiar sacredness. For centuries every individ- ual as he passed, carefully cleansed the hole of its dirt and rubbish, and seemed to offer over it his silent devotions. In the year 1846 the laying out of a new road absorbed forever this sacred memorial of for- mer Eiges. 21. Alas ! poor victims, The lance, like the flying-fish of the ocean, finds no place of safety from its numerous Ibes. Driven to the surface by voracious fish, it is there assailed by birds, and even in the shallow waters of the shore it has numerous enemies, of whom by no means the most insignificant is the apparently inert and tardy cuttle-fish. 22. But to the upper air returned no more ; The small Tern often dives with so much force and velocity, as to remain completely submerged for several seconds. In such cases it is not unfrequently seized by some of the numerous fish lying in wait for the lance or other prey which may chance to pass on the surface. 23. The pigmy Peeps along the waning year ; The Peeps are Wilson's Sandpiper, and receive various names along the coast, as Peeps, Knee-deeps &c. Any one who lias been by the sea in spring or fall must have noticed their peculiarly guileless and trusting look. 24. Manisses. Block Island. 25. Yet round and round his flashing eye, The power of life in the eye of the Eagle is wonderful beyond NOTES. 109 expression to those who have not witnessed it. Even when paralyzed with wounds so that it cannot move muscle or feather, the light of its eye burns with full force and brilliancy ; thought and determination seem triumphing in the unconquerable will, and when at last it fades like the cooling of burning metal, death has already supervened. 26. In the dim light of eve, " the Whooping Boy's Hollow." East of Easthampton a place is shown in the forest called the " Whooping Boy's Hollow," where the credulous hear from time to time the wild yell of an Indian apparently engaged in mortal combat with some invisible foe. 27. Joy to the music of the birds, Early in autumn, the hills and sloping sides of Montauk, are covered with the various birds of passage that follow the coast south- ward. In the account here given of them, popular and local names are adopted, rather than those known only to the scientific. 28. The Golden Eye, whose sounding pinions wake, The Golden Eye, or Whistler— so called, not as many suppose from his peculiar note, but from the shrill sound of his wings in flight. 29. Here is the burial-grovmd, A little to the west of Kongonock, in the Indian Field, is the principal burying-ground of which any traces remain. It is not proba- ble that its antiquity extends back farther than the early settlements of the whites upon Long Island. The mound and stones at the head and foot of the grave, indicate a civilized origin. Still neglect and solitude give it an appearance which naturally carries the mind back to the times when the funeral waU went up from every hill and valley. 30. The meek-eyed plover hides among the graves, 30. The Grass Plover, or Bartram's Tattler, is common upon Mon- tauk during all the summer months. From the rank grass of the In- 110 NOTES. dian Field, it rises at almost every step, and its " mellow whistle" is a soft Eind pleasing note, which every lover of nature delights to hear. 31. Behold th' imprinted stone ; Near the Burial Ground is one of the foot-prints of which men- tion is made in note 9. Near the foot-print is a perennial fountain or pool, and as nothing remarkable can be shown in a country whose history is lost, without a tradition attached to it, it is related that in the early ages of the Montauk nation, one of the tribe, whose reputation was ruined and life forfeited by some act of crime, fled to this spot, and placing his foot upon the rock, sprang forward into the valley which opened to receive him, while from the closing earth gushed forth a spring which to this day has not ceased to flow. 32. Or with triple courage steered his boat, Illi robur et aea triplex Circa pectus erat. — Horace. 33. Like Haydon's war-horse, Allusion is here made to the magnificent war-horse of Haydon descending with Curtius into the Gulf. The popular idea of the Mael- strom is of course adopted, which supposes the waters in the center of the whirlpool to make a precipitous leap downward into some un- known abyss. 34. Bring the mortals Circed with crime. The author hopes to be pardoned for the introduction of a word desi"-ned to express the blind infatuation with which the goddess was supposed to possess her followers. PENINSULA OF MONTAUK Long Island is generally considered about one hundred and twenty miles long, measuring from its western extremity near Coney Island to the point of Montauk. The island proper, however, terminates at a line drawn across it from north to south about three miles east of Amagansett. I do not mean that the whole is not enclosed within one circuit of water, but all west of this hne is of one geological form- ation which here ceases with great abruptness, and is suc- ceeded by the sandy waste of Neapeague and the rolhng hills of Montauk, seeming like portions of another country. The western portion has been often described and to it we do not purpose at present to allude. But the eastern part is comparatively little known. And though no portion of our country is richer in legendary lore, though none affords a more delightful retreat from the heat and bustle of the city during summer, and though the whole hes within a very 112 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE few hours' ride of the great emporium of our western world, still few persons are aware that a region so entirely unique and yet so pleasant in its scenery, lies within their reach. While Metacom, Sagnyn, Whathah and Thayendanagea have furnished abundant themes for the historian and the novelist, the name of Wyandannee is scarcely heard ; and though every school-boy can tell the story of the Pequots, the Mohicans, and the Tuscaroras, not many know even the land of the powerful tribes of Manhasset and Montauk. Their insular position separated them from the great contests which, while they swept their red brethren from the main land, yet left them a name on the page of history. The friendly disposition which their great leader always mani- fested toward his white neighbors prevented the scenes of savage strife which so often marked the intercourse of the two races, and by slow degrees, unheard of by the busy world, this once powerful people has melted away till of the Manhassets not one is left, and of the Montauks probably the last representative, a miserable vagabond, wanders over the hills where his fathers held undisputed sway. The east end of Long Island has, from its difficulty of access, been to most travelers a complete terra incognita. We propose therefore, in this place, to give a brief sketch of Neapeague and Montauk, their formation, natural history, historical as- sociations, and whatever else may seem to be of interest. Passing about five miles eastward from the vill^e of East Hampton, and emerging from between the high and thick hedges which have hitherto confined our view on either hand, PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 113 we find ourselves on a hill-side with a most singular pros- pect opening before us, east, south, and west. To the east stretches a long waste of sandy plain, which seems to be entirely level, though it is in fact moderately uneven. The only elevations which break the perfect uniformity of its surface are the sand-hills which, long ago, when the sand was bare, were raised by the action of the wind. The view in this direction is bounded by the first range of Montauk, the Nommonock Hills. South of us, at the distance of about half a mile, he the restless waters of the ocean, seen only at intervals between the high banks with which the beach is bordered. Between us and the sea, and stretching also a long way to the southwest, the view is like that on the east except that the surface is somewhat more uneven. This dreary reach of barren sand, which joins the "Hilly Land" of Montauk to the main body of the island, is still known by no other than the Indian name — Neapeague* As seen from the spot at which we imagine ourselves approaching it, or still more favorably from the hills of the Hither Wood and of Nommonock along its eastern border, its very aspect con- veys at once to the mind an idea of its origin and formation. It is almost impossible to resist the impression that the ex- tended plain beneath us, reaching from the ocean on the south to the equally open waters of Gardiner's Bay on the north, and bordered east and west by hills which rise abrupt- ly from its edge, was once filled with water — that in fact * Nap-p6eg. 15 114 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE Montauk was formerly an island, while between it and Sea- wanhackee the sea rolled clear and unbroken throiigh a strait five miles in width. And the more carefully we ex- amine the history and structure of this singular region, the more do we find to convince us that this opinion is the true one. The Indian name Neapeague signifies the Water Land. To be sure we cannot attach much importance to this alone, but taken in connection with other facts, it seems to show that their traditions, if we could ascertain them, would sup- port us in this belief. Another fact worthy of mention is, that the form and ex- tent of the Beach (in which term is included the whole space of Neapeague) has changed very much within the memory of man — the land encroaching continually upon the sea. On the first rising ground to the east, the commencement of the hills of Montauk, stands a house which was built a little more than fifty years since. When it was built, the line of the breakers along the shore of Neapeague ranged directly toward it, so that the foxes which then, as now, were in the habit of passing along the edge of the surf to pick up what- ever the waves might throw on shore, could be seen as far as the eye could reach. Now, the land has so far formed southward, that the breakers are not visible from the house, being hid by the sand-hills which have accumulated, and the road across Neapeague undoubtedly passes over what -was even then covered by the sea. The house stands now between twenty and thirty rods from the shore. If the PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 115 beach has increased in width thus much within fifty years, it is not difficult to understand what the same causes, operating for a longer time previous, may have accomplished. Another reason for supposing- that Neapeague is merely an inlet whose waters have been stopped by sand is, that such occurrences are by no means rare. There are many instances along our own coast, and the appearances which they present are very similar to those in the case under con- sideration. In addition to this, we have the widely different structure of Long Island and Montauk. So different indeed are they, that we can scarcely believe they were originally parts of the same formation, and it seems even strange, that islands situated so close together as they must of course have been, should be so entirely dissimilar. The general surface of Long Island, and its geological character, are well known, and it is not necessary here to allude to them ; the appear- ance of Montauk will be presently described. It is suffi- cient for our present purpose to observe, that on no part of our coast probably can we find, within the space of five miles, such a total dissimilarity as exists between the regions east and west of Neapeague. The last fact which I shall mention is one which of itself seems to settle the oceanic and recent origin of this sandy plain ; it is the occurrence of marine remains at a great dis- tance from the shore, and in such preservation as to show that the change which turned their old ocean bed to its pres- ent arid state, must have been among the more recent geolog- 116 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE ical phenomena. I will not speak of the lighter objects, as shells, &c., which are easily transported and which of course are sometimes, even now, washed far beyond their ordinary limits by the sea, as in storms it rolls nearly across the whole width of the beach. Other objects exist of much greater weight, which nothing could have placed in the spots where we find them, except the deep and rolling water of the open sea. A few years since the entire skeleton of a w^hale might be seen imbedded in the earth, more than half a mile from the present margin of the beach, and close to the border of the upland. The bones were not scattered as though they had been dragged to their situation after the removal of the flesh, but lay nearly in their relative positions, showing plain- ly that the body had been hove up by the surf, and being cov- ered with the sand, the gradual process of decay had left the bones to bleach where they lay. They were very near the surface, some of them in fact being partially exposed above it, and were of course within reach of the action of the air. But in place of being decayed, they exhibited very nearly the appearance of recent bones. This is not mentioned as an isolated fact ; others might be stated of similar character, though none in which the remains were like these in magni- tude. But the detail is unnecessary ; the fact seems un- questionable that a large part of Neapeague was formed by the action of the water. And if a part, it is difficult to un- derstand why not the whole, for we find no place in which the line of separation can be drawn. A few words of description now, may not be inappropriate. PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 117 Neapeag-ue is about six miles in length and three in width. Its general surface is but little elevated above the ocean, though along the side nearest the sea, sand-hills have been raised by the wind to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, so that in traveling across the beach the ocean is almost entire- ly hid from the view. Between these hills and through them the surf breaks so heavily in storms as sometimes to mingle its waters with those of the bay along the northern shore. In the well knovni September gale, channels were cut in this way from the ocean to the bay, so deep that a horse could scarcely cross them without swimming. These however were soon filled again with sand and all traces of them obliterated. But few trees are found on Neapeague, and those which occur are mostly on the western part and are of small size. In the same part we find numerous beach plum bushes, the Pmnus littoralis, whose fruit is much val ued and furnishes no small profit to a part of the population of Amagansett and Acabonick. Another plant which even now is of much importance, and which might easily be in- creased by cultivation to almost any extent, is the Cranberry ( Oxycoccus macrocarpus) which spreads over a large por- tion of Neapeague, and whose dehcate vines, twining amono- the grass or creeping over the sand, present at all times a most beautiful appearance, whether decked with their flow- ers of singular shape, or covered with the elegantly colored fruit. Growing in company with this, though more abun- dant on the drier parts of the beach, are vast quantities of Arbatus uva-ursi — known very generally in the vicinity as 118 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE Deer Feed. The origin of this appellation we are obliged to leave to conjecture, as there appears no evidence that the Deer ever use it as food. The plant, however, is quite com- mon, and on Neapeague particularly so, completely covering the ground in some parts, and presenting during autumn a very pleasant contrast between the dark green of the leaves and the rich color of the fruit. The northern part of the beach is penetrated by an arm of the sea, called Neapeague harbor which is too shallow to allow of any vessels but those of small draught entering it. The only access to Montauk is by the way of Neapeague, and the ride across it is always tedious in the extreme. The depth of the sand renders the progress necessarily slow, and an hour to an hour and a half after you leave the upland, finds you still dragging wearily along the beach. Nothing breaks the monotony of the scene, but the loud whistle of the Tell-tale or the harsh scream of the Tern, and almost with- out cessation your attention is claimed by a sad annoyance, common to all similar localities on our coast. It seems the very father-land of the insatiate musquito, and unless a fa- voring wind has swept them away, as is sometimes the case, they literally fill the atmosphere. One consolation, howev- er, you may always have, when they are pouring in at the sides, and when the back of your friend's coat, as he sits in front of you, is not visible, you are very soon to leave them. As you approach the end of the beach, their numbers dimin- ish, and before you have ridden a quarter of a mile upon Montauk they have left you entirely. The suddenness of PENISULA OF MONTAUK. 119 the change is always striking. They leave your carriage as though swept out by some invisible hand, and even those which have clung to objects within, speedily disappear. Rising from Neapeague, we enter upon a district at once strange and beautiful. On the left, stretching to the north- west, are the Nommonock Hills, which form the eastern border of the beach, and east of theni, rising higher still are the hills of the Hither Wood. Over these latter the road passes. Before we enter the woods, which cover their high- est part, we will pause a moment, for such a scene, we may say without fear of contradiction, can no where else be found. West of us lies the dreary waste of Neapeague, stretching in its loneliness to the distant woods and rising ground of Amagansett. Its surface seems an unbroken level, and the question of its oceanic origin is settled with- out a word. The little harbor, imbosomed in its northern half, seems (so narrow is its outlet) like a beautiful lake at our feet. The sandy shore sweeps out in a graceful curve, while a little more distant the lovely Manchonock, (Mon- shon-go-nock) rests on the quiet surfa'ce of the bay. The greater part of the space on the north is covered by the Hither Woods, buried among which we can just distin- guish the fair Quannontowunk, the first of the large fresh- water ponds, which form such a striking feature of the peninsula. Northeast and east, the woods shut out the view. Southeast, we have a very fair representation of the hills of Montauk. Of these hills it is almost impossible to convey a correct idea. Rounded and rolHng, but in many 120 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE cases quite steep and abrupt ; not arranged in ridges, but scattered apparently at random ; with no level land among them, but deep cup-shaped hollows seeming like reversed copies of the hills themselves ; bare of trees and covered only with a smooth turf, as close as though it had been shorn, their appearance is sui generis. We cannot place our- selves on any part of the extent which bears the name Mon- tauk, without fully understanding the propriety of the name. It is in truth a " Hilly Land." From Nommonockto Wam- ponomon the rolling surface is unbroken, except by the ponds and one or two small spaces which are by courtesy called plains. The highest of these hills, in the western part of the peninsula, are those on which we are standing. With one glance toward the south, where the unbroken expanse of ocean fills the view, we pass onward through the Hither Wood. The dead trunks of aged trees, some standing and some prostrate, the tokens of its former pride, give evidence that its extent was once much greater than it is now. A ride of two miles brings us again among the open hills, and along them our road winds most beautifully, now over a sum- mit, and again down till our view on every side extends but three or four rods at most, and then along the hill-side where it seems unsafe for any but a pedestrian to venture. Round- ing some low eminence, below us lies one of the thousand little ponds which dot the surface of Montauk. Its calm waters, covered with the shining leaves and brilliant flowers of the Nymphaea, or filled with the slender and delicate Decodon, are perhaps disturbed by the rushing spring of the PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 121 Teal or the Black Duck startled at our approach ; and later in the season, that sound so sweet to a sportman's ear, the loud honk of the wild goose, as he starts to his heavy flight, denotes how seldom man disturbs these solitudes. A short distance further, and we see the lovely Kongonock. Once on its bosom floated a hundred light canoes, upon its eastern border stood the main fortress of the tribe, and near at hand their largest village. Now all of these are gone, but in its name. Fort Pond, we trace a token of its former glory. It is a beautiful sheet of water, stretching almost across the island, the hills rising high and steep toward the northern end, while around its southern portion is one of those small tracts of level land to which allusion has been already made. This is commonly known as Fithian's Plain. On it stands the second of the four houses which are found on Montauk. The third house is about four miles further east, the fourth is at the Point. The land, between Fort Pond and the sea, is so low that in storms the surf sweeps across it with some violence. To prevent this a low embankment has been constructed. The water of the pond is entirely fresh and abounds w^ith White Perch, {Lahrax rafus.) On the east side of the pond, about midway from north to south, rises, very steep and abruptly from the water's edge, a rounded hill, higher than any other near it. On this hill was the great fort of the Montauks, and from it could be seen the beacon-light on Wamponomon. Commencing near its south- ern base, a deep valley stretches eastward, seeming almost like a ravine. In this valley was the royal village of Wyan- 16 122 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE dannee, which was nearly destroyed on the night of the fierce attack of Ninnigret or Janerao, when the power of the tribe was broken, the daughter of the old chief carried away cap- tive, and her husband slain. The scene of the first tale of the poem lies here and on the neighboring hills, until the tide of battle sweeps it westward. Shagwannock, (Shag-wom- mon-uck) on which the signal-fires werekindled, is four miles east, beyond the Great Pond. Culloden is north of the val- ley, bordering the bay and was quite noted a few years since as the place of capture of the negroes of the Amistad. There can be no question that two hundred years ago, in the days of the Eagle of the Montauks, a mighty people centred here, and here w^ere gathered the flower and strength of their nation. The tribes through the w^hole length of Sea- wanhackee paid their tribute here. The brave, the just, the good Wyandannee, the lover of peace, the friend of the white man, ruled a happy race. But now, alas ! we loiter in their lovely vallies, and the only sound we hear is the dis- tant murmur of the sea. The frail structure of the wig. warn has not more completely perished than the national existence of the Montauks. Where thousands lived and roamed in happiness over all these hills, now^ the most per- fect and utter loneliness exists. At the death of Wyandan- nee the g^ory of their tribe departed. Weeoncombone was far from maintaining the high renown his father had acquired, and since his day, a slow, but sure and mournful degrada- tion, has been their constant lot. By degrees they parted with their land till not a single acre of their free inheritance P E N I X S r L A OF M X T A r K , 123 can now be called their own. There are two tracts to which they stiU lay claim, and for which a yearly rent is paid them, but the title is in other hands and the rent is a sum nearly nominal. Each one of these tracts is known as the Indian Field, though that name is more commonly applied to the eastern one. The western division contains the site of Wyandannee's village, and is separated from the portion south of it, which is common to all the proprietors of Mon- tauk, by a heaxj stone wall. This wall was built by the white men at the time they bought the land, and it is a part of their contract with the Indians that it shall be maintained. It extends from Kongonock to the Great Pond, nearly east, between two and three miles. As we pass along this wall and cross the high ground southeast of Culloden, we see, at the distance of about two miles, the highest land upon Mon- tauk, the Shag^vannock Hills. They are in the eastern di- vision of the Indian Field. Between them and our station lies the largest collection of fresh water to be found on Lonsr Island ; it is the Great Pond. What name it bore among the Indians is perhaps now unknown. It is nearly three miles in length, and in its northern half, about a mile in width. Many years ago it was connected with the sea, on the north, by an inlet, but that has long been closed and the water is now perfectly fresh. While the inlet was open, fish of various kinds of course frequented it, and when by a storm the com- munication was cut off, a few of the striped Bass remained enclosed, some of them still survive and have grown to a 124 SOME ACCOUNT OP THE great size. A year or two since one drifted ashore dead, which weighed about forty pounds. From the south end of the pond to the light-house is about four miles, with scenery very similar to that which we have already passed. The Point, on which the light-house stands, was called by the Indians, Wamp6nomon, and is the only part to which on most maps the name Montauk is given. It rises nearly a hundred feet above the sea, and is crowned by the tall wViite column of the light-house, itself a hundred feet in height. The light is one of the most important on our coast ; it is kept in admirable order, and from its great elevation it sends its friendly warning far out upon the sea. Were it not for the difficulty of access, Montauk would no doubt become a place of fashionable resort, for its facilities for surf bathing are unrivaled ; but so long as a tedious ride of eighteen to twenty-five miles, across Neapeague and its own rough surface, lies between it and the nearest villages, it must remain what it is now, one of the most perfectly wild and lonely, and at the same time one of the most perfectly delightful places for a summer sojourn, that our coast can furnish. Its great and peculiar charm is the sense of entire freedom which it inspires — freedom from the conventional restraints of society — freedom from human observation — and as the almost inevitable result of it — freedom from care. On the beach or on the hills you feel that you are alone. There is nothing to recall the busy and anxious scenes of life, and even the grave and sedate man is apt to feel and act like a boy just loosed from school, and to betake himself PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 125 to skipping stones on the smooth water, or making ineffec- tual shots with the same missiles at the nimble footed Sand- erlings as they dodge in and out along the edge of the break- ers. Whatever the method you take to amuse yourself, you are sure to return at the appointed hour, for such a thing as a poor appetite is unknown on Montauk, and you seat your- self at the table, fully prepared to do justice to the abun- dant cheer provided. In a place so retired as this, the amusements common in crowded places of resort, of course cannot exist. But sadly deficient in his owti resources must a man be, who finds himself at a loss in what manner to occupy his time, or who cannot pass at least a few days here most pleasantly. From its loneliness, the great extent which is uninhabited, its insular position, and its numerous ponds, Montauk is the resort of great numbers of water birds at the different sea- sons when their migrations bring them to our shores. Dur- ing the heat of summer but few are there. One or two straggling pairs of black ducks build their nests among the marshes of Reed Pond, but almost all have passed far on to their breeding places in the North. With the waning sum- mer come the slender-billed waders in throngs. The Sand- pipers and Tattlers, the Turnstones. Plover, Godwits and Curlews are speedily followed by the Teal and other early arriving ducks, but it is not until near the end of October that the list is made complete by the coming of the geese. The chief place of resort for these is the Great Pond, which is very commonly called Goose Pond, and a sportsman coming 126 SOME ACCOUNT OF THE in sight of it for the first time, and seeing the geese covering acres of its surface, and listening to the uninterrupted music of their honking, or the loud roar of their wings as the whole throng starts to flight at once, is very apt to think that they cannot all escape him. But when he has started at the early dawn, and has lain shivering behind the Stone Wall or on Reed Pond beach, and seen ten thousand geese pass into the pond, but not one within his reach, and then when at night he has seen them all pass out, going precisely where he did not expect them, and has wended his way back in the dark- ness, cold and hungry, and found that the remainder of the company have come in from their several stations with the same tale, he will begin to think that shooting a goose on Montauk is not so easy as he at first supposed. And the next day's experience will fully confirm him in the belief. In closing this account of Montauk, a few words as to its present condition, may not be unadvisable. It is owned by an incorporated company, and is used simply as a pasture field, each proprietor being entitled to the pasturage of a certain number of cattle for every share of the stock he pos- sesses. The cattle graze in common, and as they have no protection from the inclemency of the weather, are all driven off on the approach of winter. The business of the men who inhabit the three houses — not including the one at the Point — is to take care of these cattle, though not much care is required, as there are no fences or cultivated grounds on which they can trespass. Of the Indians the race is almost extinct. Five or six PENINSULA OF MONTAUK. 127 families still remain, but they are fast decreasing and very probably the present generation is the last. The limits of Montauk were once, perhaps, somewhat greater than they are at present. On the north side near the Great Pond are the remains of a pine forest which stood on ground now covered by the sea. The roots remain buried in the sand and are visible only on the receding of the tide. In other parts also we find tokens of the encroachments of the sea, and it is not at all impossible that the point once ex- tended much further east than now, perhaps even as far as to Block Island, for the geological character of the two is very similar and very peculiar. ^ nnuiuiii LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 015 785 360 >!!'''r'iiiii^'Pir#if 1 lit ™