ri^v6 " ^ ' <^ * 0^ ^ .40^ >^^ -*^ THE MANUAL ON BARBERING, HAIRDRESSING, MANICUR ING, FACIAL MASSAGE, ELECTROLYSIS AND CHIROPODY AS TAUGHT IM I Tut »AMiRS MAI MAHIWI retPftRK TMi AmEnriCi A/ID SJlDiS mt ffljAMIAU SifIT POST BUI) fo« .|« JL| THE 1^ OF COLLEGES • ^ / / f I I \ \ \ BY A. B. MOLER PRICE $1.00 TT^Uo \~ LIBRARY of CONGRESS One Copy deceived JAN 27 1906 Cop^jri^nt tiitry OUSS (Z ^^c. No, ' ^CCPY b! COPYRIGHT 1906 BY A. B. MOIvKR C PREFACE. IN the pages following- it has been my intention to illustrate and present a set of rules that will at all times be a guide, both while learning and after completing the trades. I have tried to present a sys- tem thorough and simple, illustrating in detail the requirements for the real artist and the training necessary to familiarize them with the technical details of the profession By reason of my eight years constant teaching and my fifteen years of service in the work, I feel that no one has had a better opportunity to practice and study the work that I now lay before you. I hope to make this book of more than ordinary service, and by following its instructions closely, combined with the advantages our colleges offer, there is no chance for failures. INDEX. Page No. Part 1. Physical and Mental Requirements . . . 9 — 10 Part 2. Selection and Care of Tools 11 — 23 Part 3. Honing- and Stropping . 24 — 29 Part 4. Shaving- 29—39 Part 5. Hair Cutting- 39—49 Part 6. Beard Trimming 5'^— 54 Part 7. Shampoo, Miscellaneous 55 — 69 Parts. Men's Facial Massag^e 70—112 BOOK IT. Ivadies' Hairdressing- 7 Furniture and Arrang-ement of Establishments. 9 — 16 Selection and Care of Tools 16 — 21 Combing-, Dressing-, Shampooing, etc 21 — 42 Marcel Wave 42—40 Dyeing-, Bleaching-, Etc 46 — 58 Scalp Massag-e , 58 — 64 Formulas and Price List 64 — 67 Hair Work 67—91 Manicuring 91 — 104 Facial Massage 104—126 Electrolysis 126—141 Chiropody 141—162 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. PART I. PHYSICAL AND ME^NTAL REQUIREMENTS OF THE BARBER. In considering- the idea of becoming- a barber, the first question that presents itself is: What are the requirements necessary in order to insure success after laboring- at this work? Will my nervous sys- tem permit of handling- the razor? Will the nature of work I have done in the past bar me from this profession? Are my mental propensities such thatthey will allow me to wait upon others with patience and with solicitude for their welfare? The question is often asked by those preparing- to take up the work: "Will I make a barber?" There is but one answer to this, and that is, have you patience and energy to practice diligently at the work until you haye thor- oughly mastered it, providing- you have at your dis- posal the opportunity for constant practice and the assistance of skillful instructors? There is no part of the barber trade that is impos- 10 THE BARBERS' MANUAI^. sible for anyone with ordinary ability . No man is too nervous to take up this trade as it is part of your education while a student to overcome your nervous temperament. Proper practice (of which we shall Pfive you a description in the following pages) is sure to overcome all disadvantages in this line, but we would advise that no person take up this work who has not first made up his mind to become a public servant, to be patient and painstaking with custo- mers, and to be always pleasant and agreeable. This is not a work that requires any special adapt- ation, but like every other trade that is mechanical, it is one that requires practice. Some will tell you that you never can become a barber if you are not gifted with particular talents, but it has been demon strated that the most awkward beginners often make the most graceful graduates. Grace and ease of mo- tion are acquired by the continued using of certain muscles. Good taste has much to do with proper hair cutting- and the different styles of this work must necessarily be a study. No man is naturally gifted with ability to trim hair gracefully, and each one must practice and study this work alike. While some are more apt and painstaking than others, every one can follow examples and directions laid down by instructors. Thus you see no person of sound mind and ordinary THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 11 ability need exclude themselves from this trade if they are willing- to apply themselves to the work. Carelessness has no place in barber business, and no one will succeed either in business for himself or as a journeyman, who is not both caerfulwith his own appearance as well as that of his shop. PART II. SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. Good tools in every mechanical trade have much to do with the tradesman's success. This is particu- larly true of the Barber Trade. No one can be a first-class workman without first-class tools kept in proper order. We too often find tradesmen trying to apply their skill with tools wholly unfit for their work. RAZORS. In the selection of a Barber's Outfit one of the most essential things is the Razor. Many times a perfect razor is condemned by the workman who has not given it a satisfactory trial or honed it down to a perfect edge. New razors are never honed in perfect condition, and every razor when first purchased 12 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. should be g-iven at least a week's trial before being condemned. No one can tell perfect steel from the looks of it unless it has been burned in grinding, which would cause it to show black spots, such spots as we sometimes find in a chisel or plow shear. In selecting a razor, as far as the steel is concerned, this is the only thing to look for. You will never be able to discoyer whether your razor is too soft or too hard from shaying and honing it, as there are too many conditions which afiFect a razor while in pro cess of sharpening. The fact that a razor sharpens slowly or that it takes time to bring it to an edge is no indication that the steel is hard or soft, one reason being a razor may have but little concave and therefore so much of the blade strikes the hone that it naturally cuts away slowly. It is an easy matter, however, to detect good or poor workmanship in the manufacture of this tool. A full concave razor is one that is hollowed out in such a manner as to leave the thinnest part of the blade between the back of the razor and the edge- This leaves a bulge or thicker part between the edge and the thinner portion of the razor, and can be detected by rubbing with finger and thumb down the sides of the blade as shown in the cut. A half and three-quarter concave have less of a ' oUow grind as described. The full concave is the SIZES. % T CONCAVES. Full Three-fourths Half concavePIain grind POINTS. Squa i re point. Hollow point. Dutch point. Irish point. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 13 most expensive style of grinding' we have, and is only used in a high grade razor. It is the most desirable TESTING A CONCAVE. as it lightens the weight of the blade according to the width of it, and requires less honing and stropping to vsharpen the same. r a selecting tools never stick to certain brands simply because they have been recommended, for nearly every well known razor has cheap imitations. The five-eight size is ordinarily the most convenient and, although it is a little larger than most barbers prefer, the razor always grows smaller instead of 14 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. larger, and it is best to guard against getting them too small to begin with. SHEiARS. The quality of shears can be tested by a close ex- amination of the blades. In the cheaper qualities, or what is known as the steel laid, only a small por- tion of the blade is solid steel. This quality of shears is usually heavier in proportion to the length than those of the grade known as full steel. In nearly every cheap grade of shears, by examining the inside of the blades, you will see a different oolor in the metal at the point the iron and steel are welded together. A steel laid shear, as a rule, gives good ser- vice as long as it lasts, but it is not as durable as one made entirely of steel. The full steel shear usu- ally has thin, narrow blades that are sprung in such a shape that when the shears are closed the two blades only touch each other at the point. A non- experienced man is often liable to mistake this as a flaw, but a shear, in order to cut at the point, must have the spring or set. The patent burr fasteners as a rule are of little advantage, as a shear must be ground and set at intervals during its service. Never try to sharpen your own shears or tighten the screws as in this way you are apt to spring the blades and make them entirely useless-, it costs but THE GENUINE IMPORTED RAZOR. THE CHEAP IMITATION. FULL STEEL, FRENCH PATTERN. STEEL LAID, NICKLE HANDLE. CHEAPER GRADE, JAPAN HANDLE. THE BARBERS' MAKUAL,. IS a small amount to have your shears well ground, and well ground shears are as essential to good work as a properly ground razor Never give your shears to the street grinders, nor try them on any shear sharp- ening device. When a shear becomes too smooth, it can sometimes be wired a trifle by rubbing it over a rough hone or piece of steel, but this should not be praticed often. The blades must be roughed to a certain extent in order to keep the hair from slipping out when the blades come together. The cheaper grades of shears, as a rule have the black japanned handles, while the higher grades are nickel handled and highly polished. A seven, seven and one-half and eight inch shear are the most con- venient sizes for barbers' use. HONES. There are many different grades and qualities of hones, and no doubt the opinion of barbers varies in. regard to this article more than in regard to any other tool in the barber's kit. The German Water Hone is the oldest style, or the first razor hone used. They still are considered by many to be the best hone in the market. There is certainly nothing that will compare with them for the apprentice, as they cut 16 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. slow and neyer overhone, as does the coi,xser and faster cutting stones. It usually requires a little more time to cut a razor to an edge on this stone, but once to an edg-e it keeps it in the same condition without damaging- the blade. In using the oil or lather hone, more care should be taken to prevent "overhoning," for when the razor is honed to an edge, it will, with more honing, crumble or break away to what is known as the wire edge. The lather hones are of many different qualities and it is something of a gamble to get a perfect hone. They vary greatly in prices according to quality. The Swatty, the same as the lather stone, is fast cutting, and is probably ^.he hardest hone to work with although it brings a razor to an edge quickly. An apprentice would seldom be successful with this style of hone. They are highly recommended by the expert or old barber, but should never be recom- mended to a beginner. STROPS. Strops should always be used in pairs, canvas and leather. The canvas is the one you first apply to the razor and finish it with a smooth leather strop* Razors in constant stropping, on a leather strop be- come too smooth, and require a certain amount of use 'if' T*l WATER OIL OR LATHER SWATY SHELL AND CANVAS, PADDr:D HANDLE. HORSE HIDE AND CANVAS PATENT SWIVEL. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. on the canvas. This is in order to roug-hen or draw out the edg-e, and when properly stropped they re- quire less honing-. The higher grade of canyas strop is made of seamless hose, and can be used on either side. You should be careful to keep canvas strops dry as dampness swells the grain and roughens the strop. The better quality is usually made of linen the smooth and tightly woven quality. The cheaper grades are sometimes made of canvas, and are known as the flat web. They are of a single thickness, less durable and can be used only on one side. Some cheaper grades are also made of cotton. Canvas strops in constant use gather dust and grit which should be cleaned off by applying a little lather and immedi- ately scraping it off with the blade of the shear, or a similar blunt instrument. Grit on a canvas strop will do much damage to a razor, and should be watched for closely. In breaking in a new strop, the grain should first be filled with beeswax or soap, and this should be rubbed in thoroughly with a bottle or a similar instrument. There is considerable labor at- tached to preparing,' a pair of strops. In selecting a leather strop, Russia leather is usu- ally most desirable, although the most expensiye, and is a tough, thick, serviceable leather. It is usually told by the smell, and by the grain on the back of the strop It requires some time to prepare a Rus- 18 THE BARBERS' MANUAI*. sian leather strop for service, but when once broken in, it will last a lifetime, and is not easy to cut. The strop should be prepared by putting- thick lather on the surface, and rubbing- it in well, in the same man- ner as the canvas strop. From five to ten minutes should be spent on a Russia leather strop every day for two or three weeks. The labor required in preparing- this strop is worth more than the strop itself. Many old barbers possess strops worth from $5.00 to $25.00. A Russia leather improves with age_ A pig- skin strop is of the same nature, and should be broken in in the same way; it is most favored by some barbers, and although not quite as durable, it is more easily prepared. These strops are never made in cheap qualities, there being- but two grades, medium and heavy. The horsehide strop is made of many different qualities, and sells at different prices. The shell, or horsetail, is probably the best of this class. It is always smooth, never requires finishing or breaking in, and is of a thinner or lighter grade. This is the most durable of horsehide strops. The other quali- ties or cheaper g-rades are of a softer material, and usually draw or hang- to the razor in stropping-. This quality of strop usually requires more work to put a razor in condition, and they are less service- HIGH GKADE, IMPROVED SPRING. CHEAPER GRADE, OLD STYLE SPRING. THE BARBERS" MANUAL. 19 able. They are easily cut and short lived. When they once begin to work rough, there .i" no remedy for them. CLIPPEiRS. Of the strictly high grade clippers there are but few brands to select from. Clippers are constantly changing and being improved upon, and like all classes of machinery, they soon become old style. Among the latest improvements there is one called the "pull spring." It is prompt in action, strong and serviceable, and can be adjusted to most any hand. This spring is found in but two brands of clippers. The adjusting blade made to cut different lengths is of little or no use, for its work is ragged and gives the hair the appearance of three or four weeks' growth. The only care that is necessary for this grade of clippers is that they should be kept well oiled and when once properly adjusted, should be left in that state. It is bad policy to readjust the machine, except when it must be taken apart and cleaned. The plates should be wiped off about once a month, or should be washed out without readjust- ing by working kerosene through them. Sewing ma- chine or bicycle oil is the best to use. This grade of machine can be made to cut two lengths by sim- 30 THE BARBERS- MANUAIv. ply turning- it over iti the hand and using- it for the neck or "00" clipper. This saves the necessity of two pair of clippers. Among- the cheaper g-rades the brands are numer- ous and all about the same quality. Some have the spring-s in the handles, others have the concealed spring in the blades. They are so constructed that they will cut but one length, and in doing- the nicer part of the work it would be necessary to have a short or an "0" clipper besides the regulation length of an eigth inch. These clippers like the higher grade, should be thoroughly cleaned and oiled about once a month, or according to the amount of work being done. COMBS. In the selection of combs, the "hand made" bone comb is preferable; It should be a tapering comb of medium size, and one that can be well handled in long- or short hair. A neck comb is usually con- sidered unnecessary where the comb is tapered from a coarser to finer teeth. Aluminum combs are considered by some the most convenient, but there is an objection to this style of comb, as the teeth often come in contact with the blade of your shears. o o « o w NiiJ O u « M o u o t-( o o O K m <: « RUBBKR FERRULE. CAMEL HAIR. NECK DUSTER FOR BRUSHING LOOSE HAIR AFTER CUTTING. THE BARBERS, MANUAL. ^ brushes are those whose bristles are set in vulcanized rubber. The soft camel hair brush is of no seryice to the barber as it becomes too soft when in con- stant use. leather brushes as well as cups should be thor- oug^hly rinsed before or after each shave. STERILIZING AND ANTISEPTIC SOLUTIONS. Sterilizing- your razor is a very important feature in the barber business, also the use of antiseptics for your brushes, cups and strops. In this care of tools, much neg-lect has been shown among" past members of the fraternity, oftentimes with disastrous results. Your patronag^e can be increased by strict attention to this one important feature. This process should be resorted to as often as seems necessary. After working oyer a sore face, or what we may term a syphilitic subject, wash your hands in a mild solution of Bichloride of Mercury. If you have no steam sterilizer, your razors can be dipped or boiled without injury to them in the same solution. Steam sterilizers are much preferable and can be secured as cheap as 75 cen.s. Plac6 your mugs, lather brushes and hair brushes in water at a temperature of a bout 150 degrees. Strops also may be treated the same way and afterwards oiled with carbonized vase- line. Strops will need this process very seldom. 24 THIS BARBERS' MANUAL. PART III. HONING AND STROPPING. The sequel to a barber's success, as far as shaving" is concerned, lies in honing" and stropping- the razor. This is not a g^reat task when proper instructions are given or when care is taken to hone at the proper time or strop sufficiently while the razor is in use. No deep art or mystery lies in this part of the profes- sion as miny barbers who have never been properly taught are sometimes led to suppose. Many work- mei, good in every other part of the work, sel- dom haye a sharp razor, and again, no barber has be- come so proficient that at all times he has his razo^ sharp. There are so many different conditions of atmosphere, heat and cold, etc., which affect the edge of the razor that it is practically an impossibility to keep one razor always in condition, but there can be no plausible excuse for a man with two or three razors not having one of them always with a keen edge. HONING. No matter what hone is used, honing is always done in the same way and the same method of testing the THE BARBERS' MANUALc 25 edge is applied, but with each style of hone the edg-e has an entirely different feeling- and it is always best to become accustomed to one stone and learn the peculiarities of its work. Never try to hone a razor with a nick in it, nor with an extremely blunt edge, as it is impossible to keep a smooth, straight edge when it is necessary to cut the razor down to any extent. Razors in this condition should always be HONING. sent to the grinder with instructions as to what style af g-rind or concave is required. In beginning your work, tirst prepare your hone. In using- the water hone see that it is perfectly clean and free from dirt or grease, then wet the rubber with moderately warm water, also see that the hone is not extremely cold or hot, as the temperature will haye much to do in drawing out or extending the edge 26 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. of the blade. Prepare your hone with a thick grit or lather by rubbing the hone proper with the rub- ber and always keeping it moist. Lay the razor perfectly flat on the hone and draw toward the edge, diagonally from the heel to the point as shown in cut. Turn the razor on the back without lifting it from the hone and slide into position for the other side. Hold the razor with the first finger on the shank of the blade in such a way as to turn it freely in the hand and so that the entire length of the blade will be honed alike. It will require some practice to become handy in turning the razor. Work slowly and with some old useless razor until you have mastered the stroke. A slight mistake on the hone could easily ruin a high grade razor. Testing the edge of a razor is done by wetting the thumb or finger nail and drawing the edge of the razor over the thumb or nail with just enough heft to allow it to cut in or slide over the nail. If the razor has a blunt thick edge, it will slide over the nail without cutting. This will signify that it needs more honing to bring it to the proper condition. If the razor cuts into the nail irregularly with a rough, grating feeling this signifies that the razor has a rough, wiry edge and requires more honing. The razor, when in perfect condition, will draw into the »^ail with the keen smooth edge. You cannot be de- TESTING EDGE AFTER HONING. TESTING EDGE AFTER STROPPING. STROPPING. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. Kf ceived in this test when you become sufficiently ac- quainted with the edge to detect the different feeling-s. This test should be used only in honing- and not in stropping-, as after the razor is stropped, it has an en- tirely different feeling and would slide over the nail as though greased. In using the swatty or lather hone, mix a thick lather and apply to the hone, always keeping it well moistened with the substance. It is not to be supposed that you will become a skillful honer without the necessary practice and in- struction, and much depends on the stropping after leaving the hone, A razor will not always take the same style of an edge. As stated, it sometimes de- pends on the atmosphere or heat and cold. If diffi- culty is met with in getting the required edge, it oftentimes is a benefit to lay the razor by for a short time and allow the temperature to make the change. At times five minutes work will do more for you in sharpening a razor than an hour at other times. Thus you will see no man is always master of this art. STROPPING. After a razor is properly honed it should be stropped yery little, if any, on the canvas strop. If 2& THE BARBERS' MANUAL. a razor seems to haye taken too smooth an edg^e, it can be roughed a little with the canvas strop and then smoothed to the proper condition on the leather, or if a razor seems to be left a little too rough by the hone it sometimes can be stropped to a better condi- tion on the canyas. The main object being" to bring it to the keen, vet smooth edge. A razor can be smooth, and not keen and sharp or can be too jmooth, but never too sharp. Every barber has his pet razor, for with this par- ticular one he has learned the requirements in hon- ing" and stropping". Considerable practice is necessary to become easy and graceful in stropping". The razor should be held in such a way as to allow it to turn in the hand easily and always be wiped over the strop perfectly flat with back of blade as well as edge placed tight on the leather, Turn it on the back without lifting it from the strop, and as in honing, do this work slowly and carefully until you have become proficient in the motion. The best class of barbers never try to play tunes with their razor and strops as is often seen among those who care more for makine: a show than for the edge of the razor. More stropping is necessary with a freshly honed razor than one that has shaved a half dozen beards. A razor just off from the hone is usually a little rough and irritating to the face and should be first used on THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 29 a ligrlit beard. It is poor policy for a barber to hone up all of his razors at once, or eveti more than one at a time, for it is necessary to have at least one razor always ready for any sort of beard that comcs in. It is sometimes good policy for a barber to have a strop filled with emery flour or razor paste. When the edgies become too smooth and you have no time for honing, a few strokes on the coarse strop will draw out the blunt edge. This should not be prac- ticed often, howeyer, and only with a razor that has shaved forty or fifty men without honing. Razors have been known to shave 500 men with stropping only and again the same razor would not hold an edge for a half dozen beards. It is not always the fault of the barber. PART IV. SHAVING. Shaving is an art. Proficiency in this work cannot be obtained without much practice, and while you will be benefitted much by following these rules, prac- tical demonstration is the most essential guide. In preparing a customer for a shave, first thor- ughly rinse the brush and cup with warm water to prevent the spreading of disease. A thick, creamy 30 THE BARBERS' MANUA.L. lather should be mixed, just stiff enough to be handled nicely on the face. If left too thin, it is apt to run down the neck or on to the collar. Many barbers say it is impossible to learn even how to lather in the length of time our College proposes to teach the trade, and it is very true that some men do not learn this work well. While there is no skill to be dis- played in lathering, a barber must always be careful and painstaking in this work. The barber that will not be thoughtful enough to do this work should never need expect to claim custom, as this is the first impression upon the customer. The face should be lathered by applying the brush in a circular mo- tion, which allows the brush to brew lather of itself. The beginner is apt to handle the lather brush as the painter does the paint brush. Care must be taken not to allow the lather to work into the mouth, nose or ears. After applying the lather, rub it lightly into the beard, and remember that whether the beard be hard or soft, light rubbing answers the same purpose. It will be your first impression, that if the beard is thick and heavy, it will require hard rubbing. Bear In mind that every man's face is tender and should be handled carefully. The beard should be rubbed from two to ten mit utes, according to the growth of hair, Where the THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 3J beard is dirty and full of g-rit, after thoroug-hly rub- bing- it, the lather should be wiped off with a wet towel and a new coat of lather applied. This will only be necessary in extreme cases. Always see that your customer is in an easy, com- LATHERING. fortable position in the chair, and do not lower the head rest enoug-h to cramp the person's neck. The skin must be always left loose so that it c^*_ redrawn in any position required while under the razor. Do not make the mistake of stropping your razor THE BARBERS' MANUAL. when you have nothing- else to do, thinking- it will be leady for use when you have prepared the beard. A razor must always be stropped just before using- it. BACK HAND. The philosophy of this is, the friction in stropping- heats the steel and expands it, leaving a smoother THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 33 edge than the blade naturally has when cool. While the heat g-iven the razor is not the only benefit, it explains the theory of stropping- just before shaving. Always begin the shave on the right hand side, draw the razor with a slanting stroke, as shown in cut. The razor must be handled in such a manner as to allow it to saw across the beard instead of pulling FREE HAND. straight. This motion is what makes shaving an art. The stroke will be found very difficult for a be- ginner, but by studying this motion while practicing^ much time will be saved. After the side of the face has been shaved as far as the corner of the mouth, it is necessary to use what we call the back handed 34 THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. StiOke jt'his is done by turning- the hand as shown in cut, and is considered more difficult than the free arm motion. In order to master this, the first exer- cise is to throw the elbow up nearly eyen with the shoulder, and turn the back of the hand directly from you. The mistake is usually made of crowding the elbow down close to the side, or allowing" the arm to rest on the customer's chest, thus permitting the razor to drag instead of being carried with a gliding stroke from point to heel. This stroke is used on the side of the chin, and with the same motion run down to the point of the chin, taking off the balance of the beard as low as the jaw bone. From this point the free arm motion is used ag-ain on the side of the neck as far down as the grain runs. Care must be taken not to allow the razor to g^o against the grain. In shaving- the lower part of the neck, it will be necessary for you to step around behind your chair and draw the skin up with the thumb and down with the fingers as shown in the cut, so that it will be perfectly tight on the part of the neck which is being shaved. You are apt to make a mistake by allowing- your fingers to become damp and slippery, and haye difficulty in drawing- the skin tight under your hand. Be sure that your fingers are always dry, and the face shaved clean as far as you go, not allowing bits of lather to remain scattered over the shaved portion of the face. FOLLOWING THE GRAIN DOWN. BACK HAND, LEFT SIDE. ACROSS CHIN. UNDER LIP. SECOND TIME OVER. THE BARBERS, MANUA~ , 35 When the side of the face nearest you has been shaved, turn the head on the head rest by lifting- it from underneath, and not pushing- it over as though handling" a block of wood. In shaving- the upper part of the face on the opposite side, it is necessary to use the back handed motion and change to the free handed stroke in shaving the chin. When this is completed, turn the face straight up, shaving directly across the chin with the diagonal stroke, then shave underneath as far down as the grain of the hair runs. Next, turn the face toward jou and shave the oppo- site side of the neck down with the back handed stroke keeping with the g-rain. Shave the lower part of the neck as was done on the opposite side. This part of the shave is the most particular and should be handled with the most care. After shaving one side of the face, the razor should be restropped, or even oftener if it is not giving sat- isfaction. It is well to ask your customer if the razor hurts the face, as a barber is never sure just what satisfaction his work is givi^ig. A razor might be cutting the beard nicely, but still rough enough tc irritate the face, and this might not be detected by the workman . Aftercompleting the shave the first time over, strop again. In shaving- the second time over, with a ten der face, it is best to take the towel and wash the 36 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. face, g-etting" all the soap oif the skin in order to pre- vent irritation. This will be necessary only with ten- der faces. Wet the hand by using- water bottle as HOI^DING THE RAZOR AND WATER BOTTI^E. shown in cut. Wet one side of the face at a time with your hand and shave the second time oyer side ways THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 37 to the grain, and not directly ag^ainst it as many bar- bers have been taught to do. Never, under any circum- stances, shave up under the jaw bone against the g-rain as few faces can stand this torture when they indulge in a shave of tener than once or twice a week. This work can be done without any extreme pain on ordinary faces, but it soon leads to irritation, in- grown hairs and eruptions of the skin. It is the custom of most men who shave eyery day or every other day to shave but once over. Few men want a close shave, but every man wants it smooth and even. Do not leave rough patches, and do as little work as possible the second time over. Many ways are in vogue for washing- and drying the face after the shave. The best care that can be taken of the tender face is to apply two or three hot towels. Fold the towels in such a way that they can be drawn over the face and allowed to remain and steam to soak the face. This removes all inflammation and unpleasant feeling. After washing the face includ- ing- the forehead and eyes, in this manner, apply either bay rum or witch hazel, never both Bay rum will smart while witch hazel is cooling and soothing. The customer should always have his choice of cos- metics. Dry the face by first placing- towel oyer the face and rubbing the hands over the towel, then take up the towel and dry the face as you would in wip- 38 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. ing^ your own face, using- care that the towel is never wiped over the face against the grain. Be cautious in drying- around the ears and corners of the mouth and be sure to dry the entire face thoroughly before fanning it to prevent chapping. Apply magnesia or powder either by rubbing the towel over the lump of magnesia and applying- to the face or by using the powder can. Sifter top can is usually preferable, then wipe the powder all off from the face as it is only applied to give it a smooth feeling- and to pre- vent a glossy appearance of the skin. This concludes the shave proper, but after setting- Ihe custcner up in the chair complete your work by combing the hair, curling the mustache, if required, and such details as the customer may request. Many old barbers make the mistake of not using g-ood judgment in combing. Observe the style your customer has been combed before, and try and comb the hair as nearly like it as possible. By studying these rules carefully much time can be saved in a term of schooling, but some study will be necessary to get the full benefit of them. THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. 39 PART V. HAIR-CUTTING. Skill in hair-cuttingf is attained by a study of styles and by an opportunity for constant practice. No one can become a skillful hair-cutter without con- stant attention to the work and there must be an opportunity for constant practice. Here is where the greatest disadvantage is found in theold style barber shop apprenticeship. Men who pay for a good hair- cut or a shave, naturally object to being made sub- jects tor a novice to practice upon, consequently the student who has no one to practice upon has no chance for advancement. It usually requires from two to three years to be- come proficient in this work. However, the same thing can be learned in two or three months with the proper opportunities before you. No one can learn this work or any part of it by seeing it done. \t is necessary to apply yourself to this work constantly until you have thoroughly mastered the different styles, and the art of handling the shears and comb have become a second nature to you. There can be 40 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. as much genius displayed in the work as in the work of the sculptor or the painter. Expression can be displayed on the back of the head as well as in the face. As the sculptor moulds here and there for expression and character, so a slig^ht touch with the shears and comb in the proper place, will display graceful or awkward outlines. It is the barber, but not the clothes that make the man. No amount of reading- or study will reveal this art, althoug-h you will be helped by suggestions and examples per- formed before you. Observe closely the fashion plates and directions that follow. Probably the mos* simple of all hair-cuts is the "full crown." This style is ordinarily intended lor boys from ten to fifteen years old, but should be given whenever r^^^nested. It is made by using the clippers up to the crown of the head, thus leaving only the top of the head un- dipped. Some experience is necessary in order to handle clippers properly. The greatest difficulty will be in allowing the handles the full stroke, for the ap- prentice, in nearly every instance, cramps his hand and thereby allows the machine only about half of its action. Be sure that it is given the full stroke to prevent clogging of the hair. After the clipper work is completed, then trim the edge which remains, after the use of the machine, so THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 41 that it is impossible to see how high the clippers were used. After the edges have been evenly trimmed, cut the top of the hair between the fingers as shown in diagram. With this style, hair must be left long- est in front, and should gradually taper down to the short hair at the crown and on the sides of the head. In making the outlines of the haircut, which is the last and most noticeable part of your work, care must be taken to make the lines graceful. You should begin at the sifle of the head and in front of the ear and cut either straight down the back of the neck, on each side, or cut around as the customer desires. Always ask your customer which style he prefers. The outline made by the points of the shears signifies the line to which you should shave, and this outline should be made true and even. HALF CROWN. For the style known as the half crown cut, clippers should be used only half way to the crown of the head or a little above the ears. The line left by the clippers should be straight around and not be allowed to run down at the back of the head, as many barbers do with this style of cut. After completing the clip- per work, trim the remaining edges in the same manner as in the full crown cut, giving a gradual tapei to the hair, and so cutting out the clipper mark that it cannot be noticed how high the clippers were 42 THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. used. The top of the hair should be cut in the same manner as in the crown cut, but the proper propor- tion must be maintained. It will be necessary to TRIMMING FULL CROWN. leaye tne hair a little longer than in the full crown cut. The usual mistake in this style is in leaving the hair too bunchy at the crown making it appear THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 43 i>trLI. CROWN COMPLETED. 44 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. HALF CKOWN CUT. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 4r^ as thoug-h a wig had been placed on too of the head. Study the fashion plate for this style. HAIR TRIM. The style that is known as the trim may be di- vided into three lengths, the short, the medium and the long- trim. All are cut the same, but the length of the hair should be gauged according to the custom- er's taste. For this style, clippers are not used at all. It is best to begin on the side of the head and not at the back as many barbers do. The advantag^e of beginning- on a side and working around is, that it saves time and extra work. Hair should always be shortest at the lower edge and gradually taper to the longer hair at the crown of the head. The ordidary or medium length is the style worn by most men nowadays, and in this cut it is necessary to become the most proficient. Cut with the shears and comb about two-thirds of the way to the crown. After you have grone clear around the head, begin where you left off with the shears and comb, and cut through the fingers from the front toward the back. Care should be taken not to g-et the hair too short at the crown. This is apt to happen unless you take particular pains to avoid it. After haying gon^ over the top of the head do not make the mistake of cut- ting around the forehead the same as with ^ woman's 46 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. bangs- The ends of the hair at the forehead should ouiy ce trimmed slightly, comb all the hair to one side. This will allow the ends of the hair to remain in the position the hair will be when parted. Trim both ^ides alike so that the hair can be parted any- where without leaving ragged edges on either side. It is often the case that barbers part the hair before trimming the ends. Avoid making this ^nistake, for if both sides are not trimmed exactly alike, the next time the hair is parted, if it is not parted in exactly the same place, ragged ends will appear on one side or the other. In making the outline, you will find the work for this style of hair-cut more difficult than with the crown or half crown cut. COLLEGE CUT. Comb the hair from the crown evenly in all direc- tions, making a false crown at the center of the head. Trim the lower part of the hair the same as outlin- ing for the ordinary or medium trim. Keep combing and trimming the edge until it is perfectly even, and shows no ragged edge. This will allow the hair, as it continues to grow, to have a massive or bulky ap- pearance, and will leave it round and smooth, with no marks of the shears to show. By trimming the lower edges you shorten the hair underneath, giving THK BAKBKRS' MANUAI,. 47 COI,I,«GE CUT— SIDE VIEW. 48 THE BARBERS' MANUAIy. COLIvEGE CUT— BACK VIEW. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 49 the effects as shown in the cuts on pages 47 and 48. It may be trimmed with the Eng-lish bang- as shown in the side view or as the ordinary trim. The hair, when combed straight down from the forehead, must be trimmed even with the lower edge. POMPADOUR HAIR-CUT. This style is little worn now, but no barber can call himself proficient without having mastered this par- ticular style. There was a time when it was consid- ered the most difficult of all cuts, but it is now con- sidered as easy as any. The hair should be clipped the same as in the crown cut, then wet the brush and comb the hair straight up, using the comb just ahead of the brush. This will prevent the hair from ly- ing down flat and will put it in a proper position to be trimmed. Trim the edges left by the clippers, but avoid getting deep into the hair. After the edges are trimmed on both sides, start directly in the middle in front, and work back. In this way you have a better line to be guided by for the balance of the trim. Your mistakes will be in trimming off too much of the sides, thereby making it round. See that the hair has a gradual slope from the front back to the crown; Use the same care i< outlining a* with the other style. POMPADOUR. child's trim with bangs. CHILD S DUTCH CUT. 50 THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. PART VI. BEARD TRIMMING. VAN DYKE BEARD. In most cases, the beard is trimmed short, using the clippers to the corners of the mouth, leaving only the chin undipped. Next trim with the shears, then comb the edge of the beard which remains after the use of the clipper and gradually work to a point, funnel shaped at the point of the chin. Great care must be taken to have the work smooth underneath, the chin, so that the beard, when the head is in an up- right position, will show no ragged edges at the bottom. You should always be cautious about trim- ming near the edge of the upper lip, as the hair usual- ly grows thin on that part of the face, and a verj' little trimming will show the bare spots. In order to have the points exactly in the center it ic necessary to trim on both sides, first on the one and then on the other, and you must not finish one side before beginning on the other. In case the customer does ./ot want the side of the face and neck clipped, trim closely with the shears, leaving the same length THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 51 THK VAN DYKE BEARD. 52 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. of beard andg-iviugf no proportion until you reach the corner of the mouth, then trim it to a point the same as when clippers are used. This is a business or pro- fessional man's beard trim, often called the "Napo- leon," and you should be cautious in adapting- it for the minister or for elderly gentlemen. THE PARTED BEARD. This style of beards is little worn nowadays, but those who possess a parted beard like those who wear the pompadour hair-cut, are particular about its ap- pearance. It is one of the most difficult trims in the barber business. The beard should first be parted in the center and combed out toward each side. The hair should then be trimmed closely on the neck either with the shears or with the clippers, and gradually taper to the longer hair on the sides of the face. This beard is directly opposite to the Van Dyke and is meant to broaden the expression of the face and not to lengthen it. The beard on the side of the face should usually be trimmed down until it is about half an inch long until near the chin, where it should grow longer as in the cut In any style of beard trim, care must be taken to have the hair trimmed closely on the neck. More work is necessary on this style of trim than the ordinary hair-cut, and this is a part of the work THE BARBERS' MANUAL. S3 THE PARTED BEARD. 54 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. that you receive the least practice on. Few barbers are expert beard trimmers. The CoUeg^e offers a splendid opportunity for practice in this work as well as all others. There are many other styles of wearing the beard, such as the "Mutton Chops,'* chin whiskers, etc. No skill is required in trimming- these, and the only care necessary must be displayed in blocking- out a new beard, getting both sides even and always following the directions of your customer, as there are as many styles in blocking out whiskers as you hav<» customers to wait upon. THE BARBERS, MANUAL. PART VII. 55 SHAMPOO. There are various methods of shampooing-, al- though all are practically the same in the end, the only difference being- in the substance or material used in giying- the shampoo. The material most fayored now is shampoo jelly. It is a substance which foams readily, is mild, cleansing, and health- ful to the scalp. In preparing for the shampoo, place a towel above % THE BARBERS' MANUAL. the hair cloth, both in front and back; to prever' wetting- the customers collar and clothes. About . thimbleful of the shampoo jellj' is sufficient for an or- dinary shampoo. Take the shampoo jelly in the left hand and the water bottle in the right hand, apply water and rub the shampoo into the hair. This pro- duces a liffht lather, and when sufficient water has been used to chang-e the jelly to a lather, set the bottle down and rub with both hands as in cut. Avoid rub- bing- with both hands in the same direction at the same time as this would be uncomfortable for the cus- tomer. Let each hand operate opposite to the other Rub with the balls of the fing-ers and do not scratch the scalp with the fing-er nails. Rub hard or lig-ht as suits the customer, usually rubbing- the scalp about five or ten minutes, then prepare the shampoo stand and bowl. Regulate the temperature of the water before get- ting- your customer over to the shampoo bowl. Where you have no water connections procure a suf- ficient amount of water at the proper temperature (luke warm) in some convenient dish in order to pour over the head. When everything- is in readiness, have your r-'stomer step from the chair to the shampoo stand, and force him to lean over far enoug-b so that the water will not run down his neck, while washing- the lather from his head. See that the soap is thor- THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57 DUghly rinsed from the hair and that the scalp is well cleansed. Avoid letting your customer raise his head up as soon as you have completed pouring on water or using the spray. Shake the water out of the hair as much as possible before using the towels, then dry the hair enough so the water will not run down the neck when the customer raises his head up. Be careful not to get lather in the customer's eyes. After the face has been wiped place your customer again in the chair and dry the hair thoroughly with the towel. In drying the hair do not place the towel over the head in such a way that the ends will fly around in the customer's face or eyes. Handle the towel so that the ends will be kept at the back of the head instead of in the face. Towels without fringe are preferable. The size of the towels should be 16x28 inches. This is the most convenient size for shav- ing or shampooing. Do not try to dry the hair by fanning as this leaves the hair stiff and harsh. Al- ways rub until thoroughly dry, thereby making it light, loose and fluffy. EGG SHAMPOO. For an egg shampoo use a fresh egg, break the end sufficiently to allow the white to come out a little at a time and rub thoroughly through the hair. After oi THE BARBERS' MANUAI,. rubbing the head well the same as with the shanipw^ jelly, wash the hair out the same as in the ordinary shampoo, but apply a little soap or jelly when you are rinsing the hair. An egg shampoo is supposed to leaye the hair in a better condition than any other kind of a shampoo. ALCOHOL SHAMPOO. An alcohol shampoo is the same as an ordinary one with the exception of rubbing alcohol through the hair after drying it. From fifteen to twenty-five minutes is usually necessary for giving a good shampoo. Men pay more for a shampoo than for a sea foam, and it is the work attached to it that makes it more expensive. Too many barbers are accustomed to slighting this work, which requires as much pains as any part of the barber business. A man may receive a bath for the same price that he pays for a shampoo, and if it was simply for cleansing the head all customers would take a bath in preference to paying simply for having the head cleaned. A shampoo is not properly done unless the hair is well rubbed and thoroughly dried. DRY SHAMPOO. Dry shampoo can be given the same as an ordinary THE BARBERS' MANUAL,. W shampoo, using- the shampoo jelly or a shampoo bar, but the hair should be washed out by using wet towels instead of taking- the customer to the shampoo stand. Use a towel wet enough to wash the lather out of the hair, and rinse your towel three or four times while cleaning the scalp. Dry the hair the same as before. SEA-FOAM. Sea-foam answers the same purpose as a shampoo, but it requires less work. The material used is a liquid. Apply it to the hair the same as water and rub the head vigorously. Apply a sufficient amount to wet the hair thoroughly and by rubbing^ well, it will cause it to foam and evaporate. After a liberal foam has been obtained, rub with both hands as in a shampoo until entirely evaporated. Then take a wet towel and rinse out the hair the same as in the dry shampoo. Less time and less work is required in g-iving^ a sea-foam and a smaller price is charged for it. Sea-foam is very cleansing, but less beneficial to the scalp than the shampoo. It removes dandruff for a time, but is more apt to create a growth of dan- druff than to destroy it. SINGEING. Singeing is to promote the growth of the hair. By 60 THE BARBERS" MANUAL. burning- the ends after it has been cut it closes the pores of the hair keeping- the fluid in and preventing the ends from splitting. It is one of the best remedies SINGEING for falling hair and it strengthens the growth. Hair can be singed at any length. Use a singeing taper or gas light taper in the THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 61 right hand, with the comb in the left, and for short hair, singe over the comb as in cut. Where the hair is long, singe over the fingers the same as in cutting long hair. This work is very simple after you have learned to trim, still it is a very important and a neces- sary qualification for the barber. The most pains should be taken around the crown and forehead as these are the parts where the hair is apt to fall out and needs the most strengthening. In singeing the back of the neck, use the comb above the blaze to pre- vent the fire from running up and catching the hair above the singer. This is the only difficult part of singeing. DYEING HAIR. The different formulas and preparations for dye- ing hair are numerous, although there is but one kind used to any extent by the barber. This is called Dye No. 1 and No. 2, called so from the fact that it is in two parts, or two bottles, labeled Nos. 1 and 2. This is the only instantaneous dye we have, and for this reason is the one preferred by the barber. It is sel- dom used in dyeing the entire hair or whiskers but is the universal application for the mustache. Dyeing the mustache is but little practiced nowadays, but it is very important that the barber should know how. 62 THE BARBEUS' MANUAL, for serving- customers with this part of the work leads to other trade. In dyeing, no matter what kind of dye is used, first thoroughly clean the hair or mustache. Sea-foam is the best to use for this purpose as it dries quickest. After the hair is thoroughly cleaned apply No. 1, either with the fingers or tooth brush. No. 1 simply prepares the hair for the dye, and does not color or effect the skin. After drying No. 1 by fanning: (not rubbing) apply No. 2 with a small brush, using it over the comb as shown in cut. Great care must be taken in dyeing the mustache or hair, to have a very little of the material ca the brush so as to prevent its running onto the skin, "^he most difficult part of this work is getting close to the THE BARBERS' MANUALr. 63 roots of the hair without touching- the flesh. When the dye is once on it cannot be washed out, even with soap or ammonia, and it is obliged to remain until worn off. "Where other kinds of dye are used they are applied the same as No. 2, first by cleansing- the hair and applying the fluid, but these dyes do not change the color of the hair immediately. Twenty-four hours is usually required for all other dyes to do their work. Any number of applications can be had according- to the color required, each application making- the hair a little darker, but with Nos. 1 and 2 it is immediately- dyed black. No other color can be obtained. BIvEACHING HAIR. Hair may be bleached from dark to light by using a solution of Hydrogen of Peroxide. For bleaching-, first clean the hair the same as for dyeing-, and apply the bleach in the same way as you apply the dye, being careful to keep it off from the flesh. As many applications can be applied as re- quired, each application changing- the color of the hair a few shades lighter. Twenty-four hours' time is required after the application to change the color of the hair 64 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. PRICES. Too often the mistake is made by beginners in this work, who think they will obtain more practice and as gfood profits, by cutting- prices. No g-reater error could be made and the writer would advise any man contemplating this profession as a life work to aban- don the work entirely if the regulation prices cannot be had. Nearly any line of day labor will be found as lucrative as cheap barber work, if not quite as easy. Your time and money spent in mastering- this pro- fession is putting you in possession of a serviceable trade and your place cannot be filled by the ordinary laborer. It is one that commands and receives good prices for good services, and no one will be benefitted by inferior work at cut rates. The average prices for barbering- are as follows: Hair-cutting 2Sc Honing Razors 2Sc Singe 25c Beard Trimming 25c Shampoo 25c Mustache Dye 25c Sea-foam 10c Shaye . . 10c. Dyeing the entire head of hair should be charg-ed for according to the length of the hair and THE BARBERS, MANUAL. 65 material required for doing^ it, usually frota $1.00 to $2 00 is the regulation price for hair or whiskers. In giving- a shave where it is requested that the back of the neck be shaved it is usually customary to charge fiye cents extra. For these prices the best brands of cosmetics should be used. MISCELIvANEOUS BRIEJES. Do not go out looking for employment at this work without a clean shaye, clean linen and a shine. Your personal appearance has as much to do with holding positions as your work itself. Neatness. Careful work. Politeness to customers. Speed comes by practice. Never hurry unless re- quested to. Do not seek to increase trade by cutting prices. I^ady hairdressing- is an accomplishment no barber can afford to be without. A well regulated barber shop should have the air of a parlor and its workmen the courtesy of a reception committee. A very essential thing of the barber profession is Dermatology, a science which deals with the treat- ment of hair, scalp and skin diseases. A full course of lectures delivered to the students of our Barber College by Dr. B. Franklin Tolson, L,. L,. B., M. D., is given in our Ready Reference Guide, which also con- G6 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. tains eig-hty select formulas for all cosmetics used in the barber shop. Price 25 cents. It is customary to leave a razor or some security for your position if you are not irn mediately ready to g^o to work. After securing- the position it will always be expected of you to keep work-stand, chair and glass neatly arranged and clean. A barber is not usually expected to take care of the shop further than this, althoug-h in small places, where there are no porters, it is customary for the barber to help care for the shop. FORMULAS. HAIR TONIC (BALDNESS.) Tinct. capsicum 2 drs. Water ammonia ( 10 per cent) 1 oz. Pilocarpine hydrochlorate 5 grs. Colog-ne 3 ozs. Use on scalp twice a day. HAIR TONIC. Tr. Cantharides 4 drs. lyiq. Ammonia 4 drs. Rose Water 2 ozs. Glycerine 4 ozs. Bay Rum 10 ozs. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 57 REMEDY FOR DANDRUFF. Resorcin 5 to 10 parts. Castor Oil 45 parts. Alcohol 150 parts. Balsam of Peru 5 part. Rub in daily with a piece of flannel. HAIR DYE. No. 1. Gallic acid 20 ffrs- Alcohol 5 dr>.. Water 2 drs. No. 2. Silver nitrate 1 dr. Ammonia 3 drs. Gum arabic . . 30 grs. Water 6 drs . Dissolve the silver nitrate in the ammonia and the g"um arabic in the water. Then mix. SHAMPOO PASTE. White soft soap 4 ozs. Honey soap, in shavings 2 ozs. Oliye oil 1 fl. oz. Water 1 fl. oz. Potassium carbonate 1 dr. Melt all together and beat into paste. May be per- fumed if desired. 68 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. IMPROVED SEA-FOAM. Alcohol 16 ozs Water 16 ozs. Aqua ammonia ... 1 dr, Cologne water 1 dr. HAIR BLEACH. The best preparation for this purpose is Peroxide of Hydrogen. BAY RUM. Jamaica rum 16 ozs. Rect. spts 64 ozs. Water 48 ozs. Mix and add: Oil of bay 1 oz. BARBER COLLEGE BRILLIANTINE. Castor oil 1 oz. Alcohol absolute 2 oz. Oil of rose Q . S. Oil of neroli Q. S This makes a gooJ preparation and is practically inseparable. BARBERS' POWDER. Salol 1 dr. Starch , 2 oz Mix and make a powder. THE BARBERS' MANUAI^ 69 HAIR POMADE. Lard 4 lbs. Yellow wax 3 oz. Palm oil 1 oz. Melt, strain, and add while stirring-: Rose water 4 ozs. Oil berg-amot 1 oz. OINTME^NT FOR BARBER'S ITCH. Tannic acid , 15 gr. Sulphur, precipitated Yz dr. Petrolatum 5 drs. GLYCERINE FACE LOTION. Mucilage of Flaxseed 8 fl oz Glycerine 8 Alcohol 2 Essence of rose Yz Borax 2 Rose water, sufficient to make 32 VIOLET WATER. Essence Violet, French's 8 oz Deodorized Alcohol 7 pints Rose water 1 pint Mix and filter. 70 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. MEN'S FACIAL AND SCALP MASSAGE. , Recently Men's Facial Massage has become as popu- lar in the barber shops as any work that he is called upon to do and one that affords a splendid revenue, if the skill and equipment for this department is as carefully looked after as the other branches. This is a profession that is more a matter of study and demon- stration than of practice. It differs from the other branches of the business inasmuch as the high efficiency in mechanical skill is not required, but a knowledge of the muscles of the face, their development and manipu- lations require a careful understandmg. Man}^ methods of doing this work are employed, usually varying according to the facilities obtainable. We have divided the work into three divisions, i. e., Vibratory, Electric and Finger manipulations, so that one or the other can be used in any locality or under any circumstances that may exist. The training of our System of Colleges includes all three of these methods so that one is qualified to take up the work in any establishment, or satisfy any employer, no mat- ter what method he may adopt. Massaging is done for the purpose of eradicating wrinkles, black heads, pimples and other facial blem- ishes, as well as to clear the complexion, develop THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 71 shrunken muscles, fill out hollow cheeks and harden flabby skin. It is a treatment recommended by physi- cians and if followed out according to the instructions laid down here, will produce surprising results. While every face will require the same general principle, they must be varied to suit each particular subject. On account of the beardy surface, men's facial massage is taken up by entirely a different set of manipulations than is used for ladies' work, so that one cannot follow- out the same system for both sex. APPARATUS REQUIRED FOR VIBRATORY AND ELECTRIC MASSAGE.. Probably the most popular instrument now in use in connection with the facial massage is the Vibrator, of which there are a great many patterns and different manufactures, all working on the one general principle of rapid vibrations to stimulate the circulations and exercise the muscles by kneading and manipulating. Among the higher priced machines, are those that are constructed to operate a number of different styles of movements thus savmg time that would be required by the hand process. The machines are operated by electricity, water power and in some instances by storage battery. Should you 12 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. CABINET BASE MASSAGER. RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, STORAGE BATTERIES, RUBBER CUP MASSAGER, CITY CURRENT. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 75 NATURAL HAND MASSAGER. be located in a city where electricity or city water power cannot be had and wish to use the vibratory, the 76 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. storage battery of course would be the only power that would be obtainable. With this instrument no elec- tricity is applied to the subject, as is quite frequently believed and it has nothing to do with the benefits of this method of massaging, by which the length of time required for the operation is shortened. Among the different grades of instruments, are those that stand on the roller cabinet, so that they may be placed convenient to the different chairs of the shop without difficulty, some are built to hang from a spring in an iron stand, while others stand on a wooden cabinet. There are others more simply constructed which in themselves are a small motor attached to either the city wire or storage battery and operate a small ham- mer-like rubber cup, from within the instrument held in the hand. Only one style of manufacture offers the machine that gives the natural hand massage. This is recommended very highly by numerous physi- cians on account of the benefits that can be derived from the hand in place of the mechanical rubber cup. This instrument has an arm running from the motor to the hand, giving it the rapid movement and allowing some skill to be displayed in manipulation of the differ- ent movements. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 77 ELECTRIC MASSAGE. The electric apparatus that operates entirely on an- other principle supplies electricity direct to the patient, by means of the roller, sponge disc or through the operator and gives what is known as the Electric Mas- sage. The Faradic current is the only one suitable for this style of massage and it is essential that a battery of light voltage is used to avoid a severe shock at any time. Among the many manufactured is one that in- cludes the dry cells with conducting cords, sponge disc, N24.4 ,''ARAb/G BATTERY M;^ ELECTRIC BATTERIES AND ACCESSORIES. 78 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. rollers, brushes and other small accessories. It is the only one intended exclusively for the barber and mas- suer's use. Quite frequently results can be obtained by the elec- tric massage than cannot be reached by other means and it is well to have this battery as part of your equip- ments whether employed as a journeyman or conduct- ing your own business. It is portable and can be operated without danger of injurious effects. By many, electricity is considered one of the best means of destroying germs and contagious diseases. For finger manipulation alone, without the use of mechanical devices, it is only necessary to be provided with hot water, towels and creams for that purpose. Many prefer this method of massaging, although it usually requires a little longer time to give it. The nature of the creams and skin foods used for this proc- ess is entirely different from that used with mechanical devices, although each are for the purpose of cleansing the skin and building up the tissue and is an important factor in this work. A number of these devices are suitable for the use of massaging the scalp as well as the face. They should be kept well oiled, handled care- fully and cups sterilized in a lo per cent solution of carbolic acid after each treatment. One specialist has the following to say about Vibra- THE BARBERS' MANUAL. . 79 tory Massage : The general public is now so thoroughly conversant with the great benefits of manual massage or system of manipulation and kneading for relief of all ailments, that we will not devote any space to this subject, but mechanical massage which is fast taking the place of hand manipulation is not so well known. Whenever a treatment is give'n, however, there is such an invigorating and agreeable effect produced, that your patron not only discards the old methods, but becomes a more frequent user of the new. Never in the history of any treatment has there been anything that has sprung into popularity in so short a time as Vibratory Message, more commonly known as Mechan- ical Massage. No barber shop, no masseur's or Dermatologist's par- lor or treating room is complete without an outfit. FACIAL MASSAGE. Poor circulation of the blood is the direct cause of many affections of the skin and scalp as well as dis- orders of the body. When the minute blood vessels and pores of the face fail to perform their respective duties and impurities are not properly eliminated, black heads, pimples, wrinkles, etc., appear. A treatment gives activity to the blood vessels which 80 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. carry off the impurities and with the movement of the massager the pores are opened and thoroughly cleansed, leaving the skin soft and smooth. These treatments are becoming so popular that not only the men, but many ladies are taking them. As any hygienist will appreciate, that this form of treat- ment will do more in securing a beautiful complexion and a lasting one, than all the cosmetics and alleged beautifiers in the world. SCALP TREATMENT. There is no way possible of treating the scalp as can be done by massage. As in the case of the face, it produces a good circulation of the blood which gives new life and strength to the hair and is a cure for all scalp diseases. This treatment is extremely refreshing and is felt for hours afterwards. It is a popular treatment for the quick cure of headache, neuralgia, muscular twitching, insomnia, etc. In giving a facial or head treatment, always finish at the lower part of the neck, which draws the blood from the brain, relieving congestion where it exists, and this will give the best possible result. BASED UPON NATURAL LAWS. Hygeia-Vibration is no longer considered a fad, but THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 81 a natural and scientific treatment, which has come to stay. It is fast superseding the drugging and other harmful methods. Aside from the benefits already referred to in the treatment of face and scalp, the combined vibrating and kneading movements of a massager produce wonderful results as an exerciser of the muscles and is a power- ful influence upon the circulation and nerve fluids in all ailments and weaknesses. It produces a decided "warming" effect. Specialists, in conducting experi- ments in vibratory treatment, have noticed the marked increase in temperature of the part subjected to the massage, the amount increased depending upon the length of time the application is made and the degree below normal temperature at the start. The treatment, in fact, helps not only in local conditions, but fills the patient from head to foot with new vigor and vitality, building up the health generally a? nothing else can. MUSCLES OF THE FACE. In order that you will better understand the scien- tific manipulations of the muscles as well as the outer conditions of the skin, we present here the illustrations defining each and every muscle, and in the following pages describe how they are to be manipulated to bring about the best results. For this illustration and descrip- tion we are indebted to Dr. J. E. MacGregor. DIAGRAM OF MUSCI. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 83 Frontal Bone. Parietal. Occiptal. Squamous portion of Temporal. Pronto-parietal (Coronal) and Occipito-pareital (Lamboid) sutures. Malar. External Auditory Meatus. Orbicularis Palpebrarum Muscle. Zygomatici Major and Minor. Masseter Muscle. Orbicularis Oris. Levator-Menti. Sterno-mastoid. Levator Auguli Scapulae. Omo-Hyoid-anterior part. Internal Jugular vein. Facial Vein. Temporal Vein. Common Cortoid Artery. Facial Artery. Superficial Cervical nerves. Facial Nerve. Supra-maxillary division. Trachea. Occipito Frontalis. 84 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. DESCRIPTION AND ACTION OF FACIAL MUS- CLES. (Dps Jh r] ™ «3 U -M • Jh -<-' .* -> •'^ ti "H J^ tfl p, ° cfl 3 — ' > Sh t«-G x: •'^ he p Bends ward one si 6 h:i5 a k 6 ^ G >> o f ■ tH <+-! 1 1 . ,. G ^ t^ ^ > 2 ?^, rt wer nfer liar «->''-5 •'-'•'-' 1 >A 1 ^ o tn 'u (U rt ^ . G hiot3 5«o .s ^ ^ ^ 1 U bcG a; ^3 to Pi ^'i^ (u a> Q^ C -G tfl Mh 'T' cog "^ 3 '0 tfl +J M-l rt G t« (U M 5- rt W h ^ CO ^ 'o -o % > S u G ^'■' O G 0) o GO c ^ art 'O G nJ rt G "^ [fl tC ;>, tfl "^-i J- rt +-> •-' 1-H S- T^ nJ . nj (^ 5-1 rt art ^0 a; G 6 rt ai- 0) MH ao H P o G a ^ CO • X3 (A s (0 rt H ^ rt o tfl hioG S3 CO 1, CO 1 1 •r-i nj rt n ^1 nj ■J tfl rbicul palpe rum. G . « . to tern do- toid 10 CO 1 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 85 FINGER MANIPULATION. In order to give a satisfactory massage, it is first necessary that your customer has a smooth shave to manipulate successfully. If you have just given the shave, keep your customer in the same position for the massage and continue with it before drying the face. With an ordinary shave, one or two hot towels is sufficient, but to prepare for the massage use three or four. If your customer comes to you with a smooth shave, place him in the chair, cover him with a hair cloth, arrange the breast towel the same as for giving a shave and have the customer prepared for the hot towel process. It is essential that you use clean water. If you are so arranged that you draw the hot water from a tank supplied by the building in which you may be located, it is presumed that the water is clean as it is usually boiled before reaching the faucet. If you have an apparatus such as is used in numerous shops, that is in itself an instantaneous heater where the water is drawn from the city pipes this will be suit- able, but if you have a small tank to be filled with well water or from city pipes, you must be particularly cautious that the tank or receptable holding the water is kept free from all impurities. It is very essential that the towels used are as hot 86 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. as can . be handled in order to bring about the best results. If your washstand is some distance away from your chair, it is advisable to keep your towels folded in such a manner that it will be easily unwrapped when close to the face in order to let the steam of the towel strike the face before applying the hot towel. APPLYING HOT TOWEL. We are now ready to place the towel on the face, holding it at either end with the two hands in such a manner that it will be drawn perfectly tight. Let the center of the towel strike the chin and bring it up over all parts of the face to be massaged, covering the eyes and forehead, leaving only the end of the nose uncovered. A small Turkish towel is most suitable for THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 87 this use. Bringing one end of the towel np over the other at the forehead and allow it to remain on the face while saturating another towel. The second towel may be laid on top of this one in the same manner or after the first towel has rested on. the face a half a minute. It may be taken off and replaced with the second towel. It may be well that you use a third towel well down on the neck, being careful that you do not get the collar or shirt band wet. Repeat this as often as it seems necessary to thoroughly steam and redden the face, thus bringing blood to the surface and assists the manipulation. You now have the face ready for the rolling cream, so called on account of the manner in which it rolls off from the face during the manipulation. Without drying on face, take a small portion of the cream in the palm of the left hand and with the ends of the fingers of the right hand, put a small amount on the face at a time, distributing it as evenly as possible without delaying the work or wasting more time than is necessary. Time must be saved in this process in order to start the manipulation before the face has time to thoroughly dry. Have the cream evenly dis- tributed over all parts that are to be massaged, giving it a thin layer, similar to a coat of paint. Frequently the cream becomes dry and does not separate readily; 88 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. in this event, it can be softened or thinned with a small amount of witch hazel. After yon have your cream spread, rub the two hands together with a small amount of cream in order to thoroughly saturate the insides of the hands. Begin the manipulation as shown in figure. ROTARY CHEEK MOVEMENT. Take your position back of the customer in such a manner that you have free action of both arms. Place the hands on the cheeks and rub in a rotary movement, beginning at the jaw bone and work up over the THE BARBERS' MANUAL. cheeks toward the eyes and ears. Some practice will be required to learn to manipulate with both hands alike, using only the balls of the fingers and give what IS known as the rotary movement. Repeat the manipu- lation from five to ten times, varying it in such a way that you will cover all parts of the side of the face to the temple. It will require some experience to know just how many movements to make in order to get all over the face before it starts to dry. On a fleshy person whose face is naturally warm, the cream drys much faster than on a thin bloodless face. Going to the second move- ment, place the ends of the fingers together under the STRAIGHT NASAL MOVEMENT. 90 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. chin and with the two thumbs on each side of the nose as shown in illustration. Manipulate with the thumbs in a straight up and down movement on both sides of the nose, working down to the part of the cheek that has been manipu- lated in the first movement. Repeat this manipulation about the same number of times as the former. It is necessary to place the fingers under the chin in order to steady the hand while giving the thumbs the move- ment. Continue down the face to the upper lip with each thumb and continue down over the chin, still keeping the end of the fingers in the same position completing, this movement. ROTARY FRONTALIS. THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 91 Now place the ends of the fingers on the cheeks and manipulate with the thumbs over the forehead in a rotary movement as described in Rotary Frontalis. This is to develop the Occipito Frontalis muscle to eradicate the lines that form at the forehead. Now we are ready for the kneading and rolling proc- ess. Take your position at the side of the chair, (starting on the right side) by picking up a roll of the KNEADING AND ROLLING. skin at the lower part of the ear and kneading and rolling in the direction as shown in illustration, varying the direction until you have covered the right 92 THE BARBERS" MANUAL. side of the face, working from the ear toward tlie chin, along the jaw bone, as well as toward the nose and up toward the eyes. This is to strengthen the two mus- cles No. 9 Zygomatic! Major and Minor and No. lO The Masseter as shown in the diagram. If the massage is given for the purpose of reducing the flesh, it should be more vigorous as this will cause the muscles to develop, taking the place of areolar tissue, (fat) which is decreased, thus hardening the flabby loose skin. At about this point in the operation STRAIGHT FRONTALIS. THE BARBERS' MANUAL, 93 the cream should begin to come off the skin in rolls. Care should be taken that it is not allowed to work underneath the collar. Continue to manipulate by kneading on both sides as long as the cream rolls and continue over the nose and forehead and between the eyes. By stretching the skin, between the thumb and fingers of the left hand, rub up and down over the Occipito Frontalis with the second finger of the right hand as described in illustration, Straight Frontal. Now stretch the skin tight between the eyebrows with finger and thumb of the left hand and rub lightly with the second finger of the right hand across the lines that form at this point. Care must be taken not to massage too heavy to over-develop these muscles, thus giving the face a stern appearance'. Now place the thumb and finger of the left hand under the eye at the bridge of the nose and at the outer corner^ stretching the skin lightly underneath the eye. The massage is giy,ep with the second finger of the right hand. Rub from the inner corner out in a half circular movement a? shovyn in figure, Circular Movement. Great care i?3ust be exercised in not massaging too heavy at this ^oint as it is easy to discolor the eye, giving it the ap|^earane,e of a bruise. This should ben,e- .fit the dsifk circles a;t^d ;Cares\vOrn appearance, but ^ust 94 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. not be overdone. This operates on the Orbicularis Palpebrarum. Now place the finger of the left hand above and below the outer corner of the eye and mas- sage lightly across the lines commonly known as crow's feet that form at this point. Now take your position CIRCULAR ORBICULAR MOVEMENT. behind the customer and rub over the entire face lightly to remove all particles of cream that may have been left on the face in rolls. In case your subject is troubled with black heads, THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 95 the cream while being rolled from the face will re- move some of the small ones, but in the event of larger ones appearing, it will be necessary to use the Comedo Extractor. Now apply another hot towel as formerly described, repeating three or four times, allowing the fade to steam from two to three minutes. Now is the time to use the Comedo Extractor, but it must be remem- bered that only a few must be removed in immediate proximity to each other. You may take a small por- tion of one side of the face and then a small portion COMEDO EXTRACTOR. of the other side, but in severe cases it may require several treatments to remove them all. Draw the skin .tight with the thumb and finger of the left hand over the black heads to be removed and place the hole of the Comedo Extractor over the black heads. If they are too obstinate, it is not policy to irritate the face 96 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. by too severe pressure, but wait for two or three treat- ments, which will eventually remove them. In case your subject is troubled with pimples, you should be careful to ascertain what is their cause. In case of systemic diseases, syphlitic diseases and gastro intestinal, it is not policy to try to treat by this process, although they may be benefitted by it. The pimples that can be treated most successfully is one that will be found with a small black head in the center and contains pus, which is caused by the decomposition of the black heads. If the contents can be removecf easily, do so by pinching it lightly between the two thumbs, being careful not to allow the nails to come in contact with the open pimple. If it is not easily removed, let it have another treatment. If removed, apply Peroxide of Hydrogen with a small piece of cotton, but do not allow the cotton to remain on any length of time. If left too long, peroxide will destroy the tissue and leave a small scar. This is used as an antiseptic. In all methods of massaging, whether or not pimples or black heads appear, finish by anointing the face with cold cream or skin food. After thoroughly rubbing it into the skin, remove all that is possible to wipe ofif with a clean, soft towel. In most instances it wili be desired by your patient that you apply another hot THE BARBERS' MANUAL. 97 towel and immediately after a cold one to close the pores and harden the flesh. In first-class establish- ments, a toilet water of some description is used, but the massage may be given without. Thoroughly wipe the face and apply a good wholesome powder as is described in shaving. It is advisable that a sifter top can is used in prefer- ance to the lump magnesia or puff as there is not the possibility of diseases being conveyed from one face to another. VIBRATORY. The Vibratory Massage may be given in addition to the finger manipulation or in connection with the elec- tric massage if desired, but ordinarily only one style is required at a time, although many customers vary the treatments, having first one and then the other. Where this method is desired without either of the others, prepare your customers by applying the hot towels as described in the manner of finger manipu- llatu-ottii and after the face is thoroughly steamed, apply a cream which is a sk'm food, not the rolling cream as described with the fofmer movements. This cream both cleanses and builds up tissues and is driven into the face by the rapid vibrating movement 98 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. of the instrument. After spreading the cream, apply one hot towel in order to soften the cream, making it easier to drive into the pores of the skin. As the face cannot be thoroughly cleaned by the use of hot towels, wipe the cream from the face with a clean, dry towel and it will be seen that much dirt will be removed even after the face has been well washed. You may now apply cream again and you have the customer ready for the instrument. If you are using the style of machine to which the hand is attached in place of the rubber cups, fasten the right hand on securely by running the entire hand through the first strap and the second and third finger through the second strap. Buckle it tightly, so there will be no lost motion between the hand and the instrument. Place the machine on the opposite side of the chair from which you are working, so that arm of instru- ment will be at right angles with the hand, as shown in illustration. Vibratory Hand Massage. Start the machine in motion and begin the massage on the forehead. Cross the lines, working from one side of the forehead to the other. Place the fingers on the face lightly, then pass over the same surface, allowing the ends of the fingers to tap the face with the rapid movement caused by the machine. Work dowai over the cheeks in a rotary movement until the THE BARBERS' MANUAL. VIBRATORY HAND MASSAGE. 100 THE BARBERS' MANUAL. entire side of the face is massaged. Work up over the nose and very lightly underneath the eyes, gradnall)' working across the chin to the other side of the face, and massage both sides alike. If you have a revolving chair so that it can be adjusted, it will not be necessary to stop your machine to operate on both sides of the face, but in case you have an ordinary reclining chair which does not re- volve, it will be necessary to massage one side, then place the machine on the other side of the chair and complete your work. The Vibratory Massage should not be overdone. In no instance should it be applied more than fifteen minutes and usually not more than ten. This method of massaging affords the customer a very pleasant sensation, one that is difficult to describe, but when once given will be much sought after. If the work has been properly done, the cream will have been absorbed by the face an-d it will be left with a healthy glow. Judgmepit must be dis.pl;ayed in niiassagjng the .different faces. If you have a skin that is very tender and .easily irritated, yo,u must be particularly cautious to make your stroke light. If you have a face that is thin with hollow cheeks and needs building up, work jn as much cream as is possible by applying if a seconame as a wig- which only adds to your practice of new styles. Customers who wear switches oftentimes ask for the styles that appear in fashion plates, and by having one of these for j'our practice use you will be ab'e to accomodate all. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAI^. 21 FIRST WORK. In beginning, first prepare by spread- 22 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAt. ing- the hair cloth or apron over the person and pin it closely around the neck to protect the dress. Then take down the hair by removing all the hairpins and allowing- the hair to hang- straight down the back. A. chair of the ordinary height with low back should be used so that the back will not interfere with the hair while being dressed. COMBING. First, part the hair in the centre, then on the sides dividing it in four parts. Comb each division separately by holding the hair tightly close to the head and beginning at the extreme ends of the hair and working up as the snarls are removed. In parting the hair, hold the comb between the thumb and forefinger, drawing a straight line from nearly the crown of the head to the back of the ear. After the four divisions haye been combed out separ- ately, then comb it altogether straight down the back, which leaves it ready for crimping and dressing. CRIMPING. First, part the hair in the center from the fore- head about half way back to the crown, and then on the sides to the back of the ear. These lines must vary according to the thicknessof HAIRDRESSERS'' MANLAL,. 23 PARTING. 24 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. tnc nair or shape of the head. In thick hair, a small proportion should be divided off, and in thinner the part should be farther back. After this division is made, another pari should be made from near the back of the ear around the back of the head to the other side, leaving^ the crown in a division by itself, and should be twisted and pinned up out of the way. The balance of the hair should be crimped, curled or waved. In all first-class establishments the irons are GAS STVOE. heated by gas heaters, a small stove or burner made especially for this purpose. The iron should be put on the burner three or four minutes before ready for use. Hair should be parted in small strands for crimping-, beginning- at the back HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 25 CRIMPING. 26 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. of the head near the crown and working- forward and down until the side is finished. Curl both sides alike and then the back; just enough hair must be divided in each strand to fill the iron, making- a space of about an inch square. After the first strand is separated, take the iron from the burner and test the temperature by closing it on a piece of paper. If it does not scorch the paper it will not burn the hair, but it must be made as hot as possible and not burn. If the iron is overheated, it can be brought to the proper tempsrature by twirling- it in the hand until cooled sufficiently for use. It should never be dipped in water to cool, as it soon spoils the iron, in this way, causing- it to rust. With little practice you will be able to test the temperature by holding- it close to the face. Hold the iron closed in the right hand, pick up the strand of hair divided for the curl in the left hand; hold the iron about one inch from the head and be- gin by winding the hair around the iron, starting in the center of the iron and winding towards the end until about one-half of the length of the strand is crimped, then turn the iron down to the head, crimping it close to the roots. Hair should be wound around the iron from the ^ront to the back, and on the back of the head begin- HAIBDRESSERS' MANUAL. 27 ning at the upper part aod work down, winding the hair around the iron from the bottom up. When through curling, unpin the straight hair, the part that has been pinned up, comb it out, holding the hair close to the head with the left hand and combing it out with the right, beginning at the ends of the hair and working toward the roots. After the snarls are all taken out, comb the hair up and tie it close to the roots with a string, letting the ends hang down the back, then comb the crimps out at the back of the head first by taking the comb in the right hand close to the head, drawing it through the curls, giving it a loose, wayy appearance; then comb out the front, one side at a time; gather all of the crimped hair up by bringing the back hair up with the left hand and gathering the front in the right hand, let- ting the ends fall between the thumb and the finger of the left, then retie all of the hair together at the crown of the head, leaving the crimped hair loose enough to give a fluffy appearance. Now you haye the hair ready to dress in any style the customer wishes. The style that is used most at present is put up by dividing the hair crossyvays of the head, this leayes the hair divided into a top and bottom part. Take the top part in a twist or coil and pin it in place as shown. 28 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. This can be done up in a knot or pinned in coils to suit the style your customer desires. The lower half or part that you have left, twist in a coil hold- ing- the ends of the hair with the rig-ht hand, take the left near the centre of the strand, then bring- the ends up to the head and turn the hair over to make a loop. Be sure that the ends of the hair come under the loop, then make a second loop with the ends of the hair at the side of the head finishing by pinning the ends under the loops crossing them at the back of the head or curl the ends and pin them down in the cen- ter. This is the simplest style of dressing the hair and after once learned the styles as they change are easily followed. In pinning up the first or top coil- let the ends of the hair remain on the left side of the head, and in putting up the bottom coil, bring- the ends to the right, and as you finish pinning the ends of the hair, let them cross each other at the back of the head, otherwise you would not haye sufficient hair to pin to. This completes a plain hair-dress without bangs. This style of hair-dress can be used with a pompadour roll or a rat. They are made of wire or hair, and can be used on the front of the head, the sides or back. They are used by putting them on the head after the hair has been divided the same as it would HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 29 be for crimping-. When used on top, pin the roll on each side and in the center, then comb the hair, either crimped or straig-ht, over the roll, covering it entirely and giving the hair the appearance of PUI'FIXG. pompadour, often called the pompadour roll. When used on the sides, comb the hair over the roll at each side and comb it back flat on top, allowing- the :;0 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. hair to roll out oti each side only. It can be used in che back the same way^ The hair can be dressed in puffs after it is crimped instead of coils, which is done by dividing- the hair in four or five strands, parting- it crosswise in as many strands as you want puffs. Comb the back strand out straig-ht, do not twist it in a coil as in dressing- the former style. Hold the ends of the hair in the left hand between the thumb and the fing-er. Place the forefinger of the right hand about an inch from the left and then bring the end of the hair oyer the right finger and roll the strand up by bringing one finger over the other inside of the little loop you have formed. When rolled to the head, hold it there in a puff with the forefinger of the left hand and spread it with the right hand, pinning the side of the puff close to the nead. Then remove the fingei of the left hand and pin that side the same, then so on with the next one until all the puffs are made, one after the other. To avoid having the puffs drop away from each other, put an invisible hairpin in the center of the puff, pinning them together. The best way to follow new styles is to watch the fashion plates that come out with the Hairdressing Journal, ard practice them on a wig before trying them on your customer. HAIRDRESSERS' MxiNUAL. 31 HIGH HAIRDRESS— FRENCH DOUBLE DIP. In this style, tie the hair after parting and curling, same as in the former styles, except that it should be tied as high as the hair will allow. Begin by putting TIEING. up the front, standing on the right side of the customer, putting up the left dip first. The dip is made by first roughing the h?ir with the comb, which is accomplished by sliding the comb back- 32 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. ward through the hair toward the roots. Great care must be taken not to allow the teeth of the comb to extend through the under portion. After roughing., smooth the under side by combing toward the ends. ROUGHING. In making the dip, first twist the ends of the hair to the right with the left hand, keeping the first and second finger of the right hand about an ii;ch from the roots of the hair and draw the entire coil over the HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 33 finger, making a puff as shown in the cut. In draw- ing the finger from underneath the dip spread the hair into a roll. FORMING DIPS. The second dip is accomplished in the same way as the first. In dressing the sides, divide the hair cross- wise into two parts, bringing the upper half straight up and pin at the crown and then take the remaining half and pin over the other, excepting that it is pinned 34 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. a little farther back. Both sides are dressed alike. The back of the hair is now ready to be dressed. Part the hair crosswise and rough the upper half the same as the front dip, and twist from left to right in a coil, leaving the rough portion inside the coil. This HIGH FRENCH KNOT. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 35 will leave the coil loose and fluffy, with a smooth ex- terior. Twist into a long coiffure by taking the right hand with the palm up underneath the coil and turn it, leaving the back of the hand up. Pin in place, leaving the high French knot. The remainder portion of this strand is puffed as shown in former cut (puf- fing), and pin in place at the side of the coiffure. Now, take the remainder of the hair, twist into a coil and make a half knot by holding the coil with the BOW KNOT. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. FRONT VIEW — COMPLETED. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 37 BACK VIEW — COMPLETEDo 38 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. right hand a little way from the head, and taking the first finger of the right hand with the palm of the hand up and form a loop by turning the hand over, leaving the next strand around the first finger, then bring the strand over and draw upward through the loop so that it forms a bow knot, and pin down, mak- ing the form of a three-leaf clover. Ornaments should be worn on the left side. SIDE DIP— LOW HAIRDRESS. The front of this is put up the same as in the former style except that one dip is made instead of two and placed a little to the left. Tie back hair up as in the former style except have it a little below the crown. The hair is now ready to be dressed. Divide it into two parts by parting crosswise. First, twist into a roll and make a half figure 8 by holding the ends of the hair with the left hand. Take the first finger of the right hand underneath the roll, making a loop by turn- ing the right hand over with the first finger still in the knot. Then bring the strand around the knot with the left hand, forming a puff. Then pin in place and make a puff with the ends of the hair, making the I.t^^. puff at the side of the first one as shown. This puff is made different from the former ones, um the remaining ends are long and thin. Hold the ends HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 39 HALF FIGURE EIGHT. of the hair with the right hand and wind it around the first three fingers of the left hand, flatly rolling up the balance of the strand to the head and pin in place at the side of the coiffure. Twist the remaining portion 40 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. PUFF NO. 2. of the hair to the right tightly, and when doubled back it will form a half figure eight. Leave it long enough so that it comes about two inches below the roots of the lower hair. Pin in place. Twist the balance of the strand tightly to the right and place crosswise of the head into whole figure eight. Tuck the remaining short ends underneath and pin in place. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 41 BACK VIEW — COMPLETEc 42 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. MARCEL WAVE. This style of waving takes the place of crimping and can be used with any style of hairdress. It must be done with a particular style of iron, called the Marcel Iron. \Vlien properly done the hair remains waved longer and has the appearance of a naturally wavy head of hair. Before commencing, iLhampoo the hair and dry well. Begin waving the hair on the right hand side. Take a strand, not too thick, and make the first wave just above the ear. To obtain the first wave, the strand of hair must be held by the left hand. Irons should be held perpendicularly, as shown in cut, in the right HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 43 hand and the hair should be pressed with them with a slightly upward movement. The second wave is obtained by sliding the irons a little farther along the strand of hair, then pressing them with a slightly downward movement. This operation should be con- tinued right along to the end of the strand. The first strand having been properly waved in its full length, a small part of it should be taken and joined to the next in order to show exactly where the irons are to be placed along this second strand, so that when the hair is waved all over and nicely combed all the waves will fall properly into each other. K The right side being entirely finished, the left should 44 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. be proceeded with. The position in which the irons must be held should be carefully noted and care must be taken to always keep the hollow groove in the irons on the top. Proceed in the same way, taking up a small part of the first wave strand, in order to properly indicate the places where the second strand should be waved. The sides being waved, continue with the strand at the top of the head, taking a small part of the waved lock from the right side as an indication as to where the waves are to be made. HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 45 In oiuer to wave the nape of the neck, the head should be bent slightly forward, and the strand already finished fixed up on the top. The little locks at the nape of the neck should then be held with the left hand and waved with the right as previously shown. Ladies can easily keep the waves from disappearing by touching them up with the irons, even when the hair is dressed. 46 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAl,. TRIMMING. Many styles of bang's are worn at different times, andthe form of trim ming-, like dressing-, can be learned from the fashion plates. The bang- worn on the top and sides is made by parting" the hair crosswise from the top of one ear to the other. If the hair is parted in the center, comb each side down; then take up a small lock, beg-inning at the top or the part, and cut it off the proper leng-th, usually from two to three inches, depending- entirely upon the shape of the forehead ; then pick up the next lock under- neath, cut the same length, but be careful and hold the hair down when cutting- instead of straight up, and so on until all the bangs are trimmed the proper length. Be careful to get each side alike. Comb the short hair forward over the forehead and cut in a V shape, a bout even with the eyebrows. Then comb the sides out, holding it between the thumb and finger of the left hand, cutting it even, making it gradually shorter close to the ear, then comb it straight and trim the lower edge nearly to the bottom of the ear. Other styles can be trimmed in the same way, follow- ing new fashion plates. In case the hair is to be cut all over, it must be trimmed the same as a barber shingles hair, and foi- HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 47 low the same line of instructions as given in our Barbers' Manual, except that the neck is never shaved. Be very cautious and not get the lower part of the hair trimmed close to the head, as it must be left long- enough to curl. This is the only difference in trim- ming short hair for ladies and men. SHAMPOOING. Comb the hair out the same as in dressing it to pre- pare it for shampoo. There are a great many sub- stances used in giving a shampoo. The kind most fayored by hair dressers is the liquid, a formula of which is given in the back part of the book. This is applied by using the regular barbers' bottle, so made that you may hold it by the neck and apply the sham- poo as wanted. Hold the bottle in the left hand, pour on a small portion at a time and rub with the right. This will form a lather, and a sufficient amount must be used to thoroughly wet or suds the hair. Start on the top and work the suds down to the sides, being careful not to let the lather get into the custo- mer's eyes or on the face. Then gather the long hair up from the back of the head in the right hand and apply the shampoo with the left until the hair Is thoroughly lathered to the ends. Then set the bottle down, hold the long hair up oyer the head 4^ HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. without allowing- it to tang-le and rub the roots of the hair with the risrht. Never rub the long- hair in such SHAMPOOING. a way to tangle it. After the scalp has been thoroughly cleaned and rubbed, your customer is HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 49 ready for the rinsing. In preparing your customer you should be very cautious in putting the towel around the back of the neck to protect the dress. Where you have a hot and cold water apparatus, see that the water is perfectly temperatured betore gettingyourcustomer under the spray. In preparing the wash stand, lay a towel on the stand that the customers may rest their elbows on it in leaning over the bowl. A stool of the proper height is most con- venier*^ ^^or your customer to sit on while the hair is being ruioed. After the wash stand is prepared, take your customer to the stand and have the head bent over far enough so that the water will not run down the neck while being applied. Take the spray in the left hand, and as the water is turned on, be careful that it is not allowed to wet the collar of the dress. Turn the hair down over the head at the top and begin rinsing at the roots. First thoroughly cleanse the scalp and use sufficient water to get the soap all out. Work carefully down to the ends of the hair without tangling it. The greatest miiitake is in not using sufficient amount of water to thoroughly cleanse it, which will cause it to be sticky in drying. After the hair is thoroughly rinsed, wring as much water out of it as possible, and dry it enough so that the water will not run down the neck or over the eyes when the customer raises up from the bowl. 50 HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. In taking- the customer back to the chair, hold the hair on the top of the head with a towel placed over the hair in such a way as to protect the face and clothing. DRYING. Beg-in the drying- by letting the hair fall down over the back and thoroughly rubbing the scalp with a HAIRDRESSERS' MANUAL. 51 ;.oweJ antjl partly dried, and complete by fanning- or laying- it over 'ihe electric or gas hair dryer.Hair dryers are objected, to by a great many customers, and in this ca.sing them where a customer's MANICURER'S MANUAL. 101 nails would be diseased, they would convey the dis- ease to another customer very easily. Sterilize by dipping- them in a fifty per cent solution of carbolic acid. The material used in manicuring- can be had or any toilet supply house or drug store. They consis^ 102 MANICURERS' MANUAL. of Ongaline, a liquid, Nail powder, and Rosaline, in the form of a paste and Beau Brummel, a liquid put up in packag-e with brush for applying-. Be very cau* tious in keeping- the liquids well corked both while using- and after completing as they evaporate or lose their strength and scent. Be very careful not to put the orang-e stick in the bleach after cleaning- the nail until well wiped off as the material would soon be spoiled if dirt was al- MANICURERS' MANUAL. lowed to drop in it. Be very careful not to allow the Ongaline to touch or drop on the clothes, as it wilj take out the color the same as lemon juice. PRICES FOR MANICURING. The prices for manicuring- men and women are usu- ally different. They rangre all the way from 25 cents to $1.00; usually establishments that charg-e $1.00 for men charg-e 50 cents for ladies. I/adies' nails are usually easier manicured than men's. The aver- ag-e price for the work, however, is 50 cents, and it requires from fifteen minutes to half an hour, NAIL TINT. Oil of Lentise Yz oz. Salt Yz^r. Resin 1 scrup. Alum 1 scrup. Wax 1 scrup. NAIIy POWDE^R. Oxide tin, very fine 4 lbs. Carmine X 1^^. Oil of Berg-amot 150 g-rs. Oil of L* MASSAGE MANUAL. INSTRUCTIONS IN FACIAL MASSAGE. In this, the Twentieth Century, beauty is considered a God Given Gift and its preservation a solemn duty. The day for secrecy has gone by and men and women aliice now call as regularly on their Massuer as upon their Manicurist and with as little thought of secrecy. Age should be a matter of looks not of years, and everyone may remain youiig if they are willing to de- vote the time and attention necessary for good results. If old age has been creeping on apace and left unlovely tell-tale lines as a reminder, proper massage will rem- edy the evil and beauty be restored. That facial mas- sage has become a necessity is recognized by the care- fully groomed man of today as \\^ell as by my lady. Massage will not alone do everything, but a sensible diet, air, sunshine and scrupulous cleanliness combined with a reliable skin food and correct massage will do wonders. As the first requisite for a good complexion is thor- cuo-h cleanliness, we recommend the Automatic Mas- sage, or Hydro-Vacu, as being the best agent to bring MASSAGE MANUAi 105 about the desired result, the combined suctions and pressure opening up and cleansing the pores automat- ically. Unless there are deep lines the use of the Automatic Massage will be all that is found necessary, as it thoroughly exercises all the muscles in the face, AUTOMATIC OR HYDRO-VACU. but if the unwelcome lines are there, they must be worked out with tissue food by the hand manipulation. Blackheads disappear as if by magic by this treatment. First. — Make the patient perfectly comfortable. If a barber chair cannot be procured, use a large easy 106 MASSAGE MANUAL. chair that can be tilted back, thus throwing the head up, making it comfortable for both patient and oper- ator. Pin the hair back closely, remove the collar, tuck towel in to protect the clothing and then cover the patient with the large apron, same as used by bar- bers and hairdressers. Ask the patient to relax the muscles and quietly rest. Rub in thoroughly the Cream, always using a circular motion and working upward and outward. Leave the Cream, which is a bleach, on the face while fixing the Automatic Massage Bag ready for use. If the face is inclined to be oily or black heads are troublesome, fill bag with quite hot water. If not, use lukewarm water in which a tea- spoonful of powdered boracic acid has been dissolved. Hang the bag about six feet from the floor and place the outlet tube in pail with sufficient water in it to cover end of tube. Wipe the face with a small towel or napkin, removing all cream. Now place the Depurater on the face, open the clasp and move slowly upward on the mouth line (the line running from outside of nose to the corner of the mouth) to the nose, across the cheek, up to the temple and down across the little lines which form under the eyes. Move the automatic massage slowly across these fine lines and work in a circle around the cheek bone, avoiding the lines at the cor- ner of the eye. Work on the temples and across the MASSAGE MANUAL. 107 forehead m circles, always remembering to move slow- ly. After finishing one side of the face, work across the chin and do the other side in the same manner. If plump cheeks are wished for, work in circles where plumpness is desired. If the face is a young one with no heavy deep-set lines all that is now necessary is to rub in the Tissue Food, thoroughly cleanse and follow with another Automatic Massage Treatment using cold water in place of warm as before described. The cold water hardens the muscles and closes the pores. If an astringent is desired, use a small piece of alum in the cold water. An astringent is desirable where the pores are coarse. After using the cold water, wipe away all traces of cream, powder and your patient will leave refreshed in body and mind. If tell-tale lines of age or trouble are there, hand massage must follow the use of the Auto Massage and w^arm water. In mas- saging keep the fingers moist with the Tissue Food, and use only the balls of the finger tips. Always massage lightly except when wishing to reduce flesh, as in case of a double chin to be removed. Repeat each move- ment from twenty-five to fifty times, according to the necessity of the case. F-i'st Movement. — Place the finger tips, both hands, under the chin and move upward to the ears with a light, gentle, firm stroke, finishing the stroke either be- 108 MASSAGE MANUAL. THIRD MOVEMENT. MASSAGE MANUAL. ^09 hind the ears or ending with a circular movement under the ear. Second Movement. — Place the finger tips on the lines and with light even strokes work up, terminating each stroke in the center of the cheek. Third Movement. — Place the finger tips in the center of the forehead and work lightly, smoothing the lines outward to the hair at the temples. Fourth Movement. — Beginning at the inner corner of the eye on the upper lid^ move across to the outer cor- ner in a curved line, using the ball of the second finger, and being very careful not to press heavily on the eye ball. For the little lines which form at the inner cor- ner of the eye under the lower lid, use a short stroke beginning at the nose and enamg in about the middle of the lower lid. Fifth Movement. — To preserve the cupid's bow, place the first finger in the center of the upper lip and with the thumb and second finger work toward the center. The stroke should be a very short one or the shape of the lip will be destroyed. The lower lip should be treated in the same manner. 110 MASSAGE MANUAL. FIFTH MOVEMENT. Sixth Movement. — In massaging the throat, use the rotary movement and massage much heavier than the face. Use skin food plentifully and give particular attention to the tell-tale lines of age or stiff linen col- lars, under the ears. MASSAGE MANUAL. Ill SIXTH MOVEMENT. ANOTHER METHOD OF MANIPULATION. First Movement. — Fingers under chin — thumbs at center of forehead — slide thumbs down to chin, turn hand with fingers on chin back to ears. 2. Fingers under chin, thumbs at each side of nose, slide thumbs down and out, turn fingers on chin back to ears. Forehead. — 1. Fingers together at side of forehead, slide forward with fingers of other hand moving up and down; reverse. 2. Fingers together, move both hands up and down alternately. 112 MASSAGE MANUAL. 3. Fingers on each side of face, move thumbs circular on forehead. 4. With middle fingers rub alternately upward be- tween eyebrows. 5. Fingers together, rub from between eyebrows up- ward and around to temples. Eyes. — '1. Fingers on chin, thumbs together in mid- dle of forehead, circle around the eyes and over the eyebrows. 2. Fingers together, draw over the lids, spreading at the corners of eyes. 3. With the thumb and middle finger together at temple, slide apart and hold — give circular with fore finger of right hand. 4. With middle finger circle over the eyelids. 5. Fingers together, draw over the eyelids, outward. With fingers on chin, circle thumbs on nose and around chin. Pat face with hands alternately upward. Palms of hands, circle hollows of cheeks. Pinch cheeks and in front of ears with thumb and closed fore finger, upward. Rub chin upward. Double chin, rub down and low. Circle neck and pat upward. MASSAGE MANUAL. 113 For circles under eyes, rub cheeks up, with thumbs; fingers at side of face. Fii?gers on foreheaa, rub thumbs from front of ears up to the eyes — tight pressure. CLEANSING CREAM. Almond oil 4 oz. White wax 1 oz. Spermaceti i oz. Put all in double boiler, melt and stir with silver fork until it becomes creamy. Pour into jars and when cooled will be ready for use. SKIN FOOD. Almond oil 4 oz. WTiite wax 1 oz. Spermaceti 1 oz. Cocoanut oil 1 oz. Lanolin i oz. Put all ingredients into a double boiler and when thoroughly heated remove from fire and stir with silver fork until almost cold. Then add few drops of oil of rose. FACE POWDER. Bismuth oxychloride 1 oz. Chalk, prepared, finest 2 J oz. French chalk 5 oz. FACE POWDER. Carbonate of magnesium ^ oz. Pulverized tale 1 lb. Oil of rose 8 drops Oil of neroli 20 drops Extract of jasmin 14 oz. Extract of musk 1 dr. Mix thoroughly and pass through a 100-mesh bolting cloth. FACE BLEACH. Said to resemble Mme. Rupert's. Corrosive sublimate 8 gr. Tincture of benzoin 1 dr. Water q. s. to make 8 oz. Mix, apply night and morning. FOR PIMPLES. Camphor 10 gr. Acacia pul 20 gr. Sulphur precip 2 drachms Lime water -. 2 oz. Rose water 2 oz. Apply to the face upon retiring, let dry and brush off the powder. TO REMOVE BLACKHEADS. Ergotine 6 grammes Oxide zinc 14 grammes Vaseline 60 grammes Wash the face Avith warm water, dry with soft towel, apply ointment on retiring, allow it to remain on all night. MASSAGE MANUAL. 115 ELECTRICAL FACIAL MASSAGE. In addition to the finger manipulation, electric mas- sage has become very popular. It is considered by many to be one of the best stimulants we have. No massage parlor is complete without a battery for this purpose. INSTRUMENTS REQUIRED. The instruments or attachments necessary with the battery are the conducting cords, metal handles, sponge disc, wrist electrode and massage roller. The faradic current is used entirely in the massage work. A two- cell battery is sufficient, and are what are known as dry cells. With ordinary use, cells should last from six to nine months, and when exhausted can be replaced for 50 cents per pair. The battery and attachments must be handled with care. A massage may be given by use of wrist electrode, which conveys a current through the operator, or with the sponge disc or roller. There are a great many manufacturers of batteries all working similar, but the one illustrated here is put up in a wooden case, containing all the attachments necessary and is portable, weighs less than 10 pounds. With a battery of this kind it is impossible to injure the patient or even administer a severe shock. IIG MASSAGE MANUAL. MASSAGE WITH WRIST ELECTRODE. Place the customer comfortably in a chair, with all muscles relaxed; prepare your battery by attaching the conducting cord to the post marked (P), and to the other end attach metal handle and place it in the customer's hand. There will be no benefit in massage unless the patient holds the metal handle. Attaching the other cord to the post marked (N) fasten the wrist band around the wrist of the right hand with a sponge disc (thoroughly wet) on the inside, so that the sponge will come in contact with wrist. This is accomplished by first unscrewing the metal that holds the sponge MASSAGE MANUAL. 117 from the part to which is attached the cord. Place the screw through the hole at one end of the wrist band, and bend the wa*ist band around, making a circle, and put the screw through the slot, at the other end of the band; then replace the part to which the cord is to he attached, which fastens the band in place to be put over the wrist. Slip the hand through the band and tighten enough so that the sponge will be held firmly on the wrist. Attach the cord as shown in illustration; then you are ready to proceed with the massage. Then turn the current on by moving the lever near the post marked (N) from right to left. 118 MASSAGE MANUAL. The buzzing sound will denote the battery in action. Proceed with the movement same as described on pre- ceding pages, using either style that yourself or cus- tomer prefers. It should be remembered that the movement should be enacted as rapidly as possible, and in no case should the battery be in use over 20 minutes. If the cur- rent is not sufficiently strong to be felt by patient, the force may be increased by drawing out the shield at the right of the battery; draw out a short distance at a time, so that the shock will not be severe. Gradually increase the current to sufficient force. By this method the current passes through the operator to patient, connection being formed only as the fingers are placed on face of the patient. MASSAGE WITH THE ROLLER. In using the roller massage in place of wrist electrode, electricity is conveyed direct to the patient, and not through operator. The roller should only be used after completing the work of finger manipulation. De- tach wrist electrode from cord and attach in its place the roller with wooden handle. The patient must hold metal handle attached to sec- ond cord, as formerly described. The connection is formed as soon as the r<^ller is placed on the face, and MASSAGE MANUAL. liU the lever turned to the left, putting the battery in operation. The same buzzing sound denotes the bat- tery in working order. It is essential that the customer is laid back in a comfortable position, to get the best results of the treatment. In using the roller, on the face, roll up and never down, on the same principle that you massage the face. Underneath the eyes, the roller is to be carried lightly in a rounding movement. On the side of the face the lines can be crossed and a little more pressure used. Across the forehead smooth the lines as much as possible by drawing the skin lightly between 120 MASSAGE MANUAL. the thumb and finger of left hand and follow with roller in right hand. The roller should never be used more than ten min- utes. The chamois covering the roller must be soaked in water in order to better convey the electricity. Tt will be well to use cologne water or some scented water, as it will be more pleasant for your patient. Be very careful to use a mild current, otherwise the roller will be an instrument of torturi"* rather than the pleas- ant sensation that is desired. \ k all work the positive pole is the one to be attached t > the roller, or sponge disc. MASSAGE WITH THE SPONGE DISC. The sponge disc should only be used after completing work of finger manipulation. Attach the sponge disc, well soaked in water, to the cord in place of the roller. The roller is to be unscrewed from the wood handle and sponge disc to take its place. Use the handle at- tached to the sponge disc, in the right hand, and go over the entire face in a rotary movement, always work- ing from lower part of the face up. The patient must hold the metal handle as before. It is best to use cold water, and if the face is too soft, a little alum, which helps close the pores and harden the skin, can be used. MASSAGE MANUAL. 121 As this is the last part of the work, before applying the powder cold water is preferable. It is better to have it mildly perfumed. ELECTRIC DEPERATOR. A new form of deperator (which is the cup used with automatic massage), has recentlj ^^een invented, and is so constructed that it allows the use of electric bat- tery while using automatic massage. The work should proceed as in the use of old style cup, except that the patient is to hold the metal handle attached to the battery. The other cord is attached to the deperator. This cord, of course, must be the same to which the wrist electrode, roller or sponge disc has been at- tached. This method affords a pleasant and soothing sensation, while using automatic massage. Electricity being fatal to germs, all danger of disease is averted and impurities of the skin entirely eradicated. 122 MASSAGE MANUAL. FACE POWDER. In all methods of massageing it is best to finish your work with a small amount of pure vegetable powder, applied with a chamois. It will be found very essen- tial that you avoid the cheaper brands, that may do more injury to the skin than benefit. In case you prepare your own powder, it will be well to bolt it several times after being mixed, using a fine mesh bolting cloth. Powder should always be used before the freshly massaged face comes in contact with the outer air or sun. It is well to instruct your patient to remove all powder by thoroughly cleansing the face each night before retiring. The purest substance may often be- come harmful unless this rule is observed. Any of the instruments used in electric massage can be had at the Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Ct., Chi- cago, Ills. VIBRATORY FACIAL MASSAGE. Vibratory Facial Massage is given with an apparatus made for this purpose, and by its use as much work can be accomplished in five minutes as with the ordi- nary finger manipulation in one-half hour. The same precaution should be observed in following the musclee- and lines of the face, as with the finger manipula- tion, and care must be taken not to overdo the work. MASSAGE MANUAL. 123 INSTRUMENTS NECESSARY. The articles necessary in addition to the vibrator are the apparatus for attaching to the electric plug, the motor, a hand-piece and straps, the rubber cup with handles, and hard rubber disc. The hand massage is recommended, but where the rubber cup is desired, it can be attached by a spring at the end of a wire arm. The motion given to the machine is a short vibration, the stroke of which can be lengthened or shortened by an adjustment for that purpose. The motor is hung on springs from an iron stand, and the entire apparatus on rollers, so it can easily be moved from one chair to another as it is needed. The machine must be kept well oiled, with all bolts and screws tightened. Too much care cannot be given this one particular point, as it would soon mean the entire destruction of the machine to neglect this. The straps and pads used for fastening the Rands to the apparatus can be detached and should be washed and sterilized frequently. The rubber cup should be sterilized after each operation. FIRST WORK. Prepare your customer the same as described in former instruction, by application of cream and, if necessary, the use of the automatic massage. 124 MASSAGE MANUAL. Start with having the fingers well anointed in the massage cream, after fastening the right hand to the machine. Take your position on one side of the chair with the apparatus on the other. Place your left hand on the customer's head in such a way as to steady it Start the machine in motion by turning on the elec- tricity, and proceed by allowing the fingers to gently tap the face. Practice will aid greatly in this work. When manipulation is being accomplished by rapid movement of the hand, it affords a very pleasant sensa- tion to the patient as well as the operator. It will MASSAGE MANUAL. 125 be found that only one side of the face can be mas- saged without moving the apparatus or revolving the chair. The ordinary revolving barber chair is best for this purpose, as it is of convenient height and aids the operator to move the patient's face in a better posi- tion to be massaged. The instruments can be had at the Moler Supply House, 39 Peck Court, Chicago, 111. ELECTROLYSIS. Electrolysis is the science of removing superfluous hair, warts, moles and other blemishes by use of the electric needle. It is a science comparatively new to the general world, although one that is old in medical profession. Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes, as far back as 1889, has said about the method: "The employment of electricity for removal of super- fluous hair has stood the test for not less than 13 years by the profession, and the verdict is that it has come to stay. "I well remember the unfriendly criticism of some members of the medical profession who had less knowl- edge of the physics and therapeutics of electricity than some other branch of the medical science. That time of criticism is passed away, and the success of the operation depends upon the skill of the operator. So ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 127 many have proven the competency of the process, that if a failure is recorded the operator and not the method is to be blamed." Closely related to superfluous hair are naevi and other facial blemishes, in the removal of which elec- tricity in some of its modifications serve as principal or an adjuvant. This work since the days of Dr. Hayes has been im- proved upon, although practically the same method is employed. In the use of the apparatus that we recom- mend for this purpose, no harm can come to the pa- tient unless a slight scar, and this can be avoided if the work is done properly. Only carelessness or an entire disregard for instructions on the following pages would be the only cause that would result in any harm. This work has been considered a dangerous opera- tion by many, but with reasonable caution it can be done with as good results by a beginner as by an expert. The principal requirement is a reasonably good sight and steady nerves; not over one-half hour at each sit- ting should be devoted to the work without a rest. In removing superfluous hair from the face one should try to remember that not m'bre than one should be re- moved in the same part of the face. This is to avoid 128 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. inflammation by too many punctures of the needle in close proximity. In order to destroy the hair the needle must enter the follicle, which is the tissue around the hair, and penetrates down the sheath at the aide of the hair to the papilla or root of the hair. The object ia to destroy as little tissue as possible in destroying the hair. The amount of the tissue destroyed depends on the length of time the needle is left in the place. One great trouble in electrolysis is being able to follow the sheath to the papilla, or root, as there are usually sebaceous glands or sacks in which the needle will sometimes find its way in place of following the hair to the root. Another trouble in following the sheath is that the hair does not always grow from the papilla to the surface of the skin in straight lines. It sometimes leaves the skin slanted in a certain direction while the undergrowth is in another. In addition to the treatment of superfluous hair, the electric needle will be found most useful in remov- ing warts, and moles, leaving the surface perfectly smooth and without a scar, if the work is done prop- erly. This method is considered far superior to any other process in cases where no more than one-third of an inch in diameter is to be treated. ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 120 APPARATUS REQUIRED. The galvanic battery is used for this work and should consist of at least six cells. It is so arranged that any number of cells can be used, as the force of the current is required. A connecting plate is so arranged with figures that there is no danger of using too strong a current, when a milder one is desired. One connection, marked (X), and to this one is always at- tached the needle cord. The complete outfit, in addition to the battery, con- sists of two conducting cords, a needle holder, needles of assorted sizes, magnifying glass, tweezers, a sponge disc and one copy of Dr. Hayes' book on Facial Blemishes. 130 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. To this outfit can be added a head light, if satisinc- tory daylight cannot be had. The needle holder is of hard rubber with steel lining, and so constructed that the blades grasp the needle and close on it, holding it in place by means of an inner screw. The conducting cords are composed of fine copper wire, covered with tape, and attached to each end is a metal which is to be inserted in the plate of the battery, and to the sponge disc, on which the patients place their hands while being operated upon. The sponge disc should always be dampened before beginning the operation. The magnifying glass is not always considered essential, but in most cases it will be needed. The forceps are for the purpose of re- moving the hair after the needle has done its work and should have blunt ends. The head light can only be used where electricity is accessible. Needles are of steel, platinum, and in some instances, gold and silver. The steel is preferred for removing superfluous hair, and is the needle with the bulbous end. A sharp needle is more apt to penetrate the sheath, but it is the one used in removing warts and moles. The disc may be made either of sponge or heavy felt, attached to a rubber back, in which the fastener for the cord is attached. The needle is only off'ective while the patient's hand rests upon the elec- ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 131 trode. A reclining chair should be used for this work. FIRST WORK. First place your patient in a comfortable posi- tion and cover with a spread similar to the one used by hairdressers and massuers. This is to protect their garments while being operated upon. As stated previously, if good daylight is not affordable the artificial light must be so arranged that it will shine on every part of the face. When you have the battery in place, on a convenient table with the needles and discs connected, you are ready to work. Be care- ful that the hands are made antiseptic by washing them in a mild solution of formalin. This is very essential and it is also necessary to sterilize all instruments be- fore and after each operation. Place the electrode in the patient's lap, in an easy position to rest the hand upon; at the same time instruct the patient not to place the hand upon it until directed. Connect the cord of the negative electrode, or needle cord, to the number of cells that you wish to use, usually starting with no more than two or three. Take an easy position at the side, or partly in front of the patient, bathe the part of the face to be oper- ated upon with dioxygen by using a small piece of cotton saturated in the fluid. Tlirow the cotton away 132 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. after using. Now pick up the needle holder with the bulbous needle, holding it in the right hand, at the same time taking up the forceps between the second, third and fourth fingers and palm of the same hand, the needle holder being held by the first finger and thumb. The needle is now ready to be inserted at the side of the hair as it emerges from the side of the skin. Allow it to follow the hair until it strikes a slight ob- struction. This is supposed to be the papilla of the hair. ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 133 Now instruct the patient to place the hands on the electrode. This forms a connection and starts the needle in its work of destroying the tissue. If the number of cells you are using are strong enough, oxygen, or a froth- like substance, will appear at the point where the needle is inserted, usually within five or ten seconds from time connection is made. If the oxygen does not make its appearance, the cells are not strong enough, and others must be added until this result is ob- tained. Now, instruct your patient to remove the hand from the electrode, remove the needle, and with the forceps try lightly to remove the hair. The needle can be held in the hand at the same time, or it can be held in the mouth while trying the hair. If the hair does not remove readily the needle should be again inserted. Instruct the subject to place the hands on the electrode again, and in another few seconds try the hair again. If the needle has followed the follicle to the papilla, it should be removed very readily, but if it does not after a second trial use force enough to remove the hair, in- sert the needle, following, as near as possible, the follicle or course of hair. Instruct the patient to lay the hand on the electrode again, and this time you mny be able to reach the papilla, where you have failed pre- viously, and by this insertion the root will be destroyed. 134 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. Dr. Hayes, in his book of Facial Blemishes states: "If the amount of gas disengaged around the needle be great and the appearance of the tissue indicates that there has been such a destruction of tissue as may re- sult in a noticeable scar, or something approximating thereto, it will be wise on your part to desist from operating on the hair. I find, however, that should the hair be allowed to remain, it is quite liable to cause irritation to the sore which results. I therefore re- move the hair, knowing that it will return again, and that in my second attempt my success may be demon- strated by the ease with which the hair is removed." It will be better to insert the needle before directing your patient to lay the hand on the electrode, also be- fore the needle is to be removed. It must be remem- berd that you should not allow the needle to remain long enough to destroy sufficient tissue to form a scar. In case the sheath of the hair and the outer skin are so firm that it is difficult to follow the follicle you will sometimes find it necessary to instruct the patient to lay the hand on the electrode before the needle is in- serted and to pass the needle around the hair to cauterize the cuticle which will allow the hair to be removed, bringing with it the root sheath. The needle can then be inserted in place of the hair to destroy tiie papiUa. The sheath of the hair is not likely to be ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 135 disturbed in pulling the hair from its place, or the sheath may draw part way out and block the entrance. This would make it impossible to reach the papilla. In cases where the hair protrudes in one direction and the root in the other, you will sometimes be able to straighten the course by stretching the cuticle in one direction or another. When in doubt of having reach'^d the root of the hair, it is well to allow the needle to remain as long as it seems safe to do so without caus- ing a scar. If you have not destroyed the hair you will doubtless aid in doing so the next operation. Hair growing in this manner is called lango hair. It is not usually as deep in the roots as in ordinary cases. In connecting the battery the positive plate would destroy the hair as effectively, but there is more dan- ger of leaving a scar. The galvanic current is the only one that can be used effectively in doing the work. In first beginning the practice of electrolysis it would be well to begin by operating upon the arm or some part of the body not as sensitive as the face, and where a slight scar would not be a disfigurement. There are many little points that will be gathered from this prac- tice that cannot be illustrated otherwise. Again quoting Dr. Hayes: "WTien the negative elec- trode is used for electrolysis, as in the cases pre- 136 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. viously stated, we have the action of potassium and sodium hydrates, which destroy the tissue without coag- ulating the albumen. The activity of the caustic alkalies not being interfered with by an insoluble bar- rier of coagulated albumen, causes the tissues to be destroyed to a much greater distance from the needle than as though the positive pole had been used. In addition to the liberation of the caustic alkalies, we have also the appearance of hydrogen, which, on ac- count of its high diffusibility, passes between the inter- stices of the cells and causes a mechanical disintegra- tion of tissue. A certain portion of the hydrogen be- coming mingled with the albuminous fluids of the tis- sues forms a froth which appears around the needle and serves as an index to the strength of the current and the rapidity of the destruction of tissue." After completing your work, which should not be over one-half hour session, treat the part operated on with zinc ointment. A perfectly pure massage cream could be used, but zinc ointment is preferable. In- struct your patient to allow the ointment to remain on the face as long as possible before leaving the room, and to use no soap or water. Until the trace of the needle has disappeared renew the zinc ointment treat- ment twice a day by rubbing it well into the skin. Other portions of the face can be washed as usual. ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 137 Great care must be taken that no substances are allowed to come in contact with the portion of the face that is operated on, that will in any way irritate or poison it, as it will be more likely to end in a soar. If the pain caused your patient is too great using the number of cells required to destroy quickly, lessen the number, but in this case the needle must be left in place longer, in order to do its work. Usually the pain to the patient, on the upper lip, is greater than other parts of the face, but in many instances the fluid from the needle is to be inserted in the follicle before the connection is made. It is best to stretch the skin with the finger and thumb of the left hand, before in- serting the needle. This will help in locating it and lessen the pain. It is best not to remove hairs from the face where there is an eruption. As a rule, from 60 to 100 hairs can be removed per hour, by skilled operators. The length of time for each hair, how- ever, varies according to the condition. Hairs on the upper lip and cheeks can be destroyed in less time than any other place. REMOVING WARTS AND MOLES. In the removal of warts and moles, the same galvanic current is used, but usually with more cells. As a rule, six cells will be necessary for this work, and a sharp- 138 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. pointed needle to fake the place of the bulbous one. Needles for this work are often made of platinum and sometimes of gold. It is generally considered that they lessen the inflammation. There are a great many varieties of moles and warts, but are all treated nearly the same. Prepare your patient the same as for treating superfluous hair, using the same precautions in cleaning the hands, in- struments and part to be operated upon. It is essen- tial in this work that everything be surgically clean. If the mole is covered with hair it is necessary to remove it first in the same manner that has been directed. If in removing the hair the part around the mole be inflamed or reddened, it is not best to proceed imme- diately to remove the mole. In some cases it will re- quire two or three sittings to remove the hair and prepare the mole to be operated upon. After using instruments, it is very essential that you instruct your patient to treat by applying zinc oint- ment, and in several cases it is better not to try to re- move the mole until the effects of the needle are en- tirely eradicated. In removing the mole start at the point about level with the surface and direct the needle straight through, coming out on the oposite side about the same point. Direct your patient to place hand on electrode, and if ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. 139 the current is strong enough, it will be denoted by the changed appearance of the mole and by the bubbles that will appear at the side of the needle. Hold in place thirty seconds. Instruct the patient to remove the hand from the electrode and remove the needle. If the cuticle surrounding the mole has not become much inflamed, proceed again as before, starting at another point, often- times crossing the first puncture. It should not be necessary to work more than five minutes on one mole. It is well to commence with fewer cells and gradually increase until you have a suflQcient number, rather than to try to proceed rapidly. In many cases the moles are not elevated, but are level with the surface of surrounding cuticle. Some are covered with hair and others are not. In port wine marks, which are broken veins, it is often necessary to use a network of needles so fixed that they are the same length and are equal distances apart. They are often joined in sets, as many as twelve on a disc. These can only be used on level surfaces. In other in- stances, the single needles should be used. The usual price for an operation is $1.00 for a half-hour sitting. Among a few dont's that Dr. Hayes suggests for Electrolysis, are the following: "Don't use a sharp-pointed needle. "Don't attach the needle to the positive pole. 140 ELECTROLYSIS MANUAL. "Don't use too strong a current. "Don't continue the current long enough to leave a visible scar. "Don't remove two hairs in close proximity to each other. "Don't attempt to remove a hair near an acne pustule. "IN REMOVING OTHER FACIAL BLEMISHES BY MEANS OF ELECTROLYSIS: "Don't use a blunt-pointed needle. "Don't use too weak a current. "Don't attempt the removal by electrolysis of a rapid- growing vascular naevus of more than one-third inch in diameter. "Don't attempt the cure of acne or rosacea by elec- tricity only. "IN GENERAL. "Don't attempt to use a faradic current for electroly- sis. "Don't use a steel needle with a positive pole. "Don't have the cords too short. "Don't make and break the current in metallic cir- cuit. "Don't have poor connections between the electrodes and the battery. "Don't allow the patient to remove the eschar. "Don't attempt electrolysis in young children." CHIROPODY. Chiropody treats on the ailments of the feet. Actual practice, such as our college provides for its students, is, of course, the best experience. We do not pretend to go deep into the study of anatomy, but rather to give a practical course that will enable one to treat the different diseases in a practical manner. For the sake of enabling the students to understand the cause of the disease they are treating, we will give a brief de- scription of the anatomy of the foot. It will be seen by the following pages that the most frequent causes of the trouble of this kind are in neglect. These ailments are easily combated, and with the proper advice to the patient, permanently cured. The original cause of the corn will also cause its return, no matter how effective the cure may be during the treatment. It is, therefore, essential that you instruct your patient carefully regarding the care of the feet, both in relation to wearing apparel and other causes. Well-fitted shoes is one of the most essential thincrs. Neither too tight or too loose, a well-supported instep and not too high heels. The sole should be reason- ably heavy, but to a certain extent pliable. Patent leather is not to be recommended, as it prevents the circulation that is allowed with the ordinary leather. Try to guard your patient against wearing hosiery with 142 CHIKOPODY MA:NUAL. coloring matter that is poisonous. The fit is as essen- tial as the shoe. Cotton hosiery is the best for all occasions. A chiropody parlor should be furnished with booths or small apartments, well lighted. An easy chair should be provided for the subject, with a low stool for the operator, a foot tub with apparatus for hot and cold water convenient. The greatest danger is in the line of blood poison, and great care should be taken in sterilizing instruments before and after each operation, as well as keeping everything surgically clean in con- nection with the establishment. Dr. Alexander Clark, in his book of Pedic Surgery, gives the following Latin medical terms and definitions. While the study of these is not absolutely necessary in the practice of Chiropody, they are well to under- stand : Abductor pollicis pedis — A muscle of the great toe. Abductor minimi digite pedis — A muscle of the little toe. Aqua — Water. Articulation — The connection of the bones with each other. Astragalus — A short bone of the tarsus, ankle bone. Calcisos — The largest bone of the heel. CHIROPODY MANUAL. 143 Cuneiformos — A name applied to three bones of the tarsus. Cuboidesos — A tarsal bone of the foot. Clavus durus — Hard corn. Clavus mollis — Soft corn. Digiti — Toes. Digitalis pedis — A toe. Dorsum pedis — Back of the foot. Douche — In therapeutics, a dash of water. Extensor — To extend. Fibio tarsal articulation — The articulation of the foot with the leg. Flexor — To bend. Flexor brevis digitorum pedis perforatus — A flexor muscle of the toe situated at the middle part of the foot. Flexor longus pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the great toe, situated at the posterior part of the leg. Flexor brevis pollicis pedis — A flexor muscle of the great toe, situated at the anterior and the middle part of the sole of the foot. Hydropathy — Water cure. Gastrocnemius — Largest muscle on posterior of leg. Integument — To cover or envelope. Interossei pedis — The small muscles situated between the metatarsal bones. I 144 CHIROPODY MANUAL. Invclucrum — The sould bone or case that encloses the desid bone. Lochia — cleansing. Metatarsus — A term applied to the several bones of the foot. Metatarsal os — Consists of five small bones, one to each toe. Musculus — A muscle. Muscular fibre — The fleshy fibre which forms the body of the muscle. Muscular arteries — Arteries that distribute to the muscles. Muscular veins — Veins that bring back the blood car- ried to the muscles by the muscular arteries. Muscular motion — Motion caused by contraction of the muscles. Naviculare os — Two bones of the instep. Necrosis — A state of the bones where it is deprived of life, it is popularly known as fever sore. Onyxis — An ingrowing or inverted toe nail. Ostitis — Inflammation of the bone. Pernio — A chilblain. Pernio simplex — A chilblain in which the skin is unbroken. Pernio exulceratus — A chilblain accompanied with ul ceration. ClllROrODY MANUAL. 145 Pediluvium — Foot bath. Phalanges — Toes. Plantar planaris — From planta the sole of the foot. Plantar arteries — Two arteries, an external and an internal, arising from the external of the posterior tibial. Plantar ligaments — The inferior ligaments of t he tarsus and metatarsus. Rete mucosum— A term applied to a supposed mucous substance between the cuticle and the true skin. Scaphoid— A bone situated in the fore part of the foot. Sesamoid — ^Bones of the great toe. Tarsal articulation — The union of the tarsal bones. Tarso extensor minor — The plantaris muaole. Tarso metatarsal minor — The plantaris muscle. Tarso metatarsal — In anatomy the articulations which connect the second row of bones of the tarsus and the metatarsal bones; also the ligaments, distinguished into dorsal and plantar, by which articulations are secured. Tarsophyma — An operation for the removal of the tarsus cartilage. Tibia — The large bone of the leg. Unguis — Nail. Vesicatorium — A blister. 146 CHIROPODY MANUAL. BHIEF ANATOMY OF THE FOOT. The Bones. The tarsus (instep) is composed of seven bones. The metatarsal bones are five in number. They articulate with the tarsal bones at one extremity, and the pha- langes (toe bones) at the other range. The tarsal and metatarsal bones are so united as to give the foot an arched form. This gives elasticity to the step and the spring of the arch prevents injury. The phalanges of the foot is composed of fourteen bones. The small toes have three ranges of bones, while the large toe has but two. The tarsus (instep) is composed of the following bones: The astragalus os calcis, os naviculare, oa cu- boidea and the three cuneiform bones, called os cunei- form medium. Metatarsus consists of five small bones placed between the tarsus and the phalanges. The sesamoid bones are found at the articulation of th.e, great toe. Articulations are the parts where any two or more bones that are to play on each other come in contact. To give strength to the articulation fibrous bands, called ligaments, bind one bone to another. Sprains and dislocations are mainly caused by false steps or movements by which the articular ligaments are torn or violently stretched. Negligence and im- proper care for blows or sprains on the joints is liable CHIROPODY MANUAL. 147 to endanger life. The joint may become inflamed, water will be liable to form in them and the bones thicken and the disease known as white swelling be the result. The seven bones of the tarsus are so arranged as to form the strongest support to the body and elastic arch. The most important of these bones is the as- tragalus. This bone, with the tibia and fibula, form the ankle joint; its semicircular head forms a complete pul- ley; it rolls under the articulating surface of the tibia and fibula, and the groove, from its boat -like shape, into which it enters, is called the scaphoid cavity. The at- tention of the reader is called to the articulation of the OS naviculare or scaphoid bone. The phalanges (the toes) consist of fourteen bones in each foot, viz.: Plantar muscle, the extensor tarsi minor, the plantaris. Plantar nerves: Two nerves, an external and internal, proceeding from the posterior tibial, the internal to the outer side of the fourth and fifth and to the muscles situated on the side of the foot. MUSCLES. The following are the names of the muscles that flex, or move, the ankles, feet and toes: Tibialis anticus, used to flex the foot and turn it obliquely inward; ex- tensor longus pollicis, used to extend the great toe; extensor longus digitorum, used to extend the toes; per- oneus tertius forms a part of the extensor longus and 148 CHIROPODY MANUAL. goes to the little toe. The gastronemius, used to extend the foot; popliteus, to flex the leg; flexor longus digi- torum, used to extend the foot; Tibialis posticus, used to extend the foot; peronous longus, used to extend the foot and turn it outward; peroneus brevis, used to ex- tend the foot and turn it outward. The forenamed twelve muscles of the leg flex, or extend the foot or toes. The following are the names of twelve muscles of the foot — extend, draw or flex the toes and joints: The first two on the dorsum the last ten on the sole. The extensor brevis digitorum originates in outer part of the 08 caleis, inserted and expands over the toes, and is used to extend the phalanges. Interossei dorsales occu- pies the interosseal spaces, used to extend the toes. Abductor poUicis has its origin on the os caleis and the annular lig is inserted in the first phalanx of great toe and is used to draw the great toe from the others. Mus- cular accessorius used to flex the toes. Lumbricalis, used to flex the first joint of the great toe. Abductor polli- cis used to bring the great toe toward the rest; flexor brevis versalis pedis, used to draw the toe together. Interossei plantaris occupy the interosseal spaces and adduct the toes. SELECTION AND CARE OF TOOLS. Good tools are as essential in this profession as any work we teach and it is advisable to use only the best. CHIROPODY MANUAL. 149 Many chiropodists prefer using a great many knives of different varieties, but experience has taught us that it is better to use as small a variety as possible in order to become more familiar with each instrument. HONES. The best hones we have found for sharpening chirop- odist's instruments is the Cuban clay, a very convenient size is from 2 to 4 inches long and from 1 to 2 inches wide. Hones for flesh-cutting instruments must be of the coarser variety than those used by barbers, but not as coarse as those used to sharpen most edged tools, this making them difficult to select. NAH. NIPPEKS. The Nail Nipper should be strong and with a spiral spring. They are for cutting heavy nails and almost indispensable. CHISEL KNIFE. This is a very convenient instrument for fine work and should not be used on heavy callouses or nails. One end has a sharp cutting edge with the other blunt and rounded for work on soft corns. 150 CHIROPODY MANUAL. TWEEZERS. Tweezers are important in lifting small particles of cuticle as it is being removed, also for handling small bits of medicated cotton. SHEARS. The shears must be made of solid steel and of the beat grade, as they are very delicately constructed, and for the work required of them would be useless in t^o cheaper grades. SCAPULA. This is an instrument that must be selected with care. The metal should be of the highest grade of steel that will not be affected by acids. The handle should be of material that can be placed in boiling water without^ being affected. CHIROPODY MANUAL. 151 OPERATING KNIFE. The most useful instrument is the operating knife, which can be used for nearly every purpose. The scapula is a longer blade, with single edge and is intended for stronger work or heavier callouses. It is also useful in scraping nails or splitting ingrown nails. The shears should be of strong, heavy construc- tion, very short and with bent blades, similar to the manicuring shear, except that it should be much stronger. They are intended for trimming the nails, cutting padding, chamois, etc. They are also used for trimming cuticle in pedicuring and removing particles of callouses and dead cuticle. Instruments can be sterilized by dipping in a mild solution of carbolic acid. Solution should be about 10 per cent. In addition to this, they should be dipped in boiling water after a bad operation. They may also be passed quickly through a gas flame, but care should be taken that they are not left long enough to heat suf- ficiently to spoil the temper. The diseases of the feet that we will herein describe are hard corns, soft corns, bunions, ingrowing toe nails, callouses, excessive perspiration. HARD CORNS. First soak the feet from five to ten minutes in a foot tub of water as hot as bearable, which is intended to soften the corn and remove inflammation. Place your- 152 CHIROPODY MANUAL. self on the stool in front of your subject. Take the foot from the tub and wipe thoroughly. Hold the toe between the first finger and thumb of the left hand and the knife with the right hand, and remove thin layers of the callouses by cutting towards you and be- ginning in the center. Trim the flesh with the knife i( HARD CORNS. until it feels soft and pliable, being very cautious nSt to cut deep enough to draw blood. Leave the outer CHIROPODY MANUAL. 153 surface smooth. When all callous has been removed, apply vaseline or mutton tallow prepared with a small preparation of sweet oil. Apply by rubbing well into the corn with a circular movement, or from the nail back. After all substance has been absorbed, you are ready for padding. Prepare your padding by first tak- ing a very thin piece of cotton, laid perfectly smooth over the afflicted part and held in place by a very little collodion at the edges. Prepare a chamois pad by cut- ting a small piece off of your chamois skin, just large enough to cover the corn and cotton. Cut it round and then fold double and cut a small piece out of the center. When unfolded it will be perfectly round and you should be careful not to get it too large or too small to fit the case. In some cases, two thicknesses will be necessary. This is to be held in place by a narrow adhesive strip fastened both above and below. SOFT CORNS. In this treatment^ soak the feet the same as with the hard corn and wipe as before. Soft corns always appear between the toes, and usually caused from moisture either from perspiration or not sufficiently drying be- tween the toes after bathing the feet. They come in the form of a blister and are covered with a white or yellow skin, which must be removed with the knife as shown in cut. Spread the toes apart (54 GHIROPODY MANUAL. SOFT CORNS. with the finger and thumb and remove the top layer by working the knife under the cuticle and removing small pieces at a time, using the shears to detach the cuticle as it is loosened or in many cases, tweezers are neces- sary. Great care must be used not to cut too deep and draw the blood, as, in the former cases, here lies the danger of blood poison. Use Ointment No. 2, as ex- CHIROPODY MANUAL. 155 plained in the following pages, which is principally composed of vaseline and oxide of zinc. A sufficient amount of this to soften the cuticle should be left be- tween the toes. Prepare a small piece of cotton to put between the toes by taking it between the finger and thumb and pulling it smooth and thin so that it will not roll into a hard lump and cause irritation. Treat- ment should be given once a week, at least, and in bad cases, every third day until relieved. BUNIONS. Bunions usually appear on the second joint of the big toe or at the base of the little toe, usually the former. Soak, the same as in the former case, and trim with the scapula, if callous appears. Remove all signs of such. Treat with a solution of equal portions of Iodine and Belladonna. Apply w'ith camel's hair brush. If any inflammation, apply a softening solution, the same as used for soft corns. Prepare your padding the same as in the ease of hard corns, oftentimes using two and fcliree thicknesses of chamois in bad cases. Prepare cotton in the same form as chamois as shown in cut. The usual cause of bunions is wearing shoes that are too narrow and this cause must be removed before you can effect a cure. It may be caused also by wear- ing shoes that are too short and the constant jar ot 156 CHIROPODY MANUAL. PADDING. walking injures the joint. In severe cases, where pus appears, it should be poulticed with flaxseed or bread and milk until all inflammation is removed. After being poulticed a sufficient length of time to bring the pus to the surface, usually a few days, remove the poultice and extract the pus>, Treat with your CHIROPODY MANUAL. 157 antiseptic solution and pad as described. The idea of padding around the bunion is to remove the pressure of the shoe at the immediate point afflicted. INGROWN TOE NAILS. This affliction is usually limited to the great toe, al- though sometimes it affects the small ones. The first treatment is to raise the side or corner that is causing INGROWN TOE NAILS. 158 CHIROPODY MANUAL. the irritation by lifting it as much as possible with the orange stick, the same as used for manicuring pur- poses, and gently work cotton under the edge. Work as much cotton underneath the nail as it will allow without causing pain and thoroughly antisept the af- flicted part by bathing well with a mild solution of car- bolic acid or peroxide. Remove the cotton and put in fresh, dry cotton in its place. Never trim the edge of the nail that is growing in, as it causes it to continue to grow in that direction. Cut your nail straight across the end and notch V shape in the center as deep as the cuticle will allow; also scrape the top of the nail from the notch to the base of the nail, allow- ing the nail to contract or grow to the center in place of the side. In severe cases, it may be found neces- sary to split the nail near the afflicted edge as far back as the inflammation appears. In case pus appears, poultice the same as the bunion and remove all in- flammation before treating further. In case of pus always treat well with the antiseptics before trimming and treating the nail. CALLOUSES. Callouses, except as spoken of in connection with corns and bunions, appear on the bottom of the foot and form a thick fibre that must be removed before at- tempting to effect a cure. Remove the callous with the CHIROPODY MANUAL. 150 scapula a little at a time, being careful not to cut tuo deep. Remove all signs of dead cuticle and trim until the pink surface appears. The blade of the knife should be held as flat as possible to avoid cutting too deep. CALLOUSES. Use antiseptic and softening salve, the same as used for hard corns and pad the same as for bunions. Great care must be used in fastening padding, by using more 160 CHIROPODY MANUAL. adhesive strip across the bottom and around on each side of the foot. Padding is more liable to be dis- turbed on the bottom of the foot than on bunions, and sufficient adhesive must be used to keep it in place. CHILBLAINS. Chilblains and frost bites of long standing can be entirely eradicated by constant bathing in witch hazel or a solution as given in the following pages. Fresh frost bites or open sores caused from chil- blains should be treated first with antiseptics and later with the solutions, applied frequently. ARTICLES USED IN CHIROPODY. Absorbent Cotton, Chamois, Carbolic Acid, Iodine, Oxide of Zinc, Monsell's Solution, Colodion, Vaseline, Sub-Sulphate of Peroxide of Hy- Tannin, Iron, drogen, Adhesive Strip, RECIPES FOR CHIROPODY. For Perspiring Feet. i oz. Tannin in one quart of water. Apply with sponge. For Soft Corns. Vaseline and Oxide of Zinc. Equal parts. For Ingrown Toe Nails. Monsell's Solution. Prepared at any drug store. CHIROPODY MANUAL. 161 For Sterilizing Instruments. 10 per cent, solution of carbolic acid. Antiseptic, Peroxide of Hydrogen is used for antiseptic, also to stop bleeding. Sub-sulphate of iron is also used to stop bleeding, where bleeding is profuse. For Bunions. Iodine, 1 dr.; Belladonna, 1 dr. For Foot Powder. Flower of Sulphur, 2 oz.; Boracic Acid, 4 oz. ; Tal- cum, 6 oz. ; makes a good foot powder and corrects bad odor. Corn Salve. 1 oz. Beeswax, 2 oz. Sweet Oil, 12 drops of Turpen- tine. Heat Oil and Wax, add Turpentine when almost cold. For Chilblains. 1 pt. Vinegar, 1 pt. Alcohol, 1 oz. Muriate of Am- monia. 162 CHIROPODY MANUAL. POULTICE FOR REMOVING INFLAMMATION. Use a small sack, partly filled with hops, boiled a short time in hot water. Apply to affected part for re- movincr inflammation. FLAX SEED POULTICE. Sufficient amount of linseed meal boiled in water to thicken; stir well while boiling. Put in cloth and apply to affected part as hot as possible. LOTION FOR ULCERS AND CHILBLAINS. Spirits of rosemary 1 dr. Laudanum 1 dr. Distilled lead water 1 oz. Applv with bandages. OINTMENT FOR ULCERS. Almond oil 1 dr. Boracic acid 1 dr. White wax 1 dr. Vaseline 1 oz. Mix and apply. THE MOLER BARBER SIPPLY tlOlSE 39 PECK CO URT ^ Everything in tools, cutlery and cosmetics at CUT RATES RAZORS JACKETS SHEARS BRUSHES COMBS BAY RUM HONES SEA FOAM STROPS CREAM CLIPPERS TONICS AGENTS FOR THE BEST. MASSAGE VIBRATOR MADE. Write for free catalogue. 39 PECK COURT CHICAGO, ILLINOIS JAN 27 1996 «/ 306 90 t-» r 9^. ^ ^^. * >"0 © « ^.^ ^°^ • . I - .0 ^o. kPvN a,* -^ A^ ♦ • I t V.^'^ w ' « »° 0-^ ^^ o ■ • 'V.9'^' * HECKMAN BINDERY INC. k JUL 90 N. MANCHESTFR liiliipiSil'iiiilijSIp LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 084 333 7