LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 
 
 Chap. Copyright No. 
 
 Shell ^H^ 
 
 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
, « * 
 
IVIY VOYAGE 
 
 AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 / 
 
 BY W. L. FOSDICK. 
 
 Portraying life on the Ocean as it was sixty years ago. 
 Interesting and instructive reminiscences of travel and 
 adventure on l^nd and sea, extending over a per- 
 iod of seven and one-hall' years, including a de- 
 scription of whaling, and the experiences of 
 three years spent with the natives of 
 the South Pacific 
 
 ■The seal the sea ! the open sea 
 
 The blue, the fresh, the ever free 
 
 Without a mark, without abound, a *i /\£a i i P ^ I^ 
 
 It runneth the earth's wide regions round. ' w v/ y ^ L** -"^ 
 
 It plays with the clouds; it mocks the skies; 
 
 Or like a cradled creature lies." 
 
 —Barry Cornwall. 
 
 SHAWANO. WIS.. 
 WTEOAXD .^ ESSKR, PTlIXTFTiS. 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 To gratify the wishes of my Chihlren and Grandchildren 
 this work was undertaken; and to them it is affectionately 
 dedicated, by The Author. 
 
 CTPYEIGHTEri, 
 
PREFACE 
 
 HEN I begnn writing the sketches of my early life 
 emboflied in this volume, I did not intend them 
 fo^' pnblicntion. At the request of m^^ children 
 nnd grnndchildreii, T undertook to prepare for them a sim- 
 ple narrative of my ti'&vels on land and sea, without the 
 emhplli-slunents of the book-maker's art. Simply something 
 they-couJd read and keep in remembrance of me and as a 
 relic of my boyhood days. 
 
 But as I continued to write until my manuscript as- 
 sumed coQsiderable proportions, my family and friends 
 persuaded me to re-write the whole and put it in shape 
 for rhe press. The result is herewith submitted to the con- 
 sideration of the reading public. 
 
 This book is a faithful record of my personal experience 
 and observation, and if he who reads for information shall 
 feel himself repaid when he has finished its pages, I shall 
 d^em that my best reward. 
 
 It is a great source of pleasure and satisfaction to me to 
 have seen the wonders of nature, and to know that God in 
 his providence has provided for the sustenance of his 
 children of every race and degree, high and low, in every 
 land and chme. W. L. FOSDICK. 
 
 Shawano, Wis., January 20, 1897. 
 
^y ¥dyagd Arounil the Globe. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM T^AKE COUNTY TO THE EQUATOR. 
 
 Opening scenes— A friend Ht Albanj'— The whaleship Margaret Scott— Capt. 
 Plaskett. the ' Old Hor»e"— The stiirt from New Bedford— Making Marline- 
 Purpoi>e fi-ihing-Flying fish— Sailors' laws— Cape de Verde Islands— Capt. 
 Plaskeit has tremens— CrOHsing the equator— Neptune initiates a subject 
 —Incidents and anecdotes. 
 
 I was born in the northern part of the state of New York, 
 in the year 1823. The following year my parents removed 
 to Lake county, Ohio. Here my mother died when I was 
 about seven years of age, and my father followed her about 
 seven years later. 
 
 Tlit^ following year, at the age of fifteen, I had deter- 
 mined to fee more of the phmer, on which we live, and pre- 
 pared to go to sea. My guardian, B-Tijamia Blish by name, 
 and a very worthy g.^ntleman, tried to persuarle me to re- 
 main at school. Friends joine;! him in the effort to over- 
 come resolution by portraying the dangers and hardships 
 of a seaman's life. But I had made up my mind to see 
 something of the other side of the world. 
 
 In conversation with a gentleman by the name of 
 Packard, I had made my wishes known. He had formerly 
 resided at Nantucket, a great whaling port at the time of 
 which I write. He wrote to some ship owners for me. In 
 reply they stated that they had several fine ships fitting 
 out for sea, wanted men and boys and could give me a 
 berth. My uncle was captain of a v^essel on Lake Erie and 
 
{] MY VOYAGE AROUND THE (il.OCE. 
 
 I had passage with him from Lalse county to Buffalo. N Y. 
 lie tried to dissuade me from my purpose, but my mind was 
 unalterably fixed and T continued my journey, y\ii the Erie 
 canal to Albany. 
 
 While crossiQ,2,' a drawbridge at the latter place, an old 
 Eaglishm in wlio attended the draw and run a little peanut 
 stand, hniled me and the following dialogue ensued: 
 
 •'.V[/ la 1, where are you going?" 
 
 "1 am goin.^; on a whaling voyage," 
 
 " Wiiere are you from ?" 
 
 "Oh'o." 
 
 "What part of the state?" 
 
 "Faii'poi't." 
 
 "Wiicvb is yoar name?" 
 
 '•Fosdiclv." 
 
 '•What! Colonel Fo.^dick's son?" 
 
 "Yes, sir." 
 
 "I knew yon I' i'a,ther wt-ll " 
 
 He took an interest in me at once, and finally said: "If 
 you are short of money, I will get a m;in to take charge of 
 you; you will not have to pay anything until you are on 
 board of a ship, then it will be charged to you and deducted 
 from your wages." I thought that would be all right. He 
 went on board the steamer Knickerbocker with me and 
 talked w^ith one of the officers who took me in <.'harge. At 4 
 o'clock p. m. w>^ w.ive under way en route for Nevv York where 
 we arrived the following morning at 9 o'clock. 
 
 Tlie officer went with me across the city to whei'e the 
 shipping offi :'es were located oa the E ist River side, a dis- 
 tM.nce of about three miies from where the steamer landed. 
 Above the door, of the office we entered, a strip of canvass 
 was stretched d sp'^ying the pietni'e of a wi.ala and the 
 wonls, "Whalemen Wanted." The officer talked vdch the 
 man at the desk, received some nioaey (my fare on the 
 
:my voyage arouxb the globe. 7 
 
 steiaiPT I presume) and went aw;iy. The man then asked 
 my name, and when I told him replied: "That is my name, 
 we ar-e (tonnepted, and I know sevei-al mnriners by the n^me 
 o^ Fo-idick." The office was nicely fitted up including a fine 
 libraiT. He directed me to a place on Cherry street where 
 I could board until he had secured more men, then we would 
 proceed to New Bedford. About four weeks later, in com- 
 pany with eleven other.s, I was sent on to New Bedford. The 
 steam ^r \Va«!hinf>'ton took us as far as Stonington, R. I., 
 when we took the c m-h aii I finished the journey by rail. We 
 found them f'n<^,i,'i,vd in coppering the bottom of our vessel, 
 and we staid at a board in,^ house six weeks before she was 
 rei.dy for se.i. She was a four boat ship fitted out for a 
 four years' vo3^age. 
 
 The ship was named .VI ir^aret Scotc, aft ?r the wife of 
 General Winfiela Si.^ott, and the figurehead was a lifedike 
 representation of thie head and bust of that lady. Splendid 
 life-size portraits of (Jenpra.l Scott and wife reclining under 
 a cinopy copTposed of American flags and the national coat 
 ol' arms a/1'^rned the stern. 
 
 Tlie captain, Willjam Plaskett, v.as a rough, drmking 
 man. but his reputation as a lucky whaleman always se- 
 cured him a ship. Ilewoaldwilk around in the shipping 
 office and, in the hearing of sailors, would say to Mr. Park- 
 hurst, one of the owners: 'T want you to ship me good 
 men, for 1 ani a. horse !'' — "Hell afloat,'' and other remarks 
 of like import. Among those who heard him were six sail- 
 ors who made up their minds to ship with him and arrange 
 a little program for his benefit. When all the details of fit- 
 ting had been completed and the ship had hauled out into 
 the Kay ready for the start, these men came alongside in a, 
 boat by themselves. One of them climbed onto the 
 deck and the others passed him a. number of articles not 
 oand in the ratalo2:ue of a whaiem.vn's outfit. These in- 
 
8 MY VOYAGE AROL^'D THE GLOBE. 
 
 c'ndpd a saddle; a bridle; n, pair of spurs; a heavy whip and 
 a bundle of hay. The CMpfcfiin was walking on the quarter 
 deck at the time, in company with the pilot and officers. 
 When his eye caught the layout piled on deck, he stopped 
 short and vipw,^d it with astonishment. "What do you 
 mean by bringing that rigp^ing on board ship?" he demand- 
 ed. One of the men stepped forward and said: "We heard 
 you say you are a horse;~we intend to do our duty as men, 
 and if you do not do yours as master of the ship, we will 
 s iddle you, put the bits in your mouth, ride you with whip 
 and spur, and feed you on that bundle of hay." When I 
 say that Capt. Plaskett wan angry, I put it mild, but he 
 had to !«;wallow his wrath and content himself with ordering 
 them to go ashore, declaring that he would not go to sea 
 with such men. Of course, they expected this and went will- 
 ingly. We were delayed two days g.-tting men to fill their 
 plaites. 
 
 When the ship's onipany was complete there wei-e foi ty- 
 three persons on board. The crew numbered thirty-two, 
 and the passenger list eleven, to wit: A cai-penter and his 
 wife, bourn] for the island of Tahiti, one of the Society 
 group; four Mormon missionaries, bound for South Pacific 
 points, and a Dr. Winslow, wife, two children and servant 
 girl, bound for the island of Mauee, one of the Hawaiian 
 group, to take charge of a hospital under government ap- 
 pointment. 
 
 It was on the Gth day of October, 1888, that we sailed. 
 We soon left the headlands of Buzzards Bay astein, the 
 broad Atlantic with its mysteries, its dangers and attrac- 
 tions lay before us, and our good ship made obeisance to 
 Noptune as she felt the heavy ground swell of old ocean. 
 
 This Wiis the first vr)yage fo S'veral of the crew and they 
 were seasick. The passengers succund)ed to the inevitable 
 and did not show themselves for nearly' n week. The second 
 
^fV VOYAOE AROriXI* THE fiLORE. 
 
 (l;iy out \ve8a\v;ilnrge wbaleship on the wind, homeward 
 bound. She looked ^rand with all sail spread to the breeze. 
 Some of onr men would have given most anything^ to have 
 been on board of her. Sea.'^icknes.s had resulted into home- 
 sickness, but they had to stand it. Ifter crossing the gulf 
 stream, we ran into fine weather. The green hands had i-e- 
 covered from seasickness, were getting their "sea leo-s" on 
 and everything began to move ship shape. 
 
 When we had l)een out three weeks, we had become ac- 
 quainted with each other. Parley B. Pratt, one of the mis- 
 sionaries, was a very good story teller and liked to mingle 
 with the sailors Another of these missionaries was nearly 
 dead with consumption when he came on board at New 
 Bedford and when we had been out about four weeks, he 
 died Farther on, in portraying the details of a sailor's 
 life, I include a description of a burial at sea and will omit 
 it liere. 
 
 We, the new hands, had learned some sailor phrases; 
 could box i-hecompMss; steer our trick at the wheel; tie 
 some of the sailor k»»ots; go up the ratlines in seaman-like 
 style, and began to consider ourselves "old salts". When 
 not engaged in attending to the regular routine of ship 
 duty, we were kept busy unlaying old standing rigging, i.e., 
 pull out tlie rope yarns, knot them together and wind them 
 in balls, preparatory to making spun yarn or marline. The 
 mirlia? is mi b by twisting thre3 strands of rop9 yarn to- 
 gether with a contrivance called a wench. This consists of 
 a long woorlen spindle with an iron hook at the outer end, 
 driven by a balance wheel attached to the windlass bits. 
 One man turns the wench and one man attends to the 
 twisting, rubbing the marline with a piece of tarred parsling 
 as he spins. The marline is used for baling the whalebone; 
 seizing and sei-ving nhe rigging, etc. Then we had sails to 
 
10 MY VOYAriE AROUND THE (ILOBE. 
 
 TTieiul, chafing g'ear to put on, etc. In short, plenty of work 
 first, last, and all the time. A certain old lady once said to 
 nie: "La, sakes ! I thought sailors had nothing to do but 
 sit down and let the wind blow 'em around." Otliers ni;iy 
 entertain the same idea but it is a mistake. 
 
 One day as we were nearing the Cape Verde islands, with 
 a. stiff breeze on our starboard quarter, we saw a school of 
 porpoises making for the ship. They love to phiy in the 
 foam and spray under the bows, and tumble in the billows 
 rolled up l)y a ship when she is sailing fast. But indulgence 
 in this pastime often costs a porpoise his life. A man goes 
 out on the maniugale guys with a sort of spear called a 
 grains, consisting of one tine with a jointed flange, orbeaixl 
 that opens after it is thrust into the fish and holds him 
 firndy impaled until landed on deck. The pan of the lower 
 jaw contains a fatty su'bstance that yields uearlj^ its bulk 
 in oil of very superior quality, for lubricating delicate ma- 
 chinery such as watches, clocks, etc. The flesh hashed with 
 pork makes vi-i-y good eating, and is sometimes used. 
 
 Schools of flying fish are seen frequently in these seas. 
 They usually appear shooting out from the crest of a wave, 
 and do not s.^cm to be able to rise readily from the flat sur- 
 fa(ie of the water during a calm. Their flight induced by 
 the app:>ai'an('e of so;ne enemy, no doubt, is short, seldom 
 exceeding ten rods, if not carried farther by the wind. They 
 are sometimes bh)vvn on board ship. We caught two in 
 this way. The wings make nice book marks. 
 
 Onboard ship sailors have laws of their own that are 
 rrgi<lly enforced. A little incident in point occurred about 
 this time. It is the rule for every man to leave his chest 
 unlocked while out at sea, and woe to the man caught steal- 
 ing from his shipmates. A number of us had missed cer- 
 tain articles and laid it to a big Irish Canadian. We ap- 
 pointed a man to search. First the chests were overhauled 
 
MY VOYAOE AT^OT \n THE GLORE. 11 
 
 witlioiit sncoess. Then we beo^m to er arch the persons 
 nnd when we came to the Canaiian he objected, but we hehl 
 him MTid found two stolen knives. A search oli his bedding 
 Mud mnttress disclosed two shirts, a revolver and some oth- 
 er small nrticles. He might better have gone to prison. 
 Every sailor was down on him. He hardly dared open his 
 mouth — got a slap in the face 'vhenever he did. They abus- 
 ed him with kicks and cuffs, and the tirst port we made he 
 was put ashore. 
 
 ''Land, ho!" rang out from the masthead. We had been 
 out six weeks, and this was the first time we had heard this 
 call. The land in sight was the Island of St Nicholas, one 
 of the Cape de Verde group. We approached the shore and 
 laid off and on. One small boat went ashore with the cap- 
 tain, and the doctor and his wife. They hired donkeys and 
 rode out into the country to see the sights. Retuining in 
 the evening they brought some oranges and bananas, and 
 the sailors brought some stone bottles filled with cocoanut 
 rum, called by the Portugese "angadent." It caused quite 
 a riot amoag the oHicprs and sailors. We sailed that night, 
 and the next morning found ourselves off St. Jago, a larger 
 island of the same givjup. We went ashore with th^ pas- 
 sengers. This time the captain picked a new boats' crew 
 that he thought would not be so likely to buy rum. I was 
 one of tliosp sebcted. The population appeared to be large- 
 ly copTpo-;ed of mixed Portugese and negro blood, only 
 partially civilizerl. (Children entirely nude, some of them as 
 old as twelve or fourteen years were playing in the sand. I 
 think our lady passengers were somewhat embarrassed. 
 We staiil about six hours and set sail. 
 
 Our Tap tain was about the hardest looking specimen of 
 humanity 1 ha^e ever seen. Dark, swarthy complexion and 
 voice like a ro.n'ing lion. He had six barrels of New Eng- 
 
12 MY VOYAfiE AROFXT) THE CJEOBE. 
 
 Innrl rnm in the run under the cabin, and was ''full'* most of 
 the time. The sailors had no love for him. 
 
 Christmas day we were near the equator and the weather 
 was very hot. We had sprung our main topmast and were 
 engfi.ged in rhe work of sendinq; up a new one. ''Old horse," 
 as the sailors called him, stood looking up and bellowingat 
 the men. All of a sudden he dropped as though he had 
 been shot. Didn't even have to say: "I've got 'em!'' but 
 that was what was the matter. He had the tremens. He 
 was carried into the cabin and Dr. Winslow thought he 
 would die, but in less than three weeks he was on deck again 
 to the evident disappointment of the sadors. 
 
 About this time 1 had my iirst experience with tooth- 
 ache. The mate told me the captain had a pair of turnkeys 
 to pull teeth, and T had better go to him. I ventured to 
 approach him and say: "Captain, could you yjull a tooth 
 forme?" "Yes," he thundered, "pull every d—d tooth in 
 your head!" It frightened meso that I did not have tooth- 
 ache again for a w^eek, then I got Mr. Rogers, one of the 
 missionaries, to pull it for me. 
 
 As we approached the line, the passengers began to talk 
 among themselves, wondering if old Neptune would make 
 us a visit. The second mate overheard them and told them 
 that, as the crew included a number of new subjects, it would 
 be Neptune's duty to come on board and initiate them into 
 the m3^steries of a. seaman's life, where we touched the equa- 
 tor. All were anxious to witness the services, could think 
 of nothing but Neptune's prospective visit, and w^ere con- 
 stantly on th^ lo )koat for him. 
 
 At last their long, tedious Wcitch was abruptly termin- 
 ated. A heavy voice rising apparently from the ocean, 
 shouted: "Ship, ahoy! What ship is this?" The second 
 mate replied: "The Margaret Scott." "Are there any sub- 
 jects on board for Neptune?" "Yes, we have one." "Then 
 
M\ VOYAdK AliOrXl) TIIK (iLOl?!-:. 1 :i 
 
 prepjire for the services." And Neptune appeared above the 
 ni<»ht-head, speaking* trumpet in hand, and stepped upon 
 the deck. He was about sixieet in hight, with broad shoul- 
 ders and a grurf voice. A mat of rop^ yarns enveloped him 
 from waist to feet, and a fringe of same hung from collar to 
 waist. Alight duck mask painted reel, with black mus- 
 tache, whiskers and eyebrows, covered his face. Above this 
 towered a tall Ciip, bearinj? the word, "Neptune." His belt 
 held a cutlass, and the speaking trun^pet after he had 
 reached the (leek. (JIad in sm*h paraphernalia, he was a 
 horrible looking obHr'ct, well caFlcu•la^ted to strike terror to 
 tlie heart-s of tTie uninttiate'J, as he displayed his razor 
 (piece of hoop-iron) and mug (bucket of ''slush"). 
 
 Tile cannon was dismounted without delay, Neptune 
 seated himself upon the carriage and was drawn aft to the 
 main hatch by six sturdy sailors. 
 
 The program had be^^n arranged on the quiet, for fun, 
 and the amusement of tiie passengers. Formerly, subjects 
 were often put through dangerous ordeals, and keel-hauling 
 sometimes resulted in drowning:J,)ut now the naval laws 
 forbade doing anything to injure the person. 
 
 The rictim selected in this instance was a boy about 
 twenty years of age, not very bright but stubborn and fear- 
 less. He made a good subject. It took two good men to 
 hold him aftei- his legs were bound. There were so many 
 new hands on board, it is quite likely there would have been 
 a row- if they had selected any of us beside this one. A little 
 incident that occurred about thistinie will serve to illustrate 
 his characteristics: 
 
 On shipboard, the regular ration of molasses is one 
 quart to each man, once a week, sufficient to sw^eeten his 
 coffee ami dre.ss his duff. This beyJiad a weakness for cane 
 jniice, would crumb bread into his allowance as soon as it 
 was dealt out, eat it like so much bread and milk, then im- 
 
14 MY VOYACJE AROUXD THE GLOBE. 
 
 prove every opportunifcy to filcli it from the others. We 
 concluded to satisfy his cra.ving for once, at least. So one 
 day when h-^ had receivedan I stowed away his own, as iis- 
 nnl, a delegation took him in hand and compelled him to 
 continue his feast. A second quart followed the first with 
 neatness and dispatch; but the old saying, "two is com- 
 pany, three is a crowd," applied in this case, and only a 
 portion of the third quart had gone to the bourne, from 
 Avhence all subsequently returned, where there was unmis- 
 takable evidence of internal strife. At this juncture the 
 mate appear<^d on the sc^ne, terminated the compulsory re- 
 past, and maae the victim drink a pint of salt water. The 
 action of the emetic was prompt and emphatic, the boy 
 rushed to the rail and dumped his troubles into the sea. 
 The one treatment effected a lasting cure. Keeley has 
 hardly parallelled this record of overcoming a morbid appe- 
 tite. He never so much as called for his own allowance of 
 molasses afterward. 
 
 AH was now ready, and Neptune called for his subject. 
 He w^as at the wheel, but was immediately relieved and 
 brought before the uiaster of ceremonies, who catechised 
 as follows: 
 
 •'What is your name?" 
 
 "Washington Enos Cune, from Vairmount state." 
 
 "Do you use tobacco, or drink rum?" 
 
 "No." 
 
 "What is an ordinary seaman's duty?" 
 
 "Hand, reef and steer." 
 
 "What is it to hand a sail?" 
 
 "Furl it." 
 
 "Name the reefs in the topsail." 
 
 "Single reef, double reef and close reef." ' 
 
 "Can 3^ou box the compass imm north to south?" 
 
MY VOYAfiE AT^Orxn THE GLOBE. 15 
 
 "1 will try: North; north by east; north northeast- 
 northeast by norfh; northeast; northeast by east; east 
 northeast; east by north; east; east by south; east south- 
 east; southeast by east; southeast; .. southeast by south; 
 south southeast; south by east; south." 
 
 "You save one shave by answering correctly. I will try 
 you on able seamen's duty." 
 
 "How would you commence to reef topsails?" 
 
 "Lower away the yard on the cap, haul up the reef tack- 
 le, bringing the leech of the sail up to the yard, lift the dog's 
 ear, pass the earing, haul to leeward and knot away." 
 
 ''What are the names of the sails on the mainmast?" 
 
 "Mainsail, topsail, top gallant sail, roval and skysail " 
 
 "I see you will have to be shaved." To the sailors in 
 charge of the subject: - Put the canvas around his neck, I 
 will make a full fledged sailor of him." And he proceeded 
 to use the brush. 
 
 "Keep it out of my mouth!" 
 
 "Quiet, quiet, my lad! This is only the first lather, I 
 must put some on the upper part of your jawbone." 
 
 "Keep it out of my eyes!" 
 
 "Shut your eyes. You must commit to memory what I 
 tell you. Hold his arms! My knife is not sharp, but I must 
 shave close to take off the shore dust." 
 
 "Keep that brush out of my mouth!" 
 
 ' Steady, boy, keep anchored or you may lose your eye- 
 brows. It takes lots of slush to shave this fellow, but lie 
 will make a good seaman when I get through with him. 
 ^ow repeat afterme thenames of the sails on the mainmast: 
 Alter the SKvsail comes the moon sail, stargazer, skyscrap- 
 er and the heavenly peeper. Now do you think you can 
 rememb(^r? These are sails, but you will never see them 
 set." 
 
1(> 
 
 MY VOVACE AROrXl) THE fILOBE. 
 
 "There are others on l^oard who never crossed the equa- 
 tor before; why don't vou shave them?*' 
 
 '^We shall shave some of them some dark night. Some 
 will never make sailors and will be put ashore the first. port 
 we enter. Now, men, take this subject forward and wash 
 him up. He will nf^t fear to cross the equator hereafter." 
 
MY VOYAGE AROrXD THE GLOBE. 17 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 WHALE FISHING. 
 
 Preparatory arrangements aboard ship— The pursuit and capture of leviathan 
 —Dangers of the chase— Securing and stowing the oil and bone— Death of 
 our first mate— St. Paul's Island— Captain and new mate have a r ow— Trou- 
 ble between the captain and Dr. Winslow— Island of Toboai— Arrive at 
 Tahiti. 
 
 We had now entered upon the South Atlantic whaling 
 grounds, and when we reached a point a few degrees south 
 of the Tristan d' Acunha Islands, began our work. 
 
 Before proceeding to relate our experiences in the chase 
 of leviathan, 1 will describe and explain some things that 
 may interest the reader and enable him to better understand 
 what follows. 
 
 Each man gets his board and a certain share of oil and 
 bone, according to his experience as a sailor, or whaleman. 
 This share, called a "lay", constitutes his only compensa- 
 tion for services and is lucrative in proportion to the suc- 
 cess of the voyage. If the ship returns with a. full cargo, he 
 has a good sum to his credit when he settles up. 
 
 There are four mates, each has command of a boat when 
 in chase of the whale, and when acting in this capacity is 
 called boa theader, and it is part of his duty to 'a nee the 
 whale. The hnrpooner, always an experienced seaman, 
 throws the harpoons and makes fast to the whale. 
 
 The boats are twenty-six feet in length, built of light 
 mat-erial, l,o\v and stern shaped alike that they may 
 be backed or shoved astern when necessary, as easily as they 
 can be propelled ahead. And it is always necessary to back 
 
18 MY VOYAHE AROT NT) TOE (ILOBE. 
 
 away as soon as the whale feels iron, and the best time the 
 whalemen can make is none too quick. The oarlocks are 
 muffled that they may approach the gigantic prey without 
 noise. Sockets in the bottom of the boat hold the oars 
 apeak when the men are attending to other duties. When 
 in fair striking distance, the harpooner, standing in the 
 bows, throws the barbed harpoons and they plunge deep in- 
 to the monster's side. 
 
 Six men constitutes a boat's crew, always; every man 
 handles an oar; each oar has a name, to- wit: Harpooneer 
 oar, bow oar, midship oar, tub oar, after oar and steering 
 oar. 
 
 In the bows are two harpoons, two lances, and a hatch- 
 et and knife to cut the line in case of accident. In the stern 
 are kept a compass, a lantern, six sperm candles, a keg of 
 sea bread and sometimes an extra keg of water. Some car- 
 ry a quadrant to assist in calculating latitude in case the 
 boat should get lost from the ship. 
 
 In the after part of the boat are a large and a small tub 
 holding the whale lines. The lines are made of best manilla 
 and are prepared and coiled in the tubs before they are 
 placed in the boats in the following manner: A line with a 
 heavy billet of wood attached is towed astern of the ship 
 from twelve to twenty-four hours. It is then handed on 
 board and dried, then passed over a block aloft, brought 
 down and coiled into the tubs back-handed. Beginning at 
 the outside, the line is coiled snug and smooth to the centre 
 carried straight across to the outside again andthe process 
 repeated until the tubs are full. The two hold about one 
 hundred and fifty fathoms of line. That in the large tub is 
 run out first and the reserve line in the small tub bent on, if 
 necessary. Sometimes the entire length is insufficient,'when 
 the whale sounds unusually deep or makes straight away 
 
MV VOYADE AROUND THE CILOBE. 10 
 
 until it becomes necessary to cut loose to save the boat and 
 crew. 
 
 The care taken in preparing and coiling the line, as 
 above described, is necessary to make sure that it will pay 
 out without kinking. 
 
 When a whale is sighted and the boat is ready for the 
 start, the exposed end of che line is lifted from the large tub, 
 passed with a turn or two around a post in the stern, called 
 a loggerhead, carried forward over the oars to the bow, 
 passed throuj^h a groove or chock lined with zinc or lead, 
 brought l»ack to the right a little and bent onto the har- 
 poons. 
 
 There are several species of whale to-wit: The sperm 
 whale, the black or right whale, the fin-backed, the hump- 
 backed and the sulphur bottom. The first two are the kind 
 sought. The others do not yield oil enough to pay, and the 
 two last named are found mostly in bays aud inlets. The 
 black fish is the smallest of the whalespecies and yields from 
 three to five barrels of oil. The sperm whale, has but one 
 spout and blows ahead. The right whale has two and 
 sprays right and left. The black or right whale is found 
 mostly in high latitudes both nf»rth and south, its particu- 
 lar haunts being determined by the presence of ''britt"upqn 
 which it feeds. The sperm whale Is found iu the temperate 
 and torrid zones, is provided with teeth and fee^s upon squid 
 and fish. The sperm whale's defense is his, head, the right 
 whale defends with his flukes. 
 
 Two men are kept aloft on the top gallaiit crosstrees, 
 fore and main, on lookout for whale, and arprelieyed every 
 two hours. When a whale appears on the surface or spouts, 
 the man that describes it sings out: 
 
 '*There she blows!" 
 
 "Where away?'' 
 
 "Two points off the .starboard bow/' 
 
2 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 *'What iloes she look like? 
 
 "Right whale," 
 
 There is grejit excitement when a whale is sighted, in get- 
 ting the boats r.?ady for the start. The preliminaries are 
 quickly disposed of and at the order "lower away" the boat 
 is let over the side by means of the davitt tackles with two 
 men in it ready to unhook the minute she touches the water. 
 It requires tact to get dowu the ship's side into the boat, as 
 the ship is rolling and the boat setting away into the trough 
 of the sea. Sometimes you may step off the chains thinking 
 3'ou have but a short step and drop eight or ten feet into 
 the bottom of the boat. You have to watch your chance 
 and step quick. 
 
 Now the boats are off after the whale, and during their 
 absence the ship is managed by the carpenter or boatbuild- 
 er, cooper, blacksmith, steward, cook and cabin boy. One 
 man is sent aloft with a waif — apiece of painted cloth drawn 
 over a hoop with a long handle attached, to "waif" or sig- 
 nal the direction of the whale to the boats. From his point 
 of vantage he can see farther than the men in the boats. 
 The men pull with a will and the boats fairly tiy. The boat- 
 header encouraging them with promises of new suits, houses 
 and lots, etc. You can tell by the expression of his face 
 when the monster is near. A moment later you can hear 
 the whale spouting and feeding, then the command: "Stand 
 up." The harpooneer peaks his oar, grabs the harpoons, 
 throws them in quick succession, and sings out: "Stern all!" 
 The wh ile sounds or goes down at a lively rate. The offi- 
 cers change places and the mate uses the lance. They hold 
 on the line as it goes around the loggerhead. 
 
 The whale stays under water from fifteen to forty-five 
 minutes, and when he reappears above the surface starts 
 off at a terrific speed, lashing the sea furiously with hi3 
 flukes, the blows resounding like claps of thunder. It is said 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUXD THE fiLOBE. 21 
 
 thoy ^o at the rate of forty nnles an hour. The men peak 
 their oars, turn on the thwarts and haul line to overtake 
 the prey. No attempt is made to recoil the line and it is 
 dropped and townd astern as they advance. At the proper 
 point the men return to the oars and pull for the monster's 
 side, taking care to keep out of his sight and away from his 
 flukes. The heart or "life" lies just hack of the pectoral 
 fin, and the lance must reach it to kill. When the boat 
 gains the proper position, the mate uses the lance, and if he 
 strikes the vital point the whale begins to spout blood; 
 then the boat must get away quick for he is terrible in his 
 "flurry" or death throes. It is lively work from first to last 
 an<l f rough t with great danger. 
 
 Now the monster ceases to struggle, life is extinct and he 
 rolls inertly with the motion of the waves. The prize is now 
 towed alongside the ship meanwhile working up to meet the 
 boats. He is secure<] by two heavy chains, one passed 
 around the flukes and one hooked onto the fin. Heavy 
 tackles running to the mainmast head, thence forward to 
 the windlass are provided for hoisting. The head is dis- 
 posed of first. If it IS black or right whale only the upper 
 part of the head is brought on deck. This contains the 
 bla«.'k whale bone of commerce, which is set in the gums in 
 slabs varying in length from one to twelve feet by eight to 
 ten inches in width, averaging about one inch in thickness 
 at the base, and tapering to a point. The outer edge of 
 these slabs are nearly straight and the inside edges are 
 frinf?e<l like a horse's main, forming a perfect mat that 
 catches the "brit." The whale swims with his mouth open 
 when feeding, closing the enormous trap at intervals to 
 blow the water out through his nostrils, and to suck down 
 and swallow the accumulations of "brit." An individual 
 "brit" is about the size and color of a trrain of flax-seed 
 
22 MY VOYAOC AROUND THE rJLOBE. 
 
 Tf it is a sperm wlialt^, the whale head is usually hoisted 
 on deck. The teeth are ivory of fine quality, and the cra- 
 nium yields three to five barrels ot* oil, called case oil whicti 
 constitutes the highest grade, and is obtained after the head 
 is opened by simply bailing out, and requires no further 
 treatment to prepare it for use. 
 
 The head disposed of, the next thing in order is to secure 
 the blubber Pn-vitied with sharp, long handled spades, 
 men are let over the side on stagings and further secured in 
 their positions by breast mats attached to the side of the 
 ship, cut the blubber in pieces about four feet wide and seven 
 or eight in length, called blanket pieces. Beginning at, and 
 including the fin in the first piece, they cut and peel, men on 
 deck hoisting and rolling the whale as they proceed, until 
 the piece is long enough, then a hole is cut a little below 
 where it is severed, the bight of the rope fi'om the second tac- 
 kle is passed through and secured to what will be the second 
 piece, the first is hauled on board and lowered into the hold. 
 This is repeated, the men cutting round and round the 
 whale spirally down to the flukes, when the carcass is cut 
 adrift. 
 
 In the hold two men, one with a pike the other with a 
 knife, lean the blanket pieces, i. e. remove any pieces of flesh 
 that may be found adhering to the blubber, and cut it in pieces 
 of convenient size, say six inches by twelve, called "horse" 
 pieces, and pikes them on deck where a third man catches 
 them with a hook, throws them onto a horse and holds them 
 while a fourth man with a long knife that is provided with a 
 handle at each end, sli'-es it up and shoves it into a large 
 tub ready for the kettles. Of these there are two of large 
 size, set in brick arches, supported by iron knees bolted to 
 the timbers of the deck. As the process of frying out pro- 
 gre.-ses, the oil is bailed into a copper cooler, and the ket- 
 tles replenished with the prepared blubber in the tubs. The 
 
^[v voY.vrjE ARorxn tjie olore. 2.'5 
 
 cool i '!«• ivcpp tide referred to is nbcmt three feefc square by 
 six feen in height, and is provided with a faucet near the 
 top. To this faucet a hose is attached that conducts the 
 partially cooled oil as it rises to a cask on deck. When cold, 
 it is carried below by another hose to casks in the ground 
 tier of the hold. Wood is used for the first fire and scraps 
 are utilize 1 to k^ep it going- ami niakesa very hot fire. The 
 bone is split out of the jaws with axes, packed in bales of 
 five slabs each, bound with, spun yarn or marlinand stowed 
 between decks. 
 
 The sperm whale fret]uently makes a most determined 
 resistance, and apparantly actuated by revenge, attempts 
 to seize and destroy the boat with his jaws. The right 
 whale will sweep its flukes through the air, bring them 
 down suddenly on a boat, cut it asunder, killing some and 
 hurling others stunned and bleeding a great distance. 
 A yet more appMlling calamity occasionally befalls an entire 
 boat's crew,— the whale sounds perpendicular, the line gets 
 foul of something in the boat, will not run out freely, and 
 in the twinkling of an eye boat, crew and all are dragged 
 (U>wn into the ocean. 
 
 When pulling onto a whale, the boatheader holds the 
 steering oar and watches the game. He will not allow the 
 men to look forward, for some have been known to become 
 panic stricken at sight of the monster when near at hand, 
 and jump out of the boat rather than run the chances of 
 going nearer. The terrific noise and awful appearance of 
 tlu' leviatiian isenough to frighten anyone but an old whale- 
 man. 
 
 One day we captured a small black whale, or "calf." 
 These are sometimes killed with the harpoons, and our har- 
 ]>ooneer succeeded in reaching the vitals in this instance. 
 Tjie stricken whale spouted blood at once, his flukes sank 
 limply into the sea, and he aised his head above the sur- 
 
24 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 face anrl o^roaned, or bellowed equal to the heaviest clap of 
 thunder I ever heard, it fairly made the boat tremble. This 
 one only yielded forty barrels of oil. 
 
 A sad accident resulting in the death of our first mate 
 happened when we were in forty-five south latitude and at a 
 point southeast of the Tristan Islands. We sighted a large 
 right whale off our starboard beam and about two miles 
 distance. We judged that he would have yielded four hun- 
 dred barrels of oil it we had succeeded in killing him. 
 
 Three boats lowered and pulled after him. The mate's 
 boat did not lower, but took what is called "ship's chance," 
 that is the chance that the whale will dive before the other 
 boats get in striking distance and come up between them 
 and the ship, which was just what happened in this instance. 
 He came up within half a mile of the ship. 
 
 I belonged to the mate's boat, and as soon as the whale 
 reappeared, the orders: "Main yard aback and lower away! 
 Give away men!" were given. We went onto him and put 
 both harpoons into him. He sonnded, came up and made 
 off in the direction of the other floats. The second mate 
 fastened to him, and then we knew there would be fun, 
 strife for the honor of killing the whale, as a record is kept 
 in the ship's journal and is a good recommend for the officer 
 who secures the most prizes. 
 
 There is danger of getting stove when two boats are try- 
 ing to use the lance. In their eagerness and excitement 
 caution is forgotten. We went up to him on the right side 
 an«l the mate was lancing him and saying: "Hold her up, 
 boys, I'll fix him!" I was pulling the midship oar and saw 
 that the monster was drawing ahead, every sweep of his 
 flukes brought him nearer the boat, I knew we were in dan- 
 ger. 
 
 The mate sang out: "Stern, all!'' 
 
MY VOYAGE AROFXD THE GEOBE. 25 
 
 We dropped our oai'd and ^'ave one shove astern, just as 
 the whale made a side sweep with his flukes, cutting off the 
 head of the boat and hurling the mate into the sea twenty 
 feet away. The third boat picked him up and started for 
 the ship. Our boat sank, but b,y laying- the oars across the 
 gunwales and standing on them, we could keep Qur heads 
 above the surface of the water. The second mate was still 
 fast to the whale, and as we stood in the wa,ter up to our 
 necks, the monster came rushing toward-! u-; making a, hor- 
 rible noise. I thought he was going to run us <lown. and 
 sang out at the top of my voice: '"(.'orne back with that 
 boat!" but the officei-s did not heed my <'all. Hecame with- 
 in twenty feet of us then turned aside. We werein the water 
 about half an hour, when thn boat Tetuin«^d foi- us. and 
 were so cold a.ml uuinb that we had to [)e hauled on board. 
 
 The second mat^^ tried to kill thf^ whale, but our accident 
 had eviikmtly unnerved him. His n^en .^aid he wouhi sing- 
 out: "Stern, all!" before he was near enough to use the 
 lance effectively everytime th'^y attempted to appi-oach. It 
 \va,s now about sun<]own and the captain sigt a.'!e<l to cut 
 line and come aboard. 
 
 O.I examination it was found Ihnt our mate had been 
 sti-u-k on the left leg-, and the bone crushed from above the 
 Kupe down to the foot. Mortification set in in the course of 
 a few days, and the doctor amputated it above the knee, 
 but the operation (b'd ];ot arrrst Ihe process of deronipo.'^i- 
 tion. It extended to his body and he died. The day fol- 
 lowing his death we buried him in the mariner's grave, with 
 no tombstone but the stars. He was a nice man. well lik«Mi 
 by all. His nanie was Payne and his home and family were 
 somewhere on I^ong Island. 
 
 That day's whaling cost one man his life. The property 
 losses included two stoven boa.ts. four harpoons, five lances 
 and about one hundred and fiftv fathoms of line, or about 
 
^6 MY VOYAGE, AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 $125.00. Whereas, if thej had exercised due caution, T 
 think all this might have been avoided, and the whale cap_ 
 tured. He would have been a valuable prize worth several 
 thousand dollars, for all agreed in estimating that he would 
 have yielded four hundred barrels of oil at least 
 
 After the death of Mr. Payne, the second, third and 
 fourth mates were promoted a grade each, and a man from 
 the fore castle was made harpooner or fourth officer. 
 
 We now shaped our course south southeast, our next 
 objective point being St. Paul's Island, in thirty nine soutli 
 latitude, Indian Ocean. We reached it th(^ last of F'ebruary, 
 laid off and on two days, and went ashore with our boats. 
 
 Four Frenchmen and four bi ii.-i; .sl,iv^e.s co.istitiited tho 
 population of the ishiud. Tiiny were ^-u'^Mg^d in c?it(t]iing 
 fish, (salmon, I think) and salting and drying them to sell. 
 The blacks were branded on the face. I do not know to what 
 tribe or nationality they belonged. 
 
 The island is surrounded with seaweed called kelp, and 
 the water is alive with the fish I have mentioned. We went 
 to shore with the boats and caught eight barrels of them. 
 These were the fattest fish I have ever seen. We salted them 
 down. 
 
 The island is an extinct volcano, or, to speak more ac- 
 curately, the rim of thes crater. The sea fills the crater and 
 the tide ebbs and flows through a break In the wall on one 
 sldv\ Throu^^h this opening small boats can enter the cra- 
 ter at flood tide. At the right of the entrance there are hot, 
 boiling springs. The exposed portion of the rim rises sev- 
 eral hundred feet above the water. Steps have bc^en cut in 
 the lava or rock, by which you may climb to the top. A 
 large flat rock rests on the summit, and on it is inscribed 
 the names of many ships and the date of their visit to the 
 island. The island is circular in form, and, I should judge 
 not more than two miles across. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 27 
 
 Ofi the eveaing- ol the second ^ny, after we were all on 
 board and preparing to set sail, the captain, full of fish and 
 rum, and the ne^v mit.^ had a lively tirn '.. I was aloft loos- 
 ening top-gallant sails, and could look down and seethe fun. 
 It looked at one time as though there would be bloodshed. I 
 heard the captain b;nvl out: "I will let you know that I 
 command that gun!" referring to an old rusty cannon on 
 the forecastle deck. The other officers sm^ceeded in quieting 
 the row before serious consequences resulte(i. 
 
 There was anoth-r trouble brewing b'^twe ni the captain 
 and Dr. Winslow, and shortly after leaving- St. Paul's Island 
 it cul.nin ited in an open rupture. Ic com n .mc^^d about 
 Mary, the doctor's servant girl. She was a freckle-faced, 
 witty Irish girl, an(i developed a fonaness for sitting on the 
 quarter deck moonlight evenings, to listen to the officers 
 relate stories of their travels and adventures. Sometimes 
 she would linger until quite late. The doctor, or his wife 
 would reprimand her, telling her that she ought to come 
 below earlier. A man of the captain's windy characteris- 
 tics could not forbear to interfere. He objected to what he 
 termed the doctor's "cruelty" to Mary, as an unwarranta- 
 ble rt3striction upon her liberty. To the captain's officious 
 int=?rvention the doctor replied that he thought he knew his 
 own business. Harsh words ensued and the controversy 
 waxed hotter and hotter, until the captain went so far as to 
 draw a revolver on the doctor. The latter then withdrew, 
 saying, "I will settle this with you some other time." They 
 did not speak together again during the voyage, but the 
 captain annoyed the doctor by ordering a man, our Nep- 
 Lune subject, to y-tand sentry before his door, walk to and 
 fro and at short intervals drop the butt of his musket on 
 the deck to keep th- doctor and his family awake. The girl 
 was seldom op deck evenings after the row. 
 
 On the twentieth of March, we ha/J left thp Indian Ocean 
 
28 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 behind us, and Van Dieraan's land was visible oft' our star- 
 board beam. The wind was blowing fresh, the barometer 
 indicated a heavy storm and we began to prepare for it. 
 We shortened sail, battened down onr hatches and lashed 
 everything movable. As the wind increased we continued 
 to shorten until only our ytorra sails were set. This was 
 the worst storm I ever encountei'el, and for nearly five days 
 welled before it with the wind on our starboard quarter. 
 But the Margaret Scott was a good sea boat, a iid rode tri- 
 umphant the mountain waves that seeme I, e.K^h n) iment.to 
 threaten inevitable destruction 
 
 Standing on the main hatch, for ami-. 1 of the mMinii.j.'^t, 
 when the stern would settle into thn tronj?h ofth»^sea, we 
 could look over the mizzen top and see a greab wall ol' water 
 that appeared as though it must surely engulf the ship. 
 But the stern would rise as we ploughed ahead and the 
 great wave divided and went roaring past her hides. 
 
 I watched the old stars closelv to see if they showed 
 signs of fear^ but could detect no difference in their looks or 
 actions. They appeared to be as jovial as in calm weather, 
 and I took their appai'ant unconcern to mean that we were 
 all right. 
 
 Daring the first three days of the storm, the captain did 
 not appear on deck, then he came up, took a look around 
 and said: "The old ship has weathered it remarkably well!" 
 
 It was the second day of the blow, as I recollect it, that 
 we shipped a sea that stove two ol' our small botits and the 
 cook's galley. The galley filled instantly with water, and 
 the old negro cook popped out head first blowing like a por- 
 poise and followed by chunks of beef, pork and whatever else 
 his quarters contained that would float. He came upstrok- 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 29 
 
 ing the water from his chin whiskers, saying: "Blow! debbil, 
 blow! you can't carry away dese fellahs!" 
 
 This mishap entailed the only losses we sustained from 
 the storm. 
 
 Fine weather followed the gale. The carpenter repaired 
 the whaleboats and cook's galley. On the loth of April we 
 encountered a school of young sperm whale, killed five of 
 thpm, and they yielded one hundred and twenty barrels of 
 oil. 
 
 The following day we sighted one of ihe Windwnrd 
 islands, of the Society group, called Toboai. It has no har- 
 bor. We ran in near shore, landed with tht- boats and pur- 
 chased some hogs, potatoes, yams and fruit. 
 
 I was between decks cleaning blubber, when I heard a 
 strange jabbering on deck. Looking up I saw human be- 
 ings, who worenothing in the shape of clothing save a small 
 fringed mat about the loins. I thought tU^y must be wild 
 men, their appearance was so singular. 
 
 We sailed at dark, and about noon the next day sighted 
 the island of Taliiti. We were favored by the prevailing 
 southeast trade wind, and before night the low, flat lands 
 of the coast were visible from deck. 
 
 We hauled up the cables, gave them a turn around the 
 windlass, run them out through the hauser holes and bent 
 them onto the anchors. Unlashed the anchors from the 
 rail and liung them to the catheads, ready to lower. Thus 
 pn^pared we laid off and on until morning, then ran in and 
 anchoied under guidance of a pilot. Tt was now seven 
 months, two weeks and four days since we leftNt^w Bedford, 
 including time given to whaling. 
 
 As we approached the island the breeze came off shore 
 laden with the fragrance of tropical fruits and flowers, and 
 
30 
 
 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE 
 
 the attractions of a beautiful, tropical landscape greeted 
 our vision. All was new and strange to me and I was anx- 
 ious to go ashore. 
 
 The bay shore is semi-circular or crescent shaped, and a 
 coral reef forms the outer harbor, seaward. It is not a 
 land-locked port, but affords good anchorage and is roomy 
 enough to accommodate quite a fleet of vessels. Ships from 
 all parts of the world stop here for fresh water and provi- 
 sions, or for traffic. 
 
 On 
 
 ;g^1^^ 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 FAREWELL TO WHALING. 
 
 The doctor gets even with the captain— Rum and bilge water— Deserting the 
 ship— Exciting experiences— Meet shipmates— Visit the Windward Islands 
 —Incidents of the trip— Return to Pata— French vs. natives— Battle o 
 Point Venus— Missionary shot— Tahita— Characters and custom? of the ra 
 tives— Aboard the Shepherdess. 
 
 Tahiti was then, and is yet a French possession. 
 
 On shore, the captain continued to abuse Dr, Winslow 
 whenever they chanced to meet. The doctor had studied 
 medicine in Paris, and was fainiliar with the French lano;- 
 uage. He made complaint to the French authorities of the 
 island, and had the captain arrested and put into the cala- 
 boose. He was in three days, and was escorted by a French 
 officer while attending to his business in town. The Ameri- 
 can Consul arranged for him to stay on board of the ship 
 nights. 
 
 While he was in the calaboose, one of our sailors was 
 put in for drunkeness. He accosted the old captain, saying: 
 '*How do you like this fare, old boss?— I'm as good a man 
 as you are, here!" The sailor paid $5.00 fine, and was re- 
 leased. I think the doctor was even with the captain. 
 
 Two of the officers and some of the sailors joined in mak- 
 ing complaint to the consul, that the captain's drunkenness 
 incapacitated him for nianaging the ship. The consul had 
 the balance of his rum emptied into the ship's hold and 
 pumped out with the bilge water. 
 
 When we had been in port about a week the men began 
 to desert the ship. The French were at war with the na- 
 tives, which made it comparatively easy for them to escape, 
 
32 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 as the natives in town sided with the French, and did not 
 dare to go back into the woods to hunt sailors for reward 
 or bounty, as they had done formerly. 
 
 I was determined to go too, but thought ib best to wait 
 until the ship was nearly ready for sea, before taking 
 "French liberty,'' as the sailor calls running away. They 
 had shipped some new hands and did not allow the men to 
 go ashore. The old cooper had deserted, and we were wait- 
 ing for one that had been sick in the hospital. The old 
 negro steward came to me and said: "Bill, let's run away!" 
 I told him the old ship was all right. He belonged to the 
 cabin and I dared not trust him. 
 
 During one of my excuisions on shore I discovered a 
 break in the rear foundation wall of a Kauaka church. The 
 aperture was small but I could squeeze through, and the 
 floor of the building was high enough above the ground to 
 allow me to sit up. I decided that here would be a safe and 
 available hiding place, and laid my plans accordmgly. I 
 managed to stock mj^ conLemplated retreat with a small 
 quantity of sea bread, and patiently awaited a favorable 
 opportunity to take my departure. 
 
 The opportune moment came at last, when the ship was 
 nearly ready to sail. The officers were in the cabin taking 
 dinner. A native was fishing along side, and I gave him 
 some sea crackers to put me ashore. The first man I met 
 was the captain, under escort of a French officer, engaged 
 in shipping men to fill vacancies caused by desertion. He 
 said to me: "Where are you going, and what are you do- 
 ing on shore?" I had to make som3 excuse, and tohl him I 
 was after a man who owed me a couple of dollars. "Be 
 right back and go aboard of the ship!" he commanded. 
 Aye, aye, sir!" I replied. 1 hurried on until I reached the 
 outskirts of the village and laid low until dark. As soon as 
 1 thought it safe, I went to a French restaurant, bought a 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 33 
 
 couple of wine bottles, filled them with water and conveyed 
 them to my hiding place under the church. I ventured a 
 second trip, bought two loaves of baker's bread and put 
 them in my frock, a loaf on each side. As I came out of the 
 restaurant, the boat steerer came along with two men car- 
 rying the new cooper's chest from the hospital to the boat 
 landing. The harpooner was a nephew of the captain's. He 
 said to me: "You intend to desert come along with me a.nd 
 go on board of the ship." Ho is considered a petty officer, 
 so I walked along, but meant to tight rather then go a- 
 board. As they went down to the landing, I wheeled and 
 ran in another direction, with Cliarley after me. It was 
 getting dark. Right whea 1 \\c\t* the bridge that spans the 
 spring brook which is about ten rods wide at this point 
 and filled out with bogs and mad. My pursuer was gain- 
 ing on me, and I turned aside and leap-:(d into the brook. It 
 was a long ways around and he gave up tlie eliase. I wol- 
 lowed across, sometimes sinking to my knees in the mud, 
 and came out in an old Frenchman's yard on the other side. 
 The dog came after me and the proprietor swore, heard him 
 say something like sacra mon dieu. This demonstra- 
 tion only helped me along, as I knew that I was not want- 
 ed there. I reached my harbor of i-efuge under the church 
 without further mishap, laid down to rest, and think over 
 the exciting experiences of the day. It was Saturday night. 
 I soon discovered that my troubles were not ended. Some- 
 thing was crawling in the sand, and fearing it might be 
 snakes I dared not go to sleep. When morning came I saw 
 that the disturbers of my rest were a colony of harmless 
 little brown lizards that disappeared in their holes as soon 
 as it was light. As poor company is better than none, I 
 father enjoyed their presence than otherwise, after the first 
 night. Services were held in the church the following da v 
 
34 MY V0YA1E AR3UXD THE GLOBE. 
 
 but my presence was not discovered nor suspected so far as 
 I know. 
 
 M^^ retreat was safe, but otherwise barren of attractions. 
 By the end of the third day I was decitjedly weary cf my 
 enforced seclusion; and, as my supply of water was exhaust- 
 ed and provisions getting short, I determined to make a 
 break for the woods and endeavor to reach the table laaa 
 above the town. I started about daylight in the morning 
 and traveled through the ticket until I reached the high- 
 lands. Fearing the natives would see nu, 1 climbed iuto an 
 orange tree and sat there all day. I ate of the fruit but 
 found that orange juice is not very strengthening. I was 
 getting weak and hungr3^ At dark I started again. It 
 was a bright moonhght night and traveled over the high- 
 lands until I was tired, then laid down until daylight. In 
 the morning I walked on towards the mountains until I 
 reached the forks of the spring brook alluded to heretofore. 
 I found that it divided and a smaller branch made its way 
 to the coast by a widely diverging route. Each traversed 
 a separate valley, and these embraced the highlands over 
 which I had journeyed, the same converging to a point near 
 the fountain head, a large spring near the base of the moun- 
 tain, proper. It was about two hundred feet down to the 
 floor of either valley. The larger one varied in width from 
 twenty to eighty rods, and as far as the eye could reach 
 groves of lemon and orange in rich profusion studded the 
 level bottom land. At frequent intervals stately cocoanut 
 palms towered above their lesser associates. I had never 
 seen the like, a grand and gorgeous landscape, once seen, 
 never to be forgotten 
 
 Here and there in the larger valley a native dwelling 
 could be seen among the trees. The smaller valley lacked 
 the lemon and orange groves and was not inhabited. The 
 bluff was precipitous, but I clamored down, hanging unto 
 
MY YOYAf;E AROUND THE GLOBE. 85 
 
 the bushes, until I reached the lower level. When I had 
 rested, I attempted to climb a cocoanut tree, but made 
 poor headway, as I had not learned the native knack. I 
 persevered until I could reach a nut, laid hold of it with one 
 hand, exerted all the strength and weight I could bring to 
 bear, and at the same time maintani my hold upon the 
 trunk; but without avail. I grew weak, and had to slide 
 to the ground and take a rest I tried it again with the 
 same result. At the third .isv^ent, I secured two nuts. By 
 placing my hand over the upper end and giving them a 
 quick jerk, I found that they snapped off easily. I subsist- 
 ed on cocoa.nuts and I a lanas four days. I could live, but 
 could not lay up anything. I kept house and washed my 
 clothes and at the end of that time started for the coast, 
 following a ptith that evetitually crossed the liroom road 
 and brought me out at a place called Townoa, five miles 
 from Pata, the harbor. I met two of my shipmates, and 
 found that the carpenter who came out with us as a pas- 
 senger was keeping hon-^e here We took dinner with him. 
 J learned that our ship had sailed two days before. 
 
 Here I found a topsail schooner that wanted men and 
 got a berth aboard of her. She belonged to the native.-^, 
 sailed under French colors, and was manned by an English 
 captain and crew. She was bound for the Windward Is- 
 lands after a cargo of potatoes and yams. The French sus- 
 picioned that she was smuggling arms And provisions, land- 
 ing them up the coa^t at Pjlnt Venus for the hostile natives 
 and kept pretty close watoh of he.* movements. We sailed, 
 and the fourth day came to theisland where we received our 
 cargo. There was no anchorage, the ship laid off and on, 
 and we brought the freight off In the boats. 
 
 One day t!ie weather was rough and we took refuge un- 
 der the lee of the island until the wind abated. Next day 
 a>? we were coasting back to where we were receiving cargo, 
 
36 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE CrLOBE. 
 
 the French cutter came around a point of land ahead and 
 ran down to wards us before the wind. Our captain ordered: 
 "Hoist the colors, quick!" We run them up but they wound 
 around the signal halyards, as if ashamed to float. When 
 in hailiaf»- distance, the commander of the cutter ordered 
 our captaiu to bring his clearance papers on board. Our 
 captain replied: ''The sea is so heavy it will swamp our 
 boat." The cutter ran out a thirty two pounder, and our 
 captain ordered us to lower away the boat without further 
 parley, and we weat aboard the cutter with our clearance 
 papers. 
 
 The old Corsican was walking the quarter deck, and our 
 captain went aft, hat in hand, and submitted his papers to 
 him. When he had inspected them he said: ''I have a luiud 
 to take you back to Tahiti, but will permit you to continue 
 your voyage, and will report you to the Commodore.? The 
 Frenchman's gun did not make us feel friendly towards 
 them, and we decided, unanimously, that this should be 
 our last voyage under the French flag. We brought tlie 
 schooner back to Townoa, turned her over to the owners 
 and all hands quit. I think the cargo w^as for the natives, 
 and some dark night was put ashore at some point up the 
 coast. 
 
 From Townoa I returned to Pata. 
 
 The French governor of the island resided at Pata, mar- 
 tial law prevailed and sentinels were stationed throughout 
 the town. A cannon was fired every morning at sunrise, 
 and again at 9 o'clock in the evenmg, when everybody had 
 to be under cover, or on board a ship. If they caught you 
 out later they would put you in the calaboose and you had 
 live dollars fine to pay in the morning. 
 
 Beside the cutter that overhauled us on our voyage to 
 the Windward Islands, the French had a steamer cruising 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 87 
 
 about, and the frigate Euraine, with the Commodore a- 
 board, lying iu the harbor. 
 
 An English cutter was anchored in the bay, the frigate 
 Collingwood cruised outside the harbor, and Salamander 
 laid at Amro, a small island in sight of Tahiti. All were 
 evidently watching the progress of affairs. 
 
 PoQiae, queen of Society Islands, did not like the French, 
 would not stay on shore, and was entertained on board the 
 English cutter. 
 
 Oneda>'tjhe French transport, Bourbonais, came into 
 port with armj* stores and four hundred soldiers on board. 
 8he engaged an English pilot. When coming through the 
 entrance the wind was light, she did not mind her helm, the 
 tide set her onto a rock, stove a hole in her bottom and she 
 partly tilled with water. They lightened her of part of her 
 cargo and the steamer towed h^r off, but she sank before 
 reaching her dock. They thought the pilot did it purposely 
 through malice, and he was arrested and put in irons. 
 There was enmity berw.^en the French and English officers. 
 The French tore the ii ig from the English consulate, trailed 
 it in the dust, and perpetrated other insults. 
 
 The English -commander ran in and conferred with the 
 French Conmiodore, on board the Euraine. The latter a- 
 greed not to molest the natives further until they could 
 hear -from their respective countries. But the next day the 
 French sent three hundred soldiers up the coast to Foint 
 Venus, opened fire on the natives and burned their dwell- 
 ings. 
 
 The English missionary located there politely asked the 
 officer in command not to burn his house, but it was in 
 flames a few minutes later; and the missionary was killed 
 purposely, or by a stray bullet. The English cutter sent a 
 boat and brought him to Pata, where he was buried. 
 
 The Salamander steamed over from Amro, ran into the 
 
88 MY VOYAGE AROUXD THE GLOBE. 
 
 harbor and challenged the Freach Commodore to come out-" 
 side the reef and settle matters, but the Frenchman declined 
 the invitation. Many expected that these troubles would 
 lead to a war between the two nations. 
 
 The French lost seventy men that day at Point Venus. 
 The natives were sheltered by the thickets and cocoanut 
 trees, and reported only three killed. 
 
 I went up in company with some other bovs, and we 
 were watching the battle from the beach, but when we saw 
 the old missionary fall we conclu(ied that we had better re- 
 turn to Pata. 
 
 Tahiti lies in about 15° south latitude and 150° west 
 longitude. It is one of the prettiest islands in the south 
 Pacific and is called the ''garden of the seas." It is about 
 one hundred miles in length by seventy-five in breath. Its 
 highest mountain rises above the clouds, its summit divid- 
 ed into four peaks. Fri»m the side of this mountain bursts 
 the great spring, the fouuta^in head of the brook heretofore 
 described. 
 
 When 3^ou enter the harbor of Pata, one of the most 
 beautiful landscapes on the globe greets your view. The 
 beach is skirted with a low growth of cocoanut trees, inter- 
 spersed with lemon and orange. Flowers everywhere, their 
 rich perfumes permeating the atmosphere. The native dwell- 
 ings nestling under the trees fidds life and picturesqueness 
 to the scene. All along the beach groups of boys and girls 
 are seen sporting in social ghe, some sitting, others prome- 
 nading, all happy, seemingly, as nature itself. Canoes shov- 
 ing off for a fish in the bay, others returning laden with 
 finuy prizes. They are a light-hearted, happy race of peo- 
 ple and their merry laughter is heard on every hand. All in 
 all it is a scene never to be forgotten. 
 
 When compared with savage races generally, these peo- 
 ple present many striking and pleasing contrasts in nation- 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 39 
 
 n.l characteristics and social customs and conditions. Tiiej 
 are a very mild tempered and affectionate rnce, living- in 
 the utmost harmony amon"; themselves. VV^irsliippers of 
 idols and subjects of darkness and superstition for unknown 
 ages, they possess in a higli degree of the anii;il)le qualities 
 genernlly supposed to pertain to more enlightened races. 
 These extraordinary features were noted by the first white 
 man who yisittMl these islnnds. 
 
 The island is very healthy. There is no wet or marshy 
 land. Tlie cliin.ite is perfect, teinpjratui-e varit^s hut little 
 from 80° Far. the year round, perpetual summer without 
 excessive* heat. The low or flat lands run back to the foot 
 hills or tablelands, in some places ten to twenty miles in 
 width, while at some points the highlands come down near- 
 ly to the sea. The valleys along the streams are great or- 
 chards of lemon. <irange and other fruits. These vast nat- 
 ural plantations loaded with their rich j-ellow fruits are 
 sphn lid to see. 
 
 l*oint Venus, heretofore mentioned, is a spur of the 
 mountains that approach very near to the coast. Here as- 
 tronomers have met from time to time for the purpose of 
 observing eclipses and to study the stars. The Broom road 
 runs nearly around the island, built by deserting sailors and 
 convicts. The group was under English control a goo»l 
 many years but they had traded Tahiti to France for some 
 other possession. The natives were dissatisfied and several 
 battles were fought before they were finally subdued and 
 compelled to submit to the sway ol" France. 
 
 They were converted to ("Christianity, had contributed 
 money and joined with missionaries in the work of convert- 
 ing other groups. They are a very interesting people. 
 
 [Perhaps some may think that the foregoing account of 
 the captain's arrest and confinement in the cafaboose is 
 somewhat cxagerated, as he is understood to be, and in fact 
 
40 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 is a monarch at sea; subject, of course, to the marine la.ws. 
 But on shore he is a private citizen, amenable to the local 
 laws. Furthermore, because of war between the French and 
 natives, Tahiti was under martial law at this time, and 
 Dr. Winslow was commissioned by our government as hos- 
 pital physician at Mauee.] 
 
 I stayed on the group about two months, then shipped 
 on the brig Shepherdess, owned in Sydney and commanded 
 by Captain Schoots. I met the captain and hailed him for 
 a birth. He said he wanted a man. ''What is your wages?' ' 
 I asked. "Two pound ten," replied the Scotchman. "All 
 right," said I, but did not know how much it meant in Yan- 
 kee money. He told me where the brig was anchored and I 
 went aboard. There I found the mate a big Scotchman, six 
 sailors, and the captain's wife, a very pleasant and social 
 lady. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUNp THE GLOBE. 41 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 TRAFFIC WITH THE NATIVES. 
 
 The brig's equipment and business methods— Island of Rarotonga— We enter- 
 tain visitors— The captain and the cannon— The Samoan group— How we 
 lost ( ur anchors— The Fijis a treacherous people— Girl otfered for a mus- 
 - ket— Remarkable differences in character— The Chain Islands— Taken sick 
 and left on the friendly Islands. 
 
 ThH .ShHpht^r.lH.M-^ was suitably fitted out for the business 
 ot* trartieiving with the natives; and m the pursuit of trade 
 visited all the South Pacific group.s, receiving cocoanut oil, 
 turtle shell, dried bananas aad HUy-Ai othr'r native products 
 asj were salable in the Sidney market, in exchange for goods 
 of the white man's make. A successful voyage returned 
 good profit to the owners. 
 
 When we came to an island that had a harbor we would 
 run in an anchor, but as most of them did not possess this 
 advantage, we would heave to as near shore as practicable. 
 The fancy goodt* and notions were then brought and dis- 
 plrtved on tables in the cabin, so as to catch the eyes of our 
 prospective Kanaka customers. On each quarter deck was 
 a small cannon on pivots, and these were tired to notify the 
 natives fiat we were ready for business. Soon a flotilla of 
 canoes could be seen approaching the brig, some laden with 
 cocoanut oil, others with turtle shell, fine mats, a pig, chick- 
 ens, fruits, vegetables, etc. When the trading began it re- 
 minded one of the confusion of tongues at the Tower of Ba- 
 bel. 
 
 Our stock included muskets, axes, hatchets, looking- 
 glasses, beads, cloth, and most of such trinkets as are usual- 
 ly kept in a Yankee notion store. The captain's wife was a 
 
good saleswoman; like many of her sex, a great linguist and 
 slight of hand. At some islands they had left barrels the 
 previous voyage, to be filled with oil, and at some places 
 we could find four or five of these barrels filled and ready 
 for us. We paid a fair price for oil and such other commod- 
 ities as sold well at Sidney. The oil, turtle shell, and mats 
 were the most valuable. We paid a mere trifle for the fruit. 
 
 'We visited a beautiful little island called Karo tonga. It 
 has a bay where vessels of light draft can enter. A mission- 
 ary and his wife were the only white inhabitants. It was a 
 cozy place to live. Our captain and wife invited the mis- 
 sionary and wife, and the king and his family to come on 
 board and take dinner with us. We sent our boat after 
 the guests, and fired salutes while they were coming from 
 shore. They had an enjoyable time and were well pleased 
 with their visit. We had prepared to fire a farewell salute 
 while they were returning to land, but when we applied the 
 match the guns refused to go, and we did not succeed in fir- 
 ing them until the boat had readied shore. This irritated the 
 captain so much that, when we had succeeJed,.he continued 
 to fire them until near midnight. He said h^^ would thro.v 
 them overboard if they ever went back on him again. We 
 stayed at this island ten days, then sailed for the Samoan 
 group. , 
 
 We touched first at Apia and <lid a little^ traiino:; pas«»ed 
 on and dropped anchor at a larger island called Tufcuila. 
 Here we received several barrels of oil and some fine mats. 
 The captain had dealt with them before and they had pre- 
 pared the oil for him. They were very nice natives to deal 
 with. It is a nice island, and there were some white resi- 
 dents beside the missionaTies. The whites had built a small 
 schooner of about twenty-four tons burden, called the Pet- 
 rel, and she had taken some of our trade. She did not xun 
 
MY ¥OYAGK AIIOT XD THE Oi.OftlC. 48 
 
 to SidiK^y, but traded with groups near by and sold to 
 other traders. 
 
 When ready to depart we essayed to raise our «jnchor, 
 found it was fast uader the coral reef and had to wait until 
 morning, when we tried it with the windlass but could not 
 fetch it. Then we made sail and attempted to trip the an- 
 chor. After several trials the cable parted and we had. to 
 sail without an anchor, as the brig had previously lostthfe 
 other in the same way. 
 
 We sailed for the Fiji group, and at the expiration of 
 three days came to a large island called Lakimbau. The 
 natives came off in canoes bringing fowls and a little oil. 
 Our captain would not go ashore as they were a treacher- 
 our people, and we might have trouble with them. Some 
 were cannibals and might want to make a feast of us. We 
 bought seveuty-fivrf pounds of turtle shell, several gallons 
 of oil and some fin^ mats. They offered to trade us a girl 
 for a musket. At night we drove them ashore, made up our 
 minds that we would not trust ourselves in their company 
 *fny longer, and sailed away. Subsequently, I became better 
 acqufiinted with them, as they are near to, and frequently 
 visit the Friendly Islands. 
 
 , We traded at some groups where the natives seemed, to 
 b3 lower down in the scale of humanity, but not so 
 treacherous, of mild disposition , snd very simple hearted, 
 appearing more like children. When we had made a trade 
 with them they wanted more. For amusement the sailors 
 would sell one of them a ring, bolted to the deck, and of course 
 possible to separate therefrom. He would pull at it a 
 long time, then sit down and cover ic with his tapper think- 
 ing it might become loose, and when he thought we were 
 not looking would try it again Soraetimestfe^^ ^puhl pjy 
 bte<^^uiJe they cn>u,}(J not succeed, ,U4 ^ ^i r ..., r. 
 
44 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The natives of the Chain Islands, a group situated a few 
 degrees north of the equator^ are ex pert swimmers and not- 
 ed divers. A French ship sank in the harbor of Tahiti and- 
 they hired some of these natives to dive and fasten to th«,- 
 anchors and sails. The Chain Islands are not as prod uqt. 
 tive as some of the other groups. 
 
 The natives of some groups are surly, have an ugly dis- 
 posi^ion and it is difficult to trade with them. 
 
 It is strange there should be such marked differences in 
 the characteristics and conditions of the natives on the dif- 
 ferent groups so near to each other. 
 
 On some of the islands, not yet visited by missionaries, 
 converts from other groups had taught them to forsake 
 their sins and love Otua. But some are slow of compre- 
 hension and made slow progre^ss. Time lias wrought a 
 change, no doubt. Some may think tlv-y are all Christian, 
 ized but they are not half civilized. , Heathen nature needs 
 watching by the missionary, you will find. 
 
 Captain Cook gives us some idea of cert lin groups in his 
 account of his voyage around the world; but it would be 
 difficult to name two where the native characteristics and 
 disposition are identical. Compare any two that you please 
 and you will find one superior to the other intellectually, 
 and in the exhibition of mechanical genius. These will re- 
 spond to the influences of civilization and improve their 
 condition as they become enlightened; while others seem 
 dazed at the superiority of the white man's ships, 'equip- 
 ment and knowledge. It would seem that they at once re- 
 gard it as impossible for them to attaih to the higher pos- 
 sibilities of life, the prospect discourages them, they aban- 
 don ambition, become lazy and apathetic, and are sunk be- 
 low their native status in the scale of humanity by contact 
 with civilization. If I renolember rightly, Captain Cook 
 notes this in the journal of Kis last voyage that they were 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 45 
 
 not as indiistrioiiH an>l thrifty as when he first visited 
 them. 
 
 On some islands they punish criminals by mailing them 
 beat ornato or nntive rioth. On other gr'>ups no attention 
 is paid to the off«^uder. 
 
 1 thinic there are some small islands that will never be 
 settled by foreigners. 
 
 Generally speakinp^, it may be a question whether these 
 islanders have been benefitted by contact with civilization, 
 or not. The missionary comes and tells them they must 
 be good and love one another. The words and actions of 
 the next white man that comes among them are not in 
 keeping with the teachings of the missionary. The native 
 is quick to note the inconsistency, and I have often thought 
 that the influence of the evil doers more than counter- 
 balances the opp jsing force. If the white man's religion, 
 is all the missionary claims it to be, it is incomprehensible to 
 these simple children of the isles that all white men are not 
 Christians. To them it is a great stumbling block, and re- 
 tards the success of missionary work. 
 
 When we had cruised from group to group for several 
 months and the brig was about ready to sail for New Zea- 
 land, we touched at the Friendly Islandt?, situated in 18 and 
 19 south latitude and 170 west longitude. Tonga is the 
 largest of this group, and is said to be eighty to ninety 
 miles in length. Near it are a number of smaller islands, or 
 inotus. The next in size is Vavau, distant about two de- 
 grees from Tonga. Midway between them are eleven small- 
 er islands, called the Habias. I can name the most of them: 
 Tongua, Harfeva, Oua, Namuka, Lafouka, Kau, Tofua. 
 Have forgotten the names of the remaining five. These were 
 not inhabited. The soil is of volcanic origin and very pro- 
 ductive. Nearly everything required by the nati yes grows 
 spontaneously. Yams, sweet potatoes and tarrow are cul- 
 
46 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBEl '' 
 
 tivated. Th^^tarrow looks like white turnip. It is dried 
 and pounded into flour, therf made iato pudding, and is a 
 very wholesome food. Br^ad fruit, bananas, lemons, limes, 
 oranges, cocoanut, pineapples, lashe, etc. grow without cul- 
 tivation. Very little labor is necessary to afford them a 
 living, as nature hjis provided nearly everything they need. 
 It was my lot to be taken sick about this time, and they 
 left meottv one of the small islands called Harfeva, and* it 
 transpired that I remained on the group about three years. 
 It was in thamonthof Augustthat I was put ashore and the 
 brig, expected to return about the first of January, follow- 
 ing. The captain left six barrels to be filled with cocoanut 
 oil during his absence. I had mv choicetovgo with the ves- 
 sel pr stay on the island, and decided to remain. The na- 
 tives told the captain they would take car^ of me, and he 
 agreed to recompense them when h(i came-a^ain. But the 
 Shepherdess did not return, and I heard afterward that she 
 was sold for debt. I was unable to walk and ^had to be car- 
 ried ashore, ^^-v ,/;^ 
 
MY YOYAOE AROUND THE GLOBE. 47 
 
 TH AFTER V. 
 
 LIFE AMONG THE N ATI YES. 
 
 The old lady doctor— Primitive barbering- Lifa Lafa— An exisiting experience 
 —An object lesson— Learning the language— Go to. Tonga— A native festi- 
 val-Mr. Thomas, aiidhis unregenerate charge— Tiie bark Jane Eliza— The 
 dttrkey steward again^— News of the whaleship— Earthquakes— Go to Ya 
 vaunjlnterpreting— Choosing a tamai— Joseph Arnold— Work of the mis- 
 sions—Native characteristics, etc. 
 
 I was now alone with the islanders, sick, helpless and 
 entirely at their inercj. I could not understand a word of 
 their language, and tliev were equally .ignorant of English; 
 but they vvw*' kind to me. An old lady doctor took me in 
 charge, and tiit- tir^st thing she did was to shave the hair all 
 off my head with a mussle shell; called Neichfiugota. I 
 would not care to patronize a barber indefinitely who used 
 a razor of that description, but it did its work well, if it did 
 pull. They think it a good thing to do, and practice it in 
 tre<iting their own sick. She dosed me with roots and 
 herbs, but my appetite was poor. The old chief, my host, 
 would take up a chicken leg with his fingers and hand it to 
 me saying: "Kaikai ha,nga koi tagata tonganei,'' mean- 
 ing, "eat like our people." I would shake my head. The 
 old doctor woman brought me some sugar cane, took off 
 the crust, and I could eat, it tasted good. She next gave 
 me cocoanuts that had sprouted, the milk of the nut being 
 about the consistency of a mellow apple, and I could relish 
 them. With these she kept me well supplied. 
 
 They named me Nanea. I do not know what the name 
 is derived from. 
 
 The chief's family consisted of himself and wife, a boy 
 
48 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 about fourteen, a girl of sixteen or seventeen, and a female 
 relative a year or so older, as near as I could judge their 
 ages. 
 
 I shall never forget a little incident that happened the 
 third day of my stay on the island. The old chief and his 
 wife were away, visiting, I suppose. The ycung folks 
 amused themselves a long time playing a game called lafa, 
 lafa;: A fine mat is laid down with two opposite sides 
 turned under, forming a trough. Each player is provided 
 with a hard, smooth, flat nut about the size of a silver dol- 
 lar. Two or four can play and twentv is the game. The 
 lirst player slides a nut across the mat to as near the oppo- 
 site edge as possible and not fall off. The second endeavors 
 to knock it off and leave the nut he throws on the mat; and 
 so on in turn to the end of the game. 
 
 When they had tired of the game, the boy, because of a 
 longing for excitement, a little natural vindictiveness, or 
 both, bethought himself to have some fun at my expense. 
 The native weapons of war were stowed overhead. He pulled 
 down a war club and walked up to me. I was sitting on a 
 mat, unable to rise and stand upon my feet, to say nothing 
 of walking, running, or defending myself in any way. lie 
 brandished the club about my head until I thought he 
 meant to kill me. The girls cried: '^Tongaua! tongauaF, 
 meaning "stop! stopl" He suspended hostilities with the 
 club, took down a spear and amused himself by thrust- 
 ing it past my head, so close that I feared he would hit me; 
 but I could not help myself and had to take the insult. 
 
 About four o'clock the old chief returned, and I could see 
 by the looks of the girls that they were telling him what 
 had happened. He would cast a look at me, and while they 
 were talking the boy went out. The old man followed him, 
 but soon returned armed with a heavy whip and marching 
 the youngster in front of him up to within a few paces of 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 49 
 
 me, he went at liiio, and I have never seen anyone get such 
 a mauling before or since. I motioned for him to desist, 
 but he seemed to lay it on the harder and finished the job 
 to his own satisfaction. I felt that I should be protected 
 after that. I played with tlie boy frequently after I got 
 able to go out, but he never alluded to the affair, and would 
 do anythinp; for me. 
 
 My experiences of the first few weeks present an object 
 lesson, forcibly illustrating the fact that it is very easy to 
 be mistaken. I might as well have been a mute, as I could 
 not understand, or make myself understood in words. 
 Sometimes a party of a dozen or more would gather at the 
 chiefs house, some of them savage looking men. I would 
 sit for hours, listening and wondering what they could be 
 talking about. They might be plotting to kill me for all I 
 knew, and I watched the changing expressions of each face 
 to see if I could detect treachery. Imagine yourself in my 
 position and suppose that a burly savage of forbidding 
 countenance and in ugly mood, ^as he appears to you) 
 should approach and say: ''Jut afa kiackoi:' Another of 
 milder aspect and friendlier bearing comes and says: "Tara- 
 ata kiackoi:' You would doubtless be terrified by the first, 
 but conclude that in the second comer you had found a 
 sympathizer and friend. When, in fact, the former has ad- 
 dressed to you the beautiful national salutation, meaning: 
 "My love to you." While the words of the latter mean: "I 
 will kill you. I had some queer thoughts and unpleasant 
 feelings as 1 watched them, and passed some sleepless nights 
 before I learned to talk with them. 
 
 My old doctor woman attended tome faithfully, I want- 
 ed for nothing that she could get for me, and at the end 
 of six weeks I could walk in good shape. From this time 
 on I mingled with the natives and went about the island as 
 
50 :Nrv vovai.^. arouxd the (ilobe. 
 
 I pleased. Learnino," 1 hnir laiig-uage was the hardest work, 
 which took me about ten months. 
 
 When I had been on Harfeva about eleven months, two 
 large canoes from Vavau stopped at the Island, on their 
 way to Tonga to attend a native festival. The party con- 
 sisted of about fifty persons including the Tui, or king, I 
 embraced tlieopportunityto go where I could see a mission- 
 ary. We left Harfeva about 8 o'clock in the morning and 
 arrived at the island of Tonga that same evening, a little 
 after dark. I found a missionary by the name of Thomas. 
 He had been located there about four years. He seemed 
 very glad to see me, and invited me to stay with him while 
 the natives were holding their festival. I stopped at his 
 house about four weeks 
 
 Less than half of the natives of Tonga had been convert- 
 ed at this time. Mr. Thomas generally had a number of the 
 unconverted, usually boys and girls, staying with him to 
 receive religious instruction. When I was there he had two 
 boys and three girls with him, all converts except one girl. 
 The latter was a keen black-eyed girl, who was al waj^s play- 
 ing tricks, on the rest of us. WV used to repeat a verse and 
 repeat the Lord's prayer in concert every night. 
 
 One day the unregenerate female began to torment me 
 in various ways. I told her thab I would tell the mission- 
 ary, if she did not stop; bub she kept it up until I picked up 
 an old coffee mill that lay out in the back yard and threw 
 it at her. She threw things at me until I got tired of it and 
 threw a yam. It struck her, knocked her over, broke, and 
 a piece struck against the missionary's door and made quite 
 a racket. The next morning after breakfast and prayers 
 had been disposed of, the missionary asked us what the 
 trouble was. I did not feel in the best of spirits that morn- 
 ing, and told him T thought I had better go before I killed 
 some of these wild subjects. Told him further that I thought 
 
MY VOYAHE AROFXB THE GLOBE. 51 
 
 tlie quickest time I could make would be plenty slow 
 enou^'h. He tried to smooth the matter over, but I went 
 and stayed with the natives until the festival ended. 
 
 Mr. Thomas wanted me to help him talk to the natives 
 and make converts. I told him that I lacked the patience; 
 thought I could do more good, and better missionary work 
 by ordei-ing my actions to conform to his teachings, that I 
 always gave tliem the best advice I could whenever I had 
 an opportunity. 
 
 The bark Jane Eliza, of Sidney, came into port. She had 
 sprung a. leak and been condemned by the officers. One day 
 I was sitting near the beach and noticed a negro w^alking 
 back and forth along the shore. I thought it strange he 
 did not speak to me. Finally I went towards him and he 
 began to show his ivories. I said to him: "You black son 
 of Africa, wiiat are you doing here?" It was the old darkey 
 steward of the whale ship. He said he knew that I was 
 afraid to trust him when he proposed that we desert to- 
 gether. He swam ashoro the next night after 1 left. "How 
 c.ime you here?" he asked. I gave him a brief account of 
 my adventures since we departed onboard the whaler. He 
 gave me some information as co what befell the Margaret 
 Scott after we left her. About two weeks out out from Ta- 
 hiti the captain died and they gave his body to the sharks. 
 The "ohl hoss" had finished his last voyage The ofticers 
 brought the ship back to Tahiti and refused further charge 
 of her. A Uuited States cutter conveyed her to Sydney, 
 Australia, where she was put in charge of some one to finish 
 the voyage, or ta,ke her home. 
 
 One afternoon about four o'clock, I was under an orange 
 tree with some other boys. Suddenly we heard a rumbling 
 sound resembling distant thunder, and the earth began lo 
 vibrate. The leaves on the trees would turn up first on one 
 edge and then on the other. The disturbance lasted oiilv a 
 
52 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 few seconds and the rumbling sound passed on beyond our 
 hearing. Tiiid was my ^second and last earthquake. My 
 lirst experience was on Harfeva. One night while I was 
 preparing for bed. I felt things rattle and heard the natives 
 crying: ^'Koi mofaike!" That was a word I had not learned 
 up to that time and I said: '^Kui hai?— What is it?" I 
 found it signified that the island was moving. I thought 
 that is what we call an earthquake. It was only a slight 
 shock and there was no noise. They are not desirable visi- 
 tations and give a person queer sensations. 
 
 After the festival was over we sailed in the canoes for 
 Vavau, the second island of the group in point of size. We 
 stopped over night at a small island and reached our desti- 
 nation the second day. 
 
 An English missionary and family by the name of Turn- 
 er were located at Vavau. Two vessels, the Try ton and 
 John Williams brought them supplies from Sidney twice a 
 year. 
 
 I had the best possible opportunity to learn the natives' 
 characteristics, usages and customs, as I was with them all 
 the time, and when ships came to the island I did the inter- 
 preting for them. When you go among them to live they 
 want you to choose some chief, or other person as your tain- 
 ai, or father, and you are regarded and treated as a member 
 of his family. Their object is to have you help them in trad- 
 ing with the ships that visit them for that purpose. As I 
 could talk both English and Kanaka, 1 did most of the 
 trading for them, and the ship's captain would pay me 
 something as well as the other parties. 
 
 There was another white man on the island beside the 
 missionary and myself. He was about fifty-five years of 
 age, an old sailor, and a native of the state of Maine. His 
 name was Joseph Arnold. He had been struck by a whale 
 and his shoulder and hip broken. He had lived with the 
 
ilY VOYACiE AROUND THE GLOBE. 53 
 
 Kanaka« longer than I, but could not speak the languao-e. 
 He was a blacksmith by trade. 
 
 The natives are a happj race of people and seldom have 
 onj'' contention aniopg themselves. Thev are governed bj 
 a tui, or king, and chiefs called aga and hoaga. Tliej have 
 but few laws and these are made by consent of the majority 
 duly assembled. The code is simple and they have no use 
 for lawyers. They have a large building, called, farle fonu, 
 or house of law, where they meet once a year, where such 
 changes as may be agreed upon, if any, are made. The 
 king, the chiefs and all who desire may come and take an 
 interest in hearing and enacting the tabus. 
 
 Idolatry had been abolished throughout the group, ex- 
 cepting the large island of Tonga, where only about one 
 third of the natives had been converted at the time of which 
 I write. In their heathen state they worship the sun, or 
 La,r2 as the source of all light, aad the moon and other ob- 
 jects as lesser deities. They have been slow to change their 
 superstitions regarding marriage and burial of the dead; 
 i.>i}nthe missionaries have wrought a wonderful change in 
 them since they have been among them. They would often 
 :isk me if we v/ere all Christians in Amalika. I had to ad- 
 mit that such was not the cast-. They thought it strange, 
 as we had the Bible and were enlightened. I explained in 
 this wsy: Some will never be (Jliristians under any circum- 
 stances, because they are controlled or influenced by a 
 hiuraalie oku kov'i, (a ba i spirit) while others were in- 
 fluenced by launmUe naoni am, (the hcly spirit. ) 
 
 The sciiools were taught by the missionaries and their 
 wiyes, and were yet in their infancy. They had a small 
 hand printing press and had published leaves and pamph- 
 lets, and translations of portions of the Bible, (of the New 
 Testament, principally) into the native tongue. ^ Old a/id 
 ynnng could be seen going to school with these leaves in 
 
54 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 their hands, all pvidently aDxioiis to learn. They had 
 printed some small hymn books, also, and many of the 
 pupils could read and sing very well, considering that they 
 had been under instruction only a. short time. The mis- 
 sionaries drilled them nearly every da.y and exhibited great 
 patience in teaching them, They held morning, afternoon 
 and evening meetings, and singing was a regular feature 
 every session. 
 
 I learned the alphabet of the young man who run the 
 printing press, and can read some. Nearly all of the letters 
 have the broad sound. ~i is eand e is a. Example: Tagata, 
 a as in car. There are not as many letters as in the Eng- 
 lish alphabet. 
 
 They are fond of company, very social and great talkers. 
 They haye gatherings, festivals and amusements nearl^^ 
 every week, and are very friendly and kind to each other. 
 
 Comparing the pagans on the island of Tonga with their 
 converted neighbors, I could detect very little difference in 
 their mode of living. They traded and mingled together in 
 social intercourse without contention. The missionary and 
 converted portion had tried to frighten them into Christ- 
 ianity by threats of war, but to no purpose. They were 
 ready to fight rather than give up their way of worship, and 
 the attempt to coerce them was abandoned. 
 
 Their worst enemies were the Fiji islanders, with whom 
 they fought several battles. The Fijians were the aggres- 
 sors, coming to attack the Friendly islanders in large 
 canoes. They always went away satisfied that they were 
 whipped. 
 
 The Fijians are a quarrelsome people. They appear to 
 be a different race from the natives of any other group in 
 the South Pacific. They are different in feature, darker of 
 complection and are fierce, warlike, treacherous and restless 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 Oo 
 
 in the extreme. I huve talked with them about their mean 
 ness, but they did not care to converse on that subject. 
 
 Thej are a large, well formed, athletic people, able to 
 endure any amount of hardship. The Fiji p;roup comprises 
 about eighty islands. The chmate is fine and all tropical 
 fruits grow to perfection. 
 
 I understand that they have since been converted to 
 Christianity, the Friendly islanders assisting the mission- 
 aries materially in the work. 
 
5G MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 (CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ETFE AMONG THE ^XTiVE-i.— Continued. 
 
 The native dress— Manufactures; cloth, ma's, etc., — Cooking— Bread fruit— The 
 cocaanut tree and fruit — Marriage ceremony — The feitoka or native ceme- 
 teiy— Turtle hunting— Rambles in the interior— The tabued grave— The 
 missionary's goat— Tlie vaka or native canoe. 
 
 The natives are very clean and tidv, considerui;^ the 
 way iu which they have to live. The dress consists of a vala 
 made from the bark of a tree called tutu. This tree is 
 about four inches in circumference and about eight feet in 
 height. The bark being verj^ tough and strong is stripped 
 off in one piece. It is then soaked in salt water, and the 
 browQ or outside bark which is very thin is scraps.! off with 
 a iinife or shell. The strip is then laid over a smooth tim- 
 ber and beaten with an instrument called ika, i. e. a squai-e 
 stick about a foot long, with two smooth faces and two 
 grooved lengthwise. Beating with the grooved sides spreads 
 the bark and with the smooth sides reduces it to even thick- 
 ness. The finished strips are about one foot in width, and 
 when they have prepared a sufficient quantity they paste them 
 together, three layers thick, and the finished product is col- 
 ored in stripes and checks. The coloring matter is obtain- 
 ed from a certain nut. A fine mat with a braided fringe, 
 called a chichi is worn over the vala. Tlie headdress com- 
 pletes the native costume, and is made by plaiting small 
 fibers of cocoanut husk, interwoven with a small perfumed 
 bud called kakala. 
 
 As the temperature is always warm they never suffer 
 from cold, or momoko, as they call it. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 57 
 
 Sometimes they buy cotton cloth of the traders. Thej 
 had not learned the us 3 or value of money, or paanga, but 
 bartered their commodities for hatrhets, flint lock muskets, 
 lookingglasses, beads, blue or brown denims, etc. It cost 
 but very little in shipping to get supplied with all the 
 fresh provisions ne«=^ded. At that time you could buy 
 a pig that would weigh from 100 to 150 pounds for ofa ua, 
 that is two reaches of cloth with the arms outstretched. 
 The natives paid a good price for everything they got. 
 
 The islanders had a rude and novel way of cooking. In 
 the first place they built a beto, or cook-house. Then in 
 the center of the earth floor they dug a hole about four feet 
 in width by two in depth and paved the bottom with small 
 cobble stones. 'When the pig (which is always roasted 
 whole), and the vegetables are ready, a fire is built in the 
 oven and kept burning until the stones are properly heated, 
 when the coals are raked out and some small limbs are laid 
 over the stones, on which the pig is laid. A few small stones 
 are heated, wrapped in dry banana leaves and placed 
 inside the pig. They have a laro:e leaf called lepa, 
 about the size of a large cabbage leaf, that is tough. 
 Four or five of tliese a,re firmly yjinned together with cocoa- 
 nut leaf stalks, and the oven is covered four or five inches 
 thick with these pads of lepa. Over this is placed a layer o 
 soil about two inches thick. After about an hour they 
 scrape off the layer of soil, remove the lepa covering, and 
 the pig and contents are found baked as nicely. and evenly 
 as anything you ever saw. They bake once a week, but never 
 eat warm food, or use warm drinks. They think it injures 
 the health and is bad for the teeth. I think they are about 
 right, as I never saw one of them with decayed teeth. 
 
 The cooked meat is cut into small pieces, wrapped in dry 
 banana leaves and hungup. The atmosphf^re is so pure 
 
58 ilY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 that it seldom spoils. Neio^hbor divides with neio:hbor, and 
 they accommodate each other without stint. 
 
 The bread-fruit tree grows luxuriently, is an abundant 
 and perpetual bearer in most of the south sea islands, and 
 furnishes wholesome sustenance without cultivation. The 
 natives are very liberal and supply ships with fresh provis- 
 ions for little or notliing. Uninhabited islands are stocked 
 with hogs and fowls, free to all the world in cases of ship- 
 wreck. There is plenty of cocoannts, fruits, etc., for them 
 to feed on, and left to themselves they thrive and multiply. 
 
 Thf» bread-fruit tree attHins a height of from ten to 
 twenty feet. The leaf is much the size and shape of a maple 
 leaf. The fruit is borne on small branches of the large 
 limbs, is a little oblong in shape, is about as large as an 
 average sized cabbage head when fully grown, and of a 
 greenish color. When cut a milky substance oozes out. and 
 it is not good to eat raw. It is very white after it is baked, 
 but has a centre core that is not good to eat. There are 
 other ways of preparing it. One method is to pound, 
 knead, roll and cut it into small pieces. These are placed 
 in a dish, sugar-cane juice and cocoanut milk is added and 
 the whole cooked over a slow tire until it thickens and 
 resembles sweetened cream. The natives called it feikekai. 
 It is an extra dish with them an most anyone would relish 
 it. In whatever manner prepared, the bread-fruit is a 
 healthful and very nutritious food. The tree has economi- 
 cal value beside the fruit. The limbs are used for rafters in 
 building their houses. They are tied together with kafa., 
 and are of sufficient strength to sustain the light thatch of 
 cane or cocoanut leaves with which they are covered. The 
 bread-fruit is a staple article with them. 
 
 The cocoanut tree is called niu by the natives, and its 
 fruit is of great value to them. It grows luxuriently with- 
 out CM re or culture. When ripe, the nuts fall to the ground 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE OLOBE. 59 
 
 and lie a year or more uatil the rainy season comes on and 
 moistens the husk and the soil. You have noticed the three 
 circular spots, or scars near the large end of a cocoanut. In 
 one of these the shell is thin enough to be ensily pierced with 
 a pin, and from it the sprout starts. The kernel, or meat 
 consists largely of albumen and furnishes nourishment for 
 the young- plant; and the milk furnishes moisture. The tree 
 begins to bear when eight to ten years old, and continues 
 to bear for many years. Full grown trees are about two 
 feet in diameter, and from sixty to one hundred feet high. 
 The nuts grow on a stem yery much like grapes, and may 
 be seen in all stages of development on the same stem, from 
 ripe nuts at the base to blossoms at the apex. The fruit 
 stems grow out from the base of the leaves. From this tree 
 they constructed their houses complete without using a nail. 
 The frame work is tied together in nice shape with kafa, or 
 sinnet. Kafa is made from the husk of the nut and is very 
 strong, and is used for many other purposes, such as fish 
 lines and nets, boat building and larger ropes. Their roofs 
 are thatched with the leaves, their floors are carpeted with 
 mats braided of same, called tajkapau, and mat« form the 
 doors and walls. They make combs of the split ends ot leaf 
 stalks. 
 
 The sap is used as a beverage. To obtain it, a blossom 
 stem is cut off above the nuts, and a dish made of a shell 
 called a bohonie is hung beneath to catch the flow. 
 From one to four quarts of sap are obtainedfrom each stem. 
 It tastes like sweet cider, and by distilling it the natives get 
 a sort of liquor that is very intoxicating. 
 
 To get the oil, the nuts are broken, then scraped over an 
 iron with teeth filed into it and nailed to a pieae of clrnber. 
 The meat or oil substance falls into a trough, and when it 
 is full it is set in the sun and covered with a thin mat, and 
 the oil runs out after it stands a while. The oil is sold to 
 
60 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 traders and yields quite a revenue. They use the oil for 
 anointing the body, and when deliciously perfumed with 
 sandalwood, for oiling the hair. They make very service- 
 able baskets of the leaves by splitting the mid-rib and bend- 
 ing the halves together to form the rim, then plaiting the 
 leaflets. The milk of young eocoanuts is much used for 
 drinking and cooKing. The shells are scraped, polished and 
 ornamented for dishes. They fatten their hogs on the meat 
 and use the shells for fuel. Most of their cordage is made 
 from the fiber of the husk. The cocoanutpalm may be said 
 to be the mainstay of the Kanaka. 
 
 VAKAMAU. OR Marriage Ceremony. 
 A marriage is a gala occasion, celebrated by feasting 
 and general rejoicing. In anticipation of the event, the 
 friends and relatives of each contracting party roasts pigs 
 and bread-fruit, and prepare the most elaborate spread 
 of viands the country affords. In the fore part of the day 
 set for the ceremony, the groom's party exchange what 
 they have prepared for that contributed by the bride's 
 friends, and they eat, and drink kava, and have a social 
 time until about four o'clock in the afternoon, when they all 
 assemble together. The contracting parties meet, shake 
 hands and sit together, and the feasting continues until all 
 are satisfied. The couple then comes forward and stand 
 before the aga, or chief. The chief's wife brings wreathes of 
 perfumed buds, and places one upon the head and another 
 around the waist of each. Thy aga then gives them some 
 good advice, and pronounces them man and wife. A dance 
 by moonlight usually closes the festivities. They dance 
 in a circle, or waltz. They have reeds of different sizes and 
 lengths that they play with considerable skill, making very 
 good music. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 61 
 
 Since the missionaries have been m mo n^- them, thej 
 mar?-y them over again accordinji- to church forrnula. As 
 man and wife thev 11 ye together in harmony, and divorces 
 and family quarrels are unheard of. In m;iny respects we 
 might pattern after them to our advantage. Their moral 
 character is good (speaking of the Friendly islanders), and 
 are a thrifty and tidy people, keeping tlinir abas, or yards, 
 clean and in good order. They take pride in raising yams, 
 bananas and other fruits. 
 
 A cemetery, or feitoka hs they call it, is enclosed by a 
 wall of cocoanut logs four feet high, and the entire space 
 filled in level with the top of the wall. When one of their 
 people dies they wrap him in native cloth, and bury with 
 him some of the implements he has used in life. If he was a 
 warrior, a, war club, or spear is laid beside him. After the 
 grave is filled with earth they bring baskets of small, white 
 pebbles and sea shells and lay them on the grave. The 
 baskets are made of cocoanut le.ives, as heretofore describ- 
 <'d, and after they have been once used for this purpose, it 
 is tahu, or against the law to use them for anything else, 
 and they throw them into a hole and never touch them 
 again. It was their heathen custom to howl and cry for 
 three days, lamenting for the departed, but they gave this 
 up when they embraced Christianitj'. 
 
 During certain months of the year the turtles come up 
 on the beach to lay their eggs, choosing, generally, the 
 outlying, uninhabited islands. The natives go over in ca- 
 noes and hunt them, armed with spears, or sticks. When 
 one of them sights a turtle he makes a rush at him, and the 
 turtle makes for the water, all the time throwing sand back 
 with his claws, as a defense. But they turn him over on his 
 back and he is captured. The shell is cut off dried and pre 
 pared for sale to the traders. At that time it was worth 
 
62 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 four dollars a pound in Sydney. It is manufactured into 
 combs and other articles. 
 
 When I first came to the island of Vavau, the natives 
 were all strangers to me, of course. But I went freely when 
 I pleased. I would start off on a tramp, following their 
 paths or halas, and penetrate mto the interior. It was a 
 beautiful conntry. At many places the hmbs of the trees 
 int«^rlocked over the path. At intervals of two or three 
 miles I would come to villages, or settlements of half a doz- 
 en houses, perhaps, delightfully situated amid the groves of 
 orange, banana, and bread fruit. The children playing in 
 the shade would be the first to notice my approach, and 
 run to the house crying ^papalangi,'' meaning foreigner. I 
 would go to the house and say: ''Jut ofa kia ^oa," that is 
 "my love to you," their usual way of accosting each ether. 
 The reply would be: ^'Takanofa/^ that is "come in and ."it 
 down," — wondering that I could speak their language. After 
 talking awhile they would express themselves as very glad 
 that I came to see them, and I often remaintd four or five 
 days. They would ask me all about Amalika. When j 
 would tell them of the cold {momoko) so severe that rain 
 {fefeka) gets hard, they would shrug their shoulders and 
 say: '^Takoi manavaha," meaning, that beats all. It was 
 very hard to explainabout railroads and many other things 
 so that they could understand I. Sometimes I would be gune 
 two weeks at a time, wandering from one settlement to an- 
 other, and found them always a hospitable people, eager to 
 listen and learn all they could about other countries. 
 
 I was walking with a native one day, some distance 
 from any settlement, and we came to a certain thicket. He 
 pointed to it and said: "There is a place that is tabu for 
 us to go." I asked him what he meant by saying it was 
 tabu, and he re!a,ted this story: Sjme years previoa-s there 
 were two men living on the islauc^, one a Cape Yorde Port- 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. C)3 
 
 uo'ese and the other a Spaniard. They botli fell in love 
 with the same native girl. At a party one evening-, the girl 
 was eating a piece of sngar cane. The Spaniard asked her 
 to give him some of it, and she refused. The Portugese 
 said: "I think she will divide with me." and said to her: 
 ''Makonga tosi?'' and she broke it and gave him a part. 
 The Spaniard was offended and jealous, and that night he 
 went to the house where the Portugese staid and killed him. 
 "An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth," is the native 
 law They pursued themurderer, and on the third day they 
 caught him in this thi»ket, clubbed him to death and buried 
 him where he fell. He had a bad spirit {lajumalie) and no 
 native would go near his graye. 
 
 As we traveled through the woods we cameacross droves 
 of pigs all sizes, running wild, fowls of domestic breed that 
 had been in the thicket so long that fchey would run, fly and 
 skulk under the bushes at oar approach. 
 
 The Friendly Islands are very well timbered, but very 
 little use is made of it except for fuel and canoe building. 
 Tiiere was at one time quite a trade in sandal wood, but it 
 had been mostly cut off, or died out. 
 
 Some of the islands are well supplied with good fresh 
 water springs; others have no fresh water at all except what 
 they catch in cisterns, but the milk of young cocoanuts is 
 the principal beverage of the natives. 
 
 Sugar cane and sea island cotton grows on most of the 
 groups. 
 
 The Friendly islanders are a healthy, well formed, athlet- 
 ic people, of a light brown color. Some of them areas white 
 as the English. They are expert swimmers, and have killed 
 sharks with knives. They told me of two young women 
 who swam from Tonga to Oua, a distance of eight miles, on 
 one occasion when they were at war with the Fijians. 
 
 One time when the missionary vessel, Tryton, came in 
 
64 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 with supplies, she brought with the rest a two wheeled cart, 
 to use in transporting the goods from the landing to the 
 warehouse. As the missionary was going away that day 
 to preach on a small island near by, he requested me to 
 procure some native boys and oversee the work of hauling 
 and stowing the goods left by the vessel. I engaged the 
 services of about a dozen boys, and they did the hauling by 
 means of ropes attached to the cart. They would sing as 
 they trudged along, making a fearful noise, in full chorus* 
 As we approached the warehouse in the back yard, we 
 passed a narrow lane, fenced with reeds about eight feet 
 high, that led up to the back door of the mission house. 
 This door consisted of two sections, like a mill door. To 
 the left as you entered the door, was the dining room, and 
 the table was spread for dinner. The back and front win- 
 dow of the dming room were in line with the place where T 
 stood, and I could see the interior plainly. The missionary 
 had a large goat that furnished the milk for tea. As we 
 swung into view, with the vocal band in full play, I noticed 
 the goat in the lawn, and that the upper half of the duor 
 was open. I saw at once that the animal was frightened by 
 the noise, and I tried to stop the boys, but they did not 
 hear me. The goat selected the door as the only means of 
 escape, and leaped over the closed half. The girls screamed^ 
 the goat rushed into the dining room, sprang upon the ta- 
 ble and swept cloth, dishes and all to the floor with an in- 
 fernal clatter, and the next bound went through the -vindow 
 carrying glass, sash and all into the front yard. The boys 
 left me in a hurry and hid, Mrs. Turner came out and 
 lectured me severely. She used no profane language, but 
 looked very much like it, said she would never have thought 
 it of an Englishman. But sh<' soon saw that I was not to 
 blame, as I could not manage a piratical crew of boys. The 
 old man came home next morning. He met me with a smile 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 05 
 
 and said: ''You had bad luck, bnt I cannot bianip any onp, 
 as accidents will happen." I asked his forgiveness. 
 
 In building the vaka,, or native canoe, they first erect a 
 boat-house in which the canoe is built and kept until ready 
 to launch. The material is accumulated and the craft 
 planned. Then, as we would say, they make a bee, and on 
 the day set as many as forty may be seen engaged in the 
 work. Some making ka,fa, or sinnet with which the plaidcs 
 are fastened together. Not a nail or piece of iron of finy 
 description enters into the construction of the vessel. Some 
 a.re hewing planks for the sides. The planks are dressed 
 with a groove on both edges. The grooves lap one into an- 
 other as the planks are built together, pierced with holes 
 and thejoint laced firmly \y\t\ikafci. When the timber is not 
 of sutficient length, they splice the ends so that they cannot 
 pull ap.irt. All the joints and seams are calked, orgummed 
 with a material of their own make. Some of these canoes 
 are seventy -five feet long, fourteen foot beam, witli four to 
 six fept depth of hold. When the large canoe is finished 
 tliH^y build a smaller one, and the two are placed about ten 
 feel apart and fastened together by cross beams decked 
 over. In sailing the craft, the small canoe is always kept 
 to windward. It takes about two years to build one of 
 this magnitude, as they only work on it at intervals, and 
 arn provided for the use of the king or missionary. The 
 method of sailing the vaka\s, very ingenious. The short 
 mast, working on a pivot, can be slacked over to either end 
 of the canoe. When they g^t under way the yard is hauled 
 up to the head of the mast, then inclined at such an angle 
 that the mast, the yard and the deck form a triangle; the 
 halyards acting as stays. When rhey want to go about 
 the mast is slacked over to the reverse, the tack and sheet 
 change places and the stem becomes the stern. They can 
 
66 
 
 MY VOYAGE AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 steer from either end, as bow and stern are alike. The sails 
 are woven of rushes or bark. With a fair breeze, the craft 
 is capable of making fifteen knots an hour. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 67 
 
 CHAPTER YII. 
 
 LIFE AMONG THE ^sATIYES.—ConclurJec]. 
 
 Joe Arnold, pilot, and the missionary's cast off beaver hat— Piloting and inter- 
 preting—Joe's blacksmithing outfit — Our business flourishes— Chief Nafau, 
 my tamai (father)— Sad fate of a young whaleman— Flogging a brutal pun- 
 ishment—A better way — Capt. Benj, Price of Boston— Lif the natives; their 
 history, manners, customs, etc.— Capt. Bligh's estimate— Old Joe and Cap- 
 tain Clark— Natives ot different gr oups compared- 
 
 On this group of thirteen isl mds there were only four 
 white men, the two missionaries, Joseph Arnold and my- 
 self. I have mentioned old Joe heretofore. Hewasa. happy 
 dispositioned, queer old genius. As he was a blacksmith by 
 trade, it was his ambition to get a bellows and a few tools, 
 so that he could do work for the Kanakas. He sat think- 
 ing for some time one day, and finally said to me: ''I have 
 thought out a plan, and if it works I believe it will help us. 
 We have heretofore assisted ships to enter the harbor, free 
 of charge. Hereafter we must act as pilots and get paid 
 for our services. I am going up to old man Turner's and 
 see if he has a plug hat I can borrow, or buy; that will make 
 us look dignified as pilots should. Perhaps I can get ma- 
 terial for a bellovvs, and a few tools. I think it will pay."' 
 So away he went to see the old missionary. In about half 
 an hour he returned with the hat It had seen its best days, 
 but we repaired it by wiping it, pressing out the short kinks 
 and applying a little cocoanut oil to lay the nap and re- 
 store the polish. About three weeks later the natives sight- 
 ed a ship in the offtng, standing in towards the island. We 
 engaged two natives with their canoe to take us out to the 
 inlet of the bay, about three miles. We put on our best 
 
68 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 rigging, Joe wearing the hat and sporting a cane; we made 
 quite a respectable appearance. When we met the ship, she 
 backed her main yard and hove to. We went on board and 
 asked if they wanted a pilot. The captain asked our price. 
 Joe told him one dollar a foot for the water she drew, 
 seventeen feet, and take it in trade,— clothing, efcc. Money 
 was not legal tender at that tirn9. Tlae captain said: "All 
 right; tike char;>:e ot the sailing of the ship." There was 
 only one plaje in the bay where there was good am-horage; 
 that was in eight fathoms of water. The rest of the bay 
 was from twenty to forty fathoms deep, and we might have 
 run the jibboon mto the bushes anywhere without ground- 
 ing the ship. There was absolutely nothing in the way of 
 coming to the anchorage, but the old pilot would have the 
 men changing the course, or shifting s.iil to avoid an ima- 
 ginary shoal or rock. And I would be tellling the men in 
 the hearing of the officers, that Joe was an accomplished 
 pilot, and knew every foot of ground in the bay. We came 
 to an anchor all right. Joe bought material for a bellows; 
 canvass, pitch, tar, nails and an old gun barrel to serve as 
 a nozzle or pipe to carry wind to the forge; some tools,— 
 tongs, hammer, tiles and a small vice. The balance of our 
 pilot's fee, and five dollars additional that I got for inter- 
 preting while they were securing supplies, we took in cloth- 
 ing and other articles. After our return home, we would 
 have a good time cuffing the old beaver up to a peak, then 
 we would slick it up again for the good it had done and 
 hang it up to await the arrival of another ship. 
 
 We next had the Kanakas bring us a log about eight 
 feet long, borrowed a pit saw from the missionary and made 
 lumber for the bellows. When the frame was made, we cov- 
 ered it with the canvass, applied pitch and tar, and when 
 all complete we had quite a respectable looking and servi(^e- 
 able bellows. It was not nearl3^as air tight <is many I have 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 69 
 
 seen, bufc it made wind enough to make the wood and char- 
 coal sp irkle, and answered our tnrn very well. 
 
 One day two natives brought an old musket that would 
 not stand cocked, and wanted to know what Joe would 
 charge to repair it. The smith said: "Bring me four good 
 hogs, one hundred cocoanuts and twenty yams." They 
 asked when the gun would be ready. Joe told them about 
 one week. All Joe did was to file the notch in the dog, po- 
 lish the old firelock up a little and it was all right. It took 
 him about half an hour. Thpy brought the stipulated fee, 
 and the articles thus obtained we sold to trading vessels. 
 Joe said to me: "I told you it wonld pav." 
 
 The natives bathe regularly every morning, considering 
 the practice es^^ential to the preservation of health. They 
 know nothing of their nrgin or geneology. I often ques- 
 tioned them on this subject^ but could gain very little infor- 
 mation, as they had never invented a method of keeping 
 records. Their traditions are vague and indefinite, dating 
 back to the time of somJfavorite ruler, Fenau,for instance, 
 who was a good king. They had no method of computing 
 time, and could not tell their ages. Since the missionaries 
 came among them, they have caught them the scheme of 
 the calendar and something of our method of dividing and 
 computing time by days, weeks, months and years. 
 
 In their towns or settlements, each dwelling stands in 
 an aba (yard) about one half acre in extent, enclosed by a 
 neat, serviceable fence. To build the fence, posts are set in 
 the ground at regular intervals, to which small poles are 
 securely lashed with kafa. A reed, called kahu, is cat in 
 lengths of about eight feet, set upright close together, like 
 pickets, and lashed to the poles, completing the structure. 
 Each dwelling comprises four separate falas (houses.) They 
 cook in one, dine in the second, sleep in the third, and the 
 fourth is the general living or sitting room Sometimes 
 
70 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 accommodations are provided for others beside the family. 
 The lots were square, of uniform size, and separated by hfi- 
 las (streets) about twelve feet wide, which was sufficient, as 
 they had no teams or vehicles of any kind. 
 
 Old Nafau, my tamai (father), was the chief that ranked 
 next to the king. His wife, my fsie (mother), was named 
 Alieka. He was a very ^ood man. He had a house built 
 for me. It took four men about four days to do the job. 
 
 A whaJeship from New London, Conn., stopped at the 
 island for fresh proyisions. I made the acquaintance of one 
 of the crew, a young man about twenty-five years of ages, 
 from Hartford, Conn. His manners and conversation in- 
 dicated the gentleman of refinement and education. One 
 day he told me his story. He was the s(m of wealthy and 
 respected parents, and a college graduate. If I remember 
 rightly, it was disappointment in a Irve affair that caused 
 him to go to New London and ship aboard the whaler, con- 
 trary to the wishes of his parents and friends. Once out at 
 sea, he began to reflect and regretted the rash step he had 
 taken, when it was too late. He had signed the ship's arti- 
 cles for the voyage, and must abide bv the contract. He 
 tried to persuade the captain to let him go at the first har- 
 bor they entered, but the captain told him he had no au- 
 thority to discharge good men. 
 
 I was attracted to the young man from the first; his 
 sad story and evident distress completely won my sympa- 
 thy, and when he asked me to assist him in getting away 
 from the ship, I told him I would do the best I could. He 
 expressed his gratitude, and said he would reward me for 
 my kindness, if we should ever meet in our own country. 
 He said the whale ship had become so disgusting to him 
 that life aboard of her was unbearable. I told him I was 
 sorry for him and would do all in niy power to secrete him 
 until the ship w^^nt away. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUXD THE GLOBE. 71 
 
 I have described fie large canoes and mentioned the fact 
 that they are kept stowed in a large building, erected for 
 the purpose, when not in use. As tlie natives seldom use 
 these large sea going craft, T selected one of them as the 
 PTOst available retreat for my protege. Eyery night I car- 
 ried him eatables, and cocoanuts to drink. The officers 
 looked for him, but apparently gave up the search and put 
 to sea. A-fter the ship had been gone three days, the young 
 man concluded there wa« no dangr^r thit she would return j 
 and came out of hiding. The missionary vessel was expect- 
 ed soon, and he thought he might get passage in her to 
 Sydney, where he might stand a chance to get a ship hom >. 
 I found him to be as represented, a gentleman in every re- 
 spect. About sunrise on the morning of the fourth day, we 
 were talking together near the landing, not thinking of 
 danger, when the chief officer and four men came upon us. 
 They were so near when we discovered their presence that 
 retreat was impossible. He gave himself up, but told the 
 officer he would never do any more work on the whale ship. 
 The ship had laid off and on, standing out to sea during 
 the day and returning at night. I had heard of this trick 
 before, and had warned the young man that they might 
 play it on him,, but he thought the ship had gone. He felt 
 bad, but had to go. I saw one of his shipmates two years 
 later, in Honolulu, and learned his sad fate. After they got 
 him aboard of the ship, he refused to work and they seized 
 him up to the rigging and whipped him terribly. Again he 
 refused to work and they stripped him the second time and 
 flogged him until the blood ran down his back. He finally 
 went to work and sometime afterwards was one of a boat's 
 crew that went after a right whale. They fastened to the 
 whale and the monster struck the boat with his flukes, threw 
 it into the air and killed two men. ., My friend was hurt, or 
 killed by the blow, ns he did not rise to the surface and was 
 
7'2 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE CLOEK. 
 
 never seen again. When the sailor told me of his death, I 
 felt as though I had lost an intimate friend. 
 
 I consider flogging one of the most disgraceful and bru- 
 tish punishments that man can inflict upon his fellow man, 
 and It is well that it has been abolished. No officer ever 
 practiced it without gaining the ill-will of his men, that 
 sometimes culminated in mutiny. 
 
 I think there is a better way than to flog men. An in- 
 stance that occurred on board the ship I came home in will 
 serve to illustrate. One of the crew was a Scotch boy. He 
 was at the wheel, the second mate spoke to him, thought 
 the boy's answer did not show due respect to the dignity of 
 a superior, and had him seized up to the rigging. While the 
 officers were at dinner the men cut him down and had him 
 in the forecastle taking his dinner. The officer came to the 
 companion way and called for the! boy to come up on deck. 
 We told him he would come when he had eaten his dinner. 
 When the boy went aft, the captain met him and talked to 
 him as a father would to a son. It did the boy more good 
 than a dozen floggings. That was Captain Benjamin Price, 
 of Boston; that was his way, and his men all respected him. 
 He was then a white-haired old man of sevent^'-two years, 
 had made eighteen East India voyages, and served under 
 Commodore Perry, on Lake Erie, in the war of 1812 This 
 ^as his last sea voyage. 
 
 How were these islands inhabited? How and from 
 whence did they come? nearly three thousand miles from 
 the mainland, Austmlia being the nearest. They have no 
 knowledge of navigation, or yessels suitable for so long a 
 voyage. There are several groups, Society, Samoa n, 
 Friendly, Fiji, New Hebrides and others, audit is a remark- 
 able fact that the Fiji islanders area different race of people 
 than are found on the other groups, darker complection- 
 ed, different in feature and disposition. They have been 
 
MY VOYAOtE around THE GLOBE. 78 
 
 harder to civilize or Christialiize. The Fijis are surrounded 
 by the other groups. It' the original inhabitants had been 
 driven from some distant shore, lost at sea and finally land- 
 ed on one of the groups, from whence they gradually spread 
 from island to island, naturally they would be all of one 
 race. 
 
 The natives never venture fai" from their own islands. 
 The fcf'Utheast trade winds blow from nearly thesame direc- 
 tion the year round, and with the sun and stars serves to 
 guide them from one island to another. 
 
 When I was with them in 1842, a few were yet living who 
 remembered Capt. (;;ook, and showed me presents he gave 
 them when he stopped there on his voyage around the 
 world. They had no recollection or tradition of ships com- 
 ing to their shores before his time, and it must have been 
 many years, if ever. 
 
 They have no idea of their origin, or from whence they 
 came. They worship their otua, or God, believe mlaumalie 
 or spirit, believe in and practice cu'cumcision and worship 
 idols. I have seen some of their idols and talked with them 
 about their worship, but could gain no definite ideas from 
 them. They are a very singular people. They do not in- 
 crease rapidly or their islands would be overrun, and their 
 feitokas (cemeteries) are not large. The islands would sup- 
 port a dense population, as half the area might be convert- 
 ed into the richest of gardens, and the other half be suffi- 
 (dent for the natural fruit groves. 
 
 They are very careful sailors. When going from one island 
 to another they start early so as to sight land before dark. 
 If the winds are light they use their paddles, also. In that 
 latitude the nights are short. I have made voyages of 
 sevi'i-al hundred miles with them, and had no fear that they 
 would not make the passage safely. These seas are seldom 
 swept by heayy storms, and with sails taken in the canoes 
 
74 MY A^OYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 will stand pretty rough weather, but would not proye sea- 
 worthy for long' voyages; and I do not think the natives 
 originally came to theislands in similar crafts, as emigrants 
 from some foreign shore. 
 
 One day, as Joe and I sat together swapping tales of 
 adventure, the natives reported another ship in sight, head- 
 ed for the island. We gathered up our outfit, gave the old 
 beaver a good brushing, boarded our canoe and went out 
 and met the ship. This was the third ship we brought into 
 the harbor. Joe mounted to the deck with great dignity, 
 and as soou as the captain saw him he called out: "Hello! 
 Joe Arnold, is that you?" Joe replied: "Hello, Capt. Clark, 
 I never expected to see you again this side oi our happy 
 home!" "Well, Joe," said the captain, "you appear to be 
 all right." Joe said: "Do you want a pilot?— that is my 
 business at present." "Can you take us in?" "If T can't, 
 this old beaver can." ' All right, the men will obey your 
 orders." We brought the ship to anchor and had supper 
 with the captain. During our conversation, he said to Joe: 
 "I am homeward bound, and if you will go home with me, 
 you will fare as good as I, and need not do a hands turn." 
 Joe had made three whaling voyages with him. Joe replied: 
 "Captain Clark, you see that rise of ground?" (pointing 
 shoreward) "that is our feitoka or cemetery. I shall lay my 
 bones there,— if you would give me half of the city of Bos- 
 ton, I would not go home with you." "Well," said the 
 captain, "I think you have a pleasant place to live here and 
 a fine climate; I will not urge you, bub would like j'-our com- 
 panj^ home," "Thank you, Captain, lamsatifled here with 
 the Kanakas." Captain Clai'k appeared to be a fine man. 
 He paid us twelve dollars pilotage. I assisted him in pur- 
 chasing supplies, for which he paid me liberally. 
 
 The British ship, Bounty, wa,s sent to these islands by 
 the English government for the purpose of collecting bread 
 
MY YOYAfrE AROUND THE GLOBE. 75 
 
 fruit plants for the West Indies. She i^emained six months, 
 and the following extract from the report of her comman- 
 der, Captain Bligh, is a. just tribute to the natiYes: 
 
 "They were a mild tempered, socijil and affectionate race, 
 livino; in the utmost hirmony among themselves, and their 
 whole lives being one unvaried round of cheerful content- 
 ment, luxurious ease, and healthful exercise and amusement. 
 The women are handsome, mild and cheerful in their man- 
 ners and conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and 
 have sufficient delicacy to make them admired and be- 
 loved." 
 
 Tiiey were very kind to me, and wished me to remain 
 with them, but I was young and wished to see other parts 
 of the globe. I have never found a better or more healthful 
 climate than these islands, but the thought of being so far 
 away from civilzation made me lonely at times; but I have 
 found that it makes but little difference where a person is, 
 if he is contented with his lot. 
 
 In going about among the different groups, I learned 
 something of human nature, and had an opportunity to 
 note the changes wrought by civilization. There is a mark- 
 ed difference in customs and usages regarding the female 
 sex. On some groups they are treated as menials and 
 slaves, compelled to cultivate the gardens, get the fuel for 
 cooking and do all the drudgery. On other groups the 
 men treat them kindly and as equals. They are only re- 
 quired to attend to their household affairs and make the 
 native cloth. Those who treat their women with kindness 
 and respect are a better class of people, always,— less trea- 
 cherous, and easier to civilize and Christianize. The Fijians 
 or Mulgrave natives trpat their women like brutes, and 
 sometimes kill tliein because they do not make good war- 
 ricK's. Christianity has bettered their condition, but it has 
 cost the lives of some good men to instill a sense of right 
 and justice into their savage and preyerso natures. 
 
76 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 CHAPTER YIII. 
 
 MY TRIP TO THE NORTH. 
 
 Bidding adieu ta the Friendly islanders— Old Joe's lecture— Reflection, "The 
 Mariner's Grave— Arrive at Petropaulovski— Furs and salmon— A trip into 
 the country— A clam bake— The Kamtchatkan dog— Start for the Hawaiian 
 Islands— We encounter a gale— Arrive at Honolulu— My seaman's permit— 
 The Hawaiian group— Kamehameha III— Tars and Poe— The great volca- 
 noes— Capt. Cook's monument— Meet an old friend— The hoarding house 
 and the milk bottles— A day on horsehaek—The "Blonde" dance house- 
 Sailor characteristics- Pastimes at sea— The gonie. 
 
 When I had been on the ishinds nearly three years, a 
 ship came that wanted a man. She was bound for KaQit- 
 chatka and Behring's Sea. The owners had agents at Petro- 
 paulovski procuring seal skins and other furs. She oaine 
 around the cape of Good Hope, touching at the islands of 
 Jav^a and Borneo, in the East Indies. I shipped for the 
 trip, to terminate at the Sandwich Islands. I bade adieu 
 to my old father, Nafau, the chief who adopted me. They 
 did not want me to go. 
 
 I next informed old Joe of my intention to leave the 
 islands. He looked at me, and this is the lecture he gaye 
 me: "Ycu littlefool! Wli fit is the matter with you? What 
 ails you? You will never find another place like this on the 
 globe. I have sailed every sea on the face of the earth, and 
 you will never find a phice where you can live as easy as you 
 can here. I think you are getting crazy!" I said to him: 
 "You have seen the World, and are getting old. lam young, 
 have not, seen much of the world, and do not feol like spend- 
 ing my younger »lays here." 
 
 When we were out of the harbor and had secured our an- 
 chor on the bows and cleared the deck, T had time to reflect. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 77 
 
 and to think over my experience with the natives. I looked 
 back at the island, recalled my trials, my "ups and downs", 
 the Ccire the natives had for rae, and f9lt o;ratet'ul to them. 
 They had taken care of me without expecting to be reward- 
 ed fur their trouble, and I told them in grateful and kindly 
 remembrance. 
 
 I found the captain and crew a very pleasant lot of men. 
 The bark was a good sailer, and everything went on 
 smoothly. We ran past the Mulgrave Islands, near w^hich 
 the whaleship E^sex was sunk by a sperm whale, and some 
 of the crew were killed by the natives. We sailed in May, 
 and nothing of importance occurred during our passage to 
 the north. 
 
 After we arrived in the sea of Karatchatka, we spoke a 
 ship. Oae of her crew had recently^ died and they had 
 buried him on a lonely island, with a rough box for a coffin. 
 They thought it the right thing to do, as they were near 
 the island when he died, and the crew volunteered to take 
 him ashore. One of his shipmates had composed the fol- 
 lowing verses in memory of the event, and they gave us a 
 copy: 
 
 THE 3IARINER'S GRAVE. 
 
 J remember the night,— it was stormy and wet, 
 
 And dismal]^ dashed the dark wave, 
 As the rain and the sleet, cold and heavily beat 
 
 On the mariner's new made grave. 
 
 I remember: it was down in a lonesome dell. 
 
 And near to a gloomy cave: 
 Where the wild winds wail 'round the wanderer pale, 
 
 That we dug the mariner's grave. 
 
78 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 I remember how slow the bearers trod, — 
 
 And sad was the look they gave, — 
 As they rested their load near its last abode. 
 
 And gazed on the mariner's? grave. 
 
 I remember a tear as it slowly slid 
 
 Down the cheek of his messmates brave; 
 
 As it fell on the lid it soon was hid, 
 For closed was Tlie mariner's grave. 
 
 Now o'er his cold bier the brier is trod, — 
 
 The wild flowers mournfully wave, 
 And the willow weeps, while the moonbeam sleeps 
 
 On the mariner's silent grave. 
 
 It was in the month of August that we sailed along the 
 coast, and ic was very warm in the valleys; but the moun- 
 tains in plain view, were covered with ice and snow. The 
 sharp contrast, always striking, is marvelous to him who 
 sees the like for the tirst time. The seasons are of too short 
 duration to raise vegetables or crops of any kind success- 
 fully. We ran up the harbor about eight miles and dropped 
 anchor at Petropaulovski, a Russian penal colony. It has 
 a dock for the use of ships taking or discharging freight. 
 
 On a high piece of ground to the left of the landing were 
 about twenty dismounted brass cannons, which must have 
 lain there for 3^ears as they were nearly covered with soil. 
 When they were brought it was intended to build a fort,but 
 the work had been suspended because of lack of funds. The 
 first building to the right of the quay was a church with a 
 chime of bells. I think it would compare with Noah's ark 
 in architectural design. The other buildings and shops 
 were much after the same pattern, and most of them built 
 of logs. Onr ship's agent 7'esided here with his family, and 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 79 
 
 boiio;ht furs and salmon, for her New York owners. The 
 countiy aboan^ls in seal and other fur bearing animals. 
 It it- a great place for salmon, and immense quantities are 
 salted and dried for export. They feed their dogs salmon 
 and dried bear's meat. The winter dress is made of fur, and 
 one garment is so constructed as to encase the entire per- 
 son, including head and feet. A peculiar kind of dog which 
 never barks, is the most valuable domestic animal. All 
 the timber used for fuel and building purposes is hauled on 
 sleds, by these dogs, during the winter season. They are 
 al^o used to carry the mails over the mountains into Rus- 
 sian Siberia. They will travel all day without stopping to 
 feed, and make better time than the reindeer. The latter 
 must have dinner, and will break through the crust where 
 the dog will not. Carpenters, blacksmiths and other arti- 
 sans were located here. The woodworkers draw the plane 
 towards them instead of pushing it as we do. It looks awk- 
 ward, but their work looks well when finished. 
 
 We were given liberty one day, and took a trip into the 
 country. We saw a few small farms, but the products were 
 confined to turnips or potatoes and a few other vegetables, 
 and some oats and hay. lb is a wonderful country for wild 
 berries, and they grow in great variety and abundance. 
 
 At the time there was a French, a Prussian and a Russi- 
 an war vessel in the harbor, besides our bark. We had a 
 pleasant time with the boys, considering the number of 
 languages we were obliged to murder. We could all drink 
 wine, or atka, they called it, and it made us all talk about 
 the same tongue and feel happy for two days. 
 
 The days were very warm until about sunset, when we 
 would be attacked by a swarm of the largest and most 
 voracious mosquitoes I ever saw. The sailors called them 
 the Russian eagle. About midnight they would crawl into 
 the bushes. 
 
80 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 One day our agent and family, the Iliissian nobility, and 
 officers of the several sliips, with four boat's crews, armed 
 witli spades, shovels, pici^s, baskets and tubs, went out 
 about six miles into the bay, clamming. Provisions and 
 other necessaries had been provided for a good time. We 
 reached the clam grounds at ebb tide, and found a large 
 surface of sand bare of water. The sand was full of small 
 holes. We would thrust the spades down beside these holes, 
 the water would .«purt up bringing the clams to view, and 
 vTe gathered several baskets and tubs full. We carried them 
 ashore, dug holes in the sand, built fires, covered the clams 
 with hot sand and they were soon rt'didy to eat. When the 
 nobility had dined, the sailors finished the rest. In the 
 meantime the others wei-e having a good time b^^ them- 
 selves, and finall}^ began playing "one old cat," as the boys 
 call it, with spades, picks and shovels for bats, and baskets 
 and tubs for balls. To hear the confusion of tongues, one 
 w^ould think that Babel was about completed. There were 
 some bloody noses when the fun was over- At flood tide 
 we loaded the fragments into the boats and pulled for the 
 harbor, arriving about sunset. 
 
 Daring the summer months, they chain their dogs along 
 side a small stream of water, and feed them, except the 
 "leaders," which are allowed to run at large. They are a 
 short eared, bushy tailed dog, and when the bells begin to 
 chime they all set up a howl, and it is impossible to hear 
 anything else while it lasts. It is a. hard looking place to live. 
 
 We set sail one afternoon, and when we got inside it be- 
 gan to blow a gale. We were in a large bay, and had a 
 hard time beating off shore, but when we were clear of the 
 land we headed down the coast for the Hawaiian Islands. 
 One day as we were running near the coast we heard a noise 
 like cannonading, and lookiag in shore through the ship's 
 glass, we could see whale's flukes rising and falling, and 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 81 
 
 every stroke on the water sounded like the report of a 
 heavy cannon. They were sulphur bottom species sporting 
 in the bay. After the gale we had fine weather, made a 
 good run, and came to anchor in the harbor of Honolulu, 
 on the 15th day oi: October. 
 
 Here the voyage ended for me. In order to remain on 
 shore, a sailor must take the oath ol allegiance, or obtain 
 a "seaman's permit," at a cost of |2.00, good for sixty 
 days, and must be renewed when the time expires, or take 
 the oath of allegiance. I obtained a permit, of which the 
 following is a copy: 
 
 SEAMAN'S PERMIT. 
 
 \ ROYAL ) 
 1 STAMP I 
 
 ^ v^-.^^- Permission is given to Lawrence Fosdick on 
 
 board the Ar. B'k Acasta St., now lying in the harbor of 
 Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands, to remain on the island of 
 Oahu, for sixty days, he being discharged from the obliga- 
 tions of his shipping articles by his captain. 
 Port of Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 Oct. 30th, 1846. P. PENBALLOW, 
 
 per Arthur Pritchwood. 
 
82 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 The islands are in about 19-24 norfch ot" the equator. 
 Some of them are very nice islands Ten islands are com- 
 prised in the o^ronp. O.ihu is the capital island. It is not 
 the largest, but has a p issa-ble harbor, protected by a reef 
 breakwater, seaward. Honolulu is the capital. In 1846 
 Kamehameha III was king, but the islands were practically 
 governed by the English. The missionaries were Ameri- 
 cans, The soil is of volcanic origin a,nd produces most of 
 the fruits common to the tropics. 
 
 There are stretches of rich level lands along the coast, 
 bearing large cocoanut groves, sugar cane a,nd sea island 
 cotton. No Qse was made of the cotton and cane at that 
 time. The tarovoot was extensively cultivated, and formed 
 the staple article of the food of the natives, especially of the 
 poorer class. It grows in low, wet lands and resembles the 
 turnip. It is dried, pounded into flour and made into a sort 
 of porridge called poe. It is a very wholesome and nutri- 
 tious food. Knives and forks had not come into fashion in 
 Honr>lulu at this time, and the natives ate with their fin- 
 gers. It was said of the poe that the upper classes made it 
 thick and used one finger; the next cla^s lower made it 
 somewhat thinner and used two fingers, the poor made it 
 still thinner and used four fingers; the very poor made it 
 very thin and used the whole hand. Hence, there was one 
 finger, two finger, four linger and whole hand poe. Wheth- 
 er this was true or not I do not know. Those I saw eiting 
 used one or two fingers. 
 
 The natives were a kind and simple ra.ce, but they ha.ve 
 learned the evil h ibits of foreigners, such as drunkenness, 
 thieving and prostitution. It has been the lia-rdest ta,sk of 
 the missionaries to counteract the evil introduced by de- 
 praved foreigners, but they have done good work. 
 
 I remember seeing King Kamehameha on his way to 
 church one Sunday morning. He had on a plug hat, check. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 83 
 
 ered swallow tailed coat, white pants and vest, and sported 
 a cane, but was barefooted. He looked comical. 
 
 The group of islands contains about six thousand square 
 miles. The climate is fine but the natives are degenerating 
 and dying oufc. MaunaLoa, in Hawaii, is the largest active 
 volcano on the globe, and the extinct crater of Mauna Ha- 
 leakala, on Maui, is by far the largest known. I visited the 
 latter, and was down the coast as far as Diamond Rock and 
 the Weiititi plains. 
 
 King Kameha.meha was expert with the spear and war 
 club, and appeM,red to be fond of sport. He would allow 
 four men to throw spears at him at a. time, and he would 
 ward off the spears and catch tbem in his hand. He ap- 
 peared to be respected and well liked by his subjects. 
 
 The natives are good swimmers, and will stay in the 
 breakers an hour at a time with their surf boards. They 
 are a singular people. They kilk^l Captain Cook in Kala- 
 kua Bay. A cocoanut stump coated with pitch and tar, is 
 the monument that marks the spot where the tragedy oc- 
 curred. Whenever a ship stops here the sailors add a new 
 coat of pitch and tar to preserve it The natives deeply re- 
 gret the crime. 
 
 One day, as I was walking up the street in Honolulu, I 
 met a lady with a basket on her arm. I noticed that she 
 w IS looking at me rather sharp, and as she came up to me 
 she said: "I believe T know you, I thmk you are one of the 
 sailors who came from America, around the Cape of Good 
 Hope to the island of Tahiti," I was surprised, but recog- 
 nized her at once as Mary, .the former servant of Dr. Win- 
 slow. She was glad to see me, and I asked her what she 
 was doing in Honolulu. She told me she had been married 
 more than two years, to a good, kind husband, and had 
 two children. I congratulated her onher good fortune, and 
 said to her: "Yon are worthv of a good man, an«l if you 
 
84 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 can talk as well as jO)i could on the "spouter," yon can en- 
 tertain him." She replied: ''Yes?!, I used to have as much 
 lip as a right whale, as the men would say. I try to make 
 it pleasant for my husband. I should be glad to have you 
 call and see us." I thanked her for the invitation. I did 
 not see her again, but it seemed like meeting an old ship- 
 mate. 
 
 Tliere was bub oiie fii'sfc class hotel in Honolulu at that 
 time. The other stopping places were one story board 
 buildings, where seamen boarded. The sleeping apart- 
 ments were small board houses, with nothing for beds but 
 mats spread ov^er straw. The house where we boarded was 
 provided with a long table that would seat thirty persons. 
 Half a dozen mechanics boarded at the same place. I pre- 
 sume that milk pitchers were not in fashion, as the milk 
 was brought to the table in small black bottles, and these 
 were invariably placed at the head of the table where the 
 carpenters sat^ and by the time they found their way to old 
 Jack tar's end oli the table they were empty. One morning 
 we held a consultation; the partialicy shown to the carpen- 
 ters was unanimously condemned, we fixed upon a plan 
 that we thought would insure a fair distribution of milk in 
 the future, and proceeded to carry it out. We went in to 
 breakfast, and as soon as we were seated the old salt at the 
 foot of the table sang out: "Scull Black Betty dowixfhis 
 way!" The moment the order was given the bottles went 
 sailing the whole length ol" the table, followed by potatoes, 
 etc. The landlord, trying to queli the riot, said we should 
 have fair play and made us all sorts of good promises. 
 
 After breakfast we concluded to bake a cruise down the 
 coast. Fifteen of us went to the stables and hired horses 
 to ride, as there were few vehicles at that time. The price 
 was two dollars each, in advance, for the use of horse, sad- 
 dle, bridle and whip. These horses never trot but go at a 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 85 
 
 gallop if urged off a walk. VVlim W3 were out of town, we 
 stopped {«nd chose a, captain and other officers to command 
 the fleet, then set sail down the coast. It was a fine flat 
 country for miles b;ick from the coast, largely occupied by 
 groves ol'cocoanut, orange and lemon, and patches of taro 
 and pineapple. Native dwellings were scattered through the 
 groves. We stopped occasionallj^ and talked with a Kana- 
 ka who could speak a few words of English After cruising 
 a few hours the order was given to about ship and steer for 
 honne. We had ridden a short distance on our return, when 
 one of our crew sang out: ''Sail, ho!" 
 
 '*Where away?" replied the captain. 
 
 "Dead ahead." 
 
 "What does she look like?" 
 
 ' She is a piratical looking craft." 
 
 "Which way is she headed?" 
 
 "Towards Honolulu." 
 
 "We will give her chase." 
 
 We increased our speed, and when we were within twenty 
 rods of her discovered that it was a native girl who had 
 come out of a cross road. Our captain sang out: "Shake 
 the reefs out of the topsails and sheet home the top gallant 
 sails!" The captain of the craft ahead turned, looked back, 
 put her band to her face and waved us a challenge to come 
 on, but she left us like the wind. She had a good sailing 
 craft and was soon out of sight. As we rode into town it 
 rained hard for about fifteen minutes, and made the roads 
 very slippery. A Prussian sailor stopped his horse and 
 said: "My craft gave a lee lurch and carried away one of 
 my main shrouds. We will have to heave to, slack up the 
 lanyards and put a shroud knot in the rigging." I soon 
 fixed his stirrup strap. 
 
 We turned and rode up a valley into the mountains, and 
 from an elevated point of vantage enjoyed a grand and 
 
86 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 nomprehensive view of the country, the town and the har- 
 l~)or' and shippino;. We spent f-several hours very pleasantly, 
 then about ship and started homeward bound, arriving in 
 Honolulu about dark. 
 
 There was a large building in Honolulu ?iamed after the 
 English frigate Blonde, fitted out with card tables, a bar at 
 one end, and a small orchestra that furnished music night 
 and day for sailors to dance. But you would find more young 
 men of the town in the place at any time than sailors. Of 
 course, some sailors resort to such places. Long voyages 
 are monotonous, and they arebound to find so me recreation 
 wdien ashore. Sosne people think that all sailors inva riably 
 resort to the grog shop as soon as they get into port, but 
 that is a mistnken and unjust conclusion. More than half of 
 them aresti-ictly temperate, never enter such places, deposit 
 their money in savings banks, and many have several thou- 
 sand dollars laid by. Others invariably spend their last dime.. 
 I remember one ohl tar who found nine cents in his pocket 
 after we got out to sea. He held it in his hand, looked at 
 it and said: "Dang my tarry top lights and top gallant 
 eyebrows; why did I not spend that? I may chaw sand be- 
 fore I have another chance, I have no wife or children and 
 it will be lost!" 
 
 A great many things are laid to sailors of which they are 
 not guilty. They are fond of dancing the French four and 
 telling stories, "spinning yarns," they call it. Some think 
 the sailor has an easy time at sen, but that is a mistake. 
 The ship is his home; he must keep eyerything in order; 
 watch the elements, make or shorten sail and trim them to 
 the winds. Beyond the ship nothing meets the eye but. the 
 mighty expanse of water. They are frank and free hearted, 
 and their hands are ever open to assist others in distress. 
 They are accustomed to hardships and danger, but th=^ af- 
 flicted never appeal to them in vain for sympathy or sue • 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 87 
 
 o.ov. In these humane qualities, they compare favorably, 
 as a class, with tho^e who dwell on the land surrounded by 
 all the comforts of life. 
 
 Catching the porpoise and sharks are popular pastimes. 
 A large white bird, called the gonie, affords considerable 
 amusement. It measures ten feet from tip to tip of wing, 
 -and has a habit of hovering about a ship when hove to dur- 
 ing a gale. The sailors attach alarge lish hook to a strong 
 line, tie on a piece of wood to keep it afloat, bait the hook 
 with a piece of meat and heave it out into the water. The 
 bird swoops down and swallows the bait, hook and all. The 
 men haul on the line and the bird, with outstretched neck, 
 uses his large webbed feet and treads back with all his 
 might. They pull him on deck, where he will stagger about 
 like a drunken man, and fight with his captors, but cannot 
 fly off of the deck. They skin the claws, tan them in alum 
 water and make purses of them that will take in coins as 
 large as a half dollar, easily. The wing bones are hollow 
 and they make needle cases of them to sell in port. Of the 
 fine white down of the bod^^ they make pillows and bed 
 spreads that are very nice and soft. 
 
88 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE 
 
 HOMEWARD BOLTED 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 The ship "Globe" and Capt. 3enj. Price— Island of Juan Fernandez— The quin- 
 ces and the jackass— Valparaiso and the Spanish Main— "Old Ironsides" — 
 Tom Coleman and his parrot— "Doubling the Horn"— "Magellan Clouds"— 
 Incidents of a gale— Storms at sea— "1 he White Squall"— Our stay at Rio 
 de Janeiro— Arrive at Boston. 
 
 It was some time during the month of December that I 
 
 shipped on board the ship Globe, of Boston, Capt. Benj. 
 
 Price, master. She was homeward bound by way of the 
 
 Spanish Main, and Cape Horn. She laid at Honolulu two 
 
 or three weeks, and it was about the first of January, 1847, 
 
 that we took our departure. We stopped at the island of 
 
 Juan Fernandez, off the coast of Chili, to procure a supply 
 
 of fresh water, as it is of better quality than can be found 
 
^rV VOYAf;E AT^OUXl) THE nLOBE. R9 
 
 on the inn iiiln 11(1. As we ran nlon"' tlie vshore we could see 
 lai'O'e herds of <>,'oats of all colors feeding on the table lands. 
 We hove the ship to, there being no harbor, rafted the casks 
 and towed them ashore. A spout had been laid from a 
 large spring to the sea, and bj'- this means the casks were 
 readilj^ filled, then towed back to th(> ^liip and hoisted on 
 board. Quinces were pientifnl in the I'a vines a 'id six of us, 
 went ashore one day with paiks to gather a (jn.intitv. The 
 thickets were so dense that we c6uid not see twenty feet in 
 any direction. After a little I became separated from the 
 others. I was busy picking and thinking how nice the quin- 
 ces would be made into preserves with m(>lasf^es, when all 
 at once I heard an unea,rthly sound. I tin-a^d and ran down 
 the ravine thinking all the animals in Africa were after me. 
 I did not stop to choose my patli, but tore through the 
 bushes, lost my hat and all of my quinces, and came out 
 with a scratched face. Two of the mnii s.i w me running and 
 wanted to know were I was going. I replied: '''J'o the ship. 
 — Did you hear that noise?" ''Yes; it w^as a jackass bray- 
 ing." I said: "It was worse than the rumbling sound of 
 an earthquake, or the bellowing of a whale." They told me 
 to go back and get my hat. I said: "I would not go back 
 for a cargo of hats. If j^ou want to stay and pick quinces 
 you can. lam going to leave tliis desolate place. Tiie 
 quinces are sour." I went down towards the boat, ready 
 to go aboard of the ship. I thought of what Selkirk said: 
 
 "I cannot hear the sweet music of speech, — 
 
 I start at the sound of my own." 
 That must have been befoi-e the importation of jackasses. 
 T told one of the officers that the beast had good lungs but 
 the tone of his voice was not very melodious, and rather 
 harsh. I have heard the same kind of animal since but 
 none to equal that one. It was some time before I heard 
 the last of quince picking. 
 
90 MY VOYAGE AEOUXD THE GLOBE. 
 
 From Juan Ferna-ndez, we sail(?(l to thft vSp-uii-ih main, 
 and stopped at Valparaiso. It wasonf^ of the tougiiest pla- 
 ces I ever was in. Seventy-tive sailors, called beachcomb- 
 ers, were living there. They were rou^h fellows, and some 
 of them kept puJparees, or n.s tlie E!i;Li;lishinan spells it, 
 "hess hay-hell-tvvo hoes and a hen;" hell is the next thing to 
 a pulparee. 
 
 The old frigate Constitution ("Old Ironsides") was on 
 station there, and one of the crew, an old Irish sailor, by 
 the name of Tom Coleman, owned a parrot that could talk. 
 He came on board one ni^'ht full of Spanish whiskey; the 
 bird noticed it and sang out: "Tom Coleman, drunk!" 
 Tom says: "What did you say?" The bird repeated: "Tom 
 Coleman, drunk!" Tom picked up a piece of wood, struck 
 the parrot and killed him. He did not intend to, and felt 
 very bad when he realized what he had done in an angry 
 moment. He sewed the bird up in a piece of canvass, bui'ied 
 him and mourned the loss of his pet. 
 
 It was in the month of June tliat we sailed out of the 
 harbor and headed for Cape Horn. It was autumn in that 
 latitude, and we had fine weather until we reached the lati- 
 tude of southern Patagonia and Terra del Fuego. The 
 weather grew gradually colder day by day. Strong west 
 to southwest winds, accompanied by storms of snow and 
 hail, gave us a heavy sea. We had the wind abaft the beam 
 and the waves would break over the deck forward and 
 amidship. Half hour tricks at the wheel were as long as a- 
 man conld stand it without freezing. With close reefed 
 main topsail and staysail, we held our course. The men 
 stretched a rope from the mizzen mast to the main rigging, 
 to hold to as they ran to and fro to keep from freezing. It 
 was so rdoudy for several days that we could not take an 
 observation from the sun, and we ran farther south than 
 necessary to clear the cape. When we got our bearings we 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 91 
 
 found that we were in fi[ty-ei<i:hfc, south latifrnde. Wo yvoi-p 
 a. happy Jot of men when we squared the yards and hea(kM] 
 the ship to the north. As she ploughed through the seas, 
 the old tars wouhl say: "The girls in Bf.ston have hold of 
 the towline and are hauling us towards home." We passed 
 in sight of the P^a.lklaiid Islands, and lietw^en them and the 
 mainland. When we could see the nortli star we felt that 
 we were nearly home. By this brief sketeii <>f our experience 
 while "doubling the Horn," you can see that a sailor's life 
 is not all sunshine. Cape Horn is a tei-ror to seamen, — thej'' 
 must be constantly on the lookout for icebergs, the cut- 
 water and bobstays; each a mass of ice threatening destruc- 
 tion. It is not as pleasant as n good home on shore. At 
 any time when the weather is (dear, aligh^a^Jll a dark cloud, 
 called the "Magellan Clouds," are to be seen hanging over 
 the Straits of Magellan. I am unable to explain the cause 
 of this singular phenomenon. I recollnct that the officers 
 had a theory in regard to it, but have forgotten what they 
 said. Rows of penquins are seen sitting on the rocks, look- 
 ing like soldiers arrayed for battle. If disturbed they dive 
 under water. 
 
 When we were in the latitude of the La Platte River we 
 spoke a Dutch galleyot, outward bound from Buenas Ayres, 
 with a cargo of hides and tallow. They told us that 
 the United States and Mexico were at war, and that we 
 would have to look out for privateers. But when we arriv- 
 ed at Rio de Janeiro, we found it was a, mistake, as Mexico 
 had neither navy nor privateers. 
 
 After coming around Cape Horn we had strong winds; 
 and as our ship was a good sailer by the wind, she was 
 "wet" forward. Some vessels sail better with a free wind, 
 owing to the peculiar model of the craft and the wny the 
 sails are set. The fast sailing yessel is more liable to be 
 what the sailor calls "a wet ship," because she throw^s the 
 
92 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 sea and the wind blows the spra.y across the deck. Yon wil 1 
 hear a sailor ask these questions when shipping on a strange 
 vessel: ''Is she wet?" "Is i^ a good sea boat?" "Does she 
 steer wild?" 4 fore and after or sehooner will lie about 
 four or live points off the ^^ind and make fair headway; a 
 square rigged ship about seven points. 
 
 I remember one night, it was after we were getting into 
 better weather this side of the cape, — the wind was blowing 
 fresh at eight o'clock in the evening when the starboard 
 watch went below, leaving the first mate's watch, to which 
 I belonged, until twelve, midnight. The wind increased, 
 but the mate was a great man to carry sail, and would nev- 
 er give the order to shorten sail until he was obliged to for 
 fear the masts might be carried away. We would hojje to 
 hear the order before the wind blew a gale, but as time 
 passed and the wind increased we would rather he would 
 "rag it to her" until the other watch was called, He would 
 walk the quarter deck, casting his eyes aloft watching the 
 sails, the men expecting every moment to hear the order: 
 "Clew up topgallant sails!" But he would make his turn 
 and back to the man at the wheel, while the old ship 
 ploughed through the wayes at a great rate, the water 
 foaming under her bows and throwing the spray onto the 
 forecastle deck. The sea was making the hissing sound, so 
 familiar to sailors, like throwing a brand of fire into water. 
 It seemed as though the ship wanted to fly, and we were 
 anxious to hear eight bells. We knew that Dexter, the 
 second mate, was an old "granny," as sailors call a timid 
 or weak-kneed man, and would have his watch shorten sail 
 as soon as he came on deck. The old ship was knocking 
 the billows right and left, when the man at the wheel struck 
 eight be^ls, and was quickly ansvyered by the bell forward 
 on the Samson's-post and the welcome sound for us: "Star- 
 board watch, ahoy! Tumble up here, you sleepers, and l?t 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 93 
 
 the wind blow jour eyes open!" Then some old salt growl- 
 ed out: "Why don't you shorten sail?" They knew by the 
 noise and thumping of the sea and the laboring of the ship 
 that we were "ragging it to her," as the sailor nails carry- 
 ing sail heav^^ They knew how the first mate would carry 
 sail, and said he did it to fayor liis watch. The other 
 watch came on deck. We went below, stowed ourselves in- 
 to our berths, laughing to ourselves because we anticipated 
 that they would be ordered aloft immediately to shorten 
 sail; and it was not long before we heard the order given: 
 "Take in top gallant sails and haul down flying jib! Stow 
 the sails snug so they will not blow out from under the gas- 
 kets." Then we could notice a difference in the motion of 
 the vessel She did not plunge or labor so h.ii'd. When we 
 came on deck at four o'clock in the morning, the wind had 
 abated and we soon had all sail on her agiiin and were 
 speeding away for Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. 
 
 There are several kinds of storms with which ships have 
 to contend. The regular gale is not so bad as the mon- 
 soon, that terrible periodical wind of the Indian Ocean; the 
 typhoon of the Chinese seas; or the white squall common to 
 tropical latitudes. The regular gale comes on gradually 
 and the mariner is notified of its approach in time to 
 shorten sail and make everything secure. The waves rise 
 higher than in the fierce squall, but follow one after an- 
 other in regular succession, less dangerous than the con- 
 tending currents of wind and swirling waves of sudden 
 storms. But one must experience a storm at sea to fully 
 comprehend the terrible aspects and dangers of the situa- 
 tion. The ship is battling for life against the wind and 
 waves; the sea is awful in its wrath, and it seems every mo- 
 ment that the sailor's home must surely be engulfed in a 
 watery grave. 
 
 The storm sails are close-reefed topsail and fore topmast 
 
94 MY VOYxiGE AEOUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 staysail, whether the ship be hove to, or scadding before 
 the wind. So.n.^ ships cannot run before the wind because 
 the masts would roll out of them. It is owing to the mo- 
 del, or because the bearings are not sufficient to prevent 
 rolling-, but they work all right when hove to. 
 
 The typhoon, Chinese Tae-iun, is a very dangerous 
 storm. Its sudden appearance and strong rotary motion 
 often dismast a ship before there is time to prepare to meet 
 it. Fortunately, these storms are of short duration, and 
 as the wind blows the sea down the waves are not heavy. 
 
 The white squall gives the shortest warning. It comes 
 wdth terrible velocity, under a cloudless sky, but woe to the 
 ship that lies in its path. We encountered one off the Bra- 
 zil Banks. We were sailing along with a light breeze on our 
 starboard quarter. A few light, fleecy clouds were in sight, 
 but nothing that indicated a storm. It was about four 
 o'clock in the afternoon and I was serving my trick at the 
 wheel. The captain, walking the quarter deck, chanced to 
 cast his eyes to windward and saw that the sea was white. He 
 sang out: "Clew up and shorten sail as quick as possible!" 
 To me he said: "Keep her off before the wind." But before 
 we had time to make anj^ preparation, the mizzen topsail 
 was gone and the topgallant sails and royals blew out of 
 the bott ropes, and all was confusion in less time than it 
 takes to tell the story. In twenty minutes it was dead calm, 
 but we had work the rest of the day to clear the wreck. It 
 seemed as though it would take the masts out of the ship. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 95 
 
 THE WHITE SQUALL. 
 The sea was bright,— the bark rode well,— 
 
 The breeze bore the tone of the vesper bell. 
 'Twas a gallant bark, with a crew as brave 
 
 As ever launched on the heaving wave. 
 She shone in the li^ht of declining day — 
 
 Each sail was set, and each heart was gay. 
 
 She neared the land where beauty smiles,— 
 The sunny shores of the Grecian Isles.— 
 
 All thought of home, and that welcome dear 
 
 Which soon should greet each wanderer's ear. 
 
 In fancy they joined in the social throng,— 
 In the festive dance— in the joyous song. 
 
 A white cloud flies through the azure sky! 
 
 What means that wild, despairing cry?— 
 Farewell, vision scenes of home! — 
 
 That cry is, "Help! help! help!" Where no help can 
 come. — 
 The white squall rides on the surging wave, 
 
 And the bark is engulfed in an ocean grave! 
 
96 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 We ran along the coast of Brazil to Rio de J.inBiro. The 
 light house is situated on tiie port side as you eater the 
 ba^', and is provided with a revolving double light— red und 
 white The city is about eight miles up the bay. There are 
 two ports,— one near the entrance and one at quarantine. 
 It is a ianddoeked harbor roomy enough, to hold all the 
 navies on the globe. 
 
 Our captain wanted to get near th(» docks before we 
 came to anchor, so we would not have to move again. He 
 directed us to lay the cable along the decl<, and when they 
 hailed us from the fort to Hit it with our hooks and let it 
 clank dovva on deck, to make them believe we were hauling 
 the cable. We were nearly opposite the fort when the order 
 came: "Let go your 'ankra'!" That is the way the Port- 
 ugese pronounced it. "Shake up the chains!" said the cap- 
 tain. We were sailing right along, and the order, "Let go 
 your 'ankra,'" was soon repeated, and emphasized a little 
 later by the discharge of a blank cartridge. "Let go the 
 anchor!" said the captain. Thao salute cost the ship two 
 dollars. 
 
 The inhabitants are of Portugese descent, and w^ere not a 
 very interesting people at that time. We stayed there 
 about four weeks,— painted the ship, received three thousand 
 sacks of coffee and one hundred and seventy crates of 
 oranges, and replenislied our supply oi water. The streets 
 of the city a,re narrow, excepting the thoroughfares leading 
 in from the country over which the coffee and other produce 
 is hauled in. They were about a hundred years behind 
 other nations in the way of improvements. The coffee was 
 brought in sacks on carts so constructed that the axle 
 turned with the wheels, and drawn by oxen, — a very primi- 
 tive vehicle that made a fearful noise when in motion. The 
 houses were low with tiled roofs, and devoid of beauty in 
 architectural design. Negro slaves did all the heavy labor. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 97 
 
 One of the finest fountnins on the globe is situated in the 
 palace square near the bay. The structure is square and is 
 built of white marble, and the water is brought from the 
 mountains. The water falls from four spouts, one on each 
 side into a marble trough from whence the overflow runs 
 into the bay. 
 
 We had liberty days ashore. Our old cook had some 
 deal with a grocer, owing him about three dollars and 
 agreed to send him a keg of slush or grease that comes off 
 the meat. He did not send it according to contract. The 
 Portugese said it was a Yankee trick a ad that the cook 
 could not soft soap him again. We told the cook, and he 
 filled a keg with salt water soft soap and sent it to him. 
 The grocer was mad and said he would fix the cook if he 
 caught him on shore again. But he did not catch him. 
 
 Sunday is the day of sport with the people. They in- 
 dulge in cock fighting, displays of fireworks, etc., and show 
 little respect for the Sabbath 
 
 A.t last our cargo was all stowed away aad we were 
 ready for sea. It was about the first of July that we sailed 
 out of the harbor with a fair wind, homeward bound. The 
 ship was soon breasting the waves of the broad Atlantic, 
 and ready to battle with the storms once more. Rio de 
 Janeiro is in about 24° south latitude, and we would soon 
 be in the soutiieast trade winds that would waft us on until 
 we reached the equatorial region of variable winds and fre- 
 quent calms. A belt about fourteen degrees in width, seven 
 on either side of the equator, called '"horse" latitude by 
 sailors, is peculiar in this respect. A dead calm may con- 
 tinue for a week or more, or light winds from every point of 
 the compass may be experienced within an hour. 
 
 Formerly, it was the general practice on shipboard to 
 serve each man a ration of grog regularly every day; and 
 usuallv, an additional allowance after extra work, such as 
 
98 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE, 
 
 reefing topsails, etc. Tliis practice lias been discontinued. 
 The change is a wise reform and a blessing to sailors. I was 
 returning from the theater one night in New York. It was 
 after midnight. I heard some one speaking in a basement, 
 and out of curiosity, I went down the steps and entered the 
 room, where I found an old white-haired sea. captain deliv- 
 ering a tempeT'ance lecture in true sailor style, to an audi- 
 ence of fifteen or twenty old sailors. They listened atten- 
 tively while he pictured the evils that result from the habit 
 of drinking intoxicating liquors. After the lecture, every 
 one of them made his mark after his name affixed to the 
 pledge, and stated thnt heretofore they had never had a 
 shot left in the locker after a bout in the grog shop, but 
 that henceforth they wonld stow it away in a savings bank, 
 and have something to help themselves with when thej^ 
 finally came to anchor on shore. 
 
 After crossing the equator we had a fine run as far as 
 the Bermudas when we encountered some heavy rain squalls 
 accompanfed by thunder and lightning, that gave us some 
 trouble. We were now engaged in taking off the chafing 
 gears and otherwise putting the ship in fine shape for enter- 
 ing the harbor. We had some foggy days along our coast, 
 when we would frequently hear the fog horns and meet 
 small crafts. We hailed one, went on board of her and 
 bought some water-melons and vegeta,bles. 
 
 At the entrance to the bay we took a pilot and were 
 soon at anchor in Boston harbor. It was the 19th day of 
 August, 1847. As soon as we were alongside the dock, the 
 boarding house sharks were after the sailors with their 
 smiles and blarney, asking: "What house will you stop at? 
 We have everything nice at the sailor's home. Have your 
 morning tips before meals, good beds, and we will take 
 your chests ashore." They take great interest in the 
 
MY VOYACrE AROUND THE GLOBE. 99 
 
 pallor's welfare, planning to bleed him of his last cent before 
 he goes to sea again. 
 
 You ^\ill see the sailor rolling along the sidewalk with his 
 hands open as if to grasp a rope. He is ever ready to «hare 
 his last dollar with his shipmates, and he Jiever passes a 
 beggar without giving him a dime, at least. They had a 
 friend in Father Taylor, who was devoted to their interests 
 and welfare. He warned them to shun places of vi<'e, point- 
 ed the way to the Sailor's Bethel, and invited them to come. 
 There was not a place on the globe where he was unknown 
 to sailors, and universally regarded as their best friend; and 
 they brought him the relics and curiosities they gathered 
 during their voyages. 
 
 When we look at the hardships, sufferings and perils of 
 the sailor's life, with its few enjoyments, let us remember 
 with gratitude the service he renders to society. Consider 
 that, through his courage and energy, we enjoy the many 
 advantages of commerce, and the blessings of civilization 
 and Christianity have been spread abroad. Therefore, let 
 us hope that when he has made his last voyage and is bro- 
 ken down by age and toil, he may find a sunny harbor secure 
 from storms and trouble, where he may happily and tran- 
 quillj' await the inevitable summons aloft. 
 
1 00 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE mariner's LIFE.— ADVICE TO THE BOYS. 
 
 Perhaps some of jou young: men have an inclination to 
 become mariners. As I experienced something of the inside 
 working of a sailor's life while sailing round our globe, I 
 can give you a little advice: Never leave a good home to 
 go to sea. There are plenty of rough boys in the large sea- 
 ports, lounging about the docks and wharves who make 
 good seamen. They are acquainted with sailors and ship- 
 ping, and are better fitted for that kind of business. A 
 voyage at sea is a good schooling for bad boys. I once 
 heard of a boy by the name of James Packard who was in- 
 dicted for petty larceny. He was allowed to choose be- 
 tween going to prison or on board of a whale-ship. He 
 chose the latter. His father told me some years later that 
 James made a wise choice, as he became master of a ship, 
 and a useful man. On the other hand if he had been sent to 
 prison he might have become discouraged, thinking that 
 everybody looked down on him, and ended by committing 
 other crimes. 
 
 It is not every man that will make a good sailor. He 
 must be alert and active, — able to think and act at the 
 same time. He must have his mind on his work, especially 
 when aloft, for sometimes there is great danger and occa- 
 sions that require quick work. 
 
 I knew two voung men of Shawano, who wished to be- 
 come sailors. I will not mention names. They went as far 
 as Chicago and shipped on board of a sailing vessel. One 
 day they undertook to go up aloft. One succeeded in climb- 
 ing up about twenty-five feet, and the other about fifteen. 
 
:\[Y VOYAGE AROUXD THE GLOBE. 101 
 
 At this point the one in advance chanced to look down; he 
 became giddj-headed and said to the oth^r: _"I don't be- 
 lieve T will ever make a sailor. Let's go home to Shawano!" 
 The other replied: "Have you got a good hold?" "Yes." 
 And looking down at his shipmate, he found that he was 
 hugging the rigging so close that he could hardly see him, 
 and was gripping the shi-ouds so hard that the tar was ooz- 
 ing out between his fingers. He said: "I am going home 
 as soon as I can get loose." Number one replied: "Oh! you 
 will make a. good sailor. A cyclone covild not blow you off 
 the rigging." "Oh, come on, let 's go home!" They finally 
 managed to- get loose and descend to the deck. They count- 
 ed their ready money and found that they lacked about 
 three dollars oi:' having money enough to pay their fare to 
 Green Bay. Tliey succeeded in getting work at unloading 
 lumbei- and posts from a vessel, and inadn up the deficiency-. 
 At Green Bay, they took another invoice of their bank stock 
 and found they had a balance of twenty cents in their favor. 
 They c^ncbideMl to "spji.-e the main brace" and take the 
 tow path to Shawano. 
 
 When they arrived at Bonduel, they were tired and hun- 
 gry and stopped at the house of a hospitable old farmer by 
 the name of Stern, and asked for bread and milk. After 
 eating heartily, one of them thrust his hand deep into his 
 pocket as if to pull out a full purse, when, in fact, it did not 
 contain one penny. The old man said it was all right, that 
 he did not charge them anything. That relieved them, and 
 they trudged on towards home. But they concluded to 
 come into the city by the- pale light of the moon, for fear 
 their shipmates at home would ask them what kind of a 
 voyage they had made. They sneaked in hy way of the 
 alleys, stowed themselves away in their berths to dream of 
 the experience they had had of a sailor's life. Their minds 
 
102 MY VOYAGE AEOUXD THE TiEOBE. 
 
 wandered back to the rolling deep, and between .<=^nores one 
 burst forth: 
 
 "I am a little sailor boy. 
 
 And would you i^now my wtoi-y? 
 I've been across the ocean bbi(\ 
 
 And seen it in its J2:lory. 
 I've seen it on n snuimer's day. 
 
 As gentle as a child; 
 I've seen it in a, tempest. 
 
 Like a giant hpi'ce and wild " 
 
 '"'("h, stop that noise n.nd go to slee;)! You at-e no sail- 
 or; you don't know a windlass froin an aiidjor." 
 
 Shortly he dreamed again: 
 
 "I've been in the ship 
 
 When the waters were asleep, 
 
 She seemed like a rock 
 Ui-v steady place to kn^j^. 
 
 I've been in the ship, 
 When driven by a gale 
 
 She plowed the foaming billows 
 With her sad, riven sail." 
 
 "Now, if yon don't stop that howling I will never go to 
 sea with you again. Do you think we are on the raging- 
 sea? We are in granny's bedi'oom. Now keep still. Yon 
 will hear Mike Devlin call the morning watch pretty soon." 
 
 If you try it, you will- find that the seamans life is 
 fraught with hardship and danger. You will need lots of 
 courage to make good sailors. Take my advice and stay 
 on shore. 
 
 I will endeavor tr> give you some idea of the inside work- 
 ings of a sailors life. An American protection is a dofni- 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUXI) THE GLOBE. . 10-^ 
 
 ment issued pursuant to the provisions of an act of Con- 
 gress, pnssed for the relief and protection of Anierican sea- 
 men. It bears the American eagle at the top, states 3'Our 
 residence, name, a.ge, weight, height, color of hair and eves, 
 complexion, etc. No sailor should neglect to obtain one 
 before going to sea. It is invalual)le in case sickness, acci- 
 dent, or anv difficulty befalls jou m a foreign land. Our 
 government has a represent:] tive, called a consul, in every 
 large se.-iport on the globe, and it is a part of his duty to 
 relieve American seamen in distress, and settle differences 
 between the men and officers of shipping. If a sailor has 
 cause against an officer, he can make complaint to the con- 
 sul and obtain redress. If sick, he will send yo-i to the 
 hospital, nnd wIkmi you have recovered he will assist you 
 in getting ;i iiorluT vessel. Every sailor is supposed to pny 
 tv>'(^aty centiS per month out of his wages for the support of 
 mnrinc liospitfiis. 
 
 When you go on board of a ship that is r^nldy for sea, 
 you are chosen by an officer and beeom;^ a member of his 
 watch. The first mate heads the larboard watch, and the 
 second mate the starboard, or Captain's watch. They are 
 termed the starboard and larboard watches. Each watch 
 has eight hours on deck, alternately, excepting the dog 
 watches, as they are called, from four o'clock to six, and 
 from six to eight p. m. This arrangement changes the time 
 so that the same vv^^tch will not have to serve the sa-me 
 hours every night. In the watches, each man serves a two 
 hour trick at the wheel and two hours as lookout, succes- 
 sively, in rotation. 
 
 The regular routine of a sailor's life at sea is to trim, or 
 shorten sail, as required, and keepeverythinginorderabout 
 the ship. The dtjck is scrubbed every morning with a broom 
 designed for that purpose. They have a stone with ropes 
 attached, called a, holv stone. Two men draw it back and 
 
104 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 forth. This process is called liolv stoning fche deck. A 
 smaller stone, called a pra.yer book by sailers, is used 
 where the large one cannot touch. As there is no soil, or 
 dirt, everything is tidy and clean. Swabs ot ropej^arns are 
 used to dry up the deck. They usually have plenty to do, 
 wr>rking ship, making spun-yarn or marline, using the 
 serving board, or mallet, and mending sails. 
 
 There are what is termed running rigging, and standing 
 rigging. The shrouds, baci<stays, fore, main and mizzen 
 mainstays, and the bobstays running from the cutwater to 
 the bowsprit, constitute the standing rigging. The running 
 I'igging are the roj es used in making, reefing and taking in 
 sail. The sailor has sometliing to learn in this department, 
 as only a few are called '"ropes." Excepting the footrop\s, 
 bucket and main ropes, they are called clewlines, buntline-j, 
 halyards, reef tackles, etc.. etc. You are not a competent 
 sailor until you know wliere all these ropes rnn, the blocks 
 they pass through, the pni'pose anri function of each, and 
 the place where each comes throngh the fair leader and is 
 belayed on deck. If you are called in a hurry some dark 
 night to shorten sail, yon must know what rigging to use. 
 as there are no lights, except the binnacle liglit over the 
 compass to see to steer by. And when you go aloft yon 
 need to know which is safe, as most of the rigging is not 
 safe to hold onto when the ship \h rolling and the wind 
 blowing a^ gale. It requires plenty of nerve, quick work and 
 strict obedience to ordei's in every instance, as everything 
 depends on the activity and capability of the seamen. It is 
 a good place for boys who disobev their parents, for when 
 an order is given , you cannot s^"op to ask questions, but 
 must start instantly; not do like a l)oy I once heard of who 
 did not know his duty. He was. ordered aloft one dark 
 night He said: "('aprain, as for me going up this rope 
 1-adder this dark night without a lantern, I sha'n't do it I" 
 
AfY YOYAriE AROrXD TiTE GLOBE. 105 
 
 Tlio oflif-er oi' tlio watcli grabbed a. rope and went for bini, 
 saying: "Get up tbo rigging, j'ou kind lubber, or I'll cut 
 you in two!" So you see you cannot stop to parley with 
 them. 
 
 The bill of fare oousisis of duff, or what we would call a. 
 puddiug. It is boiled in bags, and is usually served twice a 
 week with salt porlv, beef tea and coffee. One day they will 
 have boiled rice for dinner, another day beans, a,nd Friday 
 is what is called "banyan day", when nothing but meat, 
 crackers or sea-biscuit, tea. and coffee is served. The cf»ok 
 hands it down into the forecastle in a measure something 
 like a peck measure, (tailed a 'kid." Every sailor has a two- 
 quart pan for his soup, a quart cup for his coffee, and a 
 sheath knife to eat with Sometimes the beef looks hard and 
 tough, and some old salt will look down into tlie kid, sor- 
 rowfully, and rei)eat the old saw: 
 
 "Old boss, old boss, how came you here? 
 Thou hast carted stone for many a year, 
 'Till killed by blows and sore abuse; 
 Then salted down for sailor's use. 
 The sailors, the3^ do me despise; 
 T'tiey turn me o'er and damn my e^^es; 
 They pick the mea.t from off my bones 
 And toss the rest to Davy Jones." 
 
 The naval laws compel captains to procure fresh provi- 
 sions wlienever practicable; and allow men twenty-four 
 hours liberty wlienever the ship enters a port, or once In six 
 months. The regulations on sliip-board are as steady a.s a 
 watch in k.epingtime. Everyman knows his duty and 
 must obey orders strictly, at all times. Disobedience is 
 mutiny, punishable with death. 
 
 The man at the wheel strikes a small bell every half hour, 
 that is answered by a larger one forwai'd on the sampson 
 
106 MY YOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 post. Four bells relieves the man at the wheel; eight bells 
 ends a watch. Oae o!)ject in striiiing the bell at night is to 
 know that the lookout is not asleep. The man at the wheel 
 cannot go to sleep, because he must keep his eyes on the 
 compass. Thej have two compasses, one for light and one 
 for heavy weather. The latter will not traverse quick 
 enough when the wind is lighi; and when the sea is heavy 
 the light-weather needle will bob around so fast that it is 
 impossible to steer by it. 
 
 I studied bub one geography— Peter Parley's. From it 
 I learned but one thing that I can remember. In describing 
 the sea, the author says: "In a calm the sea is smooth, like 
 the face of a mirror; but, ]oh ! how dreadful in a storm !" I 
 remembered that, and realized the truth of it whenever I 
 saw old ocean in her wrath. Perhaps all sail is set when 
 you turn in at eight o'clock, but the weather is "looking 
 wild." When your watch is called at midnight, you hear 
 the water thumping against the sides and the ship is rolling 
 and pitching through heavy seas. When the companion- 
 way is open you hear a dismal roar and the wind is howling 
 through the rigging. You are in Egyptian darkness and 
 hear the officers trumpeting their orders and the men shout- 
 ing from aloft, as they reef the topsails. It is enough to 
 terrorize any man. It was on such occasions as this that I 
 would think: "Oh ! how dreadful in a storm!" But the 
 work must be done. II' a man falls overboard, rescue is im- 
 possible. A boat would be smashed to atoms in a moment, 
 and it is useless to throw anything out in the darkness. 
 His grave is the sea, where thousands have found bnrial. 
 
 Spinning yarns is a favf»rite pastime. In every crew 
 there is usually someone who can play the violin, or banjo, 
 and the rest will d^nce from six o'clock until eight, evenings. 
 The first dog watch, from four o'clock until six, is occupied 
 in cleaning and sweeping the decks. At eight bells one 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 107 
 
 watch goes below. The watches are changed at midnight, 
 and again at four o'clock in the morning. From lour 
 o'clock until eight, A. M., is called the morning watch, and 
 at its close all hands are called on deck to prepare for 
 breakfast. Then one watch has the forenoon below. That 
 is the way the,y put in their time at sea. Plenty to do every 
 day in the week. There is an old saying that expresses it: 
 
 "Six days thou shalt work and do all thou art able. 
 Sundays, holy stone the deck and scrape the cable." 
 
 They usually do their washing Sundays. Practically 
 there is no religious Sunday 'off soundings." All days are 
 alike to them 
 
 They are constantly on the lookout for other ships, and 
 when one is sighted they run towards each other until 
 within hailing distance, then use the speaking trumpet: 
 "Hail ! what ship is that? Where from and where bound ?" 
 She answers, and asks the same question. Other questions 
 follow, then they steer so thac each can read the name of 
 the other on the stern. A boat will lower from each ship 
 and the Captains, each accompanied by one of his officers, 
 meet and exchange boat's crews. This constitutes the 
 usual exchange of courtesies. They swap ^news, and occa- 
 sionally someone gets a letter from home. This visiting at 
 sea is called gamming. We spoke a ship off the coast of New 
 Zealand, and learned that James K. Polk was president of 
 the United States. He had been in office over a year. One 
 old salt said: 'It is good; if Pork is president we will get 
 niore pork than beef." He mistook the name. On ship- 
 board, we usually get two barrels of beef to one of pork. 
 A sail, or land looks good after months at sea. 
 
 The sailor takes pride in having his ship tidy, the rigging 
 set up taut, and everything shipshape. When they enter 
 port, the sails are furled nice and the bunts are smooth, for 
 
108 :UY VOYAGE AEOrXD THE GLOBE. 
 
 this attention to details denotes good seamnnsliip. Old 
 Jack tar is proud of his ship — his home. 
 
 A burial at sea is the most solemn occasion; n.nd rugged 
 old tars, who scorn all weakness in the face of danger, shed 
 many a tear at the loss of a loved shipmate. The remains 
 of the departed are sewed up in canvass, and a cannon hall, 
 or bag of sand is atta died to the feet. The ship is hove to, 
 and the yards and rigging are creaking mournfull3\ The 
 bier is a plank. Two men hold one end of it, and the other 
 end rests on the rail amidship. On this plank the corpse is 
 laid, Vvith the feet to the sea. All hands are called to wit- 
 ness the bnrial. If there is no one to offer a prayer, they 
 rea.d one out of a prayer book. The tirst mate gives the 
 word: "Launch r' and the dead man slides feet foremost 
 into the sea. The sailors turn away looking sad, without 
 saying a word. Then they brace around the yards and file 
 a.way. You never hear s s;iilor mention the evil traits of 
 the departed; when they speaK of him, it is to recall his 
 good qualities. They are very superstitious, and for a 
 while are shy when going about the decks during a dark 
 night; but it soon wears off and is foregotten. 
 
 Such is the life of a seaman. He is exposed to man\' 
 hardships and dangers. A fall from aloft is quite sure to 
 end his life, whether he strikes the deck or goes into the 
 water. Two j^oung English lads were furlingthe topgalla.nt 
 sail, and the seizing that hfvld the foot rope parted. The^^ 
 fell overboard and that vvas the last that was seen of them. 
 The ship v/as la,ving over so that they missed the deck, but 
 either moant certain death. When I see boys who ilisobey 
 their pi rents, I think it would be a good place for tlieni on 
 shipboard. Tliere they soon learn that they must obey 
 those in an til (riity over them. It is worse for jou if you 
 refus(' to ol»(-v any order of a superior, and there is uo 
 (■]i:in(M'lo wkiilk or run. 
 
AfY VOYAdE AROFXD THE GLOBE. 109 
 
 There is something fascinatin<2^ in the sailor.s life. It i.s 
 in seeing- strange countries and people; and to many there 
 is noHiing more attractive than a ship under full sail. I 
 think it is one of the finest sights I have ever seen. It is 
 grand when passing another ship at sea; she rises majes- 
 tically on the crest of a wave, and a moment later is lost to 
 view in the trough of the sea. 
 
 I remember when I first started out on the whaler, and 
 while crossing the gulf stream, we had to break out for 
 water. We had to carry it in pails to the scuttle out on 
 the quarter deck. It held ten or twelve barrels. I had been 
 sick, was very weak, and not yet accustomed to the motion 
 of the ship. The ship was rolling, and it was difficult for 
 me to carry two pails of water without spilling some of it. 
 Nevertheless, if you allow any to slop over you are called 
 a land lubber and all sorts of pet names. It is not pleasant, 
 but you have to stand it, and not say a word back; but get 
 your sf a legs on as soon as possible. I tell you, boys, you 
 may think it nice, but ynu are likely to change your minds 
 if you ever come to the actual experience. If you should go 
 to sea, do the very best you can, or it will be the worse for 
 you. If you try to shirk the officers will notice it, you will 
 be set at all the extra jobs and hazed about the deck, until 
 you feel that life is a burden. Do your level best on all 
 occasions, without? grumbling. It will pay you in the end. 
 
 When we sail out on the ocean, we are astonished at its 
 immensity. On eyery hand it stretches away beyond tlie 
 horizon, and tiiere is no landmark to guide the mariner on 
 its surface. And when we see its face agitated by storms, 
 listen to the thunder of its billows, and meditate upon its 
 uncertain and mysterious character and the dangers associ- 
 ated with it always, we are awed by the majesty of its 
 presence. Familiarity does not diminish our appreciation of 
 its power, its grandeur, or its snblimitv. (^ne can hardlv 
 
110 MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 realize its vast extent, until he has crossed the mi^'ht.v 
 waste of waters. 
 
 My work is finished. In the foregoing pages I have given 
 a brief, but strictly truthful summary of my adventures 
 during a few years of my early life. To matters of fact I 
 might have added creations of fancy, and the result might 
 have been a more readable book, for those who read for 
 entertainment, only. But I have tabooed romance, pre- 
 ferring to submit simply a faithful transcript of events as 
 they occurred. If I have thrown any light that will benefit 
 the young, in trying to show them the dangers and perils of 
 a seaman's life, I shall feel satisfied with the result of my 
 effort in that direction. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
MY VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. Ill 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I— FROM LAKE COUNTY TO THE EQUATOR., 5 
 
 Opening scenes— A friend at Albany — The wlialeship Margaret Scott— Capt. 
 Plaskett, the 'Old Horse"— The start from New Bedford— Making Marline— 
 Purpoise fishing— Flying fish— Sailors' laws— Cape de Verde Islands— Capt. 
 Plaskett has tremens— Crof'sing the equator— Neptune initiates a subject 
 —Incidents and anecdotes. 
 
 CHAPTER II.— WHALE FISHING 17 
 
 jTreparatory arrangements aboard ship— Tlie pursuit and capture of leviathan 
 / Dangers of the chase— Securing and stowing the oil and bone— Death of 
 - our first mate— St. Paul's Island — Captain and new mate have a r ow— Trou- 
 l)le between the captain and Dr. Winslow— Island of Toboai— Arrive at 
 Tahiti. 
 
 CHAPTER III.— FAREWELL TO WHALING 31 
 
 The doctor gets even with the captain— Rum and bilge water— Deserting the 
 ship— Exciting experiences— Meet shipmates— Visit the Windward Islands 
 —Incidejits of the trip— Return to Pata— French vs. natives— Battle of 
 Point Venus— Missionary shot— Tahita— Characters and custo ms of the na- 
 tives—Aboard the Shepherdess. 
 
 CHAPTER IV.— TRAFFIC WITH THE NATIVES 41 
 
 The brig's equipment and business methods— Island of Rarotonga— We ent er 
 tain visitors- Tht captain and the cannon— The Samoan group— How we 
 lost our anchors— The Fijis a treacherous people— Girl offered for a mus- 
 ket— Remarkable differences in character— The Chain Islands- Taken sick 
 and left on the Friendly Islands. 
 
 CHAPTER Y.— LIFE AMONG THE NATIVES 47 
 
 The old lady doctor— Primitive barbering- Lafa Lafa— An exciting experience 
 -An object lesson— Learning the language— Go to Tonga— A native festi- 
 val—Mr. Thomas, and liis unregenerate charge— The bark Jane Eliza— The 
 darkey steward again— News of the whaleship— Earthquakes— Go to Va- 
 vau—tnterpreting— Choosing a tamai— Joseph Arnold— Work of the mis- 
 sions—Native cha'*acteristics, etc. 
 
 CHAPTER YI.— LIFE AMONG THE NATIVES.— Coz2tii3ized'....56 
 
 The native dress— Manufactures; cloth, mats, etc.,— Cooking— Bread fruit— The 
 cocoanut tree and fruit— Marriage ceremony— The feitoka or native ceme- 
 teiy— Turtle hunting— Rambles in the interior— The tabued grave— The 
 missionary's goat— TLe vaka or native canoe. 
 
112- MY ^T)YAGE AROUND THE GLOBE. 
 
 CHAPTER VIL— LIFE among the ^ATiYEfi.— Concluded... Q7 
 
 Joe Arnold, pilot, and the missionary's cast off beaver hat — Piloting and inter- 
 preting—Joe's hlacksmithing outfit— Our business flourishes— Chief Nafau, 
 my tamai (father)— Sad fate of a young whaleman— Flogging a brutal pun 
 ishment— A better way— Capt. Benj, Pri^e of Boston—' if the natives; their 
 historv, manners, customs, etc.- Capt. Bligh's estimate— Old Joe and Cap- 
 tain Clark— Na,tives ot different groups compared- 
 
 CHAPTER Vni.— MY TRIP TO THE NORTH 76 
 
 Biddingadieu to the Friendly islanders— Old Joe's lecture— Reflection, "The 
 Mariner's Grave— Arrive at Petropaulovski— Ears and salmon— A trip into 
 the country— A clam bake— The Kamtchatkan dog— Start for the Hawaiian 
 Islands— We encounter a gale— Arrive at Honolulu— My seaman's permit— 
 The Hawaiian group— Kamehameha III— Tars and Poe— The great volaa 
 noes— Capt. Cook's monument- Meet an old friend— The boarding hocs-s 
 and the milk bottles— A day on horseback— The "Blonde" dance houu— 
 Sailor characteristics— Pastimes at sea— The gonie. 
 
 CHAPTER IX.— HOMEWARD BOUND 88 
 
 The ship "Globe" and Capt Benj. Price— Island of Juan Fernandez— The quin- 
 ces and the jackass— Valparaiso and the Spanish Main— "Old Ironsides"— 
 Tom Coleman and his parrot— "Doubling the Horn"— "Magellan Clouds"— 
 Incidents of a gale— Storms at sea— "Ihe White Squall"— Our stay at Rio 
 de Janeiro— Arrive at Boston. 
 
 CHAPTER X.— THE mariner's life.— advice to the 
 
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