SF 503 
 .C74 
 Copy 1 
 
 Complete Guide 
 
 FOR 
 
 CONDITIONING, 
 
 HEELING AND 
 
 HANDLING 
 
 THE # GAME # COCK 
 
 FOR THE PIT 
 
 
 lllillillilii^^ 
 
 1 
 
COMPLETE GUIDE 
 
 — FOR — 
 
 CONDIXIONING, 
 
 HEBLING AND 
 
 HANDLING 
 
 The ' Gam? ' Co(k 
 
 FOR HTHE: pit. 
 
 BY 
 
 GEORGE CONDERMAN, M. D. 
 
 HORNELLSVILLE, N. Y. 
 
 Illustrated by Original Etchings. 
 
 PRICE ONE DOLLAR. ' 
 

 .C74 
 
 40821 
 
 COPYRIGHT 1899, 
 By GEORGE OONDERMAN, M. D. 
 
 -^^ 
 
 Press of the Eveniing Tribune, 
 hornellsville, n. y. 
 
 ^Ka'b^^^ JvaJ^ V^^'^^ 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 For years I have viewed with disfavor the 
 tendency on the part of practical cockers to 
 withhold Irom the traternity at large the 
 principles and methods employed by them 
 in conditioning, heeling and handling the 
 game cock. 
 
 In the past, when it has been so difficult to 
 obtain the necessary instructions in this line, 
 the professional cocker may have been justi- 
 fied in guarding his secrets so zealously, 
 they being his stock in trade, acquired as a 
 result of years ol experier.ce and at the ex- 
 pense of many a costly and expensive experi- 
 ment. 
 
 Nevertheless, I believe it is for the best 
 interest of those concerned in the advance- 
 ment of this sport, that the correct principles 
 be made public, thereby giving to the ama- 
 teur the benefit of the experience of his 
 elders, to the end that he may be relieved of 
 the embarrassment attending the placing of 
 his birds, money, reputation and peace ot 
 mind at the mercy ot some one who has a 
 
reputation as a heeler, but whose reliability 
 is questionable. 
 
 The correct principles of conditioning- and 
 heeling are by no means as difficult ot mas- 
 tering as most old cockers would lead one 
 to believe, yet there are a class of people so 
 sadly deficient in confidence in their own 
 ability as to be devoid of any tact or ingenu- 
 ity, consequently they can never become 
 successful heelers, and upon such the efforts 
 of this book will be labor lost ; but I trust to 
 the amateur endowed with good common 
 sense, who possesses the necessary confi- 
 dence, and who will follow closely the in- 
 structions laid down in this book, will be 
 rewarded by becoming a successful heeler 
 and handler of game cocks. 
 
 The mission of this book, therefore, is to 
 give to the possessor the information I have 
 been able to obtain, together with the benefit 
 of many years experience, to the end that 
 anyone who will practice my methods will 
 soon develop the necessary dexterity enab- 
 ling him to become his own heeler and 
 handler. Trusting that my efforts will meet 
 with the general approval ot the fraternity at 
 large, I am Faithfully yours, 
 
 George Conderman, M, D. 
 
TTHK PIT. 
 
 In constructing a pit you should strive to 
 have it at least 10x12 feet and about 18 inches 
 high ; also arrange to have corners "blocked" 
 or cut off, by placing a 10 or 12 inch strip 
 firmly in each corner. Insist upon having it 
 well lighted. Never fight in sawdust, dry 
 earth nor shavings. Tan bark is the only 
 bottoming, unless fresh earth is used. 
 
 CONDITIONING APARTMENTS. 
 
 Secure a good, warm, well lighted and 
 well ventilated room, so that the tempera- 
 ture may be kept at about 60 degrees, not 
 varying more than five degrees either way. 
 As lamp light is required room may be 
 darkened accordingly. 
 
 Insist upon a warm room lor heeling and 
 fighting. Never use a cellar lor a condition 
 place, and prohibit smoking in conditioning 
 apartments. 
 
CUTTING OUT COCK. 
 
 In cutting out a cock, the first feathers to 
 be trimmed should be the tail, leaving it not 
 less than six inches in length ; as much more 
 as natural, so long as you cut square across 
 the top. Next trim the feathers around the 
 bottom of the tail called cock leathers, either 
 in a straight or semi-circular line, according 
 to taste ; trim as near alike as possible on 
 each side so as to present a neat appearance. 
 Next trim the wings straight across, taking 
 off no more than necessary in order to get a 
 straight edge ; both wings should be trimmed 
 exactly alike as to length to insure the cock 
 being evenly balanced when in battle. 
 
 The vent shou'd always be trimmed. This 
 should be done when C(^ck is taken up for 
 conditioning. II permissible enough super- 
 fluous feathers may be cut Irom underneath 
 wings and saddle featheis and around bottom 
 ot tail to slightly decrease weight, or if 
 deemed advisable provided a cock is to be 
 fought in warm quariciS. 
 
 The feathers around the comb and head 
 are sometimes clipped closely to present a 
 neat appearance and harmony with other 
 extremity, insuring cleanliness and enabling 
 
the handler to more readily detect and judge 
 the result ot injury resulting from cuts about 
 the head. 
 
 HOW TO DISTINGUISH RIGHT 
 AND LEFT HEELS. 
 
 By clasping the leather ol a heel between 
 the thumbs and index fingers of both hands, 
 the heel on a level with your eye and extend- 
 ing from you, by sighting through the socket 
 you will observe that the point ot the right 
 heel will turn to your right and the point of 
 the left heel will turn to your left; in other 
 words, the points of the heels should always 
 point towards the cock's head. 
 
 EXERCISING. 
 
 During the time allotted for conditioning, 
 it is essential that cocks be tossed or ftirted 
 in order to develope wind and muscle, also to 
 improve the steadiness of the bird as well as 
 the disposition. It is therefore necessary 
 that you handle your birds as gently as pos- 
 sible ; by so doing you are benefited in the 
 end by noticing that such careful exercise 
 has been the result of careful treatment, and 
 
9 
 
 your birds will be cool, gentle and collected 
 throughout their battle. 
 
 Cocks should be tossed on a soft blanket 
 or cushion well padded with straw or hair. 
 Throw your birds up about two feet from 
 cushion, in such a manner that they will 
 strike directly on the cushion each time in 
 alighting. This is done by catching the bird 
 with both hands closely around the wings, 
 allowing your hngers to protrude under 
 each wing, but do not clinch or squeeze the 
 bird in the least; throw him in the air about 
 two feet, letting him strike on the cushion; 
 grasp him again gently pnd toss again, re- 
 peating until bird shows signs ot breathing; 
 this will be enough for the first day. In- 
 crease the work gradually'' each da}^ until 
 satisfied he has sufficient wind and muscle. 
 Alter two or three days it is excellent exer- 
 cise to walk a cock back and forward on 
 a long cushion until he regains his breathing 
 alter prolonged flirting. 
 
 As an advantage in determining fighting 
 qualities of a bird it is well to spar birds 
 during conditioning, by the use of muffs 
 tied on the bird's legs and letting him fly tor 
 a few minutes. This will enable you to 
 
10 
 
 closely observe as to the cock's peculiarities, 
 also being an excellent exercise and relief 
 from the strain and tedious course the bird 
 is undergoing-. Sparring once during con- 
 ditioning is sufficient and should be indulged 
 in about the tenth day, in the evening. Alter 
 sparring examine closely to be sure no injury 
 has been inflicted, bathe and dry birds and 
 retire them for the day. 
 
 EXERCISING A VICIOUS COCK. 
 
 The simplest and best method perfected to 
 enable one to train a vicious cock to give in 
 t^ ordinary methods ot being handled, is to 
 ^cL into a pit, if you fortunately can afford 
 one, if not a room suitably strewn with tan 
 bark as a bottoming. By drawing the at- 
 tention of the cock you are conditioning to 
 a bird you have in your hands he will fly all 
 over the room alter the bird. In this way 
 he will not only get the best of exercise but 
 will be taught to strike his opponent in any 
 part of the body, not waiting to find the 
 head, which has cost many a cock his life. 
 
 METHOD OF CONDITIONING- 
 
 Many methods have been advocated for 
 conditioning, each considered by its author 
 
11 
 
 as the best, yet the majority differing but 
 little in a few minor points. As it would be 
 impossible for me to give you all the known 
 methods and, on the whole, would only have 
 a tendency to confuse, I will minutely de- 
 scribe to you my favorite method, which I 
 believe possesses as much merit as any and 
 will yield perfectly satisfactory results. 
 
 Put your birds in condition coops, else- 
 where described and leave without food for 
 twenty-tour hours, but give all the water 
 they will drink, examine carefully to see that 
 they are in good health and feather, see that 
 they are tree from vermin — if not '' tallow " 
 is one of the best exterminators that is not 
 injurious to the birds — wash and dry the legs 
 and feet, clipping ofi the longer feathers 
 around the vent, carefully weigh with empty 
 crop, making a note of each one's weight 
 and also about how much you wish to re- 
 duce. If bird is very fat he will probably 
 stand about eig^ht ounces ; if not, five or six 
 ounces. Occasionally a cock will need to 
 take on a few ounces to be at his best. These 
 points can only be arrived at by experience 
 and good judgment, which will tell you what 
 you should consider proper fighting weight. 
 
12 
 
 If satisfied that you will fight the particular 
 cocks you have, cut them out and cut their 
 heels off one-half inch from leg", using pow- 
 dered chalk to stop the bleeding. This 
 should be pressed on the end ot the stump 
 with your thumb and held there for a tew 
 minutes. 
 
 For those that are tat give a pill to each, 
 composed of ten grains of cream of tartar 
 mixed in butter. In about an hour feed 
 bread and milk all that they will eat; then 
 flirt or toss a tew times to start physic. 
 In a few hours you may give a little toast 
 moistened with water or milk. 
 
 THIRD DAY. 
 
 In the morning give a few dips of raw 
 egg and feed of wheat. In the evening give 
 cracked corn, flirting twice through the day, 
 about forty tosses each time, giving water 
 twice, about four dips each time. 
 
 FOURTH DAY. 
 
 In the morning give a feed of dry " corn 
 bread " (made according to receipt elsewhere 
 given). In the evening feed wheat, exercis- 
 ing the same as previous day. Water twice, 
 about four dips each time. 
 
13 
 FIFTH DAY. 
 
 In the morning feed cracked corn. In the 
 evening feed either corn or wheat, giving 
 half ot hard boiled egg to each. Water 
 twice, about four dips each time. 
 
 SIXTH DAY, SEVENTH DAY, EIGHTH DAY. 
 
 Feed same as filth, increasing work to 60 
 or 65 tosses. 
 
 NINTH DAY. 
 
 In the morning feed pearl barley and give 
 barley water to drink. At noon feed a little 
 lean beef, chopped fine. Work twice, in- 
 creasing work to at least 75 tosses. In the 
 evening give half ot hard boiled egg and 
 cracked corn. 
 
 TENTH DAY. 
 
 In the morning give half of raw egg to 
 each and leed wheat ; at noon a piece of 
 sour apple. In the evening teed cracked 
 corn discontinuing the wheat from now, as 
 it may physic when you do not want it to do 
 so. 
 
 ELEVENTH DAY, TWELFTH DAY. 
 
 Feed corn twice, morning and night; 
 water twice always, but never more than 
 
14 
 
 five or six dips at a time, increasing work 
 gradually as they will stand it. 
 
 THIRTEENTH DAY. 
 
 It lought at night feed a little pearl barley 
 or cracked corn and a few dips of water, an 
 hour or so after feeding, exercising lightly. 
 
 Always handle your birds gently as pos- 
 sible, change straw in coop daily ; allow 
 them to become accustomed to lamp light, if 
 to be fought at night ; keep in a warm, well 
 ventilated place. 
 
 HEELING. 
 
 The noted Dr. Cooper was among the first 
 to lay down definite rules for heeling. These 
 are generally known to the cocking world, 
 and are as follows : 
 
 " Let your bird be held by a competent 
 person so that the inside of leg is perfectly 
 level ; cover the spur with a piece of damp 
 kid so as to get the socket of the gaff to fit 
 tightly and prevent its turning or shifting. 
 Then take your thumb and forefinger and 
 work the hind toe of the cock ; while doing 
 this you will see the leader of the leg rise 
 and fall at the upper joint ot leg. You will 
 set the right gaff on a line with the outside 
 
The above cut shows the vehitive points ou the cord 
 which are the guide for the proper setting of the heel. 
 Those on the left of page show where a head and meek 
 hitting cock should be heeled, those on the right a 
 shuffling cock. 
 
16 
 
 of leader at the upper joint, and the left gaff 
 you will set on a line with the inside ot lead- 
 er at the upper joint. Be caretul not to set 
 the point too tar in, as it would cause the 
 cock to cut himselt. When you have the 
 gaff arranged properly, tie it with good wax 
 ends, but not too tight as to cramp the legs 
 or toes. After the gaffs are tied on wet 
 your fingers and pull the cock's toes so they 
 will not be cramped." 
 
 The method ot Dr. Cooper is amongst the 
 most popular ones at this day, a large per- 
 centage of cockers faithfully adhering to the 
 same. 
 
 Grist in his " Keep " modifies the method 
 ot Dr. Cooper in that he directs that the 
 right gaff should be set on a line with the 
 outside of leader at the upper joint, and the 
 left gaff (instead of on a line with the inside 
 of leader advised by Dr. Cooper) he sets one- 
 eighth of an inch farther out than the right 
 gaff. This method is advised for one and one- 
 quarter inch up to two inches for day fighting. 
 
 If for night fighting, he directs that the 
 right gaff be set on a line with outer edge of 
 leg, and the left gaff one-eighth of an inch 
 farther out. 
 
17 
 
 You will notice that in both these methods 
 no distinction is made as to the fighting- pe- 
 culiarities of the cock heeled, as for instance 
 you may have a purely head and neck hitter, 
 known as a breaking fighter. You may have 
 a shuffling cock that may be a high or low 
 shufBer, or vou may have a mixed fighter. 
 
 Although I dislike to differ from the ex- 
 cellent authorities quoted, it has always been 
 my belief and experience that cocks should 
 be heeled in keeping with their fighting pe- 
 culiarities, which peculiarities should invari- 
 ably be ascertained by sparring the cock, 
 carefully noting the same and heel him ac- 
 cordingly. 
 
 Upon this theory I shall proceed to de 
 scribe to you minutely my method, for 
 which I not only claim scientific principles 
 but practical results. 
 
 In the first place, the cock should be in 
 perfect readiness to fight ; that is, cut out, 
 his heels having been previously sawed off 
 one-halt inch from the leg. 
 
19 
 
 Chamois skin strips, windings and packing 
 should all have been carefully selected and 
 close at hand, in order that the cock will not. 
 have to be held in a cramped position for a 
 longer time than is actually necessary. 
 
 See that you have perfect light and are 
 comfortably seated. Choosing the one you 
 consider most competent to hold the bird, 
 you have him seated directly opposite 3^ou 
 and direct him how you want the cock held. 
 
 It the right heel is to be heeled first, in- 
 struct the holder of the bird to put both 
 knees close together, laying the cock on his 
 right side in the lap of the holder, his right 
 arm being under the right wing, clasping 
 the shank of the right leg with his thumb 
 and middle hnger, allowing the index finger 
 to extend underneath the shank toward the 
 toes on the under side. This is done as 
 support to the leg while heeling. 
 
 The leg should not be raised nor lowered 
 nor held too tightly. The chamois skin 
 strips having been selected, being one-half 
 inch in width, any length desired unless re- 
 stricted, a small loop-hole should be cut 
 about one-half inch from the end of each of 
 the long strips. You should also have two 
 
20 
 
 short strips about two inches in length ; lay 
 on a short strip lengthwise of the leg, drawn 
 over the stub ot the spur; grasp the leg on 
 the under side, holding one end of chamois 
 down with your thumb on the upper side, 
 instruct the holder to do likewise at the other 
 end of chamois strip ; place the slit in end of 
 long strip over the short one and over the 
 stub, drawing down to the shank, making 
 one wind around the shank and over top of 
 sttib ; then make one wind on upper side 
 and wind below, place the heel on the stub 
 to see if a good fit is obtained ; if not, make 
 it so with another short strip, until a perfect 
 iit is obtained, winding above and below 
 until the long strip has been exhausted, al- 
 lowing one more wind below than above, 
 watch closely that a good, clean, perfect 
 wind has been made to insure a good foun- 
 dation for heeling. 
 
 Place the heel upon the stub with the right 
 hand, supporting the cock's leg with the left 
 hand, draw both ends of the leather between 
 the left hand supporting the leg. 
 
 With the right hand you work the hind 
 toe backward and forward to enable you to 
 locate the cord at the upper joint. The 
 
22 
 
 right heel is now on the right leg; draw the 
 heel on cord and hold again with left hand, 
 working the toe again, locate the center of 
 cord, to which point you draw the point ot 
 the heel ; this being done, be carelul not to 
 move the heel while drawing leathers closely 
 around the windings, ask the holder to allow 
 his index finger to hold the leathers in place. 
 
 Taking up the wax-end, ascertain the cen- 
 ter ; first wind below the heel, once around, 
 then above, once around ; winding below 
 again vou will bring the strings to the top, 
 making a loop around the blade at the top 
 ot socket with each string, then down again 
 on the same side, and continue to wind above 
 and below until satisfied that heel has been 
 safely tied. 
 
 Be caretul not to wind too tight so as to 
 compress or coid the cock's leg; the toes 
 should be carefully pulled ; then by placing 
 the cock on a round perch, as a broom han- 
 dle supported on edge ot chair or table, if 
 cock is able to grasp the same readily with 
 his toes you may be assured he is not corded. 
 
 The above method of adjusting and tying 
 on the heels should always be carefully 
 carried out. 
 
23 
 
 The left le[^ should be heeled b}^ having 
 the cock held in the same manner, but of 
 course turned upon his lett side, supporting 
 the leg to be held same as before, the holder 
 holding his right forearm over the right 
 wing and holding carefully between the 
 fingers of the right hand the heel which has 
 just been tied on, drawing it closely to the 
 cock's side, so as to prevent his cutting him- 
 self should he struggle while the other heel 
 is being tied on. 
 
 The left leg should be heeled as follows : 
 Keep well in mind the center of the cord 
 upon which you set the other heel, which 
 you will again locate by working the hind 
 toe. Now determine the middle distance 
 between the center of the cord and the inside 
 edge of cord ; set your lett heel directly on 
 this point, carrying out the same method of 
 packing and tieing advised for right leg. 
 
 You have now heeled perfectly a cock for 
 head and neck hitting, by some called a 
 breaking fighter. 
 
 For a shuffling cock the above instruction 
 
 differs but little, but you should be cautious 
 
 to observe and bear in mind their importance 
 
 i n the cutting qualities which will be produced 
 
24 
 
 The right leg for a shuffing cock is to be 
 heeled by setting the point ol blade midway 
 between the center and inner edge of cord, 
 the left heel to be set on the inner edge of 
 cord but no farther. 
 
 If the cock heeled is a high shnfher, heel 
 him the same as a head and neck hitter. In- 
 variably all game cocks strike closer with 
 left leg than with right. Should it be notic- 
 able that the right stub sets higher on leg 
 :jhan the left, you will know that the cock 
 strikes closer with right foot; in that instance 
 the heeling should be reversed according to 
 the style ol fighting produced by the cock. 
 
26 
 
 PITTING. 
 
 To become a successful pitter, one must 
 never loose his head in a fight. You must 
 be able to watch every movement ot not only 
 your own bird but that of your opponent 
 also, and must possess an eye that can calcu- 
 late to a certainty the damage your own 
 bird has received as well as inflicted, enabling 
 you to take advantage of all or any rules that 
 will allow you to be the aggressor or take 
 advantage of any point they may afford, as 
 lor instance, by the clever foresight ot a 
 handler he may allow his opponent the op- 
 portunity to foul when such a chance is in 
 store, but should be very reluctant and alert 
 that such chance may not be strewn in his 
 own pathway. 
 
 The pitter of a cock can onl3^ handle under 
 the rules prearranged for the battle, as when 
 hung either in himself or the web ot the pit 
 or when it may become necessar}^ to give a 
 cock his wing, being very careful as to only 
 this much being done, and that such permis- 
 sion is stipulated in the rules governing, 
 
 After first billing of cocks, and permission 
 having been given by referee allowing the 
 battle to proceed, a handler should always 
 
27 
 
 maintain strict punctuality, seeing that his 
 bird is always down on the score on time, 
 being- always ready and cautious when the 
 term ''handle" is called by referee, to be alert 
 to respond to separate cocks quickly and 
 lairly. 
 
 Always compl}^ strictly and faithfully with 
 the above, know the rules thoroughly, so as 
 to improve every advantage permissible, yet 
 take no chances of fouling. 
 
 A neat and clever handler will always be 
 possessed of a small vial of witch hazel or 
 other wash, as may be selected by himself, 
 and soft sponge to properly nurse his bird 
 between pittings, it allowed by rules govern- 
 ing. 
 
 Never fail to replace the wings to their 
 natural position, enabling a cock to produce 
 whatever speed he may possess. 
 
 If rules will permit, never fail to clear the 
 throat of a groggy cock as often as necessary 
 during time allowed ior nandling. Quick 
 and active handling at the proper time may 
 enable one to prevent a cock's becoming bad- 
 ly rattled or seriously injured about the 
 head and neck. 
 
 Never fail to carefully examine eyes, keep- 
 
28 
 
 ing as clean as possible. It blinked, be care- 
 ful in pitting to give the good side toward 
 the opponent. 
 
 In some articles, hovering over your cock 
 is considered untair, even if permitted by the 
 rules governing. Don't practice it, as it is a 
 disadvantage and injury to your own chance 
 of winning. Give your bird plenty of room. 
 Careful handling during conditioning and 
 pitting will protect yourself against one who 
 is constantly hovering or trying to ge't mixed 
 up with his own bird. Although often re- 
 sorted to in sharp practice, a competent pit- 
 ter and a well trained bird can protect him- 
 self when judges are honest and capable. 
 
29 
 
 VALUABLE RECEIPES. 
 
 For Canker in Mouth. — Use bu?-nt alum 
 Ireely after removing cankered tissue. It 
 very severe case burn the afTected surface 
 with a stick of nitrate ot silver every other 
 day. 
 
 For Cuts and Bruises or Sores of any 
 kind, whitch hazel salve is one ot the best 
 preparations to use. 
 
 For Vermin. — Dust with insect powder 
 and put a few drops ot ol. sassafras around 
 the vent. 
 
 For Wash During Conditioning— Witch 
 hazel is the most wholesome and strengthen- 
 ing of any to be used; is also a disenfectant. 
 Can be applied with a small sponge- 
 
 A few drops of Spirits of nitre in a quart 
 of water is a good thing lor fowls out ot 
 condition. 
 
 For Rattles in the Throat. — A tea- 
 spoonful of equal parts of vinegar and kero- 
 sene oil twice daily will accomplish as much 
 as anything that can be administered. 
 
30 
 
 Douglass Fluid Mixture. — 
 
 Sulphuric Acid, one ounce, 
 Copperas, one pound. 
 Water, two gallons, 
 
 One tablespoonful ot the solution to be used 
 
 in six quarts ot water. 
 
 • Douglass Powder Mixture. — Equal 
 parts of powdered 
 
 Rhubarb, Sulpher, 
 
 Charcoal, Capsicum, 
 
 Chalk, Sulphate of Iron. 
 
 Ginger, Rosin. 
 
 Use about one teaspoonful in each feed ot 
 bread and milk while conditioning. 
 
 Old Fashion corn Bread. — 
 
 One fresh egg, 
 
 Salaratus, one-half teaspoontul. 
 
 Buttermilk, one cupful, 
 
 Cornmeal, two cupsful. 
 
 Flour, one tablespoonful. 
 Steam two hours in tight pail, then place in 
 oven for twenty minutes. This is to be feed 
 during conditioning on the morning of the 
 iourth day. 
 
 For Bruises About the Head and Eyes, 
 use hot water freelv. 
 
31 
 
 DONT'S. 
 
 Don't tease a cock. 
 
 Don't dub your stags too early. 
 
 Don't spar a cock without muffs. 
 
 Don't fight a cock out of condition. 
 
 Don't spar your cock too frequently. 
 
 Don't be afraid of too much light^in pit. 
 
 Don't allow stags to be bossed when walk- 
 ed. 
 
 Don't fight a stag until at least ten months 
 old. 
 
 Don't think that games mature with equal 
 rapidity. 
 
 Don't think that all birds similarly bred 
 are equal fighters. 
 
 Don't let size nor color be your onl}- guide 
 in selecting your best chicks. 
 
 Don't condemn a bird because he will not 
 fight when out of condition. 
 
 Don't think by making a cock ugly you 
 will improve his fighting qualities. 
 
 Don't be convinced that continuous in- 
 breeding is»beneficial to your stock. 
 
 Don't fight a cock overweighted as the 
 wheeling habit is not to be acquired. 
 
32 
 
 Don't fight a cock with broken wing or tail 
 feathers, provided otherwise in condition. 
 
 Don't aHow printers' ink to induce you to 
 forsake a well-tried strain for an uncertainty. 
 
 Don't fight a cock in pin feathers,, toes that 
 have been frozen nor with cankered mouth. 
 
 Don't depend too much upon name, seek 
 speed, endurance and aggressiveness at all 
 hazards. 
 
 Don't put perches too high, nor use coal 
 cinders in the coop, or 3^our bird is liable to 
 develope corns, 
 
 Don't allow a cock to spar on a floor nor 
 smooth surface as great injury may follo\v 
 in event of straining himself. 
 
33 
 
 PIT RULES OF AHERICA. 
 
 In several of the old books on cock-fig-hting" 
 it was the custom to devote page after page 
 to the different sets of pit rules. Many of 
 the sets were very similar and some exactly 
 identical, yet all were given in lull. Some- 
 times the same set would be repeated under 
 another name, and oftentimes the same thing 
 would be told over and over again with very 
 little variation. Now the writer has here 
 attempted to arrange and condense the 
 essential rules into a small space, so that they 
 may be in a convenient, handy form, and still 
 so thorough that a man may grasp the essen- 
 tial features ot the whole outfit in a moment's 
 time. 
 
 There are in the United States and Canada 
 three distinct systems or plans of pit rules: 
 
 THE NEW YORK 
 
 set and its variations, used in New York, 
 New Jersey, and the New England States. 
 
 THE SOUTHERN 
 
 used in most of the Southern States east of 
 the Mississippi. 
 
 THE NEW W^ESTERN 
 
 used in nearly all the balance ot the states 
 
34 
 
 and also in Canada — by far the larg^est terri- 
 tory on the globe employing one system ot 
 pit rules. 
 
 NEW WESTERN PIT RULES. 
 
 1. The two pitters shall choose a time- 
 keeper and a referee. It shall be the duty of 
 the lormer to keep time between rounds, and 
 notify handlers to "get ready" at twenty-five 
 seconds, then call "time" at thirty seconds 
 The referee shall pay close attention to the 
 handlers and birds, and see that the fol- 
 lowing rules are strictly adhered to: 
 
 2. All birds under 6-4, weighing within 
 two ounces of each other are matched, ex- 
 cept stags and broken-bill and blinker cocks, 
 which shall be allowed four ounces against 
 sound cocks. Sound cocks weighing 6-4 and 
 upwards shall be fought as shakebags and 
 matched regardless of weight. 
 
 3. All gaffs shall be round from socket to 
 point ; no others will be allowed. 
 
 4. Alter the birds are heeled they shall be 
 weighed by the referee who will call out 
 their respective weights. He shall also ex- 
 amine the birds' gaffs. 
 
 5. Upon entering the pit the handler shall 
 let the cocks peck each other three or four 
 
35 
 
 times ; they shall then step to their respect- 
 ive scores, (which scores shall be tour teet 
 each way from the center), set their birds 
 squarely on their feet and instantly release 
 them. 
 
 6. It is no fight unless a blow is struck 
 while both cocks show. 
 
 7. It shall be unfair for a handler to touch 
 either cock except as directed by the reteree. 
 
 8. The referee shall order a handler to give 
 his cock a wing when necessary, or turn a 
 bird that is on its back. These directions 
 may be given only when the cocks are not 
 touching each other. 
 
 9. The referee shall call "handle" whenever 
 a cock is fast in his antagonist, in himself or 
 in the pit, (except during a count, in which 
 case the birds are not to be handled until the 
 end of the count), also at the end of "counts'' 
 and "minutes," and at other times when nec- 
 essary. 
 
 10. The handler of the gaffed cock shall 
 draw the heels, catching the leg of his oppo- 
 nent's bird below the hock joint. The bird 
 must not be raised from the pit floor until 
 alter the gaffs have been drawn. 
 
 11. Thirty seconds is the time allowed in 
 
36 
 
 all handlings, time to commence as soon as 
 the cocks are lilted off the floor of the pit. 
 
 12. Betvveen pittings it shall be lair for the 
 handlers to wash their birds' heads, give re- 
 freshments, and help their cocks in any other 
 way possible, but they must be ready to pit 
 promptly on call ot time. 
 
 13. As soon as one cock ceases fighting, 
 the referee shall call to the handler ot the 
 fighting cock. *' Mr. A., count;" whereupon 
 that handler shall count ten in an audible 
 tone. Alter being handled the cock shall be 
 pitted again and so continue until three tens 
 in all have been counted. After the third 
 count and handle, the cocks are to be placed 
 breast to breast on the center score, when 
 the pitter having the count shall count 
 twenty and the fight is ended in his favor. 
 
 14. The count can be broken only by a peck 
 or blow from the cock which is being counted 
 out, or by the death of the cock having the 
 count, or by that cock showing unmistakable 
 evidence of wanting to run away, in which 
 case the referee shall call "count broken." 
 
 15. It the cocks should both cease fighting 
 at the same time, or should refuse to meet at 
 the beginning of a round, the referee shall 
 
37 
 
 call for one minute's time, at the expiration 
 of which the cocks are to be handled and 
 again pitted. If they refuse to meet alter 
 the second minute, they are to be handled 
 and pitted again, until the expiration of the 
 third minute, and then they are to be hand- 
 led and breasted on the center score. And 
 if they still refuse to fight at the expiration 
 of one minute, a fresh cock is to be brought 
 to the pit. If one combatant shows fight and 
 the other does not, the battle is given to the 
 fighting cock. If both fight or both refuse, 
 it is a drawn battle. 
 
 i6. If both cocks die, neither having the 
 count, the longest liver wins. It the cock 
 having the count is dying and the other cock 
 wanting to run, the former wins the battle 
 even though he die before the expiration of 
 the count. 
 
 17. The reteree shall watch all movements 
 of the fight and confine the handlers strictly 
 to the above rules. He may overlook what 
 he believes to be an unintentional error, but 
 must decide the battle against any handler 
 who plainly and willfully violates the rules. 
 
88 
 NEW YORK RULES. 
 
 1. The pit shall be circular in shape, at 
 least eighteen feet in diameter and not less 
 than sixteen inches in height. The floor shall 
 be covered with carpet or some other suit- 
 able material. There shall be a chalk or some 
 other mark made as near to the center of the 
 pit as possible. There shall also be two 
 outer marks which shall be one toot each 
 way from the center mark. 
 
 2. The pitter shall select one judge who 
 shall choose a referee, Said judge shall de- 
 cide all matters in dispute during the pen- 
 dency of the fight, but in case of their inabil- 
 ity to agree, then it shall be the duty of the 
 referee to decide and his decision shall be 
 final. 
 
 3. Chickens shall take their age Irom the 
 the first day of March and shall be chickens 
 during the fighting season. 
 
 4. It shall be deemed foul tor any ot the 
 respective pitters to pit a cock or chicken 
 with what is termed a foul hackle, that is, 
 any of the feathers left whole on the mane 
 or neck. 
 
 5. The pitters shall let the cocks bill each 
 other three or more times, but this is not to 
 
39 
 
 be construed that the pitter ot a cock has a 
 right to bill with his opponent's cock for the 
 purpose of fatiguing him. 
 
 6. No person shall be permitted to handle 
 his fowl after he is fairly delivered in the pit 
 unless he counts ten clear and distinct, with- 
 out either cock making fight, or shall be fast 
 in his adversary, or fast in the carpet or hung 
 in the web of the pit or in himselt. 
 
 7. Any cock that may get on his back 
 shall be righted again by the pitter, but not 
 taken off the ground he is lying on. 
 
 8. Whenever a cock is fast in his adversary 
 the pitter of the cock the spurs are fast in 
 shall draw them out, but the pitter of the 
 cock has no right to draw out his own spurs 
 except when fast in himself or in the carpet, 
 or in the web ot the pit. 
 
 9. When either pitter has counted ten tens 
 successivelv without the cock refusing fight 
 or making fight, or on the two cocks being 
 again breasted fair on their feet, beak to beak 
 on the center score or mark, the cock refus- 
 ing to fight shall be declared the loser on ten 
 being counted. The pitters are bound to tell 
 each ten as they count them, as follows: 
 Once, twice, etc. 
 
40 
 
 10. No pitter atter the cocks have been de- 
 clared in the pit shall be permitted to clean 
 their beaks or eyes by blowing- or otherwise, 
 or be permitted to squeeze his fowl or press 
 him against the floor during the pendency 
 of the fight. 
 
 11. When a cock is pounded and no per- 
 son takes it until the pitter counts twenty, 
 and then counts nineteen or twenty and calls 
 three times, " who takes it," and no person 
 takes it, it is a battle to the cock the odds 
 are on ; but the pitter ot the pounded cock 
 has the right to have the pound put up that 
 is twenty dollars against one dollar. If this 
 is not complied with the pitter shall go on as 
 though there was no poundage. 
 
 12. If a cock is pounded and the poundage 
 is taken, and if the cock the odds are paid 
 against should get up and knock down his 
 adversary, then if the other cock is pounded 
 and the other poundage not taken before the 
 pitter counts twenty twice, and calls out, 
 " Who takes it," three times, he wins, 
 although there was a poundage before. 
 
 13. It shall be the duty of the respective 
 pitters to deliver their cock fair on its feet on 
 the outer score or mark facino^ each other, 
 
41 
 
 and in a standing position, except on the fifth 
 ten being told when the3^ the two cocks, 
 shall be placed on the centre score, breast to 
 breast and beak to beak in like manner. Any 
 pitter being guilty of shoving his toot across 
 the score, or of pinching or using any other 
 unlair means for the purpose of making his 
 cock tight, shall lose the tight. 
 
 14. If both cocks fight together, and then 
 both should refuse until they are counted out, 
 in such cases a tresh cock is to Le hoveled 
 and brought into the pit, and the pitters are 
 to toss lor which cock is to set-to first. 
 He that wins has the choice. Then the one 
 which is to set-to last is to be taken up but 
 not carried out of the pit. The hoveled cock 
 is then to be put down to the other and al- 
 lowed to fight while the judges, or one of 
 them, shall count twenty. The same opera- 
 tion shall be gone through with the other 
 cock, and if one fight and the other refuse, it 
 is a battle to the fighting cock, but if both 
 fight, or both refuse, it is a drawn battle. 
 
 N. B. This rule is rarely carried into effect, but auy 
 pitter cau exact it if he think proper to clo so. 
 
 15. If both cocks refuse fighting until four, 
 five or more or less tens are counted, the pit- 
 ter shall continue their count until one cock 
 
42 
 
 has refused ten time, tor when a pitter begins 
 to count he counts for both cocks. 
 
 i6. If a cock should die before he is count- 
 ed out he wins the battle if he fights last. 
 This, however, is not to apply when his ad- 
 versary is running away. 
 
 17. The crowing or raising of the hackle 
 of a cock is not fight, nor is fighting at the 
 pitter's hands. 
 
 18. A breaking cock is a fighting cock, but a 
 cock breaking from his adversary is not fight. 
 
 19. If any dispute arises among the pitters 
 on the result of a fight the cocks are not to be 
 taken out of the fight, nor the gaffs taken off 
 until a decision has been made by the judges 
 or referee. 
 
 20. Each cock within two ounces of each 
 other shall be a match except blinkers, when 
 they are fighting against two eyed cocks, 
 an allowance from three to five ounces shall 
 be made. When blinkers are matched against 
 each other, the same rule to apply as in ref- 
 erence to two-eyed cocks 
 
 21. All matches must be fought with heels, 
 round from the socket to the point, not ex- 
 ceeding one and a quarter inches in length 
 unless otherwise agreed upon. Drop Sockets, 
 
43 
 
 Cutters, Slashers and twisted heels shall be 
 considered foul. 
 
 22. Previous to heeling- the cocks in fight- 
 ing mains the tour spurs ot same pattern and 
 size shall be placed together and the pitter 
 shall toss for choice ot them. 
 
 23. In all mains at the end of each battle 
 the judges shall order the spurs to be chang- 
 ed, i. e., the spurs ot the winning cock must 
 be placed on the loser's next fowl and chang- 
 ed at the end of each battle. 
 
 24. Any person fighting a cock heavier than 
 he is represented on the match list shall lose 
 the fight, although he may have won. 
 
 25. In all cases of appeal, fighting ceases 
 until the judges or the referee give their de- 
 cision, which shall be final and strictly to the 
 question before them. 
 
 26. When a bet is made it cannot be declar- 
 ed off unless by consent of both parties, all 
 outside bets to go according to the main bet. 
 
 27. Each pitter when delivering- his cock 
 on the score shall take his hands off him as 
 quickly as possible. 
 
 28. Any person violating any of the above 
 rules shall be deemed to have lost the match. 
 
44 
 
 SOUTHERN RULES. 
 
 Note. On the morning- the main is to com- 
 mence the parties decide by lot who shows 
 first. It is to be remembered that the party 
 obtaining choice generally chooses to weigh 
 first, and consequently obliges the adverse 
 party to show first, as the paity showing first 
 weighs last. When the show is made by the 
 party the door of the cock house is to be 
 locked and the key given to the other party, 
 who immediately repairs to his cock house 
 and prepares for weighing. There ought to 
 be provided a pair of good scales and weights 
 as low down as half an ounce. One or two 
 judges to be appointed to weigh the cocks. 
 Each party by weighing the cocks intended 
 for the show, a day or two betorehand and 
 having all their respective weights, would 
 greatly facilitate the business of the judges. 
 There ought to be no feathers cut or plucked 
 from the cocks before they are brought to the 
 scale, except a few from behind to keep them 
 clean, and their wings and tails clipped a 
 little. 
 
 2, As soon as the cocks are all weighed the 
 judge, the writers and the principals of each 
 party and as many besides as the parties may 
 agree upon, are to retire for the purpose of 
 matching. They are to be all even matches 
 first, then those within one ounce, and after- 
 
45 
 
 ward those within two ounces; but if more 
 matches can be made by breaking an even 
 or one ounce match, it is to be done. 
 
 3. On the day ot the showing-, only one 
 battle is to be fought. Il is to be remember- 
 ed that the party winning the show gains also 
 the choice ol fighting this first battle with any 
 particular cocks in the match. Afterwards 
 they begin with the lightest pair first and so 
 on up to the heaviest, fighting them in rota- 
 tion as they increase in weight. The first 
 battle, too, will fix the mode of trimming. 
 
 Rule i, When the cocks are in the pit, 
 the judges are to examine whether they are 
 fairly trimmed and have fair heels. It all be 
 right and fair, the pitters are to deliver their 
 cocks six feet apart (or thereabouts) and re^ 
 tire a step or two back ; but if a wrong coct: 
 should be produced, the party so offending 
 forleits that battle. 
 
 2. All heels that are round from the socket 
 to the point are allowed to be fair; any pit- 
 ter bringing a cock into the pit with any other 
 kind of heels, except by particular agree- 
 ment, forfeits the battle. 
 
 3. Il either cock should be trimmed with 
 a close, unfair back the judge shall direct 
 the other to be cut in the same manner, and 
 at the time shall observe to the pitter that if 
 he brings another cock in the like situation, 
 unless he shall have been previously trimmed, 
 he shall forfeit the battle. 
 
46 
 
 4- A pitter when he delivers his cock shall 
 retire two paces back, and not advance or 
 walk around his^cock until a blow has passed. 
 
 5. An interval ot — minutes shall be allow- 
 ed between the termination of one battle and 
 the commencement ot another. 
 
 6. No pitter shall pull a leather out ot a 
 cock's mouth or from over his eyes or head, 
 or pluck him by the breast to make him fight, 
 or punch him for the like purpose, under 
 penalt}^ ot forfeiting the battle. 
 
 7. The pitters are to give the cocks room 
 to fight, and not to hover and press on them 
 so as to retard their striking. 
 
 8. The greasing, peppering, muffing and 
 sooping a cock, or any other external appli- 
 cation, are unfair practices, and by no means 
 admissible in this amusement. 
 
 9. The judges, when required, may suffer 
 a pitter to call in some of his friends to assist 
 in catching the cock, who are to retire imme- 
 diately when the cock is caught, and in no 
 other instance is the judge to suffer the pit 
 to be broken. 
 
 10. All cocks on their back are to be imme- 
 diately turned over on their bellies by their 
 respective pitters at all times. 
 
 11. A cock when down is to have a wing 
 given him if he needs it, unless his adversary 
 is on it, but his pitter is to place the wing 
 gently in its proper position, and not to lift 
 
47 
 
 the cock ; and no wing is to be given unless 
 absolutely necessary. 
 
 12. If either cock should be hanged in 
 himselt, in the pit, or canvass, he is to be 
 loosened by his pitter; but if in his adversary 
 both pittersare to immediately lay hold of 
 their respective cocks, and the pitter whose 
 cock is hung shall hold him steady while the 
 adverse draws out the heel, and then they 
 shall take their cocks asunder a sufficient dis- 
 tance for them fairly to renew the combat. 
 
 13. Should the cocks separate and the 
 judge be unable to decide which fought last, 
 he shall at his discretion direct the pitters to 
 carry their cocks to the middle of the pit and 
 deliver them back to back, unless either of 
 them is blind ; in that case they are to be 
 shouldered, that is, delivered with their 
 breasts touching, each pitter taking care to 
 deliver his cock at this, as well as all times 
 with one hand. 
 
 14. When both cocks cease fighting, it is 
 then in the power of the pitter of the last 
 fighting cock, unless they touch each other, 
 to demand a count of the judges, who shall 
 count forty deliberately, which when count- 
 ed out, is not to be counted again during 
 the battle. Then the pitters shall catch their 
 cocks and carry them to the middle of the 
 pit and deliver them beak to beak; but to be 
 shouldered if either are blind as before. 
 Then if either cock refuses or neglects to figh 
 
48 
 
 the judge shall count ten, and shall direct the 
 pitters to bring their cocks again to the mid- 
 dle of the pit and pit as before ; and if the 
 same cock in like manner refuses, he shall 
 count ten again and call out -'twice refused," 
 and so proceed until one cock thus refuses 
 six times successively. The judge shall then 
 determine the battle against such cock. 
 
 15. If either cock dies before the judge 
 can finish the counting of the law, the battle 
 is to be given to the living cock, and if both 
 die, the longest liver wins the battle. 
 
 16. The pitters are not to touch their cocks 
 whilst the judge is in the act of counting. 
 
 17. No pitter is ever to lay hold of his 
 adversary's cock, unless to draw out the heel 
 and then he must take them below the knee. 
 Then there shall be no second delivery, that 
 is, after he is once delivered he shall not be 
 touched until a blow is struck, unless or- 
 dered. 
 
 18. No pitter shall touch his cock unless at 
 the time mentioned in the foregoing rules. 
 
 19. If any pitter acts contrary to these 
 rules, the judge, if called upon at the time, 
 shall give the battle against him. 
 
'-'r N^WIIOI^tOO 
 
 002 857 234 7