h""^^. <6 9^ V lontreal by way of Chazy AND )wn the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. A BICYCLE TOUR. LITTLE CHAMPLAiN STREET, QUEBEC. PRICE 25 CENTS. AUTHOR'S NOTE. The last chapter of this book first appeared in the Boston Courier, under the title : •' Canada's Attitude Toward the United States," and is re-published by per- ACKNOWLEDGMENT. Many of the illustrations that embellish this narrative are reproduced from photographs taken by the Authors during the journey, but to the kind courtesy of The Canadian Pacific Railway, whose splendidly equipped line and superb service are so highly appreciated by the patrons thereof, the Authors are indebted for the follow- ing plates : — Dominion Square, Montreal ; Notre Dame Cathedral, Lachine Rapids, The Cidatel, Quebec; Chateau Frontenac, St. Louis Gate, Martello Tower, Little Cham- plain Street, Quebec; Falls of Montmorency, The Basilica, (two views) ; Ste. Anne de Beaupre. MONTREAL by way of CHAZY AND Down the St. Lawrence River to Quebec. BY ALLAN ERIC AND THE "JUNIOR PARTNER.' Authors of: — " Buckra " Land, A Vacation Tour Awheel, Follow- ing the Tow-Path and Through the Adirondacks Awheel, The Comic History of Spain, Two Years a Castaway on a Tropical Island, Etc., Etc. 1899. BOSTON : Geo. R. Willis & Co., 286 Washington Stuhht. TWO COPIES RECEIVED. Ufbrary of Congre»«| Office of the NOV 181899 Register of Copyrtghtfc 48573 Copyright, 1899, By the Authors. 6 SECOND COPY, LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. The Authors, en route Frontispiece. PAGE. Breakwater and Lighthouse, Lake Champlain - - - 32 On the Frontier 36 General View of Montreal 44 Dominion Square, Montreal 46 Lachine Rapids 48 Notre Dame Cathedral, Montreal 50 A Drogher on the St. Lawrence River . . - - 52 The Citadel, Quebec . 54 Falls of Montmorency - 56 The Basilica, Ste. Anne de Beaupre 58 Interior of the Basilica 60 Booths Near the Church 62 Shrirfe in the Garden 64 Wolfe Monument, Quebec 66 Chateau Frontenac, Quebec 68 St. Louis Gate, Quebec 10 Martello Tower, Quebec 72 Grand Battery, Quebec 76 On the Summit of Mount Royal, Montreal .... 78 I MONTREAL by way of CHAZY AND Down the St. Lawrence Eiver to Quebec. CHAPTER I. Such an extended trip, embracing something hke fifteen hundred miles, could not be accom- plished wholly on bicycles, in the time at our dis- posal. But when we were seated comfortably in a luxurious parlor car and the train on the Fitch- buig railroad pulled out of the Union Station, in Boston, our wheels, luggage and full equipment were in the baggage car ahead. Although we had several times ridden over the Fitchburg road on that splendidly appointed ex- press, it is always new, always delightful, ever re- plete with rare enjoyment such as luxurious equip- ment, courteous officials and rare scenery com bined, can afford. The time passed pleasantly, with an agreeable traveling companion, as the train sped on over the length of the State of Mas- sachusetts, past fertile farms, beautiful valleys and over rushing streams, making few stops unti\ we were within the shadow of the Hoosac Moun- tains; and then we began to anticipate that al- 10 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. ways interesting experience, the passage through the famed Hoosac Tunnel, which, for travelers, renders this line particularly attractive; for there is a novelty in shooting through a tunnel, miles in length, of which one never wearies. A sudden exit from the bright light of day, a prolonged roar, a sudden flash and the train shot into the bright sunlight of the perfect July day: and we realized that we had passed under th> mountains that towered thousands of feet above us. Then on to the northwest corner of the state, across a bit of Vermont, roaring over streams above which darted great northern king-fishers, and the train stopped at Hoosic Junction, a ro- mantic spot in the State of New York. Here we disembarked, and made haste to strap the lug gage, the camera and the large foot-pump upon the wheels, while an interested audience gathered around. We formed a unique caravan, no doubt, for anyone could see that we were equipped for n journey, and it is not often that bicycles are seen in such touring equipment. The case containing extra clothing, photographic plates and some other articles was forwarded by express to Bur- lington, Vt., where we expected to require it. We were bound for Eagle Bridge, only two miles distant, where we were to embark on an- other railroad for Fairhaven, Vt., for, having on a previous trip ridden on our wheels over this route, we preferred not to go over it a second time; therefore we proposed to make Fairhaven, near the head of Lake Champlain, that night. But although Eagle Bridge wns but two miles away, we were obliged to ride back, eastward. MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 11 about two miles, in order to cross the river; so we had really more than four miles to ride in reach- ing Eagle Bridge. While the road had been rend- ered rough by recent rains, there had been sufiBi- cient teaming over it to make a fair path in the wheel track, and we were not long in reaching Eagle Bridge. Going up to the railroad station we found that we had two hours to wait for a train on the other road; but the time did not prove monotonous, as the oflBcials about the station made things very pleasant for us. When at last the train arrived we went aboard in a smart shower, during which the wheels re- ceived a little wetting, all because the baggage master neglected to place them in proper shelter, thinking, probably, that they were wheelbarrows or some such delicate machines, instead of pieces of finely constructed mechanism. Instead of starting on time, we had a tedious wait which was very annoying to us, as we had to ride over the road, eight miles, from Poultney, whither we were bound by rail, to Fairhaven, and, not knowing what the condition of the roads might be, we naturally wished to go over them before dark; and every minute lost might mean an hour of stumbling along through the dark with our heavily-loaded wheels. While the fireman and the engineer smoked and took things easy, we consulted the time-table of this particular road, from which is taken the following quotation, by which it will be seen the road lets itself down very easy: "Showing the time at which trains may be expected to arrive at and depart from the 12 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. several stations, but their arrival or departure at the time stated is not guaranteed, nor does the company hold itself liable for any delay or any consequences arising therefrom." But there is always an end to all things, and so at length, the train started, and at once set about making up lost time. The car was light and the speed being terrific, we were snapped around curves until our necks were full of "cricks," our backs were nearly broken and our heads ached That ride can only be compared to a ride in a farm wagon, without springs, drawn by a pair of horses at full gallop over a very poor corduroy road. The train stopped frequently to let passengers on and off, and probably to leave the mail. At each station large delegations were present to see the train come in and to shake harids, kiss and talk to one another, while the train waited for them to do it— it almost seemed to us. The ami able conductor, a veteran of the road, seemed to know everybody who got aboard, all up through that country, and greeted them as old acquaint- ances. Between some of the stations he came and talked to us about the people along the way which explained the familiar greetings between him and local denizens as the train pulled in and out of stations. He knew who lived in nearly every farm-house beside the line, and was posted with regard to family details. But he couldn't help that. A man who has been passing over the same route for two or three decades, must, of ne- cessity, know something about the people. He even claimed to know the pedigrees of most of MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. IS the hens in the farmyards, and related to us hov? he had once partaken of a fowl at a farmer's table, whose house he pointed out as we jogged past, but he stated that he had too much respect for old age to ever repeat the experiment. Meanwhile the engineer had been making up time, so we were only a few minutes late ii reaching Poultney. We made haste to secure our wheels, which, by the way, were thrown from the baggage car as though they had been pig-iron, time being very precious (vide., the quotation from the time-table). Hastily securing the baggage we started for Fairhaven. Delighted, beyond meas- ure, to find the road excellent, the eight miles' ride was a superb spin. The sun being set, the air was cool, and we glided by quiet pastoral scenes, while fire-flies danced over the meadows and across the road. Just at dark the lights of Fairhaven glimmered ahead, and presently we dismounted in front of "The Cottage," where a fair figure clad in white tripped down the path to greet us. In spite of our late arrival, thanks to a telegram which I had sent from Eagle Bridge and to the thoughtfulners of the landlord, an acceptable supper awaited us and the landlord and his wife sat with us at the table while we ate and conversed, reminiscently. CHAPTER II. We did not hurry about setting out the next morning for the reason that we intended to go only to Larrabee's Foint, a little place on Lake Champlain, opposite Ticonderoga, which, we had every reason to expect from our experience the summer previous, would be a very easy run. W<> were looking forward with much pleasant antici- pation to meeting again our friends at Larrabee's. also to making a brief call at a farm house on the way where we had been so hospitably entertained at dinner on our former tour. It was a perfect morning overhead, and we left Fairhaven with every expectation of having a de- lightful ride. But alas; this life is replete with surprises and disappointments, as well as pleas- ures. For perhaps a couple of miles we rod? along very comfortably; but then wc struck some rough road. This did not alarm us, however for we believed it would be only temporary. While walking up a small hill a party of young men and ladies on wheels, in faultless costumes, overtook and passed us; but it was not long before it was demonstrated that riders who go out for an oc- casional "spin" do not hold out against seasoned tourists, for we presently passed thorn at rest be neath some trees beside the road as we flew by. while we navigated our heavily-loaded wheeL-* C/t-c^^o-*- O-vt, cs^ ffi^ f y MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 15 over the rough road. The further we proceeded the more walking we did, until we ceased to ride altogether. Our surprise and disappointment were great, as the road continued to stretch ahead of us, entirely unridable; this road, which we had found so perfect a year ago. The explanation of it was that, two or three days previous, there had been heavy rains, and the soil being clayey, the teams passing over it while the surface was soft had broken up the surface, and the day mud hav- ing dried, the result was the roughest and the most utterly unridable road that we had ever seen; a continuous stretch of sharp projections, almost as hard as flint, over which we walked with great effort. Mile after mile we walked: making very slow progress, hoping against hop 5 that there would be an end to it. But no. W*i stopped once or twice to refresh ourselves witi? wild raspberries, and once for a drink of cold water from a mountain stream. Our progress wa$» so slow that we lost all idea of our location, and we were getting desperately hungry. We kept looking for the farm-house where we wished lo call and renew old acquaintance, but it did not appear. Finally we concluded that we must have, in some way, left the right road ; and so we lifted our wheels over the fence and struck across a field toward a house on the other road, which ran to the right of us, only more to the east than the one we were traversing. At this house we made inquiries that resulted in no satisfaction, and after the farmer and his robust family, who were sitting on the veranda digesting their recent din- ner, had favored us with a pitcher of ice-water— 16 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. and ^ve were surprised to find ice at a farm-bonse —we went on, taking a near-by cross road back to the road we had left. We walked on, silently, doggedly, well nigh discouraged; for, if this con- dition continued, there was no hope of reaching Larrabee's that day, or even the next. While as- cending a long hill we fully decided that further effort was useless, for we were very tired and nearly famished. At the top of the hill we saw a farm-house, and hurried to it with the hope that we could obtain something to eat; but to our great disappointment it proved to be deserted. Here the Junior Partner said that she could go no further, and to me the outlook appeared hopeless. Leav- ing her on the veranda of the deserted house I walked on a few rods to where I could see down the other side of the hill, hoping to discover an- other house not far away; but there was none, only an interminable road, rough and unridable stretching on and on. It was now nearly the middle of the afternoon. Going down into a field where some men were at work, I got some wate»* in half a cocoanut shell and carried it to the Jun- ior Partner. Slightly refreshed, we retraced our steps about half a mile to a road we bad passed, leading to the westward, to Benson, near the lake. If we could roach there we felt sure of getting something to eat, and hoped to find some trans- poi-tation up the lake. As we reached the junc- tion of the roads we saw, coming toward us, 9. team heavily loaded with lumber. There were two men with it, and we anxiously waited to see if they were going toward Benson, and a great load was lifted from us when the team turned MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 17 into the road and the men readily consented to take us and our wheels to Benson. So the Junior Partner was j?iven a seat beside the driver, while I rode on the top of the load, steadying the wheels. Thus we rode into Benson, and, oblivious to the curious stares of the villagers, got off at the hotel. To the landlord I made known our situation, and asked that he furnish us with something to eat. It was far past the dinner hour and he did not enthuse over the proposition; but I told him that we must have something to eat, and that there could be no ifs or ands about it, whereupon he called his wife, and we sat down to a very indif- ferent meal at a good, round price. However, -it was better than nothing. While at the table we discussed with the land- lord concerning the means of getting to Larra- bee's. There was no steamer, and it did not ap- pear very certain that we could reach the ferry. about four miles away, catch the sail ferry bv^at and get across the lake in season to get a train on the other side. In the course of conversation we mentioned going to Larrabee's by team, and I asked the landlord what he would charge to take us and our wheels there. He named a price which seemed reasonable, and to it we agreed. Almost as soon as we had finished dinner a team, consisting of a pair of horses and a beach wagon, was ready, and with the wheels in behind us, we started. To our surprise the driver turned In the opposite direction from Larrabee's, and the Jun- ior Partner mentioned it to him. He was greatly surprised, for he had been ordered to take us to 18 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. the ferry. So we turned around and returned to the hotel, had a few words with the blundering landlord, made a new price, a dollar more, and started again. We will pass over the ride briefly; though, un- der any other circumstances and condition of the road, which allowed the horses to proceed at a pace but little faster than a walk, it would have been enjoyable and romantic, as It was, it was not very unpleasant, though several stops wei*e necessary to re-adjust the wheels, and we arrived at Larrabee's, driving up to "The Locusts'* just about sunset. The welcome which we received after our gloomy day from the Doctor, the "Pilot" and fram "Jack," made us forget our trials. Nor shall we ever forget that first evening at that delightful re- treat close to the lake — and we, the Doctor and I, smoked, and smoked, and smoked, until a late hour, our smoke-talk being occasionally broken, however, by the congenial society of the ladies; for, be It here known, the "Pilot," "Jack" and the Junior Partner were all of the fair sex. CHAPTER III. Our friends, we learned, had no idea of allowing us to go on the next day; on the contrary, they had laid plans for our entertainment and pleas- ure, no less than a voyage down (no, up) the lake on the Doctor's steam-yacht ** Refuge." Now about going *'up" the lake. I never could get Lake Champlain straightened out in my mind, be- cause one naturally associates south with "down " and north with "up;" but as the head of Lake Champlain is to the south, and the foot, where it empties its waters through the Richelieu river la- the St. Lawrence, is to the north, when you go up the lake you go down, and when you go down th*i lake you go up— up south and down north sounds funny, but the lake is wholly to blame. The Doctor said something about calling us Id the morning. But that wasn't necessary, for I got up half a dozen times in the night and looked out of the window to see if we were to have a fine day, and so I was awake about as early as the Doctor was. The Doctor, with the aid of his big, handsome dog "Don," his inseparable companion, had got the curtains of the "Refuge" snugly stowed, and she lay at her anchorage as jauntily as a duck. The morning was beautiful and the lake, spark- ling in the bright sunlight, reflected the shadows of the magnificent locust trees on the lawn at the water's edge— not forgetting the cork tree. 20 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. The Doctor appeared at the breakfast table clad for a long voyage. The Pilot and the Junior Partner were in good spirits, and Jack was as sweet as the pinks that blushed on the lawn. To add to the pleasure of the day, there had been invited three young ladies and a gentleman, all of whom appeared in good time. During the embarkation of the stores, Jack assisted the Doc- tor, and rambled about from one rocking ])oat to another as though they were solid rocks. A thorough boatman is Jack. Meanwhile Don got terribly excited for fear that he was not down upon the ship's papers for the day's voyage; and I fully believe that it would have broken his heart if he had been left behind. He obediently lay upon the lawn, at the Doctor's command, un- til the stores were aboard, and the ladies. But then he could no longer endure the strain, for he rushed down to the landing, barking joyously, and was transported to the Refuge. Then he was su- premely happy. All aboard and snugly stored, and Jack lighted the fire under the boiler. In an incredibly short time steam was up and the Doctor, who was chief engineer, started the engine. The Doctor is as skilful an engineer as ever opened a throttle on Lake Champlain. He knows a marine engine from eccentric to crank-pin, and the slightest un- usual sound from the engine while it is working attracts his attention and causes him to feel at once for the proper tool with which to set every- thing right. The Pilot, who is duly licensed as such, took the wheel, and as the screw began to revolve xhe MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 21 Refuge swung gracefully around and headed for the draw (?) bridge over which the railroad crosses the lake, which is narrow here. The Pilot blew the whistle for the draw to be opened, and then she disturbed the atmosphere with the syren. This syren will bear looking into, as the Doctor said one day as he gazed down its yawning mouth. It gives forth the most unearthly sound that ever cleft a glorious morning in twain. As it bellows out, the torn and tattered sound as it reverberates from headland to headland is like unto a thousand catamounts, and ten thousaad Indian devils. When this syren was first import- ed from Africa it frightened half the populatlor. of Vermont out of several years of growth. Now the Pilot has got the blowing of the syren down to a science, as the Doctor said, and when she toys with the rope the demons are let loose, un- muzzled. Meanwhile the draw swung open. It is a fear- ful and wonderful draw. When it opens it looks as though half the bridge had broken away and started to float off up the lake. It is moved by means of engines and huge chains that hang sus- pended beneath the surface of the water, their weight causing them to sag sufficiently to allow the keels of boats and steamers to pass over them. The opening of the draw was wide enough for a cathedral to be towed through, and the Ref- uge glided through as though she owned the lake, her two yacht club flags fluttering from the peaks, fore and aft. Meanwhile the Doctor was by the engine, Don stood the port watch, while all the rest, myself 22 MONTREAL FY WAY OF CHAZY. excepted, gathered in the saloon aft and were comfortable and happy. The "Twins" made a lovely picture as they reclined in the stern sheets. As for me, I was perfectly happy up forward with the Pilot, who pointod out to me all the points of interest on either shore. Among the most interesting objects was the ruin of old Fort Ticonderoga, which stands on a bold, high head- land not far from the mouth of the creek which forms the outlet for the waters of Lake George into Lake Champlain. This historic fortitication was erected by Baron Dieskau, the French general, in 1755, and it was somewhat enlarged in 1757, when it was occupied by Montcalm, who marched thence to attack Fort William Henry. Fort Ticonderoga and the immed- iate vicinity was the scene of many bloody con- flicts between the French and English. On ihe morning of the 10th of May, 1775, the fort was surrendered to Gen. Ethan Allen, who demanded its capitulation "In the name of the Great 3?- hovah and the Continental Congress." In 1777 General Burgoyne, M-ith 7,500 British soldi*^rs, laid siege to the fort, from Mt. Defiance, from which latter point they were able to drop shot over into the fort, and it was abandoned on the night of July 4th. After the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga the British retired into Canada, but in 17S0 the old fort was again occupied by the troops under General Haldiman. Referring to the ruins of today— the old battery on the bluff is said to have been the original Carillon. Back on the higher ground are the barrack walls, trenches and bastions. On the west, beyond the outlet of Lase MONTREAL RY WAY OF CHAZY. 23 George, is Mt. Defiance. Opposite the fort at the southeast, the lake is narrowed down by Mt. In- dependence, which was also fortified while St, Clair held command during the siege. The lake here turns toward the north, the water washing three sides of the promontory. Across the locust- covered flat, just north of the ruins, from a point, near the draw-bridge, lay Ethan Allen's route ia 1775. Whitehall, at the extreme end of the lake, our destination, is about twenty-three miles south of Fort Ticonderoga. Under the skilful guidance or the Pilot, with the Doctor in the engine room, and with Don keeping a sharp lookout ahead and on either side, the swift craft flew through the water, threaded narrow channels, along lovely shores, past bold headlands and high cliffs— a perfect pan- orama of lovely scenery. On the west shore is the State of New York with the Adirondacks looming up in the distance, while on the east shore is Ver- mont. We frequently passed lighthouses and bea- cons, every one of which was familiar to the Pilot, who, while she manipulated the wheel, acted tba part of a charming hostess. Sounds of frequent disturbances, interspersed with singing and laugh- ter, came from the cabin aft; but as for the Pilot and myself we were simply glad that the rest of the party were enjoying themselves. We met several small steam launches that, as they passed, were tossed like corks on the sea kicked up by the Refuge as she bowled along, as craft of lesser size are rocked by a passing Cuii- arder. Each craft was saluted with the syren, to which Don invariably contributed his stentorian voice. 24 MONTREAL 1?Y WAY OF CHAZY. Meantime the stores were broken out and we enjoyed a bountiful repast; and as the ea tables rapidly disappeared the Doctor couldn't seem ro understand why the yacht was not thereby light- ened, why she did not draw less water just as she did when the coal was used from the bunkers. But I trust that he will fathom the mystery, clear- ly, and to his own satisfaction. As we neared Whitehall, we met a long line of canal boats, clumsy looking craft, tied two abreast, in tow of a tug-boat with a funnel as high as the chimney of a sawmill. Curious look- ing, unkempt, unshaven characters, one sees on the canal boats, and the women who live thereon are not exactly examples of feminine lovelinoss. Yet who knows but what some of them may have seen better days? For much of the way below Larrabee's the lake is very narrow, and winds along like a Wver. Rounding a point we steamed up to a wharf at Whitehall, and disembarked. The entire com- p'^ny, the Pilot excepted, went up town with va il- eus objects in view. The Junior Partner and I looked about for objects of interest, which we found principally in the Champlain Canal, whVh leaves the lake at this point and furnishes direct water communication with New York, by way of West Troy and the Hudson river. We watched the interesting process of locking the boats from the level of the lake up to the highest level of tue canal, and it is wonderful how quickly a heavily loaded boat is lifted many feet. The process Is the same as on the Erie Canal, but the locks here are much smaller. MONTREAL WY WAY OF CHAZY. 25 Just as the .Iiinior Partner aud I reached the Refuge on our return, a drenching shower of raiu came on, and I made haste to lower the curtams. One by one, as the rain ceased, the other mem- bers of the party came aboard, including the Doc- tor, who carried a great coil of rope. In view of the fact that I had never noticed anything espe- cially peculiar about the Doctor, and because there was a determined look in his eye as he ap- proached, I was not a little startled for a mo- ment; but we soon learned that the rope was in- tended for the anchor. Steam was soon up, the lines were cast od while I hoisted the flag to the fore-peak, and th;» Refuge swung around and we started on the re- turn trip. Whitehall is a quaint looking town. It lies part- ly in a valley and partly sprawled over a rugged mountain side in a succession of terraces. It waa formerly called by the beautiful and euphonious name of Skeensborough, after Col. Philip Skeen, who accompanied Abercrombie in 1758. Viewed from a little distance, it looks like a deserted cave-dwellers' village. The sun sank in a blaze of glory beyond the Ad- irondacks as we steamed northward, bathing the verdure in purple radiance, and crowning the loft iest peaks with diadems of gold. As the 'ast slanting beams fell upon the water the lake was transformed into a winding ribbon of glorious, luminous colors, and the stretches of water-grass along the shores appeared like purple mists rest- ing upon the divine coloring. Now the keepers of the lights were seen goirg 26 MONTREAL PY WAY OF ClIAZY. out to thorn, ascendiuff tJio towers to the lanterns, and lighting the lamps for the guidance of lake navigators. As the sun settUnl behind the moun- tains and tlu^ twilight deepened the shores seemed enveloped in a blue mist, whieh was fol- lowed by darkness. We made one brief lauding, when all hnuds were glad to go ashore near a pretty abode on the steep bluif. Prom hero on tlie shores were only dimly vis- ible. Lights here and there gleamed among the trees, and the stars shone elear. overhead. There was no sound, save an indistinet murmuring from the shore — save that caused by the quick pulsation of the engine and the gurgle of the water at the bows and stern. rhe other members of the party, aft, sang a few snatches of song, and the Twins were st'll good-natured. Tlie Doctor joined in some of the songs, and. from my posit it>n in the bow beside the IMlot 1 could now and then see his face when the furnace door was swung open to receive shov elfuls of coal. The Pilot guided the yaclit by means of points, heaiilands. bonds and the lights along the way. until, suddenly, she put the helm hard over and st*?ered to what seemed to me to be an impene- trable wall of blackness: but in a few minutes there appeared a rift in the mountains, we glided through the "Narrows" and ahead appeared the liglits on the draw-bridge, which swung open in response to tlie whistle. Then she steered for the liglits on sliore at T.arra bee's, and then the engine was slowed down that the mooring buov niiirht be MONTREAL BY WAY OF CIIAZY. 27 picked up. The Doctor ordered me to look ahead for it, and I soon saw it; but tlie yaclit swung away and I was unable to make fast to it. So the gentleman aft who had had things his own way all day, got into the tender, came around to the bows, where I went over tlio sid(; into tlio ten- der with the line, and as he pulled toward the buoy with the Refuge in tow, I reached the l>aov and made fast. Then all disembarked and were rowed ashore. Jack, nicaiiwliile, rambling around over the sur- face of the water, like a sprite. It was ten o'clock, but thanks to the good soul who remained at the house and had been waicH- Ing for us, a dainty supper was ready when wo arrived. I returned to the Refuge with the Doctor to as- sist him in fastening down the curtains, mali'ng the yacht snug. Later I went up across the field witli .Tack, for some milk, when she nearly ran me off a trestle which spanned a ditch across the path. After that we sat on the veranda and en- joyed the cool air, the ladies talked and the Doc- tor and I smoked. All of a sudden a sti-ange uncanny light of strange eifulgence seemed to envelop us. "In the name of the spirit of the Great Ethon Allen, Doctor," said I, "what's that?'* "Don't know/' replied the Doctor. "Daylight!" gapped the Pilot. "Take your word for it, Pilot," said T, "never saw anything like it before." So we oach and severally said "good moroiug and au revoir," and retired, temporarily. CHAPTER IV. The dew had all evaporated from the Doctor's haystack when we assembled around the break- fast table later that morning; and soon after the morning meal we went up to the big house on the hill, whither we had been invited by our compag- nons de voyage of yesterday. What a fine ujan- sion it was, with its broad, vine-covered veranda. We ascended to the roof from which there was a superb view of the surrounding country and the lake. Then, in the spacious drawing-room there was music, piano and vocal, by the young ladies and the Doctor— a beautiful and fitting finale to our pleasant associations. Even Don entered into the spirit of the occa- sion, but the Doctor told him that his voice was too inflexible, and chased the old dog out. Never was there a pleasanter hour spent, Jt- port. It is navigable to Vergennes. Fort Casstti stood at the mouth of Otter Creek, and bits of tha ruins are now visible. In this creek a portion of the American squadron was fitted out in 1812. which, under Commodore McDonough, defeated the British fleet under Commodore Downie, in September of that year. Four miles north of Es- sex Landing is the mouth of Boquet river, navi- gable about a mile, which was the rendezvous of Burgoyne's flotilla in the advance on Ticonderog»i in 1777; and in 1812 it was entered by the British 32 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. vessels in tlie attack upon Willsborough. Near the middle of the lake near Willsborough Point are the islands known as "The Four Brothers," where occurred the running engagement between Benedict Arnold and Captain Pringle, in 1776. in which the British were the victors. After leaving Essex Landing the boat passdd out into the broad lake, gradually nearing the Vermont shore and approaching Burlington. In- land are the two highest peaks of the Green Mountains, Mt. Mansfield, 4,360 feet high, and Camel's Hump, known to the French as Leon Con chant. The longest stop was made at Burlington, which was interesting to us principally because it is said to be the most beautiful city in Vermont, and because that, near here, is located Fort Ethas) Allen, named after the hero of Ticonderoga. Col. Chester Point reaches half-way across the lake north of Burlington, and further west is Colches- ter Reef, the outermost rock of which is surmount- ed by a tower showing a red light We called at Port Kent, ten miles north of Burlington, and then, six miles beyond passed Valcour Island, near which occurred the first naval battle of the Revolution, October 11, 1776. The hotel wher«^ President McKinley stayed during his sojourn at Lake Champlain, stands on a bold headland which puts out from the west shore just norti* of Valcour Island. "While in what is known as the "brood lake," we had one of the experiences of an ocean voyage —for the paters of the great lake stretched away to the horizon, and no land was in sight ahead. As we neared Plattsburg, our destination, we rin MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 33 into a heavy squall, which raised a sizable sea and covered the lake with white-caps. For a few minutes there was a pouring rain, and then, «» the squall passed over, a gorgeous rainbow hnng over the Vermont shore. Passing in by the break- water with its ligbt house, we landed at Plattsburg, and disembark jd with our wheels, going directly to our hot^^l. Plattsburg is in New York. The first settler In this region was Count Charles de Fredenburgh, a captain of the British army. After the Revohi tion the land was granted, in 1784, to Zephanlati Piatt and others, and incorporated Into the towu of Plattsburg in 1785. Here, in the lake, occurred a great naval battle, in 1814. That evening, after supper, we walked aronnd the old town, and presented letters of introductioii that the Doctor and Jack had kindly given u%, and which were of great service to us In connee- tion with our trip further north; and we enjofe^l the superb twilight as we returned to the hotel. In the morning we mounted our wheels Tin«1 rode out to the barracks, a regular United Stat«« Army post, about a mile south of Plattsburg. where there are some fine buildings and exten sive, well-kept grounds. At the time of our visit troops were being recruited there for service in the Philippines. Returning to the hotel, the luggage was fas- tened upon the bicycles, and mounting, we wheeled away toward the Canadian frontier. CHAPTER V. We had, the evening before, made inquiries con- cerning the best route to talie from Plattsburg to Rouse's Point, and, in each instance, we were ad- vised, even urged to go by way of Chazy. The gentleman to whom we had a letter of introduc- tion said, "You had better go by way of Chazy." A wheelman w^hom we accosted replied, "Be sure to go by way of Chazy, for you will find the best road that way"; and so, all the way, the breeze which blew from the nortliwest seemed to say, "Chazy, Chazy"; and the swaying boughs of the trees sighed, "Cha-zy, Ch-a-z-y." We could not miss the road, for nearly every sign board read— "To Chazy." For the first two miles or so out of Plattsburg we went over a fine macadam road, which afford- ed us some charming glimpses of the lake; then, turning due north we found a good loam road, which allowed us to wheel at a good pace, and not- withstanding that there was a strong wind blow- ing, it came from a point nearly at right angles to our course, so it did not materially impede our progress. The country was not particularly interesting, be- ing rolling, not very profusely wooded and fairly well cultivated. At one house we stopped for water, and there MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 35 being none in tlie house I volunteered to take tlie tin pail and get some from the well. While clam- bering over a pole fence witli the pail of water, one of the poles slipped and down I went, on top of the pail. The result was that I was pretty well soaked, the contents of my pockets were strewn around and the pail was badly bent. We found wild raspberries plentiful and with fine, cool, bracing air we enjoyed the run to the utmost. Many of the houses here are built of logs, whitewashed on the outside. At a little vil- lage late in the forenoon, we stopped for refresh- ments and to renew my supply of smoking tobac- co. The proprietor of the inn congratulated us on stopping there, for he said we would not be able to procure such refreshments as (he could fur- nish us with, at Chazy. At noon we made a short stop at Chazy, which would be an excellent location for a sanitarium for people afflicted with nervousness. There be- ing no hotel visible there, we ran on until we came to a farm-house which looked as though there might be some hospitality to spare, and we were not mistaken, for the woman of the house was most obliging. We were anxious to reach Rouse's Point as early as possible, for we expected to find there a Cana- dian customs agent to clear our wheels. It is the last place on the American side, before crossing the frontier, and an important United States cus- toms post. Five miles from the frontier, at inter- vals of a mile, we passed posts which gave the distance to the line, viz., "5 miles to B. Line," or British line. 36 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Eonse's Point is a place of considerable commer- cial importance, and the most prominent port of entry on the frontier, and fivie railroads centre there. It is at the very end of the lake, and close to the mouth of the Richelieu river, which flows into rhe St. Lawrence. A short distance north is Port Montgomery, an interesting ruin belonging to the United States. Reaching Rouse's Point, we easily found the United States custom house, where we were cour- teously received by the oflScers, who informed us that there were no formalities to go through so far as the American authorities were concerned, also that the Canadian customs agent was away. They advised us to go on to the village of Lacolle, seven miles distant, on the Canadian side, where we w^ould find a Canadian official. So, after get- ting directions, we mounted and went on. At the edge of the village we took closer chances at crossing the railroad track in front of an ap- proaching train than we shall, either of us, care to take again. We soon had to dismount, for we came upon a clay road which had been rendered entirely un- rideable by recent rains; but we were not so crest- fallen over it as we should have been had we not been so near to crossing the frontier, which was an interesting event to us. Presently we reached a junction of the road with another leading to the east, wliere stood an iron post marking the boun- d'ary between the United States and Canada. This, we decided, would be a proper object to photo- graph; so I unshipped the camera, stood the wheels up against the post, and while the Junior MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 37 Partner was taking her place she caught her foot in the Canada line and nearly fell down. Step- jying over to the American side I leveled the cam- era at Her Majesty's Dominion and— fired. The reason why I stood on the American side was that I feared that some wandering Canadian mig-'ht mistake me for another Fenian Raid, for they have not recovered from their scare of thirty years ago, or so, yet. After taking the photograph I copied the inscrip- tions from the four sides of the iron post:— North side:— "Lt.-'Col. I. B. B. Estcourt, H. B. M. Com'ss'r." East side r— "Treaty of Washington." South side:— "Albert Smith, U. S. Com'ss'r." West side:— "Boundary, Aug'st 9th, 1842." Continuing our leisurely walk, we wondered how many miles we were to have of it. The moment we crossed into Canada everything was changed. We were on a vast, fertile, thor- oughly cultivated plain, settled by French farm- ers. The land is divided into small farms, bound- ed by the parishes, just as it was laid out when the French first settled in Canada. These farms are small, of but few acres in ex:tent, and in the form of perfect rectangles. They are separated from one another by rail fences laid in herring- bone fashion, and so numerous are they that, look- ing across the level country, at a distance it looks as though covered with piles of wood. The roads follow these boundaries, turning at right angles, like stairs— up into Canada. We were interested in observing the crops, and we saw but little corn, for corn is not successfully grown so far north. 38 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. But instead of each landholder having a large farm and half-tilling a small part of it, as in New England, each had just what he could thoroughly till; and these French farmers are thrifty, as their buildings and surroundings indicate. After a few miles of walking, to our great joy we reached a loam road and mounting we wheeled rapidly along throug*h the beautiful country until we came in sight of Lacolle. We dismounted at a station on the Canada Atlantic Railway to make inquiries of the agent, and while talking with him a portly, benevolent looking man strolled in and stood near. As I finished conversing with the agent, he faced me and said: "Have you a permit to travel in this country?" I replied that we were, as yet, liable to be grabbed up almost anywhere, but that we were about looking for a customs oflBcer. "I am the customs officer," said he, in an im- pressive manner. "You are the gentileman whom we have sought to seek," said I. "You haf to hunt for me, not I for you," said he. "That's why we have invaded Lacolle," I as- sured him. His office w^as near by, and with him we en- tered the sacred precincts of Her Majesty's guar- dian of the treasury— no. Sir Wilfred Laurier's, for Canada is British by courtesy only, throug-'h the indulgence of the Dominion. The officer, a Frenchman, was very courteous, and the necessary papers were soon filled out and handed to us, we surrendering our membership MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 39 tickets in the League of American Wheelmen un- til the wheels were returned to the United States —thereby avoiding the payment of duty. I mentioned to him that we toad a camera, but he said that was all right; and thanliing him, we mounted and rode to the village; but as for that customs officer, there was no doubt in our minds but that he saw us coming along the road and strolled out to see who we were and what we pro- posed to do. Our minds easier, with the precious documents In our innermost pockets, we wheeled into the vil- lage. We felt the need of something to eat. The station agent told us there were two hotels, one kept by a P'renchman and the other by an Irish- man who married a French woman. As the pure French 'hostelry was nearest, we stopped there. A frousy-headed man answered our knock, and, after allowing that he could get us some tea, he ushered us into a front room. There was a piano there, which had no excuse for standing alone, and while we waited I played, first "Yankee Doo- dle" and then "God Save the Queen." While we sat there one or two men poked their heads into the door and looked at us, and then an old woman, a veritable witch in appearance, pushed her face in. Several times she did it, disappearing as soon as we looked at her. Finally the apparition appeared at another door, and this time I looked at her and made the statement :— "Boo !" The face disappeared instantly. And still we waited. At last, becoming impa- tient, I went out to inquire when the tea would be 40 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. ready. I found a man in the bar-room, and asked him about it. He was very short, saying: "I don't tink you get nothing warm here today!" So I went back to the front room and reported to the Junior Partner, the ultimate outcome being that we left the hotel, mounted our wheels and started for the other tavern. There (God bless the Irish) we found a more hospitable welcome; and the Hibernian bonifaee, and the French lady who assisted him in dispensing hospitality, got us a nice meal, ham, eggs, bread, berries, cake, tea and plenty of ice water. The landlord '^'as all right, and as we took our departure he gave us direc- tions regarding the road, with instructions not to disregard them for anybody; and we found it all to be as he said. We found a good road and a pleasant country to ride through. But another adventure was in store for us. In front of a house we saw a team stand- ing, the occupant being engaged in conversation with a woman. Thinking that he was about to turn into the road, as we passed we rang our bells, simply to warn him of our presence. The moment we passed, he whipped up his horse and came on after us, shouting wildly some words that we could not understand. As we passed a man who was leaning against a fence, tlie Junior Partner asked what was the matter with the man in tbe team.. He replied that he thought he wanted us to stop, or that he wanted to get by. Finally the wild Frenchman in the wagon got so near us, keeping up his wild shouting, that we dismounted and stepped out of the road. When we did so he MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 41 reined up, spoke a sentence or two rapidly, of which the only word we could catch was "parlez!" Now we knew that that meant "speak"; but as we were not conscious of having committed any of- fense w^e did not trouble ourselves as to what he wanted. He turned about and we remounted and rode on; but presently we heard him after us again. Fearing that he would run me down, I again dismounted, and as he passed me, as closely as he dared, he glared at me and muttered "sacre!" I ought to have told him to "sacre him- self," but I saw that he had been drinking, so I held my peace and he drove on, soon turning in at a farm, and we saw him no moi*e. We subse- quently learned that it is not considered courte- ous, in that country, to ring the bells when one wishes to pass, but to speak. So he probably wanted to know why we did not speak— "parlez." A mile or so further on we stopped to photo- graph a French farm-house. The houses have the walls built of stone, as a protection against the severe Canadian winters. We found at home only a lot of children, in charge of a brigiht little girl, whom we could not make understand what we wanted. She thougllit we wis'hed water and brought us some, very warm and in a very dirty vessel. As near as we could learn her mother was at work somewhere in the field. We succeeded in posing the children in a group on the door-steps, and after "pressing the button," we pushed nhead at a rapid rate over a very good loam road, until near sunset, when we noticed a shower coming rapidly up. This set us to thinking, for we were now not far from Montreal and it was not worth 42 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. our while to spend another night on the road; be- sides, we wished to reach Montreal that evening. But we could not reach it awheel, especially in a shower. So, reaching a little French village we dismounted at the station— on the Grand Trunk road— and inquired about a train. The agent was a Frenchman who spoke good English, and he was very courteous. We secured our tickets, checked the wheels, and while we waited the agent made things very pleasant for us. Here we were again reminded that we were in a foreign land; for the sign over the railroad crossing read: —"Traverse du Chemin de Fer" (Railway Cross- ing). We looked about the quaint little village, and watched the people, all conversing in French. There was a curious little chapel there, whose bell w^as hung in a framework of timbers, beside the door: and while we were there a boy came and rung it as though a conflagration was visiting the town. Almost the first impression which comes to one the most forcibly, on entering Upper Canada, is that it is a priest-ridden land. One sees priests trailing around everywhere, and in the country districts they are the only ones w'ho seem to live on the "fat of the land." There is nothing that gets by them in the way of the enjoyments and the sweets of life, I imagine. In this tiny village, so small that we could see, from the station, the country all around, a churCh was being built to cost $25,0001 Just before our train was due a through express came in sight, and the agent warned everybody MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 4$ away from the edge of the platform, where there was clanger of being drawn under the train by the draft which it created. He knew what he was talking about, too, for the train went by at fifty miles an hour, and the breeze carried with it was terrific. The train we were to take had to be flagged, and eTen then we came near losing it. Either the agent replaced the signal too soon, or the engineer did not see it, for the train thundered past the station at full speed. Immediaitely the agent start- ed ranning up the platform after it, gesticulating as only a Frenchman can, and somebody on the train seeing him, and knowing a mistake had been made, stopped the train and it backed down to the station. It was a close call for us, and we came near having to stop at the village all nig;ht, which prospect did not please us. So we flew on toward Montreal, with the ligtit- ning playing all around us. On the train we met two Americans, a gentleman and his son from South Framingham, Massachusetts, who had come up on their wheels as far as Burlington, but find- ing the roads very bad, ihad shipped the bicycles home. Soon we were rumbling over the great Victoria Bridge Vhich spans the St. Lawrence, and in a few moments pulled into the Bonaventure sta- tion, Montreal, where, after running the gauntlet of the pestiferous hackmen, worse than mosqui- toes, we made our way to the Savoy, the most ex- clusive and select hotel in the Canadian metrop- olis. CHAPTER VI. The first thing on the program the next morn- ing, after breakfast, was to secure our wheels and get the baggage, which I had ordered shipped from Burlington in bond, released from the cus- toms authorities. Obtaining the wheels was an easy matter for they were simply checked from a station in Canadian territory. On our way down to the railway station we inquired of a policeman if there were any special regulations applied to bicycle riding in the city, be informing us that it would be necessary to obtain a permit at police headquarters, to which place he directed us. The red tape which we had to contend with wound several times around and through the corridors of the Hotel de Ville (City Hall), and finally led us across the street to another building occupied by city offices. Finding the right place at last, we were told by the officer that he would give us permits for five days, free, after which we would be required to procure regular licenses at a cost of one dollar each, and to carry tags on our wheels. I said that five days would not quite cover it, and so he made It seven; and we sallied forth under the protection of the police, duly licensed to wander about unmuzzled for seven days, with the precious documents next our tiearts. This is how they read:— MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 45 THE CITY OF MONTREAL. No. 1417— Chief of Police Office, Central Station, Notre Dame Street. Pass to "the Junior Partner" For 7 days Bicycle. July 15, 1899. Geo. H. Hughes, Superintendent of Police. The permits are now clierished souvenirs of the expedition. Here we wish to pay a tribute to the police of Montreal. They are nearly all French and they are all gentlemen. They are very cour- teous and most obliging and polite— not too mudi so, as are the black constabulary in Jamaica, West Indies. They are in striking contrast to most of the police in United States cities, -^ho are too im- portant by far, entirely devoid of good manners and apparently unable to grant a civil reply to a civil question. We have a few police, however, w^ho are just the opposite. Next we went to the express office, where we obtained an order on the customs warehouse for our baggage, riding to that place, down near the river-front, where the officials marked it with the magic symbol and received our (directions for send- ing it up to the hotel. We were now free to explore the city. At first one does not find Montreal an easy city to go about. The streets are laid out with fair regularity but the visitor requires some time to locate t!he streets clearly with reference to the points of the compass; but after a little it is simple enougih. 46 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Montreal is a handsome city, clean and well cared for; but, omitting the points of special interest, it soon becomes monotonous. Eegarding the paved streets, they were original- ly intended to be good; and those paved with con- crete and stone blocks, average, probably, as good as the streets of most large cities; but many of the streets of Montreal are paved with wooden blocks that have worn very unevenly, the result being innumerable deep depressions, making it very hard and disagreeable to ride a bicycle over them. On the outskirts, however, where the streets are surfaced with loam or macadam, it is pleasant riding, for the streets, particularly in the best res- idential sections, are very pretty; and the city has a profusion of fine trees. We decided first to go to Mount Royal, which stands a little to the northwest of the city, and it proved to be a pleasant ride. Arriving at Mount Eoyal we found an inclined railway leading to the summit. The fare is eight cents, up and back, in- cluding the wheels, and entering the car we soon found ourselves being drawn up by a cable, the power being located in an engine house at the top. We had been up inclined roads before, but never one so steep as this. Half of it must have been tilted fully forty-five degrees, and as we looked behind and down below us, then up and at the slender cable upon the strength of w^hich so much depended, it caused a sort of "creepy" feeling. At the top we stepped out and went to a pavilion, a sort of observation platform perched on the edge of the precipice, from which we had a superb pan- oramic view of the city, the St. Lawrence stretch- MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 47 ing its broad silver band to the east and west, and the country for miles on all sides. Montreal is the largest city in the Dominion. It is picturesquely situated on an island in the St. Lawrence, at the head of ocean navigation, over six hundred miles inland. It is located in the midst of a great level plain, and ranlis among the most beautiful cities of the continent. It is, pre- eminently, a city of dhurches— gray old sanctu- aries and stately cathedrals that rival the grand- est edifices of Europe in splendor and historic in- terest. From our lofty position we could see, be- yond the St. Lawrence, to the eastward, the fa- mous Beloeil peaks, and to the north the Lauren- tian range, said, by geologists, to be the oldest of the world's mountains. Immediately below lay the city. It is a favorite pastime for cyclists of Montreal to ascend the mountain by the inclined railway, and then coast down on their wheels, round and round, winding to and fro over a splendid road, to the foot. We did not coast the entire distance, but we rode over some of the beautifullj^ shaded roads, that took us a little higher than where we landed, coasting back to the power house of the railway, where we spent another enjoyable hour at the pavilion. The return to the city was made in substantially the same way, the route awheel being varied a lit- tle. Monti'eal is a French city, almost as much so as Paris. Frencli is the language which one hears most spoken in the streets. Nearly all the stores are French, and splendid places they are, many of 48 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. them. Almost all the signs bear French names, but nearly all of them, in Montreal, are duplicated in English. The majority of people met on the street can speak English, but French is the lan- guage of the city. In the stores, public buildings, depots, et cetera, both French and English are spoken; and the conductors of the electric cars and the cab drivers speak both languages. On the street cars, in the trains and on the boats, there are more French papers read than English. Of the total population of Montreal about two-thirds are French. Still, it is a city of the British Em- pire (begging Sir Wilfred Laurier's pardon), and there must be no clashing between the two na- tionalities. And they do get along splendidly. For Instance, if the mayor were to be elected by pop- ular vote the English would be out-voted three to one; so the mayor is elected by acclamation, the understanding being that the mayor shall be French one year and English the next, and so on. In the afternoon we took electric cars for the Lachine Rapids, which we intended to "shoot," we presumed it would be in "cold blood." But, oh, dear! We thought the rapids were very tame. It was a fine ride to Lachine, where we had some time to wait for the boat coming down the river. Here the St. Lawrence is very broad and beauti- fut, and spanned by a superb iron bridge. There were many other tourists beside ourselves, and the moment the gang-plank went ashore there was a frightful scrambling and pushing between those who wanted to come ashore and those -^ho wished to go aboard. As the former outnumbered the latter they carried the day and we were borne LACHINE RAPIDS. MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 49 alons in the crush. Then there was a great rush for the upper deck, but we succeeded in getting good places near the rail, and the boat started. The sail to the Rapids was well worth tlie time required. Presently we could see, a'head, the white-caps of the Rapids, and w^e soon entered the boiling water. We caught our breaths, but at once discovered that it was unnecessary. StiHl it is customary to do so. The water all around and for some distance ahead boiled and bubbled, lashed itself into fairly large waves, wiggled and twisted and gurgled a little. The river, to be liberal, was in a state of mild agitation; that was all. The steamer did not stand on her beam ends, nor dip her scuppers under. Perliaps s'he did not have any scuppers to dip under. We didn't notice them at any rate. The boat simply pitched easily and rolled a little, as we could tell by sighting by the flag-stafC at the bow, at objects on shore. Still it was a very interesting experience and mildly ex- citing, occupying several minutes, during w^hich we made several photographs. During the run down to Montreal we were in- terested in watcliing the shoves, and amused and wearied at the antics of the members of a "per- sonally conducted" party, on board, who made fools of themselves, as usual, spreading all over everything and making observations and asking questions that any intelligent six-year-old child ought to be ashamed of. As we drew up at the wharf at Montreal we no- ticed several ocean steamers lying there, and it seemed strange to think of their being liere, six hundred miles from the ocean, in the far northern interior of the continent. 50 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. That evening we sat for a time in the park, watching the people promenading along the brightly lighted street. Happy people are these French, always bright and interesting. While sitting there we were both pleased and surprised to see an <^d friend, a civil engineer, who had visited us in Boston, and whom we had not seen for about four years— come walking by. Of course, we accosted him, for the pleasure of meeting was mutual. The remainder of the evening we pleasantly spent calling upon some friends, the result being an invitation to walk around Mount Royal in the morning, Sunday— leaving at 10.30 o'clock prompt- ly, no waiting beyond that hour for anybody. At the appointed hour in the morning we were on hand, ready for the trip. We walked first through the beautiful and extensive grounds of McGill College, and a short distance beyond I, my host and a young Englishman also engaged in business in Montreal, left the ladies to pursue their own sweet wills, and street cars, to meet us later at "St. George's on the hill." My friend is an old Alpine climber, and a smooth path where other feet have trod simply ten'ifies him and causes him to dart away by some more difficult and inaccessible route. His tramps among the Alps have stood him in good stead, but I followed him a good second, along steep paths embowered in trees and bushes, up steep inclines and over high ledges and boulders— Wherever one could be found. It was highly en- joyable, and my friend is a model companion on an outing. So we walked over and around the MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 51 mountain, finally bringing up at the St. George's Club, the members of wihidh include prominent business men. There we were met by the ladies. Shaggy, obedient little "Jip" was there, too; and sitting on the broad, cool verandah, which com- mands a superb view, we imbibed cooling bever- ages before returning to the city, where we were further entertained, at dinner, by our friends, who are delightful and accomplished hosts. ^ The remainder of the afternoon we spent visit- ing some of the famous churches and feasting our eyes upon their splendid interiors. Among them were St. James, modeled after St. Peter's, at Rome; and the Notre Dame Cathedral, famous the world over for its grand proportions, its magnifi- cent interior decorations and the priceless treas- ures that it contains. Its bell is said to be among the largest in the world. We sat for a time watch- ing the service, and then visited Bonsecours Church, near the market by the same name, where the hanging lamps are all in the form of models of ships and steamers, and where the priest was addressing the congregation in vigorous French. This ended our day's jaunting— and we returned to the hotel to make ready for our departure for Quebec, the following morning. CHAPTER VII. The next morning we were up early, and, with the wheels, luggage and camera thereon, we start- ed for the steamer which left for Quebec at 9 o'clock, calling on the way at the post-office. Arriving at the wharf, after checking the wheels, for which we paid twenty-five cents each, we went aboard the "Caspian," which was taking on coal, which was brought along in dump carts that were driven on board. The "Caspian" is a good sized side-wheel steamer, and one of the pleasantest craft that we ever voyaged in. She has a large, well furnished and well lighted sa- loon, good staterooms, attractive dining saloon and a roomy deck. There was a fair number of first-class passengers beside ourselves, mostly Ca- nadians, with a sprinkling of American tourists (thanks be to Allah, none "personally conducted"), and one priest from Kentucky who was making a pilgrimage to Ste. Anne de Beaupre to be cured of deafness. What a broad, splendid waterway the St. Law- rence is, stretcihing away to the northeast with scarcely a curve or bend. The "Caspian" proved to be capable of very good speed, and she belched forth a continuous volume of black smoke from her firanel, indicating soft coal below and lots of it It was a perfect day, with scarcely a cloud vis- ible save on the far northern horizon, and the air MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 63 was cool and bracing. The scenes along botli ^ores were interesting to us, because they were entirely new. The country for nearly the entire distance of one hundred and eighty miles is al- most flat, excepting here and there steep bluffs along the river banks. Here and there, as we steamed down the broad river, little hamlets ap- peared, each with its tall spired church; and very pretty they looked against the vivid green back- ground. Here and there, wtiere the river broad- ened, there were extensive marshes, some of them almost entirely covered with vivid crimson flow- ers. We passed several craft, coming up the river, curious, clumsy hulls with square bows, loaded with wood and barely moving, each under a sin- gle great square sail which looked not unlike a lateen sail, on a mast stepped well forward. Evi- dently they could only run before the wind; at least, they would have difficulty in luffing and I should like to witness the operation— from the bank,— for one of these curious craft would surely require the whole width of the river. The channel is marked with frequent buoys, for we were told that the channel is constantly shift- ing and has to be carefully watched and dredged; and we passed several dredges at work. The first landing was at Sorel, a small place on the rig'ht bank, at the confluence of the Ridhelieu and the St. Lawrence: and it is a noteworthy fact that, in a forty or fifty foot steam launch, a voy- age can be made from the 'St. Lawrence and the Atlantic Ocean at New York, by way of the Rich- elieu, Lake Champlain, the Champlain Canal and 54 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. the Hudson River. This is frequently done by canal boats. During the few minutes that the steamer lay at Sorel, we had a good chance to observe the p*eople, many of whom were at the wharf, and they were well appearing, vivacious people, especially the girls, some of whom were very pretty. Soon after leaving Sorel we entered Lake St. Peter, which is simply a very broad place in the river; and such is its expanse that, looking directly ahead, the eye meets the horizon, just as it would at sea; though, on either side, the shores can, of course, be seen. The dinner gong sounded soon after entering the lake, and we forthwith repaired to the dining- room. At our table there was a waiter whose English was so limited that he couldn't under- stand whether we wanted pommes de terre or "oeufs" on toast. He appealed to the head waiter, who relieved him and sent an Englisih speaking Frenchman to our table. We sat by a wide, open window, from which we could look out at the shore; which reminded me of a voyage I once took along the south coast of Jamaica, only I could not quite see the shore of South America, although it was not very far away. After dinner we inspected the engine rooms, as we always do, and shades of Fulton, of all the anticiuated pieces of mechanism. It was built some fifty years ago; but, while ruddly construct- ed and covered with rust, it forced the boat through the water without a tremor. On this deck were the passengers below first- class, at which no first-class passenger ought to complain. MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. 5$ At the lower end ol' Lake St. Peter another land- ing was made, at Three Rivers, a place of consid- erable size, built along the river-bank at the foot of the bluff. Three Rivers is an important station of the Canadian Pacific Railway, which runs along the left bank of the river. Half the population gathered at the landing, including several priests and poiicemen, the occasion being graced by the presence of the C'hief of Police, as we observed by the letters on his chapeau. He looked like a Cos- sack in his quaint uniform, over the front of which bushy whiskers trailed like the water pouring down over the Falls of Montmorency. The Junior Partner tried to secure a photograph of this guar- dian of the peace, but the moment s(he leveled the camera toward the wharf half of the people there began to edge along so as to be included in the view, with tihe result that she was compelled to abandon the attempt. While we were on Lake St. Peter the steamer ran into a squall, when the rain fell so heavily that the shores were obscured from view and every- body was driven inside; and it did not entirely cease raining until we were nearly up to Three Rivers. As we neared Quebec the level country was left behind and the bluffs were higher and steeper, with hills beyond. Our journey was made still more pleasant by the attention of Captain Craig, who chatted with us concerning points on the river and related inci- dents in his active and interesting career. Cap- tain Craig is very popular with the traveling pub- lic, because he is not only pleasant and agreeable himself, but he is constantly trying to add to the enjoyment of his passengers. 56 MONTREAL BY WAY OF CHAZY. Interest in the voyage subsided as we neared Quebec, and presently we saw, outlined against the sky, on the left, the frowning Citadel, situated at the top of a great rock which rises, sheer, hun- dreds of feet above the water, like Gibraltar, which, in times past, rendered it impregnable. Passing under the shadow of the famous fortress, old Quebec, ancient and hoary, was before us, the "Lower Town" bunched at the water's edge, with the "Upper Town" above, its lower part dim in the shadows of the tT\ilig'ht, and with the upper part, crowning the hill, standing out sharply in a serrat- ed line against the glowing sky. Disembarking we made our way through the babol of carriage drivers until we found a vehicle bearing the name of the hotel to w'hich we were going; and, in company with three bright young ladies from St. Paul, Minnesota, we rumbled away to the "Upper Town," zigzagging to and fro up the steep, narrow streets, quaint and curious, until the panting horses stopped in front of the hotel. y'?!f