k General Taylor, from a Drawing by the celebrated French artist Auguste Chatillon, of New Orleans. ' THE SCOUTING EXPEDITIONS OF McCULLOCH'S TEXAS RANGERS; OR, THE SUK^IER AND FALL CAMPAIGN OF THE ARMY OF THE UNITED STATES IN MEXICO-1846; INCLUDIXG 0kinmsl)C3 witl) tl)e illeirican0, AND AX ACCURATE DETAIL OF THE STOEMING OF MONTEREY; ALSO, THE DARING SCOUTS AT BUENA VISTA; TOGETHER WITH AXECDOTES, INCIDENTS, DESCRIPTIONS OF COUNTRY, AND SKETCHES OF THE LIVES OF THE CELEBRATED PARTISAN CHIEFS, HAYS, McCULLOCH, AND WALKER. BV SAMUEL C. REID, JR. I.ATB OF THE TEXAS HANGERS AND MEMBER OF THE BAR OF tOVISrASA. PHILADELPHL\ : BER 1847. Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1S47, bt G.B.ZIEBER& Co., nr THE Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District op Pennstlvattia. STEREOTTFED by L. JOHNSON AN» CO. PHILADELPHIA. PRINTED BY KING AND BAIRD. t MAJOK-GENERAL Z. TAYLOR, COMMANDING THE AHMT OF THE UNITED STATES IN MEXICO. Dear General — Permit a soldier, who has had the honour of serving under I your command throughout some of the most stirring scenes of the war with Mexico, to dedicate to you the following pages — heing simply the journal of an expedition remarkable for many events worthy of being j preserved for the future. I The tribute is oifered, not only as a token of the high regard and esteem in which you were held by the men and officers under your command, whose friend and leader you were ; and of the high sense I universally entertained for your military talents, for which you are so J justly distinguished ; but also for the kind courtesies received at your hands while in the service of our common country. With great respect, I have the honour to be Your ob't servant, SAM'L C. REID, Jr. Nbw Orleans, Feb. 22, 1847. I PREFACE. The author of the following pages, participating in the enthusiastic feeling that prevailed on the reception of the news from Mexico of the battles of " Palo Alto" and " Resaca de la Palma," was induced to join the volunteers called into service, and left New Orleans as adjutant of one of the regi- ments of Louisiana volunteers. Soon after his arrival at Brazos St. Jago, becoming dissatis- fied with his position, and feeling confident that his regiment would be kept in the rear to garrison the different posts, he resigned his rank, and proceeded to Matamoras, where he joined the company of Texas Rangers, commanded by Capt. Benjamin McCulloch, which was detached from Col. Hays's regiment, and kept for scouting service by General Taylor. Long habituated to writing a journal, the author kept up his notes w^hile in Mexico, which he has been induced to give to the public, at the solicitation of his friends, and has thought that their presentation would prove most acceptable in their original form. It is, then, but a simple journal of events, that he offers to the public as they occurred, from the em- barkation of his regiment, including the storming of Monterey, up to the time of his return to New Orleans, with an account of the celebrated scouts of McCulloch at Buena Vista. We have endeavoured to give a fair and faithful account of b PREFACE. the incidents herein related, and to do justice to those who participated in them ; if, however, some statements may seem to have been given with inaccuracy, it must be recollected that men do not see, think, speak, or act alike, and there- fore diversity not only of opinion will exist, but even dif- ferent constructions will be given ; nay, some events may be unknown, while others are overlooked ; to those, then, who may seem to have been neglected, we tender this as our apology. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGB Departure for the Seat of War — Incidents of the passage — Arrival at the Brazos St. Jago — Description of the Island, &c., and Point Isabel — Anecdotes — The false Alarm 11 CHAPTER ir. Camp at Brazos St. Jago — Scenes and Incidents — Capture of a Vessel with Contra- band Goods — The Trial and Punishment of the Oflfenders — The Regiment moves to Burita — Arrival at the Rio Grande — Occurrences of the Marcli — Wreck of the Steamer Frontier — Description of Burita 17 CHAPTER HI. Camp of the 5th I^ouisiana Regiment — Departure for Matamoras — Incidents of the Road — Description of Matamoras, &c. — Capt. iVIcCulloch — Camp of the Regu- lars — Scenes and Anecdotes — The Camp of the Rangers — Tlie Fourth of July — Incidents — The old French Baker — His Garden — A Wedding — The Fan- dango 21 CHAPTER IV. Departure for Reynoso on the Steamer "J. E. Roberts" — The Rio Grande and its Banks — Our Arrival and Departure — The Steamer aground — Lieut. McMullen's Story — Ride to Reynoso — Description of the Town — An Incident — We proceed to Comargo — The river San Juan — Clay Davis's Place — Arrival at Comargo — Description of its Ruins — The Rangers' Camp, &c. — A Sunday at Church — The Mexican Girls — Their Dress and Customs 28 CHAPTER V. News of the War reaches Texas — Formation of Capt. McCulloch's Company of Ranger.s — March to Corpus Christi — The Ford of the I-aguna del Madre — Padre's Island — Uncle Tilley — The Carankawa Indians — Arrival at Point Isabel — March to Matamoras — Scout towards Linares — Incidents — Capture of the Mexican Mail — Arrival at Reynoso 36 CHAPTER VI. Camp at Reynoso — Scenes and Incidents — An Express leaves for Matamoras — Lieut. McMulIen left in Command — Attempt to capture Canales at a Fandango — The Festival of St. Juan— The Chicken Race— Celebration of the Fourth of July — Pursuit of a Band of Robbers — The Arrival of the remainder of the Company at Reynoso— Our March to Comargo — Bill Dean's Story— Arrival at Comargo 52 r CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAGB The Indian Scout— The Comanches— News of their Depredations— Ordered to follow their Trail— The swimming of the Rio Grande— Attempt to rescue a Drowning Man— a Ranger playing 'Possum— The city of Rio Grande— Prickly Pears— The Indian Trail— The Night Alarm— Strange Concert— The Deserted Ranches- The Elephant in the Chaparral— Re-crossing of the River— Arrival at Mier — Bathing Scene— The Battle Ground— Return to Comargo 66 1 CHAPTER VIII. The Hospital of the Sick— Soldiers' Anecdotes— Orders for our March— Scout to China— The Sugar Rancho— The strange Guide— An extraordinary Vision— The March at Night— Rancho El Toro— The Arm-Chair Church— Preparations for a Fight— llie false Alarm— Our entrance into China— Retreat of Col. Segum and his Men — The vain Pursuit '5 CHAPTER IX. Camp at China — The School-house— Our return March— A Family up a Tree— We proceed to Passa Sacate — Trinadad Alderet — Encampment in the Prairie — McCulloch's Story of his father's Compass — Camp on the San Juan — How to keep dry— Rancho Grande— The old Texian's true Story— Our return to Co- margo •-• 63 CHAPTER X. Camp at Comargo — Scout to Punta Aguda— Lake Guardado— The Chase and the Death — Encampment near Mier — Captain Duncan in command — ''Jack Everitt" — The Fandango at Punta Aguda — The Search for Canales and Col. Rameres — The attempted Escape of a Mexican Officer — Corporal Bawk and the Mexican Ladies— The Dance— The midnight March CHAPTER XI. Scout to Serralvo — Description of the Serralvo Mountains, and the Town— Oar Reception — Encampment on the Rio Alamo — Our departure for Agua licjos — Encampment— Return— Description of the place— The Alcalde— Paso Isia— The crossing— The Story of "Strabismus Bill" — Arrival at Mier— Return to Co- margo — The Grand Review CHAPTER Xn. Camp at Comargo— Movement of the Army— Guerrero— A Mexican Funeral— San Fernando— Col. Jack Hays— His Character- The Battles of Pierdenales and the Enchanted Rock— Anecdote— Departure for Serralvo— Camp at Mier— The Lipan Chief, " Flacco" — Camp at Punta Aguda — Arrival at Serralvo — Reconnoissance to Carrisito— Scout to Papagayo— Incidents— Our Return to Serralvo 103 CHAPTER XIII. Camp at Serralvo— Gen. Ampudia's Proclamation— Its Effect— The Mexican Feeling— The Alcalde's Fandango — Scenes and Incidents at Punta Aguda— The Third Brigade on the qui v/ie- Arrival of Gen. Taylor and First and Third Divisions— Orders for the March of the Army— Departure of the Advance — Arrival at Papagayo— Discovery of the Enemy— The expected Attack— Scout to Ramos— Skirmish with the Mexican Cavalry— The Chase and Retreat— Our Return to Camp— Arrival of Gen. Taylor and the First Division— Camp Scene- Movements of the Second Division, &c. 119 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. Description of Ramos— The Wounded Mexican— The Charity and Benevolence of the Texas Rangers— Arrival at Marin— Evacuation of the Town by the Mexican Troops — Description of the Country, and Marin — A Mexican Dinner — The Great Western — Scenes and Incidents — An Express from the Spanisli Consul — Camp at Marin — Capture of a Spy — Ampudia's Letter and Circular — Scout to Pescaria Chica— Incidents— Zacatycas—Agua Frio— Arrival at San Francisco— The whole Army Encamped — Arrival of tJen. Henderson with the Texas Rangers — Scenes and Preparations — March of the Army towards Monterey — Arrival before the Fortifications of the City — View of the Valley of Monterey— Demonstration by the Mexican Cavalry — The Opening of the Enemy's Batteries — The Reconnoissance Camp at Walnut Springs — The Night Expedition — Prisoners — Scene at the Guard Fires 132 CHAPTER XV. Description of the Fortifications at Monterey — General Taylor's Military Talent — His Character— Gen. Worth— Enumeration of his Division— Anecdote of Gen. Taylor— The March and Detour of the Second Division— The Movement dis- covered by the Enemy — Diversion made by the First and Third Divisions Arrival of the Second Division at the Pescaria Grande Road— The Reconnois- sance — The Ambuscade — Heroic Act of Lieut. McMullen — Camp at the Jacales — The Attack on Pigs and Poultry— The Surprise and Attack by the Mexican Cavalry — Their Repulse with Loss — Incidents of the Night — Our dreary Situa- tion — The superiority of the Enemy's Forces and Defences 149 CHAPTER XVI. Tlie First Day of the Battle— Discovery of the Enemy— The Cavalry Charge — Death of Lieut. Col. N4jera— The enemy's Defeat— Incidents of the Charge — Anecdote of a Ranger— An Irish Teamster— Military skill of Gen. Taylor— The First and Third Divisions — Gen. Worth gains the Saltillo road— Maj. Brown occupies the Mill at St. Catarina— The critical position of Gen. Worth— His Mili- tary Bearing— The Storming of Federation Hill and Fort Soldada— The Retreat of the Enemy— Lieut. Pitcher's Chalk Marks— Noble act of Lieut. Geo. Deas — A wild Scene— A touching Sight— Generalship of Worth— The Close of the Day — Suffering of the Troops— A Storm at Night — Mexican Hospitality— Description of a Mezican Woman — Preparations for the Morrow 156 CHAPTER XVIL Operations of the 2lst of September on the Eastern side of Monterey — Advance of the First and Third Divisions from Camp— The Reconnoissance of Major Mans- field—Col. Garland moves towards the City with the 1st and Gd Infantry— The Attack— Desperate Conflict— The Repulse— Fall of Lear, Barbour, Field. Williams, and Irwin — Advance of Quitman's and Hamer's Brigades — The Baltimore Bat- talion — Death of Watson, R. H. Graham, Hoskins, and Woods — Lieut. Colonel McClung's Charge— The Taking of Fort Teneria— Col. Davis advances to charge Fort El Diablo — The Ohio Regiment enters the Streets— Gallantry of the Troops Gen. Butler wounded — Col. Garland advances to the T6te-de-Pont — His Position gallantly maintained— Fall of Morris and Hazlitt— Repulse of the Enemy's Cavalry by Bragg and Ridgely— Gen. Butler's Division returns to Camp— Gen. Twiggs' Division occupies the Captured Forts— Gen. Taylor— The Night— Scene of the Battle-field i CHAPTER XVIII. The Second Day— Description of Independence Hill— The Storming of the Height— The Fall of Gillespie and Thomas— The 7th Infantry— Capt. Miles' Diversion- Sortie by the Enemy from the Bishop's Palace— The 5th Infantry— Lieut Roland's Howitzer— Capt. Vinton's Ruse— The Charge of the Enemy from the Bishop's 10 CONTENTS. Palace— Their Defeat— The Charge of our Troops— The Taking of the Palace- Duncan's Battery — Gen. Worth's Bulletins — The Close of the Day — Captain Walker— Incidents of his Life 181 CHAPTER XIX. Gen. Taylor's Forces on the East Side — The Morning of the 22d — Gen. Henderson, and Woods' Rangers — Twiggs' Division, relieved by Butler's — Abandonment of Fort El Diablo by the Mexicans— The Third Day— The 5th Infantry— Major Brown's Command — Beconnoissance by Lieut. Meade and Capt. McCuUoch — Gen. Worth enters the City with his Division — Arrival of Major Munroe with the Mortar — The Second Division reaches the Plaza de Came — The Street Fight — The Bomb-Shells at Night — Gen. Taylor's Camp — Operations of the First and Third Divisions on the 23d — Gen. Quitman and Woods' Rangers enter the City — Bragg's Battery— A flag with a Letter from the Governor reaches Gen. Taylor- Position of the Army on the 23d 189 CHAPTER XX. The Morning of the 24th — Continuation of the Battle — Lieut. Farrelly — Lieut Ewd. Deas— Flag from Ampudia, with Letter to Gen. Taylor— Suspension of Hostili- ties — Surrender of the City — Disappointment of the Texians — The Capitulation- Letter of Col. Davis — Terms of Ceremony of the Surrender — Evacuation of the City — Visit to Gen. Ampudia — His Address and Pronunciamento — Ampudia's Account of the Battle 200 CHAPTER XXL The Morning of the 26th— Description of the City of Monterey— SeSor Gaja— The School— Sciior Serrano's House— Anecdote— The Cathedra! — The Valley of Monterey — Mr. Poinsett's Description of the Country from Monterey to Tampico — The Ladies of Monterey— ^noraCueller and her Daughter— A Romantic Story — The City at Night— Riley, the Deserter— Orders of Taylor and Worth— The Pros- pect of Peace — Texas Rangers Disbanded— Description of the Bishop's Palace — The Wounded Mexicans— View from the Palace— Mass at the Cathedral— Death of Father Rey— Preparations to leave for Comargo 216 CHAPTER XXH. Departure for Comargo — Marin — Arrival at Serralvo — Incidents of Travel — Mexican Customs — A Camp Scene — Arrival at Punta Agnda — Alarming Ren- counter — Arrival at Mier — Senor Don Domingo and his Daughters — Scene at Mier — Arrival at Guardado — A Mexican Dinner — Arrival at Matamoras— Change in the Place — Arrival at the Brazos — Departure for New Orleans — We put into Galveston — Description of the City — Arrival at New Orleans — McCulloch's Return home — Incidents of the Road — The Stampede — Scout to Rancho Encarnacion — Charge on the Enemy's Picket — The Return — The Second Scout — Daring Feat — Discovery of Santa Anna's Army— McCulloch's Escape from the Camp of the Enemy — Arrival at Agua Nueva— The Battle of Buena Vista — The Conclusion- • 227 LISTS OF THE KILLED AND WOUNDED, &c- McCULLOCH'S TEXAS RANGERS. CHAPTER I. Departure for the Seat of War — Incidents of the Passage — Arrival at the Brazos St. Jago — Description of the Island, &,c., and Point Isabel — Anec- dotes — The false Alarm. On the morning of the 4th of June, 1846, our regiment, the 0th Louisiana Volunteers, was complete and fully equipped, having been mustered into the service of the United States, and were patiently waiting at the barracks, below the city of New Orleans, for transportation. As is always the case preparatory to the em- barkation of either sailors or soldiers, every thing was in the highest state of confusion and excitement. Orders had been issued for the departure of our regiment on the next morning at dayhght, and the steamer James L. Day was ready at the land- ing to receive us. Notwithstanding the inclemency of the wea- ther, the barracks had been thronged with the friends and rela- tives of the officers and soldiers, and amid the final adieus and sad farewells, there was many a strict injunction and ardent promise made and given among tlie parting friends. It was our last night ashore, and every one seemed determined to make the most of it. There were any quantity of malcontents in the guard-house — and many were the ingenious plots, plans, and excuses made up among the men, for the purpose of getting leave to go up town ; and in case of failure many of them took French leave, by scaling the walls of the barracks. The night was extremely propitious for those who chose this mode of procedure, for a very heavy rain had set in during the early part of the evening, and continued to fall in torrents throughout the night. At daylight on the 5th, we commenced to embark the troops, and on examining the Tnorning report, we found a goodly number marked absent without leave ; an officer was despatched to town after the delinquents, who succeeded in getting all on board, with a few exceptions. At 11, a. m., we got underweigh, the steamer taking a turn up the river, and rounding most beautifully, with colours flying, and the band playing a lively air; we fired a salute 11 12 SUNRISE ON THE OCEAN. from a long brass piece, which had been put on board for the pro- tection of the vessel, and the sun coming out in all its wonted splendour as we passed the barracks, we returned the hearty- cheer which had saluted us from our friends on shore. Pursuing our course as we swiftly glided over the turbid waters of the Mis- sissippi, which was soon to lead us to the blue waves of Mexico, we saw, as it were, our homes receding far in the distance from us, and to many it was a last and eternal farewell. At 7, p. m., we crossed the bar, and discharged our pilot at the Balize. As the sun sank beneath the blue waves, the men, too, seemed to settle doAvn in a quiet contentment, and if any regretted his pa- triotic enthusiasm, which had caused him to enlist, it was now too late, for the land we had left was then but as a dim cloud in the distance. It was a most lovely night. The sea was as smooth as a mirror, and the moon never looked more sweet and fascinating with her silvery beams dancing on the rippling waters, caused by the motion of our boat, which was a most delightful one, and sat on the waves as graceful as a swan. At midnight we retired, many of the officers preferring a pallet spread on deck, to a state- room in the cabin. We had often thought what must have been the glorious splen- dours of the first breaking in of light upon the world, but never did we fully realize the conception, until the morning of the (ith. The breaking of day at sea is certainly one of nature's grandest spectacles. It was just at gray dawn, when the last lingering stars of heaven were fading from sight, caused by the gradual risino^ of the sun, though still far beloAV the horizon, that the edge of the blue eastern sky became beautifully tinged with a most delicate roseate hue, gradually spreading and deepening into ver- milion ; the light fleecy clouds assumed a softer and a richer glow,, melting b}'- degrees as the sun approached nearer the surface, into a pale golden tinge, which extended itself along the encircling edge of the sky, now mellowing into a brighter golden light, as the day-god rose in all his gorgeous briUiancy, casting a veil over the soft features of the queen of night, which still rode high in mid- heaven. At 8, A. M., the death of one of the men was reported, and pre- parations were made for a burial at sea. The poor fellow was sewed up in his blanket, which served as his winding sheet ; and beinor ballasted at the feet with round shot for the purpose of sink- ino; him, he was placed on a plank which was laid half-way across tlie rail of the ship, and as his companions stood around, prayers were read, and the body launched into the deep. This cast a gloom over the men, who had become duly sobered, and began to understand their duties and positions. In the afternoon we had BRAZOS ST. JAGO. 13 fresh breezes with hght squalls of rain. At night the officers amused themselves with reading and playing cards. Sunday, the 7th, was a dehghtful day, though very hot, as the thermometer was near 90°. We had a fine bath-house on board, and the sea-bathing, in the shape of shower-baths, was charming. Our captain caught several bonitas and dolphins, which were a o-reat curiosity to those who had never seen these finny tribes of the deep before. As is always the case at sea, or travdfling in any way, but more especially on shipboard, after the first excite- ment wears off a general quiet succeeds — each one seems wrapped in his own thoughts, and, consequently, a degree of monotony pre- vails. At daylight on the next day, we made the land, which was very low and fiat, and running down the coast until we came to the anchorage ground, off the Brazos, we lay-to for a pilot. The scene which here presented itself was both novel and exciting — innumerable vessels lay outside of the Brazos, whose shallow inlet did not permit them to go over the bar, and were being lightened of their cargoes by small steamers. To the left lay the island of Brazos St. Jago, or " the arms of St. James," with its httle hil- locks of sand, which are for ever shifting and changing by the tremendous gales of wind which sweep over the island, while to the right lay a long narrow bar of sand, called St. Padre's island, which takes its name from the fact that the padre, or priest of Matamoras, once owned a large rancho on this island, some thirty miles from Point Isabel, which contained some 30,000 head of, cattle, but which was destroyed by the Texians during their struggle for independence, and the cattle driven off to Corpus Christi. Between these two islands hes a very narrow passage, or inlet, leading into a beautiful bay which washes the high bluffs of Point Isabel. From the anchorage outside, is plainly visible the masts of the smaller craft within. The passage over the bar and through the inlet is rendered very dangerous from a tremendous surf and ground swell, which rolls in from the sea. A pilot soon came off to us, and in a little while we were in the midst of the breakers and rollers. Another vessel was coming out at the time, and while nearing each other, as each rose and fell with the sea, a collision seemed inevitable ; but we passed harmlessly by, and soon were inside of the bay, which was smooth as a lake. We landed on the shore of Brazos Island, and commenced disembarking the troops, and making pre- parations for our encampment. We pitched our tents about a mile from the landing towards the sea, near the sand-hills, beyond which there lies one of the most beautiful beaches we ever saw. The island is about six miles long. On the south-east part of the 14 POINT ISABEL. island, there are a few miserable huts, inhabited by a Mexican family, "who are supported by a large flock of goats, and trading with the shipping, &c. There were once two tolerably good ponds of fresh water on the island, but they have become stag- nant and dry. The only means of obtaining water there, was by digging wells about three feet deep in the sand, but it was brack- ish and unwholesome ; the wells dug nearest the sea-shore, how- ever, p^ved the best. There was formerly a small village on this island, which was destroyed by a hurricane ; and the sea making a complete breach over it, the inhabitants perished with it. There are several legends told, hoAV that, many years ago, the island was the rendezvous of a gang of pirates, who, when pur- sued, invariably made their escape through this dangerous inlet, and that they frequently enticed vessels ashore, which had drifted from their course, by means of false lights. At the head of the island, or the north-west part of it, there is another arm of the sea, which separates it from the mainland, running around into the bay, called the Boca Chica, or small mouth. It is about fifty yards wide, and is generally fordable, though not deep enough for vessels of even light draught. This inlet, with that of the other at the foot of the island, forms " the arms of St. James," from which the island takes its name. After the morning parade, on the day following, we went, with several other officers of our regiment who had obtained leave, to visit Point Isabel, which is about three miles distant from the island. For this purpose Ave chartered a neat sail-boat, and, with a fine breeze, we soon made the Point, the approach to which, however, is very shoal. The bluff here is about fifteen or twenty feet high ; and the first thing Avhich strikes one is the command- ing position, overlooking the bay and harbour, and the inclined plane, receding towards the interior, giving you a full view of the country. The buildings on the Point are composed of large, board warehouses, for the use of the commissary and quartermas- ter's department, hospitals for the sick, the post-office, and quar- ters for the officers. In one of the warehouses, we saw the cap- tured property of the Mexicans, taken at the celebrated battles of the 8th and 9th of May, consisting of pack-saddles, scopets, lances, blankets, and camp utensils. There were no Mexican houses here, having been burnt by the Mexicans when Gen. Taylor first appeared with his forces near this place. Here we met many old friends. On calling on the brave and lamented Capt. Page, who recognised us at once, he motioned us to hand him a slate on the table, and, after some conversation, he wrote on it that " it was a dear-bought honour, and that he should be content if he ever reached home." Our friends pressing us TEXIAN WIT. 15 to Stay with them, we made a « night of it ;" and as they had all served in the late battles, many were the incidents and anecdotes with which Ave were entertained. Lieut. H., of the dragoons, who was the soul of the squad, related the following : — A Texas Ranger, under Walker, who had gone home after the fight, was relating the exploits of his commander, and was describing the battles, &c., to a crowd of friends, when a young lad, who had been an attentive listener, his face brightening up with enthusiasm, at the glowing descriptions of the narrator, slapping his hand upon his thigh, cried out, " D — n me if I don't go to the wars." Attracted by this speech, the Texian turned round to see from whom it had emanated, and discovering the author of it to be a young delicate-looking lad, said to him, with a significant look — " Fou go to the wars ! — hum — you had better stay at home !" "Yes, me — why not tne?''^ cried the lad, indignantly drawing himself up to his full height. " Why, thar is a heap to do out thar, youngster," said the Texian, " which you mought not be able to do, that's all." "And what have you done ?" said the boy, making up to the Texian, who stood full six feet in stature. The crowd now gathered around, anxiously leaning forward to catch the reply of the Texian, for the boy's question was thought a poser. "What have /done?" said the Texian, repeating the question several times, and laying much stress upon the pronoun I, at the same time looking much confused for a reply. " What have / done ?— Why," said he, " I have done more than you will ever do, if you go." "And what is that?'''' said the still indig- nant lad. "Why, Vve got back safe!''^ said the Texian, with a loud laugh of triumph, in which the crowd joined. At this time Point Isabel was the scene of great activity. Sup- plies were daily being received, and wagon trains were daily de- parting with an escort of dragoons for Matamoras. What added to the singularity of the bustling scene, was the gangs of piones, or Mexican serfs, who were employed in loading teams, and bringing stores, &c.,from the landing to the warehouses. Several of these poor devils v^ere pointed out to us as having been engaged in the late battles ; and there still could be seen, from their manner, a lurking disposition for revenge. Our flag flaunted on the breeze from the highest eminence, while the cannon which was placed around Fort Polk, commanding the bay and the plain, looked very significant. On the afternoon of the 11th instant, on returning to camp, it was reported that a considerable force of the enemy's cavalry had been discovered on the main land near the Boca Chica. The report was communicated to Lieut. Doubleday, of the 1st artillery, who was in the command of a small detachment of United States soldiers on the island, and also to the colonel of the Kentucky 16 A FALSE ALARM. Legion, which had lately arrived. Lieut. D. immediately des- patched some five or six of his men towards the Boca Chica as a picket-guard, for the purpose of preventing a surprise, and to reconnoitre. In the mean time, all was hustle, excitement, and commotion in camp ; cartridges Avere served out to the men, and orders issued for captains of companies to have their men ready at a moment's warning — the signal of w4iich was to be the heat- ing of the long roll of the drum. The boys were in a glorious humour, and every one rejoiced that the prospect of a fight was so near at hand. The guard was doubled, and a chain of senti- nels posted along the hillocks that lined the sea-shore. The Kentucky Legion also posted a strong picket-guard about two miles from camp, and every preparation was made to give the enemy a warm reception. All continued quiet until 9, p. M., when a regular came running into our camp with the news that the bugles of the enemy had been heard sounding the attack, and that they were already approaching. The regular, however, before being permitted to pass into our hnes, was first hailed by an Irish sentinel, who was posted on one of the hillocks, and ordered to stand and give the countersign. Upon telling his story, however, to the sentinel, Pat asked him how many the picket-guard consisted of; and being told about fifty — " Blood and murder !" cried Pat, "and why the divil didn't you stay and drive 'em back ?" " But," said the regular, " I was ordered to in- form your colonel of the fact." " In wid ye, then," cried Pat, "and see that ye's hurry out with the countersign after ye's.*' On the colonel being informed of the news, the long roll was beat, and the regiment formed in line of battle. The men were kept under arms for three or four hours, but no farther information of the enemy coming in, they were dismissed to their quarters. The false alarm proceeded from some of our men, who had been out hunting, and having crossed the Boca Chica, they saw a large drove of cattle in the distance, which they took to be Mexican cavalry ; and the bugle notes which the regulars heard, proceeded from an instrument played on board of one of the ves- sels in the harbour, the occasional notes of which had reached the picket-guard. After parade, next morning, the regiment was ordered to discharge their pieces by platoons, the report of which, at a distance, sounded like artillery. In the afternoon, an express arrived from Burita, to ascertain the cause of the firing, as it had produced much alarm there ; and the supposition prevailed that it must be the bombardment of Point Isabel ! We, in return, were seized with apprehensions, but the mystery was soon cleared up, it being ascertained that we were the cause of the mischief, which resulted in a hearty laugh. CAMP AT BRAZOS ST. JAGO. 17 CHAPTER II. Camp at Brazos St. Jaffo — Scenes and Incidents — Capture of a Vessel with contraband Goods — The Trial and Punishment of the Offenders — The Regi- ment moves to Burita — Arrival at the Rio Grande — Occurrences of the March — Wreck of the Steamer Frontier — Description of Burita. The weather was now excessively hot, and the men were suf- fering very much from the heat and the brackish water ; several had already died with the dysentery, the prevailing disease of the chmate. The nights, however, were cool and delightful. The only real pleasure which existed on the island was the fine sea- bathing. On the sea-shore, back of the hills, is a most lovely beach, where the waves roll in, frequently six and eight feet high. It was most delightful to swim out a hundred yards or so, and then ride in on the foaming crest of the waves. The men bathed night and day, which was most conducive to their health. The shore is lined with small shells, which arc washed up by the sea, many of which we picked up for their beauty. The sea view from the beach by moonlight is charming. There were several vessels of war and merchantmen riding at anchor in the offing ; and as they rose and fell with the waves, they seemed like things of life. The billoAvs sparkling with phosphoric light, and beam- ing with the rays of the moon, formed a starry heaven below ; and as they rolled upon the shore, receding with a murmuring sound, made a sweet and plaintive music for the ear. The view of the encampment, from the hills, presented a very fine appear- ance, as the number of tents had been augmented by the arrival of the Alabama battalion, the long lines of which, with the otiicers' markees in the rear, had a very fine effect. To prevent intemperance, whisky and all spirituous liquors were declared contraband, and not permitted to be sold to the men. Notwithstanding, the soldiers frequently got drunk, and it could not be discovered whence the hquor came. Our energetic heu- tenant-colonel, however, determined to ferret it out. So, watching two of the men, one day, he followed them to the foot of the island, where, back of the hills, on the beach, lay a small lugger, v/hich contained two men, and several barrels of liquor, which they had been selling to the soldiers at one dollar a pint ! Lieut. Col. Peck, on making this discovery, returned back to camp, and at night pro- ceeded with a detachment of soldiers down to the beach, captured the vessel and contents, and made the two men prisoners, who sur- rendered without resistance, though their boat was found to be Avell 2* 18 PUNISHMENT OF SMUGGLERS. armed. The next day a drum-head court-martial was held, and they were condemned and sentenced to be rode on a rail, and then lo leave the island in one hour afterwards. The men were either Spaniards or Italians, and two more cut-throat looking dogs we never saw. In default of a rail, however, a plank was procured, and they were bound, and made to straddle the edge of it ; a file of soldiers escorted them on either side, while the music in the rear struck up the "rogue's march," and thus, to the evident dehght of the men, they were drummed out of camp, and escorted down to their vessel. They bore their punishment with the most sulky indifference. But as an Irishman was heard to exclaim after- wards — " If ye only knew how those thieves of the world was cursing on ye's now, it v/ould make ye say yer prayers." We had now been on the island some ten days, and the men were becoming very much dissatisfied, and anxious to march to some more agreeable position for health, as well as comfort. The island was truly a most dreary and disagreeable place, and equally as bad as the Great Sahara desert, for whenever it blew a gale of wind at night, we would find ourselves next morning completely covered with sand, Avhich would drift in clouds before the wind, and sweep into our tents. On the 19th, the long looked-for orders arrived, and we struck tents for Burita. As we had no baggage wagons, the quarter- master furnished transportation for our camp equipage by the steamer Frontier, which was to go round by the mouth of the Rio Grande. The troops took up the line of march along the shore until we reached the Boca Chica, four miles from camp, and which we crossed without difficulty. We then continued on, still keep- ing the shore, until we arrived at the mouth of the Rio Grande, which is five miles from the Boca Chica. The day was intensely hot, and the men frequently had to stop and rest, the burning sand blistering their feet, which made the march extremely fatiguing. Once at the mouth, however, we were repaid for all our sufferings. The fresh, cool water of the Rio Bravo was most grateful in quenching our thirst. Green fields m^et the eye, which were ren- dered more pleasing from our long detention on the desert island ; and the neat little rancho on the opposite side of the river, fur- nished us with a supply of fruit, milk, and tortillas, or flat corn cakes baked on stone. The steamer, which was deeply laden with military stores and our baggage, was now seen slowly coming round the coast, though evidently labouring very much, for there was a heavy sea on, it blowing very fresh at the time. On nearing the mouth of the river, she struck on the bar in the midst of the breakers. Two launches were soon despatched to her assistance, and the sick sol- DEATH OF A VOLUNTEER. 19 diers taken off, with the camp women of the regiment. The gale increasing, the sea made a complete breach over her, and it was feared that she would soon become a wreck. The main body of the regiment, however, crossed the river, and moved on towards their place of destination, a detachment having been left with an officer, to secure the baggage, should the boat last till morning. The detachment took up their quarters for the night, on board the steamer " Sea," which was lying in the river, about a hundred yards from the mouth, and which was to convey them to Burita. As night set in, the rain fell in torrents. About 9, p. m., one of the sick volunteers, who had received the attention of our surgeon, expired. The scene which now presented itself in the cabin was one of strange novelty. The corpse had been laid out on one side of the cabin, and many were standing around to look at the fea- tures of the dead man, and as their gaze became satisfied, would walk moodily off, filled with the awe of death. A general gloom prevailed among the passengers, and many seemed wrapped in the thought how soon their time might come. To add to these melan- choly reflections, the rain was pattering down on the hurricane roof; and as the winds howled without, the moans of the surf joined in the lament, as if bewailing the loss of the spirit that had fled. A man soon after entered the cabin, and surveying the scene around, took a seat on the dining-table, and after commencing a conversation with a person who sat near, he gave a yawn, and throwing himself back until he rested on his elbow, said : " You will all d — n soon get used to such scenes, after you've been a little longer in the service. Why," said he, " after the battle of the 9th, we had been hard at work burying the dead, when coming across a fellow that had on a better pair of boots than I had, we exchanged ; and, after drinking the contents of his canteen, I made a pillow of the corpse, and never slept sounder in my hfe." This, with other equally refined and feeling remarks, embellished with coarse oaths, grated harshly on the ear of the sensitive, in presence of the dead. The storm had now somewhat abated, and the signal lights of the " Frontier" could still plainly be seen, while many thought she was sending up rockets as a sign of distress, the captain and crew being still on board. It was left for morning to tell the tale of her wreck, for at daylight she went to pieces, and every thing that would float was washed ashore with the surf. She had drifted in during the night, and now lay within fifty yards of the beach. The men waded out to her, and succeeded in saving nearly every thing from the wreck, which was placed on board the steamer " Sea." In the mean time, preparations had been made to bury the deceased volunteer. There were no boards to make a coffin, 20 DESCRIPTION OF BURITA. and so they wrapped his blanket around him, and carrying him on a bier, they marched to a high piece of ground, where his grave had been dug, and after firing a volley over him, a rude cross was placed in the earth to mark the spot. Many were heard to exclaim : *' It is a pity he had not fallen on the battle-field." And yet it is hard to say whether the poor fellow would have gained more glory, A soldier enhsts for the chances of death, though few who do so think of it at the time. And yet just as much honour, gratitude, and respect is due, whether he falls on the battle-field or not, so long as he dies in the service of his country. Having become tired of the monotony of camp life, and dissatis- fied with the commander of our regiment, we had previously resigned our position as adjutant, and determined to proceed to Matamoras, and join the scouting company of Captain McCuUoch's Texas Rangers, who, we were told, were kept constantly in active service. The steamer " Sea" was to leave for Burita, in the after- noon ; but having a fine horse with us, we preferred going up by land ; and so, at 10, a. m., on the morning of the 20th, in company with several other officers, we crossed the Rio Grande, and rode along some three or four miles, through a very low country, which the late rains had made both wet and muddy, the road in places being covered with water, until Ave came to a large lake on the left, with the river on our right. Here the country commenced rising, until the chaparral grew quite thick. At 12, m., we arrived at the little town of Burita, which is the first regular settlement after you leave the mouth. It is situated on a ridge of rising ground, on a bend of the Rio Grande. It is nothing more, in fact, than a miserable rancho, composed of some fifty huts, made of logs, mud , and cane. From its elevated position, you have a fine view of the surrounding country, and its situation is commanding. The place was full of volunteers, and several of the huts contained Mexi- can famihes of the poorest class. Every thing was in the greatest confusion, and in consequence of the camp equipage not having arrived, the men had to sleep on the ground, while the officers sought the deserted huts. The place was intrenched, and a breastwork thrown up for its defence. The 5th Louisiana regi- ment was encamped on the ridge, about two miles from this place, and many of the officers came in to see us. On entering one of the huts, we saw a Mexican woman employed cooking tortillas, on a heated flat stone, which she used as a griddle. A couple of naked children were playing in a corner of the hovel, the furni- ture of which consisted of a rude bench, a couple of stools, a ran- chero's saddle and bridle, and a few cooking utensils, — their beds consisting of raw hides and blankets. Here we procured a tole- rable cup of coflJee and some tortillas, of which, from the strong DEPARTURE FOR MATAMORAS. 21 taste of tallow, a single mouthful proved sufficient. The woman looked much distressed at our rejection of her cookery, for fear, perhaps, that we might demand back a portion of the quarter we had given her ; and taking up the cake and biting it, and then dividing it between the two children, to re-assure us, said, " Si, si, sefior, este mucho bueno." The volunteers Avere delighted with their new position, and the change of scene. That night might have been heard many a song and wild laugh of glee, which told of the revelry which prevailed in camp. CHAPTER III. Camp of the 5th Louisiana Regiment — Departure for Matamoras — Incidents of the Road — Description of Matamoras, &c. — Capt. McCuUoch — Camp of the Regulars — Scenes and Anecdotes — The Camp of the Rangers — The Fourth of July — Incidents — The old French Baker — His Garden — A Wed- ding — The Fandango. The next day we visited the camp of the 5th regiment of Loui- siana Volunteers, and were kindly received by Col. Peyton and other officers. The situation of the encampment, being high on the ridge, was extremely pleasant ; and having plenty of good water, the troops were very healthy. We had intended to pro- ceed on alone to Matamoras, which AA^as eighteen miles distant, but being advised that rancheros infested the road, and that it was not safe, we determined to remain for a party who were going up the next day. Meeting many friends, we spent a delightful evening ; it was a fine moonlight night, and the scene around was wild and picturesque. Our party started after breakfast on the 22d ; and after riding about three leagues, we stopped at the house of a Mexican, who had cakes and fruit to sell, and partook of some refreshment. We found the house very neat and clean, and the females well- looking. There was a very pretty child standing by the door, who seemed to take great pleasure in our company ; approaching us familiarly, and looking up with his bright eyes, he said, " Americanos mucho bueno.^^ After proceeding a short distance, we fell in with a party of Mexicans, who said they were out hunting cattle. Five leagues distant, we came to another farm- house, and on dismounting, we found it only occupied by a wo- man and her child. The house contained wax images of the Saviour and the saints, with many crosses hung about the Avails, which she seemed to take pleasure in showing us. Here we ate 22 DESCRIPTION OF MATAMORAS. some very fine melons, and, after recompensing the woman, pro- ceeded on our road, which was very muddy and disagreeable. A Mexican shortly after overtook us, who told us he was going to Matamoras. In passing a large cross put up at one side of the road, he replied to our inquiry that it was for a murder which had been committed there. The fellow appeared very shrewd and cunning, and spoke a little English ; so we determined to keep a look out for him, but he made some excuse to lag behind, and soon after gave us the slip. We were now about five miles from the towTi, and passed some very fine houses, with gardens laid off, and improvements indicating more civilization than we had yet seen. They were perfectly deserted, however, the proprietors having left on account of the war. We soon discovered the town in the distance, where we arrived at 3, p. m. The entrance to the town, by narrow, dirty streets, was not very prepossessing ; but then, any thing like a town was a great relief to us, and as we gained the main plaza, we became more reconciled. On the south-east side of the plaza stands the cathedral, an old ungainly building, still unfinished, as most of the churches are in Mexico — an excuse, it is said, for the priests to extort money for their completion, which seldom takes place. The houses which line the other sides of the square are generally two stories high and well built. In another square is a small chapel called La Capilla, and which, we were told, was the more " fashionable" church of the two. In all the churches are wax figures, repre- senting "the crucifixion" and the "Virgin Mary." The fur- niture of the churches is very poor. The houses of the poorer classes are one-story huts, built of stone and mud, and thatched with cane. The houses which are built of stone and brick have balconies in front, and the windows below are all barred with iron railings, as is the case with the houses in the West Indies and South America. The streets are very narrow, and partly paved. There were but few families of class in town, — and what principally struck us was the shops and stores being occupied by Mexicans, who were still carrying on their trades, as if nothing had happened to interrupt them. In fact they were doing a brisker business than ever. The Mexican barracks and hospital are large and well built; and the latter contained the wounded of the late battles. It was a most sorrowful sight to see the pale and haggard countenances of the wounded Mexicans, as they lay stretched out on the pallets which hned the sides of the rooms. A stalwart looking man was reclining on his elbow, with his head resting on his hand, having a fierce moustache, and who was pointed out to me by the Mexican medico, or surgeon, as having belonged to the " Guarda Costa" of the Tampico regiment, Mlii''/ 'f'li Captain McCuUoch, from a Daguerreotype by J. McGuire, New Orleans. CAPTAIN McCULLOCII. 23 which, it may be remembered, fought so bravely, and was almost emirely cut up. The market-house is very poor, and the princi- pal houses which surround it are grog-shops and groceries. There were several public houses opened, with billiard rooms, and a great deal of gambling going on. The population of Mata- moras is about 4000. The next day, in company with some officers of the army, we called on the American consul, Mr. Schatzel, who has been resid- ing here for a great many years. He treated us very hospitably, and said he should always be glad to see us. We then visited the late quarters of Generals Arista and Ampudia, Avhich were nothing more than clever buildings, though finely fitted up inside, and now occupied by the departments of our army. Returning, we met Mr. Kendall, of the Picayune, who introduced us to Capt. Benjamin McCulloch, the celebrated partisan scout. Capt. McCulloch is a man of rather delicate frame, of about five feet ten inches in height, with light hair and complexion. His features are regular and pleasing, though, from long exposure on the fron- tier, they have a weather-beaten cast. His quick and bright blue eye, with a mouth of thin compressed lips, indicate the cool, cal- culating, as well as the brave and daring energy of the man. Being told that we were anxious to join his company, after run- ning his eye over us, he asked, "Have you a good horse, sir? for," said he, " I have refused a great many because their horses would not do for our service." Our horse was then inspected, and being pronounced "a good horse," we were immediately made a " Texas Ranger." Capt. McCulloch had just come hi from a scout towards Linares, and a detachment of his company had been left at Reynoso, under the command of Lieut. McMul- len ; and it was expected that we would move up to Reynoso in a few days. Benjamin McCulloch was born in Rutherford county, state of Tennessee, about the year 1814. His father, Alexander McCul- loch, was aid-de-camp to General Coffee, and fought under Gen. Jackson at the battles of Talladega, Tallahassee, and Horse-shoe, during the Creek war. While McCulloch was very yourig, his father emigrated to Alabama, and Benjamin was sent back to Tennessee to school, where he remained until he was about fourteen years cJJ. Shortly after, however, his father moved back to the western district of Tennessee, and settled in Dyer county. There, Ben was kept hunting until he was near twenty-one. At that time the bears were so bad that hogs could not be raised on their account, and the settlers principally depended upon bear-meat for subsistence. In those days, if a man's gun snapped, he lost his breakfast, for hunting bears in the cane requires much caution. 24 CAPTAIN Mcculloch. McCulloch, however, generally killed as many as eighty bears in the course of a season, and never less than twenty during a winter. When about twenty-one, being fond of a life of adventure, he determined to go on an expedition to the Rocky Mountains, and left his home for St. Louis, to join a company of trappers ; but arriving too late he was disappointed, when he tried to get in with a party of Santa Fe traders ; in this he likewise failed, the complement of men having been made up. He then visited the lead mines m Wisconsin territory, and remained during the summer at Dodge- ville. In September, McCulloch returned home, and soon after his arrival, called on Colonel David Crockett, who was making up an expedition to go to Texas, to take part in the revolution that had then broken out in Mexico ; the whole south-west at that time was alive with feelings of sympathy for the Texians, and were daily flocking to their, standard. McCulloch agreed to accompany Colo- nel Crockett to Texas. Nacogdoches had been appointed the place of rendezvous from which the expedition was to start, and the Christmas of 1835 was named the day for the meeting — when, as " old Davy" said, they vjere to make their Christmas dinner off the hump of a buffalo I Unfortunately, however, McCulloch did not arrive until early in January, and finding the party was gone, he proceeded on by himself to the river Brazos, where he was taken very ill, and did not recover until after the fall of the Alamo. McCulIoch's disappointment was very great at not being able to join the gallant band of patriots at the time, but which afterwards proved very fortunate for him ; for Colonel Travis, after having sustained a siege for thirteen days with only one hundred and eighty Texians against Santa Anna's army, fell Avith his brave little band, having previously killed nine hundred of the enemy! After his recovery, he descended the Brazos river in a boat to Gross Plant, where the Texian army had assembled under General Houston, and was induced to join the artillery by their making him captain of a gun. This he gallantly served at the battle of San Jacinto, where Santa Anna was made prisoner, and his army of 1500 killed or captured. McCulloch settled in Gonzales county, and was afterwards em- ployed on the frontier of Texas, in surveying and locating lands, and serving in the wild border scouts against the Indians and Mexicans, which service he entered before the celebrated Hays. He also distinguished himself in a fight with the Indians, who burnt Linnville, called the battle of Plum Creek. He was like- wise at the taking of Mier, but not agreeing with the plans of the CAMP OF THE REGULARS. 25 expedition afterwards, he returned home before the fight, and thus escaped from the cruel hardships and imprisonment of that com- mand, which had surrendered to the perfidious Ampudia. He was in almost all the expeditions of the time, and engaged in nearly all of the fights. The following pages give to the reader the continuation of the exploits of this daring partisan. The regulars were encamped along the banks of the river, which here makes a circling bend, about a quarter of a mile from the town ; while opposite, from Fort Brown upwards, was the encampment of the first brigade of the Louisiana Volunteers. The long lines of tents on each side of the river looked most beautiful ; it was a new scene to us, as we had never beheld such a large encampment. There are too very good ferries across the river — flat boats — one near Fort Brown, and the other above, op- posite Fort Paredes, on the Matamoras side. The evening parades of the companies of the different regiments made a fine display. The bands of the regiments generally played until tattoo, the music of which produced the most delightful sensations, being so near the water. The battle-fields of "Palo Aho" and " Resaca de la Palma" were still fresh, and the incidents green in the memory of the officers, and many were the interesting stories which were related to us, as having occurred at the time. On spending a night with the officers of the 5th regiment. Captain C told the following story of Captain, now Lieut. Col. Martin Scott : "As you well know," said he, " Scott never was without his fa- vourite dogs ; and as we were ordered to charge the battery in command of Gen. de la Vega, which the dragoons had been re- pulsed at, our adjutant having first volunteered the services of the regiment to do so, we rushed up to sustain them, and drove the enemy back by the point of the bayonet, from retaking the guns — here it was that the brave Lieut. Col. Mcintosh received three bayonet wounds — we were already in the rear of the enemy's guns, and sustained the gallant charge which Captain May had been ordered to make." " As we were charging the enemy," said Captain C , " I discovered the dogs behind me, who, hearing the wild shouts of Capt. Scott, thought that he was after game, when running ahead, they let out in full blast, and were close on to the heels of the Mexicans, when one of them was un- fortunately shot by the enemy." It was a delightful evening — the band of the 5th was playing some soul-stirring airs — and among the rest was, " Love not," — the stars never shone brighter in a heaven so sweetly blue, and save the occasional challenge of the sentinels, all was a quiet of sweet repose. The 1st of July was a beautiful clear day; we had had verj'- heavy rains for the last week — and to see a bright day once more 3 26 CAMP OF THE TEXAS RANGERS. was a great relief to us all. In the morning, we rode up to Fort Paredes, Avliich was noAv garrisoned by our troops, and crossed the river, then taking a winding path along the banks of the opposite shore, through cornfields, we arrived at last at the camp of the " Rangers." Here was a scene worthy of the pencil. Men in groups with long beards and moustaches, dressed in every variety of garment, with ohe exception, the slouched hat, the unmistaka- ble uniform of a Texas Ranger, and a belt of pistols around their waists, were occupied drying their blankets, cleaning and fixing their guns, and some employed cooking at different fires, while others were grooming their horses. A rougher looking set we never saw. They were without tents, and a miserable shed af- forded them the only shelter. Capt. McCulloch introduced us to his officers, and many of his men, who appeared an orderly and well-mannered people. But from their rough exterior it was hard to tell who or what they were. Notwithstanding their ferocious and outlaw look, there were among them doctors and laAvyers, and many a college graduate. While standing in the midst of a group, talking to the captain, a young fellow came into camp with a rifle on his shoulder, and a couple of ducks in his hand, and addressing the captain, said, " Ben, if you hav'nt had dinner, you'd better mess with me, for I know none of the rest have fresh grub to-day." After an invitation to stay to dinner, we were in- formed that the company would move up to Reynoso in a day or two, and were told to pi'epare to go with it. So, riding back to our quarters, we were filled with the thought of the wild exciting life we were soon about to lead. On the 4th of July, the day broke with all the glory and splen- dour worthy of the commemoration of A merican liberty. A national salute was fired at sunrise, noon, and sunset, from the different batteries, in honour of the day ; and as peal after peal of cannon burst upon the air, the reverberation seemed to echo across the plains of Mexico the shout of liberty. The soldiers of the late battles felt as it were a congeniality of feehng with our forefathers, only that they were freemen, but fighting to free the slaves and serfs of Mexico from the hands of tyrants and oppressors, as well as to avenge the insult to our national honour. The " stars and stripes ' waved on high from the surrounding battlements, and the plazas of Matamoras; and the Mexicans themselves joined in the gladness of freedom's anniversary. This was the first time of such an occurrence in a foreign, as well as an enemy's country. The volunteers gave a sumptuous dinner, in honour of the day. Night closed the day of festivity with a fandango, given by the Mexican ladies, and many an impression was made by the Ameri- can cavaliers upon the dark-eyed daughters of Mexico. THE FRENCH BAKER. 27 The next day, our company left for Reynoso, but lying ill at the time, we were prevented from accompanying- it. In a few days after, our first-lieutenant, John McMullen, came down with despatches, and in the mean time the river having risen very high, from the recent heavy rains overflowing the banks, the roads were rendered impassable. Steamers now, however, were actively employed in transporting military and commissary stores to Comargo, which had lately been garrisoned by a part of the troops of the second division, and we would thus be enabled to go up by the river. Calling on the commanding general soon after our recovery, to ascertain the chances of transportation, he remarked, after some pleasant conversation, that he was perfectly deluged with letters, and that much of his time was occupied in making replies. "And, sir," said Gen. Taylor, smiling, as he handed us two letters, " to show you the diversity of subjects that I am called upon to respond to, you may look at these." One of the letters was from a boy, fourteen years of age, giving a sort of history of himself and family, and who desired to enhst in the service, and had written to the general to ask his advice on the subject ! The other was from an Irish woman, who wanted to know if her son Mike was killed, as she had not heard from him since the late battles. We feel sure that such letters would not have received attention at TVashington, but both of them were answered by the general, carrying out the maxim that nothing is beneath the atten- tion of a great man; and we left him, impressed with the great goodness of his heart. In Matamoras, there lives an old Frenchman, who keeps a bakery. Many years ago, he lived in New Orleans, and on en- tering into conversation with him, he told us he had married in Matamoras, and now had grandchildren. We saw one of his married daughters, who was well educated, and far superior to any Mexican woman we had yet met. She Avas rather pretty and quite engaging. They owned a very large garden opposite, filled with fruits and flowers which were most beautiful. The lady took us over, and showed us through the garden, and took evident pleasure in explaining to us the names of them in Spanish. She said, that next to her children she thought of her flower-gar- den ; that she had often heard of our fine gardens in the United States, and had longed to see them. She picked a large white double rose, which she said was called the " Queen of Spain," and presented it to us, remarking, as she looked up at the greeni oranges, " When our fruit gets ripe you must come to see us, for I hope by that time the war will be over." On Sunday, the 12th of July, we attended mass with some offi-. cers, and returning from the chapel, we fell jn with two surg;eons 28 THE FANDANGO. of the Mexican army, who were well educated men, one of them speaking French tolerably well. Having invited them to dine with us, they made themselves very agreeable, and told us that Ampudia was fortifying- Monterey, and that we would no doubt have a decisive battle there. After dinner, they invited us to a private party, which they said was to take place that evening. Before which, however, we went to witness a marriage between a young Mexican officer, and a very pretty Mexican girl. The parties, it appears, had been engaged for two years, and the young officer, during the late battles, had his leg shot off; notwithstand- ing, the girl was true and constant, and determined to have him. The bride was dressed in white, with a gold necklace, which hung over her bosom, and a white veil covering half of her head and face. The groom was in full uniform, which looked very imposing. They were married by the priest, after which there was a shaking of hands, and mingling of congratulations. At night we went to the fandango. The girls were dressed very plain, but neat ; and some were quite good-looking. The most beautiful feature about them is their pretty feet. Their dresses were all made short-waisted, after the old fashion, without either corsets or stays to shape them. The Mexican gallants were dressed in white jackets, with pants of blue cotton or fine-dressed buckskin, embroidered with silk, open at the sides, and fined with buttons down the legs, underneath which they wore white loose drawers, which made quite a flashy contrast. Around their waists they wore a blue or red sash. Their hats were of a high crowned conical shape, of black glazed silk, around which they wore silver bands. The music consisted of a tambourine and a mandofin. Their quadrilles were much like ours, only that they danced them differently. The waltz was a sort of slow march, balancing at every two or three turns. We all danced with the girls, and had quite a pleasant time ; all agreeing that " Dona Catherina" was the belle of the niorht. CHAPTER IV. Departure for Reynoso on the Steamer " J. E. Roberts" — The Rio Grande and its Banks — Our Arrival and Departure — The Steamer aground — Lieut. Mc- MuUen's Story — Ride to Reynoso — Description of the Town — An Incident — We proceed to Coniargo — The river San Juan — Clay Davis's Place — Arri- val at Comargo — Description of its Ruins — The Rangers' Camp, &c. — A Sunday at Church — The Mexican Girls — Their Dress and Customs. We had long been waiting most anxiously for a boat to take us to Reynoso, in order to join our company, which we were fearful would go out on a scout before we could reach it. An opportunity VOYAGE ON THE RIO GRANDE. 29 at last presented itself. The 1st infantry was already stationed at Reynoso, and the 7th and 8th had been despatched to Comargo by land. This latter point was to be made the grand depot for future operations, and large quantities of military stores were now being sent up. Orders had also been issued to the 5th regiment to move. And on the 13th of July, three companies of the 5th, under com- mand of Capt. Merrill, were embarked on the steamer " J. E. Ro- berts," and taking our horses on board, we bade adieu to Matamoras, and were soon booming up the Rio Grande. At night we stopped at Gen. P. F. Smith's camp of the volun- teers, which was then some fifteen miles from Matamoras, on the same side of the river. Several of the volunteer officers came on board to see us, and after landing a few stores, we kept on our way again. The Rio Grande is certainly one of the most crooked rivers in all North America. It partakes very much of the character of our own Mississippi, and is in fact very much like it, only not so wide or deep. The river being very high, a quantity of trees and drift-wood were running down with a sweeping current of about six knots per hour. The wood piles on the banks were quite numerous for the short time our boats had been running, as steamers never before ran so high up the river. The corn fields were one sheet of water, and the Mexicans were gathering the ears in canoes ! The huts on the banks were made of mud and cane, with no order or neatness about them. The farms generally were very fine, and we passed som^e most beautiful places for the opening of planta- tions. We made but httle headway at night, on account of the strong current frequently forcing the boat into the banks, in turn- ing the bends of the river, and so violent were the concussions, that we were often alarmed for our safety. On we sped, however, invading the enemy's country without opposition ; and it was the subject of remark, that we were thus permitted to proceed without resistance. For, had the enemy chosen, small parties might have lain in ambush, and injured and harassed our boats very much ; certain it is, that no enemy could take such a liberty with us in our country. At 10, a. m., on the morning of the 15th, we arrived at Reynoso, a distance of 170 miles, which is situated on a high, rocky, steep point, and contains about 2,000 souls. Here Ave stopped to wood, and learning that our company had gone to Comargo, we remained on board. The road to the town was up a long and steep hill, and it was so extremely hot, that we could not be induced to venture its ascent. Having received our complement of wood, we pursued our course. At 2, p. M., when about fifteen miles from Reynoso, our boat got aground, on the right-hand side of the river, at a place called Sa- baritas. After many inefiectual efiorts to get off, the soldiers were 3* 30 all put ashore to lighten the boat, but it did not seem to aid her. At 4, p. M., the "Brownsville" hove in sight, coming down, and by her assistance we were hauled off, and went over on the other side of the river, to he up for the night. The soldiers remained on the opposite shore, under charge of two officers, and had encamped till morning. Within fifty yards of this place, there is an ugly bar making out, with quite a fall in the river, which is here very shoal, and the current very rapid. The next morning we spent in ineflectual attempts to get over the bar. The weather was intensely hot, and there was but a slight chance of success. In the mean time, the soldiers were brought over in the yawl. We were sitting out on the boiler deck, after dinner, when Capt. C , who had heard that Lieut. McMuilen was at the battle of Mier, and had been made a prisoner, drew out of him the following story. As the battle is a matter of history, we will omit that part of his narrative, although it was most graphically described at the time, and proceed from where the Texians surren- dered. " We had fought from house to house," said young McMui- len, for he is hardly twenty-five, " making holes through the roofs, so that w^e could get on their tops, and had completely driven the Mexicans from the plaza, when a flag of truce was sent in from Ampudia, by an officer, to know if w^e would surrender, with instructions that, if we iiwidd not, to tell us that they would capitulate ! But this we did not know till afterwards. It was put to vote, and as our men were badly cut up, it was thought most prudent to do so, on conditions that we should be honourably treated as prisoners of war. On coming out into the streets, however, we saw the terrible havoc that our rifles had made. The tops of their houses were covered with the dead, and the gutters on the roofs streamed with their blood. Had we but held out, the day would have been our own. " The next day we were ordered to prepare to march to the city of Mexico ; when about fifty leagues from which, we arrived at the town of San Miguel Grande. Here we were imprisoned for some time. Previous to being locked up. Col. Ortice, who was more kind to us than any other officer, marched us around and showed us the town and the plaza. We were evidently the greatest curiosity that the inhabitants had ever seen, for they flocked in numbers to see us. Our garments were soiled and tat- tered, and our condition most wretched. As we passed the doors of the houses, the women pitied us very much, and after we were locked up, the Mexican girls came and threw cakes and other eat- ables over the walls to us, though it was strictly forbidden at the time. On our arrival at Tacubaya, near the city of Mexico, Madame Tobias, and other French ladies, determined to give us a LIEUTENANT McMULLEn's NARRATIVE. 31 dinner, as we were nearly starved to death. The Mexican officers, however, would not permit us to accept of it, when the indignation of every one became so great, that they were forced to open our prison doors ; and if ever poor mortals enjoyed a dinner, we cer- tainly did that one. To sit down once more at a table in a civil- ized way, with a white snowy cloth, and every luxury about you, after the long deprivations we had suffered, was too much for us. Our confusion and awkwardness was extreme, before the ladies, and it was some time before we could well handle our knife and fork. The ladies were delighted, and seemed to enjoy the fun more than we did the feast. " After we were released from the dingy prisons of Mexico," continued our narrator, '* we were invited to the house of Senor Don Floris, the splendour of which quite dazzled us. The walls were beautifully painted, resembling our papered walls at home ; the furniture was very costly, and every thing else was in ac- cordance with it. There were many young ladies present, one of whom played on the piano, and sang a song for us. One of us was then requested to sing, and having been told that I sang a comic song — for there were several of us that spoke Spanish — they immediately pressed me into service, and entreated me to favour them with a song, which I did, but I was stopped at the end of each verse, until it was translated to them. The song caused a great deal of merriment and hearty laughter. A dance was next proposed ; but not caring to make a greater display of the seat of my unmentionables than I could help — for all of us were yet nearly destitute of clothing — I resolutely kept my seat at the far end of the sofa. But there was no getting off; no excuse would do, and I was forced to take a stand by a fair girl upon the floor. My bashfulness was extreme, and the mischievous girls discovering the cause, for I was not the only one in the scrape, enjoyed the fun to the utmost. After the dance was over, and we had partaken of some refreshment, what was our surprise to find that our noble host had procured any quantity of clothing for us ! I was shown into a room where a bath had been prepared for me, and shortly after, while making my toilet, several of the ladies came in and insisted upon aiding to dress me. They combed my hair with their own hands, arranged my fine hnen collar for me, and showed me how to tie the silk sash about my waist. All this time they seemed to take evident delight at my confusion, and their conversation was continually interrupted with roars of laughter. Having completed my toilet for me, they brought me a looking-glass, and I assure you I thought I never looked better in my life. I could only ex- press my gratitude by kissing their hands ; and one of my most grateful remembrances, is that of Senor Don Floris and his family.'* 32 REYNOSO AND COMARGO. It was now about 5, p. m., and the captain of the "boat deter- mined to discharge a portion of the freight, so as to enable us to proceed. To give one an idea of the serpentine bends of the river, although we were fifteen miles from Reynoso by water, yet the town was only one mile and a half off by land, and we could plainly see the spire of the church, and the tops of the houses ! Lieut. McMullen and ourself determined to ride back to town, and if it was practicable, to go up b}^ land. So we took our horses on shore, and saddled up. The town is quite neat, and is prettily laid off; the houses are principally built of a gray stone, many of Avhich had been injured by the late flood ; the church stands out in bold relief on the river side of the plaza, fronting towards it. Here Ave found the 1st infantry encamped, the officers of which kindly asked us to stay to supper, which we did. After talking over the news, and partaking of some of Mr. Murphej^'s " whisky toddy," liaYinfT concluded to remain on the boat, we started to return, Lieut. FL, of the 1st, accompanying us. It was now late, and the night very dark, and after riding about a mile or so, we found that we had taken the wrong road. We then turned back, and discovering a light, we rode up to it, and found two little shepherd boys, miserably clad, lying by a fire, whom we obtained to show us the road to the steamboat. After paying them, seeing that the poor boys trembled with the cold night air, we offered them a drink of liquor, which the eldest seemed to relish very much. One could not help but pity the little fellows ; they Avere used to hardships, however, for a roof seldom or never covered their heads. Having discharged a large portion of our freight, which was left in charge of Capt. Chapman and his company, we got under weigh at daylight, on the morning of the ITth, and succeeded in getting over the bar, and were once m.ore on our way for Comargo, Avhich is about 180 miles from Reynoso. The afternoon was cloudy, Avith rain, and as the navigation Avas diflicult, we lay by all night. The next day, at 8, p. m., aa'-o entered the mouth of the riA-er San Juan. The scenery here is wild and rugged, the banks being very high and steep, for the riA^er had fallen very much since we left Matamoras. Three miles from the mouth, Ave stopped at Clay Davis's place, on the east bank of the Rio Grande, called the "City of the Rio Grande," a beautiful situation, and the best point on the river. Whatever the city is to be, time Avill tell ; it noAA% hoAA'ever, contained only a feAv huts. Some two miles above the city of Rio Grand % on the left bank of the San Juan, is situated the town of Comargo, which but a feAV weeks ?go was one of the finest built toAvns in this section of country, and contained a population of nearly three thousand. THE RANGERS AT COMARGO. 33 On ascending the bank, we were struck with the desolation and ruin which had spread itself on every side. The late flood, which had been the cause of it, came on rapidly in the night, while the inhabitants were wrapped in their peaceful slumbers, and many had not the least intimation of it, until the waters had actually floated them out of their beds. From a description which we received from a Mexican, who was here at the time, it must have been heart-rending in the extreme. Mothers were seen wadino- waist-deep, carrying their children in their arms, hurry- ing to places of safety, filling the air with shrieks of dismay. The men were engaged saving the children, many of whom were clinging to floating materials, and carrying them to the tops of the houses for safety, which had become the only resort among the poorer classes, who hved in huts, and slept on the ground floor — while those who occupied two-story houses were in greater peril, for the walls becoming saturated, gave way and fell in with a crash, frequently drowning a whole family, while others were carried away by the flood, or drowned in their beds. There were many lives lost, and the destruction of property was very great, about two hundred houses having been ruined. The town was once very beautiful, and from the ruined walls we saw, the houses must have been quite pretty. It contains three plazas, in the middle one of which is situated the finest buildings, and where still stands a neat little church. Here we were welcomed by many friends, and were soon con- ducted to the camp of the Rangers, which lay at the upper end of the town. Our mess, in company with three others, occupied a long tent open at both ends, formerly used for an hospital, an old concern which had served to keep out the sun and rain ; while the rest occupied the vacant and ruined huts around. Many of the men had just come in from grazing their horses, and were now occupied in grooming them ; others were cooking over fires, and preparing supper. At sundown we were invited by our mess to take a cup of cofl^ee, out of a tin pot, and was reminded by them, after our hearty meal, that our cook-day would come on Monday. Rations of corn and oats were then served out for our horses — the guard was paraded, and the sentinels posted. It was a fine even- ing, and the Rangers sat round in groups listening to the songs and stories of their comrades. There is no place like camp for studying character. Men are there seen in their true light, and from the intimate association, every trait which is noble and good, or otherwise, is sure to manifest itself. There can be no deceit or affectation practised there to advantage. And whatever may be the rank or station of men in life, in camp all find their level. The aristocracy of wealth which governs in large cities among 34 LIFE IN THE CAMP. civilians of the present day, is not respected or courted in the camp of a soldier. There, bravery and intelh'gence outrank it. At 9 o'clock the men retired, our beds consisting merely of a blanket spread on the ground, with a sack of corn or oats for a pillow, or heading as the " boys^^ called it, and save those who were on guard, all was soon hushed in sleep. On Sunday, the 19th, at daylight, a party of us went out about a mile and a half to graze our horses. The morning was beauti- ful, and as is always the case when we meet with new scenery, it elevated the soul, and one became more impressed with the grandeur of God's works. The country around looked bright and cheerful, the birds were singing their morning carols, and the green fields and forests of chaparral were pleasing to the eye. We carried our arms w^ith us, and on arriving at the pasturage, we slipped our horses' bridles around their necks, and merely un- buckled the girths without taking off the saddle, so that in case of surprise, we would be ready for a fight or flight. We then untied our cabaristas or Mexican halters, which are about some twenty or thirty feet long, and holding the end in our hands, lay down and let our horses graze at will. The grass here was only tolerable, owing to the late overflow. On returning, we met several small parties of Mexicans on horseback, some of whom were carry- ing women before them, instead of behind them, as is the custom in our country. On reaching camp we rode down to the river, and ■watered our horses. The banks were lined with women who carried earthen jars upon their heads, and were busy filling them with water — while others were occupied w^ashing clothes, and another group of girls were bathing in the river. They did not mind our presence at all, and swam with great ease and activity. After feeding and grooming our horses we went to breakfast. To have seen the diffl'rent messes sitting round their meal, one would have thought, from the savage-looking mien of the men, with their long matted hair and beards, and their singular costumes, that we were a band of brigands. Our life was a rough one, and although sometimes disagreeable, yet from its novelty and wild excitement it had many charms — for notwithstanding the hardships we suf- fered, there was much in it that partook of the romance of the olden days of chivalry. After breaktast, having determined to go to church, we com- pleted our toilet by greasing our boots, which came up over the caps of our knees, instead of blacking them. The chiming of the bells reminded us mightily of our old cathedral at New Orleans; and as it was so natural after taking one's cafe noir at the French market on Sunday morning, to drop into the cathedral to see our pretty Creole girls, and listen to the fine music of the VISIT TO THE CATHEDRAL. 35 choir, we thought we would see if we could fancy ourself back there by taking a look into the Comargo cathedral. So we strolled up to the main plaza, and entered the church, but we were doomed to be disappointed. Picture to yourself a good-looking building outside, built of a brown lime-stone, with a very neat and pretty white steeple and spire which reminded one of a church in New England. The church is about sixty feet long, with two wings at the rear, leading to which is a very narrow aisle about twelve feet wide, where stands the altar, which was decorated with wax figures and crosses. On one side was a figure of the Holy Virgin, and on the other a figure representing the Saviour on the cross. The tinsel gilt ornaments that surrounded them had the appearance of a worn-out player's wardrobe. The Senoritas were all kneeling on the left-hand side of the aisle, while the greasers, or Mexican citizens stood up on the right, there being no seats or pews. Over the front door of the church was placed a small gallery, containing the choir, which was com- posed of one bass, and one tenor singer, one clarion, and a mando- lin. There were no female singers. And such exquisite screech- ing, and strange jumbling of sounds as was produced by their combined efforts, we thought was most admirabl}'- adapted for the sheet iron band, or for one of our southern negro congo dances. We could not be made to believe that it was sacred jnusicJ and so far from being piously impressed, it was as much as we could do to keep from laughing outright. The priest did not pretend to preach a sermon'; but after prayers were said he went through a ceremony that we never before witnessed. His robes were of the most fantastical colours, rudely embroidered and trimmed with gold. At a given signal, four little boys approached, each holding a pole, which supported the four corners of a red canopy trimmed with gold edging, which the priest got under, when they marched down the aisle ; the choir at the same time struck up a regular jig, for we can compare it to nothing else, and as they reached the door, there was not room for them to turn round, so they marched out into the street, and re-entered marching back to the altar. The music then ceased, when the priest took off his robes, and without pronouncing a Benedicite, his flock were dismissed. The ]\! xican girl^ here are nearly the same in feature as our Choctaw Indians. Now and then you see one rather pretty. They generally dress in calicoes, some few in silks : their dresses are all very short ivaisted, which make them look somewhat Hko Dutch girls. They wear over their heads a light scarf, which hangs down at the sides, and which they frequently make use of as a veil, called ribosa. They wear no bonnets, nor know what they are, the fashion not yet having been introduced among them. 36 MEXICAN WOMEN. Their principal employment is in weaving blankets, which they do very ingeniously, assorting the colours with great taste. They card the wool and spin from the distaff, as our mothers did in ancient times. Some of the blankets of their manufacture, are extremely beautiful, and cost as high as a hundred dollars. Hav- ing no books to read, and being totally illiterate, with few excep- tions, they spend their afternoons in hunting among each others' tresses of long black hair; they have no combs, and use a kind of straw brush, with which they part the hair, in order to find the objects of their industrious search. They bathe every morn- ing and evening in crowds in the river, and indeed are more lack- ing in modesty than in virtue. The women generally washed for us — charging one dollar per dozen without ironing, and two dollars if ironed. I was surprised, however, to see with what neatness they did up the clothes. Sefiora Juan Sanches, having two good-looking daughters, received the principal custom. The houses were generally miserably fur- nished. Some, however, were quite neat. They have very pretty worked cushions, which, on entering a house, they always place in a chair for you to sit on. They generally treated us kindly, but were very suspicious and distrustful ; and whenever there were Mexican men about, they would refuse to converse with us. The women keep the money and the treasure of their husbands, which is generally hid in the ground ; and there are many stories about large sums having been found in digging about old ranches. CHAPTER y. News of the War reaches Texas — Formation of Capt. McCulloch's Company, of Rangers — March to Corpus Christi — The Ford of the Laguna del Madre — Padre's Island — Uncle Tilley — The Carankawa Indians — Arrival at Point Isabel — March to Matamoras — Scout towards Linares — Incidents — Capture of the Mexican Mail — Arrival at Reynoso. CoMARGO about this time presented a scene of as busy an aspect as any commercial city. Steamers were daily arriving with sub- sistence, stores, and munitions of war. There might have been frequently seen four or five steamers at a time at the landing, be- sides the ferry boats which were constantly crossing and recross- ing the river. The banks were crowded with barrels and boxes, and teams rattled along at as dangerous a rate as in one of our great cities. The whole of the Second Division of the army, under Gen. Worth, had arrived, and every thing told that great preparations were making for stirring events, the character of 37 which was not to be mistaken. The period had arrived when the services of our company were most needed ; there was much in store for us, and we longed for the exciting moments which should call our energies into action. That time had come. But before we proceed to relate the incidents of our adventurous scouts, it will be necessary, for the sake of unity, that our narrative should revert to the period when our company was first called into the field ; and we must request the reader to accompany us back to the scenes and incidents which occurred from the time of its organization up to the moment of our admission into its ranks. The following sketches of that period have been kindly furnished us by the talented author of the following song, who also served with us in the ranks : THE RANGER'S SONG.— Air: "I'm Afloat." By James T. Lytle. I. Mount ! mount ! and away o'er the green prairie wide— The sword is our sceptre, the fleet steed our pride ; Up ! up ! with our flag — let its bright star gleam out- Mount ! mount ! and away on the wild border-scout ! II. We care not for danger, we heed not the foe — Where our brave steeds can bear us, right onward we go, And never, as cowards, can we fly from the fight, While our behs bear a blade, our star sheds its light. III. Then mount and away ! give the fleet steed the rein-— The Ranger's at home on the prairies again; Spur ! spur in the chase, dash on to the fight, Cry Vengeance for Texas ! and God speed the right. IV. The might of the foe gathers thick on our way — They hear our wild shout as we rush to the fray ; What to us is the fear of the death-stricken plain — We have "braved it before, and will brave it again." V. The death-dealing bullets around us may fall — They may strike, they may kill, but they cannot appal ; ^ Through the red field of carnage right onward we'll wade, While our guns carry ball, and our hands wield the blade. VI. Hurrah, my brave boys ! ye may fare as ye please, No Mexican banner now floats in the breeze ! 'Tis the flag of Columbia that waves o'er each height, While on its proud folds our star sheds its light. VII. Then mount and away ! give the fleet steed the rein — The Ranger's at home on the prairies again ; Spur ! spur in the chase, dash on to the fight, Cry Vengeance for Texas ! and God speed the richt. 4 38 As soon as the intelligence of the critical situation of the Ameri- can army on the Rio Grande reached Texas, and Gen. Taylor's call for volunteers was heard throughout the boundaries of the new state, the spirit of patriotism and martial glory which had burned so brightly and so long during the darkest periods of the *' Star Republic's" history, burst forth anew to gleam as brightly as in the days of its infant liberty. On the western frontier — that portion of the state nearest the seat of war — preparations for the campaign were most active and most earnest. No mock show of the pomp and pageantry of war was seen — no tap of spirit-stirring drum, or note of piercing fife — no trumpet-call, or bugle sound, was heard on the bor- der side. But there was wiping of rifles and moulding of bullets — cleaning of pistols and grinding of knives — packing of wallets and saddling of steeds ; in short, every step of preparation made, amid the encouraging smiles of mothers, wives, and sisters, who cheerfully came forth to lend their aid, making wallets, and moulding leaden messengers of death, giving evidence that the frontier men knew full well the importance of the duty which they had to perform ; and every movement which they made was an earnest that that duty would be gallantly done. In thirty-six hours after the express arrived, Capt. Ben McCul- loch had raised a choice company on the banks of the Guadaloupe, and set out for the seat of hostilities. This company was perhaps the best mounted, armed, equipped, and appointed corps that was out in the ranging service ; and from the time of its arrival at head-quarters until after its disbandment at Monterey, enjoyed more of the trust and confidence of the commanding general than any other volunteer company of the invading army. To this company we had the honour to belong ; and in venturing to give a detail of some of the expeditions in which it was engaged, we shall make the account most faithful and true. On the 13th of May we arrived at San Patricio, and received the news, much to our chagrin and disappointment, of the engage- ments of the 8th and 9th. We had hoped to have reached the army before a battle would be fought, but the distance we had to ride, although making forced marches, rendered it impossible for us to have done so. But although we were not able to participate in and share the glories of the 8th and 9th, we joyed to learn that Walker and his men had won imperishable renown. With the hope of still being in time to join in the pursuit of the defeated army, we hurried on to Corpus Christi, and the next day took up the line of march down Padre's Island to Point Isabel. Our way, after leaving Corpus Christi, lay along the sea-shore of the main land, until we came to the ford, which we were compelled to cross m before we reached the island. The crossing-place is about twenty miles distant from Corpus Christi, and is certainly the last place in the world a stranger would have supposed to be a ford. The Laguna del Sladre, an arm of the sea which separates the island from the main, is here about five miles wide, and it really looks like going to sea on horseback when you wade off from the land, and direct your course for the dimly seen shores of the island. The waves beat up against our horses' sides, and it was only with much difficulty that we could preserve our fire-arms from contact with the salt water. The water was so deep that it reached almost to our saddle-bows, and several of our horses nar- rowly escaped being bogged in the quicksands, which lie in dan- gerous proximity to the course of the ford. We waded across, however, without any serious mishap, and encamped near night- fall on the extreme northern point of the island. The next morn- ing, by the dawn of day, we were on the march along the sea-beaten coast. The island is uninhabited save by one old man, who follows the business of a wrecker, and fives not far from Point Isabel, in a wild-looking place, which he cafis, after himself, " Tilley's Camp." To describe one day's travel on this island will be sufficient. Starting early in the morning, and riding until mid-day, we would stop to noon it, i. e. to cook our provi- sions and graze our horses ; resting an hour or two, we would then continue our way along the interminable beach until we pitched our camp at night. This monotonous course was pursued from day to day, and never were a set of men or horses more heartily tired of any one portion of this earth's surface, than we and our steeds were of Padre's Island. The island is one hundred and twenty-five miles long, and averages only a mile in width, con- taining no sign of vegetation, save a species of sour wiry grass, which our horses would only eat when compelled by hunger. There is not a single tree throughout its whole extent. On all sides is to be seen sand hillocks and sand wastes ; and, taken altogether, it is one of the most gloomy and desolate looking places which it has ever been our bad fortune to visit. It seemed to us to be a long shoe from the western coast of the desert of Sahara, detached by some convulsion of nature, and floated over and anchored on the eastern shore of Mexico. How any human being could ever voluntarily choose it as a place of residence, we cannot conceive. Yet old " Uncle Tiliey" lives there, and em- ploys himself in gathering the wrecks of cargoes with which the beach is strewn, seeming perfectly happy in his loneliness, the undisputed lord of this desert isle. It is said, though since the commencement of the Mexican war, that a small tribe of Indians — the Carankawas — who once resided 40 THE CARANKAWAS INDIANS. on the shores of Matagorda bay, have removed to this island, and perhaps will yet dispute the " right of occupancy" with " Uncle Tilley." The history of this tribe is a most singular one. Driven along the shores of Texas by the tide of Avhite emigration, they have found in every other Indian tribe implacable foes. Pressed on by the whites, pursued and hunted down by the Mexicans, de- feated and cut to pieces by the Comanches, Lipans, and other prairie Indians, wherever they were caught upon the plains ; they gained a scanty subsistence by gathering oysters along the sea- shore, and fishing in the bays. They finally pitched upon Mata- gorda bay, as a place of residence, but were again driven out by the Texians, who rapidly settled along the shores. To be perse- cuted and oppressed, to be down-trodden and insulted, seemed to be the unhappy fate of this miserable race ; until, driven to despe- ration by their suiferings, they resolved to put an end to their name and race forever. Murdering their women and children, the war- riors sought for some uninhabited island, where they could wait patiently for that death which was for ever to destro}?- all traces of their tribe. It is now said, they have chosen Padre's Island as a suitable spot to hnger out the remnant of their miserable lives, and make their lonely graves. About 12 o'clock on the morning of the 19th of May, we came in sight of the shipping lying at Point Isabel ; and never was the sight of masts and yards more welcome to a land-sick mariner, than were these signs of life and civilization to eyes which had for nearly a week gazed upon nothing but one dreary waste of sand and sea. We found on the point of the island several tents which were occupied by boatmen, who ferried passengers over to Point Isabel, and by one of these ferrymen, we informed the offi- cers at the fort of our arrival, and signified our desire to cross im- mediately. Taking advantage of the departure of the boat, several of us left our horses in the care of our messmates, and embarked at once for the Point. The httle craft, favoured by a fair wind, sped mer- rily over the smooth waters of the bay, and soon landed us at the long wished-for place of destination. Fort Polk, Frontone, or Point Isabel, has already been described. We found every thing in a state of excitement, and everybody apparently busy. Every- where bustle and business prevailed, but the movements of every one were controlled by strict order and discipline. Every thing was pleasant to look upon. But more pleasant to our eyes than gay uniforms or glittering arms, snow-white tents, or banners fluttering in the breeze, was the sight of some old familiar faces, which we had not gazed upon for years, but which were the first to welcome us with smiles to the soil of Mexico, and greet us warmly in a PALO ALTO AND RESACA DE LA PALMA. 41 strange land, with the long unheard, but unforgotten accents of home. We found ourself, through the kindness of a relative, who was at that time attached to the suttler's department, comfortably- quartered within doors, and although fearing to expose our health by sleeping under a roof, and shut up in a close house, yet we managed to do justice to the good things which graced his table, with an energy which would have tasked most landlords' hospi- tahty to the utmost. The sea breeze, hard riding, and short rations, are wonderful aids to the appetite, and we had enjoyed all these so long that we possessed one so keen and importunate, that it would not have disgraced a Comanche gourmand. Salt air and brackish water make a decided impression, also, upon the organs of thirst ; and if you add to this the temperature of the weather at about 90°, it is not wonderful that we abandoned the vulgar drinks of bad brandy and execrable whisky, adulterated with salt water, and took to iced sherry cobblers with remarkable avidity. But good things, like the pleasant times of this world, have only a short duration, and our enjoyments at Point Isabel lasted only a few short days. On the afternoon of the 22d, we were ordered to move to Mata- moras, and taking up our march, encamped the same night at the first battle-ground — the much talked-of field of Palo Alto. We threw out our line of sentinels, and spread our blankets under some of the bushes, expecting to obtain rest and sleep ; but whe- ther it was the woful reflections conjured up by our thoughts run- ning upon the terrible scenes of bloodshed and slaughter, so lately- enacted here, or that the musquitoes and gallinippers, rendered pugnacious by association, continued their bloody attacks and in- cessant charges upon us, biting us intolerably from dark until day, that prevented us from closing our eyes in sleep that night, we do not know. It might have been our reflections on the battle-ground, but we rather think from the way the old campaigners grumbled, that it was the musquitoes. General W^orth and staff' passed our camp at midnight on their way to Matamoras. The next day, as early as possible, we were in our saddles, and marching to the same point. At about 12 o'clock, we arrived at Resaca de la Palma, which still bore the fresh signs of recent and terrible conflict. Strewn about on every side were the hats, cartridge-boxes, belts, broken bayonets, and torn and bloody garments of the Mexican soldiery; while the free fresh air of heaven was tainted by the horrible effluvia arising from the dead bodies of horses, mules, and oxen which lay on every side. To avoid inhaling the " horrid incense" of the battle- field, we rode on, leaving the wolves and carrion birds to gorge 4* 42 MATAMORAS. and batten undisturbed upon the dainty feast prepared for their re- volting appetites by man. Terrible and sad as are the scenes of savage or civilized warfare ; awful as are its sights and sounds, it hath no sadder or more soul-chiUing sight, than the lonely, deserted battle-field; no more disgusting, heart-freezing souiids, than the snarl and growl of the wild wolf, as he tears his helpless prey, or the flapping wings and discordant cry of the carrion bird, as he stoops to his hateful feast. Matamoras ! Matamoras ! was shouted along the line as we came in sight of the town we had so ardently desired to see. And far in the distance, with its white walls and turrets gleaming in the sunlight, with the American flag floating proudly over it, we beheld the first Mexican town captured by American arms. Mex- ican towns are all magnificent at a distance ; but you must not ap- proach too closely, unless you wish to find, in many of them, all your beautiful dreams of Moorish palaces and Oriental gardens, orange groves, and shady avenues immediately fade away, and in their place, cherish recollections of rude mud-built houses, plas- tered and whitewashed ; windows without glass, hot dusty streets, and a dirty, lazy, and most unpoetical-looking set of inhabitants. As we approached the river bank, drums were beating and fifes blowing, and on all sides were noise and excitement ; flags flut- tering, arms gleaming, teamsters cursing at their unruly animals ; soldiers drilling, dogs barking, and Mexican hucksters bawhng their goods at their voices' tops. Pursuing our way through the various groups which lined the road side, we rode by several com- panies, who presented arms as we passed, and returning their salute, we proceeded to our quarters, which were almost directly under the walls of Fort Brown. Here we found Walker's and Price's companies of Rangers encamped, and here we constructed our tents for the present, — constructed, we say, because the go- vernment never furnished us, during our whole term of service, w;ith a patch of canvass large enough to keep out a drop, of rain, or shield us from a ray of the scorching sun. Whether it was because they thought the Texian troops were accustomed to, and could endure more hardships than any other troops in the field, we do not know. One thing is certain, they gave us as ample an oppor- tunity to evince our greatest powers of endurance and fortitude as the disciples of Diogenes could have desired, had they been placed in our room and stead. We were left to shift for ourselves, wholly unprovided with tents, camp equipage, or cooking utensils. Had we been allowed to appropriate to our own use the unoccupied houses of the enemy, we would have asked no favours from friend or foe ; but while the strictest injunctions were laid upon us, in regard to the property of the Mexicans, we were charitably left SCOUT TOWARDS LINARES. 43 to brave unsheltered as much of the sun and rain as heaven pleased to send upon us. The consequence was, that wherever we were encamped for any length of time, we were obliged to construct rude shelters out of poles, cane, rushes, or any other material which the vicinity afforded. And the Rangers' camp frequently looked r lore like a collection of huts in a Hottentot hamlet, or a group ot rude wigwams in an Indian village, than the regular cantonment of volunteers in the service of the United States. We remained in camp at Matamoras, until the 12th of June, when we received orders to follow the trail of Arista's army as far as practicable — pierce the country in the direction of Linares, to ascertain the condition of the road, the quantity of water, &c. — in short, to discover if the route could possibly be used for the line of march for a large division, with its artillery and wagons, intended to penetrate the enemy's country in this direction. Much rejoiced at this prospect of active service, we saddled up with light hearts and willing hands ; and in a few hours after the order was received, we were ready for the journey. On the morning of the 12th, we were busily engaged in trans- porting ourselves and horses across the Rio Grande to the Mata- moras side. The ferry boats used for this purpose were the same formerly employed by the Mexicans at this point, — and poorer apologies for ferry boats than these were, can scarcely be imagined. You might cross half the rivers in the world, and never look upon their like again — clumsy, leaky barges, that threatened every mo- ment to go to the bottom, and promised to deposit their cargoes anywhere but on the opposite bank. At 12 o'clock, had crossed the whole command, and we moved through the town of Mata- moras, to commence our scout. To throw upon the wrong scent any Mexican spies who might be watching our movements, Capt. McCuUoch took the direct road to Reynoso, as if he intended to join Col. Wilson's command, which was stationed at that post. ' Accordingly, we encamped that night, at the Rancho de Guade- loupe, and feasted on roasting-ears, water-melons, musk-melons, and every vegetable luxury that the rancho afforded. The most of us had a little pocket-change, and we drove a lively trade with the Mexicans, for all the eatables they could bring to our camp. Our orders were most strict as regarded our intercourse with the Mexicans, and we were enjoined to take nothing with- out giving an adequate compensation. Our government was wise enough to suppose that they could conquer the Mexicans by kindness, and force them to a speedy cessation of hostihties, by affording them a ready market for every thing they could ra^'^se, and paying enormous prices for every thing we obtained at their hands. The pohcy of the government was to concihate the peo- 44 ADVENTURES ON THE LINARES ROAD. pie. How absurd that policy has been, the experience of the cam- paign has since exhibited. To us, however, the policy of the government was nothing. Our second-lieutenant, James Allen, acting-commissary, had his saddle-bags well filled with specie, to purchase all the forage and provisions we needed on the road. Our orders were most strict, and most strictly did we obey them ; and, as far as our own knowledge extends, we do not know of an instance where a single article was procured without they were remunerated by more than twice its value. The next morning, after leaving the rancho, we followed the Reynoso road until we were out of sight of the rancheros ; then altering our course to the south, struck across to the Linares road. This was the route fol- lowed by Arista's army in its flight, and he seemed to have chosen it because it was the one least likely to be followed by the Ameri- cans in pursuit. It leads over a rough barren country, which is nearly destitute of water, and is almost impracticable for an army, which is compelled to move like ours, accompanied by large trains of heavy baggage wagons. During the day, the horse of one of our party became so lame that it was found impossible for him to proceed further, and the man was consequently compelled to return to Matamoras. The incidents of the day were rather of a cooling than an exciting nature, for we were visited by frequent showers of rain, which soaked us to the skin. But although it thoroughly wetted our bodies, it could not dampen our spirits, and we rode on our way as merrily, with song, and laugh, and jest, as if, instead of riding on a perilous scout, we had been gayly trooping to a wedding or a fair. Just before daylight, on the third morning after our departure, our sentinels challenged a party of Mexicans who were travelling to Matamoras. Our camp was immediately upon the road-side, and of course no one could travel it without our knowledge and consent. Capt. McCulloch and several of the men were saddling the horses previous to an early start, and when the sentinel hailed, McCulloch rode out to see the party. "Quien vive?" challenged the leader of the ranchero party. " Amigos," replied McCulloch, riding up. "Nuestros amigos — los malditos Americanos," cried the ranchero, presenting his escopette at McCul- loch's breast. " Saddle up, men, and follow me !" shouted he, as he charged at once into the astonished group of Mexicans. They fled in consternation at finding a large party, where they expected to see only a few men, and bolted at top speed for the chaparral, which was only a few hundred yards distant from the road. Right happy was it for them that they possessed so much the advantage of the start, and a knowledge of the ground over which they ran, for there was hot blood at their heels, and half a dozen reckless fellows, mounted on the fleetest horses in the company, followed VESTIGES OF A MEXICAN CAMP. 45 our captain, in the mad pursuit. The ground was so uneven, and full of holes, that several of our horses fell in the chase ; and this, together with the want of sufficient light, enabled them to effect their escape. But so hotly were they pressed, that several of them abandoned their horses, guns, pistols, spurs, and in fact every thing that could be dropped, and took to the chaparral on foot, where they were safe, as we could not follow them into it on horseback. The pursuing party returned to camp with the booty, after finding that further pursuit was useless; and much was our disappointment, afterwards, on learning that one of the fugitives was the murderer of Col. Cross, — the notorious ranchero chief and robber. Bias Falcon. One of the young men who was fore- most in the chase, was so severely injured by falling upon his knife, when his horse fell under him, as to render it impossible for him to proceed further; and as we had already passed several ranchos, it was deemed prudent to send several men with him, as an escort to Matamoras. This reduced our party to thirty-five, all told, for we had only selected forty of the best mounted men in the company for this expedition. " It would be difiicult," says Mr. Kendall, who was one of our party, " to picture the astonishment and alarm at the different ranchos, as the Rangers entered them ; or the conster- nation of those upon whom we came suddenly upon the road. By forced night marches, our commander frequently got upon the other side of some of the settlements, and rode into them, as if direct from Monterey or Linares, and going towards Matamoras. By doubling and twisting about, they were thrown completely off the scent, and were willing to answer any questions with a readi- ness which showed that they thought life or death depended upon their alacrity." At El Ebonilla, we procured a supply of corn, sufficient to last our horses for two days. We here also received the unwelcome intelhgence, that there were no more ranchos on the road at which this important article could be obtained. We pushed on as far as we could make the supply last, and on the road met many parties of Mexicans, whose evident alarm and surprise convinced us that we were unlooked-for travellers in this part of the country. We passed several of the camps where Arista had rested his army, during its rapid retreat to Linares. The camping place was al- ways marked by the rags, and old worn-out shoes and sandals that the soldiers had left behind ; and occasionally the ground was strewn with stray cards from a montepack, showing that even in their hasty flight they had found time to indulge in that passion, which is most deeply seated in a Mexican's nature — the love of gambling. 46 Our camp, on the night of the 20th of June, was in a pleasant musquit-grove, while the ground around it afforded ample pastur- age for our horses. We had learned the day before, from some Mexican shepherds, that there was no water to be found on the road, from this point to Linares, a distance of about sixty miles. Capt. McCuUoch thought it advisable to ascertain this fact, before he proceeded farther, and accordingly despatched Lieut. McMul- len with ten men, to a water-hole about ten miles ahead, that was marked as unfailing, to discover if our informants or our map of the country were wrong. Lieut. McMullen pushed on to the water-hole, and found it dry, and then riding within thirty miles of Linares, returned with the unwelcome intelligence to camp. This was the first instance in which we had discovered a mistake in our chart, it being for the most part admirably correct. The map was furnished to Capt. McCulloch by Gen. Taylor, being an accurate copy of the one found in Gen. Arista's military chest, captured at the battle of Resaca de la Palma. It was a most minute and accurate picture of the face of the country, between the Rio Grande and the " Sierra del Madre," and every rancho and village, every road or mountain path, every water-pond and insignificant streamlet were marked down with a truthfulness and precision, which we found but rarely at fault, and which, consi- dering the vast extent of country it represented, was really aston- ishing. The map was common property in camp, and we all studied it so well that we soon had a thorough knowledge of the face and bearing of the whole country, stretching from the moun- tain ridges to the waters of the Rio Grande. This knowledge was of much importance to all of us ; as frequently during our scouts a separation of the command was unavoidable, and often a single man would have to depend upon his own knowledge and skill, to pilot himself through many miles of a wilderness into camp. Finding it impossible to proceed much farther in this direction, and having ascertained that this route was impracticable as a line of march for a large division of our army, on account of the scar- city of water, our captain determined to leave the Linares road, and strike across to the main road, leading from Matamoras to Monterey. The result of the reconnoissance on the Linares road was as follows : — First, that this route from Matamoras to Monte- rey was not as practicable a one for the advance of our troops, when they sought to penetrate to the mountains, as the route via Comargo and Serralvo. Secondly, that Arista had removed the greater portion of his forces from Linares to Monterey, leaving a garrison in the former place of 1000 infantry, and a few squadrons of cavalry ; and, lastly, that Gen. Canales was at that time en- A HOT DAY IN JUNE. 47 gaged in recruiting rancheros, not far from us on the Monterey- road. To strike the " chaparral fox" in his own hills — slaughter his band, and take " reynard" himself captive, was a thing above all others McCulloch most desired to do. So, having accomplish- ed his commands, in regard to the information above mentioned, he determined to strike suddenly across to the Monterey road, and endeavour to obtain a fight, or a foot-race, out of the ranchero general. On the morning of the 21st, then, our course was changed, and we rode off at a right angle from our former route. A Mexican shepherd whom we forced to accompany us as a guide, warned us, that in the direction we were going we would find no water, and advised us to follow another course, which he said would lead to the same point, and that though the way was longer, still it was plentifully suppHed with water-holes. The road he pointed out did not lead in exactly the direction we thought we ought to travel, and not having implicit confidence in the honesty of his intentions, he was ordered peremptorily to lead us on the first-named course. On we vamosed over high rocky hills and immense level plains, through thicket and brake, over dingle and dell ; sometimes passing along hill sides thickly covered with wesatchee bushes, (the acacia,) which were all in full bloom, and the modest httle yellow flowers gave to the morning air a fragrance which was dehghtful to inhale. Sometimes we followed the trail of innumerable droves of wild horses that roamed in freedom over this immense range of waste country. Sometimes we travelled for miles, without a single sign to guide us over the untrodden hills, but the position of the sun in the heavens, and a knowledge of the course we wished to pursue. The 21st of June, we shall long remember as a day of great suffering and fatigue. It was the longest day in the year, and by far the hottest we ever experienced ; to add, too, to our misery, there was not a single breath of air to fan our burning brows, or cool our fevered cheeks. A vertical sun poured down his fiery rays upon us the live-long day, without even once veiling his fierce glare by the shadow of a passing cloud. "Hot! hot! hot !" would ejaculate some half-fainting one. " You had better say, ' scorching and roasting,' " retorted his file-leader. " By the forge of Vulcan," drawled a classical youth, whose love of the romantic had led him to join the Rangers — " By the forge of Vulcan, the weather is intensely warm." "I don't know what blacksmith you are talking about, young- ster," growled an old Ranger at his side ; " but if you'd say that a volcano was an ice-house to this place, you'd come nigher the mark, I reckon." 48 THE WATER-HOLE. The weather was so unmercifully hot, that to prevent our horses' backs from scalding, we had frequently to dismount, and unsaddle, and rub them dry before we could proceed. The poor beasts seemed to feel the heat more sensibly, if possible, than we did. The tardy step, the half-closed eye, the drooping head, and the panting and expanded nostril, plainly manifested the degree and extent of their sufferings. Water was demanded on every side. We had emptied our gourds and canteens of their con- tents early in the day, and were now suffering intolerably from thirst. " Water ! can't that infernal guide find us water ?" shouted a voice in the rear. " Keep quiet there, men," said McCulIoch ; " scatter out on both sides of the road, and see if you can find a water-hole." The order was promptly obeyed, and the men rode off' in all di- rections to prosecute the search. The sun was about half an hour high, when a horseman came galloping up with the joyful news that he had found a water-hole about half a mile to the right. Helter-skelter, without order the party scampered off to reach the quenching nectar of their burn- ing thirst. It was a wild, hard race, but McCulloch reached it first, and dismounting, threatened to shoot the first man that rode into the pond. The water-hole was a mere mud-puddle at best, and could not have contained much over a hogshead of water; so that, had not our captain taken the precautions he did, it would not have sufficed for half of the company. For man and beast had suffered so much for want of water, that when they did reach it, they were inclined to rush into the middle of the pond, which would have rendered it unfit, even for the animals. The order was now given for every man to dismount and fill his can- teen and gourd, and drink sufficient to satisfy himself ; after- wards the horses were led up to the edge, and allowed to drink without muddying the water. Notwithstanding it was stagnant and lukewarm, it was drunk with avidity. The pack-mules' turn came next, but they were not so easily managed, for in spite of our exertions, two or three broke away, and after running into the middle of the little pond, and taking their fill, they rolled over and over into the mud, seeming to enjoy extremely the pleasures of the bath. Luckily for them, we had all drunk as much as we wanted, or the poor beasts would have paid dearly for their pleasure. Several of the men, who had wandered about during the day in search of water, had eaten large quantities of the ripe prickly pear, which grows in great abundance all over the country. The fruit is much in shape hke a pear, of a blood red colour, very A MAJOR IN THE RANKS. 4§ juicy, and full of small seeds ; the outside is covered with fine furz, which is sharper to the touch than the points of fine cam- bric needles. Those who had thus indulged, paid dearly for it — for that night they were taken down with a violent fever and ague, which this fruit invariably produces on those who have not be- come acclimated. The guard was posted, and as we spread our blankets down that night, after the severe day's travel, we congratulated each other on the pleasant night we would pass after all our fatigue. In truth it was a peerless night; there was not a single cloud to mar the deep blue of the boundless sky, and the moon's bright orb, like some vast silver shield hung midway in the vault of heaven, shedding a world of light upon the quiet scene. It chanced that we had spread our blanket down by the side of one of our messmates, who was a veteran of the Texas wars. Major R. was among the first who emigrated from Kentucky to Texas. He had commanded a company at San Jacinto ; fought through the Federal war, was Lieutenant-colonel at the " Parbon fight," and now, with the unasking modesty and unambitious zeal of a true Texian, had, when his country needed his services, come out at her call, as a simple private in a ranging corps. The Major was a fine companion, and a specimen of the gallantry and chivalry of "olden days." He had been through the "tug of war," and as he expressed it, " having seen the elephant, he was now going to see the ca-r«-van." It happened that we were provided with a water-proof cloth, which, upon this occasion, we proposed to spread over both the Major and ourself, to keep off the heavy dews. The Major readily accepted the proposition, and we " spooned" up together as affectionately as possible. About mid- night we were awakened by a tremendous thunder peal, and found that a storm had been brewing during our sleep; the sky was as black as ink, and the rain coming down in torrents; we drew our head under the water-proof, and were piously engaged in praying for those poor fellows who were exposed to the fury of the storm, without any shelter whatever, when we suddenly felt a httle rivulet commence its meanderings under the very spot where our blankets were spread. The "windows of heaven were opened," and the flood still continued to rise higher and higher. The under blanket was now completely saturated, and the water still continued to rise. We discovered that we were lying in a litile gully which was rapidly filling, but bore our affliction as quietly as possible, and without murmuring, being ashamed to grumble while the Major slept so soundly. But it was past endurance, for the water had now risen half way up our side, filling our powder-horn, which was unfortunately unstopped, and 6 60 A WET NIGHT IN CAMP. becoming desperate, we awoke the Major, and asked him if it would not be advisable to shift our quarters ? Stopping one of his long snores, with a loud snort, the Major showed his head from under cover, and inquired what we wanted. "Bless me," cried he in the same breath, "why, it is raining ! The ground is getting damp too." "We think it is, Major, and if we don't leave this pretty- soon, we shall be washed off. Let's move to some dryer place." "Lie down, 'Jim,' lie down and go to sleep. Don't you see that we have got this puddle of water warm now, by the heat of our bodies, and if we move, we shall only get into another, and take cold. So lie down, ' Jhn,' and go to sleep ; it's nothing when you get used to it." We could not but admire the Major's philosophy, but, notwith- standing, we had not yet become a sufficient convert of hydropathy as to sleep in the v)arm puddle! So taking up our blanket, much against the Major's will, we sat down at the foot of a tree, and slept for the remainder of the night in that position. That a man can sleep, and soundly too, half immersed in water, may seem strange to those who have never spent much time in the woods ; but to those who are well acquainted with a frontier life, it appears natural enough, and we can assure the skeptical, that the forego- ing anecdote is literally true. The next morning, as soon as our blankets \yere sufficiently dry, we mounted, and again advanced towards the Monterey road. Our way now lay for the most part across bald and rocky hills. About noon we came upon a little pond in the hills, which was stagnant, the surface covered with a green scum, and the water itself almost warm enough to make coffee. Yet as none better was to be had, we were obliged to drink it, and notwithstand- ing its nauseousness, it served to quench our thirst. Shortly after leaving this pond we came in sight of the Monterey road, and by our sudden descent from the hills, alarmed a merchant very much, who was carting his goods to Monterey. That we were a band of robbers he was quite sure at first, from our appearance, and great was his delight when he found out his mistake. We pur- chased some corn from his carts, and also procured a supply of dried beef. While "nooning it" at the carts, a solitary horseman turned the angle of the road, about a quarter of a mile ahead of us, and halted in evident alarm, when he saw the bad company he was about to fall in with on his road. He was about to turn and fly, when he perceived about a dozen of the boys mounting to seek his company, so mustering up his courage he concluded to venture boldly into our camp, as escape was out of the question. As the horseman rode up, his salute was returned, and before he THE MAIL ROBBERY. 51 could well make an excuse, which was hanging on his lips, he was immediately interrupted by a shout of "the mail rider!" the bag which he carried having betrayed him. It proved to be the Mexican mail from Monterey to Matamoras. The poor fellow thought his time had come. Our captain overhauling the mail, the letters were opened and examined, and such of them as were of a public nature were reserved for General TajHor's inspection; the rest were returned to the bag, when the man was allowed to proceed quietly on his route. His disappointment was so great in not being shot, that he made light of losing his letters, and mount- ing his pony, with a bland smile, bade us good-day. This was the first and only mail robbery in which we ever were engaged, and we had no idea before how easy the recollection of the evil deed would rest upon a man's conscience. We were unable to gain any farther information about Canales, only that he had been on this road about a week ago ; but of his pre- sent whereabouts we could not gain the slightest clew. So finding it useless to follow a cold trail, Captain McCulloch, in pursuance of his orders, turned his course towards Reynoso. As we drew near the town, which was yet in the distance, we could plainly hear the beating of the drums marshaling the garrison to arms. The fiat-house tops were covered with men and officers ; the latter were spying with their glasses and endeavouring to make out our character and number. To see a body of armed men approaching from the very quarter in which they expected the enemy, was enough to excite apprehensions of an attack. And as we rode into town as if direct from Monterey, the garrison very naturally mistook us for the advance guard of a Mexican force. We en- joyed their mistake very much, and as we dismounted in the plaza, the officers came out to greet us, saying that having at first mistrusted us, they were preparing to give us a warm welcomey instead of a hearty greeting. A few days after this, we learned that Canales had, at one time, been within a few miles of us, with a force of several hundred men. " That he was aware," says Mr. Kendall, in one of his letters, "of Capt. McCulloch being in his neighbourhood, there is but little doubt ; but whether he was unable to catch up with the hurried and comphcated movements of the Texians, or fearful of giving them battle, is more than this deponent can say. I say hur- ried and complicated movements of the Texians, because, from the time of our leaving Matamoras, to our reaching this place, the men never took off their coats, boots, or spurs ; not an extra or second shirt was carried by one of them; and although the wea- ther was rainy much of the time, and two heavy northers visited 62 CAMP AT REYNOSO. US while encamped, there was not a minute when any man's pistol or rifle would have missed fire, or he would not have been up and ready for an attack. I have seen a goodly number of volunlers in my time, but Capt. Ben. McCulloch's men are choice specimens." We encamped under some shade trees, on the outskirts of the village of Reynoso, and thus ended the first scout in which our company was engaged. CHAPTER VI. Camp at Reynoso — Scenes and Incidents — An Express leaves for Matamo- ras — Lieut. McMuUen left in Command — Attempt to capture Canales at a Fandango — The Festival of St. Juan — The Chicken Race — Celebration of the Fourth of July — Pursuit of a Band of Robbers — The Arrival of the remainder of the Company at Reynoso — Our March to Comargo — Bill Dean's Story — Arrival at Comargo. The first few days that we were encamped near Reynoso, our ears were constantly assailed with rumours of contemplated night attacks, and horrible accounts of the weight of Mexican vengeance which was about to be visited upon our heads, for having dared to take possession of this pompous little village. At one time, we would be told by the bright-eyed Senoras — who, with pitying looks and confiding accents, whispered their doleful tales into our unbe- lieving ears — that Col. Juan Seguin, with all his valiant followers, would pounce upon us that very night ; yes, that very night, and as sure as fate, cut all our throats from ear to ear. " Holy Mother of God, how horrible !" And the sweet creatures would go weep- ing away, as if they reall}'- beHeved every word they had told us was true. The next day, it was not Juan Seguin, but Gen. Canales, with his gallant rancheros who was to exterminate us ; and when nei- ther of these made his appearance, it was some other redoubtable champion of Mexican liberty that was to sweep us from the face of the earth, and destroy our whole force effectually and entirely. But finding that their dreadful accounts of threatened attacks, and their confidential statements of the number and force of the over- whelming army that was shortly to extirpate us, produced no other effect in camp than to increase our merriment ; and their pruden- tial advice, so far from causing us to double our precautions, or place an extra man on duty, was received only with derision and contempt, they determined to abandon us to our fate as a set of POPULATION OF REYNOSO. 53 hardened wretches, entirely too old to be either harassed or an- noyed by crediting false stories, or believing false alarms. We afterwards learned that they had been playing the same game on Col. Wilson, and for some time previous to our arrival the colo- nel had had his command on double duty, fearful, from the in- formation he daily received from the friendly toivn-people, that there was a large Mexican force in his immediate neighbourhood, only waiting a favourable moment to sweep down on him like an avalanche. So deep and inveterate was the hatred cherished by the people of this place against the Americans, that they resorted to these means as a plan to harass and annoy our troops, when they found no other mode left them to gratify their spite and ill-will. From all we could learn of its history, its population, and its reputation, we were disposed to consider the town of Reynoso as the most rascally place in all Mexico. The town itself is well enough, but the inhabitants are a set of the most irreclaimable scoundrels that are to be found anywhere in the valley of the Rio Grande — a race of brigands, whose avowed occupation is rapine and murder. It was here that the Mier prisoners were treated so inhumanly, as they were marched through on their way to the Castle of Perote ; the men cursing and stoning them, as they moved through the streets, and the women spitting on them, with all the malice of she-wolves. It was this place, too, that many of the robbing par- ties which ravaged the Texian frontier acknowledged as their head-quarters. And some of the scoundrels who were engaged in the " Rogers' massacre," lived here in peace and security. Yes! some of the incarnate fiends, who had committed the most horrible outrages and atrocities upon the members of that most unfortunate family, boldly walked the streets of Reynoso, and with the most consummate impudence, seemed fond of parading themselves di- rectly before our ver}-- eyes. Yet, such was the mild forbearance, and gentle conciliatory policy of our government towards this people, that we were not allowed to apprehend and punish these villains as they deserved, or visit upon them the speedy and terrible ven- geance they so richly merited from Texian hands. Our orders were most strict not to molest any unarmed Mexican, and if some of the most notorious of these villains were found shot, or hung up in the chaparral, during our visit to Reynoso, the go- vernment was charitably bound to suppose, that during some fit of remorse and desperation, tortured by conscience for the many evil deeds they had committed, they had recklessly laid violent hands tipon their otvn lives! " Quien sabe ?" The steamboat "Aid" having arrived, and discharged her cargo 5* 54 A NIGHT IN CAMP. of army stores, was about to return to Matamoras, when Captain McCulloch, Mr. Kendall, and a few others, determined to go down in her; Capt. McC. to conduct the rest of the company from Matamoras to Reynoso, and Mr. Kendall to seek more comfortable quarters than Reynoso afforded. The following description of our situation in camp was written by him, the night previous to his departure : — " But if Reynoso was not beleaguered by armed men, and if no villanous saltpetre was burnt, nor lead thrown, we passed any thing but a comfortable night of it. The early part was most dis- agreeably hot and sultry — enough of itself to prevent sleep, although we were encamped out of doors, and on the hard ground ; but to add to this, every dog in the town kept up a most incessant barking, and each separate whelp seemed engaged in an attempt to out- bark and out-howl his neighbour. How many dogs there are in Reynoso, 1 have no means of ascertaining, there being no tax upon the curs, nor any statistics from which correct information can be obtained ; yet, as the number of inhabitants is put down at 3000, I should think that by multiplying them by 750 — ^judging from the noise they make altogether — you might get somewhere in the neigh- bourhood of the number of dogs. When we have no positive data to go upon, we are obliged to resort to guess-work. Well, these ras- cally whelps barked away the hours until a rain-storm came up, and then we had a thunder gust for an accompaniment. Pleasant country, this ! but rather hard on that portion of the American people this side the Rio Grande. Do you know that I sometimes think of the St. Charles, the Verandah, and of Hewlett's — their sumptuous dinners and comfortable beds ! "Yet, with all the drawbacks above enumerated, we still made out to nap it awhile, towards morning. I could not help laughing at a young Ranger, whose blanket was within good hearing distance of mine. ' Well,' said he, 'if I'd been told when I left Mississippi, a year ago last Spring, by any one of my particular friends, that I could ever sleep in this w^ay — that I could ever catch a wink with all my clothes on, belted round with two pistols and a bovvie, boots on, and spurs to boot, — out doors, on the ground, and in a single blanket, and raining at that, I'd a told him that he lied, sure.* It's pretty much so." After the departure of Capt. McCulloch, the command of our party devolved upon Lieut. McMullen, and upon a better officer it could not have fallen. A few days after, two officers of the Mexican army were apprehended in Reynoso, and detained as spies, until the commands of Gen. Taylor in regard to them could be obtained. McMullen was called upon by Col. Wilson to fur- ,. J A soldier's quarters. 55 nish men to bear an express to Matamoras, and accordingly five men, under Sergt. Gibson, were detailed for this duty. This reduced our party to about twentj'^-five men. The rainy season in Mexico had now set in; our camp, which was near the river bank, was soon ankle deep in mud ; the heavy rain continued to fall incessantly ; we were unable to cook our food, or to sleep with any degree of comfort, for our clothes and blankets were tho- roughly saturated with water nij^ht and day. Lieut. McMullen represented the unpleasantness of our situation to Col. Wilson, and entreated him to allow us to occupy some of the untenanted sheds in the outskirts of the town. " My orders are positive, sir," replied the colonel, " and I cannot suffer any Mexican domiciles to be encroached upon. The quarters of a soldier, sir, in time of war, is the field." And having delivered himself of this pertinent speech, the colonel walked into his quarters^ a comfortable stone house — the best one in the place. We remained in our miserable quarters, which were now par- tially overflowed, for another day and night, and which we chris- tened "Camp Nasty," when the men became mutinous, and swore they would remain there no longer to please Col. Wilson, or anybody else. Lieut. McMullen went up again to the colonel to inform him that there was a large and comfortable cotton-gin shed on the opposite side of the town, which belonged to a colonel in the Mexican army, which was at that time unoccupied, and capable of giving ample shelter to ourselves and horses. Col. Wilson replied that " he could not think of allowing us to take possession of any thing that belonged to the Mexicans, unless they consented to it, as it was directly contrary to the policy of the government." McMullen then desired that he would suffer him to remove the company ten or fifteen miles into the country, to find a higher and drier camping place. This he said was too hazardous, as we might be cut off; besides, he wanted our ser- vices in case the town should be attacked. After, however, a formal demand, in writing, for quarters, the cotton-gin shed was reluctantly granted to us. We marched into it in triumph, and a few days afterwards we had the pleasure of swimming our horse over the very spot where we were formerly encamped. A three weeks' rain continued to deluge the earth ; the Rio Grande overflowed its banks, and the country around Reynoso was one vast sheet of water. But we cared very little for the rain, as we were now posted in the most comfortable quarters that had been enjoyed by any Texian troops since the commencement of the campaign. The gin-shed was large, dry, and commodious, and amply sufficient to shelter us from sun and rain ; and during 56 ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE CANALES. the three weeks that we occupied it, we passed, perhaps, the most easy period of our term of service. We had been encamped in the old " cotton-gin shed" about two weelfs, when Lieut. MciMullen told us, one evening, about sun- down, that he wanted twenty men to saddle up for special and secret service. The horses were ready in a twinkling, and we were all eager to learn what the object of this night expedition could be. All was anxiety and expectation until about 8 o'clock, when we were ordered to move in silence. Not a word was spoken as we filed out of the yard, and took our position in the line. " Fall into double file — keep strict silence, and follow me," said our lieutenant, in a low voice, as he rode on in the advance. We followed with- out uttering a word. When we had rode on in this manner for about a mile, and were entirely clear of all the houses of the town, we were halted, and Lieut. McMullen explained to us the nature of the duty he wished us to perform. " It is reported, boys," said he, " that Canales, with some of his officers, are at this mo- ment at a fandango, which is held at a rancho, about six miles from town. My object is to capture them, if possible. To insure success, silence and caution are necessary. When we approach the rancho, it will be necessary for some of you to dismount, and hold the horses of the others while the rest surround the house. Commence counting there in front ! — every fifth man will be detailed to take care of the horses !" As soon as the names of the men upon whom this duty devolved were made known, we moved on again in silence. It was now necessary to procure a guide, as none of us knew the rancho at which the fandango was held, except by name. Fortunately, we picked up a Httle Mexi- can boy on the road, who agreed to be our pilot for the considera- tion of one dollar, paid in hand. The money was given to him, and he jumped up behind one of the men, to direct us in the route we wished to pursue. Splashing onv^'ard through mud and water, for five miles far- ther, we came in sight of the lights of the rancho. The boy here requested to be put down, as he did not wish his people to know that he had guided their enemies upon them. The little fellow slipped off in the darkness of the night, and we hastened on to the place of the merry-making. The scene which presented itself as we approached was unique and beautiful. The dance was held in the open air; and the bright fires kindled at different points, the candles and torches moving to and fro, the animated groups of revellers clustered on every side, the white robes of the girls prettily contrasting in the fire-fight with the dusky apparel of their partners ; while gay A SURPRISE. 57 forms, replete with life and motion, bounded in the lively dance, or floated in the graceful waltz, in sweet accord with the spirit- stirring strains of music which the night-breeze wafted to our ears — all made a scene that was, at the distance we viewed it, beauti- ful indeed. " Halt ! — dismount !— creep up cautiously, men, and surround the house — and when I call you, come up quickly and firmly at the charge." McMulien loosened his pistols in his belt as he gave this command, and strolled quite carelessly into the midst of the astonished dancers. Our places were quickly taken, and be- fore the revellers dreamed of danger, they found their scene of festivity suddenly surrounded with a ring of Texian rifles. Never was a scene of rejoicing more quickly turned into one of dismay and confusion. The women shrieked and fluttered about like a flock of frightened doves upon the sudden appearance of a hawk ; the men shouted, in alarm, "The Americans are upon us !" and bolted right and left, to make their escape, but on all sides they were met by the muzzle of a gun, and a gruff voice saying, " Stand back, or I'll shoot you down." The party was completely entrapped ; and finding no chance to escape, now gathered around an old drunken fellow who was dancing in their midst, singing as he danced, and occasionally crying out, " We are poor honest people — what have we to fear from our enemies." While this scene was being enacted out of doors, McMulien was busily engaged in the house, turning over tables, looking under beds, and examining carefully every nook and corner that could possibly conceal a fugitive. None were found, however, and after scan- ning closely the members of the party out doors, we were forced to conclude that either our information was false, or that Canales and his friends had left the fandango before we arrived. The first was the most reasonable presumption. We asked no questions, for we did not expect a truthful answer. The party, therefore, could only guess the cause of our unex- pected visit, until Lieut. McMulien told them that he was passing the rancho with his men, when the sound of music made us stop to see how they were enjoying themselves. They appeared perfectly satisfied with the explanation, and insisted that we should join the dance, and partake of the refreshments. Two or three of the best dancers in our squad laid aside their guns, and picking out the pret- tiest girls for their partners, took their places in the set ; the rest of us looked on, with our rifles in our hands. We had seen some pretty tall dancing in our time, but we think the feats we witnessed that night, were a little ahead of any thing in that fine we ever saw before. The men had not had an opportunity of enjoying themselves by tripping on the "light fantastic toe" for some time 58 THE FESTIVAL OF ST. JUAN. past, and on this occasion they determined, as they said, to ^^ spread themselves.''' The step of every negro dance that was ever known, was called into requisition and admirably executed. They per- formed the ''double shuffle'' the " Virginny break-down,'" the ''Kentucky heeltap'' the "pigeon whig," the " back balance lick,'* the "Arkansas hoe-down," with unbounded applause and irresistible effect. We laughed heartily at their grotesque figures and comi- cal movements, and the Mexicans were perfectly enraptured with their activity and skill. The rogues stepped about like lions after the dance was finished, and appeared to enjoy the admiration they had excited amazingly. The Mexican girls were so much capti- vated that they entirely slighted their old lovers, and were quarrel- ling with one another as to who next should dance with " los buenos Americanos." "Come, boys," said McMuUen, after two or three more dances were over, " this is enough fun for one night. Mount ! and return to quarters." So taking one glass of Muscat more all round, we bade the party " adios," and hied merrily homeward, regretting that our information in regard to Canales had proved untrue, but not sorry that we had been induced to hunt for him at a " fan- dango." The festa-day of St. Juan was ushered in by a bright sun and a blue sky. The prayers of the Mexican gallants must certainly have induced the good saint to intercede with the " clerk of the weather" for one fair day in the midst of the rainy season. Whatever may have been the cause, it was certainly the most beautiful day we had been blessed with for some time past. The manner in which the day is celebrated in Mexico, is most singular and strange. St. Juan must have been the patron saint of horsemen, or a kind of protec- tor of cavalry, for on this day no footman is allowed to promenade the streets. Men and boys of all ages, sizes, and conditions are mounted on the best and most gayly caparisoned steeds they can procure, and parade the streets in holiday attire. Whooping and yeUing like Indians, they dash through the streets in large parties, charging upon and riding down every thing that impedes their pro- gress. Single horsemen sometimes meet in full career, and as it is disgraceful to give the road on such occasions, they ride directly upon one another, and the consequence is, that the weakest horse or the most unskilful rider is dashed to the ground, while the victor rides on in triumph, rewarded for his gallantry and skill by bright smiles from the balconies above. Occasionally large rival parties meet in the narrow streets, and then a scene of wild confusion ensues. Like madmen, they yell and rush together ; and when the horses are not overthrown by the shock, they grasp each other by the neck or waist, and attempt to drag their antago- THE FESTIVAL OF ST. JUAN. 59 nist from the saddle to the ground. Wo to the awkward or un- skilful rider who places his foot in the stirrup on the festival of St. Juan ! Well knowing the manner in which the Mexicans observed this day, we determined to have our share of the fun. So carefully- grooming our horses early in the morning, plaiting their manes, and expending upon their appearance all the finery we could mus- ter, we mounted, and rode in a body to the main plaza. The exer- cises of the day were much interrupted by the plaza being occu- pied by our artillery, and the streets barricaded by piles of stones, but cramped as we were in our movements, we determined with the Mexicans to make the most of the occasion. By 10 o'clock, the streets were filled with mounted Mexicans, whooping and charging upon each other. Gradually they all formed into one great party, and rode by us in a bantering style. We were fewer in number, but possessed an immense advantage over them in the size, weight, strength, and speed of our horses. Thinking that we did not accept or understand their first challenge, they formed to charge upon us. We were clustered in the mouth of one of the main streets that led to the plaza, and as we found them rushing down like a whirlwind upon our ranks, we suddenly opened to the right and left, and allowed the whole body to pass to the rear. With a jeer of triumph they passed by, when we wheeled like light- ning on their rear, and using freely our spurs, charged the whole body at full speed. The weight of twenty large American horses is enough to overthrow all the ponies in Mexico, and as we had no arms to carry, our whole attention was devoted to the management of our horses. We rode right full upon them, and at the first shock more than twenty men and horses were rolling in the dust, and our triumph was achieved, for the rest of the party scattered in every direction, up alleys and into yards, in short, perfectly satisfied that " los cavallos Americanos son mucho buenos, y mucho grandes.^^ It was our turn now to ride in triumph up and down the streets, bowing to the senoras, and kissing our hands to the senoritas, who lined the streets and windows, and who returned our salutations most graciously. The Mexican gallants followed after us, but kept at a most respectful distance. At length, one of them who spoke a little English rode up, and inquired if we would like to engage in a " chicken race.''^ We expressed our willingness to do so, and two or three of them dashed off to pro- cure a chicken. The conditions of the race were these — the chicken was to be given to some man mounted on a good horse ; the rest of the party, both Mexicans and Americans, were to re- main in the plaza, while the man was to have about a hundred yards start ; at a given signal he was to run, by a designated course 60 THE CHICKEN RACE. which led about two miles round town, to our camp. If he reached camp in safety, the chicken was his prize ; but if he were inter- cepted, or overtaken by any of the Mexicans who were gomg to take short cuts through the town for the purpose, and the bird taken away from him, why then he was to be laughed at, and suf- fer the mortification of defeat. A wild young Texian, by the name of Clinton Dewit, volunteered to bear the chicken to camp ; and seizing the bird by the legs, dashed off at a break-neck pace. After he had got a fair start, about one-half of the Mexicans rushed after him, yelling like a legion of devils ; the remainder ran by a shorter route to intercept him at different points of the road. We galloped out of town to see the sport. They had purposely chosen a road for him to follow, that was covered with loose rocks, and full of holes, in hopes that his horse would either stumble over the one, or fall into the other. But "Clint Dewit" was too good a horseman to suffer either of these mishaps, and picked his course over the uneven ground as coolly as if he were gallanting a lady to church. The speed of his horse was so much greater than that of his pursuers, that he was soon able to leave them far behind ; but those who had run across and got before him, annoyed him exceedingly, so that he was frequently obhged to ride right over them, (which he always did when he had a chance,) or task his horse's powers to the utmost to ride around and avoid them. When he had nearly reached the camp, a big, stout fellow, mounted on a strong horse, rushed out from behind a house which he was obliged to pass, and grasped the prize ; and so eager was he to secure the chicken, that he momentarily released his hold of the bridle, while both horses were dashing along at full speed. " Chnt" immediately perceived his advantage, and grappling him by the throat, suddenly reined his horse up. The consequence was, that the greaser's horse passed from under him, and left the rider in Clint's grasp. Dashing him to the ground, the young Texian clutched the prize, and raising a yell of triumph, bore it easily to the camp. Another was brought out, and another chase succeeded, termi- nating like the first. Another, and another, and still with the same success. Until at last, we found ourselves pretty well sup- plied with stock in the poultry fine, and the Mexicanos ruefully acknowledged that there were " no mas Gallenas in Reynoso,''— no more chickens in Reynoso. Our time in this place was spent pleasantly enough, for we had little or nothing to do, and when the rainy season was over, we occupied ourselves with hunting, horse-racing, and every other kind of sport that our ingenuity could devise. _ The morning of the 4th of July found us busily employed m THE FOURTH OF JULY. 61 preparations to celebrate the day with suitable rejoicing. Every stray pig, or chicken that ventured to show himself in our yard that day, was unfortunately despatched — unfortunately, I say, since everybody said they came to their death by accident ; for, as the boys said, " if the poor things would run in the v^ay just as they were going to shoot off their guns in honour of the 4th, of course they could not help it, if they were killed.^* And then just to prevent them from spoiling^ they were put on the fire. Two large horse-buckets of whisky was procured, and a loaf of white sugar grated into it, with the due allowance of water. But to describe the scene of feasting, drinking, and revelry which en- sued, is beyond the power of our pen. Yet we would not have it for a moment supposed, that we were unable to tell what happened after dinner, because . Suffice it, that the dinner went off as all other dinners go off, with infinite satisfaction to everybody that enjoyed it. The wine — the whisky we mean — was capital, and circulated freely, and everybody was in such admirable spirits, and such excellent good humour with everybody else, and the toasts that were given were received with such prolonged, vociferous, and tumultuous applause, that Col. Wilson, although nearly half a mile distant, was sud- denly awakened from his siesta by the noise ; and despatched a file of men to find out if the Ranger's camp had been unexpect- edly attacked by a Mexican force, or " what was the meaning of that disturbance, anyhow." The men were furnished with several " horns'*^ out of the " big bucket," and sent back to Col. Wilson, "with the compliments of the Rangers," and the polite request, " that he would join us in a drink." The message was faithfully carried, and the colonel came up himself. But when he arrived and found no officer about, (for McMullen was not present,) and by looking over the fence, saw the men were ripe for any thing, he prudently con- cluded not to pay us a visit. He was perceived, however, and one of the most '-^ far- gone''' of the party reeled to his feet, and proposed as a toast, " the health of Col. Wilson ;" and three of the most vociferous cheers that ever rose upon the air, burst from the group around. The old gentleman understood the joke, and hurried off to his quarters, so that we were allowed to enjoy our- selves for the remainder of the evening as we pleased. Not many days had elapsed after this jollification, when we were ordered to pursue a party of robbers, who had been committing depredations in the neighbourhood. We relished not overmuch the service ; as we cared very little how much the Mexicans preyed upon each other, and like the woman, when she saw her husband in conflict with a bear, were perfectly indifferent as to 6 62 PURSUIT OF ROBBERS. which party whipped. But our orders were positive, and we prepared to execute them faithfully. An old Mexican, who had been attacked by these brigands the night before, was horribly wounded and mutilated. One of his hands was nearly severed from his body, and his face gashed up, while his nose was entirely cut off. In this mutilated condition, he managed to effect his escape in the night, and brought the news of these outrages to Reynoso. After his wounds had been dressed, he volunteered to become our guide, and conducted us to the robbers' encampment, which was about ten miles from town, on the Matamoras road. Pointing out the tree to which he had been tied, he gave us a detailed account of the cruelties which had been practised upon him, and described the agonies he had suffered. We found every thing, in the now deserted camp, just as he had related it to us. The robbers, however, had fled. Taking their trail, we followed it briskly for five or six miles, when we suddenly lost it; upon retracing our steps for a few hundred yards, we discovered that they had — as if fearful of pursuit, and resolving to baffle it — sepa- rated and diverged in all directions, so that it would be impossible to follow their trail. Our party was now divided, and ordered to scour the chaparral on both sides of the road in every direction ; the order was promptly obeyed, and the country minutely examined for miles around. But no further clue of the rascals could be discovered, and finding all attempts to do so fruitless, the party again assem- bled at the diverging point. Scarcely had we done so, when a large party was seen coming over a hill, some distance in the advance. Hastily concealing ourselves for an ambuscade, McMullen galloped on towards them, to reconnoitre, and attempt to draw them into the snare. He had not been gone long, when the heavy tramp of a number of horses was heard upon the road, and our lieutenant hastened back to tell us that it was the rest of the company coming up from Matamoras. Joyfully we came out to meet them, and amid mutual inquiries after healths, and hearty greetings, rode merrily back to Reynoso. The most pleasant news that our companions brought up from Matamoras, was the glad tidings, that we were ordered up to Co- margo, and were to move immediately. We were all delighted to hear this, for although the life we had passed in Reynoso was pleasant enough, we were right willing to exchange it for the stir- ring scenes of active, and more hazardous service. Early on the morning of the 9th of July, the bugle sounded the advance, and we bid the town of Reynoso farewell for ever. A steamboat, with troops and army stores, was already on her way up the Rio Grande to Comargo; the 7lh regiment of in- BILL 63 fantry, with a detachment of artillery under Captain Holmes, was marching to the same point by land, and our company was ordered to act as the advance guard. The incidents of the march are unworthy of relation, for most of the distance was accomphshed ia early morning and late evening; as the heat was too great for the infantry to march at mid-day. We could not but pity the poor fellows as they toiled through the mud and water which were sometimes nearly waist deep, for they seemed nearly ready to sink with fatigue. The road was exceedingly bad, and the sun excessively hot, and when the poor footmen would reach their camp at night, they would drop upon the ground, as if completely worn out and exhausted. Our first camping place was at the town of " old Reynoso," it being the former town site, but the houses having been once washed avi^ay by an overflow of the Rio Grande, the inhabitants removed to a high point lower down the stream, and built the pre- sent town of Reynoso. Early on the next morning we were again upon the road, and. after another hard day's ride, encamped in a pleasant place, ex- pecting the next day to reach Comargo. The fires gleamed brightly, and as we reclined upon our blan- kets around them, many a good tale was told of border life, and its wild excitements. Among the rest, the following has found its way into the columns of the " Picayune," and we give Mr. Kendall's version of it to the reader. n "McCulloch's Rangers, after a very hard day's ride, had bivou- acked one night last summer in a beautiful musquit grove between Reynoso Viejo and Comargo, a barranca protecting one side of the encampment from a surprise, while the steep banks of the Rio Grande served the same purpose on the other. The horses had all been watered, fed and curried, the first relief of the guard posted, and the Rangers, after drinking their coffee, were reclin- ing about on their blankets, spinning long yarns of their adven- tures, when Bill Dean told a story that wound up the entertain- ments of the evening, in theatrical parlance, and caused an out- break at the termination that came nigh stampeding the entire cavallada. Bill had joined McCulloch's men for the trip, and the recollection of his humorous tale about chasing the prairie fire a mile and a half, trying to cook his horse meat, secured him a most patient hearing. " Those who know any thing about the emigration of Germans into Texas, are well aware that thousands of them have made Indian Point, near Port Lavaca, a grand rendezvous before leaving for the interior settlement of New Braunfels, or the frontier sta- tion on the Pierdenales, the Llano, or the San Saba. Bill said 64 that he visited the Point last spring, when some five thousand Germans were encamped there, and was present at one of the most thrilJing and heart-rending scenes it had ever been his lot to witness. So far as his individual knowledge went, neither ancient nor modern history made mention of any case which might be considered as anywhere near parallel. "Among the emigrants, remarked Dean, was a young, pretty, red-cheeked girl, the pride of the party, who strolled out alone one day to gather wild flowers in the chaparral. Her ramblings car- ried her farther than she intended, and when she turned to retrace her steps she found that she was lost, poor thing — bewildered and perplexed in a tangled maze. In vain she strove to recollect the position and bearings of the camp she had left, all so joyous, a short hour before — reason had fled its throne. In an agony of doubt she ran to and fro in the chaparral, every step taking her farther from her friends, and darkness at length found her com- pletely exhausted, and crazed with thoughts of Indian peril and of starvation. Her sufferings during that dreadful night, continued Bill, you must fancy for yourselves — I shall not attempt to depict them. " With the early morning light she was again on her feet. She gazed in every direction, she ran in every direction ; but no sight of her friends gladdened her longing vision. While thus engaged she was discovered by a Mexican girl, whose father had a small rancho some five miles from the Point ; and now when succour was at hand the lost one fled at its approach. The Mexican girl called upon her in soothing terms ; but she heeded her not. The former then went to her father, hard by, and told him that some poor straggler from the camp of the strangers was in the bushes, and to all appearance lost and bereft of reason. The old man mounted his horse, went out in search, and soon came up with her ; but she fled at his approach as from one of the wild deni- zens of the prairie. The old man, in the kindness of his heart, with soft accents attempted to arrest her flight. She heeded him not. He knew that she must belong to the German camp, that she was lost, that she was crazed, and he determined to rescue her. Coiling the lariat or leather rope which hung to his saddle in his hand, he set off full speed after the bewildered and frightened fugitive, threw it gently over her head, and thus checked her flight. To call his daughter, thinking that she might better assist in soothing the poor girl, was his first impulse ; to proceed with her to the camp of her friends, and dehver her safely to those who must be but too anxious for her, was his second. "Great was the joy of her relatives, gladdened were the hearts of all who knew her, as she was brought into camp ; but soon 65 these emotions were changed to bitter sorrow, as one by one they discovered that the fairest flower among the emigrants was crazed. The sweet caresses of her mother and sisters slie answered only with a vacant stare ; the kind offices of those who crowded around were uncared for, unregarded. Her half-frantic lover, as he uttered words of comfort and endearment, was answered with a look that told plainly she recognised him not, that he was forgot- ten. Restoratives of every description were resorted to, but with- out effect. A favourite little dog, as he wagged his tail in joy, and endeavoured to lick the hands of his mistress in token of glad- ness at her return, was spurned as a stranger. Songs that she had loved in childhood fell in soft cadence upon her ear; yet she heeded them not. Presents from her lover — gifts that she had treasured in her heart of hearts — were passed over as idle toys. Her once bright eye, so full of intelligence and life, was now glazed, vacant and lustreless — her round, full face, once so radiant with intellect, was now a meaningless blank — and as her friends gazed upon her they wrung their hands in sorrow, and with sad misgivings that the reason of the poor girl was lost for ever. "At length, continued Bill, an elderly matron left the melan- choly group, and started off as if intent on making one more effort at restoring the crazed one to her senses. Presently she returned with a large plate of hot, smoking sour crout in her hand. Elbowing her way in among the sorrowing crowd, she presented the dish to the girl, and" — "And with what effect?" ejaculated a Ranger who had been listening all the while, and who now dashed away a tear which had gathered in his eye. " With what effect ?" "As-ton-ish-ing!" slowly ejaculated the wag. "It brought her right to; and the way she skived into that crout showed that twenty-four hours' hard exercise in the chaparral is a great help to the appetite !" " ********** " It took at least twenty minutes to collect the scattered horses that broke their ropes when the laugh that succeeded this termina- tion to a sad story first burst upon them." By two o'clock on the next morning we were in our saddles once more and again upon the road. We were obliged to start thus early, and then move slowly to accommodate the infantry who accompanied us. About ten o'clock we came in sight of the town of Comargo, and found the steamer had already arrived. 6* THE INDIAN SCOUT. CHAPTER VII The Indian Scout — The Comanches — News of their Depredations— Ordered to follow their Trail — The swimming of the Rio Grande — Attempt to rescue a Drowning Man— A Ranger playing 'Possum — The City of Rio Grande — Prickly Pears — The Indian Trail — The Night Alarm — Strange Concert — The Deserted Ranches — The Elephant in the Chaparral — Re-crossing of the River — Arrival at Mier — Bathing-Scene — The Battle Ground — Return to Comargo. Various are the excitements of a Ranger's life ; the wild foray, the secret scout, the ambuscade, the exciting skirmish, and the ha- zardous yet enticing expeditions in which we were so frequently engaged, lent a fascination, a romance to our existence, which those who drag out a commonplace life in a dull city can never dream of or enjoy. Our company had been encamped at Comargo, anxiously waiting for several days, when they received orders to march. Being deprived at the time by illness from accompanying our corps on this scout, we give the particulars and incidents of it as de- scribed by the pen of our friend, the author of "the Ranger's Song." About 1 o'clock on the morning of the 22d of July, a runner arrived in camp, with intelligence that a large body of Comanches, under their celebrated chief Buffalo Hump, had been scouring the country above us, on both sides of the Rio Grande, stealing horses, burning ranches, murdering the Mexican hombres, and carrying off the most beautiful of the Mexican Senoritas. Indeed, so bold had they become, that it was said they had actually ventured into Capt. Gillespie's camp of Rangers, situated aboat three miles from us on the opposite bank of the river, and stolen some of their best horses. An order immediately came down from head-quarters for Capt. McCulloch, who immediately went up and received instructions from Gen. Worth to take thirty of his best men, and give chase to the Indians forthwith, to have a parley with them, if possible, and not engage them without absolute necessity. Pre- parations were made to start before the dawn of day. A mo- ment's notice was all we wanted ; and in half an hour after the order was received the men were in the saddle, ready for any ser- vice and every contingency. "Fall in double file, men — march !" came from the head of the line, and on we rode in silence, scarcely any knowing whither. All we knew, and all we wanted to know, was, that there was a prospect for a fight ; and with hearts beating with excitement, in SWIMMING THE RIO GRANDE. 67 the darkness of the night, we defiled out of the town of Comargo, and bent our course to the river bank. A lovely morning as ever dawned from a Mexican sky broke upon us as we reached the Rio Grande. Every tree, and bush, and blade of grass, co- vered with the night dew, and sparkling in the morning light, gave a freshness and charm to the scene which was enchanting. We were not detained long upon the river bank, before the deep cough of a steamboat was heard in the distance, and soon after we discovered the "Enterprise" coming slowly along, puffing her way against the swollen current. She stopped as we hailed her, and came to at the bank. Our saddles, blankets, and arms, were then put on board, and ferried across the river, leaving us to trans- port ourselves and horses as best we might, the steamer being too heavily freighted to carry us. Now came a stirring scene, in which every man had to bear his part. The river, like our own Mississippi at times, was swollen excessively, and was sweeping past at the rate of five miles an hour ; and, to add to the danger of the passage, there were great quantities of drift-wood running ; and if any of us or our horses should chance to become entangled in the branches of the trees that were floating down, a speedy passage not only down the stream, but to eternity, would have been the inevitable conse- quence. There we stood upon the banks, all in the undress uni- form of the Rangers, our horses rearing, snorting, and eyeing the troubled waters with evident alarm. "Now, boys, wade into it," said our captain, as he vaulted upon his chestnut horse, "Tom," and plunged into the stream. " Tom" was an old war-horse, and felt almost as much at home in the water as upon the land ; and right gallantly did he strike for the opposite shore. McCulloch cut a strange figure as he sat bolt-upright on " Tom," with his yellow hair waving in the wind, and the muddy waters breaking around his form. About a dozen horses followed him, but the rest, after swimming about fifty yards, declined the feat, and returned to the bank. The boys on the bank were not disposed to yield in silence to their misfortune, but venting their feelings in yells, and whoops, and imprecations, so loud, deep, and continuous, that one might have fancied that a select party of imps had just adjourned from a wine table below, and were engaged in yelhng for a prize, which was to be awarded to the noisiest. Long poles were in demand, and many a poor brute's nose suf- fered as he emerged, snorting, from the stream ; and notwith- standing all their exertions to prevent it, some few horses rushed by, and broke up the bank. They were soon caught, however, and the whole number again forced to take water. The second 68 CITY OF RIO GRANDE. effort was more successful than the first, for nearly all were bridled, and forced to swim the stream with their riders. Five or six of the men remained on the bank to see that no renegade returned ; but their efforts were not required, as all had now gained the opposite bank in safety. The passage was not, how- ever, without an alarming incident. Young T , who had lately joined our company, was an expert swimmer, and attempted to cross the river alone. We watched his progress some time with anxiety. As he neared the centre of the stream, his strength appeared to fail him, and taking off his hat, which he had worn to protect his head from the sun, he waved it several times above his head, as a signal for help, and then slowly sank from sight. Those who had remained upon the bank rushed with desperation into an old " dug-out'' which lay a little distance up the stream, and commenced paddling with might and main to his assistance. Great God ! what were our feelings, to see a comrade and friend drowning before our eyes, and we not within reach to succour or save him! The clumsy old canoe seemed to move hke a snail across the waters. T rose and sank again ; and this time we could hear a faint cry for help. Like madmen, they strove to urge the canoe ahead ; with their naked bodies bared to the scorching sun, they toiled until the big drops of perspiration rolled down their panting sides. Again he rose and sank, and this time they were within reach of him ; and in trying to turn the canoe round, it floated broadside down the stream, in spite of all their efforts to prevent it. To describe their agony, and their exertions to bring her up again — for they had nothing but poles to paddle with — would be as unavailing as were their efforts ; they were just about to give up in hopeless despair, when young T raised a loud laugh, and struck out easily for the shore. He had been playing 'possum at our expense ; but to describe the severe re- primand which he got when we all reached the shore, in the shape of unvarnished and original cursing, would make a devil cross himself with fear. As soon, though, as the poor fellows had recovered from their fatigue, they all laughed as heartily as any at the ruse which had cost us so much mental pain, and readily forgave the trick which had caused them so much labour. After crossing the river, we halted for some time for the pur- pose of procuring a guide, at the city of Rio Grande, being on the east or Texas side of the river. The cit}'- — or rather the ground on which the city is hereafter to be built — belongs to an enter- prising young Texian by the name of Clay Davis, who acquired his right to the land by marrying a Mexican heiress, whose property consists in large tracts of wild land. The tract runs A RIDE IN THE CHAPARRAL. 69 within a few miles of the mouth of the St. Juan, to some extent down the Rio Grande. It is the only point not subject to overflow anywhere near the head of navigation. The town site is a high bluff, only three miles from Comargo by land ; and, since the destruction of the latter place by the flood, bids fair to become one of the most important points for the Mexican trade on the whole Texian frontier. The land is very rich and fertile ; and, taking all its advantages into consideration, it is undoubtedly one of the most eligible points for a city that the valley of the Rio Grande can boast. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we started with our guide on the trail which led off from the rancho in a northerly direction. The sign was plainly visible, and that a large party of savages were banded together, on a marauding expedition, was evident enough, even to those among us most unpractised in wood craft. The guide, poor fellow, was extremely fearful, and took particular pains not to place himself too far in advance of the command. And right good cause had he to be so, for a more unmerciful set of de- mons, than the Comanches, never scoured the border-side. It is their custom never to take a man prisoner, and should one be so unfortunate as to fall into their hands, his fate is sealed for ever. No chance for escape is left him — death, immediate, terrible, and certain, is his inevitable doom. It was only with much persua- sion, and tempting offers of reward, that our guide could be pre- vailed upon, in the first place, to pilot us through the chaparral ; and when it is remembered that he was mounted on a miserable jaded mule, and was compelled to ride back alone to the rancho, running the risk of being cut off by the Indians at every step he took upon the homeward track, it is not to be wondered at, that he felt, and manifested extreme reluctance in undertaking this profit- able but perilous service. Onward we pushed, however, our cap- tain riding directly in his rear, and the whole command following as fast as possible in single file. The chaparral was so dense, that it was only with great diffi- culty we could force our way through, and at the same time fol- low the half-obliterated trail. Our lacerated and bleeding hands, faces and legs, gave us a scratching of what we would have to suffer before the termination of this scout. Sticking into our flesh, and torturing us most horribly, we bore beautiful specimens of that most prickly of all thorny plants, called by botanists the cactus, but better known to us as the omnipresent, and infernal prickly pear. How the half-clad savages ever rode through that country, with the rapidity they did, was always to us a wonder and a marvel. About nightfall, we pitched our camp upon the borders of a 70 OUR BIVOUACK. beautiful murmuring stream, and after the fatigues of the day, congratulated ourselves upon the idea of passing a pleasant night in the wild woods. The fires were kindled, the horses staked out, and the guard posted ; it was really a relief after having been encamped for weeks in a dusty town, to spread our blankets once more upon the fresh green sward, and repose our weary limbs on this soft and dewy couch. The full-orbed moon was wending her way, hke some fair crystal chariot, across the cloudless heaven, and the " sentinel stars," paled by her light, shone fainter and fainter in the deep blue vault above, till sweet refreshing slumber shut out their blessed hght, and closing our heavy lids, we forgot in deep sleep the beauties of either earth or heaven. At mid- night, we were startled by one of the guard firing upon what he supposed to be an Indian prowling about the camp. Whether it really was so, or not, we could never certainly determine ; though the alarm served to increase our vigilance. Our horses were brought closer in, and every man slept within a few paces of his steed. We apprehended no danger from an attack, but we were fearful that our horses might be stampeded, or silently stolen from the lines by our crafty foe. For some time after the sentinel shot, divers strange and unusual noises were heard in the woods around, which we supposed to be Indian signals ; as this strange race always convey intelligence to one another, when on the war path, by means of these sounds. A most singular and wild concert they made that night ; there was hooting of owls, and screeching of wild cats, and yelping of wolves, growling of bears, screaming of panthers, and in short every bird of the air and beast of the forest seemed to have combined their musical talents to give us the benefit of their horrid voices. Little cared we for noises, by whomsoever made, so that our horses were safe. And after doubling the guard, we sank to rest again, promising ourselves, as soon as the morrow's light should give us an opportunity, to cul- tivate a closer acquaintance with our strange musicians. As soon as day dawned, the next morning, we prepared a hur- ried cup of coffee, and after munching our scanty allowance of hard bread and dried beef, set out on our journey. The signs of moccasoned feet were thick around our camp, but the feet that made the tracks, as our Mexican guide expressed it, were sacabo — which means, " not about." The poor guide, after being paid off here, took his leave of us, but not without many misgivings, and with all the speed his poor mule could muster, put back for the rancho. We pursued our way on the trail, which led us a weary march, over hill and valley, through thicket and prairie, occasionally wending our way to some high hill-top, when visions of beauty MEXICAN GRATITUDE. 71 and grandeur would burst upon us, that were truly sublime. The noble river rolling far beneath, the hills clad in deep rich green, the thicket covered dells, the flower enameled plain, and in the background, the shadowy outline of the distant mountains ; all added to the magnificent landscapes which were so frequently spread before us. Our way now continued directly up the river, and as we passed the various ranchos, which lay upon the road, we found that they had all been deserted. We halted at noon at a large rancho, and although it was strongly barricaded, yet like all the rest, it was tenantless ; the Mexicans who lived there having fled across the river to escape from the savages. As we rode up, they ventured to show themselves on the opposite bank, and although we endea- voured to make them come across to us, yet no pantomimic en- treaties could prevail upon them to do so. We wanted informa- tion in regard to the Indians, so our first-lieutenant, John McMul- len, was sent with four or five men in an old canoe, which we found lying on the bank, across the river to hold a parley with them. Two or three of the Mexicans accompanied him back, and they gave us a most doleful account of the massacre and atro- cities the Indians had committed. They expressed themselves delighted that we had come to their aid, but forgot not, in the meanwhile, as a means of showing their gratitude, to make us pay as high as possible for every thing we wanted. An Ameri- can would have thrown open his doors, and freely given the con- tents of his larder, or his granaries, to men who had marched a weary way to come to his assistance and relief. Not so with the Mexican — he looks upon every stranger, whether friend or foe, as the legitimate subject of his extortion and spoliation, and allows no opportunity to pass by unimproved. On this occasion, they kindly consented to sell us eggs at sixty cents a dozen, and beef, corn, and other necessaries, at a like exorbitant price. After rest- ing our horses for a few hours, we learned the route they sup- posed the Indians had taken, and again get out in pursuit. Our difiiculties began anew. The trail led directly into the thickest of the chaparral, and through the thorny bushes we were obhged to go. The thicket was so dense that we frequently were compelled to dismount, and lead our horses through places where it was impossible for a mounted man to penetrate. Our clothes were literally torn ofl" us. Frequently the low hanging branches which obstructed our way, would nearly drag us from our saddles ; and before we emerged from the twilight gloom of that dense thicket, there was not a man among us, but who was firmly convinced that he had seen " the elephant in the chapar- raiy Following the trail, we at length arrived at the river, and 72 MEXICANS AND INDIANS. great was our relief to have once more an unimpeded path to travel. Continuing our way along the bank, we soon arrived at a small rancho, which bore evident marks of the Indian's depre- dation. They had killed the cattle, driven off all the horses, and carried off with them some Mexican children, and a young girl, who was said to have been celebrated for her great beauty. The Mexicans generally, we speak of the character of the mass of the people, are certainly base cowards. Whenever the Indians ap- proach the ranches, the men run off, and hide themselves, leaving the women totally unprotected. As soon as they think all danger is over — they then return, and braggadocio-like, swear vengeance, threatening to exterminate the tribe ; and mounting their caballos, pretend to give chase, but taking good care not to come up with their foe. The Indians, well knowing their character, frequently lie in wait, on the occasion of these exhibitions of bravery, and reward them for their cowardice by cutting their throats. The Comanches are far superior to the class of piones or serfs in Mexico, in every particular. Upon one occasion, an Indian was sur- rounded by a large party, having his squaw and child with him — he was told to surrender — ^but repKed, that " the Comanches never surrendered in the defence of a woman'^ — giving them battle, he drove them back with his single arm, until the woman and child could escape ; deahng destruction on every side with his knife, until he was shot down, weltering in the blood of his enemies ! We found several of their arrows lying about, but could discover no clue to inform us of their immediate whereabouts. As it was growing late, McCulloch concluded to pitch his camp about two miles beyond this place, and we reached the spot just as the sun was sinking in the west. The place selected was directly on the river bank, and a Mexican corn-field furnished a convenient pen for our horses, during the night. The corn had been removed from the field, but there was plenty of good grass left, and our tired animals were turned in to graze at will upon the excellent pasture. A steep bank, about thirty feet high, formed one side of the enclosure, and the river the other — the two ends being enclosed by fences running from the bank to the water-side. Our place of encampment was on the table-land, on the bank above, where we could overlook the whole enclosure. Four sentinels were placed over the horses, while the camp itself was left entirely unguarded. Indeed, as we ourselves practised somewhat the Indian mode of campaigning, we never feared a surprise or night attack ; for, as we always slept with our arms by cur sides, we were always pre- pared to spring to our feet and be ready on the instant to repulse the foe, or rush forward to the attack. Our horses gave us our A BATHING SCENE. 73 only trouble, and if we were certain that they were securely guarded, we cared not for the foe who might venture to assault us. The next day, we learned from some rancheros who had seen the hght of our fires on the night previous, and who had come over to visit us, by day-break in the morning, that the Indians had crossed, the river, some few miles above, early on the morning of the preceding day, and were supposed to be now lurking somewhere in the neighbourhood of Mier. In order to pursue them, we again were compelled to swim the river, which was not accomplished with- out a vast deal of trouble and fatigue. At length, after a repetition of some of the scenes we witnessed at the first crossing, we all passed over in safety, and shaped our course directly for the town of Mier. As we approached the place it presented a beautiful ap- pearance, with its snowy walls and turrets gleaming in the reflected light of the sun ; and its good citizens were not a httle surprised to find a company of los Texanos so unexpectedly at their doors. Just before entering the town, we had to ford a beautiful stream which danced merrily along, and rippled over its rocky bed, pure, cool, and as limpid as a mountain rivulet. As we rode up, still being concealed behind a high bank, a rare sight was presented to our view. Some fifty or sixty young Mexican girls were bath- ing in the lovely stream, making the air ring with their merry laughter, and the water foam and splash with their sportive agile movements. Occasionally, their unveiled charms were exposed to our gaze as we peeped cautiously over the high bank at the lovely nymphs, who continued their joyous sports, totally unconscious of our presence. Every form of maiden loveliness stood before us, from the girl of eighteen to the budding beauty of the laughing child. How long we might have gazed entranced upon this fair original scene, we cannot pretend to say ; for, unfortunately for us, one of the young girls happened to glance above, and descried a long hne of strange, bearded, and moustached faces peering earnestly over the bank at them. The sight we now witnessed afforded us the highest merriment. The alarm had been quickly given, and the girls, in confusion and dismay, paddling and splashing, quickly made for the shore, with screams and shrieks ; and scampering towards their garments, rebosas, mantillas, and gowns, picked up in all direc- tions, were put on in a hurry, and then running — such a foot-race for home, half-dressed as they were, made one of the most amusing and .laughable scenes that we ever saw. It was soon spread that a large American troop of horse had arrived, and the whole popu- lation swarmed out to see us. We rode into town, in double file, and proceeded directly to the alcalde's apartments, to make a re- quisition for meat and bread. The order was quickly complied with, and the desired articles 7 ^^4 RETURN TO COMARGO. forthcoming ; for they knew not, as yet, whether we came as friends or foes, (as the place had not yet been garrisoned by our troops,) and the only way to make a Mexican act promptly, is to operate on his fears. Under the shadow of some beautiful shade-trees, which ornamented the streets of the town, we sought shelter from the scorching rays of the sun, and despatched our rations of sweet bread, fresh meat, and polonciaSy (Mexican sugar,) with an appe- tite sharpened by our previous exertions. Mier is a pretty town, and rejoices in the possession of a multitude of fair women ; indeed, we thought that it contained more beauty than any place we had yet visited. So much has been said of Mier by others, that we will not here attempt to describe its localities. We had among us many of the brave men who had participated in the engagement which rendered its name immortal on the page of Texian history ; and all the most notable points of the battle-ground were pointed out to us by Lieut. McMullen, who was in the fight, and who, as our readers already have seen, shared all the horrors of Mexican cap- tivity. Thus was our day spent in Mier, and it was with no little reluctance that we were compelled to leave so pleasant a spot. But a soldier's orders are his only law, and when our commander had learned that the Indians had struck off from this place towards their great hunting-grounds in the north-west, he concluded to dis- continue further the pursuit. Accordingly, our horses' heads were turned towards our old post, Comargo; and after another hard day's ride, and again swimming another river, the San Juan, we arrived safely on its banks, and were warmly welcomed to our quarters by our messmates and friends ; and as we sat around our suppers, which were cooking on the fires, we related to our anxious comrades the incidents of the scout. To those who are at all acquainted with the skilful stratagems used by the roving tribes of the prairies, to baffle and elude pur- suit, and the amazing rapidity with which they move when on a marauding expedition, no explanation need be given for the un- successful termination of our expedition. But if there be any not over-versed in such matters, and yet over-curious on the subject, we have only to say to such, go to Mexico, join a ranging company, start out in a hurry, almost without provisions, upon an Indian trail, swim three rivers, and follow a Comanche war-party for five days and nights, through the chaparral, and we will wager high that at the termination of the chase, you will be perfectly satisfied upon the subject, and will never be inquisitive again about the pleasures or result of an Indian scout. THE HOSPITAL OF THE SICK. 75, CHAPTER VIII. The Hospital of the Sick — Soldiers' Anecdotes — Orders for our March — Scout to China — The Sugar Rancho — The strange Guide — An extraordi- nary Vision — The March at Night — Rancho El Toro— The Arm- Chair Church — Preparations for a Fight — The false Alarm — Our Entrance into China — Retreat of Col. Seguin and his Men — The vain Pursuit. Having seen the termination of "The Indian Scout," which the writer was deprived of participating in, we will ask of the kind reader to go back with us from the time we were made an invalid until the next expedition of our company, in order to bring up our " Journal notes." We lay sick then in the hospital tent of the 5th infantry, to which we had been removed by the kindness of our friends ; and stretched out on a pallet among the sick soldiers of that regi- ment, we suffered for some days from the excruciating disease of the climate. There is no place like the couch of the sick for reflection and meditation. There, man is made to feel his help- lessness and his dependency upon the will of a Supreme Being ; there, feeling the uncertainty of life, his soul softens and relents towards his fellow man ; the stern purpose, or fell design, relaxes in determination ; and he who, in heakh the day before, would have stopped at nothing, is then made as weak and helpless as a child. The hospital of the sick, especially that of the soldier, is human nature undisguised. It is the mirror of character, into which one may look and read at will. Scenes of every nature are reflected there, from the gayest to the most mournful. And, oh ! most sad and sorrowful is it, melancholy, and most painful of all scenes, to see a young soldier in the bloom and hey-day of life, when his fond anticipations and dearest prospects glow brightest with the fire of enthusiasm, lying on the couch of death, with no kind friend or relative near to speak a soothing word of consolation, or to remember him to those he loved, or bear to them his dying wish, as his last breath vanishes upon the atmosphere of a foreign land, and sinking into the arms of death, not even to be mentioned or remembered for the service he had rendered, or known to the world as one who had fought in the defence of his country's cause. These thoughts naturally arose in our mind as we saw, in our [presence, a poor fellow carried out to be buried, who had fought jbravely at the late battles, and was now to be entombed without a tear, or hardly a regret, to follow him to his grave, save that which the volley of muskets echoed as the fresh green earth was piled over his corpse. 76 It was on the afternoon of the 24th of July, when the sun was slov\4y sinking to its " nightly bourne," and shedding upon the camp-scene of snow-white tents its soft mellow rays, which breathe a " transient farewell," that we had awaked from a quiet slumber, and became attracted by the colloquy of two of the sick men, who were evidently speaking of the young man who had but lately died. " Well, Barney was the pride of his company — a jewel of a boy ; Heaven rest his sowl," said one, as he drew himself up on his elbow. " Pass the pipe, Larry, darlint," said he, drawing a long sigh and stretching out his hand to his companion, who lay on the next pallet, and then, taking a few whiffs, continued : " Sure that was the boy that had the heart in 'im. It was the night after the battle of the — what's this ye call it ? — ' Risecar de Palmy,' that we were carrying the wounded Mexicans to the hospital in the rear, when a dhrop of wather was worth a pair of Mexicans, that self-same time — bad luck to 'em — and a poor divil that had the leg off him, was howlin murther for a dhrink, when up steps poor Barney — may the Holy Virgin kape him — and taking the canteen from his neck, held it to the poor divil's mouth till he got the fill of it ; and could yees 'av seen the rollin' of his ej^es, as he looked poor Barney in the face to thank him, say- ing, ' Mi Tampico,' it would 'av made ye blink yer weepers." " Wasn't it Barney that helped to find Gen. Arista's chest of money ?" said Larry. "Sure it wasn't anybody else," rephed his companion; " and iv it had a been me, be gor, I niver would a turned it in at all." " Tut, man," said Larry, " its only talking ye are now ; for wasn't the order out to turn in every thing down to a brass but- ton ? and didn't I have to give up me illegant pistols and silver spurs ? Truth, then, how could yees kape from it ?" " How could I kape from it ?" said his companion. " Sure, then, it's givin' the box a dacent burial I would, and divil a bit would I iver gone near it 'til I got me discharge, and wouldn't that be keeping from it ?" The convalescent here joined in the laugh at Paddy's wit. " 'Tare an ouns," said Larry, " it was mighty mean of 'em any how to take away from us the little plunder we'd picked up after such hard fightin'. Wouldn't it 'av been more dacent to have divided it betwixt uz ?" " Thrue for you, Larry," said Pat, "and sorry I am I didn't enlist for the seas, instead of the land sarvice ; for there, I am tould, they divides the plunder betwixt 'em all, whiniver they takes a prize, and, be gor, it's no more than fair any how. But I hear say it's the reconciliation pohcy of the government. ' Thunder soldiers' anecdotes. 77 an' turf,' who iver heard of reconciliation, except with a purty girl ye had fallen out with ?" Saturday, 25th. Very hot ; improving slowly, but very weak ; amused all the morning listening to an Irish soldier, who was relating anecdotes of the last battle, which we give literally to the reader. " The violent shot of the enemy," as Pat expressed it, " when the 5th came up to support the charge of the dragoons, made the presperation come on us all ; but wasn't it a howl of madre de dios the divils set up at the ' God-damn-me* s^^ as they called us when we scared them out of the chaparral ! Be Heavens, the British never beat that. Just then it was that our colonel (Mcin- tosh) got the bayonet in him, when a ball tickled the ear of Capt. Scott, and the ' old coon' turns round, and sez he, * That bullet never was made for Martin Scott,' and divil a bit was he hurt at all." " Do you mind the day, Larry," continued Pat, " that we went out in the morning to bring in the wounded, iv they wasn't all deiad ?" " Troth I do," said Larry. " Sure it was a sorry looking place," continued Pat, " and * Holy Mother,' I kept saying me prayers all the while, for fear some on 'em would come to life and shoot me unawares. Och, blazes ! but that was the worst ranchero I iver saw." " Who was that ?" said one. " Why, when Larry and I was about the middle of the dead divils, I picks up a canteen full of some liquor ; it wasn't whisky, and the divil knows what it was ; but it had the spirit in it, and barrin the smell, was mighty good tasted." " Muscal," said some one. " Ay, perhaps that was it. Well, after tipping the muzzle to me Hps, I hands it over to Larry, when I sees one of the dead divils open his eyes at me ! ' Och, blood and murther, sure, Larry,' sez I, ' here's one of the dead Mex'ans looking straight at us with his two eyes !' And with that ' Larry' drops the can- teen, and pints his bayonet right at him, when the ranchero gets up with one iv our dragoon jackets on him, and all around him was a heap of plunder, that the villain had stolen from the dead. So with the plunder we takes him to camp, and turns him and the plunder over to the ' officer of the day ;' and may I never forgive meself for not blowin' his brains out for the scare he gave me ; for I took the ager at the time, and, by me sowl, I haven't got {over it yit, and I beheve it's the cause I'm here now." I Sunday, 26th. Very pleasant. Thanks to the kind-hearted and gentlemanly surgeon of the 5th infantry, Dr. James R. Con- 7* 7B THE STRANGE GUIDE. rad, we were now convalescent, though still feeble. The doctor would frequently sit hours by our pallet, keeping us amused with his dry stories, and we must be permitted here to return him our grateful acknowledgments. In the afternoon, we dressed ourself and left the hospital for the more agreeable quarters of our friend Lieut. D., where we spent a very pleasant evening with a select party, and, retiring to our friend's cot while the band was playing a soft melting air, we gradually sunk into a sweet repose. The next day was very hot ; but we found ourself improving very fast, and reading the *' Three Guardsmen" to occupy our time, we felt again all the wild excitement of the " hero," and were anxious once more to be like him in the saddle, engaged in active service. On the 30th, we joined our company and returned to camp duties. On the first of August, to our great joy, we received secret orders to march. All now was great excitement. Many of our horses were to be shod, and it was not without great difficulty that we could obtain iron enough for the purpose. The different messes were busily occupied cleaning their arms, moulding bul- lets, and parching coffee for the scout. On the morning of the third, at 8, a. m., the command was ready and departed, leaving a rear-guard of some ten or twelve to follow after, among whom were Mr. Kendall and ourself. At 10, A. M., we started, having been detained for special purposes ; one of which was to throw the spies off the scent; and taking a W. S. W. course we stopped at the Sugar Rancho, where we found Duncan's artillery encamped. After spending a few moments here with our friends, we rode on. The sky looked threatening, and soon after a tremendous shower of rain came up — in the midst of which a horseman was seen pursuing us, at full speed, and coming up, he asked us as he rode by, if our name was " Reid." Upon replying to him in the affirmative, he dashed on, much to our surprise, telling us to wait a moment at the next rancho. On our arrival at the hut, we saw him changing his clothes, and then taking a fresh horse, rode up wiih us, and putting a note into our hand from Capt. Duncan, said he would show us the camp of Capt. McCulloch, as he knew that he had encamped some place in the hills. His manner was much hurried and excited, and seemed so strange that we first looked suspiciously on him. He took the lead, and after winding around some deep gullies and hills for about three miles, he changed his course to a high ridge, and bade us follow. We approached cautiously in double file until we gained its top, where we found the camp of our boys. It was raining so hard at the time that we could not learn clearly the purport of the note. It now appeared that the man, whose name OBJECT OF THE SCOUT. 79 was Baker, was sent by Capt. Duncan, to act as guide for us, or serve us in any way, with instructions to return in two or three days. Capt. McCuIloch then held a conference with him, and concluded to dispense with his services. Baker was from Tennessee, and had hved many years in Mexico, and knew the country well, having been engaged in trading with the Mexicans. It soon after cleared up, though we got drenched to the skin. The boys had nooned it here, and we were too late for coffee, but the delicious fumes of broiled bacon added to our appetite, and with a piece of it on a hard biscuit we made a hearty meal. That day we travelled twenty-five miles, and encamped for the night in a thick wood, about one hundred yards from the banks of the river San Juan. As the order was given to halt and dismount, the boys made a rush for the best trees to camp under. The guard was set, fires were kindled, water was brought, and the jolly and hardy Rangers were sitting around talking over the object of the expe- dition and spinning yarns, while the supper was cooking on the fire. We may as well here state that the object of the expedition was two-fold ; first to ascertain the condition of the China road, and its practicability for artillery, it being the most direct route to Monterey, and secondly to capture Col. Seguin and his men, whom we learned were stationed there, numbering about one hun- dred and forty. Our saddles served that night for heading, as the Texians call a pillow, and our blankets for our bed. After supper, the first watch was relieved, and the second posted, save which, all the camp was soon wrapped in sleep. The morning of the fourth was cloudy. Sleeping in wet clothes and then having to stand guard from 2, a. m., till daylight, is not very pleasant ; but still, being tinged with adventure, the unplea- sant duty was in a degree relieved by its excitement, and the cau- tion necessary to be observed at this particular period of the watch, as it is the time always selected by the Indians, and generally by the Mexicans for an attack. Day broke, however, without the occurrence of any incident, and we had barely time to swallow our httle breakfast, before the order " Saddle up, men," rang through the encampment. We rode on all day, travelling in a very fast walk ; and there was much fun and merry glee, through- out the long line of double file as we journeyed on. At .5, p. m., we encamped near the road side, to rest and graze our horses, as well as to partake ourselves of such refreshment as our wallets af- forded. It was intensely hot, and the camp-ground, composed of but a few chaparral bushes, aflbrding us but little or no shade, we spread our saddle blankets over their tops to keep us sheltered from the sun. Under one of these bushes might have been seen 80 AN EXTRAORDINARY VISION. our captain, poring over a map, as he lay on the ground resting on his elbow, and, tracing with his finger the lines there laid down, seemed to be intent upon some scheme, which he was revolving in his own brain. Notwithstanding the famiharity of the men with our commander, for they most usually called him " Ben,'* yet on such occasions there were but few who dared to approach him. Rising from the ground, and slowly folding up the map, which he placed in his hat, for the most of us were in our shirt sleeves, he approached his favourite horse, and patting him on the neck, as he slipped the bridle into his mouth, gave the order, " Saddle up." We doubt whether there is any cavalry corps in the world that can saddle and bridle a horse quicker than the " Texas Rangers." The order was hardly given, when the ma- jority of the men were in the saddle, and the few that were de- tained behind, were kept by some unruly pack mule. Our road now lay along a beautiful skirt of country, and the air became cool by the departure of the fiery rays of the sun. Far in the distance could be seen the dim outhne of the bluish mountains, like some fleecy cloud. The sun was setting with unusual gran- deur behind the distant mountains, which seemed to rest upon the western horizon, gilding the encircling view with all the magnifi- cence and splendour of its golden rays. Just then we were attracted by a most extraordinary vision in the heavens, and so perfect was its every outline as to fix general attention. The scene presented a battlement in the clouds, over which there was a large arch, and beneath, was a soldier with his musket at a charge, standing on a draw-bridge. The picture was as per- fect as if it had been drawn by the pencil of an artist, and caused among the superstitious many ominous forebodings of what was to come. As the last lingering roseate hue faded from the sky, orders came from the advance to form into single file, and to ob- serve complete silence ; and for those leading mules to fall back to the rear. Our movements, thus far, had been made with the greatest caution and secrecy, and a fight was now thought to be certain. The merry joke and wild laugh of our companions were no longer heard, and faces which before looked without care, then became grave and thoughtful. Not a murmur was heard through- out the long rank of single file of fifty-six men. It was a most lovely night; the silver goddess of the heavens was smiling sweetly in all her transcendent beauty ; the bright arms glis- tened in the moonlight, and the costume of our men was as wild as their appearance was ferocious. At 11, p. M., we passed a large rancho, about two miles long, called " Rancho el Toro," in the midst of which, a httle off from the road, there stood an unroofed chapel, in the shape of a large PREPARATIONS FOR THE ATTACK. 81 arm chair — with a high oval arch for its back, while the walls on each side represented the arms. A seat was placed in the rear for the priest, which was approached by a flight of steps, and around the walls forming the arms, were little shelves, on which stood sundry ornaments ; the front of the church, if it may be called one, being entirely open. Behind the arch stood a scaffold on which was erected two or three small bells. As well as we could see, by moonlight, the chapel had the appearance of having been very lately occupied. As we passed the rancho, all was as still as death, and not a soul was to be seen except an occasional head or two, peeping forth for a moment from some half-closed window. Turning round the pass of a high hill, we shortly after descended a deep ravine, and crossing a boggy stream permitted our horses to drink, when we gained the opposite bank. At about midnight, when within less than a quarter of a mile from the town of China, a halt was called, and a detachment of twenty men, under the command of our second-lieutenant, Allen, was order to proceed with the pack mules, off to the right of the road, some fifty yards, and station a guard, with instructions to stop all persons entering or going towards the town, allowing those going from it to pass on, — and at the dawn of day to ride into the town and join the main force, when it was thought the attack would commence. The main body then proceeded on, taking a circuit ofTto the left, so as to get round to the rear of the town, on the Monterey road. It happened to fall to our lot to be detailed with the rear-guard. We had hardly dismounted in the chapar- ral bushes, and tied our mules, before we took a prisoner, who said that he was out, looking for some horses. While interrogating the prisoner, and before the guard was posted, one of our men, hearing the clang of sabres, ran towards the road-side, and seeing two Mexican soldiers, challenged them to halt, which refusing to do, and putting spurs to their horses to escape, they were fired upon, and one, it was thought, was badly wounded. The report of the gun created quite a sensation among us, as we were not aware, at the time, whence it came, and during the flurry the prisoner made his escape. The guard was then posted in the bushes, near the road, and the balance of our squad drawn up in battle array, to prevent surprise ; each man holding his horse by the bridle, prepared to fight or fly. After some consultation, it was thought advisable to send one of the men to Capt. McCulloch, to inform him of the cause of the report of the gun, and " Arch Gib- son" volunteering, was sent to perform that duty. During his I absence, we made two more Mexicans prisoners, who informed us that the main body of Col. Seguin's men had left China about nine 1 o'clock that night, an express having arrived from Comargo, in- 82 ENTRANCE INTO CHINA. / forming them of our approach. The express must have left that point at day-break, and going by Passa Sacate, the nearest route, by obtaining relays, accomplished the defeat of our object. On the return of Gibson, he told us that he had found the company encamped on a road, in the rear of the town, and that they were proceeding to the river bank, when the report of the gun arrested their movements, and they were waiting the return of the spies sent out to ascertain the cause of the alarm ; but upon his arrival, had concluded to remain in their position until daylight, when it was thought the attack would be made. " How did you find the camp, Arch ?" asked one of the men. " Why, I was right smartly bothered at first," said he, " but, getting down from my horse, I found the shod-tracks of our horses, and letting my critter smell their trail, he carried me right to it." The men were under arms all night, and not a wink of sleep was allowed us. Our prisoners lay on the ground, perfectly unconcerned ; one, untying a corner of his handkerchief which held his tobacco, and taking a corn-shuck from his hat, made a cigar which he lighted by means of a prepared rag, with a flint and steel ; and then puffing the smoke through his nose, said " he did not mind remaining with us till dayhght, but that his young wife would become alarmed at his absence :" at the same time the fellow was uncertain whether we intended cutting his throat or not. At the gray of the dawn, we left the mules tied to the chaparral bushes, and mounting our horses, rode fearlessly into the town of China, until we arrived at the plaza, where we formed. As w^e rode through the streets, the people commenced barricading the doors and windows, in evident alarm, and, save one or two men standing on the corners, there was no one to be seen. Our sur- prise was somewhat great, as we could see nothing of our com- pany ! Presently, however, v/e discovered a few heads peeping around a corner, and then drawn quickly back ; this was repeated several times, showing that the persons were evidently trying to make us out ; when the rest of our company was seen riding up towards the plaza, having taken us at first for Mexican troops. As Captain " Ben" rode in, the rim of his hat was turned up — a w^ay he had when any thing crossed him, and a sign for all not to be famihar. It was evident the game had escaped us; so, without saying a word, he merely ordered us to go back for the mules, and then follow him as fast as possible. After we had followed the enemy's trail for some six miles, we ar- rived at the river bank, and discovered the place where they had crossed. But there we found they had scattered out, so as to pre- vent pursuit, and our orders did not permit us to follow them far- ther. On our return to Jown, we passed the place where their CAMP AT CHINA. 83 rear-guard had been, and saw several of their camp-women still there, who had been left behind in their hurried retreat. A dense smoke was raised by these women, soon after we passed, as a signal for their spies, who were supposed to be secreted in the hills. This is one of the means of the Mexicans for making signals to each other in time of war, as the smoke can be seen many miles. There was much plunder and other property in the camp of the women, but we passed without molesting them, and proceeded to the town of China. CHAPTER IX. Camp at China— The School-house— Our return March — A Family up a Tree — We proceed to Passa Sacate — Trinidad Alderet — Encampment in the Prairie — McCuUoch's Story of his father's Compass — Camp on the San Juan— How to keep dry— Rancho Grande— The old Texian's true Story— Our return to Cornargo. On again entering the town of China, on the morning of the 5th, we encamped in a large yard of one of the main buildings, having a good wall around it, near the plaza. Here we unsaddled our horses, and sent some Mexicans after corn and fodder ; and being worn-out, sleepy, and hungry, we concluded to stay until the next day. We had already loitered away the morning in the fruitless pursuit, and in attending to our horses, so that it was twelve o'clock before we got any thing to eat. But that day afforded us the treat of a good dinner, for we had plenty of mutton, chickens, and tortillas. In the building adjoining, were two quite pretty women, who were very kind to us, and told us that Col. Seguin, who had once commanded a company of Texians at the " battle of San Jacinto," had only left the town after the report of the gun, and had taken some men and gone out to ascertain its cause, not expecting us until the next day. Had our company, then, not been arrested in their course by the alarm, they would have reached the bank of the river, and thus cut off the retreat of his rear-guard. The country which we have passed through is very fine ; the hills are very high, and in the distance there are several mountains visible, which give to the whole a splendid appearance. The town of China is quite small, not containing over 1500 in- habitants. It has a neat Httle church, and the alcalde's house is a fine building ; but his honour took good care not to show himself to us. Near the plaza is also a school-house, the first we ever saw in Mexico. Out of curiosity, we paid the school-master a visit. The school contained about twenty or thirty little ragged 84 A FAMILY IN A TREE. boys and girls, and the principal branches taught were reading and writing. The boys had no slates, and used instead sand boards, drawing their letters with a stick, which served for a pencil. The school- master was a thin, spare man, with a hatchet face, and seemed to think himself of more importance than any other person in the place, which we had good reason to believe. At night, after supper, the guard was paraded, with instructions, in case of a surprise, to fire a gun as the signal for a rally, when we were all to assem- ble at our captain's quarters. Just before day, the next morning, an alarm was given, which proved to be false, but which had assembled all our men to quar- ters, and as it was intended that we should have an early start, the men were ordered to get breakfast. Notwithstanding that the night had passed offquietly, yet it was not without an attempt to take us prisoners ; for the alcalde had ridden off to Rancho Ei Toro, and tried all his powers of persuasion to make the rancheros rise against us, but their fears of " los Texanos" could not be overcome, or else we might have enjoyed some sport. As we rode down to the river bank to water our horses, we met the young girls carrying jars, who were also going after water. One or two were rather pretty, and very smilingly bid us "buenos dias" as we reached the bank ; when a young Ranger, celebrated for his gallantry, taking a jar from one of the girls, filled it for her, and placed it on her head ; thanking him for his kindness with a look of modesty, she took his hand and kissed it. At 5, A. M., we were in the saddle again, and passing by Rancho El Toro, we soon after turned off and took the road to Passa Sa- cate, where it was supposed we would find some of Seguin's men, the place being fortified. As we passed along, we saw a man and woman up a tree off from the road, lying at their ease looking at us, while some little ones lay nestled round about them ! By placing poles across the branches, and in the forks of the tree, and spreading layers of grass, &c., they had made quite a comfortable nest of it. The man was a shepherd, and having^a large flock to tend, had made his home in the tree. We were told that it was frequently the case with this class of people, who were often some miles from a rancho, tending sheep, and that they take this means to preserve themselves from the wild animals and reptiles of the country. At 9, a. m., we arrived at Passa Sacate, a miserable- looking place, with a fortification built upon a hill, which we went up to examine. We saw several suspicious fellows about, but met with no force. As we passed through the rancho, our first-lieu- tenant, McMullen, recognised a Mexican, who proved to be " Trini- dad Alderet," a late heutenant at the battle of Mier, and who took 85 down the names of the Texian prisoners. He was very much alarmed, having also recognised McMullen, and would not let the men pay for any thing that they desired to purchase. Continuing our march, we crossed a deep ravine, through a dense chaparral thicket, until 2, p. m., when we encamped to graze our horses, and get our dinners. After resting an hour or so, we continued on through a wild, waste, prairie country, following a little path until about 9, p. M., when we encamped for the night. We had met with but one stream of water during this day's travel, and we had no supper, as fires were not allowed, for fear of discovering our posi- tion to the enemy. Our horses were staked behind a little thicket, and after posting the line of sentinels, we lay down on our blankets. While speaking about the course we had travelled, and referring to our compass, Capt. McCulloch related the following anecdote: "An old woodman," said he, "seldom wants a compass so long as he can see the sun, and even when it is cloudy you can always tell where the sun is, by a slight shadow from objects, be it ever so obscured. I recollect once I went a hunting with a gentleman and my father, and crossing the river in a boat, we hauled it up on the shore, and put out into the woods. Well, we did not meet with much luck, and so we put back for the boat. It was a cloudy day, and the gentleman carried a pocket compass with him, and pointed out our course back. We followed the direction for some time, but could see no river. That we were lost was now beyond a doubt. And father becoming tired of following the course of the gentleman's compass, determined to be guided by it no longer. " 'Well, it is strange,' said the gentleman, 'the compass can^t be wrong !' " 'D — n the compass,' said father, ' my boy Ben is worth all the compasses I ever saw ;' and turning to me, said, ' if you don't take us right straight to that boat, Ben, you shall never go on another hunt.' " So I took a straight shoot, just by guessing the way the woods ran, and brought them to the boat, sure enough ! As we were stepping in the boat, the gentleman said, with a laugh — " ' Well, that boy Ben of yours, Mr. McCulloch, is a perfect magnetic needle. He will make as great a geographer as his cele- brated namesake.' " That night we made two prisoners, and at daylight on the morn- ing of the 7th, started without breakfast, and rode on, passing several ranches, until 10, a. m., when we encamped on the banks of the San Juan, twenty miles from Comargo. On the road we met an old man carrying eggs and chickens to market at Comargo, whom we immediately bought out, and saved him the trouble of his journey. We had a most capital dinner of eggs, chickens, and 8 86 HOW TO KEEP DRY. coffee, and fine peaches for dessert, which were brought to us from the neighbouring ranchos. The river here was very rapid and obstructed by rocks, with steep, rugged banks. Several of the boys went in bathing here, but the water was too turbid to be pleasant. In the afternoon a heavy rain was seen coming up, and hurried preparations were made to preserve our arms from the wet. A young Ranger was seen taking off his clothes, which he care- fully rolled up in his blanket, and placing them at the foot of a tree, covered the whole with his saddle, when the rain commenced falling in torrents. He stood out in its midst, with perfect indif- ference, while the rest of his comrades were wrapped in their blankets, and had sought the shelter of the trees from the storm. " What are you doing out there, Harry ?" said one of his messmates. " Taking a shower-bath," said Harry. " Why, your clothes will get all wet, you fool." " No they won't, either," said Harry, " for they are wrapped up in my blanket. " And where is your blanket ?" " Why, under my saddle, snug enough !" said Harry, with a knowing look. " Well, that beats me," said his messmate, bursting into a loud laugh, in which all heartily joined ; " who ever would have thought of that way to keep dry !" The sun shortly after came out, but before we succeeded in drying our blankets and clothes, the order was given to " saddle up," and Harry was the only one in the company that rejoiced in having a dry suit to his back. We rode on till 8, p. m., when we arrived at Rancho Grande, where we encamped for the night. Here we made fires and cooked supper, and bought corn from the Mexicans for our horses, which were put into a coral, or cattle pen. There were a great many women here, who did a good business, selHng us tortillas and goat's milk. They were very sulky, and only wanted our money, showing that they took no pleasure to serve us. We now felt secure from surprise, and after the guard had been detailed, we spread our blankets around the pen, and lay down for a good sleep, our saddles as usual serving for a pillow. It was a fine moonlight night, and although we were very tired, yet the merry laughter which rang on the still air, proved that fatigue had no power to depress our spirits. While thus lying on our blankets, smoking our pipes and cigars, a story was called for by one of our mess, and the oldest Texian of our party was urged by all to spin us a yarn. Clearing his throat, and replenishing his pipe, the old fellow thus comnienced : " I don't know much about story -telling, boys, but I can tell you Tlie Abduclion. — p. S7 THE OLD TEXIAn's STORY. 87 of a thing that once happened in my settlement, which, if it is not altogether new to most of you, at least has the plain truth to recommend it. Some of you recollect old Andrew Lockhart, who used to hve down in the big bend of the Warloupe, (Guada- loupe) just below the Gluero settlement. At the time I speak of, he had a daughter just seventeen, and as beautiful and as dehcate as a prairie flower. Many a youngster's head was turned by her beauty, and many a brave lad's heart burned to win and wear the ' Rose of the Warloupe.' Old Andrew was moughty proud of his gal, and loved her as deeply as any father could love a child. One summer evening she strolled out in the prairie to gather flowers, when suddenly a war party of the Comanches dashed out of the timber bottom, and rushed upon her. She shrieked and turned to fly, but it was no use ; a delicate gal could hardly escape such fleet pursuers as were on her trail, and before she had run twenty yards, the chief dashed by, and stooping from the saddle as he passed, seized her around the waist, and raised her by his strong arm to a seat before him. Without halting his horse for a mo- ment, was this feat accomplished, and before the poor gal could scarcely cry aloud for aid, she was borne rapidly away towards the mountains. " Her old father was frantic with grief and rage. Hastily col- lecting his neighbours and friends, he pursued the savages who had thus forcibly stolen his child, and with the sagacity and skill of an old frontierman, tracked them to their mountain haunts. Late one evening, we came in sight of the Comanche encamp- ment, and finding that we had not been discovered by the In- dians, concluded to defer the attack until daybreak on the next morning. Secreting ourselves as well as we could, we waited with impatience for the hour of the coming fight. As soon as the first streak of hght was seen in the sky, the Texian war-shout was raised, and we rushed down upon the village. ♦' The Comanches turned out in numbers, and a fierce battle began. I cannot describe to you the perils we went through that day. There were only about forty of us, while the Comanches were 200 strong. Notwithstanding the great odds against us, we fought them desperately from daylight until dark, and many of their greatest warriors fell before our steady fire. But it wouldn't do — it wouldn't do — the odds were too great ; they overpowered us, and we were compelled to fall back. " Old Andrew fought like a devil that day. On every part of the field his voice was heard cheering his friends on, and you could see his white hairs waving in the wind as he headed a charge, or sometimes fought single-handed v/ith some big warrior of the tribe. Several times he was within a few feet of the tent 88 EETURN TO COMARGO. where his daughter was confined, and could hear her voice call- ing on him for aid. But it wouldn't do — he was driven back with the rest of us, and we dragged him away when we retreated. He was the last man to quit the fight, and seemed to have been the mark for every bullet and arrow that was shot at us, yet, strange to say, he escaped unhurt. We were not strong enough to whip them, said the old Texian, as his voice grew husky with emotion, and we were compelled to leave the poor gal in the hands of her savage enemies." " Well ; what became of her," said a young Ranger, drawing his hand across his eyes. " She was delivered up sometime afterwards, when we made a treaty with the Comanches at San Antonio. She returned to her father's house, but she never recovered from the hardships and cruelties she endured at the hands of the Indians. She was al- ways melancholy and downcast. Her heakh was injured, her spirits gone, and her heart broken. She lived only a few months, then drooped and died. Curses on them Comanche dogs !" said the old Texian, grinding his teeth in the excitement of his feel- ings, " I have never sent a bullet through one of their infernal hearts from that day to this, without remembering as I pulled the trigger, the fate of that poor gal." The next morning, at 6, a. m., we left Rancho Grande, and nooned it at at the Sugar Rancho ; where, after grazing our horses, we left at 2, p. m. — and at 6, p. m., arrived safe back at our old camp at Comargo. The result of our reconnoissance of the road was, that it was impracticable for the movement of artillery, on account of the narrow passages and deep ravines. During our absence. Gen. Taylor, with the whole of the First Division, had arrived, consisting of the 3d and 4th infantry, composing the Third Brigade, under Col. Garland ; and the 1st and 2d infantry, under Col. Riley, composing the Fourth Brigade, with Capt. Ridgely's battery of flying artillery, the whole under the command of Gen. Twiggs. We found our friends all well, and being invited to spend the evening with Lieut. D , a group of anxious listen- ers was formed around us, while we were made to detail the ad- ventures of the China Scout. CAMP AT COMARGO. 89 CHAPTER X. Camp at Comargo — Scout to Punta Aguda — Lake Guardado — The Chase and the Death — Encampment near Mier — Captain Duncan in command — " Jack Everitt" — The Fandango at Punta Aguda — The Search for Canales and Col. Rameres — The attempted Escape of a Mexican Officer — Corporal Bawk and the Mexican Ladies — The Dance — The midnight March. Comargo had now become the most important point of military operations on the whole line. Many of the houses had been rebuilt, and the town presented the most busy scenes of acti- vity. The quartermaster's and commissary's departments were crowded to overflowing, with people on all sorts of business, making contracts and reports, receiving orders, &c., &c. Hun- dreds of Mexicans were daily employed as labourers — and large contracts had been made for the hire of pack-mules, at fifty cents per day. The camp of the Regulars had been removed farther down the river San Juan, on its banks — a fair level spot having been cleared up for the purpose. The long lines of tents of the different regiments of the divisions presented a beautiful scene. The regiments had commenced drilling, and the batta- lion drills at evening parade, when the different bands beat off, made a grand military display. The Mexicans were continually hovering around the camp of the Regulars — selling fruit, &c., and offering horses for sale. It was often suspected that many who came into camp on a pretext to sell their horses, were Mexi- can officers in disguise — and such the fact afterwards proved to be — for they had been detected taking notes of the force of the different regiments, &c. But they never were molested. Such was the state of things, that it was difficult to tell a mocho from a greaser, or in other words, a soldier from a friendly Mexi- can. It may here be necessary to explain, as the terms are fre- quently made use of, that mocho is a low Spanish word for a foot- soldier, and the term greaser we suppose is a corruption of the word grazier, the class of peons or labourers of the country. As the Mexican officers and soldiers never dressed in uniform, only when with their companies or regiments, we could not, of course, distinguish them from citizens, which gave them a double advan- tage over us. They would come into our camps, spy out all our movements, and keep their forces continually advised of all our operations. Thus, it was impossible to go on any expedition, or to 8* 90 THE FEUDAL SYSTEM IN MEXICO. undertake any secret service, without their knowing it and taking methods to defeat us. By these means was the noble and daring Capt. Thornton ambuscaded. He received his orders at 6, p. m., to ascertain where the enemy had crossed the Rio Grande, and at 1, A. M., the same night, an express arrived, informing the Mexi- cans of his coming. Thus, too, have many other expeditions failed, from the facihties afforded them of knowing all our intended operations. To give a general idea of the people of Mexico, we must go back to the old feudal times of Europe ; for the same system, with modifications due to the pecuHarities of the country, now exists in Mexico. As in the olden days of chivalry, when the vassals and retainers held from the liege lord or baron, by mihtary or other service, and the serfs or bondsmen, originally slaves, or becoming so by indebtedness to the lord, were bought and sold with the land ; so too with Mexico. The rancheros who reside on the large estates or haciendas of the Mexican Dons, answer to vassals and retainers, and are subject at times to do mihtary service, akhough not so severely enjoined upon them as in former days. The peons, Avho are the lowest order of Mexicans, are the serfs or slaves, whose labour belongs to the owner of the estate, to whom they have be- come indebted, and who are generally kept by their poverty in this state of base servitude. The third, or medium class, is com- posed of those who own small property or farms, or hold from the Don by socage tenure, paying a certain rent, and who also hold peons, or serfs, under them. The fourth class consists of the alcaldes or mayors of the towns, (who as magistrates hold courts of civil and criminal jurisdiction,) and the Dons, or large land- holders, who are subject to the tyranny and authority of the mih- tary chieftains or despots. Thus, as in feudal times, when the barons called upon the lesser lords and their vassals to support them in some feud, so now in Mexico : when her mihtary chief- tains are arrayed against each other, they call upon the Dons, (not,it is true, with the same authority which the barons exercised, but which they usurp,) who in turn call upon their rancheros, or retainers, to support the cause which they willingly or unwil- hngly sustain. The higher classes of Mexicans are the Creoles of the country, and descendants of Europeans and some few Americans. The lower class are a mingled race of the whites and Indians, called mestizoes, of the Indian and negro, of quadroons and mulattoes. When Mexico was a colony of Spain, so numerous were the de- grees and shades of colour of the populace, that the king had the power of conferring the honour of whiteness upon an individual RECONNOISSANCE OF THE MIER ROAD. 91 of any colour, by a decree of the Audencia,* which for ever after gave him all the rank and privileges of being white. Guerrero, the second president of Mexico, was a griffs one darker than a quadroon, while others who took part in the government were of the pure Indian blood. These grades exist to this day. As we have seen in the last chapter, the road to China having been deemed inadvisable as a line of march for our army, orders were soon after issued for us to make a reconnoissance of the road by Mier, as far as Serralvo, as the army was now ready for its march to Monterey, and only awaited our report. On the 12th of August, tlien, three days after our arrival from China, a portion of our company, with a detachment of Capt. Gillespie's Rangers, accompanied by Capt. James Duncan, of the 3d artillery, and Lieut. Wood of the engineer corps, with a body- guard of four men, and a guide named Baker, were in the saddle for another scout. At 8 o'clock, a. m., we left Comargo, crossed the San Juan, and took the road to Mier. The day was powerful hot, the thermometer being by sensation about 110°. Our horses suffered much, and we had to travel very slowly. After four miles, we passed Rancho Risa, and encamped two miles beyond, on the road-side, and stripped our horses to graze, while we sought the shade of the chaparral bushes. Here we stopped till about 5, p. M., when we proceeded on about three miles, and encamped be- side a beautiful lake of fresh water, called Guardado, one of the most lovely spots we ever saw ; the fine large trees on its banks afforded a grateful shade for man and horse. There is quite a large rancho there, by the same name, and little Mexican boys came down to our camp, bringing us tortillas, eggs and fruit. The lake is about two miles long, nearly half a mile wide, and very deep. Its lim- pid waters were too tempting to be resisted, and many of us bathed in its refreshing coolness. The opposite shore was lined with a deep verdure, while here and there might be seen a flower of richest fragrance, whose perfumes scented the evening air, as the melting rays of the setting sun cast a flood of light over the dim- pled surface of the waters, and the wild lay of the woodland bird echoed sweetly over the lake, from the entangled thicket. After a hearty supper, we saddled up, and at 7^ p. m., left the lake, taking a W. S. W. course through a wild rugged country. About nine o'clock at night, we crossed a deep ravine, on the other side of which was a thick chaparral wood. As the head of the command turned an angle in the road, a horseman came riding towards us. " Buena noche," said our guide to him. * Vide Encyc. Amer. 92 A HORSE-THIEF SHOT. "Buena noche," replied the Mexican, without stopping his horse. *' Stop," said our guide. "No time for stopping now," said the Mexican, and pricking his horse with his spurs, dashed on. "Stop him," cried McCulJoch, "stop him, boys!" and giving chase, off he galloped in pursuit, followed by several others. The Mexican was prevented by the rear of the company from crossing the ravine, and turning his horse, broke into the thick chaparral wood. There was no moon, and the man's escape was favoured by the darkness of the wood. It was rough riding, and the low hanging branches gave them many a scratch as they rushed on in the chase. Suddenly the report of several pistols were heard — and then all was still. Our captain and the men soon after came back, the former without his hat, and reported that they had shot the man, as he was attempting to cross a bayou, in making a circuit round to gain the road, and on rising the other side, he fell from his horse, which was seen to gain the bank without its rider. It was afterwards ascertained that the Mexican was a notorious horse-thief, and was actually riding one of our own horses, stolen from us a few weeks ago, which ac- counted for the hurry of the rider, who well said, " it was no time for stopping." The horse was thus restored to its owner. Proceed- ing on, our road leading over barren hills, we left Mier to the right three miles distant, and dismounted, being about twenty-six miles from Comargo. Here our Captain was taken very ill, and deter- mined to go to Mier, leaving the expedition in command of Captain Duncan. It was some time after midnight, and Capt. Duncan or- dered the command to camp until day. We merely loosened the girths of our saddles, and lay down on the bare ground, holding the cabestros or halters of our horses in our hands or tied to our arms, and thus snatched a few hours' sleep. On the morning of the 18th, before day had yet dawned, we were again on the road. The men were much jaded from the hot and fatiguing march of the preceding day, and having had but a few hours' rest, they had not yet recovered from their drow- siness. Our horses were quite fresh, however. We rode silently along, many of the men dozing in the saddles, until 8 o'clock, when we encamped off from the road by the side of a pleasant little creek, where we staked out our horses to graze, posted sen- tinels on the road, and got breakfast. Here we remained until 4 o'clock, p. M., the weather being too hot to travel in the middle of the day. As we were ordered to saddle up, a horseman was seen coming down the road, who being hailed, rode into our camp. It proved to be " Jack Everitt," son of Judge Everitt, of Alabama, A SURPRISE AT PUNTA AGUDA. 93 a young man who had been living some years in Mexico, trading. He was dressed hke a Mexican, and spoke the language very well, and was now employed in the quarter-master's department as interpreter and contractor. He was so well known throughout that part of the country, that he was generally allowed to travel unmolested. He afterwards joined our company, as the army moved on, and fought with the Texians at the storming of Monte- rey. After several questions, Everitt told us that he had left Punta Aguda that morning, and the night previous he was at a large fandango there, and another was to be given that night to Gen. Canales, and Col. Christoval Rameres, who were expected to attend it. It was immediately determined to visit the scene of festivity, as it lay on our route ; Capt. Duncan giving us a carte blanche to attend the dance, and the boys brightened up at the pros- pect of the frolic. We pushed on then, for that place, thinking to make two distinguished prisoners. At about 6, p. m., we met two Mexicans going towards Mier, one of whom was Canales's brother. He carried in his hand a common straw hat, besides the one he had on, and as we had nothing but a cloth cap to shel- ter ourself from the sun, we asked him what he would take for it ? He replied he did not wish to sell it, and as it was no time for making bargains, we took the hat from him, and giving him a dollar, bade him Aclios. At dark, the command was formed into single file, and Capt. Duncan had his charger saddled, giving the mule he had ridden to one of his men to lead. We now pro- ceeded on at a rapid rate until about 10, p. m., when we arrived within a short distance of Punta Aguda, and a halt was called, for the purpose of reconnoitering before going into the place. We were delayed some twenty minutes, when all the arrangements having been made, and a guard stationed at a bridge, which we crossed to get into the place, we marched on, sure of our game. As we neared the town, we could hear the music, among which was a bass drum, which seemed to drown all other sounds. On we gal- loped in order to take them by surprise, and to prevent escape. We had now gained the avenues, where sentinels were again posted with orders to shoot any man trying to escape, when the dogs set up such a barking as almost deafened our ears ; still we were not discovered, and we kept on until we reached the large square, which was most brilhantly hghted up, and which con- tained some two hundred men and women, engaged in dancing. W"e immediately surrounded the square, while their music kept up such a din that they had not even heard our approach, not- withstanding the barking of the dogs. And not until we had completely surrounded them, and our interpreter cried out several times at the top of his voice, Silencio! did we succeed in attract- 94 THE RANGERS AT A FANDANGO. ing their attention. As the music ceased, on looking up, they were struck with terror and astonishment, at beholding themselves surrounded on all sides, by fierce and savage-looking men with rifles in their hands, pointing from every direction towards them. The women shrieked aloud, and ran towards the houses which lined one side of the square. We told them that the first man who attempted to move would be shot, but that the women might go where they pleased. Canales and Rameres were then demanded. But they protested most solemnly that they were not there, declaring that the dignitaries had both left at sun- down. They then attempted to put out the hghts, which was prevented by threatening them with death. It was known that Rameres had a house there, and they were requested to point it out, which being done, we were ordered by Capt. Duncan to proceed with two men, to search it. As we rode off, we called the attention of our commander to a movement making in one cor- ner of the square. On reaching the house of Rameres, our entrance was strenuously opposed at first by an old woman, who, at last was forced to give way, while one of us entered, the other two guarding the door ; a strict search was made throughout the house, but no one was discovered. On returning, we heard the report of two rifles in quick succession, and thought that the dance had now indeed opened in earnest. As we galloped up, we found that two men had attempted to make their escape, and were shot at ; killing one, who proved to be a captain of Mexican in- fantry, and wounding another in the arm, who was supposed to be a . soldier. The latter was caught and brought back, and, while our surgeon was occupied in setting the man's arm, which had been broken, the music was ordered to strike up, and the young girls again joined in the dance, having assured them of our friendship. As soon as the dance had recommenced. Corporal Bawk, one of Duncan's men, a tall, good-looking young fellow, jumped the enclosure, and the music playing to our astonishment an old Virginia reel, the corporal led off a very pretty girl, to the great amusement of the lookers on, surprising the girls with his activity in the dance. This was too much for us, and as the reel ended, they next struck up a waltz, and we followed suit by jumping the enclosure, and approaching a girl of pretty figure and feature, who was hanging languishingly on the arm of a well-dressed greaser, we bid them buenas noches, and asked the Mexican in our best Spanish, if we might dance with his fair partner. The young girl gave her assent, but the Mexican replied he did not understand us, at the same time shaking his fore-finger signifl- cantly. We then asked him if he understood Spanish, giving him an unmistakeable look, and carelessly placing our hand on a MARCH TO SERRALVO. 95 pistol in our belt. " Si Caballero," he replied, relinquishing the fair one, who taking our arm, we were soon whirling in the mazy- dance. A few others now joined us, selecting the fairest for their partners, thus letting them see that we were just as ready to frolic as to fight. After the dance, refreshments were served round, consisting of sweet cakes, mu scaly* and agua ardiente. It had been ascertained that Canales and Rameres had both been there, but had left suddenly about dark, without giving any notice of their departure, and were supposed to be lurking in the neighbourhood. They most certainly had gained secret infor- mation of our coming ; and it was thought the brother of Canales must have turned back by some near route, and conveyed to them the news, when they quietly slipped off without informing the people at the rancho, to conceal their cowardice. It was now midnight, and the surgeon having finished setting the wounded man's arm, we were ordered to horse ; so, bidding the fair seno- ritas buenas noches, much against our will, we took the road to- wards Serralvo. The men were evidently disappointed on being ordered to march, as it was confidently expected that we would have camped for the night at Punta Aguda. Not so, however, with our captain ; he well knew the danger of our position, and that we were liable to be cut off or surrounded, should we tarry long enough at one place for the enemy to concentrate, or for in- formation to be carried in advance of us. Thus we kept on riding through the dark woods, while the low hanging branches of the trees frequently gave us many a scratch, and would occasionally knock off our hats, much to our vexation, and which forced us to keep our eyes open — for the excitement had worn off, and the men nearly all felt that heavy drowsiness which succeeds it, to say nothing of the fatigue of the march. At 3, A. M., we encamped on the roadside, near a rapid little stream of water, where the grass was very fine. Unsaddling our horses, we took them to water, and then tied them by their cabes- tros to graze. Sentinels were posted, and the order was given for the men to hold themselves in readiness for any emergency. We threw ourselves upon the dewy grass, with our arms lying beside us, and although hungry, we thought only of gaining an hour of sleep. * A strong liquor made from the aloe tree. 96 THE TOWN OF SERRALVO. CHAPTER XI. Scout to Serralvo — Description of the Serralvo Mountains, and the Town — Our Reception — Encampment on the Rio Alamo — Our departure for Agua Lejos — Encampment — Return — Description of the place — The Alcalde — Paso Isla — The crossing — The Story of " Strabismus Bill" — Arrival at Mier — Return to Comargo — The Grand Review. At the dawn of day on the 14th, we were aroused from our slumbers, and ordered into the saddle. We were always ready, as our toilet was soon made, it merely consisting of wash- ing our faces when the opportunity offered itself. The soft balmy clime of Italy could not have surpassed the ray of light which first broke in upon the morn, as it met, and was kissed by the sweet breeze that welcomed one of the most delightful daj^-s that ever broke over a southern land. The Serralvo mountains, which we had long seen at a great distance, now appeared quite close to us ; and as they loomed up in the heavens, presenting a dim bluish colour, they filled us with wonder and delight. As the sun gradually rose, tinging their summits with its golden hues, the dark grayish mist lifted and disclosed a deep rich green, most grateful to the eye. Silvery streams, murmuring sweetly, mean- dered along the road ; on either side of which were seen cattle quietly grazing ; and here and there flowers of richest hue and fragrance so tempting, that we could not help dismounting to pluck them. There was that impressive stillness prevailing through the woods, which one is never made to feel in any other place, and which was uninterrupted, save by the occasional carols of some bright plumed bird as it sang its morning lay. At 7, A. M., we crossed a little stream, and ascended the hill, of rock or limestone, on which is situated the town of Serralvo, seventy-five miles from Comargo. Posting sentinels at the ave- nues, the main body entered the town, and rode into the plaza. Here we formed into line, sitting on our horses, while Capt. Dun- can, with the interpreter, rode up to the alcalde's house, and de- manded the surrender of the place, for the purpose of establish- ing a military depot ; which was readily acceded to, on assuring them that individual rights would be respected. Serralvo is cer- tainly a most beautiful place, and, indeed, its site is a most roman- tic spot. The town is well built of stone, and contains about 3000 souls. It has a neat pretty church, finely situated near the river Alamo, which runs through the town. It also contains a well-built arsenal, with battlements, and the gardens were most delightful, and filled with fruit-trees. It lies about eight miles from the base of the Serralvo mountains, the highest peaks of which are about 1200 feet high. THE SERRALVO MOUNTAINS. 9*? We then rode through the town, and encamped about a quarter of a mile from its outskirts, on the Rio Alamo, a very rapid and bold current, cool and as clear as crystal, running over occasional rocks, and forming little falls. Here we obtained plenty of corn and fodder for our horses. The inhabitants treated us very kindly /or our money, and came into our camp, selHng us melons, peaches, deli- cious grapes, pomegranates, abocates, (a species of egg plant,) cakes, milk, viands, &c. After a most delightful bath in the river, we had a sumptuous feast ; the alcalde having sent a basket to our captain whose mess we happened to be in, filled with nice viands, tomatoes, roast kid, with sauce piquant, pies, &c. We then took a sound nap, under the fine shade of a large tree, and at 4|, p. m., saddled up for Agua Lejos, or the town of distant waters, which lay to the westward of our course on our way back. Crossing the Rio Alamo, we rode along through a bottom surrounded by very high hills. Off to the left, we passed a rancho situated at the top of one of these hills, and as we neared it we saw two men riding close to the brow of the hill, spying out. There was an evident excitement among them, and we halted, while the advance guard went on ahead with the guide. We now had to ascend a high ridge of hills. It was very hot, and the hills were steep and stony. Having gained the top of one, we saw along the ridge to the right, quite a body of armed men, whom we first took for the enemy ; but it was soon ascertained that it was our advance guard, and that we had taken the road up the wrong hill. So we had to descend and climb another. When we reached the bot- tom again, we saw a man holding a horse at the foot of the hill of the rancho, as if ready for some one to make his escape. Some supposed that Canales might be secreted there. It was a most villanous looking place, and for its means of defence, it would have made a good bandit's haunt, which it looked more like than any thing else. Our time was too precious, however, to be wasted on surmises, so we rode on, and joined the advance. About sundown, we came to a large rancho, where we saw a two- story brick house ! the only one of the kind we saw in Mexico. At half-past 9, p. m., we crossed the river Agua Lejos, on which is situated the town, and where stands an old mill of the style of the sixteenth century. We were told that there was a force here of 200 troops. On riding through the place, however, which is very beautiful, no one impeded our way — and pressing an old Mexican into our service, we told him to carry us to a corn-field, which he said was about half a mile off. Taking the lead, on he rode, winding around fences and lanes for about two miles, still without coming to any corn-field. The men were tired and get- ting impatient, and thought the old fellow might be leading us into 9 98 THE CROSSING OF PASO ISLA. an ambuscade, or had some motive for taking us such a round ; so he was threatened to be shot if he did not immediately show us a corn-field, which he soon afterwards found, with a fine cha- parral fence around it, and plenty of good pasturage. Here we encamped for the night. At dayhght on the morning of the 15th, the men were ordered to eat what they had for breakfast ; after which, twenty men were detailed by Capt. Duncan to go back with him to town ; while Lieut. Wood was ordered to proceed on with the command to Paso el Coyote, and wait for us. We then rode back to town, and stopped at the alcalde's house in the plaza. A long parley took place, which resulted in his honour acquiescing to all we wished. He was extremely polite, and sent us out some agua- pie, a kind of wine, and furnished us with some cigarritos and puros. While thus formed in the plaza, we met the ladies coming from mass, dressed with their rebosas and mantellinas ; they looked very neat, and dressed with more taste than any we had yet seen. They greeted us very kindly as they passed, and then stood off, on one side of the square, till we left the place. We here obtained the information, that we would not be able to cross a river at the Pass without great difficulty ; so, two men were hired to accompany us with axes to cut a way through the thickets, and to fell a tree across the river. We proceeded on to Paso el Coyote, but found that Lieut. Wood had gone to Paso Isla, so we kept their trail until we arrived at that place, where we found the command waiting for us. Here it was determined to cross, though it was a very ugly place, for the current ran about six miles an hour. A large tree was felled across the river, on which we crossed with our saddles, blankets and clothes ; and then being stripped, we took our horses down the bank and swam them over, landing about a quarter of a mile below. The sun was very hot, and coming out on the other side, we had to ride bareback through a chaparral thicket, back to the place where we had de- posited our rigging. Of course, we did not escape without many a scratch from the entangled thorny brush. It is strange what scenes one will go through ; what obstacles and difficulties over- come, when forced by the necessity of circumstances, and which, when passed, seem only as trifles. And yet, to those who never led a life of adventure, these trials seem as difficulties insur- mountable. The command being ordered to encamp — fires were kindled, and the different messes went to work preparing dinner, which consisted of a biscuit, a piece of broiled bacon, and a cup of coffee. About 5, p. M., we saddled up, and taking the road to Mier, con- tinued on for twenty-five miles, when we encamped nine miles 99 from that town, on a beautiful level green, near a thick copse of chaparral. Captain Duncan here left the command in charge of Lieut. Wood, and after supper, proceeded on with the guide and his body-guard to Mier, and Comargo, in order to report the result of the reconnoissance, as no time was to be lost. We were now out of the woods-^Xh-Ai is, we felt secure from any surprise or at- tack, being close to Mier, which was garrisoned by Capt. J. R. Vinton's company of the artillery battalion. It was a fine star- light night, and the men were reclining on their blankets around in groups, talking over the incidents of our late scouts. " Well, give me the girls of Punta Aguda, yet," said one of a group, "they are prettier, and better dressed than any I've seen." " I don't know," said a young fellow named Clark, " the alcalde's daughter at Serralvo is hard to beat." " Not half as pretty as Matilde,''^ replied another, who had an obliquity of sight. " Who is Matilde, Tom," asked two or three. " Why, the girl we saw at Agua Lejos, with the pink rebosa" said Tom. " Well, she was as pretty, and better dressed than any I've seen," said Clark. " How did you find out her name, Tom?" said the first speaker. " Why, I asked her, to be sure ; she was coming from mass, with a crowd of other girls, and as they passed us, they all curte- sied, and said, ' buenas dias ;' well, this girl looked so neat and pleasant, that I couldn't help stopping her, and asking her name ; and when she told it to me, I think she showed the prettiest set of teeth I ever saw." " Ha, ha, ha — Tom is in love with a Mexican girl," said Clark. "Take my advice, Tom," said one of Gillespie's Rangers, " and never marry a Mexican girl, for it would be dangerous for 2/OM," giving the pronoun a mysterious emphasis. " How so," said Tom, with an inquiring look. " Oh, it's a long story," said the Ranger, " and then I don't like to tell these love tales." " Oh, yes, let's have it," said several ; and Tom's curiosity be- ing excited, his entreaties grew the more earnest. " Well," said the Ranger, as he resettled himself on his blanket, and knocking the ashes out of his pipe, carefully put it away. " Well, I once knew a fellow who, for many years, was engaged in the smuggling trade with the Mexicans on the Pacific coast. He was said to have been born in the States. But it was hard to tell. He had black eyes and hair, and, if he had ever been white, 100 THE ranger's love STORY. the sun had shaded his complexion to a dark brown. He spoice the lingo perfectly well, and, if he was born in the States, his English some how had a sort of a twist in it. There were many- strange stories told about him ; and it was said he once hved in Italy. No one ever knew his real name. The Mexicans called him Capitan Bill. He was about five feet si« inches in stature, and rather delicate than robust ; his features were regular, and nothing about him very striking, except that one of his eyes had a notion never to leave the corner nearest his nose." Here the group smiled and turned a look on Tom. " It was about fifteen years ago, at the time of the colonization of Texas, when I was that many years old," continued the Ranger, " that Capitan Bill first came down to our settlement, and there some how he got the name of Strabismus Bill.''^ " Got the name of what ?" said Tom. " Strabismus Bill," repeated the Ranger. " What did they call him that for ?" said Tom. " Why, I believe the way it came about," said the Ranger, " was that Bill fell in love with a lovely girl, who, at the same time, was being courted by the doctor of our settlement. Kate Young was counted the most beautiful girl for miles around, and, as Bill played on the guitar and sang Italian songs, he sorter took her first. But the doctor told her one day that Bill had the stra- hismus, which so alarmed her that she would never see Bill again. It was known all about that Kate had kicked Bill on account of the strabismus, and so long as he remained about them parts they called him Strabismus Bill. " Shortly after, Strabismus Bill disappeared from the settlement, and was not heard of for some years. It was after the Texian war had closed that I met a friend who told me the sad end of poor Bill. It appeared, after he left us, he went back to his old trade. Well, it was while on his way from Mazatlan, where he had been with some Mexican smugglers, and were returning with a cavallada of some 500 mules, laden with teas and silks, which had been clandestinely landed on the coast from the East Indies, that he met with an incident that controlled his after-life. They had so far eluded the vigilance of the excise officers as to gain •the interior. So well did they know the geography of the country, and every path and trail, that, in case of an alarm, they would all scatter out in every direction, so as to avoid pursuit, then strike for the trail on the course of their route, and thus all meet again after one or two days of separation. In those days the smugglers and the bandits made common cause of it, and afforded each other protection. " One night as they were travelling along, they passed a ran- 101 cho, which had heen attacked hy the Indians, and all the people massacred. On entering one of the huts, Bill thought he heard a sigh, and, looking up into a httle loft, he discovered a young girl, who, upon perceiving him, jumped down, and, clasping him around the neck, to his surprise and amazement, and amid a shower of kisses, greeted him as her hrother ! Notwithstanding Bill's protestations to the contrary, still clinging to his neck, she heeded him not, and, with sobs of grief, told him how their parents had been murdered. Bill continued to disclaim the relationship ; but all he could do would not convince her of the mistake ; so he took her up on his horse and carried her to his home. " A few days after their arrival, her true brother made his ap- pearance, he having accidentally stopped at Bill's house on his way home. And, indeed, the resemblance between the two was so striking and remarkable, that it was not strange that even a sister should have been deceived." " Why, was he cross-eyed too ?" said Clark. " Of course he was," answered the Ranger, " or how could he look like Bill ?" " Well," continued he, " as the girl was very beautiful. Bill fell in love with her. Some months afterwards, it was ascertained that she was- the niece of a weakhy Mexican Don, who, having heard of her misfortune, had written to her to come and hve with his family at his hacienda. Bill accompanied her, and asked her uncle's permission to marry her. He consented ; but it was plain the girl married more out of gratitude than from love. She never seemed happy after the marriage. With others she appeared gay enough ; but in the presence of Bill she was always sad. One day it was discovered that she had poisoned him." " Poisoned him !" said Tom, with surprise ; " poisoned him ! what for ?" " Why, some said it was because she was in love with another ; but it was generally attributed to the reason that he was so infernal ugly, and always looked cross at her." A loud laugh burst from the crowd, while Tom rolled himself up in his blanket, and was not heard of any more until next morning. Early on the day of the 16th we were on the road to Mier, where we arrived at 7, a. m. We were warmly greeted by Capt. McCul- loch, who had nearly recovered from his illness, as well as by the officers in command of the town. The company encamped under some large trees, near a beautiful little stream called the Alcantro, a branch of the Rio Grande, which rippled by the town. Here the men got breakfast, and we were plentifully supplied with fruit by the inhabitants. After breakfast, we visited the churches, plaza, prison, and other pubhc b'uildings ; also, the house of Don 9* 102 IIE\1EW OF THE TKOOPS BY GEN. TAYLOR. Domingo Moricio, celebrated for being one of the houses in which the Texians made such a gallant defence. The house bore evi- dent signs of the attack from the many balls and bullet holes. One of our men, who was in this very house during the battle, showed us an oven in the yard, the iron door of which was riddled with bullet holes — the Mexicans having thought at the time that the Texians had sought shelter therein. We were also shown the walls which the Mexicans attempted to scale, but who were driven back with rocks and stones. Don Domingo, who is an Italian, keeps a very good tavern here, and has three very pretty daughters, the eldest of whom, Juanita, spoke tolerably good Eng- lish. Don Domingo had lived for many years in the country, and had married a Mexican woman ; but there was something in his children far above the common Mexican girls — a something which showed blood. Mier is quite a manufacturing town, and in almost every house, you see its inmates occupied with the loom or spin- ning wheel. They make a great number of fine blankets and other articles. There were also several large stores there. Capt. Vinton kindly sent us an invitation to dine, and w^e were introduced to the officers of his mess, with whom we spent a very pleasant evening. At daylight, on the 17th, we left for Comargo. At 10, a. m., we reached Lake Guardado, where we had a fine bath, and made breakfast ; at 3, p. m., left our encampment, and continued on the road to Comargo, Vv^here we arrived at 6, p. m. On the road we took, two prisoners, who had secreted their arms in the chaparral ; but, as the poor devils swore they were only peons, or shepherds, we let them go, although it looked suspicious. We arrived just in time to witness a grand dress-parade and review of the regular troops by Gen. Taylor. It was a fine evening ; the departing sun had lost its fiery rays, a pleasant breeze was floating through the air, and on the beautiful parade ground, about a mile below the town, there stood nearly 4000 men in solid column, Avith bright arms and glistening bayonets extending throughout the long hues. The scene was most beautiful indeed, and the execution of the different evolutions which they performed excited the admiration of all. " 'Twere worth ten years of peaceful life One glance at their array I" There were six regiments of infantry, the artillery battalion, acting as hght infantry, and Duncan's and Bragg's batteries of horse artillery. It was a grand and imposing sight. Gen. Tay- lor was saluted by the batteries of artillery, and after the review, preparatory to the dismissal of the parade, the officers and non- CAMP AT COMARGO. 103 commissioned officers marched to the front, where stood the com- manding officers of the regiments, mounted on their steeds ; while still farther off, was seen Gen. Taylor and his staff, mounted on their war-horses. As the officers saluted, the music beat off in soul-stirring airs, and banners waved gracefully upon the breeze ; when, being dismissed, the different regiments repaired to their respective camps. This was the largest parade that had ever taken place since the last war. The night was spent with our friends, w^ho rejoiced at our re- turn, and after we had finished our tale of the events of the scout, many a song and story went the rounds, and it was long after midnight before we betook ourselves to rest. CHAPTER XII. Camp at Comargo — Movement of the Army — Guerrero — A Mexican Funeral^— San Fernando — Col. Jack Hays — His Character — The Battles of Pierde- nales and the Enchanted Rock — Anecdote — Departure for Serralvo — Camp at Mier — The Lipan Chief, "Flacco" — Camp at Punta Aguda — Arrival at Serralvo — Reconnoissance to Carrisito — Scout to Papagayo— Incidents — Our Return to Serralvo. Immediately on the arrival of Capt. Duncan, who reported favourably of the mihtary route by Serralvo, for the movement of the army to Monterey, orders were issued for General Worth to proceed with the First Brigade of his division, consisting of the 8th Infantry and artillery battalion, to that place ; acting at the same time as an escort to some five hundred pack-mules, laden with subsistence stores. Comargo was now the most busy town in all Mexico ; all was hurry, bustle, and confusion. In fact, the place was in a perfect whirl of activity. Preparations were making for the whole army to move onward. The streets were crowded with teams and soldiers. Steamboats were daily arriving and departing, the ferry-boats were kept constantly crossing the San Juan, as well as mules and horses swimming the same ; and officers and soldiers were packing up, as all unnecessary bag- gage was to be left behind ; in short, every preparation was making for a long march. On the 19th of August, the First Brigade of the Second Division crossed the river, and took up its hne of march. They had not proceeded far, however, before a stampede took place among the mules ; an account of which we take from a letter of Mr. Haile, the well-known correspondent of the " Picayune." " There were some fifteen hundred pack-mules on the other side, ready to carry up provisions to Serralvo. About five hun- 104 MOVEMENT OF THE ARMY. dred of these were making a start with the artillery battalion, which went ahead, when the camp-kettles, which were not pro- perly packed, began to rattle, and the mules commenced kicking up. The soldiers laughed : mules do not like to be laughed at, so they kicked the harder, and tried to run away. The scene was so. ludicrous that the soldiers could not restrain their mirth, and they burst forth in something like a shout. This was more than the mules would bear, and so they bolted in a regular stam- pede style, bounding over the musquit shrubs, in every direc- tion, throwing their burdens of flour and pork high into the air, and kicking them as they came down. The next morn- ing, the thin chaparral in which the stampede came off' was loaded with a strange variety of fruit. Camp-kettles hung from the limbs, looking as if they were of natural growth ; bags of flour lay in the forks, resembling large birds' nests, and the ground was strewn with ' plunder ' of all kinds, looking as if a thousand Yankee pedlars had been chased through the bushes by an army of Mexican robbers, and had thrown away their goods to facili- tate their escape. The Mexican muleteers, assisted by the sol- diers, soon put things to rights, and the train went on, the nose of each mule being tied to the tail of his predecessor. They cut a most ludicrous spectacle, a long train of mules, thus tied, but it effectually put a stop to their kicking and running away." During our absence on the last scout, a deputation of Mexican citizens came in from Guerrero, and tendered to Gen. Taylor a surrender of the town, which is situated on the Rio Grande, about forty miles from Comargo, and desired him to garrison the place, but the general declined so doing. They represented that in the vicinity there were fine mines of coal, and as it was an article much wanted at that time. Cols. Kinney and Peyton went up to examine its quality, and found it very excellent, but there were no means for working the mines or for transportation. On our return, we found that the old tent, our former quarters, had been taken from us. It was no great loss, however, as it was a miserable concern, and our mess took up quarters under the roof of a ruined hut, situated on one side of a lane, opposite to which there resided a Mexican family. In the rear of our hut were the ruins of a once beautiful garden. It still contained a fine grove of orange trees, under the green foliage of which we spread our blankets, to shelter us from the heavy dews of the night. Although the Texas Rangers performed harder service, and, from the nature of their duty as scouts, were subjected to greater hardships and privations than any other corps of the army, yet they were always ready and wilhng, and never murmured at their fare. Our horses were frequently put upon half rations of MEXICAN FUNERAL. 105 corn, and the men were obliged to buy grass from the Mexicans, at ten cents a bundle, which came out of our own pockets, as we were not permitted to graze our horses in their enclosures, and the grass on the road-side was nearly consumed. One morning, just as we had finished our breakfast, our atten- tion was attracted by the loud shrieks of our neighbours, and on looking around, we perceived several women running out from the jacal opposite, wringing their hands, puUing their hair, and screaming and wailing with the most heart-rending bursts of grief. We soon learned that their mother, a very old woman, had just died, which was the cause of their lament. This shrieking and howling was kept up all day, until the afternoon, when the fune- ral took place. There was no coffin ; the corpse was merely wrapped in a shroud, and placed on a bier, with a cloth thrown over it. The priest, dressed in his robes, Vfrith his shorn head exposed to the sun, attended by a little boy on each side, followed the bier. Then came two Mexicans, wrapped in large Spanish cloaks, with black, broad-brimmed sombreros, who acted as mourn- ers, followed by the friends of the deceased. The procession moved to the church, where the priest said mass over the corpse, w^hen they proceeded to the place of burial. At night, another wail of lament burst forth, which exceeded the first, — and this was kept up, night and morning, for some two or three days. They sometimes would break out in the middle of the night, and awaken the whole camp around, with their piercing screams. It cer- tainly exceeded all the outward "shows of grief" that we ever saw. On the 21st, Gen. Twiggs arrived with the 2d Dragoons, and Capts. Ridgely and Taylor's batteries of light artillery ; also, Major Gen. Butler, and Brig. Gens. Gluitman and Hamer, and other officers of the volunteers. Our time for which we had been mustered into the service, three months, had now expired, and the men were paid ofT accordingly. Many of the company, be- lieving that there was to be no more fighting, were anxious to return to their homes and famifies, who, living on the frontier of Texas, were left in a manner unprotected ; besides others who had become dissatisfied, left the company and refused to re-enfist. On the 25th, the Second Brigade of the Second Division, the 5th and 7th Infantry, crossed the San Juan, on their way to Serralvo. On the 26th, Col. Jack Hays, with an escort of twenty men, arrived from China, where he had left his regiment encamped. The regi- ment had been out on a long scout, ever since it left Matamoras, and passed through San Fernando, on its way to China. For a description of the town of San Fernando, and the follow- ing incidents, we are indebted to Mr. Lumsden, of the " Pica- yune," whose letter we copy entire ; 106 COLONEL HAYS AT SAN FERNANDO. San Fernando, Mexico, Aug. 15, 1846. " Dear Friends, — As you perceive, I am in San Fernando, a pretty little town of some three thousand inhabitants, situated in a hilly, if not mountainous, district, upon the banks of a deep and swift running river, bearing the name by which the town is called. It is distant from Matamoras ninety miles, in a south- westerly direction. *' Col. Hays's regiment reached this place at an early hour on the morning of the 13th, and found every thing quiet. A small number of Mexican troops who were quartered here, left the day before we arrived, knowing the approach of the regiment. When Col. Hays was within two leagues of San Fernando he was met by three messengers, bearing a communication from the authori- ties of the place, informing him that there would be no opposition to his entrance into the town, and begging that the property of the citizens might not be molested, &c. The colonel passed quietly through the western skirts of the town, and made his encampment about one-fourth of a mile off. After arranging the camp, he went into the town and had an interview with the alcalde, dehver- ing a proclamation from Gen. Taylor, and telhng the official that his intention was not to allow the citizens or their property to be disturbed in any manner ; that he came not to make war against the citizen, but only against the soldier. The ' talk' of the colonel, through an interpreter, seemed to give infinite satisfaction to a crowd of persons who looked on and listened, apparently as much interested as if it were a case of life and death to them, and no doubt their fears had pictured it as being one. All business was suspended when the regiment arrived, the doors were nearly all closed, and one could only get an occasional glimpse at the in- habitants through the bars of their windows. " On the night previous to our entrance into San Fernando, the regiment encamped one league from the town, and the picket- guard was thrown as far forward as the borders of the place. Just before day, a man, armed and on horseback, rode into the line of the guard, moving cautiously towards the camp of Col. Hays. He was hailed repeatedly, but made no answer. An attempt was made by two of the guard to arrest him, but he put spurs to his horse and dashed away. The guard fired one shot at the horse and another at the rider ; the horse fell dead, being shot through the neck, and it is beheved the rider fared no better. A sword, and saddle and bridle, were the trophies of the exploit. There seems to be no doubt that the man was one of the troops who left San Fernando the day before our arrival. When the two shots were fired, the guard heard the sound of horses' feet, and it is probable that a detachment had been sent back from the QUARTERS AT DON RAMON's. 107 Mexicans to take a peep at the Rangers, and to report proceed- ings. But they didn't catch Hays's men napping, nor will they be apt to, let them try it when they may. " The regiment will take up the line of march again to-morrow, and move for a town called China, about one hundred and fifty miles from this place. The chances for a fight do not seem so favourable now as were thought. Col. Hays cannot hear of any force that he can meet, and it is the impression in the regiment that the Mexicans will not make a stand this side of Monterey. This, however, is not certain, and something may yet turn up a skirmish, and give the colonel and his ' boys' a chance. China lies between Comargo and Monterey, and at China, or the latter place, the regiment will probably join the main body of the army. This, however, will depend upon the communications between Col. Hays and Gen. Taylor. Further than this I cannot furnish you with any army news. What they are doing on the Rio Grande, or in other quarters, I know nothing of. "I have been fortunate enough to be placed in a mess with four gentlemen from your city — Messrs. Foucher and Musson, former aids to Gen. Smith, Mr. Trudeau, quartermaster of the Louisiana brigade before its disbandment, and Mr. Theodore Lewis, brother of your popular sheriff'. While here, Col. Hays has kindly permitted us to make our quarters in the town. The transition from the camp fife to our present situation is most agreeable, and seems more like a dream than reahty. We are staying with the family of Senor Don Ramon de la Gerza Flores,* occupying a splendid mansion, where we are most politely attended to by our host and his lady. ' Situated as I am,' it is indeed diffi- cult to imagine that we are in an enemy's country. Senor Don Ramon, &c., &c., is immensely rich, and lives in the finest style. And here your humble servant and his messmates are comforta- bly stored away, each of us with a separate bed, servants to attend us, and ' living in clover,' as if there were no war between the country of our host and our own government. At night we are treated to sweet music, struck from the trembhng chords of the guitar and harp by the delicate and tapering fingers of a fair senorita, while we sit quietly and puff' our dgaritos in the cool- ing breeze. Is it not enough to make one feel at home ? But this state of things is not to last long — to-morrow 'the jig's up,* and 'sic transit gloria,'' ( " The banks of the river at this place are of immense height— (probably one hundred feet — and the view afforded from their I * It is not a little singular that afterwards we picked up the visiting card jof Seiior Don Ramon in the streets of Monterey, which we kept for its novelty. I See page 221, where this is referred to. 108 COLONEL HAYS. bluffs is truly picturesque. Look in whatever direction you may, and you see the distant hills all covered with the green chaparral and various coloured shrubbery, the winding mountain road, and the dashing, rushing waters of the Rio San Fernando. Beneath you, sporting in the limpid element, you behold men and boys, and women with their chiquitos — as the babies are called — all splashing and swimming about like so many tritons, mermaids and little minnows. This last sight is one which Americans are not accustomed to at home, but here it appears to be as common a matter of fact as going to church. " By-the-by, talking of going to church, reminds me — if the noise does not — that the bells are ringing a merry peel. There is something very interesting to take place, and I'll just step in and see the ceremony. So adieu." We had heard so much of Col. Hays, that we were anxious to be introduced to the commander of our regiment. The quarters of Lieut. Forbes Britton, commissary of subsistence, was at that time the general rendezvous of all the officers. And go when you would to his quarters, from his generous and hospitable feel- ings, all were sure to meet with a kind reception. On this occa- sion, as we entered Lieut. Britton's quarters, we saw a group of gentlemen sitting around, among whom were Gen. Lamar, Gov. Henderson, Gen. Cazeno, and Gen. McCloud, all distinguished men of Texas, whose names are enrolled on the page of its his- tory. As we cast our eye around the group, we tried to single out the celebrated partisan chief, and we were much surprised when we were presented to a dehcate looking young man, of about five feet eight inches in stature, and told that he was our colonel. He was dressed very plainly, and wore a thin jacket, with the usual Texian hat, broad brimmed with a round top, and loose open collar, with a black handkerchief tied neghgently around his neck. He has dark brown hair, and a large and brilliant hazel eye, which is restless in conversation, and speaks a language of its own not to be mistaken, with very prominent and heavy arched eyebrows. His broad, deep forehead is well developed; he has a \ Roman nose, with a finely curved nostril ; a large mouth, with the corners tending downwards ; a short upper lip, while the under one projects shghtly, indicative of great firmness and determina- tion. He is naturally of a fair complexion, but from long expo- sure on the frontier, has become dark and weather-beaten. He has rather a thoughtful and care-worn expression, from the con- stant exercise of his faculties ; and his long acquaintance with dangers and difficulties, and the responsibilities of a commander, have given him an habitual frown when his features are in repose. He wears no whiskers, which gives him a still more youthful ap- Colonel Jack Hayes, from a Daguerreotype bv NoeselJe, New Orleans. — p. lOS. " EXPLOITS OF COLONEL HAYS. 109 pearance, and his manners are bland and very prepossessing, from his extreme modesty. Col. John Coffee Hays was born in Wilson county, Tennessee, and was named after the gallant Gen. Coffee who commanded a brigade at the battle of New Orleans. He is now about twenty-nine years of age. In 1837, when only nine- teen, he emigrated to San Antonio, Texas, as a surveyor, and was employed on the frontier in surveying lands. His long life on the frontier has given him a hardy and iron constitution, and there are few men more able to stand hardships and privation than Col. Hays. His extraordinary talent as a commander early developed itself, and he was chosen captain of a company on several expe- ditions against the Indians, in which he was very successful. His reputation as a warrior rose so r&pidly, that the Texian Congress made him captain of a spy company ; and in 1840, or thereabout, he was made commander of the frontier, with the rank of major. Were an account of the Indian fights, skirmishes, and adven- tures of Col. Hays to be given to the world, it would fill a volume, and the work would be looked upon rather as the effusion of a fer- tile imagination, consisting of legendary tales, and the adventures of some fictitious knight-errant, than to be the faithful account of the achievements of a man, hving and moving among us, and that, too, comparatively unknown. But that "truth is stranger than fiction," is exemplified daily ; and we are almost incHned to be- lieve, that there are but few things which exist in the imagination of man, that could not, with the proper spirit, perseverance, and determination, be reduced to living reahty. In order to give to our readers some idea of the character and bold daring of this border chief, and the estimation in which he was held by both friend and foe, we must beg leave here to relate a few of his ex- ploits. It was some time in the month of July, 1844, that he was en- gaged in one of the most remarkable Indian fights perhaps on record. Remarkable, not for the numbers engaged, nor the dura- tion of the conflict, but from the fearful odds against the Rangers. At the time we speak of. Hays was surrounded by as gallant a little band- of noble and brave men, numbering only fourteen, as ever fought for the hberty of any land. Among this Spartan band were the names of a Gillespie, a Walker, and a Chevaher, whose noble deeds have since made them known to the world. On this occasion. Hays had gone out with his men some eighty miles from San Antonio, towards the river Pierdenales, for the purpose of ascertaining the position of the Indians, and to watch their move- ments. On arriving near the river, they discovered some ten or fifteen Comanche warriors, well mounted, who immediately made demonstrations of fight. As the Rangers advanced upon them, 10 110 EXPLOITS OF COLONEL HAYS. however, they would retreat, and thus endeavoured to lead tho Texians towards a ridge of thick undergrowth. But Hays was too well acquainted with the Indian character to be caught by their snares ; and he immediately judged by their mancEuvering, that an ambuscade had been laid for him, and with difficuky restrained the impetuosity of his " boys" from advancing to the attack. He then marched around the copse, where he supposed the Indians to be concealed, and drew up on another ridge, separated from their position by a deep ravine. He had occupied this situation but a short time, when the Indians discovered who he was, and knowing their man, gave up the hope of catching him by strata- gem. The Indians then showed themselves to the number of seventy-five, and challenged him to the contest. Hays accepted the challenge, and signified to them that he would meet them, and immediately started down the hill with his men, towards the In- dians, moving at the same time in the slowest possible pace, until reaching the bottom of the ravine, where he was hid from the view of the Indians, by the brow of the hill upon which they were formed. Then turning at full speed down the ravine, followed by his little troop, he turned the point of the ridge, came up in the rear of the enemy, and charged their column, when every eye of the Indian phalanx was looking in momentary expectation of seeing him rise the hill in their front ! His first fire upon them, with short rifles, which being deadly, threw them into utter con- fusion. The yells, imprecations, and war-whoops that filled the air after the report of the rifles, would have blanched many a cheek as it echoed wildly over the plain. But there stood Hays and his gallant men as firm and undaunted as the rock. The In- dians seeing their great superiority in numbers, soon rallied, when the Ranger ordered his men to threw down their rifles, and pre- pare with their five-shooters to receive the charge of the enemy. In order to resist attack on all sides, as the Indians were surround- ing them, Hays formed his men in a circle, fronting outwards, being still mounted on their horses, and for fifteen or twenty minutes maintained that position, never firing a shot until the In- dians came within the length of their lances of them. Their aim was sure, and every fire brought down a warrior. Some twenty- one of the red men were killed on that spot, before they desisted, and then the Rangers, changing their ground, charged them in turn. The fight lasted for nearly an hour, the two parties alter- nately charging each other. By this time the Texians had ex- hausted the loads in their five-shooting pistols, and the chief was again rallying his warriors for one more desperate struggle. Hays's numbers were now reduced, and the crisis was an awful one. He saw that their only salvation was to kill the Indian chief, EXPLOITS OF COLONEL HAYS. Ill and demanded of his men, if any one had a charge left. The lamented Capt. Gillespie replied that he had reserved his rifle. "Dismount, then," said Hays, "and make sure work of that chief." Although speared through the body, the gallant Gillespie dis- mounted, and at the crack of his rifle, the chief fell headlong from his horse. Panic struck, the Indians fled in dismay, pursued by the Texians, who gained a complete victory. On the battle-field of Pierdenales lay some thirty odd of their dead ; how many were wounded, was not known. On the part of the Rangers, two were killed, and some four or five wounded, among whom were Gilles- pie and Walker, since celebrated in American history, who were both speared through the body. At another time. Hays went out with a party of some fifteen or twenty men, upon the frontier of Texas, then many miles west of the white settlements, for the purpose of surveying and locating lands in the vicinity of a place well known as the "Enchanted Rock." We are unable to give to the reader the traditionary cause why this place was so named, but nevertheless, the Indians had a great awe, amounting almost to reverence for it, and would tell many legendary tales connected with it and the fate of a few brave warriors, the last of a tribe now extinct, who defended them- selves there for many years as in a strong castle, against the attacks of their hostile brethren. But they were finally overcome and totally annihilated, and ever since, the "Enchanted Rock" has been looked upon as the exclusive property of these phantom war- riors. This is one of the many tales which the Indians tell con- cerning it. The rock forms the apex of a high, round hill, very rugged and difficult of ascent. In the centre there is a hollow, in the shape of a bowl, and sufficiently large to allow a small party of men to lie in it, thus forming a small fort, the projecting and elevated sides serving as a protection. Not far from the base of this hill. Hays and his men, at the time of the expedition spoken of, which occurred in the year 1841, or '42, were attacked by a large force of Indians. When the fight commenced, Hays being some distance from his party, was cut off* from them, and being closely pressed by the Indians, made good his retreat to the top of the hill. Reaching the " Enchanted Rock," he there intrenched himself, and determined to sell his life dearly, for he had scarcely a gleam of hope left to escape. The Indians who were in pursuit, upon arriving near the summit, set up a most hideous howl, and after surrounding the spot, pre- pared for the charge ; being bent upon taking this " Devil Jack," as they called him, at all hazards, for they knew who was the commander. As they would approach, Hays would rise, and 112 EXPLOITS OF COLONEL HAYS. level his rifle ; knowing his unerring aim, they would drop back. In this way he kept them at bay for nearly an hour ; the Indians howling around him all the while, like so many wolves. But finally becoming emboldened, as he had not yet fired his rifle, they approached so near that it became necessary for him to go to work in earnest. So, as they continued to advance, he dis- charged his rifle, and then seizing his five-shooter, he felled them on all sides ; thus keeping them ofl', until he could reload. In this manner he defended himself for three long hours, when the Indians becoming furiously exasperated, rushed in mass, and gained the top, on one side of the hill ; his men, who had heard the crack of his rifle, and had been fighting most desperately to reach their leader, now succeeded in breaking through the file of Indians on the other side, and arrived just in time to save him. " This," said the Texian, who told us the story, " was one of * Jack's^ most narrow escapes, and he considers it one of the tightest little places that he ever was in. The Indians who had believed for a long time that he bore a charmed fife, were then more than ever convinced of the fact." So many were the stories that went the rounds in camp of his perilous expeditions, his wild and daring adventures, and his cool and determined bravery, that when we saw the man who held such sway over his fellow-beings, we were first inclined to believe that we had been deceived. But when we saw him afterwards in the field, we then knew him to be the " intrepid Hays." So great is his reputation among the Mexicans, that he is everywhere known as " Capitan Jack.*^ Notwithstanding his rigid disci- pline, for his word is law among his men, yet off duty he is a bland and pleasant companion, and the men familiarly call him Jack, though there is that about the man, which prevents one from taking the shghtest liberty with him. On one occasion, some Indians came into San Antonio, to make a treaty. Several chiefs were standing together, and had singled out Hays from several others, and were conversing about him. At last two of them approached, and asked him why it was that he would go out alone, which was frequently the case, and run such risks without the chance of aid ? " ' Blue Wing' and I," said the chief, pointing to his compa- nion, " no fraid go to hell together — ' Capitan Jack,' great brave- no fraid go to hell by himself." By which the chief meant, that Hays was not afraid to go anywhere alone, which was certainly a great compliment. The First Division was now making active preparations for its departure. Large wagon trains were leaving daily for Serralvo, escorted by the dragoons. A thousand rumours were afloat in EXPLOITS OF COLONEL HAYS. 113 regard to the Mexican forces. First, we could hear that they were fortifying Monterey — then, that Monterey was not defended, and that they were going to make a stand of it at Saltillo — while again it was the opinion of others, that we would not meet the enemy at all. The excitement, however, was general with the Mexicans, as well as ourselves. Large parties of the latter were out pressing the rancheros and peons into service, and every thing indicated that a grand movement was nrnking by both par- ties. The Volunteers, composing the Third Division, under Maj. Gen. Butler, consisting of the Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Mississippi regiments, were daily arriving. On the 30th, our company was again re-organized, and on the 31st, we were mus- tered into the service for three months more. Orders had been issued during the week for our departure, and we had been occu- pied getting our horses shod, our saddles fixed, and, in short, mak- ing every final arrangement for the most active service. This time there was to be no return, until some decisive blow was struck. On the first of September, our company was ready, as well as that of Capt. Gillespie's, and at 9, a. m., we crossed the Rio San Juan, and proceeded on together, until we arrived at Lake Guar- dado, where we encamped. Here we found Capt. May's dra- goons, detachments of which had been escorting the trains from Comargo to Serralvo and back. After dinner, we were again in the saddle, and proceeded on to our old camp ground, twelve miles from Mier, where we encamped for the night. At daybreak on the 2d, we continued our way, arrived at Mier at 8, a. m., and en- camped under the shade-trees. We found the place looking very lonely and deserted — most of the Mexican men had left. No troops occupied the place, Capt. Vinton's company having left for Serralvo. The principal stores, too, were closed, and there was to be seen scarcely any signs of life or activity. Here we stayed till 4, p. M., when we saddled up, and took the road to Punta I Aguda. We continued on till 8, p. m., when we encamped by the I side of a creek, fifteen miles from Mier. The day had been ex- 1 cessively warm, and our road lay over a succession of high barren ! ridges, which made the travelling very tiresome. After the guard j was posted, camp-fires were hghted, and the different messes went jto work preparing supper, and grooming and feeding their horses. Having finished their meal, the men betook themselves to rest, and gradually the hum of the camp was lost in quiet slumber. Two of our mess, however, not feeling inchned to sleep, lay awake, 'talking low to each other, while a third was sitting up mending ihis chaparral-torn unmentionables. It was a most charming moon- JHght night, and the scene that presented itself was wild and novel in the extreme. The bank of the creek, by which we had en- 10* 114 THE LIPAN CHIEF. camped, lay some distance off from the road ; it was a beautiful level green, surrounded on all sides, except that of the creek, which presented a fine view, by thick chaparral Avhich concealed us entirely from persons passing on the road. The men lay in groups around on their blankets, wrapped in sleep, with their horses tied near them, and save the low undertone of the wakeful few, and the firm tread of the sentinels, all was as cahn and still as the silvery hghl, which shed its soft rays upon the scene. We had felt restless ourself, and were reclining on our elbow, contem- plating the beauty of the landscape, when our attention was at- tracted by our two messmates, who were engaged discussing the relative merits of the individuals of different nations, in regard to their capacity to excel in the service in which we were then en- listed — that was, as scouts or spies. " The Americans make very good spies," said Jack McM ; "but the Mexicans excel them, and I think the Indians are supe- rior to either. The keen perception, the circumspection, untiring patience and self-denial, and indomitable perseverance so abso- lutely essential to success, the Indians possess to such an extra- ordinary degree, that they seem fitted by nature to the task. Now, to illustrate my meaning," continued Jack, " let me tell you an incident that fell under my own observation, which will prove to you that as a spy^ the Indian is without a rival." " Some years ago, I was a private in Jack Hays's company of Rangers. Our command was stationed at San Antonio, and as the Mexican robbing parties had been exceedingly troublesome along the frontier, our captain determined, as a means of retaliation for the injury they had committed, to strike a blow at some of the towns on the Rio Grande. Loredo was the point decided upon as the most suitable for our attack. All our preparations were quick- ly made, and we procured for our guide a man intimately ac- quainted with the whole country lying between the river San Antonio and the Rio Grande. Just as we were about starting, the Lipan chief, ' Flacco,' volunteered to accompany us, and he was most wilHngly received into our party. Several times during our journey, we found our guide sorely puzzled in regard to our route, and on one cloudy day, when it was impossible to take a course by the sun, we were completely lost as to the direction to be pur- sued. On these occasions, ' Flacco' was called upon to give his opinion as to the route we ought to travel, and without the shghtest hesitation, he would point out the proper course, and we never in \ny instance found him at fault. " As we expected to see hard service on the Rio Grande, Capt. Uays wished to save our horses as much as possible on the way out, ind therefore made each day's ride as easy as the nature of THE LIPAN CHIEF. 115 the case would permit. * Flacco' could not understand the reason of our slow progress ; and one day, when we had stopped earlier than usual, in a pleasant grove, to graze our horses and prepare our dinners, I noticed him leaning against a tree, with his arms folded across his breast, looking around him with a smile of con- tempt. I asked him if he would eat something with our mess. " 'No,' said he, drawing himself up proudly. ' No — warriors never eat much on war-path. Too much eat — too much eat,' said he, shaking his head thoughtfully. ' Capitan Hays great chief, but American eat too much on war-path.' " On one occasion, as we were about to cross a river, our keen- sighted captain discovered horse-tracks upon the opposite bank, and calling ' Flacco' to him, desired him to swim the river, and find out if the tracks were those of wild horses, or made by steeds with riders on their backs. " The chief plunged into the stream with his horse, and soon reached the opposite bank, and then observing the trail attentively for a few moments, he struck off into the chaparral in a slow trot. In about half an hour he returned and reported that he had seen no one, but that the horses, whose track he had followed, had been ridden ; that one of them was a bay horse, and the other a gray, and that their riders were Indians. " Capt. Hays seemed to place great reliance upon the statement ; but I turned round with an incredulous air, and asked a companion how the d — 1 the chief could learn all these facts if he had seen nothing but the trail. " ' Oh, it is easy enough,' said he, ' for them Ingins to tell any thing, when once they set their eagle eyes upon "yVesA signsJ'^ ' " ' But how was it done V I inquired, for I was then green in the woods. " ' How ? why, ri] tell you, youngster. You see when " Flacco" first went over, he looked at the tracks on the bank. Now, a loose horse, after he is done drinking, always stops on the top of the bank to look around and nip a few mouthfuls of grass. Well, as soon as the Ingin found that the horses had gone straight on, he knew that they must have had riders on them. Then he followed the trail until he came to some place where they stopped ; there he found the place where the horses had rolled after they were unsaddled, or rubbed themselves against a tree. In this way he found out their colour by the hair they had rubbed off; and then, if he did not find out by the camp itself, he knew by the tufts of buffalo hair sticking to the bushes, that the riders must be Ingins, for no one else rides in the chaparral wrapped in buffalo robes, except Ingins. Ain't it all clar now V "Ever since that," said Jack, "I have been perfectly satisfied 116 ARRIVAL AT SERRALVO. that the Indians were the best spies in the world ; and, of all the prairie tribes, I consider the Comanches the most superior race." Jack having here ended his story, and he of our mess having finished repairing his nether garment " by the light of the moon," we all dropped off to sleep. At day-light, on the morning of the 3d, we were in the saddle, and continued our way towards Punta Aguda, where we arrived at 10, A. M. — distance thirty-five miles from Mier, and fifteen miles from Serralvo. Here we found the 5th and 7th Infantry encamped. We had had a very fatiguing ride, and our horses had suffered very much with the heat. We encamped on the banks of a beautiful Httle stream, on the other side of which was a fine field of grass, which was a grateful refreshment to our horses. The Mexicans came into our camp, bringing us melons, dried figs, and other fruit, which served for dessert after our dinner. Here we saw several of our old acquaintances, whom we met at the fan- dango, when we were last at this place. Although they appeared friendly, yet they did not seem to relish our return very much. Our horse had become very lame, and it was feared we could not proceed with the company. At 5, p. m., however, we were ordered to " saddle up," and not Hking the idea of being left be- hind, we concluded to go on, thinking our horse would get over it. We rode on, then, with the rear-guard ; but after travelling a mile or two, it was found impossible to keep up ; so, one of our messmates joining us, we were left behind. We know of no situation so unpleasant, so trying or vexatious, as to be travelling in an enemy's country, and have your horse become suddenly lame. A man with a lame horse is no better than a wounded man, for he is of no account. We travelled on alone, then, at a slow pace ; night had already set in, and it appeared as if we would never reach our destination. Our companion was sure we were lost; but, having travelled the road before, we kept on, feeling confi- dent that we were right, there being no ranchos on the road to inquire at. At last Ave crossed a well-known stream, and ascend- ed the hill on which stood Serralvo, where we arrived at about 10 o'clock, p. M. Here we found our company encamped on the other side of the town ; and, being much fatigued, we staked out our horses, and lay down on the rocky ground, which was covered with little grass burs, and soon fell asleep. On the morning of the 4th, we were awakened by drums and fifes beating the reveille. Gen. Worth's Division was all here, except the 5th and 7th Infantry, which was expected daily from Punta Aguda, as soon as they should be relieved by other troops on their way up. Our company marched down to a most lovely spot, and encamped on the banks of the beautiful Rio Alamo. SCOUT TO CARRISITO. 117 Orders soon after came from head-quarters for a detachment of twenty of our men, to proceed as far as Carrisito, about seven miles distant, to make a reconnoissance. Three armed Mexicans were captured the night before, and it was supposed a considera- ble force were somewhere in the vicinity. At 10, a. m., the detachment returned, having obtained important information con- cerning the enemy. Orders were immediately issued for the two companies — McCulloch's and Gillespie's — to get ready for a scout. Our horse being too lame to travel, we procured another from a friend, and at about 4, p. m., both companies, composed, in all, of eighty well-mounted men, were in the saddle. The pack- mules, and every description of baggage, were left behind, the men merely carrying in their wallets two days' provision. Lieut. Meade, of the Topographical Engineers, accompanied us to exa- mine the road. We also took with us a Mexican, for a guide, whom we mounted on one of our horses. In order to throw the Mexican spies off the scent, we struck off to the right of the Ser- ralvo mountains, towards Salinas, about two miles ; then crossed through the chaparral, and took the road to the left, leading to Marin. Just before sundown, a Mexican was seen ahead, who, on discovering us, took after some cattle, and pretended to be driving them ; but the ruse would not do. He then attempted to run, but finding so many fast horses and sharp rifles after him, he made a halt, and came up, pretending that he was a vacara, or cow-driver. After threatening the fellow with death, we ascer- tained that Canales, with about five hundred rancheros, and Col. Carrasco, with between two and three hundred regular cavalry, were at Papagayo, about thirty-five miles distant. This agreed with the information obtained early in the morning. Soon after this we passed Rancho Carrisito, and wound our way around the Serralvo mountains about six miles further, when we encamped near a bold creek. Here we prepared supper, and fed our horses. Our guide was then sent back afoot, with a note to Gen. Worth, informing him of the situation and force of the enemy. After resting an hour, we took up our march over the mountains through a wild and lonely district of country, with occasional deep ravines and ledges of rock. Ridge after ridge was crossed, and the mountains loomed up in the darkness on every side, (for there was no moon,) presenting a scene of grandeur which was height- ened by the intense interest of the expedition. At midnight, after a hard ride over one of the most rocky and hilly roads that we had yet encountered, w^e arrived within two miles of the enemy's camp, and stopped at a rancho called Papagayo, (the Spanish name of a flower like a tulip,) which, being surrounded by mountains, forms a cup, from which we suppose it takes its name. The Mexi- 118 SCOUT TO PAPAGAYO. cans at the rancho were aroused from their slumbers, and sur- prised to find so large a body of men at their doors. After a great deal of cross-examination we obtained some farther infor- mation from an old man here, and the advance guard was sent on ahead to try to ascertain the position of the enemy. We learned that two Mexican couriers had passed at full speed during the night, carrying the information of our advance. A fight was certainly expected, and throughout our whole Hne all was as still as night. Here we remained about an hour, when the advance guard came in and reported that they had met the picket- guard of the enemy, and, after a hard chase, had run them nearly to their own camp, where they made good their safety. The tro- phies of the night consisted of a lance, which one of the Mexican cavalry dropped in the race. After a consultation, it was thought most prudent to make a retrograde movement, as the position as well as the force of the enemy was found to be very strong. We fell back, then, about three miles, where we found a strong natural position. It was determined to remain here until daylight and await the attack of the enemy, which was now confidently ex- pected. A strong picket-guard was posted, and the men ordered to be in readiness at a moment's warning. Our horses stood sad- dled, and the men lay down on the hard rocky ground, holding their horses by their bridles, or cabestros. Of all the mental agony of which the soul is capable of feehng, there is, perhaps, none so intense, painful, or exciting, as the feel- ing of suspense ; for, unhke any other, it has no vent, no relief, but by the actual transpiring of events, to be decided only by the fate of time. We do not mean, however, that the anguish is as great on all occasions, for it is the cause which governs in all cases the extent of our feelings. Here we lay, then, for three hours, anxiously awaiting the attack of the enemy. The men were much fatigued from the hard ride, and could not help dozing, until gradually becoming tired of watching, many fell asleep. As the day broke on the morning of the 5th, the picket-guard came in and reported that the enemy had made no demonstration of attack. The men were then aroused, and ordered to mount. Springing to our feet, with our guns in our hands, we were in the saddle again on the homeward track. At 8, a. m., we encamped at the creek, where we had stopped the night before, and prepared break- fast. On the road we made two more prisoners. About noon, when near the rancho Carrisito, we discovered a large force ahead, which we took to be Mexicans, but which proved to be a detach- ment of the artillery battalion, numbering about 300 men, under Col. Childs, which had been despatched by Gen. Worth to our rehef; who, on receiving from the guide the information of the superiority 119 of the enemy's forces, and fearing we might be cut off, sent this force to cover our retreat. There was no occasion, however, for their assistance. Had they but proceeded with us at first, we might have routed the enemy and made some important cap- tures. We all returned together, and the soldiers were evi- dently disappointed, as they expected to have had a frolic with us. The prisoner that was taken on the first night of our march proved to be one of Canales' spies, who had been sent to ascer- tain our force at Serralvo ; he was a cunning, shrewd fellow, by the name of Heronimo, and acted many parts during the cam- paign, which we shall have occasion to notice hereafter. On our return to camp, we found many old friends who had arrived since we left. It was a fine moonlight night, and, after taking a walk in the plaza, where the band was playing some sweet melting airs, we retired to our quarters. CHAPTER XIII. Camp at Serralvo — Gen. Ampudia's Proclamation — Its Effect — The Mexican Feeling — The Alcalde's Fandango — Scenes and Incidents at Punta Aguda — The Third Brigade on the qui vive — Arrival of Gen. Taylor and First and Third Divisions — Orders for the March of the Army — Departure of the Ad- vance — Arrival at Papagayo — Discovery of the Enemy — The expected At- tack — Scout to Ramos — Skirmish with the Mexican Cavalry — The Chase and Retreat — Our Return to Camp — Arrival of Gen. Taylor and the First Division — Camp Scene — Movements of the Second Division, &c. On Sunday, the 6th, Gen. Smith's brigade, composed of the 5th and 7th Infantry, of the Second Division, to which was attached Capt. Blanchard's company of Louisiana volunteers, came up from Punta Aguda, having been reheved by the Third Brigade of the First Division. Rumors were now rife throughout the country concerning the two armies. Gen. Ampudia had arrived at Mon- terey, and issued a proclamation threatening all with death who should in any way assist the American army. We here give a copy of the pronunciamento : Considering that the hour has arrived, when energetic measures and precautionary dispositions should be taken, to hberate the de- partments of the east from the rapacity of the Anglo-Americans, and for attending to the rights of the people and the usages of war, every person who may prove a traitor to his country, or a spy of 'the enemy, shall suffer death without any remission of sentence ; I and, taking into consideration that it is my bounden duty, to put an (end to the evils which have been caused by the contraband trade 120 ampudia's proclamation. that has been indiscriminately carried on by the usurpers of our sacred territory, and using the facukies which the laws have em- powered me with, I decree as follows : 1. Every native, or foreigner, who shall, either directly or indi- rectly, voluntarily aid or assist the enemy in any manner whatso- ever, shall suffer death by being shot. 2. All those who, after the pubhcation of this proclamation, shall continue to traffic in contraband articles with the enemy, shall suf- fer the same penalty named in the preceding article. 3. The authorities of every branch of the public service will take especial care, under the strictest responsibility, that this arti- cle shall be rigorously complied with. 4. This proclamation should produce popular action among our citizens, who are under the obligation to make known any infrac- tion of it, and all citizens are empowered to apprehend criminals and deliver them over to the judicial authorities ; and that all persons maybe duly notified, and that none may plead ignorance, I order the publication of this proclamation, and that due circula- tion shall be given it. Done at the head-quarters of the army, in Monterey, August 31, 1846. Pedro de Ampudia. This had its effect upon the Mexicans, and an evident change was to be seen. Indeed, they had been growing more surly and hostile ever since our advance from Comargo, and all their smiles and apparent friendship had been only bought with gold. Many of the families had left the place. Notwithstanding that, there is a neat church here, yet no service was held to-day. A requisi- tion had been made upon the alcalde for all the corn in the vicinity ; and, at the risk of his head, for the sake of gain, he agreed to supply the quartermaster's department at the rate of $1 25 per bushel. Wood was supplied also at $2 50 per cord, and a miserable jacal was rented for a blacksmith shop at $1 50 per day. For the most ordinary things of no value, but still re- quisite, they extorted the most outrageous prices. As far as we marched through the country, we bettered the condition of the people in every way, from the lowest to the highest class, not only by filling their pockets, but by introducing civilized arts and customs among them, and luxuries which they never knew of before. Whether it was from extreme poverty or ignorance, we cannot say ; but certain it is, that the most of them never knew the use of a looking-glass, or a brush and comb, until we came among them. There were several Mexican stores open, besides our sutler's, and also a billiard-room, which contributed greatly to the amuse- 121 ment of the officers. The town was very lively, and the men were better pleased with their quarters than any place we had yet visited. The mornings and evenings were delightful, and the men bathed daily in the refreshing waters of the Rio Alamo. On the 8th, the alcalde gave a complimentary fandango to the officers, or rather a jubilee to celebrate his good luck in having made a fortune out of his enemies. The ball was given in the large room of the alcalde's house, and some thirty young girls were assembled, dressed very neatly. Some had on white dresses, with short sleeves, and were decorated with jewelry. In fact, it was the most distingue affair that we had yet seen. Gen. Worth, as well as the officers generally, attended. The alcalde's niece was the belle of the evening, and she was really quite a pretty girl, with a fine form, regular features, and large lustrous black eyes. The mammas accompanied their ninas, as they called their daughters, and seemed delighted with the attention paid them by the officers. Cake and wine were handed around during the evening ; and to have seen the coquetry and flirtations of the Mexican senoritas and the gay cavaliers, would have pro- duced many a hearty laugh from our city belles. The frolic was kept up till late, and, long after the ladies were seen home, the song and laugh of revelry continued in the banquet hall. To many a brave and noble soul, who participated in the wild glee and merriment of that occasion, was it destined to be the last night of innocent mirth. In order to give to the reader all the incidents of the campaign, as far as it lies in our power, and the movements and occurrences of the main body of the army, for we were always in the extreme advance, we shall occasionally give the letters of Mr. Haile, or make extracts from them, relating to the army where we were not in person. It will be seen by the following graphic letter, that in anticipation of an action between our advance force, and that of the enemy, under Carrasco, that prudent and energetic officer, Gen. Worth, immediately on receiving the information from McCulloch, of the force of the enemy, not only sent a detach- ment of the artillery battalion to our relief, but also despatched a courier to Col. Garland, at Punta Aguda, with orders for him to march immediately to Serralvo, in case he should hear firing in that direction, for the purpose of concentrating his forces, should a general engagement ensue. "Punta Aguda, Mexico, Sept. 7, 1846. "We arrived here, with Col. Wilson's command, yesterday, at ten o'clock, a. m. We marched about fifteen miles, through a country more interesting than any we had before passed. Indeed, every day's approach to the mountains brings us into a finer 11 122 DESCRIPTION OF A FANDANGO. country ; the land becoming less arid, and vegetation more abund- ant and fresh. The country abounds with clear running streams that spring from the mountains. From Comargo to this place, the road passes over innumerable beds of lime-rock, and a mise- rable soil, covered with scattering shrubbery, and a hundred varie- ties of the cactus plant. Here the scene is suddenly changed from a barren waste to a garden. The camp is situated a few yards from a httle ravine, down which the Agua del Alamo rushes, over lime rocks, with great velocity. The Mexicans have here erected a neat dam of lime rock and cement, at which the creek is divided off into several canals, wbich irrigate the farms around. Below this dam, over which the water falls almost perpendicu- larly, in an unbroken sheet, is a basin of foaming water, affording one of the most delicious bathing-places in the world. I need not say that this basin is always occupied by the soldiers. About half a mile from camp is a large rancho, or Mexican village, where the farmers of this dehghtful region are huddled together for se- curity. The buildings are made of stone, with straw roofs. " I went last night, in company with several officers, to attend a fandango at this rancho. The dance was held in front of one of the largest houses, in the open air, the moon affording abund- ance of hght. Benches were set around, forming a circle. Tables were placed around the ring, upon which a number of cake mer- chants offered small loaves of brown sugar, cigarritos, and other httle dainties, for sale. Every thing was conducted with the ut- most decorum, and with much taste. The seiioritas, many of whom were, by moonhght, very pretty, were dressed, with a few exceptions, in calico, made up after the American style, or rather in bad imitation of it. They were ranged around upon the benches, where they sat very quietly, behaving very hke our country-girls in Louisiana, on similar occasions. In truth, the party resembled a country ball at home, the girls manifesting the same modest timidity, so captivating in our sweet Creole girls, and the young men, who were neatly clad in white Hnen pants, snow- white shirts, and red silk sashes, conducting themselves with per- fect pohteness and regularity. A little hump-backed Mexican — a dwarf withal — was seated in a chair, with a viohn as large as himself, his keen black eyes twinkling in the moonbeams, sawing out waltzes and break-downs with wonderful ease. Just as the waltzing commenced, an orderly rode up from Col. Garland — Col. G. commands this camp — with an order for Col. Watson, who was a spectator, to appear at his head-quarters forthwith. A moment after, we learned that an express had arrived from Gen. Worth, bringing orders for the troops here to be ready for an at- tack ; and in case firing was heard in the direction of Serralvo, THE ARMY AT SERRALVO. 123 to set out immediately for that place. A subdued buzz pervaded the camp, after orders in conformity with the above had been pro- mulgated ; new instructions were given to the sentinels, cartridge- boxes were carefully examined, muskets inspected, and the men lay beside their arms. As no talking was allowed, and every man felt inclined to listen, the whole camp was soon wrapped in silence, excepting here and there where a tired soldier could be heard blowing off his fatigues and cares through his nasal organ. It was said that Canales was in the vicinity, with a considerable body of men. Everybody awoke this morning, however, with a Avhole skin. Gen. Worth seems to feel confident that the Mexi- cans are determined to fight. So Httle faith have I in the tale that there are Mexicans between here and Serralvo, that I shall start for that place this evening, in company with two other per- sons only. Should we come off missing, you may therefore know that there are Mexicans about. I go on to-night, because it is uncertain whether Gen. Taylor will reach this place for two or three days, and I am anxious to reach Serralvo before him, so as to be prepared to travel on towards Monterey, as soon as he arrives ; for I know that he will not stop at Serralvo longer than twenty- four hours. He is determined to take six thousand troops that he has selected for the purpose, and push ahead without resting. The army for Monterey is, ere now, on this side of the San Juan, and on their march." The morning of the 9th was dehghtfully cool and pleasant, and nothing occurred to break the peaceful quiet of the little town which lay at the foot of the Serralvo mountains, whose summits received the golden lustre of the rising sun, as it mounted its course in the heavens. The green herbage of the fields — the groups of forest trees scattered here and there, with silvery fairy streams, vieing one with another in their rapid course over a ledge of rock, each fretting and foaming at the obstructions of its way ; then sweetly murmuring over some pebbled bed, and again emp- tying itself into some deeper basin, where it settled into a stilly quiet, without a ripple to mar its mirrored surface — all presented a most lovely scene for the eye to dwell upon, and filled one with emotion, while drinking in the beauties of the landscape. In the afternoon. Gen. Taylor arrived with the 2d Dragoons and the First Division, under Gen. Twiggs, to which was attached Capt. Shiver's company of Texas volunteers, and the Washington and Baltimore battalion ; also, two twenty-four pound howitzers and one mortar. On the morning of the 10th, Gen. Butler came up with the First Brigade, under Gen. Hamer, composed of the 1st Ohio and 1st Kentucky regiments ; and at night, Gen. Gluitman arrived with 124 GENERAL ORDERS. the Second Brigade, composed of the 1st Mississippi and 1st Ten- nessee regiments of volunteers. The whole force now assembled at Serralvo amounted to about 6000 troops, besides Gen. Hen- derson's Texas Rangers, composed of Hays's and Wood's regi- ments, which had not yet come up. On the morning of the 11th of September, the whole camp was one scene of activity. Never did the little town wear such an aspect of mihtary display. Drums were beating in all direc- tions, throughout the day, and all was hurry and bustle. The forges of the different batteries were busy, shoeing horses, &c., and every preparation was making for our march to Monterey. In the afternoon, the men assembled for evening parade ; after drill, the music of the different regiments beat off, while the offi- cers saluted. The adjutants then read the following orders from head-quarters : Head-quarters, Army of Occupation, Serralvo, Sept. 11, 1846. [Orders, No 115.] 1. As the army may expect to meet resistance in the farther advance towards Monterey, it is necessary that the march should be conducted with all proper precaution to meet an attack and se- cure the baggage and supplies. From this point the following will be the order of march until otherwise directed : 2. All the pioneers of the army, consolidated into one party, will march early to-morrow on the route to Marin, for the purpose of repairing the roads and rendering it practicable for artillery and wagons. The pioneers of each division will be under a subaltern, to be specially detailed for the duty, and the whole will be under the command of Capt. Craig, 3d Infantry, who will report to head- quarters for instructions. This pioneer party will be covered by a squadron of dragoons, and Capt. McCulloch's company of Ran- gers. Two officers of topographical engineers, to be detailed by Capt. Williams, will accompany the party, for the purpose of ex- amining the route. Two wagons will be provided by the quarter- master's department for the transportation of the tools, provisions, and knapsacks of the pioneer party. 3. The First Division will march on the 13th instant, to be fol- lowed on successive days by the Second Division and field division of volunteers. The head-quarters will march with the First Di- vision. Capt. Gillespie, with half of his company, will report to Maj. Gen. Butler ; the other half, under the first-lieutenant, to Brig. Gen. Worth. These detachments will be employed for out- posts and videttes, and as expresses between the column and head- quarters. 4. The subsistence supplies will be divided between the three PREPARATIONS FOR THE MARCH TO MONTEREY. 125 coiTimns, the senior commissary of each division receipting for the stores, and being charged with their care and management. The senior commissaries of divisions will report to Capt. Wagga- man for this duty. 5. Each division will be followed immediately by its baggage train, and supply train, with a strong rear-guard. The ordnance train under Capt. Ramsay will march with the Second Division, between its baggage and supply train, and will come under the protection of the guard of that division. The medical suppHes will, in hke manner, march with the First Division. 6. The troops will take eight days' rations and forty rounds of ammunition. All surplus arms and accoutrements, resuking from casualties on the road, will be deposited with Lieut. Stewart, left in charge of the depot at this place, who will give certificates of deposit to the company commanders. 7. The wagons appropriated for transportation of water will not be required, and will be turned over to the quartermaster's depart- ment for general purposes. 8. Two companies of the Mississippi regiment will be desig- nated for the garrison of this place. All sick and disabled men, unfit for the march, will be left behind, under charge of a medical officer to be selected for this duty by the medical director. By order of Maj. Gen. Taylor, W. W. S. Bliss, Ass't Aclft General Although the object and destination of our march had been well understood by all, yet this was the first plain intimation, published by the general, in which there was no mistaking the nature and character of the service before us. As the orders were read, a murmur of approbation ran through the long lines of infantry, which presented a pageantry of arms seldom witnessed. After the parade was dismissed, a buzz of gaiety and hveliness prevailed. In the camp of the Rangers, the men were occupied parching coffee, arranging their wallets and pack-saddles, and cleaning their arms. That eight days' provisions were to be carried with us, was a sufficient guarantee that we were not to make a speedy re- turn. Orders were received that day from Washington, announc- ing the promotions and brevets for the battles of the 8th and 9th ; and among the young officers there was much joy and merry-mak- ing in honour of the occasion. After our usual bath in the beautiful river, we strolled down to the plaza, where many of the officers were walking for pleasure. It was a lovely night, and the Mexican maidens were looking out from the doors and windows upon the moonhght scene, while the music of the band of the " eighth" lent additional charms to the beauty of the scene. 11* 126 THE MARCH. On the morning of the 12th of September, according to orders, the advance took up the line of march for Marin, where it was expected we would meet with a large Mexican force. The ad- vance was composed as follows : McCulloch's Rangers, Capt. Pike Graham's squadron of dragoons, and a company of pioneers, num- bering about eighty men, followed by two wagons, the whole under the command of Capt. Craig, of the 3d Infantry. Capt. Williams, accompanied by Lieuts. Meade and Wood, of the engineers, also joined us. At 12, m., we arrived at Rancho Carrisito, where we nooned it. We then proceeded on to our old camp ground near the creek, thirteen miles from Serralvo, where we encamped for the night. This is a beautiful spot, which, in our haste, on our former visits we had no opportunity to describe. It is the first large stream you come to after leaving Carrisito. Being a rocky branch winding among the hills, the south end of the stream runs through a deep ravine, on the west side of which is a perpendi- cular rock of limestone about sixty feet high. From the base of this rock, a hundred streams gush out from the crevices, forming cool crystal springs. On the east side is a high ledge of rock, projecting so as to form a half cave, where there is a deep basin of water, making a delightful bathing-place, and in which many of our men luxuriated. At sundown, a strong picket-guard was posted in the advance, about one mile and a half from camp, and we were detailed as one of the guard. We concealed ourselves by the side of the road in the chaparral, where, on our horses, we kept a look-out all night, dismounting occasionally to rest them. Nothing of interest occurred, however, all having remained quiet throughout the night. At dayhght on the 13th, our company came up to us, when we pushed on with them, without breakfast, and tired and sleep}?- as we were. It was a fine clear cool morning, and as we had to stop occasionally for the pioneers to prepare and cut out the road for the artillery, we did not reach Papagayo until about 1, p. m., when we halted for them to come up. In the mean time, Capt. McCul- loch proceeded on with a detachment of fifteen men to reconnoitre. After proceeding about four miles along a ridge, over which the road lay, the enemy was discovered at the base of an opposite hill. On perceiving our party, they retreated to the top of the hill to the number of about eighty, where they stood awaiting our movements, at the same time prancing about on their horses, and waving their swords in defiance. The challenge was answered in return, but they, fearing a concealed force, did not dare to ap- proach; while on our part, our numbers were too few to risk a skirmish, as the enemy in sight \vas supposed to be the picket- guard of a large force. Under these circumstances, the detach- SCOUT TO RAMOS. 127 ment returned, and reported to Capt. Craig. An express was immediately despatched to Gen. Taylor, for the First Division to hasten up by a forced march, as an attack was apprehended. The Rangers took possession of the houses at the rancho, the women having left, and there being but two or three Mexicans about the place. We killed all the chickens about, but not without paying twenty-five cents a piece for them, and at sundown the men pre- pared supper. The infantry, composed of the pioneers, were then posted on the other side of the road on a high eminence, where stood a little jacal, for defence, while the dragoons encamped be- low them. Great excitement prevailed in camp, and it was thought that an engagement with the enemy would certainly take place on the morrow. Accordingly, the arrival of the First Divi- sion was looked for with much anxiety. It was ascertained that one of the Mexicans at the rancho was a spy, and after selHng out all the chickens, he had slipped off to give information to the enemy. An advance and rear-guard were now posted, and the men lay by their arms all night to prevent a surprise. The day of the 14th dawned, without an incident having occur- red, the Mexicans not having had the temerity to attack us. After breakfast, we were ordered into the saddle on a scout towards Ramos, a little town about eight miles distant, west course. One mile from camp, we dismounted, and left the pack-mules in charge of some five or six men, and then proceeded on. The men were in high spirits, and felt sure that this time they would have a brush with the enemy. After advancing three miles far- ther, in rising a little hilJ,we discovered the tracks of the enemy's cavalry, where they had shown themselves the day before. Here we divided our force, and fifteen men were detailed to go in the ad- vance Avith Capt. McCulloch, while the main body was left in charge of Lieut. Kelly, who received orders to remain behind for a certain time, when they were to come up and halt at a turn in the road, and there wait for a signal. The advance continued on, and after proceeding about a mile, came in sight of the enemy, within long rifle-shot. Several fires were exchanged on both sides, when McCulloch waving his sword, as if motioning to an army in the rear, galloped after them, and drove the enemy from their position to another hill. In the mean time, the main body had come up, and were now ordered to deploy around a hill to the right, so as to keep out of sight of the enemy, and come in at another point in the road, and again wait for a signal. In order to do this, they had to cross a deep ravine, the sides of which were lined with thick chaparral and entangled vines, making the task by no means an easy one, but notwithstanding it was accomplished. The road now ran along the base of a ridge of hills on our right, 128 A SKIRMISH. with occasional ones on our left, forming passes. Our advance had proceeded this far, and drove the enemy's scouts back to their main force. While reconnoitering here, Capt. McCulloch, who was on a high hill to the right, discovered some twenty of the enemy lying in ambush in the bottom below ; at the same time, the gallant young Thomas, of Baltimore, who was in pursuit of a Mexican officer, having shot at him once, was rushing on at a break-neck pace, into the very arms of the ambuscade. A mo- ment more, and he Avas lost. Capt. McCulloch, with that pre- sence of mind which never forsakes him, seeing his danger, raised his sword as if beckoning to a large force to come up, at the same time dashing towards them himself. The Mexicans seeing the movement, thought they would not have time to make Thomas a prisoner, before being surrounded themselves, so giving him their fire, they fled ; strange to say, however, it did not take effect. And by this ruse poor young Thomas was saved, only however to participate in a more glorious action, and to meet in the most gal- lant manner a soldier's death. A horseman was then despatched to order up the main body, who, having heard the firing, were waiting with the most restless anxiety and excitement for orders from the advance. No sooner did the courier come in sight, than he beckoned them to follow him. On they dashed in fine style, with a shout that echoed over the hills, and raising a dust which might have been taken for the advent of a regiment of dragoons, while the Mexicans hastily retreated before us. Capt. McCulloch now pushed on with the advance, until wnthin a quarter of a mile of Ramos, where he again came up with the enemy, at about some hundred yards distant. Here they opened a heavy fire upon us with their escopetas, or carbines, which was returned by our boys in the most spirited manner, killing one and wounding two of the enemy; while on our part not a man was touched, a horse only being slightly wounded in the neck. The Mexicans staggered at our fire, and retreated to the town in the greatest confusion. A shout of triumph from the Rangers rose wildly on the air, and, filled with excitement, and an impetuosity that was impossible to restrain, they rushed on, pursuing the enemy into the very town of Ramos, charging through and driving them out of it to a high hill. Nor did the Mexicans stop until they reached the top of it, when they stood for a moment in evi- dent terror and dismay, expecting that they were pursued by a thousand cavalry at least. To show how hot was the chase, they had barely time to leave their wounded in the town ; and as it was, we made a prisoner, and captured a scopet which one of the enemy dropped in his flight. We could distinctly see about two hundred men, a detachment of Torrejon's cavalry, commanded ARRIVAL OF THE FIRST DIVISION. 129 by Carrasco ; and fearing the rash act might yet cost us dearly, Capt. McCuUoch slowly retired from the town with his men, to the mountain pass, in order to prevent our being cut off, as the enemy was making some demonstration of winding around the hills in that direction. We however met with no opposition, and proceeded back towards camp ; about four miles from which we discovered a large force on the top of a hill, which proved to be Capt. Graham's dragoons. Thus with our httle force of only forty men, and Avith only fifteen in the advance, we chased and routed, for six miles, two hundred of the enemy ! This was our first regular skirmish, and it was considered the opening of the fall campaign. The command here came to a halt, while a detachment of men were sent back after our pack-mules. We proceeded on with the prisoner in our charge, and on our arrival, found that Gen. Taylor had come up with the artillery, cavalry, and infantry of the First Division, having arrived soon after our departure by a forced march. We delivered the prisoner over to the General, and on interrogating the Mexican, it was ascertained from him that at Marin, nine miles from Ramos, there were about 1500 cavalry under Gen. Torrejon. The news of our scout created quite an excitement in camp, and all were in a feverish state of anxiety to learn the particulars. To one uncon- nected with the army, or who never marched against an enemy, no idea can be formed of the almost painful excitement that is cre- ated with the centre and rear ranks to learn what is going on in the advance. Thus they are continually kept in suspense and anxiety to learn the cause whenever a halt is called, a movement made, or any event occurring which they do not understand ; and on this account all reports and rumors from the advance are re- ceived with the greatest interest and eagerness. It was now about two o'clock, p. m. The officers of the First Division were sitting about in squads, taking a lunch. The General was sitting on a camp-stool under the shade of a tree, with his staff and other officers around him, who were laughing and joking over the adventures of our scout. All seemed so pleasant, and in such high spirits, that the scene bore more the resemblance of a "pic-nic" party than that of a hostile invading army. After partaking of a lunch with the officers, the detach- ment returned with the pack-mules to where we met the dragoons, and encamped for the night about one hundred yards from the road, near a beautiful stream of water, where the men prepared supper. A strong guard was posted around the camp, and a picket sent out a mile in the advance. The men were much fatigued with the morning's amusement, and although quite a heavy rain had fallen in the early part of the night, yet they slept 130 MARCH OF THE SECOND DIVISION. as soundly on the ground as if they had been enjoying the com- forts of their own happy homes. The army had moved on, in accordance with the pubHshed orders, two companies of the Mississippi regiment having been left behind to garrison the town of Serralvo. Having brought the First Division up with the advance, we must go back after the Second, and we here give to the reader Mr. Haile's account of its movements. " Second Division of the select six thousand — inarch from Ser- ralvo to Monterey. " Sept. 1 4. — The Second Division, under Gen. Worth, which was ordered to march to-day — the First Division, under Gen. Twiggs, having marched yesterday — had just placed their personal cloth- ing and accoutrements in convenient conditions for packing yesterday evening, when they were called out for inspection, orderlies, servants, and all, leaving their tents unattended. Just as Gen. Worth appeared on the field, a heavy rain, accom- panied with wind, commenced, and, prostrating many of the tents, soaked every thing in camp. At two o'clock this morning the reveille beat, and the poor fellows, with all their duds still wet, commenced their preparations for the march. The tents were at once struck and packed — wagons were brought up to receive the tent poles, camp kettles, &c., private mules and pack-horses were harnessed — camp Avomen, with children at the breast, and of all sizes, packed themselves and little ones upon Mexican mules and ponies, and, by daylight, the column w^as in motion. The rear- guard did not get off until eleven o'clock. The day has been exceedingly warm. We have marched twelve miles, over a country different in every respect from any I have ever before seen. The shrubbery and plants are entirely new to me, with the exception of the eternal cactus, which grows all over Mexico, in a hundred varieties. The wild ohve, and a white, round-leafed shrub with pink-coloured blossoms, cover the mountains and table- lands. We have crossed five or six clear, cool streams to-day, and are now encamped upon the brow of a ravine, down which runs a spring brook." " 15. — We are now about fourteen miles from Marin. We passed a few moments since a rancho which had just been de- serted in great haste — the cows, goats and chickens having been left behind. We left camp this morning at four o'clock. Our way has led along the foot of a mountain which rises on our right to a height of 2500 to 3000 feet. We likewise have a mountain on our left, of nearly the same height. These two mountains con- verge before us, and descend at the same time, to about the level of MARCH OF THE SECOND DIVISION. 131 the table-lands upon which we now are. But far in the distance before us rises the Sierra Madres, higher and more majestic than any we have before seen. Our march has been over a very bad road to-day. Up hill and down — all rocks and pebbles, ravines and mines. The whole country over which we have to-day tra- velled is covered with aged ' Spanish bayonet' trees — a species of palm, each leaf of which is pointed with a sharp thorn. Some of these trees are two and a half to three feet in diameter, and must be from one hundred and fifty to two hundred years old. As we reached this camping place, an express came in from Gen. Taylor, directing this division to join him at Marin by a forced march. We are therefore bivouacked, ready to march at a moment's warning. It seems that the Mexicans are assembled in force, between here and Monterey, and it is rumored that Santa Anna himself is in the field. There is no doubt about there being a strong force at Monterey, and Gen. Taylor therefore directs that the First and Second Divisions shall join to-morrow, and march be- fore the town. Capt. Graham, of the dragoons, had a skirmish last night, near Marin, with some Mexican videttes, and killed one or two, and took two or three more prisoners. As I have said before, it is the opinion of most of the officers that a harder fight is in store than has before taken place. Gen. Worth keeps his division always in readiness, so that he could hardly be surprised, by night or day. Last night a sort of stampede was got up in camp, and we shall have another to-night, of course. I cannot help thinking that if an alarm were to come off to-night, a most singular scene would follow. We are bivouacked in a thicket of trees, or large shrubs, all of which have thorns. To walk through them without stooping and dodging about to avoid the thorns is impossible. Horses and mules are tied by long lassos, in every direction. The whole thicket, as well as the road for half a mile, is filled with men stretched out on blankets, chatting about the probabilities of a fight — some predicting that no such happiness is in reserve for them, whilst others of more experience think differently. Gen. Taylor enters Marin to-night, and will there consolidate his httle army. We march to-morrow morning at half-past three." It will be seen by the above letter, that resistance was expected to be met with at Marin, and in consequence of which the Second Division was ordered to come up by a forced march. The reader will perceive also that it was McCuUoch's men, who had the skirmish, instead of Graham's dragoons. But this only shows how rumors and reports change by the repetition of a thousand tongues. 132 THE WOUNDED MEXICAN. CHAPTER XIV. Description of Ramos — The wounded Mexican — The Charity and Benevolence of the Texas Rangers — Arrival at Marin — Evacuation of the Town by the Mexican Troops — Description of the Country, and Marin — A Mexican Din- ner — The Great Western — Scenes and Incidents — An Express from the Spanish Consul — Camp at Marin — Capture of a Spy — Ampudia's Letter and Circular — Scout to Pescaria Chica — Incident — Zacatecas — Agua Frio — Arrival at San Francisco — The whole Army Encamped — Arrival of Gen. Henderson with the Texas Rangers — Scenes and Preparations — March of the Army towards Monterey — Arrival before the Fortifications of the City — View of the Valley of Monterey — Demonstration by the Mexican Cavalry — The opening of the Enemy's Batteries — The Reconnoissance^Camp at Walnut Springs — The Night Expedition — Prisoners— Scene at the Guard Fires. On the 15th day of September, we resumed our march at sunrise, the whole of the First Division having come up to our camp. In consequence of having to wait occasionally for the pioneers to come up, who were working the road, we travelled very slowly. At 8, A. M., we arrived at Ramos, where we purchased some corn for our horses from an old man. The town was nearly desolate — all but a few of the inhabitants having deserted it. The place con- tains about some forty houses, principally built of stone, with nothing particularly attractive about it. In one of the houses we found a wounded Mexican, who had been shot in the skirmish of yesterday. Several of our men went in to see him, and feeling very sorry for the poor fellow, gave him money as they took his hand to bid him good-bye. An old woman and a young girl attended his bedside, and on seeing the feeling exhibited by the Rangers towards one of their enemies, took the hands of their benefactors and bathed them with the tears of gratitude. It was indeed a most touching scene. And we never shall forget the long, wistful gaze the girl gave us, as we parted from her at the door, while her soul seemed to offer up a prayer for our kindness. We continued on towards Marin, keeping some five miles in the advance, passing through a most beautiful rolling country, with the mountains rising far in the distance. The road now became more level and even than any we had passed over, and conse- quently the pioneers were enabled to travel faster. When within about a mile of Marin, the scenery that presented itself was mag- nificent in the extreme. On our right rose the tall peaks of the Sierra Alvo, about some three thousand feet high, running nearly east and west, while before us were the majestic and towering peaks of the Sierra Madre, ranging north and south, of every shape, fornting battlements, leaning towers, obelisks, and steeples APPROACH TO MARIN. 133[ which seemed almost to pierce the heavens. Again, on our left, another chain of mountains reared their lofty summits towards the blue sky, the whole composing, as it were, a semicircle, and pre- senting a scene of grandeur and surpassing beauty which filled one with involuntary awe and admiration, while the soul became entrapped and lost, as it were, in contemplating the masterly works of nature. About 10, A. M., we arrived in sight of Marin, which, in the dis- tance, resembled a country seat, with beautiful gardens and parks. " On reaching the hill," says Mr. Kendall, " overlooking the town, eight hundred or a thousand yards distant, we came in plain sight of a large body of the enemy's cavalry, ranged in their principal street, and evidently much flurried by our appearance. They were armed with new escopetas and lances, and among the uni- forms were many of bright scarlet. " With a force entirely too small to approach nearer — having only twenty-five men with him — McCuUoch ordered a halt. The plaza was concealed from sight by the church and the adjoining buildings, making it impossible to tell whether there were any infantry or artillery in the town or not. The place oflfered every opportunity for concealing an enemy of thousands ; and as our commander was not so particularly certain that the Mexicans might not send an eighteen-pound shot, or some missile of the kind, up our way on a flying visit, we were ordered to scatter a Httle along the brow of the hill. Scouts, in the mean time, were sent out to prevent a party from getting in our rear, as the advance of Gen. Taylor was still several miles off*. " For an hour we sat watching the hurried movements of the cavalry in the town, unable to make out their intentions. Horse- men were plainly seen dashing and cavorting about, while men on foot were jumping to get out of their way. Several greasers — Mexicans of the lower order, dressed in greasy buckskin — were taken in the chaparral close by us, or voluntarily came up, who stated that the party below us was commanded by Gen. Torrejon, who had driven them out of the place and had threatened to destroy their houses by fire before los Americanos should gain possession. They pointed out their jacales and casas to us, and implored our assistance in saving them ! Singular war this, and more singular the people ! " In about an hour the cavalry began to move off in order, taking the route towards Monterey, now indistinctly seen lying at the foot of a large mountain ten or eleven leagues off. Their rear had not yet left the place before McCuUoch, accompanied only by Col. Peyton, was dogging after them, intent on watching their movements. In half an hour's time our captain appeared 12 134 DESCRIPTION OF MARIN. near the main street and beckoned us down, and in five minutes more we were all in the plaza. Nearly every house was closed, and the few men we met — for the women had all been taken off — greeted us as amigos, or friends, with their hats in their hands. One old fellow, living in a large house next door to the church, said he had been beaten — severely beaten — after we appeared in the night, by some of Torrejon's officers, to induce him to leave ; but, regardless of blows, he had determined to stick by his pre- mises and property. All the inhabitants had been shamefully abused, their property taken from them, and they were then driven into the chaparral ; and we were told that in an hour's time more, had our company not appeared in sight, they would have set fire to the place. " Such is the pohcy which has been adopted, and such the course pursued by Torrejon at every rancho and town since the army left Serralvo. To drive off the inhabitants and destroy all the supplies on the road is the game they are now playing, cer- tainly determining to harass Gen. Taylor if they do not intend to fight him. The Mexicans all along on the road spoke confidently that Gen. Taylor would meet with stout resistance at this place ; but the force we met only amounted to some eight hundred or a thousand cavalry, and they started off without firing a gun." The town is most sublimely situated on a beautiful piece of table-land, surrounded by the mountains ; it is a lovely little place, and contains several very handsome buildings ; also, a church, which is well built of white free-stone, the handsomest one we had yet seen. Its beautiful white steeple contrasted finely with its cornices and turrets, which were tipped with red, and we almost imagined that we were in some httle New England village. The houses were neatly built, and no doubt, from the tapestry of the walls, they had been furnished accordingly. On the south side of the town there is a clever stream of water, but not very good, being discoloured by hmestone, which gives it an unpleasant taste. They, however, have most excellent well water here. The wells are very deep, and, instead of having a crank to draw the water, the Mexicans use a pulley, and walk off with the end of the rope, instead of hauling the bucket up by the hand. The water was clear, and as cool as ice, which was perfect nectar to the men after our hot ride. The few stores that were in the place were all deserted, presenting only empty shelves. It was now about noon, and Gen. Taylor having come up with the First Division, the town was soon filled with our troops. All felt hungry, but with very little prospect of satisfying our appe- tites, as it was not yet known from head-quarters what was to be our next movement. On entering a house on the corner of the A MEXICAN DINNER. 135 plaza, we found an old lady who seemed perfectly delighted ut the arrival of our troops, and, to our surprise, we saw a table seKout, which, from its looks, had been spread with a fine dinner ; and s<^) it turned out ; for the old lady told us that she had been ordered\ to prepare dinner for some of the Mexican officers, and that, on our appearance, they took what they could from the table and left, being in too great a hurry to stay and finish their meal. She ap- peared well pleased at their discomfiture, and poured forth a volume of vituperation against them generally, and Gen. Torrejon especially, who, she said, had ordered fifteen beeves to be killed the night previous, and had up as many more for slaughter. "They carried off every thing they could," said she, "and never paid me a cent." She then brought in the balance of the dinner, consisting of roast beef, tortillas, pepper sauce, and onions, and frijolas, or red beans. We sat down to the table with several officers, and had a most glorious repast, for which we amply paid the old lady. In the afternoon Gen. Taylor moved with the First Division, and encamped about two miles westward from town, near a litt!e stream, the head-waters of the San Juan. The dragoons occupied the plaza, while the Rangers encamped near them in a large lot or yard. That night the men were " in for a good sleep,'' as they expressed it, and spreading their blankets on the clean ground, lay smoking their pipes and talking over the rumors and news of the day, until the camp gradually became wrapped in slumber. On the morning of the 16th, we moved to the banks of the San Juan, near the camp of the First Division. Gen. Worth, with the Second Division, came up this morning and joined us. To give the reader an idea of some of the scenes of a marching army, we give the following graphic sketch by our friend Haile. Mrs. Bourdett, the " Heroine of Fort Brown," here spoken of, but bet- ter known in the army as the " Great Western," catered for the officers of the 5th Infantry. "The heroine of Fort Brown, or 'Great Western,' is in the crowd. She drives two Mexican ponies in a light wagon, and carries the apparatus and necessaries for her mess, which now numbers about a dozen young officers. There are a number of women along, with young children. One soldier is leading a pony, with two little children, two and three years old, strapped fast to the saddle, one on each side, like panniers. The poor httle things are sadly sunburnt, and look thin and half starved, but they are as gay as larks, and even their little faces are turned in child- ish astonishment towards the lofty mountains that rise like great clouds before us." 136 A great many of the Mexicans had come into town from the chaparroi, where they had hid themselves, and were now sup- plying}^ the camp with tortillas, sweet cakes, and melons, besides fodder, corn, and grass, for our horses. The picket-guard of the Rangers, stationed about a mile in the advance, captured a pack- mule this morning, laden with baggage, which proved the source of much merriment to our men. We give Mr. Kendall's account of the affair. " We had a funny scene in our company, this afternoon. Two or three of the men, while out on picket, found a mule load of bag- gage belonging to a Mexican officer. The animal had probably stampeded during the retreat of the day before, and Torrejon's men were in too great a hurry to hunt up runaway mules. The letters found would show that the owner was Don Ignacio some- thing or other, captain of the third company of Guanajuato cav- alry, and to set forth that Don Ignacio was a man of some conse- quence, he had a scarlet coat of the finest broadcloth, covered with pure silver buttons, ornamented with rich silver embroidery, and upon the breast of which was an order. His cap was of blue velvet, richly ornamented with silver band and tassels, while his cavalry pantaloons, of blue broadcloth foxed with morocco, had a wide stripe of red down their outer seams. Among the baggage was also a mattrass, several pillows, the cases of which were elabo- rately worked, and other fine bed-furniture ; in addition to all this, as if this were not enough, there were some half a dozen red, green, and figured petticoats, a dozen pair of beautiful little pink, blue, and white satin sHppers, to say nothing of a dozen neatly wrought Hnen camisas — all the wardrobe of some pretty Pohlana girl, who had doubtless followed Don Ignacio to the wars. " After all this ' large and elegant assortment ' had been opened, our orderly sergeant — the son of a member of Congress from Ten- nessee — rigged himself out in the showy uniform of the Mexican officer, and strutted forth to detail a picket-guard, decidedly the best dressed man in the invading army, from Gen. Taylor down. In the mean time, there were others who girt the Poblano's petti- coats about them, and then executed divers cracoviennes and ca- chucas, to the great amusement of the bystanders, and to the great danger of stampeding all our horses. Altogether, the scene was extremely diverting, and I put it down as a little episode in the life we have led of late. " The letters found were principally from the family of tho officer, but there was one from Gen. Cortazar, dated at Celaya, about the latter part of August, in which that general warmly hopes that Don Ignacio may be successful in assisting to drive the perfidious invaders of Texas from the country. So far, to say the CAPTURE OF A SPY. 137 least of it, Don Ignacio has not realized Gen. Cortazar's hopes to any considerable extent, although there is no telhng what he may do yet. AJl joking aside, the Guanajuato officers are among the most intelligent and gentlemanly in the Mexican army. A de- tachment of them had charge of the Texian Santa Fe prisoners, in the city of Mexico, four or five years since, and from them they always received the best treatment, to my certain knowledge. It has been said by the Mexicans here, that the officer who lost his baggage was the last to leave Marin, and that he did all in his power to protect the inhabitants from abuse. I have spoken of the Po- blanas above ; if you wish to read a graphic account of them, get hold of Madame Calderon's work on Mexico." The next day, Gen. Butler's division arrived, and the whole army was noAv concentrated at this place. We went up to town in the morning, but found all looking lonely and desolate. The plain on which our army was encamped is about two hundred feet beJow the town, and but for the smoke of the camp-fires, no one would have supposed that there was any armed force in the vicinity, so com- pletely were the tents hidden from the view by the dense chapar- ral which lined each side of the road. Many were occupied to-day, writing their last letter home. Some were seen sitting in the shade, under the trees, with their nether legs for a table, inditing their epistles, and looking quite rural. Several prisoners were taken, among whom was one who said he had been em- ployed upon the ditches and fortifications of Monterey, and that he had made his escape two days ago. He described the different works and fortifications with great accuracy, and said that Ampu- dia had sent ofTall the women, and that his force consisted of 8000 regulars and 3000 rancheros, with whom he determined to hold the city. In the afternoon, an express arrived from the Spanish consul at Monterey, giving to Gen. Taylor the points of the city, and requesting the observance of the flag of " her most Catholic majesty," and protection to all foreigners. A fellow who was sell- ing cakes about camp, in disguise, as a spy, was suspected of having distributed treasonable documents about camp. He proved to be an old acquaintance, no less than the said Heronimo, the spy we captured on the scout to Papagayo. He professed utter igno- rance, however, on the subject, and denied having been in our camp before. The documents consisted of a letter, in English^ from Ampudia, promising a reward to our soldiers to desert, and a circular, intended for the alcaldes and others, to take care of tho deserters. It will be perceived that the letter is a fair sample of Ampudia's English literature, — while at the same time the circu- lar is evidence of the wily sagacity of the Mexican commander. 12* 1 138 ampudia's letter axd circular. Ar-mt of the NoKTtt, GcKeral in Chief. Head-Quarters, Monterey September 15th, 1S46. It is well-known that the war carried on to the repubhc of Mexico by the gfovernment of the United States of America is un- just, illegal, and anti-christian, for which reason no one ought to contribute to it. The Federal Gkiremment having been happily re-established, a large number of the battalions of the National Guard, in the States of Coahuila, St. Louis Potosi, Guanajuato, Zacatecas, Q,ue- retaro, and others, are ready to be on the field, and fight for our independence. Acting according with the dictates of honour, and in comphance with what my country- requires from me, in the name of my government, I offer to edl individuals that will lay- down their arms, and separate themselves from the American army, seeking protection, they will be well received and treated in all the plantations, farms or towns, where they will first arrive, and assisted for their march to the interior of the repubhc, by all the authorities on the road, as has been done with all those that have passed over to us. To all those that wish to serve in the Mexican army, their offices will be conserved and guarantied. Pedro pe Ampudia. [Translation of the "Circular "] "Head-Quakteks of the Akmt of the Nokth. "September 15. 1S46. "The object of the circular which is annexed, in English, is to make known to individuals among the troops of the United States — who, I am informed, desire to abandon that flag — the kind dispo- sitions with which they will be welcomed and protected under the flasr of Mexico, whose only device is to resist the unjust aggres- sion of the neighbouring republic, and to open wide the arms of the repubhc to those who seek the shelter of her flag with friendly purpose. Therefore, I now direct you that such soldiers as may present themselves from the enemy's ranks, with friendly pur- poses, unequivocally evinced, be assisted and conducted to the interior of the republic by the most convenient points and roads. But those who present themselves in a hostile attitude, or who, under friendly appearances, conceal sinister designs against the sacred rights of the repubhc — against these you are directed to make war in every mode. And in case the conduct of those who present themselves should be doubtful, and it be difficult to deter- mine whether their purposes be friendly or hostile, you will send them, under a secure guard, to head-quarters ; and if this be not possible, from circumstances which may occur during the war. SCOUT TO PESCARIA CHICA. 139 you will have them marched to some point in the interior, beyond the reach of the enemy's advanced parties. I make this commu- nication to you for your punctual and exact compliance therewith, holding you reponsible for the slightest omission in regard to any point contained in this order, the high importance of which is well known. God and Liberty." At sundown, the men got supper. Orders were issued for the march of the army on the morrow. At night we again had the honour of being detailed on picket-guard. The detachment crossed the river and proceeded about a mile and a half on the road, where we halted and concealed ourselves in the chaparral. We stopped several Mexicans during the night ; among the rest, the courier of the Spanish consul, who said he had got lost. Nothing occurred of interest, and at gray-dawn, on the morning of the 18th, we returned to camp, where we found most of our men in the saddle. We had barely time to eat our breakfast, before we were ordered to march. Gen. Taylor had ascertained that Gen. Torrejon's cavalr}' were encamped in the vicinity of Pescaria Chica, a small towm to the southward, and on the left of the main route to Monterey, and Col. May, with his squadron of dragoons, was ordered to proceed with Capt. Gillespie's and our company of Rangers to cut them off, as it was thought their object was to attack our baggage-train and pack-mules in the rear. Consequently, we took down the right bank of the stream, while the rest of the army moved on the direct road, the Second Division being in the advance. After proceeding a quarter of a mile down the stream, we met an old man, mounted on a mustang pony, whom we pressed into service as a guide, and forced him to show us the road which the Mexicans had taken, only the night before. He at first led us astray, and protested that he did not know the route the enemy had pursued ; and it was only on threatening him with death, that he put us on the right trail. The little path we followed, led us through a beautiful level valley, lined on each side with hills and mountains. We soon found the tracks, or "'signs''^ of the enemy, and discovered the look-outs, or spies of the Mexicans on the distant hills. We dashed on at a merry gait, until 8, a. m., when we arrived at Pescaria Chica, a pretty httle village, about nine miles from Marin camp. At our unexpected appearance, the women, terrified and fright- ened out of their senses, ran into the houses, and clasping their children close to them, thought they were all to be murdered. The men also hid themselves, or stood doggedly by the doors of their houses. The command halted at the entrance of the towTi, while the officers proceeded, with a few dragoons, to call on the alcalde for information. Some of the houses were built half of logs, and the other half of white hme-stone, dividing at the door- 140 CAMP AT SAN FRANCISCO. way, which looked very singular. On approaching a very neat house, where we saw a man standing, we asked him if he had any wine. The fellow looked as black as night, and shaking his finger, repHed in a surly tone that he had none ; when quite a pretty girl, who was standing in the house, near the door, with her cheeks still wet with tears, spoke up and said they had wine, and at her solicitation, the man was made to bring us a bottle, for which he demanded half a dollar. Waving the man aside with a signi- ficant motion, we beckoned to the girl, to whom, as she timidly ap- proached, we gave a dollar, the only piece of money we had ; she looked up, and smiling through her tears, thanked us, and offered to bring us more. Here we dismissed our old guide, having ascertained that the enemy had pushed on towards the mountains, and taking another, a middle-aged man, who was a-foot, and had but one shoe on, we struck up the Agua Frio river, towards the Monterey road. The guide seemed very willing to show us the route, and walked on with the greatest alacrity, notwithstanding he was so illy shod. We could not help but feel sorry for the poor creature, who seemed to think nothing of keeping up with us, though we travelled in a very fast walk. We pushed on three miles farther, and having passed through a rancho, called Zacatecas, soon after crossed the Agua Frio, when we discovered a Mexican, galloping off at a rapid rate. A command to halt, backed by the aim of a dozen rifles, soon brought the fugitive to, whom we compelled to show the com- mand into the main road, discharging, in the mean time, our second guide. We proceeded on two miles farther, and arrived at rancho Agua Frio, where we dismounted, and rested our horses for half an hour. Here we learned from a woman who sold us cake and wine, that Torrejon, with five hundred men, had passed through this place last night. The instructions, however, did not permit us to follow him. Mounting our horses, we pushed on for San Francisco, six miles distant, where we arrived at 1, p. m., making twenty miles that we had travelled, though only fourteen from Marin, on the direct road. The army had already arrived at this place, and were making preparations to encamp for the night. Our company encamped near a fine corn-field, and we had plenty of green fodder for our horses. A thousand rumors were afloat in camp, respecting the enemy at Monterey. The general opinion that now prevailed, was that a bloody battle would be fought. Sometime after our arrival, it was discovered that the Mexicans had shut off the water-courses, by damming them up, above us ; in catching two fellows in the act, they pretended they were work- ing the road. We soon opened them again, however, and a plen- tiful supply of the pure hquid was had for all purposes. In the ORDER OF MARCH. 141 afternoon, Gen. Henderson arrived, with the two regiments of Texas Rangers, under Cols. Hays and Wood. A general stir and activity now prevailed in camp ; all seized the present opportunity to do that which had heen left undone. Muskets, rifles, and pistols were cleaned, reloaded, and primed. Officers of the different batteries were drilling the artillery men, and every arrangement was being made throughout the camp, while the clear ringing of the anvils of the forges of the different batteries, as the armourer's hammer descended with sturdy stroke, gave token of the preparation for the coming contest. All were in fine spirits, young hearts beat high with the assurance of vic- tory, and longed for the hour to come which should crown them with distinction, or sacrifice them to their country's sacred cause. The watch-fires of the camps lit up the surrounding scene, and presented to the view the long lines of the encampment of the army. It was a fine star-hght night, and a cool and pleasant breeze was stirring, while ever and anon, from the door of a tent, or a group sitting around a fire, would be heard a loud peal of merry laughter ; and were it not for the occasional clang of arms, and the sonorous challenging of the posted sentinels, the scene might have been taken for some gay festival, instead of the stern camp of American warriors. Gradually all became still and hushed in repose ; and thus slumbered the army, to awaken only to more novel and exciting scenes. At daylight on the 19th of September, the troops again moved forward in the following order of battle, on the road to Monterey : Capt. Gillespie's company in the advance, followed by McCul- loch's, and the remainder of our regiment. Col. Hays', which we had now joined for the first time, our company having been here- tofore detached ; then came Col. Woods's Eastern Texas Rangers, the brigade under the command of Maj. Gen. Henderson ; the First Division followed, under Gen. Twiggs, and the Second Division, under Gen. Worth, while the Third Division of volunteers, under Gen. Butler, brought up the rear. Advancing in solid battalions, and moving as it were like the ocean's swell, with the sun's rays gUt- tering upon the arms of the dark and serried ranks, and the bright artillery flashing in the midst, they formed a noble and imposing pageantry. As the army moved on. Gen. Taylor and staff were seen advancing to the head of the column. A low murmur of admiration rose in the ranks as the general passed, bowing to both men and ofiicers, who saluted him as he rode by, when a voice was heard saying, " Boys, the general himself is going to lead us forth to battle !" The road we now passed over was lined on each side with cul- tivated fields and occasional jacals, or huts. When about three 142 ARRIVAL BEFORE THE CITY. miles from Monterey, we passed a beautiful walnut grove on our left, the largest timber we had yet seen in Mexico. As we ad- vanced towards the city, a heavy fog rested on the surface and the surrounding heights, conceahng nearly every thing from our view, but which became gradually dissipated by the sun. At 8, a. m., we arrived within about 1500 yards of the city, when we were ordered to halt. The scene before us was magnificent and sub- hme. There lay the rich and lovely valley of Monterey, a beau- tiful undulating plain, while in its centre, between the Saddle mountain and another chain of the Sierra del Madre, lay concealed the capita] of Nueva Leon; the towering steeple of the Cathedral alone being visible to mark its situation. Off to the right was the Citadel, from whose battlements a flag occasionally flaunted list- lessly to the breeze, and then hung in folds again, struggling as it were to maintain its proud display. To the left could be seen the avenues leading to the city, which were fortified by the batteries, and other works of the enemy. Still farther to the right, in the rear of the city, stood, on a high hill overlooking the whole, the Bishop's Palace, displaying from its turrets the black cross of the Holy Church, and the green, white, and red banner of Mexico ; while the tops of the adjacent heights were crowned Avith snow- white tents. Beautiful green fields met the eye on either side, and cattle were quietly grazing about, while mountains on every hand rose with their high peaks to heaven, tipped with white fleecy clouds, which contrasted beautifully with the bright green of the base of those nearer by. Not a soul was to be seen, and the mountains, the vale, and the city seemed alike undisturbed, and wrapped in the calm repose of nature : all was still, save the wild whistle of the forest bird. Soon, however, a blast from the Mexican trumpets came echo- ing over the plain, and along the outskirt of the walls was seen the Mexican cavalry in proud array, with lances bright, and pen- nons of red and green waving in the breeze, steadily advancing as it were to meet us. Our regiment, (Col. Hays',) was now or- dered to dismount and look to their arms. Mounting again, we formed in sections of five, and our bugle sounded a charge. We advanced in a brisk trot towards the foe, and were in the act of charging at a full gallop, when the enemy was seen to wheel, and retreat towards the city. We were immediately halted, when we were saluted from the Citadel, (see Map, letter N,) by its guns opening upon us with 12-pound shot, which was returned by a shout of defiance that rang wildly over the plain. The Mexicans had thought by this movement to entice us close in under the guns of their forts ; but the keen-sighted Hays saw the rwse, and having ordered a countermarch, we proceeded back to our former po- RECONNOITERING THE CITY. 143 sition without sustaining any injury. In the mean time, Gen. Taylor and staff, with Major Mansfield, and a party of engineers, had proceeded to the right, in order to make an examination of the enemy's works, when a ball struck within twenty feet of Gen. Taylor, and came bounding up towards the group, showing that the enemy had got the range with their guns, the other balls having fallen short. The Rangers were now ordered to march back to a corn-field, through which ran a streamlet, where we watered and rested our horses for half an hour, when we again marched out on the plain. The enemy re-opened their fire, and the balls fre- quently, after tearing up the ground, would roll up to where we stood. We were kept marching and counter-marching before the enemy's batteries for some two hours, when we received orders to withdraw to the beautiful grove of San Domingo, which was christened " Walnut Springs," where Gen. Taylor pitched his camp. It was indeed a lovely spot. The tall forest trees afforded us both shade and shelter, while the silvery streams, and cool bub- bling springs, served to slake our thirst. The whole army which had hned the road for miles, had now come up. On hearing the firing of the guns from the Citadel, and our cheers, which were carried back from front to rear, and re-echoed through that long Hne, every man became electrified and filled with enthusiasm, and rushed forward, thinking that the battle had begun ; it was with difficulty, indeed, that they could be restrained from a run. The encampments were soon laid off, tents were pitched, and the soldiers prepared dinner. In the afternoon. Major Mansfield, Capt. John Sanders and Lieut. Scarritt, of the engineer depart- ment, and Lieut. Meade of the topographical engineers, supported by Capt. Pike, Graham's squadron of dragoons, and Capt. Gilles- pie's Texas Rangers, went out to make a reconnoissance towards the Saltillo road, while Capt. Williams, of the topographical engi- neers, with Capt. Ridgely, of the artillery, and others, proceeded at the same time to make a reconnoissance of the eastern approaches. The batteries of the enemy kept playing during the afternoon, as the different parties would approach their works. Large foraging parties of the Rangers also went out, and brought in several pri- soners, among whom was the spy ^^ Heronimo.^^ He was again brought up for examination before Gen. Taylor, but evaded or refused to answer all important questions. In order to gain the information, he was threatened to be hung; and, as we were informed, it was only when the fellow felt the rope tighten around his neck, that he promised to tell the truth, after which he was sent off to the guard-house. At dark, the reconnoitering parties came in. The day closed without any farther incident, and the sun sank behind the mountains, leaving its gorgeous hues veiled 144 THE NIGHT BEFORE THE BATTLE. by a murky mist, which at last became wrapt in the dark folds of night. Nothing more then occurred to disturb the sweet repose of the peaceful valley of Monterey, though in its dark forests was planning an attack that was soon to awaken it to scenes of carnage and bloodshed, and shake its very centre with the dread roar of musketry and artillery. Arrangements were now made to make a further reconnoissance in the direction of the works overlooking the Bishop's Palace, (see letter E,) towards the Saltillo road, to ascertain the practicabiHty of making a circuitous route in the rear of the town, for the purpose of turning the position of the enemy, and cutting off their line of communication ; as it was currently reported that Santa Anna was advancing with a powerful force to the rehef of the beleaguered city. Although all appeared per- fectly quiet, yet great preparations were being made, and the heavy sound of wagon teams, with the clang of dragoon sabres, and the tread of horses, were now and then distinctly heard. The expe- dition, under Col. Duncan, was greatly favoured by the darkness of the night, and about 11, p. m., the party came in safe, having made a detour of some five miles, in which they were perfectly successful, and proved the practicabiHty of the scheme. During the night we made some thirty prisoners. Towards morning, a drizzhng rain fell, and around the guard-fires were seen groups of men, wrapped in their blankets, guarding the prisoners, and amusing each other by recounting tales, and speculating on the events of the coming day. Thus passed the night, and many a scene might be described, afibrding food for mirth, and presenting subjects for the artist's pencil. Towards morning it became raw and unpleasant, and for those who had no tents, very disagreeable, as the rain still continued to fall. Thus ended our first night of encampment at " Walnut Springs," near the city of Monterey. 5Alt;llo * ■ ^ i\\\ jl Lrawii hij LieuL. Ceo. MtaiLt, i. S. loj/o^/r.qihUul Evgitieers. ^■^E^lROUTE ./ ROAD w^el TAYLOR'S CAMP K. L. M. N. O. PQR. 2. 3&4. 5. liegeudi Mexican Ambuscade of the 20th September. Yard into which Mexicans fired at nightfall on 20th Charge of Mexican Lancers on morning of 21st Position of 2nd Division on 21st Lonia Independencia. Height stormed by Col. Childs on the 22d Bishop's Palace carried on 22d Loma Federacion. Height stormed by Captain Smith's party on the 21st Ft. Soldada. Redoubt stormed by General Smith on the 21st Arista's house and garden Church and Cemetery with loopholes for musketry Plazuela de Came Small Plaza Grand Plaza Citadel Mortar Battery. Position occupied by onr troops on the morning of the 24th Camp of 2d Division night of Sept 20th Fort Ten^ria. Redoubt of 4 guns assaulted and carried on the morning of the 21st by 1st and 3d Divisions Fort El Diablo. Redoubt of 3 Breast works [guns Redoubt of 4 guns Line of barricades Buildings of different kinds FORTIFICATIONS OF MONTEREY. 149 CHAPTER XV. Description of the Fortifications at Monterey — General Taylor's military Talent — His Character — Gen. Worth — Enumeration of his Division — Anec- dote of Gen. Taylor — The March and Detour of the Second Division — The Movement discovered by the Enemy — Diversion made by the First and Third Divisions — Arrival of the Second Division at the Pescaria Grande Road — The Reconnoissance — The Ambuscade — Heroic Act of Lieut. McMullen — Camp at the Jacales— The Attack on Pigs and Poultry— The Surprise and Attack, by the Mexican Cavalry — Their Repulse with Loss — ■ Incidents of the Night — Our dreary Situation — The superiority of the Ene- my's Forces and Defences. As daylight dawned on Sunday morning, the 20th of Sep- tember, the heavy clouds and drizzling rain, that still pre- vailed, shut out the sunlight, and made the scene around as gloomy as it before had been bright. Before we proceed farther to relate the operations of our army, it will be necessary to give to the reader the situation of the enemy's defences and fortifica- tions, in order that the movements and positions of the different divisions of our troops, in storming the city of Monterey, may be fully understood. We shall commence by describing the works and fortifications of the enemy, which were stormed by the First and Third Divisions on Gen. Taylor's side. On reference to the Map, the reader will see the situation of the works as described. No. 1. A strong redoubt of masonry of four faces, with an open gorge of ten feet, prepared for four guns, overlooked and commanded by a large stone house in the rear, prepared with sand-bags and loop-holes for infantry. No. 2. Strong redoubt of four faces, open gorge of twenty feet, prepared for three guns. No. 3. Fleches of masonry for infantry, and breast-works. No. 4. Strong redoubt for one gun, not occupied by the enemy. No. 5. Tete-de-pont in front of the bridge of the Purisina, a strong work of masonry for three guns. No. 6. A strong redoubt of masonry for four guns, overlooking the approaches from Cadareyta, and commanding the gorge of No. 2. No. 7. A strong redoubt of masonry for three guns, overlooked and commanded by a large stone house, prepared for infantry with loop-holes and sand-bags. Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7, were connected by breastworks of earth and brush for infantry, thus forming a complete line of de- fence from 4 to 7. Barricades of masonry, twelve feet thick, with embrasures for guns, were met with in every direction. 13* 150 GENERAL TAYLOR. The house-tops and garden walls were loopholed throughout the city, and prepared with sand-bags for infantry defence. These strong works defended the eastern and southern ap- proaches ; while the Citadel, (see letter N,) a large rectangular stone building, the walls only standing, surrounded by an enclosed work of sohd masonry, of four bastioned fronts, and prepared for thirty-one guns, commanded and protected the northern ap- proaches. The following works defended the western approaches, which were stormed by the Second (Gen. Worth's) Division. F. The Bishop's Castle, containing four guns. E. A strong redoubt on the height called " Independencia^^* leading doAvn to the Bishop's Palace, or castle, which had in posi- tion two guns. G. A battery of two guns on Federation Hill, leading to Fort Soldada. H. Fort Soldada, containing in position one gun. Gen. Taylor, after having made a reconnoissance of the posi- tion and principal works of the enemy, as well as circumstances would permit, with that sagacity, military combination, and con- centration, which so few were then willing to give him credit for, saw with the quick observation and discernment of a skilful and scientific chess-player, the assailable points of the enemy, and determined at once upon the plan of attack. The city was so thoroughly fortified on the east side, that it became necessary to gain the enemy's rear, and attack and carry the almost impreg- nable positions on the west side in the reverse, in order to break the concentrated force of the Mexicans, and thus give to the American army two chances of success ; whereas by making an attack in the front, or eastern side, we had scarcely any at all. Noble, magnanimous, and generous in heart ; calm and collected on the field of battle ; though his iron determination, and the rapid revolution of military movements in his mind made him the stern warrior, and which, when thwarted, caused his impetuous blood to rise at inaction, delay, or failure ; yet the commander-in- chief ever held in view the comfort of his soldiers, and no one ever appealed to him in vain for the redress of grievances or wrongs. Preparations were accordingly made to gain the Saltillo road, and for this important object Gen. Taylor generously confided the expedition to the command of Gen. Worth, ivho had been pre- vented by circumstances from participating in the late battles of " Palo Alto" and " Resaca de la Palma." With all the impetuosity and eagerness of a war-steed chafing under the curb which held his progress in check, he had longed for the hour to come when he should once more take the field against the foe. That hour had arrived, and to a brave and gallant spirit had the trust been ANECDOTE OF GENERAL TAYLOR. 151 reposed. Orders were accordingly given to Gen. Worth to pro- ceed with his division, by a circuitous route, around tlie hill of the Bishop*s Palace and carry the heights, or detached works, in the enemy's rear. For the sake of accuracy, we will again enumerate the force of this division. The First Brigade, com- manded by Lieut. Col. Staniford, consisted of Lieut. CoL Duncan's battery of horse-artillery, Lieut. CoL Child's artillery battalion, composed of the following companies : Company K, of the 2d regiment, companies A and B, of the 3d regiment, and companies G, H, and I, of the 4th regiment, acting as infantry ; and the 8th regiment of the infantry, under Capt. Scriven. The Second Bri- gade, commanded by Brig. Gen. P. F. Smith, (colonel of rifles,) was composed of Lieut. Mackall's battery of horse-artillery, the 5th Infantry, to which was attached Capt. Blanchard's company of Louisiana volunteers, under Maj. Martin Scott ; and the 7th Infantry, under Capt. Miles. Col. Hays' regiment of mounted Texas Rangers also accompanied the division, numbering in all about 2000 effective men. It was now about 9 o'clock, a. m., when the sun showed his bright face over the mountain tops, and the day became clear and serene. Orders were issued to our regiment, Col. Hays', to get ready for a march. A thousand rumors were afloat as to where we were going and Vv^hat was to be done. The general impression prevailed that we were to escort Col. Duncan to plant his artillery. From the delay which ensued, however, it was soon apparent that a more important movement was to take place. The whole camp was astir, and orderlies were seen running to and fro carry- ing messages. We took this opportunity to make a few calls on some friends, whom we had not seen since we joined the army, on account of our position in the advance. Passing the head- quarters of Gen. Taylor, our attention was attracted to a line of some fifteen or twenty delinquents, regulars and volunteers, who were brought up before the general for reprimand. We were surprised to see with what patience the general listened to each man's excuse or complaint. On the extreme left of the hne stood a volunteer over six feet in height, and stout in proportion, who, on being asked what he had to say, repHed : " Why, we haven't had any bread for two days, and mighty little to eat, any how; and you see, general, a man can't fight well without he gets somethin' to eat." " Very well," said the general, turning to the officer, " see that every man has as much as he can eat, and I'll see that they have plenty of fighting." The squad was dismissed well pleased — one fellow observing that " the general was on their side, any how," and, as soon as 152 THE DETOUR OF THE SECOND DIVISION. they got at a respectful distance, they seconded the motion of one of the party to give "0/rf Zack^^ a cheer, which was forthwith put into execution. About noon our regiment was ordered to m.ove, and we took up the hne of march towards the plaza, when we struck off to the right, through the chaparral towards some corn-fields. A com- pany of pioneers was sent in the advance with Lieut. McCown, under Capt. Sanders, to cut a passage through the chaparral fences, so as to make the road practicable for artillery, which had now come up with the rest of the conunand of the Second Divi- sion. Our progress was very slow, as we had many difficulties to overcome. By the time Ave reached the Monclova road, it was discovered that the enemy had perceived our movement, and large bodies of infantry could be seen advancing at a run from the Bishop's Palace towards the height above it.- In order to divert the attention of the enemy. Gen. Taylor, who also perceived their movements, ordered out the First and Third Divisions before the city, thus making a manifestation in our favour. We pushed on without interruption until we reached the Pescaria Grande road, when we could plainly see the tents of the enemy on Loma In- depende?icia, or Independence Hill — their cannon being concealed from our view. Here we found a neighbourhood-road leading around the base of some high hills on our right towards the great Saltillo road, where the head of the column halted for the remain- der of the command to come up. ,In the mean time, Gen. Burle- son, of Texas, with about twenty men, proceeded along the base of the hill, while Col. Hays and Lieut. Cols. Duncan and Walker, with Captain McCulloch and Col. Peyton, late of the Louisir ana volunteers, ascended the hill to reconnoitre. While these officers were riding on the brow of the hill. Gen. Worth came up with Lieut. Wood of his staff, and also ascended the hill. Soon after. Gen. Burleson rode up, and, inquiring for Gen. Worth, re- ported that he had met the enemy's pickets, and that a large force, consisting of cavalry and infantry, was approaching from the turn or point of the hill beyond, with the evident intention of disputing our further progress. Our position at once became very critical, and the presence of Gen. Worth was immediately required. Mr. Kendall here volunteered his services, and proceeded after Gen. Worth, who by this time had disappeared far to the right, on the brow of the hill. A little after, all the officers, except McCulloch, were seen coming down. Gen. Worth, on his arrival, ordered a detachment of McCulloch's company, under Lieut. Kelly, to pro- ceed and join the detachment of Capt. Gillespie's compan}^ — Gens. Worth and Smith, Col. Hays, and Lieut. Cols. Duncan and Walker, with Gen. Burleson, taking the advance, while they were supported SKIRMISHES WITH THE ENEMY. 153 by the rest of the Texians and a body of infantry. Turning a bend in the road, at a mountain gorge on our right, where the enemy's scouts were discovered, we halted at some jacales on our left ; here the men filled their canteens with water from the wells, while Gens. Worth and Smith again ascended another of a chain of hills on our right, to examine more closely the defences of Loma Independencia, and the assailable points of the enemy's works. As we had not yet met with any opposition from the enemy, it was determined to reconnoitre as far as the Saltillo road. Col. Hays ordered some four or five men to stay on the top of the hill to keep a look-out, and make a signal should the enemy show himself in numbers, while the advance proceeded on. We had not moved more than a thousand yards farther before it was dis- covered that a body of Mexican infantry and dismounted cavalry (who had descended from the other side of Loma Independencia, and wound around its base to conceal themselves from us) had sought cover about seventy yards from the road in some corn-fields on our left, while another body lay concealed in the fence cor- ners. We were now immediately opposite and in point-blank range of the gun battery of Independence Hill, (see A on the map,) when the enemy in ambush saluted us with a shower of musket and scopet balls — the guns from the battery of Fort Inde- pendence at the same time opening a fire of shell and shot. A retrograde movement was immediately ordered, as it was the evi- dent intention of the enemy to cut us off* before we could join our main force. So heavy was the fire that the balls struck all around us, cutting the chaparral on every side. A shell fell on the field between us and the Mexicans, and bursted with a loud report, tearing up the ground and corn, but doing us no injury. The advance consisted of not over thirty men, and a race now took : place, which w^e never entered for, to see who should gain our [main force first, the Mexicans or ourselves. Many of our horses, lalarmed at the bursting of the shells, became unmanageable, and started off* with their riders at a break-neck pace, running over 'every thing in their way. We were knocked out of our saddle on |this occasion, and hung with one foot in the stirrup, with our right jhand clinging to the mane — our horse running with us in this position for nearly a hundred yards before we recovered ourself. Behind us still was one of our comrades completely unhorsed, while the enemy's cavalry were within fifty yards of him. The heroic land gallant Lieut. John McMullen saw his danger, and, check- (ing his steed, wheeled, and, without dismounting, seized his com- u?ied od Indepe'ttdeiice Hill, where they fell, with the mountaiii for their grave,, and the? Palace for their monument. "Thus," says our comrade, Mr, Kendall, in his accoiai't of the part taken by Gen. Worth's divimon, "thus, by a series of bril- liant, well-planned and successful moye-ments, in the rery face of obstacles which appeared almost instirm^oiintable. Gen, Worth found himself in full possession of three of the eniemy's> batteries, the stronghold known as the Bishop's Palace,, seven pieces- of artillery, and a large quantity of amimuinition and intrenching- tools, two of their standards, and what was^ of still greater import" ance, the entire occupation of the Saitillo road, and a complete command of all the western portion of the city of Monterey," And all this, too, had been accomplished b-y troops exposed to> heavy rains, without shelter, with little or no sleep, anci under-' going the most arduous labour, and severe fatigue, and the most of them without food for more than forty-eight hours. At eight o'clock in the morning, Gen. Worth had sent off a bulletin to Gen. Taylor, informing him of our success in stonnin^ Independence Hill. About twelve o'clock at noon a cavalry force was reported advancing from the Pescaria Grande road, when we were sent out by Gen. Worth to reconnoitre the party, which proved to be a detachment of dragoons and Wood's Texas Rangers bear" ing an express to Gen. Worth, from Gen. Taylor, informing him of the operations of the 21st, with the sad intdligence of his heavy loss of over three hundred and fifty men, killed and wounded. At eight o'clock, p. M.,Gen. Worth despatched another bulletin, announcing the affair of the Bishop's Palace ; and at the same time stating that in case the enemy should attempt to retreat in the night, he would make a signal by burning the jacales a mile in the rear, and by throwing up rockets. The night passed off', however, without the attempt, and save the occasional flight of rockets in different parts of the city by the Mexicans, which were alone understood by them, all remained quiet. During the evening, the band of the 8th Infantry was heard playing from the Bishop's Palace, while the men prepared their first supper since we left camp at Walnut Springs. The Texians were still without their camp utensils, and had to shift for them- selves ; the pretty Mexican woman, whom we have already de- scribed, however, made up some flour which we had obtained, into tortillas, but being worn out with fatigue, the men thought more of sleep than supper. The adventures of the day were talked over while eating their mouthful of food, when the men sank to rest. We shared a board, which we lay on to keep us ■from the wet ground, with our heutenant-colonel, and having 188 CAPTAIN WALKER. learned something of his history, we will'proceed to give it to the reader. Samuel H. Walker, now captain of United States mounted jifles, was born in 1817, in Prince George county, Maryland. In 1836, at the age of nineteen, he enlisted in the Washington city volunteers for the Creek war, and after his term of service expired, he went to Florida, and served through the campaign of the war against the Indians. Waiker was afterwards employed for some time in the scouting service with the citizens at the town of lola, on the Appalachicola river. He then removed to Middle Florida, where he was employed for some time as superintendent of the railroad. In January, 1842, he emJgrated to Texas, and went out with General Johnson on the frontier. He there joined an expedition against the Indians, who had murdered a family near Clark Owen's camp, and carried off two children. The Indians were pursued, and a skirmish took place on San Antonio river, in which they were defeated, and the two children re-taken. In the spring of the same year, on Gen. Sam. Houston issuing his war procla- mation, he joined Capt. Billingsly's company of Rangers, at Bas- trop, and fought under Col. Caldwell, with Hays and Cameron, at the battle of Salado, with two hundred and ten men, who repulsed Gen. Woll, with thirteen hundred, at the time the Mexicans had retaken San Antonio, and captured the judges and lawyers, the court being then in session. It was at this time that Capt. Dor- son's company from La Grange had come up in the rear, and had been cut to pieces. BilHngsly was also in the rear with the Mexicans between him and Col. Caldwell's command,, when it became necessary to send a messenger to camp to inform Col. Caldwell of this fact. It was a hazardous undertaking, and at- tended with the greatest difficulties. As no one could be found to go, the gallant Walker volunteered, and set out in the darkness of the night and reached the camp in safety. He was then ordered to return and conduct the command in before day, as an attack was expected that morning, which he did, and was also successful. After the retreat of Gen. Woll, he joined Hays' company, and remained with him until the Summerville expedi- tion was organized against the Mexicans, at which time they took the towns of Loredo and Garrera. After Gen. Summerville's return he joined the celebrated expedition of Gens. Fisher and Greene, and was taken prisoner b}^ Gen. Ampudia at the battle of Mier. Walker afterwards made his escape from prison at Tacabayu, Santa Anna's residence, and after suffering unheard of hardships, arrived safe at Tampico. He then took passage for New Orleans, where he remained a month, when he again re- \C-^^ithout loss. Having obtained the desired information, it was thought most pru- dent to return to Agua Nueva, as it was known that Gen. Miiion was in our rear, and the risk was very great of being cut off; ac- cordingly, the detachment fell back, and arrived the next day safe in camp, without further incident. On the 20th of February, McCulloch again received orders to proceed to Encarnacion, to gain farther intelligence relative to Santa Anna's advance. In scouting to an enemy's camp, though attended with extreme peril, it will readily be perceived that there is greater security with a few men, who can more easily effect an escape, than to go in force. The major, therefore, upon this occa- sion, took with him only four men, and his second-lieutenant, Fielding Alston, accompanied by Lieut. Clark, of the Kentucky Infantry. There was no water to be obtained upon the whole route ; consequently, the scouts did not start until 4, p. m., in order to travel in the cool of the day, as well as to cover their approach by the darkness of the night. About six miles from Agua Nueva, near our picket-guard, they met with a Mexican deserter, who stated that Santa Anna had ar- rived at Encarnacion, with 20,000 troops. The Mexicans had circulated so many rumors that little or no confidence was to be put in what they said. McCulloch ordered the guard to take the deserter to Gen. Taylor, and proceeded on his way with the squad. At sundown the party left the main road and turned off into the thick chaparral to conceal themselves, and only touched the road twice during the route, which was for the purpose of crossing it. About midnight they arrived in sight of Encarnacion, and found the Mexicans encamped in force. The mcon had just set, and it was quite dark. Continuing on, they stealthily moved along unper- ceived, passing inside of the enemj^'s picket, until they arrived close to the camp-guard of the Mexicans. Here a reconnoissance was made to ascertain the length of the encampment ; they then fell back about half a mile to feed their horses on some oats, which they had carried with them. Major McCulloch now con- cluded to send back Lieut. Alston and the rest of his little party, with the exception of one man, WiUiam Phillips, to report imme- diately to Gen. Taylor, the probable strength of the enemy, and to state that he would remain behind until daylight, for the purpose of obtaining a fuller view of the enemy's camp. The intrepid McCulloch was now kit with but one man. De- . i NARROW ESCAPE. 235 termined to obtain the fullest information, they were again ap- proaching by another fork of the road, when they suddenly came in contact with the enemy's picket, who immediately pursued them. To be caught was certain death ; McCulloch and Phiihps, therefore, to elude them, and avoid the chase, boldly galloped down towards the enemy's camp, going within less than half a mile of their lines ! By this daring feat they escaped, the picket taking them for their own men trying to pass out ! Falling back to a hill about a mile distant, they concealed themselves until dayhght, when their horses were almost stampeded by the noise of the Mexicans' numerous trumpets and drums, with which they beat their reveille. At sunrise a heavy smoke settled down upon our scouts, caused by the green wood of the Mexican fires, which had now been ht, and there being no breeze to carry it away, McCulloch, although he had a fine glass with him, was prevented from seeing but little more than he had during the night. He then started on his return, and had not gone over one hundred yards when he discovered two picket-guards of twenty men each, in his advance. They were stationed about a quarter of a mile apart on the forks of the road which separated about eight miles, and again met at the rancho. McCulloch and Phillips were between the two roads, and were compelled to pass between the picket-guards on each side of them. Here they again had to run the gauntlet ; so holding down their guns by the side of their horses, that they might not be perceived by the pickets, they rode slowly and deliberately along, to induce the enemy to suppose that they were Mexicans. The pickets having been on guard all night without any fire, and it being very cold, had kindled large fires after daylight, and having tied their horses, were warming themselves, when the two scouts passed out between them without being hailed, the enemy no doubt taking them for Mexicans hunting stray horses. Pursuing their course about eight miles, McCulloch ascended a high hill to take a look at a place upon the road called Tanc le Vaca, about four miles dis- tant, where he expected to find another picket of the enemy, and true enough there they were. He remained at this place until about nine o'clock, a. m., watching both the movements of the picket and the main army, which now could be seen quite plainly with his glass, hoping that the picket of the enemy might be called in, and thus make his escape. But finding that they were not re- lieved, he avoided them by keeping around the foot of the moun- tains, and thus passed them unobserved, notwithstanding the narrowness of the pass. Once more beyond the reach of the enemy's pickets, and freed from their late dangerous position, they took a long breath, and galloped on with Hght hearts towards the camp at Agua Nueva. 236 BATTLE OF BUENA VISTA. They arrived in sight on the afternoon of the 21st. Not a tent was seen standing, but a long column of dust was discovered upon the route to Buena Vista ; our army having been immediately ordered to fall back on the reception of the news brought by Lieut. Alston. Having come up to the camp, where a small force still remained, McCulloch found Gen. Taylor anxiously waiting for him, Avho, on receiving the farther particulars, and the information that Santa Anna was on the march, in full force, merely observed, *' Very well, Major, that's all I wanted to know. I am glad they did not catch you ;" and mounting his horse, rode off with his staff for Buena Vista. The 22d of February, once only sacred for the birth of Wash- ington, was this day hallowed by the commencement of the glo- rious battle of Buena Vista, in which fell the noble Clay, Hardin, Lincoln, McKee, Yell, and the gallant sons of Texas, Missis- sippi, Arkansas, Kentucky, lUinois, and Indiana. Again the tempest of war rose at its height ; the enemy's battalions were hurled down upon our lines, and our troops were "backward borne." Now rolled the tide of victory in favour of the Mexicans ; in turn their columns shook with the frightful havoc made by our artillery and musketry, which swayed their masses to and fro,— then swept them with the whirlwind's furious blast ; and the bat- tle-field again lay covered with the dying and the dead. The little army of Gen. Taylor seemed to have been left alone as an offering and a sacrifice to the cause of our country. Nearly five hundred miles in the interior, the regular troops withdrawn, with- out reinforcements, almost cut off from supplies, and surrounded by the enemy, it Avas left to meet with a sad fate, by encountering a force overwhelming in numbers. But it withstood the shock of the mighty host ; bending to the storm of death, yet rising again and braving its fury, until the gale of combat ceased, and left the Spartan band victors of the field. With the glorious victories of Monterey and Buena Vista still green in our memory, there comes a trumpet blast from the gal- lant and hardy sons of Missouri, proclaiming new laurels, won under the chivalrous Doniphan, at the battle of Sacramento, an- nouncing the capture of the city of Chihuahua. Again, echoing from Cahfornia, comes the triumph of Col. Kearny, announcing the battle of San Pascal. Farther yet, from the shores of the Pa- cific, is heard the roar of artillery, and our gallant tars under Com- modore Stockton, from the ships Cyane, Congress, Savannah, and Portsmouth, unite with our brave troops, and another victory is wrung from the foe at San Gabriel, which resulted in the recap- ture of Los Angelos, adding another glorious battle to be cele- brated with that of the memorable " eighth of January." Again CONCLUSION. 237 the foe is made to surrender at the bombardment of Vera Cruz ; and again the "Blue Jack" of the navy, under the brav^e and skilful Commodores Conner and Perry, is mingled with the stars and stripes of the army, under the heroic Scott, and both flags flaunt on the breeze, from the battlements of the castle of San Juan d'Ulloa. Here fell the gallant Vinton and the daring Shubrick, two of America's noblest sons. But our victories do not stop here. Advancing into the interior of the enemy's country, our troops are again met by the ill-starred Santa Anna, w4io had sworn to conquer, or die upon the battle- field. The valleys echo once again with " tumuhuous war," and Cerro Gordo adds another laurel to the brow of the victorious Scott. A Mason, a Cowarden, a Davis, were sacrificed ; while the blood of a Shields and a Sumner was spilled in the conflict with the enemy. Still onward advance our gallant troops, and from the heart of the enemy's country, from the walls of the city of Mexico, are proclaimed two more brilliant victories, the battles of Contreras and Churubusco. And while we rejoice over these triumphs of our arms, while our hearts bound with the glory of these achieve- ments, we are made to lament and deplore the loss of the brave and noble spirits who were immolated at their country's shrine. The names of Butler and Thornton will ever be held dear, as bright models of American chivalry. And even while we write, is proclaimed from the halls of the Montezumas, a still more terrible conflict, — a yet more desperate struggle, — and the national flag of the Union, waving triumphantly from the battlements of the proud capital of Mexico, announces its conquest, while the heart is chilled with suspense to learn the fate of the gallant braves who have achieved this last triumph of our arms. But it is foreign to our intent to record the history of these bat- tles ; our task was but to relate the wild exciting incidents of the Texian scouts, and having finished this labour, we must here take a kind farewell of our readers, leaving it for more able pens to record the later exploits of our gallant army. -I 6. I col ^1 OPT 3 p^Pi'S^Crq ^ ® Lh"^ = 5 ^ : 8 5 Lieutentant-Colonels. Adjutants. Captains. 1st liieutenants I 2d Lieutenants. I Sergeants. Corporals. I Privates. I Commissioned Officers. Non-commiss'd Officers, Musicians and Privates, I Agfgregate. Majors. I Captains I 1st Lieutenants. I 2d Lieutenants. -1 ^ 1 Principal Musicians. SI ^_, Ol *^ ►-• ^ i Sergeants. ol OJ en to 1 Corporals. -i _ 1 Musicians. 21 Cl ^ oI S^ t-- cr> 1 Privates. I Commissioned Officers. Non-commiss'd Officers, Musicians and Privates. I Aggregate. I Privat I Commissioned Officers. Non-commiss'd Officers, Musicians and Privates I Aggregate. I Commissioned Officers. k_. Non-commiss'd Officers I Musicians. Total. i ^ ^, I Aggregate. d o S o S to i-* 60 I Killed. I Wounded. DisabioU. & Q O^ S ?: 2 ^^ ^^ a. to-* ^ ^ -"g. i,^ ^■^• c^S l> ^ S O n, ,^ M ^ CO '^ 15^ ^ .|a ^ s b U^^ Si: § § s ^^ i Pi S 1 i n t- > 1 O 4) 1 > Gen. Twiggs's. 9ri TJpfrimpnt Tlrn crnnns:. 14 11 4 2 2 ■ 9 27 31 23 9 7 2 1 5 2 ^H Tnfantrv 3d Artillery 1 5 1 6 17 Capt Shiver's Coinpanv of Te\iis Volunteers Total 10 47 8 1 4 1 2 1 106 12 9 6 6 — 17 Gen. Woktii's. Artillprv 1 •• o 1 4 1 'l 1 9 17 Total 1 1] 4 33 1 21 Gen. Butler's. 5 ] 15 ~7 q •• 6 4 5 30 T^pnnpci'jpp T? pcriinpnt ...... . 75 47 Col Wood's 1'c\as Rancors • « — ~" 3 5 2 53 68 4 Total 8 189 16 16 163 Grand Total 11 58 ''Ol 506 THE END. 6*/