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PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 AND 
 
 THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 AND 
 
 THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 THE VISITOR'S HANDBOOK WITH THE CHIEF 
 EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 BY 
 
 SOMMERVILLE STORY 
 
 D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 
 
 NEW YORK LONDON 
 
 1920 
 
-pCi'i^^ 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1920, BT 
 
 D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 
 
 PHINTBD IN THB trNITE!D STATES OF AMEBICA 
 
 SS^ 16 }9?0 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CBAFTEB PAOB 
 
 I. Paris of To-day 1 
 
 II. Fashionable Paris — The Madeleine, Place de 
 LA Concorde, and l'Avenub deb Champs 
 Elys^es 8 
 
 III. Intellectual Paris — The Grand Boulevards, 
 
 THE Opera 21 
 
 IV. The Origins op Paris — The City Island, Notre 
 
 Dame, the Sainte Chapelle 32 
 
 V. Royal Paris — The Tuileries, Rue db la Patx, 
 
 the Louvre 48 
 
 VI. Paris op the Exhibitions and Literary Paris — 
 the Trocadero Palace, Napoleon's Tomb, 
 THE Eiffel Tower, the Academies ... 61 
 VII. Paris op the Middle Ages — The Marais, the 
 
 Bastille 72 
 
 VIII. The Art, Gayety and Genius op Paris — The 
 
 Park Monceau, Montmartrb 83 
 
 IX. Aristocratic and Pious Paris — The Luxem- 
 bourg, THE Pantheon, St. Etienne, St. 
 
 SULPICE 91 
 
 X. The Paris op Pleasure — The Bois de Bou- 
 logne, THE Race Courses 105 
 
 XI. The Stomach of Paris — the Central Markets, 
 
 St. Eustache, Memories op the Past . . 112 
 XII. Paris in Danger 119 
 
 XIII. The Paris Homes op Famous Americans . . 125 
 
 XIV. Paris Beyond the Walls 128 
 
 XV. Excursions to the Battlefields .... 142 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 AND THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 PARIS OF TO-DAY 
 
 Next to the delight of visiting a new and inter- 
 esting place oneself for the first time, I know no ex- 
 perience so pleasant as to guide a friend, provided 
 he or she be receptive, interested and enthusiastic, 
 through a town or country which one knows well. 
 iSTot too well, however; there must he a margin left 
 for little discoveries together — for the charm some- 
 times of the unknown amid what one knows — just 
 as one likes to find unexpected traits in one whom 
 one loves and thinks one knows thoroughly. 
 
 So, reader, I shall assume that you do not know 
 Paris, and that I am to guide you in this delightful 
 journey that you are making for the first time — I 
 who know the Queen of cities well, though she still 
 has many and many a surprise for me, as I find out 
 every day. 
 
 Let me presume it is your first visit to Paris then. 
 You have heard of the city all your life as one of 
 the most wonderful places on earth; many of the 
 
 1 
 
PRESENT DAT PARIS 
 
 spots in it are doubtless as well known to you hj 
 name as the places in your native town. Half the 
 best stories in the world are laid partly or wholly 
 in and around Paris, and you cannot have done much 
 reading of ancient or modern things without your 
 mind reverting continually to this city and its great 
 names and its famous sites. 
 
 What, then, will strike you most in Paris when 
 you have been here a few days — what is it that 
 strikes most of us? Eirst and foremost, it will be 
 borne in upon you that this city is made for the 
 pleasure of its inhabitants and visitors. There is 
 everything here for the delight of the eye and the 
 senses. It is a city full of light and light gayety. 
 There is business taking place; there is work being 
 done, but they are being done brightly and philosoph- 
 ically, as if they were the means to living and not 
 the only reason for living. Nor are these things too 
 evident; they are kept in the background, and the 
 pleasantness of life is thrust forward as much as 
 possible. The Parisian tries to keep sombemess 
 and gloom in the background. The city has its 
 shadows and its tragedies, but it is the high lights of 
 the picture that seize and arrest the attention. Look 
 at the crowds in the cafes — ^those cafes which seem 
 never to empty, morning, noon or evening; look at 
 the serried lines of promenaders up and down the 
 boulevards, and at the men and the girls going to 
 and from their work or just amusing themselves (and 
 to judge by appearances these latter are in the ma- 
 
 2 
 
PARIS OF TO-DAY 
 
 joritj). There is no furtiveness, no haste about 
 them — no signs of the struggle for life that one meets 
 with in some great cities. They can look life and 
 the world in the face, for they take it all gayly and 
 jauntily. That is the prevailing atmosphere of 
 Paris. The French power of recuperation is won- 
 derful, as has been proved over and over again in 
 their history. 
 
 i!^apoleon, in one of his pettish moods, said the 
 French were children. This may be so, but they are 
 knowing children, far from the fretfulness of age, 
 and not easily terrified by the problems of existence. 
 
 Another thing that will strike you when you know 
 the French capital a little better is that it is the most 
 modem of cities. Though its origin dates from re- 
 mote antiquity, and though it loves its picturesque 
 past, Paris is intensely up-to-date and of to-day. 
 Every new thought pulsates through, its arteries in 
 one way or another ; every hour of the day new ideas 
 are jostling the old ones and making a way for them- 
 selves. The watchword of the politicians — those that 
 "count" — is the Revolution, and change and sur- 
 prises and the clash of thought make up life here. 
 
 Remember, too, that Paris is France in a far 
 greater degree than you can say that London is Eng- 
 land, or Rome is Italy, or Berlin, Germany, or ISTew 
 York or Chicago or any other city is the United 
 States. Paris is the heart and the brains of the 
 country, although there is such a great and intensive 
 life in many a provincial center. 
 
 3 
 
PRESEIS^T DAY PARIS 
 
 Just as France wants to be loved by her neighbors, 
 so Paris likes to be admired and made much of by 
 those who approach her. She is laid out to attract. 
 You must admire — or not stop here. The prevailing 
 impression is that of a city of pleasure, from the 
 bright clear air (which seems to have been brought 
 here on purpose, and indeed it was for this that the 
 location was chosen by the early builders of Paris, 
 or Lutetia) to the very lamp-posts, which are so 
 graceful and artistic, and the alluring way in which 
 the cafe chairs are arranged. 
 
 The artistic taste of the people strikes you at every 
 turn. You will have noticed the women, whether 
 they be ladies of leisure or working women — did 
 you ever see women that dressed so admirably, not 
 necessarily as regards the richness of their apparel 
 but the way in which it is all worn and the dainti- 
 ness of the details? 
 
 There are few sordid-looking houses, except in one 
 or two of the outlying quarters. The general air of 
 well-being and comfort is accounted for b ythe flat- 
 living habit, as the poor often reside in the same 
 houses as the well-to-do — on the top floors. Of 
 course, there are objectionable features about Paris; 
 you will find them out if you have the critical fac- 
 ulty, but they are quickly and easily passed over in 
 the general impression. 
 
 You will learn a great deal of the history and 
 the art of Paris as you go about your sight-seeing, 
 but your chief business is with the Paris of to-day 
 
 4 
 
PARIS OF TO-DAY 
 
 and her efforts to make your stay within her walls 
 agreeable and profitable. It is not given to everybody 
 who enters M'ithin her walls to do so, but if you are 
 able to come into contact with French people, your 
 stay will be rendered very much more enjoyable, and 
 you will learn a great many things that this little 
 book cannot tell you, and that books about the city 
 never do tell you. You will learn what a nation of 
 artists this people is, and yet how critical they are ; 
 you will learn what a great patriotism and love of 
 their own past beat in the breasts of those who super- 
 ficially seem to think but of the moment; and how 
 their great strength is the family tie. The gi^eat sta- 
 bility of France resides in the country's thoroughly 
 gTounded habits of thrift. ISTothing is ever wasted 
 in this country; and as a wise lady put it to me in 
 conversation once, the waste of one average American 
 family (in pre-war times) would often keep a dozen 
 modest French families. 
 
 There is no city or country where the theater plays 
 so great a part in the life of the people. It is the 
 loading form of amusement (often it joins instruc- 
 tion with pleasure) in which everybody indulges; 
 and nowhere is the theatrical art carried to such a 
 high state of perfection. The French actors and 
 actresses are on the whole the best in the world. Not 
 only are there theatrical performances every day of 
 the week and sometimes twice a day, especially Sun- 
 days, but on National holidays there are free per- 
 formances at the four State-endowed theaters. In 
 
 5 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 summer we have open air performances in some of 
 the parks or chosen suburbs. There are societies for 
 aiding one to go to the theater economically, and 
 theater-going to those who live in the country and 
 know how to go about it, is cheaper than in any 
 other country. 
 
 A word as to the table. The French understand 
 the arts of cooking and of "ministering to the inner 
 man" better than any other people, variety being the 
 kejTQote of their ideas in this respect, and by this I 
 mean the kind of variety that goes with economy. 
 They have dozens or more ways of cooking a potato, 
 and innumerable methods of "doing" an egg. The 
 war has, unfortunately, wrought great changes among 
 the Paris restaurants, and nearly everything that 
 was written about them some years ago is now out-of- 
 date ; but you will try some of them yourself, choos- 
 ing those most suited to your purse, which is easy 
 nowadays, since all ai-e forced by law to put up their 
 prices visibly on the outsides of their establishments. 
 Do not imagine, however, that it is only in the very 
 high-priced houses that you will find good cooking 
 and good wines. 
 
 Finally, remember this — that Paris is the most 
 self-contained and self-satisfied city in the world. A 
 great majority of her citizens know little of and care 
 less for what happens outside her walls; if their 
 thoughts stray to other cities, it is on account of their 
 interest in what Parisians are doing there. Civis 
 Romanus sum is their motto, and it suffices them; 
 
 6 
 
PARIS OF TO-DAY 
 
 tliese walls and a few acres round them contain a 
 cosmos. It is true that for eomo years past the Pari- 
 sian has been gradually if slowly widening his out- 
 look, but it remains, nevertheless, a fact that for him 
 his city is the center of the universe. It was more 
 so than ever during the war, and in these days of 
 victory it is doubly loved from the dangers that were 
 gone through. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 FASHIONABLE tAEIS— THE MADELEINE PLACE DE 
 
 LA CONCOEDE, AND L 'AVENUE DES 
 
 CHAMPS ELYSEES 
 
 A VEEY suitable center from which to begin one's 
 sight-seeing in Paris is the Church of the Madeleine, 
 on the Boulevard of that name. The Madeleine, im- 
 posing outside, with its magnificent lines of pillars, 
 but rather gloomy within, is the most fashionable of 
 Paris churches, and here a good many society wed- 
 dings and other ceremonials take place. A fash- 
 ionable wedding here is often a very picturesque 
 sight, not the least interesting part of which is the 
 crowds of "midinettes" and others who watch. It 
 has had a varied history. In 1806 ISTapoleon decreed 
 that the church should become a temple of glory to 
 commemorate the deeds of the Grand Army. After 
 1815, however — after the battle which changed his- 
 tory and sent the great Emperor into exile, the 
 temple returned to its former purposes of a church. 
 The bronze doors of the church represent the Last 
 Judginent, and there are some fine sculptures inside, 
 as well as an interesting, if rather incoherent, fresco 
 (by Ziegler) over the altar, representing the history 
 of Christianity, which was brought to France by Clo- 
 
 8 
 
FASHIONABLE PARTS 
 
 vis, and introducing ancient and modern personages. 
 Some of the Communards were slaughtered here in 
 1871. 
 
 During the recent war the Madeleine was hit once 
 by a shell from the notorious long-range gun, 
 "Bertha." It was at eight o'clock on the evening of 
 All Saints' day in the summer of 1918, and as that 
 was the first shell fired on that day, it came literally 
 as a ''bolt from the blue," even in those nerve- 
 racking times. The head of a Saint at the back of 
 the church facing the Rue Tronchet was knocked off, 
 as well as portions of the walls and vaulting (the 
 headless Saint can still be seen), while the shell 
 buried itself in the cloister beneath, and hot smok- 
 ing splinters from it were picked up two streets 
 away. 
 
 In the two squares on either side of the church 
 flower markets are held every Tuesday and Friday, 
 and the flower stalls are a beautiful sight at any 
 time of the year, but, of course, more particularly 
 so in spring and early summer. The French are 
 very fond of flowers, and on the eve of eveiy Saints' 
 day it is the custom (as, of course, in all Catholic 
 countries) to carry flowers to those who bear the 
 name. It is their "fete," and the fete day is more 
 celebrated in these countries than the birthday. The 
 flower shops and stalls of Paris in general are among 
 its most attractive sights. At Christmas time you 
 will find the Madeleine market filled with Christ- 
 mas trees, holly and mistletoe, though it is only of 
 
 9 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEJS 
 
 recent yeara that the French have adopted these 
 Ynletide customs, 
 
 ISTow stand with your back to the fagade of the 
 Madeleine, and note the fine sweep >f street in 
 front of you. It ends in another mo- M- 
 
 ing — the French Chamber of D^ 
 House of Parliament, which is on 
 of the Seine. To the right of you there 
 fine sweep of boulevard, ending in the Chur^ 
 Augustine. On the left stretch the v 
 
 vards a distance of two and one-br ^'oift 
 
 Bastille. There are frequent fine 1 
 
 kind in the Paris streets, terminatj. 
 in a monumental building, which differentiates irar- 
 from many other old cities, where j a come ^ 
 historical buildings in comers as if ' 
 This is largely the work of Baron Hau.o. .oiju 
 his successors. 
 
 The Rue Poyale, down which we are now walk- 
 ing, is one of the fashionable stre'et^^ ''' Paris. That 
 first building on the left, now a busiv ie, occu- 
 
 pies the site of a once famous *f-^ e'" Jit, where 
 General Boulanger, the soldier whoL .'.^•dt have been 
 dictator of France, used to meet his friends and 
 adherents. There are several other good class res- 
 taurants in this street, where one can partake of 
 excellent French cooking, and where, :^':' igb the'' are 
 not cheap, one at least gets- »'s £tf ""^ 
 
 one is careful. The middle ' h^ j;. 
 
 cut by the Rue St. Honore aj., ,.a, .g St. 
 
 10 
 
FiSHIONABLE PARIS 
 
 Ilonore, running respectively left and right. Thd 
 Fanbourg waa onco a residential suburb of the 
 French aristocr icy ; that is perhaps why it now con- 
 tains so mam old furniture dealers. A little way 
 dov ■ }tt, Ko. 39, is the British Embassy, 
 
 'go with a fine garden, which was 
 . , ji a.-*rincess Pauline Borghese, sister 
 ; X, and was bought from her by the Duke 
 /iiji^on for the British Government, since 
 • u;" "^ "^used a succession of able Ambassa- 
 'H^ard stayed there more than once, 
 rr^ing and Queen have also resided 
 
 f^ri? nrther on is the Elysee Palace, which is the 
 ■■^\ and prio^te residence of the President of the 
 ■ •/'[•■0 Ministerial Councils are mostly held 
 ik. J ■ fJ^ijofc-me de Pompadour onco resided in this 
 mansion, as did also later the Duchesse de Bourbon, 
 and still later Joachim Murat, Josephine, Louis 
 Bonaparte, thr )uc de Berri and Queen Hortense. 
 It is fi autiful salons, some of which are 
 
 hung witi ' 'obelin tapestries. The Palace is 
 
 separated fj...^. the Champs Elysees by a fine gar- 
 den. 
 
 If we come back to the Rue Royale we find on our 
 right the tavern Maxim's, one of the most famous 
 of i ^e hars " ^d dining and supping places of the 
 id on- . leading center of nocturnal 
 ^ ^ /e' ' ' pensive character. Between 
 
 Maxi I ^ m building at the comer of the 
 
 11 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 Place de la Concorde, the visitor should notice a sim- 
 ple poster on the wall, which is protected to-day by 
 a thick sheet of glass. It is one of the most sacred 
 documents in recent French history, being the order 
 for the mobilization of the French annies in 1914. 
 The big corner building on the left as we enter 
 the Place is the Ministry of Marine. Opposite and 
 a little to the left are the Tuileries Gardens, to 
 which we shall return. 
 
 The Place de la Concorde is perhaps the 
 most beautiful square in Europe and certainly 
 one of the most historical. It was once called Place 
 Louis XV, and if you look on the wall of the corner 
 nearest the Champs Elysees, turning into the little 
 Rue Boissy d'Anglas, you will still see the old in- 
 scription, almost effaced. This building, by the way, 
 was formerly the mansion of one of the great French 
 families; it is now the Hotel Crillon, and during 
 the latter part of the war and the peace negotiations 
 was an American headquarters. Next to it is the 
 Automobile Club de France. . 
 
 In 1770 a terrible event occurred in the Place de 
 la Concorde, which was doubtless at the time and 
 for long afterwards referred to as a presage of evil. 
 At a fireworks display, given to celebrate the mar- 
 riage of the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XVI)' 
 with Marie Antoinette, a panic and stampede took: 
 place, and some twelve hundred people were killed 
 and two thousand injured. Awful presage indeed! 
 It marked the beginning of the ill-feeling against 
 
 12 
 
FASHIOiS^ABLE PARIS 
 
 the "Austrian" Queen. A little over twenty years 
 later the guillotine was erected in the square, then 
 named Place de la Revolution, and not only the 
 King and the beautiful Marie Antoinette lost their 
 heads there, but also Charlotte Corday, Madame 
 Roland ("O Liberty! Liberty! what crimes are com- 
 mitted in thy name!"), Danton, Camille Desmou- 
 lins, Robespierre, and two thousand other people 
 perished here in less than two years. 
 
 The Place was named "de la Concorde" in 1799 ; 
 several times changed, this name was restored in 
 1830, and has been preserved since. Russian and 
 Prussian troops encamped here in 1814, in which 
 year there was held here a service in memory of 
 Louis XVI, attended by three Monarchs; English 
 troops were encamped here the following year, after 
 Waterloo, and Prussian troops were here again in 
 1871, after the capitulation of Paris. During the 
 Commune the Place was the scene of a bloody strug- 
 gle. 
 
 During the recent war the Place and the Ave- 
 nue des Champs Elysees were the scenes of numer- 
 ous martial and patriotic processions and manifesta- 
 tions, in which the troops of all the Allies took part. 
 The first contingent of American troops who came 
 to France under General Pershing received an up- 
 roarious welcome, as they accompanied the "Star- 
 Spangled Banner" across this historic square. But 
 the most stirring of all the sights witnessed here 
 was the march of the Fourteenth of July, 1919 — 
 
PKESENT DAY PAKIS 
 
 the first of the new peace and victory, when all 
 the Allies and their Generals marched through ser- 
 ried, roaring ranks of Parisians. 
 
 The obelisk in the center of the Place was pre- 
 sented to Louis Philippe by Mehemet Ali, of Egypt. 
 Originally from Thebes, it is said to boast the re- 
 spectable age of over three thousand years, and con- 
 sists of a single block of red granite seventy-six feet 
 high, weighing two hundred and forty tons. The 
 beautiful fountains are copied after those at St. 
 Peter's, Pome; the one on the south side is dedi- 
 cated to the seas, that on the north, to the rivers. 
 
 Besides military demonstrations, the Place de la 
 Concorde has always been the scene of interesting 
 patriotic manifestations. Of the eight statues round 
 the square, representing the chief Erench cities, the 
 first two on the left are the most interesting (they 
 are, curiously enough, both by Pradier). The sec- 
 ond one is Strasbourg, which was in the hands 
 of the Germans from 1871 until the end of the 
 present war, when Alsace reverted to Erance, and 
 during all that time the statue was covered with 
 crape and bunting and wreaths. During the great 
 war Lille, the capital of Erench Elanders, shared 
 the same fate as its sister, and the first statue on the 
 left, dedicated to that city, was invested with the 
 same pathetic interest. The wreaths were placed 
 on the statues by patriotic societies on various anni- 
 versaries, such as the Eourteenth of July. These 
 emblems were taken down when the cities were re- 
 
 14 
 
FASHIONABLE PARIS 
 
 stored to the French people. On July 14, 1918, 
 and the succeeding days, booths were opened beside 
 the statues for the sale of i^ational Defense bonds, 
 and a wonderfully brisk business was done. 
 
 ''Qui vive? France, quand meme!" a notable ut- 
 terance of the patriot Deroulede, was the inscription 
 which for years hung on the Strasbourg monument, 
 and now that France has come victorious out of the 
 great and terrible struggle one realizes its truth in- 
 deed. Truly France lives, more superbly than ever ! 
 
 Turning towards the Champs Elysees (or Elysian 
 Fields), look now up to the Arc de Triomphe. What 
 a splendid triumphal route ! The Avenue is one and 
 one-third miles in leng-th, and the name was given to 
 it in the seventeenth century, those gallant days of 
 musketeers and swashbucklers, when they loved so- 
 norous names. It has always been the favorite prom- 
 enade of Parisians, and small wonder. On a fine 
 spring day, when the "elegant equipages," as the 
 last generation used to call them, roll up the Avenue 
 to the race courses, the sight is a very inspiring one. 
 On the first Fourteenth of July after the outbreak 
 of the war the ashes of Eouget de Lisle, the composer 
 of the national hymn, *'La Marseillaise," were 
 brought down the Avenue en route for the Pantheon, 
 the President and all the great ofiicers of State ac- 
 companying in a solemn procession. 
 
 Before proceeding up the Champs Elysees, we 
 must go and stand on the Concorde Bridge and look 
 up and down the Seine. The view from this bridge, 
 
 15 
 
PEESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 with the Eiffel Tower on the one side and the distant 
 pinnacles of Notre Dame and other landmarks of 
 old Paris on the other, is one of the wonders of the 
 world. No matter at what time of the day you 
 contemplate it, whether in the early morning in the 
 full blaze of the midda}^ sun, or in the evening, when 
 the bluish gray mists creep up the river, or once 
 again at night, when the lights of heaven are re- 
 flected in the waters, and the dimmer diadems of 
 the bridges stand in ranks one after another like 
 ghostly courtiers, the scene is always full of beauty 
 and fascination. 
 
 Opposite you is the Chamber of Deputies, the 
 fagade of which, somewhat more recent than the rest 
 of the building, looks like a replica of the Madeleine 
 facing it. The original name of the building is the 
 Palais Bourbon, and it dates from 1Y22. It was 
 confiscated in 1790, but restored to the Prince de 
 Conde in 1814, and afterwards purchased by the 
 Government. Around it are statues of gi-eat men 
 and of the goddesses whose qualities they are sup- 
 posed to have possessed. The Chamber of Deputies 
 is not as imposing to look at as either St. Stephen's, 
 at Westminster, London, or the Capitol at Washing- 
 ton, but as weighty and thrilling problems have been, 
 settled within its walls during the past century, and 
 many illustrious men have sat on its benches. The 
 Palace can be visited when the Chamber is not in 
 session; or when it is, by asking a deputy for a 
 ticket of admission. 
 
 16 
 
FASHIONABLE PARIS 
 
 Retracing one's steps and going up the Champs 
 Elysees, the visitor's attention is first of all arrested 
 by the two famous statues of horses by Coustou flank- 
 ing it on either side. They are known as the "Marly 
 Horses," as they came from Louis XIV's Chateau at 
 ^larly, which was destroyed during the Revolution. 
 On either side, but particularly on the right, are a 
 number of summer restaurants and music halls — 
 Les Ambassadeurs and Alcazar (R), Jardin de Paris 
 (L), etc. I would draw your attention particularly 
 to one statue on the right among the trees as you go 
 up the Avenue — that of Alphonse Daudet, the 
 famous writer, because it is such a charming ex- 
 ample of the French sculptor's art. What a delight- 
 ful fellow and what a gentleman Daudet looks, just 
 as if he were going to receive you in his salon I 
 Daudet has been called the Dickens of France, and, 
 as a rough comparison, it is good enough, although 
 he is extremely different from the English man of 
 genius. Nothing more charming than some of his 
 stories has ever appeared in the French language, 
 and those who have not read the "Pope's Mule" have 
 missed one of the choicest stories in the world, while 
 his praise of onion soup can be placed beside Thack- 
 eray's praise of "Bouillabaise." 
 
 Nor must I omit to mention the children's play- 
 ground in the Champs Elysees — the excellent sand 
 heaps and the goat carriages, the vendors of hoops 
 and gingerbread, and, above all, the Guignol, or 
 Punch and Judy Show. Guignol is a great insti- 
 
 17 
 
PEESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 tution in France, and considerable talent is employed 
 in devising programs for the youthful auditors and 
 their attendants. During the war Guignol was 
 quite warlike and patriotic. 
 
 The two imposing buildings we now come to — 
 the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais — were built 
 for the 1900 Exhibition. In the larger one, adorned 
 with bronze groiTps, friezes, and other sculptural deco- 
 rations, are held at various times of the year the 
 different art salons, as well as automobile and avia- 
 tion salons and horse shows. During the war this 
 big building was a hospital, and in one wing there 
 was established a school, with workshops, for the 
 training of men disabled in the war, an institution 
 established by representative members of the for- 
 eign colonies of the city. The picture salons were 
 held as far back as 1673 (though not, of course, in 
 this building) and were always a social function, for 
 all Erench people are more or less connoisseurs in 
 art matters. The Petit Palais is mostly devoted to 
 art collections belonging to the city of Paris. 
 
 Let us pause to admire the magnificent Alexander 
 III Bridge, which was erected as a memorial of the 
 visit to Paris of that Czar and of France's alliance 
 with Russia. The bridge has proved the more dura- 
 ble of the two. The first stone was laid by ^Nicholas 
 II in 1896. Beyond it are the Esplanade des In- 
 valides and Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 Up to this part of the Avenue des Champs Elysees, 
 it is flanked on either side by two other avenues — on 
 
 18 
 
FASHIONABLE PARIS 
 
 the left, besido tlio river, the Cours la Heine (made 
 by order of Queeu Marie de Medicis in IGIO) and 
 on tlie right the Avenue Gabriel, which ends beside 
 the back entrance of the garden of the Elysees Pal- 
 ace (note the Gallic cock on the gate) and the Ave- 
 nue Marigny. We pass, too, the Theatre Marigny, 
 and come to the Eond-Point des Champs Elysees. 
 
 The large hotels in the upper part of the Champs 
 Elysees and the few large business establishments 
 date from only a few years back. Before then there 
 were only residences amid the trees, some of them 
 veritable mansions. The Avenue Montaigne, on our 
 left as we continue the ascent, used to be called the 
 "Alley of the Widows." About the time of the Revo- 
 lution Madame Tallien's country house was out here. 
 Some of the streets in this neighborhood were re- 
 named during the war after the rulers of Allied 
 countries. 
 
 If we are minded to go a little way down the Ave- 
 nue d'xlutin, we shall come to Rue Jean Coujon, 
 where there ^s the Chapel of the Charity Bazaar, 
 erected in memory of that terrible tragedy when so 
 many people lost their lives in the bazaar fire on this 
 spot. 
 
 We are now at the Arc do Triomphe, designed 
 in 1806 for Napoleon I and completed in 1838 un- 
 der Louis Philippe. The cost was some 10,000,000 
 francs. The sculpture and inscriptions record the 
 triumphs of the great Emperor. The finest of these 
 groups is held by connc'eseurs to be the one on the 
 
 19 
 
PKESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 right-hand side as we face the monument — the "De- 
 parture of Troops" (1792), by Eude. A fine view 
 is to be had from the top of the monument. In May, 
 1885, the body of Victor Hugo, the great poet, hiy 
 for twenty-four hours in state under the arch, the 
 coffin being covered with a pall of black and silver 
 and royal purple, after which, amid a nation's 
 mourning, it was conveyed to the Pantheon for 
 burial. The victorious troops marched under the 
 arch on July 14, 1919, and for that purpose the 
 iron chains and posts were removed for the first time 
 for many years. 
 
 The place here is known as the Place de I'Etoile, 
 because it is the center of a star of avenues radiating 
 to various parts of the city. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 INTELLECTUAL PARIS— THE GRAND BOULEVARDS, 
 THE OPERA 
 
 Start again from the Madeleine, which is the be- 
 ginning of the Grand Boulevards. These boulevards 
 once marked the northern limit of the city, but the 
 moats were filled up in Louis XIV's time. Though 
 really a continuous thoroughfare, the Boulevard 
 changes its name frequently. 
 
 The Boulevard des Capucins is so called from a 
 convent of Capuchin monks that once existed here; 
 the Boulevard des Italiens, after the Italian players 
 who were the rage in Paris in the eighteenth century. 
 On the Boulevard des Capucins (right) is the small 
 Theatre des Capucins, which is famous as the home 
 of the typically Parisian light comedy (the late 
 King Edward of England was a frequenter during 
 his visits to Paris). Presently we come to the Grand 
 Opera in the Place de I'Opera — the most superb mod- 
 ern building in Paris, which cost thirty-seven million 
 francs to build. Begun in 1861, it was finished in 
 1874 from the designs of Charles Gamier, the archi- 
 tect also of the Casino and Theater of Monte Carlo. 
 There is a gilt bust of him on the left side. There 
 are some 'fine groups of statuary around the building, 
 
 21 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 representing Lyric poetry, Idyllic poetry, Music, 
 Declamation, Song, Drama, and so on, but the finest 
 of all is the Dance, by Carpeaux, the last group on 
 the further side from us as we approach from the 
 Madeleine. This group superbly breathes the spirit 
 of the joie de vivre, as the ancient world understood 
 it. The Opera building also contains a notable musi- 
 cal library. 
 
 If the outside of the Opera is superb, the inside, 
 especially the grand staircase, is a masterpiece of 
 elegant luxury. The steps are of white marble, and 
 the handrail of Algerian onyx. The ceiling frescoes 
 represent the gods of Olympus, while in the foyer 
 there are fine paintings and mosaics. In the two 
 years before the war the famous Carnival balls were 
 revived at the Opera, after having lapsed for many 
 years. The real spirit of the Carnival was, however, 
 it must be confessed, either absent or very much dis- 
 tracted by other thoughts on those occasions; the 
 rumblings of the coming storm were, I suppose, 
 already audible in the distance. Perhaps the fur- 
 ther revival which is now promised will bring back 
 a little of the old spirit. 
 
 This magnificent building is more than a sim- 
 ple opera house, for it is the headquarters of the 
 National Academy of Music and Dance, under the 
 direct orders of the Undersecretary of Pine Arts, 
 for, as the visitor need hardly be reminded, the 
 French State encourages these 5^*ts and subsidizes 
 
 22 
 
INTELLECTUAL PARIS 
 
 tliem in a way that is unknown in Anglo-Saxon 
 countries. 
 
 Standing with your back to the Opera, you look 
 down tho Avenue do I'Opera, a handsome thorough- 
 fare with fine shops, which was built for the Exhi- 
 bition of 187S, and to repair the damage that had 
 been caused by the Commune. At the other end of 
 the street is the Theatre Frangais, the leading classi- 
 cal theater in Erance, which is also called the 
 "House of Moliere," as it continues the traditions 
 of the great dramatist. It was partly destroyed by 
 fire in 1900, but was rebuilt on the old plan. It is 
 governed by the decree of Moscow instituted by 
 Napoleon I (1812). An evening at this theater lis- 
 tening to one of Moliere's comedies or a piece by 
 some other of the great classical authors is (always 
 provided you are fond of the theater) a treat not 
 easily forgotten. 
 
 The comer on the right of the Place de I'Opera 
 and the boulevard from which we have just issued 
 is taken by the Cafe de la Paix, the most celebrated 
 cafe even in Paris. Its rent, as may well be imag- 
 ined, amounts to quite a fortune. No visit to Paris 
 can be considered complete unless one has sat at a 
 table on the "terrace" of this cafe for an hour be- 
 fore dinner or after and watched the crowd pass to 
 and fro. It has been said that if one sits here long 
 enough one will see everybody one knows pass; and 
 I understand there are people who have proved the 
 truth of the saying ! Certainly, though I have never 
 
 23 
 
PEESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 gone in for the pastime at all diligently, I have seen 
 nearly everybody of note in Paris pass or sit here 
 at one time or another (great manufacturers, fash- 
 ionable people from all over the world, artists, 
 ■writers, statesmen, and the people one talks about), 
 as well, of course, as a gi-eat number of no note at 
 all. Between the Cafe and the Avenue de I'Opera 
 is the entrance to Rue de la Paix, the ladies' para- 
 dise. Around us are numerous large banking estab- 
 [lishments, and the Banque de Prance is close by on 
 the left, in one of the streets running off the Ave- 
 nue de I'Opera. Indeed we are in the quarter of 
 "high finance." The Rue du Quatre Septembre, 
 running off on the left, is a thriving business thor- 
 oughfare. 
 
 -; Let us continue along the boulevards. Here is 
 the Paris of cafes and theaters. For many Pari- 
 sians, as I have said above, all the world that mat- 
 ters is contained in these few streets. Between these 
 boulevards and Montmartre hundreds and thousands 
 of Parisians have lived and had their being and 
 died, and known little or nothing beyond (for until 
 quite recent years Parisians were poor travelers). 
 ! On the left we come to the Vaudeville Theater, 
 where many of the younger Dumas' and other cele- 
 brated plays were first produced, and hundreds of 
 famous actors and actresses have appeared. On 
 the opposite side of the road is the Cafe Napolitaine, 
 once a famous resort of authors, dramatists and wits 
 (a few of them still patronize it). The Pavilion de 
 
 24 
 
INTELLECTUAL PARIS 
 
 Ilanovre, now a shop, was built for his own pleasure 
 by the Marquis de Saxe. Bits of famous old-time 
 Paris have disappeared within recent years in the 
 improvements that have been made hereabouts. The 
 large new building on the corner of the Rue Mari- 
 vaux occupies the site of the Cafe Anglais, which 
 until a few years ago was a resort of epicures from 
 all over the world. King Edward always frequented 
 the place when in Paris. Almost opposite on the 
 other side of the road a post-office now occupies the 
 site of the equally famous Maison Doree, which was 
 in its glory in the time of the Duke of Hamilton 
 and his brother "bloods." A gruesome story goes 
 that the Duke's body, after his death and according 
 to his wish, was seated at a table at the Maison Do- 
 ree as a sort of farewell to the scenes of his earthly 
 enjoyments! But the heyday of these and other 
 resorts was before 1870 ; after that fatal year a gloom 
 fell upon Paris and the Parisians, which is not yet 
 entirely lifted. 
 
 Hereabouts, too, is newspaper land — that is to 
 say, the head offices of numbers of the important 
 French newspapers will be found on the boulevards, 
 as well as the Paris offices of British and American 
 papers whose names are household words in the 
 countries from which we Anglo-Saxons come. 
 
 Look up the Rue Laffitte, on your left, at the 
 charming vision of the Church of the Sacred Heart 
 on top of Montmartre. It looks almost like a fairy 
 structure in its dazzling white vesture, and this 
 
 25 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 aery vision is to be obtained from various parts of 
 the city — a quaint but fitting symbol of the faith of 
 this Voltairian city, for Paris is full of contradic- 
 tions. 
 
 At the corner of the Rue Drouot is the office of 
 the Gaulois newspaper, like a watch tower, just as 
 if the director, Arthur Meyer (one of the remark- 
 able men of the Paris that is passing) and his staff 
 watch from their windows and relate what they see 
 (which in a way is more or less the case). A little 
 way down the Rue Drouot is the office of that other 
 newspaper, the Figaro, where a tragedy occurred 
 about a year before the war broke out which had 
 tremendous repercussions. It was in that office that 
 the editor, Gaston Calmette, was shot dead by the 
 wife of a former Prime Minister of France, M. Cail- 
 laux; and her acquittal by a jury in July, 1914, led 
 to the most remarkable scenes that have been wit- 
 nessed in Paris for many years — all suddenly stopped 
 in an instant by the one terrible word, "War !" In 
 the Rue Drouot, also, are the public salesrooms for 
 pictures, furniture, jewelry, etc. 
 
 On the other side of the Boulevard, between the 
 Rues Marivaux and Favaii;, is the Opera Comique, 
 one of the State-endowed theaters. Those who know 
 something of French art and literature will note 
 with interest the names of the streets. Favart was 
 the creator of modern opera comique, and his wife 
 Was a celebrated actress. You would never guess 
 why the front of the Opera Comique is not on the 
 
 26 
 
INTELLECTUAL PARIS 
 
 Boulevard. Because the "Comedians of the King" 
 in 1782, when the place was hciug built, insisted 
 upon this being done, as they refused to be con- 
 founded with the ordinary comedians of the Boule- 
 vard. The Opera Comique is a new building since 
 the terrible fire of 1887. 
 
 Down the Rue Vivienne, on our right, we come 
 iu a few steps to the Bourse, or Stock Exchange. 
 As regards architecture, it is an imitation of the 
 Temple of Vespasian in the Eorum at Rome. (Those 
 who remember something of the private life of this 
 Emperor may perhaps see some connection between 
 him and Mammon!) There is little of interest 
 about the Bourse except the strident activities of the 
 brokers. 
 
 The Rue Richelieu, which begins here, terminates 
 at the Theatre Frangais. In the middle of it is the 
 Bibliotheque Rationale, or ISTational Library, in- 
 stalled in the ' former home of Cardinal Mazarin. 
 The collection of books was begun by Louis XI, and 
 numbers of the Monarchs added to it, especially the 
 Louis XIV and Louis XV. It was also added to 
 in Revolutionary times, when the monasteries were 
 suppressed. The Library contains some 3,000,000 
 volumes, besides illuminated and other manuscripts 
 and engravings. Moliere died at No. 40, Rue de 
 Richelieu. The fine monument to him is worth in- 
 specting. In the same street (No. 50) lived the 
 parents of La Pompadour (named Poisson). 
 
 A few steps further we reach the Boulevard 
 27 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 Montmaxtre, where again there are numerous cafes 
 and restaurants. At the corner of the Rue du Fau- 
 bourg Poissonniere is the office of the Matin news- 
 paper, the first of the Paris journals to copy Anglo- 
 American methods of journalism; indeed, it is an 
 K)ffshoot of an Anglo-American newspaper, The Paris 
 MofTiing News, which existed some twenty-five to 
 thirty years ago. 
 
 The Cardinal is another cafe where history has 
 been made. The Theatre des Varietes was the home 
 of comic opera and has had a brilliant past. The 
 music of Offenbach, produced here for a period of 
 twenty years, caused a greater craze than did ever 
 the Viennese opera of more recent years. When the 
 theater was built about the first decade of last cen- 
 tury it was considered to be a most inappropriate 
 place, as it was almost in the country, for this and 
 the next Boulevard (Bonne Nouvelle) were lined 
 with shade trees, making them almost a park. 
 
 Marguery's, on the Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, was 
 another home of epicures, and Marguery's method of 
 cooking soles has been imitated all over the world. 
 This restaurant is still a favorite of business people, 
 but it is no longer so interesting as in the days when 
 M. Marguery himself used to come around to every 
 guest's table and ask if he were satisfied. Next 
 door is the Gymnase Theatre. 
 
 Forming the junction of this boulevard and that 
 of St. Louis is the Porte (or Gate) of St. Denis, 
 which was erected in 1671, in place of the ancient 
 
 28 
 
INTELLECTUAL PARIS 
 
 castellated gate, to commemorate Louis XIV's vic- 
 tories in Holland and the Lower Rhine. The bas- 
 reliefs above the archway represent the passage of 
 the Rhine. Beyond this gate the road to St. Denis 
 was onco a highway for pilgrims. Boulevard St. 
 Denis is intersected a little further on by Boulevar'3 
 de Sebastopol, which runs towards the Seine, aid 
 by Boulevard de Strasbourg, which goes to the Garo 
 de I'Est (Eastern of France Railway station). On 
 this latter boulevard is the Antoine Theatre, where 
 most of the modern plays of the Theatre Libre type 
 have been produced. 
 
 The Porte St. Martin is another triumphal arch, 
 erected in 1674 by the city of Paris, in honor of 
 Louis XIV. There are three theaters on the boule- 
 vard of this name (there used to be more) — the 
 Renaissance, Porte St. Martin, and Ambigu, each of 
 which usually keeps to its own genre more or less. 
 The chief life and movement in this neighborhood 
 are in the evenings. When the theaters are empty- 
 ing, the streets fill with a gay, agitated throng; the 
 cafes fill up, newspapers cry their wares, which no- 
 body any more cares much about for that particular 
 evening, and ragamuffins hail cabs, for which there 
 is always a rather undignified scramble, ladies in 
 evening dress being bundled into them with various 
 little screams and exclamations, while the night air 
 is filled with the mingled aroma of Rue de la Paix 
 perfumes and cigarettes. 
 
 We can finish our present walk at the Place de la 
 29- 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 RepubKqua The statue of the Republic in the cen- 
 ter was erected in 1883. The three seated figures 
 are Liberty, Fraternity, and Equality; Dalou's bas- 
 reliefs in bronze represent prominent events in the 
 history of the Republic. There is an English music 
 hall (the Alhambra) in the Rue de Malte, off this 
 squara 
 
 From the Metropolitan (underground) station in 
 the Place de la Republique one can get to most parts 
 of the city, but an excellent way of returning to the 
 center is by the Madeleine-Bastille omnibus, which 
 goes along the boulevards through which we have 
 just come. Unfortunately the old "imperiale" or 
 top seats, from which one could get such a good view 
 of the busy life of the city, have been done .away 
 with with the advent of the motor-omnibus. ! 
 
 A word as to French cafes. The first cafe in 
 Europe was established in Marseilles, on an Eastern 
 model; and these institutions became quickly so 
 popular on account of the absence of clubs. Even 
 to-day there are very few clubs in Paris, partly be- 
 cause the male club, without female society, would 
 never appeal to French tastes, and also because such 
 clubs as exist are very expensive, clubs being always 
 associated in the French mind with gambling, for 
 which reason the Government puts a very heavy tax 
 on them. , 
 
 Therefore the Frenchman's, and especially the 
 Parisian's, cafe is his club, and most keep to their 
 favorite houses, for there are fashions in cafes. The 
 
 30 
 
INTELLECTUAL PAEIS 
 
 usiest and most popular cafes are as a rule on the 
 left of the houlevards going from the Opera; these 
 are crowded day and night. Those on the other side 
 of the thoroughfare are devoted to special coteries. 
 The famous Cafe Tortoni, which in the early days 
 of the nineteenth century was a resort of rank and 
 fashion and pleasure, was on the Boulevard des 
 Italiens. Famous for its ices, said to have been the 
 finest of their kind ever tasted, it was the rendez- 
 vous of all that was gay and — wicked! At brealc- 
 fast time it was the gathering-place of duelists and 
 retired officers and fire-eaters. Tortoni, the Italian 
 founder, amassed a huge fortune, but ended his days 
 by committing suicide in the heyday of his popu- 
 larity. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 THE OEIGINS OF PAKIS— THE CITY ISLAND, NOTBE 
 DAME, THE SAINTE CHAPELLE 
 
 For this promenade we go back to the dim and 
 distant origin of Paris, when long before the Roman 
 invasion it was founded on the island city on the 
 Seine. The city was begun on this He de la Cite 
 more than two thousand years ago by a tribe of 
 Gauls called Parisii. The city was called Lutetia 
 by the Romans, who built a palace here. Under 
 Julian the Apostate, who was fond of the place, the 
 name was changed to Paris (or rather Parisea 
 Civitas, from which the other name naturally grew). 
 The Royal residence was fixed here by Hugh Capet. 
 In the fourth century the city was still confined to 
 the island and was protected by a fortified wall (the 
 remains of which were laid bare in 1829). The He 
 de la Cite is shaped like a boat, with its prow down 
 stream; whence the heraldic device of Paris is a 
 boat. Up to the seventeenth century Paris was 
 divided in the popular mind into three parts: the 
 town (or Right bank), the University (or Left bank) 
 and the Cite. 
 
 The Pont "N^euf, or New Bridge, which is really 
 the oldest in the city, is thrown across the bows of 
 
 32 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PARIS 
 
 the boat island. The bridge was begun in 1587, and 
 finished in 1603, when that spectacular King Henri 
 IV reigned. It was remodeled in 1852. 
 
 On the tongue of land between the two sections of 
 the bridge is the statue of Henri IV himself, King 
 of France and Navarre. Originally erected by his 
 son Louis XIII, the first statue was destroyed at the 
 Revolution. The present statue, placed here at the 
 Restoration of the Monarchy by Louis XVIII, was 
 cast from the bronze of the figure of Napoleon I 
 removed from the Vendome Column in 1814. 
 
 In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, those 
 years of transition in the annals of Paris and France, 
 the Pont Neuf was a gossiping place in vogue with 
 gallant squires and courtly dames — as well, to be 
 sure, of persons of lesser degree — and the favorite 
 market place of ambulant adventurers, merchants, 
 mountebanks and "camelots." Like London Bridge 
 in olden times, the Pont Neuf was half covered with 
 shops of fancy goods dealers, such as you see at the 
 fairs to-day. 
 
 The thoroughfare taken by Royal processions 
 when the King went to open Parliament, the history 
 of this bridge is the history of Paris. A seventeenth 
 century saying went that no one could cross the 
 bridge without meeting a monk, a white horse, and 
 two charming women. 
 
 "The boat city, in the middle of the river," says 
 M. Gabriel Hanotaux, in his book. La France en 
 16H, "was attached to the right and left banks by 
 
 33 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 double and triple moorings — the bridges, namely, 
 Pont Saint-Michel and Petit Pont, on one side; on 
 the other, Pont-aux-Marchands, Pont-au-Change, 
 Pont Notre-Dame, all of which were over and over 
 again destroyed, carried away by sudden rushes of 
 water, and over and over again hastily rebuilt. With 
 their roadways like an ass's back and covered as 
 they were with buildings, they were usually very 
 difficult of access." 
 
 A fine view is obtained from the Pont Neuf look- 
 ing down stream — the mass of the Louvre, nearly 
 half a mile long, on the ISTorth bank, and a little 
 nearer to one the two towers of St. Germain I'Auxer- 
 rois, the nearer square one being that from which 
 the sinister bell rang out to announce the beginning 
 of the butchery of St. Bartholomew on August 24, 
 1572. The iron foot-bridge nearest down stream is 
 the Pont des Arts, leading from the Louvre to the 
 Institut de France. There are two other bridges 
 beyond — Pont du Carrousel and Pont Royal. 
 
 'Now turn and look up stream. On the right is 
 the Palais de Justice with its pointed towers, while 
 the gilded vane and spire showing over the inter- 
 vening buildings is the Sainte Chapelle. The stone 
 bridge is the Pont au Change (Bridge of the Money- 
 lenders), leading from the island to the Place du 
 Chatelet. Above the roof of the nearer of the two 
 theaters which this Place contains can be seen the 
 summit of the Tour St. Jacques; beyond the other 
 (the Sarah Bernhardt Theatre) rises the cupola of 
 
 34 
 
TELE ORIGINS OF PAEIS 
 
 tho Hotel de Ville, and beyond that the curved sum- 
 mit of the Church of St. Gervais. 
 
 Standms: with your back to Henri IV's statue, 
 you can sec in front of you between two blocks of 
 seventeenth century houses, tho Place Dauphine. 
 Enter this place and you can imagine yourself in 
 early seventeenth century Paris. King Henri IV's 
 garden once occupied this site. Walk through the 
 Rue de Harlay, and the building opposite is the 
 Western fagade of the Palais de Justice. Turn left 
 on to the Quai de I'Horloge (Clock Tower quay). 
 On your left is the Pont Neuf. Turn to the right 
 and walk on the parapet side of the quay. The 
 building on the right with the pointed towers is the 
 famous Conciergerie, part of the Hall of Justice — 
 so called because in the fourteenth century it was 
 the residence of the Concierge, a high functionary 
 of the King's Parliament. In later times it became 
 a prison. 
 
 In the Conciergerie the chief victims of the Terror 
 passed their last days before being removed for ex- 
 ecution. Among them were Queen Marie Antoinette, 
 Madame Roland (whose husband killed himself on 
 hearing of her execution), Danton, the Revolution- 
 ary leader accused by his colleagues of a leaning 
 towards moderation; Madame du Barry, Madame 
 Rocamier, Robespierre, the extremist (Carlyle's 
 "Sea-green Incorruptible"), Malesherbes, the coun- 
 sel who defended the King at his trial, and some 
 three thousand others. 
 
 35 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 On your left again is tlie Pont au Change, and 
 looking across it one has a good view of the Tour 
 St. Jacques. The earliest bridge on this site was 
 erected in the twelfth century, but the present struc- 
 ture is of 1858. 
 
 Leave this bridge and turn down the Boulevard 
 du Palais past the Clock Tower (or Tour de I'Hor- 
 loge), which was built in 1370 (some authorities say 
 1298). Ear from looking its age, the Clock Tower 
 has been kept in repair with a consummate art that 
 has not changed its style or character. It is prob- 
 ably the oldest clock in France. At the opposite 
 corner of the street is the Tribunal of Commerce. 
 A few yards further on and we come to the great 
 iron gates of the Palais de Justice, opening on to the 
 Cour de Mai, so-called from the Maypole which was 
 planted here annually in olden times by the law 
 students. The buffet-restaurant (for the use of 
 those engaged in the law courts) occupies the site of 
 what in the days of the Terror was the entrance to 
 and exit from the Conciergerie prison; in the Cour 
 de Mai were stationed the tumbrils that received 
 the loads of men and women for deportation to the 
 place of execution. 
 
 The steps lead up to the Galerie Marchande, and 
 from thence to the Salle des Pas-Perdus and to the 
 various courts. Many a famous case has been tried 
 in these courts in past times and recent, for it has 
 been a court of justice since the beginning of civil- 
 ization. 
 
 36 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PARIS 
 
 Where the Palais de Justice stands to-day waa 
 once the residence of the Roman governors of Lu- 
 tetia. King Robert the Pious built a great palace 
 here in the eleventh century, and it continued to be 
 the residence of the French Monarchs down to the 
 time of Charles VII (1422). But this King trans- 
 ferred his court to the Palais des Tournelles, which 
 his father, Charles VI, had constructed near to the 
 Bastille (built by Charles V). From time to time 
 the Palace has been added to ; it has suffered several 
 conflagrations, and the style of architecture has been 
 modified by successive designers. But much of it 
 remains as it was originally, and especially is this 
 the case with regard to that wonderful example of 
 Gothic architecture (one of the finest in existence), 
 Louis XI's chapel, known as the Sainte Chapelle. 
 It was erected in 1245 (about forty years after the 
 English lost Normandy and thirty after King John 
 had signed the Great Charter) as a domestic chapel 
 for his palace, being specially designed to receive the 
 Crown of Thorns purchased by Louis from Baldwin, 
 Emperor of the East at Constantinople. (The relic 
 is now preserved in the sacristy of Notre Dame.) 
 
 Even to-day this jewel breathes the ecstatic piety 
 of the mystical Crusader King, who was revered 
 almost equally by Christians and Mussulmans. The 
 Saint© Chapelle is quaint in that it consists of two 
 parts, an upper part for the Royal family and the 
 Court and a lower one for the domestics (remember 
 that in Louis' time the chapel was approached from 
 
 37 
 
PKESENT DAY PAKIS 
 
 the corridors of the Palace, which are now only ex- 
 ceptionally opened to visitors). There is endless 
 detail here to keep the visitor entranced. Note the 
 decorations which repeat the Crown of Thorns and 
 the Cross, with other religious emblems, mingling 
 with the Royal lilies and the castles of Castillo, in 
 honor of Blanche of Castille, Louis' mother. The 
 tabernacle, now empty, once contained the sacred 
 relics as well as the skull of St. Louis. At one time 
 all maladies were supposed to be cured through the 
 virtues of the holy relics, and on Good Fridays espe- 
 cially epileptics and others resorted to the Chapel 
 and filled it. Extraordinary scenes are recorded by 
 some of the contemporary historians, and finally so 
 scandalous had the whole thing become that Louis 
 XVI stopped the exhibitions of the relics. The 
 treasury of this little church, consisting of images, 
 vessels, reliquaries, crosses, etc., was extraordinarily 
 rich. 
 
 "The first thing that strikes the visitor," says 
 Mrs. Beale, that very notable guide to the churches 
 of Paris, "upon entering is the enormous size of the 
 windows, which occupy the entire space between the 
 buttresses and rise to the base of the roof. All the 
 weight of the vaulting rests, therefore, upon the ex- 
 terior buttresses, but not the slightest inflection has 
 ever taken place. The church is built truly east and 
 west, the entrance to each chapel being by separate 
 portals. The only modification the exterior of the 
 building has sustained since St. Louis' time is the 
 
 38 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PAEIS 
 
 addition of a littlo oratory attributed to Louis XI, 
 and the rebuilding of a part of the fagade in the 
 fifteenth century." 
 
 The only communication between the lower and 
 upper chapels at the present time is by means of 
 the small turret staircase, but formerly the upper 
 church was approached by a wide exterior flight of 
 forty-four steps. This flight, rebuilt a number of 
 times, was finally demolished in the last century. 
 
 "The upper chapel," says Mrs. Beale again, "is 
 one of those buildings which one never tires of ad- 
 miring. When we wend our way up the turret 
 stairs, and enter it from the semidarkness of the 
 crypt, it strikes us as the most exquisite scheme of 
 color imaginable. Add to the beauty of the chapel 
 all the associations which crowd upon the memory 
 (it is hardly worth inspecting any old building un- 
 less one does this, indeed) — St. Louis' beautiful 
 faith and noble life, his enthusiasm for God's work 
 and man's welfare; all the ceremonies and the pro- 
 cessions which have taken place there, with the 
 lights, the flowers and the incense, and our imagina- 
 tion forms a picture which no hand could adequately 
 paint. The chapel is composed of four bays for the 
 nave, and seven smaller for the apse. The vault is 
 groined and is supported by clustered columns and 
 capitals ornamented with foliage. The windows 
 occupy the entire space between the supporting pil- 
 lars and are filled with the most beautiful stained 
 glass [and the author I am quoting reminds us that 
 
 39 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 there is an old French proverb which speaks of 
 "wine of the color of the windows of Sainte 
 Chapelle"], while below is an arcade rising from a 
 stone seat. The capitals of the columns are most 
 exquisitely carved in imitation of the flora of France, 
 and the quatrefoils between the arches are filled with 
 a kind of decoration which is as rare as it is effective. 
 Between the arches of the arcades are Angels with 
 outstretched arms, who seem to be crowning the mar- 
 tyrs in the quatrefoils. At the third bay of the nave 
 on each side are recesses which formed reserved 
 places for some privileged persons during mass, and 
 it is thought that they were probably occupied by 
 the King and Queen, the former on the Gospel, the 
 latter on the Epistle side. On the south wall is a 
 slanting recess, which must formerly have served as 
 a chapel, as there was an altar at the end of it hav- 
 ing a painted reredos representing the interior of 
 the great chasse, with all its contents ranged in 
 proper order and St. Louis praying before it. It is 
 supposed that Louis XI may have used this niche as 
 a place where he could pray without being seen, but 
 in sight of the altar and the relics" — when he went 
 in fear of assassination, say others. 
 
 Passing out through the courtyard and into the 
 street again, one finds opposite one the central sta- 
 tion of the Paris fire brigade and Paris Guard. At 
 each gate is a sentinel — one in the garb of the mili- 
 tary police and the other (helmeted) in the uniform 
 of the firemen (or "pompiers"). 
 
 40 
 
TIIE ORIGmS OF PAEIS 
 
 Turning to the right past the Pont St. Michel, 
 take the Quai du Marcho Neuf until you arrive at 
 the great open space Parvis du Notre Dame, in 
 front of the great Cathedral. 
 
 Notre Dame was completed ten years before the 
 Sainte Chapelle was begun. One is struck at once 
 by the contrast between the two styles — the one light, 
 fragile-looking (at least from within), the other 
 massive, stern and somber. This epic in stone was 
 begun in 1163 (the first stone being laid by Pope 
 Alexander III in person) and consecrated twenty 
 years later. Ages before that, however, a Roman 
 temple dedicated to Jupiter had stood on the spot. 
 After Christianity had become established in France 
 churches became numerous on this small island, and 
 two were abolished to make way for ISTotre Dame. 
 One of these was dedicated to St. Stephen the Proto- 
 martyr, and many souvenirs of the Saint will be 
 found in the Cathedral. 
 
 One of the earliest Gothic churches in France, it 
 is of its kind one of the most perfect, and it is inter- 
 esting to note that years ago the pile looked much 
 more imposing even than it does to-day because it 
 was reached by a broad flight of steps; in recent 
 years the land around it has been raised. 
 
 ITero is a summary list of the chief things to be 
 seen in Notre Dame: 
 
 The rose window (western fagade) dedicated to 
 the glory of the Virgin, who sits with Crown and 
 scepter bearing the Child on her left arm; 
 
 41 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 The high reliefs in stone, gilt and painting (on the 
 wall between choir and ambulatory), executed early 
 in the fourteenth century, and representing scenes 
 in the life of Christ. The series was continued a 
 ?i4tle later, and these are better modeled, but not so 
 quaint (on south side of choir) ; 
 
 The medieval wonder-working statue of Our Lady 
 (near the pillar entrance to choir and ambulatory, 
 south transept) ; 
 
 The view outside of the three great iron portals 
 of the west front, dedicated respectively to Our 
 Lady (northern), the Redeemer (also called Porte 
 de Jugement), center, and that of St. Anne, the 
 Mother of the Virgin (southern), which was taken 
 from the earlier church on the same site. 
 
 ISTotre Dame has suffered greatly at one time or 
 another from the hands of turbulent mobs. During 
 the Revolution the Cathedral was turned into a 
 Temple of Reason, and the statue of the Virgin was 
 replaced by one of Liberty, while statues of Voltaire 
 and Rousseau replaced the Saints. (Read Carlyle's 
 picturesque pages on these incidents.) The orgies 
 that took place in the sacred building at that time 
 led to its being closed, and it was reopened in 1802 
 as a place of worship by Napoleon, who was after- 
 wards crowned there with Josephine. It was the 
 most magnificent ceremonial in the history of the 
 place. Notre Dame was restored in 1845. 
 
 The interior of Notre Dame is imposing, though 
 a little heavy and somber in character. Though the 
 
 42 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PAEIS 
 
 navo and choir were sixty years in construction, 
 there is scarcely any difference in style except in 
 details. Most of the capitals are adorned with ex- 
 amples of the flora of Parisian fields. At the west 
 end is a gallery now occupied by the great organ; 
 it was formerly the stage on which miracle plays 
 were performed. The choir, filled with stained 
 glass, is the most beautiful part of the church. Some 
 parts of it, the bays which separate the side aisles 
 from the crossings, are of the fourteenth century, 
 and of tliis period are the beautiful little angels 
 blowing trumpets which surmount the archivolt. 
 
 Formerly the pavement was a mass of tombstones, 
 hearing portrait in brass or marble, but Louis XIVs 
 architects did away with these and substituted a 
 marble pavement. The few statues now in the 
 churcli are modem. 
 
 The treasury contains holy relics, including the 
 famous Crown of Thorns, given to St. Louis by the 
 King of Constantinople and carried to Notre Dame 
 in 1239 by the King, as well as a piece of the Cross, 
 a nail used in the crucifixion, and other ecclesiasti- 
 cal objects. 
 
 The ascent to the summit of Notre Dame is an 
 arduous undertaking, but from it one obtains the 
 finest view of Paris. It is a spectacle not easily for- 
 gotten and never to be seen elsewhere, showing as it 
 does all the history, the life and the mystery of 
 Paris. The wonderful carved gargoyles, demons and 
 strange animals, too, so beloved of the Parisians, are 
 
 43 
 
PEESEXT DAY PARIS 
 
 l)est seen by approacliing them through the tower. 
 
 No sacred building ever had so superb an his- 
 torian as Victor Hugo, in his gTeat romance in which 
 he tells the history and gives the romantic atmos- 
 phere of Notre Dame. During the war a fire was 
 started by an incendiary bomb dropped by a Ger- 
 man aeroplane, but happily little damage was done. 
 
 On the north side of the Parvis Notre Dame is 
 the Hotel Dieu (God's House), one of the chief hos- 
 pitals of Paris. The original Hotel Dieu stood in 
 the garden where is now the statue of Charlemagne ; 
 at that time the hospital and its annex — the old 
 building on the opposite side of the river — were 
 connected by a high narrow bridge over the river. 
 Facing the Cathedral on the western side of the 
 Place is the Prefecture of Police. Opposite the 
 south side of the church, at the end of the island, is 
 the gruesome building known as the Morgue, or 
 mortuary, which used to be considered one of the 
 sights of Paris, but is now closed to sightseers. 
 
 From anywhere in its neighborhood an interest- 
 ing view of Notre Dame can be obtained, but the 
 best is from the Quai de I'Archeveche, from which 
 the buttresses and the intricate masonry may be 
 studied. 
 
 This part of old Paris is crammed with places of 
 interest, and those who have time to spare and can 
 peer into old courtyards and examine the old houses 
 will be amply rewarded by many a fascinating peep 
 into the city's bygone days. The "Petit Pont" 
 
 44 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PAEIS 
 
 ("small bridge"), joining the island to the south 
 shore, occupies the site of a bridge built by the 
 Konians in continuation of their great road from the 
 South. There are still hundreds of houses dating 
 from centuries past with massive gateways and doors, 
 built for defense in the troublous times of yore, and 
 through some of the gateways one can obtain 
 glimpses of these strange old-fashioned courtyards. 
 One of the houses on the Quai aux Fleurs is sup- 
 posed to occupy the site of an earlier one once ten- 
 anted by the famous lovers Abelard and Heloi'se. 
 The Tour Dagobert was in the Rue Chanoinesse, but 
 was pulled down in 1909. 
 
 There were formerly between Notre Dame and 
 the Hotel Dicu and the Palais de Justice a whole 
 honeycomb of narrow, tortuous and malodorous 
 streets with strange names, where side by side with 
 all descriptions of vice, there worked modest crafts- 
 men, especially dyers who sent tinted streams — blue, 
 red and green — down to the river; while small 
 chapels leaned up against the master structure, dedi- 
 cated to Sainte Marine, St. Pierre aux Boeufs, and 
 other out-of-the-way members of the Saints' Calen- 
 dar. ISTearly all have been swept away. St. Bernard 
 is said to have preached in a chapel (that of St. 
 Aignan) in the Rue des Hrsins, the remains of which 
 were discovered in recent years. 
 
 Crossing the Pont St. Louis from the Quai aux 
 Fleurs, one is on the He St. Louis, a sort of pro- 
 longation of the larger island, a kind of decayed and 
 
 45 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 rather dismal suburb ("a provincial town in the 
 midst of Paris," as one writer calls it). The He 
 St. Louis only began to be built on in the seven- 
 teenth century (Louis XIII) and most of the houses 
 of old seigneurial families date from that and the 
 succeeding century. Many distinguished people — ■ 
 poets, artists, and leaders of fashion — have lived 
 here. The Hotel Lauzun (1675, with a curious 
 court; Theophile Gautier and Baudelaire both lived 
 here) on the Quai d'Anjou, and the fine Hotel Lam- 
 bert, in the Rue St. Louis, once a rendezvous of wits 
 and infellect, and for a time the home of Voltaire, 
 are eminently worth visiting.) The Polish Library, 
 founded in 1830, is interesting. 
 
 The island has a quaint old-world air which 
 seems far removed from busy twentieth century 
 Paris. Pont Sully, a fine double bridge, like Pont 
 Neuf, crosses both arms of the Seine. A fine statue 
 of the sculptor Barye is hera 
 
 Looking up the river one sees on the right the 
 wine port and wine market (Halle aux Vins). The 
 Church of St Louis is not of any particular interest, 
 and the Pont Marie is not named after any Queen, 
 but after the man who built it for Louis XIII. It 
 is interesting as being the oldest but one in Paris. 
 
 There are, by the way, thirty-one bridges over 
 the Seine in Paris, a fact that excited the mirth of 
 Richard Jefferies, si. fascinating writer on his own 
 subjects, the English countryside, though he did not 
 understand Parid. There is nothing that shows the 
 
 46 
 
THE ORIGINS OF PARIS 
 
 human and social side of a city like bridges. They 
 are the gangways of communal life and those of 
 Paris are particularly interesting, as landmarks in 
 the history of her people. Without them the Seine 
 would be but a busy muddy waterway with but little 
 character of its own, except when it becomes turbu- 
 lent and overflows its banks, as happens every now 
 and then. Every one of the Seine bridges has its 
 particular style and marks its epoch. In olden times 
 people had a superstitious reverence for bridges, and 
 peasants would doff their hats as they crossed them. 
 This was in reference to a sort of feeling or belief 
 that bridge-makers had in a way circumvented the 
 decrees of Nature by establishing a crossing to what 
 had never been intended to be crossed. 
 
 Having made the tour of the small island of St. 
 Louis, we may cross the Pont Louis Philippe to the 
 Quai de I'Hotel de Ville, whence by taking the under- 
 ground railway one can get back to one's starting 
 place; there are stations in the Place de I'Hotel de 
 iVille or, a few minutes further on, at the Place du 
 Chatelet (follow the quay with the river to the left). 
 
CHAPTEK V 
 
 EOYAL PAEIS— THE TUILERIES, RUE DE LA PAIG, 
 THE LOUVEE 
 
 Let us start again from the Place de la Concorde, 
 But instead of going up the Champs Elysees, as we 
 did on a former excursion, take the opposite direc- 
 tion and enter the Garden of the Tuileries, which 
 extend to the Palace of the Louvre. The principal 
 entrance to the Tuileries Palace was in a line with 
 the Obelisk and the Arc de Triomphe. It was burned 
 down during the Commune in 1871, all that re- 
 mains being the two wings that connected it with 
 the Louvre. The name Tuileries was derived from 
 "tuile," a tile, because the site was once occupied by 
 tile-makers' yards. The Palace was begun by Cath- 
 erine de Medici (1564) and was the scene of ex- 
 traordinary scenes during the Revolution, Louis 
 XVI being brought hither by the mob from Ver- 
 sailles and installed here with mock honors, while 
 he was again attacked there and escaped a few days 
 before his arrest and detention in the Temple prison. 
 The Palace was surrendered to the mob and sacked. 
 Later it was the residence of ^Napoleon and Jose- 
 phine, and in 1848, under Louis Philippe, it was 
 once more sacked by the mob. The flight of the 
 
 48 
 
ROYAL PARIS 
 
 Empress Eugenie marked practically the end of it. 
 
 The basin of water near the entrance, with a 
 fountain, is a small sea for miniature armadas. 
 Hereabouts are many evidences of the Parisians' 
 love and care for their children. The Tuilcries is a 
 fine playground, and I have already mentioned the 
 portion set apart for the youngsters in the Champs 
 Elysees. At various times of the day one notices a 
 strange haunting aroma of "cookies" in the air. It 
 is that of the little cakes known as "gauffres," which 
 are being made in the kiosks. Very much like 
 sugary sand to the taste, they are greatly beloved of 
 the youngsters — as well as by many of their elders — 
 and seem to add enormous zest to games. 
 
 In the Tuileries gardens nowadays are held ex- 
 hibitions from time to time, like the "Fair of Paris," 
 in temporary wooden buildings. 
 
 Architecturally the gardens are still much as they 
 were left by Lenotre. Near the entrance are re- 
 cumbent statue groups (naturally they are lying in 
 their beds!) of river gods, with tributary children. 
 On the terrace overlooking the Place de la Concorde 
 is the Jeu de Paumc, the once royal game, from 
 which the name is derived, being still sometimes 
 played here. Picture exhibitions are held in the low 
 rambling building, and the terrace of orange trees 
 in tubs is interesting because some of the trees are 
 said to date from the time of Francis I. 
 
 The gardens contain many interesting and some 
 beautiful statues of classical subjects (though some 
 
 49 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 of these are rather dilapidated) and modern celebri- 
 ties, as well as fine animal groups by Cain and 
 others. Note the statue of Waldeck-Rousseau, a one- 
 time Premier. The most interesting of the statues, 
 though, is that of the great statesman Leon Gam- 
 betta, organizer of the National Defense in 1871; 
 the figure on the pedestal of the Alsatian woman 
 seizing the gun of a dying soldier is typical of the 
 Eranco-Prussian War. In another part of the gar- 
 den is a magnificent figure of a boar. One day a 
 shell fell just behind this animal, barely escaping it 
 and burying itself with a great noise in the ground 
 behind; and the curious who crowded round to see 
 what had occurred could not help noting the look of 
 contempt on the face of the boar ! 
 
 The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, in a straight 
 line with the larger distant Arc de Triomphe, was 
 formerly the principal entrance to the Tuileries. It 
 commemorated Napoleon's victories of 1805-09, and 
 an examination of its details shows it to be a very 
 beautiful monument. The name "Carrousel" given 
 to this place originated from a kind of ball on horse- 
 back which was given by Louis XIV. 
 
 On the north side of the Tuileries is the Rue de 
 Rivoli, a handsome thoroughfare, though it is less 
 favored by Parisians themselves than the boule- 
 vards, and is somehow recognized as the foreigners' 
 street, being largely given over to shops that spe- 
 cially appeal to the tourist — postcards and photo- 
 graphs and the inexpensive nicknacks known as 
 
 50 
 
EOYAL PARIS 
 
 "articles do Paris" (which, by the way, were for some 
 roars beforo tho war mostly made by Germans). 
 Begun in 1802, the Rue de Rivoli was not com- 
 pleted until sixty years later; the arcades here and 
 in two or three neighboring streets were tho choice 
 of Napoleon, perhaps in memory of his native Cor- 
 sica — where, however, the sun can be more ardent 
 than it usually is in Paris. 
 
 Before going to the Louvre, turn up the Rue 
 Castigliono (at the corner of the Hotel Continental). 
 A short distance up this thoroughfare, after cross- 
 ing the Rue St Honore, is the Place and Column 
 Vendoma They are so called from Caesar de Ven- 
 dome, son of Henri IV and Gabrielle d'Estree, who 
 had a house here. The Place has had several names 
 in the course of the centuries (you will notice that 
 the Parisians have a habit of changing the names of 
 their thoroughfares according to their political hu- 
 mors; they have not got over it yet). The Column 
 Vendome, erected by Napoleon to commemorate his 
 victories in 1805, is an imitation of Trajan's column 
 in Rome (it is one hundred and forty-two feet high). 
 The bronze surface of the column is cast from cap- 
 tured cannon and represents scenes of Napoleon's 
 campaigns. Many of the figures are portraits. The 
 statue of the Emperor on top is the third that has 
 stood there. Napoleon III pulled down tho one put 
 up by Louis Philippe and substituted tho present 
 one. During the Commune tho mob pulled down 
 
 51 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 the column, but it was replaced in 1874. An inner 
 staircase leads to the top. 
 
 The solid handsome houses in the Place Vendome, 
 besides one of the Ministries, which has a charming 
 old world garden behind it, and the Hotel Ritz, are 
 devoted very largely to picture dealers and anti- 
 quarians' establishments. The Hotel Bristol, once 
 a stopping place for Royalty, exists no more. 
 
 We are now in the Rue de la Paix — the street of 
 the dressmakers and fashionable jewelers. It is 
 crammed nearly every afternoon with the carriages 
 or motor cars of the wealthy, whose ladies are con- 
 sulting their "couturiers." Even Paris is changing, 
 however, and some of the fashionable dressmakers 
 have in recent years pitched their tents further afield, 
 even as far as the Champs Elysees, so that the Rue 
 de la Paix no longer has a monopoly in this par- 
 ticular variety of vanity. 
 
 The "grand couturier" of Paris is an artist — "an 
 artist in matching colors, in combining to obtain 
 effects, as one may see sometimes when he is en- 
 gaged in the interesting task of molding stuffs on 
 the human form. The grand couturier, when plan- 
 ning new schemes, will contemplate the effect pro- 
 duced by combinations of silk and satin swathed 
 round a mannequin ; and this method of molding the 
 material round the body is a practice pursued by 
 some dressmakers with their clients. Everything is 
 held together by pins until the desired effect is ob- 
 tained; and the process of essayage is a long and 
 
 52 
 
EOYAL PARIS 
 
 tedious one — one of those trials wliicli no man would 
 go tliroiigh, but whicli a woman supports with mar- 
 tyr-like patience in the interest of fashion" ("The 
 Spirit of Paris"). 
 
 The Rue de la Paix is "certainly one of the most 
 fascinating streets in the world, and the lounger who 
 dawdled a day in it would witness a pretty fair epit- 
 ome of a large side of Paris life. . . . The street hag 
 an air of aristocratic elegance; it has been tended by 
 dainty feminine fingers, for the balconies of the 
 famous dressmakers are resplendent with flowers all 
 the year round. They are the guardians of the 
 fragile and costly articles for feminine adornment 
 which are stored behind those windows. . . . The 
 windows contain furs of costly workmanship, laces, 
 embroideries, jewels and hats having the latest note 
 of Parisian elegance. There is never any crowding 
 or vulgar display. The simplicity with which very 
 often only one or two objects are shown cunningly 
 serves to indicate how precious and luxurious they 
 are." 
 
 You will probably meet with some of the nimble- 
 fingered and cheery-natured workgirls, known as the 
 "Midinettes," or "Mimi-Pinsons." Alfred de Mus- 
 set wrote the story of the Paris workgirl of his time, 
 and her name was Mimi Pinson. She was gay, 
 thoughtless and careless of the morrow, and would 
 have ice creams one day, though there might be no 
 prospect of bread the next, and she was the friend of 
 the equally happy-go-lucky student. But her heart 
 
 53 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 was of gold and everybody liked her. The Mimi 
 Pinsons are in some respects different to-day; they 
 have a trade union, and if things don't satisfy them 
 they go on strike. Their strike for better conditions 
 some two or three years ago resulted in legislation 
 giving them a half holiday a week — and richly they 
 deserved it. It was so difBcult for them to go to 
 theaters and enjoy any of the higher pleasures of 
 life, which those who wear the clothes they make 
 can enjoy, that Gustavo Charpentier, the great musi- 
 cian, who wrote the opera of the workgirl, created 
 an Academy of Music and Dance, especially for 
 them, known as "FAcademie de Mimi Pinson," 
 where they have sliown their skill in the arts. Dur- 
 ing the war many of them nobly served their suffer- 
 ing fellow countrymen as hospital nurses and in 
 other ways. 
 
 A peculiarity of post-war Paris dear to the fem- 
 inine heart is the tea-shops which have cropped up 
 all over the city. Establishments for afternoon tea, 
 mostly with English or American names, existed 
 before the war, but they have increased a hundred- 
 fold of recent years, and to be fashionable one must 
 appear at one or the other of these three or four 
 times a week, drink tea and eat cakes, and become 
 familiar with the latest gossip and scandal over an 
 aromatic cigarette (preferably of the American 
 variety). At some of these "thes" there is dancing, 
 and at all one can see the latest styles of dress and 
 the acme of elegance and fashion. 
 
 54 
 
ROYAL PARIS 
 
 !N"ow let us return to the Rue St. Honore, and 
 follow it on tho left until we come to the Church of 
 St. Roch, tho plague saint, erected in the latter part 
 of the seventeenth century. There are paintings 
 and sculpture here worthy of notice, but the church 
 is interesting mostly because Napoleon won his first 
 distinction here (Louis XIV and Napoleon haunt 
 us in Paris, you see). The steps were occupied by 
 the insurgents who had risen against the National 
 Assembly then sitting at the Tuileries. He dis- 
 persed the mob and cleared the steps, and the col- 
 umns still bear marks of tho bullets. 
 
 Now, continuing either along the Rue St. Honore 
 (where at No. 92 Moliere was bom), or the Rue de 
 Rivoli, we shall come in a few minutes to the Place 
 du Theatre Frangais, at the end of the Avenue de 
 rOpera (the Opera being at the other end). The 
 statue in front is of Alfred de Musset, with his 
 Musa 
 
 Let us turn down the Rue des Pyramides and 
 look at the bronze equestrian statue of Joan of Arc 
 by Fremiet. The cult of the Maid of Orleans, 
 which had already become considerable during the 
 last two or three years before the war, has increased 
 greatly of late years. This statue and the one of 
 the Maid in front of the St. Augustine Church nearly 
 always bear flowers and wreaths. Joan of Arc and 
 St. Genevieve, the patron Saint, are believed by 
 many to have exercised a special protection over 
 Paris during the war. 
 
 55 
 
PEESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 Between the theater and the Louvre is the Palais 
 Royal, which is a State building not opened to 
 the public. It was built by Cardinal Richelieu and 
 was then called the Palais du Cardinal; later it was 
 occupied by Anne of Austria and other royal per- 
 sonages. St. Simon describes the orgies that took 
 place here in the days of the Regent. The visitor 
 can go into the gardens behind the Palace through 
 quiet passages. They are surrounded by arcades 
 containing shops, mostly rather dismal book shops, 
 cafes, and an old-world atmosphere. It was in these 
 gardens that Camille Desmoulins on July 12, 1789, 
 summoned the populace to arms and started the Revo- 
 lution (see Carlyle again for these incidents), and a 
 statue of the leader records the fact. 
 
 Return to Rue de Rivoli ; at No. 107 is the Mu- 
 seum of Decorative Art (Pavilion de Marsan), the 
 South Kensington Museum of Paris. It contains 
 beautiful tapestries, Sevres vases, sculpture, painf- 
 ings, souvenirs. Oriental collections, etc., and tempo- 
 rary exhibitions are often arranged here. 
 
 We are now at the Louvre, the noblest monument 
 of the French Renaissance and the most magnificent 
 museum and art gallery in Europe, containing as it 
 does an unrivaled collection of paintings and sculp- 
 ture (a use to which it was turned after the Revolu- 
 tion). The site of a hunting lodge, dating from the 
 thirteenth century, the foundations of the present 
 building were laid in 1541 by Francis I. The south 
 wing was continued under Catherine de Medici 
 
 56 
 
ROYAL PARTS 
 
 and other monarchs. Louis XIV finished the east- 
 ern half. The portion facing the Church of St. 
 Germain TAuxerrois is called the old Louvre; the 
 new Louvre consists chiefly of the galleries that con- 
 nected it with the Tuileries (completed under ITa- 
 poleon III). The portion of the new Louvre facing 
 the Palais Royal is occupied by the Ministry of Fi- 
 nance. 
 
 All authorities agree that the Louvre gallery as 
 regards its art exhibits contains three sublime treas- 
 ures, in the possession of which alone it would tran- 
 scend all other museums of art. They are the 
 *'Gioconda," or "Mona Lisa," of Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 the "Venus of Milo," and the "Winged Victory" of 
 Samothrace. The "Gioconda" was bought from the 
 artist, who died at Amboise and is buried there, by 
 Francis I, and, the most valuable picture in the Cab- 
 inet of this Monarch, was first hung there in 1545, 
 so that it may be said to form the nucleus of the 
 Louvre collection. Mona Lisa was the wife of the 
 artist's friend, Francesco del Giocondo, and Leonardo 
 is said to have worked at it for four years without 
 finishing it to his satisfaction. Yet it is a supreme 
 masterpiece of his and all other art of the kind. 
 Many great writers have bestowed infinite praise on 
 it (Vasari in Italy, Walter Pater in our own time). 
 It is, Vasari said, "more divine than human, living 
 like nature ; . . . it is not painting, but the despair 
 of painters." Michelet wrote, "This painting draws 
 
 57 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 me, absorbs me, thrills me ; I go to it in spite of my- 
 self, as the bird does to the serpent." 
 — The extraordinary theft of the '^Gioeonda" some 
 years ago, and the picture's equally mysterious re- 
 turn, will be well remembered. 
 
 The "Venus" and the "Victory" were added to the 
 collection last century. The "Venus" was found in 
 1820 in the island of Melos, in the Greek archipelago, 
 and is by an unknown sculptor. Representing, as 
 is supposed, the Greek goddess of Love, this noble 
 work is all the more remarkable, as it is not mentioned 
 in any ancient history of art and seems to have been 
 only one among many greater and lesser works of 
 Greek plastic art. "In type it belongs," says Grant 
 'Allen, "to a school which forms a transition between 
 the perfect early grace and purity of Phidias, with 
 his pupils, and the later, more self-conscious and de- 
 liberate style of Praxiteles and his contemporaries." 
 The third glory of the Louvre— the "Nike," or "Vic- 
 tory," of Samothrace, known all over the world by 
 reproductions, is a much-mutilated figure of Victory, 
 standing like a figure-head on the prow of a trireme 
 — a splendid example of Greek art (dating from 305 
 B.C.) and a magnificent symbol of triumphant bear- 
 ing. 
 
 The Louvre contains, perhaps, the most complete 
 collection in existence of Italian, Flemish, Spanish 
 and modern Prench art, Greek, Roman, Egyptian 
 and Assyrian antiquities, sculpture, and ancient and 
 medieval jewelry. On the ground floor are the sculp- 
 
 58 
 
ROYAL PARIS 
 
 tures and engravings; on the first floor pictures, 
 drawings and varied oh jets d'art, including furniture ; 
 while the Marine, Chinese and other museums are 
 on the second floor. The Galleries are heing contin- 
 ually added to and changed, so that it is sometimes 
 difficult to find the particular objects one wishes to 
 inspect. In recent years great numbers of additions 
 have been made, either bequests or gifts from pri- 
 vate collectors, or transfers from Ministries and 
 other public buildings, while the society of the "Amis 
 du Louvre" do a good deal in the way of acquiring 
 privately, or by influencing public grants, to enrich 
 the collection. 
 
 It is impossible in these few pages to give any 
 account of the treasures of the Louvre, but even 
 those in a hurry should not omit visiting, among 
 other rooms, the Salle du Mohilier, with its magnifi- 
 cent Gobelin tapestry, carpets and furniture ; the fur- 
 niture, tapestries (Gobelins and Beauvais), busts and 
 other ohjets d'art in the Louis XIV and Louis XV 
 rooms; the ancient sculpture in the wing known as 
 the Pavilion MolUen (each room is known as a rule 
 by the name of the chief object exhibited in it), nor 
 the modern French sculpture (though this is less in- 
 teresting) in the rooms devoted to these exhibits. A 
 succession of rooms on the first floor devoted to vari- 
 ous schools leads to the Salle Carre (or square room), 
 which is filled with supreme masterpieces by Mu- 
 rillo, Titian, Rembrandt, Guido, Correggio, Raphael, 
 Veronese, Van Dyck, Holbein and the "Mona Lisa." 
 
 59 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 The Grande Galerie, again, runs the entire length of 
 the side overlooking the Seine and constitutes in it- 
 self a long succession of great paintings from vari- 
 ous schools — a history of art indeed. The collec- 
 tions of Rubens and Van Dycks are astonishing, and 
 though the Louvre is not very rich in British paint- 
 ings, those that are here are very choice. One needs 
 days and weeks to inspect with anything like thor- 
 oughness the treasures of the Louvre, and then, one 
 ought to return and study the ceilings, — which is tir- 
 ing, but well worth while. 
 
 The Church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois was at 
 one time the Louvre Chapel. Founded in the sixth 
 century, the present building dates from the twelfth, 
 but it was added to later. There are several chapels 
 with fine monuments and some frescoes on the walls 
 worth inspecting. I have already referred to the 
 sinister connection of the church with the St. Bar- 
 tholomew massacre. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 PABIS OF THE EXHIBITIONS AND LITERARY PARIS 
 
 —THE TROCADERO PALACE, NAPOLEON'S TOMB, 
 
 THE EIFFEL TOWER, THE ACADEMIES 
 
 Stabt from the Palais du Trocadero, which is 
 easily reached by the Metropolitain (underground) 
 railway, or by tramway from the Madeleine (No. 
 16). This tramway ride affords a good view of the 
 Boulevard Haussmann, Avenue Friedland, the 
 Etoile quarter and the Avenue Kleber. The Troca- 
 dero Palace (democratic Paris likes to give this 
 name of Palace, once reserved for Kings, to their 
 great buildings, and they have indeed many "peo- 
 ple's palaces") was built in Oriental style for the 
 1878 exhibition. Standing on elevated ground over- 
 looking the Seine, it is crescent-shaped, with its two 
 tips pointing towards the Seine. The main building 
 is flanked by two minarets and two curved wings. A 
 fine view can bo obtained even from the terrace over- 
 looking the ornamental garden with its cascade and 
 basin, and the Seine. The Trocadero itself is now 
 a Museum of Ethnography (with a fine collection of 
 French peasants' costumes), while it contains a con- 
 cert hall capable of holding six thousand people. 
 
 Behind the Palace is the Place du Trocadero, from 
 61 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 whicli several fine avenues start — Avenue Henri Mar- 
 tin, a handsome residential thoroughfare leading to 
 the Bois de Boulogne; Avenue Kleber, at the top of 
 which the Arc de Triomphe can be perceived; Ave- 
 nue Malakoff, leading to the Place Victor Hugo, 
 with a fine statue of the poet, etc. In the Passy 
 cemetery, on an elevated position to the left, there is 
 one tombstone at least worthy of a visit — that of 
 the remarkable girl, Marie Bashkirtseff, the young 
 Russian painter. Few people nowadays probably 
 remember the sensation caused by the publication of 
 her extraordinary "Journal" shortly before the last 
 century died, and soon after her own premature 
 death. A few steps further to the left will bring one 
 to the statue of Benjamin Franklin, who lived in 
 the suburb of Passy, which begins here. 
 
 If we pass down the Avenue du Trocadero (re- 
 cently renamed the Avenue du President Wilson), 
 we shortly come, at the corner of the Rue Boissiere, 
 to the Guimet Museum — a collection of antiquities, 
 pottery, and objects of the religions of India and 
 Eastern Asia, China and Japan. At a short dis- 
 tance from it, on the right (entrance a few steps 
 down Rue Pierre Charron, rebaptized Rue Pierre de 
 Sertre) is another museum — the Galliera, a fine 
 building in Renaissance style, which was presented 
 to the city of Paris by the Marquise de Galliera. It 
 is chiefly devoted to exhibitions of industrial and 
 decorative art, and possesses in addition fine tapes- 
 tries, sculptures and pictures, which are being gradu- 
 
 62 
 
LITERARY PARIS 
 
 ally added to. A collection of drawings and studies 
 by Puvis do Chavannes has been presented by the 
 artist's family. 
 
 In the Place d'lena, between the two museums, is 
 a famous statue of Washington. You will have seen 
 the statue of Lafayette in an enclosed space in the 
 Tuileries gardens, near the Louvre. 
 
 From the Avenue du Trocadero, if we retrace our 
 steps a short way, we can cross the river by the Pont 
 d'lena, which takes us to the Champs do Mars, from 
 which point there is a fine view of the Palace we have 
 just quitted. 
 
 The Champs de Mars is again historic ground. 
 Louis XVI swore fidelity to the new Constitution 
 here before the Autel de la Patrie (Altar of the 
 Motherland) at the great Federation fete on July 14, 
 1790, and the ceremony was witnessed by hundreds 
 of thousands of people seated on a raised embank- 
 ment made for the purpose. Talleyrand, Bishop of 
 Autun, with four hundred clergy, presided over the 
 religious ceremony. !Napoleon celebrated a similar 
 fete here a fortnight before Waterloo, and other 
 festivities were held by Louis Philippe and l^apoleon 
 III. The Champs de Mars was a portion of the site 
 of the various Universal Exhibitions. 
 
 There is a French proverb that says it is only the 
 provisional, or temporary, that lasts, and one is 
 rather reminded of this when one notes the numbers 
 of buildings that have remained in Paris as inheri- 
 tances from the various exhibitions. They fill up to 
 
 63 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 some extent the gaps caused by the destruction of 
 revolutions. Most people are puzzled when they 
 first come to Paris to decide to their own satisfaction 
 whether or not they like the Eiffel Tower, which 
 was built by M. Gustave Eiffel for the Exhibition of 
 1889, 980 feet high, its base contained between the 
 four supports covers an area of nearly four acres. 
 The Tower is entirely constructed of iron. It is now 
 the property of the city of Paris, the proprietary 
 rights of the constructing company having lapsed. 
 During the war it was used for defensive purposes, 
 and its wireless installation is one of the finest in 
 the world. In peace times visitors can go to the 
 first, second or third platforms (from which, of 
 course, very extended views can be obtained) either 
 by the lifts or the steps. Most people prefer the for- 
 mer, as there are 1792 of the latter! 
 
 The Ecole Militaire, at the rear of the Champs de 
 Mars, which covers twenty-six acres, is now the Su- 
 perior War School. It was founded in 1751 by 
 Louis XV for the military education of gentlemen's 
 sons. 
 
 Turning down the Avenue de Tourville, we come 
 in a few minutes to the Hotel des Invalides (we saw 
 the other side of it and the Esplanade des Invalides 
 from the Alexandre III bridge). The Hotel des 
 Invalides is the Chelsea Hospital of Paris. Founded 
 by Louis XIV in 1670, it was intended to lodge 
 seven thousand infirm war veterans, but for many 
 years there was never anything like that number in 
 
 64 
 
LITERAEY PAEIS 
 
 the place. Matters have changed since the war, and 
 during the war the Invalides, as the headquarters of 
 the Military Governor of the capital, was a very 
 busy place, with a whole network of offices and de- 
 partments in the neighborhood. 
 
 The Church of the Invalides is divided into two 
 parts — the Churcli of St. Louis and the Chapel un- 
 der the Dome. In the latter is Napoleon's tomb, 
 constructed by Visconti immediately under the cu- 
 pola. It is an open circular crypt, thirty-six feet in 
 diameter and twenty feet deep, with a granite sar- 
 cophagus hewn out of a single block, weighing about 
 sixty-eight tons, which was brought from Finland 
 for the purpose at a cost of 140,000 francs. The 
 great Emperor's remains were brought to France in 
 1840 by the Prince de Joinville, in obedience to his 
 own wish expressed in his last will {"Je desire que 
 mes cendres reposent sur les hords de la Seine, aiC 
 milieu de ce peuple frangais que j'ai tant aime/' is 
 the inscription at the entrance to the crypt). Nu- 
 merous writers of note (among them Victor Hugo, 
 somewhat scornfully, for what he considered the 
 shabby manner in which the Government had ar- 
 ranged the affair ; and Thackeray, rather flippantly) 
 have described the home-coming and how the re- 
 mains were carried in state through Paris and de- 
 posited in one of the chapels for twenty years until 
 the tomb was constructed. 
 
 The tombs of Jerome and Joseph Bonaparte are 
 in the chapel, as well as monuments of other great 
 
 G5 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 generals. On either side of the entrance is a sar- 
 cophagus, one to Duroc and the other to Bertrand, 
 the Emperor's two faithful friends. Duroc was 
 killed in 1813 at the Battle of Bautzen, while 
 Bertrand shared the Emperor's exile and followed 
 his remains when they were brought back to France. 
 Note the symbolical statuary, wreaths, etc., and the 
 trophies of flags captured by Napoleon. 
 
 The Church of St. Louis, at the back of the tomb, 
 is entered from the Cour d'Honneur. This Cour is 
 surrounded by arcades, the walls of which are deco- 
 rated with paintings illustrating the history of 
 France. 
 
 The Artillery Museum has a large collection of 
 weapons of all kinds, which has been added to dur- 
 ing the present war. The Army Museum contains 
 interesting relics, mostly Napoleonic, and a collec- 
 tion of old armor. There is also an ethnological col- 
 lection. Altogether the Invalides, which covers some 
 thirty acres, is a vast monument to the military 
 glory of France, Napoleon being the center and 
 summit of all, and the visitor must remember that 
 far from forgetting the great Corsican, the study of 
 Napoleon and the Napoleonic epoch in France is as 
 ardent as ever it was. 
 
 A stone's throw from this tomb of a mighty war- 
 rior is a beautiful statue to a great man of peace, 
 who really did love his fellow men and devoted his 
 life to their welfare. From the Place Vauban turn 
 down the Avenue de Breteuil and into the Place de 
 
 66 
 
LITERARY PARIS 
 
 Breteuil, where there is a monument to Louis Pasteur, 
 by Falguiere, one of France's greatest sculptors 
 erected in 1904. Pasteur is seated, and a mother 
 brings him her daughter to cure. Do not miss this 
 statue, with its interesting details, erected to one of 
 the benefactors of the human race. The Boulevard 
 Pasteur, a little farther on, leads to the Institut Pas- 
 teur, in the Rue Dutot. By taking the Rue de 
 Sevres, we come again to the Boulevard des Inva- 
 lides, and on the right is the Blind Asylum, founded 
 by Valentin Hauy, the oldest of its kind. Soldiers 
 blinded in the war work there — there is a club for 
 the blind and a very large library. Wonderful things 
 are being done for the blind in France to-day. 
 
 One can return to the Place and Pont de la Con- 
 corde on the underground railway or by tramway 
 from the Champs de Mars, or one can walk back 
 through the Rue Constantin to the Quai d'Orsay. 
 The big building on the right as one reaches the 
 Quai is the Foreign Office (usually referred to in 
 political circles as the "Quai d'Orsay"). This big 
 building, or series of buildings, was erected in 1845 
 on the site of the gardens of the Palais Bourbon (or 
 Frencli House of Parliament). It was here that the 
 long continued sittings of the Peace Conference were 
 held, so that the Quai d'Orsay may be said to be the 
 birthplace of the League of ITations. 
 
 A few steps further and one comes to the Cham- 
 ber of Deputies (see Chapter II). The bridge and 
 Place de la Concorde are on our left, and stretching 
 
 67 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 in front are the quays (on the left) and the Boule- 
 vard St. Germain (Chapter IX). 
 
 The Quai d'Orsaj continues for some little dis- 
 tance, and then becomes the Quai Voltaire and the 
 Quai Malaquais. On the Quai Voltaire lived, among 
 other great men at various times, Alfred de Musset, 
 Ingres, and Voltaire. The great Skeptic died in a 
 room which is still preserved. Near to the Solferino 
 Bridge is the Palace de Legion d'honneur, and a 
 little further the fine station of the Orleans Railway, 
 built on the site of the Cour des Comptes (destroyed 
 during the Commune). The Ecole des Beaux-Arts 
 is on the Quai Malaquais. It was founded in 1860 
 for instruction in painting, sculpture and architec- 
 ture, and a branch of it is the famous Villa Medici, 
 the French art school at Rome, to which winners of 
 first prizes are sent for a four years' course of 
 instruction at the expense of the Government. 
 
 Some yards further, on Quai Conti, facing the 
 Louvre, on the other side of the river, is the Institut 
 de France (note that the two buildings are appro* 
 priately joined by the Bridge of the Arts). The In- 
 stitut, whose big dome is visible from a long way 
 round, stands on the spot once occupied by the his- 
 toric Tour de Nesle. The Institut forms the literary 
 and scientific center of Paris. Founded by Cardinal 
 Mazarin, and originally intended for the education 
 of young men, it is now the seat o? the five learned 
 Academies, which meet within its walls. These are 
 the French Academy of Letters, whose members are 
 
 68 
 
LITERARY PARIS 
 
 called tho ''Forty Immortals" because they are sup- 
 posed to have reached such a stage of celebrity ; the 
 Academies of Historical and Archaeological Research 
 {Inscriptions et Belles Lettres) ; des Sciences; des 
 Beaux-Arts (the fine arts) and the Academy des 
 Sciences Morales et Politiques — curious names, some 
 may think, but which, nevertheless, cover nearly the 
 ■whole range of intellectual activity. 
 
 The most important of the Academies is that of 
 Letters. The reception of a new Immortal is an 
 important social and fashionable event, when, as the 
 space available is very limited, and seats are not 
 reserved, there is great demand for accommodation. 
 If one is lucky enough to get a ticket, and after that 
 to get in, one will see assembled all the most impor- 
 tant people in Paris, from the President downward 
 (President Deschanel is an Academician, as was his 
 predecessor, M. Poincare) and their wives and 
 women friends in exquisite toilettes. 
 
 It is true that election to the Academy does not 
 mean deathless fame, and many who have occupied 
 these coveted seats are now properly forgotten (it 
 may be that some of those now sitting there will share 
 the same fate), but the distinction is naturally a 
 much envied one. Tho new member on his reception 
 delivers a speech before his brother Academicians 
 who have elected him (an election which has to be 
 ratified by the President of tho Republic), and this 
 speech takes the form of an eulogium of his prede- 
 cessor in the particular seat Thus continuity is 
 
 69 
 
PEESEN^T DAY PAEIS 
 
 given to the institution. The latest Academicians to 
 be received soon after the war were the Marshals 
 Joffre and Foch, thongh these great soldiers have 
 no literary pretensions, in the election of whom the 
 Academy followed an old precedent. A quaint story 
 is told indeed of Marshal Saxe, who was, on his re- 
 turn from his victorious campaigns, invited to be- 
 come a member, and refused on the excuse that he 
 did not know how to spell (which was quite true) 
 and therefore would be out of place in such an as- 
 sembly. 
 
 The Academicians have an official uniform for 
 State occasions of green with gold braid and a (use- 
 less and unnecessary) sword. Although they are of- 
 ten the object of banter from people who cannot 
 aspire to the Academicians (but then, who is not a 
 butt for irony in Paris?), yet the result is that the 
 profession of letters, whether in the more august 
 form of history, theology, or moral philosophy, or the 
 more popular form of romance, poetry, or the drama, 
 is given a standing and a dignity in France which it 
 mostly lacks in other countries. Still, it is neverthe- 
 less a fact that some of France's greatest writers 
 were never members of the Academy. The Academy 
 also gives prizes to young literary talent, the funds 
 having mostly come from private bequests for this 
 purpose. They even give a yearly prize for the exer- 
 cise of domestic virtues. 
 
 The Academy is also the mistress of the FrencK 
 language and diction, and the members have been for 
 
 70 
 
LITERAKY PARIS 
 
 many years engaged on the compilation of a great 
 dictionary of the French language. In past times it 
 was also tHe mentor of good manners and elegance. 
 The French like academies, and many of the French 
 provincial towns have had their own academies, some 
 of which wielded considerable influence — such Acad- 
 emies as Lyons, Caen, Amiens, Arras, Dijon, iSTancy, 
 Metz, Rouen, Toulouse, Chalons, Montpellier, Mar- 
 seilles, Besangon, Aries and Soissons. 
 
 Just behind the Institut is the Mint (Hotel de la 
 Monnaie), which contains an important collection of 
 coins, open to the public. 
 
 A picturesque feature of this part of Paris is 
 the old book stores on either side of the Seine here- 
 abouts, where scholars, bookworms and others linger 
 in the hope of picking up knowledge or bibliographi- 
 cal treasures. The stalls have been here more or less 
 since the middle of the seventeenth century, when 
 they were turned off the Pont ^euf. Treasures 
 bibliographic become rarer and rarer, because the 
 dealers themselves are too keen on letting nothing 
 pass their hands that may be a bargain ; but still with 
 care and time these may be sometimes picked up, and 
 in any case one can often find plenty of interesting 
 books. Mr. Gladstone and other distinguished Eng- 
 lishmen used to be very fond of whiling away hours 
 at these bookstalls. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 PARIS OP THE MIDDLE AGES— THE MAEAIS, THE 
 BASTILLE 
 
 Let us start from the Place du Chatelet, which, 
 as the reader has already found out, is easily reached 
 by the underground railway. In the center of the 
 Place is the fountain of Victory, with its four 
 sphinxes, celebrating victories of Napoleon. There 
 is little in this busy square, with the popular thea- 
 ters on either side (one of them the Theatre SaraH 
 Bernhardt) to remind one of its grim history, for on 
 this spot once stood the notorious prison of the Grand 
 Chatelet (which was removed in 1802). Ages be- 
 fore — in the ninth century — a wooden tower existed 
 here to defend the bridge against the Normans. It 
 was rebuilt in stone on a larger scale in the twelfth 
 century, and this fortress was called the Grand 
 Chatelet. 
 
 We must turn down the broad Avenue Victoria, 
 past the Sarah Bernhardt Theater, and halt at the 
 garden on the left, in order to get a look at the 
 Tour St Jacques. This beautiful tower in flamboy- 
 ant Gothic is all that remains of a church destroyed 
 in the Revolution. As Mr. Hilaire Belloc says, "The 
 carvings jostle one another . . . and there finally 
 
 72 
 
PARIS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 appears that effect of a fire burning which has given 
 to the last style of medieval architecture in France 
 its French name and has inspired the phrase of 
 Michelet with its violent metaphor: 'The Gothic 
 caught fire, leaped up in the tongues of the Flam- 
 boyant, and disappeared.' " From the summit of 
 this tower, Pascal, the great mathematician, made his 
 early barometrical observations in the seventeenth 
 century, and a statue of him is under the arch. The 
 tower is now the home of the "Clerk of the Weather" 
 — in other words, the Paris Meteorological Observa- 
 tory. 
 
 Let us turn from ancient French art for a moment 
 and note the modem in the form of the graceful stat- 
 ues in the garden around the Tower. Some of them 
 are simple enough subjects, and a charming one is 
 nothing more heroic than a girl carrying one of those 
 loaves of bread in the form of a big ring which are 
 sold in some parts of the country, but it is very ar- 
 tistic and graceful. 
 
 At the end of the Avenue Victoria we come to the 
 Place de I'Hotel de Ville, with the monumental Town 
 Hall. The Hotel de Ville, which is the headquar- 
 ters of the Paris municipality, was burned down by 
 the mob during the Commune and was rebuilt in 
 1882. It is a splendid copy of French Renaissance. 
 The first Hotel de Ville was bought for the purpose 
 ol a town hall in 1357 by Etienne Marcel, who was 
 Provost of the Merchants, a dignity somewhat simi- 
 lar to the Mayor of our days, so that he was really 
 
 73 
 
PKESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 the founder of Paris municipal government. Fran- 
 cis I laid the foundations of another Hotel de Ville 
 in 1533. There are noteworthy and beautiful things 
 to be seen in the Hotel de Ville, but they are mostly 
 modem. On the south side of the building is a 
 statue of Etienne Marcel, who fought hard for popu- 
 lar goverimaent and was assassinated in 1358. 
 
 The history of the Place de I'Hotel de Ville, which 
 used to be called Place de Greve, is practically the 
 history of Paris. Executions took place here for 
 five hundred years — until 1832. Many and many a 
 traitor's and sorceress's head has fallen here, as well 
 as those of criminals of better substantiated charac- 
 ter. Ravaillac, the assassin of Henri IV (1610), the 
 Marquise de Brinvilliers, the notorious poisoner 
 (1676), and Cartouche, the highwayman (1721), 
 were among the most picturesque criminals executed 
 here. In recent years the Place has mostly been the 
 scene of popular rejoicings, and it is particularly 
 lively on the occasions of the Fourteenth of July balls 
 for the people. Rulers and other distinguished visi- 
 tors to Paris, as well as Frenchmen who have singu- 
 larly distinguished themselves, are often received 
 with pomp and ceremonial at the Hotel de Ville by 
 the Municipal Council, with their president at their 
 head. 
 
 Behind the Hotel de Ville, with a barracks sepa- 
 rating them, stands the interesting and remarkable 
 Church of St. Gervais and St. Protais. They are, it 
 is said, the names of two twin brothers, who are sup- 
 
 74 
 
PARIS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 posed to have suffered martyrdom in the time of 
 ]S[ero. Rather legendary persons, they nevertheless 
 became quite popular in the early middle ages, were 
 made the patrons of various churches, and their story 
 Avas used as a subject by numerous distinguished 
 painters. There was a church on the same spot as 
 early as the sixth century, but the present edifice 
 was begun in 1212 and was remodeled in the six- 
 teenth century. It is a mixture of the flamboyant 
 Gothic and Renaissance. The interior, with its 
 lofty Gothic arches, affords a curious and charming 
 surprise in contrast with the severe Greek fagado. 
 
 On Good Friday, 1918, while a special musical 
 service was taking place at St. Gervais, and it was 
 crowded with people, the church was hit by a shell 
 from the German long-range gun. Falling upon the 
 capital of one of the columns, it brought down the 
 column upon the people, killing and injuring several 
 hundreds and doing great damage to the fabric. This 
 was one of the worst crimes committed by the Ger- 
 mans in their shelling and bombing of Paris. 
 
 An historic elm tree once grew under the shadow 
 of this church, beneath whose leafy canopy the early 
 kings used to sit to receive petitions and hear suits. 
 
 In this part of old Paris begins the Marais, as it 
 was called in the olden days when it succeeded the 
 island of the City as the center of Court and fashion- 
 able life. Take the Rue Francois Miron, close to 
 the church and stop at No. 68 — the Hotel de Beau- 
 vais, first getting a good view of it from the oppo- 
 
 75 
 
PKESEN^T DAY PARIS 
 
 site side of the street. Louis XIV gave this mansion 
 to his mother's favorite femme de chamhre, Cather- 
 ine Bellier, in return for services rendered. Cath- 
 erine married Pierre Beauvais. Passing through the 
 vestibule into the courtyard gives one an idea of 
 what an admirable piece of work it is, for it still 
 maintains its architectural dignity amid decayed and 
 sometimes unsavory surroundings. The ram's head 
 ornamentations are a playful reference to the maiden 
 name of Pierre Beauvais' wife. 
 
 Let us continue down this street, take the Rue 
 Jouy (on the left), and follow it till we come to 
 Rue Figuier. Passing down this thoroughfare of 
 seventeenth century dwellings, we come in a few 
 minutes to the finest relic of medieval Paris remain- 
 ing — a belated lingerer, indeed, of an age that has 
 passed. This is the Hotel de Sens, built (and very 
 well built, too) in 1474, when Louis IX was king. 
 It was the town house of the Archbishop of Sens, 
 was occupied a century or more later by Queen Mar- 
 got, the dfvorced wife of Henri IV, and has since 
 passed through many vicissitudes. In the time of the 
 Directory, tradition says, when it was a hostelry, the 
 "Lyons Mail" used to leave the yard. 
 
 Over a large part of this neighborhood once stood 
 the vast Palace of St. Paul, with its gardens, which 
 was built by Charles V. Several of the streets still 
 bear names having reference to these places, such as 
 Rue des Jardins, Rue des Lions (built on the site 
 of the former royal menagerie), Rue de Beautreliis, 
 
 76 
 
PAEIS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 and 90 on. Famous old Lonses which existed here for 
 ages have disappeared even in recent years. 
 
 Wo can retrace our steps, or wo can go as far as 
 the Rue St. Paul, which in a minute or two brings us 
 to the busy thoroughfare of Rue St. Antoine, which 
 leads into the Place de la Bastille. But if we are 
 wise and have the timo we shall turn off the Rue St. 
 Antoine and take the Rue Sevigne until we reach 
 the Musee Camavalet. This fine old building, with 
 its spacious garden, is now the museum of history of 
 Paris, and indeed, it is not easy to know Paris with- 
 out visiting it. It was built in 1544 by Lescot, the 
 architect of the old Louvre, and after passing through 
 various hands, was inhabited by Madame de Sevigne 
 for eighteen years (from 1677). There are four 
 rooms containing souvenirs of the siege of Paris, a 
 gallery filled with mementoes of the Revolution, be- 
 sides all sorts of historical souvenirs and relics, in- 
 cluding pottery, of the Gallo-Roman, medieval and 
 Renaissance periods. Souvenirs of iJsTapoleon, Mma 
 de Sevigne, and other distinguished persons abound, 
 and there are fine sculptures inside and out by Jean 
 Goujon. The name of Camavalet is taken from one 
 of the owners of the house, before the famous letter- 
 writer. (This museum can also be reached by taking 
 the underground railway to the St. Paul station.) 
 
 A stone's throw from this Museum, in the Rue 
 Yieille du Temple, is the building of the ISTational 
 Archives, which was once the home of the de Guise 
 family. A fortress stood here in the fourteenth 
 
 77 
 
PEESEIN^T DAY PARIS 
 
 century. The Archives contain some of the most in- 
 teresting historical documents in French history, 
 edicts, proclamations, trials^, parchments, seals, etc. 
 It would take us too far to describe some of the in- 
 teresting old houses in some of the streets in this 
 neighborhood, but there are many worthy of a visit. 
 A gem is the comer house, No. 54 Eue Vieille du 
 Temple, now a workman's tavern, with the beau- 
 tiful turret above it. At 'No. 87 is the National 
 Printing Works, once the house of Cardinal de 
 Eohan. The Duke of Orleans was assassinated in a 
 small impasse at Wo. 38 Hue des Francs Bourgeois. 
 No. 30 was once the home of Jean de Fourcy ; No. 
 25 was the home of Diane, Duchess d'Angouleme, 
 daughter of Henri II. 
 
 The Rue Vieille du Temple and the Boulevard du 
 Temple bring us to the Place de la Republique, 
 which we have already visited. Louis XVI and Ma- 
 rie Antoinette, it will be remembered, were impris- 
 oned in the Temple. 
 
 From the Place de la Republique to the Place de 
 la Bastille is a short walk down the Boulevard du 
 Temple and Boulevard Beaumarchais. Beaumar- 
 chais had a fine house here, and some of his comedies 
 were produced at a theater in the neighborhood, 
 which no longer exists. 
 
 In the middle of the Place de la Bastille is the 
 Column of July, erected to commemorate the Revo- 
 lution of July, 1830, and the fall of the Bastille, the 
 famous prison fortress, which stood on the western 
 
 78 
 
PAlilS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 side of the Place. Charles V built the Bastille par- 
 ticularly to defend his Palace of St. Paul; in later 
 years it was a State prison and weapon of oppres- 
 sion, until it was burned and destroyed by the Revo- 
 lutionary mob in 1789. It was one of the earliest 
 deeds of the Eevolution, and the fete of July Four- 
 teenth each year is especially to celebrate it. (Read 
 Carlyle again for this event.) The eastern limits of 
 the Bastille are marked in white stones in the road- 
 way near the opening of the Rue St. Antoine, but 
 none of the pile itself is left. The six hundred odd 
 patriots who are buried under the Colonne de Juillet 
 are not, however, those who fell in the great Revolu- 
 tion, but are the victims of the later rising, when 
 Paris again revolted, with much bloodshed, under 
 Charles X. The monument was erected a few years 
 later, and it is a glory of the French people that if 
 they have plenty of monuments celebrating military 
 victories, they have also not a few recording the tri- 
 umphs of the people over tyranny. 
 
 I^Tow it is worth while returning a little way down 
 the Rue St. Antoine, and taking the Rue dcs Tour- 
 nelles, which recalls the Palais des Tournelles, built 
 in 1390 near this spot by Charles VI. l^inon de 
 I'Enclos died in the Rue des Tournelles in 1706 at 
 ninety years of age. The Rue du Pas de Mule brings 
 us to that magnificent remnant of the sixteenth cen- 
 tury, the Place des "Vosges (which occupies ^the sit© 
 of the courtyard of the Palais dcs Tournelles). 
 Charles VI occupied the Palace; so did the Duke of 
 
 79 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 Bedford when he was Regent of France after the 
 death of Henry V of England. The last Monarch 
 to dwell here was Henri II, who was injured in a 
 tournament held in this court, dying a few days 
 later. After this, his widow, Catherine de Medici, 
 destroyed the Palace. As it now stands the square 
 is the work of Henri IV, and this center of the once 
 aristocratic Paris, where Kings and Cardinals came 
 and went, surrounded by their knights and squires 
 and noble dames, is now a playground for children 
 and a ''snoozing-" place for modest "rentiers," or re- 
 tired tradesmen, who are watched over by that ab- 
 surd statue of Louis XIII. Richelieu lived at No. 
 21 and the famous tragedienne, Rachel, at No. 13, 
 while No. 6 was the home of Victor Hugo while he 
 was writing many of his great works. His home is 
 now a museum of relics of the poet, owned by the 
 city of Paris. Several writers have remarked that 
 this is one of the things which are better done in 
 France than elsewhere. A visit to the Victor Hugo 
 Museum, full of souvenirs of his changeful life and 
 turbulent genius, gives one the impression that the 
 great man has only just stepped out of the place, 
 whereas so many museums of the sort leave one with 
 no impression except of dry bones and painful in- 
 discretions. 
 
 Quite close to the Place des Vosges (back in Rue 
 St. Antoine, No. 62) is the former residence of 
 Henri IV's great Minister Sully, dating from 1624. 
 Now let us go back about seventy yards, as far as 
 
 80 
 
PARIS OF THE MIDDLE AGES 
 
 tbo little Rue Beautrellis, from whence we take the 
 first street, Rue Charles V. Here at Xo. 12, a fine 
 house, lived the notorious Madame de Brinvilliers, 
 the poisoner. Here she perpetrated the long series of 
 murders for which she suffered torture and execu- 
 tion. 
 
 From the Place de la Bastille, or the Place des 
 Vosges, via Boulevard Beaumarchais, one gains Rue 
 de la Roquette, at the end of which is the celebrated 
 Pere Lachaise Cemetery. It is so called after the 
 Jesuit Confessor of Louis XIV and was opened as 
 a cemetery in 1804. Covering an area of one hundred 
 and ten acres, it contains over twenty thousand 
 monuments. The directory of Pere Lachaise itself 
 is quite a considerable volume, as many of the cele- 
 brated men who have died in France during the past 
 century are buried here, and the remains of some 
 who died before that date were transferred hither, 
 such as La Fontaine and Moliere. Passing down the 
 avenues one meets name after name that pulls one 
 up and evokes memories — Alfred de Musset, with 
 the weeping willow over his tomb, if one loves poetry ; 
 Chopin, if one is a musician ; Balzac, Thiers, Rachel, 
 Sir Sydney Smith, Auber, Arago, Rossini, Cousin, 
 the philosopher; Due de Morny, Cherubini, Suchet, 
 Bellini, Talma, the great actor; Scribe, the drama- 
 tist; Beaumarchais, ]\Iarshal Ney, Beranger, Oscar 
 "Wilde (removed hither from Bagneux Cemetery) — 
 what a ''God's acre" it is ! Some of the monuments 
 are very beautiful and reposeful, if others perhaps 
 
 81 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 are a little too imposing for modem taste. Bar- 
 tholome's superb monument to the Dead, in the cen- 
 tral avenue, should be inspected. 
 
 On All Saints' Day the Parisians make pilgrim- 
 ages to the cemeteries, with wreaths, and as many as 
 three thousand people visit Pere Lachaise every year 
 in those gloomy days of early ISTovember. There is 
 also a modern crematorium in Pere Lachaise. 
 
 At either end of the Cemetery is a Metropolitain 
 railway station, which will take one to any part of 
 Paris one wishes in a few minutes. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 THE AET, GAYETY AND GENIUS OF PARIS— THE 
 PARK MONCEAU, MONTMARTRE 
 
 We aro now familiar with the various ways of 
 getting to the Etoile, or Arc de Triomphe (perhaps 
 the most pleasant of all, enabling one to see the town 
 and the life at leisure, is one of those old-fashioned 
 horse "voitures" that amble up without too much 
 hurry). As I am arranging for you to see, first of 
 all, on this occasion the Pare Monceau, it is not abso- 
 lutely essential that you go to the Etoile, but the best 
 approach to it is from here down the Avenue Hoche. 
 Pare Monceau is the choice and secluded spot where 
 lovers meet in romances, and one wants to be a lover 
 again when visiting it, so dainty and suggestive of 
 reverie is the place. Its history doesn't matter a jot, 
 but its trees and green grass and tranquillity are 
 everything — yet it is only a stone's throw from fairly 
 busy thoroughfares. 
 
 The tone of the park is given by the exquisite 
 statues lingering like shadows of the past amid the 
 foliage. There aro monuments of Chopin and 
 Gounod, of Ambroise Thomas and Edouard Pail- 
 loron, the dramatist, author o; "Le Monde ou Ton 
 s'ennui." But the most pleasing is that of Guy de 
 
 83 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 Maupassant, whose stories are like the bitter-sweet of 
 life itself, and really it is his park. Under his bust 
 is a sitting figure of a modem young Parisienne, 
 graceful and thoughtful, reading one of his romances. 
 I have alrea'dy mentioned the statues of Paris, which 
 are better worth lingering over than such things are 
 in most cities. Though some of them are like 
 Madame Tussaud's "official" statues, making one feel 
 that the artist had to please his client and could not 
 therefore find much inspiration, yet on the whole the 
 statues and monuments of the "Ville Lumiere" 
 charm, attract and even astonish. Look on one of 
 the lawns of this park at the figure of a chubby bo^ 
 faun who is playing with his own tail ! What arcb 
 ness and humor there are in this little personage, wh(J 
 is certainly allied to do Maupassant and Pailleron. 
 I think people who live overlooking the Pare Mon' 
 ceau must have lived very good lives. 
 
 Another museum — the Musee Cemuschi — is in 
 the Avenue Velasquez, beside the park. It contains 
 a very fine and rare collection of Chinese and Jap- 
 anese art and antiquities, and was given to the city 
 by a gentleman of the name by which the museum, 
 goes. 
 
 If we leave the park by the gilded gates leading to 
 the Boulevard Malesherbes we shall shortly reach the 
 Church of St. Augustine, a handsome and massive 
 building, quite modem and containing a variety of 
 styles, but otherwise not specially interesting. On 
 the way we pass the statue of Shakespeare, presented 
 
 84 
 
AET, GAYETY AND GENIUS OF PAKIS 
 
 to the city by an English resident some years ago. 
 Parisians are not particularly fond of Shakespeare. 
 The statue of Joan of Arc in front of the church is 
 more interesting (it is a replica of the one at 
 Rheims). 
 
 This Shakespeare is the only statue in the city to 
 an Englishman, but as I have already pointed out, 
 there are several statues to Americans. 
 
 Now let us take the Boulevard Haussmann. On 
 the right at the comer of the Eue d'Anjou is the 
 Chapelle Expiatoire, which was erected by Louis 
 XVIII in memory of Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette 
 and the Swiss Guard, on the spot where stood the 
 Madeleine Cemetery, where they were first buried 
 (their remains were removed to St. Denis in 1815). 
 
 Following along the Boulevard to the St. Lazare 
 station (the station for St. Cloud, Versailles, St. 
 Germain, and other resorts in the West), and taking 
 the Eue St. Lazare, we come shortly to the Church of 
 La Trinite, modern and handsome, which has a fine 
 choir. There are white marble fountains in the 
 square in front of the church. La Trinite was not 
 hit by shell or bomb, but like many other buildings 
 in the city, it will be found to have been spattered by 
 bits of exploding shell or shrapnel. There is scarcely 
 any part of the city that escaped. 
 
 In the Rue Chateaudun we come to another church 
 — that of Notre Dame de Lorette, built in the style 
 of the early Christian basilicas at Rome. It is lavish- 
 ly decorated and contains some fine frescoes. The 
 
 85 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 Eue Lafayette is always interesting to visitors, be- 
 cause it is the route from the Gare du Nord. In this 
 street is the Church of St. Vincent de Paul, modern, 
 and also in the basilica style. (Mrs. Beale quaintly 
 says it is '^quite worthy of its titular Saint !" and as 
 he was known as the "friend of the poor," the re- 
 mark leaves one wondering what she meant!) Be- 
 sides paintings by well-known modern artists, it con- 
 tains a celebrated frieze by Flandrin, inspired by 
 the mosaics at S. Apollinare I^uovo at Ravenna. 
 
 Any of these streets leads us to Montmartre. Let 
 us take Rue Blanche, where the Re jane Theater is 
 (now in other hands and given another name), or the 
 Rue des Martyrs, in which Balzac used to live. 
 From the Place or Boulevard Clichy it is but a short 
 way, passing the former Hippodrome (now a cinema- 
 tograph) to the Montmartre Cemetery, the second 
 burial ground in the city as regards size and interest. 
 Scores of writers, musicians, actors, singers are 
 buried here — among them Offenbach, Berlioz, Alex- 
 andre Dumas fils, Ary Scheffer, Ernest Renan, the 
 two Goncourts, Stendhal, Charcot, the great doctor; 
 Horace Vernet, the painter of the Napoleonic epoch ; 
 Murger, the writer of "La Vie de Boheme," to whom 
 so many subsequent writers on Paris owe half their 
 stock-in-trade, and, perhaps the best known of all, 
 Heinrich Heine, with the tomb erected by the late 
 Empress of Austria, on which (before the war) there 
 was always a fresh wreath of violets. Matthew 
 Arnold's great poem on Heine's grave makes many 
 
 86 
 
AET, GAYETY AND GENIUS OF PAEIS 
 
 want to visit it who do not know or do not care for 
 the German poet's own work. 
 
 What can one say of Montmartre as to which there 
 is so much to be said, and of which so much has been 
 written ? Montmartre represents the brains, the wit 
 and the genius of France, as also its "blague" (or 
 '^blarney"). It is mostly the home of the artists and 
 of Bohemia, having years ago succeeded the Latin 
 Quarter in this respect. 
 
 To the casual visitor to Paris Montmartre stands 
 for night cafes and a certain kind of nocturnal gayety 
 divested of decorum, besides certain rather silly show 
 places to which tourists go because it is the fashion 
 to go to them when in Paris. But these places are 
 not what have made Montmartre popular among the 
 Parisians. 
 
 The real Cabarets of Montmartre were started 
 with the famous "Chat Noir" in 1882, at which the 
 gifted and witty Eodolphe Salis was surrounded by 
 artists, poets and wits, most of whom have since be- 
 come celebrated. Maurice Donnay, the Academi- 
 cian of to-day and a very clever dramatist, used to 
 recite his own poems here and make fun of the Acad- 
 emy, while Gustave Charpentier, the composer of 
 "Louise," played the piano. Besides music and verse, 
 the entertainments at the "Chat Noir" used to con- 
 sist of plays performed by miniature marionettes, 
 the parts being sung and accompanied by author and 
 composer, while the old-fashioned "shadowgraphs" 
 were revived and greatly developed. Salis himself 
 
 87 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 had a wonderful gift of improvisation, and the 
 cabaret soon earned a widespread fame and had to 
 take larger premises. Since then a number of cab- 
 arets have been started in Montmartre, some of 
 which, like the ^'Lune Rousse/' have continued the 
 traditions of the "Chat ISToir" and are great and de- 
 served favorites with Parisians for their wit, ingenu- 
 ity and the kind of broad humor beloved of the 
 French. Of course, one has to know the language of 
 Moliere pretty well to enjoy the fun at these places. 
 Most of the famous restaurants and night cafes 
 which are the nightly resorts of cosmopolitan roister- 
 ers (when they are open, which has not been the case 
 much since the war on account of the coal and other 
 restrictions) are on and around the Boulevard 
 Clichy. Most former visitors know the ''Rat Mort" 
 and the "Abbaye de Theleme." 
 
 ' Behind the Boulevard de Clichy is the Church of 
 the Sacre Coeur. Take one of the steep streets that 
 go up to the "Butte" de Montmartre, preferably the 
 Rue de Sevest from Boulevard Rochechouart. 
 ' This hill is considered to be sacred ground. The 
 name Montmartre has been given several origins; 
 some say it is "Mont Martis," the hill of Mars ; others 
 "Mons Martyrum," the hill of the Martyr. St. Denis, 
 a patron saint of Paris, was beheaded at the foot of 
 the hill, and, legend says, he rose, picked up his head 
 and carried it to the summit of the hill, where he 
 was buried. The hill at its highest point is 2,330 
 feet above the level of the Seine. It is worth the 
 
 88 
 
AKT, GAYETY AND GENIUS OF PARIS 
 
 climb (though you can also come by the funicular 
 railway) for the saie of the fine view of Paris to be 
 obtained hence, apart from the visit to the Sacred 
 Heart Church. 
 
 It was on Montmartre that the Commune broke 
 out, the Communists having taken possession of the 
 caimon on the hill on March 18, 1871. In May they 
 were dislodged ajid the batteries of the height were 
 turned against them in their refuges at the Buttes 
 Chaumont and Pere Lachaise. 
 
 The building of this Romanesque Church of the 
 Sacred Heart, with its Byzantine dome, was decided 
 on by the National Assembly in 1874, and the ex- 
 pense of it has been enormous, the foundations alone 
 costing four million francs. Public subscriptions and 
 the fees paid for visiting the crypt and other parts of 
 the church have defrayed these expenses. The Ba- 
 silica was not consecrated until 1891, and even then 
 was not finished. It must be confessed that the dis- 
 tant view of the Sacre Coeur is more interesting than 
 the near one, for the church is somber and has noth- 
 ing particularly attractive about it. Near by is the 
 oldest church in Paris — St. Pierre — said to have been 
 founded by Louis VI, but which at any rate belonged 
 to a Benedictine Monastery in the twelfth century. 
 St. Bernard is said to have been present at the conse- 
 cration. Little of this older edifice now remains, but 
 the marble columns in the church are supposed to 
 have formed part of a Temple of Mars built by the 
 Romans. 
 
 89 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 In former days Montmartre was celebrated for its 
 •windmills, and the two famous dancing halls, the 
 Moulin Rouge (who has not been there whose ac- 
 quaintance with Paris does not date from quite re- 
 cent times ?), and the Moulin de la Galette, are jocu- 
 lar references to the fact. The heyday of these places, 
 however, dates from even before the youth of the 
 present generation — the days when the "cancan" was 
 supposed to be a "naughty" dance and famous "high- 
 kickers" like "Nini-Patte-en-l'Air" ("Nini with the 
 paws in the air") used to divert the town. Dancing 
 of a somewhat riotous variety, followed by copious 
 suppers, with special dishes and drink, has always 
 been a favorite diversion of the Parisians, and there 
 were numerous dancing halls in various parts of the 
 city. These dancing halls were very different from 
 the fashionable dancing places in vogue to-day, which 
 are frequented by quite another class. 
 . Montmartre has many painters' studios and sculp- 
 tors' ateliers. When the war broke out and artists 
 of the humbler class, students and models fell upon 
 evil days, a society opened cooperative kitchens to 
 cater for these people at a very low charge, or noth- 
 ing at all, if they could not afford anything (the 
 funds being helped out by subscriptions). Large 
 studios were used for the purpose, and the guests 
 often helped in the preparation of the meals. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 ARISTOCEATIO 'AND PIOUS PARIS— THE LUXEM- 
 BOURG, THE PANTHEON, ST. ETIENNE, 
 ST. SULPICE 
 
 The Boulevard St. Germain begins, as we have 
 already seen, on the left bank of the Seine, in front 
 of the Chamber of Deputies. It is the longest boule- 
 vard on this side of the river. Quite recently por- 
 tions of it have been renamed, the names of famous 
 generals having been adopted, just as Avenue du 
 Trocadero has been renamed Avenue du President 
 Wilson. It seems a pity that the time-honored names 
 should go, much as one may admire the generals of 
 the great war. 
 
 By the St. Germain quarter is meant the quarter 
 of the aristocracy and the higher bourgeoisie, as this 
 boulevard, but more particularly the neighboring 
 streets. Rue de Crenelle, rue de I'Universite, Rue de 
 Lille, running about parallel with it, were made the 
 home of the Parisian aristocracy after its removal 
 from the Marais. In Rue de Grenelle (at No. 18) 
 was the home of Josephine, it being the mansion of 
 the Beauharnais family; the Duchesse d'Estrees 
 lived at Iso. 79^ which is now the Russian Embassy, 
 and Adrienne Lecouvreur was buried at the back of 
 
 91 
 
PEESEXT DAY PAEIS 
 
 "No. 115, in unconsecrated ground. The Rue de 
 I'Universite, as also the Rue St. Dominique, are also 
 full of historical houses or of mansions built by the 
 heads of distinguished aristocratic families. 
 
 Continuing along the Boulevard St. Germain, the 
 first big building which we find on the right is the 
 Ministry of War, which suffered a good deal during 
 the war from shell fragments and shrapnel. At the 
 entrance to the fine new Boulevard Raspail is the 
 striking statue of Danton, the Revolutionary leader — 
 the man who in France's darkest hour, in September, 
 1792, rallied the wavering courage of the Assembly 
 with his cry for "I'Audace! — Encore de VAudace! et 
 toujour de VAudace." He was arrested six months 
 later by order of Robespierre in his house, which 
 stood on the spot where this statue now is. 
 
 Facing the statue is a high doorway, with the in- 
 scription over it, "Cour de Commerce." Here we 
 breathe the spirit of the Revolution, for at ISTo. 8 
 Marat's sheet, "L'Ami du Peuple," was printed (it 
 is still a printer's), and opposite, at No. 9, a Mon- 
 sieur Guillotin experimented with his decapitating 
 machine on sheep ! His guillotine has ever since been 
 the official instrument for the execution of criminals 
 in France. At No. 4 is a locksmith's shop, in which 
 is to be found a curious relic of very old Paris — the 
 base of one of the towers of the wall of Philip Au- 
 gustus. Turning through an old gateway here we 
 come to the quaint old-fashioned Cour de Rouen, or 
 "de Rohan," as it is usually spelled nowadays, but 
 
 92 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AND PIOUS PARIS 
 
 this is wrong, for it is the site of the town house of 
 the Archbishop of Rouen. Before that it was the 
 garden belonging to the physician of Louis XI, which 
 had been built on the ruins of the city wall of Philip 
 Augustus. Further on to the right is a house built 
 over an arch, which was built by Henri II and occu- 
 pied by Diane de Poitiers. 
 
 At the corner of Boulevard St. Germain, which 
 leads to the Rue de Rennes, we come to another of 
 these old-world courts — the Cour du Dragon. Over 
 the high archway a dragon perches on the fagade. 
 This is eighteenth century Paris, with the gutter 
 running in the middle of the paving-stones. The 
 old shops are given up to the industry of small goods 
 in iron, as they have been for two centuries past. 
 At the end of the Cour is an old house which gives 
 one a very good idea of the domestic architecture in 
 the time of Louis XIII. 
 
 We return to the Boulevard, and visit the Church 
 of St. Germain des Pres (or St. Germain of the 
 Fields), parts of which date from the eleventh cen- 
 tury. Take a good view of it from the other side of 
 the Boulevard, for it is a very picturesque building — 
 full of character and charm — as well as an extremely 
 interesting one. St. Germain, according to the story, 
 was a Bishop of Paris in the sixth century; he was 
 afterwards canonized. Childebert, son of Clovis, 
 was then king, and he brought a great deal of spoil 
 home from his wars in Spain, including the "Tunio of 
 St. Vincent." He built a church to receive it, which 
 
 93 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 was dedicated to St. Vincent, but when St. Germain 
 died and was buried here, and many miraculous cures 
 of the sick took place around his tomb, the name was 
 changed. His church was called "of the Fields/' to 
 distinguish it from the other St. Germain, at the 
 Louvre. In the middle ages there was a monastery 
 contiguous, and most of what one sees of the church 
 now has been rebuilt or restored — several times in- 
 deed. IN'evertheless St. Germain des Pres is still the 
 oldest church in Paris, as a part of the nave dates 
 from the eleventh century. 
 
 Some characteristic streets of old-time Paris are 
 to be found opening on one's left as one proceeds east- 
 ward along the Boulevard St. Germain — Rues de la 
 Petite Boucherie, Echaude, de Seine, de Gregoire de 
 Tours, and the Rue de I'Ancienne Comedie, at the 
 end of which one gets a glimpse of the dome of the 
 Institut de France. 
 
 Let us, however, cross the Boulevard St. Germain 
 and take the Rue Bonaparte, which will shortly bring 
 us to another church — that of St. Sulpice, in the 
 Place of the same name. IlTote the atmosphere 
 around here. One might be in a pious provincial 
 town, so quiet and solemn is this quarter, with its air 
 of devotion and scholarship, its bookshops, largely de- 
 voted to theological and pious publications, and others 
 for the sale of church ornaments and articles of de- 
 votion. It is quite a different city from Montmartre, 
 for instance, with its shabby Bohemianism, or the 
 Boulevard's half busy, half "flaneur." 
 
 94: 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AND PIOUS PARIS 
 
 The center of the Place St. Sulpice is adorned with 
 a fine fountain ; those four great preachers around it 
 seem to be watching over the neighborhood to prevent 
 anything like frivolity. Approached from several 
 points, the Church of St. Sulpice is picturesque and 
 impressive, but it is cold and classical inside and can- 
 not compete in beauty or interest with numerous other 
 Paris churches. The church dates from 1646, the 
 foundation stone having been laid by Anne of Aus- 
 tria. It is famous for its organ. 
 
 The large building which takes up one side of the 
 square was formerly a seminary (Ernest Renan, au- 
 thor of the Life of Jesus, studied here), and when 
 the war broke out it was being prepared to become a 
 picture gallery and receive the overflow from the 
 Luxembourg. During the war it housed refugees and 
 soldiers. 
 
 At the end of the Rue Bonaparte we come to the 
 Luxembourg Gardens. This is a beautiful Renais- 
 sance garden, in which there are some striking and 
 interesting statues, and three remarkable fountains, 
 which the visitor should not miss — the Medicis foun- 
 tain, with sculptured groups of Polyphemus surpris- 
 ing Acis and Galatea ; the Fountain of Leda, repre- 
 senting the metamorphosis of Jupiter into a swan ; and 
 on the south side, en route for the Observatory, the 
 Carpeaux Fountain, with sea-horses by Fremiet, alle- 
 gorical figures bearing a sphere by Carpeaux, and 
 water-spouting dolphins. There are statues in the 
 gardens to many distinguished literary people and 
 
 95 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 others, while the statues to the Queens of France, 
 though perhaps not too reliable, are nevertheless in- 
 teresting. 
 
 The Luxembourg Museum, at the Eue de Vaugi- 
 rard gate of the gardens, has been called the "ante- 
 room" to the Louvre, as it contains sculpture and 
 paintings by recently deceased or still living artists, 
 including numerous Americans. The sculpture in 
 the Luxembourg is particularly notable for the nu- 
 merous examples of Rodin to be found here, but there 
 is also fine work by Meunier, Fremiet, and other 
 great modern sculptors. The painting includes works 
 by Degas, Manet, Monet, Renoir, Puvis de Chavan- 
 nes, Harpignies, Rosa Bonheur, Eugene Carriere, 
 Whistler and other representative artists. 
 
 A little further along the Rue de Vaugirard and 
 we come to the Palace of the Luxembourg. Erected 
 in 1612 for Marie de Medici, Queen of Henri IV, 
 and remaining a royal residence until the Revolu- 
 tion, when it became a prison, and afterwards again 
 the seat of Government under the Directorate and 
 Consulate (when magnificent fetes were given within 
 its walls), it has been the headquarters of the Senate 
 since the time of N'apoleon I, except for a brief in- 
 terval under Louis Philippe. The President of the 
 Senate resides in the wing known as the Petit Luxem- 
 bourg. 
 
 A few steps beyond the Palace, on the left, is the 
 Odeon Theatre, the home of classical as well as mod- 
 eni plays; it is the fourth State-subventioned theater. 
 
 96 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AND PIOUS PARIS 
 
 Notice the approach to the theater from the Boule- 
 vard St. Germain, and do not miss the statue of Au- 
 g'lCT, the dramatist (author of numerous plays popu- 
 lar with the French public) in front of the theater, 
 but especially the charming and graceful figures 
 around the pedestal — Comedy and the intensely Pa- 
 risian boy, with the player's mask brandishing the 
 whip of satire. There is quite an old-world air about 
 the neighborhood of the Odeon and the bookshop that 
 occupies the arcade around it. At No. 1 Place de 
 rOdeon once stood the Cafe Procope, the most famous 
 of the cafes of the eighteenth century, which, says 
 Jules Janin, was the "boudoir, the school, the Acad- 
 emy and the Champ de Mars of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury, the rendezvous of the most violent and the most 
 timid minds of the time." It was particularly fa- 
 vored by Voltaire and all the wits of both before 
 and after his time. 
 
 Opposite the Senate, at the top of the Rue de Tour- 
 non, where in the sixteenth century there used to be 
 a horse market, is the Restaurant Foyot, a house fa- 
 vored by epicures and largely patronized by the Sena- 
 tors. 
 
 Just round the Luxembourg Gardens, to which we 
 now return, is the Boulevard St. Michel, which is the 
 real Latin Quarter, the home of the students and (in 
 the time when they were so much written about by 
 Murger and others) of the "grisette," or Mimi-Pin- 
 son (called "grisette" from her gray stuff frock). 
 Turning up the Rue Soufflot, we see facing us the 
 
 97 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 Pantheon (Soufflot was the name of the architect). 
 The foundation stone of this building was laid by 
 Louis XV on the site of a church dedicated to St. 
 Genevieve, the Saint having been buried here in the 
 Church of the Holy Apostles in 511. Still unfinished 
 when the Revolution broke out, the Convention secu- 
 larized it, converting it into a temple. Louis XVIII 
 restored it to religious uses, but it was again secu- 
 larized in 1885, when Victor Hugo was buried there. 
 The first great man to be buried here was Mirabeau, 
 but his remains were removed and scattered later by 
 fickle mobs, as were those of Marat. One can, how- 
 ever, visit the tombs in the vaults, under the guidance 
 of a guardian (one of the drawbacks to visiting monu- 
 ments in and around Paris is the irritating presence 
 of guardians, and in the vaults of the Pantheon there 
 seems no earthly reason for it, as no one can steal 
 tombs, as the "Gioconda" was stolen from the Lou- 
 vre), of Voltaire, Rousseau, Lazare Carnot, Marshal 
 Lannes, President Sadi-Carnot, Emile Zola and Rou- 
 get de Lisle. The dome, which rivals St. Paul's, Lon- 
 don, and St. Peter's, Rome, is two hundred and sev- 
 enty-nine feet high, four hundred and twenty-five 
 steps leading to it. The fagade is reminiscent of the 
 Pantheon at Rome. Do not miss the splendid fres- 
 coes by Puvis de Chavannes, representing the life of 
 St. Genevieve and other subjects, the paintings by 
 J. P. Laurens and other artists, or the "Penseur" of 
 Rodin. 
 
 Just behind the Pantheon, to the left, is the fasci- 
 98 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AND PIOUS PARIS 
 
 Dating church of St. Etienne du Mont (or St. Ste- 
 phen of the Hill), often also known as the Church of 
 St. Genevieve. The Abbey of St. Genevieve, founded 
 by Clovis, once stood here, and the Saint is supposed 
 to have been buried close by. That rugged tov^er — 
 Tour de Clovis — which is seen on the right is a relic 
 of the old building. The present church was built 
 early in the sixteenth century, in late Gothic, though 
 finished in Renaissance, which had meanwhile be- 
 come the vogue. The interior is very picturesque, 
 with its mixture of the two styles, its fine "Jube" or 
 rood loft (the only one in the city), a magnificent 
 pulpit, and the shrine of Genevieve, where candles 
 are perpetually burning. The tomb, the contents of 
 which were taken out and burned during the Revo- 
 lution, is the object of interesting pilgrimages, and 
 one can rarely visit it without finding dozens of peo- 
 ple praying around it, while it is said still to be po- 
 tent in working cures. There are some fine chapels 
 in the church, and beautiful stained glass, including 
 the l^end of the wine press. It also contains epi- 
 taphs of some of France's celebrities, notably Racine 
 and Pascal. 
 
 The large building on the north side of the Place 
 du Pantheon is the St. Genevieve Library. The Rue 
 St. Jacques, running parallel with the Boulevard St. 
 Michel, is one of a number of very interesting streets 
 to be found in this neighborhood. No. 289 was once 
 the homo of Madame du Barry, the beauty of humble 
 birth, who became the mistress of Louis XV and lost 
 
 99 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 her head in the Terror. Farther up the street is the 
 Hospital of Val-de-Grace. 'No. 269 was a monastery 
 of English Benedictines, whither the body of James 
 II was brought in 1701. No. 284, once a Carmelite 
 Convent, was the last refuge of another royal favor- 
 ite, Louise de la Valliere, who lived here for thirty- 
 six years. Under the streets hereabouts are the Cata- 
 combs. 
 
 If we now return to the Boulevard St. Michel and 
 continue on our right, we come to the Sorbonne, or 
 University of Paris, the seat of the Faculties of Liter- 
 ature and Science. Founded in 1256 by St. Louis, 
 at the desire of his confessor, Robert Sorbon, it was 
 originally meant as a theological college for poor stu- 
 dents. The University was under the Monarchy, al- 
 ways surrounded with the greatest care and accorded 
 special privileges, and Louis X, to justify ever fresh 
 privileges granted to it, in the eyes of his courtiers, 
 said: "The faith owes its preservation to it, society 
 its elegance and its manners, and the entire world its 
 knowledge and enlightenment." How important 
 Paris was as a seat of learning in the middle ages 
 there are many evidences to attest. There were for- 
 ty-two colleges in 1465 (according to Victor Hugo) ; 
 while in 1648, according to another authority, Paris 
 possessed fifty colleges, sixteen hospitals, and one 
 hundred and ninety churches and convents. Riche- 
 lieu erected a building for the theological faculty, but 
 it has been almost entirely rebuilt since 1885, with 
 the exception of the church. In the interior there 
 
 100 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AND PIOUS PARIS 
 
 aro some fine paintings and sculptures. The Grand 
 Amphitheater will hold thirty-five thousand persons. 
 Puvis do Chavannes' fresco on the wall is famous. 
 In front of the church is a statue of Auguste Comte, 
 and inside the tomb of Richelieu. 
 
 The College de France is in the Rue des Ecoles, at 
 the corner of Rue St. Jacques. It was founded by 
 Francis I, and its forty chairs are occupied by some 
 of the most eminent men in the various branches of 
 science, history, literature, etc. In the garden is a 
 statue of Dante, who is said to have been a poor stu- 
 dent at the University, some of his biogTaphers claim- 
 ing that he spent about two years in Paris, living in 
 the neighboring Rue do Bievre. 
 
 Descending the Boulevard St. Michel, at its junc- 
 tion with Boulevard St. Germain, is the Cluny Mu- 
 seum, in some respects the most interesting museum 
 in France. It occupies the site of an old Roman pal- 
 ace, supposed to have been founded by the Emperor 
 Constantine Chlorus, who resided in Gaul (229-306). 
 Julian was proclaimed Emperor here, and the earlier 
 Kings of the Franks lived in the Palace. 
 
 In the course of time the place fell into ruins, and 
 only the thermal baths now remain. The Abbot of 
 Cluny, in Burgundy, bought the ruin in 1340, but it 
 was not until a century later that the present superb 
 hotel was erected as a town residence for the Bishops 
 of Cluny. In 1537 Madeleine, the daughter of 
 Francis I, was married here to James V of Scotland. 
 In 1833 the house was bought by a M. Sommerand, 
 
 101 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 a wealthy connoisseur, to house his collection of me- 
 dieval and Renaissance works of art, and ten years 
 later the Government purchased the hotel and the col- 
 lection. The tapestries, French and Italian pottery, 
 della Robbia ware, carved woodwork of all kinds, ceil- 
 ings, chimneys, metal work, lace, ivory, carriages, Se- 
 dan chairs, etc., make it one of the finest artistic col- 
 lections in Europe. 
 
 Now let us follow Boulevard St. Germain to the 
 right as far as the Quai and continue along the Quai 
 as far as the bridge (Pont d'Austerlitz), and we come 
 to the Jardin des Plantes, the botanical and zoo- 
 logical gardens of Paris and museum of natural his- 
 tory. Its comparative anatomy and natural history 
 collections founded by Buffon, have grown to be the 
 most complete in the world. There are a large li- 
 brary and an amphitheater, where free lectures are 
 given. The cedar (forty feet in circumference) is 
 famous. It was brought from Lebanon by the scien- 
 tist in his hat, and as water was scarce, he often de- 
 prived himself to give to the sapling. 
 
 Between tlie Cluny Museum and the river are two 
 churches worth visiting. St. Severin, in the street 
 of the same name, on the other side of the Boulevard 
 of St. Germain, is so shut in between a rookery of 
 crowded houses, that it is somewhat difficult to find ; 
 nevertheless it is very interesting, dating as it does 
 from the thirteenth century, though it has been added 
 to from time to time. It contains some fine Gothic 
 work, but the west portal was brought to it from an- 
 
 102 
 
ARISTOCRATIC AN^D PIOUS PARIS 
 
 other church that was demolished on the Cite in 1837. 
 There is a curious souvenir in connection with this 
 church ; on a portion of the ground once stood a grave- 
 yard, and here, in 1461, we are told, the first opera- 
 tion for stone was carried out on a man condemned to 
 death, the operation being so successful that Louis XI 
 pardoned his crime. 
 
 Off the Rue St. Jacques, near the Sorbonne build- 
 ing, is a little street, St. Julien-le-Pauvre, and a few 
 yards down this (right) is a gateway taking one into 
 the Church of St. Julien-le-Pauvre. Though not 
 much to look at now, and though very considerably 
 diminished from what it once was, for at one time the 
 church covered all this space (the wall on the left in 
 the courtyard was once part of the northern wall of 
 the nave, and the well we can see was once within 
 the church), this church is of great antiquity. The 
 first religious house on the spot was destroyed by the 
 Norsemen; three hundred years later (in the twelfth 
 century) the church was rebuilt and a big priory re- 
 established. In the middle ages St. Julien was the 
 place of assembly of the Paris University. In the 
 seventeenth century it became attached to the old 
 Hotel-Dieu as its chapel. It was used as a salt ware- 
 house during the Revolution, while now it is given 
 over to a congregation of the Greek church. 
 
 Here is the heart of the old-time Latin Quarter. 
 Mass at St. Julien-lc-Pauvre at five o'clock in the win- 
 ter was the signal for the commencement of the 
 classes, by candle-light. We are close to the Place 
 
 103 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 Maubert, whicli was one of the most notorious places 
 in the middle ages (it is now very altered and en- 
 larged, as the Boulevard St. Germain runs through it, 
 and the market occupies the site of a monastery). 
 Another once disreputable street in a disreputable 
 neighborhood is the Rue des Anglais ( !). The Rue 
 Eouarre is so-called from the straw (fourrage) on 
 which the students used to sit or lie to listen to lec- 
 tures. The statue near the market, in the Place Mau- 
 bert, by the way, is of Etienne Dolet, one of the great 
 men of the Renaissance, who was burned on this spot 
 for his advanced teachings. 
 
 If we take the Rue Monge from this square, or 
 from Rou des Ecoles, a few yards brings us to the 
 Square Monge, where there is a notable statue of 
 Villon, the vagrant poet of Louis XI's time. In the 
 Rue ISTavarre, a little farther along, there is a gate- 
 way admitting to the Arenes de Lutece. This Ra- 
 man amphitheater, constructed, it is supposed, about 
 the second century, was accidentally discovered about 
 1870, and further researches in 1883 resulted in the 
 portion now seen being laid bare, though some two 
 thirds of the structure are still believed to be under- 
 ground. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 THE PARIS OF PLEASUEE— THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE, 
 THE RACE COUESES 
 
 To reach the Parisians' great pleasure park, the 
 Bois de Boulogne, the easiest way is to take a train 
 on the Underground railway to the Porte Maillot, or 
 the Port Dauphine (the one at the end of the Avenue 
 de la Grande Aniiee, the other close to the entrance 
 to the Bois in the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne). 
 One should, however, not omit to see the Avenue du 
 Bois de Boulogne, a charming residential quarter for 
 wealthy people and a favorite promenade for those 
 who wish to meet their friends, to show their smart 
 toilettes, or be in "the swim," especially on Sundays 
 ■ — in the morning for the more leisured classes, and 
 in the afternoon for the lesser bourgeois and the work- 
 ers. Walk, then, down the Avenue du Bois de Bou- 
 logne from the Arc de Triomphe; there are always 
 promenaders, horsemen, and children with their "nou- 
 nous." There are many fine houses in the leafy ave- 
 nue; note the replica of the Trianon (on the right), 
 built for Madame Anna Gould, now Duchesse de Tal- 
 leyrand. 
 
 Of the other broad avenues starting from the Place 
 de FEtoile, the Avenue Victor Hugo leads to the 
 
 105 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 statue of Victor Hugo ; the Avenue de la Grande Ar- 
 mee, so called because it is a processional route, leads 
 to the suburb of Neuilly, the Seine, and scenes of 
 fighting in the War of 1870-1. Here is one of the 
 numerous gates of Paris in the fortifications. Paris 
 is soon to lose her fortifications, which are, of course, 
 useless against modem artillery and the latest engines 
 of warfare. Their place is to be taken by gardens 
 and allotments, and one of the results will be to give 
 the city much more breathing space and "elbow 
 room." 
 
 There was formerly a chateau at Neuilly, which 
 was the residence of Louis Philippe, but it was de- 
 stroyed in the Revolution of 1848. There is a statue 
 (behind the Mairie) to Parmentier, who introduced 
 the potato into France. A famous and popular fete 
 every year is the Neuilly Pair, which is held in sum- 
 mer in the Avenue de JSTeuilly, a prolongation of the 
 Avenue de la Grande Armee, and covers nearly two 
 miles. Parisians go out in tens of thousands to visit 
 this fair and enjoy its somewhat childish pleasures. 
 
 The best way of seeing the Bois de Boulogne is, 
 first of all, to drive through it in a horse carriage, 
 telling your driver to go rather slowly in order that 
 you may enjoy the charming woodland glimpses 
 which the wood affords. 
 
 Formerly part of the extensive forest of Rouvray 
 and Crown property until 1848, the Bois was taken 
 over by the Municipality in 1852 and made into the 
 present park. During the Revolution it was the 
 
 106 
 
THE PARIS OF PLEASURE 
 
 refugo of many who were proscribed, and at all times 
 it was a famous resort of duelists, many a famous 
 encounter liaving taken place here. Even ladies have 
 crossed weapons in quiet corners, and in the time of 
 Louis XV the Marquise de Nesles and the Comtesse 
 de Polignac exchanged pistol shots on account of the 
 Due de Richelieu. The fine trees were cut down in 
 the War of 1870, to prevent the Germans from using 
 them as hiding-places for guns. 
 
 The Allee de Longchamp, or Avenue des Acacias, 
 which your cab will probably first take, is the most 
 fashionable promenade in the Bois; it is about one 
 and one-half miles in length. On fine Sunday morn- 
 ings there is quite a parade of beauty and fashion 
 and gallantry here ; it might be called the Rotten Row 
 of the French capital. The flower battles which have 
 taken place here in recent years are quite charming 
 functions. This portion of the woods used to be 
 called the "Empress's Alley," and during the Second 
 Empire it was the resort of all the wealth and ele- 
 gance of the town. Emile Zola, in La Curee, 
 gives a brilliant picture of the place in those days. 
 "It was four o'clock," he writes, "and the Bois awoke 
 from the heaviness of the hot afternoon. Along the 
 'Avenue do I'lmpcratrice clouds of dust rose up, while 
 in the distance could be seen the stretches of ver- 
 dure bordering the slopes of St. Cloud and Su.- 
 resnes, crowned by the gray mass of Mont Valerien. 
 The sun, which was still high up over the horizon, 
 poured down, filling the hollows between the foliage 
 
 107 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 with a shower of gold, lighting up the higher 
 branches, changing this ocean of foliage to an ocean 
 of light. The varnished panels of the carriages, the 
 flashes of light from pieces of copper and steel, the 
 brilliant colors of the toilettes passed at the regular 
 trot of the horses and cast on the depths of the wood 
 a broad moving band, like a ray fallen from the sky, 
 which followed the curves of the road. The sheen 
 of sunshades shone like metal moons." 
 
 Change horse-carriages for silent and elegant mo- 
 tor cars, and the picture would not be wrong in the 
 early summer of 1920. 
 
 At the end of the Allee de Longchamp is the water- 
 fall known as La Cascade. A fine view of the coun- 
 try round the Seine, including St. Cloud and Su- 
 resnes, can be had from the path above this water- 
 fall. 
 
 In front is the Longchamp race course. The wind- 
 mill is all that remains of the famous Abbey of Long- 
 champ, founded by Isabelle, sister of St. Louis, in 
 1256. 
 
 Races were organized under Louis Philippe in the 
 Bois. The Due d'Orleans, Due de Nemours, Lord 
 Seymour, Due de Fitz James used to lay small wagers, 
 such as bottles of champagne, as M. Georges Cain 
 reminds us, on the performances of their horses, and 
 gradually the races became a Parisian "event." The 
 Jockey Club was then only in its infancy. The most 
 famous race contested at Longchamp is the Grand 
 Prix, run on a Sunday at the end of June and worth 
 
 108 
 
THE PARIS OF TLEASURE 
 
 300,000 francs; and tho sight of the hundreds of 
 thousands of Parisians who attend this "classic" 
 event wending their way there in cabs, carts, omni- 
 buses, or by any other method that may present it- 
 self, is a sight not easily forgotten. Grand Prix Day 
 for many years was a perfect bacchanalia, and won- 
 derful stories have been told of the Lucullan feasts 
 given in the evening by lucky winners or fortunate 
 owners. 
 
 The restaurants in the Bois are inclined to be dear, 
 to say the least of it, but one always gets the best. 
 The Armenonville is a favorite with foreigners as 
 well as wealthy Parisians. The Pre-Catelan is so- 
 called after a famous troubadour, Catelan, who 
 was assassinated here in the days of Philippe le Bel. 
 Though one does not go any more to drink warm 
 milk fresh from the cow at the Pre-Catelan farm, 
 the place is always crowded on fine days for after- 
 noon tea. There is an open-air theater, where per- 
 formances take place in summer. 
 
 But on fine Sundays, during most of the year, the 
 Bois de Boulogne is all a big restaurant, or picnick- 
 ing place, whole families bringing their bags or bas- 
 kets of provisions, with bread and wine (which is put 
 in the earth to keep cool), and games or books, and 
 camping there most of the day, in improvised "sa- 
 lons" under the canopy of green leaves. 
 
 The part of the Bois on the Neuilly side is known 
 as Madrid, a chateau of this name having been built 
 hero by Francis I. It was latterly a hotel and res- 
 
 109 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 taurant, but has now been turned to other uses. A 
 visit should be made to Bagatelle, on the route to 
 !Neuilly, a charming miniature chateau, built in one 
 month by the Comte d'Artois as the result of a wager 
 made with Queen Marie Antoinette, and hence called 
 "Folie Bagatelle." In later years it belonged to Sir 
 Richard Wallace, who added to it, especially the 
 kitchens and domestic apartments, which are placed 
 in raised mounds on either side of the main build- 
 ing. On his death it was left to the municipality, 
 the Wallace collection of pictures, largely of the 
 French school, being left to London. Picture and 
 other exhibitions take place in the chateau from time 
 to time, and flower shows in the gardens, the display 
 of roses and sweet peas each year being noted. 
 
 The Jardin d'Acclimatation, or Zoological Gar- 
 dens, should be visited. There is an interesting col- 
 lection of animals, the chief idea of the gardens be- 
 ing to acclimatize useful animals and plants. A lit- 
 tle tramway runs to the gardens through the Bois 
 from the Porte Maillot. 
 
 Boating is to be had on the two fine lakes — the Lac 
 Superieur and the Lac Inferieur, while there are 
 sports grounds, where tennis, polo and other sports 
 are practiced. 
 
 One should finish one's visit to the Bois at the 
 pretty little race course of Anteuil, famous for its 
 steeplechasing and hurdle-racing. Some forty race 
 meetings are held here annually, the most famous 
 race being the Grand Steeplechase de Paris. 
 
 110 
 
THE PAKIS OF PLEASURE 
 
 If one liu3 been walking one can now with advan- 
 tage return to town by leaving the Bois close to the 
 Auteuil race course and taking the tram (No. 16) 
 back to the Madeleine Church. If, however, you are 
 on the other side of the Bois, you will find it best 
 to take the Metropolitan railway at the Porte Dau- 
 phine, just outside the principal gate. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE STOMACH OF PAEIS— THE CENTEAX, MARKETS, 
 ST. EUSTACHE, MEMORIES OF THE PAST 
 
 What Emile Zola called the "Ventre de Paris" is 
 one of the most interesting and instructive quarters 
 of the great city. Round the Halles Centrales (or 
 Central Markets) is a perfect town and a huge popu- 
 lation devoted to the feeding of Paris, for besides 
 the markets themselves whole streets surrounding 
 them are given up, some to fish, or "langoustes," 
 some to fruit, others to meat, cheese, and so on. 
 
 A good center from which to start to see all this 
 is again the Chatelet (with its station of the under- 
 ground railway) ; we cross the Rue de Rivoli and 
 proceed down the Rue St. Denis (which is the mid- 
 dle ages was the longest, handsomest and richest 
 street in Paris), until we come to the Halles Cen- 
 trales. These markets, built in 1851, occupy twen- 
 ty-two acres of ground and have under them twelve 
 thousand storage cellars. It is especially interesting 
 to visit these immense provision stores at about five 
 o'clock on a summer's morninjr. All night loner lines 
 of carts full of market garden produce and other 
 foodstuffs have been wending their way through the 
 silent streets of the city toward the Halles, and it 
 
 "112 
 
THE STOMACH OF PARIS 
 
 is surprising what immense preparations are needed 
 for the feeding of a big city like this. 
 
 A favorite pastime of people who have had a 
 "night out" at Montmartre used to bo to finish up at 
 the markets, to witness a life so different from their 
 own, watching the porters and fishwives at their la- 
 bors. The fashion on these occasions was to indulge 
 in food and drink (onion soup is a great favorite) 
 at ono of the somewhat rough-looking restaurants 
 surrounding the market, among honest market peo- 
 ple, "cochers de fiacre," and shady characters; — and 
 fancy stories are often told of the desperate charac- 
 ters with whom elegantly dressed "mondaines" have 
 rubbed shoulders in the presumed "thieves' kitch- 
 ens" on these thrilling occasions! It can bo made 
 amusing once or twice in a long while, if one is in 
 gay company and brings one's carriage back filled 
 with fruit and flowers ; but as for the desperate char- 
 acters, we may be sure the police know where they 
 are as well as we do. The "forts des Halles," or 
 "strong men" of the HaBes, with their immense hats, 
 are picturesque figures. 
 
 Sunday morning is another interesting time to 
 visit the Halles, and it is curious how picturesque the 
 handling of large masses of provisions can be. Many 
 and many a housewife comes to the Central Markets 
 to do her modest shopping and get what is to be 
 had cheap aftqr the big purveyors and restaurateurs 
 have made their choice. Economy is the watchword 
 
 113 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 of the French cuisine, and the small purse is as well 
 looked after here as the more elastic one. The 
 French "menagere," too, likes to huy her bit of vege- 
 table fresh each day, rather than lay in a stock. 
 
 An equally important reason for visiting this 
 neighborhood is the Church of St. Eustache — a 
 *^vision never likely to be forgotten," as one writer 
 on Paris says, and certainly there is but one St. Eus- 
 tache in the world, as many have remarked when 
 first beholding it. St. Eustache, or Eustace, is the 
 Saint who, as a Roman soldier, saw a vision of Christ 
 between the horns of the stag that he was hunting, 
 and so was converted to the faith. St. Eustache, 
 with its wonderful pillars — it is the largest church 
 in Paris after the Cathedral — and the swell of its 
 mighty organ tones, is surely calculated to arouse de- 
 votion where none existed before, for its very pillars 
 seem to soar into infinitude. It was begun in 1532, 
 but not consecrated until 1637, and its particular 
 fascination doubtless arises from the extraordinary 
 and vigorous combination of the Gothic and Renais- 
 sance styles. An earlier church on the spot was dedi- 
 cated to St. Agnes, and her tradition haunts the 
 place. Note the enormous size of the interior and 
 its perfect proportions. Note also that this is the 
 great musical church of Paris, and that there is a 
 chapel to St. Cecilia, the patroness of music and the 
 inventress of the organ. There is a statue to Pope 
 Alexander I, who first sanctioned the use of holy 
 
 114 
 
THE STOMACH OF PARIS 
 
 water; look at tie Baffled demons on the base of the 
 statue, fleeing from the holy water/ 
 
 In the neighboring Rue de la Ferronerie it is in- 
 teresting to notice a tablet recording that in this 
 street Henri IV was assassinated by Ravaillac. The 
 Rue Quincampoix is a very old street, in which Law,' 
 the Controller-General of Finance, though a Scots- 
 man, in the eighteenth century established his bank 
 and promoted his company of the Indies, which 
 ruined so many. 
 
 Let us cross the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau to 
 the Rue Etienne Marcel. iNear to the little Rue 
 Frangaise there are some iron railings, behind which 
 is a grim rectangular tower. This tower is known 
 as the Tour ds Jean-sans-Peur (Tower of Fearless 
 John). It is all that remains of the famous Hotel 
 do Bourgogne, built in the thirteenth century, this 
 fearless John having added his tower in 1405. A 
 fortress in the first place, in the game of rivalry be- 
 tween the Dukes of Burgundy and Orleans, the Ho- 
 
 * An excellent guide for those who wish to study the Paria 
 churches in detail is the charming book of Mrs. Sophia Beale, 
 The Churches of Paris. She gives exact architectural de- 
 scriptions, and tells us all the histories of the churches and all 
 the legends of the Saints (as, for example, at St. Eustache, the 
 legends of the hunter saint, and the maiden St. Agnes). Grant 
 Allen's book on t'aris devotes long and loving details to the 
 ])icture galleries, particularly the Louvre, but as to many other 
 points he says, "You will get all you want from Baedecker" — 
 wliich, of course, is no longer the case, if. indeed, it ever was. 
 The serious student of the antiquities of Paris can be recom- 
 mended to the books of M. Georges Cain, of which there is a 
 longish series, as also to the works of Rochegude, Robida and 
 others. But the history of Paris is contained in many books, 
 from Michelet and Carlyle to Victor Hugo and Huysmans. 
 
 115 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 tel de Bourgogne afterwards became a theater of 
 Passion plays, and then of "profane" plays. Some 
 of Corneille's and Eacine's masterpieces were pro- 
 duced here. 
 
 Let us now follow the Rue Etienne Marcel, on 
 the right from the old tower, till we come to the Rue 
 du Montorgueil. Look for ISTo. 72 or No. 64. Both 
 will lead to the same old courtyard — that of the 
 once celebrated inn of the "Compas d'Or." For 
 nearly four centuries this has been an inn, though 
 now fallen from its high estate, and the vast timber- 
 shed was a shelter for coaches. There is a haunting 
 charm about the old place, as with a little imagina- 
 tion and some knowledge of Victor Hugo and Du- 
 mas one can evoke a picture of the fussy departure 
 of the team of Normandy horses over the rutty 
 roads of eighteenth century France, or their clat- 
 tering and no less fussy arrival in the dark hours 
 of a winter's morning. 
 
 From the Rue du Montorgueil we pass through 
 the curiously named Rue des Petits-Carreaux, to the 
 Rue Reaumur. Turning to the right, we come oppo- 
 site to a narrow little passage which leads into a 
 courtyard called the "Cour des Miracles" — a no 
 man's land of ages ago. Victor Hugo, in his Notre 
 Dame de Paris describes it in the middle ages as 
 a noisome lair of mendicants and rogues — a haunt of 
 debauchery and vagabondage, where cripples were 
 "manufactured" for begging purposes and "coups" 
 were planned on the peaceful inhabitants of Paris. 
 
 116 
 
THE STOMACH OF PARIS 
 
 In those times it was a somewhat secluded spot, not 
 as now in the center of a busy industrial quarter, 
 and it was the scene of orgies of the worst descrip- 
 tion. ISTot until the eighteenth century was this 
 plague spot eradicated. 
 
 Issuing through the Kue Damiette and the Place 
 and Eue du Caire, we come to the fine broad Boule- 
 vard du Sebastopol. In front are the Gaiete Thea- 
 tre and the Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers (Con- 
 servatory of Arts and Crafts). Entering the court- 
 yard we shall see a remarkable Gothic building, 
 which was once the refectory of the monks of St. 
 Martin-des-Champs, now used as a public library 
 and reading room. The Monastery was suppressed 
 at the Revolution, and has been turned into this in- 
 stitution for technical education. An interesting 
 museum of technical appliances, models, minerals, 
 fabrics and relics is contained in this building, 
 which is also the patents office. Close by here, at 
 the comer of the Eue Reaumur, is another fine 
 church — St. ]^icolas-des-Champs (note how the 
 population in olden days always distinguished be- 
 tween their monuments in town and those outside). 
 The church dates from 1420, but it was enlarged in 
 the sixteenth century. 
 
 Let us turn back down the Rue St. Denis and fol- 
 low it until we come to the Square des Innocents, 
 recognized by its well-known fountain, three sides 
 of which are embellished by that great sculptor, Jean 
 de Goujon. The fountain once stood against the 
 
 117 
 
PKESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 ChurcH of tlie Innocents, wliicK was demolished in 
 the eighteenth century; hence only three of the 
 sides are decorated by Gonjon, another sculptor hav- 
 ing been found to finish the work when the struc- 
 ture was moved here. The square of the Innocents 
 was once the cemetery in which for some six hun- 
 dred years the population of Paris was buried. The 
 bodies of the poor were put together in enormous 
 subterranean pits. "Each pit," writes M. Georges 
 Cain, "would contain as many as fifteen hundred 
 bodies." They were reached by deep shafts, closed 
 by planks. Two or three of such pits were always 
 open. The good La Fontaine was buried here on 
 Thursday, April 14, 1695. It was only in 1780 
 that the place was closed for burials, in consequence 
 of the danger to public health. Some of the old 
 shops on the south side of the square are the ancient 
 charnel houses, and there are some gruesome stories 
 told of this old place. The bones removed from the 
 cemetery were taken away and placed in some dis- 
 used quarries on the other side of the river, thus 
 forming what is known as the catacombs. 
 
 But we have come back to where we started — to 
 the center of the bustle and activity. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 PARIS IN DANGER 
 
 Paeis was twice menaced by the invaders during 
 the war — in 1914 and 1918, and both times the 
 city was saved throngh the stand made by the Allied 
 troops in and around the Marne. In September, 
 1914, the Germans had reached Senlis and Chan- 
 tilly — at the gates of Paris. They were dropping 
 leaflets from Taube aeroplanes announcing that 
 Paris would soon be taken. They were also dropping 
 bombs — small, \'icious little bombs, which were not 
 so murderous as those that followed, but which nev- 
 ertheless did great damage, injuring children and 
 others. There was very little resistance to them in 
 those days, and people sitting in the cafes or walk- 
 ing about the boulevards on those summer evenings 
 could watch them flying over the city and wonder 
 when the gray-coated legions of the barbaric Kaiser 
 would bo in the capital. 
 
 Defenses were put up at the gates of Paris and 
 around the fortifications, but we learned almost im- 
 mediately afterwards, from the experiences of Ant- 
 werp, Liege and Maubeuge, that they would have 
 been of very little avail against the terrible artillery 
 that the Germans were using. 
 
 119 
 
PEESENT DAY PAKIS 
 
 People began to leave Paris in hundreds of thou- 
 sands, passing days in the train, or in any convey- 
 ance they oould find — or even on foot — pouring to 
 the south, the southwest, or to England and America. 
 But other thousands came into the city — refugees 
 and others (though most of these were sent to other 
 parts of the country), so greatly increasing the diffi- 
 culties of transport at a time when most of the trains 
 and roads were encumbered with the movements of 
 the military. 
 
 It took days sometimes before people could find 
 room in the trains, and the stations and offices were 
 besieged by eager excited crowds demanding help, 
 information or privileges. The foreign consuls and 
 embassies were also thronged with those asking for 
 protection, for help to get out of the country, and 
 so on. Ambassador Herrick, who had turned his 
 home in the Rue Frangois-Premier into a depot of 
 the American Clearing House, was a very pillar of 
 strength and comfort for his fellow countrymen and 
 women. He advised all who could and had nothing 
 particularly to do here to leave France; for those 
 who had to remain he had posters printed in French 
 and German to affix on the premises of neutrals. 
 
 The Government and the Presidency left Paris 
 for Bordeaux, which was to be the capital of the 
 Bepublic, as it had been in 1870-1871. The great 
 offices of State, Parliament, the Embassies and consu- 
 lates of belligerents, banks and other important es- 
 tablishments all went to the second city in France. 
 
 120 
 
PARIS IN DANGER 
 
 Paris was now an "entrenched camp," under the 
 Military Governor, in whom all power was vested, 
 and was to he defended against the invader. Tho 
 President and Government issued proclamations to 
 the inhabitants before leaving. 
 
 The rush out of the city became a stampede. Peo- 
 ple fought not only for places in the trains but for 
 places in the long lines waiting at the ticket offices. 
 Porters were not available, cabs and "taxis" were 
 rare indeed, and whole families had to carry their 
 own baggage long distances to the stations. Escape 
 by private cars was stopped by the military authori- 
 ties ; the cars were wanted for other purposes. Trav- 
 eling was terrible. It took twenty-four hours to 
 make the journey to Bordeaux, which in normal 
 times was done in seven. Those who went farther 
 south spent days in the train. People died in the 
 trains — children and the old or weak — through sus- 
 pense, fright or fatigue. Refugees and members of 
 big families sometimes lost each other, and it took 
 months of work on the part of big organizations to 
 bring them together again. 
 
 But, on the other hand, never was food so plenti- 
 ful, cheap or good as in those days. The population 
 of Paris being gone, and transport difficult, or prac- 
 tically impossible, the country people in the north- 
 east hurried their produce to market ; delicious fruit 
 was not kept back, as often happens, and poultry 
 were killed off when young and succulent to avoid 
 their falling into the hands of the advancing armies. 
 
 121 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 All fashionable Paris, as well as all official Paris, 
 was at Bordeaux. Never was there such an extraor- 
 dinary provincial city as Bordeaux was that autumn. 
 The capital was wonderfully quiet, more than two 
 thirds of its ordinary inhabitants having left, as 
 well as foreigners and the extra population brought 
 by the war. Cafes and shops were closed by the 
 hundreds. For those who remained behind whole 
 quarters of Paris were like a city of the dead. 
 
 Still, the enemy did not reach Paris. The great 
 city was saved almost by a miracle — the miracle of 
 the Battle of the Marne, organized by JofFre and Gal- 
 lieni, the famous Military Governor of Paris, who 
 invented the remarkable expedient of rushing re- 
 enforcements up to the front in Paris taxicabs. The 
 Battle of the Marne was won by the French, aided 
 by the British, It should logically have been the 
 end of the war, for the Germans were beaten on the 
 Marne, and their chances were never again as good 
 as in that first iiish. 
 
 Four years passed — four years of battling and 
 bloodshed, and history repeated itself. It was the 
 summer of 1918. During these four years the capi- 
 tal had been the chief object of the enemy's thrusts, 
 but she had not again been seriously menaced. In 
 the summer of 1918 the Germans made another su- 
 preme effort. 
 
 For months Paris had been bombarded — during 
 the day by the long-range guns; at night by Gothas 
 and other murderous aeroplanes, which drove Paris 
 
 122 
 
PAEIS m DANGER 
 
 to the cellars. Mucli damage was wrought and war 
 insurance companies were doing big business. The 
 city was greatly damaged during that spring and 
 autumn. One shudders to think what might have 
 happened had the enemy been able to get nearer and 
 make even more determined attacks on the city, as 
 they threatened to do. As it was, shells and bombs 
 fell in the very heart of Paris — there was not a 
 quarter and scarcely a street that escaped. 
 
 Then the great German offensive began — the of- 
 fensive of despair, that was to be their last effort. 
 To those in the city the enemy seemed as formidable 
 as ever. Every one knew what they had done and 
 could still do. At any rate, they were again rush- 
 ing on to the capital, and towns which had been re- 
 captured had again fallen to the tenemy. Once 
 more the capital was in great danger, and once more 
 it began to empty. 
 
 Still Paris was pretty full on the fourteenth of 
 July, when there was a wonderful procession of 
 Erench and Allied troops through the streets of the 
 city — men who had come from the battles that were 
 raging so near — and were going back to them. 
 
 In those July days the guns could be heard again 
 growling, roaring, echoing all through the night — 
 several nights, as they had done in 1914. One night 
 the guns were louder than ever, and one or two days 
 of suspense followed, as one waited for what was 
 going to happen. 
 
 This was the offensive of Marshal Foch, which 
 123 
 
PEESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 lasted for some anxious weeks. Paris was confident, 
 and at last the victory came, and Paris smiled again. 
 
 On the eleventh of November, 1918, the guns from 
 the forts announced the signing of the armistice, 
 which was the \'irtual peace. "Issue from your 
 proud reserve, citizens of Paris," said a manifesto 
 of the Paris municipality, "and come into the streets 
 to rejoice." 
 
 For months after that the Champs Elysees and 
 the Place de la Concorde were lined with captured 
 German guns, tanks, and aeroplanes. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 THE PAEIS HOMES OF FAMOUS AMERICANS 
 
 A FEW lines about the former homes of famous 
 Americans will aid the tripper in his sight-seeing 
 in the citj. 
 
 Thomas Jefferson, who left Boston for Paris in 
 July, 1Y84, took apartments in what was then called 
 the Cul-de-Sac Tetebout, now the Rue Taitbout, off 
 the Boulevard des Italiens. His home became the 
 resort of French officers who had fought in the 
 American Revolution. 
 
 Benjamin Franklin first stayed at the Hotel Ham- 
 bourg, in the Rue de I'Universite. Later he removed 
 to the Rue Grande Verte, now Rue de Penthievre, 
 off Faubourg St. Honore. From 1777 to 1785 he 
 resided at the corner of the Rue Singer and Rue 
 Raynouard, Passy. The house is now a school, and 
 there is a tablet on the wall to record the philoso- 
 pher's connection with it. 
 
 General Lafayette died in 1834 at a house which 
 is now No. 8 Rue d'Anjou (see tablet on wall). He 
 lies buried in Picpus Cemetery. 
 
 Paul Jones lived in the Rue Vivienne, where Jef- 
 ferson, when Minister to France, visited him. Later 
 
 125 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 he lived at l^o. 40 Rue de Tournon, near the Luxem- 
 bourg. The house (No. 19) still stands. 
 
 Count Rumford spent the last ten years of his 
 life at Auteuil — !N"o. 59 Rue d'Auteuil, which he 
 bought from Mme. Helvetius, the friend and fre- 
 quent hostess of Dr. Franklin. He died there in 
 August, 1814. 
 
 Longfellow, during his stay in Paris as a student, 
 lived at No. 49 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, in the Latin 
 Quarter. He spent a month at Auteuil. 
 
 "William Morris Hunt, the painter had a studio at 
 "No. 3 Rue Pigalle, Montmartre, in the "fifties." 
 
 Margaret Puller stayed at the Hotel Rougemont, 
 Boulevard Poissonniere. 
 
 Augustus Saint-Gaudens had a studio in the Fau- 
 bourg St. Honore, and lived in the Boulevard Pe- 
 reire. In 1897 he had a studio at No. 3 Rue de Bag- 
 neux. 
 
 John Howard Payne wrote "Home, Sweet Home," 
 at No. 156 Galerie des Bons-Enfants, Palais Royal, 
 in 1823. He also lived at No. 89 Rue Richelieu. 
 
 James McNeil Whistler had a studio at Rue 
 Notre Dame des Champs; later (1861-1862) on the 
 Boulevard des Batignolles. In 1892 he settled at 
 No. 110 Rue du Bac. 
 
 Dr. Evans's house, to which the fugitive Empress 
 Eugenie went, was at the corner of the Bois de Bou- 
 logne and Avenue Malakoff; it no longer exists. 
 
 President and Mrs. Woodrow Wilson, during their 
 stay in Paris for the sittings of the Peace Commis- 
 
 126 
 
PARIS HOMES OF FAMOUS AMERICANS 
 
 sion, occupied Prince Murat's house, placed at their 
 disposal by the French Government, in the Rue 
 Monceau, opposite the gate of tlie Park. On their 
 return, after a visit home, they occupied the house 
 of the well-known dramatist, Francis de Croisset, No. 
 11 Place des Etats-Unis. The Hotel Crillon, Place 
 de la Concorde, was the headquarters of the Ameri- 
 can Peace delegation. At No. 78 Rue de I'Universite 
 the many conferences took place between Colonel 
 House, Mr. Lloyd George and M. Clemenceau. 
 
 General Pershing's headquarters were for a time 
 at No. 45 Avenue Montaigne; his private residence 
 was at Cours-la-Reine. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 PARIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 Theee are many delightful excursions at a little 
 distance from Paris, but within easy reach by train, 
 tramway or other means. 
 
 ViNCENNEs can be reached by train from the 
 Place de la Bastille or by tramway from the Louvre. 
 It is the most popular park near Paris after the 
 Bois de Boulogne, being easy of access for the large 
 working class population living on this side of the 
 city. The park has twenty-three hundred acres. In 
 the thirteenth century it was a wild forest, used by 
 Louis IX and his favorites for hunting. The race 
 course near the Bois is the largest in the Paris re- 
 gion. The chateau, which in the twelfth century 
 was a royal residence, is now an artillery depot, and 
 in its courtyard military executions still take place. 
 The Due d'Enghien was executed there in 1804. 
 
 La Malmaison can best be reached by the tram- 
 way from the Porte Maillot to St. Germain, which 
 stops at Reuil or Malmaison. The charming little 
 chateau of La Malmaison was the favorite residence 
 of Napoleon. Josephine resided here after her di- 
 vorce until her death in 1814. Napoleon made it his 
 
 128 
 
PARIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 headquarters for a short while after the Battle of 
 Waterloo, but left it on the approach of the Prussian 
 troops. The chateau was bought by a wealthy con- 
 noisseur, M. Osiris, who installed the ISTapoleonic 
 Museum, and presented some years ago to the nation, 
 and an attempt has been made to restore the in- 
 terior to the condition in which it was when the poor 
 fallen Empress lived there. Many relics which had 
 left the country have been brought back, and there 
 is a pleasant day in store for the admirer of Napo- 
 leon who can spare time to visit it, or even for the 
 mere lover of the atmosphere of a dignified and pic- 
 turesque past. Josephine lies in the neighboring 
 church of Eueil, with her daughter, Queen Hor- 
 tense, mother of Napoleon IIL 
 
 Maelt-le-roi, further on the same line (about 
 sixteen miles from Paris) , on an elevated position on 
 the south bank of the Seine, is an old royal resi- 
 dence, Louis XIV having had a chateau here which 
 was destroyed in the Revolution. The ruins and 
 the park are interesting, as is the huge "Abreuvoir," 
 or watering-place for the horses. There are fine 
 walks in the forest. This is now the shooting pre- 
 serves of the President of the Republic. Near by is 
 the aqueduct built under Louis XIV to convey to 
 Versailles the water raised by the hydraulic machine 
 at Marly. 
 
 St. Denis should certainly be seen. Formerly the 
 burial place of the Kings of France, it is now a 
 busy manufacturing suburb five miles from Paris. 
 
 129 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 (Take train from the Gare du ISTord. The tramways 
 from Trinity Church or the Madeleine are conveni- 
 ent, but take a long time.) 
 
 The Cathedral is the great object of interest. In 
 275 A. D. a chapel is supposed to have been erected 
 here over the grave of St. Dionysius or St. Denis, 
 the first Bishop of Paris. There was a basilica on 
 the spot in the seventh century, which was replaced 
 in 1140 by the present Cathedral, which was re- 
 stored in 1230 in the pure Gothic style. Almost 
 entirely ruined during the Revolution, it was again 
 restored by that restorer-at-large of medieval art, 
 Viollet-le-Duc. 
 
 The Westminster Abbey of France, probably no 
 spot contains so many souvenirs of royalty and chiv- 
 alry. In the twelfth century Louis VI hung up his 
 oriflamme banner, the standard of St. Denis; in the 
 fifteenth century Joan of Arc hung her banner in the 
 Cathedral. Henri IV adjured Protestantism, and 
 !N^apoleon and Marie Louise were married at St. 
 Denis. During the Revolution the wall of the crypt 
 was broken down, and the remains of the kings, 
 from Dagobert to Louis XV (covering a period of 
 eleven centuries) were taken out and thrown into a 
 pit dug near by. The remains were replaced by 
 Louis XVIII in 1817, and the remains of Louis 
 XVI and Marie Antoinette were also transferred 
 hither from the Madeleine Cemetery. Much has 
 been done by devoted antiquarians to restore the 
 Cathedral and the tombs to what they once were, and 
 
 130 
 
PARIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 it is a wonderful object lesson in Erencli history, as 
 well as ecclesiastical history. There are tombs of 
 Dagobert I (died C),'38), the founder of the Abbey, 
 whose soul, as the legend pictured on his tomb re- 
 lates, was stolen by demons and afterwards rescued 
 by St. Denis (the tomb was probably erected as a 
 sort of shrine by St. Louis) ; of Louis XII and his 
 spouse; of Henri II and his Queen, Catherine do 
 Medici; of Queen Fredegonde, of the children of 
 St. Louis, and a very elaborate one of Francis I, 
 that magnificent Monarch of the Field of the Cloth 
 of Gold, who brought the Renaissance from Italy. 
 
 During the war St. Denis was a center of war 
 manufactures, guns, ammunition, cars and tanks 
 being made here. Consequently it suffered severely 
 at the hands of the enemy both from air raids and 
 the long-range gun. 
 
 St. Cloud is a beautiful suburb to the west of 
 Paris, overlooking the Seine and the Bois de Bou- 
 logne. ( Trains from St. Lazare station ; trams from 
 the Louvre or the Porte Maillot.) A palace erected 
 here in 1572 was bought by Louis XIV and rebuilt. 
 Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette inhabited it, and 
 in one of the rooms Napoleon proclaimed himself 
 First Consul, after dispersing the assembly of five 
 hundred. Bliicher established his headquarters at 
 St, Cloud in 1815, and the capitulation of Paris was 
 signed here. Later it was the residence of Napoleon 
 III. During the War of 1870-18Y1 after being bom- 
 barded from Mont Valcrien, St. Cloud was occupied 
 
 131 
 
prese:^tt day paeis 
 
 by the Prussians, the chateau, barracks, and part of 
 the town having been burned down in October, 1870. 
 The fine old park is now one of the favorite holiday 
 resorts of Parisians ; it contains nearly one thousand 
 acres. From the top of the plateau, called the ''Lan- 
 terne," there is a magnificent panoramic view of 
 Paris, and the fountains which play on two Sundays 
 per month in summer, are a great attraction. 
 
 One of the pleasantest ways of coming down here 
 used to be by the little boats ("bateaux mouches") 
 on the Seine, but at the time of writing this service 
 has for some time been suspended. 
 
 A charming walk through St. Cloud park takes 
 one to Sevees^ at the entrance to the park. Here is 
 the celebrated porcelain manufactory. It has been 
 Government property since 1759, when it was pur- 
 chased to encourage ceramic art in France. The 
 museum contains a fine collection of Medieval and 
 Renaissance porcelain, works by Palissy, the great 
 potter, and Italian and Oriental ware. 
 
 Maisons-Laffitte (about ten miles from Paris) 
 is a favorite summer residence of Parisians. The 
 seventeenth century chateau was once the property 
 of Comte d'Artois (Charles X) ; the property of 
 the State, it is now a museum of decorative art. The 
 former grounds are cut up into summer villas for 
 Parisians. Near the Seine is the race course, where 
 many important flat races are held. There is an im- 
 portant horse-training center, with quite an Anglo- 
 American colony. 
 
 132 
 
PAKIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 St. Geemain-en-Laye, a royal borough, -where a 
 royal palace has existed from very early times. The 
 chapel and chateau were originally built by Louis, 
 son of Charlemagne. Francis I rebuilt and en- 
 larged the chateau. Louis XIV was born here 
 (1638), and another reason for the little town's 
 having a sense of pride is the fact that Alexandre 
 Dumas wrote the Three Musketeers here at the Hotel 
 of the Pavilion Henri IV, on the edge of the cliff 
 (all that remains of Henri II's chateau). The Mu- 
 seum in the palace contains a very valuable pre- 
 historic and archaeological collection. 
 
 When James II of England was exiled, Louis 
 XIV, who had removed the Court to Versailles, gave 
 the St. Germain Palace to the English King, and he 
 died there in 1701 and was buried in the church 
 (step in and see the tomb, erected by George IV). 
 
 Napoleon established a school of cavalry here, 
 which is now the museum. St. Germain is particu- 
 larly favored as a holiday resort by Parisians on ac- 
 count of the famous terrace, with a view extending 
 across many miles, and the forest, extending to the 
 quaint little town of Poissy, where St. Louis was 
 born in 1226. 
 
 Versailles is reached by trains from the stations 
 of St. Lazare or the Invalidos; by trams from the 
 Lou\Te or the Place de la Concorde. Motors usually 
 go through the park of St. Cloud, and it is an agree- 
 able drive. 
 
 Versailles and its wonderful park constitute the 
 133 
 
PRESENT DAY PAEIS 
 
 most splendid ex-royal residence in tlie world. 
 There had been a hunting lodge here used by Louis 
 XIII. This Palace had much to do with the out- 
 break of the Revolution; or at any rate, if nothing 
 could have prevented that cataclysm, the extrava- 
 gance of the Court, leading to onerous taxation, 
 heaped the fuel on the fire which finally led to the 
 conflagration. Built and first inhabited by the Roi 
 Soleil ("the Sun King"), its historic associations 
 cover a period of over two hundred and twenty-five 
 years. Over 1,000,000,000 francs are said to have 
 been spent on the construction of the Palace and 
 park, to say nothing of its upkeep, while thirty thou- 
 sand men and sixty thousand horses were engaged 
 in leveling the terraces of the garden and making a 
 road to Paris. The Palace was made the perma- 
 nent residence of the Court by Louis XIV in 1682 
 — it had up till then been at St. Germain. It sup- 
 ported the magnificence of the Pompadours and Du- 
 barrys and their satellites for a century. One fine 
 day the Palace was wrecked by the market women 
 of Paris, and Royalty left it in haste. ISTapoleon I 
 found it too expensive to repair, but Louis Philippe 
 restored the building and founded the historical pic- 
 ture gallery and museum, the idea being that it 
 should be a collection illustrative of the "glories of 
 Prance." That Monarch spent a further 15,000,000 
 francs on the scheme. 
 
 In 1870 it was the headquarters of the Prussians 
 (who used part of it as a hospital), and William I 
 
 134 
 
PARIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 was proclaimed here Emperor of Germany. The 
 surrender of Paris was arranged at the Chateau, 
 and the Government kept its headquarters here until 
 1879. In one of the great halls the National Assem- 
 bly, consisting of members of the Chamber of Depu- 
 ties and the Senate, meet to elect the President of 
 the Republic. 
 
 In 1783 was signed at the Palace the Treaty ter- 
 minating the American Revolution, while in 1919 
 was signed between the Allies and the Germans the 
 Treaty terminating the War of 1914-18, which — one 
 hopes — swept the Hohenzollerns from the face of 
 Europe and returned to France the two provinces of 
 Alsace and Lorraine, which had been torn from her 
 in 1871. It is not the least important event in the 
 history of Versailles Palace. 
 
 Versailles is in truth a wonderful museum of 
 French history, more especially of the seventeenth 
 and eighteenth centuries, though one must remem- 
 ber that what it chiefly illustrates are the formalism 
 and the artificiality of French court life — the age 
 of artificial nature, formal art, and women given 
 over to powder and patches and affectation. Those 
 who visit the Palace in detail (and one ought 
 to do so) will consult detailed guide books, and there 
 is ample to see — the King's and Queen's apartments, 
 where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette lived in 
 their artificial splendor, whence later they cowered 
 as they watched the growing rage of the Revolution- 
 ary mob, and whence finally they were taken away 
 
 135 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 bj the "Tricoteuses" ; the magnificent Galerie des 
 Glaces, one of the finest rooms in existence (two hun- 
 dred and forty feet long, having seventeen windows 
 looking out on the garden), with ceilings painted by 
 Lebrun illustrative of the victories of Louis XIV, 
 which was once the ballroom; the hall, where there 
 take place the meetings of the National Assembly, 
 and many others, besides the splendid gardens, park 
 and lakes which still exist as they were laid out by 
 Lenotre/ The best view is obtained from the top of 
 the terrace at the rear of the Palace. The playing 
 of the fountains, which takes place only once a month 
 in summer, is a gorgeous spectacle which attracts 
 thousands of sight-seers. 
 
 Magnificent as the Palace of Versailles is, and 
 beautiful as is the park, one can have but a very 
 faint conception of the splendor of the place under 
 Louis XIV. Half the kingdom must have been in 
 the service of the Royal family in some capacity or 
 other. In the "Almanach Royal" nine hundred sec- 
 retaries of the King were mentioned, and these 
 gilded halls must have been a very hotbed of in- 
 trigue. 
 
 The etiquette that surrounded the Kings of 
 France was something sacred and terrible, but also 
 ridiculous and cruel. There was a different stand- 
 ard of etiquette for each one of the royal residences 
 
 ^ M. de Nolhac, for many yeara the curator of Versailles, i» 
 also one of the most learned and gifted historians of the 
 Palace and its epoch. 
 
 136 
 
PAEIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 — Marly, Triauon, Compiegue; at Versailles it was 
 more formidable tliau aii^^vhere else. All this cere- 
 monial was set up by the nobility in order to insure 
 tlioir own privileges and rights. Though the King 
 might infringe the laws, he dared not disregard the 
 etiquette to which he was a slave. One of the great- 
 eat days in the life of the Due du Maine was when 
 by royal decree he was accorded the privilege (in 
 1723) of taking the royal shirt from the Grand 
 Chamberlain at the royal levee and passing it to 
 the King! This privilege was reserved for Princes 
 of the blood royal. Marshal de Richelieu could 
 hand a "robe de chambre" or hat. There was a 
 whole ceremonial for the royal repasts, and it was 
 a less serious matter that the King should go without 
 his "bouillon" than that it should be served by some 
 one who was not entitled to present it. When the 
 country was sunk in misery and seething with revo- 
 lution, poor foolish Louis asked his counselors if 
 nothing could be done, and they told him nothing 
 mattered except his Majesty's importance and com- 
 fort. 
 
 Xorth of the Grand Canal is an enclosure contain- 
 ing the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon. 
 
 The pretty villa known as the Grand Trianon was 
 built by order of Louis XIV for Mme. de Maintc- 
 non. Mansart, the great architect, was the author 
 of this as of the Palace and Chapel of Versailles, the 
 dome of the Invalides and other great buildings. 
 The Grand Trianon contains some interesting curi- 
 
 137 
 
PEESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 osities, and in a building beside it is a collection of 
 State vehicles and saddlery, for those who are inter- 
 ested in such things. The Petit Trianon was built 
 for Mme. du Barry by the architect of Louis XV. 
 It seemed a long way in those days from the Tria- 
 nons to the guillotine on the Place Concorde ! Marie 
 Antoinette afterwards occupied the Petit Trianon 
 and had the gardens laid out in English style with 
 an artificial lake. The "Hameau," close by, is a 
 collection of small rustic cottages which Marie An- 
 toinette had built as a plaything, and here she and 
 her ladies and gallants prettily played at being peas- 
 ants and milkmaids (in powder and patches). It 
 was another version of the fiddling of Nero ! 
 
 Plenty of time, it will be seen, must be given, to 
 the visit to Versailles. 
 
 FoNTAiNEBLEAu coustitutes One of the most inter- 
 esting excursions out of Paris (about thirty-seven 
 miles, from Gare de Lyon). The forest of Fon- 
 tainebleau is one of the finest and largest in France, 
 being nearly fifty miles in circumference. It has 
 always been a haunt of painters, some of whom are 
 famous in French art. The village of Barbizon in 
 the forest has been a home of artists since the days 
 of Millet, Rousseau, and others, who made it famous, 
 but there are many other homes of artists, French 
 and foreign, in the small villages around the forest. 
 
 The Palace of Fontainebleau is chiefly associated 
 with the name of Francis I and what he did for 
 French art. Though it was a fort as far back as 
 
 138 
 
PARIS BEYOXD THE WALLS 
 
 the twelfth centurv', Francis built most of the pres- 
 ent edifice, Henri IV adding a certain portion. 
 Fontainebleau was the favorite summer residence of 
 Napoleon, and a number of outstanding royal events 
 have taken place here — Louis XIII was born, Louis 
 XV married, Napoleon III baptized, and the Due 
 d'Orleans married in 1837. The visitor is shown the 
 hall where Napoleon wrote his abdication before 
 leaving for Elba and the Cour des Adieux, where he 
 bade farewell to the Grenadier Guards before leav- 
 ing. On the same spot, eleven months later, he re- 
 viewed the same troops, after his escape and before 
 marching on to Paris. One also sees the apartments 
 of Mme. de Maintenon, Marie Antoinette, Catherine 
 de Medici, Anne of Austria and Pope Pius VII, 
 occupied by him when he was a prisoner in France. 
 The revocation of the Edict of Nantes was signed 
 here, as was the decree of the Empress Josephine's 
 divorce. There are wonderful treasures in Gobelini 
 tapestry, Sevres porcelain, and other works of art. 
 There is a good golf links at Fontainebleau. 
 
 Chantilly, another charming little town and fa- 
 vorite resort of the Parisians, played a certain role 
 during the war. The Germans entered Chantilly on 
 September 3, 1914, and occupied it for several days. 
 The troops were garrisoned in the larger chateau and 
 the officers in the smaller, but they did no damage. 
 All the treasures had already been moved to a place 
 of safety. The mayor was arrested as a hostage, but 
 was unharmed. After the Battle of the Marne, Gen- 
 
 139 
 
PRESEXT DAY PAEIS 
 
 eral (now Marshal) Joffre, Generalissimo of the 
 Forces, made his headquarters at Chantilly. He 
 occupied a house on the Boulevard d'Aumale, while 
 the huge staff was quartered in the Hotel du Grand- 
 Conde. Chantilly remained the headquarters of the 
 Grand Staff until 1916, and reviews and military 
 parade took place on the race course. 
 
 Chantilly is twenty-five miles from Paris on the 
 ITorthem Railway (Gare du N^ord). It is an im- 
 portant racing center, and the best training quar- 
 ters in France, there being quite an English colony 
 engaged in training. The French "Oaks" and the 
 Prix du Jockey Club are run here. There is an 
 eighteen-hole golf course near the town. 
 
 Chantilly was famous in the seventeenth and 
 eighteenth centuries as the residence of the Conde 
 family. The monumental stables of the Condes, 
 close to the Chateau, had accommodation for two 
 hundred and sixty horses. 
 
 The Chateau was at the end of the eighteenth cen- 
 tury one of the most beautiful in Europe, but it was 
 destroyed during the Revolution. The present Cha- 
 teau was built by the Due d'Aumale, son of King 
 Louis Philippe (1876-1882), after his return from 
 exile ; upon his death he bequeathed it to the French 
 nation, it being placed in trust with the Institut de 
 France along with the magnificent artistic and his- 
 torical collections, which he had begim during his 
 exile in England from 1848 to 1871. This collec- 
 tion includes the exquisite "Orleans Virgin" of Ra- 
 
 i40 
 
PARIS BEYOND THE WALLS 
 
 phael and "The Three Graces," a panel of Raphael, 
 and forty priceless miniatures of the "Hours" hy 
 the great French master, Jehan Fouguet. The small 
 Pavilion d'Enghien was built by the Condes for their 
 guests, being named after the young Duke d'Enghien, 
 who was bom here (and was afterwards shot by Na- 
 poleon in 1804). The park was laid out by Lenotre 
 in the same style as the gardens of Versailles; the 
 forest covers over six thousand acres. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 The Frencli and Belgian battlefields of the Great 
 War are in most cases easily visited from Paris. A 
 good deal can be seen in one day, by leaving Paris 
 in the morning and returning in the evening. In 
 other cases, it is advisable, for various reasons, to 
 spend a night away and go to particular regions the 
 next day. These excursions can be made by motor- 
 car, or by train, but the train is still usually the 
 most convenient method, on account of the bad roads. 
 The hotel accommodation in the devastated regions 
 is still not very high-class, though excellent meals 
 on French lines can be had nearly everywhere. 
 
 The tourist agencies have mapped out the devas- 
 tated regions to correspond with the different battle- 
 fields and to enable tourists to see the utmost in the 
 minimum of time and with the least inconvenience. 
 Visitors cannot do better, in most cases, than follow 
 the plan of their tours. The ISTorthem and Eastern 
 of France Railways also run excursions to the prin- 
 cipal centers, enabling visitors to see the chief cities 
 which were in the "melee" and the battlefields 
 around them. 
 
 Chateau-Thieeby is on the East of France Rail- 
 142 
 
excursioj^s to the battlefields 
 
 way (Garo de I'Est), via Meaux, and the scenes of 
 the first Battle of the Marne. Chateau-Thierry and 
 Belleau Wood can easily be visited in one day and 
 a return to Paris be made by dinner-time. Lunch- 
 eon is taken at Chateau-Thierry, after which the 
 Wood is visited by motor-car or omnibus. 
 
 Chateau-Thierry is a little town on the Marne 
 (about eight thousand inhabitants in 1914), which 
 has always been a kind of citadel on the road to 
 Paris, protecting it. There is a ruined chateau, 
 which is supposed to have been originally built for 
 Charles Martel. The town is especially famous as 
 the birthplace of La Fontaine, the famous writer of 
 fables. His house, which still stands and was a li- 
 brary and museum, was used as a dugout by the Ger- 
 man officers. The chief square at Chateau-Thierry 
 is now known as the Place des Etats-Unis, in honor 
 of the great stand made by the Americans. 
 
 It was at the end of May and in the first days 
 of June, 1918, that the American machine-gunners 
 made their great stand in the streets of Chateau- 
 Thierry, which was the center of a great battle. The 
 German offensive had bejrun a few days before the 
 end of May, had easily smashed through the thinly 
 held line, and was pushing forward (for the second 
 time) for the Marne. Then the Americans made 
 their dramatic entry into the war, the Second and 
 Third Divisions being sent forward to help, ill- 
 trained and ill-equipped though they were. The two 
 bridges of Chateau-Thierry were for four days and 
 
 143 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 nights raked hj fire from seventeen machine guns 
 in the doors and windows of a row of houses on the 
 river bank. One of the bridges was completely de- 
 molished, being blown up as a party of Germans, 
 who had pushed forward, had reached the middle 
 of it. The American gunners made a methodical 
 retreat and installed themselves on the other side of 
 the Marne in positions which enabled them to sup- 
 port the French Colonial troops as they fell back. 
 West of Chateau-Thierry is a little village, Vaux, 
 about two miles o:ff, which, when the Germans were 
 in possession, was torn to pieces by American shells. 
 A short distance away is Belleau Woods, en route 
 to which is a Targe American cemetery, and the de- 
 stroyed villages of St. Martin and Vincelles. Bel- 
 leau Wood has been called the Wood of the American 
 Marine Brigade. All through June the marines 
 fought savagely for its possession. Belleau Wood is 
 blackened and broken, but there is less evidence of 
 the struggle here than there is in many other woods 
 on the front. 
 
 The Third American Division followed the enemy 
 as far as Cierges after he had been pushed back by 
 Foch's offensive. The Second Division fought for 
 over twenty-four hours in July between Soissons and 
 Chateau-Thierry. 
 
 Meaux, about eighty miles from Paris, and half- 
 way between the capital and Chateau-Thierry, is the 
 center of the famous Battle of the Marne. It was 
 occupied by invading armies in 1814 and again in 
 
 144 
 
EXCURSIONS TO TUE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 1870. In 1914 German patrols went through it, but 
 hud not much time to do great damage. The retreat- 
 ing British troops on September 2 and September 3 
 blew up the bridge ("Le Pout du Marche") and sank 
 the floating baths. The Battle of the Marne of Sep- 
 tember, 1914, has been celebrated every year since 
 by a sort of official pilgrimage to Meaux, the ceme- 
 tery of Chambry and the battlefield. 
 
 The Battle of the Marne began on September 5, 
 when General Joffre considered the moment had ar- 
 rived to carry out a maneuver he had been planning 
 since the first check to the French, to make a counter 
 offensive, and push the Germans back over a lino 
 stretching for one hundred and twenty-five miles, 
 from Clermont, northwest of Senlis, to Chalons, Ste. 
 Menehould and nearly to Verdun. Patrols of the 
 German army were in these days seen eight miles 
 from the gates of Paris. On September 3, the 
 German right wing began to move in a southeasterly 
 direction, and tlie army of Yon Kluck passed the 
 Marne between Chateau-Thierry and Meaux. The 
 left wing of the main French army, which had fallen 
 back on the east of Paris, was held by the British, 
 and between it and the falaise of Champagne was 
 the Fifth French army. 
 
 So on September 5, the Sixth French army of Gen- 
 eral !Maunoury, which had been protecting Paris, 
 began to cross the Ourcq behind Von Kluck's army, 
 on a front running north and south, instead of east 
 to west The right of this Sixth Army fell on the 
 
 145 
 
PKESENT DAY PAKIS 
 
 •enemy's Fourth Reserve Corps a little to the north of 
 Meux. The German general saw the danger, and 
 instead of continuing to the southeast, he turned the 
 greater portion of his forces around and recrossed 
 the Mame and the Ourcq^ so that the objectives 
 planned for the Sixth French army were not at- 
 tained. The left wing of this army was attacked hj 
 Von Kluck's troops, and it was to them that the re- 
 enforcements were rushed from Paris in motor-cabs. 
 The French and British (who were fighting in the 
 Wood of Meaux) suffered a great deal on September 
 € and 7 from the heavy German artillery, which 
 they had then nothing to match in power and range. 
 The French advance was resisted by big German re- 
 enforcements, although the next day a whole fresh 
 division was sent to their aid, part going again by 
 "taxi" and the rest by rail, the artillery going by 
 road. The British troops crossed the Mame on the 
 ninth, threatening the enemy forces opposed to the 
 Sixth French army on their flank. This was the 
 culminating point of the fight, and the Germans 
 ceased to fight and began to retire. On the tenth the 
 whole German army started a retreating movement 
 to the north, thus preventing the "enveloping" move- 
 ment that had been planned by Generals Joffre and 
 Gallieni. Still the Allies' splendid generalship and 
 the bravery of their troops had forced the Germans 
 to a hasty retreat. The famous Paris mobile army 
 had fulfilled its role by enabling the British army 
 to make an offensive, which brought about the 
 
 146 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 irreater result. From this date imtil the thirteenth 
 the Allies oontimied their pursuit of the enemy un- 
 til the latter were able to entrench themselves in 
 positions prepared in advance. 
 
 Senlis is a pretty little Cathedral to\vn, which 
 was used by the early Kings of France on account 
 of the hunting in the neighborhood. This small 
 town has had quite a stirring history. It was the 
 scene of fierce fighting and terrible brutality in the 
 struggles between Armagnacs and Burgundians early 
 in the fifteenth century (terminated by the Treaty 
 of Arras in 1435). It was taken by the English 
 and retaken from them by Joan of Arc in 1420. 
 Henri IV was the last King who lived at Senlis, his 
 successors abandoning it for more imposing palaces. 
 
 The handsome Gothic Cathedral was begun in 
 1153 on the site of a former building which had 
 existed since the third century. It was added to 
 and altered in later centuries, having suffered from 
 fire and other mishaps. The old Bishopric is built 
 on the old Gallo-Roman walls (a portion of them 
 being used in its construction) which in their prime 
 had twenty-eight towers — a sign of the importance 
 that Senlis possessed in those days. Senlis has, be- 
 sides, a number of very interesting old churches, 
 which are national monuments. 
 
 The Germans entered Senlis on September 2, 
 1914, after a preliminary bombardment, and im- 
 mediately took possession of the town, which was 
 greatly damaged, not only by the bombardment, but 
 
 147 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 bj intentional incendiarism. The excesses commit- 
 ted by tbe enemy at Senlis in these early days of 
 the war did a great deal to set neutrals against them. 
 Some twenty civilians were murdered in cold blood 
 and without any cause. As they attacked the hos- 
 pital, the Germans were met by a murderous fire 
 from some Erench troops in trenches near by. In 
 great fury they seized a number of civilians, made 
 them go ahead to receive the fire, and they (the 
 troops) followed, keeping close to the wall. Two 
 ladies were thus wounded, two men killed, and two 
 other men who were wounded were fired on by the 
 Germans to finish them. The French troops, discov- 
 ering what was happening, ceased firing, and the 
 rest of the "hostages" fled to the French lines, fired 
 on by the enemy. 
 
 Another terrible tragedy in Senlis was the murder 
 of the Mayor, M. Odent. He was arrested on some 
 futile charge, and while he was being conveyed to 
 the Hotel du Grand Cerf, where the invaders had 
 their headquarters, firing broke out in the lower part 
 of the town. M. Odent, accused of being privy to 
 this act, was, after a mockery of a trial, shot in a 
 field at the neighboring commune of Chamant. Six 
 other hostages had previously been shot and buried 
 in the same field. 
 
 (An interesting excursion for motorists is the fol- 
 lowing: To Chantilly, leaving Paris by the Porte de 
 Clichy, via Asnieres, Gennevilliers, Epinay, Saint- 
 Gratien, Soisy, Eaubonne, Montlignon, Moisselles, 
 
 148 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 Viarmes, Royaumont, Le Lys, Gouvieux (twenty- 
 eight miles). After visiting Chantilly, proceed to 
 Scnlis, five and one-half miles; return to Paris via 
 Pontarme, Louvre and Le Bourget, which was an 
 important center of military transport communica- 
 tions and an aeroplane center.) 
 
 IxiiKiMs, with its wonderful Cathedral, which suf- 
 fered so much, as every one knows, from the bom- 
 bardments of the Germans, and the Champagne bat- 
 tlefields, are most interesting excursions from Paris. 
 'A visit to the neighboring battlefield of Champagne 
 is easily made on the same day, enabling the tour- 
 ist to return to Paris the same evening. (Leaving the 
 Gare de I'Est, Eastern Railway, at seven fifty-five, 
 Rheims is reached just before noon. After lunch, 
 there is plenty of time for visiting the Cathedral 
 and the city, besides a trip by motor-car to one of 
 the battlefields. For those who can do it more 
 leisurely, an interesting afternoon may be passed in 
 Rheims itself, and the battlefields seen next day. 
 There are several good hotels at Rheims.) 
 
 Rheims Cathedral was the scene of the Corona- 
 tion of a long line of French kings, from Clovis to 
 Charles X, the most famous of all being that of 
 Charles VII in 1429, when Joan of Arc stood be- 
 side him holding her white banner. Mary Stuart 
 spent a portion of her childhood at Rheims, her 
 uncle, Cardinal Charles of Lorraine, being Arch- 
 bishop of the city. One of the most important and 
 thriving cities in this part of the country in the 
 
 149 
 
PRESEI^T DAY PARIS 
 
 middle ages, Rheims had not sunk into being merely 
 a shell of its former self. It remained and still 
 remains an important center owing to its various 
 manufactures, but chiefly to the wine industry, as it 
 is the center of the foaming wine of Champagne. 
 Just before the war a census showed a population 
 of 175,000. Medieval remains in Rheims were 
 particularly numerous and interesting, Nearly all 
 these have been destroyed by the German fire. 
 
 Of the various churches erected on the site now 
 occupied by Rheims Cathedral between the fifth and 
 ninth centuries, no vestige remains. The one de- 
 stroyed by fire in 1210 was, according to the testi- 
 mony of contemporary historians, the finest in 
 France. It was replaced in the course of thirty 
 years by an immense and superb Cathedral erected 
 according to the designs of Robert de Coucy. Grow- 
 ing side by side with the growth of the kingdom, 
 it was one of the finest in Europe for its unity and 
 the harmony of its proportions. The lightness 
 added to grandeur of the Cathedral struck all be- 
 holders, while the wonderful Gothic carvings, the 
 richly decorated West front, and the sculptured 
 angels in great numbers all around the building 
 have led to its being called the "Cathedral of An- 
 gels." M. Paul Adam beautifully remarked in his 
 work on Rheims that they look as if they were about 
 to fly off with the Cathedral and its congregation to 
 heaven. The interior of the edifice is simple, and 
 some connoisseurs preferred the Church of St. Remi 
 
 150 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 for the beauty and harmony of its interior. It was 
 at this church, the origin of which was coeval with 
 the birth of Christianity, that the remains of St. 
 Eemi are supposed to have been buried in 350 A. D. 
 The Germans were in Rheims only from Septem- 
 ber 3 to September 12, when they retired on ac- 
 count of the Mome victory. But the trials of 
 Rheims were only beginning when the enemy de- 
 parted. On the day of their departure a hurricane 
 of fire and steel began falling on the city. The 
 bombardment of the Cathedral began on September 
 19 from the German positions to the north of the 
 city, and it was speedily set on fire. The deed 
 aroused a cry of rage and indignation throughout 
 the civilized world. Besieged for 1,479 days, 
 Rheims was bombarded for 1,051. The worst pe- 
 riods were between the middle of March and the 
 middle of April, 1917, when over 100,000 shells 
 fell, and the summer of 1918 when the city suffered 
 worst of all, though by then, the remaining ciTil popu- 
 lation had gone and Rheims was left to the military. 
 Great portions of Rheims will have to be entirely re- 
 built, like many other cities that suffered so much on 
 the front. 
 
 Berry-au-Bac, which was the scene of so many 
 frightful struggles, and where the twisted iron of the 
 famous sugar works still stands to attest to the fury 
 of the fire, is some miles out of Rheims on the road 
 to the north. To the loft stretches the ridge known 
 
 151 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 as tHe Chemin des Dames; on the right are Kogent 
 I'Abesse and Moronvilliers, whence the German guns 
 bombarded the city. Between here and Soissons and 
 the quarries around it there was great fighting be- 
 tween September 12 and October 8, 1914. For long 
 the Germans held almost impregnable positions, and 
 the Allies had to dig in and chase the enemy from 
 trench to trench. In the French victory on the Aisne 
 (April-May, 1917) thousands of Germans were cap- 
 tured and hundreds of guns and important positions 
 taken. In October, 1918, the Germans were forced to 
 evacuate their positions in this region. The hill be- 
 yond Berry-au-Bac to the right is Hill 108, which 
 was tunneled and mined over and over again, some 
 of the biggest mine craters on the battle front being 
 here, and the slaughter at times was terrible. 
 
 About five and three-quarter miles to the southeast 
 of Rheims, by the Chalons Road, is the Fort de la 
 Pompelle, which was the chief defense of Rheims. 
 The torn and shell-shattered condition of the road 
 testifies what struggles took place there too, for all 
 this territory was under the guns at Berru, Nogent 
 TAbesse, Cornillet and other heights which we see in 
 the distance. It is difficult to realize that this mass 
 of chumed-up, chalky soil is a fortress, and indeed 
 there is very little left to-day of the fortress, which 
 was taken and retaken several times, though it was 
 never in German hands for more than a few hours. 
 
 It is of this region — the Fort de la Pompelle and 
 152 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 Ecrmo d' Alger, on tlio other side of the road — that 
 the famous American poet Ahm Seeger writes in some 
 stirring lines in one of his poems and (more guard- 
 edly) in some letters to his mother which have been 
 published : 
 
 I'^ndor the little crosses where they rise 
 
 The soldier rests . . . 
 
 There the grape-pickers at their harvesticg: 
 
 Shall lightly tread and load their wicker trays, 
 
 Blessing his memory as they toil and sing 
 
 In the slant sunshine of October days. 
 
 Aebas, Vimt, Lens, forming the center of most 
 interesting battle areas, can all be visited in one day 
 from Paris, leaving the city in the early morning by 
 train (from the Northern Station) for Arras, and 
 motoring thence to Lens through Vimy and over tlie 
 renowned ridge and back to Arras. (Both luncheon 
 and dinner can be taken on the train, which saves 
 time.) To go by automobile all the way from Paris 
 and back takes longer, though the trip will be found 
 to be well worth while. The railway line passes 
 through St. Denis, Chantilly, and Longueau, which 
 with Amiens was the crucial point of the railway 
 traffic during the war, attacks on this spot becoming 
 very intense about the time of the Somme offensive 
 in 1916. From Corbie the devastated region begins 
 (this is the Valley of the Ancre), and the line from 
 here to Albert was occupied by the Germans after 
 their offensive of March, 1918. Albert is passed — a 
 battered and pathetic ruin. 
 
 153 
 
PEESENT D2\Y PARIS 
 
 Abkas, tlie one-time capital of the Artois, was an 
 important place in Roman times, and as early as the 
 fourth century was known for its manufacture of 
 woolen goods, the luxury of which is said to have 
 shocked St. Jerome, and its tapestries. St. Vaast 
 established the Christian religion here, and the 
 Counts of Flanders took up their residence in the 
 city. It belonged successively to the Kings of France, 
 the Counts of Flanders, the Counts of Artois (under 
 whom, 1180-1384, it had its greatest splendor), the 
 Dukes of Burgundy, the Kings of Spain, and again 
 the Kings of France. It was the scene of tourna- 
 ments, jousts and other medieval festivals, and the 
 burghers of the time became so wealthy that they 
 lent money to the Kings and to other cities. Also 
 in the age of St. Louis Arras was the literary capital 
 of Latin civilization, as Rheims was the religious cen- 
 ter. In later years it was the birthplace of the two 
 Revolutionary leaders, Robespierre and Lazare 
 Carnot. 
 
 Architecturally, Arras was chiefly celebrated for 
 the two magnificent squares, the Petite Place and the 
 Grande Place, which were surrounded by houses uni- 
 form in style, with gables from the time of the Span- 
 ish domination (sixteenth and seventeenth centuries). 
 On the ground they were surrounded by an arcaded 
 gallery with monolith sandstone columns. There were 
 seventy-five houses with one hundred and eighty-two 
 columns in the Grande Place; fifty-two houses and 
 one hundred and nine columns in the Petite Place, 
 
 154 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 and in the Rue do la Taillcrie, which joins the two 
 and is in the same style, twenty-three houses and 
 fifty-four columns. These places were the center and 
 soul of tho town, where jousts and popular rejoicings 
 took place and sometimes meetings of discontent, 
 when trouhle was brewing. The Hotel do Ville, on 
 the Petite Place, was one of the finest in JSTorthern 
 Franco. Tho Belfry, which was the great pride of 
 Arras, was begun in 1463, because the echevins had 
 no belfry for municipal needs. On the top of it 
 stood the bronze Lion of Arras, otherwise called the 
 "Lion of Flanders," which leaned against a lance 
 carrying a sun with the coat-of-arms of the city 
 and serving as a weather gauge. 
 
 The battle raged furiously round Arras from Sep- 
 tember 2, 1914, Tintil 1916, and all that time the city 
 was under fire, the Germans bombarding it from fif- 
 teen miles away, though at one time they were as 
 near as three hundred yards. On October 7, 1914, 
 tlie Hotel de Ville caught fire. On the 21st a hail of 
 heavy shells fell on the Belfry, and the eighty-ninth 
 caused it to fall, with its Lion. Early in October, 
 too, thousands of shells began falling on the Grande 
 Place, and in one fire one hundred and twenty houses 
 were destroyed. The destruction was continued and 
 nearly completed in February, 1916. The Cathedral 
 is now also a vast and imposing ruin. 
 
 Of the two Battles of Arras, the first raged round 
 the city from April 8, to June 6, 1917, and resulted 
 in a victory for the British troops, the important 
 
 155 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 position of Vimy Ridge being taken, with about 
 20,000 German prisoners. The second Battle of 
 Arras was fought from August 26, to September 3, 
 1918, following the victory at Amiens, when the 
 Germans fell back on the further defenses of the 
 Hindenburg line. 
 
 About half-way between Arras and Lens, the great 
 coal-mining center of France, is Yimy Ridge, which 
 was the scene of prolonged struggles and was taken 
 and retaken several times, being finally captured by 
 the Canadians, who had fought for nearly two years 
 in the locality, on April 9, 1917. The deed is com- 
 memorated by a simple but massive masonry monu- 
 ment, and the ridge has been presented by the Com- 
 mune to the Canadian Government, which will prob- 
 ably erect another memorial. 
 
 The strategical importance of a place like Vimy is 
 apparent, as it is an unsurpassed observation post 
 over the country for fifteen miles round, while in the 
 sunken road between the two sides of the Ridge batta- 
 lions of men could be massed almost unperceived. 
 
 Lens was before the war a prosperous town of 
 35,000 inhabitants, and the center of a population of 
 100,000 all engaged in coal mining, for this is the 
 French "Black Country." There is no scene of ruin 
 and desolation on the whole battle front to be com- 
 pared with this big town, in which one passes through 
 street after street where scarcely a brick is left on 
 another, all being ground to dust and white powder. 
 Lens is the center of some twenty coal pits, and was 
 
 156 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 the most important mining district in the Pas-de- 
 Calais, more than 4,000,000 tons having been brought 
 to the surface in 1913 (one tenth of the total French 
 production). Some 16,000 workmen were employed. 
 All the pits were flooded and destroyed in the war, 
 and machinery, workshops, means of communication 
 and transport, buildings all wrecked to such an extent 
 that years will still be required to get them in work- 
 ing order again. 
 
 Amiens (on the Northern of France Railway and 
 on one of the direct routes between London and 
 Paris) is one of France's famous cities, and has 
 played an interesting role in its history. Its Cathe^ 
 dral 13 the most perfect example of Gothic art and 
 one of the finest churches in Europe, besides being 
 the largest in France. Built from 1220 to 1288, 
 its sculptures are amongst the finest remaining from 
 the middle ages and a highly remarkable summary 
 of the religious art and thought of former times. 
 
 Owing to its strategical position, Amiens was 
 frequently the objective of the German armies, and 
 was in especial danger after the Battle of Charleroi, 
 owing to von Kluck's efforts to turn the retreating 
 Allied armies' left wing. Entering on the last day 
 of August, 1914, they requisitioned goods and money 
 and took hostages from among the leading citizens, 
 but after the Battle of the Marne they were forced 
 to leave the city on September 11. From this date 
 until March, 1918, Amiens was saved from the at- 
 tentions of the enemy — a fact of very great impor- 
 
 157 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 tance for the Allies' military traffic. But even then 
 the nearest approach of the enemy was some ten miles 
 avvay. From this time until well on in June Amiens 
 was subjected to heavy bombardments from aerial 
 torpedoes and other missiles, besides a long range 280 
 gun, which the Australians captured near Villers- 
 Bretonneux. 
 
 Luckily the Cathedral, although hit several times, 
 was very little damaged, thanks to the great care 
 that had been taken in protecting it. 
 
 Veedun is reached from Paris by the Eastern of 
 France Railway (Gare de I'Est), passing through 
 Meaux, Epernay, Chalons-sur-Marne and Ste. Mene- 
 houlde. More than one day should be given to this 
 trip. Another favorite way is to go on to Verdun 
 via Ste. Menehoulde by automobile from Rheims, by 
 which the tourist can view the whole extent of the 
 Champagne battle front in its various phases, the 
 Forest of the Argonne, etc. 
 
 Verdun is a very old fortified town on the Roman 
 road from Rheims to !Metz, and was one of the three 
 Bishoprics (with lletz and Toul), dating from the 
 fourth century, which played a great part in the hisr 
 tory of France, being handed over with Alsace to 
 this country by the Treaty of Westphalia in 1648. 
 Verdun was bombarded by the Prussians in 1792, 
 while in 1870, after a stubborn resistance, it capit- 
 ulated to the Prussians with all the honors of war 
 and was occupied by them until the war indemnity 
 was paid off in 1873. 
 
 158 
 
, EXCUESIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 The interest of Verdun lies rather in its position 
 as one of the foremost frontier fortresses than in 
 anything it contains in the way of buildings, for its 
 Cathedral is not particularly interesting. 
 
 But its name is associated with the most heroic 
 struggles of the war. The first great effort after the 
 Marne of the Germans to break through the front 
 was at Verdun in 1916. The condition of the streets 
 to-day shows how severely and persistently the town 
 was bombarded. Xearly all the interesting old houses 
 have disappeared, and none of the public buildings 
 were spared. As at Bheims the shelling (chiefly in 
 the early part of 1916) was directed principally at 
 the religious buildings and hospitals. 
 
 Verdun was made the target of the enemy's fero- 
 cious attacks, because the town and the fortresses 
 surrounding it constituted a standing menace to the 
 communications of the German army and were a 
 danger to the fortress of IMetz, while Verdun was 
 also the base of the offensive movement which the 
 French were preparing in Lorraine. Had Verdun 
 fallen at the time of the repeated attacks of the 
 Crown Prince's legions, the French positions of the 
 Argonne would have been laid bare and the French 
 would have been compelled to "rectify" their entire 
 front and abandon some six hundred square miles 
 of territory to the enemy. There were other and 
 political reasons dictating these attacks, and as the 
 pick of the German troops were on this front, a 
 striking success was felt to be necessary. Besides 
 
 159 
 
PEESENT DAY PAKIS 
 
 all these reasons there was the pressing need on 
 the part of the Germans to possess the Briey coal 
 basin, which can almost be seen from the Fort of 
 Vaux and the military key to which Verdun is. 
 
 But the defenses of Verdun were the acme and 
 combination of all the devices of the art of fortifica- 
 tion as it has been studied from the middle ages 
 until the most recent times. 
 
 Erom Verdun it is only a short motorcar ride to 
 the two famous Forts, Vaux and Douaumont, whose 
 names will be remembered for ages to come as sym-' 
 bolical of French heroism. "No words can give an] 
 adequate description of this land between Verdun' 
 and the forts where the fearsome struggle began in' 
 February, 1916. A few shriveled tree trunks mark 
 the site of what once were woods. Villages that! 
 were as stubbornly fought for as if they were stores 
 of gold are mere heaps of dust. From the top of the 
 fort of Vaux one sees the plain across which the 
 enemy hurled their serried masses again and again 
 under the guns of the fortress. 
 
 It was on June 7, that small heroic garrison under 
 Commandant Raynal had to capitulate, as they were 
 unable to obtain further food or reenforcements, since 
 the enemy had already taken possession of the top 
 of the fort. 
 
 Furious fighting took place all through the sum- 
 mer, and regiment after regiment was sacrificed bj 
 the Germans, but Vaux was retaken by the French 
 on November 3, 1916. 
 
 160 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 The attack on Douaumont was the most ferocious 
 that had up till then taken place. One hundred 
 thousand of the most terrible German shells fell on 
 it, and by the evening of February 25, the fort was 
 "but a ruin. It was on this dat« that the Germans 
 began a series of mass attacks in serried ranks five 
 or six deep which were met by a French division 
 charged to oppose their passage at all costs. They 
 wavered, grew confused, and fell back in disorder, 
 leaving the ground covered with their dead. The 
 massed attacks during the succeeding days to take 
 the plateau of Douaumont were as bloody as anything 
 during the war. The snow that had fallen was red 
 with blood, but still the Germans came on singing 
 songs of victory and trying to shelter behind the 
 bodies of their dead. Finally the main body of the 
 French had to retire, leaving a rear-guard, who con- 
 tested the ground foot by foot. The subsequent coun- 
 ter-attack led by General Petain was so impetuous 
 that the Germans, taken by surprise, in spite of the 
 slaughter that had been made in their ranks by the 
 artillery preparation, were thrown back to beyond 
 the ruins of the fort. The German effort was defin- 
 itely broken. On October 24, the French attack on 
 Douaumont was begun, led by General Mangin, and 
 the fort was taken the same day. The whole of 
 this front was retaken in 1918 by the Allied troops, 
 valiantly aided by the Americans, the way thus being 
 prepared for the final victory. 
 
 The French artillery fire was more intense and 
 161 
 
PKESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 destructive during the engagements round Verdun, 
 than at any time during the war. At times five hun- 
 dred batteries would be booming simultaneously. 
 Rivers disappeared under the hurricane of fire, and 
 hills were turned almost inside out. The death roll 
 on both sides was terrible, but especially so on the 
 German side. 
 
 It was on September 26, 1918, while the Fourth 
 French army was attacking between the Moronvilliers 
 heights and the Argonne that the American army, led 
 by General Pershing, took up the offensive between 
 the Argonne and the Meuse and made a determined 
 attack on the left bank of the Meuse. Malancourt, 
 Bethincourt, Forges, and other villages soon fell to 
 them, and their artillery crossed the Forges brook. 
 They cleared the woods of the enemy as they ad- 
 vanced, and later in the day a battle was taking 
 place for the German stronghold of Montfaucon, a 
 prominent observation post. By the evening it was 
 surrounded, and two days later this place and others 
 were in the hands of the Americans. On the right 
 bank of the Meuse, the Americans, also under Persh- 
 ing, working with a French araiy corps, took Bra- 
 bant, Haumont, the Wood des Caures, and over- 
 passed the line whence in February, 1916, the Crown 
 Prince had thrown his "storm troops" on to Verdun. 
 By the end of October, both banks of the Meuse 
 were freed from the enemy, who in the month lost 
 over 20,000 prisoners and large numbers of guns of 
 all calibers. 
 
 162 
 
EXCUKSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 A few miles north of Verdun is the American 
 sbrino of Rommjne, where in the cemetery 22,000 
 American youth are buried. 
 
 Saint-Mijiiel is best visited from Verdun. En 
 route, Vigneulles was an objective of the Allies since 
 it was a German concentration point. Saint-Mihiel 
 has been called the "twenty-seven hour, clean-cut 
 American victory." Here the menace of the German 
 grip of the Erench lines, harassing railway conmiu- 
 nications, was destroyed by American troops, who in 
 three days captured the entire salient and 15,000 
 prisoners. The forts of Gerincourt and Haudainville 
 are crumbled heaps, the result of the battering of 
 long-distance guns. 
 
 Ypres and the battlefields of which it is the center 
 can be reached from London via Calais or Boulogne 
 and St. Omer, which was a British base, where Lord 
 Roberts died while visiting the army. From Paris it 
 is best to go via Lille, spend the night there (excel- 
 lent and comfortable hotels) and visit Ypres and the 
 battlefield the next day by automobile. 
 
 Lille, a large and thriving manufacturing tovm, 
 which in the middle ages rivaled Antwerp and Am- 
 sterdam and is to-day the fourth town in France, 
 was in possession of the Germans nearly all through 
 the war. The town was comparatively little dam' 
 aged, though there are whole streets and numerous 
 public buildings that have greatly suffered. But the 
 invaders treated the inhabitants with great severity 
 and cruelty, numbers were arrested for treason or 
 
 103 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 on otlier charges, and a number were shot. The occu- 
 pation of Lille and its suburbs was rendered particu- 
 larly notorious, however, by the deportations of young 
 girls and youths to perform field work and — accord- 
 ing to the testimony of some — for even worse pur- 
 poses. Some 25,000 persons (mostly women and 
 children) were thus taken into slavery. 
 
 Ypkes is reached from Lille via Roubaix, Tour- 
 coing and the famous Menin Road, the Belgian fron- 
 tier being crossed. Here the fighting took place in 
 "Flanders mud." The visitor can see the so-called 
 "tank cemetery" and view the sites of woods, cha- 
 teaux, villages and even a cemetery of which no 
 vestiges exist, all blown away by shell fire ! 
 
 Ypres was one of the most famous of the cities of 
 the Low Countries. Its history has been tragic and 
 romantic, for it was the scene of fratricidal struggles 
 all through the ages. The Cloth Hall (Halle des Dra- 
 peries) was built by the Guild of the cloth merchants 
 in the thirteenth century as an exchange and ware- 
 house. This wonderful building — the finest example 
 of early ogival architecture existing — astonishing by 
 the ponderous mass of its rectilinear architecture. 
 The town hall, or IN'ieuwerke, adjoining the larger 
 hall, was a graceful structure in Renaissance style, 
 added in the seventeenth century. As all the world 
 knows to-day, neither of these superb buildings, nor 
 the Church of St. Martin nor any of the many inter- 
 esting medieval buildings of Ypres has survived the 
 volley of shells that were fired on them by the infu- 
 
 164 
 
EXCURSIONS TO THE BATTLEFIELDS 
 
 riated enemy, and Ypros is nothing but a sacred ruin. 
 The Gorman attacks began at the end of October, 
 1914, and though frequently repeated, they were 
 never able to take the town. They started firing in- 
 cendiary bombs in November, and towards the end 
 of that month the Hallo was entirely in flames, while 
 the Nieuwerke, being lighter in structure, was en- 
 tirely demolished in a week or two. It was in the 
 battles round Ypres that the enemy first made use of 
 poison gases, and later of liquid flames. 
 
 The return journey to Lille is usually made via 
 Armentieres and Bailleul, passing Mont Kemmel, 
 while it is not much further to push on to other "hot" 
 places of the war — Messines, Bethune, La Bassee, all 
 of which are full of interest for the visitor. 
 
 To visit the battlefield of the Somme tourists are 
 advised to go from Paris (Gare du Nord) to either 
 Longueau or Albert, and thence make the tour by 
 car. At Albert will be seen the wreckage of the fam- 
 ous modern Cathedral of Notre Dame, which gave 
 rise to one of the curious prophecies of the war. 
 On the top of the tower stood a statue of the Virgin 
 in copper, holding the infant Jesus in her arms, and 
 when the bombardment began, in November, 1914, 
 the statue, struck by a shell on the pedestal, leaned 
 right over the church (a thousand pictures have im- 
 mortalized it). Both the British troops and the peas- 
 ants had a saying, which originated one does not know 
 how, that when the statue fell the war would end, 
 and that it would terminate in the defeat of that 
 
 1G5 
 
PRESENT DAY PARIS 
 
 side whicli at the time was in possession of Albert. 
 The statue fell shortly before the end of the war 
 while the Germans were in Albert. 
 
 The valley of the Somme is entered at Villers- 
 Bretonneux, where the gallant Australians have made 
 an imperishable name. Peronne, an interesting old 
 town and the seat of a famous, ancient Irish monas- 
 tery, resisted the attacks of 1914, but fell to the 
 enemy in 1916, and became a German stronghold. 
 Bapaume is another tragic ruin, most of its buildings 
 and monuments having been mined before the Ger- 
 mans evacuated it in 1917. Retaken by the Germans, 
 it was finally recaptured in August 1918 by the I^ew 
 Zealanders. Le Sars, Courcelette, La Boisselle, and 
 other notable places are seen — or the sites of them. 
 
 Cambeai and St. Quentin are best visited separ- 
 ately from Amiens. Cambrai is famous in the arts 
 of peace for its manufacture of fine cambric. The 
 British attack on this town in ISTovember, 1917, was 
 one of the most dramatic episodes in the whole war. 
 St. Quentin is one of the most interesting of the old 
 Erench towns and takes its name from a famous 
 martyr who was done to death after torture by a 
 Prefect of the Gauls for insulting the majesty of the 
 Roman Emperor. 
 

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