,&*' V'^^^V <.''»..«\o* v^5w?:'V* * %^^ li « :3 O LiJ to ui UQ t>0 IZ Q V~lJ z liJ {Ni fO vS The above cut would pass, of course, but it would not be arranged to best advantage. Therefore it should be arranged as follows, and then both sides of the cloth would show up like Cut Number 8 : Start with 8 14 blue End with 8 / 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 4 black 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 38 Now by referring back to our pattern on page 20, you will find we only lack the last 6 ends of the pattern of (23) having enough to complete the last pattern (or, in other words, the 37th pattern), as we had 36 complete patterns and 32 ends over. But, in order to arrange this pattern to best advantage, we will take 8 of the 32 ends we pro- pose to use for selvage, and use these 8 ends towards completing our last or 37th pattern. By referring again to the pattern on page 20 you will note below the point indicated, that we requira 4 ends of white and 2 ends of red to complete the 37th pattern. So here, we use 6 of the 8 ends we have taken off of the selvage, and we have 2 ends left over, which we will use on the blue, and our pattern will be as follows : 14 blue 2 white 2 red 2 white 37 complete patterns 2 red in the width of the 2 white cloth and the 2 ends 4 black of blue over as 2 white shown at bottom. 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 blue ove r Now you must understand that the 14 ends of blue at the top of pattern would come first, and would be next to sel- vage on one side of the cloth, with the 2 ends of blue at the bottom of pattern coming last, when laying in the warp, and would be next to selvage on the other side. So we would have 14 of blue on one side of the cloth and 2 on the other. By adding the 14 ends and 2 ends together we have 16 ends, so we will use only 8 ends of blue in the first pattern, and we will have the other 8 to go on the other side, making the cloth look alike on both sides, as shown in Cut Number 8, and our pattern should be as follows : (24) start with 8 14 blue Total Ends End with 8 „/ 2 white 2 red 520 blue 468 white, selvage ii 2 white 296 red 2 red 148 black - 2 white 4 blue 1432 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 38 37 complete patterns. 12 ends selvage on both sides. ^ iii ■J CUT N9 (5 Take the pattern we have just worked out, and work it out for a warp of 1600 ends instead of 1400 besides the selvage, and you will find we get about the same results, but arrive at it in a little different manner: (25) 14 blue 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 4 blue 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 38 Now in using a warp of 1600 ends, we of course divide the 1600 by 38 to find out how many complete patterns we have: 38)1600(42 complete patterns 152 80 76 4 ends over Now the fellow who does not know exactly how these 4 extra ends should be worked in on a pattern, would say in this case — well, just add that on to the selvage — and of course would make no mark on his pattern indicating how it should commence or end up when laying in the warp ; consequently the cloth would show up on both sides just about like Cut Number 7, except it would have 2 ends more of white and 2 more of red coming next to sel- vage on one side, and the last 2 of white would also be thrown into the selvage, and he would have 16 of white for selvage on one side and 22 on the other, which would not show up well in the finished piece of goods. The right way to handle this pattern, however, would be as follows : Add the U ends over onto the blue, and as you understand, these 4 ends of blue would come on the side of the warp you finish up on when laying it in. So you would have the first 14 ends of blue as called for in the pattern on the side you commence on and the 4 ends (26) over on the other side. Now we will just say we will take 4 ends out of the first pattern where we commence and place them over on the other side with the other ^ ends and make our cloth show up with 10 of blue in first pattern next to selvage instead of 14, and 8 ends on the other side coming next to the selvage, and the pattern should be written as follows : Start with 10 14 blue End with 8/2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 4 black 2 white 2 red 2 white 2 red 2 white 38 42 complete patterns. 16 ends selvage on both sides. Now we will work out the total ends as before, as follows : 42 14 blue ends to pattern 168 42 588 Here we have 588 ends of blue in the 42 patterns, and as we are to add the 4 ends we have over on the blue our total ends will be as follows: (27) Selvage 536 42 12 white 84 42 504 32 ends 42 8 red 42 4 black 336 168 Total Ends 592 blue 536 white, 336 red 168 black selvage included 1632 With this pattern arranged, as shown on page 27, the cloth would show up the same as in Cut Number 8, except there would be 10 ends of blue on first side instead of 8. (28) CHAPTER SIX In this chapter we will take up a pattern having some corded work, which you will note brings about a slight change in the way we find the number of patterns con- tained in the warp. We will take the following pattern : 16 blue 4 white 16 blue 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) .2 black 2 white 4 red 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white 64 4 less extra ends used to each pattern 60 Now it must be understood that all the patterns we have been working out, up to this one, have been in the plain construction of 2 ends to each dent in the reed, and in working out any pattern that is irregular in the reed, such as cords, or extra doublings, it must be figured on the same basis as though there were 2 ends to each dent, in order to keep the same width of warp in the reed; therefore, in this case, as the 2 cords in each pattern use 4 ends to the dent, we have 4 extra ends to the pattern (2 extra ends at each cord) , so we subtract the 4 extra ends from the total ends :n the pattern, which leaves 60 (as above) ; and this is the figure we must use to divide the total number of ends in the warp by to find out the required number of patterns. Counting 1400 ends to the warp, we have the following : (29) 60)1400(23 complete patterns 120 200 180 20 ends over Now the way this pattern comes out leaves our selvage ir rather bad shape. So we will have to do some changing around to get both sides to look alike. You will under- stand, of course, that the 20 ends over are that many ends on towards the 24th pattern; that being the case, of course, we will start back at the top of the pattern to add on and we find our pattern first calls for 16 of blue, and next 4 of white, so we would add 16 ends on to the blue and 4 on to the white, which takes up the 20 ends we have over the 23 patterns. Now if we should add these ends on this pattern, as. just suggested, our pattern should be written as follows, and the selvage would show up like Cut Number 9, page 32: 16 blue End 4 white 16 blue 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white 4 red 2 white 2 black cord 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white . 64 23 complete patterns Total Ends 752 blue 280 white 184 black 92 red 184 white for cord 1492 32 white for selvage. 1524 16 ends selvage on first side 20 ends selvage on other side Note — The last four ends of white where the pattern ends come next to selvage on last side, making 20 ends of white for selvage on that side. (30) We will first get out our memorandum of colors for each pattern, as follows : 32 ends of blue 12 ends of white 8 ends of black 4 ends of red 8 ends of white for cord 64 Referring back to page 30, we find we have 23 com- plete patterns, so we find the number of ends required of each color as follows : 32 blue 12 white 8 black 4 red 8 white for cord 23 23 23 23 23 96 36 184 92 184 64 24 736 276 Total Ends 736 blue 276 white 184 black 92 red 184 white for cord 20 ends over to add (See Page 30) 1492 Here we find we have 1492 ends, when we are supposed to have only 1400 ; but you will note that we have 4 extra •ends to the pattern in this warp (see page 29) on account of the corded work, and as we have 23 complete patterns we will multiply the 23 by 4 and we find we have 92 extra ends in the warp on account of the cords. Now, if we deduct the 92 ends from the 1492, it leaves 1400, and as 1400 ends is the number of ends our pattern is based on, it proves that our example is correct. On page 30 we show that there are 16 ends of the 20 to be added onto the 736 of blue and 4 onto the 276 of white besides the 32 ends for selvage, which makes our total number of ends as shown on page 30. (31) 1^1 'r^-« i„jms, 1^1^ Sv-i"" v?.i [1:5 f C-ji 1:^ \l OHZ. COMPLETE PATTERN THIS .space: RLPR.ESENT5 THE 23 COMPLETE PATTERNS CUT N°3 h / ui UJ V \-> O < ^ -^ Q i-j /. UI lU o Q INl Z LOJ LiJ 3: 1- ^ ||j^*^»"--5j V ■4 ? ill^ ^fe ^^S.t^ll'^^ J^li CUT N? lO V. O .J' < > J _i _1 UJ CU in Q L. hi u cQ - (32) This pattern as arranged on page 30, which would show up on the selvages as in Cut Number 9, is not cor- rect, but should be arranged as follows and would then show up as -in Cut Number 10, which is correct : Start with 8 End with 8 / cord 16 blue 4 white 16 blue 2 white 2 black 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white 4 red 2 white 2 black 4 white one eye (one dent) 2 black 2 white cord 64 Now you will notice that in having the pattern arranged as above we lay only 8 ends of blue for the first stripe instead of 16, as called for on page 30, and the 8 ends we have left out here to start with we carry on over to the other side, and when we finish up we find we have 8 ends of blue towards the second 16 of blue called for, which makes our pattern end up as marked above, and the cloth would show up as in Cut Number 10, which, I am sure, you will agree is an improvement over the selvages in Cut Number 9. In this case, however, the number of ends of each color would be the same as shown on page 30. (33) CHAPTER SEVEN In this chapter we will have still another example in corded work, which, together with the one we have just explained, should enable anyone to handle anything along this line, as the general principles in working out all such patterns are included in these two. As you will understand, the number of heddles required to weave a piece of goods has nothing to do with the number of ends required in the warp. The number of heddles required for producing a piece of goods depends entirely on the kind of weave called for, etc. This part of the work, however, would of course come under the head of design- ing, while the object of this book is to teach you how to figure out the patterns whether you understand anything about designing or not. 12 black X— 4 red one end each eye X— 4 red one end each eye 12 black 2 white 4 blue X— 2 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X— 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X— 4 white one eye End with 3 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X— 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X— 2 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 98 8 extra ends in each pattern 90 Note — All places marked "x" mean, reeded in one dent. (34) In working out this pattern, as shown on page 34, we will suppose our warp is to have 1600 ends in addition to the 32 ends for selvage. We find the total number of ends in this pattern is 98. We also find that we have 8 extra ends used in the pattern on account of doublings in the reed, and as we are to work out the pattern on a basis of only 2 ends to each dent in the reed, in order to maintain a given width in the reed, regardless of the doublings in the reed, we simply subtract the 8 extra ends from the 98 in the pat- tern and use the 90 to work out our pattern by, as fol- lows : 90)1600(17 complete patterns in the warp 90 700 630 70 ends over Here we find we have 17 complete patterns and 70 ends on towards the 18th pattern, so we begin at the top of our pattern now and count the ends on down until we count 70, and we will find where the 18th pattern would end. Well, now we find it ends with 3 ends of blue at the point indicated (page 34) . Now if we should let this pattern go at that, the selvages of the cloth when woven would show up like Cut Number 11. (35) ONE COMPLLTE PATTERN | THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THE I 7 COMPLETE.! PATTE RnS-qi CUT N2|| CUT N? 12 (36) In this pattern you will note from Cut Number 11 that the selvages show up quite different, while in Cut Number 12 both selvages are exactly alike ; therefore, we will mark off the pattern showing the starting and stop- ping points as shown in Cut Number 12, which is correct, and should be written as follows : 12 black X — 4 red one end each eye X — 4 red one end each eye 12 black 2 white Start here 4 blue X — 2 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 4 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 2 white one eye End here 4 blue 2 white Now in writing this pattern off for the slasher man or the beamer hand, as the case might be, as shown above, instead of commencing to lay in the warp at 12 black — the first of the pattern — he would commence on the first 4 of blue as indicated, and when he finished up his last pat- tern would end on the last 4 of blue as indicated. Please bear in mind that when we go to write oft' a pattern we cannot tell how it will end up until we have worked it out up to the point where we have carried this (37) one, and that is the reason we sometimes have to mark our starting point down below the beginning of the pat- tern. However, when we once find out how the pattern will end up, and we get it laid off to best advantage, as we have now done in this case, we can re-write the pat- tern, as shown below, which will be exactly the same thing and possibly will be a more desirable arrangement for the slasher or beamer hand : m. 4 blue X- - 2 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X— - 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X- - 4 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X- - 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X- - 2 white one eye End here 4 blue 2 white 12 black X- - 4 red one end one eye X— - 4 red one end one eye 12 black 2 white 98 8 extra ends in each pat- — tern for cord, etc. 90 In this case the beamer or slasher man, when he would start to lay in the warp, would commence on the 4 of blue at first of pattern and his last pattern would end up as indicated. (38) Now we proceed to work out this pattern as follows : Referring to pattern as written on page 38 — 90)1600(17 complete patterns 90 700 630 70 ends over By referring to the pattern on page 38 we find, by counting down from first of pattern to point indicated where the last or 18th pattern should end, that we have only 62 ends called for, while we have 70 ends over that we are sup- posed to take care of. But you will note, as we have the pattern arranged, both sides are exactly alike; so in this case we will just add the other 8 ends onto the selvage, making the pattern read 20 white on each side, and the total number of ends would be as follows. First we will see how many ends of each color is called for to a pat- tern; starting at the top of pattern and picking out the blue first, we find : 40 ends of blue 14 ends of white (cord work) 12 ends of white (plain) 24 ends of black 8 ends of red 98 We find this adds up 98, which agrees with the total ends in pattern and proves it is correct. Now by referring to the above we find we have 17 complete patterns in our warp; so we find the total number of ends of each color, just as we have done in all the preceding patterns, as follows: 40 blue 14 white (cord) 12 white (plain) 24 black 8 red 17 17 17 17 17 136 280 40 98 14 84 12 168 24 680 238 204 (39) 408 Now we total it all up as follows 680 blue 238 white (for cord ) 204 white (plain) 408 black 136 red 70 the ends we have over (see Page 39) 1736 Now we find our total number of ends amounts to 1736, when our pattern is figured out on page 39 on a basis of the warp having only 1600 ends. 1736 1600 136 extra ends required on account of cord, etc. By subtracting the 1600 from 1736 we find it leaves a dif- ference of 136. This 136 ends are extra ends required in this warp on account of the corded work — that is, the extra doublings in the reed — and in order to prove our example and see if we have the right number of ends added on account of the corded work, we simply multiply the number of complete patterns we have in the warp by the number of extra ends we have to each pattern, and if it agrees with the extra ends called for, as shown above, it proves our example is correct, thus : In this warp we have 17 complete patterns, and we have 8 extra ends to each pattern on account of corded work and extra doublings in the reed; so our example would be as follows : 17 8 136 Here we find 17 multiplied by 8 gives us 186, which proves our work to be correct. Now in order to add the 70 ends we have over (on page 39) and get the right number of ends on each color, (40) we will begin at the top of the pattern (as shown on page 38) and count down to point indicated where the last pat- tern should end; taking the blue first, we have: 40 ends of blue 14 ends of white (cord work) 8 ends of white (plain) 62 8 the ends we propose to add — on selvage 70 Here we have taken care of the 70 ends we have over, as shown in our example on page 39 ; so now, in order to get the total number of ends of each color, we add the ends as shown above to the amount called for on page 39, and we have : 40 ends added to 680 totals 14 ends added to 238 totals 8 ends added to 204 totals 62 8 ends added to selvage 70 1736 Here we have a total of 1736 ends, which agrees with our total number of ends as shown on page 40 — this being another check on our work showing it is correct (as the 32 ends for selvage are not included in the above). Now when this pattern goes to the beamer or slasher man it should be written out as follows: 720 ends of blue 252 ends of white (for cord) 212 ends of white (plain) 408 ends of black 186 ends of red 8 (41) 4 blue X — 2 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 3 white one eye 4 blue 2 white 4 blue X — 4 white one eye Total Ends 4 blue 720 blue 2 white 252 white (corded work) 4 blue 252 white (plain) selvage incld. X — 3 white one eye 408 black 4 blue 2 white 4 blue 136 red 1768 X — 2 white one eye End here 4 blue 2 white 12 black X — 4 red one end one eye X — 4 red one end one eye 12 black 2 white 98 17 complete patterns. Selvage 20 ends on each side. (42) CHAPTER EIGHT All that has been written so far in this book regard- ing the importance of having both selvages of the cloth look as near alike as possible, has reference to all kinds of fancy and staple gingham, dress goods, plaids, domets, etc. ; but when it comes to bed-ticking, counterpanes, car- pets, etc., it is equally as important that we have both selvages so arranged that when the goods are sewed together along the selvages, a complete pattern will be formed, and in order to illustrate this we will take the following pattern in ticking: 36 blue 6 white 6 blue End here with 2- — 6 white 6 blue 6 white 6 blue 6 white 78 We will suppose this warp is to have 2000 ends, in addi- tion to the selvage, and we will have 40 ends for selvage — 20 on each side. So we will work out the pattern in the usual way, as follows: 78)2000(25 complete patterns 156 440 390 50 ends over Now we find we will have 25 complete patterns in the entire width of the cloth and 50 ends towards the 26th pattern, which would cause the pattern to end up at point indicated, and the cloth would show up on the sel- vage as shown in Cut Number 13. (43) THIS SPACE. REPRESENTS THt 25 COMPLLTt PATTEIRNS C UT N5 14 (44) You will note if this pattern should finish up like Cut Number 13, when the two selvages are sewed to- gether you would have a badly disfigured pattern at the seam, as yo.u would have only one small stripe of blue and white separating two of the broad stripes of blue ; there- fore it will be necessary to make a slight change in the pattern in order to make the pattern work out nearer even. In this case this pattern should be written as follows : 88 blue 6 white 6 blue 6 white 6 blue 6 white 6 blue End here 6 white 80 80)2000(25 complete patterns 160 400 400 nothing over By writing the pattern, as above, we simply use 38 of blue in the pattern instead of 36, which is a very slight change and does not change the appearance of the pat- tern in the cloth enough to be noticed, and at the same time it gives us 80 ends to each pattern instead of 78, which makes our warp divide up into even patterns and our cloth would show up like Cut Number 14, which is correct for this kind of goods. However, both selvages of this pattern could be made to look exactly alike by taking half of the 38 of blue in first pattern and placing it on the other side, and when the cloth is sewed together the results would be the same and the pattern would be written as follows : (45) start with 18 38 blue Total Ends End with 20 _/ 6 white 1400 blue 6 blue 600 white 6 white 6 blue 6 white 2000 40 ends for selvage 6 blue 2040 6 white 80 25 complete patterns, even. Selvage, 20 ends on both sides. The above pattern would be worked out as follows : 56 ends of blue to one pattern 24 ends of white to one pattern 80 Referring to page 45 we find we have 25 complete pat- terns with no ends over; therefore, we have nothing to add on. 56 blue 24 white 25 25 280 120 112 48 1400 600 (46) CHAPTER NINE In working- out a pattern that has corded work of a ply yarn, where you have only one thread of the ply yarn to a dent in the reed, when we are working on a basis of 2 ends to each dent, it should be worked as follows, taking the following pattern : End here 14 black one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) 4 black one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) 20 2 22 Here we have 2 cords in the pattern using only one end to the dent. So in cases of this kind we add just as many ends to the total ends in the pattern as there are ends left out in the reed on account of the cord, which in this case is 2 ends to the pattern (this you will note works just the reverse when using cords composed of single yarn) ; therefore we add 2 to the 20 and use the figure 22 to divide by to find the correct number of patterns in the warp. Suppose we are working on a basis of 1400 ends to the warp, we would have the following example : 22)1400(63 complete patterns 132 80 66 14 ends over (47) Black 18 ends to the pattern Cord 2 ends to the pattern 63 patterns 63 54 126 total ends 108 1134 14 the 14 ends over 1148 ends black required Here we have added the 14 ends over on to the black, which would make the pattern read as follows, and the cloth would be exactly alike on both sides: End here 14 black Total Ends one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) 1148 black 4 black 126 cord (ply yarn) one dent 1 cord (ply yarn) _ total 1274 20 126 equals 2 multiplied 2 by 63 — 1400 22 63 complete patterns. Selvage 16 on both sides. Here, you will note, our total number of ends required is only 1274, while we were working the pattern on a basis of 1400 ends; you will note also that by multiplying the 2 ends we added to each pattern by 63 — the number of complete patterns — we get 126. This amount, added to the 1274, totals 1400, which proves our example correct. (48) CHAPTER TEN BLANKET SHEETS Quite often it becomes necessary to get out a lot of samples of pattern work, especially so with the mills that make more or less of gingham, dress goods, etc. ; and it is most always customary to get them out in what is called "blanket sheets." While this is rather expensive and lots of trouble, yet it enables the mills to get out quite a variety of samples in a comparatively short time, with- out having much yarn and goods tied up in a lot of new styles before they know what styles will be most accept- able to the trade. In making blanket sheets it is simply a matter of making 2 or more different styles of patterns, side by side in the reed, all beamed on the same beam, and is simply a piece of cloth made up of different patterns, the full width of the piece being equally divided, according to the number of different patterns being made. If your pattern happens to be small and medium-sized checks, it is usually the practice to make each pattern about 7 inches wide in the reed ; therefore you can easily make 4 such patterns at a time, giving each pattern a space of 7 inches in the reed, making your warp spread 28 inches in the reed. If you should happen to have very large checks or stripes, it would possibly be necessary to make each pattern about 9 1/3 inches wide in the reed. This being the case, you would be able to weave only 3 patterns at a time, in a reed space of 28 inches. Before deciding on the width of your blanket sheets, however, it is well to first find out what ividths can be handled successfully in the finishing process. Don't under any circumstances, make your blanket sheets any wider than can be handled satisfactorily in the finishing plant. I have seen good nice samples ruined simply by (49) making them wider than the regular run of cloth in the finishing machines, making it necessary to readjust the guides, etc., on every machine, and before the few yards of samples get through, more or less of it is damaged all on account of making the goods a little too wide, in order to save a little time in the weaving. We will suppose for an illustration that we want to make the following 4 patterns into a blanket sheet form for samples, and we want each pattern to cover a space of 7 inches in the reed, making the total width in the reed 28 inches besides the selvage. We will suppose we are going to use a 27-dent reed — that is, 27 dents in the reed to the inch — and we will draw our warp in the reed 2 ends to each dent. First we must find out how many ends our entire width of blanket will contain — that is, all fou7' of the pat- terns. We have a 27-dent reed and we propose to spread our warp 28 inches, using 2 ends to each dent; therefore we have the following, using 27 dents to the inch and 2 ends to each dent : 27 2 54 ends per inch in reed Here we have 54 ends to each inch of reed space we pro- pose to use, and as we are to have a total width of 28 inches in the reed we have 54 times 28, as follows, for the total number of ends : 54 28 432 108 1512 total ends required besides selvage Now, as we are to have 4 different patterns in the width of this cloth, we divide the 1512 — total ends required for total width — by 4, thus : (50) 4)1512(378 total ends required for each pattern 12 31 2a 32 32 In working out the total number of ends required for the blanket we must work out each different pattern sepa- rately, using the 378 ends required for each. We will take the following 4 patterns: No. 1 End 6 blue ■ 6 white 12 No. 2 End 4 10 blue 4 4 4 22 white blue white 31 patterns 17 patterns Total ends 378 Total ends 378 No. 3 16 blue white blue white End 4 1 6 blue 2 white 2 2 2 2 50 blue white blue white 7 patterns Total ends 378 No. 4 8 blue 8 white 4 blue 8 white 8 blue 4 white 4 blue 4 white 4 blue 8 white 4 blue 4 white 4 blue End 2 4 white 76 4 patterns Total ends 378 7 inches < > 31 patterns 7 inches < > 17 patterns 7 inches < ^> 7 patterns 7 inches < -> 4 patterns The 28 inches reed space used Here we find, by dividing the 378 by 12— the total ends in pattern No. 1 — we have: No. 1 . No. 2 12)378(31 complete patterns 22)378(17 complete patterns 36 18 12 22 158 154 6 ends over 4 ends over (51) No. 3 No. 4 50)378(7 complete patterns 76)378(4 complete patterns 350 304 28 ends over 74 ends over Now we find the total number of ends of each color required for each different pattern. Number 1 — We find we call for 6 ends of blue and 6 ends of white to the pattern, so we refer to Number 1, on preceding page, and we find we have 31 complete patterns and 6 ends over. So we multiply the 31 by 6 to find the ends of blue required: 31 31 6 6 186 blue required 186 white required The 6 ends we have over we add on to the blue, making the total ends required for Number 1 as follows : 192 blue 186 white 378 Number 2 calls for 14 ends of blue to the pattern and 8 ends of white, and as we have 17 complete patterns in Number 2 and 4 ends over we multiply the 17 by 14: 17 17 14 8 68 136 white required 17 238 blue required The 4 ends we have over we add on the blue, making total ends for Number 2 as follows : 242 blue 136 white 378 (52) Number 3 calls for 40 ends of blue and 10 ends of white for each pattern, and as we have 7 complete patterns in Number 3 we multiply the 40 by 7: 40 - 10 7 7 280 blue required 70 white required In this pattern we have 28 ends over, so we count down from the top of the pattern until we count 28 and we find it ends on the second 16 of blue with only 4 ends, so we start at point indicated commencing with the 4 and count back to the top, and we find we require 24 ends for the blue and 4 for the white, which takes care of the 28 ends we have to add on. So we add 24 on to the blue and 4 on to the white, making total ends of each color for this pat- tern as follows : 280 70 24 4 304 blue 74 white Total ends required 304 blue 74 white 378 Number 4 — We find we require 36 of blue and 40 of white to each pattern, and as we have only 4 complete pat- terns in Number 4, we multiply the 36 by 4 to find the blue required, and 40 by 4 to find the white required. 36 40 4 4 144 blue 160 white In this pattern we have 74 ends over, and by counting down from the top to the point indicated we find our last pattern ends with 2 ends at the last 4 of white. So by counting down from top of pattern to point indicated, we find we require 36 of blue and 38 of white, which we (53) add on to each color, making the total ends required for each color in this pattern as follows: 144 160 36 38 180 blue required 198 white required 180 blue 198 white 378 Now we add all the blue called for in each of the four patterns and all the white, and we find the total ends of each color required for the blanket as follows : No. 1— Blue 192 white 186 No. 2— Blue 242 white 136 No. 3— Blue 304 white 74 No. 4— Blue 180 white 198 Total blue 918 white 594 Here we find we have total ends required — 918 blue 594 white 1512 Our total ends required, you see, agrees with the total ends we started out to work the blanket from on page 50, which proves our examples all correct. This covers the principles involved in working out any blanket sheets, and this, together with the other in- formation contained in this book, should enable anyone to work out any kind of pattern proposition that is liable to come up. (54) CHAPTER ELEVEN Note — We have used the decimal method of expressing all fractions in these examples, for the reason that they are so much more easily understood and easier to handle in calculations. For example: .1 equals i/iO (one tenth) ; .6 equals 6/iO (six tenths) ; .07 equals 7/100 (seven hundredths) ; .24 equals 24/iOO (twenty- four hundredths) .073 equals 73/1000 (seventy-three thousandths) ; .814 equals 814-1000 (eight hundred and fourteen thousandths), etc. In other words, where there is only one figure to the right of the decimal point, it expresses tenths; two figures to the right of the decimal point expresses hundredths; three fig- ures to the right of the decimal point expresses thousandths, etc. While the principal object of this book is to teach those desirous of learning, how to figure out all kinds of pattern work — what is generally termed "figuring out patterns" for gingham, fancy dress goods, plaids, ticking, etc., — it will be interesting to some, no doubt, to know how to find the width of a piece of goods, number of ends required to weave it, and about what the goods wiF weigh — that is, the number of yards per pound. So I will give a few simple rules which will enable anyone with a very slight knowledge of mathematics to under- stand. In the first place it is well to bear in mind that there is no rule that will always work out exact in cases of this kind, as it is next to impossible to hit just right on a few things that have to be estimated in figuring the width and weight of the cloth — such as the exact take- up, the exact percentage of size on the warp, etc. — and in making such calculations it is necessary to use reason- able judgment in allowing for the take-up in weaving in width and length; also in the amount of size on the warp, keeping in mind the fact that there is no sizing on the filling. (55) TO FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF SIZING ON A WARP Take one average warp, weigh it before it is sized and then weigh the mme warp after it is sized and you will get a fair average. Thus, if the warp weighs 100 pounds before it is sized and the same warp weighs 107 pounds afterwards, you have: 107 weight after being s;zed 100 weight before being sized 7 100 Weight of warp before being sized > 100)700(7 per cent size on warp 700 TO FIND HOW MUCH THE CLOTH WILL TAKE UP IN WIDTH If convenient go to a loom weaving on a similar piece of goods and see how wide it is in the reed and then measure it down on the cloth roller. First see that the warp has about the right tension, as you can very easily vary the width of the cloth one-half inch or more by tightening or loosening up on the beam weights. On ordinary gingham, etc., with about 28-inch reed space, the goods will come off the loom about 26 14 to 27 inches wide. If the goods should be of a rather open construction it will pull down to as low as 26 inches, while if it is closely woven it will average about 27 inches. On wider goods, the difference, of course, will be in pro- portion to the width. TO FIND THE TAKE-UP IN LENGTH This will vary according to the picks per inch being put in, also according to the number of yarn of the filling used and the number of warp yarn and the nature of the weave — that is, whether it is a plain weave or a three or four harness twill, etc. — so it is a good idea to get a similar piece of cloth just like it comes off the loom (that is, before it is finished) , cut off 10 inches in length, warp way, pull out a few warp ends, straighten them out good and see how much longer the warp threads are than the (55) piece of cloth; if the cloth is 10 inches long and the warp ends measure out 10 1/2 inches long, you have a 5 per cent, take-up, thus : Subtracter 10.5 warp ends iO.O cloth .5 100 Divisor 100)500(5 per cent take-up 500 In order to simplify this rule, we simply use the decimal point thus, 10.5, which is the same as 101/^. Rule: In finding the percentage of take-up by this rule sub- tract the length in inches of the cloth from the length of the warp ends in inches, multiply this difference by 100 and then divide by length of cloth in inches, using same number of figures for divi- sor as are used in subtracting. TO FIND NUMBER OF ENDS REQUIRED FOR GIVEN WIDTH Suppose you wanted to weave a piece of goods 28 inches wide in the reed and you were going to use a 29- dent reed (that is, 29 dents to the inch) and you wanted to have 2 ends to each dent; find the number of ends required : 29 dent reed 2 ends in each dent 58 ends in one inch 28 inches wide in reed 464 116 1624 ends required besides the selvage (This cloth would come off the loom about one inch or one and a half inches less in width, according to the yarn used, picks put in, weight on loom beam, etc.) (57) CHAPTER TWELVE HOW TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT OF GOODS BEFORE BEING WOVEN On pages 56 and 57 we have explained how to find the percentage of sizing and take-up. Now when you go to work in the sizing and take-up, work it in as follows : First, supposing you have 5 per cent, sizing on your warp and the take-up amounts to 10 per cent. ; add them both together, making it 15 per cent, size and take-up. But instead of multiplying by 15 make it 1.15, placing the decimal point before the 15 as shown. Take the pattern as we have worked out in Chapter One, we have a total of 1432 ends : 1432 Total ends in warp 1.15 Size and take-up 1160 1432 1432 1646.80 This is the dividend for warp only. Note — Bring down your decimal point. Now for a divisor for the warp only, multiply 840 by the number of warp yarn you propose to use. We will sup- pose we are going to use for this warp No. 26's : 840 26 number of warp yarn 5040 -1680 21840 Divisor for warp only PIVIDEND Divisoft-,- 21840) 1%46.80 (.075 weight of warp in one yard of 1528.80 cloth 118.000 109.200 (58) Now we have gotten out the weight of the warp for one yard of cloth, so we next get out the weight of filling for one yard. To determine this, . however, we must know what number of filling we propose to use, the num- ber of pic'ks to the inch, and the width of warp in the reed. REED: We will use a 26-dent reed, 2 threads to each dent, which will give us 52 threads to the inch in the reed. PICKS: We will have 54 picks to the inch in this goods and we will use No. 24's yarn for filling. In order to be exact, regarding the width in the reed, we should deduct just half of the number of warp ends we propose to use for selvage (as the selvage is drawn 4 ends to the dent) from total ends in warp, when figur- ing for the width in the reed, but as that little difference amounts to practically nothing in figuring the weight, we will take the total number of ends to figure from. Now we divide the 1432 by 52, which is the number of warp ends to each inch of reed space ; this, of course, vill give us the width in inches in the reed. Thus: 52)1432(27.54 inches wide in the reed 104 392 364 280 260 200 208 Now, as we are to have 54 picks of filling to the inch, in order to find the length of filling used to one inch of cloth we multiply the 27.54 by 54, thus : (59) 27.54 width in reed 54 picks per inch 110 16 1377 Divid'd for filling (yards) 1487.16 inches of filling used in one inch of cloth or Yards of filling used in one yard of cloth Now the 1487.16 yards above is our dividend for the filling, and to get the divisor for the filling we multiply the number of filling we propose to use by 840, thus : 840 24 No. of filling yarn 3360 1680 20160 Divisor QIVIPEND DivjsoR^^ 20160) 1^487.16 (.073 of a pound weight of filling to 1411 20 one yard of cloth 75 960 60 480 15 480 Now to find the yards per pound of this goods, we add together the 73/1000 of a pound (weight of filling to one yard of cloth) to the 75/1000 of a pound (weight of warp to one yard of cloth) and divide 1000 by that product, thus: 73 filling 75 warp 148)1000(6.77 yards per pound. Weight of goods 888 1120 1016 1040 1016 (60) Note — In working out the weight of a piece of goods you should not fail to carry your decimal point on through as outlined. It requires several small calculations to figure out what a piece of goods will weigh, yet you will note that this, like all the other examples in this book, is worked down to the plain and sim- ple rules of addition, subtraction, multiplication and division, and if you can do that, you will have no trouble to master everything in this book. CORDED GOODS Take the pattern as shown and explained in Chapter Six, which has 184 ends for cord work. The cord in this pattern should be run on a separate beam from the rest of the warp, as it will not take-up in weaving like the other part of the warp. In fact, this cord will lay prac- tically straight in the cloth. Therefore, there will be no take-up to allow for these 184 ends. We will figure the weight of this piece of goods, taking the same construc- tion, number of warp and filling, etc., as we used in the preceding example, which would make the goods weigh the same as the piece of goods illustrated in Chapter One, as shown in example on page 60, but for the additional ends required on account of the doubling for cord work which will cause this piece of goods to run a little heavier, as you will note by the following examples : Total ends in warp 1524 Deducting ends for cord 184 1340 1.15 per cent, size and take-up 6700 1340 1340 1541.00 part of dividend 184 ends cord 1.05 per cent of sizing only 920 184 193.20 other part of dividend (61) Now for a complete dividend, we add both parts of the dividend together, thus : 1541.00 193.20 1734.20 Dividend For a divisor for the warp we multiply 840 by the number of warp yarn, thus : 840 26 No. Divi of a of warp 5040 1680 DIVIDEND 21840 sor Divisoa-^ 21840) 1734.20 (.079 1528 80 pound. ' yard of - 205 400 196 560 Weight of one 8 840 Now, as we are to have the same spread in the reed, picks, and number of filling in this piece of goods as we had in the piece as illustrated in Chapter One and as figured out on pages 59 and 60, the weight of filling in one yard of this cloth would of course be the same ; therefore the weight of this piece of goods would be as follows = 79 warp 73 filling 152)1000(6.57 yards per pound. Weight of goods. 912 880 760 1200 1054 You will notice that on account of the extra ends used in the corded work in this piece of goods, it will run prac- tically 20 points heavier than the same goods without the corded work ; which means that out of every 200 yards (62) of the goods with the cord you would use about one pound more cotton than you would in the same goods without the cord work. Counting cotton at 10 cents per pound, this would mean about 5/100 (five one hun- dredths) of a cent extra cost per yard. TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT OF GOODS AFTER THEY ARE WOVEN. Use yards for dividend, and pounds for a divisor, thus: . ^^^^2s ^ ^°^^^" ^1024)7103(6.93 yards per pound 6144 9590 9216 3740 3072 Suppose you have one piece of goods 4514 yards long that weighs 6 pounds and 12 ounces. Multiply the yards, 4514, by 16 for a dividend, thus: 45.25 equals 45 1/4 16 27150 452 5 724.00 dividend Now multiply the 6 pounds by 16 and then add to this product the other 12 ounces for a divisor, thus : 16 pounds 6 96 12 ounces DIVIDEND 108 divisor OlVlSOR.^ 108)724.00 648 (6.70 yards per pound 760 756 40 (63) CHAPTER THIRTEEN TO FIGURE THE WEIGHT, ETC., OF WARPS TO FIND THE WEIGHT OF A WARP For a dividend multiply the number of ends by the number of yards : 1700 yards 1600 ends 1020000 1700 2720000 Dividend For a divisor, multiply the number of yarn by 840 840 26 No. of yarn 5040 1680 21840 Divisor 21840)2720000(124.54 pounds. Weight of warp 21840 53600 43680 99200 87360 118400 109200 92000 87360 TO FIND THE LENGTH OF A WARP Multiply the weight of the warp by the number of yarn and then multiply that product by 840 for a divi- dend, thus: (64) 124.54 weij 26 No. of of warp yarn 747 24 2490 8 3238 04 840 12952 160 259043 2 2719953.60 Dividend For a divisor use the number of ends to the warp as follows : Ends in warp 1 600) 2719953.60 ( 1600 11199 9600 15995 14400 15953 14400 15536 14400 11360 11200 warp TO FIND THE NUMBER OF YARN OF A WARP Multiply the net weight of the warp by 840 for a divisor, thus: 124.52 weight of warp 840 498 080 99616 10459 6.i& Divisor (here we cancel the decimal) For a dividend multiply the length of the warp in yards by the total number of ends it contains, thus: (65) 1700 yards long 1600 ends in warp 1020000 1700 2720000 Dividend 104596) 2720000 (26 s number of yarn 209192 628080 627576 (66) CHAPTER FOURTEEN In order to be able to figure the production of a room or section without going through a long string of calcula- tions each time to do so, it is a good idea to have your loom and cloth constant to figure from, thus making the work short and simple. To find your loom constants for 10 hours per day or 60 hours per week, any speed, multiply speed of loom by 6. Example- Loom speed 160 6 960 Constant Another example- Loom speed 170 6 1020 Constant TO FIND CONSTANT FOR CLOTH— ANY LENGTH CUTS Multiply picks per inch by 36. Example'- 50 picks per inch 36 300 . . 150 1800 constant for 50 pick goods Another example: 56 pick goods 36 336 168 2016 constant for 56 pick goods (67) HOW TO FIND THE PERCENTAGE OF PRODUCTION First, multiply all the looms run for the week of any one speed by the constant for that speed. For all the looms you wish to figure on, of different speeds, figure them out as above suggested and add the product of each example together for a divisor, thus : We will suppose we have a section of 60 looms, 30 of which have a speed of 160 pick and the other 30 a speed of 170 pick; we will also suppose now that these 60 looms have run all the week (6 days), so we have- — 30 looms, speed 160 — run 6 days 6 equals 180 looms run one day at 160 pick 30 looms, speed 170 — run 6 days 6 equals 180 looms run one day at 170 pick 180 looms run at 160 960 constant 10800 1620 172800 part of divisor in this case 180 looms run at 170 1020 constaiit 3600 180 183600 other part of divisor in this, case 183600 172800 356400 Divisor For a dividend multiply total yards of each kind of goods woven by the constant for that kind of goods; if more than one kind of goods is woven, add the product of each together; this will give you the dividend, thus: We will suppose we wove on this section for the week the following: (68) 7200 yards of 50 pick goods 9000 yards of 56 pick goods Note — It makes no difference which looms the goods are woven on, just so it comes off the looms included in our calcula- tions. 7200 yards of 50 pick goods 1800 constant for 50 pick goods 5760000 7200 12960000 Part of dividend 9000 yards 56 pick goods 2016 constant, for 56 pick goods 54000 9000 18000 18144000 the other part of dividend 18144000 12960000 31104000 Dividend Now divide the dividend by the divisor, which will give a percentage of possible production, thus : 356400)31104000(87 per cent, production 2851200 2592000 2494800 While it has taken right much figuring to make this rule clear to the inexperienced, yet, if you will study it closely you will find after all it is quite simple. The idea, of course, is to get out the constants for the different speeds of looms you happen to be running, also for the different kinds of goods you are running on; and it is only a few minutes work to figure the entire production for a large room, running on quite a mix-up of different speeds and different pick goods. Each section, of course, (69) is supposed to be worked out on the same basis; if you wish to figure them separately, take the average length of cuts to get at the yards woven on each section of the different kinds of goods. The entire calculation can be shortened considerably by cutting off the ciphers in the constants ; but in taking advantage of this method be sure you cut off the sam^ number of ciphers or figures in the loom constants as you do in the cloth constants. A short way, however, to figure the production for a large room, when there are more or less looms of different speeds, first get the average speed. Rule — Multiply all the looms run of one speed by the speed (picks per minute) and add these products together for a divi- dend. Then add all the looms run together and take this product for a divisor, thus: 180 multiplied by 160 equals 28800 180 multiplied by 170 equals 30600 Divisor 360 Dividend 59400 360)59400(165 average speed 360 2340 2160 1800 1800 Note — Take any number of looms you may happen to have of different speeds and you will get the average speed by following the above rule, 165 average speed of loom 6 990 constant for speed of 165 pick 360 looms run 59400 2970 356400 Divisor Note — By this method you will see we get the same divisor as we have on page 68, which of course will give same results as shown on page 69. (70) INDEX To Find Percentage of Size on Warps 56 To Find Take-up in Cloth in Width 56 To Find Take-up in Cloth in Length 56 To Find Ends Required for Given Width of Cloth 57 How to Figure Weight of Goods Before Being Woven 58 How to Figure Weight of Goods Before Being Woven (Cord Work) 61 How to Figure Weight of Goods After Being Woven 63 How to Figure Weight of Warps 64 How to Find Length of Warps 64 How to Find Number of Yarn of a Warp 65 How to Find Loom Constant 67 How to Find Cloth Constant 67 How to Figure the Percentage of Production 68 How to Find the Average Speed of Looms Running on Dif- ferent Speeds 69-70 (71) ■.•^•^••.••.•■.••••••••••••••••••••••••••••■••••••••••••••••••••••••'••'••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••^•••••••••••^•••^f ''Textile news generally appears in the Mill News first." — s.k.oliver. Agent, Columbia Mills, Columbia, S. C. ''It has become a thing that the whole family looks forward to." — N. T. BROWN, Supt. Pilot Cotton Mills Company, Raleigh, N. C. MILL NEWS, Charlotte, N. C. ■•••••«••■••••«••••••••••■••••••••■••••••••■••«••••••••••«•••••••••••••••••<••••••••••••••••■•••••-••••••••.•.. '•••••••••••"•••••••"•"•^•••••••"••••••••'••••••••••••■•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••^•-•^••••-•- I EMMONS LOOM HARNESS CO. THE LARGEST MANUFACTURERS OF LOOM HARNESS AND REEDS IN AMERICA LOOM HARNESS AND REEDS COTTON HARNESS for all kinds of Plain and Fancy Weaves in Cotton and Silk Goods. MAIL HARNESS for Cotton, Duck, Worsted, Silk and Woolen Goods. SELVEDGE HARNESS, any depth up to 25 inches for Weaving Tape Selvedges. REEDS for Cotton, Woolen, Silk and Duck. SLASHER and STRIKING COMBS WARPER and LEICE REEDS BEAMER and DRESSER HECKS MENDING EYES and TWINE JACQUARD HEDDLES LAWRENCE, MASS. ••■••••»•_•..•„•..•.. -••••-••<•>•••• the chemically correct size produces the best results. A well-sized warp goes a long way towards good weaving production. Seydel Mfg. Go. Jersey City "•••••••••••••••••••■•••••"••••"•"•••••••••••••"•■••■•.■•••■.■•.'••••••••••••••■••••••••■••••••••«•••••■••••••••••■•••••••••..-.-...• >•••••••••••••••■••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••-••••••••■•••••■•••.•••■■.••.•■.•■•■■••••••••■••■•••••••••••••••••••••••••»••.•..••.•>• WE ARE MANUFACTURERS OF ALL KINDS OF Loom Castings, Grate Bars, Gears, Gear-Blanks, Warp Dyeing Machines, Etc. Our Work Guaranteed. Our Shops at your service. ? Our prices right. We sohcit your business. SYKES BROTHERS Foundry and Machine Shop Burlington, N. C. t SHAMBOW SHUTTLE THE successful overseer is the one who equips his ^^ weave shed with good weavers. Good weavers mean increased yardage. Bear in mind that Sham- bow Shuttles are good weavers. They favor loom produc- tion by greatly reducing the annoying warp and filling break- ages so often traceable to shuttles of poor design, timber and workmanship, and thus save labor of weavers, loomfixers and cloth in- spectors. Shambow Shuttles were known as quality shuttles long before the days of hand threading. You now get our extremely efficient hand-threader in a shuttle even higher in quality than ever before. Send sample shuttle with fllling carrier for out quotation, etc. Shambow Shuttle Co. WOONSOCKET, B. I. u -^^.^ fO* .i:j%*o, ,4.* •'"• ^- <-^ '^•** .^^ „.. ^-^ *^^V^ rf >°'^te. 1> ^°%. -^ ■** .0^ « o » • ♦ *>- .4:' 4? "^ o.'^^U^ \*^^\/ %*^-*/ ^^^ *5 '^oV^ L» OP' .*<^ 'c %r — ~ I,; " , HECKMAN ^" BINDERY INC. ^ JAN 90 * A '^