TiBRARY OF CONGRESS ■■■■■I 000115^5534 . B e r m u da Past and Present iii^giS m. .^ : ''^'S: tJ^ ^ ^ BY ADALINE E. VANDERPOEL iimmsmMMii^: PRIVATELY PRINTED V» NEW YORK NINETEEN HUNDRED AND TWO 'Mh'I^ A^fi^^- Copyrighted 1902. /'» / i t has been said that the Bermuda Islands are the most isolated inhabited land on the face of the earth, still it is difficult for any one who sees them in their present beauty to realize that for nearly a century after they were discovered they were regarded with ter- ror by all mariners. They were known as " The Devil's Islands," full of bad weather, storms and evil spirits ; a land in which it was impossible for human beings to live. But in 1609, the Sea Advent'- small fleet sent from England ■. of Virginia, was separated fr 3 J2 6 n ~" ^ Bermuda Past and Present '^ 1 during a violent storm and wrecked on the coral reefs that surround the islands. The vessel was lost, but all on board, one hundred and fifty in number, reached the land in safety and also suc- ceeded in saving the ship's rigging and stores. The sailors were amazed at finding neither gnomes nor pixies on the island. Wild hogs, good for food, roamed in the cedar woods; fish were plentiful in the water close to the shore and the climate was so delightful, many wished to remain in a country that had proved so attrac- tive. But Sir George Somers, the commander of the expedition, felt that they ought to carry out the orders given to them when they left England, and go to Virginia. Two small vessels were built of the cedar wood in which the islands abound, and nine er the shipwreck the whole party ^irginia. On arriving there they iny destroyed, and Sir George and :e returned to Bermuda, intending .1^ colony on the Island of St. George wnicri naa Deen named for him. But he was no longer a young man, and the fatigue and ex- posures and disappointments of the repeated voyages proved too exhausting, and he died soon after landing. His discouraged men returned to England, taking his body with them; but his heart, at his own request, was buried on the island that still bears his name. The stories told by the sailors on their return roused the interest of the English Government, and, in 1611, a shipload of emigrants was sent out, under the charge of Sir Richard Moore, to take formal possession of the islands. The story of the quarrels among the early colonists and the sufferings they endured from the depredations of the Spanish Buccaneers would be too long for me to tell, and although they grew and prospered there is nothing of special interest to Americans in that part of their history until the time of our Revoluntionary War. Then their sympathy for us was shown in a most practical way, for when General Wash- ington, before the evacuation of Boston, heard that a quantity of ammunition was stored in a remote part of the islands, he wrote to some prominent Bermudians telling of his great need iind his wish to purchase the powder; thev re- plied that he should have it, and the powder came in time, but so secretly that how it was broue;ht to this country was known only to those actuallv engfag-ed in the transfer. In later times Cone^ress g-ranted the right to export provision to Bermuda m return for this act of kindness to the colonies m their struggle for independence. In 1804, Tom Moore, the Irish poet, was ap- pointed Registrar of the Court of Vice Admiralty in Bermuda. He was delighted with the honor and supposed that the salary would be large. Great was his disappointment, on arriving at his post, to find that his perquisites depended prin- cipally on war, and that in times of peace his revenue would be very small. He wrote to his mother that even a war with Spain would not make it worth his while to stay in such a primi- tive country, and he soon returned to England., But he felt the charm of the wonderful Bermu- dian coloring and the climate with its aromatic breath of the cedars, and some of the best de- scriptions of the islands are to be found in his odes and letters. His warm, genial nature made I — Bermuda Past and Present many friends, and his memory was so cherished that on the one hundredth anniversary o£ his birth the town flag was raised at St. George in memory of his connection with the islands, and some of his stanzas describing their beauty were posted on the flag staff and read by the passers by with great interest. In these days few tourists go to Bermuda who do not visit his home at Walsingham and the old Calabash tree of which he so often wrote. The chimney of his room, with its blue tiles, is unchanged and the cedar doors and casement are blackened by time. Even his peculiarities are still remembered. Among others, his dislike to mice that almost amounted to fear. He had an- other foible which men are fond of saying be- longs exclusively to women, but my observation in life has convinced me that it is masculine as well as feminine. He was exceedingly inquisitive. A lady at whose house he was a frequent visitor, one day, when she was expecting him to call, in a spirit of mischief placed a mouse in her work box and turned the key but left it in the lock. "Vv/^hen the poet entered he took his seat by the ^? Bermuda Past and Present 1' table on which the box stood and soon began to play with the key. The temptation was irresis- tible ; he turned the key and raised the lid, when, to his great disgust, the mouse jumped into his lap. It is said that he never forgave the lady for her mischievous trick, and to her were addressed the familiar lines, "When I loved you, I can't but allow, I had many an exqusite minute, But the scorn that I feel for you now Hath even more luxury in it! Thus whether we're on or we're off Some witchery seems to await you. To love you is pleasant enough And oh! tis delicious to hate you." Moore only remained in Bermuda for four months, but he continued to draw his salary for forty years, and then was removed from the office on the ground of "continued non-resi- dence." Could the poet return to Bermuda at the pres- ent time, he would wonder at the changes that ■" ■^ ^ Bermuda Past and Present "*? 1 have taken place. A massive causeway nearly two miles in length now connects the island of St. George with the larger island of Bermuda, and the town of St. George, which was the prin- cipal place of business in 1804 and also the centre of military and naval life, is now quite super- seded by Hamilton, with its more central loca- tion, better business facilities and fine hotels. The seat of Government was removed there in 181 5 from St. George by Governor Hamilton, whose name was given to the new city. The Parliament House there and the Post Office would be considered fine buildings in any country. Ireland Island has one of the largest and best dockyards in the world. There are forts on every point and red coats and marines are seen everywhere. At first, a stranger wonders why these small islands are so well fortified, for they rank next to Gibraltar in England's strong fortifications. But they are the rendezvous for the British fleet in the Atlantic Ocean, and, with Halifax in the north. Englishmen feel that the whole Atlantic Coast of the United States is under their sur- veillance. But we feel sure that this is only in a spirit of true friendliness, for during the last twenty years these lovely islands have been a winter home to many Americans who are warmly welcomed by the residents. And the change from our cold winters to a land of sunshine and flowers is most welcome. The Flora of Bermuda is wonderful, though not indigenous to the soil. One of the English Governors, in the early part of the eighteenth century, sent to the West Indies for a variety of tropical plants, which have grown and flourished in their new home, and it is said there is not a poisonous plant in the islands. The hedges of Oleander, sometimes twelve feet high, are beautiful with their great clusters of red, white and pink flowers. The Poinsetta is much prized in northern greenhouses for the large red flowers at the extreme end of its green stalk, but in Bermuda, the stems, leaves and blos- soms are all a brilliant red and make a bright spot in the landscape. Scarlet geraniums and lantanas grow everywhere and the rose geranium is equally common, but is usually called "the Bermuda Past and Present ^ graveyard geranium," as pillows are made of its fragrant leaves to place under the head of those who are resting in their "last dreamless sleep." All are familiar with pictures of the large fields of Bermuda lilies, but it may not be generally known that onions are often cultivated in the same field and are called "Bermuda Violets." We are told that "a rose by any other name will srnell as sweet," and I am equally sure that an onion whether it is called violet, mignonette or snow-drop will still retain the peculiar odor by which it is recognized in all lands. There are many interesting churches in Ber- muda. The old Devonshire church dates back to 1 7 19 and is still standing, though no longer used, for the walls have been pronounced unsafe. At one end of the church is a cedar tree, the oldest in the islands, from whose topmost branch the bell was hung that for more than a century called the congregation together for daily and weekly services. It is dead now, but in its hollow trunk is a vigorous young tree growing up as if determined to carry on the good work begun by its ancestor. 9 L Bermuda Past and Present SP The Mother Church in the islands is St. Peter's in the town of St. George. The present walls were built in 1713, and at first the roof was thatched, but in 1765 this was replaced by one of stone, which still remains. The massive silver communion service given by King William III. is still in constant use. But the service most frequented on Sunday morning by strangers is held in what is called the Garrison Church, near the barracks at Prospect. It is a lovely drive from Hamilton, and not a long walk for good pedestrians. A large West Indian regiment is now stationed there, and the contrast between their shining ebony faces and sleeveless red coats worn over full white shirts was very picturesque as they marched in and took their places. I have heard the Te Deum in some of the finest churches in Italy, but it has seldom seemed to me more impressive than in that barn-like building, used as a gymnasium six days in the week, with a temporary altar at one end and the walls covered with ropes and swings and ladders and bars. The voices of the men were so full and strong, led by their own band, which is said to ^JP ^ Bermuda Past and Present be one of the finest in the British Army. After service the band usually plays for an hour on the green near the church, and the music is good even if not strictly devotional. The colored race in Bermuda seemed to me much superior to that in our own country. Bet- ter looking, better mannered, and far more effi- cient as house servants. But, oh suffering house- keepers of this southern land, *'ye must possess your souls in patience," for slavery was abolished in these islands in 1834, and if nearly three- score years and ten are required to make good servants of freed blacks, I fear that few of you who are now struggling with the great prob- lem wdll live to see it solved. The Boer prisoners excite a good deal of interest in modern Bermuda. Last December two thousand were confined on two of the islands. They are housed in Bell tents with plank floors and are as well fed as the soldiers in the English Army. Their meat alone costs the British Gov- ernment a thousand dollars a day, and last sum- mer, while the drought prevailed in Bermuda, water was carried to them from St. George's ^ Bermuda Past and Present ^ I.., ' ,, ,. ™^. ™ ~- __ at one hundred dollars a day. I was told on good authority that the meat and groceries and vegetables furnished them were of the best. Eng- land knows that the whole civilized world is watching to see how these prisoners are treated, and even if she were not influenced by the higher motive of humanity, she would care justly for them. The only work required of them is to prepare their own food and take care of their own quarters, but if they wish to work there are trees to be cut on the islands they occupy, and some fertile spots to be cultivated. If they choose to do this work they are well paid for doing it, but it is optional with them. Many employ their time in making children's toys out of the red cedar wood or in carving brooches or other trinkets out of bones. There is a shop on one of the principal streets where these things are sold at a good price, only a small percentage being allowed to the saleswomen and the rest of the money goes to the prisoners. The day that the steamer sails for New York the shop is al- most emptied of its contents, for most tourists Vv^ish to take away some memento of such a "" s» Bermuda Past and Present S» strange people. Many of them are living more comfortably than they have ever done before, but they are captives and captivity is always hard to bear. The islands they occupy are protected by many straight rows of barbed wire which are crossed and recrossed by the same material so many times it would seem impossible for any one to get away, yet one man contrived to escape and went up to New York on a steamer as a stoker. His fellow stokers knew that he was an escaped prisoner, but no one betrayed him, and on reach- ing New York, he was feasted and feted by many who sympathized with his cause. Two young English officers sat smoking one day, and were idly watching rather a laree box that seemed tossed back and forth on the water, when one of them sprang: to his feet and ex- claimed. "There's something- wrong about that box, for it is steadily making its wav aeainst the tide !" A boat was sent out. and a Boer was found under the box. When asked how he could expect to escape in that way, he said he hoped to get into the interior for he knew he could take care of himself if he could only get there. The poor fellow did not realize that there is lao interior in Bermuda. At no point is the largest island more than three miles in width, and although there is a great growth of cedar woods on the island yet those woods are crossed at short intervals by roads broad enough for three horses to go abreast. I often wondered if being on an island did not add to the bitterness of exile, for many of the prisoners had never seen a river or lake or any body of water until they were taken to Durban to embark on their long voyage. What matters it to them that the Bermuda Islands are three hundred and sixty-five in num- ber when they can see but few of them, and the water all around is less attractive to them than the broad velts of their own land? But to us who were free to go and come as we pleased that water was always beautiful, and we found the good roads on all parts of the islands a great pleasure. These roads were cut by the convicts when Boaz Island was used by England as a penal station, through the coral rock of which the islands are formed, and whether they lead through cedar woods or through walls of rock ^? Bermuda Past and Present ^ 1 — _l nearly fifteen feet high or on a level, with nothing to obstruct the view of the sparkling ocean on one side and the sound studded with islands on the other, they are always hard and smooth. There are many beautiful drives on the islands and the excursions by water even more numerous. The sky and water are so blue and bright there is everything in Bermuda to make life out of doors delightful and health giving. . Have any of you bronchial tubes that refuse to do their work? Go to Bermuda; the soft air will bring healing strength. Have any of you rheumatic twinges? The place is a panacea for those woes. Are any of you haunted by that dreadful "something still undone that waits and will not go away?" Go to Bermuda. The soothing Spanish "Mariana" must have crept across the water from Mexico for Bermudians are never hurried. If a thing is not finished to-day, it can be done to-morrow or the day after or the next day — there is time enough. And that is a lesson good for wearied nerves to learn. And lest I should be considered too enthusiastic about these beautiful islands, I will close this ■■ ' "■— ■■ ■ 1 v» Bermuda Past and Present ^ , , paper with the even more positive words of another : "Nowhere can be found within the compass of nineteen square miles so much that is novel, beau- tiful and interesting with such air and such sunshine and such peace as can be found in Bermuda."