r *l:^'* > • % ^ *!k 0" .^'JJ*-. "o^ .-^ r .1^% Ti 0~ • • • . 'f^ ^ ..^♦•* "^ < F V «: >^ v^ ■y * *-., O t> '^-^{T^C !. • •» C\ .•^' Published by the ESSEX INSTITUTE The Historical Collections Essex Institute Historical. Genealogical arid Antiquarian Published quarterly, each volume containing over four hundred pages with an exhaustive index and numerous illustrations. Volumes I— LII [I859-I9I6]» $150.00. Subscription, $2.00 per annum. Send for List of Publications. ^e Essex Institute^ Salem, Mass. BRIEF ITINERARY This itinerary begins and ends at the railroad station and is ar- ranged to cover only the most important places of interest. Market, Front street, established in 1816. See also page 126. Grimshawe House, 53 Charter street, where Miss Sophia A. Peabody lived before marrying Hawthorne. This house is described in Hawthorne's story of "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." It adjoins the Charter street burial ground on the west and is now much altered in appearance. See also page 52. Charter Street Burial Ground, "Old Burying point," the earli- est place of burial in Salem, 1630. Gov. Simon Bradstreet (called the Nestor of New England) was buried here in 1697, and here lie the Brownes, Lyndes, Hathornes, Turners, Parkmans. Higginsons and the early ancestors of many other leading Massachusetts families. Capt. Richard More, who came in the "Mayflower," is buried here, and his gravestone is the only original stone of a Mayflower passenger known to exist. The oldest stone is dated 1673. See tablet on the gate. See also page 165. Derby Street, exhibiting evidences of Salem's former commercial prosperity. See also page 24. Old Ladies' Home, 180 Derby street, was built for Benjamin W. Crowninshield, M. C. and Secretary of the Navy. It was afterwards the residence of Gen. Tames Miller, the hero of Lundy Lane (1814). See also page 145. Custom House, 178 Derby street, where Hawthorne began the ''Scarlet Letter." His surveyor's stencil plate may be seen here. The desk upon which he wrote is at the Essex Institute. .Gen. James Miller was at one time Collector. See also pages 60 and 123. "House of the Seven Gables" (so called), 54 Turner street, built about 1669 ; a favorite haunt of Hawthorne ; now restored, with six furnished rooms, a secret staircase, furniture, relics and a "cent shop." Admission 25c. In the old-time garden in the rear is "The Old Bakery," built 1683, now restored, that formerly stood at 23 Washington Street. See also page 54. BRIEF ITINERARY Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne, 27 Union street, built be- XX7 u- ^^ ^''^^ ^^^'■^ ^^^^^ J^^y '^' 1804. 5^^ also page 47 Washington Square -(Salem Common) reserved for a "traininR held and now showing style of houses built early in the last century Near by, 26 Winter street, lived Justice Storv, and in this house, still standmg but somewhat altered, the eminent poet and sculptor W W htory was born and Lafayette was entertained here in 1824. ' Andrew ^foHse 13 Washington Square, built 1818, by uncle of Gov. John A. Andrew who frequented it. Roger Conant statue at the head of Brown street. See also page 169. Hawthorne's Residence, 14 Mall Street, where the ^reat romancer wrote "The Scarlet Letter." See also page 51 Essex Institute, 132-134 Essex Street, founded 1848, succeeding Essex Historical Society, 182L and Essex County Natural History Society, 1833. Has for its object the promotion of History, Science ^. nn ? '^ ^''f'' C°™ty. Is supported by an annual assessment of ij)3.00 from each of its members, the income from its funds and vol- untary contributions from its friends; maintains lecture courses his- torical and scientific publications, a museum and picture gallerv a library of 500,000 volumes,-historv, genealogy, newspapers, manu- scripts and special libraries on China and the Chinese and the Com- mercial Marme. Prescott. the historian, was born in a house for- merly on the site of the Museum Building, where also lived Nathan Kead, M. C, who built and navigated a steamboat on Danvers river 18 years before Fulton. Tn the first house on this site lived Emanuel Downing; his son George, for whom Downing Street, London, was named ; and Gov. Simon Bradstreet, who died here. WHAT TO SEE. Picture Gallery. Portraits of Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Fitch (CoP- /^;) Mrs. Forrester {Stuart), Alexander Hamilton {Trumbull) Sir William Pepperrell {Smibert), Henry Wheatland, M D {Vhi- ton), and many others ; 17th century furniture ; witchcraft documents and relics; tea from the Boston Tea Party; the Governor Bradford ' baptismal shirt and blanket brought over in the "Mayflower" • the Scarlet Letter" law book ; Paul Revere engravings ; old silver, m'inia tures, fans, funeral rings, etc. BRIEF ITINERARY Museum Hall. Furnished rooms — kitchen (1750) ; bedroom (1800) ; parlor (1800) ; 18th century furniture; large collection of New England costume ; Revolutionary and Civil War weapons and relics; flag from which the name "Old Glory" originated (1831) ; the Cape Ann charter ( 1623) ; one horse chaise (1785) ; desk used at the Custom House by Hawthorne (in front gallery) ; gibbet from ()uebec, which once held the body of a murderess (1763) ; large collections of glass and pottery, tools, implements, toys, dolls, etc. Garden (in rear), 17th century house (1684) with overhanging second story and peaked windows in the roof, the rooms on the first floor are furnished in the manner of the period, the leanto contains an apothecary shop (1830), a Salem "cent shop" (1830), and a weave room; garden of 17th century flowers; old time well sweep; small shoe maker's shop with equipment of about 1830; Mclntire porch (1806) ; porch from the "Grimshawe house"; first Quaker Meeting house in Salem (1688) ; cupola from the roof of the Pick- man-Derby-Brookhouse mansion containing the Gome fresco (about 1790) ; mile stone (1711) ; etc. Peabody Museum, 161 Essex Street. Founded and endowed by George Peabody in 1867. Includes museum of East India Marine Society, founded in 1799. Ethnological, natural history and com- mercial marine collections. {Circular of information at the door, free.). WHAT TO SEE. Entrance Corridor. Whaling exhibit ; model of whaler "Sea Fox", whaling irons and bomb-lances ; nautical instruments : nocturnal (1724), Davis quadrant (1750), circle of reflection, sextant used by Dr. Livingstone the African explorer, artificial horizons ; builders' hull-models of Salem ships. Marine Room. Relics of East India Marine Society (1799), earliest rigged model of the frigate "Constitution", models of ship "Friendship" (1797), privateer ''America" (1812) ; portraits of Wil- liam Gray, Elias Hasket Derby, the wealthiest man in America in 1 799, Joseph Peabody, Capt. John Bertram ; paintings of old Salem ships, "Grand Turk", "Mount Vernon", "Ulysses" and ''Cleopatra's BRIEF ITINERARY Barge", the first American yacht to visit Europe (1816) ; box-wood carving, "Heaven and the Day of Judgment" (14th century). Natural History Hall (up stairs). Essex County collections, golden eagle, wild cats, skeleton of Indian buried with head in cop- per kettle. For Essex County herbarium, inquire of officer in charge. General natural history collections, skeleton of gorilla, enormous Gallapagos island tortoises, buffalo, mounted horns and antlers, beautiful corals and a pair of Tridacna or giant clam shells weighing 300 pounds. Hall of Ethnology (enter at left, rear of Natural History Hall). Great Hawaiian idol, one of three still in existance, figure of Gilbert Island native dressed in cocoanut fibre armor, Fiji clubs and spears, rare New Zealand apd Marquesan ornaments. (In gallery) African fetish drum, weapons from Stanley's "Darkest Africa" expedition, reed canoe from Clear Lake, California, Brazilian feather hammock and ornaments, reduced human head from_ Ecuador. Weld Hall (enter at rear of Ethnology Hall). Largest Japanese ethnological collection in any museum, dressed figure of warrior, very large household shrine, saddles and stirrups. (In gallery) beautiful model of Taj Mehal, India, life-sized portrait-figures of India merchants, figurines and model of market place, India, Chi- nese flag captured by Commodore Armstrong on Canton river, 1854, set for opium smoking, carved ivory sphere containing twenty con- centric balls, figure of devil-killer, gorgeous Chinese costumes, palan- quin (1803) used by East India Marine Society in processions, Korean one-wheeled carrying chair, trumpets twelve feet long from Tibet. Town House Square, intersection of Essex and Washington streets. The first meeting-house, built in Salem in 1634, stood on the corner still occupied by its successor. About thirty feet west of the present church stood the old Town and Court House {sec tablet on church). Here Gov. Burnet convened the General Court in 1728 and 1729. A dinner was here given to Sir William Pepperrell by the town (1746). House of Assembly met here with closed doors and defied Gen. Gage (1774). Provincial Congress organized and first met here (1774). Site of the "Endecott and the Red Cross" episode MAP OF SALEM AND BRIEF ITlNERAFvY SEAL OF THE CITY OF SALEM. BRIEF ITINERARY (1634), and of the "Rill from the Old Town Pump." Houses of "Old Planter'.' John Woodbury (1626), and of Endicott, Roger Williams, Hugh Peter, and Francis Higginson, were nearby. See also page 173. City Hall, 93 Washington street, built in 1837-8. Portraits of interest and the original Indian deed of Salem. See also page 116. Site of Witchcraft Court House, in middle of Washington street. See tablet on Masonic Temple, 70 Washington street. See also page 118. St. Peter's Church (Episcopal), corner of St. Peter and Brown streets, built in 1833, succeeding another built in 1733. At the right of the main entrance is the gravestone of Jonathan Pue. See "Intro- duction" to the "Scarlet Letter." See also page 141. Birthplace of Nathaniel Bowditch, rear of 14 Brown street. Site of Witchcraft Jail, 4 Federal street. See also page 126. Court Houses, corner of Federal and Washington streets. The witchcraft records may be seen in the office of the clerk of courts, also the "witch pins." Enter between the iirst two court houses. Law library, many portraits, including Hunt's famous portrait of Chief-Justice Shaw. See also page 118. Assembly House (now a private residence), 138 Federal street, built in 1782. Lafayette dined here in 1784, and here Washington attended a ball in 1789. See also page 150. North Bridge, North street, scene of the retreat of the 64th Regt. of the Line, commanded by Lt.-Col. Leslie, Sunday, February 26, 1775. See also page 156. Witch House, corner of Essex and North streets. Rebuilt in 1674-5. In 1692 it was occupied by Judge Corwin, and here some of the preliminary witchcraft examinations are said to have taken place. See also page 164. North Church, 3145<2 Essex street, built in 1835. See also page 139. Plummer Hall, 339 Essex street, built in 1906, the home of the Salem Athenasimi, a proprietary library. See also page 113. BRIEF ITINERARY Public Library, 370 Essex street, formerly the residence of John Bertram, the eminent merchant and philanthropist ; 63,000 volumes. Open from 9 a. m. to 9 p. M. See also page 111. Giles Corey, who was pressed to death in 1692, lived on the site of 46 Boston street before he removed to what is now West Peabody. See also page 15. Gallows Hill, rear of Boston street, the scene of nineteen witch- craft executions in 1692. Chestnut Street. Many fine residences built after the War of 1812. Hamilton Hall, 9 Chestnut street, named in honor of Alexander Hamilton, built in 1805, and since then the centre of Salem's social activity. Pickering was entertained here in 1818, Bainbridge in 1813, and Lafayette in 1824. See also page 132. Pickering House, 18 Broad street, built in 1660. The birthplace of Timothy Pickering, 1745. See also page 158. Broad Street Burying Ground, opposite the Pickering house, laid out in 1655. Here lie buried Sheriff George Corwin, who executed "the witches," Col. Timothy Pickering, and Gen. Frederick W. Lander. See also page 165. Ruck House, 8 Mill street, built before 165_^1, Here John Adams, afterwards second President of the United States, was entertained on several occasions. John Singleton Copley, artist, and father of Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor of England, lived and painted here. See also page 160. Joshua Ward House, 150 Washington street. Washington passed the night in the northeast chamber in this house when on his presidential tour of the East in October, 1789. On this site lived Sheriff George Corwin, who, in 1692, at the age of twenty-six, executed the persons condemned for witchcraft. See also page 162. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. V Gray, William, 28 " Grimsliawe " porch, ......... 53 Hamilton, Alexander, ......... 74 Hathorne, Judge, gravestone, 1.5 Hawaiian idol, 99 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, portraits, 45 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, birthplace, 48 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, desk, 100 Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, 180 " House of the Seven Gables," 55 Hunt house, 58 Ingersoll, Horace, 59 Jacobs, George, witchcraft trial, 17 Melntire carvings, 42, 170 Mall Street house, 51 Market House and Market Square, 128 " Mayflower gravestone," 165 Narbonne house, showing lean-to roof 1.56 Nichols house, type of colonial architecture; paved yard, . , 158 Oliver, B. Lynde, .50 Peabody Museum, 83, 86, 98 Pepperrell, Sir William, 184 Peter, Hugh, 2 Pickering, Timothy, 185 Pickering house, 161 Pickman Place, 68 Porches, 39, 53, 82 Public Library, 112 VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Railroad Station, Frontispiece Eead-Prescott house, 7( Ropes Memorial, IK Ruck house, , 161 Salem Athenaeum, Plummer Hall 11? Seven Gables, House of the 5f Sewall, Stephen, . . , 15 Ship pictures, 21-30, 89, 9( Story, Joseph, .181 Town pump, ........... 61 Ward, John, house, 81 Ward, Miles, house, showing gambrel roof and porch, . . . 165 Washington Medallion, 17( Wheatland, Dr. Henry, ....,..., 7 Willows, The, 17( "Witch House," U r — ^ VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM FIFTY-FOURTH THOUSAND PUBLISHED BY THE ESSEX INSTITUTE SALEM, MASS. I916 ^74 Copyright by The Essex Institute igi6 Press of NEWCOMB S" GAUSS, Saltm, Masi. GENERAL INFORMATION Salem, shire town of Essex County, 16 miles northeast of Boston, is reached by the Boston & Maine R. R. (North Station), or electric cars from Scollay Square, Boston; settled in 1626; area 8.2 square miles; population 1765, 4,427: 1776, 5,337; 1800, 9,457; 1820, 12,731; 1850, 20,264; 1875, 25,958; 1900, 35,956, 1915, 36,826. Railroad Station (Boston & Maine system), on Washington street ; 80 trains daily. Street Car Office (Bay State System), Town House Square, two minutes walk from the railroad station. Electric cars and "jitney" busses run every fifteen minutes to and from nearly all parts of the city and to Marblehead, Lynn, Peabody, Danvers and Beverly; fare, five cents (ten cents to Lynn) ; transfer checks given without extra charge if request is made when the fare is paid. Automobiles and Carriages may be hired at the railroad station, but better service usually may be secured at various garages and livery stables. Drivers will point out places of interest. Carriage fare (1-4 persons) $1.00 per hour. The information furnished by boy guides found about the streets is usually very inaccurate. Hotels. New Essex House ($2.50-$3.00), Washington Hotel ($2.00), Hotel Lafayette (rooms). Restaurants may be found on Essex street and Washington street. There are several excellent boarding houses. Clubs. Salem Club (29 Washington Square, North), Colonial Club (118 Washington Street), Knights of Columbus (94 Washing- ton Square, East). Elks (17 North Street). Amusements. Empire Theatre (285 Essex Street), Salem Theatre (259>4 Essex Street), Federal Theatre (24 Federal Street), Plaza Theatre (273 Essex Street). Lectures and concerts at Academy Hall (157 Essex Street), and Ames Hall (288 Essex Street). See newspaper announcements. Band concerts are given during the summer at "The Willows," where there is also a summer theatre. Post Office, (118 Washington St.), open 6.45 A. M. to 10 P. M. viii GENERAL INFORMATION. Telegraph and Telephone Offices. Western Union Telegraph Office (83 Washington Street), Postal Telegraph Office (144 Wash- ington Street), Public Telephone Stations will be found in various drug stores, the hotels and the court houses. Churches. Unifanan. First Church (Essex corner Washington), Second Church (Washington Square), North Church (314 Essex Street) . Congregational. Tabernacle (Washington, corner Federal ) , South (Chestnut" corner Cambridge), Crombie Street (Crombie Street). Episcopal, St. Peter's (St. Peter corner Brown), Grace (381 Essex Street). Roman Catholic, Immaculate Conception (Walnut Street). St. James (150 Federal), St. Joseph's (French) (151 Lafayette), St. Anne (French) (Jefferson Ave., corner Story). St. John de Baptist (Polish) (30 St. Peter Street). Baptist, First Baptist (56 Federal), Calvary Baptist (Bridge corner Lemon). Universalist, First Universalist (Rust Street) . Methodist Episcopal. Lafayette Street (290 Lafayette Street), Wesley (10 North Street). Also Advejit Christian, (127>2 North Street). Jewish Synagogue, (Essex corner Herbert). First Church of Christ Scientist. (16 Lvnde St.) 'Newspapers. Salem Evening News (daily), established m 1880 : Salem Observer (weekly), established in 1823 : Le Courier de Salem * (weekly), established in 1901. Manufactures. The manufacturing industries are varied but principally confined to cotton, fine grades of leather, and shoes. In 1915 there were 178 different establishments employing 5,294 persons, with $9,824,000 invested capital and an annual production valued at $13,453,000. These figures reflect to a degree the effects of the disastrous conflagration of ''June 25, 1914. The principal industry is the Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company which since the fire has re- erected its buildings largely in concrete and now possess the finest and best equipped plant of its kind in the country. The company was incorporated in 1839 and makes the celebrated "Pequot" sheets and sheetings. It emplovs 1300 hands, consumes 25,000 bales of cotton and weaves over 20.000,000 yards of cloth per year, varying from 30 to 108 inches in width. This, if stretched out in one line would reach from Salem to San Francisco and across the Pacific ocean to Japan. CITY HALL BOSTON & MAINE RAILROAD STATION CONTENTS. Map and Short Itinerary, Preliniinary pages List of Illustrations, iv General Information, vii I. Historical Sketch, 1 II. Witchcraft Delusion, 11 III. Commerce of Salem, 21 IV. Salem Architecture, 32 V. Hawthorne, 44 VI. Museums and Libraries, 67 Essex Institute 67 Peabody Museum, . , 83 VII. Public Buildings, Halls, etc 114 VIII. Churches, 135 IX. Societies, Clubs, etc., 144 X. Historic Buildings, Sites, etc., 151 XI. Cemeteries 165 XII. Parks, Squares, etc., 169 XIII. Prominent Citizens and Visitors, 175 XIV. List of Portraits, 190 XV. Neighboring Places of Interest, 206 Index, 214 iii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Baker's Island; the Cliffs 171 Bentley, Rev. William, 1~6 Bowditch, Nathaniel, ITG Bradstreet, Governor, 6 Bradstreet, Governor, house, 71 Cabot house, showing gambrel roof, 162 C liurches : North; South; Second ; St. Peter's, .... 134 City Hall, Frontispiece Conant Statue, 1 Court Houses 121 Custom House, 124 Derby, Elias Hasket, 26 Derby wharf {Little), 8 Doorways and doorheads, 40, 42 East India Marine Hall, 83 Endecott, Governor, 2 Endicott, Judge, house, 162 English, Philip, house, 53 Essex Place, 67 Essex Institute and Kitchen in its Museum, 66 Essex Institute Seal, designed by Dr. George A. Perkins, Title page Fitch, Mrs. Timothy 74 Forrester, Mrs. Charlotte, 74 Gravestones, 15, 165, 167 iv CHAPTER I. T NANT STATUE Historical Sketch. HE Pilgrims of Plymouth are looked upon as very early pioneers of New England, but Roger Conant and his companions came to Cape Ann only three years, and to Salem only six years, after the landing at Plymouth. They brouglit with them the Sheffield patent which authorized the settling of the North Shore of Massachusetts Bay. The original document may be seen in the museum of the Essex Institute. The difference in time between its date, January 1st, 1623, and the arrival of Roger Conant at Naumkeag, now Salem, in. 1626, is ac- counted for by the fact that the little band of adven- turers first essayed, as Hubbard says, a settlement at Cape Ann. This they found a poor place for husbandry in summer and a bleak resi- dence for the winter fisheries, and soon moved on to the "pleasant and fruitful neck of land called Naumkeag." In a secluded cove beautifully situated and protected from the northerly and easterly winds by an elevated point of land projecting into North river, their houses of temporary construction were raised. This cove was sub- sequently known as Massey's and lies at the foot of what is now Skerry street. Dorchester Company. Meantime, in England, affairs were in a disturbed condition. The acts of the king were obnoxious to his subjects, and some of the rites and ceremonies of the established church were far from satisfactory to many of the people, both clergy and laymen. Emigration to the new land, though little known, seemed to offer a solution of the problem and some of the best peo- ple, including those of education and wealth, determined to brave (1) VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM Cldeeoll the stormy Atlantic and wring a livelihood by some means from the lands and \Yaters of distant New England. Accordingly the Dorchester company obtained a new char- ter, reserving privileges to the old Plant- ers, both material and political, and in 1628 sent over a colony of settlers, mider the leadership of Capt. John Endecott, who laid out streets and lots of land which he duly assigned to the new com- ers and also to the old Planters. What is now Washington street, from Essex street to the North river, was the principal thor- oughfare. The company's house at Cape Ann was taken down, brought to Salem and re-erected at what is now the southeastern corner of Washington and Federal streets, where it was occupied by Captain Endecott, and known as " the Governour's fayre house." Church. In July, 1629, came Rev. Francis Higginson and Rev. Samuel Skelton, respectively teacher and pastor of the church which was organized upon their arrival, it being the first Congregational societv formed in America. A meeting house was erected soon after upon the northwestern corner of the lot that had been granted to William Lord, and the site ever since that time has been occupied by the meeting-house of the First Church. This church was inde- pendent of all other religious affiliations, having its powers and authoritv entirely within itself. Roger Williams. In 1633. Rev. Roger Williams, a young man from England, who had been with the Pilgrims at Plymouth awhile, became pastor of the church. Two years later, because of his unrelenting prac- tice of teaching that the civil magistrates should have no authoritv over the conscience i^^'-"^ hi oh vh i fr HISTORICAL SKETCH O of the people; that they had no power to punish for heresy; that every one should be free to choose such form of religious worship as he pleased, and not be compelled to support any other, — because of these teachings and also because of his free criticism of the acts of the government, he was banished from the colony by the magistrates at Boston, although supported by the Salem church. He fled in the cold and deep snow of winter into the pathless wilderness, and after months of wandering and of suffering made a settlement which sub- sequently became the Providence Plantations, and is now the state of Rhode Island. Hugh Peter. In 1637, the Rev. Hugh Peter became pastor. He was a non-conforming clergyman of England who had gone to Hol- land and had been for several years pastor of an independent church at Rotterdam. Becoming greatly interested in the promotion of busi- ness in the colony, especially in commerce, in 1641, with the consent of the church, he went to England to further the accomplishment of his desires. There he became hiterested in Cromwell's political revo- lution, and was appointed a chaplain in the popular army. He never returned to America, and upon the restoration in 1660 he was charged with being accessory to the king's death, principally by sug- gestions contained in sermons which he preached to the army. He was condemned and hanged at Charing Cross, and his body was dis- emboweled, quartered and exhibited in the four principal cities of the kuigdom, and the head was raised upon a pole on London Bridge. Fishing Industry. It was under the impulse given to commerce by Hugh Peter's agitation that vessels began to be built in Salem, and the fishing business was established at Winter Island. The island and neighboring shores of the Neck were laid out into half-acre lots, which were granted by the town to various persons. Many ware- houses were built near the water and a street M-as laid out over the island and appropriately named Fish street. Upon the Neck, houses of entertainment and refreshment were established and remained for many years. In those very early days the Neck was the busy part of the town. Religion. The stern religion of the Puritans of Salem, marked 4 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM them with a peculiar and almost unnatural bigotry, when it is re- membered that thev left the church of England for the sake of spirit- ual freedom. Roger 'Williams strenuously endeavored to separate church and state and met with slight success. His successors were content to allow the civil magistrates control in religious affairs. So strongly had the tenets of the Congregationalists become fastened in the minds of the people that no one could vote or hold public ofl&ce unless he became a positive adherent of that particular church. The Episcopalians and others who believed differently from the author- ities were allowed no privileges or suflFrage. Quakers. When the missionaries of the Quakers came to Massa- chusetts preaching the gospel of love and equality, thev were received with execrations. Laws were immediatelv passed and attempts made to suppress the religion of the Friends, as the Quakers were called. Fines and imprisonment unavailed ; then ears, first one and then the other for a second offence, were cut off ; then chaining in open prison yards in the severe New England winter, almost without food was resorted to ; then the death-dealing scourge ; boring of the tongue with hot irons ; and finally banishment and death bv hanging. — all failed to exterminate or even to diminish the number of adherents to the faith of this peculiar people in the colony. In Salem, ears were cut off and several persons were banished, among whom were Law- rence Southwick and his wife, who sailed away from the colony in a small boat to Shelter Island where the exposure and privations of winter soon brought them to forgotten graves. Another of those ban- ished from Salem was Samuel Shattuck. but he turned his course di- rectly to England and immediately sought audience with the King and obtained a manifesto, addressed to Governor Endecott. which prohibited the inhuman treatment of the Quakers in this colony. The Indians found living here by the first settlers were always friendly and probablv the settlement had no thought of savage depre- dations. But when King Philip rose in 1675. no town Avas wholly free from apprehension. The General Court ordered the immediate cutting of the brush from the sides of highways and the building of fortifications. In Salem, long defences constructed of palisade and HISTORICAL SKETCH 5 Stone at the western end of Essex street, from North river to the mill pond, cut off all approach by land from the surrounding country to the principal part of the settlement. The brave Capt. Thomas Lath- rop with his companv of seventy men, popularly called "The Flower of Essex," marched from Salem to death in Indian ambush at Bloody Brook, in Deerfield. Fighting Joe Gardner commanding another company, left his house where the museum building of the Essex Institute now stands on Essex street, and found death at the hands of the savages in the great fight in the Narrangansetf swamp. Witchcraft. Salem will be forever associated with the witch- craft delusion of 1692. If Salem did her part in persecuting the vic- tims of this frenzy, and she probably did no more than her part, it is fair to say that it was Salem, also, that furnished many martyrs, who declined to save themselves, through compromise or equivocation. It was not Salem, but the times, that were at fault, and at last, in May 1693, a general gaol deliverv occurred, and the madness of the year before, bringing violent and disgraceful death to twenty of our un- offending neighbors, mostly women, never from that day forward gathered head again. ( si\' chaffer on Witchcrait Delusion, fh. 11). Endecott and Bradstreet. Salem was the residence not only of Gov. John Endecott, but of Gov. Simon Bradstreet in his old age. They happened to be the first and the last in the line of colonial governors. Their portraits are at the City Hall and at the Essex Institute. John Endecott came here as governor in September, 1628,. under the authority of a charter in duplicate one of which is pre- served in the Salem Athenaeum. A south of England man. of au- stere type and solemn mien, he filled the chair at various dates, for sixteen years in all. Simon Bradstreet, the nestor governor of Mass- achusetts, came to Salem with Winthrop in June, 1630. He outlived the whole Winthrop party, and died here in March, 1697, aged nine- ty-four, and was buried under a monument erected by the Province in the Charter street cemetery. He filled all the leading offices. He was twice governor, first from 1679 to 1686. when the charter was annulled, and again from 1689 to 1692, at the beginning of which term, when eighty-six years of age. he put himself at the head of a VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM _gTadstTeer. Revolutionary War. Revolutionary movement which impris- oned Andros. in the castle, and three years later transferred his authority to Sir Wil- liam Phips, governor under the charter granted by William III, to the Province. Bradstreet then became, at the patriarchal age of eighty-nine, the first assistant to the new governor. Such men as these have al- ways been found in Salem, where educa- tion, strong principles and great interests have ever been maintained with courage and persistence. On Oct. 5, 1774, a Provincial Congress convened in the town house and initiated the political revolution that "terminated forever the actual exercise of the political power of England in and over this territory." At the North Bridge in Salem, British aggressions were arrested and British arrogance curbed two months before Lexington and Concord earned their immortal fame. The prominence of Salem throughout the struggle for the independ- ence of the American colonies is well known. Besides the great mmiber of officers and soldiers that she furnished to the army, one hundred and fifty-eight vessels were fitted out as privateers and be- came the larger part of the American navy. These privateers cap- tured 445 prizes, more than the privateers of all other ports com- bined.* Commerce. Following the independence of the colonies. Salem merchants utilized the vessels they had built for the privateering ser- vice by entering into commercial relations with distant eastern re- gions never before visited by traders. Thus the Revolutionary War was an indirect cause of the commercial supremacy of Salem, for it put a sudden stop to all maritime enterprise and drove our whole mercantile marine into privateering. The result of this was that at the close of the war our men of substance found themselves in possession of an idle fleet, considerable in number, and made up of ships of * In the "^ar of 1812, of the 250 armed vessels furnished by the whole country, forty were from Salem. HISTORICAL SKETCH i much larger tonnage than before, that could outsail almost anything afloat. These ships were commanded by members of their own fam- ilies, and manned bv their own neighbors, native-bom seamen of a ven- hic-h class, and as well-drilled and able as could be foimd in any navy of the world. This fleet — capital and men — must be em- ployed and the merchants, all of them graduates of the cabin-^many of them graduates of the forecastle, — before they took their places in the counting-room, at once struck out new channels for trade and mapped out new ventures in unknown seas, where their enterprise, energy-, courage and skill gave them precedence for a time over those of all other American ports. Their hand-made charts of unexplored coasts were used for vears bv those who followed in their wake, and even, in the case of the first expedition to Japan, by the na\-y of the United States. The end of this golden era came when the railroads began to build up the great ports at the expense of the less, trans- porting buyers to the larger markets, where they found a greater variety of commodities from which to choose, and a livelier competi- tion to keep prices down, and also driving sellers to resort to the larger markets, because there they found buyers in greater numbers. The shallow harbor also could not accommodate the larger shipping which commerce demanded. Time was when Salem counting-rooms were frequented bv merchants from cities south of Philadelphia in search of certain imported articles for which this port once had the best market in the country. Houses. If the visitor strolls through the short streets running from Derby street, at the east of the town, he will not fail to be struck as forcibly as at Portsmouth. N. H.. or at Newport. R. I., with the st}-le of the wooden houses built long before the Revolution bv the old skippers, who had made their way up from forecastle to quarter- deck in schooners trading with the West Indies. Thev had navigat- ed the Mediterranean and Spanish and English waters, and had come home to enjov life after seeing all that was worth looking at in the old-world capitals beyond the seas. The houses thev built, the gardens with which thev made them bright and cheerv. the choice furniture and rare decorations with which thev filled their homes. VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM are at once monu- ments to the enter- prise, high spirit and intelligence of a wonderful race of men now practi- cally extinct, no less than to the commercial pre- eminence of the past of Salem. Shipping. In decades past Salem wharves were lined with ships which Salem merchants had built and OLD DERBY WHARF manned and sent Philip Little Essex Institute Picture Gallery- Iq CVCrv market of the world. They were piled high with the rich products of every civilized and barbaric land. There were Eastern ports where the names of New York. Philadelphia and Baltimore were scarcely known, but where Salem, of such small stature among her sister cities, was supposed to be the great commercial emporium of the West. In 1825, there were one hundred and ninety-eight vessels fly- ing Salem signals, and Salem ships were the first to display the American flag in many foreign ports, and to open trade with St. Pe- tersburg, Zanzibar, Sumatra, Calcutta, Bombay, Batavia, Arabia, Madagascar and Australia. No one makes a living here now by bringing gimi-copal, or silks, or ivory, or spices, or dates, or coffee, from the Orient, and the merchant no longer waits in his counting- room, spy-glass in hand to see his ships come up the bay. The for- eign commerce of Salem, years ago, spread its white wings and sailed awav forever. It is as much a thing of the past as is the French and Indian war or the witchcraft frenzy. Hawthorne intimated a pur- HISTORICAL SKETCH ^ pose of -ftTiting the romance of it. but left the promise unfuLtilled. and no successor has attempted it. The only monuments of that half -century of maritime success, besides the marine collections at the Peabody Museum, are the stately houses found scattered about the city, erected for merchants who had prospered in their ventures upon the sea. In the govenmaent of the nation in its earlv vears. manv of the cabinet oflficers and members of the senate and house of representa- tives were Salem men. Salem's unique stand in the war with Eng- land in 1812-1815 : the creditable part she bore in the war of the Re- bellion : and her well-earned eminence as a scientific and educational center, are matters of general knowledge. Hawthorne. The birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne is a shrine at which pilgrims ceaselessly come to worship, and the devotee of gen- ius must turn his steps to Union street if he would view the plain wooden house which was so unconscious of its coining importance when, on July 4. 1804. the romancer's birth took place there. The enthusiast, zealous enough to seek the house where Hawthorne first drew breath, needs but little information about the man and his work. The Salem custom house is the same decorous place of business it was A\hen Hawthorne made entries and stencilled packages and sketched romances there. The sur\-eyor's old pine desk, on the lid of which with his thumb nail he scratched his name, is now at the Institute. The house where he is said to have obtained the suggestion of the title of his book. "The House of the Seven Gables," is at the foot of Turner street. The '"Grimshawe house" has an original \ recently much altered) in Charter street, next the burial ground, this being the house where the romancer wooed and won his bride. In a conversation reported by Mrs. Rose Lathrop. Dr. Holmes said : 'T not long ago was visiting the custom house at Salem, the place in which your father discovered those m\"Sterious records that unfolded into 'The Scarlet Letter.' Ah! how suddenlv and easily genius ren- ders the spot rare and full of a great and new virtue ( however ordi- nary and bare in reality) where it has looked and dwelt ! A light falls upon the place not of sea or land ! How much he did for Salem 1 Oh. 10 visitor's guide to SALEM the purple light, the soft haze, that now rests upon our glaring New England ! He has done it, and it will never be harsh country again. How perfectly he understood Salem! Strange folk! It is the most* delightful place to visit for this reason, because it so carefully retains the spirit of the past. And their very surroundings bear them out," Dr. Holmes cried. "Where else are the little dooryards that hold their glint of sunlight so tenaciously, like the still light of wine in a glass? Year after year it is ever there!" {see chapter on Nathaniel Hawthorne fl. 44) . The Great Fire began in the early afternoon of June 25, 1914 as the result of an explosion of chemicals in a leather manufactory lo- cated in "Blubber Hollow," Boston street. The flames were not un- der control until thirteen hours later, when about 1800 buildings, about 1600 of which were dwelling houses, and 41 factories, had been destroyed, covering an area of about 251^^2 acres. It was estimated that nearly 15,000 persons were made homeless, while the property loss amounted to nearly $14,000,000. Fortunately but three lives v/ere lost. While the conflagration spread over a large area, due to a prevailing high wind, to roofs covered with wooden shingles, dry as tinder, which quickly caught fire from the flying brands, and to low pressure in the water supply at critical moments, yet the pathway of the flames mainly was through the manufacturing and more recent residential portions of the city so that nothing of historic or early- architectural interest was destroyed, Salem of Today. The feature of the Salem of today which ar- rests the stranger's attention next after her wonderfully fine old-time domestic architecture, is her two museums and her three libraries. CHAPTER II. THE WITCHCRAFT DELUSION. THE origin of the Witchcraft Delusion of 1692 is found in the belief in witchcraft that was universally held by the people of that time. A witch or wizard was a person who was regarded as having made a formal compact with the devil whereby the former should become the faithful subject of the latter and in return be given supernatural powers of a diabolical nature. The Bible contains •the command, "Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live;" and this in- junction, literally interpreted, brought about the terrible results of Salem witchcraft. The rich and the poor, the learned and the ig- norant, ministers and judges, accounted for many things that they could not understand by ascribing them to witchcraft. Prior to 1692, executions for this crime had occurred in England and in Boston, New England. The Salem quarterly court was not a stranger to such trials, several persons having been complained of, presented and tried therein for the practice of witchcraft at different times during the preceeding half-century. Thousands had been con- victed therefor and executed in the old world, many of whom were burned, but none were ever executed in that way in New England. Salem Village. The awful tragedies of 1692 did not originate in what is now the city of Salem, but in Salem Village (now Dan- vers), then a part of Salem, some seven miles from Town House square, in the house and familv of the pastor of the Village church. The meeting-house stood on the southern side of Hobart street, about seven hundred feet northeast of the present meeting-house, and the parsonage was in the field some three hundred feet from Centre street, near Forest street, on the other side of the Meeting House lane, as the road on which the first meeting-house stood was early (11) 12 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM called. The minister was Rev, Samuel Parris, formerly a merchant in the West Indies, whence he had brought three slaves. One of them was a native Indian woman named Tituba, who was thoroughly im- bued Math the superstition of her former home. The Accusing Children. Children love to hear of the mysteri- ous, and doubtless many weird tales were poured into the eager ears of Elizabeth, the nine-year-old daughter of Mr. Parris, and her mates, who were already prepared for their reception by similar stories V>y Olr*€* J r^ of New England origin. It is evi- *' ^ / ^S^^irT^ dent that sorcery was among the ac- complishments of Tituba, and the effect of her companionship was soon apparent in the actions of the children of the neighborhood. Besides Elizabeth Parris, her cousin, Abigail Williams, aged eleven Ann Putnam, twelve, Marv Walcott, Mercy Lewis, and Elizabeth Hubbard, seventeen, and Eliza- beth Booth, Susanna Sheldon, Mary Warren and Sarah Chur- chill, two of the latter being servants, were concerned. These girls, in the winter of 1691-2, met at the parsonage, and whiled away the evenings by practising palmistry and magic. The lirst three named soon per- formed the little tricks more openly. They crept into holes and under chairs, placed them- selves in odd postures, uttered loud outcries, and used ridicu- lous, incoherent and unintelli- gible expressions. The atten- tion of Mr. Parris was drawn MAJOR STEPHEN SEWALL to these uucommon proceedings Clerk of the Witchcraft Court, and he was dismayed. The Essex Institute Picture Gallery. WITCHCRAFT DKLUSION 13 Village physician, Dr. Griggs, was summoned, and he promptly pronomiced the children bewitched. The remedy sought by the par- ents of the girls was not, as it should have been, the rod, but fasting and prayer. Parson Parris and the neighboring ministers thus un- successfully endeavored to ward oflf the evil influence. Then resort was had to other means. Who bewitched the girls? They were be- sought to tell, and finally cried out, "Good," "Osburn," "Tituba." Thus began the damning accusations that were so potent in all the subsequent history of the delusion. One witch was the most that was naturally expected in a small community like that of Salem Vil- lage. Behold! three of these tools of Satan operating in the best families, even in that of the minister. Excitement, followed by ter- ror, prevailed. Bolts and bars were ineffectual against these emis- saries of supernatural power. The Accused. Feb. 29, 1691-2, warrants were duly issued igainst Sarah Good, Sarah Osburn, and Tituba, upon the complaint )f four men of influence and character. Sarah Good was a married woman, who lived apart from her husband, and by begging obtained 1 precarious support for herself and children. No one cared for her and few manifested any pity for her poverty and forlorn condition. 5arah Osburn had an unbalanced mind, and had become bed-ridden. -Ihe found as little sympathy among her neighbors as Sarah (xood. Fhe arrests were made, and on March 1; Jonathan Corwin and John Hathorne, two magistrates from Salem, came to the Village to ex- miine the prisoners. The "Witch House". Judge Corwin lived in what is now cnown as the "Witch House," at the western corner of North and Essex streets, and Colonel Hathorne on Washington street, where :he Holyoke Building, numbered 114, now stands. The Examination. With pomp .and display of ofticial power, :hey appeared at the meeting house, where a great number of people tvere gathered to witness the novel scene. Each of the accused was subjected to an examination by the magistrates based upon a fore- gone conviction of the prisoner's guilt. The accusing children were present during the hearing and frequently went into convulsions. 14 visitor's guide to SALEM 'WITCH HOUSE," CORNER NORTH AND ESSEX STS. From a photograph made in 1856. which they attri- buted to one or other of the prison- ers. The husband of vSarah Good was present and shame- lessly testified against her. Sarah Osburn, frail in body and weak in mind, was next brought in and ex- amined. T i t u b a came last. She showed a lively imagination and was very clever, confessing enough to implicate others. She said that the devil variously appeared to her as a hog, a black dog, a yellow bird, a black girl ; and that the witch- es rode on sticks through the air, and immediately arrived wherever they chose to go. Neither time, distance nor matter hindered them. Sarah Good. Sarah Good was confined in the jail at Boston, in- dicted and tried in Salem in the last of June, and executed by hanging in Salem. July 19. Sarah Osburn was confined at first in the Ipswich jail and died in Boston iail while awaiting trial, in May, being too feeble to with- stand the privations of prison life. She probably lacked the merest necessaries of life even in her confinement, as prisoners were then required to be supported by themselves or their families. Tituba was never tried and after lying in jail thirteen months, was sold to pay her prison fees. Tituba had declared in her examination that there were two other witches whom she did not know and Parson Parris immediately and WITCHCRAFT DELUSION 15 untiringly sought their discovery. Accusers were brazen and mali- cious autocrats, allowing their spite and prejudice to prey upon whomsoever they would. x- / r Giles Corey. The unpopular octogenarian, Giles Corev, who lived on a spot near the present railroad station at West Peabody was greatly interested in the examinations, but his wife Martha did not wish him to attend them and objected to his going She was soon accused of witchcraft and her husband appeared against her bhe was tried and condemned, being executed bv hanging September 22. After the trial the old man realized the grievous wrong he had done and did not escape the terrible charge himself, being arrested, and ex- amined April 19. When arraigned, he stood mute, refusing to plead. For two days friends vainly expostulated with him. Except he pleaded in answer to the charge against him, he could not be tried under the law that was then in force; and as provided in that law* he was subjected to compulsion which was no less than the placing of heavy weights upon his prostrate body until he an- swered—or died. This awful punishment was inflicted on Giles Corey at Salem, September 19, three days before his wife was hanged, and he endured his terrible agonv till" death brought relief. This event has no parallel in American history. Some think that he thus, purposely, expiated the wrong done to his worthy wife. GRAVESTONE OF JUDGE HATHORNE !N CHARTER ST. CEMETERY The law wa.s that the prisoner "be remanded to the prison from whence he came and put into a low. dark chamber, and there be laid on his back on the bare floor, naked, unless when decencv forbids: that there be placed upon his body as great a weight of iron as he could bear, and more that he hath no sustenance, save only on the first dav. three morsels of the worst bread, and on the second day three draughts of standing water, that should be nearest to the prison door, and in this situation this should be alternately his daily diet till he died, or — as anciently the .iudgmertt ran — till he an- swered." Chittv's Blackstone. IV., 265. 15 visitor's guide to SALEM Rebecca Nurse. Who was the fourth woman whom Tituba said i^f^lA^ -•> ^ V* executions occurred, and eight per- sons were hanged, Rev. Nicholas Noyes, pastor of the Salem church, was present. Turning toward the bodies of the victims, he said, "What a sad thing it is to see eight fire-brands of hell hanging there." 90 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM filled and the old road obliterated';^ n^etu ren'^l^ "^ t t s'^^ condition as when in that dreadful summer of 1609 tl were awfully and unjust! v deprived Tiff e ' "'"'''' P"^"" .V J I^eaction. Throughout the sessions of the court the trials were conducted m accordance with English law. As the summer ad red'aL'brouriVt: '^'^'rV'"'^'^'''' ^^^ respectabilirwere t cused and brought to trial. Knowmg Avho these people' were the court became more strict in the matter of proof and ''spectral' evi dence" was refused admission. For want of Igitimate evWeTce con- victions ceased, but not before the wife of Governor Phins and ?hp wife of the Rev. Mr. Hale of Beverly, who had urged oAe pros utions, had^ been accused. In May, 1693, Governor Phips ordered the release from jail of all persons accused of witchcraff whether under sentence or not, and hundreds returned to their homes Tha ^:^^^ ''-' '-'-' '--''-' --^--^^ ^-- ^'- ^^'^ If there be any gleam of sunlight breakini; through the aloom it •nay be found in tins, that the executions a."sale,n gave he .teede ;eth'7" " '™"'"'l'' ''"' P"' ^" '""»*'•"« and'eft-ectual „d to Ine whole inhuman work. CHAPTER III, THE COMMERCE OF SALEM. Fishing Industry. I'he maritime advantages of the situation of Salem and the enterprise and self-reliance of her inhabitants created that commercial activity of the town which ended only with the com- ing of the railroad and the building up of the great ports at the ex- pense of the less. The first settlers at Salem were sea-faring men, having been engaged in fishing at Cape Ann for three years. ' They were soon followed by others w^ho shortly engaged in trade with Eng- land and the West Indies. At the beginning of Endecott's govern- ment here he was directed by the home company to send to England as return cargoes, "staves, sarsaparilla, sumack, sturgeon and other fish and beaver." The waters of the harbor and rivers contained immense quantities of fish and for more than a century they were the staple export, Winter island being the headquarters of the fish trade. Even as late as the 19th century, salmon swam the North river in such numbers that they constituted the main article of animal food of the dwellers on its banks and the indentures of appren- tices contained a clause providing that they should not be compelled to eat salmon more than three times each week. Trade with West Indies. About 1640, vessels were sailing to (21) EARLY 18th CENTURY KETCH 22 visitor's guide to salem Antigua and Barbadoes, some of the Leeward Islands and the large islands of the West Indies, the Bermudas, Virgina and England, and in 1644, Josselyn wrote that in Salem there "are many rich mer- chants." Within the next twenty-five years, trade was extended to Spain. France and Holland. The great majority of vessels then en- gaged in commerce from Salem were ketches, measuring from twenty to fortv tons burthen, and manned by four, five or six men each. In 1689. Salem had on the water, one ship of eighty tons and another of two hundred, one bark, three sloops, and twenty ketches. Commerce in 1700. Higginson wrote of the trade here in 1700 as follows: "Dry, merchantable codfish for the markets of Spain, Portugal and the Straights, refuse fish, lumber, horses and provisions for the West Indies. Returns made directly to England are sugar, molasses, cotton, wool, logwood, and Brasiletto-wood, for which we depend on the West Indies. Our own produce, a considerable quantity of whale and fish-oil, Avhalebone, furs, deer, elk and bear- skins are annually sent to England. We have much shipping here and rates are low." Commerce was continued in similar lines to the beginning of the Revolution. With the exception of Boston, Salem, Beverly and Marblehead, were the principal commercial ports of the Province, having most of the shipping. Revolutionary War. At the outbreak of the Revolutionary War the colonists found themselves at issue with the most powerful maritime nation of the world. Boston and New York were occupied by the enemy, and the success of the Americans Avas early believed to lie in the hands of the patriotic merchants of Salem bay. They soon recognized the exigency of the times and turned their vessels into privateers. Not only did they use the vessels already built, but the merchants had larger and better ones constructed, equipped and manned for this very service. During the war more than 158 vessels were thus sent out from Salem, They carried upward of 2000 guns and were manned by several thousand seamen. They took 44 5 prizes. The Far East. Upon the return of peace, the merchants found themselves possessed of many swift-sailing vessels larger than any they had used prior to the Revolution. They were too large to be THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 23 ^: MimMTafMLM ^ SHIP "PRUDENT," BUILT IN 1799. profitably employed in domestic, commerce or in short voyages to European or West India ports, therefore the owners determined to send their vessels to new and more distant comitries, and to open trade with their peoples. Many hundred seamen were idle, most of them young and full of daring, and soon the snow-white sails of the merchant-ships of Salem were to be seen in every water of the then known world and Salem became famous in the uttermost parts, its name becoming as widely known as that of America. Adventures. Many of these voyages were not less exciting and dangerous than the experiences of the privateers in the Revolution. The history of the period is crowded with incidents of daring and ad- 24 visitor's guide to salem venture in unknown seas and in ports never before visited by Ameri- cans ; of encounters with pirates and tribes of cruel and treacherous savages ; of contests with armed ships of France and England ; and of imprisonment among the Algerines and in the dungeons of France and vSpain. Navigation. It has already been said that the seamen were young. When the first vessel to the East Indies set sail from Salem, neither the captain nor his mates were out of their teens ; yet, with imperfect mathematical instruments, and without charts, except of their own making, they carried through coral reefs and along strange shores, ship and cargo safely to their destination. The importance of the position of these boys did not alone lie in the navigation of the vessel. They had the selling of the outward cargo and the purchase of another to bring home witn tliem. The wdiole financial success of the voyage depended upon them, as there was no communication with the owners during the year and a half covered by the voyage, and no news of them received at home until they came sailing' back again. The telegraphic cable long ago destroyed the romantic interest which the mystery of silence wove around these voyages. Derby Street. Derby street, the great commercial thoroughfare of the town, was filled with the bustle of business. Vessels crowded at the wharves, having their cargoes of silk from India, tea from China, pepper from Sumatra, coffee from Arabia, spices from Ba- tavia, gum-copal from Zanzibar, and hides from Africa, removed to the warehouses, while others were being laden with American goods for the foreign trade. At every lounging place on every street cor- ner, and about the doors of the numerous sailor boarding houses were seamen fresh from Eastern countries, and others about to sail thither, having all the peculiarities of the true rover of the seas. The shops and stores were full of strange and unique articles, brought from distant lands. Parrots screamed and monkeys and other small ani- mals from foreign forests gamboled at will in the back shops. Sug- gestions of foreign lands met the vision at every turn. Many of the curiosities and oriental objects now preserved in the Peabody Museum were brought home on these voyages. The ship "America," Capt. THE COIMMERCK SALE^r 25 SHIP "MARGARET," BUILT IN 1800. Jacob Crowninshield of Salem, master and owner, brought home from Bengal, in 1796, the first elephant that was ever seen in the United States. Salem, for many years, was one of the principal ports for the distribution of foreign merchandise. In the year 1800, more than eight million pounds of sugar were imported and sold to traders from various sections of the country. The streets were alive with teams loaded with goods. Draft wagons and drays, came from long dis- tances, sometimes more than a hundred miles, for all merchandise had to be transported overland in this arduous and tedious manner. In the taverns, teamsters from many parts of northwestern New Eng- land were ever to be found discussing politics or current news, or be- coming cheerful over frequent potations of New England rum, which was then manufactured in Salem in great quantities. 26 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM SHIP "GRAND TURK," BUILT IN 178L Cape of Good Hope. The Cape of Good Hope trade Avas also opened in 1784 and the first ■\-oyage was made in the "Grand Turk," a fast-sailing ?hip of three hundred tons, built for Elias Hasket Derby, in 1781. as a privateer, carrying twenty- Uyo guns. In 1784, Mr. Derby dispatched this vessel, under command of Capt. Jonathan In- gersoll, on the iirst voyage from Salem to the Cape, the exporta- tion being New England rum. and the return cargo Granada riim. China. The next year (1785) Mr. Derby opened the trade with China by sending to Canton the "Grand Turk," which was then commanded bv Russia. The first new trade opened after the Revo- lution, was with Russia. In 1784, the bark "Light Horse," commanded by Capt. Buffing- ton, opened the American trade at St. Petersburg. The trade with that country became extensive, but greatly declined after the embargo in 1808. The last entry in Salem of a cargo from Archangel was in 1820; from Cronstadt. in 1836; and from St. Petersburg, in 1843. ELIAS HASKET DERBY By Frothingham. Peabody Museum. THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 27 SHIP "BELISAKIUS," BUILT IN 1794. Capt. Ebenezer West. He there competed with the European syndi- cates of merchants for the native trade. The ship "Grand Turk" Avas also the first New England vessel to open trade with the Dutch of the Isle of France. This was in 1787. Sugar was the principal article of Dutcii exportation. In 1794, the ship "Aurora" brought from there a cargo of 424,034 pounds of sugar, it being consigned to William Gray. East Indies. The East India trade was also opened by Mr. Derby, in 1788, by the ship "Atlantic," which was commanded by his son. This was the first vessel to display the American ensign at Bombay and Calcutta. The next year, he imported the first cargo of Bombay cotton brought to this country. In 1798, the ship "Belisarius" brought a cargo of sugar and coffee from Calcutta and the Isle of 28 visitor's guide to SALEM France. In 1803, the ship "Lucia" brought from Calcutta, a cargo cf sugar, indigo and cheroots, jju which the duty was $24,001.08. In 1805, the ship "Argo" brought a cargo of sugar, from the same port, on which the duty was $32,799.47. In 1812, a duty of $51,526.33 was paid on the cargo of the "Restitution," from Calcutta. The Calcutta trade was afterwards carried on principally by Joseph Peabody, in the famous ship "George," which made twenty-one voyages to Cal- cutta, the sum of $651,743.32 duties being paid on her cargoes. Java and Japan. The iirst American vessel to open trade with Batavia was the Salem brig "Sally," Benjamin Webb, master, in 1796, who brought home pepper and sugar. The ship "Margaret," Samuel Derby, master, was the first (1802) Salem vessel, and third American vessel to visit Japan; and the ship "Franklin" of Boston, commanded by Capt. James Devereux of Salem, was the first Ameri- can vessel to trade with Japan,, though commercial intercourse was not opened between the two countries until half a century later. Pepper Trade. Salem mer- chants sent the first vessel that ever sailed direct from this country to Sumatra, and the first to bring a cargo of pepper from that island. This trade originated in the discovery in 1793, by Capt. Jonathan Carnes that pepper grew wild on the northwestern coast of Sumatra. He sailed for Jona- than Peele, who at once built the schooner "Rajah" and sent Capt. Carnes to Sumatra for a cargo of pepper. For the pur- wiLLiAM GRAY posc of trade, he took a cargo After Stuart. Peabody Museum. THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 29 of brandy, gin, iron, tobacco and salmon, and in 1796, brought back the first cargo of pepper to be imported into this country in bulk. The cargo sold at seven hundred per cent, profit. The merchants vv-ere greatly excited over Mr. Peele's success, and endeavored to learn where the pepper had been obtained, but it was kept a secret for several years. The ship "Eliza." James Cook, master, brought ftom Sumatra, a cargo of 1,012,148 pounds of pepper, on Avhich a duty of $66,903.90 was paid. At one time the trade with Sumatra was almost entirely carried on by Salem merchants, and a large pro- portion of the pepper consumed was obtained at. and through the port of Salem, which was the distributing point for that article to all countries. Cargoes of pepper were regularly brought to Salem from Sumatra until 1846. Salem vessels were at Sumatra for the last time in 1860 and the last American vessel that visited that coast was commanded by a Salem captain. This was in 1867. Manila. The Manila tracle was opened in 1796. The ship "Astrea." Henry Prince, master, returned to Salem that year with a cargo of 75,000 pounds of sugar, 63,695 pounds of pepper and 29,- 767 pounds of indigo, the import duty being $24,020. The ship "St. Paul" was almost as famous in the Manila trade as was the ship "deorge" in the Calcutta trade. The last entry in Salem from Mani- la was the bark "Dragon" in 1858, with a cargo of hemp. Mocha. The Mocha trade was opened in 1798 by the ship "Re- covery," Joseph Ropes, master, vrhich was the first American vessel to displav the stars and stripes in that part of the world. The ship "Franklin." in 1808, brought from there a cargo of 532,365 pounds of coffee, consigned to Joseph Peabodv, on which was paid a duty of $26,618.25. The Embargo. Trade with all those distant shores was firmly established and at its height, when, in 1808, the embargo was placed upon our seaports. The whole trade was thus suddenly stopped, in some instances never to be reopened ; and in all its branches to be pursued with less vigor and in a less degree. The trade in wine and brandy with Spain and Portugal, which had continued for a century, was wholly stopped by the embargo, the last entry being in 1809 30 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM SHIP "ST. PAUL," BUILT IN 1833. from Bilboa. Of the trade with other European ports, the last entry from Bordeaux occurred in 1815, from Copenhagen in 1816, from Amsterdam in 1823, from Hamburg in 1828, from Rotterdam in 1834, froni Antwerp m 1836, from Gottenburg in 1837, from Mar- seilles in 1833, from Messina in 1831 and from Leghorn in 1841. Fiji Islands. The Fiji Islands trade was first opened in 1811, by the bark "Active," Capt. William P. Richardson, and was continued until 1854, when the bark "Dragon" brought from there a cargo of 1 170 bales of hemp. The first American vessel to trade at Madagascar was the Salem brig "Beulah," Charles Forbes, master, in 1820. In 1827, Salem merchants extended this trade to Zanzibar. Gum-copal was its staple article of export. The last cargo to arrive at vSalem from Zanzibar, THE COMMERCE OF SALEM 31 was entered in 1870. The Australian trade was commenced in 1832, by the Salem ship "Tybee," Charles Millet, master, at Sydney. She was the first American vessel to enter Australian ports. The trade came to an end in 1837. Considerable trade was carried on with Nova Scotia from about 1840 to 1857, and for nearly ten years fol- lowing 1837, Salem was engaged in the whale fisheries. Commercial Decline. Among the places early traded with by the colonists, the last entry from the West Indies was from Havana in 1854, and the last from the Rio Grande was in 1870, The South American trade, which also began early, finally ended in 1877. The last entry from Para occurred in 1861, the cargo consisting of rub- ber, hides, cocoa, coffee and castana nuts. The trade with Montevido, in hides and horns, which began in 1811, also ended in 1861. The sugar trade with Pernambuco ended in 1841. Trade on the west coast of Africa, which began soon after the close of the Revolution by conveying thither New England rum, gun-powder, and tobacco, closed in 1873. The increase in the size of ships, which the harbor of Salem could not accommodate, together with the development of railroads and the building up of centers of trade, all contributed to the decline of Salem's commerce. The whole aspect of the old maritime section of Salem is now changed. Some of the old shops on Derby street remain, dingy and worn, and some of the warehouses nearby were destroyed in the great fire of 1914 and others have been transformed into coal sheds, coal being now the principal article of importation, but the influence of the energy, enterprise, fearlessness and far-sightedness of the old- time merchants will remain for centuries. CHAPTER IV. SALEM ARCHITECTURE. Architectural Periods. To the student of architecture, the buildings in Salem arrange themselves into four classes. First, those very old houses, built by early settlers in the most primitive times, possessing all the dignity and simplicity and, withal, the barrenness of the Puritan character and round which cluster many strange and curious traditions ; second, those built between the earlier years of the 18th century and the beginning of the Revolution, exhibiting the influence of the architect from over-seas and usually containing fine interior wood finish ; third, those built in post-Revolutionary clays, usually by rich merchants and ship owners, when Salem had be- come an important commercial centre, and in which the "colonial" style is exhibited in its very flower ; and fourth, those purely modern structures — confused, chaotic — which have sprung up everywhere re- placing the earlier types. Pickering House. Oi the older buildings a number of excellent examples have survi\-ed. The oldest, without doubt, is the Picker- ing house (18 Broad street) which is one of the few remaining ex- amples of the many-gabled houses with steep roofs evidently built in imitation of the Gothic half-timbered cottages of England. The steep roof was very common in early days, at first a necessity because of the use of thatch as a covering, and later surviving as a fashion of the earlier period. This house was erected in 1660 by John Picker- ing and has been inhabited ever since by his lineal descendants. The present "peaked windows" and the exterior finish were added in 1841 when extensive alterations were made. An iron fireback for a fire- place in this house, cast in 1660 by Elisha Jenks of Saugus, the first iron founder in the colonies, is preserved at the Essex Institute. (32) SALEM ARCHITECTURE ^^ The Witch House, at the corner of North and Essex streets was standing in part at least, in 1675 when the chimneys were taken down and the building remodelled. In this hou e S onI?han Corwin one of the judges of the witchcraft court, an7Sre some of he preliminary witchcraft examinations were he d. iryet retains the overhanging second story but is greatly defaced by a modem drug store which grows out of its side like some excrescence Tndta tive of age and disease. From this drug store it is possible to pass" hrough an arch in the great chimney which is about nvely by eLl feet in dimensions at the first floor. In the Corwin manuscript ^ow m possession of the Essex Institute, is preserved the origmaTcoLrac^ for finishmg this house in 1674-5. It is a very earW examnle of so" ft"?^mf;:'^^^r^ ^^ "°^ ''''''-' '^ the'diifuse'ness^^^b follows documents at the present time. It reads as "Articles and Covenants made, agreed upon, and confirmed be dTewL' SaieT'of'th?;:"' ^' '^^^"^' "^'^^-^' and'Sef An-" are^^s ot balem, of the other part, concerning a parcell of worke p<. followeth, VIZ. : Imprimis the said parcell of worke is o be bes owed in filling plaistering and finishing a certain dweling house bought by the said owner of Capt. Nath'll Davenport of Bost'on and is lu t L't" tcTtbr^i? '^' ^'''' '"^ °^ *^ towCbenvS::; the east and k to h f ° '^"f '"'l' ^"^ Deliverance Parkman on '•r TK. !i n Pf/^'""'^ '^ '^-''^ following directions, viz as ti; ^^:r^^'^:^s^^:':^f^:^^:^^ '-^^ according to the breadthe and len^^the of it ? ic^tZl!^ 'T'' in height and to underpin the po^^h^nd 2 rem nmf ^^L^of'th^ or?he"noX:id:'of'X'r^ '^ '-''''''-' ^^^° ^^ -derpn.?he k?tch n on tne north side of the house, not exceeding one foot • the said kitchen bemg 20 foot long and 18 foot wide; and to make steos wi h stones mto the cellar in two places belonging to the Cellar to' e^her with stone stepps up into the porch. 2. ^^For the chiWys Ti to take down the chimneys which are now standing, and to^ take and make up of the bricks that are now in the chimS ys and the stoned 34 visitor's guide to salem that are in the leanto cellar that now is, and to rebuild the said chimneys with iive fire places, viz.,' two below and two in the cham- bers and one in the garret ; also to build one chimney in the kitchen, with ovens and. a furnace, not exceeding five feet above the top of the house. 3. He is to set the jambs of the two chamber chimneys and of the easternmost room below with Dutch tiles, the said owner find- ing the tiles • also to lay all the hearths belonging to the said house and to point the cellar and underpinning of sd. house and so much of the 3 hearths as are to be laid with Dutch tiles, the said owner is to find them. 4. As for lathing and plaistering he is to lath and siele the 4 rooms of the house betwixt the joists overhead with a coat of lime & haire upon the clay; also to fill the gable ends of the house with bricks and to plaister them with clay. 5. To lath and plaister the partitions of the house with clay and lime, and to fill, lath and plais- ter with bricks and clay the porch and porch chamber and to plaister them with lime and hair besides ; and to siele and lath them overhead with lime ; also to fill lath and plaister the kitchen up to the wall plate on every side. 6. The said Daniel Andrews is to find lime, bricks, clay, stone, haire, together with labourers and workmen to help him, and generally all materials for the effecting and carrying out of the aforesaide worke, excepte laths and nailes. 7. The whole work before mentioned is to be done, finished and performed att or before the last day of August next following provided that said Daniel or any that work with him, be not lett or hindered for want of the car- penter worke. 8. Lastly in consideration of all the aforesaid worke, so finished and accomplished as is aforesaid, the aforesaid owner is to pay or cause to be paid unto the said workeman, the summe of fifty pounds in money current in New England, to be paid at or be- fore the finishing of the said Avorke. And for the true performance of the premises we bind ourselves each to other, our heyers, executors, and administrators, firmly by these presents, as witnesse our hands, this nineteenth day of February, Anno Domini 1674-5. "Jonathan Corwin. Daniel Andrewe." SALEM ARCHITEC-JURE 35 17th Century Houses. Most of the 17th century dwellin-s built m Salem were plain and prim. The huge bulk of the chimSev oc- cupied the centre of the house. Two rooms on the first floor tw-o o-i the second, and an unfinished attic, supplied the needs of the aver- age family. With the necessity for more room came the lean-to a one-story addition, built on one side of the house and introduci'no the long sloping roof. An excellent example of this type of dwell^ mg may be seen m the Nar bonne house (71 Essex street) which wa« built before 1671. The dutch door in the lean-to at the end towards the street, formerly was the entrance to a "cent shop," a Salem insti- tution of seventy-five years ago which has been intimately pictured m Hawthorne's "House of the Seven Gables." The house built in 1684 by John Ward, and now preserved in the garden of the Essex Institute, is of similar type, save that it preserves the overhanging^ second story, the best example now to be seen in Salem. A similar house containing interesting carved timbers may be seen in the urpose after a fire in 1915 which burnt out the interior; externally * Page 49. HAWTHORNE the house retains much of its old form. Mrs. Hawthorne was born September 21, 1809, m a house on bummer street, Salem, (so savs her sister, Miss Elizabeth Peabody in a private letter), but in 1812 the family moved to one of the houses of the large brick block on Union street, extending from Essex, curi- ously enough but a stone's throw from the birthplace of Hawthorne ^'^mg neighbors, the children of the two families played together ^nile the Hawthornes lived in the Herbert-street house, but they saw little of each other after 1818 until they met again as old friends in the Charter-street house in 1838 It IS singular that Hawthorne who must have had most delightful asso^ :i:r uiS^a^il^rll^^^^flS^:^^^^ -^ed its situation more disagreeable pre™ tmem in 'r^ r "^^^ ""^ "^ ^^^ ^^ill there it surely appiar de S^^^ Secret." Yet ^tory as "cornered on n or.J ^ ^''^ "''^P^^^ of the latter cated by a b^ck doo -' .fd'o'i. "'' ^ "'"'^ '''' ^^"^^ ^«"^---- wooden" house perhans a Lnt "'?, ^' '"'" *^^^>' "^ three-story front standin^i^^ron the t^/'V'"-'^^ ^^'^"^ ^ '^-^rl taining the main ntra" VS J^ ^ T''' -^^--^ porch,\on- street through an oval wSot :;'"a?h^i|e"''lf^P T,'""^''' '''' house in 1915 this norrh w^c ^.. fJ' ? ^"^^ ^^"^ ^^e m the Essex Institute where ino^ f^ ^'' '^'' "^^"^^"^^ ^^^^^^""^ of the quented the ceme erv fo "^'' '-"' ""^^'^^^^^"^ ^^'^dently fre- elsewhere in ^^^ th^r "f.^ i^^ "r"' ""^^"" °^ '' ^-- -d a -t to the place, ^'^Z:-^^^^^^^^^'^:^ American Not>3 Books, Vol. i. p. no. ' ^^narter 53 Porch of the ' Gnmshaive '' house now preserved in ,he Essex InstUute garden 1^4 visitor's guide to SALEM ".„ee., a .late gravestone, carved ^^o^^^^^^, ^2^ -™S ,f .CO.. Jo'^".Hf'--%,^S>k dp the e'arth, and leans for- Avitch-judge. The stone is sunk uc i . ^ account of M-ard, and the grass grows ^^v/^^S, f 3' V; V^^"^ . In a cor- ;he moss it -.as rather dilhcult to make out the date^ . ^^^ -™:r^StKcono::.p\,ent.ned ™ ^e^Mag.. . a ^d S~t^one^*^raCr™e^^;U^^^^^^^ A the gass from the half-bnried stone •''"'i .«f, ''iVp — ^' familv this strange ideas to thinlc ho.- '^o^'^,^: ^J ^Mnn arnVs'reach Ivorial ground is, the monuments ^t^^' f j""°^, ;\ ,i,tie gate from of the side windows of the parlor, ^i"-* ""'', ''"'^^^^ old graves ,l,p haclc v^rd throngh which we step forth upon tnesi o u o a Iresatd/^ The natne of Dr. S;"»5-'™ fP^rth s n of "th Gahles," and agah. as the anaen apo.hec^, -1^ «;- -^.^^ „, ,, rs-orSor-rtt — . - rs'rimsi:::js sTcJer^""" from the "Notes" ,s reproduce m_ " ;^Gr™sl a ,^^^^^^^ .^ sai=,:^:?t^^-?^?-^^i^- l^-:S^t,r?l;f.^ne^S^a^ .vas standing in its declnnng ^^'/^If'^''^^^^^^^^^ Xi'os.n as "The this title The ^^^-p^2f:::^,'jjzz.^^^^^^^ House of the Seven Gables ^^a^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^,^^^ aly, relatives of the Hjl^^ liornes a ^.^ ^^^^.^ ^.^^ visitor there. . \- ^if-^Xt" hou;e o^^^^^ had ^even gables, and Susan V^S'^fie a«i sL'h^^ him beams and mortices to prove takmg him to ^^'^^^ '^^^^^^^^ ,y,^ crooked stairs Hawthorne is said the statement. Coming do^^n tne c Q^bles,— that '° "d- Vel^'and ^ ^ Tfter"^ roman'ce^earing this name ap- actual inscription. HAWTHORNE 55 THE TURNER-INGERSOLL HOUSE, KNOWN AS THE "HOUSE OK THE SEVEN GABLES." peared. That the romance had already taken shape before the name had been fully decided upon is shown by a reference to the matter m a letter to a friend written by Hawthorne just before the publica- tion of the work, Avhere he says: "I am beginning to puzzle myself about a title to the book. The scene of it is in one of the old pro- jectmg-storied houses familiar to me in Salem.* ... I think of such titles as 'The House of Seven Gables,' there being that number of gable ends to the old shanty ; or 'Seven Gabled .House/ or, simply, * Hawthorne says in the preface to the "Seven Gables" h^ trn^jtc! r^Xf^ fT^ ^^ ^^^'i?» °^'t a street that infringes upon nobody's pr vltl rights, and appropriating- a lot of land which had no visible owner and a "• afd^ie nX<,° bnft'f^f " 1°".^ '"^ "^« ^°^ constructing clst^s n the air , and he urges that the book "may be read strictly as a Romance hav- ^t^e'I^f^J'^U^^^S^^tl^^s^^' °^--'-^^ "-'^ -^^^ any'^^poSn Be^■^er^l'n^d^4^a^1/t"M^."^^^^^^^^ writing fhe^?tor"?""'''~"''°' ' ^"^ "°* *^^^"'^^^ ^"^ partic'^u'^arTouse'^when 56 VISTTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM 'The Seven Gables.' " The name of the story which was then ahnost finished, as here indicated, migh't easily have been suggested by the visit to Miss Ingersoli in the Turner-street house ; but the house did not have seven gables in Hawthorne's day, nor the projecting stories he has described, and the idea must, therefore, have been suggested to him in some other way than by the house itself. Thus the romancer, while describing features which never existed in the Turner-street house, amongst them a rough-cast ornament under the eaves,* which he took from the specimen now preserved in the Institute and saved by the Historical Society on the destruction of the "Colonel Browne mansion," or "Sun Tavern," built in 1698, at the same time omits, in the most significant manner, all allusion to some of the salient features of the Turner-street house itself, where he had sat through many a summer twilight in the sea-washed garden with his kinswoman, Miss Ingersoli, sniffing the aroma of kelp and eel- grass, so dear to every native of the seaboard, and had seen the ship's lights swinging lazily within hail in the inner harbor, and had heard the salt waves plash and ripple at his feet almost amongst the tree roots and flower beds of the ancient homestead. The Eastern Land claim which figures largely in this story was an actual claim surviving in the author's family for generations, a tradi- tion of his boyhood, and may be traced in the Registry of Deeds in Salem. As late as 1765 it purported to vest in the heirs of John Ha- thorn, merchant, Esquire, a "considerable tract lying between Dam- mariscotta and Sheep's Cutt Rivers, by the inlet Winnegance and the sea," to the head of northwest passage, "which makes about a Tri- angle," seven miles be it more or less, "together with all the Lands, Islands and Isletts, Meadowes, and Harbours, Marshes, Housing, Eencings, Orchards, Gardens, Creeks, Coves and Rivers, con- [per?] taining unto the same," with full rights to possess and enjoy forever the said "considerable parcel," and it was computed to be about 9000 acres, as l)y deed from Robin Hood, an Indian sagamore, re- corded June 16, 1666. * House of the Seven Gables, p. 16. HAWTHORNE c 7 A Story is told of another visit of Hawthorne's to th. -r street house which connects it in an interesting':™ .,1 S ZZZ' A friend of h:s, an adopted son of Miss Ingersoll who Hved Tth; house at the time, one day fell asleep in his diair in tVe south parlor in such a position that he could be seen through an emrvwav bl a person passuig ni the street and glancing in at%ne of he'To^ w'in dows. Seeing him in this way as he approached the house Haw thorne was at first startled by his friend's appearance sS theTe motionless in the half-shadow and cross-lights^ To rea:ssu re L df Hawthorne tapped on the window and waked the sleeper ad then rushing into the house, he exxlaimed, "Good Heaer Horace ? bought you were dead." The connection of this episode with the nic ture of the dead judge seen through the window L tint n hi ch^^^^^^^ ni the parlor of the "House of the Seven Gables," is^v^ent TlL' wnjdow IS thought to have once served the toll-ga herer of the Ma blehead Ferry which left the foot of Turner street, two centuries^go" The house which stood at the corner of Essex and North streets' known as the "Deliverance Parkman House," a sketch of which mlv be seen at the Essex Institute, and referred to in Hawthorne's An"erT can Notes* as a house "wherein one of the ancestors of the present' te"Xldth"1.'V''''"^,'^'^"">^''' '' ^--^^ "^t- t^- story o'f 'Pe- er Goldthwaits Treasure," which first appeared in "The Token" of t,38, and was reprinted in the "Twice Told Tales." A stiUgreater interest is attached to this story, however, for it contains tie frame work so to speak, of the "House of the Se;en Gables. ''Teter Gold h- waites house was "one of those rusty, moss-grown, many peaked wooden houses which are scattered about the'streets of our^ elde owns, with a beetle-browed second story projecting over the founda- tion as If It frowned at the novelty around it." There was an e^fy where I the'; ' ^^V^terious fortune, supposed to be hidden some- where m the house, one report intimating that the ancient Peter had made the gold by alchemy." To find the treasure Go Idthwaite tears out the inside of his house, finding in one room, in a concealed "co- ez or cupboard on one side of the fireplace, a dusty piece of parch- '■ Vol. I, p. 201. S8 visitor's guide to SALEM Hunt House, built about 169b. ment," telling the amount of the supposed treasure and its hiding place. Finally the trea- sure chest is found secreted in a closet by the kitchen chim- ney, but it contains only worthless paper money of the colonial davs. The close re- semblance of this story to parts of the "Seven Gables," where it is more highly elabo- rated, is at once apparent, and again shows clearly that Ha^y- thorne evolved the house in that romance from more than one of these oW Salem houses, among which the "Deliverance Parkman" house should be "^eluded There were several manv-gabled houses, notably the Philip_ Eng- lish tlsZ^nding in Ha.?horne's day but all^ave the^^juven- ated Pickering mansion, have disappeared. The Hunt house corner of Washington and Lynde streets, taken down m 1863, was the most picturesque of any which remained long enough to be preserved by photography. Although the visitor must give up the real house, the old elm tree, the shop. Clifford's chamber, the arched window and the secret closet behind the portrait, and understand that the house in the romance is a composite of all the many - gabled houses then in Salem, with large ad- ditions from the author's teem- Philip English House, built about li HAWTHORNE 59 ing brain, and had no individual existence out of Hawthorne's fancy, still his life is so closely associated with the Turner-street house that it is fairly entitled to the name. There are many references in "The House of the Seven Gables." to real places, such as the Post Office, then in the East India Marine building, and the Insurance Office, in the same region, mentioned in the chapter entitled "The Flight of Two Owls." It was Horace Ingersoll, Miss Susan Ingersoll's adopted son, living in this house, vdio told Hawthorne the story of the Acadian lovers,* which, given to Longfellow, appeared in the now classic poem of "Evangeline." This may be added to the other interesting associations connected with the Turner-street house. Mr. Ingersoll's name before his adoption was Horace L. Connolly. He *died in 1894. An account of his and Hawthorne's connection with the poem of Evangeline will be found detailed in the second volume of the Life of Longfellow. t The tales of a "Grandfather's Chair" are said to have drawn their inspiration from this old house also. On one of his visits here, while he was sitting in a deiected 'state in a deep window seat of the parlor. Hawthorne was complain- ing that he had written himself out. and could think of nothing more. Turning to him, and pointing to an old armchair that had long been in the family, Miss Ingersoll said. "Nat, why don't you write about this old chair? There must be manv stories connected with it." From this hint the little volume, pub- lished in 1841, is said to have come. TWs chair is now preserved at the horace ingersoll House of the Seven Gables." By Southward. Essex Institute Picture Gallery. * American Note Books, 1839, Vol. I, p. 203. T Pages 60, 70. 98-9, and elsewhere. 60 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM The Turner-Street house was built about 1669 and some years ago, in removing its central chimnev there was found an old psalm book and a "Pine-tree" sixpence now preserved among the relics at the house. In 1909. through the energy and generosity of Miss Caro- line O. Emmerton, the house was completelv restored in all of its old features and made the center of a new and most active philan- thropv, a neighborhood settlement. Since then the "()lcl Bakery," formerly on Washington street has been moved to the lot and also thoroughly restored. Tlie disfiguring .Seamen's "Bethel", until recently in front of the "Seven (iables," has been removed to the rear and altered over for purposes of the settlement, so that as of old the ".Seven Gables" now looks out upon the harbor and across to the Marblehead shore. This collection of houses now forms one of the greatest attractions for the visitor to Salem. The Custom House is on Derby street, opposite Derby wharf. Hawthorne was appointed surveyor of the port in 1846, and occu- pied the southwestern front room on the lower floor. The stencil with which he marked inspected goods "N. Hawthorne" is still shown by his courteous successor in office, but the desk at which he wrote will be found at the Institute. So many of the characters and scenes depicted in the Custom House sketch in the "Introduction to the Scarlet Letter" were living realities, it is no wonder that visitors inquire for and confidentiallv expect to be shown tlie majiuscript itself at the Custom House or the Institute. The publica- tion of the "Scarlet Letter" at once produced intense curiosity to see this document of .Surveyor Pue and the em- I)r{ndcred "A" so graphically described, an 1 which many readers of the storv believed to exist. Just at this time a Custom House Desk used by Haw- ^^'^^d a«^ked Hawthomc if he really thorne, now in Essex Institute had the scarlct letter itself, and lie as- Museum. HA\VTHOR.\E 61 of Jervase Helwyse, which l^^i^ni^ZLV:^^^J^^l,^^ own genealogical tree. On the other hand, the ex, no? a l^!' prescribing the cruel penalties of the "Sc.rlet letter-' hi , generally distrusted.'^ Probably i.ost read ^L; allow d\hr selves to suppose it a figment of the writer's br^-n n ^fi- actual copy of the law, in antique print va. s ov n -n the V IV to Barrie, the Scotch romancer, ''^ ^''' Institute he did not hesitate to pro- nounce it the most curious thing in Salem. The Town Pump "A Rill from the Town Pump" was first printed in the "New Eng- land Magazine" in 1835. and later in "Twice Told Tales." The pump stood by a build- ing on Washington street, just south of Essex, the Town House square of to-day, but in constructing the railroad tun- nel, in 1839, the well which supplied it with water was obliterated, and another pump was set up in Washington street at the passageway be- tween the First Church and the ims penalty was inflicted at SDrin«^Airi i\/ro^^ tlie law remained in force until Feb 1?! 178? ^- ""'^ ^^^^ '^^ O^*- Tlie Town Pump near the First Meeting House. From a drawing made about 1825. 1754 and ^2 visitor's guide to SALEM A.i.,e or S.le„, Saving. BanU^uilding. This in ti™e ga^^^ ,0 the present fonntain, ™- -^!* f ^^ , ^bTseen in old pictures, real pump from which the "H" "i can oi y ^ ^„„,,,er „, If .h,ch is f"""-]'^, f^ff ^^^ete pi ures show the pnmp and in the now rare Felts An"al>- '"'^ p fantasy. The its surroundings at about the J^"= "^ "^ ™'.'"Soon by the East," re- opening sentence, "Noon by *^ Nort cloc^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^ fers to the clocks on the old .Norin ''' "^ ^ ^ t^^e cor- clock on the old North meeting^.oue, which t en ^ ^^^^^^ ner of North and Lynde streets, -a. ar^ied here .^ ^^^^^ of the old wooden meetnig-house of the tir.t en , ^^_ ...en that ^^^^^g^^^^^^^lZ^^c^^^^ at the corner ferred to was on the l.ast meeti.ig ' ^^^^ the hours of Essex and Bent ey ff^^s^ Its accessor ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^ on the same old bell, cast by ^^^ J^^^^J^^^; ^,^^4 the removal of the Bentley school house, where it ^^,^:; ^^^^^^^f ^'^ ,, of Hawthorne's church to Washmgton ^^^^^re^ he t^wn pun^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^^ day were famous affairs ^f^f^^^^ - .'^"J p^i.s with a handle pro- with wooden troughs, and often ^^;;^;^^^^\J^';4'' sections of the town, ^-^^^^^ f ''^':^ t^sri^aSj;:^ wh^ the pubuc coma ^^^^^^^^^ -r- introduction to ^^^ f ^^l^j^ ;7t.^^ ^^,^ triumphant thought,-that n.ay be, h^-^^^';;^^; /^^X ;resent race r^av sometimes think the great-grandchi dren o tne p ^^^^ antiquary of days tillf ^o^^t^"-stS^l^'^;he town's history, shall P^^^ir';!^UGS;^^'Da^™r story was printed in the "Democratic Kev^c.^ l^e ^^^^ ^^^^^.^^^^ ^^^^.^^^ ^^^^^^ ,^^^^^ B?M^sl^:lr^^em; ;: CalK^t-street, Beverly, unites the two cities. ;Xfbcto^^e?'iS37, and Salem Observer of Nov. 4. 1837. HAWTHORNE 63 Near the draw, which was lifted like two huge trapdoors by man power, was the old seat described by Hawthorne, but neither that nor the toll-house remains. A sketch representing the place in its former condition may be seen at the Essex Institute. The toll house was a haunt of Hawthorne's in his evening rambles, — he wrote to Longfellow, "Like the owl, I seldom venture abroad till after dusk," — and there he met the old shipmasters who frequented the place and listened to their wonderful sea-tales. "Endicott and The Red Cross." The scene of this sketch, which iirst appeared in "The Token" of 1838, is laid in Town House square. The fact of Endecott's action is historic, but the words and scene are, of course, Hawthorne's. The story is, how- ever, suggestive of the spirit of the times, which is well embodied in the poem by Longfellow, entitled "John Endicott," in his "New England Tragedies." "Main Street." First printed in Miss Elizabeth Peabody's "Aesthetic Papers" in 1849, and later, in connection with the "Snow Image." Main street, of course, refers to Essex street ; but, as the diorama closes with the great snow storm of 1717, no relic of things described save the Corwin or "Witch" house, at the corner of North and Essex streets, can be visited today. Many other references could be given to places and scenes de- scribed in Hawthorne's writings. In the "Carrier's Addresses," en- titled "The Sister Years," and "Times Portraiture," Avritten in 1838- for the Gazette, the then new City Hall, the present structure, is commented upon ; while "I have opened a railroad" refers to the re- cently established steam communication with Boston, the first built section of the old Eastern Railroad ; "the tall steeple of Dr. Emer- son's church" was, of course, that of the South, at the corner of Chestnut and Cambridge streets, destroyed by fire in 1904, where good old parson Emerson retained his connection with the church — a strange thing it would be nowadays — for sixty-seven years. "Dr. Flint's church" was the old East Church on Essex street, previously mentioned. In fact the town may be described as Hawthorne's work- shop from which he turned out, for the delectation of the read- 64 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM ing world, his marvellously constructed and finished wares. "Foot- prints on the Seashore," printed in the "Democratic Review" in 1838, and later in "Twice Told Tales," finds its counterpart in the "ram- ble to the seashore near Phillips' Beach," where Hawthorne "crossed the fields near the Brookhouse villa," as described in the "American Note Books."* The story and the notes read in connection with each other give an excellent idea of Hawthorne's method of constructing his art-work, and the ramble is as delightful today as when Haw- thorne spent the afternoon there, Oct. 16, 1837. Hawthorne fre- quently visited on foot the rocky shores of Beverly. Manchester, Marblehead and Nahant. "Brown's Folly," printed in the "Weal E.eaf,"t finds its prototype in a walk described in the "American Note Books."! The weird detached paragraphs of "Alice Doane's Appeal" (first printed in "The Token," Boston, 1835), are described as being read by the author to "two young ladies ... on a pleasant afternoon in June," Avhile they all rested on Gallows Hill, over- looking the town. The picture of early Salem there recalled is truth- ful and interesting, and the closing paragraph is one with which this chapter may well end. Hawthorne here points out the true lesson of the witchcraft delusion of 1692, and the duty of marking the spot Avliere the final acts of that tragedy took place — a duty which still re- mains to be performed. "Yet, ere we left the hill, we could not but regret that there is nothing on its barren summit, no relic of old, nor lettered stone of later days, to assist the imagination in appealing to the heart. We build the memorial column on the height which our fathers made sacred with their blood, poured out in a holy cause. And liere, in dark, funereal stone, should rise another monument, sadly commemorative of the errors of an early race, and not to be cast down, while the human heart has one infirmity that may result in crime." * Vol. I. p. 04. t Essex Institute, 1860. ± Vol. I, p. 90 (1837). THE ESSEX INSTITUTE AND NEW ENGLAND KITCHEN OF 1750 IN ITS MUSEUM. CHAPTER VI. MUSEUMS AND LIBRARIES. THE ESSEX INSTITUTE. THE ESSEX INSTITUTE (132-134 Essex street) was organ- ized 111 1848, by the union of the Essex Historical Society and the Essex County Natural History Society, and was incorpo- rated the same year. It has for its objects the promotion of history, science and art in Essex County, and is supported by an annual as- sessment upon its members and by the income from its funds. The Essex Historical Society was incorporated in 1821, having for Its object the collection and preservation of material illustrating the civil and natural history of the county of Essex. The veneral)le Dr. Edward A. Holyoke, who alway.^ took the warmest interest in whatever concerned American literature and science, was its first president. The zeal of its members and their friends in a short time gathered together a valuable collection of portraits and relics illustrative of the early history of the county, and the nucleus of a ^ — =ti^=~''-^^S- library, containing files of local news- ^^^^ ^^^'^~^ -- papers, pamphlets, publications of Essex County authors etc Thest- Avere first housed in Essex place, on Essex street, facing Central- then m a room over the Salem Bank, in Pickman place, where Down- nig block now stands ; and afterwards in Lawrence place at the cor- (67) 61 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM 11 er of Washington and Front streets. The society had on its roll of mt.^mbership tlie names of many men of wide distinction, such as Timothy Pickering, Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Nathaniel Silsbee, Nathan Dane, Daniel A. White, Rufus Choate, Leverett Saltonstall, Charles W. Upham, Stephen C. Phillips, Nathaniel Bowditch, Ben- jamin Pickman, and Joseph B. Felt. Its 50th and 75th anniversaries Vi-ere commemorated by the Institute. The Essex County Natural History Society was organized in 1833, largely through the efforts of Dr. Henry Wheatland, "for the purpose of promoting the science of natural history." At first it had a room in the second story of a building in Essex place, opposite Central street. The collection in the spring of 1834 was hardly large enough to fill a single bookcase which had been given to the so- ciety. In 1835 it moved into the fourth story of the Franklin building, at the corner of Wash- ington square and Essex street, but this proving an unsuitable place, it again moved, in 1837, to the Masonic Hall on Washington street, where the Holyoke build- ing now stands. Here its museum occupied a room 15 by 30 feet, ad- joining a larger one used for meetings and lectures. The collections could be seen by visitors at the meetings of the society and at the horticultural exhibitions, which were at this time frequent and popular. In 1842 the society moved to the rooms in the Pickman Place building, 173 Essex street, then vacated by the Essex Historical Society', and formerly occupied by the East India Marine Museum. This building was altered in 1844, when a number of new cases were built and the collection re- arranged. A small room on the lower floor served as a laboratory for zoological and anatomical work, and was occupied much of the time by active members of the society. Here several of the best known naturalists of the dav began their studies. piclyTiari place THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 69 The Essex Institute, at the time of its formation in 1848, oc- cupied the rooms of the Essex Comity Natural History Society, at 173 Essex street, removing in 1857 to the newly built Plummer Hall, ^■.here its museum was arranged in the lower story. A few years later several of the younger members of the Institute, Avho had studied zoology with the elder Agassiz, left Cambridge, and devoted their energies largely to the Institute. In consequence of the ac- tivity of the Institute at this time in the study of natural history and in collecting material for the formation of a large and valualfle zoo- logical and ethnological museum, together with the unexpected op- portunity to purchase the East India Marine Hall, with its large collection of ethnological and historical objects, the attention of Mr. George Peabody, of London, was called to the desirability of estab- lishing in Salem a county institution, which should extend the work already so well begun by the Institute, and at the same time perpetu- ate the unique museum of the East India Marine Society. Tliis he aifected in 1867, by a gift of $140,000, and the establishment of the Trustees of the Peabody Academy of Science, later simplified to Peabody Museum of Salem. The natural history collections of the Institute were transferred to the care of these trustees, and the ob- jects of the Essex County Natural History Society since then have been carried out by the younger institution, and the special work of the Essex Institute has been more in the way of local history, gene- alogy, and art, along the lines laid down by the founders of the Essex Historical Society. It has been the aim of the Institute to brmg together as large a collection as possible illustrating in every way the liistory of the county. A museum has thus been formed of historical objects, furniture, household and other utensils, illustrat- ing the home life of the early settlers and those wlio followed them, revolutionary and other war relics, portraits, and objects of art, manuscripts, and everything which in any way may be considered as belonging to the different periods of the history of Salem and the County of Essex. The Institute also has long maintained courses of free lectures and holds "field meetings" from time to time in various parts of the county. 70 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM THE READ-PRESCOTT HOUSE (1793) Formerly on site of Essex Institute Museum. In June, 1887, the Institute moved from Plummer Hall in- to its new building, 132 Esse)c street, which was erected for a dwelling liouse, in 1851, by Tucker Daland, a well-known merchant of Salem, and after- wards became the property of liis son-in-law, Dr. Benjamin Cox, from whose heirs it was purchased by the Institute, the amount paid being taken from •1 fund bequeathed by the late William Burley Howes. In 1906, the Institute pur- chased from the Salem Athe- na'um the adjoining Plummer Hall property. A staircase hall was built, giving access to both buildings, and extensive alterations provided a well-lighted picture gallery, a museum hall of fine architectural proportions, a bookstack accommodating 300,000 volumes, and modern conveniences of heat- ing and lighting. The museum hall was opened to the public on Sc])t. 9. l'»()7. The Historic Site. About on the site of the museum building, formerly Plummer Hall, stood the house of Emmanuel Downing, who married a sister of Cxovernor Winthrop. Their son, George Downing, a graduate of Harvard College, in the first class, settled in London, and gave his name to Downing street, and through a de- scendent, to Downing College, Cambridge. Capt. Joseph Gardner, the famous Indian fighter, — the "Fighting Joe" of the Narragansett \\ars, — married Downing's daughter, and became its life-tenent ; and from this threshold he set forth, in 1675, for the "Great Swamp Fight," which proved to be his last. His widow married Governor r^radstreet, who lived and died here. Here, says Timothy Pickering, the 59th regiment of the line was halted on its way up from Salem THE ESSF.X IXSTl'lT'TE 71 Nc-ck to disperse, with bayonet and ball if need be, tlie to\vii. niL^eting of August 24. '774, convened at our I'own House. This wns also the homestead estate of generations of the Bowditch fam- ily, and of Hon. Na- tiian Read, m.ember of Congress, the last dwelling house upon the site having been l;uilt by Mr. Read, THE GOVERNOR BRADSTREET HOUSE (1640?) Formerly on site of Essex Institute Museum. who, eighteen vears before Fulton, built and successfully navigated a steamboat on Danvers river, John Hancock being one of the pas- .sengers. William Hickling Prescott, the historian, author of the "Cone]uest of Mexico," "Ferdinand and Isabella," and "Philip the Second," was born May 4, 1796, in the eastern chamber of this house, which became, in 1799, the residence of Capt. Joseph Peabody. Upon the decease of his widow, the estate was purchased by the Salem Athenaeum. The library of the Essex Institute contains (1916) 115,800 vol- umes, 400,000 pamphlets, over 2,600 volumes (1916) of manuscripts and family papers and a very large collection of newspapers, many of them printed in the eighteenth century. Among the special collections of books are 1,600 genealogies; 4,000 town histories and works relating to New England history; the "Ward China Library," containing over 3000 volumes, in the English language, on China and the Chinese, and recognized as the best collection of the kind in the country ; a collection of some three hundred Bibles ; a well se- lected art library; a collection of over 20,000 books, pamphlets, etc., written by Essex county authors, or the product of the Essex county press; over 1,250 log-books and sea-journals, with shipmasters' in- 72 visitor's guide to salem structions and correspondence, detailing privateering cruises in the two wars with England, and -every sort of daring adventure by sea; a library of over 2,200 volumes relating to the commercial marine ; over 4,100 directories from all parts of the world; a large collection of public documents, and the publications of 200 societies — histor- ical, literary, and scientific, in all parts of the world, with which the Institute conducts exchanges. The publications of the Essex Institute are the Historical Collec- tions, issued quarterly, and now (1916) in the iifty-second volume; the Bulletin, containing scientific matter, thirty volumes having been published ; the Proceedings, in six volumes ; and many other histor- ical and scientific works. The Essex Institute is supported by an annual assessment of $3.00 from each of its members, the income from its funds, and by volun- tary contributions from its friends. It is controlled by a board of directors elected by the society. The officers are William C. Endicott, president ; George Francis Dow, secretary ; William O. Chapman, treasurer ; and Alice G. Waters, librarian. The Museum of the Institute is open to visitors daily (except Sundays and legal holidays), from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Visitors may obtain, free, of the attendant, an itinerary, giving a list of places of mterest in Salem. Picture Gallery. — The picture gallery, hallways and adjoining rooms contain alwut 150 paintings, principally portraits of which the more important are : Caliga (1857- ). Portrait of Henry F. Waters." Copley (1737-1815). Portraits of :Mr. and Mrs. Timothy Fitcli and Eev. Edward Barnard, and miniatures of Capt. Joseph Orne and Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Sparhawk Butch School (17th century). A Dutch interior. Frothinyham (1788-1854). 'Portraits of Mrs. TJachel Forrester, Dr. Hol- yoke, Israel Dodge and others. Greeuicood (1727-1792). Portraits of Benjamin Pickman, Gov. Benjamin Gerrish and wife and others. Harding (1792-1S66). Portraits of Judge White and James Bayley. Lely (1617-1680). Portraits of Oliver Cromwell and Sir John Leverett (attributed to Lely). Leslie (1835- ). The war .summons. Little (1857- ). Old Derby wharf, Salem. PARLOR IN 17TH CENTURY HOUSE IN ESSEX INSTITUTE GARDEN. PARLOR OF ABOUT THE YEAR 1800 IN ESSEX INSTITUTE MUSEUM. MRS. TIMOTHY FITCH By Copley. MRS. CHARLOTTE FORRESTER By Stuart. DR. HENRY WHEATLAND By Vinton. ALEXANDER HAMILTON By Trumbull. THE ESSEX INSTITUTE 75 Malhoitc (1777-1S07). Miniature of Elislm Story, M. D. Mannldrd (1G95-1760). Bay of Zora. Ualtesoii (1813-1884). Trial of George Jacobs for witchcraft. Norton (1843- ). Pogy steamer off Grand Manan. Ds(/oo(1 (1809-1890). Portraits of Mrs. Ann C. Paine, Justice Story, and others. f'ealc (1791-1878). Miniature of Oliver Hubbard, M. D. Conssln (1593-1665). Eoman Campagna. Smibert (1684-1751). Portraits of Sir William Pepperrell, Kev. John Rog-ers, and jNIrs. Deborah Clarke. '^odcnna (1477-1549). Madonna and Child. ^oiiiitag (1822-1900). On the Susquehanna. SiKini^h School (18th century). The death of Abel. s7o/7.- (1650-1710). Marine. <1u(U-t (1755-1828). Portrait of Mrs. Charlotte Forrester. TnnuhiilJ (1756-1843). Portrait of Alexander Hamilton. Turner. Ros.s (1848-1915). The last haven. \ an Wi/ck (16th century). The adoration of the Mag-i. Verroort (dated 1826). A g-ame piece. Vinton (184C-1911). Portrait of Henry Wheatland, M. D. For complete list of portraits sec page 190. Fine Arts, Musical Instruments, Architecture, etc. CoUec- [■ions of miniatures, silhouettes, has reliefs in wax, and engravings ; :oIlection of portraits on ivory of East Indian princes — spoils from -he Sepoy Rebellion; historical paintings, — Old Salem Court House, 3uilt in 1785, with view of Washington street; Crowninshield's Wharf, Salem, during the embargo. 1806, by George Ropes; the Old Salem Court House. 1830, by Luscomb ; St. Peter's Church, ?alem, 1833; the Judge Corwin House (Witch House), and other iarly houses ; Views of Harvard College and the Boston Massacre, engraved by Paul Revere ; water color of the Blockade of Boston, painted in 1768 h\ Christian Remick ; a loan collection of Nurem- jerg iron work, etc. ; wood carvings, by Samuel Mclntire ; urns from 5teeple of South Church, 1804; carved wooden cod fish from the Pickman house (17-1-3) ; the "pineapple door head" (1754) ; vanes, 1683 and 1711; leaded glass; balusters from historic houses, sec- tions of stairways, capitals, urns, dados, cornices, and other objects Df interest to architects and house decorators. A large collection of samplers and specimens of fine needlework. A one-horse chaise, 76 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SAI.EM I »W.;-i!l(ii!i.'fl( 4f'-»?:i^ I ' ■ '■ ' ■ • C'-^^njs; Anne Gower Sampler. Before 1628. Grant, Benedict Large collection both ancient and about 1785. Dolls and children's toys and games, toy models of vehicles. Piano made by Benjamin Crehore, of Milton, the first American piano maker ; this piano was the first used at Topsfield. An early Clementi grand piano ; a Broadwood piano of 1691 ; spinet made by Samuel Blythe, of Salem, in 1789, sup- jiosed to be the earliest made in the county. Replica of the Rosetta Stone, Case contain- ing seals — the original design made by George Peabody for the seal of the city of Salem, the royal .seal of Great Britain, German seals of 1525, seal of Doge Morisini CVIII., Doge of Venice, seals of local corporations, etc., etc. Cases displaying manuscripts, — John Holyoke's scrap book, 1660; parchment deed of John Downing, 1700; sermons, 1638-1745, one preached by George Curwen at the First Church, 1716, on a day of thanksgiving for the succession of George I. over the Pretender ; autographs of Washington, Lafayette, Lincoln. Gladstone, Arnold and others. of coins and medals, modern including the Robinson Collection of (3riental coins and the Lee Collection of American coins. Collection of printed books news- papers, broadsides, and first editions dis- playing the progress of writing and printing including 12th century illumi- nated antiphonary, "breeches bible," early New England imprints, the Dec- laration of Independence (1776), etc. Historical Objects. Gov. John En- decott's sundial ; Gov. John Leverett's '^Boh/ditch DesK and Quadrant. THE ESSEX INSTITUTE / / gloves: christening blanket of Gov. William Bradford, 1588 ; sampler wrought by Anne Gow- er, wife of Gov. John Endecott ; Napoleon rel- ics, including a coffee cup belonging to a set used by him during the retreat from Moscow, and a shirt taken from his wardrobe abandoned at that time, also a tassel from his death-bed ; canes used by George Jacobs, who was executed for witchcraft in 1692; lock of the room in which Jefferson wrote the Declaration of Independence ; padlock and key weighing two grains, made in Russia: cherry stone containing 113 miniature silver spoons ; tea from the "Boston Tea Party ;" Wordsworth's inkstand ; paper weight used by Dickens ; law book showing the "Scarlet Letter" law ; a design in plaster from the wall of the old Sun Tavern, Salem; chair owned by Nathaniel Bowditch. and replica of the desk he used when engaged in translating the Mecaniqiie Celeste of La Place : desk used by Hawthorne while at the Custom House, and on which he wrote portions of "The Scarlet Letter" ; pew door from the First Meeting House in Hingham ; the communion table used in the first building of the East church, Salem; hour glass stand from the church in Topsfield, 1700; the New Rowley (now Georgetown) postoffice (1824) ; lacquered table brought from Japan, in 1799, by the ship Franklin, the first Ameri- can vessel to visit that country ; stand for christening basin in use in First Churcn, Salem, in 1691 ; table upon which Moll Pitcher told fortunes during the Revolution ; the "Cape Ann Charter," 1623 ; witchcraft depositions of Ann Putnam and a deed signed bv Bridget Bishop, who was hanged for witchcraft ; a pewter communion service of 1685 ; gin flask of General Miller, of Lvmdy's Lane fame ; per- sonal relics of Gen. F. T. Ward (Taiping Rebellion) ; Roman an- tiquities ; valuable autographic documents ; small fire shovel owned by Benjamin Franklin while living in Boston ; gibbet from Quebec, Gibbet from Quebec, 1TG3. 78 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM liolyol\e ChaiT 1 763, which once held the body of a mur- deress ; guillotine knife of the Freitch rev- olution, etc. Dwellings, Furniture, etc. Ihree rooms — a kitchen of 175(i, with brick fire- place and oven, dresser, corner cupboard, settle, sanded floor, etc., a bedroom of 1800. with full-dressed bed, trundle bed, high chest of draw^ers, Franklin stove, painted floor, etc., and a parlor of 1800, with spinet, carved mantel, and fine mahog- any furniture. These rooms are furnished in manner of the periods which they repre- sent, with original furniture and household utensils. Model of the old Becket house ; model of the South Church, Salem, 1804; model of a chest of drawers, made previous to the Revolution, by a member of the Cabot family ; American clock, made by Richard Manning, Ipswich, 1767, and one made l)y Hoadley, Plymouth (Conn.) ; tall bells, made by "Jacob Strauser. Nurnberg. 1737"; the Pickering house fire back, 1660; sofa covered with taj)- estry, brought from Norman- dy soon after 1685, by a fam- ily of French Huguenots ; oak chair of the time of Queen Elizabeth, one of a set of fom' belonging to the Far lev family of Ipswich, brought to this country in 1635 by the first immigrants of the Dennis fam- ily, and presented, in 1821, John and Alice Pickering- Fireback. to the Essex Historical So- Cast at Saugus in loeo. bavin" a chime of fifteen THE ESSEX INSTITU'JK 79 ciety, to be used by Dr. E. A. Holyoke, the president; the George Rea Curwen collec- tion of antique furniture,— desks, dressin^^ tables, sofas, chests of drawers, oak chests^ full dressed bed, bureau, cradles, tables, old settle, old trunk, etc., etc. ; trunk formerly the property of Sheriff Jonathan Corwin 16/0 ; cradle of Judge Storv, and of his son the sculptor and poet ; rush bottom chairs from the Trask house, 1700; child's chair about 1790; key of the Ipswich jail, 1751 ■ lock and key, Salem jail, 1813, etc etc Silver, China, Glass. Tin, and Iron Ware. Silver loving cup (Swan, 1749) spoon (Hull), cream jug (Revere), por- ringers l)y Winslow and Burt, patch boxes spoons, etc., by Hanners, Edwards, Lang,' Hiller, Brookhouse, and others: Collection of china and pottery, showing examples of worn about nes. rafed Dem rrr' "'f ' ^'"^°"' ^'^^^^^^^d and undeco- lated, Delft; oriental Lowestoft; Sevres, etc., and many examples of European and Oriental ware ; Washington pitchers, Nelon p fcl er puzzle pitdier ; silver and copper lustre pottery ; 'gingeMa^if of cfeTs f'olf V"^^^^^^ ?^^''"^^ "^ '' eighteenth'centm-y ;'li,uor case, 81 , collection of old glass,— wme glasses (1700-1800) lar-e glass beaker of 175-J, old pressed bottles'and glasses; old pewt?r dishes cups, mugs, lamps, etc. ; wooden boxes and chests • coJllc tion of tiles ; collection of candlesticks, snuffers, tinder box^ old metal and glass lamps of difl-erent periods ' ( 1 nffi?^, 7-"^ Ornaments. Collection of American costumes (17U-1850) displayed on figures; wig worn by Rev. Eliab Stone minis er at North Reading, Mass. ; old wig described by Hawd.or le in the American Note Books"; collection of old hats and bonnets les 1™ ,?sm ' ^^^n^f^-^'"' 0760-1850), shoes, shoe buck- les (1760-1850); ancient fabrics; dresses, embroidery, and lace; Silver lace brocade dress worn about 1765. 80 visitor's guide to SALEM waist-coat «or„ by Capt. f^^^^<^^-' ^^:'^:^Tl^^Xl^^l :ffr:;>St^'(:ee'^ko£por«.it.) funeja.™^ ?r"- '" "m dXre". New l^i'.ld' baskets ; hind mill stone, 1690; over iOO ditteren.- iNtw i:.^ Fmicis Peabodv ; wooden bought frotn E"gand .„ O30 b^Lt^F^^^ ^,^,_ i^loush used bv a iJoxtora iMinuix, ii.dii -Romacre nrint- 1-7-7= inrp fr-^me in nse in Ipsw ch previous to 1790, Kama^e prmi 1775; lace fraiiie^nase 11^ of razors ; large collection of fire r^Ptf\idel T he Wm Penn and Lafayette old-type hose car- i)uckets models ot tne win. ooms, and carpenter, blacksmith, shoemaker, currier, cooper, etc. Weapons, War Relics, etc. Helmet, time of Cortez; ancient breastplate found m Mexico : cap worn by Capt. Titcomb of Wash- hicnon's Life Guard; cap of Hessian soldier Revolutionary period; links of chain stretched across Hudson river at West Pomt durmg the Revolution; collection of Revolutionary relics —hats, uniforms, muskets, swords, Hessian cap. me. powd'er horns, bullets, etc.; saddle bag THE ESSEX IXSTITUTE used at Bunker Hill ; full uniform of a General in the war of 1812 j uni- forms of local military organizations, 1789-1875; Capt Driver's original "Old Glory" flag; wooden torpedo, from Charleston, S. C, harbor (Civil War) ; wheel used in Salem at the time of the draft, 1863 ; collection of relics of the Civil War, — muskets, swords, pistols, dirks, knapsacks, canteens, drums, bullets, shot and shell, etc.; Waterloo relics; Crimean war relics ; Emilio collection of mili- tary buttons, etc., etc. Out of-doors Museum. In the the ijarden in the rear of the Insti- ORIGINAL "OLD GLORY," 1831. Built JOHN WARD HOUSE 1G81. In Essex Institute Garden. tute {entrance at the right of the main staircase) is a 17th century house (built in 1684) with overhanging second story and peaked windows in the roof. The rooms on the first floor are furnished in the man- ner of that period and the apothecary shop (1830), a Sa- leanto in the rear contains an lem "cent shop" (1830), and a weave room. Beside the house is a garden of 17th cen- tury flowers, an old time well- sweep and a small shoemaker's shop supplied with the equip- ment of about 1830. The vis- itors will also find the first Quaker meetine: house built in 82 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM Salem in 1688 by Thomas Maule ; the liideon Tucker porch (1806) de- signed by Samuel Mclntire ; the porch from "Dr. Grimshawe House," see page 52; fhe cupola from the Pick-' man - Derby - Brookhouse mansion (about 1790) containing a Corne fresco ; a mile stone (1711), etc. Every year families destroy many articles which have, or hereafter may have, a historical value. Donations of the following objects are always acceptable to the society, for preser- vation in its museum and library, viz., paintings, portraits, and objects of art, miniatures, silhouettes, en- gravings, prints, photographs (espe- cially of Essex County places and people), stamps, seals, coins and medals, theatre bills, concert pro- grams, all kinds of circulars, continental and other currency, sam- plers and old needle work, old musical instruments, ancient furni- ture and clothing, old andirons, shovels and tongs, fire buckets, warming pans, tinder boxes, tools used in the various trades, old silver and metal spoons, old pewter, china, and glassware, old watches and clocks, autographs and other manuscripts, old bills, letters, and ac- count books, books, pamphlets, newspapers, magazines, directories, etc., in fact, all articles which now or in the future may throw light on our history, or manners or customs. GIDEON TUCKER PORCH (i Essex Institute Garden PtABOliY AIU.sLU.M ^hASl INIMA MAKINK HALL) THE PEA BODY MUSEUAl. The Peabody Museum of Salem owes its name to George Peabody of London who in 1867 gave the funds by which the museum of the East India Marine Society founded in 1799 and the natural history collections of the Essex Institute were combined in an institution in the hands of trustees conducted for the "Promotion of Science and Useful Knowledge in the County of Essex.* The Salem East India Marine Society was an unique institution, * George Peabody was born in South Danvers, — named Peabody in liis honor in 1858, — February 18, 1795. He died in London. November 4, 1869 and was buried in Harmony Grove cemetery in Salem in February, 1870. The institu- tion was originally incorporated as the "Peabody Academy of Science", a mis- leading name changed by act of legislature to the "Peabody Museum of Salem." (83) 84 visitor's guide to sai.em its membership being restricted to "any persons who shall have nav- igated the seas near the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn, either as Masters or Commanders, or (being of the age of twenty-one years) as Factors or Supercargoes of any vessels belonging to Salem." The ob- jects of the organization were : — First, to assist the widows and chil- dren of deceased members who may need it ; Second, to collect such facts and observations as tend to the improvement and security of nav- igation and, Third, to form a Museum of natural and artificial curiosi- ties, particularlv such as are to be found beyond the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn." The first gift to the museum was from Capt. Jonathan Carnes, a number of objects from Sumatra, several of which are still preserved and treasured as the nucleus of the Pea- body Museum. The East India Marine Society at first occupied rooms on the third fioor of the Stearns building, which formerlv stood at the northeast corner of Washington and Essex streets, but, in 1804, the Society moved to rooms expressly fitted for the purpose in the then new Pickman building, which occupied the present site of the Downing lilock, 173 Essex street. It is an interesting fact that these rooms were later tlie home, successively, of the Athena-um, the Historical and Natural History societies, and the Essex Institute. Between the years 1804 and 1820, the collections rapidlv increased, the museum liecame crowded and, in 1824, the East India Marine Hall building was erected. The lower floor was occupied by the Asiatic Bank, the (')riental Insurance Office, and the U. S. Post Office, while the large hall above, one hundred feet long and fifty feet wide, was devoted to the museum and the social meetings of the organization. The dedication, a great event at the time, took place October 14, 1825, John Quincy Adams, then President of the XTnited States, delivering the opening address. During the v'ears which followed, accessions to the ethnological department of the museum, from China, India, the Pacific Islands, Africa and South America, were numerous and valuable, while at the meetings of the society there came together, socially, the trav- elled merchants and ship-masters of Salem: elegant suppers were THE PEAliODY MUSEUM 85 served on the great crescent shaped table which formerly occupied the center of the hall, and many distinguished guests were enter- tained. As early as 1821 the society printed a catalog of its museum which, even then, was arranged as a scientific collection. It is interesting besides to record that, during the entire century and more of its existence, no admission fee has ever been charged visitors to the mu- seum. At first, meml^ers' cards admitted to the hall which was kept open during the warmer months and since the museum has been in the hands of the Peabody Trustees its doors have been constantly open, free to all. The East India Marine Society exists today as a board of trustees acting solely under the first clause of its organiza- tion, distributing the income of its fund among the families of its members "who may need it". The Peabody Museum now occupies the East India Marine Hall building erected in 1824, the Ethnological building erected in 1885, with the lecture hall (Academy Hall) on the lowe'r floor, and Weld Hall, with work rooms and offices on its lower floor, built in 1906, the gift of Dr. Charles G. Weld, a benefactor of the institution in many other ways. Tlie museum has published memoirs, reports and pocket hand books on natural history and other subjects. It con- ducted one of the first summer schools of biology and maintains lec- tures and classes in natural history and cooperates with local school boards and with private schools in class work at the museum. The work of the institution is conducted and its museum is main- tained entirely from the trust funds and the contributions of gen- erous friends; it has no other source of income. The annual" ex- penses have increased witli the growth of the museum and the de- mands of the times and its work and usefulness could be greatly ad- vanced by additions to its fund and income. The publications, pho- tographs of objects in the collections, etc., may be obtained of the constable in the museum. Those who desire information regardino- the specimens, or in relation to scientific subjects should make in- quiries at the offices or on request the constable will call some officer of the museum. PEABODY MUSEUM MARINE ROOM-TWO VIEWS. THE PRABODY MUSEUM »/ THE MARINE ROOM. The Marine Room collections occupy the large front room and the corridor cases and walls on the lower floor of the East India Marine Hall building directly at the public entrance. The collection includes the portraits of prominent Salem merchants, members and officers of the Salem East India Marine .Society, together with many interest- ing relics connected with the early social character of that institu- tion ; a large collection of paintings and full-rigged and builder's working models of old types of sailing vessels and objects of every sort illustrating the life of a sailor. It forms a fitting memorial of the commercial-marine history of Salem and the shipmasters and merchants who, — as indicated in the motto of the city seal, — brought to Salem "the riches of the Indies" and carried her name and fame "even to the remotest ports". "*' In the corridor case next the main entrance are arranged the objects illustrating the whaling industry; also the nautical instru- ments. I'he whaling collection begins with the natural history of whales and continues with harpoons, bomb-lances, shoulder guns, used in their capture and a huge Norwegian bomb harpoon fired from a cannon on whaling .steamers. On the wall opposite are hafted implements ready for use, — harpoons, old and recent forms, lances, cutting-spades and "grains". In another section of the case are the products of the industry, — oils, spermaceti, whalebone, tooth ivory and ambergris, the last a product of disease of the sperni whale and varying in value from two to four hundred dollars per pound. There are full-rigged models of the whaling bark "Sea Fox", a whaling brig from Provincetown and a whale-boat, besides several paintings, eight half-hull models of old-time whaling ves- sels and many souvenirs made on long voyages by sailors. Among the nautical instruments are quadrants from 1750 to I860, sextants, circle of reflection, half-circle, nocturnal of 1724, implement for drawing curves, of 1693, logs, artificial horizons, * The city seal was designed by Col. George Peabody in 18.39. The origi- nal sketches may be seen at the Essex Institute. 88 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM L NOCTURNAL, 1724. compasses, sounding leads, etc. In the hallway beyond are builder's half-hull models of Salem ships and others from 1794 to 1866, models of the "Constitu- tion," "Flying Cloud" and a three- masted schooner beautifully made by the donor, Herbert M. S. Skinner of Fall River. There are more than one hundred hull models in the collection, two of which are made to show timber construction. In the Marine Room are the portraits of Salem merchants and ship-masters and members of the East India Marine Society,— Derby, West, Gray, Peabody, Pickman, Silsbee, Bertram and many more, and a large collection of original paintings of Salem ships bv well known painters of the period from 1795 to 1840, Roux of Marseilles, Sal- mon, Corne, and others. In the central case are full-rigged mod- els of the ship "Friendship", 1797, the privateer "America", 1813, the armed brig "Rising States," probablv 1786, the U. S. S. "Ohio", 1820 and a model of the frigate "Constitution" given the museum in July, 1813, by Capt. Isaac Hull while fresh from his capture of the "Guer- riere". This model, the most ac- curate known of the frigate, was followed in rigging "Old Iron- sides" in 1907 when restored by order of Congress. There are Swift of whale ivory made by a sailor. SHIP "HERCULES," AT NAPLES, 18(i;i. PRIVATEER "GRAND TURK," ENTERING MARSEILLES, 1815. ^^W^d ^^l^^i^vnpWi MODEL OF BRIG "RISING STATES," BUILT IN 1783 THE pf:abody museum 91 rigged models of old and recent fishing schooners, "pinkies", "Block Island" boat, barks, ships and schooners and sloop yachts. Among the relics and sailors' handiwork are "scrim- shaw" whale's teeth and walrus tusks engraved with curious de- signs, a carved "swift" of bone "Heaven and the Day of Judgment, 14th century wood carving. Scrimshaw work on a whale's tootli, 1S25. and ivory, "jagging- wheels" for crimping the edges of pastry, work- boxes, carved cocoanut dippers and other souvenirs of long voyages. The room is bordered with sea and chart chests that have been on many an old ship and some that have actually circumnavigated the glolie on Salem vessels. The sex- tant used by Dr. David Living- stone on his African explorations is preserved here. It was brought home by a Salem ship-master who obtained it when Dr. Livingstone's efi'ects were sold at Zanzibar. Among the relics of the early social activities of the East India Marine Society are the punch bowl, 1786, made in China for Derby's "Grand Turk", of Salem, the first ship from New England to visit Canton, the liuge cfcina soup tureens given the society in 1804 and other bowls and pitchers used at the banquets of the society from 1800 to 1830. Here also is the remarkable carving in box- wood, representing "Heaven and the 92 visitor's guide to SALEM Day of Judgment," 109 full iength figures and heads, all exquisitely carved, being crowded into two hemispheres each but one and one- half inches in diameter. This carving Avas the work of a monk in the fourteenth century and was the terminal ornament of an elaborate rosary owned by some noble or prince. It was given the museum in 1806 by Gen. Elias Hasket Derby who received it from a gentleman of Westphalia who was travelling in this country. The cases at the left of the entrance corridor, while connected with the Marine Room, are used for special exhibitions of timely in- terest which are frequently changed. The Trustees of the Peabody Museum are : — George Agustus Pea- body, President: Elibu Thomson. Vice-President; Richard Wheat- land, Secretary and Clerk, John Robinson, Francis Henry Apple- ton, Dudley Leavitt Pickman, William Crowninshield Endicott John Charles Phillips and Frank Weston Benson. Treasurer' George Albert Vicker)-, Naumkeag Trust Company, Salem The of- ficers of the Museum are:— Edward Svlvester Morse, Director Emeritus; Lawrence Waters Jenkins, Assistant Director (in charge) and Curator of Ethnology ; Albert Pitts Morse, Curator of Natural History; John Robinson, Keeper of the Relics of the East India Marine Society (in charge of the Marine Room). From the Middle Entry pass up the stairs into the HALL OF NATURAL HISTORY. The natural history collections comprise two series ; one from the world in general, synoptic in character; and one from Essex County intended to be as complete as possible. ' ' The formation of a collection illustrating every species of the ani- mals, plants, and minerals ^f the County, as well as the relics of the prehistoric inhabitants, was one of the first aims of the Essex County Natural History Society in 1834, and this work has been continued by the Essex Institute and the Peabody Museum. The County contains about 550 square miles of territory, has THE PEABODY MUSEUM 93 some 60 miles of coast-line, one large river, several smaller ones, and nmiierous ponds. Few hills ex- ceed 300 feet eleva- tion, but the soils are varied in character, with woodlands and swamps favorable to plant and animal life, mud - flats, salt-marsh, sandy bcadies and rocky shores, hence the great variety of tiie fauna and flora in the Countv collection. Mammals of Essex Golden Eagle killed in Marble- 1 eid, 1915. Wildcat killed in Danvers, 1821. County, (Floor) This collection in- cludes two wildcats which were taken in the county in 1821 and 1832, fine speci- meiis of the fox, mink, otter, raccoon, and harbor seal, besides the more common smaller mammals ; also, a cast of a pigmy sperm whale taken at Nahant, and the skeleton of a blackfish (a species of whale) which was killed near Beverly bridge, where it had become stranded by the outgoing tide. Birds of Essex County. (Floor) TJie local collection of birds is a notable one, containing 272 species, 916 speci- mens of birds actually taken within the limits of the county, besides the nests and eggs of many resident species. Numerous rare transients and accidental visitants are represented and several remarkable 94 VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM albinos, as well as various plumages of the more common species. A seasonal chart shows their distribution through the year, and a pocket list has l)een published wdiich forms a useful guide for the observer. Fishes and Reptiles of Essex County. (Floor) The collec- tion of reptiles contains examples of the rattlesnake, which is still found in the county in small numbers, and some rare turtles, includ- ing the great leathery turtle, a marine wanderer, wdiich was captured in a fishing net at Rockport ; that of fishes includes several of strik- ing proportions or unusual interest, e. g., the sturgeon, tunny, sunfish, swordfish, several sharks, and a codfish of gigantic size. Invertebrates of Essex County. (Floor) These are repre- sented by sponges, hydroids. shells of freshwater and marine mol- lusks, crabs, lobsters — including one which weighed 25 pounds and a special collection of abnormal lobster-claws of scientific interest; al- so, many insects and examples of their destructive work and archi- tecture (floor and central gallerv). General Zoological Collection. (Floor) This collection U synoptic in character and systematic in arrangement. Most of the specimens were received from the Essex InstUute, and many have been added by exchanges. A few of the large shells and some of the birds and reptiles came from the collection of the East India Marine Society. The most striking features are: — a fine collection of corals, particularly rich in East Indian species and fan coral ; a collection of rnollusks, the largest portion of which, for want of exhibition space, is kept in cases in a lower room, accessible only to students; a collec- tion of snakes and turtles, including several giant tortoises from the Galapagos Ids., and elsewhere ; a good representation of the families of birds ; a collection of marsupials from Australia and America ; a collection of mammals, including specimens of the bison, deer, bears, leopard, and many smaller species; and skulls and skeletons, in- cluding a very fine skeleton of the gorilla and two of man, male and female. The collection of heads and horns (South gallery and gallery rail- mg) contains 52 specim.ens, representing 36 species of large game ]S THE PEA BODY MUSEUM 95 from different parts of the world of interest to the sportsman and trophy-hunter. A special educational exhibit (Floor) compares horns and antlers, and another deals very fully and practically with the teeth of the horse, illustratinti; structure, growth and wear, youth and age, etc. Minerals and Rocks of Essex County. (Floor and southwest gallery) This collection was brought together by John H. Sears, a former curator, while engaged in a systematic survey of the county in behalf of the trustees. The collection includes more than 1300 specimens. To illustrate their practical value in the arts and for building purposes, 100 specimens of the rocks are accompanied by polished examples placed beside the same rock in the natural state. Photographs of geological formations represented in the county, and in some instances, thin sections of the rocks prepared for microscopi- cal study, and enlarged prints from microphotographs, are also ex- hibited. A geological map of the county, indicating the outcropping rocks, prepared by Mr. Sears and published by the Essex Institute, ih based upon this collection. A copy hangs at the head of the east gallery stairs. School Collection of Minerals and Rocks. (Central gallery) Historical geology, rock formations, fossils ; minerals, — typical spec- imens arranged in systematic order ; ornamental stones, — geodes, agates, marbles, etc. The collections are arranged for the use of teachers and students of mineralogy and geology. Together they in- clude some 1200 specimens from all parts of the world. Botanical Collections. (West gallery) The exhibition collec- tion consists of a very full series of the woods of the county trees and shrubs, woods tested for strength and fuel value, nuts, acorns, and plants poisonous to handle. Also, a small collection of general character, composed chiefly of economic plants and plant products from all parts of the world, woods, gums, fibres, fruits, a turpentine- box, etc. The herbarium of County plants comprises about 4,000 sheets and is arranged in cabinets in Weld Hall. It may be consulted by 96 visitor's guide to SALEM Students on application to officers of the museum. No attempt is made to form a large collection outside of county specimens, but a considerable number of plants useful for comparison and general study are preserved in the herbarium. Prehistoric Relics of Essex County. (Northeastern gallery) Native rocks and implements made from similar materials. Axes, gouges, club heads, sinkers, arrow points, knives, pottery, miscella- neous relics. Stone implements, celts, arrow and spear points, from shell-heaps and graves. This collection is extensive and Avorthv of careful examination. Among the surface finds, the axes, gouges, knives, and spear and arrow points are especially fine. The objects from graves and shell-heaps are not only numerous, but of great rarity. Many mounted stone implements, from the later stone age of Alaska and elsewhere, are placed in this section, to show the probable mode of mounting the prehis- toric implements. The rocks of Essex County, from which the objects found were undoubtedly made, are shown in one case, togelher'with\implementsmade from each variety. All of the specimens are fully explained by the labels. At the foot of the gallery stairs is a large stone mortar, weighing 1022 pounds, found at the site of an Indian village near the Ipswich river in Middleton. These prehistoric relics are, no doubt, the Avork of the tribes of Algonquin Indians which inhabited the region, or, in lare instances, inay have been obtained by them from more distant tribes, in warfare or by barter, before the coming of the white man as a permanent resident to these shores. But many of the specimens found in graves, associated with undoubted Indian skeletons, such as beads of European make, brass trinkets and copper cooking pots, clearly indicate contact with Europeans. These objects were un- Stone bear. Indian totem found in Salem. THE PEABODY MUSEUM 97 doubtedly olDtained during tlie sixteenth and early portions of the seventeenth centuries, and are. therefore, about 250 to 350 years old. ]\']any of the oljjects of purely native ^vorkmanship may be much elder. The museum also possesses many of the types of New Jersey relics described by Dr. C. C. Abbott in his "Stone Age in New Jersey" and "Primitive Industry"; relics of the Swiss lake-dwellers, and implements from northern Europe. These may be seen and studied on application to officers of the museum. ETHNOLOGY HALL. Passing from the Natural Llistory Hall (southeast corner) the visitor enters Ethnology Hall. The cases are distinctly labelled by countries and regions. On the floor will be found the objects from the islands of the Pacific Ocean and Malay Archipelago while in the gallery are those from Africa, North and South America and the island of Yeso. The table cases on the floor and the gallery rail cases contain the small- er objects belonging to the group immediately adjacent. The value of these collections, as well as those from Chi- na and India, is greatly enhanced by the fact that many of the objects were brought back dur- mg the early years of the last century. Attention is called to a few of the more rare and interesting specimens. Figurehead of New Zealand war canoe. Polynesia (17 sections). Nrru Zealand. Carved figurehead of a war canoe, named Koma- rurua, built at Alangatapu by the Whanau-a-Apanui tribe and sold to the Ngati-Tai tribe in 1830; shark's tooth ceremonial knife; stone clubs ; jade ornaments ; and carved nose flutes. PEABODY MUSEUM HALL OF ETHNOLOGY AND WELD HALL. THE PEABODY MUSEUM 99 Marquesas. Large clubs decorated with grotesque faces ; carved foot rests for stilts ; clubs ornamented with bunches of human hair ; neck ornaments of braided human hair ; and ear ornaments carved from whale's teeth. Hawaii. Idol, six feet tall, one of many which formerly stood in the sacred enclosures on the island of Hawaii, only three of v/hich are now known to be \\\ existence, one in the British Museum and one in the Bishop Mu- seum, Honolulu ; very fine royal necklace of braided human hair with pendant carved from a whale's tooth ; fans of rare form ; gourd drmii for the hula dance ; very fine baskets ; a lava slab with depressions for some game played with coral pellets, and many stone im- plements. Easter, Manahiki, Savage, Samoa and To- kelaii. Carved ancestral figures from Easter Island ; blocks for printing designs on tapa and m.at with feather border, from Samoa ; Tokelau buckets collected by Robert Louis Stevenson. Hervey, Society and Tonga. Finely carved ceremonial paddles, adzes and food ladle, from Hervey islands ; large gorgets ornamented with feathers and human hair, and tapa with fern designs, from Society islands ; ornament of orange cowries and carved clubs, from Tonga islands. Hawaiian idoi. Melanesia (23 sections). Fiji. Over 130 clubs and spears, in great variety, some orna- mented with shell beads; unique double roofed devil's temple; fork and large wooden bowl used in cannibal feasts ; very large bowls for mixing the native intoxicant — kava ; dresses, wigs ; hair pins and *niat needles made from human bones. J 00 VISITOR'S Guide to sai.em New Briiauij N eiv Hebrides, New 'Ireland and Solomon. Stone headed clubs from New Britain ; very small bow and arrows from New Hebrides, curious dance masks and beautifviUy carved canoe ornaments, from New Ireland: spears and arrows with fish bone barbs, human skull inlaid with pearl shell and very fine "long-pig'' bowl for cooking human flesh, from , Solomon islands. Neii> Guinea. Stone adzes ; mor- tars for crushing the betel nut, the native substitute for chewing tobac- co ; bird of paradise showing the method of preparing the skin by the natives as tribute to their chiefs. \u this condition, by barter, these skins. ^^ ith the legs removed, found their wav to Europe, and finding no legs, ignorant people supposed the bird was always on the wing, like the heavenly cherubs. For this reason, and not for their beauty, the name "paradise bird" was given. Micronesia (8 sections). Gilbert. Baskets ; weapons edged with shark's teeth ; life size figure completely dressed in cocoanut fibre armor including the verv rare gauntlets set with shark's teeth. Caroline and Marshall. Clubs ; spears ; A^ery large adzes with blades made of tri- dacna, or giant clam shells ; necklaces of human and dog's teeth" and woven oraSS belts Cannibal bowl, 49 in. long. Solomon islands. Unique model of Fiji devil's temple. THE PEABODY MUSEUM 101 of beautiful design and color, from the Caro- line islands. Dance wands and twine covered svith basket work ; large rigged model of double canoe and native chart, from Marshall islands. Australia (2 sections). Queensland and Ne^^: South Wales. Boom- erangs ; parrying shields ; clubs ; spears edged with flmt ; spear throwers for increasing the velocity of the spear; and bull-roarers vised in initiation ceremonies of native societies. IVIalav Archipelago (15 sections). PhilUppines. Spears ; shields ; head axes ; head basket ; curious head ornament made from ihe beak of 1 bird ; and carved figures, from the Bontoc and Ifugao tribes of Luzon. Brass bowls and betel boxes ; coat of chain armor with carabao horn plates ; and brass can- non, from the Moros of Mindanao. Very curious bas- ket from Basilan. Collec- tions from Samar and Min- doro, including odd native Mangyan writing on bambu. Formosa. Armor covered curious carved loving cups ; chief's tunic made of civet skin ; necklace made of wasp's heads ; and breast ornament of boar'-; tusks and human hair worn only l)y a man who has taken many heads. Borneo. Swords ornamented with locks cif hu- man ]-iair ; large brass gong with dragon in relief , and finely woven baskets with designs in red and black. Boxes and model of a boat made of cloves from Amboyna. \i,Tmm. Gilbert Island warrior. with snake skin Mangaian adz. 102 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM <.»,;» ,"i's,r ■" ■•"■ •■••• •" '■■■'*•'•'■ .«i 1. Africa (20 sections). n,emtd"vdf^r„ b':r:;,:Sen"""'^"' '"~-; an'd nose orna- br,de's shoes inlaid with mother-of-pearlfand gan« f ^l^Tu^^^^ British and German East Africa Iron c^narl. SlTol'S/s'-f-t-.T-l"^*" for smoking: Wrora,n:,S* ■fl/Si.Zllf .a"^ 'o?7 "T^' body from lake N,.^™, ''"™" '^^"^ ^"* W="i«^ ""ough the THE PEABODY MUSEUM 103 Madagascar. .Musical instrument made of bambu with the outer sur- face lilted to form the strings and a large leaf for a sounding board; fine cloths; and models of carrying chairs. Zululand. Assegais; knob ker- ries; headdresses of ostrich feath- ers; and bead girdles and armlets. Kongo. Drums with stands carved in human form; long drum carved in relief with a snake swallowing a man ; fet- ish drum Mangaiija Ceremonial Axe. Monbuttu fetish drum. used by the Monbuttu tribe ; war horn made of an ele- phant's tusk; beautifully woven chief's caps; spears, axes and throwing knives of many forms; fetish figures; and a collec- tion made on Stanley's trip through "Darkest i\frica," including chief Mako- ko's brass collar. Guinea Coast and Sudan. Seats carved from a single log; stone water filter; fine leather quivers, scabbards, bridles and pouches; cloths; hammocks; woven dish covers; models of canoes; and fetishes of odd materials. Sahara. Hide water bottles; pangolin shell and rhinoceros hide shields; and shell and bead ornaments. 104 VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SALEM Yezo (4 sections). The Ainu savages of Yezo (of Caucasian stock) were the precursors of the Japanese and Ainu place names, as far south as Sat- suma, indicate, as early Japanese history does, that formerly the Ainu occupied the whole region. They are no^Y confined to Sakalui and Yezo. In tins collection may be seen a salmon skin coat and boots; cedar bark coats; rude bows and arrows; and a Japanese painting of a bear ceremony. NoKTH America (.22 sections). Alaska and AL-utian Islands. Coat with hood and cape, made from the intestines of the seal, which formerly belonged to Kin<.- Kamehameha I of the Hawai^ian islands'^ curious chief's hat: verv long belt set with caribou teeth; pipe, beautifully engraved made from a walrus tusk; and models of kiaks, the native canoes bluett Inf TT'r f"^' '''''''' ^'"P^^^"^ PiP^^; ceremonial blankets, la ge hats Inielv woven ; old baskets; and the breast bone 01 a trumpeter swan covered with basket-work ra^'arrb!-''';;!"T-l ^""^ Ti' ''T ^'''' ^^^'^ California. These ratts are like the balsas of Lake Titicaca, Peru. Rare ceremonial feather headdress of the Hupa Indians; old bead and qu K wo k 'ron tomahawk from a lot sent over from France in 1744; medkine pouch beaver skm : scalp of a Crow Indian: sash worn bv cSef Tt l .A \ 1"" V''''' ^'"^"''^' ■' ^'^' ''^^ d'-^^^ed figure of a Pal Ute; and a large Penob-scot canoe given in 1826 Mexico. Ceremonial arrows from shrine; spindles; and crude neck^' T '^'" "^T ^r^""" ''^'^^"" '''^'^^ head-bands; bead necklaces of married and unmarried men ; bead wristlets with design of star-.shaped sacred plant "toto" ; piece of hikuli, a sacred cactus Ancient .Mexican figure. THE PEABODY MUSEUM 105 used ceremonially as an intoxicant ; priest's tobacco gourd, those with many natural excresences being most valued ; bows and arrows ; and quivers made from deer skin, from the Huichol Indians. Figures of native workmanship illustratmg native scenes and customs ; ancient jiottery figure ; and ancient stone mortar in form of owl used for grinding chili. Central Ajiicrica. Ancient and modern pottery; and stone nic- tates for grinding corn, from Costa Rica, San Salvador and Nicara- gua . South America (7 sections). Vciu'ziu'la. Old apron of seeds; quiver for poisoned darts; and sago, squeezer. Brazil. Brilliant feather headdresses and ornaments from tribes on the Upper Amazon ; blowgun and poisoned darts ; native clay cup containing poison used on darts ; and a leather suit and hat. Peru. Pottery with interesting decorations, finely woven cloth and a basket containing implements for weaving, from pre-Inca graves ; bow covered witb basket-work ; and a necklace of seeds and bird skins of brilliant plumage Bolivia and Ecuador. Ponchos and belts of bright colors ; knitted caps and masks worn for protection against blowing sands of the desert; Jivaro reduced human head; cups and tubes for drinking mate, a substitute for tea ; and models of balsas or native rush rafts. Tierra del Fuego. Spear points of wood and bone ; knife with bottle glass blade ; bows, arrows with bottle-glass points ; feather headdress of a chief ; colored earth used for painting the body ; bas- kets ; and models of bark canoes. WELD HALL. Passing from Ethnology Hall (south west corner) the visitor now enters Weld Hall. On the floor will be found the objects from Japan. This is the most comprehensive collection of Japanese ethnology in the world, while in the neighboring city of Boston will be found at the Museum of Fine Arts the most comprehensive col- 106 VISITOR- S GUIDE TO SALEM lection of Japanese art in the world In the gallery will be found the collec- tions from Asia. Japan (78 sections). Armor and Weapons. Beautifully lacquered stand of bows and arrows; small bows and arrows which bear the same relation to the larger ones as a pis- tol to a gun; quivers of many forms; finely wrought and perforated arrow points; spears with shafts inlaid with mother-of-pearl; many forms of armor and helmets; life size figure of a war- rior dressed in armor; richly mounted swords ; sword and gun cases inlaid with mother-of-pearl ; military flags and sig- nals; torch for burning camphor for signalling at night ; and a brocade badge worn by Imperial soldiers in Yeddo m the revolution of 1867. Pottery. A representative collection of the potteries, of Japan, including the products of 218 different ovens repre- senting 39 provinces. ^ Sacra. Models of Buddhist and Shinto temples and shrines • very f^K f-f n ■^■'''^^^'i'^ ^^^ ^'°^^^^ offerings; votive tab- let beautifully mscnbcd in Sanskrit letter bv a priest of Hase tem- ple; large sword made in 1609— an offering t'o a temple; tablet offer- ing rewards for the apprehension of Christians in 1683; bronze tab- let, 10th century; rosaries of different sects with beads made of pearl, amber, agate, nuts, seeds and woods of various kinds Toys and Games. Foot halls; polo sticks; stilts; a game of shells, beautifully painted about 1680; lacquered toy household furniture used in the dolls festival; bows, arrows and target used in ladies archery; old dolls; go, chess, card and other games Japanese warrior previous to 1868. THE PEABODY MUSEUM 107 Tools of Trades. Series illustrating the making of paper lan- terns ; wood turner's ; ivory carver's ; swordsmith's ; pottery maker's ; carpenter's ; cooper's, and many other trades. House Furnishing. Models of interiors of parlor and kitchen ; kitchen utensils ; vessels for serving food ; lamps and candlesticks ; tray, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, brought back by the first Salem vessel to visit Japan in 1801 ; curious clock indicating time by the movement of a brass butterfly; beautifully lacquered trays, tables, tubs and dressing cases used by the Daimyos ; objects used in the tea ceremony and in wine drinking. Personal Adornment. Life size dressed figures of the Samurai and peasant classes; suits and hats for ceremonial occasions; hunt- ing, etc.; clothmg for summer and winter; shoes of straw; socks with separate place for big toe to hold the cord of the clog; snow shoes ; fans for dances, for every day use and for defence ; hairpins of many varieties; imitation swords worn by doctors and other pro- fessional men. Musical Instruments. Drums for tea house and for military Cc-mp ; stringed instruments — koto, biwa and samisen ; flutes, fifes ; and horns made from large conch shells. Transportation. Norimono and kago, the sedan chairs of the Daimyo and the middle class ; model of a nobleman's bullock cart ; model of a jinrikisha, a two wheeled cart drawn by a man, invented by an American in 1867 ; beautifully lacquered saddles and stirrups; iron stirrups inlaid with silver ; horse armor ; large models of trad- ing junks of the late 18th century. Fishiftg. Models of native fish ; casting nets ; artificial flies ; iron fire pot used in cormorant fishing; blow-gun and darts used in shooting fish. S/wps. Models of pottery shop, lantern shop, hardware shop, etc. ; signs : pieces of old weather-worn wood with lacquered char- acters for dye house and restaurant ; large pipe for a tobacco store ; large writing brush for a stationer ; and a tortoise shell for a worker of shell. 108 visitor's guide to SALEM Asia (58 sections). China. Beautifully carved ivory gIob( containing twenty movable spheres; bird; carved from charcoal and colored : clay f^g ures representing casts, costumes and occupa- tions, mcluding a mandarin and wife giver m 1803 : large figure of Emperor Kin Td oi -Mmg dvnasty; gilt figure of god of - literatutt Irom a fort captured on the C;^nton river" bv (- ommodore James Armstrong, TJ. S. N., in 1854 ; large figure of Wai Ton, the devil-kil- ler; life size figure of a Canton merchant given m 1801 (head and hands carved by Samuel Mclntn-e of Salem) ; life size figure of a mandarin given in T 838; eorgeous mili- tary uniforms; imperial yellow robe taken from the Emperor's apartments in the Sum- mer Palace, Peking, in J 860; very small shoes worn by women wdth compressed feet and casts of the feet ; enormous hats ; pillows of basketry, paper, wood and porcelain- r , , ,2-audiIv painted kites; porcelain tiles from Canton merchant, 1801. ^ aukin : bnck tea used as currencv " opuim smoking outfit and opium; soapstone models of pagodas an^' tombs models of trading unk : war junk and pleasure' boat; bronze mb: cary drums made about A. D. 250; military fla- captured in 1 S 54 ■ lag of rebel chieftain "How Look", given to J^m^' P Cool- a^st' lem merchant at Whampoa, for his protection • an nfth^e mtdicin ^ consisting of deer horn, centipedes, snake skins, lizards. roclS^'IgS teif on'ii?''^''''^! ^^"^'.^^'^ «f ^^^^Wha: sacred books writ- en on palm leaves with an iron stylus; drums and gongs of odd orms; curious reed musical instruments^ foot ball of^ambu and a present gn-en at a funeral of a royal person in the form of a pknt Avith native silver coins in the flowers. ^ THE PEABODY MUSEUM 109 India. Palanquin given in 1803; life size figures of Calcutta mer- chants ; figures representing trades and customs ; model of a market place with more tlian forty figures of people and animals ; stone and bronze figures from temples; beau- tiful alabaster model of the Taj Mehal, built by Shah Jehan as a tomb for his favorite wife ; knives carried by the Goorkhas of Nepal ; curious dagger the blade of which opens disclosing another blade with- in : swivel gun captured by the English at Rangoon, Burma, in 182 7 ; iron shield beau- tifullv inlaid with silver; water pipes or hookahs of clay, inlaid and incrusted with silver; fan made- of woven strips of ivory ; and musi- cal instruments of odd forms. Tibet. Temple vessels of brass and copper ; trumpets of temple band, telescopic and eleven feet in length when extended ; trumpet made of human thigh bone ; drum made from human skulls ; altar bowl of human skull ; rosaries of coral, silver and human bone ; altar lamps for burning butter ; and a block for printing charms against devils. Liu-Kill. Lacquer boxes ; wedding costumes ; wedding hairpins for men ; bow drill ; and large pottery burial urn. Portrait figure of a Calcutta merchant, 1849. no visitor's guide to SALEM I I |bJ m i«* J I ft?!""" f i THE ROPES MEMORIAL. The Ropes Memorial (318 Essex street), was established under the wills of Mary Pickman Ropes and Eliza Orne Ropes and is t^onducted by a board of trustees incorporated in 1912 It was first opened to the public on June 25, 1913. The trust includes the fam- ily mansion, its contents and the surrounding land, together with an ample maintenance fund and a special fund for botanical lectures I he wills provide, with certain restrictions, that the mansion shall be open to visitors who may desire to see the antique furniture, china etc., and that a garden shall be maintained on the premises and that lectures on botany shall be given annually. T T^\^T^^- r' ^"'^^ ^^^"^ ^^1- ^t came into possession of Judge Nathaniel Ropes in 1768 and remained in possession of a Nathaniel Ropes until the death of the fifth Nathaniel in 1893 Judge Ropes was a loyalist and while he lay ill, on March 17 1774 he was the object of an attack by a mob of patriots, and his'death' which occurred the next day, was undoubtedly hastened from this ROPES MEMORIAL, LIBRARIES, ETC. 111 cause. The house contains furniture owned by Judge Ropes and by various decendants of his who have since occupied it, family por- traits, and a special room devoted to the Nanking china ware and Russian glass imported in 1816 for the wedding outfit of Sally Fiske Ropes who married her cousin Joseph Orne and resided here. The Ropes mansion and its contents form an admirable example of the house and equipment of a well-to-do town family in the early years of the nineteenth century. The Garden in the rear of the house is laid out in the old format style with shrubs around the borders and masses of bright floAvers in Che central beds, suitable arbors and seats are provided for rests, rhe lawns at each side are shaded by fine old trees and in the spring the borders are bright with flowering bulbs. The botanical lectures are given each year in January and Febru- ary by eminent instructors and the classes consist chiefly of teachers md students of botany. The class membership is limited and appli- cations must always be made in advance. The house is open to visitors on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday ifternoons from 2 to 5 o'clock, excepting on holidays, from May o December ; the garden is open on afternoons through the sum- ner from 2 to 5 o'clock. No admission fee is charged. SALEM PUBLIC LIBRARY. On this estate, 370 Essex street, formerly stood a house in which •esided Miss Caroline Plummer, the donor of the several Plummer )equests. Capt. John Bertram purchased the estate after the decease )f Miss Plummer, and erected a fine brick dwelling house upon it in 855. Some years after his death, his heirs, Dec. 1, 1887, offered the :state to the city for a public library building, and the offer was ac- cpted. Scarcely any alterations were made in the exterior of the milding, but the first, second and third floors were entirely removed md rebuilt in a much stronger manner. The library was opened to he public for the delivery of books, July 8, 1889, and now contains )3;000 volumes. In 1911-12 a large addition was built in the rear, 112 VISITOR'S GUIDE TO SAT, KM SALEM PUBLIC LIBRARY. containing a fire proof stack room and new reference and work rooms. The building is surromided witli an ample lawn, on which stands the "Bertram Elm," the finest American elm in this region, measuring 19 feet in circumference. In the reading room is a painting by Clement R. Grant, entitled "A Witchcraft Accusation," the gift of Mrs. C. B. Kimball. The library is open week days for the delivery of books from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M. The reading room is open every Aveek day from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M., and on Sundays from 2 P. M'. to 8 P. M. SALEM ATHENAEUM;, LIBRARIES, ETC. 11. The South Branch Library, corner I>afayette street and Ocean avenue, a stucco building with colonial porch, was opened to the public April 12, 1913. The hours are from 2 to 9 P. M. THE SALEM ATHENAEUM. The Athenseum (339 Essex street) was incorporated March 6; 1810. Its character and objects are in many respects like those of the Boston Athenaeum. It was the outgrowth of the "Social Libra- ry" of 1760, and of the "Philosophical Library" of 1781, the nucleus of which was a collection of scientific books captured in the Irish Channel by Capt. Hill, the privateersman. This estate was pur- chased with money bequeathed for public uses to the proprietors of the Athenaeum by Miss Caroline Plummer, who also established the Plummer Farm School and the Plummer Professorship of Morals at Harvard College. The bequest was thirty thousand dollars, and the purpose of the gift was the purchase of a lot of land and the erection of a suitable building for the uses named. She directed that The gift should be recorded in the name of her brother, Ernestus 114 visitor's GUIDE TO SALEM Augustus Plujnmer. Accordingly a site now occupied by the museum building of the Essex Institute was purchased, and a hall was erected in 1857. See chapter on the Essex Institute, page 67. In 1906 the present building, known as Plummer Hall, was erected, the gen- eral appearance of the exterior having been suggested by "Home- wood," a Baltimore, Md., residence, built in 1804. The present structure replaced the church edifice of the New Jerusalem (Sweden- borgian) society, built in 1871. Meetings of this denomination had been held in halls and private houses about Salem since 1840. The library of the Athenaeum contains 30,000 volumes and the number of shareholders is one hundred, but a limited number of persons not proprietors may avail themselves of the privileges of the library by paying an annual subscription. The rooms are oj^en from 9 A. M. to 6 P. M.. daily, except Svuidays and holidays. ESSEX COUNTY LAW LIBRARY. The library of the old Essex Bar Association probably was found- ed soon after its organization in 1831. In 1839, at the time of its removal from the old Washington street Court House, it contained about four hundred vokimes. Seventeen years after, in 1856, when the present Ear Association Avas organized, the law library was taken over and it has steadily grown in size and importance since that time. It now contains over 25,000 volumes and is one of the best in the State and one of the ten best in the United States. Open on Aveek days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. On Saturdays from 9 A. M. to 1 P. M. SALEM CHARITABLE MECHANIC ASSOCIATION. The library of this association, which was organized in 1817, is located at 246^^ Essex street. It contains (1916) 3217 volumes. CHAPTER VII. Public Buildings. Almshouse. As the Neck is entered from lower Essex street, on the left is seen the City almshouse built of brick. The land adjoin- ing is the city farm. The almshouse was erected in 1816, from the plans of Charles Bulfinch, and the next year was visited by President Monroe, as one of the sights of Salem. Cadet Armory. The state armory occupied by the 2d Corps of Independent Cadets, and Co. H, 8th Regt., M. V. M., 136 Essex street, stands on land formerly occupied in part by the residence of Gov. Simon Bradstreet. The present structure was built in 1908, after removing the residence of the late Col. Francis Peabody, which was built in 1820 by Capt. Joseph Peabody, as a residence for his eldest son, Joseph Augustus. In 1890 this house was purchased and a drill shed added. The "Banqueting Hall" was an interesting feature of the house. In this room Prince Arthur of England was entertained at dinner on the occasion of his attending the funeral of George Pea- body, the banker, Feb. 8, 1870. It was elaborately ornamented in carved oak, in the gothic style of the Elizabethan period. At one end a stained-glass window of four panels contained representations of both sides of the Massachusetts seal, the seal of the city of Salem, and the Peabody coat-of-arms. At the opposite end was a fireplace with Dutch jambs surmounted by a heavy chimney-piece of oak elaborately carved and containing niches ornamented with statuettes. The central figure was Queen Victoria, supported by mailed figures at each side. A lion surmounted the whole, with a guardsman and priest on either hand, ^^'hen the house was taken down in 1908, this (115) 116 visitor's GUIDE TO SALEM carved oak finish was preserved and is now utilized in one of the small halls in the new Masonic Temple, Washington street. The drill shed of the present armor}^ is 170 feet long and 86 feet wide. It is also used by Co. H, 8th Regt., M. V. M., which occupies a connecting structure on Brown street, in the rear. In the Cadet Armory are two portraits by J. Harvey Young, who, when a Salem boy, lived on Oliver street, and became a distinguished portrait paint- er. They are deserving of special notice for their historic and ro- mantic, as well as artistic interest. One is the portrait of Colonel Elmer E. Ellsworth, painted from life while he was in Boston and Salem with his celebrated Chicago Zouaves. The companion picture, that of Lieutenant Brownell, was also painted in Boston from life] and in the same uniform he wore at the time he shot Jackson, Ells- worth's assassin, at Alexandria. Va.. May 24, 1861. These two portraits and one other were all that Mr. Young saved from the great fire at Boston in 1872, and soon after he presented them to the Cadets. The Salem Cadet Band, under the leadership of Jean Missud, has gained more than a national reputation. The Salem Brass Band, one of the oldest organizations of this character in the state, has its rooms in Central street. Salem has always been noted for its excellent mil- itary and concert bands, and its orchestras. The leadership of Jerome H. Smith of the old Salem Band, and the connection of Patrick S. Gil- more with the same organization as leader, which he left to take charge of his famous Boston and New York military bands, and later his gigantic jubilee concerts, will always be remembered in Salem. City Hall, 93 Washington street, was built from the surplus reve- nue of the United States treasury distributed in 1337 to the states, and by them among the towns and cities. It cost, when furnished) about $23,000, and is perhaps the only municipal structure in exist- ence paid for out of the United State treasury. In 1876 it was enlarged by an extension in the rear. In front is a plain, but rather effective granite facade, surmounted with a gilded eagle, carved by Mclntire, and originally placed on the fine wooden gateway at the western PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS^ ETC. 117 entrance of the common. This gateway was taken away in 1850. The first floor of the city hall is devoted to the various city otfices. On the second floor the mayor's chamber occupies the entire front of the building and contains a fine copy of the full-length Washhig- ton, painted by Stuart for the state of Rhode Island, which hangs in the capital at Newport. There are also portraits of Leverett Sal- tonstall, the first mayor of the city, Gen. Henry Kemble Oliver, Abiel Abbott Low, and others. Across a small hall from the m.ayor's chamber is the council cham- ber, which remains substantially as to its furniture and appointments, with the exception of its electric lighting, as it was arranged in 1838. On the walls of this well-designed and dignified chamber are pic- tures of interest and merit. Another Washington hangs here, the v/ork of Jane Stuart, copied from a half-length portrait painted by her father. On Washington's left hangs a striking likeness of the Marquis de Lafayette, a copy by Charles Osgood, from a painting by the electrician, S. F. B. Morse. Perhaps the most notable work in the hall is a portrait of President Andrew Jackson, by Maj. R. E. W. Earle, of the general's military family, done in 1833, at the time of his northern tour, in the course of which he visited Salem, and representing him as a younger man and in a much less conventional light than the more familiar likenesses. There are several other por- traits of interest. On the left of the chair hangs a curious old parchment^ dated 1686, upon which is beautifully engrossed in obsolete handwriting a war- ranty deed of all the land in town, from the heirs of Nanepashemet, to the selectmen of Salem, in trust for our people. These Indians tmdertook, for the moderate consideration of twenty pounds, to con- firm and establish the title of the white colonists beyond all cavil, and affixed their marks in shapes which look like bows and arrows, toma- hawks, fish-hooks, samp-bowls, and tobacco pipes. The city hall is open from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. on every week day except holidays. On Saturdays it closes at 2 P. M. The city messen- ger will show the rooms to visitors. ^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM Court Houses. Court House of 1692. In 1672 the first meeting house was removed and its timbers preserved and in 1676 re-erected into a town, court, school and watch house, about four rods westerly of Its original site. The next year the building was removed, being unfinished, to a place nearly opposite Lynde street, in the middle of Washington. T his was the court house from 1679 until 1718 The first story was used for a school room and the second story for 'public meetings and the sessions of the county courts. In this chamber the persons accused of witchcraft were "tried" in 1692. A bronze tablet by order of the city authorities, attached to the side of the Masonic iemple, /O Washington .street, reads as follows:— Nearly opposite this spot stood, in the middle of the street A building devoted, from 1677 until 1718, to municipal and JUDICIAL USES, in IT, IN 1692, WERE TRIED AND CONDEMNED FOR witchcraft MOST OF THE NINETEEN PERSONS WHO SUFFERED DEATH ON THE GALLOWS. GiLES COREY WAS HERE PUT TO TRIAL ON THE SAME CHARGE, AND, REFUSING TO PLEAD, WAS TAKEN AW^Y AND PRESSED TO DEATH. In JANUARY, 1693, TWENTY ONE PERSONS WERE TRIED HERE FOR WITCHCRAFT, OF WHOM EIGHTEEN WERE ACQUITTED AND THREE CONDEMNED, BUT LATER SET FREE, TOGETHER WITH ABOUT 150 ACCUSED PERSONS, IN A GENERAL DELIVERY WHICH OCCURRED IN MAY. (See chapter on Witchcraft, page 11). Court House and Town House of the Revolution, Washington street. When the old court house, in which the witchcraft trials took J'-place, was discontinued for such use, in 1718, a new town and court house was built just westerly of the present First church in what is now a portion of Washington street, the front of the buildina bein^ toward Essex street. It was fifty feet long, thirty feet wide, and tweiv ty feet stud. The first story was the town house, and the second story the court room. It was destined to be the theatre of some of the most important events m the history, not only of Salem, but of the coun- try. A dinner was given to Sir William Pepperrell in this town house July 4, 1746. In it the General Court was held in 1728 and 1729; the citizens in public town meeting denounced the stamp act PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS^ ETC. 119 of 1765, and the tax on tea in 1769; the General Court was con- vened here in June, 1774, and on the seventeenth it chose delegates to the first Continental Congress, in defiance of Governor Gage, this being the last General Assembly of the Province of the Massachu- setts Bay. General Gage lived during that summer in the Hooper house, in Danvers, only three miles away. August 12th a regiment of British regulars came from Boston by water, and the next day landed on Winter island. Aug. 24, hearing of an obnoxious town meeting that was being held in the town house for the purpose of choosing delegates to attend a patriotic convention at Ipswich, the governor ordered a detachment of the troops to break up the meeting. Eighty soldiers were despatched, stopping at the foot of Essex street to load, but when they reached the spot where the Essex Institute now stands, they learned that the business of the meeting was over and the voters had dispersed, and they returned to their encampment on the island. September S, the governor called a meeting of the Gen- eral Court at the town house for October 5th. Believing that imme- diate danger from the people here was over, the troops were ordered back to Boston. Sept. 18th, the governor found that he had been mistaken in his idea of the submission of the people, and so recalled the order for the meeting of the General Court. In spite of the re- call, however, over ninety representatives had gathered on the day preceding the date for the opening of the court. The leading patri- ots, Samuel Adams,. John Elancock, Benjamin Lincoln, and others, were here. On that day a chest of tea had been taken from a man who had brought it from Boston, and in the presence of over two hundred people it was burned in the middle of Court street, now Washington. At three o'clock the next morning fire was discovered in a warehouse belonging to Col. Peter Frye, a loyalist, who lived on Essex street, where the Perley block now stands. His house, the meeting-house of the Tabernacle church, which stood next easterly of the warehouse, and dwelling-houses, barns, stores, warehouses, and other buildings, extending to Town House square and along Wash- ington street, were destroyed. The town house caught fire, the flames being extinguished bv the strenuous efforts of Marblehead ^■^^ visitor's guide to SALEM firemen but not until the paint and cornices had been burned off and tre"d?n:^t??'' 'i^- ^'^-!;^^^- ™^^ ^^- -i- °f thetuildings ^ere still hot and smoking, the representatives convened in the town g v^rC^ ^^'^"^^ ^'' ^^^ -t ^f resp^cEtr^h^ gmernment, for the governor to come and administer their oaths He did not appear, and they met again the next mornin^ and ortan ludon's ' Th'"""^ Congress and chose a committee to dC up res" lutions The next day, Friday, October 7, 1774 thev again met adopted the resolutions, and adjourned to toncord Thesf resoTu ' ion , as printed m the Essex Gazette the next Tuesday, may be seen ?n puttw'it •?/'•'"''• '^'" "^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^--^1 -'' of the Prov Se m putting Itself m open antagonism to the British government The chairman was John Hancock, afterwards president^of thrContine tal Congress and first signer of the Declaration of Independence The secretary was Benjamin Lincoln, afterward General T^nn.l uy lue ciT_\, oears the following inscription: Three rods west of this spot stood, from 1718 untii 17«^ THE Town House. Here Governor Burnet convened the gen' ERAL court in 1728 AND 1729. A TOWN MEE^ heed HERE IN 1765 PROTESTED AGAINST THE STAMP ACT. AND ANOTHER Tn ^760 DENOUNCED THE TAX ON TEA. Here MEt/ IN 1774 THE LAST cH GATES Tj^THEF'^.^'r"^'^^"" ^^ GOVERNOR GaGE, CHOSE D.LF: aIJS ^^ Continental Congress. The house of house, ro MEET AT SaLEM, WAS ORDERED BY THE GOVERNOR mrr THIS. BY LATER PROCLAMATION. HE REFUSED TO RECOGNIZE In CON OCTO^FR^l^r""'""^' ™^ "^"^^^^ "^^ -- TH?S TOWN house" OCTOBER 5, AND AFTER ORGANIZING RESOLVED THEMSELVES TNrn A PUBLIC BUILDINGS,. SCHOOLS^ HALLS,. ETC. 121 The Court House axd Town House built in 1785, was erected in the middle of Washington street, nearly opposite the Tabernacle church. It was an admired work of Mclntire, and oil paintings of it are at the Essex Institute. The construction of the tunnel under the street, in 1839, necessitated its removal. Here Washington was pre- sented to the townspeople, Oct. 29, 1789, while on his eastern tour. CUUki houses on federal .SlREKi. The Court Hoi ses on Federal Street. The old granite court house, built in 1839-1841, was opened for public use, March 21, 1842. It is one hundred and five feet long, fifty-five feet broad, and two stories in height. Its four columns, tAvo at each end, are of the Cor- inthian order They are granite monoliths, and their flutes and capi- tals are said to be copied from those in the Tower of the Winds at Athens. Each column is three feet, ten inches in diameter and thirty-two feet high, including the base and capital. The walls are of solid granite, and all the floors are supported bv brick arches. The ^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM ZJifi building was about $80,000. The architect was Richard Bond of Boston and the principal contractors were Samuel S. Stand- ley and Henry Russell, Jr., masons, of Salem. From the time of the Salem ^TlV"^'';'' ^''^ ?!,"' '^^"'^"^§ "^^ '''' ^^^^ ^«-t house in Salem The Courts were held m the upper story, while the lower was devo ed to county offices. This court house was remodeled in 1889 and the whole lower floor devoted to the registry of deeds and the second story to the probate office and court room. In 1910 the hiter- lor of the buildmg was remodeled to accommodate the county offices -Ihe land adjoining this building was purchased in 1857 and a brick court house built thereon in 1861. The building was formally dedicated to the use of the courts, Oct. 3, 1862. Enoch FulleTwas T^' 1 R«7 Ti!' '"^ ^'"^'''^ ^^"^^ ""^ ^^'^''^^' Towle the contractors! In 1887, the construction of an additional fireproof buildina was commenced m connection with the brick court house. It was finished n 1889, at an expense of $147,1 15.31 This addition, while annexed the court house of 1861, overshadows it both in size and architec- ural pretensions. It was dedicated Feb. 2, 1889, and contains on the n^H h ?J a/^ourt room and the large and commodious rooms occu- pied by the clerk of courts. In the second story are two court rooms and the spacious room provided for the law library. On entering it cZl' Tr\'T"^ ■'"''^' ' ^''^'^^'' -^^ '^''''^' that, like one in the castle of Chillon, it seems to dominate the whole room. Portraits of distinguished members of the bar hang around the room h.f^t'Z!''V-?v^'^' ^^T^'' '^ Chief-Justice Lemuel Shaw, painted by the late William M. Hunt, hangs over the judge's bench in the fiont court room, and is considered a masterpiece of that distinguished artibt. But the attraction in this court house, which brings tS it an- nually thousands of visitors from all parts of this country, as well as many from foreign lands, is to be found in the office of the clerk of the courts on the ground floor (entrance at the end of the passac^e- M-ay between the two court houses). Here the curious may^fiid t manuscript, all the testimony preserved in the famous witchcraft trials, and the original death warrant of Bridget Bishop, with the return of the sheriff thereon, which return, serious and soLm as the PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. u: business was, provokes a smile when we read that he "caused her to be hanged by the neck till she was dead and buried" ; and find that, as if realizing that he was getting a little idtra vires, he has drawn his pen through the words "and buried". Here also may be seen the "witch pins," which, it is said, the afflicted ones claimed were used by the accused as among the instruments of torture. The clerk's office is open from 8 A. M. to 5 P. M., except on Sun- days and legal holidays. On Saturdays it closes at 1 P. M. The fine granite building occupied by the registry of deeds and probate court, was opened for use July 31, 1909. Charles H. Black- all of Boston, was the architect. The cost, includmg the site, was $441,469.16. . , . ^ .^ ,. There is not much to interest the general visitor m this building, but the antiquarv and genealogist delight to pore over the old records of wills and deeds, dating from 1640, disclosing many a clue to old family estates and relationships. The registry of deeds and probate otKice are open every day except legal holidays and Sundays from 8.30 A. M. to 5 P. M., except Sat- urdays, when they close at 1 P. ISt. Custom House, 178 Derby street, is at the head of Derby wharf, one of the two largest and most important wharfs in Salem during the period of the town's greatest commercial prosperity. It was built of brick in 1818 and 1819 and is chief Iv interesting from its association with Nathaniel Hawthorne and Gen. James Miller of "Lundy Lane" fame. Upon this site formerly stood the homestead of George Crown- inshield, father of Benjamin, member of Congress and Secretary of the Navy ; and of Jacob, member of Congress, who declined the offer of a like distinction. The Crowninshield house had pilasters m front and was crowned with a cupola, on the top of which was a vane in the form of a merchant holding at arm's length a spy-glass, and scanning the horizon for his returning argosies. A committee of merchants selected the spot in behalf of the government ; and Perley Putnam and John Saunders were the contractors. The cost was $36,- 000.00. There are pine boards measuring twenty-six inches in width in some of the dados. Slates of rare quality and dimensions were im- 124 visitor's guide to SALEM CUSTOM HOUSE, BUILT IN 1819. rorted from Wales, and flagstones for the sidewalks from Potsdam, IV i. Ihe bmldmg contains a portrait in pastel of Joseph Hiller the first collector under the Constitution, 1789-1801. Gen. Tames Mil- i«in c ° '?^- "^''"'^^' ^^^'''" '^'^'^ *^ collector here from 1825 to 1849. Since his time the interest manifested in the Custom House centers mainly in the fact that, from 1846, some years of Nathaniel Hawthorne s service in the revenue department were spent here as !r''?'°L'?^ customs, in the southwesterly room on the first floor of the building. The stencil with which he marked inspected goods N Hawthorne 'is still shown, but the desk on which he wrote will be found at the Essex Institute. Many of the characters and scenes depicted in the sketch of the custom house in the "Introduction to the bcarlet Letter, were realities; but the manuscript was as fictitious as PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS^ ETC. 125 Surveyor Pue's connection with the story. The room in which tradi- tion says the scarlet letter was discovered is that in the rear of the col- lector's private office on the second floor of the easterly side of the building, and was in Hawthorne's day, and for some years after, an unfurnished chamber filled with old papers deposited in boxes and barrels. The old records before the Revolution are missing. They were dispersed or perished in the great fire, Oct. 6, 1774, which con- sumed the building then used as a custom house. The port of Salem no longer preserves its separate identity and has its own collector. On July 1, 1913, it was merged with the port of Boston, with a deputy- collector. The Custom House is open to visitors from nine o'clock in the forenoon until three o'clock in the afternoon, except Saturdays, when it is closed at tAvelve o'clock. It is not open on holidays or Sundays. See chapter on Hawthorne, page 6o. In the old days, when the word Salem was the synofiyin for every- thing brilliant and heroic in a commercial way, the Custom House was a movable establishment, the office followed the collector from house to house wherever he might happen to reside, and if he chanced to be a bachelor and a victim of the boarding-house habit, a shipmas- ter setting out on a voyage could not conjecture where it would be found upon his return. This practice continued until this Custom House was finally provided in 1819. During all these years names now famous were added to the roll of collectors and surveyors. Wil- liam Fairfax was collector when he left Salem for Virginia to inherit a peerage and to found a family connected with the Washingtons. William Hathorne, the romancer's ancestor, was collecting a tonnage tax in gun powder in 1667. The names of Browne, Lynde, Bowditch, Veren, Palfray, Hiller and Lee grace the list, and James Cockle, upon whose petition for a warrant to search for smuggled molasses James Otis made his memorable plea against writs of assistance, was at the time collector of Salem. In the museum of the Essex Insti- tute may be seen a large wooden eagle, carved by Samuel Mclntire, that formerly decorated the entrance of the building at 6 Central street, when it was used as the custom house in 1805. ^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM Hospital Highlaiid Ave. The Salem Hospital was founded in 1873 by Capt John Bertram. The hospital at first was a large brick buildnig 31 Charter street; formerly a private residence, the birth- place of the ate Hon. Stephen H. Phillips, attorney-general of Mass- acnusetts and of Hawaii, The present structure was erected in 1916- 1917 largely as a result of the great fire of 1914 which partly de- stroyed the extensive additions to the first building. Visitors are ad- mitted on any day from two to three o'clock in the afternoon On the Charter street estate lived Capt. Richard More, the boy of int62()'' '"^ ''''"'' """ ^^"^ "Mayflower" with the Pilgrims to Pl>iiiouth Jails. The first jail stood just westerly of the present First Church buildmg, and when the court and town house was constructed in 1676 It was removed into what was then Benjamin Felton's garden, a few feet easterly from the present street car office and was finally taken away m 1684, when the new jail was built on what is now Federal street. Site of the Witchcraft Jail. At 2 Federal street, corner of St Peter was built m 1684, the jail in which the persons accused of VMtchcraft m 1692 were confined, and from which the condemned were taken to the place of execution. In 1763 that jail was succeed- ed by a new one, on the site of what is now 4 Federal street Upon the construction of the new jail, in 1813, this building was remodeled into a dwelling house, which is now the residence of the late Abner 1.. Uoodell. It is said that some of the timbers of the jail of 169'^ were used in the construction of the jail of 1763, and therefore are now existing m the preseiit house. County Jail and House of Correction. The present jail a granite structure, is at the corner of St. Peter and Bridge streets The origmal part was erected in 1813, and the extension, toward St Peter street in 1884-5. It is one of the most substantial and best designed jails in the state. Visitors are admitted from 9 to 11 A M "' mIT.^ '\^ f- ^'•' '-^"'P' °^' Saturdays, Sundavs, and holidays: Market. A few steps along Essex street from Town House square bring the visitor to the open paved area on the right, known PUBLIC BUILDINGS.. SCHOOLS, HALLS., ETC. 127 as the Market. This space extends from Essex to Front street, and at the time of the Revolution it Avas the homestead of Col. William Browne, having been in the familv for more than a century. Colo- nel Browne was a tory, holding the office of mandamus councillor, when, on Aug. 24, 1774, he entertained Governor Gage and his civil and military staif, while Timothy Pickering, summoned by the sheriff into their presence, kept His Excellency so long in an "indecent pas- sion," that the town-meeting, which the Governor had come to dis- perse, had transacted its business and adjourned without day. Troops had been ordered up from the Neck, Town House square was crow-d- ed with people, and bloodshed seemed imminent. Later, Colonel Browne's estate was confiscated, and in 1 784 it was conveyed by the State to Elias Hasket Derby, a successful merchant of the town. In 1799 Mr. Derby removed the residence of Colonel Browne, and erect- dd upon its site, at a cost of eighty thousand dollars, the most sump- tuous mansion ever built in Salem.* It Avas occupied only a iew months, and not long after Mr. Derby's decease was closed and offered for sale. No purchaser appeared for so costly an establish- ment, and the heirs conveyed it to the town to be used for a public market forever. f The grounds were finely terraced and beautifully laid out, but when the estate came into the possession of the town the mansion house was taken down and the land devoted to the purpose for w^iich it had been given. The area was named Derby square, in honor of the former owner. A market house was erected at an ex- pense of about twelve thousand dollars. The market, located on the first floor, was opened Nov. 25, 1816, and ever since has been leased for meat and provision stalls. The second story was finished as a hall, and always has been known as the Town Hall. ToAvn meet- ings were held there until the incorporation of Salem as a city, in 1836, and since that time it has been used for public gatherings. On Saturdays the carts of produce and provision dealers line the pave- ment in front of the Market house. * A picture of this house is in the second edition of Felt's Annals of Salem, and its plans, made by Mclntire, are in the possession of the Essex Institute. t A public fish market is now located at 25 Front street, opposite the Mar- ket, on a portion of the original estate. 128 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM THE MARKET IlUUSi. AND MARKET SQUARE The Town Hall was first opened to the public, July 8, 1817, on the occasion of the visit of President Monroe, who came from Mar- blehead to Salem on that day. He was magnificently received at the new Town Hall in the evening. Police Station, 17 Central street, was erected in 1913, John M. Gray, architect. Here is the office of the city marshal. The district court room is on the second floor. The court consists of a justice, two special justices and a clerk. Criminal sessions are held daily at 9 A. M., and civil sessions on Wednesdays at 10 A. M. PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS^ HALLS,, ETC. 129 Post Office, 118 Washington street, occupies the first floor of the building which is leased by the Post Office department. The at- tention of the stranger will at once be attracted to this building (erected in 1883), by the colonial character of its architecture, which is also well carried out in its next-door neighbor, the Peabody build- ing. Over the main entrance to the Post Office is a fine reproduction of the United States coat of arms, and over the southern door on Washington street one of the city seal. The Post Office is open on week days from 6.45 A. M., till 10 P. M. Railroad Station (Boston and Maine R. R.). The railroad was built from Boston to Salem in 1838, and was extended to Ipswich the next year upon the completion of the tunnel. This tunnel passes under Washington street, beginning directly in front of the station, and is six hundred and fifty feet long. The site occupied by the station was formerly the central docks of the South river, and the tide now ebbs and flows through a conduit. The original building was a small wooden structure, on which was hung an old convent bell captured at the siege of Port Royal. In the earlier times, for a few minutes before the departure of each train, the bell was rung by a veteran of the War of 1812. The ticket office and waiting rooms were in an old red warehouse across the way. The present station was built from sketches made by Capt. D. A. Neal, an early president of the road, in the architectural style of a structure that attracted his attention in England. It has two high granite towers, and a wide granite-arched entrance, which suggest the medieval gates of the older cities of Europe. It was erected in 1847, and, with the exception of the front, was rebuilt in 1882, the wooden portion of the structure having been destroyed by fire on the night of April 6th of that year. Schools* Bentley School, 50 Essex street, a grammar and pri- mary school for girls, and was built of brick in 1861. The old East Church edifice stood between Hardy and Bentley streets, on Essex, * There are fourteen primary and grammar schools in the city and three larse parochial schools. See City Directory for detailed information. ^^'^ visitor's guide to SALEM just opposite the schoolhouse, and the bell from that meetin- house fon^'/"TP.^^°^\^P?^ '^ states, was cast by "Revere & Sons, Boston.' b and nngs daily from tJie tower of the schoolhouse. The roost- er that lifts his head above it was from the same meethig house, and If tradition may be relied upon, still contains, sealed up in its capa- cious crop an old hymn book and some of Doctor Bentlev's sermons High School Upon a sightly location on Highland avenue is the new High School building, erected in 1909 at a cost of $356,068 - 00. Messrs. Killam and Hopkins of Boston, were the architects It f ""TT"^^^^' °''^'' °"^ thousand pupils. There are thirty teachers At the head of Broad street are several large brick buildings The most western is the old High School building erected in 1856 and remodeled inl871. The building on the corner of Broad and Sum- ""'i/cf '''/'''"'f^'' ^^'' ^^^^^ ^°^"^^^ School building, was built q"! 1 /' ^ P^^^^^hased by the city in 1897, having been used by the State for forty years for a Nonnal school. These buildings are now used for school administration purposes, for the manual training school and the evening schools. The middle brick building on Broad street IS the Oliver primary school, formerly the old Latin school It was built m 1818, and remodeled in 1869, 1878 and 1884 • fif' ''''•^^i''T,J^?:''^- ^" ^^^^' ^ b"^k school-house was built m the middle of ^^ashmgton street, about opposite Church street It was removed inl 785. Before it stood the whipping post. A picture of It may be seen at the Essex Institute State Normal School. A State Normal school has been located m Salem since 1854. Until 1896 it occupied the brick building at n'i«Q?7«o ^■'"'^"^'l ^"^ ^'°"^ '''''''■ ^^' "^^ building erected m 1893-1890, is at the junction of Lafavette street and Lorina ave- nue. It covers a ground area of eleven thousand square feet Facing northward, it is one hundred and eightv feet in length from east to west, and nas two wings, each one hundred and forty feet from north to south It stands so high and is so large that it fairly dominates the southern section of the city. The architect was J. Philip Rinn ot Boston, and the cost was two hundred thousand dollars On Lor mg avenue is the Training School building, having kindergarten PUBLIC BUILDINGS^ SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. 131 primary and grammar grades and providing instruction for nearly five hundred pupils from among the children of the neighborhood. These training schools are public schools and under the control of the school committee of Salem In the second story is a hall 60 by 80 feet. The school is supplied with a fine scientific apparatus, including a telescope of fair power, and a library of four thousand volumes. Tu- ition is free to residents of the state who intend to become teachers in its public schools. In the various halls there are portraits, busts and statues, and among the mural decorations are reliefs from the Par- thenon frieze ; the frieze of the prophets, by John S. Sargent ; and other works of art. Town House. See Court Houses. HALLS AND THEATRES. Academy Hall, 157 Essex street, was built in 1885, and opened Feb. 12, 1886. It has a seating capacity of three hundred and fifty and is one of the finest lecture and concert rooms of its size in the state. It is the propertv of the Trustees of the Peabody Museum. Ames Memorial liall. 288 Essex street, in the Y. M. C. A. building, was erected in 1898. a memorial to George L. Ames, a benefactor of the association. It seats 800 persons, and is principally used for concerts and lectures. Empire Theatre, 285 Essex street, built 1906, seats nearly 1500. On this site formerly stood a house in which, Dec. 16, 1751, was born George Cabot, the distinguished Federalist and president of the Hart- ford Convention. This was also the site of Mechanic Hall, erected of brick in 1839, and destroyed by fire, Feb. 4, 1905. For a half cen- tury it was the principal hall in the city for theatricals, having a seat- ing capacity of about eleven hundred. In it, from time to time, oc- curred many of the most notable gatherings, political and social, in Salem. Federal Theatre. 24 Federal street, was built in 1912 and seats nearly 1 500 persons. 132 visitor's guide to salem Franklin Building. This large brick block, on the corner of Es- sex street and Washington square, is owned by the Salem Marine So- ciety, the oldest charitable organization in the city. The society was formed in 1776, "to relieve such of their Members as through mis- fortune at Sea, or otherwise, or by Reason of Old Age or Sickness, stand in Need of Relief, & the necessitous Families of deceased Mem- bers ; and also to communicate in Writing, to be lodged with the So- ciety, the Observations thev make at Sea of any Matters which may render Navigation, particularly on this Coast, easier and safer." It came into possession of this estate about 1833, by the bequest of Capt. Thomas Perkins, a member of the society. The building was thrice damaged by fire, being totally destroyed in 1860, but imme- diately rebuilt. The lower story is used for business purposes. The Marine Society occupies the lower room on the corner of Washing- ton square, next to the Common, as an office and reading-room for its members, now numbering about fifty. There are portraits in the office, which is open week days, and in a large album an interesting collection of portraits of members of the society. Hamilton Hall. Across Chestnut street from the South church is Hamilton Hall, owned by the South Building Corporation. It was built in 1805 and named in honor of Alexander Hamilton, who bad visited Salem, where he had many of his warmest admirers. This hall has since been the center of Salem's social activity and in it have been held the assemblies and many notable anniversary dinners and celebrations. Pickering was entertained at an elegant dinner in this hall in 1808, Bainbridge in 1813, and Lafayette, Aug. 31, 1824. Now and Then Hall, 102 Essex street, connected with the club house of the Association, seats about 900 persons. The Salem Theatre, 2 59 5^ Essex street, was originally the brick meeting-house of the Barton Square, or Independent church, w^hich separated from the First church in 1824, and built this edi- fice the same year. The society, which is Unitarian in belief, united v/ith the Second or East church, and the building was transformed into the Salem Theatre, which was opened in 1901. Its seating capacity is about thirteen hundred. PUBLIC BUILDINGS, SCHOOLS, HALLS, ETC. 133 Washington Hall was in the upper story of the Stearns build- ing, 101 Washington street, which was erected in 1792, on the site of the widow Pratt's tavern of many gables. It was opened Feb. 22, 1793, the birthday of Washington which marked his second assump- tion of the presidency, with an elegant dinner, an oration by Bentley, and great rejoicings at the French Revolution then just announced. It was a curious survival of the antique assembly-room, with fire- places, wooden wainscoting, and music gallery.* This quaint hall was, for a number of years after it was opened, a popular place for parties and other gatherings, and later it became a theatre. It is now gone, and a new building has been erected upon the site. * The balcony rail of this music gallery is now preserved in the museum of the Essex Institute. NORTH CHURCH. SOUTH CHURCH, Burned in 1903. ST PETER'S CHURCH. SECOND CHURCH. CHAPTER VIII. Churches. Advent Christian Church, 127 North street, was erected in 1890, the society having been organized in 1875. Calvary Baptist Church, corner of Bridge and Lemon streets, is a wooden edifice, erected in 1904. The church was formed in 1870, and their house was formerly what is now the synagogue of the Sons of Jacob, corner of Essex and Herbert streets. Crombie Street Church ( Congregational ) , 7 Crombie street, is an offshoot from the once iiourishing Howard street, or Branch church. Rufus Choate was on its first board of trustees. The plain brick building was erected in 1828 for a theatre. As such, it had a short-lived success, and the building was dedicated to church pur- poses Nov. 22, 1832. In 1892, extensive repairs and alterations were made and several memorial windows added. First Baptist Church. 56 Federal street, was organized in 1804, and erected its meeting house in 1806, which was remodeled in 1868. The tower contains a clock and one of the largest bells in the city, which was cast in 1865. by H. N. Hooper of Boston. First Church, (Unitarian). The corner where the First church now stands was the site of the first meeting house in Salem and also of the several intervening meeting houses, the present being the fourth. Originally Trinitarian-Congregational, now Unitarian, the church was formed in the summer of 1629, being the first Congregational so- ciety organized in America. The meeting-house was built in 1635 or before and was enlarged in 1639, the original contract, in Governor Endecott's handwriting, for this enlargement, is a part of the town (135) 136 visitor's guide to salem records and may be seen in the office of the city clerk, at City Hall. It bears the signatures of Governor Endecott, Roger Conant, Wil- liam Hathorne, John Woodbury and Lawrence Leach, and John Pickering the contractor. The second meeting-house was erected in 1671, the third in 1718, and the fourth and present one in 1826. This was remodeled in 1875. Two marble slabs at the head of the stairs leading to the auditorium, which is on the second floor, give the historv of the church, the names of its pastors, and their terms of service. . The main entrance is on Essex street, and at its side a bronze tablet, placed bv the city on the outer wall, is inscribed as follows :• — Here stood from 1634 until 1673 The First Meeting House ERECTED IN SaLEM. No STRUCTURE WAS BUILT EARLIER FOR CON- GREGATIONAL WORSHIP BY A CHURCH FORMED IN AMERICA. It WAS OCCUPIED FOR SECULAR AS WELL AS RELIGIOUS USES. In IT PREACHED IN SUCCESSION^ I. Roger Williams; II. Hugh Peters; IIL Ed- ward NoRRis; IV. John Higginson. It avas enlarged in 1639 and was last used for WORSHIP IN 1670. The First Church in Salem^ gathered July and August, 1629. has had no place ot WORSHIP BUT this SPOT. Previous to 1870 this society was using an organ inscribed in large letters on two plates upon its front, "John Avery. London. Fecit, 1800." This was considered a fine organ. The one now in use was built by Hutchings, Plaisted & Co., in 1875. The society possesses many interesting relics, including the original earlv records and sev- eral pieces of old silver used in the communion service, but unfor- tunatelv several of the oldest and most interesting were melted down in 1815 and made into a basin. Among those now preserved are five cups, the gift of William Browne, about 1700, a cup from Sarah Higginson in 1720, one from Mary Walcott in 1729. and a flagon from Samuel Browne in 1731. First Church of Christ Scientist, 16 Lynde street. This society was organized in 1896 and dedicated in 1911 its present building which originally was the parish house of the First Church. Salem. CHURCHES 137 Friends Meeting-House, corner of South Pine and Warren streets, built of brick in 1832, was destroyed in the great fire of 1914 and rebuilt in 1916. Between the sites of the houses numbered 375 and 377 Essex street stood the first meeting-house of the Salem Society of Friends. They held services in Salem as early as 1657, but thir meeting-house was not erected until 1688. It was built by the famous Quaker, Thomas Maule, upon his own land. He deeded the building and land to the Friends in 1690, and, in 1718, when they erected a new meeting-house, they reconveyed the old house and land to him. It then became a part of a dwelling-house. The original frame is now preserved by the Essex Institute in the rear of its Museum Building. The second meeting-house of this societv was built in 1718 where the Friend's cemetery may now be found, at 396 V^ Essex street. Grace Church (Episcopal). 381 Essex street, was organized in 1858. Its present modest church edifice was built in the same year, and consecrated by Bishop Manton Eastburn. The church was en- larged in 1889. It contains a beautiful pulpit of carved oak, a fine example of church architecture, which bears on a silver plate the fol- lowing inscription : "Presented to Grace Church in memory of John Bertram, by his daughters, J. M. E. and A. B. W., December, 1883." The oak for this pulpit was brought from the Isle of Jersey, the birthplace of Captain Bertram. Directlv over the alter is a fine stained-glass window, placed there, in 1892, by the contributions of devoted friends, in memory of Mrs. James P. Franks, the widely es- teemed wife of the rector. Tiie window was designed by Henry Holiday, R. A., of London, and its beauty gains an additional inter- est from the fact that it was selected by the late Bishop Phillips Brooks while visiting London. There is, also, a beautiful marble tab- let to the memory of Dr. John Francis Tuckerman, for many years a vestryman of this church, and director of its music. The organ was built by the Hook-Hastings Company. The present rector. Rev. James P. Franks, has filled the office since 1870. Howard Street or Branch Church, formerly located where the Prescott schoolhouse now stands. This societv was organized Dec. 138 visitor's guide to SALEM rence and Lieutenant T nr^i^ fl? A, ^^i^^ams of Captain Law- the engaged w re broilt^t "^ y^'^'^^r^'^^ -ho were killed in PhilHp"s)%vha f and thence t.lP . T' ^'f ^'''^'^ ^' India (now • was held wit^'reTt poniD and T% f '.'^' ^^'''' *^ ^"^^^^^^ becam, famous': T^oX"! in 's.l"'^^ ^ " '"^''^^^ ^^^^ their houses, so hioh ran artt Li u ^""'^ ""^^'^ ^^^ ^^e of B, Cheever/after^tro?^^^^^^^^ aifd'charTe's Tt'^' ^^T their freedon to h s effors and Re"' 1 T'l ^'""^'^^ ^^^^^^^ °-^^ John G. Whittier^f Sr^^^S^-;^ ::'^X:^^ -^ The communion plate of the church wn. .nVi I !i memory. vided among the remaining nie'res a' d J- ^^^^^^^ ^'°?''^' ^" tower of what is now ^f Tni., . tJ ' ^ "^^^ removed to the where it is I i^u e •7•K^y'^^^'"P^^■^^^hurch (St. Peter street), meeting house was; n 186^ r^tX^VV T"^""^' ^^'' '^ remodeled and used bv the Methodises ^"'"'^' "^"^^ '' '''' ^^^^^ War^?::^^. ^S'^°-, Church ^^ (Roman Catholic), itecture. It was erected in V 7 /'V' ^'!''^''''^^^ ^tyle of arch- and a tower added in IS. Oh -^ '^''^''"'''^ "^ ^^^8' ^^d remodeled seating capacit;'of'thT;tef;J^"^^^ /t ^as a m the city, weighing three thousa. I't ril^dJed and fift " '"''T the tone s in the Icev of P Tf "-"u JJunarea and fifty pounds; of Boston, and :i^L se^l J^^' ^^ ""'j^^ ^'^^^, Bdl Poundrv, late Conception Parish to the S.c el H ' t '"''''^i'^' ^""^^^cu- Mary's." The or-^in in th. \ f .''^' ^"^^ named "St. Boston. ^ "' '^'' '^'''''^' '''' '^"ilt by W. H. Ryder of Roman Catholic services were hplrl i,i QoI > ^90, b. Rev. .T„„„ T„a,e.. Z TC '^^^Z^'l^l ^ ^^^^^^ CHURCHES 139 was built at the eastern corner of Mall and Bridge streets in 1821. For twenty-five years this was the only Roman Catholic church in Essex County, and the mother parish of all this region. This build- ing was occupied until 1857, and in 1877, being considered unsafe, it was taken down and the lot sold. Lafayette Street Methodist Episcopal Church, 296 Lafayette street. This society was organized in 1840 and formerly occupied a wooden ediiice at the corner of Lafayette and Harbor streets which was destroyed during the great fire. The present attractive stone edifice with the parsonage attached Avas dedicated March 5, 1911. North Church (Unitarian) was formed by a separation from the •First Church in 1772, their first meeting house being built that 5'ear on the southern corner of Lynde and North streets. The present beautiful granite edifice, at 314J'2 Essex street, retired behind lofty elms and clad in summer with its drapery of woodbine, was built in 1835, G. J. F. Bryant being the architect. Some interior orna- mentation was added in 1848. It is after the style of an old Eng- lish parish church, and the excellent gothic interior finish and high- backed pews are well in keeping. The church was built largely under the supervision of the late Francis Peabody, whose love of the beautiful in architecture has left a good influence in Salem in many ways. On the walls are tablets to the memory of Thomas Barnard, John Emery Abbot. John Brazer, and Edmund B. Willson, minis- ters of the church, and Judge Lincoln F. Brigham, and, in the minister's room, a memorial gift of Edward H. Payson, is another tablet inscribed to the memory of the donor's wife. A stained glass window, by John LaFarge of New York, was placed in the church in 1892. It is inscribed: "In memory of Francis and Martha Pea- body: By their children." and shows full-length figures of Faith and Charity. Another window was added in 1894, the work of the Tififanys of New York, consecrated to the memory of Martha But- trick Willson, the wife of the late pastor. The organ, built by Hook and Hastings, is an exceedingly fine instrument, and the society has many interesting cups and vessels used in the communion service, which date from the organization of the church, two of them being from the hand of Paul Revere. 140 VISIT0R''S GUIDE TO SALEM The North church was set off from the First church in 1772, and its first meeting-house was b;iilt in that year on the southern corner of North and Lynde streets. This was superseded by the present edifice of the society on Essex street, in 1835. For twenty-five years it was used for manufacturing purposes. The house now standing on the spot was once the residence of Justice Otis P. Lord of the supreme judicial court. St. James Church (Roman Catholic). The wooden structure, 160 Federal street, built ^in 1849 to accommodate the increasing congregations which overcrowded St. Mary's church, was occupied until 1893, when it was succeeded by the present conspicuous brick edifice, 152 Federal street, which was rebuilt in 1900, and has di seating capacity of 1300. This structure is 178 feet long and the tower is 200 feet in height. Nine large paintings adorn the walls. The organ, the largest and most powerful in the county, was built by R. Midmar & Son of Brooklyn, N. Y. St. Joseph's Church (French Catholic), 181 Lafayette street, was organized in 1873. Its first church, erected in 1884, and dedi- cated Aug. 25, 1885, was of Avood, and seated one thousand persons. The large organ, built in 1870 by J. H. Wilcox & Co., was origi- nally in Mechanic Hall. A large new edifice of brick, with two im- posing towers, was dedicated Sept. 7, 1913, and destroyed during the great fire. Its walls were partly taken down and in remodelled form it is now used for church purposes. It also acconmiodates th€ parochial school. St. John the Baptist Church (Polish Catholic), St. Peter, opposite Federal street. This originally was the church of the Second Baptist Society, having separated from the First Baptist So- ciety in 1825, and built the present meeting house the next year. The building was raised and remodeled in 1877. In the tower is the bell formerly on the Howard street church. In 1903, this Polish Catho- lic society was organized and on the consolidation of the Second Baptist Society with the First Baptist in 1909, purchased the preseni edifice the following j^ear. CHURCHES 141 St. Peter's Church (Episcopal). The present English gothic church of stone, occupied by this ancient Episcopal society, at the corner of Brown and St. Peter streets, was built in 1833, on land given by Philip English, a wealthy merchant of his time, for the site of the first church erected by the society in 1733. During the war of the Revolution public feeling against everything British ran so high that a law was enacted by the State Legislature forbidding the reading of the Episcopal service, under penalty of £100 and one year's imprisonment, and religious services were consequently sus- pended, while the property of the society suffered from lawless vio- lence. But calmer times followed and this society now enjoys its share of prosperity. The old bell, familiar to the ears of Salemites for a century and a half, still hangs in St. Peter's tower. It was c^st by Abel Rudhall, at Gloucester, England, and was first rung in 1740, and is, therefore, the oldest church bell in the city. The ini- tials of the maker, "A. R." surmounted by a crown upon the bell, have been supposed by many persons to mean "Anna Regina," and hence the story that Queen Anne gave this bell to the society. In 1885, a chime of ten bells was placed in St. Peter's tower, and these are rung on Sundays and days of service during the week. In the old edifice was the first organ ever placed in a Salem church, and this was imported from England by John Clark in 1743. A second organ followed in 1770, which was e^•changed in 1819 for one im- ported from England by Dr. B. L. Oliver, who had it in his private residence, and who almost neglected his profession, so fond was he of playing upon this instrument. The tablets containing the Apos- tles' Creed, Lord's Prayer and Ten Commandments, which were painted by John Gibbs of Boston, in 1738, for the old church, are still preserved, as well as the large folio volume of Common Prayer given the church in 1744 by the Rt. Hon. Sir Arthur Onslow, then Speaker of the House of Commons of Great Britain. There were several memorial plates and cups used by the church, dated 1757, 1771, and 1785; but, as was the case at the First church, the incon- oclast, in the year of grace 1817, siezed upon many of these inter- esting relics of the past and sent them to the melting pot to be 147 , ^^ VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM moulded into the fashion of the day, to the sincere regret of subse- quent oiKcers of the society.. In the church and chapel^are tablets to the memory of early members of the Episcopal church m Salem in- cluding John and Samuel Browne, members of the Massachusetts Bay Company n. 1628, and of the first council, Philip EnglTsh Toh" Touzel, and John and Mary Bertram, the parents^of Capt ' Tohr Bertram a name associated with nearly every charitable orgaiiLa ion m the r.ty. Among the tablets to the meniory of deceasfj en- ters of the c:hurch,, that to Rev. James Oliver Scripture has an ex ce lent medallion likeness of him moulded by Miss^ Louisa Lander" the well-known sculptress, long a member of the parish In the churchyard at the right of the entrance to the chur^ch, is a carv d Pu Esc I'atV"''"'''^ T"^ '''' ^"^^^^ ^' body 'of Jonathan Pue Esq., Late surveyor and searcher of his Majesties' customs in Salem, ^ew England," who died in 1760, at the age of s Ty-s x years. Hawthorne has made him famous by weaving'' hi.rname^in to the introduction to "The Scarlet Letter " inTxf. ^.^""''r' *^^/^^^Church (Unitarian), was organized m 1/18 by a reparation from the First Church, the present edifice of freestone bemg built m 1846. Richard Up ohn, fts archil twa born m England m 1802, and came to America in 1829. He buila cathedral at Bangor, Maine, and Trinity, St. I'homas and Grace churches m New York City. The old wooden mee^ng-house pre v.ously occupied by the society on Essex, between Bentl y and Ha'd" •streets was made famous by Dr. William Bentlev, the historTan S: rVTT9 a'nd "h' 1^-^' T ^r^''^' '""''^ ^-- 1783 untnS r06 E ex s rp'et Th ^ T *' ^"^'^ '''^^ ''^''^^''S, numbered r 1 :. , ^ graceful spire of the old meeting house from which pealed out the welcome news of peace after our two war's with England, was removed by Capt. Robert Brookhouse to the t^;,unds •of his Swampscott villa, and stood there for vears as a landn^.rk^n aicatmg the spot selected by Hugh Peter foV the La^n o" H r-" vard College. The bell still sounds from the cupola of the Bentky schoolhouse The society possesses manv interesting communion ■cups and other gifts of its early members. "The gothic decorTtTons o CHURCHES 143 [he present edifice make the interior one of the finest in the city. With this society is united the Independent Society formerly at Barton Square. The meeting-house of the latter has been transformed into a theatre. Sons of Jacob Synagogue, on the western corner of Essex and Herbert streets, was formerly the meeting house of the Calvary Bap- list church, and was sold bv the society in 1903 to the Sons of Jacob for a synagogue. The buildi'ig was erected in 1873. South Church (Congregational) is situated on the northeastern corner of Cambridge and Chestnut streets and was built in 1907. The society separated, under the lead of Colonel Timothy Pickering, from the Third, or Tabernacle Church, in 1774, and occupied an assembly hall on Cambridge street, on the site of the present vestry of the society, until its large wooden edifice was built in 1804 which was designed by Samuel INIcIntire and considered one of the best works of that noted architect. It was destroyed by fire in 1903. In the assembly house formerly on this site were held the elegant assem- blies and large social gatherings before the Revolution, — -the famous ball given by Governor Bernard's son in 1768, and official receptions tendered to Governor Hutchinson on his last military review in Massachusetts, and to Governor Gage on the last King's birthday celebrated in Massachusetts. Tabernacle Church (Congregational) corner of Washington and Federal streets, was separated from the First church in 1735. Its first meeting-house stood at what is now 242 Essex street, and was destroyed in the great fire of Oct. 6, 1774. In 1785, the so- ciety erected a meeting-house on the present site. That was suc- ceeded, in 1854, by the present wooden edifice, which seats about eleven hundred persons. Its spire, one hundred and eighty feet in height, was cut down in 1912 to its present proportions. Its fine organ was built by Woodberry & Harris. Salem was the first Amer- ican port from which missionaries sailed for Calcutta. On Feb. 6, 1812, the five missionaries who had the honor of that priority were consecrated to the work in the meeting house which then stood on this site. In the parlor of the present edifice is preserved a settee. 144 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM with a plate upon which is inscribed : "Upon this seat Rev. Messrs. Newell, Judson, Nott, Hall and Rice sat in the Tabernacle Church, Salem, on Feb. 6, 1812, when ordained to the work of the Gospel Ministry as missionaries to the Heathen in Asia." Portraits of all the pastors of the church are in the parlors, also the study chair of Rev. Samuel Worcester, a long-time pastor of the church. The church also owns some old and interesting pieces of plate, Universalist Church. The brick meeting-house of this society stands at the foot of Rust street, which leads from Federal street. The church was gathered in 1805, services having been held in va- rious places in town as early as 1804. This building was erected in 1808, and it has been remodelled several times, last in 1878, when a wooden addition was made to the tower. A large and convenient chapel connected with the church, and fronting on Ash street, -was built in 1889. A new Hutchings organ was added in October, 1888. Wesley Methodist Episcopal Church, 10 North street, is a large brick edifice with stone trimmings and in style of construction quite different from any other church building in the city. By means of sliding doors, the seating capacitv can be much increased by con- necting the Sunday-school rooms, which are at the street end of the building, with the large audience room. The windows of the church being of stained glass present a most attractive appearance in the evening when services are being held, the brightly lighted interior illuminating the large gqthic Avindow on North street. The church has been the recipient of a fine organ, a memorial gift from a mem- ber of the society, the builders being Woodberrv & Harris. CHAPTER IX. Societies, Clubs, etc. Associated Charities, having its headquarters at 252 Essex street, was incorporated in 1901, after existing as an association for several years. It was formed for the purpose of "giving relief to the wor- thy poor, to prevent begging and imposture, and to diminish pauper- ism." While it is entirely independent of the other charitable soci- eties of Salem, it works in harmony and co-operation with all. A "Fresh Air Fund," conducted by this organization, enables elderly or over-worked women, and sickly children, to obtain rest and relief. The registrar is at the office on week days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. Association for the Relief of Aged and Destitute Women was incorporated April 4, 1860. It occupies a brick mansion-house, 180 Derby street, where thirty-two inmates are at present (1916) provided with all the comforts of a home. Through the kindness of many clergymen, Sunday afternoon services are held in the parlor during the winter months. The house was built and occupied by Benjamin W. Crowninshield, a representative in Congress and sec- retary of the navy under Madison and Monroe. It was given for its present use by Robert Brookhouse, a successful merchant in the Afri- can trade. When President Monroe made his tour of the North in 1817, he arrived at Salem from Marblehead, July 8, and took poses - sion of this house, which had been vacated and made ready for his reception, and here he sojourned until his departure for the East four days later. On the ninth of July, a great dinner was given in the southeastern room, at which were present Commodores Perry and Bainbridge, Generals Miller and Dearborn, Senator Silsbee, Lieu- (145) 146 , VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM "^^^iT^^^S^^^^^y -^ other eminent .en. of the port bet^'en s" and 184^ fT'' "^'^' ^^ "^^ ^^"^^tor hero o/Lundy Lane! tl^ fru's^L^r 'TiIT; ^i^^f^' ^^ built at a^o^of l^o/ooaoo aT.^Lt^-f f, f//^-^^° ^^- ^--e was were made. The Home Avas pI^.m , , extensive alterations Michael Carlton ckv ml on. 1 "^ "' *' suggestion of Rev. donations. It may^^ v ? ed "^n 'w^'/'^'Pf'^'''^ ""^ *^^^ "^^^^^ of o'clock P. M, ^ "^ °'' ^^ednesdays, between 2 and 5 Bertram Home for Affed Men \m r\ ^ in 1877, by Capt. John Bertram Tl. i^^ ''''u' ^^' ^°""<^^^d Joseph Waters in 1806 7 and i well '^ 7"' ^^^^' ^°^ Capt. the museum of the Essex InsTitute •^'''^'" "' *^ ^^^^ °f _ Fraternity, ll Central street, was organized in 1860 T.= i -.a mg, erected in 1811 for the Essev Rant / ■ ?' ^^^ '^^'^^- Bulfinch, who planned t^ieLV Capitol aV w'\T'^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^ House at Boston. On renovating b. ^^^^^"gton and the State 1899, after the remova oTt^e Fkst N.r°°'''i%°" ,*' ^°^"^^ ^^^^ ^^ pied the building s nee 1819 a ^a K . i "'^ ^'?^ ^^"^^^ ^^^^ o^^"" moving which a^eautifu'/s^u cl'tt^'p^fcrin th?:"^'' T^^V^^" or home inlluenL Th^ ^^^l^: SZ^iT^X^i:^^^^ SOCIETIKS, CLUBS^ ETC. 147 books and newspapers in abundance. Music and games add to the attractions of the place. Free instruction is given by competent volunteer teachers to all who desire to study, and the rooms are fre- quented by large numbers. The organization also conducts a small gymnasium, industrial classes, and a summer camp at Rowley. Early in the last century, the Custom House occupied rooms in a building on this site. Grand Army Hall. The hall of Phil H. Sheridan Post, No. 34, G. A. R. (organized Dec. 10, 1867), is at 17 St. Peter street. Gen- eral Sheridan paid a long-promised visit to Salem, Feb. 2, 1888. He was received by the municipal authorities and the Post at City Hall, and presented a signed likeness of himself to the Post, which had always borne his name. During the war of 1861-5, more than three thousand men entered the Union service from this city, and more than two hundred were killed. Among our heroes were Brig. -Gen. Frederick W. Lander, Lt.-Col. Henry Alerritt, Lt.-Col. John Hodges, Major Seth S. Bux- ton, Captains George W. Batchelder, Charles A. Dearborn, John Saunders, Lieutenants Charles G. Ward, Pickering D. Allen, George C. Bancroft, and Charles F. Williams, all of whom lost their lives in the service of their country. Kernwood Country Club, off Kernwood street, a country clul) organized in 1914, occupies the beautiful estate of the late S. Ende- cott Peal)ody. The house was built in 1840 by Francis Peabody. Knights of Columbus, 94 Washington square. East, organized in 1893, occupy as their club house, the former residence of IJ. S. Sen- ator Nathaniel Silsbee. President Monroe, Henry Clay, Daniel Web- ster, and other eminent men have been entertained here. Mack Industrial School, 17 Pickman street, a school for girls, was founded in 1897 and is supported by funds bequeathed by Esther Mack. Instruction is given in needle work, dressmaking, cooking, etc. Masonic Temple, corner Washington street and Lynde street, was erected in 1915-16 at a cost of $250,000.00. It occupies the site of the Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse estate. See chapter on Historic Buildings, page 158. ^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM ciaf rd^l'^tfin"'' ^^^°^i.^ti<:>"'36 Washington square, South, a so- is1/.n?^ '^ organization for young men, was organized in snip (1916) of 735, and holds property valued at $40,000, nothing r''Now"aL Tl ''T^i^'J '^^^^^^- C«^--t^d with its club hous? persons ^'"''"'''' ^^^ ^^^^'^ ^^^^^t) seating 900 Salem Golf Club, Margin street, Peabody, was organized in 1895 Its grounds (60 acres) are finely located along the Danvers river' There is a 9-hole course about 3100 yards in length Tsl^nnT"'-^^'"' ^'^°°^- ^^^^^"g °^^^ the°causeway to Winter on'ie Mt oTlr ?•"'' ^"^' ;V^^^ French-roofed wooden buildin" on the left of the driveway. This is the Pluramer Farm School a vtT.T'' r'T'''' '^^ ""'y'- '' -^^ --l°-^d by Miss CaJoline P ummer, whose bequests also built Plummer Hall and founded the P ummer Professorship of Morals at Harvard University Te original bequest was $26,196.68, and the fund had increased from $ 000 to th'' '°1 ^'^'^^- ^^P^- J°^^^^ ^-^-- made a bequest o" $35 000 o the school. The institution was incorporated in 1855 and rcomnodaf.r"lf "^' ''''T r''^' "^ ''''■ thirty boys are accommodated. There is a school, and carpentry, chair-seating, and o her industries are .taught. Visitors are admitted on Wedif sday afternoons from three until six o'clock ^unebuay Salem Charitable Mechanic Association, organized in 1817 has rooms at 246^ Essex street, which are open on Saturday evem mgs. It has a library of nearly 4000 volumes for the use of its mem- isffh'^T?"^^^ Washington square, occupies a house built in 1818 by John Forrester, and later enlarged and occupied for many years as the town residence of the late George Peabodv Ii^t garc^n, best seen from Mall street, is the largest tulip t'ree in th]S Seaman's Orphan and Children's Friend Society 7 r-,r penter street, was originally known as "The Children's Friend So- ciety, and was initiated by Rev. Michael Carlton, a most benevo SOCIETIES, CLUBS, ETC. 149 lent man and minister at large, whose name is connected with the early efforts of charitable organizations in Salem to assist orphan children. After taking children to his own home, where they were cared for by Mrs. Carlton and himself, assistance was received from friends, and rooms were occupied in the old building, 53 Charter street, near his residence, known as the "Dr. Grimshawe House." The society was organized in 1839, and later occupied a house ad- joining the present home. This was erected in 1877. The first build- ing was the gift of Robert Erookhouse, and it was fitted up by va- rious donations and bequests. A building in the rear is used as a hospital. Veteran Fireman's Hose House, 128 Derby street, contains a hand engine of the old-fashioned type, which is sometimes used in an emergency, and often in friendly rivalry, and a museum of axes, fire buckets, and ancient appliances.* Woman's Friend Society, 12 Elm street, was organized in 1876, and incorporated in 1884. A reading room for girls was first es- tablished in the Maynes Block, and later a home for girls at the cor- ner of Essex and Daniels streets. An employment bureau was also established about the same time. Capt. John Bertram gave the north- ern portion of this large brick house to the society in 1879, and in 1889, through the generousity of friends, the southern part was pur- chased. The society now conducts a home for girls, who are fur- nished good rooms and board at a reasonable price ; an intelligence oitice ; and a mission distributing delicacies and flowers to the sick every Thursday. The institution depends for its support upon the contributions of the charitable. By means of special funds, the society also supports a trained nurse, known as the "visiting nurse," whose duty it is to make daily visits of about an hour each to poor persons who may be sick in their * The first recorded effort at public protection against fire seems to have been made in 1644 at Salem. Each householder was to supply himself with a ladder, under penalty of five shillings. In 1679, Salem purchased hooks and other implements, with two or three dozen cedar buckets, and gave the selectmen and two other fire-wards the right to command at a fire and to blow up and pull down buildings. The Poptilar Science Monthly for August, 1S95, finds no earlier dates than these in the evolution of a fire department. ^^0 visitor's guide to SALEM homes to make them comfortable, and to instruct those who may have charge of them as to proper care and food. Any unoccupied time of the nurse is given to persons requiring temporary aid who can pay for such services. Money thus received is devoted to the turtlier assistance of the poor patients. A "loan closet," with the usual hospital supplies, including bed clothing, etc.. is provided in connection with this charity. " ' io^i°o"c^^,^^"'^ Catholic Temperance Society, organized Oct. ly. 185 7, has its headquarters at 10 Boston street. Young Men's Christian Association, 288 Essex street This new and costly building of light brick and freestone, the home of the balem Y. M. C. A., was built in 1898. Its auditorium is named Ames hall, m honor of George L. Ames, a benefactor of the Asso- ciation. There are bowling alleys, a fine swimming tank and a well equipped gymnasium. Newspapers, periodicals and books are gen- erously provided. There is also a "boy's branch," started in 1869 which IS the oldest one in the world. The Salem Association was es- tablished m 1858, and from 1884 to 1898, was located at 2QVo Cen- tral street. ^ CHAPTER X. Historic Buildings, Sites, Monuments, etc. Andrew House, 13 Washington Square, West, on the corner of Brown street. This house, erected by John Andrew in 1818, was a favorite visiting place of Gov. John A. Andrew in his youth. John Andrew was the Governor's uncle. It was spoken of at the time of its completion as the most costly private residence in New England, and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the early portion of the last century. Assembly Hall, 138 Federal street, was built in 1782, and from that date until 1795 was a famous Assembly House. Here Lafayette was entertained Oct. 29, 1784, and Washington, Oct. 29, 1789, and oratorios, concerts, balls and dances were of frequent occurence. It has been a private dwelling house since that time, and Judge Samuel Putnam was among those who lived there. Bakery, Old., sec House of the Seven Gables. Beadle's Tavern, Site of, 65 Essex street. This inn kept by Thomas Beadle was flourishing in the witchcraft times. Bishop House, Site of. Edward Bishop and his wife, Bridget, lived in a house that stood, in 1692,- on the southern corner of Church and Washington streets. It was here that the "puppets" were said to have been found. Boardman House, 82 Washington Square, East, which, with slight modern additions, still preserves its original appearance, at- tracted the attention of Washington when visiting Salem in 1789, by the beauty of its architectural proportions. It was then new, and had been offered for his use. (151) ^^^ VISlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM Cabot House 365 Essex street. This old-time mansion was Ho:^ ^WiFli. r ' "' '■'t'^^'' ''' *^^^y y^-^ -- the residenc ot Hon William Crownmshield Endicott, Justice of the SunreniP JutrEiScot; T ''V' 1 '^'' ^^"^- President'cfevS man^ atso Rt V ' f'^'r^^' "^ 1890, Gen. William T. Sher- man, also Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain of England, his son-in- Cook-Ohver House, 142 Federal street. This house where r2 ^"? f'".'^^ ^'''^'^ ^^^^"^^' ^-^d and died, was bud by nSon"^DS/'*""'"^'"' "^"'^ ^^^^ demolition'of the D rb^ fi?Mr 'n L fi y T'r' '^^' '" P''^^^^^^' ^"d ^^^h of the beauti! ful Mclntire finish of that costly structure was built into this house constituting some of the best specimens of Mclntire's work now ex-' nr ^T'lln^^'f'^'^ ^^^'^- ^^^^^ B^^ket Street is Crowninshield's or India Wharf, now owned by the Wilkesbarre Coal Compay where the bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of the Ckis' s^:ZlnT2\'Zf:' ^f i^°" ^-^^f- their funeral p'roce^si^n started Aug. 23, 1813. The disastrous battle between the C/iesa/>eake and the Shannon^ on June 1, 1813, was fought so near the shore tS It was witnessed from the higher hills of Salem Jissex Bridge, which connects Salem and Beverly, is at the east ern end of Bridge street. It was built in 1788, and^egard d in day as a triumph of engineering skill. It was praised by Bnssot de .^a "ce t'o^?: riT^ '' -n'"^ '^^'' ^°"P^^^^^' ^^ who' et'rned ^o xiance to die by the guillotme m 1793; and also by Washinaton who crossed It m 1789. By the draw, which was lifted by n an Sow' ?n h^' rrv ^^^ThT^T^irrT.^ '^^. ''i'^^'^ ^^^^^^^^^ b7HawtlC; L^ne. 17; 62 Toll-Gatherer's Day." See chapter on Ha^. The piers of the bridge have long been a favorite place for col- HISTORIC BUILDINGS, SITES^ MONUMENTS^ ETC. 153 lecting the invertebrates living in salt water. Here, at exceptionally low tides, there is a good opportunity for collecting and studying the curious sea-anemones, star-fishes, sea-urchins, hydroids, sponges, and many small moUusks. To the left of the bridge, at the edge of the water, is the trap dike made famous by Hitchcock in his report on the Geology of Massa- chusetts, in 1841. Within the area of a square rod eleven different eruptions of granite and trap rock may be found. Essex House. The site of the Essex House, 1761/2 Essex street, was the home of Peter Palfry, one of the Old Planters, before 1651. It was afterward the homestead of Hon. William Browne, one of the council of Sir Edmond Andros, and in this fine house William Good- hue conducted a tavern for many years at the close of the Revolution. He subsequently leased the house to Samuel Robinson and Capt. Benjamin Webb successively for the same purpose. The latter was an innkeeper there in 1793, conducting the most noted tavern in Salem. It was then known as the Sun tavern. Captain Webb con- tinued the business until the estate was sold to William Gray, Jr., of Salem, the celebrated merchant "Billy Gray," who took the old house down. He was born in Lynn in 1761, and came to Salem at an early age, becoming one of the greatest merchants and ship-own- ers in the country. His counting-room, primitive in the extreme, was interesting in comparison with the offices of merchants of the present day, and the very limited draft of water at his wharves w^ould stagger the modern navigator. It was in the warehouse, num- bered 311 Derby street, destroyed in the great fire of 1914, that he conned his ledgers. He was lieutenant-governor of Massachusetts in 1810-11, and died in Boston in 1825. At the close of the Revolu- tion in 1783, when several "absentee" estates were in the market, William Gray bought at public vendue the property on Essex street where the Bowker Block now stands, confiscated on account of the course taken by Col. William Browne. It was a large and stately mansion standing eighteen feet back from the street. Here Mr. Gray lived until he bought the Sun tavern, and on its site erected the magnificent mansion house to which he removed about 1800, and, 154 VrSlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM was saved the r'oueh clt L "f T^'^^" ^^ ^665 from whicl- Institute, and n^uf i^L? beTh r'""." *'^-' "^"^^^^ ^^ ti- the Seven Gables," b Le n ISOS 'th 7'^'"^^ ^" '^'' "House of t^intil 1828, when the buTldina I ^^^" ^'^^^ ^^'^^^^ continued preserved by the Danvers Historical societt T^^ ^ 'T' '' "°^' a long time among some of th. -!i i 1' '''''' "^^"^ ^"0^" for House. When Lafl^Te^ ep 'tL 'i^TstrifT ^'^ ^"^5 ^^^^^ oIdfirepla:e'ar:;;::,el^r^^^^^^^^^^ A fi.L resentmg scenes in the French Revolmio; ^ ^TT^^ P^P"^'' "^P" parlor. I„ 1896 the propTrtv walbu 7' TT"^ '^'' '"^"^ °^ ^^e the hotel remodelled 1^0] sM I I i^ ^'^^ *° '^'^ ^^^^^t line and ancUgain remodelled ^'°''^ ''"^ ""'"'^y destroyed by fire iSs'^'a^TGetrafMc'SelL'tT;;^ '--' ^^^ 6> Essex House on the morm^Vof F:f r 186'3'' Th"^? ^'^^^ of that time stood some forlv feet fr. i ^^ ^''^^^ ^^^^^ court-yard for stage-coaches n'^fron Trr ''''''^ ''''^ ^ P^^^^ years, to be the leading hotel in the citv ""'"^""^' '^ ^^^ ^^^"^ deW'al^^^^:^, Jl-.f-t budt ^^ ^^- -^^^ -«lers as a ner of Selall and L ^d' St t^ t v^sT I "7 '''' '"'''''^ -- portion of the citv and wa^ tho ^ the highest ground in that ner, who lived on 'the fot ^''^"'-^^ °^ -^^"^"^^ ''^harp, the gun- pe^!s^L^:!!ed f!;r^;i;^^::frt 1^ ''^::iiz r'r Hawthorne's cour^Z his \ffi^ rf 'r''" ^^^"^^^ ^^^^ ^ays of mansion. HawZme w ho m n ^ f ", 'i '''^'^'^ "^ ^^is old-time tions connected wth tb^ lo,^ e " uf ^''''' delightful associa- Pleasant ''Dollte Ron mc '' " d T^ rif "^"'^^"^ ^" ^^e un- i^omance and m its still more disagreeable pre- HISTORIC BUILDINGS,, SITES, MONUMENTS^ ETC. 155 sentment in "Dr. Grimshawe's Secret." The building was remodeled in 1915 and is now a lodging house. Rooms in this house were oc- cupied, at its inception, by the Children's Friend Society, the origi- nal of the Carpenter Street Home. See chapter on Hcuvthorne, p. 52. Nathaniel Hawthorne, Birthplace of, 27 Union street. Na- thaniel Hawthorne was born July 4, 1804, iuithe northwest chamber of this gambrel-roofed house. The house was built prior to 1685, by Benjamin Pickman, and came into the possession of the grandfather of Hawthorne in 1772. With the exception of a modern front door and windo^\■s, the house is in about the same condition as when the great author was born. The lot of land upon which this house stood extended through to Herbert street, and on the Herbert street end was a house to which the author's mother and her children re- moved upon the death of Capt. Hathorne, in 1808. The latter is now remodeled for a tenement house, and numbered 10l^ and 12. Hawthorne lived there until .1818, w^hen the family removed to Ray- mond, Me. The house was built about 1790, and when Hawthorne first lived in it, in 1808, it was owned by his grandfather, Richard Manning. Hawthorne's room in his youth was in the southwest corner of the third story, overlooking his birthplace. A pai\e of glass from one of the windows, on which he had scratched his name with a diamond, is still preserved by the family. See chapter on Haiv- thorne. page 42. "House of the Seven Gables", 54 Turner street, was built about 1669 and long remained in the Turner family. During Hawthorne's residence in Salem it was occupied by his cousin, Miss Susan Inger- soll. In 1909 the house was restored and made the center of a neigh- borhood settlement work. Six furnished rooms, a "cent shop", and a secret staircase are shown. Admission 25 cents. Sec chapter on Hmvthorne, pac^e 04. The Marine Society Bethel, formerly situated on the water's edge, in what was the garden of the "House of the Seven Gables", now stands on the northern side of the "Gables" where it has been remodeled and is known as "Turner Hall". It was built in 1890 by funds bequeathed by Capt. Henry Barr. 156 visitor's guide to SALEM NARBONNE HOUSE, SHOWING LEAN-TO ROOF AND CORNER SHOP one^of'^H.eTp^''"'^' ]' ^'^'-^ ■^^^^^^' ^^"^^ '^^ilt before 1671 and is Z^IJ"::;:^^:^'^ ^' '^^^^-^ °^ ^^^^^ P--^' showlng'lean-to North Bridge. Here, on Sunday afternoon Feb 96 177=; .i. a. Marb "rd a,d m!'rXd ". t,"""^"'^ ^'«^'"'' "*'° '«<^ '^^^^^ to be concealed In .h" m«h Fidd"' '" ""* "' ^^""°" ''^"'-'^ beilg'noTtit ":r.t fte'S> '""'^^or.!, bridge, Colonel Leslie he fad fre,:rd'?bf Ll^fSe X 'c";? tr^'df "^l™ T^d on Ly,,de street, i„ the house now removed to « Federai s r et l1 ed" Z:'Z' P^^-'-'- ;-""«' «- colonel that he cot^ld' no ' pro »ar..a. '^w had t^'^^n S;\d:ternTd%Srat ht ^S ^' HISTORIC BUILDINGS, SITES^ MONUMENTS, ETC. 157 Religious services were in progress in the North church, which then stood on the soutliern corner of North and Lynde streets, when Capt. David Mason shouted the alarm, Maj. John Pedrick of Mar- blehead having ridden "across lots" with the intelligence in advance of the Regulars. Parson Thomas Barnard dismissed his congrega- tion and hastened to the bridge in the role of peacemaker. The draw had already been raised, and Capt. James Barr, who lived at 25 Lynde street, had scuttled his "gundalow", which was lying at the wharf near by. During the discussion which ensued the guns were removed to a secure place. The concourse of citizens rapidly in- creased, and late in the afternoon Colonel Leslie agreed that if the draw should be lowered he would march but a few rods beyond, abandon the search and withdraw his regiment. The terms were ac- cepted and observed, and the regiment returned to Marblehead and re-embarked for Boston.* General Gage reported to his government that he had been misled and that the guns did not exist. The cannon in question were ship's guns loaned to the Province by Richard Derby, and were being mounted as field artillery in the blacksmith shop of Robert Foster, who lived at 88 North street, and whose shop was across the road from his house. This was the first opposition to the military author- ity of Great Britain. It occurred two months before Lexington and Concord, and four months before Bunker Hill, and if the British troops succeeded in their objects at those points, it may be said that they failed at Salem. A memorial tablet of bronze, inserted in an upright granite block, was placed at the North bridge in 1887, by the authorities of the city. It bears the following inscription : — IN THE REVOLUTION THE FIRST ARMED RESISTENCE TO THE ROYAL AUTHORITY WAS MADE AT THIS BRIDGE 26 Feb. 1775 BY THE PEOPLE OF Salem. The advance of 300 British troops, led by lt. col. LESLIE AND SENT BY GEN. GAGE TO SEIZE MUNITIONS OF WAR, WAS here ARRESTED. * Eldmund Burke summed up the situation in these memorable words, — "Thus ended their first expedition, without effect, and "happily without mis- chief. Enough appeared to show on what a slender thread the peace of the Empire hunj?, and that the least exertion »f the military power would cer- tainly bring things to extremities." ICO ^^ VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM Old Bakery formerly at 23 Washington street, is an ancient 'n'Sl h V ""''^^^-^ - bakery for^.any year's. It wa buH n 1683 by Benjamin Hooper and was removed to the garden of the Gables" and remodeled in 1911 ^ Pickering House, 18 Broad Street. This ancient edifice of many Ictrinrf "; f "^ '''■'' '^ J°^"^ ^^^^^""-^' -^d has been in th^ f'lcker ng family ever since. It was remodelled in 1841 when the present "peaked windows" and exterior finish were added Col Timothy Pickering, soldier and statesman, was born here in 174^' An mteresting cast iron fire back cast in 1660 at the Sauaus Iron ™e 'inStur"'- "^ '"^ '^^"' "^^^ ^" "^" "^ themuseunrof the Pickman House, rear of 165 Essex street, was built bv Col Ben- jamin Pickman in 1743. It was beautifullv furnished and decoVate and each stair was finished with a carved and gilded codfish (see one preserved in the museum of the Essex Institute) indicating th sour of hi. affluence. Governor Pownall was entertained here Oct 22 jm'l2(tT800 '''^^^^'"^' -^'"'' ^^' ''^^' '"^ Alexander Hamilton,' Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse Estate was on the southern corner o Washington and Lynde streets, now occupied by the Mason c Tern pie erected in 1915-16. It was built in 1764, bv Hon. B njam n Pickman, a wealthy merchant. In one of the windows of the cuoo " a space was left, through .vhich a spy-glass could be used to watch for in-commg ships. The eagle on the top of the cupola, like sev- eral others in Salem, was the work of Mclntire. The arched ceilhv. of the cupola had a fresco by Corne, showing the Derbv fleet the house having been occupied by Elias Hasket Derby during the ;ear of his greatest commercial activity, and until a few months before his death, when he removed to his new and "elegant" mansion on the site of the present market house. This cupola isliow preserved i le garden in the rear of the museum of the Essex Institute Pierce-Nichols House, 80 Federal street, erected in 1782 is a fine specimen of the houses of the time of commercial prosperity and the finest example extant of the work of Samuel Mclntire Sa enV ■ famous architect. ^iicui -> THE NICHOLS HOUSE. PAVED COURTYARD IN REAR OF NICHOLS HOUSE. 160 visitor's guide to SALEM "Pine Apple Doorway", see Essex Institute Museum. Prison Ship. During the War of 1812-15, a large prison ship, filled with British prisoners of M'ar, was anchored in the North river, opposite the foot of Rust street. Ruck House, 8 Mill street, was built by Thomas Ruck before 1651, several additions having since been made. The oldest portioij is the northwest corner, where the great chimney stands, and it remained in the Ruck family until 1751, when the old part was con- veyed to Joseph Mclntire, joiner, father of Samuel Mclntire, the famous architect. Mr. Mclntire sold the old part to Samuel Bacon, who owned the new part, in 1754. While the latter owned the house it was occupied, in 1766 and 1767, by Richard Cranch, a watchmaker and local justice. Mr. Cranch and the young lawyer, John Adams, afterwards President of the United States, married sisters; and when riding the eastern circuit, Adams visited Salem several times, stop- ping with "brother" Cranch. In speaking of the house, he wrote in his journal, while visiting there, Nov. 3, 1766, "Cranch is now in a good situation for business, near the Court House, . . . his house, fronting on the ^\harves, the harbor and the shipping, has a fine prospect before it." Cranch's son William became, in 1805, the cele- brated Justice Cranch of the United States supreme court. Mr. Cranch removed to Boston in 1767, and was succeeded as a tenant of this house by John Singleton Copley, the celebrated artist, who re- mained here a considerable time painting portraits of lead- ing citizens. Copley's son, subsequently Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor of England, was brought here while an infant. The fam- ily sailed for England in 1775, being in sympathy with the Crown. This was the house of Rev. Samuel Worcester, pastor of the Taber- nacle church, from 1809 until his decease in 1821; and of Rev. Thomas Carlisle, rector of St. Peter's, in 1822. Since that time it has been in possession of the family of Ephraim Brown, the rear portion of it being known in former times as Brown's bakery. Ship Tavern, Site of. Opposite Central street stood the residence of John Gedney before 1660, He conducted a tavern here and in a •chamber of the ancient house the quarterly courts were held for manv RUCK HOUSE, WHERE JOHN ADAMS VISITED AND COPLEY PAINTED. BIRTHPLACE OF TLMOTHY PICKERING. 162 visitor's guide to salem years. The house was known as "Ship Tavern" and was taken down in 1748. A fine house called the "King's Arms" was built upon the site and the business continued. President Jackson visited Salem June 26, 1833, and passed the night in this house, which was placed at his disposal by its owner, Capt. Nathaniel West. Later it became the "Mansion House". Shipyard of the Beckets. iVt the foot of Becket street was the shipyard of the Becket family, who built vessels here from 1755 to 1800, and later in a yard beyond. The privateer America, the fa- mous ships Mount Vernon, Recovery, and Margaret, and the cele- brated yachi; Cleopatra's Barege, were built here. John Ward House, see Essex Institute Museum. Joshua Ward House. 1 48 Washington street. The ancient struc- ture that originally stood on the site of this house was the residence of Sheriff George Corwin, who, in 1692, at the age of twenty-six, executed the persons condemned for witchcraft. He died here four years later, and it is said that the public feeling against him was then so bitter that the family dared not trust his remains in the tomb in the rear of the house, but deposited them for a long time in the cellar of the house. The main portion of the present brick house was built in 1781 for his residence, by the merchant, Joshua Ward. Washing- ton passed the night of Oct. 29, 1789, in the northeast chamber, second floor, of this hotise, when on his tour of New England. Ward-Crowninshield House. The residence of Miles Ward, built about 1740, now much remodelled, stands on the eastern corner of Herbert and Derby streets. Jacob Crowninshield also lived here. He was a merchant and member of Congress, and was appointed Secretary of the Navy by President Jefferson but declined the honor. During his life in the Manning house on Herbert street, Nathaniel Hawthorne was very intimate with the family living in this house. Stce chapter on HaK'thornc, page 5o. West House. At the northern corner of North and Lynde streets stands a house, in which was born and lived Lieut. Benjamin West. He was an ancestor of the late Hon. Caleb Foote, of the Salem Gazette, who had an original portrait of him, painted by West kllLES WARD AND JACOB CROWN INbHIELD HOUSE, SHOWING GAMBREL ROOF. CABOT AND JUDGE ENDICOTT HOUSE, SHOWING GAMBREL ROOF. ^^'^ visitor's guide to SALEM himself. A pastel copy is at the Essex Institute. The house wa bull 111 1 75J. From it Lieutenant West marched to the Battle o Bunker Hill, where he was the only man from Salem who lost hi lite. .1. "^'??.i^T^^"' ^^^ ^^'''■" '^'■'^^- The house is familiarly callec the Old Witch House," from the fact that a tradition exists tha some preliminary examinations in witchcraft cases were held in one of ^its rooms when it was occupied by Jonathan Corwin, one of the juages m the witchcraft trials. A drawing of the house as it was ir Its early days may be seen at the Essex Institute. The interior and cnimney are m much the same state as in 1692. The house was un- hnished in 1675 when reconstructed in much its present form See chapter on Salem Architecture, page JJ- Monuments. Roger Conant Statue. Upon a huge bowlder brought from the woods near the Floating Bridge and placed at the easterly end of Brown street, stands the heroic bronze figure of Roger Conant the leader of the first settlement at Naumkeag, now Salem, in 1626 'The sratue was designed by Henry H. Kitson for the Conant Family As- sociation and dedicated June 17. 1913. Father Mathew Statue. At the western end of Charter street on the right in the middle of Central street, is the statue of Rev' Theobald Mathew, the apostle of temperance, who yisited Salem' Sept. 19, 1849. The. statue Avas erected in 1887. over a sprinc^ 23d Regiment Boulder stands in Winter street at the end near- est the Common, lliis granite boulder Aveidis about 58 tons and was brought from Salem Neck in 1905. It commemorates the ser- vice of the 23d Regt. Mass. Yol. Infantry in the Civil War The bronze tablet also records the names of' thirteen engagements in which the regiment took part and the corps-badge of the 1 8th Army Corps, in bronze also is attached to the boulder. The cannon within the enclosure formerly were in front of the old Cadet Armory CHAPTER XI. Cemeteries. Broad Street Burial Ground. In the rear of the schoolhouses at the corner of Broad street and Summer street is the Broad street cemetery, which was laid out in 1655, burials having previously taken place there. Here are buried George Corwin, the sheriff who served the warrants on the persons convicted of witchcraft, Judge Nathaniel Ropes, Col. Timotliy Pickering, Gen. Frederick W. Lan- der, and Caroline Plummer, a name attached to literary and char- itable institutions in Salem and to a professorship at Harvard. The older stones are upon the higher ground at the southern side ; among them are those of John Norman, 1713; Mary Lambert, 1693; and the three Sewall children, 1684-88, the record on the last named stone closing with a quaint and pathetic verse. Charter Street Burial Ground. This is the oldest burial ground in the city, and was originally known as "Burying Point," being situ- ated on a blutf which projected into South river. The oldest stones can be found just east of the large willow tree in the center of the ground and west of it towards the western fence and in the rear of the "Grimshawe House." The oldest stone is that of "Doraty, wife to Philip Cromwell," 1673. Capt. Rich- ard More who came in the "Mayflower," as a boy of twelve, is buried here and his grave- stone is the only one of a Mayflower passenger known to exist. A very curious stone erected to the memory of Timothy Lindall, a merchant of Salem, should be noticed, as well as that to Nathaniel Mather, the precocious vounger brother of the celebrated (165) Capt. Richard More gravestone. 166 visitor's guide to salem Cotton Mather of Boston, whose epitaph reads, "An aged person that had seen but nhieteen' winters in the world." Governor Brad- street, Rev. John Higginson, the Chief Justices Lynde and Judge Hathorne of the witchcraft court are also buried here. Governor Bradstreet's tomb, covered by a simple monument erected by the Province, is located on the highest part of the ground about midway on the western or right-hand side. Originally an elaborate inscrip- tion in Latin was to be read upon the slab, but it is now wholly worn away by the elements. The rest of the tombs in the place having monuments are marked, but not a letter remains to show the identity of this one. Situated at the rear of the cemetery on the left-hand, near the stone of Dorothy Cromwell is that of Miss Mary Crom- well, dated 1683. This is the finest and only perfect example of its class of ancient gravestones known to exist in the county, and one of the two or three now standing in New England. Here is, also, the gravestone of "Dr. John Swinnerton, Physician," who died in 1688. The name of Doctor Swinnerton appears in "The House of the Seven Gables" and, again, as the ancient apothecary, with th^ sign of the "the brazen serpent," in the "Doliver Romance," and the name of his own ancestor, Hathorne, the romancer has used as freely. Hawthorne frequented, and often mentioned in his writings, this old burial ground, which remains unchanged. A bronze tablet, placed by the city upon the iron fence on the- street, bears th-e. fol- lowing inscription : — " . This ground^ the first set apart in Salem for the burial OF the dead, and, since 1637 known as The Burying Point, CONTAINS the GRAVES OF GOVERNOR BrADSTREET, ChIEF JUSTICES Lynde, and others whose virtues, honor, courage and sagacity^ HAVE NOBLY ILLUSTRATED THE HiSTORY OF SaLEM. Friends' Cemetery, 396^4 Essex street. Here, for a hundred years from 1718, stood the second meeting-house of the Society of Friends. Greenlawn Cemetery, bounded by Orne and Appleton streets. \\( fiu-nUimon m. I -lore 9| ''J^ -X *-■*• W: 11 Md \>if(' M M' jon GRAVESTONES IN THE CHARTER STREET CKMEIERY. 168 visitor's guide to salem and Liberty Hill avenue, is the principal burial place owned and controlled by the city. It was first used in 1807. A beautiful me- morial chapel and conservatory, erected in 1894, by Walter Scott Dickson, in memory of his wife, is located here, and also a soldiers' monument, placed here by the Sons of Veterans. Harmony Grove Cemetery. By continuing down School and Grove streets to 30 Grove street, the main entrance of Harmony Grove cemetery is reached. It comprises about sixty-five acres. This was one of the first of the rural cemeteries to be established in this neighborhood (1840), following closelv the model set at Mount Auburn. An arch of rough stones spans the carriage-way at the en- trance. It is fortunate in having within its precincts some fine wooded growth which gives it a quiet and secluded air, though this seclusion is somewhat marred by the close proximity of the railroad with its numerous passing trains. Many expensive monuments have been placed in private lots. The beautiful memorial chapel, built in 1905, is a bequest of Mrs. Nancy C. Blake in memory of her son George Harrison Blake, who died in 1869. In a lot on Locust path, the remains of George Peabody, the great philanthropist, are in- terred, and a large sacophagus of granite marks the last resting place of Capt. John Bertram, the generous benefactor of Salem. A soldiers' lot, on Greenwood avenue, has a fine granite monument and a tablet, erected by means of the M. Fenollosa fund. Howard Street Burial Ground adjoins the Prescott schoolhouse and is under the care of the city. The first interments were made in 1801, and in the tomb of George Crowninshield reposed temporarily the bodies of Captain Lawrence and Lieutenant Ludlow of the St. Mary's Cemetery. At 220 North street is the extensive burial around of the Roman Catholics. CHAPTER XII. Parks, Squares^ etc. The Common, which was named Washington square in 1802, is a territory of about eight acres, bounded by what were until 1880 known as Newbury, Brown, Pleasant and Forrester streets, but are now called by the general name of Washington square. This has al- ways been public land. Originally the southern, southeastern and cen- tral portions were swamp, contain- ing five ponds and there were sever- al hillocks. In front of what is now the Second or East church, was the pen, the upland portion of what is now the common. This is the place where the cows were brought morn- ings and returned at night as the yard, from which the cowherds took the cows to the Neck for the day and to which they returned them at night, for the owners. On this part military drill was regularly held and in 1714, the common- ers voted that the spot "where trainings are held in front of Nathan- iel Higginson's house shall be forever kept as a training field for the use of Salem." It is nov,' a level lawn, the ponds having been filled in and the entire surface levelled in 1801, when Elias Has- ket Derby, then a colonel in the militia, raised about $2500 for put- ting the reservation in better condition for a "training field." A Tl^elT-lritire V/e5tQate 1805- 1850. (169) 170 visitor's guide to SALEM wooden fence with four ornamented gates was provided in 1805. The western gate was ornamented with wood carvings by the architect Sam- uel Mclntire including a medallion portrait of Washington, now pre- served in the museum of the Essex Institute. The large elms on the Common were planted about 1818 to replace Lombardy poplars, the trees first set out in 1802, and which were destroved in the great gale of Sept. 23, 1815. Forest River Park, reached through Clifton avenue, from Lafay- ette street, is finely located on rolling land skirting the harbor. It was pur- chased by the city and opened in 1907 1 1 contains 29 acres and is equipped with a bathing basin and spaces for games and sports. is opposite the main entrance to Harmony Grove cemetery, and was devised to the city by the will of Esther C. Mack, in 1885, being confirmed by the will of her brother. Dr. Wil- liam Mack, in 1895. This is an extensive rocky eminence, affording an excellent view of the city and harbor. Liberty Hill, which is reached by way of Liberty Hill avenue, has been a park from the first settlement, and is a favorite resort for many people on account of "Cold Spring", several springs of pure cold water, which have been used for centuries. This is a delightful and picturesque spot; and here in 1844, the Millerites conducted a camp meeting, ten thousand people attending on a single Sunday. The Willows. At the easterly end of the city is the park called the Willows. Not only is this resorted to by the people., of the city, WASHING lux Medallion can'ed in wood by Samuel Mclntire Hill Park Ledge THE WILLOWS. "THE CLIFFS," BAKER'S ISLAND 172 VISlTOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM but pleasant summer days bring thousands of visitors by water and land from Boston, Lowell, and nearer towns and cities. Steam- boats ply about the harbor and to Baker's island. The location is beautiful, being on a peninsula, jutting out in a rugged point, and is one of the few such sites on our coast freely accessible to the public. To the north, across the water, lies the Beverly shore, with its sum- mer residences peeping out from among the trees ; Cape Ann is at the northeast; Great and Little Misery, Baker's (with its twin light- Jiouses), Lowell, and the smaller islands of the harbor, directly sea- ward ; and on the south is the rocky headland of Marblehead, with its dilapidated old Fort Miller at the water's edge. On fine days the harbor is enlivened by scores of sailing craft and launches. The city provides open pavilions, where parties may lunch and enjoy the scenery and surroundings. Several restaurants are rented by the city, and at any of them lunch, dinner or supper may be had at a moderate price ; and for children there are the amusements usually found in public places. The old trees which gave the name to this marine park are European white willows. They were planted by the Salem Board of Health in 1801, to provide a shady walk for con- valescents at an old hospital. Nine of the forty trees remain today. Juniper Point. Adjoining the Willows to the south is Juniper Point, a summer resort, with many pleasantly situated cottages and two hotels, the Atlantic, and Juniper Point Inn. Fort Lee. 7"here have been forts and blockhouses on Salem Neck from the earliest times. Fort Lee is located on the heights at the left beyond the citv farm. There was a fort constructed on this site as early as 1742, and it was occupied in the War of 1812-15. In the War of the Rebellion it was mounted with four guns, which com- manded the approaches to the outer harbor. It is still the property of the United States government. The earthworks add much to the picturesqu*e appearance of the Neck. Winter Island. Opposite Fort Lee, to the right, lies Winter Island, reached by a causeway. In the early days this was the cen- ter of the fishing industry and a place of shipbuilding ; many people resided there and on the adjacent portions of the Neck, and two PARKS, SQUARES, ETC. 173 or more taverns flourished there in early days. Tlie noted frigate Essex, of thirty-two guns, was built here in 1799, by Enos Briggs, at a spot near the lighthouse. Several public executions have taken place here, the last one being in 1821, when Stephen Merrill Clark of Newbury, a boy of sixteen, was hanged for the crime of arson. Fort Pickering is on Winter island. There was a fort here as early as 1643. During the War of 1812-15 it was occupied, and at the time of the Civil War it was fortified with six guns. During the Spanish-American War two companies of the Mass. 1st Heavy Artillery were stationed here. The fort was located here to prevent the passage of unfriendly vessels into the inner harbor. Winter Island Lighthouse, reached by a bridge, is near Fort Pickering. The visitor can inspect tlie lighthouse upon application to the keeper. Town House Square. This square is formed by the crossing of Essex and Washington streets. From the first settlement this has been the center of population and business ; and the scene of manv important events. Red Cross Incident. , Town House Square is undoubtedly the scene of Endecott's catting the red cross of St. George from the flag of England. He was so opposed to all suggestions of papacy that he argued that a banner bearing a cross was improper in a Puritan commonwealth, and without fear of magistrates or of the offence to his sovereign he deliberately removed the obnoxious emblem of the church. For this act he was disfranchised for one year, by the au- thorities of the colony, though they secretly sympathized with him, but feared the effect the act would produce upon the future relations between the king and the colony. The Town Pump that Hawthorne wrote about in "A Rill from the Town Pump," is commemorated by the site of the old town pump in Town House square, which is approximately marked by a circular stone bearing the letter "H". See chapter on Haivthorne, page 61. The Watch House was first a part of the town, court and school house when the latter was removed to the middle of Washington street in 1676. The watch house was probably a small ell. In 1712. 174 visitor's guide to salem this little room was added to the school room, and a new watch house was built on the north side of the square in Washington street, midway between what is now the Northey block and the Neal and Newhall building. It was a little more than a large sentry box, and upon its top was a carved wooden, life-size figure of a soldier, bear- ing upon its breast the legend "Anna Regina, 1712." On this spot two cannon were mounted in the early days. Washington Street may be said to have been the only "street" in Salem for many years after its settlement, having been laid out, four rods wide, in the original laying out of the town, about 1629. The other early paths, including Essex street, were narrow, crooked ways. CHAPTER XIII. Prominent Citizens and Visitors. Gen. Stephen Abbot (1749-1813), an officer in the Revolution and first colonel of the Salem Cadets, lived at 21 Federal street, where he entertained Wasliington in 1789. President John Adams ( 1735-1826) as a young lawyer frequent- ly visited Salem while riding the eastern circuit and while here he stopped with his brotlier-in-law, Richard Cranch, who lived on Mill street. In 1769 John Adams tried a murder case in the old court house in Town House square, appearing for the defendant. William Allen (1602-1678) one of the Old Planters, lived in a house that formerly stood on the western corner of Essex and Elm streets. Gov. John A. Andrew (1818-1867), Civil War Governor of Massachusetts, frequently visited the Andrew house, 13 Washington square, West, to escape the cares of public office. He also was en- tertained by Hon. Robert S. Rantoul at 17 Winter street. President Chester A. Arthur (1830-1886) visited the Essex In- stitute and the Peabody Museum on Sept. 8, 1882, having driven into Salem from Marblehead, where he was entertained after landing from the U. S. S. Despatch, while on a cruise in eastern waters. Rev. Thomas Barnard (1748-1776) pastor of the North church, and a central figure in the affair at the North Bridge, February, 1775, lived at that time in the large gambrel-roofed house now nestling among noble elms and buttonwoods, at 395 Essex street. Rev. Brown Emerson afterwards lived there. (175) 176 VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM Beif-ley: Gov. Jonathan Belcher (1682-1757) was the guest of Chief Justice Lynde on Feb. 28, 1739 at his house formerly on the site of the Lynde Block, 145 Essex street. Prof. Alexander Graham Bell (1847- ) conducted many of the experiments and tests which led to his invention of the telephone in the Saunders house, 292 Es- sex street, on the site of the Y. M. C. A. building. Rev. William Bentley (1759-1819), historian, patriot, radical and scholar, lived in the house numbered 106 Essex street. He was pastor of the East Church from 1783 until his de- cease. His diary has been published in four large volumes by the Essex Institute. Rev. Charles T. Brooks (1813-1883), the essayist and poet, resided at 38 Washington square, South. Nathaniel Bowditch (1773-1838), eminent mathematician, was born. March 26, 17 73 in a house that formerly stood at 2 Brown street, but is now in the rear, at the end of Kimball court. During the last years of his residence in Salem he lived at 312 Essex street. Rev. SainiicJ Johnson, a noted liberal preaclier, eminent scholar and writer, the author of "Oriental Religions." was also l^orn in this liouse. Gov. Simon Bradstreet (1603-1697). Colonial Governor of Massachusetts, lived and died in a house formerly on the site of the museuem building of the Essex Insti- tute. He was buried in the Charter street l)urving ground. Gov. ' William Burnett (1688-1729) convened the General Court in the old Sa- lem Town House in 1728 and 1729. ^OY(ditc\\ PROMI-XKNT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 177 George Cabot (1751-1823), the distinguished Federalist and president of the Hartford convention, was born in a house formerly on the site of the Empire Theatre, 285 Essex street. Rufus Choate (1799-1859), "the wizard of the bar," while liv- ing in Salem, occupied the house, 14 Lynde street, and also lived at 1 14 Federal street. Gen. William Cogswell (1838-1895), lived in the large brick West block, 7 Summer street. He was an able General in the Civil War, mayor of Salem and member of Congress. He was buried from the Tabernacle Church with military honors. John Singleton Copley (1737-1815), the celebrated artist, came to Salem in 1767 or 1768 and lived in the Ruck house, 8 Mill street. While here he painted many notable portraits. His son, subsequent- ly Lord Lyndhurst, Lord Chancellor of England, was brought here Avhile an infant. Giles Corey (1616-1692) lived on the site of 46 Boston street, before his removal to his last residence in what is now West Pea- body. He was pressed to death for refusing to plead at the time of the witchcraft trials, the only time in America this penalty was in- flicted. Benjamin W. Crowninshield (1772-1851), member of Con- gress and Secretary of the Navy under Madison and Monroe, lived at 180 Derby street, the house now being occupied by the "Old Ladies' Home". King Edward VII. (1841-1910), then Prince of Wales, was re- ceived, on his Eastern tour, by the city government of Salem, Oct. 20, 1860. The affair M-as most amusing. The mayor and alderman had been provided with an enclosure placed against the iron fence of the tunnel, just at its entrance from the railroad station, and the length of the train between the engine driver's cab and the platform of the Prince's car had been measured and a mark made on the side of the tunnel opposite which the engine driver was to stop in order to bring the Prince's platform against the enclosure containing the mayor and aldermen. But before the train left Boston another car was added between the engine and the Prince's car, bringing the 178 VISITOR^S GUIDE TO SALEM platform of the latter, when it came to a standstill, a rod or two away from rhe city governmentr Signals were made to the engine- driver to start up his train, and he, supposing the function had been for some reason abandoned, pushed on into the tunnel. As soon as possible the city government broke loose from their enclosure, made their way through the dense mass of people, followed the tra,in into the tunnel, aixi some of them, including His Honor the Mayor, suc- ceeded in getting on board, while others returned to the upper air, and a few, unable to face the grotesque situation, pursued their way on foot to the northern end of the tunnel, where they emerged. His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales was graciously pleased to re- mark that he was delighted with what he saw of the ancient city of Salem. Gov. John Endecott (1589-1665), lived in "a faire house" whose oaken frame had l)een brought from England and set up at Cape Ann and afterward removed to Salem and located near what is now 53 Washington street. Judge William Crowninshield Endicott (1826-1900) was born in the house now the Old Ladies' Home, 180 Derby street, and in after life lived for some thirty 3'ears in the Cabot house, 365 Essex street. He became Justice of the Supreme Judicial Court, and Secretary of War under President Cleveland. Prof. Moses G. Farmer (1820-1893) lived at 11 Pearl street and later, at 316 Essex street. He invented an electric lamp in 1859, and afterwards constructed, for the city of Boston, the first successful electric fire alarm. Rev. Joseph B. Felt (1789-1869), the historian, and author of "Annals of Salem," and other historical works, resided at 27 Nor- man street. Gov. Thomas Gage (1720-1787) transferred the seat of gov- ernment to Salem in June, 1774 and during that summer he lived at the Hooper house in Danvers, guarded by a regiment of British reg- ulars. Hon. Benjamin Goodhue (1748-1814), United States senator, 1796-1800, was born at 70 Boston street. Here also was born, Jan. PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 179 11, 1812, Dr. Henry Wheatland, the founder of the Essex Insti- tute. Senator Goodhue also lived at 403 Essex street. President Ulysses S. Grant (1822-1885) passed through the city in a train, Oct. 17, 1871, and was received by the city govern- ment, upon a temporary platform erected in Washington street, to which the President stepped from his car and addressed a few words to the people. Hon. William Gray, Jr. (1750-1825) was born in Lynn but came to Salem at an early age and became one of the greatest mer- chants and ship-owners in the country. He lived in a mansion formerly where the New Essex House stands today. His counting room (destroyed in the great fire of 1914) was at 311 Derby street. He was Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts in 1810-11. Alexander Hamilton (1757-1804) visited Salem June 20, 1800 and was entertained at the Benjamin Pickman house, 165 Essex street. Five years later the new Assembly Hall on Chestnut street was built and named iii his honor. Capt. Jonathan Haraden (1745-1803), the redoubtable com- mander of the Revolutionary privateer. Gen. Pickering, lived in the large brick house, since altered to a double tenement, 32 and 34 Charter street. President Benjamin Harrison (1833-1901) visited the Essex Institute and the Peabody Museum on Aug 12, 1893, coming from Beverly, where he was the guest of his daughter, Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-1864). Sec chapter on Haw- thorne, page 4-1-. Mrs. Sophia (Peabody) Hawthorne (1810-1871) was born at 53 Summer street. Rev. Francis Higginson (1588-1630), the first "teacher" of the Salem church, lived midway between what is now the First church and the street car office. He was the author of "New England's Plantation," and the ancestor of the American Higginsons. He came in 1629 and died the next year. 180 VISITOR S GUIDE TO SALEM H?lyol\e. Dr. Edward Augustus Holyoke (1728-1829), centenarian physician of Sa- lem, lived where the Naumkeag Building now stands, 205 Essex street. The Essex Institute has his professional journals re- cording a medical practice of eighty years' duration. He was the first president of the old Philosophical Society, of the Sa- lem Athenaeum, and of the Essex Histor- ical Society ; the friend and correspondent of leading men of science and letters, ac- tive in every public enterprise, especially in building the Salem and Boston Turn- pike ; and seven months before his death, presided at a dinner of the Massachusetts Medical Society, given in his honor, on his one hun- dredth birthdav. His portrait is at the Institute. President Andrew Jackson (1767-1845) visited Salem, June 26, 1833 and passed the night at the "Mansion House" which then stood nearly opposite the head of Central street. On the following day before breakfast he visited the museum of the East India Marine Society and other points of interest, and at nine o'clock left for Lowell. Rev. Samuel Johnson (1822-1882), liberal preacher, eminent scholar and author of "Oriental Religions," was born at 2 Brown street. The building is now in the rear at the end of Kimball court. Louis Kossuth (1802-1894) the Hungarian patriot, was enter- tained in Salem, May 6, 1852, being welcomed in front of the Es- sex House by the mayor, Hon. Charles W. Upham, in an eloquent address, and later driven about the city. Marquis de Lafayette (1757-1834') visited Salem Oct. 29, 1784 and was entertained at the Assembly Hall, 138 Federal street. He again visited Salem Aug. 31, 1824 and was accorded a grand ovation by sailors at the hill on Lafayette street and by the school children on the Common. He was welcomed by Judge Story in front of the Essex House on his arrival. The hotel was then known as the Essex PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 181 Coffee House. Lafayette spent the night there and for a short time after it was called the Lafayette Coffee House. He dined at Hamilton Hall, with three hundred guests, and was entertained by Judge Story at 26 Winter street in the evening. That the Marquis was pleased with his reception in Salem appears from two accounts of his American tour, printed in France on his return home.* During his visit he was, several times, at and near Washington Square, and an elaborate arch was erected at the head of Winter street from which hung a decoration printed on American duck woven at the factory of William Gray, which is still standing in Spring street, and has been occupied by the Pulsifers, as a carpet factory, and a paint shop, — by the Hon. David M. Little for boat building, and by Ross Turner as a studio. This decoration is now at the Essex Institute and bears a verse composed by the late George C. Chase, then a bookkeeper at the duck factory. The verse is as follows, and is perpetuated in several of the memoirs of Lafayette's last visit to America : — "While winds shall blow, and seas shall roll, While aught remains that's good and great, Our NATIVE DUCK, from pole to pole, Shall waft the fame of LA-FAYETTE." Gen. Frederick West Lander (1822-1862), brave officer in the Civil War, was born at 5 Barton square. Educated as a civil engi- neer, he was employed by the government to report on the feasibility of a railroad to the Pacific. He also constructed the great wagon- road which made the railroad possible, and on one of his surveys, undertaken at his own expense, he was the only member who re- turned alive. In 1861, when Sumter fell, he was in Texas on a secret embassy from the government, and escaped with great diffi- culty at the last moment, bringing important advices to Washing- ton. He was made a brigadier. May 17th, and in June was assigned to a command on the upper Potomac. He was shot in the leg in the * "In each of these towns, he was the object of the same demonstrations; but it was at Salem that the brilHancy of his reception was particularly marked; the rain that fell in torrents did not damp the ardor of anybody. Here and at Beverly he attempted in vain to dismiss the civic escorts which attended him; the very children, for once, refused to obey him." Voyage dU'' ■Oenerol Lafayette aux Etats-Unis d' Amereque: Paris, J82b. 182 visitor's guide to salp:m ■ disastrous battle at Ball's Bluff. His wound had not healed when he reported for duty to General Hancock, in January, 1862. His death was announced March 3d, in a special order from General McClellan. His remains were brought here, and, after lying in state at the City Hall, were buried from the South Church with a de- gree of pomp and ceremony unequalled since the funeral honors ac- corded, in 1813, to Lawrence and Ludlow. Gov. -Levi Lincoln (1782-1868) was entertained by Rev. Dr. Brazer at his home, 1 7 Winter street, now occupied by Hon. Robert S. Rantoul. Hon. George Bailey Loring (1817-1891), member of Congress, commissioner of agriculture under Presidents Garfield and Arthur, and minister to Portugal under Harrison, lived in the house, now much altered, 328 Essex street, and here on several occasions enter- tained President Pierce. Abiel Abbot Low (ISl 1-1893), eminent merchant of New York city, philanthropist and benefactor of Salem, was born on P>deral street. Hon. Benjamin Lynde (1666-1745), Chief Justice of the Province of Massachusetts Bay, 1729-1745; his son, bearing the same name and holding the same office ; and Judge Andrew Oliver, son of Lieutenant-Governor Oliver, in turn occupied the house that formerly stood on the present site of the Lynde -Block, 145 Essex street. Gen. George B. McClellan (1826-1885) passed the day in Sa- lem, Feb. 5, 1863, was tendered a public reception at the Essex House in the morning and later a breakfast at the mansion of George Peabody, 29 Washington square. Samuel Mctntire (1757-1811). eminent architect and carver in wood lived at 29 Summer street. His shop was at 6 Chestnut street. Examples of his carving may be seen at the museum of the Essex Institute. Thomas Maule (164 5-1724'), whose name is famous from his connection with the Quakers, built, about 1690, and occupied the PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 183 house that formerly stood at 331 Essex street. He figures in the "House of the Seven Gables." Gen. James Miller (1776-1851, the hero of Lundy Lane in the War of 1812, Governor of Arkansas, 1819-1825, and GoUector of the port of Salem, 1825-1849, lived at 180 Derby street, now the '•Old Ladies' Home". President James Monroe (1758-1831) visited Salem, July 8, 1817, coming from Alarblehead, and was present at the opening of the new Town House and Market. On the next day he lunched with Senator Silsbee, at 94 Washington square ; dined at Secretary Crowninshield's, now the Old Ladies' Home ; and was entertained in the evening by Judge Story at his house, 26 Winter street. The next evening he attended a ball at the house of Stephen White, 31 Washington square, and left for the East on the following morning. Capt. Richard More (1614-1696) was buried in the Charter street cemetery and his gravestone, still standing and in good condi- tion, is the only contemporary gravestone of a "Mayflower" passen- ger, on its voyage of 1621, known to exist. Rev.- Edward Norris ( 1579-1659) lived, from 1649 until his death in 1659, at what is now 90 Washington street. He was the pastor of the First church, 1640-1659. Rev. Nicholas Noyes (1647-1717), the pastor of the First church at the time of the witchcraft delusion, lived at what is now 74 Washington street. Gen. Henry Kemble Oliver (1800-1885) lived at 142 Federal street and named his famous tune "Federal Street" after this street. He was mayor of Lawrence and of Salem, being almost the organ- izer of Lawrence, in a municipal sense, for he was mayor in her first years and arranged the plan of her parks, public buildings, schools and churches, securing unity in the general design, and choosing the bells to be placed on engine-houses, cotton-mills, schools and churches, so that they made a harmonious chime. He was also at different times a teacher in Salem, organist of the North church, musical composer and bass singer, adjutant-general, and treasurer 184 visitor's guide to SALEM and receiver-general of the state, and treasurer of Lawrence Mills. He occupied the municipal chair of Salem on his eight- ieth birthday. Benjamin Peirce (1809-1880), pro- fessor of mathematics in Harvard college was born in the Tontine Block, 29-35 War- ren street, which was destroyed in the great fire of 1914. He was among the most em- inent men of science in his day and was at the head of the United States coast sur- vey when he established the meridians which regulate and control the standard time of the continent. The late Lincoln Flagg Brigham, chief- justice of the superior court, resided at No. 29 Warren street. Sir William Pepperrell (1696-1759), the captor of the Louis- burg, was given a dinner July 4, 1746, in the old Town House. Rev. Hugh Peter (1599-1660), the successor of Roger Williams, as pastor of the church in Salem, lived in the ancient house, that early occupied the site of the present Price block, where the street car office is now located. He came here in 1636; became much interest- ed in the development of the business and commerce of the colony, promoting the building of vessels, etc., and in 1641 went to England in behalf of those interests, becoming involved with Oliver Crom- well in the fight for the Commonwealth, and upon the Restoration was charged as an accessory in causing the death of the King was executed at Charing Cross, Oct. 13, 1660, beheaded, drawn and quartered, and liis head placed on a pole on London bridge. John Pickering, LL. D. (1777-1846). the Greek lexicographer and famous linguist, lived at 18 Chestnut street, and died in Boston, where he was city solicitor. He was a son of Col. Timothy Picker- ing. This house was also the residence of Nathaniel Hawthorne in 1846. PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 185 He died at 29 Warren Col. Timothy Pickering (1745-1829) was born in the Pickering house 18 Broad street. He was the most illustrous member of the family, and among the most conspic- uous men of Revolutionary times. He was a colonel and adjutant-general, and prom- inent among the doughty men who held the pass at North Bridge. He fought at the battles of Germantown and Brandy- wine ; while as statesman he held the offi- ces of representative and senator, and in Washington's cabinet, at diiferent times, of postmaster-general, secretary of war, and secretary of state. Both his father and son John we're also persons of distinction, street, in the "Tontine Block" which was destroyed in 1914 in the great fire. President Franklin Pierce (1804-1869) on several occasions was entertained by Hon. George B. T.oring at his home 328 Essex street. President James K. Polk (1795-1849) passed through Salem, July 5, 1347, during a pouring rain, but did not leave his carriage to visit places of interest. Gov. Thomas Pownall (1720-1805) visited Salem Oct. 22, 1757 and was entertained at the Benjamin Pickman house, 165 Essex street. Prof. Frederick W. Putnam (1839-1915), the first director of the Peabody Museum, Salem ; eminent archaeologist, naturalist, and museum director, was born at 99 Federal street. Hon. Nathan Read (1759-1849), member of Congress and in- ventor of a paddle wheel steamboat successfully tested on Danvers river in 1789, lived in a house formerly occuping the site of the Museum Building of the Essex Institute. He also built the first iron works at Waters river, Danvers, and invented machinery for cutting nails and there produced the first cut nails. A working model 186 visitor's guide T(3 SALEM of his nail cutting machine is in the museum of the Essex Institute. John Rogers (1829-1906), sculptor, whose character "groups" are everywhere familiar, was horn in the Pickman-Derby-Brookhouse house that formerly stood (until 1915) on the site of the present Masonic Temple. President Theodore Roosevelt (1858- ), during the politi- cal campaign of 1912 from an automobile addressed an audience in Town House square. Hon. Leverett Saltonstall (1783-1845), first mayor of Salem (1836), and subsequently a member of Congress, lived at 41 Chest- nut street. Samuel Shattuck (1620-1689), the Quaker, lived at 185 Essex street. He was repeatedlv fined and in^prisoned, and finally banished for his religious opinions in 1660 (?). On leaving his home, and family and property, he sailed to England, had an audience with King Charles II., and obtained an order that the extreme measures taken against the Friends be at an end. He returned, and stopped the cruelties of the colonial authorities. Gen. William T. Sherman (1820-1891) was entertained by Judge Endicott in 1890. at his residence, 365. Essex street. Hon. Nathaniel Silsbee (1773-1850), United States senator from 1826 to 1835, was born at 69 Essex street, and lived for some years in the house 2 7 and 29 Daniels street. He subsequentlv lived at 94 Washington Square, East, which he built. Now greatly changed in appearance it is occupied by the Knights of Colum- bus. President Monroe was entertained here Julv 9, 1817 ; and at a later date Senators Henry Clav and Daniel Webster. Rev. Samuel Skelton (1584-1634), the first pastor of the church in Salem, lived at what is now 14 Front street. Justice Joseph Story (1779-1845) lived at 26 Winter street in a house built by him in 181 1. Here, Feb. 12, 1819, \tas born his son, William Wetmore Story, the noted author and sculptor. The cradle of Joseph and William W. Story is now at the Institute. General Fafayette was entertained here by Judge Story, Aug. 31, 1824. Judge Story seems to have had an office, when he first came to PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 187 Salem from Marblehead, on the second floor of a wooden building on the lot now occupied by the Shepard Block, corner of North and Essex streets. He also once had an office on Wash- ington street, near Lynde. Finally he built a wooden office on the western side of his Winter street residence, on land now occupied by Charles Odell, and when the Story estate passed into other hands, this office was removed to Norman street, where it was used as an office by Dr. Benjamin Cox, and thence to Creek street, where it now stands, converted into a dwelling. President William H. Taft (1857- ) spent the summers of 1910-1912 at Beverly and frequently passed through the streets of Salem in his automobile. On Oct. 4, 1912 he unveiled the bronze tablet at the Essex Institute in memory of the officers and men of 1st Heavy Artillery, Mass. Vols., who served in the Civil War, and March 28, 1916 he delivered an address in Ames Memorial Hall. Benjamin Thompson, later Count Rumford (1753-1814), was a clerk in a store at 314 Essex street, in 1766. He was born in Wo- burn and removed to Salem, where he was employed in the shop of John Appleton. The Essex Institute has a shop-bill, receipted for Mr. Appleton, with Thompson's signature. He served in the British army during the latter part of the Revolutionary War, went to Ba- varia, and in time became commander-in-chief of the Bavarian army, and was made Count Rumford. He was also eminent in science and as an author. A colossal statue to his memory ornaments one of the avenues in the city of Munich. Rumford ovens, invented by him, are to be found in many of the larger of the old Salem houses where even now t!iey are sometimes used. Rev/Charles W. Upham (1802-1875), mayor of Salem, mem- ber of Congress and author of the standard work on "Salem Witch- craft", lived at 313 Essex street. Rev. Jones Very (1813-1880) lived and died at 154 Federal street. His noems. first collected and niililished bv Ralnh Waldo 188 visitor's guide to salem Emerson and later by James Freeman Clarke, William Page An- drews and the sisters of Mr. Very, have elicited commendations from Dr. Channing, the elder Dana, Bryant, Hawthorne, and G. W. Cur- tis. Gen. Frederick T. Ward (1831-1862) lived during his child- hood at 96 Derby street, in the house of his grandfather Townsend. The life of General Ward was romantic and adventurous. He ob- tained his title by organizing and drilling Chinese troops, which, under his leadership, had such a success during the Tai Ping rebel- lion that they came to be known as "the ever-victorious army." After his death a temple was dedicated to him, and, by Imperial mandate, he was worshipped as a deity. The English General Gordon was ap- pointed to succeed him. At the Essex Institute is a memorial library (over 3000 volumes) of books relating to China and the Chinese, to- gether with personal relics of Ward and his Chinese wife, and the bullet by Avhich he died in battle. George Washington (1732-1799) was presented to the towns- people on the occasion of his visit to Salem, Oct. 29, 1789 from the balcony of the Town and Court House which formerly stood in the center of what is now Washington street, nearly opposite the present Tabernacle church. He entered the town from Marblehead, passing from Lafayette street, then a rural lane with gates across it, through Mill, High and Summer streets to upper Federal street, and thence down Federal, reviewing the military, he repaired to the court house. Here he stood on the balcony while odes were sung and welcomes tendered and the people shouted themselves hoarse. Senator Good- hue presented him the formal address. Here, too, his features were scanned by Mclntire who was seated at a window near by, and a profile bas-relief executed in wood, which for years adorned the fine architectural gateway at the western entrance of the Common, was the result of a sketch then made. This is now at the Essex Institute. I,ater the President called at the house of Major Saunders, who com- manded his body-guard, the cadets, and also at the Chase house, both in Federal street, and between seven and nine o'clock honored with his presence a ball at the Assembly house. There were guns and bells and flights of rockets, and the court house was illuminated. The PROMINENT CITIZENS AND VISITORS 189 President passed the night in the northeast chamber, second floor, of the mansion of Joshua Ward, now the Washington House, 148 Wash- ington street, a fine brick mansion house which was placed at his service by the family. He left for Beverly and the East in the morn- ing. In his famous diary he made this entry: "Between 7 and 8 o'clock went to assembly, where there was at least a hundred hand- some and well-dressed ladies, ... a greater portion with much blacker hair than are usually seen in the Southern States." There is evidence that Washington, when a voung man, had been in Salem, on a visit to the Clark family, and perhaps also during the siege of Boston. Daniel Webster (1782-1852) frequently visited Salem in the course of his legal practice. In 1830 he was counsel in the famous White murder trial and on other occa.sions was entertained by Sena- tor Silsbee, 94 Washington Square, East. His son Col. Fletcher Webster, who was killed at the second battle of Bull Run, was mar- ried at 3 1 Washington square. Roger Williams (1599-1683), a successor of Mr. Higginson. lived in his house about midway between what is now the First Church and the street car office. He was a redoubtable champion of religious freedom, a man of such virile nature and persistency that banishment was adjudged necessary by the colonial magistrates. In a sick condition, Williams fled into the wilderness in the depth of winter to the wigwam of Massasoit at Plymouth where he remained for several months recovering from severe illness. He then went to what is now Rhode Island, secured a grant of territory, and founded a free state. Henry Winthrop (1608-1630), son of Governor Winthrop, is supposed to have been drowned near the North Bridge on July 2 1630. He had arrived in the ship "Talbot," July 1, and was drowned the following day while crossing the North river to visit an Indian settlement or camp. John Woodbury, one of the old Planters, erected his homestead at what is now 218 Essex street. ^Joseph E. Worcester (1784-1865), compiler of Worcester's Dictionary, at one time conducted a private school in a building' CHAPTER XIV. List of Portraits Exhibited in the Public Institutions IN Salem. (C. A.)— Cadet Armory; (C. E.)—City Hall; (Ct. H.)— Court House: (E. I.)— Essex Institute; (N. 8.)— State Normal School; (P. M.J— reahodji Museum; (P. L.) — Piihlic Lihrarij ; (R. MJ^Ropes Memorial; . (S. M. S.) — Salem Marine Societi/. Abbot, Rev. John Emery, 1793-1819, minister. North Church, Salem. Miniature bv Miss Goodrich. (E. I.) Abbot, Eev. John Emery, 1793-1819. Silhouette. (E. I.) Abbott, Gen. Stephen, 1749-1813, Revolutionary officer. By George Southward. (C A.) Adams. John Quincy, 1767-1848. Sixth President of the United States. ' (E. I.) Allen, Edward, 1735-1803, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) Allen, Edward, 1763-1845, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) Allen. John Fiske, 1806-1876, merchant of Salem. Miniature. (P. M.) Allen, John Fiske, 1806-1876. Miniature by George Newcomb, 1829. ' ' (E. I.) Allen, Pickering Dodge, 1838-1863, as a child. By Charles Osgood (E. I.) Allen, Pickering Dodge, 1838-1863, soldier in Civil War, by Wm. Henry Furness. (E. I.) Appleton, Capt. William, 1765-1822. master mariner. (E. I.) Bancroft, Lieut. George C, 1837-1864. Killed in the Rebellion. (C. A.) Barnard, Rev. Edward, 1720-1774, minister at Haverhill. By Copley. (E. I.) Barnard, Capt. Edward. 1781-1858, master mariner. (8. M. S.) Barnard, Rev. Thomas, 1748-1776, minister. North Church, Salem. Bas-relief in wax. (E. I.) Barnard, Rev. Thomas, 1748-1776. Silhouettes (3). (E. I.) Barr, Capt. James, 1754-1848, master mariner. Painted at Leg- horn in 1806. (P. M.) Bayley, James, 1803-1852, merchant of Boston. By Chester Harding. (E. I.) (190) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 191 Bayley, Samuel K., of Boston. Miniature, 1829. (3. I.) Becket, Capt. John, 1746-1804, master mariner. About 1820. (P. M.) Becket, Capt. John, Jr., 1776-1816, master mariner. Bv Horne- mann, 1808. " " (P. MJ Benson, Capt. Samuel. 1790-1862, master mariner. (P. M.) Bentlev, Rev. William, D. D., 1759-1819, minister. East church, Salem. (E. I.) Bentley, Eev. William, D. D., 1759-1819. Bv James Frothingham. (P. M.) Bentley, Rev. William, D. D. 1759-1819. Silhouettes (2). (E. I.) Bertram, John, 1796-1882. merchant and benefactor of Salem. By Frederick P. Vinton. (P. L.) Bertram, John, 1796-1882. By Edear Parker. (P. M.) Bertram, John, 1796-1882. Copy by Miss H. Frances Osborne after Edgar Parker. (E. I.) Biglow, William, 1773-1844, educator and author. Salem and Boston. Bas-relief in wax. (E. I.) Black Hawk, 1767-1838, noted Indian. (P. M.) Blake, George Harrison, 1848-1869. By Charles Osgood. (Blake Memorial Chapel, Harmo)!!/ Grove Cemetery) Blake, Adm. Robert, 1599-1657, British Admiral. * (P. M.) Bowditch, Joseph, 1757-1824, master mariner. Miniature. (E. I.J Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838, mathematician. Copy by Miss A. W. Woodbury after Charles Osgood. ' " (E. I.) Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Bv Charles Osgood. (8. M. S.) Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. By Charles Osgood. (P. M.) Bowditch, Nathaniel, 1773-1838. Porcelain bas-relief. (E. I.J Bradatreet, Gov. Simon, 1603-1697, Governor Mass. Bay Colony. C'opj^ of painting in Massachusetts Senate chamber. (E. I.J Bradstreet, Gov. Simon. 1603-1697, copy of the original in the State House. By Joseph De Camp. (C.H.J Bridges, Capt. Henry C, 1849, master mariner. (P. M.J Eriggs, CajDl. James Buffington, 1790-1857, master mariner. (P. M.J Brooks, Rev. Charles T., 1813-1S83, Unitarian minister, author. Bas-relief in plaster. (E. I.J Brown, Capt. William, 1769-1802, master mariner, lost on Cape Cod. Miniature. (E. I.) Brown, Capt. W^illiam, 1769-1802, master mariner. (P. M.J Brown, Capt. William, 1783-1833, master mariner. (P. M.J Brownell, Lieut. Francis E. The avenger of Col. Ellsworth, 1861. By J. Harvey Young. (C.A.) Buffington, Capt. James, 17981881. master mariner. (P. 31.) Burrill, Capt. Josiah G., 1784-1832, master mariner. (P.M.) Cabot, Francis, 1757-1832, merchant of Salem and Natchez, Miss. (E. I.J 192 visitor's guide to salem Cabot, Joseph S., 1796-1874, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) Cabot, Mrs. Margaret (Orne), m.'1702, wife of John Cabot. (E.I.) Carlton, Capt. John, U. S. Naval officer, member of E. I. ^I. Soc. in 1807. Miniature by Verstile. (E. I.) C'arnes, Capt. John, 1755-1796, master mariner. (E. I.) Carpenter, Mrs. Abigail (Gerrish), 1743 , wife of Capt. Benjamin Carpenter. (E, I.) Carpenter, Capt. Benjamin, 1751-1823, master mariner. (P. M.) Carwick, Capt. Henry, 1758-1816, master mariner. (E. I.) Checkley, Dr. Richard, 1694-1742, Boston apothecary and phy- sician. (E. I.) Checkley, Mrs. Sarah (Walley), 1695 , wife of Dr. Eich- ard Checkley. (E. I.) Chever, Edward E., 1828-1905, California pioneer. By J. Harri- son Mills. (E. I.) Choate, George Francis, 1822-1888, Judge of Probate. By Fred- eric P. Vinton. (Ct.E.) Choate, Rufus, 1799-1859, jurist, U. S. Senator. By Joseph Ames. (Ct. II.) Clark, Maj. John Gedney, 1737-1784, British Army Officer. Min- iature by A. Mauvais. (E. I.) Clark, Maj. John Gedney, 1737-1784. Miniature. (E. I.) Clarke, Mrs. Deborah (Gedney), 1677 -, wife of Francis Clarke, maternal grandmother of Lord Bryan Fairfax. By Smibert. " (E. I.) Clarke, Rev. John, 1755-1798, minister, First Church, Boston. By Henry Sargent. (E. I.) Cleveland, Mrs. Elizabeth (Hodges), 1789-1834, wife of George. Silhouette. (P. M.) Cleveland, George, 1781-1840, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (P. M.) Cleveland, George William, 1812-1848, merchant of Salem. By J. Metzer, Antwerp, 1835. (P. M.) Cleveland, Cajit. William, 1777-1842, master mariner. By St. Memin. (P.M.) Cole, Thomas, 1779-1852, teacher and scientist. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) Cook, Capt. James, 1728-1772, navigator and discoverer. By Corne, 1803. ' (P. M.) Cook, Capt. Samuel, 1769-1861, master mariner. Silhouette. (E. I.) Cromwell, Oliver, 1599-1658, An old portrait. By Sir Peter Lely? (E.I.) Crosby, Alpheus, 1810-1874, educator. By E. T. Billings. (N.S.) Crosby, Mrs. Martha (Kingman), 1833-1915. educator. By E. T. Billings. (N.8.) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 193 Crowninshieid, Capt. Benjamin, 1758-1836, master mariner. By Miss Alary Giilliver, after a miniature. (P. M.) Crowninshieid, Jacob, 1770-1808, merchant of Salem, M. C. By Robert Hinckley, after a miniature. (P. M.) Curwen, Capt. George, 1610-1685, merchant of Salem. (E. I.) Cnrwen, Eev. George, 1683-1717. minister First Church, Salem. (E.l.) Curwen, George Rea, 1823-1900. antiqviarian. By Charles Os- good, 1860. (E.I.) Curwen, Mrs. Priscillu (Barr), 1788-1863, mother of George E. Curwen. By Charles Osg-ood, 1849. (E.I.) Curwen. Judg-e Samuel, 1715-1802." By Blyth, 1772. (E. I.) Curwen, Judge Samuel, 1715-1802. Silhouette, London, 1786. (E.I.i Curwen, Mrs. Sarah (Pickman), 1718-1810, wife of George Curwen. (E. I.) Curwen, Aliss Sarah, 1742-1773, daughter of the last named. Pastel bv Blvth, 1772. (E. I.) Gushing, Caleb. 1800-1879, jurist and diplomat. (Ct. H.) Cushing, Thomas, 1725-1788, leader in Eevolutionary War and. Lieutenant-Governor of Massachusetts. By Joseph Badger. (E. I.) Cutler, Eev. Alanasseh, 1742-1823, minister, member of C'on- gress,- and scientist. Bv Lakeman. (E. I.) Cutler, Eev. Manasseh, 1742-1823. Copy by Miss A. W. Wood- bury after Lakeman. (E. I.) Dabney, John, 1752-1819, postmaster of Salem for many years. Aliniature by Verstille, 1809. (E. I.) Dabney, Jonathan Peele, 1793-1868, Unitarian minister. Pastel At the age of thirteen. (E. I.) r>alton, Lt. Col. J. l-'rank, Commander Salem Cadets. By Charles C. Eedmond. _ (G. A.) Dalton, Adj. Gen. Samuel C, Commander Salem Cadets. By Charles C. Eedmond. (0. A.) Dane, Nathan, 1752.-1835, member of Congress and jurist. Copy of the portrait in Dane Hall, Cambridge, By Mrs. David. (E. I.) Derby, Elias Hasket, 1739-1799, merchant of Salem. By James "^ Frothingham. ' (P. M.) Derby, Ezekiel Hersey, 1772-1852, merchant of Salem. By Charles Osgood." (E.I.) Derby, Mrs. Hannah Browne, 1777-1862, wife of the last named. (E. I.) Derby, Capt. John, 3rd, 1788-1829, master mariner. Pastel made in Holland. (E. I.) Derby, Richard, 1712-1783, merchant. Copy by George South- ward. (E. I.) 194 visitor's guide to salem Dodge, Israel, 1740-1822, merchant of Salem. By James Froth- ingham. , " (e. I,) Dodge, Pickering, 1778-1833, merchant of Salem. By George Southward after James Frothingham. (P, M.J Dutch, Daniel, 1765-1851, deputy sheriff. Silhouette. (E.I.J Eagleston, Capt. John Henry, "1803-1884, master mariner. By Charles Osgood. (p_ j\j.) Elkins, Cajjt. Henry, 1761-1836, master mariner. By Hirsch- mann, Holland, 1791. ' (P.M.) Emery, Capt. No.ih, , master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) Endecott, Gov. John, 1589-1665. Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony. Copy of the portrait in the Council Cham- ber, Boston, by T. Mitchell. (E. I.J Endecott, Gov. John," 1589-1665. Copy of the jjortrait in posses- sion of the family. By James Frothingham. (E. I.) Endecott, Gov. John. 1589-1665. Copy of the portrait in jiosses- sion of the family. By George Southward. (C.H.) Endicott, Judge William Crowninshield, 1826-1900, jurist and cabinet officer. C'opv by Robert Hincklev. (Ct. H.J Ellsworth, Col. Elmer E.,' 1837-1861. Shot at Alexandria, Va. By J. Harvey Young. (C.A.I Felt, EeV. Joseph F.. 1789-1869, minister, historian. By Edgar Parker. ' (p^ E.J Fenno, John Woodbridge, 1792-1859. By Charles Osgood after Chester Harding. ' (E.I.) Fettyplace, William, 1780-1867, merchant of Salem. By Charles Osgood. ' (p, M.J Fisher, Dr. Joshua, 1749-1833, physician in Beverly. (E. I.J Fiske, Capt. John Brown, 1804-1881, master mariner. By B. C. Schiller, 1846. ' (p, M.J Fiske, Mrs. Lydia Phippen, 1732, wife of Gen. John Fiske. Pastel. (E. I.J Fitch, Timothy, 1725-1790, merchant of Boston. By Copley, about 1765. ' ,' (E.I.J Fitch, Mrs. Eunice (Browne), 1731-1799, wife of the last named. By Copley, about .1765. • (E.I.) Forrester, Mrs. 'Charlotte (Story) 1788-1867, wife of John Forrester. By Stuart. (E. I. ) Forrester, Miss Louisa, 1825. By Eliza Dodge Devereux, 1896 (E. I.) Forrester, Mi's. Rachel (Hathorne), 1757-1823, wife of Simon Forrester. B3' James Frothingham. 1822. (E. I.J Forrester, Simon, 1748-1817, merchant of Salem. (E.I.J Forrester, Thomas Hely, 1790-1830. By James Frothingham. (E.I.J Forrester Children. By James Frothingham, 1822. (E. I.J PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 195 Porrestier, Augustine, 17S8-1845 to '47, merchant in East In- dies ; died at Batavia, Java. (E. I.) Foster, Maj. Samuel B., 1821-1872, Commander Salem Cadets. By J. Harvey Yonng. (C. A.) Fowler, Samuel Page, 1810-1888, antiquarian. Silhouette. (E.I.) Frazar, Amherst Alden, 1802-1876, merchant of Boston. By ^• an der Borght, Antwerp. (E. I.) Frazar, Mrs. Sarah Drew (Bradford), 1805-1868, wife of Am- herst A. Frazar. By Henry C. Pratt. (E. I.) Frye, Col. Peter, 1723-1820, registrar of Probate, loyalist. Pastel by S. P. Cutts, 1851. (E. I.) Gale, Capt. Samuel, 1783-1829, master mariner. Painted about 1820. (P.M.) Gallop, Capt. John Lovett, 1811 , master mariner of Bev- erly. (P. M.) Gerrish, Benjamin, 1714-1752, merchant, Governor of Barbados. By Greenwood. • (E. I.) Gerrish, Mrs. Margaret (Cabot), 1713-1787, wife of Governor Gerrish. By Greenwood. (E. I.) Gerr3% Nathaniel, 1783-1835. Miniature. (E. I.) Gibaut, John, 1768-1805, master mai'iuer, collector of the port of Gloucester. Pastel by Coles. At the age of fourteen. (E. I.) Gillis, Capt. James Dunlap, 1798-1835, master mariner. By K. T. Furness. 1909, after F. de Brackeleer, Antwerp, 1826. (P. M.) Goodhue, Benjamin, 1748-1814, first M. C. Essex Dist. ; U. S. Senator. Southward after J. Wright. (E. I.) Goodhiie, Jonathan, 1783-1848, merchant in New York. (E.I.) Goodridge, Ann Afaria, d. before 1848. (E. I.) Goodridge, William, d. before 1848. (E.I.) Gray, William, 1750-1825, merchant of Salem, Lt. Gov. of Mass. After Stuart. (P. U.) Green, George, music master, of Antigua, W. I. Miniature. (E. I.) Griswold, Rt. Pvev. Alexander V. 1766-1843; Bishop. Eector of St. Peter's church, Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) Hagar. Daniel Barnard, 1820-1896, educator. By C. S. Parker. CN. S.) Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804; first Secretary of the U. S. Treasury. By Trumbull. ' (E.I.) Hamilton, Alexander, 1757-1804. Bas-relief. Salem, 1805. (E.I.) Haradon, Capt. Jonathan, 1745-1803, master mariner and priv- ateersman. By George Furse, Leghorn, 1807. (P. M.) Harrison. Gen. William Henrj-, 1773-1841. Ninth President of the United States. By Abel Nichols. (E. I.) Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864, novelist. By Miss H. Frances Osborne, after photograph. (E. I.) 196 visitor's guide to SALEM Hayman, William, 1817-1855. By A H Biokmpll ^'''"^:^l^:n ""^^^^^ -i^tSr^lS e,uu.el. sale.. ^'^ '' ™' ^ W:^;;- i^--- ,^1-- -.niste. naverMH ^^^ ^'^ HiHer, Maj. Joseph, 1748-1814 Kh^^^^^^^ ^^ , (E.I.) collector of the port of Salem ^'^ °^'"^' ^"^^ ^^^^ fmt: Sept7i^iss:fitat^s^i*^^^^^ ^^-^- ^-'-«- ^- '; ""^^.^n^?;;-^ ^--nr.s^-^s:v. ..o^ Hitch. ^^-^-^ ^7^^h?S^Sr^ar^^-r - Beverly, ehaplain ^^^ ^"^ Hodges, ^Capt. Benjamin, 1754-1806, master mariner. Silhou- '^^ ''^ Hodg-es, Mrs. Elizabeth (Eopes) 1764 184n ,,r•^^ ^-r (P.M.) Hbdoes. Silhouette ^' ^'^^"^^^0, wife of Jonathan Hodg-es, George A., merchant of Salem Silhonett. ^^- ^^■ Hodges, Mrs. Hannah King- —Z ^.J'^''?"^"'^; ^ . (E.I.> Silhouette. ^ ' ^'^® °^ Capt. Benjamin. Hodges, Capt. Jonathan I7fi4 isq-? ^ . (P.M.) Hoffman, cipt. ChSeT\797;i878 „?^^^^^^ "'^""'^■- S^l^o^^ette. P. ^ j Osgood. ^^' "^^«ter mariner. By Charles Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus 172S iSoo v, •• (P.M.) James Frothingham 1728-1829, physician. By Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augustus, 1728-1829 ^^- ^'^ Holyoke, Dr. Edward Au^stus 1728 1890 q-ii .. (E- I> Holyoke, Mrs. Elizabeth (Towne) I6lll7l9^w^?r^\ ., ^^- ^> M-ard Holvoke PresirIPT.+ i v \^ A ^"® ^^ ^^v. Ed- Hopkins, Rev. Dlntel I73 4 ?8 1 4 l' ^.'^''''^ ^°"^^^- (J^. I ) Holland, John, of iniItitgy'\?oSi?e 'S ^^^^I^^.S-le-- (J^- D Hubbard,^Dr. Oliver, 1770-f8l9.'^SlS;.e^°bf Tn'na aTelTe" '^^ '"^ '"'^^1oAth^wT?d^ '°"^°^^^'' ^«^^-^«^^' ^--^- By George '^^ ^"^ ''''' 'j.^Smord'^'^^^'' ^^'^-^^^^' —«"- -t law. By John '^^ ''^ Jackson President Andrew, 1767-1845 Bv Mai P V w r^ . rC*^. F.^ Jayne, John, Salem schoolmaster. S ilh?uft?e Earle.•rr^ /7.; Keith, Lord James, Lord Marshal of c;!!r:+io J ,.. (^-I-) iature iviarsnal ot Scotland, 1696-1758. Min- |!nf; |S: S-- '-t'/stl: r^ raSSJ; »"'-"- r- ■■> King, Mrs. Henry. Miniature manner. ^p ^^ r^. I.) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 197 King, Capt. Henry Franklin, 1811-1888, master mariner. By Charles Osgood. (P. M.) King, James Bailey, 1808-1865. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) King, John Glen, 1787-1857, lawyer. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) King, John Glen, 1787-1857. Copy by Frank W. Benson after Charles Osgood. (G. H.) King, Capt. Kobert Watts, 1814-1840, master mariner. (P. M.) Kirkland, Eev. John T., 1770-1840. President of Harvard Col- lege, 1810-1828. (E.I.) Kittredge, Abner, 1807-1884. By T. B. Lawson, 1880. (E. I.) Kittredge, Mrs. Ann M. (Towne), 1817-1899, wife of Abner Kittredge. By T. B. Lawson, 1885. (E. I.) Kittredge, Henry A., 1843 , as a child. By T. B. Lawson, 1855. (E. I.) Knight, John Buttolph, 1803 , custom house official. Miniature. (E. I.) Lafayette, Marquis de. Copy by Osgood after S. F. B. Moi'se. (C. H.) Lambert, Jonathan, . Miniature. (E. I.) Lambert, Samuel, . Miniature. (E.I.) Lamson, Asa, Jr. . Silhouette. (E. I.) Lander, Capt. William, 1788-1834, master mariner. (P. M.) Lang, Daniel, 1784-1826. Bas-relief in wax by Kauschner, Salem, 1810. (E. I.) Lang, Mrs. Dolly, 1784-1867. Bas-relief in wax by Rauschner, Salem, 1810. (E.I.) Lang, Hannah, 1782-1845. Bas-relief in wax bv Eavischner, Salem, 1810. " (E. I.) Lang, Nathaniel, 1757-1824. Bas-relief in wax by Rauschner, Salem, 1810. (E.I.) Lang, Nathaniel, Jr., 1780-1851. Bas-relief in wax by Rausch- ner, Salem, 1810. (E.I.) Leavitt, Capt. Henry, 1803-1830, master mariner. (E.I.) Lee, Mrs. Harriet Paine (Rose), 1804-1885, wife of John C. Lee. Miniature. (E. I.) Lee, John C, 1804-1877, banker. Silhouette. (E. I.) Lee, Col. William R., 1745-1824, Revolutionary officer. Minia- ture by Hancock, 1805. " (E. I.) Lefavour, Capt. Joseph, 1853, master mariner. (P. M.) Le Mercier, Rev. Andrew, 1692-1764, minister in Boston. An old portrait, inscribed "in Christo vita est moriar Mer- cerus in Illo." By Greenwood. (E. I.) Lendholm, Capt. Frederick, 1820-1863, master mariner. (P. M.) Lendholm, Mrs. Rebecca M., 1819-1872, wife of Capt. Frederick. (P.M.) Leverett, Sir John, 1616-1679, Governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony. An old portrait, attributed to Sir Peter Lely. (E. I.) 198 visitor's guide to salem . Lincoln, Abraham, 1809-1865, Copy of the bust by Volk. (Custom House) Lord, Judoe Otis Phillips, 1812-1884, jurist. 13y Frederick P. Vinton. (Ct. H.) Loring, Mrs. Mary T. (Pickman), 1816-1878, wife of Gen. Georg-e E. Loring. (E. I.) Lovett, Augustus, 1812-1860, of Beverly. (E.I.) LoAV, Abiel Abbot, 1811-1893. merchant and philanthropist. By Piatt P. Eyder. (C. H.) Lynde, Mrs. Mary, 1679-1753, wife of Chief Justice Benjamin Lynde. (E. I.) Mack, Elisha, 1783-1852, first judge of Salem Police Court. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) Mack, Miss Esther, daughter of the last named. Silhouette. (E. I.) Mack, Mrs. Harriet, 1792-1848, wife of Judge Elisha Mack. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) Mack, Miss Harriet O., daughter of the last named. Silhouette. (E. I.) Madison, Mr.s. Dolly P., 1772-1849. Crayon portrait presented by her to Daniel Webster. (E. I.) McLean, C'apt. Hugh, 1770 , master mariner. Painted at Palermo, 1809. (P. M.) Mann, Horace, 1796-1859, educator. By J. Harvey Young. (N. 8.) Mansfield, C'apt. Charles, 1801-1868, master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) Martineau, Harriet, 1802-1876, Eng-lish authoress. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) Mason, David, 1726-1794, Revohitionary officer. Dej)osited by Hon. David Mason Little. (E.I.) Mason, Thomas, merchant. Pastel. (E. I.) Matchford, Sarah, . Silhouette. (E.I.) Morse, Prof. Edward Sylvester, 1838 . By Frank W. Benson, 1913. (P.M.) Moseley, Ebenezer, 1781-1854, counsellor at law. By Miss Wil- liams. (Ct. H.) Moulton, Henry P., 1844-1904, counsellor at law. By Frank W. Benson. "^ (Ct. H.) Moulton, Mrs. Oljive O. . Silhouette, 1850. (E. I.) Mudge, William P., 1863, killed at Lookout Moimtain. (C. A.) Mugford, Capt. William, 1762-1840, master mariner. (P.M.) Neal, Nathan Ward, 1797-1850, merchant of Salem. By Fran- cis Alexander. (P. M.) Nelson, Lord Horatio, 1758-1805, English admiral. (E. I.) Nichols, Dr. Andrew, 1785-1853, physician at Danvers ; first President Essex County Natural History Society. By Miss Sarah Nichols. (E. I.) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 199 Oliver, Dr. B. Lynde, 1788-1843, lawyer and author. Silhouette. (E.I.) Oliver, Gen. Henry K., 1800-1885, composer, mayor of Salem. By Adelaide Cole. ' (('. H.) Oliver, Gen. Henry K., 1800-1885. (E. I.) Oliver, Mrs. Sarah (Cook), 1801-1866, wife of Gen. Henry K. Oliver. (E. I.) Oliver, William Gardner, 1809-1828.. mariner. Miniature. (E. I.) Orne, Charles Henry, 1788-1816. Silhouette. (R.M.) Orne, Elizabeth Ropes, 1818-1842, aged 3 years. By James Frothing-ham. Also at 21 years by Chai'les Osgood. (R. M.) Orne, Joseph. Silhouettes (2) (E.I.) Orne, Joseph, 1796-1818. By Abel Nichols. (R. M.) Orne, Joseph, 1796-1818. Silhouette. (R.M.) Orne, Caj^t. Joseph, 1806, master mariner, murdered at Mocha. Miniatures (2) (E.I.) Orne, Mrs. Dr. Joseph. Pencil sketch by IMiss Sally Allen. (E. I.) Orne, Josiah, 1768-1825, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) Orne, Mrs. Sally Fiske (Eopes). 1795-1876, wife of Joseph Orne. By Abel Nichols. (R. M.) Orne, JSIrs. Sally Fiske (Itopes), 1795-1876. Silhouette. (R.M.) Orne, William, 1752-1815, merchant of Salem. By Charles Os- good (?) after Stuart. (R.M.) Orne, William, 1753-1815, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) Orne, W^illiam, 1752-1815, merchant of Salem. By Charles Osgood after Stuart. " (E.I.) Page, Samuel, 1778-1834, master mariner. (8. M. S.) Paine, Mrs. Ann C. (Sturgis), 1797-1892, wife of William Paine. By Charles Osgood. (E. I.) Paine, Mrs. Frederick W., 1797-1892. By Cliarles Osgood. (E. I.) Paul I., Emperor of Biissia, 1754-1801. Painted in Russia. (E. I.) Peabody, Capt. Brackley Rose, 1798-1874, master mariner. (P. M.) Peabody, Francis, 1801-1867, merchant of Salem. By Miss Francis Chamberlain after Richard ^SI. Stagg. (P. M.) Peabody, Georg-e, 1795-1869, philanthropist. By A. Bertram Schell, 1869. (E. I.) Peabody, George, 1795-1869, philanthropist. By A. Bertram Schell, 1869. ' (P. M.) Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844, merchant of Salem. By Charles Osgood. ■ (P. M.) Peabody, Joseph, 1757-1844, merchant of Salem. Silhouette. (E.I.) Pepperrell, Sir William, 1696-1759, naerchant, captor of Louis- burg, 1745. (E.I.) Pepperrell, Sir William, 1746-1816, grandson of the last named. Medallion. . (E: I.) ■^^^ visitor's guide to SALEM "^^''^''liw'^"*^^^ Jonathan Cogswell, 1809-1877, counselor at ' Perry, Rev. Gardner B., 1783-1859, minister at Groveland ^^^'^'^ naturalist. By Chester Harding. ^io%eiand, Philhps Stephen C, 1801-1857, merchant and second mayor ^ ^^ of Salem. By Georg-e Southward. ^ /r, r , Phipps Capt John Adams, 1803-1866, master mariner rPM) Pickermg, Timothy, 1745-1829, Revolutionary officer member ^ ^^ of Washington's Cabinet, etc. By N. Lakeman isoe /p r , Pickering, Timothy, 1745-1829. Miniature. ■^^^^™^"' ^^^^^ ^f • f • p;nS^"' ?«"-^"^i"' 1708-1773, merchant. Bv Greenwood. (EI) Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843, merchant of Salem. Bas relief in wax. ^'Tiit-x Pickman, Benjamin, 1763-1843. Salem merchant and member ^^'^'^ ot Congress. /p r i Pickman, Benjamin, 1790-1835. Silhouette. li' / Piclvman, Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846, merchant of Salem By A. Hartwell after Cliester Harding. ^ /p .f i Pickman Dudley Leavitt, 1779-1846. Silhouette. p' Ml Poole, William F., LL. D., 1821-1894, librarian and author. ^^ By Thorpe. /w T ) Poore, Dr. Alfred, 1818-1907, genealogist. [%' }' ] Pratt, Capt. Joseph, 1745-1832, master mariner. By Henry C. Pratt. . ' ' /P If Prescott, William Hinckling. 1796-1859, historian Bv J Har vey Young. ' • * /at c i Preston, Capt. Joseph, 1780-1850, master mariner Bv Ver- ' '' voort, ]820. • ' /p ,r , Prince, Rev John. 1751-1836, minister. First church, Salem. (EI) Putnam, Allen. 1794-1868. merchant of Salem /p 'll ) Putnam, Gen Israel. 1718-1790, Revolutionary" soldier. (EI) Putnam, Perley, 1778-1864. By Charles Osgood fE T ) Putnam, Samuel, 1768-1853. Jiidge of Supreme Judicial Court T> T, 3'^^-^- ^^' ^- ^- Lazarius after Chester Harding. (Cf H ) Pynehon, William, 1590-1662, "The Founder of Springffeld ■" ' '^ inscribed ^-QuU Pynehon, Armgi Effigies Delin, Anno Dom, 1657. Aetat. 67." rP T ) Read, Charles Albert, 1812-1882, benefactor of Salem. By J Harvey "ioung. ■ rn VT ) Rhue, Capt. Thomas, 1740-1815. master mariner. About 18'>0 rp' M ) Roberts, David. 1804-1879, thirteenth mayor of Salem liy ' George Southward. ' ''FT) Robinson, Miss Lydia. 1782-1870, daughter of Col. James Bob- " ' mson. Water color by Corne. " '(PI) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 201 Eo^ei-s, Rev. John, 1666-1745, minister at Ipswich. By Smibert. (E.J.) TJog-ers, John Whiting-ham, 1786-1872, merchant of Salem. By Thomas Spear, 1872. ' (P.M.) Eog-ers. Nathaniel L., 1785-1858, merchant of Salem. (P.M.) Kogers, Iliehard Saltonstall, 1790-1873, merchant of Salem. By Robert Hinckley, 1888. (P. M.) Ropes, Abigail, 1796-1839. daughver of Nathaniel Ropes. By Charles Osgood. " (R. M.) Ropes, C'apt. Andrew, 1830-1910, master mariner. (P.M.) Ropes, David, 1739-1793, innl feaul, Joseph, . ^Miniature. ^/p j\ Saul, Capt. Thomas, 1787-1875, master mariner. /p 'i/i Saunders, Philip, 1774-1797, mariner. Miniature. (i / Scobie, Capt John J., , master mariner. About 1820 (P ' M ) bears, John Henry, 1843-1910, geologist and botanist. Bv I H Calio'a 19*^8 Seaver. Capt. JosepJi H., 1896, master mariner. %' m\ Sewall Mrs. Margaret (Mitchell), 1736, wife of Maior ' Stephen. •' Sewall Airs. Margaret (^litchell), 1736. Copy of the above. * •' Sewall Chief Justice Samuel. 1652-1730. Copy of the portrait at Mass. Hist. Soc, Boston. CF T ) Sewall, Maj. Stephen, 1657-1725, clerk of witchcraft court An old portrait. ' {F J } Sewall, Maj. Stephen, 1657-1725. Copy of the above. (E. I. and ft 'h ) Sha^y Judge Lemuel. 1781-1861. By William ]\[. Hunt. (ci H ) Sheridan, Lt. Gen. Philip H., 1831-1888, soldier. By Charles C Kedmond. ' ff n ) SMllaber, Ebenezer. Miniature. /^ j\ Silsbee, Xathanie], 1773-1850, merchant of Salem. U. S Sena- ' tor. By A. Hartwell after Chester Harding. (p ir Sparhawk, Samuel, 1744 , son of Eev. John Sparhawk, Jr. Miniature by Copley, London, 1780. (e t ) Sparhawk, IVfrs. Susanna (Crampton). Miniature by Copley ' ■ London, 1780. -^ (EI) Stone, John, 1781-1849, merchant of Salem. Silhouette (e' I ) Story, Augustus, 1812-1882, lawyer. Crayon /e t > Story, Elisha, M. D., 1743-1805, Physician of Marblehead. Min- ' lature by INIalbone. (El} Story, Mrs. Elizabeth (Marion), 1721-1748, wife of William ' Story. .^ J . Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Silhouette by Augustus Edonard, 1842 (E I ) Story Joseph, 1779-1845, Justice U. S. Supreme Court. By Charles Osgood. ' (E J ) Story, Joseph, 1779-1845. Copy by DeCamp after Charles Os- ' g-ood. • (EI) Story, Mrs. Nancy (Blood), 1790-1845 (?), wife of Capt. John Story. (E T > Story, Capt. William, 1774-1861, master mariner. By Charles Osgood. -^ (EI) Story, Capt. William, 1774-1864, master mariner (p ' i\j ) Sturgis, Mrs. Elizabeth 0. P., 1826-1911. Painted in Boston in ' ^ ^^^^- (E. I.) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 205 Sutton, Gen. William, 1.S00-1S82, commander Salem Cadets. By J. Harvey Young-. (C. A.) Taylor, Mr. and Mrs. Nathan. Silhouettes. (E. I.J Taylor, Zachary, 1784-1850. Twelfth President of the ¥nited States. By F. Alexander, 1848. (E. I.J Toll Gatherer of Beverly bridge, name unknown. (E. I.j Townsend, Capt. Penn, 1772-1846, master mariner. Miniature. (E. I.J Townsend, Mrs. Mary (]\ichardson) , 1772-1824, wife of Capt. Penn Townsend. Miniature. (E. I.) Trask, Capt. Richard, 1788-1846, of Manchester, master mari- ner. Miniature jiainted in Russia. (E. I.} Treadwell, Dr. John D., 1768-1833, physician in Salem. Sil- houette. (E. I.J Tucker, Mrs. Esther Orne (Paine), 1774-1854, wife of Ichabod Tucker. JNliniature by Miss Goodrich. (E. I.} Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846, lawyer, clei'k of courts, Essex County. ' (E. I.) Tucker, Ichabod, 1765-1846, counselor at law. Silhouette. (E. I.J Tudor, Dr. Edward, 1771-1858. Pencil drawins^. (E. I.J Tudor, Mrs. Elizabeth G., 1791-1870. Pencil drawing-. (E. I.J Upham, Rev. Charles W., 1802-1875, minister of" the First church, seventh mayor of Salem, and author of "Salem Witchcraft." By Charles Osg-ood. (E. I. ) Upham, Rev. Charles W., 1802-1875. (E. I.J Upton, Capt. Charles, 1824-1865, master mariner. (P. M.J Vanderfoi'd, Capt. Benjamin, 1787-1843, master mariner. Sil- houette. (P. M.J Very, Capt. Jones, 1790-1824, master mariner. Pencil sketch made in Paris. (E. I.J Vespncci, Amerigo, 1451-1512, discoverer. (P. M.J Walch, Robert, Salem schoolmaster. Silhouette. (E. I.J Walker. Rev. Samuel, 1779-1826, minister at Danvers. Minia- ture. . (E. I.) Ward, Capt. Andrew, 1793-1860, master mariner. By Charles Osg-ood. (P. M.J Ward, Daniel, 1782-1813. India-ink drawing- by Corne, 1803. (E. I.J Ward, Gen. Frederick Townsend, 1831-1862, born in Salem ; mandarin and general in the Tai Ping Rebellion. Crayon. (E. I.) Ward, George A., 1793-1864, author and antiquarian. (E. I.J Ward, Mrs. Mehitable (Curwen), 1741-1813, wife of Richard W^ard. (E. I.J Ward, Richard. 1741-1824. (E. I.) Ward, Richard, jr., 1776-1822. (E. I.J Ward, Samuel Curwen, 1767-1817. Oil portrait. (E. I.) 204 visitor's guide to salem Ward, Samuel Curwen, 1767-1817. India-ink drawing by Corne, 1803. - (E. I.) Ward, Mrs. Sarah Gushing (Curwen), 1769-1863. Crayon. (E. I.) Ward, Williaiji Raymond Lee, 1811-1898, merchant of Salem. (P. M.) Washington, George, 1732-1799. Copy by James Frothingham after Stuart. (C. H.) Washington, George, 1732-1799. By Jane Stuart. (C. H.) Washington, George, 1732-1799. After Stuart. (G. A.) Washington, George. 1732-1799. President of the United States. After Stuart. (E. I.) Washington. George, 1732-1799. Miniatiire by Joseph Wright, New York, 1790. (E. I.) Washington, George, 1732-1799. Bas-relief carved in wood, bv Samuel Mclntire. (E. I.) Washington, George, 1732-1799. Bas-relief (2). (E. I.) Waters, Henry F., 1833-1913, genealogist and antiquarian. By I. H. Caliga. (E. I.) Webster, Daniel, 1782-1852, statesman. (E. I.) Webster, Daniel, 1782-1852. Medallion by Wright. E. I.) West, Benjamin, 1775, of Salem ; killed at Bunker Hill. Pastel copy of a portrait by himself. (E. I.) West, Nathaniel, 1756-1851, merchant of Salem. By C. E,. Leslie. (P. M.) West, Thomas, 1778-1849, master mariner. By his son. (8. M. S.) Wheatland, Benjamin, 1801-1854, merchant of Salem. By Fran- cis Alexander. (E. I.) Wheatland, George, 1804-1893, counselor at law. By Frederic P. Vinton. (Ct. H.) Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893, antiquarian, President of the Essex Institute, 1868-1893. By Frederic P. Vinton. (E. I.) Wheatland, Dr. Henry, 1812-1893. Bv J. L. Wimbush. (E. I.) Wheatland, Mrs. Mary Eddy (Bemis), 1801-1864, wife of Ben- min Wheatland. By Francis Alexander. (E. I.) Wheatland, Capt. Uiehard, 1762-1830, master mariner. (P. M.) Wheeler, Benjamin, 1790-1874, of Peabodv. (E. I.) Whipple, Mrs. Marv Eliza, 1818-1885, of Salem. (E. I.) White, Daniel A.,* 1776-1861. Judge of Probate for Essex County, first President of the Essex Institute. By Ches- ter Harding. (E. I.) Wliite, Daniel A., 1776-1861, youthful portrait. (E. I.) White, Daniel A., 1776-1861. " Silhouette. (E. I.) White, Mrs. Eliza (Wetmore), wife of Judge D. A. ^Vhite. Silhouette. (R. M.) White, Mrs. Elizabeth (Stone), 1749-1822, wife of Capt. Jo- seph \^Tiite. Pastel. (E. I.) PORTRAITS IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS 205 White, Ca^jt. George F., , master mariner. (P. M.) White, Capt. Joseph, 1748-1830, merchant of Salem. Pastel. (E. I.) Whittredge, Henry T., — , merchantof Salem. (P. M.) Williams, Capt. Nathan, , master mariner. Silhouette. (P. M.) Wilson, Eev. Edmund B., 1820-1895, minister, North church, Salem; President of the Essex Institute. Photograph. (E. I.) Worcester, Mrs. Hannah Chubbock (Thompson), 1811-1844, wife of William Worcester. (E. I.) Worcester, Eev. Samuel, 1770-1821, minister. Tabernacle church, Salem. Silhouette. (E. I.) Worcester, William, 1807-1830. (E. I.) CHAPTER XV. Neighboring Places of Interest. BEVERLY. George Cabot (1752-1823), lived at 104 Cabot street. He was United States Senator and Representative, was offered the first port- folio of the Navy Department by President John Adams, was chosen biographer of Fisher Ames, ancestor of Senator Lodge, and president, in 1814, of the Hartford Convention. Mr. Cabot entertained Wash- ington at breakfast in this house, October 30, 1789, and thence ac- companied his illustrous guest to visit, at North Beverly, the first cotton mill in America. Beverly Historical Society, 117 Cabot street. John Cabot lived here and on the first day of September, 1824, when Mr. Cabot had left town and the fine structure was occupied by banking and in- surance offices, Lafayette was welcomed from the steps by Robert Rantoul in behalf of the town of Beverly. Edward Burley, the last occupant, bequeathed it to the Beverly Historical Society and its col- lections of relics, pictures, manuscripts and books, may be seen at all hours of the day on application at the side door on Central street. City Hall, 191 Cabot street, is a greatly transformed mansion house built by Andrew, one of the three famous Cabot brothers, Beverly's great merchants of the post-revolutionary era, to whose energy Essex Bridge and the first cotton manufactures of America are due. In it, when afterwards owned by Col. Israel Thorndike, also a successful privateersman and most eminent merchant, were en- tertained Governor Gore on his famous eastern tour in 1809, Presi- (206) NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 207 (lent Monroe at breakfast, July 10, 1817, and Daniel Webster, at dinner, in August, 1830. First Cotton Mill in America. Near the corner of Cabot and Dodge streets, formerly stood a three-story brick building, built in 1788, in which was set up the first cotton manufactory in America. A slate-stone slab, at the site of this mill, commorates a visit made Oct. 30, 1789 by Wasiiington while on his eastern tour. The First Sunday School in America was gathered in a modest house at the corner of Davis and Front streets and in a more pre- tentious one a little further on, lived the famous privateersman of the Revolution, Hugh Hill, Andrew Jackson's cousin — the terror of British commerce. Oliver Wendell Holmes. At the Farms village, leaving the flagpole on the left are two old houses on either hand just before the railroad is reached ; in the right-hand one of which Doctor Holmes lived when he dated his letters from "Beverly-Farms-by-the-Depot," and in the other lived Lucy Larcom and entertained Whittier as a guest. On Hart street may be seen Doctor Holmes's last residence at Beverly Farms, now the summer resort of Justice Holmes. Mingo Beach, with its drifting mists and broad expanse of shin- gle, took its name from a negro slave of the ancient village. Here a schooner, run ashore under British guns, June 9, 1815, was fired by a boat's crew from a hostile man-of-war. and abandoned. Rev. Andrew P. Peabody ^1811-1893), the eminent divine, was born at 154-6 Cabot street. Robert Rantoul ( 1805-1852), U. S. Senator, was born at the coi;- ner of Lothrop and Washington streets. His grave is near by. The monument bears an epitapli from the pen of Sumner. South Meeting House, Cabot street, possesses an ancient clock and a Paul Revere bell inscribed, "Revere and Sons, Boston, 1803." Near it, across the street, is the home of Nafhan Dane, who sleeps in the cemetery hard by, commemorated by an inscription from the pen of Story. This point in Beverly was made the object of a vigorous cannonade by the blockading British ship-of-war "Nautilus", of twenty guns, in 1775, when she got the range of the belfry on the 208 visitor's guide to salem old South Meeting House and attempted to enforce the surrender of an escaping privateersman by making a target of the town. DANVERS. Danvers Historical Society, 11 Page street, is housed in the Col. Jeremiah Page house, built about 1754. Here Madam Page's tea-party was held on the roof, because they had agreed to use no tea under their roof, and here General Gage had his office while liv- ing at the Hooper house in the summer of 1774. An interesting col- lection of old china, Revolutionary relics, MSS.^ etc., is exhibited, with a number of portraits including those of Dr. Amos Putnam, 1765, or earlier, the poet Whittier, Gen. Moses Porter, and A. A. Low of Brooklyn, a benefactor of the Society. Admission 10 cents. Danvers Iron Works, Waters river. Here was the iron mill and nail factory of Dr. Nathan Read in 1789. He invented machinery for cutting nails, and produced here the first cut nails. The line country residence he built for himself is on the left on an eminence beyond the grove. In 1789 he successfully tested a paddle-wheel steamboat invented and built by him, in the river, starting from his iron mill at Danversport. On board were John Hancock, Nathan Dane, Rev. Dr. Prince, and Dr. Holyoke of Salem. This was eighteen years before a similar attempt was made by Robert Fulton at New York. Danvers State Lunatic Hospital, Newbury street, was erected at a cost of about $1,500,000. The view from the hill is one of the finest in Essex County. The buildings are open only on Wednesdays and Saturdays, but the grounds are always open. Gov. John Endecott's "orchard farm," Endecott street, still pre- serves the pear tree set out about 1632. This tree, of which only sprouts remain, is claimed to be the oldest cultivated fruit tree in New England. It still bears fruit. First Parish Burying Ground. Summer street. Here are the graves of Elizabeth, wife of Rev. Samuel Parris, of witchcraft no- toriety; of Parson Wadsworth, of the Clarkes, Hobarts, and many NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 209 of the Putnams. This is probahly the oldest cemetery in Danvers. and was originally the Putnam family cemetery. Folly Hill, more recently named "Moimt Burnet," is approached from Water street, and has been described by Hawthorne. It is now crowned by the large reservoir of the Salem Water Works, which destroyed the former cellar holes of a famous mansion, built (1740- 1745) by the Hon. William Browne, a public-spirited citizen of great wealth, whose descendants removed to Virginia and intermar- ried with the Washingtons. It contained the finest ballroom in this region. It was popularly known as "Brown's Folly." The view is unsurpassed. Judge Samuel Holten (1738-1816), a famous Revolutionary pa- triot and president of the Continental Congress, lived at the corner of Centre and Holten streets. Hooper-Collins House at the end of Collins street, at the right, is the mansion house built by "King" Hooper, now known as "The Lindens." General Gage established his headquarters in this house in 1774, just after he was appointed by the King, governor of the Prov- ince, with instructions to transfer the State capital to Salem. In the field opposite was the camp of the two companies of Leslie's 64th British regiment, afterwards in the expedition to Salem, Feb. 26, 1775, and in that to Lexington, April 19, 1775. Capt. Israel Hutchinson, a gallant officer in the Revolution, lived in front of what is now the Danversport railroad station. A monument marks the spot. "Oak Knoll," the former home of the poet Whittier, is in the woods beyond the burial ground on Summer street. Peabody Institute, rear of Town House. This edifice was erected in 1892, to replace the former building that had been de- stroyed by fire. The public library and a hall are in this building, which was endowed by the philanthropist. George Peabody of Lon- don. On the edge of the pond in the rear of the Institute stands the house which was long the home of Judge Samuel Putnam. Gen. Israel Putnam, the Revolutionary hero, was born in the house at 431 Maple street. 210 visitor's guide to SALEM Hon. James Putnam was born just beyond the old cemetery on Summer street. He was the last Attorney-General of Massachusetts under the Crown, Judge of the Supreme Court of New Brunswick, and '*the best lawyer in America," said President Adams. A covered well just beyond the birthplace of James Putnam, in the field to the left, is near the site of the home of John Putnam, Sr. T he road passes over the site. St. John's Normal College, a Roman Catholic school, is on the northwest corner of Spring an.d Summer streets. The main building was erected by Jacob Spring, and is built of brick and forty-two vari- eties of stone picked up on the estate. Training Field, corner Centre and Ingersoll streets, was, in 1694. donated by Nathaniel Ingersoll to tlie inhabitants as "a training place forever." The town of Danvers, in 1894, set a huge boulder on the "green," with a suitable inscription thereon. First Church, corner Centre and Plobart streets. This has been the meeting-house site of this parish since 1702. The earlier and witchcraft meeting-house stood about seven hundred feet northeast- erly on the other side of Hobart street (called "meeting-house lane" in early days), just easterly of Forest street. On turning down Cen- tre street, at the left may be seen Parson Wadsworth residence, built about 1784. Rev. Samuel Parris, the witchcraft pastor of Salem Village lived in the parsonage which formerly stood about three hun- dred feet from the Parson Wadsworth house on Centre street. Here the delusion began. George Jacobs, who was executed as a witch in 1692, lived in a house still standing in the fields easterly from the foot of Gardner's hill. His remains are buried in the field between the house and the street. Rebecca Nurse Burying Ground, off Collins street in a field among some pine trees. Here is the monument with its inscription composed by the poet Whittier, erected to the memory of Rebecca Nurse who was executed for witchcraft in 1692. This field is a part of the ancient Nurse farm, and the old house in which Mrs. Nurse lived, said to have been built in 1636, is seen to the northeast on the NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 211 hill. The house and burying-ground are now owned by the Nurse Memorial Association. The house has been restored and three rooms have been furnished in the old manner. Admission 10 cents. PEABODY. Lexington Monument, corner Main and Washington streets, a granite monument erected in memory of the men from this town (then Danvers) who fell in the battles of Lexington and Concord, April 19, 1775. The monument was dedicated by Gov. Edward Everett. The famous Bell tavern formerlv stood on the left-hand corner. Peabody Historical Society, organized in 1896, has rooms in the Warren National Bank Building, with a collection of historical relics and curiosities. Peabody Institute, 64 Main street, is a public library founded with a bequest of $200,000 by George Peabody. Here is deposited a portrait of Queen Victoria painted on enamel, the colors being burned in and backed by a sheet of gold. Sixteen firings were needed to perfect the work. The picture was a gift from the Queen to Mr. Peabody in commemoration of his beneficence to the poor of London. The Sutton Reference Library, in the same building, was founded in 1869 by Mrs. Eliza Sutton, as a memorial to her son, Eben Dale Sutton. George Peabody. the world-renowned philanthropist, was born in the house numbered 205 Washington street. A tablet stands in front of the house. The name of the town, South Danvers, was changed to Peabody, in his honor, in 1868. William Frederick Poole, the first librarian of the Newberry Library at Chicago, was born in Salem, Dec. 24, 1821. The boun- dary lines having since been changed ; the house is now within the limits of Peabody, and the second below Pierpont street — 133 Main street. Mr. Poole had been librarian of the Boston Atheni?eum, Cin- cinnati Public Library, and the Chicago Public Library, and was the 212 visitor's guide to salem compiler of Poole's Index and a frequent contributor to historical and literary publications. - "Eliza Wharton" the "Coquette," Richard Derby, the patriot, Jones Very, the poet, and five of the Danvers minute men who fell at the battle of Lexington, were buried in the ancient cemetery at the dividing line between Peal)ody and Salem. MARBLEHEAD. The quaint old town of Marblehead is very enjoyable to any one who appreciates the picturesque. Many of the streets are crooked be- yond description, reminding those who have travelled abroad of the older parts of Naples. The earliest houses are as striking in ap- pearance and as queerly constructed as the streets. It is an old pro- vincial town, entirely unlike any other place in the land. It was set- tled largely, while a part of Salem, by fishermen from the Channel Islands, and to this day French Huguenot names, though often cor- rupted, are far from rare among them. They are a most hospitable people and famous fighters, and, during the Revolutionary War, had a whole regiment of their own under arms, which furnished oarsmen in Washington's passage of the Delaware and of New York Bay. A pleasant hour may be spent in driving through the streets and tlie people, who are proud of their town, are always ready to show the stranger its odd features and points of historic interest. In the simmier time the harbor is the rendezvous of the yachts of the lead- ing clubs, cruising along the coast, and the regattas of the Eastern and Corinthian clubs are social events of tlie season. Abbot Hall is on the Common, at the junction of Washington and Lee streets. Several fine paintings are in the reading room, including "The Spirit of '76." Fountain Inn, the scene of the romantic story of Agnes Surriage, was formerly located on Orne street near the harbor. NEIGHBORING PLACES OF INTEREST 213 Elbridge Gerry, the only Essex County signer of the Declara- tion of Independence, a Vice-President of the United States and Governor of Massachusetts, was born in a three story house on Wash- ington street nearly opposite the old North church. The system by which political districts are constituted to benefit the party in power, which was first applied while he was governor, has been called the "Gerrymander." Marblehead Historical Society, 169 Washington street, now owns and occupies the Lee mansion house, built in 1770, one of the finest examples of architecture of its period and now containing a valuable and interesting collection of furniture, china, and historical relics. Admission 10 cents. Capt. James Mugford, of Revolutionary fame, lived in the house at the corner of Mugford and Back streets. St. Michael's Church (Episcopal), Summer street, was built in 1714. Justice Joseph Story was born at 104 Washington street, and on the left, at the foot of the hill, is the old town house erected in 1727. INDEX Abbot, Col. Stephen Academy Hall . Adams, John Adams, John Qiiincy Allen, William . Almshouse, Ames Memorial Hall Andrew, Gov. John A Andrew house . Architecture and houses 7, 32-43, 58 Armory, Salem Cadet Arthur, President Arthur, Prince (Eng.) Assembly House Associated Charities Athenseum, Salem . 175 131 174 84 99, 114 115 131 175 151 , 73, 81 97,115 175 177 151 145 70 Bands in Salem . . 116 Barnard, Eev. Thomas 135, 174 Beadle's Tavern . . 151 Becket's shipyard . . 163 Belcher, Governor . . 176 Bell, Prof. A. Graham . 176 Bentley, Eev. William . 176 Bertram Home for Aged Men 146 Beverly Historical Society 206 Beverly City Hall . , 206 Bishop, Bridget . . 18, 151 Bishop House . . . 151 Boardman House . . 150 Boulder, 23d regiment . 164 Bowditch, Nathaniel . 176 Bradstreet, Gov. Simon 5, 70, 166, 176 Bridge, North . . . 156 Broad Street Cemetery . 165 Brooks, Eev. Charles T. Browne, Col. William "Browne's Folly" Bulfinch, Charles Burnett, Gov. William 127, Cabot, George . . 177, Cabot house . . . 36, Cadet Armory . Carlton, Eev. Michael Cemeteries Charter Street Burying Ground . . .53, Charters .... Chase house, Choate, Eufus . . 123, Churches, Calvary Baptist Crombie Street East .... First . . . 2,61, First Baptist Friends Grace .... Howard Street Immaculate Conception Lafayette St. Methodist, North .... Quaker .... St. James's . St. John the Baptist St. Joseph's . St. Peter's Second .... Sons of Jacob Synagogue South . . ' . Tabernacle I'uiversalist . 176 153 149, 115> 176^ 206 15 11 14Q'' 165 165 1.5 152 177 135 135 142 135 135 137 137 137 138 139 139 137 140 140 140 141 142 143 143 143 144 (214) INDEX. 215 Chnrclies, Wesley . City Hall Civil War, Salem in Clubs Cogswell, Gen. William Cold Spring . • ^ „ „, Commerce of Salem b, 8, 21 Common, The . • • Conant, Eoger . . 1. Congress, First Provincial Cook-Oliver house, . Copley, John Singleton . Corey. Giles . • • Corey, Giles, Execution ot Corwin house . Corwin, Sheriff George . Cotton mill, First . Court House, Old Court House, The "1785" . Court House, Witchcraft Court Houses, Federal Street Cranch, Richard Crowninshield, Benjamin W. Crowninshield, George Crowninshield, Jacob Crowninshield's wharf Custom House . . -60 15, 33, 16 144 116 164 146 177 170 , 31 169 164 119 153 177 177 15 164 162 207 118 121 118 121 160 177 J23 162 152 123 Danvers (Salem Village) 148, Danvers First Church . Danvers Historical Society Danvers Iron Works . Danvers Lunatic Hospital Derby, Elias Hasket 26, 127, Derby Street Dorchester Company Downing, Emanuel . East India Marine Society Edward VII of England . Emerson, Eev. Brown 210 208 208 208 158 24 1 70 84 177 175 Endecott, Gov. John 2, 5, 63, 173, 178 Endecott pear tree . Endicott, William C. English house . Essex (Beverly) Bridge . Essex County Collections 208 178 58 152 92-96 Essex County Natural History Society Essex Historical Society Essex House Essex Institute Essex Street "Evangeline," Its origin in Salem . . • • Farmer, Prof. Moses G. . Father Mathew Society . "Federal Street" Felt, Eev. Joseph B. Fire, Great, of 1914 Fire protection, Early Firemen, Veteran, Associa tion Fishing industry. Folly Hill . Forest Elver Park Forts, Old Franklin Building Fraternity, Salem Gage, Gen. Thomas 127, 178 Callow's Hill . . -20, 154 Garden. Eopes Memorial . Ill Gardner, Capt. Joseph Gerry, Elbridge Goodhue, Benjamin . G. A. E. Hall . Grant, President Gray, William Grimshawe house 68 67 153 67-82 63 59 178 146 183 178 10 149 149 3, 21 209 170 154,172 132 146 70 313 178 147 179 28, 153, 179 . 52, 154 Halls, Hamilton, Alexander 131 179 2l6 INDEX. Hamilton Hall . . 132 Hai-aden, Jonathan . . 179 Harmony Grove Cemetery 165 Harrison, President Benja- min . . . . 179 Hathorne, Col. John, grave- stone . . . . 15 Hawthorne, Nathaniel 9, 44-64 Birthplace of . . 47, 155 Charter Street house . 52 Chestnut Street house . 51 Custom house . . 60, 124 Dearborn Street ho\ise . 51 Herbert Street house . 47 "House of the Seven Ga- bles" .... 54-60 Mall Street house . 51 Original of "Grandfather's Chair" ... 59 Hawthorne, Places of resi- dence . . . 46-52 "Scarlet Letter" . . 60 "Toll Gatherer's Day" 62 Town Pump . . .61, 173 Higginson, Kev. Francis . 2, 179 Holmes, Dr. Oliver Wendell 9, 207 Holten, Judge Samuel . 209 Holyoke, Dr. Edward Augus- tus .... 180 Hooper house, , , 35, 209 Hospital, Salem . . 126 House of the Seven Gables 35, 54-60, 155 Hunt house ... 58 Indian deed of Salem . 117 Indians .... 4 Ingersoll, Horace . . 59 Ingersoll, Miss Susan . 54 Jackson, President . 180 Jacobs, George . . 17,210 Jail, County ^ . . . 126 Jail, Witchcraft . . 16, 126 Johnson, Rev. Samuel . 180 Juniper Point . . 173 Kcssuth, Louis . . 180 Lafayette, Marquis de 154, 180 Lander. Gen. Frederick W. 181 Ledge Hill Pai'k . . 170 Lee, Fort ... 172 "Leslie's Betreat" in 1775 156 Lexington monument (Pea- body) ... 211 Liberty Hill ... 170 Libraries, Essex lustitute 71 Law . . . . 114 Salem Athenaeum . 113 Salem Public . . Ill Light Hoiise, Winter Island 173 Lincoln, Governor . . 182 Loring, George B. . . 182 Low, Ablel A. . . . 182 Lynde, Judge Benjamin . 182 McClellan, Gen. Geoi'ge B. 182 Mclntire, Samuel 41, 127, 158, 169, 182 Marblehead excursion . 212 So- 213 155 126 116, 147 Marblehead Historical ciety . Marine Society Bethel Market House Masonic Temple grave- Mather, Nathaniel, stone .... 165 Mathew, Eev. Theobold, stat- ue ... . 164 Maule, Thomas . . 182 Mayflower gravestone . 165 Miller, Gen. James 124, 146, 183 Mingo Beach . . . 207 Missionaries, First, ordained 143 Monroe, President . . 183 INDEX. 21 7 More, Capt. Richard 126, 165, 183 Museums, Essex Institute 67 Peabody Museum . . 83 N^arbonne house . .35, 156 Psaumkeag .... 1 >J^aumkeag- Steam Cotton Co. viii Nichols house . . . 158 S'orris, Rev. Edward 183 North Bridge . 156 Noyes, Rev. Nicholas 183 Vurse, Rebecca . 16,210 Old Bakery 158 Old Ladies' Home . 145 Old Men's Home 146 Oliver, Gen. Henry K. 152, 183 I'age, Madam, tea party . 208 Parkman, Deliverance, house 57 Parks and Squares . . 169 Parris, Rev. Samuel . . 12 Peabody, Rev. A. P. . 207 Peabody, Col. Francis . 115 Peabody, George 69, 83, 211 Peabody, Miss So])hia A. . 52 Peabody Historical Society 211 ^eabody Institute, Danvers 209 Peabody Institute, Peabody, 211 Peabody Museum . . 83-109 ^eirce, Benjamin . . 184 Pepperrell, Sir William . 184 Peter, Rev. Hugh . . 184 ^eirce-Nichols house . 158 dickering, John . . 184 Pickering, Col. Timothy . 185 Pickering, Fort . . 173 Pickering house . . 32, 158 Pickman house 36, 37, 41, 158 Pierce, President . . 185 Plunmier Farm School . 148 Plummer Hall . . . 70, 113 Police Station . . . 128 Polk, President . . 185 Poole, William Frederick 211 Porches and Doorways . 37 Portraits in Public -Institu- tions . . . . 190 Post Office ... 129 Pownall, Governor . . 185 Prescott, "William Hickling 71 Prison ship . . . 160 Pump, Town . . . 61 Putnam, Prof. F. W. . 185 Putnam, James . . 210 Quakers Railroad station Rantoul, Robert Read, Nathan . Red Cross incident Revere, Paul 75, Revolutionary War Rogers, John . Roosevelt, President Ropes Memorial Ruck house Rumford, Count 129 207 . 71,185 173 130, 142, 207 6,22,157 186 186 110 160 187 Salem Athenaeum . . 70 Salem Charitable Mechanic Association . . 114 Salem Club ... 148 Salem, Commercial period in 21 Salem Marine Society . 132 Salem, Settlement of . 1 Salem Village (Danvers) 210 Saltonstall, Leverett . 186 "Scarlet Letter, The" . 52, -60 Schools .... 129 Bentley .... 129 High . . . . 130 State Normal . . 130 Seaman's Orphan and Chil- dren's Friend Society 148 2l8 INDEX. Seven Gables, House of the 54 Sewall, Stephen . .12 Shattnck, Samnel . . 186 Sherman, Gen. William T. 186 Ship Tavern . . . leo Ship models and paintings 87-90 Shipping, Salem . • .8,87-91 Shipyards . . . , 162 Silsbee, lYathaniel . . 186 Skelton, Rev. Samnel . 186 Story, Joseph . . 186, 213 Sunday School, First . 207 Taft. President . . 187 Theatres .... i3i Thompson, Benjamin, Count Rumford . . . 187 Town House . . . us Town House Square . 173 Trees . . . . 112 I'pham, Rev. Charles W. 187 Very, Rev. Jones . . 187 Victoria, Queen, portrait 152 Ward, Gen. Frederick T. 188 Ward, John, house . Ward, Joshua, house Ward, Miles, house . Washington, George 133, 162, Washington Hall Washington street . Watch house Webster, Daniel West, Lieut. Benjamin Wharton, Eliza Williams, Roger Willows, The . Winter Island . Winthrop, Henry Witchcraft Court House . Gallows Hill Jail "Witch" house Woman's Friend Society Wood carving . Woodbury, John Worcester, Joseph E. Young Men's Christian elation 35 162 162 170, 188 133 174 173 189 162 212 2,3, 189 170 172 189 5, 11-20 16 19 16 33, 164 149 38, 43 189 189 Asso- 150 Photo{(raphs and Souvenir Post Cards 1 7th century house and type rooms in the Museum. Mclntire porch. Portraits and paintings in the Picture Gallery. Etchings By L. J. Bridgm&n atid George M. White Birthplace of Nathaniel Hawthorne. Timothy Pickering House. South Church Spire, Salem. Salem Custom House. The House of the Seven Gables. Rebecca Nurse House, Danvers. The Old Witch House. Dr. Grimshawe House. Price, 25 cents each, postpaid. Address : ^e Essex Institute, Salem, Mass. VISITORS GUIDE TO SALEM .0" a.^^ '^.^ .-^ V ..J *,. x'^' 0* •^o -ov* ,*• rife-: \>/ -'M^'. \.*' .'Jlfev \.^* ^/ 4.^ ^<^ • • «• ^^ ^ "^ v-!*^ »4o. AT ^••!^OT-'y% '^: /\ -.^f.- **'-v. yi^. •% ^ **r 1' . < ■ •«