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THE 
 
 AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY; 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 EVEKY KEQUISITE DETAIL 
 
 Successful (Mtitatwtt of % Jflcfacr-^aAcit. 
 
 EMBRACING 
 
 THE CLASSIFICATION OP THE BEST VARIETIES OP ROSES, AND ALL PLANTS 
 REQUISITE FOR THE GARDEN, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR PROPA- 
 GATION, AND REMEDIES FOR THE DESTRDCTION OP INSECTS. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED THE 
 
 VEGETABLE GARDEN MANUAL. 
 
 V' 
 BY JOHN T. C. 
 
 CLARK. 
 
 ii 
 
 
 
 
 Vef/I 
 
 /<? 
 
 
 
 WASHINGTON, 
 
 D 
 
 1 
 c. 
 
 d, 
 
 PUBLISHED BY TAYLOR 
 
 & MAURI 
 
 
 1856. 
 
 
 
 
TO THE 
 
 AMATEURS OF THE UNITED STATES, 
 THIS VOLUME 
 Is respectfully dedicated, by 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by 
 
 JOHN T. C. CLARK, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the Circuit Court of the District of Columbia. 
 
 of. 
 
 PUINTED BY 
 
 JAMES YOUNG 
 
 BALTIMORE. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The love of Nature affords us the purest delight and is implant- 
 ed in the human breast. While contemplating the wonders of the 
 vegetable kingdom, we instinctively bow before her shrine and are 
 forced to acknowledge her sovereignty. ' ' Flowers, of all created 
 things, are the most innocent — simple and the most complex — 
 playthings for childhood and ornaments for the grave." Nature 
 is most lavish in her gifts, and in order to appreciate and enjoy 
 them, we should listen to her voice and study well her teachings, 
 for they will surely inculcate a tone of refinement, affoi'd pleasant and 
 healthful employment, and give us exalted views of her Creator. 
 
 With a view of being instrumental in inducing some, at least, 
 to partake of the pleasures which the practical study of Floricul- 
 ture imparts, and to the repeated demands of kind friends, the 
 present little volume is presented to the public. 
 
 Numerous and excellent have been the works written on Flori- 
 culture, yet they are generally unsuited to the wants of the Ama- 
 teur, for should he have occasion to consult their pages upon an 
 emergency — being written, in most cases, for the guidance of the 
 scientific Florist — he either cannot understand them or fails to find 
 the information which he seeks. In order to remedy this defi- 
 ciency, in part, the author has been induced to embody his prac- 
 tical experience in the management of the Flower-Grarden ; and, in 
 the arrangement of the work, he has endeavored to present, in a 
 clear and available manner, every necessary detail, thereby ob- 
 viating, or removing to some extent, the difficulties which the 
 Amateur encounters in the works referred to. Should it be the 
 
IV 
 
 means of assisting one of the numerous Amateurs who have here- 
 tofore been deterred from pursuing the practical study of Floricul- 
 ture to surmount the obstacles which have obstructed his progress, 
 or inducing others to make the acquaintance of Flora, whose 
 flowery paths abound with innocent pleasures, his object will be 
 fully attained. 
 
 With some few exceptions, the author has embodied his own 
 practical experience in the cultivation of the plants enumerated. 
 He does not claim all as original, freely acknowledging his in- 
 debtedness to "Loudon's Encyclopedia of Plants" and other 
 standard works, for the generic or specific names of many plants. 
 The practical and valuable information contained in the Vegeta- 
 ble-Garden Manual has been carefully compiled from various re- 
 liable sources. He would here tender his acknowledgments to all 
 to whom he is indebted for valuable information. 
 
 Under the patronage of the Amateur the author would respect- 
 fully place this his first effort, knowing that their love of the sub- 
 ject on which it treats will enable them to overlook all deffieiencies 
 on his part in his endeavors to induce others to partake of the 
 enjoyments which Floriculture afford to her votaries. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The practical study of Floriculture imparts to the Amateur in- 
 nocent and healthful recreation, and opens to him a large field for 
 profitable contemplation and study. "With what pleasure does he 
 listen to her teachings, and which unfold to his view the beautiful 
 harmony of Nature! All Nature rejoices with him, and the swell- 
 ings of his own bosom are but the vibrations of that all-pervading 
 system of harmony that thrills throughout the vast extent of Crea- 
 tion. Herein are the means for the cultivation of the better feel- 
 ings of our nature, and which tend to relax the care-worn mind 
 and to raise our affections above the angry turmoils of life. 
 
 Nature is most industrious in adorning her domains, and Man, 
 to whom this bounty is addressed, should obey the lesson. He 
 too should adorn his home — the dwelling of his wife and chil- 
 dren — with pleasant objects, and with all those attractions which 
 will make it cheerful. What will tend more to this end than a 
 flower-garden, filled with beautiful flowers, imparting their fra- 
 grance, elevating and purifying the soul of the beholder? If this 
 be done, the home will become the abode of cheerfulness. 
 
 Where flowers arc planted, the home becomes a tasteful resi- 
 dence, while its intrinsic value is greatly enhanced. Cultivated 
 taste gives beauty and value to property, and the small cost of a 
 flower-garden, so far from being a useless expense, as some assert, 
 add to the money-value of the property. 
 
 Children learn to love every flower. Innocent, happy child- 
 hood, how delighted with the beauties of Flora! In after life, 
 their affections will cling to the beautiful and hallowed spot where 
 
first they beheld the beauties of Nature, and whose lessons were 
 imprinted on their young hearts by a fond and affectionate mother. 
 The eyes of the father become opened to the influence of the les- 
 sons which Nature imparts, and he fondly cherishes every plant 
 which has afforded so much pleasure to his children and comfort 
 to his household. The fond mother anxiously watches and nur- 
 tures them, and finds a solace in the cares, which have a simili- 
 tude to the trials of earlier days, to soften and soothe, and yet not 
 sadden the heart. 
 
 The author would respectfully appeal to all to encourage the 
 study of practical Floriculture, and particularly the Ladies. "A 
 natural fondness for flowers is an evidence of a refined mind, and 
 their cultivation will create a delicate taste." Learn to plant and 
 cultivate them, and the pleasure will increase in proportion to 
 your efforts, and remain when all others have departed. They 
 endear us to local attachments, and the recollection of which, in 
 after years, carry us back to the sunny hours and innocent pleas- 
 ures of childhood, and afford us delight in visiting the scenes of 
 our youth. 
 
THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 
 
 THE COMPONENT PARTS OF SOIL, 
 
 Whatever may be their color, are argil, sand, water, and air. 
 Into these original principles may all earths be reduced, however 
 blended with apparently foreign substances. Argil is the soft and 
 unctuous part of the clay. The primitive earths, (argil and sand,) 
 contain each, perhaps in nearly equal degrees, the food of plants, 
 but in their union the purposes of vegetation are most completely 
 answered. The precise quantity of each necessary to make this 
 union perfect, and whether they ought to be equal, it is neither 
 very easy nor material to ascertain, since that point is best deter- 
 mined in practice, when the soil proves to be neither too stiff or 
 adhesive from the superabundance of clay, nor of too loose or weak 
 a texture from an over quantity of sand in its composition. 
 
 BEST SOIL FOR A GARDEN. 
 
 Prefer a sandy loam, not less than twelve inches deep, and 
 good earth, not of a binding nature in summer nor of retentive of 
 water in winter, but of such a texture that it can be worked with- 
 out difficulty in any season of the year. Few plants require less 
 depth of earth to grow in to bring them to perfection, and if the 
 soil of the garden be two or more feet deep so much the better ; 
 for, when many varieties of plants are in a state of maturity, if 
 their roots be minutely traced, they will be found to penetrate into 
 
8 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 the earth, in search of food, to the depth of two feet or more, pro- 
 vided the nature of the soil will permit them. If avoidable, never 
 make a garden on land whose bottom is of a wet or springy na- 
 ture. If this precaution be taken, drainage will be unnecessary. 
 When a garden is properly prepared for the growth of plants b} T 
 trenching, manuring, and digging, it is brought into such a porus 
 temperament that the rains pass through the soil without being 
 detained longer than necessary. If the soil of the garden be of 
 too strong a nature, it should be well incorporated with sand or 
 the scrapings of gutters, streets, &c. 
 
 PREPARATION OF MANURE. 
 
 The term manure is indiscriminately applied to all substances 
 which are known from experience either to enrich the different 
 soils or contribute in any other way to render them more favorable 
 to vegetation. These may be reduced to light sandy loam from 
 commons, peat-earth from the surface of marshes, vegetable-earth 
 from decayed leaves or stalks, sand, lime-rubbish, ashes, ,soot, 
 stable manure, &c. There are no known garden plants that will 
 not grow and thrive in one or the other of these earths, alone or 
 mixed. Nurserymen seldom use more than three kinds, viz : 
 Loam, peat, and well-rotted stable manure. With these, they 
 continue to grow thousands of different species of plants in as 
 great or greater perfection as their native countries, and many hi 
 a superior manner. 
 
 The preparation of composts for general enrichment consists in 
 collecting in the spring each soil in separate heaps, thoroughly 
 mixing them together, and turning them every month until the 
 whole become well incorporated together. After fermentation has 
 taken place they are fit for use and may be applied to the garden. 
 In all composts in which manure is a component part, one year 
 at least should be allowed for decomposition, and what is termed 
 sweetening, before applied to delicate flowers, especially bulbs. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 
 
 This important and requisite object is easily accomplished if the 
 ground is spaded deep and equal and turned over equally with the 
 part which constitutes the surface and well pulverized. In many 
 instances these precautions are neglected, the ground being spaded 
 in a shallow manner. When this is the case, the object is only 
 partly attained, for the food of the plants can only be imperfectly 
 procured. Ground should never be spaded in wet weather if 
 avoidable, for sourerness and adhesion then takes place, which is 
 rarely overcome until the operation is again repeated, and which 
 will prove very injurious, if not fatal, to the plants inserted there- 
 in. If the grounds need enriching, manure should be applied late 
 in the fall and well dug in, early in the following spring. 
 
 SOWING SEED. 
 
 The ground having been prepared in accordance with the di- 
 rections above, the beds should be well raked and leveled, and 
 the seed sown in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills, 
 from an eighth to half an inch in depth, according to the size and 
 nature of the seed. Annual flower-seed should be sown in April, 
 May, or June, according to their hardiness. — (See Classification 
 of Plants.) Many flower-seed are planted so deep that they can- 
 not vegetate, such as Sweet Alyssum and other small seed, when 
 the Amateur readily concludes that they were old and worthless, 
 and the seedsman is sure to receive unmerited censure. As a 
 general rule, if the very small flower-seed, such as Sweet Alys- 
 sum, Portulacca, Petunia, &c, be sown broadcast, and not cov- 
 ered, provided the ground has been well pulverized, they will do 
 much better than when sown by the ordinary method. If the seed 
 of the Cypress Vine, Morning Glory, &c, be soaked in warm wa- 
 
10 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ter or milk for fifteen or twenty minutes before being planted, they 
 will vegetate much sooner and flower earlier than without. All 
 flower-seed will generally make their appearance in three weeks 
 after being sown. In dry weather, they should have occasional 
 waterings; care should be taken, however, not to give them too 
 much. Excessive moisture is injurious and causes the seed to 
 rot. A small water-pot, having a very fine rose or nozzle, should 
 be used for this purpose. 
 
 TRANSPLANTING. 
 
 This operation consists in removing plants, whether from seed, 
 cuttings, or grafts, according to their kinds and other circumstan- 
 ces, to a situation prepared to receive them. Transplanting, there- 
 fore, consists of three things, viz : 
 
 1. The preparation of the soil to which the plant is to be re- 
 moved. 
 
 The preparation of the soil implies, in all cases, stirring, loosen- 
 ing, mixing, and comminution; and, in many cases, the addition 
 of manure or compost, according to the nature of the soil and the 
 plant to be inserted. 
 
 2. The removal of the plant. 
 
 The removal of the plant is generally effected by loosening the 
 earth around it and then drawing it out of the soil, in all cases 
 avoiding as much as possible to break, bruise, or otherwise injur- 
 ing the roots. In the case of small seedling plants, by merely in- 
 serting the garden-trowel and raising the portion of earth in which 
 they grow will suffice ; but in the removal of larger plants, it may 
 be necessary to dig a trench around the plant. In some cases, the 
 plant may be lifted with a ball of earth containing all its roots by 
 means of the spade. 
 
 3. The insertion of the plant in the prepared soil. 
 
 In setting out plants, particularly seedlings, cloudy or rainy 
 weather should be selected. Seedlings should be set out from 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 11 
 
 time to time, lest a hot season should prematurely arrive and de- 
 stroy them. As a general rule, it will be found advisable to pro- 
 tect seedlings, particularly when first removed from the seed-bed, 
 against the rays of the sun for a few days. An inverted flower- 
 pot will serve for this purpose. With small plants, it will only be 
 necessary to make a hole in the soil sufficient to admit the plant, 
 insert the same, drawing up the soil gently around it, and give 
 gentle waterings for a few days, and protect by shading. When 
 changing the position of large plants, the ground having been 
 selected, excavate with the spade a hole in proportion to the size 
 of the plant to be inserted, and — (if for roses, place broken pieces 
 of flower-pots, soft brick, &c, in the bottom, and cover with soil 
 three inches deep in alternate layers of soil and fragments) — hav- 
 ing carefully untangled any matted roots which may present them- 
 selves, insert the plant in the hole made to receive it to its origi- 
 nal depth, holding the same in an upright position, and work the 
 soil well in among the roots with the hand. Fill in the soil, and 
 gently press with the foot the sides of the plant to keep it in its 
 position. Water and stake securely. Plants should never be 
 crowded, for it is not only very injurious, but destroys the beauty 
 of the garden. 
 
 WALKS AND BEDS. 
 
 Great diversity of opinion prevail in regard to the rule or plan 
 on which the grounds should be laid off. Some contend for straight 
 or parallel walks and beds, while others maintain that the whole 
 beauty of the garden is marred unless it be cut up into serpentine 
 walks and irregular or fancy-shaped flower-beds. And others 
 again affirm that in the blending of the plants and shrubs to- 
 gether, so as to hide all artficial or studied effect, consists the 
 achme of perfection. Where such a difference and taste exist, 
 we would not willingly become the umpire ; but, as every person 
 will be governed in part, at least, by their own opinion and taste 
 
12 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 in these particulars, we would venture to suggest that, in planning 
 and laying out grounds, if they will consult "the Genius of the 
 Place," and act in accordance with such suggestions as she may 
 point out, they no doubt will be enabled to effect this object to the 
 mutual satisfaction of themselves and their critical friends. 
 
 There are, however, two evils under this head to which we 
 would invite the particular attention of the Amateur, and which 
 should be carefully guarded against, viz : 
 
 1. In laying off your walks, you cannot be too careful in regard 
 to their width. No walk should be less than two and a half feet 
 wide; for, when contracted, it may prove the death of some favor- 
 ite plant and be the means of ruining the dress of some lady 
 friend. If the ground can be spared, sufficient width should be 
 given to permit the ingress and egress of a wheel-barrow. 
 
 2. In order to maintain the uniformity, as well as the durability 
 of garden-walks, it is essentially requisite that a proper drainage 
 should be secured. One inch fall in three feet will be found gen- 
 erally sufficient for this purpose. Where grounds have a greater 
 declivity, not only the walks, but the beds, are likely to wash, 
 which injures the general appearance of the garden. One inch to 
 the foot, from the centre to the edge, will give a form sufficiently 
 rounding for all practical or ornamental purposes in a walk of four 
 feet wide. In walks of greater width, less fall is advisable and 
 will serve the purpose. 
 
 GRAVEL-WALKS. 
 
 The bottom should be made with lime-rubbish, pieces of bricks, 
 stones, coal-ashes, or any other hard substance, from four to six 
 inches thick, to keep weeds or grass from growing through. 
 Over this fine gravel should be laid from three to four inches 
 deep. This should be laid rounding up in the middle, by which 
 means the larger stones will run off to the sides and may be raked 
 away. It is a common mistake to lay the walks too rounding, 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 13 
 
 which not only make them uneasy to walk upon, but takes off 
 from then- apparent breadth. One inch to the foot, is sufficient 
 proportion for the rise in the centre ; so that a walk of four feet 
 wide, should be two inches higher in the centre than at the edges, 
 and so in proportion for walks of greater width. One inch in 
 three feet, will give sufficient fall for drainage. These directions 
 are applicable for medium-sized gardeus. In extensive grounds, 
 greater width will be necessary, in order to insure the symetrical 
 proportions of the parterre; in which case, the gravel should be 
 laid deeper. As soon as the gravel is laid on, it should be well 
 raked and the large stones removed. The whole should be well 
 rolled, both lengthwise and crosswise. A clean gravel-walk adds 
 greatly to the beauty of the garden. If the walks are extensive, 
 they shoidd be rolled once a week, particularly after a rain. 
 
 GATHERING SEED. 
 
 Those who wish to gather flower-seed must attend to them in 
 the month of August. Many kinds will begin to ripen and should 
 be carefully staked and supported, to prevent them from being 
 shaken by high winds and lost. Others should be defended from 
 dampness, such as Asters, and generally such as, from the con- 
 struction of their flowers, are apt to rot and the seed to mould in 
 bad seasons. When they are ripe, they should be gathered and 
 placed in some dry situation, protected against winds, and when 
 dry, rubbed or beat out, placed in papers or boxes, and properly 
 labeled. 
 
 PRESERVING SEED. 
 
 When flower-seed are to be preserved longer than the usual 
 period, or when to be sent to a great distance, if placed in cotton, 
 saw-dust, or dry sand, they may be preserved for any reasonable 
 time. 
 
14 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 MANURES FOR HOT-BEDS AND PITS. 
 
 Horse-manure is generally used for forming hot-beds. Bark is 
 only preferable to manure because the substance which undergoes 
 the process of putrid fermentation requires longer time to decay. 
 Hence it is found useful for hot-beds or pits, as it requires to be 
 seldomer moved or renewed than any other substance. Leaves, 
 especially those of the oaks, come nearest to bark, and have the 
 additional advantage that, when perfectly rotten, like manure, 
 they form an excellent compost. Recent stable manure requires 
 to be in ridges or beds a month, and turned over several times, 
 before it is fit for this purpose. Tan and leaves also require a 
 month. Wood-ashes are often mixed with the manures used in 
 hot-beds, and, by some, are supposed to promote the steadiness 
 and duration of their heat, and, at least, to revive it if some- 
 what decayed. Tan is also used for the same purpose, and, if 
 mixed in proportion of one-third to two of manure, it will form 
 a more durable and less violent heat than a bed composed wholly 
 of manure. 
 
 HOT-BED OR PIT. 
 
 The hot-bed or pit is an important and necessary appendage to 
 the flower-garden, and should never be omitted if room can be 
 spared and an elegible site obtained. Many tender varieties of 
 plants can be safely kept in an ordinary pit through the severest 
 winters. Beside enabling the Amateur to save many valuable 
 plants which would otherwise be lost from the effects of frost, if 
 the spring should prove backward or unfavorable to the sowing 
 of annual flower-seed, this difficulty may be readily overcome by 
 the aid of a small pit, thereby enabling him to be fully prepared 
 to meet any emergency which may present itself. Many plants, 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 15 
 
 whose propagation in the open ground is attended with difficulty, 
 can be successfully multiplied by the use of the pit or hot-bed. To 
 construct a pit of six feet wide, five feet long, two feet deep at the 
 top, and one foot deep at bottom, double-cased all round, to set 
 six inches in the ground, would cost complete $15, and, with ordi- 
 nary care, would last several years, and in which seventy-five 
 medium-sized plants, in pots from three to six inches each, can be 
 kept as securely, if not in a better condition, than in a green-house ; 
 for the heat of the pit, with proper attention, could be kept more 
 regular. In many gardens, the entire cost would be saved the 
 first season. The pit should have a southern exposure. Tan or 
 saw-dust should be placed between the outer and inner cases, 
 which will keep out the frost. Sifted coal-ashes, in theabscenceof 
 manure, should be placed in the bottom to the depth of six inches. 
 In mild weather, the sash should be raised to admit air, but care 
 should be taken to close up the pit on the approach of frost. Wa- 
 ter the plants sparingly, and do not give them an over supply, or 
 you may have an accumulation of dampness which cannot be 
 easily counteracted, and which, if not removed, will seriously in- 
 jure the plants. If the green-fly should make his appearance in 
 the pit, place a few live coals in a pan at the bottom and a hand- 
 ful of tobacco-leaves over the same, closing up the pit to keep in 
 the smoke. Let the pit remain closed for one hour, and these 
 troublesome pests will readily be exterminated. After the ex- 
 piration of an hour, remove the sash and give air. Fumigation 
 should only be done in clear open weather. 
 
 If desirable, the pit can be so constructed that it can be taken 
 apart without injury, in the spring, and housed until is again re- 
 quired in the fall. This can be effected by having hooks and 
 staples fixed at each corner, at bottom and top, on the inside, (in- 
 stead of the usual manner of nailing,) which will hold it securely 
 together. Pits constructed on this plan are frequently resorted to 
 where the grounds are limited. In very cold weather, the sash 
 should be covered with shutters, or some other article, which will 
 keep the frost from them. A roller, made fast at the top of the 
 
16 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 pit and worked by pullies, to which matting or carpet is attached, 
 will serve for this purpose. 
 
 GARDEN TOOLS. 
 
 Every well-regulated garden should be supplied with the fol- 
 lowing tools, viz: Spade, shovel, rake, scuffle-hoe, budding and 
 pruning-knife, syringe, snip-shears, garden-trowel, small and large 
 watering-pot, small saw, and hatchet. Where the grounds are ex- 
 tensive, others will be necessary. Stakes, from one to five feet in 
 length, and of different thickness, should always be kept on hand; 
 together with cotton-twist, bass-matting, nails, tacks, and leather, 
 for securing vines and other running plants to trelleses, pillars, 
 &c. Leather should alone be employed for securing vines and 
 other climbing plants, as it is in all respects preferable to twinei 
 for the latter, on becoming wet, shrink and injures the plant. 
 
 I 
 
 / 
 
 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 Neatness and order are always indispensable in a flower-garden, 
 and when not secured, neither the beauty nor variety of the plants 
 will compensate for their abscence. In order to secure theso im- 
 portant requisites, the following suggestions should be strictly 
 adhered to, viz : 
 
 1. Perform every operation in the proper season and in the best 
 manner. This is to be acquired in part by practice and partly 
 also by reflection. For example : In spading up a piece of ground, 
 it is a common practice with some persons to throw the weeds and 
 stones on the spaded ground, or on the adjoining walk, with the 
 intention of gathering them up afterwards. A better way is to 
 have a wheel-barrow, box, or basket, in which to place the weeds, 
 stones, and other extraneous matter, as they are picked up out 
 of the ground. Some persons, in planting or weeding, throw 
 down all weeds, stones, &c, with a view to pick them up or rake 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 17 
 
 them off together afterwards. It is better to have a basket or 
 box, either common or subdivided, in which to hold in one part 
 the plants to be set out, and in the other the extraneous matter. 
 
 2. Complete every part of an operation as you proceed, and 
 finish one job before beginning another. 
 
 3. In leaving off work, always place the tools where you can 
 readily find them when wanted. 
 
 4. Keep a vigilant watch for weeds, leaves, or other unsightly 
 objects, and remove them to the compost heap. 
 
 5. In removing a plant, be careful to remove at the same time 
 all roots, stems, leaves, or whatever else is of no further use or 
 may appear slovenly. 
 
 6. Attend at all times to tools, keeping them clean, sharp, and 
 in perfect order. See particularly that each is placed in its proper 
 situation, both in winter and summer, thereby preventing their 
 exposure to dampness and rust, which greatly impair their use- 
 fulness. 
 
 7. Allow no blanks in box-edgings, beds, rows, &c, and keep 
 the first cut to the utmost nicety. 
 
 8. Keep the shapes of all plants filled with wood according to 
 its kind, and let their training be in the first style of perfection. 
 
 9. Keep all walks in perfect form, whether raised or flat, free 
 from weeds, dry, and well rolled. 
 
 10. See that all plants are securely staked, to prevent their 
 breakage from an overgrowth of wood or by high winds. K the 
 stakes be painted green, they may partially be hid, and will serve 
 to improve their appearance and preserve them. DT placed on the 
 touth side of the plant, it will serve in some measure to protect it 
 from the burning rays of the sun. 
 
 WATERING GARDENS. 
 
 In general, this is only requisite when plants are first set out, 
 or in very dry seasons. As ailment to plants in a growing state, 
 
18 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 for keeping under insects, and to cleanse the leaves, it may at 
 times, however, become necessary. All watering should be done 
 in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to 
 the roots. In which case, plants in a growing state may be 
 watered at any time, if the earth be removed from the surface 
 to the depth of four or six inches, and a bowl formed around the 
 plant. Pour the water in the bowl, and as soon as it settles, 
 replace the earth, which will prevent the ground from baking, 
 as is usually the case where the ordinary method is resorted to. 
 When applying water to the tops or leaves of plants, the rose 
 of the watering-pot or the syringe should be employed. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 19 
 
 CLASSIFICATION. 
 
 Having described in the preceding pages all the essential par- 
 ticulars, in detail, for choosing soil, sowing and. gathering seed, 
 transplanting, and general directions for the management of the 
 flower-garden, we shall endeavor to embrace in the following 
 classification all of the principal, plants -proper for the garden, 
 with intimations of their nature, growth, and various methods 
 of propagation, explained under their respective heads, and con- 
 sisting of — 
 
 Tender annuals, Perennials, 
 
 Half-hardy annuals, Bulbous and tube-rooted plants, 
 
 Hardy annuals, Deciduous plants, and 
 
 Biennials, Evergreens, 
 
 In examining the catalogue of the seedsman, with a view of 
 making a selection of such plants as will afford a proficiency and 
 variety of bloom to the flower-garden, the Amateur becomes con- 
 fused with the fine botanical names and the indefinite directions 
 given for their culture, and often selects those of inferior merit. 
 In order to assist him in making a judicious selection, we shall 
 endeavor to give an accurate description of each plant embraced 
 in the following lists, giving both the botanical and common 
 name, time of flowering, color, and habit of each plant. The 
 time of flowering, hardiness, directions for sowing seed, &c, cor- 
 respond to the meredian of Washington. Due allowance being 
 made for different latitudes, they will be found to be equally ap- 
 plicable. Slight variations may occur in some of these particu- 
 lars, owing to position or cultivation, but those designated will 
 generally be found to be correct. 
 
 Annual flowers. — All plants of this tribe are only of one sum- 
 mer's duration ; some of but two or three months. Annuals may 
 
20 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 be divided into tender, half-hardy, and hardy varieties. The seed 
 of tender annuals, such as the Cypress Vine, Thunbergia, Sensi- 
 tive Plant, &c, should be sown about the first of June. The 
 half-hardy annuals, such as Balsam, Cockscomb, Marigold, &c, 
 should be sown about the middle of May. Hardy annuals, 
 such as Candytuft, Clarkia, &c, may be sown in April or May. 
 If sown, however, early in the autumn, they will grow large 
 enough for transplanting early in the spring, if slightly protected 
 through the winter. By this method, they will produce their 
 flowers much earlier. 
 
 Biennial flowers. — These are principally of two years' dura- 
 tion, at least in their continuance in good perfection, being raised 
 from seed sown in the spring for flowering the year following. 
 In some varieties they most wholly decay, top and root; and, in 
 others, although they continue longer, generally become of a weak 
 and straggling growth, and do not flower in equal perfection. 
 Some few may be continued in a perennial state by cuttings, lay- 
 ers, &c. 
 
 Perennial flowers. — The plants of this class are of several or 
 many years' continuance in the same roots, and consist of fibrous, 
 fleshy, and in some tube-rooted kinds. Many sorts are raised 
 from seed, but generally from slips, suckers, layers, and cuttings. 
 They are very oramental and handsome flowei*ing plants, shooting 
 up their flower-stems in the spring, flowering in their proper 
 season, and loosing their tops, wholly or in part, in autumn; and, 
 the roots continuing, flower in that order annually. The roots 
 of the herbaceous (fibrous) varieties should be divided in the 
 spring. Some kinds may be divided in August, after flowering, 
 when the roots will make fine plants and flower strongly the en- 
 suing year. Suckers should be taken up when the plant is begin- 
 ing to grow. Layers, cuttings, and seed of this class of plants 
 may be grown successfully by the methods described under their 
 respective heads. 
 
 Bulbous and tube-rooted flowers. — These bloom at intervals 
 during the spring, summer, and fall, and being distinct in char- 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 21 
 
 acter and beautiful in appearance, add much to the beauty of the 
 garden. They are all perennials in root, which, in the greater 
 part, are bulbous — onion like — either solid, as in tulips and some 
 other sorts, or tunnicated, or of several involving coats, as in the 
 onion and lily; and some sorts are composed of many fleshy 
 scales. The tuberous roots are solid, knobbed, and fleshy, either 
 single or many in a cluster, and in some many smaller tubers 
 connected in a head. All of which are durable or perpetuated in 
 the roots by offsets, and some from seed. They delight in a rich 
 sandy loam. Those requiring support, such as the Tuberose, 
 Dahlia, &c, should be securely staked, to prevent their being 
 broken off by high winds. The depth which each variety should 
 be planted will be found indicated by the figures attached to each 
 in the list, signifying inches, always measuring from the top 
 of the bulb. The summer and fall-flowering roots should be 
 preserved through the winter in dry sand or saw-dust, in a tem- 
 perature rather under than above what is natural to them. The 
 spring-flowering varieties can be preserved in the same manner 
 through the summer, but, for convenience, they may be kept 
 loose in boxes or papers, free from dampness, till the season 
 of planting. The offsets should be separated when the parent 
 root is taken up. As a general rule, it will be found advisable 
 to plant offsets of all the spring-flowering bulbs as soon as sepa- 
 rated; for, if kept long out of the ground, they become exhausted 
 and perish. As soon as the tops have died down, bulbs may be 
 taken up and separated. Hyacinths, Tulips, and Crocuses, will 
 flower much stronger and produce a greater abundance of offsets 
 if taken up every alternate year. Never purchase bulbs which 
 have made much growth before planting, for they are always 
 weakened, and generally will not flower the first season. The 
 spring-flowering varieties should be planted in October and No- 
 vember, and the summer and fall-flowering kinds in May or June. 
 Deciduous plants. — This class of plants defoliate or shed their 
 leaves in autumn. Their fine foliage and the beauty of their flow- 
 ers add greatly to the appearance of the garden. They are all 
 
22 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 perennials in root, generally tardy, and may be propagated from 
 cuttings, layers, seed, suckers, and grafting. This highly es- 
 teemed family of plants embrace numerous varieties. All dicidu- 
 ous plants should be planted out as early in the spring as the 
 ground will permit, and before the buds begin to swell. They 
 may be planted, however, with some few exceptions, in the fall, 
 after the leaves have fallen. They delight in a rich light loam. 
 Evergreens. — These are generally employed for ornamental 
 purposes, and comprise many varieties. They are of a hardy na- 
 ture, retaining their foliage through the winter, making them 
 very desirable. They should be planted out in March or April. 
 If carefully taken up with balls of earth, evergreens may be suc- 
 cessfully planted in any season of the year, damp and moist 
 weather being selected for that purpose. The plants should be 
 kept out of the ground as short a time as possible. Most varieties 
 of evergreens may be propagated by cuttings, and some from seed. 
 In all seasons, situations, and soils, the plants should have a plen- 
 tiful supply of water as soon as the earth is filled in around the 
 roots. If this precaution is observed, the soil is carried down by 
 the water, and the crevices about the roots become filled. After 
 the water has settled, care should be taken to have the hole filled 
 up even with the surface of the ground, to prevent the roots from 
 being exposed. Ordinary garden soil will serve for evergreens, 
 but if a rapid growth be desired, it should be moderately enriched 
 with decomposed manure. Mulching is sometimes desirable. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 23 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED. 
 
 The following catalogue embrace such only as have proved to be 
 worthy of cultivation, comprising the best varieties, either emi- 
 nently beautiful or fragrant, and such as will give gaiety, bright- 
 ness, and profusion of bloom to the flower-garden. The first flow- 
 ering is only designated* many plants continuing to bloom until 
 destroyed by frost. 
 
 J ^©* > The asterisk (*) denotes climbers, f Tender annuals. J Half-hardy 
 annuals. \ Hardy annuals, b Biennials, p Perennials. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 Ageratum Mexicanum,±. 
 " odorata alba| 
 
 Mexican Ageratum, , 
 Sweet-scented Agera- 
 tum. 
 Mullen Pink, 
 
 p Agrostemma,§ 
 
 Alyssum maritinum,g....jSweet Alvsum 
 
 p li saxatile,g (Rock, or Golden Alys- 
 
 ! sum. 
 
 Alonsoa incisifolia,'f Nettle-leaved Alonsoa 
 
 p Althse sinesis,J iChinese Hollyhock, ....| 
 
 Amarantus hypochondri-|Prince' s Feather, I 
 
 acus.£ 
 
 Amarantus superbus,§...|Suberb " " I 
 
 caudatus,g... Love-lies-bleeding, | 
 
 Ammobium alatum, J IWinged Ammobium, . . j 
 
 Anagallisindica,f jlndian Anagallis, 
 
 b Antirrhinum, § (Snap-dragon, 
 
 p Aquilegia vulgaris, §....| Columbine j 
 
 Argemone grandiflora,J. Great-flowered Arge- 
 mone. 
 
 Naked-flower' d Azalea! 
 
 Golden Bartonia, I 
 
 jSwan Daisy, 
 
 Blue Amethyst, j 
 
 Scarlet Tassel-flower, 
 
 Rough podded Calam- 
 
 ! pelis. 
 Calandrinia grandiflora^jGreat-flowered . Calan- 
 
 I drinia. 
 
 Azalea nudiflora,§. 
 Bartonia aurea,f... 
 Brachycome iberidifoliag 
 Browallia elata,f.... 
 Caccalia coccinuea, J 
 pCalampelis scaber,*|... 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 July, 
 June, 
 July, 
 June, 
 May, 
 Aug. 
 
 June, 
 Aug. 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 
 [Pale blue,. lj feet. 
 White, if feet. 
 
 peep red,.. H feet. 
 
 I White, 1 foot. 
 
 j Yellow, jlO in. 
 
 jScarlet, ... 
 ! Various, .. 
 [Pur. crim. 
 
 park red, . 
 |Blood red, 
 
 White, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Various, ... 
 Various, ... 
 While, .... 
 
 [Pink, .... 
 JYellow, . 
 IChangeable 
 
 iBlue, 
 
 Or. scarlet, 
 lOrange, .... 
 
 li feet. 
 5 feet. 
 5 feet. 
 
 4 feet. 
 4 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 Dwarf. 
 
 Various 
 2 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 1 foot. 
 8 in. 
 1* feet. 
 if feet. • 
 10 feet. 
 
 June, Rosy lilac, . 2 feet. 
 

 24 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 a 
 "fl a 
 
 O — ' 
 
 o 
 
 pq 
 
 Color. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 Calendula officinalis,?.... 
 p Callistemme hortensis,g 
 
 Calliopsis tinctoria,§ 
 
 " nigra speciosag 
 b Campanula medium, §... 
 b ' ' persicafolia, \ 
 b ' ' pyramidalis| 
 
 " speculum, £.. 
 
 " Loreyii,§ .... 
 Cana Indica,")" 
 
 Pot Marigold, 
 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 June, 
 June, 
 Aug. 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 Aug. 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 Deepora'ge 
 Various, ... 
 Yel.&crim. 
 
 Various, ... 
 Various, ... 
 Various, ... 
 Blue, 
 
 Blue &wh'e 
 
 Scarlet, .... 
 
 White and 
 
 green. 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 Various, ... 
 Pur. pink,. 
 Yellow, .... 
 Yellow, .... 
 Yellow, .... 
 Saffron, .... 
 
 Various, ... 
 
 Light pur., 
 Pink, 
 
 Rose, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Pink pur.,. 
 White and 
 
 purple. 
 Blue & pur. 
 Purple, .... 
 Blue, 
 
 10 ft. 
 Vai-ious 
 
 2 J feet. 
 2| feet. 
 2| feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 6 feet. 
 
 1 foot. 
 Dwarf. 
 
 5 feet. 
 10 feet. 
 
 U feet. 
 l| feet. 
 1\ feet. 
 3 feet. 
 l£ feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 From 1 
 to 4 ft.a 
 1 foot. 
 \\ feet. 
 l| feet. 
 
 6 inch. 
 
 3 inch. 
 3£ ft.6 
 1 foot. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 2 feet, c 
 
 
 Dark showy Coreopsis 
 
 Peach-leaf Campanula, 
 Pyramidal Bell-flower, 
 Venus' Looking-glass. 
 Lorey's Bell-flower,.... 
 Indian Shot-plant, 
 Balloon Vine, 
 
 Cardiospermum halicaca- 
 
 bum.*J 
 p Catananche cperulea,J.. 
 p " lutea,J 
 
 Blue Catananche, 
 
 Yellow Catananche,... 
 Cockscomb, 
 
 Celosia christata, j 
 
 Centaurea Americana, §.. 
 
 " sudveolens,§.. 
 
 " benedicta,§ ... 
 Chriseis Californica, \ 
 " crocea,g 
 
 American Centaurea, .. 
 Yellow Sweet Sultan, .. 
 Blessed Thistle, 
 
 California Poppy, 
 
 Saffron-colored Cali- 
 fornia Poppy. 
 
 Garden Chrysanthe- 
 mum. 
 
 Beautiful Clarkia, 
 
 Elegant Clarkia, 
 
 Great-flow' d Clarkia,. 
 
 Great-flowered Cleome 
 Two-colored Collinsia, 
 
 Great-flow' d Collinsia, 
 
 Sky-blue Commelina, . 
 
 Chrysanthemum corona- 
 ria,_g 
 
 " elegans,§ 
 
 " pulchella,f.... 
 Collinsia bicolor,£." 
 
 " grandiflora,g... 
 
 a. The small varieties possess and interest which is peculiar to them- 
 selves, and look more like Daisies or China Asters than Chrysanthemums, 
 embracing various colors, and are perfectly hardy. 
 
 b. This plant is very curious in its structure, as well as beautiful, but its 
 odor is very unpleasant. 
 
 c. The roots of this plant are tuberous, and may be preserved through 
 the winter in the same manner as described for the preservation of spring- 
 flowering bulbs, and will make finer plants than those raised from seed . 
 
 i — 1 
 

 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 25 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 a 
 
 a a 
 
 O — ' 
 
 o 
 3 
 
 Color. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 Coreopsis Drummondii,? 
 '' mi nor alba, 'i 
 
 ,6 
 
 Drummond's Coreopsis 
 Dwarf Convolvulus,... 
 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 May, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 Sept., 
 July, 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 Aug. 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 Various, ... 
 Various, ... 
 White, 
 
 Orange, .... 
 Pale yellow 
 Various, ... 
 
 Pink, , , 
 Various, ... 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Light blue, 
 Various, ... 
 
 Various, ... 
 Various, ... 
 White, 
 White or 
 
 pink. 
 Varigated,. 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Purple, .... 
 White, , . . 
 Light yel., 
 White and 
 
 brown. 
 Purple, .... 
 Orange, .... 
 
 Varigated, 
 Purple, .... 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Crim. & yel 
 Crim. & yel 
 Varigated, 
 Pale rose, . . 
 Blue &wh'e 
 
 1 foot. 
 1 foot. - 
 12 feet. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 3 feet. 
 18 inch. 
 2h feet. 
 
 1£ feet. 
 2h feet. 
 6"feet. 
 
 4 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 4 feet. 
 2|feet.a 
 
 Dwarf. - 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 6 inch. — 
 
 4 in. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 
 4 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 15 feet. 
 1 J feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 1 foot. 
 1 foot. 
 1| feet. 
 l£ feet, 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 1 foot. 
 
 Dwarf White Morning 
 Glory. 
 
 Purple-eyed Crepis, .... 
 Great-flowered Lark- 
 spur. 
 
 Branching Larkspur, .. 
 
 p Delphinium grandiflo- 
 rum.§ 
 
 " consolida,§ .. 
 
 p " elatum,§ 
 
 p " Barlowii,g... 
 p " flexuosum, .. 
 p " azureum, .... 
 b Dianthus carayophyl- 
 
 lus.g 
 p Dianthus Chinensis,§... 
 p " barbatus, £.... 
 p " superbus, §.... 
 p ' ' plumarius, \ . . 
 
 p " alpinus, \ 
 
 Didiscus cnerulea,§ 
 
 Barlow's Larkspur,.... 
 Chinese Pink, 
 
 
 Superb Pink, 
 
 Feathered, or Pheas- 
 ant-eye Pink. 
 Alpine, or Dwarf Pink, 
 Sky-blue Didiscus, . ... 
 
 Great Yellow Foxglove 
 Woolly-flowered Fox- 
 glove. 
 Purple Hyacinth Bean, 
 
 Varigated Euphorbia, 
 
 Painted Gaillardia, ... . 
 Two-colored Gillardia, 
 Three-colored Gilia,... 
 Slender-flowered Gilia 
 
 p Digitalis purpurea,?.... 
 p " alba, ? 
 
 p " ochroleuca,? . 
 
 Dolichos labbab,*f 
 
 Erysimum peroffskia- 
 
 num.§ 
 Euphorbia variegata,J... 
 Eutoca viscida,? 
 
 Gilia tricolor,? 
 
 " tenuiflora,? 
 
 
 Godetia Lindleyana,g....JLindley's Primrose,... 
 
 a. Dianthus. — " The flower of God, or divine flower." — Loudon. 
 
__ . 
 
 26 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 a 
 
 a a 
 
 O ■■-< 
 
 o 
 
 5 
 
 Color. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 Godetia rubicunda,? ,,, 
 Hibiscus vesicarius,J 
 
 Helichrysum bractea- 
 
 tum.| 
 Helichrysum michran- 
 
 thum.g 
 h Hesperis matronalis,£... 
 I berus umbellata, § 
 
 Dense-flow' d Primrose 
 
 African Hibiscus, 
 
 Marsh Hibiscus, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 
 May, 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 Jnly, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 June, 
 June, 
 Aug. 
 Aug. 
 May, 
 May, 
 
 May, 
 
 1 
 
 Purple, .,, 
 
 Pink, 
 White, 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 White, 
 
 Various, ... 
 
 White, , , 
 White, ... 
 Pale purple 
 Various,.... 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Various, ... 
 White and 
 
 pink. 
 Various, ... 
 
 Yel. white, 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Scarlet, .... 
 Orange, ... 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Shad.white 
 
 Blue, 
 
 Rosy crim. 
 White, 
 Rosy lilac, . 
 Yellow, .... 
 Various, ... 
 White, 
 
 Pink, 
 
 lj feet. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 4 feet. 
 6 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 1J feet. 
 1 foot. 
 ] foot. 
 1 foot. 
 6 in. 
 
 1 foot. - 
 15 feet. - 
 
 5 feet. 
 10 feet. 
 
 5 feet. _ 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 3 feet. - 
 3 feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 20 feet.a 
 1 J feet. 
 3 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 3 feet. 
 U feet. 
 Trail' g 
 
 Trail' g 
 
 Halbert-lea' d Hibiscus, 
 Golden Eternal Flower 
 
 Large Everlasting- 
 Flower. 
 Dame's Violet, 
 
 Bitter Candytuft, 
 
 Rocket Candytuft, 
 Tenore's Candytuft,... 
 
 Cypress Vine, 
 
 " aniara,£ 
 
 
 Impatiens balsamina,f ... 
 b " elegans,^ 
 
 Tree Cypress, 
 
 Lathyrus odoratus, :; 'g.... 
 Lavateria trimestris,§.... 
 
 Leptosiphon androssa- 
 
 ceus.§ 
 Limnanthus Douglasii,§. 
 
 Scarlet Morning Glory 
 Sweet Pea, 
 
 Common Lavateria, ... 
 
 Androsace-like Leptos- 
 iphon. 
 Douglas' Limnanthus, 
 Scarlet Cardinal flower 
 Fulgent " "... 
 Splendid " "... 
 Brick-red Loasa 
 
 Lupinus Hortwegii,t 
 
 " Cruikshankii,f. 
 
 Malope grandiflorum,§... 
 " lutea,f 
 
 Cruikshank's Lupin,.. 
 
 Grand-flow' g Malope,. 
 White Malope, 
 
 Fragrant Martynea, ... 
 
 Yellow " 
 
 
 Mesembryanthemum 
 
 chrystallinum.f 
 Mesembryanthemum 
 chrystallinum glabrumf 
 
 Dew Plant, 
 
 
 a. This plant is very curious in its structure. If slightly touched, 
 a poison, causing a painful blister, which does not pass off for seve 
 
 ejecting 
 •al days. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 27 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 bD 
 
 a 
 
 a a 
 
 o "« 
 
 o 
 
 s 
 
 Color. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 
 
 June, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 6 in. 
 
 
 July, 
 
 Yel. spot'd 
 
 6 in. 
 
 ' ' cardinalis, f Scarlet Monkey-flower, 
 
 July, 
 
 Scarlet, .... 
 
 6 in. 
 
 " moschatus,f ... Musk-scented Monkey- 
 
 July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 6 in. 
 
 flower. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Aug. 
 
 Various, ... 
 
 2 feet.a 
 
 I velofPeru. 
 
 
 
 
 " longiflora,f....|Long-flowered " ...i Aug. 
 
 White, 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 " tricolor,! |Three-colored " ...! Aug. 
 
 3-colored,.. 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 " alba,f White " ...| Aug. 
 
 White, 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 MaurandiaBarclayana*f Barclay's Maurandia,J Aug. 
 
 
 6 feet. 
 
 " rosea,*| Rose-colored " ..J Aug. 
 
 
 6 feet. 
 
 " albaflora, *f.. White-flowered " ... 
 
 Aug. 
 
 White, 
 
 6 feet. 
 
 
 July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 5 feet, 
 
 " charantia,f . 
 
 
 July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 5 feet. 
 
 
 Opposite-leaved Nerno- 
 
 May, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 6 in. - 
 
 
 T 
 
 June, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 8 in. 
 
 
 phila. 
 
 
 
 
 Ear-leaved Nemophila, j June, 
 
 White 
 
 8 in. 
 
 " atomaria,§.... 
 
 Dotted-flowered " ...| June, 
 
 Purple, 
 
 8 in. 
 
 " grandiflora,§. 
 
 Great-flowered " ...j June, 
 
 Blue, 
 
 8 in. 
 
 
 
 Light blue 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 
 Trailing Nolana, : July, 
 
 Blue 
 
 3 in. 
 
 6 (Enothera grandiflora, j 
 
 Great-flowered Even-| July, 
 ing Primrose. 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 4 feet. 
 
 " purpurea, J .. 
 
 Purple-flowered " ...j July, 
 
 Purple, 
 
 2 J feet. 
 
 " nocturna,-f .. 
 
 Night-smelling Prim-i July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 " tretaptera,§ . 
 
 White-flowered Even-j July, 
 ing Primrose. 
 
 White, 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 b " longiflora,§.. 
 
 Long-flowered " ...i July, 
 
 Yellow, .... 
 
 3 feet. 
 
 Papaver somniferurn,J... 
 
 Petunia phcenecia, J 
 
 ' ' nictagynaflora, J 
 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 White, 
 
 2 feet. 
 
 
 Orange, ... 
 Purple, 
 
 2jfeet.6 
 
 Spread c ~ 
 
 
 June, 
 
 Large-flow' g Petunia, . 
 
 June, 
 
 White, , , , 
 
 ljfeet.c 
 
 a. If the roots of these plants, though classed as tendt 
 
 >r annuals, 
 
 oe taken 
 
 up and preserved through the winter as described for 
 
 bulbous roots, they 
 
 will flower perennially. 
 
 
 
 b. May be propagated by dividing the roots as soon a 
 
 3 the foliage is dead. 
 
 The plants from seed do not flower until the third year. 
 
 
 
 c. From these two species have been produced innun 
 
 lerable varieties, all 
 
 of which can be propagated from cuttings or layers. 
 
 Seedlings vary from 
 
 the mother plant. 
 
 
 
28 THE AMATEUKS' GUIDE 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 pq 
 
 Color. 
 
 Habit. 
 
 Phlox Drummondii,?. 
 
 P 
 
 V 
 
 P 
 
 P 
 
 P 
 
 V 
 
 p 
 
 sabulata,?. 
 
 suaveolens,J 
 
 nivalis, f 
 
 rnacalata,? , 
 
 Listonia,? , 
 
 "Van Houteii,? , 
 
 Wilderii,? , 
 
 Portulacca splendens,?.., 
 " thellusoni,?.. 
 
 " lutea, I 
 
 " alba,? 
 
 ^Primula veris,f 
 
 p " elatior,? 
 
 p " farinosa,? 
 
 p " nivalis,? 
 
 p " Scotica, § 
 
 Reseda odorata,? 
 
 Sapiglossis atropurpu 
 rea.f 
 
 p Senecio carnea, \ 
 
 p " elegans,? 
 
 p " alba,§ 
 
 Scabiosa atropurpurea,?. 
 Schizanthus pinnatus,t- 
 
 " Prestii,f. 
 
 " Chiliensis,f. 
 
 " humilis,f 
 
 Silene armeria alba,g., 
 
 " pendala,? 
 
 " armeria, | 
 
 Schizopetalon Walkerii,? 
 
 Tagetes patula,f 
 
 " erecta,f 
 
 Thunbergia alata,*f. 
 
 Drummond's Phlox 
 
 Moss-pink 
 
 Sweet-scented 
 
 Snow-white 
 
 Flora's Boquet 
 
 Lady Liston's 
 
 Van Houtte's 
 
 Wilder' s 
 
 Splended Portulacca, . . 
 
 Scarlet " 
 
 Yellow " 
 
 White " 
 
 Cowslip, 
 
 Oxlip Primrose, 
 
 Bird's-eye Primrose, .., 
 
 Snowy Primrose, - 
 
 Scotch Primrose, 
 
 Sweet-scented Mignon- 
 ette. 
 
 Tongue-shaped Sapi- 
 glossis. 
 
 Flesh-colored Jacobea 
 
 Elegant " .. 
 
 White " .. 
 
 Sweet Scabious, 
 
 Pinnate-leaved Schiz 
 anthus. 
 
 Priest's Schizanthus,. 
 
 Chilian " 
 
 Dwarf " 
 
 Lobel' s White-flowered 
 Catchfly. 
 
 Pendulous-flow' d 
 
 Lobel' s 
 
 Walker's Schizopeta- 
 lon. 
 
 French Marigold, 
 
 African " 
 
 Winged Thunbergia,.. 
 
 July, 
 
 April 
 
 June, 
 
 May, 
 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 
 Aug. 
 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 
 May, 
 
 Mar. 
 
 June, 
 
 April 
 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 
 July, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 
 Aug. 
 Aug. 
 Aug. 
 June, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 July, 
 
 July, 
 July, 
 July, 
 
 Various, 
 Pink, ... 
 White, . 
 White, . 
 Pur. red, 
 Red, ....' 
 Red & wh'e 
 Deep red,. 
 Rosy crim 
 Scarlet, ... 
 Yellow, ... 
 White, .... 
 Pale yellow 
 Yellow, . 
 
 Red, 
 
 Purple, . . 
 
 Red, 
 
 Greenish 
 
 Dark velvet 
 
 Flesh color 
 Purple, . 
 
 White, . 
 Various, 
 Lilac, .. 
 
 White, 
 Pink, .. 
 Pink, .. 
 Pink, .. 
 
 Pink, .. 
 Pink, .. 
 White, 
 
 Various, .. 
 Various, .. 
 Buff, 
 
 1 foot. 
 6 in.a 
 
 2 feet. 
 6 in. 
 
 2 feet. 
 \\ feet. 
 if feet. 
 
 3 feet. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 
 foot. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 6 in. 
 
 1 foot. 
 
 \\ feet, 
 
 \\ feet. 
 H feet. 
 H feet. 
 
 2 "feet. 
 2 feet. 
 
 2 feet. 
 2 feat. 
 1 foot. 
 18 in. 
 
 1 foot. 
 18 in. 
 1 foot. 
 
 18 in. 
 18 in. 
 16 feet. 
 
 a. Phlox should be shaded when in a frozen state, as the flower-buds are 
 formed in autumn, and are injured by the sun in winter and spring. They 
 may be propagated by dividing the roots after blooming for early flowering 
 sorts, and in the spring for the late ones, and also from cuttings and seed. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 29 
 
 CATALOGUE OF FLOWER-SEED— Continued. 
 
 Thunbergia alata Fry- Fryer's Orange-flower-i July, (Orange, 
 
 erii.*f 
 Tropajolum peregri- 
 
 num.*| 
 Verbena chamsedifolia,? 
 
 ed Thunbergia. 
 Canary Bird-flower, 
 
 Germander-leav' d Ver- 
 vain. 
 
 b Viola tricolor,? JHeartease, 
 
 b " odorata, § iSweet-scented Violet, . . 
 
 b " grandiflora,g Great-flowered " ... 
 
 Zinnia elegans alba, J lElegant White Zinnia, 
 
 6 feet. 
 
 coccinea,J 
 
 aurea,J 
 
 purpurea, J , 
 
 Scarlet Zinnia,. 
 
 Golden 
 
 Purple, 
 
 July, (Canary, ... 12 feet. 
 
 May, Various, ... [Trail' ga 
 
 April (Various, ...|8 in. 
 
 April iBlue, >6 in. 
 
 April 'Various, ...16 in. 
 July, j White, ... 
 July, Scarlet, .. 
 
 July, JGold, 
 
 July, jPurple,... 
 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 2 feet. 
 
 a. From this old and much-esteemed flower have been raised all the 
 present splended varieties, embracing nearly every color. If the plants are 
 covered in October with long manure to the depth of six inches, they may 
 be preserved through the winter. Young plants are preferable. 
 
30 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 BULBOUS AND TUBE-ROOTED FLOWERS. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 Ch 
 
 2.5 
 
 Color. 
 
 Amaryllis formossima, 
 
 Dahlia, 
 
 Ferraria pavonia, 
 
 Fritillaria imperialis, .. 
 
 " Persica, .... 
 
 " melegaris, .. 
 
 Galanthus nivalis, 
 
 Gladiolus communis,.. 
 
 Hyacinthus, 
 
 Irandia monogynia, ... 
 
 Iris xiphium, 
 
 " xiphiodes, 
 
 Lilium tigrinum, 
 
 japouicum, ... 
 Narcissus, 
 
 Paeona officinalis, 
 
 " tenufolia, 
 
 " Siberica, 
 
 " Whitleji, 
 
 " Reevesii, 
 
 " moutan, , 
 
 ' ' moutan pa'pa- 
 
 veracia. 
 
 Polianthus tuberosa, ... 
 
 Ranunculus Asiaticus, 
 
 Tulipa, 
 
 Jacobean Lily, 
 
 Dahlia, 
 
 Mexican Tiger Flower, 
 
 Crown Imperial, 
 
 Persian Lily, 
 
 Chequered Lily, 
 
 Snow Drop, 
 
 Corn Flag, 
 
 Hyacinth, 
 
 Crocus, 
 
 Spanish Iris, 
 
 English Irish, 
 
 Tiger-spotted Lily, .... 
 
 Japan Lily, 
 
 Common Daffodil, 
 
 Double Crims'n Paeona 
 Fennel-leaved Paeona,. 
 
 Siberian Paeona, 
 
 Whitlej's Paeona, 
 
 Reeve's Paeona, 
 
 Tree Paeona, 
 
 Poppy-flowered Tree 
 Paeona. 
 
 Tuberose, 
 
 Asiatic Ranunculus,... 
 Tulip, 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 
 Oct., 
 
 Oct., 
 
 June, 
 June, 
 Oct., 
 
 Sept. 
 
 June, 
 May, 
 Oct., 
 
 In 
 4 
 2 
 2 
 4 
 4 
 2 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 1 
 3 
 3 
 2 
 
 Aug. 2 
 April 4 
 
 July, 
 Aug. 
 July, 
 April 
 May, 
 a 
 
 M.ar., 
 July, 
 April 
 Mar., 
 
 June, 
 
 a 
 
 Au<r. 
 
 June, 
 
 May, 
 June, 
 
 Sept. 
 July, 
 
 May, 
 
 Deep red. 
 Various. 
 
 Purple. 
 
 Various. 
 
 White. 
 
 Various. 
 << 
 
 Various. 
 
 Orange. 
 Various. 
 White and 
 yellow. a 
 Crimson, b 
 
 " 6 
 White.6 
 
 " b 
 Purple.6 
 Various. c 
 White.c 
 
 White. 
 
 Various. 
 
 Various. 
 
 a. The double variety is better known as "Butter and Eggs." Some 
 species (Jonquille) are various shades of yellow. The scent of some varie- 
 ties is said to produce dangerous effects upon the nerves. 
 
 b. These may be propagated by dividing the roots (in September) into as 
 many pieces as they are tubers with buds. 
 
 c. The Tree Paeonas can be propagated from seed, suckers, layers, or 
 grafting. Long manure should be placed over Paeonas in the fall for pro- 
 tection, and which will tend greatly to increase the strength of their bloom. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 31 
 
 DECIDUOUS PLANTS. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 bfi 
 
 1 a 
 
 O -H 
 
 bC 
 
 ° 9: a 
 ■B 2 2 
 
 Color. 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 Double-flowering Rose 
 
 June 
 
 Seed and Pink. 
 
 
 Campion. 
 
 
 suckers. 
 
 " alba, 
 
 White-flowering Rosej " 
 Campion. 
 
 " White. 
 
 Amygdalus pnmila plena 
 
 Double-flowering Al-jApril 
 
 mond. 
 Double-flower' g Peach " 
 
 Suckers, ... Pink. 
 1 
 
 
 it a 
 
 
 Ja pa n ese W i nd-fl o wer. 
 
 Sept. 
 
 Cuttings, ..[Pur. red. 
 
 
 Broad-leaved Birth- 
 
 July 
 
 Cut. & lay. [Purplish 
 
 
 wort. 
 
 
 I brown .a 
 
 Bignonia radicans,* 
 
 Scarlet trumphet-flow- 
 
 it 
 
 Cuttings, .'Scarlet. 
 
 " grandiflora,* .. 
 
 er. 
 Large-flowered trum- 
 phet flower. . 
 
 tt 
 
 " j Yellow. 
 
 ! 
 
 
 Sweet-scented Shrub, . 
 
 June 
 
 Cut. & suck 
 
 Brown. 
 
 
 Yel. trumphet monthly 
 Honeysuckle. 
 
 (< 
 
 Cut. & lay. 
 
 Yellow, b — 
 
 " hirsuta,* .... 
 
 Hairy Honeysuckle,... 
 
 a tt 
 
 it 
 
 Caprifolium periclyme- 
 
 Woodbine Honeysuc- 
 
 << j " (Pale yel. 
 
 num.* 
 
 kle. 
 
 | low. 
 
 Caprifolium belgicum .* . . . 
 
 Dutch sweet-scented 
 
 » i " Yel. var- 
 
 
 Honeysuckle. 
 
 igated. 
 
 Caprifolium belgicum 
 
 Dutch monthly sweet-j " j iCreamy 
 
 menstrus.* 
 
 scent' d Honeysuckle! variga'd. 
 
 Ceanothus Americanus, . 
 
 New Jersey Tea, j " |Cuttings, ..jWhite. 
 
 Chionanthus Virginica, . 
 
 Virginia Fringe-Tree, .| " |Budding, ..| 
 
 
 Alder-leaved Clethra, . 
 
 Aug. Bud. & lay. " 
 
 Cy donia. Japonica, 
 
 
 May Cut. & sucklBril. red. 
 
 
 Purple-flowered .La- 
 
 << Cuttine-s. JPumle. 
 
 
 burnum. 
 
 i 
 
 
 Cream-colored Labur- 
 num. 
 
 tt 
 
 " iCream. 
 
 " alba, 
 
 
 Mar. 
 
 tt 
 
 « iPink.c 
 
 » jWhite.c 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 * Denotes climbers. 
 
 a. In some catalogues designated "Pipe Vine." 
 
 5. " Caprifolium. — A poetical name, signifying goat-leaf; that is to say a 
 
 leaf which climbs like a goat. — Loudon. 
 
 c. Thrives best in a loamy soil, and greatly admired for their fragarnce. 
 
 i 
 
32 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 DECIDUOUS PLANTS— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Deutzia scabra,. 
 
 gracalis, 
 Diervilla humulis, 
 
 Euonj'mus latifolius, . 
 
 Helesia tretaptera, , 
 
 " diptera, 
 
 Hydrangea hortensis, .... 
 
 " quercifolia, .. 
 
 " Japonica, ... 
 Jasniinum officinale,.*... 
 
 Rough-leaved Deutzia. 'May 
 
 Slender Deutzia, " 
 
 Yellow-flowered Bush. July 
 
 Honeysuckle. 
 Broad-leaved Euony-June 
 
 mus. 
 
 Snow-drop Tree, JApril 
 
 Silver Bell Tree, j " 
 
 Chang' ble Hydrangea, July 
 Oak-leaved Hydrangea ' 
 Japan Hydrangea, 
 
 Common White Jas-,June 
 ) mine. 
 Kerria japonica, IJapan Globe-flower, ...i 
 
 Cuttings & 
 layers. 
 
 Cuttings & 
 seed. 
 
 Cut. & suck 
 
 it 
 
 It 
 
 Cut. &suck 
 
 White. 
 
 a 
 Yellow, a 
 
 Green.6 
 
 White. 
 << 
 
 Lt. pink. 
 
 a 
 
 tc 
 White. 
 
 Lagerstrcemia Indica, . 
 regime, . 
 
 Lavandula spicata, ... 
 
 Ligustrum vulgare, ... 
 
 " Japonica,. 
 
 Lonicera Tartarica, .. 
 
 " alpigena, .... 
 
 Lycium barbarum,*. 
 Magnolia conspicua, . 
 
 Indian Crape Myrtle, ...Aug. 
 . Oblong-leaved Crapej " 
 
 Myrtle'.. 
 . Spike-flow' d Lavander July 
 
 .Common Privet, June 
 
 . Japan Privet, ' 
 
 . Tartarian Honeysuckle! ' 
 , Red-berried Honey-i " 
 
 suckle. 
 , Willow-leaved Lyciumj " 
 White Chinese Magno-J " 
 
 lia. 
 Soulange's Purple! " 
 
 Magnolia. 
 Chinese Purple Mag-, " 
 nolia. 
 
 Swamp Magnolia, ! " 
 
 Rose Accacia, | " 
 
 Spirese Douglasii, iDouglas' Spires, July 
 
 prunifolia plena, .|Double Prune-leaved May 
 
 i Spireme. 
 hypericafolia, .... jHyperica-leav' d Spirese June 
 
 bella, [Pretty Spirese, j " 
 
 Reevesii, jReeve's Spireas, j " 
 
 Soulangiana, 
 
 purpurea, 
 
 glauca, .. 
 Robinia hispida, . 
 
 " .Yellow. 
 
 Cuttings, ..purple. 
 " ' iRed. 
 
 I , i 
 
 " 'Lilac. 
 iCut. & seed White. 
 
 ICut. & lay.jPink.c 
 " ! Yellow. 
 
 " [Violet. 
 
 IBudding &;Creamy 
 ; seed. white. 
 
 " iPurple. 
 
 Seed & suck! White. 
 
 Cut. & lay.|Pink. 
 " ;Rosvlilac 
 
 " White. 
 
 iPink. 
 iWhite. 
 
 a "Diervilla. — A pretty low shrub." — Loudon. 
 
 b. Very desirable for their ornamental berries in autumn. 
 
 c. "Lonicera. — .Comprising the species with a shrubby upright stem, 
 neither climbing or prostrate plants." — Loudon. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 33 
 
 DECIDUOUS PLANTS— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Symphoria racemosa, .... 
 
 ' ' glomerata, . . . 
 
 Syringa persica purpurea 
 
 Common name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 " alba, 
 
 vulgaris, 
 
 rosea grandiflora 
 
 " Chinensis, 
 Wistaria sinesis, ... 
 
 Clustered Snowberry, . July 
 Common Snowberry, 
 Purple Persian Lilac,. iMay 
 
 White Persian Lilac, .. | " 
 Common Lilac, 
 Large-flowered Rose 
 
 Lilac. 
 Chinese Lilac, 
 Chinese Wistaria, May 
 
 Cut. k lay., Pink. a 
 Purple. 
 
 Cuttings & 
 suckers. 
 
 Cut. & lay 
 
 'White. 
 iLilac. 
 
 jRose. 
 
 Violet, 
 Lt.pur.J 
 
 a. The berries of these plants are very ornamental, remaining after the 
 leaves have fallen. 
 
 b. Without exception, this is the most magnificient of all deciduous climb- 
 ers. It is perfectly hardy, and if the following treatment be resorted to, it 
 will flower three times during the season. As soon as the first flowering 
 is over, cut off the young shoots to within three or four eyes of the stem 
 and deprive the plant of its leaves, and it will bloom again in August. By 
 repeating the same process as soon as the second flowering is over, the 
 plant will bloom again in October. This treatment does not apply to 
 young plants, but only to such as have become well established. 
 
34 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 EVERGREENS. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 o & 
 
 Color. 
 
 Abies communis, f 
 
 " pulcherrima, | 
 
 " Douglasii,t 
 
 Auracaria iinbricata,f... 
 Bignonia grandifolia, *f 
 
 Buxus suffrutieosa, 
 
 " arborescens, f .... 
 
 " myrtifolio, 
 
 Caprifolium sempervi- 
 
 rens.*t 
 Caprifolium flexuosa,*f. 
 
 " Japonica,*f 
 
 Cedrus deodar, f 
 
 Cypressus thoyoides,f ... 
 " semper virensf 
 
 Epigaea repens, 
 
 Gelsemium sempervi- 
 
 rens.*t 
 Hedera helix, *f 
 
 " arborea, 
 
 " Hibernica, *f 
 
 Ilex latifolia Japonica, ... 
 
 " opaca, 
 
 " aquifolium, 
 
 " aurea, 
 
 Jasmiuum revolutum,*f 
 
 Norway Spruce, 
 
 European Silver Fir, . 
 
 Douglas' Spruce Fir, 
 
 Chili Pine, 
 
 Large-flowered Trum- 
 phet-flower. 
 
 Dwarf Box, 
 
 Large Tree Box, 
 
 Intermediate Box, 
 
 Evergr'n Scar. Month 
 ly Honeysuckle. 
 
 Chinese Twining Hon- 
 eysuckle. 
 
 Japan Honeysuckle,... 
 
 Deodar Cedar, 
 
 White Cedar, 
 
 Common Evergreen 
 Cypress. 
 
 Ground Laurel, 
 
 Evergreen Gelsemium, 
 
 June 
 
 June 
 
 Cuttings. 
 
 Cut. & slips 
 
 Cut. & lay 
 
 Cuttings. 
 Cut.& seed 
 
 Cuttings. 
 
 April 
 June 
 
 Common Ivy, 
 
 Tree Ivy, 
 
 Irish Ivy, 
 
 Broad-leaVed Japan 
 Holly. 
 
 American Holly, 
 
 English Holly, 
 
 Golden-striped Holly, 
 Curled-flow' d Jasmine 
 
 Slips 
 
 Cuttings ... 
 
 Cut.& slips. 
 
 June 
 
 June 
 
 Seed. 
 
 Cut. & suck 
 
 Or. scar. 
 
 Scarlet. 
 Orange. 
 
 Flesh. 
 Yellow a 
 
 White.6 
 
 Yellow. 
 
 * Denotes climbers. t Large varieties. 
 
 a. A beautiful plant, exquisitely fragrant, and producing its flowers in 
 great profusion. The juice, as well as the flowers of this plant, are poison- 
 ous. Frequently called the " Carolina Yellow Jasamine." 
 
 b. The slowness of growth of the Holly is frequently objected to. This de- 
 fect is fully made up in the beautiful scarlet berries which remain on the tree 
 through the winter. The seed of the Holly do not vegetate till the second 
 year after being sown. Plants taken from the woods, early in the spring, 
 will be found the best method for securing these beautiful native trees. 
 

 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 35 
 
 EVERGREENS— Continued. 
 
 Botanical name. 
 
 Common name. 
 
 •5 
 
 3 S 
 o 
 
 m 
 
 Method of 
 propaga- 
 tion. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Jasminum odoratissi- 
 mum.*f 
 
 Sweet-scented Jasmine 
 
 June 
 
 Cut.& suck 
 Cuttings. 
 
 It 
 
 Seed. 
 
 Cuttings. 
 
 Suckers .... 
 
 a 
 
 Cut., bud., 
 
 & graft. 
 
 Cut. k slips 
 
 Cuttings ... 
 it 
 
 Layers 
 
 Cut.& seed. 
 << 
 
 a 
 
 ii 
 
 ii 
 
 ii 
 
 ii 
 
 Suckers .... 
 ii 
 ii 
 ii 
 
 White. 
 
 Red. a 
 
 " a 
 
 White. 
 
 Yellow. 
 b. 
 
 Pink. 
 
 White. 
 
 ii 
 
 " c 
 
 Pale w'te 
 White. 
 Milk w'e 
 Greenish 
 white. 
 
 " prostrata,f ... 
 " Hibernica,t... 
 " Virginiana,f.. 
 " communis, f... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Narrow-leaved Laurel, 
 Grand-flowered Mag- 
 nolia. 
 Ilex-leaved Mahonia,. 
 
 June 
 a 
 ti 
 
 May 
 
 " angustifolia, .... 
 Magnolia grandiflora,y.. 
 
 Mahonia aquifoliuru,"j\.. 
 
 
 
 
 Rhododendron mami- 
 
 mum.f 
 Thuya occidentalism 
 
 American Rhododen- 
 dron. 
 American Arbor Vitae, 
 
 June 
 
 " Tartarica,f 
 
 Tartarian Arbor Vitae, 
 Weeping Arbor Vita?, 
 Snow-ball garden Rose 
 Tree-like Snow-ball, ... 
 Cranberry-tree Snow- 
 ball. 
 
 June 
 
 It 
 
 July 
 
 Aug 
 it 
 
 Sept 
 
 
 " oxycoceos, .. 
 
 " flacida, 
 
 Free-blooming Yucca, . 
 Narrow-leaved Yucca, 
 
 • 
 
 " augustifolia, 
 
 a. These varieties of the Laurel are shrubs of low growth, and are poison- 
 ous to animals. 
 
 b. Commonly called "Balm of Gilead." 
 
 c. This beautiful tree, bearing a fruit of a pleasant acid taste, resembling 
 cranberries, is either in fruit or flower most of the year. 
 
 < 
 
86 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 THE ROSE 
 
 " The Rose is Nature's moralist — upon its leaf appear 
 
 The smile of hope, the blush of love, and sorrow's tender tear.'' 
 
 This beautiful and favorite flower has justly been denominated 
 the Pride of Flora, and frequently been made the theme of the 
 poet. Language is inadequate to convey a full idea of its delicate 
 tints, enchanting colors, sweet perfume, and harmonious outlines. 
 All Nature seems to have been taxed in its production, and her 
 treasures heavily drawn upon in combining the sweetness and 
 beauty of the Rose. There is no limit to the variety and beauty 
 of her forms and colors. Made the symbol and interpreter of the 
 affections, if her tender and expressive language be blotted out, 
 what a chasm in the language of the heart would be found? The 
 emblemn of purity, the adornment of beauty, and expressive of hu- 
 man affection at the tomb ! 
 
 In contemplating the varied and beautiful works of Nature, no 
 other flower excites the admiration of the beholder to the same 
 extent as the Rose. How insignificant and imperfect appear the 
 works of man compared to this perfect specimen of Nature's gifts? 
 The mind is elevated in contemplating her grandeur. The profu- 
 sion and loveliness of her flowers, as displayed in the different va- 
 rieties, exalts our conceptions of the wisdom and goodness of the 
 Creator. She expands to Heaven her grateful fragrance and to 
 man her cheerful smiles; and, to some extent, is the promoter 
 of human joy and the soother of sorrow — fit emblem of the victor's 
 triumph, the young bride's blushes, and the tomb. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 37 
 
 In the cultivation of the Rose we experience an exquisite pleas- 
 ure. It is a sense of the beautiful, — a faculty of the soul which is 
 awakened. We perceive in her colors, forms, and delightful 
 odors, the harmony of Nature. "They recall the past and fore- 
 shadow the future; and if their fading hues and scattered petals 
 tell of blighted hope and departed joys of early life, so do their 
 busting seeds and fresh shoots whisper of a future, which shall 
 restore in fresh beauty and unfading verdue the loved, the cher- 
 ished, and the lost." Let us then endeavor to carefully preserve, 
 and if possible augment, the number of these sublime and har- 
 monious gifts of Nature, for they largely contribute to the comfort 
 of man. The rose should have a place in every garden, and may 
 be propagated from seed, cuttings, budding, grafting, and layer- 
 ing. These various methods will be found described under their 
 respective heads. 
 
 GROWING ROSES FROM SEED. 
 
 This is one of the most interesting methods of propagating the 
 Queen of Flora. Each of the other modes, hereinafter described, 
 may excite the admiration of the Amateur, and, when successful, 
 amply reward him for his labor; but, should he be fortunate in a 
 single instance in his experiments in this particular and interest- 
 ing branch of practical Floriculture, he will be more than compen- 
 sated for his efforts by the pleasure which he will then enjoy, and 
 be enabled to impart to the admirers of Flora, in beholding the 
 new and beautiful tints which Nature, assisted by Art, has im- 
 planted in and around the object of his care and attention. 
 
 A large field is here opened to the Amateur, and should the 
 author be instrumental in inducing any to enter it, he trusts that 
 they may have their labors rewarded with success, and be enabled 
 to enjoy the same pleasure which he experienced when beholding 
 the success of some of his first experiments in this interesting and 
 beautiful branch of Floriculture. 
 
38 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 IMPREGNATING THE SEED. 
 
 To be successful in this operation, some practice is necessary; 
 but, by careful attention, success will eventually reward the efforts 
 of the operator. Roses have in their centre thready filaments, 
 surrounded by anthers. These, when ripe, contain a yellow dust, 
 the pollen of the plant. This pollen should be applied to the tip 
 of the pistil, which is in the very centre of the flower, when it 
 bursts, and, if the plant should seed, generally impregnates the 
 same to more or less extent. The flower to be operated upon to 
 produce the seed, should be deprived of ita anthers early in the 
 morning, with a pair of small cissors. During the day, or the 
 next, with the aid of a fine camel-hair pencil, obtain the pollen 
 from the plant you desire to cross, and apply the same to the 
 pistil of the plant from which you have extracted the anthers. 
 Wet or damp weather is unfavorable to the success of this experi- 
 ment. In order to insure success, the pollen should be dry and 
 powdery. About the first of November the seed will be matured, 
 and should then be gathered, retained in their capsules, and buried 
 in sand, until the following spring About the first of May en- 
 suing, having prepared the ground, in a shady position, which 
 should be enriched by the addition of well-rotted manure, or 
 leaf -mould, well pulverized, remove the seed from the hips and 
 sow them thinly over the top of the soil. Take a board or spade 
 and press them level on the earth, and cover to the depth of half an 
 inch with sand, leaf-mould, or soil, finely sifted. Give gentle wa- 
 terings occasionally with a fine rose. When the plants have made 
 a growth of three or four inches, they may bo removed, by the aid 
 of the garden-trowel, and placed in pots of good rich earth. Place 
 in a shady position, and give gentle waterings. In a few weeks, 
 if the season be not too far advanced, they may be planted out to 
 remain. The bloom of the third year will generally decide the 
 merits of the plant. Many varieties will bloom the first year, and 
 some within the first six months after sowing the seed. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 39 
 
 Some few years since, on the 8th of February, the author planted 
 eight rose-seed, gathered from Semperflorens, (or Sanguinea,) in 
 a box fourteen inches long, ten inches wide, and six inches deep. 
 In the bottom of this box was placed charcoal, well pulverized, one 
 inch deep. Over this, soil composed of well-rotted hog-manure, 
 loam, and leaf-mould, in equal parts, finely sifted, to the depth 
 of four inches, was placed. After leveling the soil, the seed were 
 equally distributed over the top of the same, and covered with sand 
 a quarter of an inch deep, gently sprinkled, and placed in a south- 
 ern window. At the expiration of five weeks, seven plants made 
 their appearance, and by the 10th of April following, five rewarded 
 his efforts by showing bloom. The flowers, however, consisted at 
 most of six petals, and all but one were inferior in color to the 
 rose from which the seed were gathered. The pollen was taken 
 from Mellez, (or The a Fleurs Jaune.) The second year, this 
 young plant partook largely of the habits of Mellez in the luxuri- 
 ance of its growth ; showing, for a young plant, indications of pro- 
 fuse bloom, fragrance, blush or creamy flowers, and beautifully 
 cupped. Unfortunately, the care of this anxiously-watched and 
 nurtured plant devolved on others, who, from excessive moisture, 
 caused it to perish. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 
 
 The proper time to take cuttings from the mother plant is when 
 the sap is in full motion, in order that, in returning by the bark, 
 it may form a callus, or protruding ring of granular substance, be- 
 tween the bark and wood, whence the roots proceed. As this 
 callus, or ring of spongy matter, is generally best formed in ri- 
 pened wood, the cutting, when taken from the mother plant, 
 should be selected from such wood only as has ripened, and which 
 has always the greatest tendency to produce roots. This is the 
 true principle in the choice of cuttings. They should be made 
 from two to four inches in length, having at least three eyes from 
 
40 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 the lower end, which should be cut off smooth at the bottom, di- 
 rectly under an eye, (as shown in fig. 1,) Insert the cutting in 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 good bank sand or loam, finely sifted, from one to two inches deep, 
 pressing the sand or loam gently around the same with the hand. 
 Place them in a shady position and give gentle sprinklings of wa- 
 ter, protecting them from heavy winds. ' If exposed to the dews, 
 their rooting will be greatly accellerated. In three or four weeks, 
 they will be generally rooted, when they may be removed into pots 
 of good soil, gently watered, and again placed in the shade until 
 they have taken fresh roots. After which, they may be shifted 
 into larger pots for house culture or planted out, according to the 
 pleasure of the grower. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY BUDDING. 
 
 Nearly every variety of the rose may be propagated by budding. 
 Some varieties are difficult to manage by the other methods, but, 
 by budding, readily form handsome plants in one year. Budding 
 consists in taking an eye, or bud, attached to a portion of the bark 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 41 
 
 of one plant, and generally called a shield, and transplanting it to 
 another. The advantages in budding is that where a plant is 
 rare, a new plant can generally be had from every eye. This 
 operation may be performed from the beginning of July to the 
 last of August, the criterion being the forming of the buds in 
 axillag of the leaf of the present year. The buds are known to be 
 ready by the shield, or portion of bark to which they are attached, 
 easily parting from the wood. Having selected such buds as may 
 be required, remove the same, by inserting a sharp thin-bladed 
 knife about half an inch above the bud and passing the same about 
 one-third of the way through the wood of the shoot, come out again 
 about the same distance below it, making the cut as clean as pos- 
 sible. When the shield is removed it contains a portion of the 
 wood, which should be carefully deprived. By cutting upwards, 
 as shown in fig. 2, the danger of destroying the eye is materially 
 lessened. If the wood be dry, it will not separate easily; in which 
 case it should be thrown aside. Make an incision lengthwise 
 through the bark of the stock, about an inch long, and cross this 
 at the top by another incision, as shown in fig. 3. Raise the bark 
 very carefully, as shown in fig. 4, and insert the shield within, 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 gently pressing it to the bottom of the incision, as shown in fig. 5. 
 Great care should be taken that it is in close contact with the 
 
42 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 stock. Being satisfied on this point, which is essential to the suc- 
 cess of the operation, bind up all except the bud, with either mat- 
 ting, soft twist, or strips of cotton-cloth, (which should be moder- 
 ately dampened,) as shown in fig. 6. The bud should be left free 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 to the air, but protected from the sun or very wet weather, either 
 of which may defeat the object in view. At the expiration of two 
 weeks, the success of the undertaking will be known ; and, if suc- 
 cessful, in three weeks thereafter, the bandages should be gradu- 
 ally removed, when the stock should be cut off" about two inches 
 above the bud, which will tend to strengthen both bud and stock. 
 As soon as the bud commences to make wood, the remaining por- 
 tion of the stock above the bud should be removed in a neat man- 
 ner. Care must be taken, however, not to injure the bud, for the 
 least carelessness might remove the same from the stock. All 
 suckers must be removed, otherwise they will divert the sap from 
 the bud, in which case it must certainly perish. As the bud 
 progresses in growth, it should be supported against high winds. 
 In the fall, cut the plant down to within a foot of where the bud 
 was inserted, which will greatly strengthen it. Buds or scions may 
 be safely transported to any reasonable distance by wrapping them 
 in damp moss or paper, having first deprived them of their foliage. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 43 
 
 PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING. 
 
 This mode of propagation is performed by five different methods, 
 which will be found described under their respective heads, viz : 
 
 WHIP-GRAFTING. 
 
 This operation is performed in March and April, by first cutting 
 off the top of the stock at the desired height. Enter the knife at a 
 smooth place, about three inches below the top, and cut upwards 
 at an acute angle, thereby shaping the stock to a wedge-like form. 
 Having the scion prepared, from four to five inches in length, slope 
 the bottom so as to fit the stock as near as possible, that the inner 
 rinds of both may correspond, especially on the outer side and bot- 
 tom, as shown in fig. 7. Hold the graft carefully in its position, 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 and secure it with matting, twist, or cotton thread, covering the 
 bandage with tempered clay or grafting-wax. The union is formed 
 by the rind or sap, which is directly between the bark and wood, 
 
44 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 and if not placed directly in contact, failure is certain. The stock 
 and scion should be as near in size (diameter) as possible to insure 
 success. The scion should have at least two buds. This is a very 
 strong and handsome mode for standard roses when grafted at the 
 standard height. It makes a handsome finish, covering a part 
 of the stock which, by the other methods, if not trimmed carefully, 
 long remains a scar, and sometimes never become covered with 
 bark. The stocks should never be over an inch in diameter, and 
 nearer the size of the scion the better. If the graft should be 
 successful, it will grow freely. The bandages should then be 
 slightly loosened, but not removed, to allow for the swelling of the 
 wood. Give support by tieing securely, and carefully remove all 
 suckers. In the fall, cut the shoots down to within three or four 
 eyes of the present year's growth. 
 
 INN-ARCHING. 
 
 A sort of layering, by the common or slit process, in which the 
 talus or heel intended to throw out fibres, instead of being inserted 
 in the soil, is inserted in the wood, or between the wood and bark 
 of another plant, so as to incorporate with it. It is the most cer- 
 tain mode of propagation with plants difficult to excite to a dispo- 
 sition for rooting; and, when all other modes fail, this, when a 
 proper description of stock is to be found, is sure to succeed. 
 The stock designed to be inn-arched, and the plant from which 
 the layer or shoot is to be selected, should be near together. 
 If the branches of the plant from which the shoots are to be taken 
 are too high for the stocks, the stocks should be planted in pots 
 and elevated on posts or stands. To perform the operation, hav- 
 ing first made one of the most convenient branches or shoots ap- 
 proach the stock, mark on the body of the same the part where it 
 will most easily join the stock, and in that part of the shoot pare 
 away the bark and part of the wood two or three inches in length, 
 and in the same manner pare the stock in the proper place for 
 the juncture of the shoot. Make a slit upwards in that part 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 45 
 
 of the branch or shoot, as shown in fig. 8, and make a slit 
 downward in the stock to admit it, as shown in fig. 9. Let the 
 parts then be joined together, slipping the tongue of the shoot 
 into the slit of the stock, making both join in an exact manner, 
 as shown in fig. 10. Tie them closely together with matting or 
 cotton twist, and cover the whole with tempered clay or grafting- 
 wax. In from three to six weeks, the graft will be matured. 
 The shoot should then be severed from the parent plant, about 
 one inch below the juncture, (a,) and the top of the stock re- 
 moved, (6,) thereby transferring the shoot to the stock, and form- 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 ing a handsome and vigorous plant. The bandages should then 
 be removed, and the ends of both shoot and stock, where severed, 
 neatly trimed, or they will destroy the beauty of the plant. This 
 operation may be performed at any time when the sap is in full 
 motion. 
 
46 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROOT-GRAFTING. 
 
 This mode of propagation is performed on detached parts of the 
 roots of removed plants. In general, a piece of the root of the 
 plant of the same genus is selected, in March or April, well furn- 
 ished with fibres, and a scion placed on it in any of the ordinary 
 methods used for small stocks. Thus united, as shown in fig. 11, 
 bandage with matting or twist, and cover with tempered clay or 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 grafting-wax, and plant them deep enough to cover the ball, leav- 
 ing one eye of the scion at least above ground. In a month after 
 grafting, it may be ascertained whether the scion has united with 
 the stock by observing the progress of its buds. It is not safe to 
 remove the clay or wax under three months, till the graft be com- 
 pletely citratized. When it is taken off, the bandages should be 
 loosened where the scion appears to require more room to expand. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 47 
 
 A few weeks after, when the parts have been thus partially inured 
 to the air, and when there is no danger of the scion being blown 
 off by the wind, the whole of the bandages should be removed. 
 
 WEDGE, OR SADDLE-GRAFTING. 
 
 This operation consists in cutting off the top of the stock at any 
 desired height and slitting the same in the centre to the depth 
 of three inches, as shown in fig. 12. The graft should be from 
 
 three to four inches in length, and have at least two eyes. This 
 mode of propagation was once in high repute, but, at present, is 
 seldom resorted to. It does not make as fine a finish as either 
 of the other methods, and is very likely to break off from high 
 winds. Having thinned off the wood from each side of the same, 
 so as to enter the slit in the stock readily, fiting the outer rind or 
 bark of the scion in close contact with that of the stock, bandage 
 with matting or twist, and cover the whole with tempered clay or 
 grafting-wax, and treat as described for whip-grafting. 
 
48 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 CLEFT-GRAFTING. 
 
 This method is frequently resorted to for standard roses. The 
 stock used for this purpose should be larger than the graft. The 
 graft should be selected from well-ripened wood, and cut into 
 lengths of three or four inches, having at least two or three eyes 
 or buds. In performing the operation, the stock having been cut 
 down to the desired height, insert the point of the knife at a in 
 fig. 13, nearly to the centre or pith of the stock, and draw it 
 downward, in an oblique direction, one and a half inches below 
 the top of the stock. Again insert the knife at b, making a cor- 
 respoding cut, so that it terminates at a point, (c,) cutting out a 
 piece of the stock, and forming an opening in shape like the letter 
 V. The graft (d, in fig. 14,) should then be cut to fit the opening 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 in the stock as near as possible, and the inner rind or bark of both 
 stock and graft should be brought into exact contact, as shown in 
 fig. 15, to insure success. Secure with matting or cotton twist, 
 and cover the juncture with tempered clay or grafting-wax. As 
 soon as the graft begins to make new wood, the bandages should 
 be loosened; and, if the wound is healed they may be removed- 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 49 
 
 If, however, the union is not perfected, the bandages should be 
 replaced, leaving room for the expansion of the wood. Give sup- 
 port by tieing securely, and carefully remove all suckers. Cut the 
 plant down in the fall to within three or four eyes of the present 
 year's growth. 
 
 PROPAGATION BY LAYERING. 
 
 The operation of layering is generally commenced before the 
 ascent of the sap, or delayed until it is fully up. Any young 
 shoot of eighteen inches or two feet in length will serve for this 
 purpose. The shoot intended to become a new plant, first being 
 gently bent to the ground, and an eye selected at a convenient 
 distance from the mother plant, is half separated, about half an 
 inch below the eye, as shown at a in fig. 15. While this permits 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 ^ 
 
 the ascent of the sap at the season of its rising, the remaining half, 
 being cut through and separated, forms a dam or sluice to the de- 
 scending sap, which, thus interrupted in its progress, exudes at 
 the wound, in the form of a granulous protruberance, which 
 4 
 
50 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 throws out roots. If the cut or notch in the shoot does not pene- 
 trate at least half way through, some plants will not form a 
 nucleus the first season. On the other hand, if the notch be cut 
 nearly through the shoot, a sufficiency of alburnum, or soft wood, 
 is not left for the ascent of the sap, and the shoot dies. A hole, 
 about five inches deep and of the same width, should be made, 
 (at £,) and the shoot placed therein, having first removed the 
 leaves from the portion to be covered by the soil. Secure the 
 shoot in its position, and cover with soil about a third of its length. 
 The bottom eye of the upright shoot (c) should be selected for this 
 purpose. Stake securely, and protect against high winds. When 
 the layers are rooted, which will generally be the case by the fall 
 after the operation is performed, they should be severed (at d*) from 
 the parent plant, and, at the option of the operator, may be re- 
 moved or permitted to remain until the ensuing spring. 
 
 In some plants it is not sufficient to cut a notch merely, because, 
 in that case, the descending sap, instead of throwing out granula- 
 ted matter in the upper side of the wound, would descend by the 
 entire side of the shoot. Besides a notch formed by cutting out a 
 portion of the bark and wood, the notched side should be slit up 
 at least one inch, separating it by a small chip placed in the same 
 to keep it open. 
 
 PLANTING. 
 
 Both spring and fall are selected for this purpose, many persons 
 giving the latter the preference. We advocate the former, deem- 
 ing it preferable for several reasons, among which are the following : 
 
 1. Plants set out in the fall, (remaining dormant through the 
 winter,) do not become set or established in the ground by the 
 making of new roots before the following summer, and, conse- 
 cpuently, are less enabled to withstand the high winds. 
 
 2. If the soil be of a wet or retentive nature in winter, the 
 plants placed therein are sure to be injured to more or less extent, 
 if not killed. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 51 
 
 3. When planted in the fall, the soil does not settle around 
 the roots of plants as in the spring, the same being exposed to the 
 alternating freezing and thawing of the soil, which, to say the 
 least, is very injurious. 
 
 4. When planted out in the spring, before the buds begin to 
 swell, they soon commence throwing out new roots, become early 
 established, and will, in a few weeks at most, amply repay for the 
 protection afforded them during the winter. 
 
 Crowding plants should be avoided, and frequently prove inju- 
 rious. Where the grounds are limited, the best varieties only 
 should be planted. Distribute the plants to suit the taste, care- 
 fully avoiding formality or studied effect. In setting out plants, 
 particularly roses, excavate a hole about eighteen inches or two 
 feet deep, and place a few pieces of soft brick, broken flower-pots, 
 &c, in the bottom, and cover with soil three inches deep, and so 
 on in alternate layers of fragments and soil, till you have the same 
 filled up just sufficient to admit the plant to its original depth. 
 If the plants are in pots, turn them bottom-upward, holding your 
 hands on either side, and gently tap the edge of the pot against a 
 post, or other solid object, which will displace the ball of earth un- 
 broken. Moderately loosen the outer edges of the earth surround- 
 ing the roots, and straighten such as are matted which may pre- 
 sent themselves. Hold the plant in an upright position and insert 
 the same in the hole prepared to receive it, filling in the soil be- 
 tween the roots, draw the same up around it, and press with the 
 foot about the sides to keep it in its position. Prune moderately, 
 water, and secure to a stake by tieing. 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 In order to become proficient in this all-important operation, it 
 is essentially requisite to understand the nature and habit of the 
 plant to be operated upon. This can only be done by practice. 
 The chief difficulty in pruning which the Amateur experiences 
 
52 THE AMATEUES' GUIDE 
 
 arises from the extensiveness of the genus, differing so much in 
 habit and character. The mode of pruning should be determined 
 by the object of the operator, keeping in view the health and habit 
 of the plant. The beauty of the plant, as well as the quality and 
 disposition to flower, depend on judicious pruning. This opera- 
 tion is performed in spring and autumn. We prefer the former, 
 for, when done in March, the shoots are not likely to be injured by 
 frost, as is frequently the case when the operation is performed in 
 autumn ; for should we have a few days of mild weather, the buds 
 become excited and push forth shoots, when, if severe weather 
 follow, they become frosted, and the bloom perishes. The es- 
 sential directions for pruuing roses, will be found under the head 
 of each class, viz : 
 
 Multiflora roses should have the old wood only thinned out, 
 unless locality demand it, when the young shoots may be moder- 
 ately headed in, early in the spring, before the buds begin to 
 swell. 
 
 Moss roses require to have the wood of the preceding year's 
 growth thinned out. The young wood should only be thinned 
 out where they cross each other, and this very moderately. The 
 plants should never be cut down lower than four feet. 
 
 Noisette roses may be pruned from November to March. Thin 
 out the old wood of two or three year's growth, and shorten all the 
 shoots in proportion to their growth. Those which have made a 
 growth of one or two feet, should be cut to within four or six eyes 
 of the preceding year's wood; and shoots which have made a 
 growth of four to ten feet, should be shortened in to three to eight 
 feet; and so in proportion. If pruned in this manner, several va- 
 rieties will bloom the whole season. The flowering stems should 
 be cut off as soon as they begin to decay, unless the seed be 
 required, as the ripening of the seed impoverishes the plant and 
 retards the succession of bloom. 
 
 Tea-scented roses should be pruned only of all decayed or sur- 
 plus wood, merely sufficient to keep the branches from becoming 
 too crowded. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 53 
 
 Bengal roses should have all the dead wood cut out, and the 
 shoots of the preceding year, where irregular and ill shapened, 
 shortened in. 
 
 Lawrencia roses should have the old and superfluous wood 
 thinned out, only sufficient to keep the branches from becoming 
 two crowded. 
 
 Bourbon roses will bear closer pruning than any other variety, 
 but care should be taken not to spoil the appearance of the plant. 
 
 Hybrid Perpetual roses, being of a very robust growth, should 
 be pruned of all surplus wood. Heading-in of the plant will be 
 found advantageous for this family of the rose. 
 
 Perpetual Damask roses require the same treatment as recom- 
 mended for the" Hybrid Perpetuals. 
 
 Micropiiyllia roses should have only the old shoots thinned 
 out. The young shoots should not be pruned unless locality 
 demand it. 
 
 Musk-scented roses require the same mode of treatment as 
 recommended for the Noisettes. 
 
54 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 CLASSIFICATION. 
 
 The classification of Roses is somewhat arbitrary, and far from 
 being clear and distinct. We have selected such only as have 
 proved to be worthy of cultivation, and shall endeavor to give an 
 accurate description of their habit, growth, color, &c. In some 
 instances, however, we maybe mistaken, for it is rather a difficult 
 task to describe accurately the peculiar tints of some roses ; beside 
 which, many varieties of the Rose, owing to soil and cultivation, 
 occasionally "sport," presenting, at the same time, different tints 
 and colors. It has been our aim to give the correct name of each, 
 and its synonymes, in order to protect the Amateur against impo- 
 sition and assist him in his selection. 
 
 The cultivation of the Rose is very simple, the main secret con- 
 sisting in having the soil well drained, pulverized, depth, and 
 richness. By keeping the ground free from weeds, and enriching 
 the soil when requisite, with a judicious selection of plants, all can 
 readily secure their successful cultivation. 
 
 The Amateur generally finds himself confused when making his 
 selection of plants from the extensive catalogues of nurseymen ; for, 
 between the name and color described as appertaining to some 
 particular plant, (named after some celebrated beauty,) his imagi- 
 nation become centered on the charms and loveliness of the origi- 
 nal, and he, in all probability, selects those which are compara- 
 tively worthless. In order to assist him in making a judicious 
 selection, we have enumerated the best varieties now in cultiva- 
 tion. The synonymes are in italic. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 55 
 
 ROSA MULTIFLORA.— The Multiflora Rose. 
 
 This family of the rose blooms but once during the season, (in 
 June,) but for which, many of its varieties would have no com- 
 petitors, either in the beauty or the profusion of their flowers, 
 which are perfectly formed, blooming in clusters, of various colors, 
 varying from a pure white to a deep pink. For covering trel- 
 leses, fences, or other objects, but, for this one defect, this class 
 would have no superior. They are perfectly hardy, and, being 
 very strong and rapid growers, any ordinary garden soil will suit 
 them. The pruning of this class should be done very early in the 
 spring, before the buds swell. The plants should be secured to 
 their support by strips of leather, which are preferable to twine, as 
 the latter, on becoming wet, shrink and generally injure the plant. 
 These may be propagated by either of the methods described. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Blush white,. 
 Every shade, . 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Cupped and double ; about an inch 
 in diameter, and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
 Flowers single, semi-double, and 
 double. A fine grower, and 
 blooms in large clusters. 
 
 Very strong grower, perfect form, 
 blooming in very large clusters, 
 from pure white to a deep pink. 
 Her beauty must be seen to be 
 appreciated. When well estab- 
 lished, will make shoots of 15 
 to 25 feet in one season. 
 
 Perfectly double and cupped ; an 
 inch in diameter, and blooming 
 in clusters. 
 
 Double, strong grower, and free 
 bloomer ; somewhat larger than 
 
 ■ the generality of this class. 
 
 Profuse bloomer, and very attrac- 
 tive. Many of the flowers often 
 striped with white.. 
 
 Grevillia, 
 
 Seven Sisters. 
 
 Multiflora. 
 
 Multiflora Graulhie, 
 
 Pure white, .. 
 
 Russelliana, 
 
 Scarlet Grevillia. 
 Russells' Cottage Rose. 
 
56 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA CENTIFOLTA MUSCOSA.— The Moss Rose. 
 
 Of all the rose family there is no other which will hear a com- 
 parison with this much-admired variety while in hud, for herein 
 consists its beauty. When expanded, it looses this peculiar at- 
 traction. Its origin remains in obscurity, yet all are sufficiently 
 acquainted with its merits to appreciate the exquisite beauty of its 
 mossy coat. They delight in a deep, rich, sandy loam, and, when 
 well established, will make shoots of two to six feet long in one 
 season. Well-rotted manure should be dug in about their roots 
 every fall. The pruning should be performed with caution, for 
 when overdone, they do not bloom in perfection, and frequently 
 die after flowering. The Moss rose may be propagated by either 
 of the methods designated, but will be found rather difficult to 
 raise from cuttings, unless bottom heat be given to the soil in 
 which they are placed. Layering and root-budding are the best 
 and most successful methods. The following embrace only the 
 best varieties. Many catalogues are more full than the supply. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 
 Cherry red, ... 
 Blush, 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Very 
 
 strong and free grower. Perfect 
 
 form. 
 Very double and a strong grower. 
 Double, medium size, erect habit, 
 
 and robust grower. 
 Large, cupped, and double. The 
 
 sepals of the calix surrounded 
 
 by a green silken mossy fringe. 
 
 Beautiful. 
 Large, double, expanded, and bud 
 
 very mossy. Fine foliage, and a 
 
 strong grower. 
 
 
 
 
 Rosy pink, ... 
 Rosy pink, ... 
 
 Moss Crestata. 
 Crested Moss. 
 
 Damask Moss. 
 Tinwell Moss. 
 
 * This curious and beautiful rose is said to be a sport from the Provins 
 Cabbage. The foliage is stronger and of a better color than the original. 
 Frequently, but erroneously, classed as a Moss. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 ROSA CENTIFOLIA MUSCOSA— Continued. 
 
 57 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Crimson Pompon, . 
 Oscar Foulard. 
 
 Comtesse de Noe,. 
 
 Rosy violet, . . 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Purplish red, 
 
 De la Fleche, 
 
 Eclatante, 
 
 Etna, iBril. crimson. 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Gracilis, ,Deep pink,... 
 
 Minor. j 
 
 Prolific. 
 Hclo'ise, 
 
 Perpetual White 
 Moss. 
 
 Quatre Saisons Mousseux 
 New White Cluster Moss. 
 Louise Colet, 
 
 Malvina, 
 
 Mauget, 
 
 Perpetual Red Moss. 
 
 Panachee Pleine, 
 
 Double White Striped Moss . 
 
 Pompon, 
 
 De Meaux. 
 Pompon Feu,. 
 
 Princesse Adelaide, 
 Bourbon Moss. 
 
 Princesse Royale, .. 
 
 Provins Moss, 
 
 Unique de Provins. 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 Pure white,.. 
 
 Small, full, and compact form. 
 Branching habit and moderate 
 grower. Plant very mossy. 
 
 Perfect form, medium size, flower- 
 ing in large clusters, and a vig- 
 orous grower. Changeable. 
 
 Double, cupped, medium size, and 
 quite mossy. 
 
 Large, double, expanded, strong 
 grower, and very showy. 
 
 Large and very double. Beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 Large and full, globular, strong 
 grower, and a free bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, full, compact form, 
 and strong grower. Desirable. 
 
 A profuse bloomer, very pretty in 
 bud, flowering in clusters, and 
 blooming the whole season. 
 
 Delicatejblush Large, double, and cupped. Mod- 
 I erate grower, and shaded with 
 I rosy lilac. 
 
 Rosy pink, ...jLarge, full, and cupped, Flower- 
 i ing in clusters, and a vigorous 
 grower. 
 
 Rosy pink, ... Growth delicate. Medium size, 
 semi-double, and cupped. Will 
 flower two or three times during 
 the season. 
 
 White or flesh Vigorous grower. Medium size, 
 very double, and cupped. Oc- 
 casionally streaked with rose. 
 
 Delicatepink, Dwarf habit, small and cupped, 
 and of delicate growth. 
 
 Bright red, ... Medium size, full, and expanded. 
 A free bloomer. Dwarfish babit. 
 
 Rosy blush, .. Large, full, and compact form. 
 Profuse bloomer, flowering in 
 clusters, and a strong grower. 
 
 Pur. & crim., Large, double, and cupped. A 
 strong grower, and beautifully 
 mottled. 
 
 White, Large, full, and cupped. Moder- 
 ate grower, and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
58 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA CENTIFOLIA MUSCOS A— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Rouge, 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Pale peach,... 
 
 Pure white,.. 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and per- 
 fectly double. A free bloomer. 
 Whole plant mossy. 
 
 Semi-double. Frequently spotted 
 with red. 
 
 Large, full, and cupped. Moder- 
 ate grower. Changing to lilac. 
 
 A vigorous grower, of branching 
 habit. Large, expanded, and 
 double. 
 
 Large, full, and globular. Beau- 
 tiful in bud, but rather delicate 
 growth. Somewhat deficient in 
 the mossy coat. 
 
 Femtgineuse. 
 Rouge de Luxembourg . 
 Luxembourg Moss. 
 Veilland. 
 Sablee, 
 
 Sage-Leaved Moss, 
 
 Splendens, 
 
 White Batb, 
 
 Clifton Moss. 
 
 ROSA MOSCHATA.— The Noisette Rose. 
 
 This family of the rose is quite hardy in this latitude when 
 planted in proper positions. If the most tender varieties be 
 planted on the north side of a fence or building, so as to protect 
 them from the sun in winter, they will need little, or no other 
 protection A soil of deep, rich, sandy loam, with a dry or 
 gravelly bottom, suit them best. When planted in a position 
 where they receive the full glare of the sun in winter, most of this 
 class will need more or less protection. The ground should be 
 enriched every fall by the addition of well-rotted manure. Sev- 
 eral varieties of this class are of dwarfish habit, which will be 
 found designated by an asterisk, (*.) 
 
 To the accidental fertilization of the Chinese with the Musk 
 rose, it is said, is due the origin of this beautiful family of the 
 rose. They are admirably adapted for covering verandahs, build- 
 ings, &c. When not wanted for this purpose, they should be cut 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 59 
 
 down to within three or four feet of the ground every season. 
 When desired for the former, they should be well secured to what- 
 ever they are trained, hy leather straps, tacked to the wood- work, 
 as strings are always injurious to the plant, being liable to shrink 
 from dampness. The varieties which most need protection will be 
 found designated by the single dagger, (f.) The profusion and 
 beauty of their flowers, produced in immense clusters, render this 
 class of the rose well worthy a place in every garden. Both the 
 beauty of the flowers and the profusion of bloom will be greatly 
 promoted by the removal of the decayed flower-stems. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Alba,*. 
 
 Pure white, ... 
 
 Abbe Meillon,* |Rosy red, 
 
 Aimee Vibert,* Pure white, .. 
 
 Nevia. 
 
 Aimee Vibert Scandens, 
 
 Alzande, 
 
 Aurora, 
 
 Belle D'Esquermes, 
 Camellia Rouge. 
 
 Belle Marseillaise, 
 Boulogne, 
 
 Champneyana, 
 
 Champney' s Pink Cluster . 
 Cbarles the Tenth 
 
 Chloris,* 
 
 Clara Wendel,*. 
 
 Cloth of Gold,|. 
 Chromatelle. 
 
 Pure white, ... 
 
 Pale pink,..., 
 
 Straw, 
 
 Bright red,... 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Violet, 
 
 Light pink, ... 
 
 Rosy purple,. 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 Light yellow, 
 
 Light yellow, 
 
 Comtesse de Grillon, jPale pink, 
 
 Small, profuse bloomer, and makes 
 a beautiful dwarf bush. 
 
 Perfect form and profuse bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, compact form, and 
 flowering in large clusters. A 
 moderate grower. 
 
 A climber ; similar to the above in 
 size and form, but producing 
 bloom in less abundance. 
 
 Very double, fragrant, and of me- 
 dium growth. 
 
 Very double, petals fringed, fra- 
 grant, and a strong grower. 
 
 Semi-double, medium size, a fine 
 bloomer, and an excellent pil- 
 lar rose. 
 
 Double, a moderate grower, and 
 very distinct. 
 
 Small, but perfect, and a profuse 
 bloomer. 
 
 Profuse bloomer, quite hardy, and 
 a strong grower. 
 
 Large, semi-double, and a profuse 
 bloomer. 
 
 Double and of medium size. 
 
 Large and double, changing to 
 white. 
 
 Large, double, and fragrant. Re- 
 quires to be well established to 
 bloom freely. Decidedly the best 
 yellow ever-blooming rose. 
 
 Very double, fragrant, and strong 
 grower. Blooming in clusters. 
 
60 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA MOSCHAT A— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Comtesse d' Orloff, 
 
 Comtesse de Tolosan, . 
 
 Comtesse Odoisse, . 
 Conque de Venus, . 
 
 Cora L. Barton, 
 
 Desire Roussell,. 
 
 Donna Maria,* 
 
 Du Luxembourg, t- 
 Eugenia Dubourg, . 
 
 Eugene Pirolle,* 
 
 Admiral de Eigny. 
 Euphrosine,f 
 
 Fellenburg, IPale red, 
 
 Fleur de Jeune Age,f Yell' sh white., 
 
 Lamar que a car rose. 
 
 Jaune Desprez, Rosy buff, ... 
 
 Desprez D'Arcole. 
 
 French Yellow Noisette. 
 Jeannie d'Arc, 'Pure white... 
 
 Julia, 
 
 Julia Dante. 
 Julienne Le Sourde,*. 
 
 La Biche, . 
 
 Lactans, ; 
 
 Rosy pink, ... Small, rapid grower, and a free 
 bloomer. 
 
 White, Very double, large, and cupped. 
 
 A moderate grower, and very 
 pretty. 
 
 Pink, Double, cupped, and of medium 
 
 size. A vigorous grower. 
 Creamy white Perfectly double, fragrant, and a 
 profuse bloomer. Centre bright 
 pink, and flowering in clusters. 
 Rosy pink', ... Very large, double, cupped, and 
 fragrant. A profuse bloomer, 
 of strong habit. 
 
 Flesh, [Medium size, cupped, full, and a 
 
 moderate grower. Changing to 
 white. Very pretty. 
 
 Rose, Small, full, and cupped. Very 
 
 pretty. 
 Rosy purple, . Large, very double, fragrant, and 
 free bloomer. Strong grower. 
 Pale pink, .... Medium size, full, and cupped. 
 
 A moderate grower. 
 Bright rose, .. Perfect form, blooming in large 
 
 clusters. 
 
 Rosy buff, ....Very double, large, and cupped. 
 Very fragrant and a moderate 
 grower. 
 Medium size, double, and cupped. 
 An abundant bloomer and a 
 fine grower. 
 A profuse bloomer, fragrant, and 
 a rapid grower. Blooming in 
 clusters. 
 Perfectly double, profuse bloomer, 
 fragrant, and blooming in clus- 
 ters. 
 Cupped and very double. Flowers 
 rather small. A strong grower. 
 Creamy blush Double, fragrant, and a profuse 
 
 bloomer. 
 Bright pink, . Cupped. A very profuse bloomer 
 
 if planted in rich soil. 
 Pale blush, ... Very large, double, and cupped. 
 A free grower, changing to pure 
 white. 
 Milky white, . Very large, double, and a free 
 bloomer. 
 
r 1 1 
 
 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 61 
 
 ROSA MOSCHATA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 i 
 Color. Description. 
 
 
 Green' hwhite 
 
 Blush pink, ... 
 Pale sulphur, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Very large, cupped, and fully dou- 
 ble. A vigorous grower and 
 fine bloomer. 
 
 Double and very profuse bloomer. 
 Flowering till late in autumn. 
 
 Profuse bloomer, double, and a 
 moderate grower. 
 
 Large, double, cupped, and fra- 
 grant. Moderate grower, and 
 changing to a yellowish white. 
 Quite showy. 
 
 A strong grower, and producing 
 bloom in large thin clusters. 
 
 Small, double, and cupped. 
 
 A free grower and very fragrant. 
 Very perfect, except in damp 
 weather. 
 
 Very double and a free grower. 
 Pinkish centre. 
 
 Very fragrant, cupped, a strong 
 grower. Buff centre. 
 
 Perfect form, free bloomer, and a 
 rapid grower. 
 
 Small, full, and cupped. Centre 
 occasionally flesh color. 
 
 Cupped, and very pretty. 
 
 Small, full, and cupped. Opening 
 flesh color and dying off white. 
 Moderate grower, distinct, and 
 fragrant. 
 
 Free bloomer and fragrant. Very 
 similar to La Pactole. 
 
 Very fragrant, cupped, and bloom- 
 ing in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Fragrant, free bloom- 
 er, and a strong grower. The 
 outer petals tinged with red. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. 
 
 Small, beautifully formed, and a 
 
 ' free bloomer. 
 
 • 
 M 
 
 Carmine Cluster. 
 
 La Pactole, *f 
 
 PactoJus. 
 
 The Pactole. 
 
 New Yellow Tea. 
 
 The Chrysanthimcflora. 
 
 Montrosa. 
 Codestis. 
 
 Grandiflora. 
 
 Carassana. 
 
 Triomjjhe des Noisettes. 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Lemon yellow 
 
 Yellow, white 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Rosy red, 
 
 White, 
 
 Bright yellow 
 Nankeen, 
 
 Pale lemon,.. 
 Creamy white 
 Redish copper 
 
 Blush, 
 
 
 Smithii. 
 Madame Byrne, 
 
 Madame Jouvain, 
 
 
 Miss GleofEr * 
 
 Nankin, 
 
 Mutabilis. 
 Narcisse,*f 
 
 Ne Plus Ultra, *f 
 
 
 Odeur d' Anisette,* 
 
 
 Pink, 
 
62 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA MOSCHATA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 
 A vigorous grower. 
 Small, cupped, and very double. 
 
 Centre rose and fawn color. 
 
 Dying off white. 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 
 free grower, and fragrant. 
 Very large, cupped, double, and 
 
 fragrant. Very strong grower. 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Fragrant, blooming in large clus- 
 ters. A very strong grower and 
 
 free bloomer. 
 Large, fragrant, and blooming in 
 
 clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A vigorous grower, with varia- 
 ble centre. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Shaded with blackish 
 purple. 
 
 
 Creamy buff, . 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 Sulphur yel... 
 
 Pale blush,... 
 
 White, 
 
 Bril. crimson, 
 
 Le Similor. 
 Sir Walter Scott, 
 
 
 Triomphe de la Duchere, ... 
 
 Pictorium. 
 La Vktorieuse. 
 Vitelllina,t 
 
 
 
 ROSA INDICA ODORATA.— The Tea-scented Rose. 
 
 This family of the rose is more tender than either of the other 
 classes; some few varieties, however, will stand our winters with- 
 out protection. G-enerally, they should be protected by having 
 straw or the branches of evergreens placed around them. They 
 delight in a light, rich soil, with a dry bottom, and in an elevated 
 position. The precautions mentioned under the head of "Plant- 
 ing," in regard to pieces of broken flower-pots, &c., are particu- 
 larly applicable to this family of the rose. The Tea-rose em- 
 braces nearly every shade of color ; all of which may be propaga- 
 ted by either of the methods designated. Every garden should 
 have a collection of this lovely family. Their fragrance are unsur- 
 
1 
 
 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 63 
 
 passed, all of the class emitting a delightful odor. Those desig- 
 nated with an asterisk (*) particularly require protection. The 
 removal of them from the ground for protection during winter, 
 and again planting them out in the spring, should never be re- 
 sisted to, for it retards their growth and perfect flowering, and is 
 every way injurious. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. Description. 
 
 Fanny Dupuis. 
 
 
 
 Apricot, Large, cupped, and double. Vig- 
 
 1 orous grower, and a beautiful 
 
 ] rose. Margin flesh color. 
 Deep blush,.. jVery large, globular, and per- 
 
 I feet. A strong grower, and 
 fragrant. 
 Pink' h white, Very double, cupped, and a very 
 
 1 strong grower. Blooms well ; 
 
 | centre shading to yellow. 
 Pure white,.. ..[Large, cupped, and double. Re- 
 
 ' quires to be thinned out to make 
 
 ! it grow strong. 
 
 1 ing and flowering freely. Bot- 
 1 torn of petals yellow. 
 Creamy blush Large, fragrant, and strong grow- 
 i er. Occasionally deep pink. 
 
 Anteros. 
 Isabel. 
 
 Arkinto. 
 Belle Archinto. 
 
 Belle AllemaDde, .. 
 
 1 
 
 Belle Marguerite,.. 
 
 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 Bright rose, . . 
 
 White, 
 
 A free bloomer and very fra- 
 grant. Often tinged with fawn 
 color. Variable. 
 
 Perfectly double, of strong habit, 
 and a profuse bloomer. Ex- 
 panded, robust grower, and fre- 
 quently of a dark crimson color. 
 
 Double, fragrant, and large petals. 
 Changing to cherry red. 
 
 Very large, perfectly double, and 
 globular. A strong grower, 
 and fragrant. 
 
 Very large, expanded, and double. 
 A free bloomer, delicately tinged 
 with pink. 
 
 Medium size, globular, vigorous 
 grower, and a free bloomer 
 
 Large and cupped. Growing and 
 flowering freely, in clusters. 
 
 Large and double. Blooms freely, 
 but of loose form. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Bride of Abydos, .. 
 
 
 
 Rosy pink, .... 
 Pink, 
 
 L 
 
64 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA INDIOA ODORATA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Clara Sylvain, 
 
 Lady Warender. 
 
 Comte de Paris, . 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Comte de Osmond, . 
 Devoniensis, * 
 
 Delphine Gaudot,. 
 Dremont, 
 
 Duchesse de Mecklenburg, 
 
 Eliza Sauvage,* 
 
 Eugenie Desgaches, 
 
 Flavescens, *. 
 Yellow Tea. 
 
 Floralie, 
 
 Fragoletta, 
 
 Roi des Beiges. 
 
 Napoleon. 
 Gigantesque, 
 
 Pure white,.. Large, perfect form, strong grow- 
 er, and free bloomer. One of the 
 best of the white Teas. 
 
 Creamy blush Very large, full, cupped, and dou- 
 ble. Strong habit, and large 
 buds. 
 
 Flesh, Very large, full, and cupped. A 
 
 fine rose. Shaded. 
 
 Creamy white.Very large, double, and free grow- 
 I er. Decidedly the most fragrant 
 of the Teas. Very desirable. 
 
 Pure white, ... 
 Pale flesh, 
 
 Creamy yel., 
 Creamy yel., 
 Rose, 
 
 Pale straw,... 
 
 Rosy blush,. 
 Pale rose, 
 
 Double, cupped, and fragrant. A 
 profuse bloomer, and flowering 
 in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Centre inclining to 
 fawn color. 
 
 Large, cupped, double, and perfect 
 form. 
 
 Very large, globular, and double. 
 Beautiful, but rather tender, 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A rig- 
 orous grower. 
 
 Large and double. Beautiful when 
 half open, but loose when fully 
 expanded. 
 
 Perfect form, and blooming pro- 
 fusely, in clusters. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Per- 
 fect form and fragrant. 
 
 Pale flesh,.... Very large and showy, but defi- 
 cient in form. 
 
 Gobault, Rosy blush,. .Very large, expanded, and double. 
 
 I Free grower, fragrant, and cen- 
 tre inclining to yellow. 
 
 HamoB* Blush, Large, cupped, and very double. 
 
 J Fragrant, and a profuse bloom- 
 ; er. Changing to a deep rose 
 I color. 
 
 Hardy, Pale pink,.. ..(Medium size, cupped, and very 
 
 GHoriede Hardy. double. A free bloomer, and 
 
 very fragrant. 
 
 Hymenee, Creamy white|Perfectly double, profuse bloomer, 
 
 ! and free grower. 
 
 Hyppolyte, Creamy yel., [Large and double. A free grower 
 
 I and profuse bloomer. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 ROSA INDICA ODOR AT A— Continued. 
 
 65 
 
 Name. 
 
 Jaune Panache, 
 
 Aurora. 
 
 Josephine Walton,*. 
 
 Light straw,. 
 Creamy white 
 
 Jules Desmont, . 
 Julie Mansais * 
 
 Rose,... 
 White,. 
 
 Lady Granville, [Blush, 
 
 La Renommee, 
 
 La Sylphide, 
 
 Lyonnais, 
 
 Madame de St. Joseph, 
 Madame Desprez,* 
 
 Madame Guerin, . 
 
 Madame Russell,.. 
 Eugenie Jovain. 
 
 Melville, . 
 Mirabile, 
 
 Moire,*... 
 Mondor, .. 
 Niphetos, 
 Nisida, ... 
 
 Odorata, 
 
 Common Tea. 
 
 Color. 
 
 White, 
 
 Creamy white 
 Pale pink,.... 
 Pale pink,.... 
 Pure white, ... 
 
 White, 
 
 White. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Rosy blush,.. 
 Sulphur yel., 
 
 Fawn, 
 
 Rosy blush,.. 
 Pure white, ... 
 Rose & fawn, 
 
 Rosy blush,.. 
 
 Large, expanded, and very double. 
 A vigorous grower, changing to 
 blush color. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Centre occasionally inclining to 
 buff color. 
 
 Medium size, full, and globular. 
 Changing to white. 
 
 Large, cupped, and perfectly dou- 
 ble. Very sweet, and changing 
 at times to light yellow. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Vigorous grower and 
 free bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. Exqui- 
 site form. O en tre pale lemon. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 Strong grower and free bloomer. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 Strong grower and free bloomer. 
 
 Very large, expanded, and double. 
 A vigorous grower. 
 
 Large, perfectly double, and quite 
 fragrant. Beautiful, but very 
 delicate. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Tinged with lemon. 
 
 Large, full, and compact. Profuse 
 bloomer and a free grower. Of- 
 ten shaded with rosy lilac. 
 
 Perfectly double, strong grower, 
 and quite, hardy. 
 
 Medium size, full, and cupped. 
 Growing and blooming freely. 
 Edged and shaded with rose. 
 
 Large, full, and globular. Beau- 
 tifully shaded. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Changeable. 
 
 Very large, full, and globular. 
 Strong grower and quite hardy. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Fine habit and very 
 fragrant. 
 
 Large, double, and very fragrant. 
 Beautiful in bud, but loose when 
 expanded. 
 
66 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA INDICA ODORATA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Creamy white 
 
 Creamy white 
 Pale yellow, .. 
 
 Creamy yel., 
 Buff, 
 
 Large and full, with a buff centre. 
 
 A free grower. 
 Medium size, globular, and full. 
 Large, globular, and very double. 
 
 A free grower and very fragrant. 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 
 Quite fragrant, and edged with 
 
 buff. 
 Very large, globular, and very 
 
 double. Centre rose color, and 
 
 deliriously fragrant. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Very 
 
 fragrant. 
 Very large, cupped, and full. 
 
 Robust grower, and yellowish 
 
 centre. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Strong 
 
 habit and quite hardy. 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 
 Buff centre, and very fragrant. 
 Medium size, double, and early 
 
 bloomer. Petals edged with 
 
 bright red. 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 
 Desirable. 
 Very large, cupped, and full. Ro- 
 bust grower, a,nd very sweet. 
 
 Variable, changing to crimson. 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 
 Profuse bloomer. Centre chang- 
 ing to yellow. 
 Large, cupped, and full. A fine 
 
 grower, and quite hardy. Cen- 
 tre tinged with lemon. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Centre 
 
 inclining to blush. 
 Very large, globular, and full. A 
 
 strong grower, free bloomer, 
 
 and quite fragrant. 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 
 double. Centre deep pink. 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 
 Beautiful. Often tinged with 
 
 copper color. 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 
 A strong grower. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Straw, 
 
 Princesse Helene Modeste, . . 
 
 White, 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 Rose, 
 
 
 
 Creamy blush 
 
 Happy Dream. 
 
 
 Creamy white 
 Creamy white 
 White, 
 
 
 Triomphe du Luxembourg* 
 
 Rosy buff,... 
 
 Pale pink,.... 
 Orange yel., 
 
 Deep blush,.. 
 
 Victoria Modeste, 
 
 
 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 67 
 
 ROSA INDICA. — Bengal Chinese, or Daily Rose. 
 
 The varieties of this class and Rosa Semperflorens we shall in- 
 
 clude in the same group, for the habits and colors so nearly re- 
 
 semble each other, it is next to impossible to say to which species 
 
 they belong. They are of a hardy nature, and generally will stand 
 
 our winters without protection They should have a rich sandy 
 
 soil, of eighteen inches depth. The Bengals may be propagated by 
 
 cuttings from June to September, inclusive. If done in June, they 
 
 will make handsome plants by the fall. For ordinary garden pur- 
 
 poses, layering is preferable, and by far the safest method. This 
 
 may be done in July or August. — (See Layering.) Well-rotted 
 
 manure should be dug in about their roots in the fall. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Redish purple 
 
 Large, very double, and globular. 
 Often shaded with white. 
 
 
 
 Br't rosy red, 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. 
 Double and very profuse bloomer. 
 Very large, expanded, full, and a 
 profuse bloomer. Changing to 
 
 
 Pale rosy p'k, 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Archduke Charles, 
 
 
 
 
 crimson. 
 
 \ucustine Hersent, 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 Moderate grower. 
 
 Madame Hersent. 
 
 
 Bardon 
 
 White, 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 A free 'bloomer. Centre flesh 
 
 
 
 
 
 color. 
 
 Baronne Delaage, 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Medium size, globular, and full. 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A free grower and 
 
 
 Dark crimson 
 
 
 purple. 
 
 
 
 profuse bloomer. 
 
 Belle de Monza, 
 
 Light rose,... 
 
 Perfectly double and a strong 
 grower. Changing to a dark 
 
 
 
 
 crimson color. 
 
 
 Pale crimson, 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and semi- 
 double. Profuse bloomer, and 
 
 
 
 
 
 flowering in clusters. 
 
 Belle Emilie, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Large, expanded, and double, with 
 flesh-colored centre. 
 
 Theresia Stravius. 
 
 
 
 Blush 
 
 Verv laro-p rairmeH ami Hmihlp 
 
 Quite showy. Centre flesh color. 
 
 
68 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA INDICA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Belle Isadore, . 
 
 Boisnard, 
 
 Camellia Blanc, . 
 Camelliaflora, ... 
 Cameleon, 
 
 Pale sulphur, 
 
 White, 
 
 Rosy red, 
 
 Light pink, .., 
 Br t. carmine. 
 
 Pink blush,. 
 
 I 
 Comble de Gloire, Rich crimson. 
 
 The Buret. 
 
 Gtos Charles. 
 Cramoisie Superieur, IVelvety crim. 
 
 Aggrippina. 
 
 Carmin d'Yebles, . 
 Carmin Superbe. 
 
 Cels Multiflora,. 
 
 Don Carlos, 
 
 Jeannie Deans. 
 Duchess de Kent,. 
 
 Etna, 
 
 L'JEtna. 
 
 Eugene Beauharnais, . 
 
 Prince Eugene. 
 Eugene Hardy, 
 
 Fanny Duval,. 
 
 Fabvier, 
 
 Noisette Aggrippina. 
 General Soyez, 
 
 Henry the Fifth, 
 Hortensia, 
 
 Indica, , 
 
 Pink Daily. 
 
 Crim. & blush Large and cupped. A free grower 
 and profuse bloomer. Various- 
 ly shaded. 
 
 Large and cupped. Changing to 
 nearly white. 
 
 Large, globular, and very double. 
 A free bloomer. 
 
 Large and very perfect. Chang- 
 ing to dark red. 
 
 Double, strong grower, and grad- 
 ually changing to crimson. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A very pretty and free-blooming 
 rose. 
 
 Perfectly double, cupped, and a 
 profuse bloomer. Does not open 
 well early in the season. 
 
 Large, expanded, and double. A 
 free grower, fragrant, and good 
 bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A moderate grower, beautiful, 
 and should be in every collec- 
 tion. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Cen- 
 tre salmon color. 
 
 Small, cupped, and full. Dwarf- 
 ish habit. 
 
 Large, expanded, and very beau- 
 tiful. Petals often tinged with 
 scarlet. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Buds beautiful when unfolding. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and perfect- 
 ly double. Centre flesh color. 
 
 Large and cupped, with flesh-col- 
 ored centre. 
 
 Medium size, semi-double, and 
 very showy. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Beau- 
 tiful in autumn. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Often striped with white. 
 
 Perfect form, strong grower, and 
 a profuse bloomer. 
 
 Semi-double, strong grower, and 
 a profuse bloomer. 
 
 White, 
 
 Pale pink,..,. 
 Rose to crim. 
 
 Rich crimson. 
 
 White,. 
 White,. 
 Scarlet, 
 
 Cherry crim., 
 Crim. scarlet, 
 Blush pink, ... 
 Dark blush,.. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 69 
 
 ROSA INDICA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 White, 
 
 Semi-double, free grower, and a 
 profuse bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 A free bloomer. 
 
 Medium size aud cupped, with 
 rosy purple centre. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and dou- 
 ble. Changing to dark crimson. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and dou- 
 ble. Centre pale blush. A free 
 grower. 
 
 Very large, double, and compact. 
 Fine habit. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Centre inclining to straw color. 
 One of the best white autumn 
 bloomers. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Variable. Often car- 
 mine and crimson. 
 
 Large, globular, perfectly formed, 
 and a profuse bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Profuse bloomer, free grower, 
 and flowering in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. 
 Often suffused with light purple. 
 
 Large, globular, and double. A 
 profuse bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and perfect form. 
 Changeable. 
 
 Perfectly double, cupped, and a 
 brofuse bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, double, fragrant, 
 and a strong grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 
 White Daily. 
 Icterose, 
 
 Creamy white 
 Dark crimson 
 Bright rose, .. 
 Dark crimson 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 White, 
 
 Joseph Deschiens, 
 
 Leonidas, 
 
 Louis Philippe, 
 
 King of France. 
 Madame Breon, 
 
 Madame Burea, 
 
 Madame de Rohan. 
 In fide lite de Lisette. 
 
 Madame de Crequi, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Marjolin, 
 
 Dark crimson 
 Pure white, ... 
 
 Light crimson 
 Br. rosy red, 
 Rosy violet,.. 
 Rich crimson, 
 Br't crimson, 
 Blush, 
 
 Meillez, 
 
 The a Fleurs Jaune. 
 Prince Charles, 
 
 Reine de Lombardie, 
 
 Rubens, 
 
 Ruban Pourpre. 
 Semperflorens, 
 
 Sanffuinea. 
 
 
 
 
. 
 
 70 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA LAWRENCIANA.— The Miniature Rose. 
 
 This family, as its name implies, consists of plants of dwarfish 
 habit. The low growth of these plants and the small size of their 
 flowers present a striking contrast in comparison to the other va- 
 rieties. They should be grown by themselves, for, when planted 
 among the strong and rapid growers, their beauty will be compar- 
 atively lost sight of. These beautiful little plants vary in color 
 from white to dark crimson ; and, when planted in good rich soil, 
 frequently combine the loveliness and beauty of some of the larger 
 varieties in miniature. These should be propagated from cut- 
 tings, their diminitive size rendering them troublesome by the 
 other methods. The treatment recommended for Tea roses is ap- 
 plicable to this class. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Alba, 
 
 Pure white,.. 
 Pink 
 
 Perfect in form. Beautiful. 
 Double and quite distinct. 
 Flowers about the size of a dime. 
 
 Plant about ten inches high. 
 Flowers the size of a half-dime. 
 
 Plant, when full grown, about 
 
 six inches high. 
 Double and perfect. Growth about 
 
 one foot high. 
 The largest and most robust of the 
 
 family. 
 
 
 Gloire, 
 
 Bright pink,. 
 Light rose,... 
 
 
 
 Indica Minor. 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 ROSA BOUE 
 
 This class of roses ar 
 decidedly the favorite 
 They are generally of 
 
 BOXIANA.- 
 
 e perfectly 1] 
 with a lar. 
 a strong an 
 
 -The Bourbon Rose. 
 
 ardy in this latitude, and are 
 re majority of rose fanciers. 
 .1 vigorous growth, producing 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 71 
 
 a constant succession of bloom the -whole season. They delight 
 in a strong rich soil, and will bear moderately close pruning. 
 The decayed flower-stems should be removed, unless the seed be 
 desired. The Bourbons form handsome standard plants, and may 
 be propagated by either of the methods described. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Pale white,... 
 Rosy pink, .... 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Rosy carmine 
 Pale blush,... 
 
 Silvery rose,. 
 Deep pink,.... 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Rosy purple, . 
 
 Bright red,... 
 
 Pur. violet, ... 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 Rosy pink, .... 
 Br't carmine, 
 
 Delicate rose, 
 
 Large, full, and globular. Vig- 
 orous grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Mod- 
 erate grower. w 
 
 Large, cupped, and perfect form. 
 Strong grower and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Moderate grower. 
 
 Medium size, full, and compact. 
 A very pretty rose, and a moder- 
 ate grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A vig- 
 orous grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A profuse bloomer and free 
 grower. Exquisite form, and 
 beautiful. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Moderate grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Very 
 showy, an abundant bloomer, 
 and dwarfish habit. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A strong grower, fine 
 habit, fragrant, and very pretty. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. Mod- 
 erate grower, and occasionally 
 crimson scarlet. 
 
 Large, full, and cupped. A mod- 
 erate grower. 
 
 Large, compact, and very double. 
 A vigorous grower. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 Profuse bloomer, fragrant, and 
 and a strong grower. 
 
 Medium size, compact, and very 
 double. Profuse bloomer and 
 a vigorous grower. . 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 Vigorous grower. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Madame Beluze. 
 
 
 Hermosa. 
 
 UgUSme "^ 
 
 
 Therese Mar gat, 
 Madame Mar gat. 
 
 
 Boquet de Flore, 
 
 Cardinal Fesch, 
 
 
 1 — — 
 
72 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Ceres, 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Cezarine Souchet,. 
 
 Charlemagne, 
 
 Charles Martel, 
 
 Charles Souehet, 
 
 Chatenay, 
 
 Cornice de Seine et Marne, 
 
 Comte de Rambuteau, .. 
 
 Rosy lilac, . 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Purple, 
 
 Dark rosy vi- 
 olet. 
 Lilac flesh,... 
 
 Br't crimson, 
 
 Crimson Globe,... 
 Docteur Hoques. 
 
 Delille, 
 
 Desgaches, 
 Gantin. 
 
 Docteur Blandin, 
 
 Docteur Hardouin, 
 
 Due de Chartres, . 
 
 Duchesse de Normandie, 
 Duchesse de Thuringe, ... 
 
 Dark rose,..., 
 
 Pur. crimson, 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 Delicate pink, 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 Delic'e peach, 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Purplish rose, 
 White, 
 
 Dumont du Courset, . 
 
 Dupetit Tbouars, . 
 
 Very large, compact, and very 
 double. Moderate grower, but 
 does not open well early in the 
 season. 
 Large, compact, and very double. 
 Moderate grower. Tinged with 
 rose. 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Moderate grower. Changing to 
 pink. 
 Medium size and full. Shaded 
 
 with crimson. 
 Medium size, cupped, and com- 
 pact. Dwarf grower. 
 Large, full, cupped, and fragrant. 
 
 A vigorous grower. 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A moderate grower, 
 and blooming in clusters. 
 Large-, full, and compact. Dwarf- 
 ish habit, and tinted with lilac 
 color. 
 Medium size, full, and globular. 
 Robust habit and a moderate 
 grower. 
 Large, compact, and very double. 
 
 Moderate grower. 
 Medium size, full, and cupped. A 
 strong grower, and blooming 
 in clusters. 
 Small, globular, and very double. 
 
 Blooming in clusters. 
 Medium size, full, and cupped. A 
 moderate grower. Distinct and 
 beautiful. 
 Very large, expanded, and full. 
 A free bloomer and robust 
 grower. 
 Medium size, full, and globular. 
 Medium size and very double. 
 Delicately tinted with lilac. 
 Dark velvetyjMedium size, full, and compact. 
 A free bloomer, of dwarfish 
 habit. Changeable. 
 Large, full, and compact. A vig- 
 orous grower, and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
 Dark crimson 
 

 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 73 
 
 ROSA BOURBONIAN A— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Very large, full, and cupped. A 
 vigorous grower, and shaded 
 with pale pink. 
 
 Large, full, and compact. Mod- 
 erate grower and a free bloom- 
 er, but does not open well early 
 in the season. 
 
 Small, cupped, and very double. 
 A moderate grower, and very 
 pfetty. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Dwarf grower. 
 
 Medium size, double, and strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, expanded, and very dou- 
 ble. Strong grower, fragrant, 
 and blooming in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Small grower. Some- 
 times bright rose. 
 
 Perfect form, strong grower, and 
 a profuse bloomer. 
 
 Large, full, and compact. A free 
 bloomer and moderate grower. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. A profuse bloomer and 
 moderate grower. 
 
 Perfect form and a strong grower. 
 
 Large, double, and strong grower. 
 Blooming in clusters. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. 
 
 Large and compact. A strong 
 grower, flowering in large clus- 
 ters. Beautiful and fragrant. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 free bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Moderate grower and 
 very fragrant. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and very 
 double. Robust grower, and 
 blooming in clusters. 
 
 Small, cupped, and very double. 
 Moderate grower, fragrant, and 
 blooming in clusters. 
 
 
 
 
 Rosy blush,.. 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 Delic'e blush, 
 Br't crimson, 
 
 Pale rose, , 
 
 Violet purple, 
 Rosy crimson 
 Deep crimson 
 
 Pale blush,... 
 Deep rose,.... 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 Deep pink,.... 
 
 Pink blush,.. 
 
 Flesh 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Henry Clay, (Ball's,) ,,,. 
 
 
 Splendent. 
 
 Crimson Madame Desprez. 
 
 Ida Percot, 
 
 Irapera trice Josephine, 
 
 White Bourbon. 
 
 

 74 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Deep red, 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 Bright red,... 
 Bright pink,. 
 
 Flesh, 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Fragrant, a moderate 
 grower, and a profuse bloomer. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Moderate grower and 
 free bloomer. Beautiful. 
 
 Large, full, and globular. Strong 
 grower 
 
 Large and compact. Dwarfish 
 habit. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 A strong grower and quite 
 pretty. 
 
 Large, expanded, and double. A 
 vigorous grower, flowering in 
 clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A moderate grower. 
 Centre pink color. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 strong grower. Edged with 
 crimson. 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and dou- 
 ble. Vigorous grower. Some- 
 times crimson scarlet. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 strong grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Dwarf grower. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower, with a pur- 
 plish tint. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A moderate grower. 
 Centre fawn color. Beautiful. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. A vig- 
 orous grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Very pretty. ( 
 
 Large, cupped, and full Strong 
 grower, and flowering in large 
 clusters. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. Strong 
 grower, blooming in clusters. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 strong grower, and blooming 
 in clusters. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Le Flor'fere, 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 Rosy purple, . 
 Rose, 
 
 
 
 
 Bright red,... 
 Light cherry, 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Lilac rose,.... 
 White, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 
 
 75 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Madame Nerard,. 
 Madame Pepin,.. 
 
 Madame Souchet, 
 
 Madame Tripet, 
 
 Mademoiselle Rachel, . 
 
 Malvina, 
 
 Manteau de Jeanne d'Arc. 
 
 Marechal de Villars, . 
 Margat Jeune, 
 
 Marianne, 
 
 Marquise d'lviy, .. 
 
 Miss Fanny, 
 
 Mrs. Bosanquet,.... 
 
 Nerine, 
 
 Ninon de l'Enclos, 
 
 Oscar Leclerc, 
 
 Paul Joseph, 
 
 Waxy blush; 
 Pink, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Dark rose, 
 Blush, 
 
 Rosy pink, .... 
 Flesh 
 
 Pur. crimson, 
 Rich crimson, 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Flesh, 
 
 Creamy white 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Rosy purple, . 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Pur. crimson, 
 
 Large, cupped, double, and fra- 
 grant. Very perfect, and a fine 
 bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 moderate grower. Changing to 
 blush . 
 
 Large, compact, and double. A 
 moderate grower. Very pretty. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 moderate grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A moderate grower. Tinged 
 with pink. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 A moderate grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Dwarfish grower, and 
 beautiful. 
 
 Very compact, good grower, and 
 a profuse bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and a moderate 
 grower. Edges of centre petals 
 whitish. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Robust grower, and blooming 
 in clusters. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 vigorous grower, flowering in 
 clusters, and changing to lilac. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
 vigorous grower, blooming in 
 clusters. Margin nearly white. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Vig- 
 orous grower, profuse bloomer, 
 and very desirable. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Very pretty. Dwarfish 
 habit. 
 
 Medium size, variable, and free 
 grower. Requires to be well 
 established to show its beauty. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A ro- 
 bust grower. Shaded with dark 
 violet. 
 
 Large, compact, and full. Mod- 
 erate grower, and often shaded 
 with fiery crimson. Very fine. 
 
76 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA BOURBONIANA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Pierre de St. Gyre, 
 
 Pourpre Fafait, .• 
 
 Pourpre de Tyre, 
 
 Premices des Charpennes, . 
 
 Princesse Clementine, 
 
 Princesse de Modena, 
 
 Prince Albert, (Paul's,). 
 Proserpine, 
 
 Queen of the Bourbons, 
 
 Reine des lies de Bourbon 
 
 Raymond, 
 
 Reine du Congres, . 
 
 Reine des Vierges, . 
 
 Scipio, 
 
 Souchet, 
 
 Souvenir de Desire, 
 
 Souvenir de Dumont d'Ur- 
 ville. 
 
 Souvenir de la Malmaison, 
 
 Color. 
 
 Pale rose,.... 
 Crim. purple 
 Dark crimson 
 Lilac rose, . . 
 
 Purple, 
 
 Flesh, 
 
 Scar, crimson 
 Crimson .. 
 
 Fawn, 
 
 Br't crimson, 
 Flesh, 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Pur. crimson. 
 Pur. carmine. 
 
 Violet carm'e 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Delicate blush 
 
 Description. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 vigorous grower, and blooming 
 in clusters. Superb. 
 
 Medium size, compact, and full. 
 A vigorous grower, blooming 
 in clusters. 
 
 Large, full, and cupped. Robust 
 grower. Shaded with purple. 
 Variable. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and dou- 
 ble. A vigorous grower, and 
 flowering in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower. Centre often 
 vivid crimson. 
 
 Medium size, finely cupped, and 
 double. A dwarf grower, and 
 tinted with pink. Very dis- 
 tinct. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Beautiful. 
 
 Medium size, full, and compact. 
 Dwarf grower and a free bloom- 
 er. Variable. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Free 
 bloomer and fragrant. Dwarf- 
 ish habit. 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and full. 
 Vigorous grower. 
 
 Medium size, full, and compact. 
 A moderate grower. Shaded 
 with pink. 
 
 Large and full, with flesh-colored 
 centre. A vigorous grower? 
 
 Large, double, free bloomer, and 
 shaded with scarlet. Showy. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and compact. 
 Moderate grower and fragrant. 
 Superb. 
 
 Medium size and full. A vigor- 
 ous grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. Dwarfgrower. Often 
 tinged with purple. 
 
 Very large, full, and compact. 
 A vigorous grower, with thick 
 petals. Very fine. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 ROSA BOURBONI AN A— Continued. 
 
 77 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Sully, 
 
 Sydonie Dorisy, 
 
 Theresita, 
 
 Triomphe de Plantier 
 
 Viscomte de Cussy, ... 
 
 Virgil, 
 
 Zulema, 
 
 Dark crimson 
 Peach,. 
 
 Lilac pink,... 
 Br't crimson, 
 
 Cherry, 
 
 Rose, 
 
 Flesh, 
 
 Medium size and very double. A 
 
 moderate grower. 
 Medium size, full, and compact. 
 
 A moderate grower. Slightly 
 
 tinged with lilac. 
 Medium size, full, and globular. 
 
 A free bloomer. 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 
 A strong grower, and blooming 
 
 in clusters. 
 Large, compact, and double. A 
 
 moderate grower. Tinged with 
 
 purple. 
 Large, cupped, and full. A vig- 
 orous grower. 
 Globular. When well grown, 
 
 blooming in immense clusters. 
 
 REMONT ANTES. —The Hybrid Perpetual Rose. 
 
 This magnificient class of roses are very strong growers, gen- 
 erally producing very large flowers, perfect in form, combining 
 nearly every color, and possessing a delightful fragrance. They 
 are not, however, true to their name, as they generally bloom but 
 two or three times during the season, when strong new shoots 
 spring up. Their chief merit is the true old-fashioned character 
 of the flowers — large and fragrant as the Damask rose. Some few 
 are very free bloomers, and all are perfectly hardy. By cutting 
 off the larger proportion of their first buds, and a few of their 
 shoots back, they will flower in full perfection. Encouragement 
 should be given to their growth by the addition of compost in the 
 fall, well dug in. If their roots be watered in dry seasons, as de- 
 tailed under the head of "Watering," once or twice a week, it 
 will greatly promote both the growth and blooming of the plant. 
 
78 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 They require a strong and deep rich soil, and should be deprived 
 of all superfluous wood. These may be readily propagated by 
 either of the methods enumerated. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Blush, 
 
 Medium size, full, and globular. 
 A moderate grower, of branch- 
 ing habit. Centre rose color. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower, of erect habit. 
 
 Large, full, and compact. Strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, expanded, and double. A 
 moderate grower, of erect habit. 
 
 Very large, globular, and double. 
 A strong grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, free bloomer, and 
 fragrant. 
 
 Large, full, and globular. A fine 
 rose, and strong grower. 
 
 Large, full, and cupped. A very 
 strong grower, and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. A moderate grower, and 
 quite showy. 
 
 Very large, full, and compact. A 
 very strong grower. 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and dou- 
 ble. Dwarf grower, of branch- 
 ing babit. Centre white. 
 
 Medium size, full, and compact. 
 A moderate grower, and an 
 abundant bloomer. 
 
 Very large, expanded, and full. 
 A strong grower, very fragrant, 
 and shaded with lilac blush. 
 
 Medium size and semi-double. 
 Centre nearly white. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A dwarf grower, and 
 very pretty. 
 
 Very large, globular, and very 
 double. A moderate grower, 
 and very fragrant. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 A moderate grower, of branch- 
 ing habit. 
 
 Admiral d'Esting, 
 
 Lilac red, 
 Bright red.... 
 Flesh, 
 
 Alexandrine Bachmeteff, ... 
 Alphonse Karr, 
 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Light pink,... 
 Bright violet, 
 
 Rosy pink, ... 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Bright cherry 
 
 Bright pink,. 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Delicate rose, 
 
 Aubernon, 
 
 Auguste Mee, 
 
 Baronne de Heeckeren, 
 Baronne Prevost, 
 
 Calliope, 
 
 Clementine Duval, 
 
 Clementine Seringe, 
 
 Pauline Plantier. 
 Mrs. Wood. 
 Coeline Perpetuelle, 
 
 Commandant Fournier, 
 Comted'Egmont, 
 
 
 Lig't carmine 
 
 — — 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 79 
 
 REMONTANTES— Continued. 
 
 - 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Violet red,.... 
 Rosy purple, . 
 
 Very large, globular, and double. 
 A moderate grower. Shaded, 
 and beautiful. 
 
 Very large, double, and very fra- 
 grant. A moderate grower, and 
 flowering finely late in autumn. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 A moderate grower. Occasion- 
 ally tinged with purple. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. A strong grower. Often 
 blooming in clusters. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 A vigorous grower, and very 
 showy. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 double. A dwarf grower, and 
 beautiful. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower, and very fra- 
 grant. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and full. 
 A moderate grower. Beautiful 
 in autumn. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 A moderate grower. A sweet 
 and beautiful rose. 
 
 Large, expanded, and semi-dou- 
 ble. A strong grower. Shaded 
 with dark velvety crimson. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower and very fragrant. 
 Shaded with flesh color. 
 
 Very large, full, and very fra- 
 grant. A strong grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Centre pink, and 
 very pretty. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. A strong grower. 
 
 Very large, globular, and full. A 
 strong grower. Very fragrant. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Moderate grower, very fragrant, 
 and surrounded by a pale tint. 
 
 
 Comtesse de Rambuteau,... 
 
 Peach, 
 
 Rosy purple,. 
 Bright red,... 
 Rich carmine, 
 Pink, 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pur. crimson, 
 
 Bril. scarlet,. 
 
 Bright rose,.. 
 
 Delicate rose, 
 Laven' r blush 
 Blush, 
 
 
 Duchesse de Montpensier, ... 
 
 
 Duchesse de Sutherland,... 
 Earl Talbot, 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 Bright red,... 
 
 
 
 
80 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 REMONTANTES— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Ferdinand Deppe, 
 Fulgorie, 
 
 Geant des Batailles, . 
 Gloire de Rosamene, . 
 
 Grande Capitaine, . 
 Jacques Lafitte, .... 
 
 Julie Dupont, 
 
 Lady Alice Peel,... 
 
 Lady Elphingstone, . 
 Lady Fordwich, 
 
 Lady Sefton, . 
 
 Lady Stuart, 
 
 Lane, 
 
 Laura Ramand, . 
 La Reine, 
 
 La Renoncule, 
 
 Louis Buonaparte,. 
 
 Rose, 
 
 Rosy lilac, .... 
 
 Bril. crimson, 
 Crimson scar. 
 
 Crimson scar 
 Bright rose, . 
 
 Rich rose, 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 Richrosycrim 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Delicate flesh, 
 Purplish rose, 
 Light blush, .. 
 Rose, 
 
 Cherry crim., 
 
 Deep vermil. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. A free 
 grower, and very fragrant. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower, and very fra- 
 grant, with rosy crimson centre. 
 
 Large, expanded, and double, A 
 moderate grower, very fragrant, 
 and beautiful. Very desirable. 
 
 Large, cupped, and semi-double. 
 A strong grower, blooming in 
 clusters. Occasionally shaded 
 with purple and striped with 
 white. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Dwarf grower . Beautiful . 
 
 Large, expauded, and full. A 
 vigorous grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Very fragrant. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, fragrant, and very 
 pretty. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 moderate grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. A 
 moderate grower, with a pur- 
 plish tinge, changing to pale 
 rose color. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and double. 
 A strong grower. Pretty and 
 distinct. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Beautiful. 
 
 Large, expanded, and full. Mod- 
 erate grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower. Very desirable. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. Of- 
 ten shaded with lilac ; occasion- 
 ally with crimson. A strong 
 grower. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and full. 
 A moderate grower, and very 
 pretty. 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 beautiful rose, very fragrant, 
 and a strong grower. 
 

 1 
 
 AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 81 
 
 REMONT ANTES— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Lilac blush,.. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 strong grower, and shaded with 
 deep rose color. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and full. 
 A dwarf grower, of exquisite 
 form. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 A moderate grower, and very 
 distinct. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Very fragrant, and a strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, full, and compact. Beau- 
 tifully shaded with carmine. 
 Very pretty. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. Strong 
 grower. One of the best of the 
 group. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and fine 
 form. Moderate grower, and a 
 beautiful rose. 
 
 Large, compact, and very double. 
 Dwarfish habit, very fragrant, 
 and a free bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, fragrant, and very 
 showy. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and full. A 
 strong grower and very fra- 
 grant. Tinged with purple. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. A strong grower and a 
 beautiful rose. 
 
 Large, compact, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, and often shaded 
 with purple. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, compact, and full. Very 
 fragrant, and a strong grower. 
 Very desirable. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. Strong grower, and bloom- 
 ing in clusters. 
 
 Medium size, globular, and very 
 double. A moderate grower 
 and a profuse bloomer. 
 
 
 
 Bril. carmine, 
 Purplish rose, 
 Silvery rose, .. 
 Nearly white, 
 Blush, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Delicate pink, 
 Bright pink,. 
 
 Purplish rose, 
 
 Velvety crim. 
 
 Crimson pur. 
 Crimson pur. 
 
 Rosy lilac,.... 
 
 Rosy purple, . 
 
 Mathilde Jourdeuil, 
 
 Melanie Cornu 
 
 Mrs. Elliott, 
 
 
 
 
 Prince of Wales 
 
 
 6 
 
THE AMATEUKS' GUIDE 
 
 REMONT ANTES— Continued . 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Dark purplish 
 
 crimson. 
 Rosy pink, .... 
 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Bril. cherry,. 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Bril. crimson, 
 
 Lig't crimson 
 
 Pale rose, .,, 
 
 Large, compact, and full. Strong 
 grower. 
 
 Very large, globular, and full. A 
 strong grower. 
 
 Very large, compact, and full. A 
 strong grower, and blooming in 
 clusters. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. Very 
 fragrant, and a strong grower. 
 
 Medium size, compact, and very 
 double. Dwarfish habit. 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. A 
 moderate grower and very dis- 
 tinct. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. Moderate grower, tinged 
 with purple. 
 
 Large, compact, and full. Petals 
 very thick, and a strong grower. 
 
 
 
 
 
 William Griffith, 
 
 
 PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES. 
 
 Some few years since, this family of the rose was quite limited, 
 comprising a favorite old group more remarkable for the delicious 
 fragrance of their flowers than for their size or beauty of form • 
 but, from hybridization, have now become so extensive, varied in 
 color, and character, that for fragrance, color, and perfection 
 of their bloom, they cannot be surpassed. Many roses are sold 
 under this head which fall far short of what their name would 
 imply, blooming but once, (in June,) and, with all the encourage- 
 ment which may be given them, they seldom produce the second 
 bloom. They are quite hardy, and make fine standard plants. 
 The culture recommended for the Remontantes is applicable to 
 this class of the rose. They may be propagated by either of the 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 83 
 
 methods designated. In rooting by layers, however, they will be 
 found to require two years to form rootlets. Budding and graft- 
 ing are preferable, and by far the easiest and quickest method for 
 this family. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Angelina, . 
 Antinous, 
 
 Belle Faber, 
 Grande. 
 
 Bernard, 
 
 Madame Ferray. 
 Perpetual Pom-pone. 
 Billiard, 
 
 Georgina. 
 
 Claire du Chatelet, . 
 
 Couronne de Beranger, . 
 
 Crimson, 
 
 Rose du Roi. 
 D' Angers, 
 
 D'Esquermes, 
 
 Royale. 
 De Montmorency, 
 
 Desdemona, 
 
 Deuil de Dumont d'TJrville, 
 
 Duchesse de Rohan, 
 
 Earl of Derby, 
 
 Eliza Balcombe, 
 
 Grande et Belle, 
 
 Indigo, 
 
 Isaure Lablee, . 
 
 Crimson pur 
 Pur. crimson 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Salmon, 
 
 Rosy pink,. 
 
 Rosy pink,... 
 
 Rosy red, 
 Crimson,. 
 
 Pale rose, . 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Rosy crimson 
 Rosy purple, . 
 Pur. crimson, 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Rose, 
 
 White, 
 
 Purplish rose, 
 Dark purple, . 
 
 Pink, 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and full. 
 
 A dwarf grower. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Perfect 
 
 and fragrant. 
 Very large, globular, and full. 
 
 Very fragrant, and occasionally 
 
 tinted with purple. 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. 
 
 Very pretty, free bloomer, and 
 
 fragrant. 
 Large, expanded, and double. A 
 
 dwarf grower, free bloomer, and 
 
 fragrant. 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 
 double. Free grower. 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Very 
 
 fragrant. 
 Large and double. A free bloom- 
 er and very fragrant. 
 Large, compact, and full. Showy 
 
 and very fragrant. 
 Large, expanded, and very double. 
 
 Very fine foliage. 
 Small, cupped, and double. Very 
 
 fragrant and distinct. 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 
 Spotted with chocolate color. 
 Large, compact, and full. Tinged 
 
 with lilac. Very fine. 
 Large, cupped, and full. Tinged 
 
 with white. A strong grower. 
 Small, cupped, and very double. 
 
 Centre pinkish blush. 
 Very large, globular, and double. 
 
 Perfect form. 
 Large, expanded, and double. 
 
 Very distinct. Sometimes tint- 
 ed with rosy crimson. 
 Medium size, expanded, and very 
 
 double. A profuse bloomer, and 
 
 shaded with lilac. 
 
84 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Jeanne Hatchette, 
 
 Lilac rose,.... 
 Pink'h blush, 
 
 Dark rose,.... 
 Rosy crimson 
 
 Pale rose, , 
 
 Glossy rosy 
 
 lilac. 
 Crimson, 
 
 Blush .. 
 
 Very large, globular, and very 
 
 double. Fragrant, and a strong- 
 grower. 
 Large, globular, and full. Very 
 
 fragrant, and desirable. 
 Medium size, double, and very 
 
 fragrant. 
 Medium size, full, and fragrant. 
 
 Occasionally spotted with blush. 
 
 Very pretty. 
 Large, compact, and very double. 
 
 Erect habit and dense foliage. 
 
 Small, very pretty, and a profuse 
 bloomer. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. Very 
 fragrant and desirable. 
 
 Large, expanded, and double. 
 Very rich. Shaded with dark 
 purple. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. Centre 
 rosy. 
 
 Large, compact, and full. Lilac 
 tinted, fine habit, and very 
 fragrant. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, shaded with rich 
 purple, and very superb. 
 
 Medium size, compact, and full. 
 Centre rosy pink. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Striped with red. 
 
 Medium size, expanded, and very 
 double. Spotted with white. 
 
 Small, cupped, and full. Rather 
 delicate. 
 
 Large, cupped, aDd double. Tint- 
 ed with purple. 
 
 Very large, cupped, and very dou- 
 ble. Blooms finely late in the 
 season. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and double. 
 Marbled. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 Occasionally striped, but more 
 frequently only mottled with 
 white. 
 
 
 Lady Seymour, 
 
 
 Flon. 
 Gloire des. 
 
 Laurence de Montmorency, 
 Louis Philippe, 
 
 
 Minerva, 
 
 Rosy pink, ... 
 Bril. crimson, 
 Blush, .. 
 
 Mogador, 
 
 Crimson Superb. 
 Palmyre, 
 
 Blush Perpetual. 
 Striped Perpetual. 
 
 Pale flesh,.... 
 Bright rose,.. 
 Bright crim., 
 Deep crimson 
 Blush pink,.. 
 
 Violet & crim. 
 Etosy pink,... 
 
 Princesse Royale, 
 
 
 Requien, 
 
 Saint Fiacre, 
 
 Striped Crimson Perpetual, 
 Captain Renard. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES— Continued. 
 
 85 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Triomphe de Rouen, 
 
 Rosy blush,.. 
 Pur. crimson, 
 Deep pink, .... 
 
 Medium size, compact, and full. 
 
 Very pretty. 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 
 double. 
 Large, cupped, nnd full. Tinted 
 
 ■with lilac blush, strong grower, 
 
 and blooming in large clusters. 
 
 
 Youlande d'Aragon, 
 
 ROSA MICHROPHYLLA.— The Small-leaved Rose. 
 
 The plants of this family are very beautiful, being more distinct 
 both in their flowers and habit than either of the other classes. 
 They are perfectly hardy, delighting in a dry, rich, warm, sandy 
 soil. Several varieties of this group are well adapted for cover- 
 ing verandahs, buildings, &c, combining many different colors. 
 Some possess a delightful fragrance, and, being generally strong 
 growers, may be trained in any desired form. They may be pro- 
 pagated by either of the methods enumerated, but layering is 
 deemed preferable, as being the safest and quickest mode for 
 securing handsome and well-formed plants. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 
 Yell' sk white, 
 Pale rose, 
 
 Bright rose, . . 
 
 Large, cupped, and double. Very 
 fragrant, and a very strong 
 grower. 
 
 Large, cupped, and very double. 
 The calix is thick and prickly 
 before expanding, resembling 
 the chinquapin, and makes a 
 fine standard plant if properly 
 trimmed. A moderate grower. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and very 
 
 White Michrophylla. 
 Magnolia Rose. 
 
 Pink Michrophylla. 
 
 
 double. 
 
86 
 
 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 ROSA MICHROPHYLLA— Continued. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Cramoisis, 
 
 Violet Cramoisie. 
 
 Rubra Violacea. — Rosea. 
 Du Luxembourg, 
 
 Purpurea, 
 
 Rubra, , 
 
 Triomphe de Macketeaux, . 
 Pourpre du Luxembourg 
 
 Color. 
 
 Purpl'hpink, 
 
 Deep pink,... 
 Pur. crimson, 
 Rosy crimson 
 Blush, 
 
 Description. 
 
 Double and cupped. Luxuriant 
 growth and small calix. 
 
 Large, cupped, and full. Moderate 
 grower, and shaded with blush. 
 
 Very large and cupped, with small 
 calix. 
 
 Large, globular, and full. A mod- 
 erate grower, tinted with blush. 
 
 Medium size, cupped, and full. 
 Edged with rose color. 
 
 ROSA MOSCHATA.— The Musk-scented Rose. 
 
 This family received its name from the peculiar, and to many- 
 disagreeable, odor which they exhale when in flower, and em- 
 brace single, semi-double, and a few very double varieties. They 
 are more or less tender, and, in bleak and unsheltered situations, 
 should be protected by coverings of straw or the branches of ever- 
 greens. The treatment recommended for the Noisettes is adapted 
 to this class of the rose. Being rapid growers, they make hand- 
 some pillar roses. . They require a dry situation and rich soil. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Color. 
 
 Description. 
 
 Herbemonth's Musk Cluster 
 
 Pure white, 
 
 Nivea, 
 
 White, . 
 
 Princesse de Nassau, . 
 
 Yel'sh white, 
 
 Ranunculus Musk Cluster, Pure white,.. 
 New Double Musk Cluster.] 
 
 Very large and double. Bloom- 
 ing the whole season, in clusters. 
 
 Large, cupped, and single. A 
 strong grower, and shaded with 
 rose color. 
 
 Very double and cupped. Par- 
 takes strongly of the musk odor. 
 
 Perfectly double, but does not 
 open well in moist weather. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 87 
 
 EXPLANATION OF TERMS 
 
 EMPLOYED IN DESCRIBING THE ROSES ENUMERATED. 
 
 Having used certain terms in describing the plants enumerated 
 in the preceding pages, we deem it due to the general reader that 
 we should explain, viz : 
 
 Small, signifying from l£ to 2 inches in diameter. 
 
 Medium size, " 2 to2| " 
 
 Large, " %\ to 3| " 
 
 Very large, " 3 \ to 5 " 
 
 Single. — Such as have but one row of petals. 
 
 Semi-double. — Having from two to five rows of petals. 
 
 Double. — Having more than five rows of petals, yet showing the stamens 
 in the centre of the flower. 
 
 Very double. — Possessing a sufficient number of petals to hide the central 
 stamens. 
 
 Full. — Where the petals are placed closely together. 
 Globular. — Assuming that form, and remaining closed, or nearly so, till 
 nearly full blown. 
 
 Cupped. — Where the outer petals stand erect or are incurved. The inner 
 petals being smaller than the outer, forming a hollow in the centre like a cup. 
 
 Compact. — Where the petals are stiff and upright, the centre being nearly 
 level with the circumference ; more frequently above than below it. 
 
 Expanded. — Where the outer petals, instead of being erect, lie nearly hori- 
 zontal, generally turning back upon the flower-stalks in the last stage. 
 
 Perfect, fine, good, and beautiful. — Where the variety or form are very 
 elegant. 
 
 Dwarf. — Humble or low growth. 
 
 Erect. — Whose shoots rise perpendicular. 
 
 Branching. — Where the shoots have the tendency to branch from the cen- 
 tre of the plant. 
 
 Moderate. — Such as form neat and compact bushes. 
 
 Strong and vigorous. — Such as are rapid and robust growers. 
 
 Standards. — From three to five feet in height. 
 
THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 SELECT LIST OF ROSES. 
 
 In the foregoing lists, we have embraced such only as we feel 
 assured, with proper care and attention, will prove every way 
 worthy of cultivation. We might readily have extended the same 
 by hundreds, but as we propose to point out to the Amateur such 
 plants only as are worthy of a place in every collection, we have 
 confined ourself to those enumerated. There are several recent 
 additions, whose merits are yet to be tested. Among such a num- 
 ber of beautiful varieties, where there are so many lovely forms 
 and colors, dazzling the eye and attracting the senses, the inexpe- 
 rienced Amateur, no doubt, will find it impossible to choose. In 
 order to assist him in making a judicious selection of plants from 
 the multitude which compose the groups and subdivisions of the 
 rose family, we have carefully selected the following choice varie- 
 ties from those enumerated, which will be found to possess, in an 
 eminent degree, the beauty, fragrance, and varied attractions 
 of the rose, viz : 
 
 MULTIFLORA ROSES. 
 
 Laura Davoust, deep pink to pure white. Russelliana, crimson. 
 
 MOSS ROSES. 
 
 Crested Provins, rosy pink. Panachee Pleine, white or flesh. 
 
 Crimson Pompon, rosy violet. Princesse Adelaide, rosy blush. 
 
 Laffay's Perpetual White Moss, white. Rouge, crimson. 
 
 NOISETTE ROSES. 
 
 Aimee Vibert, pure white. Jaune Desprez, rosy buff. 
 
 Cloth of Gold, liyht yellow. Lamarque, greenish white. 
 
 Comtesse Odoisee, pink. La Pactole, pale sulphur. 
 
 Couque de Venus, creamy white. Ophire, redish copper. 
 
 Dona Maria, rose. Solfatare, sulphur yellow. 
 
 Fellenburg, pale red. Triomphe de la Duchere, pale rose. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 
 
 TEA-SCENTED ROSES. 
 
 Adam, deep blush. 
 Bougere, salmon. 
 Caroline, rosy pink. 
 Clara Sylvain, pure white. 
 Devoniensis, creamy white. 
 Eliza Sauvage, creamy yellow. 
 
 Gobault, rosy blush. 
 Jaune Panache, light straw. 
 Josephine Malton, creamy white. 
 La Sylphide, creamy white. 
 Madame Desprez, pure white. 
 Safrano, saffron. 
 
 BENGAL CHLNESE, OR DAILY ROSES. 
 
 Archduke Charles, bright rose. 
 Beau Carmin, dark crimson purple. 
 Carmin d' Yebles, bright carmine. 
 Cramoisie Superieur, velvety crimson. 
 Eugene Beauharnais, rich crimson. 
 Hortensia, blush pink. 
 
 Icterose, creamy white. 
 
 Madame Breon, bright rose. 
 
 Madame de Crequi, blush. 
 
 Mellez, pure white. 
 
 Reine de Lombardie, bright rosy red. 
 
 Virginale, blush. 
 
 MINIATURE ROSES. 
 Alba, pure white. La Miniature, bright pink. 
 
 BOURBON ROSES. 
 
 Armosa, deep pink. 
 Boquet de Flore, bright carmine. 
 Crimson Globe, purplish crimson. 
 Dupetit Thouars, dark crimson. 
 Hennequin, rosy crimson. 
 Julie Deloynes, flesh. 
 
 Madame Lacharme, white. 
 Mrs. Bosanquet, creamy white. 
 Paul Joseph, purplish crimson. 
 Queen of the Bourbons, fawn. 
 Souvenir de la Malmaison, del. blush. 
 Scipio, purplish crimson. 
 
 HYRRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 
 
 Aubernon, rosy crimson. 
 Clementine Seringe, rosy pink. 
 Commandant Fournier, crimson. 
 Comte de Montalivet, violet red. 
 Comtesse de Rambuteau, peach. 
 Docteur Marx, rich carmine. 
 
 Duchesse de Praslin, blush. 
 Geant des Batailles, bril. crimson. 
 Grande Capitaine, crimson scarlet. 
 Lady Alice Peel, rosy crimson. 
 La Reine, rose. 
 Prince Albert, crimson purple. 
 
 PERPETUAL DAMASK ROSES. 
 
 Belle Faber, rosy crimson. 
 
 Bernard, salmon. 
 
 Claire du Chatelet, rosy pink. 
 
 Josephine Antoinette, pinkish blush. 
 Laurence de Montmorency, glossy 
 rosy lilac. 
 
90 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 Deuil de Dumont d' Urville, purplish Minerva, rosy pink, 
 
 crimson. Requien, blush pink. 
 
 Eliza Balcome, white. Triomphe de Rouen, rosy blush. 
 
 Isaure Lablee, pink. Youlande d'Aragon, dark pink. 
 
 SMALL-LEAVED ROSES. 
 Alba Odorata, yellowish white. Carnea, pale rose. 
 
 MUSK-SCENTED ROSES. 
 Ilerbemonth's Musk Cluster, lohite. Princesse de Nassau, yellowish white. 
 
 MILDEW. 
 
 Where extremes of temperature prevail, this disease is sure to 
 make its appearance, generally in July and August. The follow- 
 ing mixture will prove an effective remedy for its removal. To 
 one-cpiarter of a pound of unslacked lime, add one pound of flour- 
 of-sulphur, poring two gallons of boiling water over the same, 
 and cover close for one hour. Stir the whole well together, until 
 the sulphur sinks to the bottom. Let it settle, and pour off for 
 use. One quart of this mixture to one gallon of water will be 
 sufficiently strong for this purpose. Apply by the syringe. 
 
 DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS. 
 
 Among the most injurious and troublesome of all insects, 
 against whose depredations the Amateur has to contend, are the 
 Rose-bug and Rose-worm. Unlike some of his other unwelcome 
 annual visitors, they can only be removed by hand picking. The 
 former will be found upon the blossom as soon as it expands; the 
 latter on the bud. 
 
 The Green-fly is also very troublesome, but may be readily ex- 
 terminated by a few applications, with the syringe, of tobacco - 
 water or whale-oil soap-suds, in the evening, and with pure water 
 again on the following morning. If the latter be omitted, the 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 91 
 
 remedy may prove more destructive than the disease. One- 
 half ounce of whale-oil soap to one gallon of water will be suffi- 
 ciently strong for this purpose. If tobacco-water be used, two 
 ounces of tobacco, boiled in one gallon of water, and allowed to 
 cool, will be effective. Having rid the plants of these trouble- 
 some pests, stir the soil about their roots, which will tend to 
 refresh them. 
 
 The Slug, unlike the bug and the worm, confines his ravages 
 to the foliage of the plant, and will destroy nearly every leaf if not 
 checked in his devastations. Whale-oil soap-suds, applied by the 
 syringe or watering-pot, over the foliage of the plant, will effect 
 this object. They are also fond of the ends of young shoots 
 of some other plants, (Carnations, &c.,) and are very troublesome 
 where they abound. Where the above remedy is not at hand, 
 if a hair-pencil, dipped in linseed-oil, be drawn around the shoots 
 of the plants, once in two days, the Slug will not attack them. 
 Few insects can endure oil, and the smallest quantity generally 
 will stop their ravages. 
 
 The Fly is also very destructive in some localities. During 
 the months of July and August, the tops of the young shoots 
 of roses are frequently seen to droop. This is caused by the rav- 
 ages of a fly. As soon as perceptible, the ends of the shoots 
 should be cut off from eight to ten inches, when the Grub, its 
 offspring, will be found imbedded in the centre. The Fly is sup- 
 posed to lay its eggs on some of the young wood near the ground, 
 in May or June. If the shoots attacked are not cut off and 
 destroyed, the grub will make his escape, under a leaf, near the 
 top, make for the ground, and live to repeat his depredations the 
 ensuing year. 
 
 PROTECTING TENDER ROSES. 
 
 In covering roses for the winter, be careful not to injure them 
 by binding whatever is used for the purpose too tight about the 
 branches, for it is not warmth you wish to impart, but to afford 
 
92 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 them protection against sudden changes of temperature, especi- 
 ally against alternating freezing and thawing. Branches of ever- 
 greens should be used for this purpose, and are preferable to 
 straw. If the latter be used, and put on closely, it is very apt to 
 sweat, which should be avoided. In order to secure partial access 
 to the air and light, they should be placed moderately loose over 
 the plant, yet sufficiently secure to prevent them from being dis- 
 placed by high winds. 
 
 GRAFTING-WAX. 
 
 To two ounces of bees-wax add one ounce of beef-tallow, four 
 ounces of common pitch, and twelve ounces of Burgundy pitch. 
 Melt all together, and apply when in a fluid state with a brush. 
 Be careful not to apply the same when too hot. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 93 
 
 GARDEN PLANTS. 
 
 BOX EDGING, 
 
 Has a beautiful appearance if kept neatly trimmed and regular, 
 especially in winter, and adds much to the beauty of the garden. 
 The dwarf variety (Buxus suffruticosa) is generally employed 
 for this purpose, and may be readily propagated from cuttings or 
 slips, early in the spring or October. The latter is preferable, 
 for, if ordinary care be taken in planting, it will be sufficiently 
 rooted to encounter the scorching rays of the sun, which, in dry 
 seasons particularly, burns and frequently destroys that set out in 
 the spring. Any common garden soil will answer for this pur- 
 pose. If to be raised from cuttings, in the spring, they should be 
 planted in a bed to themselves, where they can have shade and 
 waterings; for, when planted as edging, if some should fail to 
 grow, the same becomes uneven and full of gaps, and will be 
 found rather difficult to get in good shape again. To perform the 
 operation, the margin of the beds having been properly leveled, 
 excavate a drill from four to six inches deep, according to the 
 length of the cuttings or slips to be inserted, and, if the former ? 
 place them within half an inch of each other, in alternate rows, 
 gently pressing them in an upright position. Draw the soil up 
 around them, and moderately press the same. To form a neat 
 edging, the operator should be careful to have the cuttings or 
 slips equally distributed. In planting slips, the alternate row 
 may be dispensed with ; in which case, the tops should be slightly 
 pressed into each other, so as to form an unbroken and even 
 surface. Both cuttings and slips should be deprived of all leaves 
 as far up from the bottom as they are to be inserted in the soil, 
 which may be easily effected by drawing them gently through the 
 
94 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 Land. When inserted, draw the earth up nearly to the top of the 
 slips, pressing neatly and closely the same, and cut any inequali- 
 ties of the top even. Give moderate waterings in dry weather 
 during the first season after planting. Where parallel lines are to 
 be set out, a garden-line should be used to )ay off the ground. In 
 trimming, the month of October should be selected. 
 
 CARNATION PINKS. 
 
 These beautiful plants are very desirable acquisitions to the 
 garden, and when well grown, the beauty and odor of their flow- 
 ers cannot be surpassed. They should have a rich deep soil, and 
 may be propagated from seed, pipings, or layers. The latter will 
 be found preferable to either of the former and the most successful 
 method. In layering, the lowest young shoots should be selected. 
 Pull off the under leaves and cut a small slit or gash upward at 
 a joint on the under side Lay that portion in the earth two or 
 three inches deep, as the plant will admit, and peg the shoot 
 down with a small hooked stick, keeping the top upright above 
 ground and the slit part open, bending it carefully so as not to 
 break at the incision. Press the soil gently around with the fing- 
 ers, and cut off about half an inch of the top of the shoot. The 
 sap will granulate at the wound and throw out roots, and, if kept 
 moderately moist, in about four or six weeks, they will be suffi- 
 ciently rooted to sever from the parent plant, when they may be 
 transplanted or permitted to remain until the ensuing spring. In 
 the latter case, they should be protected with leaves, straw, or the 
 branches of evergreens. If desired, they may be planted in pots 
 as soon as they have taken root and placed in the pit, where they 
 can be kept with perfect safety, if air be given them in mild 
 weather. As soon as the plants are done flowering, is the proper 
 time to select for this purpose. 
 
 The operation of piping consists in planting detached parts 
 of the young shoots, which either pull out of the pipe or cut 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 95 
 
 off below in proper lengths. Pull off the under leaves and cut 
 each shoot clean to a lower joint, cutting that part even at the 
 end, and shorten the top leaves even. Place them in a bed, bor- 
 der, or pots of good soil, an inch or two apart, inserted down to 
 their leaves. Water and shade from the sun. If covered close 
 with hand-glasses, they will not only root sooner, but much more 
 effectively. The month of July should be selected for this pur_ 
 pose. In a month or six weeks they will be sufficiently rooted 
 for transplanting. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 This old and much-esteemed fall flower, blooming when most 
 of the summer bloomers have taken their leave, has been greatly 
 improved in appearance by hybridization. So unlike and distinct 
 are some of the new varieties as to be scarcely recognised as the 
 same flower. Many of the dwarf varieties resemble the quilled 
 China Asters. They are all perfectly hardy, and may be propa- 
 gated by any of the ordinary methods. The dwarf varieties, oc- 
 cupying a very small space, well merit a place in every collection 
 of plants. If the tops of the strongest shoots be selected for cut- 
 tings, in April or May, and planted in the open ground, their 
 tops pinched off to within five or six joints, and kept moderately 
 watered, they will form handsome and strong-flowering plants. 
 Being strong feeders, they should have a rich strong soil to enable 
 them to flower in perfection. As soon as the plants show their 
 flower-buds, they should be securely staked. If one-third of their 
 buds be pinched off, the remainder will more than compensate for 
 their abscence. 
 
 DAHLIA. 
 
 The Dahlia, particularly when planted early in the season, is 
 frequently attacked, and their beauty greatly impaired, by the red 
 
96 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 spider ; their foliage being often entirely destroyed by these trou- 
 blesome insects. The following mixture will serve to rid the 
 plants of this pest of the garden. To a half pound of the flour-of- 
 sulphur add a half pound of unslacked lime, mix well together in 
 three pints of water, and boil for ten minutes, stirring it well when 
 boiling. Remove from the fire, and, when settled, bottle for use. 
 To one part of this mixture add two parts of water, and apply 
 the same to the under part of the leaves by the syringe, until the in- 
 sect has disappeared. The young shoots are also frequently attack- 
 ed by earwigs. If any common oil be applied to the stalk near the 
 ground, it will generally serve to free the plant from these vora- 
 cious insects. If licmid manure be occasionally applied to Dah- 
 lias, it will add to the profusion and beauty of their bloom. 
 
 GERANIUMS 
 
 This family of plants, with proper culture, will amply repay in 
 the profusion and beauty of their bloom the labor bestowed upon 
 them. Very exciting composts should not be used for these 
 plants, for where they make a rapid growth, they do not produce 
 their bloom in the same perfection as when kept within proper 
 bounds. They should have a soil composed of one-half pure 
 loam, one-fourth leaf-mould, and one-fourth well-rotted manure, 
 well incorporated together. Excessive moisture is very injurious, 
 causing the leaves to fall, and gives the plant the appearance 
 of mildew. When crowded, some of the lateral branches should 
 be thinned out. Greraniumns may be propagated from seed, cut- 
 tings, or slips of the root. If placed in a shady and dry position, 
 cuttings will readily root in three or four weeks. Plant out in 
 June. 
 
 HYDRANGEA. 
 
 These beautiful and showy plants may readily be propagated 
 from cuttings, layers, or divisions of the root, in the ordinary 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 97 
 
 manner. They delight in a rich loamy soil, and should be 
 planted in a shady and moist situation. They are quite hardy. 
 The wood should bo quite ripe to insure success by either method 
 of propagation. The colors of these plants may, to a certain ex- 
 tent, be varied by artificial means. The rose-colored variety, 
 (Hydrangea uortensis,) by means of a mixture of iron with the 
 soil they grow in, may be changed to a blue tint. To attain this 
 result, iron-filings, or the refuse which accumulates on a grind- 
 stone, should be employed. 
 
 LILIES. 
 
 This large and handsome family of flowering bulbs, delighting 
 in a soil composed of well-rotted manure, leaf-mould, and sandy 
 loam, in equal parts, may be propagated generally from offsets, 
 and some varieties from seed. Most of the species are quite 
 hardy, but if covered with well-rotted manure, will bloom much 
 stronger. They generally flower in July and August, and should 
 be well watered in dry seasons till done blooming. When a dis- 
 position for dormancy is evinced, watering should be dispensed 
 with; and, if in pots, the stalks cut down, and the bulbs removed 
 to some place protected against frost, there to remain until the 
 season for flowering. As soon as the foliage begins to decay, the 
 roots may be divided. If delayed until the foliage commences to 
 grow, the bloom will be greatly weakened. 
 
 PETUNIAS. 
 
 Blooming from June to November, and every shoot being laden 
 with flowers, the Petunia should have a place in every garden. 
 Some varieties, when once established, will sow themselves rather 
 too plentifully over the garden. The better sorts should only be 
 cultivated, and will amply repay, in the beauty and profusion 
 of their flowers, the labor bestowed upon them. They can easily 
 
98 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 be propagated from cuttings, from June to October, and, if planted 
 in the pit, or a warm shady border, under hand-glasses, will root 
 quite freely. If desired for planting out the ensuing spring, they 
 should be struck in September, and when sufficiently rooted, pot- 
 ted off and placed in the pit to be kept through the winter. They 
 should have a rich sandy loam. 
 
 VERBENAS. 
 
 The graceful habit, brilliancy of colors, and the long continu- 
 ance of their bloom, render these beautiful plants a valuable ac- 
 quisition to the Flower-garden. They should never be staked, as 
 it destroys the beauty of the plant. When permitted to run on the 
 ground, if the soil be moderately good, they will generally propa- 
 gate themselves to a very great extent, nearly every eye in contact 
 with the soil taking root and forming handsome and strong-bloom- 
 ing plants. When attacked by the green-fly or mildew, the reme- 
 dies recommended for roses should be applied. They may readily 
 be propagated from cuttings in the ordinary manner. Some vari- 
 eties will live through the winter if covered with straw or litter, 
 but they do not do as well as young plants set out in the spring. 
 
 YUCCA. 
 
 The beauty of these plants when in flower must be seen to be 
 properly appreciated. They are perfectly hardy, delighting in a 
 rich light soil, and may readily be propagjited by dividing the 
 roots in April or May. Retaining their deep green foliage 
 through the winter, they form very ornamental and desirable 
 plants, and merit a place in every collection. 
 
 HOUSE PLANTS IN "WINTER. 
 
 In taking plants in the house, the object is twofold, protection 
 against frost and to have them bloom in winter. Plants designed 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 09 
 
 for winter flowering, should be potted off in summer, placed in a 
 shady position, and permitted to rest, by which treatment they 
 will gain strength. Plants which bloom in summer must rest in 
 winter, and when not allowed to bloom in summer, become artifi- 
 cially changed. When housed, the essential requisites to enable 
 them to bloom well are light, moisture, temperature, and clean- 
 liness. 
 
 The plants should be placed in such a position where each por- 
 tion can receive its due share of light, or they will grow strag- 
 gling, weak, and out of shape, by bending toward the light. 
 
 In order to secure a proper drainage, the pots should have pieces 
 of broken flower-pots, charcoal, &c, placed in the bottom. This 
 should be done particularly for geraniums and roses.' Different 
 plants require different degrees of moisture. The aquatic plants 
 require an abundance, while others should only have a sufficiency 
 to keep the soil moderately moist. Give water in proportion to 
 the wants of the plant. 
 
 Sudden changes of temperature should be particularly guarded 
 against. Too much heat destroys the foliage, as well as the buds. 
 In open weather, give fresh air to the plants, and keep the soil 
 loosened in the tops of the pots. 
 
 Should the green-fly make his appearance, place the plants in 
 such a situation that they can be fumigated with tobacco-smoke. 
 Twenty minutes will serve for this purpose. Brush the plants 
 gently, cleanse the pots, and give fresh air. The tops of the 
 plants should be sprinkled three times a week, for it not only 
 serves to keep them clean, but greatly strengthens them. If these 
 precautions be adhered to, the bloom will amply repay the labor 
 bestowed upon them. 
 
 Where plants are housed merely for protection, they may be 
 safely kept by placing them in any ordinary room, having a suffi- 
 ciency of light, and in which the temperature does not fall below 
 40°. In open weather, give moderate waterings. More plants 
 are lost in house culture from excessive heat and the want of fresh 
 air and light than those lost by other causes. 
 
100 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 BULBS IN POTS 
 
 The soil used for this purpose should be composed of leaf-mould, 
 loam, and well-rotted manure, in equal parts. When the pots are 
 filled, place the bulb in the centre, and gently press into the soil 
 until it becomes nearly covered. Place in a cool situation to assist 
 their rooting. If deprived of light, they will root more readily. 
 If moderately watered when planted and placed in a tolerably 
 damp situation, they will not require watering until the tops begin 
 to shoot. As soon as they commence to grow, light and moderate 
 waterings are essential to the perfection of their flowers. Six-inch 
 pots should be employed for this purpose. When done flowering, 
 preserve in the same manner as described for spring and summer- 
 flowering bulbs. They may be planted from the first of November 
 to the middle of December. 
 
 BULBS IN GLASSES. 
 
 The glasses should be filled with rain or river water to within 
 about a quarter of an inch of the bottom of the bulb, as too much 
 moisture, before the roots protrude, often causes the bulb to de- 
 cay. The glasses should be placed in a light, but cool situation, 
 until the roots have grown half the length of the glass, when they 
 may be placed where wanted to bloom. The water should be 
 changed twice a week; and, when the bulbs have finished making 
 roots, they may be kept warm or cold, as the bloom is required in 
 succession. All roots which have once bloomed in glasses, should 
 be planted out as soon as the flowering is over, in order that they 
 may recover. By this method, they can generally be bloomed 
 every alternate year in glasses. When bulbs are backward in 
 making leaves, they may be greatly assisted by filling the glasses 
 with warm water. The bulbs should set steady in the glass. Raw 
 cotton will serve for this purpose. 
 
AND FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY. 101 
 
 CACTI. 
 
 A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, aud well-rotted manure, with 
 sand duly incorporated together, will serve for the successful cul- 
 ture of these beautiful flowering plants. The pots should, in every 
 instance, have broken fragments of flower-pots placed in the bot- 
 tom, to insure proper drainage; for without it, no success can be 
 reasonably expected. When they are done flowering, thin out the 
 least promising of the old and young wood, and place in a moder- 
 ately warm situation until they start growing freely. Reduce the 
 allowance of water gradually as they perfect their growth. When 
 they have done growing, and the wood feels firm, the pots may 
 be placed in some shady but airy place, protected from the drip 
 of other plants or dampness, aud kept clean of moss. Plants 
 managed in this manner, will generally flower well. The Cacti 
 may readily be propagated from cuttings and by grafting. To 
 perform the latter operation, take a portion of a shoot, having at 
 least four or five eyes, and shape the lower end into a wedge-like 
 form. Cut off the end of a shoot, and make an incision in the top 
 of the same sufficiently large to admit the graft. Insert the graft 
 to the depth of a half inch, and secure with a small wooden peg. 
 Large plants, having several different varieties grafted upon them, 
 present a beautiful appearance when in flower. 
 
AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 AND 
 
 VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL; 
 
 CONTAINING 
 PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOE THB 
 
 Successful |lr0tettt0tt of all (Mimrrg § cgcfaMcs 
 
 USUALLY 
 
 CULTIVATED FOR TABLE USE. 
 
 CAREFULLY COMPILED FROM VARIOUS RELIABLE SOURCES 
 
 BY JOHN T . C. CLARK. 
 
 WASHINGTON, D. C. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY TAYLOR & MAURY. 
 
 1856. 
 
VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 
 
 In the cultivation of the Garden, we experience a peculiar and 
 innocent pleasure, which is increased in proportion to the know- 
 ledge acquired and the labor bestowed. Herein is food for the 
 soul, the mind, and the heart, where all may obtain an abundant 
 supply from the bounties of Nature, as developed at their own 
 doors, and which, more than any other pursuit, afford rational 
 and profitable pleasures, enabling us to find happiness in our own 
 homes. "Cultivating the soil is like Charity — doubly blessed, in 
 sowing and reaping." All systems of gardening should be con- 
 ducted with discrimination. While proper attention is paid to the 
 general directions, due allowance should be made for the difference 
 of soil, situation, and climate, suited to each. Inattention to these 
 important points, is the cause of want of success which proves so 
 discouraging to the inexperienced Amateur. Much depends on 
 the selection of good seed, for without them, all efforts will prove 
 fruitless, and a barren waste will be the reward if this all-import- 
 ant object is not secured. 
 
 In order to place the means within the reach of all who are 
 deterred from cultivating a garden by the want of practical know- 
 ledge, we have embraced in the following pages every requisite 
 detail for the successful cultivation of the Vegetable-garden, care- 
 fully compiled from the "Encyclopedia of Gardening," "Lan- 
 dreth's Rural Register," and other various reliable sources. In 
 many cases their language has been employed, but it has not been 
 thought necessary to mark the quotations. Should they be in- 
 strumental in enabling any to enjoy the exquisite pleasure of par- 
 taking of the vegetables raised by their own labor, the object 
 of the compiler will be accomplished. 
 
106 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 SITUATION OF THE GARDEN. 
 
 A proper degree of shelter from cutting winds and full exposure 
 to the sun should be secured. The ground should have a gentle 
 declivity towards the south, inclining rather to the east, in order 
 that it may receive the benefit of the morning sun. A northern 
 exposure is unfavorable for general purposes, it being always cold 
 and late. It must be admitted, however, that it is not without its 
 advantages in summer, by retarding many kinds of vegetables 
 which would otherwise mature their seed before they had acquired 
 a size sufficient for culinary purposes. Salads, spinach, and cauli- 
 flowers are brought to perfection in northern exposures, when they 
 will make very slight progress if exposed to the full power of the 
 sun. In such situations, peas and many other vegetables yield 
 more abundantly during the hot summer months, particularly in 
 dry seasons. There should never be any trees of a considerable 
 height on the south side of a garden, for, during the winter and 
 early in the spring, they shade the garden when every sunbeam is 
 valuable. On the east side also the trees should be removed, so 
 as to admit the early morning rays of the sun. 
 
 PROPERTIES OF SOIL. 
 
 The soil best adapted for general garden purposes should be of a 
 rich loamy texture, dry, mellow, and capable of being worked at 
 all seasons, and from two to three feet deep. A loam of a mid- 
 dling texture, rather inclining to sand, will be found the most 
 suitable for the majority ofkitchen vegetables. If the soil be too 
 strong, the roots of the plants push weakly into it, and are apt to 
 canker and perish. If too light, and at the same time poor, the 
 roots of vegetables will wander in search of food, and may be 
 unable to collect a sufficient quantity for their support. Strong 
 and stubborn clays should be avoided, being the most unfit of all 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 107 
 
 others, as few vegetables will prosper in them. Gravelly soils are 
 also unfit for garden purposes, being generally sterile and not 
 readily enriched by manures, the finer particles being washed 
 off by the rains. Light sandy soils are not without their advan- 
 tages, because they are much warmer, and by affording a still less 
 quantity of moisture, the plants will not grow so luxuriantly, and 
 therefore be much sooner fit for use than those grown on strong 
 clayey soils. Early spring and winter vegetables are not only thus 
 earlier on sandy soils than upon clayey, but are also much more 
 capable of resisting the frost. 
 
 PROPERTIES OF MANURES. 
 
 The manures in general use are numerous. Horse manure is 
 considered the best for general garden purposes. The manure 
 of cattle, if slightly fermented, is well adapted for light, hot soils. 
 It is also well calculated for soils of a dry, absorbent nature, as it 
 retains its moisture for a greater length of time than most others. 
 Green vegetable matter forms an excellent manure. Bird offal is 
 a powerful manure, and should only be used as a compound, or 
 if used as a simple manure, great care must be observed in its ap- 
 plication. Soot is also a very strong manure, and should only be 
 used in dry weather, and applied to the surface of the soil. Wood- 
 ashes, if not too much burnt, is considered to be the most lasting 
 manure, and, when used for turnips, is supposed to protect them 
 against the ravages of the fly. Lime is an excellent manure, but 
 should never be applied with animal manure, unless it be too 
 rich, or for the purpose of preventing noxous effluvia. Manures, 
 whether animal or mineral, are of such importance to vegetation 
 that all possible diligence should be used in the collection and pre- 
 paration of them for the different purposes for which they may be 
 required. By a proper application of them, founded on correct 
 principles, the worst soil may not only be improved, but rendered 
 fit for the production of every vegetable that is usually cultivated 
 for the table. 
 
108 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 KITCHEN VEGETABLES. 
 
 The varieties in italic letters are the same, or essentially so, 
 as those in Roman, which immediately precede them. The names 
 of the seasons, and not those of the months, have been used; con- 
 sequently, seed directed to he planted early in the spring, should 
 he sown as soon as winter has departed, whether that he on the 
 1st of February in the South, or in March with us. So, likewise, 
 of the other seasons. 
 
 ARTICHOKE. 
 
 Cynara Scolymus, Cynara Hortensis, 
 
 French, or oval-headed. Large Globe. 
 
 This vegetable is propagated from seed and oiFsets. If from the 
 former, the seed should be sown in rows a foot apart, the middle 
 of spring, and thinned to about the same distance as soon as they 
 are an inch high. They should be kept clean from weeds, and 
 the ground about them worked occasionally during the summer. 
 When a year old, transplant to permanent beds, allowing each 
 plant two or three feet square of room. They require a very rich 
 soil. If propagated from offsets, the old plants should be exam- 
 ined for the most healthy, which must be separated with as much 
 root as possible. Holes, about fifteen inches in diameter and 
 twelve inches deep, must then be made about three feet from each 
 other, and filled in with manure. Two or three of the offsets 
 should be placed in each hole, six or eight inches apart, and have 
 a few inches of the tops trimmed off. Water them occasionally, 
 and dig the ground well between them. Protect during winter 
 by raising over them a mound of light dry earth. 
 
 The part principally used is the pulpy receptacle in the flower- 
 heads, termed the bottom, freed from the bristles or seed-down. 
 The tender central leaf-stalk, or mid rib of the leaf, blanched, is 
 also used, and by some thought preferable to the cardoon. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 109 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 Large Green Purple Top. 
 
 There are, it is said, several varieties of Asparagus, but the dif- 
 ference mainly arises from the nature of the soil. On strong loamy 
 land, the growth is more robust and the shoots more tender than 
 on sandy soil. 
 
 In making Asparagus beds, the chief point to be considered is 
 to make choice of a proper soil. It should not be wet nor too 
 strong, but moderately light and pliable, so that it will readily fall 
 to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that receives the 
 full sun. The ground intended for Asparagus beds should have a 
 large supply of well-rotted manure, laid several inches thick, and 
 should be then regularly trenched two or three feet, and the ma- 
 nure buried equally in each trench as the process goes on. The 
 ground being leveled, it should be divided into beds, four feet and 
 a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between the same. Four 
 rows of Asparagus should be planted in each bed, ten or twelve 
 inches distance being allowed between the plants in the rows, let- 
 ting the outside rows of each bed be nine inches from the edge. 
 They may be planted only in single rows, two feet and a half dis- 
 tant, or in narrow beds containing two rows of roots only. It is 
 of very great importance for insuring success in the planting 
 of Asparagus to lift the roots carefully, and to expose them to the 
 air as short a time as possible. While planting, it will be found 
 advisable to keep the roots covered. No plant feels an injury in 
 the root more keenly than Asparagus, and from the brittleness 
 of the roots when they are once broken, they do not readily shoot 
 again. 
 
 The seed of Asparagus should be planted early in the spring. 
 Soak them in warm water for twenty-four hours, and drill them 
 thinly in rows sufficiently wide apart to admit being worked with 
 the hoe. When two years old, they may be transplanted to per- 
 manent beds, which should be so situated as to cast off an excess 
 
110 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 of moisture. They should be planted at least four inches beneath 
 the surface, well manured at the time, and annually thereafter. 
 The sweetness and tenderness of the shoots depend very much on the 
 rapidity of growth, and this is promoted by the richness of the soil. 
 During the season of vegetation, they should be carefully weeded, 
 and the alleys between the rows frequently hoed and kept loose. 
 
 BEANS. 
 
 2 
 
 English. 9. Royal Dwarf, 
 t?„„i,t u an .m>ii White Kidney. 
 
 Ear l^?S n ' 10. EpyYeUowSii Weeks. 
 
 English Horse Bean. * l ■ Chl ™ * ed Ej e , 
 Sword Long Pod. Earl y Chma - 
 
 3. Broad Windsor. p0LE; QR KDNNEKS 
 
 bush, or snap shorts. 12. Large Lima, 
 
 4. Early Six Weeks, Butter Bean. 
 
 Early Mohawk. 13. Carolina Sewee, or Saba. 
 
 5. Red Speckled Valentine, 14. Scarlet Runner. 
 
 Red Marrow. 15. Red Cranberry. 
 
 6. Brown Speckled Valentine, 16. White Cranberry. 
 
 Refugee, or thousand to one. 17. White Dutch. 
 
 7. Red French. 18. Wren's Egg, or Horticultural. 
 
 8. Cranberry Bush. 
 
 This vegetable often fails, owing, in a great degree, to the heat 
 of summer, causing the blossoms to drop. To obviate this, they 
 should be planted as early in the season as possible, as soon as the 
 frost is out of the ground. The first crop will be the best, the late 
 sown being apt to be destroyed by the heat. For five rows, each 
 five yards long, one pint of seed will be enough in early sowings, 
 and a quarter of a pint more for late sowings. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, 
 are hardy, and may be planted quite early, indeed should be to 
 secure crops, as they do not readily support heat. Nos. 4 to 11, 
 inclusive, are known as dwarf or bush Beans. The earliest is No. 
 4. Nos. 5, 6, and 11, are much esteemed kinds. They may be 
 planted for the first and successive crops from the middle of spring 
 till the close of summer. The usual mode of culture is in rows, 
 two or three in a clump, at intervals of ten to twelve inches. 
 The runners require poles. Nos. 12 and 13 are tender, and 12 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. Ill 
 
 particularly so, and should not be planted till the close of spring. 
 They may be forwarded by sprouting them in a hot-bed, and trans- 
 planting them at the proper time. No. 18 is an excellent snap 
 short, or may be shelled when more advanced. 
 
 When desired to be produced between the rows of cabbages or 
 kale, it will be found to be more convenient to sow the seed in a 
 warm border, and transplant them when about two inches high. 
 They should be liberally watered at the time of planting, as well 
 as on any subsequent occasion when they may require it. In se- 
 lecting a spot to plant Beans, choose where the soil is light and 
 tolerably dry. If it be poor, apply a good dressing of well-rotted 
 manure, either spread over the entire surface, or placed in the 
 drills when drawn out. 
 
 BEETS. 
 
 1. Extra Early Turnip-rooted. 4. Swiss Chard. 
 
 2. Early Turnip-rooted Red. 5. Silesian, or Sugar. 
 
 3. Long Blood-red. 6. Mangel Wurtzel. 
 
 The seed should be sown the middle of spring, in deep, rich, and 
 well-manured ground, in drills eighteen inches apart, and from 
 eight to ten inches apart in the rows. Two or three seed should 
 be put in each place, about half an inch deep. When the plants 
 are two or three inches high, the weaker should be drawn out, leav- 
 ing but one remaining in each space. Nos. 1, 2, and 3, are esteem- 
 ed the best for table use. No. 1 is very early, light colored, and 
 valuable as the earliest in the season. No. 2 is somewhat earlier 
 than No. 3, equally good for winter use, and may be sown in drills 
 from early in the spring till the commencement of summer. The 
 leaves of No. 4 are used as Spinach, the mid-rib of the leaf as As- 
 paragus, and is cultivated as the common Beet, but requires more 
 room. Beets may be transplanted, and will attain to a very good 
 size. To preserve for winter use, the roots should be taken up in 
 autumn, the leaves cut off within a quarter of an inch of the crown, 
 the roots exposed to the sun for a week or more, and then put 
 away in some dry place, or packed in sand. 
 
112 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 BORECOLE. 
 1. Dwarf German Greens, or Kale. 2. Scotch Kale. 
 Under the head of Borecole is usually classed a large variety 
 of the cabbage tribe, known as different kinds of Kale, but very 
 distinct in appearance and modes of growth. No. 1 is an excel- 
 lent green for winter and spring use. Being dwarf, it is easily 
 preserved during severe weather. Sow early in autumn in good 
 ground, either broadcast or in drills, and treat as described for 
 Winter Spinach. Sow No. 2 in seed-bed middle of spring, and 
 transplant and treat as directed for Winter Cabbage. This variety 
 of Borecole is of upright growth, and not so well adapted for se- 
 vere climates as No. 1. 
 
 BROCOLI. 
 
 1. Purple Cape. 3. Sulphur. 
 
 2. Large Early White. 4. Walcheren. 
 
 The Brocoli produce heads like Cauliflower, in autumn. No. 1 
 appears to be the best adapted to our climate. It is the only 
 one to be relied on. Sow in seed-bed middle of spring, and trans- 
 plant to very rich ground when eight to twelve inches high, and 
 manage generally as usual with Winter Cabbage. 
 
 BRUSSEL'S SPROUTS. 
 
 This vegetable is cultivated for the small heads, which spring in 
 considerable numbers from the main stem. Much esteemed in 
 some parts of Europe, but here it has not received the attention it 
 merits. The plant rises up with a very long stem, which has a 
 spreading open head at the top, but which sends out from its sides 
 great numbers of little cabbages, each being of the size of a large 
 walnut. The large leaves should be broken off very early in 
 autumn, in order to give the little cabbages room to grow. In 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 113 
 
 November, these begin to be in perfection, and continue an excel- 
 lent vegetable throughout the winter. Much care is required' in 
 the saving of the seed of this plant. To effect which, the crown 
 should be cut off, and the seed-stems and flowers allowed to come 
 out nowhere but from the little cabbages themselves. It is most 
 likely owing to negligence in this respect, that we scarcely ever 
 see such a thing as real Brussel's Sprouts. Sow in seed-bed mid- 
 dle of spring, and transplant and manage as with Winter Cabbage. 
 
 CABBAGE. 
 
 1. Early York, 5. Early Battersea, 
 
 Early Mai/. Early Drumhead. 
 
 Early Emperor. 6. Green Curled Savoy. 
 
 Early Heart-shaped. T. Large Drumhead Savoy. 
 
 Early Royal Dwarf. 8. Red Dutch, (for pickling.) 
 
 2. Landreth's Early York. 9. Large Late Drumhead. 
 
 3. Landreth's Large York. 10. Flat Dutch. 
 • 4. Early Sugar Loaf. 11. Bergen. 
 
 12. Green Glazed. 
 
 Cabbages will thrive well in any richly-manured soil, provided 
 it is not too dry. A stiff clayey soil is more suitable for them than 
 a sandy or gravelly one, though the autumn and winter crops may 
 probably succeed better when planted in a soil of the latter descrip- 
 tion, as those seasons of the year are generally wet. In summer, 
 the plants will arrive at maturity sooner in such soils, though they 
 be much smaller. The time for sowing the seed is very important, 
 and should be regulated according to the time the crop is wanted. 
 No. 1 is the earliest. Nos. 2, 3, and 4, follow in quick succession. 
 Those named as varieties of No. 1 are so nearly alike, that it is 
 difficult to point out the difference. Nos. 2 and 3 are valuable va- 
 rieties, of larger growth than No. 1, not quite so early, but more 
 robust, and support the heat better. No. 7 is a desirable variety 
 for winter use, having the tenderness of the Savoy, with the size 
 and firmness of the Drumhead. Nos. 9, 10, and 11, are nearly 
 alike, each producing large hard heads, and are cultivated for the 
 winter supply. No dependance should be placed in imported Flat 
 Dutch or Drumhead Cabbage seed, as they seldom produce a good 
 
114 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 head. The early and summer varieties are usually sown in seed- 
 beds, early in autumn, protected therein, or in cold frames during 
 winter, and transplanted early in the spring. Where the climate 
 is mild, and the land light and dry, they are planted out in the 
 autumn, in which case they head earlier than those put out in the 
 spring. Should a supply of plants not have been obtained in au- 
 tumn, sow in hot-bed very early in spring, or somewhat later on a 
 warm border in the open air. It should be borne in mind that, in 
 no case, can fine Cabbage, and especially the earlier kinds, be had 
 unless planted in heavily manured and well-tilled land. Heavy or 
 strong loamy soils is best adapted to this crop, though deep tillage 
 and strong manure will produce good heads on almost any soil The 
 autumn and winter varieties should be sown in seed-beds from the 
 middle to the end of spring, and transplanted early in summer. 
 To have these kinds head early in the autumn, as a succession 
 crop, sow at the same time with the early sorts. 
 
 The Cabbage-fly is frequently so voracious as to destroy the 
 young plants the moment they appear above ground. A solution 
 of tobacco frequently sprinkled over them, or air-slacked lime 
 dusted on the leaves when damp, is sometimes effectual. Another 
 method is to dust the plants when damp with a mixture composed 
 of soot and ashes in equal parts. A solution of whale-oil soap, 
 sprinkled over the plants, have resulted favorably. A weak solu- 
 tion of common brown or soft-soap would perhaps answer, where 
 the former was not obtainable. 
 
 To preserve the heads during winter, bury the stalks and part 
 of the head with earth, and, if the weather be very severe, sprinkle 
 straw over the same. When the crop has been cut, if the ground 
 be not immediately wanted, the stalks should be permitted to stand 
 till a crop of sprouts be obtained. Where the ground is required 
 for another crop, they may be taken up with balls of earth to the 
 roots and planted in a trench in any spare corner of the garden, at 
 half a foot apart, always observing to deprive them of all their old 
 leaves as soon as the head is cut off, that the young sprouts may 
 receive additional nourishment. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 115 
 
 CARDOON. 
 Large Solid Stalked. 
 The tender stalks of the inner leaves, rendered white and deli- 
 cate by earthing up, are used for stewing, and for soups and salad 
 in autumn and winter. The seed should be sown early in the 
 spring, and, when one year old, transplanted to permanent posi- 
 tions, allowing each plant a space of two or three feet square. 
 
 CARROT. 
 
 1. Long Orange. 3. Altringham, or Field. 
 
 l\ Early Horn. 4. Large White, or Field. 
 
 In sowing Carrot seed, it will be proper to observe, that when 
 
 the ground has a disposition to be wet, or is apt to bind, it will be 
 
 found desirable to divide it into beds, four or five feet wide, with 
 
 narrow alleys about one foot wide between the same. The seed 
 
 should be raked in regularly, taking care not to draw the earth up 
 
 in heaps. The seed have numerous forked hairs on their borders, 
 
 by which they adhere, and should be well rubbed between the 
 
 hands, and mixed with dry sand, in order to separate them as 
 
 much as possible previously to sowing. Being very light, a quiet, 
 
 still day should be chosen for sowing. For forty feet of drill, a 
 
 quarter of an ounce is enough, and the same for a bed three feet 
 
 wide and eleven feet long. Nos. 1 and 2 are esteemed the better 
 
 kinds for table use. The Early Horn is an admirable variety, and 
 
 equally good for summer and winter use. Nos. 3 and 4 are grown 
 
 for stock. Though No. 1 is probably as good for that purpose, it 
 
 does not grow quite so large as No. 4, but is more nutritious. 
 
 For domestic use, sow early in spring in drills, in deeply dug and 
 
 well-manured ground. The drills should be twelve or eighteen 
 
 inches apart. When the plants are up a few inches high, weed 
 
 and thin them so as to stand at least six inches from each other, 
 
 except those intended for early use, which may be thinned by 
 
116 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 drawing the daily supply. To preserve for winter use, remove to 
 a cellar, or protect them where they stand. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER. 
 1. Early Asiatic. 2. Late Dutch. 
 
 The seed of the early varieties should be sown in seed-beds the 
 beginning of autumn, kept in a cold frame, protected from severe 
 frost during winter, and transplanted to very rich ground as soon 
 as frost ceases. When first put out, hand-glasses, or inverted 
 flower-pots, should be placed over the plants at night. The late 
 variety matures in autumn, and should be sown at the same time, 
 and managed the same as Cape Brocoli, which see. It is not, 
 however, so certain to succeed as the Brocoli, which it resembles 
 in quality, nor is a better vegetable when obtained. 
 
 CELERY. 
 
 1. White Solid. 3. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted. 
 
 2. Red Solid. 
 
 Early in the spring, prepare a small bed of light rich earth, in 
 a warm and moist situation, and convenient to water, in which sow 
 the seed for an early crop. Break the mould very fine, as the 
 seed is small, and rake the surface even. Sow the seed, but not 
 too thickly, and cover with light rich mould, about a quarter of an 
 inch deep. Give water freely in dry weather as the plants make 
 progress. The plants should be kept thin in the seed-bed, and 
 pricked out when fit upon the surface of fresh earth, well manured. 
 They should be watered and shaded until they take root; and, in 
 drawing from the seed-bed, let some of the strongest plants re- 
 main, to be put out for an early drill. They should be planted 
 out before they become too strong. If they have acquired a large 
 ball of earth and roots, these and the straggling leaves on the 
 sides should be cut away, in part, before planting out to remain. 
 The transplanting should be repeated at intervals of two or three 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GAKDEN MANUAL. 117 
 
 weeks, for a succession, until the necessary quantity be set out. 
 It is not prudent to surcharge the beds with manure, which some- 
 times burns the plants. A safer plan is to put a part on the sur- 
 face, around the plants, which, in the course of tillage, becomes 
 incorporated with the soil. For the autumnal crop, the white is 
 superior in flavor, but the red is better calculated for standing 
 through the winter. If long and hard frost be apprehended, a 
 sufficient quantity for domestic use should be taken up and placed 
 in a bed of sand or light earth, in a shed or cellar. When the 
 grouud is deeply frozen, it is sometimes impossible to get it out 
 without tearing it to pieces. It may be kept very well for several 
 weeks in a cellar. To save the seed of Celery, take one or two 
 plants in the spring out of the ridge that stands last and replant it 
 in an open place, and they will furnish seed sufficient for several 
 years. 
 
 Particular attention should be paid to earthing up Celery. The 
 soil should be dry, or it is apt to rot the plants and render them 
 unfit for use. As the plants advance in growth, blanch by earth- 
 ing up gradually. That intended for late winter and spring use, 
 had better not be blanched preparatory to being laid up. 
 
 CHERVIL. 
 
 This vegetable is used in soups and salads, and cultivated after 
 the manner of Parsley. When wanted for summer use, sow in 
 narrow drills early in the spring, and late in summer for the au- 
 tumn and winter supply. 
 
 CORN SALAD, OR LAMB'S LETTUCE. 
 
 Used as a small salad throughout the winter and spring. Sow 
 thickly in drills first of autumn, and sprinkle with straw on the 
 approach of severe weather. 
 
118 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 CRESS. 
 Cnrled, or Pepper-grass. Broad-leaved Garden. 
 
 Used as a small salad. Sow very thickly in shallow drills on a 
 smooth surface, at short intervals throughout the season, and cut 
 before it comes into rough leaf. 
 
 CRESS, WATER. 
 
 A running stream of clear water is essential to the cultivation 
 of this popular salad. The plants should be inserted in rows, in 
 the bed of a stream, and in the direction of the current. The bed 
 should be taken up -and replanted occasionally, and the plants kept 
 free from mud and other extraneous matters. When the plants 
 begin to grow in water one inch and a half deep, they soon check 
 the current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches 
 above the plants, which is considered the most favorable circum- 
 stance in which they can be placed. After they have been cut 
 about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener they 
 are cut the better. No other plants, and especially the Sium 
 nodiflordm, a poisonous plant resembling the Water Cress, should 
 be permitted to find their way into the bed. The beds should be 
 laid dry two or three times a year, to permit weeds and decayed 
 parts to be removed, and vacancies to be filled. 
 
 CUCUMBER. 
 
 1. Early Frame, or Table, 2. Long Green, or Turkey. 
 
 Short Prickly. 3. Gherkin, (for pickling.) 
 
 For early use, plant in hills, on a warm border, the latter end 
 of spring, and for a succession crop, on an open compartment. 
 For pickles, plant middle of summer, and manage as usual with 
 the early kind. No. 1 is a short prickly variety, quite early, and 
 productive. No. 2 is the best of the long varieties, principally 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 119 
 
 used for pickling, though many prefer it for slicing. No. 3 is 
 used altogether for pickles, and cultivated in the ordinary manner. 
 Previous to planting, a shovel full of well-rotted manure should be 
 placed in each hill ; after which, four or five seed may he sown 
 half an inch deep. One ounce of seed is sufficient for two hundred 
 hills. When attacked by the fly, if soot, powdered charcoal, or 
 tobacco dust, be sprinkled over the plants, it will generally serve 
 to check their ravages. When the plants have made a growth 
 of two or three inches, they should be thinned to two or three in a 
 hill, the ground carefully hoed, and the earth drawn up around 
 them. The ground should be kept free fr*>m weeds, and in very 
 dry weather, the plants watered occasionally in the evening. 
 
 CHIVES, OR CIVES. 
 
 A small species of Onion, growing in large tufts. Propagated 
 by offsets, and planted in either spring or autumn, in rows ten or 
 twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in 
 the rows. 
 
 EGG-PLANT. 
 1. Large Purple. 2. Early Purple. 
 
 The seed of the Egg-plant must be sown in a hot-bed, early in 
 the spring, and the sashes kept down close until the plants come 
 up ; after which, a little air should be given in the heat of the day. 
 The latter end of spring, if settled warm weather, the plants may 
 be set out, about two feet apart, in a rich, warm piece of ground. 
 If kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their stems when 
 about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. The seed 
 do not vegetate freely, and repeated sowing are sometimes ne- 
 cessary. As Egg-plants will not grow in the open ground until 
 settled warm weather, and are frequently destroyed by frost when 
 planted too early, it will be found advisable to transplant them 
 
120 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 into small pots, and placed in a frame until frost has ceased, when 
 they may be turned out and planted, with the balls of earth un- 
 broken. In which case, they will soon take root and grow freely. 
 
 ENDIVE. 
 
 1. Curled, 2. Broad-leaved, 
 
 Green and White curled. Batavian, or Scarolle 
 
 The proper season for the sowing of Endive is the latter end 
 of spring. If sown much earlier, it generally runs off to seed. 
 Sow the seed about half an inch deep, in drills eighteen inches 
 apart, and press the earth down closely upon the same. When 
 the plants are up, they should be thinned to eighteen inches apart 
 in the rows, so that they will stand throughout the bed at eighteen 
 inches from each other. The plants which are drawn, if wanted, 
 should be transplanted into good ground, the same distance apart, 
 and immediately watered. When the plants have attained a mod- 
 erate size, they must undergo the process of blanching, which is 
 performed as follows : Gather the whole plant up in your hands in 
 a conical form, and tie it round with matting, which should go 
 several times round the plant, causing it to end so pointedly at the 
 top as to prevent the rain or dew from penetrating to the interior. 
 Particular care should be observed, in blanching the plants, that 
 the leaves are perfectly dry; otherwise, corruption is apt to ensue, 
 and the plants entirely spoiled. The great difficulty with Endive 
 is to have it for winter use; for, though it is hardy, it will rot 
 if kept tied up too long. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH. 
 
 To have this plant fine and in profusion, all that is necessary is 
 to select, early in the spring, straight young roots, two or three 
 inches long, and plant them one foot apart each way, in rich, 
 moderately dry, loose soil, keeping the ground hoed and free from 
 weeds. On the arrival of cold weather, remove such as may be 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 121 
 
 required for winter use to some sheltered place, or cover them 
 with litter as they stand, that they may not be frozen in. 
 
 INDIAN CORN. 
 
 1. Sweet, or Sugar. 4. White Flint, (early and late.) 
 
 2. Early Canada. 5. Cooper's Prolific. 
 
 3. Early York, 6. Tuscarora. 
 
 Adam's Early. *l. White Flour. 
 
 The early varieties of Corn intended for boiling when young, 
 should be planted the middle of spring, in hills four feet apart, or 
 in drills. A shovel full of well-rotted manure should be placed in 
 each hill, before the seed are planted, and after the plants are up 
 stroug, scatter a handful of wood-ashes around each hill. The 
 ground should be dug deeply between the rows when the plants 
 are about eighteen inches high. No. 1 is the best table Corn. 
 Nos. 2 and 3 are the earliest. No. 5 is a productive kind for farm 
 culture. To grow No. 1 of large size, and in full perfection, the 
 ground should be in good condition and recently manured. For a 
 succession crop, plant the latter end of spring. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 
 This plant may be readily propagated by cutting the roots into 
 sets, with two eyes each, and planting them, early in spring, in 
 the same manner as Potatoes. To have them in perfection, they 
 should be hoed frequently, and the ground kept loose around 
 them. Care should be taken to gather them out clean when dig- 
 ging for use, as the smallest particle left will grow and encumber 
 the ground, without producing a crop worth standing. 
 
 LEEK. 
 Large London, — Scotch, or Flag. 
 The seed should be sown as early in the spring as the weather 
 and the ground will permit, in drills of fine earth, about an inch 
 
122 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 deep, and of a sufficient distance apart to admit of a small hoe. 
 Keep the ground clean and loose around the plants, and trans- 
 plant the middle of summer, in good ground, in rows twelve 
 inches apart, and the plants five or six inches distant from each 
 other. After the plants have taken root, they should be fre- 
 quently hoed and kept free from weeds. When desired to have 
 Leeks blanched, they should be planted in drills, three or four 
 inches deep. As the plants grow, draw up to their sides the 
 earth which came' out of the drills. This should be repeated at 
 intervals until each plant has attained a sufficient size for use. 
 Leeks will stand the winter without protection, but, as a provision 
 against hard frost, some should be taken up and packed in earth 
 or sand, in some dry place, for winter use. Two or three plants 
 which have stood the winter should be left to produce seed, which 
 will ripen early in autumn. One ounce of seed will be sufficient 
 for a bed four feet wide and twelve feet long. 
 
 LETTUCE. 
 
 1. Early Curled, or Cut Salad. 5. Philadelphia Cabbage. 
 
 2. Early Cabbage, 6. Curled India, or Ice. 
 
 Butter Lettuce. "7. White Cos. 
 
 3. Brown Dutch. 8. Green Cos. 
 
 4. Royal Cabbage, 9. Palestine. 
 
 Drumhead. — Imperial. 
 Grand Admiral. 
 
 The kinds enumerated are perhaps more numerous than need 
 be cultivated, and the same variety has frequently so many local 
 names, it is difficult to designate them. No. 1 is used as a small 
 salad, and should be sown very thickly, on a smooth surface, early 
 in the spring. Nos. 2 and 3 are good sorts, of about equal merit. 
 Nos. 4 and 5 succeed Nos. 2 and 3, and produce large firm heads. 
 No. 6 is a valuable variety, and stands the heat well. Nos. 7 and 
 8 are very crisp and tender, but soon shoot to seed. To have fine 
 head Lettuce, the seed should be sown, in seed-bed, from the first 
 to the middle of autumn. Protect the plants by a cold frame, or 
 with litter, as they stand in the ground, and transplant early in 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 123 
 
 the spring into rich ground. For a large supply, sow in drills, 
 from time to time, during spring and summer, and when up a few 
 inches high, thin out the plants to twelve inches distance from 
 each other every way. For this purpose Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are the 
 best varieties. Lettuce may be blanched as directed for Endive. 
 One-eighth of an ounce of seed will be sufficient for a bed three 
 feet wide and seven feet long, and will produce between two and 
 three hundred plants. 
 
 MELON, OR CANTELEUP. 
 
 1. Green Citron. 6. Large Musk. 
 
 2. Pine Apple. 1. Christiana. 
 
 3. Nutmeg. 8. Hunter, 
 
 4. Skilluian's Fine Netted. Hooscinee Cantelmp. 
 
 5. Large Yellow Canteleup. 9. Turk's Cap Citron. 
 
 Melons should be planted the latter end of spring, in well-ma- 
 nured and deep-dug ground. Mark it out into squares of six feet 
 every way, and at the angle of every square dig a hole twelve 
 inches deep and eighteen inches in diameter, into which place old 
 rotted manure to the depth of six inches, and four inches of soil 
 over the same, and incorporate both well together with the spade. 
 Draw the soil over the mixture so as to form a circular hill about 
 a foot broad at top, and sow in each hill six or eight seed, about 
 two inches apart from each other, and cover about half an inch 
 deep. When the plants commence producing their rough leaves, 
 they should be thinned to two or three in a hill, and have the 
 earth drawn up, from time to time, as high about the roots of the 
 plants as the seed-leaves. As soon as the plants spread into 
 branches, the top of the first runner-bud should be pinched off, 
 which will greatly strengthen the plants and enable them to per- 
 fect their fruit early. The ground should be kept free from weeds 
 by frequent hoeings. No. 1 is roughly netted, flesh melting, very 
 sweet, and high flavored. No. 2 is of medium size, rough netted, 
 and flesh thick, firm, juicy, and sweet. No. 3 is somewhat larger 
 and more globular, flesh green, and very highly scented. No. 4 
 
124 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 is a small, rough-netted variety, with green flesh, very thick, 
 firm, sugary, and of the most delicious fragrance, and the earliest 
 of the green-fleshed varieties. No. 5 is slightly ribbed, netted, 
 good sized, and musk-flavored. Flesh salmon-colored, and earlier 
 than the green varieties. No. 6 is deeply ribbed, musk flavored, 
 early and productive. Flesh thick, and light salmon-colored. A 
 large variety, and used when green for mangoes. No. 7 is some 
 ten days earlier than No. 3, but not equal in flavor, though an ex- 
 cellent variety. No. 8 is an esteemed variety, very large, and 
 of fine flavor. No. 9 is a variety of No. 3, and is perhaps the 
 best of its class. In order to have Melons in good perfection, the 
 different varieties should be planted remote from each other, and 
 also from Cucumbers, Gourds, Pumpkins, and Squashes, or degen- 
 erency will be the consequence. In saving the seed of the Melon, 
 the fruit should be cut crosswise, and the seed taken from the 
 vine end. If taken when the fruit is just ripe, they will be found 
 to be less impregnated than those saved by the ordinary method. 
 
 WATER-MELON. 
 
 1. Mountain Sprout, 3. Long Island. 
 
 Long Carolina. 4. Citron, (for preserves.) 
 
 2. Spanish. 5. New Orange. 
 
 To have Water-melons in good perfection, they should be sown 
 in very rich, light soil. Prepare, plant, and manage in every 
 respect as directed for the others, only let the hills be seven or 
 eight feet distant each way. One ounce of seed will plant from 
 forty to fifty hills. No. 1 is a large, long striped variety, with 
 bright scarlet flesh and drab-colored seed. A fine and desirable 
 variety. No. 2 has scarlet flesh and black seed. It is smaller 
 than some of the other varieties, but has a very thin rind and a 
 rich sugary flavor. No. 3 has red flesh and grey seed, and is 
 earlier than either of the above. No. 4 has white and solid flesh 
 and red seed, uniformly round and smooth, striped and marbled 
 with light green, and cultivated for preserving. No. 5 has red 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 125 
 
 flesh, of medium quality, and short thick seed. The rind may be 
 taken off like that of an orange. 
 
 MUSHROOM. 
 
 About the end of summer, take some stable manure that is not 
 fresh and fiery, and throw it up into a compact heap to ferment. 
 Early in autumn, when the manure is sufficiently fermented, and 
 has lost all the disagreeable effluvia, mark out a bed three or four 
 feet wide, in any dry, warm situation. The length must be regu- 
 lated according to the quantity intended to grow. A shed with a 
 southern aspect would be a very eligible place for a bed. The 
 manure must be well shaken up; and, if long, should bo beaten 
 well, and drawn in, by degrees, until it assumes the shape of the 
 roof of a house. It must not only be beaten at the top, as it is 
 gradually carried up, but should be beaten at the sides; for it is 
 there that the bed should be perfectly even and firm. Having, in 
 this manner, finished the bed, it must be protected, not only from 
 the rains, but from the sun, by covering it over with long straw, 
 thatch, or moss, for it must be neither too wet nor too dry. It 
 should remain in this state for about a week, or until the fermen- 
 tation has moderated to about blood heat. Then put on a layer 
 of strong, rich, fresh mould, about two inches thick, in which 
 holes must be made about eight inches apart every way. Into 
 each of these holes place some little pieces of the spawn of mush- 
 rooms, which must be covered over with a layer of mould about 
 an inch in thickness, and beaten down smoothly with a spade. 
 The covering of straw, or matting, must still be kept over the bed, 
 for it must not be exposed immoderately to either the sun or the 
 rain. Success now greatly depends on the proper moisture of the 
 bed. In summer, the covering should occasionally be taken off, to 
 admit of gentle showers falling upon it. In very dry seasons, it 
 should be gently watered with lukewarm water. The spawn must 
 be dry, with a pleasant odor, like a fresh Mushroom ; not advanced 
 into white threads, similar to the spawn which is collected in the 
 
126 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 fields, but having a small spotted whitish appearance. In about a 
 month, the young mushrooms will begin to appear, when, if the 
 clay appears dry, and the weather mild, a liberal supply of tepid 
 water should be given. In fine weather, the covering should be 
 taken off for a few hours, which has a tendency to keep the bed in 
 a healthy state. Should the weather be cold, a few minutes will 
 be sufficient. The covering must, in all cases, be regulated ac- 
 cording to the temperature of the atmosphere. 
 
 To make Mushroom spawn : To any portion of fresh horse ma- 
 nure, mixed with short litter, add one-third of cow manure, with 
 a small quantity of mould to cement it. Mash the whole into a 
 thin compost, and spread it on the floor of an open shed until it 
 becomes firm enough to make flat square bricks. Which being 
 done, set them on edge and frequently turn until half dry, when 
 make two small holes in each brick, and insert a piece of good old 
 spawn the size of a walnut in each hole. The bricks should then 
 remain until they are dry. This being completed, level the sur- 
 face of a piece of ground, (if the floor of a shed or house be not 
 convenient,) three feet wide and of length sufficient to receive the 
 bricks, on which lay a bottom of dry horse manure six inches 
 thick. Place the bricks in rows, one upon another, the spawned 
 side being uppermost. Cover with a sufficient quantity of warm 
 horse manure to effuse a gentle heat through the whole. When 
 the spawn has spread itself throughout every portion of the bricks, 
 the process is ended, when they should be laid up in a dry place 
 for use. Spawn made in this manner, if well dried before spring, 
 will preserve its properties for many years. 
 
 MUSTARD. 
 White. Black. 
 
 The seed of each variety should be sown the middle of spring, 
 in shallow drills of clean rich ground, and covered with a light, 
 thin layer of fine mould. For a fall salad, sow the beginning 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL 127 
 
 of autumn. Due precaution should be taken to protect the seed 
 from the ravages of birds. The white variety is much esteemed 
 as a medicine, and from the seed of the brown variety is manufac- 
 tured the condiment in daily use. 
 
 NASTURTIUM, OR INDIAN CRESS. 
 
 The flowers and young leaves of this plant are used as salad. 
 The seed-pods are gathered when green and tender and pickled as 
 a substitute for capers. The seed should be sown from the middle 
 to the end of spring, in drills about an inch deep. If support be 
 given them on which they can climb, they will prove more produc- 
 tive than when suffered to trail on the ground. 
 
 ONION. 
 
 1. Silver Skinned, or White. 3. Large Red Wethersfield- 
 
 2. Large Yellow Strasburg. 
 
 In order to insure a good crop of Onions, the ground should be 
 well prepared by digging in a plentiful supply of old and strong 
 manure, very early in the spring. The sooner this be done the 
 better. Sow the seed the middle of spring, moderately thick in 
 drills one inch deep, and twelve inches apart. When the plants 
 are up three inches high, thin them to three inches, and after- 
 wards, for the daily supply, to eight inches apart. The beds 
 should be carefully weeded, care being taken not to disturb the 
 earth much er raise it round the plants, which will prevent them 
 forming their bulbs properly. When the leaves begin to loose 
 their color, lay down the crop by bending the stems down flat, just 
 above the bulb. This process will check the growth of the stem, 
 and afford nourishment to the bulb. Onions should be taken up 
 the first of autumn, spread thinly on the ground, and turned over 
 once or twice a day until thoroughly dried, and then stored away 
 in any dry, airy situation. If spread thickly, they must still be 
 turned occasionally, or they may be strung or hung up in nets. 
 
128 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 Seed Onions are generally planted in the spring, in shallow drills, 
 fourteen inches apart, but will survive the winter, and yield better 
 by being planted in autumn, if slightly covered with litter, long 
 manure, or leaves. Onions are an exception to the general rule 
 of never cropping the same ground successively with the same 
 crop, as they succeed any number of years if the ground be kept 
 highly manured. Nos. 1 and 2 are esteemed varieties. The latter 
 keep best, though not so delicately flavored as the former. No. 3 
 is grown extensively in the eastern States, where it matures the 
 first season. 
 
 OKRA. 
 
 This vegetable is used extensively in soups and stews. It is 
 highly nutritious, and deemed very wholesome. Sow the seed late 
 in spring, in hills two or three feet apart, and two or three seed in 
 each, — or in drills, three feet apart, and eight or ten inches between 
 the same. The seed are liable to rot in the ground, and should be 
 sown thickly to secure the requisite quantity of plants. Very rich 
 ground should be selected for its culture. 
 
 PARSLEY. 
 Curled, or Double. Plain, or Single. 
 
 Soak the seed a few hours in warm water, and sow very early 
 in the spring, in drills an inch deep, and one foot apart. If cov- 
 ered with straw or the branches of evergreens, it may be preserved 
 through the winter. 
 
 PARSNIP. 
 
 Sugar, — Hollow Crowned, or Capped. — Lisbonaise. 
 
 Sow the seed from the first to the middle of spring, in deeply- 
 dug and well-manured ground, in drills, one inch deep and four- 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 120 
 
 teen inches apart. When the plants are up two or three inches 
 high, thin them to stand six or eight inches apart in the rows. 
 A quarter of an ounce of seed is sufficient for a bed four feet wide 
 and twelve feet long. The beds should be kept free from weeds, 
 and frequently hoed through the summer. In autumn they will 
 be fit for use. The Parsnip will stand the frost without injury, 
 and are benefited thereby; for, after being frozen, their flavor is 
 greatly improved. 
 
 PEAS. 
 
 1. Landreth's Extra Early. 7. Large White Marrowfat 
 
 2. Early Frame, 8. Peruvian Black-eye Marrowfat. 
 
 Early Washington. 9. Knight's Dwarf Marrowfat. 
 
 Early May. " 10. Knight's Tall Marrowfat. 
 
 3. Early Charlton, 11. Matchless Marrowfat. 
 
 Golden Hotspur. 12. Blue Prussian. 
 
 4. Bishop's Dwarf Prolific. 13. Dwarf Sugar, or Eat-pod 
 
 5. Dwarf Blue Imperial. 14. Tall Sugar, or Eat-pod. 
 
 6. Royal Dwarf Marrowfat. 
 
 Peas should be sown as early in the spring as the ground will 
 permit, in a warm dry situation, and covered about three inches 
 deep. They are the most productive in a light, but rich soil, but 
 may be grown, with care, upon almost any soil if it be well ma- 
 nured and drained if inclined to be wet. Peas should be sown in 
 double rows, nine inches from each other, as much ground will be 
 saved by this method, and they only require half the number 
 of stakes as they would when sown in single rows. The seed 
 should be sown moderately thick, to allow for the depredations 
 of insects or vermin, and having been covered, tread the surface 
 of the soil lightly. As soon as the tendrils appear, stakes should 
 be placed along the rows, from four to seven feet high, according 
 to the growth of the different varieties. No. 2 is an excellent va- 
 riety, but some ten days later than No. 1. No. 3 is a productive 
 variety and succeeds No. 2. No. 5 is a luscious variety, and gen- 
 erally much esteemed. Nos. 6, 7, 8, and 12 are very productive, 
 and when sown at the same time with the early varieties, form an 
 9 
 
130 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 uninterrupted succession. The first plantings should be made as 
 soon as the ground can be worked, and for a regular succession, 
 sow at short intervals during the spring and early part of summer. 
 
 PEPPER. 
 
 1. Large Sweet, Bell-shaped, 3. Cayenne, or Long. 
 
 2. Tomato, or Flat. 
 
 Sow late in spring or first of summer, in drills, on a warm bor- 
 der, and when up three inches high, thin them to stand eighteen 
 inches apart. They may be be sown early in the spring, in a hot- 
 bed, and transplanted as soon as frost has ceased. Nos. 1 and 2 
 are principally used for pickling when green. The first is quite 
 mild and attains a large size. No. 3 is usually ground, when ripe 
 and dried, for table use, though the green pods are also pickled. 
 One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. 
 
 POTATO. 
 
 1. Fox's Seedling. 3. Foxite. 
 
 2. Walnut-leared. 4. Mercer. 
 
 The best soil for Potatoes is a rich, sandy loam, for they will 
 not prosper on stiff, heavy, clayey, or wet soils. From the middle 
 to the end of spring is the time for planting the general crop ; but 
 if planted the beginning of spring, a very good crop may be ob- 
 tained, without being liable to injury from frost, which frequently 
 occurs with those that are planted earlier. In planting cut Pota- 
 toes, take care to have two good eyes in each set. The small 
 Potatoes should be deprived of the sprout or nose end, as a redun- 
 dancy of eyes exhaust the set and produce weak plants. The sets 
 .should not be planted until a week after being cut, in order to 
 afford them time to dry. Plant in drills, four or five inches deep, 
 and about thirty inches apart. The sets may be dropped six or 
 eight inches apart. When uncut Potatoes are used for seed, all 
 the eyes but one ought to be scooped out, and should be planted 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 131 
 
 at greater distances, in order to give room for the plants to get 
 light and air. The eyes or buds nearest the root fibre sprout a 
 week or more later than those furthest from it. In planting out 
 sets, therefore, the two sorts of eyes should be planted in separate 
 rows. Potatoes for planting are always found to answer best 
 when procured from a different soil, as they seem to like a change 
 of food. The ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come 
 up, and as they progress in growth, the space between the roots 
 ought to be well dug, to loosen the soil and encourage the spread- 
 ing of the roots. When six inches high, the soil should be 
 drawn up to the stem, so as to cover the Potatoes at the surface 
 from the light, which turns them green and acrid, and to permit 
 the air to penetrate to the roots the farthest spread. Another 
 hoeing will be afterwards necessary, to keep the vines from falling 
 down. The withering of the plants point out the proper time for 
 digging up the crop. If any be dug before those symptoms ap- 
 pear, they ought not to be exposed to the sun, which will render 
 them acrid and injure their flavor. Potatoes intended to be 
 eaten, cannot, probably, be too ripe. Such, however, as are in- 
 tended for seed, should not be allowed to become too ripe, as, in 
 that case, they are more subject to the disease called the curl, and 
 which is often very detrimental to the crop. 
 
 POTATO, SWEET, 
 Yellow. Red. 
 
 Sweet Potatoes should be planted whole, the middle of spring, 
 in a hot-bed, three or four inches deep, and about the same dis- 
 tance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. 
 When these are three inches above ground, separate them from 
 the Potato, which, if suffered to remain, will produce more sprouts 
 for a successive planting. Transplant them into rich light soil, 
 in rows four feet distant, and the plants about a foot apart in the 
 rows, or in hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until 
 the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow 
 
132 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 freely. In sandy ground, it will be found advisable to put a 
 shovel full of well-rotted manure to each plant. A moderate hot- 
 bed, five feet square, put down the middle of spring, with half a 
 peck of good sound Sweet Potatoes planted therein, will produce a 
 succession of sprouts which, if planted and managed as directed, 
 will yield about fifteen bushels of Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 PUMPKIN 
 
 1. Cashaw. 3. Mammoth. 
 
 2. Common Field, or Cheese. 
 
 Pumpkin seed should be sown the latter end of spring, in hills, 
 eight or ten feet apart, with two or three seed in a hill. They are 
 not so tenacious of a particular soil as either Melons or Cucum- 
 bers, but in other respects are cultivated in the same manner. 
 
 RADISH. 
 
 1. Long Scarlet Short-top. 6. Summer White. 
 
 2. Long Salmon. 7. White Spanish, 
 
 3. White Turnip-rooted. Fall, or Winter Black. 
 
 4. Red Turnip-rooted, 8. Black Spanish, 
 
 Cherry. Fall, or Winter White. 
 
 5. Yellow Turnip-rooted, 
 
 Yellow Summer. 
 
 The two first named are not very dissimilar. No. 1 is gener- 
 ally preferred for its brilliancy of color, though No. 2 is the most 
 brittle, and of course the best. Nos. 3 and 4 are excellent varie- 
 ties and early. The first four named are generally used for the 
 earlier sowings, which should be made on a sheltered border, as 
 soon in the spring as the ground can be worked. The soil should 
 be well manured, deeply dug, and raked free from clods and 
 stones. Sow the seed broadcast and rake in evenly, or in drills, 
 about one inch deep, and a foot apart. If cold weather return 
 after the seed have sprouted, protect by branches of evergreens, 
 straw, &c, which should be removed so soon as it may be pru- 
 dent. Nos. 5 and 6 are better adapted to the summer than the 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 133 
 
 preceding, which, in warm dry weather, soon become tough and 
 sticky. For an uninterrupted succession, sow these varieties at 
 the same time with the earlier kinds. Nos. 7 and 8 are grown 
 for winter use, and should be sown at close of summer or early in 
 autumn, and when ripe, stored away in some dry place, free from 
 frost. For a bed three feet wide and nine feet long, one ounce 
 of seed will be sufficient for spring varieties, and three-quarters 
 of an ounce for autumn and winter varieties. 
 
 ROCAMBOLE. 
 
 The bulbs of the Rocambole is of a milder and better flavor, but 
 not so large, as the common Garlic. The seed should be sown in 
 drills, shortly after they are ripe, or in the ensuing spring. They 
 must be kept clean of weeds; and, in autumn, may be taken up, 
 the offsets separated, and again planted, in rows twelve inches 
 apart, and six inches distant in the rows. 
 
 RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT. 
 
 The Rhubarb, of which there are several varieties, is cultivated 
 for the foot-stalk of the leaf, which possesses an agreeable acidity, 
 and resembles the gooseberry when made into pies or tarts. It is 
 fit for use before green fruit can be had, and is an excellent sub- 
 stitute. The seed should be sown early in spring, or late in au- 
 tumn, in a border with a northern exposure, and scatterd thinly in 
 drills, two inches deep, and one foot apart, and slightly covered 
 with soil. When the plants appear, they should be thinned out 
 to about six inches from each other, and afterwards to a foot. 
 The plants thinned out may be planted in a similar situation, if re- 
 quired. In this case, they must be taken up with care, so as not 
 to break the roots. As soon as the leaves are decayed, the seed- 
 ling plants should be taken up carefully and planted out in rows 
 two feet apart, and the same distance between the plants. When 
 
134 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 planted further apart, a great portion of ground will be wasted, as 
 they are not injured by being shaded by each other. Rhubarb 
 should be planted in a shady or northern situation, as their stems 
 will be finer and better when not too much exposed to the sun. 
 Any rich soil will grow Rhubarb, which will require an annual 
 top dressing of well-rotted manure. This should be applied in 
 the autumn ; for, during the winter, the nutriment which it con- 
 tains will be conveyed down to the roots by the rain, and it will 
 also cause the leaves to commence growing much earlier in the 
 spring. As seedling plants do not produce stems fit for use till 
 two years after the time of sowing, if plants are desired to be ob- 
 tained sooner than they can thus be brought into use, the old 
 plants may be taken up and separated into as many parts as there 
 are crowns or eyes, leaving a portion of the root to each. These 
 may be planted out when desired, and they will soon produce 
 stems sufficiently strong for any required purpose. On the ap- 
 proach of severe weather, seedling plants should be covered with 
 straw or the branches of evergreens, which must be removed early 
 in spring, and the ground well hoecl and cleared of weeds. 
 
 SALSIFY, OR OYSTER-PLANT. 
 
 The roots of this plant are boiled like Carrots, as a vegetable 
 dish, or, after being parboiled, made into cakes, with paste, and 
 fried like oysters, which they closely resemble in both taste and 
 flavor. The stalks of one year old are sometimes used in the 
 spring as Asparagus. The seed may be sown, from the first to 
 the middle of spring, in deep, rich loamy soil, moderately thick, 
 in drills, an inch deep and twelve inches apart When the plants 
 are two or three inches high, they should be thinned to the dis- 
 tance of six inches from each other, and afterwards hoed. The 
 ground should be kept clean and loose around the plants, by hoe- 
 ' ing, and in the autumn they will be fit for use. The roots may 
 be taken up late in autumn and secured in sand, or suffered to 
 remain out, and dug up when wanted. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 135 
 
 SCORZONERA, OR BLACK SALSIFY. 
 
 The roots of this vegetable are very palatable and nourishing, 
 and is principally used as an ingredient in soup. Some prefer it 
 to the common Oyster-plant. It is sometimes eaten like Carrots. 
 In which case, they should be deprived of their rind and immersed 
 in cold water for half an hour, or they will be bitter. They are 
 cultivated in the same manner as the preceding. 
 
 SCURVY GRASS. 
 
 Used as a small salad throughout the winter and spring. Sow 
 broadcast, or in shallow drills, early in autumn. Protect through 
 the winter by covering lightly with straw or the branches of ever- 
 greens. 
 
 SEA-KALE. 
 
 The soil most suitable to this plant is that which has a consid- 
 erable proportion of sand in its formation. In preparing the 
 ground for the seed, which should be sown as early in the spring 
 as the ground can be prepared, or the middle of autumn, dig it 
 deeply, and sow in drills an inch and a half deep, and sixteen 
 inches apart. The plants should be thinned out to the distance 
 of six or eight inches from each other in the rows, and kept clear 
 of weeds by frequent hoeings. When the plants are a year old, 
 every third row may be taken up, and also every other plant in 
 each row, leaving them eighteen inches apart, which may be 
 transplanted into good ground prepared as directed for Aspara- 
 gus. Plant two rows in each bed, about eighteen inches apart. 
 The better mode is to make two drills three inches deep, and in- 
 sert the plants about sixteen inches apart. When these drills are 
 filled, the crowns of Jhe plants will be covered nearly two inches, 
 
136 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 but they will soon push through the earth. New beds may be 
 formed with pieces of old roots, which should be cut into lengths 
 of about two inches, and planted the beginning of spring, three or 
 four inches deep, and sixteen inches apart. In autumn, spread 
 long stable-manure over the beds as a protection from extreme 
 frost. As soon as the frost is out of the ground, this may be 
 taken off, or if well rotted, dig some in around the plants. Early 
 in the spring, the crowns of the plants should be covered to the 
 depth of ten or twelve inches for blanching. This may be done 
 by placing over them a layer of dry sand or gravel, an inch thick, 
 and over each cluster of plants a blanching-pot, box, or anything 
 to exclude the light, pressing it firmly in the ground, an admis- 
 sion of air being injurious to both color and flavor. If the pots or 
 boxes used for this purpose be covered with fresh horse manure, 
 it will forward the shoots in growth, and make them sweeter and 
 more tender. When the plants have been covered three or four 
 weeks, they should be examined, and if the stalks have made a 
 growth of three or four inches, they may be cut. Care should be 
 taken not to injure the crowns by cutting the shoots too close. 
 If the beds are annually dug and manured, they will last many 
 years, and will prove very productive. 
 
 SHALLOT, OR ESCHALLOT. 
 
 This vegetable has a strong, but not unpleasant odor, and is 
 preferred by many to Onions for seasoning various dishes. It is 
 propagated by offsets, which should be planted out in autumn, in 
 rows twelve inches apart and six inches distant from each other. 
 If planted the latter end of summer, they will be fit for use the 
 1 nii Idle of spring. The bulbs should be taken up when full 
 grown, when the leaves begin to decay, and spread out to dry, in 
 some airy situation. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 137 
 
 SKIRRET. 
 
 The seed should be sown very early in the spring, in drills a 
 quarter of an inch deep, and twelve inches apart. It is also pro- 
 pagated by offsets, taken from the old roots, and planted very early 
 in the spring, before they begin to shoot. When the leaves begin 
 to decay, in autumn, the roots are fit for use, and continue so until 
 they commence sprouting in the spring. 
 
 SORREL. 
 
 Used as salad. Sow the seed the middle of spring, in shallow 
 drills, and thin the plants to twelve inches apart. 
 
 SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 
 1. Round Savoy-leaved. 2. Prickly Seed. 
 
 Spinach requires a richer soil than almost any other culinary 
 vegetable to bring it to perfection, as it has to yield frequent cut- 
 tings, and therefore requires a frequent developement of parts, 
 which cannot be expected without an abundance of food. The 
 seed may be sown broadcast, or in drills one foot apart. For 
 spring and early summer use, sow as early as the ground can be 
 worked. For the autumn supply, sow the close of summer. For 
 winter and early spring use, sow the middle of autumn. The lat- 
 ter sowing will need protection on the arrival of cold weather, and 
 should have a light covering of straw, or long manure, during 
 winter. When the autumnal sowings are made during hot, dry 
 weather, the seed is difficult to vegetate. No. 2 is the most hardy 
 and well adapted for autumn sowing. Both produce thick succu- 
 lent leaves of large size. The ground cannot be too rich for Spin- 
 ach. The stronger it is, the more succulent will be the leaves, 
 and, of course, the more delicate and tender. Careful weeding 
 
138 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 and hoeing up the earth, so as not to choke up the hearts of the 
 plants, are indispensable. One ounce of seed will be sufficient for 
 a bed five feet wide and twelve feet long, or half an ounce for the 
 same space if sown in drills. 
 
 SQUASH. 
 
 1. Early Bush, 3. Long Gr>en Crookneck. 
 
 Patty Pan. 4. Cocoa-nut, 
 
 2. Early Apple Bush, Valparaiso. 
 
 Egg. Porter. 
 
 Plant in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucumbers 
 and Melons, and cultivate in like manner. Nos. 1 and 2 are 
 of compact growth, and well adapted to small gardens. No. 2 is 
 particularly so, and a very early variety. No. 4 is used both as 
 a vegetable dish and for pies, and may be kept throughout the 
 winter. The Bush varieties should be planted three or four feet 
 distant, and the running sorts from six to nine, according to their 
 nature. Five or six seed should be planted in each hill, to guard 
 against accidents, and when the plants are out of danger, be 
 thinned to two or three in a hill. The summer varieties should 
 be gathered before the skin gets hard. The other varieties should 
 be permitted to ripen, and, when gathered, exposed to the sun and 
 air, in some dry situation, before stowed away. 
 
 TOMATO. 
 
 1. Large Red. 3. Pear-shaped. 
 
 2. Large Yellow. 4. Cherry. 
 
 For early use, sow very early in the spring, in a hot-bed, and 
 transplant when frost has ceased, in a warm border, three feet 
 apart. The ground should be hoed often and drawn up slightly 
 around the plants till one foot high. If the tops of the shoots be 
 pinched off just above the blossoms, the ripening of the fruit will 
 be hastened. For summer use, sow as soon as frost has ceased. 
 As the plants progress in growth, sticks or trellises should be pro- 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 
 
 139 
 
 vided, to which the plants should be trained in such manner as will 
 permit each portion to receive its due proportion of the sun. The 
 south side of a fence is an eligible situation for the early maturing 
 of the fruit. No. 1 is the variety usually preferred, the earliest 
 that grows to large size, and a great bearer. No. 2 is cultivated 
 principally for preserving. No. 3 is of small size and used for 
 pickling. No. 4 is a small, round variety, cultivated for pickling, 
 and very early. 
 
 TURNIP. 
 
 1. Early Flat Dutch. 
 
 2. Red-topped. 
 
 3. Early Stone. 
 
 4. Large Norfolk. 
 
 5. Large Globe. 
 
 6. Yellow Aberdeen, 
 
 Scotch Yellow. 
 
 7. Dale's Hybrid. 
 
 8. Ruta Baga, 
 
 'Sweedish. 
 
 The ground cannot be too rich for Turnips. Old sod, or newly- 
 cleared land, produces the largest and finest flavored sorts. The 
 best for family use, as well as for general culture, are Nos. 1 and 
 2, which resemble each other in all respects but color. They are 
 of quick growth, with small narrow leaves, and admit of standing 
 quite close together. They are quite distinct from, and superior 
 to, the common White and Red-top varieties usually cultivated. 
 For summer use, sow early in the spring, in drills twelve inches 
 apart, and thin to five inches. They are not, however, certain to 
 succeed at this season. For the main crop, sow at end of summer, 
 either broadcast or in drills. The largest crops are obtained by 
 the latter method. No. 3 is a good kind, but of slower growth 
 than either of the former. Nos. 4, 5, and 6 are robust kinds, and 
 are found well adapted to the South. No. 7 resembles No. 8 in 
 some respects, but is more delicately flavored, and much esteemed 
 for table use. No. 8 is more generally grown for stock than for 
 table use, but is excellent late in the spring, when the other kinds 
 have become pithy. At the North, the five last named should be 
 sown the middle of summer, while Nos. 1 and 2 frequently yield 
 abundant crops when sown the first of autumn. Turnips are 
 
140 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 affected in their form and flavor by soil, climate, and mode of cul- 
 ture. The sowings should always be made just before a rain, 
 if possible, for the escape from the fly and the success of the crop 
 depends upon quick germination and a rapid growth at first. The 
 ground should be kept free from weeds, and when the bottoms 
 begin to enlarge, the earth should be brushed from about the roots 
 to the depth of half an inch. A light dressing of wood-ashes, 
 lime, or soot, should be given morning and evening for a few days 
 after sowing the seed, which will generally serve to protect the 
 crop against the attacks of the fly. To protect during winter, 
 store in a cool, airy cellar, and cover with sand, or in mounds 
 of dry earth. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 141 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE LIST 
 
 OP 
 
 AROMATIC AND MEDICINAL HERBS. 
 
 These possess a strong spicy taste and odor, and are cultivated 
 for various culinary and medicinal purposes. Those marked with 
 an asterisk (*) are perennials, and, when once obtained, may be 
 preserved for many years. The seed of these should be sown the 
 middle of spring, in seed-beds, and transplanted in the ensuing 
 autumn or spring. The others are annuals, and come to perfec- 
 tion the first season. These should be sown the middle of spring, 
 and when the plants are up a few inches high, may be thinned out 
 to proper distances. Each kind should be sown by itself, in drills 
 about half an inch deep and twelve inches apart. To preserve for 
 use, (unless otherwise directed,) they must be thoroughly di'ied, 
 the foliage finely pulverized, and placed in jars, bottles, or other 
 air-tight vessels, securely corked, and labeled. 
 
 ANISE. — {PIMPINELLA ANISUM.) 
 
 The seed of this herb possess considerable medicinal properties. 
 They are aromatic and carminative, and yields an oil both by dis- 
 tillation and expression, which is much used in flatulencies. The 
 leaves are used as a garnish and for seasoning various dishes. 
 
 BALM.* — (MELISSA OFFICINALIS.) 
 
 This is purely a medicinal herb, and is used in the form of a tea 
 as a grateful diluent in fevers. It should be gathered before it 
 flowers, as it is then more odorous. It may be propagated from 
 
142 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 offsets. When once established, the only care required is to keep 
 it from extending itself too profusely. 
 
 BASIL, SWEET.— (ocymdm basilicum.) 
 
 Cultivated for various culinary purposes. The young leaf-tops 
 are used in making salads and soups, their flavor resembling that 
 of cloves. May be propagated from cuttings. 
 
 BENE-PLANT. — (sesamum orientale.) 
 
 The seed should be sown in a warm border, in shallow drills 
 about one foot apart, and the plants protected against frost. A 
 couple of leaves, when green, placed in a tumbler of water forms 
 a thin jelly, without taste or color, which children afflicted with 
 the summer complaint will drink freely. An invaluable plant, 
 and the best remedy for this fatal disease. If the top of the plant 
 be pinched off, it will throw out leaves in profusion. Cats are 
 quite fond of it and frequently destroy it. 
 
 BONESET.* — (eupatorium perfoliatum.) 
 
 A medicinal plant, chiefly cultivated for its leaves, which are 
 used in decoctions. Its medicinal properties are those of a tonic 
 stimulant, and when given in moderate quantities are said to pro- 
 mote digestion and restore tone to the system. 
 
 BORAGE. — (borago officinalis.) 
 
 This herb possesses sedative properties. The young leaves are 
 used as a salad. The plant is quite ornamental, and may be pro- 
 pagated from suckers 
 
 CATNEP.* — (nepeta cataria.) 
 
 Used medicinally in the form of a tea. Cats are very fond of it 
 when the scent of the plant is excited by being bruised from 
 gathering or transplanting, and frequently destroy it. When 
 grown from seed, they will not generally disturb it unless from 
 like causes. 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 143 
 
 CARAWAY. — (CARUM CARUI.) 
 
 This is a biennial plant and is cultivated chiefly for its seed. 
 They are used for flavoring cakes, &c, and form a carminative dis- 
 tilled water. The leaves are used as an ingredient in salads. 
 The roots are said to be superior in flavor to those of the Parsnip. 
 May be propagated from suckers. 
 
 CHAMOMILE.* — (anthemis nobilis.) 
 
 This is a medicinal plant of great utility. The flowers should 
 be gathered before they begin to fade, and when they are perfectly 
 free from moisture. Spread in a shady place to dry, and place in 
 paper bags. This herb delights in a poor, sandy soil, and may 
 be readily propagated by divisions of the root. 
 
 CORIANDER. — (coriandrum sativum.) 
 
 The leaves of this plant are strongly scented. The seed, which 
 are slightly aromatic, are used medicinally, in culinary purposes 
 as a sweatmeat, and for seasoning various drinks. May be pro- 
 pagated from suckers. 
 
 DILL.* — (anethum graveolens.) 
 
 The seed of this plant are used in medicine as carminatives. 
 The leaves are used in soups, &c. When once established, an 
 abundance of young plants may be had every spring. May be 
 propagated from cuttings and suckers. 
 
 ELECAMPANE.*— (inula helenidm.) 
 
 This is purely a medicinal plant, and is cultivated for its roots, 
 which, when dried and made into a tea, is an excellent remedy for 
 colds. A moist and shady position is essential to its culture. May 
 be propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
144 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 FENNEL, COMMON.* — (anethum fceniculum.) 
 
 The leaves of this plant are used in salads and sauce for fish. 
 When not required to produce seed, the stalks should be cut down, 
 from time to time, during the growing season. By this method, 
 the roots will last many years May be propagated from suckers 
 and offsets. 
 
 FEVERFEW.* — (chrysanthemum parthenium.) 
 
 This plant is cultivated for medicinal purposes. The roots have 
 a strong unpleasant smell and a bitter taste. Used externally in 
 the form of lotion and of poultice, and internally as an infusion for 
 cholic, hysterical affections, and weak digestion. May be propa- 
 gated by dividing the roots. 
 
 GINGER.* — (ZINIBER OFFICINALE.) 
 
 The roots of this plant are much used both in medicine and do- 
 mestic cookery. The roots should be planted in a hot-bed, and, 
 when frost has ceased, transplanted to two feet distant from each 
 other, and the ground kept clean and free from weeds. The roots 
 desired for use should be taken up when the stalks fade, and, 
 being first washed and scalded, dried in the sun. Those intended 
 for planting, should be taken up somewhat earlier, and protected 
 from frost. In the middle or southern States, it may readily be 
 propagated by dividing the green roots. In the South, and per- 
 haps in some of the middle States, they may be permitted to 
 remain in the ground till spring, by covering the roots with straw 
 or long manure. 
 
 HOREHOUND.* — (marrubium vulgare.) 
 
 This is purely a medicinal herb, and has an aromatic odor when 
 dried, which it soon looses if not excluded from the air. It is 
 tonic, diuretic, and laxative, and a popular domestic remedy for 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 145 
 
 coughs. When once established, a plentiful supply of young 
 plants may be had every spring from the seed which drop. 
 
 HYSSOP.* — (hyssopus officinalis. ) 
 
 A neat little evergreen and quite fragrant when in flower. The 
 whole plant has a strong aromatic scent, and the leaves and flowers 
 a strong pungent taste. The flower-spikes and young leaves are 
 used for medicinal purposes. The flower-stems, when gathered 
 and dried, should be hung up in some dry situation. Easily pro- 
 pagated by dividing the root. 
 
 LAVENDER.* — (lavendula spica.) 
 
 The flowers should be cut in dry weather, when they begin to 
 blow, close to the stem. The uses of which are well known, 
 whether used in the flower or the water which is distilled from it. 
 When grown in poor and gravelly soils, the flowers have a power- 
 ful odor, while in rich soil, they grow more luxuriantly, but have 
 less perfume. Easily propagated from cuttings or divisions of the 
 roots. 
 
 MARIGOLD, POT.— (calendula officinalis.) 
 
 Both the leaves and flowers of this plant are used for flavoring 
 various dishes in domestic cookery. When the flowers are full 
 blown, they, as well as the leaves, should be gathered, dried, and 
 preserved for future use. 
 
 MARJORAM, SWEET.— (origanum majorana.) 
 
 Different portions of this plant are used for various purposes. 
 The seed and leaves are used medicinally, and the top for dyeing. 
 The young tops and leaves are used in soups, broths, and stuffings. 
 The dried leaves furnish an excellent substitute for tea, and is said 
 to be exceedingly grateful. Should be cut before it comes into 
 bloom, hung up in small bunches to dry, first for a day in the sun, 
 and then in the shade, and when quite dry, hung up in paper bags 
 
146 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 in a dry place. It thrives well in a light, dry, and moderately 
 fertile soil, and should have an open situation. 
 
 MINT, SPEAR.*— (MENTHA VIRIDIS.) 
 
 This herb contains much essential oil, and which is used for 
 various purposes. The essential oil, a conserve, a simple water, 
 and a spirit, are the officinal preparations from this plant. The 
 conserve is very grateful, and the distilled waters, both simple aud 
 spirituous, are generally thought pleasant. The leaves and tops 
 are likewise used for various culinary purposes. For medicinal 
 use, it should be cut in dry weather, just before the flowers ap- 
 pear. Should be transplanted every third year, and requires a 
 moist shady position. Propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
 MINT, PEPPER.*— (MENTHA PIPERITA.) 
 
 This plant has a much stronger smell and a more penetrating 
 taste than Spearmint. The officinal preparations are an essential 
 oil, a simple water, and a spirit. To keep up its quality, the roots 
 should be transplanted every third year, otherwise it degenerates 
 into the flavor of Spearmint. When cut in wet weather, it turns 
 black, and is worth but little. Propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
 PENNYROYAL.* — (mentha pulegium. ) 
 
 A medicinal herb, but used for some few culinary purposes. 
 The plant has an odor somewhat like Spearmint, but less fragrant. 
 The taste is aromatic and pungent, with a slight flavor of cam- 
 phor. Formerly in high repute, but now seldom used in regular 
 practice. Propagated by dividing the roots. 
 
 ROSEMARY.* — (Rosmarinus officinalis. ) 
 
 By distillation, this plant yields a light-pale essential oil of great 
 fragrance, which is imparted to rectified spirit. It is the principal 
 ingredient in Hungary water. Tea is made from the leaves for 
 headache and nervous persons. It delights in a lean, dry soil, 
 
AND VEGETABLE-GARDEN MANUAL. 147 
 
 and, when once established, will last for many years. Propagated 
 from cuttings, in spring and autumn. 
 
 RUE, COMMON.* — (rota graveolens.) 
 
 The leaves of this plant have a powerful unpleasant odor, and a 
 hot, bitter, nauseous taste. When green, they will inflame and 
 blister the skin, but looses this property in drying. Medicinally, 
 it is stimulant and antispasmodic. Propagated from cuttings, in 
 spring and autumn. 
 
 SAGE, GARDEN.* — (salvia officinalis.) 
 
 Used for various culinary purposes, and in some cases medicin- 
 ally. It was formerly in great repute in medicine. Wet ground 
 is not congenial to its growth. May be propagated from seed, 
 cuttings, or divisions of the root. The shoots of the present year 
 should be employed for cuttings, as they root freely, and if moder- 
 ately watered till rooted, will form strong plants the first season. 
 As soon as the foliage has matured, Sage should be cut to witbin 
 two eyes of the present year's growth, dried in the shade, placed 
 in paper bags, and hung up in a dry situation. By this method, 
 a second crop may be obtained. 
 
 SAVORY. 
 
 There are two varieties of this plant cultivated for various culi- 
 nary, and some medicinal purposes. Winter Savory (satureja 
 Montana) is a perennial plant, and may be propagated from seed, 
 cuttings, or offsets, the middle of spring. Summer Savory (sa- 
 tureja hortensis) is an annual, and should be planted every year 
 if wanted in perfection. Both varieties are much esteemed for 
 their warm, aromatic, and pungent leaves. Should be cut and 
 dried as directed for Sage. 
 
 TANSY.* — (tanacetum vulgare.) 
 
 The common Tansy has a strong aromatic smell and a bitter 
 taste. It is stimulant and carminative, and a distilled water and 
 
148 THE AMATEURS' GUIDE 
 
 a stomachic bitter are prepared from it. The young leaves are 
 shredded down and employed to give color and flavor to puddings. 
 They are also used in omelets and cakes. Propagated from seed 
 and divisions of the roots. 
 
 THYME.* — (thymus vulgaris.) 
 
 The young leaves of this plant are employed for various culi- 
 nary purposes. It yields a species of camphor in distillation with 
 water. Propagated from seed or divisions of the roots. 
 
 WORMWOOD.* — (aktemisia absinthium.) 
 
 This is purely a medicinal plant, and used for various purposes. 
 It is said to be a stomachic and slightly stimulating. Propagated 
 from seed, cuttings, and divisions of the roots. 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 FLOWER-GARDEN 
 
 Annuals, tender, 19 
 
 half-hardy, 20 
 
 hardy, 20 
 
 Best soil for a garden, 7 
 
 Biennials, 20 
 
 Box edging, 93 
 
 Bulbous roots, 20, 30 
 
 Bulbs in glasses, 100 
 
 pots, 100 
 
 Cacti, 101 
 
 Carnation pinks, 94 
 
 Catalogue of flower-seed, 23 
 
 Clarification of plants, 19 
 
 roses, 54 
 
 Component parts of soil, 7 
 
 Chrysanthemum, 95 
 
 Dahlia, 95 
 
 Deciduous plants, 21, 31 
 
 Destructive insects, 90 
 
 Evergreens, 22, 34 
 
 Fly, 91 
 
 Garden plants, 93 
 
 tools, 1G 
 
 Geraniums, 96 
 
 Grafting-wax, 92 
 
 Gravel walks, 12 
 
 Green-fly, 90 
 
 Growing roses from seed, 3 7 
 
 Griil), 91 
 
 Hot-bed and pit, 14 
 
 manures for,.... 14 
 
 House plants in winter, 98 
 
 Hydrangea, 96 
 
 Lilies, 97 
 
 Mildew, 90 
 
 Perrennials, 20 
 
 Petunias, 97 
 
 Practical directions, 16 
 
 Preparation of the ground, 9 
 
 manure, 8 
 
 Propagation by cuttings, 39 
 
 budding, 40 
 
 inn-arching, 44 
 
 cleft-grafting, ... 48 
 
 Page. 
 
 Propagation by layering, 49 
 
 root -grafting, ... 46 
 
 whip-grafting, .. 43 
 
 wedge-grafting, 47 
 Rosa Multiflora, — ■ 
 
 The Multiflora Rose, 55 
 
 Rosa Centifolia Mdscosa, — 
 
 The Moss Rose, 56 
 
 Rosa Moschata, — 
 
 The Noisette Rose, 58 
 
 Rosa Indica Odorata, — 
 
 The Tea-scented Rose 62 
 
 Rosa Indica, — 
 
 The Bengal Chinese, or Daily 
 
 Rose, 67 
 
 Rosa Lawbenciajta, — 
 
 The Miniature Rose, 70 
 
 Rosa Bourboniana, — 
 
 The Bourbon Rose, 70 
 
 Remontantes, — 
 
 The Hybrid Perpetual Rose, 7 7 
 
 Perpetual Damask Rose, 82 
 
 Rosa Michropiiyllia, — 
 
 The Small-leaved Rose, 85 
 
 Rosa Moschata, — 
 
 The Musk-scented Rose, 86 
 
 Roses, planting, 50 
 
 impregnating the seed of, 38 
 
 protecting tender, 91 
 
 pruning, 51 
 
 select list of, 88 
 
 explanation of terms used 
 
 in describing, 87 
 
 Rose bug, 90 
 
 worm, ' 90 
 
 Seed, gathering, 13 
 
 sowing, 9 
 
 preserving, 13 
 
 Slugs, 91 
 
 Transplanting, 10 
 
 Tuberoots, 30 
 
 Verbenas, 98 
 
 Walks and beds, 11 
 
 Watering, remarks on, 17 
 
152 
 
 GENERAL LNDEX. 
 
 ROSES 
 
 Page 
 
 Abbe Meillon, 59 
 
 Moiland, 67 
 
 Abricote, 63 
 
 Acidalie, 71 
 
 Adam, 63 
 
 Adele Javon, 78 
 
 Admiral d' Eating, 78 
 
 de Rigney, 60 
 
 Aggrippinia, 68 
 
 Aimee Vibert, 59 
 
 Scandens 59 
 
 Alba, 55, 59, 10 
 
 Odorata, 85 
 
 Alcine, 67 
 
 Alexandrine Bachrneteff, 18 
 
 Alice Leroi, 56 
 
 Alphonse Karr, 18 
 
 Alzande, 59 
 
 Amarantine, 11 
 
 Amenaide, Tl 
 
 Angelina, 83 
 
 Bucelle, VI 
 
 Angelique Quetier, 56 
 
 Anteros, 63 
 
 Antheros, 63 
 
 Antinous, 83 
 
 Anne Beluze, 11 
 
 Apolline, 11 
 
 Arance de Navaro, 67 
 
 Arehduchesse Theresa Isabel, 63 
 
 Archduke Charles, 67 
 
 Archinto, 63 
 
 Arkinto, 63 
 
 Armosa, 71 
 
 Aricie, 78 
 
 Asteroide, 71 
 
 Aubcrnon, 78 
 
 Auguste Mee, 78 
 
 Augustine Hersent, 67 
 
 Lelieur, 71 
 
 Margat, 71 
 
 Mouchelet, 78 
 
 Aurora, 59, 65 
 
 Aurore du Guide, 71 
 
 Barbot, 63 
 
 Bardon, 67 
 
 Barronne Delaage, 67 
 
 Barronne de Heckeren, . 
 
 Prevost, , 
 
 Beau Carmin, 
 
 Beaute de Versailles,..., 
 Belle Allemande, 
 
 Archinto, 
 
 Emilie, 
 
 Faber, 
 
 Ferronniere, 
 
 d'Esquermes, 
 
 de Florence, 
 
 Isadore, 
 
 Marguerite, 
 
 Marseillaise, 
 
 de Monza, 
 
 Belzunce, 
 
 Bernard, 
 
 Billiard 
 
 Blush Moss, 
 
 Perpetual, 
 
 Boisnard, 
 
 Bon Silene, 
 
 Boquet de Flore, 
 
 Bougere, 
 
 Boulogne, 
 
 Bourbon Moss, 
 
 Bride of Abydos, 
 
 Buret, , 
 
 Calliope, 
 
 Camellia Blanc, 
 
 Rouge, 
 
 Camelliaflora, 
 
 Camel eon, 
 
 Caprice des Dames, 
 
 Captain Renard, 
 
 Carassana, 
 
 Cardinal Fesch, 
 
 Carmin Cluster, 
 
 d'Yebles, 
 
 Superbe, 
 
 Carnea, 
 
 Caroline, 
 
 Celimne, 
 
 Cels Multiflora, 
 
 Ceres, 
 
 Cezarine Souchet, 
 
 Champneyana, , 
 
 Page. 
 .... 78 
 .... 78 
 .... 67 
 .... 71 
 .... 63 
 .... 63 
 .... 67 
 .... 83 
 .... 67 
 .... 59 
 .... 67 
 .... 68 
 .... 63 
 .... 59 
 .... 67 
 .... 71 
 .... 83 
 .... 83 
 .... 56 
 .... 84 
 .... 68 
 .... 63 
 .... 71 
 .... 63 
 .... 59 
 .... 57 
 .... 63 
 .... 63 
 .... 78 
 .... 68 
 .... 59 
 .... 68 
 .... 68 
 .... 70 
 ... 84 
 ... 61 
 
 ,:.. 7i 
 
 .. 61 
 
 68 
 •85 
 63 
 71 
 68 
 72 
 72 
 59 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 153 
 
 Page 
 
 Champney's Pink Cluster, 59 
 
 Charlemagne, 72 
 
 Charles Martel, 72 
 
 Reybaud J.. 63 
 
 Soiichet,. 72 
 
 the Tenth, 59 
 
 Chatenay, 72 
 
 Cloris, 59 
 
 Chromatelle, 59 
 
 Clara Sylvain 64 
 
 Wendel, 59 
 
 Claire du Chatelet, 83 
 
 Clementine Duval, 18 
 
 Seringe, 18 
 
 Clifton Moss 58 
 
 Cloth of Gold, 59 
 
 Coccinea, 85 
 
 Coelestis, v 61 
 
 Coeline Perpetuelle, 18 
 
 Comble de Gloire, 6S 
 
 Cornice de Seine et Marne, 12 
 
 Commandant Fournier, 78 
 
 Common Tea, 65 
 
 Comted'Egmont, 18 
 
 d'Eu, 78 
 
 de Montalivet, 19 
 
 de Osmond, 64 
 
 de Paris, 64, 79 
 
 de Rambuteau, 12 
 
 Comtesse Duehatel, 79 
 
 de Grillon, 59 
 
 deNoe 57 
 
 Odoisse, 60 
 
 d'Orloff, 60 
 
 de Rambuteau, 79 
 
 de Tolosan 60 
 
 Conque de Venus, 60 
 
 Cora L. Barton 60 
 
 Cornet, '. 79 
 
 Couronne de Beranger, 83 
 
 Cramoisie, 86 
 
 Superieur, 68 
 
 Crested Moss, 56 
 
 Provins, 56 
 
 Crimson, 83 
 
 Globe, 72 
 
 Madame Desprez 73 
 
 Moss, 56 
 
 Pompon. 57 
 
 Superbe, 84 
 
 Damask Moss 56 
 
 D'Ang-ers, 83 
 
 Page. 
 
 D'Esquermes, 83 
 
 Dela Fleche, 57 
 
 Delille, 72 
 
 Delphine Gaudot HI 
 
 DeMeaux, 57 
 
 De Montmorency, 83 
 
 Desdemona, s:; 
 
 Desgaches, 72 
 
 Desire Roussell, 60 
 
 Desprez d'Arcole, 60 
 
 DeuildeDumontd'Urville, 83 
 
 Devoniensis, 64 
 
 Docteur Blandin, 72 
 
 Hardouin, 72 
 
 Marjolin, 79 
 
 Marx, 79 
 
 Roques, 72 
 
 Doa Carlos, 68 
 
 Donna Maria, 60 
 
 Double White Striped Moss 57 
 
 Dremont, 64 
 
 Due de Alen^on, 79 
 
 Aumale, 79 
 
 Chartres, 72 
 
 Isly, 79 
 
 Duchess de Galliera, 79 
 
 Kent, 68 
 
 Mecklenbourg, 64 
 
 Montpensier, 79 
 
 Normandie, 72 
 
 Orleans, 79 
 
 Praslin, 79 
 
 Rohan 83 
 
 Sutherland, 79 
 
 Thuringe, 72 
 
 Du Luxembourg. 60, 86 
 
 Dumont du Courset, 72 
 
 Dupetit Thouars, 72 
 
 Earl of Derby, 83 
 
 Talbot, 79 
 
 Eclatante, 57 
 
 Edouard Desfoses, 73 
 
 Eliza Balcombe, 83 
 
 Sauvage, 64 
 
 Emilie Courtier, 73 
 
 Etna, 57, 68 
 
 Etoile du Berger, 73 
 
 Eugene Beauharnais, 6S 
 
 Hardy, 68 
 
 Pirolle, 00 
 
 Eugenia Dubourg, 60 
 
 Desgachec, 64 
 
154 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Eugenie Guinoisseau, 73 
 
 Jovain, 65 
 
 Euphrosine, CO 
 
 Fabvier, 68 
 
 Fanny Dupuis, 63 
 
 Duval, 68 
 
 Faustine, 73 
 
 Fedora, 73 
 
 Fellenburg, 60 
 
 Ferdinand Deppe, 80 
 
 Ferrugineuse, 58 
 
 Flavescens, 64 
 
 Fleur de Jeune Age, 60 
 
 Flon, 84 
 
 Floralie, 64 
 
 Fragoletta, 64 
 
 French Yellow Noisette, 60 
 
 Fulgorie, 80 
 
 Gantin, 72 
 
 Geant des Batailles, 80 
 
 General Dubourg, 73 
 
 Hoche, 73 
 
 Soyez, 08 
 
 Taylor, ..' 73 
 
 George Cuvier, 73 
 
 Georgina, 83 
 
 Gigantesque, 64 
 
 Gloire, To 
 
 des, 84 
 
 de Hardy, 64 
 
 de Paris,' 73 
 
 Rosameue, 80 
 
 Goubault, 64 
 
 Gracilis, 57 
 
 Grande, 83 
 
 et Belle, 83 
 
 Captainc, 80 
 
 Grandiflora, 61 
 
 Grevillia, 55 
 
 Gros Charles, 68 
 
 Hamon, 64 
 
 Happy Dream, 66 
 
 Hardy, 64 
 
 Heloise, 57 
 
 Hennequin, 73 
 
 Henry Clay, (Ball's,) 73 
 
 (Raabe's, ) 73 
 
 Lecoq 73 
 
 the Fifth, 68 
 
 Herbemonth's Musk ('luster, 86 
 
 Hermosa, 71 
 
 Hersilie, 73 
 
 Hortensia, 
 
 Hynu-nee, 64 
 
 Hyppolyte, 64 
 
 Icterose, 69 
 
 Ida Percot, 73 
 
 Imperatrice Josephine, 73 
 
 Indica, 68 
 
 Alba, 69 
 
 Minor, 70 
 
 Indigo, 83 
 
 Infidelite Lisette, 69 
 
 Isabel, 63 
 
 Isaure Lablee, 83 
 
 Jacques Lafitte, 80 
 
 Jaune Desprez, 60 
 
 Panache, 65 
 
 Jeannie d'Arc, 60 
 
 Deans, 68 
 
 Jeanne Hatchette, 84 
 
 Joseph Deschiens, 69 
 
 Josephine Antoinette, 84 
 
 Malton, 65 
 
 Jules Desmont, 65 
 
 Julia, 60 
 
 Dante, 60 
 
 Julie Deloynes, 73 
 
 Dupont, 80 
 
 de Fontenelle, 74 
 
 Mansais, 65 
 
 Julienne Le Sourde, 60 
 
 Justine, 74 
 
 King of France, 69 
 
 La Biche, 60 
 
 La Capricieuse, 84 
 
 Lactans, 60 
 
 Lady Alice Peel, 80 
 
 Canning, 74 
 
 Elphingstone, 80 
 
 Fordwich, 80 
 
 Granville, 65 
 
 Sefton, 80 
 
 Seymour, 84 
 
 Stuart, 80 
 
 Warrender, 64 
 
 L'Etna, 68 
 
 Laffay's Perpetual White Muss,.. 57 
 
 La Gracieuse, 74 
 
 Lamarque, 61 
 
 a Cceur Rose, 60 
 
 La Mienne 84 
 
 La Miniature. 70, 84 
 
 Landreth's Carmine, 61 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 155 
 
 Page, 
 
 La Nymphe, 61 
 
 Lane, 80 
 
 La Pactole, 61 
 
 LaReine, 80 
 
 La Renommee 65 
 
 La Renoncule, 80 
 
 La Sylphide, 65 
 
 Latifolia, 74 
 
 Laura, Davoust, 55 
 
 Raymond, 80 
 
 Laurence de Montmorency, 84 
 
 La Victorieuse, 62 
 
 Lavinie d'Ost, .- 74 
 
 Lee, 61 
 
 Le Carnee, 74 
 
 Lelieur, 61 
 
 Leonidas, 69 
 
 Le Florifere, "74 
 
 Le Grenadier, 74 
 
 Le Phcenix, 74 
 
 Le Similor, 62 
 
 Leveson Gower, 74 
 
 Lichas, 74 
 
 Louis Bonaparte, 80 
 
 Philippe, 69, 84 
 
 Louise Colet, 57 
 
 Lutea, 61 
 
 Luxembourg Moss, 58 
 
 Lyonnais, , 65 
 
 Madame Angelina, 74 
 
 Aud, 74 
 
 Beluze, 71 
 
 Breon, 69 
 
 Burea, 69 
 
 Byrne, 61 
 
 Cousin, 74 
 
 de Crequi, 69 
 
 Damame, 81 
 
 Desgaches, 81 
 
 Desprez, 65, 74 
 
 Ferray, 83 
 
 Fremion, 81 
 
 Guerin, 65 
 
 Hersent, 67 
 
 Helfenbein, 74 
 
 Jouvain, 61 
 
 Lacharme, 74 
 
 Laffay, 81 
 
 Manoel, 81 
 
 Margat, 71 
 
 Nerard, 75 
 
 Pepin, 75 
 
 Page. 
 
 Madame Rivers, 81 
 
 de Rohan, 69 
 
 Roussell, 65 
 
 de St. Joseph, 65 
 
 Souchet, 75 
 
 Tripet, 75 
 
 Verdier, ,^1 
 
 Mademoiselle Rachel, 75 
 
 Magnolia Rose, 85 
 
 Malvina, 57, 75 
 
 Manteau de Jeanne d'Arc, 75 
 
 Marechal de Villars, 75 
 
 "Margat Jeune, 75 
 
 Maria, 61 
 
 Marianne, 75 
 
 Marjolin. 69, 84 
 
 Marquise Bocella, 81 
 
 d'lvry, 75 
 
 Mathilde Jourdeuil, 81 
 
 Mauget, 57 
 
 Melanie Cornu, 81 
 
 Meillez, 69 
 
 Melville, 65 
 
 Minerva, 84 
 
 Minor, 57 
 
 Mirabile, 65 
 
 Miss Fanny, 75 
 
 Glegg, 61 
 
 Mogador, 84 
 
 Moire, 65 
 
 Mondor, 65 
 
 Montrosa, 61 
 
 Moss Crestata, 56 
 
 Mrs. Bosanquet, 75 
 
 Elliott, 81 
 
 Siddons, 61 
 
 Wood, 78 
 
 Mutabilis, 61 
 
 Multiflora, 55 
 
 Graulhie, 55 
 
 Nankin, 61 
 
 Napoleon, 64 
 
 Narcisse, 61 
 
 Nemesis 7o 
 
 Ne Plus Ultra, 61 
 
 Nerine, 75 
 
 Nevia, 59 
 
 New Double Musk Cluster, 86 
 
 White Cluster Moss, 57 
 
 Yellow Tea, 61 
 
 Ninon de l'Enclos, 75 
 
 Niphetos, 65 
 
156 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Nisida, 65 
 
 Nivea, 86 
 
 Noisette Agrippinia, 63 
 
 ( >deur d' Anisette, 61 
 
 Odorata, 65 
 
 Ophire, 61 
 
 Original, 66 
 
 Oscar Foulard, 57 
 
 Leclerc, 75 
 
 Pactoius, 61 
 
 Palmyre, 84 
 
 Panache dc Girardon, 84 
 
 Pleine, 57 
 
 Pauline PI antier, 66, 78 
 
 Paul Joseph, 75 
 
 Dupuy, 81 
 
 Pellonia, 66 
 
 Perfection, 66 
 
 Perpetual Pompon, 83 
 
 Red Moss, 57 
 
 Petit Annie, 61 
 
 Pictorium, 62 
 
 Pierre de St. Cyre 76 
 
 Pink Daily, 68 
 
 Michrophyllia, 85 
 
 Pius the Ninth, 81 
 
 Pompon, 57, 70 
 
 Feu, 57 
 
 Pontuee, 84 
 
 Pourpre Fafait, 76 
 
 du Luxembourg, 86 
 
 de Tyre, 76 
 
 Premices des Charpennes, 76 
 
 Prince Albert, 81 
 
 (Paul's,) 76 
 
 Charles 69 
 
 d'Esterhazy, 6G 
 
 Eugene,...." 68 
 
 of Wales, 81 
 
 Princessc Adelaide, 57, 66 
 
 Clementine, 76 
 
 Helene, 81 
 
 Modestc, 66 
 
 Maria, 66 
 
 de Modena, 76 
 
 de Nassau, 86 
 
 Royale, 57, 84 
 
 Prolific, .' 57 
 
 Proserpine, 76 
 
 Provins Moss, 57 
 
 Prudence Rceser, 62 
 
 Pulcherie, 84 
 
 Page. 
 
 Purpurea 86 
 
 Quatre Saisons Mousseux, 57 
 
 Queen of the Bourbons, 76 
 
 Ranunculus Musk Cluster, 8(3 
 
 Raymond, 76 
 
 Reine de Bassaro, 66 
 
 du Congres, 76 
 
 des Fleurs 82 
 
 de la Guillotiere. 82 
 
 des Isles de Bourbon, 76 
 
 de Lombardie, 69 
 
 des Vierges, 76 
 
 Reve du Bonheur, 66 
 
 Requien, 84 
 
 Rivers, 82 
 
 Robin Hood, 82 
 
 Roi des Beiges, 64 
 
 Rose du Roi, 83 
 
 Rosea, 86 
 
 Rouge, 58 
 
 de Luxembourg, 58 
 
 Royale, 83 
 
 Ruben Pourpre, 69 
 
 Rubens, 69 
 
 Rubra, 86 
 
 Violaca* 86 
 
 Russelliana, 55 
 
 Russell's Cottage Rose, 55 
 
 Saint Fiacre, 84 
 
 Sablee, 58 
 
 Safrano, 66 
 
 Sage-leaved Moss, 58 
 
 Sanguinea, 69 
 
 Scarlet Grevillia, 55 
 
 Scipio, 76 
 
 Semperflorens, 69 
 
 Seven Sisters, 55 
 
 Silene, 66 
 
 Similor, 62 
 
 Sir Walter Scott, 62 
 
 Sixth of June, 82 
 
 Smitlni, 61 
 
 Solfatare, 62 
 
 Souvenir de Desire, 76 
 
 de Dumont d'Urville,.. 76 
 
 de la Malmaison 7<i 
 
 Souchet, 76 
 
 Splendens 58, 73 
 
 Standard of Marengo, 82 
 
 Striped Crimson Perpetual, 84 
 
 Perpetual, 84 
 
 Strombio, 66 
 
GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 157 
 
 Page 
 
 Sully 77 
 
 Sydonie Dorisy 77 
 
 Taglioni, 66 
 
 The Buret, 68 
 
 The Chrysanthiuieflora, 61 
 
 The a Fleurs Jeunne, GO 
 
 Th«' Pactole, 61 
 
 Taemistocles, 66 
 
 Therese Margat, 71 
 
 Theresa Stravius, 6*7 
 
 Theresita, 77 
 
 Tinwell Moss, 56 
 
 Triomphe de la Duchere 62 
 
 du Luxembourg, 66 
 
 de Macheteaux, 86 
 
 des Noisettes. 61 
 
 de Plantier, 77 
 
 de Rouen, 85 
 
 Unique de Provins, 57 
 
 Valentine, 66 
 
 Pag .. 
 
 Veilland, 58 
 
 Vesuvius, 69 
 
 Victoria Modeste, 66 
 
 Victorieuse, 62 
 
 Violet Cramoisie, 86 
 
 Virgil, 77 
 
 Virginale, 60 
 
 Viscoratesse de Cazes, 66 
 
 Viscorate de Cussy, 77 
 
 Vitellina, 62 
 
 Warratah, 85 
 
 White Bath, 58 
 
 Daily, 60 
 
 Michrophy Ilia, 85 
 
 William Jesse,.. 82 
 
 Griffith, 82 
 
 Yellow Tea 64 
 
 Youlande d'Aragon, 85 
 
 Zictrude, 62 
 
 Zulema, 77 
 
 VEGETABLE-GARDEN. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Anise, 141 
 
 Aromatic and Medicinal Herbs, 141 
 
 Artichoke, L08 
 
 Jerusalem, 121 
 
 Asparagus, 100 
 
 Balm, 141 
 
 Basil, Sweet, 742 
 
 Beans 110 
 
 Bene-Plant, 142 
 
 Beest, Ill 
 
 Boneset 142 
 
 Borage, 142 
 
 Borecole, 112 
 
 Brocoli, 112 
 
 Cabbage, 113 
 
 Fly, remedies for, 114 
 
 Cardoon, 115 
 
 Carrot, 115 
 
 Caraway, 143 
 
 Catnep, 142 
 
 Cauliflower, 116 
 
 Celery, 116 
 
 Chamomile 143 
 
 Chervil, 117 
 
 Page. 
 
 Chives, 110 
 
 Corn, Indian, 121 
 
 Salad, 117 
 
 Coriander, 143 
 
 Cress, 118 
 
 Water, 118 
 
 Cucumber, 118 
 
 Dill, 143 
 
 Egg-Plant, HO 
 
 Elecampane, 143 
 
 Endive, 120 
 
 Fennel, Common, 144 
 
 Feverfew, 144 
 
 Garden, situation of the, 106 
 
 Ginger, 144 
 
 Horehound, 144 
 
 Horse-Radish, 120 
 
 Hyssop, 145 
 
 Lavender, 145 
 
 Leek, 121 
 
 Lettuice, 122 
 
 Manures, properties of, 107 
 
 Marigold, Pot, 145 
 
 Marjoram, Sweet, 145 
 
158 
 
 GENERAL INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Melon, 123 
 
 Water, 124 
 
 Mint, Spear, 146 
 
 Pepper, 146 
 
 Mushroom, 125 
 
 Mustard, 126 
 
 Nasturtium, 127 
 
 Okra, 128 
 
 Onion, 127 
 
 Parsley, 128 
 
 Parsnip, 128 
 
 Peas, 129 
 
 Pennyroyal, 146 
 
 Pepper, 130 
 
 Potato, 130 
 
 Sweet, 131 
 
 Pumpkin, 132 
 
 Radish, 132 
 
 Rhubarb, 133 
 
 Rocambole, 133 
 
 Rosemary, 146 
 
 Rue, Common, 147 
 
 Sage, Garden, 147 
 
 Salsify, 134 
 
 Savory, 147 
 
 Scorzonera, 135 
 
 Scurvy-Grass, 135 
 
 Sea-Kale, 135 
 
 Shallott, 136 
 
 Skirret, 137 
 
 Soil, properties of, 106 
 
 Sorrel, 137 
 
 Spinach, 137 
 
 Sprouts, Brussel's, 112 
 
 Squash, 138 
 
 Tansy, 147 
 
 Thyme, 148 
 
 Tomato, 138 
 
 Turnip, 130 
 
 Wormwood, 148 
 
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