■ ILLUSTRATED HISTORY, COMPRISING IN A CONDENSED FORM A HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES. —A— GEOGRAPHY OF THE WESTERN CONTINENT, AND THE CHIEF OBJECTS OF INTEREST ON THE EASTERN CONTINENT, INCLUDING A HISTORICAL AND DESCEIPTVE SKETCH OF THE HOLY LAND. BY W. S. CLARK. ILLUSTRATED BY STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS, BUBLI8HBD BT E. & H. T. ANTHONY, NEW YORK. "UBLISHEB BY J. H. CLARK & CO., ROCKFORD, ILLINOIS. ROCKFORD REGISTER STEAM PRINTING HOUSE. PREFACE. This work has been prepared for the purpose of bringing within the reach of all, the important matter of History and Geography in a condensed form, and illustrated in such a man- ner as to make clear and lasting impressions on the mind of the Scholar, and serve as an incentive to study. This study has been sadly neglected, not because of its unimportance, but from the long, dry, and tedious manner in which it has been presented. The wood cuts which usually accompany Histories, generally give a very imperect idea of the scene intended to be represented. Accompanying this work are Stereoscopic Views taken from the object itself, showing nature and art as they actually exist, and as they would appear if seen with the naked eye. INSTRUCTIONS. This History, Stereoscope, and Views, will be furnished in Sets. The Views that are sent to a Township differ, and by changing, from time to time, each district can have the benefit of the whole number. In the back part of the Book will be found a list of headings, giving the page and division of the catalogue under which will be found the title and number corres- ponding with that on the View. When a view is furnished that is not embodied in the catalogue, figures will be set on the face side of the View, denoting the page in the History, except when a sufficient description is printed on the back of the view. The History can be used with great success with but a single copy in the School, by giving each scholar in the class so much time for the study. When more are required they can be obtained of Agents, or by ordering. All orders in the Northwest must be sent to JAS. H. CLARK & CO., Hockford, Illinois. Entered according to Act of Congress, Jan. A. D. 1870, by Hart & Clark, in tlie Office of the Clerk of the District Court of the U. S., for the Northern District of Illinois. CONTENTS. PART I. CHAP. PAGE. I. Discovery of America, 1 II. Colonial History of the New England States, 7 III. " " " Middle States, 21 IV. " " " Southern States, 27 V. Causes of the Revolution, - 45 VI. The War for Independence, ... - 49 VII. The Administrations, - 58 VIII. The Civil War, 72 IX. Close of the Civil War, 92 X. North American Indians, - 96 XI. Declaration of Independence, - 107 XII. Constitution of the United States, 112 Amendments to the Constitution, - 125 Emancipation Proclamation, - 131 PART II. CHAP. PAGE. I. Geographical History of the New England States, 139 II. " " " Middle States, - 173 III. " " " Southern States. 221 IV. " " " Western States, - 249 V. " " " Territories, 305 VI. " " " of British America, 312 VII. " " " " Mexico, 316 VIII. " " " " Central America, 325 IV CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. IX. Geographical History of the West Indies, - - 328 X. " " " South America, - 333 PART III. CHAP. PAGE. I. Geographical History of the Brit. Isles, England, 343 " " * " " " Scotland, 348 " " " " " Ireland, 352 II. " " of France, - - 355 III. " " Switzerland, - - 359 IV. " " Austria, - - 367 " Prussia, - - - 369 " " Germany, - - 371 " Russia, - - - 372 V. " " Italy, --- 374 " " the Papal States, - 381 VI. " " China, - - - 386 Japan, - - - 389 VII. Historical and descriptive sketch of Palestine and adjacent Countries, ----- 390 Geographical History of Sinai, - 409 " " Greece, 409 Egypt, - - - 411 Catalogue of Views, 413 List of Headings, - 439 HISTORY UNITED STATES. CHAPTER I. DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. The United States consists of thirty-six States and ten Terri- tories. This country is bounded by the great lakes and the British possessions on the north, the Atlantic ocean on the east, the gulf of Mexico and Mexico on the south, and the Pacific ocean on the west. The American continent, or New "World, as it is sometimes called, was discovered by Christopher Columbus, in the year 1492. Columbus was a native of Genoa — born about 1435. His father was a wool-comber, but gave his son advantages of education, particularly in geography, mathematics, and astron- omy, for which he early displayed a decided taste. When he was fourteen years of age he went to sea. A few years later, while in the service of a kinsman who commanded a small Genoese squadron, and taking part in an engagement with some Venetian vessels off the coast of Portugal, his ship caught fire, and he leaped into the waves and barely saved his life by swimming ashore. He was attracted to Lisbon by the fame that Portugal had won by her maritime enterprise, where he married the daugh- ter of an eminent navigator, the access to whose charts and journals awakened within him an ardent desire for discovery. Z DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. From this time to 1477 we find hira engaged in various voyages to the Canaries, the Azores, Madeira, and the coasts of Guinea and Iceland. The geographical researches of Columbus convinced him that the earth was round, and that there must necessarily be land in the western hemisphere to counterbalance the eastern continent. The maps to be obtained in his day gave but little information respecting the extent of Asia. He imagined that it extended much further east than it really did, or that the coast was lined with large islands extending within a few hundred leagues of Europe. Pieces of wood, strangely carved, had been picked up by sailors in the unknown ocean. Upon one island were found the bodies of two men totally different in appearance from the natives of Europe and Africa. These circumstances confirmed him in his belief, and he sought means of testing its truth. In order to carry out his project effectually he must have men and ships. His first proposals were made to the senate of his native city, but were rejected. His next application was to John II. of Portugal ; who, after drawing out his plan, treacherously sent a vessel on the proposed course under another commander, but happily gained nothing by his baseness. Columbus then sent his brother Bartholomew to Henry VII. of England, but he was captured by pirates, and it was years before he reached London. Being unsuccessful in Portugal, in 1484 Columbus went to Spain, where for a time he supported himself and son by making charts and maps. " At last he succeeded in procuring an interview with Ferdinand, king of Aragon. This cautious monarch, after list- ening to his projects, submitted them to the learned men of the university of Salamanca, by whom they were once more con- demned." After several years Columbus finally obtained an interview with Isabella, the wife of Ferdinand, and queen of Castile and Leon. To enable him to appear at court she sent him about seventy dollars, with which he purchased a mule and suitable clothing. The queen was moved by his arguments, but was unwilling to furnish the required aid. More disheartened than ever, Columbus was on the point of abandoning Spain, when at last, by the advice of wise counsellors, Isabella determined to DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. 3 embark in the enterprise, even if she had to pledge her jewels in order to procure the necessary funds. Columbus was com- missioned as High Admiral and Viceroy of all the countries he might discover, and went to Palos to fit out the expedition. There was great difficulty in finding sailors for such a voyage, but with the aid of the queen three small vessels, none of them being over one hundred tons burden, and ninety men were obtained. The Santa Maria, which bore the flag of Columbus, was the only one that had a deck. The Pinta and Nina were commanded by two brothers by the name of Pinyon. They provided themselves with provisions enough to last one year. The whole expense of the outfit was only £4,000. This little fleet sailed from Palos August 3, 1492. A full sense of the dangers they might encounter seized on the sailors when land faded from their sight, and their fears were gradually increased, till, on the expiration of twenty days without seeing any signs of land, they began to talk of throwing Columbus overboard and returning home. " The variation of the compass had not yet been discovered, and their alarm was greatly height- ened when they observed that the magnetic needle no longer pointed directly north. It was a trying hour for Columbus, but his great mind was equal to the crisis. Explaining the varia- tions of the compass in a manner satisfactory to his followers, though not to himself, he used every means to induce them to prosecute the voyage, now picturing to their minds the riches they would obtain, and now threatening them with the anger of their sovereign. At last both officers and men insisted on return- ing, and Columbus was obliged to promise that unless land appeared within three days he would comply with their demand. The shallowness of the water, the numerous birds of the air, the grass and weeds floating by, a branch that was picked up with berries still fresh upon it, all made him sure that he could give this promise with safety." On the evening of October 11th, the sails were furled, and a close watch kept. About ten o'clock a moving light was discovered by Columbus and several others, and at two in the morning a shout from the Pinta proclaimed the discovery of land, and at daybreak was displayed to the 4 DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. overjoyed adventurers a scene of strange beauty. The land was covered with the forests and gay foliage and blossoms of a tropi- cal clime. The natives thronged from the woods and gazed with wonder and astonishment at the ships, which, with their white sails, they regarded as huge birds hovering over the sea. " Colum- bus was the first to touch the newly discovered shore. Richly attired and with drawn sword, he landed. Kneeling on the sand he kissed the earth and returned thanks to God. When he had taken formal possession of the country in the name of the king and queen of Spain, his followers rendered him homage as vice- roy, and the inhabitants, regarding the Spaniards as a superior race, prostrated themselves at his feet." The land first reached was one of the Bahama islands, to which Columbus gave the name of San Salvador, by which name it is still known. Having learned from the natives that gold was to be obtained further to the south, they soon sailed in that direction and dis- covered Cuba and Hayti. One of his vessels having been wrecked, he left thirty-five of his men in Hayti, and on the 1st of January, 1493, embarked for Spain. A violent storm on the return voyage threatened his frail vessels, and Columbus, fearing his discoveries would be lost to the world, wrote an account of them on parchment, which he secured in a cask and threw into the sea, hoping that the winds and waves might cast it ashore. But he was mercifully spared to make known personally his discoveries. The shattered vessels finally entered the port of Palos in safety, amid the acclamations of the people and the thunder of cannon. Columbus presented himself before the king and queen and laid before them the history of his discoveries, exhibited specimen products of the new world, with the natives whom he had brought with him, and in return was loaded with the highest honors. On the 25th of September, 1493, Columbus started upon his second voyage to the new world. This time he had a fleet of seventeen vessels and one thousand five hundred men. On his arrival at Hayti he found that his colony had been cut off. By their injustice and cruelty to the natives they had provoked them to summary vengeance. After providing for the erection of a fort on this island, Columbus proceeded to explore the surrounding DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. 5 islands. Soon after completing this work he was delighted by the arrival of his brother Bartholomew, whom he had not seen for thirteen years, and who, on returning from his unsuccessful mission to England, was sent by Isabella with supplies to the new world. The followers of Columbus, being disappointed in obtaining gold, began to murmur and complain of his management of affairs, the result of which was, an emissary of his enemies was sent out to examine into it. Columbus returned to Spain and plead his own cause before the throne. He established his inno- cence and was received into favor. In 1498 he made his third voyage, directing his course nearer the equator than he had previously done. During this voyage he discovered the island of Trinidad and the coast of South America, near the mouth of the Orinoco river. In the current from the mouth of this great river his fleet was for a time in great danger. This led him to believe that so mighty a stream must belong to a continent. On his return to his colony on the island of Hayti he found Bovadilla, whom, at the instigation of his enemies, the Spanish sovereign had vested with power to examine into his conduct, and if needful to supersede him in command. Columbus was sent back to Spain in chains. The captain of the vessel, grieved to see so great a discoverer treated in this manner, offered to remove his chains. But Columbus, indignant at the ingratitude of his country, would not allow them to be re- moved, and ordered that they should be buried with him. Every charge made against him he repelled, but his sovereign never had the justice to restore him to his station, and when it became necessary to remove Bovadilla on account of his mismanagement, Ovando was appointed his successor. Though feeling deeply this ingratitude, and also the infirmities of age, in 1502 Columbus set out on a fourth voyage. He still entertained the belief that the land he had discovered formed a part of Asia, which delusion he did not live to have dispelled. The object of this last voyage was to discover a new passage to India by sailing farther west. He explored the coast along the DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. gulf of Darien. But at last, after a succession of disasters in the attempt to reach Hayti, he was wrecked off the coast of Jamaica, where, being nearly reduced to starvation and in danger of attacks from the Indians, he saved himself and his followers by an ingenious stratagem. From his knowledge of astronomy he knew that an eclipse of the moon was to take place, and call- ing the natives around him told them that the Great Spirit was displeased with them on account of their treatment of the white man, and that He would, that night, hide his face from them. When the moon became dark they were convinced of the truth of what he had said, and brought him supplies, and besought him to pray to the Great Spirit to receive them into favor again. After undergoing extraordinary hardships, Columbus finally reached Hayti, and returned to Spain in the summer of 1504. Queen Isabella had died a short time before, and the remaining two years of the great discoverer's life were shrouded in gloom. He died at Valladolid in the 71st year of his age. His chains were put in his coffin as he requested, and his remains now rest in the cathedral of Havana. Encouraged by the success of Columbus, other Spanish navi- gators had found their way to the new world. Among these was Ojeda, in whose company was a well educated Florentine gentle- man who published an interesting description of the lands he had visited. His name was Americo Vespucci. His was the first written account of the western continent, and as it left Columbus out of view, the continent, instead of being called after its real discoverer, was named from this Florentine, America. The early inhabitants of this country were the North Ameri- can Indians, but they, as a nation, have long since passed away, although a remnant still lingers in some of the States and in the Indian territory, and beyond the Rocky mountains. The three oldest towns in the United States are St. Augustine, in Florida, founded by the Spaniards in 1565 ; Jamestown, in Virginia, founded by the English in 1607 ; and Plymouth, in Massachusetts, in 1620, also by the English. CHAPTER II. NEW ENGLAND. MASSACHUSETTS AND RHODE ISLAND. In 1620, that portion of the western continent lying between 40 and 48° north latitude, extending from ocean to ocean, was granted to a commercial company by James I. The first per- manent settlement upon this extensive tract was made by the Puritans, or " Pilgrim Fathers." During the reign of the Roman Catholic Queen, Mary of England, their ancestors had been driven to Holland. While there they learned a different mode of worship, and were char- acterized by a love of civil and religious liberty, and on their return to England refused to become members of the established church. After enduring persecution for upwards of fifty years, they fled to Holland, where they had the liberty to worship God as their consciences dictated. After an absence of eight years they resolved to go to America. In 1620 they returned to England, where they remained about two weeks, when they set sail for America, in the Speed- well. But this vessel was thought, by the commander, unfit for so long a voyage, and they returned to port. On the 6th of September, 1620, one hundred of the passen- gers of the Speedwell entered the Mayflower, and began their voyage across the stormy Atlantic. While on shipboard a body of laws were drawn up, to which every man affixed his name. It was the intention of the Pilgrims to land near the mouth of the Hudson river, but after a long voyage of sixty-three days they were landed on the barren coast of Massachusetts. " Tra- dition says it was the foot of Mary Chilton, a young maiden of 8 COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE the band, that first pressed Forefathers' Rock, as it is still named and honored by their descendants." " The heavy night hung dark, The hills and waters o'er, When a band of exiles moored their bark On the wild New England shore. Aye, call it holy ground, The soil where first they trod ! They have left unstained what there they found, Freedom to worship God. 1 " Hardships and suffering awaited them in their new home. The prospect before them was dreary in the extreme. Exposure and privation, disease and famine prostrated half of their num- ber before a single habitation was commenced. Among the first deaths were those of John Carver their governor, and his wife and child. In the spring only forty-six of their number were living. As the weather became milder hope began to revive. Game was plenty, they tilled the soil, friends in England soon joined them, and the settlement of Plymouth became permanent. During all this time they were kindly treated by the Indians, the most savage of whom had been carried off by a pestilence the previous year. The first Indian they met was Samoset, who entered their village of huts with the cheering salutation : " Wel- come, Englishmen"! He had learned to speak English from previous voyagers. He informed the colonists that they might occupy the land which they had settled. He was engaged as an interpreter, and with his assistance and a few kindly presents, a treaty was made with Massasoit, the chieftain of that region, which was faithfully kept for more than fifty years. Through Massasoit's influence a treaty was made with the Wampanoags, who promised not to interfere with the settlements of the English. During the ten years following the founding of the Plymouth colony, various settlements were made around Massachusetts Bay, at Charlestown, Cambridge, and Salem. Colonists were enabled to emigrate to this country by means of English mer- chants and noblemen forming themselves into companies, and NEW ENGLAND STATES. 9 obtaining from the King grants to settle particular localities in America. These grants were called charters, and granted to the companies holding them certain rights and privileges of com- merce and government. Ships were furnished and colonists sent out by the companies to till the soil and procure fish and furs, the profits on which articles it was expected would recom- pense the company in England for the expense of sending them out. Several gentlemen of family and fortune, belonging to the Massachusetts Bay Company, agreed themselves to go to New England, provided they could carry their charter along with them. This being granted, an independent provincial govern- ment was formed, with John Winthrop as governor. This little fleet of five vessels, on board of which were about three hundred families, embarked for New England on the 8th of April, 1630, and were safely anchored at Charlestown. The water being brackish at this place, they were induced to settle on the south side of Charles river. This new settlement was named Boston, after a city in England, from which some of them had come. During the ensuing winter a scarcity of provisions and the sever- ity of the climate caused much intense suffering. Upwards of two hundred men were laid in their graves. But the survivors were not disheartened, and in the spring their affairs assumed a more flourishing aspect ; the settlement grew rapidly. The in- habitants were noted for their industry and honesty. Buildings^ rose like magic under the united efforts of the mechanics and masons ; vessels were built to traffic with other settlements on the coast ; schools were founded, a printing press erected, a fort was built, mills introduced, and a ferry was established between Boston and Charlestown. The next year after this colony was established, Mr. John Eliot, the first missionary to the Indians, joined them. He visited them in their wigwams, translated the Bible into their language, taught them to read and to worship the true God. A copy of the Bible as he translated it is still preserved, but only 10 COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE the title, " Up Biblum God," meaning the book of God, can now be read. Between the years 1630 and 1636, persecution in England was again revived, driving many wise and able men to the colo- nies. In 1635, three thousand emigrants landed at Boston, among whom was Sir Henry Vane, an intimate friend of the poet Milton. He was soon elected governor. Although the Puritans had left England in order to secure religious liberty, yet they were unwilling to grant the same priv- ilege to others, and every one in the colony was obliged to attend church, and to conform to their mode of worship, in order to escape persecution. Roger Williams, a minister of Salem, was the first to preach liberty and toleration. He believed that every person had a right to worship God as he saw fit, and to withhold this right was bigotry in New England as well as in old England. He had many warm friends and ardent supporters of the doctrine which he advocated, but his views were as much in advance of the majority as to bring on persecution. His enemies daily increased, and he was finally banished from Massachusetts. For fourteen weeks he wandered through the forest, in severe winter weather, sheltered only by the rude wigwam of the Indian. In the spring he was joined by five friends from Boston, and they, together, founded Providence. The religious and political free- dom allowed in this colony soon induced persecuted men of other settlements to fly thither for refuge. Thus originated the first settlement in Rhode Island. The Chief of the Narragansetts became warmly attached to Williams. To this attachment, and the christian spirit of Roger Williams, his persecutors owed their preservation. The Narra- gansetts were preparing to make war with the Boston colony, and he, being made aware of the fact, interceded for his enemies, and they were spared. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 11 In 1639 Newport was founded on the southern extremity of the Isle of Rhodes. Near the site of Newport is a curious stone structure about twenty-four feet in hight, which is evidently of great antiquity, as the Indians could give no information respect- ing its origin. On the northern extremity of the island a settle- ment was made called Portsmouth. The Providence and Rhode Island settlements were separate until 1644, when they obtained a charter, and were united under the name of the Providence and Rhode Island plantations. CONNECTICUT. The Connecticut, so called from its Indian name, which means long river, was first explored by the Dutch, in 1614. They soon established trading posts along the river, and might have carried on a profitable trade with the natives if they had treated them kindly and honorably. But such was not the case. An Indian chief was imprisoned on board of a Dutch vessel, and a ransom of one hundred and forty fathoms of wampum had to be paid by his tribe to procure his release. In 1630, the valley of the Connecticut was granted to the Earl of Warwick, who transferred it to Lord Say-and-Seale and Lord Brook. During the next six years a number of flourish- ing villages had sprung up on the banks of the Connecticut, among which were Windsor, Hartford, Saybrook and Weathers- field. Two years later, New Haven, one of the loveliest cities in all New England, was founded by John Davenport, Theodore Eaton, and their followers. For a time the Dutch endeavored to prevent the English from settling this valley, which they claimed as their territory. They purchased, from the Indians, the land in the vicinity of Hartford, erected a fort and placed two cannon upon it. But the English ascended the river and planted their colonies, and organized their government. In April, 1636, the first court assembled at Hartford. 12 COLONIAL HISTOEY OF THE The Indians becoming jealous of the power of the white men, began to show signs of hostilities. They began by kidnapping children, murdering families in the outskirts of Saybrook, and capturing a trading vessel, plundering her and murdering the captain. After these depredations, the Connecticut colonies declared war, which they began with a band of ninety men, twenty of which were from the Massachusetts colony. The most hostile of the tribes were the Pequods, numbering about two thousand warriors. Their principal village was attacked by the English, on the 26th of May, just before sun- rise. They approached cautiously, and the Indians relying on their number, their bows and arrows, had set no sentry, and were first made aware of the presence of their enemies by the barking of a dog. In great confusion they rallied with bow and arrow for the fight, and defended themselves with great bravery, but a blazing brand was thrown among the mats with which one of the wigwams was covered, and their village was soon in ashes. The colonists formed a circle around the burning huts and slew them without mercy, as they were driven into sight by the fire. Only two of the English were lost, and about six hundred Pequods, men, women, and children were slain. The next morning about three hundred Pequods arrived from another village. After a desperate battle two hundred of them surrend- ered to the English. They were either sold into slavery or incorporated into other friendly tribes, and the powerful Pequod nation became extinct. The other hostile tribes were filled with consternation and awe, and the colonies were left unmolested for forty years. After the first victory the Narragansetts had lent their aid to the English ; but the latter were guilty of gross ingratitude to the Narragansett chief, Miantonomah, for his services. Hostili- ties being again renewed between the Narragansetts and Mohe- gans, Miantonomah was captured. " Let him be delivered to his old enemy, Uncuss," said the ungrateful men whom he had assisted ; and the Mohegan chief, in the presence of two white NEW ENGLAND STATES. 13 men tomahawked him, and cutting a piece of quivering flesh from his victim's shoulder, ate it, declaring it the most delicious morsel he had ever tasted. Connecticut, now safe from the hostilities of the savage, grew and prospered wonderfully. It was blessed with wise and God- fearing governors. The Bible was adopted as a rule of public action, and no one had a right to vote or hold public office who was not a church member. In 1639, a convention of the settlers of Hartford, Windsor and Wethersfield, met at Hartford, and a written constitution, containing very liberal provisions, was adopted. The governor and legislative body were elected annually by the people. Laws could be made and repealed only by the General Assembly. Connecticut was governed by this constitution for more than one hundred and fifty years. The New Haven colony soon followed the wise example of the Connecticut colony, and Theophilus Eaton was elected governor. The merchants of New Haven endeavored to found a commercial colony, but heavy losses induced them to abandon the project, and they turned their attention to agriculture. MAINE AND NEW HAMPSHIRE. The territory which now constitutes the States of Maine and New Hampshire, was divided between Sir Ferdinand Gorges, John Mason, and others. In 1623, the settlement of New Hamp- shire was commenced at Dover and Portsmouth by the gentle- men to whom the country had been granted. Mason became sole proprietor of a large portion of the territory lying between the Merrimac and Piscataqua. He named it New Hampshire, and founded the city of Portsmouth. Other settlements were made, and trading houses established along the coast as far as Portland. These settlements formed a coalition with the Massachusetts colony in 1641, and so continued till 1679, when it became a royal province, with a governor and council appointed by the king. In 1689, it renewed its connection with Massa- chusetts. It was for a short time attached to New York. In 14 COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE 1741, it became a separate province, and remained so until the revolution. This territory was much harrassed by the Indians during its early history. The town of Dover was reduced to ashes, and many of the citizens massacred in 1689. A settle- ment was made in Maine as early as 1607, at the present site of Pippensburg, but it was not permanent. The New Hampshire settlements extended themselves into Maine as early as 1625. Ten years later a French armed vessel took possession of a trading station on the Penobscot, and the colonists were obliged to return to Plymouth. In 1652, Maine was annexed to Massa- chusetts as far as the Kennebeck river. In 1712 Maine passed into the hands of the English by the treaty of Utrecht. From this time until 1820, its history is blended with that of Massa- chusetts, to which it was attached. THE UNION OF THE COLONIES. The New England colonies began about this time to feel the necessity of union. They were threatened by the Indians on one side, and the Dutch and French on the other, which, with the attempts in England to take away their charters, led them to unite. This first confederation of New England colonies took place in 1643. It lasted fifty years, and when broken up by the loss of their charters, the colonists still cherished a desire for union. The colonies forming this union were Plymouth, Mass- achusetts Bay, New Haven, and Connecticut, under the name of " The United Colonies of New England." At this time the popu- lation numbered about twenty thousand, scattered through fifty villages. Each colony retained the control of its own territory; but all matters of common interest and questions of war and peace were decided by a council consisting of two commissioners from each. In times of war each colony was to furnish men and money in proportion to its population. This confederacy may be considered as the germ of the American union. Rhode Island refusing to be included in the Plymouth colony was not admitted to the confederation. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 15 DOMESTIC LIFE, CHARACTER, AND LAWS OP THE PURITANS. Their condition, of course, was materially the same as that of the English people at that time. The use of chimneys was becoming common, though opposed by some who thought smoke improved their health and hardened the timbers of their houses. Pewter dishes and spoons were taking the place of wooden ones. Boards and unhewn logs were mostly used in building. Rye, barley and oats were the principal food, and the taste of meat was hardly known in thousands of families. The condition of the people in Massachusetts was considerably better than this. After the first few years of scarcity they lived more comfortably and independently than the same class in the old world. The Puritans of New England imbibed a strong aversion to the manners and customs of those who had persecuted them. They opposed the use of veils, wigs, silken hoods and scarfs, and discountenanced all frivolous fashions in dress, and forbade the observance of Christmas. Comparing themselves to the Israel- ites of old, they tried to conform to the laws and habits of the chosen people who fled from bondage in Egypt to an unknown wilderness. Like them, their Sabbath began at the going down of the sun on Saturday evening, and was observed with the utmost strictness. Prayers and sermons were esteemed accord- ing to their length, and the children and servants were regularly catechised. The laws condemned all wars that were not defensive, and penalties were attached to gambling, intemperance, and other immoralities. Interest on loaned money was forbidden, and blasphemy and idolatry were punished with death. Persecuted Christians, of their own faith, were supported for a time at the public expense ; but priests, Jesuits and Quakers shared the hatred of the Puritans, and were forbidden to set foot within their limits. The Quakers were first known as a religious body in England in 1644. They were followers of George Fox. They believed that God communicated directly with the spirits of men, and considered all human interference in religious matters as wrong, 16 COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE and boldly proclaimed that "God was come to teach his people himself." They practiced the utmost simplicity in dress and language. They would neither bear arms nor take an oath. They denounced ceremonies, pleasures and show, and abhorred titles ; and generally addressed others by the appellation of Friends. Anxious to propagate their religion, they had turned their eyes to America, but here they met with persecution as well as in England. The Puritans seemed to have forgotten their own sufferings, and displayed the same persecuting spirit from which they had themselves fled. If one of the Quakers was found in their colonies he was to lose an ear, and if he re- turned the other ear was forfeited, and for a third offense his tongue was to be pierced with a red-hot iron. But they gloried in their persecutions. Fines, whippings and tortures could not keep them away. Finally the sentence of death was pronounced on all that should appear the second time in the colonies. Three men and one woman were victims of this cruel law. This law was finally repealed, and the Quakers being whipped out of the colony, the excitement gradually died away. The Puritans were only carrying out the intolerant principles that were being practiced in every Christian country. To Roger Williams and Lord Baltimore belongs the honor of first rising above the bigotry of the age. KING PHILIP'S WAR. The Puritans, during the long struggle between Charles I. and his parliament, had sided against the king, and were therefore treated with great liberality and favor when Cromwell assumed the government. In 1658 Cromwell died, and Charles II. was restored to the throne of England. The first vessel that left for the colonies after this event brought over three of the regicides, Goffe, Whalley, and Dixwell. They found refuge in the house of Mr. Russel, minister of Hadley, where they lived in profound con- cealment. The Massachusetts colonists were obliged to acknowledge the authority of the new sovereign of England. A public address NEW ENGLAND STATES. 17 was presented to his majesty, in which they appealed to him for a continuation of their liberties, and pardon for having sided against his father. The king confirmed their charter and par- doned past offenses, but required the Puritans to extend the right of voting to those who were not church members, to take the oath of allegiance, and to tolerate the church of England. Scarcely were these troubles ended when the colonists were involved in a long and bloody war known as King Philip's war. Philip was the younger of the two sons of Massasoit. He had become hostile to the English on account of the death of his brother, which he ascribed to them. Alexander had died of a fever brought on by mortification at being arrested and impris- oned by the English. Philip was the most powerful sachem of the New England tribes, and determined to avenge the death of his brother. The first hostile deed was the murder of nine men at Swanzy, of the Plymouth colony. All the horrors of the Pequod were renewed, and on a much larger scale. The mother retired to rest to be awakened at midnight by the dreadful war- whoop, to see her children cut down by the merciless tomahawk. The family on their way to church were exposed to the attacks of a cruel and cunning enemy. Goffe, the regicide, had been a military commander. Looking from the window of his hiding place, on a sabbath day, after the people were collected for pub- lic worship, he saw a body of ambushed Indians stealing upon them. He suddenly made his appearance before the gathering worshippers, his white hair and beard and loose garments stream- ing to the winds. " He gave the alarm and word of command, and the men already armed, at once formed and bore down upon the foe. After they had conquered they looked around for their preserver, but he had vanished, and they fully believed an angel was sent for their deliverance." When this war ended twenty-five villages were in ruins and one white family in every twenty had been burned out. But the fate of the Indians during this struggle was more terrible than that of the v whites. They often perished in their burning wig- wams. Many were made prisoners and sold into slavery, some 2 18 COLONIAL HISTORY OF THE wandered away and joined other tribes, and when King Philip was shot he was almost the last of his tribe. In 1677 the charter struggle was again commenced. The king declared that Massachusetts had no jurisdiction over the provinces of Maine and New Hampshire. Maine was purchased by a Boston merchant for about six thousand dollars, and thus became a part of Massachusetts. New Hampshire was made a royal province, and a governor and council were appointed. The colonists were obliged to use the liturgy of the English church and observe its fasts and fes- tivals. King Charles II. also demanded that Massachusetts should submit to laws passed in the English parliament, oppres- sing the commerce of the infant colonies. Willing to yield everything but their charter, they, by an act passed in their own general court, bound themselves to obey the English laws of trade. They would willingly and cheerfully give up Maine and everything except the right of " government within themselves," which their charter granted. This struggle was at its heigh when Charles II. died, and the Roman Catholic James II. ascended the throne. He declared there should be no free gov- ernments in his dominions, and determined to take away from the New England colonies their charters. Sir Edmond Andros was chosen to carry this plan into effect, and was appointed governor of the New England province. On the 30th of December, 1686, Sir Edmond Andros landed at Boston. He demanded the charters, and those of Massachusetts and Rhode Island were surrendered. He then proceeded across the country to Connecticut with an armed force, determined to take away their liberty ; but the Connecticut people were not wanting in shrewdness ; the charter was not immediately pre- sented but the subject discussed until evening, when the lights were suddenly put out, and during the darkness the charter was carried off by William Wadsworth, and hid in the hollow of an old oak tree. Being unable to obtain the charter, Andros inquired for the records of the colony wrote under them the Latin word "finis," which means the end. Sir ]£dmond began NEW ENGLAND STATES. 19 his career with the most flattering professions of his regard to the safety and happiness of the people, but " Nero concealed his tyrannical disposition more years than Sir Edmond did months." But the day of his power was soon over. In April, 1689, news reached the colonies that James II. had been driven from the throne, and that Mary and William had been placed upon it. All Boston was aroused ; companies marched through the streets with drums and colors, and Governor Andros was thrown into prison. Joy was universal throughout the colonies ; the general court assembled ; the charter oak yielded its precious treasure, and "finis " was erased from the records. In 1688 the union of the Connecticut and Massachusetts col- onies was broken up. Rhode Island and Connecticut were per- mitted to keep their charters, but Massachusetts by a new char- ter was made a royal province with a governor appointed by the king. New Hampshire was separate from Massachusetts and had also a royal governor. The principal event in New England between the years 1689 and 1700 was a war carried on with the French and Indians. When King William ascended the throne he was at war with Louis XIV. of France. This was soon extended to the French and English colonies in America. In conducting this war the French called to their assistance the services of the Indians. Nova Scotia was given up to the French, and peace was made between the countries in 1697. The first war of the eighteenth century was Queen Anne's war. The cruelties practiced in King William's war were repeated in this. The town of Deerfield, in Massachusetts, wa3 attacked in February, 1704, by a party of two hundred French and one hundred and forty-two Indians. They concealed them- selves in a pine forest until midnight ; then, with their fearful warwhoop they fell upon the defenseless village. A dreadful scene ensued ; the village was burned, forty-seven were killed and one hundred and twelve carried into captivity. A treaty of peace was made in 1713, called, from the place in Holland where it was signed, the peace of Utrecht. For thirty years succeeding 20 COLONIAL HISTORY OF the close of Queen Anne's war the colonists enjoyed compar- ative repose. In 1774 France again declared hostility to England, and the colonies prepared to commence the contest known in America as King George's war. The principal event of this war in Amer- ica was the capture of the fortress of Louisburg, on the island of Cape Breton. This fortress had been constructed by the French at an expense of five and a half millions of dollars. In 1748 a treaty of peace was concluded at Aix-la-Chapelle, in Germany, when it was agreed that all prisoners should be released and all acquisitions of property or territory were to be restored. But soon disputes about local boundaries began, and it was not long before these two nations were involved in another bloody struggle for dominion in the new world. THE MIDDLE STATES. 21 CHAPTER III. THE MIDDLE STATES- At the time of the early settlement of America nearly all the nations of Europe were at war with each other on account of different religious opinions. To escape persecution the English Quaker, the French Huguenot, and many from the shores of the Baltic and the banks of the Danube and Rhine sought refuge on the banks of the Hudson and Delaware. Henry Hudson, while exploring the eastern coast of America, seeking for a north-west passage to India, sailed up the river which now bears his name. His little ship, called the Half Moon, was the first European sail ever borne upon its waters. For fifteen years no regular attempt at settlement was made. The island of Manhattan, consisting of twenty-two thousand acres, was purchased in 1624 by the Dutch from the Indians, for about twenty-four dollars. This island, called New Amster- dam, contained a few Dutch cottages with thatched roofs and wooden chimneys. It is now the wealthy and populous city of New York. The country claimed by the Dutch was called New Nether- lands. To encourage emigration to New Netherlands, the Dutch West India company offered every man who, in four years, would plant a colony of fifty souls, a tract of land six- teen miles in length, and as wide as they required, with the privilege of governing all who settled upon it. Van Swiller was appointed governor in 1633, and from the beginning had difficul- ties with the English colonies on the Connecticut river. In 1638 he was succeeded in office by Sir William Kieft, who was a bold and unprincipled man, and soon involved his colony in serious troubles. The Indians, excited by the rum which they had purchased from the Hollanders, committed various trespasses which Kieft punished severely. An Indian warrior had been made drunk and robbed, and, on returning to a sense of his injuries, murdered two of the Dutch. About this time a band of Indians, driven by the Mohawks, sought shelter with the 22 COLONIAL HISTORY OF Hackensacks, on the Hudson, and solicited the protection of the Dutch. But Kieft could not be satisfied without a flow of blood. He sent a party of his countrymen across the river in the night, who fell upon the unsuspecting fugitives, and in the general massacre, women and children, old and sick, shared the same cruel fate. The fiery hatred and vengeance of all the surround- ing tribes was aroused, and a desperate and bloody war was the result. It was for a time feared that every Hollander would be swept from the country. Roger Williams using his influence in behalf of peace, hostilities were for a time suspended. But the war was afterward renewed, and for two years the colony suffered dreadfully. John Underhill was made captain of their forces. He successfully beat back and defeated the Indians. The river Indians were adopted into the Mohawk tribe, and a treaty of peace was made with the Dutch. Kieft was succeeded by Peter Stuyvesant, an eminent soldier, and possessed of every requisite for an efficient governor. He was kind and just in his treatment to the Indians ; settled bound- ary disputes, granted the colony a more liberal system of trade, and promoted its interests. But while he was removing all causes for trouble with his neighbors, there was a power at work within his own colony which caused him much anxiety and uneasiness. The people had for a number of years shown an ardent desire for greater freedom. Stuyvesant was an aristocrat and opposed to democracy. He soon found himself at variance with his peo- ple. At last, without the approbation of their governor, a gen- eral assembly of two deputies from each village was convened for the purpose of asserting the rights of the people. Taxation was resisted, and a willingness expressed to bear English rule, if they might enjoy English liberty. The change of government was not long delayed. The whole territory of New Netherlands had been granted by Charles II. of England, to his brother James, Duke of York, and the name of New Amsterdam was changed to New York, in honor of the Duke, and the name of Albany was given to the settlement on the Hudson, called by the Dutch Fort Orange. THE MIDDLE STATES. 23 The people of New York soon perceived that a change of gov- ernment did not bring with it the blessings they had hoped. In the hope of having a representative government they were dis- appointed, and the taxes to support the government were increased. War was declared between England and Holland in 1672. Holland being successful, New York again passed into the hands of the Dutch. This state of things, however, lasted but about fifteen months, when New York was restored to the English, in whose possession it remained until the time of the revolution. All the Atlantic coast, now from Maine to Georgia, belonged to the English. NEW JERSEY. In 1623 the territory between the Hudson and the Delaware was granted to Lords Berkeley and Carteret by the Duke of York. Carteret's share consisted of the territory included in the state of New Jersey. Elizabethtown, then consisting of four houses, became the capital of the province. At the end of ten years Berkeley sold his province to the Friends, a large number of whom settled there the next year. They purchased lands from the Indians, who thus expressed their kind welcome and desire for peace : " You are brothers, and we will live like brothers with you. We will have a broad path for you and us to walk in. If an Englishman fall asleep in this path, the Indian shall pass him by and say : He is an English- man ; he is asleep ; let him alone. The path shall be plain ; there shall not be in it a stump to hurt the feet." East Jersey also fell into the possession of the Friends, being purchased by William Penn and eleven of his brethren. They obtained a charter and appointed Robert Barclay governor for life. When the Duke of York ascended to the throne, he consid- ered his contracts as duke not binding upon his honor as king. Through the instrumentality of Andros he endeavored to annul the American charters. He succeeded in subverting the govern- ments of several, among which were the Jerseys. New Jersey from this period presents but few items of interest up to the time the independence of the colonies was declared, in 1776. 24 COLONIAL HISTORY OF PENNSYLVANIA. Pennsylvania is the only instance of an American colony founded without bloodshed. It was intended to he an asylum for the persecuted English Friends. William Penn was the only son of an English admiral, who had won distinction by his conquest of Jamaica, and brilliant achievements during the war with Holland. He was born in 1644. While a student at Oxford, and at the age of sixteen, he became interested in the doctrines of the Quakers, for which he was expelled from the university. This displeased his father, who beat him and turned him out of doors, but afterwards for- gave him, and sent him to travel on the continent, in the hope that by intercourse with the world his opinions would be changed. At the age of twenty-two he was sent by his father to Ireland on business, and while there became so impressed by the preach- ing of Thomas Loe, the Quaker minister, that he joined their society, and became so firm a convert that all his father's reproaches, and even a second expulsion from home could not change his faith. His firmness and gentleness afterward won for him the admiration and forgiveness of his father. During the next three years he was three times imprisoned for his religion and pleading the cause of his brethren. At one time a jury was starved two days and nights to compel them to con- vict him. They insisted on returning a verdict of acquittal, for which they were fined. On his release from imprisonment, he, with several others of his persuasion, embarked for Holland, distributed tracts and preached to the people. On his return to England he found the condition of the Friends as suffering as ever, and determined to found a free and happy home for them in the new world. In 1681 he obtained a tract of land on the western bank of the Delaware river, in payment of a claim against the government for sixteen thousand pounds, left him by his father. The king gave to this territory the name of Pennsylvania, " the woody land of Penn." Within the domain granted to Penn were some Swede and Dutch settlements. These he had no desire to remove. He sent THE MIDDLE STATES. 25 them a copy of his grant, and a message informing them that he had no intention of usurping their rights, but intended they should be governed by their own laws. The year before Penn was able to join his colony, he sent out a number of emigrants with instructions for building a city. He did not wish it to be a crowded city with the pure air and light of heaven shut out, but to each house there was to be a large garden attached, so that it might be a " faire greene coun- try towne." In November of the year 1682, Penn, with a hundred settlers, sailed for the new world in the ship Welcome. During the long voyage of nine weeks thirty of his companions died of small pox. He was warmly welcomed on his arrival by the Friends who had preceded him. He sailed up the Delaware, on the banks of which he determined to found his city. The ground was pur- chased from the Swedes. The city thus commenced was called Philadelphia, or city of Brotherly Love. Soon after this Penn made his famous treaty with the Indians. They met under a large elm tree in what is now called Kensing- ton. This tree was preserved until 1810 when it was blown down during a severe storm. A monument, which has since been erected, marks the place where it stood. Here, beside the Del- aware, Penn met the chieftains. The old warriors took their seats on the ground in the form of a half moon, while the younger ones arranged themselves behind in a similar form. Their new governor, who had inspired their confidence by means of a few presents, occupied the central space before them. " We meet," said he, "on the broad pathway of good faith and good will. I will not call you children, for parents sometimes chide their children too severely ; nor brothers only, for brothers differ. The friendship between me and you I will not compare to a chain, for that the rains might rust or the falling tree might break. We are the same as if one man's body were divided into two parts. We are one flesh and one blood." The Indians trusted him and presented him with a belt of wampum as an emblem of friendship. " We will live," said they, " with William Penn and his children so long as the sun and 26 COLONIAL HISTORY OF moon shall endure." This treaty of peace between the English Quaker and the red man of the forest was never violated. While other white settlements suffered severely from Indian wars, "not a drop of Quaker blood was ever shed by an Indian." The government of Pennsylvania was republican. An assem- bly, composed of six members from each county, was organized. All sects were tolerated. Every freeman could vote and hold office, who believed in God and abstained from work on the Sab- bath. This peaceful colony grew and prospered. In 1683 Phil- adelphia consisted of four cottages, but in two years the houses numbered six hundred. It grew more in three years than New York did in fifty. DELAWARE. In 1631 the Dutch planted a feeble settlement near the present site of Lewiston, but difficulties with the natives had excited savage vengeance, and they exterminated the Dutch colony. Gustavus Adolphus, the monarch of Sweden, determined to plant a colony in America, which should be an asylum for per- secuted Christians. He died before his plans were carried out. When his daughter, Christiana, succeeded to the throne, the minister, Oxenstiern, accomplished the noble purpose which her father had formed. A church and fort were built on the site of Wilmington. The place was called Christiana, in honor of their young queen. Their territory was named New Sweden. The jealousy of the Dutch was aroused, and they resolved to expel or subdue the Swedes. For a few years Delaware was in the possession of the Dutch, although the inhabitants were Swedes. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 27 CHAPTER IV. THE SOUTHERN STATES. MARYLAND. In England, during the reign of King James, the Puritans were subjected to very severe penalties on account of their relig- ious belief. But, although the king persecuted the Puritans for non-conformity with the rites and views of the English church, he, on the other hand, oppressed the Roman Catholics still more severely ; and the Puritans also, as they became more numerous and increased in influence, raised a fierce outcry against the Romanists, persecuting them as far as they were able, even while they were themselves suffering persecution at the hands of King James and the supporters of the English church. The Roman Catholics, being thus oppressed on both sides, turned, in their distress, to America, which was, even at that early day, an asy- lum for the oppressed. George Calvert, one of the most influential of the Roman Catholics, was a leading member of the London company, and he also held the office of Secretary of State at the time of the embarkation of the Pilgrims for America. For his services to his country and sovereign, he was, in 1621, created an Irish peer, with the title of Lord Baltimore. In 1628, Lord Baltimore went to Virginia with the view of establishing a Roman Catholic colony there, but he found the Virginians hostile to the cause, opposing it as violently as the king himself. He then went beyond the Potomac, where he found a beautiful country which was as yet unoccupied. He went back to England and applied for a charter to establish a colony there. The charter was granted by Charles I. (who had ascended the throne in 1625,) after the death of Lord Baltimore, to his son Cecil, who had inherited his title and property. The province was called Maryland, in honor of the Catholic queen, Henrietta Maria. The first company of emigrants, with Leonard Calvert, brother of Cecil, as their governor, arrived in March, 1634. They 28 COLONIAL HISTOKY OF sailed up the Chesapeake and purchased a village of the Indians, which they named St. Mary. By their honesty in paying for their land, they secured the friendship of the Indians, and heing well supplied with the necessaries of life, the colony prospered. Some time previous to the establishment of this colony, Wil- liam Clayborne had obtained a license from the king to traffic with the Indians, and he, in company with others, had estab- lished trading stations at different points along the Chesapeake. Clayborne and his followers denied the authority of Lord Balti- more, and collected on the eastern border of Maryland, resolved to sustain their claims at all hazards. Their obstinacy caused some trouble, but Baltimore sent a force against them, which, after a severe skirmish, succeeded in making the insurgents prisoners. Clayborne's property was confiscated, and he was sent to England to answer to a charge of treason. The first legislative assembly in Maryland was held at St. Mary in 1635. At this time every freeman was entitled to a voice in the enactment of laws, and it was not until 1639 that a representative government was established. At first each county chose as many representatives as it pleased, while the proprietor appointed others, but afterwards the counties were confined to four each, and the city of Annapolis was allowed two. Although the Indians were at first amicably disposed towards the Maryland colony, they afterwards became jealous of their increasing power and began to harass them in many ways. The whites at last determined to endure their encroachments no longer, and declared war against them. This war lasted from 1642 to 1645, when peace was again restored. But now dis- turbances came in another direction. During this same year, William Clayborne, having been acquitted of the charge of trea- son in England, returned to Maryland determined on revenge. He infused a spirit of rebellion into some of the colonists, and his party became so powerful that the governor was obliged to flee into Virginia, where he remained a year and a half before the rebellion was quelled, and he was permitted to resume his office. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 29 The colony went on from this time with but little disturbance until 1654, when Cromwell became Protector of England. By this time the Protestants were greater in numbers and influence than the Romanists in Maryland, and, instigated by Clayborne they forgot the generosity of Baltimore in allowing them relig- ious freedom, and passed a law withdrawing the protection of the laws of Maryland from the Catholics. At this the Catholics raised the standard of rebellion. A civil war was begun which lasted, with occasional interruptions, until 1691, when an end was put to the disturbances by King William III. who made Maryland a royal province, thus depriving Lord Baltimore of his rights as proprietor. Maryland continued to be a royal province until 1716, when the rights of Lord Balti- more were again recognized, and the colony was restored to an heir who had embraced the Protestant religion. The original form of representative government was now again established, and Maryland grew and prospered under wise governors until the beginning of the revolutionary war. VIRGINIA. In 1584, after an unsuccessful attempt by Sir Humphrey Gil- bert, an English nobleman, to explore the coast of America from St. Johns, Newfoundland, southward, his step-brother, Sir Wal- ter Raleigh, obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth which granted to him all lands which he might discover in America, between the Delaware and Santee rivers. He sent out two men, named Arthur Barlow and Philip Amidas, to explore the Amer- ican coast. After taking possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, they, in a few weeks, returned to England with the most animated statements concerning the country. Upon hearing their glowing descriptions, the queen pronounced this one of the most illustrious events of her reign, and in remem- brance of her unmarried state, she gave to the newly discovered A region the name of Virginia. Some time after this a strife ensued between England and France respecting the possession of the new territory, which did not end until 1604. The English then claimed a tract of country 30 COLONIAL HISTORY OF extending from Halifax, Nova Scotia, on the north, to Cape Fear, North Carolina, on the south. A district, extending from the mouth of the Potomac river to Cape Fear, was granted to an association of merchants and noblemen, a majority of whom were residents of London. This association was called the Lon- don company. The first company of emigrants to Virginia under the auspices of the London company, left England in December, 1606, in three vessels, commanded by Captain Christopher Newport. The colonists numbered one hundred and five, but in all that number there were but " twelve laborers and a few mechanics." The remainder of them were dissolute and indolent men, not at all fitted for an undertaking such as that in which they had embarked. These men left England with no charter permitting them to govern themselves, but they were, on the contrary, to be gov- erned by a council of seven from the company in England. In lesser affairs they were to be ruled by a subordinate council chosen from their number by the council at home. The colon- ists were not to know until they reached their destination who composed this subordinate council, for their names and instruc- tions were placed in a sealed box which they were commanded not to open until they reached Virginia. Thus, when, on board the vessels, any disputes arose between the colonists, there was no one who could check the disturbance and re-establish concord. Upon arriving at the American coast, the vessels were driven by a storm into Chesapeake Bay. They gave to the two capes, at the entrance of the bay, the names of Charles and Henry, in honor of the sons of King James. They soon entered the James river, which they named in honor of the king, and about fifty miles up the river they landed on the 23d of May, 1607, and commenced the settlement which they called Jamestown. According to the instructions contained in the sealed box which the colonists brought to America with them, Edward Maria Wingfield was their first governor. The colonists began to suf- fer from want in a few weeks, as some of their provisions had been spoiled while they were on their way, and the rest had been THE SOUTHERN STATES. 31 consumed. They had not planted any grain upon their arrival, and as the Indian tribes adjoining their settlement showed signs of hostility, they were in a very deplorable condition. In addi- tion to the famine and hostility of the Indians, the extreme dampness of the climate, together with the insufferable warmth, carried away a great many of them, so that at the close of the summer but one half of their number were living. At this time they discovered that their governor was living bountifully on some private stores, and also making preparations to leave the colony and flee to the West Indies. They imme- diately deposed him, and chose Ratcliffe as his successor. Rat- cliffe, however, proving inefficient, the settlers looked to Captain John Smith, who was, in reality, the ablest man among them, but whom they had before treated unkindly on account of envy. Smith assumed the reins of government, and soon, by his in- domitable energy, restored order in the colony, and compelled the Indians to supply them with food. The autumn also brought plentiful supplies of wild game, so that the colony again began to prosper. Smith, taking advantage of the prosperous condition of the colony, started out with a few companions on a tour of explora- tion. He ascended the Chickahominy river fifty miles, then, leaving the boat, he, with two of his companions plunged into the forest. They were soon surrounded by a band of Indians who slew his companions and made him a captive. They exhib- ited him in several of their settlements, and then took him before Powhatan, the chief of their tribe. Here, a council of warriors condemned him to death. In accordance with this decision, he was led out to execution, his arms were pinioned and his head was laid upon the stone. The clubs of the Indians were raised to strike, when Pocahontas, the loved and only child of Powhatan, threw herself upon the prisoner and entreated her father not to slay him. The chief granted her prayer, and, by this circumstance, the Indians were changed from enemies to friends, as they believed him to be under the protection of some powerful Manitou or guardian angel. 32 COLONIAL HISTORY OF They immediately made a treaty with him, and sent a guard of twelve men to escort him back to Jamestown in safety. Upon Smith's return he found every thing in disorder in the colony. The colonists were an improvident and lazy set of men, and their number was increased early in 1608. At this time, Captain Newport, who had returned to England shortly after the arrival of the first company of immigrants at Jamestown, arrived with one hundred and twenty men. These men were as idle and dissolute as those who had preceded them. Soon after their arrival some glittering particles were discovered in the earth near Jamestown which were mistaken for gold, and, in spite of Smith's remonstrances, the colonists bestowed all their labor upon it, and indulged in dreams of wealth. Smith soon became disgusted with them, and, with a few men, went on another tour of exploration. They sailed up the Chesapeake bay and Poto- mac river in an open boat. They also traveled through the forests, and made treaties with several Indian tribes. They traveled three thousand miles in three months, and on their return Smith constructed a very accurate map of the country. When Smith returned from his second trip he was made pres- ident of the council at Jamestown. He did all in his power to turn the attention of the settlers from seeking gold to agricul- ture. He met with success in a degree, but the colonists were none of them accustomed to such labor, and he found it a hard task to keep them from idleness. He wrote to the Supreme Council in England, entreating them to " send but thirty car- penters, husbandmen, gardeners, fishermen, blacksmiths, masons, and diggers of trees' roots, rather than a thousand " of such as were then there. They were obliged to depend upon the Indians for a greater portion of their food. In June, 1609, the London company obtained a new charter, giving them more extended advantages. By it, the Supreme Council in England was furnished with the right to fill any vacancies which might occur in its own body, and also to choose a governor for Virginia. This governor was to be vested with absolute power, having at his disposal the property and even the lives of the colonists. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 33 Under the new charter the Supreme Council appointed Lord Delaware governor of Virginia for life. Not being able to go immediately to Virginia, he sent Captain Christopher Newport, Sir George Somers, and Sir Thomas Gates, authorizing them to govern the colony until his arrival. They left England on the 12th of June, 1609, with nine ships and over five hundred emigrants. When they had come near to the coast, the fleet was scattered by a hurricane, and the vessel which contained the three com- missioners was wrecked on the Bermuda islands. The majority of the emigrants, however, reached Jamestown in safety. The new settlers were as dissolute and improvident as the others, and caused Smith considerable trouble. He, however, ruled the settlement until the close of the year, when, having met with a severe accident, he was obliged to return to England for surgical attendance. As soon as the colonists were freed from the control of Smith, they returned to their old habits of idleness. Their supply of food being soon consumed, they were in a deplorable condition, and as Smith was the only man whom the Indians respected, they would not supply the settlers any longer. On the contrary, soon after his departure they began to evince signs of hostility, and, reading their own fate in the growth and increasing power of the whites, they formed a plan for exterminating them. This plan, however, was defeated by Pocahontas, who remained friendly to the English, and revealed it to them. In June, 1610, one year from the time of their departure from England, the commissioners, who had fitted up a vessel on the island where they were wrecked, arrived at Jamestown. But, instead of being met and welcomed by a flourishing colony, as they had expected, they were received by a few starving creatures ; for, of the five hundred left by Smith six months before, only sixty were now living. They immediately resolved to leave the town where they had suffered so much, and, had it not been for the interference of Sir Thomas Gates, they would have set fire to the settlement. They left the settlement in four 3 : < Q0L0H1 vi. UBSOll QI little vessels, and I more Wretched or dejected company than those who Boated down tho James riw on tho ITih of dune. 1610, could not well bo imagined. On tho following morning, when they had nearly reached tho mouth of tho river, their sor- row Was turned into JO J OB mooting thoir now governor, Lord with more immigrants and an abund- ant supply of provisions. They immediately returned to Junes- .. and that night tho air was rosonant with songs of praise to tho liivor of all good. Under tho wise administration of Lord Delaware, tho colony prospered, but ho was obliged, on account of ill health, to return to England in March of tho following year. Sir Thomas Gates - then appoint r of ^ • _ nia, and ho arrivod dura g tho month of September following, with six ships, three hundred immigrants;, one hundred kino, and an abundant supply of provi- sions. The settlers greeted him gladly, and under his govern- ment the little colony flourished greatly. A r was granted to the London company in 1612. By it the power of the king over the council and colony abrogated, and the Supreme Council in England was also abol- ished. The whole company, as a body, made laws and elected the colony. The settlers were contented, although y had no voice in the government. They acquiesced in all the measures taken and decisions made by the company, and there were about a thousand English settlers in Virginia at tho i 1618. c since the departure of Smith tho Indians had been hos- tile to the colonist* in V During the fore part of the .- 1613, Pocahontas, who was dearly loved by her father, was kidnapped by a - _ part] from the white settlement and taken to Jamestown. T 9 ] rty s e her. hoping that Fow- - m for her release, or at least eon- f peace : but. on the contrary, he was oxasper- ; .. and made immediate preparations for war. This threatened evil was. boa erted by Pocahontas and a young English- man by the name of John Rolfo. between whom a mutual attaeh- t had sprung up. - was educated in the language THE SOUTHERN and religion of the English, and in April, ' I rite of baptism, and was joined in marri g ^fe. Powhatan gave : to this union, ano (feat time until his death he was a friend to the English. The colony now began to prosper, and * great many rle came from England an - : LinVirg .a. In this year also, the people first held a repr the intercession of George Yeardley, who was then governor, they were granted a share in the enact: .aws for On the 28th of Jane, in this ;■ -.- held the first represen- tative assembly at Ja. Virginia was divided in* boroughs, from each of which two representatives were chx - These representatives were called bur^- the assembly consisted of them together with the governor and his council. After two years they obtained from the London core: I written constitution, and at about the same time one hundred and fifty young women cam-: to become wives to the plar.- that now the settlers regarded this as their perma- nent abode, and set to work in earr. Powhatan continued to be the friend of the English until his death, when his brother, Opechancanough, became chief of the tribes. Opechancanough was hostile to the whites, and in 1622, soon after he became chief, he set on foot a plot to annihilate the white settlements. On the first of April, the settlements farthest from Jamestown, were attacked, and great numbers of the inhabitants slain. Jamestown and the settlements bordering upon it, being warned by Chanco, a friendly Indian, were saved, and those inhabitants of the towns which were attacked, who were not massacred, fled to Jamestown. The colony which numbered eighty settlements was reduced to eight within a few days. When the English were collected at Jamestown, they made preparations for war. This war, which commenced immediately, lasted, with occasional interruptions, until 1G46, when, Opechan- canough having died in captivity, the Indians gave up their lands and left the country. 36 COLONIAL HISTORY OF The London company having become very much increased in numbers and influence, King James I. regarded their growing power as hostile and injurious to his own, and so he sought to dissolve the company. In this he succeeded. He took away their charter and made Virginia a royal province. He appointed George Yeardley governor, and twelve councilors to assist him in the administration of the government. Both this monarch and his son Charles I., who succeeded to the throne upon the death of his father, April 6th, 1625, were very selfish, and ruled the Virginia colony more for their own benefit than for that of the settlers. After Charles I. was beheaded, and during the time that Oli- ver Cromwell ruled England as Protector, the Virginia planters were allowed to govern themselves, and the colony prospered remarkably, but at the death of Cromwell, in 1658, his son, to whom he had left the government, not having the ability to rule as his father had done, soon resigned his office, and the next year after that, the line of Stuart kings was continued in the person of Charles II, the son of Charles I. At his accession a power- ful aristocracy arose in Virginia, formed by the rich planters. This party, who were more numerous than the republicans, attempted to deprive them of any part in the government. In addition to this, King Charles II. made very tyrannical and rigorous laws regarding their commercial transactions. These laws required them to ship all goods to and from England in English vessels ; they also forbade them to trade with any Euro- pean power except England, and their traffic among themselves was either excessively taxed or altogether forbidden. In the year 1675, the Susquehannah Indians, a tribe of south- ern Pennsylvania, invaded their northern border, and committed many fearful ravages. Upon the refusal of Governor Berkeley to give the people arms with which to protect themselves, they resolved to arm themselves without his authority, and at the earnest solicitation of his countrymen, Nathaniel Bacon, a young republican, placed himself at their head. He was, at first, de- clared a traitor by the governor, but, as he was supported by a body of five hundred resolute patriots, Berkeley was compelled THE SOUTHERN STATES. 37 to listen to the popular demand, and allow him a commission. The republican assembly immediately confirmed this action of the governor, and gave Bacon command over a thousand men. Bacon advanced against the Indians without delay, but he had no sooner left Jamestown than Governor Berkeley again declared him guilty of treason, and with an army equal to that of Bacon took possession of the settlement. When Bacon heard of this action, he marched against Berkeley and compelled him to evac- uate Jamestown. He marched into the town, confiscated the property of Berkeley's followers, and proclaimed himself gov- ernor. Soon afterward, however, he heard of the arrival of a large body of troops which had been sent from England to sup- press the insurrection, and, as he was not able to hold the town against the united forces, he set it on fire. The whole town, with the exception of the old church tower, was destroyed. Jamestown was burned on the evening of September 30th, 1676, and Bacon marched to the York river, where he conceived a plan to expel the governor's forces from the colony ; but before it was carried into execution, he died from the effects of a dis- ease contracted in the swamps about Jamestown. There being no one of sufficient ability to lead his party after his death, they were soon overpowered, and many of them were executed. Berkeley ruled the colony tyrannically for a year, when he was recalled, and another governor was sent from England. During the rest of the reign of Charles II. and that of his brother James II., the Virginians were very much oppressed by the tyranny of governors appointed over them, but from the revolution of 1688, which deposed James II., and enthroned William and Mary, to the beginning of the French and Indian war, the whole colony of Virginia thrived remarkably. THE FRENCH AND INDIAN WAR. Almost at the commencement of the 18th century, the French began to intrude upon the territory of the English. They already possessed Louisiana and Canada, and continued to form settlements west of Pennsylvania and Virginia. The English endured their encroachments, until, in 1753, the French devised 38 COLONIAL HISTORY OF a scheme for constructing a line of forts from Canada to Louis- iana, passing through the English colonies of Pennsylvania and Virginia. Upon this the governor of Virginia sent a letter of remonstrance to the commander of the French. George Wash- ington, who was then but twenty-one years of age, was chosen as the messenger. There was much danger connected with the mission, and the route was an exceedingly difficult one, but a better man to undertake it, than Washington, notwithstanding his youth, could not have been chosen. On the 31st of October, 1753, Washington, accompanied by three or four attendants, started upon his perilous mission. After enduring many hardships and privations, he, at last, reached the headquarters of the French commander. He de- livered his message, and after four days received a written reply. He then returned to Virginia, where he arrived after an absence of eleven weeks. The answer of the French commander had been a refusal to relinquish the claim of the French to the territory where they had settled ; so the English made immediate preparations for war. Upon attempting to build a fort at the point where the Ohio, Alleghany, and Monongahela rivers meet, they were driven away by a party of French soldiers, who finished the fort, and gave it the name of Du Quesne. In May, 1754, Washington surprised an advanced party of the French at the Great Meadows, and gained a complete vic- tory. The French commander was slain, and only fifteen of the fifty under his command escaped. On account of a lack of men, however, the English were obliged to withdraw their forces, so that the French again occupied the Ohio valley. In February, 1755, General Edward Braddock was sent from England to take command of the provincial troops. He was entirely unaccustomed to Indian warfare, and drilled his army according to European tactics, notwithstanding Washington, who had consented to attend him as aid-de-camp, repeatedly attempted to advise him to act differently. He haughtily refused THE SOUTHERN STATES. 39 to act upon the advice of Washington, believing that a lack of bravery on the part of the colonists was the only cause of their defeats. After a long delay, Braddock commenced his march. When near Fort Du Quesne, on the 9th of July, they were surprised by a quick discharge of bullets and arrows from the adjoining thickets. The English army was thrown into confusion, and, not knowing where to fire, expended their ammunition by firing into the air. General Braddock, after having three horses shot under him, was mortally wounded. Washington, although fired at many times, was not touched, so that the Indians regarded him with a superstitious dread. At the time of the expedition of Braddock against Fort Du Quesne, two others were sent out. One of them was against Niagara and Kingston, under Governor Shirley, and the other against Crown Point, under General William Johnson, both of which, though not as calamitous as that of Braddock, failed to accomplish the end in view. This war continued, each side alternately gaining advantages, until 1760, when the French were subdued. Articles of peace, however, were not signed until February 10th, 1763. THE CAROLINAS. Numerous attempts were made during the sixteenth century to establish settlements in the region called, by the English, South Virginia; the first of which was by the Huguenots, or French Protestants, who had fled from persecution in their own land. They gave to the country the name of Carolina, in honor of the King of France, Charles IX., which name it still retains. This attempt at settlement proved unsuccessful, as did also those made by several expeditions afterwards fitted out by Sir Walter Raleigh, and sent from England. The first permanent settle- ments in that region were formed by dissatisfied and adventurous colonists from the other American settlements and Barbadoes. In the year 1663 Charles II., King of England, granted this territory to eight noblemen, and the same country which, in 40 COLONIAL HISTORY OF 1562, was named Carolina, in honor of the French king, now, one hundred years afterward, received the same name in honor of the King of England. The Barbadoes planters came to Carolina in 1665, and estab- lished a colony with Sir John Yeamans as governor. In honor of Lord Clarendon, Prime Minister of England, and one of the proprietors, this colony was called the Clarendon County Colony. This colony was established in the northern part of Carolina, and soon became known entirely as North Carolina. In January, 1670, three vessels bearing emigrants, under the command of Joseph West and William Sayle, were sent out from England by the proprietors, for the purpose of establishing another colony. After settling in two or three places, which they afterwards abandoned, they finally founded a settlement on the site of the present city of Charleston, in the year 1682. As soon as permanent settlements had been founded in the Carolinas, the proprietors conceived the plan of drawing up a grand constitution for this country, which they confidently hoped would far outstrip any government in Europe. They appointed Lord Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury, one of the proprie- tors, and John Locke, one of the most distinguished philosophers of that time, to frame the instrument. It was finished in March, 1669, and was highly commended in Europe, but when taken to Carolina and tested, it was found to be exceedingly unpractical. The people would not receive it, but preferred laws of their own making. After a long endeavor to render the grand scheme practical in its workings, the proprietors gave up the attempt and permitted the people to rule in their own way. Represent- ative government was first established in 1672, in the southern part of Carolina. This was called, in honor of Sir George Carteret, one of the proprietors, the Carteret County Colony, but it soon after received the name of South Carolina. For a period of five or six years, beginning with the year 1680, great numbers of immigrants came and settled in the Carolinas, comprising the persecuted, as well as the adventurous from England, Scotland, and Ireland, the Huguenots from France, THE SOUTHERN STATES. 41 and many of the Dutch from New York. The colonists were industrious, and in both North and South Carolina many soon became wealthy. The contest between the proprietors and people lasted for twenty years, but the first legislative assembly was convened in 1688. After that, during the remainder of the seventeenth century, both the Carolinas prospered remarkably. At the beginning of the seventeenth century, on account of a war existing between England and Spain, the Spanish colony at St. Augustine, Florida, disturbed the Carolina settlements. The neighboring tribes of Indians also at times showed signs of hostility, but the colonists held both their Spanish and Indian foes in check, and were not long disturbed by them. In the year 1715, a powerful Indian confederacy was formed against the whites. This confederacy numbered about six thousand men, and, headed by the Yamassees and Tuscaroras, and instigated by the Spaniards, they made many fearful ravages in the Caro- linas. Energetic and wise measures were immediately taken by Governor Craven ; the colonies were placed under martial law, the white inhabitants and slaves were armed, and a strong force went out against the Indians, who were soon overpowered, and fled, part of the tribes to the south, and part to the north. The people of the Carolinas were heavily taxed by the pro- prietors, who also refused to aid them against their enemies, and in 1719 the people of South Carolina called a convention and sent a petition to the king to make South Carolina a royal prov- ince. The petition was granted, the colony was purchased by the king, who appointed a governor, and allowed the people to choose their own representatives. Ten years later North Caro- lina was also sold to the king. By this arrangement, the people of neither colony derived much benefit. The royal governors appointed over them were generally weak, selfish, and tyrannical, as they had proved in Virginia, Maryland and other colonies, and from this time until the beginning of the Revolutionary War, North and South Caro- lina, in common with other American colonies under royal rule, were involved in contentions with their governors concerning their rights and privileges. 42 COLONIAL HISTORY OF GEORGIA. At the time that the Carolinas became royal provinces, the whole country between the Savannah and Altamaha rivers was uninhabited except by Indian tribes. At this time also, the cruel laws against debtors were in full force in England, and men of all classes who were unable to pay their debts were thrown into prison. Moved with pity for these unfortunate men, a band of phi- lanthropists, at the head of whom was General James Edward Oglethorpe, conceived the plan of establishing on the free soil of America an asylum for those who were oppressed on account of their poverty, and persecuted for their religious belief. This plan was approved by Parliament, and sanctioned by the king, and all who were in prison for debt were released on condition that they would accompany the expedition. A charter was granted to Oglethorpe and his associates, "in trust for the poor," in the year 1732, to found a colony in the region between the Savannah and Altamaha rivers, which was called Georgia, in honor of King George II. General Oglethorpe, with the first band of emigrants, num- bering one hundred and twenty, sailed from England in Novem- ber, 1732, and touched at Charleston in the following January. From there he went to Port Royal, when, after landing the greater portion of the settlers, he ascended the Savannah river as far as Yamacraw bluff, where he laid the foundation of the city of Savannah. Treaties of peace were immediately made with the Indians of the country, who appeared friendly, and sold their lands to the new comers at a price satisfactory to both parties. Many immi- grants came from different parts of Europe, on account of the religious freedom in Georgia. A colony was founded by a pious sect from Austria, called the Moravians, who had fled from Roman Catholic persecution in their native country. They gave the name of Ebenezer to their settlement, and lived happily in the enjoyment of religious liberty. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 43 Governor Oglethorpe went back to England, and when he returned, in 1736, he brought with him about three hundred new settlers, among whom were one hundred and fifty Scotch Highlanders, who were well versed in military tactics. These Highlanders built a town on the Altamaha river, to which they gave the name of Darien. John Wesley — the founder of the denomination known as the Methodists — and his brother Charles also came with Oglethorpe, as missionaries in Georgia and among the Indians. Their labors were not crowned with very great success, and they returned to England in 1738. The distin- guished preacher, George Whitfield, who was then only twenty- three years of age, came to Georgia at that time. He met with greater success than Wesley had done, and his eloquence was so great that vast multitudes were attracted to hear him preach wherever he went. He founded an orphan asylum at Savannah, which was supported by contributions received by him at various places in England and America where he preached. During his lifetime it was of great benefit to the colony, and flourished under his powerful influence. At his death, however, which occurred at Newburyport, Massachusetts in 1770, being deprived of its sole support, it became extinct. During the year 1739, England being at war with Spain, the Spanish settlers of St. Augustine made several attacks upon the Georgian settlements. Governor Oglethorpe had been expect- ing this, and had established a firm friendship with the neigh- boring Indian tribes. In 1740, having been appointed commander-in-chief, he went with an army of over two thousand men, consisting of English soldiers, Scotch Highlanders and friendly Indians, to attack St. Augustine. In this attack, however, he was unsuccessful, on account of sickness among his troops, caused by the oppressive heat of the climate and im- purity of the atmosphere, and he was obliged to return to Savannah. After Oglethorpe's departure, the Spaniards determined again to attack the Georgian settlements. They accordingly fitted out a fleet of thirty-six vessels, and in 1742 landed above the town of St. Simon's with three thousand men. Oglethorpe, by 44 THE SOUTHERN STATES. a stratagem, decoyed them into a swamp where his men lay in ambush. The Spaniards were surprised and completely routed. They immediately retreated to their ships, and returned to St. Augustine. General Oglethorpe left Georgia in 1743, never again to return, and went to England. He had been dearly loved by the colonists, and his departure was greatly lamented. During Oglethorpe's stay in Georgia he had firmly prohibited the intro- duction of slavery in the colony ; but soon after his departure, slaves were brought there and employed on the plantations. The charter which had been obtained by Oglethorpe and his colleagues was granted to them for twenty-one years. The colony had proved extremely unprofitable to the trustees, and at the end of the term of years named in the charter they willingly gave up the instrument, and Georgia was from that time until the beginning of the war of independence, a royal province. CHAPTER V. CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION. An act for taxing the American colonies was passed in the English parliament March 22d, 1765. Heavy expenses had been incurred by the English government for the protection of the colonies during the French and Indian war ; and these, it was claimed, should be repaid by the colonists. The Americans would have been willing to have contributed their share, if they had been allowed to send representatives to the English parlia- ment ; but as they were not, they maintained that England had no right to tax them without their consent. By the provisions of the Stamp Act, a tax was imposed on all paper used in business transactions. No deed, bond, note, agreement, receipt, lease or contract was valid, without a stamp costing from three pence to six pounds. Every newspaper was also required to be stamped, and for every advertisement they contained a duty of two shillings was imposed. When the news of the Stamp Act reached America it caused great excitement and indignation among the people. Patrick Henry was the youngest member of the legislature of Virginia. After waiting in vain for some of the older members to oppose it, he tore a fly leaf from an old law book, and drew up five resolution's,"* declaring that the sole right and power to levy taxes was vested in the General Assembly, and to vest that power in any other assembly was to destroy British, as well as American freedom. He spoke eloquently in favor of his reso- lutions ; " and in the midst of an impassioned harangue, ex- claimed," " Caesar had his Brutus, Charles I. his Cromwell, and George III." — "Treason! treason!" was shouted from every part of the house — " may profit by their example. If this be treason, make the most of it." The act was to go into operation on the 1st of November, and the excitement increased as the day approached. In Boston, 46 CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION. handbills were posted up, warning those who should use or dis- tribute stamped paper to take care of their lives and property. The day was ushered in by the tolling of bells ; flags were hung at half mast, and every sign of a funeral solemnity was dis- played. In New York, ten boxes of stamps were destroyed by the people. The business men of both these places resolved to import nothing from England until the act was repealed. Domes- tic manufactures were commenced in almost every family. Homespun clothes were worn by the wealthiest as well as the middling classes. In Boston, " a paper was issued, bearing for its device, a snake, on the head of which were the letters N. E. [New Eng- land], while the body was divided into several pieces, marked with the initials of the other colonies. The motto, join or die, explained its meaning. In New Hampshire, on the morning of the eventful day, the bells tolled, and the people assembled as for a funeral procession. A coffin, bearing the name of Liberty was borne to a grave on the shoulders of eight persons, to the sound of minute guns. A funeral oration was pronounced, and the coffin was lowered into the grave. Suddenly signs of life appeared. It was raised to the surface, and now bore the in- scription, Liberty revived. Enthusiastic shouts from the multi- tude, and the triumphant sounds of drums and trumpets greeted the resurrection." The obnoxious Stamp Act was repealed in March, 1766 ; but the parliament still maintained the right to tax the colonies. Among other harsh measures resorted to by Great Britain was the Mutiny Act, obliging the colonies to find quarters and supplies for soldiers that were sent to keep them in order. These troops were stationed at New York and Boston. The people were exasperated against the troops, and finally blood was shed in the streets of Boston. A rope-maker got into difficulty with a soldier and struck him. Out of this grew an affray between several soldiers and rope- makers. A few evenings after this, about seven hundred citi- zens assembled for the purpose of attacking the troops. The CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION. 47 soldiers fired upon the citizens, and killed three and dangerously wounded several others. Then several thousand of the exasper- ated citizens collected, and a terrible scene of blood would have occurred, had not the governor assured the people that justice should be vindicated. Captain Preston and his men were tried for murder. Through the influence of John Adams and Josiah Quincy, Preston and all his men were acquitted, except two, who were found guilty of manslaughter. Parliament still claimed the right to tax the colonies, and a duty was laid on glass, lead, tea, etc. In 1770, all the taxes, excepting the one on tea, were removed. In 1773, several ships, laden with tea, entered the American ports, but the people determined not to receive it. In Boston, a party of men, disguised as Indians, marched to the wharf where the ships were anchored, and threw three hundred and forty-two chests of tea into the sea. The same feeling existed in New York, Philadelphia, and Charleston. Ships that entered these ports were obliged to return to England without landing their cargoes. The conduct of Boston produced a powerful sensation in the British Parliament, and harsh measures were now adopted toward this offending town. Parliament, by enactments, ordered the port of Boston to be closed against all commercial transac- tions, and the general court, the custom house, and other public offices should be removed to Salem. This Act was called the Boston Port Bill. All the American colonies sympathized with the Bostonians. The merchants of Salem offered their port to those of Boston. Rice and money were sent them by the people of Georgia ; five hundred and twenty-five bushels of wheat were sent from New York ; and sympathizers in London presented one hundred and fifty thous- and dollars for the poor of Boston. In 1774 a Congress, composed of delegates from the thirteen colonies, met at Philadelphia. It was composed of the wisest and best men the colonies afforded. Among them were Wash- ington, Patrick Henry and John Adams. Their meeting was 48 CAUSES OF THE REVOLUTION. opened with prayer by the Rev. Mr. Duche, an Episcopalian clergyman. Mr. Adams says, "he prayed fervently and in language sublime and beautiful, for Congress, for the province of Massachusetts Bay, and especially the town of Boston." This Congress, which was convened the 5th of September, remained in session until the 26th of October, when they ad- journed to meet again the 10th of May, 1775. But before the second Congress assembled the people had armed themselves to protect their rights and establish their freedom. CHAPTER VI. THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 1775. This war, generally known as the Revolutionary War, com- menced with the skirmishes of Lexington and Concord, April 19th, 1775. Feeling that war was inevitable, hundreds of brave men armed themselves. Their leaders were Greene, Stark, Put- nam, and others who had learned war in the contests with the French and Indians. On the night of the 10th of May, an expedition from Connec- ticut, commanded by Colonel Ethan Allen, reached Ticonderoga, a strongly fortified place on Lake Champlain. Just as day was breaking on the morning of the 11th, they marched upon the fortress. The sentinel, too much frightened to give the alarm, retreated, and the Americans captured the fortress without strik- ing a blow. Allen entered the commander's quarters, and awaking him, ordered him to surrender instantly. Seeing resistance was useless, he obeyed, and the fort, with its muskets, guns and ammunition, fell into the hands of the Americans. Crown Point was also taken a short time after Ticonderoga. June 17th, 1775, the battle of Bunker's Hill was fought. The Americans fought with great bravery and drove the British back as long as their ammunition held out, when they were obliged to give up their fort. Many were lost on both sides. Among those who were lost on the American side was Mr. Warren, whose death was deeply felt by his countrymen. The colonists were encouraged by the result of this battle, and the enemy was convinced that the Americans were not so feeble as they imagined. In the midst of these excitements the second Continental Con- gress convened at Philadelphia, and George Washington was 4 50 THE WAR OP INDEPENDENCE. appointed commander-in-chief of the army. He refused all pay, except enough to defray his expenses. The army numbered fourteen thousand, and there were but nine cartridges to each soldier. December 31st, 1775, General Arnold and General Mont- gomery attacked the city of Quebec from different quarters. Montgomery was shot ; the British surrounded them and the division was forced to surrender. Arnold commanded the troops that effected a retreat, and entrenched himself on the opposite side of the river, a few miles below the town. With the unfor- tunate attack on Quebec the first year of the war closed. 1776. A heavy cannonade was opened upon Boston from the Amer- ican batteries, on the 2d of March. General Howe, who had succeeded General Gage, being alarmed for the safety of the city, resolved to evacuate it, which he did on the 17th of March, and embarked for Halifax. On the 20th, Washington, at the head of his troops, marched into the city with drums beating and banners waving, greeted on every side with demonstrations of joy by the people. But they were shocked when they beheld the ruined condition of their beautiful town. Old South Church had been converted into a riding school ; Faneuil Hall had been used for a theatre ; wood had become so scarce that the pews of churches, the coun- ters of stores, and even valuable libraries, had been used for fuel. As soon as Washington had placed Boston in a state of secu- rity, he repaired to New York. Before attempting New York, Parker and Clinton were sent by the British to attack Charles- ton. General Lee and Colonel Moultrie had erected a fort on Sullivan's Island ; the engagement commenced on the 28th of June. The British were repulsed, and sailed for New York. The slaughter of the British was frightful ; the number of killed and wounded amounted to two hundred and twenty-five ; of the Americans, only two were killed, and twenty-two wounded. About this time, the people recommended Congress to declare the colonies absolved from allegiance to the crown, and Richard THE WAR OP INDEPENDENCE. 51 Henry Lee, Benjamin Franklin, Roger Sherman and Robert Livingston, were appointed a committee to draw up a Declara- tion of Independence. Thomas Jefferson, the youngest member of the committee, was chosen chairman, and to him was assigned the task of preparing the important document. After being discussed several days, and slightly amended, it was adopted by Congress at two o'clock on the 4th of July, 1776. This act of Congress did much to animate the hearts and support the people during the disastrous military campaign that followed. In July the British fleet left Halifax, and entering New York harbor, the troops landed on Staten Island, where in a few days, they were joined by Parker and Clinton from the south. In August, the British and Hessians landed on Long Island and attacked the American division posted at Brooklyn. The Americans were defeated, and during the night effected a retreat to New York, carrying with them every thing but their heavy cannon. Leaving the city in the hands of the British, the Americans continued their march to Harlem, where a skirmish occurred in which they were partially victorious. They then retreated to White Plains, where they encountered the British and were defeated. Washington now made preparation for the defense of Phila- delphia. He had been pursued by the enemy, under Lord Cornwallis, as far as the Delaware, but they were unable to cross it for want of boats, and awaited the freezing of the river. Con- gress had departed, and there were many loyalists in the town ; this led them to think the city could be easily taken. Corn- wallis returned to headquarters at New York, and his troops were scattered in small divisions through New Jersey. Washington determined to attack a body of Hessians stationed at Trenton. Christmas night was chosen for his enterprise. Knowing that they would pass the day in sports and drinking, he resolved to take advantage of their condition. The surprise was complete. Colonel Rahl, while trying to rally his panic- stricken soldiers, fell mortally wounded, and the Hessians sur- rendered to the Americans. 52 THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 1777. The first battle of this year was fought at Princeton. On new year's day Washington was at Trenton. Cornwallis arrived about sunset and attempted to cross the river, but was repulsed, and awaited the approach of day. The British army being fresh and strong, the Americans feared the result of the next day's encounter, and determined to leave their post during the night and attack the British at Princeton. Their camp fires were left burning to deceive the enemy on the opposite side of the river. At Princeton the British were surprised and defeated. Cornwallis, on awaking at Trenton, found the Amer- ican camp fires still burning, but not a soldier, tent or cannon was to be seen. He made a hasty march to Princeton, but did not arrive in time to prevent the victory Washington had gained. On the 11th of September the British crossed the Brandy- wine, attacked and defeated the Americans, who retreated to Chester, and then to Philadelphia, hoping to save that city ; but in this they were disappointed, and on the 26th of September it passed into the hands of the British. Hearing that the enemy's force at Germantown was somewhat weakened, an attack upon it was planned. They succeeded at first in driving the British from their post, and for a time victory seemed secure ; but some of the divisions failed to move to the attack as ordered, and the Americans were obliged to retreat with a considerable loss. A British army under General Carleton, consisting of seven thousand men, was stationed in Canada. Carleton was succeeded in command by Burgoyne, who took possession of Fort Edward, and, being greatly in want of military stores, dispatched Colonel Baum, with a large force, to seize some that the Americans had deposited at Bennington. The approach of Burgoyne on the western frontier had caused a large force to be collected in New Hampshire, under the command of Major Stark. This detach- ment reached Bennington just in time to encounter Colonel Baum's force. In the severe battle that was fought the Ameri- cans were victorious. Baum, seven hundred prisoners and large quantities of arms and ammunition were captured. THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 53 The battle of Stillwater, fought on the 19th of September, in which the Americans were victorious, was one of the severest battles of the war. The next encounter took place on the 7th of October, in which the British lost more than four hundred men, and the Americans were again victorious. The situation of Burgoyne was now desperate. The British held a council of war, in which it was agreed that a surrender of Burgoyne and his troops should be made to General Gates, and on the 17th of October the ceremony of surrender took place. 1778. After the surrender of Burgoyne, a treaty was made between the Americans and the French, on February 6th, 1778, by which the latter nation recognized the independence of the former, and decided to help her fight for it. A French fleet being expected in the Delaware, the British general determined to evacuate Philadelphia and proceed to New York. His movements being discovered by Washington, he sent a division of his army, under General Lee, to pursue them and give them battle. He overtook them at Monmouth Court-house, but, being alarmed at the sudden attack of the British, ordered a retreat. But Washington arrived just as the retreat commenced ; he reprimanded Lee, and inspired the soldiers with courage and led them against the foe. During the night Clinton retreated towards New York, and the Americans were masters of the field. 1779. The British, wearied of their unsuccessful attempts to con- quer the New England and Middle States, now turned their attention to the south, where they knew the American forces were weakest. Here they met with better success. Their first conquest was Savannah ; then followed Sunbury and Augusta. In fact, at the beginning of 1779 nearly all Georgia was in their possession. The royal governor was restored, and a royal province once more existed in the colonies. These victories 54 THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. encouraged the British, who now demanded the surrender of Charleston. Governor Rutledge and General Lincoln animated the people and soldiers to great exertions for the defense of the city, and the enemy retreated without attacking the place. Active operations in the south were suspended until the autumn of this year. But in the north the ravages of war were carried on. Ports- mouth and Norfolk, in Virginia, Norfolk, Fairfield, New Haven and other villages on Long Island Sound, were burned. The next important victory was the capture of Stony Point. The Americans entered the fort by means of the countersign, which they obtained from a negro who was in the habit of selling fruit in the garrison. After a short resistance, Colonel Johnson and his garrison surrendered prisoners of war. The following report was sent to the commander-in-chief: " The fort and garrison, with Colonel Johnson, are ours ; our officers and men behaved like men who are determined to be free." The Americans were unable to retain Stony Point, as the British sent large reinforcements up the river. They, however, removed the cannon and military stores and destroyed the fort. The Americans, aided by Count D'Estaing, attacked the city of Savannah, but they were unsuccessful, and the close of the year found Georgia still under a royal governor. 1780. In May, of 1780, the city of Charleston passed into the hands of the British. After the surrender of General Lincoln, he was succeeded by General Gates, who advanced through the Carolinas and encountered the British at Camden, where a battle was fought and the Americans again defeated with great loss. The British, elated by their success, now pushed towards the north, hoping to drive the enemy from Carolina. They advanced as far as Charlotte, when, hearing that Major Ferguson had been killed, and his eleven hundred troops made prisoners, Cornwallis returned and took up his quarters at Winnsboro, South Carolina. THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 55 Although Charleston and Camden were in possession of the British, the Americans were cheered by the brilliant exploits of Marion, Sumpter and Lee. Marion so many times and in such rapid succession cut off detachments of Cornwallis' army, that Tarleton gave him the name of Swamp Fox. Benedict Arnold was a bold soldier, but a bad and unprinci- pled man. He had married a tory lady, and lived in such an extravagant style as to awaken the suspicions of the Pennsylva- nia Legislature. A court-martial was appointed to try him. He was convicted of procuring public money by fraudulent means, and sentenced to be reprimanded by the commander-in- chief. This duty was performed by Washington with the utmost delicacy, but Arnold felt the disgrace, and, his bad passions being fully aroused, he agreed to place West Point in the hands of the British for fifty thousand dollars and a brigadier's com- mission in their army. Communications between the two armies were carried on through Adjutant General Major Andre. Andre was arrested and suffered death as a spy. Arnold escaped in safety to the British lines. Another year now drew to a close, and England had expended vast treasures and much blood in endeavoring to subjugate the colonies, without success. 1781. The first battle in the campaign of this year was fought at Cowpens. Victory was decided in favor of the Americans, and the British were obliged to retreat, leaving behind them three hundred killed or wounded, and over five hundred of their troops prisoners. General Greene gave battle to the British on the 15th of March, at Guilford Court-house. After an engagement lasting two hours, the Americans were obliged to retreat, but the enemy had suffered too much to pursue them. Numerous encounters between the two armies took place during the summer. Greene was defeated at Camden, but other Generals had at the close of the season succeeded in driving the British into the south-east 56 THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. corner of the state. In the battle of Eutaw springs in Septem- ber, the Americans were victorious. The British now abandoned all their posts, and retreated to Charleston. The last battle of the Revolution occurred at Yorktown. The allied armies, — French and American — after compelling the British to abandon their outworks, commenced a siege on the 28th of September. On the 9th of October they opened a heavy cannonade on the British works ; red hot balls were hurled among the English shipping, causing several vessels to be burned. Cornwallis, per- ceiving that all would be lost unless he could escape, attempted to cross York river, but a sudden storm arose and dispersed the boats, and they were compelled to put back, and the project was abandoned. Hope now failed, and Cornwallis, on the 19th of October, surrendered the posts at Yorktown and Gloucester, and almost seven thousand soldiers and his shipping and seamen, to General Washington and De Grasse. The terms of surrender were the same as those the British had required of General Lincoln at Charleston. Negotiations for peace were commenced in the spring of 1782. Before the close of the year the Southern cities were given up, but New York remained in the hands of the British until fall of the following year. The treaty of peace was signed September 3d, 1783, by commissioners who met at Paris. On the eighth anniversary of the first battle of the Revolution, a cessation of hostilities was proclaimed, and on the 3d of November following, the army was disbanded. During the Revolution many naval battles were also fought. The most important occurred off the coast of England in 1779. During the course of the war the Americans captured eight hundred and three vessels, with mer- chandise, amounting to about eleven millions of dollars. The darkest period of American history succeeded the Revo- lution. A debt of forty millions of dollars had been contracted, and Congress had no means of paying it. The articles of con- federation formed a sufficient constitution of government during the war, but were not adapted to the public wants of an inde- pendent sovereignty. THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE. 57 In May, of the year 1787, a convention assembled at the state house in Philadelphia. All the states were represented except Rhode Island. George Washington was chosen to pre- side, and, after long deliberation, the articles of confederation were cast aside, and the national constitution, under which we now live, was formed. After it had been signed by each member of the convention, it was submitted to Congress, September 28th, and that body sent copies of it to the several legislatures, that it might be approved of by the people of each individual state. Eleven of the states ratified it within a year, and it was adopted the 4th of March, 1789. George Washington, by the unanimous voice of the people, became their first president, and John Adams was chosen vice president. CHAPTER VII. THE ADMINISTRATIONS. WASHINGTON'S ADMINISTRATION — 1789-1797. On the 14th of April, Washington received an official an- nouncement of his election as president of the United States, under the new constitution. The ceremony of inauguration took place at New York on the 13th of April. The oath of office was administered by Chancellor Livingston. At this time the condition of the country was a very trying one. The Spanish authorities had prohibited the Americans from navigating the Mississippi ; our ships in the Mediterranean sea were attacked by pirates of the Barbary states, and many an American citizen was condemned to slavery or an Algerine dungeon ; and no treaty of commerce had been made with Eng- land, nor had they sent a minister to our country. And in addi- tion to these, the French endeavored to solicit the Americans to aid them in their revolution. Three executive departments were created. Mr. Jefferson was secretary of state ; Mr. Hamilton of the treasury, and Gen- eral Knox secretary of war. These officers comprised the pres- ident's cabinet. The first difficulty to be encountered was the payment of the public debt. In 1791, on the recommendation of Hamilton, a United States bank and national mint was established at Philadelphia. Vermont was claimed by New York and New Hampshire until 1791, when it became independent, and was admitted into the Union, the first addition to the thirteen original states. Great opposition was made to the mode of raising money by taxation. In western Pennsylvania it met with so much resist- ance that Congress was obliged to send troops to put down the rebellion. THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 59 The hostility of the Indians on the frontier was a constant source of trouble. Three armies were, at different times, sent to subdue them. A treaty of peace was made after the war had continued five years, and our western country was left unmo- lested by Indian hostility for many years. In 1795, negotiations were entered into with the Barbary powers, which protected our commerce, and by a treaty with Spain, the same year, its claims upon our western territory were abandoned, and the navigation of the Mississippi was thrown open to us. The year 1795 witnessed the treaties with England. Spain, Algiers, and the Indians. In 1797, Washington's second term of office closed, and he refused to be re-elected. ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION — 1797-1801. John Adams was the second president, and Thomas Jefferson vice president. Adams adopted the national cabinet council, left by Washington, as his own. The recent treaty with England very nearly brought on a war between France and America. The government of France refused to receive the American embassadors. Preparations for war were made, and General Washington was summoned to take command of the armies. Hostilities commenced, and a vessel of each nation was captured, but the army was not summoned to the field. Three envoys were appointed to proceed to France and negotiate for peace, but Napoleon Bonaparte had overthrown the government, and had the control of affairs in his own hands. He promptly received the United States embassadors, and en- tered into a treaty with their nation. On the return of the ministers the United States army was disbanded. Washington died at his home, in Mount Vernon, on the 14th of December, 1799, in the sixty-eighth year of his age. The national grief was sincere ; the spirit of party was hushed, and the nation mourned at the grave of the man who was " first in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen." 60 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. During the summer of 1800, the seat of government was re- moved from Philadelphia. Thomas Jefferson was inaugurated in the capitol at Washington. jefferson's administration — 1801-1809. Mr. Jefferson was inaugurated March 4th, 1801. The oath of office was administered by Chief Justice Marshall. In 1803, Louisiana having been ceded to France, our govern- ment purchased it of Napoleon Bonaparte for fifteen millions of dollars. Out of it two territories were formed, called the terri- tory of New Orleans and the district of Louisiana. The treaty with Algiers, in 1795, had provided that the Uni- ted States should pay a sum of money annually for the protec- tion of her commerce in the Mediterranean Sea, but the insolence of the piratical powers became so unendurable that the govern- ment determined to cease paying tribute to them. The Bashaw then declared war, and our little navy, under Commodore Pre- ble, was sent to the Mediterranean to humble the pirates. He succeeded in bringing the Emperor of Morocco to terms, and appeared before Tripoli with his squadron. One of his vessels — the Philadelphia — grounded in the harbor of Tripoli ; she was captured and her crew made slaves. In February, of 1804, after the capture of the Philadelphia, Lieutenant Decatur boarded her, killed the guard, set her on fire, and escaped without losing a man. Through the aid of the brother of the governor of Tripoli, peace was secured the following year. For ten years longer, however, our commerce suffered in the Mediterranean from the pirates. In 1815, the final treaty of peace was made, the Bar- bary powers compelled to pay for the injury they had done, and to give up all claim to tribute from the United States. The whole of Jefferson's second term was one of anxiety and trial. In 1805, and the two following years, the American com- merce suffered much from British aggressions. The United States had maintained a strict neutrality in the wars that were convulsing Europe, but the belligerents, in their anxiety to do THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 61 each other damage, adopted measures destructive to American commerce. The British and French governments issued orders forbidding the ships of neutrals to enter the ports of their respec- tive enemies, and the American commerce dwindled to a domes- tic coast trade. MADISON'S ADMINISTRATION-1809-1817. Jefferson was succeeded, March 4th, 1809, by James Madison. The difficulties with Great Britain first engaged his attention. Hopes of more friendly relations between France and England were entertained, but they proved false. During the year 1811, the Shawnee Indians, through the agency of the British, threatened hostility against the western settlements. General Harrison was sent against them, and de- feated them in the battle of Tippecanoe, in the north-west part of Indiana. This act of hostility, on the part of Great Britain, together with aggressions on the commerce of the United States, led Congress, on the 18th of June, 1812, to declare war with Great Britain. General Dearborn was appointed commander-in-chief of the American forces. The first event of this war was disastrous to the Americans. General Hull was ordered to invade Canada, but was obliged to retreat to Detroit, which place he surren- dered to the British without attempting to defend it. In the following year Commodore Perry repaired this loss. On the 10th of September he defeated and captured the British fleet on Lake Erie. This victory gave them command of the lake, and enabled them to recover Detroit. During the battle at Detroit, the fierce Indian chief, Tecumseh, was killed. Early in this year Toronto was captured by the Americans. On the 3d of July, 1814, Fort Erie was captured. On the 4th, the British were defeated at the battle of Chippewa, and on the 25th the Americans were again victorious at Lundy's Lane. These vic- tories drove the British from the Niagara frontier. The American navy consisted of twenty ships, that of the English one thousand and sixty. In August, 1812, the Con- stitution captured the British Guerriere, and on the 29th of 62 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. December, of the same year, compelled the frigate Java to surren- der. Commodore Decatur, commanding the United States, captured the Macedonian. The ravages of war were felt along the Atlantic coast during the year 1813. Several towns were plundered and burned ; large numbers of negroes were seized and sold in the West Indies, and General Ross entered Washington city and burned the capi- tol and president's house, and very nearly succeeded in making the president and his cabinet prisoners. The battle of New Orleans, in which the Americans were victorious, closed the war. Commissioners met in Belgium, and a treaty of peace was made, the terms of which were satisfactory to both parties. MONROE'S ADMINISTRATION — 1817-1825. On the 4th of March, 1817, James Monroe was inaugurated at Congress Hall. During the first year of Monroe's adminis- tration a portion of the Mississippi territory was admitted into the union as a state. About this time a difficulty arose with the Seminole Indians, outlaws from the Creek nation, and negroes who had fled from their masters. Massacres became so frequent that the inhabi- tants were obliged to flee from their homes for security. General Jackson marched into Florida and soon defeated and dispersed them. In 1818, the Indians ceded to the government of the United States all their lands west of the Tennessee river, in the states of Kentucky and Tennessee. Alabama was admitted into the union as a state, and the territory of Arkansas separated from Missouri territory. During the year 1819, the Floridas were ceded to the United States by Spain, and became a territory in 1821, and General Jackson was appointed governor. Maine was admitted in March, 1820, and Missouri in August, 1821. During the remainder of Monroe's administration, little of general importance occurred, aside from the rapid progress of the country. In the autumn of 1824, four candidates for the presidency, representing the different sections of the union, were THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 6& nominated. The choice being devolved upon the house of repre- sentatives, John Quincy Adams was chosen president. ADAMS' ADMINISTRATION — 1825-1829. John Q. Adams became President March 4th, 1825. He renewed a proposition which Monroe had made, to purchase the land the Indians held east of the Mississippi. Some of the tribes were unwilling to do this ; but in February all the terri- tory in Georgia, except a thousand acres, was ceded to the United States. Internal improvement and domestic manufactures were the principal subjects that engrossed the president's attention. During Adams' administration more than five millions of dollars had been distributed among the surviving revolutionary soldiers, the national debt had been greatly diminished, and five millions of dollars were in the treasury. JACKSON'S ADMINISTRATION — 1829-1837. During this administration two Indian wars occurred. In 1832, Black Hawk, a powerful chief of the Sac Indians, together with the Fox and Winnebago tribes, waged war on the Illinois frontier. General Atkinson was sent against them, and, after a few skirmishes, Black Hawk was captured and taken to Wash- ington, and the Indians were driven beyond the Mississippi. Towards the close of 1835 another Indian war, of a more serious nature, arose. The Seminole Indians, led on by their principal chief, Osceola, commenced a distressing warfare on the frontier settlements of Florida. This war lasted seven years. On one occasion Major Dode was surrounded by Indians, and his command, consisting of one hundred men, were cruelly mas- sacred ; four escaped alive, but afterwards died of their wounds. A treaty of peace was not concluded until Osceola died in prison, at Fort Moultrie, in 1842. Jackson was possessed of strong passions, an iron will and an uncorrupt heart. He entered upon the duties of his office, 64 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. determined to guide the ship of state according to his concep- tion of the constitution. The people were divided into two dis- tinct classes. By one he was thoroughly loved, and by the other intensely hated. His energetic administration gave gen- eral satisfaction, and he was re-elected. He vetoed a bill passed by Congress to renew the charter of the United States bank, in 1836. In 1833, he went so far as to direct the secretary of the treasury to withdraw the government funds, and deposit them in certain state banks. The secretary refused to do this, and was dismissed from office. In October, 1833, the act was accom- plished. Intense excitement prevailed throughout the country ; numerous failures followed ; the president was censured by a resolution of the senate, but, being supported by the house of representatives, he persevered, and finally triumphed. The state banks enlarged their operations, and commercial prosperity revived. Arkansas was admitted into the Union in June, 1836, and Michigan, in January following. van buren's administration — 1837-1841. Van Buren was inaugurated March 4th, 1837. The great apparent prosperity during the last year of Jackson's adminis- tration, was succeeded by a revulsion in monetary affairs. The mercantile failures in New York alone, amounted to more than a hundred millions of dollars. In NeAV Orleans failures to the amount of twenty-seven millions occurred within two days. In 1837, a portion of the Canadas rose in rebellion against the British, and determined to secure their independence. Individ- uals and companies from the United States joined these rebels. This displeased Great Britain, and it became necessary for the president to issue a proclamation preventing further aggressive movements. About this time the dispute concerning the bound- ary between the state of Maine and the British possessions was renewed, and the peaceful relations between Great Britain and the United States were endangered. General Scott was sent to the frontier, and harmony between the two countries was restored. THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 65 HARRISON'S AND TYLER'S ADMINISTRATION — 1841-1845. William Henry Harrison, who succeeded Van Buren, was inaugurated March 4th, 1841. His cabinet counselors were wisely chosen. Daniel Webster was appointed secretary of state. The only official act of importance performed by Harri- son, was the issuing of a proclamation calling an extra session of congress to legislate upon important matters connected with the revenue and finances of the country. He died the 4th of April, just one month after his inauguration. On the 6th of April the oath of office was administered to John Tyler. The extra session of congress, called by president Harrison, occupied itself with the financial interests of the coun- try. A general bankrupt law was enacted, which freed those who had failed from their obligations, and enabled them to re- commence business. The sub-treasury act was repealed. The chief object sought to be obtained during this session was the establishment of a national bank. Two bills providing for such an institution passed both houses, but were vetoed by the presi- dent, who was severely censured by the party who had elected him. His cabinet all resigned, except Mr. Webster, who re- tained his seat on account of public interests which would have suffered by his withdrawal at this time. The second year of Mr. Tyler's administration was signalized by the return of the United States exploring expedition. This expedition had been sent, four years before, by the United States navy to explore the southern ocean. It was commanded by Charles Wilkes. He made many important discoveries ; among which was the Antarctic continent, along which he coasted for a distance of seventeen hundred miles. During this administration, difficulties in Rhode Island origi- nated in attempts to abandon the old charter granted by Charles II., under which the government had been administered one hundred and eighty years, and adopt a state constitution of gov- ernment. The disputes which arose concerning the manner in which their government should be altered, assumed a serious aspect. The state was on the verge of civil war, and national 5 66 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. troops were sent to restore quiet and order. A free constitu- tion was framed, and went into operation in May, 1843. Florida was admitted into the union in 1845, and Iowa in 1846. Towards the close of Tyler's administration the country was much agitated concerning the admission of the republic of Texas as a state of the union. By the north it was strongly opposed, because it would increase the political strength of slavery, and lead to a war with Mexico. polk'r administration — 1845-1849. James K. Polk entered the presidential mansion, as its occu- pant, March 4th, 1845. May 29th, 1844, the news of his nomi- nation was transmitted from Baltimore to Washington by the magnetic telegraph, " being the first dispatch ever so commu- nicated." On the 4th of July, 1845, Texas became one of the United States. Its admission into the union, as had been predicted, caused a war between Mexico and the United States. Although the independence of the state of Texas had been acknowledged by the United States, England and France, a portion of its terri- tory was claimed by Mexico. American vessels were plundered in the Gulf of Mexico, and the property of American merchants confiscated to the amount of six millions of dollars. These aggressions continued, and the president ordered General Zachary Taylor, with his troops, to the Rio Grande. The boundary between Texas and Mexico was still unsettled. The territory between the Rio Grande and the Nueces was claimed by both parties. While war was gathering in the south-west, difficulties arose between the governments of the United States and Great Britain, concerning the boundary between the two countries on the north- west, which was finally settled by a treaty of peace in June, 1846, the boundary being fixed at forty-nine degrees north latitude. Hostilities commenced on the part of the Mexicans on the 26th of April, 1846, when a reconnoitering party, under Cap- tain Thornton, was killed or captured by the Mexicans. THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 67 Taylor's army, consisting of fifteen hundred men, was called " the Army of Occupation." On the 8th of May, as he was advancing to Fort Brown, he encountered six thousand Mexi- cans, under General Arista. In the severe conflict which ensued, the Mexicans were defeated, with a loss of nearly five hundred in killed and wounded. The Americans lost fifty-three. The next day a shorter, but bloodier battle occurred between the same armies at Resaca de la Palma. The Mexicans were again defeated, with a loss of one thousand, while the Americans lost but one hundred and ten. Congress declared that war had begun, and Taylor was ordered to invade Mexico, advancing from Matamoras towards Monterey. His first division was com- manded by General Worth. They encountered and defeated two armies, raised to oppose them, one at Monterey, on the 24th of September, under General Ampudia, and another at Buena Vista, February 23d, under Santa Anna. Santa Anna approached Buena Vista with twenty thousand men, and ordered General Taylor, with his five thousand troops, to surrender, which he politely refused to do, and made ready for an encounter he felt would be the most trying in which he had yet engaged. The Mexicans commenced the battle at sun- rise on the 23d. This bloody conflict lasted until night, when the Mexicans withdrew, leaving their dead and wounded behind them. The Mexicans lost two thousand, and the Americans two hundred and sixty-seven. On the 29th of March, 1847, General Scott compelled the city of Vera Cruz and the castle of San Juan d' Ulloa to surrender. He defeated the enemy in the great battle of Cerro Gordo, and entering the valley of Mexico, he won the victories of Contreras, Churubusco, Molino del Rey, Chapultepec, and on the 14th of September, entered the capital in triumph, and planted the American flag on the national palace. In August of 1846, General Kearney, commander of the army of the west, had taken possession of New Mexico, and started for California to aid Colonel Fremont and Commodores Sloat and Stockton, in the conquest of that country. 68 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. The Americans being every where victorious, the Mexican congress sued for peace. On the 2d of February, 1848, a treaty of peace was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo. Including this peace, Mexico ceded to the United States New Mexico and California, for the sum of fifteen millions of dollars. Wisconsin was admitted into the union in May, 1848. General Taylor's brilliant victories in Mexico rendered him so popular that he was nominated for president of the United States. He was elected by a large majority, with Millard Jill- more as vice president. Taylor's and fillmore's administration — 1849-1853. The 4th of March occurring on Sunday, the oath of office was administered on the 5th. The first object which claimed the attention of the new president was California. After the dis- covery of gold, its population increased so rapidly, that in 1849 the people took measures for its admission into the union. A constitution was adopted which prohibited slavery. Intense ex- citement existed throughout the whole country. Part of the state was south of the dividing line established by the Missouri compromise, and senators from the south declared the prohibi- tion of slavery there would cause a dissolution of the union. In the midst of this excitement the senate was deprived of one of its most effective orators, by the death of John C. Calhoun. He died at Washington, on the 31st of March, 1850. On the 9th of July following, the country, a second time, suffered be- reavement, in the loss of its chief magistrate. The disease, which terminated his life, was similar to the cholera. He was succeeded by Vice President Fillmore. The former cabinet re- signed, and Daniel Webster was appointed secretary of state. The first important measure adopted by Mr. Fillmore was the Compromise act. After the requirements of the act had been thoroughly discussed in congress, Mr. Fillmore gladly affixed his signature to the bill, and California was admitted into the union as a free state. During this administration the territory of Washington was formed out of the northern part of Oregon. the administrations. 69 pierce's administration — 1853-1857. Franklin Pierce, the fourteenth president of the United States, was inaugurated March 4th, 1853. The most exciting question that arose during Pierce's term related to the organization of a vast region in the interior of the continent into two territories, to be called respectively Nebraska and Kansas. The slavery agitation was revived again in all its strength. The bill for organizing these territorial governments passed both houses, and after receiving the signature of the president, became a law. The question of slavery or freedom was left to its occupants to decide, when they should seek admis- sion into the union as states. BUCHANAN'S ADMINISTRATION — 1857-1861. March 4th, 1857, Franklin Pierce was succeeded by James Buchanan, the democratic candidate. The two great political parties, into which the people were divided, were the whigs and democrats. But after the Missouri compromise was repealed a new party was formed, styled republican. It was composed chiefly of those who had formerly belonged to the whig party. The republicans were opposed to the extension of slavery into free territory ; and yet maintained that Congress had no right to interfere with it in the slave states. The country was violently agitated by the slavery question throughout Buchanan's term. The excitement reached its highest pitch in October, 1859, when John Brown, with fifteen white and five colored men, seized the arsenal at Harper's Ferry, with the view of establishing the freedom of the slaves by force of arms. Federal troops were sent to suppress the insurrection. Thirteen of the invaders were killed. Brown and the remainder were captured, tried, con- victed of treason, and were executed December 2d, under the laws of Virginia. The southern leaders attempted to implicate the people of the north in this mad enterprise, and the bitter- ness of feeling existing between them was greatly increased. During the close of Buchanan's administration, preparations were made for the rebellion which soon folloAved. Cobb, Thomp- son, and Floyd, members of his cabinet, took an active part in 70 THE ADMINISTRATIONS. the secession of the slave states. Floyd, the secretary of war, sent United States arms and munitions of war to the southern states. Lincoln's administration. On the 4th of March, 1861, Chief Justice Taney adminis- tered the oath of office to Abraham Lincoln, the president elect of the United States. The leaders of the democratic party in the south claimed that Mr. Lincoln was the representative of the so-called " abolitionists," who now expected, through him, to abolish the institution of slavery from the United States. They, therefore, made his election a pretext for attempting to dissolve the union, and establish a southern confederacy with slavery as its corner stone. At the time agreed upon, the politicians in the several states met in convention, and, without consulting the people, passed the ordinance of secession from the United States. South Car- olina took the lead on the 20th of December, 1860, in a conven- tion at Charleston, and her action was imitated by the following states, in order, namely : Mississippi, Florida, Alabama, Geor- gia, Louisiana, Texas, Virginia, Arkansas, North Carolina and Tennessee. On the 4th of February a convention assembled at Montgomery, Alabama, and established a " southern confeder- acy," with the title of Confederate States of America. Jeffer- son Davis, of Mississippi, was chosen president, and Alexander H. Stephens, of Georgia, vice president of the "confederacy." The conspirators immediately raised an army to sustain their revolt, and seized all forts, arsenals, ships, arms, and other gov- ernment property which they could lay hold of. It had been the intention of the conspirators from the first to take possession of Forts Sumter and Moultrie, in Charleston harbor, especially Sumter, as it was the stronger. (See view No. 3133.) Major Robert Anderson, who was stationed at that point, suspected their design, and removed his garrison from Fort Moultrie to Sumter. At this, the rebels were enraged, and immediately determined to bombard the fort. They cut off all communication between the garrison and its friends, and THE ADMINISTRATIONS. 71 demanded the surrender of the fort to the authorities of the state. On the refusal of Anderson to surrender, General P. G. T. Beauregard, who had raised a large army, prepared to seize the fort. On the 12th of April, 1861, the fort was assaulted, and its interior fired. Anderson held out as long as he was able, but his supplies having become exhausted, "he evacuated the fort on the 14th, carrying with him the garrison flag." It was while the preparations for the attack upon Fort Sum- ter were going on that president Lincoln was inaugurated. He declared his intention to execute the laws of the country and protect the property of its citizens. As soon as tidings of the assault upon Sumter reached Washington, the president issued a call for seventy-five thousand men, to serve for three months in quelling the rebellion, and in less than twenty days nearly two hundred thousand had volunteered, and about forty millions of dollars had been subscribed by the loyal people of the north for the purpose of carrying on the war. Then a contest was begun, which, "in numbers engaged, territorial extent of operations, and destructive engines used," is unparalleled in the history of the world. CHAPTER VIII. THE CIVIL WAR. 1861. The condition of the national army at the commencement of the war was extremely unfavorable. It consisted of only sixteen thousand men, the greater part of whom were on the western border, holding the Indians in check, and at least one-half of the entire land force of the United States was surrendered by General Twiggs to the " authorities of Texas," one of the re- volted states. The naval force consisted of but ninety vessels, bearing twenty-four hundred guns and but seven thousand men. These, however, at the beginning of the war were all in foreign waters, with the exception of one steamship bearing twenty-five guns, and a small relief ship of two guns. John B. Floyd, the former secretary of war, had caused most of the arms to be taken from the forts in the northern states to those in the slave states. From this, it will be seen, that almost every instrument which might have been employed for the protection of the gov- ernment, had been put away from its control by the conspirators. From the beginning, the conspirators had determined to gain possession of the capital, and it was now in great danger of being seized. As a movement preparatory to the seizure of Washington, the navy yard at Gosport, and the arsenal and armory at Harper's Ferry were attacked by the insurgents. Not being able to hold them, the commander of the national forces set fire to them, and evacuated Harper's Ferry on the 18th, and Gosport on the 21st of April. On the 19th of the same month, the sixth Massachusetts regiment passed through Baltimore on its way to Washington, and was attacked by a mob of ten thousand men. Two of its number were killed, and one mortally wounded. This was the first blood shed in the THE CIVIL WAR. 73 great conflict. A monument to the memory of the two who fell as the first victims of the rebellion, was erected in Lowell, Mass- achusetts. (See view No. 6617.) On account of the entensive preparations which the conspira- tors had made, and the increasing strength of the conspiracy, the president issued a call for over sixty-four thousand addi- tional troops for the army and eighteen thousand for the navy "to serve during the war." Baltimore was seized by a detachment from the United States forces under General Benjamin F. Butler, and troops after that passed through the city without molestation. The city of Wash- ington was occupied by a large body of national troops under General Winfield Scott, and no more trouble was anticipated from the rebels in that quarter. Up to the time that congress assembled, July 4th, there had been, besides the three months troops, two hundred and thirty thousand men enlisted, and on the 10th congress appropriated five hundred millions of dollars for defraying the expenses of the war, and authorized the presi- dent to call for five hundred thousand more men. On the 20th of the same month, the seat of the confederate government was removed from Montgomery to Richmond, Virginia. On the 24th of May occurred the first entrance by loyal troops into a rebellious state. Alexandria and Arlington Heights, in Virginia, were seized by United States forces. The first com- mander who entered Alexandria was Colonel E. E. Ellsworth, at the head of his gallant New York Fire Zouaves. He was shot on the same day by the proprietor of the " Marshall House," in that city. (See views No. 2294 and No. 2295.) The seat of war was soon extended as far west as Missouri, but that state was rescued from the hands of the conspirators by the energetic Captain Nathaniel Lyon, aided by his troops and the loyal citizens. The first battle after the declaration of war by the United States government, was fought on the 3d of June at Philippi, Barbour county, Virginia. A body of nation- al forces, commanded by Colonel B. F. Kelley, assaulted and defeated a detachment of seventeen hundred confederate soldiers. General Butler, who was in command at Fortress Monroe, 74 THE CIVIL WAR. learned that batteries had been planted on the creek at Big Bethel by Colonel Magruder, a confederate officer, and he, on the night of the 10th, sent Brigadier General Pierce, with two columns from Fortress Monroe and Newport News, to seize them. The two detachments, when they met, fired upon each other, each supposing the other to be a hostile force. In this disaster, the first officer of the regular army who fell a victim to the rebellion, was killed. This was Lieutenant John T. Greble, an artillery officer. The next day Colonel Lewis Wallace, with his Indiana Zou- aves, scattered a force of five hundred rebel troops at Romney, Hampshire county, Virginia, and drove the confederate force, which was stationed at Harper's Ferry, to Winchester. At about this time a considerable force, commanded by General George B. McClellan, entered West Virginia from the Ohio. A detachment from this army, under Colonel W. S. Rosecrans, defeated a body of three thousand confederate troops at Rich Mountain, on the 11th of July. At the time these military operations were being carried en, the loyal people of Western Virginia were excited over the ordi- nance of secession which had lately been passed at Richmond. They refused their consent to that action, and representatives from thirty-nine counties assembled in convention at Wheeling, on the 11th of June. On the 17th they declared their inde- pendence of the government of the state of Virginia, and on the 20th the commonwealth of West Virginia was established, with Frank H. Pierpont as Governor. In July, a movement was set on foot for the capture of Rich- mond, the confederate capital, and on the 18th of this month, General Irwin McDowell, with about fifty thousand men, com- prising the army around Washington, advanced from Fairfax Court-house, Virginia, for the purpose of attacking the confed- erates at Manassas Junction. It had been the design, if successful at Manassas, to advance against Richmond, and take possession of that city. The same day on which they left Fairfax Court- house, they came upon a body of confederate troops at Black- burn's Ford, near Centreville, where a sharp skirmish occurred. THE CIVIL WAR. 75 No advantage was gained by either side, and at Bull Run, on the 21st, the contest was renewed. (See views No. 2328 and 2329.) At this time a very severe battle was fought. The rebel forces were under the command of Beauregard and other able generals. At first the federal forces were triumphant ; but just as the confederates were about to retreat, General Joseph E. Johnston arrived with reinforcements. The confederates were then rallied, and the federal forces were completely routed, and fled toward Washington. The national loss at this battle was over three thousand men. On the 22d, General McClellan was invested with the command of the forces in the vicinity of Washington, called " The Army of the Potomac;" and on the 31st, General Scott having resigned his position on account of his failing health, General McClellan received the appointment of general-in-chief of the armies of the union. During the time that these military movements were in progress in Virginia, the war was progressing in the west. A severe contest occurred near Carthage, in Missouri, on the 5th of July. The union forces were led by Colonel Franz Sigel, and the rebels by the governor of Missouri, C. F. Jackson. Although the forces under Jackson far outnumbered those of Sigel, the latter conducted his retreat so ably that not one union soldier fell into the hands of the enemy ; and, as the confederate loss was almost four times that of the national, it was, substantially, a union victory. On the 2d of August, an indecisive fight took place at Day Spring, between the nationals, under General Lyon, and the confederates, under General Ben McCulloch, which was renewed on the 10th at Wilson's Creek, near Springfield. Mc- Culloch 's force in this battle was about twenty- two thousand strong, while that of Lyon, with the exception of a small column under Sigel, consisted of only five thousand. General Lyon was killed at nine o'clock in the morning. The victory, which was very indecisive, was claimed by the rebels, although their loss was more than double that of the federals. During the summer of 1861 a large navy had been created, and in the latter part of August an expedition was fitted out at Fortress Monroe against Forts Hatteras and Clark, at the 76 THE CIVIL WAR. entrance of Pamlico Sound. This expedition, the military force of which was under General Butler, and the naval under Com- modore Stringham, proved remarkably successful. A great many prisoners were taken, besides several vessels, heavy cannon, and one thousand stand of small arms. When the conspirators received tidings of the action of the people of West Virginia, they resolved to compel them to sub- mit to secession. Accordingly, three bodies of troops were sent against them, commanded respectively by Colonel Robert E. Lee, ex-Governor Henry A. Wise, and John B. Floyd, the former secretary of war. The latter was met at Carnifex Ferry, in West Virginia, by a federal force under General Rosecrans, and, in a severe engagement of three days' duration, the rebels were defeated. At about this time, also, the union troops at Lexington, in Missouri, under Colonel James A. Mulligan, were attacked by a confederate force under General Sterling Price. The rebels gained possession of the town and held it until the 16th of October, when it was recaptured by a body of federal cavalry led by Major Frank J. White. On the 31st of October, a body of national troops, under General Charles P. Stone, was defeated at Ball's Bluff, in Vir- ginia, by a vastly superior confederate force under General Evans, and on the 7th of November, one week later, another victory was gained by the rebels at Belmont, Missouri. Their forces, under the command of General Cheatham, were attacked by General Ulysses S. Grant, at the head of a body of union troops, and they were at first compelled to abandon their posi- tion, but, having received re-enforcements from Columbus, Ken- tucky, they rallied and drove the federal troops to their boats. On the same day, however, Forts Beauregard and Walker, guarding the Port Royal entrance, on the coast of South Caro- lina, were captured by a union naval force under Rear-Admiral Samuel F. Dupont. " This was a very important victory, for it led to the permanent occupation, by government troops, of the Sea Islands along the South Carolina coasts, between Charleston and Savannah, so famous for the production of fine cotton." THE CIVIL WAR. 77 This was the last important movement during this year, but the hostile feeling which existed at the time of the bombardment of Fort Sumter was now as strong as ever, and both armies made extensive preparations for a vigorous campaign the coming season. 1862. Hostilities were commenced this year by another joint military and naval expedition from Fortress Monroe, under the command of General Ambrose E. Burnside and Commodore L. M. Golds- borough. The expedition set out from Hampton Roads on the 11th of January, and proceeded southward as far as Hatteras Inlet, whence it turned and went back to Roanoke Island, in Albemarle Sound, which it took, after a sharp contest, on the 8th of February, together with over three thousand stand of arms, and a large number of prisoners. While this expedition was in progress, on the 19th of Janu- ary a severe battle was fought at Mill Spring, in the eastern part of Kentucky, between union forces, commanded by General George H. Thomas and General Schoepf, and confederates un- der Generals George B. Crittenden and F. R. Zollicoffer. In this battle the federal troops gained a decisive victory. The rebel General Zollicoffer was shot by Colonel S. S. Fry, of the 4th Kentucky regiment. Soon after this battle several other important victories were successively won by the national forces. The first of these was the capture of Fort Henry, on the Tennessee river, on the 6th of February, by land troops, under General Grant, and a naval force commanded by Commodore Andrew H. Foote. Grant, then, with about fifteen thousand of his troops advanced to Fort Donelson, on the Cumberland river, which was held by a large garrison under the command of Generals John B. Floyd, Simon B. Buckner, and Gideon J. Pillow. Being here joined by other troops, which increased his force to about forty thousand strong, Grant laid siege to the fort. After sustaining the siege for three days, General Buckner, on the 16th of February, surrendered the fort, together with over thirteen thousand men and valuable spoils. Generals Floyd and Pillow deserted Buckner when they 78 THE CIVIL WAR. saw that the fort must be surrendered ; but the latter, more honorable than they, remained, and suffered himself to be made a prisoner with his soldiers. On the 5th of March, a battle was commenced at Pea Ridge, in western Arkansas, between federal troops under Generals Samuel R. Curtis, Franz Sigel, and Jeff. 0. Davis, and confed- erates under Generals Karl Van Porn, Sterling Price, and Ben McCulloch, in which, after a throe days* contest, the union forces •were victorious. The noted Texan, General Ben MeCulloch, was killed in this battle. On the day this battle closed, " a new kind of vessel, called a 'rani,' and named Virginia (late Mcrri- mac), produced great havoc and consternation in Hampton Roads." This vessel was plated with iron, and had been con- structed by the confederates at Norfolk. On the same night, however, a "floating battery," lately invented by Captain J. Ericsson, a native of Sweden, made its appearance in Hampton Heads. Like the Merrimcic, it was constructed chiefly of iron. It was named the Monitor, and was commanded by Lieutenant John 11. Warden. The next day it went out against the Merri- mac, and, after a severe engagement, the •"Rebel Apollyon " was so badly disabled that it retreated to Norfolk, leaving the little Monitor in command of Hampton Roads. At the beginning of this year, there were four armies in the held, viz : The Army of the Potomac, the army at Fortress Monroe, the army of Western Virginia, and the army in Ken- tucky. An order had been issued by President Lincoln on the 27th o( January, for all the armies to move upon the enemy on the 22d of February. We have seen that this order had been obeyed by the armies at Fortress Monroe, and in Kentucky. The Army of the Potomac, also, under General MeClellan, advanced to Manassas, and the confederate force stationed there, being less than one-fourth the number of the federal force, retreated to Richmond: and. as was afterward known, the national army might have advanced and taken possession of Richmond without being very strongly resisted : but General MeClellan had formed a plan of advance different from that originally fixed upon, and on this account the army was delayed THE CIVIL WAR. 79 until the 3d of April. On that day, General McClellan, at the head of* the Army of the /'ofomae, left Fortress Monroe on an expedition againsl Richmond. One month later, May 4th, Ynrkto\vn. which was occupied by a rebel force under General Magruder, and which McClellan was preparing to besiege, was evaluated by the garrison stationed there, who fled toward Rich- mond. The federal troops immediately entered the town, and on the 5th a force was sent in pursuit of the fugitives. They were overtaken on the same day at Williamsburg, and in a severe engagement which ensued, the union troops were victorious. On tie 9th, General John E. Wool, who was then in command at Fortress Monroe, advanced with a body of troops against Norfolk. The rebels at that place made no attempt to defend it, but fled to Richmond, after having utterly destroyed the famous ram Werrimac, leaving behind them about two hundred cannon. On the 25th, a force of about four thousand men, under General Nathaniel P. Banks, was defeated at Winchester, in the Shenandoah valley, by a confederate force of fifteen thousand, but made good their retreat. A great part of the Potomac army crossed the Chickahominy river on the 22d, and on the 29th captured Hanover Court-house from the rebels. A severe engagement took place at Fair Oaks on the 31st of May and 1st of June, between the rebels under General Joseph E. Johnston, and a portion of the army of the Potomac, under General Silas Casey. The rebel force was more than double that of the nationals, but no advantage was gained by either side, while each sustained a fearful loss. The army of the Poto- mac changed its position in about three weeks from this time, which led to a succession of battles during the last week of June, the most important of which were the battles of Mcchanicsville, June 25th ; Gaines' Mill, June 27 ; Peach Orchard Station, and Savage's Station, June 29 ; Glendalc, or White Oak Swamp, June 30, and Malvern Hill, July 1. While these movements were in progress in Virginia, the other branches of the army were not idle. On the 14th of March, the expedition from Fortress Monroe, known as " Burnside's expedition," captured Newborn, in North Carolina, and Grant 80 THE CIVIL WAR. was following up his victories at Forts Henry and Donelson, by advancing further into the confederate territory, so that at the beginning of April, he had ascended the Tennessee river almost to the southern boundary of the state. On the 6th of the month, his army was attacked before daylight by a strong rebel force under General A. Sydney Johnston. This engagement took place at Shiloh, near Pittsburgh Landing. The union troops were scattered, and General Benjamin M. Prentiss, together with twenty-five hundred men, was taken prisoner. During the night, however, strong re-enforcements arrived under General Don Carlos Buell, and, on the morning of the 7th, General Grant renewed the contest, and, after a very severely fought battle, gained a complete victory. On the same day, Island No. 10, a strongly fortified island in the Mississippi river, together with the surrounding batteries on the shore, was surrendered to Commodore Foote, after a twenty-three days' bombardment. Four days after this, the national army gained control over the entrance to Savannah river, by the surrender of Fort Pulaski, at its mouth, to General David Hunter, and on the same day Huntsville, in Alabama, was captured by a federal force under General Ormsby M. Mitchel. On the 18th, General C. C. Augur captured Fredericksburg, in Virginia, and on the 28th, New Orleans, the most important and populous city of the con- federacy, next to Baltimore, was taken by a naval force under Commodores David G. Farragut and David D. Porter, and a military force under General Butler. Eight days after the capture of New Orleans, a naval force, commanded by Colonel Charles Ellet, after a hard fought battle, overpowered the confederates at Memphis, Tennessee, and the city was surrendered to the nationals. Colonel Ellet was mor- tally wounded, but Commodore Davis immediately assumed com- mand, and took possession of the city. The troops commanded by General John C. Fremont, Nathan- iel P. Banks, and Irwin McDowell, were united into one force, called the Army of Virginia, on the 25th of June, and General John Pope was invested with the command. This army was THE CIVIL WAR. 81 comparatively idle during the greater part of the month of July, but in the latter part of this month the rebels advanced from Richmond with the intention of making an attempt to seize Washington. General Pope, with great difficulty, held them in check until the 22d of August, when McClellan came to his assistance. General McClellan was placed in command of all the forces around Washington on the 1st of September. On the 14th, a severe engagement occurred at South Moun- tain, in Maryland, in which each army was commanded by its General-in-Chief, George B. McClellan, on the national side, and Robert E. Lee on the side of the confederates. The union forces won the day, but the heroic General Jesse L. Reno was among the slain. On the following day, Harper's Ferry, in Virginia, together with over eleven thousand men, two hundred wagons, seventy cannon, and thirteen thousand small arms, was surrendered to the confederates, under General Thomas J. (" Stonewall ") Jackson. (See views of Harper's Ferry.) Two days after the surrender of Harper's Ferry, Generals McClellan and Lee, each with a force of about one hundred thousand men, met at Antietam Creek, in Maryland, and, in a severe engagement, lasting from daylight till dark, the union forces were victorious. The rebels lost about twenty thousand men. The union General J. K. F. Mansfield was killed, and Generals I. P. Rodman and Israel B. Richardson were mortally wounded. General Lee retreated toward Richmond, but Mc- Clellan made no attempt to pursue him, and the army of the Potomac remained in Maryland until the 27th of October, when General Burnside, with a portion of it, entered Virginia. The rest of the army followed on the 31st, led by McClellan, who was, on the 5th of November, superseded by General Burnside. In August, Middle Kentucky was ravaged by bands of guer- rillas, who were fighting for the confederate cause. The most famous leader of these depredators was John Morgan, who, at the head of a large band, committed many ravages. At about the same time, the state of Kentucky was invaded by rebel troops led by General E. Kirby Smith, who, on the 29th of August, 6 82 THE CIVIL WAR. defeated a federal force of infantry and cavalry, commanded by Generals Manson and Cruft, near Richmond, in Kentucky, and then advanced toward Cincinnati. General Wallace, who was in command of northern Kentucky, was so well prepared to receive the rebels when they approached, that they beat a hasty retreat. A confederate force, under General Braxton Bragg, also invaded Kentucky with the intention of seizing the city of Louisville. That place, however, was well defended by General Buell, and the attempt to capture it was given up. On the 8th of October, Bragg was met and defeated near Perryville, in Kentucky, by a federal force under the command of Generals A. D. McCook, Lovell H. Rousseau, and Philip H. Sheridan, and he soon after left the state. Nothing of importance was done by the army of the Tennes- see, after the battle of Shiloh, except the expulsion of the rebels from Corinth on the 26th of May, by a body of troops under General Henry W. Halleck, until October. On the 3d and 4th of this month, the confederate Generals Van Dorn and Price carried on an engagement with the force at Corinth. They compelled the federal force to flee into the town the first day, but, on the second day, after a severely contested battle, they were badly worsted, and fled, leaving behind them fourteen flags, and several stands of arms. After Burnside had been placed in command of the army of the Potomac, he advanced toward Fredericksburg, on the Rap- pahannock. He halted opposite the city on the 17th of Novem- ber, where the army lay encamped for almost a month. On the 13th of December, a portion of the army, led by Generals Joseph Hooker, Edwin V. Sumner, and William B. Franklin, attacked the rebel force at Fredericksburg, but they were defeated with the loss of about eight thousand men. The army remained in- active from that time until near the end of April, 1863. During the year 1862, Pensacola, in Florida, had been cap- tured by national forces, and several victories had been won by the national arms in Texas and on the lower Mississippi. The last important engagements of the year were an unsuccessful THE CIVIL WAR. 83 attempt, by union troops, under General William T. Sherman, to gain possession of Vicksburg, in Mississippi, on the 27th of December, and a severely fought battle at Murfreesboro, in Ten- nessee, between federal troops under General William S. Rose- crans, and confederates, commanded by General Bragg. This battle, which continued from the 29th of December, 1862, until the 4th of January, 1863, was won by the union troops, but with the loss of almost twelve thousand men. While these contests on land and water were going on, the government at Washington "was devising and executing measures for the suppression of the great insurrection. Congress made ample provisions for money and men ; the latter by draft, if not otherwise obtained. Believing that a heavy blow at slavery had become a military necessity, it authorized the president to pro- claim the emancipation of the slaves. He did not do so imme- diately ; but, by proclamation, September 22d, 1862, he assured the confederates that, unless they should lay down their arms within a hundred days, he should issue an edict which would proclaim the freedom of all bondmen in territory wherein rebel- lion existed." 1863. As the confederates did not heed the warning of President Lincoln, September 22d, 1862, he, on the 1st of January, 1863, issued the famous Emancipation Proclamation, which proclaimed liberty to all slaves in those states which were in rebellion against the government. The last session of the thirty-seventh congress closed on the 4th of March. " It had placed the entire resources of the coun- try in the hands of the president, and adopted measures for the increase and efficiency of the army." All the national forces were ordered to their posts, and, in the early part of May, the president ordered a draft of three hundred thousand men. This measure met with considerable opposition ; and, in New York city, on the day when the draft was commenced, a fearful riot broke out among the laboring classes and rebel sympathizers, which was not quelled until the end of three days. " The draft 84 TIIE CIVIL WAR. was enforced in twelve states," and "the government, sustained by every right-minded citizen, went steadily on in its duty." After the emancipation proclamation had been issued, thousands of slaves came within the lines of the union army, and, at the close of the year, sixty thousand colored troops were in the service of the government. On the 25th of January, General Burnside was relieved of the command of the army of the Potomac, and General Hooker appointed in his place. Near the close of April, General Hooker crossed the Rappahannock, and, on the 2d, 3d and 4th of May, he encountered a large rebel force, under General Lee, at Chancellorsville. This was a severe contest, in which neither party gained any advantage. Both sides sustained a heavy loss, and among the rebel slain was the famous " Stonewall" Jackson. On the 28th of June, Hooker was superseded by General George G. Meade. General Lee had advanced from Virginia, through Maryland, into Pennsylvania, during the month of June, and his presence in the latter state produced great terror among the inhabitants. At length, on the 1st of July, he was met at Gettysburg, in Adams county, by General Meade. (See views Nos. 2384, '5, '6 and 7, and 2394, '5 and '6.) The first engagement, on the morning of the 1st, was commanded, on the federal side, by General John F. Reynolds, and on the side of the confederates, by General D. H. Hill. General Reynolds was slain (see view No. 2392). The battle raged, with inter- ruptions, until the evening of the 3d, when the national forces gained a complete victory. They captured three cannon, forty- one banners, over twenty-eight thousand small arms, and nearly fourteen thousand prisoners. The confederates, followed by the army of the Potomac, re- treated into -Virginia beyond the Rappahannock. Both armies lay quiet until the 5th of October, when Lee again moved northward, and destroyed the railroad between the Rapidan river and Manassas Junction. Several skirmishes took place between that time and the early part of November, when Meade drove THE CIVIL WAR. 85 the rebel force back across the Rappahannock, and there en- camped. Nothing more of importance was done by these armies until the next year. During the year 1863, the union troops in North Carolina, under General J. G. Foster, after a series of engagements, gained possession of all of eastern North Carolina north of the Neuse river. The Department of the Gulf, also, under General Banks, with headquarters at New Orleans, was active during this year. In a vigorous raid between New Orleans and Alex- andria, on the Red river, Banks captured twenty-two cannon and two thousand prisoners, besides considerable public property and several steamboats. In company with Admiral Farragut, he captured Port Hudson, on the Mississippi, on the 8th of July. General Banks reports his captures during this campaign to be over ten thousand men "seventy-three guns, six thousand small arms, beside three gunboats, eight other steamboats, and cotton, cattle, &c, to an immense value." He also sent out a successful expedition to Texas. Admiral Dupont, on the 7th of April, attempted the capture of Fort Sumter, but was unsuccessful, because he was not aided by any land forces. General Quincy A. Gillmore was sent to his assistance, and, " on the 23d of August, after a terrible bombardment for seven days, Fort Sumter was reduced, it was reported, to a 'shapeless and harmless mass of ruins.' ' (See views of Fort Sumter.) After Sherman's unsuccessful attack on Vicksburg, in Decem- ber, 1862, he went with General John A. McClernand, who, with the assistance of Admiral Porter, in January, 1863, took possession of Arkansas Post, on the Arkansas river, together with " five thousand prisoners, seventeen guns, three thousand small arms, besides large quantities of munitions and commissary stores." General Grant, who was now at the head of the Army of the Mississippi, began to lay plans for the capture of Vicksburg, a post considered impregnable by the confederates. After several unsuccessful attempts to pass around the city, he, on the 14th of April, crossed the Mississippi and gained two battles near 86 THE CIVIL WAR. Port Gibson, south of Vicksburg, whence he advanced to the rear of the city. He laid siege to the city on the 19th of May. At first he had some trouble in retaining his position, for General Joseph E. Johnston was in his rear with a large force. He persevered, however, in the assault upon Vicksburg, and, on the 4th of July, General John C. Pemberton, the officer in command, surrendered the city to General Grant, and a force was sent, under General Sherman, to hold Johnston in check. General Grant gives, as the result of this campaign, " the defeat of the enemy in five battles outside of Vicksburg ; the occupation of Jackson, the capital of the state of Mississippi, and the capture of Vicksburg and its garrisons and munitions of war ; a loss to the enemy of thirty-seven thousand prisoners, among whom were fifteen general officers ; at least ten thousand killed and wounded, and among the killed Generals Tracy, Tilghman and Green, and hundreds, perhaps thousands of strag- glers, who can never be collected and reorganized. Arms and munitions of war for an army of sixty thousand men have fallen into our hands ; besides a large amount of other public property, consisting of railroads, locomotives, cars, steamboats, cotton, &c. ; and much was destroyed to prevent our capturing it." This was the most brilliant and memorable campaign of the war, and " the heaviest single blow ever given to the muscular resources of the rebellion." This victory, coming, as it did, on the day after that of Meade, at Gettysburg, caused great rejoicing throughout the country. After his victory at Murfreesboro, Tennessee (January 4), General Rosecrans remained quiet until the 25th of June. At that time, however, he again advanced against Bragg, compell- ing him to retire as far as Chattanooga, on the Tennessee river, in the southern part of the state. Rosecrans moved on, took possession of Chattanooga, and, on the 19th of September, en- countered the forces under Bragg, and re-enforcements from Lee, under General James Longstreet, in the Chickamauga val- ley. Rosecrans was compelled to retire to Chattanooga, where he remained until Grant arrived with additional forces. That THE CIVIL WAR. 87 commander, on the 19th of October, left General J. B. McPher- son in command at Vicksburg, and went himself to take command of the army of the Cumberland, at Chattanooga. He restored communication with that place, and, being re-enforced by Sher- man in November, he, on the 23d, commenced the memorable battle of Lookout Mountain and Chattanooga. (See views of Lookout Mountain). A force under General Hooker gained possession of Lookout Mountain, and, on the 25th, the battle terminated in favor of the national army. Bragg fled into Georgia, and Longstreet went to Knoxville, in East Tennessee. Here, on the 29th, he attacked a union force under General Burnside, but, Sherman arriving with re-enforcements from Grant's army, Longstreet fled back to the army under General Lee, in Virginia. During this year, the states of Missouri and Arkansas passed into the hands of the national force in that department, and, on the 26th of July, General John Morgan, the noted guerrilla, surrendered a large force under his command, to General Shack- leford, in Morgan county, Ohio. The navy had also been at work. The rebel ram Atlanta was captured by the Weehawken, of Dupont's fleet, under Captain John Rodgers, off* the coast of Georgia, on the 17th of June. Farragut and Porter had also won several victories on the Mississippi river and its tributaries. At the close of this year, therefore, the people of the loyal north had great cause for rejoicing, and the prospects for the speedy success of the armies of the republic were greater than ever before. 1864. On the 1st of February, of this year, President Lincoln again ordered a draft for three hundred thousand men ; and, on the 15th of March, he issued a call for two hundred thousand more volunteers for the army and navy. Preparations were made at the beginning of the year for another attempt to gain possession of Richmond. On the 16th of January, fifteen miles of the track of the Vir- ginia and Tennessee railroad, west of Lynchburg, were destroyed 88 THE CIVIL WAR. by a band of Union cavalry from the army of the Potomac, under General W. W. Averill. On the 3d of February, General Sherman left Vicksburg on an invasion eastward. He was gone twenty-four days, and his expedition was exceedingly successful. An invading force, under General Truman Seymour, left Port Royal, in South Carolina, on the 5th, and succeeded in making its way to Olustee, where, on the 20th, it was defeated by a large confederate force, and was compelled to fall back to Jacksonville. On the 13th of March, General A. J. Smith, from the army at Vicksburg, together with the fleet of Admiral Porter, captured Fort De Russey, on the Red river. Then, in conjunction with General Banks, they gained two victories — one at Cane river, on the 26th of March, and one at Pleasant Hill on the 9th of April. At this time, General Steele, in command at Arkansas, in endeavoring to join the Red river expedition, was attacked, and lost two hundred wagons and two thousand men. On the 24th of March, the rebel cavalry leader, General N. B. Forrest, cap- tured Union City, in Tennessee, and on the 25th he plundered Paducah, in Kentucky. On the 12th of April he took posses- sion of Fort Pillow, in western Tennessee, on the Mississippi river, where he instituted a general massacre upon colored troops stationed there. The armies of the east and west made preparations for a great campaign at the beginning of the year. The army of the Poto- mac, under General Meade, and the three armies of the west, united under General Sherman, were all eager to meet the foe. On account of his valuable services to the government, General Grant, on the 9th of March, received a commission as Lieuten- ant-General, and was appointed General-in-Chief of the national forces. He took command of the army of the Potomac, with his headquarters in the field, and, on the 3d of May, sent an order to General Sherman to advance against the rebels in Geor- gia, while he, with the Potomac army, should move upon Rich- mond. He crossed the Rapidan and encountered the army of Lee in the " Wilderness," near Chancellorsville, on the 5th of THE CIVIL WAR. 89 May. The number of men engaged in this battle is estimated at two hundred and fifty thousand men. After a severe contest of three days, the confederate army retreated toward Richmond. Grant followed Lee so closely that, in the early part of June, the latter was close upon the outskirts of that city. A force from Fortress Monroe, under General Butler, fortified itself on the Appomattox river, and kept back Beauregard, who was coming up from the Carolinas to the assistance of Lee. Grant soon gained a position near Petersburg, and Lee went south of the Appomattox for the purpose of defending Petersburg. Grant commenced a siege immediately, and destroyed the rail- way connections between Lee's position and Richmond at the close of July, so that the safety of both the army and city were imperiled. He gained several victories over Lee's army during the months of July and August. On the 18th of August, he seized the Weldon railway, the principal line of communication between Lee and the southern part of the confederacy. Several attempts were made by the rebels to recapture it, but in vain. Grant, after having demolished it for a distance of twelve miles, intrenched himself near by, and kept the army of Lee in con- tinual terror. (See views of Atlanta, Georgia.) After receiving Grant's order to march, Sherman, with his vast army, left Chattanooga, and moved toward Atlanta, in Georgia. He fought three heavy battles near there with the confederate force, under General John B. Hood (who had super- seded Johnson), and utterly defeated them each time. In the second battle, July 22d, General McPherson was killed. Sher- man sent out detachments of cavalry to cut off the railway com- munications with the city, and closely besieged it until the 2d of September, when Hood abandoned the place, and Sherman entered in triumph. While these operations were in progress in the United States, a powerful rebel privateer, called the Alabama, under the com- mand of Captain Raphael Scmmes, was producing great havoc among American merchantmen in foreign waters. She carefully avoided all vessels sent against her by the government, until finally, on the 15th of June, the French government ordered 90 THE CIVIL WAR. her to leave their waters, and, in doing so, she encountered a national vessel named the Kearsarge, commanded by Captain John Winslow. The Alabama was sunk, but her commander escaped in an English vessel. In the early part of July, an invading force, under General Jubal A. Early, left Lee's army for the purpose of seizing sup- plies. General Lewis Wallace, with a force numbering about one-third that of Early, met the latter at the Monocacy river. He kept the confederates from Baltimore and Washington, but was compelled by superior numbers to fall back, and Early carried off a large amount of booty. On the 30th of the same month, another force ascended through Maryland, into Pennsyl- vania, as far as the village of Chambersburg, which they set on fire. (See views Nos. 2018, 2019, and 2020.) They immedi- ately returned, after gathering supplies in the Shenandoah val- ley, closely pursued by a force from Grant's army, under Gen- eral Sheridan. On the 5th of August, a fleet under Admiral Farragut, and a co-operating land force under General Gordon Granger, entered Mobile. On the 8th, Fort Gaines, and on the 23d, Fort Morgan were surrendered to Farragut. Both these forts were strong posts at the entrance of Mobile Bay, and were well garrisoned. In view of this and other victories, the president, on the 3d of September, issued a proclamation recommending the next Sun- day, September 11th, as a day of thanksgiving and prayer. In the beginning of November, General Sherman sent General George H. Thomas, with a considerable force, to Tennessee, against Hood, and, on the 14th, he himself left Atlanta on a march to the sea. He captured Milledgeville, the capital of the state of Georgia, on the 29th, and continued his advance toward Savannah, taking possession of that city on the 21st of Decem- ber. General Hood coming up toward Nashville, he was met at Franklin by a portion of Thomas' army, under General Scho- field, on the 30th of November. Schofield was driven back to Nashville, but, on the 15th of December, General Thomas ad- vanced against Hood, and compelled him to flee into Alabama, after suffering great losses. THE CIVIL WAR. 91 On the 8th of November, Abraham Lincoln was re-elected president of the United States, and Andrew Johnson, of Tennes- see, vice president, by the republican party. The democratic candidate was General George B. McClellan. 1865. After the capture of Savannah by General Sherman, he was joined by the army in South Carolina, under General Foster. He moved northward to Columbia, the capital of South Caro- lina, which he captured on the 17th of February. Thence he advanced to Goldsboro, in North Carolina, where, on the 22d of March, he was joined by General Schofield, from Newbern, and General Terry, who had captured Wilmington, on the Cape Fear river, on the 15th of January, assisted by a naval force under Admiral Porter. This united force held Johnston in check at Raleigh, the capital of the state. General Sheridan held command of the Shenandoah valley, and, in the early part of March, he attacked General Early at Charlottesville, and gained a great victory. He then destroyed the railway communication between Richmond and Lynchburg, and, at about the middle of March, he, with General Edward 0. C. Ord, and the army of the James, joined General Grant before Richmond. (See views of Richmond, Virginia.) Lee now endeavored to escape from Richmond, and go to join Johnston, in North Carolina, but, in this he was foiled by Grant, who would not allow him to leave Richmond. After several severely fought battles, in which Lee suffered a loss of over twenty thousand men, he was, at length, obliged to sign terms of capitu- lation. On the 9th of April, the main army of the confederates was surrendered by their general-in-chief to General Grant, and they were paroled as prisoners of war. This was " the death blow to the rebellion." The " president," Jefferson Davis, and the other ring-leaders of the conspiracy fled, and, on the 26th, General Johnston surrendered to General Sherman "on the terms accorded to Lee." The inferior forces were speedily dis- persed, and the war was substantially ended in May. CHAPTER IX. THE CLOSE OF THE WAR. JOHNSON'S ADMINISTRATION. President Lincoln went down to the front on the 24th of March, 1865, and, at the time of the fall of Richmond, he was at Grant's headquarters in City Point, Virginia. The next day, April 4th, he went to Richmond, and held a levee in the de- serted mansion of the late confederate "president." On the 14th of April, four years after the evacuation of Fort Sumter, General Anderson, together with a great many officers, soldiers and civilians, celebrated this anniversary by raising over the ruins the old flag which Anderson carried away with him at the time of the evacuation. (See views Nos. 3137 to 3146, inclusive.) At this time the whole land was filled with rejoicing concern- ing the surrender of Lee, and the probable speedy surrender of Johnston, but, on the morning of the 15th of April, the joy was turned into sorrow by the announcement that, on the previous evening, the president had been stricken down by the hand of an assassin. President Lincoln and General Grant had been invi- ted to visit Ford's theatre on that evening, and it had been pub- licly announced that they would be present. General Grant, on that day, was suddenly called out of the city, but the president, not willing to disappoint the public, went, with his wife and two others. During the progress of the play, John Wilkes Booth, an actor of some note, came into the box from behind, shot the president, and, jumping on the stage, escaped through the back door of the theatre. At the same time, Secretary Seward, who was lying ill at his residence, was severely wounded by a man who had entered the house ostensibly for the purpose of deliver- ing a message from Mr. Seward's attending physician. A plot THE CLOSE OF THE WAR. 93 had been concocted to murder the president, vice president, General Grant, the cabinet officers, and other distinguished per- sons, and the leaders of the " confederacy " were suspected of forming it, in the hope that " in the midst of the confusion that might ensue, their wicked cause might gain an advantage." The plan, however, was unsuccessful. The president was the only one killed. Secretary Seward recovered, and the men appointed to assassinate the other intended victims, failed to carry out their part of the plot. Andrew Johnson was inaugurated president at ten o'clock on the 15th of April, and " the government went steadily on in its course." The remains of the martyred president were taken, by the way of the most important cities of the United States, to his former residence, Springfield, Illinois. Large crowds of people accompanied the funeral procession in every city through which it passed. In Philadelphia the body was seen by one hundred and twenty thousand citizens, and in New York, both to and from the City Hall, where the body was exhibited, the mournful cortege was attended by an immense concourse. (See views of the " funeral of President Lincoln, New York city.") On the 26th of April, the day of the surrender of Johnston, Booth and one of his accomplices, David C. Harrold, were found in a barn near Port Royal, Virginia. Upon their refusal to surrender themselves, the barn was set on fire. At this, Harrold came out and gave himself up, but Booth, still refusing, was shot by a sergeant named Corbett. On the 10th of May, the fugitive president of the " Confed- erate States" was captured by a portion of the fourth Michigan cavalry, under Colonel B. D. Pritchard. They surprised his party in their camp near Irwinsville, Georgia, and, while Davis was attempting to escape in the disguise of a woman, he Avas made a prisoner. He was taken to Washington to await his trial on a charge of treason. On the 7th of July, Harrold, and some others convicted of complicity in the assassination conspiracy, were hung, and other accomplices punished by banishment or imprisonment. y4 THE CLOSE OF THE WAR. On the 29th of May, 1866, the nation was again thrown into mourning by the intelligence that the veteran General Scott had died at West Point, New York, at the advanced age of eighty years. On the 22d of February, 1866, President Johnson made a speech to a crowd that had assembled in front of his house, in which he placed himself in opposition to the party who had elected him, and, from that time until the close of his adminis- tration, attempted to enforce a policy odious to the great mass of the loyal people of the north, and in direct opposition to the legislation of congress. From the date of his speech until the adjournment of the thirty-ninth congress, March, 186T, out of fifteen bills which had passed both houses of congress, ten were vetoed by the president, six of which were passed over his head ; one was a pocket veto, and four became laws without his signature. On the 6th of May, 1867, Jefferson Davis was admitted to bail in the sum of one hundred thousand dollars. His bail bond was signed by Horace Greeley, Augustus Schell, J. Minor Botts, and several leading Richmond secessionists. After two unsuccessful attempts, by members of the fortieth congress, to impeach the president for "high crimes and misde- meanors," one in June and the other in December, 1867, articles of impeachment were finally drawn up in March, 1868. The trial closed on the 6th of May. The members of the senate constituted the jury. A vote of two-thirds of the members was required to convict the president, and he was acquitted by a vote of nineteen to thirty-five ; so he continued the occupant of the presidential chair until the close of his term. On the 3d of November, General Ulysses S. Grant was elected president of the United States, and Schuyler Colfax, of Indiana, the speaker of the house of representatives, vice president. On the 4th of March, 1869, Chief Justice Salmon P. Chase admin- istered the oath of office to President Grant. Now, with this battle-scarred chieftain at the helm of the ship of [state, let us hope that the great work of reconstruction, THE CLOSE OF THE WAR. 95 which has been so successfully commenced, may be speedily completed ; that the whole nation, from the lakes to the gulf, and from ocean to ocean, may be united in advancing the best inter- ests of the government ; and that our common country, by the blessing of Almighty God, may henceforth, as heretofore, be an asylum for the oppressed and persecuted of all lands, and con- tinue, in all future time, to hold her proud position at the head of the nations of the earth. CHAPTER X. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. The term Indian, as applied to the various nations and tribes that inhabited the western continent at the time of its discovery by the Spaniards, originated in the mistaken idea that the new- ly-found continent formed a part of Asia. By some ethnologists the American Indians are classed as a distinct variety of the human race, and are as peculiar to the American continent as its fauna and flora. Their history, previous to the settlements made among them by the Europeans, is involved in obscurity. But the supposition that they are not the descendants of Adam and Eve is erroneous, as it is contrary to the Bible. Other ethnologists refer their origin to the great Mongolian family, who have found their way from Asia across Behring's Strait. This Strait is only thirty-six miles wide, and during severe winter seasons it is frozen over, forming an easy mode of communication between the two continents ; or the passage across may have been made in boats which have been driven over by storms. According to some historians, the Indians owe their origin to the "lost tribes of Israel," who, we are told, "took counsel to go forth into a farther country, where never mankind dwelt." These tribes, it is thought by some, crossed over into America, and are the progenitors of the Indian race. This theory is, however, unsupported by acknowledged facts. The era of their existence as a distinct nation probably dates back to a short time subsequent to the dispersion at Babel, which gave to each branch of the human family its language and indi- viduality. At this time mankind penetrated beyond the Plains of Shinar, and gradually spread over Northern Asia, where, by adventure or accident, they reached the new continent. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 97 After the confusion of tongues, a large body of shepherds, driving their flocks before them, moved to Egypt, made a con- quest of the country, founded an empire under the name of the Shepherd Kings, built large cities, and constructed the massive pyramids on which their history is recorded in hieroglyphics. Their tyranny became unendurable, and the Egyptians drove them from their land. These defeated shepherds, it is thought by some, crossed into America in the manner before described, and it is probable they are the progenitors of the Indians who inhabited Mexico. The mounds and ancient works, the ruins of which still remain ; also the manner of interring their dead, cor- responding with the Egyptians, confirm this opinion. The character and language of the various tribes that peopled our country, differed so materially from Mexican Indians, that it is highly probable that they were descendants from a later body of Asiatic adventurers than the latter. The first settlers were somewhat advanced in civilization and the mechanical arts. Remains of some of their structures are still to be seen in various parts of our country. They were probably driven from their settlements further to the south by less civilized tribes, until the whole continent was peopled. The traditions of the Indians do but little to lift the veil of mystery that shrouds their origin. They entertain the idea that they are an insulated race, distinct from other people, and had their origin in the ground. Hence their name, Aborigines. According to one tradition, they climbed from the interior to the surface of the globe, by means of the roots of a large vine. By another account, their ancestors, after living under ground for ages, discovered the light of day through an aperture of a cavern, and by almost superhuman efforts, emerged from their subterranean prison. By another tradition, their fathers crossed a tract of water to reach their present habitation. The Indian tribes are classified in reference to their dialects, into eight distinct families, of which the Algonquins is the largest. This name was given them by the French. They 7 98 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. occupied a great portion of the United States east of the Mis- sissippi and north of North Carolina and Tennessee. It was composed of several powerful tribes, and the number of its Avar- riors exceeded those of all the other tribes together. The Huron Iroquois tribes occupied the territory of Canada south of the Ottawa river, and portions of the states of New York, Ohio, and Pennsylvania. To this family belonged the Five Nations. They were joined by the Tuscaroras, making a confederacy known as the Six Nations. The English obtained their friendship and assistance during the French war. Chiefs from each of these nations met the colonial representatives at a congress assembled at Albany, where a plan of an American union was presented by Benjamin Franklin. Hendric, the Mo- hawk warrior, urged its acceptance. " We thank you," he said, " for brightening the covenant chain. We will take this belt to Onondaga, where our council fire always burns, and keep it so securely that neither the thunderbolt nor the lightning shall break it. Strengthen yourselves, and bring as many as you can into this covenant chain." The Dakotahs, or Sioux, were a large family west of the Mis- sissippi ; hence but little was known about them by the early settlers. The Catawbas were a powerful family, inhabiting the interior of South Carolina, but were vanquished and nearly exterminated by the Iroquois. They assisted the people of South Carolina in their wars with the Cherokees and other hostile tribes ; also aided them during the revolution. When the civil war broke out in 1861, the survivors of this nation, numbering less than one hundred souls, occupied a small village on the Catawba river. The Catawbas were joined on the west by the Cherokees, who occupied the territory of the Blue Kidge and Alleghanies, one of the most delightful places in the United States. They had long and bloody wars with the Five Nations. They aided the British during the revolution, and for a number of years there- after the frontier of the Carolinas suffered from their ravages. A treaty was made with them in 1791, and no more trouble THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 99 ensued. In 1812, they assisted the United States in subjuga- ting the Creeks, under their fierce chief, Tecumseh. They rap- idly advanced in civilization, and schools and a printing press were established, but they were obliged to seek a new home in the wilderness. They now constitute the largest, most civilized, and prosperous of the Indian tribes, notwithstanding the inju- ries they suffered during the late civil war. They now number about fifteen thousand souls. The Uchees, a remnant of a once powerful tribe, were the sixth of the Indian families. But little of their history is known. They never occupied any other region than the northern part of Georgia. They boasted that they were the descendants of the most ancient inhabitants of the region in which they were found. Their language differed from the other families in being more harsh and guttural. The Natchez occupied territory on the east bank of the Mis- sissippi, in the vicinity of the city which bears their name. Their early history is not known, but from a tradition which they retained of having seen "warriors of fire" where they formerly lived, which no doubt refers to Cortes' soldiers, we may infer that they were connected with the Mexican Indians. The Natchez were jealous of the French, whom they considered as intruders, and determined to drive them from their country. They were unsuccessful, and were nearly exterminated by their enemy. Those who survived joined the Creek confederacy, and their original language has become extinct. The Mobilian family was composed of a group of tribes. Their territory extended over the region between the Atlantic and the Mississippi, bounded on the north by the Ohio river, and on the south by the Gulf of Mexico. The most powerful and important tribe of this family was the Creeks. Though strong and warlike, considerable attention was given to agricul- ture, and, when not engaged in war, they assisted the women in cultivating the soil. They were a source of great annoyance to the white settlers on the Georgia frontier, and during the revo- lution they assisted the British. The Seminoles, a part of the Creek confederacy, caused much trouble in Florida. They were 100 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. finally subjugated in 1842, after which the greater portion of the tribe moved beyond the Mississippi. The Choctaws and Chickasaws are also members of the Mobilian family. The Choctaws, when first discovered by the Europeans, were en- gaged in agricultural pursuits, were possessed of quiet habits, and never engaged in war, except for their defense. The brave Chickasaws were the early friends of the English. They aided the English during the revolution, but since that time have been friendly with the United States. Light is often shed upon the history of a people by a study of their language. A great variety of dialects were used by the Indians, bearing a general resemblance to each other, but suffi- cient difference was discovered to group them into eight families. Their language possesses a wild grandeur, and much less irregu- larity than cultivated tongues. The simple child of nature, unacquainted with art, science, commerce, and mechanical indus- try, had need of but few words ; yet, as an intelligent being, governed by passions and affections, he required some mode of expressing his thoughts and feelings, and we find him in all parts of the continent possessing a language suited to his condition. None of the Indian languages were written, but an ingenious Cherokee seeing the books used by missionaries, and learning that the characters which they contained represented the sounds used by them in speaking, without any knowledge of other lan- guages, succeeded in making an alphabet for his own language, consisting of eighty-five characters, representing syllables, of which there are but eighty-five in their language. The Chero- kee words are short, and it requires but little study to enable one to read and write it with ease. The Indians, though unable to write, like the Egyptians and other ancient nations, conveyed their thoughts by pictures or hieroglyphics, by which means they communicated with each other. The Mexicans, at the time of Cortes' invasion, informed their king of the arrival of the Spaniards and their ships, by pieces of white linen, on which were painted objects resembling vessels and men in Spanish garb. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 101 Hieroglyphics have been found on rocks and trees in different parts of our country. These, with their oral traditions, are all they possess of their past history. Figures abound in the In- dian language, often rendering it sublime. " Many Indian chiefs were as distinguished for their eloquence as for their courage. Their delivery was animated, dignified and forcible ; their ges- ticulation graceful and natural. Some of their speeches have scarcely been surpassed by the greatest efforts of civilized orators." The relics of the Aborigines may be considered under two classes. Those of recent origin, such as rude weapons and orna- ments, and those of ancient origin, among which are ruins of fortifications, fire places, weapons, utensils and ornaments of copper, brass and silver, walls of cities, sculptured columns, and catacombs containing mummies. In the Illinois salt works were found the remains of a well and drain, also ashes and fragments of pottery, and in other salt-springs have been found vessels suitable for evaporating water. From discoveries made in the copper mines of Lake Superior, it is probable they have been worked before. In Ohio, a silver cup was discovered in a mound which had been partially undermined by a stream. Isinglass mirrors have been discovered many feet below the surface. The number of mounds erected in North America is variously estimated at from five to ten thousand. These are most numer- ous in Mexico and Central America. They also abound in ruins and remains of cities, temples, pyramids, and sculptured columns which equal in grandeur and magnificence those of the old world. (See views of Central America.) The Mexicans and Peruvians were the only two of the many nations that peopled this continent at the time it was first ex- plored by the Spaniards, who had attained to any high degree of civilization. The Indians are characterized by a red or copper color, a square head with a low, broad forehead, full face and prominent cheek bones, their eyes dark and expressive, their hair black, coarse, and straight ; their forms erect and well proportioned, and their powers of endurance remarkable. 102 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. The men were employed in war, hunting and fishing. When engaged in the chase or war, the ground, without shelter, formed their bed ; they had no protection except the fires they kindled to prevent attacks from wild beasts. The women bore all the burdens during journeys. They built the huts or wigwams in which they lived, planted and gathered their crops, and dressed skins for clothing. Manual labor was considered beneath a warrior ; hence all menial labor was performed by the women. Their wigwams were made of poles, covered with skins, mats, or bark of trees. They were constructed with little labor, and abandoned when a change of residence was desired. They were generally found grouped together in villages. (See Indian views.) For a great portion of the year they subsisted on game, fish, and roots. When these resources failed they resorted to maize or Indian corn. Their money consisted of little tubes, made of common clam shells ; they were fastened upon belts and called wampum. A regular union between husband and wife was universal among all the tribes. The men had a right to as many wives as they could support. The marriage tie generally lasted till death, but by some, wives were taken and dismissed at pleasure. The Indian warrior compelled his wife, or squaw, to do all the drudge- ry, and often treated her with cruelty. For his children he entertained a stronger affection. Education among the Indians consisted chiefly in such train- ing as would enable them to endure hardships, hunger and fatigue ; they also practiced athletic exercises. The Indian boy, at the age of eight years, was required to do without food and drink for half a day. When he was twelve his face was black- ened, and he was required to fast a whole day at a time. At eighteen his face was blackened for the last time ; he was taken into the woods and remained there without food as long as life could be so supported. He was then taken home, praised for his endurance, and henceforth considered himself a man. Indian wars were usually carried on by small parties ; they could not act in large bodies with much success, from a want of THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 103 discipline. Their object was to surprise the enemy, and kill as many as possible. Their honors were counted by the number of scalps they obtained. They depended for food on the game they might secure in the forest. Their weapons were bows and arrows, tomahawks of stone, and scalping-knives of bone, until the arrival of the Europeans, when they were made of iron. A captive was taken to the village of his conquerors, where he was obliged to " run the gauntlet " between two lines of the savages, who beat him as he passed. He then was adopted into the tribe or burned at the stake. Each tribe, among the Indians, had its chief or sachem, who generally excelled the rest of his tribe in cunning, bravery or eloquence. They had no laws, and during peace the chiefs exer- cised no authority. If a wrong was perpetrated, its punishment was left to the party who suffered it, and not to the tribe. Different modes of burial prevailed in different tribes. Some bodies were buried in a sitting posture, some were laid on the ground, and a little house, covered with bark, erected over them. By some tribes bodies were deposited in rude coffins and placed on a high scaffold. By others they were placed on the boughs of trees, where they remained until, from decomposition, the bones fell to the ground. The dead were buried with their bows and arrows, tomahawks, saddles, food and tobacco. Sometimes a favorite horse and dog were killed and interred with their master ; in fact, every thing they value in life is buried with them, so as to be ready for use on entering the spirit land. (See views of Indian graves.) The Indians of the present day preserve these customs. The funeral service consists of a prayer to the Great Spirit, of which the following is an example : " We are sorry to part with our brother, who was a daring brave and a good Indian, and whose lodge contained many scalps of his enemies. But we have yielded to Thy will, and we commit him to Thy care. We have outfitted him as Thou seest, for his journey ; and now we desire Thee to lead him to the fair land beyond the setting sun, where game is always plentiful, and bad Indians and white men never come." 104 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. The Indians believed in a God or " Great Spirit " whom they worshiped, and to whom they prayed for courage and success in war. It was a general belief among the different tribes that the Deity possesses a human form. With their general idea of the Deity and the creation various traditions were blended. Accord- ing to the tradition of the Chippewas, a man was created and placed on the earth during the summer season. He subsisted on berries until winter, when he supported life by hunting. Finding it difficult to walk through deep snow, he attempted to make a snow-shoe. He succeeded, without difficulty, in making the frame, but being unable to weave in the web, he abandoned it. Every evening, on returning from hunting, he perceived that the work was progressing. This he attributed to a bird which he captured by strategem, and it immediately changed into a beautiful woman. The Indians believe in the existence of good and evil spirits ; the former of whom endow certain persons with superior power. These were called medicine men. If in case of disease a cure was effected by one of them, he was thought to have gained a victory over the evil spirit, and if unsuccessful it was through no fault of the medicine man, and the blame was attached to the evil spirit. They imagined that the soul when freed from the body passed over a dark river, into which the wicked were precipitated, where they remained forever struggling among the waves, or were borne to a place of torment. The good crossed in safety, and hastened to the happy hunting grounds which abounded in the choicest game. A want of foresight is peculiar to the Indian race. This deficiency in their character has been the cause of much distress. They provide but little food at a time, and consequently when no game is to be obtained they suffer greatly from want of food. Among other prominent traits of character are caution and for- titude. When among friends or enemies every word and action is looked upon with suspicion, and, when undergoing the most excruciating tortures at the hand of an enemy, their sufferings are betrayed by neither sigh nor groan. THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. 105 The Indians inhabiting the Indian territory at the present time number about one hundred and fifty thousand. The United States purchased the lands they occupied, and gives them others ■within the new territory which the government has assigned them, transports them, furnishes agricultural implements, plows and fences a portion of their fields, erects school-houses and sup- ports teachers in them the year through. (See views of govern- ment school.) A form of government in each tribe has been established sim- ilar to the state governments. The Choctaws inhabit the southern part of the territory, and are engaged in the cultivation of corn, flax, hemp, tobacco, and cotton. Their government is divided into four departments ; legislative, executive, judicial and military. The Chickasaws have amassed considerable wealth from the sale of their lands east of the Mississippi, to the United States. They have a fund of ten thousand dollars annually applied to education. The Cherokees take the lead in civilization. Their form of government is similar to the Choctaws. They work the lead mines, manufacture salt, and are also engaged in agriculture. The Creeks, among which are about sixteen hundred Semi- noles, are less advanced in civilization, and their form of gov- ernment less perfect than the other tribes. The emigrating tribes are the Senecas, Shawnees, Pottawato- mies, Iowas, Weas, Piankashaws, Peorias, Kaskaskias, Ottawas, Delawarcs, Kickapoos, Wyandots, Sacs and Foxes, all of which are more or less civilized, and receive annuities from the gov- ernment. The native tribes residing in the Indian territory are the Paw- nees, Sioux, Quapaws, Kansas, Otoes, Omahoes and Ponsars, all of which are in a degraded condition. They receive annu- ties from the United States. (See views of Sioux and Pawnees.) The Camanches are a warlike tribe, living south of the Great Platte. They follow the buifalo north in summer, and in winter return with them to the plains of Texas. North of the Great Platte arc fifteen or twenty small tribes. 106 THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. In the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains are Shoshonees or Snakes, Arapahoes, Crows and Blackfeet, the last two of which are very warlike tribes. The Blackfeet stole a blanket, infected with small pox, from the American Fur company, which caused the disease to spread all through their tribe, and they were reduced in number about two-thirds. Such is the brief history of the Aboriginal nations that inhab- ited our country, and annihilation seems to be their destiny. " The great garden of the western world needed tillers, and white men came. They have thoroughly changed the condition of the land and the people. The light of civilization has re- vealed, and industry developed, vast treasures in the soil, while, before its radiance, the Aboriginals are rapidly melting like snow in the sunbeams. A few generations will pass, and no represen- tatives of the North American Indians will remain upon the earth." CHAPTER XI. DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. A DECLARATION BY THE REPRESENTATIVES OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, IN CONGRESS ASSEMBLED. When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have con- nected them with another, and to assume, among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the laws of nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation. We hold these truths to be self-evident — that all men are created equal ; that they are endowed by their Creator with certain inalienable rights ; that among these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. That, to secure these rights, govern- ments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed ; that, whenever any form of government becomes destructive of these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or abolish it, and to institute a new govern- ment, laying its foundations on such principles, and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes ; and, accordingly, all experience hath shown that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same object, evinces a design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such government, and to provide new guards for their future security. Such has been the patient 108 DECLAKATION OF INDEPENDENCE. sufferance of these colonies, and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former systems of government. The history of the present king of Great Britain, is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute tyranny over these states. To prove this, let facts be submitted to a candid world. He has refused his assent to laws the most wholesome and necessary for the public good. He has forbidden his governors to pass laws of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operations till his assent should be obtained ; and, when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them. He has refused to pass other laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish the right of representation in the legislature — a right inestima- ble to them, and formidable to tyrants only. He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the repository of their public records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures. He has dissolved representative houses repeatedly, for oppos- ing, with manly firmness, his invasions on the rights of the people. He has refused, for a long time after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected, whereby the legislative powers, inca- pable of annihilation, have returned to the people at large for their exercise ; the state remaining, in the meantime, exposed to all the dangers of invasions from without, and convulsions within. He has endeavored to prevent the population of these states; for that purpose obstructing the laws for the naturalization of foreigners ; refusing to pass others to encourage their migration hither, and raising the conditions of new appropriations of lands. He has obstructed the administration of justice, by refusing his assent to laws for establishing judiciary powers. DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. 109 He has made judges dependent on his will alone for the ten- ure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries. He has erected a multitude of new offices, and sent hither swarms of officers to harass our people and eat out their sub- stance. He has kept among us in times of peace, standing armies, without the consent of our legislatures. He has affected to render the military independent of, and superior to, the civil power. He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitutions, and unacknowledged by our laws; giving his assent to their acts of pretended legislation ; For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us ; For protecting them, by a mock trial, from punishment for any murders which they should commit on the inhabitants of these states ; For cutting off our trade with all parts of the world ; For imposing taxes on us without our consent ; For depriving us, in many cases, of the benefits of trial by jury; For transporting us beyond seas, to be tried for pretended offenses ; For abolishing the free system of English laws in a neighbor- ing province, establishing therein an arbitrary government, and enlarging its boundaries, so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule into these colonies ; For taking away our charters, abolishing our most valuable laws, and altering, fundamentally, the forms of our governments ; For suspending our own legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever. He has abdicated government here, by declaring us out of his protection, and waging war against us. He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burned our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people. 110 DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. He is at this time transporting large armies of foreign merce- naries, to complete the works of death, desolation, and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of cruelty and perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the head of a civilized nation. He has constrained our fellow-citizens, taken captive on the high seas, to bear arms against their country, to become the executioners of their friends and brethren, or to fall themselves by their hands. He has excited domestic insurrection among us, and has endeav- orecl to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian savages, whose known rule of warfare is an undistin- guished destruction of all ages, sexes, and conditions. In every stage of these oppressions we have petitioned for redress in the most humble terms ; our repeated petitions have been answered only by repeated injury. A prince whose char- acter is thus marked by every act which may define a tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people. Nor have we been wanting in our attentions to our British brethren. We have warned them, from time to time, of attempts by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emi- gration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred, to disavow these usurpations, which would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence. They, too, have been deaf to the voice of justice and of con- sanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity which compels our separation, and hold them as we hold the rest of mankind — enemies in war — in peace, friends. We, therefore, the representatives of the United States of America, in general congress assembled, appealing to the Su- preme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the name and by the authority of the good people of these colonies, solemnly publish and declare that these united colonies are, and of right ought to be, free and independent DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE. Ill states ; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British crown, and that all political connection between them and the state of Great Britain is, and ought to be, totally dissolved; and that, as free and independent states, they have full power to levy war, conclude peace, contract alliances, establish commerce, and do all other acts and things which independent states may of right do. And for the support of this Declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutual- ly pledge to each other our lives, our fortunes, and our sacred honor. CHAPTER XII. CONSTITUTION OF THE UNITED STATES. We, the People of the United States, in order to form a more perfect Union, establish justice, insure domestic tranquillity, provide for the common defence, promote the general welfare, and secure the blessings of liberty to ourselves and our pos- terity, do ordain and establish this Constitution for the United States of America. ARTICLE I. Section 1. All the legislative powers herein granted shall be vested in a congress of the United States, which shall consist of a senate and house of representatives. Sec. 2. The house of representatives shall be composed of members chosen every second year by the people of the several states, and the electors in each state shall have the qualifica- tions requisite for electors of the most numerous branch of the state legislature. No person shall be a representative who shall not have at- tained to the age of twenty-five years, and been seven years a citizen of the United States, and who shall not, when elected, be an inhabitant of that state in which he shall be chosen. Representatives and direct taxes shall be apportioned among the several states which may be included within this union, ac- cording to their respective numbers, which shall be determined by adding to the whole number of free persons, including those bound to service for a term of years, and excluding Indians not taxed, three-fifths of all other persons. The actual enumeration shall be made within three years after the first meeting of the congress of the United States, and within every subsequent term of ten years, in such manner as they shall by law direct. The CONSTITUTION. 113 number of representatives shall not exceed one for every thirty thousand, but each state shall have at least one representative ; and until such enumeration shall be made, the state of New Hampshire shall be entitled to choose three, Massachusetts eight, Rhode Island and Providence plantations one, Connecticut five, New York six, New Jersey four, Pennsylvania eight, Delaware one, Maryland six, Virginia ten, North Carolina five, South Carolina five, and Georgia three. When vacancies happen in the representation from any state, the executive authority thereof shall issue writs of election to fill such vacancies. The house of representatives shall choose their speaker and other officers ; and shall have the sole power of impeachment. Sec. 3. The senate of the United States shall be composed of two senators from each state, chosen by the legislature thereof, for six years ; and each senator shall have one vote. Immediately after they shall be assembled in consequence of the first election, they shall be divided as equally as may be into three classes. The seats of the senators of the first class shall be vacated at the expiration of the second year, of the second class at the expiration of the fourth year, and of the third class at the expiration of the sixth year, so that one-third may be chosen every second year ; and if vacancies happen by resigna- tion, or otherwise, during the recess of the legislature of any state, the executive thereof may make temporary appointments until the next meeting of the legislature, which shall then fill such vacancies. No person shall be a senator who shall not have attained to the age of thirty years, and been nine years a citizen of the United States, and who shall not, when elected, be an inhabitant of that state for which he shall be chosen. The vice president of the United States shall be president of the Senate, but shall have no vote, unless they be equally divided. The senate shall choose their other officers, and also a presi- dent pro tempore, in the absence of the vice president, or when he shall exercise the office of president of the United States. 8 ^114 CONSTITUTION OF THE The senate shall have the sole power to try all impeachments. When sitting for that purpose, they shall be on oath or affirma- tion. When the president of the United States is tried, the chief justice shall preside ; and no person shall be convicted without the concurrence of two-thirds of the members present. Judgment in cases of impeachment shall not extend further than to removal from office, and disqualification to hold and en- joy any office of honor, trust or profit under the United States ; but the party convicted shall nevertheless be liable and subject to indictment, trial, judgment and punishment, according to law. Sec. 4. The times, places and manner of holding elections for senators and representatives, shall be prescribed in each state by the legislature thereof ; but the congress may at any time by law make or alter such regulations, except as the places of choos- ing senators. The congress shall assemble at least once in every year, and such meeting shall be on the first Monday in December, unless they shall by law appoint a different day. Sec. 5. Each house shall be the judge of the elections, re- turns, and qualifications of its own members, and a majority of each shall constitute a quorum to do business ; but a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be authorized to compel the attendance of absent members, in such manner and under such penalties as each house may provide. Each house may determine the rules of its proceedings, pun- ish its members for disorderly behavior, and, with the concur- rence of two-thirds, expel a member. Each house shall keep a journal of its proceedings, and from time to time publish the same, excepting such parts as may in their judgment require secrecy; and the yeas and nays of the members of either house on any question shall, at the desire of one-fifth of those present, be entered on the journal. Neither house, during the session of congress, shall, without the consent of the other, adjourn for more than three days, nor to any other place than that in which the two houses shall be sitting. UNITED STATES. 115 Sec. 6. The senators and representatives shall receive a compensation for their services, to be ascertained by law and paid out of the treasury of the United States. They shall in all cases, except treason, felony, and breach of the peace, be privi- liared from arrest during their attendance at the sessions of their respective houses, and in going to and returning from the same; and for any speech or debate in either house, they shall not be questioned in any other place. No senator or representative shall, during the time for which he was elected, be appointed to any civil office under the author- ity of the United States, which shall have been created, or the emoluments whereof shall have been increased during such time ; and no person holding any office under the United States shall be a member of either house during his continuance in office. Sec. 7. All bills for raising revenue shall originate in the house of representatives ; but the senate may propose or con- cur with amendments as on other bills. Every bill which shall have passed the house of representa- tives and the senate, shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the president of the United States. If he approve, he shall sign it ; but if not, he shall return it, with his objections, to that house in which it shall have originated, who shall enter the objections at large on their journal, and proceed to reconsider it. If, after such reconsideration, two-thirds of that house shall agree to pass the bill, it shall be sent, together with the objec- tions,, to the other house, by which it shall likewise be recon- sidered, and if approved by two-thirds of that house, it shall become a law. But in all such cases the votes of both houses shall be determined by yeas and nays, and the names of the persons voting for and against the bill shall be entered on the journal of each house respectively. If any bill shall not be returned by the president within ten days (Sundays excepted) after it shall have been presented to him, the same shall be a law, in like manner as if he had signed it, unless the congress, by their adjournment, prevent its return, in which case it shall not be a law. 11G CONSTITUTION OF THE Every order, resolution, or vote to which the concurrence of the senate and house of representatives may he necessary (ex- cept on a question of adjournment) shall be presented to the president of the United States ; and before the same shall take effect, shall be approved by him ; or, being disapproved by him, shall be repassed by two-thirds of the senate and house of rep- resentatives, according to the rules and limitations prescribed in the case of a bill. Sec. 8. The congress shall have power — To lay and collect taxes, duties, imposts and excises, to pay the debts and provide for the common defense and general wel- fare of the United States ; but all duties, imposts and excises shall be uniform throughout the United States ; To borrow money on the credit of the United States ; To regulate commerce with foreign nations, and among the several states, and with the Indian tribes ; To establish an uniform rule of naturalization, and uniform laws on the subject of bankruptcies throughout the United States; To coin money, regulate the value thereof and of foreign coin, and fix the standard of weights and measures ; To provide for the punishment of counterfeiting the securities and current coin of the United States ; To establish post offices and post roads ; To promote the progress of science and useful arts, by secur- ing for limited times to authors and inventors the exclusive right to their respective writings and discoveries ; To constitute tribunals inferior to the supreme court ; To define and punish piracies and felonies committed on the high seas, and offenses against the law of nations ; To declare war, grant letters of marque and reprisal, and make rules concerning captures on land and water ; To raise and support armies; but no appropriation of money to that use shall be for a longer term than two years ; To provide and maintain a navy ; To make rules for the government and regulation of the land and naval forces ; UNITED STATES. 117 To provide for calling forth the militia to execute the laws of the union, suppress insurrections and repel invasions ; To provide for organizing, arming, and disciplining the militia, and for governing such part of them as may be employed in the service of the United States, reserving to the states respectively the appointment of the officers, and the authority of training the militia according to the discipline prescribed by congress ; To exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whatsoever, over such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular states, and tne acceptance of congress, become the seat of the government of the United States, and to exercise like authority over all places purchased by the consent of the legislature of the state in which the same shall be, for the erec- tion of forts, magazines, arsenals, dock yards, and other needful buildings ; and To make all laws which shall be necessary and proper for car- rying into execution the foregoing powers, and all other powers vested by this constitution in the government of the United States, or in any department or officer thereof. Sec. 9. The migration or importation of such persons as any of the states now existing shall think proper to admit, shall not be prohibited by the congress prior to the year one thousand eight hundred and eight, but a tax or duty may be imposed on such importation, not exceeding ten dollars for each person. The privilege of the writ of habeas corpus shall not be sus- pended, unless when, in cases of rebellion or invasion, the pub- lic safety may require it. No bill of attainder or ex post facto law shall be passed. No capitation, or other direct tax, shall be laid, unless in pro- portion to the census or enumeration hereinbefore directed to be taken. No tax or duty shall be laid on articles exported from any state. No preference shall be given by any regulation of commerce or revenue to the ports of one state over those of another ; nor shall vessels bound to or from one state, be obliged to enter, clear, or pay duties in another. 118 CONSTITUTION OF THE No money shall be drawn from the treasury but in consequence of appropriations made by law ; and a regular statement and account of the receipts and expenditures of all public money shall be published from time to time. No title of nobility shall be granted by the United States ; And no person holding any office of profit or trust under them shall, without the consent of the congress, accept of any present, emolument, office, or title, of any kind whatever, from any king, prince, or foreign state. Sec. 10. No state shall enter into any treaty, alliance, or confederation ; grant letters of marque or reprisal ; coin money ; emit bills of credit ; make anything but gold and silver coin a tender in payment of debts ; pass any bill of attainder, ex post facto law, or law impairing the obligation of contracts, or grant any title of nobility. No state shall, without the consent of the congress, lay any imposts or duties on imports or exports, except what may be ab- solutely necessary for executing its inspection laws ; and the net produce of all duties and imposts, laid by any state on imports or exports, shall be for the use of the treasury of the United States; and all such laws shall be subject to the revision and control of the congress. No state shall, without the consent of congress, lay any duty of tonnage, keep troops, or ships of war in time of peace, enter into any agreement or compact with another state, or with a foreign power, or engage in war, unless actually invaded, or in Such imminent danger as will not admit of delay. ARTICLE II. Section 1. The executive power shall be vested in a presi- dent of the United States of America. He shall hold his office during the term of four years, and, together with the vice-presi- dent, chosen for the same term, be elected as follows : Each state shall appoint, in such manner as the legislature thereof may direct, a number of electors, equal to the whole number of senators and representatives to which the state may UNITED STATES. 119 be entitled in the congress ; but no senator or representative, or person holding an office of trust or profit under the United States, shall he appointed an elector. [The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by ballot for two persons, of whom one, at least, shall not be an in- habitant of the same state with themselves. And they shall make a list of all the persons voted for, and of the number of votes for each ; which list they shall sign and certify, and trans- mit sealed to the seat of the government of the United States, directed to the president of the senate. The president of the senate shall, in the presence of the senate and house of repre- sentatives, open all the certificates, and the votes shall then be counted. The person having the greatest number of votes shall be the president, if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors appointed ; and if there be more than one who have such majority and have an equal number of votes, then the house of representatives shall immediately choose by ballot one of them for president ; and if no person have a ma- jority, then from the five highest on the list the said house shall in like manner choose the president. But in choosing the presi- dent, the votes shall be taken by states, the representation from each state having one vote ; a quorum for this purpose shall consist of a member or members from two-thirds of the states, and a majority of all the states shall be necessary to a choice. In every case, after the choice of the president, the person having the greatest number of votes of the electors shall be the vice-president. But if there should remain two or more who have equal votes, the senate shall choose from them by ballot the vice-president].* The congress may determine the time of choosing the electors, and the day on which they shall give their votes ; which day shall be the same throughout the United States. No person except a natural born citizen, or a citizen of the United States, at the time of the adoption of this Constitution, shall be eligible to the office of president ; neither shall any * This clause is annulled. See amendments, article XII. 120 CONSTITUTION OF THE person be eligible to that office who shall not have attained to the age of thirty-five years, and been fourteen years a resident within the United States. In case of the removal of the president from office, or of his death, resignation, or inability to discharge the powers and duties of the said office, the same shall devolve on the vice-pres- ident, and the congress may by law provide for the case of re- moval, death, resignation, or inability, both of the president and vice-president, declaring what officer shall then act as president, and such officer shall act accordingly, until the disability be removed, or a president shall be elected. The president shall, at stated times, receive for, his services a compensation, which shall neither be increased nor diminished during the period for which he shall have been elected, and he shall not receive within that period any other emolument from the United States, or any of them. Before he enters on the execution of his office, he shall take the following oath or affirmation : — " I do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will faithfully execute the office of president of the United States, and will, to the best of my ability, preserve, pro- tect and defend the constitution of the United States." Sec. 2. The president shall be commander-in-chief of the army and navy of the United States, and of the militia of the several states, when called into the actual service of the United States ; he may require the opinion, in writing, of the principal officer in each of the executive departments, upon any subject relating to the duties of their respective offices, and he shall have power to grant reprieves and pardons for offenses against the United States, except in cases of impeachment. He shall have power, by and with the advice and consent of the senate, to make treaties, provided two-thirds of the senators present concur ; and he shall nominate, and, by and with the advice and consent of the senate, shall appoint ambassadors, other public ministers and consuls, judges of the supreme court, and all other officers of the United States, whose appointments are not herein otherwise provided for, and which shall be estab- lished by law ; but the congress may by law vest the appointment UNITED STATES. 121 of such inferior officers as they think proper, in the president alone, in the courts of law, or in the heads of departments. The president shall have power to fill up all vacancies that may happen during the recess of the senate, by granting com- missions, which shall expire at the end of their next session. Sec. 3. He shall from time to time give to the congress information of the state of the Union, and recommend to their consideration such measures as he shall judge necessary and expedient ; he may, on extraordinary occasions, convene both houses, or either of them, and, in case of disagreement between them, with respect to the time of adjournment, he may adjourn them to such time as he shall think proper ; he shall receive am- bassadors and other public ministers ; he shall take care that the laws be faithfully executed, and shall commission all the officers of the United States. Sec. 4. The president, vice-president and all civil officers of the United States, shall be removed from office on impeachment for, and conviction of, treason, bribery, or other high crimes and misdemeanors. ARTICLE III. Section 1. The judicial power of the United States shall be vested in one supreme court, and in such inferior courts as the congress may from time to time ordain and establish. The judges, both of the supreme and inferior courts, shall hold their offices during good behavior, and shall, at stated times, receive for their services, a compensation, which shall not be diminished during their continuance in office. Sec. 2. The judicial power shall extend to all cases, in law and equity, arising under this Constitution, the laws of the United States, and treaties made, or which shall be made, under their authority ; — to all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers, and consuls; — to all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; — to controversies to which the United States shall be a party ; — to controversies between two or more states ; — be- tween a state and citizens of another state ; — between citizens 122 CONSTITUTION OF THE of different states ; — between citizens of the same state claim- ing lands under grants of different states, and between a state, or the citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens or subjects. In all cases affecting ambassadors, other public ministers and consuls, and those in which a state shall be party, the supreme court shall have original jurisdiction. In all the other cases before mentioned, the supreme court shall have appellate juris- diction, both as to law and fact, with such exceptions and under such regulations as the congress shall make. The trial of all crimes, except in cases of impeachment, shall be by jury ; and such trial shall be held in the state where the said crimes shall have been committed ; but when not committed within any state, the trial shall be at such place or places as the congress may by law have directed. Sec. 3. Treason against the United States shall consist only in levying war against them, or in adhering to their enemies, giving them aid and comfort. No person shall be convicted of treason unless on the testi- mony of two witnesses to the same overt act, or on confession in open court. The congress shall have power to declare the punishment of treason, but no attainder of treason shall work corruption of blood, or forfeiture except during the life of the person attainted. ARTICLE IV. Section 1. Full faith and credit shall be given in each state to the public acts, records, and judicial proceedings of every other state. And the congress may by general laws prescribe the manner in which such acts, records and proceedings shall be proved, and the effect thereof. Sec 2. The citizens of each state shall be entitled to all priv- ileges and immunities of citizens of the several states. A person charged in any state with treason, felony, or other crime, who shall flee from justice, and be found in another state, shall, on demand of the executive authority of the state from which he fled, be delivered up, to be removed to the state having jurisdiction of the crime. UNITED STATES. 123 No person held to service or labor in one state, under the laws thereof, escaping into another, shall, in consequence of any law or regulation therein, be discharged from such service or labor, but shall be delivered up on claim of the party to whom such service or labor may be due. Sec. 3. New states may be admitted by the congress into this union ; but no new state shall be formed or erected within the jurisdiction of any other state ; nor any state be formed by the junction of two or more states, or parts of states, without the consent of the legislatures of the states concerned, as well as of the congress. The congress shall have power to dispose of and make all needful rules and regulations respecting the territory or other property belonging to the United States ; and nothing in this constitution shall be so construed as to prejudice any claims of the United States, or of any particular state. Sec. 4. The United States shall guarantee to every state in this union a republican form of government, and shall protect each of them against invasion ; and, on application of the leg- islature, or of the executive (when the legislature can not be convened,) against domestic violence. article v. The congress, whenever two-thirds of both houses shall deem it necessary, shall propose amendments to this constitution, or, on the application of the legislatures of two-thirds of the sev- eral states, shall call a convention for proposing amendments, which, in either case, shall be valid to all intents and purposes, as part of this constitution, when ratified by the legislatures of three-fourths of the several states, or by conventions in three- fourths thereof, as the one or the other mode of ratification may be proposed by the congress ; Provided, that no amendment which may be made prior to the year one thousand eight hun- dred and eight, shall in any manner affect the first and fourth clauses in the ninth section of the first article ; and that no state, without its consent, shall be deprived of its equal suffrage in the senate. 124 CONSTITUTION. ARTICLE VI. All debts contracted and engagements entered into before the adoption of this constitution, shall be as valid against the United States, under this constitution, as under the confederation. This constitution and the laws of the United States, which shall be made in pursuance thereof ; and all treaties made, or which shall be made, under the authority of the United States, shall be the supreme law of the land ; and the judges in every state shall be bound thereby, any thing in the constitution or laws of any state to the contrary notwithstanding. The senators and representatives before mentioned, and the members of the several state legislatures, and all executive and judicial officers, both of the United States and of the several states, shall be bound by oath or affirmation to support this constitution ; but no religious test shall ever be required as a qualification to any office or public trust under the United States. article VII. The ratification of the conventions of nine states shall be sufficient for the establishment of this constitution between the states so ratifying the same. Done in convention, by the unanimous consent of the states present, the seventeenth day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and eighty-seven, and of the independence of the United States of America the twelfth. In witness whereof, we have hereunto subscribed our names. GEORGE WASHINGTON, President and Deputy from Virginia. New Hampshire. JOHN LANGDON, NICHOLAS GILMAN. Massachusetts. NATHANIEL GORHAM, RUFUS KING. Connecticut. WILLIAM SAMUEL JOHNSON, ROGER SHERMAN. New York. ALEXANDER HAMILTON. New Jersey. WILLIAM LIVINGSTON, DAVID BREARLEY, WILLIAM PATTERSON, JONATHAN DAYTON. BENJAMIN FKANKLIN, ROBERT MOBKIS, THOMAS F1TZSIMONS, JAMES WILSON, GEOBGE BEAD, JOHN DICKINSON, JACOB BBOOM. JAMES M'HENRT, DANIEL CARBOLL. JOHN BLAIR, WILLIAM BLOUNT, HUGH WILLIAMSON. JOHN RUTLEDGE, CHARLES PINCKNET, WILLIAM FEW, Attest : AMENDMENTS. Pennsylvania. THOMAS MIFFLIN, GEORGE CLYMEB, JARED INGERSOLL, GOUVERNEUR MORRIS. Delaware. GUNNING BEDFORD, Jb.. RICHARD BASSE IT, Maryland. DANIEL OF ST. THOMAS JENIFER, Virginia. JAMES MADISON, Jr. North Carolina. RICHARD DOBBS SPAIGHT, 125 South Carolina. CHABLES COTESWORTH PINCKNET, PIERCE BUTLER. Cfeorgia. ABRAHAM BALDWIN. WILLIAM JACKSON, Secretary. AMENDMENTS To the Constitution of the United States, ratified according to the Provisions of the Fifth Article of the foregoing Consti- tution. ARTICLE I. Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press ; or the right of the peo- ple peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for redress of grievances. ARTICLE II. A well-regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed. 126 CONSTITUTIONAL ARTICLE III. No soldier shall, in time of peace be quartered in any house, without the consent of the owner, nor in time of war, but in a manner to be prescribed by law. ARTICLE IV. The right of the people to be secure in their persons, houses, papers, and effects, against unreasonable searches and seizures, shall not be violated, and no warrants shall issue, but upon probable cause, supported by oath or affirmation, and particu- larly describing the place to be searched, and the persons or things to be seized. article v. No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or otherwise infamous crime, unless on a presentment or indictment of a grand jury, except in cases arising in the land or naval forces, or in the militia, when in actual service in time of war and public danger ; nor shall any person be subject for the same offense to be twice put in jeopardy of life or limb ; nor shall be compelled in any criminal case to be a witness against himself, nor to be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law ; nor shall private property be taken for public use, without just compensation. article VI. In all criminal prosecutions, the accused shall enjoy the right to a speedy and public trial, by an impartial jury of the state and district wherein the crime shall have been committed, which district shall have been previously ascertained by law, and to be informed of the nature and cause of the accusation ; to be con- fronted with the witnesses against him ; to have compulsory process for obtaining witnesses in his favor, and to have the assistance of counsel for his defense. ARTICLE VII. In suits at common law, where the value in controversy shall exceed twenty dollars, the right of trial by jury shall be AMENDMENTS. 127 preserved, and no fact tried by a jury shall be otherwise re-exam- ined in any court of the United States, than according to the rules of common law. ARTICLE VIII. Excessive bail shall not be required, nor excessive fines im- posed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted. ARTICLE IX. The enumeration in the constitution, of certain rights, shall not be construed to deny or disparage others retained by the people. ARTICLE X. The powers not delegated to the United States by the consti- tution, nor prohibited by it to the states, are reserved to the states respectively, or to the people. ARTICLE XI. The judicial power of the United States shall not be construed to extend to any suit in law or equity, commenced or prosecuted against one of the United States by citizens of another state, or by citizens or subjects of any foreign state. ARTICLE XII. The electors shall meet in their respective states, and vote by ballot for president and vice-president, one of whom, at least, shall not be an inhabitant of the same state with themselves ; they shall name in their ballots the person voted for as presi- dent, and in distinct ballots the person voted for as vice-presi- dent, and they shall make distinct lists of all persons voted for as president, and of all persons voted for as vice-president, and of the number of votes for each, which lists they shall sign and certify, and transmit sealed to the seat of the government of the United States, directed to the president of the senate ; the president of the senate shall, in the presence of the senate and house of representatives, open all the certificates, and the votes shall then be counted ; — the person having the greatest number of votes for president, shall be the president, if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors appointed ; and if 128 CONSTITUTIONAL no person have such majority, then from the persons having the highest numbers not exceeding three on the list of those voted for as president, the house of representatives shall choose imme- diately, by ballot, the president. But in choosing the president, the votes shall be taken by states, the representation from each state having one vote ; a quorum for this purpose shall consist of a member or members from two-thirds of the states, and a majority of all the states shall be necessary to a choice. And if the house of representatives shall not choose a president whenever the right of choice shall devolve upon them, before the fourth day of March next following, then the vice-president shall act as president, as in the case of the death or other con- stitutional disability of the president. The person having the greatest number of votes as vice-president, shall be the vice- president, if such number be a majority of the whole number of electors appointed, and if no person have a majority, then from the two highest numbers on the list, the senate shall choose the vice-president ; a quorum for the purpose shall consist of two- thirds of the whole number of senators, and a majority of the whole number shall be necessary to a choice. But no person constitutionally ineligible to the office of president shall be eligi- ble to that of vice-president of the United States. ARTICLE XIII. Section 1. Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except as a punishment for crime whereof the party shall have been duly convicted, shall exist within the United States, or any place subject to their jurisdiction. Sec. 2. Congress shall have power to enforce the article by appropriate legislation. ARTICLE XIV. Section 1. All persons born or naturalized in the United States and subject to the jurisdiction thereof, are citizens of the United States and of the state wherein they reside. No state shall make or enforce any law which shall abridge the privileges or immunities of citizens of the United States ; nor shall any AMENDMENTS. 129 state deprive any person of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law, nor deny to any person within its jurisdic- tion the equal protection of the laws. Sec. 2. Representatives shall be apportioned among the several states according to their respective numbers, counting the whole number of persons in each state, excluding Indians not taxed. But when the right to vote at any election for the choice of electors for president and vice president of the United States, representatives in congress, the executive and judicial officers of a state, or the members of the legislature thereof, is denied to any of the male inhabitants of such state, being twenty- one years of age and citizens of the United States, or in any way abridged, except for participation in rebellion or other crime, the basis of representation therein shall be reduced in pro- portion which the number of such male citizens shall bear to the whole number of male citizens twenty-one years of age in such state. Sec. 3. No person shall be a senator or representative in congress, or elector of president and vice president, or hold any office, civil or military, under the United States or under any state, who, having previously taken an oath, as a member of congress, or as an officer of the United States, or as a member of any state legislature, or as an executive or judicial officer of any state, to support the constitution of the United States, shall have engaged in insurrection or rebellion against the same, or given aid and comfort to the enemies thereof. But congress may, by a vote of two-thirds of each house, remove such dis- ability. Sec. 4. The validity of the public debt of the United States authorized by law, including debts incurred for payment of pen- sions and bounties for services in suppressing insurrection and rebellion, shall not be questioned. But neither the United States nor any state shall assume or pay any debt or obligation incurred in aid of insurrection or rebellion against the United States, or any claim for the loss or emancipation of any slave ; but all such debts, obligations or claims shall be held illegal and void. 9 130 AMENDMENTS. Sec. 5. The congress shall have power to enforce, by appro- priate legislation, the provisions of this article. article xv. Section. 1. The right of the citizens of the United States to vote shall not be denied or abridged by the United States or by any state on account of race, color, or previous condition of servitude. Sec. 2. The Congress shall have power to enforce this arti- cle by appropriate legislation. Twenty-one states have now (November 1st, 1869,) given their sanction to the fifteenth amendment. Seven more are required to make it a part of the constitution of the United States. CHAPTER XIII. THE EMANCIPATION PROCLAMATIONS of September, 1862, and January, 1863. " On the 22nd of September, 1862, Mr. Lincoln issued one of the two most important proclamations ever penned by a pres- ident of the United States : that which announced to the negroes held as slaves in the rebellious states that on and after the first day of the new year, they should be forever released from bond- age. This great document, which was read with joy by the loyal residents of the north, and which was a source of such infinite happiness to the unfortunate class of beings who were to be more particularly affected by its provisions, was as follows : " I, Abraham Lincoln, president of the United States of America, and commander-in-chief of the army and navy thereof, do hereby proclaim and declare, that hereafter, as heretofore, the war will be prosecuted for the object of practically restoring the constitutional relation between the United States and the people thereof in those states in which that relation is, or may be, suspended or disturbed ; that it is my purpose upon the next meeting of congress to again recommend the adoption of a prac- tical measure tending pecuniary aid to the free acceptance or rejection of all the slave states, so-called, the people whereof may not then be in rebellion against the United States, and which states may then have voluntarily adopted, or thereafter may voluntarily adopt, the immediate or gradual abolishment of slavery within their respective limits, and that the effort to col- onize persons of African descent, with their consent, upon the continent or elsewhere, with the previously obtained consent of the government existing there, will be continued ; that on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as slaves within any state, or any designated part of a state, the people whereof 132 EMANCIPATION shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be then, thenceforward and forever, free, and the executive gov- ernment of the United States, including the military and naval authority thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of such persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such persons, or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their actual freedom ; that the executive will, on the first day of January aforesaid, by proclamation, designate the states and parts of states, if any, in which the people thereof respectively shall then be in rebellion against the United States ; and the fact that any state, or the people thereof, shall on that day be in good faith represented in the congress of the United States by members chosen thereto, at elections wherein a majority of the qualified voters of such state shall have participated, shall, in the absence of strong countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evi- dence that such state and the people thereof have not been in rebellion against the United States. " That attention is hereby called to an act of congress enti- tled ' An act to make an additional article of war,' approved March 13, 1862, and which act is in the words and figures fol- lowing : " ' Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America, in Congress assembled, That hereafter the following shall be promulgated as an additional article of war for the government of the army of the United States, and shall be observed and obeyed as such. " ' Article — . All officers or persons of the military or naval service of the United States, are prohibited from employing any of the forces under their respective commands for the purpose of returning fugitives from service or labor, Avho may have escaped from any persons to whom such service or labor is claimed to be due, and any officer who shall be found guilty by a court martial of violating this article, shall be dismissed from the service. " ' Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That this act shall take effect from and after its passage.' PROCLAMATIONS. 133 " Also to the ninth and tenth sections of an act entitled, ' An act to suppress insurrection, to punish treason and rebellion, to seize and confiscate property of rebels, and for other purposes,' approved July 17, 1862, and which sections are in the words and figures following : " ' Sec. 9. And be it further enacted, That all slaves of per- sons who shall hereafter be engaged in rebellion against the gov- ernment of the United States, or who shall in any way give aid or comfort thereto, escaping from such persons and taking refuge within the lines of the army ; and all slaves captured from such persons or deserted by them, and coming under the control of the government of the United States, and all slaves of such per- sons found on (or being within) any place occupied by rebel forces and afterwards occupied by the forces of the United States, shall be deemed captives of war, and shall be forever free of their servitude and not again held as slaves. "' Sec. 10. And be it further enacted, That no slave escap- ing into any state, territory, or the district of Columbia, from any of the states, shall be delivered up, or in any way impeded or hindered of his liberty, except for crime, or some offense against the laws, unless the person claiming said fugitive shall first make oath that the person to whom the labor or service of such fugitive is alleged to be due, is his lawful owner, and has not been in arms against the United States in the present rebel- lion, nor in any way given aid and comfort thereto ; and no person engaged in the military or naval service of the United States shall, under any pretence whatever, assume to decide on the validity of the claim of any person to the service or labor of any other person, or surrender up any such person to the claim- ant, on pain of being dismissed from the service.' " And I do hereby enjoin upon, and order all persons engaged in the military and naval service of the United States to observe, obey and enforce within their respective spheres of service the act and sections above recited. "And the executive will in due time recommend that all citi- zens of the United States who shall have remained loyal thereto 134 EMANCIPATION throughout the rebellion, shall (upon the restoration of the con- stitutional relation between the United States and their respec- tive States and people, if the relation shall have been suspended or disturbed) be compensated for all losses by acts of the United States, including the loss of slaves. " In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed. " Done at the city of Washington, this twenty-second day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, and of the independence of the United States the eighty-seventh. " By the President: " ABRAHAM LINCOLN. "Wm. H. Seward, Secretary of State." " Such a bold movement was necessarily distasteful to the traitors, and while the southern journals pronounced it to be a bid for the slaves to rise in insurrection, a bid which none but a barbarian would devise, it was denounced in the Richmond congress, and a resolution was there offered, exhorting the peo- ple to slay every union soldier and raider found within their borders, and offering a reward to every negro, who would, after the first of January, 1863, kill a unionist. " The other important proclamation was issued on the first of January, 1863, and was worded as follows : " Whereas, on the twenty-second day of September, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, a proclamation was issued by the president of the United States, containing among other things the following, to wit : " That on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as slaves within any state, or designated part of a state, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be then, thenceforth and forever free, and the executive government of the United States, including the military and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain the free- dom of such persons, and will do no act or acts to repress such PROCLAMATIONS. 135 persons, or any of them, in any efforts they may make for their actual freedom. " That the executive will, on the first day of January afore- said, by proclamation, designate the states and parts of states, if any, in which the people therein respectively shall then be in rebellion against the United States, and the fact that any state, or the people thereof, shall on that day be in good faith repre- sented in the congress of the United States by members chosen thereto, at elections wherein a majority of the qualified voters of such states shall have participated, shall, in the absence of strong countervailing testimony, be deemed conclusive evidence that such state and the people thereof are not then in rebellion against the United States. " Now, therefore, I, Abraham Lincoln, president of the United States, by virtue of the power in me vested as commander-in- chief of the army and navy of the United States in time of actual armed rebellion against the authority and government of the United States, and as a fit and necessary war measure for suppressing said rebellion, do, on this first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty- three, and in accordance with my purpose so to do, publicly proclaimed for the full period of one hundred days from the day of the first above-mentioned order, and designate, as the states and parts of states wherein the people thereof respect- ively are this day in rebellion against the United States, the following to-wit : Arkansas, Texas, Louisiana, except the par- ishes of St. Bernard, Plaquemines, Jefferson, St. John, St. Charles, St. James, Ascension, Assumption, Terre Bonne, La fourche, St. Mary, St. Martin and Orleans, including the city of New Orleans. Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Virginia, except the forty-eight counties designated as West Virginia, and also the counties of Berkeley, Accomac, Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Prin- cess Ann, and Norfolk, including the cities of Norfolk and Portsmouth, and which excepted parts are, for the present, left precisely as if this proclamation were not issued. 136 PROCLAMATIONS. " And by virtue of the power and for the purpose aforesaid, I do order and declare that all persons held as slaves within said designated states, and parts of states are, and henceforward shall be free; and that the executive government of the United States, including the military and naval authorities thereof, will recognize and maintain the freedom of said persons. " And I hereby enjoin upon the people so declared to be free, to abstain from all violence, unless in necessary self-defense, and I recommend to them, that in all cases, when allowed, they labor faithfully for reasonable wages. " And I further declare and make known that such persons of suitable condition will be received into the armed service of the United States to garrison forts, positions, stations, and other places, and to man vessels of all sorts in said service. " And upon this, sincerely believed to be an act of justice, warranted by the constitution, upon military necessity, I invoke the considerate judgment of mankind and the gracious favor of Almighty God. " In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and caused the seal of the United States to be affixed. " Done at the city of Washington, this first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight [l. s.] hundred and sixty-three, and of the Independence of the United States of America the eighty-seventh. " By the President : " ABRAHAM LINCOLN. " William H. Seward, Secretary of State." ^>jL£un xx. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF TIIE UNITED STATES. CHAPTER I. NEW ENGLAND STATES. MAINE. Maine, the most eastern of the United States, and by far the largest of the New England States, lies between latitude 42° 57' and 47° 32' N., and longitude 66° 52' and 71° 6' W. It is bounded on the north by Canada East ; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean ; on the east by New Brunswick and Passama- quoddy Bay ; and on the west by New Hampshire and Canada East. Its greatest length from north to south is 303 miles ; from east to west, 212 miles ; area, 31,766 square miles, or 20,330,240 acres. In 1860, only about one-eighth of this vast territory, or about 2,704,133 acres, was under cultivation. Maine, as a general thing, is hilly and mountainous, and has its culminating point at Mount Katahdin, at an altitude of 5,385 feet. A broken range of mountains, supposed to be a continuation of the White Mountains of New Hampshire, ex- tends across the state in a north-easterly direction, and terminates with Mars Hill, in Aroostook county, about one mile from the eastern boundary of the state. This mountain chain forms the water-shed between the basin of the St. Johns river and the Atlantic ocean. ^Extensive quarries of granite, of the finest quality, are found upon the coast ; and in the interior are meta- morphic rocks and minerals. The coast line is very irregular, being indented with numerous bays, which receive some of the largest rivers of New England. Passamaquoddy, the largest bay, is at the south-eastern extremity of the state. It is fifteen miles long, and ten miles wide, and is entered by three passages. The other principal indentations are Englishman's, Frenchman's, Penobscot and Casco bays. The principal rivers are Penobscot, Kennebec, Androscoggin and Saco. The Penobscot is the larg- est, and is formed by the junction of the Seboois river with the 140 NEW ENGLAND STATES. West Branch. The extreme length of the river is above 300 miles, and it has a course, after its junction with the Seboois, of 135 miles. The western branch rises in the extreme western part of the state, at the foot of the Green mountains, and in its course drains the Chesuncook and Bamedumpok lakes. At Bangor, 58 miles from the mouth of the river, vessels of the largest size are received. The source of the Kennebec river is Moosehead lake, which is about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. It has a length of 160 miles, and receives the waters of the Dead and Sebasticook rivers. The Androscoggin river orig- inates in Coos county, New Hampshire, in Umbagog lake, and, after a very irregular course of about 150 miles, enters the Ken- nebec, about 20 miles above the mouth of the latter river. The Saco river rises among the White mountains, in the southern part of Coos county, New Hampshire, and, after flowing in a south-easterly direction, through Maine, enters the Atlantic in York county. The St. John river separates Maine from Cana- da East, and the St. Croix partially separates the same state from New Brunswick. No other state in the union contains so great a number of beautiful lakes, as Maine. Of these, Moosehead, in a wild and picturesque region, lying between the counties of Somerset and Piscataquis, is the largest. It is 35 miles long and 10 miles broad. There is a steamboat upon the lake, used to convey lumber to the Kennebec river. The water is deep, and abounds with fish, among which trout are conspicuous. Chesumcook lake, 26 miles long and four miles broad, is merely an expansion of the Penobscot river. Schoodic lakes are two beautiful sheets of water in Washington county, drained by an affluent of the St. Croix river. On the south-eastern coast of the state are a number of islands, of which the principal are Fox islands, and Grand Me- nan and Mount Desert Islands. The latter, in Frenchman's bay, is 15 miles long and 11 miles broad. The inhabitants, numbering more than 200, are chiefly engaged in shipping and fisheries. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 141 Maine has extensive forests of pine, spruce, hemlock, and maple, and it is estimated that one-third of the ships of America are built in this state. The white and red oak abound in the vicinity of the coast ; and in the districts at the headwaters of the Kennebec and Penobscot, are' found the pine and spruce. Butternut and white walnut are scarce, but maple, birch and ash grow in abundance. The mineral productions of Maine are not very extensive. Considerable iron is found upon the Aroos- took river, and small quantities of copper and lead are found in the vicinity of Dexter and Lubec. Large quantities of slate are found between the Kennebec and St. Johns rivers. The climate of Maine is extremely regular, the temperature ranging from 30° below zero to 100° above. The soil in the mountainous regions, and in districts bordering upon the south- eastern coast, is poor, and wholly unadapted to cultivation. The most fertile portions of the country comprise the basin of the St. John's river, and the territory lying between the Kenne- bec and Penobscot rivers. The staple products are corn, rye, barley, buckwheat, beans, potatoes, oats and hay. Wheat is produced, though in limited quantities. Hops and flax are also cultivated, and large quantities of maple sugar are manufactured. No other state in the union has as great a number of good harbors, or affords such natural advantages for commerce, as Maine. The length of the coast, in a direct line, is 278 miles. Considering the irregularity of the coast, and following the same in all its windings, the former length is increased three times. The most of the rivers flowing into the Atlantic are safe for the largest vessels, from ten to fifty miles from the ocean. Lumber, which is produced by means of these rivers, is the chief export. The lumber produced in 1860 was valued at $0,598,565. In 1863 the exports amounted to $7,016,342 ; imports $3,911,468. The increase of exports of the latter year over 1862 was over $1,500,000. AUGUSTA Is the capital, and Portland and Bangor the largest cities of the state. Augusta is the seat of justice of Kennebec county, 142 NEW ENGLAND STATES. and is sixty miles north-east of Portland, on both sides of the Kennebec, about forty-five miles from the mouth of that river. The business portion of the city lies under an elevation, which rises a short distance from the river. On the summit of this elevation are a number of hotels, and a large portion of the city residences. The state house, in the southern portion of the city, is an imposing building, of light granite construction, in front of which is a spacious park, containing ornamental trees and flowers, and intersected with gravel walks. Augusta con- tains twelve churches, ten hotels, six banks, several public schools, and a female academy. A dam, five hundred and nine- ty feet long, has been constructed across the river, in the north- ern limits of the city, which greatly improves the navigation above, and affords immense hydraulic power to the manufacto- ries and foundries below. A passenger and railroad bridge span the river, about one-fourth of a mile apart, the former being five hundred and the latter nine hundred feet long. The Portland and Kennebec railroad passes through Augusta, and terminates at Waterville. Population in 1860, 7,609. PORTLAND, The capital of Cumberland county, is on the eastern side of Casco bay, one hundred and five miles north-east of Boston, two hundred and ninety-two miles south-east of Montreal, and three hundred and seventeen miles in the same direction from Quebec. It is the largest city of Maine, and is the southern terminus of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence railroad. Its site is a hilly peninsula, about three miles long, and averaging three- fourths of a mile in breadth. The harbor, nearly surrounded by land, is one of the finest in the world, being of sufficient depth to receive the largest vessels, and guarded at its principal entrance by several strong fortresses. Portland is finely laid off, and contains a large number of handsome buildings, generally constructed of brick. Congress street, extending from Mun- joy's to Bramhill's, the former on the eastern, and the latter on the western side of the peninsula, is the principal thoroughfare of the city. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 143 The most prominent public building of the city is the city hall, erected in 1859. The building, of dark sandstone construction, is surmounted by a lofty dome. The other principal buildings are the custom house, mechanics' hall, a natural history building, mercantile association and Maine charitable mechanics' associa- tion buildings, and a large number of churches. Portland is rich in commerce and manufactures. Her exports for the year 1864 amounted to $3,824,591 ; imports $3,018,063. The city is extensively engaged in ship building, and contains manufac- tories of locomotives, railway carriages, &c. Portland has an abundant supply of pure water, and is lighted with gas. Popu- lation in 1860, 26,342. j BANGOR, The capital of Penobscot county, is sixty-six miles north-east of Augusta, and one hundred and twenty-six miles in the same direction from Portland. It is on the right bank of the Penob- scot, and on both sides of the Kenduskeig, which enters the former river about sixty miles from the ocean. A bridge, one thousand three hundred and twenty feet long, extends to Brewer, on the opposite bank of the river, and a short distance below is the Portland harbor, five hundred yards long, and deep enough, at high water, to receive the largest ships. The city has a pleasant location, commanding a fine view of the river and sur- rounding country. Bangor has a large number of hotels, col- leges, and churches. A first class hotel, called the Bangor house, is probably inferior to none in the state. The city con- tains four large foundries, four steam furniture manufactories, a large number of steam sawing and planing mills, fifteen banks, twelve churches, and a theological seminary. Bangor has rail- way communications with Old Town, and cities on the Penobscot and Kennebec railroad. Population in 1860, 16,407. Main has six hundred miles of railroad, sixty-nine banks, and four thousand five hundred public schools. The latter are sup- ported by money arising from the sale of public lands, and a tax of one-half of one per cent, on the capital of banks. The state also contains three colleges, twelve hundred churches, and forty- 144 NEW ENGLAND STATES. nine periodical publications. The government consists of a gov- ernor, senate, and house of representatives. Excepting crimin- als and paupers, persons have the right of suffrage after residing in the country three months. Maine sends six members to con- gress, and is entitled to eight electoral votes for president. NEW HAMPSHIRE. New Hampshire, one of the original thirteen United States, and next to Maine, the largest of the New England states, lies between latitude 42° 41' and 45° 11' N., and longitude 70° 40' and 72° 28' W. It is bounded on the north by Canada East, on the south by Massachusetts, on the east by Maine and the Atlantic ocean, and on the west by Vermont and Canada East. Its greatest length from north to south is one hundred and seven- ty-six miles ; width, forty-five miles ; area, nine thousand two hundred and eighty square miles, or five million nine hundred and thirty-nine thousand two hundred acres. New Hampshire is often called the " Granite State," on account of the abun- dance of that mineral. From the magnificent scenery of the White mountains, it is also styled the "Switzerland of America." With the exception of a small district in the south-eastern portion of the state, the country is hilly and mountainous. The White mountains extend nearly across the state from north to south. They commence near the head waters of the Aroostook river, in Maine, and reach their culminating in Coos county, New Hampshire. The base of the mountains is a broad plat- teau, from sixteen to eighteen hundred feet high. The White mountains are more admired by travelers, and attract a larger number of tourists than any other natural objects in the United States, excepting Niagara. The lofty mountains, wild valleys, beautiful lakes, grand cascades and torrents, alike contribute beauty and grandeur to this delightful region. Twenty bold peaks, with deep, narrow gorges, rise abruptly to the hight of five thousand feet. Mount Washington, the highest summit, and culminating point of New England, is eighty -five miles north of Concord, in Coos county, and has an altitude of six thousand NEW ENGLAND STATES. 145 two hundred and eighty-five feet. The sides, which are remark- ably steep, are covered for about three-fourths of the distance from the base to the summit, with a thick growth of trees. The upper part has a conical form, and is frequently enveloped in mist and fog. Mount Adams, next in hight to Mount Washing- ton, is in the same county, and has an altitude of five thousand seven hundred and fifty-nine feet. Mount Jefferson, directly north of Mount Washington, between the latter peak and Mount Adams, has an altitude of five thousand six hundred and fifty- seven feet. Mount Lafayette is a peak of the Franconia range, in Grafton county, seventy-five miles north-west of Concord. Hight, five thousand five hundred feet. Immediately across the valley is Profile or Cannon mountain, which is covered with dense forests, till you arrive in the vicinity of the summit. This peak, though exceeded in hight by the surrounding mountains, is none the less interesting. At the foot of this mountain, near the Franconia notch, is the Profile house, a favorite resort of tourists. Other elevations of importance are Mount Madison, five thou- sand four hundred and fifteen feet high, Mount Monroe, five thousand three hundred and forty-nine feet high, and Mount Franklin four thousand eight hundred and fifty feet high. (See views of White mountains.) The principal elevations, indepen- dent of the main chain, are the Kearsarge mountains, in Merri- mac county, two thousand four hundred and sixty-eight feet high, and the Blue hills, in the south-eastern portion of the state, one thousand one hundred and fifty-one feet high. The upper portions of the former consist of bare granite rock. The most important rivers of New Hampshire are the Connec- ticut and Merrimac. The Connecticut has its source in a small sheet of water, a few miles north of Connecticut lake. The Merrimac river, formed by the confluence of the Pemigewasset and Winnipiseogee rivers, flows first in a southerly, and, after entering Massachusetts, in a north-easterly direction, and reaches the Atlantic near Newburyport. Winnipiseogee, the principal lake in the state, is drained by the river of the same name. This large and beautiful sheet of water, lying between Carroll and 10 146 NEW ENGLAND STATES. Belknap counties, is twenty-five miles long and ten miles wide. Its multitude of islands, and irregular form, in connection with the romantic beauty of the surrounding scenery, render it one of the most pleasing places in the state. Its waters are very deep and pure, and it is thought by some to rival Loch Lomond in beauty. The forest trees of New Hampshire are various. On the mountain slopes are vast forests of pine, which sometimes grow over two hundred feet high. The other principal trees are the oak, maple, spruce, beech and hemlock. The climate of New Hampshire resembles that of Maine, the summers being short, and the winters long and severe. Though there are some fertile districts, the state, as a general thing, is not adapted to agricultural pursuits. In 1860 there were two hundred and thirty-eight thousand nine hundred and sixty-six bushels of wheat, and one million four hundred and fourteen thousand six hundred and twenty-eight bushels of corn produced. Concord is the capital. Manchester and Portsmouth are the principal towns. CONCORD, The capital of New Hampshire, and seat of justice of Merri- mac county, is on the western bank of the Merrimac river, fifty- nine miles north-west of Boston. The ground on which the city is built is slightly elevated, and comprises a district two miles long, and three-fourths of a mile broad. Main street, the prin- cipal thoroughfare, extends through the entire length of the city from north to south, and contains the business houses, hotels, churches, etc. State street contains a Methodist general biblical institute, and a huge state prison of granite construction. The state house is a hewn granite edifice, one hundred and twenty- six feet long, forty-nine feet wide, and two stories high, standing in the center of a common, finely ornamented with maple and elm trees. The falls in the Merrimac at Concord afford val- uable water power to the foundries, mills, etc. The city con- tains nine churches, four newspaper offices, eight banks, and a state lunatic asylum. Population in 1860, 10,896. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 147 MANCHESTER, A town of Hillsborough county, and chief city of New Hamp- shire, is on the eastern bank of the Merrimac river, eighteen miles south-east of Concord, and fifty-nine miles north-west of Boston. The city is finely laid off on an elevated plain ninety- five feet above the river. The principal street is a mile and a half long, and one hundred feet broad, and divides the city into two nearly equal parts. The western portion of the city is chiefly built of wood, and contains a number of handsome villas and residences. The eastern portion, or the part bordering on the river, is built almost wholly of brick, and contains the busi- ness establishments, hotels, etc. The most important buildings are the town house, the different churches and public schools,, and the athenaeum. The latter, established in 1844, has a free reading room, and a library of thirty-five hundred volumes.. " The system of public instruction comprises a high school, two grammar schools, an intermediate, six middle, and twelve pri- mary schools, besides others not classed." The city is furnished with gas by a company established in 1851, having a capital, at the present time, amounting to about one hundred thousand dollars. Near Manchester the Merrimac has a descent of fifty feet, called Amoskeag Falls, which, in connection with a dam a short distance below, affords sufficient hydraulic power to run several hundred thousand spindles. The most important corporations of Manchester are the Amoskeag manufacturing company, and the Stark mills, the former employing twenty-five hundred persons, both male and female, and producing daily sixty-five thousand yards of tickings, drillings, sheetings, and pantaloon stuffs, and the latter twelve hundred persons, and manufacturing daily thirty thousand yards of sheetings, seventeen thousand yards of drilling, and upwards of five thousand seamless bags. The city contains twelve churches, ten newspaper publications, five insurance companies, and four banks with a capital exceed- ing five hundred thousand dollars. Population, 20,107. 148 NEW ENGLAND STATES. PORTSMOUTH, A city and semi-capital of Rockingham county, is on the south- ern bank of the Piscataqua river, three miles from its mouth, and fifty-five miles north-east of Boston. The site of the city is a slightly elevated peninsula, formed by the Piscataqua river. It is connected by bridges with Grand island and Kittery, direct- ly opposite in Maine. Prominent among the public buildings are the state arsenal and athenaeum, the finest structures in the city. The latter has a library of ten thousand choice volumes. On an island facing the city is a United States navy yard, con- taining "three immense ship houses, and a floating balance dock, constructed at a cost of about eight hundred thousand dollars." Portsmouth is the only port of entry in the state. The harbor, having an average depth of about fifty-five feet, lies between the city and the sea, and is large enough to accommodate upwards of two thousand vessels. The city contains nine churches, four newspaper publications, five banks, a large number of manufac- tories, and an excellent system of public schools. Population in 1860, 9,335. New Hampshire has forty-four cotton, sixty-one woollen, and twenty-nine iron factories ; a large number of paper mills, fifty- one banks, seven hundred churches, thirty-eight newspaper pub- lications, and numerous and well conducted free schools. Pop- ulation of the state in 1860, 326,073, of which 325,579 were white, and 494 colored. In New Hampshire the governor, senate, and house of repre- sentatives are elected annually. The senate is composed of twelve and the house of representatives of two hundred and eighty-six members. The governor receives a salary of one thousand dollars per annum. VERMONT. Vermont, one of the United States, and the first state admit- ted after the adoption of the federal constitution, lies between latitude 42 5 44' and 45° N., and longitude 71°33' and 73° 25' NEW ENGLAND STATES. 149 W. It is one hundred and fifty miles long, and from forty to eighty-five miles wide, including an area of ten thousand two hundred and twelve square miles, or six millions five hundred and thirty-five thousand six hundred and eighty acres. It is bounded on the north by Canada East, on the south by Massa- chusetts, on the east by the Connecticut river, which separates Vermont from New Hampshire, and on the west by Lake Cham- plain and New York. The surface of the country is hilly and mountainous. The Green mountains traverse the entire length of the state from north to south. In the southern part of the state they form a single chain, but at Northfield, twelve miles south of Montpelier, a range branches off in a north-easterly direction, and forms the boundary line between Canada East and the states of Maine and New Hampshire. The highest peak is Mount Mansfield, twenty-two miles north of Montpelier, having an altitude of four thousand three hundred and fifty-nine feet. The other peaks range from a hight of two thousand to five thousand feet, and are all covered with vegetation, and cultivated to their summits. The principal rivers of Vermont are the Missisque, Lamoille, Winooski, Otter, and Passumpsic. The Missisque and Lamoille rise among the mountains in Orleans county, and, after a course of seventy-five and seventy miles, enter Lake Champlain, the former in Missisque, and the latter in Chittenden county. The Winooski river rises in Washington county, and flows into Lake Champlain, five miles west of Burlington. At Winooski village, near Burlington, the river has a fall of twenty feet. Lake Cham- plain separates Vermont from New York, for over one hundred miles. Its entire length is one hundred and thirty-five miles, and it has a width varying from one to twelve miles. Its out- line is very irregular, and its surface is diversified by numerous beautiful islands. Its depth varies from fifty to three hundred feet. Its waters are discharged into the St. Lawrence through the Richelieu river. Vessels of the largest size navigate the lake with perfect safety. It is connected with the Hudson river by the Champlain canal, thus establishing uninterrupted water 150 NEW ENGLAND STATES. communication with the principal cities of New York. The lake abounds with trout, salmon, pike, and other fish. The Vermont side of the lake is extremely fertile, but on the opposite shore the country is wild, rocky, and desolate. Vermont shares Lake Memphremagog with Canada East. This lake is about thirty miles long, and has a width varying from one to five miles. About eight miles of its length is in Orleans county, Vermont ; the remainder is in Canada. Its waters are discharged through Magog outlet, into the St. Fran- cis river, and from thence into St. Peter's lake, an expansion of the St. Lawrence river. Vermont, though subject to severe weather, is one of the healthiest states in the union. The temperature ranges from seventeen degrees below to ninety- two degrees above zero. The country suifers from frost as early as the first of September, though the weather does not become severe till December. The best quality of iron ore is found along the western base of the Green mountains, and considerable quantities of lead, zinc and copper are found in different parts of the state. At Rutland are rich quarries of statuary marble. Small quantities of gold have also been discovered. A lump weighing ten and a half ounces was discovered in Newfane, in 1826. At the towns of Bridgewater, Stowe, and Plymouth this precious ore is found. The soil of Vermont is a rich marl, and produces Indian corn, oats, wheat, rye, potatoes, and hops in great abundance. The mountainous district is covered with a heavy grass, affording excellent pasturage for cattle. Among the forest trees are found the hemlock, fir, spruce, oak, beech, sugar-maple, pine, hickory, elm, butternut, birch, cedar, and basswood. Vermont has a valuable lumber trade, and is extensively engaged in the manu- facture of maple sugar. In 1860, there were two millions eight hundred and twenty-three thousand one hundred and fifty-seven acres of land under cultivation. In manufactures, Vermont holds only a secondary rank among the United States. The number of manufacturing establish- ments in the state in 1850, engaged in mining and the mechani- cal arts, numbered fourteen hundred and eighty-nine. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 151 The commerce of Vermont is carried on by means of Lake Champlain. Her imports for the year 1862, amounted to two millions five hundred and sixty-seven thousand eight hundred and ninety -two dollars ; exports, seven hundred and thirty-six thousand six hundred and sixty-three dollars. The state contains five hundred and fifty-six miles of railroad, fifty woollen mills, ten cotton mills, five hundred and ninety-six churches, one hundred and eighteen academies and high schools, two thousand nine hundred and thirty-seven district free schools, and thirty-six weekly and six daily newspapers. Montpelier is the capital, and Burlington is the largest city. MONTPELIEK, The capital, is the seat of justice of Washington county, on the right bank of the Onion river, two hundred miles north-west of Boston, on the Boston and St. Lawrence railroad. The most important building is the state house, a rich granite edifice one hundred and fifty feet long, one hundred feet wide, and surmounted by a dome, the top of which is one hundred feet above the ground. Montpelier contains six churches, five news- paper offices, three banks, an academy, and several other schools. Population in 1860, 2,411. BURLINGTON, The metropolis of Vermont, and seat of justice of Chittenden county, is on Burlington bay, forty miles north-east of Montpe- lier. At the mouth of the bay, on Juniper island, is a light house, erected by the United States government, and a break- water to protect shipping. Burlington has excellent water com- munication by means of Lake Champlain, and is on railroad lines leading to important cities of New England and Canada. The Vermont university is located in the eastern suburbs of the the town, on an elevation, two hundred and eighty-one feet above the level of the sea. This institution, consisting of four build- ings, was founded in 1791. The city has four newspapers offices, four banks, several churches, and seven thousand three hundred and seventy-five tons of shipping. In 1860 the inhabitants numbered 7,713. 152 NEW ENGLAND STATES. ST. JOHNSBURY, An important town and capital of Caledonia county, Ver- mont, is thirty-six miles north-east of Montpelier, and fifty miles east of Burlington. It is on the western bank of the Passump- sic river, which affords abundant water power for the mills and manufactories in the town. It contains forty stores, and a man- ufactory for Fairbanks' scales. It has also four foundries with machine shops, two banks, and a number of churches. Popula- tion 3,500. (See views of St. Johnsbury.) St. Johnsbury Centre is two miles north of St. Johnsbury, on the Passumpsic river, and Passumpsic river railroad. It contains four churches, two carriage manufactories, and three mills. Population 750. (See views of St. Johnsbury Centre.) Waterford is a township of Caledonia county, about forty-five miles north of Montpelier, intersected by the Connecticut river and the Passumpsic river railroad. The surface is very uneven, and is traversed by ridges of hills and cliffs. (See views of Waterford.) The population of Vermont has a steady, though not rapid increase. In 1790 the inhabitants numbered only eighty-five thousand four hundred and sixteen. In 1860 the state had a population of three hundred and fifteen thousand and ninety- eight, of which three hundred and fourteen thousand three hun- dred and eighty-nine were white, and seven hundred and nine colored. The government of the state is administered by a gov- ernor, lieutenant governor, senate and house of representatives. The senate consists of thirty and the house of representatives of two hundred and thirty members. Vermont sends three mem- bers to the national house of representatives, and is entitled to five electoral votes for president. MASSACHUSETTS. Massachusetts, one of the thirteen original United States, lies between latitude 41° 15' and 42° 53' N., and longitude 69° 56' and 73° 32' W. It is bounded on the north by Vermont and New Hampshire; on the south by Connecticut, Rhode Island, NEW ENGLAND STATES. 153 Buzzard's Bay and Vineyard Sound ; on the east by Cape Cod Bay, Massachusetts Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean ; and on the west by New York. Its length from east to west is one hundred and sixty miles ; from north to south, forty-seven to one hund- red and ten miles ; area, seven thousand eight hundred square miles, or four millions nine hundred and ninety-two thousand acres. In the western part of the state are the Green mountains, and, scattered over the country, are solitary peaks, sometimes attaining a great hight. Mounts Tom and Holyoke, on oppo- site sides of the Connecticut river, in Hampden county, are isolated peaks, having respective hights of twelve hundred and fourteen and nine hundred and thirty feet. Mount Wachusett, in Worcester county, two thousand and eighteen feet high, commands a brilliant prospect. Saddle mountain, the culminai:- ing point of the state, is in Berkshire county, and has an altitude of three thousand eight hundred feet. The north-eastern por- tion of the state is hilly, and the south-eastern low and sandy. The western part of the state is remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. Berkshire county, in particular, de- serves the attention of all lovers of the picturesque. It has an area of one thousand square miles, and lies east of the Green mountains, occupying the entire length of the state from north to south. The surface is very uneven, and in some parts moun- tainous. Saddle mountain, in the northern, and Bald Peak, in the southern part of the county, are the principal elevations. Monument mountain, in the township of Stockbridge, has a bold and rocky summit, and a perpendicular ascent of over two hund- red feet, from the valley below. (See views of Monument mountain.) A deep ravine, of great wildness, in the same town- ship, called the Ice Glen, contains ice during the whole year. (See views of the Ice Glen.) Among the other remarkable natural objects of Berkshire county, may be mentioned the Falls of the Housatonic, near Dalton ; a rock in Marlborough, weigh- ing nearly fifty tons, and so accurately balanced that it will move, when slightly pressed ; Hanging mountain, rising perpen- dicularly three hundred feet above the Farmington river ; and 154 NEW ENGLAND STATES. the Natural Bridge, on Hudson's brook, in North Adams. (See views of Natural Bridge.) At this point, a fissure, fifty feet deep and five hundred feet long, has been worn through solid rock, forming a bridge forty-seven feet above the water. The principal rivers of the state, are the Connecticut, Merri- mac and Housatonic. The Merrimac has a course of forty miles, in the state, and on its banks are the cities of Lowell, Lawrence, Andover and Newburyport. The falls and rapids of both this river and the Connecticut, render navigation difficult, but afford immense water-power for the manufacturing cities through which they pass. The soil and climate of Massachusetts are unfavorable for agriculture. The south-eastern portion of the state is low and sandy, and salt marshes abound near the coast. The western half is the most productive, and in the Connecticut and Housa- tonic valleys there are extremely fertile districts. The staple productions are, Indian corn, oats, potatoes, rye, buckwheat, barley, fruits, hay, and maple sugar. In 1860, Massachusetts produced one hundred and nineteen thousand seven hundred and eighty-three bushels of wheat, two millions one hundred and fifty- seven thousand and sixty-three bushels of corn, three millions two hundred and thirty-three thousand one hundred and ninety- eight pounds of tobacco, and three hundred and seventy-seven thousand two hundred and sixty-seven pounds of wool. In proportion to her size, Massachusetts holds the first rank in the union as a manufacturing state. According to the man- ufacturing statistics of 1860, there were eight thousand one hundred and seventy-six establishments in the state, employing a capital of one hundred and thirty-three millions of dollars. The value of her manufactures for the same year amounted to two hundred and sixty-six millions of dollars. There are also in the state one hundred and fifty woollen mills, three hundred cotton mills, thirteen carpet mills, and many iron foundries and nail factories. The manufacture of boots and shoes alone amounts to fifty millions of dollars a year. In commercial importance, Massachusetts is second only to New York. Her principal exports are her manufactures, rocks NEW ENGLAND STATES. 155 and ice. She is largely engaged in fisheries, which give employ- ment to over thirty thousand persons. Boston exports an aver- age of one hundred thousand tons of ice yearly. Granite and iron are the most important mineral products. Mines of lead were worked as early as 1765, at Northampton. Coal is found in limited quantities in the vicinity of Mansfield. Boston is the capital, and largest city of the state. Other important cities are Lowell, Cambridge, Roxbury, Charlestown and Worcester. BOSTON, The capital, is one of the oldest towns in the union, and, next to New York, is the most important commercial city in the United States. It is the capital of Suffolk county, and is situ- ated at the western extremity of Massachusetts bay, four hund- red and sixty-four miles northeast of Washington, and about one-half of that distance from New York. The city is divided into three parts, viz : Boston Proper, or Old Boston, East Bos- ton and South Boston. A very hilly and uneven peninsula, of five hundred acres, forms the site of Boston Proper, which is connected with Roxbury by a narrow isthmus, about a mile and a quarter long. This isthmus was formerly, during rainy weath- er, flooded with water, but it has recently been improved, and is now traversed by several good roads. Boston is also connected with the surrounding cities by a number of bridges, of which the Charles river bridge, connecting the city with Charlestown ; Old Cambridge bridge, two thousand seven hundred and fifty- eight feet long, crossing the Charles river to Cambridge road ; South Boston bridge, one thousand five hundred and fifty feet long, leading to South Boston; and Canal bridge, connecting Boston with Letchmere Point, now Cambridge, are the most important. South Boston is on the southern side of the harbor, between Boston Proper and Fort Independence. East Boston, the terminus of the Grand Junction Railroad, occupies about six hundred and sixty acres of the western portion of Noddle's Island. Originally, the streets of Boston were narrow and crooked ; but much has recently been done to improve them. The most 156 NEW ENGLAND STATES. important streets are Tremont and Washington. Some of the fashionable promenades are bordered with beautiful elms, some of which are over a century old. The Boston Common, an in- closure of fifty acres, in the western part of Old Boston, near the Charles river, is one of the finest public parks in America. It was formerly called " Tower's Field," and was used as a town cow-pasture. In the center of the common is a pond, from which spouts a large fountain, from fifty to sixty feet high. The grounds are surrounded by an elegant and costly iron fence, three hundred and sixty rods in length. Between the common and the river is a botanic garden, covering twenty-five acres of ground. The state-house was built in 1798, and holds a conspicuous place among the public buildings of the city. The building is one hundred and seventy feet long, sixty-five feet wide, and is surmounted by a dome thirty feet high, and one hundred and twenty feet above the ground. On the entrance floor is a statue of Washington, by Chaucer. Faneuil Hall, the " Cradle of Liberty," as it is called, is an object of much interest, as being the place where the orators, in the days of Hancock and Adams, roused the people to resistance against British oppression. The Quincy Market, erected at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, is five hundred feet long, fifty feet wide, two stories high, and surmounted by a lofty dome. The City Hall, erected in 1864 and 1865, is one of the handsomest build- ings in the United States. It is constructed of granite, which was brought from Concord, New Hampshire, and cost the city nearly six hundred thousand dollars. The Merchant's Exchange, on State street, is two hundred and fifty feet long, seventy-five feet broad, and cost one hundred and seventy-five thousand dol- lars. " The front is composed of Quincy granite, with four pilasters, each a single stone forty-five feet high, and weighing about fifty-five tons." In the Music Hall, on Winter street, is the " Great Organ," the richest and most powerful instrument of the kind ever constructed. It was built at Ludwigslust, Germany, and cost sixty thousand dollars. It is sixty feet high, NEW ENGLAND STATES. 157 forty-eight feet wide, twenty-four feet deep, has eighty-nine stops, and about six thousand pipes. Prominent among the Boston hotels, is the Tremont house, a first-class hotel on Tremont street. The Winthrop house is also a fine hotel, on Tremont street. The other principal hotels are the Revere house, on Bowdoin square ; the American house, on Hanover street ; and the Parker house. Boston contains, also, a large number of libraries, the most noted of which are the Boston Athenaeum, containing sixty thousand volumes ; the Massachusetts Historical Society, having twelve thousand volumes ; the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, having fifteen thousand volumes ; the Mercantile Li- brary Association, thirteen thousand five hundred volumes ; and the State Library, having ten thousand volumes. The Public Library building, erected in 1858, at a cost of three hundred and sixty-three thousand six hundred and thirty-three dollars, is directly opposite the Common, on Boylston street, and con- tains ninety-five thousand volumes. Boston supports an immense foreign and domestic commerce. Of the three thousand and eleven vessels that entered the port of Boston during the year ending June 30, 1863, eight hundred and thirty-six were American, and two thousand one hundred and seventy-five foreign. Boston receives an abundant supply of fresh water from Lake Cochituate, twenty miles west of the city. The water is received in an immense reservoir in Brook- line, by means of a brick water-pipe, from whence it is conveyed to different reservoirs throughout the city. Boston contains one hundred churches, and the same number of periodical publica- tions. Population, in 1860, one hundred and seventy-seven thousand eight hundred and forty. (See views of Boston.) LOWELL, A city of Massachusetts, and, next to Boston, the largest in the state, is at the junction of the Concord with the Merrimac river, thirty miles north-west of Boston, and eight miles south from the dividing line between New Hampshire and the state in 158 NEW ENGLAND STATES. which it is situated. Five railroads, establishing an uninter- rupted line of communication with cities on the sea coast, and in the interior, have their terminus at Lowell. The city is reg- ularly laid off, and contains three handsome public parks, or commons as they are more commonly called. The streets are very direct, and intersect each other at right angles. The principal public buildings are the court house and county jail, the former erected in 1851, at a cost of one hundred thou- sand dollars, the latter in 1855-56, at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Other noted edifices are Mechanics' building, Huntington hall, and Wentworth's, Carlton, and Ap- pleton blocks. The chief libraries of the city are the Merchants' association and city library, the former containing nine thousand and the latter twelve hundred volumes. At Lowell the Merrimac river has a perpendicular pitch of thirty-three feet, called the Pawtucket falls, which affords im- mense water power to this great manufacturing town. Thirteen manufacturing companies in Lowell, in 1864, had in their pos- session fifty-four mills, and employed a capital of thirteen mil- lions eight hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Lowell has thirty-two churches, forty-five primary, eight grammar, and one high school, several private schools, seven banks, two insurance companies, five newspaper offices, extensive manufactories of of cotton and woollen goods, carpets, prints, etc., consuming twenty-five millions pounds of cotton per annum ; eleven machine shops, six carriage manufactories, four lumber dealing firms, four sash, door, and blind factories, and three paper mills. " The sixth Massachusetts regiment, principally from Lowell, was the first to enter the field in response to the call of Presi- dent Lincoln, April 15th, 1861, for seventy-five thousand volun- teers. The regiment left Lowell on the 16th ; on the 19th was attacked by a mob in Baltimore, and two of its members — Ladd and Whitney — both of Lowell, were killed. A monument to these first martyrs of the great American rebellion, has been erected in a public square in the heart of the city." The popu- lation of Lowell has been greatly increased by foreign emigra- tion. Population in 1860, 36,827. NEW ENGLAND STATES. 159 CAMBRIDGE, An important city and semi-capital of Middlesex county, is on the northern bank of the Charles river, three miles north-east of Boston, with which city it is connected by water communication, and by the old Cambridge and canal bridges. Cambridge is finely laid off, the streets being broad, and shaded with lofty and majestic elms, some of which are nearly one hundred years old. Cambridge is one of the oldest towns in the union, and is the seat of Harvard university. (See views of university.) This institution, founded in 1648, is the most interesting object con- nected with the town. It was named in honor of Rev. John Harvard, who bequeathed to it a legacy of seven hundred and eighty-one pounds. Its present fund exceeds one million dollars. A law and theological school, and a medical college, are connected with the university, and there is also a depart- ment for those wishing to enter upon a scientific course, inde- pendent of other branches. Of the twenty-one buildings belonging to the university, twenty are in Cambridge, and one in Grove street, Boston. Cambridge contains twenty churches, six banks, several hotels, the county buildings, post office, and a large number of manufactories. Population, 26,060. ROXBURY, Is an important town of Massachusetts, in Norfolk county, three miles south-west of Boston, on the Boston and Providence railroad. It is connected with Boston by several stage roads crossing the "Boston Neck." The site of the city presents every variety of surface, from the lofty hill, down to districts nearly level with the sea. From the summit of many of these hills, a good view can be obtained of the city of Boston, and much of the surrounding scenery. Roxbury might justly be re- garded as a suburb of Boston, being closely connected in wealth and interest with that city. Many of the Boston business men have beautiful residences in Roxbury. Roxbury has manufac- tories of fire and steam engines, steam boilers, carpetings, fringe, tassels, leather, etc. Population, 25,137. 160 NEW ENGLAND STATES. CHARLESTOWN, A city of Middlesex county, is on the northern side of the Charles river, directly opposite Boston. The peninsula on which the city is built, formed by the confluence of the Mystic with the Charles river, is, like most of the country in the vicinity, rugged and hilly. Charlestown is connected with Boston and Cambridge by the Prison Point bridge, which strikes the centre of canal bridge, which connects the two former cities. The city is finely built, having wide and shady streets, and many elegant edifices. Main, Bunker Hill, and Medford, running north and south, are the principal streets. The city contains four banks, a huge state prison, with accommodations for five hundred con- victs, and a United States navy yard, occupying eighty acres, at the foot of Bunker Hill. The dry dock, built at a cost of six hundred and seventy thousand dollars, is at the upper end of the yard. It is three hundred and forty-one feet long, eighty feet wide, thirty feet deep, and constructed of granite. " The chief object of interest, however, to persons visiting Charlestown, is the Bunker Hill monument, erected in commem- oration of the first great battle fought between the British and Americans. It stands on Breed's Hill, usually called Bunker Hill, near the spot where the brave Warren fell. Its founda- tions, which are fifty feet above the level of the sea, are enclosed twelve feet under ground. The corner stone was laid by Mar- quis de Lafayette, June 17th, 1825. The fifteenth anniversary of the battle, June 17th, 1843, the completion of the monument was celebrated, in the presence of the president of the United States, many of the members of his cabinet, and a vast concourse of citizens. It consists of a plain granite shaft, two hundred and twenty feet high, thirty-one feet square at the base, and fifteen feet at the top. Within is a winding stairway, by which it is ascended to a chamber immediately under the apex, eleven feet in diameter, containing four windows, which afford a mag- nificent panoramic view of the surrounding country. In this chamber are two of the four cannon which constituted the whole train of field artillery possessed by the Americans at the com- mencement of the war, in April, 1775. These two pieces are NEW ENGLAND STATES. 161 named respectively Hancock and Adams." (See views of Bun- ker Hill.) Mystic lake, five miles from the city, supplies Charlestown with a stream of pure, fresh water. Population in 1860, 25,063. WORCESTER Is the seat of justice of Worcester county, forty-five miles south-west of Boston. It is on the northern bank of the Black- stone river, partially environed with beautiful hills, and is inter- sected by six important railways. Main street is the chief busi- ness thoroughfare, and contains the court house, churches, and all the important public buildings of the city. The American antiquarian society building is eighty feet long, fifty feet wide, contains thirty -five thousand volumes, and " plaster casts of Michael Angelo's celebrated statues of Christ and Moses." Worcester contains eighteen churches, seven banks, five news- paper offices, six insurance companies, an excellent system of schools, and a large number of rolling and woollen mills, found- ries, etc. Population in 1860, 24,960. In 1860 the population of Massachusetts was one million two hundred and thirty-one thousand and sixty-six, of whom one million two hundred and twenty-one thousand four hundred and sixty-four were white, and nine thousand six hundred and two were colored. The state contains one hundred and seventy-six banks, sixteen hundred miles of railroad divided between fifty- one companies, sixteen hundred and thirty-six churches, twenty- two daily papers, two hundred and eighty-two periodical publi- cations, four thousand four hundred and forty-four public schools, seven hundred and fifty academies, four normal schools, five colleges, and three lunatic asylums. The governor of Massachusetts receives a salary of two thou- sand five hundred dollars per annum. The senate is composed of forty and the house of representatives of three hundred and fifty-six members. Massachusetts is represented by eleven members in the national house of representatives, and is entitled to thirteen electoral votes for president. 11 162 NEW ENGLAND STATES. CONNECTICUT. Connecticut, one of the thirteen original United States, lies between latitude 41° and 42° 3' N., and longitude 71° 55' and 73° 50' W. It is bounded on the north by Massachusetts, on the south by Long Island sound, on the east by Rhode Island, and on the west by New York. It greatest length from north to south is sixty-eight miles, from east to west about ninety-three miles, including an area of four thousand six hundred and seven- ty-four square miles, or two millions nine hundred and ninety- one thousand three hundred and sixty acres. The surface of Connecticut is greatly diversified by mountains and hills. The Green mountains, which extend nearly across the state, reach no great hight, and would more properly be denominated hills. Many subordinate ridges are found between the Connecticut and Housatonic, and east of the former river are elevations supposed to be a part of the White mountain chain. On either side of the Connecticut, near its mouth, are walls of trap rock, through which the river, at some early period, has worn for itself a channel. The principal rivers of Connecticut are the Housatonic, Con- necticut, and Thames. The Housatonic rises in Berkshire county, Massachusetts, and, after a southerly course of one hundred and fifty miles, enters Long Island sound, fifteen miles below Derby. The river has a fall of one thousand feet from its source to its mouth, which, though derogatory to navigation, affords valuable water power to the numerous manufacturing towns upon its banks. The most beautiful descent of the river, occurs between Falls village and Canaan, thirty-seven miles north-east of New Haven. (See views of the Housatonic.) The Connecticut river is safe for large vessels as far north as Middle- town, and the Housatonic as far as Derby. The Thames traverses the eastern portion of the state, and is navigable as far as Nor- wich, fourteen miles from its mouth. In regard to climate, Connecticut ranks among the foremost of the United States. Her winters, like all of the New England states, are generally severe, but her springs are earlier, and NEW ENGLAND STATES. 163 summers, owing to her proximity to the sea, less subject to in- tense heat. The soil, especially in the valleys of the Connecti- cut, Housatonic, and Thames, is exceedingly fertile. The beau- tiful valley of the Connecticut, called by the Indians " the pleasant country," contains some of the oldest towns of the United States. The western half of the state is devoted to agriculture, the eastern chiefly to grazing and pasturage. The staple productions are butter, cheese, wool, maize, oats, barley, wheat, flax, hemp, and tobacco. Principal minerals, marble, freestone, and iron. The commerce and manufactures of Connecticut, though not very large, are important. The value of the exports of the year ending June 30th, 1861, amounted to four hundred and twenty- one thousand three hundred and twenty dollars ; imports, seven hundred and fifty-three thousand three hundred and nine dollars. According to the manufacturing statistics of the same year, the capital invested amounted to forty-five millions seven hundred and seventy thousand dollars ; amount of the annual product, eighty-three millions. The capitals of the state are Hartford and New Haven. Other important cities are Middletown, New London, and Norwich. NEW HAVEN, A city and capital of a county of the same name, and semi- capital of the state of Connecticut, is at the head of New Haven bay, a branch of Long Island sound, seventy-six miles north- east of New York, and one hundred miles south-west of Boston. The city is on a level and undulating plain, sloping gently back from the sea. The scenery which surrounds New Haven is in the highest degree picturesque and beautiful. On every side, except where it is bordered by the sea, the city is sur- rounded by lofty hills, two of which, one upon either side of the town, have a perpendicular ascent of nearly four hundred feet, and are called from their position, east and west rocks. Chapel street, the fashionable promenade of the city, extends in a north- westerly direction from Mill river, through the entire length of the city. 164 NEW ENGLAND STATES. In New Haven a neatness and regularity is observable, which is rarely found in other cities. The city covers from six to seven square miles, and is regularly laid off, the streets running in parallel directions, and crossing each other at right angles. Beautiful elms, lining the streets, and ornamenting public squares and parks, are scattered throughout the city. From the great abundance of these trees, New Haven is appropriately styled the " City of Elms." In Temple street they are so numerous and large that the rays of the sun seldom penetrate through the mass of foliage to the walk beneath. A succession of beautiful residences on Hill House avenue are almost entirely hid from view by the profusion of foliage and flowers. A public square of sixteen acres, called the " Green," is one of the finest parks in the United States. Wooster and York are the other principal squares, the former containing five acres, and lying in the eastern part of the city. New Haven is the seat of Yale college, which is, undoubtedly, the greatest institution of its kind in the union. It was founded in 1700, by ten farmers, who each donated a number of books for its support ; and named in honor of Elihu Yale, who at his death, left to the institution a large sum of money. A whole block, immediately east of the public green, is occupied by the college and its buildings. On the eastern side of the square are five brick buildings, each four stories high, and containing study rooms and sleeping apartments. In the same row are the chapel, observatory, and lyceum. Farther back is the Trumbull gal- lery, containing a choice collection of historical paintings. Near the western end of the square is the library building, a hand- some gothic structure one hundred and fifty feet long. " Among the principal public edifices may be mentioned the state house, standing in the western section of the green. It is a large stuccoed building, modeled after the Parthenon, and contains, besides the legislative halls, apartments for the supreme, superior, and county courts." " The new railroad depot, recently erected on Chapel street, near State street, is a fine brick structure, with towers." The NEW ENGLAND STATES. 165 other principal buildings are St. Paul's chapel and Trinity church, both handsome stone buildings. The harbor of New Haven is very shallow, rendering a near approach to land both difficult and dangerous. To meet this difficulty, a wharf has been built in the bay, which extends nearly three thousand five hundred feet from the shore. The city has four newspaper offices, five banks, with an aggregate capital of two millions of dollars, and a savings institution, having eight hundred and thirty-five thousand one hundred and twelve dollars on deposit. Population in 1860, 39,268. (See views of New Haven.) HARTFORD, Semi-capital, and, next to New Haven, the largest city of Connecticut, is in Hartford county, on the western bank of the Connecticut river, about one hundred and twenty-four miles south-west of Boston, and thirty-six miles north-east of New Haven. The city covers about two thousand acres of very un- even ground, which is intersected by upwards of seven hundred streets and alleys. Main street, two miles long, and containing the most important business buildings, extends through the entire length of the city from north to south, dividing it in two nearly equal parts. State street, extending from Main street to the river, contains a large number of wholesale establishments. Brick and freestone are the chief building materials. The court house, erected in 1792, is one of the finest buildings in the city. This structure, of the Doric order, is one hundred and fourteen feet long, seventy-six feet wide, fifty-four feet high, and is surmounted by a lofty dome. Trinity college, in a richly ornamented inclosure, one mile south of the state house, is one of the finest educational establishments in the state. Wads- worth athenaeum, devoted to science, literature, and the arts, and having a library of five thousand volumes, is a turreted gothic building of granite construction, "A gallery of paint- ings, and other rooms devoted to the fine arts occupy the central portion of the building." The American asylum for deaf and dumb, founded in 1820, is a four story building, one hundred 166 NEW ENGLAND STATES. and thirty feet long, and fifty feet wide, attended by about two hundred and thirty pupils. Hartford contains twelve banks, twenty-four churches, seven newspaper offices, and seventeen fire and life insurance companies. Population, 29,152. MIDDLETOWN, An important city of Connecticut, and semi-capital of Middle- sex county, is twenty-four miles north-east of New Haven, at the head of ship navigation on the Connecticut, and on the Air Line railway extending from New York to Boston. It is pleas- antly situated on the slope of a hill, on the western bank of the river. Main street, the principal thoroughfare, comprises the business portion of the town. The principal buildings are the custom house, court house, and the Wesleyan university, the latter occupying an eminence, and commanding an extensive view of the valley of the Connecticut. Middletown has a fine harbor, and enjoys important water communications with cities on the river. The city contains four banks, two savings institutions, and manufactories of hardware, guns, leather, etc. Population in 1860, 5,182. NEW LONDON, An important city of Connecticut, and semi-capital of New London county, is on the western bank of the Thames river, about three miles from Long Island sound. The ground on which the city is built was formerly covered with huge granite rocks, in consequence of which the city was laid off with little regard to regularity. Much has been done of late, however, to overcome the original inequalities of the surface. In the western suburbs of the city is a lofty hill, from the summit of which a varied and extensive view can be obtained. Prominent among the public buildings are the custom house, an elegant granite structure, and court house. New London is extensively engaged in commerce and fisheries, and is also rich in manufactures. The harbor is three miles long, and thirty feet deep, and is encircled on nearly every side by lofty hills, and defended by two strong fortresses, only one NEW ENGLAND STATES. 167 of which, however, is garrisoned. The receipts from the whale fishery for the year 1852, were one million three hundred and forty-nine thousand eight hundred and seventy-two dollars. New London has ten churches, four newspaper offices, sixteen public schools, five banks, with a capital of six hundred thousand dollars, and a savings institution with seven hundred and six thousand one hundred and forty-four dollars on deposit. Popu- lation in 1860, 10,115. NORWICH, Beautifully situated at the head of the Thames river, is the semi-capital of New London county, and, next to New Haven and Hartford, is the largest city in Connecticut. The Yantic and Shetucket rivers, which here unite to form the Thames, have each falls and rapids which afford immense hydraulic power to the foundries, mills, etc., of this manufactur- ing city. The southern portion of the city occupies the slope of a large hill, but to the north it stretches over an elevated and extensive plain. Norwich contains the county buildings, an excellent high school, and a large number of elegant and costly private residences. About three hundred and fifty men are em- ployed by the Norwich arms company in the manufacture of government fire-arms. Norwich forms communications with cities on the seaboard, and in the interior by means of the Norwich and Worcester and the New London northern railroads. The city contains seven- teen churches, three newspaper offices, four insurance companies, forty public schools, seven banks, three savings banks, and about one hundred manufactories of cotton and woollen goods, paper, machinery, etc. Population in 1860, 14,048. NORWALK, Is a city of Fairfield county, on both sides of the Norwalk river, on the route of the New York and New Haven railroad, forty-five miles north-east of New York, and thirty-one miles south-west of New Haven. Norwalk is noted for the manufacture of felt cloth, of which two companies make over five hundred thousand yards per 168 NEW ENGLAND STATES. annum. The city contains nine churches, five banks, three union school houses, one of which ranks among the finest educa- tional establishments in the state, and two newspaper offices. The Danbury and Norwalk and New York and New Haven railroads form a junction at Norwalk, by means of which an unbroken line of railway communication is established with all important cities in the state. Vessels drawing six feet of water ascend the river from Long Island sound as far as Norwalk. Population in 1860, 7,582. (See views of Norwalk.) In 1790 the population of Connecticut was two hundred and thirty-eight thousand one hundred and forty-one ; in 1860, four hundred and sixty thousand one hundred and forty-seven. This small increase is, doubtless, owing to the fact that a large por- tion of the population are yearly emigrating to other states. Connecticut has seven hundred and sixty miles of railroad in use. The state contains eight hundred and two churches, five colleges, eighteen hundred and ten public schools, and one hun- dred and ninety-five academies. The governor and lieutenant governor are elected by universal suffrage, the former receiving eleven hundred dollars and the latter three hundred dollars per annum. The senate is composed of twenty-one and the house of representatives of two hundred and fifteen members. Connec- ticut is represented by four members in the national house of representatives, and is entitled to six electoral votes for president. RHODE ISLAND. Rhode Island, the smallest of the United States, and the last of the thirteen original states, lies between latitude 41° 18' and 42° N., and longitude 71° 8' and 71° 52' W. It is bounded on the north and north-east by Massachusetts, on the south and south-east by the Atlantic ocean and the Narragansett bay, on the east by Massachusetts, and on the west by Connecticut. It is forty-seven miles long, and thirty-seven miles broad, and in- cludes an area of thirteen hundred and six square miles, or eight hundred and thirty-five thousand eight hundred and forty acres. Though the general character of the country is hilly and rugged, there are level districts bordering upon the Atlantic NEW ENGLAND STATES. Jgp, ocean and Narragansett bay. The most important elevations are the Woonsocket hills in the northern, Mount Hope in the western, and Hopkin's hill in the central part of the state. The principal rivers are the Blackstone and Patuxet the former rising in Massachusetts, and crossing the north-eastern portion of Rhode Island, and both entering the Narragansett bay The other rivers of the state, though small, are rapid, and afford valuable water powers. The Narragansett bay is a beau- tiful sheet of water, thirty miles long and twelve broad, and containing numerous picturesque islands. Block island ten miles from the coast, is eight miles long, and from two to five miles broad. The climate of Rhode Island resembles that of Connecticut The soil of the state is not very fertile, more attention being given to grazing than to tilling. Some of the adjoining islands however are extremely productive. The chief productions are wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, beans, wool butter, honey, wine, and flax. Rhode Island is extensively engaged in manufactures. Ac- cording to the manufacturing statistics of the year ending June 60 1861, the capital invested amounted to twenty-three millions of dollars ; value of the annual product, forty-seven millions five hundred thousand dollars. The commerce of Rhode Island is chiefly confined to the neighboring states. Her exports for the year 1861 amounted to two hundred and fifty-five thousand two hundred and ninety-seven dollars; imports, five hundred and torty-three thousand six hundred and fifty-two dollars. Providence and Newport are the capitals and largest cities in the state. Other important towns are Southfield and Warwick. PROVIDENCE, < The largest city and semi-capital of Rhode Island, and seat of justice of Providence county, is situated on both sides of an arm of he Narragansett bay, called Providence river, one hundred and seventy-five miles north-east of New York, and forty-three miles south-west of Boston. The ground on which the city is built is very uneven, and rises on the eastern side, in a single 170 NEW ENGLAND STATES. instance, to a hight of two hundred and four feet. The greatest elevation on the western side is seventy-eight feet. In conse- quence of the irregularity of the surface, the city was laid off with little regard to beauty or neatness. Much has recently been done, however, to overcome the original defects, though the city is not, as yet, a pattern of beauty or elegance. Several bridges connect East and West Providence, one of which is over one hundred and forty feet wide. Prominent among the public buildings is the Arcada, on the western side of the river, fronting on Broad street. This struc- ture, two hundred and twenty-five feet long, eighty feet wide, and three stories high, is built of granite, and in richness and elegance surpasses every building in the city. " What Cheer " is the name applied to a beautiful freestone edifice in Market square. The other principal buildings are the custom house, erected at a cost of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars, state house, a fine brick structure, and the market house on Market square, containing city government offices. The principal churches are Grace and First Congregational, gothic edifices of granite construction. Providence contains the Butler hospital for the insane, which is located on the right bank of the Seekonk river. It was estab- lished in 1844, and called the Rhode Island hospital, but in 1851 it received its present name from Cyrus Butler, Esq., who con- tributed forty thousand dollars to aid in the support of the insti- tution. The Dexter asylum for the poor, one hundred and seventy feet long, and three stories high, is on the eastern bank of the river, in an enclosure of forty acres. The wall that en- closes the building is ten feet high, and was constructed at a cost of twenty thousand dollars. On an eminence on the same side of the river is the Brown university, established first at Warren, and removed to Provi- dence in 1770. The Athenaeum, a costly stone structure, founded in 1836, contains a free reading room, and a carefully selected library of twenty-seven thousand six hundred and nine- ty-five volumes. Near the centre of the city is a circular park or promenade, eighty feet wide, enclosing a delightful sheet of NEW ENGLAND STATES. 171 water about one mile in circumference, which constitutes the head waters of Narragansett bay. Providence formerly carried on a large foreign trade, but her commerce at the present time is chiefly domestic. The city con- tains fifty-two churches, ten newspaper offices, twenty-seven school buildings, forty-five banks, four steam fire engines, two manufactories of wood screws, two musket manufactories, and one hundred stationary steam engines, worked by three hundred and ten steam boilers. Population of the city in 1865, 55,000. NEWPORT, Semi-capital of Rhode Island, and seat of justice of Newport county, is on the western end of a large island of the same name as the state to which it belongs, in the Narragansett bay, twenty- eight miles south-east of Providence. Newport has one of the finest harbors in the union, and, up to the time of the revolutionary war, was second to none of the New England cities in commercial wealth. During that war her population was reduced more than one-half, and she has since never been able to regain her former standing. The site of the city is a beautiful rounded elevation, overlooking the harbor and bay, and commanding a varied and extensive prospect. The most important public buildings are the state house, an imposing brick edifice, surmounted by a cupola, market house, and custom house. Among the churches may be mentioned the Synagogue and Friends' meeting house. The Redwood library, established in 1788, contains fifteen thousand volumes, and an apartment devoted to the fine arts. Newport is a fashionable watering place, and during the sum- mer months is much frequented by tourists, and made the home of wealthy gentlemen, who have established beautiful country seats in the vicinity. For those in quest of sea air and change of scenery, Newport presents unrivaled attractions. A large number of elegant and fashionable hotels have been erected for the accommodation of visitors. Of these the Bellevue house and Ocean house are the most important. The city contains fifteen churches, two newspaper publications, an academy, an excellent 172 NEW ENGLAND STATES. system of public schools, ten banks, and manufactories of car- riages, clocks, calicoes, muslins, etc. Population in 1860, 10,508. In 1860, Rhode Island had one hundred and seventy-four thousand six hundred and twenty inhabitants, of which one hun- dred and seventy thousand six hundred and sixty-eight were white, and three thousand nine hundred and fifty-two colored. Rhode Island has fifty miles of railroad, three hundred and ten churches, one college, four hundred and twenty-six public schools, fifty-eight academies, three hundred and two libraries, and twenty-six newspaper publications. The governor receives for his services one thousand dollars, and the lieutenant governor three hundred dollars per annum. The senate consists of thirty-one and the house of representatives of seventy-two members. In November, 1862, the state con- tained twenty-one savings banks, in which was deposited nine millions five hundred and sixty thousand four hundred and forty- one dollars. CHAPTER II. THE MIDDLE STATES. NEW YORK. New York, the largest of the Middle States, and the most important and populous of the United States, is bounded on the north by Canada ; on the south by Pennsylvania and New Jer- sey ; on the east by Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut ; on the south-east by Long Island Sound ; and on the west by Canada, Pennsylvania and Lake Erie. Lakes Erie and Onta- rio, and the St. Lawrence and Niagara rivers, separate the state from Canada ; Lake Champlain, from Vermont ; and the Dela- ware river, from Pennsylvania. It lies between latitude 40° 30' and 45° N., and longitude 72° and 79° 55' W. Greatest length of the state from north to south, three hundred and eight miles ; from east to west, including Long Island, three hundred and thirty-five miles ; area, forty-seven thousand square miles, or thirty million and eight hundred thousand acres. The eastern portion of the state is rugged and mountainous. The Highlands, formed by the Schooley mountains, the eastern ridge of the Alleghanies, are from five hundred to one thousand five hundred feet high. These elevations are continued across the south-eastern portion of the state, by the Taconic moun- tains, which take the name of Green mountains, in Massachu- setts and Connecticut. The Adirondacks, the most important group, are in the north-eastern part of the state, and border upon Lake Champlain. Mount Marcy has an altitude of five thous- and four hundred and sixty-seven feet, and is the culminating point of the state. Mount Anthony, in the wild region of Lake Champlain, is five thousand feet high. The Catskill mountains extend from Catskill, on the Hudson, to Utica, on a branch of the Mohawk. These mountains abound with wild glens and beautiful water-falls, and are one of the greatest resorts for 174 U ■:as. ••_•-..--■• delation at '.' ' *t an el I !1 Fall, which is ~ ; ~ - • ; ' : . - ( grand and imj An rtained from 1 1 ■ - D th< b< ttUtiful y;>lky 0jf tji' If :, in >i,' .'f.i' ',f 'I. ■■■>>}. '- ' ' ri mountain ceptihle. ' | kill mountains*) In the western and southern ", t i , ' , < i ; ' f j ther< are no mountain ranges, the - otifll i ral thing, i i tigged and billy. 'iiw principal riveri oi the state are the Hudson, and its i,mm.i|,:.i branch, the Mohawk, the 0en< ee, and the sources of id. Delaware and! u quehanna. The Hud on river has its source in the mountainous district, In the northern part of the state, ui'i gnters New Sforl bay In latitude 40° 12' N., and longitude vi" r ::<»" w. 'lii. bead treami of this river are found at an altitudi "i foui thou and feet, and are the outlets of numerous " ni in, hi . • At. < « I « m r <. Palls, the river has a perpendicular ■ I. ■"■•it .,i iii « v i' 'i Ct li affected by the tide as far as the " id "i ill. Mohawk, one hundred and fifty miles from New Y.ui ii width, 'i this point, varies from three hundred to seven hundred yards and between Harverstraw and its mouth H i often five milei broad Eta entire length, from its source to Its mouth, ii three hundred miles, Justioe oan hardly be done (<• the beauty : ">d grandeur of the scenery of this river. The Hudson highlands, original jin the Sohooley mountains, oom- iii, ii,-. aboul twenty milei from New Sfork, and extend in an unbroken mass along the bank of the river for fifty-five miles, 'rii, v frequently rise fifteen hundred feel above the Hudson, in p. 1 1„ ii.ii, ui n ,i scent, I'm the average bight is not bo great. Oa the owtii, the highlands are known as palisades, which THE MIDDLE STATES. 175 • wall of trap-rook, rising to the hight of from three hundred to five hundred feet Many of the hij arc with the ruin- of fortifications, which wore erected daring the revolutionary war. to prevent British ships Groin • dii g the river. At Newburg, on the left hank of the river, sixty-one miles from New York, was the headquarters oi Washington during a critical period of the war. Mount Taurus, an i levation among the Highlands, on the left hank o\' the river, is forty miles north of New fork. Breakneck Hill is an emi- nence in Putnam county, on the eastern hank of the Hudson, at the northern entrance of the Highlands. It is one thousand one hundred and eighty-seven feet high, and terminates in the promontory of St. Anthony's Nose. Polypus Island, a short distance north, is an elevated body of land, of OVal format inn, near the middle of the river. Its principal tributaries are the Walkill, entering near Kingston, and the Mohawk flowing into it near Troy. In 1820, there were only twenty-two sailing ves- sels on the river. The total number plying on its waters at the present time, is supposed to exceed eight hundred. The Hud- son river steamboats are among the finest, and fastest in the world, being frequently over four hundred feet long, and fur- nished with great luxury. The first successful experiment in steamboat navigation, was made on the Hudson \>y Robert Fulton, in 1807. The Hudson river was discovered by Henry Hudson, an English navigator, in the service of the Dutch Mast India company. It was at first called North river, to distinguish it from the Delaware, which was then culled South river, but it has Subsequently received the name of its discoverer. (See views of the Hudson.) The Mohawk river rises between Lewis and Oneida coun* ties: receives the West Canada creek, its principal affluent, y^ur teen miles ea^t of Utica, and enter- the Hud on after a COUT 6 of one hundred and sixty-five miles. On West Canada creek, fifteen miles uorth-easl of Rome, arc Trenton falls, which end three hundred and twelve feet in -i.x ca cade , 'I falls occur in a narrow and deep ravine, about two milefl long, with perpendicular walls of limestone on either side-, frequently 176 THE MIDDLE STATES. rising to the hight of one hundred and ninety feet. They are less remarkable for the volume of water, than for the wildness and variety of the surrounding scenery. The highest fall has a descent of one hundred feet. (See views of Trenton falls.) At Little falls, the Mohawk has a descent of forty-five feet in three-quarters of a mile, forming the celebrated Mill-dam falls, which affords valuable water power to the village. At Cohoes, about two miles from its confluence with the Hudson, the river has a perpendicular descent of seventy feet. From Rome to its mouth, the river is followed by the Hudson and Erie canal. Rome, Utica, and Little Falls, are the chief towns on its banks. (See views on the Mohawk river.) The Genesee river has its source in the northern part of the state of Pennsylvania, and, after a northerly course of one hund- red and sixty miles, reaches lake Ontario a short distance north of Rochester. Near the source of the river are three falls, sixty, ninety, and one hundred and ten feet high ; and near its mouth there are falls one hundred feet high. At Rochester the river has a perpendicular pitch of ninety-seven feet, giving immense water power to the factories and mills of that city. (See views of Genesee falls.) The chief branches of the Susquehanna in New York, are the Chemung and Chenango ; of the Delaware, Oquago and Popachton. The Ramapo river rises near Newburg in Orange county, and flows in a south and south-east direction, through Bergen and Passaic counties, New Jersey, and discharges its waters into the Atlantic ocean, through the Pompton and Passaic rivers. This river is more remarkable for the beauty and variety of its scenery, than for any manufacturing or commercial worth. It passes through one of the wildest and most picturesque valleys in the state. Near its source a range of hills branches off from the highlands, and follows the river for a considerable distance. Along the Erie railway, which intersects the valley, are a num- ber of beautiful villages, the principal of which, Ramapo and Greenwood, have rolling mills and furnaces. THE MIDDLE STATES. 177 NIAGARA RIVER AND FALLS. The Niagara and St. Lawrence rivers form a portion of the boundary between New York and Canada. In the former occur the world renowned falls and rapids. The river takes its rise in the eastern extremity of Lake Erie, and, after flowing about thirty-four miles, empties into Lake Ontario. It is from half a mile to three miles broad. It is deep, its sides level and its course smooth until it reaches the rapids which extend three miles immediately above the falls, the last half mile of which surges and foams with terrific fury. The cataract of Niagara is not the highest in the world, but it is remarkable for forcing over the precipice a greater amount of water than any other. The highest waterfall in the world is the Yosemite, being over two thousand feet in hight. The falls of Niagara have a descent of only about one hundred and seven- ty feet, " but the immense body of water that rushes in an almost undivided mass down this distance produces upon the beholder the most intense wonder, and furnishes one of the most sublime objects to be found in the world. Such is the mighty scale on which this cataract is constructed that the beholder does not, at first sight, comprehend its full grandeur, but by degrees it seems to increase in size ; its awful front appears to rise higher, its prodigious volume to expand, and its whole aspect to assume a more fearful and sublime physiognomy." The falls are twenty-three miles from Lake Erie. The river is here divided by an island containing about seventy-five acres, called Goat island, the extremity of which is perpendicular and in a line with the precipice over which the water is precipitated. In consequence of a bend in the river the greater volume of water is sent down on the Canada side. On this side is there- fore the greater cataract, which, from its form, has been named Horse Shoe fall, but it no longer bears that name appropriately, as the precipice has been, by the dropping and wearing away of the rock, changed from a circular to a triangular form. On the Canada side of of Goat island stands Terrapin tower, from the 12 178 THE MIDDLE STATES. top of which is afforded a commanding view of the falls and river below. The falls next the United States, and to the left of Goat island, are called the American falls. The process of wearing away goes on gradually. Six hun- dred and seventy thousand tons of water are precipitated over the falls into the gulf every minute. The upper layer of rock is hard, but the strata beneath are soft and easily Avorn away by the continued action of the water, and then the weight of water causes large pieces of the crust to break off from time to time. The rate of retrocession has been estimated to average from one foot to one yard per year. The present rate is probably not equal to what it was when the falls were near Lake Ontario, nor what it will be as they approach Lake Erie, the rock in these places being softer. Geologists think there is abundant proof that the river between the falls and Queenstown flows in a dif- ferent channel than it did formerly. Three miles below the falls the contiguity of the bank is broken by a ravine filled with sand and gravel. This being filled up when the continent was sub- merged, the river was obliged to seek a new route, and has worn away this gorge seven miles long and one hundred and fifty feet deep. Some geologists have thought the erosion was made by other agencies than the river, but the work which is constantly going on there from year to year proves that it has only re- quired time to complete this excavation. It has been supposed, that should the falls ever recede to Lake Erie, a terrible inun- dation of the region eastward would be the result. But De La Beache has proved satisfactorily, that the only effect would be a gradual draining of Lake Erie, with a slight increase of Niagara river. The hight of the Horse Shoe fall is not so great as that of the American, yet it surpasses the latter in beauty. The concussion of air caused by this immense cataract is so great that the win- dows of a hotel, about three hundred yards distant from the falls, are constantly in a tremulous motion. In cold weather the spray freezes on the surrounding buildings, covering them with sheets of ice. On the trees it is accumulated in such masses as to bend them to the ground, and from the margin of the rocks THE MIDDLE STATES. 179 are suspended huge clusters of icicles, sometimes one hundred feet in length, and massive ice mounds are also found which add much to the grandeur of the scene. The street between the Cataract and International hotels leadg to the iron bridge over the rapids to Goat island. The bridge is three hundred and sixty feet long, having four arches of ninety feet span. It is twenty-seven feet wide, has a double carriage way and two foot paths. To the left of Goat island is the Cen- tre fall, which, in contrast with American fall, when seen at a distance, seems like a mere ribbon of water, while its real breadth is two hundred and forty feet. Knowing the actual, and obser- ving the apparent width of this fall, serves to give the spectator a more correct idea of the great size of the whole cataract. This fall, situated at the right of the American, may be seen in the views of the American fall from the Canada side. The Suspension bridge is two miles below the falls, and at the head of the rapids. Between the bridge and the falls the water is perfectly calm and smooth. Below the bridge are two rapids, caused by the narrowing of the bed of the river and the rocks at the bottom. These rapids run at the rate of twenty-five miles per hour, with breakers rising from ten to twenty feet. The Suspension bridge is constructed of wire, and is considered by some as great a curiosity as the falls themselves. It is eight hundred feet long, twenty-four wide and about two hundred and fifty above the river, and is supported by four cable wires nine and a fourth inches in diameter. These cable wires are composed of small wire twisted together. The force of the current under the bridge is so great that a piece of lead, weighing two hundred pounds, dropped from the bridge, was carried down stream the length of the rope without sinking. At the extremity of the first rapids is the whirlpool, caused by an abrupt turn in the river. The rapids below the whirlpool are about one half mile in extent. Table Rock, on the Canada side, formerly afforded a good view of the fall. It derived its name from its projecting over the river in the form of a table. The rock has now fallen. A 180 • THE MIDDLE STATES. number of people were standing upon it just a few minutes before it fell into the abyss below. Near this point is a staircase which must be descended in order to pass under Horse Shoe fall to Termination rock. One writer, who visited this rock, vowed never again to encounter the blinding, hissing spray, the deafen- ing roar of the falling waters, and the dread possibilities of a second visit to that indescribable, awe-inspiring, terribly mag- nificent, infernal region. Lewiston, a flourishing village at the head of navigation on the Niagara, is about half way between the falls and Lake On- tario, and about five miles from the Suspension bridge. About one mile above Lewiston, on the American side, the bluffs diverge off from the river and terminate in what is called Lewiston moun- tain, the top of which affords a grand and imposing view over- looking the village of Lewiston and the valley and river below to its junction with Lake Ontario. (See views of Niagara.) New York abounds with beautiful lakes, among which may be mentioned Cayuga, Oneida, Seneca, Chautauqua, Lake George, and Long Lake. The former three are drained by the Oswego river, which empties into lake Ontario. Cayuga lake is forty miles long, and from one to four miles broad. The water is very deep, and is seldom frozen. A steamboat plies from the northern end of the lake, to Ithaca, at the southern. Oneida lake, eight- een miles long, and from three to six miles wide, passes into the Oswego, through Oneida river. Its waters abound with fish, among which trout, salmon, salmon trout, pike and bass, are conspicuous. Seneca lake is a beautiful sheet of water, forty miles long, and from three to five miles wide, lying between Tompkins and Seneca counties on the east, and Steuben and Yates on the west. Chautauqua lake is a beautiful expanse of water in Chautauqua county, eighteen miles long, and from one to three miles broad, and drained by a branch of the Alleghany river. Its name is derived from an Indian phrase, signifying a "foggy place." Lake George, also called Horicon, is a beautiful expanse of water, between Warren and Washington counties, remarkable THE MIDDLE STATES. 181 for the transparency of its waters, and the grandeur of the sur- rounding scenery. It is thirty-four miles long, and from one to three and a half miles wide. It is four hundred feet deep in some places, and contains over three hundred picturesque is- lands. Few places in the United States can boast of more beau- tiful natural scenery than that which surrounds Lake George. The Narrows, or narrowest portion of the lake, commence thirteen miles from the south-western shore, and are continued from six to eight miles. One mile farther north is an island of about twenty acres, called, from its position, Twelve Mile island. At the entrance of the Narrows, on the western bank of the lake, commence the Black mountains, which reach their greatest hight at an altitude of twenty-two hundred feet. Rogers' Slide, an immense rock, two hundred feet high, received its name from the daring exploit of Major Rogers, who, during the French and Indian war, being closely pursued by the Indians, slid down the steep declivity, and reached the ice below without injury. In the vicinity of the lake is the monument erected to the memory of Colonel Ephraim Williams, who fell in the French war, on the 8th of September, 1755. On the battle ground, near the monument, is a collection of water called Bloody Pond. (See views of Lake George.) Fort Ticonderoga, near the mouth of the lake, is one hundred feet above the water level. It is surrounded by water upon three sides, and upon' a greater portion of the fourth by a deep morass. The ruins of this fort are yet quite picturesque. (See views of Fort Ticonderoga.) Several important islands are found off the coast of New York, the principal of which are Long, Staten, and Manhattan islands. Long Island, separated from New York by a strait half a mile wide, is one hundred and fifteen miles long and fifteen miles broad. The soil is exceedingly rich, and extensively cultivated. The Long Island railroad extends through the centre of the island from Brooklyn to Greenport. Staten Island, in New York bay, is fifteen miles long and from three to eight miles broad, and constitutes the county of Richmond. Richmond hill is a term applied to a beautiful elevation in the northern portion 182 THE MIDDLE STATES. of the island, which has an elevation of over three hundred feet. Manhattan Island is fifteen miles long and from one to three miles wide, and is the site of New York city. New York presents a great variety of climate. The severity of the winters and the intense heat of the summers is greatly modified in the western and south-eastern portions of the state by the vicinity to the lakes and the sea coast. In the north the winters are long and severe, and the summers, though short, are excessively hot. New York, as a general thing, is very fertile. Among the mountains and hills there are sterile districts, but on the plains in the western portion of the state, and in the river valleys, the soil is exceedingly rich, and in every way adapted to agriculture. The chief products are oats, Irish potatoes, grass seeds, fruits, hay, hops, maple sugar, butter, cheese, honey, Indian corn, wheat, barley, beans, flax, buckwheat, sweet pota- toes, and tobacco. According to the agricultural statistics of 1860, the amount of wheat produced in that year was eight mil- lions six hundred and eighty-one thousand and one hundred bushels ; amount of corn, twenty millions sixty-one thousand and forty-eight bushels ; amount of wool, nine millions four hundred and fifty-four thousand four hundred and seventy-three pounds. The principal forest trees are oak, pine, tamarack, spruce, hem- lock, larch, walnut, fir, chestnut, beech, butternut, elm, ash, and sugar maple. The manufactures of New York are very important. Accord- ing to the census of 1860, the state contained twenty-two thou- sand six hundred and twenty-four manufacturing establishments, with a capital of one hundred and seventy-five millions four hun- dred and forty-nine thousand two hundred and six dollars, and an annual income of three hundred and seventy-nine millions six hundred and twenty-three thousand five hundred and sixty dol- lars. In commercial wealth New York takes the lead among all the United States. According to the commercial statistics of the year ending June 30, 1861, her exports amounted to one hundred and fifty-eight millions six hundred and six thousand five hundred and eighteen dollars ; imports, two hundred and THE MIDDLE STATES. 183 thirty-seven millions four hundred and two thousand seven hun- dred and twenty-six dollars. Albany is the capital of the state, and New York is the chief city. The other principal cities are Brooklyn, Buffalo, Roches- ter, Troy, Syracuse, Utica, Oswego, Kingston, Newburg, and Elmira. ALBANY, The capital of the state, and seat of justice of Albany county, is finely situated on the western bank of the Hudson, one hun- dred and forty-five miles north of New York, and one hundred and sixty-four miles north-west of Boston. The site of the city, from being low and level on the shore, becomes rugged and un- even as you advance from the river. State street, running from the capitol to the river, is the most important promenade in the city. Broadway, intersecting the former thoroughfare at right angles, contains the greater portion of the business buildings. The most important public buildings are the capitol, city hall, and state hall. The former is an imposing stone edifice with marble columns, one hundred and fifteen feet long, ninety feet wide, and fifty feet high, surmounted by a lofty dome, support- ing a wooden statue of the goddess Themis, " with a sword in her right hand and a balance in her left." The city hall, sur- mounted by an elegant dome, and state hall, are beautiful marble buildings, on the eastern side of the capitol grounds. Connected with the capitol is the state library, a substantial brick edifice, containing upwards of seventy-five thousand volumes. The other important libraries are the Young Men's association, containing ten thousand, and the Albany institute having six thousand volumes. The educational establishments of Albany are a credit to the city. The most important of these are the university, founded in 1852, and the Albany academy, situated on the eastern side of the capitol grounds, and attended by over four hundred pupils. The state normal school, founded in 1844, has a library of one thousand volumes. 184 THE MIDDLE STATES. Albany is one of the greatest lumber markets in the world. In 1863, the value of the lumber received in the city amounted to seven millions of dollars. Albany is the centre of a large number of railroads, by means of which an uninterrupted line of communication is established with all important cities in the state. The city contains fifty- seven churches, seventeen newspaper offices, an excellent system of public schools, belonging to which are libraries containing in all eight thousand volumes, and fifteen banks. Population in 1860, 62,367. NEW YORK, The great metropolis of the United States, and, in connection with the surrounding cities, which might properly be regarded as suburbs, the third city in importance in the civilized world, is situated on Manhattan island, in latitude 40° 42' 43" N., and longitude 74° 3" W. Its site is formed by the confluence of the East with the Hudson river, and is separated from the main- land by the Harlem river and Spuyten Duyvel creek. The city also comprises several adjacent islands, containing fortifications and public institutions. The most densely populated portion of the city occupies about four miles of the southern part of the island. In the New York harbor are twelve forts, mounting fifteen hundred guns. The Narrows, at the entrance of the bay, are one mile wide, and are defended by Fort Lafayette, in the water, two hundred yards from the shore, and Fort Hamilton, on Long Island. The city of New York is very compactly built, and is regu- larly laid off into one hundred and forty-one thousand four hund- red and eighty-six lots. Broadway, the principal street, is four miles long and five rods wide. It commences at the Battery, in the south-western portion of the island, and extends, in a north- easterly direction, to Grace church, where it bends to the north- west, and passes through the newer portions of the city. Of the many streets which cross Broadway at right angles, Chatham street is the most important. THE MIDDLE STATES. 185 Fifth avenue, the most fashionable promenade of the city, is lined with massive hotels, stores, and public buildings, many of which are built of marble, and contains, also, elegant private residences and imposing churches. Rialto and Lombard streets contain insurance and brokers' offices and banking houses, and is the great financial district of the United States. Wall street, running east from Broadway, is lined with a compact mass of buildings, of marble, granite and sand-stone construction, and contains the merchants' exchange and the old custom house. One of the most prominent features of New York, is Central Park, in the northern portion of the city. It is laid out in the finest style of landscape gardening, and has cost the city over fifteen millions of dollars. The park is from one to two miles long, and nearly three-fourths of a mile wide. It formerly cov- ered an area of about seven hundred and fifty acres, but a small portion of this space is now occupied by the city. For a trav- eler visiting New York, a more pleasing and attractive spot could not be found, than this park. Its uneven surface, over which are scattered masses of rock ; its broad and handsome carriage roads, and winding gravel walks ; its labyrinth of orna- mental trees, and profusion of flowers, all add to the beauty of the place, and unite to render it one of the most pleasing and delightful retreats in existence. Superior architectural and en- gineering faculty have been employed in the construction of various buildings, bridges, etc. Scattered over the grounds are artificial sheets of water, containing beautiful fountains, and crossed by rustic bridges. During the winter, the park is a favorite resort for a multitude of skaters, of both sexes. A substantial stone wall, six feet high, has recently been built around the park. (See views of Central Park.) The City Hall Park is a triangular enclosure of eleven acres, beautifully adorned with shade trees, and containing the city hall and other public buildings. Castle Garden, near the Bat- tery, was formerly used as a place of public exhibitions, concerts and fairs. Prominent among the public buildings, is the city hall, two hundred and sixteen feet long, one hundred and five feet wide, 186 THE MIDDLE STATES. and sixty-five feet high. The sides and south front are of mar- ble, and the north front is of red sand-stone. Annual art exhi- bitions are given by the National Academy of Design, a handsome edifice on the corner of Fourth avenue and Twenty-third street. The United States Treasury, formerly the custom-house, is on the corner of Wall and Nassau streets, and occupies the site of the old federal hall, from the street gallery of which Washington delivered his first inaugural address, and received the oath of office, which was administered by Chancellor Livingston. The building is two hundred feet long, ninety feet wide, and eighty feet high. At each end is a portico, supported by eight immense pillars. Edwin Booth's theatre is a handsome marble building, recently erected on Twenty-third street, between Fifth and Sixth avenues. The Bible house is a six story brick building, two hundred and thirty-two feet long, and seventy-seven feet wide, on the corner of Eighth street and Fourth avenue. The city hospital is an immense building, of grey-stone construction, on Broadway, one hundred and twenty-four feet long, fifty feet wide, and three stories high, with accommodations for two hun- dred patients. New York contains numerous academies and schools, of both public and private character. The New York University, found- ed in 1831, is a beautiful white marble edifice, built in gothic style, on Washington square. It is a four story building, one hundred and eighty feet long, and one hundred feet wide. Con- nected with the institution are apartments, devoted to law and medicine. The General Theological Seminary, established in 1817, comprises two stone buildings, each one hundred and ten by fifty feet, situated on West Twentieth street. The Free Academy is a handsome gothic brick structure, founded in 1848, and located on the corner of East Twenty-third street and Lex- ington avenue. The entire cost of the building exceeded one hundred and fifty-two thousand dollars. Columbia College, known as King's College before the revolution, and the oldest school in the city, was founded in 1754. Rutger's Female In- stitute is a fine structure, on the corner of Fifth avenue and THE MIDDLE STATES. 187 Forty-second street, established in 1838. The New York Acad- emy of Music, or Opera House, on the corner of Fourteenth street and Irving place, contains seats for four thousand seven hundred persons. The Cooper Institute, directly opposite the Bible house, is a present to the city from Mr. Peter Cooper, who appropriated nearly three hundred thousand dollars for its es- tablishment. It is one hundred and ninety-three feet long, one hundred and forty-three feet wide, five stories high, and has a free reading room, picture gallery, art schools, etc. The largest library in the city is the Astor, founded by John Jacob Astor, who, at his death, bequeathed four hundred thous- and dollars for that purpose. The Mercantile library, founded in 1820, and recently removed to the Astor place, contains sixty thousand volumes, and a large reading room. One of the largest and most imposing buildings in New York is Stewart's store, an elegant white marble building, occupying a whole block, and being 152 feet on Broadway. Distributed throughout the build- ing are nearly two thousand panes of glass, fifteen of which, in the lower story, fronting on Broadway, are eleven by seven feet. In the evening, the various departments of the store are lighted up by four hundred gas-burners. New York contains a large number of elegant and fashionable hotels. The most important of these are the Fifth avenue, Hoffman house, Astor house, St. James, and La Farge house. The former two are opposite Madison square, six stories high, and constructed of pure white marble. The Astor house is a substantial building on Broadway, two hundred and one feet long, one hundred and eighty-five feet wide, and six stories high. It is built of Quincy granite, and contains three hundred and twenty-six chambers. In 1865, New York had three hundred and eleven churches, of which Trinity, Grace, Calvary, Holy Communion, and St. Paul's were the most conspicuous. Trinity church, built of red sandstone, is on the corner of Broadway and Wall street. It is gothic style, one hundred and eighty-nine feet long, eighty-four feet wide, and has the highest spire in the United States. The tower contains a rich chime of bells, and, including the spire, is 188 THE MIDDLE STATES. two hundred and sixty-four feet high. Near where Broadway bends to the north-west, stands Grace church, a handsome white marble edifice, with a tower and spire, surmounted by a cross. St. Paul's church is a handsome structure, immediately to the right of the Astor house, on Broadway, having a lofty spire rising from the rear end of the building. Union square, on the corner of Broadway and Fourteenth street, is an oval inclosure, containing a life-like and imposing equestrian statue of Washington. The Worth monument, erected in honor of General Worth, an able oflicer of the Mexican war, who died in Texas, in May, 1849, is in Madison square, a trun- cated triangular space, directly opposite the Hoffman house. The streets of New York are traversed by twenty-four lines of omnibuses and horse railways, five of which carried in one year over thirty-two millions of passengers. A river of pure soft water is received in the city by the Croton aqueduct. This water is conveyed from the Croton river, forty miles distant, through sixteen tunnels, and received in reservoirs of sufficient magnitude to hold conjointly, one billion and two hundred millions of gallons. New York employs sixteen hundred police, with salaries varying from eight hundred to five thousand dollars annually. A volunteer fire department of four thousand two hundred and twenty-seven members, mans fifty steam and hand engines, fifty-six hose carts, and seventeen hooks and ladder trucks. New York is extensively engaged in both foreign and domestic commerce. Her matchless harbor is formed by the upper bay, which, with its two arms, nearly surrounds the city. New York is connected with Canada and the great lakes, by the Hudson river and the Erie Canal; with the New England states, by Long Island Sound ; has easy access to the Atlantic ocean, by which it carries on a trade with nearly every maritime nation on the earth. Elegant steamboats of great magnitude and speed, form connections with the most important cities in the world. The harbor is literally crowded with masts, bearing aloft flags of every maritime nation on the globe. New York has twenty- five ship-yards and manufactories of steam engines, machinery, THE MIDDLE STATES. 189 clothing, carriages and pianoforte factories, and contains twelve large book-publishing establishments. In 1790, the population of New York was 23,831 ; in 1860, 813,669. (See views of New York.) BROOKLYN. Brooklyn, a city at the western end of Long Island, and the capitol of King's county, is, next to New York and Philadelphia, the largest city in the United States. It is separated from New York by the East river, and is connected with that city by numerous steam ferries, which cross every few minutes during the day, and every half-hour during the night. Brooklyn is regularly laid off, the streets being about sixty feet wide, and crossing each other at right angles. Fulton, the most important exception of the general directness of the streets, is the principal thoroughfare of the city. The rapid growth of Brooklyn is owing partially to the healthiness of the climate, but chiefly to its proximity to the great metropolis. The most beautiful private residences are erected by wealthy gentlemen, and business men of New York. The principal public buildings are the city hall, court-house, and academy of music. The city hall, occupying a triangular space on Fulton street, is a three story white marble edifice, one hundred and sixty-two feet long, by one hundred and two feet wide, and surmounted by a dome seventy-five feet high. The court-house, built in Corinthian style, also on Fulton street, was erected at a cost of five hundred and forty thousand dollars. Brooklyn contains one hundred and twenty-one churches, the finest of which are the Holy Trinity, Church of the Puritans, Grace church, Church of the Restoration, and Plymouth church. The Church of the Holy Trinity is a gothic brown stone structure which cost nearly one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The Church of the Puritans, Grace church, and Church of the Restoration, are also built in gothic style, the former of gray- stone, and the latter of brown-stone. In the south-eastern portion of the city, on the southern side of Wallabout bay, is the national navy-yard, covering forty 190 THE MIDDLE STATES. acres of ground, and enclosed by a high stone wall. "Within the yard are tAvo ship-houses, where are built torpedo boats, war sloops, and other vessels useful in naval warfare. The navy- yard also contains workshops, officers' quarters, and a vast amount of military stores. (See views of Brooklyn navy-yard.) Brooklyn has several flourishing banks, various literary insti- tutions, and numerous seminaries of education — an ample share, in short, of all that characterizes a wealthy, populous, and intelligent community. Population in 1865, 350,000. (See views of Brooklyn.) GREENWOOD CEMETERY. One of the most attractive features of Brooklyn, is Green- wood Cemetery, three miles south-east of Fulton ferry, on Gowanus hights. In beauty of location and adornments of art, Greenwood has no rival. A more beautiful spot for the great necropolis of New York, could not have been easily selected. From its verdant and breezy hills, a glowing and extensive pros- pect of the surrounding country is gained. A good view is obtained of Long Island, Staten Island, the matchless harbor of New York, beyond which rise the lofty edifices, domes and church spires of the metropolis. The grounds, beautifully laid off, are traversed by broad and handsome carriage-ways and multitudes of avenues, shady lanes, and winding gravel walks, leading to artificial lakes and ponds. The avenues are variously denominated, Alder, Aspen, Baltic, Bayside, Birch, Central, Cypress, Dale, Erlgewood, Elm, etc. The length of the various avenues, taken conjointly, and excluding the numerous foot- paths, is sixteen miles. Among the hills, valleys, ridges, and waters, occur the following characteristic and beautiful names : Alpine Hill, Arbor Water, Battle Hill, Bayside Dell, Cedar Dell, Cherry Hill, Crescent Water, Evergreen Ridge, Maple Ridge, Fountain Hill, Ocean Bluff, Grassy Hill, Edge Hill, etc. Greenwood Cemetery has been a chartered institution for about thirty-one years. John Hanna, who died in September, 1840, was the first person interred in its limits. In 1844, THE MIDDLE STATES. 191 DeWitt Clinton, once governor of New York, and whose auto- graph is carved in the soil of that state, from the Hudson river to Lake Erie, was buried in Greenwood. The first bronze cast- ing America ever produced, stands upon his tomb in Bayside Dell. (See view.) The figure is an imposing representation of the statesman, and is the Avork of the same skillful hand that produced the equestrian statue of Washington in Union Square. Other noted men, who repose in Greenwood, are James K. Pauld- ing, author of Dutchman s Fireside, and other works of prose and poetry, which will keep his name forever fresh in the mem- ory of the people ; Dr. Samuel L. Mitchell, a distinguished United States senator ; Dr. Valentine Mott, the celebrated sur- geon ; and James Kent, the celebrated chancellor and writer of the well-known commentaries on American law. An Alabamian named Dixon H. Lewis, after a ramble in Greenwood, expressed his desire to be buried there. He was styled the " stout mem- ber" at congress, and actually required two seats in the halls of that house for his accommodation. Generals 0. M. Mitchell and George C. Strong, of the union, and General Garnet, of the rebel army, are among the noted soldiers that repose in Greenwood. In the poets' corner, are the remains of " Poor McDonald Clarke," a poetical writer of eccentric fancies, who flourished about forty years ago. The neat obelisk, which marks his grave, is surrounded by a circular iron railing. A fine like- ness of Clarke is sculptured on the face of the monument, and below is the epitaph, written by himself: " Sacred to the mem- ory of Poor McDonald Clarke." The monument adjoining Clarke's, was erected to the memory of Dohum-mee, a young Indian princess of the Sac tribe, who died while in New York, whither she had come with a delegation of Sacs and Iowas. A plain white monument marks her grave, on which the modest legend, "Mrs. Eliza Gilbert, died January 17, 1861," would fail to stimulate curiosity, or awaken interest. Among the costly monuments of Greenwood, the one erected to the memory of Charlotte Canda, is really the most important. (See view.) Her death occurred on the evening of her sev- enteenth birthday, and was occasioned by a fall from her 192 THE MIDDLE STATES. carriage, as she was returning from a party. The fortune which the bereaved father had intended as her dowry, was expended on her tomb. Under the spire-flanked arch, is a picture of the young girl, as she was dressed on the evening of the accident. An oblong space in front of the statue, is surmounted by a bal- ustrade, which forms an ornate porch to the monument. A monumental slab, in the middle of this space, has at its head an urn, with books and instruments of music and drawing. Upon the esplanade fronting the statue, are two guardian angels gazing upon her. Another handsome monument is the one recently erected by James Brown, in memory of several members of his family who perished on board the ill-fated vessel, the Arctic. It is con- structed of Italian marble and Aberdeen granite, is forty-six feet high, and has four columns, surmounted with gables, upon which are crockets, wrought in imitation of white lilies and twining ivy. Upon the different sides of the monument are inscribed appro- priate texts of scripture, and upon the groining of the arches are four angels looking down on the sinking steamer, which is most admirably represented in marble. Groups of coral, sea- weed, and shells, are carved on the moulding of the pedestal, and the entire monument, standing at the top of " the Tower," near Landscape avenue, is delicately designed and executed. The Pilot's monument, which stands on Battle hill, is a lofty and slender shaft, erected to the memory of a gallant seaman. The Firemen's monument, on Summit avenue, is a pyramidal marble column, surmounted by a well executed figure of a fire- man. The Sea Captain's monument, and monument of Henry Buggies, and the tombs of Niblo, W. W. Grosbeck, and many others, also attract general attention. A chapel, for the purpose of conducting the funeral services of foreigners and strangers, has been established in the cemetery. After turning a certain corner of the city, the procession is observable, when the tolling of the chapel bell announces its approach. THE MIDDLE STATES. 193 BUFFALO, The third city in importance of New York, and seat of justice of Erie county, is at the eastern end of Lake Erie, at the point where it merges into the Niagara river, covering about the same space on the river as on the lake. It is three hundred miles west of Albany, four hundred miles north-west of New York, and five hundred and thirty-eight miles north-east of Chicago, and is the terminus of the New York and Erie and New York Central railroads, and the Hudson and Erie canal. The site of the city, bordering on the lake and river, is low and level, but before reaching the western suburbs the ground rises to a hight of sixty feet. Niagara street, the most important thoroughfare, is four miles long, and extends nearly across the city from north to south. In the western section of the city the streets are bor- dered with magnificent shade trees, frequently of great magni- tude, and contain many elegant and costly private residences. Among the finest buildings may be mentioned the city hall, four large markets, two court houses, and the city penitentiary. The literary and educational institutions of Buffalo are impor- tant. The Germans' Young Men's association, contains a free reading room, and a library of over two thousand volumes. In the Young Men's association buildings, costing about one hun- dred and forty thousand dollars, is a well selected library of twelve thousand volumes. The Buffalo female academy, on Del- aware street, is one of the finest institutions of the kind in the state. Buffalo is extensively engaged in commerce. The total trade for the year 1863, amounted to two hundred and fifty-six mil- lions two hundred and fourteen thousand six hundred and four- teen dollars. The city has seventy churches, eighteen news- paper publications, a school for colored children, twenty-five district schools, one high school, nine banks, seventy-five insur- ance offices, twenty iron manufactories, extensively engaged in the manufacture of steam boilers and engines, nails, car-axles, anchors, etc., and a rolling mill, in which are nine heating and sixteen puddling furnaces. 13 194 THE MIDDLE STATES. The entire length of the streets in Buffalo is two hundred and ninety-six miles, fifty-three miles of which were paved at a cost of one million five hundred and forty-one thousand six hundred and ninety-three dollars. Population in 1860, 81,131. ROCHESTER, One of the most important cities of New York, and seat of justice of Monroe county, is on the Genesee river, about seven miles from the point where that stream pours its waters into Lake Ontario. It is on the route of the New York Central railroad and Erie canal, the latter of which crosses the Genesee, at this place, by a freestone aqueduct of nine arches, each fifty feet span, and constructed at a cost of six hundred thousand dollars. The city is two hundred and thirty miles west by north of Albany, and sixty-eight miles north-east of Buffalo. It occu- pies a plain of about five thousand five hundred acres, which is intersected by well paved streets from sixty to eighty feet wide. Marble, stone, and brick are the chief building materials. The most important public buildings are the Arcade, city hall, and court house, the two latter of which were constructed at a cost of about seventy-five thousand dollars each. Among the libraries may be mentioned the Rochester athenaeum, having twelve thousand, and the free library ten thousand volumes. The Rochester university is a brown stone edifice, completed in 1859. The building cost two hundred thousand dollars, and is attended by upwards of one hundred and seventy-five students. The chief hotels are Bracket, Waverly, National, and Congress Hall. The Genesee river, at Rochester, has a descent, in between two and three miles, of two hundred and twenty-six feet, thus establishing that immense hydraulic power to which the city owes its manufacturing prosperity. Rochester has manufactories of flour, paper, cotton, woollen, machinery, locomotives, etc. The city has forty-five churches, fifteen newspaper offices, three col- legiate institutes, a free academy, two commercial colleges, eigh- teen public schools, several ladies' seminaries, two orphan asy- lums, an industrial school, an insane asylum, and a city hospital. THE MIDDLE STATES. 195 It contains, also, twenty- two mills, which produce, on an average, seven thousand three hundred and twenty barrels of flour per day. The Rochester gas company has twenty-nine miles of gas pipe distributed over the city in various directions, which keeps in lighting order upwards of one thousand public lamps. Population in 1865, 60,000. (See views at Rochester.) TROY, A city of New York, and seat of justice of Rensselaer county, is at the head of steamboat navigation on the Hudson, on both sides of the river, one hundred and fifty-one miles above New York. The site of the city is a fertile and undulating plain, about three and one half miles long and one and one half miles wide. Mounts Olympus and Ida, the former in the northern and the latter in the southern suburbs of East Troy, are the only important elevations in the city. River street, the most import- ant thoroughfare, is lined with massive warehouses and fine hotels, and follows the course of the river through nearly the entire length of the city. Prominent among the public buildings is the court house, a fine marble building of the Doric order. Among the schools may be mentioned the Troy female seminary, academy, and the Renssalaer institute, the former attended by from two hundred and seventy to three hundred pupils, and all containing valuable libraries. The most important churches are St. John's, of brown sandstone, St. Paul's, of blue limestone, and the Presbyterian of brick, stuccoed in imitation of granite. Among the hotels, the Troy house, Mansion house, Washington hall, Charles house, and Union hall, are the most important. The commerce of Troy is important. Large steamboats ascend the river as far as this city, where they receive cargoes brought hither by the Hudson and Erie and the Champlain canals. Troy is connected with Philadelphia by a line of propellers and barges, and with Boston by a line of sailing packets. The city contains thirty churches, eight newspaper publications, fifteen banks, a 196 THE MIDDLE STATES. large number of flour and paper mills, and cotton, woollen, and leather factories, and malleable iron works. Population in 1860, 39,235. SYKACUSE, A thriving city of New York, and seat of justice of Onondaga county, eighty miles west of Albany, and thirty-five miles south- east of Oswego, is at the extreme southern end of a small lake bearing the same name as the county in which it is situated. It is the terminus of the Syracuse and Oswego, and Syracuse and Binghampton railroads, and is on the route of the New York Central railroad. The ground on which the city is built is gen- erally level, and is intersected by broad, and, with but few excep- tions, regular streets. The chief building materials are brick and stone. The most important buildings are the hotels and churches. Among the former may be mentioned the Syracuse house, Voor- hees house, and Globe hotel. There are twenty-three churches, nineteen of which are Protestant, and four Roman Catholic. The city contains two public halls of sufficient capacity to accom- modate upwards of six thousand persons. It has also twelve large public schools, twelve newspaper offices, and ten banks. Syracuse has the greatest salt works in the United States. The springs from which the salt is produced are owned by the state. Those engaged in its manufacture receive a lease from the state government, by which they are bound to pay a duty of one cent on every bushel produced, and to use the water for no other than saline purposes. The tax, formerly twelve and a half cents per bushel, was afterward reduced to six, and finally to the present rate. Syracuse has a number of flour mills and manu- factories of machinery, steam engines, and leather. Population in 1865, 33,000. UTICA, A finely built and prosperous city of Oneida county, on the New York Central railroad, and on both sides of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal, ninety-five miles west of Albany, and THE MIDDLE STATES. 107 three hundred and eighty-three miles north by east of Washing- ton. It is connected with the St. Lawrence river by the Black river railroad, and with Binghampton by the Chenango canal. The ground on which the city is built is the site of old Fort Schuyler, and is level with a single exception on the northern side of the river. Genesee street, the principal thoroughfare, contains the city hall, a handsome Milwaukee brick building, other public build- ings, and a large number of mercantile houses. The principal hotels are the National house, Central house, and Bragg's hotel. The city contains twenty-six churches, two fine academies, and two public libraries. Utica is the seat of the state lunatic asy- lum, occupying a number of stone buildings in the western part of the city. Of the five hundred and fourteen patients in this institution in 1863, two hundred and sixty-two were males, and two hundred and fifty-two females. The city, also, contains eight newspaper publications, besides a number of periodicals, and is extensively engaged in the manufacture of railway car- riages, and organs. Population in 1860, 22,529. OSWEGO, An important city of New York, and semi-capital of Oswego county, is on the south-eastern shore of Lake Ontario, and is the most important city of the United States on that body. The city is on both sides of the Oswego river, which here enters the lake. It is thirty-five miles north-east of Syracuse, and one hundred and seventy miles west by north of Albany, and is the northern terminus of the Syracuse and Oswego railroad. The city is divided into two nearly equal parts by the river, which is crossed by several substantial bridges. Oswego is beautifully laid off, in a rich and fertile district, and is intersected by streets frequently one hundred feet wide, and crossing each other at right angles. The principal build- ings are the city hall, custom house, and court house. The city contains ten churches, two public libraries, five newspaper pub- lications, a fine system of free schools, and five banks. 198 THE MIDDLE STATES. The commerce of Oswego is rapidly increasing. The harbor, formed by the mouth of the river, is one of the finest in the state. A pier one thousand two hundred and fifty-nine feet long has been built on the western bank of the river, and one two hun- dred feet long on the eastern, and other improvements made at the expense of the United States government. Population of the city in 1860, 16,816. KINGSTON Is a city and seat of justice of Ulster county, situated on the western bank of the Hudson river, at the terminus of the Dela- ware and Hudson canal, fifty-five miles south of Albany, and ninety miles north of New York. The city is connected with Albany and New York by steamboats, and with the Hudson river railroad by a steam ferry. It contains eight churches, four banks, four newspaper offices, an excellent academy, and has a large commerce in coal, stone, ice, lime, and cement. Pop- ulation in 1860, 7,000. NEWBURG, A finely built city and semi-capital of Orange county, is beau- tifully situated among the highlands, on the western bank of the Hudson river, eighty-four miles south of Albany, and sixty-one miles north of New York. The ground on which the city is built has a continual rise as it recedes from the river, and in the outskirts of the city is three hundred feet high. Fishkill, directly opposite Newburg, is connected with the latter city by a steam ferry. By means of a branch railroad to Chester, rail- way communication is established between Newburg and all im- portant cities on the Erie railway. Newburg has a large num- ber of elegant villas, and beautiful parks and gardens. It con- tains a number of foundries, tanneries, plaster mills, and manu- factories of cotton, wool, machinery, etc. Large quantities of grain, flour, and products of the dairy are exported. Newburg contains a court house, twenty-three churches, four newspaper offices, six banks, and numerous schools and acade- mies. Railway carriages and steam engines are extensively manufactured. It has forty-one thousand tons of shipping, and carries on a large lumber trade. Population in 1860, 15,196. THE MIDDLE STATES. 199 YONKERS Is a beautiful town on the eastern bank of the Hudson river, seventeen miles north of New York. The Hudson river railroad passes through the town, which has also a number of steamboats, establishing water communication with New York. It has ten churches, several banks, four newspaper offices, and a number of manufactories, mills, and foundries. It also contains male and female schools, and academies. Yonkers is a favorite summer resort for wealthy citizens of New York and Brooklyn, who have established in and around the town a number of splendid residences. Population in 1860, 11,848. (See views of Yonkers.) WEST POINT. West Point, the seat of the United States Military Academy, is on the western bank of the Hudson river, in Cornwall town- ship, Orange county, fifty-two miles north of New York. The site of the academy is an elevated and nearly circular plain, from one hundred and seventy to one hundred and ninety feet high, and about one mile in circuit. This national military seat was established in 1802, by forty cadet artillerists and ten engi- neers, and is supported by the government. The tuition is free — each pupil connected with the institution, however, being obliged to serve the government eight years. The president is allowed to send ten cadets to the academy, and each member of congress, one ; the latter from the districts which they represent. No person under sixteen or above twenty-one years of age, is allowed to enter. In 1808, six years after the academy was founded, the school numbered one hundred and fifty-six ; in 1812, two hundred and fifty, the latter being the largest num- ber allowed in the academy at one time. The course of study embraces four years : (1) Mathematics, engineering, fencing, and bayonet exercises ; (2) French, mathematics, fencing, tac- tics of infantry, cavalry and artillery ; (3) natural philosophy, chemistry, drawing and riding; (4) military and civil engineer- ing, mineralogy, geology, chemistry, law, literature, practical military engineering, tactics. 200 THE MIDDLE STATES. West Point is picturesquely situated among the Highlands, on the summits of which are ruins of forts, where occurred many important battles between the Americans and British, during the revolutionary war. On one of these elevations, six hundred feet high, is old Fort Putnam, " surrounded on three sides by deep ravines and steep descents." Fortresses in the vicinity of "West Point were captured by the British in 1777, but aban- doned after the surrender of Burgoyne. Stronger forts were then constructed by the Americans, which the traitor, Arnold, bargained to betray — a plot foiled by the arrest of Major Andre. (See views at West Point.) ELMIRA Is a city of Chemung county, on the northern side of the Che- mung river, on the route of the Erie railroad, two hundred and seventy-seven miles west by north of New York. It is connect- ed by railroad with Philadelphia, Baltimore and Harrisburg, on the south, and is the southern terminus of the Rochester and Elmira railroad, which connects the Erie with the northern tier of the Central railroad. It is on the route of the Erie railroad, which crosses the Chemung at this place, and is connected with Seneca lake by the Chemung canal. The city contains a court- house, a fine ladies' college, fifteen churches, four newspaper publications, five hotels, six banks, a piano manufactory, and a number of boot manufactories. Population, in 1865, 14,000. (See views at Elmira.) LITTLE FALLS, A thriving town of Herkimer county, is picturesquely situated in a narrow and romantic valley, on both sides of the Mohawk river, seventy-five miles north-west of Albany, and two hundred and fifty miles in the same direction from New York. The falls of the Mohawk at this place afford abundant water-power to the foundries and mills on its banks. " The Erie canal here passes, by a deep cut in the solid rock, through a picturesque defile, two miles in extent." (See views of Erie canal.) The elevations on either side of the canal frequently reach a great hight, and greatly resemble the Palisades of the Hudson. A THE MIDDLE STATES. 201 mass of rugged rock, in the outskirts of the town, is called Pro- file Rock. (See view of Profile Rock.) The town has eight churches, two banks, and four newspaper offices. Population, 5,989. SARATOGA SPRINGS Is a fashionable watering place and summer resort in Sara- toga county, in the eastern part of New York, thirty-eight miles north of Albany, and one hundred and sixty-seven miles in the same direction from New York. " Saratoga owes its celebrity to its mineral springs, the surrounding scenery possessing few, if any, extraordinary attractions." A single street, lined with massive hotels, stores and elegant private residences, constitutes the chief portion of the town. There are about twenty-three springs, variously impregnated with iron, iodine, soda, magnesia, etc., and all highly charged with carbonic acid. Empire and Iodine springs have been but recently discovered. Congress, the most important of the springs at the present time, was dis- covered as early as 1792. The waters of High Rock spring, discharged through a conical limestone rock, about five feet high, are " strongly charged with carbonic acid gas." These waters are prescribed in cases of chronic dyspepsia, diseases of the liver, etc. Saratoga Springs is annually visited by from thirty thousand to forty thousand pleasure-seekers and invalids, who receive accommodations at a number of large and fashionable hotels. Congress Hall, in the centre of a finely ornamented enclosure, has a commodious piazza, across the entire front of the building. Union Hall, though equaling the others in splen- dor and elegance, is in a more retired spot. There are also in the town several concert halls and opera houses, much frequent- ed by the fashionable circle. Population of the town in 1860, 7,496. (See views of Saratoga Springs.) OWEGO. Owego is a finely built and prosperous town of Tioga county, New York, at the confluence of the Owego creek with the north branch of the Susquehanna river. The Owego creek is crossed at this place by the New York and Erie railway, about two 202 THE MIDDLE STATES. hundred and forty miles from New York. The Cayuga and Susquehanna railroad connects Owego with Ithaca. The town contains eight churches, three newspaper offices, a large number of stores, three banks, male and female academies, and numer- ous flour, plaster, cotton and woolen mills. Owego is extensively engaged in the lumber trade. Incorporated as a town in 1827 ; population, 5,000. (See views of Owego.) STAPLETON EIGHTS, A thriving town of Richmond county, New York, picturesque- ly situated among the hights, on the north-eastern side of Staten Island. It is seven miles south-west of New York, and five miles in the same direction from Brooklyn. It contains several churches, and some elegant private residences. It is, also, the seat of a Seamen's Retreat, an immense three story building, two hundred feet long, and fifty feet wide, erected at a cost of one hundred thousand dollars. (See view of Stapleton Hights.) PORT JERVIS, A thriving town of Orange county, New York, on the Hudson and Delaware canal and the Erie railroad, ninety-eight miles north-west of New York. It has five churches, two banks, and one engine house. Port Jervis is in a wild and picturesque re- gion, surrounded by lofty elevations, the principal of which, Kittatinny mountain, changes the course of the Delaware from a south-westerly to a south-easterly direction. Population, about 4,000. (See views at Port Jervis.) In 1860, New York had two thousand seven hundred and one miles of railroad, constructed at a cost of one hundred and thirty-one millions three hundred and twenty thousand five hun- dred and forty-two dollars. The Hudson and Erie canal, com- menced in 1817, and completed in 1825, is three hundred and sixty-four miles long, and cost the state about seven millions of dollars. In regard to education, New York holds a prominent position among the United States. In 1860, the state contained seventeen colleges, attended by two thousand nine hundred and seventy students. The Normal School, at Albany, is attended THE MIDDLE STATES. 203 by about two hundred and seventy-five students annually. The People's College, at Havana, Schuyler county, has property valued at one hundred thousand dollars, and is attended by for- ty-five students. At Ithaca, is the Cornell University, named in honor of Hon. E. Cornell, who donated five hundred thous- and dollars to found the school, and the increase of a million acres of land for its support. (See views of Cornell University.) In 1860, New York contained three millions eight hundred and eighty thousand seven hundred and thirty-five inhabitants, of whom three millions eight hundred and thirty-one thousand five hundred and ninety were white, forty-nine thousand and four colored, and one hundred and forty-one Indians. There are in the state five thousand and seventy-seven churches, eleven thousand six hundred and twenty-one public schools, one thous- and five hundred and twenty private schools, two hundred and eight academies, seventeen colleges, and five hundred and fifty- nine newspaper publications. The governor of New York re- ceives four thousand dollars per annum for his services. The senate consists of thirty-two, and the house of representatives of one hundred and twenty-eight, members. New York sends thirty one members to the national house of representatives, and is entitled to thirty-three electoral votes for president. NEW JERSEY. New Jersey, one of the middle states, and one of the thirteen original United States, lies between latitude 38° 55' and 41° 21' N., and longitude 73° 58' and 75° 29' W. It is bounded on the north by New York, on the south and south-east by the Delaware bay and river, on the east by New York, separated by the Hudson river, and the Atlantic ocean, and on the west by Pennsylvania and Delaware. Its greatest length is one hun- dred and sixty-seven miles ; greatest breadth, ninety-six miles ; area, eight thousand three hundred and twenty square miles, or five millions three hundred and twenty-four thousand eight hundred acres. New Jersey, as a general thing, is low and sandy. The north- eastern portion of the state is traversed by a number of ridges, 204 THE MIDDLE STATES. variously known as Blue, Schooley's, Romapo, and Second mountains. One of the grandest features of New Jersey scenery is the Palisades, a wall of trap-rock rising abruptly from the Hudson, to the hight of five hundred feet. One of the south- ern elevations of this ridge, is Bergen Hill, three miles west of New York, in Hudson county. (See views of Bergen Hill.) The Nevisink Hills, rising four hundred and fifty feet above an inlet of Raritan bay, are crowned with a light house, and com- mands an extensive and enchanting prospect. The principal rivers, beside the Hudson and Delaware, are the Raritan, Hackensack and Passaic rivers. The Raritan, formed by the confluence of the north and south branches, in Somerset county, pours into the Raritan bay, after a course of thirty-three miles, about one-half of which distance is navigable for steamboats. The Hackensack, rising in Rockland county, New York, and emptying into Newark bay, New Jersey, is nav- igable for sloops for fifteen miles from its mouth. The Passaic river rises in Morris county, and, after a north-easterly course of one hundred miles, enters Newark bay, thirteen miles from Paterson. The scenery near the mouth of the river is highly picturesque. At Paterson, the river has a perpendicular pitch of fifty feet, and a total descent of seventy-two feet. During certain seasons of the year, the volume of water precipitated is small ; but the falls have at all times a wild and romantic aspect. (See views of Passaic Falls.) In Warren county, there is a beautiful mountain lake, about two miles in circuit, and found at an elevation of one thousand four hundred feet. The climate of New Jersey is mild, the soil north of the pine plains fertile, and the country healthy, with the exception of the malarious river bottoms. The northern part of the state is adapted to both tilling and pasturage. The staple productions are wheat, maize, oats, Irish and sweet potatoes, apples, peaches, plums, etc. The state has about twenty-four thousand farms, which produced in 1860, one million seven hundred and sixty- three thousand one hundred and twenty-eight bushels of wheat ; nine millions seven hundred and twenty-three thousand three THE MIDDLE STATES. 205 hundred and thirty-six bushels of corn, four millions five hun- dred and thirty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-two bush- els of oats, one hundred and forty-nine thousand four hundred and eighty-five pounds of tobacco, three hundred and forty-nine thousand two hundred and fifty pounds of wool, and five hundred and eight thousand seven hundred and twenty-six tons of hay. Trenton is the capital. Other important cities are Newark, Jersey City, Paterson, Camden, Elizabeth, New Brunswick, and Hoboken. TRENTON, The capital of the state, and seat of justice of Mercer county, is on the eastern bank of the Delaware river, fifty-seven miles south-west of New York, and thirty miles north-east of Phila- delphia. It is regularly laid off on somewhat uneven ground, and is intersected by, with few exceptions, straight streets, in- tersecting each other at right angles. Four railroads radiate from the city, and the Delaware and Raritan canal passes through the town. Main street, the chief thoroughfare, contains the greater por- tion of the business buildings. State street crosses Main street at right angles, and contains the capitol, a handsome stone structure one hundred feet long and sixty feet wide, and many of the finest residences. Besides the capitol, the court house, a brick building, with a Grecian portico, penitentiary and state lunatic asylum are the principal buildings. Two bridges cross the Delaware at this place, one about a mile below and the other within the limits of the city. The latter is eleven hundred feet long. Trenton contains twenty churches, three banks, four paper mills, two rolling mills, and two wire factories. Popula- tion in 1860, 17,228. NEWARK, The largest city of New Jersey, and seat of justice of Essex county, is on the right bank of the Passaic river, twelve miles east by south of New York, on the New Jersey railroad. The site of the city is level, with the exception of an elevation ex- tending entirely across the western suburbs of the city. Broad 206 THE MIDDLE STATES. street, the principal thoroughfare, is two miles long, one hun- dred and thirty-two feet wide, and borders upon three fine public parks, shaded by beautiful elms. The most important public buildings are the court house, a rich brown stone structure, in the Egyptian style, on the corner of Market and High streets, the custom house and post office r occupying an immense stone building, erected at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and the city hall. There are many elegant churches in the city, of which the Methodist, on Market street, the First Baptist, on Academy street, and the Catholic, on Washington, High, Warren, and Lafayette streets, are the most important. Newark contains seventy-five churches, five banks, forty public schools, nine newspaper publications, and five hundred and forty-seven manufacturing establishments, producing annually twenty-five millions of dollars. Population in 1860, 71,941. JERSEY CITY, Next to Newark, the largest city in New Jersey, is the seat of justice of Hudson county, on the western bank of the Hud- son river, directly opposite New York. Five railroads, viz : Union, New Jersey, Morris and Essex, Easton, and Northern, radiate from the city, establishing an unrivaled line of commu- nication with every section of the state. The Morris canal, for coal transport, extends from Jersey City to Easton, in Penn- sylvania. Jersey City is regularly laid off, with fine, broad streets, lighted with gas. There^are about twenty churches in the city, one of the finest of which formerly stood in Wall street, New York, but was removed and built up stone by stone, on its pres- ent site. Large and powerful steamboats, lighted with gas, ply between New York and Jersey City, night and day. The city receives a supply of water from the Passaic river, seven miles distant, by means of water works, constructed at a cost of about six hundred thousand dollars. The distributing reservoir is on Bergen Hill, two miles from the city. The city has several seminaries, a high school, two newspaper offices, two banks, and THE MIDDLE STATES. 207 a number of manufactories of machinery, locomotives, glass, crucibles, etc. Population in 1860, 29,226. (See views of Jersey City.) PATERSON, A city and seat of justice of Passaic county, New Jersey, is on the southern bank of the Passaic river, seventeen miles north- west of New York. It is on the line of the Union railroad, which connects it with New York city, and, also, with Goshen, on the Erie railway. The city is finely built, and is intersected by broad and well paved streets, generally direct, and lighted with gas. A short distance above Paterson, the Passaic river has a fall of seventy-two feet, affording a valuable hydraulic power, which has been greatly improved by the construction of a dam and several canals. The city contains fifteen churches, two newspaper offices, one bank, a number of large hotels, an academy, twenty cotton mills, a number of manufactories of locomotives, machinery, carriages, paper, etc., and an establish- ment manufacturing five thousand and five hundred pounds of silk monthly. Population in 1860, 19,506. (See views of Paterson.) CAMDEN, A city of New Jersey, and capitol of Camden county, is directly opposite Philadelphia, on the eastern bank of the Del- aware river, thirty-two miles south-west of Trenton, and eighty- seven miles from New York. The city is finely laid off on an undulating plain, and contains a large number of elegant public buildings, and handsome private residences. It is connected with Philadelphia by steam ferries, and is the terminus of the Cape May, West Jersey, and Milville railroads. The city con- tains fifteen churches, three newspaper publications, a court house, an insurance office, two saw-mills, two iron foundries, and several ship yards. Population in 1865, 18,000. ELIZABETH, A city and seat of justice of Union county, New Jersey, is fifteen miles south-west of New York, at the junction of the 208 THE MIDDLE STATES. Central with the New Jersey railroad. The city was formerly known as Elizabethtown, and was the capital of the state. It is finely laid off, with broad and regular streets, on a plain con- siderably elevated above the sea. It contains twenty churches, two banks, an insurance office, three newspaper offices, a fine system of schools, and a large number of manufactories. Popu- lation in 1865, 13,500. NEW BRUNSWICK, A city and seat of justice of Middlesex county, New Jersey, is on the right bank of the Raritan river, thirty miles south-west of New York. It is on the line of the New Jersey railroad, which crosses the Raritan at this place, and is the eastern ter- minus of the Delaware and Raritan canal, a channel seventy- five feet wide and seven feet deep, extending to Bordentown. Rutger's college, a dark red free-stone structure, founded in 1770, is one of the finest buildings in the city. New Brunswick contains fifteen churches, several female academies, a theological seminary, five newspaper offices, and three banks. Population in 1865, 13,500. HOBOKEN, A city, and port of entry of Hudson county, is on the western bank of the Hudson river, one and one-half miles north of Jer- sey City, and opposite New York, with which it is connected by steam ferries. It has beautiful pleasure grounds, called " Ely- sian Fields," is a great summer resort, and is rapidly becoming an important town. It contains twelve churches, three newspa- per publications, three banks, and twenty hotels. Two lines of European steamboats depart from this port. Population in 1865, 12,500. (See views of Hoboken.) In 1860, New Jersey contained six hundred and seventy-two thousand and thirty five inhabitants, of whom six hundred and forty-six thousand six hundred and ninety-nine were white, twen- ty-five thousand three hundred and eighteen free colored, and eighteen slaves. The state contains one thousand one hundred and twenty-three churches, two hundred and fifty-one academies, THE MIDDLE STATES. 209 one thousand four hundred and ninety-six public schools, about one hundred public libraries, containing four hundred and thir- ty-three thousand three hundred and twenty-one volumes ; one hundred newspaper publications, twenty-one cotton and forty- one woollen factories, one hundred and nineteen iron foundries, with extensive manufactories of machinery, locomotives, car- riages, glass, boots, etc. The governor of the state receives one thousand eight hundred dollars per annum for his services. The senate consists of twenty, and the house of representatives of sixty, members. New Jersey sends five members to the national house of representatives, and is entitled to seven electoral votes for president. PENNSYLVANIA. Pennsylvania, one of the thirteen original, and, next to New York, the most populous of the United States, lies between lat- itude 99° 43' and 42° 15' N., and longitude 74° 75' and 80° 37' W. It is bounded on the north by New York and Lake Erie ; on the south by Delaware, Maryland and West Vir- ginia ; on the north-east by New York ; on the east by New Jersey ; and on the west by Ohio and West Virginia. It is three hundred and ten miles long, and one hundred and sixty miles wide, including an area of forty-six thousand square miles, or twenty-nine millions four hundred and forty thousand acres. The Alleghany mountain range passes entirely across the state from north to south, forming the water-shed between the basin of the Ohio and the rivers which flow into the Atlantic ocean. The Blue mountains, the eastern ridge of the Allegha- nies, extend first in a north-easterly direction, about one-third of the distance across the state, when they bend to the east- north-east, and enter New Jersey. The Delaware river here bursts through a deep and narrow gorge two miles long, and is walled in by almost perpendicular precipices, one thousand six hundred feet high, forming the Delaware Water Gap, one of the most remarkable curiosities in the state. (See views of Del- aware Water Gap.) Chestnut ridge, the most western range of 14 210 THE MIDDLE STATES. the Alleghanies, and Laurel ridge, reach no great hight, but are well defined mountain chains. The Broad mountains extend from the center of Carbon county, through Schuylkill into Dau- phin county. Broad Top mountain, a peak of the Alleghanies, lies between Bedford and Huntington counties. This mountain contains rich beds of coal, from three to eight feet thick. On the summit of the mountain, is the Broad Top Mountain House, a delightful summer retreat in the heart of the coal region. (See views among the Alleghanies.) The principal rivers, besides the Delaware, which forms the eastern boundary, are the Susquehanna and its branches, the Schuylkill and Lehigh, in the eastern part of the state, and Al- leghany and Monongahela in the western part. The Susque- hanna, formed by the confluence of the west with the north branch, one mile above Sunbury, has a course of one hundred and fifty miles, and empties into the northern extremity of Ches- apeake bay. It contains a large number of picturesque islands, and is obstructed by rapids, which, at high water, render navi- gation difficult. The northern branch of the river originates in Otsego lake, in Otsego county, New York, and has a winding course of two hundred and fifty miles. The western branch originates in Cambria county, Pennsylvania, and has a course of two hundred miles. The Juniata river, formed by the con- fluence of the Little Juniata with the Frankstown branch, is one hundred and fifty miles long, and empties into the Susque- hanna, twelve miles above Harrisburg. The Little Juniata rises in Blair county, and is thirty miles long. The scenery along the banks of the Juniata is in the highest degree grand and beautiful. The mountains, on either side of the river, frequently rise to the hight of one thousand five hundred feet. (See views on the Juniata.) The Schuylkill river, signifying " hidden creek," rises among the highlands in Schuyler county, and pours into the Delaware, five miles below Philadelphia, after a course of one hundred and twenty miles. The Lehigh river, originat- ing in the lowlands of Luzerne and Pike counties, flows through a picturesque and beautiful region, and enters the Delaware at Easton, after a course of ninety miles. The Lackawaxen river, THE MIDDLE STATES. 211 rising in "Wayne county, passes through one of the wildest and most picturesque regions in the state. It drains the Wallenpau- pack creek, and enters the Delaware in Pike county. The Wal- lenpaupack river, in a narrow, deep, and rocky channel, has a beautiful descent in falls and cascades, which deserves the atten- tion of all lovers of the picturesque. (See views of Wallenpau- pack falls.) The Alleghany river rises in Potter county, Penn- sylvania, flows north through Cattaraugus county, New York, and bending south, again enters Pennsylvania, and unites with the Monongahela, at Pittsburgh, forming the Ohio. The Mo- nongahela river is formed by the junction of the West Fork and Tygart's Valley rivers, in Marion county, West Virginia, and has a length from this point of one hundred and fifty miles. The iron and coal mines of Pennsylvania far surpass those of any other state. The great anthracite and semi-anthracite deposits of coal are east of the Alleghanies ; and west are the great beds of bituminous coal, which largely supply the Missis- sippi valley. In the latter districts are large deposits of petro- leum. In the vicinity of Philadelphia are extensive quarries of fine white marble. The climate of the state is mild, and the soil fertile. The staple productions are wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, buckwheat, potatoes, hemp, flax, tobacco, hay, fruits, etc. In 1860, Penn- sylvania produced thirteen millions forty-five thousand two hun- dred and thirty-one bushels of wheat, twenty-eight millions one hundred and ninety-six thousand eight hundred and twenty-one bushels of corn, twenty-seven millions three hundred and eighty- seven thousand one hundred and forty-seven bushels of oats, and three millions one hundred and eighty-one thousand five hundred and eighty-six pounds of tobacco. According to the manufac- turing statistics of 1860, the amount of capital invested Avas one hundred and eighty-nine millions of dollars ; value of raw mate- rial used, one hundred and forty-five millions and three hun- dred thousand dollars ; value of the annual product, two hundred and eighty-five millions and five hundred thousand dollars. Harrisburg, the sixth city in size in the state, is the capita), and Philadelphia is the largest city. Pittsburg, Alleghany 212 THE MIDDLE STATES. city, Reading, and Lancaster city are the other most important towns. HARRISBURG, Capital of Pennsylvania, and also of Dauphin county, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Susquehanna river, one hundred and ten miles north of Washington. The capitol, occupying an elevation in the center of the city, and containing a valuable library, and the court-house, are the principal public buildings. The city has eighteen churches, six newspaper pub- lications, ten public schools, a male and female seminary, four banks, and a county prison. Population, in 1865, about 20,000. PHILADELPHIA, The chief city of Pennsylvania, and, next to New York, the most populous in the United States, is on a peninsula formed by the confluence of the Schuylkill with the Delaware river, one hundred and thirty-six miles north-east of Washington, and eighty-seven miles south-west of New York. The ground on which the city is built, though generally level, is slightly elevated towards the north. The original plan of its founder, William Penn, though at the time followed to an extent, has, by succeed- ing generations, been wholly disregarded. The ten chief streets of the city extend from river to river, and are intersected at right angles by upwards of twenty-five others. The streets vary from fifty to one hundred and twenty-feet in width. The city is divided into four nearly equal parts, by Broad street, running north and south, and Market street, extending across the penin- sula from east to west. At the intersection of the latter streets is a fine public park, divided by these thoroughfares into four sections. Each quarter of the city also contains a fine park. The city is between five and six miles on the Delaware, two and one half miles on the Schuylkill, and covers an area of ten square miles. The narrowest portion of the peninsula is two miles wide, and it is here that the most compact and business portion of the city is found. Chestnut street, containing the custom house and United States mint, Third street and Market street are the chief business thoroughfares. THE MIDDLE STATES. 213 Among the public buildings, the state house, a plain brick edifice, in Independence square, on Chestnut street, demands universal attention. It was in the east wing of this building that congress convened and issued the declaration of indepen- dence, July 4th, 1776 — a circumstance, which, connected as it is with the birth of our nation, has rendered it a national object of respect and interest. The east and west Avings are connected by corridors, and the whole is surmounted by a dome, contain- ing a town clock and an alarm bell. The custom house is a fine edifice of the Doric order, one hundred and sixty feet long, eighty-seven feet wide, and constructed at a cost of five hundred thousand dollars. The United States mint, on Chestnut street, is two hundred and twenty feet long, one hundred and twenty feet wide, and cost two hundred thousand dollars. The mer-. chants' exchange is a rich marble edifice, one hundred and four- teen feet long, ninety-five feet wide, and containing, besides the great hall of the exchange, insurance and other offices. The Girard college buildings, constructed of white marble, surpass ia beauty of architecture all other structures in the city. The entire cost of the buildings, including the grounds, was upwards of two millions of dollars, which sum was left the city by Stephen Girard, a Philadelphia merchant. Philadelphia has a large number of excellent hotels. Of these, the Continental house, American house, and Washington house, on Chestnut street, Union house on Arch, and Merchants' house on Fourth street are the most important. The Pennsylvania hospital, established in 1752, occupies a square at the intersection of Pine, Eighth, Spruce and Ninth streets. There are several buildings in this square belonging te the institution, one of which, the chief structure, is two hundred and eighty-two feet long, and all are constructed of brick. There are in the city fifteen military hospitals, with accommodations for upwards of fourteen thousand patients. Among the principal libraries are the Philadelphia library, and American philosophical society, founded by Benjamin Frank- lin, the former containing eighty thousand, and the latter twenty thousand volumes. 214 THE MIDDLE STATES. Among the churches, the Catholic cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, greatly surpasses in architectural beauty all others in the city. This imposing edifice, constructed of red sandstone, is in Logan square, fronting on Eighteenth street. In front are four Corinthian columns, sixty feet high, with a tower at each angle of one hundred and ten degrees, the whole surmounted by a dome, the apex of which is two hundred and ten feet above the ground. The other important churches are Christ's church, St. Mark's church, a red sandstone structure, one hundred and fifty feet long, ninety feet wide, and crowned with a lofty tower and spire, Church of the Holy Trinity, Church of Calvary, and Baptist church. Among the educational establishments of the city may be mentioned the Academy of the Episcopal church, Philadelphia academy, and Theological seminary, the latter two of which are Catholic institutions. There are also a girls' and a boys' high school, the former of which, on Sargeant street, is under the direction of a male principal and nine female assistants. The latter, established in 1837, is on Broad street, and has an aver- age attendance of four hundred and seventy students. This building has a fine observatory, in which is a powerful telescope. Connected with the institution are fourteen "professors, on sala- ries of one thousand two hundred dollars each. Philadelphia is supplied with water by the Fairmount water works, located on the Schuylkill river, two miles north-east of the state house. By means of a dam across the river, eight wheels are turned, which work as many pumps. The water is received in four large reservoirs, on an eminence near the river, and from thence is conveyed through pipes to other reservoirs in different parts of the city. The city has three hundred and sixty-five churches, fifty peri- odicals, forty weekly and twelve daily publications, sixty gram- mar schools, three hundred schools of lower grade, twenty-five banks, eight savings banks, five theatres, and a state peniten- tiary. It has manufactories of iron, machinery, cotton and tSe middle states. 215 woollen goods, boots, shoes, furniture, etc., amounting annually to one hundred and seventy-five millions of dollars. Population in 1860, 565,531. (See views of Philadelphia.) PITTSBURG, An important city of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice of Alleghany county, is at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, which here unite to form the Ohio, five hundred and thirty-seven miles west of Philadelphia. Though there are considerable elevations along the rivers and in the western suburbs, the general character of the site of the city is level. When the town was laid off, the streets were made to follow the general direction of the rivers ; consequently the cross-streets meet obliquely, a few blocks from the Monongahela. The numerous factories and foundries of the city, send forth columns of smoke, which fill the air for miles around, cover the buildings with soot, and give the city a dreary aspect. From this fact, Pittsburg has been appropriately styled the Birmingham of America. Directly across the Alleghany river, on the north, is Alleghany city, and on the opposite side of the Monongahela, is Birmingham, both of which cities might justly be regarded as extensions of Pittsburg. Among the public buildings, the court house, on the summit of an elevation in the western part of the city, holds a conspicu- ous place. This building, constructed of stone, in the Doric order, is one hundred and sixty-five feet long, one hundred feet wide, and surmounted by a dome, which rises one hundred and forty-eight feet above the ground. The custom house, recently erected on the corner of Smithfield and Fifth streets, is a free- stone structure of the Grecian order, constructed at a cost of one hundred and fifteen thousand dollars. Among the other impor- tant buildings may be mentioned the Monongahela house, one of the finest hotels in the United States, the Catholic cathedral, an imposing brick edifice, on the corner of Grant and Fifth streets, surmounted by a lofty spire, and the Episcopal church of St. Peter, on Grant street, directly opposite the court house. 216 THE MIDDLE STATES. Pittsburg is situated among the richest deposits of iron and bituminous coal in the United States. Sixty-five companies in the city produce yearly one million six hundred thousand tons of coal. There are in the city sixteen foundries, twenty-four iron and steel manufactories, several rolling mills, six cotton mills, and numerous manufactories of steam engines, boilers, nails, files, etc. Population in 1860, 49,220. ALLEGHANY, A city of Pennsylvania, is on the Alleghany river, directly opposite Pittsburg, with which it is closely connected in com- mercial and social interest. Three fine bridges, and a suspen- sion aqueduct, extend across the river between the two cities. Among the important buildings, may be mentioned the western penitentiary of Pennsylvania, a large stone building, constructed in the ancient Norman style, on Ohio street, the western Penn- sylvania hospital, an imposing brick edifice in the eastern part of the city, and the house of industry, on Washington street. Alleghany has fifteen churches, two theological seminaries, a fine system of public schools, three national banks, one hundred and twenty manufactories, and a large number of foundries. READING, An important city of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice of Berks county, is on the east bank of the Schuylkill river, fifty-two miles north-east of Philadelphia. The city is hand- somely laid off on an undulating plain, and is intersected by wide and regular streets. Prominent among the public buildings is the court-house, hav- ing a commanding situation, and adorned with a sandstone portico. Among the churches, the Episcopal church, a beauti- ful sandstone edifice, surmounted by a steeple two hundred feet high, and the Germans' Lutheran church, are the most import- ant. Reading is on the Philadelphia, Reading, and Pottsville railroad, and is the terminus of the Lebanon Valley railroad. The city has twenty-three churches, eight newspaper offices, several public libraries, an academy, four banks, two rolling THE MIDDLE STATES. 217 mills, two flouring mills, a cotton mill, steam forges, and several foundries. It is also extensively engaged in the manufacture of machinery, steam engines, etc. Population in 1860, 23,162. LANCASTER, A finely built and important city of Pennsylvania, and seat of justice of Lancaster county, is seventy miles west of Phila- delphia, on the Pennsylvania Central railroad. The city is regularly laid off, and is crossed by broad, and with few excep- tions, direct streets. Wood and brick are the chief materials used in building. The most important public buildings are the court house and county prison, both recently erected, the former in the Grecian style, and each costing in the vicinity of one hundred and twen- ty-five thousand dollars. The city contains a fine college, fifteen churches, ten newspaper publications, two public libraries, four banks, and manufactories of threshing machines, locomotives, carriages, rifles, axes, etc. Population in 1860, 17,603. In 1860, Pennsylvania had two millions nine hundred and six thousand one hundred and fifteen inhabitants, of whom two mil- lions eight hundred and forty-nine thousand two hundred and sixty-six were white, and fifty-six thousand eight hundred and forty-nine were colored. The state contains twenty-six colleges, twenty state academies, three hundred and thirty-five public schools, four thousand churches, about four hundred libraries, eight schools of medicine, and three hundred and ten periodical publications. The governor of Pennsylvania is elected for three years, and receives a salary of three thousand dollars per annum. The senate consists of thirty-three and the house of representa- tives of one hundred members. In 1862 there was in the state ninety-four banks, with an aggregate capital of twenty-five mil- lions nine hundred and seventeen thousand six hundred and fifty dollars. DELAWARE. Delaware, one of the thirteen original states, the smallest of the middle, and, next to Rhode Island, the smallest of the Uni- ted States, lies between latitude 38° 28' and 39° 50' north, and 218 THE MIDDLE STATES. longitude 75° and 75° 45' west. The eastern shore of the state is washed by the Atlantic ocean and the Delaware river and bay, the latter of which separates Delaware from New Jersey. Penn- sylvania bounds the state on the north, and Maryland on the south and west. Length of the state, ninety-six miles ; great- est breadth, thirty-seven miles ; area, two thousand one hundred and twenty square miles, or one million three hundred and fifty- six thousand acres. The surface of Delaware, as a general thing, is level, no ele- vations being found of sufficient altitude to be called mountains. The northern portion of the state is traversed by ranges of hills, and in the western part is a marshy elevation, partaking of the nature of a table land. The southern and central portions are low and level. The soil in this section is poor, consisting of a mixture of sand and clay. The most fertile districts occur in the north, and on the Delaware river and bay. The chief pro- ductions are Indian corn, wheat, rye, barley, buckwheat, hemp, flax, hops, honey, butter, etc. Besides the Delaware, the most important rivers are Brandy- wine and Christiana, flowing into the Delaware river, Indian river, flowing into the Atlantic ocean, and Nanticoke and Chop- tank, flowing into the Chesapeake bay. The Delaware river rises in New York, on the western slope of the Catskills, and, after a course of three hundred miles, enters Delaware bay, an arm of the Atlantic. The river is navigable for large vessels as far as Philadelphia, and for steamboats to the head of tide- water, at Trenton. Delaware has six hundred and fifteen manufacturing estab- lishments, employing a capital of five millions three hundred sixty thousand dollars, and having an annual income of nine millions nine hundred and twenty thousand dollars. The com- merce of Delaware is small, the trade of her cities being monop- olized by the more important ones of Philadelphia and Baltimore. The chief exports are flour, grain, fruits, lumber, and sand. Besides Dover, the capital, and Wilmington, the largest city, the places of any importance are Milford, Newcastle, and Smyrna. THE MIDDLE STATES. 219 DOVER, The capital of the state, and also of Kent county, is on the Jones river and Delaware railroad, fifty miles north of Wilming- ton. It has a fine state house, four churches, and three large hotels. Population, 1,289. WILMINGTON, Chief city of Delaware, is in Newcastle county, on the Chris- tiana creek, twenty-eight miles south-west of Philadelphia. It contains a custom house, twenty-three churches, a Catholic col- lege, a fine library, four private and nine public schools, seven banks, six large machine shops, and a number of iron foundries, rolling and saw mills, and cotton factories. Population in 1860, 21,256. MILFORD Is a thriving town of Kent county, on the Mispillion creek, twenty-one miles south-east of Dover. It contains five churches, an academy, two banks, a newspaper office, a public library, and a ship yard. Population, 1,763. NEWCASTLE Is a city and seat of justice of Newcastle county, on the Delaware river, five miles south of Wilmington. It has eight churches, a court house, a public library, a bank, and manufac- tories of locomotives, machinery, etc. Population, 1,902. SMYRNA Is a thriving town of Kent county, thirty-six miles south of Wilmington, containing manufactories of carriages, a newspaper office and bank, five churches and three hotels. Population, 2,153. In 1860, Delaware had one hundred and twelve thousand two hundred and sixteen inhabitants, of whom ninety thousand five hundred and eighty-nine were white, nineteen thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine free colored, and one thousand seven hundred and ninety-eight slaves. Delaware has two hundred and twenty churches, one college, two hundred and fifty-six public 220 THE MIDDLE STATES. schools, forty academies, and one hundred and fourteen libra- ries, containing eighty-eight thousand four hundred and seventy volumes. The governor of Delaware is elected for four years, on a salary of one thousand three hundred and thirty-three dol- lars, and is not allowed to be re-elected. The senate consists of nine, and the house of representatives of twenty-one, members. Delaware sends one member to the national house of represen- tatives, and is entitled to three electoral votes for president. CHAPTER III. THE SOUTHERN STATES. MARYLAND. Maryland is one of the thirteen original states, and the most northern of the southern states of which it is the smallest. It lies between latitude 38° and 39° 44' N., and between longitude 75° 10' and 79° 39' W. It is bounded on the north by Penn- sylvania, on the east by Delaware and the Atlantic ocean, and on the south and west by Virginia. The outline of Maryland is very irregular. Its northern boundary has an extent of one hundred and ninety miles, but on the west side it contracts until its southern boundary is scarcely half that extent. The coast line of this state, including that of Chesapeake bay, is four hundred and eleven miles, with- out which it is only thirty-three miles. The eastern portion of this state is level and the soil sandy. The mountainous portion is in the north-west part of the state, between the Potomac river and the Pennsylvania line. This section is crossed by several ridges of the Alleghanies. The coal, copper and iron mines of Maryland are productive. The Chesapeake bay extends into the state about one hundred and twenty miles, varying in width from seven to ten miles. It divides the state into two parts, known as the eastern and west- ern shore. A number of navigable rivers empty into this bay, the most important of which is the Potomac, being navigable for large vessels as far as Alexandria. The others are the Susque- hanna, Potoxent, Patapsco, Elk, Chester, Chopotank, Nanti- coke, and Pocomoke, all of which are navigable for small vessels. The falls of the Potomac are about fourteen miles above George- town; the perpendicular hight is not very great, being only about forty feet, but the beauty of the scene is hightened by the per- pendicular cliffs on the Virginia side. 222 THE SOUTHERN STATES. The staple productions are tobacco, wheat, and Indian corn. The forests are composed of a great variety of trees. Maryland has a great amount of capital employed in various manufactures, producing forty-one millions seven hundred and thirty-five thousand one hundred and sixty dollars' worth of goods annually. It is the sixth state in the United States in commercial importance, being connected with Pennsylvania and southern New York by the Susquehanna river ; with the west by Ohio and Baltimore railroad and the Ohio and Chesa- peake canal, and the north-east by the Delaware and Ohio canaL Maryland possesses great facilities for internal as well as for- eign commerce. The chief cities are Baltimore, Cumberland, Fredric City and Annapolis. BALTIMORE, The largest city of Maryland, has a population of two hundred and twelve thousand four hundred and eighteen. It is situated on the Patapsco river, about twelve miles from Chesapeake bay. The site of Baltimore is probably more picturesque than any other city in the union. It covers a number of eminences which furnish a pleasing variety for the tourist. From Washington monument, which is situated on a hill, a most beautiful panor- ama is spread out before the beholder. Baltimore has been called, from the number of its monuments, the " Monumental City." The most imposing of these is the Washington monu- ment, which has a base fifty feet square and twenty feet high, supporting a column one hundred and seventy-six and a half feet in hight, crowned by a statue of Washington sixteen feet high. The summit of the monument is three hundred and twelve feet above the level of the harbor. It is constructed of white marble, and cost two hundred thousand dollars. Battle monument is also a beautiful structure of white marble ; the base is square and finely ornamented; on it rests a facial column eighteen feet high, on the bands of which are inscribed the names of those who were killed while defending the city from the attack THE SOUTHERN STATES. 223 of the British in 1814. This column is surmounted by the God- dess of Liberty, seven and a half feet high. The Merchants' shot tower, the highest in the world, having an elevation of two hundred and forty-six feet, is also an object of interest to tour- ists. The Baltimore court house is a handsome structure two stories high, sixty-five feet wide and one hundred and forty-five feet long, constructed at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. The United States court house is a handsome edifice built of granite. The Roman Catholic cathedral, a massive granite structure, is the most imposing church edifice in Balti- more. The total number of churches in the city is one hundred and sixty-one. Among the literary and educational institutions, are the Uni- versity of Maryland, Logola college, Baltimore college, and the Theological school. The athenaeum has a library of nineteen thousand volumes. The Baltimore library has fifteen thousand volumes. The Maryland historical society has a collection of one thousand volumes, and in the gallery belonging to this society, are annually held exhibitions of painting and sculpture. There are about twenty-five newspaper publications, of which eight are dailies. The benevolent institutions of Baltimore, are the Maryland hospital for the insane, Mount Hope institution, the Church Home and Infirmary, five orphan asylums, and an alms-house. The state penitentiary, with the jail, occupies one square. There are eighty-two public schools, including the primaries, with an attendance of fifteen thousand six hundred and sixty-one scholars. Baltimore supports a great number of hotels, of which the city hotel, and Eutah house, are first-class. Druid hill park encloses five hundred and forty-eight acres of land, situated just beyond the northern limits of the city. In Patterson's park are thirty-six acres, embracing the earthworks thrown up for the defense of the city during the war of 1812. Baltimore ranks among the first cities of the United States in commercial importance. CUMBERLAND, The county seat of Alleghany county, is situated on the Potomac river, and on the Ohio and Baltimore railroads, and 224 THE SOUTHERN STATES. about one hundred and eighty miles from Baltimore. It has a population of 8,478. It contains the county buildings, three banks, three printing offices, and a savings institution. FREDRIC CITY, Shire town of Fredric county, in wealth, population and com- mercial importance, takes the third rank in the state. It has a population of 8,142. It contains a handsome court-house, six tanneries, three banks, a college, an academy, two printing offices and eleven churches. ANNAPOLIS, The capital of Maryland, has a population of about 5,000. It is situated on the Severns river, about two miles from Chesa- peake bay. In Annapolis are six churches, a bank, market- house, a fine state house, and two printing offices, from which are issued three newspapers. The governor of Maryland holds his office four years, and has a salary of three thousand and six hundred dollars, with the use of a furnished house. The house of representatives con- sists of seventy-four members, and the senate of twenty-two. These, with the governor, are elected by the people. DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. In 1790, Maryland and Virginia ceded one hundred square miles, situated on both sides of the Potomac river, to the United States. This tract was called the District of Columbia. It was designed for the site of the capital of the Republic, and, accord- ingly, a city was laid out and public buildings erected. The name of the city thus founded was Washington, and in 1800, the seat of government was removed thereto from Philadelphia. During the war of 1812, the British entered the city, burned the capitol, together with the library of congress, and the presi- dential mansion. These were rebuilt on the Maryland side of the Potomac, and the portion of the District on the Virginia side was retroceded to that state. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 225 The District of Columbia is under the government of the United States congress, in -which it has no representative, and is allowed no vote for the president. Georgetown and Washington are the only cities in the district. They are about two miles apart, and are separated by Rock creek. GEORGETOWN Is beautifully situated on a range of hills, the most elevated of which are called the Hights. (See views of Georgetown.) These eminences, which are occupied by handsome villas, com- mand a view of Washington, the Potomac, Oak Hill cemetery, and an almost illimitable expanse of country. The Alexandria branch of the Ohio and Chesapeake canal is carried across the Potomac at Georgetown, by means of an enormous aqueduct one thousand four hundred and forty-six feet long and thirty-six feet above ordinary water level. Georgetown is chiefly distinguished for its refined society and great literary advantages. The most important institution is the college, under the control of the Catholics, connected with which is a female academy, under management of the nuns, and a botanical garden. A United States hospital for soldiers is erected here. Georgetown being the only port in the District of Columbia, is important as a commercial town. It is situated at the head of navigation upon the Potomac, about one hundred and twenty-five miles from its mouth. Its trade in flour is sup- plied by fifty mills. It is one of the greatest markets in the United States for shad and herring, of which vast quantities are caught in the Potomac and brought here for barreling. WASHINGTON, The political metropolis of the United States, is located between the Potomac and a tributary call East Branch. The Potomac, at Washington, is about a mile in width, and of suffi- cient depth for the largest ships. The principal edifices are the Capitol, White house, Treasury building, Patent office, Post office, and Smithsonian institute. The first of these, in point of interest and architectural merit, is 15 226 THE SOUTHERN STATES. the Capitol, containing the supreme court room and halls of the national legislature. This building comprises the centre capitol and extensions. The corner stone of the centre building was laid by Washington in 1792. The extension was commenced by President Fillmore in 1851. The center capitol, built of free- stone, painted white, is three hundred and fifty-two feet long by one hundred and twenty-one deep. The extensions, of pure white marble, are each two hundred and thirty-eight by one hundred and forty feet, connected by corridors forty-four feet long. The whole building is seven hundred and thirty-seven feet long, and covers three and a half acres of ground. (See views of the Capitol.) In the centre of the building is a rotunda ninety-six feet in diameter, surmounted by a dome of iron, on which rests Crawford's bronze statue of Liberty. The western front commands the finest view to be had in Washington, over- looking all the principal public buildings, and the central and western portions of the city. Groups of statuary by Persico and Greenough are on the eastern central portico. On the right of the entrance to the rotunda are placed the statues of War and Civilization ; on the left of the entrance are the statues of Peace, and Columbus and the Indian girl. In the rotunda is a statue of Lincoln, and many historical paintings, among which are the baptism of Pocahontas, the landing of Columbus, the surrender of Cornwallis, General Washington resigning his commission at Annapolis, the surrender of Burgoyne, the embarkation of the Pilgrims, and others. In the dome of the capitol is an allegori- cal painting by Brumide. (See view of painting.) South of the rotunda is the old hall of representatives, now used for stat- uary, and as a passage way to the new hall. Above the south door is placed a statue of Liberty, supported by an eagle with spread wings. Over the north entrance is a statue regarded as one of the gems of the capitol. It is a figure representing His- tory recording the events of the nation. The senate chamber is in the northern and the house of representatives in the southern extension of the capitol. They are both constructed of iron, ornamented alike, and differ only in size. The ceiling of the senators' retiring room is of Italian and the sides of gold veined THE SOUTHERN STATES. 227 Tennessee marble. This room is more costly and beautifully ornamented than the others. (See views of retiring room.) The grounds around the capitol comprise about twenty-five acres, but they are soon to be increased to fifty acres. East of the capitol is a statue of Washington, by Greenough. (See view of statue.) In front of the capitol, between Maryland and Penn- sylvania avenues, a botanical garden is being laid out, in which is a large collection of plants, secured by the South Sea and Japanese exploring expeditions. The Presidential Mansion or White House, built of yellow free-stone, painted white, is about one and a half miles from the capitol, having been placed at this distance on Washington's suggestion, that the executive and legislative departments ought to be far enough apart to insure separate hours of business for each. It is two stories high, and has a front of one hundred and seventy feet by eighty-six deep. (See views of White House.) In the north lawn is a statue of Jefferson, and in Lafayette square, across Pennsylvania avenue, is an equestrian statue of Jackson, by Clark Mills, and in the circle near Georgetown is a statue of Washington by the same artist. (See views of statuary.)- The Treasury building, an immense edifice six hundred feet long and two hundred feet wide, is devoted to the state and trea- sury departments. (See views of Treasury building.) In this edifice are about five hundred rooms, in one of which is an im- mense printing and engraving establishment. West of the president's house are the Navy and War depart- ments and Pension office. They are large, plain brick buildings. The Postoffice, one of the finest structures in the city, is situated north of Pennsylvania avenue, about half way between the capi- tol and the president's house. It is built of white marble, two hundred and four feet long and one hundred and two feet wide, and contains upwards of two hundred rooms. The Patent office occupies a whole square, and in structure, extent and elegance is not surpassed by any other building in the city except the capitol. (See views of Patent office.) Here may be found models of every invention or machine that ha3 been patented. 228 THE SOUTHERN STATES. A colossal monument to Washington has been commenced in the proposed new park, between the president's house and the Capitol, to be erected by contributions of the people, the plan of which is an obelisk of white marble, at the base fifty-five feet square, diminishing to twenty-five feet square at the hight of five hundred feet. This stands on a pedestal seventeen feet high which is to be used as a receptacle for relics. A block of native wood or stone is furnished by each state, which is to be inserted at each landing of the inside staircase. East of the monument, and about half way between that and the capitol, situated on an eminence in the new park now being laid out, stands the Smith- sonian institute. (See views of Smithsonian institute.) This imposing edifice, four hundred and fifty feet long and one hun- dred and forty feet deep, is built of red sandstone in the Norman style. James Smithson, an Englishman, left to the United States five hundred and fifteen thousand one hundred and ninety- six dollars, " to found at Washington an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men." With a part of this fund and the accumulated interest the Smithsonian insti- tute was founded. In this buildingare a museum for objects of natural history, and a gallery for painting and statuary. It has a library of forty thousand volumes, and one of the best supplied labratories in the United States. Works on ethnology and the antiquities have been published by this institution. The officers are the President, Vice President, Chief Justice of the United States, members of the cabinet, Commissioners of the Patent office, the Mayor of Washington, and a board of Regents, who elect a secretary, chancellor and executive committee. One of the most creditable institutions of the United States is the National Observatory, lying in latitude 38° 53' 39" N., and longitude 77° 2' 48" W. from Greenwich. It is itself a meridian, and longitude is often reckoned from this city. The observatory occupies a commanding site on the Potomac, south- west of the white house. Astronomical observations are con- stantly made here, and chronometers for the use of the navy are tested. The largest telescope is a fourteen feet reflector, there are also a number of smaller ones. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 229 The Arsenal is on Green! eaf point, at the junction of the east branch with the Potomac. The navy-yard, on the east branch, covering about twenty acres, enclosed by a wall, is about mid- way between the arsenal and capitol. This yard, one of the most extensive in the union, employs four hundred hands in the manufacture of anchors, boilers, steam engines, chain cables, in foundries, etc. The government asylum for the insane of the District of Co- lumbia, the army and the navy is situated on the opposite side of the east branch from the navy. About one mile east of the capitol is the congressional burying ground, where have been deposited some of the most eminent men of the nation. VIRGINIA. Virginia, one of the original states of the American confed- eracy, lies between latitude 36° 30', and 40° 38' N., and between longitude 75° 10' and 83° 30' W. It is bounded on the north by Ohio, Pennsylvania and Maryland ; on the east by Mary- land and the Atlantic ocean ; on the south by North Carolina and Tennessee, and on the west by Kentucky and Ohio. The state was settled in 1607, and being the first of the Eng- lish colonies, was styled the " Ancient Dominion." The out- line is irregular, the surface varied, and the state probably embraces a greater extent of mountainous territory than any other east of the Rocky mountains. White top, its highest elevation, is six thousand feet above the level of the sea. The principal productions are tobacco, wheat and corn. The inhab- itants of Virginia were the first civilized people that were exten- sively engaged in raising tobacco. Virginia possesses facilities, which, if properly improved, would render it one of the first manufacturing states in the union, but like the rest of the southern states, less attention is paid to the manufactures, than to agriculture. The level and coast regions are hot, and subject to droughts during the summer. The mountainous part of the state has a salubrious temperature, with warm days and cool nights. 230 THE SOUTHERN STATES. Virginia abounds in picturesque scenery. The most noted places are the Mineral Springs, Wyer's and Madison's caves, the Chimneys, the Natural bridge, Natural tunnel, Buffalo knob, and Hawk's nest. The Natural bridge spans a chasm ninety feet broad. The upper is two hundred and forty, and the under side two hundred feet above the water. The roads leading to the bridge, are, during wet weather, often impassable, and when best, the difficulties encountered in reaching the bridge are so great that they have been compared to purgatory. The bridge is in the form of an arch, through which, flows Creek river. Thirty feet from the bottom, and directly under the arch, are carved the letters G. W. These are the initials of George Washington, Avho, when a boy, scaled the rocks to this hight, and left his name indelibly traced on its surface. (See views of Natural bridge.) The Hawk's nest is a perpendicular cliff, one thousand feet above New river, on which it is situated. Through the Natural tunnel, passes a stream under an arch seventy feet in elevation, covered with a bed of earth twice that thickness. RICHMOND, The largest city and capital of the state, is situated on the James river. It has a population of 37,1)10. The city is built on several eminences, two of which are Richmond and Shokoe hills, separated by Shokoe creek. Main street is the principal business part of the city. The capitol is on Shokoe hill. Its size and elevated position render it the most conspicuous object in the city. The public square, in the center of which the capitol stands, embraces about eight acres. In it is a marble statue of Washington, around the center base of which are the statues of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, and Mason. The city hall, at an angle of Capitol square, is a handsome and costly building, constructed in the Doric style. The peniten- tiary has a front three hundred feet by one hundred and ten deep. It stands in the suburbs of the city, near the river. Richmond contains a court-house and jail, a new custom-house, two market-houses, a theater, a masonic hall, an orphan asylum, three banks, and about thirty churches. The public press issues THE SOUTHERN STATES. 231 seventeen papers and periodicals, several of which are dailies. Among the educational institutions, are Richmond college, St. Vincent's college, Sydney college, the Virginia historical and philosophical society, and the medical department of Ham den. The city was founded in 1742, and became the capital of the state in 1780. During the rebellion it was the capital of the southern confederacy, and was taken by General Grant, of the union army, on the 2d of April, 1865, after a long siege. (See views of Richmond.) NORFOLK, Next to Richmond, the most populous city of Virginia, is situated on the north bank of Elizabeth river. It is one of the most important commercial and naval stations in the United States. The city hall, a structure eighty by sixty feet, has a granite front, and a cupola one hundred and ten feet high. Other conspicuous buildings, are the Norfolk military academy, the Mechanics' and Ashard halls. Norfolk has three banks, two reading rooms, nine seminaries, an orphan asylum, a hospital, fourteen churches, one of which has a steeple two hundred feet high, and several printing offices. The town was laid out in 1705, burned by the British in 1776, and incorporated as a city in 1845. PETERSBURG, A flourishing town of Virginia, is on the south bank of the Appomattox river. It has a population of eighteen thousand two hundred and sixty-six. The city is well built, and contains three banks, one woollen and several cotton factories, eight churches, and has three newspaper publications. It was taken by the union army in April, 1865. ALEXANDRIA, The county seat of Alexandria county, is pleasantly located on the west bank of the Potomac river. It has a court house, three banks, several excellent schools, two printing offices, and twelve churches. It is connected with Georgetown by means of a canal, and with Washington and Gordonsville by railroad. 232 THE SOUTHERN STATES. MOUNT VERNON Is about eight miles below Alexandria, on the Potomac. It is noted for being the residence and burial, place of George Wash- ington. (See views of Mount Vernon.) WEST VIRGINIA. West Virginia was admitted into the union as a state in 1862. It comprises about a third of the old state of Virginia. It lies between the Alleghany mountains and the Ohio and Big Sandy rivers. This state was separated from Virginia during the war of secession. Its climate, soil and productions resemble those of Kentucky and Ohio. Coal, iron, salt and petroleum exist in large quantities. WHEELING, The capital of West Virginia, is on the Ohio river, and on both sides of Wheeling creek. The site of the city is about six hundred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. In popula- tion, manufactures and trade, it is the chief city of the state. Wheeling has a population of 22,500, and contains a hand- some court house, custom house, four banks, three academies, nineteen churches, and publishes four or five newspapers. The river is here crossed by a beautiful suspension bridge, measur- ing in length one thousand and ten feet. The towers are sixty feet above the abutments, and one hundred and fifty-three feet above low water mark. The bridge is supported by four cable wires, each eight inches in diameter, and one thousand three hun- dred and eighty feet long. This bridge was constructed at a cost of two hundred and ten thousand dollars. Inexhaustible beds of coal are found in the immediate vicin- ity of Wheeling, furnishing fuel at a small expense to its nume- rous manufactories. The other principal places of West Virgfnii are Charlestown, Parkersburg, Point Pleasant, and Harper's Ferry. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 233 CHARLESTOWN, A handsome post village and county seat of Kanawha coun- ty, situated on the Kanawha river, is noted for its salt works. Its population numbers one thousand five hundred and twenty. Twice each year the district court of the United States is held at this place. The river at Charlestown is three hundred yards wide, and navigable for steamers at all seasons of the year. PARKERSBURG, The shire town of Wood county, is neatly built and pleasantly situated on the Ohio, at the mouth of the Little Kanawha. It has a population of six hundred, and contains a court house, four or five churches, a printing office, two national banks, and several steam mills. In the vicinity of Parkersburg, wells of coal oil abound. POINT PLEASANT, The seat of justice of Mason county, has a population of five hundred and nineteen, a court house, and several stores. harper's ferry Is at the junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, where the united waters break through the Blue Ridge. The scenery in this vicinity is beautiful and picturesque. Thomas Jefferson thought the " passage through the Blue Ridge one of the most stupendous scenes in nature, and well worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness." The original name of this place was the Shenandoah Falls. (See views of Harper's Ferry.) NORTH CAROLINA. North Carolina, one of the thirteen original states, libs be- tween latitude 33° 53' and 36° 33' N., and between longitude 75° 25' and 84° 30' W. It is bounded on the north by Vir- ginia, on the east by the Atlantic ocean, on the south by the Atlantic ocean and South Carolina, and on the west by Tennes- see. The east and south-east portions of the state are marshy, 234 THE SOUTHERN STATES. level and sandy, and abound in numerous shallow lakes, partic- ularly between the Albemarle and Pamlico sounds. The level region extends about sixty miles from the coast. The center is hilly, and the western part mountainous. Through this part of the state pass several ridges of the Alleghany system, the high- est peaks of which are, Clingman's peak, six thousand nine hundred and forty-one feet ; Grandmother mountain, two thous- and five hundred feet; Grandfather mountain, five thousand seven hundred and eighty-eight feet ; Roan mountain, six thous- and two hundred and seventy feet ; and Mt. Mitchell, the most elevated peak east of the Rocky mountains, six thousand seven hundred and thirty-two feet above the level of the sea. The principal minerals of North Carolina are gold, copper, iron, and coal. The state is traversed by a number of rivers, but the rapids and floating sand-bars of which prevent their being navigable for large vessels. The most important produc- tions are cotton, rice, tobacco, wheat and corn. The chief exports are lumber and naval stores. Attempts were made by Sir Walter Raleigh to settle North Carolina in 1585, but they were unsuccessful. The first perma- nent settlements were on the banks of the Roanoke and Chowa- ra. These were attacked, in 1711, by the Tuscaroras, Creeks, and other Indians, who massacred one hundred and twelve set- tlers. The united forces of the Carolinas killed three hundred savages, and completely routed them. North Carolina was the first to propose a separation from Great Britain, and took an active part in the revolution. WILMINGTON, The commercial metropolis and principal city of the state, is situated on the Cape Fear river. It has a population of nine thousand five hundred and fifty-two. Its business and popula- tion have greatly increased since the completion of the Wilming- ton and Raleigh railroad. The city has been recently connec- ted with Manchester, in South Carolina. Communications with Charleston and Fayetteville, are kept up by means of steam- boats. In 1819 a great portion of the city was consumed by THE SOUTHERN STATES. 235 fire. Wilmington was captured from the rebels in February, 1865, by the union army and navy. Many steam engines are employed in the manufactories, among which are saw, planing and rice mills, and distilleries. The city contains three banks, and publishes three newspapers. FAYETTEVILLE, The county seat of Cumberland county, is situated at the head of natural navigation, on the Cape Fear river. The town is symmetrically laid out, with streets one hundred feet wide. It has a population of four thousand seven hundred and ninety. The arsenal of construction at Fayetteville is a large establish- ment, embracing about fifty acres. Beside the county buildings, there are in this place three banks, and three printing offices. The city was captured by the federal troops in March, 1865. BEAUFORT, A port of entry, and shire town of Carteret county, has a population of one thousand six hundred and ten. It is situated on the Newport river, near its mouth ; it is accessible by steam- ers, and has the finest harbor in the state, the entrance to which is defended by Fort Macon. Beaufort contains the county buildings, a number of seminaries, and one or two churches. NEWBERN, At the confluence of the Neuse and Trent, was formerly the capital of the state. The river at this point, is about a mile wide, and navigable for steamers for about eight months of the year. It is the capital of Craven county, and contains the county buildings, a number of churches, a theater, two banks, and several printing offices. RALEIGH, The capital of the state, occupying an elevated and healthy situation, has a population of four thousand seven hundred and eighty. The capitol, in the center of union square, which occu- pies the center of the city, is one of the most handsome state- houses in the union. It is one hundred and sixty-six feet long, 236 THE SOUTHERN STATES. ninety-six feet wide, and cost upwards of five hundred thousand dollars. It is a granite structure, surmounted by a dome, and surrounded by massive pillars of the same material as the build- ing. In the city is an institution for the deaf and dumb, an insane asylum, a court house, two banks, several churches, a market house and two newspaper publications. SOUTH CAROLINA. South Carolina, one of the original states of the American confederacy, lies between latitude 32° and 35° 10' N., and between longitude 78° 35' and 83° 30' W. It is bounded on the north by North Carolina, on the east by the Atlantic ocean, on the south by the Atlantic ocean and Georgia, and on the west by Georgia. This state is next to Maryland, the smallest of the Southern states, but in proportion to its size one of the most populous and wealthy. It is often called the Palmetto state on account of the abundance of Palmetto trees growing within its borders. The principal minerals are gold, iron and lead. The chief rivers are the Santee, formed by the confluence of the Wateree and Congaree, the Great Pedee and Little Pedee. Table moun- tain, one of the most interesting objects in the state, has a per- pendicular elevation of eleven hundred feet above the surround- ing country, and is a noted summer resort. At the foot of the mountain is a hotel. Caesar's Head derives its name from its resembling the human head in shape. Glenn's and Limestone springs are watering places of considerable note. The climate and productions of South Carolina resemble those of southern Europe. There is more rice raised in this than any other state in the union. Large quantities of cotton are raised on the islands bordering on the coast of this state. CHARLESTON, The largest and principal city of South Carolina, has a popu- lation of forty thousand five hundred and twenty-two. The ground on which it is built lies between the Ashley and Cooper rivers. The city is symmetrically built, is about two miles in THE SOUTHERN STATES. 237 length and one and a half in breadth. The harbor of Charles- ton is defended by Forts Pinckney, Johnson, Moultrie and Sum- ter. The light house in this harbor is one hundred and twenty- five and a half feet high. The foundation of the city was laid in 1672, and was incorporated as a city in 1783. Among the educational and literary institutions of the city are the state medical college, Charleston college, the literary and philosophical society, the apprentices' association, the mercan- tile library association, the city library, a high school, and several common schools. The city contains an orphan asylum, an almshouse, several first class hotels, thirty churches, a thea- tre, two banks, and several insurance offices. Charleston is a great commercial city. The principal exports are cotton and rice. It exports more rice than any other city in the union, and the exportation of cotton is rivaled only by Mobile and New Orleans. COLUMBIA, The capital of South Carolina, is situated at the head of nav- igation on the Congaree river. It streets are one hundred feet wide and bordered with ornamental trees. The South Carolina college is a brick structure three stories high and two hundred and fifteen feet long. The capitol has a front one hundred and seventy feet by sixty deep. The city contains, besides these, a court house, insane asylum, three banks, a market house, a number of churches, a theological school, several seminaries and printing offices. GEORGETOWN, A port of entry, is finely located on the west coast of Wingan bay. A short distance above the site of the town is the conflu- ence of the Great Pedce, Black, and Waccamau rivers, the united waters of which render the position advantageous for trade. It has a population of one thousand seven hundred and twenty, and contains several churches and seminaries, a court house, a bank, and publishes two newspapers. 238 THE SOUTHERN STATES. CAMDEN, A flourishing town of south Carolina, situated at the head of navigation on the Wateree river, has a population of one thous- and six hundred and twenty-one. It is surrounded by a fertile district, in which large quantities of cotton, corn and peaches are grown. In the town are an academy, library, bank, an arse- nal and cotton factory. GEORGIA. Georgia, one of the thirteen original states, extends between latitude 30° 21' 39" and 35° N., and between longitude 81° and 85° 53' 38" W. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee and North Carolina, on the east by South Carolina and the Atlantic ocean, on the south by Florida, and on the west by Alabama. Every variety of surface is represented in this state ; alluvial lands, swamps, undulating, rough, hilly and mountainous terri- tory. The principal rivers are, Savannah, by which the state is separated from South Carolina ; Chattahoochee, forming part of the boundary between Georgia and Alabama ; and the Alta- maha, formed by the confluence of the Oconee and Ocmulgee. Owing to the great diversity of soil and climate, the productions are of a great variety, embracing all those common to New England, Middle and Western states. The principal minerals are gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, marble and precious stones. Among the objects of interest to those who appreciate the beau- tiful and picturesque in nature, may be mentioned the falls of Tallulah, the stream in which they occur passing through cliffs from two to three hundred feet high, the Toccaso, Amicolah, Towaligo, Eastateah and Stochoa falls, Nicojack, Willson's and Nix's caves, Track Rock, and Pilot mountains. SAVANNAH, The largest and most important commercial city of Georgia, is situated on the south-west bank of the Savannah river. The city is laid out regularly, the streets wide, unpaved, and shaded with India trees. At every alternate corner there is a public square, usually in a circular or ellipse form. In these squares, THE SOUTHERN STATES. 239 also, are India trees growing. Broad and Bay streets have a carriage way on each side, and a grassy promenade in the middle. The principal public buildings are Oglethorpe and St. An- drew's halls, the court house, jail, state arsenal, artillery armory, theatre, lyceum, city exchange, Chatham academy and custom house. Savannah has sixteen churches, a Hebrew synagogue, a historical society, several reading rooms, numerous private schools, a library of six thousand volumes, five banks, an orphan asylum, hospital, infirmary, a seamen's friend society, a Hiber- nian society, a free school, and publishes five daily newspapers. (See views of Savannah.) AUGUSTA, A flourishing city of Georgia and county seat of Richmond county, at the head of navigation on Savannah river, has a pop- ulation of twelve thousand four hundred and ninety-three. Among the important buildings are Richmond academy, a medical college, the city hall, a hospital, arsenal, six banks, five newspaper offices and fourteen churches. A bridge crossing the river at this point connects Augusta with Hamburg, South Carolina. COLUMBUS, A handsome city of Georgia and capital of Muscogee county, is on the east bank of the Chattahoochee river. The city is laid out in oblong blocks, in each of which there are eight square lots. The city extends a mile and a half along the river with a breadth of half a mile. It has a population of nine thousand six hundred and twenty one, a court house, an orphan asylum, several churches, excellent schools, and about one hundred and fifty stores. MILLEDGEVILLE, The capital of Georgia, situated on the Oconee river, has a population of two thousand four hundred and eighty. The city contains a fine gothic state house, a penitentiary, a state arsenal, a bank, an academy, five churches, and publishes five newspapers. 240 THE SOUTHERN STATES. ATLANTA Is about seven miles from the Chattahoochee river, on a line of railroad leading from Savannah to Chattanooga and Nash- ville, Tennessee. It was laid out in 1845, since which time it has increased in population and wealth until it is now one of the most important cities in northern Georgia, and has a population of nine thousand five hundred and fifty four. It was recaptured from the rebels in September, 1864, by General Sherman. FLORIDA. Florida, the most southern state in the union, extends between latitude 25° and 31° K, and between longitude 80° and 87° 44' W. It is bounded on the north by Georgia and Alabama, on the east and south by the Atlantic ocean, and on the west by the Gulf of Mexico and Alabama. The surface is generally level, no portion being more than three hundred feet above the level of the sea. The southern part, called the everglades, is covered with water. This tract is about one hundred and sixty miles long, by sixty broad. This state has a greater extent of seacoast than any other in the union. The principal rivers are the Appalachicola, Suwanee, and St. Johns. About twelve miles from Tallahassee, a beautiful lake is formed by a spring bursting from a vast depth. The lake is remarkably transparent, and the water nearly as cold as ice during the hottest weather. Some of these springs in which the state abounds, have sufficient force to turn a mill. PENSACOLA, The county seat of Escambia county, is situated on the Pen- sacola bay. The harbor of Pensacola is one of the safest in the Gulf of Mexico, and is strongly fortified. It has a population of two thousand eight hundred and seventy-six, and contains a market-house, custom-house, several churches, three newspaper offices, a United States naval station, and a marine hospital. KEY WEST, On Key West island, is the most populous city in the state. It was first settled in 1822. It now has a population of two THE SOUTHERN STATES. 241 thousand eight hundred and thirty-two. Its harbor is defended by Fort Taylor. It has no regular communication with the main land, except by steamers which enter its harbor once a week from Charleston and Savannah. About thirty thousand bushels of salt are made annually by solar evaporation. ST. AUGUSTINE, County seat of St. John's county, is situated in the eastern part of the state, on the Atlantic ocean. It is one of the largest places in the state and is the oldest city in the union. It was founded in 1565 by the Spaniards, and is built on a plain only a few feet above the level of the sea. The streets are narrow, most of the houses two stories, the upper of which projects over the street. The harbor is defended by Fort Marion, which is more than a hundred years old. It was erected by the Span- iards, and formerly called the Castle of St. Marcus. The climate is mild, and the date-palm, the orange, olive and lemon thrive in this locality. In the town are about five hun- dred dwellings, one thousand nine hundred and fourteen inhabi- tants, a United States land office, court house, a newspaper office, three Protestant churches, and a Roman Catholic cathedral, the oldest in America, supposed to be three hundred years old. (See views of St. Augustine.) ALABAMA. Alabama extends between latitude 30° 10" and 35° N., and between longitude 85° and 88° 30' west. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, on the east by Georgia, on the south by Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by Mississippi. The Alleghany mountains terminate in the northern part of this state. The centre is rough and hilly. The region along the coast is level. The principal minerals are coal, iron, lead, marble and limestone. The most important rivers are the Mo- bile, Alabama, Tombigbee and Tennessee, all of which are navi- gable for steamboats to some extent. The climate and productions of Alabama closely resemble those of the tropical regions. It is one of the leading cotton 16 242 THE SOUTHERN STATES. growing states. The other principal productions are corn, sweet potatoes, rice and lumber. The state formerly belonged to Georgia, and with it was included in the Mississippi territory. It was admitted into the union as a state in 1819. MOBILE, The largest and most populous city of Alabama, is situated on Mobile river, just above its entrance into the bay of the same name. Mobile is second only to New Orleans in the exporta- tion of cotton. It exports, besides the productions of Alabama, a large portion of those of Mississippi. The streets of the city are wide and ornamented with shade trees. Mobile contains Spring Hill college, a marine hospital, two orphan asylums, a theatre and several newspaper offices, banks, churches and acade- mies. A custom house is being constructed at a cost of three hundred thousand dollars. It has a population of twenty-nine thousand two hundred and fifty-eight. MONTGOMERY, A flourishing city and capital of Alabama, is situated on the Alabama river. It possesses greater facilities for communica- tion with the surrounding country than any other city of the southern states. The waters of the Alabama never freeze, and are navigable for large steamboats all seasons of the year. The capital was removed from Tuscaloosa to this place in 1847. The city has a population of eight thousand eight hundred and forty- three, and contains beside the state buildings a bank and several newspaper offices. TUSCALOOSA, A flourishing town, situated on the Black Warrior river, was formerly the capital of Alabama. It is one of the principal towns of the state, and is noted for its active trade and literary institutions. It contains the state university, the buildings of which are pleasantly located about a half a mile from the river, and cost about one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, the state lunatic asylum, United States land office, a number of churches and newspaper offices, and several academies. It has a population of three thousand nine hundred and eighty-nine. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 243 HUNSTVILLE, A beautiful and thriving town, county seat of Madison county, Alabama, is on the Memphis and Charleston railroad. The court house, a handsome brick building, cost upwards of forty-five thousand dollars. The town has a population of three thousand six hundred and eighty-four, and contains a bank, United States land office, several churches, two female seminaries, one of which cost twenty thousand dollars, and publishes three newspapers. MISSISSIPPI. Mississippi, the ninth in order of the southern states, extends between latitude 30° 20' and 35° N., and between longitude 88° 12' and 91° 40' W. It is bounded on the north by Tennes- see, on the east by Alabama, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and Louisiana, and on the west by Louisiana and Arkansas. To this state belong a number of islands in the gulf, the prin- cipal of which are Ship, Deer and Horn islands. Though there are eighty-eight miles of sea coast, the state affords no good harbors. The eastern and central parts of the state are elevated table lands, descending toward the Mississippi river. The north- ern and southern portions are undulating and rolling. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, which forms the boundary between this state and Arkansas and a part of Louisiana, the Pearl, Black, Yazoo, and the Pascagoula. The chief produc- tions are cotton, Indian corn, rice, sweet potatoes, sugar, peaches, figs and oranges. Mississippi was admitted into the union as a state in 1817, from which it seceded in 1861, and joined the confederate states. The principal cities are Natchez, Vicksburg, Jackson and Columbus. NATCHEZ, The largest and most important city of the state, is built on a bluff a hundred and fifty feet high which forms the bank of the river. The city derived its name from a noted tribe of Indians who peopled this part of the country. Natchez has thirteen thousand five hundred and fifty-three inhabitants, and elegant 244 THE SOUTHERN STATES. mansions, to some of which are attached orange groves. The city contains eight churches, a court house, jail, United States marine hospital, orphan asylum, masonic hall, two daily papers, numerous seminaries and flourishing public schools. It was settled by the French in 1716, and burned by the Indians in 1729. JACKSON, A thriving town and capital of Mississippi, is situated on the Pearl river. The town is built upon a plain, and symmetrically laid out. It has a population of three thousand one hundred and ninety-nine, and contains the state lunatic asylum, a United States land office, several churches, the executive mansion and a fine state house, constructed at a cost of more than half a million of dollars. VICKSBURG, The capital of Warren county, is located on the Mississippi river, and is of more commercial importance than any other city between Natchez and Memphis. There are four thousand five hundred and ninety-one inhabitants. It contains the county buildings, several academies and five churches. It was captured from the rebels by General Grant, after a long and obstinate defense, on the 4th of July, 1863. COLUMBUS, A flourishing post-town and county seat of Lowndes county, is on the Tombigbee river. It has a population of three thou- sand three hundred and eight. It contains the county buildings, a United States land office, newspaper office and several churches. LOUISIANA. Louisiana, one of the southern states, extends between lati- tude 29° and 33° N., and between longitude 88° 50' and 94° 20' W. It is bounded on the north by Arkansas, on the east by Mississippi, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by Texas. A large part of the state is below high water level, .and is protected from inundations by dykes, called levees. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 245 The staple productions are cotton and sugar cane, and of the latter Louisiana produces about nine-tenths of the whole amount raised in the union. Tobacco, rice, oranges, figs, peaches and bananas are also raised in large quantities. The natural advantages for internal commerce which this state possesses are not rivaled by any other state or country on the globe. Steamers run from the Gulf of Mexico to the falls of St. Anthony on the Mississippi, to the foot of the Rocky mountains on the Missouri, and to the eastward on the Ohio, Cumberland, and Tennessee, carrying to her the production of fourteen states. The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Red, and Washita. The Mississippi, the largest river of North America and the longest in the world, takes its rise in the northern part of Min- nesota, in Itasca lake, flows in a south-easterly course and empties into the Gulf of Mexico. It is two thousand nine hun- dred and eighty-six miles in length. It is navigable for large steamers to the falls of St. Anthony, a distance of two thousand two hundred miles. This river separates Iowa, Missouri, Ar- kansas, and a part of Minnesota and Louisiana on the west from Illinois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and the greater part of Wiscon- sin and Mississippi on the east. The delta of the Mississippi has formed most of the lower part of Louisiana, and has advanced several leagues since the city of New Orleans has been built. The delta is a hundred and fifty miles wide, and contains an area of fourteen thousand square miles. The chief cities are New Orleans, Baton Rouge, and Natch- itoches. NEW ORLEANS, The great commercial metropolis of the south-west, is called the Crescent city from its location on a bend of the Mississippi. It exports more cotton than any other city in the world, and not only the productions of Louisiana, but a considerable part of those of the Mississippi valley. The population of the city num- bers one hundred and sixty-eight thousand eight hundred and twenty-three. The public buildings of New Orleans are among the best and most extensive in the United States. The United 246 THE SOUTHERN STATES. States custom house is exceeded in size by no building in the United States except the national capitol. The United States branch mint is a massive structure two hundred and eighty-two feet long and one hundred and eight feet wide and three stories high. The Municipal hall is an elegant structure in the Grecian style of architecture. Among other remarkable public buildings are the Odd Fellows' hall, Merchants' exchange, the Charity hospital, United States naval hospital, a Medical college, and numerous schools. The city also contains about forty churches and three Jewish synagogues. On account of the marshy nature of the soil on which the city is built, there are no cellars under the houses, and no excava- tions for the interment of the dead can be made, and they are deposited in tombs or ovens above ground. New Orleans was settled in 1717 by the French, and named in honor of the Duke of Orleans, regent of France during the minority of Louis XV. BATON ROUGE, The capital of Louisiana, is situated on the Mississippi, about one hundred and thirty miles above New Orleans. The site of the city is a bluff elevated about twenty-five feet above high water mark, and one of the healthiest towns in the southern portion of the Mississippi valley. Baton Rouge became the cap- ital of the state in 1847, since which time the population and value of property has increased and business become more active. The population of the city numbers five thousand four hundred and twenty-eight. TEXAS. Texas, the largest state in the union, and the most south- western of the southern states, formerly belonged to Mexico. It extends between latitude 25° 50' and 36° 30' N., and between longitude 93° 30' and 107° W. It is bounded on the north by Kansas and the Indian territory, on the east by Arkansas and Louisiana, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and Mexico, and on the west by Mexico and New Mexico. THE SOUTHERN STATES. 247 This state embraces every variety of surface, mountains, val- leys, hills, plains, table lands and deserts. Only about one half of the state is settled. The western part is occupied by the In- dians, and large herds of buffalo and wild horses roam over the unsettled regions. Texas abounds in minerals, and being so near the rich silver mines of Mexico and New Mexico may yet, possibly, yield rich supplies of this metal. The staple productions are cotton, corn, sugar, tobacco and rice. Oranges, lemons, and other tropical fruits are grown with much success in this state. Camels were at one time introduced into this state for the purpose of traveling across the desert between Texas and the Pacific ocean. The towns of Texas are not large. Austin is the capital and Galveston and Houston are the most important towns. San Antonio is the oldest in the state. AUSTIN, The capital of Texas and county seat of Travis county, is situated on the Colorado river. It has a population of three thousand four hundred and ninety-six, and contains besides the county and state buildings, several stores and printing offices. It became the capital in 1844. GALVESTON, The most populous and principal commercial town of Texas and capital of Galveston county, is pleasantly located on an island of the same name. It has the best harbor in the state, and one of the best on the Gulf of Mexico, carries on an active trade and contains a town hall, several large hotels, eight churches, a fine market house, and publishes several newspapers. It has a population of seven thousand three hundred and seven, and was first settled in 1837. HOUSTON, Shire town of Harris county, situated on Buffalo bayou, has a population of four thousand eight hundred and forty-five. It is the second town in commercial importance in the state, and the principal shipping port for an extensive and very fertile section 248 THE SOUTHERN STATES. of country. The city was at one time the capital of Texas. It contains a machine shop, an iron foundry, a hat factory and several newspaper offices. SAN ANTONIO, A flourishing post town of Bexar county, on the San Antonio river, has a population of eight thousand two hundred and thirty- five. It is a wealthy town, and contains many elegant residences, a United States arsenal, several churches and seminaries, and publishes two newspapers. In this town is the Alamo fortress, renowned in the history of the state, where a band of Texans defended themselves for two weeks against a Mexican force of four thousand strong. CHAPTER IV. THE WESTERN STATES. OHIO. The first white settlement in Ohio was made April 7th, 1788, by a company from New England. In 1781 a territorial gov- ernment was established over this region, called the territory north-west of the Ohio river, from which, in 1802, the present state of Ohio was separated. The surface of the state, though not mountainous, is elevated in some places ten thousand feet above the level of the sea, and in other portions from six hundred to eight hundred feet. The northern part of the state is drained by Lake Erie, the southern by the Ohio river. The tributaries of the Ohio are much larger than those of Lake Erie. The Ohio river forms the entire southern boundary of the state, giving it access to the commerce of the great Mississippi valley. Its principal tributaries in Ohio are the Muskingum, Scioto, and Miami. These rivers vary in length from one hundred and ten to two hundred miles. The chief rivers of the northern slope are the Maumee, the Sandusky, Huron and Cuyahoga. Lake Erie forms the northern and north- eastern boundary of the state for about one hundred and fifty miles. At the west end of the lake are the Maumee and San- dusky bays, besides several small islands belonging to the state. Large stones, called boulders, are found on the plains of Ohio, and of several of the western states. These boulders are some- times very large ; they differ in character from the rocks of the surrounding country, and have evidently been brought from a distance. They appear to have been transported from their original resting place by the icebergs of an early sea, and dropped at random as the ice melted. 250 THE "WESTERN STATES. At Bryan, in Williams county, there is a natural fountain, supposed to proceed from a subterranean lake. The supply is never affected by droughts or rain, and small fish are sometimes thrown up. The celebrated white sulphur fountain is situated on the Scioto, eighteen miles above Columbus. It rises from the bed of the Scioto through solid rock. It was first discovered in 1820, while boring for salt water. The operators had pierced a hole about two and one half inches in diameter, through about ninety feet of solid rock, when the auger suddenly fell two feet, and there gushed up with great force a stream of strong white sulphur water. The water, which is pure, is supposed to be forced up by its own gas. It leaves on the ground, near the spring, a heavy white deposit. " The source of Cold creek is a beautiful and curious flooding spring, rising from a level prairie at the village of Castalia. This spring is about two hundred feet in diameter, and sixty feet deep. The water is so pure that the smallest particle can be seen at the bottom, and when the sun is in the meridian, all the objects at the bottom, logs, stumps, etc., reflect the hues of the rainbow, forming a view of great beauty. The constituents of the water are lime, soda, magnesia, and iron, and it petrifies all objects, such as grass, stumps, bushes, moss, etc., with which it comes in contact. The stream courses about three miles through the prairie, and empties into Lake Erie. The water is very cold, but never freezes, and at its point of entrance into the lake, prevents the formation of ice. Upon it are the well known Cas- talia and Cold creek mills, the water wheels of which are imper- ishable from decay, in consequence of their being incrusted by petrifaction." The climate in the southern part of the state is mild. The summers are warm and regular, but subject at times to severe drought. In the northern part of the state the winters are probably as severe as in the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. In agricultural products Ohio stands among the first. The soil is fertile, especially on the river bottoms. Coal is abundant ; it is found in twenty counties in the state. THE WESTERN STATES. 251 COLUMBUS, The capital of Ohio, is situated on the east bank of the Scioto river, ninety miles from its mouth. The surrounding country is rich and populous. The site of Columbus is level ; the streets are wide and laid out with great neatness and regularity. It has many elegant public buildings, among which are a new state house, the Ohio lunatic asylum, the institution for the blind, the asylum for the deaf and dumb, and the Ohio penitentiary. The city was laid out in 1812, and incorporated in 1816. Its popu- lation in 1860 numbered eighteen thousand five hundred and fifty-four. The other important places are Cincinnati, Cleve- land, Dayton, Toledo, Zanesville, Sandusky, Chillicothe, Hamil- ton, and Springfield. CINCINNATI, Called the Queen of the West, is the largest city in the state. It is situated on the right bank of the Ohio river, one hundred and twenty miles south-west of Columbus. It is situated near the eastern extremity of a valley, about three miles in diameter, surrounded by beautiful hills, some of which rise about four hundred feet above the river. A lovely view of the city and valley is obtained from the summit of these hills. Cincinnati is remarkable for its rapid growth. It was first settled in 1788. It seems to have been originally laid out with great regularity. A large proportion of the entire valley is already built up, and the central and business portion is com- pactly and finely built with large warehouses, stores and handsome dwellings ; but the outer portion is but partially built up, the streets being irregular and the houses scattered. The streets are wide, with sidewalks paved with brick and stone, and many of them lined with shade trees. The city contains one hundred and five churches, five colleges, three of which are medical, eighteen common schools, two intermediate, and three high schools. The charity institutions of the city are highly respect- able. Under its control and support, are a house of refuge, an infirmary, a dispensary, and a lunatic asylum. Its population in 1864, was about one hundred and eighty-six thousand. 252 THE WESTERN STATES. CLEVELAND Is situated on the southern shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river, one hundred and thirty miles north-east of Columbus, and two hundred and fifty-five miles from Cincin- nati. It is one of the most beautiful towns in the union. Near- ly all of the city is situated on a gravelly plain, elevated about one hundred feet above the lake, of which it has a most com- manding prospect. A public square of about ten acres occupies the center of the town. The court-house and one or two churches front on this square. In the center stands the statue of Commodore Perry, the hero of the battle of Lake Erie. It is the largest marble statue in the United States, and was erect- ed by the citizens at a cost of eight thousand dollars. The public schools of Cleveland rank among the first in the country. It has twenty primary schools, twenty secondary, twenty- three intermediate, nine grammar, and two high schools. The high schools are handsome edifices of stone and brick. The course of study prescribed fits the graduate to enter college without further preparation. Cleveland was settled in 1796, and incorporated in 1836. In 1860 the population was forty-three thousand four hundred and seventeen. Since 1862, the population has rapidly increased, and in 1865, it was not less than sixty thousand. DAYTON Is situated on the east bank of the great Miami river, at the mouth of Mad river, sixty-seven miles west of Columbus, and fifty-two miles from Cincinnati. The town is laid out with streets one hundred feet wide, crossing each other at right angles. The public buildings are fine, and the city also contains many elegant private residences. The court-house, which cost the city one hundred and seventy thousand dollars, is one of the finest in the western states. The abundant water power which Dayton possesses, is one of the chief elements of its prosperity. It is extensively engaged in manufactures. In 1866 its population was about thirty thousand. THE WESTERN STATES. 253 TOLEDO Is situated at the western extremity of Lake Erie, on an ele- vated plain on the left bank of the Maumee river, about four miles from its mouth, one hundred and thirty-four miles north- west of Columbus, and one hundred and twelve miles west of Cleveland. At this point the river expands into a broad and beautiful harbor, affording accommodations for the largest vessels and steamers. The city stretches along the river for more than a mile, and has two points at which business centres, called the upper and lower landing. It was originally two distinct settle- ments. At these two points the stores, warehouses and dwell- ings are thickly crowded together, but between them it is rather thinly settled. It was incorporated as a city in 1836. The population in 1865 was between eighteen and twenty thousand. ZANESVILLE Is situated on the east bank, in a bend of the Muskingum river, about sixty-five miles above its mouth, and fifty-four miles east of Columbus. " The river seems once to have run nearly in a right line, from which, however, it has gradually diverged to the westward, forming a horse-shoe curve, and depositing, through successive centuries, an alluvium of gravel, sand, etc., of great depth, on which Zanesville now stands." In sweeping around this curve, through the space of about one and three- fourths miles, the river falls eight or ten feet, and, by the aid of a dam, a fall of between sixteen and seventeen feet is obtained, thus furnishing very extensive water-power. Steamboats ascend from the Ohio to this point, and several of them make regular passages between Zanesville and Cincinnati. The plan of the town is regular, the streets are wide and adorned by many fine buildings. The city contains fourteen churches, and a number of well organized public schools. It was laid out in 1799. The seat of state government was removed from Chillicothe to this place in 1810, and about two years later transferred to Colum- bus. In 1860, the population was nine thousand two hundred and twenty-nine. 254 THE WESTERN STATES. SANDUSKY Is situated on Sandusky bay, about one hundred and five miles from Columbus, and sixty from Cleveland. The bay is about twenty miles long and five or six miles wide, with an aver- age depth of twelve feet, forming an excellent harbor, large enough to admit with safety vessels of all sizes, during the se- verest storms. The situation of the city is pleasant, rising gradually from the bay, and commanding a fine view of the harbor, thronged with steamboats and other vessels, taking in and discharging cargoes. The city is built upon an inexhaust- ible bed of the finest limestone, which is not only used for building purposes, but forms an important article of export. Sandusky contains many elegant churches, dwellings and ware- houses. It was laid out in 1817, under the name of Portland. In 1865, it had about fourteen thousand inhabitants. CHILLICOTHE Is situated on the west bank of the Scioto, forty-five miles south of Columbus, and ninety-three miles from Cincinnati. The site of the city is remarkably beautiful, on a plain elevated about thirty feet above the river. The Scioto winds gracefully around the north of this plain, and Paint creek flows on the south. It is enclosed by verdant and cultivated hills, which attain an altitude of about five hundred feet, forming the back- ground of a landscape which can scarcely be surpassed in the western states. The plan of the town is regular ; the streets are wide, and adorned by many handsome buildings. It was founded in 1796. In 1860 the population was seven thousand six hundred and twenty-six. HAMILTON Is situated on both sides of the Miami, twenty-two miles north of Cincinnati, and ninety miles south-west of Columbus. It is neatly built, and has an elegant public square, on which stand the county buildings. It was incorporated in 1853. Previous to that time it included only the portion on the east side of the river, that on the west being called Rossville. The population is about seven thousand nine hundred and twenty-three. THE WESTERN STATES. 255 SPRINGFIELD Is situated at the confluence of Mad river with Lagonda creek, forty-three miles west of Columbus, and eighty-four miles north-east of Cincinnati. It is considered, by many, the most beautiful town in Ohio. It is surrounded by a handsome and fertile country, and is noted for the morality and intelligence of its inhabitants. INDIANA. Indiana was settled by the French in the early part of the eighteenth century. Like other French settlements its popula- tion did not increase very rapidly until the arrival of the Amer- icans. The settlements remained without much accession to their numbers for some time after the close of the American revolution. In 1800, that portion of the United States which now comprises the states of Indiana and Illinois became a terri- torial government, and in 1816 Indiana became an independent member of the confederacy. In 1811 the American settlements were attacked by the Shawnee tribe, who committed great depre- dations. The Indians, it is said, were incited by the British, who furnished them with arms. General Harrison was sent against them, and routed them completely at Tippecanoe, but with the loss of two hundred of his own men. Indiana has no mountains or great elevations, but portions south of the White river are somewhat hilly and rugged. Nearly all of the streams empty into the Ohio, showing a general incli- nation of the surface in that direction. Most of the rivers have rich alluvial bottoms of a few miles in width. The northern part of the state is heavily timbered. Bordering on Lake Mich- igan are some sand hills about two hundred feet in hight, behind which is a region covered with pine. The climate of Indiana is somewhat milder than on the Atlan- tic coast, but subject to sudden changes. The soil is generally good, and much of it, especially on the river bottoms, very fer- tile. The country between the rivers is somewhat elevated, and the soil, though good, is not quite as fertile as on the river bottoms. 256 THE WESTERN STATES. Indiana has no foreign commerce, but Lake Michigan, bor- dering on the north-western part of the state for about forty miles, opens to it the trade of the great lakes, while the Ohio, which forms the entire southern boundary of the state, gives it access to the commerce of the Ohio and Mississippi valleys. Wyandotte cave, in Crawford county, is said to rival in extent and interest the celebrated Mammoth cave of Kentucky. In the year 1850, new chambers and galleries were discovered, abound- ing in stalactites and other calcareous concretions of great size and splendor. Previous to that time it had only been explored for about three miles. Epsom Salts cave is also quite celebrated. It is situated in the side of a hill four hundred feet high. The earth of the floor yields epsom salts, nitre, aluminous earth, and gypsum. INDIANAPOLIS, The largest city, and capital of the state, is situated on the west fork of White river, near the center of the state, one hun- dred and nine miles north-west of Cincinnati. When this place was selected for the capital of Indiana in 1820, the whole country for forty miles in every direction, was covered with a dense forest. In 1825, the seat of government was permanently established at this place. It is a regularly built and beautiful city, with a handsome state-house, court-house, jail, and state asylums for the blind, deaf and dumb, and insane. The lunatic hospital was established in 1848, and, in 1862 had two hundred and ninety- eight patients. New Albany, Evansville, Fort Wayne, Lafayette, Terre Haute, Madison, Richmond, Laporte, Jeffersonville and Logans- port, are also important places. NEW ALBANY Is situated on the right bank of the Ohio river, five miles below Louisville, and one hundred and thirty-six miles below Cincinnati. It is actively engaged in commerce. More steam- boats are built at this place than any other town on the Ohio river. In the year 1864, twenty-six steamboats were launched. THE WESTERN STATES. 257 The city is remarkable for its rapid growth. It was laid out in 1813. It now has eighteen churches, a collegiate institute, a Presbyterian theological seminary, four banks, and five large public school houses. Its population in 1865 numbered about eighteen thousand. EVANSVILLE Is situated on a high bank on the Ohio river, about two hun- dred miles below Louisville. The course of the river is here so winding that Evansville is not far from the center of the county. It is the principal shipping port for the grain and pork of south- western Indiana. The navigation of the Ohio is seldom obstructed either by drought or ice below this place. Evansville contains about thirty churches, a fine court house, five banks, one theatre, and four public halls. Its population numbers about eleven thousand five hundred. FORT WAYNE Is situated at the confluence of the St. Joseph's and St. Mary's rivers, which form the Maumee, and on the Wabash and Erie canal, one hundred and twelve miles north-east of Indianapolis. It is a town of rapid growth, and one of the most important in the state. The surrounding region is highly productive, and a large portion of the land is under cultivation. The site of the town is that of the old Twightwee village of the Miami tribe. Fort Wayne was erected by order of General Wayne, in 1794, and continued to be a military post until 1819. Its present population is about twenty thousand. LAFAYETTE Is pleasantly situated on a gradually rising ground on the left bank of the Wabash river, sixty-six miles north-west of Indian- apolis. Its situation affords a delightful view of the river and of the neighboring hills. It is a place of active trade, and one of the principal grain markets in the state. It contains a large and handsome court house which cost twenty thousand dollars, thir- teen churches, some of which are large and handsome buildings, four banks, two of which are national, two academies and four 17 258 THE WESTERN STATES. public schools, one of which is a fine structure, having recently been completed at a cost of about twenty thousand dollars. Its population in 1860 numbered nine thousand three hundred and eighty-seven. TERRE HAUTE Is situated on the east bank of the Wabash river, seventy- three miles south-west of Indianapolis. The situation of the city is remarkably beautiful. The bank upon which the town is built is elevated about sixty feet above the river. The streets of the city are wide and bordered with numerous shade trees. The opposite banks of the river are connected by a fine bridge, over which the national road passes. Fort Harrison prairie, on the west border of which the town stands, is very fertile, and noted for its beautiful landscapes. The city contains a fine court house, a town hall, three banks, a large academy, and about twelve churches ; also the State Normal school, which is one of the finest architectural structures in the state. Its pop- ulation numbers about ten thousand six hundred. MADISON Is situated on the Ohio river, in a valley about three miles in length, which is enclosed on the north by steep and rugged hills about four hundred feet high. It is actively engaged in steam- boat trade. The navigation of the river below this place is usually open all winter. The city is handsomely laid out and well built. It contains a fine court house, three public halls, thirteen churches, a United States hospital, four banks, and three large public schools. In 1865 its population was about fourteen thousand. RICHMOND Is pleasantly situated on the east fork of Whitewater river. More labor is employed in this place in the manufacture of cot- ton, wool, paper, flour, and iron than in any other city in the state. The Indiana yearly meeting of the society of Friends is THE WESTERN STATES. 259 held at this place. The surrounding country is the most popu- lous and highly cultivated in the state. Its population in 1860 was about six thousand six hundred. LAPORTE Is situated on the border of a beautiful and highly cultivated prairie of the same name, twelve miles from Lake Michigan. It is a place of active trade. It contains the Indiana medical col- lege, an academy and a bank. Its population in 1860 was about five thousand, but in consequence of its rapid growth, the census of 1870 will most likely nearly double that number. JEFFERSONVILLE Is situated on the Ohio river, nearly opposite Louisville. " The situation is elevated, and commands a delightful view of the city of Louisville, of the broad and winding river with its verdant islands, and a range of hills a few miles distant." It contains eight churches, one bank, three United States hos- pitals, and one of the state prisons of Indiana. LOGANSPORT Is situated on the Wabash river and canal, at the mouth of Eel river, seventy miles north-west of Indianapolis. The city is actively engaged in trade. It has valuable water power which is employed in manufactures to some extent. The city was laid out in 1827. It now contains eight churches, two academies, one bank, and a court house built of hewn stone, one of the finest in the state. The population numbers about five thousand. ILLINOIS. In 1673, Marquette, a French traveler, visited Illinois, and in the latter part of the seventeenth century, settlements were made by the French at Cahokia and Kaskaskia. These, however, like other French colonies, did not increase rapidly. In 1800, in connection with Indiana, it formed a part of a sep- arate territory, called Indiana. In 1809, the present state was organized as the territory of Illinois, and in 1818 it was admit- ted into the union. Since that time its population has increased 260 THE WESTERN STATES. very rapidly. According to the census of 1860, it numbered one million seven hundred and eleven thousand seven hundred and fifty-three. The state is generally level, having few hills, and no moun- tains. There are elevated bluffs on the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, also a small tract of hilly country in the southern part of the state. The lowest portion is about three hundred and forty feet, and the highest only eight hundred feet above the Gulf of Mexico. A large portion of the state consists of prairie land. The scenery of Illinois presents few bold and striking fea- tures, yet it is not entirely without attractions. The prairies are not generally flat, but gracefully undulating, and covered with waving grass, and a profusion of lovely wild flowers. For quiet landscape beauty they are unsurpassed, and a person unac- customed to prairie land, perhaps might find no object of natural scenery as interesting as these. Along the rivers are bluffs which, in rugged grandeur, almost rival mountain scenery. The most remarkable of these are on the Mississippi river, and are from one hundred to four hundred feet high. One of these, called Fountain Bluff, is of an oval shape, six miles in circuit, and three hundred feet high. The top of this bluff is full of sink-holes, or depressions in the surface of the ground. There are two eminences on the Illinois river, one of which is called Starved Rock, the other, Lover's Leap. Perhaps ' Thirsty Rock' would be a more appropriate name for the former. It received its name from a band of Illinois Indians having taken refuge here, who, being surrounded by the Pottawatomies, all died, not of starvation, but of thirst. It is a perpendicular mass of limestone, situated about eight miles below Ottawa, and one hundred and fifty feet above the river. Lover's Leap, consisting of a ledge of precipitous rocks, is situated some distance above Starved Rock. In Hardin county, on the Ohio river, there is a cave, the entrance to which is but a little above the bed of the river. This cave slopes gradually from its entrance for about one hundred and eighty feet, when a second entrance leads to another cave, the dimensions of which are not known. This THE WESTERN STATES. 261 cave was, in 1797, the abode of a band of robbers, "who were the terror of Ohio boatmen. Since that time several bands of robbers have taken refuge in this cave. A large portion of the great lead region is in the limits of Illinois. The coal-fields of Illinois are estimated to occupy an area of about forty-four thousand square miles. Bituminous coal is found in almost every county, and a bed of anthracite coal is reported to have been discovered in Jackson county. Copper, lime, zinc, marble, free-stone, gypsum, and quartz crys- tals are also found. The state contains several medicinal springs, one of which, in Jefferson county, is much resorted to. Lake Michigan forms the north-eastern boundary of the state for about sixty miles, and adds greatly to its commercial import- ance. The Mississippi forms the entire western boundary, and the Ohio the southern, thus giving it access to the commerce of these great valleys. The Wabash forms its eastern boundary for about three hundred miles. The other principal rivers are the Illinois, Rock, Sangamon, and Kaskaskia. The Illinois is formed by the union of the Des Plaines and Kankakee rivers. It has a very sluggish current, and in times of freshets the waters of the Mississippi back up into it for about seventy miles. It is navigable at all times for about two hundred and eighty-six miles, and at high water, for some distance farther. Rock river is about three hundred and twenty miles in length. The current is obstructed by rapids in several places, but at a moderate expense it might be made navigable. Already the subject has been much agitated, and probably at no distant day, the improvement of the river will begin. It flows through an extensive plain noted for its fertility and beautiful scenery. The Sangamon is about two hundred miles in length. It is nav- igable for small steamboats at high water. The Kaskaskia, a fine, navigable stream, is about three hundred miles in length. The climate of Illinois is somewhat milder than that of the Atlantic states in the same latitude. Its great length gives it considerable variation in climate. Its agricultural capabilities are unsurpassed by any state in the union. In some of the 262 THE WESTERN STATES. river bottoms the soil is twenty-five feet deep, and the upland prairies are nearly, if not quite, as fertile. On the formation of the state constitution, one section in each township was appropriated to the support of common schools, and subsequently an additional income of three per cent, on the proceeds from the sale of the public lands within the state. In the year 1853, the school fund yielded ah income of two hun- dred and ninety-nine thousand and forty-seven dollars. Illinois has a state lunatic asylum at Jacksonville, a state pen- itentiary at Joliet, and a deaf and dumb asylum at Jacksonville. SPRINGFIELD, The capital, is situated three miles south of the Sangamon river. The streets are wide and straight. A new state house has been erected. Besides this, the town contains a court-house, four banks, a state arsenal, thirteen churches, and several acade- mies. Springfield will ever be memorable as having been the residence of Abraham Lincoln, late president of the United States. (See view.) The other important places are Chicago, Peoria, Quincy, Galena, Belleville, Alton, Rockford, Bloomington, Ottawa, Auro- ra, Lincoln, Rock Island and Galesburg. CHICAGO, The largest city, and the most important commercial center of the north-western states, is situated in the north-eastern part of the state, on Lake Michigan. The city is built on the lake shore, and along the banks of the Chicago river and its two branches, its limits extending westward for about five miles. The city has, within the last thirty-five years, risen from a small military post or fur station, till now it is the great metrop- olis of the northwestern states, and the largest interior city of the United States. In 1833, the site of the city, together with the land which now forms the states of Illinois and Wisconsin, was purchased from the Indians. Walking in the imposing THE WESTERN STATES. 263 streets of the Chicago of to-day, it is difficult to realize that thirty-five years have not elapsed since the red men were dis- possessed of the very site on which the city now stands. The prairie on that part of the shore of Lake Michigan appears to the eye flat as the lake itself, and its average hight above the lake is not more than six feet. The entire business portion of the city has, during the last ten years, been raised from six to eight feet above its former level. This greatly facil- itates drainage, besides rendering it possible to have dry cellars for store houses. The grading and filling up, and raising the buildings to the new grade, cost the city upwards of a million of dollars. The river was originally but a small creek, that emptied into the lake ; the inlet was twenty feet deep, but the mouth was obstructed by a sand-bar, and it only admitted vessels of thirty or forty tons. In 1833, the United States spent thirty thous- and dollars in improving the harbor, and in 1834 a freshet swept away the bar at the mouth of the river, making it access- ible to the largest ships that sail the lakes. At the present time, over nine hundred vessels, carrying in all, upwards of two hun- dred thousand tons, and employing about ten thousand sailors, ply between Chicago and the other lake ports. In the winter, after navigation is closed, four hundred vessels may be counted in the harbor, frozen up safely in the ice. Vessels can ascend the river a distance of five or six miles on the south branch, and from four to five on the north branch. Along the river and its branches, are immense warehouses, some of which are capable of storing one million five hundred thousand bushels of grain. Miles of timber yards extend along one of the forks, and the harbor is choked by arriving and departing vessels. (See views of Chicago river.) The people of Chicago have had a long and severe struggle with their river, and they have not yet made a complete conquest of it. The river and its two forks so divide the town, that it is impossible to go far in any direction without crossing one of them. In old times, the Indians carried people over in their canoes. In course of time, the canoes expanded into commodious row boats; next floating bridges were tried; 264 THE WESTERN STATES. afterwards draw-bridges came into use, seventeen of which now span the river. These draw-bridges are rather in the way at present. Unfavorable winds sometimes detain vessels on the lake, until three hundred of them are waiting to enter. When the wind changes, the whole fleet comes streaming in, each towed by a puffing and snorting little tug-boat. Occasionally the bridges can be closed for a few moments, and then there is a tremendous rush to cross the river. These are exceptional cases, and some days the bridges are seldom opened ; but as it is, they are a great inconvenience ; however, this will soon be a thing of the past. Already one tunnel has been constructed (see view No. 40,) at a cost of two hundred thousand dollars, and in a short time these seventeen maddening draw-bridges will have been superseded by seventeen tunnels. The streets of Chicago are regular, and nearly all of them eighty feet wide. The city is laid out in rectangular blocks. (See views from the dome of city hall.) The principal streets are now paved with Nicholson pavement, or wooden blocks, which are found to be more durable than stone pavement. The business portion of the city was formerly built mostly of brick, but this is now almost entirely superseded by " Athens marble." An inexhaustible quarry of this stone was discovered by some workmen while digging a canal at Athens, a point about fourteen miles south-west of the city. It is soft, and of a light cream color. At first it was regarded as useless, but it was afterwards found to harden on exposure to the air, and it is now recognized as the very best and most elegant building material in the country. It possesses the virtue of being easily worked when first quarried, but is hard in the finished wall. The general use of this light colored stone gives to the principal streets of Chicago a cheerful, light and airy appearance. (See street views of Chicago.) The principal public buildings are the city hall, built of stone brought from Lockport, New York, (see view,) and chamber of commerce, built of Athens stone. (See views.) This is an ele- gant, spacious apartment, decorated with fine fresco paintings by resident Italian artists. It is ninety-three feet in width, one THE WESTERN STATES. 265 hundred and eighty feet long and one hundred feet high. It cost the city about four hundred thousand dollars. Among the elegant church edifices are the First and Second Presbyterian, the latter of which is built of a dark oily stone, dug out of the prairie immediately west of the city ; Trinity, St. James, Church of the Redeemer, Methodist, First Unitarian, Church of the Holy Name, Church of the Holy Family, Unity, and New Eng- land. (See views.) Tremont and Sherman houses are among the first class hotels. (See views.) Among the other prominent buildings are Potter Palmer's building, Crosby's opera house and the custom house. (See views.) The city contains three large book stores, the shelves of which are crowded with the best literature. (See views.) " Along the lake, south of the river, extend the beautiful ave- nues which change insensibly into those streets of cottages and gardens which have given to Chicago the name of the ' Garden City.' ' (See avenue views.) " This is a pleasant umbrageous quarter where glimpses are caught of the blue lake that stretches away to the east for sixty miles." There are seventeen public schools and a high school in Chi- cago, which are among the very best in the United States. The buildings are large, handsome and convenient. (See views.) The attendance at the high school ranges from seven hundred to two thousand. The university, under the auspices of the Bap- tist denomination, is situated just in the outskirts of the city, in Cottage Grove. (See views.) The city is provided with water from the lake, but that near the shore is impure on account of the large amount of filth which runs out of the river. A tunnel has recently been constructed extending under the bed of the lake two miles from the shore, (See views,) so that the city is supplied with pure lake water. " The work is really something to be proud of, not for its mag- nitude, but for the simplicity, originality, and boldness of the idea." The tunnel is five feet in diameter, and cut thirty-five feet below the bed of the lake. A shaft is sunk on the shore 266 THE WESTERN STATES. eighty-seven feet deep, and an iron one nine feet in diameter in the lake at the extreme end of the tunnel. Around this shaft there is an immense crib built of heavy timber. (See views.) Chicago is the great commercial metropolis of the north-west. It is the largest interior grain market in the world, the greatest lumber market in the United States, second only to New York as a beef and cattle market, and as a beef and pork packing point it stands first in the United States. It is the center of a railroad system which includes about five thousand miles of track. Its railroad depots are immense in extent and admirably con- structed. (See views.) The great Union Central depot has under cover three quarters of a mile of track. Three trains can start from it at the same moment without the least danger of interference, and no passenger is obliged to cross a track in changing cars. No city in the United States has increased in population so rapidly as Chicago. In 1830 there resided in Chicago four white families. In 1831 there were twelve. In 1837, when the first census was taken, the entire population numbered four thousand one hundred and seventy. In 1865 it was estimated at one hundred and seventy-five thousand. PEORIA Is situated on the west bank of the Illinois river, seventy miles north of Springfield. The river here expands into a broad and deep lake, which adds greatly to the scenery of the town. A draw-bridge connects the city with the opposite shore of the river. The town is situated on rising ground, while back of it extends one of the most beautiful rolling prairies in the state. Near the center of the city a public square has been reserved. The schools and churches are prosperous, and the society good. The population in 1860 was fourteen thousand and forty-five. QUINCY Is situated on the Mississippi river, one hundred and seventy- five miles above St. Louis. The country in the vicinity is a rich THE WESTERN STATES. 267 and rolling prairie, and one of the best cultivated in the state. The city is quite extensively engaged in commerce, by means of steamboats on the Mississippi river. It has a large public square, a good court-house, twenty-four churches, ten public halls, two national banks, an armory, and four United States hospitals. Its population in 1860 numbered sixteen thousand six hundred and seventy-two. GALENA Is situated on the Fevre river, six miles from its entrance to the Mississippi river, and four hundred and fifty miles above St. Louis. The Fevre river is navigable by steamboats, which make regular passages to St. Louis, St. Paul, and other ports on the Mississippi river. The river is more properly an arm of the Mississippi, setting up between lofty bluffs, and winding around their base with picturesque effect. The streets are built one above another, and communicate by means of steps. Galena owes its growth and importance mainly to the rich mines of lead with which it is surrounded in all directions. Its population in 1860 was eight thousand one hundred and ninety-six. BELLEVILLE Is situated fourteen miles south-east from St. Louis. It is actively engaged in trade and manufactures, and growing very rapidly. Its population in 1864 numbered ten thousand. ALTON Is situated on the Mississippi river, three miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and twenty-one miles above St. Louis. Alton is one of the oldest towns in the state. It is the seat of the diocese of the Roman Catholic church for Southern Illinois. The state penitentiary was formerly located at this place, but has since been removed to Joliet. ROCKFORD Is beautifully situated on both sides of Rock river. It is a flourishing city, the center of an active business, and contains seventeen churches, seven public schools, a female seminary, and three newspaper offices. Its water power is one of the finest in 268 THE WESTERN STATES. the west, and its manufactures amount in value to about four millions of dollars per annum. Its growth since 1836 has been very rapid. Population at the present time, about twelve thousand. (See views of Rockford.) BLOOMINGTON Is situated on the Illinois Central railroad, one hundred and twenty-six miles south-west of Chicago. The State Normal University is situated two miles north of the city. It is an im- posing building, said to have cost two hundred thousand dollars. It is attended by about five hundred students. OTTAWA Is situated on both sides of the Illinois river, just below the mouth of Fox river, eighty-four miles south-west of Chicago. The Fox river, at this point, has a fall of about twenty-nine feet, producing a city water-power which is said to be unsur- passed by any in the state. In 1865 the population numbered about ten thousand. AURORA Is a flourishing city situated on the Fox river, forty miles south-west of Chicago. Population in 1864, eight thousand seven hundred and fifty. LINCOLN Is a flourishing town, situated on Salt creek, twenty-eight miles north-east of Springfield. This place, the origin of which is quite recent, was named in honor of Abraham Lincoln. Its population is about five thousand seven hundred. ROCK ISLAND Is situated on the Mississippi river, two miles above the mouth of Rock river, and one hundred and eighty-two miles south-west of Chicago. The place derives its name from an island three miles in length, the southern extremity of which is nearly oppo- site the town. This island is partly covered with woods, and affords an agreeable retreat in the heat of the summer. It presents a perpendicular front of limestone twenty or thirty feet THE WESTERN STATES. 269 high. Rock Island is remarkable for its flourishing manufac- tures. A bridge across the river connects it with Davenport, Iowa. Its population in 1865 numbered about seven thousand five hundred. GALESBURG Is situated on the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy railroad, one hundred and sixty-five miles south-west of Chicago. It is situated in a rich farming district, and has an active business. Population in 1865, about seven thousand. KENTUCKY. This state formed a part of Virginia until 1792. It was first explored by Daniel Boone in 1769. The early settlers were much annoyed by the Indians, who made frequent incursions and attacks upon their villages. Their bloody contests with these savage foes gave rise to the name of Kentucky, which means "the dark and bloody ground." The Cumberland mountains form the south-eastern boundary of the state. A range of hills runs nearly parallel with the Ohio river. West of the Cumberland river the surface is generally level ; the rest of the state is undulating and hilly. Kentucky contains much that is picturesque in her natural scenery, and many wild and striking objects. The Mammoth cave is situated about one hundred miles south-west of Louisville, in Edmondson county, in the valley of Green river. The entrance to this cave is in a ravine, two hundred feet above Green river, and one hun- dred below the table land above. The cave abounds in inter- esting objects, such as streams, mounds, stalactites, stalagmites, etc. The stalactites and stalagmites are some of them very large ; one of them, called the Temple, occupies an area of two acres, and is covered by a single dome of solid rock, one hundred and twenty feet high. Echo river, five miles from the entrance, is the deepest and widest of the rivers, being about ten feet deep and a quarter of a mile in width. The water is very transpar- ent, the sand and pebbles on the bottom being as plainly visible 270 THE WESTERN STATES. as if seen in air. The surface of the river is nearly upon a level ■with that of Green river, and it is supposed that it empties into Green river as they usually rise and fall together. Near the shore of the river the roof of the cave descends within a few feet of the surface of the water, and appears like an arch sprung from one side of the cave to the other. About half way across the river the cavern expands into immense proportions. Here is the remarkable echo which gives its name to the river. Sounds are repeated millions of times, receding at each successive echo, until they die away in the most distant chambers with a strain of melody resembling that of a wind-harp. A few miles farther on is Cleveland's Cabinet. This is an arch about twenty feet high, and twenty wide, incrusted with a thick coating of frost, through which protrude in all directions, bads, vine-tendrils, sun flowers, cactus leaves, etc.. fashioned from a material the most delicate, and all of pearly whiteness. Thirteen miles from the entrance, is Serenna's bower, a small and deep grotto, guarded by an aperture difficult of entrance. The bottom, roof, and sides, of this bower are covered with stalactite formations. In the side, about three feet from the floor, is a basin of pure water, around the edge of which the most curiously shaped pillars form, as it were, a fence for its protection. Among the other remarkable objects of the cave, are the Devil's Arm Chair, the Elephant's Head, the Lover's Leap, the Gothic Chapel, the Cinder Pile, and the Bottomless Pit. ( See views of Mammoth Cave.) There are a number of smaller caves in the state, which in almost any other place, would be considered remarkable. There are also a great many sink-holes or depressions in the surface of the ground. These metimes three hundred feet in circumference, and from sixty to seventy feet deep. They are shaped bike an inverted cone. Frequently the sound of running water can be detected beneath them, and in one or two cases openings have been made revealing subterraneous streams. A number of streams of considerable size disappear for some distance, and afterwards rise again to the surface. In Breckenridge county, there is a stream called Sinking creek, which, a few miles from its source, THE WESTERN STATES. 271 sinks beneath the surface, and does not re-appear again for sev- eral miles. In Christian county, in the midst of romantic scenery, is a natural bridge, thirty feet high and sixty feet in span. There are numerous mounds or fortifications in the state, erected, it is supposed, by a race who occupied the country at some period antecedent to the Indians. The climate of Kentucky is milder than the same latitude on the Atlantic coast, but subject to sudden changes. The soil is very fertile ; there is but a small portion of the state which is not capable of cultivation. The state is actively engaged in commerce. The Ohio forms its entire northern boundary, and the Mississippi its western, giving it access to the commerce of these great valleys. The other important rivers are the Cumberland, Tennessee, Licking, Kentucky, Salt, and Green rivers. The Cumberland rises in the south-eastern part of the state, in the Cumberland mountains. Its whole length is six hundred miles, three hundred and fifty of which passes through Kentucky. It is navigable for large steamboats as far as Nashville, Tennessee, about two hundred miles from its mouth, and small boats ascend about three hun- dred miles further. The Tennessee river crosses the western part of the state, and enters the Ohio river about forty-eight miles from its mouth. The navigation of the river is unobstruct- ed as far as Florence, at the foot of Muscle Shoals. Here it is obstructed by rapids, but above the rapids it is navigable for some distance, making, in all, about five hundred miles of navi- gable water. Licking river rises in the Cumberland mountains, pursues a north-westerly direction, and empties into the Ohio, opposite Cincinnati. It is about two hundred miles in length, and navigable for small steamboats for about fifty miles from its mouth. Kentucky river is formed by the union of three small rivers. The length of the main stream is about two hun- dred miles. Steamboats ascend as far as Frankfort, and flat- boats ascend about one hundred miles further. Salt river is formed from the union of two small rivers. It derives its name from the number of salt springs which abound near it. The main stream flows in a north-westerly direction, and empties into 272 THE WESTERN STATES. the Ohio twenty-two miles below Louisville. Green river rises in the east central part of the state. During its course it trav- erses the cavernous limestone formation and passes by Mammoth cave. It is about three hundred miles in length. The lower part of the river is navigable for steamboats at all seasons of the year, and during high water, small steamboats have ascend- ed for about two hundred miles from its mouth. FRANKFORT, The capital of Kentucky, is beautifully situated on the right bank of Kentucky river, sixty miles from its mouth and fifty- three miles east of Louisville. The city stands on an elevated plain, commanding a delightful view of the picturesque scenery for which the Kentucky river is so remarkable. The town is regularly laid out and generally well built. It contains a hand- some state house, built of Kentucky marble, quarried in the vicinity. The governor's house, a state penitentiary, a court house, six churches, one academy, and two banking houses. The population is about three thousand seven hundred. The other important places are Louisville, Covington, Newport and Lexington. LOUISVILLE Is situated on the Ohio river, one hundred and thirty miles below Cincinnati, and fifty-three miles west of Frankfort. The city stands upon a plain elevated about seventy feet above low water, and commanding a delightful view of the Ohio river and of the rapids immediately below. The city is well built and regu- larly laid out. Parallel to the river are eight handsome streets, about two miles in length, which are intersected at right angles by more than thirty different streets. The principal public buildings are the city hall, court house, medical institute and the university. Besides these the city has a marine asylum, two orphan asylums, forty churches, two syn- agogues, a prison, four banks, and four large public school houses. In 1860 the population numbered sixty-eight thousand and thirty-three. THE WESTERN STATES. 273 COVINGTON Is situated on the Ohio river, opposite Cincinnati, and just below the mouth of Licking river. It may he considered as a suburb of Cincinnati, and is laid out according to the same plan. The city contains ten churches, three banks, a large city hall, two female academies and the western theological college, which is under the direction of the Baptists. In 1860 the population was sixteen thousand four hundred and seventy-one. NEWPORT Is situated on the Ohio river, opposite from Cincinnati, and just above the mouth of Licking river, which separates it from Covington. It owes its rapid growth to its proximity to Cin- cinnati and its beautiful situation. It contains twelve churches and one bank. Its population is about ten thousand. LEXINGTON Is situated twenty-five miles south-east of Frankfort, and nine- ty-four miles east of Louisville. It was formerly the capital of Kentucky. The situation is delightful, and its general appear- ance is surpassed by few inland towns. The city contains a university, a state lunatic asylum, a court house, two banks, a public library, several academies, a museum, an orphan asylum and twelve churches. A monument is contemplated, to be erected to the memory of Henry Clay, who resided at Ashland, a mile and a half from the city. Lexington was founded in 1776, while the news of the battle of that name was fresh in the minds of its founders. In 1860 its population was nine thousand five hundred and twenty-one. TENNESSEE. The country now constituting the state of Tennessee, was originally comprised within the state of North Carolina. It was ceded to the general government in 1784, but the grant was afterwards revoked. At that time hostilities had been com- menced by the Indians ; they were without a government of their own, and unprotected by the troops of North Carolina. 18 274 THE WESTERN STATES. A large proportion of her people determined to form an inde- pendent state government, which would enable them to legally assemble a military force for defense. The new state was organized under the name of Frankland, in 1786. This gave rise to considerable trouble, and the state was finally ceded to the United States government, and formed a part of the South- western Territory until 1796, when it was admitted into the union. The state is commonly divided into three sections, East, West and Middle Tennessee. East Tennessee includes that part east of the Cumberland mountains ; Middle Tennessee that part between the Cumberland mountains and the Tennessee river ; and West Tennessee, that portion west of the Tennessee river. East Tennessee is mountainous, Middle Tennessee is hilly, and West Tennessee is level or gently undulating. The Alleghany mountains form the entire eastern boundary of the state. The Cumberland mountains enter it from Kentucky and cross it in a south-westerly direction, into Alabama. There are a number of caves in these mountains, some of them several miles in ex- tent. In one of these, four hundred feet below the surface, there was found a stream large enough to turn a mill. Another, on the top of one of the mountains, has a perpendicular descent, and its depth has never yet been ascertained. The climate of Tennessee is mild, the winters are not severe, and the summers are free from the intense heat of the Gulf States. The soil, especially in the valleys, is fertile. Some of the mountain land is not adapted to cultivation, but is favorable to grazing. The Mississippi river forms the western boundary of the state. The other important rivers are the Cumberland, which flows for about one hundred and fifty miles through Tennessee ; the Ten- nessee river, which crosses the state twice ; the Clinch, about two hundred miles in length, and navigable for about half that dis- tance, and the Holston, which is about two hundred miles in length, and navigable as far as Knoxville at all seasons of the year ; besides these, there are several smaller streams, each more or less navigable for small boats during high water. THE WESTERN STATES. 275 NASHVILLE, The capital, is situated on the left bank of the Cumberland river, two hundred miles from its mouth, and two hundred and thirty miles north-east of Memphis. It is one of the wealthiest and most populous cities of Tennessee. The city is pleasantly situated, regularly laid out, and well built. It contains many elegant private buildings. The public buildings are also among the best in the United States. The capitol is estimated to have cost one million dollars. It is built of fine limestone, quarried in the vicinity, and very nearly resembles marble. It is one of the handsomest and most costly structures in America. A large lunatic asylum has recently been erected. Besides these, the city contains a state penitentiary, a university, several female seminaries, three banks and fourteen churches. A wire suspen- sion bridge has recently been built across the Cumberland river, at a cost of one hundred thousand dollars. In 1860, the popu- lation was sixteen thousand nine hundred and eighty-eight. (See views of Nashville.) The other important places are Memphis, Knoxville, Mur- freesboro and Jackson. MEMPHIS Is beautifully situated on the Mississippi river, just below the mouth of Wolf river, and two hundred and nine miles south- west of Nashville. It is situated on a bluff about seventy feet high, and presents a very fine appearance from the river. It is rapidly increasing in population, and is full of life and commer- cial activity. It is the most populous and important city between St. Louis and New Orleans. The river is navigable for the largest ships from this point to its mouth. The city contains twenty-three public schools, eleven churches, one academy, four banks, and a telegraph office. In 1865 the population was about forty thousand. KNOXVILLE Is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Holston river, one hundred and eighty-five miles east of Nashville. The situ- ation is elevated and commands a delightful view of the river, 276 THE WESTERN STATES. which is navigable at all seasons of the year from this point downwards. The city contains an asylum for the deaf and dumb, a university, five churches, three banks, and several acad- emies. The city was laid out in 1794. In 1860 its population was about six thousand. MURFREESBORO Is situated in a beautiful plain, thirty miles south-east of Nashville. It contains a university, founded by the Baptists, a female institute, also under the direction of the Baptists, one bank, and five churches. It was formerly the capital of Ten- nessee. The population is about two thousand nine hundred. JACKSON Is situated on the Forked Deer river, one hundred and fifty miles south-west of Nashville. It is situated in the midst of a fertile region, and is actively engaged in trade. It contains a bank, two or three churches, and a flourishing college. Its population is about two thousand four hundred. ARKANSAS. Arkansas was settled by the French as early as 1685, and formed a part of the great tract purchased from France in 1803, under the name of Louisiana. It made little progress until after its formation into a territory of the United States in 1819. In 1836 it became a member of the American union. Throughout its entire length it occupies the right bank of the Mississippi, which separates it from the states of Tennessee and Mississippi, and renders it accessible to the sea from many points. Its area is about fifty-two thousand one hundred and ninety- eiwht square miles, being about two hundred and forty miles in length from north to south, and two hundred and twenty-four in breadth from east to west. The eastern part of Arkansas, for about one hundred miles back from the Mississippi, is covered with marshes, swamps and lagoons, occasionally interspersed with elevations, some of which THE WESTERN STATES. 277 are thirty miles or more in cireuit, which, when the rivers over- flow their banks, form temporary islands. In 1854, out of the equivalent thirty-three millions four hundred and six thousand seven hundred and twenty acres, only eight hundred and fifty- seven thousand one hundred and seventy-nine were cultivated, very little more than one-fourth of the whole, or one-seventh of the lands liable to taxation, as being allotted and occupied ; but since the bill passed by congress giving to the southern and western states all the overflowed swamp lands within their re- spective limits, the state of Arkansas has constructed along its entire eastern boundary levees of great strength, by means of which extensive tracts that have hitherto been entirely worth- less, have been converted into cultivable land of extraordinary fertility. In climate and productions, Arkansas occupies, as it were, an intermediate position between the states of the west and those of the south. The state is divided into two unequal parts by the Ozark mountains, of which the northern has the climate and productions of the northern states, while the southern portion resembles that of the southern states. The northern region is well adapted to grazing. It produces, also, an abundance of excel- lent wheat, and, perhaps, the finest apples in the world. This section of the country is hilly, or rolling, and is interspersed with prairie, and abounds with fine springs of excellent water. The tops of the hills and mountains are often flat or rolling, and covered with a good soil and a heavy growth of timber. Indian corn, cotton, and live stock form the staple products of the state. On the bottom lands is generally found a heavy growth of cot- ton-wood, ash, cypress, and gum. The hickory and different kinds of oak flourish in the mountainous or hilly portions. From the central part of the state southward to the Red river, pine is found in great abundance. Beech is also found in considerable abundance on the St. Francis river. Besides these are found the black walnut, cherry, red cedar, dogwood, maple, poplar, sassafras and black locust. Immense quantities of these differ- ent kinds of timber are sent down the Mississippi to New Orleans. 278 THE WESTERN STATES. Probably no state in the union is penetrated by so many nav- igable rivers as Arkansas. These rivers can only be ascended by vessels of any size, for about nine months in the year, owing to the long continued droughts which prevail in the hot season. The Arkansas is the principal river that passes wholly through the state. It enters the western border of the state from the Indian territory at Fort Smith, and sweeping almost directly through the middle of the state, after receiving a number of small tributaries, discharges its waters into the Mississippi. It is from three-eighths to half a mile wide through the last six hun- dred miles of its course, and navigable for about eight hundred miles from its mouth. The north-eastern part of the state is drained by the White river and the St. Francis with their afflu- ents. They have their sources in the Missouri and their outlet in the Mississippi. The White river is navigable for about five hundred miles, the St. Francis for three hundred miles. Besides these there are the Red river, running through the south-western angle of the state, the Washita and its numerous affluents, having an aggregate of six hundred and thirty-five miles of nav- igable water, and the little Missouri. The state has no foreign commerce, though it has considerable boating trade with New Orleans, engaged in the export of its productions. The mineral resources of the state are very extensive. The principal minerals are coal, iron, lead, zinc, manganese, gypsum, and salt. There is a celebrated quarry of oil stone near the Hot Springs, superior to any thing else of the kind known in the world. There are a great many varieties exhibiting all degrees of fineness. The quantity is said to be inexhaustible. There is in Pike county, on the Little Missouri river, a mountain of alabaster of the finest quality, and white as the driven snow. Gold is said to have been discovered in White county. Arkan- sas has more gypsum than all the other states put together, while it is equally well supplied with marble and salt. The celebrated Hot Springs are situated in a county of the same name, about sixty miles south-west of Little Rock. More than one hundred of these springs issue, at different elevations, from a point or ridge of land forming a steep bank from one THE WESTERN STATES. 279 hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high, projecting over Hot Spring creek, an affluent of the "Washita. This creek is warm enough to bathe in, even in the coldest weather. A considerable portion of the bank consists of calcareous deposits, formed from the water as it is exposed to the air. Near the top of the bank there is a fine cold spring, so near the warm springs, that a per- son can put one hand into cold, and the other into hot water at the same time. These springs are a great resort for invalids, their waters being considered particularly beneficial to persons suf- fering from rheumatism. Their temperature varies from one hundred and thirty-five to one hundred and sixty degrees. LITTLE ROCK, The capital of Arkansas, is situated on the right or southern bank of .the Arkansas river, on a rocky promontory, or bluff, about fifty feet high, commanding a delightful and extensive view of the surrounding country. In ascending the river, there appears on the south bank, rising out of the water, a bald, igneous slate rock, which, at low water, is about twenty-five feet above the surface, but at high water is almost hidden from view. This gave to the place the name of Little Rock. Two miles above this point, there is another rocky bluff about two hundred feet high, which is called Big Rock. The town contains a state house, United States arsenal, state penitentiary, and six hand- some churches. The population in 1860, was three thousand seven hundred and twenty-seven. The other important places are Camden, Fort Smith, and Pine Bluff. CAMDEN Is situated on a high range of hills on the right bank of the Washita river, one hundred and ten miles south-west of Little Rock. Its growth has been very rapid. A few years ago, the land on which the city now stands was covered with a dense forest, and many of the trees are still standing in the streets. The city has great advantages for trade, being at the head of navigation for large steamers. It was settled in 1842, and in 280 THE WESTERN STATES. 1860 the population numbered two thousand two hundred and nineteen. FORT SMITH Is situated at the western boundary of the state, on the right bank of the Arkansas river, one hundred and sixty-three miles north-west of Little Rock. It is a military post of the United States, and is extensively engaged in trade with the Indians. Its population is about one thousand and five hundred. PINE BLUFE Is situated on the right bank of the Arkansas river, forty- eight miles south-east of Little Rock. It is situated in a rich cotton planting region, and ships twenty thousand bales of cotton annually. It has about one thousand three hundred inhabitants. MISSOURI. The early settlers of Missouri were French. The first settle- ment was made in the year 1719, near the site of the present capital. It was purchased by the United States as a part of the territory of Louisiana, in 1803. In 1812, when Louisiana was admitted into the union, the remainder of the territory was named Missouri. In 1821 the territory applied to congress for admis- sion into the union. A bill was introduced admitting it as a state, but prohibiting slavery. This passed the house, but was arrested in the senate. After a stormy debate the question was settled by a compromise. A bill passed for the admission of Missouri without any restriction as to slavery, but prohibiting it throughout the United States north of latitude thirty-six degrees thirty minutes. North of the Missouri river the surface is mostly level. South of this river it is varied, presenting mountains, marshes, and prairie lands. The climate is variable. The winters are cold and the summers very warm, but the air is dry and pure. The soil, especially on the river bottoms, is fertile. In the south- eastern part of the state there is considerable marsh land, which, with a proper system of drainage, would probably become the most fertile part of the state. The principal productions of THE WESTERN STATES. 281 the state are Indian corn, wheat, oats, tobacco, and wool. The Mississippi river forms its eastern boundary, and the Mis- souri crosses it from west to east, thus giving it access to the commerce of the two largest rivers of the United States. The Missouri river rises in the Rocky mountains. It is three thousand and ninety-six miles in length. Throughout the greater part of its course the current is very rapid, and the navigation is somewhat difficult. Steamboats, however, meet with but little difficulty in ascending for about two thousand five hundred and seventy-five miles from its mouth. It forms the north-western boundary of the state of Missouri for about two hundred miles, then crosses it in a south-easterly direction. On its southern shore there are a number of bluffs from one hundred to three hundred feet in hight. Its principal tributaries within the state are the Chariton, Grand, Osage, and Gasconade. The Chari- ton is navigable for about fifty miles from its mouth, the Grand for only a short distance, the Osage in high water for about two hundred, and the Gasconade for about sixty miles. JEFFERSON CITY, The capital of Missouri, is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Missouri river, one hundred and fifty-five miles west of St. Louis. The situation is elevated, and commands a fine view of the river and of the bluffs on the opposite shore. In 1865 the population was about three thousand five hundred. The other important towns are St. Louis, St. Joseph, Hanni- bal, Kansas City, and Lexington. ST. LOUIS, The largest city, is situated on the right bank of the Missis- sippi, about twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri. The thickly settled portion extends for about two and one half miles, but the whole extent is about seven miles along the river and three miles back. The natural commercial advantages of the city are very great. It is situated midway between the At- lantic and Pacific, in the center of the finest agricultural region in the world, on the largest river of the United States, and 282 THE WESTERN STATES. almost at the very point where the Missouri, Ohio, and Illinois rivers converge. The city is regularly laid out and well built. The streets are wide, and with few exceptions intercept each other at right angles. It contains many elegant public build- ings. The new court house, built of Genevieve limestone, occu- pies an entire square. It cost the city about half a million of dollars. The United States arsenal is a large and handsome building, surrounded by handsomely ornamented grounds. Among the finest churches are St. George, the Catholic cathe- dral, and the Church of the Messiah. In the tower of the cathe- dral there is a chime of bells, the heaviest of which weighs two thousand six hundred pounds. The site of St. Louis was selected in 1764. In 1822 it was chartered as a city. In 1860 its population was one hundred and sixty thousand seven hun- dred and seventy-three. ST. JOSEPH Is situated on the left bank of the Missouri, four hundred and ninety-six miles, by water, from St. Louis. The town was laid out in 1843. The population in 1865 was about fifteen thousand. HANNIBAL Is situated on the Mississippi river, one hundred and fifty- three miles above St. Louis. It is a flourishing city, neatly laid out and well built. In 1865 the population was about eight thousand. KANSAS CITY Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri river, just below the mouth of the Kansas. It contains a court house, eleven churches and three banks. In 1864 the population was about five thousand four hundred. LEXINGTON Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri, one hundred and twenty miles west of Jefferson City. In 1860 the popula- tion was four thousand one hundred and twenty-two. THE WESTERN STATES. 283 IOWA. Iowa formed, origin a My, part of the Louisiana purchase; after- wards it became a part of Missouri, then of Wisconsin, and lastly of Iowa Territory. It was organized as a state, with governor and legislature, in 1846. The surface of Iowa is undulating and beautiful, with alter- nate forests and prairies. There is nothing within its limits which approaches a mountain in elevation ; but bold bluffs, with picturesque ravines, line the rivers. A plateau, which enters the northern part of the state from Minnesota, is the highest elevation. Table Mound, a conical elevation with a flat summit, three or four miles from Dubuque, is about five hundred feet high. There are said to be some swamps in the north-western por- tion of the state. On Turkey river, in the northern part, there are numerous sinks, or circular depressions in the surface of the ground, some of them from ten to twenty feet across. On the same stream, within ten or fifteen miles of its mouth, are small mounds, from three to six feet high, and sometimes ten or twelve in a row. In Jackson county, there is a cave, several rods in extent, from which flows a stream large enough to turn a mill. The state may be described as a rolling prairie, crossed by rivers whose banks are skirted with wood. The Mississippi and Missouri form its eastern and western boundary. The other important rivers are the Des Moines, Iowa, Red Cedar, and their branches. The Des Moines, the most important of these, has its sources in Minnesota, and, traversing the entire state of Iowa, forms, near its mouth, a small portion of the south-eastern boundary. It is thought that it can be made navigable for steamboats as far as Fort Des Moines, a distance of about two hundred miles, and the state government has recently undertaken the work. Small steamboats can ascend the Iowa river three months in the year, for about eighty miles from its mouth, as far as Iowa City. The Red Cedar is about three hundred miles in length, and passes almost entirely across the state, furnishing important water-power. 284 THE WESTERN STATES. Iowa lias not much direct foreign commerce, but trades exten- sively with the Atlantic and Gulf towns, and with the interior. The soil is exceedingly fertile and the climate healthful. The summers are warm, but the winters are quite severe. The rivers are frozen over from two to three months, on an average, each winter. Iowa, except along the rivers, is not well timbered. Between the belts of timber bordering on the streams, there are often prairies of from fifteen to twenty miles in extent, without as much as a shrub or tree to break the monotony of their surface. DES MOINES, The capital of the state, is situated at the junction of the Des Moines and Raccoon rivers, one hundred and seventy-five miles west of Davenport. The other principal towns are Dubuque, Davenport, Keokuk, Burlington and Iowa City. DUBUQUE Is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi, about four hundred and fifty miles above St. Louis. Part of the city is built on a terrace, which extends along the bank of the river for several miles ; the remainder is built upon a bluff, which rises about two hundred feet higher. DAVENPORT Is situated on the Mississippi, about three hundred and thirty miles above St. Louis. Next to Dubuque and Burlington it is the largest city of Iowa, and it is rapidly increasing in size. A handsome draw-bridge connects it with the city of Rock Island, on the opposite side of the river. KEOKUK Is situated on the Mississippi, two hundred and five miles above St. Louis. It stands on a basis of fine limestone, which affords an excellent material for building. THE WESTERN STATES. 285 BURLINGTON Is situated on the Mississippi river, about two hundred and fifty miles above St. Louis. It was at one time the capital of Iowa, and it continues to grow rapidly, notwithstanding the removal of the seat of government. At the present time its population is not equaled by any city in the state except Du- buque, which is about the same. IOWA CITY Was also at one time the capital of Iowa. It is situated on the Iowa river, about eighty miles from its mouth. The river at this point has excellent water-power, which is partially im- proved. MICHIGAN. The first settlements in Michigan were made by the French in the latter part of the seventeenth century, at Detroit and Mackinaw. In 1763, together with the other French possessions in North America, it passed into the hands of Great Britain. On the breaking out of the American revolution, it came into the hands of the United States. It was admitted into the union in 1837. The state is divided by Lakes Michigan and Huron, into two irregular peninsulas. The northern peninsula is a wild and rough region of mountains and forests, and containing about two-fifths of the area of the state. The southern is a level, rich, fertile country of prairies and oak openings, and watered by numerous rivers. There is a striking contrast between the two peninsulas, the lower being level and fertile, while the upper is picturesque, rugged and sterile in soil. The climate is mild in the southern, and cold and bleak in the northern regions. The southern portion produces wheat, maize, butter, and cheese, in great abundance. The northern part is rich in minerals. Along the shores of Lake Superior are probably some of the richest copper mines in the world. A mass of copper weighing one hundred and fifty tons was uncovered in one of the mines 286 THE WESTERN STATES. in 1854. Silver is also found in considerable quantities in con- nection with the copper. In some instances the ore has yielded as high as fifty per cent, of silver. Iron also abounds along the shores of the same lake. (See views of the iron mines of Lake Superior.) Large quantities of this mineral are shipped from the town of Marquette, which owes its prosperity to the iron mines worked in the vicinity. Extensive ore docks are built along the shore of the bay. (See views of the bay of Mar- quette.) Michigan is most favorably situated for internal trade, and trade with British America. It has a lake coast of over one thousand miles. The coast is indented by a number of bays, furnishing valuable harbors. The rivers are small and rapid in their course, obstructed by frequent waterfalls, which oppose navigation, but furnish valuable water power. The St. Joseph, Kalamazoo, Grand and Muskegon, are navigable for vessels of light draft from forty to fifty miles. The towns of Michigan are remarkable for their rapid growth. LANSINGS, The capital, is situated on Grand river, one hundred and ten miles north-west of Detroit. When it was selected for the seat of government in 1847, it was surrounded by an almost unbro- ken wilderness. It now contains a large and handsome state house, twelve churches, two banks, a female college, an academy, and a reform school. In 1860, the population was three thous- and and seventy-four. The other important places are Detroit, Grand Rapids, Adrian, Kalamazoo, Ann Arbor, Jackson and Monroe. DETROIT, The largest city, is situated on the west bank of Detroit river, eighteen miles from the head of Lake Erie. The city covers an area of about ten miles, and stretches along the bank of the river for about three miles. The city is regularly laid out, the streets are wide, well paved, and ornamented with forest trees. The city is supplied with pure lake water which is raised from the river by steam power. The position of Detroit on the great THE WESTERN STATES. 287 chain of lakes, gives it great commercial advantages. Several lines of large steamers are actively engaged in the copper and iron trade. In 1805, Detroit was entirely destroyed by fire. The city was then built up on an entirely different plan. It was the capital of the state from the admission of Michigan into the union in 1886, until 1850. The city contains a number of large and handsome public buildings, and many elegant private resi- dences. In 1865, the population was about sixty thousand. GRAND RAPIDS Is situated on Grand river, forty miles from its mouth. The city takes its name from the rapids of the river at that place. It is beautifully situated on both banks of the river, in an eleva- ted position, commanding a fine view of the river and surround- ing country. It is actively engaged in commerce and manufac- tures. The city was laid out in 1833, and incorporated in 1850. It now contains twelve churches, two banks, and several semi- naries. The population is about eight thousand one hundred. ADRIAN Is situated on a branch of the Raisin river, seventy miles south-west of Detroit. It is actively engaged in commerce, and is rapidly increasing in population. It has a number of large public buildings, and several places of worship. The population it about six thousand two hundred. KALAMAZOO Is situated on the left bank of Kalamazoo river, one hundred and forty miles west of Detroit. It is actively engaged in trade. The Michigan asylum for the insane is located here. It also contains a United States land office, nine churches, and three banks. In 1860 the population was six thousand and seventy. ANN ARBOR Is situated on the Huron river, thirty-eight miles west of Detroit. It contains a university, three colleges, eight churches, three banks, and a large union school. In 1864, the popula- tion was about eight thousand nine hundred. 288 THE WESTERN STATES. JACKSON Is situated on Grand river, seventy-six miles west of Detroit. It contains the county buildings, five churches, one seminary and the state penitentiary. In 1860 the population was four thousand nine hundred and seventy-nine. MONROE Is pleasantly situated on both sides of the Raisin river, two miles from its entrance into Lake Erie and forty miles south- west of Detroit. The place was settled in 1776, but has mostly been built since 1835. The population in 1860 was three thou- sand eight hundred and ninety-two. WISCONSIN. Wisconsin was settled in the latter part of the seventeenth century. For some time the population did not increase very rapidly, but within the last few years the rich soil, valuable minerals, and beautiful scenery of the state have attracted a large number of emigrants. It was admitted into the union in 1848. The surface of Wisconsin is elevated, though it has no moun- tains. The climate is severe, the winters long, but almost en- tirely free from those sudden changes which occur in some of the states further south. The soil is fertile, and generally adapted to farming and grazing, especially in the southern part of the state. The mineral resources of the state are not yet fully developed. Considerable quantities of copper, iron and lead are found. The lead is frequently intermingled with cop- per, zinc, and silver. The principal rivers of the state flow in a south-westerly direc- tion, and empty into the Mississippi, which traverses the south- western border of the state for about two hundred miles. The other important rivers are the Wisconsin and the Chippewa. The Wisconsin rises in the northern part of the state, flows in a south-westerly direction, and empties into the Mississippi. It is about two hundred miles in length, and navigable for about one THE WESTERN STATES. 289 hundred and eighty miles of this distance. The Chippewa rises in the northern part of the state, flows in a south-westerly direc- tion a distance of about two hundred miles, and discharges its waters into the Mississippi. The courses of the rivers are rapid, furnishing valuable water power, but unfavorable to navigation. They abound in rapids and falls. On the Wisconsin occur the St. Croix, Chippewa, and Big Bull falls. On the banks of this river are Pentenwell peak, and Pulpit rock. The former is an oval mass of rock, nine hundred feet long, three hundred feet wide, and elevated about two hundred feet above the surround- ing country. The latter (see view,) is about one hundred feet in hight. One side has a perpendicular descent, and the other descends by a succession of terraces. About fifty miles below St. Anthony's falls the Mississippi river expands into a lake, some five miles in width and twenty-five miles in length. This is called Lake Pepin, which means " the Lake of Tears." This lake is noted for its beautiful scenery. On the east side is a bold rock over four hundred feet high called Maiden rock. (See view.) This rock derived its name from an occurrence which took place about fifty years ago. An Indian girl, of the Wapa- sha tribe, became very much attached to a young hunter. Her parents, however, determined that she should marry a young warrior who had signalized himself in battle against the Chippe- was. Rather than submit to this, she ascended this rock, and, with a loud voice commenced upbraiding her parents for their cruel conduct. They promised to relinquish all compulsory measures, but, regardless of their entreaties, she threw herself from the rock, and fell a lifeless corpse at their feet. In the northern part of the state are a number of small lakes, remarkable for their beautiful scenery. Scattered throughout the state are mounds or earth works, which are evidently the work of a race who occupied the country previous to the peo- ple found by the Europeans on their arrival here. The cities of Wisconsin are growing rapidly, and new ones are constantly springing up. 290 THE WESTERN STATES. MADISON, The capital, is pleasantly situated in the center of a broad valley, on an isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona. The situation is remarkably beautiful, and it is much frequented by pleasure seekers as a summer resort. Since its origin the place has steadily and rapidly increased in population. When it was selected in 1836 for the seat of government, it contained but one house, and that was built of logs. It now contains a handsome capitol, a university, twelve churches, four banks and eighty stores. In 1865 the population was about ten thousand. The other important places are Milwaukee, Racine, and Janesville. MILWAUKEE, The largest city, is situated on the western shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Milwaukee river, seventy-five miles east of Madison. It is pleasantly situated on both sides of the river, and the general appearance of the place is very pleasing, on account of the large number of buildings made from the brick manufactured at that place. These bricks are of a light cream color. Large quantities of them are shipped to other parts of the United States. Milwaukee is remarkable for its rapid growth. The extensive water power of the Milwaukee river is an impor- tant element in the prosperity of the place. The town was set- tled in 1835, and incorporated as a city in 1846. It contains forty-three churches, eleven public schools, one female college, several academies, eight banks, three orphan asylums and two hospitals. In 1863 the population was about sixty-five thousand. RACINE Is beautifully situated on an elevated plain on the western shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Root river, twenty-five miles south-east of Milwaukee. The city is regularly laid out, with wide streets, and contains a number of handsome public buildings and elegant private residences. Racine contains six- teen churches, one college, six public schools and two banks. It was settled in 1835, and incorporated in 1848. In 1865 the population was about ten thousand. THE WESTERN STATES. 291 JANESVILLE Is pleasantly situated on both sides of Rock river. It was settled in 1836, and incorporated in 1853. It contains a court house, nine churches, two banks, a high school, a female semi- nary, and the state institution for the blind. In 1860 the pop- ulation was seven thousand seven hundred and three. MINNESOTA. Minnesota was first visited by white men in the year 1654. The first permanent settlement was made in 1811. The present state formed a part of the original Louisiana territory as pur- chased from France in 1803. It became a territory in 1847, and was admitted into the union in 1853. The surface of the state is generally uniform. It contains no mountains, but is the most elevated tract of land between the Gulf of Mexico and Hudson's bay. There are a few eleva- tions above the general average, called mounds ; but, with these exceptions, the surface is marked only by ravines running from the general level down to the beds of the streams. It is neither mountainous, hilly, or level, but a beautiful arrangement of up- land and lowland plains. The climate is severe but remarkably uniform, sudden changes rarely occurring, so that there is far less suffering from cold than in the changeable weather of the winters further south. The soil on the river bottoms is very fertile. In the northern part of the state the country is generally covered with drift, in- terspersed with marshes, too wet for cultivation. The climate is well adapted to the culture of wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. Indian corn thrives as well as in northern New York or New England. Wild rice, strawberries, currants, plums, cranber- ries and grapes are found in great abundance. Minnesota is one of the best watered states in the union. It abounds in beautiful lakes of almost every size. The largest of these lakes, with the exception of Lake Superior, are the Lake of the Woods, Rainy Lake, Red Lake, Lake Cass, Leech Lake, and Mille Lac, or Spirit Lake. Lake Pepin and White Bear 292 THE WESTERN STATES. lake (see views,) are noted for their beautiful scenery. The rivers of Minnesota abound in falls and rapids, which obstruct navigation, but afford valuable water power. St. Anthony Falls, on the Mississippi, have a perpendicular descent of sixteen and one half feet. These falls are celebrated, not so much for their hight, as for the wild and romantic scenery in the vicinity. (See views of the Falls of St. Anthony.) Near the Falls of St. Anthony is the beautiful cascade of Minnehaha. This is one of the small perfect works of nature, possessing all the greater charm, because it is not grand and overpowering, but simply beautiful. It has a perpendicular descent of about forty-five feet. As seen from beneath there is but a small portion of the sky visible, against which the fall seems projected, as though the waters were falling from some summer cloud. The precipice below the verge arches over, leaving a space wide enough for a foot path between it and the falls. (See views of Minnehaha.) The principal rivers are the Mississippi, Minnesota, Red river of the North, St. Louis, and St. Croix. The scenery along the Mississippi is very beautiful. Near the confluence of the Mis- sissippi and St. Peter's rivers there is an elevation two hundred and sixty-two feet in hight, called Pilot Knob, and another at Red Wing, three hundred feet in hight, called Barn Bluff. (See views.) Two or three miles above St. Paul there is an ex- cavation in the white sand stone called Fountain cave. This opens by an arched passage into a chamber one hundred and fifty feet long and twenty wide, along the center of which runs a small stream. (See views of Fountain cave.) The scenery at St. Cloud and Fort Snelling is remarkably beautiful. (See views.) About thirty miles from the mouth of the St. Croix river there are some rapids which have a descent of about fifty feet in about three hundred yards. About half a mile below the rapids the river has forced its way through a perpendicular wall of trap rock, through which it rushes with great velocity. This pass is called the Dalles of the St. Croix. (See views.) ST. PAUL, The capital of the state, is situated on a bluff seventy or eighty feet high, on the left bank of the Mississippi river, eight miles THE WESTERN STATES. 293 below the Falls of St. Anthony. It is a place of active business, and is growing very rapidly. It was settled in 1840. The pop- ulation in 1860 was ten thousand four hundred. The other important places are St. Anthony, Minneapolis, Stillwater, Winona, and Hastings. CALIFORNIA. California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator. In 1758, Sir Francis Drake visited its northern coast, and named the country New Albion. The original settle- ments in California were mission establishments, founded by Catholic priests for the conversion of the natives. The policy of these priests, who held absolute sway in California until 1833, was to discourage emigration. In the year 1840 the number of free whites and half breed inhabitants numbered less than six thousand. The emigration from the United States first com- menced in 1838 ; this so increased from year to year that' in 1846, Colonel Fremont had but little difficulty in calling to his aid some five hundred fighting men. Geographically considered, the position of California is one of the best in the world, lying, as it does, on the Pacific, fronting Asia. It is about seven hundred and fifty miles long with an average breadth of about two hundred miles, giving an area of one hundred and fifty thousand square miles. Its great length, together with its diversity of surface, gives it a greater variation of climate and productions than any other state in the union. The Colorado desert lies in the south-eastern part of the state, and is seventy miles wide by one hundred and forty long. It is a low, barren, dry, cheerless region. Part of it is seventy feet below the level of the sea, and, in times of very high water, the Colorado river frequently overflows its banks, and a large stream runs down into, this basin and makes a lake. North of the Col- orado desert lies the Mohave basin, which has no outlet. All its streams terminate in salt lakes, most of which dry up in sum- mer. All these lakes are so strong with alkaline salts that no fish can live in the water, and one of them is so strong that it scalds the human cuticle. Most of the basin is four thousand 294 THE WESTERN STATES. feet above the level of the sea, but one portion, called Death valley, is three hundred and seventy-five feet below. Sierra Nevada stretches along the coast, at the general dis- tance of one hundred and fifty miles from it. This great moun- tain wall receives the warm winds, charged with vapor, which sweep across the Pacific ocean, precipitates their accumulated moisture in fertilizing rains and snows upon its western flank, and leaves cold and dry winds to pass on to the east. The region east of the mountains is comparatively barren and cold. West of the Sierra Nevada is the inhabitable part of Califor- nia. North and south, this region extends through about ten degrees of latitude, from Oregon to the peninsula of California. East and west it averages, in the middle part, one hundred and fifty, and in the northern part, two hundred miles, giving an area of about one hundred thousand square miles. Side ranges, parallel to the Sierra and the coast, make the structure of the rest of California, and break it into a surface of valleys and mountains — the valleys a few hundred, and the mountains two or three thousand feet above the sea. The climate of California is mild. Snow never falls except in mountain regions. About one-third of all the land is suscep- tible of cultivation, and the soil is generally fertile, though not equal to the Mississippi valley. Where rain is abundant large crops are produced. Barley is cultivated to a greater extent than in any other state in the union. Fruit trees grow rapidly, and commence to bear when very young. The climate is pecu- liarly favorable for the cultivation of the grape. The vineyards of the state cover upwards of ten thousand acres. A single bunch of grapes has been known to weigh seventeen pounds. The vegetables are remarkable for their great size. At one of the agricultural fairs there was exhibited a cabbage weighing fifty- three pounds, a squash two hundred and sixty pounds, an onion forty-seven pounds, a turnip twenty-six pounds, a watermelon sixty-five pounds, a carrot ten pounds, and a beet one hundred and eighteen pounds, five feet long by one foot in diameter. There are dense forests on the Sierra Nevada and on the coast north of the Golden Gate. The forests of the low land of the THE WESTERN STATES. 295 Sacramento, the coast mountains south of thirty-seven degrees, the Colorado desert, and the Mohave basin are limited to some scattering groves of oak in the valleys and along the borders of the streams, and of red wood on the ridges and in the gorges of the hills, sometimes extending into the plains. The largest trees in the state are the Sequoia Crigantea or mammoth trees. These trees are found in the Sierra Nevada at an elevation of four thousand feet. Already twenty groves have been discovered in California. The Mariposa is the largest and finest, though the Calaveras, fifty miles to the northward, is better known. This grove contains ten trees thirty feet in diameter, eighty-two between fifteen and thirty, and a number of smaller ones. Nearly all of them are over two hundred and fifty feet high, and several of them three hundred. One of them was cut down by boring with augers and sawing the spaces between. The work employed five men for twenty-five days. When fully cut off the tree stub- bornly continued to stand, only yielding at last to a mammoth wedge and a powerful battering-ram. Of the trees in the Mar- iposa grove, two hundred are more than twelve feet in diameter, fifty more than sixteen feet and six more than thirty feet. The largest, called the " Prostrate Monarch," is now lying upon the ground, leafless and branchless. It is believed to have fallen fully one hundred and fifty years ago. Part of the trunk has been consumed by fire, though enough of it remains to show that with the bark on it must have been at least forty feet in diame- ter. The largest of the trees are between three and four hun- dred feet high. The tops of many of the large trees have been broken off, leaving their average hight about two hundred and fifty feet. In one of the trees, there is a cavity about half the thickness of the trunk, which is large enough to admit fifteen persons on horseback, without crowding in the least. Through another, lying on the ground, a cavity has been burned, large enough to permit a man to ride through its entire length. The largest standing tree is the Grizzly Grant. If it was cut off smoothly, fifty horses could easily stand upon the stump. If the trunk were hollowed to a shell, it would hold more freight than a man-of-war or a first class ocean steamer two hundred 296 THE WESTERN STATES. and fifty feet long. (See views of mammoth trees in Mariposa and Calaveras groves.) The redwood pines which are scattered among these trees would elsewhere be considered kings of the forests, but among these hoary giants they dwarf into small shrubs. They are scattered over an area of about twelve hun- dred and eighty acres. Many of them are two hundred feet in hight. The chief mineral is gold, and California is the chief gold pro- ducing country in the world. On the 19th of January, 1848, the gold mines of the Sierra Nevada were discovered by an American gentleman, James N. Marshall, and in about three months upwards of four thousand people were working them. Further explorations showed that these deposits of gold extended over a vast extent of country. The discovery of gold at once changed the character of California. Its people, before engaged in cultivating small patches of ground, and guarding their herds of cattle and horses, flocked to the mines. The laborers left their work, the tradesmen their shops, the soldiers deserted from the forts, and the sailors ran away from their ships. The mines astonished the world by the vast amount of their production. Information of the discovery spread rapidly, and in fifteen months after their discovery one hundred thousand people had started for the new El Dorado. Lower California was forgotten; the only California before the eyes of the world was the new land of gold, which thus usurped the name which once belonged exclusively to the peninsula. The principal gold region of California is about five hundred miles long, and from forty to fifty miles broad, following the line of the Sierra Nevada. (See views of California mining.) There are numerous streams which have their sources in the springs of the Sierra, and receive the waters from its melting snows and that which falls in rain during the wet season. These rivers in forming their channels, or breaking their way through the hills, have come in contact with the quartz containing the gold veins, and by constant attrition cut the gold into fine flakes and dust, and it is found among the sand and gravel of their beds at those places where the swiftness of the current reduces THE WESTERN STATES. 297 it, in the dry season, to the narrowest possible limits, and where a wide margin is consequently left on each side, over which the water rushes during the wet season with great force. (See views of Yuba river.) Perhaps no state in the union is as remarkable for the com- bination of loveliness with sublimity, as California. Its natural scenery is unsurpassed by that of any other part of the world. The Geysers, in Lake county, a cluster of hot, steaming springs, and Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, near the summit of the Sierra Ne- vada, are fashionable watering places. The rivers have fre- quently cut for themselves beds, or canons, in the solid rock, narrow and deep, with the banks rising perpendicularly on either side. (See views of canons.) Lieutenant Ives' statements respecting the gorges upon the Colorado river are almost incred- ible, and are certainly without a parallel. At the head of navigation the deep and narrow current of the river flows between massive walls of rock, which rise sheer from the water for over a thousand feet, seeming almost to meet in the dizzy hight above. The sun rarely penetrates the depths of this " Black Canon," which is about twenty-five miles in length. Incomparably the grandest feature of California is the Yosemite valley. Unless the unexplored Himalayas hide some rival, there is no spot, the wide world over, of such varied beauty and measureless grand- eur. The valley is from eight to ten miles long, and a little more than a mile wide, with steep, rocky sides, in some places four thousand feet high. Through this valley runs the Merced river. This river is about forty yards wide. Its waters are almost perfectly transparent. In the valley are five great cascades, the highest of which is the Yosemite. This is the loftiest waterfall in the world. It leaps one thousand six hundred feet at one fall, then it has four hundred and thirty-four feet of rapids and a second fall of six hundred feet, making in all a descent of two thousand six hundred and thirty-four feet. Next to the Yo- semite is Bridal Veil fall, which is nine hundred and forty feet in hight. It is unbroken and much narrower than the Yo- semite. Before reaching the end of its long descent it is com- pletely transformed to spray. Its name is peculiarly fitting. It 298 THE WESTERN STATES. indeed looks like a veil of white lace, and, softened as it is by a delicate mist, notwithstanding its great night, it strikes the be- holder not so much with a feeling of awe, as with admiration of its own beauty. Nevada Fall is six hundred feet in hight. Its waters are always white as a snow drift. Its volume is much greater, still it is not lacking in the misty softness, which forms the principal beauty of Bridal Veil. South Fork Fall, six hun- dred feet high, is very difficult of access, and is seldom visited by travelers. Vernal Fall is on the middle or main fork of Ver- nal river. In spring each fall has twenty times as much water as in summer, and they are much more impressive and beautiful than later in the season. The view from the top of Vernal Fall is particularly impressive. In the distance, across the gorge, snow-streaked mountains loom up before the eye, while beneath is the valley, shut in by measureless inclosing walls, and fringed with groves of pines and spreading oaks. The rock mountains are the principal feature of the Yosemite. Their dimensions are so vast as almost to exceed comprehension. South Dome is really a semi-dome. It is four thousand nine hundred and sixty-seven feet in hight. When we speak of a rock thirty feet in hight, it conveys some definite impression, but to tell of one four thousand feet high, only bewilders the mind. North Dome is three thousand seven hundred and twen- ty-nine feet in hight. Both these rocks are covered with vege- tation. Hardy cedars, apparently growing out of the solid rock, have braved for a thousand years the war of elements. One large rock is named in honor of Thomas Starr King. The grandest of all the rocks is Tutoconuula. This rock is three thousand and twenty-nine feet in hight, with a smooth, seamless wall, entirely destitute of vegetation. Its surface is so smooth that it is impossible for a vine to fasten its tendrils upon its polished, weather-beaten wall. Mirror Lake is on the north fork of Merced river. The water is very transparent, reflecting the objects above so perfectly as almost to resemble an inverted dome of blue sky, dotted with mountains, rocks and trees. The United States authorities have taken measures to preserve the Yosemite valley and the Mariposa groves, as pleasure grounds THE WESTERN STATES. 299 for the people of the United States. They are set apart from the general public domain as a national park, and are under the care of a commissioner appointed by the governor of California, for their preservation and protection. SACRAMENTO CITY Is the capital of the state. It is situated on the left bank of Sacramento river, one hundred and twenty miles north-east of San Francisco. The river is navigable for steamers for some distance above the place, at all seasons of the year, giving it great commercial advantages. It was founded in 1849, and in 1865 the population was about eighteen thousand. (See views of Sacramento.) SAN FRANCISCO, The principal city, is situated on San Francisco bay, six miles south of the Golden Gate. It is regularly laid out, and con- tains many handsome buildings. There are within the city forty-six churches, twenty banks, a custom-house, a branch mint, a marine hospital, a number of public schools, a state normal school, and seventy-five private schools, besides a number of benevolent institutions. It is actively engaged in commerce, for which it has great natural advantages. The population is rapidly increasing ; in 1865 it was about ninety thousand. (See views of San Francisco, harbor and bay.) OREGON. Oregon was first visited by the whites in 1775. From this time until 1804 the coast was occasionally visited by fur traders. In the year 1792, Captain Robert Gray, of the ship Columbia, of Boston, discovered and entered the Columbia river. In 1808 the Missouri fur company established a trading post on Lewis river, a branch of the Columbia, which was the first white set- tlement in the state. Emigration from the United States did not begin to any great extent until 1839. It was organized as a territory in 1848, and admitted into the union in 1859. 300 THE WESTERN STATES. The state is divided into three natural sections ; the lower or that portion next the ocean, the middle, or that part which lies between the Cascade range and the Blue mountains, and the upper, or that portion which lies between the Blue and Rocky mountains. Oregon has a milder climate than that of the same latitude on the Atlantic coast. The climate of the coast region is mild throughout the year, neither experiencing the extreme cold of winter or the heat of summer. In the middle region the sum- mers are drier and the winters colder than in the lower region, but free from sudden changes from heat to cold. The upper country is variable and colder than either of the others. The soil in the upper region is sterile and unfitted for agricultural operations. The central portion affords in many places excel- lent pasturage, though it is not in many places susceptible of cultivation, but that of the coast region is unsurpassed in fertil- ity. Indian corn, wheat, barley, oats and turnips are the prin- cipal productions. The principal river is the Columbia, which is the largest river on the Pacific slope of the continent. Its length, including that of its longest affluent, is about one thousand two hundred miles. It is navigable as far as the Cascades. Above this point the navigation is obstructed. The scenery along the river is remark- ably beautiful. At the point where it breaks through the Cas- cade range, the channel narrows to one hundred and fifty yards. The river rushes through the narrow opening with great violence, and descends forty feet in two miles. At the dalles the channel again narrows for half a mile to one hundred yards, and descends fifty feet in two miles. SALEM, The capital of the state, is situated on the east bank of the Willamette river, fifty miles above Oregon City. The river is navigable to this point during high water for about nine months of the year. The city is growing rapidly. In 1865 the popu- lation was about two thousand five hundred. The other impor- tant towns are Portland, Oregon City, Salem, Albany, Cor- vallis, and Eugene City. THE WESTERN STATES. 301 KANSAS. This state was purchased from France in 1803, under what is called the Louisiana purchase. It was organized as a sepa- rate territory in 1854, and admitted into the union in 1861. The surface of the state is gently undulating with no moun- tains or other high elevations. The climate is mild ; the winters are very short. The days in summer are quite warm, but are always succeeded by cool and pleasant evenings. The soil is very fertile, equal to if not surpassing that of any other state in the union. The principal productions are corn, wheat, rye, oats, tobacco, buckwheat, potatoes, cotton and hemp. The principal rivers are the Missouri, which forms the north-eastern boundary of the state for some distance, the Kansas and Arkan- sas. The Kansas is formed by the union of the Republican and Smoky Hill Forks. The length of the main branch is about one hundred and twenty miles. The navigation is obstructed by sand-bars. The Arkansas flows through the south-eastern part of the state for some distance. The navigation is obstructed by rapids. The principal tributaries from the state, are the Walnut, Neosho, Verdigris, and Little Arkansas. TOPEKA, The capital, is pleasantly situated on the southern bank of the Kansas river, about fifty miles south-west of Leavenworth. It is regularly laid out, with wide streets, and is being rapidly and neatly built up. The population is about seven hundred and fifty. The other important places are Leavenworth, Atchison and Lawrence. LEAVENWORTH, The largest city, is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Missouri, in the midst of a fine agricultural region. Steam- boats navigate the river from this place to St. Louis. The city contains sixteen churches, seven banks, four academies, seven public schools, and one medical college. The population is rap- idly increasing. In 1855, it numbered about one thousand, and in 1865, it was nearly eighteen thousand. 302 THE WESTERN STATES. ATCHISON Is situated on the right bank of the Missouri river, about twenty-five miles above Leavenworth. In 1865, the population was about three thousand five hundred. LAWRENCE Is situated on the right bank of the Kansas river. The city was founded in 1854. In 1863, the town was burned by the rebels under Quantrell, and about one hundred and fifty of the inhabitants killed. It has since been rapidly rebuilt. The pop- ulation is now about one thousand six hundred. NEBRASKA. Nebraska originally formed a part of the Louisiana purchase. It became a separate territory in 1854. In 1861 its limits were greatly reduced by the formation of the territory of Dakota. It was admitted into the union in 1867. The surface of the state, from the Missouri westward, is a rolling prairie, but little diversified in its aspect, except by the intersection of its streams. The soil for about one hundred miles west of the Missouri river resembles that of Iowa and Mis- souri. In the western part of the state is an extensive tract known as "badlands." This consists of a rolling prairie, so largely intermixed with sand as to be almost unfit for ordinary agricultural purposes. The prairies, however, are covered with rich grass, which affords excellent pasturage. The principal productions of the state are corn, wheat, oats, hay, butter, and potatoes. The climate is milder than that of the eastern states in the same latitude. The summers are very warm, but are generally relieved by cool winds from the prairies. The principal rivers are the Missouri, Niobrara, and Nebraska. The Missouri forms its entire eastern boundary. The Niobrara crosses the north-western part of the state and empties into the THE WESTERN STATES. 303 Missouri. The Nebraska is formed by the union of the North and South fork. Its length, including North fork is about one thousand two hundred miles. OMAHA, The capital, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of the Missouri, opposite Council Bluffs. The city contains a court house, ten churches, a female seminary and a number of other schools. The name of Omaha was derived from a tribe of In- dians. It is a thriving town, and growing rapidly. In 1860 the population was about one thousand eight hundred, and in 1865 about four thousand five hundred. (See views of Omaha.) The other important places are Nebraska City and Brownsville. The population of Nebraska City is about one thousand nine hundred. That of Brownsville, in 1860, was four hundred and twenty-five. NEVADA. Nevada was formerly comprised in the territory of Utah. It was organized as a territory in 1861, and admitted into the union in 1864. The surface of Nevada consists of a succession of mountain ranges, with intervening valleys, and sandy plains. The soil is generally sterile, and a large portion of it is not capable of supporting a population. The climate is dry, and in many respects resembles that of Utah. It is rich is mineral resources. In Story county there are some silver mines said to be the rich- est in the world. Gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron, are also abundant. It has no large streams. The only ones deserving of notice, are Humboldt, Walker, and Carson rivers. The lakes are small, and many of them have no outlet. Pyramid lake in the western part of the state, is inclosed by precipitous rocks which rise to a great hight. It derives its name from a rock shaped like a pyramid, about six hundred feet in hight. 304 THE WESTERN STATES. CARSON CITY, The capital, is situated at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, about four miles west of Carson river. In 1864, the silver mines at this place yielded upwards of one million dollars. In 1865, the population was about two thousand five hundred. The other important places are Nevada City and Gold Hill. The population of Nevada City is about three thousand six hundred. That of Gold Hill in 1860, was six hundred and thirty-eight. CHAPTER V. TERRITORIES. The territories of the United States are ten in number, viz : Washington, Idaho, Montana, Dakota, Wyoming, Utah, Color- ado, Arizona, New Mexico, and Indian territory ; the greater number of which are traversed by the Rocky mountain system, commencing in New Mexico, extending in a north-west direction across the North American continent, and terminating near the mouth of the Mackenzie river. The name Rocky mountains is, however, applied to only that part of the system within the United States. To this system belong the Sierra Madre, Was- utch, Bitter Root, Black Hills, and others. The great breadth of the base, and the gentle acclivity render the Rocky moun- tains more easily traversed than any others of the same altitude. The Union Pacific railroad crosses them at Bear mountain sum- mit, eight thousand seven hundred and ninety feet above the level of the sea. WASHINGTON Is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Idaho, on the south by Oregon, and on the west by the Pacific ocean. This territory was separated from Oregon by an act of Congress in 1853. A large portion of the surface is mountain- ous, and abounds in romantic scenery. Washington has a great coal trade, and gold has been found on the Columbia river, and on the east side of the Cascade mountains. The eastern and central portions are peopled by various Indian tribes. The white inhabitants live west of the Cascade range. Olympia, the capi- tal, is on Shute's river, at its entrance into Puget sound. Steil- acoom is one of the most important places. 20 306 TERRITORIES. IDAHO Was organized in 1863. It is bounded on the north by Brit- ish America and Montana, on the east by Montana and Wyom- ing, on the south by Utah and Nevada, and on the west by Oregon and Washington. The surface is rugged and mountainous ; the scenery pic- turesque and grand. In this territory is Fremont's peak, the highest of the Rocky mountains in the United States, having an altitude of thirteen thousand five hundred and ten feet. Gold and silver, the chief minerals, are found in large quanti- ties, and mining is actively engaged in. Boise City, on the Boise or Big Wood river, is the capital. MONTANA Formed a part of Idaho until 1864, when it was organized as a territory. It is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Dakota, on the south by Wyoming and Idaho, and on the west by Idaho. The surface is rugged, mountainous, and in some places shows signs of volcanic action. Silver and iron exist in large quanti- ties, and gold has been found to some extent. The Missouri river has its source in Montana. In the north- eastern part of this territory is Fort Union, on the proposed north- ern railroad route to the Pacific. Montana was organized as a territory in 1863. The principal towns are Virginia City, the capital, Bannock City, Laburge City, Gallatin City, and Nevada. DAKOTA, The largest territory, was organized in 1861. It is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Minnesota and Iowa, on the south by Nebraska, and on the west by Montana and Wyoming. This territory presents every variety of surface, elevated table lands, rugged hills, plains, and sand hills. The Missouri river TERRITORIES. 307 traverses nearly the entire length of this territory. On it are built several United States forts, among which are Forts Ber- thold, Clark, Sully, and others. Yanktown is the capital, and Pembina the oldest city. (See views in Dakota.) WYOMING, The latest organized territory, is bounded on the north by Montana, on the east by Dakota and Nebraska, on the south by Colorado and Utah, and on the west by Utah, Idaho and Montana. Through the central part of this territory passes a ridge of the Rocky mountains. In the south-eastern part occur the Black hills, the principal of which are Laramie peak and Mount Pisgah. South-west of this range of hills, and between them and the Rocky mountains, are the Laramie plains, on which are found huge red sandstone rocks. This territory formerly belonged to Dakota, from which it has recently been separated. UTAH Is bounded on the north by Idaho and Wyoming, on the east by Wyoming and Colorado, on the south by Arizona, and on the west by Nevada. It was originally a part of California territory, ceded to the United States by Mexico in 1848. It became a separate terri- tory in 1850. The general surface is mountainous, and the most barren and sterile region in the United States. Some of the villages are six thousand feet above the level of the sea. The climate in summer is hot and in winter mild, but subject to sudden changes. Great Salt Lake, in this territory, is the most remarkable body of water in the United States. This lake is in the northern part of the territory, about four thousand two hundred feet above the level of the sea, and so bitterly salt that no live animal can exist in it. It has no visible outlet, but four 308 TERRITORIES. rivers empty into it, one of which is the river Jordan, connect- ing it with Utah Lake. The water of Salt Lake is so buoyant that one finds difficulty in wading in it, floats with ease, and would be in no danger of drowning, except by strangling. Three gallons of water produce one gallon of pure salt ; and, during hot weather, the shores of the lake are covered with a thick incrustation of salt, caused by solar evaporation. The lake is one hundred and twenty miles long and forty miles broad. Utah Lake is about thirty miles from Great Salt Lake. It is a clear, fresh body of water, twenty miles wide and thirty-five miles long. SALT LAKE CITY, The capital of L'tah, is about twenty miles from Great Salt Lake, and is situated near the Jordan river. The city was laid out by the Mormons in 1847, contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and publishes three daily and one weekly papers. Camp Douglas, a garrisoned post of the United States army, restrains the despotic power of the Mormon church, affords shelter to all those who abandon that faith, and sends them to the states under military escort. Brigham Young, the president of the Mormon church, is popular among the " saints," and rules them with ease. His dwellings, the Lion House and the Bee-hive House, are in the heart of the city, surrounded by a wall eleven feet high, built of bowlders laid in mortar. In the city are four public squares, in one of which a magnificent tem- ple is being erected. (See views of Salt Lake City.) COLORADO, Organized in 1861, is bounded on the north by Wyoming and Nebraska, on the east by Nebraska and Kansas, on the south by Indian Territory and New Mexico, and on the west by Utah. The general surface is mountainous. Within this territory are some of the highest peaks of the Rocky mountains, the most noted of which are Long's Peak and Pike's Peak. The TERRITORIES. 309 latter has an altitude of eleven thousand four hundred and nine- ty-seven feet. It was at this peak that gold was first discovered in Colorado. The principal rivers are Arkansas, south fork of the Platte, Yampa, Bear, Bunkara and Gunnison. Big Thompson creek is in the northern part of the territory. DENVBK, The capital, the most populous and principal commercial city of Colorado, is pleasantly located at the foot of the mountains, on the south fork of the Platte. Among the public buildings are the Colorado seminary, costing twenty thousand dollars ; five churches, one of which cost twenty -four thousand dollars ; a Catholic academy, and a United States branch mint, costing seventy-five thousand dollars. ARIZONA Is bounded on the north by Utah, on the east by New Mexi- co, on the south by Mexico, and on the west by California and Nevada. It formerly belonged to New Mexico, and was made a separate territory in 1863. Its general surface is mountainous, and great portions are supposed to be of volcanic origin. This ter- ritory abounds in extensive treeless plains, or prairies. Arizona is rich in gold and silver mines, which are found in almost every part of the territory. The capital is Prescott. The chief towns are Tucson and Tubac. NEW MEXICO Is bounded on the north by Colorado, on the east by Indian Territory and Texas, on the south by Texas and Mexico, and on the west by Arizona. This territory is, for the most part, an elevated table-land, traversed by several mountain ranges. The greater portion of the inhabitants are Indians. It is probable that this territory abounds in precious metals, but the mines have not yet been worked very extensively, and the future may reveal vast treas- ures of gold, silver and other metals. 310 TERRITORIES. SANTA FE, The capital, has a population of four thousand six hundred and thirty-eight. The other principal settlements are Albu- querque and Socorre. INDIAN TERRITORY. This territory is bounded on the north by Colorado and Kan- sas, on the east by Missouri and Arkansas, on the south by Texas, and on the west by Texas and New Mexico. This territory was set apart by the United States as a perma- nent home for the Indians. The soil is fertile, productive, and well adapted to grazing. Some of the tribes which people this territory are advanced in civilization. Others are indolent, degraded, and are rapidly diminishing under the influence of intemperance. Tahlequah, a Cherokee town, is the principal place of this territory. The Union Pacific railroad is now completed, forming an easy mode of communication between the states and territories, and there is a prospect that they will now be more rapidly settled. The railroad passes through Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, touches Colorado, and terminates at Sacramento, California. RUSSIAN AMERICA Was purchased by the United States in 1867. Its area is nearly ten times as great as that of Pennsylvania. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic ocean, on the east by British Amer- ica, on the south by the Pacific ocean, and on the west by Behr- ing's sea, Behring's strait, and Arctic ocean. The inhabitants are chiefly Esquimaux, living in huts partly under ground. They are a filthy and degraded race. There are, beside these, about six thousand Russians engaged in trap- ping and fishing. South of the peninsula of Alaska the coast is mountainous, abounding in precipitous cliffs, descending abruptly to the sea. TERRITORIES. 311 North of this peninsula it is low and marshy. Along the coast are groups of volcanic islands, between which and the main land is a remarkable interior channel, safe for navigation at all times. The climate is not as cold as it is in the same latitude on the eastern coasts of the American and Asiatic continents. Sitka, or New Archangel, the principal settlement, is on Baranoff island. CHAPTER VI. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF BRITISH AMERICA. British America comprises Canada East, Canada West, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Prince Edward's Island, Newfoundland, North-west Territory, and Hudson's Bay Terri- tory. The surface is generally level. The] Alleghany mountain system extends into Canada, and terminates in low hills on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. A chain of hills called the Wotchish mountains, separates the basin of the St. Lawrence from that of Hudson's Bay. With these exceptions, it has few elevations of any considerable hight. The climate is subject to great extremes. The summers are very warm, and the winters long and cold. The heat of sum- mer, and the cold of winter is much greater than in the same latitude in Europe. In that portion bordering on the great lakes, the winters are not so cold and the heat of summer is less intense. The Province of Canada is heavily timbered. In the south- eastern portion of this province, the soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of wheat and other grains ; but near the mouth of the St. Lawrence, the climate is too severe and the soil too poor to admit cultivation. The principal rivers are the St. Lawrence and Ottawa. The St. Lawrence, one of the largest rivers of North America, forms the outlet to the great lakes. It is about seven hundred and fifty miles in length, and navigable as far as Montreal for vessels of six hundred tons. Above this point, the navigation is obstructed by rapids. The Ottawa, with a volume of water almost equal to the St. Lawrence, enters this river about forty BRITISH AMERICA. 313 miles west of Montreal. It is about eight hundred miles in length. Its navigation is obstructed by rapids and cataracts. It abounds in beautiful scenery, and its banks are covered with valuable timber. Canada shares with New York in the grand and beautiful scenery of Niagara Falls. The basin of the St. Lawrence is famous for the grandeur of its natural scenery. Besides Niag- ara, it contains the Falls of Montmorenci, seven miles from Quebec, with a perpendicular descent of two hundred and forty feet ; the Falls of Chaudiere, ten miles from Quebec, rushing and foaming over a wild chasm one hundred and twenty-five feet in perpendicular descent ; the Carrillon Falls of the Ottawa, a series of rapids twelve miles in length, and the romantic scenery of the Saguenay river. The banks of this river, varying in hight from five hundred to one thousand five hundred feet, are in many places perpendicular, while in other places they absolutely over- hang the river. The water is very deep. Near its mouth a line of three thousand feet failed to reach the bottom. In other places, its depths varies from one hundred to one thousand feet. The principal towns of British America are Montreal, Quebec, Toronto, Halifax, St. Johns, Hamilton, Ottawa, and Kingston. MONTREAL Was formerly the capital of Canada East. It is situated on the island of Montreal, in the St. Lawrence river, at the mouth of the Ottawa. The city occupies a tract of land about two miles wide, between the river and a beautiful elevation called Royal Mount. It possesses a fine harbor and is extensively engaged in commerce. It contains a number of elegant churches, the finest of which is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, one of the handsomest gothic buildings in North America, and capable of seating from ten to twelve thousand persons, a town hall, a French college, a university, a Roman Catholic theological school, and several classical and scientific academies. The city was founded in 1640. In 1861, the population was about nine- ty thousand. (See views of Montreal.) 314 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF QUEBEC Is situated on the left bank of the St. Lawrence river one hundred and eighty miles above Montreal. The city is beauti- fully situated at the extremity of a narrow table land which forms the bank of the St. Lawrence for about eight miles. The city is actively engaged in commerce. Manufactures are not carried on to any great extent. It contains a large number of elegant public and private buildings. The population in 1861 was about fifty-one thousand. (See views of Quebec.) TORONTO, Formerly the capital of Canada West, is situated on a beau- tiful bay on the north-western shore of Lake Ontario, about three hundred and ninety miles south-west of Montreal. It is one of the most flourishing cities of British America. The harbor, formed by the bay, on which the town is situated, is beautiful and commodious. The city contains many elegant public buildings. The Government and Parliament houses are very plain and unpretending, and have long been in use, but they are soon to be superseded by new buildings. The city was founded in 1794. The population in 1861 was about forty- four thousand eight hundred. HALIFAX, The capital of Nova Scotia, is situated on a deep inlet of the sea on the southern shore of that peninsula. It is actively engaged in commerce with various parts of North America, West Indies and Europe. The population is about thirty thous- and. ST. JOHNS, The capital of Newfoundland, and the most eastern seaport of North America, is situated on a peninsula which projects from the eastern coast of the island of Newfoundland. The shortest distance between any two seaports of Europe and America is from this point to Gal way, Ireland, being one thousand six hun- dred and sixty-five miles. The town is situated on an elevation, and consists principally of one street about a mile in length. The population is about twenty-five thousand. BRITISH AMERICA. 315 HAMILTON Is situated at the head of Burlington bay, at the western ex- tremity of Lake Ontario. In the rear of the city is a mountain rising to a considerable hight, and affording a delightful view of the city and surrounding country. The city was laid out in 1813. The population in 1861 was about nineteen thousand. OTTAWA, One of the most flourishing towns of Canada West, is situated on the right bank of the Ottawa river. It has recently been selected as the capital of Canada. The necessary public build- ings were completed in 1867, and the seat of government removed to this place. The population in 1861 was about fourteen thou- sand six hundred. KINGSTON Is situated on the St. Lawrence river, at the foot of Lake Ontario, about two hundred miles south-west of Montreal. It is a flourishing city and growing rapidly. The population in 1861 was about thirteen thousand seven hundred. CHAPTER VII. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF MEXICO. Mexico, of the grand divisions of North America the fourth in size, and second in population, lies between latitude 15° 58' and 33° 5' N., and longitude 86° 43' and 117° 5' W. This territory is bounded on the north-east and north by the United States — Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California, — and on the east-south-east by Guatemala, a province of Central Amer- ica. On the east the outline forms a semi-circle, which is washed by the Gulf of Mexico ; and on the west, south and south-west is the Pacific Ocean. The general outline of the country is very irregular. The greatest length from north-west to south-east is one thousand nine hundred miles ; greatest width on a paral- lel of latitude is nine hundred and sixty miles ; area, six hun- dred and sixty-eight thousand square miles. The most import- ant indentation in the coast line is the Gulf of California, about six hundred miles long and one hundred miles wide, and lying between the peninsula of California, and Sonora and Sinaloa. The interior of Mexico consists of a vast table-land, rising from five thousand to nine thousand feet above the sea. The chief divisions of this great Mexican plateau are the Chihuahua and Anahuac table-lands, the former from four thousand to six thousand, and the latter from five thousand to nine thousand feet in hight. The table-land of Chihuahua is north of the twenty-fourth parallel, and is a bleak, barren and desolate re- gion. Directly the reverse is the Anahuac plateau, a healthy, rich and fertile tract, where flourishes vegetation peculiar to the temperate zone. The Sierra Madre mountain chain, a continu- ation of the Rocky mountains, crosses the plateau from north to south. The loftiest summits of the mountains of Mexico occur in a chain which extends across the southern portion of MEXICO. 317 the table-lands from east to west. Here are the Smoking Moun- tain, or volcano of Popocatapetl, seventeen thousand seven hun- dred and seventeen feet high; Iztaccihuatl, the White Lady, fifteen thousand seven hundred and five feet high ; the peak of Orizaba, seventeen thousand three hundred and eighty feet high ; CofFre de Perote, thirteen thousand four hundred feet high, and the volcano of Tuxtla, five thousand one hundred and eighteen feet high. About one hundred and seventy-five miles west of the White Lady, is the far-famed volcano of Jurullo, which rose, in September, 1789, from a level plain to the hight of four thou- sand two hundred and sixty-five feet. The descents among the valleys of the Mexican plateau are so gradual, that carriages can travel over it without much diffi- culty. On the contrary, the approach from the sea is steep and precipitous, especially on the eastern side, where the summit can be reached only by two roads. Between the base of the table- land and the Gulf of Mexico, is a considerable interval of low and sandy land. The rivers of Mexico are generally small, and are frequently obstructed by rapids. The largest of these is the Rio Grande del Norte, marking a portion of the boundary between Mexico and the United States. It has a course of one thousand eight hundred miles, and is navigable for small vessels to Matamoras, forty miles from the Gulf of Mexico, which it enters. The Rio de Tampico, formed by the confluence of the Tula and Panuco, enters the Gulf of Mexico after a course of four hundred miles. The other rivers worthy of note are Rio Grande de Santiago and Tecapan, entering the Pacific, the Sinaloa, entering the Gulf of California, and the Conchas, Sabinas and Salinas, afflu- ents of the Rio Grande. The Rio Grande de Santiago, origi- nating in Guanajuato, drains Lake Chapala, and, after a course of seven hundred miles, enters the Pacific near San Bias. Near Guadalaxara the river has sixty falls in the space of three miles. Mexico, like all other countries within the tropics, containing high and low lands, exhibits a great variety of climate. The rainy season generally continues from May till October, and the 318 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY dry from October till May. From the Gulf of Mexico to the summit of the table land will be found three climatic districts, viz. : the hot, swampy, and pestilential lowlands, the temperate regions, found between the hights of two and five thousand feet, and cold and desolate regions above. Vegetation varies with the climate, the lowlands yielding forests of oak, pine, mahogany, ebony, and palm, and the cooler regions wheat, barley, Indian corn, cotton, tobacco, sugar-cane, fruits and spices. The wild animals of Mexico are numerous. The jungles of the lowlands are made the retreat of the cougar, or American lion, ocelot, jaguarundi, tiger-cat, and the more formidable jaguar, or American tiger. The American buffalo, known in Mexico as Cibolo, in mid-winter, sweep in immense herds over the lower districts from the plains of the north-west. The most ferocious of the species of grizzly bear inhabits the northern mountain districts. The tapir, wolf, American lynx, stag, deer, sloth, armadillo, and weasel, are also peculiar to Mexico. Various species of the monkey are found, and the cochineal in- sect is reared with great success. The forests swarm with count- less varieties of the feathered family, as the parrot, humming- bird, and various species of wild game birds. The mineral wealth of Mexico, particularly in gold and silver, is very great. The mines are, however, but imperfectly worked, and are not as productive as in former times. The chief de- posits of gold occur north of the twenty -fourth parallel, on the west side of the Sierra Madre. Silver, variously mixed with sulphur, antimony and arsenic, is found in beds from twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet thick in the state of Guanajuato. The annual product of gold and silver at the beginning of the present century, amounted to about fifteen millions of dollars, of which by far the greater portion was yielded by the silver. Mexico has also mines of iron, copper, lead, zinc, and other useful metals, which, however, have been but little worked. The chief manufactures of Mexico are sugar, aloes, wine, earthenware, silk, paper, and glass. In the city of Mexico are fifty mills engaged in the manufacture of olive oil, and also man- ufactories of silk, producing forty thousand pounds annually. OF MEXICO. 319 The coast on the Gulf of Mexico is flat and sandy, and is therefore deficient in good harbors. On the contrary the Pacific shore is more bold, and abounds with excellent havens. Not- withstanding the unrivaled advantages which the country has for trade, being washed by the Atlantic on one hand and the Pacific on the other, and being rich in vegetable and mineral productions, the commerce of Mexico is extremely limited. Her commercial standing has been on the retrograde ever since her independence of Spain was recognized. The chief exports are gold, silver, cattle, hides, and cochineal. The capital, and largest city of Mexico, is a city of the same name. The other most important cities are La Puebla, Guada- laxara, Guanajuato, Queretaro, Merida, Morelia, Zacatecas, Monterey, and Vera Cruz. MEXICO, The capital, is in the valley of Tenochititlan, on a table land seven thousand four hundred and thirty feet above the sea, and is environed on all sides by lofty mountain peaks. The city is on a plateau, covering an area of seventeen hundred square miles, and embracing in its extent five beautiful lakes. At the time of the conquest by Cortez, the city occupied three islands in Lake Tezcuco, and was approached by four large causeways, which met in the heart of the city. In the center of the city is a fine square of thirty or forty acres, known as Plaza Mayor, and contains besides the cathedral, the National Palace and town house. The chief streets converge towards this square, and are broad, well-paved, and lighted with gas. The cathedral is an imposing building, occupying the site of the great teoealli, or temple of the Aztec god Mixitli. This structure, occupying an entire side of the Plaza Mayor, is five hundred feet long, four hundred and twenty feet wide, and has in front two towers, supported by immense pillars. The choir is of finely carved wood, and the high altar is adorned with gold and silver candle-sticks and crosses. On another side of the Plaza Mayor, is the palatial residence, formerly of the viceroys, and at the present time, of the president. The other buildings 320 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY of interest are the university, directly opposite the National Palace, containing the National Museum, the Church of San Domingo, a beautiful structure surmounted with a dome and lofty spire, and the convents of St. Augustine and St. Francis- co, elegant structures, adorned with a large number of domes and cupolas. In the Plaza Mayor, is the kellenda, a circular stone, on which are carved hieroglyphics, by which the Aztecs used to represent months of the year ; and in the court-yard of the university is a colossal equestrian statue of Charles IV. The other objects worthy of notice, are the magnificent aque- ducts, which supply the city with water ; the Alameda, a fine public park of twelve acres, a great resort for the people on occasions of festivity, and the Paseos, two fine promenades, the one in the eastern, and the other in the western section of the city. Mexico has fifteen churches, fifty monasteries and con- vents, a large number of charitable institutions, a theatre, and a circus, a circular enclosure called the Plaza de Toros, capa- cious enough to accommodate three thousand five hundred per- sons, where are celebrated bull-fights and other public amuse- ments. Mexico is the great focus of the internal trade of the republic. The chief manufactures are carriages, leather, gold-lace, and cigars, which, in connection with gold and silver, are the chief articles of export. Population in 1860, two hundred and five thousand. LA PUEBLA, Called from the beauty of its location, the "city of angels," is a finely built city, and capital of the state of the same name, seventy-six miles south-east of Mexico. The streets are well paved. The city is built chiefly of stone, and has three colleges, and manufactories of glass, soap, earthenwares, etc. Popula- tion in 1860, seventy-one thousand. GUADALAXARA An important city of Mexico, and capital of the state of Jal- isco, is on the southern bank of the Rio Grande de Santiago, two hundred and seventy miles north-west of Mexico. OP MEXICO. 321 The most interesting building in the city is the cathedral, an imposing edifice in the Plaza Mayor. This building does not hold its former architectural rank, as both its towers were de- stroyed, and other injuries sustained, during the earthquake of 1818. The Alameda, or public walk, is a fine promenade, beautifully adorned with trees and flowers. The city has man- ufactories of iron, earthenware, leather and cloth. Population in 1860, sixty-three thousand. GUANAJUATO, A city of Mexico, and capital of a state of its own name, is in a narrow mountain defile, one hundred and sixty miles north- west of Mexico. The city is formed by a cluster of villages, and is extensively engaged in mining. It has seven fine churches, numerous chapels and convents, and a large public granary. Population, fifty thousand. QUERETARO, Capital of a state of the same name, is a manufacturing town, one hundred and ten miles north-west of Mexico. The city has a monastery, in the center of finely ornamented grounds, a large convent, and manufactories of cloth. It is supplied with water by an aqueduct ten miles long. Population, twenty-nine thous- and eight hundred. MERIDA Is an important city in the north-western part of Yucatan, of which it is the capital. It is twenty-five miles from Sisal, its port, and has a considerable trade. The finest building is the cathedral, an imposing structure, in the central square. This square also contains the government house and Bishop's palace. The city has a university and thirteen churches. Population, forty thousand. The inhabitants of Mexico, consisting of whites, Indians, negroes and mixed races, number eight millions two hundred and eighteen thousand. 8 21 322 HISTORY HISTORY OF MEXICO. Mexico was discovered by Francisco Hernandez Cordova, in 1517.' At the time of the discovery, a large portion of the country was peopled by the Aztecs, a race of Indians farther advanced in civilization than the majority of American Indian tribes. The ruins of temples and cities still attest their skill in architecture. They cultivated the land, introduced Indian corn and cotton, built immense monuments and pyramids, and con- structed bridges, aqueducts and roads. In 1518, Grijalva commanded a second expedition to Mexico, and on his return confirmed the glowing accounts of Cordova. The description of mines of gold and silver, and of treasures in cities, awakened the deepest cupidity of the Spaniards, and in 1518, Velasques, then governor of Cuba, dispatched Cortez, a Spanish adventur- er, with an armed force, to Mexico, with instructions to conquer the people and possess himself of their wealth. Cortez landed at San Juan d'Ulloa, and marched, without opposition, to the city of Mexico. Two years of incessant and terrible war follow- ed, till finally, by strategem, and the aid of the adjacent hostile tribes, the Spaniards succeeded in subduing the natives, over- throwing their empire, and adding the vast country of Monte- zuma to the Spanish American possessions. Mexico remained firm in her allegiance to Spain till the period immediately suc- ceeding the French revolution, when the country began to assume a revolutionary aspect. This feeling was greatly intensified by the clergy, who favored the movement, and did much to dissem- inate the growing spirit of discontent. The first revolt was made in 1810, under the leadership of Hidalgo, a country priest. Hidalgo was defeated, and quiet was for a time restored. In 1820, however, the rebellious spirit broke forth anew, and, after a number of severe battles, the independence of the country was acknowledged, and Mexico was proclaimed a constitutional monarchy, with Don Augustin Iturbide as king, under the title of Augustin I. Ever since this period Mexico has been har- assed by jealous and covetous nations from without, and torn by internal dissensions from within. Within the last forty years, there have been no less than seventy revolutions, or different OF MEXICO. 323 governments, in Mexico. Iturbide was deposed, the constitution- al government abolished, and a republican form of government established, in part resembling that of the United States. The first president, General Guadalupe Victoria, was elected in 1825. In 1835, Texas revolted, and became independent of Mexico, and ten years after, in 1845, became one of the United States. In 1845, difficulties arose between Mexico and the United States, concerning the boundary between the two countries, which occa- sioned a long and bloody war. (See United States.) After the close of the war, Mexico was under the direction first, of Santa Anna, and afterwards of Herrera. In 1852, the latter was deposed, and General Cevallos was, for a time, at the head of affairs. He, also, failed to satisfy the people, and was succeed- ed by a number of others, till 1859, when Benito Juarez was elected. His claims were contested by General Miramon, who was at the head of the priestly, or conservative party, and the country was plunged into a civil war. Measures taken at this time by the Mexican authorities, adverse to the interests of several foreign nations, brought into the Mexican gulf a combined fleet of English, French, and Spanish, for the purpose of obtaining redress for the acts offen- sive to them. An armistice was agreed upon, a treaty negotia- ted, which was ratified by all the contending powers, except France, who, after the departure of the English and Spanish fleets, declared war against president Juarez. They obtained possession of Puebla, gained other advantages, and finally, in June, 1863, entered the capital. The feelings of the mass of the people, owing to the horrors of the civil war then raging, were in sympathy with the French ; consequently the invaders were greeted with joyful demonstrations on their arrival at the city of Mexico. A provisional government was organized under the protection of the French troops, which met on the tenth of July, and voted almost unanimously to establish an imperial gov- ernment, and to invite Archduke Maximilian, brother of the emperor of Austria, and son-in-law of King Leopold of Belgium, to accept the throne. This movement did not meet with the approval of the United States, and France could not deem it 324 Mexico. her duty to incur war with that power, in her efforts to rescue Mexico from barbarism. The French troops were withdrawn, and Maximilian was left to his own slender resources to establish the empire. In encountering the opposition of the moral and physical powers of the United States, and with Juarez concen- trating his strengthened forces around him, his success became hopeless. He repulsed the latter in several hard fought battles, but was finally, by treachery and overwhelming numbers, defeat- ed, taken prisoner, and, with his two chief generals, Miramon, (the former rival of Juarez) and Mejia, executed. CHAPTER VIII. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF CENTRAL AMERICA Central America is the name applied to a narrow and irregu- lar country between seven and eighteen degrees north latitude. It is bounded on the north-west, north, and north-east by Chia- pas, Tabasco and Yucatan, provinces of Mexico, Bay of Hondu- ras and Caribbean sea, and on the south-west by the Pacific ocean. At the Isthmus of Panama, its narrowest portion, it is only twenty miles from the Caribbean sea, on the east, to the Pacific ocean, on the west. Greatest length of the country eight hundred and seventy-five miles; greatest width, four hundred miles ; area, two hundred thousand square miles. In surface, Central America bears a general resemblance to Mexico. The table-lands decrease in hight as you advance south, where the surface is varied by a range of low hills, and at the Isthmus of Panama by a series of limestone elevations. Bordering on the south-western edge of the table-land is a line of volcanoes, which form in part the great volcanic chain on the Pacific coast of America. The culminating point of Central America is Volcan de Agua, having an altitude of fifteen thou- sand feet. The chief river on the Pacific coast is the Lempa, rising in the north-western part of the country, forming the boundary between San Salvador and Honduras, and finally crossing the for- mer state and entering an arm of the Pacific. On the Atlantic coast is the San Juan, draining Lake Nicaragua, Bluefield, Cape, and Patook rivers. The San Juan river has a course of one hundred miles, and forms a part of the overland route of one of the lines of California steamers. The chief lake, Nicara- gua, found at an elevation of one hundred and twenty-five feet above the sea, is ninety miles long and thirty miles wide, is in- terspersed by a large number of islands, and, in some places, is two hundred and fifty feet deep. Lake Atitlan, in the north of 326 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY Central America, is twenty-five miles long by ten miles wide, is environed by lofty mountains, and is above eighteen hundred feet deep. The other important lakes are Managua, the waters of which flow into Lake Nicaragua, and Petens, in the northern part of Guatemala. In climate and productions, Central America greatly resem- bles Mexico. The dry season lasts from October to May, and the rainy season from May to October. The thermometer rises as high as eighty-six degrees in March, but generally averages about seventy-eight degrees at mid-day. The low lands yield Indian corn, potatoes, sugar-cane, tobacco, and cocoa, while the more elevated regions are rich in the products of the temperate zone. Central America comprises the five states of Guatemala, Hon- duras, San Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. New Guate- mala, the capital of the state of Guatemala, is the largest city. Other important towns are Comayagua, San Salvador, Leon, and San Jose. NEW GUATEMALA Is one hundred and six miles north-west of San Salvador, on a large and fertile plain, five thousand feet above the level of the sea. The great square contains the chief shops of the city, the cathedral, an archbishop's palace, a vice-regal palace, and government offices. The city is extensively engaged in manu- factures, has sixty churches, five newspaper publications, a university, several other schools, a bull-ring, and a theatre. In the center of the city is a fine public fountain. Population sixty thousand. LEON, An important town of Central America, and capital of the state of Nicaragua, is built on the site of an old Indian town, on a rich and spacious plain between Lake Managua and the Pa- cific ocean. It contains the cathedral, an Episcopal palace, a number of churches, a college, and extensive manufactories of leather and cutlery. Population thirty-five thousand. OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 327 SAN JOSE, A town of Central America, capital of Costa Rica, is fifteen miles west of Matina, and about equi-distant from the Carib- bean sea and Pacific ocean. " It has grown up since the inde- pendence of this region was established, and has no buildings of note, but it has succeeded to the importance and commercial activity of Cartago, the former capital of the state." Popula- tion thirty thousand. The population of Central America is estimated at about two millions one hundred and sixty-two thousand, and consists of whites and Creoles, mestizoes, or the descendants of whites and Indians, and natives. Central America was first discovered by Columbus in 1502, and in 1523 was visited by Pedro Alvarado, who was sent by Cortez to conquer the country. The country remained subject to Spain till 1823, when it threw off the yoke and became a federal republic. CHAPTER IX. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF THE WEST INDIES. The West Indies form three divisions : the Greater Antilles, the Lesser Antilles, and the Bahamas. The Greater Antilles consist of Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica, and Porto Rico. The Lesser Antilles consist of a chain of islands which extend from Porto Rico to South America. The Bahamas are low islands of coral formation. Most of these islands are in possession of European nations. Cuba and Porto Rico belong to Spain ; Jamaica, the Bahamas, and most of the Lesser Antilles to Great Britain, and the re- maining islands, with the exception of Hayti, which is indepen- dent, are owned by France, Denmark, Holland, Sweden, and Venezuela. CUBA, The largest and richest of the islands, is the most important colonial possession of Spain. The island was discovered by Columbus during his first voyage in 1492. He gave it the name of Juana, which was afterwards changed to Fernandina, and again to Santiago, but it is now called by its Indian name, Cuba. As early as 1511 a permanent settlement was made by the Span- iards, who, since that time, have retained possession of the island. The city of Havana was taken possession of by the British in 1762, but was restored the following year. In 1851, Lopez, at the head of a band of United States adventurers, invaded Cuba. His men were all either slain or taken prisoners. Lopez, with six of his companions, was garroted, and fifty of the prisoners shot. The island is now undergoing a revolutionary movement. The Cubans are endeavoring to throw off the dominion of Spain THE WEST INDIES. 329 and become an independent republic. The greater part of the island is now held by the Cubans, who will probably, ere long, succeed in establishing their independence. The surface of the island is generally level. The only eleva- tions of any importance are the Copper mountains, which extend from one extremity of the island to the other, reaching their culminating point at the eastern end at an altitude of about seven thousand feet. Reefs of rocky formation, and marshy tracts of country are found among the low lands of the coast. These reefs penetrate into the sea between two and three miles, render- ing navigation difficult and dangerous. The coast is generally but little above the water level, and is subject to floods and inun- dations. There are some localities, however, where the sea is deep to the water's edge, and in these places are found some of the finest natural harbors in existence. The rivers are not large, and are navigable only for small boats. The climate is tropical. Snow never falls, even on the highest mountains. Vegetation is very luxuriant. The principal pro- ductions are sugar, coffee, tobacco, cotton, cocoa, and indigo. Havana was formerly the capital of the island, but since the breaking out of the revolution the Cuban congress has met at Guaimaro. This town is situated on a plain, and surrounded by a net work of seven small crooked rivers. The surrounding dis- trict is much of it covered with a dense wood, relieved only by the course of the various rivers. The wisdom of the Cubans in selecting Guaimaro as a capital, and fortifying it, is apparent. It would be a difficult battle field for the Spaniards. They would have fearful odds to encounter in plunging into a plain upon which grow dense woods, and through which half a dozen rivers wind and turn, so that none but a resident of the locality would know upon which side he was standing. HAVANA, The former capital, and the principal city of the island, is situated at the head of a beautiful bay on the north-western shore of the island. The harbor is entered by a channel one 330 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY half mile long, and so narrow that only one ship can enter it at the same time. It is deep enough to receive vessels of the largest size. At the mouth of the channel are two strong castles, Punta on the west and Moro on the east. A light is fixed upon the latter, one hundred and forty-four feet high, which can be seen at a great distance. Viewed from a distance, the city presents a picturesque and imposing appearance, but on a closer inspection it is found to possess but few attractions. The streets are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty, and are lined with massive stone buildings, with barred windows, which give the whole town a dreary and gloomy aspect. The city, however, is not entirely destitute of beauty, for, besides a number of handsome public buildings, it contains several parks and public squares, and a great many fountains. The Plaza de Armas is a beautiful enclosure, containing paved walks, foun- tains, and flowers, and is the site of the palaces of the governor, and the residences of the nobility. Havana is a bishop's See, and has a handsome display of re- ligious establishments. The bishop's garden is one of the most delightful retreats of the city. Shady walks, lined with flowers and plants and ornamental trees, among which the cocoanut and palm are conspicuous, are found in large numbers throughout the grounds. The city contains a number of large churches, richly oramen- ted with gold and silver lamps and images. A large cathedral contains the ashes of Columbus, which were brought from San Domingo in 1796. The population of the city, including its suburbs, is about one hundred and forty thousand. (See views of Havana.) HAYTI, The second in size of the West Indies, is a rich and beautiful island. The coast is irregular, being indented by numerous gulfs and bays, and presenting corresponding projections. The island was discovered by Columbus, during his first voyage. In 1773 the western part of the island was ceded to France. In OF THE WEST INDIES. 331 1821 a revolution broke out, and the inhabitants succeeded in establishing for themselves first an empire, then an independent republic. The island is crossed by three mountain chains, between which are extensive plains and savannas. The vegetation, like all tropical countries, is very luxuriant. Majestic trees and the richest flowering plants clothe the mountains and adorn the val- leys, forming some of the richest natural scenery on the globe. The usual tropical fruits and vegetables, such as oranges, pine apples, melons, grapes, plantains, bananas, yams, etc., are abundant. There are several lakes in the south-western part of the island. The principal rivers rise in the central mountain chain. Their navigation is obstructed by sand-bars. The population of the island is estimated at about nine hun- dred and forty-three thousand. JAMAICA Is a beautiful and fertile island. It has a coast line of about five hundred miles, and is indented by a number of excellent harbors. The general appearance of the island is very beauti- ful. It is traversed in all directions by lofty mountains, covered with stately forests and intersected by vales, exhibiting the most romantic scenery. The principal rivers are the Minho, Black, and Cobre. The commerce of the island is not in a very flourishing con- dition. The productions and exports have fallen off considera- bly during the last two or three years. The population of the island is estimated at about three hun- dred and seventy-eight thousand. PORTO RICO, The fourth in size of the West Indies, is about ninety miles in length, and thirty-six in width. The coast is indented by numerous bays and gulfs, deep enough for vessels of considera- ble burden, but, owing to the tremendous ground seas, only 332 THE WEST INDIES. three of them are safe for vessels the year round. The climate is mild. The inhabitants are principally engaged in agricultural pursuits. The principal productions are sugar, molasses, coffee, cotton and tobacco. The population numbers about five hundred thousand. CHAPTER X. GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY OF SOUTH AMERICA. South America is a great peninsula, stretching from the Isth- mus of Panama, in latitude 12° 30' K, to latitude 55° 59' S., and terminating in the bold and rocky promontory of Cape Horn. From the latter point, passing north over the rocky wastes of Patagonia, the grassy plains and extensive forests of the La Plata and Amazon, and crossing the lofty mountains of the Parina system, Point Gallinas, the northern extremity of this division, is reached after a journey of over four thousand eight hundred miles. Its greatest breadth from east to west, is three thousand two hundred and thirty miles, and it contains over six hundred and fifty thousand square miles. In South America there are three great mountain systems, viz.: Andean, the system of the Parina, and the Brazilian system. The Andean system extends, in a grand unbroken range, from the Isthmus of Panama, to the Straits of Magellan, a distance of four thousand five hundred miles. They run near- ly parallel with the Pacific coast, and below 23° south latitude, consist of but a single chain. North of this point, several ranges run in parallel directions. The Andean mountains are inferior in hight only to the Himalaya range of Asia ; and reach their culminating point with Sorata, twenty-four thousand eight hundred and twelve feet above the sea. The Parina range, also called the Highlands of Guiana, having a length of nine hundred miles, comprises several parallel ranges, and separates the basins of the Orinoco and Rionegro rivers. They extend over a tract of country about three hundred and fifty miles wide, and have an average elevation of four thousand feet, though many of the peaks rise to a much greater hight. The Duida has an altitude of eight thousand five hundred feet, and the Maravaca towers still higher, being ten thousand five hundred 334 GEOGRAPHICAL HISTORY feet high. The Brazilian mountains extend along the south- eastern coast of Brazil, a distance of over two thousand miles. They have an average elevation of three thousand five hundred feet, and are found at a distance of from twenty to eighty miles from the shore. The culminating point of this range is mount Itamba, reaching an altitude of five thousand nine hundred and sixty feet. The Andes rise almost perpendicularly from the Pacific coast, but towards the interior the descent is more gradual. Among the mountain peaks of South America, may be men- tioned the Sahama, twenty-three thousand and fourteen, Acon- cagua, twenty-three thousand, Tupungato, twenty-two thousand four hundred and fifty, Gualateiri, tWenty-two thousand, and Chimborazo, twenty-one thousand and sixty-five feet high. Among the volcanoes, Cotopaxi, Pichincha and Tunguragua, in Equador, Aconcagua, in Chili, and Gualateiri and Arequipa, in Peru, are the most important. Cotopaxi is an active volcano on the eastern slope of the Andes, in latitude 41' south, and longitude 78° 42' west. It has an altitude of eighteen thousand eight hundred and eighty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and rises nine thousand eight hundred feet above the table-land of Quito. The upper four thousand feet forms a perfect cone, which, except in the immediate vicinity of the crater, is covered with snow throughout the year. The lava and stones, ejected from this volcano, cover an area around its base of sixty square miles. Flames have been known to issue from Cotopaxi three thousand feet above the crater ; and the roaring caused by its eruptions can be heard at a distance of two hundred miles. During an eruption in 1743, the flames forced several new vents near the summit. The last great eruption occurred in 1803. (See views of Cotopaxi.) The volcano of Pichincha is situated eleven miles north-west of Quito. The summit of the volcano, found at an altitude of fifteen thousand nine hundred and twenty-four feet, is covered with ice and snow throughout the year. The most remarkable feature of Pichincha is its crater, which is three miles in cir- cumference and one and one-fourth miles deep. Prior to the OF SOUTH AMERICA. 335 Spanish invasion, Pichincha was an active volcano, since which time it has been silent. (See views of Pichincha.) The Tun-