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 Nuremberg and Back 
 
 3. (BxxVb (Jolibau 
 
 
 BY 
 
 AMY NEALLY 
 
 ILLUSTRA TED 
 
 
 NEW YORK 
 E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY 
 
 31 West Twenty-third Street 
 1892 
 

 Copyright, 1892 
 
 BY E. P- DUTTON AND COMPANY 
 
 IFthb library! 
 
 jjOF CONGRESSI 
 
 Washington! 
 
 BocMueU anU aTrj^crjiU 
 
 BOSTON 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAGE 
 
 I. An Unexpected Pleasure 11 
 
 II. New York for the First Time .... 19 
 
 III. Life on a Steamer 25 
 
 IV. A First Glimpse ok England ..... 32 
 V. A Week in London , . . . 36 
 
 VI. Off for the Continent ........ 44 
 
 VII. Up the Rhine 50 
 
 VIII. The Legend of the Lorely 58 
 
 IX. Mayence to Nuremberg 66 
 
 X. Nuremberg TO 
 
 XI. Nuremberg. — Continued 82 
 
 XII. Strasbourg 91 
 
 XIII. Homeward Bound 101 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ece 
 
 Fifth Avenue Hotel, New York Frontispi 
 
 The Great Steamer backed out into the River, 22 
 
 Houses of Parliament 29 
 
 Nelson Column 36 
 
 Tower of London 41 
 
 Hampton Court . . 42 
 
 Brussels Bourse 47 
 
 Cologne Cathedrai , 51 
 
 La ii neck Castle 55 
 
 Mouse Tower 62 
 
 Mayence — general view 67 
 
 Nuremberg Walls 71 
 
 Albrecht Durer's House 73 
 
 Nuremberg Castle 75 
 
 Nuremberg 82 
 
 Strasbourg Cathedral — side view 91 
 
 Strasbourg Storks , 95 
 
 Strasbourg-Cathedral Clock 97 
 
 Place de la Concorde 102 
 
 Petit Trianon 109 
 
 Thames Embankment . 112 
 
TO NUREMBERG AND BACK, 
 
 A GIRL'S HOLIDAY. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 AN UNEXPECTED PLEAS T I! E. 
 
 /"~\NE day in the early spring, Alice Winter came 
 home from school, and, after the usual ques- 
 tion at the door, "Is mamma at home?" rushed 
 upstairs, and found to her great surprise that her 
 papa was at home, talking very earnestly to Mrs. 
 Winter. 
 
 When Alice came into the room, Mr. Winter 
 stopped talking, and she wondered very much what 
 they could have been talking about so earnestly, as 
 all she heard was her papa asking, " Do you think 
 we had better take her with us ? " 
 
12 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 " Why, papa ! What is the matter ? Are you 
 going away ? Are you sick ? What made you come 
 home so early '.' were the questions which Alice 
 gave rapidly, without waiting for an answer. 
 
 Mr. Winter said, "Yes, dear, I am obliged to go 
 to Nuremberg, Germany, on business immediately, 
 and mamma is trying to make up her mind 
 whether it is best for her to go with me. She 
 does not like to leave you for so long a time, and 
 we do not think it wise to take you with us, 
 when you are getting on at school so nicely." 
 
 " papa, please take me with you. I shall 
 learn just as much on such a lovely trip as at 
 school, and you know I can take care of mamma, 
 and keep her from being lonely when you are busy. 
 papa, please ask mamma to let me go. I 
 should be so unhappy to stay without you, even 
 with dear Aunt Edith, and I know there is where 
 you would send me." 
 
 "Alice, dear, go to your room and get ready for 
 dinner, and leave us to talk it over," said Mr. 
 Winter. " My dear little daughter knows that no 
 
AN UNEXPECTED PLEASURE. l-> 
 
 matter which way we decide, it will be as we 
 think is best for all of us. You know it is as 
 hard for us to leave you as it will be for you to 
 let us go." 
 
 x\lice left the room without another word, with her 
 heart beating very fast from the excitement of it all. 
 
 The thought of going to Europe across the great 
 ocean was a very happy one to a bright girl of 
 fifteen who was studying all the time about the 
 places she would visit and the objects of interest 
 she would see, if her papa would only decide to 
 take her. 
 
 Alice sat down by the window of her pretty 
 room, and looked out on the village street, far aw r ay 
 in the northern part of the State of New York. 
 She wondered how the ocean looked, as she had 
 never seen any larger bodv of water than that of 
 Lake Erie, when she went with her mother to make 
 a visit in Cleveland. 
 
 She also wondered if her state-room on the 
 steamer would be as large as the room she was in ; 
 also, would she be sick, and how would all those 
 
14 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 wonderful cities look ; if they could be as beautiful 
 as the pictures she had seen of them. 
 
 Then she remembered that only last week she had 
 been studying about the quaint old city of Nurem- 
 berg, and wishing she c6uld go there and see all 
 its curiosities. 
 
 Alice was startled by the dinner-bell, and could 
 not even wait to brush her hair, she was so anxious 
 to know what her papa had decided. 
 
 As Alice went into the dining-room with a very 
 wistful look in her deep-brown eyes, Mr. Winter 
 said, " Well, dear, we have decided to take you 
 with us, and as it is now Wednesday, and we sail 
 Saturday from New York on the ' Etruria,' you 
 will be very busy getting ready, and you must help 
 your mamma all you can/' 
 
 Alice threw her arms around Mr. Winter's neck, 
 crying with joy, saying at the same time, " Oh, you 
 dear, darling papa, how kind and good you are, and 
 how I do love you ! " 
 
 After kissing him again and again, she went to 
 her mamma and nearly smothered her with kisses. 
 
AN" UNEXPECTED PLEASURE. 15 
 
 Mr. Winter had never been abroad, though he had 
 large business interests there, which had been at- 
 tended to by a clerk in whom he had the utmost 
 confidence. This clerk had been taken very sud- 
 denly and dangerously ill, Mr. Winter had no one 
 else he could send, and found he must go himself 
 and at once. 
 
 He telegraphed to the Cunard office for state- 
 rooms, and went home to tell his wife, hardly 
 thinking she would go with him at such short 
 notice, or leave Alice. 
 
 Mrs. Winter was not willing he should go with- 
 out her, and soon decided not only to go, but to 
 take Alice with them. 
 
 Alice could hardly eat any dinner, she was so 
 happy and full of excitement. 
 
 The next morning; Alice went to school to get 
 her books and tell the wonderful news to her 
 teacher and school-mates. 
 
 They were nearly as interested as she, for it was 
 quite an event for any one to go to Europe from 
 that quiet village. 
 
Hi TO NUREMBERG AXI> BACK. 
 
 It was decided then and there that all would be 
 at the station to see her off on Friday. 
 
 When Alice went to her room she found there a 
 new steamer-trunk marked "A. W. " in large let- 
 ters, and then she was busy indeed getting it- 
 packed and deciding what to take with her. 
 
 Mrs. Winter came in while Alice was almost in 
 despair and said, " This is to be such a hurried 
 trip you will need only a couple of dresses, but 
 you must take all your warm wraps." 
 
 Alice laughed and said, " I do not think I shall need 
 them in the spring;" but mamma said, "It is always 
 cold at sea, and you will need your winter clothes." 
 
 Friday afternoon our little party started for New 
 York, with the best wishes of their friends, who 
 came to the station for the very last " good-byes." 
 Alice even shed a few tears, but they were soon 
 wiped away, and a happy face looked from the car 
 window, which fortunately was on the side over- 
 looking the Hudson River. 
 
 Alice had never seen that lovely river before, and 
 naturally was delighted. 
 
AN UNEXPECTED PLEASURE. 17 
 
 When they passed the Catskill Mountains it was 
 so clear she could see the famous old Mountain 
 House, and, beyond, the immense Kauterskill Hotel, 
 which seemed almost in the clouds, it looked so 
 high. 
 
 West Point was the next object of interest, and 
 Alice did hope she could go there sometime and 
 see the cadets do some of their drills. 
 
 When they were opposite the Palisades, which 
 stood up in their grandeur, with the softened 
 tints of the setting sun settling upon them, Alice 
 said, wt I know I shall see nothing in Europe any 
 finer than that." 
 
 Very soon the tall spires and smoke in the dis- 
 tance showed that they were drawing near New 
 York, and after leaving the Hudson they followed 
 the pretty Harlem River, which makes an island of 
 New York City. 
 
 Alice was much interested in the bridges, there 
 seemed to be so many of them, and papa told her 
 that the one then in sight was the new Washing- 
 ton bridge, just completed. The next was High 
 
18 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 bridge, which carries the water over the river into 
 the city. When it was finished it was said to be 
 the finest engineering in the country. 
 
 The next bridge was the continuation of the ele- 
 vated railroad, and then came Macomb's Dam bridge, 
 the oldest of them all, and used simply for driving 
 and walking across, and looked, Alice thought, quite 
 unsafe. 
 
 The pretty Madison Avenue bridge was the last 
 they saw as they crossed their own bridge, and were 
 soon in a tunnel which Alice thought would never 
 end. 
 
 When they came out of the tunnel the train was 
 nearly at the station, where the noise and bustle 
 were very confusing, and they were glad to get 
 into a carriage to be driven to the Fifth Avenue 
 Hotel. 
 
 As it was quite dark, Alice thought it was like 
 a glimpse of fairy-land when they reached Madison 
 Square, with its electric lights shining on the trees, 
 and all the bright lights around the hotel. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 NEW YOEK FOR THE FIRST TIME. 
 
 IV /TR. WINTER having telegraphed for rooms, found 
 them ready for him ; and on going down to 
 dinner they were delighted to see the corridors and 
 dining-room crowded with people, many of them pub- 
 lic characters whom he could point out to Alice, 
 who was so excited she felt the entire evening as 
 if she were in a dream. 
 
 Of all the prominent men there Alice was the 
 most interested in General Sherman, with his kind, 
 rugged face. 
 
 The "Etrnria" sailed at noon on Saturday, and Mrs. 
 Winter and Alice spent the morning buying a few 
 last things, such as a hat and hood and comfort- 
 able steamer-chairs. 
 
 At eleven o'clock a Fifth Avenue Hotel stao-e was 
 at the door, and several people beside themselves 
 
20 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 went in it to the steamer. The ladies had flowers 
 and baskets of fruit, and seemed so bright and 
 happy that Alice for the first time felt a little lonely 
 and homesick. 
 
 On reaching the dock there were so many people 
 going on and coming off the steamer, and pushing 
 each other, it was almost impossible to cross the 
 gang-plank and reach their own state-rooms. 
 
 Finally they found them, and. instead of nice large 
 rooms, they were so very small that Alice felt she 
 never could live in them for a week or ten days, 
 and the berths were so narrow she said, " papa, 
 you can never get into one of those in the world." 
 
 "Oh, yes, I can." said Mr. Winter, "and perhaps 
 before we reach Liverpool I shall wish they were 
 narrower yet."' 
 
 Mrs. Winter and Alice had one room, and Mr. 
 Winter was across the passage with another gentle- 
 man. 
 
 After settling their valises and rugs they went 
 up on deck to see the people, and also the last of 
 the city itself. Large baskets of fruits and flowers 
 
NEW YORK FOR THE FIRST TIME. 21 
 
 in every shape were constantly being brought on 
 board, and much to Alice's delight there was a large 
 bunch of violets from her school friends at home. 
 
 She had been looking at the other people a little 
 enviously, especially at a girl of her own age who 
 had many friends to see her, and her arms full of 
 flowers. 
 
 Very soon the gong sounded, and Alice, who had 
 never heard one, put her hands to her ears to shut 
 out the noise. As soon as the man had passed by 
 Alice said, — 
 
 "What is that?" 
 
 "That is a gong, dear," said her papa, 'and is 
 now being used to notify the people who are not 
 sailino; on the steamer that it is time to <j;o 
 ashore." 
 
 The people who left kissed their friends hurriedly, 
 and went down the gang-plank as if afraid they 
 might be carried away, after all. 
 
 After the people were on the dock and the mail- 
 bags had been put on the steamer, very slowly but 
 surely the great steamer backed out into the river. 
 
22 TO NUKEMBEKG AND BACK. 
 
 
 THE GREAT STEAMER BACKED OUT INTO THE RIVER. Page 21. 
 
 Tugs turned her around, and carefully she steamed 
 toward the ocean, trying to avoid the many boats 
 moving about the river in all directions. 
 
 Alice was rather frightened, and thought they cer- 
 tainly would run into some of them. 
 
 Many of the passengers were still waving to their 
 friends, who were also waving to them from the 
 dock as long as they could distinguish it at all. 
 
NEW YORK FOR THE FIRST TIME. 23 
 
 Very soon they could see the famous statue of the 
 Goddess of Liberty, that holds its light so high in 
 the air ; then lovely Staten Island, with its green 
 hills and fine houses. 
 
 The two forts, Hamilton and Wordsworth, which 
 guard the entrance to the harbor, were soon left 
 behind, and on the left could be seen Coney Island, 
 with its large hotels and elephant and high elevator. 
 
 Suddenly, as they were looking at the largest 
 hotel of all, the one at Rockaway Beach, the 
 steamer stopped. Alice, rather startled, said, — 
 
 " Oh, dear ! what is the matter ? " 
 
 "They are going to drop the pilot," said her 
 papa. 
 
 " Where ? " said Alice. " In the water ? " 
 
 "Oh, no," said Mr. Winter; "do you see that 
 small boat rowing towards us?" 
 
 kk Yes, papa. Will he drop into that ? He never 
 can ; he will surely fall into the water." 
 
 Mr. Winter smiled and told her to go and watch 
 from the rail, which she did, and soon saw the 
 pilot go down the side of the steamer by a rope 
 
24 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 and drop into the little row-boat, where two men 
 were waiting to row him to the pretty pilot-boat 
 No. 4, which was quite a distance away. 
 
 The steamer started immediately, and in five 
 minutes the row-boat was only a speck on the 
 water. 
 
 " There is another hotel, papa. What is it?" said 
 Alice. 
 
 " That is the Long Beach Hotel, and you will 
 not see another until you reach Liverpool," said 
 her papa. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 LIFE ON A STEAMEE. 
 
 "y^jOME, Alice, 1 ' said Mrs. Winter, "we will go 
 clown to our state-room and unpack our trunks 
 while we are in smooth water, for to-morrow morn- 
 ing it may be so rough Ave cannot get out of our 
 berths at all." 
 
 Alice went with her mamma and helped put every- 
 thing in order, but there were so few hooks and no 
 bureau she did not know at first where to put any- 
 thing. 
 
 Mrs. Winter decided to sleep in the lower berth 
 and have Alice on the sofa, which gave them the top 
 berth for a, bureau, and they found themselves very 
 comfortable. 
 
 Alice wanted to put some little things around to 
 look pretty, but her mamma said, " No, dear, for if 
 the ship rolls they will be all over the floor." 
 
26 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Alice laughed and said, " I guess the ' Etruria ' 
 never rolls enough for that ; she is too big." 
 
 "Wait and see," quietly said her mamma. 
 
 Mrs. Winter said, " Now we will put on our warm 
 wraps and go on deck/' 
 
 Mr. Winter had found their chairs and put them in 
 a nice place. Just as they were being settled in 
 them, the gong was sounded again. " That is for 
 lunch this time," said Mr. Winter, "and I for one am 
 glad, for I am very hungry." 
 
 On going to the saloon they were delighted to find 
 that their seats were at the captain's table, and any 
 one who has crossed the ocean with Captain Hains 
 knows what a treat they had before them, if it 
 should be a nice passage and he could be in his seat 
 at the head of the table. 
 
 In the afternoon the ship rolled, and when dinner 
 was announced Mrs. Winter thought she would take 
 hers on deck. She was not sick, but was afraid if 
 she left the air she might be. Mr. Winter and Alice 
 went to the table, and Alice was surprised to see the 
 vacant seats around the room. The racks were on 
 
LIFE ON A STEAMER. 27 
 
 I 
 
 the table, so the dishes were held in place, but Alice 
 found it rather uncomfortable keeping her chair. 
 
 In the morning Mrs. Winter was too ill to leave 
 her berth, but Alice never felt better in her life. The 
 captain was so pleased to have her at the table to 
 breakfast he put her in her mamma's seat next to 
 him, and when she told him it was her birthday he 
 said, * k You shall have a nice cake for your dinner." 
 
 After breakfast Alice went up on deck with Mr. 
 Winter, who put her in a comfortable place and 
 covered her up nice and warm. He went down to 
 see his wife. 
 
 The sea was a deep, bright blue, with lovely white 
 caps, and when the sun shone on them Alice could 
 see a rainbow on every wave. 
 
 Alice became tired of sitting in her chair, and went 
 to the rail to look over the side and see how pretty 
 the water looked as the ship cut through it. Soon 
 the young girl whom she had seen the clay before 
 came up to her and said, " Have you ever crossed 
 before?" 
 
 Alice said, " No, have you ? " 
 
28 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 * k Oh, yes, several times ; and I do enjoy every 
 minute, for I am never sick." 
 
 Alice asked her name, and she answered, " Nellie 
 Ford. What is yours and where are you going?" 
 
 Alice told her name and that she was going to 
 Nuremberg. 
 
 Nellie said, " I have never been there. We are 
 going to Brussels, and it is such a beautiful city." 
 
 They talked on until the gong sounded, and 
 agreed to meet again after lunch. 
 
 At dinner that night Alice found the cake which 
 the captain had promised her on the table. After 
 thanking him, she asked if she might send a piece 
 of it to her new friend. 
 
 wt Of course, my dear," said the captain. " It is 
 yours to do with just as you please." 
 
 The second # day was very much like the first 
 only Mrs. Winter was able to be on deck, and 
 Nellie Ford introduced her to Mr. and Mrs. Ford, 
 and they soon settled to a little party of six, as 
 passengers on a steamer are very apt to do. 
 
 The two girls were together all the time, and 
 
tH 
 
30 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 joined in a game of ring toss with some more of 
 the young people. 
 
 The days passed away, one very much like 
 another — some pleasant, some stormy and rough, 
 some foggy, with the whistles being blown every 
 two minutes. Alice felt that she should be glad 
 when she saw land again. 
 
 One night they met a steamer, and it did look 
 very pretty all lighted up. The "Etruria" set off 
 Roman candles, which were answered by the steamer, 
 and Alice thought that was the most interesting; 
 evening of all, even more so than the night of 
 the concert. 
 
 The "Etruria" made a very quick trip, and 
 reached Queenstown Friday afternoon. Alice was 
 writing letters in the saloon to send home, when 
 suddenly the steamer stopped. 
 
 " Oh, dear, what is the matter ? " she cried, jump- 
 ing to her feet. A gentleman sitting near her said, 
 " It is a foar, and as we are very near Fastnet 
 Rock they do not dare to go on." 
 
 Soon a gun was heard in answer to the steamer's 
 
LIFE ON A STEAMER. 31 
 
 whistle, and the gentleman said, "We must be right 
 there now." 
 
 Alice went up on deck rather frightened, but as 
 suddenly as the fog had settled upon them it 
 lifted, and directly ahead of them was the straight 
 rock rising out of the water like a sentinel. 
 
 The " Etruria " ran up her signal flags and then 
 started on, and in three hours was off Queenstown 
 Harbor, where the tug was waiting for their mails 
 and the few passengers who wished to be landed. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 A FIKST GLIMPSE OF ENGLAND. 
 
 QUEENSTOWN was soon a thing of the past, and 
 when they went to their rooms the packing 
 was finished, so that the next morning all the time 
 could he spent upon the deck until they landed. 
 
 It was a clear, bright morning, but very cold 
 and windy, when the steamer was left to take the 
 tug. On leaving the tug, Alice and Nellie were 
 very careful to each put her left foot first on the 
 dock, as they had been told it would bring them 
 good luck. 
 
 There was not much to interest our party in 
 Liverpool except the docks, which of course Alice 
 had been told were the finest in the world. After 
 leaving the Custom House they were driven to the 
 North Western Hotel, and the ladies and two girls 
 waited in the parlor in front of an enormous soft- 
 
A FIRST GLIMPSE OF ENGLAND. 33 
 
 coal fire, while Mr. Ford and Mr. Winter went 
 into the station, which joins the hotel, and engaged 
 a compartment for London. 
 
 Opposite the hotel they conlcl see St. George's 
 Hall, with its two statues in front, one of Queen 
 Victoria and the other of her husband, Prince 
 Albert, when they were young. 
 
 Suddenly a noise of horses being rapidly driven 
 was heard, and the girls ran to the window just 
 in time to see the high sheriff's carriage of state 
 being driven to the hotel to take him away to open 
 court. It was very elegant, with its satin linings 
 and the four beautiful horses. 
 
 The footmen stood up at the buck of the carriage, 
 holding themselves on by leather straps. Four men 
 in uniform stood in the street and blew on trum- 
 pets until the sheriff was out of sight. 
 
 The girls thought it very interesting, but Mrs. 
 Winter said, "A sheriff's position in England must 
 be very different from that in America, where they 
 usually go about in the quietest manner possible." 
 
 Mr. Winter and Mr. Ford came in and told them 
 
34 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 it was time to get some lunch. A very nice one 
 they had, and Alice was particularly interested in the 
 table on wheels, with the joints of meat on it, 
 which was pushed about to each person to select the 
 cut of meat he liked. 
 
 Mr. Ford advised their going to the Hotel Vic- 
 toria in London, as he had tried many others and 
 liked that one the best ; so they had telegraphed for 
 rooms before starting on the two o'clock train. 
 All the party were in good spirits, and glad to be 
 on dry land. 
 
 Mrs. Winter and Alice did not like the carriage, 
 as it is called in England, as well as the drawing- 
 room car at home, but enjoyed every moment of 
 the journey. 
 
 England is like a large garden, every portion 
 beinu; under cultivation ; the fields are so green and 
 full of large, beautiful sheep grazing everywhere. 
 
 " mamma, how much more lovely the hedges 
 are than our fences and walls at home ! " said 
 Alice. 
 
 "Yes, indeed," said Mrs. Winter. "I have always 
 
A FIRST GLIMPSE OF EXOLAXD. 35 
 
 heard they were lovely, but I did not think they 
 would add so much to the beauties of the land- 
 scape." 
 
 Harrow, with its school on the hill, was passed. 
 and caused some interest to the girls. London was 
 reached before they realized it, and they were driven 
 to the Hotel Victoria in two four-wheeled cabs 
 called "growlers" — why, they did not know, unless 
 people "growl" at their lack of comfort in every 
 way; no springs, narrow, high seats, generally dirty. 
 and a worn-out old horse, whipped the most of the 
 time by a very poor driver. 
 
 Their rooms were read}" for them, and glad enough 
 they were to get their dinner and go to bed to get 
 rested for the following days, to which the Winters 
 were looking forward with great interest. 
 
NELSON COLUMN. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A WEEK IN LONDON. 
 
 QjUNDAY our party rested, but on Monday morning 
 they started for Westminster Abbey, hardly look- 
 ing at anything on the way, though they went by 
 Trafalgar Square, with the high column erected to Nel- 
 son, which stands there so proudly, with its beautiful 
 lions made by Landseer lying so quietly at its base. 
 
A WEEK IN LONDON. 37 
 
 A pleasant morning was passed at the Abbey, and 
 the Poets' Corner proved to be their greatest attrac- 
 tion, as it is with most Americans. The chair in 
 which Queen Victoria sat when she was crowned 
 was shown to them, but Alice said she thought it 
 was a common-looking: chair, and wondered why the 
 Queen did not have one that was more imposing. 
 
 On leaving the Abbey they naturally turned tow- 
 ards the Houses of Parliament, and wishing to get 
 even a better view, they walked part way over 
 Westminster bridge, where they also saw St. Thomas's 
 Hospital, situated on the Surrey side of the Thames. 
 
 The walk back to the hotel by way of the Em- 
 bankment was very pleasant, with its large buildings 
 one side, and the river with its boats moving up 
 and down on the other, and the rumble of the un- 
 derground railroad beneath their feet. On reaching 
 home they were so tired it was decided to rest in 
 the afternoon and visit Madame Tussaud's wax- 
 works in the evening. 
 
 After dinner Mr. Ford said, kk How would you like 
 to go to the wax-works by the underground rail- 
 
38 To NUKEMBEKG AXD BACK. 
 
 way? It is not very far, if you think you won't 
 mind the smoke and confined air. The station is 
 very near, and we shall be left at the next building 
 to the wax-works. I have been driven there and it 
 only took about twenty minutes, so I think we can 
 go by train in ten." 
 
 " All right," said Mr. Winter ; l * it will be a good 
 opportunity to see how we shall like it." 
 
 Off they all started to the Charing Cross station. 
 The girls did not like going down underground so 
 far, but Alice said to Nellie, " 1 think I will not 
 say much about it unless mamma does." 
 
 After passing three stations, Mr. Winter said, " This 
 air is stifling, do you not think we are nearly there ? " 
 
 " Oh, yes," said Mr. Ford, " I think it must be 
 the next station." 
 
 When they reached it, it was not theirs, and Mr. 
 Ford called out to the guard, " How many more 
 stations before we reach Baker Street?" 
 
 The man looked at him rather queerly, and said, 
 " Fourteen. Where did you get on the train ? " 
 
 "At Charing Cross," said Mr. Ford. 
 
A WEEK IN LONDON. 39 
 
 " Oh," said the guard, "you have taken a train for 
 the outer circle and come the longer way ; some one 
 should have told you/' 
 
 The train moved on, and our party had nothing 
 to do hut sit patiently and try not to think how 
 close and Stirling the air was getting. 
 
 When they were once more in the fresh air Mr. 
 Ford said. " Driving in cabs suits me pretty well, 
 and that is the way I am going home, if I go 
 alone." 
 
 There was not a dissenting voice, and after a very 
 pleasant evening they had a lovely drive home in 
 three hansom cabs, and it only took them sixteen 
 minutes. 
 
 Tuesday morning was spent in visiting the Bank 
 of England and St. Paul's Cathedral, where the 
 young people and the gentlemen went upstairs to 
 the Whispering Gallery. 
 
 They all went down to the Crypt, where are many 
 tombs, among them those of Nelson and Wellington. 
 
 The great object of interest to them was the 
 immense funeral car which was made to carry 
 
40 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 the body of the Duke of Wellington through the 
 streets of London to his last resting-place. 
 
 The wheels were made from pieces of cannon 
 picked from the field of Waterloo. 
 
 Mr. Ford took them to a quaint, old-fashioned 
 place noted for its soups, for lunch. 
 
 In the afternoon the Tower of London was 
 visited, and of course was of more interest to 
 the Winters than to the Fords. 
 
 To Alice it was very realistic, it was so full of 
 English history. She could tell her mamma much 
 more than could the man, in his strange costume, 
 who showed them around. 
 
 That night the ladies and the two girls were 
 too tired to go out again, so Mr. Ford took Mr. 
 Winter and thev did ;i little sight-seeing; on their 
 own account. 
 
 Wednesday was given up to visiting the Buck- 
 ingham Palace stables, where they saw the Queen's 
 famous ponies that are only used on state occa- 
 sions ; and the South Kensington Museum, which 
 they found very interesting. 
 
tower of London. — Page 40. 
 
42 
 
 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 HAMPTON COURT. 
 
 In the evening they went to the theatre, and 
 Alice thought it very strange to go downstairs to 
 their seats. The audience looked so much better 
 than in America, as the ladies were in evening 
 dress and the u;entlenien in dress suits. 
 
 Thursday was a lovely day, and was spent at 
 Hampton Court. They went on the outside of a 
 coach, and what a lovelv drive it was through 
 Richmond and Bushy Park, with its wonderful horse- 
 chestnut trees all in bloom ! 
 
 The coach stopped at a little inn beside the 
 river, where they lunched before visiting the famous 
 
A WEEK IN LONDON. 43 
 
 court, once the home of Henry the Eighth, and 
 presented to him by Cardinal Wolsey. It is now 
 the home of certain ladies of small income who 
 are alone in the world. They are selected by the 
 Queen, and of course have only one portion of the 
 palace. 
 
 The remainder is occupied as state apartments 
 and a famous picture-gallery, beside a gun-room 
 only second in interest to that of the Tower. 
 
 Friday was given to Windsor Castle and the 
 Crystal Palace. 
 
 Saturday they shopped and visited the Royal 
 Academy, where they saw a beautiful collection of 
 paintings, and only wished there was more time 
 to spend looking at them. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ford decided to go with the 
 Winters as far as Brussels, and as they were 
 to start on Monday it was thought best to keep 
 very quiet on Sunday. 
 
 Mrs. Winter said to her husband she wished they 
 could stay longer in London, where every minute 
 had been a delight ; but he said it was impossible. 
 
M 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 OFF FOR THE CONTINENT. 
 
 ONDAY morning was bright and clear, and 
 
 Mr. Ford said, "This looks like a pleasant 
 crossing of the Channel." 
 
 The ride in the cars to Dover was very inter- 
 esting, and the view of Canterbury Cathedral was 
 quite fine. 
 
 Quite a large boat was waiting for the train, and 
 the water looked so smooth Alice said, — 
 
 " I guess the people who are sick crossing this 
 Channel do not know much of ocean discomfort." 
 
 Like a good many travellers who see the Channel 
 for the first time, she thought it must always be 
 quiet. 
 
 It proved to be a very smooth trip, and only a 
 little over an hour was spent in crossing. 
 
 The train left Calais fifteen minutes after the 
 
OFF FOR THE CONTINENT. 45 
 
 arrival of the boat, and the gentlemen bought nice 
 luncheons which were put up in baskets, — chicken, 
 bread and butter, and a bottle of wine. 
 
 They found a good compartment, and away they 
 went, eating their lunch and. enjoying the views from 
 the windows at the same time. 
 
 Belgium is called the garden of Europe, as vege- 
 tables are raised there for all the principal cities. 
 
 The country is flat and rather uninteresting to 
 look at, but when one realizes that the willows 
 which surround the farms are used by the women 
 and children to make baskets which are sent all 
 over the world it becomes very interesting. 
 
 The land is divided by water wide enough for flat- 
 bottomed boats to be rowed about, that the farmers 
 may till their land and bring home the products in 
 them. 
 
 It seemed very strange to see women at work in 
 the fields, but Mr. Ford said they would get used 
 to that before they reached Nuremberg. 
 
 It was dark when the train drew in at the 
 station at Brussels, and they took a stage marked 
 
4(i TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 " Grand Hotel," and were driven through the prin- 
 cipal street of the city. The shops were all lighted, 
 and the streets and sidewalks full of people. 
 
 Outside the restaurants little tables were set on 
 the sidewalks, and men and women were eating and 
 drinking. 
 
 It was a sight the Winters had never seen, and 
 it looked very strange to them. 
 
 " It is just like Paris on a small scale," said Mr. 
 Ford. 
 
 Excellent rooms were ready for them at the 
 hotel, as they had been telegraphed for by Mr. Ford, 
 who was in the habit of going there every year. 
 
 They had a delicious supper, and Mr. Winter 
 said. — 
 
 " That is the best meal I have seen since leav- 
 ing America." 
 
 The ladies had found the cars very hard to travel 
 in, and were glad to go to their rooms. 
 
 The next day Mrs. Winter was so thoroughly used 
 up that Mr. Winter decided to stay in Brussels a 
 few days for her to get rested. 
 
OFF FOPv THE CONTINENT. 
 
 -±7 
 
 The girls were delighted, as they had become very 
 fond of each other and were dreading the separation. 
 
 IF-S^ If fa 
 ti" T-iTr ; I-'« 
 
 as, --■ — itvi|; fU*fc! 
 
 BRUSSELS BOtTRSK. 
 
 Mr. Ford had to go out on business, and Mrs. Ford 
 said she would entertain Mrs. Winter if Mr. Winter 
 would take the girls sight-seeing. They started on 
 their walk in high spirits, and found such wide, clean 
 streets, interesting shops, and large, handsome buildings. 
 
 The new Exchange just completed, and the Palace 
 
48 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 of Justice, are two of the most magnificent civic 
 buildings in Europe. 
 
 They were much interested in a lace manufactory. 
 On the lower floor were women at work on the 
 finest patterns. They were all ages, from twenty to 
 seventy, and never looked up while their work was 
 being examined. 
 
 When the orirls were leaving;; the room, Alice 
 laughed at some remark of Nellie's, and then every 
 head was lifted and a sad smile came on each face 
 for a second. 
 
 Mr. Winter bought two lace handkerchiefs for the 
 girls to take as presents to their mothers. 
 
 Through the remainder of their stay in Brussels 
 they had lovely drives in the beautiful park, visited 
 the Palace of Justice, situated at the end of a long 
 street, on a hill where there was a glorious view 
 of the surrounding country for miles. 
 
 They also found that the picture gallery had a 
 very fine collection — indeed, said to be the best in 
 Belgium, and the pictures were beautifully arranged 
 in schools and periods. 
 
OFF FOE THE CONTINENT. 49 
 
 One day was given to the field of Waterloo, which 
 they all enjoyed very much. 
 
 Alice felt so unhappy to be parted from Nellie 
 that Mr. Winter finally persuaded Mr. and Mrs. 
 Ford to let Nellie o;o with them to Nuremberg:, as 
 it would give her a delightful trip, and she was 
 equally miserable to be left in Brussels without 
 Alice. 
 
 It was decided to meet in Paris, have an enjoy- 
 able week together, and sail for home on the 
 " Etruria " near the middle of July. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 TJP THE JUIINK. 
 
 /AN Monday, Mr. and Mrs. Winter and the girls 
 said " good-bye " to Mr. and Mrs. Ford and 
 started for Cologne in the gayest of spirits. 
 
 The trip was found very interesting, as they fol- 
 lowed the Mense River a great deal of the way. 
 Between Liege and Verviers the country was avoii- 
 derfully picturesque, with the pretty winding river, 
 which they continually crossed, and little villages 
 with the mountains in the distance. 
 
 The Meuse has been called the miniature Rhine. 
 
 Verviers is the last Belgian station, and Aix-la- 
 Chapelle is the first town of much interest in 
 Germany. 
 
 From the train there was an excellent view of the 
 city, which has seen many changes since it was the 
 favorite home of Charlemagne. 
 
UP THE RHINE. 
 
 51 
 
 For more than three centu- 
 ries the German emperors were 
 crowned there. 
 
 It was growing dark as 
 Cologne was reached, but the girls, knowing the 
 cathedral was near the station, hurried outside to 
 see it, and how wonderfully his;h and beautiful the 
 noble great spires looked in the twilight no one 
 can imagine who has never seen them. 
 
 Tuesday morning was spent in visiting the Church 
 of St. Ursula (which is reputed to hold the bones 
 
52 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 of eleven thousand virgins martyred by the Huns) 
 and the cathedral. 
 
 An excellent guide showed our party around, and 
 pointed out the beautiful windows which King Lud- 
 wig presented, costing eighteen thousand pounds, 
 English money. 
 
 The late King Frederick gave one elegant window, 
 at the end opposite the entrance. 
 
 On one side of the building were windows made 
 by Albert Diirer, considered Germany's greatest artist. 
 
 A large gold cross, presented by Marie de Medici, 
 and costing an enormous sum of money, Alice 
 thought was more beautiful than the windows. 
 
 On the way back to the hotel they met a com- 
 pany of soldiers who were singing as they inarched 
 along. It seemed very inspiring. 
 
 Wednesday morning this happy party took the 
 train for Mayence up the Rhine, as the boats, they 
 found, were not yet running. 
 
 Alice and Nellie had been reading up the legends 
 of the Rhine, and could hardly wait to see its 
 beauties and wonders. 
 
UP THE RHIXE. 53 
 
 The Rhine was not reached until after leaving 
 Bonn. The scenery was so pretty they did not miss 
 the river views. 
 
 In full view of the train was the famous avenue 
 of horse-chestnuts, three-quarters of a mile in length. 
 There is a large university at Bonn, and many 
 other schools. As many of the students in their 
 different costumes came to the station and walked 
 up and clown the platform to show themselves, the 
 girls were very much amused. 
 
 The city is also noted as being the birthplace of 
 Beethoven. 
 
 As soon as Bonn was out of sight, the river was 
 beside them. At first the entire party were disap- 
 pointed, the river seemed so quiet, narrow, and 
 sluggish, compared to the rivers at home. 
 
 However, that was soon forgotten as its beauties 
 grew upon them. 
 
 They soon saw the Seven Mountains coming into 
 view, and wished they could stay over one night to 
 see the sun rise from the top. 
 
 Mr. Winter felt he must hurry on, as they had 
 
54 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 spent so much time in Brussels, and see all they 
 could from the train. 
 
 At Oberwinter, where there is the finest view 
 down the Rhine, all the party looked back to see it. 
 
 Coblence was the next large town, and the situa- 
 tion is beautiful, as it is at the confluence of the 
 Rhine and the Moselle, with the strong fortifications 
 opposite, the Castle of Ehrenbreitstein, often called 
 the Gibraltar of the Rhine. 
 
 Just after leaving Coblence they saw two castles, 
 one the royal castle of Stolzenfels on its "proud 
 rock," more than four hundred feet above the river. 
 It was destroyed by the French in the seventeenth 
 century, but is now completely restored. 
 
 The other castle is directly opposite, above the 
 mouth of the Lahn river, is called the Castle of 
 Lalmeck, and has been lately restored. Alice knew 
 the legend of this castle, and told it to the rest 
 of the party. 
 
 " It was here, in the beginning of the fourteenth 
 century, that the order of Knights Templars, which 
 had been founded for religious purposes chiefly, was 
 
UP THE RHINE. 
 
 55 
 
 severely persecuted by Philippe le Beau of France 
 and Pope Clement V. 
 
 " After many vicissitudes there was a long and 
 
 
 lahneck castle. — Page 54. 
 
 desperate siege, in which all the knights fell ex- 
 cept one man. He held the commander at bay, who 
 was so overpowered by the knight's bravery he 
 
56 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 offered him life and liberty if he would stop fight- 
 ing and beg for mercy. 
 
 " The templar's only answer was to throw his 
 spear among the soldiers, and then was killed by 
 throwing; himself on their lances." 
 
 Boppart was the next town of any interest, it 
 being a walled town of Roman origin. 
 
 The wall had crumbled away in many places, 
 and houses had been built on the ruins. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river was Bornhofren, 
 with its twin castles of Sternberg and Liebenstein, 
 or " The Brothers/' 
 
 Mr. Winter told this legend, which runs that 
 once a rich knight, with his two sons and one daugh- 
 ter, lived there, and were very rich in gold and lands, 
 which the old knight had gained through wrong 
 and robbery. All his neighbors felt sure that such 
 ill-gotten wealth would bring him anything but 
 blessings. 
 
 The brothers inherited the avarice of the father ; 
 but the sister was lovely and gentle, like her 
 mother. When the father died the brothers gave 
 
UP TITE RHINE. 57 
 
 their sister much less than a third of the property. 
 She gave hers to the cause of religion and went 
 into a convent. 
 
 The brothers, disappointed, disputed over their 
 share, and at last fell in love with the same 
 maiden, who did not hesitate to flirt with both 
 and increase their jealousy. They finally fought and 
 killed each other. 
 
 Just as Mr. Winter finished his story, the guard 
 of the train put his head into the car window, to 
 say that the Lorely rock was nearly in sight. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE LEGEND OF THE LOKELY. 
 
 "T3 OTH girls jumped to their feet, for of course 
 they were interested to see that famous rock 
 where the water-nymph Lore was said to have lived. 
 She would appear on the top of the rock, clothed 
 in wonderful garments, and a veil of the color of 
 the sea-green water reaching to her feet, to lure 
 wicked people to destruction by her singing. 
 
 The people who came to the foot of the rock 
 were swallowed in the waves, while those who 
 tried to climb to the top were either thrown back 
 into the water or led through the dense woods, 
 only to be days finding their way out of them. 
 
 Lore was very kind to good people, having the 
 fairy power of distinguishing good from evil. 
 
 At last a young count, much to his father's un- 
 happiness, saw and fell in love with her. He con- 
 
THE LEGEND OF THE LORELY. 59 
 
 stantly went to gaze upon her, for she was very 
 beautiful. 
 
 He used to carry his zither and play and sing 
 to her, until she finally caused the waves to rise 
 so high that his boat was upset and broken. The 
 count sank into the waves, and his attendants re- 
 turned home to tell the father the sad news. 
 
 The old count swore revenge, and was going to 
 seize Lore and have her burnt. The next night he 
 took some friends and surrounded the rock. 
 
 When Lore appeared the old count said, " Where 
 is my son ? " 
 
 Lore pointed to the waves, at the same time 
 continuing to sing very sweetly. 
 
 As soon as Lore had finished her song, she 
 threw a stone into the river, which caused a wave 
 to rise. She mounted it and sank from view with 
 it, never to be seen again, though her singing 
 was often heard by men passing by. 
 
 The rock was formerly called Lorely, but is now 
 Lurlei, and has a lovely echo said to be the gift 
 of Lore. 
 
60 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 The girls were disappointed to see the water around 
 the rock so very quiet — no whirlpool at all. 
 
 When they saw that a cut had been made 
 through the rock for railroad trains, all the romance 
 was sfone for them. 
 
 o 
 
 Alice said, " papa, how could anybody spoil 
 that pretty story by running trains through the rock? 
 If that is the way my romances are going to end 
 I will not read any more." 
 
 However, she soon saw a house built in the river, 
 and wanted to know what it was and why it was there. 
 
 " I know," said Nellie. " I was reading about it 
 the other day." 
 
 It is called the Pfalz, and was built by Louis of 
 Bavaria in the thirteenth century, in order to exact 
 tribute from passing vessels. 
 
 Opposite is the town of Bacharach, the Ara Bacchi 
 of the Romans, and has long been famous for its wines. 
 In Longfellow's "Golden Legend" is the old rhyme, — 
 
 "At Bacharach on the Rhine, 
 At Hochheim on the Main, 
 And at Wurzburg on the Stein. 
 Grow the three best kinds of wine." 
 
THE LEGEND OF THE LORELY. 61 
 
 The Bacchus-Altar is to be found in this lovely 
 country. It stands just below the town, but the 
 water has to be very low to read the inscription 
 (which is nearly illegible), as it is situated between 
 the bank of the river and an islet. 
 
 The Altar is supposed to have been erected by 
 the Romans to their god of wine. 
 
 Many other castles, some restored, but the most 
 of them in ruins, were passed, before Assmanshausen, 
 famous for its reel wines, was reached. 
 
 Mr. Winter said, "Now this ends what is called 
 i the great gorge of the Rhine,' and the river will 
 broaden, and the open country, not very interesting, 
 is before you." 
 
 Just before reaching Bingen they saw the ruins 
 of Ehrenfels, and in the middle of the river the 
 Mausthurm, or " Mouse Tower." 
 
 " papa, I know the story of that tower," said 
 Alice. " Can I tell it ? " 
 
 " We are only too glad to hear it," said her 
 mamma. 
 
 " Hatto was Bishop of Fulda, and wishing to be 
 
62 
 
 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 9 ie 
 
 mocse tower. — Page 61. 
 
 made Archbishop of Mayence, used every means in 
 his power to accomplish his purpose. He succeeded, 
 and became very ambitious, proud, and cruel. He 
 taxed the poor to build for himself fine dwellings. 
 " At last he built the tower in the river where it 
 was very narrow, to compel all ships to pay him toll. 
 
THE LEGEND OF THE LORELY. 63 
 
 " A famine set in, and he, having plenty of money, 
 bought up everything and filled his granaries. He 
 sold his stores at such high prices that only the 
 rich could buy. 
 
 " He paid no heed to the supplications of the 
 famishing people, as he intended building a superb 
 palace with his money. 
 
 "One clay when Hatto was entertaining friends at 
 dinner, the starving people forced their way into the 
 dining-hall and begged for food. He told them to 
 go to a large barn where corn should be given 
 them. When they were all inside, Hatto ordered 
 the doors to be closed and fastened on the outside 
 and the barn to be set on fire. 
 
 " When their shrieks reached the dining-hall, Hatto 
 turned to his guests and said, 'Hear how the corn- 
 mice squeal : I do the same to rebels as I do to 
 them.' 
 
 " The wrath of Heaven was turned against him, for 
 out of the ashes at the barn thousands of mice took 
 their way to the palace, filling the rooms and attack- 
 ing Hatto. Thousands were killed, but they steadily 
 
64 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 increased, and he was finally obliged to flee in terror 
 of his life to a boat, still pursued by legions. 
 
 " Hatto was ferried over the Rhine to the tower, but 
 the mice perforated the walls, and fell on him by 
 the thousands, and ate him up. They then disap- 
 peared, and the tower has been called the ' Mouse 
 Tower ' ever since. 
 
 "It has never been used in any way, but stands as 
 a warning to despotic people." 
 
 Mr. Winter said, " Alice, you told that very well ; 
 but he was not such a very wicked man as the 
 legend makes him. He was imperious and caused 
 his people much suffering, but was the Emperor's 
 confidant and was called the 'Heart of the King." 
 
 Bingen is not a very interesting town, but has 
 many walks and drives that are full of interest in 
 every way. 
 
 Directly opposite, on the heights of Niederwald, is 
 the beautiful monument built to commemorate the 
 restitution of the German Empire in 1870-1871. 
 
 Alice and Nellie did wish they could stop long 
 enough to go up and see it, it looked so grand and 
 
THE LEGEND OF THE LORELY. 65 
 
 mighty outlined against the sky. Mr. Winter said. 
 " No, we must get to Mayence to-night." 
 
 There was not much of interest after leaving 
 Bingen, as the train left the river and the Rhine was 
 not seen again until just before entering Mayence, 
 where the Main flows most peacefully into it, making 
 a very beautiful picture. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MAYENCE TO NUREMBERG. 
 
 HV /TR. WINTER as usual had telegraphed to Ma- 
 yence for rooms, and found very comfortable, 
 large rooms ready for them in a new, pleasant hotel 
 near the station . 
 
 After resting a little while Mr. Winter said, " Who 
 wants to go with me and take a drive around the 
 city ?" 
 
 The entire party, even Mrs. Winter, who had 
 thought she was too tired to go out again, said they 
 would like to go. 
 
 What a delightful drive they had, at the close of 
 a warm, lovely clay, around that interesting old city, 
 with its wonderful fortifications! The view of the 
 rivers at the base of the hill they thought as pretty 
 as any they had seen all day. 
 
 Mr. Winter told them what a very old city it was, 
 

68 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 a Roman camp having been laid there thirty-eight 
 years before Christ. 
 
 The foundations may be said to date from fourteen 
 years B.C., when Drusus built his extensive fortifica- 
 tions. There is a Roman monument forty-five feet 
 high erected in honor of Drusus. There are also 
 remains of a Roman aqueduct to be found outside 
 the city. 
 
 The cathedral was founded in 798. It has been 
 burnt and restored six times, and is one of the 
 grandest in Germany. 
 
 Just outside the cathedral they saw a fine statue 
 of Gutenberg, who is regarded by the Germans as 
 the inventor of movable types for printing. 
 
 Our party drove back to the hotel, had a nice 
 supper, which was waiting for them, and went to 
 bed feeling they had enjoyed that clay more than 
 any since leaving home. 
 
 The next morning; all were rested and eager to 
 get to Nuremberg, the end of the trip. Mr. Winter, 
 by some mistake, did not get the fast train, and as 
 the one they took stopped very often, and the 
 
MAYENCE TO NUREMBERG. 69 
 
 scenery was not very interesting, our party arrived 
 in Nuremberg so tired they ate their supper and 
 went directly to bed. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 TN the morning Mr. Winter said, " I will give 
 
 one day to yon for sight-seeing, and then I must 
 
 attend to business. You will have to spend the rest 
 
 of your time going around with a guide or by 
 
 yourselves." 
 
 Alice was delighted with the old moat which was 
 opposite her window, and wanted to look in it at 
 once. 
 
 Nellie felt the castle was of more importance, and 
 could hardly wait to get there. The moat surrounds 
 the old city, and now is rented to gardeners, who 
 live in the old towers and cultivate the land in 
 the moat. 
 
 Our party started out to walk until they were 
 tired, and kept on the sidewalk side of the moat, 
 and thought it did look so pretty with everything 
 
NUREMBERG. 
 
 71 
 
 NUREMBERG WALLS. 
 
 so fresh and green. The cherry-trees were all white 
 with their lovely blossoms, which grew even with 
 the sidewalk. 
 
 Finally they went through an old gateway, which 
 was said to be the one where a rope was kept in 
 the olden time, to use on the bakers. If thev did 
 
72 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 not give full weight, the bakers were tied to the 
 end of a pole and dipped into the water several 
 times. If poison was found in the bread, they were 
 immediately drowned. 
 
 As the ladies were getting tired, Mr. Winter called 
 a carriage to drive them to the castle. As he 
 could speak German, the driver told him many in- 
 teresting things, and pointed out various objects of 
 interest. He showed them one house that had been 
 occupied by the same family for four hundred and 
 fifty years. 
 
 The churches of St. Sebalcl and St. Lawrence they 
 admired very much on the outside, leaving the 
 beauties of the interiors for another day. They 
 passed one fountain called the Goose Man, and 
 another, the Beautiful Fountain, built in 1385. Also, 
 a fine statue of Hans Sachs, erected in 1874, who 
 was known through Germany as the cobbler-poet. 
 It was from his life Wagner wrote the opera of the 
 " Meistersinger." 
 
 Soon the driver drew up his horses at a corner 
 where a small house stood under a hill, called the 
 
albrecht durer's house. — Page 74. 
 
74 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Sausage Shop, for its wonderfully cooked sausages. 
 It has been made famous by such men as Albert 
 Diirer, the great artist, Hans Sachs, and the old 
 bergomasters meeting there for their nightly mugs 
 of beer and a sausage. 
 
 The statue of Albert Diirer, erected in 1840, is 
 between the Sausage Shop and his old home. All the 
 houses, with their deep, slanting roofs, were objects 
 of interest, but most of all was that of Albert 
 Diirer, which is the only house in Nuremberg that 
 has not undergone some alteration. 
 
 The house is now filled with many curiosities, 
 some of them having belonged to Albert Diirer, and 
 is open every clay to visitors. The girls wanted to 
 stop and go in at once, but Mr. Winter said, " No, 
 we cannot stop now ; we must get to the castle, 
 and leave the house until we have more time." 
 
 The castle stands very high, and they were 
 obliged to drive up through very narrow and steep 
 streets ; but the horses were used to it, and Mrs. 
 Winter finally overcame her nervousness. 
 
 When the top of the hill was reached, there was 
 
NUREMBERG. 
 
 75 
 
 a plateau where a beautiful view of the city was 
 to be seen. They left the carriage here, and after 
 
 NUREMBERG CASTLE. 
 
 looking at the scenery they walked on up to the 
 castle. 
 
 On the way they saw a small shed, and, on look- 
 ing in, found it held the famous well. A young 
 
76 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 girl was there, who, in a parrot sort of way, told 
 them that the well was built in the eleventh cen- 
 tury, under Conrad II., by convicts, and that it took 
 thirty years to finish it. She told Mrs. Winter to 
 hold a mirror in her hand while she lowered a 
 candle, to show by the reflection in the mirror the 
 depth of the well. It took just six seconds for 
 water which she poured out of a glass to reach the 
 water in the well. She told them it was four hun- 
 dred and fifty feet deep, and they all believed her. 
 
 In the courtyard of the castle they saw an old 
 linden tree growing, which is said 'to have been 
 planted by Empress Runigunde eight hundred years 
 ago. 
 
 The castle they found quite interesting without 
 being very elegant. A lady in charge of it told 
 them many things of interest about the castle and 
 the city. 
 
 She told them that the first records of Nurem- 
 bero; date from 1050. In 1105 the town was be- 
 sieged, conquered, and destroyed by Henry V., again 
 besieged in 1127 by Emperor Lothar, from which 
 
NUREMBERG. 77 
 
 time imperial officials appeared who took the title of 
 Burggrafer. 
 
 Frederick I. (Barbarossa), under whom the burg 
 was enlarged, frequently lived here from 1150 to 
 1188. Rudolph von Hapsburg held his first diet here 
 in 1274, and often visited the town. 
 
 Under Emperor Karl IV. the first stone bridge 
 was built, and the streets were paved. 
 
 The first fundamental law of the empire was 
 formed by him, and is known as the " Golden 
 Bull." It was framed in Nuremberg in 1356, and 
 is still kept in Frankfort. 
 
 According to this law, every German emperor was 
 obliged to spend his first day of government in 
 Nuremberg. 
 
 His government was very favorable to Nuremberg 
 in every way. 
 
 The four large towers were built 1555 to 1568, 
 after a plan designed by Albert Diirer. The town 
 reached its highest artistic development in the fifteenth 
 and sixteenth centuries, under such men as Albert 
 Diirer, A. Krafft, Herman Fischer, and many others. 
 
78 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Goblets and many such objects of art were made 
 here at that time. In 1649 Nuremberg displayed its 
 last splendor. Commerce had been ruined by differ- 
 ent wars. In 1806 it was made a matter of re- 
 joicing when it came under the crown of Bavaria. 
 Kino- Ludwig first revived art, and trade made a 
 start. 
 
 In 1835 the first railroad was opened to Firth. 
 In 1855 King Max II. with his family lived here, 
 and the Imperial Burg was offered to him as a 
 present by the town. 
 
 The lady also told them that the five-cornered 
 tower, which is the oldest building in Nuremberg 
 and connected with the castle, contained a collection 
 of instruments of torture. Among them is the iron 
 virgin, a figure of a woman, which opens and is 
 full of spikes. The poor victim would be shut up 
 in its clutches. 
 
 None of our party felt like visiting that horrible 
 place, so they thanked the woman, and took some 
 last looks at the beautiful views to be seen from 
 the windows. To their surprise they found it was 
 
NUREMBERG. 79 
 
 noon-time, and as everything in Nuremberg is closed 
 for an hour and a half at mid-day, they were 
 driven back to the Wurtemberger Hof, their com- 
 fortable hotel, where everything possible was done 
 for their pleasure. 
 
 After a good dinner and a rest, Mr. Winter said 
 he thought, as his time was so limited, he would 
 like to visit the Town Hall and St. John's Ceme- 
 tery. A guide was found, and they started out with 
 more enthusiasm than ever. 
 
 The guide told them that the Town Hall was 
 built in the years from 1616 to 1619, in Italian 
 style. He pointed out to them a fine picture by 
 Paul Ritter, painted in 1882, to represent the act 
 of the arrival of the German Emperor's Insignia in 
 Nuremberg. The guide also showed them several 
 pictures of Diirer's representing the triumphal pro- 
 cession of Emperor Maximilian. His pictures are, 
 many of them, very indistinct. 
 
 They were taken into a room where the wedding 
 couples go to sign their marriage contracts. 
 
 Mr. Winter was more interested than the girls, 
 
80 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 and Mrs. Winter was so tired they were glad 
 enough to get in the carriage and be driven to the 
 famous old cemetery. 
 
 For some blocks before reaching the entrance are 
 paintings of Christ, representing the last days of his 
 life. 
 
 At the gateway are the three statues of Christ 
 and the two thieves nailed to the cross. 
 
 The guide showed them the graves of Durer and 
 Sachs, and one of a man who had been killed, 
 while asleep, by his wife hammering a nail in his 
 head. There was a bronze skull, with the nail in 
 it just where she killed him. 
 
 Another interesting bronze was the figure of a 
 woman with a lizard on a perch, which, when 
 touched, turns towards the woman's figure and shows 
 where she was bitten in the neck by the lizard 
 that killed her. 
 
 The girls thought that very quaint and more 
 interesting than any they saw, though there were 
 many very beautifully carved, and, being of bronze, 
 were of great value. 
 
NUREMBERG. 81 
 
 While our party was wandering through the ceme- 
 tery a funeral was taking place, and as the entire 
 service was intoned, it was very impressive. 
 
 Mr. Winter said as they entered the carriage, 
 " You have had enough sight-seeing for to-day, and 
 we will drive home and talk over all the wonderful 
 and interesting things we have seen and heard 
 to-day." 
 

 NURKMliKK 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 NUREMBERG. Continued. 
 
 rTIHE following morning Mr. Winter left the ladies, 
 who walked aimlessly, not caring much where 
 they went, it was all so full of interest to them. 
 
 Accidentally they visited quite an interesting place 
 called the Preller House. It was built three hundred 
 years ago by a Venetian nobleman, and is now 
 
NUREMBERG. Co 
 
 used as a furniture warehouse. There is a chapel 
 in it, and some of the old furniture still remains. 
 
 The ceilings are very fine, and in two of the 
 rooms were only discovered when the present occu- 
 pants were having gas-pipes put in the house. 
 
 Mr. Winter did not come home to dinner, and in 
 the afternoon Mrs. Winter and the girls went to 
 the Museum, where they found more to interest them 
 than anywhere they had been. It had a very large 
 and interesting collection of paintings and antiquities, 
 but the girls enjoyed seeing the old cloister — the 
 first they had ever seen. 
 
 That evening when Mr. Winter came home, he 
 told his wife that he should only be obliged to re- 
 main one more day, and they must entertain them- 
 selves again without him. 
 
 The next morning Mrs. Winter took a guide with 
 them, as she wished to visit some of the shops 
 where they could collect some curiosities. 
 
 They also went to the Market square, where the 
 poor people can buy everything they need at very 
 reasonable prices. 
 
84 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Mrs. Winter then said, " Now, girls, we will visit 
 those churches of which we have only seen the out- 
 side." 
 
 The guide took them first to St. Lawrence's Church. 
 
 This church, he told them, was mentioned as early 
 as 1006, and had the handsomest artistic decoration 
 of any of the celebrated churches throughout Ger- 
 many. The finest portion is the choir, with a vaulted 
 roof supported by slender pillars from which the 
 arches are formed like palm branches. 
 
 The guide wished them particularly to look at the 
 
 t 
 
 Gothic bronze chandelier, which weighs four hundred 
 and eighty-two pounds, and was cast by Peter Vis- 
 cher in 1489. 
 
 The girls were charmed by the seven windows of 
 the choir, which are considered the best examples of 
 Nuremberg glass-painting from 1450 to 1490. The 
 last window, called the Emperor's, was presented by 
 the citizens of Nuremberg in memory of the resti- 
 tution of the German Empire. It was put in the 
 22d of March, 1881. Mrs. Winter was much inter- 
 ested in some beautiful tapestries representing the 
 
NUREMBERG. 85 
 
 lives of St. Lawrence and St. Catharine, and are 
 over four hundred yoars old. 
 
 There were many more paintings of much interest, 
 some of them Albert Diirer's. As they were leaving, 
 the girls saw some richly carved chairs by the doors, 
 and asked the guide why they were there. 
 
 He told them that they formerly belonged to the 
 guilds, and the masters sat in them, in turn, to 
 receive alms. 
 
 From this church our party was driven to St. 
 Sebaldus's, which was finished in the tenth century. 
 One of the most interesting things they saw was 
 the font, which was remarkable not only as the first 
 product of Nuremberg's foundries, but as having been 
 used to christen King Wenceslas of Bohemia, in 1361. 
 
 There were more paintings of Diirer's to be seen 
 here, but the finest work was the sepulchre of St. 
 Sebaldus in the centre of the choir. It is the most 
 extensive work German art has ever produced, and 
 was cast by Peter Vischer and his five sons. 
 
 "It was commenced in 1508 and completed in 
 1519. It rests on twelve snails, having four dolphins 
 
86 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 at its corners, the whole forming a pagan temple 
 adorned with the Twelve Apostles. It is surmounted 
 by twelve smaller figures, and finally by an infant 
 Christ holding a globus in his hand, the latter being 
 a key of the whole monument, when it is to be rent 
 asunder. There is also a fine portrait of Peter Vis- 
 cher in this church." 
 
 Of course there were many more objects of in- 
 terest to be seen, but Mrs. Winter thought they had 
 seen enough ; so they were driven home to dinner. 
 
 In the afternoon they took a drive out of the 
 city to a beer-garden situated at the side of a 
 pretty lake. They had some tea, and walked on the 
 borders of the lake quite a distance. Mrs. Winter 
 said, " I wish we had such a quiet, pretty place near 
 home where we could spend an afternoon as de- 
 lightfully as we have here." 
 
 That evening Nellie said, " Dear Mrs. Winter, how 
 can I ever thank you and your husband for this 
 trip? Mamma could not have come, and never shall 
 I forget what I have enjoyed through your kind- 
 ness." 
 
NUREMBERG. 
 
 87 
 
 Mrs. Winter told her that the pleasure she had 
 cnven them was more than hers, as it had added 
 so much to Alice's happiness. 
 
 Alice said, " Now, mamma, will you not add to our 
 pleasures by repeating Longfellow's beautiful poem 
 on Nuremberg before we go to bed ? " 
 
 " Dear Mrs. Winter, please do," said Nellie. " I 
 have never heard of it, but I know it must be very 
 lovely." 
 
 "Very well," said Mrs. Winter. "I certainly never 
 knew a more appropriate time to recite it than now." 
 
 The girls gathered around her in the twilight as 
 she sweetly commenced : — 
 
 In the valley of the Pegnitz, where 
 
 across broad meadow-lands 
 Rise the blue Franconian mountains, 
 
 Nuremberg, the ancient, stands. 
 
 Quaint old town of toil and traffic, 
 quaint old town of art and song, 
 
 Memories haunt thy pointed gables, 
 like the rooks that round them 
 throng : 
 
 Memories of the Middle Ages, 
 when the emperors, rough and 
 bold, 
 
 Had their dwelling in the castle, time 
 defying, centuries old ; 
 
 And thy brave and thrifty burghers 
 boasted, in their uncouth rhyme, 
 
 That their great imperial city stretched 
 its hand through every clime. 
 
88 
 
 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 In the courtyard of the castle, bound 
 with many an iron band, 
 
 Stands the mighty linden planted by 
 Queen Cunigunde's hand ; 
 
 On the square the oriel window, 
 where in old heroic days 
 
 Sat the poet Melchior singing Kaiser 
 Maximilian's praise. 
 
 Everywhere I see around me rise 
 the wondrous world of Art — 
 
 Fountains wrought with richest sculp- 
 ture standing in the common 
 mart ; 
 
 And above cathedral doorways saints 
 and bishops carved in stone, 
 
 By a former age commissioned as 
 apostles to our own. 
 
 In the church of sainted Sebald sleeps 
 enshrined his holy dust, 
 
 And in bronze the Twelve Apostles 
 guard from age to age their 
 trust ; 
 
 In the church of sainted Lawrence 
 stands a pix of sculpture rare, 
 
 Like the foamy sheaf of fountains, 
 rising through the painted air. 
 
 Here, when Art was still religion, 
 with a simple, reverent heart, 
 
 Lived and labored Albrecht Diirer, 
 the Evangelist of Art; 
 
 Hence in silence and in sorrow, toil- 
 ing still with busy hand, 
 
 Like an emigrant he wandered, seek- 
 ing for the Better Land ; 
 
 Emigravit is the inscription on the 
 tombstone where he lies ; 
 
 Dead he is not, but departed, — for 
 the artist never dies. 
 
 Fairer seems the ancient city, and the 
 sunshine seems more fair, 
 
 That he once has trod its pavement, 
 that he once has breathed its air. 
 
 Through these streets, so broad and 
 stately, these obscure and dis- 
 mal lanes, 
 
 Walked of yore the Mastersingers, 
 chanting rude poetic strains. 
 
NUREMBERG. 
 
 89 
 
 From remote and sunless suburbs came 
 
 tbey to the friendly guild, 
 Building nests in Fame's great temple, 
 as in spouts the swallows build. 
 
 As the weaver plied the shuttle, wove 
 he too the mystic rhyme. 
 
 And the smith his iron measures ham- 
 mered to the anvil's chime ; 
 
 Thanking God, whose boundless wis- 
 dom makes the flowers of 
 poesy bloom 
 
 In the forge's dust and cinders, in 
 the tissues of the loom. 
 
 Here Hans Sachs, the cobbler-poet, 
 laureate of the gentle craft. 
 
 Wisest of the Twelve Wise Mas- 
 ters, in huge folios sang and 
 laughed ; 
 
 But his house is now an ale-house, 
 with a nicely sanded floor, 
 
 And a garland in the window, and 
 his face above the door; 
 
 Painted by some humble artist, as in 
 Adam Puschman's son"', 
 
 As the old man, gray and dove-like, 
 with his great beard white and 
 long, 
 
 And at night the swart mechanic comes 
 to drown Ins cash and care, 
 
 Quaffing ale from pewter tankards, 
 in the master's antique chair. 
 
 Vanished is the ancient splendor, and 
 before my dreamy eye 
 
 Wave these mingling shapes and fig- 
 ures, like a faded tapestry. 
 
 Not thy councils, not thy Kaisers, win 
 for thee the world's regard ; 
 
 But thy painter, Albrecht Diirer, and 
 Hans Sachs thy cobbler-bard. 
 
 Thus, O Nuremberg, a wanderer 
 from a region far away. 
 
 As he paced thy streets and court- 
 yards, sang in thought his 
 careless lay : 
 
 (fathering from the pavement's crev- 
 ice, as a floweret of the soil, 
 
 The nobility of labor — the long 
 pedigree of toil. 
 
90 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 "How very beautiful!" said Nellie. "Thank you 
 so much, Mrs. Winter, for reciting it to us. I 
 shall learn it myself when I get home, trusting I 
 may sometime give as much pleasure to another as 
 you have given me." 
 
 Mr. Winter said, " Why, Agnes, I never heard 
 you recite that poem so well." 
 
 " I never did," said his wife ; " for I never truly 
 felt it before." 
 
 " Thank you, mamma dear," said Alice. " Now 
 we will go to bed, feeling all the happier for the 
 lovely poem which has put our best thoughts into 
 words." 
 
STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL SIDE VIEW. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 STRASBOURG. 
 
 IV /TRS. WINTER was very anxious to travel to 
 Paris by the way of Strasbourg, as she had 
 always wished to see the cathedral with its won- 
 derful clock. 
 
 Mr. Winter made inquiries and found that was 
 decidedly the best way to go, which was a great 
 delight to them all. 
 
92 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Our party left Nuremberg early in the morning, 
 sorry to see the last of the most interesting city 
 they had seen thus far on their trip. Nellie, who 
 was looking forward to meeting her father and 
 mother in Paris, was quite happy to make a move 
 in that direction. 
 
 The first part of the trip was not very interest- 
 ing, but the latter was delightful, and as they had 
 a compartment to themselves the girls could enjoy 
 the view from both sides of the train. A change 
 of cars was made at a place where there was 
 hardly anything but the station and the railroad 
 interests. Here they ate a cold lunch from the 
 counter, though there were some hot dishes on a 
 table ; but they did not look very tempting. 
 
 The spire of the Strasbourg Cathedral could be 
 seen some time before reaching the station, and well 
 it might, being four hundred and sixty-six feet high, 
 and by some authorities said to be the highest in 
 the world. 
 
 The fortifications had been so fine at Mayence 
 our party w T as surprised to find others much finer 
 
.STRASBOURG. 93 
 
 here, many of them, being new, having been built 
 at the time of the French and German war in 
 1870. 
 
 The engineering of some of them is particularly 
 fine, as they are made to be opened, so that all the 
 surrounding country can be flooded if necessary. 
 
 The train wound round the city, giving them a 
 fine view of the fortifications and the soldiers being 
 drilled in many of the enclosures. 
 
 Strasbourg was one of the most important cities 
 during the last war, and a great portion of it was 
 destroyed. One side of the cathedral was badly 
 damaged, but is now thoroughly restored. 
 
 Mr. Winter took his family to a small hotel on 
 the square near the station, having been recom- 
 mended there by the manager of the hotel at Nu- 
 remberg. He found it very comfortable, and every 
 possible attention was shown them. 
 
 Arriving about five o'clock, there was plenty of 
 time to be driven around the city. Of course they 
 started for the cathedral, but on the way the driver 
 stopped the carriage to point out one of the highest 
 
94 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 chimneys on one of the tallest houses, where the 
 storks had built a nest. 
 
 He also told them how the storks arrive every 
 spring and build their nests, and then leave in the 
 fall with their young, to return the next spring 
 with their families no larger nor smaller than when 
 they go away. What becomes of the surplus is a 
 great question — whether they only increase sufficiently 
 to fill the vacancies caused by death or old age, or 
 that the young ones found colonies in other countries. 
 
 The storks are held in great reverence by man- 
 kind, and are never harmed. Indeed, it is considered 
 good fortune to the inmates of a house when a 
 nest is built on one of its chimneys. 
 
 The driver told a story of one man who gave 
 up the use of his room an entire winter, rather 
 than destroy a nest which two storks had built 
 over the top of his chimney, and thus prevented 
 his building; a fire. 
 
 As they approached the cathedral Alice said, 
 " Why, papa, where is the clock ? I cannot see it 
 at all." 
 
STRASBOURG. 
 
 95 
 
 Strasbourg storks. — Page 9i. 
 
 "I do not know," said Mr. Winter; "but it cer- 
 tainly is there somewhere." 
 
96 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 The driver took them to the front of the build- 
 ing, where they were met by a guide, who showed 
 them the beauties of the outside architecture and 
 the many statues of the apostles and saints. He 
 told them that the cathedral was commenced in 
 1015 and finished in 1601. 
 
 The guide showed them the plateau half-way up 
 the height of the steeple, and told them that it 
 is used by men who watch for fires all the time. 
 The citizens are so proud of the cathedral that they 
 have it dusted and washed inside very frequently. 
 
 "Where is the clock?" said Mrs. Winter, as soon 
 as the guide stopped talking long enough for her 
 to speak a word. 
 
 The man did not answer, but took them around 
 to a side door, where, after receiving his tip, he 
 left them and walked away. 
 
 At first they did not know what to do, but 
 Mrs. Winter said, " I think we had better go in- 
 side if we can." 
 
 In they went, and right by the door was the 
 clock. A fine-looking man dressed elegantly met 
 
STRASBOURG-CATHEDRAL CLOCK. Page 96. 
 
98 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 them. He proved to be a finely educated Swiss, 
 and he explained the various wonders of the clock. 
 
 He told them that the clock was built three 
 hundred years ago, and was to run a certain num- 
 ber of years. It shows all fete days for all those 
 years, tells the changes of the moon, eclipses — in 
 fact, everything that one could imagine. 
 
 The apostles do not all come out and walk 
 around except at noon, but as it was quarter before 
 six our party saw three men move. 
 
 The clock stops at six at night and then com- 
 mences again at six in the morning. 
 
 Mrs. Winter said the longer she looked at it, the 
 more wonderful it seemed to her that any man 
 could think of so many things. 
 
 The o;uide also told them that the man who first 
 conceived the idea of the clock became totally 
 blind when it was nearly completed. Of course he 
 could work no more, and it was never thought the 
 clock would be finished. 
 
 He lived thirty years, and after his death another 
 man was found who thought he could complete it. 
 
STRASBOURG. 99 
 
 He succeeded, and was paid by the government for 
 his time and work. 
 
 Mrs. Winter said, " I think it is the most won- 
 derful thing I ever saw, and I do not know which 
 man I admire the most — the one who conceived such 
 a work, or the man who could carry out such mar- 
 vellous thoughts of a man whom he had never met." 
 
 After leaving the cathedral our party was driven 
 around the city. The old part they found very quaint 
 and picturesque, with its high and sloping roofs. The 
 new part, built by the Germans, was very handsome, 
 some of the buildings, like the palace, conservatory 
 of music, and the post-office, being particularly fine. 
 
 The driver told them that one of the great inter- 
 ests there was the making of pate, de foie gras. 
 It is made from the livers of geese which are fed 
 in such a way that the liver grows abnormally large, 
 often weighing three pounds. 
 
 He also told them that many of the French 
 people are still very bitter against the Germans, even 
 pulling down their shades to the windows if a regi- 
 ment should march by the house. 
 
100 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 On their return to the hotel, the manager told 
 Mr. Winter he would have a very quick and com- 
 fortable journey to Paris if he took the Orient 
 express which runs between Constantinople and Paris. 
 It would leave Strasbourg three hours later than the 
 ordinary train, and would arrive in Paris some hours 
 before it. 
 
 Mr. Winter engaged a compartment at once, and 
 the next day had a very enjoyable trip, though it 
 was a very long one. The first part of the route, 
 over mountains and through ravines, was very de- 
 lightful ; but after getting into France it was flat 
 and uninteresting. 
 
 They passed through Epergny, which was interest- 
 ing for its vines, which covered the fields for many 
 miles. From these grapes champagne is made. 
 
 Paris was reached at six o'clock, and their hotel, 
 which had been recommended by friends, was found 
 to be very homelike. 
 
 The Fords were there waiting for them, and 
 were as glad to see Nellie as she was glad to be 
 with them again. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 rT^HAT evening after Nellie had told her mamma 
 some of her pleasant experiences, Mr. Winter 
 said, " Now we have just five days to spend in Paris, 
 and you must decide what you would most like to 
 do. Mr. Ford and I are entirely at your disposal." 
 
 Guidebooks were brought out and studied, and 
 after many discussions their plans were settled for 
 each day. 
 
 On Thursday morning they went to the Louvre, 
 feeling there would be so many pictures to see thej^ 
 had better visit it first. 
 
 How tired they did get sliding around on those 
 slippery floors, trying to see the nine miles of pict- 
 ures, many of which were quite uninteresting to 
 them all. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Winter took his wife and 
 
102 
 
 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 the girls in a carriage, and started for the Bois de 
 Boulogne. When the Place de la Concorde was 
 reached, with its monolithic obelisk of Lnxor, and 
 
 PLACE DE LA CONCORDE. 
 
 fountains and statues, with the gardens of the 
 Tuileries one side, and the Champs Elysees on the 
 other, the girls both exclaimed, " How beautiful ! " 
 but Nellie added, " When I think of all the horrors 
 that have taken place here it loses some of its love- 
 liness to me." 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 103 
 
 The drive through the Champs Elysees they 
 thought very beautiful, and when they reached the 
 Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, the most beautiful in 
 the world, their admiration knew no bounds. 
 
 Mr. Winter said, "Alice, what do you know about 
 this?" 
 
 Alice answered that " It was commenced by 
 Napoleon I. in 1806 and finished by Louis Philippe, 
 and cost over two millions of dollars. It is about 
 one hundred and fifty feet high, and the same in 
 breadth, and the central arch is ninety feet high." 
 
 " Very good, my dear ; you know that lesson very 
 well," said her papa. 
 
 From there to the Bois everything was full of 
 interest to them, and the drive around the Cascade 
 Alice thought particularly lovely. 
 
 Nellie said, " It is not kept up as nicely as I like 
 to see a park. They had better make Central Park a 
 visit, and see its nicely cut lawns and trimmed bushes." 
 
 On their way home they were driven through the 
 Place Vendome, with its magnificent column in the 
 centre. 
 
104 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 Nellie said, " I can tell you a little about that, 
 Mr. Winter, if you would like me to." 
 
 " Of course I should," said Mr. Winter. 
 
 " It is one hundred and forty feet high, and was 
 also built by Napoleon I. It was pulled down by 
 the Communists in 1871, but has since been restored." 
 
 The girls felt quite at home historically in Paris, 
 as all these interesting things were very fresh in 
 their minds. 
 
 In the evening, being very near the Palais Royale, 
 which was built for Cardinal Richelieu, they thought 
 it would be a pleasant way to pass their evening 
 to go and walk around and gaze into the shop 
 windows. The ladies were too tired, so the gentle- 
 men took the girls, and they had a delightful time. 
 Alice told her mamma on her return that she en- 
 joyed it, but did not care to go again ; she had seen 
 so much jewelry, all alike, that it was actually 
 tiresome. 
 
 Friday morning they drove to the Palais du Lux- 
 embourg, which has been prison, palace, senate-house, 
 and is now noted for its sculptures and paintings. 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 105 
 
 Our party enjoyed it much more than the Louvre, 
 as the paintings were so many of them modern and 
 very familiar to them. 
 
 At the back of the garden they saw the statue 
 of Marshal Ney, on the very spot where he was 
 shot. 
 
 Being on that side of the river, they visited the 
 Church of the Hotel des Invalides to see the tomb 
 of Napoleon I. It was directly under the dome, 
 and the softened lights all around made it very 
 beautiful . 
 
 After being driven home and having lunch, they 
 walked to the Madeleine, the most magnificent of 
 modern churches. 
 
 Mrs. Winter said, " This is very beautiful, but I 
 do like the solemnity of some of the older churches 
 I have seen very much better." 
 
 Leaving there, they walked through some of those 
 wide and interesting boulevards, watching the peo- 
 ple and carriages and gazing into the fascinating 
 shop-windows. 
 
 Mr. Ford said, "I thought I had seen in New 
 
10(3 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 York some florists' windows that could not be im- 
 proved, but I find I was mistaken. Never have I 
 seen such windows as these." 
 
 When too tired to walk any farther, carriages 
 were called, and they were driven to the Cathedral 
 of Notre Dame, built on an island in the Seine; 
 from there to the Pantheon, which Alice said " looked 
 like a barn, and was cold and inhospitable." 
 
 The most interesting thing about it was, that such 
 celebrated men as Victor Hugo, Marat, Voltaire, 
 Mirabeau, and Rousseau had been buried there. 
 The Hotel de Ville, recently restored, they passed 
 on their way home. 
 
 The evening was given to the Hippodrome, which 
 is quite the thing to do in Paris, and is wonder- 
 fully fine. 
 
 The drive there was like a picture of fairyland, 
 with the bright lights and trees and glimpses of 
 the river. 
 
 Saturday was devoted to shopping, a great deal 
 of it being done at the Magasin de Louvre and the 
 Bon Marche. The buildings are immense, and there 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 107 
 
 is everything to be found in them that one could 
 possibly desire. 
 
 That evening it was decided to go to the opera 
 at the Grand Opera House, the most beautiful one 
 in the world. The girls were so excited they could 
 not eat any dinner, for it was their first appearance. 
 
 Faust was the opera given, and a wonderful ballet 
 followed it. Between the opera and ballet they all 
 went outside and looked down at the men on horse- 
 back, stationed like sentinels outside the building. 
 
 Before them was the whole length of the Rue de 
 l'Opera a blaze of light. Alice said, "Nothing yet 
 has been as delightful as this evening." 
 
 Sunday was bright and clear, much to the delight 
 of our sight-seers, as they were going to Versailles. 
 They decided on Sunday, as the fountains were ad- 
 vertised to play, and all were very anxious to see 
 them. 
 
 They drove there and enjoyed every moment, espe- 
 cially when passing St. Cloud. They saw all it was 
 possible to see in one day, but felt as if it was 
 very little, after all. 
 
108 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 They went through the palace as fast as they 
 could, but any one knows who has been there that 
 with those glossy floors it took time. 
 
 The room devoted to war pictures they did not 
 care for, but were much interested in Marie Antoi- 
 nette's private rooms, which were so very small, and 
 also in the place where the Swiss Guards were 
 killed in defending her. 
 
 The state apartments were very elegant, especially 
 the Galerie cle Glace, where the German emperor 
 was proclaimed emperor in the late war. 
 
 Of course the girls were eager to get to the 
 Great and Little Trianon. They were disappointed 
 in the size and simplicity of their furnishings. The 
 rooms, however, were so full of historical interest 
 that their disappointment was forgotten, and they 
 thought they could have spent all their time in the 
 two houses. 
 
 In the coach-house were seen some very curious 
 old state coaches used by Charles X. and Napoleon 
 I. and many other sovereigns. 
 
 The man in charge was almost as much of a 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 100 
 
 petit trianon. — Page 108. 
 
 curiosity as the coaches, he told his stories in such 
 an interesting manner, laughing heartily at his own 
 jokes. 
 
 The drive home was delightful, but thev were all 
 too tired to say very much. After a good dinner, 
 the two girls talked as fast as magpies over the 
 delights of the day. Being like most girls, Marie 
 
110 TO NUEEMBEEG AND BACK. 
 
 Antoinette was one of the most interesting; charac- 
 ters in French history, and they talked of her and 
 her sad life, feeling almost as if they had lived a 
 portion of it with her, in the qniet retreat and 
 lovel}" gardens of Versailles. 
 
 Mr. Winter said to his wife, " I have really fin- 
 ished my business this side of the water, and unless 
 you would like to remain in London three or four 
 more days for the ' Etruria,' we can catch the ' Teu- 
 tonic ' next Wednesday.' 
 
 Mrs. Winter said she would like to go home on 
 the "Teutonic" very much, but did not like to 
 leave Mr. and Mrs. Ford, as they had made all 
 their arrangements to go home together. 
 
 o o o 
 
 Mr. Ford said, " We are delighted to shorten the 
 trip, as I ought to be at home now; but we did 
 not like to break up the party." 
 
 " Very well," said Mr. Winter. iw We will go out 
 and telegraph to Liverpool for state-rooms." 
 
 Alice said to her mamma, " I wonder if we can 
 like the ' Teutonic ' as well as we did the ' Etruria ' 
 that brought us over the seas so safely." 
 
HOMEWAED BOUND. Ill 
 
 Monday was devoted to visiting the Salon, where 
 they saw so many pictures that they came away 
 with a very vague idea of what they had seen, 
 but all agreed they preferred the English pictures 
 of the present day to those of the French. 
 
 Tuesday night saw our party again in London, 
 but at the Savoy Hotel, where they had delightful 
 rooms overlooking the river. 
 
 Wednesday at eleven o'clock our happy party took 
 the special train which connects with the fast 
 steamers, and at four o'clock were on the " Teu- 
 tonic " and starting for Lome. 
 
 A lovely night down to Queenstown, where the 
 steamer stops for the mails. While waiting the next 
 morning, Mr. Winter and Mr. Ford took Alice and 
 Nellie on shore in the tug, and gave them a nice 
 drive in a jaunting car. 
 
 The girls did not enjoy the drive very much, but 
 were glad of the experience. 
 
 The ladies were very much interested in the boats 
 which came out to the " Teutonic " with women who 
 had laces and small articles to sell. The things 
 
112 
 
 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 were sent up to the deck in baskets, on ropes, 
 which were tossed up for the passengers to catch. 
 
 THAMES EMBANKMENT. Page 111. 
 
 Some of the Irish girls were very bright, and made 
 very good sales. 
 
 At last the tug with the mails arrived, and was 
 
HOMEWARD BOUND. 113 
 
 attached to the steamer at once. Both went down 
 the harbor until the passengers, among them our 
 party, and the mails had been transferred. The girls 
 were uneasy until they were with their mothers. 
 
 At two o'clock the tug left them, and then, indeed, 
 it seemed as if they had started for home. 
 
 One bad stormy day, some foggy and some de- 
 lightful ones, fell to their share. No one of their 
 party was sick, and they thought the steamer de- 
 lightful. Much as they had liked the " Etruria," it 
 was decided by all that the " Teutonic " would be 
 their steamer in the future. 
 
 New York was reached on Wednesday afternoon, and 
 at night the entire party was at the Fifth Avenue 
 Hotel, feeling very glad to get safely across the 
 ocean again. They had become such good friends it 
 was very hard to separate. 
 
 However, a promise was made by the Fords to 
 visit Mr. and Mr. Winter before the summer was 
 over. 
 
 Thursday night the Winters could have been found 
 in their own home, all very happy, and feeling that 
 
114 TO NUREMBERG AND BACK. 
 
 the following years would be fuller of interest in 
 every way for the experiences, most of them pleas- 
 ant, of their charming trip to Nuremberg and 
 back. 
 
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