Book JIB_\^ GopghtK" COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. THE PHAT BOY'S DELINEATIONS OF THE St. Lawrence River AND ITS ENVIRONS. A Guide for the Tourist and Traveler. Making a Round Trip from New York, via N. Y. W. S. M B. R. K.. the Ontario and Western R. R., and N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R , to Utica, Syraccsk. Rochester, Bi'ffalo and Niagara Falls, AND Toronto, throogh Lake Ontario. Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence River, to Montreal, Qvebec, Sagi- ENAY River, Lake Cha.mplain, Lake George, Sarato- ^.-^I^v OF Cn ^ OA. Albany, New /'\ ' • • ■ , / -r I York and / QC i 1 -i , ^ Boston. y>>^ Z 1 ^f 4l "^ ^ Fourth Edition.— Copyrighted 1885. E. K. BABKAGK, Publisher, \ ROCHESTER, N. Y\, post-express printing company, Vi TO IH mill street, 1885. THE NEW "GENESEE" BUKKALO, N. Y. :,s"' EDWARD P. HARRIS, Prop, American and European Plan. ^ INTRODUCTION. IN presenting this work, *' The Phat Boy's Historic De- lineations," of the St. Lawrence River from Kingston to Montreal, the only correct description of the St. Law- rence River, before the j^ublic, being a round trip from New York to Buffalo, Niagara F'alls, Toronto, Kingston, Alexan- dria Bay, Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Law- rence to Montreal, Quebec, Lake Champlain, Lake George, Saratoga, Albany, New York and Boston. (Just completed the " Phat Boy's " Maj) of the St. Lawrence, being a birds eye view of the route from Kingston to Montreal, showing every Island, Town, Village, City, River, Creek or Stream, Kapid, Canal or Light House, and route of all the steam- ers.) It may not be amiss to state the fact which prompt- ed its issue. Financial or personal ends are always the paramount object to be attained by an individual who puts forth anything in this world. I therefore plead guilty to the above charge, and for so doing propose to give to the tourist or traveler down the majestic St. Lawrence a faith- ful description of every point of interest that meets the eye of the beholder. Having held the position for ten years of " The Guide of the St. Lawrence," and in that capacity made the trip a •^pleasant one for everybody without regard to age, weight, sex, color, or previous condition of servitude, I feel capable of compihng a book which does not contain any pictorial illustrations of the scenic beauty connected with the trip. f - (GJ2-J feeling confident that a plain unvarnished description of all the various points of interest would be sufficient. The tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a volume ten times this size could not contain, for no matter how often you open the eyes during the day, they will fall upon some delightful scene, where the God of nature has smiled upon, within an hour. Neither have I given a highly colored description of the Rapids ; they have been viewed and described by thousands, and the effect produced is as varied in character as the individual writers differed in temperament and looks. Trusting that this volume may meet with as cheerful a greeting by the public as it has always accorded my efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its mission will have been accomplished. Respectfully Yours, E. F. BABBAGE " Phat Boy," Guide to the St. Laivi-efice. REFERENCES FOR THIS WORK. We have a number of references as to the worth of this Httle volume. Space and time forbid a mention of them all ; some of the most prominent will suffice. 1. At Alexandria Bay last season, a lady had the misfor- tune to sprain her ankle, (no matter how ; but we will say, least some one may be led astray as to the real cause, that it was not done falling or stumbling over the editor. ) We very kindly gave her a copy of the " Phat Boy's " Delinea- tions of the St. Lawrence River, and she was able to walk in ten hours after the accident, apparently as well as ever. 2. This volume will not bring home a stray cow ; but it will do the next best thing : milk them in the pasture, thus saving the wear and tear incident to their coming home. 3. The delight and pleasure that the perusal of your little volume gave me, I am unable to Express. — Susan B. N. B. — Then send it by Freight. — •' Phat Boy." 4. A lady who had one copy (by the way, she was mar- ried,) wrote for the second ; it was sent to her ; but mean- while she had changed her residence to the Lunatic Asylum. Now here is a chance for married men who wish to become single for 25 cents- Send for a copy. 5. A very restless, nervous man bought a copy ; read to page 20, went to sleep quietly for ten hours. First good rest in four years. 6. It is good for maiden ladies ; has been known to cure headache, toothache, sprains, bruises, ingrowing nails, and it matters not. 7. Eli Perkins will read a copy of this work, August 25th, 1885, and from that day until death will speak the truth. HISTORIC DELINEATIONS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and more attention among tourists. There is so much that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilerating in the scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the gulf, that we need not for a mo- ment wonder why it is that there is a great annual increase in the number of those intelligent people, who, from East, West and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that luxuriating season known to every American as "vacation." A vacation on the St. Lawrence, means a sojourn at some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more weeks, as the time, finances and incHnation of the individual may dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid transit, from New York to Utica, Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexan- dria Bay or Montreal then return home. There are several different popular starting places to reach the river ; it is presumed you will take the most convenient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with the selection. Route A. THE WEST SHORE ROUTE. THE TOURIST ROUTE OF THE NORTH. While many sui)pose that both sides of the Hudson River present equal attraction— and it would be hard to decide which is the most beautiful — it is a curious fact that all, or nearly all, the noted summer resorts for which the country adjacent is famous are located on its western bank. Thus, starting from New York and following up the West Shore Route, we find the Palisades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, Stony Point, Cranston's, West Point, Cornwall, Lakes Mo- honk and Minnewaska, the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount McGregor, and the Adirondacks (in which the great river rises), all on the same side, and all easily accessible by the New York, West Shore and Buffalo Raihvay. In addition to these, the magnificent cars of this route convey the trav- eler to Lake George, Lake Champlain and Montreal, on the north ; Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Richfield Springs, Niagara Falls, Buffalo and Chatauqua Lake, and make close connections for all the White Mountain and Eastern resorts, for the Thousand Islands, Watkin's Glen and the Lake region of Central New York. It is thus emphatically 8 the tourists route of the north, and, reaHzing this fact, its projectors and managers have done everything in their power to render it attractive to this constantly increasing and most fastidious class of travelers. While traversing the most picturesque portions of a State noted for its scenery, this railway is the most complete in all details of construction and equipment of any in this country. It is a double track, steel rail Hne, with an un- usually wide space between tracks, running north from Jer- sey City along the west shore of the Hudson to Albany, and thence through the fertile Valley of the Mohawk and across Central New York, touching at Utica, Syracuse and Rochester, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. Its grades are easy, its curves are light, its steel rails are among the heav- iest known in railway construction, and its road-bed will be crowned with a deep ballasting of stone. Owing to this excellent road-bed and the great strength of its iron bridges this company has been able to build ex- ceptionally heavy locomotives for its various classes of traf- fic. The passenger engines burn anthracite coal, and are designed to haul trains of from ten to fifteen coaches at a high rate of speed. They are provided with special ar- rangements in the fire and smoke boxes and smoke stacks to consume all gases, and prevent the escape of smoke or cinders. LOCOMOTIVES, CARS AND STATION HOUSES. The entire passenger equipment of the road was especi- ally designed and built by the Pullman Palace Car Com- pany, and is the most complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, comfort and safety in the world. From the palatial buffet cars, with interiors finished in variegated hard-woods and furnished with plate.glass mirrors, luxurious arm-chairs, soft carpets and rich drapery, to the smoking cars, finished with figured oak and provided with revolving chairs, upholstered in leather, all are the most perfect speci- mens of the car-builder's art extant. The exterior of the cars making up West Shore passenger trains is painted in a rich dark olive and gold, which produces a most pleasing effect. The station houses erected along the entire route from New York to Buffalo are architectural gems, harmonious in color and design with the beautiful and picturesque scenery through which the road passes. Those at the New York terminus, at Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse and Buffalo will, when finished, surpass in completeness and artistic de- sign any series of railway stations ever erected by a single company. THE NEW YORK STATION. The New York terminus of this great railway was pro- jected upon a scale of vastness and perfection of detail com- mensurate with the rest of the magnificent scheme. It is at Weehawken, opposite the heart of the great city, and close beneath the height on which x\lexander Hamilton fell be- fore the pistol of Aaron. Burr. It extends for more than a mile along the river front, and, with its numerous docks and piers, presents nearly six miles of working space m which vessels of every description may receive freight. From here commodious and elegantly appointed ferry-boats run to the handsome up-town passenger station at the foot of Forty- second Street. The express trains of the West Shore Route lO leave from and arrive at the down town station, foot of Jay Street, accessible from Elevated stations at Franklin, Cham- ' bers and Barclay Streets ; also leave from and arrive at the up town station at the foot of West 42nd Street, New York, and from the foot of Fulton Street, Brooklyn. The pas- senger from New York has thus an option of starting from any one of half a dozen points, a great convenience when one considers the peculiar position and length of the city. Passengers are cautioned to consult official time-tables in the Company's publications, or in the leading newspapers, with the view of ascertaining just what trains leave from and arrive at the various stations named. In the subsequent pages one may obtain partial glimpses of some of the innumerable delightful places to which this highway for business and pleasure travel will guide him, and a few hints of the many pleasures in store for his summer holiday. BETWEEN NEW YORK AND THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. "THE ONTARIO ROUTE." New York, Ontario & Western Railway Co. Running from New York to the City of Oswego on Lake Ontario, and in connection with the R. W. & O. R. R- from Cape Vincent, forming the most attractive route to the St. Lawrence River. It is the only line running Pull- man sleepers through without change between New York and the Thousands Islands. On arrival of trains at Cape Vincent the new steamer St. Lawrence, the handsomest and swiftest on the River, leaves tor all landings among the Islands. II The train carrying through sleepers leaves New York at 5:30 p. m., arriving at Cape Vincent at 9:30 a. m.. and Al- exandria Bay at 1 1:30 a. m.; giving tourists a delightful ride of twenty-five miles down the Islands to the Bay. Ample time is given at Richland for breakfast. Returning the St. Lawrence leaves Alexandria Bay at 4:00 p. m., arriving at Cape Vincent at 6:00 p. m., and train leaves at 6:10 p. m., arriving in New York at 9:30 a. m. The depots and ferries of the New York, Ontario & Wes- tern Railway, are located in New York at the foot of West 42nd Street and Harrison Street, from which points com- modious and elegantly appointed ferry boats run to the passenger station at Weehawken, and in Brooklyn at the foot of Fulton, Brooklyn Annex. The route of the Ontario and Western, after leaving Weehawken, is west of the Palisades, through the counties of Bergen in New Jersey, and Rockland in New York, fol- lowing the fertile and romantic valley of the Hackensack. At Valley Cottage the road tunnels through the mountains and for sixteen miles skirts the banks of the Hudson, through the Highlands, traversing all the historic and picturesque points along that world-famed stream. Then over the foot- hills of the Catskills, through the mountains of Central New- York, and along the valleys of the Delaware, Neversink, Beaverkill and Chenango Rivers with their lovely pictur- esque views of mountam, lake and river, to Lake Ontario, making one of the most beautiful routes across the Empire- State. The night express trains run every day including Sunday. The Pullman buffet sleepers are of the latest models, and complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, com- fort and safety. The City of Kingston, Ontario, is easily reached from Cape Vincent via Steamer Maud, which leaves after the ar- rival of train from New York, and returning leaves in the afternoon, connecting with train for the south. The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., leaving the Grand Central Depot, 42nd Street, New York, passes along the beautiful Hudson River to Albany, then the great four tracked railroad of the world conveys you to Utica (where the direct connections are made with the Utica & Black River R. R. ; then the traveler can if he desires pass over this popular route, reaching in a few hours the majes- tic St. Lawrence at Clayton, connecting with the steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company direct for Montreal), Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo or NIAGARA FALLS. The ticket office of the Grand Trunk R. R. and Riche- lieu and Ontario Navigation Company Royal Mail Line is located at No. 4 International Hotel, and is presided over by Mrs, L. Barber, who will cheerfully give you any infor- mation desired. Trains leave the Falls every morning, Sun- day excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. to Toronto, and arrive in time to connect with Mail Line for Montreal. Trains leave Niagara Falls every morning, except Sunday, at 9:05 a. m., via. Central Hudson Branch for Lewiston, where con- nections are made with the fast sailing side wheel steamboat CHICORA, crossing the beautiful Lake Ontario and arriving in Toron- ^3 to in time to connect with Richelieu and Ontario Naviga- tion Company Royal Mail Line for Kingston, Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence River to Montreal. ''THANK GOD" NIAGARA FALLS IS FREE.— BORN AGAIN. From the first issue of this little volume up to the pres- ent I have labored to inform the public regarding the many schemes and extortions at the Falls; been the only cham- pion of fifty millions of people, and with my coat off and sleeves rolled up, worked for the passage of the bill to make Niagara Falls free. Now, that success has perched upon our banners, we propose to put the people of Niagara Falls upon the stool of repentance on their good behavior as it were for the season of 1885. After that time, should they merit kind treatment or praise I shall be most happy to say so. If, on the other hand, they deserve censure for any device or schemes to entrap the stranger or visitor, I shall ventilate it, and, as in the past, handle them without gloves. Hoping the dear public will sanction the charity I have displayed and post me regarding their treatment at the Falls the coming season, I am Respectfully Yours, E. F. Babbage, ''Phat Boy," 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y. As many of the tourists leave Niagara Falls in the morn- ing at 9:05 o'clock by rail to Lewiston, and connect with the Steamer Chicora, for Toronto, I will mention the places and points. 14 LEWISTON. This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. It lies three miles below Devil's Hole, and seven miles below the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, but its commercial prospects have been very much injured by the construction of the Erie and Welland Canals. QUEENSTON is a small village situated nearly opposite to Lewiston, and contains about 350 inhabitants. It is associated in history with the gallant defence made by the British on the adjacent heights in the war of 181 2. The village is pleasantly situ- ated, but has suffered from the same causes that have re- tarded the growth of Lewiston, The river here becomes more tranquil, the shores less broken and wild, and the change in the scenery affords a pleasing transition from the subHme to the beautiful. BROCK'S MONUMENT. The monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, from whence the village derives its name. The present structure occupies the site of the former one, which was blown up by some miscreant on the 17th of April, 1840. The whole edifice is 185 feet high; on the sub-base, which is 40 feet square and 30 feet high, are placed four lions, fac- ing North, South, East and West ; the base of the pedestal is 21^ feet square and 10 feet high; the pedestal itself is 16 feet square and to feet high, surmounted by a heavy corn- ice, ornamented with lions' heads and wreaths in alto relievo^ In ascending from the top of the pedestal to the top of the 15 base of the shaft, the form changes from square to round. The shaft is a fluted cokmin of free-stone, 75 feet high and 10 feet in diameter, on which stands a Corinthian capital 10 feet high, whereon is wrought, in reHef, a statue of the Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome 9 feet high, reached by 250 spiral steps from the base, on the inside. On the toj) of the dome is placed a colossal statue of Gen- eral Brock. FORT NIAGARA. This fort stands at the mouth of the Niagara river, on the American side. There are many interesting associa- tions connected with this spot, as during the early part of the past century, it was the scene of many severe conflicts between the whites and Indians, and subsequently between the English and French. The names of the heroic La Salle, the courtly De Nouville and the gallant Prideaux will long retain a name in the history of this country. The vil- lage adjacent to the fort is called Youngtown, in honor of its founder, the late John Young, Es(j. NIAGARA, is one of the oldest towns in Ontario and was formerly the capital of the Province. It is situated where the old town of Newark stood, and is opposite to Youngtown. It faces the river on one side of Lake Ontario. The trade of this place has been diverted to St. Catherines since the comple- tion of the Welland canal, and the other towns upon the Niagara river have suffered in common from the same cause- The Queens Royal Hotel is located here, and when I say it is run by Messrs. McGaw & Winnett of the Queens Ho- i6 THE QUEENS HOTEL, TORONTO THE LARGEST AND BEST HOTEL IN THE CITY, Re-modeled, Re-decorated and Enlarged for Season of 1885. The Coolest Summer House in Canada. Beautiful Croquet and Chevalier L.awns. ELECTRIC BELLS, ELEVATORS, BATHS, ETC. N. B. — This is the safest Hotel, as regards fires, in Canada^ being for the most part but three stories high and surrounded by large open spaces Lipon all sides. The residence, when in the City, of the Governor General. THE TABLE IS UNSURPASSED IN CANADA. Porters Meet all Boats and Trains. McGAW & WIN NEXT, Props. ALSO PROPRIETORS QUEENS ROYAL, TECUMSEH HOUSE, Niagara, Ont. London, Ont. tel at Toronto, it is enough in its praise. The best Black Bass fishing on the Niagara River is at tliis point, 50 Bass have been caught in an hour weighing from i to 5 pounds eacli. THE CITY OF TORONTO. Toronto, tlie ca|)ital city of the Province of Ontario, is situated on a circular bay of the same name, and was founded by Governor Simcoe, in 1794. Thej city was for- merly called York. Toronto bay is a beautiful inlet, sepa- rated from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance, by a long, narrow sandy beach. The South-West- ern e.xtremity is called Gibralter Point. It is 165 miles from Kingston, 45 miles from Hamilton, and 50 miles from the falls of Niagara. The population in 17 17 was 1,200; but at the present time it amounts to about 75,000. The city is laid out at right angles. Its chief public buildings are the cathedrals and churches, the Parliament House, University of Toronto, Trinity College, Normal School, St. Michael's College, Osgoode Hall, St. Lawrence Hall, Me- chanics Institute, Provincial Lunatic Asylum, post-office, exchange and city schools. Its system of free public schools is one of the most perfect and best conducted in America. Among the many pleasant drives around this city the traveler should visit College Avenue and the Queen's Park. In this park is erected a statue of the Queen and a monument to commemorate the college youths who fell at Ridgeway defending the country from the attacks of the Fenians. The University of Toronto, a most magnificent building, is also situated in this park. The Parliament of Ontario and the principal law courts are held in this city. It is connected by the Grand Trunk THE ROSSIN HOUSE TOnONTO, OITTARIO, CAMDA. THE LEAD ING HOTEL IN TORONTO. Strictly First-CIass. American Plan. Prices Graduated. Fire Escape in all Bedrooms. The entire Plumbing of tliis Hotel has been renewed this Spring, anrl the latest improvements known to the Sanitary Bureaus of Boston and New York adopted. MARK H. IRISH, HENRY J. NOLAN, PROPRIETOR. Chief Clerk. 19 Railway and steamboats for all points. The two largest hotels in Toronto are the Rossin House and the Queens Hotel. These hotels have every modern improvement and the prices are graduated according to location of room. If carriages are needed while in the city Telephone No. 109, R. Bond's Livery who has everything first-class in the car- riage line, "A i." PORT HOPE is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream, which here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in which the town is located. The harbor at the mouth of this stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a pretty town ; on the western side the hills rise gradually one above the other. The highest summit, called '' Fort Orton," af- fords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great distance. The village is incorporated ; population about 5,114. A direct route to Rochester by the Steamer Norse- man leaves this port every morning, except on Sunday, call- ing at Port Hope and connecting with Grand Trunk train from Toronto every week day morning and arriving in Rochester the same afternoon. The Grand Excursions of the Norseman from Rochester to Alexandria Bay leaving Rochester every Saturday evening and passing through the 1,000 Island scenery of the St. Lawrence River arriving at Alexandria Bay in time for dinner, giving the passengers about five hours at the Bay and returning to Rochester early on Monday. I have advised many of my friends to make this trip, all of which have expressed themselves as dehghted. 20 COBOURG, seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabitants. It has seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two founderies, and the largest cloth factory in the Province. It is also the seat of Victoria College and Theological Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg is ^' Duck Island," on which a light-house is maintained by the government. FOR THE BENEFIT OF ALL, we submit the following time-table — not forgetting to men- tion that steamboats are not infaUible, but are governed by man, accompanied by steam, wind and water. If the boat is one hour late in starting from any given point, it is likely she will remain so, as I know of but one boat in the line that can beat or surpass schedule time. LEAVING EVERY DAY — SUNDAYS EXCEPTED. Toronto (Sunday Ex- Morrisburg 1 2.05 p. m. cepted) 2:00 P. m. Chrysler's Farm 12:17 Kingston (Monday Aultsville 12:30 Excepted) 5:00 a. m. Farreu's Point 12:40 Clayton 6:00 " Dickenson's Landing. ..12:55 Alexandria Bay 7:00 *' Long Saul t 1:00 Brockville 9:30 " Last of U. S. shore 1:15 Prescott 10:30 " Cornwall 1:30 Galop Rapids 11:05 *•' Coteau Landing 4:00 Iroquois 11:35 " Cedar Rapid 4:30 Narrowest Point 11:45 " Indian Pilot 6:00 Rapid Piatt 11:55 " Montreal 7:00 We assume that we are now fairly entering on the ma- jestic stream on the Canadian side. 21 THE CITY OF KINGSTON, which has a pojjulation of 15,000, was founded in 1672, by Governor DeCourcelles, receiving the name of Fort Cata- racjui. Later, a massive stone fort was built by Count De Frontenac, and received his name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, wlio gave it its present name. As a place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The batteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. These, together with neighboring martcllo towers, form a formida- ble defense against any agressive movement which might be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. On the right is Garden Island ; on the left, Cedar Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, in view, the round stone towers referred to above. Xear the middle of the river is Wolf or Long Island, 2 1 miles long, and 7 miles wide near the Western end. There is nothing either of romance or historical episode to weave into our story, concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of civihzed life characterize the people. Between one channel and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Is- land, of no mean proportions. Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in the chan- nel where we must diverge either for Ganoque, or Clayton. We are bound for the former. If the boat takes the Amer- ican channel, (for description turn to Route B page 29). As soon as the hght-house on Burnt Island comes in view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon the real beauty of the " sacred river of America." In steering for Gananoque we pass many pretty httle isles of six or eight acres. On the right is a range light, the boat, of course, passing be- tween the two. It is said that from the deck of the steamer, one hundred islands can be counted — in fact, the panorama is probably matchless on the globe. While the islands are so numerous both on the right and left, the boat glides by in its efforts to reach Gananoque without allowing the tour- ist to be distracted in the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. Some of these isles are scarcely more than barren rocks, while others are paradises of verdure. ''DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" Well not often, you see this ponderous body of mine does not fit the average fishing boat. My fears are not all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satisfaction that if the boat should upset that I would not sink, but the fear that is in- dellibly printed upon my mind, that as I would float, and being- so large, some steamboat captain or pilot would take me for an island, lay alongside and let the passengers off for a little pic-nic or an hours pleasure. Think of it. ''NOT A GEORGE WASH." He had told several very improbable stories bordering upon the Eli Perkins order and then remarked to a friend 23 that he could not tell a lie. But the friend replied, that he could the moment he heard it. and to the best of his judg- ment he had told several. Names of Islands that are numbered on the Phat Boy's Map of the St. Lawrence, because the space would not ])ermit printing the names in full : 53. Robinson. 80. Pike. • 54. Calumet, 81. Idlewild, 56. Seven, 82. Little Lehigh, 57. Pratt, S^. Sport, 58. Wau Winnet, 59. Cuba, - Summer Land 85.) 60. Devil's Oven. 86. Arcada, 61. Cherry, 88. Schooner, 61^ Southgate, R. H., 94. Snake. 62. Pullman, 95. Float. 63. Nobby, 96. Milk, 64. Welcome, 97. Sugar, 65. Friendly, 100. Wallace, 66. Florence, 102. Deer, 67. Linlith Govv, late Maud. , 107. Hoopers, 68. Imperial, 108. Shanter. 70. Resort, 109. Rattle Snake, 71. Deshler, III. Round, 72. Kipp, 112. Poverty, 73. Terry, 114. Hemlock, 75. Judge Donahue, 115. Snipe, 79. Proctor, 116. Three Brothers, 24 iiy. Half Way, 149. Bush, 137- Brush, 150- Coles and Smith, 139- Flat, 151- H. A. Fields, 141. Round Top, 160. Melville, 142. Indian Chief, 163. Dixon, 143- Pine Tree, 164. McGraw, 144. Middle, 165. Sears, 145- Big, 166. Benedict, 146. Shoemakers, .67. Ruyci^ft, 147. Bill Berry, 169. Deniston, 148. Raspberry. We now reach busy and picturesque GANANOQUE, inhabited by about three thousand people, eighteen miles East of Kingston, nearly the center of the Thousand Is- lands. It maybe well to state here that authorities (?) dif- fer as to how many islands there really are. Some say fif- teen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully write, nearly two thousand. Life is too short for us to stop and count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have no desire to earn fame as statisticans by asserting the cor- rect number. The " Phat Boy " has just issued the only correct map of the St. Lawrence River, published, which will not be misleading to' the student of minute details. But we digress. We are still at Gananoque. It is comparatively easy to get away, for steamers ply along this Canada shore, keeping well north of the many islands, till they get to Brockville. We soon pass a light on the left called Jack Straw, and on 25 the right observe a beacon and pier. Further along, another light comes in view. The next attractive spot is called by the quaint name of Fiddler's Flbow. The tradi- tions connected with such names are sometimes thrilling and sometimes insipid ; but whether the one or the other, they will continue to stick, but if they serve to indellibly im- press upon our memory some pleasing reminiscence of a " thing of beauty," these names will not be by any means evanescent in their influence. As we frequently say, the elbow is still here, but the fiddler is, 1 guess, over at the camp meeting on Well's Island. He is i)robably first cous- in of " The Arkansas Traveler." But here we are in a tortuous channel, AMONG THE ISLANDS. It must not be supposed that these hundreds of islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out with walks ancj fountains. For every island that has a house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. The number of houses are increasing every year, and I think that in time nearly every island will be occupied in the Ca- nadian channel as they are in the American. On the left is Darling's dock, the famous wood station. We have, as yet, never seen the " DarHng," although the dock is always visible. It may be she is busy in the pantry washing dishes. Two miles and a half below is ROCKPORT. This name would seem to have been given the place on account of its rocky formation. It is avowed here that 26 there are only two seasons ; the rocky season and the icy reason. Most of the visitors come here in the " rocky sea- son." Directly opposite on the right, the Park House on Westminister park is visible; also the fine chapel on Mt. Beulah, its tower being 136 feet high. On the left is Gre- nadier Island Light-house. From the deck of our steamer, looking to the right, we now have one of the most charming views on the St. Law- rence. Alexandria Bay is before us, and the famous Thous- and Island House and Crossmon House can be seen on yonder shore. Within the range of our vision are also the islands transformed by wealth, taste and art into the loveli- est of Smnmer resorts by their owners, namely: Fairyland (twenty acres), C. H. & W. B. Hayden, Columbus, Ohio; Idlewild (four acres), R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. ; and Sport (four acres), H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk. Pa., who died m 1884. Occupied this season by H. C. Wilbur and friends. The scene at night on these islands is enchanting almost beyond description. An approved gas machine supplies the illumination for hundreds of colored lamps suspended in graceful design on Sport Island, which is connected with the other Packer island by a wire suspension bridge. In the distance, one mile, still looking to the right, is the famous Whiskey Island. A pilot of the Canadian line got drunk at his post and fell into an oblivious condition ; the steamboat, under full headway, struck the island, and the name was given in commemoration of that event. Next, to the right, is a stone edifice called the Three Sisters light. They were formerly "old maids," but are now joined to- gether by a stone wall, consequently old maids no longer. 27 The next in order is Cross-over light. At this point in the river the steamer crosses to the American channel, and in a very short time is discovered to be making for the Cana- dian channel again to reach Brockville. Before the tourist gets there, however, he will observe numerous Islands ; the most noted are Bathhurst, Tecumseh, Star, McDonald and Hill Crest. On the left, on the main Canadian shore, com- modious and elegant villas are in view; also St. Lawrence Park, picnic and pleasure grounds of Brockville and vicin- ity. All Summer long, the scene is animated and captivat- ing. The whistle announces in its shrill way that we are now at BROCKVILLE, which was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in Queenston Heights, in the war of 1812. It is situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the Province. It is right at the foot of the Thousand Islands, on an elevation of land, which rises from the rivei in a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of considerable importance. The present population is about 6,500. After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most beauti- ful cHff on the river, the palisades of the St. Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions and suburban villas of Canada's distinguished sons. The most prominent of these is the son of Sir Hugh Allan, whose residence is in- deed superb. The sight-seer observes the winding stairs, boat and bath houses, and other appointments of recrea- tion. Having already intimated that there are other routes 28 which lead to the point in the river which we have now reached, we return westward to bring another party through the American channel. YOU KNOW HER. She is one of the strong minded of the female sex and generally has her own way in everything. At any rate she stands ready at any and all times to combat with an^ one of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who may dispute her sway. We prefer your imagination to fill in as a descrip- tion because it would be next to an impossibihty for me to. She has all the requisites: the thin, tall figure, the hatchet face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always carries an um- brella. About one each day will pass down this route in Summer, except when an Eastern or Westprn Excursion comes, then it will be hard to select those who are not of her kind. The first object that strikes the eye is our manly figure. After looking it will over, she remembers that fat people are proverbly jolly and good natured, so she breaks into conversation, and about the first question she asks, is: " Were you always as large as you are now ?" " Oh ! Yes. I was born this size." The answer causes her to discover she has left out the word "proportion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first time, and we are friends for the trip. ^9 Route ' B." The boats of the R. & O. N. Co. Royal Mail line leave Kingston at five o'clock a. m., except on Monday, for Al- exandria Bay and Montreal. For the first three-quarters of an hour, there is nothing especially worthy of note. Then we strike the cross over channel. Now, the time is early morning, the sun is quite bright, and the atmosphere is remarkably clear. The scene is now attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little to the left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hundreds have been deceived with the idea that it was an actual live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely reach. It is a delusion ,' 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, or rather beautiful foliage, has deceived the eye of the novice of this region. On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for the edu- cation of whose children a school is maintained. CLAYTON is in the American channel. In the distant front, just be- fore landing, we have a magnificent view of ^^v^speci park and hill, a delightful spot for recreati^Jn and pleasure. No better view can be had of the iF>lands and surrounding 30 country than from the eminence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. It is a village that derives its impor- tance to tourists as being the terminus of the Utica and Black River Railroad, and here it is where passengers from the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. Law- rence. There are three good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton and The West End Hotels, kept by as genial landlords as ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go out daily. The steamer J. F. Maynard runs from this port in connection with the above named railroad for Alexandria Bay and other landing places eii route. Opposite Clayton, on the left as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle on left is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. E. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, who has lavishly expended a large amount of money for comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking. Last season he purchased the steam yacht Lancet said to be the fastest yacht on the river. The next island on the left, about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The origin of this " euphonious" name has not been handed down by tra- dition. On the right is Washington Island ; on the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff Island, and behind which is Robin's Island. Next, on the right, over two miles from Clayton, is ROUND ISLAND •and park. This is the property of the Baptist Association, and every year people of this persuasion in large numbers gather iC?!^ religious worship and recreation. There is a tenperance hotel, fitted with the modern appointments, for the accommodation of ;;joo guests, named the Round Island House. The docks are in excellent condition, and the fish- ing boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island and " Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in view ; the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. Harbodle. On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many others not known to me, as they spring up as ([uickly as mushrooms do in an open field. Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. About one mile from Round Island on the right is Watch Island or "Indolence," owned by S. T. Skinner. On the left are Blutf, Maple and Hemlock, the three pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone Island. On Hemlock is the CHff House, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five minutes after leaving Round Island, we come in sight of Hub Island and House, burned in March, 1884, which lie on the left ; Crrinnell's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also on the left. On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's island, owned by Eugene Robinson, New York banker and broker (he broke Drew), Johnson's light, Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, the original light-house keeper, and after w^hom the island is named, was the man who burned the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaUa- tion for sending the Carolina over Niagara Falls. Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper end of Well's Island, now called Wellesley Island, is Twin Island, owned by J. L. Huntington. On the left, and in connec- tion with the Thousand Island Park, is the bath house, in a delapidated condition, where the Methodists can get bap- tism, a la Bob Ingersoll, with soap. Said to be good for this world, if not hereafter. We now land at 32 THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, at a iine wharf, and close to a large number of handsome cot- tages. You can tell what the place is the moment you ap- proach it. There is no mistaking a Methodist Summer camp, find it where you will. It is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the Thousand Island Park, a Metho- dist resort, opened in 1873, Although the scenery is some- what marred by the great number of solemn-faced clergy- men strolling about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful spots to be found among the islands. Camp- meetings are held here; also Sunday-school and temperance and educational conventions, and other meetings all through the summer. A large and spacious hotel completed, was opened July loth, 1883. The name was originally Thous- and Island Camp Ground, but was changed in 1878 to its present name. Again on our way, the first house on the left is owned by Harlow J. Remington, Ilion, whose fame and fortune is in rifles. Next on the left Wellesley House and beautiful cottage. On the right, handsome villas line the shore of the island. About half a mile from Wellesley House is Jolly Oak point, with its four cottages, two owned by the Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the fourth by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here to Lookout point is about half a mile ; and next is Rood's place, with a fine dock and good accommodations for tour- ists. About two hundred yards below is Peel's dock where the boat Robert Peel was burned in 1837. This dock was rebuilt in 1884. Robin's cottage, 100 feet to the left; a little below on the right is the farm of Captain Jack ; you can see the old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held here week- ly). (This "goak" would take better if you was just intro- duced to Limburger for the first time) On the right is Collins' dock ; below a few feet is Calumet Island, and cottage, owned by Rev. Henry ^i. Waite, of Ilion, N. Y. On the right lies the remains of old Captain Jack's boat, gone to rest. * * * Here you are expected to drop a tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. The next island on the right is owned by Mr. Moffet, of Water- town, N. Y. Passing the bays, we come on the right to Central Park, formerly Grinnell's Point and parade ground, purchased by parties and laid out for a park. Several large and beautiful cottages were built last season and many con- templated for this season. Foot of Central Park is Page point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s line of steamers. On the right is POINT VIVIAN. Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the St. Lawrence River, about 2^ miles from Alexandria Bay. It was formerly owned by Capt. W. H. Houghton, and was purchased by Messrs. Geo. Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. Wood, Dr. L. E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer and E. Hungerford, in the fall of 1877 (all of Evans Mills, N. Y.) They had it surveyed into 40 building lots, with parks avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built 200 feet long, and any boat from a skift' to an ocean steamer can land here. 34 Point Vivian is one of the pleasantest resorts on the river ; here, every one throws off all business cares, sitting under the wide spreading branches of the fragrant Pine, watching sail and steam crafts passing up or down this beautiful Queen of rivers. It is situated in what is known as the narrows and is noted for its fine fishing grounds. The boss fisherman on the point is Tozer, he appears to have a charm (we don't know where) but we know he has one, and when he launches his basque, the fish swarm around and just ask to be "tuk in," and are always took. The following named persons together with the original purchasers have built cottages here : R. Rodenhurst, Theresa, N. Y. Mrs. Chadwick, Theresa, N. Y. C. Allen, Theresa, N. Y. Sidney Cooper, Watertown, N. Y. C. Young, Syracuse, N. Y. L. Sharon Sterlingville, N. Y. Mr. Aldrich, Sterlingville, N. Y. M. Horton, Watertown, N. Y. Taylor, Watertown, N. Y. W. S. Cooper, Evans Mills. E. O. Hungerford, Evans Mills. A. M. Cook, Evans Mills. C. Briant, Evans Mills. E. Hungerford, Evans Mills. Whitney & Kinney, Gouverneur. L. Smith, Gouverneur, Several gentlemen from Watertown have purchased a number of lots adjoining and have been incorporated with 35 the point. The management intends to add some valuable improvements the coming season, grading the streets and avenues, building a large ice house, putting up wind mill, &c. There are a few more desirable lots for sale on this point, those contemplating building on the river would do well to visit this famous resort. Connected with this point is LONG POINT, owned by Mr. Curtis of Cleveland, Ohio, he has erected a nice cottage thereon where he spends his summer. Curtis is a "prince of good fellows" and the pointers reckon on him as one of 'em. The officers are : W. S. Cooper, President. Sidney Cooper. R. Rodenhurst, John J. Kinney. Trus- tees. W. M. Comstock, Secretary. Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. Dean, of New York, firm of Bramall, Dean & Co. Mr. Dean is a very enthusiastic lover of the scenery as well as the hunting and fishing in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, quite early in the spring, and often remaining until winter fairly sets in, for no where else can he get such a variety of fish and game and have the sur- roundings so agreeable. After leaving Point Vivian, on the right, is Curtis Point and cottage. The next is Alleghaney Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, Pa. The fence was built to keep the children from falling into the river. Next on the right is Keppler Point, Beula Vista Lodge, owned by F. A. Bos- 36 worth, of Milwaukee, Wis., he is an invalid, and has not been home for ten years, says he will not return home until he can walk. I am pleased to say he told a friend of mine that his stay of three months here was of more benefit to him than a tour through Europe. Centennial Isle is owned by Mr. Sissons, of Watertown, N. Y. Comfort, in close proximity is owned by A. S. Clark, of the Chicago 111. Board of Trade. His is the largest and finest cottage of the group. Beyond is Hills island, also, Devil's Rock and Oven. This gentleman has expended a large amount of money m building a stone wall around the same, and in many ways beautifying the surroundings. On the left is Winslow Point and Seven Isles. Beyond is Louisiana Point owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans. Next on the right is Warner's Isle, very much on the dilapidated order. On the right is Cuba Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of Buf- falo, N. Y., and is occupied by Mr. Easton and family, of N. Y. A little further on is Cleveland Point and Edgewood Cottage owned by G. C. Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. Next on the right is Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several cottages, one is owned by Rev. George Rockwell, of Fulton, N. Y.; he was the first pastor of the Reformed Church of Alexandria Bay. The large brown cottage is owned jointly by A. B. Pullman, and G. B. Marsh, of Chi- cago, 111. Opposite on the left is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, Rye, Welcome, Florence, Imperial and Linlith Gow. This group may be seen in the order given, beyond is Westmin- ster Park, Hart's Island, Fairy Land and Dishler. We now shoot into Alexandria Bay. The Thousand Island House. Situated on the River St. Liiwrence, at Alexandria Bay, Jeflereon County, New York, and in the immediate vicinity of tlie far-famed THOUSAND ISLANDS, The very Mecca of Pleasure-Seekers. Tlie Centre of Gravity. The pivot upon which revolves everything. Tliis House contains all the modern improvements, with elevator. Rooms single or en suite, with bath rooms and closets attached, and everything that can add to tiie comfort or convenience of the guests. Travelei-s will find this place as liealthful as it is beautiful, witii no mosquitoes or ciiills and fever, while to the finest scenery in the world are added to the attractions of BOATING, FISHING, HUNTING AND BATHING, AS WELL AS BILLARDS, BOWLING ALLEY, CROQUET GROUNDS, Etc. Parties taking rooms for the season will find liberal deductions from regular rates. Send for pamphlet with terms, et . At this Hotel was held the Banquet tendered President Arthur, in October, 1882. R. H. SOUTHGATE, Proprietor, Alexandria Bay, New York. CHAS. P. CLEMES, Manager, Late of Murray Htll Hotel. N. Y. 38 ALEXANDRIA BAY, which is three or four miles long, and one-and-a-half miles wide, reaching from the shore, on the American side, to Wells Island. The chief feature around here is the grand hotels — the largest known as the Thousand Island House ; the finest building on the St. Lawrence river. From the Bay fishing parties are constantly going out. The channels about the islands are the Paradise of fishermen. The boats are the most convenient and comfortable in the world, the boatmen the most accommodating, and the pickerel, pike and gamey black bass and rock bass, and muscalonge, in the greatest abundance. WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA BAY. In 1872, President Grant visited this delightful spot, a guest of R. M, Pullman, of palace car fame, Pullman Island. There was at that time inadequate hotel accom- modations, for the tourist as well as the visitor who had been drawn to this the most beautiful natural scenery in the world. Messrs. Cornwall and Walton of Alexandria Bay with their usual display of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact for which they have always been commended, offered to give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man who would erect upon it, a first class summer hotel. Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of this offer came, he saw, and how he conc^uered you shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, he concluded to father the scheme, securing a man with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or rock rather, was broken January 39 1 4th, 1873, and the Thousand Island House was completed and opened July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of starting. Rumor says that although their money gave out a little above the first story Staples' indomitable will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a millionare. During the next two years of the partnership of Staples and Nott. everything did not go as smoothly as a marriage bell, but still they went, and in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope the reader if he knows Staples will not be so unkind as to accuse him of parting with all his experience and make the pun that he took the money and Nott the experience.) Staples bought out Nott, and I believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the hotel until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate, (the man of many hotels, too numerous to mention here), bought him out. The many changes that have been made, and those con- templated, and when completed, will make this the mecca of summer resort watering places, the Venice of America. I desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate will not lose sight of what has in the past made the Bay popular as a resort. I Hke to see the standard of visitors raised as well as the prices. I would like it to be the place for fish as well as those who love the piscatorial art. No dust, no dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no mosquitoes, light, dry air, cool and bracing. Thermometer never over 80 nor be- low 50 in July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of cool re- freshing sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pul- monary complaints will find great relief here. Steamers, steam yachts and sailing vessels abound, everything to ani- 40 mate the scene and inhance the pleasure of visitors is done. Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abounds, and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay come, if you have been, come and see it under the new reign of success, and I know you will be pleased. The season of 1885 the Thousand Island House will be under the man- agement of Chas. P.^ Clemes, who for the past seven years has been connected with such hotels as the Rossin House, Toronto, Windsor, Montreal, Albermarle and Murray Hill, N. Y., which ought to be all the reference required to as- sure guests of the Thousand Island House that they will be well taken care of. VISITORS AT THE 1,000 ISLANDS, who desire to visit Montreal and return by boat (their time being Hmited), the following information will be of interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal between six and seven o'clock, p. m., as there is little to see at night and very little time to see it in. The boat leaves her dock, Canal Basin to return, every morning at 9 o'clock, except Sunday. You can remain in Montreal until the 12 M., train for Lachine from the G. T. R. Station, (by taking that train, fare 35 cents, you will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and enjoy your dinner while passing through Lake St. Louis.) Should you desire to prolong your stay, remain in Montreal until the 5 p. m., train leaves same depot for Coteau Landing. A car- riage in waiting will take you to the boat, fare from Mon- treal, including carriage $1.25. You will take passage from there at seven o'clock, and have your supper on board of boat while passing through Lake St. Francis. As it takes the boat sixteen hours longer to come back, than to 41 go down, (reason, they are compelled to pass through the Lachine, Bohomoise and Cornwall canals, which con- sumes the time.) All passengers arrive at Alexandria Bay, every day, between one and two o'clock, j). m., except on Monday. WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. During the summer of 1884 1 was at the Thousand Is- land House, Alexandria Bay, N. Y., and took note of some of the best catches of fish, which with pleasure I give space here, that my friends may see, and those who may have heard that there is no good fishing at the bay, a chance to judge. Let me first say that anybody can catch fish of the following varieties anywhere in the St Lawrence River : Rock Bass, Black Bass, Perch, Pike, Pickerel and Musca- longe. I have caught, off the dock at the bay, in less than two hours, a Black Bass weighing three and one half pounds and a Pickerel weighing over six pounds. THE FISH CATCH OF 1884. While the fishing commenced quite early last season the first catch of note was made by Dr. J. L Perry, of Sara- toga Springs, N. Y., on June 24th, which consisted of Black Bass, Pickerel and Muscalonge, and the Doctor is credited with catching the largest Muscalonge of the season weigh- ing 18 pounds. Mr. Abe Harris, of N. Y., caught, July 4th, two Black Bass weighing 4J and 4^ pounds each, his entire catch num- bered 27, and he was only three hours away. Mr. M. J. HuRCH, caught July 6th, four of the largest 42 Oswego Bass of the season, their respective weights being 5i 5h 4h 4f. Mr. George Miller, of 916 Sixth Avenue, N. Y., caught a Pickerel, July 8th, weighing 14 pounds. Quite an excitement prevailed on the morning of July 8th, in front of the 1,000 Island House, where three gentlemen guests caught each a pickerel, weighing respectively 7J, 5J and 4 pounds. Will Estus, a fisherman, caught the same day a pickerel weighing 7 pounds. Dr. Hauks, a dentist of New York, caught in two hours, not two hundred yards from the Hotel five Pickerel, the largest weighing 12 pounds, and four others 15 pounds. The Doctor prefering Bass fishing, caught one day 24 fish that did not vary two ounces from two pounds each, a very pretty sight to look upon if you admire fish. Mr. Hurburt R. Clark, of New York, firm of Teft, Weller & Co., is probably the most enthusiastic as well as the best posted gentleman that comes to the bay to fish. He caught during the month of June, 1,407 Black Bass. The custom prevails, or rather the law is, that no fish is kept that weighs less than one pound. Mr. Clark put back of the above number 900, the tails of which he clipped in a pecu- liar manner, so he may know each year if the same fish is caught again. One day last summer he caught a Bass while the dinner horn was blowing, and in his haste he gave tlie fish a diff"erent clip from the usual one, and proceeded to dinner. Upon his return, the first fish caught was the one he clipped before taking his meal. He must have been stuck on Clark or the bait, the reader can judge for himself. Mr. F. G. Ringold, of Cincinnati, Ohio, an experienced fisher in those waters for over 20 years ; he knows just 43 where to catch any kind of fish desired. I tested his ability in that channel one day by ordering several varieties as well as sizes of fish, and the order was filled to the letter in every particular, consisting of two four-pound Bass, two Pike weighing seven pounds, etc., etc. One great trouble he encountered as well as others during the forepart of the season, was the abundance of sniall shad said to have been put ni to propagate the streams by Seth Green, the fish cul- turist of N. Y., which furnish food for the large fish, so they are not tempted by bait. The day I speak of, Mr. F. G. Kingold said that the first fishes caught each threw uj) one of those small shad upon being thrown into the boat. Messrs. J. S. ^: S. H. Ehrich, Ehrich Brothers, of N. Y., came to the Bay to catch fish and enjoy themselves, which they do. They caught, July 25th, 35 Black Bass, two of which weighed 7 pounds. They took their yacht for a twenty-four hour trip among the Islands, returning inside the day with 217 Black and Oswego Bass, weighing from i^ pounds to 5 pounds each They caught the first Musca- longe of the season. W. C. CoMPTON a guest of Mr. Ringold, of Cincinnati, caught, July 25th, 22 Black Bass, weighing 37 pounds, the largest 3^, 3 and 2^ pounds. W. H. Eagan, of Chicago, 111. Mr. Thomas De Silver and F. H. Rockwell, of Warren, Pa., formed a party to take in a few days fishing among the Islands, July 23, they brought home 65 Black Bass weighing 115 pounds the largest weighing 3 J pounds, the best average size fish of the season. W. Irving Snyder, Sporting Goods House, Nassau St., N. Y., caught a Pickerel, weighing 6^ pounds, within one hundred yards of the 1,000 Island House, July 29th. 44 Mr. G. DeWitt, Belleville, N. J., caught an Oswego Bass weighing 6 pounds, and 5 Black Bass weighing from i to 3 pounds each. Mr. a. J. Post, of Jersy City, caught 12 Black Bass» weighing 27 pounds, the largest weighed 3 J pounds. Mr. G. W. Pease and Mrs. A. Given, caught, Aug. 4thy 10 Pickerel weighing from 2^ to 5f each. Mrs. M. Hemingway, Jr., of Watertown, Conn., caught, Aug. 5th, a Pickerel weighing 7 pounds. Mrs. H. R. Clark, of N. Y., caught. Aug. 5th, 16 Black Bass weighing 24 pounds, the largest ^^ pounds. Mr. Dabney Carr, of St. Louis, Mo., caught three Bass weighing 7 pounds, and 7 Pickerel weighing 29 pounds. Little Charley Neilson, caught a Pickerel, Aug. 6th^ weighing 5^ pounds. His brother caught on the same day one weighing 4^ pounds. Mrs. M. p. Dunbar, of N. Y., caught, Aug. 6th, 6 Pick- erel weighing 24 pounds, the largest weighed 6 J pounds. H. M. Williams, of N. Y., caught 7 Wall Eyed Pike weighing 28 pounds. W. E. Lanier, of N. Y., caught a Black Bass, Aug. 8th,, weighing 3J pounds. Alex B. Simon, of N. Y., caught a Wall Eyed Pike weigh- ing 7 pounds. Mr. Jule S Ehrich, of N. Y. and party, consisting of Mr. Mark Stein, W. H. B. Douse, of Boston, J. Stern. M. Schlein, C. Schlein, together caught, Aug. nth, 176 Black Bass weighing 250 pounds in six hours and twenty minutes* Mr. Harry M. Stadler, of N. Y., caught, Aug. 13th, a Wall Eyed Pike, weighing over 6 pounds, and several Black Bass weighing over 3 pounds. 45 Judge Troy, of Brooklyn, N. Y., and a select party, caught, Aug. 13, 100 Black Bass weighing from ij to 3 J pounds each. The Judge, who is a good shot with a rifle, brought home a Loon weighing 22 pounds, and a Mink. Being quite an amateur taxidermist he prepared them for his private collection, which I understand is quite large and contains many rare specimens. Mr. a. Isaacs and Mr. S. White, with their ladies, were Wishing, Aug. 12th, and caught 87 Black Bass in 9 hours. Mrs. a. Isaacs and her daughter caught the two largest Pickerel of the season, one weighed 13 lbs. and the other 12 pounds. Mr. H. R. Clark and party caught in July, 1,658 Black Bass, 1,000 were less than one pound They took a trip Aug. 1 2th, with friends and caught 346 Black Bass. Mrs. A. J. Post, of Jersey City, caught a Bass weighing 4^ pounds. Miss Blanch Lincoln, of Boston, (relative of the late lamented Abraham), caught a Pickerel weighing over 3 pounds, and several Black Bass. Mrs. R. L. Mosley and Mrs. A. B. Lincoln, of Boston, Mass., two very enthusiastics on catching fish, determined to make a record, making preparations for a week ahead, went out one day and both caught — cold. The palm for variety of fish for season of 1884, must be awarded to Charles E. Story, of N. Y., who caught, Aug. 2ist, Black Bass weighing 2 J pounds, Black Bass i pound, Muscalonge 5 pounds. Chub if pounds, Wall Eyed Pike 5i pounds. Pickerel 6 pounds ; 23 fish all told, and most every variety in the river. To those who say there is no fishing at Alexandria Bay, (and do not want the earth), allow me to say Mr. H. R. 46 Clark has a standing offer with me, to bet any man $io that he can catch ten pounds of fish (any where within a mile of the Hotel) in an hour. Mr. H. a. Redfield, of Hartford, Conn., caught 70 Black Bass in five hours. Mr. Adrien C. D'Henzel, caught, Aug. 20th, a Black Bass weighing 4 pounds, and a Wall Eyed Pike weighing 5 J- pounds. J. W. Cornish, of N. Y., caught 20 fish in two hours, the largest, a Bass weighing 3 J pounds. Miss Lily Stokem, of N. Y., caught a Pickerel weighing II pounds. Mr. W. R. Proctor, of N. Y., caught the best catch of Wall Eyed Pike for the season, Aug. 20th, five of them, weighed 19 pounds. Mrs. H. a. Redfield, of Hartford, Conn., was taking sl party of her friends out one day for fishing and pleasure, and I requested her to catch me a Whale. Upon their re- turn I was presented with a pecufiar specimen of the finny tribe, which, if not a Whale, was the opposite in size. It was neatly packed in a box and shown for several days, but the oldest fisherman could not say he ever saw its counter- part before. Mr. J. W. Case, owner of the Boat-Livery, who is the best boat builder at the Bay, also dealer in fishing tackle, rented a boat to Mr. Saunders, who caught thirteen Pickerel in two hours. Mr. Case, on a bet, took a man in a boat for one hour and caught seven Pickerel, the largest weighing 4 lbs. He won the bet. Mr. H. Merrell, of Montreal (firm of W. H. Merrell & 47 Co.), caught at Hamilton's Island, 84 pounds of Pike and Pickerel and four Bass weighing 4 lbs. each ; fourteen Pike weighed from 4 to 8 lbs. each. Mr. Merrell caught last season the largest Wall Eyed Pike ever taken from the St. Lawrence on an 8 oz. rod, 17^ pounds weight. He is con- sidered one of the best fishermen on the St. Lawrence. I am really sorry to cut this subject short, but space prevents my giving any more names and catches. The largest fish caught during the season, was a Muscalonge, weighing 38 lbs., caught at an island opposite Rockport ; the largest caught at the Bay, 18 lbs. ; the largest Pike, 7^^ lbs. ; the largest Pickerel, 13 lbs., and the largest Bass, 5^ lbs. Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE. A REAL LIVE DUDE was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit for one thing if I could not for having either money or brains, but will say he was very attentive to the ladies, and it may be said to his credit he never tried to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of the nicest young ladies at the bay to take a boat ride, and for the privilege of their company agreed to do the rowing himself. They had been out upon the water for some time, and he had done the rowing heroically, but getting into the strong current his physical development was being tested to its utmost, when he asked the young ladies "if it would not be better for him to hug the shore." After a pause of a minute the girl-^ iest girl of the group exclaimed : " Well, if you ci^nnot find anything better to hug, do for Heaven sake 'hug the shore !' " 48 SOME OF THE OWNERS. St. John's, five acres, Judge C. Donohue, New York. Manhattan, five acres, Judge Spencer and J. L. Has- brouck. New York. Deshler, twelve acres, W. G. Deshler, Cokuiibus, O. Deer, twenty-five acres, S. Miller, Rochester, N. Y. Fairy Land, twenty acres, C. H. and W. B. Hayden, Columbus, O. Piatt, two acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. Brown's, ten acres, S. G. Pope, Alexandria Bay. Pleasant, three acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. Pulln\an's, three acres, George M. Pullman, Chicago, 111. Friendly, three acres, A. B. Parker and Abner Mellen, Jr., New York. Cherry, nine acres, the Reverend George Rockwell, Ful- ton, N. Y. Nobby, over three acres, H. R. Heath, New York. Welcome, three acres, S. G. Pope, Ogdensburgh, N. Y. Florence Proctor, one acre, E R. Proctor, Cincinnati, O. Maple, three acres, J. L. Hasbrouck, owner. Netts, one-half acre, E. A. Kollymer, Brooklyn, N. Y. Summer Land, ten acres, the Reverend Asa Saxe, D. D., Rochester, N. Y.; Almon Gunnison, D. D., Brooklyn; and Richmond Fisk, D. D., Syracuse, N. Y. Isle Imperial, one acre, Mrs. LeCount, Philadelphia, Pa. Linleth Gow, one-half acre, R. A. Livingston, New York. Elephant Rock, one-fourth acre. T. C. Crittenden, Wa- tertown, N. Y. Idlewild, four acres, R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. Arcadia and In a, two acres, S. A. Briggs, New York. Sport, four acres, H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk, Pa, 49 Kit Grafton, one-fourth acre, Mrs. S. L. George, Water- town, N. Y. Island Mary, two acres, W. L. Palmer, Watertown, and James M. Browner, St. Louis. Little Charm, one-eighth acre, Mrs. F. W. Barker, Alex- andria Bay. Frost, two acres, Mrs. Sarah L. Frost, Watertown. Excelsior Group, five acres, C. S. Goodwin, Oneida, New York. Eesort, three acres. Pioneer Club, Watertown. Island Royal, Royal E. Dean, New York. Devil's Oven, one-fourth "ucre, has been fitted up with an observatory, H. R. Heath, New York. Sylvan and Moss, three acres, S. T. Woolworth, Water- town, N. Y. Cuba, five acres, W. F. Storey, Buffalo, N. Y., and occu- pied by Mr. Easton, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Little Angell, one-eighth acre, W. A. Angell, Chicago. Little Lehigh, one acre. Col. R. B. Yates, Rochester, and C. H. Cummings, New York. Warner's, four acres. Island Home, one acre, S. D. Hungerford, Adams, N. Y. Sunny Side, one acre, Mrs. Emily Moak, Watertown, N. Y. Wild Rose, one acre, W. G. Rose, Cleveland, Ohio. No name, one-quarter acre, Mrs. F. Hammerkin, Syra- cuse, N. Y. Harmony, one-quarter acre, Mrs. Celia Berger, Syracuse, N. Y. Wynnstay, one acre, Mrs. Bergin, of Spuyten-Duyvel, N. Y. AHce Isle, two acres, J. G. Hill, Brooklyn, N. Y. 50 Sunbeam Group, one acre, C. E. Ailing, Rochester, N. Y. Walton, two acres, Mrs. Robins, and Mrs. Robinson, of New York and Brooklyn, purchased in 1883, will be im- proved by all the art at their command. Bula Vista, Lodge Keepler Point, owned by Mr. Bos- worth, of Milwaukee, Wis. Seven Sister Isles, owned by Dr. Winston, of Washington, D. C. Comfort, formerly Pratt and Centennial, owned by A. E. Clark, of Chicago Produce Exchange, who has spent $20,000 upon the spot to beautify it. Deer Island, owned by Hon. Sam. Miller, of New Haven, Conn., formerly of Rochester, N. Y. Melrose Lodge, owned by Mrs. A. B. Pullman and Mrs. C. B. Marsh. riorance Island, owned by H. S. Chandler, of the Inde- pendent. Two-Islands-in-Eel-Bay, two acres, E. L. Sargent, Water- town, N. Y. Long Branch, ten acres, Mrs. C. E. Clark, Watertown, N. Y. Nigger, three acres, Eugene Robinson, of New York. Ella, one-quarter acre, R. E. Hungerford, Watertown, N. Y. Lookout, two acres, Thomas H. Borden, New York. Grinnell Island, two acres, D. G. Grinnell, Brooklyn, N. Y. Douglass, three acres, Douglass Miller, New Haven Conn. Hart's, five acres, E. Kirke Hart, Albion, N. Y. Sunny-Side, two acres, Wm. Stickenson, Sayre, Pa. Wau Winnett, two acres, Mr. Hill, Chicago, 111. 51 WESTMINSTER PARK. Opposite the Thousand Island House, is Westminster Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. It is eight miles long and from three to four miles wide. On the other side of it is the Canadian channel of the river, about half a mile wide. The lower end of tfiie Island is separated into two parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called the "Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the river, on both the American and Canadian sides, by a narrow chan- nel. The Lake is five or six miles long, as smooth as glass, and is altogether too pretty and too romantic to attempt to describe. Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presbyterian stock company, and it now has about 15 miles of drives and some fine buildings. It has two long water fronts — one on the American side of the river, and the other on the Lake of the Island, on the Canadian side, there is a high hill on the island called Mount Beulah, though after climb- ing it I think the Hill Difficulty would be a more appro- priate name. There is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known as Bethune Chapel, with seating accommoda- tions for a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, afi"ording a beautiful view of the river and the islands. The name of the chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. W. Bethune was the pioneer tourist through this region, and till his death continued to come here summer after summer for recreation. 52 BONNIE CASTLE. "Timothy Titcomb" (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of Scribner's Monthly), chose this point as [a haven of rest and recuperation, and who does not commend his choice. It will be remembered that he died in New York shortly after leaving his cherished Bonnie Castle in 1881 for his ardous winter's labors. Li^ht house in the distance. A LETTER FROM SETH GREEN. NEW YORK STATE FISHERY COMMISSION. Office of the Superintendent. Rochester, N. Y., March 20th. My Dear Little " Phat Boy:" You request of me a letter for your book. Let- ter writing is not my forte, but yoa are welcome to use these facts. In 1855 I bought an island near Alexandria Bay, built a house upon it in the fall and moved there with my family the next spring and lived there during the summers of 1856 and 1857. The year 1858 I spent a part of the season with a party of prominent gentlemen. During the time I was there, if I wanted black bass for breakfast I could take my two fly rods and take from 5 to 10 black bass by trolling around my island of 4 acres, and any time after Aug. ist, I could take my gun and kill a mess of ducks in a short time. There was a few deer on Welles Island then. I have killed 50 ducks in one day among the islands, and I could take 100 black bass with fly any day I wished. Immediately opposite is Hart's Island, back of which is Deshler. Next on the left is 53 MANHATTAN, the first island on which habitation was attempted. It was bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of N. Y., in 1855. He built a cottage upon it and for several years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Hasbrouck and Judge J. C. Spencer^ of N. Y., purchased it from him. They have spent $15,000 upon the Island. ' The original cottage built by Seth Green still remains and is used by them as a dining room. Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking backward, is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hayden, of Colum- bus, O. This is really one of the finest islands in the river. At a vast expense art has triumphed over nature, trans- forming a barren into the loveUest of green lawns. Next on the left is Deer island ; then SUMMERLAND. Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the " Thous- and Islands," is located mid-way between the north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, about three miles be- low Alexandria Bay, having an area of fourteen acres and IS the largest of the "Summerland group," which includes "Idlewild," "Sport," "Ida" and "Arcadia." The island is covered with a dense forest furnishing an abundance of shade and is said to have the finest groves on the river. At the extreme northerly and southerly ends of the island there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in this locaHty, which are used by the " Summerlanders" for bathing purposes. The island is traversed from end to end by a most delightful natural avenue, densely shaded and lined on either side with a thick undergrowth of wild 54 flowers and ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland Association, a corporation organized under and by virtue of the laws of the State of New York, for social and yachting purposes, and composed of the following stock- holders: Rev. Asa Saxe, D. D., Isaiah F. Force, James Sargent, Sears E. Brace, Emory B. Chase, Henry C. Wis- ner, Lewis P. Ross, Francis M. McFarlin, Chas. W. Gray, George H. Newell, Henry O. Hall, Joseph A. Stull and Frank W. Hawley, of Rochester, N. Y.; Rev. Richmond Fisk, D. D., Alfred Underhill and Horace Brouson, of Syracuse, N, Y.; Rev. Almond Gunnison, D. D., and Frank Sperry, of Brooklyn, N. Y. The association have erected upon the island a large and commodious " Club House" wherein the members of the association and their famiHes take their meals. After setting apart a large grOve at each end of the island for general use. the balance of the island was divided into lots, one of which was assigned to each stockholder. Upon these lots so assigned, the members of the association have erected cottages for the sole use of their own families. In addition to the Club House the association has erected numerous paviHons and summer houses in different parts of the island, together with a large ice-house and has con- structed several docks of sufficient size to permit of the land- ing of large steamers. The association owns a large steam yacht which is used in running to and from Alexandria Bay and for fishing and pleasure excursions. P>ach member of the association provides himself with sailing and row boats. The Club house is o]:)ened for the reception of the members of the association and tlieir im- 55 mediate familfts only^ on the first day of July of each year, and remains open until about September 15th, during all of which time the yacht is at the service of the party. Between Deer island and Summerland is Cedar ; back of Cedar is Sport, owned by H. A. Packer, who died in 1884. The island, however, will be occupied this year by H. C. Wilbur, G. B. Linderman, C. B. Newton, and other friends. Anthony point is on the right. This place is the resort of E. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photogra- phic goods in New York. APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF THE ENGLISH. This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, but I am sorry to say in free America^ better known as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the average Canadian who is, as it were, governed by Queen Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty in the aping of their manners and customs, but in this land where we have an abundance of Queens, Princes, Lords and Sovereigns, who are not flattered by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat Boy," (I spell it with ' Ph ' because it does not sound so greasy), but the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred miles, then- a little way on it becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is Major, in South Carolina it is Judge or General, until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say there " great God is that you ? " but we diverge, returning 56 to the aping of the manners of Princess Louise. I wish to say right here that I firmly believe it did the Canadian people a great amount of good, but fail to see where the people of the United States could be benefitted. I was told that at Kingston the Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the hulls on, and when placed before her she took them up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now everybody does the same ; previous to her visit they used to hull and wash them before placing them on the table. The same with grapes, they used to wash them in a goblet of water at the table before eating them, now they take the grape between the thumb and finger, press it gently to the lips and squeeze gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the plate as the Princess did. Asparagus, it was almost painful for me to see Canadians eat it in as many ways as there were people at the table, in fact no two ate it alike until after the Princess came ; now everybody takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and finger, and putting it into the mouth, closes the teeth down upon it and draws it gently from the mouth, leaving all that is digestible within and the remainder is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saymg, it was nonsense, if your hands were clean, to wash a virgir^ pea. YACHTING. Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such water ! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pensive 57 or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought into requisition. Private yachts are numerous and elegant, and it is to the credit of the owners that they are not niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and courtesy. They are constantly inviting individuals and parties to enjoy the exhilerating excitement of the shooting around the beauti- ful spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful fairy- like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the Island Waitderer^ or Capt. Sweet, of the John Tkorn, and they will take you on an excursion among the islands that you will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been offered to bring within the range of your vision enchanting scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by pur- chasing one of the " Phat Boy's " Birdseye Maps of the St. Lawrence, you will be the possessor of the only correct map of the St. Lawrence. A perfect chart and guide to the river. Still continuing our course, looking to the right, is the cottage of Mrs. Clark of Watertown. Next, Goose bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near which is the Three Sister's Island ; before the Three Sister's is Hume's Island. Next, on the left, is Whiskey Island, and on the right opposite are a number of large and small islands, the names of which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. Goose bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly homely. It is studded with islands, and fishing abounds. It is here that Mr. Hurbert R. Clark, of New York, in one day caught some 300 pounds of black bass, ranging in weight from i^ pounds to 6|- pounds. On the right is S8 Lyon's dock and IVIeeker's island. Next, on the left, is Three Sisters Hght ; in the distance is Lone Star, or Dark Island; Island No. i, it is called by some. After passing on the left is a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is Chippewa bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort of Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous islands. All around the shore are camps, cottages, etc., and make an animated scene for the tourist. Three miles from Chip- pewa bay on the left is Crossover light ; thence three miles to Cole's light on the left, where we enter the Canadian chan- nel. Nine miles in the distance is Brockville. On the right opposite Cole's light is Oak point. Four miles below is Allen's landing, a very popular place for picnics, etc. On the left a prominent bluft". On the right for six miles the islands come thick and fast ; huge rocks rise from the water's surface, with very little vegetation or foliage, and the boat makes her way rapidly among them, winding around like a snake, heading for all the points of the com- pass, frequently getting herself into coves and bays that apparently have no outlet, but always finding a channel, and sailing triumphantly out into the broad waters again. On the left three miles this side of Brockville is the wreck of a schooner, the S. M. Cook, laden with iron ore. She was sailing up ; the wind subsided, causing her to drift upon the rocks, and remained. The Cook was raised by the Kingston wreckers last season. A little beyond is St. Law- rence park, used for pleasure and jncnic parties, especially by our Canadian friends of Brockville. We are now at the village of Brockville ; we " take a rest " for route C. In front of Brockville are the last three of the Thousand 59 Islands ; being some distance from the rest it is presumable they drifted away, and finally rooted here. This, however, was " long befo' de wah ! " Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, lively American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a station on the Utica and Black River R. R.; connects with Brockville by two steam ferries. This is a picture of my twin brother. Dr. E. F. Babbage, of Rochester, N. Y. " A friend in need." How I wish I was a doctor. " Phat Boy." 6o Route C' Our object being to make this little book a complete Guide to the Thousand Islands and St. Lawrence River, so that tourists from any section, no matter where they strike, will find it intelligible to learn their location. We have there- fore divided the explanation into three routes First, we took our friends from New York to Niagara Falls, Lewis- ton, Toronto, Kingston and the Canada channel of the St. Lawrence as far as Brock ville. Second, our journey was from Cape Vincent, thence down the St. Lawrence through the American channel to Brockville. Third, and this is the route upon which we are now entering, will be from Cape Vincent to Alexandria Bay. CAPE VINCENT, is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county. N. Y., at the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence river. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections by Steamer St. Lawrence are made to Alexandria Bay. As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or Wolf Island, 21 miles in 'length, and 7 miles in width. The next on the riLi;ht is 6i CARLETON ISLAND. At the upper extremity, the land narrows into a rugged promontory, ending in a blufif sixty feet in height. Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These may be seen for miles around. So long have these old sentinels watched over the scenes around them that their history is lost in the misty past. Around them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. Around its old redoubts and parapets linger antiquated historical legends and traditions enough to fill a volume and forming an interesting study. An ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton Hmestone down to the level of the lake, has been converted by the reckless imaginations of the natives into a receptacle of the golden doubloons which the French soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, are said to have thrown there, with the brass guns on top of them. Upon either side, and immediately in front of the bluff upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, which may once have supplied a safe and easy anchorage for the vessels that lay under its protecting guns. The fortress is supposed to have been one of importance as a military post at some time, having been built upon an excellent plan and in the most substantial manner. Num- bers of graves still occupy a field near by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once occupied the fort. The scene is of deep interest to the students of history. About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vincent and Clay- 62 ton. On the left, two miles before reaching Clayton, is Grindstone Island, five miles long. Cross-over channel is where the Canadian Hne of steamers, leaving Kingston at 5 o'clock in the morning, comes through into the American channel. Before landing at Clayton is Prospect park and hill, which has been systematically laid out for villas and camping parties, and where tourists can always find a com- fortable stopping place. Although we have been traveling among the islands quite early in the morning, we have noticed that the people who occupy the cottages are all up, the ladies sitting on the piazzas reading, generally, and the gentlemen out in small boats fishing. There are two kinds of fishing done here — fishing for fun and fishing for fish. I cannot explain the distinction better than to repeat what a gentleman who was traveling with the party, said to me one afternoon : " We are going to take the ladies out fishing to-morrow," he said, " to give them a taste of the sport- Then, the next day, we are going out alone to catch some fish." "DON'T DO IT." This startling headline when it strikes the eye denotes that there is something to be said of personal benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to make it pleasant as well as profitable to those who take the time to peruse it. To begin with we desire to say, don't get fat, do not allow yourself to develop beyond the line which is laid down for the average man or woman ; because, if you do, the average chair will not fit, the average seat in a railroad coach will be too small, you will be obliged to shrink into it and then take up the seat of another after you get in. The same trouble will occur at amusements, which you enjoy very 63 much, but it so distorts you to occupy the chair that the pleasure is lost ; the average door to a hack is too small^ and so is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slippery, dropping now and then three hundred and twenty pounds because your friend thinks it does not hurt a fat man to fall. You will get no sympathy from anyone, this I will gurantee ; because I have tried it. By way of illustration, if I had not eaten anything for three days but a yard of pump water, and was to come to a friend and say I was hungry^ and had not had anything to eat for three days, he would look me all over and in reply would say : " Well, I guess you can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are the least sympathy you get ; and if Dr. Tanner stood it for forty days you have sufficient fat to last you six months, to say the least. Second, you become, as it were, a curiosity and all look at you with amazement, and wonder what circus or side show you escaped from, or to what dime museum you belong to. Third, there isn't anything made for the average man that will fit you, therefore, everything must be made to order that you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks, or handkerchief. The latter must be seven- eighths to a yard wide in order to hold the prespiration it will mop up in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds, I had no trouble in making a selection of a partner^ for life. She climbed the golden stairs about three years ago, and now I am fair, fat, funny and forty. If I find one now who loves a fat man, I am a little too fat— therefore, this world is a very chilly one for me. After you become a little above the average size as I 64 have in development and are conspicuous, everybody will know you ; if they do not, it will be easy for them to find out, all they are obHged to do is to ask anyone. You wont know only those of your relations and friends very near to you. Then this world will be very lonesome and cold, or your experience will be ditlerent from mine. It would be a treat (were you not sensitive) if you could walk one block and hear the expressions that come from the vulgar throng as they pass. One female, with eyes hke two saucers, ex- claimed : '' Glory be to the father, Mary Ann phwat's that ? " And another say " Got in himmell, what a fat man," or a lady of color declare, " Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de big- gest man I ebber seed." FROM BROCKVILLE TO MONTREAL. Leaving Brockville, a magnificent view greets the eye ; islands are not now in view ; the river is a most beautiful sheet of water running perfectly straight for about sixteen miles with the land on either side in good view, for the river is a little over two miles wide. Three miles from Morristown, on the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist persuasion, mostly. from St. Lawrence county. Five miles on the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point is a prominent object known as the old distillery, whose proprie- tor is said to have been worth, at one time, a million dol- lars, but whose cupidity during "America's unpleasantness" led him into selling " crooked whiskey," or rather disposing of his distillery products in a very " crooked way." With- out giving the details, the facts in brief are : He antagon- ized the Canadian government in the matter of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, he not only 6s lost his distillery, but his fortune, too, and he and his family became reduced to poverty, and none of them re- main around their former home. It is said he first induced his niece to marry the revenue collector of the district, that he might carry on the nefarious business in collusion and. without detection, but you see, '• The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the remains of the founder of Methodism on this continent, Barbara Heck. One mile farther, on the left, is McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by Hon. J. P. Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion, Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm of about 600 acres, and is unquestionably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. The thrift, energy and abihty of this gentleman will not be wondered at when it is learned that he is of American birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated La- batt's brewery and PRESCOTT, with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated con- dition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely laid out, has a fine city hall and market, and there are many fine private residences. It is connected with Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad, distance 54 miles. Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark for that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniel's Hotel as 66 a good stopping place. L, H. Daniels has taken the hotel, and spent $8,000 in improvements ; he is too well known to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Oppo- site is OGDENSBURG, founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. ^^ ^^^^ contains about 10,000 people, and of course ranks as a city. It is the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, Utica and Black River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain railroads. It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and is called the " Maple City." It has a United States Cus- tom House, post-office, and a new opera house, costing $150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, a fire alarm telegraph and two daily newspapers, and possi- bly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town is the big elevator of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain Railroad. One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is Wind- mill point; the old windmill has been turned into a light- house. Here, in 1837, the " Patriots," under Von Shultz a PoHsh exile, established themselves, but from which they were driven with severe loss. We believe this Von Shultz was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, and his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the left, a little below the light-house, is the residence and farm of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Lawrence river, the man who first took the Passport of the Richelieu line down the Long Sault Rapids, in July, 1847. I am also indebted to him for the correctness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other information of benefit to me and the public. 67 Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, with Johnstown — not a very important trading post — overlook- ing. This place has a custom house officer, commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the district ; but these important officials are concentrated in one man. We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed chim- ney island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of old French forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we have discovered of these supposed formidable defences is an extensive moat around the island, twelve feet deep, filled with water. The chimney, from which it derives its name, is supposed to be on the island, but we have looked in vain to discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated down the river ; we will speak of it further on. In the distance, on the left, are Tick, or Pier islands. Some of the finest bass fishing in the river is off this old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this section, last summer caught a black bass weighing seven and one-half pounds while enjoying the sport around the pier. Three miles from Chimney island in the distance, is what is termed " the cut," forming the channel between Galop and Moore's islands. It was the former channel of this line of boats, but the Dominion government are expending six miUions of dollars for the enlargement of the canals of this route, and the survey party at present are blasting a channel through the GALOP RAPID, which may be seen in the distance. The reason of the change of channel is formed with an edict of the pilots not 68 to interfere with the work of the engineer corps engaged on this necessary improvement of excavating a fifteen foot channel, to allow larger boats to pass, and dispense with the use of the Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and smallest rapid on the St. Lawrence River, and as the Phat Boy has termed it, " a little one for a cent." I will, how- ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. AH the rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, large and small, in the bed of the river, and the swift current of water passing over these rocks causes the fearful commotion that you observe. Now, to carry our philosophy a little farther, we say the larger the rocks and the stronger the current, the better the rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no rapids ! This commotion which you see here is caused by a ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under nine feet of water. You can see the swell and white cap which this rock occasions, and then use your best judgement to determine the height of the rocks in Long Sault, where we hope to arrive at one o'clock. (There are, let me state here, eight rapids on our trip to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first and second. The first class are Long Sault, meaning a long leap or jump ; Cedar, deriving its name from the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The second class are Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du Lac, meaning foot of the lake ; Split Rock, derived from a fis- sure which make the channel, and the Cascade, from its re- semblance to a cascade). On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is the entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal is seven and one-half miles in length, and is the finest canal we ar- 69 rive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It would be well here to say that we only have canals around the rapids, or where the current is too strong for a steamer to ascend. We here append a tabular statement of the ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. Edwardsburg canal, y^- miles long, three locks, 14 feet fall in the river ; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 locks, II 1-6 feet fall ; Farron's Point canal, f miles long, i lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 1 2 miles long, 7 locks, 48 feet fall ; Beauharnor's canal, 1 1^ miles long, 9 locks, 84 feet fall ; Lachine canal, 9 miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall. In the distance in front, on the left is the village of Ed- wardsburg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the Ed- wardsburg starch factory the largest starch factory in the Dominion of Canada. The president of the company is the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. He was the great contractor who completed that wonderful piece of work, and is now the manager of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next point of interest. WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger on one of the boats. I do not know whether he took me for the captain, director or manager of the line or not, but he ex- erted himself considerably to form my acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, however, as there is 70 something " distingue " about me, and when on the boat I stand considerably '' above proof." I have frequently dined at the same table with the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin and retinue — after his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. The day in question I was upon the deck of the boat as usual, describing the points of interest, especially the one on the Canadian shore, where the St. Regis Indians come year after year to gather the famous elm with which to make their celebrated baskets. I was deHneating at some length upon the noble red-man, when Eli came to me and said, I will write you a verse of poetry about that. Glad to get a memento in that shape from so distinguished an individual, who had been so often accused of being witty, I said it would please me very much. Here is the verse : " Once here the noble red man took his delights. Fit, fished and bled : Now most of the inhabitants are white. With nary a red." I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent occa- sions took great delight in repeating the lines to the pas- sengers — never forgetting for a moment to remind them that they were written for me by the alleged American humorist. One day, after delivering myself of the poetry and repeating to the passengers that it was written by the celebrated poet, writer, humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached by an exceedingly polite an affable gen- tleman, whom I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, N. Y., who asked if he understood me correctly in attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to Mr. Perkins. I assured him that he had written them expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own handwriting the original copy. With a subdued smile resting u])on his counten- 71 ance, Mr. Rochester informed me that there must be an error somewhere, as a gentleman, a Mr. Fletcher, had writ- ten a poem in 1834, in which the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded to repeat the verse from memory. This took me slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- sion with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cab- bage leaf was never more at home than when in the crown of " Uli Perkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the poem, but determined if ever I met " UH " I should call to his mind the circumstances connected with " his little poem." I had not long to wait, for one day, while in Evansville, In- diana, at the St. George Hotel, I met the gentleman and recalled the circumstance connected with the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance, said that he had never given it a thought since — dashed it off in a minute. I told him how remarkable it was that great minds often run in the same channel and related my experience with his gem. He scowled, and turning on his heel said it was indeed a singular word for word resemblance, but changed the subject at once and asked me to his room on the fol- lowing morning, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, doting all the evening upon having a nice time, and swop- ping a few gags, etc., etc., but my hopes were blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his very early departure — gone up to He to the people of Rockport, I was told. " Uli " is a great man, and contracts a larger amount of business upon a very small amount of capital than any pub- lic character I know of. When Eli reads this I expect he will load his big gun — not intellectual, but otherwise — > and come for me. I will therefore give him a pointer in advance ; there won't anything scare me but a stomach pump. 72 Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois. Here it names a village, formerly known as Matilda, but like all other good ^latildas do, she changed her name to Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The Iroquois In- dians formerly owned this section of country. One and a half miles below this village is the narrowest point in the St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to the gulf This broad expanse of water we are just passing, and the one we ar- rive at immediately after leaving the point, are very shallow, consequently hold the water in check at the point. The depth of water in the shallow places being about 22 feet, while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the river 1,140 feet — 170 feet less than a quarter of a mile. On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is Cedar point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly called Hem- lock point, on account of a fine hemlock standing there, but on one fine morning the hemlock, the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth works that were thrown up in 181 2-13. and batteries were erected on Cedar point. On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of Canada with a population of over five millions. On the right is the main shore of the United States of America with a popu- lation of over fifty millions. When the five millions want those fifty miUions all they will be obliged to do is to walk over and take them. Then will be verified that beautiful passage in Holy Writ which says, •' One shall chase a thou- sand and two put ten thousand to flight. Sing ! " This was really a strong point, and was fortified on both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From the fact 73 of the successful fortifications by the Americans the Rideau canal owes its origin. Guns, and stores or merchandise could not be taken up the river. It was conceived by Col- onel By, of the Engineer corps, that a new canal would ob- viate the difficulty, and all his resources were immediately put into requisition and the canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town to Kingston, and is still in use. Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. On the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg canal, the second canal in the chain, but is not used by this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have to use the canal. In the distance front is Rapid Piatt ; on the right is Ogden's Is- land, the finest wooded island in the St. Lawrence River. Beyond is Waddington, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. In front is this rapid we have just named ; it is the second one and is a '' little one for two cents." It has, however, eight feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent de- sceiiter rapid. MORRISBURG. After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view on the left, the prettiest village in the Dominion of Canada, Look at its churches, public buildings, private residences, and hotels, (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by W. H. Mc- Gannon and Brother, and I can say cheerfully no better hotel in town), which line the banks, for we are still in the Province of Ontario. At half-past three o'clock, will enter the Province of Quebec. You will have a good chance then to compare the difference between the two provinces. Your especial attention is called to this now, that you may 74 "be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe. Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's Island, which was rented by ^Ir. Oz. Doran, of the St. Regis Indians, for one dollar per year, and they come every year, 60 miles to col- lect one dollar. Opposite ]Morrisburg is Dry Island, used for picnics, etc. One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. We speak of this here, for it is about dimmer time, and if you are lucky enough to secure a seat at the first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is presumable you will finish wdthin the hour. THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. It would not be amiss here to state that the meals were formerly served on the American plan, and to give you but a faint idea of the commotion created by the passengers when there was one more person on board than seats at the table, would require a volume ten times this size to describe. Therefore please excuse me if I relate by way of an illus tration what an eminent French writer said on the subject : *• The waiters, like little poppets, would bob up serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or whatever the hand con tained, and was as soon out of sight. This continued for about one hour, while we were seated back against the cabin wall, with just space enough for the waiter to pass between us and the table. When the signal was given everybody made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted could only be described humorcfusly or otherwise, I would like to read it." But the writer said it reminded him of the famous picture in her Majesty's gallery. " The Rape of the Sa- bines.'' (1 have never seen that picture, but presume it is 75 that of a beautiful female poised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things have changed, however, and this season the meals will be served on the American plan, run by the Company, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to superintend the service to the end, that everyone maybe pleased. The up- per saloon will not be used, but what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin will be the dining-room, which gives the whole saloon as a promenade and place of repose and rest for the passengers. I am positive the change will be ac- ceptable. About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is Goose- neck Island, so called from its resemblance to the neck of a goose ; the upper end is the neck ; the narrative is about nine miles long. Plve miles from Morrisburg to CHRYSLERS' FARM, memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the year 1 8 13. The Americans were the attacking party on this oc- casion, having arose early in the morning, crossed the river into the little bay, landed, and immediately went into the contest by attacking the little house. The fight was des- perate, lasting until eleven o'clock, when the Americans, under General WiUiams, were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was completely riddled with bullets. It has since been torn down, and the chimney left as a monument to the battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the river, and remained, having abandoned the trip to Montreal, which they intended. I draw this mild, because I am one of " God's people " myself. Next in interest is Farron's point, opposite which is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long Sault Rapids, we pass on the left Harrison's landing. 76 LONG SAULT ISLAND. At this point there are really two channels, the American channel being on the right of Long Sault Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and are on the left of the island. The distinguishing feature about the American channel is while it is swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- sible for them to go down the Long Sault. In the distant front observe the hght-house at the head of the Cornwall canal, twelve miles in length, that passes around the Long Sault Rapids. The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which is the bow- sprit. The target that you see in the distance is used by the pilot to get his position in Long Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently as you progress, and as they all answer the same purpose, this reference to them will suffice. LONG SAULT RAPIDS. Dickinson's Landing on the left was formerly a very im- portant point on this line, as it was the foot of navigation before the canal was completed some forty years ago. Few changes have taken place since, that are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the first one of tlie first-class rapids, and the third one in line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price on the other two, you can set your own price on this one. A description of these rapids has been given from time immemorial ; it does not behoove us to give any graphic or colored description of this scene, although we might do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the 77 countenances of thousands of passengers who have passed this way every thing in nature from the subUme to the ridi- culous as well as between the two, and as each individual's feelings differ, no one description would do the subject jus- tice. One writer said, " it was like sliding down hill on a steamboat." Another said he felt as if he was being unglued ! A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of epecac. Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in a storm. And yet one more was so exhilerated that he imagined he owned Maud S. and would like to spend his days on the rapids. Another party who had ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray began to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drenching their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed awkward misfits, exclaimed that " it was the grand- est sight they had ever witnessed." I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer to give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts — no " taffy." All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside to prevent accidents if we should strike against a rock. This precaution was found necessary, because the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has resulted from the occasional striking of the boats against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is thirteen and one-half feet, and we are drawing about seven feet. During our passage through all the rapids, we have four men at the wheel, and four men at the tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any ac- cident that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the tiller. 78 MUTUAL ASSOCIATION OIF C.^ISr^^3D.A._ $10,000 Held in Trust for the Association by Prov. Government. Incorporated C. S. of Canada^ Chap, yi and Ainendinents, P resident : A. L. De Martigny, Esq., Cashier -lacqiies-Cartier Bank. Vice-Presidents : Hon. L. R. Church, Q. C, Commissioner of Crown Lands^ Quebec, P. Q. Benj. Globensky, Esq., Q. C. L. H. Massue, ]M. p., President Board of Agriculture for Province of Quebec. John L. Cassidy, Esq., Wholesale Merchant. J. McIntyre, Esq., Merchant. M. Babcock, Esq., Manufacturer. Dr. AV. W. Ogden, Toronto. Arthur Ctagnon, Esq. John Hopper, Esq. J. J. Guerin, Esq., M. D. Hon. Alex. Lacoste, Q. C, M. L. C, - - Legal Adviser. Arthur Gagnon, ...---' Treasurer. John Hopper, Manager. Dr. J. J. Guerin, Medical Director. Section 11.— Assenibly Bill 139, passed March 30th. IKSi. " The Provident Mutual Association of Canada shall be deemed to be an Association duly formed under the said chapter 71 of the Consohdated Statutes of Canada. Reser\'e fund to be invested in Dominion Bonds and deposited in trust with the Provincial Treasurer. GENERAL OFFICE: 162 St. James St., MONTREAL, P. Q. MONTREAL OFFICE: No. 4 Barron Block, JOHN HOPPER, Manager. 79 The Long Sault rapid is nine miles in length ; three miles of boisterous commotion ; six miles of current and sudden^ sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid, the steam on- board of the boat is slowed down until she gets her position in the rapids, as she draws less water than when under full head of steam. We are then compelled to put on full steam as the boat must go faster than the current in order to ob- tain steerage Nvay. Many suppose that no steam is used through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to at- tempt to go down without any propehing power, we would be at the mercy of the current of this stupendous agitation called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat would be first, and it is presumable that this would be any- thing but pleasant to the passenger, for we would go down the same as a log, no one could tell which end of the boat would be first, anything but pleasure to passengers. When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is -obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, however, that the passengers will distribute themselves equally on either side to keep the boat in good trim ; the Captain generally uses the " Phat Boy " for this purpose ; when he is not on board, the passengers are expected to distribute themselves. The view, however, soon changes to the left, and when nearing the point the swell and white caps run from seven to eleven feet in height. We have already explained the causes of the rapids. Now, will any one please . explain to me what is the height of the rocks which create this commotion, and at the same time set their price on this rapid. After passing this point and the swell and white caps that we have been describing,. on the left is the passage to the Canadian channel of this river, which forms Earnhardt's island. On the right is the 8o A RECORD WITHOUT A PARALLEL. MUTUAL RESERVE FUND LIFE ASSOCIATION, BRYANT BUILDING, 55 LIBERTY STREET, NEW YORK. INCORPORATED UXDER THE LAWS OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. 31,4:2 3 Total Membership Number, May 1st, 1885. §S31o,919.63 Amount of Reserve Fund, Mav 1st, 1885, of which S250,000.00 is invested in U. S. Bonds. 3100,000,00 Deiwsited with the Insurance Department of the State. 3200,000,00 Daily Average New Business. 3420,000.00 Assets, May 1st, 1885. 31,000,575.00 Losses Paid. Si 2Q, 900,000.00 Total Busiuess written since date of Orsranization. THE CENTRAL TRUST COMPANY OF NEW YORK, TRUSTEE OF THE RESERVE FUND. E. B. H.ARPER, President. N. W. BLOSS, 2d Vice President. G. F. POTTER, 3d Vic-e President. 0. K. BISSELL, Treasurer. F. T. I;KA>L\X, Secretary. J. M. STEVENSON, Asst. Sec. .L W. BOW DEN, Med. Director. .1011 X HOPPER, Manas^er, Montreal. 8i American channel. This was formerly used by boats before they came down the Long Sault, which foi a long time was known as the lost channel. This channel having been lost for some years, it was discovered by Captain Rankin, who received for that service a magnificent silver watch, the value of which at the present day would be about $6.50. The first steamboat of this line that passed through the Long Sault, was the Passport, in 1848, and the pilot was W. H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the com- pany. The soundings were made by scows and rafts, with poles attached to the sides, of 8 to 15 feet in length, and as either of these met an obstruction and became dislodged or broken off, the depth of water was ascertained and a record made. The propelling power of these scows or rafts was oars or large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men on each, as the necessities of each required. The steamer Gill was the first boat through the rapids, and went down more by accident than otherwise, but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. Earnhardt's island on the left, 7^- miles in length by 4J- miles in width, belongs to the United States. On the right is the main land, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven miles belong to the United States. The King of Holland, who was the arbitrator of the treaty of 18 12, from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that the main channel of the river passed around that island on the left. He was mistaken, however ; this is the main channel of the river, and the only navigable one ; the Canadian channel containing only about 3^ or 4 feet of water. During the next eight minutes we pass three very sudden 82 turns in the river; the first turn is to the right ; then to the left ; next to the right again ; the second turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence river ; at direct angles turning to the left. Passengers on the left side of the boat, by looking backward, have a fine view of that portion of the river we have just passed, and looking forward see where we are compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness of the turn. Rafts entering the American channel at the foot of the Long Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty minutes, and are often thrown on shore on either side in making this sudden turn. After making our next turn to the right, by looking in the distance front, between the nar- row point, will discover what is known as " The Crab.'* The current crosses here from right to left, then left to right, and from right to left, forming the letter Z. Rafts get en- tangled in this portion of the river, and get easily torn to pieces. There is a ferryboat plys between this point, on the right Macenia point and Cornwall point on the left, touching at two places on Earnhardt's island, to convey passengers who are desirous of visiting Macenia Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power that revolves the wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse power boat; they convey the steam on board in a bag well filled with oats. The deck hand is the cook; the cook is the engineer; the engineer is the mate, and the mate is the cap- tain ; one man supreme command ; no mutiny ever occurs, unless the mule should kick the deck hand overboard — that would be " midity^' would it not ? On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel at the end of Earnhardt's island. Two miles below on the 83 right is the last of the American shore on the St. Lawrence, lat. 45 ° N. Some few years ago I was presented by Messrs. W. H. Merril& Co., 88 St. James St., Montreal, one of the dry goods firms in the city, with an American flag, fifteen feet in length, to designate the last of the United States shore on this river. Through the assistance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen dollars in cash. I succeeded in get- ting the flag in position. It remained there for about ten days when a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a res- ervation six miles distant the other side of the island, four of them came over to the point, filled themselves full of " ice water," climbed up the flag staff and took down the flag. They cut it up into three or four suits of clothes, and went around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled oyster, singing " Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up in the stars and stripes, full of fire-water. It was said to be the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no reason to doubt it. That portion of the river on the right is the dividing line for five miles. Afterwards an iron fence or posts, set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary line. The river passing around that way forms Cornwall island, about six miles wide. Rafts enter this portion of the river where the Racket river empties in, and are here refitted preparatory to being towed through the lake. Both sides of the river from this point downward, belong to the Dominion. In the distance, on the left, is Cornwall, a village of 5,000 people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills in the Dominion. Since the protective tariff was inaugurated by the Dominion Parliament these industries have thrived won- derfully, and the town is correspondingly prosperous. Just 84 before landing, a fine view is obtained of both the old and new Cornwall canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steamers are their present size and no longer. These steamers are the limit which the locks will admit, hence if they were five feet longer, or a trifle wider, they would be compelled to remain at Montreal, not being able to work through the locks. The new canal, which is alongside of the old one, will have locks IOC feet longer than the present one in use, consequently much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The old canal was considered amply large when built ; it was not supposed that the travel on the St. Lawrence would ever reach its present and constantly increasing numbers. After leaving Cornwall, on the right, is Cornwall island, 6 miles wide. Just beyond the island, on the right bank of the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian village, which cannot be seen from the deck of the steamer. But there is just one point where the church roof can be observed for a mo- ment or so. There is, however, a tradition worth relating here : The bell hanging in this church is associated with a deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from France it was captured by an English cruiser, and taken into Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to the church at Deerfield, in the same State. The Indians, hearing of the destination of their bell, set out for Deerfield, attacked the town killed forty-seven of the inhabitants, and took 112 captives, among whom was the pastor and his family. The bell was then taken down, and conveyed to St. Regis, where it now hangs. During the next lo miles of our trip, the river is beauti- fully studded with islands, and resembles the Thousand 85 Islands scenery very much. Many of these islands are in- habited ; some of them elegantly laid out with drives, etc. Rev Mr. Dickinson's, called after himself, has a dock, at which steamers of this size can land ; it has a hotel, num- ber of cottages, and is quite a gay place in Summer. On the left is Summers Town, beyond which is Hamilton's island. Just before reaching Summers Town is the resi- dence of Captain Cameron, of the Cultivature of this Hne ; beyond is the magnificent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron, the finest on the St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio free- stone, and cost $80,000. Hamilton island, on the left, is occupied every summer by camping parties who come from great distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and remain two, three, and even four months. Day after day, one of their principal amusements is rowing oat in their small boats, awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then swiftly riding on top of the swell that is occasioned by the wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and pictur- esque. On the right, we have now a fine view of the Adirondack Mountains of Northern New York, and beyond the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it be a smoky or misty day, when the view is sHghtly obscured. It is 56 miles from the river to the mountains, and intervening is the wilderness of the State of New York, known as the John Brown tract, more famous as the hunting ground of adven- turous gunning and fishing parties. Continuing our course we pass three small islands, and enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very pictur- esque sheet of water indeed, but the trip through the lake is quite monotonous, therefore for the next two hours the guide, as well as the passengers, can " take a rest." This 86 being a favorite route for honeymoon parties, there is now two fuU hours for these couples to enjoy the "honey" or the " moon " as seemeth to them best. After making this announcement one day, 53 left the deck, one, however, was an old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. BOYS ON A STEAMER. Here is a genuine. His parents are with him ; he can- not keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck or fall overboard, or to get crushed by the walking beam ; he has been twice dragged from the steps leading to the walking- beam, used by the assistant engineer for lubricating pur- poses ; he would hke to get in the paddle boxes, has talked every ofiicer on board to death, and is now trying his best to worry the deck hands. How curiously constructed is a real boy, to go whether he should not, and especiaily where his anxious mother most fears he will go ; he is now doing his best to spoil his parents trip. We can leave him for a moment ; he won't flag in his endeavor to get into trouble or to make his parents miserable. This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, but very active ; he, too, has with him an anxious mother ; he has found another boy— a strange boy, of the same size and sex ; they have become acquainted ; the strange boy is allowed by his parents to roam about the boat at will; he invites the nice little boy to roam also ; he wants him to roam as near the walking beam as possible ; he has roamed there himself before and escaped ;he tells the nice little boy how cunning it is to come near being crushed ; the nice little boy's mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks with disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy con- 87 tinues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice boy, together they can fool any one mother ; united they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges away from the side of his mother, for her energies are momentarily concen* trated on the set of her bonnet and the nice looking gentle- man at the other end of the saloon, who is taking side glances at her through the mirror. Now the nice boy gets farther away ; they are on the forbidden part of the deck, near the walking beam. It is great fun. Now the cross man, who keeps order on the deck, drives them away. They go to the newsboy and help themselves to anything on his table when he is not looking. They are now running in and out of the staterooms, in everybody's way ; it is a won- der they haven't been killed twenty times. It is great fun for the boys, but almost death to the passengers. And the mother is still so occupied with her bonnet, and the dude who has made a mash or favorable impression upon her, that she has not missed her nice little boy. In the centre of the lake, on the left, is the village of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before reaching the village, what appears to be a stack of hay, but what is commonly known throughout Scotland as a Cairn. It is no more or less than a heap of stones in a rounded or coni- cal form, placed in that way to commemorate some especial historic event. This one was built by the Glengarry High- landers, in 1847, to perpetuate the memory of Sir John Col- burn, who was Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Gov- ernor-General of the Province. It was built by putting cobble-stones one on top of the other — each individual in- habitant or stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 88 a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and one will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn, this was done by placing stones one upon the other until it reached the height of 20 feet. They are placed in a conical form, and reaches the height of 20 feet. The county in which this place is located is named Glengarry,and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited by the sturdy Scotch highlanders, whose farms are the finest in the Dominion. This is the last EngHsh speaking village on the route. Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette on the right, a small French town. We are now approaching the boundary line between the provinces of Ontario and Que- bec. The lighthouses on either side show the geographical divisions. From the lighthouse on the left, the line runs straight to the Ottawa river ; then the Ottawa becomes the dividing Hne. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique ; next Coteau landing, where we call for the purpose of takmg on a pilot. EDWARD WILLETT, whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the next series of rapids. We are coming to four rapids. First, the Coteau ; second, Cedar : third. Split Rock, and fourth, the Cascades. On the extreme right, at the foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. It is at the head of the Beau- hornias canal, 1 1^ miles in length, which passes around this series of rapids. The river is 11^ miles, has a fall of 84 feet. The finest water-power privilege on the continent of America, except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cot- ton mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Co.'s mill, and 89 several other manufacturing establishments are located at Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter the river. With our pilot we go down the small rapid known as the Coteau, passing Prisoner's island on the left, and on the left bank is the old French village of Coteau du Lac. On the extreme left at the point is an old French fort, where battles were fought in 1812 and 18 13; the earthworks are still in" a good state of preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point to the Cedar rapids, then you will see der Rapid that is a Rapid, the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids, opposite the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar rapid is the finest upon the St. Law- rence River. Look at St. Timothy, bear in mind the view you had of Morrisburg ; the impression of its beauty and thrift, and now you have the compariso». How does the former strike you as against the latter ? It is a historic fact, and worthy of note, that no matter what town you arrive at in the province of Quebec, this will be apparent to the eye ; the finest buildings in the place will be the church, nunnery, school, hospital or priest's residence. Aside from these, the rest are all about alike. You cannot tell the palace resi- dence from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating ca- pacity of 1,500; the population of the village is 600; the church is always full on Sundays, and as Mark Twain ex- claimed, " What large domes these worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capable of seating 1,500." But they come from all the country around, being all of one persuasion. An opposition church is so far un- konwn in these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what 90 the extraordinary power of this old church must be in the lower province. Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the amount of money collected by them from the poor to build and maintain their institutions, I asked him how it was, and he remarked that the millions have more money than the millionaires, and by getting the dollar from the poorer classes they had the million, which the milhonaires never give up. Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the Cedar rapid, and pass a distance of three and one-half miles in the extraordinary short time of seven minutes. By casting your eye shoreward, while passing an island on the left, and just before we enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will dis- cover how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you will see Hell's hole, and the greatest commotion in the river from Kingston to the Gulf. Leaving Cedar rapid which is the most picturesque and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one-half miles further along, and passing Bockey Hayes' shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the river, making naviga- tion somewhat dangerous. In illustration : one day the steamer Corsican suddenly lurched to the left, and evidently struck a rock, whereupon the captain said to the pilot, ^' Edward, you are a little too far over to the left." Before lie could complete the sentence, the boat lurched to the right and struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, "yes, and a Httle too far over to the right side." It is plain that the channel about here is at least precarious. The govern- ment engineers, however, are now at work removing these dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you see in the ilistance, on poles about ten feet high, are the marks which 91 enable the pilot to obtain his true bearings through the shoal. Turning to the right we come in sight of the Split Rock rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When we speak of danger, we don't mean to Hfe or limb, as no per- son was ever injured on this rapid; it is danger to property that we refer to, as this is the only one of the series that has cost the company one dollar. They lost one steamboat here, and have had others upon the rocks. On the 8th of July, 1874, the steamer Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., when passing the Split Rock rapid, was almost instantly en- veloped by a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hur- ricane. The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, as she should, the wind caused her to go straight ahead, and we struck a rock forward about five feet high and passed fifteen feet aft of the wheel over the same, and then stopped. I was upon the right hand side of the boat explaining to the passengers and showing or pointing out to them the ledge of rock when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught hold of me (whom they thought was the boss life preserver). What a position tor a nice young man. I was about to ex- claim as my friend A. Ward did when he was surrounded by 20 of Brigham Young's wives, " I hope your intentions are honorable." However, through the assistance of some friends, I procured life preservers for them and was released from my somewhat precarious position. ' In the space of an hour most of the passengers were landed by the aid of the ship's boats and batteaus from the shore, and proceeded by rail to Montreal, where they arrived the same evening. I remained on board all night until a derrick was erected and two of the boats lashed together, and a platform built upon them, when I was let down by the aid of the derrick 92 upon the same, and without further trouble taken to shore in safety. The second Hne of white-caps which you see in the distance in front, is the SpHt Rock, a ledge of rock running from shore to shore, with the exception of a break of about sixty feet, which is a natural split in the rock. Formerly there was only a depth of nine feet of water ; it was blasted out, and now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on the right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have been talk- ing about. One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the last of this series of four, and the last but one on the river — the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs from all the rest, being a cutting, chopping sea, in which the boats are wrenched more than in any other rapid. On the right is the village of ^Melocheville, at the foot of the Beauhor- nois canal, eleven and one-half miles in length, that passes around this line of rapids. The boats of this and all other lines are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of them could ascend this Hne of rapids. We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four miles by land from Montreal. In the distance, in front is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain The park mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, is up the brow of this mountain through a park. On the left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels of the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. Anns, where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat song. A resident of St. Anns, Lieutenant- Colonel Dowker, says, that every spring the freshets of the Ottawa cause the water to comedown into the St. Lawrence with such force as to cause an eddy to pass up the point of 93 the island and pass down the navigable channel of the Ot- tawa, and he can take a pail from his house, Chateau Blanc (where the famous poet Moore resided, while at St. Anns, and wrote his Canadian poems), proceed down to the river and dip up a pail of pure clear St, Lawrence water. Meeting Col. Dowker this spring, he told me that the fresh- ets of the Ottawa in March and April, 1885, were the most alarming and disastrous ever known. The sudden break- ing up of the ice caused a jam. Houses were moved from their foundation, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the ice and many drowned ; the ice piled mountains high. The government has an agent in the vicinity relieving the dis- tressed inhabitants. The oldest church in the upper pro- vince and old forts are to be seen here. On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into the St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel; the navigable portion of the river is just the other side of II Perot. Note the difference between the color of the two waters; they are as wide apart as green is from purple. The water of the Ottawa is of a dark brown color, caused by passing over low, marshy peat bed soils, and the huge forests through which this river passes, the leaves falling and rotting, and swept along by the freshets doubtless dye the water to the peculiar color observable. The waters of the two rivers do not readily mix, and each are distinct for many miles. In the distance is Lake St. Louis or Lachine Lake, 15 miles from the rapids to the foot of the lake, where we arrive at Lachine on the left, and Caughnawaga on the right. The latter is the residence of the Indian pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who takes this line of boats down the La- chine rapids. 94 About half way through the lake on the right we come to Nun's island. That mound or elevation of ground which you see, was a fort in 1812, and English and American war-like parties met in sanguinary contest around here. It commands the entrance to the Chateaugay River. 1 he vil- lage of Chateaugay is about 6 miles back. The Nun's island belongs to the Grey nuns, of Montreal, who have a hospital for their own sick, and the spot is marked by a large cross emblematic of their order. Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of Caughna- waga where we take on board the Indian pilot, who has be- come of historical interest to tourists, as it was he who dis- covered the channel and took the first of this line down August 19, 1840, and has been in the employ of the com- pany ever since. He is 70 years old, weighs 240 pounds and stands 6 feet high. Many of the passengers imagine he is the only pilot who can take a boat through the La- chine rapids. This is not correct, for we have other pilots who can, but as he is paid for this especial service, they re- sign most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an ac- cident, and the company believe in holding to that which is good, and therefore, " stick to the old man." He will emerge from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his two sons. They row him to the steamers, he comes on board, and the boys row home again. He remains on board till the next morning, take the first train for Lachine, where he is met by the boys, who take him home in the row-boat. The Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste De Lisle ; his Indian name, Ta-ya-ka, meaning in the U. S. language that "he will cross the river," but does not ; he goes down the rapids. He has a family of six children, three boys and 95 three girls. The girls are unmarried. I state this for the benefit of the young men on board, as the Indian pilot says he wants a " heap Yankee " for his girls. I am engaged to> my Mary Jane and they can't have me. Here the Indian pilot comes on board, a description of Caughnawaga would not be amiss. Note the line of pala- tial residences along the bank beyond the church, the win- dows and doors kicked out to give them light and air. The palace gardens in the front part of the back end of the house. The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ;. it is not wash day to-day as you can perceive. The bath- house is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The water-works is that barrel on the shore. That fair damsel,, waving her lily white hand, is Mary Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day to welcome me, as she thinks I am on board. You can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same as I have had for years, and not make me jealous. That large brick structure is the centennial building, built during the centennial year by the celebrated Indian Chief, White Kicker. I think they use him to kick the windows and doors out of the palatial residences previously spoken of. Caughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my friend Ben Butler says, they spell it with an e), is well laid out for an Indian village, with a population of 900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. The finest crops raised in this section of the country are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of no use until it is. This notable quarry is where most of the stone comes from for the construction of the locks in the new Lachine canal. The entrance of which is at Lachine, the village just past at the foot of the lake on the left. 96 THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE, is a favorite resort for ]\Iontrealers in summer. The in- habitants nmiiber about 2,000, but it is frequently augment- ed in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note the large build- ings, which are the church, Villa de Mc^ria Convent, the School and University for the education of priests. Our Indian pilot being on board, he will now show his Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the St. Lawrence. We re-enter the river, and in a few minutes enter the Lachine rapids. Before reaching the rapids, the tourist can see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal with water. THE LACHINE RAPIDS differ from all the rest, it is simply an intricate channel through rock. Take your position upon either side of the boat and you will know when we come to the most im- portant point, as the boat will be pointed direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor less than few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and you will be led to exclaim, why are we going to strike the island, and if you are a betting person or a truthful one you would almost swear we could not help but strike, but when within less than ten feet we make a very sudden turn to the right, with a grand picth or lurch in which you will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect minature Niagara ; a little water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the 97 lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause you any uneasiness as there is no danger, because a side-wheel boat has guards on the sides from four to ten feet, projecting over on each side from the hull, 60 or 90 feet long, so that when that flat surface strikes the water by lurching that is as far as she can go, therefore, will always righten herself immediately. I have had a great deal of sport in this way, when the boat had lurched over as far as she could, I would immediately exclaim : '' Oh ! I am on the wrong side," and proceed to the high side, when the boat would immediately righten up and all the passengers would think I did it, but she would have rightened without my aid. This is the last rapid built on the St. Lawrence, you can have it the best one if you Hke and I will not quarrel with you for it, all I ask you to do is to stop at the hotels who advertise in my book and tell them I was the cause, and if they do not treat you well, I will proceed to sit down upon them, and they will never have occasion to treat anyone else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids a first view of Montreal on the left, and on the right is the village of La Prairie. The first mountain on the left is Mount Bruno ; second, Belleisle ; the third, St. Pie. The next, and last sensation on the trip is passing under VICTORIA BRIDGE,_ the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, was built by Mr. Stepenson, in i860, for the Grand Trunk Rail- road, by which it is owned and controlled. It is a mile and three-quarters of iron, two miles and a quarter with its ap- proaches from shore. It is wholly of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tunnel, or box, as it were. There are twenty- 98 FAMOUS FOR ONE-THIRD OF A CENTURY THE ST. LAMEiCE HALL, NIONTREAL. Is SO arranged that rooms used for guests are onlv one flight above the GRAND OLD PARLORS, which are just one flight of stairs from St. James street. This item of rooms bek)W the cknids, with plenty of light and air, is worthy of attention. THE ST. LAWRENCE HALL Occupies a frontage on St. James street 180 feet, on vSt. Francois Xavier street 146 feet, on Craig street 180 feet, and on St. George street 110 feet, in the verv heart of the citv. opposite the new Post Oflice. Thus From $2 to $5 is Saved from Hack Hire Alone. The only first-class hotel located within one mile of the post office and all the public buildings. Its table nneqiialled by any in the Do- minion. Satisfaction guaranteed to every patron. No ostentations display, but all the solid comforts of a home. Only one block from the French Cathedral. Two blocks from Tictoria Square. Only two blocks from the Theatre Royal. Within Two blocks of all the Business and Dry Goods Palaces. The nearest first-class hotel to the depots and steam boat landings. Every place worthy of note to the tourist is within fifteen minutes walk'of the St. Lawrence Hall, except those you see in your Park Mountain Drive. Tiiis hotel was the home of all royal and notable personages who visited Montreal for thirty years. It lias all the mod- ern improvements, Elevator, Gas and Electric Lights, Hot and Cold Water, p]lectric Bells. Rooms En-Suite, with Bath and Chx'^ets on every floor. Spacious, clean and well ventilated rooms. The best beds of any hotel in the city. The prices are graduate*!. All under the i>ersonal supervision of MR. HENRY HOGAN. 99 four abutments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice fields that pass through this section, which, previous to the building of the bridge, did immense damage to Mon- treal during the spring freshets. There is no such thing as freshets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa flowing in some Iniles above, causing such disasters) upon which rest the sec- tions of iron. These spans are from 250 to 360 feet long each, and the centre span is about 60 feet high. The bridge tubes are 16x22 feet. It contains no wagon road or foot- path, and is used by the G. T. R. and its connecting hues. The cost of this immense work was $6,250,000, about one- half of which amount went to fatten the contractors. I was not one of them. I mention this on account of my size, and for fear some one would think I was wealthy. The bridge is constructed of sheets of iron with a two-inch edge turned up and rivited to each other. It is fastened to the centre, loose on both ends on rollers, and is provided with a sliding track, so that there is no danger by expansion or contraction to passing trains. It expands and contracts from three and one-half to seven inches. The bridge is kept in thorough repair and well painted. The small holes, or per- forations, in the sides of the bridge were origmally intended to convey the smoke out, but found inadequate for that pur- pose, they caused to be erected last spring a line of flues the whole length. Now if any smoke remains, it is carried out in a hand basket. The two movable scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in repairing and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and as we pass under the center span, and not over it, you need not remove your hat if you remain on the deck. After passing under the bridge you will have a magnificent view of MONTREAL HARBOR. The points of interest in the harbor will all be described to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, a very danger- ous passage, previous to landing at the Quebec boat where we transfer such passengers as desire to visit Quebec. The island you see front on the right, is St. Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. A ferry plys between the city and island every half hour, from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday ftom 3,000 to 20,- 000 persons visit the island, mostly French Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprises the population of Montreal. In the distant front on the left is the oldest church in Mon- treal ; to the left of that, the largest building with the dome, is the Bonseccour Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is that large building in the rear with the dome in the centre and four columns one in each corner. Across the road to the left, that long building is the Court House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square is a magnificent col- umn erected to the memory af Lord Nelson. At the foot of the square lies a steamer of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company. There are two steamers on this line, notably, the Mo?it7-eal and Quebec. This company own twenty-one side wheel boats. The Quebec fine has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence River ; they will compare favorably with the boats of the Sound or the Hud- son River — triple-decked palace boats, built of Bessemer steel ; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line is only $2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. Be- yond, on the left, the two massive towers you see belong to- the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a Cathedral, but simply a parish church. (The Cathedral is on Domin- ion Square, in process of erection, and when complete, will be one half the size of St. Peters at Rome). It is the larg- est on the continent, and has contained within its walls front porch and stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's day), twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom House, with the clock in the tower, and still further up the examining warehouse of the Custom House, as well as the office, docks and steamers of the Allen line. The first stop is at Quebec boat ; passengers for Montreal remain on ■deck, as" this Hne is compelled to enter the first lock in the Lachine canal ; the gates close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises the boat to the level of the lock when the passengers are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial metropoHs of the Dominion, with a population of 150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. The docks, piers, wharfs, etc , of Montreal are the finest on the continent. It is the second city of commercial import- ance — New York being first. Six steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe during the summer season and a large amount of business must of a necessity be done, as its channel is closed during five months of the winter. The water front is all lighted with the electric light, so that work is carried on during the summer months night and day. Having selected your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty will be to see the sights of MONTREAL. It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two great rivers of the I02 Delaware & Hudson C, Co's -SlJL.XlL,TtOJ^lD. SARATOGA LINE. Twenty-Eight Miles the Shortest Route between Montreal and New York. The Only Line to Saratoga, Lake George, and Lake Champiain. The Most Direct Route to Troy, Albany, New York, Philadelphia, and All Points South and East. Passengers 1)y this Route, during the Siuumer Season, may exchange their tickets for those reading '•Through I^ake ('liaiiiplalii nnd Liako Georjre, via the Champiain Transportation Coinpaiiy's Steam- ers," affording them an opportunity of viewing some of the Finest SceiK'ry in America. Wagner's Elegant Drawing Room and Sleeping Cars Run via This Route. The Through Mail and Express for New York carried over this Line. Dur- ing the Season of Navigation, close connection made at Troy and Albany, with day and night boats on the Hudson River for New York. Information given and Tickets sold at the Grand Trunk Ticket Offices, and at the Company's (Office. 1 43 St. James Street, Montreal. J. W. BURDICK, CHARLES C. McFALL, General Passenger Agent, Albany. Agent, Montreal. I03 North, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. The island is about thirty-two miles in length, and at its widest some ten in breadth ; it is so fertile as to be called the garden of the Province. The surface of the land is level with the ex- ception of the eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the city which lies at its base. The settlement of the town was originally determined by the first explorer, Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian village, Hoche- laga, occupied the spot. The permanent founding of the place, however, did not occur until L642, and in one hundred years of growth thereafter it gathered a population of 4,000. It was under French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in a population of but 30,000. In April, 1849, a pofitical mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which were erected on McGill street, and the seat of Government was, in conse- quence, transferred to Quebec, thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it remains. In July, 1852, a de- structive fire laid waste a large portion of the city, burning no houses, and consuming property valued at $1,400,000. Notwithstanding these reverses the city recovered, and to- day numbers a population of 150,000. Years of industry and enterprise have produced growth and improvement in Montreal, such as but few American cities can boast of, and perhaps but one — Chicago — has exceeded. At the beginning of the present century vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and barges. Now ocean steam- ships of over 4,000 tons, the floating palaces of the Riche- I04 lieu and Ontario Navigation Company, and ships of from 700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled on this con- tinent in point of substantial construction, convenience and cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the river, has narrow, incommodious streets ; but the new growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been Hberally laid out, with wide and cheerful thoroughfares. The architecture here is very fine ; the material chiefly used is a zinc-colored ■ lime-stone, extensively quarried three miles from the city. The pubHc buildings, banks, and principal warehouses are solid and handsome enough to adorn a European capital. The great wealth of the Roman Cathohc Church has ena- bled it to erect many magnificent churches, hospitals and convents, always in a very massive and enduring style. Other denominations seem to have been excited by emula- tion, and vie with each other in the beauty and elegance of their places of worship. Among the evidences of the French origin of the city are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be found Hngering here and there about Jacques Cartier Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the river front. These old houses are built some- what Hke fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars, wherein treasure might be stored or a defence made against hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites, French and British were fighting and plundering each other. The French Canadians in the city, continue still to be a little more than half the population, and, although their language here has not been unaftected by the constant intercourse with English-speaking people, it is not, as commonly sup- posed, a patois, but such French as was spoken by the I05 polite and educated in France, when the emigrants who iirst settled Canada, left the shore of their mother-land. The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after saints and holy things reminds one that its founders were not exiles nor adventurers but enthusiastic missionaries. PLACES OF INTEREST. The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief thoroughfare of this city, opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall. The reason I use the word new may be asked. Well, the hotel has been newly re-fitted, the corner building purchased, one hundred elegant and commodious rooms added, with baths and closets, electric bells and elevators, etc., etc. The old proprietor, Mr. Henry Hogan, pro- nounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord in the Dominion, has assumed the proprietorship and has associ- ated with him as manager, Mr. Samuel Montgomery, the best choice that could be made^ as he is an American from the Pacific slope, where they know how to keep a hotel. I therefore cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new St. Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal. Start- ing from there, it being the centre, every point of interest is within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first building to the left is the new Post Office, recently finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every internal improve- ment which modern ingenuity has devised. Adjoining it is the Bank of Montreal, in the Corinthian style of architec- ture, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the arts and trade. The corporation occupying this noble building is the richest one of the kind in America. It has branches io6 in every town of importance in the Dominion, and has offi- ces in New York, Chicago and London. It issues letters of credit on all parts of the world. Its capital and reserve fund amount to $18,000,000. Adjoining the Bank of Montreal is the Canada Pacific Railroad office, a simple soHd struc- ture in the Doric style. Crossing the street a Httle above the corner on the right hand side is S8 St. James street, where W. H. Merrill & Co., have opened a new store for the sale of silks, velvets, laces, gloves, silk underwear and hoisery, they were formerly on Notre Dame street, but are now es- tablished at 88 St. James street, where they would be glad to meet their old customers and as many new ones. Other banks having their offices on Place d'Arms are the Jacques Cartier, Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. On the south side of the square the great parish church of Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast Norman edifice are 225 feet in length, and is 134 feet in width. Its towers are 220 feet high ; the western one contains the larg- est bell in America, " Gros Bourdon," in weight 29.400 pounds. The seating capacity of the church is 10.000. It has recently been decorated in deep colors and gold, after the manner of the St. Chapelle at Paris. Suspended over the western gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense wooden crucifix. This was brought from France two cen- turies ago, and was first set up in the church built on the ground now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the venerable Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, courtyard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary originally held valuable rights atiecting the entire island of Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in their hands. With the wealth thus brought to their cofters they have lib- I07 erally established and conducted many institutions of charity and education scattered throughout the city. We are now on Notre Dame street, the chief retail street in Montreal. Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame church, on the left hand side of the street, you arrive at No. 1 69 1, where is located the Snow Shoe Cafe, managed by W. H. H. Murray, of Adirondack fame, who invites you to call and inspect his goods. Opposite is R. Sharpley & Sons, which will well repay a visit. A little above on the left, is 1 67 1, J. & E. McEntyre, merchant tailors. They make all my clothes, therefore, if they can fit me further comments are unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & Co. Let us go on we shall soon arrive at the Court House, a fine Grecian building, of simple and massive appearance. A few steps further on the right brings us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief the various victories which the great naval hero won without the loss of a single British ship. This monument is in Jacques Cartier square, at the foot of which is the wharf of the Quebec steamers. Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the mon- ument, we find opposite to each other two buildings which form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of French architecture ; facing it is the " old chateau," a structure probably thought very fine a century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in it the first printing press ever used in the city. Now the old place is a Normal School, and the discoveries of the illustrious American is explained there, and let us hope his witty sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques Cartier Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial io8 Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, we may- see a little of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in their home-spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs or butter with many queer words and phrases now almost forgotten in the Normandy whence they were first brought. Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, a rough-cast building with a high-pitched roof, and with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by cobblers and cake shops. This church is the oldest Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance is at the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some worshippers from the adjacent market, who bring in, without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Sus- pended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, on the water-front, we note the ships and steamers from Liverpool, ■Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam and other ports : and on the right successively pass the Custom House, a triangu- lar building, with a clock tower ; the office of the Allan Line, also having a clock ; and the fine building of the Har- bor Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, with external hoist-ways from top to bottom, this is the Cus- toms Examining Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, we shall glance backward at the street from Allan's office to the Custom House. Taking a short journey, still upon the river- front, we come to the great works of stone masonry, which give to Mon- treal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that vessels of much greater tonnage than the ones at present used may be em- ployed in the grain trade. This enterprise is one of a series of canal im])rovements by which Canada strives to retain and increase its business as a highway for the shipment of western jiroduce to the sea-board. I09 Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running up from the city, McGill, and mark the fine warehouses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., who invite you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six or seven stores in succession, which you are invited to inspect, and I am positive you will be as favorably impressed as I was. Retracing our steps back to McGill street, we turn to the right, and immediately in front, just one block is Victoria Square, which contains a statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. James street opposite, on the left is the Albert Buildings. Turning to the right we enter St. James street, the first building of note, on the right is the Ottawa Buildings, on the left is J. J. Milloy^ the Tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are a specialty, a little further on the right is G. W. Clark, The Souvenir Palace, and a little above is Drysdale & Co., where any re- ligious book may be had, Seaside Library, stationery, etc. On our way to the Post Office from whence we started, we come to 219, "Alexanders," the confectioner, the Huyler of Canada. At the corner of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' Institute. This building contains a good Hbrary, the admis- sion fee to which is only nominal ; and a very good reading- room, having on its tables the principal dailies of America,, the London Times, the Glasgow Herald, the DubHn Warder, the Edinburgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies, monthlies,, and quarterlies of both England and the United States. Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, for the period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. Hogan, the pro- prietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants'^ no Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished granite columns at the entrance ; the interior of this bank should be seen ; the main office is carried up two stories in height, and is beautifully frescoed. Diagonally across the street is IVIolson's Bank, also of Italian design, and richly decorated. We are now nearly at the hotel again, where we may con- clude for the present our inspection of the city. Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind us the business streets, and take our way to the upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, take St. James street to the first crossing on the right as you leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two blocks this street changes its name to Bleury street. (When if you find you are foot sore you can turn to the left, to the end of the block on Craig street No. 1722, where is located the celebrated Surgeon Chiropodist, Prof. Harris, who will attend to any trouble of the feet, that will be sure to make your walk a pleasant one, provided you are like me, suttering from corns, bunions or ingrowing nails.) At No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's studio, a large handsome building entirely devoted to pho- tographic art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleas- antly in looking over views of Canadian scenery, and por- traits taken singly, or skillfully grouped, representing the sports and pastimes of our winter. The chief of these pictures is that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria Skating Rink, seven years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Ar- thur was present. This photographic marv^el, with others now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted great attention and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. Mr. Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and re- ceived its highest awards. Ill Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach on the left the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit fathers. This church is modeled after one of the same name at Rome, where the remains of Loyola are entombed. The style of architecture is the round Roman arch. The interior is one of the most beau- tiful among American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco of the crucifixion. In the southern transept the suf- ferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, we shall continue on Bleury street until we come to St. Catharine street. A few steps brings us to the Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, decorated in such a lovely manner as to lead one to suppose that it was done to encourage the suffering inmates of the asylum to see. The next building on the side of the street (No. 1077,) is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly monu- ment of wealth and munificence, containing all the modern appliances for the practical training of youth, and presided over by an able staff of professors. If we keep going east- ward on St. Catherine street, we pass on St. Dennis street, the immense parish church of St. James, with the tallest spire" in the city. Near by the new church which is dedi- cated to Notre Dame de Lourdes ; water and relics from her shrine at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the base- ment. Adjoining the church are its conventual buildings. Returning on St. Catharine street, we soon come to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of gothic architecture in Canada. It is of cruciform design; its extreme width is 100 feet. 112 The spire, which is entirely of stone, rises to a height of 224 feet. The materials of construction are Montreal lime- stone and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter, by exposure to the weather, has changed from almost pure whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the cathe- dral are erected the residences of the bishop and his assist- ants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to Bishop Fulford, the first MetropoHtan of Canada. The street run- ning on the farther side of the cathedral is University street, and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural History Museum, containing a good Canadian collection. Univer- sity street leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner of which is the St. James Club House. Taking Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St. Paul's church (Pres- byterian). On the same side we soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new Roman Catholic Cathedral, in course of construction. Across the square on which St. Peters is building, we no- tice a beautiful church, St. Georges (Church of England), and adjoining it is its Sunday school, the largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorchester street, fronting Do- minion Square, on Peel street, is the Windsor Hotel. Next beyond on Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, where immense carnivals are held in the winter, the grand- est in the world ; in the summer the spacious edifice is used for concerts, walking matches, public gatherings, meetings, etc. Two blocks distant is the Foundling Hospital of the Gray Nun — a visit to which is thus described : A long pro- cession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel and knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a string of beads attached, and whatever may have been the case with 113 their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstanding strangers were gazing at them. Some were young and pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred character of their labor of love invested them all with beauty. We said the eyes of none wandered. Perhaps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp glance of one, apparently younger than the others, stared us for a moment ; but -it was only curiosity — womanly curiosity — and what woman has not the curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruitful of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise in her place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the heavy battle- axe in heroic deeds that they might win recognition from the proud ladies who looked down upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which men of this nineteenth century might do, would be to rescue young and pretty nuns — who wanted to be rescued from the silence and sadness of the nunnery. We are now arrested by an immense structure even larger than the institution just passed ; it is the Montreal college, which educates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, and is under the care of the Sulpician fathers. The two Martello towers in front of the college are reUcs of the times when incessant strife raged between the settlers and the Indians. Sherbrooke Street is adorned with the private residences for which the citizens of Montreal are proud, and in your drive around the town, previous to or after re- turning from your Park Mountain drive, it will repay one to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. The McGill College, University and spacious grounds are the next points. 114 As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance we observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large bright dome, a free hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direction. Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver Hall Hill, we slmll not fail to be struck by the number of hand- some churches erected there together. On the right is the Unitarian church, on the left, successively a Presbyterian, Baptist, and Jewish synagogue. Near by on Craig street, is a towered building occupied by the Young Men's Chris- tian Association. "We are soon at the New St. Lawrence Hall, and before mentioning the drives that may be taken outside the city, it may be well to call attention to a few places near at hand a business man or a student may be interested in visiting : The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John street, the Merchants' Exchange, St. Sacrament street, the office of the Telegraph Co., and the Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily from lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of North Amer- ican minerals, and many interesting fossils. Here may be seen, what many geologists regard as the most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon Ca?iaddense^ first noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that the oldest fossil-bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the back- bone, geographically, of Canada, and because of the great variety of rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Mon- treal, this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this col- 115 lection, and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to Ottawa. I ofifer this as an apology in case it should be removed. DRIVES. As I have said two or three times, by far the most pleas- ant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two roads : the shorter returns by McTavish street, the other by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, [the designer of Central Park, New York, whose achievements there were recognized by a statue adorning one of the entrances. The river view from Mount Royal is delightful, and must be seen to be appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. A suggestion of how to get a ^hundred pictures of every conceivable shape or form of landscape views, containing mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to close the eye, place the hands on each end of the forehead, and every time the carriage moves a hundred feet open the eyes and you have an entire new picture. Keep this up until you have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive is around the mountain, and was the best until the completion of the Park Mountain drive ; it is pleasant and attractive when it includes a drive to the Catholic and Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives us an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us through the village of Hoch- elaga, the termmus of the new railroad, the Quebec, Mon- treal, Ottawa and Occidental, which runs along the north shore of the St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country ii6 as yet unbenefitted b)' the iron horse. About a mile from the depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies from the United States have been educated at this convent. The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This immense house containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots and imbeciles, is controlled by the sisters of Providence ; these ladies, with the exception of six guardians for desperate characters, and a physician, have sole charge. They find no trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, and by their kindness and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases were cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in the old days when the insane were treated with harshness and cruelty. On our way to Longue Point, the villages of Longueuil, Boucherville and Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The drive to the Black river is an at- tractive one, and with citizens the most popular of all ; the beautiful convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place^a branch of the Ottawa — affords one of the characteristic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from $100.- 000 to $300,000, the excitement of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with the constant perils threaten- ing the whole structure, all conjoin to make up a scene to be dwelt upon and long remembered. Thus hoping the same will be said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise all to visit QUEBEC. Tourists can take either the Grand Trunk, the North Shore, or the Richelieu »S: Ontario Navigation Go's Hne of 117 •steamers. Tickets can be procured of the Company's agent opposite the New St. Lawrence Hall building, where state- rooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that the river is the route selected, and that the reader is fairly on his way to that ancient city and former capital. Passing a group of islands below Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa river, we soon arrive at SOREL, forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the steam- er. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 1755, by M. De Tracy and was for many years the summer residence of many successive Governors of Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the river is called LAKE ST. PETER, which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis river enters here. Large rafts are observed here slowly floating to the great mart at Quebec. THREE RIVERS is situated at the confluence of the River St. Maurice and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded in 16 18, It is well laid out and contains many good buildings, among which are the Court House, the Goal, the Roman CathoHc Church, the Ursuline Convent, the Enghsh and Wesleyan churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. ii8 BATISCAN is situated on the north shore of the river, one-hundred and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place the steamers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a place of lit- tle importance. In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, gen- erally made up of small buildings, the better class of which are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prom- inent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires of the Cathohc churches, which are all constructed in that unique style of architecture so pecuhar to that church. During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis Hotel^ and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish the same. This was made necessary in order to stop the imposition that is practiced by out-side parties. CITY OF QUEBEC. Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequalled scenery, is no ordinary or common-place city, for though, like other large communities, it carries on trade, commerce and manu- factures ; cultivates art, science and literature ; abounds in charities, and professes special regard to the amenities of social life, it claims particular attention as being a striking- ly unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in fact, the Key of the Province. Viewed from any of its ap- proaches, it impresses the stranger with the conviction of strength and permanency. The reader of American his- 119 tory, on entering its gates or wandering over its squares, ramparts and battle fields, puts himself at once in commun- ion with the illustrious dead. The achievements of daring mariners, the labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died in the assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most smil- ing forms, will find in and around it an afiluence of sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science, too, may be equally gratified, for here the great forces of nature and secret alchemy may be studied with advantage. Quebec can never be a tame or insipid place, and with moderate opportunities for advancement, it must become one of the greatest cities of the New World in respect to learning, art, commerce and manufactures. The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- plain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to fifty souls. In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12th of Sep t- tember took place the celebrated battle of the Plains of Abraham, which resulted in the death of Wolfe, and the de- feat of the French army. A force of 5,000 EngHsh troops, under General Murray, were left to garrison the fort. The city is very interesting to a stranger; it is the only walled city in North America. Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives its name from the quantity of crystal mixed with the granite below its surface. The fortress includes the whole space on the Cape. : w PC w > o o ^; OC oc 01 X d PI r (/5 > > c Q X u < 145 volumes, accessible to guests ; the location is fifth Avenue, Thirty-Second and Thirty -Third streets, New York. The leap into public favor of this popular hotel during the past year is astounding. The Adelphi Hotel. — This new, comfortable and petite hotel is located on Broadway, contains one hundred rooms, is convenient to the springs, etc., etc. Its piazza is elevated one story above the street and commands a splendid view up and down Broadway, as well as Phila street opposite. The proprietor, Mr. Wm. H. McCaffrey, is too well known to the traveling community to need one word from me, and the gentlemen connected with the office and other depart- ments of the house, are too well qualified by being the choice of the proprietor, to need commendation. It is " my home " when in Saratoga ; that is all I have to say against it. It is the universal opinion of tourists, that no watering place on the continent, of like size, can compare with the unwearying charms of Saratoga. The hotel arrivals some days are upwards of one thousand. One might become almost tired of the world and vote every other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, Saratoga atmos- phere and Saratoga life would still charm by its ever pleas- ing peculiarities. Mount McGregor, the place selected above all others for its pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for our hero. Gen. U. S. Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on June 17th, 1885, (during my stay for health), so I had the pleasure of seeing the old veteran while he was being con- veyed to the Mount McGregor R. R., which ascends to the top of the mountain, where visitors can go almost every hour and get a view that will well repay them. I left Sara- toga on the morning of the 19th June, and was informed 146 Congress •» Spring. THE STANDARD MINERAL WATER CATHARTIC, ALTERATIVE, a Specific for Disorders of the STOMACH, LIVER and KIDNEYS, ECZEMA, MALARIA, and all IMPURITIES of the BLOOD. So enviable a name has this famous Mineral Water that the managers of inferior Mineral Springs, desu-ous of imitating the natm-al purity of the bottled water of Congress Spring, inject a powerful acid in their bottled water to preserve the crude ingredients in solution — being so heavily laden with LIME AND IRON DEPOSIT. With such contrivances, bogus testimonials and Aoctored analysis cards they seek to.rival the pure Medicinal Waters of Congress Spring. The regular season visitors to Saratoga fully imderstand these crude, harsh waters, many of them after painful experiences. In proof of tliis we can Produce a GREAT ::?1AIVY RESPONSIBLE NAITIES. But the Saratoga visitors without experience, and many who use the bottled waters (often labelled as curatives for disorders which they positively aggravate), should remember that crude, harsh Mineral Waters produce headache, a sense of burning and internal irritiition, and do irre- parable injury to the digestive organs and kidneys. CONGRESS -WATF.Tt, PURE, NATURAL AND RELIABLE. NONE GENUINE SOLD ON DRAUGHT. For sale by Druggists, Grocers, Wine Merchants and Hotels. BOTTLE " C " :»IARK. 147 by the conductor of the Mt. McGregor R. R. that General Grant rested well the previous night, and slept ten hours. It is a fact and worthy of note here, that for the past three. years there has not been one day during the months of July or August, but they have had a heavy frost on Mount Mc- Gregor. I can vouch for the truthfulness of this item be- cause I know him. He is the conductor of the train on the Mt. McGregor R. R., weighs 280 pounds and his name is. Frost. Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants, and in the summer season every private house is turned into a boarding house of one or the other class, and therefore boarding houses abound — no space to mention all of them here. The Windsor Hotel, Saratoga. — This house was built in the spring of 1876, and is opened on or about the first of June each year; its location corner Broadway and Williams street. It has a commanding view of Broadway, the main street of the village. It is owned by Judge Hilton, and the lessee is Mr. Henry Clair, of New York. It is the first house of its kind opened in early June, in order to accommodate the Judges of the Court of Appeals — the highest Court in the State — which convenes here about that time every year. It is the home of the Judges and their families, as well as all the dis- tinguished hghts of the legal profession during the season. From its observatory may be had the most splendid view of the surrounding country. The house is first-class, has ac- commodations for three hundred guests, and except in size, said Mr. A. R. Wood, is superior to all other hotels at this watering place. Next in order comes the Springs. First in the fist is the old and ever popular Congress Springs. 148 K J : - 0\ V '/) "^ 'J'' '!> K J m Z i w 1 :i: f kV Vx" '>^ ■z. CO £. 7^ OS , s © M-H 0^ cc: • < 1/5 © v-^ © f P^■ 3 1 ^-^ \ ^ i \ c> © ^ (^^ 149 CONGRESS SPRINGS was discovered nearly a century ago — [792 — by Hon. James Taylor, member of Congress from New Hampshire. The park connected with the Springs is beautifully laid out with walks, groves, flowers, trees, and ponds, in which speckled trout abound, fountains, statuary, live deer, etc., etc. ; where night and day the beauty and fashion come for pleasure and to imbibe the water of Congress and Columbia Springs, which are within the enclosure. Those who are posted, come here and drink, thus avoiding those waters of other springs which are irritating in their nature, and harsh and inflammable to the stomach, injuring the kidneys and producing results irreparable. HATHORN SPRINGS was accidentally discovered in 1869, and is named after the Hon. H. H. Hathorn, its owner ; it is a powerful cathartic. The water is bottled for sale, and is probably the most solid water known, as it is said to contain eight hundred and eighty-eight grains soUd contents to a gallon. EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, some distance from town, as well as others I shall mention, you can visit when you take a drive. Washington Spring is on the grounds of one of the hotels. Crystal PaviHon, High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, A Spring, Geyser, or spout- ing spring, Robert Ellis, The Vichy, " The Champion Spouting Spring," Hamilton, Putnam, Flat Rock, Magnetic, Sulphur, Iron and Diamond, as well as a number of others ISO which have just been discovered, or may have been before this reaches you. If, however^ you are not satisfied with the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to visit the ones mentioned as I did, and accept the cordial invita- tion of each to take a glass, and if you do not feel the next day that there are springs enough at Saratoga, your feel- ings will be different from the sensation felt by the writer of this article, by a large majority. The drives in this vicinity are numerous. The road to the cemetery (which I am in- formed, by one of the oldest inhabitants, in order to start they were obliged to borrow a corpse from an adjoining county, and now a select few who wish to die happy come and are decently interred,) has been improved, so that the drive there is very much enhanced thereby. By far the prettiest drive, however, is through Broadway from Highland Hill for two miles to Glen Mitchell. The most fashionable drive is that to the lake. Immense sums of money have been expended to widen and beautify this drive, which is loo feet wide and shaded with trees, and is sprinkled to lay the dust. Visitors pass up on one side and down the other. Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and two and one-half wide. On an eminence on the western shore is Moon's Lake House, proverbial for its sumptuous game suppers. Parties fond of fishing or boating can enjoy this favorite pastime to their full extent. Its fitness for acquatic sports has been veri- fied by the many events of that nature which have taken place on its placid waters since 1S71, when the Ward brothers vancjuished two English crews selected from the best professional oarsmen of Great Britain. Racing is the turf event of the year, and cannot be described here, only mentioned. Life at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. The former is enjoyed by its citizens who possess some of the most luxurious, refined and elegant houses to be found in the United States. Hotel, or fashionable life is ephemeral in its nature, and like the beautiful butterfly its duration is short. In these few brief months wealth, beauty, fashion and other ingredients not so desirable, intermingle, and amid the gay whirl and excitement of the ball-room at night one is in a constant ecstacy. From his visit to the springs in the morning, promenades or drives in the afternoon, the music, lawn sociable, and gUttering fireworks at night, one wonders what time there is for even nature's balmy, sweet restorer — sleep. Anticipating your stay at Saratoga to have come to an end, you can depart for Albany any morning via Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore R. R., who run soHd trains to and from Saratoga to New York, and New York to Saratoga, Pullman Buffet cars. Some having tickets to New York by rail or boat, and de- sire to visit Boston, I advise everyone to take the Fall River Line to Boston. If you have tickets to Boston via Albany, take the Boston and Albany Railroad, which is first-class. NEW YORK. To those visiting New York for the first time, a few words of advice may not come amiss. I therefore suggest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Everyone in the city minds their own business, a credit in some ways ; but some people make it their business to fleece the stranger. I would, therefore, say keep your own counsel. If informa- tion be required, ask a poHceman. Upon arrival, take cars or stage, if possible, to destination. If you desire any of u m as ei 05 O = » »i V, 0) to a I §11 lil! (L, C tC " . °^?^? tS'C c r'- t*g ^ s •/ o e c ■■^- i "> c^i = ■>:?,■< 7 c Q3 TO C3 O IS CS c5 E-r. = 03 ■^5 ^^^ h I- T3 -9 ^ o OS 153 the hotels represented in this work, you will always find one or more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if possi- ble, the hacks, unless you make a fair, square bargain before entering the vehicle ; your trunk or valise may accompany you with carriage. You will always find upon all trains or boats, courteous agents of the different baggage express companies, who will take your check, giving a" receipt for the same, which reHev^s you and saves much trouble and annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt and their charges a stipulated price; no deviation, except for quantity. Something should be said here regarding the metropolis of the American Continent, but space as well as time pre- vents. As everything seen here is in grandeur superior to elsewhere, the impression made upon the mind while here will be everlasting, I shall not try to befog the mind with as meager a mention as I am capable of giving, but simply mention the principal hotels. The first one at hand is the Grand Union Hotel, 42d street, near the Grand Central Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim of life, its proper expenditure should not prove of secondary im- portance. That travel consumes a much larger portion of our finances than it should, is evident from the fact that but few possess the secret of retrenching in that direction. Two important factors of expense in travel is carriage hire and transfer of baggage, and that the traveling public is more generally becoming disposed to throw ofi" their former burden, is patent from the army of guests who daily register at and fill the 600 rooms (reduced to $1.00 and upwards per day), at the Grand Union Hotel, opposite the Grand Central Depot, New York City. Its European plan, ele- MURRAY HILL HOTEL, Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, One Block from the GEAND CENTEAL DEPOT. 155 gant restaurants, cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled cuisine, moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallenged management, coupled with its guests incurring no expense for carriage hire, or baggage transfer, with elevated railway, horse cars and stages to all parts of the city passing its doors, renders the Grand Union one of the most desirable of homes for travelers in the city, and also established its success and world-famed popularity. A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park Avenue in New York City, but one block from the Grand Central Depot. A more convenient hotel site for the accommoda- tion of the newly arrived traveler who would at the earliest moment find a home could not have been selected. The house stands upon the highest grade in New York, and, of course occupies the healthiest of locations. It is of great size, extending two hundred feet on the Avenue, more than two hundred feet on Fortieth street on the one side, and on Forty-first street on the other. It is of granite, brown stone and brick, fire-proof' When the traveler finds a hotel in everyway meeting his demands for comfort, he may honestly praise it while he disparages no other. For New York contains many costly structures, whose proprie- tors severally befieve that their guests have reason to be satisfied. Hotels are not advertised as second-class by those that manage them. The man who is used to com- fort at home is perhaps as good a judge as any one con- cerning what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. But, if you come to New York in the summer, I recommend you to this house, for in all this city there can be no healthier 156 KEEKER'S- GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL 667 to 677 BROADWAY. IS- CO ^ Eh "- .Msniiiiitiiniii ~ liniiiHiiitiil CO 0) (ft a cue r'z „ 5, > ce r i ^ - S ?< =" ^ a: C >^ ^ ?? 2 = p O ►a •Z ^ Z H S =: c z » 2! ; 1 1 ■ § 2 = ^173 - 5? z a Qj ! >: ^ z § ^ 2 e: 5c ■^ - H • c o ? I - > ^ 5 £ i > 5 E ?: c X ■■" - ;^ -^ ? o -: i; - = •») « ^ ^ ■'' I H y. r r" -3 ATTRACTIONS of the GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL. This Hotel is universally acknowledged the coolest in New York. The wide, straight halls running from Broadway to fiercer street, insure perfect circulation of air. The five large and elegant parlors. The handsomely decorated and cheerful Dining and Supper Rooms. It is provided with two of Otis & C'o."s celei)rated Elevators. Six outside Fire Escapes have been recently added, which, with five wide stairways, from roof to ground t1o<»r, makes the '"GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL" THE SAFEST HOTEL IN AMERICA. ;a<-li Moor in llie building i^ iiij^litly patrolled by a \\al4-liniaii \% itii a lell-lale clock. 157 place in the warm season. There is a satisfaction felt at once upon entrance to this beautiful house. The vestibule is apparently just large enough, the handsome, short flight of marble steps that lead to the office seems to be just long enough, the great hall seems just high enough to satisfy- fully the idea that one has of proper architectural propor- tion. The floor is of marble, but not the hideous black and white inset diagonal. The Siena is set against the slate and is a carpet pattern. One rather expects it to be soft and yielding to the foot, it looks so hke a Wilton. The office is roomy ; not three or four only, but forty peo- ple may range themselves along its handsome counter ready to sign, in regular order, the register. The book stand is no contracted affair, but space enough is given to allow display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and news- papers. Everything is on a grand scale, but altogether convenient. The great fire-place, which, with its huge burning logs, in winter invites the guest to share its comfort, is an attraction that merits and receives enthusiastic com- ment. The electric clock, lighted at night, the chandeliers which at the proper time, because of a light touch of a nob somewhere, instantly illumine halls and parlors, have their supply of electricity from the great machines in the base- ment, and the ice that is used for any purpose through all the house is made in huge condensers there. All the departments seem to be at all times in the best working order. All the employes seem ever wiUing to do their best to please the guest. There is a painstaking to furnish in- formation when it is asked ; if one clerk does not know he directs you to one who does. In the matter of meals, they are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, the choice •58 is made between the American or the European plan, but the restaurants above and below stairs are always available. It would be easy for me to compliment the management and the efficient office staff, but that goes for the saying. As space is Hmited, I need only advise you to give the Murray Hill Hotel your patronage once ; they will see that you make it your home hereafter. The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, Broad- way, one of the largest in the city. It has lately been re- fitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, and under its present proprietors, Messrs. Keefer & Co., is receiving the patron- age its merits deserve. It is run on the American and European plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded prices, its location and appointments, together with the friends one meets here (as it is patronized by more South- erners than any hotel in New York), makes it a pleasant place for tourist or traveler. I make it my home when in the city, and feel confident you will be pleased and recom- mend your friends there after a visit, the same as I do you. There was some talk of changing the name of this " land- mark," on account of the thorough change in the hotel and management, although I confess it would be applicable to the situation, as everything else has been changed, it would be better for its patrons to advertise the changes than the new name. Therefore, no matter what they call the Grand Central, it will please you as a hotel, and its prices are not extravagant. I take pleasure in mentioning here " The old Democratic Standard," the Metropolitan Hotel, Broadway, New York. Mr. Henry Clair, the lessee, has more hotels under his supervision than any man in the world, and he surprised me more in a ten minutes' inter- 159 The Favorite Route for Fashionable Pleasure Travel. SE^^SOIT OIF 1885. UTIGA& BLACK RIVER R.R., Only All-Rail Route to the Thousand Islands. 20 Miles Shortest; 2 Hours Quickest Route to Clayton and Alexandria Bay. This route is pre-eminently the route tor Tourist travel, and was con- structed with that end in view. It runs via Utica, Mohawk River, Cincinnati Creek, Trenton Falls. Highlands of Brown's Tract, The Sunset Slope of the Adirondacks. Sugar River, Black River, and Indian River, to the River St. Lawrence. It is popularly known as the Elegant Line to the Islands, and it is absolutely the only scenic route. During the summer season, elegantly equipped past trains are man be- tween Utica and the River St. Lawrence. These solid trains are completely equipped with Westinghouse Automatic Air Brakes, making quick time and very few stops. They are run expressly for the Tourist Travel, and carry elegant new Through Coaches and Drawing-room Cars. They are in every respect first-class trains. 5 Express Trains leave New Y&. ^ W^i w.m-^-^K LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I' I 017 397 388 30 e&.