Class ^ 1 ^ ^„ Book.^ U ^j ^v ^ Copyright 1^^ COPYRIGHT DEPOSCn Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/lancastersgolden01klei LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY 4^1^ 1821-1921 cA Chronicle of cMen and Women who Planned and Toiled to Build a City Strong and beautiful WRITTEN AND COMPILED BY H. M. J. KLEIN PROFESSOR OF HISTORY IN FRANKLIN AND MARSHALL COLLEGE PUBLISHED BY HAGER AND BRO. TO COMMEMORATE ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF THE HOUSE OF HAGEE?. APRIL, 1 92 I ERECTED 1783-1785. TAKEN DOWN MAY, 1853. OLD COURT HOUSE COPYRIGHT, 1 92 1 HAGER & BROTHER Wickersham Printing Company Lancaster, Pa. 192t APR -8 1921 ©CI.A6115:J3 CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I The First Hundred Years I CHAPTER II The Lancaster of 182 1 24 CHAPTER III A Period of Development 46 CHAPTER IV James Buchanan, the Citizen 62 CHAPTER V Lancaster and the Civil War 80 CHAPTER VI Notable Men and Women 91 CHAPTER VII Centenary Firms 105 CHAPTER VIII The Spirit of Lancaster 122 TRINITY LUTHERAN CHURCH LANCASTEK'S GOLDEN CENTURY CHAPTER I THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS HE story of Lancaster is the narrative of the rise and growth of a quaint old in- land colonial town, and of its develop- ment into a prosperous American city. It is the story of a community whose roots and springs run deep into the soil of the past, whose influences reach far and wide in the shaping of a larger life for the Commonwealth and the Nation. So far as is known the first white man to set foot on Lancaster County soil was a young Frenchman by the name of Brule who acted as guide and interpreter of the great explorer, Samuel Champlain. Early in the eighteenth cen- tury, French traders came to what is now Lan- caster County in order to carry on barter with the Shawanese Indians, located near the mouth of Pequea creek. 2 Lancaster's golden century In the days when there was trouble between the French and English in America, the governor of the province of Pennsylvania, John Evans, made several visits to the Indian settlements in Lancaster County in order to ascertain the loyalty of the Shawanese to the province of Pennsylvania and to the interest of Queen Anne. In 1 709 a colony of Mennonites from the moun- tain regions of Switzerland occupied the rich lands along the Conestoga under the leadership of Hans Herr and began to make Lancaster County the richest agricultural region in the United States. Then came the Huguenot families — the Ferree, LeFevre, DuBois — strong men and women who located in the Pequea valley and who became the forebears of some of our most distinguished citi- zens. They were speedily followed by the Scotch- Irish and the Quaker, and still later by the Palatine. The three original counties of Pennsylvania were Philadelphia, Bucks, and Chester. By an Act of May 10, 1729, Lancaster County was separated from Chester, and was given its name by John Wright, a native of Lancaster, England, one of the first settlers in this region. When originally formed, Lancaster County included a very large area. It has since been gradually re- duced to its present limits by the establishment of York, Cumberland, Berks, Northumberland, Dauphin and Lebanon counties. To-day it in- cludes 928 square miles, its greatest length from "tHE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS ^ north to south being 40 miles, and from east to west about 45 miles. There is perhaps no county in Pennsylvania possessing such an amount and variety of the sources of natural wealth. It is indeed a land flowing with milk and honey. There are no waste lands ; no worn-out fields. One must travel far in order to find a more picturesque spot or a region touched with such a diversity of physical wealth and beauty or such rich historical associations as are to be found in this Garden Spot of the United States. The radiant loveliness of the country immedi- ately around Lancaster renders it the most de- lightful of cities. The beauty of the past goes with you at every step. Lancaster is a town that has real claims to antiquity and yet space enough for nature to flourish at ease. She has long borne in the history of the State and of the Nation a distinct position. On her streets has been heard for well-nigh two centuries the busy hum of men. Just when the first settlement on the site of Lancaster City was made is not known. We do know that Andrew Hamilton owned a large plot of land which he divided into town lots and sold on easy ground-rent terms to purchasers. We do know that some of those who had taken up land were living here in 1 72 1 — two hundred years ago . — and formed an embryo village called " Hickory Town " or " Gibson's Pasture ". It is said that George Gibson kept a tavern in front of which stood a large hickory tree — after which the town 4 LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY was named. The town site was said to have been covered with w^oods and two swamps known as " Dark Hazel Swamp " and " Long Swamp " oc- cupied the lowest ground. When Andrew Hamilton laid out Lancaster in 1730 on the 500-acre tract of land he owned, there were two hundred inhabitants in the town. It was through his son, James Hamilton, that the village was turned into a borough in i 742. James Hamilton was a man of considerable prominence in his day, a member of the provincial assembly, mayor of Philadelphia, and governor of the province. That he was wide-awake and liberal is evidenced by the fact that he donated building lots to at least eight religious organizations in Lancaster. Thomas Cookson, the first Chief Burgess came from England. In the robing room of St. James' Episcopal Church is a stone with the following in- scription upon it: " Here are interred the Remains of Thomas Cookson (Late of Richmond, in York- shire, Great Britain), Esquire. He held and dis- charged with integrity several of the first offices in this county of Lancaster and thereby, and by his generous Benefaction to this Church, as well as many good offices to his Neighbors, he de- servedly acquired the esteem of mankind. He died the 20th day of March 1753 aged 43 years." In the same year in which Lancaster was in- corporated as a borough. Count Zinzendorf the great Moravian missionary came to this vicinity THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 5 to help the Shawanese Indians. They at first were alarmed when Zinzendorf and his little com- pany set up their tents on the banks of the Sus- quehanna. But his kindly manner and the ar- rival of Conrad Weiser soon afterward won the friendship and confidence of the Indians for the great Zinzendorf. A Treaty was made in 1744 at Lancaster be- tween the Chiefs of the Six Nations and the governors of Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Mary- land. It appears that a Delaware Indian Chief who had murdered a certain John Armstrong and his two servants, was arrested and imprisoned at Lancaster. All disputes between the whites and the Indians came up for discussion. During the French and Indian War, Benjamin Franklin was commissioned to secure hundreds of wagons and pack horses in order to oppose the French invasion of Pennsylvania. Many of these wagons and pack horses were obtained in Lan- caster and were sent to General Braddock at Will's Creek. When after Braddock's defeat the whole frontier was exposed to Indian molestation, and the savages began to ravage both sides of the Susquehanna, a block house or wooden fort was built in Lancaster, and the cloisters of Ephrata were used as shelter for the white settlers whom the Indians drove from home. So indignant were the people of Lancaster for a time over the neglect of the Provincial As- sembly to adopt measures which would put a stop 6 Lancaster's golden century to Indian outrages, that at a public meeting it was resolved that '' they would repair to Phila- delphia and compel the provincial authorities to pass proper laws to defend the country and oppose the enemy." It is said that the dead bodies of some of the victims of Indian massacre were sent to that city and hauled about the streets with placards announcing that these were victims of the policy of non-resistance. A mob surrounded the House of Assembly, placed the dead bodies in the doorway and demanded immediate relief for the people of the frontiers. After a period of renewed Indian outrages, Gov- ernor Denny of Pennsylvania held another Coun- cil with the Indian Chiefs of the Six Nations at Lancaster in 1757. During the general alarm felt in the days of the French and Indian War people from all parts of Lancaster rallied under arms for the general defense and performed their duty on the border, many serving as officers and soldiers in the battalions which marched Avith Forbes and Bouquet to the Ohio. In this list of Lancaster County men who served in the French and Indian War are found the names of Shippen, Grubb, Atlee, Hambright, Reynolds, and a roll of five Presbyterian clergymen serving as chaplains. The Scotch Irish settlers in the Paxton and Donegal townships had suffered terribly from Indian outrages during the whole period of the French and Indian War. The Conestoga Indians THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 7 however had not been at war with the whites. They were considered rather friendly. Bill Sock, a well-known Conestoga Indian, was probably an exception. In any case the Paxton boys after vainly asking protection from the governor and provincial authorities determined to strike terror into all Indians by exterminating the Conestoga tribe. On December 27, 1763 a band of sixty men called the Paxton boys came into Lancaster, stormed the jail and workhouse located at the northeast corner of West King and Prince streets, and mercilessly massacred the fourteen Indians confined there for protection. During the American Revolution Lancaster took an earnest and patriotic part. With the en- forcing of the Boston Port Bill which closed the port of that city, the resentment of every colonist in America was aroused. Among the first to take concerted action in response to this outrage were the people of the borough of Lancaster. A meet- ing of the inhabitants of the borough took place at the Court House on June 15, 1774. Though still professing firm; allegiance to His Most Gracious Majesty, George the Third, they passed strong resolutions to unite with all the other colonists to use the most effectual means to pro- cure a repeal of. the unjust acts of Parliament against the town of Boston. A committee of correspondence was appointed, consisting of Edward Shippen, Esq., George Ross, Esq., Jasper Yeates, Esq., Matthias Slough, Esq., James Webb, 8 Lancaster's golden century Esq., William Atlee, Esq., William Henry, Esq., Mr. Ludwig Lauman, Mr. William Bausman, and Mr. Charles Hall. At a later meeting held July 9, 1774 at which George Ross presided, the right of Parliament to tax the colonies without their consent was denied, and a call was issued for a close union of all the colonies to resist the oppressive acts of the British Parliament. The sum of 153 pounds was col- lected for the relief of the people of Boston. The people of Lancaster were dead in earnest in their determination to refuse importation of British goods. When two merchants were charged with violating the agreement made at that meeting by bringing in tea on which the duty had been paid, the committee at once began in- vestigation and acquitted the men only after it was proved that no duty had been paid on tea, but that it had been seized at the Philadelphia custom house. On December 15, 1774 a Committee of Obser- vation consisting of ']6 members was elected at a meeting of the Freeholders of the County held in the Court House at Lancaster. The object of the Committee was to see that the agreement not to import or export British goods was fully observed. Six days after the battle of Lexington, news of the first bloodshed of the Revolution reached Lan- caster. At once a meeting of the borough com- mittee was called at the Grape Tavern. By May ij 1775) it was resolved by the community that THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 9 military companies be formed to defend our rights and liberties with our lives and fortunes. With- in a week the formation of companies called "Associators ", began. These troops fought throughout the whole War of Independence, in the battles of Long Island, White Plains, Trenton, Princeton, Brandywine, Germantown and Mon- mouth. Col. Thompson's Battalion of Riflemen joined Washington's army at Cambridge, Mass. in August, 1775. In this Battalion were three officers from Lancaster Borough, Colonel Edward Hand, Lieuts. David Ziegler and Frederick Hubley. Capt. Matthew Smith's Company of Lancaster took part in the invasion of Canada in 1775. Many of Lancaster's troops endured the hardships of the encampment at Valley Forge during the winter of IJJJ-IJ'J^. Lieut.-Col. Adam Hubley of Lancaster and the new nth Penna. Regiment formed part of Sullivan's fam- ous expedition against the Indians in i 779. On July 4, 1776 a military convention was held at Lancaster composed of delegates from many Pennsylvania battalions of Associators for the purpose of forming a Flying Camp as directed by the Continental Congress. When the defeat of the Army of the Americans at Brandywine, September 11, 1777 made it evident that General Washington could not prevent the victorious forces of Gen. Howe from occupying Phila- delphia, Continental Congress and the Executive Council of Pennsylvania took measures looking to 10 Lancaster's golden century an immediate removal to a place of safety. The British army under Gen. Howe entered Phila- delphia on the 27th of September. The last session of the Council prior to that event was held on the 23 rd. Its next meeting was on Wed- nesday, October ist at Lancaster where its ses- sions continued to be held for nearly nine months, during which time the President of the Council, the Hon. Thomas Wharton, Jr. died. His body was interred in the Evangelical Lutheran Church. The Continental Congress remained in session in Philadelphia after the battle of Brandywine until the 1 8th of September when it adjourned upon receiving a letter from Col. Hamilton, one of Gen. Washington's aids, which intimated the necessity of Congress leaving their place of deliberation. The members resolved at once to come to Lancaster where they arrived on the 27th of September, the very day on which Gen. Howe entered Philadelphia. The records and treasury were removed to Lancaster by way of Reading. One session of Congress was held here but the members believing that they might be interrupted by the enemy resolved to remove Congress to York. Christopher Marshall's interesting diary gives us a delightful picture of war conditions in Lan- caster during Revolutionary Days. Under August 24, 1777 he writes: " Wife and I stayed at home to keep the boys out of the orchard, (His home was on East Orange St.) After /^ THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS II dinner I took a walk with Capt. Markoe to the barracks; stayed there till the English, Scotch and Irish prisoners, to the number of two hun- dred, marched out under a strong guard to Reading." August 25th: '* To the barracks; waited till our division of Hessian prisoners, con- sisting of three hundred and forty-five, marched out under a strong guard (with somie women and baggage wagons, as the prisoners yesterday had done) for Lebanon. August 26th : " News that Gen. Washington with half his army and light horse, passed through Philadelphia on First Day morning on their way to Wilmington, and that Howe with his fleet was seen off Eagle Point, but had not landed. On First Day morning the bell- man went round this town, calling upon the in- habitants that had Hessian prisoners, to take them to the barracks and receive receipts for them, but very few obeyed." September 12th: ''I went into town, an alarm being spread that some of Howe's Light Horse had been seen at Pequea Church, about 18 miles from Lancaster. This set sundry people to pack up their goods and some sent them out of town into the country. Later we learned that the news of the morning was the lie of the day." September 17th: " It is said that James Rankin who ran away last week from his habitation in York County on account of his being accused of forming a scheme to destroy all our magazines of ammunition, arms, tents, baggage, provisions, etc. in Lancaster, 12 Lancaster's golden century Carlisle, York, Reading, etc. was taken about six- teen miles from our enemies' camp, and secured, but where I could not learn." September 20th: " We sat late conversing on these melancholy times." September 25th: "Came into town President Hancock, and some others of the Dele- gates." September 29th : " Took leave of sundry of the Congress, who were setting off for York- town. Many of the inhabitants of Philadelphia came (to Lancaster) to-day and yesterday, as did our President or Governor, the Executive Council and the members of Assembly, who met here this day in the Court House." Many of the Hessians captured by Washing- ton at Trenton, and many others made prisoners by Burgoyne's surrender at Saratoga were con- fined at Lancaster. Among the prisoners here was the unfortunate Major Andre. While here he signed a parole which read: " I John Andre, being a prisoner in the United Colonies of America do, upon the honor of a gentleman promise that I will not go into or near any sea- port town, nor farther than six miles distant from Lancaster without leave of the Continental Con- gress or the Committee of Safety of Pennsyl- vania, and that I will carry on no political cor- respondence whatever on the subject of the dis- pute between Great Britain and the Colonies so long as I remain a prisoner." On these condi- tions he became a member of the household of Caleb Cope, on North Lime St. on the north side of Grant. TPIE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 13 Not only prisoners of war, but a great many wounded American soldiers were brought to Lan- caster from the battlefield of Brandywine. Over 500 were taken to Ephrata where 150 of them died. The story of Lancaster's part in the American Revolution would not be complete without refer- ence to Lancaster's signer of the Declaration of Independence, George Ross. This son of an Episcopal clergyman, born in New Castle, Dela- ware, settled in Lancaster in 1751 and became prosecutor for the King. He became a repre- sentative in the Pennsylvania Assembly and later was elected to the first Continental Congress. That Lancaster appreciated the services of George Ross is evidenced by the fact that at a public meeting held in the borough it was resolved that one hundred and fifty pounds be presented to George Ross, and that he use the same to purchase '' a genteel piece of plate, ornamented as he thinks proper, to remain with him as a testimony of the esteem this county has for him, by reason of his patriotic conduct in the great struggle for Ameri- can liberty." Mr. Ross graciously and modestly declined this liberal and honorable present. A few months after he signed the Declaration of Independence, ill health compelled him to leave Congress. He died in Lancaster in 1779. When the Ross farm, now known as Rossmere was laid out into town lots, the old Ross mansion was torn down. It stood on Ross street between 14 Lancaster's golden century Shippen and Plum streets. The site is marked by a pillar and tablet erected by the pro- prietors of Rossmere, and presented to the Lan- caster County Historical Society on June 4, 1897. The tablet bears the following inscription, " Here stood the house of George Ross, Signer of the Declaration of Independence, born 1730, died 1779, Lawyer, Statesman, Patriot." A stained glass window in St. James' Church also com- memorates his memory. Another son of Lancaster who brought dis- tinction to his native soil in Revolutionary Days was David Ramsay, the historian. Born in Lan- caster County in 1749 he began the practice of medicine in South Carolina, where he ardently espoused the cause of the patriots, became active in the provisional free government and when the Revolutionary, War broke out he became a sur- geon in the military service. He was among the prisoners captured in Charleston in 1780, and was closely confined in the fort at St. Augustine. Dr. Ramsay was a member of Congress from 1 782 to I ySG and was president of that body for a year. Both his '' History of the Revolution in South Carolina " and his " History of the American Revolution " were translated into the French lan- guage and published in France. He also wrote and published a *' Life of Washington " and a " History of the United States " to the close of the colonial period. Dr. Ramsay because of his intimate associations with General Green. Ben- THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 15 jamin Franklin, and George Washington pos- sessed greater facilities for procuring materials for the history of the Revolution than any other individual in the United States. Dr. Ramsay was shot in the back and slain by the bullet of a maniac, within sight of his own door in Broad Street, Philadelphia, in 1815. William Henry was another of Lancaster's dis- tinguished sons in Revolutionary Days. For many years he conducted a gun factory at the southeast corner of Centre Square. He. became one of the most active men of Lancaster to espouse the cause of the colonies. He was engaged by the general committee of safety to manufacture and repair arms for the continental army. During the Revolution the house of Mr. Henry was a place of resort for men of culture and prominence. While the British held Philadelphia, David Rittenhouse, the philosopher, then State Treas- urer, Thomas Paine, author of the " Rights of Man," John Hart, a member of the Executive Council were guests at the house of Mr. Henry. It was during the time that Thomas Paine was stopping at the house of Mr. Henry that he wrote No. 5 of his celebrated political treatises, the " Crisis ". Mr. Henry was commissary of the regiment of troops raised in Lancaster County and was destined to reinforce Arnold at Boston. He was a member of the Continental Congress from 1784 to 1786. It was said of him that he first recognized in the youthful Benjamin West a 1 6 Lancaster's golden century genius of high order, and that he suggested to West his first masterpiece '' The Death of So- crates." When West confessed that he knew nothing of Socrates, Mr. Henry went to his library and took down a volume of the English trans- lation of Plutarch and convinced the artist of the fitness of the theme which afterwards made West famous. Judge John Joseph Henry was the son of Wil- liam Henry. In the fall of 1 775 he secretly joined a regiment raised in Lancaster County for the purpose of joining Arnold, who at that time was stationed at Boston. When the boy was but seventeen years of age, his regiment entered Canada and endured hardships there which young Henry has immortalized in his history of the cam- paign against Quebec. He was later appointed by Governor MifBin Judge of the Second Judicial District of Pennsylvania, and held the position for seventeen years. The greatest military hero of Lancaster during the Revolution, however, was General Edward Pland. This native of Ireland, surgeon in the Royal Irish regiment, sailed with his regiment from Cork in 1767 and arrived at Philadelphia. In 1774 he came with a recommendation to Lancaster in order to practice his profession. In 1775 he en- tered the Continental service. In 1777 he was chosen Colonel of the first regiment of Pennsyl- vania riflemen, famous for its exploits during the Revolution. He was raised to the grade of THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 17 Brigadier General and subsequently to that of Adjutant General. He fought in the Battles of Trenton and Long Island. He succeeded Gen- eral Stark in command at Albany in 1778 and accompanied General Sullivan in the expedition against the Six Nations in 1780. He was a mem- ber of Continental Congress in 1784 and 1785. A man of soldierly presence, a fine horseman, an able commander, General Hand was a distin- guished figure. His home " Rockford " still stands on the Conestoga river in the southeastern part of the city. Under the roof of this hospitable mansion, many of the soldiers and civilians fam- ous in the early annals of our nation found shelter and congenial companionship. Edward Hand was elected chief burgess of Lancaster in 1 789. It is from a famous letter that he wrote during this period that we get our real light on the status of Lancaster at the time our national government came into existence. He put forth the claims of Lancaster for the honor of the nation's capital. It must be born in mind that Lancaster in 1789 was the largest inland town in the United States. General Hand wrote to Congress, " Should the general interests of the Union point out an inland, central situation as preferable to a seaport for the future residence of your Honorable Body, We humbly offer ourselves as candidates for that dis- tinguished honor. As an inland town, we do not consider ourselves inferior to any within the i§ Lancaster's golden centurV Dominion of the United States. The Borough of Lancaster is a square encompassing a portion of ground one mile in length from the centre (the court house) by the main streets which inter- sect at right angles. We have five public build- ings, including an elegant court house, fifty by forty-eight feet. There are several places of wor- ship besides a temporary synagogue, belonging tO' the respective societies of Episcopalian, Pres- byterian, Lutherans, Reformed Church of Heidel- berg, Moravian, Quakers and Catholics. Within the compass of the borough an enumeration of dwellings was actually taken in 1786 and the number then built was 678. Many of the houses are large and elegant, and would in our idea, ac- commodate Congress and their suite at this period without inconvenience. Boarding and lodging are to be had at very easy rates. According to the best computation we can make there are with- in this borough about 4200 souls." ''The industries of the town are (1789) — 14 hatters, 36 shoemakers, 4 tanners, 17 saddlers, 25 tailors, 22 butchers, 25 weavers, 25 blacksmiths, 12 public bakers, 30 carpenters, 11 coopers, 6 dyers, 7 gunsmiths, 5 ropemakers, 5 tinners, 2 brass founders, 3 skindressers, i brushmaker, 7 turners, 7 nailors, 5 silversmiths, 3 potters, 3 cop- persmiths, 3 breweries, 3 brickyards, 3 printing presses, and 40 houses of public entertainment within the borough." The close of the Revolution marked the be- THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 19 ginning of numerous institutions of higher learn- ing. In this movement Lancaster shared in the founding of Franklin College, Twelve men of national prominence took the initiative in found- ing a College in Lancaster because of the central and healthy situation of the place, the character of its inhabitants, the convenience with which students of every description might be accommo- dated with board and lodging and the probability that the necessary buildings might be secured at a moderate expense. From the profound respect for the character of His Excellency the President of the State, the institution was called Franklin College. The petition was signed by Thomas McKean, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, Chief Justice of Pennsylvania from 1777 to 1799 and governor of the state from 1 799 to 1808 ; by Peter Muhlenberg, the soldier preacher of the Revolu- tion, a major general in the American Army and later a noted United States Senator; by Benjamin Rush, one of the most eminent men of the Revolu- tion and of the generation following, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, a surgeon in the American Army, a writer and philanthropist of wide renown ; and by other men of equal dis- tinction. That the petitioners were justified in their statement that they had prospects of obtain- ing funds to carry out their designs is seen in the first subscription list of Franklin College which is headed by his Excellency Benjamin Franklin, io Lancaster's golden centurV Esq. with a subscription of 200 pounds, followed by the names of Robert Morris, Peter Muhlenberg and others. The Legislature of Pennsylvania granted a charter to Franklin College on the lOth of March, 1787. Among the first trustees of Franklin College, four, Rush, McKean, Clymer and Morris had been signers of the Declaration of Independence, a number of them, Muhlenberg, Mifflin, Daniel and Joseph Hiester, Chambers, Farmer, Craw- ford, had been officers in the Revolutionary War. Mifflin, McKean and Joseph Hiester became gov- ernors of Pennsylvania. Several of the trustees became senators of the United States. A number were prominent citizens of Lancaster, Casper Schaffner, Jasper Yeates and others. Almost all the members of the Board of Trus- tees of Franklin College were present at the first meeting, a long line of carriages bringing many of them over 66 miles of road from Philadelphia. Benjamin Franklin then 81 years of age left his activities as a member of the Constitutional Con- vention meeting in Philadelphia, to be present at the dedication of the college to be named in his honor. The first faculty of Franklin College was composed of men concerning whom Benjamin Rush said that a cluster of more learned or better qualified masters had not met in any university. In the spring of 1791 George Washington then President of the new union of the United States left his home in Philadelphia to make a tour tiFlE F'IRST HtTNDRED YEARS ^^ through all the Southern states. On his return he stopped at Lancaster. His visit fell on the fifteenth anniversary of American Independence, so, on July 4, 1 791, he joined with our city fathers in the celebration of that important event. Al- though much feted and elaborately entertained by public demonstrations, Washington found time in the afternoon to visit his old friends, General and Mrs. Hand, at their home '' Rockford." On the 14th of December, 1799 when George Washington died, there was a solemn procession through the streets of Lancaster as soon as the news arrived here. While the entire nation was mourning the loss of Washington, the State of Pennsylvania was called upon to lament the death of its first governor, Thomas Mifflin. This splendid ex-governor and Quaker General of the Revolutionary Army died in Lancaster, while serving as a member of the Legislature, this city being then the capital of the state. Mifflin was buried on the 22d of January, 1800, just out- side the west wall of Trinity Church, beneath the humble tablet placed there, at a later date, to transmit his memory and mark his resting place. Lancaster was the capital of Pennsylvania from 1799 to 1812 when the state capital was removed to Harrisburg. The State Legislature met in the Court House, which at that time was also known as the State House. The present Court House at the corner of East King and Duke Streets, is the third Court House Lancaster has had. Even 22 Lancaster's golden century before the first one was built the courts were held at different taverns. The first court house was begun in 1736 and finished in 1739. It was a two-story brick structure and stood in the centre of the square where the Soldier's Monument now stands. The floor was laid with brick. There was a steeple on it and about 1756 a clock was placed in the belfry. This Court House was de- stroyed by fire in 1784. A new and more impos- ing structure was at once built on the site of the one destroyed. It was in this second Court House that the State Legislature met. The third and present Court House was built in 1852 and com- pleted in 1854. During the War of 181 2 a large number of sol- diers from Lancaster County entered the service. When there was a general apprehension that the British were preparing to invade Maryland and Delaware, a Lancaster County battalion of several companies marched to Elkton, Mar^dand. x^Lmong the troops on that expedition was the Lancaster Phalanx commanded by Captain James Humes. Captain John Hubley also commanded a company from Lancaster. During the British invasion of Maryland and attack on Baltimore, Governor Simon Snyder called out the militia of Lancaster and neighboring counties to the number of 5,000 men. The capture and burning of Washington brought out many volunteers from Lancaster County, but the services of many of the troops were not required for actual fighting. THE FIRST HUNDRED YEARS 23 On petition of the citizens, Lancaster after a period of seventy-six }^ears under burgess rule, was incorporated as a city by a charter granted by Act of the State Legislature in 18 18. The meeting of the burgesses which for three quarters of a century had been held at the house of one Jacob Frey, forthwith ceased. Fifteen members of Common Council and nine members of Select Council v/ere elected, and John Passmore became the first mayor of the newly incorporated city of Lancaster. The Old had passed away and there was great promise for the New. Such is the story from Brule to Passmore — a period of exactly two hundred years. "^^^-z^ GENERAL HAND'S HOUSE OLD HOUSES ON MIDDLE STREET CHAPTER II THE LANCASTER OF I 82 I OR Americans, the noteworthy events of the year 1821 seem to have been the inauguration of President Monroe, and the admission of Missouri to state- hood. The United States had 10,000,000 inhabi- tants, of which more than one-tenth lived in the State of Pennsylvania. The State of Illinois had only 55,000. The list of taxables in Lancaster County was 13,560 whites, and 14 slaves. James Buchanan was our represenative in Congress, Joseph Hiester was Governor of the State, and Samuel Carpenter, Mayor of the City of Lancaster. The sheriff of course was an important county official in those days. He took the duties of his office very seriously. It is recorded that a certain THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 25 John Lechler tried and found guilty of murder was executed by authority of the sheriff on the commons west of the city of Lancaster. The poor fellow was w^alked on foot in dress parade from the jail to the place of execution escorted by the City Guards, the Lancaster Phalanx, the Lan- caster Greens, and accompanied by the City Band. Two troops of cavalry and the Leacock Phalanx from the county attended on the ground and formed a guard round the gallows before the criminal arrived. It is estimated that at least 15,000 people were present. Truly the sheriff must have been in his glory on that day. Fifteen thousand people ! Lancaster City at the time had but 1600 taxables, and a population of 8,000 souls. The central feature of Lancaster in 182 1 was the Court House in Centre Square. From this Court House there radiated the several streets as one still finds them to-day. At the north- east corner of West King and Prince Streets was the branch Bank of Philadelphia which had been opened in 1803. On East King Street was to be found the Farmers Bank of Lan- caster. This property at the corner of Duke and East King streets had been purchased from Mr. Philip Reigart in 18 14. The Demuth Tobacco Store, the oldest of its kind in the United States, had been doing business at 114 East King street since 1770. Just a few doors west of the Farmers Bank, J. F. Heinitsh was advertising 26 Lancaster's golden century " Fresh and Genuine Drugs and Medicines, Dye Stuffs." John Frederick Steinman was conduct- ing the hardware store on West King street, which had been opened as far back as 1 744, and which is still in existence. Across the street C. Hager and Co. was advertising " Fresh Fall Goods, Oueensware and Groceries." On West King street the Lancaster Journal was printed by John Reynolds. On East King street, the Pennsylvaiiia Gazette was published every Tuesday by Hugh Maxwell. Books and stationer}^ were also for sale at the Gazette office. The Lancaster Intelli- gencer was published weekly on North Queen street by William Dickson. Books, pamphlets and handbills were to be had at the Lancaster Journal office, sign of Franklin's Head, West King street. The most pretentious building in the community was probabl}^ the four-story stone house com- monly called The Lancaster Cotton Factory, seventy by forty feet on the Conestoga Creek one mile from the centre of the city. George Hoff advertised himself as clock and watch maker on East King street while his wife sold an assortment of leghorn and straw bonnets for ladies in the same store. Hats and shoes could be bought on West King street next door to the Sign of the Lamb. On the northeast corner of Centre Square next door to the Post Office, John Getz the Cop- persmith, Sheet Iron and Tin Plate Worker, sold stills, copper and brass kettles. A Starch Factory had been started by John W. Field just arrived THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 27 from England. This factory was opened in the house next to that formerly occupied by Dr. Dah^ John Riddle had a barber and hairdressing es- tablishment next door but one west of Mr. Slay- maker's Inn on East King street. Hoffnagle and Hubley commission merchants were to be found on North Queen street near the Court House. John Moderwel, coach and harness maker, was located at King and Lime streets. At the south- east corner of Centre Square, Ober and Kline were selling fresh juniper berries and dyestuffs. John Doersh, bookbinder and paperhanger, was located on South Queen street directly opposite Robert Wilson's Tavern. George Bomberger's store was to be found on East King street three doors below the sign of the Ship, nearly opposite the house of Dr. Abraham Carpenter. Mr. McMillan on North Queen street near the Court House was handling spectacles and whips. Augustus J. Kuhn informed the citizens of Lan- caster that he had just procured machinery for preparing seltzer and soda waters. The principal improvement '' consists in extracting the atmos- pheric air from the water, rendering it more salubrious and pleasant." Soda with syrup, 6% cents, soda plain 3 cents. Another ambitious business man informed the inhabitants of Lancaster that he has just returned from Philadelphia with the latest fashions, and that he could make a suit of clothes in five hours, if required. One of the stores advertised superior 28 Lancaster's golden century quills and neat small pewter inkstands. Thus it is seen that there were a goodly number of stores in Lancaster in 1821. A number of private schools were in existence in Lancaster during this period. Many of them were of a rather primitive nature. A self- appointed teacher would advertise for example that " he proposed to teach the young ladies and gentlemen of the community the polite art of writing." Another oifered to teach the art of pen- manship in verse, and English Grammar to be imparted in verse. John Webb opened his school April 3rd on South Queen street, and offered to teach reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, bookkeeping, geography. Terms of tuition per quarter were two and three dollars. Edward Clarke, long a teacher in Philadelphia, opened a school in September on North Prince street. Mr. Williams had a Penmanship and Drawing Academy on North Queen street. A Mr. and Mrs. Quinan opened an English and French school. A special school for young ladies was conducted by Sarah Armstrong on Queen street, second square north of the Court House. The Thomas school for young children was to be found " half a square east of Metzgar's Tavern." A circulating library was conducted by Miss Jordan in the house formerly occupied by Mr. Joseph Smith coachmaker, East King street. The library fee was three dollars a year. Franklin College seems at this period to have been in a more THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 29 or less moribund condition. Within a few years however the Lancaster County Academy was founded which once more gave Lancaster a classi- cal school. A lot of ground was procured at the northeast corner of Orange and Lime streets on which the Academy Building was erected. The Lancaster County Academy was later merged in Franklin College. In speaking of the early schools of Lancaster of course mention must be made of the Moravian Schools of Lititz, of the Seventh Day Advent Schools of Ephrata, of the Episcopal Church School at Caernarvon, of the Presbyterian Classi- cal Schools in Salisbury, Donegal and Drumore, and of the parochial schools of other denomin- ations. A public school on what was known as the Lancastrian plan was opened in the city of Lancaster in 1823. It was considered an institu- tion of high repute in its day. General Lafayette visited it when he was lionized in Lancaster in 1825. The building is still used to-day for School Administrative purposes. It stands at the corner of West Chestnut and Prince streets. Young people seem to have had plenty of amusement in Lancaster in 1821. There were al- ways the simple games that our forefathers knew, corner ball, rail pitching, sledge tossing and quoits. Then there were the singing schools dur- ing winter. For those who were more frivolously inclined there were the balls and the cotillion parties. Then there was the Annual Festival of 30 Lancaster's golden century Harvest Home '* where the sons and daughters of freedom and those who are friendly to innocent pleasure and festive gaity are invited. The tavern-keepers/' so reads the notice, '' have pro- vided themselves with everything that can ren- der the hilarity of the day agreeable." Or there was what was known as the Yearly Market, when long rooms were cleared for the lightsome dance, and a goodly assortment of gingerbread, raisins, figs and pickled oysters were served to festive guests. Or one could attend the Lancaster Theatre on Orange street. One of the plays given in the Lancaster Theatre was called '' Point of Honor " or a '* School for Soldiers." In the third act there was a military procession prepara- tory to the execution of a deserter. After the three acts of this melodrama, there was a musical farce in two acts called '' Lock and Key " with songs and duets. Two songs that were sung were entitled " When Freedom on the foaming main," and *' When left to themselves, girls are mischiev- ous elves." The doors opened at 6.30 and the curtain rose at 7.00. Or if the devotee of pleasure in the second and third decade of the nineteenth centuiy in Lancaster wanted to see something even more exciting he could go to the Lancaster Museum, and see the " Wonders of Nature and Art." This institution was brilliantly illuminated on Tues- day and Friday nights, the nights of illumination. There for twelve cents and a half, he could see THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 I 31 shells from the West Indies, and a number col- lected by the Proprietor John Landis ' on his late visit to the sea-shore.' Aquatic and other birds, fish ' well worth the attention of the curious ', insects some of which were singularly interesting, a large elk, a wild cat, an African ape and a bear added to the value of the museum. There were also a number of wax figures depicting Biblical scenes. The fatal duel between Decatur and Barron was staged in wax, the group representing the parties immediately after they had fired, Decatur mortally wounded in the arms of his friend Col. Bainbridge, and Barron danger- ously wounded in the arms of Captain Elliott. In place of " movies " they had a magic lantern show, advertised as a " Phantasmagoria." Opposite the Lancaster Museum was Allen's Lottery and Exchange Office. Here tickets could be bought and shares in a variety of numbers of the Grand State Lottery. On Washington's Birthday the lottery distributed the sum of $250,000, including a first prize of $100,000. The means of transportation was by stage coach. A line connected Chambersburg, Carlisle, Harrisburg, Lancaster and Philadelphia. The stage left Red Lion Market House, Philadelphia at half past six in the morning for Lancaster, and another left Mr. Cooper's sign of the Red Lion for Philadelphia every morning at half past six. Three times a week the stage left Mr. Cooper's for Llarrisburg and the following days left Mr. 32 Lancaster's golden century Schock's Harrisburg for Lancaster at seven in the morning. The fare from Philadelphia to Lancaster was three dollars and from Lancaster to Harrisburg was two dollars. The winter of 1 821 was considered a hard winter. One citizen writes " That the times are hard, the taxes heavy, money scarce and that the improvement of the city ought not to stand still are truths which we admit." The Lancaster Benevolent Society in acknowledging a rather modest contribution in November, 182 1 says "At a time like the j^resent when we are surrounded with so much sickness and distress, and such re- peated applications are made to charitable citizens, the society felt a delicacy in obtruding themselves upon the notice of the public, and they almost be- gan to despair of being able to provide any flannel or wood for the approaching winter." The accounts of the Treasurer of the City of Lancaster, George Weizel show that from Janu- ary, 1 82 1 to January, 1822 he received a total of $3,600.92 of which sum, $12 was received for licenses granted for exhibiting strange animals, $118 for butchers on account of shamble rent, $6.08 from clerk of market, for butter under-, weight seized and sold. The expenditures con- sisted of pay for night watchmen, rattles for use of night watchmen, lamp-posts, wicks, torch yarn, fuel for watch boxes, paving gutters and foot- walks, painting and lettering index boards. What was known as the American System of titE LANCASTER OF 1 82 t J 3 Henry Clay was making itself felt all over the nation just one hundred years ago. It was a demand for home manufacture. That demand was echoed in Lancaster in the following state- ment found in one of the Lancaster newspapers of that period : " We continue tO' purchase manu- factures from Europe because we think we can buy them cheaper than make them. This policy cannot last. The period is rapidly hastening when we will be obliged to abridge our wants or supply them from our own resources. We will have to work our own iron mines, grow and manufacture our own wool and flax and by these means create employment for our citizens and a home market for our agricultural products." This demand for home manufactured products made itself strongly felt in Lancaster at an early date. There was another way in which patriotism manifested itself a hundred years ago. That was by the public demonstrations of the military companies. Throughout the city and the county there were to be found many military organiza- tions, frequent parades, and annual election of captain and lieutenants. There was the Leacock Phalanx, the City Guards, the Lancaster Greens, the volunteers and enrolled militia composing the First Brigade of the Fourth Division of Penn- sylvania, the Strasburg Independent Blues, the Lancaster County Light Dragoons, the Volunteer Troop of Cavalry formed in the bounds of the 34 Lancaster's golden century 35th Regiment, and the Union Troop. These state and local military companies were neces- sary. For in January, 1820 the whole United States Army consisted of only 8,184 men. The Fourth of July celebrations were the oc- casion for wonderful demonstrations and en- thusiastic banquets in those days. In George Washington's Diary there is an interesting ac- count of a 4th of July which he spent in Lan- caster 130 years ago. He arrived here from York at 6 o'clock on the evening of July 3rd escorted from Wright's Ferry by General Hand and many of the principal characters of Lancaster. It was a rare honor for Lancaster to entertain His Ex- cellency, The President of the United States on the Anniversary of American Independence. Washington wrote in his diary: ''At Lancaster: July 4, 1 79 1. This being the Anniversary of American Independence and being kindly re- quested to do it, I agreed to halt here this day and partake of the entertainment which was pre- paring for the celebration of it. In the forenoon I walked about the town. At half past 2 o'clock I received and answered an address from the Cor- poration and the Compliments of the Clergy of different denominations — dined between 3 and 4 o'clock — drank tea with Mrs. Hand." According to Claypoole's Daily Advertiser "At three o'clock President Washington and a very large number of citizens, sat down to an elegant entertainment, provided for the occasion, in the court-house." THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 I 35 The following are a few records of Independence Day celebrations one hundred years ago. The " Paradise Hornet " — strange to find a hornet in Paradise — records that the " Union Troop of Cavalry commanded by Captain J. Moore met at the house of Mr. Isaac Smoker on the turnpike for the purpose of celebrating the birthday of American Independence where they partook of an elegant repast. After the cloth was removed toasts accompanied by cheers and plaudits of the company were drank, when the members of the company returned to their respective homes in perfect harmony." The toasts drank on the Fourth of July of each year were generally considered as indication of popular feeling on political subjects. One of the cleverest toasts ran something like this : " The army which never pulled a trigger or pushed a bayonet against the rights of man — ^the Army of the United States." Another to the Fair Sex ran : " Let them give us their affections, and we will protect them with our arms." Among the toasts given at the Fourth of July banquet of the Lan- caster County Light Dragoons commanded by Captain Diller was one to the Legislature of Pennsylvania which was worded thus: "While taking care of themselves may they not forget to take care of volunteers and militia. Lexing- ton and New Orleans have proved their worth." Two other toasts ran as follows : " Lancaster County, The Garden of America, May her agrj- 36 Lancaster's golden century culturalists reap the benefit of their labors." " Kosciusko of Poland, De La Fayette of France and Washington of America, a trio of freemen engaged in the cause of American Independence." Fourth of July was really the great day of the year. When the clock struck seven a merry peal from the Cotton Factory bell proclaimed the breakfast hour. In a little time, discharge of cannon and volleys of musketry followed. Then came martial music and the parades. At one o'clock dinner with copious libations. These dinners were usually held at some of the numerous taverns which had helped to give Lan- caster a far spread fame for hospitality. There was the Indian Queen, the Black Horse, the Sign of the Fox Chase, Cross Keys, Rising Sun, Sign of the Lamb, Sign of the Wagon, The Swan, the Leopard, the Grape, Sign of the Anchor. Lan- caster had many famous hostelries in the olden days. The landlords and innkeepers were often men of prominence and intelligence. During the Revolution the Supreme Executive Council of Pennsylvania and the Committee of Correspond- ence and Observation met at " The Grape Inn." Tradition also says that Washington was a guest at the " Grape " when in Lancaster. Buchanan always made it his headquarters. The '' Cross Keys " was the resort of the Quakers. Lafayette stopped at the '' State Arms " of which Henry Slaymaker was proprietor. In 1 82 1, Lancaster had a number of churches, THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 37 representing a diversity of religious views, and yet in spite of all this, the community has always been wonderfully free from religious controversy. The Mennonites, who were among the very first to come to the county, under the leadership of Hans Herr, and who became the first regularly organized denomination in the county, had thous- ands of members scattered through the city and county of Lancaster, one hundred years ago. The Amish, then as now, met in private houses. The Friends or Quakers had at least a half dozen meeting houses. The Lutherans had come to Lancaster prior to 1 730. The year of Lancaster's incorporation was the year of the Founding of Trinity Lutheran Church. The first church started in 1734 and dedicated in 1738 stood on the site now occupied by Trinity Chapel. When the Church of the Holy Trinity was rebuilt in 1766, Dr. Henry Melchior Muhlenberg preached the sermon. In this old church, the pipe organ, the frame of which is still one of the ornaments, was considered one of the magnificent instruments of the time. Con- cerning it a British prisoner in Lancaster in 1778 wrote '' The largest pipe organ in America is now in use at the Lutheran Church." Some of the officers went to see this wonderful piece of me- chanism, and sent descriptions of it to their homes. The manufacturer had made every part of it with his own hands. It is in this church that Thomas Wharton, President of the Su- 38 Lancaster's golden century preme Executive Council of Pennsylvania was buried with military honors in 1778; the pas- tor of this church, Dr. G. H. E. Muhlenberg was the first President of Franklin College in 1787; here Thomas Mifflin, the first Gov- ernor of Pennsylvania, was buried in 1800. In 1 82 1 the Rev. C. L. F. Endress was pastor. He was a man of fine literary culture, a fin- ished classical scholar, an author of no mean ability and a preacher of rare power. In 191 1, Trinity celebrated the 150th anniversary of the laying of the comer stone of its present hand- some house of worship. Old Trinity church has been one of Lancaster's central landmarks for generations past. The people of the Reformed Church had come into Lancaster early in the eighteenth century. The Ferrees, members of the Reformed Walloon Church settled in Lancaster County in 1712. With the Ferrees came Isaac Le Fever and brought with him his French Bible. In 1727 a number of Palatines came. As early as 1730 a congregation was organized at Lancaster and several other parts of the county. Before long Rev. Michael Schlatter of St. Gall, Switzerland came to America, and visited among other churches, those in Lancaster city and county. The first church edifice was dedicated in 1736. The earliest extant records are entitled : " Church Pro- tocol of the newly built Reformed church, here in the island of Pennsylvania, in Cannastoken, in the THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 39 new town named Lancaster." The record says, " Now as regards the building of this, our church, the beginning was made in the year 1736, and it was so far completed that on the 20th of June, 1736 upon the festival of Whitsuntide we held divine worship in it for the first time. This first church was a log building. It stood on the rear of the lot, near what is now the corner of Grant and Christian streets. The old log church was displaced by a second edifice in 1753. There is a tradition that the bell of the church when it was first procured hung for sometime upon a hickory tree in the neighborhood of Centre Square (probably the famed hickory tree where the Indians are said to have held their council), and was rung there until the steeple was built for it. In 1821 the pastor of the First Reformed church was the Reverend John Henry Hoifmeier. It is an interesting fact that there is still living in Lancaster a woman 97 years of age, who was baptized by Father Hoffmeier. He was a man of fine spirit, serving here in Lancaster for 25 years, from 1806 to 183 1. A marble panel in his memory is one of the ornaments of the present First Reformed church. The present church building with its handsome twin spires was erected in 1852. The Moravians were already settled in Lan- caster in 1 742, when Count Zinzendorf then head of the church, on his visit to America came to this city and preached in the old Lancaster Court 40 Lancaster's golden century House, " where he made such an impression that many people asked him to send them a regular preacher of his denomination." Bishop Spangen- berg presided at a meeting in the Lancaster Court House in 1745, after which the Moravians of Lancaster organized themselves into a congrega- tion and planned to build their own house of worship. They owned a large tract of valuable land on Prince street which they turned into a cemetery, and purchased additional lots from the original Hamilton estate on the south side of Orange street from Market street westward, on which they erected a plain stone building. A new brick structure was built in 1820. The ori- ginal cornerstone of the first building is still to be seen on the southeastern upper corner of the present structure. In fact the old stone build- ing is still standing and is '' the oldest church building left standing in the city, one of the few old landmarks that have not succumbed to the ravages of time, nor been defaced by the ruthless hand of so-called improvement." Dr. J. Max Hark in his History of the Old Moravian Chapel says '* Here, that gentle missionary hero, old John Heckewelder, more than once delighted the scholars of the school with his interesting talks to them about his own experiences with the In- dians. Here David Zeisberger addressed our fathers and thrilled them with his own zeal and love for his " dear brown hearts," and once at least there came with him that knight errant of \ THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 4I the mission field Frederick Post. It was in Au- gust, 1762 when a great Indian Treaty was be- ing held in this city. Our two missionaries came at the head of no less than 30 Indians, while 300 more, from all parts of the Province, were gath- ered together in an encampment just west of the town, and nightly terrified the inhabitants by the hideous noise of their drunken carousals. One evening these savages startled the little congre- gation exceedingly by appearing during the even- ing service and filling all the windows with their swarthy faces, some of them having large knives in their hands." In 1821 the Rev. Samuel Renike was pastor here. St. James Parish of the Episcopal Church, or- ganized in 1744 built its first structure in 1750, and erected a new church building in 1820, the southeast corner of the new building resting on the old foundation. It is said that when Bishop White dedicated the church on Sunday, October 15, 1820 he wore the attire of an English Bishop, black silk stockings and silver shoe buckles. The name of William Augustus Muhlenberg, Rector of St. James Parish, will always be linked with all that is best in the life of old Lancaster. It was largely through his efforts that a better school system was introduced into the city. The story goes too that in St. James' churchyard lie two sisters who died in early womanhood, both noted for their beauty and character, one of whom might have become the wife of James Buchanan, the 4^ LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTtfRl? other of William A. Muhlenberg, but for the un- willingness of their father, whose displeasure had been incurred by Mr. Muhlenberg because of the institution of an evening service. There is a record to the effect that when the Orphan Asylum in Philadelphia burned to the ground, the Episcopal Church of Lancaster raised 300 dollars on Janu- ary 31, 1822 to rebuild the institution. The Presbyterians had organized their congre- gation in Lancaster as early as 1763, and while their meeting house was being built on East Orange street on land granted by James Hamil- ton, the congregation met in the Court House. Rev. Mr. Sample was pastor for forty years, from 1780 to 1820, dividing his ministrations between the Presbyterian churches of Leacock, Lancaster and Middle Octorara. In 1820 the church was enlarged and improved. A newspaper of April 20, 1820 reports that " Divine Service may be ex- pected in the English Presbyterian meeting house in this city (the enlargement and alteration of which is now nearly completed) on the first Sabbath in May next at the usual hours." In 1 82 1 Rev. Wm. Ashmead was pastor. The first regular mission of the Roman Catholic Church in Lancaster was established by Jesuit Missionaries from Maryland, who visited an Indian trading post in this county, as early as 1730. The first church they erected in Lancaster was a log chapel. The church at Lancaster was first called " The Mission of St. John Nepomucene." THfi LANCASTER OF 1 821 43 It is not known just when the name was changed to "St. Mary's of the Assumption." In 1821 Father Holland was one of the two priests serving the parish. This man has an interesting history. Robert J. Thompson living on South Queen street had an attack of yellow fever. When scarcely any body would attend to his wants during his brief illness, the Rev. J. J. Holland, pastor of St. Mary's church, ministered to his wants, also contracted the disease, and died universally lamented. In St. Mary's cemetery a time-worn marble tomb marks the resting place of this young martyr- priest of St. Mary's, who at the age of 37 laid down his life for another. He was succeeded by Rev. Bernard Keenan who served St. Mary's Parish for a period of fifty-four years, and who according to an authoritative historian, ''endeared himself to all classes, both Catholics and Protes- tants, by his actions and languages, and by a beautiful charity." Methodist ministers first came to Lancaster County in 1 78 1 and formed the Lancaster Circuit a year later, under the appointment of Rev. William Partridge. In the city of Lancaster the Rev. Jacob Gruber preached occasionally about 1805. The first regular service held in town was at the house of Philip Benedict by Rev. Henry Boehm in 1807. A number of circuit preachers followed. In 1821 the Methodists had no regu- lar church home in Lancaster. For a time they held service in a room over the market house, in the public square on Market street. 44 LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY The Hebrew congregation in Lancaster has a history that is older than is commonly supposed. They had a society here prior to 1747. In that year the borough of Lancaster conveyed a half acre of land in the township of Lancaster " in trust for the Society of Jews settled in and about Lan- caster, to have and use the same as a burying- ground." This society is said to be the third in point of antiquity in the United States, the first having been in Newport, R. L and the second in New York City. One of the trustees to whom this lot was given was Joseph Simons, one of the richest and most prominent Indian traders in the province of Pennsylvania. For a time he had a store, about 1 740, at the southeast corner of Penn Square. He made frequent trips to the Ohio and Illinois country. He died in Lancaster in 1804 and on his tombstone in the old Hebrew burial ground, is this beautiful inscription " And Joseph gave up the Ghost, And died in a good old age. An old man and full of years And was gathered to his people." Joseph Simon, departed this life the 12th day of the month Shebot, in the year 5565, corresponding with the 24th of Jan. 1804, aged 92 years, in a good old age. " And he walked with God, and he was not ; for God took him." At the Portraiture Loan Exhibit in Lancaster in 1 91 2 there was exhibited a miniature of Rebecca Gratz, the granddaughter of Joseph THE LANCASTER OF 1 82 1 45 Simons. She was often in Lancaster, and tradi- tion says that she was the inspiration of Sir Walter Scott's heroine, Rebecca in " Ivanhoe." There was an interesting attempt made at the establishment of a Union church in Lancaster about a hundred years ago. John Eliot an Englishman came to this country and settled in Lancaster about 1816. For several years he preached in the old Friend's meeting house, then he decided to erect a church called the Union church. He purchased a lot on Chestnut street between Duke and Queen and erected a church. In May, 1822 the following notice appears in a Lancaster paper: " The building recently erected in the city by Christians of all denominations will, with Divine permission, be dedicated to the public worship of Almighty God on the second Sabbath of this month." It was a splendid dream of inter- denominational fellowship, but it failed. Thus we see some of the elements entering into the Lancaster of 1821. ''A map of busy life, its fluctuations and its vast concerns." This was the motto of a newspaper in those comparatively quiet times. Life was neither busy, nor were the con- cerns vast. And yet men laid solid foundations in those earlier days in business, education, reli- gion and government for the development of in- fluential cities and great Commonwealths. CHAPTER III A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT I THIN a few years after Lan- caster became a city there were marked signs of public improve- ment. In 1823 the following ordinance was passed: '' From and after July ist it shall be the duty of the inhabitants of the city of Lancaster to pave their sidewalks with brick." From this time on there are frequent records of the building of bridges and grading, turnpiking, paving and the extension of streets. The streets of course kept their English names, relics of royalty. King, Queen, Prince, Duke. It is an interesting fact that in 1846 a resolution was adopted by Councils " to consider the propriety of altering the names of the streets of the city so as to give them more of an American or republican stamp." But the change was never made. A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 47 The beginning to secure a regular water system for the city was made in 1822. Efforts were made for several years to discover a water supply. A committee was appointed to " search for water." In 1829 the Lancaster Water Co. was incorpor- ated, and in 1831 a number of progressive and public-spirited citizens seeing that nothing was being accomplished urged the formation of a new company and the trial of a new plan. A town meeting was held and the appointment of an engineer urged, but still nothing was definitely ac- complished until 1836, when the mayor was au- thorized to borrow seventy thousand dollars in order to carry the project into effect. Eight acres of land at the east end of King street were bought as a site for a reservoir, contracts were entered into for building a dam, trenches were dug in the streets, pipes laid, and by February 1837 water was brought into thp city. In 185 1 another reservoir was built, in 1882 a standpipe was erected for serving the higher parts of the city, and since then continuous improvements in the way of pumping stations and filtering plant have made the Lancaster Water Works a credit to the city and adequate to its needs. In days of yore a man's loyalty to his Fire Company was one of his chief sources of interest. There is a reference as far back as 1 744 to the use of ladders, hooks and buckets in the extinguishing of fires. In 1761 an engine house stood on West King street between Water and Mulberiy streets, 48 Lancaster's golden century In 1765 the burgesses agreed that a house be erected to contain three fire engines on the north- west corner of the market house. At the sugges- tion of the committees of the three fire companies, the Sun, Union and Friendship, an engine was im- ported from England. Active and public-spirited citizens did their best to defend the town from fire, in spite of crude and ineffective implements. Volunteer fire companies were in existence for over a century and formed the centre of a great deal of the social and political life of the citizens of the community. There was great rivalry as to the honor of priority between them. The quar- terly banquets which after 1830 were changed into yearly banquets were fixed institutions in Lancas- ter for many years. In 1820 the Washington Company was organized, in 1836 the American, in 1839 the Humane, in 1852 the Shiffler, in 1856 the Empire. In 1882 a paid city fire department was substituted for the volunteer system, and has since kept pace in equipment and efficiency with the development of the city and the needs of modern life. Among the great events of historical note in Lancaster in early days was the visit of General Lafayette. The citizens of Lancaster, not behind the rest of the nation in the expression of their gratitude toward this illustrious defender of liberty, invited him when he came to the United States in 1824-25 to honor their city by a visit. On July 27, 1825, he came to Lancaster and was A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 49 elaborately entertained by the people. In the morning of the halcyon day General Lafayette was met in Chester county by a committee of citizens from Lancaster. '' Three elegant barouches, each drawn by four fine horses, had been secured for conducting the General and his suite to Lancas- ter." As he entered Lancaster county he was re- ceived by an escort of cavalry and formally wel- comed as the guest of the county. Two miles east of Lancaster city a battalion of city infantry and the '' Strasburg Blues" received him. Young men with sashes and badges and cockades ranged under separate banners, troops of citizens on horseback, farmers with ears of wheat in their hats as emblems of plenty, thousands of citizens of all ages, joined in the welcome. There was a salute of thirteen guns as he entered the city and the band played " Hail Columbia." On King street an immense floral arch had been erected. At the corner of King and Duke streets, Lafayette was saluted by fifty veterans of the Revolution, lined up on a platform in front of the Farmer's Bank. The historian says, "As the General gazed on the veterans he said, * These are the wrecks of that gallant band that in the vigor of youth and full strength of manhood, stood by me, side by side in the hour of their country's peril : That country — that grateful country — will, smooth the pillow of their declining years.' " On another arch on King street was inscribed, " Hail, Friend 50 Lancaster's golden century of Liberty " and '' Brandywine, 1776 — Yorktown 1 781." There were a number of arches on West King street, some of them decorated with portraits of Washington, Wayne, Hand, Montgomery and Franklin. The procession then moved to Frank- lin College on the west side of North Queen street, between Lemon and James, the same building formerly known as " The Old Store House," built by the State of Pennsylvania early in the Revolu- tionary period for the housing of military sup- plies. From there Lafayette went to the hotel where he was welcomed by Mayor Lightner and given a dinner prepared by the ladies of Lancas- ter. In the evening a complimentary ball was given in his honor in Masonic Hall. He left the ball to attend a dinner given to him by the veterans of 1776 at the house of Leonard Eich- holtz. There Lafayette drank a toast to the memory of General Washington and then to the memory of Generals Warren, Montgomery, Mercer, Nash, Greene, Hand, Wayne, Gates, St. Clair, Morgan and " our departed female patriots." Next morning Lafayette visited the Lancastrian School at Prince and Chestnut streets and was greeted by several hundred boys and girls, who arose and sang as he entered the door, " Hero Hail ! all hail to thee Champion of our liberty." Later Lafayette dined with George Ross, son of the Signer of the Pecl^rat;ipn of Independence, A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 5^ who lived at the northwest corner of Prince and Prague streets. At four o'clock he went to the Court House and was given another banquet by a hundred citizens *' in the same room in which General Washington dined on his visit to the city." After a number of toasts to Lancaster and a variety of patriotic themes, Lafayette concluded with a classic toast to '' Our Fair Countrywomen." " Woman, the happiest pledge of Heaven's good will, Woman, the perfect picture of its skill ; Woman, who all our noblest thoughts employs, Woman, the center of all earthly joys." The next day he left for Baltimore on an ele- gant traveling carriage drawn by four gray horses, after which he went to Washington where he was the guest of the President of the United States. When the death of Lafayette occurred in 1834, no community felt the loss more keenly than did Lancaster. City councils ordered its halls to be draped in mourning for a period of six months. It was during the period under consideration that rapid improvements were made in transpor- tation which finally ended in bringing the railroad to Lancaster. In very early days of course pack horses were used as a means of transportation. The bridle paths were usually Indian trails. These were soon superseded by the King's High- ways, one of the most important of which was the " great road " from Philadelphia to Lancaster. Then cmne the turnpike period with th^ incorpor^ 52 Lancaster's golden century ation in 1792 of the Philadelphia and Lancaster Turnpike Road Co., and for a time the travel by- stage line became enormous. This turnpike to Philadelphia, 62 miles long was one of the earliest and most important enterprises in the state, and was the first road of the kind made in the United States. There were sixty taxerns on the route be- tween Lancaster and Philadelphia, almost one for every mile. This too was the period of the Conestoga wagon. It is not known who first made a Conestoga wagon, but it is given to Lancaster county to claim the honor. The wonderful breed of horses raised here, powerful draught horses, and the unique canvas-covered wagons were the special pride of the owners. The Conestoga wagon of the Revolution and post-Revolution period, known as, " The Ship of Inland Com- merce " was said to be far superior to anything of that date in England. Witmer's bridge, which was erected in 1799, and spans the Conestoga a short distance east of the city, was on the direct wagon route from Philadelphia to the western part of Pennsylvania. The ponderous Cones- toga team was superseded by the canal boat and railway car. Previous to this change, the turn- pike presented a busy scene — an almost unbroken procession of these wagons, " each of them drawn by six strong large horses, and many of the teams having a row of bells hanging over the collar of each horse." After the loss of their occupation, A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 53 because of the inroads of canals and railroads, the wagoners got up a song which ran as follows : " Oh, it's once I made money by driving my team, But now all is hauled on the railroad by steam. May the devil catch the man that invented the plan. For its ruined us poor wagoners, and every other man." Then came the experiment of the Conestoga Navigation Company, a canal scheme to use the waters of the Conestoga for receiving and send- ing goods to Baltimore and Philadelphia. By means of nine locks and slackwater pools, com- munication 1 8 miles in length was secured from Lancaster to Safe Harbor on the Susquehanna at the mouth of the Conestoga. By means of the tide- water canal to Port Deposit a navigable communi- cation was opened to Baltimore. This work was completed in 1829. Reigart's landing was a busy place in those days. Pleasure and packet boats, some sixty and seventy feet long, drawn by horses, conveyed passengers and merchandise to and fro from lock to lock. The slow and safe transportation by packet boat was soon displaced by the coming of the railroad. As early as 1826 the State Legislature granted a charter for the Columbia, Lancaster and Phila- delphia Railroad. Preliminary surveys were made by Major Wilson and Joshua Scott, of Lan- caster, who was considered one of the best civil engineers and draughtsmen in the state. By 54 LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY 1828 the engineers reported they had located twenty miles of the road east from Columbia, running in an almost straight line from Little Conestoga tO' Big Conestoga Creek, by way of what is now known as the '' Cut-off." Progressive citizens protested, obtained an appropriation of sixty thousand dollars from the state and had the survey changed so as to have the railroad run through Lancaster. The change necessitated the building of several important bridges. On the last day of March, 1834 three passenger coaches drawn by horses arrived at Columbia from Lan- caster, and three days thereafter the locomotive made its first trip. On the day appointed for the opening of the road from Columbia to Philadel- phia, Governor Wolf, members of the Legislature and other distinguished guests arrived at Colum- bia by way of canal from Harrisburg. *' The cars were in waiting " says the historian, " with locomotive attached and steam up. The cars were taken to Lancaster in one hour. When the dis- tinguished party passed over the road from Lan- caster to Philadelphia on April 16, 1834, they were met at every station with crowds of people who came from their farms and workshops to see the novel sight." W. B. Wilson in his histoiy of the Pennsylvania Railroad says that the first two locomotives commissioned on the same day were called the " Lancaster " and the '' Columbia." The weight of the " Lancaster " was 8 tons and was capable of drawing 56 tons, It took eight A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 55 hours to run from Columbia to Philadelphia, the expenses for the trip being $14.60, of which the engineer and his attendants received $4. In 1835 an act was passed authorizing the company to ex- tend the road to Mt. Joy and Harrisburg. In 1857 the Reading and Columbia Railroad was in- corporated. In the war with Mexico Lancaster county fur- nished a number of soldiers for the armies of General Scott and General Taylor. Many of the men served under Taylor at Palo Alto, Reseca de la Palma and Monterey, and under Scott at Vera Cruz and the campaign which led to the capture of Mexico City. Lieut. Luther and Lieut, (later Captain) Roland won honors and promotion in this war. A Lancaster writer describes among his memories a visit made to Lancaster by General Taylor, the twelfth President of the United States. It appears that he stopped here on his way to Washington. Around 1850 a group of municipal public buildings were erected in Lancaster including the present Court House, the prison at the east end of the city, Odd Fellows Hall, Fulton Hall and Franklin and Marshall College. It seems to have been a period of rapid growth for the city. It is said that a thousand residences were erected within a few years. By the inevitable march of progress the venerable historic Court House in Centre Square was outgrown, and in 1852 a site was se- cured at Duke and East King streets, contracts $6 Lancaster's golden century made and the present structure completed at a cost of $166,000. The Odd Fellows had been -meeting in a room rented in the old Museum building corner of Chestnut and North Queen streets, until 1846 when lots were purchased from ex-Judge Ellis Lewis one of which was occupied by the old Quaker church and the other used as a burial ground by the same society. Here a handsome building was dedicated in 1852 by the Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania. At that time there were 2500 members of that fraternity in the city. In speaking of lodges of olden times it is well to recall that Lodge No. 43 F. and A. M. ranks as one of the oldest Masonic organizations in America. When Major Andre was held here as a prisoner in 1775 he was known as a Mason. In 1798 it was agreed that the borough of Lan- caster was to build the first story and the lodge the second story of the building now known as City Hall. From 1800 to the present time the mem- bers have continued holding their meetings in the old hall. Some time prior to the building of the hall, the lodge was visited by George Washington, and later by Lafayette. In the hall to this day there is a set of implements in a case the frame of which was made from cedar wood growing over the grave of Washington at Mount Vernon. The building of the present Fulton Hall in 1852 on the site of the old Lancaster Jail on Prince street was an event of great significance in the development of Lancaster. The Lancaster County A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 57 Commissioners sold the site to Peter G. Eberman and Christopher Hager for $8,400. Later Chris- topher Hager became the sole owner. He at once began tearing down the old prison, and procured Samuel Sloane as architect, and John Sener as builder of Fulton Hall. Later Christopher Hager sold his interest to the Fulton Hall Association. The Examiner and Herald of May 5, 1852 says, " The new opera house to be erected is to be called Fulton Hall in honor of Robert Fulton the discoverer of the power of steam as applied to navigation, a native of Lancaster County. The proprietor has evinced a laudable pride in the com- memoration of one whom Lancaster county may feel pride in claiming as one of her most distin- guished sons." Fulton Hall was formally opened to the public on October 14, 1852, the principal address of the occasion being made by Judge Hayes. The speaker referred to the fact that new life was being infused into the city of Lan- caster by the erection of many buildings and that 5000 inhabitants had been recently added to the population. The wooden image of Robert Fulton which still stands above the doorway was carved by a Mr. Cannon of Philadelphia, and is an inter- esting if not highly artistic piece of work. In Fulton Hall a long line of distinguished actors, orators and musicians have appeared in the past seventy years. Ole Bull with his matchless violin, Joe Jefferson, Booth, Barrett, Madame Modjeska, Horace Greeley, Wendell Phillips, Henry Ward 58 Lancaster's golden century Beecher, John B. Gough, Adelina Patti, Woodrow Wilson, Sarah. Bernhardt, Nazimova, and a host of other notables have appeared in this historic old structure. The formal opening of Franklin and Marshall College was held in Fulton Hall on the 7th of June, 1853. This college was the result of the union of Franklin College of Lancaster and Mar- shall College of Mercersburg, Pa. At the open- ing of the new institution addresses were deliv- ered by Judge Hayes, Dr. J. W. Nevin and Bishop Potter. Until the new buildings were erected on '* College Hill," the students met in Franklin Col- lege on North Lime Street. At first there appear to have been frequent troubles between town and gown, due to the rivalry of the fire companies. It appears the students '' ran with the Union." Dr. E. V. Gerhart was the first president of the col- lege. Twenty-two acres were bought in the north- western part of the city and buildings erected. When the corner stone of the main building was laid on 24th of July, 1854 a procession marched from the old Franklin College to the new site and listened to an address by Dr. Henry Harbaugh. The new college was formally dedicated on the 1 6th of May, 1856. At the same time with the erection of the main building two literary society halls were built, at great sacrifice on the part of the students themselves. Since then numerous buildings have been erected, including the J. Watts de Peyster Library, and a handsome and A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 59 thoroughly equipped science building, an astron- omical observatory and an academy building. The area of the college grounds is now fifty-eight acres. Franklin and Marshall College does not pretend to do the work of a university or a techni- cal school. Its claim for patronage is that it is a thoroughly first-class American college, in which a careful foundation can be laid that will prepare young men for an intelligent pursuit of profes- sional studies, for the work of higher education and the business pursuits of life. The college has been in full sympathy with the progress of the age in art, science, literature and business under the leadership of its several presidents, Dr. E. V. Gerhart, Dr. J. W. Nevin, Dr. Thos. G. Apple, Dr. John S. Stahr and Dr. H. H. Apple. Frank- lin and Marshall College stands under the general care of the Reformed Church in the United States, but students of all faiths and creeds are found in its halls. The Yeates Institute of Lancaster was incor- porated in 1857. It had for its object the edu- cation of young men in all branches of academic courses of learning. The corporation was liber- ally endowed by Miss Catharine Yeates from whom it takes its name. Franklin and Marshall Academy continued in connection with the College until 1872 when the first building was erected for its own use. It is in the best sense a training school for boys who desire to go to college. 6o Lancaster's golden century The first State Normal School was erected at Millersville, Lancaster County in 1859. The Theological Seminary of the Reformed Church did not come to Lancaster until 1871, and therefore belongs to a later period. The person- ality and work of John Williamson Nevin, how- ever, belong to the period now under considera- tion. This distinguished theologian of Scotch- Irish ancestry came to Lancaster shortly after the removal of Marshall College of which he had been president. After residing in the city for a year, and making his home at Windsor Forge, near Churchtown for two years, he settled per- manently at Caernarvon Place. In the fall of 1861 he became professor of History and Aesthetics in Franklin and Marshall College, and in 1866 presi- dent of the institution, a position which he held for ten years. From 1876 to 1886 he continued to reside at Caernarvon Place. Dr. Nevin occu- pied high rank among the most distinguished men of his age. An eminent scholar, a profound theo- logian recognized on two continents, an independ- ent thinker, a vigorous writer, he exerted a power- ful influence. Another distinguished son of Lancaster of the pre-Civil War period was the Right Reverend Samuel Bowman, pastor of St. James' church from 1827 to 1858 when he was chosen Bishop of the Diocese of Pennsylvania. The whole community begged him to remain in Lancaster, and induced him to keep his residence here while performing A PERIOD OF DEVELOPMENT 6i his episcopal duties in the western part of the state. The Bishop Bowman Home was incor- porated in 1857 as an institution for the aged and infirm designed to provide for Christian people a comfortable home in the evening of life. The Home for Friendless Children was likewise estab- lished in 1859 by the efforts and contributions of Miss Mary Bowman and a number of citizens who were impressed with the necessity of rescuing from degradation and idleness children who were left without a proper protector. It is thus evident that along every line, material, intellectual, social and industrial, Lancaster made commendable progress in the period leading up to the Civil War. OLD BREW HOUSE CHAPTER IV JAMES BUCHANAN THE CITIZEN AMES BUCHANAN, the fifteenth President of the United States, was Lancaster's most distinguished citizen during a period of years that embraced some of the most significant and tragic events in the nation's history. In that wonderful year 1809, the year in which Alfred Tennyson, the most gifted poet who has used the English language since Wordsworth, was born, the year in which William Gladstone, the most powerful, versatile, and high-minded statesman of the nineteenth cen- tury, was born, the year in which Charles Darwin, the greatest naturalist, and the chief scientific dis- coverer of modern times, was born, the year in which Abraham Lincoln, the most picturesque and stimulating figure that America has given to the world's history, was born — in that same year a young Dickinson College graduate, only eighteen years of age, came into this community for the purpose of studying law, little conscious of the fact that the legal principles which he was to learn here were destined to be applied by him during the coming years in the attempted solution of some tm r *^r z2^/2e^ (2y^cc>^^€^z^<;'2-^d^^^^Z^ JAMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN 63 of the most difficult national and international problems of the century. That he made good use of the three years during which he was a law student in this city, previous to his admittance to the Bar, is evidenced by the fact that later in life when he wrote his autobiography, he said concern- ing this period, " I came to Lancaster to study law with the late Mr. Hopkins, in the month of December, 1809, and was admitted to practice in November, 1 812. I determined that if severe application would make me a good lawyer, I should not fail in this particular; and I can say, with truth, that I have never known a harder student than I was at that period of my life. I studied law, and nothing but law, or what was essentially connected with it. I almost every evening took a lonely walk and embodied the ideas which I had acquired during the day in my own language. This gave me a habit of extempore speaking." In 1 810, young Buchanan's father in a letter wrote to him, " I am very glad to hear that you are so well pleased with Lancaster and with the study of the law." It was in the year that saw the commencement of the War of 1812, under the Madison Administration, that James Buchanan was admitted to the practice of law at the Lan- caster County Bar — a Bar, which according to James Ford Rhodes, America's foremost historian, " has always been noted for its excellent lawyers." He Boon became a public figure in the community 64 Lancaster's golden century which he had chosen for permanent residence. He came into prominence in 1814 through a speech that he delivered at a public meeting in Lancaster, after the City of Washington had been captured by the British. As a Federalist in politics, he had disapproved of the war, but when the capture of Washington had sent a flame of patriotism through the state, and every patriot was called upon to defend the country against an invading enemy, and a public meeting was called in Lan- caster for the purpose of obtaining volunteers to march to the defense of Baltimore, James Buchanan, then twenty-three years of age, ad- dressed the people of the community in public and was among the first to register his name as a volunteer. With a company of dragoons he marched to Baltimore and served until he was honorably discharged. Upon his return, the County of Lancaster elected him a member of the House of Representatives in the Legislature of Pennsylvania, where he served with rare ability to the end of the session. From 1 816 to 1820 his law practice in this community increased rapidly. He writes, " My practice in Lancaster and some of the adjoining counties is extensive, laborious and lucrative." It was during this period that he de- livered before the Washington Society of Lancas- ter a speech which subjected him for the time to much criticism because of his antagonistic attitude to the administration at Washington in regard to its methods of conducting the War of 1812, JAMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN 65 When Buchanan's writings were collected and edited by John Basset Moore, only the concluding part of this oration could be found. It was printed in the first volume of Buchanan's works. The late W. U. Hensel, however, discovered by accident the opening part of the speech in time to have it inserted in the closing volume. The circumstances of this discovery probably gave as much durable satisfaction to the ardent historical spirit of Mr. Hensel as any event in his life. It was during this period, too, that Mr. Buchanan, when only twenty- five years of age, undertook alone to defend Judge Franklin on articles of impeachment which had been inspired against him largely by political bias and party asperity. It was during this period, too, that there came into his life in this community one. of the saddest romances that cruel fate ever inflicted upon a youth. As a distraction from his great grief, he plunged into public life again, accepted the nomin- ation to Congress, was elected on the Federalist ticket, and took his seat as the representative from this district when he was barely twenty-nine years of age. To this high office he was reelected every two years until 1830. It was his intention to re- tire from public life at the close of Congress, March, 1831. He was spoken of for the vice- presidency, but discouraged the idea by saying, " I shall retire to private life after the close of the present session, without casting on^ lingering look 66 behind. As a private citizen I shall always re- member with the deepest sensibility the many favors I have received from the people of the dis- trict, whom I have so long represented." But circumstances willed otherwise. President Jack- son appointed him Minister to Russia just at the time he was contemplating renewing the practice of law, for which he was so well fitted because of his competent learning, industry, ready address, reasoning power, and high integrity. In his diary for March 21, 1832, he has this significant paragraph : '' I left Lancaster in the stage early in the morn- ing for Washington and arrived in Baltimore the same evening. Although my feelings are not very easily excited, yet my impressions on this day were solemn and sad. I was leaving a city where I had spent the best years of my life, where I had been uniformly the popular favorite, and, above all, where I had many good and true friends who had never abandoned me under the most trying circumstances. Among these people I had ac- quired a competence for a man of moderate wishes, and I think I may say without vanity, my professional and personal character stood ver\^ high." In a letter from Russia, written during October of the same year, he speaks of the good city of Lancaster, and of his interest in all the little news of the town. From 1830 to 1848 it was possible for him to spend comparatively little of hi? time JAMES BUCHANAN, TPIE CITIZEN 6^ in this community because of his wide-spread pub- lic duties; for upon his return from Russia he was chosen United States Senator and continued to fill that office ten years, after which he became Secretary of State under President Polk. These were years of strenuous labor for Lancaster's fore- most citizen. In one letter he writes, *' nearly half of my time is now occupied in writing answers to mass, county, township and association meetings." During this period up to 1848, Mr. Buchanan, when at home in Lancaster, resided in a bachelor establishment, a spacious brick house on East King street. From 1849, when he retired to private life, after having been President Polk's Secretary of State, until 1853, when President Pierce appointed him as United States Minister to England, he spent a great deal of his time in this community. He left office March 4, 1849, with the fixed pur- pose of not entering public life again. With this in view he purchased that beautiful ideal of a statesman's abode known as '' Wheatland " situ- ated half a mile west of Lancaster. This sub- stantial old mansion had for some years been occu- pied as a summer residence by the Honorable Wil- liam M. Meredith, an eminent lawyer who became Secretary of the Treasury under President Taylor. Nothing shows the character of Mr. Buchanan in a higher light than the honorable way in which the purchase of " Wheatland " was conducted. From Mr. Buchanan's correspondence it appears that 6S Lancaster's golden century after the agreement for purchase had been made and part of the purchase money paid, Mr. Buchanan learned indirectly that Mr. Meredith regretted the bargain, upon which he sat down and wrote the following letter, which is a model of old-time courtesy. . . . "My dear Sir: I have seen Mr. Fordney since I came here, who read me a part of your second letter. From this I infer that you regret that you have parted with Wheatland. Now, my dear sir, if you have the least inclination to retain it, speak the word, and our bargain shall be as if it never had been. It will not put me to the least inconvenience, as I have an excellent house in Lancaster. Indeed I feel a personal interest in having you in the midst of our society, and if you should retain Wheatland I know that after you shall be satisfied with fame and fortune you will make this beautiful residence your place of permanent abode." To which Mr. Meredith replied with equal courtesy in the following words : " I had to express to you my deep sense of the courtesy and consideration which induced you to make me the offer which your letter contained. I cannot accept it, because to do so would be to take advantage of your friendly impulses, which I ought not and cannot do." That was a fine example of the square deal. Mr. Buchanan bought the property and removed to it JAMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN 69 the furniture which he had hitherto used in Wash- ington and Lancaster, establishing in his new home a residence noted for its comfort, dignity, repose, respectability, and hospitality. Though he had retired to private life during this short period, his life was by no means one of ease. He writes in 1851 from Wheatland, " My correspondence is now so heavy as to occupy my whole time from early morning until late at night. My life is now one of great labor, but I am philosopher enough not to be very anxious. The mass of letters before me is prodigious." At an- other time he writes, " I now receive about fifty letters a day. Last Saturday there were sixty- nine, and the cry is ' still they come '. I labor day and night." And yet he found time to do a great many things for the higher life of the community. This was the period in which Franklin College, of Lan- caster, was united with Marshall College, of Mercersburg, and the present institution, known as Franklin and Marshall College, was established by a union of the two. In bringing about that union Mr. Buchanan was of great service. He had been interested in Franklin College from an early date, and wrote the deed of transfer by means of w^hich the real and personal estate of Franklin College was transferred to the new Franklin and Marshall College. He is described at that tim^e as a man of portly form, with head inclined to one side, a peculiar top-knot of white 70 Lancaster's golden century hair that made him look older than the sixty-two years that he had actually lived. One writer says that courtesy had become his second nature and he spoke to boys on the street as if they had been princes of the blood. Naturally this foremost citizen of Lancaster was elected the first president of the newly constituted Board of Trustees of Franklin and Marshall College, an ofifice which he held for twelve years. He was a faithful friend of the college. As far back as 1827 his name ap- peared on the subscription list of old Franklin College, and when old Marshall College was still at Mercersburg Mr. Buchanan gave it a scholar- ship of $500.00, and when the new institution was formed in Lancaster he contributed $1,000.00 to ■ the fund which was then raised for the erection of buildings. He helped to direct the policy of the college, and when he was in Lancaster he was always present at its public exercises. At the literary society anniversaries he had a kind word for each youthful speaker, which the recipient was sure to bear away as a precious remembrance. When a new college building was to be erected at the time of the union of Franklin and Marshall College, the citizens of Lancaster contributed $25,000.00. Then came the question where should the new building be erected. Some suggested a tract on West Orange street; others suggested a location at the eastern end of the city. When this site was proposed. President Buchanan said, " I do not think the best location for a literary in- J-AMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN ft stitution is between a court house and a jail." One day Mr. Buchanan and the other members of the board went to the northwestern part of Lan- caster in carriages and unanimously decided to erect the buildings on what is now known as College Hill, the highest ground in Lancaster. " Thank God," said Dr. Harbaugh at the laying of the corner-stone, " the college stands higher than the jail. Education must be lifted up, and crime let sink to its lowest depths." During these years, Mr. Buchanan enjoyed the fullest confidence of the community and found great satisfaction in the hours that he spent at Wheatland. He writes to a friend, '' The birds are now singing around the house, and we are en- joying the luxury of a fine day in the opening spring." In 1853 he was again thrown into active public life by being appointed United States Minister to England under the administration of President Pierce. Before he left for London, he wrote a letter to the citizens of the community in answer to an invitation which he had received to be present at a public dinner to be given in his honor. In this letter he opens his heart to the citizens of Lancaster. Among other things he says, " No event of my past life has afforded me greater satisfaction than this invitation, proceed- ing as it does, without distinction of party, from those who have known me the longest and known me the best. "J 2 Lancaster's golden century '' Born in a neighboring county, I cast my lot among you when little more than eighteen years of age, and have now enjoyed a happy home with you for more than forty-three years, except the intervals which I have passed in the public service. During this long period I have experienced more personal kindness, both from yourselves and from your fathers, than has, perhaps, ever been ex- tended to any other man in Pennsylvania who has taken so active a part, as I have done, in the ex- citing political struggles which have so peculiarly marked this portion of our history. '' It was both my purpose and desire to pass the remainder of my days in kind and friendly social intercourse with the friends of my youth and of my riper years, when invited by the President of rriy choice, under circumstances which a sense of duty rendered irresistible, to accept the mission to London. This purpose is now postponed, not changed. It is my intention to carry it into exe- cution, should a kind Providence prolong my days and restore me to my native land." From London he wrote, '' Everything about home is dear to me. You give me information concerning my neighbors in Lancaster, which I highly prize." While in England, this Lancaster citizen had the degree of Doctor of Civil Law conferred on him by Oxford University along with the poet, Alfred Tennyson. He returned from London to xA^merica, arriving at Wheatland in April, 1856. Within two months he was asked to James buchanan, the citizen yj accept the Democratic nomination for the presi- dency. Dr. Dubbs tells us in his history of Frank- lin and Marshall College that when Mr. Buchanan was nominated for the presidency by the Cincin- nati convention, the college boys became intensely excited. A number of them were among the first to hear the news, and they all immediately started on a run to inform Mr. Buchanan of his nomin- ation. In this race, William A. Duncan, after- wards a member of Congress, is said to have won the prize. Very soon, however, a large number of people gathered on the lawn at Wheatland, and Mr. Buchanan made an appropriate speech, a part of which was afterwards used against him in the campaign. After his election, and before his inauguration for the presidency, Wheatland became a storm center or a shrine, if you wish to call it by that name, for the politicians and prominent men of the country. When the time came to leave Wheat- land for the Capitol, just before the inauguration, Mr. Buchanan and the members of his bachelor household drove into Lancaster in a carriage, on a bleak winter morning, escorted all the way to the railroad station by an enthusiastic crowd of citizens. At the station he was received, his bio- grapher tells us, '' into a special car, built for the occasion, the windows of which were in colors that represented familiar scenes of and about Wheat- land." His immediate escort to the Capitol consisted 74 Lancaster's golden century of the local military company, the Fencibles, com- mittees of councils, representatives of Franklin and Marshall College, and of the Board of Trus- tees of that institution, together with a number of personal friends and loyal citizens of Lancaster. Upon his return from Washington in i86i, after living in the fierce light that beats upon the throne, during one of the most disheartening and tragic periods of our Nation's history, he turned once more to Wheatland in the good old town which was bound up with every fibre of his heart. For he loved Lancaster with that intensity of local aifection and lofty pride which are peculiar to her citizens. A committee of citizens went to Washington to escort him back to the native soil. At the gates of his own county he was welcomed by one hundred and fifty citizens of Lancaster when his foot first fell upon the soil of the district which claimed him peculiarly as its own. The late Mr. Hensel has described the scene with these words, '*As the train which carried Mr. Buchanan and his friends and the popular escort now swelled to many hundreds, neared the city there was firing of cannon, pealing of bells, and the formation of a procession to escort the party through the streets of the city. The cars were stopped at the city limits, and Mr. Buchanan was conducted into an open barouche drawn by four gray horses, and with a great civic and military display he entered the city.'' The band played '* Home Again," the mayor welcomed Lancaster's JAMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN 7S most distinguished citizen in a fitting speech, to which Mr. Buchanan responded in words that ought to live in the heart and memory of gener- ations to come. This is what he said, '* Mr. Mayor, my old Neighbors, Friends and Fellow- Citizens : I have not language to express the feelings which swell in my heart on this occasion; but I do most cordially thank you for this demonstra- tion of your personal kindness to an old man, who comes back to you ere long to go to his final rest. And here let me say that, having visited many foreign climes, my heart has ever turned to Lancaster as the spot where I would wish to live and die. When yet a young man, in far remote Russia, my heart was still with friends and neighbors in good old Lancaster. (Applause.) "Although I have always been true to you, I have not been so true to you as you have been to me. Your fathers took me up when a young man, fostered and cherished me through many long years. All of them have passed away, and I stand before you to-day in the midst of a new generation. (A voice in the crowd — ' I saw you mount your horse when you marched to Balti- more in the War of 1812.') The friendship of the fathers for myself has descended on their children. Generations of mortal men rise, and sink, and are forgotten, but the kindness of the past generation to me, now so conspicuous in the present, can never be forgotten. ^b LAI^C ASTER S GOLDEN CENTtJRV " I have come to lay my bones among you, and during the brief, intermediate period which Heaven may allot me, I shall endeavor to per- form the duties of a good citizen, and a kind friend and neighbor. My advice shall be cheer- fully extended to all who may seek it, and my sympathy and support shall never be withheld from the widow and the orphan. (Loud Ap- plause.) All political aspirations have departed. What I have done, during a somewhat protracted public life, has passed into history. If, at any time, I have done aught to offend a single citizen, I now sincerely ask his pardon, while from my heart I declare that I have no feeling but that of kindness to any individual in this county. •'' I came to this city in 1809, more than half a century ago, and am, therefore, I may say, among your oldest citizens. When I parted from Presi- dent Lincoln, on introducing him to the Execu- tive Mansion, according to custom, I said to him : ' If you are as happy, my dear sir, on enter- ing this house as I am in leaving it and return- ing home, you are the happiest man in this country ! ' " At the conclusion of the speech, the procession moved toward Wheatland under an arch span- ning the street. He ascended the portico to the music of " Home, Sweet Home," and reentered upon the scenes of that tranquility in which it was his desire to spend the rest of his days. He always regarded that day as one of the proudest of his life. JAMES BUCHANAN, THE CITIZEN ^^ To the end of his days he remained the vener- able sage of Wheatland. To his home hundreds made pilgrimage. For all he had words of wel- come and counsel. Those who knew him still speak of the affluence of his kindly humor, of his grace and urbanity, of his personal integrity, of the purity of his mind, the honor of his spirit, the beauty of his character, the loveliness of his charity. A friend says, '' On one occasion when I was on a visit to Wheatland, I saw Mr. Buchanan go anxiously to the window and look upon the night which was cold and stormy with sleet and snow, and I heard him say, ' God help the poor to-night.' The very next day he sent quite a large sum of money to the mayor of Lancaster to buy fuel for the poor." He carried out the same idea, when in his Will he made provision for a coal fund which has proved to be a blessing to many needy families in this community for well- nigh fifty years. His deeds of charity were thick as autumnal leaves that strew the brooks in Vallambrosa. Those who knew him best speak constantly of his delightful social qualities. He was always the life and soul of every dinner party to which he was invited. Says one, " When he was in a vein of conversation and felt in the humor a whole room of people would sit all evening listen- ing with delight, no one daring to interrupt ex- cept in order by some leading question or remark to draw him out to talk more freely." 7§ Lancaster's golden century No one can study the life of James Buchanan, especially in his later years, without having a high regard for his religious sincerity. When he was a mere boy studying Coke and Blackstone here in Lancaster, his father wrote to him these words, " Endeavor, my boy, to merit the esteem of Heaven.'' He never forgot that sentence. Later in life he wrote to his niece, Harriet Lane, in a very interesting letter penned at Wheat- land, " li I believed it necessary, I would advise you to be constant in your devotion to your God. He is a friend who will never desert you." He was a regular attendant upon church services both at Washington and in Lancaster, connecting him- self in this city with the Presbyterian church. John Motley says of William of Orange, that he went through life bearing the load of a people's sorrows upon his shoulders with a smiling face. That not all the clouds which calumny could col- lect ever dimmed to the eyes of a grateful and affectionate people the radiance of that loity mind to which they were accustomed in their darkest calamities to look for light, *'As long as he lived," says Motley, " he was the guiding star of a whole brave nation, and when he died the little children cried in the streets." So we may say that as far as this community is con- cerned James Buchanan was its guiding star and most illustrious citizen for half a century. li good citizenship consists, as a great living states- man recently said in an impressive tribute to JAMES BUCHANAN, TPIE CITIZEN 79 Richard Watson Gilder, by no means in the hold- ing of public office, but in the wholesomeness and purity of one's life and in the quiet influence which radiates from one's life upon his neighbors and the community, in culture and acquaintance with the best, then we may well say that James Buchanan was a citizen of whom any commun- ity may be proud, a highly gifted, large-hearted, devoted citizen, a man plain and simple, yet crowned with the knightly virtues of truth, honor, purity and high-minded integrity. The fine old colonial mansion known as *' Wheatland," built on a knoll within the grounds of a small landed estate and surrounded by trees several centuries old, is still standing. Few per- sons visit Lancaster for the first time without making a pilgrimage to this historic spot, which in the hands of its present owner has lost none of its generous hospitality. In Woodward Hill on the slopes that reach down to the Conestoga, at a point from which may be seen some of the loveliest views of that lovely stream as it meanders among the flower-decked hills of Lancaster county, rest the remains of James Buchanan, Fifteenth President of the United States. ARCHED SPRING AT GEO. ROSS HI)USE CHAPTER V LANCASTER AND THE CIVIL WAR HE Legislature of Pennsylvania passed an Act in 1 780 declaring that all servitude for life or slavery of children in con- sequence of the slavery of their mothers should be abolished forever. There was considerable evasion of the law. The Quakers were active in their opposition to slavery, but some of the Scotch- Irish settlers in the Lancaster Townships continued to hold slaves. A number of fugitive slaves fled from the South into Pennsylvania. They were followed by their masters. There were many hairbreadth escapes and captures at Colum- bia where runaway slaves crossed the river. In the newspapers of Lancaster of a hundred years ago one finds the following notices : " Thirty Dollars reward for negro man, John LANCASTER AND THE CIVIL WAR 8 1 Turner, ran away." " Twelve and a half cents reward. Ran away on April 20, 1822, a servant boy named James Crawford." '' Six and a fourth cents reward. Ran away from Peter Esbenshade a servant girl. Had on and took with her one new calico and one good linsey frock." '' For sale, the unexpired term of six years of a young healthy black girl." While these may not all have been slaves, yet it is evident that there was a strong underground railroad system in Lancas- ter county, helping negroes to escape from slavery in the South to freedom in the North. There were a number of stations along the route where the friends of the escaped slaves passed the fugi- tives on from one point to another. The passage of the Fugitive Slave Law of 1850 made this whole system not only hazardous but illegal. The first bloodshed in the United States caused by the Fugitive Slave Law occurred in Christiana, Lancaster county. Three runaway slaves came to the house of William Parker, near Christiana. They were claimed by Edward Gorsuch, a Maryland slave holder who obtained a warrant from the United States commissioners in Philadelphia for their arrest. When the marshal, Gorsuch, his son and several others came to Parker's house before daylight on Sep- tember II, 185 1 and tried to take away the runaway slaves by force, they met with opposi- tion. Gorsuch approaching the house cried: *' I will have my property dead or alive." He 82 was fired upon and mortally wounded. The son was likewise seriously wounded. The affair created great excitement. The state was in the midst of a political campaign, and it is thought that the incident caused the defeat of Wm. F. Johnston for governor. The negro who shot his master was smuggled through to Canada; the others were indicted and tried for treason in the United States Court at Philadelphia. Han- way was first tried and acquitted. The others were never brought to trial. It is thought now that under the excitement of the times it would not have been possible to get a jury in the State of Pennsylvania to convict the men for asserting their freedom. The " Christiana Riot " is scarcely less known or less significant than John Brown's riaid and the Harper's Ferry riot. It was the oc- casion of one of the opening battles in the cease- less conflict between Law and Liberty which reached a climax in the stirring days of the Civil War. The heaviest vote ever given for any candidate in Lancaster county up to i860 was cast for Abra- ham Lincoln in November of that year. Out of nineteen thousand votes cast by Lancaster county for the presidency in i860, Abraham Lincoln received over thirteen thousand. It was there- fore of more than usual interest when the citizens of Lancaster were informed on February 20, 1861, " It is now certain that Mr. Lincoln will be in Lancaster on Friday next. He will arrive about LANCASTER AND THE CIVIL WAR 83 noon and remain but a short time, but probably long enough to make a speech to the citizens of the Old Guard." On his way from the White House from Springfield the President-elect passed through New York, Trenton, Philadelphia, Lancaster and Harrisburg. From the Examiner and Herald of Wednesday, February 27, 1 861, we take the fol- lowing account of Mr, Lincoln's stay in Lancaster. " Previous to leaving Philadelphia the com- mittee appointed on behalf of the citizens of Lancaster had an interview with Mr. Lincoln and were supplied v/ith tickets which enabled them to travel on the special train. The committee con- sisted of Messrs. O. J. Dickey, Bartram A. Shaeffer, C. M. Howell, Robert H. Long, John F. Huber, H. W. Hager, Dr. T. Ellmaker, A. H. Hood, J. M. W. Geist, D. Fellenbaum, and E. J. Zahm. At all the stations large crowds had as- sembled to look at the President-elect. As the train neared Lancaster a national salute was fired from cannon stationed near the locomotive works. The train arrived at about noon. The crowd in attendance was immense and had it not been for the arrangements made by Captain Hambright it would have been impossible for Mr. Lincoln to have made his way to the Caldwell House (The Brunswick)." Mr. Lincoln passed from, the cars to the balcony of the Caldwell House where he was introduced to the crowd by Mr. Dickey and made the following brief and characteristic speech. 84 Lancaster's golden century He said : " Ladies and Gentlemen of Old Lan- caster: I appear not to make a speech. I have not time to make a speech at length, and not strength to make them on every occasion, and worse than all, I have none to make. I come be- fore you to see and be seen, and as regards the ladies I have the best of the bargain, but as to the gentlemen, I cannot say as much. There is plenty of matter to speak about in these times, but it is well known that the more a man speaks the less he is understood, — the more he says one thing his adversaries contend he meant something else. I shall soon have occasion to speak officially, and then I will endeavor to put my thoughts just as plain as I can express myself, — true to the constitution and union of all the states, and to the perpetual liberty of all the people. Until I so speak there is no need to enter upon details. In conclusion, I greet you most heartily, and bid you an affectionate farewell." It was indeed Lincoln's farewell to Lancaster, for when he passed through here again on April 21, 1865, his body rested in a heavily draped funeral car, and the sorrowing crowds stood with uncovered heads while the train passed. But between these two events Lancaster showed its loyalty to Lincoln and his cause by a remarkable response to the call of the Union for troops in the war of the rebellion. When Sumter was fired on, and Lincoln called for 75,000 volun- teers, the enrollment in Lancaster commenced at LANCASTER AND TPIE CIVIL WAR 85 once. Within less than a week the Lancaster Fencibles and the Jackson Rifles went to Harris- burg and were made a part of the First Regiment. Within a month thirty-two companies were formed in the city and county. All through the war at every call there was a ready response. The well known 79th Regiment commanded by Col. Hambright was composed wholly of volun- teers and took part in the battle of Chickamauga, and in Sherman's march. Soldiers from Lancas- ter county were found in sixty other regiments from Pennsylvania. They were found also in the militia regiments called during the Confeder- ate invasions of Maryland and Pennsylvania. The greatest excitement prevailed in 1863 just before the battle of Gettysburg. On the 27th of June, General Early reached York with a force of Confederate soldiers and the next day a brigade was sent to hold the bridge at Columbia. Several companies from Columbia crossed to Wrights- ville, but having no artillery they were compelled to come back. Col. Prick set the bridge on fire in order to prevent it from falling into the hands of the southern army. Great alarm was felt. Detachments of the southern army had reached the Susquehanna and no one could tell how soon they might enter Lancaster. Long lines of refugees passed through the city, leading horses which they sought to save from the invaders. Then came Gettysburg and men breathed easier. But alas the news came that at Gettysburg, Lan- S6 Lancaster's golden century caster's great war hero Major General John Fulton Reynolds was killed. This worthy son of Lancaster was educated in the schools of his native city, graduated with honors from West Point, was breveted captain for bravery at Monterey, and advanced to the position of major for gallantry at Buena Vista in the Mexican War. At the outbreak of the Civil War he was ap- pointed Brigadier-General of volunteers and was given the command of the First Brigade of the Pennsylvania Reserves. General Pope said of him in his report: ''Brigadier General John F. Reynolds commanding the Pennsylvania Reserves, merits the highest commendation at my hands. Prompt, active, and energetic, he commanded his division with distinguished ability and performed his duties in all situations with zeal and fidelity." He was called to Harrisburg to organize the 75,000 men called out by Governor Curtin in 1862. After joining the Army of Virginia, he fought at the battle of Fredericksburg. On the opening day of the battle of Gettysburg he was in command of the left wing of the army. He knew that General Meade wanted to fight a de- cisive battle, so he pushed forward to secure an advantageous position. This brought on pre- maturely perhaps the great battle of Gettysburg. General Reynolds' riding at the head of Wads- worth's division, at the head of the column to direct and encourage the troops proved to be a conspicuous mark for the bullets of skirmishers. LANCASTER AND THE CIVIL WAR Sy He was shot through the neck, fell mortally wounded and died before he could be removed from the field. His biographer says, " General Reynolds was one of America's greatest soldiers ; the men he commanded loved him dearly; he shared with them the hardships, toil and danger of the camp, the march and the field. He nobly laid down his life a sacrifice on his country's altar, at the head of his brave troops that victory might crown the efforts of those who followed him to fight the great battle of the Nation." His body was carried to Lancaster and buried in the family enclosure in the Lancaster Cemetery on the 4th of July, 1863, where a handsome monu- ment was later erected to commemorate his patriotic services. Every visitor to Gettysburg knows of the handsome statue erected to the memory of General Reynolds on that immortal battle field. Would that it were possible to pay just tribute to the many noble sons of Lancaster county who fought for the Union in the days of the Rebellion. The blood of the sons of Lancaster is found on every battlefield of the great war. The follow- ing are just a few of the regiments in which they served, the First Penna., 2nd, 5th, loth, 15th, 23rd, 30th, 31st, 34th, 45th, 50th, 59th, 77th, 79th (called the Lancaster County Regiment), 92nd, 99th, 107th, 113th, 122nd, 135th, 162nd, 178th, 179th, 182nd, 195th, 197th, 203rd, 207th, 214th, 215th, Independent Battery I 3rd U. S. S8 Lancaster's golden century (colored), 2nd militia, 47th militia, 50th emer- gency, and a number of others. And as to the citizens at home, they gave their moral support to the army in the field with won- derful enthusiasm. To the women of Lancaster belongs the honor of organizing the first society to help in the relief of the soldiers during the period of the Civil War. Similar societies later came into existence in all parts of the country, but so far as is known, none preceded the one formed here on the 22nd of April, 1861, only ten days after the attack on Fort Sumter. On this date a meeting of the women of Lancaster was held in the Court House, at which it was re- solved, '' that an association of ladies be formed under the style and title of ' The Patriotic Daughters of Lancaster ' for the purpose of min- istering to the wants of our heroic volunteers from Lancaster City and County." The necessary com- mittees were appointed at once, all details ar- ranged for the successful carrying out of the plans of the association, and without delay the bene- volent work of the patriotic girls and women be- gan, which continued steadily throughout the war to provide the soldiers in the field and the sick in distant hospitals with those comforts which the government was unable to furnish. For a time too the government used the build- ings of Franklin and Marshall College and the Halls of the Goethean and Diagnothian Literary Societies as hospitals for the wounded. LANCASTER AND THE CIVIL WAR §9 The name and fame of Major- General S. P. Heintzelman and his services in the Union army during the Civil War also belong to the credit of Lancaster. Upon the recommendation of James Buchanan, this young Manheim boy was admitted to West Point and was graduated with honors in 1826. He served with distinction in the Mexican War. In the Civil War he took part in the Battle of Bull Run, and commanded the Third and Fourth Army corps in the Seven Days' Battle before Richmond. He held high and im- portant positions throughout the war, attaining the rank of Major- General of Volunteers and Brevet Major-General of the Regular Army. The veterans of the Union army upon their re- turn from the Civil War, already found a project on foot among the citizens for the erection of a monument in honor of the soldiers and sailors of Lancaster county who fell in the service of their country. The Patriotic Daughters of Lancaster took the lead in this project. It was not how- ever until 1874 that the Soldiers and Sailors Monument of Lancaster County now standing in Centre Square was dedicated. On the four pedestals of the monument are four statues repre- senting the several branches of the service — the infantry, artillery, cavalry and navy. The names of the following battle fields are carved in high relief: Gettysburg, Antietam, Malvern Hill, Vicksburg, Wilderness, Chaplin Hills, Chicka- mauga, Petersburg. The shaft is surmounted by go Lancaster's golden century a figure representing the genius of liberty, with a shield of victory, bearing the arms of the United States and grasping a drawn sword. The inscription reads : " Erected by the people of Lan- caster County to the memory of their fellow- citizens who fell in the defense of the Union in the War of the Rebellion, 1861-1865." rm. / ^^^^-^ CHAPTER VI NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN EN and women who have risen to the rank of distinction have never been wanting in Lancaster. The Bench and Bar of Lancaster County have been conspicuous throughout the Commonwealth and the Nation for ability, eloquence and success. From here Buchanan went to the presidency and Thaddeus Stevens to the leadership in Congress. From Lancaster County, Jasper Yeates, William Augustus Atlee, Molton C. Rogers, Ellis Lewis and J. Hay Brown became Justices of the Supreme Court, the last named having just finished a long term as Chief Justice. Amos Ellmaker, Thomas E. Franklin, Benjamin Champneys and W. U. Hensel were Attorney- Generals of the Common- wealth. From here Captain Wm. Frazer was sent by President Jackson to be one of the Su- preme Court Judges for the new territory of Wis- consin, and Colonel Reah Frazer became a potent factor in the national conventions for a gener- ation. The Lancaster Bar has filled the position of Deputy Attorney- General of the State accept- ably at least thirteen times from the days of Wm. Jenkins in 1808 to the appointment of B. J. Myers, Esq., of our own time. At present Lancaster 92 Lancaster's golden centurV County is also making its contribution to the State in the services of Wm. H. Keller, Esq., Justice of the Superior Court. Two sons of Lancaster County have graced the office of Governor of the State, Simon Snyder in 1808 and our present Governor, William C. Sproul, who was born at Octoraro. The Hon. Frank B. McClain filled the positions of Speaker of the House and of Lieutenant-Governor of the State. Amos H. Mylin was Auditor- General. The Hon. W. W. Griest was Secretary of the Commonwealth and is serving on important Com- mittees in Congress. Worthy of mention, too, is the name of Simon Cameron, born in Maytown, elected United States Senator in 1856, appointed Secretary of War by President Lincoln, and later selected as Minister Plenipotentiary to Russia. To medicine Lancaster County has contributed Dr. John Light Atlee, one of the founders of the Pennsylvania Medical Society in 1848 and presi- dent thereof in 1857, one of the organizers of the American Medical Association and president thereof in 1882, professor of Anatomy and Physiology in Franklin and Marshall College, a man who for sixty-five years practised successfully in surgery. Another of the most widely known surgeons in the United States, also a son of Lan- caster County was Dr. Daniel Hayes Agnew, founder of the School of Operative Surgery in Philadelphia. Dr. Agnew received his prepara- tory course in medicine under his father who was NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN 93 then a physician of high repute in Lancaster County. Few men have received higher distinc- tion than he in the medical world. He was one of the surgeons who attended President Garfield, after he was shot. Then there was Dr. Frederick Augusus Muhlenberg, who in earlier days was a student under Dr. Benjamin Rush and later be- came one of Lancaster's noted physicians; also Dr. B. S. Barton who succeeded Dr. Rush. Dr. John H. Musser, of Philadelphia, noted specialist and Dr. John B. Deaver, of the University of Pennsylvania, one of the greatest living authori- ties in certain lines of surgery, trace their im- mediate ancestry to Lancaster County. In contributions to theology, Lancaster has maintained a leading place through the labors and printed contributions of men who have in- fluenced thought in a wide area, notably Dr. John W. Nevin, Dr. E. V. Gerhart, Dr. Thomas G. Apple, Dr. F. C. Gast, Dr. Wm. Rupp, in a former generation. Their work is being con- tinued by Dr. George W. Richards, president of the Theological Seminary in Lancaster and by his colleagues. All these men have made recognized contributions to the literature of American Theology. To education, Lancaster has given the services of three State Superintendents of Public Schools, James P. Wickersham, E. E. Higbee, and Nathan C. Schaeffer; of Thomas H. Burrowes, the father of the free school system of Pennsylvania; of 94 Lancaster's golden century Dr. John S. Stahr, for many years president of Franklin and Marshall College; of Dr. Henry H. Apple, president of the college since 1910, a member of the College and University Council of Pennsylvania, former president of the Association of College Presidents of the State; of John Beck, pioneer educator and of his grandson, Professor H. H. Beck, whose articles on ornithology have been reprinted by the Smithsonian Institute; of Dr. H. J. Roddy, who has written an illuminating w^ork on the physical and industrial geography of Lancaster County ; of Miss Emma Bolenius, whose text-books on English are used throughout the nation; of Dr. R. K. Buehrle, for many years cit\^ superintendent of education, and of Dr. J. P. McCaskey, editor for many years of the Penn- sylvania School Journal and principal of the Boy's High School. To scientific scholarship Lancaster has also given in the line of National History the services of David Ramsay, one of the first American Historians, and in the development of the History of the Commonwealth, Dr. J. H. Dubbs, Frank R. Diffenderfer, Litt.D., the Hon. W. U. Hensel, and the Hon. Charles L Landis. Other notable names in scholarship are those of Lindley Murray, the English grammarian, whose grammar of the English language was for years the best authority on the subject; of F. V. Melsheimer, the father of American Entomology; of S. S. Rathfon, whose researches in Entom.ology extended through- NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN 95 out the world, and who was recognized by numer- ous foreign societies for his attainments as a naturalist; of S. S. Haldeman, noted naturalist and linguist, author of 150 different works, one of which on '' Species and their Distribution " was favorably commented upon by Charles Darwin in the preface of his work '* The Origin of Species " ; of John K. Small head Curator of the Herbarium of New York Botanical Gardens, author of a number of books and hundreds of monographs on Botany, one of which, " The Flora of Lancaster County " is of especial interest to this community. In the field of literature we are proud to men- tion that Lloyd Mifflin, one of the masters of American song, acknowledged by two continents as the foremost living writer of sonnets, is a native and resident of Lancaster County. In fiction there belong to the credit of Lancaster County the realistic and popular novels of Reginald Wright Kauffman, the stories of Mary Brecht Pulver and John W. Appel's charming narrative of " The Light of Parnell." It is also worth not- ing that Helen Reimensnyder Martin, one of whose works has been dramatised and played by Mrs. Fiske, is a native of Lancaster. To hymnology Lancaster has given the songs of Henry Harbaugh, notably, '' Jesus, I live to Thee " ; Muhlenburg's, *' I would not Live Al- way '' ; Higbee's Ascension H!ymn " Jesus O'er the grave Victorious ", and Miss Alice Nevin's stir- ring hymn tune to the words, " The Lord of Life is Risen ". g6 Lancaster's golden century To art, Lancaster has contributed the portrait painter Jacob Eichholtz, who was a student under Gilbert Stuart and who painted more than 250 portraits. Among his subjects were Chief Justices Marshall and Gibson and many of the foremost people of his day. Then there was Lewis Rein- gruber, a distinguished fresco painter and decor- ator; and Leon Von Ossko, who had a studio in Lancaster for twenty years; and J. Augustus Beck, who is represented in the Pennsylvania Historical Society Galleries by over fifty portraits of promi- nent people of the state and in the Washington Monument by a group of sculptured figures repre- senting " Hippocrates Refusing the Bribe." Among the living representatives of Lancaster County in the field of art we note Miss Blanche Nevin, sculptress of the statue of Muhlenburg at the Capitol in Washington, D. C, Helen Mason Grose and Helen Thurlow whose delightful il- lustrations in leading American magazines were largely produced on the soil of Lancaster County. Associated with business of a decidedly more than local nature are the names of a long list of men connected either by birth, training or resi- dence with this community. Among those whose influence has reached over the widest area are Frank W. Woolworth, founder of the Woolworth chain of stores, Edwin M. Herr, the head of the Westingho'Use Electric and Manufacturing Co., and Joseph H. Appel, head of the Wanamaker store of New York. Worthy of note, too, is the NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN 97 fact that Mr. J. W. B. Bausman has served as president of the Pennsylvania Bankers' Associa- tion and that Mr. Eugene L. Herr as president of the American Booksellers' Association and the late Isaac H. Weaver as President of the Ameri- can Cigar Leaf Tobacco Association. To journalism Lancaster has given Colonel J. W. Forney, founder of the Philadelphia Press and the charmingly intimate essays of '' Bob " Risk. To military affairs she has given a legion of gallant men from the days when John Joseph Henry started out for Quebec and gave us the most interesting account v^^ritten of Arnold's ex- pedition to the days of Major- General William Murray Black, Chief of the Engineers of the U. S. Army, senior member of the board charged with raising the wreck of the U. S. S. Maine from Havana Harbor, awarded the D. S. M. for es- pecially meritorious and conspicuous service in planning and administering the engineering and military railway services during the recent great war. Next to President Buchanan, probably the most widely known names associated with Lancaster County are those of Baron Steigel, Robert Fulton, and Thaddeus Stevens. We feel that a more de- tailed discussion of these characters is justifiable. Henry William Steigel came to this country in 1750 and brought about forty thousand pounds with him. He travelled for a time over Penn's province in search for a suitable location and of a 98 Lancaster's golden century favorable opportunity for the profitable invest- ment of his money. For a time he lived in Phila- delphia and while there married the daughter of an ironmaster. Then he came to Lancaster county and built an iron furnace which he named Eliza- beth in honor of his wife. He entered upon the manufacture of stoves. Some of them are still found with his name upon them. A thriving settlement grew up around his furnace. In 1762 he founded the town of Pvlanheim. Shortly there- after he built an imposing structure with brick imported from England. This was perhaps the most costly residence in Lancaster County at the time. The interior of this nobleman's castle was elaborately decorated with colored tiles and woven tapestries. Over the old-fashioned fireplace were square plates of delf set in cement representing landscapes. Upon the top of the chateau was a balcony upon which a band of musicians would be placed to play favorite airs as soon as the Baron's return home would be announced by the firing of a cannon. In one of the upper rooms of the castle, it is said, the Baron would preach to his laboring hands on Sunday. About this time he established a glass factory of large dimensions, also built of imported brick. The purpose of this factory was to encourage men to locate in his new town. It was the only one in America at the time and the wares made in Steigel's glass works were considered vei*y superior. Many of these wares are still in existence and are highly cher- NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN 99 ished by antiquarians. After a while, however, the limits of his financial ability were reached, he lost all his fortune, and was thrown into prison for debt. He died in poverty at the age of fifty- three. His grave is unknown, but the fame of Steigel glass still exists. Concerning Robert Fulton, one of the foremost living masters of English verse has written the following lines: " A child of Lancaster, upon this land, Here was he born, by Conowingo's shade ; Along these banks our youthful Fulton strayed, Dreaming of Art. Then Science touched his hand, Leading him onward, when, beneath her wand, Wonders appeared that now shall never fade : He triumphed o'er the winds and swiftly made The Giant, Steam, subservient to command." Robert Fulton was indeed a child of Lancaster. He was born in the southern part of Lancaster County. Robert Fulton was indebted for the rudiments of a common English education to the town of Lancaster. He early bent his energies in the direction of drawing and painting. At the age of seventeen he was practising that profession in Philadelphia. Later he sailed for England, continued his study of painting under Benjamin West with whom he lived. Even while in Eng- land he became interested in the improvement of inland navigation and transportation. Then he went to Paris to study nigdem languages, mathe- 100 Lancaster's golden century matics and natural philosophy. There he di- rected his attention to the application of steam for purposes of navigation and was the first who successfully applied a powerful engine to this branch of human industry. He invented a tor- pedo which was rejected by the French and English governments. He came to Washington and the American government appropriated five thousand dollars to enable him to experiment with the torpedo. Fulton regarded the torpedo at the time as a greater invention than steam navigation for he believed it would establish the " liberty of the seas." In 1807 he perfected his steamboat for navigating the Hudson and in September of that year the Clermont made a successful voyage at the rate of five miles an hour from New York to Albany and back. The triumph of his genius was complete and from that day forward the name of Fulton was destined to stand enrolled among the benefactors of mankind. On September 21, 1909, the Lancaster County Historical Society arranged a celebration at the birthplace of Robert Fulton to Commemorate the centenary of the trip up the Hudson River of " The Clermont ". On the old stone house in which Fulton was born have been placed two tablets, the one of dark bronze, bearing a mural bust in low relief of Fulton, the other in the form of a conventional shield representing the Clermont under which is the following inscription : NOTABLE MEN AND WOMEN lOI Clermont Robert Fulton 1807 Here, on November 14, 1765, was born ROBERT FULTON Inventor, Who on the waters of the Hudson, August II, 1807, first successfully applied steam to the purposes of navigation. At this place he spent the first years of his life. Without a monument, future generations would know him. Erected by the Lancaster County Historical Society, At the Centenary celebration of his Achievement, September, 1909. Thaddeus Stevens, " The Great Commoner," as men delighted to call him, lived in the city of Lancaster during the greater portion of his life. He came here in 1842 in the vigor of his intellect and manhood, because he desired a larger field of operation than was possible in Gettysburg, where he had begun his career as a young lawyer. His reputation as a brilliant leader had preceded him. He had already been a member of the lower House of the State legislature and by his elo- quence at a critical point in the struggle for the common school law of 1834 had won the victory for free schools in what he later considered the most effective speech he ever made and the crowning utility of his life. In Lancaster he was nominated by the Whig party and elected to Congress in 1848 and at once threw himself into the arena as the aggressive foe of slavery. In 1850 he made his first great speech against the slave curse and proved himself a foeman worthy 102 LANCASTER'S GOLDEN CENTURY of the steel of the most prominent men of the anti-slavery party. He followed his profession as lawyer in Lancaster from 1853 to 1859, and was then elected by the Republican party to Congress, where he immediately became the leader of his party. Throughout the Civil War he was chairman of the Committee of Ways and Means and one of the most strenuous advocates of emancipation. From the beginning of the war to the end of his life he was scarcely absent a day from his seat in Congress and for most of that time his labors were herculean. He was an able counselor of President Lincoln and an ardent opponent of the reconstruction policy of President Johnson. It was Thaddeus Stevens who pre- sented in Congress a resolution declaring that Andrew Johnson, President of the United States, be impeached of high crime and misdemeanors in office. After three days of debate the resolution passed, but Stevens was broken down in health. A month after Congress adjourned in the summer of 1868 Stevens was dead. A noted historian recently said, '' In the Congress of the United States from the time of its first officer, Frederick Augustus Muhlenburg, to this day, there was just one man who when he occupied a seat in that body held more power than any man in the government, and that man was a citizen of Lancaster county, Thaddeus Stevens." In the Lancaster County District the primary election for Congressman had been fixed for the Notable men and women toj end of the week at whose beginning Thaddeus Stevens had died. At the election although all the voters knew that their representative in Con- gress was dead, every vote as a tribute of respect was cast for Thaddeus Stevens. A eulogy on the dead statesman was pronounced before the Senate by Charles Sumner in which the Massachusetts Senator said, " Not a child, conning his spelling- book, beneath the humble rafters of a village school, who does not owe him gratitude." Sumner further said, " It is as a defender of human rights, that Thaddeus Stevens deserves our homage. Already he takes his place among il- lustrious names, which are the common property of mankind." On a monument in a cemetery in the heart of Lancaster City at the corner of West Chestnut and Mulberry streets, where his body was laid, is the inscription composed by the Great Commoner himself, " I repose in this quiet, secluded spot, not from any natural preference for solitude, but, finding other cemeteries limited by charter rules as to race, I have chosen it that I might be enabled to il- lustrate in my death the principles which I have advocated through a long life — ^the Equality of Man before his Creator ". In an address in the House of Representatives Stevens had expressed the following wish which throws a light on his motives and character : '' I i04 Lancaster's golden centurV will be satisfied if my epitaph shall be written thus : ' Here lies one who never rose to any emi- nence, and who only courted the low ambition to have it said that he had striven to ameliorate the condition of the poor, the lowly, the downtrodden of every race and language and color.' I shall be content with such an inscription on my humble grave." In his will, Thaddeus Stevens left money to erect, establish and endow an institution for the relief of homeless indigent orphans, in which needy and ambitious boys should be carefully educated in the various branches of English, and in all industrial trades and pursuits. With this bequest as a nucleus and with later additional subscriptions and state grants there was erected as a memorial to his distinguished services, the Thaddeus Stevens Industrial School, located on East King street, Lancaster, Pa. ^■4t<'i^<