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DIAE "X 
 
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 1865. 
 
 By POET E . 
 
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 N E W YORK: 
 MARSH'S PRINT, 110 DIVISION STBJ 
 
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 / Sfa"t&./&Z? 
 
Inscribed' to 
 
 At whose request these Notes have been prepared, 
 
 AS A TESTIMONY OF THE 
 
 GRATITUDE, ESTEEM, AND AFFECTION 
 
 OF HIS F K I J: S D 
 
 h e ',',' r it ei 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 

 NOTE. 
 
 A brief -explanation may be expected la refereno to the contents if the I ilowas* 1 
 pages. 11 te Diary was written almost daily in those cities and regions where it puj 
 in nave be ea written, solely for the future reference and satisfaction of the writer, as : . 
 without a thought of its ever being seen by any other than his own eye. But, a i. . . 
 ate d, a reque-rt was made (coming from a source not to be disregarded) that tha 
 shoi|ild be written out just as tin ij were taken, though somi what fuller. 1 his r - 
 has been, as far as possible, complied with, ami may account for any expres ion 
 w hicb mi;,'lit he deemed too personal, or too juvenile in their interpretation of the en 
 giastic feelings of the persons concerned. A further apology might [perhaps be urged, in 
 tousideration of the fact, that the first few pages of the Diary were written without ?•> 
 lion that they were to be put into print even for private circulation ; 
 that the whole has been hastily prepare!: and the latter portion during the unprece- 
 dented ej.it of the present i-ramer. 
 
 S. P, V. r ., Jr.. 
 
 JULT, 16GC. 
 
T) I A !R Y". 
 
 Friday, June 23, 1865. — About S o'clock reached the 
 side of the steamer " Lafayette," Capt. Bocande, accom- 
 panied by our friends ; and for an hour were spectators of 
 the usual scenes to be witnessed on the departure of an 
 ocean-bound steamship. At 9 o'clock, precisely, the last 
 farewells were spoken, and the plank, which was to sepa- 
 rate some forever from those whom they loved, was low- 
 ered. Quietly we glided out upon the water, and were 
 soon out of sight and hearing of those who had kindly 
 accompanied us to the ship to wish us " bon voyage." 
 And now it is evening, and our first day at sea is about 
 ended. It has been a magnificent one ; sea smooth, sky 
 clear, and breeze refreshing. The deck has worn the as- 
 pect of the piazza of some summer resort ; people of va- 
 rious ages and characters walking, sitting, reading and 
 talking, and children running and romping about the ves- 
 sel. 
 
 Sunday, June 25. — Notwithstanding we set sail on 
 Friday, our voyage promises to be more than a " lucky" 
 one. The sea continues calm, and the weather delightful. 
 But it is not at all like Sunday. Some playing chess, 
 others enjoying a game of cards, and the greater portion 
 reading their novels. A few have their Bibles or books of 
 religious poetry, but they are very few in number. Some 
 
4 DIART, 
 
 of us have not slept much during the past two nights, 
 owing to the novelty of our situation, and consequently 
 feel much inclined to drowsiness. Up to the hour of noon, 
 yesterday, we had made 248 miles, and to day at 12 o'clock 
 had made 2G6 miles additional. 
 
 Monday, June 26, — Our table acquaintance, M. Corner 
 Tins De Boom, informed us this morning that during all 
 his numerous voyages across the seas, he had never 
 known such quiet, delightful weather, to continue for four 
 consecutive days. Mrs. B. not inappropriately calls it 
 " river sailing." Our sea life continues the same as may be 
 seen from the following rhyme, which may pass far what; 
 it is worth. 
 
 On the "stormy Atlantic" thia letter I rhyme, 
 Anil although done in part to wile away time, 
 I trust it will furnish some sort of idea 
 How we live, while across the ocean we steer. 
 The lives that we live are the lives of those men. 
 Who live for the present, nor labor to ken 
 The fears and the troubles the future may bring, 
 Living only for pleasure, and striving to fling 
 All saddening, sobering thoughts to the wind. 
 
 We sit upon deck, and pace o'er its floor ; 
 
 We talk, and we read, and list to the roar • 
 
 Of the wavelets, whose tops shine bright in the sun ; 
 
 As bright as the faces of children who run, 
 
 To and fro o'er the deck and serve to beguile 
 
 A dull hour, now and then, for those who can smile 
 
 Upon them, and thus win their young heart's affection. 
 
 And perchance from their spirits receive the reflection. 
 
 Lo here on the ocean, within a frail shell, 
 Four hundred inhabitants eat, drink and dwell I 
 Each and all of us strive to fill up our'days 
 Just as we feel moved — in various ways — 
 The quiet people read, the social ones talk, 
 The weaiied ones sleep and the. restless ones walk j 
 The idle ones lounge, and the dreamy ones smoke, 
 The ennuyed play cards and the funny ones joke, 
 And thus in one way and another all find 
 Employment of some sort for body and mind. 
 
 1 The " roar of the wavelet" is not usually very loud. 
 
DIARY. 5 
 
 Tuesday, June 27. — America is a thousand miles behind 
 us ! Still another superb day and sea almost as smooth 
 as glass. Evening — None of us dreamed this morning 
 how eventful this day was to become ! About 5 o'clock, 
 just as we had finished our " second course" and were 
 laughing and chatting over our dinners, the Captain dis- 
 appeared from the table, and our attention was suddenly 
 arrested by the exclamation of " a wreck ! a wreck !" In 
 a moment nearly every soul was on the deck, and all were 
 straining their eyes to get a glimpse of " the wreck." 
 We expected to see an old hull, or some blackened rem- 
 nant of a ship ; but we saw only a small row boat, rising 
 and sinking again in the swell of the sea, as it made to- 
 ward our ship. At first some of us were disappointed, but 
 then came the realization that the little boat making to- 
 ward our ship was a thousand miles from land, upon a 
 treacherous sea and contained human beings who were, 
 perhaps, famishing for want of food. The excitement 
 caused by the agitation of several hundred people who 
 running hither and thither to obtain a view of the ap- 
 proaching boat, may be more easily remembered by those 
 of us who were eye-witnesses of the scene, and better 
 imagined by those who were not-^than described. Anx- 
 iously we waited for the little boat. At length it came 
 alongside ; the steps were lowered, and one by one the 
 poor creatures were assisted to mount to the deck of the 
 " Lafayette." No doubt it seemed to them as solid and 
 safe as terra jirma. 
 
 Their heart-rending tale was soon told. The ship 
 " William Nelson," from Antwerp had been burnt the day 
 before, about noon, hundreds had perished miserably, and 
 1 jiese and a few others were all of the -500 souls on board the 
 
v» 
 
 <1 DIARY. 
 
 ill-fated vessel who had been or would probably he saved. 
 They were taken to the second-class eabin and fed and 
 clothed. At first some were unable to taste food, so over- 
 joyed were they at their resent 1 from a watery grave ; 
 while others were weeping for husbands and brothers 
 whom they should see no more. The passengers robbed 
 their own wardrobes for clothing to cover the poor crea- 
 tines, many of whom were drenched to the skin. Later 
 in the evening a second boat load was received on board 
 | the " Lafayette," and the Captain having ascertained the 
 location in which the ship was burned, changed his course 
 and sailed in a southerly direction. About dark we came 
 in sisjrht of a Russian frigate, and about the same time de- 
 scried a third small boat quite near the vessel. Before we 
 came sufficiently near to speak the frigate she had received 
 the third boat's company on board. But all were subse- 
 quently transferred to the " Lafayette" ; the whole num- 
 ber being 43 souls. There was something strange in this 
 intercourse on the ocean, and the transferrence of human 
 beings from one ship to another ! Among these saved 
 were an entire family, father, mother and lour children ; 
 tin' youngest but three months old. The father said in his 
 own simple way, that " he did not kaow what he had 
 done to God that he should be so good to him." Why 
 were those lew out of so large a company the only ones 
 « ived ? It may be they were to fulfill a destiny. It may 
 be we shall hear of some of them again. Until 11 o'clock 
 the Captain of our ship sailed in a southerly direction, and 
 .at intervals fired rockets and cannon, hoping by these 
 means to attract the attention of any survivors who might 
 be floating about in the sea and thus save them from a 
 watery grave. But all in vain. The only response to the 
 
DIARY. ? 
 
 booming of the cannon was the dull heavy feeling in our 
 hearts. 
 
 Wednesday, June 2S. — The thrilling scenes and incidents 
 connected with the rescue occupy the thoughts and 
 tongues of all on board, and we have more detailed ac- 
 counts of the tragical scenes enacted before the eyes of 
 those who were, two days ago, in the midst of the flames, 
 which wrapt their vessel in a fiery shroud. In the after- 
 noon there was a large assemblage of the passengers to 
 witness the baptism of the youngest of all the survivors ; 
 an infant born upon the sea, and to whom was given the 
 name of Lafayette Bocande, the names of the ship and 
 Captain who saved him from a premature grave. Dr.' 
 King took the principal part in the unusual and touching 
 scene, reading the baptismal service with great impressive- 
 ness, while our noble Captain held this child of the ocean 
 in his arms. The weeping mother sat near, and at the 
 close of the ceremony received and embraced the wonder- 
 ing and scarce conscious child. A subscription was then 
 taken, and several thousand francs were collected by 
 Madam Stoeckl, Judge Edwards Pierrepont and M. de'Boom, 
 who had been appointed to act in the matter, and was distrib- 
 uted by them among the destitute passengers of the Nelson. 
 Never was aid more spontaneously and gladly contributed, 
 nor sympathy extended more heartily. Not raiment and 
 gold alone were offered ; but tears flowed for those sorrow- 
 ing ones ; they were visited in their loneliness and kind 
 words were spoken to their aching hearts. We could not 
 forget, that although the greatest boon of all, their lives, 
 had been spared, yet they had lost those who were well 
 nigh as dear to them as their own lives — their brothers, 
 husbands, friends. 
 
S DIAliY. 
 
 Monday, July 3. — We have passed a somewhat miserable 
 day. Those who have been wishing for a storm have been 
 gratified. The wind blows, the rain falls, and our vessel is 
 rolling in a heavy sea. The initiated tell ns it is not much 
 of a storm ; but those of us who have never before wit- 
 nessed an upheaving of the ocean are somewhat incredu- 
 lous. Only four or five ladies qf the fifty on board present- 
 ed themselves at the table, and not a few strong men are 
 not to be found. Although not sick, (of course), our ap- 
 petites were somewhat impaired, and a ship biscuit was suf- 
 ficient to satisfy all cravings. All who were wise kept 
 near as possible to the open deck, and diverted themselves 
 by listening to the talk of others, yielding no attention to 
 the claims of the inward man. The storm continued with- 
 out abatement during the day. The dinner table presen- 
 ted the same dreary spectacle of deserted seats. For the 
 first time since we started upon our voyage, the casings 
 were put upon the table to prevent us from being drench- 
 ed with claret, or having the contents of our plates diverted 
 from their original destination. The greater portion of the 
 company, however seemed more in danger of getting drunk 
 than of taking much temperate food and drink, judging 
 from the frequent calls upon the stewards for brandy and 
 water — but necessity knows no law. 
 
 Tuesday, July 4, — The morning was so bright that its 
 light struggled through the port holes, and we knew it 
 was a " Glorious Fourth " before we reached the deck. 
 But we had more substantial reason to remember the day, 
 and proof that our good captain remembered it too. In 
 more than one way was it celebrated, not only by cham- 
 pagne and speechifying but by the firing of cannon, and 
 
D1ABT. 9 
 
 the elevation of the stars and stripes to the masthead. And 
 was it not meet when the name of our vessel was " La- 
 fayette" that the event, which the gallant Marquis had once 
 joined in celebrating, and for the consummation of which he 
 had fought, should be appropriately commemorated on this 
 particular day, when, after four years of sanguinary war 
 peace had dawned once more upon the land ! Be it as it 
 may, it was celebrated with a will. Young America in- 
 spired somewhat, it may be, by artificial stimulant cheered 
 the flag with much spirit, and sang in chorus a number of 
 patriotic airs. Nor was Captain Bocande forgotten. He 
 and other officers of the ship, were, in a double sense, cor- 
 dially remembered. Some of the toasts were, " The United 
 States," " France," " The Empereur" and " Bocande." 
 and so with the return of fine weather, the consciousness 
 that we were hearing our journey's end, and the hopes the 
 future held out to us we are all in good spirits; 
 
 Nine o'clock, P. M. — This day has been 1 doubly cele- 
 brated ! Columbus, on his arrival at the new world saw a 
 light upon the land, although he could not see the land 
 itself. And we have seen a light on the shores of the old 
 world to-night ! It is as a star of promise and causes our 
 hearts to rejoice. It seems to be beckoning us onward, 
 assuring us that we are soon to realize the dream of years. 
 
 Wednesday, July 6th. — Evening. We have left the 
 ocean behind us ; have visited the harbor of Brest, where 
 some hundred or more passengers went ashore, and are 
 now steaming as rapidly as possible through the English 
 Channel for Havre. May God, who has in mercy piloted 
 us across three thousand miles of sea, grant us a safe ar- 
 rival at the desired haven. We have enjoyed almost every 
 
 2 
 
10 t>IARV. 
 
 hour of our days on board, and shall not be as eager to leaftf 
 the ship as all would have been had we not experienced 
 an almost unparalelled succession of bright, beautiful 
 days, good company and good fare. Nevertheless we shall 
 be most glad to tread upon terra firma once more, and to> 
 behold a new country. 
 
 Havre, July 6th, 2 P. M. — We can scarcely realize that 
 we are seated quietly in a veritable French hotel ; that 
 time and steam have, in so brief a period, separated us so 1 
 wudely from our homes. At ten we anchored in the chan- 
 nel, and about twelve stepped upon French territory, and 
 were soon afterward driven to the " Hotel de "Europa." 
 As we left the ship, the captain stood at the helm and 
 waved his chapeau, and the French flag was lowered to 
 the surface of the water, and raised to its place again, as a 
 final salute. 
 
 Good ship " Lafayette !" thou hast borne us safely over 
 the wide, wide sea, and we shall not soon forget thee. 
 May all who shall hereafter tread thy decks receive like 
 comfort, courtesy and safe transportation ! As w r e passed 
 through "the gates," the people collected to see us land. 
 The soldiers were the exact counterpart, in appearance,' 
 to the representations of them in the colored picture- 
 books we^ had so often seen at home. The houses, how- 
 ever, were entirely different, and prevent one from forget- 
 tin for a moment that he is in a foreign country. The 
 hotel is old, but the best ; our rooms look into the little 
 paved court, from whence come the sound of the familiar 
 voices of many of our comjiagnions du voyage, commingled 
 with the lively clatter of the native tongue. The " Rue 
 de Paris," whereon the hotel is located, is a pleasant street, 
 lined with shops. Beneath one of the windows on th« 
 
DIARY. 11 
 
 opposite side of the street is painted in large Roman char- 
 acters, of a yellow color, " English Spoken." But we 
 shall do our shopping in Paris, whither we expect to go 
 to-morrow, and only tarry here to see a mend, and collect 
 our turbulent thoughts. The sun has shown constantly 
 since our arrival. France has given us a bright re- 
 ception. 
 
 Saturday, July Stk, a? Rouen. — What new and enjoyable 
 sights, sounds, and experiences have been crowded into 
 three short days ! We have taken our first continental- 
 journey in the luxurious railroad carriages of the country — 
 have seen the women at work in the fields — the old wooden 
 windmills, and the thatched roofs of the mud houses. 
 In this fine old city, which we had intended to leave un- 
 visited, we have seen the spot whereon Joan of Arc was 
 burned, the famous Hotel de Ville, a gloomy pile of brick 
 and stone, and other places which demand especial men- 
 tion. Having examined the exterior of several of the 
 principal public buildings, we drove to the Church of St. 
 Ouen, where we spent an hour in viewing pictures of 
 various merit — in studying the grand yet delicate archi- 
 tecture of this magnificent edifice — -in looking at the beau- 
 tiful stained glass windows, and in contemplating the 
 church as a whole. The major-domo who conducted us 
 through the building aided us considerably to obtain a 
 just conception of its size and beauty- The enclosed altar 
 was too sacred a place for the feet of heretics ; but we 
 went into many of the little side chapels, in most of which 
 were confessionals. A picture in one of them was worthy 
 of attention. It was a representation of the devil ; the 
 form, part man and part serpent, and the face so fascinating 
 as to rivet the attention of the beholder. How much 
 
12 DLART. 
 
 thought, labor and gold have been bestowed to render the 
 false attractive, and uphold a superstitious worship ! Be-? 
 fore we left, we were told to look into a fount of water, 
 in which the church was mirrored. Of course it looked 
 " up side down ;" but an opportunity was afforded of ob- 
 serving the arched ceiling without the danger of dislo- 
 cating one's neck. We shall ever recollect with enthu- 
 siasm our visit to this grand old cathedral of St. Ouen of 
 Rouen. To our mind, the Notre Dame, which is " the 
 cathedral" of the city, is not so impressive, and the archi- 
 tecture is more heavy and sombre. At the time we visited 
 it, workmen were engaged in making repairs, and their 
 presence and noise detracted somewhat from the interest 
 the edifice would otherwise have inspired. 
 
 In the afternoon we took a carriage to Mt. St. Catherine, 
 on an eminence of which stands the new, handsome 
 Church of the Lady of Bonsecours. The interior is exr 
 tremely dazzling. The magnificent storied windows, which 
 were given by the donors whose names and likenesses 
 adorn one corner of them, form an important part of tho 
 whole. The painting and gilding is of the most gorgeous 
 description, and the church is altogether one of the gayest 
 places for worship of any kind that we have ever seen. 
 
 As much, if not more than the inspection of this church, 
 did we enjoy the superb view of the valley of the Seine, 
 including the town of Rouen, and several small hamlets. 
 Looming up in the midst of the town was seen the tower 
 of the Cathedral, surmounted by the iron spire which, 
 from its great height, seemed to cleave the low clouds 
 which were at the time moving rapidly over the city ; 
 while below, the river winding through the picturesque 
 valley, and studded with woody islands, enhanced the 
 
DIARY. IS 
 
 beauty of the scene. Long will the picture be retained 
 in our memory ! 
 
 July Vth, Sunday. — Attended grand mass at the Notre 
 Dame. We reached the cathedral just as the priests 
 were marching through the aisles, chanting a part of the 
 service as they walked, and elevating the cross between 
 the lighted candlesticks. This ceremony over, the Romish 
 service commenced : kneeling to the Holy Virgin, pray- 
 ing, putting on and off of robes and caps, reading the 
 Latin Lessons, swinging the incense, and so forth. Wearied 
 with the monotonous tones of the priests, we found more 
 profit in giving heed to the sober reflections called forth 
 by the sight of all these pompous performances. The 
 throng who filled the church also afforded an interesting 
 subject for contemplation ; while many, it could not be 
 doubted, were sincere worshipers ; others, while pretend- 
 ing to be engaged in petitioning the blessed Mary, were 
 taking cognizance of all* that was going on about them. 
 But the Catholics are not the only ones who carry on the 
 worship of God and mammon at one and the same time. 
 We took, but did not partake of, the sacrament, wrap- 
 ping the bit of bread (which was, in the belief of those 
 around us, a particle of the body of the Saviour) in one 
 corner of our pocket handkerchief. We bore it away 
 with us as a sensible proof of our ^belief in the doctrine 
 of transubstantiation, and as a memento of the service — 
 the first we had attended in the old world ! We re- 
 mained to witness the " public prayers to the Virgin." 
 While they were being mumbled with the accustomed 
 formal solemnity, a French woman entered, whom we 
 recognized as having been a passenger on board the La- 
 fayette. The expression of her face was not particularly 
 
14 DIART. 
 
 amiable, and we wondered at the facility with which, 
 while, with one closed eye, she adored the " Holy Mother," 
 she with the other cast a severe glance upon us, as if to reprove 
 us for want of due reverence. It was refreshing to get 
 out into the pure air and sunshine once more ; and still 
 more so — after an interval of several hours passed quietly 
 in our pleasant rooms in the Hotel D'Angleterre — to attend 
 the English Episcopal service in a little chapel which was 
 once a Catholic church. It was situated in a most out-of- 
 the-way place ; and had we been persecuted Huguenots 
 it would have been seemingly a safe retreat. All direc- 
 tions were of no avail ; and had it not been for a very 
 polite shopman, who insisted upon leaving his shop, and 
 going far out of his way, we should not have enjoyed this 
 heretical service. About forty were assembled, and joined 
 heartily in the responses ; and some four or five fair 
 American or English girls sat near the small melodeon, 
 and with their sweet voices aided materially in rendering 
 the vocal part of the service attractive. Owing to the 
 fewness of our numbers, and the circumstances under 
 which we worshiped, there seemed more than usual union 
 and communion. We felt that it was good to be there 
 and to pause for a moment in the midst of the excite- 
 ments incident to the life of a traveler journeying through 
 a country where all things were new and strange. 
 
 Monday, July 10th, — Left Rouen, not without some re- 
 gret, and by two o'clock were on our way to Paris ! The 
 ride of two hours and a half was very enjoyable, the coun- 
 try through which we passed attractive,, and our spirits 
 the finest. There is much to engage the attention of one 
 who gazes upon the region of country through which this 
 road passes for the first time in their lives. What struck 
 
kLiRT. 1$ 
 
 us particularly as we proceeded was the singular custom of 
 cultivating the soil, in immensely long and very narrow 
 strips ; eaeh strip having been planted with a different kind 
 of produce, and presenting a marked appearance, and look- 
 ing like a great agricultural flag, with its many colored 
 and variously shaded stripes, spread upon the surface of 
 the ground. The train in which we were being conveyed 
 to the capital of" Le Belle France," also attracted our at- 
 tention, the cars being Covered with sheet iron without, and 
 illumined by means of a lamp placed in the centre of the 
 top and lighted by a man upon the roof! There is also no 
 shelter whatever upon the engine for the fireman who 
 drives it. Many other of the arrangements differ widely 
 from our own, as for instance the rate of speed which being- 
 far greater, is certainly much more agreeable, especially 
 when one's destination is this paradise of pleasure seekers.' 
 As we Beared the city our excitement increased, and even 
 when we had passed the barriere we could scarcely believe 
 the testimony of our senses, that we were not beside our- 
 selves, but were in very truth in Paris ! 
 
 The examination of our baggage was little more than a 
 form, and after a very brief delay, with our trunks over our 
 heads upon the top of little voifurc, we were getting our first 
 actual sight of the gay city while being driven to the Bou- 
 levard des Capuscins, and " le Grand Hotel." Owing to the 
 impossibility of carrying all our luggage upon one coach, our' 
 party was obliged to separate, and the cocker of one of the 
 the voitures conjecturing rightly as to the ignorance of his 
 passenger or " voyageur" as to the rout to be taken, gave 
 him the benefit of half an hour's ride through various- 
 portions of the city, thus enabling him, in advanee of his 
 compagnom, to gain a knowledge of its beauty and magni- 
 
16 DIAItT; 
 
 tudc. Considering the advantages thus unexpectedly 
 enjoyed, the trifling extra charge which was exacted was 
 very inconsiderable. 
 
 Unlike many of the little " grands" to which the atten- 
 tion of the traveler is constantly invited, this palatial 
 hotel is most appropriately named. In size and all its 
 appointments it has not its equal, and certainly not its 
 superior in certain other important respects. We were 
 soon established in most comfortable quarters, and ere 
 long found our way to a handsome restaurant, where we 
 were waited upon by gacons clothed in fine broadcloth, 
 and speaking three or four languages, and where we en- 
 joyed a most satisfactory repast. 
 
 In the evening, by moonlight, as if in a vision, we' 
 looked upon the Madeleine, the Place de la Concorde, with 
 its obelisk of Luzor,the exterior of the Palace of the Tuil- 
 leries ; and after a short stroll through the corridors of 
 the Rue Rivoli, returned to our rooms. We had had ex- 
 citement enough for one day ; and what promise did not 
 the morrow hold out to us !• 
 
 Paris, July 13th.— On first entering the city, we were 
 forced to exclaim, "0 strange new world !" and indeed the 
 intense life and brilliancy of the " whited sepulchre" cannot 
 be easily described. There is an intense sparkle and fas- 
 cination about it that one must himself witness in order 
 to understand it. Three days in Paris constitute an event 
 in one's lifetime ; that is, to one coming from the New 
 World. What have we not done, seen, experienced even, 
 during so brief a time ! We have been lost amid the cu- 
 rious and interesting treasures of art and antiquity stored 
 in the Louvre ; fine old pictures, souvenirs of the kings 
 
DJ.AkY. J7 
 
 and queens of France, (beginning with Childric and end- 
 ing with Louis Philippe,) and articles of all descriptions 
 used by Napoleon the Great— have visited the tombs of 
 Abelard and Heloise, Raehael, Marsha] Ney, and the 
 Rothschilds, at Pere la Chaise— have been through the 
 manufactory of the Gobelin Tapistry, where we were 
 mucfc entertained by a view of the finished pieces, the 
 work of years, and wonderful specimens of art, and by 
 watching the process by which they are constructed, 
 thread by //tread. We have seen the Jardin des Plantes, 
 where we looked upon many animals never before col- 
 lected. The Morgue— although at tho time of our visit 
 there were none but living inhabitants within, the walls- 
 claimed a moment's attention. Next we visited "Notre 
 Dame de Paris," so intimately connected with the history 
 of the city. Walking up the side aisles, and noticing the 
 side chapels which had been repaired and adorned, we 
 looked at the beautiful carved work within the chancel, 
 and returned and climbed the left tower to the first " look- 
 out ;" then, crossing to the right-hand tower, climbed to 
 the very top, and, scrambling upon the roof, stood upon 
 the highest attainable point. Prom this elevation the view 
 of the immense and finely-situated city, extending far out 
 into the region round about, was grand in the extreme. 
 
 Our visit to the Invalides, to-day, was a very interesting 
 one. Bonaparte's tomb is very rich, and the statues sur- 
 rounding it finely executed and commanding. The build- 
 ing itself is very handsome, and, altogether, impressive. 
 We afterward spent a short time in the hospital itself, its 
 chapel, etc. Driving past the magnificent Arc de l'Etoile, 
 after examining its fine bass-relief, we went to the Lux- 
 DmWg Palace, its senate el'iamber, gallery of paintings, 
 
JS DIAUV. 
 
 and so forth. The gallery of paintings was worthy of a 
 much longer visit. Indeed some of the paintings merited 
 an hour's inspection ; and supposing the inspector to pos- 
 sess a good memory and a fertile imagination, the examina- 
 tion might afford much delightful thought and enjoy- 
 ment. 
 
 From the Palace we went to the Pantheon, a ffftnous. 
 old church, on its own and its historical account. Guided 
 by a heartv, merry-looking man, habited in the usual dress 
 of the military order, we descended into the vaults beneath 
 the altar, and visited the tombs of Voltaire, (the man 
 whose character "Carlylc has so admirably drawn,) and 
 llousseau, and some other notabilities. At one spot our 
 guide stopped, and, arranging us in a row, with our backs to 
 the wall, stepped onward a little distance, and pronounced 
 a number of words— at first in a loud, and then in a softer 
 tone, which were re-echoed with a precision such as we 
 had never known to be equalled or even approximated. 
 The whispered ones were as distinct as the louder ones. 
 He next sounded a drum, and the noise which resounded 
 from the vaults and arches Was like the roar of artillery. 
 Our courier afterward informed us that the drum used 
 was quite a small one. Close by the Pantheon stands the 
 oldest church in Paris, St. Genevieve. In the revolution 
 it was used as a stable, and was the theatre of some fight- 
 ing. Several bullet-holes, which were shown to us in the 
 canvass of some of the paintings, testified to the truth of 
 the event. 
 
 Our last visit was to the Chamber of Deputies, where 
 we saw the room in which the deputies assemble. A fine 
 marble statue of the present Emperor was greatly aid- 
 
DIARY. 1 9 
 
 mired. It is cut from a single block of marble, and is most 
 beautifully and perfectly executed. 
 
 It seems, that while so much has met our eyes, our 
 minds have been inadequately employed. One feels the 
 momentary impression, but does not analyze the cause 
 whence it comes ; and consequently he fails to derive the 
 full pleasure and profit which might be received by a 
 cooler and more lengthened study, both of his thoughts 
 and the works of art themselves. 
 
 In the evening, as usual, strolled in the Boulevards, 
 sometimes visiting the arcades and passages, looking at the 
 display of goods which the French people know how to 
 arrange so temptingly in their shop-windows, and oc- 
 casionally purchasing some trifling articles. In thus 
 making ourselves, for the time beinsr, one of the easily- 
 pleased throng, and sauntering leisurely whither inclina- 
 tion led us, we found much entertainment ; and although 
 the occupation yielded no excitement, it afforded no small 
 opportunity to observe the street life, shop life, and com- 
 mon life of the gay city — to study " Paris by gaslight." 
 
 July lith, Versailles. — Left in the half-past eleven 
 o'clock train for Versailles. The ride of less than an 
 hour's duration was only too short. Driving through the 
 long avenue, lined on either side with a double row of fine 
 trees, we reached the little Trianon, and so soon as the 
 officer arrived, were shown through its apartments. Many 
 of them were very elegant. The floors being of inlaid 
 wood, and highly polished, seemed no more fit to be trodden 
 upon than the handsome centre-tables that adorned the 
 rooms, and upon which were arranged many unique and 
 valuable gifts presented to Napoleon First by the sore-* 
 
2(1 Dr.vRt. 
 
 deigns of Europe. Beyond these more showy salons, wo, 
 passed through the sitting-room, private library, bed- 
 chamber, and toilet-room of Bonaparte, and saw likenesses 
 of various members of the old Bourbon family. 
 
 Next in order came the inspection of the royal livery. 
 Among the carriages, was the one in which the young 
 prince was carried at the time of his christening, and the 
 coach in which Josephine was sent awuy from her lawful 
 husband. All were richly ornamented, and gorgeous with 
 gilt. We also saw the chair in which Madame Maintenon, 
 the fascinating woman of society, was carried. 
 
 To pass through the galleries of the Grand Palace of 
 Versailles occupied several hours ; and it would be utterly 
 impossible to describe either the magnificent Palaise itself, or 
 to name its most valuable treasures. Most of the paintings 
 relate to great historical events and battle-fields, and the 
 sculpture to men who have made themselves famous or 
 infamous in history. One wearies of the multitude of ob- 
 jects claiming his attention, and is bewildered by the 
 splendor and elaborateness of the pictures, as well as the 
 rooms in which they are arranged. 
 
 Sunday, July. IQth. — Vie have been to church almost 
 daily since we landed — -but to pay homage to art and an- 
 tiquity. To-day we went to worship (3fod. In the little 
 American chapel, Rue de Berri 21, we joined in a service 
 partly Presbyterian, partly Episcopal, and wholly in Eng- 
 lish. We listened to a somewhat rambling discourse from 
 Dr. S. His subject was one offering a wide field for 
 imaginative display ; but his treatment of it was eminent- 
 ly practical. It was the raising of Lazarus from the dead; 
 ;md the striking thought was, that Christ, by this act of 
 Love and mercy, hastened the event of his crucifixion. 
 
DIARY. LM 
 
 Plainly, pleasure is God in this magnificent city ; and the 
 thought will come, whether these gay Parisians would not 
 be quite ready to crucify the Lord again, should he come 
 among them, and endeavor to raise them to a higher* 
 nobler life. Where were the three million inabitants of 
 the city '? Traveling, selling goods, building houses, and 
 a few praying to the Virgin. 
 
 Monday, Jul;/ \llh. — A fourth excessively warm day. 
 Drove out of Paris a few miles to visit the famous church 
 of St. Denis, where so many of the kings and queens of 
 France are buried. The church is being repaired, so that 
 we were able to see only a small part of it. Notwith- 
 standing Bonaparte's desire to " sleep on the banks of the 
 Seine, in the midst of the French people," the present 
 Emperor designs that his remains shall be entombed amidfc 
 the walls wherein the skeletons of the ancient nobility of 
 the empire are buried. And it is by his order that the 
 stonecutters are at work within the hallowed walls. But 
 w r e were repaid for our visit ; the building itself, excepting 
 the portion destroye&by lightning some years ago, is 1,200 
 years old ! and the multitudinous associations that cluster 
 around it, render it an object of awe and intense interest 
 to a lover of history or one who reverences antiquity. 
 
 Before returning home we drove to the Bourse, the 
 magnificent railroad depot of the " Xord" roads, the old 
 church of St. Eustache, the Palais Royal, the markets, and 
 the Bank of France. The roar of what, to the uninitiated, 
 might seem more like the raving of a multitude of maniacs, 
 which greeted our ears as we entered " la Bourse," was 
 almost deafening. This is a handsome and commanding edi- 
 fice, and occupies a fine position. The markets are fine 
 Structures of iron, and admirably suited for the reception of 
 
DIARY. 
 
 the eatables therein sold. We have nothing like them at 
 home ; but it would be for the health of the people if we 
 had. Before leaving, we bought some delicious fruit, which 
 we brought home to refresh ourselves therewith when 
 thirsty or faint. Spent the evening in the delightful 
 ♦Salon de Lecture of the hotel over the London " Times.'''' 
 Read about the Atlantic cable — which it seems is just 
 about to be laid again, with new hopes and improve- 
 ments — the burning of the Nelson, some of whose passen- 
 gers we picked up ; and last, but not least, several columns 
 on America, feeling complimented the while that my 
 native land merited so much notice in so great a paper. 
 We had scarcely looked at a paper for weeks, and nothing 
 but indisposition and a thirsting for home-knowledge, 
 could have induced us to remain within to-night. 
 
 Wednesday, July 19^/j, — It is a week since we commen- 
 ced to "do" Paris seriously, and we have been surprised 
 to learn how much we could examine (not merely pass by) 
 in a day, under the auspices of a courier familiar with the 
 city, and its treasures of art, beauty ^nd antiquity. Paris 
 is unexhausted, inexhaustible, but is intensely hot ; and 
 so having engaged a passage in the Scotia, of October 7th, 
 we are off for Switzerland and Germany to-morrow. 
 
 July 2\st, Geneva. — Yesterday morning we left Paris, 
 and rode for nine hours through the southeast portion of 
 the empire of France. It was somewhat tedious, but we 
 enjoyed seeing the country through which we journeyed. 
 The highly-cultivated, fenceless fields — the hedges by the 
 side of the track — the beautiful hillsides, checkered with 
 different kinds of grain or vegetables — the women work- 
 ing as hard as the men — (we did not enjoy this) — the aged 
 
D1ARV. V<i 
 
 Junk of the houses, and so forth. It stormed a part 
 of the time ; but we were enabled to see all that was 
 to be seen without interruption. About half-past eight 
 we reached Macon, where we slept all night. At 
 eight o'clock this morning in the rain we left the 
 little, stagnant, dismal town, in the way train, and were 
 consequently obliged to travel slowly, wait for trains at 
 intermediate stations, and change carriages a number of 
 times. The latter part of our ride was through narrow 
 defiles, between high hills, and the scenery possessed more 
 variety than that of yesterday. But we did not see it to 
 as much advantage j for, although in one of the best 
 carriages, we were, for the first time since our arrival, 
 somewhat crowded. All annoyances were, however, soon 
 forgotten ; for presently we were in Switzerland ! Arrived 
 at Geneva, we went at once to the Hotsl des Bergnes, 
 which, though not new, is, like old wine, good ; and 
 moreover, is said to command a view of Mt. Blanc in 
 clear, cloudless weather. He has not been visible to-day.- 
 After dinner — which, by the way, was enlivened by music 
 from a fine band — we passed over the handsome bridge 
 across the lower end of the lake, and into some of the 
 older portions of the city. 
 
 July 22d, Chamonix. — Left the Hotel Bergues for this 
 little Alpine village about eight and a half o'clock. We 
 accomplished eighteen miles of the journey in less than 
 three hours, and at Bonnville remained more than an hour 
 to rest the horses. At the same time and place we refresh- 
 ed ourselves, though in a small way. We were on the 
 Way again a little after twelve, and did not stop until two- 
 hours afterward, when the horses Were again rested ; and 
 
t J 4 diary; 
 
 meanwhile a cannon fired that we might hear the eehoV 
 It was poor, and by no means equal to the one at Lake 
 < teorge. During the ride thence to St. Martin, we passed 
 some beautiful scenery, and very lofty mountain tops. All 
 was new, wild, grand and strange, and we forgot the 
 length of the journey, in witnessing the novel and impress- 
 ive scenery, by which we were surrounded. About half- 
 past three we reached the inn of St. Martin, and here we 
 changed coaches, drivers and horses, to ascend the moun- 
 tain which formed the barrier to the village to which we 
 were bound. A part of the traces connecting the horses 
 with our Uew conveyance were made of pieces of rope, not 
 larger than a common clothes line, and seemed scarcely to 
 warrant safe transportation up the sides of the steep as- 
 cent. However, we journeyed up the- steep sides of the 
 wild mountain and over bridges thrown' across yawning 
 chasms in safety, even to the end. About seven, we 
 beheld the snowy peaks of the mountains in the 
 neighborhood of Mt. Blanc ' but it was not until we 
 neared the village that the clouds were lifted from 
 the tops of the mountains, at the base of which ran our 
 road, and from the hoary head of this giant king of the 
 Alps, that we looked upon the very top of the world-famous 
 Mount Blanc ! Yes, there it was, looming up into the 
 very sky, and we, mere pigmies, straining our eyes and 
 almost dislocating our necks to gaze at it. We were iri- 
 formedthat people are frequently a week at Chamonix, 
 and do not get one glimpse of this dazzling monarch, and 
 that we were fortunate ; and indeed we thought so tooi 
 and felt awed when we thought of our proximity to those' 
 fearful glaciers, and the cloud-enveloped regions where the 
 snow eternally rests and perpetual silence reigns ! 
 
DIARY. '2-3 
 
 Sunday, July 23d. — On our arrival last evening, we had 
 found rest at the Hotel Royal, which was honored in 1S60 
 by a visit from the French Emperor and suite. The rooms 
 assigned us commanded a view of the snow-topped summits, 
 and consequently the jirst thing we did upon rising was to 
 go to our windows to see if the sky was clear. To our joy 
 it was, and the round, pure, crystal dome of Mt. Blanc 
 was glistening in the sunlight ! About eleven, leaving 
 the hotel, we moved leisurely along the little field-path 
 leading to the newly-erected Episcopal chapel, lately 
 built to accommodate English tourists. We were very 
 early, as the village time differed from our own. Soon, 
 however, the little bell was tolled, and the people began to 
 come ; and by the time the service commenced, the very small 
 church was well filled. It seemed fit to worship the Au- 
 thor of all the sublimity which surrounded us in the 
 midst of his creations—" to lift up our eyes unto the hills, 
 from whence cometh our help ;" unto Him " who has 
 preserved us from all evil," during the month that has 
 elapsed since we left our homes on the other side of the 
 Atlantic. If, indeed, there are *' sermons in stones — 
 books in the running brooks," what depths of thought 
 may not be stirred within one by giving heed to the emo- 
 tions caused by a contemplation of these grand phenomena 
 of nature. It makes the spectator feel his insignificance, 
 question the very cause of his creation, and yearn for some 
 imagined, inexpressible good. A memorable day will be 
 this Sabbath, passed under the " Shadow of Mount 
 Blanc !" 
 
 July 24th. — Well was it that we took a long, last look 
 at Mt. Blanc last evening; for to-day his glorious head is 
 
 4 
 
26 DIAKY. 
 
 no longer visible to the gaze of mortals. The event of the 
 day was the ascent to the Mer de Glace, on mule-back. It 
 occupied about two hours. B. w r as mounted on the back 
 of the largest animal, myself upon the most mischievous. 
 They were " stubborn as mules," and it was well for us 
 that they had made up their minds that they would go. 
 They went no faster than they chose, however, and occasion- 
 ally paused to view their homes beneath, or for some other 
 undiscovered reason. Now and then the road became un- 
 pleasantly narrow, and ran uncomfortably near to some- 
 thing very like a precipice ; and just at these points the 
 donkeys seemed especially desirous of seeing how close to 
 the edge they could walk without causing themselves 
 and their riders to make an unexpected descent. How- 
 over, we reached the plateau overlooking the Sea of Ice — 
 regarding the extent and appearance of which we were a 
 little disappointed — in safety, and drank our bottle of 
 beer several thousand feet above the heads of most of our 
 fellow men. Descending part way to the icy sea, we 
 watched a party of young men, as, with pikes in their 
 hands, and conducted by a guide, they threaded their 
 way across it ; and then, not having time to cross our- 
 selves, we bought some exquisite wood carvings, as me- 
 mentoes of our visit, and commenced the not quite so 
 agreeable descent. It was accomplished in good time; 
 and about four, with regret, we bade adieu to the moun- 
 tain-locked vale of Chamonix, and descended to the little 
 inn at St. Martin, where we intended passing the night, in 
 order to lessen the fatigue of the return to Geneva on the 
 morrow. It was worth the journey across the Atlantic, 
 •We thoucht, this visit to Mt. Blanc alone. 
 
DIARY. 27 
 
 July 27th — Berne to Brienz. — Having been entertained 
 by the Alpine views, the bears, and the wonderful music 
 boxes of Berne, we started this morning for Interlaken 
 The sail through the beautiful lake of Thun was very en- 
 joyable. It occupied about an hour. We had not been, 
 upon the water before since leaving the Lafayette, (the 
 great fete at Veray having prevented our contemplated 
 s.iil through the lake of Geneva.) and it was most refresh- 
 ing to feel the cool breeze, and breathe the exhilarating 
 air, as we sat upon the deck of the miniature steamer, 
 viewing the emerald setting of this gem-like lake. At 
 Neauhaus, we found stages waiting the arrival of the 
 boat, and were rapidly conveyed to Interlaken, a beauti- 
 fully and most romantically situated summer resort. 
 Here we dined, and passed several hours at the Belve- 
 dere. We found the people talking of the terrible acci- 
 dent of the Meitorliorn, whereby young Lord Douglass 
 and two of his companions lost their lives. To ou 1 ' 
 regret, the " Jungfrau " was not visible. Neither were 
 the friends we sought ; and therefore, having engaged 
 a private conveyance to Lucerne, we drove as far as 
 Brienz, on the lake of the same name. It was a 
 small inn at which we stopped, situated on the edge of 
 the water, and the windows of our rooms were delight- 
 fully located, looking out upon the little mountain-bound 
 lake, with the famous falls of Giesbach tumbling down 
 the mountain on the opposite side. How we wished, as 
 our eyes took in the grand and beautiful picture, that 
 those, who had gone from this world could have looked 
 upon these enchanting scenes ! Yet, may they not be in 
 a world where all is far more beautiful than aught that i* 
 here ? After we had partaken of some rest and refresh- 
 
28 DIARY. 
 
 inent, we crossed the lake in a rowboat, in " pitch dark-, 
 ness" and a drizzling rain, to visit the falls. It took us 
 an hour to cross the lake, and ascend half way to the top 
 of the height over which the water is precipitated. Mean- 
 while the rain increased, and the single lantern carried by 
 the guide was scarcely sufficient to show us the path 
 leading up the ascent through the forest; but when, 
 after waiting impatiently for some fifteen L minutes, the 
 illumination took place, we forgot everything in beholding 
 the magical spectacle. The cascade of water seemed in a 
 moment transformed into a cascade of flaming fire, of va- 
 rious hues, red, blue, green, and yellow. Viewed in the 
 surrounding " blackness of darkness," it almost seemed as 
 if we were permitted to look into the region where the 
 Stygian river overflowed its banks ! We could scarcely 
 talk of aught else but the illuminated falls of Griesbach, 
 and of the surprise and delight experienced when the im- 
 pressive spectacle suddenly burst upon our vision, while 
 descending the mountain and recrossing the lake to the 
 hotel. 
 
 Friday, Jul)/ 28th. — Brienz to — nowhere. Resumed our 
 journey to Lucerne this morning. Crossed the Brenig 
 mountain. About two, stopped at a wayside inn to dine 
 and feed the horses. The morning had been so exces- 
 sively warm as even to impair our enjoyment of the extra- 
 ordinary scenery which Sir Walter Scott has so graphic- 
 ally depicted in " Anne of Cleierstein." About two indi- 
 cations of a storm appeared. Two hours later we were 
 again on our way, and not long alter the rain began to 
 fall — slowly at first, but by-and-by in torrents. Pausing 
 under a covered bridge, which fortunately was near at 
 hand, we waited till the worst was over, and continued 
 
DIARY. 29 
 
 our journey, until a mountain torrent, which had washed 
 away a portion of the road, precluded further progress. 
 Back we went to an inn not far distant, and waited for 
 the torrent to run out. In half an hour thereafter, by the 
 help of half a dozen men, the carriage was brought over 
 the stones, and through the water which was rushing and 
 foaming across the road. It was at the risk of being- 
 overturned, and having the carriage broken, that we 
 passed; and scarcely had the passage been accomplished, 
 when a similar break in the highway appeared. But we 
 again succeeded in passing, and all went well until we 
 arrived at a point where a bridge had been carried away 
 by the flood. Owing, however, to the energy of our 
 driver, who pulled off his coat, and went to work with a 
 will — thus inspiring those who were listlessly looking on, 
 without a thought, apparently, of laboring to repair 
 the. damage done to work also — the delay was brief, 
 and soon our own and several other vehicles were safely 
 on the other side of the foaming stream. 
 
 We were destined to have an adventurous time. Pro- 
 ceeding only a short distance, we reached a second bridge- 
 less, rqshing rivulet, likewise impassable. But again it 
 was repaired, and we went a little farther, when we came 
 to a place where the effects of the severe and — as the Swiss 
 peasants informed us — unparalled storm was visible in 
 piles of earth and stone thrown across the entire passage 
 All got out, and walked over on foot, and on came the car- 
 riage, pitching from side to side, and being with difficulty 
 brought over by any means. Farther on.'^the windows of 
 our conveyance, almost brushed against the gnarled trunk 
 of an immense tree, which had been uprooted by the tem- 
 pest and overturned upon the road, leaving scarcely room 
 
30 DIARY. 
 
 to pass between it and the Lake of Lucerne, upon the 
 edge of which ran the road. Truly, the storm had been 
 " abroad in the mountains !" and there had been " war in 
 the skies." We began to realize that our position was not 
 only fearful, but, as M. Varlet, our courier, exclaimed, 
 "perfectly fearful." Still, the excitement kept off fear, 
 although the thought that some huge tree or boulder 
 might be precipitated upon our pitiless heads was not at 
 all a pleasant one. For aught we knew, we might be 
 buried alive. All agreed we would not " stage" it among 
 the Alps again in a storm — =and especially not on 
 Friday. 
 
 Hoping, notwithstanding the difficulties which lay in 
 our path, that we should before nightfall reach the town 
 to which we were destined, we did not despair, though con- 
 scious that our ride was a dangerous one, from what we 
 had seen. This was not to be, however. When within a 
 mile of Lucerne, we reached a part of the road where 
 earth, logs and stones had been piled in promiscuous con- 
 fusion, and to a considerable height, But, by skillful 
 manoeuvring, we might have passed even this spot, had 
 not a knowledge of the insurmountable obstacles a few 
 feet beyond precluded all thought of completing the jour- 
 ney, although? within a mile and a half of the town. 
 
 A little drinking tavern was at hand, and, by means of 
 chairs and boards, we were enabled to reach the steps 
 thereof dry-shod. The road was flooded in all directions, 
 and it was even difficult to effect a "landing" for the 
 carriage. We were not alone in our discomforture. A 
 party who had been traveling close behind us were in a 
 like situation, and found shelter for the night and from 
 the storm under the same roof. Our company was fur- 
 
* blARf* Si 
 
 ther increased by the addition of two young German lads, 
 who were making a pedestrian tour through the region* 
 The kind people gave up their own rooms and beds, (the 
 latter were not in all cases used,) and sent to the nearest 
 Village to get butter and eggs, and did all in their power 
 to comfort and oblige us. All the members of our party 
 appropriated the dining room to themselves, lying down 
 upon the sofas, tables and chairs* But we slept, never- 
 theless. 
 
 July 29th. — We rose at an unusually early hour, hoping 
 to take a row-boat from the point where we were, and 
 thereby reach the town without being obliged to retrace 
 our steps ; but the old scow, the only conveyance secura- 
 ble, was not fit ; and so we went in our carriage to Staii- 
 stadt, and waited for the little steamer which was to leave 
 at nine for Lucerne. As we rode through the village in 
 the pure, refreshing morning air and sunshine, we saw the 
 devastating effects of the storm of last evening, in the 
 desolate-looking hillsides, where the torrent, rushing down 
 the mountain, had loosened and carried away trees, turf and 
 rocks, and had, in a few hours, buried the gardens and 
 the carefully cultivated fields upon which the poor Switz- 
 ers had bestowed many days of hard labor. The little lake 
 steamer was punctual to a moment, and with passengers 
 and baggage (an unusual amount of both) on board, we 
 were soon gliding through the water towards the beauti- 
 fully-situated, though not otherwise prepossessing, town 
 of Lucern. In about three-quarters of an hour we 
 reached the lauding, and were soon luxuriating in the 
 Schweitzerhof, in rooms commanding a delightful view of 
 the lovely lake, the Rigi, and other blue-topped mountains- 
 
S2 DIARY. 
 
 Alter paying a satisfactory visit to the handsome marble 
 dining hall, we strolled through a part of the town, cross- 
 ing the old bridge, with its curious, old and faded pictures. 
 and winding about through some of the narrow, dark 
 streets of the town. Later, after a drive into the country, 
 over the fine hard road, and in view of the grand heights, 
 we visited the sculpture of the " Lion," after the cele- 
 brated model of Thorwalsden, executed in commemora- 
 tion of the death of the gallant Swiss Guard. It is a 
 marvelous production, and lie must be a callous man who 
 can view it unmoved. Art is grand, but nature is often 
 more powerful to stir the depths of one's whole nature. 
 We were in the midst of moving; scenes in more than in 
 one sense. The wondrous panorama was constantly 
 changing under the influence of the golden-tinted sunset 
 clouds which were reflected in the waters of the unruf- 
 fled lake, and the scenery at once so quiet and grand, and 
 exceedingly beautiful, as to melt the heart, and bring 
 back, with powerful vividness, all those tender scenes and 
 associations of the past which few have not experienced 
 during life's journey, and the remembrance of which bring 
 tears to the eyes of the beholder. 
 
 J ul ij olst.~ — Out of Switzerland — into Germany. About 
 ten we left our last resting-place in this land of unrivalled 
 grandeur, sublimity and beauty, for Baden-Baden. The 
 scenery changed gradually, though perceptibly, after 
 leaving Lucerne, and we took a last, lingering look at the 
 partially-obscured mountains, thinking, with more than, 
 regret, that it would probably be our last. We had 
 passed a delightful Sabbath on the shores of the lovely 
 lake, giving thanks for our deliverance from the perils of 
 
DIARY. 33 
 
 the storm by which we had been overtaken, and drinking 
 deeply of the pure and elevating enjoyments peculiar to 
 our situation in this unequalled region. A cloud, though' 
 not much bigger than a hand's bredth, resting upon the 
 Rigi, had rendered the ascent of that height unadvisablei 
 and so, disappointed, but filled with thrilling recollections 
 of this enchanting land, we journeyed on. Certainly this 
 world is surpassingly beautiful, and induces us too often to 
 forget the existence of another. But that other must, in 
 truth, be wonderful, if, notwithstanding all there is to en- 
 rapture one here, " it hath not entered into the heart of man 
 to conceive" its glories ! 0, Switzerland ! what man who 
 has crossed thy mountains, beheld thy vallies, floated upon 
 thy lakes, witnessed the descending storm and torrent 
 within thy borders, can for a moment wonder that thine 
 inhabitants love thee '? and that, if perchance they arc 
 forced to seek a foreign home, where no lofty mountain- 
 tops reach tip into the sky, pine for thee; and after years 
 of toil come back to enjoy thy grandeur? Wild and 
 beautiful — terrible and fascinating — thou art a land to 
 influence and control the soul of man, as is none other. 
 Farewell ! 
 
 At Barle we passed out of Switzerland and into Germany 
 The examination of our baggage was slight, and ere long 
 we were crossing the Rhine(!) and passing over the plains 
 and by the dykes of Germany. The contrast between this 
 scenery and that in the midst of which we were but a few 
 hours since was indeed extreme. It was about seven 
 when we reached this great and fashionable pleasure resort, 
 and too tired, dusty and hungry to commence sight-seeing, 
 or to attend the grand musical fete held that evening in 
 the " Conversation, " we walked through some of the 
 
 b 
 
;u itiAur. 
 
 Btreets, and returned to the "L'Europe" where we were 
 lulled to sleep by the sounds of the music coming from the 
 not far distant hall. 
 
 August 1st — Baden-Baden. — The first thing to be done 
 after leaving one's room in the morning, is to visit the 
 "Dri le," where the mineral waters are taken, and 
 
 where on showery mornings one lias a good opportunity 
 affor pre-breakfast exercise, and seeing the " in- 
 
 \: li y of whom present t s of robust 
 
 -, if not wicked jollity. But most interesting to be 
 : and enjoyed is the ride and visit to the Castle of the 
 vs, which has for so long a time been in ruins. We 
 spent some time in rambling over the remains of the fort- 
 ress, and from the top of the only tower left standing had 
 a fine view of the surrounding country. By means of a 
 good telescope, several distant towns on the borders of the 
 fthine are brought within the vision, and even some of the 
 buildings within those towns. When about half-way down 
 the mountain we stopped to inspect the Palace of the pres- 
 ent Duke of Baden, but were permitted to see only two or 
 three rooms in the main building, as the Duchess was within 
 the walls; but descending into the region of perpetual night, 
 in company with several other visitors, each of us having 
 been furnished with a lamp, we followed the guide through 
 the dungeons where, not three hundred years ago, deeds of 
 great cruelty were perpetrated ; and as we listened to these 
 tales of horror, congratulated ourselves that we had not 
 been born dukes in (hose days, and in that neighborhood. 
 1 hiving returned from the dark ages and the gloom of 
 midnight into the glorious light of noonday, we enjoyed 
 one of those charming drives through a park-like portion- 
 
DIARY. 35 
 
 of the town, beneath a fine avenue of trees, whose branches 
 meeting above our heads, afforded a most refreshing shade, 
 and beneath the bows of which, on either side of the road, 
 were romantic vistas, rustic seats, and lounging invalids. 
 Some of the latter were really infirm, and were being 
 moved through the grounds by servants in wheeled chahs 
 or carriages; while others, perchance, were killing time 
 by talking scandal, or reading the latest novel. 
 
 In the afternoon we found amusement in examining the 
 contents of the booths or small shops ranged around a 
 large square in the neighborhood of the C lion. 
 
 They were attended by people from a dozen diff urn- 
 
 tries, and the display of goods was as vari the pro- 
 
 ductions of the regions from whenc came. The 
 
 shopkeepers were remarkably polite ; but . ."it was 
 
 from respect to ourselves, or on account of divers trifling 
 purchases made, it would be difficult to 
 
 ' fhile dining at the table d'hote, we were furnished, 
 lor two kreutzers, with a list of visitors in the place. 
 (which is published daily.) and were amused to find the 
 announcement of the arrival of one of y " mit bed." 
 
 Not being acquainted with .' ion of the term, 
 
 and being not at all desirous to have the property of some 
 invalid traveler accounted as our own, we were not a little 
 puzzled, until informed that reference was had to the 
 courier who accompanied us! Dim r with hun- 
 
 dreds of fellow sojourners, we secured seats fronting the 
 handsome hall, listened to the fine inspiriting music of the 
 band, and w T atched the gay throng of pleasure-seekers. 
 The change of mood produced upon the people by the 
 varied music without, answered to the exciting freaks of 
 fortune and clink of sold, which alternately agitated those 
 
36 DIARY. 
 
 ;it the gaming table within the Conversation. We visited 
 the hall between the hours pi" nine and ten, and watched 
 the players and the game. It was a sad though fascina- 
 ting spectacle, and finished our sjght-seeing for the day. 
 
 August 2d. — Baden-Baden to Frankfort. About half- 
 past eleven o'clock we left Baden-Baden, the fashionable 
 and extremely picturesque watering-place of the world, 
 for Frankfort-on-the-Main. Journeying for a time through 
 the region of the Black Forest, we found much to admire 
 and delight the eye, and were enjoying all the pleasure 
 and excitement incident to a first ride on the German rail- 
 way, when the arrival of the train at Bruchsal Junction 
 put an end to our enjoyment for a longer period than the 
 time-being, and brought the blackness of darkness upon 
 our spirits — making this journey one which will be for- 
 ever memorable. We learned (through Dr. Dodge, of 
 N. Y., who w r as journeying in the same train with our- 
 selves) that one, who had but a few weeks since, with a 
 beaming face waved us a glad adieu as we sailed away 
 from our native land, and who who was then in the full 
 flush of budding manhood, had sickened, died and (ere we 
 knew that he was ill) been buried. Even as the intense 
 heat of summer withers and kills the young plant, so had 
 a virulent fever destroyed the vitality and burned up the 
 life of him whom we were to see no more. Still we jour- 
 neyed on, one in sympathy — well nigh one in feeling — un- 
 mindful of scenes which no longer had power to attract 
 our gaze, excite our imagination, and awaken new and 
 varied interest — we thought only of those dear ones who 
 had gone " the way of all the earth," and would ne'er 
 welcome us back with joy when all our wanderings are 
 
DIART. 37 
 
 o'er. We scareely knew whether we were not, even yet, 
 travelling through the " Black Forest," so utterly had all 
 enthusiasm departed from our souls, and so very dark was 
 the cloud that rested upon our spirits. By nightfall we 
 reached the end of our day's pilgrimage, and after driving 
 to several hotels, all of which were crowded to their ut- 
 most capacity, we at length obtained most comfortable 
 quarters in the Hotel of the Roman Emperor. 
 
 August ilk — Frankfort. — Nature seems often to sympa- 
 thize with nations, as, when during a protracted war, the 
 dull, heavy, threatening clouds have for days hung over 
 the field of battle, and cast gloom upon the whole region 
 for many miles around. And sometimes the very heavens 
 seem to veil their glories, lest they should mock individual 
 grief. So at least it appears to the sorrower. The last 
 two days have indeed been dark and dreary ; but they 
 have brought relief; inasmuch as dead certainty is more 
 endurable than dread suspense. The worst is over. We 
 bow to the decree, and yield to the absolute necessity of 
 continuing our travels. 
 
 Under ordinary circumstances, this city furnishes the 
 traveler with many interesting objects for contemplation. 
 Its historical associations are not few in number. The 
 house is standing in which the author of Faust was born ; 
 and we were told it was the place whence the world- 
 famous Jew family — the Rothschilds—originated. We 
 have had but a glimpse of the city, and have seen only a 
 few of its principal buildings. This morning we uncov- 
 ered our heads in the cathedral wherein die emperors of 
 Germany were crowned for many years. The KaisersiiJl 
 where we saw likenesses from Conrad I. to Francis II. » 
 
3S DIAUY 
 
 we next visited ; and afterward a gallery of statuary, 
 where we saw the exquisite piece of private property, 
 <: Ariadne and the Lion." Driving through the Ross 
 Market, we saw the fine monuments of Goethe and Gut- 
 tenberg, both of which are admirable works of art; and 
 the latter we thought should have a statue erected to his 
 memory in every land, and in every city of importance in 
 the world. Leaving the heart of the city, we rode round 
 its edg?, where the residences of the wealthy citizens 
 stand. They presented a most attractive appearance, 
 many of them fronting upon the fine public walks and 
 gardens which encircle this city. 
 
 August 5th — The Rhinel — After breakfast, without the 
 slightest wish to remain an hour longer within the city of 
 Frankfort, we packed our portmanteaus and prepared to 
 depart. The leaden clouds still overshadowed us, and 
 threatened rain, when we got into the railway carriage for 
 a short ride to Mayence, whence we embarked on one of 
 the very narrow iron steamers to descend the Rhine. 
 Scarcely had the passengers taken their seats, when the 
 rain began to fall, and the wind to blow it upon the deck. 
 The slight awning, which was hardly more than a pro- 
 tection from the sun, proved an insufficient shelter from 
 the storm ; and those who had taken an outside seat in 
 order the better to see and enjoy the scenery, were soon 
 obliged to change places. Almost all clay the rain con- 
 tinued to fall, and the weather was depressing and tem- 
 pestuous. It bore some resemblance to the grief and 
 agitation of tbe feelings of our own minds. Nevertheless, 
 neither the darkness of day, nor the heavy weight upon 
 our spirits, had power to prevent us from looking* and 
 
beeolniiig interested and excited as vye looked, upon the 
 '* Panorama du Rliin /" Not to .speak of the wondrous scer> 
 ery piled up before our vision, nor of the eager interest which 
 seemed to animate all our fellow-voyagers, the mere 
 thought that we were actually floating upon the bosom of 
 a river which history and poetry has rendered so re- 
 nowned, was alone calculated to stimulate our minds; 
 We were at once in the midst of stirring associations, and 
 were carried back to bygone ages, when travelling on the 
 Rhine was not so safe and pleasant — though far more ad- 
 venturous — than it now is. Then, the voyager knew not 
 whether he should ever get beyond the next turn in the 
 stream; or, if he did, whether the passage would not cost 
 him the loss of all that he possessed. Then, the towering 
 mountain-tops were crowned with uninjured castles, stand- 
 ing in all their grim strength and terror, and their lordly inha- 
 bitants preparing, perchance, to bring death and destruction 
 upon some unsuspecting, though not unenvied baron; 
 Then horrors were perpetrated upon noble and innocent 
 men, to satisfy the fiendish passions of their captors— acts 
 of cruelty far more terrible than death. Now all is 
 changed, and we say " A blessing on the Rhine !" Ah ! 
 the dead past was indeed a dread past, and a Christian 
 man must rejoice more in the "living present." Truly as 
 the centre of one of those dark, damp, horrid corridors, ex- 
 cavated in the very heart of the mountains, was the dark- 
 est, so were the middle ages the darkest of all, and wit- 
 nessed the most unrelenting tyranny and blood-thirstiness 
 that the world has ever known. Luther was the deliverer 
 not of his own country alone, but of the world ; and never, 
 unless the Bible shall again become chained, will the 
 terrors of the past be reproduced. 
 
io 
 
 DIAltY. 
 
 But romance as well as history, and fancy as well as 
 fact, lias woven a net-work of enchantment over this re- 
 gion. Bingen, on the one hand, recalls the story of the 
 monse-tower, and the vinos of ancient growth which 
 cover the mountain-sides recall to our mind the poetry <>t 
 " vine-clad hills." The beautiful wooded islands which 
 we arc constantly passing, the precipices of sheer rock 
 rising far above our heads on either side, and the crumb- 
 ling ruins which, more than all else, invest the Rhine with 
 undying interest, combine to fill the mind of the spec- 
 tator with emotions too varied and tumultuous to be with 
 ease described. 
 
 \Ve envied the hour spent in the tiny cabin whence we 
 could obtain only a port-hole view (/ess than a " bird's-eye" 
 view) of the impressive panorama. But the excitement of 
 mind and exposure we bad undergone rendered it neces- 
 sary that we Should take so'me bodily stimulant as well ; 
 and so, following some fifty or more passengers into a 
 little apartment, which would not, under other than ex- 
 traordinary circumstances, have been judged of sufficient 
 size to accommodate one-half of that number, we took 
 seats at what might, by a great stretch of courtesy, (though 
 not an arm's length in width,) be called a table. Rut it 
 was made to hold a great deal. It would be a difficult 
 matter even to conjecture from whence came the bountiful 
 supply of eatables. The ship must have had an India- 
 rubber compartment. Course after course was put upon 
 the " shelf" at which we sat ; and notwithstanding the 
 time occupied in making occasional excursions to the 
 deck, (that it'll the passing sights might not be lost,) none 
 went away unsatisfied: Hunger oh board the' little river 
 craft, and at its miniature fable d y Htote, was evidentlv nn- 
 
DIARY. it 
 
 known ; nor could one complain of thirst after having 
 drunk a bottle of the famous Johannisberg wine. 
 
 The after-dinner event of the day was the passing of the 
 castle of Rolandsack, and of the forest-embowered con- 
 vent of Nonnenworth, on an island in the river directly 
 opposite the ruined castle. The mournful story of despair- 
 ing love, as told by Schiller, will never be forgotten while 
 language remains, and even now brings tears to the eyes 
 of those whose feelings are not easily stirred. More than 
 the superstition of Andernach, and the countless other 
 legends of the Rhine that rivet the attention of the listener, 
 does this tale of pa:ient misery affect the heart — not in the 
 way of weak sentimentalism, but with those more noble 
 impulses and thoughts which filled the mind of the hero 
 of " Hyperion " — the desire to live ; to carry on the grand 
 campaign of life ; to wage war against evil, and overcome 
 with good ! 
 
 At length the shadows of evening fell ; the rain ceased ; 
 and the sky was all of a mellow, golden hue. Not a few 
 with whom we had commenced the journey were no 
 longer with us. All was quiet. Silently we glided 
 through the water. It was a time of peace and content. 
 We thought of those who had journeyed with us down 
 the river of life for years — who had looked forward to the 
 time when they should be so situated as we then were, 
 and likewise look upon these hills crowned with hoary 
 castles, or covered with cheerful clusters of grapes, and 
 enjoy all the pleasures incident to the tour. But they 
 had gone where pleasures are forevermore, and left us be- 
 hind. In the full flush of their young life they had passed 
 away. " Death," says the author of the " Lady of the 
 Lake," " is dreadful at all ages ; but in the first springtide 
 
 G 
 
42 DURT. 
 
 of youth, with all the feelings of enjoyment afloat, and 
 eager for gratification, to be snatched forcibly from the 
 banquet to which the individual has but just sat^down, is 
 peculiarly appalling." And so it would seem; hut may 
 it not be that they had already enjoyed the banquet — 
 those whom we counted lost ? We had been enjoying 
 the " Paradise of Germany ;" but were not they enjoying 
 the Paradise above ? 
 
 August 1th. — For years we had looked upon the Cathe- 
 dral of Cologne, (or Coin as it is called here) as represented 
 in very accurate engravings, and wondered whether wo 
 should ever stand within its w r alls. For years we had been 
 familiar with the mysterious legend relating to the archi- 
 tect of the magnificent edifice, and conjectured as to whe- 
 ther we wouid be permitted to behold its unfinished tower. 
 To day we have done both ! one is oppressed with its im- 
 mensity w r hen view T ed without, and contrasted with the 
 highest buildings standing beside it ;' and impressed with 
 its vast and magnificent proportions as, with bare head, 
 and light tread, he reverently enters, and stands trans- 
 fixed with.' miite admiration. Truly it is the grandest work 
 that man's hands have ever yet fornled. One feels when 
 viewing it, that undefined, undefinable awe which moves 
 one when witnessing some great phenomena of nature. 
 Worship becomes instinct in such a place; and it needs 
 not the voice's of the priests, nor the transporting music 
 of the choir, to lead one to do homage to man's creator. 
 
 Besides this first and awful building, we have seen other 
 famous edifices for which Cologne is celebrated ; but there 
 aire others which we have not visited, although well wor- 
 thy of being inspected even at great sacrifice. Among these 
 
DIARY. 43 
 
 is the house in which the immortal [painter. Rubens, was 
 born ; and several venerable churches of note. But we 
 have seen enough to employ our tongues, and occupy our 
 minds ! and this afternoon we [are off for Brussels ; the 
 " little Paris " of Belgium. 
 
 August Sth, Brussels. — As we sit by our windows in the 
 Hotel de Belle Yue, and look upon the fine statue of God- 
 frey of Bouillon, in the handsome square of the Place 
 Royal, we are forced to concede to the universal opinion 
 that the Belgian Capital is a delightful city. With the 
 gaity of Paris it appears to possess something of the sol- 
 idity of an English city, and it has many worthy claims up- 
 on the time and attention of the visitor. The Palace of 
 the Prince of Orange ; the Hotel de Ville ; the Cathedral j 
 the church of St. Jaques ; the Museum and "Museede la 
 Industrie " and the Lace manufactories are some of the 
 most interesting objects to be seen. The beautiful spire 
 of the Hotel de Ville, (Town Hall) was something to which 
 our notice was especially called; and it is indeed worth 
 studying. The hall itself was undergoing repairs ; but we 
 were so fortunate as to gain admittance, and were conduc- 
 ted by a guide through the handsome senate chamber and 
 hall of representatives. The former presented the appear- 
 ance of a theatre far more than it did a, place for political 
 discussion. All its appointments were tasteful and elegant. 
 Before leaving the hall we were shown portraits of the 
 King * and Queen, and a piece of tapistry very remark- 
 able on account of its great age. But some of the choicest 
 pictures, by celebrated artists, which we saw in the mui 
 
 * Sintc deceaied. 
 
44 DIARY. 
 
 scum afforded more entertainment than aught else. One by 
 Reubens, particularly. The coloring of the flesh and gar- 
 ments, considering their great age, is really wonderful. 
 Not being distracted by the multitude of ^paintings which 
 bewilders one in the galleries of Paris, we studied them 
 quietly and more deliberately, and thought them exceed- 
 ingly beautiful. What a privilege do they enjoy who can 
 come daily and drink in the full expression and deep mean- 
 ing of these masterly works of art ! A long drive in and 
 about the city, has enabled us to appreciate its spacious 
 Boulevards, gardens and fine monuments, which make 
 Brussels so bright and cheerful and add so largely to the 
 happiness of its inhabitants. 
 
 August 9th, Waterloo. — Having secured a private con- 
 veyance last evening, we left the " Belle Vue " about ten 
 this morning for the field of Waterloo. After a pleasant 
 ride of two hours, the greater part of which was through a 
 cool, shady wood of spruce and pine trees — the forest of 
 Soignies — we arrived in the village about two. Picking 
 up a guide at the little hotel near the village, we drove 
 around the field, and were made acquainted with the vari- 
 ous locations of the armies and their commanders. It is 
 said that the guides have three separate stories of the bat- 
 tle. One for the English, another for the French visitor, 
 and a third for the American traveler. But however this 
 may be, our guide seemed to be possessed of some accu- 
 rate information, and was " born upon the spot." Our 
 first visit was to the farm of Hougoument, where the 
 English were concentrated in force. Here we put our fingers 
 into the bullet-holes in some of the old walls still stand- 
 ing, and picked some little blue-bells from the spot where. 
 
DIARY. 45 
 
 the fight had been the most determined, and where the grass 
 grew as if it still luxuriated from the blood which had there 
 been shed so lavishly. Next we ascended to the top of the 
 " mound" monument, erected in the year 1S52, and took 
 a general survey of the celebrated battle-field. The 
 guide continued to point out the place where this or that 
 attack was made, and the precise spot where this or that 
 genera} was killed. It was a place to learn great lessons 
 — the folly of human greatness and godless ambition. 
 Here the man who had defied the world: — the great though 
 not the good man — was crushed, humiliated, defeated. 
 The man of blood, who used human life as a tool to exe- 
 cute his schemes of self-exaltation, met with a just retri- 
 bution, and saw his armies— even that division un- 
 der his most trusted and greatest general, Marshal Ney — 
 defeated, cut to pieces, and almost annihilated. What 
 Napoleon's feelings must have been when his last well- 
 disciplined corps was repulsed, and when there were no 
 reserve regiments at hand to whom he could issue the stern 
 command, " Onward ! Onward !" no ordinary man can even 
 imagine. We could well nigh weep for him, so intense must 
 his sufferings have been. Defeat to his finely-organized, 
 proud spirit, must have been many times worse than death. 
 In an hour his career of success and glory was at an end, and 
 he was reckoned among the great but unfortunate heroes 
 of the world. So long as the sun and moon endure will 
 men continue to hold various and antagonistic opinions 
 regarding his character — to bless or to curse his memory. 
 But so long as the world endures must the author of the 
 " Code Napoleon" be had in lasting remembrance. Until 
 the time shall come when " nations shall learn war no 
 more," will men be found who will delight to honor the 
 
46 DIARY. 
 
 mighty general, to hang immortelles upon his monument, 
 and make a pilgrimage to the spot where his remains are 
 entombed. The intellectual, too, will worship his woiir 
 derful powers of mind ; and, above all his countrymen, 
 " the French people," will constitute him their patron 
 saint, point with pride and delight to those grand and 
 beautiful edifices which adorn their capital, and exalt him 
 as the greatest of the great — the incomparable Empcrcur y 
 Napoleon Bonaparte. 
 
 We returned by the ordinary road, passing the little 
 inn in which the Duke of Wellington lodged. We 
 stopped at a small church, where many of the officer* 
 and privates who fell upon the hotly-contested field hard- 
 by were either buried or had tablets erected to their 
 memories. Several of the inscriptions were affecting, and 
 most all interesting, on account of the youth of the vic- 
 tims. We reached the hotel about half-past six, and after 
 some refreshment rambled through one of the principal 
 shop-streets, visiting the well-stocked galleries of Goupiel 
 .& Co., (with its familiarly sounding name,) the handsome 
 arcade of St. Hubert, and several smaller establishments. 
 Stopping at one of the latter — a glove emporium — one of 
 our party purchased a pair of gloves ; but for some reason 
 or other did not succeed in getting them on with ease. 
 Fearing they were too small, or would not bear the strain 
 put upon them, he made some remark to that effect ; 
 whereupon, much to his surprise, the young girl reached 
 over the counter, took possession of his hand, and with a 
 few vigorous pulls — such as no inferior article could have 
 endured composedly — proved the correctness of her judg. 
 ment by making the article fit exquisitely. The thing 
 was dope in a trice, and in a perfectly dignified man- 
 
DIALY. 47 
 
 ner ; and although there was, perhaps, the slightest 
 possible expression of displeasure on the good-looking 
 nice of the girl, she manifested it in no other way; and no 
 extra charge was made oil account of the unusual honor 
 conferred. 
 
 August \Oth~Antivcrp. — Visited this olcf city to-day. 
 It is as dull at the present time as it once was prosperous. 
 But it will always attract the traveller while those grand 
 old temples and works of unrivalled art remain within its 
 ancient walls. We have, to-day, stood upon the pave- 
 ment of its famous cathedral, and viewed those wonderful 
 paintings by Rubens, the descent from and the elevation 
 of the cross — pictures the like of which' we hacf never seen 
 before, and which, having been seen once, are never to be 
 forgotten. They are not to be looked at merely, but to be- 
 quietly, earnestly studied. Paint is the most insignificant 
 part of these masterpieces — the necessary material only — 
 the Coloring, notwithstanding the age is wonderful ; but 
 it is the expression of the whole and of each part that 
 makes the works so glorious. Truly Rubens must have 
 believed in his heart that the scene which he has so rep- 
 resented as to enrapture thousands was really enacted ;' 
 and may it not be considered as a proof of the divinity of 
 the subject of both paintings, that these great productions 
 of a marvelous genius possess the power to rivet the at- 
 tention of the beholder, and so affect his heart? 1 May it 
 not be that many a man has gone from the presence of 
 these eloquent though silent preachers of Christianity, to 
 examine the foundations of that system which he had be- 
 fore that hour regarded as a weak superstition ? While 
 we would hope" that such good results have been accom- 
 plished, it cannot be doubted that, aside from the d£ep 
 
iS DIAKY. 
 
 pleasure and satisfaction they have yielded to hundreds of 
 adoring pilgrims, their presence in the city is, like the art 
 treasures of the Italian cities, a means of support to not a 
 few of the inhabitants who gain their livelihood by ex- 
 hibiting them, and by satisfying the wants of the many 
 travelers hither ward. 
 
 The church itself, with its cloud-touching and very 
 beautiful spire, is an interesting object to contemplate 
 and admire, as are several other structures which we after- 
 ward visited. Indeed Antwerp is rich in splendid church 
 edifices, as Well as in their valuable adornments. The 
 museum, also, contained many productions of art, deserv- 
 ing more than the few moments that we could spare for 
 each of them: Paintings by Rubens, Van Dyke, and 
 others. Two pictures — the decapitation of John the Bap- 
 tist, and the martyrdom of a certain saint — were among 
 the most horrible that had ever met our vision. 
 
 After dinner, at the fine Hotel St. Antoine, (during the 
 preparation of which we read with regret of the failure of 
 the second attempt to lay the Atlantic cable,) we climbed 
 to the top of the tower of the cathedral, whence we ob- 
 tained a superb view. We looked into a new country, one 
 we had n6t seen, and did not intend to explore. To the 
 east, the monotonous plains and canals of Holland were 
 plainly visible. From thence came Rip Van Winkle, his 
 successors and predecessors". It would have been in- 
 teresting, in some respects, to have visited the Nether- 
 lands ; but we had not yet seen our own fatherland ; and 
 so, with one wistful, lingering look, we quitted the cathe- 
 dral. Driving through the commercial part of the city, 
 we passed the fine dock built by direction of Napoleon, 
 and, in the' course of our drive, saw the handsome steam- 
 
1JIAKT. 49 
 
 yacht in which Queen Victoria had come from England 
 to attend the inauguration of the monument erected to 
 the memory of Prince Albert, at Saxe Coburg Gotha. 
 The quays are evidences of the importance of Antwerp as 
 a great sea port, at one time ; and even now the neigh- 
 boring region is the livliest in the city. 
 
 August Wth — Brussels to Paris.— Left Brussels at an 
 early hour, in order to accomplish the long journey of 
 215 miles before night. We met with little incident 
 during the ride ; and before six o'clock were again iri 
 Paris, and among the favored guests of the magnificent 
 Grand Hotel. It is very pleasant to be in this sparkling 
 city again. It seems for the moment like being at home. 
 Notwithstanding all the delights experienced during our 
 three weeks' tour in Switzerland, Germany and Begium, 
 it is a satisfaction to be where one can hear regularly 
 from loved ones at home. The thrilling enjoyments of 
 the past are over, it is true, and may not be enjoyed again 
 save in the revelings of memory; but what has been is 
 ours ; it cannot be forgotten ; and were our pleasures to 
 end here, we should have thoughts laid up for many 
 years, and be grateful for the inestimable privileges and 
 opportunities we have enjoyed of seeing with our eyes 
 some of the greatest wonders of the world. 
 
 August 15th, Paris.-**- It is evening, and the great yc/c 
 day, called the Emperor's, is ended. It has been a great 
 day to the children of the Empire, and a very novel one' 
 to the stranger within the gates of the imperial city. 
 Leaving the hotel about two, we drove as near as possible 
 to the Plazd des Invalidcs, where the multitude wero 
 
 7 
 
oO DIAKT. 
 
 cfciefly assembled to witness the free theatrical perform-' 
 aDces, gymnastic exhibitions, tight-rope dancing, etc., etc. 
 The first of these amusements was highly sensational, and 
 even the occasional very tragical death of some one of the 
 performers partook largely of the ludicrous (although 
 very popular with a majority of the spectators). Not so 
 the feats of strength, some of which were astonishing ; 
 and it was wonderful to note the perseverance with which 
 (allowing themselves but brief intervals of rest) these sons 
 of Hercules continued to excite the applause of the pleased 
 spectators. It seemed, too, as if the poor dancing girls 
 would utterly fail ; but still they kept it up, round after 
 round, without any flagging. Perhaps the most amusing 
 of all the " sights" was the climbing of the greased poles. 
 One adventurer would go but a little way, and give up 
 the undertaking ; another, when almost to the top, and 
 within but a short distance of the prize, would (either 
 for want of strength or patience) come down amid the 
 groans of the multitude ; while a third, carefully hus- 
 banding his strength, would finally succeed in reaching 
 the silver regions, and after picking a flower, and making 
 a hasty choice, would seize a silver tankard, and, while 
 cheer after cheer rent the air, quietly slide to the ground. 
 Occasionally a furor would be caused by some wild re- 
 port that the Emperor (who was known to have lately 
 repaired to the camp at Chalons) was coming, and the 
 excited crowd would look in every direction in which it 
 would be possible for his majesty to approach. It did not 
 take many moments, however, for them to become again 
 absorbed in the surrounding pleasures of the hour. About 
 three, the rain began to fall, and for a time the crowd 
 scattered. Now the venders of wine and divers sorts of 
 
DIARY. 5! 
 
 refreshments became very busy. People of all sorts, seek- 
 ing shelter from the rain, tilled their tents or booths: 
 and as all who availed themselves of these coverings were 
 expected to spend a few sous, the owners reaped a good 
 harvest. Soon, however, the people became accustomed 
 to the rain ; and as there was no cessation of the freo 
 performances, they again rilled the open spaces, and all 
 went on as before. Mingling with them freely, to see 
 for ourselves, and enjoy their enjoyment, we were as- 
 tonished at the good humor and total absence of all 
 roughness. 
 
 Each and every one seemed to be quietly pursuing 
 his pleasure, and what if many of the pastimes seemed 
 fit only to beguile a child, so long as they answered the 
 purpose of bringing joy to the hearts of the common people, 
 whose daily toil was constantty adding to the beauty ofthe 
 city, and increasing its innumerable attractions. How- 
 can men w 7 ho have scarcely sufficient leisure to obtain ner 
 cessary sleep and recreation be expected to be more than 
 children in intellect. And certainly abetter behaved mulr 
 titude were not to be found in any part of the world. 
 None were noisy ; not one did we see who was in the 
 slightest degree intoxicated. Besides the greater attrac- 
 tions prepared for the amusement of the people by the 
 government, there were a legion of lesser centres of at- 
 traction gotten up for the purpose of private speculation, 
 by people who were walling to forego the listless enjoy- 
 ment of the day themselves, if by any means they might 
 add to their precious store of savings by amusing their 
 fellow-countrymen, and thereby secure a small portion of 
 the sous which would be spent to-day by the poorest 
 peasant. 
 
52 DIARY. 
 
 From the time the rain commenced, it continued with 
 brief intermissions until past seven o'clock. About 
 half- past five, we left the scenes of festivity, and drove to 
 the Restaurant de Petit Moulin Rouge, in the Champ dc 
 Ely sec, where, with keen appetites, we enjoyed a well- 
 served and in all respects most satisfactory dinner. Din- 
 ner over, we again took seats in the carriage, and went to 
 see the fireworks. But all the avenues leading to the Champ 
 de Mars were guarded, and it was impossible to approach 
 the spot whither the whole city (save the poor soldiers 
 who had been confined ail day in the barracks) were bend- 
 ing their steps. But at length we succeeded in getting 
 upon a somewhat elevated road, and here we waited 
 patiently until the hour when the display was to take 
 place should arrive. It was some time before the signal 
 rocket was fired, and the air was raw and damp. But 
 when at length the magnificent display commenced, wo 
 forgot the past in the surprise and delight which the en- 
 tertainment afforded. The " bouquet," as the last piece 
 was called, was beautiful beyond description. It was 
 soon over, and we were following in the wake of a line 
 of carriages a mile long, and driving through all the illu- 
 minated parts of the city on which vehicles were allowed 
 to enter. For the first time in many years the occupants 
 of the carriages were allowed the privilege of a short 
 drive in the Champs de Elysce on the evening of this Au- 
 gust day. The place looked transformed, and with the 
 brilliantly lighted cafes and resorts of various kinds on 
 either side of the broad avenue, it presented a truly daz- 
 zling appearance. In some of the Boulevards through 
 which we rode were buildings, the windows of which were 
 glittering with light ; and the various devices and inscrip- 
 
DIaET, 53 
 
 tions in honor of the Emperor, arid in commemoration of 
 the day, were striking and beautiful. Altogether the 
 illumination, though not as brilliant as might have been 
 expected, was enlivening, and could not well have beeii 
 spared from the generous entertainment. The reaction 
 would have been too great had the gorgeous blaze of fire- 
 works, when they died out, left the city in gloom. It was 
 more fitting that the joyous excitement should gradually 
 subside, and light after light should go out, as score after 
 score of the people went to their homes. And so it was . 
 And when, near midnight, we entered the illuminated 
 court of the hotel, we did not regret that the end had 
 come, and that we had witnessed the successful termina-, 
 tion of the great " Empcrevr's Fete." 
 
 August 23d.— The end of our second month of travel 
 finds us in Paris, and better acquainted, at least with its 
 outside life, than during so brief a residence amid its splenr 
 dors, we should have supposed possible, and than would 
 perhaps, have been possible had we not enjoyed the guid- 
 ance and companionship of our esteemed friends Dr. and 
 Mrs. James B. Gould, of Rome, (formerly of New- York,) 
 whose long residence abroad has made them well acquain- 
 ted with Paris, as well as Italy ; and who have, fortunate-, 
 ly, apartments in the Grand Hotel. 
 
 The Parisians walk about, and in all respects act, as if 
 hurry and worry were to be avoided as much as the 
 plague, and we found that by imitating them we really 
 learned more of Paris life, than we would or could have 
 done had we maintained those restless, anxious habits 
 which characterize so many of our countrymen. For a 
 couple of sous one can secure a seat in the lively square of 
 
the Palais Royal, a mi by sitting there, and opening his 
 eyes and ears, he can learn and see more in a single after- 
 noon, than he could in several days spent in many other 
 determinate though ill-directed endeavors to become ac- 
 quainted with the people and their customs. We had been 
 dining at the Cafes, attending the open air concerts in the 
 Champ deElysee; continuing our evening rambles through 
 the arcades and passages, varied by an occasional attendance 
 upon some place of amusement ; visiting themint and other 
 places of interest not before visited, doing a little shop- 
 ping, and so forth. To our regret we have not yet seen 
 the Emperor, although we visited some days ago the 
 Palace of the Tuilleries. Although the Emperor is ab- 
 sent, evidences of his power and authority are not want- 
 ing. The work of the embellishment of the city still goes 
 on. A great deal of destruction is preceding the recon- 
 struction ; but it may perhaps be doubted whether tho 
 Emperor is not a demolisher of men as well as of build 
 ings. He is crafty, and knows too much thought 
 among the people is not good for them ; or, if good for 
 them, is not likely to strengthen the hands of an absolute 
 monarchy. Every exertion is made to gratify sense, and 
 special efforts are put forth on Sunday to induce the 
 people to regard it as a gala day ; to cause them, as one. 
 well expressed it, to " forget that they are accountable 
 beings.' ; Still, one may live as he pleases in Paris ; and 
 this is the special privilege of all who reside in large 
 towns ; although few cities command the advantages 
 which one who resides in Paris may enjoy. Few others 
 offer the same opportunities for high mental and scientific 
 culture, and not one holds out so many attractions to the 
 mere votary of pleasure ; and although religion appears 
 
to be as little thought of as a poor man, vet it is a mis- 
 take to suppose that one cannot be religious because he 
 is in the midst of a gay throng, of whom it may be truly 
 said, that " God is not in all their thoughts." In mosC 
 things it may be best, " when in Rome, to do as the 
 Romans do ;" but it is not always essential, nor is it' 
 always right. 
 
 Thursday, August 24//?.— It is seven weeks this morn-' 
 ing since we landed at Havre. To-day is to be our last 
 in Paris and on the continent of the Old World, as we are 
 hoping to leave for England — upon the soil of which land 
 we have not yet trodden — to-morrow morning. We have 
 taken a long stroll on the Boulevards, Rue Rivoli, Vivi- ; 
 enne, St. Honore, and other of the livliest streets, taking 
 a parting looR at the shops, and purchasing a few last 
 mementoes of our visit. Have this evening looked for 
 the last time upon the gay gas-lit streets, swarming with 
 inhabitants of all ages and characters, and which are for 
 brilliancy unequalled in' the world. Taken our first and 
 last dinner at the table d'hote in the magnificent Salle a 
 Manger of the hotel, and are now about to lie down and 
 seek a final night's rest beneath a veritable '* French 
 root." 
 
 Friday, August 2'jth — France to England.— Breakfasted 
 a little before eight in the restaurant of the Grand Hotel, 
 and not long after, for the fifty-first and last time, drove 
 out of the grand court for the handsome depot of the 
 " Clumin de fer du Nord" At nine o'clock and ten 
 minutes, precisely, the train left the depot, and at half 
 past one reached Bologne. Here we were detained an 
 
50 MAItY. 
 
 hour, being conveyed to the pier in omnibuses, and being 
 obliged to wait the arrival and shipment of the baggage. 
 The crossing of the channel was accomplished in a couple 
 of hours, and with but slight discomforture to a few of tin; 
 lady passengers only. We were especially fortunate, not 
 only on account of the weather, but because of our meet- 
 ing with valued friends, whom it had been our happiness 
 to ffreet both in Geneva and Paris. The fresh breeze 
 and salt air were very refreshing, and many concomitant 
 circumstances tended to raise our health and spirits. On 
 our arrival at Folkestone, we landed amidst a con- 
 course ot people. We felt that we were indeed " a sight 
 to behold," being not only weary and travel-worn, but 
 travel-soiled as well. However, we were not disposed to 
 quarrel with the fair Saxon girls who had come to wel- 
 come us to the shores of " Merrie England." 
 
 By the express train we were transported, in less than 
 two hours, to Charing Cross Station, and descending, like 
 St. Nicholas, from the region of chimne}--tops and of 
 smoke, with our packs upon (not our own, but the 
 porter's) backs we were, in less than ten hours from the 
 time we left the French capital, in London ! The exami- 
 nation of our luggage (no one travels with baggage m this 
 country) was very slight, but one trunk and one bag, out 
 of the three trunks and three bags, being opened. With 
 no very long delay, we were rattling over the pavements 
 in the direction of the Palace Hotel, Buckingham Gate, 
 where we found quiet, comfortable, delightful quarters. 
 After getting rid of the dust of travel, we dined ; and 
 during the evening B. and myself walked down the Strand 
 in search of a map of London. This morning we ate 
 breakfast in Paris — this evening we were strolling in 
 
JoiAia.' 07 
 
 London ! It is pleasant to hear our own tongue spoken 
 by all around us again, and to be able to get what we 
 want without fear (there was no ground for fear, as the 
 French never laugh at others) of making people laugh at 
 us because of our trembling, hesitating pronunciation of 
 the French. So much real, earnest life do we expect to 
 find here, which one might look for in vain in Paris, that 
 it is a relief to feel that the transformation has taken 
 place. 
 
 Saturday, August 2&tk. — The change from Pans (o fchs 
 equally-famous, though more solemn, city of London, is 
 great. It was hard to realize, on waking this morning, 
 that we were really in the mother country — in the land 
 whence came those from whom we were lineally de- 
 scended, and where those great men lived and labored 
 whose immortal works had helped to form our characters 
 and inform our minds. Whatever may be the feelings 
 which one nation may bear or may have born towards 
 another, justice demands that prejudice should not be al- 
 lowed to interfere with the appreciation of intrinsic 
 worth. So long as reverence and affection are stronger 
 than hate, so long must all true-born, noble-hearted 
 Americans love old England. Though the younger na- 
 tion be equal in poorer in many respects, and superior in 
 natural and undeveloped' resources to the elder, yet how 
 can she speak with natfea of that land from whence the' 
 pilgrim fathers .came ! (Vide Macaulay.) The land fronV 
 which she derived her language, and, indirectly, her solid 
 e.haracter and consequent strength. We have no affection 
 for titles, no slavish cringing before the British Lion, and 
 yet we rejoice "that we are in England. 
 
fi|8 DIAU1'. 
 
 We left the hotel about half-past twelve, and drove 
 first to the office of the old American banker, George 
 Peabody, where we obtained letters from home. The 
 names of the streets through which we passed were very 
 familiar — the Strand, Cheapside, Haymarket, Fleet, Lud- 
 gate Hill, etc. We passed the huge and grand edifice of 
 St.— Paul's" Old St. Paul's "—the theatre of thrilling scenes 
 so intimately associated withthe history oft he city, and many 
 monuments erected to the memory of famous English- 
 men. Our first : ' sight" was, justly, that of the Tower 
 of London ! a relic of the time of Julius Oaesar, if not of 
 some earlier monarch. We saw the water-gates through 
 which Queen Elizabeth was wont to pass on her way 
 to Westminster, the White Tower, Beauchainp Tower, 
 chapel, jewels, etc. Walked round the entire pile, and 
 spent in all some two hours in and about the momentous- 
 ly interesting spot. Laid our throat upon the beheading 
 block, the same (we were told) from which the head of 
 Anne Boleyn fell. Saw the executioner's mask and 
 axe, and some instruments of torture used by the Spanish 
 inquisition. Went into the room or cell where Sir Walter 
 Ealeigh spent thirteen years of his life in close confine- 
 ment, being employed meanwhile upon his history of 
 England. The underground dungeons were closed. In 
 the Beauchamp Tower we spent some time deciphering 
 the inscriptions ; among others were these, " Sic v'n>e vt 
 tieris r " (so live that thou mayst live,) " El morirc ne mo- 
 riericris, (and die that thou mayst die not). The name 
 was T. Salmon, and there was a crest formed of three 
 salmons. The device and mottoes we are not likely to 
 forget. Another, "Hope to the end, and have patience," 
 seemed especially appropriate to the place. " Patience" 
 
DXAET. 61 
 
 was apt to work out " experience" here ; and it seems to 
 have had that effectupon this word sculptor, judging from 
 the weighty and wise sentiments he has elsewhere in* 
 scribed upon the walls of the cell. Many incidents con- 
 nected with these carvings are truly affecting as well as 
 interesting. Many an inscription here would, we think, 
 furnish an excellent text for a sermon ; as the lives of 
 some of the personages whose names are here recorded 
 have yielded the materials for more than one fascinating 
 work of fiction. 
 
 While passing through the White Tower, the warden 
 called our attention to the skillful arrangement of various 
 parts of different weapons which (formed into ingeniously 
 contrived devices) adorned the ceilings of the apartments. 
 One in particular represented the " Passion Flower," He 
 also directed our attention to the •' Harmour of Enry the 
 Haighth," and to the thickness of the walls ; in some 
 portions measuring fourteen feet ! Having stood for a 
 moment in the chapel, and listened to the history attached 
 to it, as narrated by our courteous conductor, we descend- 
 ed to the court, and entered the Jewel House. Here, beside 
 the crown jewels we saw the precious fount from which the 
 water was taken wherewith the Prince of Wales was 
 baptized; his crown; etc. 
 
 Leaving the place, around which so many powerful 
 associations cluster, where kinas once dwelt, and illus- 
 trious men and women were sheltered or murdered, we 
 drove to the Thamesj Tunnel, representations of which 
 had adorned our geographies from our earliest no-nothing 
 days, and excited our infant wonder. And truly it is a 
 wonderful work ! Whatever else may be said about it, 
 one thing is certain, and that is, that although it may go 
 
63 PJARJ. 
 
 tfoicn, it can never burn down. For the amount of on$ 
 penny we were permitted to descend to the region of per- 
 petual night and dampness, and, after walking through 
 its entire length, we ascended to the street on the op- 
 posite side of the river. During our passage forth and 
 back, we were besought to purchase various articles 
 offered for sale by the occupants of the stalls; but the 
 constitution both of the goods and the venders of the 
 same, had become affected by the humidity incident to 
 their location, and neither presented a very attractive ap- 
 pearance. It is a singular place to spend one's days in, 
 descending at sunrise and ascending at sunset. Shut out 
 from all the world, these denizens of the Thames seem 
 not to apprehend that the explosion of the powder maga- 
 zine of some ship might shiver their alabaster cups into a 
 thousand pieces, and destroy not only their business but 
 their lives. It is not probable that the explosion of the 
 boiler of some one of the river steamers over their heads 
 would cause them the slightest discomposure. Fortu- 
 nately, their thoughts do not soar so high ; and the only 
 matter for regret is, that, notwithstanding many of them 
 attain a good old age, these honest, contented, happy 
 people, do not live out half their days. 
 
 August 21th, Sunday.. — This morninir we went to West- 
 minster Abbey, consecrated not only as a place for wor- 
 shiping God, but also as a monument in which to im- 
 mortalize man. Still, it may justly be observed that 
 the works of most of the men to whose memory tab- 
 lets have here been erected, do glorify God, and their 
 authors are, therefore, appropriately remembered within 
 these venerable and sacred walls Cannon Hawkins 
 
mxv,r : ql 
 
 ,(Aukins, We wore informed) preached a good sermon from 
 the text, " Canst thou by searching find out God?" The 
 grand old Abbey seemed an appropriate place in which 
 to argue so great a question — a question which every 
 thoughtful man has, at one time or another, sought to 
 solve, and a vital question in a land where the great re- 
 sponsibility of life is acknowledged, and the Sabbath 
 at least outwardly observed. Whether all could say 
 "Amen !" at the close of the discourse, God only knows. 
 The preacher's answer to the problem was, that " Man 
 did not find God ; but God came to and found out him." 
 • In the afternoon we attended St. Paul's. Owin"; to 
 the respect shown for religion in this city, and to prevent 
 the worshipers from being disturbed, vehicles are obliged 
 to stop at some distance from the entrance, and the occu- 
 pants to walk quietly t6 the door of the porch. Enter- 
 ing, with others, within the vast building, we were in a 
 moment standing beneath its lofty dome, and receiving 
 the impression with which the vast proportions of the 
 architecture of the interior of this magnificent edifice in- 
 spires one. With a feeling of awe we followed ti:oso 
 who had preceded us into one of the chapels, and heard a 
 most beautiful choral service, and a discourse of a profit- 
 able kind. It was late when the service closed, and we 
 had little time to notice the marble monuments, but ex- 
 pect to go again for that purpose very soon. 
 
 August 2Sth. — This morning we went again to West- 
 minster Abbey. Our party was increased by the society 
 of Mrs. H., and together we looked at the monuments, and 
 read the inscriptions, erected to the memory of the princes 
 and poets of Great Britain. Saw tablets erected to tho 
 
6S DUET. 
 
 memory of Shakspeare, Milton, Spenssr, Chaucer, and 
 others too numerous to mention, in the Poet's Comer ; 
 aid in the chapels, including Henry the Seventh's, through 
 which we were afterward shown, the tombs of Elizabeth, 
 her unhappy sister Mary, Charles II., William and Mary, 
 etc. As we reverently trod the sacred aisles, we felt, as 
 Washington Irving, in his most feeling and truthful 
 " sketch" of this famed abbey has so well expressed it, 
 " as if we were disturbing the hallowed silence of the 
 tomb," and that we were " surrounded by the congre- 
 gated bones of the great men of past time, who had 
 filled history with their deeds and the world with their 
 renown." 
 
 Next we visited the magnificent Houses of Parliament. 
 Although at first refused admittance beyond the passages 
 leading to the House of Lords, on the one hand, and of 
 Commons, on the other, we at length, by patience and 
 perseverance, succeeded in obtaining a view of these 
 richly ornamented houses, and also of the picture gallery, 
 robing room, and libraries. After viewing for some time 
 the fine picture of Moses, with the stone tables contain- 
 ing the ten commandments, we drove to the British Mu- 
 seum, and there passed the remainder of the day. Saw a 
 manuscript of one of Shakspeare's plays ; also, hand- 
 writings of Scott, Macaulay, Washington, and others ; 
 many curious and ancient volumes; the Egyptian An- 
 ticpiities ; and so much that was deeply interesting that 
 we were very loth to come away. To most visitors the 
 splendid library is more attractive than the mummies 
 and the lamps of the ancients. We certainly preferred 
 to look upon the stereotyped brains, the most substantial 
 remains of great authors, rather than to inspect the 
 
mas if. $% 
 
 **. heads of collossal dimensions" of the ancient Egyptians. 
 We copied but a single line which accompanied an en-' 
 graving of Shakspeare, and was as follows : 
 
 " This figure that thou herd secst put 
 It was for geutle Shakespeare cut, 
 Wherein the Graverjbad a strife 
 With nature, to out-do the life. 
 O could he but have drawn ae his wit 
 As well in brasse, as he hath hit 
 His face ; The print would tleu turpasi 
 All that was ever writ in brasse ; 
 But since ho cannot, Reader looke 
 Not on his picture, but his Bookc." 
 
 Tuesday, August 29. — Grccuicirh. — Went by boat upon' 
 the Thames to Greenwich, and visited the handsome old 
 hospital, where the veterans of the navy find tr home, after 
 their age and infirmities disqualify them for further active 
 service. A sail through this famous river, in the very 
 midst of the densely populated city, offers one a good view 
 of the tower, the London docks, and other objects of 
 interest. Among others, the ship yard, where the greatest 
 of ships, the Great Eastern, was built. There are innu- 
 merable landings, and the river seemed as greatly crowded 
 with crafts of all descriptions as are the streets with all 
 sorts of vehicles. We were astonished with the rapidity 
 and skill with which these hundreds of little iron steamers 
 were piloted under the arches of the magnificent bridges, 
 and through- narrow passages, seemingly impassable. 
 Steaming over the heads of the living inhabitants of the 
 catacomb-like tunnel, we were soon alongside the 
 " Dreadnaught," and immediately thereafter landed at 
 Greenwich dock, whence we had a fine view of the com- 
 manding pile, which seems to stand as if hewn out of solid 
 rock ; and, as a home for those who have spent their lives 
 
a 
 
 DIARY. 
 
 •Apon the ocean, presents a strong contrast to the ever- 
 restless, turbulent sea, upon which they have spent so' 
 great a portion of their lives. After looking at tho 
 portraits of various commanders, and representations of 
 stirring naval engagements in the Painted Hall, and tho 
 various relics of Nelson and the Franklin Expedition in 
 the Upper Hall, we went into the chapel, where we pjw 
 West's Shipwreck of St. Paul. Passing out upon the 
 broad stone piazza, we saw the blind, the halt and the 
 lame sailors ; some of them stooping from age, walking, 
 sitting and talking ; and heard them testify to the comfort 
 in which they lived. Most of them sat, facing the obser- 
 vatory, from which they had so often recjioped "Longitude 
 west from Greenwich ; " and the Hospftal seems in all res- 
 pects an approp/iat place for them to rest in at last. As we 
 were passing from the hall of one of the buildings, an old 
 sailor approached, having a stic'i in one hand, with which 
 lie seemed to be feeling his way. Mrs. B. asked him if he 
 were blind, ' ; Yes," he said. " But your eyes look bright," 
 she responded. " Yes, Ma'am," lie answered, " too bright," 
 4 'too bright." We went away reflecting on his words, and 
 thinking how applicable they were to the seemingly bright 
 lives of many a weary, world-sick soul. 
 
 August Mth. — Went first to Madam Tussard's Exhibi- 
 tion of Wax Figures, The models were surprisingly 
 natural and life-like. One hi particular, representing an 
 old woman, leaning upon her stick, and viewing the col- 
 lection, we mistook for a being of flesh and blood. Another, 
 an old Quaker gentleman, with the usual broad-brimed hat' 
 upon his head, and placed upon one of the seats, intended 
 for visitors, was so inimitably represented that visitors in* 
 
■ - 
 diary. Ci> 
 
 variably stepped out of the line of his vision. Almost the 
 first figure that met our eye was the manly presence 
 commanding form, and mild, though decisive countenance, 
 of George Washington! It was, indeed, a "speaking 
 likeness/' Groups of the Royal Families, and principal 
 personages of Fiance and England : Luther, Rosseau, 
 Pcnn, Shakspeare; actors, heroes, poets, statesmen, church- 
 men, Kings, Queens Presidents, divines, murderer's, con- 
 Cjucrors, and the great oims of all hinds were wonderfully 
 represented, Now and then it would strike the beholder' 
 that these notabilities were living beings. Lincoln and 
 Davis were represented as talking amicably together, as if 
 attempting to adjust the affairs of the nation ; while, in an 
 adjacent room (especially appropriated to statues of mur- 
 derers) Booth, the assassin of President Lincoln, mi'ght bo 
 seen. Booth's statue had been advertised as one of the 
 greatest recent acr[uis:tions of this class. There were 
 a!so to be seen relics of Wellington and Napoleon, and 
 the costly coronation robes of George IV. 
 
 Nest we went, to the Royal Mews, or stables, where we 
 aw the handsome horses belonging to the Queen, and the 
 state and plain carriages of II, R. II. Queen Victoria. 
 
 Last of all we drove to the National Academy, and re- 
 mained about two hours. Some two or three paintings 
 might justly have occupied the time devoted to the entire 
 collection. A few by the) great masters, some of Rubens' 
 domestic scenes, were the choicest. Turner's productions . 
 occupying one entire gallery, recpuire much study, in order 
 to be appreciated. So, at least, we judged. An evening 
 drive in the Strand and elsewhere, in order to see sorrie- 
 thin!i of "London bv jraslis'ht," finished the "order of 
 
&<j DIARY. 
 
 exercises" for the day, and gave us enough to think and 
 to dream about for more than a day. 
 
 August C0//>. — To Sydenham. — It docs not rain as (we 
 were told it did in this country) all the time. The sun 
 shone brightly and hotly enough on the occasion of our 
 first ride about the city, to give one of our party a hard 
 headache ; and it has shown most of the time, as if to con- 
 tradict the unfavorable impression we had formed, that we 
 should experience nothing but gloomy weather, and Eng- 
 lish dislik to United Statesmen, or as everyone calls our 
 counytrmen here, Americans. Reiving upon the promise 
 of continued dry weathe.i, we took an early start for Syden- 
 ham, in an open carriage. Driving down Victoria Road, 
 through Belgrave Place, etc., we crossed Chelsea Bridge, 
 and passing Battersea Park, were soon in the suburbs of 
 the city. The sun being partially obscured, and the 
 weather not oppresively warm, the ride was a very pleas- 
 ant one, and yielded us the opportunity of seeing some of 
 the beautiful suburban cottage residences. Nearly all of 
 them had names printed on the gate or boundary posts, 
 and many of them were very pretty, as Ivy Lodge, EfTray 
 Lodge, etc. Arrived at the Palace, we drove under the 
 covered portico, and passing the recording gate, entered 
 the wondrous fabric of glass and iron. A mere sight of 
 the light and beautiful structure would have afforded an 
 ample compensation for the journey. It seemed as if 
 it were indeed a castle built in the air ; but one, under 
 neath which a substantial foundation had been placed. 
 The fruit exhibition, which was the special display at this 
 time, was the finest in some respects that ever wo had 
 jooked upon. The grapes were unequalled ; the size and 
 
DIARY. 67 
 
 beauty of the clusters rivalling any we had ever seen 
 before. Passing through the various courts, we found 
 much to admire ; interesting specimens of antique archi- 
 tecture, of different lands and ages, and many beautiful 
 pieces of statuary. Among the latter there was a 
 plaster cast, the subject of which was a warrior's wife, 
 mourning over her husband who had fallen in battle, and 
 embracing the noble animal upon which he had ridden 
 to the fatal field. The intense and hopeless sorrow de- 
 picted in the mourner's face w T as truly affecting. Many 
 other works of art attracted our attention, and are worthy 
 of the praise bestowed upon them. The foreign and 
 tropical plants located in the naves of the palace were 
 curious and beautiful, and the green of the higher trees 
 contrasted with the crystal walls inclosing them, formec] 
 a picture very agreeable to the eye. We also saw the 
 bark of the " Wellingtonia Giganta ;" the California tree, 
 supposed to be 4,000 years old, and it is consequently 
 probably the oldest thing contained within the transparent 
 walls of this elegant edifice. While going the rounds of 
 the galleries we occasionally caught sight of the tastefully 
 arranged terraces, walks, statues, and fountains of the 
 handsome grounds surrounding the Palace ; but, although 
 we spent a number of hours within the glittering structure, 
 we found no time to visit them. During our tour through 
 the arcades, we were reminded of the booths of Baden 
 Baden, so multitudinous was the variety of fancy goods 
 offered for sale within the place. Indeed, we found as 
 much entertainment in gathering souveniers of our visit in 
 those lively little shops, and in the galleries of the. palace, 
 as we had done in viewing many of the lesser attractions 
 of the place. It happened quite accidentally that we 
 
G3 DIARJ- 
 
 visitsd the Crystal Palace on a " shilling day," as it is 
 called ; and consequently the class of people whom we 
 met, were the very class who enter most heartily and 
 simply into the pleasures of the hour. "Who come in the 
 morning and remain until nightfall ; and to whom llie 
 varied enjoyments of the day, inclusive of the grand 
 concert, is a season of " unadulterated happiness." Our 
 own pleasure was increased by the sight of their happy 
 faces, and the interest and intelligence which they dis- 
 played. We left them in the very midst of their enjoyment ; 
 but it was pleasant to think, as we drove away from the 
 exceedingly grand and magnificent palace, that there were 
 hearts within its walls whose joy was as pure and light 
 as the crystal roof above their heads. This evening we 
 have been to a concert at Covent Garden, where we heard 
 Charlotte Patti sing, and some wonderfully fine clarionet 
 music. There were few occupants for first class seats and 
 boxes ; tjie first families being either at their estates or at 
 Brighton or elsewhere ; but there came up a volley of 
 uprorious applause from the parquet, which was crowded 
 to excess, both by occupants of the seats, and those who 
 had procured promenade tickets. There were some four 
 or live different prices of admission. The performance was, 
 upon the whole, a very enjoyable one ; notwithstanding 
 the house was neither " brilliant" nor " fashionable." 
 
 Scjrtcmhcr Is/. — The summer (so far as its name is con- 
 cerned) is over and gone. But there is nothing in this 
 bright and beautiful morning betokening the incoming 
 of the delightful, " sweet, melancholy days" of autumn. 
 Going into the reading-room, before breakfast, to look at 
 the London Times, we had the pleasure of shaking hands 
 
DUST* 69 
 
 &nth Cyras W. Field, who is a guest in this house. He 
 seemed in no wise discouraged at the second failure of 
 the Atlantic telegraph, and said they " had only come 
 back to get a little more ammunition." 
 
 Strolling through the " Bird Cage Walk," we took one 
 of the little steamers from Westminster Bridge to London 
 Bridge Pier, and thus went " down town." We visited 
 the Royal Exchange, Bank of England, Browne, Shipley 
 & Go's., and a number of the shops ; and were finally 
 driven rapidly home in one of the " hansomes." Although 
 we had seen hundreds of these vehicles flying through the 
 city, we had not entered one before, and were highly 
 pleased with our experience of them ; they were navigated 
 through the crowded streets as skillfully and as rapidly as 
 the iron steamers of the Thames arc piloted through the 
 numerous shipping of that river. Notwithstanding the 
 length of the reins, the jehu seemed to have perfect con- 
 trol of the animal. When we had occasion to speak to 
 the driver, a trap-door in the roof formed a convenient 
 medium of communication. We have been struck while 
 riding about the city, with the peculiar effect which the 
 weather and climate produce upon the buildings; making 
 the new ones look like old ones, and the older ones to ap- 
 pear as if built of different kinds of stone ; and giving a 
 look of great antiquity to the edifices 01 the great metropo- 
 lis. So much is there to be seen and cp.iietly enjoyed in 
 London, that some are tempted to think seriously of taking 
 up their permanent abode within sound of the Westminster 
 bells. There is a wonderful combination of art as well as 
 nature within the limits of the city. A drive of a few 
 minutes, or a walk of not immoderate length will conduct 
 one from the bustle of the city into the quiet and rural 
 
70 DIARY. 
 
 seclusion of Hyde Park, or into the midst of the fine coU 
 lection of plants and animals in the Botanical and Zoologi- 
 cal Gardens of Regents Park. Here one may receive 
 much instruction, as well as entertainment. Many parts 
 of London — Trafalgar Square, for instance, presents an 
 appearance of strength and nobleness unequalled by por- 
 tions of any other cities in the world. 
 
 Sunday \ September 3d. — London. — Went this morning to 
 the Scotch Free Church, Crown Court, Covent Garden. 
 While waiting for the pew holders to lake their seats, had the 
 pleasure of meeting with James M. Brown and family. As 
 wc were not allowed to enter until just before the service 
 commeuced, we had the pleasure of inquiring after mutual 
 acquaintances at home. And when at length we were per- 
 mitted to enter the hallowed, though very plain chapel, it 
 was a privilege to worship with those whom we had known 
 in our own homes across the sea ; with them to pray and 
 give thanks unto Him who doeth all things well. We 
 listened to a very simple, thoughtful discourse from Dr. 
 Cummings. He had nothing to say about the " Great 
 Tribulation" this morning. Perhaps he holds not the tame 
 views he once held upon that subject, at the present time. 
 From the very mild manner he exhibited while deliver- 
 ing the very thoughtful discourse, one might imagine that 
 he had himself become a child of the Kingdom, " through 
 much tribulation." Afternoon went to Surry Chapel, 
 where Rowland Hill preached for fifty years ; but we did 
 not hear Dr. Newman Hall, as he was absent from the city. 
 
 Monday, September 4th. — Left London in the noon train 
 for Windsor Castle, the residence of the noble Queen of 
 
UlARY, 71 
 
 England. First of all, on arriving within the enclosure 
 of the grand old palace, we climbed the Keep or Round 
 Tower, whence we obtained a fine view of the beautiful 
 surrounding country. It is said that a view of twelve 
 counties c;in be had from the height. Next, we visited 
 St. Joseph's Chapel, where Edward IV., wlio commenced 
 the building, is buried. Here we saw the exceedingly 
 beautiful and mournful cenotaph erected to the memory 
 of the Princess Charlotte, and a monument of more recent 
 date, placed here by Queen Victoria, in memory of her 
 mother. The sculpture upon the face of it represented 
 the lady's acts of Christian benevolence- — feeding the 
 hungry, clothing the naked, visiting the imprisoned, and 
 ministering to the afflicted. We also paused to notice 
 the new altar piece erected by the Queen to Prince Albert's 
 memory, etc. As the Royal Family were expected to re- 
 turn to Windsor during the day, we were disappointed in 
 not being able to gain access to the state apartments ; but 
 after visiting the Riding House, onjojel a drive in the 
 "Long Walk," two-thirds of the distance to Snow Hill,' 
 upon the crown of which we saw in the distance, the 
 statue of George III. Having time to visit neither Frog- 
 more nor the Virginia Water we drove to Eaton High 
 School or College, and visited its library, and dihing-room, 
 etc. Upon the walls hung portraits of those who were 
 "foundation scholars" within these old w T alls at one time; 
 but who had achieved name or fame in their land, and 
 whom the college now delighted to honor. 
 
 September 7th — London.— Yesterday we made a long 
 and special visit to St. Paul's Cathedral, the greatest 
 building in Great Britain, and in size among the largest in 
 
72 fttoi. 
 
 the world. Wo first examined the fine statues to the 
 heroes of the army and navy, and then visited the whis- 
 pering gallery, library, cloek, and bells; and thence 
 climbed to the ball. Having climbed into the ball for a 
 moment, we descended to the platform surrounding the 
 Golden Gallery, from whence a most extended view of 
 the vast and seemingly limitless city, is obtained — a city 
 containing buildings a thousand years old ! — a city whose 
 power had been felt throughout the world; and yet it 
 was made up of individual men and their works alone. 
 Hundreds of men whose deeds have immortalized them, 
 and some of whose forms, sculptured in marble, surround 
 the inner walls of this wonderful temple, have walked ia 
 the shadow of the cathedral, and are no more ; and still 
 the busy conflict of life goes on, and the interest in things 
 present swallows up the interest in things past, and, in 
 too many instances, the interest in the things to come. 
 The " golden" gallery is indeed a rich spot whence to 
 garner a harvest of thoughts ; but a man must take a 
 comprehensive view with his mind's eye, as well as his 
 natural eye, if lie would preserve his reason, unless (as 
 did the artist who once spent several weeks in the dome 
 While engaged in sketching the wonderful prospect) ho 
 intends to take up his abode in these sky regions. For- 
 tunately we were obliged to descend. To-day we have 
 taken a last look at old London Bridge; a last sail on 
 the Thames; a final drive beside the Serpentine in Hyde 
 Park ; a farewell stroll through Regent Street ; and hav- 
 ing given directions regarding our letters, intend leaving 
 London on the morrow. 
 
 Friday',- September S/A. — By a singular combination of 
 
1UA11Y. 72 
 
 unforeseen circumstances, the weekly return of this day 
 lias almost invariably found us journeying somewhere. 
 Not only did We set sail from our native city on Friday, 
 but on the third Friday we journeyed to Rouen, on the 
 "fourth to Geneva, on the fifth to L'ueern, (and a memora- 
 ble journey it was,) on the seventh from Brussels to Paris, 
 'and of) the eighth from Paris to London ; and this morn- 
 \ve took an early start for -Scotland. Leaving our 
 i-like quarters in the Palace Hotel. 
 about nine *o*clock wc reached the' handsome station of 
 the London and Northwestern Railway in good- -time ; 
 and having taken seats in the " throu»li " carriage for 
 Edinburgh, were soon out of the city, and enjoying some 
 of the beautiful meadow scenery of England. We left 
 London with regret, ; notwithstanding the log, and the 
 "smoke, and the mud, of which Frenchmen visiting the 
 vmun : y -complain so bitterly (and we know that some 
 frenchmen think as much of their polished boots as we 
 do of their polished maimers). We have not been in any 
 wise inconvenienced by either' of those- elements. The 
 •earth has been dry, the air line, the (ire (smoke) has re- 
 mained in its appropriate regions, and the water '(raiTi) 
 has not in a single instance, during our stay in the city, 
 •descended upon cur heads. Upon the early morning 
 one day only was there any. log.- Whatever may be 
 the -predominating /climate of the land, we believe the 
 moral atmosphere is constantly improving ; that there is 
 enough of the leaven of goodness and the principle of 
 growth, physical; intellectual, and religious, to preserve 
 it from destruction ; and not only to preserve it, but to 
 promote the increase of the powerful influences which 
 iro forth from this sj-reat centre into all the world. liny- 
 
\ t 01. \i; 
 
 laud and- America — that is, the true and noble men and! 
 women in both countries — are pledged to the same work i 
 U) uphold and extend the same privileges and blessings' 
 into and throughout all the regions of the world. "Would 
 to God thai there were more such women as Queen Vic- 
 toria, and such mini as our immortal Washington, in these 
 present days, and every land were blessed with the life 
 and labors of a St. Paul. 
 
 We had none but pleasant, reco41ectk>tts of our visit as we 
 journeyed northward. At twelve, we arrived at far-famed 
 Rugby, where " Tom Brown" spent his happy school 
 daws. At Preston, which town we reached about half- 
 past three, we lunched, and about six arrived at Carlisle.- 
 Soon after leaving the latter place, we crossed the little 
 j-iver, and were in Scotland. The sun, which had shown 
 upon us every day since our arrival, in Great Britain, (a re- 
 markable fact, if the stories of previous travellers are to be 
 credited.) illuminated the fields, and made the water of the 
 streams to sparkle during most of the way : and we had dust 
 in abundance. It w:.s between nine and ten o'clock when 
 our long day's journey came to an { i n:\. Tired and hun- 
 gry, we sought the Royal Hotel, but eould gain no admit- 
 tance, and were recommended to the tender mercies of a 
 Frenchman named Dejay, the keeper of the Hotel Fran- 
 cais, where we found English comfort and French fare ; 
 and alter recruiting on poulct. and cognac, wooed " tired 
 nature's sweet restorer/' 
 
 September dth. — Ktlinburgli. — -As we sit at out window 
 to write the record of this day, there looms up before us 
 the wonderful old Castle of Edinburgh, built upon the 
 i'ocks. Never, should our lives be spared, (''e'en down to 
 
diary; 75 
 
 <>'<! age") shall we forget our visit to this ancient castle 
 and fortress, within the walls of which we have this 
 -day spent several hours. Th ity ; the sur- 
 
 rounding country ; — including the Salisbury Crags and 
 Peutland Hills — together with the Frith of Forth ; — ;:., 
 seen from the plateau, upon which stands Elizabeth's little 
 chapel, (also discemable from the windows of Dejay's,) is 
 altogether one of the most impressive we have yet seen. 
 We could have passed days upon the battlements, view- 
 ing the wide and fascinating landscape. It stirred up the 
 depths of our minds, and revived tender associations of 
 years gone by. There is a mysterious sympathy between 
 the body and the mind — -between bodily heights and men- 
 tal heights. The little chapel, Queen Mary's crown, 
 sceptre, and sword of stale, as well as her private apart- 
 ments in the tower, were all visited. Reluctantly we 
 left the castle, ami drove to the interesting palace of 
 Hollyrood, where we were shown the identical bed in 
 which the unfortunate Queen of Scots once slept, the 
 room in which Rizzio was murdered, the blood stain upon 
 the floor, the picture gallery, and so forth. We trod 
 reverently the pavement of the crumbling abbey, and lost 
 the opportunity of being immortalized in connection there- 
 with by not remaining within the sacred enclosure while 
 an artist took a photographic view of the ruins. Strange 
 things happen in these latter days, when people can sit 
 quietly in their parlors at home, and vet sec the moun- 
 tains, and castles, and old abbeys of far-distant lands ; 
 and there is something singular in the thought that these 
 haunt; of history are being represented upon pictured 
 cards, to be transmitted to all parts of the world, by an 
 art which was (when these old castles stood in all their 
 
1G> MARY- 
 
 glory) undiscovered and undreamed of! I ji the very 
 room i;i whjeh stood the veritable bed upon which Queer* 
 Mary reposed, we bought can! photographs representing! 
 
 that room and its contents, perfcctl)*, even to the tapis try 
 hangings upon the waji, and J.ho hale in the door opening; 
 into the sot-ret passage — by means of which Darnlcv and 
 his confederates succeeded in effecting an entrance into* 
 the s'upping-room adjoining^ and enacting tin 1 fearful 
 tragedy in the very presence of the Queen. And so ii 
 was, go where we might, an opportunity .was afforded us. 
 of carrying away not only an image of the h*teresting ob- 
 jects in tiio mind's eye, bul accurate representations of 
 those objects upon which others as well as ourselves 
 might look, and from the view receive pleasure and in- 
 struction. 
 
 Leaving the sleepily interesting edifice of Ilolyrood, wo. 
 enjoyed greatly a ride in the Queen's Drive, almost en-, 
 tirely surrounding the Salisbury Crags, from whence we 
 obtained new, beautiful, and extensive views of the neinh-. 
 boring country. In the course ofjour ride, as \jje passed..: 
 St. Anthony/s .Well, ' children .came running; after, t-hc: 
 carriage, and offering us gjasses of water from that crystal: 
 spring, or pebbles .from its stony., bottom. Further on 
 we came in sight of the cottage (or the place. where the 
 cottage once stood) in which the heroic -Jennie Deans: 
 (nice abode, and from which she set forth, in God's 
 strength, upon her long and perilous journey of love and. 
 mercy. It was very pleasant riding thus amid the classic- 
 localities of " Mid-Lothian," which the Scott of Scotland 
 — and of all the world thus far — lias rendered famous. 
 The hour was toward sunset, and the shadows were 
 Cruet henimx all about us, while the emerald green of 
 
DIARY". 77 
 
 Arthur's scat was bathed in light. Thrre was indeed 
 much enjoyment afforded us in that ride of one short 
 hour. We. would have prolonged it indefinitely had it 
 teen possible. 
 
 Sundmj, Sqitcmhn- 10vA, Edinburgh. — This is a great 
 city in which to hear sermons. Preaching is not con- 
 fined to the churches, which are numerous ; but it' one is. 
 not too tired to stand, lie may listen to extemporaneous. 
 discourses deliycred at the corners of the streets with un- 
 surpassed earnestness and solemnity. The Sabbath f|ues- 
 tion is much agitated, and the running of Sunday trains 
 uncompromisingly condemned. All the inhabitants of 
 the city appear to he church-goers, and happiness, con-, 
 tent and health appear in the faces, of those whom we 
 meet in the street. We have ourselves heard two very 
 excellent and orthodox discourses. The first, preached by 
 Dr. Alexander, of the Independent Church, was afair sample 
 of the style of that eloquent divine. The text chosen 
 was the sixth verse of the sixth chapter of Ephesians, 
 ' As the servants of Christ, doing the will of God from 
 the heart." " Words," said the speaker, " orginally ad- 
 dressed to the slave," but which might be construed in, 
 a broader sense to apply to all God's children upon earth. 
 We might view God's afflictive providences submissively, 
 and this was well ; but the perfect and highest attainment 
 was to view them as manifestations of God's character, 
 as not not only good, but the best. An earthly sovereign 
 might give laws not in accordance with his real character;, 
 but the providences of God were not only discoveries of 
 Himself, but a very part of Himself. We should believe 
 that God wills what befalls nz, and that therefore it is 
 bent.' 1 Such were some of the comforting and assuring 
 
7S DIARY. 
 
 words which fell upon our cars, and were treasured up 
 in our hearts ; and although the manner of the preacher 
 was cold, we could not but believe that his sympathy 3 
 were warm. 
 
 Afternoon, went to St. John's Episcopal chapel. As 
 the service had commenced, the doors were' not only 
 closed, but locked ; and we were about to leave, when 
 the sexton opened a very small door on the east side of 
 the church, and we were invited to enter. The edifice, 
 within and without, w&.s a handsome one; and although 
 the dimness of the religious light, and the height of the 
 pew enclosures, made it difficult to see either preacher or 
 people, it did not prevent — nay, it aided — our enjoyment 
 of the beautiful and not unprofitable discourse upon the 
 scripture promise, " Thy peace shall flow like a river.'' 
 The preacher spoke of looking from nature up to nature's 
 God. He dwelt particularly upon the illustration in the 
 text ; spoke of the purity of the stream compared with 
 the men who dwelt upon its banks, and whose strifes 
 and passions caused so much misery. The beginning of 
 the river, like the budding of grace in the soul, was 
 sometimes almost imperceptible. But it grew broader 
 and deeper as it advanced, until, at last, like time, it 
 reached the ocean of eternity. What could man do with- 
 out the river of life '! What if men were not prepared 
 to enter upon the ocean of eternity ! 
 
 Moiii/ait, September lUh. — Edbilurgh. — Our visit to the 
 celebrated University of Edinbro', this morning, was 
 one of more than ordinary interest, from the fact, that 
 some whom we had known had been educated within its 
 Avails. Here more than one great man had in his vouth 
 
bixilY. ', V 
 
 garnered rich si ores of the very highest classic and scientific 
 knowledge, and the erudition, both of those who have been 
 students, as well as those who have been and are profes- 
 sors in this college, has caused it to be celebrated as one 
 of the first and highest institutions of learning in the workL 
 We were shown into the spacious library, the floor of 
 which was carpeted, and the room wore a delightful air 
 of comfort and seclusion. It seemed a fit storehouse for 
 ihe works of those writers whose thoughts have, to a great 
 extent, " ruled the world," and an appropriate and pleas- 
 ant place in which to study the productions of those master- 1 
 minds* In short, it was just such a place as a study should 
 be. The museum was undergoing alterations, and a cloud 
 of lime-dust prevented us from extending our observations 
 in this direction. After visiting the Royal College of 
 Surgery, where we found much to excite our interest and 
 curiosity, as well as our wonder and admiration, and 
 enough to occupy more time than we had at our com- 
 mand, we drove through Kicolson Square, and George's 
 Hquare, (on the west side of the latter, once stood the 
 house of Walter Scott's father,) and arrived in due time at 
 Hariot's Hospital, a most noble institution, for promoting 
 the education of the sons of reduced citizens, and which 
 has for more than two centuries been in successful opera- 
 tion. Passing through the chapel, dormitories, assembly 
 room, and so forth, we learned much regarding the studies, 
 character and manner of life of those who had been and 
 were the privileged inmates of this school, and saw a 
 likeness of George Hariot, the distinguished founder ; and 
 also portraits of some of those who had made themselves 
 names in the world, since leaving this, their early home. 
 In passing through the court, we noticed that many of the 
 
small, square stones with which iris paved wore numtae.oiU 
 and upon inquiring into the cause, were told, that each buy, 
 upon his first enrolment as a member of the school, re- 
 ceived a number by which lie was afterward d ssignated 
 and that whenever the school was i er — pre*- 
 
 vioasly to marching td chapel Or — eh pupil 
 
 was required to stand upon the particular pavement I 
 ing his number. By this simple (contrivance, i1 is said, 
 much confusion is avoided and better discipline secured. 
 The vacation had just expired, and we saw soriie of the 
 well-dressed smaller boys drawn up in line ju£t as we were 
 leaving the grounds. 
 
 Next, we visited the Botanical Gardens. After enjoy 1, 
 ing a ramble through the greater portion of the fine 
 grounds, and viewing* the choice and curious plants with 
 which they are enriched, we visited the extensive green- 
 houses. While within these glass? structures, 1 vve climbed 
 the spiral staircase leading to the galleries in the upper 
 portion of the building; but found ourselves not only 
 amongst the tops of the tropical palms, but in the midst: 
 of a tropical heat so intense, that the perspiration poured 
 from every pore of our bodies, as if we were undergoing ;t 
 Russian vapor bath. Leaving the garden, we changed 
 our position, and stood upon Carlton Hill, Whence a good 
 view of the city is obtained, and upon which stand Nel- 
 son'?, the unfinished National, and Playfair's monuments, 
 and also the Observatory. Alter some time spent in en- 
 joying the varied and fine prospect, we descended the 
 steps fronting the debtor's prison, and driving to the 
 National Gallery, visited its collection. Wc closed this 
 well-spent day (during the course of which wc have, per- 
 haps, seen more than in any one day since we landed upon 
 
DIARY. SI 
 
 the shores of the old world,) by a visit to GreyfriarS, the 
 scene of the sufferings of so many holy men, who died 
 martyrs to the faith : Who died like their Saviour, that 
 others might live through their triumphant testimony. 
 
 September 12///. — Occupied the day in journeying to the 
 little village of L., in Fifeshire. We had a somewhat 
 misty sail across the Firth of Forth, in the steamer 
 " Forth," and reached our destination about noon. Here, 
 though not far distant from Edinburgh, we were in the midst 
 of the quiet and seclusion of the country, and, much to 
 our satisfaction, learned something of the peasant life of 
 the Scottish people. Entering one of the houses of the 
 cotters, we were particularly struck with the neatness 
 and comfort of their abodes ; and the books upon the 
 shelves betokened their appreciation of the advantages of 
 an educated mind. Some of them, though humble, and 
 contented with their sphere of life, are yet acquainted 
 with other than their native tongue ; and even the young 
 women, in one or two instances, were cood Latin and 
 French scholars. Through the influence of Christianity 
 alone have the common people of Scotland become even 
 more elevated and refined than the same classes in Eng- 
 land ; and far more so than the peasantry of any other 
 European country. Religion leads them to respect and 
 cultivate themselves, and raises them in the social scale ; 
 and what else could or would accomplish this end ? 
 Would that those who possess greater privileges and 
 knowledge of the world had more of the power of religion 
 in them — that we had, during the past years of our lives, 
 114 clone, instead of doubted — warred, instead of wept." 
 
 There is, perhaps, something more impressive in a jour- 
 
 n 
 
di a ur. 
 
 ney into the quiet, solitary, rural districts of a foreigti 
 land than there is in a visit to its great cities; inasmuch 
 as there is more change in the latter. But when one 
 contemplates the hills and valleys across which generation 
 after generation have wandered, or the village green upon 
 which the children of each succeeding generation, for a 
 thousand years, have sported, and which have always 
 been the same, he begins to experience a feeling of awe 
 weighing down his spirits, making it impossible for him 
 to give utterance to the thoughts that fill his mind. 
 
 September V3th — Edinburgh. — The experience of every 
 hour in this grand and delightful city is so fraught with 
 interest and pleasure, that each day deserves a separate 
 record. About twelve, went into the Antiquarian Museum 
 of Scotland, and spent more than an hour in examining 
 the various relics of past ages therein collected. Some of 
 them were Grecian, some Egyptian, and others Indian; 
 but the more part, and the most interesting portion, con- 
 sisted of sculptured stones and coins, which had been dug 
 from the very soil of Scotland ; proving its great age as 
 an inhabited and civilized country. Afterward we drove 
 to Leith, and walked to the end of one of the very long 
 piers, extending almost a mile into the water. Although 
 it is only the middle of September, the wind was blowing 
 with such force from the west as to make the undertaking 
 well nigh dangerous and difficult of accomplishment. Re- 
 turning to the city, we visited the house in which John 
 Knox lived, and from a window of which he delivered 
 his sermons. We sat in his study chair, read a psalm in 
 his Bible, and passed through, one after another, the de- 
 serted rooms. Being the only visitors, we had a good 
 
DIARY. S3 
 
 opportunity to inspect at leisure aught that attracted 
 our attention. But it is not always pleasant to visit even 
 the haunts of those who have long been dead, when the 
 noise of one's own footsteps in the deserted chambers is 
 the only sound that is heard. 
 
 Srptember 14th — Edinburgh. — Driving to the Scott 
 monument this morning, B. and myself ascended to the 
 tup of this magnificent structure, and enjoyed the fine 
 prospect for about half an hour. This splendid testimonial 
 is worthy the city and the man. Its history is most in- 
 teresting ; and the only sad circumstance connected 
 therewith is, that the talented architect was drowned be- 
 fore the edifice was finished. Having from this height 
 viewed, for the last time, the scenes of the birth-place of 
 those events of which all the world has heard, (and will 
 continue to hear,) through the genius and labors of the 
 man to whose enduring memory this monument has been 
 erected, we drove to Roslyn Castle and Chapel, distant 
 six miles from Edinburgh The excursion occupied the 
 remainder of the day, but well repays one for the time 
 and strength expended in making it. The chapel is a 
 most beautiful and interesting specimen of architecture, 
 equaling in those respects, though small as to size, any that 
 we have seen during our travels, and is many hundred years 
 old. It is indeed a rare gem, and we spent a long time in 
 studying and admiring its special beauties, sculptures, and 
 inscriptions. The story of the wreathed pillar, and of the 
 founder, and the noble hound who saved his master's life, 
 interested the visitors much. The guide also explained 
 at length the meaning of various portions of the adorn- 
 ments of the chapel. The ruins of the castle situated in 
 
Si DIARY. 
 
 the midst of most enchanting scenery, were next inspected, 
 and afforded ns an example of the strength, gloominess, 
 and, to a certain extent, wicrdncss of the castles of the olden 
 time. On our way back to the carriage- — alter a walk 
 through a part of what was, at one time, a portion of the 
 magnificent terraced gardens of the palace — we stepped 
 for a few moments into an old burying-ground not far- 
 distant. We found, among others, one old tombstone, 
 containing the following quaint lines : 
 
 " Underneath this sod doth lie 
 As much virtue as could die, 
 Which when alive did vigor give 
 To as much virtue as could live." 
 
 We left the spot about three, and returned to the hotel 
 in good time, much delighted with the day's experience, 
 and with appetites that did ample justice to the turtle 
 soup, and all the other good things which had been care- 
 fully prepared with special reference to our farewell 
 dinner in " Old Keekie." 
 
 Friday, Scjrtcmbcr 1 5th — Edinb i/rg-h — Glasgow. — The 
 fated day (Friday) having arrived, we propose journeying 
 to Glasgow this afternoon, and this morning have been to 
 see the handsome Eegister Office, and St. Giles' old 
 church, at the latter place Knox preached, James IV. made 
 a farewell address to his subjects, and a certain Dean's head 
 came into contact with a vulgar stool. The old 
 women who were engaged in cleaning the different chap- 
 els were at first apparently much annoyed at our in- 
 trusion ; but after a time became very communicative, 
 and at length we were obliged to tear ourselves away 
 from their highly interesting societv before the half had, 
 
DIARY. S5 
 
 been told us. Although their appearance was not pre- 
 possessing,, their conversation evinced that they were by 
 no means ignorant of the historical associations connected 
 with the floors which they scrubbed. One story in par- 
 ticular engaged our attention. It was in relation to the 
 old custom of bringing condemned criminals to church 
 (and to this venerable edifice in particular) upon the 
 Sabbath previous to their execution ; and the manner in 
 which, upon a certain occasion, one of two miserable 
 men brought hither enabled the second and vounsrer to 
 escape, not only from the custody of the soldiers, but from 
 death — he himself, the deliverer, losing his own chance of 
 escape that the other might live. Leaving this interesting- 
 place, we went to the Gallery of Statuary, containing, it 
 is said, one of the finest collections of plaster casts in the 
 United Kingdom, and including, among others, the Apollo 
 Belvidere and Dying Gladiator. 
 
 Evening. — Arrived in Glasgow per the Edinburgh, and 
 Glasgow R. R., about four o'clock. Not knowing that 
 the Queen's Hotel was just thirty steps from the sta- 
 tion, we waited some moments, in order to secure a con- 
 veyance, and were at considerable labor to bestow ourselves 
 within and our effects upon the top of the carriage, and had 
 only just established ourselves comfortably for the ride, when,, 
 to our amusement, the coachman having turned the corner, 
 informed us that our journey was ended. After a quiet, 
 pleasant dinner in our rooms at six o'clock, we went to 
 Argyle street — the Broadway of Glasgow — to walk, and 
 strolled up and down for about an hour, looking in occa- 
 sionally at a shop window, and doing a little shopping. 
 Our first impressions of Glasgow are, that though a great, 
 
86 DIARY. 
 
 and a busy metropolis, it is still a somewhat dull city. 
 Full of churches, and containing many bad characters. 
 But this latter characteristic is perhaps not to be won- 
 dered at, considering the vastness of its manufactures, 
 and the great number of those employed therein. 
 
 Saturday, September 10///. — Went this morning to visit 
 the Cathedral, once and for a long time the place of Roman 
 ( latholic worship, but now called the High Church, and no 
 longer filled with the incense of superstition, or the mum- 
 meries of the priests. Although not comparing in grandeur 
 with many others which we have seen, the edifice abounds 
 in legendary and historical associations. The traditions 
 concerning St. Mungo, the reputed founder, appear too 
 wonderful and contradictory to be true, especially the 
 miracles he is said to have wrought. "It is affirmed, that 
 after he came to years of understanding, he did never eat 
 flesh, nor taste wine or any strong drink ; and when he 
 went to rest, slept on the cold ground, having a stone for 
 his pillow ; and that, notwithstanding he lived thus hardly, 
 he did attain to the age of nincscore (!) and five years." 
 But although the age of the founder may well be dis- 
 credited, there can be no doubt as to the antiquity of the 
 church itself; and it was a singular fact, that some of the 
 stone found upon the ground, which had become embedded 
 in the soil with which the building was repaired some 
 years since, bore marks, proving it to be a portion of some 
 earlier temple of worship which had been erected on the 
 same spot. Scott, in " Rob Roy," does well to call it "A 
 brav3 kirk ; a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will 
 stand as lang as the world, — keep hands and gunpowther 
 aflfit." But had it not been for the Government mandate, 
 
DIAU\. s? 
 
 .'it the time of the Reformation, the frenzied people would, 
 in their endeavours to " purge it of all kynd of monuments 
 of idolatrye," and make it " a mair Christian-like kirk," 
 have destroyed it altogether. The mandate was as follows : 
 "Fail not, bot ze take guid heyd that neither the dasks, 
 windocks, ner durris be ony ways hurt or broken, either glassin 
 work or iron work." The structure was subsequently 
 arranged to accommodate three distinct congregations. 
 The oak pulpit in the inner high is many times older 
 than the oldest preacher that ever occupied it j being, 
 it is supposed, 700 years old. Passing through the 
 beautiful Lady Chapel, we next descended to the Crypts, 
 originally intended as the burying place for the priests ; 
 but subsequently used as a place of worship. The " dim, 
 religious light" was very dim indeed ; and it is to be 
 hoped that the spiritual illumination which came to those 
 who here, in very truth, " sat in darkness and in the 
 shadow of death" exceeded the material light by which 
 they were surrounded. Having previously examined the 
 handsome painted windows, the subjects of which are 
 almost wholly scriptural, and the number of which is 
 very great — furnishing, as it were, a lithographed Bible, 
 which all may read and understand — we bestowed a few 
 moments upon the various monuments and inscriptions. 
 Many famous men have walked these floors. Bruce and 
 Cromwell have been within its walls ; but no creature 
 of royal blood who has ever visited the Cathedral is more 
 worthy of fame and admiration than Queen Victoria, who, 
 some fifteen years ago, came hither for the purpose of view- 
 ing its beauties. Before getting into the carriage we 
 visited the church-yard, where the slabs are arranged in 
 rows upon the surface of the ground, and so closely 
 
SS DIARY. 
 
 that almosl every foot of the enclosure, save the fev^ 
 narrow paths intersecting the tombstones, is covered. 
 It solemnizes one's mind, this peculiar arrangement, 
 but does not strike one at all pleasantly. It seems 
 as though these heavy weights had been placed w^av. 
 the breasts of those who were asleep in death to prevent 
 them from coming forth out of their graves. No 
 " living green" is seen, for there is no room for it to 
 grow ; and all seems as cold and stony as death itself. 
 Next we went to the College of Glasgow, bearing 
 the date "Anno Dom. ]6-54,"' upon its exterior. This 
 old building, together with the Cathedral, are the most 
 interesting specimens of the antiquated architecture of 
 the city. Driving to the Green, and from thence along 
 the river side to Glasgow Bridge, and beyond, we re- 
 turned by the way of West End Park, where the new 
 and handsome residences of the wealthier portion of the 
 community arc located, and the new free church Coll cue 
 stands. We saw the spot whereon the old University 
 is to be newly located, on the opposite side of the Kel- 
 vin, and many of the principal streets of the city. Eve- 
 ning, walked in Argyle and other streets. The whole 
 city — that is, the humbler classes — seemed to be out of 
 doors, and by far the greater portion of them appeared 
 to be quite young. No doubt they belong to the number 
 of those who are daily confined to hard work in the 
 numerous manufactories of the city, and whose whole 
 life is one long continued struggle for existence. 
 
 Sunday, September 17 th — Glasgow. — About ten, we 
 ascended the " Bell of the Brae," as the higher part of 
 High Street is called, to hear Rev. Dr. Norman Macleod j 
 
DIARY, £9 
 
 Ibot were disappointed in not hearing him. However, 
 
 we listened to an excellent discourse from the nephew of 
 
 the illustrious clergyman ; and although hewas quite a 
 
 we thought the Doctor could not have had a 
 
 t time, we noticed the 
 
 prior to each 
 
 ;. '. filled, and 
 
 the ■ 
 
 hole, 
 at 5 P. M., by ] in our c. . 
 
 usual, in ord 
 
 3d to attend church — another proof of i 
 keeping character of the Scottish people.) we went into a 
 neighboring place of w ' ' . \ :e we heard a very 
 earnest, stirring, impressive sermon, from I : "And 
 as he reasoned • eousness, tern . and judge- 
 
 ment to come, Felix trembled, and said, when I have a. 
 convenient season I will call . -.'' Seldom^ if ever, 
 
 f e we listened to a preacher with more attention, and 
 such a sermon it would perhaps be impossible for one to 
 hear out of Scotland. The speal Med his discourse 
 
 into three heads : 1st, the model preacher, Paul ; 2d, the 
 convicted hearer; and 3d, the dangerous procrastination. 
 Paul, he said, spoke with great fearlessness and boldness 
 to Felix, who was a cruel, licentious, w man; re- 
 
 buking his vices; preaching to him light government, 
 temperance, and judgment to come; and Felix so far 
 forgot himself and his Ion — he was so moved by the 
 
 the Spirit of God— -that he frcmblal. (Had any present 
 trembled ?) Put he gathered up his skirts and passed 
 out of the room, sealing his destiny by his choice and his 
 
 12 
 
90 DIARY: 
 
 fatal delay. Would any before him defer that day ? The 
 preacher spoke as one who felt that much depended upon 
 his preaching — upon the words he uttered at the mo- 
 ment — and so warm were his appeals to those present 
 that it seemed strange to see the people quietly sitting in 
 their seats. To one unaccustomed to such an impassioned 
 style, it would seem as though the very walls must cry 
 out, 
 
 Monday, September 18th — The Clyde. — Left in the 
 eleven o'clock boat, starting from Glasgow Bridge, and 
 sailed down the Clyde as far as Greenock. Saw the 
 large ship-building yards, where the wonderful vessels of 
 the Cunard and other lines (by means of which thousands 
 annually cross the ocean) are constructed. Passed Dum- 
 barton Rock, famed in history as the place of the confine- 
 ment of Wallace, and as the foundation of the castle 
 which was taken by Crawford in so bold and remarkable 
 a manner. We looked upon it with great interest before 
 reaching it, and long after we had passed it, remembering 
 the while the admiration and fascination with which, 
 during the years of boyhood, the reading of the " Scottish 
 Chiefs" had inspired us for the character of Wallace. 
 Some of the views were charming ; and the sky being 
 overcast, the sail was very enjoyable. But one incident 
 occurred which was not in all respects pleasurable. 
 When about half way between the G's, (Glasgow and 
 Greenock,) not the boat, but a passenger upon the boat, 
 took fire. The conflagration was caused by a spark from 
 the smoke-stack of the steamer, and in a few moments 
 Bmoke was seen to issue from the folds of a rich and becom- 
 ing silk basque upon the person of Madame •. As- 
 
DIARY. 91 
 
 eistance was immediately rendered, but not until the 
 flames had extended ; and so far as the appearance of the 
 article was concerned, it was totally destroyed. Fortu- 
 nately the lady sustained no irreparable loss — her in- 
 surance being ample — and she took no other notice of the 
 occurrance than to change her seat, lest, should another 
 firy shower descend upon the deck, her person as well as 
 her wardrobe might be consumed. 
 
 Arrived at the seaport of Greenock, we walked up into 
 the town ; and after refreshing ourselves at a place where 
 there were so many eatables of a palatable description that 
 we did not know which to choose, we employed a driver 
 and carriage, in order to see all that was worth seeing. 
 These objects were not a few, besides the beautiful 
 drive by the Firth, and a fine view of the entire town, 
 river and mountains from the Whin-hill, Returned by 
 rail to Glasgow about five o'clock. 
 
 TVedncsday, September 20th. — Ayr. — Yesterday we pass- 
 ed a quiet day; and having seen our friends off for Ayr- 
 shire, (they have gone in search of a portion of their past 
 lives,) we went into the Royal Exchange to read the 
 London Times of yesterday, and a file of the New York 
 Times for the past month. During all our travels we 
 have not seen a finer edifice consecrated to the divinity 
 " News." The latest intelligence from all parts of the uni- 
 verse is posted upon bulletins at the upper end of the hand- 
 some hall as soon as received, and one need not be at 
 the trifling labor of looking for it in the papers, although 
 many duplicate copies of all the most important sheets in 
 the world, including " The New York World," abound 
 u The stranger, as well as he that is born in the land," 
 
92 Disitr. 
 
 has the privilege of frequenting this truly Royal Exchange 
 at will. Sauntering through the beautiful Argyle Arcade, 
 one is much interested in noticing the beauty and great 
 variety of !an Tartan, (Scotchwood,) articles exposed 
 
 for sale. Besides the hundred and one specimens of these 
 goods which have ah ' en carried across the water, 
 
 and which we had soon at home, we found many new and 
 choice paterns of exquisite workmanship. We were told 
 that the inventor had accumulated a large fortune, and 
 that most Of the articles were still printed at one par*, 
 tieula 
 
 This morning left Glasgow in the half-past ten train ? 
 reached Ayre about half-past twelve o'clock. The rid, ,3 
 along the coast was very pleasant, and some of the views 
 were charming. Arrived at the pretty gothie railway 
 station, we paused a moment to admire its very orna- 
 mental architecture, and then passed up the principal 
 street in search of the " King's Arms Hotel." A single 
 direction from one of the " honest men" was sufficient, 
 and we reached its sheltering arms just in time to be pro- 
 tected from the descending rain. Taking possession of 
 the sitting-room, which was fortunately a front one, and 
 on a level with the street, we found entertainment in 
 reading the " Scotsman" (advertisements and all) and one 
 of Sir Walter Scott's novels, and in looking at the out- 
 side world. At times it rained hard ; but the bonnetless 
 and "bonny lasses" who passed the widow seemed as 
 much accustomed to water as they were to Ayr, and, 
 by their very laughter, shook the rain from off their nut- 
 brown cheeks and tresses. The town is more than usu- 
 ally livelv, in anticipation of to-morrow's races, and the 
 annual county ball of Ayrshire, which it is anticipated; 
 
DIAKY. 9S 
 
 will bring to the town greater numbers than are at present 
 gathered here. Booths have been erected in some of the 
 principal streets, and the people are rejoicing in prospect 
 of the temporary excitement. About five, went to meet 
 the friends who had preceded us, and conducted them to 
 the hospitable King's Arms, where we soon after dined. 
 The " King," we were informed, could entertain us but 
 one night, as the apartments assigned us had been en- 
 gaged for some time past by those who intend to thread 
 the mazes of the dance to-morrow night. But we were 
 well content, as we had no intention of remaining to wit- 
 ness the Ayr ball, and we certainly did not care for the 
 foot ball part of it. Evening, went out to visit the " Twa 
 Brigs." We crossed the auld one, and recrossed the Ayr 
 River by the new. The only " dialogue " we heard was 
 carried on by ourselves, in reference to the structures 
 but no doubt, had we remained long enough, the Brigs 
 might have told us many a tale of by-gone years — in 
 imagination, at least. 
 
 September 2lst — Ayr. — T »Ye drove this morning first to 
 the cottage in which Burns was born ; and after walking 
 through it, and inspecting the likeness with which the 
 inner hall is adorned, purchased a view of the building 
 itself, and next visited Alloway Kirk, where Tam O'Shan- 
 ter saw the witches dance. Thirdly, we visited the 
 Burns Monument — a fine commemorative work. Its site 
 is well chosen, and the view from the top is a very lovely 
 as well as grand, embracing ocean, mountain, plain, as 
 well as the romantic grounds surrounding the monument 
 itself, together with the birth-place of the poet, the Old 
 Kirk, and Brig O'Doon. In the lower portion of the edi- 
 
94 DIARY. 
 
 fice, within the small square room, we saw some memen- 
 toes of Burns, and of his Highland Mary. After saunter- 
 ing through the grounds, comparing our watches with 
 the sun dial, and remembering our guide, (in considera- 
 tion of which he allowed us to pluck a bit of mistletoe as 
 a souvenir of our visit,) we got into the carriage, and after 
 riding a short distance, got out again, and walked over 
 the bridge spanning the Doon. Here we listened to the 
 de-tailed account of Tam O'Shanter's passage of the Brig, 
 and of his narrow escape from the witches. Driving 
 thence to the little inn, we went for a moment into the 
 small shell grotto, an ingeniously arranged little' cabin on 
 the banks of the Doon, and after looking upon the humorous 
 statues of auld Tam O'IShanter and Souter Johnny, his 
 boon companion, we took our glass of ale, and departed. 
 
 Afterward drove to the race course, and attended the 
 Western Meeting, where, taking our place in the line, 
 we passed the remainder of the day. Saw some of the 
 fashionables of Scotland, who came in their handsome 
 elevated equipages, and, with few exceptions, remained 
 throughout the day. The last race took place about 
 five ; after which we repaired to the King's Arms, and 
 dined, returning to Glasgow by the seven o'-clock train. 
 
 Tuesday, Scj)tc7nbcr 2Gth — Liverpool. — Adelphi Hotel. 
 This is to be our headquarters until we leave the shores 
 of the Old World. We have been in this commercial 
 emporium only a few days, but like it much. It resem- 
 bles New York in many things : in its crowd of ship- 
 ping ; its street cries ; general business life, and bustle. 
 Our lodgings are particularly pleasant, and the quiet, 
 comfortable life we live within our rooms is in striking 
 
hUkt. £g 
 
 contrast to the tumult going on without. Twice every day 
 our table is noiselessly and temptingly spread with luscious 
 food, and everything is done so quietly that it seems 
 sometimes as if we were enjoying the luxury of a home 
 in a foreign land. So well pleased are we with the 
 appointments of the house, that we are not sorry that 
 it was impossible to procure rooms in the " Queen's. On 
 Sunday the hush throughout the city was universal, and 
 we attended St. George Place chapel, where Dr. Raffles 
 preached for so many years. To-day we have driven past 
 most of the principal buildings, and visited the St. James 
 and Necropolis burying grounds. The former is most 
 singularly located, below the level of the surrounding 
 streets and houses ; and although in the very midst of 
 the city, none of the thousand different sounds are heard 
 by the visitor walking among the grave-stones. Some of 
 the worthy men who passed their whole lives within the 
 city were here buried within its very heart; and who 
 could desire a higker tribute than the following, which 
 we found upon one of the monuments : 
 
 " If upright worth and virtue claim a tear, 
 Keader, 'tis due to him who sleepeth here — 
 Grateful, Affectionate, Sincare and Kind, 
 His memory's dear to those he left behind. 
 
 Though some one might wish to add to it, it is one 
 that the greatest and most renowned might covet. An- 
 other, a simple but melancholy one, also interested us ? 
 
 " The languishing head is at rest ; 
 Ite throbbing8 and achings are o'er ; 
 The quiet, immovable breast 
 Is heaved by affliction no more." 
 
 Also visited the very attractive Botanical Gardens, 
 
86 MART. 
 
 where one may spend an hour most delightfully. The 
 superior skill displayed in arranging and contrasting va- 
 rious plants are seen to perfection ; and particular portions 
 of the gardens, where the flowers are planted upon ter- 
 races, are strikingly beautifuL The Wavertree Park, 
 adjoining, we did not explore, and after a drive to Birken- 
 head returned to the hotel. 
 
 September 2Stk. — Went this morning to the Royal Gal- 
 lery of Arts, where we saw some very good paintings* 
 The best were principally scriptural subjects. Among 
 them was a remarkably and terribly expressive fuce of 
 Christ upon the cross, also " Christ disputing with the 
 Doctors," and ".alary washing the Saviour's feet," were 
 faithful representations. There were also casts of various 
 pieces of celebrated statuary. The Royal Museum con- 
 tains a most wonderful collection of birds and shells, and 
 stuffed animals, made by William Roscoe. Leaving these 
 interesting places, we went for a few moments into the 
 Ladies' Bazaar, Queen's Hall. It was a fair held on be- 
 half of some church, and there was the usual complement 
 of grab-bags, worsted and other ladies' fancy work, charm- 
 ing girls with very winning ways and persuasive manners, 
 and " refreshments." In short, a. fair is very much the 
 same sort of an affair the world over ; but as we fared well, 
 and the fairs treated us fairly, we have nothing of which to 
 complain. From this place we went to the Prince'sand 
 other docks, which extend for miles along the banks of 
 the Mersey. It was interesting to witness the opening 
 of the massive gates, the rapidity with which the foot- 
 bridges are turned, and the passage of some large vessel 
 through the dock gates. There is something curious in 
 
DIART. 97 
 
 Hie perfect, immovable security (so far as the water is 
 concerned) of a ship when resting safely in one of these 
 artificial basins, compared with its condition when bound- 
 ing' upon the stormy billows of the ocean. So accus- 
 tomed does one become to seeing a particular vessel in a 
 certain given locality for many weeks, that it seems, 
 When at length the vessel begins to move slowly and al- 
 most imperceptible toward the narrow outlet, as if a very 
 part of the town itself was about to change its position 
 or take its departure. It would seem as though the in- 
 habitants mast needs be a cosmopolitan people, when 
 ships from all parts of the world, containing the luxuries 
 and the natives of all lands, arrive daily at almost their 
 very doors ; and it is interesting for one who has no 
 knowledge of the destination of one of these packets, to 
 go down to the docks, and watch her progress from her 
 secure harbor out into the sea — speculating, meanwhile, 
 as to which quarter of the globe she is to visit ; the 
 length of time she may be absent; the strange adventures 
 she may meet with while being borne over the vast ex- 
 panse of the great deep, and the changes which may oc- 
 cur ere those who now set out hopefully upon a long 
 voyage again return to their native land. Those who do 
 business on the great waters must oftimes have thrilling 
 thoughts and experiences. But, after all, business is 
 the aim in all these transactions in commerce, though 
 romance may be connected therewith. Of all places the 
 harbor of Liverpool would seem the last place for a 
 dreamer. Here all is practical, and the man of money 
 thinks mainly of the chances and prospects of trade ; of 
 the profitable harvest he is to reap ; but, after all, he is a 
 dreamer ; for is it not the dream of wealth that brings 
 
 13 
 
\)8 DIART. 
 
 Jiim to the spot? Alas, that liis anticipations should fail 
 of being realized. Liverpool, it is said, has doubled 
 itself in twenty years, owing to its vast commercial re- 
 lations, and is extending itself greatly in certain direc- 
 tions. Perhaps it would not be easy to compute the 
 number of dwellings erected with every new dock that 
 is built. " No man liveth unto himself." The aim of, 
 comparatively, a few men to enrich themselves, cuds in 
 their being the means of promoting the wealth and 
 growth of whole cities, and of giving the means of life to 
 not a few of their inhabitants. The most commanding and 
 the handsomest building in this city is St. George's Hall. 
 Here we listened one evening to various performances upon 
 the strand orcan. The selections were admirable, and so 
 well and feelingly executed as to bring a spontaneous 
 smile of pleasure upon the faces of the listeners, and 
 pleasant dreams to their minds. To our regret, the 
 affair lasted but an hour. The organist was Mr. W. T. 
 Best, and we thought the name a most appropriate one. 
 With all due respect to our countrymen, W. H. Morgan, 
 it was not the only Best, but the best performance of the 
 kind that has ever delighted our ears or stirred our feel- 
 ings ; and not knowing to what cognomens the first two 
 initial letters of the artist's name referred, we thought they 
 might not inappropriately be denominated : Wonderful — 
 Talented— Best. 
 
 Friday, September 29th. — Drove down London "Road, 
 and through the beautiful private residence parks. After- 
 ward, went into the School of the Blind, where we heard 
 very good singing by the inmates. Most of them 
 came from their work into the small hall. There was a 
 
DIARY. 99 
 
 ..0 of sadness upon the countenances of a few, but it 
 was mingled with an expression of contentment; and one 
 or two faces wore the aspect of hearty good humor. The 
 time and harmony were admirable ; and we could not 
 doubt but that their sense of hearing was much quicker, 
 and their enjoyment of the music much greater, than it 
 w r ould have been had they been in the possession of all 
 their faculties. The small audience room was full to excess, 
 and the sympathy awakened by the earnestness with which 
 the singing and chanting was executed, and the misfortune 
 of the singers, made the occasion a most interesting and 
 affecting one. The pieces were mostly of a religious com- 
 position. We afterward saw the blind men making bas- 
 kets ; and, going into the wareroom, looked at the great 
 variety of wicker and worsted work, and other articles 
 of various descriptions. After purchasing some memen- 
 toes, we left the place much pleased with our visit. 
 Reached the hotel .about four; and just as we were en- 
 tering, we were reminded that our days are numbered, 
 by hearing of the arrival of the Scotia. God grant her 
 next ocean voyage may be a safe, a prosperous, and a 
 speedy one ! 
 
 ScjHcmbc}- 30th — Liverpool to Dublin. — Left the Prince's 
 Dock about eleven o'clock, and crossed the Mersey to 
 Birkenhead; from whence we journeyed to Hollyhead by 
 rail, changing carriages at Chester. We caught sight of 
 the grand tubular bridge — a great work of art. of which 
 [ill the world has heard — and had an occasional glimpse 
 of the mountains of Wales. About hall-past two we , 
 Hollyhead, and occupied about four hours in crossing 
 St. George's Channel, arriving at the fine harbor o ' 
 
100 DIARY. 
 
 Kingston at half-past six. Taking the train in wan 
 in half an hour we were in Dublin ; thus making- the jour- 
 ney from England to Ireland in eight hours. After a 
 late dinner at the Gresham Hotel, we strolled down 
 Sackville Street, and crossed the Liffey. 
 
 October 1st — Sunday, in Dublin. — At eleven o'clock, left 
 the hotel to attend the Presbyterian church, Rutland 
 Square ; but learned that the service did not commence 
 until the unusual hour of twelve. We then visited sev- 
 eral other places of worship, but found that twelve was 
 the customary hour, and concluded to return to Rutland 
 Square. The squares through which we walked were 
 strangely quiet, and the streets almost deserted. Being 
 still much before the time, we had an opportunity of 
 looking at the new and beautiful edifice, itself. We 
 learned, furthermore, that it was an old Scotch church, 
 and that it had been erected chiefly through the liberality 
 of one private gentleman. The service was simple, ani- 
 mated and impressive, such as one might expect to hear in 
 this land of native eloquence. " If the Son shall make 
 you free, ye shall be free indeed," was the text of the 
 sermon, and it contained several apt and striking illustra- 
 tions, some original and beautiful ones. He was not in- 
 tending (said the minister) to speak of the freedom of 
 some foreign body or nation, but ourselves. There was 
 much counterfeit freedom. That of the maniac who 
 twines together what rags he can find, and putting them 
 upon his head, struts about in presence of his miserable 
 companions, giving his orders and imagining himself a 
 king, yet all the while casting sidelong glances at his 
 keeper, of whom he stand; in awe. So men stood in 
 
DIARY. 101 
 
 pr of God's judgments. As men in counsel arc enabled 
 by the telegraph to speak to one another, when far-distant 
 from each other, as if but a curtain hung between them, 
 so God's judgments are brought near to man by the 
 human conscience ; so God's will and the world above 
 is brought into instantaneous communication with the 
 heart of man. Man in terror of these judgments is not 
 aided in the onward course by a representation of greater 
 punishment, but needs to be drawn by love to God — as a 
 ship sailing into some foreign port, and, striking upon a 
 rock, cannot be pulled off by any power, but may be 
 easily loosened by the rising of a few feet in the tide. 
 We are charged with sin, but we may be discharged. 
 
 In the afternoon went to the " Cemetery of Prospect," 
 and walked through the grounds, some portions of which 
 are tastefully arranged. Saw the O'Connell monument, 
 and the coffin in which the remains of the great Irish- 
 man repose. It was painful to notice the requests upon 
 the stones that the passer-by would pray for the deceased ; 
 and we were struck with one quotation from the Apocry- 
 pha, declaring it to be "a good and wholesome thing to 
 pray for the dead.'' Before returning " home," we drove 
 to St. Patrick's Cathedral, an old building, recovered and 
 rebuilt from and upon the remains of the former ancient 
 edifice. It is truly a beautiful building, and contains, be- 
 sides several monuments, (including a bust of Dean Swift, 
 whose remains are here buried), a most exquisitely sculp- 
 tured pulpit, representing several of the apostles, and the 
 appropriate texts, " How shall they believe in whom they 
 have not heard ? How shall they hear without a preacher ? 
 How shall they preach except they be sent?" 
 
a 02 .DIARY. 
 
 October -2d — Dublin. — This morning wo read several 
 columns in the daily paper on the " Fenian Agitation." 
 The article affirms that the conspiracy is preventing tour- 
 ists from visiting Ireland, and injuring the " Dublin Inter- 
 national Exhibition." We found, however, in passing 
 into the entrance hall of the Exhibition buildings, a goodly 
 number of visitors, all of whom seemed to be much en- 
 tertained with the display of sculpture, paintings, and 
 wares peculiar to the nations from whence they came. 
 Costly silks and bronzes from France ; Russia leather and 
 stag-ware from Russia ; the interior of a Chinese house 
 from China; skins and furs from Nova Scotia; magnifi- 
 cent carriages of all descriptions from England ; and so forth. 
 The Italian sculpture, chiefly from Rome, and pure and 
 white as the native marble from which it had been cut, w T as 
 very beautiful, and worthy the journey across the channel 
 to see it. Among them were statues of Saul and Judith, by 
 our countryman Mr. Story. There were not a few line paint- 
 ings, a number of which were the property of no less a per- 
 sonage than Queen Victoria. The reconciliation between 
 Reynolds and Romncy was peculiarly well executed, and 
 the collection contained many paintings which we would 
 be pleased to call our own. The grounds surrounding 
 the palace are charmingly and handsomely arranged, 
 and looked very inviting from the balconies. After se- 
 lecting .a few photographic views of the building itself, 
 and a few of its treasures, and doing a limited amount of 
 " shopping" in the arcades, we enjoyed a drive in Phoenix 
 Park, a very extensive green, containing some seventeen 
 hundred acres. There arc not a few noble trees within 
 the park, and pleasant rides several miles in length. Saw 
 the Lord Lieutenant's and Lord Mayor's carriage..; while 
 
MART. 103 
 
 ruling. The half hour devoted to the Zoological Gardens 
 was very entertainingly spent. We saw the handsomest 
 tiger in one of the cages that we had ever looked upon, and 
 watched the animals while the keeper fed them with the 
 raw and dripping carcass of some less fortunate quadruped. 
 The collection is one of the finest in Europe, and" de- 
 serving of a more lengthened and careful examination than 
 we could bestow upon it. But we had yet to visit one or 
 two of the large well-stocked dry-good stores, in order to 
 secure some souvenir "from Ireland," to take to those 
 whom we did not wish to forget, ere we made ready for 
 the first and only night journey we have made during all 
 dur travels. 
 
 Friday, October Gilt — Liverpool. — Our last day in the 
 Old World has dawned, and its light has faded away ! 
 To-day we received our final salt-water letters, and have 
 packed our thinks for the return voyage across the ocean. 
 The last few' days have been passed very quietly. Not 
 that we have seen' ev'eiy thing which one might be in- 
 terested in viewing in this city, nor because we have be-' 
 come satiated with sight-steeing. But there has' come an 
 unaccountable quietude upon our spirits — an undefinable 
 hush — the cause of which we have not attempted to an- 
 alyze. Perhaps it is induced by the thought that the 
 travel which has been so fraught with deep pleasure, ex- 
 citement, satisfaction, and profit, is at an end. Amoi. 
 the latest and best delineated pictures that we have seen 
 is one entitled "From Waterloo to Paris." It repre- 
 sented Napoleon in the cabin of one of the abodes of thi 
 lower classes, seated before a blazing wood fire, wrapped 
 in the sternest and most soul-absorbing meditations, while 
 
104 DIARY. 
 
 the startled awe-struck owners of the hut arc gazing at hint 
 in astonishment, and carrying on a pantomimic conversa- 
 tion. It was a fascinating picture ; and as the thoughts 
 connected with that bloody field of battle so engrossed 
 the mind of that mighty fallen general as to fender him 
 oblivious to his own position, as well as to all that was 
 going on around him, so may it be that the recollection of 
 the sights we have seen, the sacred historic grounds upon 
 which we have trodden, has rendered our humble selves 
 scarce conscious of our situation, and heedless as to the 
 busy flow of life by which we have been so constantly 
 surrounded — not that we have any distinct remembrance 
 of any particular journey, or wonderful exhibition of 
 man's perseverance and genius. It is rather a realization 
 of a vast accumulation of images and thoughts, impressed 
 indelibly upon our minds, to be recalled and enjoyed when. 
 time and distance shall have enabled u's to meditate calmly 
 upon the past. 
 
 Sunday, Octohcr Sth — Off Q//catstoicn.—\Ve embarked 
 yesterday, under most favorable circumstances, about nine 
 and one-half o'clock, and were under way by half-past 
 eleven for America. The sun was warm and the water calm, 
 and we passed most of the day on deck. We came to anchor 
 at Quccnstown before daylight this morning, and here we 
 have remained almost all day. About eleven, attended the 
 English Church service, conducted by Captain Judkins in 
 the large saloon, where by far the greater part of the pas- 
 sengers were assembled. The Captain's maimer and aspect 
 was serious and agreeable, and the service well and hearti- 
 ly conducted. For a sermon, we listened to one of the 
 " Graver Thoughts of a Country Parson," and all joined 
 
DIARY. 10-3 
 
 heartily in the prayer, written expressly for those upon 
 the sea — upon the bounding billows of which we were 
 soon to be tossing. About four, just as we sat down to 
 dinner, and in a storm, we left port. Owing to the 
 tide and the short sea, caused by tlie storm, there was 
 much motion ; and between seven and eight o'clock not 
 a few were unmistakably sea-sick, and went to bed for- 
 getting that it was Sunday — forgetting in a moment all 
 past pleasures, and in fact everything but their own 
 miserable selves. 
 
 October 9th. — Got out of our births about eight o'clock. 
 Sea-sickness gone ; but owing to the heavy swell many of 
 us complain of an unpleasant sensation in our heads, as 
 if the upper portion of our craniums were about to part 
 company with the lower. ' We ate but a slim breakfast. 
 Spent most of the day on deck, reading, talking, and walk- 
 ing. Found a sheltered spot behind the wheel-house, 
 where we sat for a long time watching the waves, and 
 thinking of the unchangeable past ; the uncertain present ; 
 and the possible future. Wind " dead ahead/' Making 
 thirteen knots per hour. 
 
 October Wtli. — Sea much agitated. Uncomfortable re- 
 maining upon deck a part of the time. Wind still direct- 
 ly ahead. No sail seen all day. Many passengers sea- 
 sick. Those who are not affected, are many of them 
 quiet and moody. The Scotia's company, as to soci- 
 ability, is in striking contrast to that met with on 
 board the French ship Lafayette, during our out- 
 ward passage. We have several well-known merchant- 
 gentlemen, and bankers, of $ew York, on board ; among 
 them, R. L, Stuart, William Butler Duncan, and Charles' 
 
 14 
 
iuv> DIARY, 
 
 Livermore. Brougham, the actor, is also a passenger) 
 and has kept quite a company in a roar of laughter, this 
 morning over Artemus Ward's travels. 
 
 *o 
 
 October 12th. — Yesterday the sea was more quiet, and 
 the ladies again appeared on deck. It is not the cap- 
 tain's fault that they are not always there, for he 
 makes frequent tours among the births, striving to 
 arouse the indolent and encourage the timid ones, and 
 induce them to arise and get out into the invigorating 
 salt air. To day we have had a storm, and all have been 
 more or less confined to the cabins. Having neglected to 
 go on board the Scotia the day before the sailing of the 
 steamer from Liverpool, we failed to secure seats in the 
 larger saloon ; but we were in some respects fortunate, 
 as it is more quiet and retired in the fore saloon, and there 
 is not so much motion. At the end of one of the tables 
 sits the son of the mayor of Liverpool, who is going to 
 make his first visit to America. How we should like, were 
 it possible, to experience (for a single moment) the impres- 
 sions made upon the mind of an intelligent man by a first 
 sight of our native land ! 
 
 Saturday, October 14th. — For two days we have had a 
 high sea. Wind southwest and west. Shipped several 
 heavy seas. We have been seeing the " Stormy Atlantic" 
 in all its terror, strength, and glory. Our ship appears 
 like a toy in the wild waste of waters, and it seems at 
 times as though the great surging waves must go over our 
 heads rather than under the keel of our noble vessel. 
 This evening the ship received a tremendous slap from a 
 wave, which brought all who were, in the forward cabin 
 to their feet ; many of whom thought that something had 
 
DIART. 107 
 
 happened, most assuredly ; but when they saw that the 
 iron-hound monster went rushing on, ploughing the 
 watery ridges, and throwing the masses of water to right 
 and left, they were soon calmed, and felt greater confi- 
 dence than ever in the " strong and stately vessel" that 
 could " weather all disaster." And indeed it was a com- 
 fort to know that the steamer was as perfect as all the 
 combined forces of" earth, air, fire and water" could make 
 it. But it was a greater to trust in Him whom " even 
 the winds and the sea obey," and who could at any time 
 " still the tempest." The prospect is, that we shall have 
 a long and unpropitious voyage. 
 
 Monday, October 16th. — Much speculation as to the time 
 when we shall arrive. All wearied of the ship life, and, 
 notwithstanding its " awful grandeur," of the ocean. In- 
 deed Capt. Judkins himself informed us, a few evenings 
 since, that although not sea-sick, he was himself sick of the 
 sea, and talked of giving it up. But although ready to 
 volunteer a remark now and then, our trusty captain is 
 not so ready to be questioned ; and when some one asked 
 him as to the truth of a certain story about the Scotia's 
 just grazing an iceberg during a recent passage, his only 
 answer was, that there were " a great many stories in the 
 newspapers." 
 
 October ISlh. — More pleasant weather. Yesterday 
 some of the voyagers who have been invisible during 
 almost the entire passage, made their appearance for 
 the first time at the table ; and it is most cheering to 
 see the tables filling up again. To-day we are only 
 three hundred miles from New York ! All on board 
 
10S DIARY. 
 
 much more cheerful and talkative, and conjecturing a:-, i 
 the exact hour of the ship's arrival in port. The saloons 
 arc very noisy ; but all cannot sympathize with the noise 
 and hilarity. Some few have been sick since the ship 
 left Liverpool, and some have other causes for sadness' j 
 but all are greatly thankful that the voyage is about over, 
 and well pleased to be nearing their homes. 
 
 Thursday, October, 19th, 1865 — America! — Just as we 
 awoke this morning the vessel was stopped, and a pilot 
 came on board. Then we knew that we could not be 
 far from land — our native land — our homes. Not many 
 hours afterward we entered the noble bay of New York, 
 and, as we passed the Narrows, saluted the Forts Hamil- 
 ton and Columbus ; and after having received the health- 
 warden on board, steamed rapidly up to the pier at Jersey 
 City, and the noble ship poured forth its human freight. 
 A few moments more, and many who had been long sepa- 
 rated were looking into each other's eyes, clasping each 
 other's hand?, embracing and kissing one another, and ex- 
 hibiting all sorts of demonstrations of joy. But before all 
 this took place— so inexorable is law, so supreme in its de- 
 . mands over all affection and feeling is business — that friends 
 and relatives who were in sight of one another, were not 
 allowed to meet until more than a hundred mail bags had 
 been first carried off from the ship. Yet there were those, 
 no doubt, who were as anxiously waiting for some of the 
 letters contained in those leathern bags as we were to pass 
 the barrier that prevented us from having the satisfaction 
 of touching those whom we so loved and longed to greet. 
 Although the moments seemed very long, they were but 
 brief; and presently we were at liberty to seek our homes, 
 
DIART. . 100 
 
 .there to render thanks to God, who, during all our travels 
 in foreign lands, and amid the dangers of the deep, had 
 kept us securely, blest us greatly, and returned us, at the 
 end of the fourth month from the time of our departure, 
 to our prized though desolated homes. 
 
 July 19th, I860. — The eight months that have elapsed 
 since we completed our return voyage across the Atlantic 
 have brought with them many changes, and, as is to be 
 expected in this life, some most sad ones. Some of us 
 who were passengers on board the fine ship Lafayette 
 have met together most unexpectedly and quite recently 
 in the house of mourning, to pay a last tribute of regard 
 to the memory of one whose bright inquiring mind, cour- 
 teous manners, and promising youth, had won our hearts, 
 and whose pleasing, companionable ways and conduct had 
 augmented our enjoyment of that first unequalled sea voy- 
 age. Another, high in position, and who was at the time of 
 our visit to the bright capital. of his kingdom, in the pos- 
 session of life and health — the King of Belgium — is no 
 more. The Princess Helena has become the wife of Prince 
 Christian. War is raging in Germany, so that the harbors 
 are blockaded, and visitors from the Old World must 
 needs be, transported overland to Havre, in order that 
 they may return to their homes. Vast improvements are 
 progressing and have been completed in Paris, and the sur- 
 face of the fine square of the Champ de Mars is being rapidly 
 covered with light and elegant buildings, wherein is to be 
 gathered the industry of all nations and the inhabitants Of 
 all lands. The coils of the Atlantic Cable are being 
 again laid upon the mountains and across the valleys of 
 the dee}), and we may soon expect to read daily bu!i" 
 
110 • DIART. 
 
 tins from London, Paris, Vienna, and Constantinople ! 
 So multitudinous, and various, and momentous are the 
 changes that are almost daily taking place in the great 
 arena of the world, that it would seem almost a folly to 
 write of the present, unless in view of its serving as his- 
 tory, in a few short months, or, at most, years — not only 
 physical, material changes, but those more powerful ones 
 of mind. Had Alexander the Great been a victor of the 
 world of mind, he need not have wept because more con- 
 quests were impossible, and he might have been Alexaiv- 
 der the Greatest God grant that all who have been 
 interested in watching the progress of those great events, 
 discoveries, and questions, which now interest the earnest, 
 thinking part of mankind, may live to see the significance 
 of those events made plain ; those discoveries in practical 
 operation ; and those vexing problems satisfactorily solved. 
 And yet may we all remember that the time cometh 
 apace when " those who weep will be as though they 
 wept not, and those that rejoice as though they rejoiced 
 not." and when " all knowledge shall vanish away." 
 Thankful for all those pleasures which may fall to our 
 lot, may we yet strive to understand the great mystery 
 of life, and so live that when the end of all things shall 
 come to us, we may fearlessly and resignedly go forth to 
 meet the future — life's duty done, 
 
 
 RD- ?9. 
 

 
 
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