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ILLINOIS IN 1837; 
 
 It 
 
 A SKETCH 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE 
 
 SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, FACE OF THE COUNTRY, I 
 PROMINENT DISTRICTS, 
 PRAIRIES, RIVERS, MINERALS, ANIMALS, 
 
 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTIONS, 
 
 PUBLIC LANDS, PLANS OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENT, 
 MANUFACTURES, &c. 
 
 OF THE 
 
 STATE OF ILLINOIS: 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS, 
 
 SKETCHES OF THE COUNTIES, CITIES, AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS 
 IN THE STATE: 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 A LETTER ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE PRAIRIES, 
 
 BY THE HON. H. L. ELLSVVOKTH. 
 
 TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED 
 
 THE LETTERS FROM A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 
 
 -It is a goodly sight to see 
 
 What Heaven hath done for this delicious land! 
 What fruits of Iragrance blush on every tree ! 
 What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand! 
 
 ***** 
 The vine on high, the willow branch below, 
 Mixed in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glo' 
 Childe Harold's Filgri 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 PUBLISHED BY S. AUGUSTUS MITCHELL, 
 
 AND BY 
 
 GRIGG & ELLIOT, No. 9, N. FOURTH STREET, 
 183 7. 
 
 -J". - 
 
rsfs 
 
 .7 ■ 33 
 
 Entered according to the act of congress, in the year 1837, by S. Augustus 
 Mitchell, in the office of the district court for the eastern district of Penn- 
 sylvania. 
 
 STERKOTYPED BY J. FAG AN PHILADELPHIA. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Situation, Boundaries, Extent, &;c. Page 9 
 
 Face of the Country, Soil, <Stc 10 
 
 Prairies 11 
 
 Grand Prairie 12 
 
 Origin of tlie . . . . , 13 
 
 Breaking up, Cost of, &c 14 
 
 Barrens 15 
 
 Forest or Timbered Land ... 16 
 
 Bottom Land 17 
 
 American Bottom 18 
 
 Prominent Districts 19 
 
 Military Bou.ntv Tract 19 
 
 Situation and Extent 19 
 
 Climate of the 21 
 
 Adaptation for Agriculture and 
 
 Commerce . . 21 
 
 Geological Structure of the Upland 
 
 Prairies of the 22 
 
 Rock River Country 22 
 
 Fertility 23 
 
 Objection to the 23 
 
 Minerals of 24 
 
 Health of the 25 
 
 Prospective Improvement 25 
 
 Sangamon Country 25 
 
 Rapid Settlement of 25 
 
 Superiority of the Prairies for agri- 
 cultural purposes 26 
 
 Adaptation for raising Stock 26 
 
 Cultivation of the Sugar Beet Root 26 
 
 Results in France 27 
 
 Historical Anecdote 27 
 
 Rivers 28 
 
 Mississippi 28 
 
 Rock River 31 
 
 Kaskaskia • 32 
 
 Ohio and Tributaries 32 
 
 Wabash and Tributaries 33 
 
 Illinois and Tributaries 34 
 
 Sangamon 36 
 
 Minerals 37 
 
 Animals, Wild 38 
 
 Domestic 41 
 
 Wild and Cultivated Fruits '. . . 43 
 
 Productions of the Soil 43 
 
 Corn, Wheat, &c 44 
 
 Sugar Beet Root, mode of cultiva- 
 tion 44 
 
 Climate 46 
 
 Winds 47 
 
 Diseases 47 
 
 Civil Divisions 48 
 
 Table of the Area and Population of the 
 
 Counties 48 
 
 Government 50 
 
 Public Lands 51 
 
 System of Surveys 51 
 
 Meridian and Base Lines 51 
 
 Diagram of a Township surveyed 
 into sections, and a .Section into 
 
 halves, quarters, &c 52 
 
 Land Districts and Offices 53 
 
 Pre-emption Rights, Taxes, tfcc. . . 54 
 
 Plans of Internal Improvement 55 
 
 Manufactures 58 
 
 Education 59 
 
 Colleges, (fcc 61 
 
 Religion 62 
 
 Suggestions to Emigrants 63 
 
 Travelling Routes 64 
 
 Location, Method of Farming, &c 68 
 
 History 71 
 
 Counties 73 
 
 Adams 73 
 
 Alexander 73 
 
 Bond 73 
 
 Boone 74 
 
 Calhoun 74 
 
 Cass 74 
 
 Champaign 75 
 
 Clark 75 
 
 Clay 75 
 
 Clinton 75 
 
 Coles 76 
 
 Cook 76 
 
 Crawford 76 
 
 Edgar 3 76 
 
 Edwards 77 
 
 Etlingham 77 
 
 Fayette 77 
 
 Franklin 77 
 
 Fulton 78 
 
 Gallatin 78 
 
 Greene 79 
 
 Hamilton 79 
 
 Hancock 80 
 
 Henry 80 
 
 Iroquois 80 
 
 Jackson 81 
 
 J.isper 81 
 
 Jctferson bl 
 
 Jo Daviess 8xJ 
 
 Johnson 82 
 
 Kane 83 
 
 Knox 84 
 
 La Salle 81 
 
 La wrence 85 
 
 I/ivingston 86 
 
 Macon 87 
 
 Madison 87 
 
1 IV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Macoupin S8 
 
 Marion b9 
 
 M'Donough 89 
 
 M'fknry 89 
 
 M'Lcan 90 
 
 Mcicer 91 
 
 Monroe 92 
 
 Montgomery 92 
 
 Moigan 92 
 
 Ogle 93 
 
 Peoria 94 
 
 Perry 97 
 
 Pike 97 
 
 Pope 98 
 
 Putniini 99 
 
 Randolph 101 
 
 Ruck Island 102 
 
 Sangamon 103 
 
 Sclmvlcr ... 10.5 
 
 Shelby 10.') 
 
 St. Cluir 105 
 
 Stephenson 106 
 
 Tiizevvell 106 
 
 Union 107 
 
 Verinillion 107 
 
 Wabash 108 
 
 Warren 108 
 
 W.isliington 109 
 
 Wavne 109 
 
 White ,110 
 
 Whiteside 110 
 
 Will 110 
 
 Winnebago Ill 
 
 New Counties 112 
 
 Bure.iu 112 
 
 Coffee 112 
 
 Do Ivalb 112 
 
 Michigm 113 
 
 Cities .\.\i> Towns 113 
 
 Alton 113 
 
 Beardsfown 115 
 
 Belleville 116 
 
 Caiiokia 117 
 
 Canton 118 
 
 Carrollton 118 
 
 Chic;igo 119 
 
 Decatur 121 
 
 Edwardsville 121 
 
 G.Jena 122 
 
 Gratton 122 
 
 Jacksonville 122 
 
 Juliet 123 
 
 Kaskaskia 123 
 
 Lebanon 124 
 
 Mount Carniel 124 
 
 Naples 125 
 
 Ottawa 125 
 
 Pekin 125 
 
 Peoria 126 
 
 Quincy 127 
 
 Rushville 128 
 
 Shawnoctown 128 
 
 Si)ringficld 129 
 
 L'ppcr Alton 129 
 
 V.,ndalia 129 
 
 Whitehall 130 
 
 Winchester 130 
 
 Cultivation of the Prairies 130 
 
 Letters from a Rambler in the West 133 
 No. 1. 
 
 The Journcv 1 33 
 
 The " Far West" 134 
 
 A Prairie on fire 134 
 
 Alton 134 
 
 Chicago 1 35 
 
 No. II.— Peru 135 
 
 No. III. — A Snow-Storm on the 
 
 Pra irie 136 
 
 No. IV. 
 
 Peoria 138 
 
 Illinois— The West 138 
 
 No. V. 
 
 The East— The West 139 
 
 Enterprize — Agriculture 140 
 
 No. VI. 
 
 Ti>e Acquisition of Wealth 142 
 
 Young Men and Old 142 
 
 Advantages of the West 143 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The immense resources of the Western Country, the vast increase of 
 wealth, population, and influence in the New States, have long been, but 
 are more particularly at the present time, topics of great and increasing 
 interest throughout the whole of our vast Republic, and are arresting the 
 attention not only of our own citizens, but of the inhabitants of foreign 
 countries. Such are the admirable facilities of the West for trade, such 
 the variety and fertility of its soil, the number and excellence of its 
 natural products, the genial nature of its climate, and the rapidity with 
 which its population is increasing, that it has become an object of the 
 deepest interest to every American patriot. To this region the speculator 
 is attracted by the increasing value of property; the politician anticipates 
 the time when, through the ballot-box, the West sliall r.ile; the young and 
 enterprising, turning from the eager competition of industry and talent in 
 the older states, see here a less occupied field of action ; the philanthropist 
 feels a benevolent anxiety for the intellectual, moral, and religious condi- 
 tion of a population thus collecting and increasing, and destined to fill the 
 measure of our national glory. The greatness and importance of this 
 region is bursting into vision in a manner scarcely less wonderful to the 
 present generation than was American prosperity to the slowly progressing 
 European. 
 
 A single glance at the Map of the United States will show, that the direc- 
 tion of our government will shortly be in the hands of the people of the 
 West. The thirteen old states have an area of about 390,000 square miles; 
 while only eight of the new number about the same, and the whole rt\cio-n, 
 stretching westward to the Pacific Ocean, contains not less than 1,700,000 
 square miles of territory. 
 
 No state in the Western Country has attracted more attention and eli- 
 j cited so many inquiries from those who desire to avail themselves of the 
 advantages of a settlement in a new and rising country, as that of Illinois; 
 and none is filling up so rapidly with an industrious and intelligent popu- 
 lation, from every part of our extensive country. When the public works, 
 I which are now advancing with all possible speed, are completed and in 
 successful operation, Illinois will vie with any state in our republic, and 
 no doubt excel any in the West, in the amount and importance of those 
 artificial channels of intercourse which serve to connect the extremities 
 of our wide-spread territory, and bind our population by links stronger 
 than iron, by lines extending thousands of miles. 
 
 This state is undoubtedly the richest in soil of any in the Union, and of 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 course holds out the greatest prospect of advantage to the agriculturist. 
 Here is ample room for farmers, there being still vast quantities of first- 
 rate land extending in every direction, uncultivated, which may be had 
 not only at a reasonable but a cheap rate, and one acre of which will in a 
 majority of cases produce at least twice as much as the same amount of 
 land in most of the eastern states. If rural occupations are pleasant and 
 profitable anywhere in our country, they must be peculiarly so in Illinois; 
 for here the produce of the farmer springs up almost spontaneously, not 
 more than one-third of the labour being necessary on the farms here that 
 is required on those in the east. 
 
 To be able to judge of the extent and power of vegetation in this region, 
 one must reside here through the summer, and observe with what luxu- 
 riance and vigour the vegetable creation is pushed on, how rapidly the 
 grain and fruits grow, and what a depth of verdure the forests assume. 
 This stale, having a vast extent of the most fertile land, must of course 
 raise with the greatest ease all the articles to which her soil and climate 
 are favourable. By her long line of coast on the Mississippi, rarely hin- 
 dered from being navigable by the lowness of the water, Illinois has facili- 
 ties for conveying her products to market which the states situated on 
 the Ohio have not. From her immense prairies, and boundless summer 
 range for stock, she has advantages for raising cattle and horses superior 
 to those of the other western districts. 
 
 A gentleman travelling in the state of Illinois remarks, in a letter to a 
 friend from Springfield of March 2, 1837: — -'Our 'far west' is improving 
 rapidly, astonishingly. It is five years since I visited it, and the changes 
 within that period are like the work of enchantment. Flourishing towns 
 have grown up, farms have been opened, and comfortable dwellings, fine 
 barns and all appurtenances, steam-mills and manufacturing establish- 
 ments erected, in a country in which the hardy pioneer had at that time 
 sprinkled a few log cabins. The conception of Coleridge may be realized 
 sooner than he anticipated : ' The possible destiny of the United States of 
 America, as a nation of a hundred millions of freemen — stretching from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific, living under the laws of Alfred, and speaking 
 the language of Shakspeare and Milton, is an august conception — why 
 should we not wish to see it realized]' On the subject of internal improve- 
 ments the young giant of the West is making herculean efforts. A bill 
 passed the legislature, a few days since, appropriating eight million of dol- 
 lars for rail-roads, canals, &c. ; works which when completed will cost 
 twenty millions. On Monday last another bill was passed, transferring 
 the seat of government from Vandalia in Fayette county to this place — 
 Springfield — which is in the fertile district of Sangamon county, and as 
 near as may be the geographical centre of the state, and soon will be the 
 centre of population. There will be but one more session at Vandalia. 
 
 " The state of Illinois has probably the finest body of fertile land of any 
 state in the Union, and the opportunities for speculation are numerous. 
 Property will continue to advance, admirable farms and town-lots may be 
 purchased with a certainty of realizing large profits. The country here 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 is beautiful — equal in native attractions, though not In classic recollections, 
 to the scenes I visited and admired in Italy. The vale of Arno is not more 
 beautiful than the valley of Sangamon, with its lovely groves, murmuring 
 brooks and flowery meads — 
 
 ' Oh Italy, sweet clime of song, where oft 
 
 The bard hath sung thy beauties, matchless deemed, 
 
 Thou hast a rival in this western land !' " 
 
 To give, at the least possible expense, a brief and yet satisfactory ac- 
 count of Illinois, its prominent natural features and productions, plans of 
 internal improvement, prospects and advantages for emigrants, political 
 subdivisions, cities, tawns, travelling routes to and from various points, 
 &c., is the object of the following sketch. Those who are about to remove 
 to this state, or who, for business, pleasure, or health, intend to visit it, or 
 who are interested in its welfare and expect to profit by its prosperity, 
 will probably find "Illinois in 1837" occasionally useful as a work of refer- 
 ence. Individuals well acquainted with the state, who have travelled 
 extensively through it, and whose opportunities have enabled them to 
 become conversant with its districts, counties, towns, &,c., or who have 
 carefully perused the various publications illustrative of it, may not meet 
 with any thing that they did not know before. Those less informed, how- 
 ever, will, it is hoped, find a perusal of the work add something to the 
 stock of information already acquired respecting the region in question. 
 Such are now the facilities of intercommunication between the eastern 
 and western states, and to the most prominent points in the Mississippi 
 valley, that thousands are visiting parts of this interesting section of the 
 Union, every month and week. Some knowledge of the different travel- 
 ling routes that lead to the various portions of it will no doubt be desira- 
 ble to all who mean to journey in that direction. 
 
 The bulk of the information hereafter detailed is quite recent, being 
 derived in part from the lately published and valuable Gazetteer of Illinois, 
 and the Emigrant's Guide, by the Rev. J. M. Peck; also, from Flint's 
 Geography and History of the Western States, Beck's Gazetteer of Illinois 
 and Missouri, Schoolcraft's Travels, and the works of Darby, Hall, Long, 
 &c. The work contains, likewise, extracts from different correspondents, 
 and from various gazettes printed in the state, some of them only a 
 few weeks before its publication; particularly the Peoria Register and 
 North-Western Gazetteer, the attention bestowed by the editor of which 
 in distributing recent geographical and local information calculated to be 
 useful to emigrants, renders it undoubtedly the most interesting print of 
 the kind in the state. 
 
 The accompanying Map of Illinois is, for its scale, probably the most 
 complete yet published ; it contains, it is believed, all the United States 
 surveys available at this time; the whole of the counties, seventy in num- 
 ber, organized in the state ; and will be found, on examination, to corre- 
 spond with the descriptive part of the book, — a desideratum not always 
 found in publications of this kind. 
 
viu PREFACE. 
 
 The first 72 pages are devoted to the illustration of the Natural Geogra- 
 phy, Minerals, Animal and Vegetable Productions of the State, also its 
 Civil Divisions, Public Lands, Plans of Internal Improvements, Manufac- 
 tures, Education, &c., Suggestions to Emigrants, Travelling Routes, 
 Remarks on Location and Manner of Building in newly-settled Coun- 
 tries. The next 53 pages are occupied with a descriptive sketch of the 
 Counties, Cities and Tow^ns in Illinois; the remainder of the work is filled 
 up with a Letter from the Hon. H. L. Ellsworth on the Cultivation of the 
 Prairies, together with the Letters of a Rambler in the West. The latter 
 are from the pen of a talented young Philadelphian, who travelled in Illi- 
 nois in the early part of the present year ; they are written in a pleasing 
 and spirited manner, and contain a great deal of lecal information, inter- 
 spersed with piquant remarks and interesting observations. The inform- 
 ation in Mr. Ellsworth's letter on the advantages and cultivation of the 
 prairie lands in the Western States, is well calculated to interest those 
 whose views are turned in that direction ; and the remarks and state- 
 ments are declared by those editors of Western papers who have repub- 
 lished the letter, to be the most valuable and accurate that they have 
 seen. 
 
GENERAL VIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 SITUATION, BOUNDARIES, EXTENT, &c. 
 
 The rich and highly favoured region forming' the State of Illinois is bounded on 
 the north by tlie Territory of Wisconsin, east by lake Michigan and the states of 
 Indiana and Kentucky, south by the latter state, and west by the states of Missouri 
 and the Territory of Wisconsin. It extends north and south from 37° to 42° 30' 
 north latitude, and east and west from 10° 32' to 14° 33' longitude west from Wash- 
 ington City. Its extreme length is 380 miles; its breadth in the north is about 
 145 miles, but it extends in the centre to 220 miles, whence it contracts towards 
 the soutli to a narrow point. The area of the whole state, including that part of 
 Lake Michigan belonging to it, is about 59,000 square miles, of which 50,000 
 square miles, or thirty-two millions of acres, are considered to be capable of culti- 
 vation. 
 
 The Act of Congress admitting this state into the Union prescribes the bounda- 
 ries as follows: beginning at the mouth of the Wabash river, thence up the middle 
 of the main channel thereof to the point where a line drawn due north of Vin- 
 cennes last crosses that stream, thence due north to the north-west corner of the 
 state of Indiana, thence east with the boundary line of the same state to the middle 
 of Lake Michigan, thence due north along the middle of said lake to north lati- 
 tude 40° 30', thence west to the middle of the Mississippi river, thence down the 
 middle of the main channel thereof to the mouth of the Ohio river, thence up the 
 latter stream along its northern or right shore to the place of beginning. The 
 outline of the state is in extent about 1160 miles, the whole of which, except 305 
 miles, is formed by navigable waters. 
 
 As a physical section, Illinois occupies the lower part of that inclined plane of 
 which Lake Michigan and both its shores are the higher sections, and which is 
 extended into and embraces the much greater part of Indiana. Down this plane, 
 in a very nearly south-western direction, flow the Wabash and its confluents, the 
 Kaskaskia, the Illinois and its confluents, and the Rock and Wisconsin rivers. The 
 lowest section of the plane is also the extreme southern angle of Illinois, at the 
 mouth of the Ohio river, about 340 feet above tide-water, in the Gulf of Mexico. 
 Though the state of Illinois does contain some low hilly sections, as a whole, it 
 may be regarded as a gently inclining plane in the direction of its rivers, as 
 already indicated. Without including minute parts, the extreme arable elevation 
 may be safely stated at 800 feet above tide-water, and the mean height at 550. 
 
 " In some former period," observes Mr. Schoolcraft, " there has been an obstruc- 
 tion in the channel of the Mississippi, at or near Grand Tower, producing a stag- 
 nation of the current at an elevation of about 130 feet above the present ordinary 
 water-mark. This appears evident from the general elevation and direction of the 
 hills, which for several hundred miles above are separated by a valley from 20 to 
 25 miles wide, that deeply embosoms the current of the Mississippi." Wherever 
 these hills exhibit rocky and abrupt fronts, a series of water-lines are distinctly 
 visible, and preserve a remarkable parallelism uniformly presenting their greatest 
 
 B ' ' » 
 
10 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 depression towards the sources of the river; and, at Grand Tower, these water- 
 lines are elevated about one hundred feet above the summit of the stratum in which 
 petnlaction of the madrepora and various fossil organic remains are deposited. 
 Here the rocks of dark-coloured limestone, which pervade the country to a great 
 extent, by their projections towards each other, indicate that they have, at a remote 
 period, been disunited, if not by some convulsion of nature, by the incessant action 
 of the water upon a secondary formation, and that a passage has been effected 
 throuo-h them, giving vent to the stagnant waters on the prairie lands above, and 
 opening for the Mississippi its present channel. 
 
 The^bank of tiie Mississippi from the vicinity of Grand Tower, extending up- 
 wards on the Missouri side of the river, is sufficiently elevated above the surface 
 of the Slate of Illinois to have Ibrmed a western shore of an expanse of water, 
 covering its present area. And the alluvial deposits of which the prairies are 
 fbrmed,\re composed of fine, hard, and compact layers of earth, similar to those 
 at the bottom of mill-ponds of water long stagnant. 
 
 FACE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 Next to Louisiana and Delaware, Illinois is the most level state in the Union. 
 A small tract in the southern part of the state is hilly, and tlie nortJiern portion is 
 also somewhat broken. There are likewise considerable elevations along the Illi- 
 nois river, and the bluffs of the Mississippi in some places might pass almost for 
 mountains. But by far the greater proportion of the state is either distributed in 
 vast plains, or in barrens, that are gently rolling like the waves of the sea after a 
 storm. We may travel on the wide prairies tor days, without encountering an 
 elevation that is worthy to be called a hill. In no part of the peopled divisions of 
 the United States, are "tiiere such great sections of prairie country. One vast prai- 
 rie, with very little interruption, spreads from the shores of the Mississippi to those 
 of Lake Michigan. 
 
 On the route" from Cincinnati to St. Louis, the great road passes through this 
 state, in its whole extent of width. More than 100 miles of it is high, dry, and 
 rich prairie. In all this distance, the margins of the streams are almost the only 
 places where timbered land is found ; and the streams have only narrow skirts of 
 wood. The first stratum of soil in tliis wide extent of country, is a black, friable, 
 and sandy loam, of from two to five feet in thickness. The next is a red clay, 
 mixed with fine sand, and from five to ten feet in thickness. The third is a hard 
 blue clay of a beautiful appearance, and a greasy feeling, mixed with pebbles, and, 
 when exposed to the air, emitting a fetid smell. The soil is of the finest quality. 
 In the season of flowers, the eye and all the senses receive the highest gratifica- 
 tion. In the time of strawberries, thousands of acres are reddened with the finest 
 quality of this delicious fruit. 
 
 Between Carlisle and St. Louis, an extent of 50 miles, we meet with woods, 
 streams, lime-stone ledges, and a rolling country ; although we cross an occa- 
 sional prairie, quite to the American Bottom'. On the north of this road, and be- 
 tween it and the Illinois, the surface is generally more irregular. Much of the 
 country may be termed broken. The hills abound with stone-coal. A range of 
 heights commences at the bluffs that bound the American Bottom, near Kaskaskia, 
 and stretches north-eastwardly through the state towards Lake Michigan. A noble 
 limestone bluff breaks off, almost at right angles to this chain, and stretches along 
 the margin of the American Bottom to the point nearly opposite the Missouri. 
 This bluff has, in many places, a regular front of perpendicular limestone, not un- 
 frequently 300 feet high. Another line of river bluffs commences opposite the 
 mouth of the Missouri, and reaches the mouth of the Illinois. Opposite Portage 
 des Sioux, these bluffs shoot up into detached points and pinnacles, which, with the 
 hoary colour of the rocks, have, at a distance, the appearance of the ancient spires 
 and towers of a town. This chain of bluffs marks the limits of the alluvion of 
 the Illinois. As along the Mississippi, the face of this grand work of nature is 
 frequently perpendicular. When the limits of the alluvion are marked on one 
 side by this wall, on the opposite side they are bounded by a succession of singular 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 11 
 
 liills, parallel to eacli other, called by the French inamelles. What is sino-ujar is, 
 that a beautiful prairie is seen on that side which is bounded by the perpendicular 
 bluifs ; and a thick, tangled, and heavily timbered bottom on the side of the river 
 that is marked with these mamelles. When the prairie is found on the right or 
 the left of the river, so arc all these accompaniments : and they regularly alter- 
 nate, being found first on one side and then on the other. 
 
 PRAIRIES. 
 
 Undoubtedly the most remarkable feature of the state of Illinois is its extensive 
 prairies, or imwooded tracts. They begin on a comparatively small scale in tlie 
 basin of lake Erie, and already form the bulk of the land about lake Michigan, the 
 Upper Wabash, and the Illinois; but on the west of the JMississippi they are more 
 predominant; or rather, the whole of this tract may be described as prairie inter- 
 sected by patches of woo'dland, chiefly confined to the river valleys. The charac- 
 teristic peculiarity of the prairies is the absence of timber ; in other respects, they 
 present all the varieties of soil and surface that are found elsewhere; some are 
 of inexhaustible fertility, others of hopeless sterility ; some spread out in vast, 
 boundless plains, others are undulating or rolling, while others are broken by hills. 
 In general, they are covered with a rich growth of grass, forming excellent natural 
 meadows, from which circumstance they take their name. 
 
 The Indians and hunters annually set fire to the prairies, in order to dislodge the 
 game: the fire spreads with tremendous rapidity, and presents one of the grandest 
 aud most terrible spectacles in nature. The flames rush through the long grass 
 with a noise like thunder; dense clouds of smoke arise; and the sky itself appears 
 almost on fire, particularly during the night. Travellers then crossing the prairie 
 are sometimes in serious danger, which they can only escape by setting fire to the 
 grass around, and taking shelter in the burnt part, where the approaching flame 
 must expire for want of fuel. Nothing can be more melancholy than the aspect 
 of a burnt prairie, presenting a uniform black surfiice, like a vast plain of charcoal. 
 A prejudice at one time prevailed against the prairies, as not being fit for cultiva- 
 tion ; but this vvas found to be erroneous, and they are more in request, as it is a 
 most important object to save the labour of clearing the wood. 
 
 Prairie is a French word, signifying meadmv, and is applied to any description 
 of surface that is destitute of timber and brushwood, and clothed with grass. Wet, 
 dry, level, and undulating, are terms of description merely, and apply to prairies in 
 the same sense as they do to forest lands. 
 
 The prairies of Illinois may be classed under three general divisions; — the 
 healthy, or bushy; the alluvial, or wet; and the drj', or undulating. Those desig- 
 nated healthy, have springs of water, and are covered with bushes of hazel and 
 furze, small sassafras shrubs, interspersed with grape-vines, and in the season' of 
 flowers become beautifully decorated by a rich profusion of gay herbaceous plants. 
 Early in March the forests are in blossom, and the brilliant red tufts of the Judas 
 tree (cercis canadensis) handsomely exhibit its charms. The I^onicera Flava, or 
 yellow-flowered honeysuckle, diffuses its pleasing fragrance, and the lovely yellow 
 jasmine, or Jasminum fruticans, impregnates the air with its delicious perfume ; 
 and a vast variety of other odoriferous plants are passively engaged in the faithful 
 discharge of their offices, either of display, or of the emission of their well-flavored 
 odours. The bushes are often over-topped with the Humulus Lupulus, or common 
 hop. 
 
 Of the healthy prairies these lines of the poet are highly descriptive. 
 
 Travellers ent'ring here behold around 
 
 A large and spacious plain on every side, 
 Strewed with beauty, whose fair grassy ground, 
 
 Mantled with green, and goodly beaulified, 
 
 Willi all the ornaments of Flora's pride. 
 
 The alluvial, or wet prairies, are generally on the margins of the great water- 
 courses, though sometimes they are at a distance from them ; their soil is deep, 
 
12 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 black, friable, and of exhaustless fertility ; excellent, in apposite latitudes, for wheat 
 and maize, but grapes hitherto have not been cultivated with much success, yet, as 
 those that are wild grow luxuriantly, it can hardly be doubted that a hybridous 
 species formed from a union of one of these natives and the exotic vine, would 
 prove prolific of estimable fruit. 
 
 From May to October, the prairies are covered with tall grass and flower-pro- 
 ducing weeds. In June and July, they seem like an ocean of flowers of various 
 hues, waving to the breezes which sweep over them. The numerous tall flower- 
 ing shrubs and vegetables which grow luxuriantly over these plains, present a 
 striking and delightful appearance. 
 
 The dry or undulating prairies are almost destitute of springs and of all vege- 
 tation, with the exception of weeds, flowers, and grass. The undulations are so 
 slight that, to the eye, the surface has almost the appearance of an uninterrupted 
 level, though the ravines made by freshets show that there is a considerable degree 
 of inclination. In the prairie region there are numerous ponds, formed some from 
 the surface water, the effect of rain, and the melting of the snows in tlie spring, 
 and others near the rivers from their overflowing. In these are deposited great 
 quantities of the various kinds of fishes common in the western streams, which, 
 atler the waters subside, are frequently taken away by cart-lrads, affording to the 
 residents in the vicinity abundance of animal food almost without labour : those 
 that are left, when their element becomes evaporated, attract thousands of buzzards, 
 who prey on and devour them. Herds of deer bound over these plains. 
 
 These are the Gardens of the Desert — these 
 
 The unshorn fields, boundless and beautiful, 
 
 And fresh as the young earth ere man had sinned. 
 
 The Prairies! I behold thorn for the first. 
 
 And my heart swells, while the dilated sight 
 
 Takes in the enrircling vastness. Lo! they stretch 
 
 In airy undulations, far away, 
 
 As if the ocean, in his gentlest swell, 
 
 Stood still, with all his rounded billows fixed, 
 
 And motionless forever. — Motionless? — 
 
 No — they 're all unchained again. The clouds 
 
 Sweep over with their shadows, and beneath 
 
 The surface rolls and fluctuates to the eye : 
 
 Dark hollows seem to glide along, and clmse 
 
 The sunny ridges. 
 
 In the southern part of the state, the prairies are comparatively small, varying 
 in size, from those of several miles in extent, to those which contain only a few 
 acres. As we go northward, they widen and extend on the more elevated ground 
 between the water-courses to a vast distance, and are frequently from six to twelve 
 miles in width. Their borders are by no means uniform, but are intersected in 
 every direction by strips of forest land advancing into and receding from the prai- 
 rie towards the water-courses, whose banks are always lined with timber, princi- 
 pally of luxuriant growth. Between these streanis, in many instances, are copses 
 and groves of timber, containing from 100 to 2000 acres, in the midst of the prai- 
 ries, like islands in the ocean. This is a common feature in the country between 
 the Sangamon river and Lake Michigan, and in the northern parts of the state. 
 The lead-mine region, both in this state and the Wisconsin Territory, abounds with 
 these groves. 
 
 The largest tract of prairie in Illinois is denominated the Grand Prairie. Under 
 this general name is embraced the country lying between the waters which fall 
 into the Mississippi, and those which enter the VVabash rivers. It does not consist 
 of one vast tract, boundless to the vision, and uninhabitable for want of timber, but 
 is made up of continuous tracts, with points of titnbcr projecting inward, and long 
 arms of prairie extending between the creeks and smaller streams. The southern 
 points of the Grand Prairie are formed in the north-eastern parts of Jackson county, 
 and extend in a north-eastern course between the streams, of various widths, from 
 one to ten or twelve miles, through Perry, Washington, Jefferson, Marion, the 
 eastern part of Fayette, Efflngham, through the western part of Coles into Cham- 
 paign and Iroquois counties, where it becomes connected with the prairies that pro- 
 
r 
 
 1 
 
 THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 13 
 
 ject eastward from the Illinois river and its tributaries. A large arm lies in Ma- 
 rion county, between the waters of Crooked creek and the east fork of the Kaskas- 
 kia river, where the Vincennes road passes through in its longest direction. This 
 part alone is frequently called the Grand Prairie. 
 
 Much tlie largest part of the Grand Prairie is gently undulating, rich, and fertile 
 land ; but of the southern portion, considerable tracts are flat, and of rather inferior | 
 soil. No insurmountable obstacle exists to its future population. No portion of it ! 
 is more than six or eiglit miles distant from timber; and coal in abundance is found 
 in various parts. Those who have witnessed the changes produced upon a prairie 
 surface within twenty or thirty years, consider these extensive prairies as offering 
 no serious impediment to the future growth of the state. 
 
 On the origin of the prairie lands it is difficult to decide : various speculations 
 have arisen trom this subject, giving rise to a diversity of opinions. The level 
 surface of the state of Illinois (according to the ideas of many) was formed by 
 inundations. The whole of the state, from a few miles north of tiie Ohio river, 
 where the prairies commence, affords tolerably conclusive evidence of having been 
 once covered with water, forming probably a large lake similar to Lakes Michigan, 
 Erie, &c. When the lowest point near the Grand Tower perhaps was worn away, 
 so as to drain the waters off, it was left with a rich Soft muddy surface nearly level, 
 as we may suppose is the case in the present lakes. When this soft soil was 
 drenched with rains, the waters, gathering into little rills as they descended to the 
 lowest parts, would intersect the soft soil, and finally wear away much of the rich 
 surface : hence we see the elevated parts the most fertile, while the lower and 
 more broken and timbered land is the poorest soil. 
 
 From whatever cause the prairies at first originated, they are undoubtedly per- 
 petuated by the autumnal fires that have annually swept over them from an era 
 probably long anterior to the earliest records of history. Along the streams, and 
 in other places where vegetation does not suffer from the drought of the latter part 
 of summer and early autumn, and of course becomes sear and combustible less soon 
 than it does in the plains which are drier, the fire does not encroach much ; conse- 
 quently the forests prevail there, and probably gradually increase in some places 
 upon the prairies. As soon as these are ploughed, and the heavy grass kept under, 
 young timber begins to sprout, particularly such as is produced by winged seeds, 
 as cotton-wood, sycamore, &c. Where the soil is either too poor or too wet to 
 produce a heavy annual growth of grass sufficient to make a strong fire, there is 
 no prairie. 
 
 It is well known that in the richest and most dry and level tracts, the aboriginal 
 inhabitants, before they had the use of fire-arms, were in the habit of enclosing 
 their game in circular fires, in order that it might bewilder and frighten the ani- 
 mals, and thus render them an easy prey. 
 
 When Captain John Smith visited the Chesapeake, he found extensive prairies, 
 and first bore witness to the practice of circular fires as a mode of hunting among 
 the savages. These tracts having been early inhabited and cultivated by the 
 colonists, the prairies have long since disappeared. Probably one-half of the 
 earth's surface in a state of nature consisted of prairies or barrens; much of it, like 
 our western prairies, was covered with a luxuriant coat of grass and herbage. The 
 steppes of Central Asia, the pampas and llanos of Buenos Ayres and Venezuela, 
 the savannahs of Louisiana and Texas, and the prairies of the Western States, 
 designate similar tracts of country. Mesopotamia, Syria, and Judea, had their 
 ancient prairies, on which the Patriarchs fed their flocks. Missionaries in Burmah, 
 and travellers in the interior of Africa and New Holland, mention the same descrip- 
 tion of country. The late Mungo Park describes the annual burning of the plains 
 of Manding, in Western Africa, in the same manner as the prairies of the Western 
 States ; and the practice is attended with the same results, the country being, in 
 short, covered with a luxuriant crop of young and tender grass, on which the cat- 
 tle feed with avidity. 
 
 Where the tough sward of the prairie is once formed, timber will not easily take 
 root; destroy this by the plough or by any other method, and it is soon converted 
 into forest land. There are large tracts of country in the older settlements where 
 
14 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 a number of years ago tlie farmers mowed their hay, that are now covered with a 
 tbrest of young timber of rapid growth. 
 
 As soon as tmiber or orchards are planted in the prairies, they grow with unex- 
 ampled luxuriance. A correspondent writes from Adams county, that "locust 
 trees planted, or rather sown, on prairie land near Quincy, attained in four years 
 a height of twenty-five feet, and tlieir trunks a diameter of from four to five inches ; 
 these grew in close crowded rows, affording a dense and arboury shade. In a few 
 instances where the same kind of trees had been planted out in a more open man- 
 ner, they grew in tlie same period to a thickness of six inches, and in from seven 
 to ten years from their planting, have been known to attain sufficient bulk to make 
 posts and rails." 
 
 Dr. Beck, in his Gazetteer of Missouri, published in 1823, describes the uplands 
 of St. Louis county as "generally prairie;" but almost all of that tract of country 
 tiius described is now covered with a young growth of fine thrifty timber, and it 
 would be difficult to find an acre of prairie m the county. This important change 
 has been produced by keeping the fires out of the prairies. 
 
 The first improvements are usually made on that part of the prairie vviiich 
 adjoins the timber; and thus we may see, at the commencement, a range of farms 
 circumscribing the entire prairie as with a belt. The burning of the prairies is 
 then stopped the wliole distance of the circuit in the neighbourhood of these farms, 
 to prevent injury to the fences and other improvements. This is done by plough- 
 ing two or three furrows all round the settlement. In a short time the timber 
 springs up spontaneously on all the parts not burnt, and the groves and forests 
 commence a gradual encroachment on the adjacent prairies ; by-and-by you will 
 see another tier of farms springing up on the outside of the first, and farther out in 
 the prairie ; and thus farm succeeds farm, as the timber grows up, until the entire 
 prairie is occupied. 
 
 The correspondent quoted above says : — " In breaking up prairie land, &c., for 
 cultivation, we usually plough with three or four yoke of oxen ; the shear plough 
 turning up about eighteen to twenty-four inches of turf at a furrow, in breadth, 
 and from three to four inches deep, the sod turning entirely over, so as to lay the 
 grass down, and it fits furrow to furrow smoothly enough to harrow and sow wheat. 
 It is usual to break it up in May, and drop corn along the edge of every fourth 
 row. This is called sod corn. No working or ploughing is necessary the first 
 season. The sod is left lying for the grass to decay ; and after the next winter's 
 frost, it crumbles and becomes light and friable. The sod corn does not make 
 more than half a crop, and is cut up, stalk and all together, and stacked up for 
 fodder for stock. The next year the crop of corn is most abundant, averaging 50 
 bushels per acre ; well cultivated wheat, 25 to 30 bushels ; rye, 25 to 35 ; and oats, 
 from 40 to 60 bushels per acre. Potatoes (Irish), hay (timothy), and all the dif- 
 ferent garden vegetables yet tried, yield most abundantly. A man here can tend 
 double the quantity of corn that he can in newly settled timbered countries, there 
 being no stumps to obstruct the plough or hoe. 
 
 " The cost of breaking up an acre of prairie is from one dollar and fifty cents to 
 two dollars ; fencing, say forty acres, eight rails high, stake and rider, 6000 rails 
 and stakes, $100; cabin, $20; say, forty acre field broke up and fenced, and cabin, 
 $200, cost of the land $50; total, $250: then worth, in my opinion, $500. Timber, 
 it is feared, will be scarce ; but I think differently. No one has yet felt the want 
 of it; nor will they, because it grows so fast, and also because the quantity at pre- 
 sent is sufficient for twenty million acres of prairie, being the estimated quantity 
 of good prairie land in this state. The prairies are generally from one to six miles 
 in width ; of course, about three miles is the farthest distance from timber, and the 
 prairie constitutes tlie finest natural road possible to haul on. The settlements are 
 at present chiefly confined to the margins of the timber and prairie. 
 
 " The prairie lands are undoubtedly worth from $10 to $15 per acre more for 
 farming than those that are timbered, not only because they are richer, but because 
 it would take at least that sum per acre to put the timbered lands of Ohio and 
 Indiana in the same advanced state for cultivation." 
 
 The prairies are the highest as well as the, most level land, and the roads gene- 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 15 
 
 rally pass through the middle of them, from whence there is an easy slope on eacli 
 side, at first barely sufficient to drain the waters towards the sides of the prairies, 
 or to the nearest point of timber. Here all around you, in the proper season, may 
 be seen the rich luxuriant grass, from two to three feet high, suitable for hay, and 
 mowed by the farmers for that purpose. In the midst of the prairie, the houses 
 and fields of the settlers are seen diminished like a picture along the skirts and 
 points of the forest. 
 
 But few have as yet settled out in the middle of the prairie, unless where the 
 road crosses, on account of the distance from timber to build fence, &c. Those 
 who have done so have invariably found it to their interest; and the practice will 
 no doubt in a short time become general, until the whole of the extensive prairies 
 of Illinois will be covered with valuable and productive farms. The middle of the 
 prairie is not only the highest and most level, but is greatly the most fertile land. 
 As the surface descends towards the timber, it has an increased unevenness and 
 ruggedness, and the greater the descent in perpendicular depth, the less fertile is the 
 soil. 
 
 Early in the mornings, when a mist is on the ground, the fog appears all around 
 the skirts of the timber in the lowest places. Hence it is not so healthful on the 
 edges of the prairie, or in the forest, as on the middle or highest part of the prairie. 
 Another advantage possessed by residents on the latter is the facility with which 
 excellent water is procured at a depth of from not more tlian 15 to 20 feet; 
 whereas, along the broken borders and spurs near the timber, the common depth 
 of the wells is from 40 to 50 feet. 
 
 The grass which covers the prairies in great abundance is tall, and coarse in 
 appearance. In the early stages of its growth, it resembles young wheat ; and in 
 this state furnishes a succulent and rich food for cattle. They have been seen, 
 when running in wheat-fields, where the young wheat covered the ground, to 
 choose the prairie-grass on the margins of the fields in preference to the wheat. 
 It is impossible to imagine better butter than is made while the grass is in this 
 stage. Cattle and horses, that have lived unsheltered and without fodder through 
 the winter and in the spring, scarcely able to mount a hillock through leanness 
 and weakness, when feeding on this grass, are transformed to a healthy and sleek 
 appearance, as if by a charm. 
 
 BARRENS. 
 
 A description of country called " barrens," or " oak openings," prevails to some 
 extent in Illinois, This term is used in the west to designate a species of land 
 which partakes, as it were, at once of the character of the forest and prairie. The 
 surface is generally dry and more uneven than the prairies, and is covered with 
 scattered oaks, interspersed at times with pfne, hickory, and other forest trees, 
 mostly of stunted and dwarfish size, but which spring from a rich vegetable soil, 
 admirably adapted to the purposes of agriculture. They rise from a grassy turf, 
 seldom incumbered with brushwood, but not unfrequently broken by jungles of rich 
 and gaudy flowering plants, and of dwarf sumach. Among the oak openings you 
 find some of the most lovely landscapes of the west, and travel for miles and miles 
 through varied park scenery of natural growth, with all the diversity of gently 
 swelling hill and dale ; — here trees grouped or standing single, and there arranged 
 in long avenues, as though by human hands, with strips of open meadow between. 
 Sometimes the openings are interspersed with numerous clear lakes, and with this 
 addition become enchantingly beautiful. But few of these reservoirs having appa- 
 rent inlet and outlet, they are fed by subterraneous springs, or the rains, and lose 
 their surplus waters by evaporation. 
 
 In the early settlements of Kentucky, much of the country below and south of 
 Green river presented a dwarfish and stunted growth of timber, scattered over the 
 surface, or collected in clumps, with hazle and shrubbery intermixed. This appear- 
 ance led the first explorers to the inference that the soil itself must necessarily be 
 poor, to produce so scanty a growth of timber, and they gave the name of " barrens" 
 to the whole tract of country. Long since it has been ascertained that this descrip- 
 
16 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 tion of land is amongst the most productive soil in the state. The term " barren" 
 has since received a very extensive application throughout the west. 
 
 Wherever timber barely sufficient tor present purposes can be found, a person 
 need not hesitate to settle in the barrens. These tracts are almost invariably 
 healthful ; they possess a greater abundance of pure springs of water, and the soil 
 is better adapted for all kinds of produce, and all descriptions of seasons, wet and 
 dry, than the deeper and richer mould of the bottoms and prairies. 
 
 When the fires are stopped, these barrens produce timber, at a rate of which no 
 northern emigrant can have any just conception. When timber begins to grow 
 on the prairies, they assume the character of barrens, first hazel, and other shrubs, 
 and finally a thicket of young timber covers the surface. 
 
 FOREST OR TIMBERED LAND. 
 
 In general, Illinois is abundantly supplied with timber, and were it equally dis- 
 tributed through the state there would be no part wanting. The apparent scarcity 
 of timber where the prairie predominates, is not so great an obstacle to the settle- 
 ment as has been supposed. For many of the purposes to which timber is applied, 
 substitutes are found. The rapidity with which tlie young growth pushes itself 
 forward, without a single effort on the part of man to accelerate it, and the readi- 
 ness with which the prairie becomes converted into thickets, and then into a forest 
 of young timber, shows that, in another generation, timber will not be wanting in 
 any part of Illinois. 
 
 The growth of the bottom lands consists of black walnut, ash of several species, 
 hackberry elm (white, red and slippery), sugar-maple, honey-locust, buck-eye, 
 catalpa sycamore, cottonwood, pecan, hickory, mulberry ; several oaks — as, over- 
 cup, burr-oak, swamp or water oak, white, red, or Spanish oak ; and of the shrub- 
 bery are red-bud, papaw, grape-vine, dogwood, spice-bush, hazel, greenbrier, &-c. 
 Along the margin of the streams the sycamore and cottonwood often predominate, 
 and attain to an amazing size. The cottonwood is of rapid growth, a light, white 
 wood, sometimes used for rails, shingles, and scantlings; not lasting, and of no 
 great value. Its dry, light wood is much used in steamboats. It forms the chief 
 proportion of the drift wood that floats down the rivers, and is frequently converted 
 into planters, snags, and sav\'yers. The sycamore is the buttonwood of New Eng- 
 land, is frequently hollow, and in that state procured by the farmers, cut at suitable 
 lengths, cleaned out, and used as depositories for grain. They answer the pur- 
 pose of large casks. The size of the cavity of some of these trees appears in- 
 credible in the ears of a stranger to the luxuriant growth of the west. To say 
 that twenty or thirty men could be comfortably lodged in one, would seem a mon- 
 strous fiction to a New Englander, but to those accustomed to this species of tree 
 on the bottoms, it is nothing marvellous. 
 
 The uplands are covered with various species of oak, amongst which is the post- 
 oak, a valuable and lasting timber for posts ; white oak, black oak of several varie- 
 ties, and the black jack, a dwarfish gnarled looking tree, good for nothing but fuel, 
 for which it is equal to any tree we have: of hickory, both the shagbark and 
 smoothbark, black walnut in some parts, white walnut or butternut, Lynn, cherry, 
 and many of the species produced in the bottoms. The black walnut is much 
 used for building materials, and cabinet work, and sustains a fine polish. The 
 different species of oaks, walnuts, hackberry, and occasionally hickory, are used 
 for fencing. 
 
 In some parts of the state the white and yellow poplar prevails. Beginning at 
 the Mississippi, a few miles above the mouth of the Muddy river, and extending a 
 line across the state to the mouth of the Little Wabash, leaves the poplar range 
 south, interspersed with occasional clumps of beach. Near the Ohio, on the low 
 creek bottoms, the cypress is found. No poplar exists on the eastern borders of 
 the state till you arrive at or near Palestine ; while on the opposite shore of the 
 Wabash, in Indiana, the poplar and beach predominate. Near Palestine, in Craw- 
 ford county, the poplar again commences, intermixed with beach and all the varie- 
 ties of timber, and extends northward further than has been explored. A spur of it 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 17 
 
 puts into the interior of the state, on the Little Wabash, above Maysville. Occa- 
 sional clumps of stunted cedar are to be seen on the cliffs that overhang the bot- 
 toms, but no pine, unless it exists in the wild regions west of Lake Micliigan. 
 
 Timber not only grows much more rapidly in tliis country than in the northen 
 states, but it decays sooner when put in buildings, fences, or is in any way ex- 
 posed to the weather. It is more porous, and will shrink and expand, as the 
 weather becomes wet or dry, to a much greater extent than the timber of New 
 England. This may be owing partly to the atmosphere, but it is unquestionably 
 owing in part to the quality of the timber. The fences require to be newly laid, and 
 one third of the rails provided anew, in a period of from seven to ten years. A 
 shingled roof requires replacing in about twelve years. This, however, may not 
 be a fair estimate, because most of the timber is prepared hastily, and in a green 
 state. Doubtless with proper care in the seasoning and in the preservation it 
 would last much longer. Timber is ordinarily required for four purposes: fencing, 
 building, fuel, and mechanical operations. Rails is almost the only article used 
 for fencing. In making a plantation in this mode, there is a great waste of tim- 
 ber; nor will a man with a moderate capital, and with the burden of an increasing 
 family, stop to make experiments. He must have fields enclosed, and takes the 
 quickest and cheapest method by cutting down the most convenient timber and 
 making rails. 
 
 The first buildings put up are cabins made of logs, slightly hewn on two sides, 
 and the corners notched together. They are made single or double with a space 
 between, according to the enterprize, ability, or taste of the owner; and the chim- 
 ney is built of sticks of wood plastered with mud or clay mortar. The next step 
 in advance is a log house. This is also made of logs more accurately hewn on 
 two sides than those of the cabin, with a framed or shingle roof, and a brick or 
 stone chimney ; all the out-houses are at first put up in the same manner. It is 
 perfectly obvious that this mode of building sweeps off vast quantities of timber, 
 that by a more judicious and economical plan would be saved for other purposes. 
 In a few years brick, and in some instances stone, will take the place of these rude 
 and misshapen piles of timber. This begins to take effect, to a considerable ex- 
 tent, in tiiose counties where the people have obtained the means, for brick and 
 frame houses are fast erecting. The substratum of the soil in any place is excel- 
 lent for brick, and in many of the bluffs inexhaustible quantities of limestone exist. 
 The waste of timber for buildings then will be greatly lessened, as the country 
 advances in improvement, population, and wealth. 
 
 As in all countries where the population have been accustomed to burn excessive 
 quantities of wood before they emigrate, and where they live in cold and open 
 cabins, there is a great waste of timber for fuel. This will be remedied as the 
 people obtain close and comfortable dwellings, and make use of proper economy in 
 this article. In almost every direction through the country tiiere are inexhaustible 
 stores of stone-coal near the surface of the eartli. There is fuel for domestic pur- 
 poses and for steam-engines, without limits. 
 
 It will be perceived that Illinois does not labour under as great inconveniences 
 for timber, as many have supposed. If provision is made for the first fifty years, 
 future supplies will be abundant. Timber may be artificially produced with little 
 trouble or expense, and to an indefinite extent. The black locust, a native growth 
 of Ohio and Kentucky, may be raised from the seed with far less labour than a 
 nursery of apple-trees ; and as it is of very rapid growth, and a valuable and last- 
 ing timber for fencing, buildings, and boats, it must claim the attention of farmers. 
 Already it forms one of the cleanliest and most beautiful shades, and when in 
 blossom presents a rich prospect, and a most delicious fragrance. 
 
 BOTTOM LANDS, OR ALLUVION. 
 
 The term "bottom" is used throughout the west to denote the alluvial soil on 
 the margin of rivers, usually called " intervals" in the eastern states. Portions of 
 this description of land are flowed, for a longer or shorter period, when the rivers 
 are full. Probably one tenth of the bottom lands are of this description ; for though 
 
 ^ 2* 
 
18 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 the water may not stand for any length, of time, it prevents settlement and culti- 
 vation, though it does not interrupt the growth of timber and vegetation. These 
 tracts are on the bottoms of the Wabash, Ohio, Mississippi, Illinois, and all the in- 
 terior rivers. 
 
 When the rivers rise above their ordinary height, the waters of the smaller 
 streams which are backed up by the freshets of the former, break over their banks, 
 and cover all the low grounds. Here they stand for a few days, or for many weeks, 
 especially towards the bluffs ; for it is a striking fact in the geology of the western 
 country, that all the river bottoms are higher on the margins of the streams than 
 at some distance back. Whenever increase of population shall create a demand 
 for this species of soil, the most of it can be reclaimed at comparatively small ex- 
 pense. Its fertility will be inexhaustible, and if the waters from the rivers could 
 be shut out by dykes or levees, the soil would be perfectly dry. Most of the small 
 lakes on the American Bottom disappear in the summer, and leave a deposit of 
 vegetable matter undergoing decomposition, or a luxuriant coat of weeds and grass. 
 
 As the prairies mostly lie between the streams that drain the country, the inte- 
 rior of the large ones is usually level. Here are formed small ponds and lakes 
 after the winter and spring rains, which remain to be drawn otf by evaporation, or 
 absorbed by the soil. Hence the middle of the large level prairies are wet, and 
 for several weeks portions of them are covered with water. To remedy this in- 
 convenience completely, and render all this portion of soil dry and productive, only 
 requires a ditch or drain of two or three feet deep to be cut into the nearest ravine. 
 In many instances, a single furrow with the plough would drain many acres. At 
 present this species of inundated land offers no inconvenience to the people, except 
 in the production of miasm, and even that, perhaps, becomes too much diluted with 
 the atmosphere to produce mischief before it reaches the settlements on the bor- 
 ders of the prairie. Hence the inference is correct that the inundated lands pre- 
 sent fewer obstacles to the settlement and growth of the country, and can be re- 
 claimed at much less expense, than the swamps and salt marshes of the Atlantic 
 states. 
 
 The surface of the alluvial bottoms is not entirely level. In some places it re- 
 sembles alternate waves of the ocean, and looks as though the waters had left their 
 deposit in ridges, and retired. The portion of bottom land capable of present cul- 
 tivation, and on which the waters never stand, if, at any extreme freshet, it is cov- 
 ered, is a soil of exhaustless fertility ; a soil that for ages past has been gradually 
 deposited by the annual floods. Its average depth on the American Bottom is from 
 twenty to twenty-five feet. Logs of wood, and other indications, are found at 
 that depth. The soil dug from wells on these bottoms, produces luxuriantly the 
 first year. 
 
 The most extensive and fertile tract, of this description of soil, in this state, is 
 the American Bottom, a name it received when it constituted the western boundary 
 of the United States, and which it has retained ever since. It commences at the 
 confluence of the Kaskaskia river with the Mississippi, and extends northwardly to 
 the mouth of the Missouri ; being bounded on the east by a chain of bluffs, which 
 in some places are sandy and in others rocky, and which vary from 50 to 200 feet 
 in height. This bottom is about 80 miles in length, and comprises an area of 
 about feO square miles, or 288,000 square acres. On the margin of the river is a 
 strip of heavy timber, with a rank undergrowth : tliis extends from a half to two 
 miles in width, and from thence to the bluffs is generally prairie. No soil can ex- 
 ceed this in fertility, many parts of it having been under cultivation for more than 
 a century without the least apparent deterioration. 
 
 The only objection that can be offered to this tract, is its unhealthiness. This 
 arises from the circumstance of the lands directly on the margin of the river being 
 higher than those under the bluffs where the water, after leaving the former, sub- 
 sides, and forms ponds and lagoons, which during the summer stagnate and throw 
 oflT noxious effluvia. These, however, might at a trifling expense be drained by 
 lateral canals communicating with the rivers. 
 
 The first settlement of this state was commenced upon the tract of land above 
 described, and its uncommon fertility gave emigrants a favourable idea of the 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 19 
 
 whole country. Cultivation has no doubt rendered this tract more salubrious than 
 formerly : and the extension of agriculture, together with the construction of 
 drains and canals, will make it one of the mast eligible in the States. The old 
 inhabitants advise the emigrants not to plant corn in the immediate vicinity of 
 their dwellings, as its exuberant foliage prevents the sun from dispelling the dele- 
 terious vapours. 
 
 Coal exists in abundance on this alluvion, and the bluffs which bound it. It has 
 been mined to some extent for several years past, and carried to St. Louis. The 
 quantity hauled there in wagons in 1836 amounted to about 300,000 bushels. A 
 rail-road is now making from the coal-mines to the Mississippi river opposite St. 
 Louis, for the purpose of expediting the transportation of the mineral to that city. 
 At the mine a new town is about to be laid out, called Pittsburg. Besides the 
 American Bottom, there are other tracts which resemble it in its general character, 
 but which are much less extensive. 
 
 It would lead to a particularity beyond the limits of this sketch, to go into a de- 
 tailed description of all the bodies of excellent land in Illinois. For not only here, 
 but all over the Western Country, the lands seem to be distributed in bodies, either 
 of rich or sterile, level or broken lands. The Military Bounty Tract, the country 
 on Rock river, the Sangamon country, &c., are all familiarly spoken of for their 
 beauty and fertility, and have each their advocates, who, swayed by various predi- 
 lections, extol the advantages of that section to which they are attached. On the 
 Illinois, the Kaska-skia, the Fox river, on the Kankakee, and the Embarras, between 
 the Great and Little Wabash, and on all the considerable streams of this state, 
 there are large bodies of first-rate lands. On the Grand Prairie, the Mound Prai- 
 rie, the prairie upon which the Marine Settlement is located, and that occupied by 
 the society of Christians from New England, are exceedingly rich tracts. The 
 following description of the Military Bounty Lands, the Rock river country, and 
 the region on the Sangamon river, will give some idea of the situation, natural fea- 
 tures, productions, capacities for settlements, &.c., of each district. 
 
 MILITARY BOUNTY TRACT. 
 
 The region generally denominated the Military Bounty Tract, was surveyed 
 during the years 1815 and 1816, and the greater part subsequently appropriated in 
 bounties to the soldiers of the regular army, who served in the late war between 
 the United States and Great Britain. It is situated between the rivers Mississippi 
 and Illinois, and extends from their junction due north by a meridian line, denomi- 
 nated the fourth principal meridian, 169 miles, presenting an irregular curvilinear 
 triangle, the acute angle of which is at the junction of these two rivers. From 
 this point the two rivers diverge, so as to make a distance of 90 miles between the 
 extreme points of the northern boundary. Half-way between the extremes, the 
 width is 64 miles. The base line running due east and west, and commencing 
 seven miles above Quincy on the Mississippi, and terminating at the Illinois, about 
 four miles below Beardstown, intersects the fourth principal meridian at right 
 angles 73 miles above the junction of the Mississippi and Illinois rivers, and is 52 
 miles long. The whole tract, according to the public surveys, contains 207 entire 
 townships, of six miles square, and 61 fractional townships, containing together 
 •5,360,000 acres, of which 3,500,000 have been appropriated in military bounties. 
 The residue consists partly of fractional sections, bordering on the rivers, partly of 
 fractional quarter-sections, bordering on the township lines, containing more or less 
 than 160 acres, and partly of lands that were returned by the public surveyors as 
 unfit for cultivation ; but there are also large reservations not coming within the 
 above exception, being the overplus of lands after satisfying the military claims, 
 subject to entry and purchase as other congress lands. 
 
 This tract of country lies between 38° 54', and 41° 40' of north latitude, and 13" 
 west longitude from Washington City, and is bounded on the north-west for 2.55 
 miles by the Mississippi river, and for about the same distance on the south-east by 
 the Illinois. Thus do these two great rivers, in their diverging course, with Rock 
 river approximating from the north, form a spacious peninsula, furnishing a border ^ 
 
20 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 to the bounty lands by a sheet of navigable waters for steamboats more than 5(.)0 
 miles in extent, leaving no part of the tract more than 45 miles, and the greater 
 part not exceeding 20 miles from steamboat navigation. 
 
 The water communication now about to be completed between the Mississippi 
 and the lakes, by means of the Illinois and Chicago canal, must eventually greatly 
 increase the value of the bounty lands, by affording a choice of markets for their 
 products, either at Chicago, Detroit, Buffalo, New-York, Montreal, or Quebec, by 
 way of the Illinois canal and the lakes, or by the natural channels of the rivers at 
 St. Louis and New-Orleans. 
 
 In the interior of the tract, and traversing it in various directions, are several 
 rivers and creeks of less consequence, in a commercial point of view, than those 
 great water-courses which form its boundary lines, but nevertheless of great utility 
 in other respects to the settlements in their vicinity. Of these, Spoon, Henderson, 
 Edwards, and Pope's rivers, and Crooked, Kickapoo or Red Bud, Copperas, Otter, 
 M'Kee's, M'Craney's, Hadley's, Mill, and Bear creeks, are the most considerable. 
 There are also many other smaller streams, generally tributaries to those already 
 mentioned, affording sufficient power for mills and other machinery. 
 
 Considerable bodies of timber are to be found on the margins of all these streams, 
 with but few exceptions, the lands of which are generally broken, and the soil not 
 so productive as that of the adjacent prairies. And it may be remarked in general, 
 in relation to the bluffs of the Mississippi and Illinois, as well as those upon the 
 smaller rivers, that they exhibit a surface too rough to be cultivated, and a soil too 
 thin for successful tillage. The hills, or bluffs as they are called in this country, 
 which are everywhere to be seen on the margins of the Mississippi and Illinois 
 rivers, are generally neither very high nor precipitous, and very rarely approach 
 the water's edge. The bottoms between the river and bluffs- are generally alluvial, 
 and expand from one to five miles in width. Two-thirds of these bottom lands are 
 subject to occasional inundation from high water ; and when this happens, the river 
 is seen gradually to rise for several successive days, until the channel within the 
 banks is no longer capable of containing the immense accumulation of waters from 
 above, at which time they burst over the banks in all directions, extending them- 
 selves from bluff to bluff in all the terrific grandeur of a mighty river. Again 
 they gradually recede, until they are confined within the ordinary channel. When 
 these inundations occur as late as the months of June and July, a sickly season, 
 arising from the noxious vapours engendered by a decay of vegetation, may be ex- 
 pected in these and contiguous parts of the country ; but if early, and the bottoms 
 become dry before the hot season commences, no difference in the health of the 
 inhabitants is expected to ensue on that account. 
 
 Of the military tract, about two-thirds may be set down as prairie land, and the 
 remaining one-third as timber land. The detached groves, or those which are 
 found occasionally as islands in the prairies, and those at the heads or sources of 
 the streams, generally produce the finest timber, with a soil mostly of good quality, 
 and not unfrequently very rich. The soil on the prairies is good, and a large por- 
 tion of it may be considered as first-rate, having either a black vegetable mould, 
 or a dark sandy loam, from 15 to 30 inches deep, generally bedded on a stiff yellow 
 clay. Many of the prairies are of convenient dimensions for farming operations, 
 others too large at present, and again we find many only large enough for a single 
 farm. 
 
 The emigrant, in travelling over this delightful region in the spring and summer 
 months, will generally see timber either before him or to the right or left, within 
 a few miles, but he will occasionally, after descending one of our beautiful slopes 
 to the verdant valley beneath, through which the gentle rivulet is meandering its 
 course with its flowery border, get as it were out of the sight of land, while his 
 vision is bounded only by the blue horizon above, and not a tree can be discovered 
 as far as the eye can reach. Again, when he approaches the summit of the oppo- 
 site slope, his vision is relieved with the green forests upon his right and left, and 
 a cluster of beautiful island groves immediately in the advance, with their varied 
 shrubbery in full bloom, scattering its fragrance for many a mile around : the prai- 
 rie, in the mean time, being covered with a smooth green coat of grass, and innu- 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 21 
 
 merable flowers of every variety and hue, which blossom and decay in succession, 
 from tlic first opening of spring until the severe frosts of winter. 
 
 The bounty lands extend from north to south over about two and a half degrees 
 of latitude, the medium of which exceeds forty degrees north, and afford a climate 
 not uncongenial to the constitution of men from the northern and middle states. 
 The climate seems also to be well adapted to the constitution of emigrants from 
 Kentucky, Tennessee, and the Carolinas, who, in the general, enjoy as good health 
 as those from the more northern states. It is a fact, however, which ought not to 
 be disguised, that a large portion of the lands on the margins of the Mississippi and 
 Illinois rivers, as well as those upon the banks of the smaller streams, including 
 such also as border upon the large, flat, wet prairies, may be reckoned among the 
 situations most unfavourable to health. The stagnant waters which sometimes 
 remain atler the overflowings of tliese rivers, not unfrequently produce pestilential 
 vapours, proceeding from putrescent vegetable substances, which very orten engen- 
 der malignant fevers and agues, and prove destructive to the health and vigour of 
 the newly settled emigrant and his family. Habitations should, therefore, at the 
 commencement of a settlement be as far removed as convenient, from stagnant 
 waters, and low, rich, alluvial grounds, which are thickly shaded by forest trees, 
 and located on more open and elevated ground, where air and water can be enjoyed 
 in their native purity. Lands of this description, which, in a state of nature, prove 
 most injurious to health, when drained, opened to the sun, and cleared of the trees 
 and rank weeds, which generally grow upon them, have orten become salubrious 
 places of habitation. But the new comer should be aware before he is acclimated, 
 that it is a dangerous experiment to attempt the improvement. But of this quality, 
 there is a small part only of the whole tract, most of the residue furnishing situa- 
 tions as healthful as any part of the Western Country, old Kentucky not excepted. 
 
 Taking all the Bounty Tract together, and there is no region of country in the 
 west more eligibly situated for all the purposes of agriculture and commerce. The 
 lands everywhere, with but few exceptions, are of the best quality, and in a man- 
 ner surrounded by a sheet of navigable waters; and the country exhibits a climate 
 of great variety for the space occupied ; whereby its productions are varied, and 
 the means of traffic greatly increased and facilitated. Lands of excellent quality 
 may yet be had at the government price of $1.25 per acre, in desirable parts of the 
 country, so that means of wealth, or at least of a comfortable competence, are still 
 within the reach of the poor as well as the opulent. What motives of advance- 
 ment are here held out to the industrious and skilful cultivator of the soil — what 
 prospects of wealth to the industrious mechanic and enterprizing merchant — what 
 a wide field of speculation is not in fact here presented to the view of the whole 
 people of the west ! 
 
 In this region there are but few springs ; but water may be plentifully obtained 
 anywhere on the smooth prairies, by digging from fifteen to forty feet belov^ the 
 surface. The well water is pure and salutary, and generally preferred to the 
 spring water. The surface of the ground everywhere in this country is remarka- 
 bly free from stones, except on the rivers, creeks, and branches, in which many 
 good quarries are found both of lime and sandstone. Witli the exception of stone- 
 coal, there are no mines on the Military Tract. Some specimens of iron, lead, 
 and copper ore have occasionally been picked up, but not in sufficient quantities to 
 justify the belief that any discoveries will be made worthy of pursuit. 
 
 The agricultural productions of this part of Illinois are Indian corn, wheat, rye, 
 oats, barley, potatoes, hemp, flax, &c. The tame grasses, such as timothy, red 
 clover, red top or herd's grass, and blue grass, are also now cultivated to some 
 extent, and so far succeed well. The principal articles produced for exportation 
 consist of horses, beef cattle, milch cows, live hogs, barrelled beef and pork, bacon, 
 lard, hides, butter, Indian corn, wheat, and flour. Some of the backwoodsmen, 
 also, still continue to carry on a considerable traffic with the merchants, in deer- 
 skins and furs, such as otter, muskrat, and raccoon, and in honey and beeswax. 
 Some farmers have been frequently known to make more money in this way, than 
 from the product of their farms. 
 
 The disposition of so much of this fine country for military rewards, has very 
 
22 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 much retarded its settlement. Most of the titles have long since departed from the 
 soldiers for whose benefit the donations were made. Many thousand quarter sec- 
 tions have been sold by the state for taxes, and are past redemption. Much of it 
 is in the hands of non-residents, who hold it at prices too exorbitant to command 
 sale. Home have doubted the legality of these sales at auction for taxes; but able 
 lawyers, and those who have investigated tlie business, have expressed the opinion 
 that "tax titles" are valid. Within the last two years the Military Tract has 
 received a great accession to its population. A large quantity of these military 
 lauds are now owned by a company, who have a land-office opened at Quincy, and 
 offer tracts at from three to ten dollars per acre. About three-fifths of the quarter 
 sections have been appropriated as military bounties. The remainder is to be dis- 
 posed of in the same manner as other public lands. South of the base line, which 
 passes across the tract through Schuyler and Adams counties, the public lands 
 have been offered for sale. North of that line there is much excellent land yet 
 for sale. 
 
 A scientific gentleman, who has recently examined the central parts of the 
 Military Bounty Tract, has given the following as the geological structure of the 
 upland prairies in that region. That the same general structure prevails through- 
 out tlie entire peninsula (between the Illinois and Mississippi rivers), and all the 
 central and northern parts of the state, is most probable. 1st. Vegetable mould, 
 formed by the decomposition of grass ujwn the original clay soil, 8 to 30 inches: 
 2d. Pure yellow clay, 3 to 8 feet: 3d. Gravelly clay, mixed with pebbles, 4 to 
 10 feet: 4th. Limestone rock, 2 to 12 feet: 5th. Shale, covering a stratum of 
 bituminous coal generally 4 to 5 feet thick: 6th. Soapstone: then sandstone. 
 The bed of limestone seems to be universal in tliis region, it having been disco- 
 vered in all the wells that have been dug, and in all the banks of water-courses of 
 any magnitude. 
 
 An opinion is entertained by some persons at the east, that the prairies here are 
 of a light, spongy nature, without solidity or firmness. The notion has probably 
 been gathered from the boggy prairies of Oiiio. But no land of this sort, we are 
 assured, is to be found in tiie Military Tract, if we except the marshes upon the 
 margins of rivers. The substratum being clay, the surface is as firm and dry as 
 any of the limestone lands of Pennsylvania or Maryland, and in many respects is 
 of a similar character to the best in Frederick county, in the latter state. 
 
 ROCK RIVER COUNTRY. 
 
 That portion of Illinois, situated in the northern part of the state, watered by 
 Rock river and its branches, is known by the appellation of the Rock River Country. 
 It is a fertile agricultural region, combining all the advantages of a rich and fruit- 
 ful soil, a healthy and temperate climate, a fine navigable river, and clear perennial 
 streams, affording excellent mill-seats, together with many of the most useful and 
 important minerals. 
 
 llock river rises in Wisconsin Territory, about midway between Lake Michigan 
 and the Wisconsin river. Its course in Illinois is nearly 180 miles in extent. It 
 receives its most important tributary, the Pekatonica, from the lead-mine region 
 of Wisconsin Territory, a few miles below tiie northern boundary of the state. 
 The Rock River Country may be considered as embracing not only the parts which 
 border immediately upon that stream, but all those portions of the surrounding ter- 
 ritory that may contribute directly to the developement and employment of the 
 resources of the Rock river valley. 
 
 In til is view may be included the mineral wealth and agricultural advantages of 
 the Pekatonica and its branches, the products of which must eventually find their 
 way to market on the bosom of Rock river; but also the mineral region around 
 Galena and Dubuque, which will, sooner or later, be connected by close links of 
 interest and necessity witii the inexhaustible beds of coal and general manufac- 
 turing advantages in the neighbourhood of the mouth of Rock river. Under the 
 same general head we may also include the fine agricultural country on the west 
 bank of the Mississippi, extending from the Indian reservation on the Iowa to the 
 
TPIE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 33 
 
 waters of the Wabepisipimccon, which will look to the cast bank of the Mississippi 
 and the town located near the mouth of Rock river for its market. 
 
 The bottom-lands of those streams, most usually about a mile and a half wide, 
 cannot be surpassed in fertility. Besides other causes which have combined for 
 centuries to produce the same result, the wash of the bluffs enriches the plain 
 below by its deposit, to such an extent that the depth of soil in places is almost 
 incredible. Like the great American Bottom below the mouth of the Illinois river, 
 which has been cultivated for more than a hundred years, the fertility of most of 
 the Rock river and Upper Mississippi bottoms is indestructible. On such a soil, 
 under proper cultivation, 100 bushels of corn and 40 bushels of wheat to the acre 
 could be raised with facility. With the most careless kind of culture, where the 
 tiirmers do not think of applying the hoe after planting, and rim the plough tlirough 
 but twice, the average corn crop is about 50 or GO bushels per acre. The soil on 
 tiie brow of the bluffs, as might be expected from the unceasing washing of ages, is 
 ihin and unproductive ; but when you ascend to the elevated table-land — which is 
 generally characteristic of the bluff's al'tcr you leave the breaks, gullies formed by 
 springs and drains on the edge of the bluffs, — you will find, most usually, a soil of 
 tiie richest kmd — high and dry, and tanned, in the warmest days of sunnner, by 
 breezes of the most refreshing character. These breezes, however, are converted 
 into pretty cold winds in winter. 
 
 The greatest objection made to the Rock river country is the alleged scarcity of 
 timber. What is termed the " grand prairie," commencing in the lower part of 
 Illinois and reaching to Lake Superior, touches Rock river in several places, and 
 some of its wide-stretching arms partially separated from the parent prairie by 
 occasional groves, cross that stream. These extensive meadows form an obstacle 
 at this time to the dense settlement of those portions where the predominance of 
 prairie over timber is too great; but the time will come, and the day is not far dis- 
 tant, when emigrants will rush to the large prairies with almost as much eagerness 
 as tliey now avoid them. 
 
 But without reference to the prospective settlement of the prairies, the existence 
 of these large meadows in the neighbourhood can form no reasonable objection to 
 the settlement of such portions as are timbered. Of tliesc there are thousands of 
 situations in the Rock river country, where plenty of timber in proximity to prairies 
 will give settlers the advantages of timber and prairie united; and if the argument 
 be a good one that the large prairies cannot be settled without recourse to the 
 woodlands, that very tact should form a strong inducement for the early settlement 
 of the more favoured portions. But reflecting and experienced men say that no 
 apprehensions need be felt about the supply of timber for the wants of the country, 
 and that so far as Rock Island county is concerned, it has a greater proportion of 
 timber than the counties in its vicinity. 
 
 The portion of country south and south-east of Rock river is comparatively 
 deficient in timber, except where the waters of Green river, Edwards, and Hen- 
 derson, carry belts of it along their various windings. Up Rock river the timber 
 is in many places of the finest character, and convenient of access to the river, 
 down which it could be rafted with ease. 
 
 The bluff" which forms the principal portion of the strip of land between Rock 
 river and the Mississippi, from Albany in Whiteside county down to near the 
 mouth of the former stream, a distance of 35 miles, is, with one or two slight ex- 
 ceptions, covered plentifully with good timber. This woodland, although broken 
 in many places by gullies which carry oft' water to the prairie bottoms, is in gene- 
 ral excellent wheat land. 
 
 On the west bank of the Mississippi, for about ten miles above Rock Island, and 
 twenty or thirty below, the bluff" falls gently into bottoms of about a mile wide — 
 frequently intersected with spurs and groves of timber; and altogether forming a 
 succession of farm-sites as beautiful as the eye ever saw or the heart could desire. 
 Immediately back of these sloping bottoms, the bluflf is covered with the dense 
 foliage of stately timber, forming a rich bordering for the picture of scenic loveli- 
 ness below. This skirt of timber varies from one to two miles in width. Back of 
 it, tiie timber is scattered into little patches of foliage, dotting the interminable 
 
24 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 prairies as they sweep off in beautiful and ocean-like undulations, westward to the 
 waters of the Iowa. The timber of this region comprises the usual variety of the 
 latitude— white and black oak, ash, hickory, elm, lynn, cherry, white and black 
 walnut, maple, sugar tree, &c. In provision lor building materials, nature has 
 been bountiful to the Rock River Country. Clay for brick, limestone of the finest 
 quality, and freestone, can be found in almost any neighbourhood. 
 
 The products of this region are the same as those of the adjoining districts, and 
 are raised with the same facility as in the most favoured parts of the state. A cor- 
 respondent writes, " I have not seen in any place this season, crops of wheat, corn, 
 and oats to surpass, and but few to equal, what I saw near Stephenson, the seat of 
 justice of Rock Island county. The size to which esculent roots have grown there 
 is almost incredible." 
 
 Besides the agricultural advantages of this region of country, it must for ever be 
 connected with, and interested in the mineral regions above it. The extent of the 
 lead region will perhaps never be determined. The mines are considered inex- 
 haustible, and each succeeding year developes new treasures, inviting the hand of 
 enterprize, and exciting the eager appetite of discovery. 
 
 The mines mostly wrought at this time, are in the vicinity of Dubuque, Galena, 
 and Mineral Point on the Pekatonica. Taking Rock river on one side of the Mis- 
 sissippi, and the Iowa on the other, for the southern limits of the mineral region 
 (although it is believed to extend much farther south), north of these streams, for 
 perhaps hundreds of miles west, reaching to Lake Michigan on the east, and a 
 thousand miles to the north until you reach the ocean-like shores and pure waters 
 of Lake Superior, you have an immense territory, already known to possess mines of 
 lead, iron, copper, saltpetre, &.C., the value of which will ever be beyond calculation. 
 
 Lead and copper ore have been found upon other tributaries of Rock river 
 besides the Pekatonica. Upon the latter, mines of the richest character are 
 wrought with industry and success. Copper ore has been raised already from the 
 mines on the Pekatonica, to the extent of about 200,000 pounds. Lead has been 
 found by the Indians in several places west of the Mississippi, not far from Rock 
 Island. Near the Wabepisipimecon, which empties into the Mississippi about 30 
 miles above that island, copper and iron ore, saltpetre, epsom salts, and a fine spe- 
 cies of variegated alabaster, have lately been found. On the shores of Lake Pepin, 
 up the Mississippi, near tlie Falls of St. Anthony, iron ore exists in such masses 
 that the lake may almost literally be called "iron-bound.''^ Iron ore and stone-coal 
 are found in several places along the Upper Rapids of the Mississippi. The latter 
 article, of a good quality, pervades the Rock river blufts extensively, and will, 
 before long, become a very important article of trade with the lead-mines, where 
 the country is destitute of it. The recent improvement in smelting furnaces, and 
 the contemplated introduction of steam-engines to drain the mines on the plan of 
 the miners of Cornwall, England, which must take place betbre long, will cause 
 the consumption of an immense quantity of stone-coal. They now send to St. 
 Louis for it, and freight it up stream 500 miles. It will not be many years before 
 the business of smelting will be done near the mouth of Rock river for nearly all 
 the lead regions above, from the circumstance that the mineral can be much easier 
 floated down to the fuel, than the fuel can be freighted up to the mineral. This 
 will throw into the lately located seat of justice of Rock Island county an immense 
 trade, which is not generally looked upon as being alienable from the immediate 
 neighbourhood of the mines. 
 
 The time will come when the facility with which lead can be obtained, will 
 cause it indirectly to enter into the consumption of the country in a thousand differ- 
 ent shapes now not thougiit of; and the demand becoming comparatively limitless, 
 will cause every hill and valley where there are signs of "mineral" to be explored; 
 and infinite developements of the resources of the country, now entering only into 
 the dreams of the visionary, will greet the acute eye of enterprize. When we 
 reflect that for a century and a half the gold-mines of the southern states lay hid- 
 den from a comparatively dense population, it should rather be a matter of astonish- 
 ment that so much has already been discovered by the sparse settlements of the 
 lead region. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 25 
 
 There can be no doubt of this region being- eminently healthy. The country is 
 supplied bountifully with water from good springs, and the air is second only to 
 mountain air in purity. It is even thought that the neighbourhood of Rock Island 
 will one day be the resort of rich invalids, and the man of leisure from the south, 
 on account of its double charm of salubrity of atmosphere, and pictu?esqueness of 
 scenery. The e.\istence of a copious white sulphur spring near Rock Island, of 
 medical virtues equal perhaps to the waters of any of the celebrated springs in the 
 United States, gives strength to the idea. 
 
 The navigation of Rock river is obstructed principally by the rapids, 3^ miles 
 from its mouth ; upon which, however, there is never less than about 18 inches 
 water, which is more than the Ohio river affords at its lowest stages, in places. 
 Several enterprizing individuals have it in contemplation to build a steamboat ex- 
 pressly for navigating Rock river, which may be done for a considerable portion ot 
 the year. 
 
 A circumstance which the recent survey and settlement of the country on the 
 Upper Rock river has but lately brought to view, may and will, if taken advantage 
 of, no doubt, h.ave an important bearing on the prosperity of the Rock River Country. 
 It is ascertained that the distance from tiie city of Milwaukee on Lake Michigan 
 to the navigable waters of Rock river, is only about 50 miles, and over a country 
 well calculated for making either a canal or a rail-road. The improvement of this 
 region by the construction of one or both of the above public works would open a 
 medium of communication from the Mississippi to the Lakes, and afford an outlet to 
 the northern markets that would be of incalculable benefit to the upper part of 
 Illinois, and add another link to the mighty chain that is binding together the ex- 
 tremities of our widely-extended republic. 
 
 With the present possession and prospective control of advantages like all these, 
 it does not require sanguine calculations to determine the future condition of this 
 country. Easy access to market will always insure to the farmer the rewards of 
 industry ; and a rich agricultural community ever promotes the steadiest and purest 
 prosperity to all other classes. Mechanics are always demanded by the wants of 
 an improving country ; and the lack of competition in a new country, guaranties 
 to such as emigrate the best of prices and the best of pay. 
 
 The boundless resources of the great west spread out their harvest for the sickle 
 of the young and the enterprizing. " The harvest is plenty, but the labourers 
 few." He that would carve out his own fortune at the expense of temporary sac- 
 rifices, in preference to frittering away his existence in the slavish occupancy of 
 an overstrained competition, should turn his eyes and his footsteps westward. 
 
 SANGAMON COUNTRY. 
 
 The country traversed by the Sangamon river and its branches is a region sel- 
 dom equalled in fertility. It is high and undulating, well watered with creeks and 
 springs, and is beautifully interspersed with timber and prairie, the former of which 
 consists of those descriptions which grow only on the richest soil, being principally 
 locust, black walnut, hickory, maple, &c. 
 
 The prairies frequently contain fine groves of timber : these are generally ele- 
 vated above the surrounding country, and are most advantageous situations for set- 
 tlement. The inhabitants reside chiefiy in the margin of the timber, extending 
 their plantations to any distance in the prairie. 
 
 This desirable tract was settled with such rapidity, that it contained 5000 inhabi- 
 tants before a single section had been sold ; and flirms of considerable size, even 
 of a hundred acres of cultivated land, had been made. It is now divided into 
 several counties, containing a population of at least 40,000. The first white in- 
 habitants settled here in 1819, and the first sale of public land was in November 
 1823. At the present time, the borders of the prairie are covered with hundreds 
 of smiling farms, and the interior is animated with thousands of domestic animals; 
 the rough and unseemly cabin is giving place to comfortable framed or brick tene- 
 ments ; and plenty everywhere smiles upon the labours of the husbandman. 
 
 The objection oflen made by those unacquainted with a prairie country against 
 
 T 
 
26 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 the great extent of the prairies and a want of sufficient timber in tlie Sangamon 
 and other districts in Illinois, otters no serious inconvenience for the present; as 
 timber in sufiicicnt quantities Jias been found without ditKculty, to meet all the de- 
 mands of the population. With regard to the prairies, many persons are beginning 
 to understand the superiority of that description of land for agricultural purposes; 
 and the day is not far distant when, no doubt, it will be generally preferred to all 
 otiiers. 
 
 Late scientific examinations, as well as tlie practical results of settlement and 
 cultivation, have determined the fact that the prairies are richer as you approach 
 tlioir middles, and in some measure in proportion to the distance from timber ; and 
 iluit the carbonate of lime, so rich a nourisher of grasses and grains, is found in 
 the soil of the prairies to an extent of from 20 to 42 per cent. In timber lands it 
 is found in a much smaller proportion, and in many cases does not exist at all. This 
 fertilizing property, which renders the prairie lands so desirable, in appealing to 
 the esteem of the farmer, has only to struggle against his ideas of convenience to 
 timber. His apprehensions will be broken down by degrees. Coal, which exists 
 in the bluff's of the rivers and streams in almost every part of the state, will be 
 his fuel, and he will grow the hedge-thorn and the black locust for his fencing. 
 There is also a certainty of the gradual self-introduction of timber of the ordinary 
 growths, where the fires arc kept out of the prairies. In the southern part of the 
 state, which has been settled for 15 or 20 years, and where they once had the same 
 apprehensions about the prospective scarcity of timber which is now felt at tlie 
 north, they now have a greater abundance of timber than they had 20 years ago, 
 notwithstanding all tlie consumption of a comparatively dense population ; and tim- 
 ber has sprung up and grown large enough for farming purposes, where at the time 
 of settlement were extensive and monotonous prairies. 
 
 Above all countries, this is the land of (lowers. In the season every prairie is 
 an immense fiower-garden. In the early stages of spring rises a generation of 
 flowers, whose prevalent tint is peachblow. The next is a deeper red. Then suc- 
 ceeds the yellow; and to the latest period of autumn, the prairies exhibit a brilliant 
 golden hue. 
 
 The Sangamon country is one of the finest stock districts in the Western 
 states, the summer range for cattle is inexhaustible, and the amount of excellent 
 hay that may be made every season from the rich prairies almost without limit. 
 Horses, cattle, sheep, and hogs, can be raised here with but little trouble and ex- 
 pense, compared with the eastern states. The mildness of the climate has not 
 unfrequently relieved the owners from all care and expense of feeding them through 
 the whole year ; but it is generally necessary to feed from the commencement of 
 December until the latter part of JNIarch. \Vhen cattle are fed and attended to in 
 the best manner by provident farmers, the expense is less by one half, than winter- 
 ing the same species of stock in the eastern states. 
 
 The shortness and moderation of the winter seasons, and the abundant forage 
 which may as yet be gathered from the wild prairies, render the raising of stock 
 both cheap and easy. The grass, when cut from the upland prairies and well 
 cured, makes excellent hay; and cattle will keep in good order the whole winter 
 on this tbod alone. It has also been frequently remarked, that both horses and 
 cattle fatten quite as tast in the spring and summer, on the wild grass of the prai- 
 ries, as upon the time pastures of the east. And the richness and flavour of the 
 beef thus fattened, has been much esteemed at St. Louis and New-Orleans, and 
 generally reckoned of the finest quality. 
 
 This region is also admirably adapted for the cultivation of the sugar beet root, 
 which besides its great value in the manutiicture of the beet sugar, is about to be- 
 come a most important article in the feeding of cattle. 
 
 The following account of what has been accomplished in this way by a single 
 individual, is extracted from a western paper of late date. " Lot Pugh, Esq. of 
 Cincinnati, has cultivated most successfully the sugar beet, on his farm near that 
 city. Last year he raised 50 tons of beets to the acre, and his crop is much better 
 the present season. The manager of the farm says, that it requires but little 
 more labour to raise 50 tons of beets than fitlv bushels of corn, while the former is 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 27 
 
 quite as good for liorses, mucli better for cattle, and rather better for stock lioo-s. 
 He also asserts, that sucking calves preferred beets, when properly prepared, to 
 milk. Although cattle and hogs will cat beets in a raw state, still they are nuich 
 better when boiled. The apparatus and fixtures used by IMr. Pugli for boiling or 
 rather steaming, tbod for J3l)U hogs and 40 or 50 cows, with other stock, cost about 
 !i>150, and consumes a quarter of a cord of wood per day." 
 
 The above will show that a new item of national wealth is about to be introdu- 
 ced into the United States. The culture of the beet root has produced important 
 results in France. It is well known tiiat land in those districts where its growth 
 has become general has increased in value from 50 to 150 per cent. ; and the clear 
 annual income per acre, atlcr paying all e.\ptMiscs, ranges Irom ;35 to 40 dollars. 
 The profits would be equally great in this country ; for, although the price of la- 
 bour i<> ciieaper in France, the ditlerence would no doubt be amply compensated by 
 tiie superior fertility of tlie Illinois prairies, and tiie circumstance of dispensing 
 with manure, which the great depth and richness of the soil of tiie Sangamon and 
 other districts in this state will render unnecessary tor a long period. A very con- 
 siderable diminution of the annual profits in Europe, consists in the expense of 
 manuring the land so as to make it sufficiently rich to produce a remunerating 
 crop. 
 
 The prodigious impulse which the prosperity of a country may receive from the 
 introduction of a single new plant, is illustrated by the following historical fact. 
 
 In an early part of the reign of George the First, the culture of the turnip was 
 limited in England to as few gardens as that of the beet is now with us, and used 
 almost e.xclusively for culinary purposes. That monarch, in one of his visits to 
 his Electorate of Hanover, was attended by his Secretary of State, Lord Town- 
 send ; whilst residing there, this nobleman was struck by the appearance of ex- 
 tensive fields devoted to the culture of turnips as food for cattle and sheep. Im- 
 pressed with the belief that this method might be introduced with advantage into 
 his own country, he, before leaving Germany, took good care to provide himself 
 with seed, and, on his return, earnestly reconnnended to his tenants a practice, 
 which, in Hanover, had been found to produce the most favourable results. His 
 wishes were attended to, and the experiment spread through the county of Norfolk, 
 which from that period dates its high reputation as an agricultural district. Lands 
 which rented for one or two shillings an acre, soon brougiit 15 or 20 ; and sterile 
 barrens, on which were to be seen only a few half-starved rabbits, were reclaimed 
 and are now covered with rich harvests of grain. Colqnhoun, in his Statistical 
 Researches, computes that the annual value of a crop of turnips in Norfolk alone, 
 amounts to not less than 14 millions sterling ! When it is considered that this root 
 has been the means of bringing under culture lands which without it nmst have 
 remained valueless; that it leaves the soil in a good condition to receive a crop 
 of grain or grass, and that the latter is a good preparation for wiieat, we may safely 
 consider the benefits resulting to England from the culture of the beet as incalcu- 
 lable. If it was now asked, said Cokiuhoun, who was the man in modern times 
 who had rendered England the most signal service, no one should hesitate to say 
 it was the nobleman, whom shallow courtiers nicknamed in derision "Turnip 
 Townsend." In half a century the turnips spread over tiie three kingdoms, and 
 their yearly value at this day, says the same author, is not inferior in amount to 
 the interest of the national debt! 
 
 A body of lands perhaps equally extensive, and nearly as fertile and productive, 
 with tiiat on the Sangamon, lies along the course of the Kaskaskia, or Okau. 
 This river has a long course through the central parts of the Illinois, and a coun- 
 try happily diversified with prairie and forest. Tiie streams that fiow into it, have 
 sufficient full to be favourable for the site of mills. Some well-settled parts of the 
 state are watered by this river. On its banks is Kaskaskia, formerly the seat of 
 government, and Vandalia, at present the metropolis. 
 
 Although tiiere are extensive bodies of sterile and broken lands in Illinois, yet 
 take the whole of its wide surface together, it contains a greater proportion of first- 
 
28 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 rate land, than any state in the Union ; and probably as great in proportion to its 
 extent, as any country on the globe. One of the inconveniences connected with 
 this extent of rich country is too great a proportion of prairies, with which two- 
 thirds of the surface are covered; but the prevalence of coal and peat, and the ease 
 and rapidity with which forest trees may be raised, will render even the extensive 
 prairies not only habitable but desirable places of residence, 
 
 RIVERS. 
 
 It is only necessary to look on the map of this great state, to see what astonish- 
 ing advantages for inland navigation nature has given it. On its northern borders 
 it has for some distance the waters of Lake Michigan and the various streams that 
 empty into it; and by this vast body of waters a communication is opened with the 
 northern parts of Indiana and Ohio, with New- York and Canada. On the north- 
 west frontier it has Rock river, a long, beautiful, and beatable tributary of the Mis- 
 sissippi. On the whole western front it is washed by the Mississippi, and on its 
 southern by the Oliio. On the east it is bounded by the Wabash. Through its 
 centre winds in one direction the Illinois, connecting the Mississippi with Lake 
 Michigan by the Des Plaines and the Chicago rivers; and in another direction the 
 beautiful Kaskaskia flows through the state. Besides these, there are great num- 
 bers of beatable streams penetrating the state in every direction. Such is the 
 intersection of Illinois by these waters, that no settlement in it is far from a point 
 of beatable communication, cither with Lake Michigan, the Mississippi, the Ohio, 
 or the Illinois. 
 
 The Mississippi forms the western boundary of the state through its whole 
 length from north to south, a distance by the meanders of the stream of not far 
 from 600 miles. 
 
 One hundred and fifty years from the time of its discovery by La Salle, Mr. 
 Schoolcrafl first reached the source of the Mississippi, in the little lake Itasca, on 
 a high table-land, 1500 feet above the Gulf of Mexico, and 3160 miles from its 
 mouth by the windings of its channel. Its source is in about 47°, and its mouth in 
 29° north latitude ; and it consequently traverses 18 degrees of latitude. This 
 great river is in some respects the noblest in the world, draining a larger valley, 
 and irrigating a more fertile region, and having, probably, a longer course, than 
 any other stream. It commences in many branches, that rise, for the most part, 
 in wild rice lakes; but it traverses no great distance before it becomes a broad 
 stream. 
 
 Having acquired, in a course, following its meanders, of three hundred miles, 
 a width of half a mile, and having formed its distinctive character, it precipitates 
 its waters down the Falls of St. Anthony. Thence it glides alternately through 
 beautiful meadows and deep forests, swelling in advancing march with the tribute 
 of a hundred streams. In its progress it receives a tributary, which of itself has a 
 course of more than a thousand leagues. Thence it rolls its accumulated, turbid, 
 and sweeping mass of waters through continued forests, only broken here and there 
 by the axe, in lonely grandeur to the sea. 
 
 No thinking mind can contemplate this mighty and resistless wave sweeping its 
 proud course from point to point, curving round its bends tJirough the dark forests, 
 without a feeling of sublimity. The hundred shores laved by its waters — the long 
 course of its tributaries, some of which already flow through the abodes of cultiva- 
 tion, and others pursue an immense course without a solitary dwelling of civilized 
 man on their banks — the numerous tribes of savages that now roam over its bor- 
 ders — the affecting and imperishable traces of generations that are gone, leaving 
 no other memorials of their existence or materials for their history, than their 
 tombs that rise at frequent intervals along its banks — the dim, but glorious antici- 
 pations of the future, — tiiese are subjects of contemplation that cannot but associate 
 themselves with the view of this river. 
 
 With the common propensity of travellers to exaggerate, the Falls of St. Antho- 
 ny, until very recently, have been much overrated. Instead of the extravagant 
 estimates of the first French writers, or the fall of fifty feet assigned to them by 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 29 
 
 more modern authorities, the real fall of the Mississippi here is between sixteen 
 and seventeen feet of perpendicular descent. Thoug-ti it has not the slightest 
 claim to compare with that of Niagara in grandeur, it furnishes an impressive and 
 beautiful spectacle in the loneliness of the desert. The adjoining scenery is of the 
 most striking and romantic character ; and, as the traveller listens to the solemn 
 roar of the falls, as it sinks into feeble echoes in the forests, a thrilling story is told 
 him of the love and despair of a young Dacotah or Sioux Indian w'oman, who, 
 goaded by jealousy towards her husband, who had taken another wife, placed her 
 young children in a canoe, and, chanting the remembrances of love and broken 
 vows, precipitated herself and her infants down tlie falls. Indians are always 
 romancers, if not poets. Their traditions say, that these ill-fated beings so per- 
 ished, that no trace of them was seen ; but they suppose that her spirit wanders 
 still near this spot, and that she is seen on sunny mornings, carrying her babes in 
 the accustomed manner bound to her bosom, and still mourning the inconstancy of 
 her husband. 
 
 Below this point it is bounded by limestone bluffs, from 100 to 400 feet high, and 
 first begins to exhibit islands, drift-wood, and sand-bars; its current is slightly 
 broken by the Rock river and Des Moines rapids, vvliich, however, present no con- 
 siderable obstruction to navigation ; and 843 miles from the falls its waters are 
 augmented by tiie immense stream of the Missouri from the west: the latter has, 
 indeed, the longer course, brings down a greater bulk of water, and gives its own 
 character to the united current; yet it loses its name in the inferior stream. Above 
 their junction, the Mississippi is a clear, placid stream, one mile and a half in 
 width ; below, it is turbid, and becomes narrower, deeper, and more rapid. 
 
 Between the Missouri and the sea, a distance of 1220 miles, it receives its prin- 
 cipal tributaries, — tlie Ohio from the east, and the Arkansas and Red river from 
 the west; and immediately below the mouth of the latter, gives off, in tim.es of 
 flood, a portion of its superfluous waters by the outlet of the Atchafalaya. It is on 
 this lower part of its course, where it sliould, properly speaking, bear the name of 
 tlie Missouri, that it often tears away the islands and projecting points, and at the 
 season of high water, plunges great masses of the banks, with all their trees, into 
 its current. In many places it deposits immense heaps of drift-wood upon its mud- 
 bars, which become as dangerous to the navigator as shoals and rocks at sea. 
 
 Below the Atchafalaya, it discharges a portion of its waters by the Lafourche 
 and Iberville ; but the great bulk flows on in the main channel, which here has a 
 south-easterly course, and, passing through the flat tract of New-Orleans, reaches 
 the sea at the end of a long projecting tongue of mud, deposited by the river. 
 Near the Gulf of Mexico, it divides into several channels, here called passes, with 
 bars at their mouths of from 12 to 16 feet of water. The water is white and tur- 
 bid, and colours those of the Gulf for the distance of several leagues. 
 
 The river begins to rise in the early part of March, and continues to increase 
 irregularly to the middle of June, generally overflowing its banks to a greater or 
 less extent, although for some years these have not been inundated. Above the 
 Missouri, the flooded bottoms are from five to eight miles wide, but below that 
 point, they expand, by the recession of the river hills from the channel, to a breadth 
 of from 40 to 50 miles. From the mouth of the Ohio, the whole western bank 
 does not offer a single spot eligible for the site of a considerable town, and hardly 
 affords a route for a road secure from overflow ; on the eastern side, there are seve- 
 ral points where the hills approach the river, and afford good town-sites ; but from 
 Memphis to Vickshurg, 36.5 miles, the whole tract consists of low grounds, subject 
 to be inundated to the depth of several feet; and below Baton Rouge, where the 
 line of upland wholly leaves the river, and passes off to the east, there is no place 
 practicable for settlement beyond the river border, which is higher than the marshy 
 tract in its rear. 
 
 The Mississippi is obstructed by planters, sawyers, and wooden islands, which 
 are frequently the cause of injury, and even destruction, to the boats which navi- 
 gate it. Planters are large bodies of trees firmly fixed by their roots in the bottom 
 of the river, in a perpendicular manner, and appearing no more than about one 
 foot above the surface of the water, when at its medium height. So firmly are 
 
30 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 tliey rooted, that the largest boats running' against them will not move them ; but, 
 on the contrary, they materially injure the boats. Sawyers are likewise large 
 bodies of trees, fixed less perpendicularly in the river, and ratlier of a less size, 
 yielding to the pressure of the current, disappearing and appearing at intervals, 
 and having a motion similar to the saw of a saw-mill, from which they have taken 
 their name. These obstructions to the navigation have been partially removed by 
 the enterprizing captain SShreve, and his snag-boat, in the employment of the gen- 
 eral government; and a great portion of the trees that form them have been cut 
 away from its banks. Wooden islands are places, where, by some cause or other, 
 large quantities of drift-wood have been arrested and matted together in different 
 parts of the river. Formerly, all these various impediments were the cause of 
 heavy losses to the merchant, and danger to the traveller; but since the introduc- 
 tion of steamboats, and the improvement of the channel to which we have just al- 
 luded, accidents of this nature are not of such frequent occurrence. 
 
 The Mississippi and its mighty tributaries, which form so striking a natural fea- 
 ture of this region, give to the mode of travelling and transportion in general, a 
 peculiar cast, and have created a peculiar class of men, called boatmen. Craft of 
 all descriptions are found on these waters. There are the rude, shapeless masses, 
 that denote the infancy of navigation, and the powerful and magnificent steamboat 
 which marks its perfection; together with all the intermediate forms between 
 these extremes. The most inartificial of all water-craft is the ark, or Kentucky 
 flat, a huge frame of square timbers, with a roof. It is in shape a parallelogram, 
 and lies upon the water like a log; it hardly feels the oar, and trusts for motion 
 mainly to the current. It is 15 feet wide, from 50 to 80 feet long, and carries 
 from 200 to 400 barrels. These arks are often filled with the goods and families 
 of emigrants, and carry even the carriages and domestic animals. They are also 
 used for shops of various kinds of goods, which are sold at the different towns; and 
 some of them are fitted up as the work-shops of artificers. Sometimes, also, they 
 are used as museums of wax-figures, and other raree-shows, or for travelling libraries. 
 
 There are also keel-boats and barges, wliich are light and well built; skiffs, that 
 will carry from two persons to five tons; "dug-outs," or pirogues, made of hollow- 
 ed logs, — and other vessels, for which language has no name, and the sea no par- 
 allel. There are a few small boats, that are moved by a crank turned by a single 
 man: these are on the principle of steamboat paddles. Since the use of steamboats, 
 numbers of the other craft have disappeared, and the number of river boatmen has 
 been diminished by many thousands. The first steamboat on these waters was 
 built at Pittsburgh, in 1811 ; since that time, in a period of 25 years, about 600 
 have been built at different places, some of which are from' 400 to 500 tons bur- 
 then; but the greater number are from 90 to 150, 200, and 300 tons; there are at 
 present not far from 300 steamboats on tiie Mississippi and its tributaries, making 
 an aggrej;fate of about 60,000 tons. 
 
 The Mississippi is at all times navigable, except when obstructed by ice, by 
 steamboats drawing three feet water, as far up as Prairie du Chien; and frequently 
 they run up to the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of 800 miles above St. Louis. 
 There are only two permanent obstructions to the easy navigation of this river, 
 except at very low water, throughout tliis whole distance ; and they occur opposite 
 to different points in Illinois. The first is the Des Ivloines rapids, beginning a few 
 miles above the outlet of the river of that name, and extending up about 14 miles, 
 to a point nearly opposite the town of Commerce. In tliis distance there is a fall 
 of 25 feet; but the current is never too rapid for boats to stem it, and there is sel- 
 dom less than three feet of deptli in the channel. When the water gets very low, 
 it is the practice to unload the steamboats, pass them light over the rapids, and take 
 the freight over in keel-boats of less draught. These boats, when ascending, are 
 towed up along the western shore by horses moving along tlie natural beach. This 
 rapid is a source of great annoyance, expense, and delay ; and yet it is susceptible 
 of being so easily improved, as to make it matter of surprise tiiat it has not already 
 been done. 
 
 The second obstruction is the Rock Island rapids, very similar in character to 
 those below. They commence at Rock Island, just above the mouth of Rock river. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 31 
 
 and extend eighteen miles up the Mississippi. The navigation of tiiese rapids is 
 about to be improved by the general government, tor which purpose an appropria- 
 tion was made at the last session of Congress. 
 
 The principal tributaries of the Mississippi within the state of Illinois, are Rock, 
 Illinois, Kaskaskia, and Big Muddy rivers. About one hundred miles below the 
 northern boundary of the state, and in 41° 30' north latitude. Rock river enters the 
 Mississippi. It is a beautiful limpid stream, with a course of near 400 miles, and 
 is celebrated tor the purity of its waters, the e.xcellence of its fish, and the lertdity 
 of the lands on its banks. At a distance of from fifty to seventy miles lower down, 
 Edwards, Pope's, and Henderson's rivers enter: these flow through fertile prairie- 
 lands in the northern part of the Military Bounty Tract, and, though unavailable 
 for the purposes of navigation, furnisii fine mill-seats. 
 
 In latitude 39° comes in the Illinois from the north — a noble, broad, and deep 
 stream, 400 yards wide at its mouth ; having a course, including its head tributa- 
 ries, of 450 miles, and being navigable for a great distance. It is the most con- 
 siderable tributary of the Mississippi above the Missouri. 
 
 Nearly in 38°, and almost 500 miles below the north line of the state, following 
 the windings of the Mississippi, the Kaskaskia river enters. It runs through a 
 fertile and beautiful country, is 150 yards wide at the mouth, and has a course of 
 nearly 300 miles in length. 
 
 Upwards of forty miles lower down the stream of the Mississippi, the Big Muddy 
 comes in from the north. It is a considerable river, flowing through 120 miles of 
 country, and remarkable for having on its shores fine coal-banks. 
 
 At 37° north latitude, comes in the magnificent Ohio. It is by far the largest 
 eastern tributary of the Mississippi. At the junction, and for 100 miles above, it is 
 as wide as the parent stream. 
 
 The importance of a good town-site at the union of these mighty streams, has 
 for many years excited the attention of the enterprizing. It is a feature in the 
 rivers of the western country, with i'ew exceptions, that at and near their junction 
 the land is alluvion, of a recent formation, and, at tiie high annual floods, usually 
 hiundated to the depth of several feet. This is the case, particularly, at the mouth 
 of the Ohio. For twelve miles along that river above its mouth, and a farther 
 distance along the Mississippi, and across the point to Cash river, the country is 
 subject to annual inundations. Had the Author of Nature formed here an elevated 
 situation, nothing could have prevented this spot from becoming the central com- 
 mercial emporium of the great western valley. The immense trade of the Ohio 
 and Mississippi, at some future day, will warrant the expense of forming an artifi- 
 cial site at this point for a commercial town. The termination of the great central 
 rail-road through the state of Illinois will greatly facilitate this object, and, with 
 the commerce of these great rivers, build up a splendid city. In due time, art, 
 enterprize, and perseverance, will triumph over nature at this place, and a large 
 commercial city will no doubt exist where now the waters of the Ohio and Missis- 
 sippi occasionally spread. 
 
 Rock River is one of the most clear and beautiful tributaries of the Mississippi. 
 It has its source in Wisconsin Territory, a little to the north of latitude 43° 30', 
 immediately south-west of Winnebago lake, and about 130 miles, by the meanders 
 of the stream, beyond the northern boundary of the state. Its general direction is 
 south-west, and it enters the Mississippi not far from the commencement of the 
 Military Bounty Lands, afler a course of about 300 miles. It is said to be naviga- 
 ble for upwards of 200 miles; and receives in its course, about 170 miles from its 
 mouth, its most important tributary, the Pekatonica river; down which stream, one 
 individual, some three or four seasons since, shipped nine flat-boats containing 
 about 1,200,000 lbs. of lead. 
 
 A little above the mouth of this stream, in the Mississippi, is the beautiful 
 island, called from the name of the river, on which is a military station of the 
 United States, presenting one of the finest prospects on the whole range of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 The country towards the head of Rock river is made up alternately of swamps 
 and quagmires, ridges of sand and scrubby oaks, with tracts of rich, dry, undu- 
 
39 <;enet{al vii;\v of 
 
 lating lands. The Terre Tremblant, or trembling lands, is in this region, and is 
 so called from the shaking of the surface, while crossing over it. The militia of 
 Illinois suffered much, in passing their horses through this country, in 1832, while 
 pursuing the army of Black Hawk. Much of the country through which this river 
 ilows in Illinois is prairie. About the mouth of Turtle and Sycamore creeks arc 
 large bodies of timber. It generally passes along a channel of lime and sand- 
 stone rock, and has several rapids of some extent that injure the navigation at low 
 water. Tlie first is three or four miles above its mouth, the second, twelve or fif- 
 teen miles below Di.xonville : the next is just below the I'ekatonica river. These will 
 all furnish a great amount of water-power, applicable for manufacturing purposes. 
 
 The country generally, along Rock river north to the boundary line, is among 
 the most desirable in Illinois. It is beautifully undulating. The soil is rich and 
 fertile ; but the timber is rather deficient. This, however, will not prevent it from 
 becoming an extensive agricultural region. 
 
 The Kaskaskia river is a considerable stream, and is navigable, in those portions 
 of the year when the water is high, to Vandalia, 150 miles from its mouth; and 
 was ascended by a steamboat last spring to Carlyle, 100 miles from the Mississippi. 
 It rises in Champaign county, ami, after a south-west course of about 300 miles, 
 enters the Mississippi, six miles below the town of Kaskaskia. Its banks, and 
 those of its tributaries, are generally fertile, and contain some rich and flourishing 
 settlements. The country is mostly undulating, and is well adapted to the cultiva- 
 tion of corn, wheat, rye, oats, and tobacco. Cotton is sometimes raised on its 
 banks, in the lower part of its course. 
 
 The Kaskaskia is about 150 yards wide at its mouth. The left bank is high, 
 and affords a fine situation for a town ; but in many places the shores are low and 
 subject to inundation, which is a fruitful source of disease. 
 
 The legislature, in its system of internal improvements, appropriated $!50,000 
 to improve tlie navigation of Kaskaskia river. The chief obstructions are logs and 
 sand-banks, and short bends. The chief tributaries of the Kaskaskia are the Hur- 
 ricane, Crooked, Prairie, Long, Silver, and Shoal creeks. Its lower course is known 
 to the French people by the name of the Okau. 
 
 The Big Muddi/rlxer (Riviere au Vase ou Vaseux), discovered and named by 
 the French, is a considerable stream in the south-western part of the state. It 
 rises in Jefferson county, between the waters of the Little Wabash and Kaskaskia 
 rivers, and, atler a south and south-western course of about 120 miles through Jef- 
 ferson, Franklin, Jackson, and Union counties, flows into the Mississippi, about 25 
 miles below the Kaskaskia river, and 8 miles below the Grand Tower ; being fed 
 by several considerable branches, the chief of which are. Little Muddy river, 
 Beaucoup creek, and Middle Fork or Racoon creek. It is rendered boatable for 
 40 or 50 miles through a fine grazing and agricultural country. Its bluff's gene- 
 rally are abrupt. The land along its borders and brandies is undulating, and for 
 most of its length well timbered. Valuable salines exist on its banks, and are 
 worked about Brownsville, wliere there is an inexhaustible bed of bituminous coal. 
 Native copper has been found on its banks, in detached masses. 
 
 The Ohio river, which constitutes the southern boundary of the state of Illinois, 
 commences at Pittsburg, where it is formed by the junction of the Alleghany and 
 Monongahela. 
 
 This stream, from the beauty of the country on its banks, early obtained from 
 the French traders the name of La Belle Riviere, or beautiful river. From its 
 commencement it aflbrds most delightful prospects; rivers, of romantic and beauti- 
 ful character, come in almost at equal distances as lateral canals. Its bottoms are 
 of extraordinary depth and fertility, generally high and dry, and for the most part 
 healthy. Between Pittsburg and the mouth, it is diversified with 100 considerable 
 islands. Some of these are of exquisite beauty, and afford most lovely situations 
 for retired farms. The passages between them, and the sand-bars at their heads, 
 are among the difficulties of the navigation of this river. 
 
 The Ohio at Pittsburg is 6tX) yards wide, at Cincinnati a little more, and below 
 the Cumberland its average breadth is 1000 yards. It is bounded in its whole 
 course by bluffs, sometimes towering sublimely from the siiores of the river, and 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 33 
 
 sometimes recedincr two or throe miles. Tlie rapidity of its current is found, ac- 
 cording to the dillerent stages of the water, to vary between one and three miles. 
 In tiie lowest stages of tiie water in autumn, a floating substance would probably 
 not advance a mile an hour. It is subject to extreme elevations and depressions, 
 'i'he average range between high and low water, is ril^y feet. Its lowest stage is 
 in September, and its highest in March; but it is subject to sudden and very con- 
 siderable rises through the year. It lias been known to rise twelve feet in a nigliL 
 When these sudden elevations take place, at tiie breaking up of the ice, a scene 
 of desolation sometimes occurs : Ix-mts, and every tiling in its course, are carried 
 away by the accumulated power of the ice and the water. 
 
 The elevation of the river at Pittsburgh is 078 feet, and that of low water, at its 
 continence witli tlie Mississippi, 2!r^'S feet in 949 miles, tiie length of the interme- 
 diate channel making an average descent of a little over live inches in a mile. 
 Since the Louisville and Portland canal has been completed, steamboats of small 
 dratl can descend at all times from Pittsburgh to the Mississippi. Flat and keel 
 lioats descend tiie river at ail seasons, but in periods of low water with frequent 
 groundings on the sand-bars, and the necessity ot"otlen unloading to get the boat oti'. 
 
 From the mouth of tiie ^Vaba^h to its continence with the Mississippi, a distance 
 of nearly '200 miles, the riglit bank of the Ohio forms the soutiiern boundary of tlie 
 state of Illinois. In this distance, its banks are generally low and subject to inun- 
 dations ; but they are very fertile. 
 
 These inundations, as on the Mississippi, are occasionally sources of disease, and 
 in many cases impediments to improvement. Tliere are, however, some elevated 
 situations wiiich afford g(X)d town-sites, and wJiich must become places of conside- 
 rable importance. It is much to be regretted, tiiat at the confluence of the Oliio 
 and Mississippi there is an extensive recently termed alluvion, which is annually 
 inundated, and which cannot, witliout immense expense, be made an eligible 
 town-site. At the mouth of the Wabash, the land is similarly situated. Below 
 tiiis, no stream of any considerable size empties into the Ohio witliin tliis state. 
 The largest are Casli river, and Saline and Big Bay creeks. 
 
 The Slaline creek is the largest tributary of tlie Oiiio within the limits of the 
 state. It enters that river a few miles below Shawneetown, after a course of about 
 To miles ; and is formed of the iXorth, Middle, and South Forks. The salines, or 
 salt springs, trom whicli the stream takes its name, are in the vicinity of the town 
 of Equality, and are sources of wealth to the country, furnisliing large quantities 
 of salt lor home consumption. To Equality, "20 miles trom the Ohio, the Saline is 
 navigable for stenmhoats of a small class. This stream and its branches water 
 the counties of Gallatin, White, Hamilton, Franklin, and Johnson. 
 
 The Wabash river rises in the northern part of Indiana, and running first a 
 south-west and then a south course, empties into the Ohio nearly '200 miles above 
 its confluence with the Mississi]ipi. It is a beautiful stream about 600 miles in 
 length, with but one considerable foil or rapid, which is near the junction of White 
 river, below Vincennes. In low water, it obstructs the navigation very considera- 
 bly. An act was passed in 1819, to raise funds for the pur]xise of improving the 
 navigation at this place, by means of a canal. For more than 21X) miles, the Wa- 1 
 bash forms the eastern boundary of the state. The character of the lands border-! 
 ing on it is similar to that on the Ohio and Mississippi, although the alluvions of j 
 the Wabash are more extensive, and the inundations more formidable. The bot- 
 toms of the Wabash are an intermixture of prairie and woodland. The principal , 
 tributaries of the Wabash, in this state, are the Big and Little Vermillion, Embar- j 
 ras, and Little Wabash rivers. As a navigable channel, the Wabash is a most i 
 important stream : its course seems to be almost artiflcially drawn to form a part 
 of the line of commercial connexion between the Mississippi river and Lake Erie, 
 by the most direct route. 
 
 The chief branches gf this river in the state of Illinois, are the Embarras and 
 the Little Wabash. The Embarras rises in Chamjwign county : it runs at first 
 south, and then south-east; and, after a course of about 140 miles, enters the Wa- 
 bash about six miles below Vincennes. The country on the Embarras is of various 
 qualities, though there is much goal land. Towards its head the prairie greatly 
 
 - — ' 
 
34 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 predominates, the timber being in groves, and in narrow strips along its banks. It 
 soon widens to an extent of from two to six miles, and in the lower part of its 
 course, frequently from eight to ten miles. Generally the prairies through whicli 
 it flows are second-rate for more than half its length from its mouth. Its bottoms 
 are inundated in very high floods. The main stream ai«i its branches afford many 
 good mill-seats. 
 
 The Little Wabash river rises in the large prairies towards the head-waters of 
 the Kaskaskia, and, running south, enters the Wabash in the north-east corner of 
 Gallatin county. It is about 110 miles in a direct line from its heads to its mouth, 
 though about 150 miles, to follow its meanderings. It is navigable for flat-boats 
 and small craft, at a full stage of water ; about forty of the former leaving it annu- 
 ally, from Wayne and White counties, with beef, pork, corn, cattle, and some to- 
 bacco, for the New-Orleans market. The timber upon the banks of the Little 
 Wabash is mostly heavy, and of a good quality, and is several miles in width. The 
 country adjoining is fertile, but the bottoms are subject to inundation at high floods. 
 Several valuable mills have been erected on this stream, in White county. 
 
 The Illinois, which gives name to the state, may be considered the most impor- 
 tant river, whose whole course is in it. It is formed by the junction of the Kanka- 
 kee and Ues Plaincs rivers, near the towns of Dresden and Kankakee. Thence 
 it flows nearly a west course, until a short distance above Hennepin : here it 
 curves to the south, and then to the south-west. Passing Peoria, Pekin, Havanna, 
 and Beardstov/n, it reaches Naples. Hence to its mouth, its course is mostly due 
 south. It enters the Mississippi 20 miles above the Missouri. At high floods the 
 river overflows its banks, and covers its bottoms for a considerable extent. The 
 Mississippi, at extreme high water, backs up the Illinois about seventy miles to the 
 mouth of the Mauvaiseterre creek. 
 
 The commerce of the river is extensive, and increasing with a rapidity known 
 only to the rich agricultural regions of the Western States. Several steamboats 
 are constantly employed in its trade, and many others make occasional trips: 
 about thirty-five different boats passed and landed at Beardstown in 1836, making 
 tlie arrivals and departures 4.50. The year 1828 was the commencement of steam 
 I navigation on this river. 
 
 j Forty miles below the junction of the Kankakee and Des Plaines, the Illinois 
 ! receives the Fox river from the north. Both above and below the mouth of this 
 stream, there is a succession of rapids in the Illinois, with intervals of deep and 
 smooth water. From the mouth of Fox river to the foot of the rapids is nine 
 miles, the descent, in all, eight feet; the rock soft; sandstone mixed with gravel and 
 shelly limestone. Nine miles above Fox river, the grand rapids commence, and 
 extend ten or twelve miles. They are formed by ledges of rocks in the river and 
 rocky islands. The whole descent from the surface of Lake Micliigan at Chicago 
 to the foot of the rapids, a distance of 91^ miles, is 14lYyjy feet. 
 
 At the foot of the rapids the Vermillion river enters the Illinois from the south, 
 by a mouth of about fifty yards wide : it is an excellent mill-stream, and runs 
 through extensive beds of bituminous coal. About 60 miles down the Illinois 
 from the termination of the rapids, commences Peoria Lake, an expansion of the 
 river, and about twenty miles in length by two in width. Such are the depth and 
 regularity of the bottom, that it has no perceptible current whatever. Its waters 
 are very transparent, its margin exhibits a beautiful scenery, and its surface is fre- 
 quently covered with innumerable flocks of pelicans, swans, geese, and ducks. It 
 also abounds with every variety of fish to be found in any of the western waters. 
 
 A few miles below Lake Peoria, the Mackinaw river comes into the Illinois on 
 the east side from the south : it is about 100 miles in length, and is beatable a con- 
 siderable distance. It rises in the prairie, near the eastern part of M'Lean 
 county ; and, running south-westwardly through Tazewell county, enters tlie Illi- 
 nois about three miles below Pekin. About twenty-five miles below, and directly 
 opposite the town of Havanna, the Spoon river enters the Illinois from the west : 
 it is a beautiful stream, the most considerable of those which water the interior 
 of the Military Bounty Tract. It is navigable only a short distance. It has a 
 course of about 140 miles. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 35 
 
 About eight miles above Beardstown the Sangamon river enters the Illinois from 
 the east It is one of the most prominent branches of the Illinois, and has a 
 course ©f about 180 miles, with a boat navigation of 120 or 130 miles. From its 
 position, and the excellence of its lands, it is one of the most important streams 
 of the state. Crooked creek, next to Spoon river, is the most considerable stream 
 that waters the Military Bounty Tract. From its volume and length of course, 
 it deserves the name of river, but is mostly designated by the inferior title. It 
 enters from the west, a few miles below Beardstown, and has a course of about 
 100 miles. 
 
 Below Crooked creek, and on the east side of the river, are Indian, Mauvaise- 
 terre, and Sandy creeks in Morgan, and Apple and Macoupin creeks in Greene 
 county : these are all beautiful streams, and meander through some of the best 
 populated and fertile tracts of country in the state. M'Kee's creek, emptying on 
 the west side, is the lowest of the tributaries of the Illinois of any note that waters 
 the Military Bounty Tract: the land on this creek and its branches is excellent, 
 and well proportioned into timber and prairie, which is gently undulating, and 
 rich. The settlements are already large, and increasing from emigration. 
 
 In tlie Illinois river there are but few sand-bars and impediments of any conse- 
 ■ quence until we reach the Starved Rock, about one mile above tiie town of Utica. 
 Here we meet with the first permanent obstruction, being a ledge of sandstone 
 rocks immediately at the foot of the lower rapids, and extending entirely across 
 tlie bed of the river. This point is 210 miles by the course of the Illinois from 
 the Mississippi. The town of Utica may therefore be justly considered as the 
 head of steamboat navigation of the Illinois river, although steamers at high 
 water frequently ascend nine miles farther to Ottawa. The sum of 100,000 dol- 
 lars has been appropriated by the legislature of the state to improve the navigation 
 of tlie Illinois, which may be made good at all stages of the water. 
 
 For a great distance above its mouth, the river is almost as straight as a canal. 
 It has in summer scarcely a perceptible current ; and the waters, though transpa- 
 rent, have a marshy taste, to a degree to be almost unpotable. The river is wide 
 and deep, and, for the greater part of its width, is filled with aquatic weeds, to 
 such a degree that no person could swim among them. Only a few yards width, 
 in the centre of the stream, is free from them. It enters the Mississippi, through 
 a deep forest, by a mouth 400 yards wide. Perhaps no river of the Western 
 Country has so fine a boatable navigation for the same distance, or waters a richer 
 and more luxuriant tract of country. 
 
 On the banks of this river the first French emigrants from Canada settled them- 
 selves ; and here was the scenery on which they founded their extravagant pane- 
 gyrics upon the Western Country. 
 
 By the Chicago and Illinois Canal, now in progress, the waters of this stream 
 will be united to those of Lake Michigan, and will form one of the most important 
 links in the chain of internal navigable waters of the United States. Nature 
 seems to have accomplished a great share of the necessary labour to effect at this 
 grand improvement. The canal distance from the foot of the rapids to Lake 
 Michiga^i will be aear 100 miles. 
 
 The principal tributaries of the Illinois river are the Kankakee, Des Plaines, 
 Fox, Spoon, and Sangamon rivers. These are all considerable streams, and are, 
 after the Illinois, Kaskaskia, and Rock river, the most important in the state. 
 
 The Kankakee, or Thcukiki, is the eastern head branch of the Illinois. It rises 
 in the north-east part of the state of Indiana, two or three miles from the south 
 bend of St. Joseph's river, from whence running in a westerly and nortli-westerly 
 direction through the north-eastern part of Illinois, it unites with tlie Des Plaines 
 and forms the Illinois, forty miles above the mouth of Fox river. The Kankakee 
 has a course of about 150 miles, and is upwards of 200 yards wide at its mouth. 
 The prairie country through which it passes is generally of good soil. This river 
 was discovered at an early period by the French, and was one of the principal 
 routes uped by them in passing to the Mississippi. Navigation for small craft can be 
 effected, in high stages of the water, from the St. Joseph's river into the Kankakee. 
 The latter, for the first fifty miles of its course, flows through an extensive swamp. \ 
 
36 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 The Des Plaines river is the northern head branch of the Illinois. It rises in 
 Wisconsin Territory, a tew miles west of the town of Racine, on Lake Michigan, 
 and flowing tlirough the north part of the state, it joins the Kankakee at the bound- 
 ary line between La Salle and Will counties, where they tbrm the Illinois river. 
 The Des Plaines, in its course of 150 nnles, runs generally over a bed of limestone. 
 The country along its borders is populating rapidly, notwithstanding the apparent 
 deficiency of timber. About forty-two miles above the mouth of this stream is a 
 swamp connecting it with the Chicago river, tlirough which boats of some burden 
 have often been navigated into Lake Michigan. This route was used by the 
 traders as a medium of communication between the great lakes and the Mississippi, 
 from the first discovery of the country by Europeans; — this circumstance first 
 suggested the idea of an artificial connexion by means of a canal at this point. In 
 the bed of the Des Plaines, about forty rods above its junction with the Kankakee, 
 there is a fossil tree, of a very considerable size. It is a species of phytolites, and 
 is embedded in a horizontal position in a stratum of newer floetz sandstone, of a 
 gray colour and close grain. There are fifty-one feet six inches of the trunk visi- 
 ble. It is eighteen inches in diameter. 
 
 The Fox river is one of the principal tributaries of the Illinois, and rises in 
 Wisconsin Territory, about twenty miles north-west from Milwaukee, on Lake 
 Michigan. Its general direction is south, inclining to the west; and, after a course 
 of about 170 miles, it enters the Illinois river at Ottawa, 219 miles from the Mis- 
 sissippi. 
 
 At the rapids, five miles above its mouth, are extensive water-privileges. Here 
 the river is from 80 to 100 yards wide. The rapids are sixteen feet descent, and 
 both sides of the stream will admit of mills and machinery for three-fourths of a 
 mile, with inexhaustible supplies of water. This stream flows through a fine 
 prairie country, of a dark rich soil. Nearly the whole range of Fox river in Illi- 
 nois is through unsurveyed land : for nearly the entire distance, it is thickly settled. 
 Towns and villages are springing up as if by magic. Its chief tributaries are 
 Indian, Somonauk, Rock, and Blackberry creeks. 
 
 The Sangamon is one of the most important tributaries of the Illinois: it enters 
 that river about 100 miles above its mouth, and ten miles above Beardstown. It 
 rises in the attached part of Vermillion county, and heads with the Mackinaw, the 
 Vermillion river of the Illinois, the Big Vermillion, and other streams. Its length 
 of course is about 180 miles, and it is navigable for small steamboats, when the 
 waters are high, to the junction of the north and south forks, a distance from the 
 Illinois of about 75 miles; and, at a small expense in clearing out the principal 
 branches, they might be made beatable for small craft a considerable distance fur- 
 ther than they have yet been navigated. In the spring of 1832, a steamboat of the 
 larger class arrived within five miles of Springfield, and discharged its cargo. 
 Arrangements are in progress for running permanently, this fall (1837), a small 
 class steamboat from the towns on the Illinois to Petersburg, on the lelt bank of 
 the Sangamon, and about 45 miles from its mouth. 
 
 All the streams that enter this river have sandy and pebbly bottoms, and clear and 
 transparent waters. The Sangamon bottoms have a soil of extraordinary fertility, 
 and rear from their rich black mould a forest of enormous sycamore and other 
 forest trees; huce overgrown masses, towering to a great height above the head of 
 the passer-by. The Sangamon river and its branches flow through one of the rich- 
 est and most delightful portions of the great West. The beautiful and fertile 
 prairies on its banks will afibrd range for thousands of cattle, for many years. 
 The general aspect of the Sangamon country is level ; yet it is sufficiently undu- 
 lating to permit the water to escape to the creeks. It will soon constitute one of 
 the richest agricultural districts in the United States, the soil being of such a 
 nature that immense crops can be raised with little agricultural labour. 
 
 The principal branches of the Sangamon are the South Fork and Salt creek. 
 The latter is a fine stream of about 90 miles in length : it heads near the main 
 stream of the Sangamon, and receives in its course several considerable tributaries, 
 of which the chief are Kickapoo and Salt creeks. The South Fork is about 70 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 miles in length of course. It rises in Shelby county, and, flowing west and north- 
 west, enters the Sangamon about seven miles east of Springfield. 
 
 Spoon river is a considerable tributary of the Illinois, and is the largest stream 
 that waters the Military Bounty lands. It rises in the north-eastern part of the 
 t'-act, and after a course mostly soutli-west, through tiio counties of Putnam, Peo- 
 ria, Knox, and Fulton, of about 140 miles in extent, it enters the Illinois river by 
 a mouth 40 yards wide, directly opposite the town of Havanna in Tazewell county, 
 and about 125 miles from the Mississippi. The lands on Spoon river and its 
 branches are considered among the most eligible for settlement in this section of 
 the state; being high, undulating, well watered, and handsomely diversified with 
 prairie and timber. Of the latter, large bodies line the banks of the river and its 
 tributaries. They also furnish many excellent mill-seats. This stream can be 
 navigated for only a few miles; but, at a trifling expense in clearing out the trees 
 and rafts of timber, it might be made navigable tor one-half of the year to the 
 Forks. These, which are the prmcipal head branches of Spoon river, are called 
 the East and West Forks, and constitute, with the South Fork, the chief tributa- 
 ries of this stream. 
 
 The East Fork rises in the western part of Putnam county, and, after a course 
 of between 40 and 50 miles, is joined by the West Fork. There is much excellent 
 land on this fork and its branches; prairie predominates, but it is generally dry and 
 rich, with groves and points of timber, and many fine springs. 
 
 The West Fork rises in the south-east part of Henry county, runs a south-east- 
 erly course, and unites with the East Fork near the boundary line between Putnam 
 and Peoria counties. The country adjoining is similar to that on the East Fork, 
 except that the surface is more undulating. The timber is good, and in consider- 
 able bodies. Near the junction of these streams is much excellent timber, with a 
 strip of fertile prairie between. Here is a considerable settlement, called Essex's 
 Settlement, containing a grist and saw-mill, and a post-oflioe. 
 
 The South Fork rises in Warren county, near the head of Ellison creek, runs a 
 south-easterly course, and unites with the main stream about 50 miles from the 
 Illinois river. Some of the best land in the state lies on this stream. This is 
 frequently called the West Fork. 
 
 MINERALS. 
 
 Coal, salt, lime, lead, iron, and copper, are among the known mineral productions 
 of Illinois; but the soil has not yet been much explored for its hidden treasures. 
 Coal, secondary limestone, and sandstone, exist in almost every quarter. 
 
 Lead is found in the north-western part of the state in vast quantities : the lead 
 diggings extend from the Wisconsin to the vicinity of Rock river, and on both 
 sides of the Mississippi. The Indians and French had been long accustomed to 
 procure small quantities of the ore, but it was not until 1822 that the prot^ess of 
 separating the metal was begun to be carried on. Since that time, up to the end 
 of 1835, 70,420,357 pounds of lead have been made here, and upwards of 13,000,000 
 pounds have been smelted in one year; but the business having been overdone, the 
 product has since been much less. In 1833, it was 7,941,792 pounds; in 1834, 
 7,971,579; and in 183.5, only 3,754,290. This statement includes the produce of 
 Wisconsin Territory, as well as of Illinois. The rent accruing to government for 
 the same period, is a fraction short of 6,000,000 pounds. Formerly, the government 
 received ten per cent, in lead for rents. Now it is six per cent. 
 
 A part of the mineral land in the Wisconsin Territory has been surveyed and 
 brought into market, which will add greatly to the stability and prosperity of the 
 mining business. It is expected that the mineral lands in Illinois will soon be in 
 market. 
 
 Iron ore has been found in the southern parts of the state, and is said to e.xisl in 
 considerable quantities in the northern parts. 
 
 Native copper, in large quantities, exists in the northern part of the state, espe- 
 cially at the mouth of Plum creek, and on the Pekatonica. It is also found in 
 small quantities on Muddy river, in Jackson county, and back of Harrisonville, in 
 
38 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 the bUilFs of Monroe county. A sliaft was sunk 40 feet deep in 1817, in search of 
 this metal, but without success. 
 
 Silver is supposed to exist in St. Clair county, two miles from Rock Spring, 
 whence Silver creek derives its name. In tiie early times, by the French, a shatl 
 was sunk liere, and tradition tells of large quantities of the precious metal being 
 obtained. In tlie southern part of the state, several sections of land have been re- 
 served from sale, on account of the silver ore they are supposed to contain. Mar- 
 ble of a fme quality is Ibund in Randolph county. Crystallized gypsum has been 
 Ibund in small quantities in St. Clair county. Quartz crystals exist in Gallatin 
 county. 
 
 Bituminous coal abounds in this state, and may be found in nearly every county. 
 It is frequently perceived without excavation in the ravines and at the points of 
 bluffs. Vast beds of this mineral exist in the bluffs adjacent to the American Bot- 
 tom m SL Clair coimty, of which large quantities are annually transported to St. 
 Louis for fuel. A rail-road is now constructing by a private company, from the 
 bkifts to the ferry, six miles, for the purpose of transporting coal to St. Louis. 
 
 A large vein of coal, several feet thick, and apparently exhaustless, has been 
 struck in excavating the Illinois and Michigan canal, a few miles below Ottawa. 
 A bed of anthracite coal, it is said, has been discovered on Muddy river in Jackson 
 county. 
 
 Muriate of soda, or common salt, has been found in various parts of the state, 
 held in solution in the springs. The manufacture of salt by boiling and evapora- 
 tion is carried on in Gallatin county, 12 miles west-north-west from Shawneetown ; 
 in Jackson county, near Brownsville; and in Vermillion county, near Danville. 
 The springs and land are owned by the state, and the works leased. A coarse 
 freestone, iimch used in building, is dug from quarries near Alton, on the Missis- 
 sippi, where large bodies exist. 
 
 Medicinal waters are tbund in different parts of the state. These are chiefly 
 sulphur springs and chalybeate waters. There is said to be one well in the south- 
 ern part of the slate strongly impregnated with the sulphate of magnesia, or Epsom 
 salts, from which considerable (luantities have been made for sale, by simply evapo- 
 rating the water, in a kettle, over a conmion fire. There are several sulphur 
 springs in Jefferson county, to which persons resort for healtli. 
 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 There are several kinds of wild animals in the state of Illinois: of these, the 
 principal and most numerous are deer, wolves, raccoons, opossums, &lc. Several 
 species formerly conunon have become scarce, and are constantly retreating before 
 the march of civilization ; and some are no longer to be found. The buflalo has 
 entirely left the limits of the stale, and indeed all the settled parts of the Western 
 Country, and is now found only on the head-waters of the Mississippi and its tribu- 
 taries, and on the vast prairies west of the Missouri river. This animal once 
 roamed at large over the plains of Illinois; and, so late as the commencement of 
 tlie present century, was found in considerable numbers; and traces of them are 
 still remaining in the buffalo paths, which are to be seen in several parts of the 
 state. These are well-beaten tracks, loading generally from the prairies in the 
 interior of the stale to tiie margins of the large rivers, showing the course of their 
 migrations as they changed their pastures periodically, from the low marshy allu- 
 vion, to the dry upliuul plains. Their paths are narrow, and remarkably direct, 
 showing that the animals travelled in single file through the woods, and pursued 
 the most direct course to their places of destination. 
 
 13eer are more abundant than at the first settlement of the country. They in- 
 crease, to a certain extent, with the population. The reason of this appears to be, 
 that they find protection in the neighbourhood of man from the beasts of prey that 
 assail them in the wilderness, antl from whose attacks their young particularly can 
 with difficulty escape. They suffer most from tlic wolves, who hunt in pcks, like 
 hounds, and who seldom give up the chase until the deer is taken. 
 
 Immense numbers of deer are killed every year by the hunters, who take them 
 
THE STATE OF ILLIN(HS. 39 
 
 for the hams and skins alone, tlirowing away the rest of the carcase. Venison 
 hams and hides are important articles of export. Fresh hams usually sell at from 
 75 cents to $1.50 a pair, and when properly cured, are a delicious article of tbod. 
 
 There are several ways of hunting deer, all of which are etjually simple. Most 
 generally the hunter proceeds to tjie woods on horseback, in tlie day-time, select- 
 ing particularly certain hours which are tliought to be most favourable. It is said, 
 that during the season when the pastures are green, this animal rises iwm its lair 
 precisely at the rising of the moon, whether in tlic day or night; such is the uni- 
 ibrm testimony of experienced hunters. If it be true, it is certainly a curious dis- 
 play of animal instinct. This hour, therefore, is always kept in view by the hun- 
 ter, as he rides slowly through the forest with his rifle on iiis shoulder, while his 
 keen eye penetrates the surrounding shades. On beholding a deer, the hunter 
 slides from his horse, and while the deer is observing the latter, creeps upon him, 
 keeping the largest trees between himself and the object of pursuit, until he gets 
 near enough to fire. An expert woodsman seldom fails to hit his game. 
 
 Anotlier mode is, to watch at night, in tlie neighbourhood of the salt-licks. These 
 are spots where the earth is impregnated with saline particles, or where the salt- 
 water oozes through the soil. Deer and other grazing animals freciuent such 
 places, and remain for hours licking the earth. The hunter secretes himself here, 
 citlier in the thick top of a tree, or, most generally, in a screen erected tor the 
 purpose, and artfully concealed, like a masked battery, with logs or green boughs. 
 This practice is pursued only in the summer, or early in the autunm, in cloudless 
 liights, when the moon shines brilliantly, and objects may be readily discovered. 
 At the rising of the moon, or shortly after, the deer, having risen from their beds, 
 approach the lick. Such places are generally bare of timber, but surrounded by 
 it, and as tlie animal is about to emerge from the shade into the clear moonlight, 
 he stops, looks cautiously around, and snufls the air. Then he advances a few 
 steps, and stops again, smells the ground, or raises liis expanded nostrils, as if he 
 'snuffed the approach of danger in every tainted breeze.' The hunter sits motion- 
 less, and almost breathless, waiting until the animal shall get within rifle-shot, and 
 until its position in relation to the hunter and tiie light, shall be favourable, when 
 he fires with an unerring aim. A few deer only can be thus killed in one night, 
 and after a few nights tliese timorous animals are driven from the ham:its which 
 are thus disturbed. 
 
 Many of the frontier people dress deer-skins, and make them into pantaloons 
 and hunting-shirts. These articles are indispensable to all who have occasion to 
 travel in viewing land, or for any other purpose, beyond the settlements, as cloth 
 garments, in the shrubs and vines, would soon be in strings. 
 
 It is a novel and pleasant sight to a stranger, to see the deer in flocks of eight, 
 ten, or fifteen in number, feeding on the grass of the prairies, or bounding away 
 at the sight of a traveller. 
 
 Tlie elk has disappeared. A few have been seen in late years, and some taken; 
 but it is not known that any remain at this time, witliin the limits of the state. 
 
 The bear is seldom seen. This animal inhabits those parts of tlie country that 
 are thickly wooded, and delights particularly in the cane-brakes, where it feeds in 
 the winter on the tender shoots of the young cane. The meat is tender and finely 
 flavoured, and is esteemed a great delicacy. 
 
 Wolves are numerous in most parts of the state. There are two kinds — the 
 common or black wolf, and the prairie wolf. The former is a large fierce animal, 
 and very destructive to sheep, pigs, calves, poultry, and even young colts. They 
 hunt in packs, and after using every stratagem to circumvent their prey, attack it 
 with remarkable ferocity. Like tiie Indian, they always endeavour to surprise 
 their victim, and strike the mortal blow without exposing themselves to danger. 
 They seldom attack man, except when asleep or wounded. The largest animals, 
 when wounded, entangled, or otherwise disabled, become their prey; but in gene- 
 ral they only attack such as are incapable of resistance. Their most common prey 
 is the deer, which they hunt regularly ; but all defenceless animals are alike ac- 
 ceptable to their ravenous appetites. When tempted by hunger they ajiproacii the 
 farm-houses in the night, and snatch tlieir prey from under the very eye of tiie 
 
40 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 farmer; and when the latter is absent with his dogs, the wolf is sometimes seen 
 by the females lurking about in mid-day, as if aware of the unprotected state of 
 the family. 
 
 The smell of burning assafcDtida has a remarkable effect upon this animal. If a 
 fire be made in the woods, and a portion of tliis drug thrown into it, so as to satu- 
 rate the atmospliere with the odour, the wolves, if any are within reach of the 
 scent, immediately assemble around, howling in the most mournful manner; and 
 such is the remarkable fascination under wliich they seem to labour, that they will 
 often suffer themselves to be sliot down rather than leave the spot. 
 
 The prairie wolf is a smaller species, but little larger than a fb.x, and takes its 
 name from its habit of residing entirely upon the open plains. Even when hunted 
 with dogs, it will make circuit atler circuit round the prairie, carefully avoiding 
 the forest, or only dashing into it occasionally when hard pressed, and then return- 
 ing to the plain. In size and appearance this animal is midway between the wolf 
 and the Jb.v, and in colour it resembles the latter, being of a very light red. It 
 preys upon poultry, rabbits, young pigs, calves, &c. The most friendly relations 
 subsist between it and the common wolf, and they constantly hunt in packs to- 
 gether. Nothing is more comu)on than to see a large black wolf in company with 
 several prairie wolves. 
 
 The tbx abounds in some places in great numbers, though, generally speaking, 
 the animal is scarce. It will undoubtedly increase with the population. 
 
 The panther and wild cat are occasionally foimd in the forests. The open coun- 
 try is not well suited to their shy habits, and they are less frequently seen than in 
 the neighbouring states. 
 
 The beaver and otter were once numerous, but are now seldom seen, except on 
 the frontiers. 
 
 There are no rats, except along the large rivers, where they have landed from 
 the boats. 
 
 Wild horses are found ranging the prairies and forests in some parts of the state. 
 They are small in size, of the Indian or Canadian breed, and very hardy. They 
 are caught in pens, or witli ropes having nooses attached to them, and broken to 
 the saddle and harness. The French, who monopolize the business of catching 
 and breaking these horses, make them an article of traffic ; their common price is 
 from 20 to 30 dollars. Thcj' are found chiefly in the lower end of the American 
 Bottom, near the junction of the Kaskaskia and Mississippi rivers, called the Point. 
 They are the offspring of the horses brought tiiere by the first settlers, and which 
 were suffered to run at large. The Indians of the West have many such horses, 
 which are commonly called Indian ponies. 
 
 The gray and fox squirrels often do mischief in the corn-fields, and the hunting 
 of them makes fine sport for the boys. It is a rule amongst the Kentucky rifle- 
 men to shoot a squirrel only through his eyes, and that from the tops of the highest 
 trees of the forest. It is evidence of a bad marksman, for a hunter to hit one in 
 any other part. 
 
 The gophar is a singular little animal, about the size of a squirrel. It burrows 
 in the ground, is seldom seen, but its works make it known. It labours during 
 the night, in digging subterranean passages in the rich soil of the prairies, and 
 throws up hillocks of fresh earth, within a few feet distance from each other, and 
 from 12 to 18 inches in height. They form these by removing the earth from 
 ti)eir holes, by means of a pouch with which nature has furnished tliem on each 
 side of their mouth ; a dozen of these hillocks has been seen, the production of 
 one night's labour, and apparently from a single gophar. The passages are formed 
 in such a labyrinth, that it is a difficult matter to find the animal by digging. 
 They are very mischievous in corn and potatoe fields, and in gardens they prey 
 upon all kinds of bulbous roots. Their bite is said to be poisonous. 
 
 The polecat is very destructive to poultry. 
 
 The raccoon and opossum are very numerous, and extremely troublesome to the 
 farmer, as they not only attack his poultrj', but plunder his corn-fields. They are 
 hunted by boys, and large numbers of them destroyed. Tlie skins of the raccoon 
 pay well for the trouble of taking them, as the fur is in demand. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 41 
 
 Rabbits are very abundant, and in some places extremely destructive to the 
 young orchards and to garden vegetables. Tlie fence around a nursery must 
 always be so close as to shut out rabbits, and young apple-trees must be secured at 
 the approach of winter, by tying straw or corn stalks around their bodies, for two 
 or tiiree feet in height, or the bark will be stripped off by these mischievous ani- 
 mals. 
 
 The ponds, lakes and rivers, during the spring and autumn, and during the mi- 
 grating season of water-fowls, are literally covered with swans, pelicans, cranes, 
 geese, brants, and ducks, of all the tribes and varieties. Many of these fowls rear 
 their young on the islands and sand-bars of the large rivers. In the autumn, mul- 
 titudes of them are killed for their quills, feathers, and flesh. 
 
 The prairie fowl is seen in great numbers on the prairies in the summer, and 
 about the corn-fields in the winter. This is the grouse of the New-York market. 
 They are easily taken in the winter, and when fat are excellent for the table. 
 
 Partridges (the (^uail of New-England) are taken with nets, in the winter, by 
 hundreds in a day, and furnish no trifling item in the luxuries of the city market. 
 
 Bees are to be tbund in the trees of every forest. Many of the frontier people 
 make it a prominent business, after tiie frost has killed the vegetation, to hunt 
 them for the honey and wax, both of which find a ready market. Bees are profit- 
 able stock for the farmer, and are kept to a considerable extent. 
 
 Poisonous reptiles are not so common as in unsettled regions of the same lati- 
 tude, where the country is generally timbered. Burning the prairies undoubtedly 
 destroys multitudes of them. 
 
 DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 
 
 The domestic animals are the same as elsewhere in the United States. The 
 wild prairies, everywhere covered with grass, invite the raising of cattle. Many 
 of the farmers possess large droves, and they may be multiplied to an almost 
 indefinite extent. 
 
 The neat cattle are usually inferior in size to those of the old states. This is 
 owing entirely to bad management : the cows are not penned up in pasture-fields, 
 but suffered to run at large over the commons. Hence all the calves are pre- 
 served, without respect to quality, to entice cows homeward at evening. They 
 are kept up through the day, and oftentimes without much pasture, and turned to 
 the cows tor a few minutes at night, and then permitted to graze through the 
 night over the short and withered grass around the plantation. In autumn their 
 food is very scanty, and during the winter they are permitted to pick up a preca- 
 rious subsistence amongst fifty or a hundred head of cattle. With such manage- 
 ment, is it surprising that the steers and cows are much inferior to those of the old 
 states ] 
 
 Common cows, if suffered to lose their milk in August, become sufficiently fat 
 for table use by October. Farrow heifers and steers are good beef, and fit for the 
 knife at any period after the middle of May. A cow in the spring is worth from 
 twelve to twenty dollars. Some of the best quality will sell higher. Cows, in 
 general, do not produce the same amount of milk, nor of as rich a quality as in 
 older states. Something is to be attributed to the nature of the pastures, and the 
 warmth of the climate, but more to causes already assigned. If ever a land was 
 characterized justly as "flowing with milk .and honey," it is Illinois and the adja- 
 cent states. From the springing of the grass till September, butter is made in 
 great profusion. It sells at that season in market for about twenty cents, and in 
 the interior of the state for twelve cents per pound. With proper care, it can be 
 preserved with tolerable sweetness for winter's use. Late in autumn and early in 
 the winter, sometimes butter is not plenty. The feed becomes dry, the cows 
 range further off, and do not come up readily for milking, and dry up. A very 
 little trouble would enable a farmer to keep three or four good cows in fresh milk 
 at the season most needed. 
 
 Cheese is made by many families, especially in the counties bordering on the 
 Illinois river. Good cheese sells for eight and sometimes ten cents, and finds a 
 
42 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 ready market. The most important arrangement for the dairy business in Illinois, 
 and especially for cheose-niaking, is to persuade a few thousand families, from the 
 dairy regions of New England, to emigrate, and continue their industrious habits 
 atler settling iiere. 
 
 The beef of this state is the finest in the world. It bears the best inspection of 
 any m the New-Orleans market. By the first of June, and otlen by the middle of 
 May, young cattle on the prairies arc fit for market. They do not yield lartre 
 quantities of tallow, but the fat is well proportioned tljroughout the carcase, and 
 the meat tender and delicious. Nothing is more common than for an Illinois 
 farmer to go among his stock, select, shoot down, and dress a fine beef, whenever 
 fresh moat is needed. Tins is often divided out amongst the neighbours, who, in 
 turn, kill and share likewise. It is common at camp and otiier lar-re meetings, to 
 kill a beef and tliree or tour hogs for the subsistence of friends from a distance. 
 Lmiits can hardly be placed upon the amount of beef cattle that Illinois is capable 
 o( producing. A farmer calls himself poor, with a hundred head of horned cattle 
 around him. 
 
 But little has been done to improve tiie breed of horses in Illinois: common riding 
 or working horses average about fifteen hands in height. When the same atten- 
 tion IS bestowed here upon raising the finest kind of horses that is given to the 
 subject by the Pennsylvania farmer, that noble animal will be raised in the great- 
 est perfection. Horses are much more used here than in the eastern states, and 
 many a farmer keeps half-a-dozen or more. Much of the travelling throuo-hout 
 tlie western country, both by men and women, is performed on horseback ; and a 
 large proportion of tlie land-carnage is by means of large wagons, with from tour 
 to si.\ stout horses for a team. 
 
 Breeding marcs are profitable stock for every farmer to keep, as their annual 
 expense in keeping is but tnfiing, their labour is always needed, and their colts 
 when grown, find a ready market. Some farmers keep a stallion, and ei-^ht or ten 
 brood mares Horses are more subject to diseases in this country than Tn the old 
 s ates which is thouglit to be occasioned by bad management, rather than by the 
 climate. A good tarm-horse can be purchased for fifty dollars. A great proportion 
 of tlie ploughing m Illinois is performed by horse labour 
 
 int!^T'l'l?Lr T^"^ ^" ^1''''^""' ''"'^ f '" ^'''^ ""^^'-''^ *™'" the Mexican dominions 
 boS tTaL.r^.n7ru[mg"'^ ""'"^^' ^"^" '' ' ^''^ ^'-' ^^ "« -^^ by some 
 wlfprft'^f''"'""'''!^ *',"■""' '''^^l '" this country, especially in the older settlements, 
 «rp kon %r " ^^f""^ '^''' ^",^ '^'^y ^^^ ^«^« "^«'^«ted by wolves. But few 
 are kept. The people from the south are more accustomed to cotton for clothing 
 
 tLt7r\ ""Yl ?"' ^'' ^'^y f*^"^^ P^^ P^'^"'^- Little is said or done fo 
 improve the breed of sheep, or introduce the Merino or Saxony breed 
 
 fc>wm? may be called a staple in the provision of Illinois. Thousands of ho<rs 
 are raised without any expense, except a ie^ breeders to start with and a liule 
 attention to hunting them on the range, and keeping tliem tame. Tiiis kind of 
 
 ft s of>^iil'"''f T^ ;°K^'' '""''"^ ""^ ^^"'^'^ «" ^°^"' ^"d '" ^ domestic wa^ 
 It 18 soft Oily, and wi 1 not bear inspection at New-Orleans. It usually sells for 
 three do ars per hundred. Pork that is made m a domestic way, ^nd fatted on 
 corn, will sel for from four to five dollars, according to size, qualfty.Snd the time 
 when It IS delivered. With a pasture of clover or'blue grkss, a weH-tilled cZ! 
 crib, a dairy, and slop-barrel, and the usual care that a New-En.rlandeTbestows on fS 
 pigs, pork may be raised from the sow, fatted, and killed, andCighfrom fwo Sun 
 pork r l7be ^SblT' ''^' ^^^^'''" '^^''^ --^'^^' -^ ^h- -thod of r:ism"g 
 ^FfuZ ^^"f'^^J'' the west and south put up their pork in salt pickle Their 
 C .hn u ''" ''r^T.^.'^'^y ^ P-"^?"^ it for smoking, and then make baconTf 
 ronS f °" •^"':^' »"^ middlings or broadsides. The price of bacon, takin^the Jo- 
 mn I;/ ^rl'f" "^ '^'^^^ ^""ts. Good hams command twelve cefts in the 
 market Stock hogs, weighing from sixty to one hundred pounds, alive usiav 
 
 ntfmrmrt n I'nm ° '"" '•^"""^ "^' '^'^ ^?'^ P'"" '"^^ FamUircoium^ 
 mucn more meat in Illinois, in proportion to numbers, than in the old states. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 43 
 
 Poultry are raised in great profusion, and large numbers of fowls taken to mar- 
 ket. It is no uncommon thing tor some farmers' wives to raise tliree or four hun- 
 dred fowls, besides geese, ducks, and turkeys, in a season. Young fowls, butter, 
 and eggs, are the three articles usually mustered from every farm tor the market. 
 Eggs, when plenty, as at the close of winter and spring, usually sell lor ten and 
 twelve cents per dozen. 
 
 PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOIL. 
 
 This state, iiaving a vast extent of the most fertile land, must of course raise 
 with great ease all the articles to which her soil and climate are favourable, to an 
 amount far beyond her consumption. All the grains, fruits, and roots of the tem- 
 perate regions of the earth grow lu.xuriantly : the wheat is of excellent quality, 
 and there is no part of the Western Country where corn is raised with greater 
 ease and abundance. Garden vegetables of all kinds succeed well. No country 
 can exceed this, in its adaptedness tor rearing the finest fruits and fruit-bearing 
 slirubs. Wild fruits and berries are in many places abundant, and on some of the 
 prairies the strawberries are remarkably fine. 
 
 In most parts of the state, grape-vines, indigenous to the country, are abundant, 
 yieldmg grapes that might advantageously be made into excellent wine. Foreign 
 vines are susceptible of easy cultivation. These are cultivated to a considerable 
 extent at Vevay, Switzerland county, Indiana, and at N(!W Harmony on the Wa- 
 bash. The indigenous vines are prolific, and produce excellent fruit. They are 
 found in every variety of soil, interwoven in every thicket in the prairies and bar- 
 rens, and climbing to tiie tops of the very highest trees on the bottoms. The 
 French in early times made so much wine as to export some to France ; upon 
 which the proper authorities prohibited, about the year 1774, the introduction of 
 wine from Illinois, lest it might injure the sale of that staple article of tiie king- 
 dom. 
 
 Plums, in the prairies of various sizes, and flavour somewhat tart, grow in great 
 abundance; their colour is generally red, and their taste delicious. In some loca- 
 tions, acres of these trees exhibit a surface of the colour of rubies : the quantities 
 of fruit are prodigious; by some, two busiiels a tree are yielded. 
 
 Crab-apples are also very prolific, and make fine preserves with about double 
 their bulk of sugar. Wild cherries are equally productive. The persimmon is 
 a delicious fruit, atler the frost has destroyed its astringent properties. The black 
 mulberry grows in most parts, and is used for the feeding of silk-worms with suc- 
 cess. They appear to thrive and spin as well as on the Italian mulberry. The 
 gooseberry, strawberry, and blackberry grow wild and in great profusion. Of nuts, 
 the hickory, black walnut, and peccan, deserve notice. The last is an oblong, 
 thin-shelled, delicious nut, that grows on a large tree, a species of the hickory. 
 The pawpaw grows in the bottom, and ricli timbered uplands, and produces a 
 large, pulpy, and luscious fruit. 
 
 Of domestic fruits, the apple and peach are chiefly cultivated. Pears are tole- 
 rably plentiful in the French settlements, and (piinces are cultivated with success 
 by some Americans. Apples are easily cultivated, and are very productive. They 
 can be made to bear fruit to considerable advantage, in seven years, from tiie seed. 
 Many varieties are of fine flavour, and grow to a large size. Apples, tiie growth 
 of St. Clair county, have been measured that exccerled tiiirtecn inches in circum- 
 ference. Some of the early American settlers provided orchards ; and they are 
 now reaping the advantages. But a large proportion of the population of the 
 frontiers are content without this indispensable; article in the comforts of a Yankee 
 farmer. Cider is made in small (juantities in tiie old settlements. In a few years, 
 a supply of this beverage can be had in most parts of Illinois. Peach-trees grow 
 with great rapidity, and decay proportionably soon. From ten to fifteen years may 
 be considered as the duration of this tree. The peaches are delicious, but they 
 sometimes fail by being destroyed in the germ by winter frosts. The bud swells 
 prematurely. 
 
 The cultivated vegetable productions in the field are Indian corn, wheat, oats, 
 barley, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, rye for horse-feed and 
 
44 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 distilleries, tobacco, cotton, hemp, flax, the castor-bean, and every other production 
 common to the middle states. Indian corn is a staple production. No farmer can 
 live without it, and hundreds raise little else. This is chiefly owing to the ease 
 with which it is cultivated. Its average yield is fifty busiiels to the acre. Often- 
 times the product amounts to seventy-five bushels to the acre, and in some in- 
 stances has exceeded one hundred. Corn is planted about the first of May. The 
 white and yellow flint are the best adapted to the climate. When ready to g-p-ther 
 in, the ears are commonly plucked off by the hand, hauled to the vicinity of the 
 crib, and the people in tiie settlement invited to the corn-shucking. Ordinarily 
 these gatherings end in sobriety and good feelings, but occasionally (if whiskey is 
 plenty) they prove scenes of unbridled merriment. In slave-holding states, these 
 annual corn-shuckings are the seasons of fun and frolic to the negro. A fat ox or 
 cow, and two or three shoats, are killed, pones of corn bread smoking hot are 
 brought forward, the bottle of whiskey circulates, and the woods and hills are 
 made to ring with negro songs and shouts of merriment. It is the real harvest- 
 home of the slaves. 
 
 Wheat yields a good and sure crop, especially in the counties bordering on the 
 Illinois river, and through the northern parts of the state. It weighs upwards of 
 60 pounds per bushel ; and flour from this region has preference in the New-Or- 
 leans market, and passes better inspection than the same article from Ohio or Ken- 
 tucky. In 1825, the weave], for the first time, made its appearance in St. Clair 
 and the adjacent counties, and has occasionally renewed its visits since. Within 
 the last two seasons, some fields have been injured by the fly. 
 
 Wheat is sowed about the middle of September ; spring wheat, as soon as the 
 ground can be ploughed in the spring. The harvest is about the middle of July, for 
 winter wheat; for spring wheat, in August. Prairie ground is the best for this 
 grain, the crop being sometimes 35 bushels ; though about 25 is the average pro- 
 duct in good seasons. The average price of wheat is one dollar to one dollar and 
 twenty-five cents per bushel, varying a little according to the competition of mills 
 and facilities to market. In many instances a single crop of wheat will pay the 
 expenses of purchasing the land, fencing, breaking the prairie, seed, putting in the 
 crop, harvesting, threshing, and taking it to market. Wheat is now frequently 
 sown on the prairie land as a first crop, and a good yield obtained. Flouring-mills 
 are now in operation in many of the wheat-growing counties. Steam-power is 
 getting into extensive use both for sawing and manufacturing flour. 
 
 Oats have not been much raised till lately. They are very productive, often 
 yielding from forty to fifty bushels on the acre, and usually sell at from twenty to 
 thirty cents the bushel. The demand for the use of stage and travellers' horses is 
 increasing. Hemp is an indigenous plant in the southern part of this state, as it is 
 in Missouri. It has not been extensively cultivated, but wherever tried, is found 
 very productive, and of excellent quality. It might be made a staple of the 
 country. 
 
 Tobacco can be produced in any quantity, and of the first quality, in Illinois ; 
 the soil and climate being in every respect congenial to its growth. 
 
 Cotton, for many years, has been successfully cultivated in this state for domes- 
 tic use, and some for exportation. Two or three spinning factories are in operation, 
 and produce cotton yarn from the growth of the country with promising success. 
 This branch of business admits of enlargement, and invites the attention of east- 
 ern manufacturers with small capital. Much of the cloth made in families who 
 have emigrated from states south of the Ohio, is from the cotton of the country. 
 Flax is produced, and of a tolerable quality, but not equal to that of the northern 
 states. It is said to be productive and good in the northern counties. There is an 
 oil-mill to manufacture oil from the seed, in Sangamon county. The palma christi, 
 or castor-oil bean, is produced in considerable quantities in Madison, Randolph, and 
 other counties, and large quantities of oil are expressed and sent abroad. Sweet 
 potatoes are a delicious root, and yield abundantly, especially on the American 
 Bottom, and rich sandy prairies. 
 
 The cultivation of tlie sugar beet root, and the manufacture of the sugar, can 
 without doubt be carried on to advantage in this state. Gentlemen who have had 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 45 
 
 an opportunity of examining personally the land in France on which that root is 
 grown, consider the prairie Jand of Illinois much superior for that purpose. In the 
 former country, from eight to twelve dollars rent per acre is annually paid, and yet 
 large profits are made. An acre of good land will produce 41,0U0 pounds of beet 
 root, from which 2400 pounds of sugar can be extracted, which, at 10 cents a pound, 
 amounts to 240 dollars per acre. The annexed extracts on the cultivation of the 
 sugar beet root, are from a letter written by D. L. Childs, Esq., who went to Europe 
 under the auspices of a company incorporated by the legislature of Illinois, with a 
 capital of 200,000 dollars, tor the purpose of introducing the manufacture of beet 
 sugar into this state. The letter is dated from Arras, in France, Jan. 9tli, 1837. 
 
 " The most interesting aspect of the beet sugar business, is its bearing upon 
 agriculture and rural economy : 
 
 " 1. It enriches the land both as an excellent substitute for fallowing, and as pro- 
 ducing an immense quantity of capital manure. 
 
 "2. It has the latter effect in various ways, but principally by feeding a large 
 number of cattle and sheep. The former are fatted in from three to three and a 
 half months in a manner really superb. So fine specimens of beef-creatures are 
 seldom seen in the United States, after six months of the best pasturing and stall- 
 feeding. The sheep are fatted in six weeks. At the manufactory where I have 
 been, they pay on an average about six louis for cuttle, and sell them for about ele- 
 ven. A louis is about $4.37. I suppose that this branch of the business would be 
 quite as lucrative in the United States, where stock animals may be bought some- 
 what cheaper. This you see is doubling capital three times a year, with the help 
 however of the pulp or pumice of the beet. This can be kept good any desirable 
 length of time. It is sold here at 10 cents the cwt. 
 
 "3. The profit of raising the beets is very great, according to estimates which I 
 have from intelligent sources. My data makes the net gain in France, after pay- 
 ing rent, ploughing, weeding, hoeing, digging, and preserving, 404 francs per hec- 
 tare. This measure is a trifle over two English acres. Consequently the profit 
 of cultivating beets on an acre, will be 202 francs, about $^38. Can you wonder 
 that land has risen from 50 to 150 per cent, in the districts of the sugar manufacto- 
 ries ? The wages of labour for cultivating and manufacturing the produce of a 
 hectare, amount to $56.81. This would give for 100 acres .$2840 nearly ; and for 
 400, which would be the quantity required for the largest establishments, $11,830, 
 to say nothing of the proprietor or leaseholder, when he and the labourer are one 
 and the same. In this case, besides getting pay for his labour, and the rent or in- 
 terest of his land, he would receive the $38 profit per acre. 
 
 " The most material point in the culture of the beet root, is the manner of pre- 
 paring the land. It must be ploughed eight inches deep at least, and this ought to 
 be done in the month of August. Still, fine crops of beets have been obtained by 
 breaking up grass-ground in the spring, immediately before the seeding. The land 
 should be turned up handsomely, and all the grass and other vegetable matter fairly 
 deposited underneath. Then it must be harrowed deep and fine, but the same way 
 with the furrows. If the furrows be disturbed, it spoils or greatly injures the crop. 
 The seed is to be sown in rows, 20 inches apart, on the top of the furrows, and the 
 same way with them. No plough must enter after the sowing, but the land must 
 be dressed from two to four times, according to its tendency to weediness, with the 
 hand and hoe. The vegetable matters decay, and give their whole nourishment 
 to the beets. I suppose these remarks may be of less consequence to the proprie- 
 tors of rich prairies of the west, than to those of the lands in Prance, and in the 
 northern and middle states of America. There can be no doubt, however, that 
 the decomposition of fresh vegetable matter will afl^brd a more active stimulus to 
 vegetable life than old mould, iiowever rich. The land for beets must be good, — 
 but it may be too good. In this case, it will produce beets of an enormous size, but 
 hollow and decayed, and aftbrding less saccharine matter than smaller ones. Very 
 poor land made rich by high manuring, is said to yield large beets, containing a 
 great deal of potash and sal ammoniac, but very little sugar. At the first weeding, 
 when the beets are about 1 or 1^ inches high, they must be thinned so as to 
 leave one plant to every 12 or 13 inches of row. If there be spaces where the 
 
46 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 seed has not come up, some of the plants pulled up should be transplanted into 
 those spaces." 
 
 But little lias been done to introduce cultivated grasses. The prairie grass 
 looks coarse and unsavoury, and yet horses and cattle thrive well on it. It is well 
 known that this grass disappears when the settlements extend round a prairie, and 
 the cattle eat off' the young growth in the spring. Consequently, in a few years, 
 the natural grass no longer exists. To produce timothy with success, the ground 
 must be well cultivated in the summer, either by an early crop, or by fallowing, 
 and the seed sown about the 20th of September, at the rate of ten or twelve quarts 
 of clean seed to the acre, and lightly brushed in. If the season is in any way fa- 
 vourable, it will get a rapid start before winter. By the last week in June, it will 
 produce two tons per acre, of the finest hay. It then requires a dressing of stable 
 or yard manure, and occasionally the turf may be scratched with a harrow, to pre- 
 vent the roots from binding too hard. By this process timothy meadows may be 
 made and preserved. There are meadows in St. Clair county which have yielded 
 heavy crops of hay in succession, for several years, and bid tair to continue for an 
 indefinite period. Cattle, and especially horses, should never be permitted to run 
 in meadows in Illinois. The fall grass may be cropped down by calves and colts. 
 There is but a little more labour required to produce a crop of timothy than a crop 
 of oats : and as there is not a stone or a pebble to interrupt, the soil may be turned 
 up every third or fourth year for corn, and afterwards laid down to grass again. 
 A species of blue grass is cultivated by some farmers for pastures. If well set, 
 and not eaten down in summer, blue grass pastures may be kept green and fresh 
 till late in autumn, or even in the winter. The English spire grass has been cul- 
 tivated with success in the Wabash country. 
 
 Of the trefoil, or clover, there is but little cultfvated. A prejudice exists against 
 it, as it is imagined to injure horses by affecting the glands of the mouth, and 
 causing them to slaver. It grows luxuriantly, and may be cut for hay early in 
 June. The white clover comes in naturally, where the ground has been cultivated, 
 and thrown by, or along the sides of old roads and paths. Clover pastures would 
 be excellent for swine. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 The climate of Illinois is such as would be naturally expected from the latitude. 
 The thermometer does not range more widely here than in similar parallels east 
 of the Allegheny mountains ; nor perhaps as much so as in those districts beyond 
 the influence of the sea-breeze. There is every day a breeze, from some quarter 
 of the broad prairies, almost as refreshing as that from the ocean. The region is 
 exempt, too, from the effects of the easterly winds, so chilling and so annoying 
 along the Atlantic sea-board ; but in lieu of them, there are frequently cold blasts 
 from the prairies, sufficiently annoying to the traveller, when the mercury is at 
 zero. 
 
 The winter commences with December, and ends the second week of February. 
 Its duration and temperature are variable ; sometimes warm, and at others cold. 
 The winters generally exhibit a temperaturo of climate somewhat milder than 
 that of the northern Atlantic states. Snow rarely falls to the depth of six inches, 
 and as rarely remains more than ten or twelve days. There are, however, occa- 
 sional short periods of very cold weather; but they seldom continue longer than 
 three or four days at a time. The Mississippi is sometimes frozen over and passed 
 on the ice at St. Louis, and occasionally for several weeks together. The year 
 1811 was remarkable for the river closing over twice, — a circumstance which had 
 not occurred before within the memory of the oldest inhabitant What may be 
 considered winter weather does not usually continue longer than from ten to 
 twelve weeks; during more than half of which period, the ground frequently 
 remains unfrozen. 
 
 Near the Mississippi, the wind often blows alternately from the north and south, 
 producing a succession of snow, neither deep nor of long continuance, frost, sleet, 
 and a relaxing mildness; when the beautiful red bird, the cardinal grosbeak, shows 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 47 
 
 himself, and in singing, his charming lays resemble the lofty notes of the fife, being 
 nearly as loud and as sonorous. From actual observation, Fahrenheit's thermome- 
 ter, both at St. Louis and Harmony on the Wabash river opposite the southern part 
 of the state, the mercury has sometimes fallen below zero. 
 
 It may be noticed, that in making observations with the thermometer, they are 
 made too often almost exclusively whilst the sun is above the horizon, and therefore 
 do not give the mean of all the astronomical day, but that of daylight only ; and 
 consequently the far greater number of places are represented as having a mean 
 temperature too high. It is doubtful whether any part of Illinois has in reality a 
 mean temperature of more than 54° of Fahrenheit, and that the mean of the whole 
 state is not over 51°. From a series of observations made at St. Louis during the 
 years I8I7-I8-19, the mean temperature of the different seasons was as follows : 
 winter 34.53, spring 5-1.17, summer 74.34, autumn 60.77: mean for the whole 
 year, 56.09. This will tbrm a criterion for the southern half of Illinois. July is 
 invariably the hottest month, and in a few instances the thermometer has been 
 known to rise for a short time to 100°, and sometimes in June and August to 96°. 
 
 The rains which succeed the breaking up of the Mississippi generally continue 
 at intervals through the greater part of February and March, and constitute what 
 is called the rainy months. The first spring months are therefore frequently disa- 
 greeable and cheerless ; and the emigrant who arrives in Illinois during this time 
 forms a most unfavourable opinion of its climate ; but as soon as the rains subside, 
 he is delighted with the contrast. The forests now put forth their foliage, the 
 prairies are covered witii their brilliant carpets, and all nature around him appears 
 to smile : he is fanned by a gentler and more fragrant breeze, and is covered by a 
 bluer and more beautiful sky than those to which he has been accustomed. 
 
 The summers are warm, though during the sultry months the intensity of heat 
 is modified by a free course everywhere afforded to a fine genial breeze, constantly 
 giving to the atmosphere a refreshing elasticity. During this season, the appear- 
 ance of the country is gay and beautiful, being clothed with grass, foliage, and 
 flowers. 
 
 Of all the seasons of the year, the autumn is the most delightful. The heat of 
 the summer is over by the middle of August; and from that time till December, 
 there is almost one continuous succession of bright, clear, delightful sunny days. 
 Nothinjr can exceed the beauty of summer and autumn in this country, where, on 
 one hand, we have the expansive prairie strewed with flowers still growing; and 
 on the other, the forests which skirt it, presenting all the varieties of colour inci- 
 dent to the fading foliage of a thousand different trees. 
 
 About the middle of October or beginning of November, the Indian summer 
 commences, and continues from fifteen to twenty days. During this time, the 
 weather is dull and cheerless, the atmosphere is smoky, and the sun and moon are 
 sometimes almost totally obscured. It is generally supposed that this is caused by 
 the burning of the withered grass and herbs on the extensive prairies of the north 
 and west, which also accounts for its increased duration as we proceed westward. 
 
 Winds. — During the spring, summer, and autumn, south-westerly winds are the 
 most prevalent ; these are sometimes warm and arid, at others cool and humid. 
 They seldom, however, cause heavy rains. In the spring and during the rise of 
 the Missouri, they are from a more westerly direction, and rains are often more 
 frequent. West and north-west winds prevail during the months of December and 
 January. Although these are generally dry and piercing, they frequently accom- 
 pany storms of hail and snow. North and north-east winds are comparatively rare. 
 The latter usually bring heavy rains. 
 
 DISEASES. 
 
 The more common diseases of Illinois are intermittents, frequently accompanied 
 with bilious symptoms. Those which prove fatal in sickly seasons are bilious re- 
 mittents. More than one-half of the sickness endured by the people is caused by 
 imprudence, bad management, and the want of proper nursing. Emigrants from 
 the northern states or from Europe will find it advantageous to protect themselves 
 
48 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 from the cool and humid atmosphere at night, to provide close dwellings, yet, 
 when the atmosphere is clear, to have their rooms, and especially their sleeping 
 rooms, well ventilated, and invariably wear thin clothing in the day, and put on 
 thicker apparel at night or when exposed to wet. 
 
 Families are seldom sick who live in comfortable houses with tight floors and 
 well-ventilated rooms, and who upon a change of weather, and especially in a time 
 of rain, make a little fire in the chimney, though it may be in the midst of summer. 
 Tliere are but few cases of genuine consumption. Affection of the liver is 
 more common. Pleurisies, and other inflammatory diseases, prevail in tlie winter 
 and spring. Ophthalmia prevails at some seasons. Dysentery is not uncommon. 
 Fewer die in infancy than in the old states. 
 
 In several parts of the west, and occasionally in Illinois, a disease prevails, 
 which has received the appellation of "sick stomach," from its prominent symp- 
 toms, nausea and frequent vomiting, especially on taking exercise. It is also called 
 "milk sickness," from an opinion that it is produced by the milk of cows, which 
 have fed on some poisonous plant. It has likewise been ascribed to the water of 
 certain springs, and to marshy exhalations. The cause, however, seems not to be 
 exactly known, and the disease appears to be vanishing. 
 
 That the Western States are not unfavourable to human life, may be inferred 
 from the unprecedented increase in their population. The number of inhabitants 
 in Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri, is proba- 
 bly near four millions. Had they been unhealthy, it is quite incredible that in the 
 short period of half a century, so great a number could have congregated within 
 those commonwealths. Were the climate especially fatal to emigrants, the num- 
 ber cut ofl^, and the number repelled, must have given a ratio of increase far be- 
 neath that which has actually existed. As to a seasoning or acclimation, it is 
 doubtful whether in the temperate Mississippi states, it has any existence. At Cin- 
 cinnati, it can seldom be perceived. When formidable and fatal diseases have pre- 
 vailed, they have as often attacked those long resident in the city, as the 'new 
 comers ;' and nothing is more common, than to see persons arrive at all periods 
 of tlie spring, snmmer, and early autumn, and still enjoy as good health as if they 
 had entered its atmosphere at the winter solstice. 
 
 Travellers and ' movers' should be cautious against much journeying in Septem- 
 ber and early October, when bilious fevers prevail ; for, however secure they 
 might be, if they could be transferred, without a journey, to a western town, the 
 usual process of reaching it in autumn, over land, the necessary mode when the 
 waters are low, is apt to generate serious diseases. 
 
 CIVIL DIVISIONS. 
 
 There are seventy counties within the state, in sixty of which courts are held. 
 In the others, the judge of the circuit where they lie is authorized to organize 
 them, by appointing an election for county officers whenever in his opinion there 
 are three hundred and fifty inhabitants within their boundaries. Their names, 
 dates of formation, number of square miles, population according to the state census 
 of 1835 (with the estimation of certain counties since formed, marked thus *), 
 and seats of justice, are given in the following table. 
 
 Counties. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Square 
 Miles. 
 
 Population 
 in 1835. 
 
 Seats of Justice. 
 
 Adams, - - - - 
 
 1825 
 
 800 
 
 7,042 
 
 Quincy. 
 
 Alexander^ - - - 
 
 1819 
 
 378 
 
 2,050 
 
 Unity. 
 
 Bond, .... 
 
 1817 
 
 360 
 
 3,580 
 
 Greenville. 
 
 Boone,* - . . - 
 
 1837 
 
 504 
 
 600 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Calhoun, ... 
 
 1825 
 
 264 
 
 1,091 
 
 Guilford. 
 
 Cass,* .... 
 
 1837 
 
 260 
 
 6,500 
 
 Beardstown. 
 
 Champaign,* - - 
 
 1833 
 
 1008 
 
 1,250 
 
 Urbanna. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 49 
 
 TABLE— continued. 
 
 Counties. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Square 
 Miles. 
 
 Population 
 in 1835. 
 
 Seats of Justice. 
 
 Clark, - - - - 
 
 1819 
 
 500 
 
 3,413 
 
 Darwin. 
 
 Clay, 
 
 1824 
 
 620 
 
 1,648 
 
 Maysville. 
 
 Clinton, - - - - 
 
 1824 
 
 504 
 
 2,648 
 
 Carlyle. 
 
 Coles, .... 
 
 1830 
 
 1233 
 
 5,125 
 
 Charleston. 
 
 Cook, .... 
 
 18.31 
 
 1220 
 
 7,500 
 
 Chicago. 
 
 Crawford, ... 
 
 1816 
 
 400 
 
 3,540 
 
 Palestine. 
 
 Edgar, .... 
 
 1823 
 
 660 
 
 6,668 
 
 Paris. 
 
 Edwards, - . - 
 
 1814 
 
 355 
 
 2,006 
 
 Albion. 
 
 Effingham, - - . 
 
 1831 
 
 486 
 
 1,055 
 
 Ewington. 
 
 Fayette, .... 
 
 1821 
 
 684 
 
 3,638 
 
 Vandalia. 
 
 Franklin, - - - 
 
 1818 
 
 804 
 
 5,551 
 
 Frankfort. 
 
 Fulton, .... 
 
 1825 
 
 864 
 
 5,917 
 
 Lewistown. 
 
 Gallatin, ... 
 
 1812 
 
 750 
 
 8,660 
 
 Equality. 
 
 Greene, - . - . 
 
 1821 
 
 900 
 
 12,274 
 
 Carrollton. 
 
 Hamilton, - - - 
 
 1821 
 
 432 
 
 2,877 
 
 M'Leansborough. 
 
 Hancock, - - . 
 
 1825 
 
 800 
 
 3,249 
 
 Carthage. 
 
 Henry,* - . . - 
 
 1825 
 
 840 
 
 600 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Iroquois,* ... 
 
 1833 
 
 1428 
 
 1,800 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Jackson, . - . - 
 
 1816 
 
 565 
 
 2,783 
 
 Brownsville. 
 
 Jasper,* - - - . 
 
 1831 
 
 506 
 
 375 
 
 Newton. 
 
 Jetferson, ... 
 
 1819 
 
 576 
 
 3,350 
 
 Mount Vernon. 
 
 Jo Daviess,* . - 
 
 1827 
 
 950 
 
 4,350 
 
 Galena. 
 
 Johnson, - - . - 
 
 1812 
 
 486 
 
 2,166 
 
 Vienna. 
 
 Kane,* - . - - 
 
 1836 
 
 1297 
 
 1,500 
 
 Geneva. 
 
 Knox, - - - - 
 
 1825 
 
 792 
 
 1,600 
 
 Knoxville. 
 
 La Salle, - - . 
 
 1831 
 
 1872 
 
 4,754 
 
 Ottawa. 
 
 Lawrence, - . . 
 
 1821 
 
 560 
 
 4,450 
 
 Lawrenceville. 
 
 Livingston,* - - 
 
 1837 
 
 1152 
 
 750 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Macon, - . - - 
 
 1829 
 
 1404 
 
 3,022 
 
 Decatur. 
 
 Macoupin, - - - 
 
 1829 
 
 864 
 
 5,554 
 
 Carlinville. 
 
 Madison, - - . 
 
 1812 
 
 750 
 
 9,016 
 
 Ed wards ville. 
 
 Marion, - - - - 
 
 1823 
 
 576 
 
 2,844 
 
 Salem. 
 
 M'Donough, - - 
 
 1825 
 
 576 
 
 2,883 
 
 Macomb. 
 
 M'Henry,* - - . 
 
 1836 
 
 1100 
 
 1,200 
 
 Not established. 
 
 M'Lean, - - - - 
 
 1830 
 
 1296 
 
 5,311 
 
 Bloomington. 
 
 Mercer,* ... 
 
 1825 
 
 550 
 
 800 
 
 New Boston. 
 
 Monroe, - . - - 
 
 1816 
 
 360 
 
 2,660 
 
 Waterloo. 
 
 Montgomery, . . 
 
 1821 
 
 954 
 
 3,740 
 
 Hillsborough. 1 
 
 Morgan, - - - . 
 
 1823 
 
 800 
 
 16,500 
 
 Jacksonville. 1 
 
 Ogle, 
 
 1836 
 
 1440 
 
 2,000 
 
 Oregon City, 
 
 Peoria,* - - - . 
 
 1825 
 
 612 
 
 7,000 
 
 Peoria. 
 
 Perry, .... 
 
 1827 
 
 432 
 
 2,201 
 
 Pinckneyville. 
 
 Pike, 
 
 1821 
 
 780 
 
 6,037 
 
 Pittsfield. 
 
 Pope, .... 
 
 1816 
 
 576 
 
 3,756 
 
 Golconda. 
 
 Putnam, - - - . 
 
 1825 
 
 1548 
 
 4,021 
 
 Hennepin. 
 
 Randolph, - . . 
 
 1795 
 
 520 
 
 5,695 
 
 Kaskaskia. 
 
 Rock Island,* - - 
 
 1831 
 
 432 
 
 1,500 
 
 Stephenson. 
 
 Sangamon, ... 
 
 1821 
 
 2160 
 
 17,573 
 
 Springfield. 
 
 Schuyler, ... 
 
 1825. 
 
 864 
 
 6,361 
 
 Rushville. 
 
 Shelby, ... - 
 
 1827 
 
 1080 
 
 4,848 
 
 Shelbyville. 
 
 St. Clair, - - - 
 
 1795 
 
 684 
 
 9,055 
 
 Belleville. 
 
 Stephenson, - - 
 
 1837 
 
 567 
 
 400 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Tazewell, - - - 
 
 1827 
 
 1220 
 
 5,a50 
 
 Tremont. 
 
50 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 TABLE — continued. 
 
 Counties. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Square 
 Miles 
 
 Population 
 ill lb35. 
 
 Seats of Justice. 
 
 Union, - - - - 
 
 1818 
 
 396 
 
 4,156 
 
 Jonesborough. 
 
 Vermillion, - - - 
 
 1826 
 
 1008 
 
 8,103 
 
 Danville. 
 
 Wabash, . - - 
 
 1824 
 
 180 
 
 3,010 
 
 iMount Carmel. 
 
 Warren, - - - - 
 
 1825 
 
 900 
 
 2;623 
 
 Monmouth. 
 
 Washington, - - 
 
 1S13 
 
 MO 
 
 3,292 
 
 Nashville. 
 
 Wayne, - - - - 
 
 1819 
 
 5T6 
 
 2,939 
 
 Fairfield. 
 
 White, - - - - 
 
 1815 
 
 476 
 
 6,489 
 
 Carmi. 
 
 Whiteside,* - - 
 
 1836 
 
 712 
 
 1,500 
 
 Not established. 
 
 Will,* .... 
 
 1836 
 
 1320 
 
 3,500 
 
 Juliet. 
 
 Winnebag-o,* - - 
 
 1836 
 
 504 
 
 1,200 
 
 Not established. 
 
 The present population of Illinois (September 1837) may be estimated at 400,000. 
 For the purpose of electing representatives to Congress, the state is divided into tliree 
 districts, each of which sends one representative. For judiciary purposes the state is 
 divided into seven circuits, in each of which a circuit judge is appouited. Coun- 
 ties are not subdivided into townships, as in Indiana, Ohio, and the more eastern 
 states. For the convenience of holding elections, the county commissioners' court 
 is required to divide the county into *• precincts," and designate the house or place 
 in each precinct where the polls shall be opened. Electors throughout the county 
 vote at which precinct they please. 
 
 GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The constitution of Illinois was formed by a convention held at Kaskaskia, in 
 August, 1818. It provides for the distribution of the powers of government into 
 three distinct departments, — the legislative, executive, and judiciary. Tiie legis- 
 lative authority is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and house 
 of representatives. Elections are held biennially, as are the ordinary sessions of 
 the legislature. Senators are elected for four years. The executive power is 
 vested in the governor, who is elected every fourth year by the electors for repre- 
 sentatives, but the same person is ineligible for the next succeeding four years. 
 The lieutenant-governor is also chosen every four years. The judicial power is 
 vested in a supreme court, and such inferior courts as the general assembly from 
 time to time shall establish. The supreme court consists of a chief justice and 
 three associate judges. The governor and judges of the supreme court constitute 
 a council of revision, to which all bills that have passed the assembly must be sub- 
 mitted. If objected to by the council of revision, the same may become a law by 
 the vote of the majority of all the members elected to both houses. 
 
 The right of suffrage is universal. All white male inhabitants, twenty-one 
 years of age, who have resided within the state six months next preceding the 
 elections, enjoy the right of electors. Votes are given viva voce. The introduc- 
 tion of slavery is prohibited. The constitution can be altered only by a convention. 
 
 The whole ordinary annual expenditurse of the state are about .53,700 dollars. 
 The revenue of the state is derived principally from land taxes. The tax on lands 
 of residents goes into the county treasuries, for county purposes, while the tax on 
 the lands of non-residents goes into the state treasury for state purposes. The 
 quantity of land subject to taxation on the first of August, 1836, was 5,335,041 
 acres. And the quantity subject to taxation 
 
 In 1837 wUl be 5,674,452 
 
 In 1838 5,902,127 
 
 In 1839 6,262,367 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS, 51 
 
 In 1S40 6,616,3S0 
 
 In IS41 7,-?37,-21S 
 
 And in IS42 about 1-J,000,000 
 
 Lands sold by the general government are not subject to taxation under five 
 years after purchase. 
 
 PUBLIC LAi\D& 
 
 The greater portion of the unoccupied lands of the United States constitute the 
 national domain, and is of course under the control of the general government. 
 These lands consist of tracts of country ceded to the nation by the several states ; 
 of the lands iu the territory of Louisiana purchased from France, and of those in 
 Florida obtained by purchase from Spain. Atter thus acquiring a claim to wild 
 lands, from tlie individual states or foreign powers, the Indian title to the soil is 
 next e.\tiiiguished, by purchasing it from the native tribes by whom it is respec- 
 tively occupied. 
 
 The lands are then surveyed on an accurate plan, and according to a general 
 system ; allerwards they are offered for sale by proclamation of the President, and, 
 by law, must be sold by public auction, the minimum price being one dollar twen- 
 tive cents an acre, ready money. One section in each township is reserved for the 
 support of schools in the township, and all salt-springs and lead-mines are reserved 
 from sale, unless by special order of the President. The minimum price of the 
 public lands was at first fixed at two dollars per acre, one-half to be paid within 
 thirty days, the residue one year atler the sale ; in 1800, the term of credit was 
 very much extended, and in IS'20 the purchasers were in debt to the government j 
 more than •2'-2,000,(XIO dollars. At that period the present system of cash payments 
 was adopted, under which the annual proceeds of the sales have increased from 
 I,I67,-2-25 dollars to 6,099,981 in 18;M, to upwards of I-2,000,0(X) in 1835, and in 
 183(3 they had increased to the astonishing sum of i24,lX)0,OLK) dollars. The in- 
 crease of population in the Western States, the extensive hitroduction of steam- 
 vessels on the rivers and lakes, and the increased facilities of intercourse and 
 transportation by rail-roads and canals, have concurred with the extraordinary high 
 price of cotton, in producing this wonderful result. 
 
 The surve\'s of the public lands of the United States are founded upon a series 
 of true meridians which run north principally from the mouth of some noted river. I 
 These are intersected at right angles with lines running from east to west, called [ 
 base lines. There are five principal meridians in the land surveys of the west. ' 
 The " first principal meridian" is a line due north from the month of the Miami , 
 river, which also forms the boundary line between the states of Ohio and Indiana, 
 The "second principal meridian" is a line north from a point on the Ohio river 
 ten miles below tlie mouth of Little Blue river, in Indiana. The ''third princi- 
 pal meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Ohio. The '-fourth prin- 
 cipal meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of the Illinois. The "fifth 
 principal meridian" is a line due north from the mouth of White river in Ar- 
 kansas. 
 
 Each of these meridians has its own base line, which forms the base of a series 
 of surveys of which lines are made to correspond, so that the whole country is at 
 last divided into squares of one mile eacli, and townships of si.\ miles each, and 
 these subdivisions are distributed with mathematical accuracy into parallel ranges. 
 
 The greatest divisions of land marked out by the survey is called a township, 
 and contains 23,040 acres, being six miles square. The township is subdivided 
 into thirty-six equal portions or square miles, by lines crossing each other at right 
 angles. These portions are called sections, each containing 640 acres, which are 
 subdivided into four parts called quarter-sections, each of which, of course, con- 
 tains one hundred and sixty acres. The quarter-sections are finally divided into 
 two parts, called half-quarter-sections, of eighty acres each ; these again are under 
 certain conditions sold in equal subdivisions of forty acres each, which is the 
 smallest amount of the public lands disposed of by the general government Any 
 person, whether a native-born citizen or a foreisrner, may thus purchase forty acres 
 of the richest soil, and receive an indisputable title, for fifty dollars. The sectional 
 
GE>'ER-\L VIEW OF 
 
 and quarter-sectional divisions are designated by appropriate marks in the field. 
 which are of a character to be easily distioo-uished from each other. U near tim- 
 ber, trees are marked and numbered with the section, township, and ran^^, near 
 each sectional corner. If in a large prairie, a mound is raised to desig^nate the 
 corner, and a billet of charred wood buried, if no rock is near. 
 
 Sections are divided into halves by a line drawn north and south, and into quar- 
 ters by a transverse line. The hali'-quarter and quarter-quarter-sections are not 
 marked in the field, but are designated on the plot of the survey by the Surveyor- 
 General marking the distance on one of the ascertained lines, in order to get the . 
 quantity of such half-quarter-sections as exhibited by his plot of survey. 
 
 Fractional sections arc parts of quarter-sections intersected by streams, confirmed 
 claims, or Indian boundaries. The parts of townships, sections, quarters, &c. made 
 at the lines of either townships or meridians, are called excesses or deficiencies. 
 The fractional sections which contain less than IGO acres are not subdivided. The 
 fractional sections, wiiich contain 160 acres and upward?, are subdivided in such 
 manner as to preserve the most compact and convenient forms. A series of con- 
 I tiguous townships, laid ofi' from east to west, is called a range. These are num- 
 bered east and west from the principal meridian running due north and south. 
 Townships are counted either north or south from their respective base lines. 
 
 Sections, or miles square, are numbered, beginning in the north-east comer of 
 the township, progressively west to the range line, and then progressively east to 
 the range line, alFernately, terminating at fhe south-east comer of the township, 
 from one to thirty-sis, as in the annexed diagram : 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 •^ 
 
 3 
 
 •T 
 
 1 ' 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 1- 
 
 16^ 
 
 lo 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 , 19 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 .->.-i 
 
 Co 
 
 24 
 
 a. 
 
 09 
 
 2S 
 
 o- 
 
 26 
 
 2-3 
 
 31 
 
 3-2 
 
 33 
 
 34 
 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 The following will serve as a specimen of the nomenclature by which lots of 
 land may be indicated in the system of the public land surveys : — The north-east 
 division in the larger diagram would be designated as Section one, say of Town- 
 ship four, in Range three, east from the third principal meridian, and would con- 
 
 i tain 640 acres. The smaller diagrams numbered 1, 2, 3 and 4, represent sections 
 
 ' divided into portions of 320, 160. SO, and 40 acres each, respectively. The dark- 
 ened division in Xa 1 would be designated as the east halt" of Section one, of 
 Township four, in Range three east from the third principal meridian, and would 
 contain 32t^ acres; the darkened division in Xa2 would be the north-east quarter 
 of Section one. Township and Rangre as before, and would be a tract of 160 acres. 
 
 \ The darkened division in Xo, 3 would be styled the east half of the nort!'.-east 
 quarter of Section one. Township and Range as before, and would contain H^ acres ; 
 the darkened division in Na 4 would be the north-east quarter of the norta-t?ast 
 quarter of Section one. Township and Range as before, and would be a tract of 
 40 acres. This is the smallest portion of" the public lands sold by the general go- 
 
 : vemment. 
 
 ' The foregoing explanation will serve to exhibit the simplicity of a system, that 
 to strangers unacquainted with tiie method of numbering the sections, and the va- 
 rious subdivisions, appears perplexing and confused. 
 
 By this admirable system, all the townships and subdivisions are in regular 
 
 * Appropriated for schools in the towiish:^. 
 
THE STATE. OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 matbeontkal ferms, pa-ecluding^ the fruitful source of litigation, arising tV; 
 uncertainty of butts and IxHinds, in tortus with cur^•e, meandering or zigza:^ .'.nes. 
 Ttiese ft>rms. so universal in farms of tiie old settlements, are not ouiy ditncult 
 
 - =" ""^ ^'' adjustment between contiguous owTiers, and exceedui^ly inconvenient 
 
 _-. but are unsightly and o^ensive to the eye. It is inconcei>"able that 
 ■..:ul square forms of the present land system should not have been sug- 
 gested to the drst settlers of the United States^ 
 
 The land sales unite three essential objects : the right of selection by the high- 
 est bidder at the p».ibiic sales, extreme cheapness at the private sales, and a title 
 of clearness and unquestionable surety commensurate with the stability of the 
 government The convenience and excellence of this system constitute an essen- 
 tial element in the rapid population of the new states. The surveys connected 
 with the third and fourth meridians, and a small portion oi' the second, o: '_ ., 
 the state of Illinois. The base line for both the second and third princip. 
 dians commences at Diamond Island, in the Ohio, opposite Indiana, and runs cue 
 west till it strikes the Mississippi, a few miles below St. Louis. | 
 
 All the to^vnships in Illinois, south and east of the Illinois river, are nii:. '?;- 
 from this base lice either north or south. The third principal meridian te- 
 with the northern boundary of the state. The fourth principal meridian cc.iUic 
 ces on the right bank, and at the mouth of tae Illinois river, but immetiiately , 
 crosses to the east shore, and passes up on that side, (and at one place nearly 14 
 miles distant.) to a poiat in the channel of the river, 7"2 miles from its mouth. \ 
 Here its base line commences and extends across the peninsula to the Mississippi, 
 • 5-.ort distance above Quiucy. The fourth principal meridian is continued north- 
 v,ir',i through the military tract, and across Rock river, to a curve in the Missis- [ 
 
 - \ at the upper rapids, in Township IS north, and about 1"2 or 1-5 miles above ; 
 .. •: A Island. It here crosses and passes up the west side of the Mississippi river 1 
 
 .'.Jes, and recrcsses into Illinois, and passes through the town of Galena to the ; 
 ""-■em boundary of the state. It is thence continued to the Wisconsin river and i 
 Je the principal meridian tor the surveys of the territory, while the northern i 
 ;:.j.ary line of the state is constituted its base line tor that region. A large tract 
 :: :n"r]-- in the north and oorth-eastera portion of this state is yet unsurveved. 
 . ^ ^ aot preveutthe hardy pioneers of the west from taking possession, where 
 '-''--■ ■- -xtinct. as it is now to all lands within this state. They risk 
 -iing it when brought into market. 
 
 r„_ - .....,- j.re laid off into districts, in each of which there is a land-of^ 
 
 dee under the supermtendence of two officers appointed by the Presitient and Se- 
 nate, called the Reirister of the hnd-oi5ce, and the Receiver of public moneys. 
 The Register and Receiver each receive a salary (^' dOO dollars per annum, and a 
 Lvmmissioa of one per cent, on the moneys paid into their ofice. In the slate of 
 is there are ten land-offices in as many districts, open for the sale or entry of 
 ;>: lands. 
 The Land District of Shawneetown embraces that portion of the state, bounded 
 north by the base line, east and south by the boundaries o( the state, and west by 
 the third principal meridian. Office tor the entry and sale of lands at Shawnee- 
 towru 
 
 The Land District of Easkaskia is bounded north by the base line, and com{HV>- 
 hends all that port of the state that lies between the third principal meridian and 
 the Mississippi. Land office at Kaskaskia. 
 
 The Land District of Edwardsville extends south to the base line, east to the 
 third principal meridian, north to the line that separates the thirteenth and four- 
 teenth Townships, north and west to the MLssissippL Land office at EAiwardsville. 
 The Land District of Vandalia extends south to the base lin«», east to the line 
 between Ranges eight and nine, east of the third principal meridian, north to the 
 louth lipe of Springfield district, and west to the Ranse line between Ranges 
 second and third west ot' the third principal meridian. Land-office at Vandalia. 
 
 The Land District of Palestine extends south to the northern boundarv of the 
 Shawneetown distr.ct. w^^r t,-' t.'ie eastern boutidarv of Vandalia district, north to 
 
54 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 the dividing line between Townships sixteen and seventeen north, and east to the 
 boundary of Indiana. 
 
 The Land District of Springfield extends south to Edwardsville district, CEist to 
 the Palestine and Danville districts, and north and west to the Illinois river. 
 
 The Land District of Quincy embraces all the tract of country between the Illi- 
 nois and Mississippi rivers to the line between Townships twelve and thirteen 
 north and west of the third principal meridian. 
 
 The Land District of Danville includes that part of the state to its northern 
 boundary, which lies north of Palestine, to the line between T. 30 and 31 N. of 
 the tliird meridian, and east of Springfield district. 
 
 North-west District is in the north-western portion of the state, and bounded 
 south by tiie line between Townships twelve and thirteen north, on the military 
 tract, and oast by the line between Ranges three and four east of the third princi- 
 pal meridian, and north by the northern boundary of the state. Land-office at 
 Galena. 
 
 North-east District is in the north-east portion of the state, and bounded south 
 by the line between Townships thirty and thirty-one, on the third principal meri- 
 dian, east by lake Michigan, and north by the boundary of the state. Land-office 
 at Chicago. 
 
 The land, by proclamation of the President, is first offered for sale at auction, by 
 half-quarter-sections. If no one bids for it at $1.25 per acre or upwards, it is sub- 
 ject to private entry at any time after, upon payment at time of entry. No credit 
 is allowed. In special cases Congress has granted pre-emption rigiits, where set- 
 tlements and improvements have been made on public lands previous to the public 
 sale. 
 
 Pre-emption rights confer the privilege only of purchasing the tract containing 
 improvements at $1.25 per acre, by the possessor, without the risk of a public 
 sale. 
 
 All lands in this state, purchased of the general government, are exempted 
 from taxation for five years after purchase. All lands owned by private citizens or 
 corporate bodies, and not exempted as above, are divided by law into two classes 
 for taxation, called '■^ first and second rates." First-rate lands are taxed $3.20 per 
 quarter-section of 160 acres per annum. Second-rate lands are taxed §2.40 per 
 quarter-section, besides a county tax for roads. Resident and non-resident land- 
 holders are taxed equally. 
 
 Residents owning lands in the different counties may list the same and pay 
 taxes in the counties where they reside, or in the auditor's office, at their option. 
 Non-residents must list their lands in the auditor's office. Taxes of non-residents 
 are required to be paid into the state treasury, annually, on or before the first of 
 August. If not paid at that time, a delinquent list of all lands, owned by non-resi- 
 dents, on which taxes have not been paid, is sent to the clerk of the county com- 
 missioners' court of the county where the land lies, and a transcript of this list is 
 to be published in some newspaper, printed within the state, at least sixty days pre- 
 vious to sale. If the taxes are not paid to the clerk of the county by the first 
 Monday in March, so much of the land, as is necessary to pay taxes and costs, is 
 sold at the seat of justice of the county. 
 
 Lands sold for taxes may be redeemed within two years from the time of sale, 
 by paying to the clerk of the county, for the use of the purchaser, double the 
 amount of taxes, interest, and costs for which the same may have been sold. 
 Lands belonging to minor heirs may be redeemed at any time before the expira- 
 tion of one year from the time the youngest of said heirs shall become of lawful 
 age. 
 
 If persons have held lands in the Military Tract, or in the state, and have not 
 attended to paying taxes for more than two years, the land is sold and past re- 
 demption, unless there are minor heirs. Every non-resident landholder should 
 employ an agent within the state to pay his taxes, and take the oversight of his 
 property. AH deeds, conveyances, mortgages, or title-papers whatsoever, must be 
 recorded in the " recorder's office" in the county where the land is situated. Deeds 
 and title-papers are not in force until filed in the recorder's office. The words 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 55 
 
 " grant, bargain and sell," whatever may be the specific form of the instrument 
 in other respects, convey a full and bona fide title, to warrant and defend, unless 
 express orovision is made to the contrary in the instrument. 
 
 PLANS OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENT. 
 
 Those undertaken by the state are embraced in two divisions: the Illinois and 
 Michigan canal, and the internal improvement system adopted by the legislature 
 last winter. 
 
 The project of uniting the waters of Lake Michigan and the Illinois, by a canal, 
 was conceived soon after the commencement of the Erie canal of New-York; and 
 a board of commissioners, with engineers, explored the route and estimated the 
 cost, in 1823. Provision, by a grant of each alternate section of land within five 
 miles of the route, having been granted by Congress, anotlier board of commis- 
 sioners was appointed in 1829, a new survey was made, and the towns of Chicago 
 and Ottawa laid off, and some lots sold in 1830. Various movements have since 
 been made, but nothing effectually done. 
 
 At a special session of the legislature held in the winter of 1835-6, an act was 
 passed for the construction of the Illinois and Michigan canal; the Governor was 
 authorized to negotiate, a loan on the faith and credit of the state, not exceeding 
 !^.500,000, a board of three commissioners was organized, with full power to employ 
 engineers, let contracts, dispose of property, and carry on the wliole business, on 
 behalf of tlie state. The dimensions of the canal were fixed as follow: Sixty feet 
 wide at the top water-line, thirty-six feet wide at the bottom, and six feet deep. 
 The irregular fluctuations or tides in the lakes, occasioned by the action of high 
 winds, rendered the depth agreed upon indispensably necessary to insure a naviga- 
 tion of at least four feet. 
 
 This great work commences on the north fork of the south brancli of Chicago 
 river, four miles to tire south-west of the city of Chicago (the river itself forming a 
 deep and natural canal from this point to the harbour), and from thence extends to 
 the Des Plaines river seven and a half miles, at a place called ''the Point of Oaks." 
 From thence down the valley of tiie Des Plaines to the running out of the lake 
 level, 2-5 miles. On section 23, T. 36 N. R. 70, E. of the third principal division, 
 the commissioners have laid out a town on state property, one mile square, called 
 Lockport. Here are to be two locks, ten feet lift each, placed in conjunction, so 
 as to create twenty feet fall, and an immense water-power from the surplus water 
 drawn from Lake Michigan. Here, also, will be constructed a basin tor three- 
 fourths of a mile, and 120 feet wide. From Lockport the canal proceeds down the 
 valley of the Des Plaines to Juliet, where it crosses by a dam ; its line runs past 
 Marseilles, and crosses Fox river by an aqueduct betwixt the main bluff and 
 Ottawa. A navigable feeder will connect it with the rapids of Fox river, four 
 miles above Ottawa, and extend through the town to the Illinois river, where a 
 natural basin, of deep water, is at the mouth of Fox river. Below Ottawa, the 
 canal passes down the right bank of the Illinois, near the bluffs of the Little Ver- 
 million, and enters the Illinois river, in the corner of fractional section 21, in town- 
 ship 33, north Range one, east of the third principal meridian. To this point the 
 Illinois is navigable for steamboats at all stages of water. A steamboat basin, or 
 harbour, is to be constructed, and a large town laid off on section 1.5, near the ter- 
 mination of the canal. The whole length of the canal, including Fox river feeder, 
 will be 100 miles and 28 chains, to which add Chicago river, of 5 miles and 44 
 chains, and it gives 105 miles and 72 chains for the entire length of the navigable 
 line. The canal is estimated to cost 8,654,337 dollars. 
 
 The legislature, at its last session, authorized a survey of the Calumet, and the 
 Sauga nas-ke valley, with the view of constructing a lateral canal, to open a navi- 
 gable communication from the main canal to the Calumet, from which it is ex- 
 pected a water communication will be made in the state of Indiana to the Wabash 
 and Erie canal. 
 
 The resources of the state to meet the cost of this stupendous work arise from 
 the sale of town lots and lands along the line of this work. Each alternate section, 
 
56 GENERAL VIEW OB^ 
 
 along the line of tlie canal, and ten miles in width, has been granted by Congress 
 for the purpose. During last year, 375 lots were sold in Chicago for 1,355,755 
 dollars. In Ottawa, 78 lots sold for 21,358 dollars. The unsold lands tor canal 
 purposes, belonging to the state, amount to 270,182 acres, which, including the 
 town lots laid oA] are estimated equal to the expense of the canal. Amount of sales 
 for lands and town lots previous to 1833, $18,798 08^. The estimated value of 
 the lots in the town of Lockport, and the town laid otf at the termination of the 
 canal, is one million and a half dollars. The remainder of the canal lands may be 
 estimated at twenty dollars per acre. 
 
 The project of this canal is a vast enterprize for so young a state, but truly na- 
 tional in its character, and will constitute one of the main arteries in eastern and 
 western communication. The work is going forward, and from live to eight years 
 is the period estimated for its completion. Already commerce, in no small extent, 
 is passing along that line. Merchants from St. Louis, from along the Illinois river, 
 from Galena and the Wisconsin Territory, and especially from the Wabash river as 
 far south as Terre Haute, bring their goods that way. Were a communication 
 opened between the navigable waters, the distance from New-York to St. Louis, 
 would be passed in from sixteen to twenty days. 
 
 The following result is founded upon information gathered by the commission- 
 ers: — From New- York to Buffalo, 5 days. — From Butialo to Chicago, by steamboats 
 fitted for lake navigation, 8 days. — From Chicago to the toot of the rapids on the 
 canal, estimating the speed at three miles an hour, 33 iiours. — From the foot of the 
 rapids to St. Louis, by steamboats, 48 hours. The wliole distance can be passed 
 over in sixteen days; but giving four days additional time, and the transportation 
 on this route can be made in twenty days. 
 
 The commercial, and consequently the agricultural interests of the whole valley 
 of the Mississippi, are concerned in the result of this undertaking. For whatever 
 amount of produce is thrown otf through this channel to the Canadas and New- 
 York, it increases the advantages of a market tor the commerce that floats down 
 the Mississippi. The Missouri and the Wisconsin Territory are no less interested 
 in opening this communication. In accepting the donation of land made by the 
 general government, the honour and credit of Illinois are pledged lor the success 
 of this enterprize. 
 
 At the late session of the legislature (1836-7), an act was passed to establish 
 and maintain a general system of internal improvement. It provides for a "Board 
 of Fund Commissioners," of three persons, and a "Board of Commissioners of Pub- 
 lic Works," of seven persons — one in each judicial circuit. The Board of Fund 
 Commissioners are authorized to negotiate all loans authorized by the legislature 
 on the faith and credit of the state tor objects of internal improvement; to receive, 
 manage, deposit, and apply all sums of money, and to manage the whole fiscal 
 concerns of the improvement system. The Board of Public Works are authorized 
 and required to locate, superintend, direct, and construct, on behalf of the state, all 
 works of internal improvement which are or sliall be authorized to be undertaken 
 by the state (except the Illinois and Michigan canal, which is managed by a dis- 
 tinct board). Each member has specific ciiarge of that portion of the works that 
 falls witiiin his own district. They are required to execute the works by letting 
 out contracts, except in special cases. The Fund Commissioners are authorized 
 to contract loans by issuing state stock at a rate not exceeding six per centum per 
 annum, and to an amount not exceeding eight millions of dollars, redeemable alter 
 1870. 
 
 The following are the works of improvement provided for : 1. The Great Wa- 
 bash river in co-operation with the state of Indiana, in that part over which both 
 states have concurrent jurisdiction; appropriated $100,000. 2. Illinois river, 
 $100,000. 3. Rock river, $100,000. 4. Kaskaskia river, $50,000. 5. Little 
 Wabash river, $50,000. 6. On the great western mail route leading from Vin- 
 cennes to St. I.ouis, $250,000. 7. A rail -road from a point at or near the junction 
 of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, via Vandalia, Shelby ville, Decatur, and Bloom- 
 ington; — to cross the Illinois river, at the termination of the Illinois and Michigan 
 canal, and from thence to Galena — appropriated $3,500,000. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 57 
 
 8. A southern cross rail-road from Alton, via Edwardsville, Carlyle, Salem, Fair- 
 field, and Albion, to Mount Carniel ; whence it is expected a line will be extended 
 through Indiana to New Albany, and become connected with the great rail-road 
 chartered and surveyed from the Oliio river to Charleston, South Carolina. Also a 
 rail-roal from Alton to Shawneetown, to diverge from the aforesaid southern cross 
 rail-road at Edwardsville, and pass through Lebanon, Nashville, Pinckneyville, 
 Franktbrt, and Equality. And further, a rail-road from Belleville, via Lebanon, 
 and to intersect the road from Alton to Mount Carmel. This last will pass near 
 Rock Spring, — appropriated, $1,750,000. 
 
 9. A northern cross rail-road from Quincy on the Mississippi river, to cross the 
 Illinois river at Meredosia, and to Jacksonville, Springtield, Decatur, Sydney, Dan- 
 ville, and tlience to the state line in the direction of Lafayette, Indiana, and thus 
 tbrm a line of communication with the great works in Indiana, and to the eastern 
 states — appropriated, $1,8.50,000. 
 
 10. A rail-road from Alton, via Upper Alton, Hillsboro, Shelbyville, Charleston, 
 Paris, and thence to the state line in the direction of Terre Haute, Indiana, where 
 it will be connected with rail-road and canal communications tlirough that state, 
 both in an eastern and southern direction — appropriated, .SI,"250,000. 
 
 11. A rail-road from Peoria, via Canton, Macomb, &.c., to Warsaw, on the Mis- 
 sissippi, at the foot of the Des Moines rapids — appropriated, S~00,000. 
 
 12. A rail-road from Bloomington to Mackinaw, and thence two branches to the 
 Illinois river; — one through Tremont to Pekin, the other to Peoria — appropriated, 
 s350,000. An appropriation of !5;"2(.K),000 was made to those counties through 
 which no rail-road or canal is made at the cost of the state, to be in a rateable pro- 
 portion to the census of 1835, and to be applied in the improvement of roads, 
 bridges, and other public works, by the counties. 
 
 The funds to meet the expenses of tliese plans are as follow : — The special fund 
 for the purpose shall consist of all moneys raised from state bonds, or stock, or other 
 loans, authorized by law ; — all appropriations made from time to timeout of the 
 revenue of the state arising from land taxes; — all tolls and rents of water privi- 
 leges and other tolls from the works when constructed ; — all rents, profits, and issues, 
 from lands to be purchased on the routes ; — the proceeds of all donations of lands 
 trom the general government, or from individuals, companies, or corporations ; — a 
 portion of the proceeds of the surplus fund distributed by Congress; together with 
 the net proceeds of all bank and other stocks subscribed and owned by the state, 
 after liquidating the interest on loans contracted for the purchase of such bank or 
 other stocks. A subsequent enactment authorized the fund commissioners to sub- 
 scribe 2,000,000 dollars stock to tiie State Bank of Illinois, and 1,400,000 dollars to 
 the Illinois bank at Shawneetown, by the creation of six per cent, stock. The net 
 proceeds of this stock, after paying interest on the loans, will equal six per centum 
 per annum, or produce an annual revenue to the Internal Improvement Fund of 
 !SI^O,U()0. 
 
 The interest of the state in all these works, all their proceeds, with the faith of 
 the state, are irrevocably pledged for the payment of the interest and the redemp- 
 tion of the principal of all stock and loans for Internal Improvement. The improve- 
 ment of the great western mail route from Vincennes to St. Ix)uis, and the special 
 appropriation to the counties, are to be provided for from the first loans made. The 
 improvement of the rivers is to be for steam, keel, and flat boats; to be commenced 
 at their mouths, and continued up as far as the appropriations admit. The rail-roads 
 are to be commenced at their intersection with navigable rivers and commercial 
 towns, and as soon as five miles of any one line is completed, the commissioners 
 are required to place thereon locomotives and facilities of transportation, to estab- 
 lish tolls, etc. 
 
 Congress has made an appropriation to improve the navigation of the Mississippi 
 at the rapids — a work of immense importance to the northern part of this state, and 
 the Wisconsin Territory. The improvement of the navigation of the Mississippi 
 should be regarded and urged as strictly a national work. There are two rapids 
 in the Mississippi river, which, in times of low water, impede the progress of 
 steamboats. One is near the mouth of the Des Moines, and adjoining Hancock 
 
 IT 
 
58 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 county, where the water descends over sand-rocks twenty-five feet five inches in 
 11 miles. The other commences at Rock Island, and extends about 15 miles. The 
 descent of the water in that distance is 21 feet 10 inches. In both of these rapids 
 there are ledges of rocks, witii intervals of deep water, extending across the river. 
 
 The harbour at Chicago, nearly completed by the general government, will be of 
 immense benefit to that place, and all the northern portion of the state. It will 
 form one of the finest harbours in all tlie northern lake country. The National 
 Road is in progress through this state, and considerable improvement has been 
 made on that portion which lies between Vandalia and the boundary of Indiana. 
 It runs from Vincennes in a south-westerly course to Vandalia, a distance of 90 
 miles. The road is established 80 feet wide. But little has been done on this 
 road during the last two years. About $220,000 of appropriated funds now remain 
 on hand, and arrangements are in progress to work out this fund during the present 
 season. From Vandalia westward the road is not yet located, but the legislature 
 of Illinois, with great unanimity, have consented to its passage through the state, 
 only on the contingency that it shall pass Alton and cross the Mississippi, above 
 tlie mouth of the Missouri. 
 
 Many companies have been incorporated for the construction of short canals, 
 rail-roads, and turnpike roads. A rail-road from Naples to Jacksonville, now under- 
 going construction; — another rail-road from Jacksonville, via Lynnville and Win- 
 chester, to the Illinois river opposite Augusta. A third railway has been com- 
 menced from Chicago to the Des Plaines, 12 miles over level prairies, and design- 
 ed to extend across the state to Galena. Another rail-road is now under contract 
 and working from the Mississippi, opposite to St. Louis, across the American Bot- 
 tom to the coal-mines in the bluffs of St. Clair county. 
 
 No state in the Union possesses such facilities for intercommunication by canals 
 and railways, at so cheap a rate, and which can be so equally distributed to its 
 population, as Illinois. 
 
 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 In the infancy of a state, little can be expected in machinery and manufactures; 
 and in a region so much deficient in water-power as some parts of Illinois are, still 
 less may be looked for. Yet Illinois is not entirely deficient in manufacturing en- 
 terprize. The principal salines of this state have been mentioned under the head 
 of minerals. 
 
 Steam Mills for flouring and sawing are becoming very common, and in general 
 are profitable. Some are now in operation, with tour runs of stones, and which 
 manufacture one hundred barrels of flour in a day. Mills propelled by steam, 
 water, and aflimal power, are constantly increasing. Steam-miUs will become nu- 
 merous, particularly in the southern and middle portions of the state; and it is de- 
 serving remark, that while these portions are not well supplied with durable water- 
 power, they contain, in the tmiber of the forest, and the inexhaustible bodies of 
 bituminous coal, abundant supplies of fuel ; — while the northern portion, though 
 deficient in fiiel, has abundant water-power. A good steam saw-mill, with two 
 saws, can be built for 2000 dollars; and a steam flouring mill, with two runs of 
 stones, elevators, and other apparatus complete, and of sufficient force to turn out 
 forty barrels of flour per day, may be built for 6000 dollars. 
 
 The northern half of tlie state will be most abundantly supplied with water- 
 power, and ordinary mills for sawing lumber and grinding grain are now in opera- 
 tion on the various streams. Probably in no part of the great West does there 
 exist such an immense water-power, as is to be found naturally, and which will be 
 created artificially along the rapids of the Illinois and Fox rivers, and the Illinois 
 and Michigan canal. Incorporated companies with ample means are now construct- 
 ing hydraulic works at Ottawa, Marseilles, and other pomts along the rapids of the 
 Illinois. Fox river rapids have a descent of sixteen feet at Green's mills, four 
 miles above Ottawa, with abundant supplies of water at its lowest stage; and the 
 river itself, from thence to M'Henry county, is a rapid stream, with rocky banks, 
 admirably suited for hydraulic purposes. On the Kankakee are some fine sites for 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 59 
 
 water privileges. Rock river furnishes abundant facilities, especially at Grand 
 Detour and Rockford. A company engaged in the establishment of a large town 
 at the mouth of Rock river, has been recently chartered by the legislature, for the 
 purpose of cutting a canal from a point on the Mississippi at the upper rapids, to 
 Rock river, by which they expect to gain eighteen feet fall and immense hydraulic 
 power. 
 
 It is expected that the improvement of the Kaskaskia and Little Wabash rivers, 
 as provided for by the recent law of the state, will create valuable water privileires 
 along these streams. Certainly, in connexion with the improvement of the Great 
 Wabash river by the joint operation of Indiana and Illinois, hydraulic power to any 
 desirable extent will be created. Such will be the effect, too, upon Sangamon and 
 other rivers within the state. Des Plaines river, and also the Calumet, furnish 
 extensive hydraulic privileges; and the surplus water provided by the construction 
 of the Illinois and Michigan canal, and which may be conveniently applied to 
 manufacturing purposes, is estimated to be equal to that required for running 700 
 ' pairs of miU-stones four and a half feet in diameter. 
 
 Incorporations for companies for various manufacturing purposes have been 
 granted by the legislature within the last four or five years, some of which have 
 been organized and commenced operations. The conclusion is, that Illinois will 
 furnish as great facilities for manufacturing purposes, as soon as the circumstances 
 and wants of the community shall call for their operation, as can be found in any 
 western state. 
 
 Large quantities of castor oil are annually manufactured in Illinois from the 
 palma christi, or castor bean. -A number of presses for expressing the oil are in 
 operation in Madison, Greene, Macoupin, St. Clair, Randolph, Edwards, and per- 
 haps other counties. The most extensive establishment is at Edwardsville, where 
 from thirty to tbrty thousand gallons are made annually. 
 
 A few tiictories for spinning cotton yarn have been put into operation in several 
 counties on a small scale of from one hundred to two hundred spindles each. They 
 are carried on by animal power on the inclined plane. 
 
 Coarse clothing from cotton is manufactured in the southern portion of the 
 state, where the article is raised in small quantities. Woollen cloth, and jeans, a 
 mixture of wool and cotton, is made for ordinary wear, as is cloth from flax. 
 
 Boat building will soon become a branch of business in this state. Some steam- 
 boats have already been constructed within its limits, along the Mississippi. It is 
 thought that Alton and Chicago are convenient sites for this business. 
 
 There is in this state, as in all the western states, a large amount of domestic 
 manufactures made by tamilies. All the trades, needful to a new country, are in 
 existence. Carpenters, wagon-makers, cabinet-makers, blacksmiths, tanneries, 
 &c., may be found in every county and town. At Mount Carmel and Springfield, 
 there are iron foundries for castings. 
 
 There has been a considerable falling off" in the manufacture of whiskey with- 
 in a few years, and it is sincerely hoped by thousands of citizens that this branch 
 of business, so decidedly injurious to the morals and happiness of the community 
 and of individuals, will entirely decline. 
 
 Ox-mills on the inclined plane, and horse-mills by draught, are common through- 
 out the middle and southern parts of the state. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 The Congress of the United States, in the act for admitting the state of Illinois 
 into the Union, granted to it the section numbered sixteen in every Township, or 
 one thirty-sixth part of all the public lands within the state, for the use of schools. 
 The avails of this section are understood to constitute a fund for the benefit of the 
 families living within the surveyed township, and not the portion of a common fund 
 to be applied by the state for the general purposes of education. Three per cent, 
 of the net proceeds of all the public lands, lying within this state, which shall be 
 sold after the 1st of January, 1819, is to be paid over by the general government, 
 and constitute a common fund for education, under the direction of the state au- 
 
60 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 thority. One sixth of this three per cent, fund is to be exclusively bestowed upon 
 a college or university. Two entire townships, or 40,060 acres, selected from 
 choice portions of the public lands, have likewise been given to education. Part 
 of this land has been sold by state autliority, and the avails funded at six per cent, 
 interest. 
 
 The amount of funds realized from these sources, and under charge of the state, 
 (independent of the sixteenth sections,) is about $384,183, the interest of which 
 is now distributed annually to such schools as make due returns to the proper au- 
 thority. By a recent act of the legislature, a moiety of the "surplus fund," re- 
 ceived from the national treasury, is to be converted into bank stock, and the in- 
 come to be distributed to common schools. The income of the three per centum 
 from the sales of public lands, will continue as long as there are public lands to 
 be sold. 
 
 The unsold lands in this state belonging to the general government, may be 
 estimated at 18,000,000 of acres. Were tiiis sold at the present minimum price, 
 it would produce >S22,500,000, of which three per cent, would be 675,000 dollars. 
 But it is highly probable that this immense domain will not all be sold at its pre- 
 sent price ; averaging it, therefore, at 75 cents per acre, it would amount to 
 $13,500,000, of which three per cent, belonging to this state, would give $405,000 
 tor education purposes. 
 
 The amount of the sections numbered sixteen, and reserved for schools in the 
 respective townships, was estimated by the commissioner of public lands, and re- 
 ported to Congress in April, 1832, at 977,457 acres in Illinois. Tliis tract is not 
 usually sold until the township in whicli it lies is somewhat populated, and hence 
 commands a higher price than other lands. The section in the vicinity of Chicago 
 was sold in November, 1833, (atler reserving twelve acres,) for !|i38,705. Other 
 tracts in settled portions of the state have been sold for from five to ten dollars 
 per acre. Estimating the whole at two dollars per acre, the value is $1,954,914. 
 
 Present fund at interest, $384,183 
 
 Value of Seminary lands unsold, ------- 20,000 
 
 Value of sections numbered sixteen, 1,954,914 
 
 Estimate of tiie three per cent, fund on all public land 
 
 now unsold in the state, at 75 cents per acre, - - - 405,000 
 
 $2,764,097 
 
 To this add the moiety of the surplus fund to be invested in bank stock and the 
 income to be distributed with the interest on the scliool fund, equal to 318,500 dol- 
 lars; but as it is liable to be demanded by the general government, it has not been 
 considered as any portion of the permanent school fund. The funds and claims 
 of Illinois for education purposes may be estimated at $3,000,000. 
 
 Provision now exists by law for the people to organize themselves into school 
 districts, and to conduct the affairs of the school in a corporate capacity by trus- 
 tees, and they can derive aid from public funds under control of the stale. Upon 
 petition from the inhabitants of a township, tlie section numbered sixteen can be 
 sold, and the proceeds funded, the interest of which maybe applied annually to the 
 teachers of such sciiools within the township as conform to the requisites of tlie 
 law. To some extent the people have availed themselves of these provisions, and 
 receive the interest of the finid. 
 
 A material defect in all the laws that have been framed in this state, on this 
 subject, has been in not requiring the necessary qualifications on the part of teach- 
 ers, and a previous examination before a competent board or committee. Without 
 such a provision, no school law will be of much real service. The people have 
 suflTered much already, and common school education has been greatly retarded by 
 the imposition of unqualified and worthless persons under the name of school 
 teachers ; and were funds ever so liberally bestowed, they would prove of little real 
 service, without the requisites of sobriety, morality, and sufficient ability to teach 
 well on the part of those who get the pay. 
 
 A complete common school system must be organized, sooner or later, and will 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 61 
 
 be sustained by the people. The lands, education funds, and wants of the country, 
 call for it. Many good primary schools now exist, and where three or four of the 
 leadino- families unite and exert their influence in favour of the measure, it is not 
 ditlicnit to have a good scliool. In each county a school commissioner is appointed, 
 to superintend the sales of the sixteenth sections, loan the money, receive and ap- 
 portion tlie interest received from this fund and from the state funds, receive sciie- 
 dule returns of the number of scholars that attend each school, and make report 
 annually to the secretary of state. 
 
 The people in any settlement can organize themselves into a school district, em- 
 ploy a teacher, and obtain their proportion of tlie income from the school funds, 
 provided the teacher keeps a schedule of the number of scholars who attend, the 
 number of days each one is present, and the number of days each scholar is ab- 
 sent, a copy of which must be certified by the trustees of the district, and returned 
 to the scliool commissioners of the county semi-annually. If the school is made 
 up from parts of two or more townships, a separate schedule of the scholars from 
 each township must be made out. The term "township" in the school laws 
 merely expresses the surveys of 1^6 sections, and not a civil organization. 
 
 Several seminaries, and institutions for colleges, have been established, and pro- 
 mise success. 
 
 Illinois College is located in the vicinity of Jacksonville, and one mile west of 
 the town. Its situation is on a delightful eminence, fronting the east, and over- 
 looking the town, and a vast extent of beautiful prairie country, now covered with 
 well-cultivated farms. The buildings are as follows : a brick edifice, 104 feet in 
 length, 40 feet in width, five stories high, including the basement; containing 22 
 apartments for the accommodation of officers and students. To this main building 
 are attached two wings, each 38 feet long and 28 feet wide, three stories high, in- 
 cluding the basement; for the accommodation of the families of the Faculty. The 
 chapel is a separate building, 65 feet long and 30 feet wide, two stories high, in- 
 cluding rooms for public worship, lectures, recitations, library, etc. and eight rooms 
 for students. There are also upon the premises a farm-house, barn, workshops for 
 students who wish to perform manual labour, and other out-buildings. The farm 
 consists of 300 acres of land, all under fence. The improvements and stock on 
 the farm are valued at several thousand dollars. 
 
 Students who choose are allowed to employ a portion of each day in manual 
 labour, either upon the farm or in the workshop. Some individuals earn !rl>150 
 each, during the year. The library consists of about 1500 volumes. There is 
 also a valuable chemical and philosophical apparatus. The year is divided into 
 two terms, of twenty weeks each. The first term commences eight weeks atler 
 the third Wednesday in September. The second term commences on the Wednes- 
 day previous to the 5th of Alay ; leaving eight weeks vacation in the fall, and four 
 in the spring. 
 
 There are 42 students connected with the college classes, and 22 students in 
 the preparatory department. Of this number, several are beneficiaries, who are 
 aided by education societies, with a view to the gospel ministry. The Faculty of 
 Illinois College consists of a Professor of Moral and Intellectual Philosophy and 
 Political Economy, who is also President of the Institution ; a Professor of Mathe- 
 matics and Natural Philosophy, and lecturer on chemistry; a Professor of the 
 Greek and Latin languages, a Professor of Rhetoric and Belles Lettres,' and an 
 Instructor in the preparatory department. The pupils in the different classes are 
 as follows: Senior, "3; — Junior, 11; — Sophomore, 12; — Freshman, 16; — Total 
 Collegiate department, 42. In the Preparatory department, 22: Total, 64. The 
 course of instruction is intended to be equal to the first-rate colleges in the eastern 
 states. 
 
 Shurtleff College of Alton, Illinois, is pleasantly situated at Upper Alton. It 
 originated in the establishment of a seminary at Rock Spring, in 1827, and which 
 was subsequently removed. At a meeting held June 4th, 1832, seven gentlemen 
 formed a written compact, and agreed to advance funds for the purchase of about 
 360 acres of land, and put up an academical building of brick, two stories high 
 with a stone basement, 40 feet long, and 32 feet wide. A large stone building for 
 
 ~ ~ 6 
 
62 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 a Refectory, and for Professors' and Students' rooms, has since been erected. A 
 Preparatory scliool was commenced in 1833. In 1835, building-Iots were laid off 
 within the corporate bounds of the town, a part of wiiich was sold, and a valuable 
 property still remains for future sale. The same year, funds to some e.xtent were 
 obtained in the eastern states, of which the liberal donation of ten thousand dol- 
 lars was received from Benjamin Shurtleff, M. D., of Boston, which gives name to 
 the institution. Of this fund 5000 dollars is to be appropriated towards a College 
 building, and 5(X)0 dollars towards the endowment of a Professorship of Oratory, 
 Rhetoric, and Belles-Lettres. Regular college classes are not yet organized. The 
 Preparatory department is in regular progress and contains about 60 students. 
 Measures are in progress to put up a large college building, and to complete the 
 organization of the College Faculty. 
 
 Alton Theological Seminary is an organization distinct from Shurtleff College, 
 and is under tiie charge of a Theological Professor, with seven or eight students, 
 licentiates of Baptist churches. 
 
 M'Kendreean College, under the supervision of the Methodist Episcopal Church, 
 is located at Lebanon, St. Clair county. It has a commodious framed building, and 
 about 50 students in tiie Preparatory department, under the charge of two compe- 
 tent instructors. 
 
 M'Donough College, at Macomb, has just commenced operations. It is identi- 
 fied with the interests of the "old school" Presbyterians, as the Illinois college at 
 Jacksonville is with the "new school" Presbyterians. 
 
 Canton College in Fulton county has recently been chartered as a college by 
 the legislature, and is a respectable academical institution, and has 70 or 60 
 students. A literary Institution, modelled somewhat after the plan of the Oneida 
 Institute in the state of New-York, is in progress at Galesboro', Knox county. 
 
 Belvidere college, in Winnebago county, has been recently chartered, and an 
 effort is about being made to establish a respectable literary institution in this new 
 and interesting portion of the state. Several respectable academies and semina- 
 ries are also in operation, established chiefly by individual efibrt, where good 
 schools are taught. Amongst these we notice the following, though some of equal 
 importance may be overl(X)ked. 
 
 The Jacksonville Academy is established for the convenience of those whose 
 studies are not sufficiently advanced to enter the Preparatory department of Illinois 
 College. The Jacksonville Female Academy is a flourisiiing institution. A re- 
 spectable academy is in operation at Springfield ; another at Princeton, Putnam 
 county; a third at Griggsville ; and a fourth at Quincy. 
 
 The Alton Female Seminary is an institution projected for a full and useful 
 course of inf^truction, on a large scale, and is designed wholly as a boarding-school. 
 The business of instruction will be in the hands of competent ladies. The system 
 of instruction will be extensive. 
 
 The project of establishing a seminary for the education of teachers, at Waverley 
 in the south-eastern part of Morgan county, is entertained by several gentlemen. 
 A seminary is about being established in a settlement of Reformed Presbyterians 
 in the eastern part of Randolph county. The "Reformers," or Campbellitos, as 
 some term them, have a charter, and contemplate establisliing a college at Hano- 
 ver, in Tazevv'oll county. Thus, a broad and deep foundation is about being laid 
 in Illinois for the promotion of education. Several lyceums and literary associa- 
 tions exist in this state, and there is in almost every county a decided expression 
 of popular opinion in favour of education. 
 
 RELIGION. 
 
 The Methodist Episcopal Church is the most numerous. The Illinois Confer- 
 ence, which embraces this state and a portion of Wisconsin Territory, in 1835 had 
 61 circuit preachers, 308 local preachers, and 15,097 members of society. They 
 sustain preaching in every county, and in a large number of the settlements. 
 
 The Baptist denomination includes 22 associations, 260 churches, 160 preach- 
 ers, and 7,350 communicants. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 63 
 
 The Presbyterians have one Synod, eight Presbyteries, and about 80 churches, 
 60 ministers, and 2,500 members. 
 
 There are 12 or 15 Congregationalist churches, united in an association, and 
 several ministers. 
 
 The Methodist Protestant denomination has one conference, 23 ministers, and 
 344 members. 
 
 Tiie Reformers, as they term themselves, or " Campbellites," as otiiers call them, 
 iiave several large, and a number of small societies, a number of preachers, and 
 several hundred members, including the Christian body, with which they are in 
 union. Thoy immerse all who protess to believe in Christ for the remission of 
 sins, but differ widely from orthodo.x Baptists on some points of doctrine. 
 
 The Cumberland Presbyterians have two or three Presbyteries, twelve or fifteen 
 preachers, and several hundred communicants. 
 
 There are two churclies of Reformed Presbyterians, or Covenanters, one minis- 
 ter, and about 280 communicants, with a few lamilies scattered in other parts of 
 the state. There are also two or three societies of Associate Reformed Presbyte- 
 rians, or Seceders. 
 
 In M'Lean county is a society of United Brethren, or, as some call them, Dutch 
 Metliodists. 
 
 Tiie Dunkards have five or six societies and some preachers in this state. 
 
 There are several Lutheran congregations with preachers. 
 
 Tlie Protestant Episcopal Church has an organized diocese, eight or ten congre- 
 gations, and seven or eiglit ministers. 
 
 There are small societies of Friends or Quakers in Tazewell and Crawford 
 counties ; and a few Mormons, scattered through the state. 
 
 The Roman Catholics are not numerous. They have a dozen congregations, 
 eight or ten priests, and a population between five and six thousand including old 
 and young. A convent and boarding-school for young ladies is in operation at Kas- 
 kaskia. The Roman Catholics are mostly about the old French villages, and the 
 labourers along the line of canal. 
 
 There is considerable expression of good feeling amongst the different religious 
 denominations, and the members frequently hear the preachers of each other, as 
 there are but k\v congregations that are supplied every Sabbath. The qualifica- 
 tions of the clergymen are various. A number of them are men of talents, learn- 
 ing, mfluence, and unblemished piety. Others have had but few advantages in 
 acquiring either literary or theological information, and yet are good speakers and 
 useful men. 
 
 In general there are as many professors of religion, of some description, in 
 proportion to the population, as in most of the states. The number will not vary 
 far from 40,000, or one to ten. 
 
 SUGGESTIONS TO EMIGRANTS. 
 
 Extracted from Mr. Peck's " Emigrant's Guide." 
 
 Canal, Steam-Boat and Stage Rotites. — Other Modes of Travel — Expenses 
 — Roads, Distances, <^c. cj-c. 
 
 Persons in moderate circumstances, or who would save time and expense, need 
 not make a visit to the West, to ascertain particulars previous to removal. A few 
 general facts, easily collected from a hundred sources, will enable persons to de- 
 cide the great question, whether they will emigrate to the Valley. By the same 
 means, emigrants may determine to what state, and to what part of that state, 
 their course shall be directed. There are many things that a person of plain com- 
 mon sense will take for granted without inquiry, — such as facilities for obtainino- 
 all the necessaries of life, the readiness with which property of any description 
 may be obtained for a fair value, and especially farms and wild land, that they can 
 live where hundreds of thousands of others of similar habits and feelings live; and 
 above all, they should take it for granted, that there are difficulties to be encoun- 
 
64 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 tered in every country, and in all business ; — that these difficulties can be sur- 
 mounted with reasonable effort, patience, and perseverance ; and that, in every 
 country, people sicken and die. 
 
 Having decided to what state, and part of the state, an emigrant will temove, 
 let him then conclude to take as little furniture and other luggage as he can do 
 with, especially if he comes by public conveyances. Those who reside within 
 convenient distance of a sea-port, would find it both safe and economical to ship 
 by New-Orleans, in boxes, such articles as are not wanted on the road, especially 
 if they steer for the navigable waters of the Mississippi. Bed and other clothing, 
 books, (See. packed in boxes, like merchants' goods, will go much safer and cheaper 
 by New-Orleans, than by any of the inland routes. I have received more than 100 
 packages and boxes from eastern ports, by that route, within 20 years, and never 
 lost one. Boxes should be marked to the owner or his agent at the river port 
 where destined, and to the charge of some forwarding house in New-Orleans. The 
 freight and charges may be paid when the boxes are received. 
 
 If a person designs to remove to the north part of Ohio and Indiana, to Chicago 
 and vicinity, or to Michigan or Green Bay, his course should be by the New- York 
 canal, and the lakes. The fillowing table, showing the time of the opening of 
 the canal at Albany and Buffalo, and the opening of the lake, from 1827 to 1835, 
 is from a report of a committee at Buffalo to the common council of that city. It 
 will be of use to those who wish to take the northern route in the spring. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Canal opened 
 
 Canal opened 
 
 Lake Erie opened 
 
 at Uuflalo. 
 
 at Albany. 
 
 at Buffalo. 
 
 1827 
 
 April 21 
 
 April 21 
 
 April 21 
 
 1828 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1829 
 
 " 25 
 
 " 29 
 
 May 10 
 
 1830 
 
 " 15 
 
 " 20 
 
 April 6 
 
 1831 
 
 « 16 
 
 16 
 
 May 8 
 
 1832 
 
 « 18 
 
 " 25 
 
 April 27 
 
 1833 
 
 " 22 
 
 " 22 
 
 » 23 
 
 1834 
 
 " 16 
 
 .. 17 
 
 6 
 
 1835 
 
 » 15 
 
 " 15 
 
 May 8 
 
 The same route will carry emigrants to Cleaveland, and by the Ohio canal, to 
 Columbus, or to the Ohio river, at Portsmouth ; whence, by steamboat, direct com- 
 munications will otTer to any river port in the Western States. From But!alo, 
 steamboats run constantly (when the lake is open) to Detroit, stopping at Erie, 
 Ashtabula, Cleaveland, Sandusky, and many other ports, whence stages run to 
 every prominent town. Transportation wagons are employed in forwarding goods. 
 
 Route from Buffalo to Detroit, by water. 
 
 Dunkirk, N. Y. - 
 Portland, " 
 Erie, Pa. - - - 
 Ashtabula. Ohio, 
 Fairport " 
 
 18 
 35 
 39 
 32 
 
 Miles. 
 
 39 
 
 57 
 
 92 
 
 131 
 
 163 
 
 Cleaveland, Ohio, • 
 Sandusky, " - • 
 Amherstburg, U. C. 
 Detroit, Mich. - - 
 
 Miles. 
 
 - 30 193 
 
 - 54 247 
 
 - 52 299 
 
 - 18 317 
 
 From Detroit to Chicago, Illinois. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 St. Clair river, Mich. - - 40 
 
 Palmer, 17 57 
 
 Fort Gratiot, - - - - 14 71 
 
 White Rock, .... 40 111 
 
 TImnder Island, ... - 70 181 
 
 Middle Island, - - .. 25 206 
 
 Presque Isle, ... - 65 271 
 
 Mackinaw, ..... ,58 
 
 Isle Brule, 75 
 
 Fort Howard, Wisconsin 
 
 Ter. 100 
 
 Milwaukee, W. T. - - . 310 
 Chicago, 111., .... 90 
 
 Milps. 
 329 
 404 
 
 504 
 
 814 
 904 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 65 
 
 From Cleveland to Portsmouth, via the Ohio Canal. 
 
 Cuyahoga aqueduct, 
 
 Old Portage, - - 
 
 Akron, - - - - 
 
 New Portago, - - 
 
 Clinton, - - - - 
 
 Massillon, - - - 
 
 Bethlehem, - - - 
 
 Bolivar, - . - - 
 
 Zoar, - - - - - 
 
 Dover - - - - - 
 
 New Philadelphia, - 
 
 Newcomers'town, - 
 
 Coshocton, - - - 
 
 Miles. 
 
 
 22 
 
 12 
 
 34 
 
 4 
 
 38 
 
 5 
 
 43 
 
 11 
 
 54 
 
 11 
 
 65 
 
 6 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 79 
 
 3 
 
 82 
 
 7 
 
 89 
 
 4 
 
 93 
 
 22 
 
 115 
 
 17 
 
 132 
 
 Irville, ..-..- 26 
 
 Newark, ------ 13 
 
 Hebron, ------ 10 
 
 Licking Summit, - - - 5 
 
 Lancaster Canaan, - - - 11 
 
 Columbus, side-cut, - - 18 
 
 Bloomfield, 8 
 
 Circleville, ----- 9 
 
 Chillicothe, 23 
 
 Piketon, 25 
 
 Lucasville, ----- 14 
 
 Portsmouth, (Ohio river,) 13 
 
 Miles 
 
 158 
 
 171 
 181 
 186 
 197 
 215 
 223 
 232 
 255 
 280 
 294 
 307 
 
 The most expeditious, pleasant, and direct route for travellers to the southern 
 parts of Ohio and Indiana; to^he Illinois river, as far north as Peoria; to the 
 Upper Mississippi as far as Quincy, Rock Island, Galena and Prairie du Chien ; to 
 Missouri, and to Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Natchez and New-Orleans, is one 
 of the southern routes. These are, — 1. From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, by rail- 
 roads and the Pennsylvania canal ; 2. By the Baltimore and Ohio rail-road and 
 stages, to Wheeling; or, 3. For people living to the south of Washington, by 
 stage, by the way of Charlottesville, (Virginia,) Staunton, the Hot, Warm, and 
 White-Sulphur Springs, Lewisburg, Charleston, to Guyandotte, whence a regular 
 line of steamboats runs three times a week to Cincinnati. Intermediate routes 
 from Washington city to Wheeling, or to Harper's Ferry, to Fredericksburg, and 
 intersect the route through Virginia, at Charlottesville. 
 
 From Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, by the rail-road and canal. 
 
 B 
 
 liles. 
 81 
 
 11 
 
 92 
 
 17 
 
 109 
 
 10 
 
 119 
 
 15 
 
 144 
 
 17 
 
 151 
 
 17 
 
 168 
 
 13 
 
 181 
 
 14 
 
 195 
 
 11 
 
 206 
 
 7 
 
 213 
 
 Petersburg, - - - - - 
 
 Alexandria, - - - - - 
 
 Frankstown and Hollidays- 
 
 burg, ------ 
 
 Thence, by rail-road, across 
 
 the mountain, to 
 Johnstown ----- 
 
 By canal, to 
 Blairsvillo, . - - - - 
 
 Saltzburg, - - - - - 
 
 Warren, ------ 
 
 Alleghany river, - - - 
 Pittsburgh, . - - - - 
 
 Miltfs. 
 
 8 221 
 23 244 
 
 3 247 
 
 Columbia, on the Susque- 
 hanna river, by rail-road, 
 daily, ------ 
 
 By canal packets to 
 
 Bainbridge, - - - - - 
 
 Middlctown, - - - - - 
 
 Harrisburg, - - - - - 
 
 Juniata river, - - - - 
 
 Millerstown, - - - - - 
 
 MitHin, 
 
 Lewistown, - - - - - 
 
 Waynesburg, - - - - 
 
 Hamiltonville, - - - - 
 
 Huntingdon, - - - - - 
 
 The Pioneer line, on this route, is exclusively for passengers, and professes to 
 reach Pittsburgh in four days, but is sometimes behind, several hours. Fare through, 
 !ff>10. Passengers pay for meals. 
 
 The Good Intent line is also for passengers only, and runs in competition with 
 the Pioneer line. 
 
 Leech's line, called the " Western Transportation line," takes both freight and 
 passengers. The packet-boats advertise to go through, to Pittsburg, in five days, 
 for $7. Midship and steerage passengers in the transportation line, in six and a 
 half days; — merchandise delivered in eight days. Generally, however, there is 
 some delay. Emigrants must not expect to carry more than a small trunk or two, 
 on the packet-lines. Those who take goods or furniture, and wish to keep with it, 
 
 38 285 
 
 35 320 
 
 18 338 
 
 12 350 
 
 16 366 
 
 28 394 
 
 T 
 
 6* 
 
66 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 had better take the transportation lines, with more delay. The price of meals on 
 board the boats is about thirty-seven and a half cents. 
 
 In all the steamboats on the western waters, no additional charge is made to 
 cabin passengers for meals ; — and the tables are usually profusely supplied. Strict 
 order is obse'rved, and the waiters and officers are attentive. 
 
 Steamboat route from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Ohio. 
 
 1 
 
 Middletown, Pa. - - - 
 
 Economy, " - - - - 
 
 Beaver, " . . - - 
 
 Georgetown, " - - - - 
 
 Steubenville, Ohio, - - 
 
 Wellsburgh, Va. - - - 
 
 Warren, Ohio, - - - - 
 
 Wheeling, Va. - - - - 
 
 Elizabethtown, Va. - - - 
 
 Sistersviile " . - - 
 
 Newport, Ohio, - - - - 
 
 Marietta, " . - - - 
 
 Parkersburg, Va. - - - 
 Bel pre and Blannerhasset's 
 
 Island, O., . - - - 
 
 Troy, Ohio, 
 
 Belleville, Va. - - - - 
 
 Letart's Rapids, Va, - - 
 
 Point Pleasant, " - - 
 
 Galiipolis, Ohio, - - - 
 
 Guyandotte, Va. - - - 
 
 Burlington, Ohio, - - - 
 
 Greensburg, Ky. . - - 
 
 Concord, Oliio, - - - - 
 Portsmouth (Ohio canal), 
 
 Vanceburg, Ky. - - - 
 
 Manchester, Ohio, - - - 
 
 Maysville, Ky. - - - - 
 
 Charleston, '•' - - - - 
 
 Ripley, Ohio, - - - - 
 
 Augusta, Ky. . - - - 
 
 Neville, Ohio, - - - - 
 
 Moscow, " - - - - 
 
 Point Pleasant, Ohio, - - 
 
 New Richmond, " - - 
 
 Columbia, " . - 
 
 Fulton, " - - 
 
 Cincinnati, " - - 
 
 North Bend, " - - 
 Lawrenceburg, Ind., and 
 
 mouth of the Miami, 
 
 Miles. 
 11 
 8 19 
 
 10 
 
 29 
 
 13 
 
 42 
 
 27 
 
 69 
 
 7 
 
 76 
 
 6 
 
 82 
 
 10 
 
 92 
 
 11 
 
 103 
 
 34 
 
 137 
 
 27 
 
 164 
 
 14 
 
 178 
 
 11 
 
 189 
 
 4 
 
 193 
 
 10 
 
 203 
 
 7 
 
 210 
 
 37 
 
 247 
 
 27 
 
 274 
 
 4 
 
 278 
 
 27 
 
 305 
 
 10 
 
 315 
 
 19 
 
 334 
 
 12 
 
 346 
 
 7 
 
 353 
 
 20 
 
 373 
 
 16 
 
 389 
 
 11 
 
 400 
 
 4 
 
 404 
 
 6 
 
 410 
 
 8 
 
 418 
 
 7 
 
 425 
 
 7 
 
 432 
 
 4 
 
 436 
 
 7 
 
 443 
 
 15 
 
 458 
 
 6 
 
 564 
 
 2 
 
 466 
 
 15 
 
 481 
 
 8 489 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 iles. 
 
 Aurora, Ind. - - - 
 
 . - 
 
 2 
 
 491 
 
 Petersburg, Ky. 
 
 . - 
 
 2 
 
 493 
 
 Bellevue, " 
 
 . - 
 
 8 
 
 501 
 
 Rising Sun, Ind. 
 
 . . 
 
 2 
 
 503 
 
 Fredericksburg, Ky. 
 
 - - 
 
 18 
 
 521 
 
 Vevay, Ind., and Ghent, Ky. 
 
 11 
 
 532 
 
 Port William, Ky. - 
 
 . . 
 
 8 
 
 540 
 
 Madison, Ind. - - 
 
 . . 
 
 15 
 
 555 
 
 New London, Ind. - 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 567 
 
 Bethlehem, " - 
 
 - - 
 
 8 
 
 575 
 
 Westport, Ky. - - 
 
 - - 
 
 7 
 
 582 
 
 Transj^ania, Ky. - 
 
 - - 
 
 15 
 
 595 
 
 Louisville, " 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 609 
 
 Shippingport, through the 
 
 
 
 canal, - - - - 
 
 - - 
 
 ^ 
 
 611i 
 
 New Albany, Ind. - 
 
 - - 
 
 n 
 
 613 
 
 Salt River, Ky. - - 
 
 . . 
 
 23 
 
 636 
 
 Northampton, Ind. - 
 
 . . 
 
 18 
 
 654 
 
 Leavenworth, " 
 
 . . 
 
 17 
 
 671 
 
 Fredonia, " 
 
 . . 
 
 2 
 
 673 
 
 Rome, " - 
 
 . . 
 
 32 
 
 705 
 
 Troy, " - 
 
 - - 
 
 25 
 
 730 
 
 Rockport, " - 
 
 - - 
 
 16 
 
 746 
 
 Owenburg, Ky. 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 758 
 
 Evansville, Ind. 
 
 . . 
 
 36 
 
 794 
 
 Henderson, Ky. - - 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 806 
 
 Mount Vernon, Ind. 
 
 . . 
 
 28 
 
 8:34 
 
 Carthage, Ky. - - 
 
 - - 
 
 12 
 
 846 
 
 Wabash river, Ky. - 
 
 . - 
 
 7 
 
 853 
 
 Shawneetown, 111. - 
 
 . - 
 
 11 
 
 864 
 
 Mouth of Saline, 111. 
 
 - . 
 
 12 
 
 876 
 
 Cave in Rock, " 
 
 - . 
 
 10 
 
 886 
 
 Golconda, " 
 
 - . 
 
 19 
 
 905 
 
 Smilhland, mouth of the 
 
 
 
 Cumberland river. 
 
 Ky.- 
 
 10 
 
 915 
 
 Paducah, mouth of 
 
 the 
 
 
 
 Tennessee river, Ky. - 
 
 13 
 
 928 
 
 Caledonia, 111. - - 
 
 . . 
 
 31 
 
 959 
 
 Trinity, mouth of Cash 
 
 
 
 river, 111. - - - 
 
 . 
 
 10 
 
 969 
 
 Mouth of the Ohio River, 6 
 
 975 
 
 Persons who wish to visit Indianapolis will stop at Madison, Indiana, and take 
 the stage conveyance. From Louisville, by the way of Vincennes, to St. Louis by 
 stage, every alternate day, 273 miles, tlirough in three days and a half Fare, 
 seventeen dollars. Stages run from Vincennes to Terre Haute and other towns 
 up the Wabash river. At Evansville, Indiana, stage lines are connected with 
 Vincennes and Terre Haute ; and at Shawneetown twice a week to Carlyle, Illi- 
 nois, where it intersects the line from Louisville to St. Louis. From Louisville to 
 Nashville by steamboats, passengers land at Smithland at the mouth of Cumberland 
 river, unless they embark direct for Nashville. In the winter, both stage and 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 67 
 
 steamboat lines are uncertain and irregular. Ice in the rivers frequently obstruct3 
 navigation, and higii waters and bad roads sometimes prevent stages from runnino- 
 regularly. 
 
 Farmers who remove to the west from the northern and middle states, will find 
 it advantageous, in many instances, to remove with their own teams and wagons. 
 These they will need upon their arrival. Autumn, or from September till Novem- 
 ber, is the favourable season for this mode of emigration. The roads are then in 
 good order, the weather usually favourable, and feed plenty. People of all classes, 
 from the states south of the Ohio river, remove with large wagons, carry and cook 
 their own provisions, purchase their feed by the bushel, and invariably encamp out 
 at night. 
 
 Individuals who wish to travel through the interior of Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, 
 Missouri, &c., will find that the most convenient, sure, economical, and independ- 
 ent mode, is on horseback. Their expenses will be from seventy-five cents to one 
 dollar fifty cents per day, and they can always consult their own convenience and 
 pleasure, as to time and place. 
 
 Stage fare is usually 6 cts. a mile, in the west. Meals, at stage-houses, 37^ cts. 
 
 Steamboat Fare, including Meals. 
 
 From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, -------------- $10 
 
 " Cincinnati to Louisville, ----------.._ 4 
 
 " Louisville to St. Louis, -------------- 12 
 
 And frequently the same from Cincinnati to SL Louis, — varying a little, however. 
 
 A deck passage, as it is called, may be rated as follows : — 
 
 From Pittsburg to Cincinnati, ------------ --^ 
 
 " Cincinnati to Louisville, -------------- 1 
 
 " Louisville to St. Louis, -------------- 4 
 
 The deck for such passengers is usually in the midship, forward of the engine, 
 and is protected from the weather. Passengers furnish their own provisions and 
 bedding. They often take their meals at the cabin-table, with tlie boat hands, and 
 pay twenty-five cents a meal. Thousands pass up and down the rivers as deck 
 passengers, especially emigrating families, who have their bedding, provisions, and 
 cooking utensils, on board. 
 
 The whole expense of a single person from New- York to St. Louis, by the way 
 of Philadelphia and Pittsburg, with cabin passage on the river, will range between 
 .'S40 and $45; — time, from twelve to fifteen days. Taking the transportation lines 
 on the Pennsylvania canal, and a deck passage in the steamboat, and the expenses 
 will range between $20 and $'25, supposing the person buys his meals at twenty- 
 five cents, and eats twice a day. If he carry his own provisions, the passage, &c. 
 will be from .$15 to ,f 18. 
 
 The following is from an advertisement of the Western Transportation, or Leech's 
 line, from Philadelphia: — 
 
 Miles. Days. Fare. 
 
 Fare to Pittsburg, 400 - - - - 6^ - - - - $6 00 
 
 Cincinnati, - - - - 900 - - - - 8^ - - - - 8 50 
 
 Louisville, - - - - 1050 - - - - 91 - . - - 9 00 
 
 " Nashville, - - - - 1650 - - - - 13| - - - - 13 00 
 
 " St. Louis, 1750 - - - - 14 - - - - 13 00 
 
 The above does not include meals. 
 
 Packet-boats for Cabin Passengers {same line). 
 
 Miles. Days. Fare. 
 
 Fare to Pittsburg, 400 - - - - 5 - - . . $7 00 
 
 Cincinnati, - - . - 900 - - - - 8 . - . - 17 00 
 
 I/iuisville, - - - - 1050 - - - - 9 - - - - 19 00 
 
 " Nashville, - - - - 16.50 - - - - 13 - - - - 27 00 
 
 St. Louis, 1750 - - - - 13 - - - - 27 00 
 
68 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 Emigrants and travellers will find it to their interest always to be a little scep- 
 tical relative to statements of stage, steamboat, and canal-boat agents ; to make 
 some allowance in their own calculations for delays, difficulties, and expenses; and 
 above all, to feel perfectly patient and in good humour with themselves, the offi- 
 cers, company, and the world, even if they do not move quite as rapidly, and fare 
 quite as well, as they desire. 
 
 LOCATION, METHOD OF FARMING, BUILDING, &c. 
 
 Upon emigrating to this country, it would be well for an eastern farmer to throw 
 off and forget many of his former habits and practices, and be prepared to accom- 
 modate himself to the nature of the soil, and the circumstances of the country; 
 else he will throw away much labour uselessly, and expend money unprofitably. 
 The first object is to find a suitable situation ; or, in the language of the country, 
 to locale himself. An entire stranger can hardly be expected to judge correctly 
 in relation to soil, and the advantages and disadvantages of location. If he arrives 
 in the dry season of autumn, he will be likely to select a level spot of prairie, 
 with a deep black soil, determined to have rich land at any rate, and perliaps in 
 the spring find himself ploughing in mud and water. If he looks at the appear- 
 ance of the timber, he will probably be deceived, and overlook some of the best 
 tracts. Advice from those who have long been residents in the country, would 
 save many inconveniences in location. 
 
 No emigrant need deceive himself with the notion that he can find a spot which 
 will combine all the advantages, and none of the disadvantages, of the country. 
 On every spot he examines, some indispensable thing will appear to be wanting. 
 Nor is it of any use for a man to travel the country to any great extent, to find as 
 many natural advantages as may satisfy moderate desires. The best policy for an 
 emigrant, after arriving in the Western Country, and fixing upon the district or 
 county in which he intends to reside, is to settle himself on the first spot he finds 
 that he thinks may answer his purpose, and resolve to abide there contentedly. 
 
 Let an emigrant purchase no more cattle, horses, hogs, &c., than those for wliich 
 he has immediate use, unless it is for breeders, and calves, in the fall, at eight or 
 nine months old : these are profitable stock to purchase. If an emigrant locate on 
 the frontiers, or in the newly settled portions of the country, his first object will 
 be to provide cabins for his family; and the less labour and expense in preparing 
 these, the better. Let a man and family go into any of the frontier settlements, 
 get a shelter, or even encamp out, call upon tlie people to aid him, and in three 
 days from the start he will have a comfortable cabin, and become identified as a 
 settler. No matter how poor he may be, or how much an entire stranger, if he 
 makes no apologies, does not show a niggardly spirit by contending about trifles, 
 and especially if he does not begin to dole out complaints about the country, and 
 the manners and habits of the people, and tell them the difference and superiority 
 of these things in the place whence he came, he will be received with blunt frank- 
 ness and unaffected hospitality. But if a man begins by affecting superior intelli- 
 gence and virtue, and catecliizing the people for their habits of plainness and sim- 
 plicity, and tlieir apparent want of those things which he imagines indispensable 
 to comfort, he may expect to be marked, shunned, and called in the way of sarcas- 
 tic reproach, a Yankee. 
 
 A principal characteristic of the western population is a blunt, unaffected hospi- 
 tality. They will make every stranger welcome, provided he will accept of it in 
 their own way. But he must make no complaints, throw out no insinuations, and 
 manifest an equal readiness to be frank and hospitable in turn. Enter whatever 
 house or cabin you may, if it is the time of meals, you are invited to share a por- 
 tion ; but you must eat what is set before you, asking no questions, and making no 
 invidious comparisons. Nor must you offer remarks on the accommodations you 
 have liad, or the unpleasant things you may have encountered at otlier places where 
 you have tarried ; as such remarks are considered as reflections upon the people, 
 and those by wliom you are now hospitably entertained will inter that you will 
 thus slander tlicm when you have departed. 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 69 
 
 When an emigrant has fixed his location, he next selects his building spot. 
 Much will depend upon a judicious choice, in regard to health. An elevated spot 
 of ground, remote from lakes and marshes, and where the air circulates freely from 
 all points of the compass, is desirable. If a river bottom is chosen, the house should 
 be as near the stream, on the highest ground, as is possible, without risk from the 
 washing in of the banks. Settlements directly on the margins of the Mississippi 
 and Missouri are healthy, compared with situations a i'ew hundred yards distance, 
 in the interior of the bottom. Where all other circumstances are equal, the south 
 or south-west side of the timber is the most desirable, as tliroughout the heat of 
 summer the winds are usually from the south-west and west, and the timber affords 
 protection from the cold north-winds of winter. But an exposure to the north or 
 north-west is far less disagreeable than would be imagined. In a very few years, 
 by means of orchards and shade trees, sufficient protection can be had. 
 
 All confined places should be avoided, such as ravines, and even coves, or points 
 of prairie surrounded by dense timber, unless an opening can be made immediately. 
 The currents in the atmosphere appear to act on the same principles as currents m 
 the water. W'here eddies and counter-currents are formed, there impure vapour 
 will concentrate. This is not only true in theory, but holds good in practical ob- 
 servation. When sickness prevails in a family, or a little settlement, the intelli- 
 gent and observing physician immediately looks about for the cause ; and if lie de- 
 tects nothing in the immediate vicinity to generate miasmata, he will probably dis- 
 cover circumstances that cause an eddy or a current of impure air, around the 
 dwelling. The remark has been .made by observant physicians, that severe sick- 
 ness has prevailed in a family located at the head of a small ravine, while other 
 families at a few rods' distance have entirely escaped. Physicians and philosophers 
 have not yet determined the nature of that miasma which invariably produces yel- 
 low, bilious, intermittent, and other summer and autumnal fevers ; but if it is a 
 species of carbonic gas, as some think, it is heavier than the surrounding atmo- 
 sphere, is more dense on low grounds and bottoms, and in ravines, and naturally 
 concentrates in confined places. But whatever may be its nature as a remote cause 
 of disease, it is enough for practical purposes to know, that any spot where the air 
 is confined, as a cove in the timber or bluff", or where it is forced through a passage, 
 as the head of a ravine, is always less healthy than a spot freely ventilated or on 
 elevated ground. 
 
 Having fixed on the spot, the next step is to provide cabins or temporary build- 
 ings. These, and all other dwellings, should be so arranged as to promote venti- 
 lation in the summer. The door and other apertures should be opposite each other, 
 the chimney at the end ; and if a double cabin or one of two rooms is designed, a 
 space of 10 or 12 feet between them should be left, and roofed over. Forks may 
 be set in the ground, and porches or sheds may be made on the sides, eight feet in 
 width. The cost is triffing, and they add greatly to the coolness of the dwelling 
 in summer, and its warmth in winter, besides protecting the body of the house 
 from rains. Hundreds of cabins are made without a nail or particle of iron about 
 them, or a single piece of sawed plank. 
 
 The first buildings put up are cabins made of logs, which are constructed after 
 the following manner : Straight trees are felled of a size that a common team can 
 draw, or, as the phrase is, 'snake' them to the intended spot. The common form 
 of a large cabin is that called a 'double cabin;' that is, two square pens, with an 
 open space between, connected by a roof above and a floor below, so as to form a 
 parallelogram of nearly triple the length of its depth. In the open space the fami- 
 ly take their meals, during the pleasant weather; and it serves the threefold pur- 
 pose of kitchen, lumber-room, and dining-room. The logs of which it is composed 
 are notched on to one another in the form of a square. The roof is covered with 
 thin splits of oak, not unlike staves. Sometimes they are made of ash, and in the 
 lower country, of cypress ; and they are called clapboards. Instead of being 
 nailed, they are generally confined in their place by heavy timber, laid at right 
 angles across them. This gives the roof of a cabin a unique and shaggy appear- 
 ance; but if the clapboards have been en refully prepared from good timber, they 
 form a roof sufficiently impervious to common rains. The floors are made from 
 
70 GENERAL VIEW OF 
 
 short and thick plank, split from the yellow poplar, Cottonwood, black walnut, and 
 sometimes oak. They are confined with wooden pins, and are technically called 
 'puncheons.' If an emigrant can furnish a few pounds of nails, and a dozen panes 
 of glass, he may add to his comforts ; and if a saw-mill is near, and plank or boards 
 cheap, he may save himself the labour of splitting puncheons or slabs for floors 
 and doors. In addition to the cabin, he will need a meat-house, a corn-crib, and 
 stables, all built of logs in the same rough manner. If an emigrant has plenty of 
 money, and sawed lumber can be gotten conveniently, he may put up a frame barn 
 as soon as he pleases. If he has not the advantage of a good spring, he should dig 
 a well immediately, which will cost four or five days' labour, and will stand some 
 time without walling. In making all these improvements, all cash expenses should 
 be avoided as much as possible, unless a man has money to spend freely. The next 
 step is to prepare a farm. If the settler locate himself in barrens, or in timbered 
 land, he has to grub out the small growth, preparatory to ploughing ; that is, dig 
 them up by the roots with an instrument called a mattock. It is true, that land 
 covered with bushes can be plouglied, and the stumps left in the ground, as well 
 or better than in the north ; but it will require more labour in the end to subdue 
 the sprouts that will strive for the mastery, than to clear the land at once. It usu- 
 ally requires from three to six days' labour to grub an acre. The small growth in 
 timbered lands is taken out in the same manner. If a settler has located himself 
 in a timbered tract, which in this prairie country is wretched policy, he grubs up 
 the small growth, girdles the trees, and puts in the plough. 
 
 Prairie land requires a strong team, and a large plough kept very sharp, to break 
 it up thoroughly. This must be done well, and every particle of the sward turned 
 over ; or it had better be let alone. 
 
 Farms somewhat improved are almost daily exchanging owners, and a consider- 
 able spirit of enterprize has been awakened within a year or two past. The prices 
 of farms and improvements vary greatly, and are influenced much by factitious and 
 local circumstances. From St. Clair county northward, they average probably 
 from five to ten dollars per acre, and are rising in value. In some counties, farms 
 will cost from two to five dollars per acre. A farm in Illinois, however, means a 
 tract of land ; much of it is in a state of nature, with some cheap and frequently 
 log buildings, with 20, 40, 60, 80, or 100 acres, fenced and cultivated. Good dwell- 
 ings of brick, stone, or wood, begin to be erected. Amongst the older residents 
 there have been but few bams made. 
 
 The want of adequate supplies of lumber, and of mechanics, renders good build- 
 ings more expensive than in the country parts of New-England or New-York. 
 
 Merchants' goods, groceries, household-furniture, and almost every necessary 
 and comfort in housekeeping, can be purchased here ; and many articles retail at 
 about tlie same prices as in the Atlantic States. 
 
 The following table will exhibit the cost of 320 acres of land, at Congress price, 
 and preparing 160 acres for cultivation or prairie land : 
 
 Cost of 320 acres, at Sl,25 per acre, $400 
 
 Breaking up 160 acres prairie, at $2 per acre, ------.- 320 
 
 Fencing into four fields, with a Kentucky fence of eight rails [high, 
 
 with cross stakes, - - ...-...--...- 175 
 
 Add cost of cabins, corn-cribs, stable, &c. - -------- 250 
 
 Making the cost of the farm, --.---.-.---- <|1145 
 
 In many instances, a single crop of wheat will pay for the land, for fencing, 
 breaking up, cultivating, harvesting, threshing, and taking to markeL All kinds 
 of mechanical labour, especially those in the building line, are in great demand ; 
 and workmen, even very coarse and common workmen, get almost any price they 
 ask. Journeymen mechanics get two dollars per day. A carpenter, bricklayer, or 
 mason, wants no other capital to do a first-rate business, and soon become indepen- 
 dent, than a set of tools, and habits of industry, sobriety, economy, and enterprize. 
 
 Common labourers on the farm obtain from twelve to fifteen dollars per month, 
 including board. Any young man, with industrious habits, can begin here with- 
 out a dollar, and in a very few years become a substantial farmer. A good cradler 
 
THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 71 
 
 in the harvest-field will earn from one dollar and a half to two dollars per 
 day. 
 
 The most affectionate counsel (says Mr. Flint) we wonld give an immigrant, after 
 an acquaintance with all the districts of the Western Country of sixteen years, 
 is to regard the salubrity of the spot selected, as a consideration of more impor- 
 tance than its fertility, or vicinity to a market ; to supply himself with a good 
 manual of domestic medicine, if such a manual is to be found ; still more, to obtain 
 simple and precise notions of the more obvious aspects of disease, — an acquisition 
 worth a hundred times its cost; and, more than all to a backwoodsman, to have a 
 lancet and sufficient experience and firmness of hand to open a vein ; to have a 
 small but well-labelled and well-supplied medicine-chest; and to be, after all, very 
 cautious about either taking or administering its contents, reserving them for 
 emergencies, and for a choice of evils ; to depend for health, on temperance, mode- 
 ration in all things, a careful conformity in food and dress to circumstances and the 
 climate, and particularly let him observe a rigid and undeviating abstinence from 
 that loathsome and murderous western poison, whiskey, which may be pronounced 
 the prevalent miasm of the country. Let every immigrant learn the mystery and 
 provide the materials to make good beer. Let him also, during the season of ac- 
 climation, especially in the sultry months, take medicine by way of prevention, 
 twice or thrice, with abstinence from labour a day or two at\erwards. Let him 
 have a Bible for a constant counsellor, and a few good books for instruction and 
 amusement. Let him have the dignity and good sense to train his family religious- 
 ly, and not to be blown about by every wind of doctrine in religion, politics, or 
 opinions. Let his rifle rust, and let the game, unless it come into his field, live 
 on. Let him cultivate a garden of choice fruit, as well as a fine orchard. Let 
 him keep bees, for their management unites pleasure and profit. Let him prepare 
 for silk-making on a small and gradual scale. Let him cultivate grapes by way 
 of experiment. Let him banish unreal wants, and learn the master secret of 
 self-possession, and be content with such things as he has, aware that every posi- 
 tion in life has advantages and trials. Let him assure himself that if an indepen- 
 dent farmer cannot be happy, no man can. Let him magnify his calling, respect 
 himself, envy no one, and raise to the Author of all good constant aspirations of 
 thankfulness as he eats the bread of peace and privacy." 
 
 HISTORY. 
 
 The name which now belongs exclusively to this state was, during a great part 
 of the last century, bestowed upon all that vast tract of country whidi lies north 
 and west of the Ohio, and was derived from the Illini or Illinois, a tribe which 
 appears to have possessed the country situated on the banks of the Illinois river. 
 They were noted for their hospitality, generosity, and kind treatment of strangers. 
 The name is said by Hennepin to signify a full-grown man. The first settlements 
 within the present limits of Illinois, were, like those of Indiana, made by the 
 French, and were the consequence of the adventurous enterprize of M. De la 
 Salle, in search of the Mississippi. This traveller set out from Canada, in the 
 year 1670, in company with Father Hennepin and a few followers, and, passing up 
 the lakes to the head of Lake Michigan, descended the Illinois river. After re- 
 maining some time, he returned to Canada; from whence he set out with a num- 
 ber of volunteers in 1673, for Illinois, and shortly afterwards founded the settle- 
 ments of Kaskaskia and Cahobia. Here La Salle left his colony, and descended 
 the Mississippi to its mouth. At the commencement of the eighteenth century, 
 the settlements in Illinois are represented to have been in a flourishing situation. 
 The descriptions given by French writers of the country at this time, were of the 
 most captivating kind ; its beautiful scenery, fertile prairies, and supposed mineral 
 wealth, were painted in glowing colours, and a new paradise seemed to open to 
 Frenchmen on the banks of the Illinois. 
 
 At the termination of hostilities between the French and English, in 1763, the 
 Illinois country, with Canada, was ceded to the British government : and in 1705, 
 Capt. Sterling, of the royal Highlanders, took possession of Illinois. He was sue- 
 
72 GENERAL VIEW OF THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 ceec ed by Major Farmer who was relieved by Col. Reed in 1766. The princioal 
 nnhtary post and seat of government during these changes, was at fort Chanres 
 
 rhe admmistration ot Col. Reed was extremely unpopular with the inhaS aS' 
 and is said to have been a course of military ooDression In MR<^ "''^ ^'^idDuants, 
 ed by Lieut. Col. W.lluns, who established rcrrr^HustL^e^'mll'^^^^^^^^^^ 
 and appom ted seven judges to settle all matters relative to debts and pro pertly ^' 
 
 During the revolutionary war, the Virginia milit.a, under command of General 
 George Rodgers Clarke, made an excursion through the Indian country, subjuS 
 tort Char res, Kaskaskia, and other posts on the Mississippi, and then conducted a 
 successtul expedition against Port Vincent, now Vincenne . This was in mS 
 Ihe same year the legislature of Virginia organized a county m thTs remote re' 
 
 ftvl'l'd'' 'V"^"?"'"' '"^ ^T''''''^ ^ "'''Sl^''^'' °^'^r ^t witl/ext n^ive Iwers' 
 .tyled heutenant-goveror. Timotliy Demonbrun was appointed to this office' 
 llus territory was afterwards ceded by Vircrinia to the United StntP« .^^ % J 
 a portion of the North-western Territory, by Xle tth^'or ^'' h^e ^ 
 was divided, and the names of St. Clair and Randolph given In 1800 it was in 
 eluded within the limits of Indiana territory, and at that time the c'ounrry that 
 forms the present state of Illinois contained about 3000 inhabitant Manyjf the 
 officers and soldiers that accompanied General Clarke in his expedit on became 
 enamoured with the country, returned with their families and forrned the ear v 
 
 18^J^'^terSi.^^"^' "'' P«P";^ti«» ^"/'•e-^ed considerably from emigration. In 
 alu'nted ^o iS ^^^^'•""'ent was formed, and the population thi next year 
 
 Ss Tllinni f '""^- ^' u '^ ^" ''^^^^'^^" G'-eat ^"tain and the United 
 
 States, Illinois m common vvith other frontier districts, felt the calamities of war- 
 
 Icross U.e ter ft"ory to S ' '"^^ ''"' f '^^"ft^' '^^"^ '""^ "^"^'^ «^ ^^e M^L i 
 ^ZZi ^^"i^ory to Shawneetown, depended upon the energy and vio-iknce of 
 
 In 8 2%he Ijrr f '^^' -"Vl^^'M'^^^"^ ^^^^'"°'-' '^' l^^el^inian Edwards. 
 
 in IbU, the territory, which had been under the government of the P-overnnr 
 and judges, entered upon the second grade of territorial govemmen vvUlfaleSs 
 atnre, and a delegate in Congress." In 1818, the conltitutrvvas framed fnd 
 Illinois was received into the Union as the twenty-second state. ' 
 
 Ihe constitution of this state does not admit involuntary servitude or the tennrp 
 by which masters hold slaves. Some unsuccessful efforts^were mad; bv he fmm? 
 fiSiolT '^" «lave-holding states to have it amended to admi^of slave t The 
 
 Topo ed """iTtlfl "F'T"^ '" ?' ^T''^ ""'^ ^ ^°"^-^"t*«" f- the pur^se was 
 pioposed But the moderation and good sense of the people allowed this irritafino- 
 
 rrlfsulft m H^ '^'T'''- ;Th-^--t state, ^vit?i untied a Jfmf 
 ropulous'arpov-rJr^ "^ ^^-^"^^"-1-^ - affluence, must ultimately become 
 
 to kndsfn'irimoTs'to tl'i'' ^"^""f ''""' ''^'^ 'K''^'''^^ ^^ '^'^' territorial claim 
 Entire fVeedl?VnmfK f"^^^! government. The country experienced almost 
 entire freedom from their depredations after the late war with Great Britain until 
 miftp"^ ^^ ^"'i'" ^^^ T^'Ses, under their celebrated chief. Black Hawk com 
 
 no hern n'r^t '7h 'T^'^'C ""'^ ^"' ^ *""« ^^^^^ed considerable alarm in the 
 sTnce settledln^th?' '""^ ^"'^p"n ^^L^-^"^"^ '"'^^'^^^ ^^e remnant have been 
 danger from the sLp .« ^^ """'.' f '''" Mississippi river, and all apprehensions of 
 uctuger irom the same cause in future entirely removed. 
 
SKETCHES OF EACH COUNTY 
 
 THE STATE OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 ADAMS County is bounded north by Hancock, soutli by Pike, east by Schuyler 
 and Pike counties, and west by the Mississippi river, which forms its boundary for 
 about 33 miles: it was organized from Pike coimty in 1825, and contains about 800 
 square miles, or upwards of lialf a million acres, and is in length 30 miles, with 
 an average breadth of about 25. 
 
 This county is well proportioned into prairie and timber land, and is inferior to 
 none in tiie state in the quality and fertility of its soil. The population in 1835 
 was 7042, and consists mostly of industrious and enterprizing farmers. Its streams 
 are Bear creek and branches, M'Kee's creek, Mill, Fall, and Pigeon creeks. 
 
 Its county town is Quincy, situated on a bluif of the Mississippi : it is the seat 
 of the land "office tor the sale of the public lands north and east of the Illinois river, 
 and is a place of considerable business. The other places in Adams county are 
 Columbus, Clayton, Guilford, Fairfield, and Payson, which are all small villages. 
 The latter, about 15 miles soutli-east from Quincy, is a thriving place, surrounded 
 by a well settled country ; it contains several stores, which transact a considerable 
 amount of business. 
 
 ALEXANDER is the most southern county in the state, and comprises the 
 peninsula situated between the Mississippi and Ohio rivers. It is bounded north 
 by Union, and east byjojinson county, on the west and south by the Mississippi, 
 and south-east by the Ohio river; it is 24 miles long, with an average width of 18 
 miles; the area is about 37S squire miles. This county is generally well tim- 
 bered, and its soil fertile. It is watered by Cash river, a small stream emptying 
 into the Ohio river seven miles above its junction with the Mississippi. 
 
 This county, although so favourably situated at the junction of two large and 
 important rivers, derives from this circumstance little or no advantage. Here, 
 where we should naturally expect to tind a large and flourishing town, the entrepot 
 of produce and merchandise passing to and from the north, east, south, and west, 
 we hive little else than the remains of a deserted warehouse. It unfortunately 
 happens that at, and for a considerable distance above the junction of these streams, 
 their b.inks are low, and subject to annual inundations; and such is the height to 
 which the water rises on them, that they could not, without much expense, be 
 made safe, and, far less, comfortable places of residence. The importance of a 
 good town site immediately at the junction of these two streams, has for many 
 years excited the attention of the enterprizing; and accordingly various plans have 
 been suggested to accomplish this object by artificial means, but as yet without 
 liuccess. The population of this county in 1835, was 2050. 
 
 Its seat of justice is Unity, a small place lately laid out on Cash river. Trinity, 
 Caledonia, and Napoleon, are villages on the Ohio river. 
 
 BOND Cnnn'y is watered by the Kaskaskia river and its tributaries. Its sur- 
 face is generally level or gently undulating, and duly proportioned into timber and 
 prairie. This county was taken from Madison in 1817, and was formerly more 
 extensive than at present ; its area is 3G0 square miles ; length 20, and breadth 18 
 miles : it is watered by Shoal creek and its branches, and is bounded on the north 
 
74 SICETCIIES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 by Montgomery, east by Fayette, south by Clinton, and west by Madison county. 
 The population in 1835, was 35S0. 
 
 Its seat of justice is Greenville, a pleasant villao^e on the east fork of Shoal 
 creek: it contains about 2(.K( inhabitants. It has four stores, three taverns, three 
 physicians, one lawyer, and mechanics of various trades. 
 
 BOONE is one of the most northern counties in the state. It is bounded on 
 the nortli by Rock and Walworth counties of Wisconsin territory, south by Kane, 
 east by M'Henry, and west by Winnebago county. It contains an area of 5l!4 
 square mile.s, and is in length 24, and in breadth 21 miles, and was formed in 1837 
 from portions of Winnebago and M'Henry counties, and contains a population 
 estimated at GOO. 
 
 Most of tlie land in this and the adjoining counties, is yet unsurveyed, and of 
 course has not been offered for sale by the general government. It is, notwitii- 
 standing, rapidly settling up with an enterprizing population. The soil is fertile, 
 and well adapted to raising all tlie different kinds of agricultural produce common 
 to this part of the state: the surface is mostly a rich undulating prairie, with a 
 considerable quantity of timber scattered over the county, principally in groves 
 and oak openings, of wJiich the chief of tiie former is JNorwegian Grove. Boone 
 county is, for judicial purposes, attached to Jo Daviess. Its county seat is not yet 
 laid off. 
 
 The only town in the county is Belvidere, a small settlement on the stage road 
 from Chicago to Galena. It is in the western part of the county, on Squaw prairie, 
 and has a delightl'ul appearance. Near the town site is a mound, fiity rods long ' 
 and about thirty roils wide, elevated seventy feet above the bottom lands of Rock 
 river. On the top of this mound is the cemetery of an Indian called Big ThuniUr. 
 He died about the period of the Sank war in 1831 or 1832, and was placed in a 
 sitting posture on a flig mat, wrapped in blankets, his scalpmg-knife by his side to 
 cut the plugs of tobacco that are otlered him. Over the body is constructed a cov- 
 ering of wood and earth, with an opening in front, where Big Thunder may be 
 seen sitting, with his tobacco lying before him. The Indians still visit the place 
 to replenish his stores of tobacco, whiskey, &lc. 
 
 Tiie citizens of this region arc about to erect a college edifice on this spot, in a 
 vault under which the bones of Big Thunder will repose unmolested. A charter 
 was granted for the purpose at the recent session of the legislature. 
 
 CALHOUN County occupies the most southern part of the Military Bounty 
 tract, and is a long narrow piece of land lying between the Mississippi and Illinois 
 rivers, about 37 miles in length, and from 4 to 12 miles in breadth, containing an 
 area of about 264 square miles. On the rivers considerable tracts are subject to 
 inundation, and in the interior are bluffs, ravines, and sink holes; still there are 
 considerable portions of good land, and the bottoms furnish e.Kcellent range for 
 stock. Cattle, beef, pork, corn, honey and beeswax are its exports. Coal in large 
 bodies is found on the Mississippi in the southern part of the county. 
 
 Guilford, on the west side of the Illinois river, and about 15 miles from its 
 mouth, is the seat of justice; it has been but lately settled, and is said to be well 
 situated for business purposes. A company has been chartered to cut a canal from 
 the Illinois river at Guiltbrd, to the Mississippi, near Gilead ; the distance does not 
 exceed three miles, and by tunnelling a short distance under the bluff, it is said 
 the work can be accomplished, and a steamboat canal constructed at comparatively 
 small expense. This communication would save fi.ly miles navigation Irom the 
 Illinois river to the upper Mississippi ; and as the latter is elevated considerably 
 above the former, would create an immense water-power, which is the object of 
 the company. The other towns are, Gilead, the late seat of justice, three-fourths 
 of a mile from, and Milan and Hamburg on, tlie Mississippi, and Belleview on Bay 
 river. 
 
 CASS County is, next to Wabash, the smallest in the state. It was laid off 
 fVom the north part of Morgan county in 1837, and contains a little more than seven 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS, 75 
 
 full townships, or about 260 square miles. It is 29 miles in extent trom east to 
 west, and averaging' about 11 broad. It is bounded on the north by Sangamon 
 county, from which it is separated from tlie river of the same name, soutti by Mor- 
 gan, east by Sangamon, and west by Schuyler, the Illinois river forming the bound- 
 ary. The land is about equally divided into timber and prairie, tlie surface undu- 
 lating, and the soil generally very rich. It is well settled, the population being 
 i estimated at about (J5U0. 
 
 Tiie towns are Beardstown, Virginia, Monroe, and Richmond. The first is the 
 seat of justice, and oue of tlie most thriving places on the Illinois river; its com- 
 merce is extensive, and it is the depot for the produce of a large region of country. 
 Virginia is a town lately laid off, nearly in tlie centre of the county, on the main 
 road from Beardstown to Springfield, 12 miles from the former and 88 from the 
 latter; the site is higli and dry, partly prairie and partly timber, and very healtliy. 
 Jt contains already three stores,a tavern, a school for females, and another for boys a 
 short distance from the town ; a church, and several public improvements are in 
 progress, 
 
 CHAMPAIGN County is bounded on the north by the attaclied part of Ver- 
 million, on the south by Coles, east by Vermillion, and on the west by Macon and 
 M'Jjcan counties, and is 3G miles in length, by 30 in breadth; area 1080 square 
 miles. It is watered by the head streams of the Sangamon, Kaskaskia, and Big 
 Vermillion. The county contains extensive prairies, indented with beautiful 
 groves of fine timber, with a rich and fertile soil ; it is well adapted to the growth 
 of stock, and will prove undoubtedly a healthy region. This county was organized 
 from Vermillion in 1833 ; inhabitants in 1835, lOil. 
 
 The county town is Urbanna, a small village, situated on the Salt Fork of Ver- 
 million river, 
 
 CLARK County is bounded north by Edgar, south by Crawford, west by Coles 
 county, and east by Wabash river and the state of Indiana. It is from 28 to 20 
 miles in extent from east to west, and 21 from north to south ; area about 500 
 square miles. Its streams are, the north fork of the Embarras river. Mill Creek, 
 and Big Creek. The surface is tolerably well proportioned into timber and prairie, 
 with some first-rite soil, although the main part of it is but second-rate. This 
 county was formed from Crawford, in 1819, and contained in 1835, 3413 inhabitants. 
 
 Its seat of justice is Marshall, on the Nation-il Road. The other towns are Dar- 
 win, Livingston, Martinsville, and Melrose. lavingston is on the National Road, 
 112 miles north-east from Vand;ilia, and 14 south-west from Terre Haute. It has 
 three stores, three groceries, three taverns, one physician, two ministers of the 
 gospel, various mechanics, and about 150 inhabitants. 
 
 CLAY County is bounded on the north by Jasper and Effingham, south by 
 Wayne and Edwards, east by Lawrence, and west by Marion and Fayette coun- 
 ties. It is in length about 30 miles, and in breadth 21 miles, containing an area 
 of about 620 square miles. Its streams are the Little Wabash and its tributaries. 
 About two-thirds of the surface is prairie of an inferior quality. This county was 
 formed from Wayne, Lawrence, Crawford, and Fayette, in 1824, and contained in 
 1835, 1648 inhabitants. 
 
 The towns are iMaysville and Louisville. The former is the county town, and 
 is situated in Twelve-mile Prairie, not far from the right bank of the Little Wabash 
 river. 
 
 CLINTON County is bounded north by Bond, south by Washington, east by 
 Marion, and west by St. Clair and Madison counties. It is 30 miles long, and 18 
 wide, with an area of 504 square miles. The streams which water this county 
 are the Kaskaskia river, and its tributaries Crooked, Shoal, and Sugar creeks. It 
 is about equally proportioned into prairie and timber land, with an undulating sur- 
 face ; the soil is mostly second-rate. Clinton was formed in 1824, from Washing- 
 ton and Bond counties, and contained in 183.5, 2648 inhabitants. 
 
76 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 Its county town is Carlyle, a village of about 200 inhabitants, situated on the 
 west bank of the Kaskaskia river, 100 miles from its mouth, and contains five 
 stores, three taverns, and a grist and saw mill. 
 
 COLES County is situated in the eastern part of the state, and is bounded north 
 by Champaign, south by Jasper and Effingham, east by Edgar and Clark, and west 
 by Shelby and Macon counties. It is 48 miles long, and from 28 to 24^ wide, 
 containing VZ'S'S square miles. It it watered by the Kaskaskia and Embarras 
 rivers and their branches; these generally run over a bed of sand, and afford many 
 good mill-sites. Most part of the land is excellent, in some parts prairie predomi- 
 nates, but in general the surface is well proportioned into prairie and wood land. 
 This county was formed in 1830, from Clark and Eldgar, and contained in 1835, 
 5125 inhabitants. Most of the settlements are of recent formation ; but its agri- 
 cultural productions must soon exceed those of any other county near the Wabash, 
 and will find their way to that river for market. 
 
 The county town is Charleston, a village situated on the border of Grand Prairie, 
 two and a half miles from, and on the west side of the Embarras river, containing 
 about 200 inhabitants. 
 
 COOK County is bounded north by M'llenry, south by Will, east by lake 
 Michigan and part of the state of Indiana, and west by Kane county ; it extends 
 from north to south 42 miles, and from east to west 33 miles, and contains an area 
 of about 1220 square miles. It is watered by the Des Planes, Calumet and Chicago 
 rivers, and embraces a tract of country tolerably level, of a rich soil, with large 
 prairies, and the timber mostly in groves. This county was organized in 1831, and 
 has been settled with great rapidity, numbering in 163-5, 9826 inhabitants. 
 
 Its seat of justice is Chicago: the other towns have all been recently settled, 
 and are quite small; they are Canal Port, Napiersville, Des Planes, Keepotaw, 
 and Thornton. 
 
 CRAWFORD County is 21 miles long, and from 22 to 16 broad, and contains 
 about 400 square miles. It is bounded north by Clark, south by Lawrence county, 
 east by the Wabash river and the state of Indiana, and west by .lasper county. It 
 contains a large proportion of prairie land, of which La Motte Prairie is a level and 
 rich tract, well adapted to the growth of corn. The streams which water this 
 county are tributaries of the Wabash and Embarras rivers; of the former are Rac- 
 coon, Hutson, Sugar, and La Motte creeks. Crawford county was laid off in 1816, 
 and was formerly much more extensive than at present. It contained in 1835, 
 3540 inhabitants. 
 
 The seat of justice is Palestine, situated about three miles west of the Wabash 
 river. Here are the offices of the receiver and register for the land district of 
 Palestine : the inhabitants are about 220 in number. The other towns in the 
 county are Le Roy, Ilutsonville, and York. York is situated on the west bank of 
 the Wabash river, about 50 miles by the stream above Vincennes, and in the north- 
 east corner of the county. It contains four stores, one steam saw and flouring 
 mill, and a population of about 300 inhabitants. Its exports amount to $40,000. 
 
 EDGAR County is bounded north by Vermillion, south by Clark, east by the 
 state of Indiana, and west by Coles county. It extends from north to soutii 27 
 miles, and from east to west 25 miles; area, about 660 square miles. It contains 
 much prairie land in the western and southern sections; the remainder is tolerably 
 well timbered. The soil is in general fertile, and well adapted to the various pro- 
 ductions of this state. Edgar was formed from Clark county in 1823, and contained 
 in 183.5, a population of 6668. 
 
 The chief town is Paris, the county seat, a pleasant village on the borders of a 
 rich prairie, surrounded with good farms, with a population of 200 inhabitants. 
 The other towns are Grand View, and Bloomtield ; the former is a small village 12 
 miles south-east from Paris ; it is on, and surrounded by, a beautiful rolling rich 
 prairie. 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 77 
 
 EDWARDS County is watered by the Little Wabash, Bon Pas, and their 
 brandies. It contains a considerable proportion of prairie land, most of which is 
 verv fertile The prairies are principally small, high, undulating and bounded by 
 heavy timber; thus presenting every inducement to the agriculturist. It is on 
 one of these that the English settlement formed by Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers i 
 ^"located. This county is 22 miles long from north to south, and 16 trom east to 
 vest with an area of about 3.>5 square miles. It was formed in 1814 from Galla- 
 Im, and L bounded north by Lawrence, south by White, east by Wabash, and west 
 hv'Wavne county : inhabitants in 183.5, 2003. 
 
 ^The county-town, Albion, is situated on a high and healthy situa ion, bein^ little 
 subject to those diseases which are so prevalent in many parts ot this state durino: 
 
 he summer and autumn. The surroundmg country is very ter . e an.l is hand- 
 somely Xersified with woodland and prairie; it contains about 20U inhabitants. 
 
 FFFINGHAM County is bounded north by Shelby and Coles, south by Clay 
 
 1 and Fayelte, east by Jasper, and west by Fayette county Area 436 square miles ; 
 
 ?enatS miles, and breadth 21. It is watered by the LitUe Wabash and its ri- 
 
 buta es and contains good second-rate land nearly level. The bottom lands on the 
 
 ' LkUe Wabash are tolerably rich, and heavily timbered. Th'^ /ouiUy vvas taken 
 
 tVom Fayette in the year 1831 : its inhabitants in 183-3 numbered lUoo Evvmgton 
 
 he counCtown, is on the National Road, 29 miles north-east from Vanda ha, and 
 
 IssUuated on the west bank of the Little Wabash river, on an elevated site, sur- 
 
 rounded with timber. 
 
 FAYETTE County was created in 1821, and at the time of its first formation 
 was nearly 200 miles in length, but has since been divided into several counties. 
 rLboun'd^d north by Shelby, south by Marion. and Cl-ton, east by Effi^^^^^ 
 and west by Bond and Montgomery counties. It is from SS to 27 miles long, a i<J 
 24 b^oad ; and contains 684%quare miles. It is watered by the Kaskaskia river 
 and its tributaries, the principal of which in this county are Hurricane l;orl., Ram- 
 Ws aid Beck' s, on the west, and Hickory and Big creeks on the east. I he bank^s 
 nf^i P Kiskaskia are cenerally fow, and subject to inundation: a rise in this stream 
 ? f e^^ently o^^^^^^^^ by slight r^ins, in consequence of the numerous tributaries. 
 
 Th sLweJer'Ts only of shorl duration. There is in this county a heavy growth 
 of t imbeTaTon- the Kaskaskia river and Hurricane Fork; there is also a good por- 
 tion of prairie land. The soil is mostly second-rate. In 183o, the population 
 
 'Tie'semina?/ Township is a settlement in the south-west corner of the county 
 bein township five north and one west of the third principal meridian. It is a 
 I townlshbof land, 38 miles square, granted by congress to I linois for purposes ot 
 T^. nn Tthas since been relinquished to the general government, and in 
 Ice li'eo an equalquan it? i.L b\ selected from unsold lands within the^state. 
 fteKaskSkirrScr^,s.sesitssouth-^ part, and the Hurricane Fork runs 
 
 throun-h it near its western boundary. 
 
 It IS proportioned into timber and prairie, contains much good land, and about 
 
 ' '^ThTseat'of justice is Vandalia, the present capital of the state. 
 
 FRANKLIN County is situated in the southern part of the state, and is bounded 
 nortlbv Jefferson, south by Johnson and Union, east by Hamil on and Callatm, 
 and ve^t by Jack on and Randolph counties. It is 36 miles in length and 24 in 
 b?.aUV i s area is 8B4 square miles. This county is watered by Big Muddy rive 
 flu V ^\Z. nf S-,line creek It is well timbered ; the prairies are generally 
 ^mall a?d'St. le; and prod"^^^ in the soil. The banks of the streams are 
 
 ?r and sibipct to annual inundations. Franklin is similar in character and pro- 
 
 Sii^ns S'^ie neighbouring counties; and f.^^^^^^^^:,:^ t^i 
 ' u i^;,t,.;^t This pniiiitv was ortranized in 181H, and in l>i.:) conuniuu .>( <i. 
 
 i S,;;i>t„t F^ankiwae ?ou«.y .o«n, is a snv.U village, si.uated „„ a tr.buUry 
 
78 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 of the middle fork of Big Muddy creek, an elevated ground, on the main stage- 
 road trom Shawneetown to St Louis. 
 
 FULTON County is situated in the Military Bounty Tract, on the west bank 
 of the Ilhnois river. It is bounded north by Knox and Peoria, south by Schuyler, 
 .?ast by Peoria, Tazewell, and Sangamon, and west by Warren, M'lJonou"h, and 
 Schuyler counties. It is in its greatest length 36 miles, and greatest breadth' 30 • 
 containing an area of 864 square miles. The streams which water it are the 
 Illinois and Spoon rivers, and Otter and Copperas creeks. About half of the 
 county is heavily timbered ; the residue is rich undulating prairie. This county 
 was laid off from Pike in 182.5, and contained in 183.5 a population of 5917 
 Lewistown, the seat of justice, is situated about six miles west of the Illinois river] 
 and tour miles north-east of Spoon river: it is surrounded with a heavy body of 
 timber, and contains a population of about 200. The other towns are Tuscumbia 
 Middletown, Utica, Liverpool, Ellisville, Bernadotte, Farminoton, and Canton' 
 the latter is a thriving town, and the largest in the county. Liverpool is a small 
 town recently laid out on the right bank of the Illinois, six miles above the mouth 
 of Spoon river, and about twelve from Canton, of which it is the landing-place and 
 wiH be the comm*^ncing point for the Liverpool, Canton, and Knoxvifle rail-road 
 
 l-armington is situated in the north-east corner of the county, 25 miles due we-t 
 from leoria: it was laid off in August 1835, and now contains between twenty 
 and thirty houses, besides four stores, one physician, and a number of mechanics. ! 
 
 GALLATIN County is situated in the south-western part of the state- its I 
 greatest length is about 37 miles, with a medium breadth of 25; and its area is I 
 /oO square miles. It is bounded north by White and Hamilton counties, south bv ' 
 Pope county, east by the states of Kentucky and Indiana, and west by Franklin 
 county. Situated as it is at the junction of the Wabash and Ohio rivers, its east- 
 ern boundary is washed by those streams. The interior is watered by Saline creek 
 and Its tributaries. 
 
 This county contains a large proportion of timbered land, which is particularly 
 valuable on account of its contiguity to the salt springs: these are situated on 
 Valine creek, about 20 miles above its junction with the Ohio river. The principal 
 spring was fornierly possessed by the Indians, who valued it highly, and called it 
 the Great Salt Spring; and it appears probable, from a variety of circumstances, 
 that they had been long acquainted with the method of making salt. Large frao-- 
 ments of earthen-ware are continually found near the works, both on and under 
 the surface of the earth. They have on them the impression of basket or wicker 
 work. Ihese salines now furnish large quantities of salt for home consumption 
 as well as tor exportation. ^ ' 
 
 In a treaty between the United States, and the Delaware, Shawanee, Pottawa- i 
 tomie. Lei Kiver, Weea, Kickapoo, and Piankasaw tribes, at Fort Wayne, on the 
 7th of June, 1803, this saline was ceded to the United States, with a quantity of 
 land, not exceeding four miles, surrounding it, in consideration of which, the United 
 States engaged to deliver annually to the said Indians, a quantity of salt not ex- 
 ceeding LjO bushels, to be divided among the several tribes in such a manner as 
 the general council of chiefs miy determine. For a number of years, it was pos- 
 sessed by the United States, with a reservation of 161 sections of land in the vicinitv 
 the whole of which were ceded in 1818 to the state of Illinois, by whom it was 
 leased to different individuals for about 10,000 dollars per annum The works are 
 situated on section 20, township 9, south range 8, east of the third principal me- 
 ridian. Saline creek is navigable to the works, and the surplus salt is thus shipped 
 to southern markets. ^^ 
 
 This part of Illinois is well adapted to the growth of stock: laro-e amounts of 
 liorses, beef, pork, cattle, lumber, and tobacco, are sent out of the county Gallatin 
 county was organized in 1812 : its population in 1835 amounted to 86^0 
 
 I he seat of justice for this county is Equality, a town with a population of four 
 or five hundred, on the east side of Saline creek. It is situated in the midst of 
 the salt manufactories, fourteen miles north-east from Shawneetown. The latter 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 is the principal commercial town in the southern part of the state. It is situated 
 on the west bank of the Ohio river, about ten miles below the mouth of the 
 Wabash. 
 
 GREENE County, on the Illinois river, is 41 miles in length, and 24 in breadth ; 
 area, about 9UJ square miles. It is bounded north by Morgan, south by Madison 
 and Calhoun counties and the state of Missouri, east by Macoupin, and west by 
 Calhoun and Pike counties, from which it is separated by the Illmois river. This 
 is one of the richest districts in the state. Fine water-courses, a fertile soil, and 
 contiguity to navigable streams, are some of the many advantages which it pos- 
 sesses. It contains a large proportion of timbered land, and is diversified with 
 gently undulating prairies, some of which are beautiful bej^ond description. The 
 banks of the Mississippi, in the southerly parts of the county, are generally com- 
 posed of perpendicular cliffs, varying in height from 80 to 100 feet, consisting of 
 horizonlal strata of lime and sandstone, frequently imbedded in coal. The latter 
 does not show itself at the face of the cliffs, but is ibund in great abundance a 
 short distance fro:n it. These cliffs commence at Alton, and extend along the 
 Mississippi and Illinois rivers to the northern part of the county; sometimes, hovv- 
 .ever, receding several miles east, leaving a low and fertile alluvion, which is usually 
 timbered on the banks of the river, and a prairie surface towards the bluffs. Greene 
 county was erected from Madison in 1821. The inhabitants in 1835 numbered i 
 12,274. 
 
 The Prairies in this county are generally very rich, fertile, and well settled : the 
 principal of them are String, Macoupin, and Lorton's Prairies. 
 
 String Prairie lies between Macoupin and Apple creeks, commencing four miles 
 west of CarroUton, and extending fifteen miles east, and from half a mile to three 
 miles in width. It is a rich, level tract, and most of it ina state of cultivation. 
 
 Macoupin Prairie, in the southern part of the county, between the Piasau and 
 Macoupin, is moderately undulating, rich, and rapidly settling. The road from 
 Alton to CarroUton passes through this prairie. 
 
 Towards the Illinois river on the west, and the Macoupin creek on the east, are 
 extensive bodies of fine timber. Emigrants from Vermont, and other northern and 
 eastern states, are covering over this part of the county with fine farms. The 
 settlement in the south part of this prairie is sometimes called South Greene. 
 
 Lorton's Prairie is on the north side of Apple creek, in the upper part of the 
 county. It is a tract of excellent land, has good timber, and contains about eighty 
 families. 
 
 Piper's Point settlement is 16 miles north-east from CarroUton, adjoining String 
 Prairie, and the timber of Apple creek. The land is tolerably level, rich, and pro- 
 portionably divided into timber and prairie. There are sixty or seventy families in 
 this settlement. 
 
 Blufidale is a flourishing settlement, ten miles west of CarroUton, and under the 
 bluffs that overhang the Illinois bottom. The land is rich, dry, and beautifully 
 situated for six miles in extent, under overhanging blufts and precipices from which 
 springs of " crystal waters" gush forth. The settlement is generally arranged 
 along the bluffs from Apple creek to the Macoupin, from three to four miles from 
 the Illinois river, and consists of fifty or sixty families. The settlement of Bluff- 
 dale has two stores, one grocery, one tavern, one minister of the gospel, and a 
 Baptist congregation, one post-office, one school, and various mechanics. 
 
 CarroUton, the seat of ju>tice, is situated nearly midway in the county. It is 85 
 miles from Alton, 108 north-west from Vandalia, and 887 from Washington City. 
 It is surrounded by rich and fertile districts of country, densely populated. The 
 other towns in the county are Whitehall, Albany, Newport, Bluffdale, Fayette, 
 Greenfield, Jerseyville, Camden, and Grafton. 
 
 HAMILTON County is bounded north by Wayne, south by Gallatin, east by 
 White, and west by Franklin and Jefferson counties. It is in length 24, and in 
 breadth 18 miles; area, 432 square miles. This county is watered by branches 
 of Saline creek and Little Wabash river, and contains about an equal proportion of 
 
80 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 prairie and timbered land ; the soil is mostly second and third rate. Hamilton 
 county was formed from White county in lb21, and contaiuod in 1835 a popula- 
 tion of 2877. 
 
 M'Leaiisiboro', the seat of justice, is a small villag'e of about 120 inhabitants, 
 situated on high ground, on the head waters of the north fork of Saline Creek. 
 
 HANCOCK County is bounded on the north by Warren county and the Mis- 
 sissippi river, soutli by Adams county, east by M'Donougli county, and west by the 
 Mississippi. It contains near 800 square miles. It was formed from Pike county 
 in 182.3, but was not orjranized as a county tor several years afterwards. In 1834, 
 Hancock only gave 357 votes, and had a population of 1785 inhabitants; now, its 
 population cannot be much short of 5000, and is steadily and rapidly increasing 
 with enterprising farmers and industrious mechanics. Carthage, the county seat, 
 was laid oil" about four years ago, on the borders of a large and beautiful prairie, 
 known as Hancock Prairie, and about half a mile from the timber, skirting one ol 
 the head branches of Crooked creek. The population of Carthage must be now 
 (July, 1837,) 3.)0 or 400, with 40 or 50 houses. Tliere are tour stores, two public 
 houses, one saddler, several carpenters, one or two shoemakers, two practising 
 pliysicians, three lawyers, one wheulright, two blaclismilhs, two or three cabinet- 
 makers, and three groceries. Tiiere are in Carthage a small socii-ty of Congre- 
 gationalists, and one of Methodists, and one of Baptists in the vicinity; and, wliat 
 IS perhnps worthy of remark, they all hold meetings in the same house. There is 
 a temperance society here, numbering tbrty or fifty members, and a female benev- 
 olent society, numbering ten or tiiteen. There is also a good school generally kept 
 here. 
 
 There are several other towns of some importance in Hancock county, among 
 which are the tbllowing: Warsaw, five miles below tlie toot of the rapids, on the 
 Mississippi, is thriving rapidly, and is destined to attain a high rank among the 
 towns of the west. The advantages of its situation are obvious, being opposite the 
 mouth of the Des Moines river, and the point of termination for the contemplated 
 rail-road connecting the Illinois with the Mississippi. It has a steam-mill, several 
 stores, and about 300 inhabitants. St. Mary's, Augusta, and La Harpe, are all 
 flourishing towns, and are situated in the midst of e.\celient neighbourhoods. The 
 other towns are, JVlontebello, Commerce, and Apanooce, all on the Mississippi river. 
 
 HENRY County has been laid off, and the boundaries specified; but, for judi- 
 cial purposes, it is attached to Kno.x county. It is bounded on the north by Rock 
 river and Whiteside county, south by Knox, east by Putnam, and west by Mercer 
 and Rock Island counties. It is thirty miles in extent from east to west, and the 
 same in breadth, except at the north-west corner, where it touches Rock river: 
 area, about 8,50 square miles. It is watered by Rock and Green rivers, and the 
 head branches of Edward's, Pope's and Spoon rivers. This county contains some 
 rich undulating prairies and groves, with a good deal of wet and swiim[)y land ; 
 but generally it is not equal in fertility of soil to those around it. The population 
 is small, amounting in 1835, only to 118 persons. 
 
 Andover, Lagrange, and Morristown, are small villages, recently settled. 
 
 IROQUOIS County is 42 miles long, and 34 broad, containing an area of 1428 
 square miles. It is bounded on the north by Will county, south by Vermillion, 
 east by the slate of Indiana, and west by the attached part of Vermillion county. 
 It is watered by the Iroquois river, and by Sugar and Spring creeks, and other tri- 
 butaries of that stream. The surface of this county is mostly prairie, some of it 
 very rich, with here and there sand ridges and plains. The timber is rather scanty, 
 and is found chiefly in groves, and in strips along the water-courses. There are 
 considerable settlements on the Iroquois river, and also along Sugar creek. The 
 county was laid oft* in 1833, and contained in 1835, 1164 inhabitants. 
 
 Its seat of justice is Montgomery, situated on the south bank of Iroquois river. 
 The other villages are Concord on the opposite side of the river, and Plato on the 
 left bank of the same stream, and about firleen miles nearly west from the former. 
 
SKETCfiES OF ILLINOIS. gl 
 
 Iroquois City has been lately laid off, near the centre of the county, and will pro- 
 bably become the seat of justice. 
 
 JACKSON County is in the southern part of the state, and is bounded on the 
 west by the Mississippi river and part of Randolph county, north by Perry and 
 Raridolpii, east by Franklin, and south by Union county. Its lenj^th from north to 
 south is 24 miles, and from east to west from 18 to 2H miles. The area is about 
 505 square miles. It is watered by tlie Big Muddy river and its tributaries. The 
 surface of the county is mostly timbered, although it contains many prairies. 
 Muddy river, whicli meanders through the interior of the county, is navigable for 
 a considerable di^stance, and affords to the inhabitants every facility lor exporting 
 their surplus produce. On this stieam there is a saline or salt spring, where con- 
 siderable quantities of salt are manufactured. A large body of e.vcellent coal ex- 
 ists about twenty-five miles up this stream. The bed is said to be inexhaustible, 
 and it is worked to some extent. This county was formed in 1816, and contained 
 in 1835 a population of 2783 inhabitants. • 
 
 Tlie Fountain Bluff, frequently called the " Big Hill," in the south-west corner 
 of the county, is a singularly formed eminence, or rocky bluff, on tlie river Missis- 
 sippi, eiglit miles above the mouth of tiie Big Muddy river. It is of an oval shape, 
 eight miles in circumference, and with an elevation of 300 feet. The western 
 side is on the river, and the top is broken, full of sink holes, with shrubs and scat- 
 tering timber. The north side is nearly perpendicular rock, but the south side is 
 sloping, and ends in a fine rich tract of soil, covered with farms. East is an exten- 
 sive and low bottom with lakes and swamps. Fine springs of limpid water gush 
 out from the foot of this bluff on all sides. 
 
 JVorth, and along the bank of the Mississippi, is dry and rich alluvion, with a 
 line of farms known by the name of the " Settlement under the Blufl'." 
 
 Brownsville, the seat of justice, is a small village, nearly in the centre of the 
 county, and on the north bank of the Big Muddy river. It is about twelve miles 
 by land, and twenty-five by water, to the Mississippi river. The population is 
 about 120 persons. 
 
 JASPER County is bounded north by Coles, sooth by Lawrence and Clay, east 
 by Crawford, and west by Effingham and clay counties. It is in extent from north 
 to south 22 miles, from east to west 2.'3, and contains an area of .506 square miles. 
 This county was formed in 1831, and in 1835 contained 415 inhabitants. It is 
 watered by the Embarras river and its tributaries, and also the streams flowing into 
 the Little VV'abash. It contains some fertile tracts, but much of both tiie prairie 
 and timber land is level, wet, and of an inferior quality. 
 
 Newton, the seat of justice, is a small place, on the right bank of the Embarras 
 river. 
 
 JEFFERSON County is situated centrally between the Mississippi and Wa- 
 bash rivers. It was organized in 1819, and forms a square of 24 miles, with an 
 area of 576 square miles. It is bounded on the north by Marion, south by Frank- 
 lin, east by Wayne and Hamilton, and west by Perry and Washington counties. 
 It is watered chiefly by the branches of the Big Muddy river, and also by streams 
 flowing into the Skillet fork of Little Wabash river. The surface of the country 
 is about one-third prairie; the remainder, timber. The soil is tolerable second- 
 rate land. It was organized in 1819, from Edwards and White counties. The 
 inhabitants in IS'io amounted to 33.50. 
 
 There are several compact settlements in difl^erent parts of the county: the 
 principal are, Moore's, Gun, Long, and Jordan's Prairie Settlements. 
 
 Moore's Prairie Settlement is from six to twelve miles south-east of Mount Ver- 
 non. It consists of about 75 families. The prairie is eight miles long, and from 
 two to three miles wide. Some portions of it are flat and wet, and other parts 
 dry and undulating. 
 
 Gun Prairie is six miles south of Mount Vernon. It is two miles long, and one 
 wide. The land is good, and the settlement contains twenty families. 
 
82 SKETCIIKS OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 Long Prairie is five miles west of Mount Vernon. It lies between the Middle 
 and West forks of Bij^ Muddy river, is toionibly fertile, and is four miles long and 
 one mile and a liiilf wide. Tiio setlleirn.'nt coiitiiins forty fiiiiiilies. 
 
 Jordan's I'riiirie, six miles north of Mount Vernon, is five miles long-, and one 
 mile and a half wide. The land is second-rate, and the settlement contains lifly 
 families. 
 
 .Mount Vernon, the seat of justice, is near the centre of the county, on a branch 
 of the Bi^r Muddy river. It is pleasantly situated, on the north side of Carey's 
 I'rairie, and sunnunded with a considerable settlement. The population is about 
 U)U. It has six stores, three groceries, one tavern, two physicians, two ministers, 
 a court-house and jail, a Methodist Episcopal and a Baptiiit society, besides various 
 mechanical establishments. 
 
 JO DAVIESS County occnpies the north-west corner of the state, and includes 
 the best settled part of tiie lead-mine region within the limits of Illinois. It is 
 bounded on the north by Wisconsin Territory, south by Whiteside county, east by 
 the counties of Stephenson and Ogle, and west by Wisconsin Territory, from 
 which it is sejjarated. iiy the lVIissiHsipi)i river. It com|)rised until lately all the 
 country lying nortli-W(!bt of Rock river, i)ut iias been divided into several counties. 
 It now extends from east to west Irom !34 to I.'j miles, and from north to south JiO, 
 containing an area of about *X){) sfpiare miles. Besides the Mississippi, it is 
 watered by the I'ekatoiiica, Fever, and Apple rivers, and Rush and Plum creeks, 
 on which there are many good mill-sites. This is a rich county, both for agricul- 
 tural and mining purposes. The surface is mostly undulating prairie, and occa- 
 sionally hilly. Timber is scarce. Lead and copper are (bund in abundance, of 
 which the iirst forms the chief staple and article of ex])()rt. Jo Daviess county 
 was laid off' in 1827, and contained in 183.'), 4(K38 inhabitants. 
 
 About twelve miles east of GiiliMin, the surrounding country rises to the height 
 of seven or eight hundred f(;et above the general level of the mining district. 
 From the centre of this elevation, Moimt St. (^Iiarles shoots up like a pyramid, 1.^)0 
 foot hijrli. The bai^e of the whole mount includes two or three sfjuare miles; the 
 base of the pyramid is one-t()urth of a mile in length, and 250 yards in breadth. 
 Its top is long and ([uite narrow. The whole mound, as is the case with many 
 smaller ones, is a iiiilural formation. 
 
 Galena, the seat of justice of the county, is on the right bank of Fever river, a 
 few miles from tiie Mississippi, and is the most important town in the lead-mine 
 district. 
 
 The other towns are, (jlratiot's Crove, about I.'j miles north-east from Galena; 
 Wapeto, at the falls of Apple river; and Savannah, on the east bank of the Mis- 
 sissippi river, at the moulli of Plum creek. 
 
 JOHNSON County is situated in the southern part of the state, and is bounded 
 north by Franklin, south by the Ohio river, east by Pope, and west by Union and 
 Alexander counties. It is from IJI to 2."> miles in hniffth, and in breadth 18, with 
 an area of about 48() scinare miles. The interior of the county is watered by the 
 heads of Cash river and Big Bay creek. The south(!rn boundary is washed by the 
 Ohio, the banks of which are generally fertile. Occasionully they consist of ledges 
 of perpendicular rocks, which, by extending across the river, form what is called 
 the Little and (Jrand Chain, so much dreaded by those who navigate this river. 
 Near these, however, are pilots who are acquainted with the channel, and who 
 generally conduct the boats through in safety. This county has a large proportion 
 of level land, which is generally well wooded and inclining to a sandy soil. Some 
 portions of it are but thinly populated, ovvin^jf in some; measure, no doubt, to the uii- 
 iiealthiness occasioned by the overflowing of the Ohio, and the marshes which ex- 
 ist near the southern bomuhiry. Johnson county was organized in 1812, and in 
 1835 contained 21(i(i inhabitants. On the dividing line between this and the ad- 
 joining county of Pope, and on the Icll bank of the Ohio river, about ten miles 
 below the mouth of the Tennessee river, stood Fort Massac, a military post of some 
 importance in the earlier setth-mient of the country. A fort was erected here i)y 
 
SKET(;HfJ.S OF ILLINOIS. Kt 
 
 the French when in possession of the western country. The Indians, tfion at, war 
 with them, laid a curious strata'^rorn to take it. A nurnhor of them apponrcd in tlie 
 day-time on thr; ojjpositf; side of the river, each of whom Wfis cov<;red witii a hear- 
 skin and walked on all fours. iSupponing tliem to he bears, a party of the l'Vc;nch 
 crossed the river in pursuit of them. The remainder of the troops h;fl their 
 quarters to see the sport. In the meantime a larj^e body of warriors, who were 
 concealed in the woods near hy, came silently behind the fort, entered it without 
 opposition, and very few of the French escaped the massacre. They a(tf;rwards 
 built another fort on the same (,'round, and called it Massac, in memory of this dis- 
 astrous event. In 17o() th».-y abandoned the position. After the revolutionary war 
 the Americans repaired or rebuilt it, and kept a garrison here for several years. 
 The buililinj^s are now destroyed. 
 
 There are, in different parts of the county, compact setflemcntj?, chiefly ngricul- 
 tural : these are named, Brid^^e's, Elvira, M'Fatridf^'e's, and Buncombe Settleirienfji. 
 
 Brid/re's Settlement is about ten miles west of Vienna : it contains some tolera- 
 bly (jood land. I'o])ulatior), about 00 families. 
 
 Elvira Settlement is on Lick creek, a branch of Cash river. It is about If) miles 
 north-west from Vienna, and contains 130 or 40 families. 1'he land is rich and 
 level. 
 
 M'Fatridf,'e's Settlement is about 8 miles north-east from Vienna, on the old roaf] 
 from G(jlconda to Kaskaskia, and on the waters of Cedar creek. The surface is 
 rather broken, and the soil thin. The settlement contains 5(J or 00 fiimilies. 
 
 Buncombe Settlement is about ei;^ht miles north-\v<!st from Vienna: it contains 
 40 families. The soil is rather thin, broken, and rocky. 
 
 Vienna, the seat of justice, is a small village, situated about I'.i miles north of 
 the Ohio river, on the east fork of Cash river, and in the main road from Coleonda 
 to Jonesborough and Jackson, Missouri. It contains from ViO to 100 inhabiUints. 
 
 KANE County is situated in the northern part of the state, and is bounded north 
 by Boone and M'llenry, south by La Salle, ea.st by Cook, and west by Oj^le county. 
 It was firmed in IH'id, and is estimated U) contain a population of 1.^)00, although 
 no part of it is yet surveyed, and consequently has not bee-n sold hy the govern- 
 ment. It contains an area of 1200 square miles, and is '.id miles in eAtent from 
 north to south, and the same from east to west. Fox river extends thnjugh its 
 eastern division, in a direction nearly w>uth-west : the other streams are Mill, 
 Blackberry, Rock, Somonauk, and Indian creeks, entering Fox river on the right- 
 hand »ide; and Walxjnsio and Morgan creeks on the opposite banks: on its west- 
 ern and norlh-western portion, it receives several smaller streams, and the south 
 main branches of the Kishvvaukee or Sycamore creek that enters Rock river. 
 These are all good mill-streams, and already .saw and flouring mills are built or in 
 progress. The banks are usually skirted with pleasant groves of timber, occasion- 
 ally interspersed with barrens only. There are for the most part contiguous set- 
 tlements on all these streams ; and in some places they are quite compact and 
 pleasant. 
 
 A large proportion of the county is rich prairie, with some deficiency in the 
 amount of timber, which is found mostly in groves: — the largest of these is the 
 Big VVfXids. They lie on the east side, and adjoining Fox rivf.-r, and are about 10 
 miles in length, and from two t^; four miles v/ide, containing about '10 sections of 
 good timbered land. This tract (provided the surveys were run) would li(; mo.stly 
 in township '.U) and .'W north, range 8 east from the third principal meridian. Its 
 timber consists chiefly of white, black, yellow, and burr oaks, sugar maple, lynn or 
 bass wovl, black and white walnut or butternut, hickory, ash of various species, 
 poplar, iron-wood, &.c. The soil is generally a dark sandy loam, wimetimes clay; 
 generally a little undulating, but sometimes quite level. — The " Bif( Wow/«" is 
 thickly settled on all sides, and the Four-mile Prairie, between that and Du Page 
 river, is all claimed and considerably settled, as is the country op[)Osite, betwixt 
 Fox river and Blackberry creek, west. 
 
 The " LUtlfi VVofidH" is a tract of timber, about four miles north of Big W^orxls, 
 also, on the east ^ide and adjoining Fox river, divided from Big Woods by u gap 
 
84 SKETCHES Of^ ILLINOIS. 
 
 of prairie, interspersed in places with little groves of small timber and barrens. 
 It is about half the size of the latter; its timber and soil, similar; and is surrounded 
 with compact settlements. 
 
 The wliole raugc of Fo.x river in this county is thickly settled : towns and vil- 
 lages are springing up as if by magic, Conmiencing at the south end of Kane 
 county, a few miles above the boundary, is the new village of Yorkville. The 
 Fox river there, is to be dammed, and a saw and grist mill already contracted to be 
 built. Opposite the Big Woods, dams are thrown across Fox river in five places, 
 and saw-mills erected. At the prairie in the " Woods," three miles above the 
 "Foot," at the Galena stage ford, is the pleasant village of Aurora. A flouring 
 mill is here in operation. Lowell, at the "Head" of Big Woods, and Charleston, 
 at the "Foot" of Little Woods, are growing business places; have saw-mills on 
 Fox river, and flouring-mills going up at the present season. Geneva, on the west 
 bank of Fox river, and nearly equi-distant from Lowell and Charleston, is a plea- 
 sant place, and the county seat of this county. At the " Head" of Little Woods, 
 and five miles farther up, is the new village of Elgin. Here is a dam, and mills 
 are building. Eiglit miles further, is a liouring-mill, nearly ready to run. On the 
 whole. Fox river is one of the best, if not the best stream in the state tor extensive 
 hydraulic operations. It can easily be rendered navigable by slack-water, abounds 
 with excellent quarries of limestone for building purposes, and beds of coal have 
 already been discovered some miles above its mouth. The first white man's cabin 
 erected in this county, was built in the vicinity of Big Woods, on Fox rivor, but 
 three years ago last fall ; and the principal settlements and improvements have 
 been made within the last two years, and by a population from most of the states 
 in the union. The predominant character, liowever, is eastern. As in the coun- 
 tries from whence they have emigrated, there is a diversity of religious sentiment. 
 The Baptist, Presbyterian, and Methodist, are the most prevailing denominations; 
 probably the former and latter are the most numerous, 
 
 KNOX County is in the Military Bounty Tract, and nearly central between 
 the Mississippi and Illinois rivers. It is bounded north by Henry, east by Peoria 
 and Putnam, south by Fulton, and west by Warren and Mercer counties. It is 
 thirty miles long, and from thirty to thirty-four m breadth, containing 792 square 
 miles. This county is watered by Spoon river and its tributaries, and also by the 
 head streams of Henderson's and Pope's rivers. The surface is generally prairie, 
 moderately undulating, and of first-rate quality of soil, with considerable tracts of 
 excellent timber along the water-courses. The inhabitants amounted in 1835 to 
 1600. 
 
 The seat of justice, Knoxville, is pleasantly situated at the head of Haw creek, 
 a tributary of Spoon river, on a rich and elevated prairie. It was laid off a few 
 years ago: it contains about 200 inhabitants, and bids fair to become a thriving 
 inland town. The surrounding district is rich, and settlmg fast with industrious 
 farmers. Hcndersonville and Galesboro' are small villages, a few miles from 
 Knoxville. 
 
 LA SALLE County comprises a fine tract of country, 48 miles in length, and 
 from 48 to 36 in breadth, containing an area of 1872 square miles. It is bounded 
 north by Kane and Ogle, south by M'Lean and the attached part of Vermillion, 
 east by Will, and west by Putnam county. It is watered by the Illinois river and 
 its tributaries, the Big and Little Vermillion, and Fox and Au Sable rivers ; also 
 by Mason, Indian, and Rock creeks. These streams run generally on a bed of 
 sand or limestone rock, and have but little alluvial bottom lands. 
 
 La Salle, like most of the counties in the northern part of the state, is deficient 
 in timber, but contains abundance of rich undulating, dry prairie, fine mill-streams, 
 and extensive coal-beds, and must eventually become a rich cou/itry. Its situation 
 will enable tlie people to send off their produce either by the Illinois river to a 
 southern market, or by the lakes to the Atlantic section of the union. This county 
 was organized in 1831, and in 183.5 contained a population of 4754. 
 
 The Starved Rock, or Rock Fort, near the foot of the rapids, and on the right 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 85 I 
 
 bank of the Illinois river, is a perpendicular mass of lime and sandstone, washed 
 by the current at its base, and elevated 150 feet Ita perpendicular sides, arisinjf 
 from the river, are inaccessible. It is connected with a chain of heights that ex- 
 tend up the stream, by a narrow ledge, the only ascent to which is by a winding 
 and precipitous path. The diameter of the top of the rock is about l(iO feet: it is 
 covered with a soil of some depth, which has proiluced a growth of young trees. 
 The advantages which it affords as an impregnable retreat, induced a band of Illi- 
 nois Indians, who sought a refuge from the fury of the Potawatornies, with whom 
 they were at war, to intrench themselves here. They repulsed all the assaults of 
 their besiegers, and would have remained masters of their high ttjwer, but for the 
 impossibility of obtaining supplies of water. They had secured provisions, but their 
 only resource for the former was by letting down vessels with bark ropes to the river. 
 Their enemies stationed themselves in canoes at the base of the clifls, and cut off 
 the ropes as fast as they wer.e let down. The consequence of this was the entire 
 extirpation of the band : many years afterwards, their bones were whitening on the 
 summit An intrenchment, corresponding to the edge of the precipice, is di-stinctly 
 visible; and fragments of antique p<jltery, and other curious remains of the vanished 
 race,are strewn around. From this elevated point, the Illinois may be traced as it 
 winds through deep and solitary forests or outspread plains, onward to the Missis- 
 sippi, until It disappears from the vision in the distance. In the opposite direction, a 
 prairie stretches out and blends with the horizon. 
 
 On Indian creek, in the northern part of the county, a most horrible tragedy was 
 enacted at the commencement of the Indian war of 1S'S2. On the 2<)th of May 
 of that year, fifteen persons belonging to the families of Messrs. Hall, Daviess, and 
 Pettigrew, were barbarously massacred by the Indians. Two young ladies. Misses 
 Halls, were taken prisoners, and afterwards redeemed, and two young lads made 
 their escape. The bodies of men, women, and children, were shockingly mutilated, 
 the houses of the settlers burned, their furniture destroyed, and their cattle killed 
 — all in daylight and within twenty miles of a large force of the militia. This 
 was done by the Indians under the infamous Black Hawk. A portion of that band 
 were exterminated during the same season by the combined forces of United States 
 troops and Illinois militia, and the remainder dispersed over the prairies west of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 The seat of justice of La Salle county is Ottawa, at the junction of the Illinois 
 and Fox rivers. This is considered a very eligible site for a commercial town. 
 The canal now in progress of construction from lake Michigan to the Illinois river 
 will pass through it, and a<ld greatly to its prosperity. The other towns are Dres- 
 den and Kankakee, both at the junction of the Des Plaines and Kankakee rivers; 
 Marseilles and Mechanicsville above, and Utica, Rockwell, Peru, and Enterprize, 
 below, Ottawa: these are all on the Illinois. There are also Lowell on the Ver- 
 million river, and Vermillionville, about a mile ea.st of the same stream. Of these 
 towns, Peru, on the north bank of the Illinois, and at the western termination of 
 the Michigan and Illinois canal, bids fair to become of importance. Steamboats 
 can reach it at all stages of the river ; and on the completion of the canal, an ea.sy 
 and safe transmission to and from this place may be haii at all times, except when 
 the waters are bound with ice. ' 
 
 Marseilles is a post town on the north side of the Illinois river: at the Grand 
 river, eight miles above Ottawa, a chartered company is engaged in constructing 
 dams, mills, Aa;. Flour and lumber are made here, and the water-power is immense 
 and easily commanded. The Illinois and Michigan canal will paiss through it, and 
 it already assumes the aspect of a bustling, enterprizing village. 
 
 LAWRENCE County, erected in 1821 from a part of Edwards and Crawford, 
 is situated in the eastern part of the state, and adjoining Indiana, from which it is 
 separated by the Wabash river. It has on the north Crawford and Jasper, on the 
 Sfjuth Wabash and Edwards counties, on the cast the Wabash river, and on the 
 west Clay county. From east to west its greatest extent is .31, and from north to 
 south 19 miles; containing an area of abfjut .560 square miles. This county is 
 watered by the Embarras river and its tributaries, as well as by the head waters 
 
86 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 on the Bon Pas, and the Fox river of the Little Wabash. The banks of all these 
 streams are low and subject to inundations. This is the case particularly with re- 
 spect to tlie Embarras and the branches of the Little Wabash. It not unfrequently 
 occurs, that the bottoms of those streams, which are more than two miles in width, 
 are covered with from four to eight feet of water, so as to render them entirely 
 impassable; of course, travelling during these seasons is rendered difficult and un- 
 pleasant. In the low prairies near the Wabash, there are quagmires, called by the 
 common people purgatory swamps, or deviCs holes ; the surface of these appears 
 dry and level, but it generally rests on quicksands. Over some of these, bridges 
 and levees are now constructed. In a dry season, the water evaporates, and the 
 ground becomes firm. A great proportion of the land in the interior, and at a short 
 distance from the stream, is prairie, most of which is fertile. The inhabitants of 
 this county, in 1835, amounted to 44.50. 
 
 La-wrenceville, the county seat, is situated on the west bank of the Embarras 
 river, about ten miles west of Vincennes, on the direct road to Vandalia, from 
 which place it is distant eighty-four miles. It is on an elevated ridge, in the cen- 
 tre of a fertile and well-settled country, and contains three stores, two groceries, 
 two taverns, and sixty or seventy families ; the court-house is of brick, and is a 
 respectable building. A saw and grist mill is in operation on the Embarras, ad- 
 joining the town. Lawrenceville exports annually to the value of about 50,000 
 dollars, and imports 30,000 dollars. 
 
 The other towns in the countyareStringtown,ontheEmbarras river, above Law- 
 renceville ; Russellville, on the VV^abash, in the north-east corner of the county ; 
 and Smallsburg, a few miles below Lawrenceville, on the Embarras. There are 
 several populous settlements in different parts of the county ; such as, Allison's 
 Prairie, French, Lukens' Prairie, and River Precinct settlements. 
 
 Allison's Prairie, five miles north-east from Lawrenceville, is ten miles long, 
 and five broad. The eastern part, towards the Wabash, contains some wet land 
 and purgatory swamps, but the principal part is a drj', sandy, and very rich soil, 
 covered with well-cultivated farms. Few tracts in Illinois are better adapted for 
 the culture of corn than this. The population is about 200 families. This prairie 
 was settled in 1816 and 1817, by emigrants from Ohio and Kentucky, and mostly 
 of the religious sect known in the west by the name of Christians ; and the settle- 
 ment is sometimes called by that name. In a few years, death had thinned their 
 numbers. The purgatory swamps, as they are called, around the prairie, had a 
 deleterious influence, and retarded the progress of population. In later years, but 
 little sickness has existed; and this settlement furnishes one of many evidences 
 that upon the subjugation of the luxuriant vegetation with which our rich prairies 
 are clothed, and the cultivation of the soil, sickly places will be changed to healthy 
 ones. 
 
 French settlement, in the south-east part of the county, is ten miles from Law- 
 renceville. It is a timbered tract, and rather broken. Of the population, which 
 consists of about sixty families, one-half are French. 
 
 The Indian Creek settlement is on Indian creek, a branch of the Embarras river, 
 which rises in the prairies west, runs south-east, and enters that stream five miles 
 below Lawrenceville. It has much good land in its vicinity, both timber and 
 prairie, and a population of one hundred and fifty families. 
 
 Lukens' Prairie Settlement is in the south-western part of the county, from 
 twenty to twenty-five miles from Lawrenceville. It has a population of from sev- 
 enty to eighty families. 
 
 The River Precinct Settlement extends along the Wabash river, opposite Vin- 
 cennes. It is on a rich bottom heavily timbered, and contains sixty or seventy 
 families. 
 
 LIVINGSTON County was formed in 1837 from La Salle, IM'Lean, and part 
 of the attached portion of Vermillion county. It is in extent from east to west 
 from 30 to 36 miles, and from north to south 30, and contains an area of 11.52 
 square miles. It is watered by the Vermillion river of the Illinois, and its tribu- 
 taries, which flow through the northern half of the county from south-east to north- j 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 67 
 
 west This is a fine mill-stream of about 50 yards wide, and runs through exten- 
 sive beds of bituminous coal. Its bluffs contain immense quarries of lime, sand, 
 and some ii-eestone excellent for grindstones. The other streams are, the Mack- 
 inaw and its branches, and some of the tributaries of Mason's creek. This county 
 j contains a large quantity of rich undulating prairie, and some fine tracts of valua- 
 ble timber land, mostly oaks of various kinds, wahiut, ash, sugar-maple, hickory, &c. 
 The principal minerals are limestone and coal. 
 
 Its seat of justice is not yet laid off. The only towns in the county are Webster 
 and Lexington : the former has been recently located in the north-west part of the 
 county, about two miles south-west from Vermillion river. Lexington is situated 
 about 18 miles north-east from Bloomington, on the road to Chicago. 
 The population of Livingston county is estimated at from 700 to 600. 
 
 MACON County is bounded north by M'Lean, south by Shelby, east by Cham- 
 paign and Coles, and west by Sangamon county. It extends from north to south 
 39 miles, and from east to west 30, forming an area of 1404 square miles. It is 
 watered by the north fork of Sangamon river and its tributaries ; also, by some of 
 I the head branches of Kaskaskia river, and by Salt creek. This countv is mostly 
 covered with prairies, some of which are extensive, and in the interior level and 
 wet, but generally dry, rich, and undulating, near the timber. Macon county was 
 formed from the attached part of Shelby in 1B29, and in 183o contained a popula- 
 tion of 3022 inhabitants. 
 
 Decatur, the seat of justice, i%situated on the right bank of the North Fork of 
 Sangamon river, and on the borders of an extensive, dry, and elevated prairie, 
 about 70 miles north from Vandalia, and 770 from Washington City. 
 
 Clinton, 24 miles north of Decatur, and about half-way between that place and 
 Bloomington, is a thriving town, and beautifully situated on the prairie, which over- 
 looks a large district of country. The Salt creek timber approaches near the town 
 on the south, from which it diverges in a north-eastern direction till it passes be- 
 yond tlie reach of vision. Botli sides of the creek are well settled. The timber 
 is excellent and sufficient, and the prairies beautifully rolling. The country adja- 
 cent will, of course, admit of dense settlement Clinton is on the line of the 
 Central rail-road, and probably in a short time it will become a county seat for a 
 new county, comprising parts of the present counties of Macon and M'Lean. The 
 convenience of the inhabitants of the country adjacent would seem to call, at a 
 proper time, for such an arrangement. Of such importance has this town site been 
 considered, that speculators from a distance have entered all the land in its neigh- 
 bourhood. Clinton is among the few new towns which have started up in this 
 town-speculating age, that will grow into importance. The site of the town, the 
 heavy settlements around it, the beautiful, fertile, and healthy country adjacent, all 
 seem to unite in demonstrating this truth. 
 
 Franklin, on Salt creek, about 20 miles in a north-north-west direction, and 
 Murfreesborough, on the Sangamon river, 16 miles north-east from Decatur, are 
 small towns, lately settled. Okau Settlement, in the south-eastern part of tht 
 county, 20 miles from Decatur, lies on the West Fork of the Kaskaskia, and con- 
 tains 20 or 30 families. Salt creek Settlement, 20 miles north from Decatur, con- 
 sists of about 100 families. The land is good, with plenty of prairie. 
 
 MADISON County is situated in the western part of the state, and opposite 
 the mouth of the Missouri river. It was organized in 1812, and at first was much 
 more extensive than at present It is bounded north by Greene, Macoupin, and 
 Montgomery counties ; south by St. Clair, east by Bond and Clinton, and west by 
 the Mississippi river, which separates it from the state of Missouri It extends in 
 an east and west direction from 36 to 30 miles, and from north to south 24 ; area, 
 about 760 square miles. This county, both on account of its soil and situation, pos- 
 sesses great advantages. Part of it lies in the American Bottom, which is a low 
 alluvion of great fertility, but subject to inundation. It extends from the mouth 
 of the Kaskaskia river to Alton, a few miles above the mouth of the Mississippi : 
 above this, the bank is high, watered by fine springs, and contains building stone, 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 and coal of the best quality. The interior of the county is generally elevated and 
 undulating, though not hilly. On the banks of the Mississippi, below Alton, it is 
 low and wet, and in many places very marshy. No soil, however, can exceed it 
 in fertility. Upon ascending the bluff which bounds this bottom upon the east, 
 there is a district of country which continues eastward to the Kaskaskia river, and 
 is called the Table-Land. This is also very fertile, and is considered one of the 
 most desirable tracts in the state. The banks of the streams which run through 
 the interior of this county are generally well wooded, leaving between them prai- 
 ries of considerable size, though very fertile, and very advantageously situated for 
 settlement Wheat, corn, beef, pork, horses, cattle, and almost every production 
 of Illinois, are raised in this county, and find a ready market Madison county, in 
 1835, contained 9016 inhabitants. 
 
 Monk Hill, situated on the American Bottom, is eight miles north-easterly from 
 St Louis. The circumference at the base is about 600 yards, and its height about 
 90 feet On the south side, about half-way down, is a broad step, or apron, about 
 1.5 feet wide. This hill, or mount, was the residence, for several years, of the 
 monks of the order of La Trappe, the most rigid and austere of all the monkish 
 orders. Their monastery was originally situated in the district of Perche, in 
 France, in one of the most lonely spots that could be chosen. They fled from the 
 commotions of that kingdom to America, lived for a time in Kentucky, and came 
 to Illinois in 1806 or 1807, and settled on this mound. They cultivated a garden, 
 repaired watches, and traded with the people, but were generally filthy in their 
 habits, and extremely severe in their penances ^d discipline. In 1813, they sold 
 off their personal property, and left the country for France. 
 
 Ridge Prairie commences near Edwardsville, and extends south to St Clair 
 county. It is on the dividing ridge, between the waters that fall into the Missis- 
 sippi west, and those that flow to the Kaskaskia east Originally this prairie 
 extended into St Clair county as far south as Belleville ; but long since, where 
 farms have not been made, it has been intersected by a luxuriant growth of timber. 
 Its surface is gently undulating, the soil rich, and is surrounded and indented with 
 many fine farms. 
 
 Marine Settlement, between the east and west forks of Silver Creek, and 12 
 miles east of Edwardsville, was commenced in 1819. The settlement is large, and 
 spread over an undulating, rich, and beautiful prairie, and is healthful and well 
 watered. 
 
 Paddock's Settlement is on the Springfield road, seven miles north of Edwards- 
 ville. The prairie is undulating, fertile, and healthy. 
 
 Edwardsville is the seat of justice of this county, and is situated in the centre 
 of a fertile, well watered, and well timbered district, settled with enterprizing 
 farmers. It is 21 miles north-east from St Louis, and 12 miles south-east from 
 Alton. 
 
 The other towns are, Alton, Upper Alton, Collinsville, Troy, Chippewa, Clifton, 
 and Randolph. The latter is situated at the mouth of the Piasau, on the Missis- 
 sippi, about equal distance between Alton and Grafton. It is laid out above the 
 Piasau, and betwixt that stream and the Mississippi, on table-land, above the 
 highest floods. Abundance of limestone and good timber, water privileges and 
 never-failing springs, a good landing for steamboats, and other advantages, are 
 found here. Lots to the value of $20,000 have been sold this spring, and buildings 
 are in process of erection, especially a large hotel. 
 
 Clifton is on the bank of the Mississippi, four miles above Alton, and has been 
 recently laid out. Collinsville is situated in the south part of the county. It con- 
 tains a store, a large mill for sawing and grinding, and several mechanics. A 
 meeting-house, and Presbyterian church of fifty members, a large Sabbath-school, 
 and a body of sober, moral, and industrious citizens, render this an interesting set- 
 tlement Chippewa is directly opposite the mouth of the Missouri, two miles below 
 Alton, and has been but lately laid out A steam-mill, and several other buildings, 
 are now erecting. 
 
 MACOUPIN County is bounded on the north by Sangamon and Morgan, south 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. S9 
 
 by Madison, east by Montg'omery, and west by Greene. It is 36 miles in length, ; 
 and 24 in breadth ; area, 864 square miles. The county is watered by Macoupin | 
 creek and its branches, as well as by the head-waters of Apple, Cahohok, Silver, [ 
 and Piasau creeks, and Wood river. This is a fine agricultural country, settled 
 by enterprizing and industrious farmers. The surface consists mostly of prairies, 
 slightly undulating, of which the chief part is of an excellent soil, and contains a 
 due proportion of timber, mostly along the water-courses. Macoupin county was 
 organized from the attached portion of Greene county in 1829, and in 1S35 con- 
 tamed a population of 55.>l persons. 
 
 Carlinville, the seat of justice, is pleasantly situated in a handsome prairie, about 
 two miles north-west from ^lacoupin creek : it is 35 miles north-east from Alton, 
 and 55 miles north-west from Vandalia ; containing about 3-50 inhabitants, with 
 several stores, one grocery, two lawyers, and two physicians. The other towns 
 are small, and but recently settled : they are, Girard, Staunton, Woodburn, and 
 Brooklyn, 
 
 MARIOX County vras formed from Jefferson and Fayette counties, in 1823: 
 it is 24 miles square, and contains an area of 576 square miles: it is situated about 
 midway between the Mississippi and Wabash rivers, and is bounded north by Fay- 
 ette and Clay counties, south by Jefferson, east by Clay and Wayne, and west bv 
 Clinton and Fayette. Marion county is watered by the East Fork of Kaskaskia 
 river and Crooked creek, also by the Skillet Fork of the Little Wabash and its 
 tributaries. It embraces the southern part of the Grand Prairie, which constitutes 
 about two-thirds of its surface : the remainder is timber, much of which is post 
 oak. The soil is for tlie most part of second-rate quality, the surface slightly un- 
 dulating, with some of the prairies level, and inclining to the west. 
 
 Walnut Hill Settlement is in the south-west part of the county, from 12 to 14 
 miles distant from Salem. It is on the Walnut Hill Prairie, and contains a popu- 
 lation of about 75 families. Some parts of the prairie are tolerably good ; others, 
 rather flat and wet. It is about four miles long, and three broad. The population 
 in 1835 amounted to 2S44. 
 
 Salem, the seat of justice, is situated on the eastern border of the Grand Prairie, 
 on the Vincennes and St, Ix)uis stage-road : it is a pleasant village, of about 160 
 inhabitants. 
 
 MDOSOl'GH County is situated in the Military Bounty Tract, and at nearly 
 an equal distance from the Mississippi and Illinois rivers : it forms a square territory 
 of 24 miles each way, containing an area of .576 square miles. It is bounded on 
 the north by Warren county, south by Schuyler, east by Fulton, and west by Han- 
 cock. The streams which water this county are Crooked creek and its branches. 
 Drowning Fork, Troublesome creek, Turkey creek, and others : most of these 
 have good mill-seats for a portion of the year. The soil is chiefly a rich and fertile 
 prairie, not excelled by any in this region. About one half of the eastern and 
 northern part of the county is prairie ; the remainder is suitably proportioned into 
 timber and prairie. M'Bonough county was laid off from Pike in 1825, but was 
 not organized till 1'829 : in 183-5, it contained 2888 inhabitants. 
 
 Macomb, the seat of justice, is pleasantly situated in a fertile prairie in the cen- 
 tre of the county, about two miles south of the Drowning Fork of Crooked creek. 
 It contains a population of about 100 persons, and has three stores, and one srocer}'. 
 
 Carter's Settlement is near the south part of the county, 12 miles from Macomb, 
 on the road to Rushville. The land is gently undulating, soil rich, timber and prai- 
 rie proportioned, and an extensive settlement It is in the south part of four north, 
 two west, between the heads of Su?ar creek and Grindstone forL This is the 
 oldest settlement in the county, Edmonson's Prairie, six miles south-west from 
 Macomb, is from one to two miles wide, ten miles long, and contains 25 or 30 
 families. 
 
 M'HEyRY County occupies the north-eastern comer of the state, and is 
 bounded on the north by Walworth and Racine counties of Wisconsin Territory, 
 
 M~ ~" 8* 
 
90 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 south by Cook and Kane counties, east by lake Michijjan, and west by Boone coun- 
 ty. It contains an area of about 1 100 square miles, and is in extent from east to 
 west from 47 to 42 miles, and from north to south 24. It is watered by the Fox, 
 Des Planes, and Chicago rivers and their branches, together with several small 
 lakes, of which some have limpid waters m gravelly beds, with ridges of gravel 
 and sand around them. Groves of fine timber are found along the lake shores and 
 on the banks of the streams, and also distributed through the prairies. The county 
 is well watered, the streams perennial, and the soil rich and covered with luxuri- 
 ant herbage. The county is filling up rapidly with an enterprizing population, now 
 estimated at from 1000 to 1200 souls. The seat of justice is not yet located. Tlie 
 only town in the county is M'Henry, situated on the west side of Fox river, and 
 about 12 miles south of the northern boundary of the state. It is surrounded with 
 excellent prairie and timber in groves, and oak openings or barrens. 
 
 ^TLEAN County was organized in 1830, and was until lately one of the larg- 
 est counties in the state. It is in extent from north to south from 48 to 24 miles, 
 and from east to west from 12 to 42, having an area of 1296 square miles. It is 
 bounded on the north by La Salle and Livingston counties, south by Macon and 
 Sangamon, east by Champaign and tiie attached part of Vermillion, and west by 
 Tazewell. The streams which flow through this county are the western branch 
 of the north fork of Sangamon river, and the head-waters of Mackinaw, Sugar, 
 Kickapoo, and Salt creeks ; these all take their rise in the county, and furnish, 
 when the waters are not too low, good mill-seats. A considerable portion of the 
 eastern and northern part of the county is one vast prairie, with tlie surface ele- 
 vated, moderately undulating, and the soil dry and fertile. Large tracts of fine 
 timber land, beautifully arranged in groves of various shapes and dimensions, are 
 found, from those of 15 or 18 square miles down to those of a few acres. Of the 
 minerals, limestone and coal abound in several settlements ; granite, in detached 
 masses, or boulders, called by the settlers lost rocks, are plentifully scattered over 
 the country, and are used for mill-stones. M'Lean county contained, in 1835, a 
 population of 5311 individuals. 
 
 From Salt creek, 26 miles south of Bloomington, following the road from Deca- 
 tur to the former place, the country is beautifully undulating. Elegant elevations 
 for farms and dwellings are constantly arresting the attention of the traveller; and 
 he only regrets that the beautiful country around him should remain in its native 
 wilderness, while thousands upon thousands of farmers in the eastern states, — in- 
 telligent, industrious, and most excellent citizens, — are expending their best ener- 
 gies upon a comparatively sterile soil, for an almost bare support; while here, with 
 the same application to business, they would secure competence and independence, 
 and lay the foundation for the future wealth and happiness of their children. To 
 secure these advantages, however, enterprize is necessary — sufficient, at least, to 
 bring them hither. True, we cannot but appreciate the feelings which prompt 
 them to remain on spots which are rendered almost sacred by the thousand associa- 
 tions which all generous hearts are sure to feel ; but with the aspiring youth, or 
 the father of a family, there are considerations of a still more elevated character, 
 which might well lead them to seek to better their condition by emigrating to the 
 west. 
 
 There are in the county several groves of timber, fertile, and desirable tracts, 
 well settled with an industrious and thriving population. The chief of them are 
 Big, Blooming, Cheyney's, Dry, Funk's, and Randolph's groves. 
 
 Big Grove is formed of several groves of timber connected, for 12 miles in 
 length, in the south-western part of the county, on the third principal meridian, 
 and township 21 north. It is a fine tract of country, rich in soil and well timbered, 
 on the Kickapoo creek. Bloomington, the county seat, is 18 miles from the heart 
 of the settlement, which contains from 150 to 200 families. 
 
 Blooming Grove adjoins Bloomington. It is about six miles long from north- 
 west to south-east, and varying in width from one to four miles, containing about 
 12 square miles of beautiful timber, with a large settlement of industrious farmers 
 
r 
 
 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 91 
 
 around it. Nearly all the land is already occupied with settlers, a majority of 
 whom are from Ohio. Both timbered land and prairie are tirst-rate. 
 
 Cheyney's Grove settlement is near the head-waters of tlie Sangamon, in the 
 east part of the county, twenty-three north, six east. This timher is an island ni 
 the great prairie of three or four square miles, 25 miles east of Bloomington, and 
 on the road to Danville. The population is 24 families. 
 
 Dry Grove is in township twenty-tour north, range one east, and about six miles 
 north of west from Bioomington, and lies at the head of Sugar creek. It is about 
 10 miles long from east to west, higii, dry, and undulating, and contains a settle- 
 ment of about 50 families. 
 
 Funk's Grove settlement is 12 miles south-west from Bioomington. The grove 
 is roundish in form, contains about eight square miles, and lies on the main branch 
 of Sugar creek. It has an excellent soil, fine water, and is monopolized by a 
 family connection of the name of Funk, from Ohio, who raise large numbers of 
 cattle. 
 
 Randolph's Grove, on Kickapoo creek, above Big Grove, is about 12 miles south 
 from Bioomington. In shape it is almost circular, and is a valuable tract of land, 
 containing limestone, and a population of about 40 families. The grove comprises 
 about 12 sections of timbered land. 
 
 Bioomington, the county town, occupies an elevated position on the margin of a 
 fine prairie, 120 miles north from Vandalia, and 820 from Washington City. The 
 other towns in the county have been but lately laid off, and are as yet inconsidera- 
 ble : they are, Hudson, Le Roy, Lytleville, Charleston, and Waynesville. The 
 latter is in the south-west corner of the county, on the road from Springfield to 
 Bioomington, and on the south side of the timber of Kickapoo creek. It has six 
 stores, two groceries, two physicians, a Methodist and a Presbyterian society, a 
 good school, and a charter for a seminary of learning. It has a fine body of limber 
 on the north, and a rich, undulating, and beautiful prairie south. Population in the 
 village, about 150. 
 
 MERCER County is situated in the northern part of the Military Bounty 
 Tract. It lies north of Warren, south of Rock Island, west of Henry, and east 
 of Louisa and Musquitine counties, Wisconsin Territory, from which it is separated 
 by the Mississippi river. Edwards and Pope's rivers, and the north fork of Hen- 
 derson's river, are the streams which water this county, along the Mississippi and 
 the borders of its water-courses. There is a great abundance of excellent timber: 
 its middle and eastern portions have extensive tracts of fertile prairies. Mercer 
 was laid olT in 1825, and contained in 1835 a population of 497 inhabitants. 
 
 The town of Mercer is located in the exact geographical centre, and with the 
 express view of its becoming the county seat of Mercer county. It is situated 
 mid-way between Pope's and Edwards rivers, which run through the county paral- 
 lel to each other, and at this point are not more than five miles apart. The site 
 is healthy and elevated, commanding a beautiful view of the surrounding country, 
 which is as rich and well adapted to the culture of wheat, and indeed all kinds of 
 grain as any in the state. The county is settling rapidly with a moral, industrious, 
 and enterprizing population. The water-power aflbrded by Pope's and Edwards 
 rivers is equal to that of any county in the state; a circumstance of much impor- 
 tance, not only on account of furnishing lumber for building, but for the erection 
 of grain and flouring mills. There is one saw-mill now in operation within two 
 and a half miles of Mercer, and several others will be built the approaching sea- 
 son, also within a few miles of the town. The situation of Mercer admits of con- 
 venient access to the timber, stone, and stone-coal, of both Pope's and Edwards 
 rivers and their branches. Mercer is situated about 14 miles from New Boston, on 
 the Mississippi ; at which there is an excellent landing. It is also on the direct 
 route from the latter place to Hennepin, and from Oquawka to Rock Island. 
 
 New Boston, the seat of justice, is the only other town in the county, and is 
 situated at the Upper Yellow Bank, just above Edwards river, nearly opposite the 
 mouth of the Lower Iowa, a considerable stream of the Wisconsin Territory, as 
 extensive as the Illinois. This place has a good landing, and a fine harbour; and 
 
92 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 when the opposite territory becomes settled, it cannot fail to become a town of con- 
 siderable iiuportaiice, as it will be the commercial entrepot for a large extent of 
 fertile country. 
 
 MONROE County, in the south-western part of the state, is situated north of 
 Randolj)h, soutli of ISt. Clair, and west of the state of Missouri, from which it is 
 separated by tlie Mississippi river. The interior of this county is watered by Prai- 
 rie du Long, IJorse, and i'Aigle creeks, and tiioir branches. The western part, 
 bordering on, and parallel to, the Mississippi river, is occupied by the American 
 Bottom, a ricli and fertile alluvion, subject to overflow from the river. East of this, 
 the country is generally broken and hilly. On the eastern border of the county, 
 there is a considerable proportion of good land, witii a due mixture of timber and 
 prairie. This is a ricli county, and exports a considerable quantity of produce. 
 Here is abundance of limestone, coal, and some copper. 
 
 Waterloo, the seat of justice of Monroe county, situated on elevated ground, 
 about 12 miles east of the Mississippi river, is a small village of about 120 mhab- 
 itants. Columbia and llarrisonville are tlie only other villages. This county was 
 formed out of Randolph and St. Clair in 181(5, and in 1835 contained 2G(J0 inhabit- 
 ants. English Settlement, in the eastern ])art of the county, contains about 40 
 lamilies, among whom are a number of English Catliolics. It is in township three 
 south, and range eight west, on I'rairie du Long creek. 
 
 MONTGOMERY County is situated north of Bond and Fayette, eouth of San- 
 gamon, east of Macoupin, and west of Shelby and Fayette counties, and extends 
 in length from 36 to 21 miles, and in breadth from 30 to 24; containing an area 
 of 954 square miles. This county is watered by branches of tiie north ibrk of the 
 Sangamon river, also by Shoal, Macoupin, and Ramsey creeks, and their tributaries, 
 It contains a considerable proportion of prairie land, which is generally high and 
 undulating. It was erected from Bond county in 1821, and in 1835 the inhabitants 
 amounted to 3740. 
 
 Hillsborough, the county town, is a healthful and thriving place, of about 300 
 iniiabitants, on the main road from Vandalia to Springfield, 28 miles north-west 
 from the former. It is situated in an elevated country, near the middle fork of 
 Shoal creek. 
 
 MORGAN is the most thickly settled county in Illinois, and contained in 183.5, 
 which then included the lately created county of Cass, 19,214 inhabitants: the 
 population is now estimated at 10,500. The county was formed in 1823, and is 
 bounded north by the new county of Cass, south by Greene and Macoupin, east by 
 Sangamon, and west by Pike and Sciuiyler, from which it is separated by the Illi- 
 nois river. It is in length from 34 to 27 miles, and in breadth 27, containing an 
 area of about 800 square miles. Tiie Illinois river washes tiie western borders of 
 the county. The other streams are Indian, Mauvaiseterre, Apple, and Sandy 
 creeks, and their branches : tliese furnish many good mill-seats. This county is 
 duly proportioned into timber and prairie, is well watered, and contains many exten- 
 sive and well cultivated farms. There are also numerous mills for sawing and 
 grinding, propelled by animal or water power, besides several large steam-mills. 
 Emigration, attended with industry and enterprizc, in a i'ew fleeting years, has 
 changed a region, that was until lately seen in all the wildness of uncultivated 
 nature, into smiling villages and luxuriant fields, and rendered it the happy abode 
 of intelligence and virtue. 
 
 The Diamond Grove is a most beautiful tract of timber, two miles south-west 
 from Jacksonville. It is elevated above the surrounding prairie, contains 700 or 
 800 acres, and is surrounded with beautiful farms. Adjoining the above is Diamond 
 Grove Prairie, south of, and adjacent to, Jacksonville. It is tour miles in extent, 
 with a rich soil, undulating, dry surlace, and mostly covered over with fine farms. 
 The English Settlement is situated west of Jacksonville, on Cadwell's, Walnut, 
 and Plum creeks. There arc about 100 families, mostly irom Yorkshire, England, 
 and fanners. They appear to be well pleased with tlie country, and to be accumu- 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 D3 
 
 lating property. Tlie Jersey Prairie settlement is on a beautiful and rich prairie, 
 in tlie norlliern part of the county, 10 niilos from .lacksonville. The land is rich, 
 timber adjoining' e.vcellent, the people moral and industrious, the settlement exten- 
 sive, populous, and healthful. 
 
 Morgan county contains a number of towns. Of tliese, Jacksonville, the seat 
 of justice, is the principal, and is one of the most thriving places in the state. The 
 others are, Meridosia, Naples, and Brussels, on the Illinois river ; Princeton, Lex- 
 ington, Franklin, VVaverley, Exeter, Geneva, Lynnville, VVincliester, and Man- 
 chester. 
 
 iMeridosia is a place of considerable business. It is six miles above Naples, and 
 22 from Jacksonville. It is situated on an elevated sand ridge, with a good land- 
 ing, wiieii the water is not too low. Here are two mills, several stores, and near 
 ;ilK) inhabitants. The great rail-road, extending from the Wabash river across the 
 state to the Mississippi, will pass through this town. 
 
 Winchester, 1(5 miles south-west from Jacksonville, is a thriving' village, with a 
 population of nearly 400. It was laid oft' in 1h;11, on elevated ground, and is in- 
 creasing rapidly.. It has several stores, and a number of mechanics of various 
 descriptions. The Baptists, Methodists, and Congregationalists, have societies 
 here. There are excellent lime and freestone quarries in the vicinity, and several 
 mills. A rail-road from Jacksonville through Lynnville and this place, will strike 
 the Illinois river opjiosite Augusta, in Pike county. 
 
 OGLE County is situated on both sides of Rock River, in the northern part of 
 the state, and is bounded on the north by Stephenson and Winnebago, .suutii by 
 Putnam, east by Kane, and w(;sl by .lo Daviess and Whiteside counties, it is from 
 Wa to 42 miles in (extent from north to south, and .'-iO t'rom east to west, and contains 
 an area of 1440 scpiare miles. It was formed in ls:j(j from Jo Daviess and a pnrt 
 of tlie attached portion of J^a Salle. Rock river passes diagonally through its 
 north-western portion. Winnebago swamp and several other swamps are in its 
 southern part. Pine, Leaf, Big Bend, and Dogs-head creeks, and several smaller 
 streams, all of which empty themselves into Rock river, furnish good mill-seats. 
 The timber is chietiy in groves, many of which are peculiarly beautiful, and of 
 various shapes and sizes. Much of the surliice is undulating, the soil calcareous, 
 deep and rich, and the country is nipidly settling. 
 
 StiUman's run, formerly called Mud creek, is a small stream that runs west and 
 enters Rock river a k\v miles below Sycamore creek, where, on the I4th of May, 
 1H.S2, a battalion of militia, consisting of about 27.^) men, under the command (jf 
 Major Isaiah iStillman, of Fulton county, were attacked, defeated, and eleven nlen 
 killed, by a portion of the Indian army under the celebrated Black Hawk. 
 
 This county has been surveyed by townships, but is not yet subdivided into sec- 
 tions ; the land, consetpiently, not in market. The flow of cmigrutioii is very 
 great from all the states north ol' Tennessee. First-rate claims are selling from 
 !ff;")(K) to 1((,()00. Second and third rate claims can yet be made in great numbers, 
 the county containing' 1400 siiuiire miles, and two fittlis only as yet taken up. 
 About two-thirds of the land is prairie; the other, timber of sup(>rior (juality. 
 Populatii)n of county, 2000. It is said that there is no better watered country on 
 our continent. Scarcely a mile square of land can be found without one or more 
 fine springs upon it. The soil is adapted to all kinds of grain ; corn, 75 bushels lo 
 the acre, without tending; wheat, ;}5 to 40 bushels; oats, 100. Of potatoes, the 
 crop is almost incredible. Of three acres planted last year, the hills about two 
 feet ai)art, the growth was so abundant as to force the potatoes out of the ground 
 nearly as large as a pint measure. The crop was a thousand bushels. 
 
 Ogle county is connected in its representation with Jo Daviess and several other 
 counties: its seat of justice is Oregon city, a flourishing town, situated on the 
 bank of Rock River, 100 miles above the mouth. It was laid out in July, 
 1H;5(), and one house then erected. There are now eleven, embracing three stores, 
 one tavern, one grocery, and .several medianics' shops. Two saw-mills moved by 
 water-power, are in the immediate vicinity, so that lumber may be readily obtained. 
 
94 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 All kinds, including' pine, sell at the mills for 22 dollars a thousand. Pine creek, 
 which contains a tine body of pine timber, is b>it three miles distant. 
 
 The following notice of Oregon city, and the country in its vicinity, is from the 
 letter of a traveller, published m the New- York Star. 
 
 "Thisplaceof course (as well as others on Rock river) is in its very infancy; but 
 a more lovely site tor an important town could not have been selected, and soon 
 the noise and clamour of steamboats and extensive traffic will give it litis and ani- 
 mation. The blut^i which follows the river until it reaches the city, leaves it and 
 falls back for a mile, tbrming the half of a circle, and meets it again just below in 
 picturesque grandeur. The situation of Oregon itself has forcibly reminded me 
 of Palermo, the capital of Sicily, surrounded on the land side by a chain of moun- 
 tains, forming a complete amphitheatre, which has been poetically called the 
 " Co7ico rOru,''' or Golden Shell. The banks of Rock river are not so high as 
 those in the Sicilian landscape ; but, contrasted with the wide expanse of country 
 around, are quite as etfective, and more rich in fertile charms. The swelling of 
 the prairies, gemmed with wild flowers of every hue, — the stately forest, and val- 
 leys interspersed with shady groves on the opposite side of the river surrounding 
 Hyde Park, from which we started the wild and bounding deer in great numbers, 
 — form features rarely to be met with in a single glance of the eye, either in this 
 or any other country ; and amidst all these beauties, 
 
 " The river nobly foams and flows, 
 
 The charm of this enchanted ground, 
 And all its thousand turns disclose 
 Some fresher beauty varying round." 
 
 This fairy-land was the scene of the bloody atrocities and human slaughter du- 
 ring the war of 1832 and '33, with the Sac and Fox Indians and the United States, 
 conducted by the celebrated chief Black Hawk and the Prophet, who, after their 
 capture, ceded the country east of the Mississippi to tiie United States, including 
 the Rock river from its mouth, or nearly so, to the dividing line between Illinois 
 and Wisconsin territory. Above this are scattered along the western shore of the 
 river a line of mounds, more ancient than even the wild and fabulous traditions of 
 the Indians. A hardy class of New-England settlers are now tilling these exten- 
 sive plains. The Indian gardens are now grown up with tall rank weeds, and the 
 war-cry is only heard beyond the Mississippi. Tlie last of the savages left in 
 May, 1836, and left a paradise indeed. Since 1 have seen this fair field, this noble 
 river, I am no longer surprised that the Indian, whose eloquence is the poetry of 
 nature, clung with such tenacity to this country, so passing lovel} in itselti and 
 containing their homes and the sepulchres of their dead warriors. 
 
 DixonviUe is a town site at Dixon's ferry, on the south side of Rock river, about 
 90 miles from the Mississippi. It contains two stores, two taverns, one grocery, a 
 steam saw-mill, ten or twelve families, and is a pleasant situation. Here, the 
 stage-roads from Chicago by Napiersville, from Ottawa by Troy Grove, and from 
 Peoria by Windsor and Princeton, all concentrate, and pass on to Galena. Rock 
 river here is 20(3 yards wide, and is crossed by a rope-ferry-boat. 
 
 At the Grand Detour of Rock river, five miles above DixonviUe, a town of the 
 same name has been laid off; and by cutting a canal across the neck of the bend 
 for a short distance, a valuable hydraulic power will be gained. Au enterprising- 
 company is engaged in the project. 
 
 PEORIA County. — The following account was taken from the Peoria Register 
 and North-western Gazetteer of April 8th, 1837 ; and, being written on the spot 
 and inserted in one of the most respectable papers in the State, is in all probability 
 an accurate representation. "This county holds a central position on the east 
 side of the Bounty Tract, having Fullon and Knox on the west, Putnam on the 
 north, and the Illinois river for its south-eastern boundary for a distance of 36 miles. 
 It contains 13 entire, and 8 fractional townships of land, making in all a little less 
 than 17 whole townships, 612 sections, 2448 quarter sections, or 391,680 acres. 
 Of the 2448 quarters, 763 have been appropriated as 'bounty lands,' and mostly 
 are held by speculators. A few are owned and occupied by actual settlers, and a 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 95 
 
 very small part still remain in the hands of the original patentees. More than 
 two-thirds of Peoria couHty is congress land (including what has been secured to 
 settlers by pre-emption, as also the purchases made at the land sales,) and subject 
 to entry in the land office at Quincy, at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre. 
 
 "The proportion allotted to 'bounties,' taking the militdi'y tract together, is 
 seven-tenths of the whole; and, from the mistaken policy of those into whose 
 hands the ownership has generally fallen, these bounty lands may be considered 
 as virtually out of market; consequently they must remain to a great extent un- 
 settled, until the owners are willing to be known through disinterested agents, or 
 disposed to treat the emigrant with the same liberality he receives from govern- 
 ment. But, fortunately for Peoria, her proportion of military land is small, and 
 we may safely calculate that the tide of emigration will contmue to flow in upon 
 us with undiminished strength, for years to come. To tlie man of industry and 
 enterprize we extend a hearty welcome to our rich and salubrious county, not 
 doubting but an application of his perseverance in any part of it will insure an 
 abundant reward tor his toil. 
 
 "Peoria is well divided into prairie and timber land of about equal quantities of 
 each. To have a correct idea of the form, beauty, and peculiar adaptation of our 
 prairies to farming purposes, the reader will recollect that five streams of no in- 
 considerable magnitude water this county, all of which, with the exception of 
 French creek, run a southerly direction uito the Illinois river. Snatchwine ("El- 
 bow") passes through tlie north-east part of the county; Kickapoo, with its east, 
 nortli and west forks, through the centre ; and Lamarche and Copperas creeks 
 through the west. Spoon river runs along near the northern border, and French 
 creek has a westward course through the north part of the county. All of these 
 streams are bordered by timber from one to two miles wide, (save the interval bot- 
 toms;) the prairies occupying the balance of the space between, and descending 
 in delightful slopes towards the timber, from the dividing ridge in the centre. 
 Thus it will be seen at a glance that the whole county is admirably divided into 
 alternate tracts of timber and prairie land. No county in the state has more 
 facilities for speedily enriching the industrious farmer than Peoria. 
 
 " Snatchwine, French, and Lamarche creeks, are good mill-streams for two- 
 thirds of the year. The balance of the time they are, in ordinary seasons, too dry. 
 An excellent grist and saw mill has been put up on the Snatchwine, and prepara- 
 tions are making for mills on the Lamarche. Kickapoo is an invaluable rnili- 
 stream, and furnishes a sufficiency of water at all times to carry one run of stone 
 — for nine months of the year it is sufficient for two run below the 'Forks.' Some 
 years since a flouring mill was erected on that stream, which is in successful op- 
 eration still, within two and a half miles of Peoria village. Two saw-mills in the 
 vicinity of the flouring-mill are in profitable business. There are two saw-mills 
 above and one grist-mill below. 
 
 A very convenient bridge has been erected for some years across Kickapoo, four 
 miles below the village. Three more bridges have been built where roads leading 
 from Peoria westward and northward cross the Kickapoo. Tlie stock for a bridge 
 across the Illinois river at Peoria has been subscribed, amounting to fifty thousand 
 dollars. Measures have been taken by the citizens of Peoria to erect it forthwith. 
 
 " Two steam saw-mills in this village, and one 12 miles below, in a finely tim- 
 bered region, are in operation. A steam-mill six miles above here, and a saw-mill 
 on Spoon river, in the north-west part of the county, are nearly completed. 
 
 "These constitute the mills and bridges of importance completed or in contera- 
 plntion in the county of Peoria. They certainly indicate an increasing prosperity 
 in this section of the country ; a prosperity which the character of our soil, and 
 the physical advantages we so eminently enjoy, are well calculated to sustain. 
 Judging from personal observation in every corner of the county, the writer is of 
 opinion that out of 24'18 quarter sections of land in Peoria comity, not more than 
 500 are unfit for cultivation by being 'too wet, or broken and hilly.' Nor would 
 even half this number be so considered in any other state than Illinois. What is 
 here looked upon as hilly barrens, would, on the east side of the mountains, be es- 
 teemed excellent arable land. But admitting that we have 500 quarters unsus- 
 
96 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 ceptible of cultivation, still we have 1948 which are tillable : these would support 
 as many families in ease and comfort, or an agricultural population (allowing' 10 
 persons to a family) of 19,480. It is not to be presumed tliat the farming- interest 
 of this county will ever comprise more than two thirds of its entire population; 
 consequently, when we shall have settled all our good lands, and have 19,480 in- 
 habitants engaged in agriculture, our whole population will amount to ;30,000. In 
 1830, the number of inhabitants in this and Putnam counties, was 1310. Probably 
 our own number was about 500. The population at present, in Peoria county 
 alone, is estimated at 7000, consisting of emigrants from every state in the Union, 
 from England, Ireland, Germany, and France. Nine-tenths of the whole are na- 
 tive-born citizens of the United States. Of these, probably a fourth are from New- 
 England, the same proportion from New-York, a fourth from Pennsylvania and 
 Oliio, and the remainder Irom other states. During the present season, we are re- 
 ceiving the greatest number of emigrants from Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New- 
 Vork. Those from the latter state come on generally by way of the lakes. From 
 the other two states, emigrants usually reach here in steamboats by way of the 
 rivers. At least two-thirds of the emigrants to this region, arrive by this last 
 named route. 
 
 " In addition to the advantages of having an extremely well watered and fertile 
 soil, we have ine.xhaustible beds of stone-coal, limestone and sandstone, in almost 
 every part of tJie county. The Kickapoo and its branches, the Lamarche and 
 Copperas creek bluffs, particularly abound in tliese important articles. Some of 
 ' the stone on Kickapoo have, on trial, been found to make good grindstones, and a 
 quarry has lately been discovered near tiie 'Forks,' which appears of superior 
 quality. The stone-coal is said to be little inferior to that of Pittsburg, and is Ibund 
 in the bluffs of all the creeks and Illinois river. It is generally used for fuel at 
 Peoria in winter ; is hauled from one to three miles, and is worth 12 cents per 
 bushel. The sandstone is of fair quality, and is used for the underpinning of 
 buildings, for door and window sills, &c. Iron ore is also said to have been tbund 
 in the county ; and ' floating' mineral, supposed to contain zinc, has been discovered 
 in various places. From some recent discoveries, and other strong indications, it is 
 quite probable that the mineral resources of this county have been but very par- 
 tially developed. 
 
 "The principal productions of the soil are, wheat, corn, oats, rye, potatoes, beans, 
 peas and flax, all of which arrive to great perfection. The average quantity of 
 each, per acre, is as follows — wheat about 25 bushels, corn 65, oats 30, rye 35, and 
 potatoes 300. Garden vegetables, of all kinds, attain a most luxuriant growth. 
 Apples, pears, cherries, and plums, do well, but the winters are rather severe for 
 the successful cultivation of the peach-tree. Wheat is worth, at this time, -SI 75 
 cents per bushel, and very scarce. Corn, 50 cents ; oats, 37 cents ; potatoes, 33. 
 Of the above named articles of produce, very little surplus for exportation is now 
 raised in this county, owing principally to the unusual quantity required to supply 
 the immense emigration constantly flowing in upon us. Nearly 140,000 pounds 
 of pork, and 10,000 pounds of lard, over and above the amount required for home 
 consumption, were shipped from this county, for the lower market, in February 
 1835. Besides the downward trade of the river, a considerable traffic in live cat- 
 tle and hogs, was carried on with the Galena lead-mines. 
 
 "The landing places and places of deposit on the Illinois in Peoria county, are 
 Peoria, Rome, Allentown, and Chillicothe. The three latter are inconsiderable 
 points in the north-east part of the county, but possessing much natural beauty, 
 and surrounded by a fine growing country. Peoria is situated at the outlet of lake 
 Peoria, about equidistant from the north-east and south-west extremes of the county. 
 This place has been so often described, and is so well known by every citizen of 
 the state, that a particular notice of it here is deemed unnecessary. Suffice it to 
 say, that had nature herself attempted to give any ' nice touches and finishings,' 
 to what is already so perfect, she might have exhibited no additional evidence of 
 skill. 
 
 "In concluding this description of Peoria county, the writer feels authorized to 
 say, that in excellency of soil, abundance of water, timber, stone, stone-coal, lime- 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 97 
 
 stone, freestone, &.c. this county is unsurpassed by any portion of the Bounty 
 Tract, and holds out, at this time, strong inducements to the emigrating farmer or 
 mechanic to make this his permanent, his prosperous, his happy ' home.'' " 
 
 The seat of justice is the town of Peoria, now the most important place in the 
 Military Bounty Tract: the others are mostly small villages, lately settled: they 
 are, Rome, containing 15 or 20 houses, 18 miles north-east of Peoria, at the head 
 of lake Peoria, on Illinois river; Chillicothe, 3 miles above Rome, on Illinois river, 
 with about 30 bouses and mills in the vicinity on Snatchwine creek; Detroit, on 
 Illinois river, six miles above Peoria; Northampton, 25 miles north-east of Peoria, 
 on the Galena and Chicago roads; Allentown, on Illinois river, between Rome and 
 Chillicothe; Kickapoo, twelve miles west of Peoria; Hudson, nine miles west of 
 Peoria; Kingston, on Illinois river, with abundance of stone-coal and building stone 
 in Its vicinity ; Harkness, having excellent limestone for building, splendid prairie, 
 and first-rate timber, 20 miles west from Peoria ; Wheeling, two miles east of 
 Harkness; Caledonia, one mile south-east from Harkness; Aurora, on the head- 
 waters of Copperas creek, four miles south-east of Harkness; Charleston, 18 miles 
 north-west of Peoria ; Lower Peoria, three miles from Peoria, and half a mile from 
 Illinois river. 
 
 PERR Y County is one of the smallest in the state, and is situated between 
 Washington on the north, Jackson on the south, Jefferson and Franklin on the 
 east, and Randolph county on the west. It is in extent from east to west 24, and 
 from north to south 18 miles ; containing an area of 4^32 square miles. The sur- 
 face of the county is tolerably level, about one third prairie, and chiefly a g-^od 
 second-rate soil. It is watered mostly by the Beaucoup creek and its branches, 
 and the Little Muddy creek which touches its eastern border: both these streams 
 traverse the county ti-om north to south. The agricultural products and exports 
 are considerable for its population: they consist of the usual staples of this sec- 
 tion of the state. 
 
 Elk Prairie lies between the little Muddy and Beaucoup creeks, and is about five 
 miles in extent. It is dry and tolerably level ; soil second-rate, and the settlement 
 contains about 25 families. 
 
 Lost Prairie, seven miles west of Pinckney ville, is three miles long, and one 
 mile and a half wide. It has a rich soil, high undulating surface, and a good set- 
 tlement. 
 
 Pinckney ville, the seat of justice, is a small village, situated at the head of Four- 
 mile Prairie, on the west side of Beaucoup creek It is surrounded by a large 
 settlement of industrious farmers, and contains a population of about 100 persons. 
 
 PIKE County is situated in the southern part of the Military Bounty Tract, 
 and extends from the Mississippi to the Illinois river. At its first formation in 
 1821, it comprised not only the Military Bounty Tract, but likewise the whole of 
 the state lying north of the Illinois river, and extending from the Mississippi to 
 lake Micliigan, and which is now divided into upwards of twenty counties. It is 
 bounded north by Adams and Schuyler, south by Calhoun, east by Greene and 
 Morgan counties, from which it is separated by the Illinois, and west by the Mis- 
 sissippi river. It varies in extent from east to west from 17 to 36, and from north 
 to soutli from 24 to 30 miles, and contains an area of about 780 square miles. Pike 
 county is washed on its western boundary by the Mississippi river, and on the east- 
 ern by the Illinois; in the interior it has tlie Snicartee Slough, which runs paral- 
 lel to the Mississippi through the whole of its western border : this affords a steam- 
 boat navigation to the town of Atlas, at a full stage of water. It is also watered 
 by Bay, Pigeon, Hadley, Key's, Black, Dutch Church, and Six-mile creeks, which 
 fall into the Mississippi, and M'Kees, and others, which fall into the Illinois : these 
 all furnish good mill-seats. The land in this county is various; much of it is gently 
 undulating, with a good soil on the rivers. Considerable tracts are subject to inun- 
 dation at the spring floods, particularly between the Mississippi and the Snicartee 
 Slough. In the interior are considerable tracts of table-land, high, rolling, and 
 rich, with a due proportion of timber and prairie. In a pleasant vale on Key's 
 
98 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 creek, is a salt-spring, 20 feet in diameter, which boils from the earth, and throws 
 o!f a stream of some size, forming a salt pond in its vicinity. Salt has been made 
 iiere, thougii not in great quantities. This county contained in 1833 a population 
 of 6037 persons. 
 
 Pittdfit'ld, the seat of justice, is situated on a high and healthful prairie, about 
 11 miles west of the Illinois river. The country around it is fertile, and propor- 
 tionably distributed into timber and prairie, and is rapidly settling. The otiier 
 towns are Montezuma and Augusta on Illinois river, Griggsville, Perry, Pleasant 
 Vale, Kinderhook, and Atlas : these are all small villages, lately located. 
 
 Augusta is on the west bank of the Illinois river, 10 miles east of Pittsfield, and 
 22 miles from Jacksonville. It is opposite the termination of the Jacksonville, 
 Lynnville, and Winchester rail-road, which is now under contract. Another com- 
 pany has been chartered to extend this line from Augusta, by Pittsfield and Atlas, 
 to Louisiana, Mo., whence another line of rail-road has been projected, and a char- 
 ter granted by the legislature of Missouri, across to Columbia and the Missouri 
 river. 
 
 Perry is situated on section twenty-one, township three south, three vilest. It 
 has two or three stores, several families, and is a pleasant village, surrounded with 
 a fine country, diversified with timber and prairie. 
 
 POPE County lies in the southern part of the state, and is washed on the south 
 and east by the Ohio river, which separates it from the state of Kentucky ; on the 
 north, it is bounded by Gallatin, and on the west, by Johnson county. Its greatest 
 length from north to south is 36 miles, and it varies in width from 30 to 11 miles. 
 Its area is about 576 square miles. The interior of the county is watered by Big 
 Bay, Lusk's, Grand Pierre, and Big creek. It is generally well timbered with all 
 the variety of trees that abound in the southern part of the state. The surface is 
 generally level, e.xcept on the banks of the Ohio. The soil is mostly sandy, but 
 yields good crops. This county was formed from Gallatin and Johnson in 1816, 
 and contained in 1835 a population of 3756. 
 
 The natural curiosity, called the Cave in Rock, is well known to all the navi- 
 gators of the Ohio river: it is situated on the bank of the Ohio, where the dividing 
 line between Pope and Gallatin counties strikes the river, about 30 miles below 
 the mouth of tlie Wabash. It a large cave, supposed by the Indians to be the 
 haiiitation of the Great Spirit. 
 
 The following description of this cave is given by Thaddeus M. Harris, an 
 English tourist, who visited it in the spring of 1803, — a writer who has done justice 
 to the West in his descriptions generally. " For about three or four miles before 
 you come to this place, you are presented with a scene truly romantic. On the 
 Illinois side of the river, you see large ponderous rocks piled one upon another, of 
 different colours, shapes, and sizes. Some appear to have gone through the hands 
 of the most skilful artist ; some represent the ruins of ancient edifices : others 
 thrown promiscuously in and out of the river, as if nature intended to show us with 
 what ease she could handle those mountains of solid rock. In some places you see 
 purling streams winding their course down their rugged front; while in others, the 
 rocks project so far, that they seem almost disposed to leave their doubtful situa- 
 tions. After a short relief from this scene, you come to a second, which is some- 
 thing similar to the first; and here, with strict scrutiny, you can discover the cave. 
 Before its mouth stands a delightful grove of cypress trees, arranged immediately 
 on the bank of the river. TJiey have a fine appearance, and add much to the 
 cheerfulness of the place. 
 
 " The mouth of the cave is but a few feet above the ordinary level of the river, 
 and is formed by a semicircular arch of about 80 feet at its base, and 25 feet in 
 height, the top projecting considerably over, forming a regular concave. From the 
 entrance to the extremity, which is about 180 feet, it has a regular and gradual 
 ascent. On either side is a solid bench of rock; the arch coming to a point about 
 the middle of the cave, where you discover an opening sufficiently large to receive 
 the body of a man, through which comes a small stream of fine water, made use 
 of by those who visit this place. From this hole, a second cave is discovered, 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 99 
 
 whose dimensions, form, etc., are not known. Tlie rock is of limestone. Tiie 
 sides of the cave are covered with inscriptions, names of persons, dates, etc." The 
 trees have been cut down, and tlie entrance into the cave exposed to view. 
 
 In 1797, this cave was the place of resort and security to Mason, a notorious 
 robber, and his gang, who were accustomed to plunder and murder the crews of 
 boats, while descending the Ohio. It still serves as a temporary abode for those 
 wanting shelter in case of shipwreck, or other accidents, which frequently happen 
 to emigrants. Families have been known to reside here for a considerable space 
 of time. The rock is of limestone, abounding with shells. 
 
 Irish Settlement is on the Ohio river, about 15 miles above Golconda: it is on a 
 rich alluvial soil, and contains about 100 families. 
 
 Lewis's Settlement is in the southern part of the county, above and opposite the 
 mouth of Cumberland river. This is the oldest settlement in tiiis part of the state, 
 and contains 60 or 70 families. 
 
 \Vhitesides' Settlement is 12 miles west of Golconda, on Big Cay creek and 
 the state road, and contains a population of 100 families. 
 
 Golconda, the county town, is situated on the west bank of the Ohio, at the 
 mouth of Lusk's creek, about 80 miles above t!ie mouth of tlie Ohio : it contains 
 several stores, the county buildings, &.C., and about 150 inhabitants. 
 
 PUTNAM County is situated on both sides of the Illinois river, the greater 
 portion being on the western side of that stream. It is among tlie largest counties 
 in the state, comprising an area of about 43 lull townships, or 1548 square miles, 
 and is 45 miles in extent from north to south on the eastern boundary, and 42 on 
 the western, and from east to west 30 miles. The county is bounded north by 
 Ogle and Whiteside, south by Tazewell and Peoria, east by La Salle, and west by 
 Henry and Knox counties. 
 
 The streams which water this county are the Illinois and its branches, Bureaw, 
 Crow, and Sandy creeks, &.c. ; also, the head-waters of Spoon river, which traverse 
 the western border : these furnisli many excellent mill-seats. Some of the finest 
 lands in the state are in this county : there are beautiful groves of timber, and rich 
 undulating and dry prairies; a few tracts of prairie are level and wet, and there 
 are some small lakes and ponds, and some swamps, in the northern part. 
 
 The timber comprises most of the varieties common to this part of the state : 
 besides oaks of several species, there are black and white walnut, sugar-maple, 
 blue, white, and hoop ash, elm, cherry, aspen, iron-wood, buck-eye, linden, locust, 
 mulberry, &.c. Various mineral productions exist, and are found in sufficient quan- 
 tities: the chief are limestone, sandstone, freestone, and bituminous coal. 
 
 The religious denominations in Putnam county are Methodists, Presbyterians, 
 Baptists, and Congregationalists : there is a county Bible society, a temperance 
 society, a county Sunday School Union, a number of Sunday Schools, a county 
 lyceum, and several other philanthropic societies. The towns are Hennepin, the 
 seat of justice, for the county, Princeton, Windsor, Providence, Floria, Henry, Dor- 
 chester, Wyoming, and Lacon. 
 
 Hennepin is situated in the great bend of t!ie Illinois, on t!ie east side of the 
 river : it is about 50 miles above Peoria. Its site is an elevated prairie, the surface 
 gently ascending from the river, with an e.xcellent body of rich land adjacent: 
 steamboats ascend to Hennepin, at a moderate stage of the water. Tiiis place was 
 laid out in 1831, and now contains ten stores, four groceries, three taverns, throe 
 lawyers, four physicians, a Presbyterian and a Methodist congregation, a court- 
 house and jail, a good school, and about 500 inhabitants. 
 
 Lacon, on the east side of the Illinois, 30 miles above Peoria, and 20 below Hen- 
 nepin, is a thriving little town, built on the second bank of the river, and contains 
 four stores, a large steam flouring and steam saw mill, and 150 iniiabitants. The 
 country in its vicinity, especially on the east side of the Illinois river, is well set- 
 tled, and is a fine agricultural district, of which Lacon will be the place of busi- 
 ness. There is in the vicinity of the town an abundance of fine timber, building- 
 stone, and stone-coal. The state legislature recently passed acts for the location 
 of three state roads to and through this place ; two to connect with the ferry, and 
 
100 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 one running from north to south ; — and also chartered the Lacon academy, and the 
 Lacon manufacturing company. 
 
 Windsor is a small town on Bureau creek, 10 miles west from Hennepin, and 
 on the main state road from Peoria by Princeton to Galena. It has two stores, two 
 g-roceries, one tavern, one lawyer, one physician, one minister of the gospel, and 
 about 100 inhabitants. A grist and saw mill are in the vicinity. 
 
 The subjoined notice of Putnam county is from a late number of the Hennepin 
 Journal : 
 
 " Almost every county in the state has had its topography and history published to 
 the world, in some one or more of the public journals of the day ; while to ours, which 
 is one of the most important in the northern part of the state, there has been no- 
 thing said ; and at a distance, there are few who have heard that there is such a coun- 
 ty in the state as Putnam. And in order to obviate this, and let the readers of the 
 Journal at a distance know something of this region, and its progress of improve- 
 ment, we will attempt a brief account of the history and topography of Putnam 
 county. 
 
 "Putnam county was organized in the year 1831, but did not increase rapidly 
 in population until atler the termination of the Black Hawk war in 1832 and '33. 
 But after the conclusion of hostilities, and when security was restored to the settler, 
 immigrants came in from every quarter of the union, and spread over the country 
 in every direction like a flood, so that nearly every grove of timber soon found an 
 inhabitant of a very different stamp from the native red man, who, but a short time 
 since, was lord of the grove and the prairie, and who roamed over these fair plains 
 unmolested, having none to dispute his right to the soil, or disturb him in his scenes 
 of pleasure at his wigwam, and enjoyments of the chase. 
 
 " And every year since has added large lumibers to the enterprizing population 
 who first planted themselves around the beautiful groves of Putnam ; and so rapid 
 has been the increase, that not only immediately around the groves is the settler 
 found, but the large prairies to a very considerable e.xtent are studded over with 
 houses and farms, presenting to the eye of the beholder a scene of singular beauty 
 and grandeur. Putnam county now contains about 1.500 voters, and will in a short 
 time, in point of population and political strength, vie with any county in the state, 
 e.xcept the county of Sangamon. Putnam county is situated on both sides of the 
 Illinois river, and composed of rich and beautiful undulating prairies, interspersed 
 with fine groves of excellent timber, and abounding in bituminous coal of good 
 quality, together with a sufficient supply of rock tor building purposes, and is 
 watered by a number of fine streams, possessing a large amount of hydraulic power, 
 which on several of them is now pretty well improved, particularly on Bureau and 
 Crow creeks. 
 
 '• We have no hesitation in saying that Putnam county possesses agricultural 
 and conmiercial advantages equal to those of any county in tlie state, and that it 
 has as beautiful a surface and as rich a soil, with as good a supply of timber, as is ! 
 found anywhere in the west. The land being dry and rolling, is pleasant and easy 
 to cultivate, and yields to the industrious farmer an abundant reward for his labour, 
 producing every thing incident to the climate in the greatest profusion, and with 
 an ease to the cultivator that would appear almost incredible to the people of the 
 states farther east, who are accustomed to a hard and sterile soil, when compared 
 with ours. 
 
 " The inhabitants of this county are enterprizing and intelligent, having emi- 
 grated mainly from Ohio, New-York, and New England, and coming here with 
 their accustomed habits of industry, they soon succeed in subduing these fertile 
 prairies to a state of high cultivation. And such is the comparative ease with 
 wliich land can be brought into cultivation, that the farmer will accomplish here 
 in three years, what could not be attained in the timbered parts of Ohio and Indi- 
 ana, with the same labour, in ten ; which circumstance alone, when duly considered 
 by him who is about to emigrate to the west to find a home, is an inducement 
 amply sufficient to give a decided preference to a prairie country. And we would 
 be glad to see the enterprizing citizens of tiie older states, particularly farmers and 
 mechanics, coming in amongst us by hundreds, and purchasing the rich prairies. 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 101 
 
 and spreading- over them their luxuriant fields of grain, and herds of cattle and 
 sheep, which will soon reward theni amply for the labour and difficulties attendinn- 
 the settlement of a new country. On account of the i^reat pressure in the eastern 
 states, we anticipate a heavy emig-ration to tlie west this season, and as we have 
 an abundance of room, wo will welcome those who may come, hoping that they 
 will find a desirable home amongst us." 
 
 RANDOLPH County is bounded north by Monroe, St. Clair, and Washington ; 
 east by Perry and Jackson, and west by Monroe county and the Mississippi river. 
 Its greatest length is 29 miles, and greatest breadth 2G ; but it is rendered irregu- 
 lar by the curvatures of the Mississippi river, and contains an area of 520 square 
 miles. This county is traversed by the Kaskaskia river and its branches. Horse, 
 Nine-mile, and Plum creeks; also by St. Mary's and Gagnic creeks. At the 
 mouth of the Kaskaskia commences the American Bottom, which extends along 
 the banks of the Mississippi northwardly upwards of 80 miles. It is the most fer- 
 tile tract of land in the state. Upon this tiie first settlements were made by the 
 French of Canada. The villages still retain much of their antique appearance. 
 Below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, the bank of the Mississippi is generally high 
 and rocky, affording good sites for towns. In the interior of the county, the surface 
 is frequently undulating, and sometimes hilly. Randolph is one of the oldest 
 counties in Illinois, having been formed in 1795 ; and it contained in 1835 a jxipu- 
 lation of 5695 individuals. 
 
 • In the north-western part of the county are the ruins of Fort Chartres, a large 
 stone fortification, erected by the French while in possession of Illinois. It is situ- 
 ated half a mile from the Mississippi, and three miles from Prau-ie du Rocher. 
 
 It was originally built by the French in 1720, to defend themselves against the 
 Spaniards, who were then takmg possession of the country on the Mississippi. It 
 was rebuilt in 1756. The circumstances, character, form, and liistory of this fort, 
 are interesting, as it is intimately connected with the early history of this country. 
 Once it was a most formidable piece of masonry, the materials of which were 
 brought three or tour miles from the bluffs. It was originally an irregular quad- 
 rangle, the exterior sides of which were 490 feet in circumference. Within the 
 walls were the commandant's and commissary's houses, a magazine for stores, bar- 
 racks, powder-magazine, bake-house, guard-house, and prison. 
 
 This prodigious military work is now a heap of ruins. Many of the hewn stones 
 have been reiTioved by the people to Kaskaskia. A slough from the Mississippi 
 approached and undermined the wall on one side in 1772. Over the whole fort is 
 a considerable growth of trees, and most of its walls and buildings have fallen 
 down, and lie in one promiscuous ruin. 
 
 Kaskaskia, the seat of justice, was formerly the seat of government of the terri- 
 tory of Illinois: it is situated on the right bank of the Kaskaskia river, seven miles 
 above its junction with the Mississippi. The otJier towns are Prairie du Rocher, 
 Chester, Liberty, and Columbus. 
 
 Prairie du Rocher is an ancient French village, in the north-west part of the 
 county, on the American Bottom, near the rocky bluffs, from which it derives its 
 name, and 14 miles north-west of Kaskaskia. It is in a low, unhealthy situation, 
 along a small creek of the same name, which rises in the bluffs, passes across the 
 American Bottom, and enters the Mississippi. The houses are built in the French 
 style, the strec^ts very narrow, and the inhabitants preserve more of the simplicity 
 of character and habits peculiar to early times, than any village in Illinois. Prairie 
 du Rocher in 1766 contained 14 families; the population at" present is estimated 
 at 35 families. 
 
 Chester, just below the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the bank of the Mis- 
 sissippi, is situated on an elevated strip of bottom land at the foot of the bluffs, and 
 is a commercial depot for the country back. Exports by steamboats for 1836, 
 $150,000; imports, $130,000. It has five stores, three groceries, one tavern, one 
 physician, two ministers of the gospel, four warehouses, one steam saw and grist 
 mill, one castor-oil factory, and 280 inhabitants. 
 
 Liberty is on the left bank of the Mississippi, about 10 miles below the mouth 
 
 9* ■ ""^^ 
 
102 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 of the Kaskaskia river : it contains 150 inhabitants, has a steam, saw, and flouring 
 mill, six stores, three groceries, two taverns, one minister of the gospel, and two 
 pliysicians. 
 
 Columbus is near the Flat Prairie, in the north-east part of the county, 18 miles 
 from Kaskaskia : it contains an academy and a congregation of Reformed Presby- 
 terians or Covenanters, who have a resident minister and a respectable society. 
 
 ROCK ISLAISD Countt/ is situated in the north-west part of the state, on both 
 sides of Rock river, and is an irregularly shaped district, extending along the Mis- 
 sissippi, following the current of the stream, for upwards of 60 nules. It was or- 
 ganized from parts of Jo Daviess and Mercer counties in 1S3I, and contains an 
 area of about 432 square miles. Its population in 183.5 amounted to 616 individu- 
 als, but is now estimated at from 1200 to 1.500. 
 
 The interior of the county is watered by Rock river. Copperas creek. Lake 
 creek, &-c. The soil along the Mississippi for 2.5 miles is alluvion, somewhat 
 sauJy, and rich : in the interior of the county, there is much good land between 
 the watur-courscs, Vv'ith some bluffs, knobs, ravhies, and sink holes. South of Rock 
 river, a portion of the county is i-ather inferior, with some wet prairie and swamps. 
 Rock Island, iu t!ie Mississippi river, is in this county: it commences three miles 
 above the mouth of Rock river, and is three miles long, and from one half to one 
 mile wide, with limestone rock for its base. Fort Armstrong is on its south end : 
 on two sides, the rock is twenty feet in perpendicular height above the river, and 
 forms the foundation wall of the fort. A portion of the island is cultivated. 
 
 The towns in the county are Stephenson, the seat of justice. Rock Island City, 
 Milan, Rockport, and Port Byron. 
 
 Stephenson is situated on the Mississippi, opposite the lower end of Rock Island, 
 two miles above the mouth of Rock River, and about 330 above St. Louis. It has 
 20 or 30 families, and several stores, at which a considerable amount of business is 
 transacted. The fine situation of this place, its natural commercial advantages, 
 and the rapidly increasing population of the fertile country around it on both sides 
 of the Mississippi, will no doubt render it in a short time one of the most con- 
 siderable towns in this section of Illinois. 
 
 Rock Island city is laid out on a magnificent scale, at the junction and in the 
 forks between Rock river and the Mississippi. In connexion, a company has been 
 chartered to cut a canal from the Mississippi, near the head of the upper rapids, 
 across to Rock river, by which, it is said, an immense hydraulic power will be 
 gained. The town site, as surveyed, extends over a large area, and includes Ste- 
 phenson the seat of justice. 
 
 Milan (formerly known as M'Neal's Landing) is situated on the east bank of 
 the Mississippi, 12 miles above Fort Armstrong, and 90 below Galena. The town 
 has a fine steamboat landing, and contains two stores, two taverns, a new one 
 building, and a good school-house in progress of erection. There are four saw- 
 mills within a sliort distance, and twelve within ten miles. 
 
 The country in the vicinity is abundantly supplied with timber, limestone, and 
 coal. There have been several boat-loads of coal taken from there this season to Ga- 
 lena, it being the nearest coal to that point yet discovered. The company who 
 own this site obtained a charter at the last session of the legislature for a canal to 
 run from Rock river to the Mississippi, terminating at this point, leaving Rock 
 river at the head of the rapids, avoiding the only serious obstacle to tiie navigation 
 of that stream by a canal of only four miles in length. This will open through 
 Milan all the trade of the Pekatonica and Rock river country, which is one of tlje 
 best agricultural districts in the state. The transportation of coal alone would 
 make the stock of this canal good property, there being inexhaustible beds along 
 the whole length of it. It is also surrounded with an excellent farming country, 
 which is rapidly filling up with an enterprising population. Four colonies have 
 settled back in Henry county ; and this is their nearest point oh the river, and the 
 commissioners of some of them are interested in Milan. 
 
 Rockport and I'urt Byron are both situated on the left bank of the Mississippi 
 river, and are small and recently settled places : the latter is in tiie northern part 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 103 
 
 of the county, about 25 miles above the mouth of Rock river, and the former about 
 seven miles below tliat stream. 
 
 SANGAMON County was formed from Bond and Madison counties, in 1821 ; 
 and altiiougli. considerably reduced from its original dimensions, is the largest and 
 most populous in the state : it is 48 miles in extent from north to south, 42 miles 
 from east to west on its southern, and upwards of 60 on its northern boundary ; 
 containing an area about equal to sixty full townships, or 2100 square miles. The 
 county is bounded north by Tazewell and a small part of M'Lean, east by Macon, 
 south by Montgomery and Macoupin, and west by Morgan and Cass counties. 
 
 The county of Sangamon, ever since its first settlement, has been justly esteemed 
 the most desirable tract in the state, and it consequently has been settled with great 
 rapidity. Previous to 1819, there was not a single white inhabitant on the waters 
 of the Sangamon river : at the last census, the inhabitants numbered 17,573 : they 
 doubtless now amount to upwards of 20,000. The county is watered by the San- 
 gamon and its tributaries: the chief of these are the south tbrk of Sangamon, Salt 
 creek and its branches, Sugar and Kickapoo creeks: these all rise without the 
 limits of the county. In addition, there are a number of small and beautiful streams 
 which have their rise and course within the county ; these empty into the Sanga- 
 mon on both sides of the river, and furnish the inhabitants not only with excellent 
 water, but with numerous valuable mill-seats, besides being lined with extensive 
 tracts of first-rate timbered land. 
 
 The whole territory, watered by the Sangamon river and its branches, is an Ar- 
 cadian region, in which nature has delighted to bring together her happiest combi- 
 nations of landscape. With the exception of the creek bottoms, and the interior 
 of the larg-e prairies, it has a beautiful undulating surface, sufficient to drain the 
 surface of surplus water, and to render it one of the finest agricultural districts in 
 tiie United States. The prairies are not so extensive as to be incapable of settle- 
 ment from want of timber. The Sangamon itself is a fine boatable stream of the 
 Illinois, entering it on the east side, 100 miles above the mouth of the Illinois. All 
 the tributaries that enter this beautiful river have sandy and pebbly bottoms, and 
 pure and transparent waters. TJiere is in this district a happy proportion of tim- 
 ber and prairie lands : the soil is of great fertility, being a rich calcareous loam, 
 from one to three feet deep, intermixed with fine sand. The climate is not very 
 different from that of the central parts of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, the lati- 
 tude being about the same. The summer range for cattle is inexhaustible. The 
 growth of forest trees is similar to that of the rich lands in the western country in 
 general. The proportion of locust, black walnut, peccan, and other trees that in- 
 dicate the richest soils, is very great. All who have visited this fine tract of coun- 
 try admire the beauty of the landscape which nature has here painted in primeval 
 freshness. So delightful a region was early selected by immigrants from New 
 England, New- York, and North Carolina: more than 200 families had settled them- 
 selves here before it was surveyed. It now constitutes several populous counties, 
 inhabited by thriving farmers. 
 
 " Arcadian vales, with vine-hung bowers, 
 
 And grassy nooks, 'neath beechen shade, 
 Where dance the never-resting hours, 
 
 To music of the bright cascade ; 
 Skies softly beautiful, and blue. 
 
 As Italy's, with stars as bright; 
 Flowers rich as morning's sun-rise hue, 
 
 And gorgeous as the gemm'd mid-night. 
 Land of the West ! green Forest-Land, 
 Thus hath Creation's bounteous hand 
 Upon thine ample tosoni flung 
 Charms such as were her gift when the gray world was young!" 
 
 The prairies frequently contain fine groves of timber, some of which, from their 
 appearance, have received the names of Elk-heart Grove, Buffalo-heart Grove, &c. 
 These groves are generally elevated above the surrounding prairie, and are most 
 advantageous situations for settlement. The inhabitants chiefly reside on the mar- 
 
104 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 gins of the timber, extending their plantations to any distance into the prairie. 
 Besides the groves above-mentioned, there are Irish Grove, Spring Island Grove, 
 Sugar Grove, &-c. 
 
 Elk-heart Grove lies north of Sangamon river, and about 20 miles north-east 
 from Springfield, in eighteen north, three west. It is a beautiful grove of timber, 
 contaijiing 600 or 700 acres, on the right hand of the great road leading to Peoria, 
 Ottawa, and Chicago. The timber is oak, walnut, linden, hickory, sugar-tree, etc. 
 The prairie adjoining is rich soil, rather wet, and furnishes fine summer and winter 
 range for cattle. Several families are settled here. 
 
 Buffalo-heart Grove lies 14 miles north-east from Springfield, and six miles south- 
 easterly from Elk-heart Grove, which it resembles. It is about three miles long, 
 and one mile and a half wide, containing about four sections of timber, and 25 or 
 30 families. The rushes, which cover the prairies around, furnish winter food for 
 cattle. 
 
 Irish Grove is on the road from Springfield to Peoria, 18 miles from the former 
 place. It is two miles from Salt creek, and is three miles long, and one mile and 
 a half wide, and contains a settlement of about 50 families. The land is good, 
 and the timber is chiefly oak of various kinds. 
 
 Spring Island Grove is from 14 to 20 miles west of Springfield, on the road to 
 Jacksonville. It lies at the head of Spring creek, and is an excellent timbered 
 tract, surrounded with rich prairie, from six to ten miles long, and from two to 
 three miles wide, and has a flourishing settlement. Many excellent spruigs are 
 found in this tract of country. 
 
 Sugar Grove, in the north part of the county, is about 20 miles north of Spring- 
 field. It is a fine tract of timber surrounded with fertile prairie, about three miles 
 long, and one mile wide, with a respectable settlement. 
 
 On the head-waters of Richland creek is a fine settlement of 50 or 60 families, 
 in township seventeen north, seven west, and fourteen miles north-west from 
 Springfield. The land is high, dry, undulating, and rich. Here is an excellent 
 flouring-mill by ox-power, and a carding machine and clothier's works, for dressing 
 cloth. 
 
 The products of Sangamon county are beef, cattle, pork, wheat, flour, corn-meal, 
 butter, cheese, &c. ; and soon will include almost every article of a rich agricul- 
 tural country. The principal part of the surplus produce is sent from Beardstown ; 
 but much of its imports will be received, and its exports sent off by its own river, 
 which has already been navigated by steam to the vicinity of Springfield, and when 
 some of its obstructions are removed, will afford convenient navigation for steam- 
 boats of the smaller class. 
 
 The county seat of Sangamon is Springfield, one of the most thriving towns in 
 Illinois, and recently selected by the legislature as the permanent capital of the 
 state after the year 1840. The other towns are, Huron, Petersburg, New Salem, 
 Salisbury, Athens, Sangamon, Berlin, Auburn, Edinburg, Rochester, Mechanics- 
 burg, George Town, Mount Pulaski, and Postville. Of these, after Springfield, 
 the most important are Athens and Petersburg: the former is about fifteen miles 
 west of north from Springfield, and two from the Sangamon river; it contains seve- 
 ral stores, one steam-mill tor sawing and flouring, and about 75 families. Peters- 
 burg, situated on a beautiful dry prairie bottom on the west bank of the Sangamon 
 river, and 22 miles from Springfield, contains seven stores and one grocery, a steam, 
 saw, and grist mill, and 150 inhabitants. The river is navigable to this point for 
 steamboats of 100 tons burthen, two such having already been navigated thus far. 
 The natural advantages of Petersburg will no doubt ma«ke it in time a town of im- 
 portance, and the place of export and import for Sangamon county. The first sale 
 of lots took place in 1835, and these have in many cases been resold at an advance 
 of from 100 to 600 per cent. New Salem, on the west side of the Sangamon, and 
 19 or 20 miles north-west from Springfield, has three or four stores, a grist and 
 saw mill, and about 30 families. 
 
 It is proposed to erect a new county from the north-western part of Sangamon. 
 This will contain about 15 full townships, or 540 square miles of surface, and will 
 include within its boundaries 60 miles of tlie lower part of Sangamon river, with 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 105 
 
 a part of Salt creek. It will be bounded north by Tazewell, south by part of San- 
 gamon, and on tiie nortli-west by the nortli-east corner of Schuyler and the extreme 
 south-east corner of Fulton county: from the two last it will beseparated by the 
 Illinois river. Its towns will be Huron, Petersburg, New Salem, and Athens, be- 
 fore noticed. No legislative action has yet taken place in relation to the above ; 
 but the great extent and rapidly increasing population of Sangamon county, will, 
 no doubt, render a division of its territory necessary in a short time, 
 
 SCHUYLER County lies west of the Illinois river, which forms its eastern 
 boundary, and separates it from Morgan and Cass counties ; on the north are Fulton 
 and jVl'Donough, on the south and on the west, Adams and Hancock counties. It 
 extends from north to south liO miles, and from east to west from 36 to 18 ; con- 
 taining about 830 square miles. It is watered by the Illinois river, and by Crook- 
 ed, M'Kee's, and Sugar creeks. Along the Illinois river is a considerable amount 
 of land inundated at liigh floods, generally heavily timbered, which is the case 
 with more than one-half the county. The middle and northern portions are divi- 
 ded into timber and prairie of an excellent quality. Along Crooked creek is an 
 extensive body of tine timber. Sugar creek also furnishes another body of timber, 
 eight or ten miles wide. Rich mines of iron ore have lately been discovered on 
 Crooked creek. The towns in this county are Rushville, Mount Sterling, Erie, 
 La Grange, Brooklyn, and Schuyler. 
 
 The county seat is Rushville, which is situated on a beautiful prairie, ten miles 
 from the Illinois river, and about north-west from Beardstown. 
 
 Mount Sterling, 12 miles from the Illinois and 17 south-west from Rushville, is 
 a thriving village of about 50 houses. It was laid off in the fall of 1833, but did 
 not improve much until 1836: it now contains five stores, 3 taverns, a church, 
 a sciiool-house, a number of mechanics, and about 200 inhabitants. Coal of a good 
 quality is found within one mile of the town. 
 
 SHELB Y County extends 36 miles from east to west, and 30 from north to 
 south, containing 1080 square miles ; and lies north of Fayette and Effingham 
 counties, south of Macon, east of Coles, and west of Montgomery and Sangamon 
 counties. The population is now estimated at 6,5t)0. It is watered by the Kas- 
 kaskia and its branches, also by the head streams of the south fork of the Sanga- 
 mon and Little Wabash rivers. This county lias a large amount of excellent land, 
 both timber and prairie, with a good soil, and the surface moderately undulating. 
 
 Shelbyville, the County Town, is situated near the centre of the county, on an 
 elevated site, on the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, 40 miles north-east of 
 Vandalia, and about 60 south-east of Springfield. It contains several stores and 
 groceries, and a population of about 250 inhabitants. The settlements around it 
 are extensive, and the country fertile and productive. 
 
 ST. CLAIR County is bounded north by Madison county, south by Randolph 
 and Monroe, east by Clinton and Washington, and west by Monroe county and the 
 Mississippi river. It is from 12 to 30 miles in length and the same in breadth, and 
 contains an area of about 684 square miles. This county is watered by the Kas- 
 kaskia river, and Silver, Richland, and Cahokia creeks ; on the west, it is washed 
 by the Mississippi. The surface is generally undulating, and sometimes hilly. The 
 soil is various; much of it is fii>t-rate, and is proportionably divided into timber, 
 prairie, and barrens. On the banks of the Mississippi, the low and fertile alluvion 
 of the American Bottom extends througii the county, parallel to the river. Ex- 
 tensive coal-banks exist along the bluffs, from which St. Louis is partially supplied 
 with fuel. This is tlie oldest county in the state, and was formed by the legisla- 
 ture of the North- Western territory in 1704: it then included all the settlements 
 on the eastern side of the Mississippi. Its inhabitants in 183.^ amounted to 9055. 
 
 Looking-Glass Prairie is a large, rich, beautiful, and undulating tract, lying be- 
 tween Silver and Sugar creeks, and on the eastern border of the county. It com- 
 mences near the base line, in range six west, and extends northward about twenty 
 miles into Madison county, and is from six to ten miles in width. Few prairies in 
 
106 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 the state present more eligible situations for farms than this. Extensive settle- 
 ments are on its borders, and project into its interior. 
 
 Ogle's Prairie, live miles north of Belleville, is about five miles long, and from 
 one to two miles wide, surrounded, and partly covered, with a flourishing settle- 
 ment and fine farms. It is a ricli, rolling, and fertile tract. 
 
 Union Grove is on the borders of Look ing-G lass Prairie, and on the east side of 
 Silver creek. The land is excellent, and tlie settlement extensive. It is some- 
 times called, Padfield's Settlement. 
 
 Belleville, the seat of justice, is a neat and thriving village, situated on elevated 
 ground, 13 miles south-east from St. Louis. The other towns are, Lebanon, Illi- 
 nois Town, Cahokia, and Prairie du Pont. 
 
 STEPHENSON County extends along the northern boundary of the state, 
 and is in length from east to west 27, and from north to south 21 miles in extent; 
 containing an area of .'JGT square miles. It was formed in 1837 from Jo Daviess 
 and Winnebago counties, and is bounded nortli by Wisconsin Territory, south by 
 Jo Daviess and Ogle, east by Winnebago, and west by Jo Daviess county. It is 
 traversed by the Pekatonica (a fine navigable water, of about 80 yards in width) 
 and its branches on the north, and the heads of Plum creek and other small streams 
 in the south-west. Tiie surface of the county is mostly a rich and undulating prai- 
 rie, witli tracts of hilly barrens and oak openings. Tlie population is estimated at 
 ti-om 400 to 500, and is rapidly increasing. Its county seat is not yet established.. 
 
 TAZEWELL County is bounded on the north by Putnam, south by Sangamon, 
 east by M'Lean, and west by Peoria and Fulton counties, from which it is sepa- 
 rated by tiie Illinois river. Its extent from north to soutii is 48 miles; from east 
 to west, on the southern boundary, 45, and on the northern, 10 miles. Area in 
 square miles, about 1220, Much of the soil is rich, with the surface undulating, 
 in which prairie land predominates. On the blufts of tlie Mackinaw and other 
 streams, the land is broken, and the timber mostly oak. Tazewell is watered on 
 the west by the Illinois river, and the creeks which flow into it; in the central and 
 northern parts of the county, by the Mackinaw river and its branches; and on the 
 south-east by Sugar creek, a tributary of the Sangamon river. 
 
 Tremont is the seat of justice, and is pleasantly situated in a beautiful prairie, 
 almost half-way between Pekin and Mackinaw, ten miles from the Illinois river, 
 and nearly in the centre of the county. It was laid ofl' in 18.T), and now contains 
 several stores, about 70 houses, and upwards of 300 inhabitants. The other towns 
 are Pekin, Wesley City, Havanna, Mackinaw, Dillon, Bloomingdale, Washington, 
 Little Detroit, and Hanover. 
 
 Mackinaw, formerly the seat of justice of the county, is situated about eight 
 miles east of Tremont. The situation is beautiful, and the scenery about the town 
 highly picturesque. Mackinaw river, half a mile distant, furnishes a permanent 
 and extensive water-power. The town contains about 100 inhabitants, and has five 
 stores. The advantages which Mackinaw possesses have attracted the attention 
 of speculators to this place, and large investments have been made in the town and 
 its vicinity. The excellent and well-settled country around, the eligibility of the 
 site, its important position on the great chain of internal improvements, — and, 
 above all, its valuable water-power, so much needed in this section of the state, — 
 must ultimately render this town a place of importance. 
 
 Havanna is on the Illinois, opposite the mouth of Spoon river. It has an eligible 
 situation on a high sand ridge, fitly feet above the highest floods of the river, and 
 is well situated to receive the trade of a pretty extensive country on both sides of 
 tlie Illinois, it being on the great thoroughfare from Indiana, by Danville and 
 Springfield, to the counties that lie to the west and north, 
 
 Washington is a handsome village in township twenty-six north, three west, and 
 14 miles north of Tremont, It is situated on the south side of Holland's Grove, on 
 the border of a delightful prairie, and contains five stores, two groceries, four phy- 
 sicians, various mechanics, a steam saw-mill, and about 300 inhabitants. 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 107 
 
 UyiOy Cnunty is situated in the southern part of the state, and is bounded 
 north by the counties of Jackson and Franklin, east by Johnson, south by Alexan- 
 der, and west by the Mississippi river. Its greatest length is '24 miles, and its 
 breadth IS; area, 396 square miles. This county is washed on the west by the 
 Mississippi river ; the interior is watered by Big Muddy river, Clear creek, and the 
 sources of Cash river. Much of tliis county is high rolling timber land — the soil 
 is mostly second and third rate, with some rich and fertile alluvial bottom. It was 
 formed from Johnson in 1818, and in 1835 contained 4156 inhabitants. 
 
 The Grand Tower is a perpendicular sand rock, rising from the bed of the Mis- 
 sissippi in the north-west corner of the county, and a short distance above the 
 mouth of the Big Muddy river. The top is level, seventy or eighty feet high, and 
 supfiorts a stratum of soil on which are found a few stunted cedars and shrubs. 
 Here are indications that a barrier of rock once extended across the Mississippi, 
 and formed a grand cataract. The bed of the river, at a low stage of water, still 
 exhibits a cham of sunken rocks. The "Devil's Oven," "Tea Table," "Back 
 Bone," &c., are names given by the boatmen of the Mississippi to the singularly 
 formed, abrupt, and romantic precipices that line the banks of that river in the 
 vicinity of the Grand Tower. 
 
 Evans's Settlement is on the north side, and near the head of Cash river, and on 
 the eastern border of the county. It has about forty families. Ridge Settlement 
 lies on the road to Brownsville, and extends into Jackson county. It is a high, 
 hilly, timbered tract of good land, well watered, and has from one hundred to one 
 hundred and fitly families. Stokes's Settlement, in the eastern part of the county, 
 near the head, and on the south side of Cash river, contains one hundred families. 
 The surface of the land is rolling, and the soil good. 
 
 Jonesborough, the scat of justice, is situated in a high, rolling tract of country, 
 nine miles from the Mississippi river. The surrounding country is undulatino- and 
 healthful, containing several good settlements. It contains the county buildino-s, 
 several stores, &.C., and about one hundred and twenty inhabitants. 
 
 VERMILLION Cotmty lies in the eastern part of the state, and adjoining the 
 neighbouring state of Indiana. It is situated north of Edgar, south of Iroquois, 
 east of Champaign county, and west of the state of Indiana. Its extent from north 
 to south is 42 miles, and from east to west "24 ; area, 1008 square miles. The Bis 
 Vermillion river, with its North, Middle and Saline Forks, and Little Vermillion 
 river, water the county. There are large bodies of excellent timber along the 
 streams, and rich prairies between them, the surface of which is undulating and 
 dry, and the soil rich, deep, and calcareous. Large amounts of the agricultural 
 produce common to Illinois are exported to the towns on the Wabash, and thence 
 to New-Orleans. Salt, manufactured at the salt-works on the Saline fork of Big 
 Vermillion, and six miles west of Danville, is also exported to the adjacent districts. 
 
 This county was organized in IS'26, and in 1835 numbered 8103 inhabitants. 
 Between this county and Iroquois on the east, and M'Lean on the west, and north 
 of Champaign, extends a strip of territory mostly 18 miles wide and 48 in length, 
 and comprising an area of 780 square miles, which has not yet received any dis- 
 tinctive appellation, but is at present attached to Vermillion county: it is nearly 
 all prairie, some of it wet and marshy, containing the ponds and swamps giving 
 rise to the Vermillion river of Illinois, the north fork of Sangamon, the middle fork 
 of Saline river, and others. It is but thinly settled, and will probably remain so for 
 some time to come. 
 
 Danville, the county seat of Vermillion, is situated on the lefl bank of the Big 
 Vermillion river, on a dry, sandy, and elevated surface, surrounded with heavy tim- 
 ber on the east, north, and west, but open to the prairie on the south. The coun- 
 try around is populous, and the land rich. It contains a number of stores and gro- 
 ceries, several professional men, various mechanics, and the land-office for the 
 Danville Land District; together with Methodist, Baptist, and Presbyterian 
 churches, and aUnit 350 inhabitants. It is a thriving town, and, on the completion 
 of the Wabash and Mississippi rail-road, which will pass through it, will no doubt 
 receive a jrfat accession of business and population. 
 
108 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 The other towns in Vermillion county are all small, having been but lately 
 settled : they are George Town, Chillicothe, Greenville, Shepherds Town, and 
 Salem. 
 
 WABASH County, the smallest in Illinois, is situated in the south-eastern sec- 
 tion of the state, on the Wabash river. It was formed from Edwards in 1824, and 
 lies south of Lawrence, east of Edwards county, and west of tlie state of Indiana. 
 Its greatest length is about 22 miles, and breadth from 10 to 18 miles; area, about 
 180 square miles. TiiJs county is watered by the Wabash river on its eastern, 
 and Bon Pas creek on its western border, and several small creeks in the central 
 parts. It contains a considerable auiount of good land, both timber and prairie, 
 and a full proportion of industrious and thriving farmers. The inhabitants, in 1835, 
 amounted to 3010. 
 
 Long Prairie settlement is 13 miles north-west from Mount Carmel. The land 
 is undulating, and the soil second-rate. The population of the settlement amounts 
 to about 25 or 30 families. Tiie Timbered Settlement includes the north-east 
 quarter of the county, and is ten miles from Mount Carmel. It contains 60 or 70 
 families. The timber is excellent. 
 
 The county seat. Mount Carmel, is situated on the west bank of the Wabash 
 river, a short distance below tiie Grand Rapids, and nearly opposite to the mouths 
 of the White and Patoka rivers of Indiana. It is 109 miles south-west from Van- 
 dalia, and 716 from Washington City. 
 
 Selma, adjoining Mount Carmel, is a new town, lately laid out. A number of 
 lots have been sold, and some improvements have taken place. 
 
 Warren County is in the western part of the Military Bounty Tract. It lies 
 on the Mississippi river, north of Hancock and M'Donongh counties, south of Mer- 
 cer, east of Ivnox and Schuyler, west of Des Moines and Louisa counties, Wiscon- 
 sin Territory. It is from 36 to 26 miles in extent from east to west, and 30 from 
 north to south ; and contains about 900 square miles. 
 
 This county was formed from Pike in 1825, and in 1835 contained 2623 inhabit- 
 ants. It has a large amount of first-rate land, both prairie and timbered : the latter 
 is supposed to comprise about one-fitth of the whole, and is generally well distrib- 
 uted. The most extensive forests are found on tlie Mississippi, and on Henderson 
 river; but timber exists more or less on all the streams in tlie county. Much of 
 the bottom-land that lies on the Mississippi is low, subject to inundation, and has a 
 series of sand ridges back of it, with bold and pointed bluifs further in the rear. 
 
 The streams which water the interior of the county are Henderson river and 
 its branches, also Ellison, Honey, and Camp creeks, which flow into the Mississippi, 
 and the South and Cedar forks of Spoon river. Limestone exists in great abund- 
 ance, and extensive beds of good stone-coal have been found in the eastern parts 
 of the county. About five miles north-west from Monmouth, there has been dis- 
 covered, and worked to some extent, a quarry of freestone, which is susceptible 
 of a handsome polish, and answers well for the sills of doors and windows, tomb- 
 stones, &c. Two or three grindstone quarries have been discovered, and are now 
 all successfiilly worked. 
 
 Monmouth, the seat of justice, is situated in the prairie, two and a half miles 
 south of the Cedar fork of Henderson's river. It was laid oft' in 1831, but advanced 
 so slowly that until 1835 only seven buildings had been erected. It now contains 
 80 houses, and about 400 inhabitants. The land in the vicinity is very fertile, and 
 produces abundantly all the staples of this region. 
 
 The other towns are Oquawka or Yellow Banks, Benton, and Shokokon, all on 
 the Mississippi; Little York, Savannah, Bowling Green, Greenfield, Geneva, New 
 Lancaster, and Olean. 
 
 Oquawka, or Yellow Banks, is a town recently settled. It is situated on the 
 Mississippi river, about midway between the Des Moines and Rock Island Rapids, 
 and is the principal depot for freight between those points. The town is laid out 
 in two sections, on an extensive scale. The soil is sandy ; and the surface, gently 
 undulating, is sparsely covered with a stinted growth of oaks, extending to the 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 109 
 
 bluft', two miles back. Henderson river, a fine stream for milling- purposes, passes 
 along' the loot of these, and is crossed by a neat and substantial bridge. There are 
 two large ware-houses in the town, one store, one grocery, two taverns, and several 
 dwelling-houses. Tiiere is a good flouring and saw-mill about two miles distant; 
 and a ssteain-miU is about to be erected. 
 
 The site of this place was sold by the original to the present proprietor for 200 
 j dollars, by whom a tburtli part of it was transterred last autumn to an enterprizing 
 '. land dealer tor '2'1,0U0 dollars, who has since realized from tiie sale of individual 
 i lots the full amount paid tor the whole, and yet has parted with only a small part 
 of his purchase. The lots sold a year ago have in many cases changed hands at 
 an advance of one hundred per cent. The proprietors of the town purpose making 
 a rail-road from hence to Peoria, on the Illinois river. By far the greater portion 
 of this distance is over a nearly level prairie, admitting of the contemplated con- 
 struction at a very moderate expense. 
 
 WASHINGTON County is situated betw^een Clinton county on the north, 
 Perry and Randolph on the south, Jefferson on the east, and St, Clair on the west. 
 It forms a parallelogram of 30 miles in length and 18 in breadth, with an area of 
 560 square miles. This county is watered by the Kaskaskia river (which traverses 
 its extreme north-west quarter), and its tributaries Crooked, Elkhorn, and Mud 
 creeks; also by Beaucoup and Muddy creeks, which flow into Big Muddy river. 
 The banks of all these streams are generally well timbered; but in the interior 
 the prairies are extensive, and sometimes sterile. The surface is generally level, 
 and the soil mostly second-rate. Some of the southern points of the Grand Prairie 
 pass through the north-east corner of the county. It was organized in 1818, and 
 in 1835 contained 3292 inhabitants. 
 
 Nashville, the seat of justice, is a pleasant village, 48 miles nearly south-east 
 from St. Louis, and on the main road to Shawneetown. It is situated on a beautiful 
 and elevated prairie, near the head of Little Crooked creek, two and a half miles 
 Boutii-east from the centre of the county. It has several stores and mechanics, a 
 steam-mill, and a population of from 100 to 120. 
 
 The Grand Point settlement is on a creek about six miles north-east from Nash- 
 ville, and contains about 20 families. The creek runs north, and enters Crooked 
 creek. 
 
 WAYNE County forms a square of 24 miles each way, and contains an area 
 of 576 square miles. On the north it is bounded by Clay county, south by Hamil- 
 ton and White, east by Edwards, and west by Jefferson and Marion. The streams 
 wiiich water this county are Elm creek and Skillet Fork, both tributaries of the 
 Little Wabash river. It is handsomely interspersed with woodland and prairie, 
 and contains several saline springs. The soil is mostly second-rate. This county 
 was organized from Edwards in 1819, and contained in 1835 a population of 2939 
 individuals. 
 
 Hargrave's Settlement is on the Prairie adjoining Fairfield, which is about seven 
 miles long and two wide; rolling, and thin soil. Population about 100 families. 
 
 Herrington's Settlement, about eleven miles north-west from Fairfield, is on 
 Herrington's Prairie, which is eight miles long and from two to four miles wide ; 
 surface rolling, soil second-rate ; population about .50 families. 
 
 Hickory Hill Settlement is 18 miles west from Fairfield, and on the west side 
 of the Skillet Fork. The land is a mixture of timber and prairie, soil second qual- 
 ity, and a population of about 50 families. 
 
 Indian Prairie lies ten miles north-westerly from Fairfield; surface level, soil 
 of an inferior quality, with a scattering settlement of 15 or 20 families. 
 
 Martin's Creek Settlement is situated on a creek of the same name, five miles 
 north of Fairfield. The settlement consists of 50 or 60 families. The creek is a 
 branch of Elm river. 
 
 Fairfield, the seat of justice of Wayne county, is on the border of Hargrave's 
 Prairie, 69 miles south-east from Vandalia, and 36 west from Mount Carmel. It 
 contains several stores, a handsome court-house, and about 100 inhabitants. 
 
 -w 
 
no SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 WHITE County is situated in the south-eastern part of the state. It extends 
 from east to west from 27 to 22 miles, and from north to south 23^ miles ; con- 
 taining a superficies of about 476 square miles. It is bounded norlli by Edwards 
 and Wayne counties, south by Gallatin, east by the Wabash river, which separates 
 it from tlie state of Indiana, and west by Hamilton county. The Wabash river 
 washes the eastern boundary of this county, and the interior is watered by the Lit- 
 tle Wabash and its tributaries. The banks of all these are generally well timber- 
 ed ; in the interior are many prairies, most of which are now well cultivated. A 
 large amount of agricultural produce is animally exported from this and the ad- 
 joining counties to the southern parts of the Mississippi valley. White county 
 was organized from Gallatin in 1815, and in 1835 contained 6489 inhabitants. 
 
 In the north-eastern part of the county is a bayou called Fox River that puts out 
 from the Big Wabash, runs a i'ew miles, and again enters that river. The late 
 Morris Birkbeck, Esq., known as one of the English emigrants to Edwards county, 
 and author oi' '' Letters from Illinois,''^ was unfortunately drowned in attempting to 
 swim this stream on horseback. 
 
 The county seat, Carmi, is situated nearly in the centre of the county, on the 
 west bank of the Little Wabash river, about 20 miles above its mouth, and 80 miles 
 south-east from Vandalia. It is surrounded by land of a good quality, and is a 
 flourishing village, containing several stores, &-c., a neat court-house, and about 
 250 inhabitants. 
 
 WHITESIDE County was formed from Jo Daviess in 1836, and lies south of 
 that county, north of Henry, west of Ogle, and east of Rock Island county and the 
 Mississippi river. It extends from north to south 24 miles, and from east to west 
 from 27 to 3o miles; containing an area of about 712 square miles. It is watered 
 by Rock river, which passes tlirough it from north-east to south-west. Little Rock 
 river. Wood creek, &c. It has some tracts of heavy timber along Rock river and 
 Little Rock, besides groves, copses, and bushy swamps. Some of its prairie land 
 is flat, while other portions are beautifully undulating and rich. 
 
 One mile below Albany, the Marais de Ogee, or the Meridosia, puts into the 
 Mississippi, or rather, as is the tiict at present, the Mississippi runs through the 
 Meridosia into Rock river. The Meridosia is a portion of bottom-land, from five 
 rods to five miles in width, running from the Mississippi to Rock river in a direc- 
 tion nearly south, with a deep channel some part of the way. To the east of it, 
 the bluff is covered with beautiful groves. The country in the vicinity of Albany, 
 and along Rock river, is well known as being unsurpassed. Indeed, the vvhole 
 country, except the swamps, is destined to support a dense population. Two years 
 since, it was not known, and there were but a i'ew individuals within its present 
 boundary: now, it is estimated to contain a population of 1500 persons, a large 
 majority of whom have been here but a few months. 
 
 Tlie towns, or rather villages, in this county, have been only recently laid off, 
 and are hardly yet settled. They are, Illinois City on Little Rock river, and Van 
 Buren and Albany, both on the Mississippi. Albany was laid out last October, on 
 the Great Eastern Bend of the Mississippi, thirty-five miles from Stephenson, and 
 sixty from Galena. The town site, and the country in the immediate vicinity, are 
 highly picturesque and beautiful, in some parts quite romantic. The landing is 
 good, the water increasing in depth from the shore as half to one, until it is from 
 twelve to twenty-five feet. From the river the ground rises at an angle of some 
 twenty to thirty degrees, until it reaches the height of the surrounding country. 
 One hundred and thirty-tiiree blocks of lots have been laid off. Thirteen streets, 
 in width from 66 to 1()0 feet, run at nearly right angles from the river. Liberal 
 reserves are made for public benefit, tor churches, and schools. There are now 
 built and building some fifteen dweliing-houses, stores, &c., and twice that num- 
 ber under contract. A steam saw-mill, now erecting, will soon be completed, 
 which will much facilitate building. 
 
 WILL County is situated in the north-eastern part of the state, and is bounded 
 north by Cook, south by Iroquois, and west by La Salle county ; on the east it has 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. Ill 
 
 Lake and Newton counties, Indiana, from which it is separated by the eastern 
 boundary of the state. It is in length from north to south on the western side 42, 
 on the east 30 miles, and varies in breadth from east to west from 12 to 38 miles; 
 and containing an area of 1320 square miles. It was formed in 1836, and is esti- 
 mated to contain 3oUU inhabitants. 
 
 The streams which water this county are the Kankakee and its tributaries, also 
 the Des Plaines and Du Page, together with some branches of the Calumet river 
 and Mason creek. Much of the land is of first-rate quality : there are prairies of 
 considerable extent, and a good deal of timber in many parts, lying chiefly in 
 groves, and along the banks of the rivers and creeks. The Illinois and Michigan 
 canal will pass througli the county in a south-westerly direction along the valley 
 of, and parallel to, the Des Plaines river. 
 
 In the north-west part of the county, on the west bank of the Des Plaines river, 
 and about 16 miles above its junction with the Kankakee, is Mount Joliet. It is 
 in the midst of a large plain, covered in summer with short, thin grass, and which 
 bears striking marks of having been once inundated. Its size is variously esti- 
 mated. Beck, in his Gazetteer, states, "It is three or four hundred yards in length, 
 north and south, and two or three hundred in breadth, east and west, and is in the 
 form of a pyramid." Several gentlemen, who have passed this mound without 
 stopping particularly to measure it, have estimated its length one mile, its breadth, 
 at the base, half a mile, and its height one hundred and fifty feet. It appears to 
 be an immense pile of sand and pebbles, similar to the sand ridges along the Illinois 
 river. This name was given by the companions of Joliet, who visited this country 
 in 1673. 
 
 About two miles below Mount Joliet, and on the same side of the river, there is 
 a similar elevation called Mount Flathead. It extends near two miles in length; 
 the north end is rounded — the south end irregularly shaped — its contents sand, 
 gravel, and coarse pebbles, worn smooth by water friction. 
 
 The towns in Will county are all of recent origin, and mostly small : they are, 
 Juliet, the seat of justice, Plainfield, Lockport, Winchester, Lancaster, &c. 
 
 Plainfield is in the north-west part of the county, about nine miles from Juliet, 
 and on the direct mail road, nearly half-way between Chicago and Ottawa. It is 
 beautifully situated on the east side of the Du Page river, on a fine and undulating 
 prairie, and contains about 400 inhabitants. It has two stores, two taverns, several 
 mechanical trades, a Methodist and a Baptist congngation. 
 
 Lockport is a town site lately laid off on the Illinois and Michigan canal, at the 
 termination of the lake level, thirty-four and a half miles from Chicago. Here 
 will be two locks established, each often feet lift, which will give twenty feet fall 
 for the immense quantity of surplus water that can be brought from Lake Michi- 
 gan, equal to 10,000 cubic feet every minute, after supplying the canal, and 
 making full allowance for leakage, evaporation, &c., enough to drive 234 pairs of 
 millstones, four and a half feet diameter. A large town, and extensive manufac- 
 turing operations, will doubtless arise here, as soon as the canal is completed. 
 Near this place, the Des Plaines river has fifteen feet fall. Adjoining to Lockport, 
 the town of East Lockport has been lately laid off. 
 
 Winchester is on the right bank of t!ie Kankakee river, about nine miles from 
 its mouth, and eighteen nearly south from Juliet. It is at the junction of Fork 
 creek with the Kankakee, and is a lately settled town, containing only a few 
 houses, a store, a tavern, two saw-mills, &c. Yankee Settlement is in the north- 
 east part of the county, from six to eight miles north-east from Juliet. It is in a 
 rich undulating prairie, and contains a considerable population of thriving and 
 industrious New England farmers. Emmettsburg is on the left bank of the Des 
 Plaines river, and on the line of the Illinois and Michigan canal, a few miles north 
 of Juliet. It is a settlement inhabited by Irish and German Roman Catholics. 
 
 WINNEBAGO County is one of the most northern counties of Illinois, lying 
 immediately south of the state line. It is bounded north by Rock and Iowa coun- 
 ties of Wisconsin Territory, south by Ogle, east by Boone, and west by Stephen- 
 son county. It extends from east to west 24, and from north to south 21 miles. 
 
112 SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 
 
 containing an area of 504 square miles. It was formed from Jo Daviess and the 
 attached portion of La Salle county, in January 1836; from which parts of Ste- 
 phenson and Boone counties have since been detached. 
 
 The county extends on both sides of Rock river, which traverses it nearly from 
 north to south, and furnishes an immense water-power, especially at the rapids, 
 where the town of Rockford, or Midway, is laid off: here there are mills, store- 
 houses, and dwellings erecting. The other streams are the Pekatonica or the 
 Peekatonokee and its branches, which also abound in good mill-seats. The lands 
 o-ranted to the Polish emigrants by Congress are situated in this county. There 
 is much excellent land here: the timber is in groves and detached portions, and 
 the prairies undulating and abundantly rich. This, in common with all the north- 
 ern counties, is filling up rapidly with an industrious and enterprizing population. 
 The inhabitants of Winnebago county are estimated at from 1200 to 1-500. 
 
 Its seat of justice is not yet established, but will probably be fixed at the town 
 of Winnebago, just laid out. This town is on the west bank of Rock River, on a 
 beautiful, high, and dry prairie, about half-wny between Galena and Chicago. The 
 river is navigable to this place for steamboats, and a free ferry is established. Some 
 buildings are now in progress of erection. 
 
 NEW COUNTIES. 
 
 In addition to the foregoing counties, noticed in alphabetical order, provision was 
 conditionally made by law, at the last session of the state legislature, for the or- 
 ganization of several new counties, provided that, at an election to be held subse- 
 quently, a majority of the votes of the people belonging to the counties from which 
 they were detached should be given in favour of such formation. The proposed 
 new counties are Bureau, Coffee, De Kalb, and Michigan. 
 
 BUREAU County, to be formed from the northern part of Putnam county, will 
 be bounded north by Whiteside and Ogle, south by Putnam and Coffee, east by 
 La Salle, and west by Henry county. The streams which traverse this district 
 are the head branches of Spoon river, and Bureau and Little Bureau creeks: these 
 are all beautiful clear streams, and furnish excellent mill-seats. It contains fine 
 tracts of land, beautiful groves of timber, and rich, undulating, and dry prairies. 
 There are several considerable settlements in this region of country, inhabited by 
 industrious and thriving farmers. 
 
 The county seat will probably be at Princeton : this place is about ten miles 
 north-west from Hennepin, the seat of justice of Putnam county: it was located 
 by colonists from Northampton, Massachusetts, in 1833 ; contains a post-oflice of 
 the same name, and is in the heart of the Bureau Settlement, which is in a flour- 
 ishing condition, and surrounded by a considerable body of rich and fertile land. 
 
 COFFEE County will be formed from Putnam, Knox, and Henry counties, 
 chiefly from the former: it will be bounded north by Bureau and Henry, south by 
 Peoria, east by Putnam, and west by Henry county. This district consists chiefly 
 of beautiful rolling prairies, which contain a great amount of excellent land, with 
 much valuable timber, scattered in groves and along the banks of the larger 
 streams. It is watered by the main and western branches of the Spoon river, and 
 their tributaries. 
 
 The towns, which are both quite recent and small, are La Fayette and Wyo- 
 ming: the latter, situated on the east bank of Spoon river, will probably be the 
 seat of justice. It is about 35 miles north-north-west from Peoria, on the road 
 from that place to the mouth of Rock river. 
 
 DE KALB will contain the western part of Kane county. This tract is mostly 
 a fine undulating prairie country, with a rich soil, and but sparingly wooded. The 
 
SKETCHES OF ILLINOIS. 113 
 
 timber is chiefly in groves and scattered portions of oalf openings; resembling that 
 of the adjacent counties, of which oai<s of various kinds, sugar-maple, Walnut, 
 white and black, hickory and ash of different species, are the principal varieties. 
 The streams all furnish excellent mill-seats, and in some of them saw and flouring 
 mills are already built. They are Rock, Somonauk and Indian creeks, all branches 
 of Fox river, and the southern tributaries of Sycamore or Kishwaukee creek, 
 which runs into Rock river. Tlie county will be bounded by Boone on the north, 
 and La Salle on the south, Kane east, and Ogle west. 
 
 MICHIGAN County, to be formed from the western part of Cook, will be sit- 
 uated north of Will, south of M'Henry, east of Kane, and west of Cook counties. 
 The rivers which run through this district are the Des Planes and its branches on 
 the east side, and the Du Page on the west. It is a fine region of country, in 
 which the streams are perennial, and the soil rich and covered with luxuriant her- 
 bage. The surface is tolerably level, with large prairies, and the timber in groves 
 scattered through them and along the banks of the streams. 
 
 The towns in this district are small, and of recent formation: they are, Napiers- 
 ville, Warrenton, and Lyons. The first-named place is situated about 24 miles 
 west-south-west from Chicago, and contains about 250 inhabitants, four stores, a 
 saw and grist mill, and a school. The country around is dry, with an undulating 
 surface and rich soil. Warrenton is four miles north of Napiersville. Lyons is on 
 the Des Plaines river, about twelve miles north-west from Chicago : it contains a 
 tavern, saw-mill, and a few dwelling-houses. 
 
 - SKETCHES 
 
 OP 
 
 THE CITIES AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS 
 
 IN 
 
 THE STATE OF ILLINOIS, 
 
 The City of ALTON is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi river, two 
 miles above the Missouri, 18 miles below the Illinois river, and about 1200 from 
 New Orleans. This place was laid out in 1818, but it is only within the last three 
 or four years that public attention has been turned to it as an emporium of trade. 
 
 Up to the year 1832, it contained only two or three dozen houses and a steam- 
 mill : in that year the State Penitentiary was erected here. The population is 
 now estimated at 2500, and the number of houses is 300. Since the spirit of im- 
 provement began, it has met with nothing to retard it: but employment has been 
 given to every buildmg mecnanic that could be procured. A large proportion of 
 the buildings are of the most substantial kind, — massive stone ware-houses. Many 
 of the private residences are of finely wrought stone or brick, and highly orna- 
 mental, though the larger portion of both business and dwelling-houses are tempo- 
 rary frames of one story. The streets are generally 40 and 60 feet wide, and 
 State street (the principal one running at right angles from the river) is 80. The 
 rates of building are as high, probably, as in any part of the union; yet rents are 
 much higher in proportion ; every house bringing from 15 to 30 per cent, upon its 
 cost, including the price of the lot. 
 
 ~^ 10* "■ 
 
114 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 1 
 
 Tlie following enumeration will give some idea of the business of the place: 
 There are 20 wholesale stores, one of wliicii imports directly from Europe, besides 
 32 retail stores, some of which sell also at wholesale. The various branches of the 
 mechanic arts are also carried on, though tiic greater portion of the articles used 
 is brought from abroad. Tiiere are here eiglit attorneys, seven pliysicians, and 
 eiii-lit clergymen, attached to the Ibllovving denominations, viz : three Protestant 
 Methodist, two Presbyterian, one Baptist, one Episcopal, and one Episcopal Metho- 
 dist. These have a church for each denomination, some of which, m their appear- 
 ance, would do credit to the oldest towns in tlie west. There are tour hotels, and 
 two otiiers building; one of which, of stone, will be 60 feet by 175. J3esides these, 
 there are nine boarding-houses, all of which are crowded with sojourners, either 
 temporary or permanent. The public institutions are a bank (branch of the State 
 Bank of Illinois), insurance office, lyceum, masonic lodge, lodge of independent odd 
 lellovvs, and two schools. Tlie lyceum attracts the greater portion of the young 
 men of the town, who engage in the public discussion of questions, and hear lec- 
 tures from gentlemen of science, who are also its members. 
 
 There are two temperance societies, one on the total abstinence plan, which is 
 the most popular, and is dady becoming more so. There are four newspapers, viz: 
 the Alton Spectator, Alton Telegraph, Alton Observer, Temperance Herald. 
 
 The legislature of Illinois have memoririlized Congress repeatedly to have the 
 great national road, now constructing through Ohio, Indiana, and Illuiois, cross the 
 Mississippi at this place ; and sanguine hopes are entertained that the wishes of 
 Illinois in this particular will be duly regarded. 
 
 Building mechanics of all kinds are constantly wanted. The following wages 
 are paid : bricklayers, 2.50 to 3 dollars per day ; stone-masons, 2 to 2.50 ; labour- 
 ers, 1.50. Where the men are boarded by the employer, a deduction ot 50 cents 
 per day is made from these rates. Board at the hotels is 3 to 4 dollars per week, 
 without lodging; for lodging-, I to 1.50 additional: at the boarding-houses, 2.50 to 
 3, lodging included. Brick at the kiln sell for 7 to 9 dollars per 1000; pine boards, 
 25 to 40 per 1000, (they are brought from the Ohio river) ; wood tor fuel, $3 per 
 cord ; coal, 20 cents per bushel. The latter is obtained from the hills, one mile in 
 the rear of the town; and both wood and coal can be got for very little more than 
 the cost of cutting, digging, and hauling. The comparatively high price at which 
 both sell, will furnish another evidence of the high prices of labour, and assure 
 eastern labourers, who are working at this season of the year for 40 cents a day, 
 that here they may soon realize a little fortune. 
 
 This city is surrounded tor several miles in extent with one of the finest bodies 
 of timber in the state, from which vast quantities of lumber may be produced. 
 Bitiuninous coal exists in great abundance at only a short distance from the town. 
 Inexhaustible beds of limestone for building purposes, ami easily quarried, are with- 
 in its precincts. A species of freestone, easily dressed, and used lor inoiunnents 
 and architectural purposes, and that peculiar species of lime, used for water cement, 
 are found in great abundance in the vicinity. The corporate bounds extend two 
 miles along the river, and half a mile back. The city plat is laid out by the pro- 
 prietors upon a liberal scale. There are five squares reserved for public purposes; 
 and a large reservation is made on the river for a public landing and promenade. 
 
 The prices of lots in Alton depend upon their location. Best business stands 
 command 400 dollars a front foot; lots more retired, for private dwellings, from 
 100 to 50, and 25. Stores rent from 1500 to 400 ; dwelling-houses, from fiOO to 
 200. Some of the stores do a very large business, their transactions amounting to 
 half a million dollars a year: others sell to the amount of 200,000 dollars. Clerks 
 and professional men only are not wanted. Of all these, there seems to be no 
 scarcity in any part of the west. 
 
 Eight steamboats are owned here in whole or in part, and some of them are 
 heavily freighted at each departure with the exports of the town alone. These 
 exports must increase as the back country continues to fill up. To add to its re- 
 sources, two rail-roads will shortly be made, one leading to Springfield, 70 miles, 
 the stock of which has been subscribed ; the other leading to Mount Carmel, on the 
 Wabash, the stock of which has been taken in part. Land, five miles back of the 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 115 
 
 town, sells; at from 10 to 40 dollars per aero, according- to the improvements. At a 
 greater distance, it is much cheaper, and settling rapidly. The productions are 
 wheat, corn, beef, pork, horses, and cattle. Real estate has risen in Alton more 
 than 1000 per cent, within two years. The inhabitants are principally from New 
 York and New England ; and this may be said of all the business men, with two 
 or three exceptions. Next to these in number, are Virginians. The natural sur- 
 face of much of the town site of Alton is broken by bluffs and ravines; but the 
 enterprize of its citizens and the corporation is fast removing these inconveniences, 
 by grading down its hills, and filling up its ravines. A contract of 60,000 dollars 
 has recently been entered upon to construct a culvert over the Little Piasau creek 
 that passes through the centre of the town, over which will soon be built one of the 
 most capacious and. pleasant streets. Since its settlement, the citizens of Alton 
 have enjoyed as good health as those of any river town in the west. 
 
 The market is well supplied with provisions from the back country ; prices, those 
 of St. Louis. The meats and vegetables are excellent, and cultivated fruit is pret- 
 ty abundant The wild fruits are plums, crab-apples, persimmons, pawpaws, hick- 
 ory nuts, and pecons. Wild game is also abundant, viz: deer, pheasants, prairie 
 hens, partridges, with the various kinds of water-fowl. The fish are cat, perch, 
 and buffalo. 
 
 Such is a hasty view of Alton as it now is. Its rapid growth is an evidence of 
 what enterprize can effect in contending against Nature herself. Scarcely a town 
 site could have been selected on the Mississippi originally more unpromising in its 
 appearance; and yet in five years, probably, it will attract the admiration of every 
 beholder. Already the "little hills have fallen on every side ;" the valleys have 
 been raised; and within the time mentioned, the city will present to the spectator 
 from the river the idea of a vast amphitheatre, the streets ranging above each 
 other in exact uniformity, while from each mountain top in the distance will glitter 
 the abodes of weulth and independence. The foundations of its prosperity are laid 
 on the broad basis of public morals and Christian benevolence. Its churches are 
 its most prominent and costly edifices, and claim the tribute of praise from every 
 beholder. 
 
 ♦These temples of His grace, 
 How beautiful they sland ! 
 The honours of our native place. 
 And bulwarks of our land.' 
 
 No people cherish the sentiment conveyed in these lines more than do those of 
 Alton: not a town in the Union, of its population, has been so liberal in its contri- 
 butions to every measure of Christian benevolence. The amount subscribed the 
 present year probably exceeds 10,000 dollars; one item in which is the subscrip- 
 tion, by two gentlemen, of 1000 dollars each, to employ a temperance lecturer for 
 this portion of the state. In addition to this, one of the same gentlemen has given 
 10,000 dollars towards the erection and endowment of a female seminary at Mon- 
 ticello, five miles north of the town, to the superintendence of which a most ac- 
 complished lady has been called from the celebrated institute at Ipswich, Massa- 
 chusetts. 
 
 BEARDSTOWN, the seat of justice for Cass county, is situated on the east 
 bank of the Illinois, and about 90 miles from the mouth of the river. It is one of 
 the chief places of import and export on that stream, and is at the head of naviga- 
 tion for the largest class of New-Orleans steamboats. It is never overflowed, and 
 the landing is excellent. 
 
 The town, which was laid off in lft29, and then contained but one log cabin, has 
 now 200 dwelling-houses, frame and brick, and a population estimated at 1000. It 
 has thirteen stor<>s, eight groceries, one drug-shop, two tanneries, two forwarding 
 houses, two steam flouring-inills, one distillery, one brewery, and three pork estab- 
 lishments. Of master mechanics there are four house-carpenters, one cabinet 
 maker, two blacksmiths, one silversmith, three tailors, one baker, one turner, one 
 bricklayer, stonemason and plasterer, one wagon tnakor, one shoemaker, three 
 coopers, and one hirher. It has one church only, which is occupied by the Metho- 
 
116 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 dists, though there is sometimes Presbyterian worship in town. There is an 
 insurance company here. A fair proportion of the houses are two stories high, and 
 all, with three exceptions, are frame, mostly painted white ; — the exceptions are 
 those of brick. The streets are 80 and 60 feet wide. 
 
 The exports are considerable, and consist of corn, pork, hides, and whiskey. 
 Flour was exported a few years ago; but is now as high here as at New-Orleans, 
 all that can be made being required for home consumption. The chief article of 
 export is pork, of which, in the winter of 1835-6, 12,000 head were put up ; in the 
 succeeding winter (the last), 15,000. Two hundred were frequently slaughtered 
 in a day. Corn, about seven years ago, sold generally at 12^ cents per bushel ; 
 the price now is 30 cents. 
 
 The navigation of the river is obstructed by ice, from one to two and a half 
 months in winter. During the last season, the suspension continued the latter 
 period. The last boat left, Dec. 5th ; the first arrived, Feb. 21st. The departures 
 and arrivals of steamboats in the year 1836 amounted to 450. The prices of 
 freight from St. Louis and Alton vary from 25 to 75 cents per 100 lbs., according 
 to the state of navigation. 
 
 Of the inhabitants, the much greater portion are males. From its situation on 
 the Illinois river, and very nearly in the centre of the state, families collect here 
 in the winter and remain till the spring, when they scatter throughout the country. 
 As a winter residence it is very agreeable, the soil being sandy, and of course 
 never muddy; but in the summer and fall, tJie fever and ague prevails to some 
 extent. Since 1834, however, the health of the place has improved considerably. 
 The inhabitants are from all the states of the union. 
 
 Dwelling-houses, containing two rooms and a kitciien, rent for one hundred dol- 
 lars a year. The cost of building tliem is about $500. To this may be added 
 the cost of the lot, which is from 200 to 500 more. Lots fronting the river sell at 
 about 30 dollars per front foot; on Main street, from 18 to 20. 
 
 The view from the river is imposing, and the general appearance of the town 
 exceedingly attractive. The river bank, for two or three miles in length, and one 
 in width, is eight or ten feet above high-water mark. Beyond this is a narrow 
 slough, or sloo, which is about to be drained by an incorporated company; two and 
 a half miles further, commences a fine, rich, cultivated prairie, which extends five 
 miles to the bluff's. Some farms upon it have been sold at forty dollars per acre, 
 and sixty has been offered for others and refused. The price of improved farms 
 beyond the bluffs is from ten to twenty dollars per acre. 
 
 Beardstown is the terminating point of the contemplated Beardstown and Spring- 
 field rail-road, and the Beardstown and Sangamon canal. 
 
 BELLEVILLE is a flourishing town, and the seat of justice of St. Clair county. 
 It is situated on the east bank of Richland creek, four miles east of the bluffs which 
 bound the American Bottom, and 15 miles east of St. Louis, 71 miles south-west 
 from Vandalia, and 843 from Washington. It is surrounded with a rich and exten- 
 sive agricultural country, and a fine body of timber. It is in the centre of the Tur- 
 key Hill Settlement, which is one of the most flourishing in the state. 
 
 Belleville is a place of considerable business, and contams a number of stores and 
 groceries. The public buildings are, a handsome court-house of brick, finished in 
 a superior style, a brick jail, a clerk's office, a public hall which belongs to a 
 library company, and a framed Methodist house of worship. It has two select 
 schools; one for boarders, half a mile distant. 
 
 There are two large mercliant steam flouring-mills, with six pairs of stones, a 
 brewery, a steam distillery, a wool carding machine, eight carpenters, one cabinet 
 maker, five blacksmith's shops, one tinner's shop, two silversmiths, tl)ree wagon 
 makers, one turner and wheelwright, two shoemaker's shops, one millwright, two 
 coopers, two saddlers, two tailors, one bakery, one high school, one common school, 
 a Presbyterian, a Baptist, and a Methodist congregation, and about 700 inhabitants, 
 of whom about one hundred are Germans, twenty French, and the residue Ameri- 
 cans. There are three lawyers, four physicians, four resident ministers of the gos- 
 pel, and a printing-office, which issues the "St. Clair Gazette." 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 117 
 
 BLOOMINGTON, the seat of justice for M'Lean county, is situated on the 
 margin of a fine prairie, in the midst of a beautiful and fertile district. Tlie town 
 is on the north side of Bloominf;^ Grove, wiiich comprises a large and valuable tract 
 of timber, of all the varieties of the country desirable for building, consisting cliiefly 
 of lime, maple, ash, oak, and black and white walnut. 
 
 Bloomington has eight or ten stores, which do a general and extensive business, 
 three groceries, two taverns, two lawyers, three physicians, an academy for young 
 gentlemen, which is highly commended, and an institution tor the education of 
 young ladies; also two steam-mills, a Presbyterian and a Methodist meeting-house 
 and ministers, a number of various mechanics, and an intelligent population of 
 about 700. 
 
 This town is a point on the great central rail-road, &c. ; and, surrotinded as it is 
 by a most desirable farming country, must increase in importance with its age. 
 The tacilities for building furnished by the steam saw-mills situated in the town, 
 must be felt in the rapid growth of the place. It can scarcely be considered a com- 
 pliment to say of Bloomington, that it is among the most beautiful towns in Illinois. 
 
 CAHOKIA is a post-town in St. Clair county, three-fourths of a mile east of the 
 Mississippi river, and five miles south of St. Louis. It is one of the oldest settle- 
 ments in the state. The Caoquias, a considerable tribe of the Illinois, had, for a 
 long time previous to the discovery of the Mississippi, made it a resting place, pro- 
 bably on account of the game with which the river and the ponds in the vicinity 
 abounded. We have no distinct account of the first settlement of this place by the 
 French; but it is probable that it occurred shortly after La Salle descended the 
 Mississippi in 16S3. Pleased as some of his followers were with the apparent ease 
 and happiness which the savages enjoyed, it is probable that they chose rather to 
 remain among them, than return to their own country. Instances of tliis kind are 
 frequently mentioned by Tonti and Hennepin; and as the object of the adventurous 
 La Salle was to settle and civilize the country, their choice seldom met with oppo- 
 sition. Father Charlevoix, who visited this place in 1721, observes: — "I was 
 astonished that they had pitched upon so inconvenient a situation (being so far from 
 the river), especially as they had so many better places in their choice; but I was 
 told the Mississippi washed the foot of that village when it was built; that in three 
 years it has lost half a league of its breadth, and that they were thinking of seek- 
 ing out another habitation." — The Indians gradually abandoned Cahokia, as the 
 French settlers increased : they were, however, always on the most friendly terms 
 with them. 
 
 In 1766, Cahokia contained forty families ; and at the commencement of the 
 revolution, their number had increased to about fifty, which is about their present 
 number. The majority of the houses are built of pickets, one story high: they 
 generally have piazzas on every side, and, being whitewashed on the outside, have 
 a lively appearance. Here is also a Roman Catholic chapel, in which service is 
 regularly performed. The inhabitants are principally French. Tiiese preserve 
 all their ancient manners and customs; with few exceptions, they are poor, indo- 
 lent, and illiterate. The utmost extent of their industry is to raise a few acres of 
 corn, and procure a few loads of prairie hay. 
 
 By an act of Congress passed in 1788, 400 acres of land adjoining the village 
 was granted to each family; and by a subsequent act, the lands used by the inha- 
 bitants of Cahokia and Prairie du Pont in common, were appropriated to the use 
 of said inhabitants, until otherwise directed by law. 
 
 B^th the Spanish and French governments, in forming settlements on tlie Mis- 
 sissippi, had special regard to convenience of social intercourse, and protection 
 from the Indians. All their settlements were required to be in the form of vil- 
 lages or towns ; and lots of a convenient size for a door-yard, garden, and stable- 
 yard, were provided for each fimily. To each village were granted two tracts of 
 land at'convenient distances, for "common fields," and "commons." 
 
 A "common field" is a tract of land, of several hundred acres, enclosed in com- 
 mon by the villagers, each person furnishing his proportion of labour, and each 
 family possessing individual interest in a portion of the field, marked olT, and 
 
118 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 bounded from the rest. Ordinances were made to regulate the repairs of fences, 
 the time of excluding cattle in the spring, and the time of gathermg the crop and 
 opening the field tor the range of cattle m the fall. Each plat of ground in the 
 common field vva.s owned in fee-simple by the person to whom granted, subject to 
 sale and conveyance, the same as any landed property. 
 
 A " common" is a tract of land granted to the town for wood and pasturage, in 
 which each owner of a village lot has a common, but not an individual right. In 
 some cases, this tract embraced several thousand acres. The " common" attached 
 to Cahokia, extends up the prairie opposite St. Louis. 
 
 This place formerly enjoyed, on account of its proximity to the Indians, an exten- 
 sive and valuable fur trade; but at present it has few or no advantages, and from the 
 number of decayed and deserted houses appears to be on tlie decline. The situa- 
 tion, although somewhat elevated, is damp and disagreeable: in high water, it is 
 frequently inundated. Tlie Americans seldom pass a season without suffering from 
 the effects of the miasma arising from the ponds in the vicinity. The French, 
 whether on account of their being inured to the climate, their manner of living, or 
 from their possessing more hardy constitutions, are little affected by it, but gene- 
 rally enjoy good health. Coal is found in the vicinity of this place. Its discovery 
 was singular, and is thus noticed in Breckenridge's View of Louisiana : "Some 
 years since, a tree, taking fire, communicated to its roots, which continued burn- 
 ing for some time. Upon examination, they were found to have passed through a 
 bed of coal. The fire continued burning until it was completely smothered by the 
 falling in of large masses of incumbent earth." 
 
 CANTON is a pleasant and thriving town in the north-east part of Fulton 
 county, on the main road from Lewistown to Peoria, 15 miles north-north-east of 
 the former, and 25 south-west from the latter, and about 10 miles from the nearest 
 point on the Illinois river. The town is situated on the borders of a large prairie, 
 and has eight or ten stores, a number of industrious mechanics, and a due propor- 
 tion of professional men ; also, a large academy, recently chartered by the legis- 
 lature as a college: this is a respectable institution, under the direction of compe- 
 tent officers, and contains 70 or 80 students. The population of Canton amounts 
 to from 500 to 600. The country around is high, undulating, fertile, and health- 
 ful, with a proper mixture of timber and prairie. 
 
 This town will be intersected by two rail-roads ; one of which will extend from 
 Peoria on the Illinois, to Warsaw on the Mississippi river, opposite the mouth of 
 the Des Moines river: length, upwards of 100 miles. The other will commence 
 at Liverpool, on the Illinois river, 12 miles from Canton, pass through the latter, 
 and terminate at Knoxville, the county seat of Knox county. Extent, about 40 
 miles. The completion of either or both of these public improvements will add 
 greatly to the prosperity and importance of Canton. The prairie on which the 
 town is located commences near Spoon river, and runs northward, dividing the 
 waters tliat fall into Spoon river on the west, from those that enter the Illinois on 
 the east, till it becomes lost in the interminable prairies on Rock river. At Can- 
 ton it is from two to three miles in width, dry, undulating, and inexhaustibly rich. 
 Further north, it becomes inferior. 
 
 CARROLLTON, the seat of justice of Greene county, was laid out in 1821, 
 and is situated about half-way between Alton and Jacksonville, being 3-5 miles 
 from the former and 36 from the latter place, and 10 miles east from the Illinois 
 river. This is a flourishing and pleasant town, lying on the borders of String 
 Prairie, between Macoupin and Apple creeks, in the midst of a beautiful level 
 country, with a rich soil, suitably proportioned into timber and prairie, and densely 
 populated with industrious and thriving farmers. Improved farms around Carroll- 
 ton sell for ten, fifteen, and twenty dollars per acre. The houses are framed or of 
 brick, built in a plain but convenient style. 
 
 Carrollton has a population of about 1000 inhabitants, with seventeen stores, six 
 groceries, two taverns, seven lawyers, six physicians, four ministers of the gospel, 
 two male and two female schools, two steam flouring-mills, two steam saw-mills. 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 119 
 
 and one tannery. The court-house is neatly built of brick, forty-four by forty-six 
 feet, two stories, with a handsome spire. The religious denominations are Bap- 
 tists, Methodists, Reformers, and Presbyterians. The fii'st three have houses of 
 worship, and the latter are preparing to build. 
 
 The city of CHICAGO is the largest place in the state of Illinois, and has 
 grown up almost entirely within the last seven years. It is the seat of justice for 
 Cook county, and is situated on the west side of lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
 Chicago river, and at the eastern end of the Illinois and Michigan canal. Its 
 growth, even for western cities, has been unexampled. In Dr. Beck's Gazetteer, 
 published in 1823, Cliicago is described as a village of 10 or 12 houses, and 60 or 
 70 inhabitants. In 1832, it contained five small stores, and 250 inhabitants; and 
 now (1837) the population amounts to 8000, with 120 stores, besides a number of 
 groceries ; of the former, twenty sell by wholesale. It has also twelve public 
 houses, three newspapers, near titty lawyers, and upwards of thirty physicians. 
 
 Chicago is connected by means of the numerous steamboats, sliips, brigs, 
 schooners, &c., that navigate the great fresh water seas of the nortli, with all the 
 different trading ports on lakes Michigan, Huron, and Erie, and especially with 
 Buffalo, to and from which city various lines of regular packets are constantly de- 
 parting and arriving. Some of the steamboats are of great power and burthen. 
 The James Madison, built last winter at Erie, Pennsylvania, expressly for the Chi- 
 cago, Milwaukee, and Buffalo trade, on her first trip in May of the present year, 
 carried over 4000 barrels freight, and upwards of 900 adult passengers, besides a 
 large number of children ; and the receipts for the voyage were estimated at 
 18,tHX) dollars. It is intended to have this vessel leave Chicago and Buftalo every 
 18 days. The James Madison is 185 feet in length, 31 feet beam, and 45 feet in 
 width on deck including the guards, 12 feet depth of hold, 720 tons burthen, and 
 propelled by a high-[^essure horizontal engine of 180 horse power. 
 
 The merchandize imported into Chicago in the year 1836 amounted in weight 
 to 28,000 tons, and in value to upwards of three millions of dollars, beside a vast 
 number of immigrants with their families, provisions, &dc. There arrived in the 
 same year 456 vessels, including 49 steamboats, 10 ships and barques; the rest,; 
 brigs, schooners, and sloops. During the last winter, 127 teams, loaded with mer- 
 chandize for the country, were counted in the street in one day. 
 
 The Presbyterians, Methodists, Baptists, Episcopalians, and Roman Catholics, 
 each have houses of worship. There are likewise one or more insurance compa- 
 nies, fire companies, water-works for the supply of water from the lake, several 
 good schools, and a respectable academy. A large ship-yard has been commenced 
 near the city. An extensive brewery, a steam saw and grist mill, and a large fur- 
 nace, are all in successful operation. The building of an Academy of Fine Arts | 
 is likewise contemplated, and measures are about being taken to obtain for it a 
 collection of paintings. The care which the original surveyors took to give the 
 prairie winds a full sweep through this city, has distinguished it as the most health- 
 ful place in the western country, and has made it the resort of a large number of 
 people during the sickly season. The natural advantages of the place, and the 
 enterprize and capital that will concentrate here, with the favourable prospects for 
 health, must soon make this the emporium of trade and business tor all the northern 
 country. The completion of the canal will give Chicago a water communication 
 with all the principal cities in the country : the high prices given for produce, and 
 the ready market, will make it the grand resort of the western farmers. 
 
 Chicago is built on level ground, but sufficiently elevated above the highest floods 
 to prevent overflow ; and on both sides of the river, for a mile in v/idtli, along the 
 shore of the lake, the land is a sand-bank: but back of the city, towards the Des 
 Plaines river, is a rich and fertile prairie, and for the first three or four miles dry 
 and elevated. The following description of the country in the vicinity of this 
 place is from the pen of Mr. Schoolcraft : 
 
 " The country around Chicago is the most fertile and beautiful that can be ima- 
 gined. It consists of an intermixture of woods and prairies, diversified with gen- 
 tle slopes, sometimes attaining the elevation of hills, and irrigated with a number 
 
120 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 of clear streams and rivers, which throw their waters partly into Jake Michigan, 
 and partly into the Mississippi river. — xVs a farming country, it unites the fertile 
 soil of the finest lowland prairies, with an elevation which exempts it from the in- 
 fluence of stagnant waters, and a summer climate of delightful serenity ; while its 
 natural meadows present all the advantages for raising stock, of the most favoured 
 part of the valley of the Mississippi. It is already the seat of several flourishing 
 plantations, and only requires the extinguishment of the Indian title to the lands, 
 to become one of tiie most attractive fields for the emigrant. To the ordinary ad- 
 vantages of an agricultural market-town, it must hereafter add that of a depot for 
 the inland commerce between the northern and southern sections of the union, and 
 a great thoroughtare for strangers, merchants, and travellers." 
 
 Along the north branch of the Chicago, and the lake shore, are extensive bodies 
 of fine timber. Large quantities of white pine exist in the regions towards Green 
 Bay, and about Grand river in Michigan, from which lumber in any quantities is 
 obtained, and conveyed by shipping to Chicago. Yellow poplar boards and plank 
 are brought across the lake from the St. Joseph's river. The mail in post-coaches 
 from Detroit, arrives here tri-weekly, and departs for Galena, for Springfield, Alton, 
 and St. Louis, and for Danville and Vincennes. 
 
 The United States has a strip of elevated ground between the town and lake, 
 about half a mile in width, on which Fort Dearborn and the light-house are situated, 
 but which is now claimed as a pre-emption right, and is now in a course of judicial 
 investigation. 
 
 Fort Dearborn was for a considerable period occupied as a military station by the 
 United Slates, and garrisoned generally by about three companies of regular troops ; 
 but the expulsion of tiie Indians, and the rapid increase of settlements at all parts 
 of this region, have rendered its further occupancy as a military post unnecessary : 
 in consequence, the troops have been recently withdrawn. It consists of a square 
 stockade, inclosing barracks, quarters for the officers, a magffeine, provision store, 
 &c., and is defended by bastions at the northern and south-east angles. 
 
 During the last war with Great Britain, this place was the scene of a most foul 
 and bloody tragedy. In 1612, in consequence of the disgraceful surrender of gene- 
 ral Hull at Detroit, it was determined to abandon the fort. A number of the 
 troops, shortly after leaving it, were inhumanly murdered by the savages, who lay 
 in ambush on the margin of the lake. 
 
 The following account of this affair is extracted from M'Afee's History of the 
 late war in the western country. "On the morning of the 15th (Aug.) at sunrise, 
 the troops, consisting of about 70 men, with some women and children, marched 
 from the fort with pack-horses in the centre, and captain Wells with his Indians 
 in the rear. They had proceeded about a mile from the fort, when the front guard 
 was fired on by the savages, who were posted behind a sand-bank on the margin 
 of the lake, and in a skirt of woods which the party were approaching; the rest 
 of the country around them being an open prairie. At the same time, they saw a 
 body of Indians passing to their rear, to cut off their retreat to the fort. The firmg 
 now became general, and the troops, seeing nothing but death and massacre before 
 them, formed in line of battle, and returned the fire of the enemy with much 
 bravery and success, as they slowly retreated in the prairie. The Indians made 
 several desperate efforts to rush up and tomahawk them; but every charge was 
 repulsed by the firmness of the troops, who fought with desperation, determined to 
 sell their lives as dear as possible. Captain Wells being killed, his Indians retired 
 from the party and joined the others. Several women and children were also 
 killed; and our ranks were at last so reduced, as scarcely to exceed twenty effec- 
 tive men : yet they continued resolute, and stuck together, resolved to fight while 
 one remained able to fire. But the Indians now withdrew some distance, and sent 
 a small French boy to demand a surrender. The boy was captain Ileald's inter- 
 preter, who had run off to the Indians at the commencement of the action. He 
 advanced cautiously; and Mr. Griffith, who was afterwards a lieutenant in a com- 
 pany of spies in colonel Johnson's regiment from Kentucky, advanced to meet him, 
 intending to kill him for his perfidy. But the boy declared, that it was the only 
 way he had to save his life, and appeared sorry that he had been obliged to act in 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 121 
 
 that manner. He then made known his business ; the Indians proposed to spare 
 the lives of our men, provided they would surrender. The proposal being- made 
 known to the surviving soldiers, they unanimously determined to reject it. The 
 boy returned with this answer to tlie Indians; but in a short time he came back, 
 and entreated Mr. Griffith to use his influence with captain Ileald, to make hmi 
 surrender, as tlio Indians were very numerous. The captain, his lady, and Mr. 
 GritHtli, were all wounded. He at last consented to surrender; and the troops 
 having laid down tlieir arms, the Indians advanced to receive them; and notwith- 
 standing their promises, they now pcrhdiously toinahawke^d three or tour of the men. 
 One Indian, with liie fury of a demon in his countenance, advanced to Mrs. Ileald, 
 with his tomahawk drawn. ISlie liad been accustomed to danger ; and knowing the 
 temper of the Indians, with great presence of mind, slie looked him in the face, 
 and smiling said, "Surely you would not kill a squaw." His arm fell nerveless; 
 the conciliating smile of an innocent female, appealing to the magnanimity of a 
 warrior, reached the heart of the savage, and subdued the barbarity of his soul. 
 He immediately took the lady under his protection She was the daughter of 
 general Samuel Wells of Kentucky. The head of captain Wells was cut off, and 
 Ills heart was cut out and eaten by the savages. 
 
 "The Indians having divided their prisoners, as usual in such cases, it was the 
 fate of captain Ileald, his lady, and Mr. Griffith, to be taken by the Ottawas on 
 the lake beyond the mouth of the river St. Joseph. Their wounds being severe, 
 they looked upon destruction as inevitable ; but Heaven often smiles when we least 
 e.xpect it. Griffith had observed a canoe, which was large enough to carry them ; 
 and they contrived to escape in it by night. In this frail bark they traversed the 
 lake 201) miles to Mackinaw, where the British commander afforded them the 
 means of returning to the United States." 
 
 After the war, this fort was repaired, and again taken possession of by the Ameri- 
 can troops ; since which time, it has always been, until lately, occupied by a gar- 
 rison. 
 
 DECATUR, the seat of justice for Macon county, is situated on the west side 
 of the North Fork of Sangamon river, on the borders of an extensive prairie, and 
 on a dry, elevated, and healthful site. This place contains at present a population 
 of about :30l) or 400, and promises eventually to be one of the first inland towns 
 in the state. Its future growth and greatness are predicated on the surest grounds. 
 It is so far from any river towns, that it can never be overshadowed by their pros- 
 perity ; while the internal improvements now going into effect, must place it in the 
 first rank as an interior trading town. 
 
 The rail-road from the Mississippi to the Wabash, which, by the act of the last 
 session, is to take precedence of the other rail-roads in the time of its construction, 
 is to pass through Decatur ; this place is also a point in the great central rail road, 
 which is to connect the Ohio with the northern part of the state. Decatur, being 
 thus at the intersection of these two rail-roads; being also far in the interior, and 
 in the midst of a section of country fertile and rapidly increasing in population, 
 enjoys every advantage for a first-rate trading town. It is probable that no town 
 in the state will be more, and hardly any one as much benefited by the present 
 system of internal improvements, as Decatur. The place too is decidedly healthy, 
 it is in a rich and important county, and surrounded by extensive settlements. 
 
 The town contains several stores, and has a number of mechanics and profes- 
 sional men. 
 
 EDWARDSVILLE, the seat of justice for Madison county, is on the south bank 
 of Cahokia creek, and is pleasantly situated on the high ground which bounds the 
 American Bottom. It is in the centre of a fertile and healthful country, well wa- 
 tered and timbered, and gently undulating; presenting at once to the agriculturist 
 a most desirable place tor residence. The vicinity of the town is settled with 
 thrifty and enterprizing farmers. 
 
 Edwardsviile is composed of the old town, laid out in 1615; and the new town, 
 which was laid out about five years afterwards. It is situated 21 miles north-east 
 
 Q n 
 
122 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 from St. Louis, on the Springfield road, 12 miles south-east from Alton, 55 from 
 Vandalia, and 836 from Washington city. It has a court-iiouse and jail of brick, 
 a land-office tor the Edwardsville district, seven stores, two taverns, two physicians, 
 four lawyers, a castor-oil factory, various mechanics, and about 400 inhabitant^!. 
 Here is also an academy and a commodious building. The Baptists and Metho- 
 dists have each a house of worship. The inhabitants are generally industrious, in- 
 telligent, moral, and a large proportion professors of religion. 
 
 GALENA is the principal town in the lead-mine district in the north-west part 
 of the state, and the county seat of Jo Daviess county. It is pleasantly situated 
 on Fever river, a few miles above its mouth, and has a population of about 1200 
 inhabitants, with IS or 20 stores, a dozen groceries, 4 taverns and hotels, a printing- 
 office tliat publishes a weekly paper, called the Gazette, tour lawyers, three phy- 
 sicians, two schools, two ministers of the gospel, a pipe and sheet lead manufac- 
 tory, a flour and savv-mill, a gunsmith, silversmith, saddler, tailor, several carpen- 
 ters, blacksmiths, brick and stone masons, &c. 
 
 This place was first settled in lj>2ti, and was originated by the extensive and 
 rich lead-mines in its vicinity. It was an outpost of between 300 and 400 miles ad- 
 vance into the wilderness north of St. Louis. The amount of business transacted 
 here is very considerable, as it is the place of import and e.xport for an e.xtensive 
 and rich region of country. There is constant intercourse kept up by means of 
 steamboats with St. Louis, New-Orleans, Louisville, Cincinnati, «Si;;c. 
 
 Fever river, on whicli Galena is placed, is navigable at all times for steamboats 
 of any size; and in high water two miles above, for this distance it is deep and 
 sluggish. Above this point it runs with a swill current over a rocky and gravelly 
 bottom, is full of fine fish, and, like all the streams in this region, it is fed with 
 perennial springs. This river rises near the Platte mounds, in Wisconsin Terri- 
 tory, in two branches, the East and ^^'est forks, runs a south-westerly course past 
 Galena, and enters the Mississippi seven miles south of that place. 
 
 In the East Fork settlement, which is twelve miles east from Galena, the tim- 
 ber is scarce, but there is much excellent prairie, and the lead-mines are the best 
 in Illinois. Population of farmers and miners, about fitly families. 
 
 On the West Fork or main creek is a considerable settlement, and some good 
 farms. The alluvion on the stream is fine, and there is a tolerable supply of tim- 
 ber. This settlement is eight miles in a direct course, and twelve miles the trav- 
 elled way north-east from Galena. 
 
 Fever river has been incorrectly called Bean river (Riviere an Feve, Fr.) Its 
 proper name has been derived from two traditionary accounts. The first is, that 
 in early times the Indians were carried ofl'by a mortal sickness, supposed to be the 
 small-pox. This circumstance gave rise to the name of another creek now called 
 Small Pox. The other tradition, and the correct one, is, that it derived its name 
 from a French trader by the name of Le Ftvre, who settled near its mouth. 
 
 GRAFTON, in the southern part of Greene county, is a thriving town, con- 
 taining about 500 inhabitants. It is on the north bank of tlie Mississippi river, 
 two miles below the mouth of the Illinois, 24 miles south of Carrollton, 15 miles 
 north-west from Alton, and ten miles north from St. Charles in Missouri. The 
 town is situated on an elevated strip of land under the blufl%, and has a good 
 steamboat landing. Several islands in the Mississippi make this point the real 
 junction of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, as to navigation. 
 I The country a few miles back is rich, and becoming densely populated. This 
 I place must soon become a thoroughfare for travelling from the Sangamon country 
 I across the Mississippi to St. Charles, and the regions along the Missouri river. It 
 ; has a post-office, several stores and ware-houses, and promises to be a place of con- 
 j siderable business. A charter for a rail-road from this place through Carrollton to 
 I Springfield has been obtained, the company organized, and a portion of the stock 
 taken. A chartered company is about to erect a splendid hotel. 
 
 JACKSON\TLLE, the seat of justice for Morgan county, is situated about 22 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 193 
 
 miles east of the Illinois river, and one and a half miles south of Mauvaiaeterre 
 creek. This town was laid off in lS2i}; but it is only within the last three or four 
 years, that its present advancement can be dated. Its site is a broad elevated knoll, 
 in the midst of a beautiful prairie, and, from whatever point it is approached, few 
 places present a more delightful prospect The neighbouring prairie is undulating, 
 and is accounted uncommonly rich and fertile even in this land of fertility. It is 
 mostly under high cultivation, and in its northern and western edge is enviroDed 
 by pleasant groves. 
 
 Jacksonville contains a population of about 2500, with 16 stores, several groce- 
 ries and druggists' stores, two hotels, and a considerable number of mechanics of 
 various trades ; also eleven lawyers and ten physicians. It has one steam flour- 
 mill, one saw-mill and two oil-mills, a manufactory for cotton-yarn, two carding fac- 
 tories, a tannery, and three brick-yards. 
 
 The public square in the centre of the town is of noble dimensions, occupied by 
 a handsome court-house and market, both of brick ; and its sides filled up witli 
 dwelling-houses, s^tores, oflaces, a church, bank, and hotel. From this point radiate 
 streets and avenues in all directions. The public buildings, in addition to the 
 court-house, are a Presbyterian, an Episcopalian, a Methodist, and a Congregation- 
 alist church, a lyceum, a mechanics' association, a male and female academy, and 
 a county jaiL 
 
 There are two printing-offices that publish weekly papers, the Patriot, and the 
 News, and also a book and job printing-office with a book-bindery attached, and a 
 monthly religious periodical. 
 
 Illinois college is situated on an eminence one mile west of the town, formerly 
 known as Wilson's Grove. The site is delightful : in the rear lies a dense clump 
 of oaks, and in front is spread out the village with a boundless extent of prairie 
 beyond, covered for miles with cultivation. Away to the south, the beautiful wild 
 flowers flash as gaily in the sunlight, and wave as gracefully when sweot by the 
 breeze, as centuries ago, when no eye of civilized man looked upon its bveliness. 
 Connected with the college buildings, are e.xtensive grounds; and students, at 
 their option, may devote a portion of each day to manual labour in the work-shop 
 or on the farm. iSome individuals have, it is said, in this manner defrayed all the 
 expenses of their education. 
 
 JULIET, the seat of justice for Will county, is situated on both sides of the 
 River Des Plaines, at the point where that stream is crossed by the Illinois and 
 Michigan canal, about 16 miles above its junction with the Kankakee river, and 
 40 miles south-west from Chicaigo. This town has been laid off" only a few years, 
 and has already a papulation of about 600 persons. Its position on the canal will 
 add much to its commercial importance, and increase its business facilities ; while 
 Its great command of water-power will render it a suitable plau^e for carr}'ing on 
 various branches of manufacture. It has fourteen stores, two groceries, one drug- 
 store, three taverns, a saw and grist-mill, various meclianics, six lawyers, five phy- 
 sicians, a Methodist and an Episcopalian society. 
 
 KASKASKIA is the seat of justice of Jlandolph county, and was formerly the 
 capital of the Territory of Illinois. It is situated on the right bank of the river of 
 the same name, seven miles above its junction with the Mississippi, from which it 
 is about three miles east. It is near thp southern e.xtremity of the American Bot- 
 tom. The first settlement made here was by the French of Canada, shortly after 
 the visit of IjSl Salle in Ift'SS ; and so long as the French continued in possession 
 of the Illinois country, Kaskaskia was its capital, and w'as flourishing an^ populous. 
 When Charlevoix visited it in 1721, it contained a Jesuit college, tl j ruins of 
 which only remain. In 1763, this place, as well as the country east cf the Mis- 
 sissippi, was ceded by France to Great Britain. In 1766, it contained about 100 
 families, which number it retained until the revolutionary war. In 17"* 8, the fort 
 situated on the east side of the Kaskaskia river was taken by Col., afterwards Gen., 
 George Rogers Clarke. After that time, and until within a few years, this town 
 continued gradually to decline; owing chiefly to the ordinance of 1767, vhich pro- 
 
124 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 hibited slavery and involuntary servitude in what was then denominated the North- 
 western Territory. The slave-holders were disposed to preserve this species of 
 property, and in order to do it etfeclually, they abandoned their ancient habitations, 
 and joined their friends in the new dominions of Spaii), on the west side of the 
 Mississippi. 
 
 At present this place contains about 60 families, a majority of which are de- 
 scended from the French. The houses are scattered over an extensive plain ; and 
 the greatest proportion are built of wood, in the French style. Many of them have 
 fine gardens in front and rear, which give them a rural appearance. Here is a 
 Catholic church, a court-house and jail, and a land-office for the sale of public lands 
 in this district; also a nunnery and a female boarding-school. 
 
 On the east side of the river, directly opposite the town, the bluffs approach the 
 river, and continue parallel with it to its junction with the Mississippi, when they 
 follow the course of that stream in a southerly direction, and terminate thirty-five 
 mile'j above the mouth of the Ohio, forming the southern boundary of the highlands 
 on the Mississippi. From the town to the junction of the Kaskaskia with the Mis- 
 sissippi, there is a body of land, called "the Point," which is low, and subject to 
 inuni^ation, but well timbered. It abounds in wild horses, many of which are 
 annually caught. 
 
 Bv an act of Congress, passed in 1788, a large tract of land was granted to the 
 different French villages on the east side of the Mississippi, and a separate tract 
 to tha inhabitants of Kaskaskia, to be used as a common. It is situated on the Mis- 
 sissippi, and contains twenty thousand acres. It is under the direction of the 
 trustees of the town, in conformity with the special acts of the legislature. 
 
 LEBANON is in St. Clair county, and is beautifully situated on the west bank 
 of Little Silver creek, about 20 miles east from St. Louis, 12 miles north-east from 
 Belleville, 59 from Vandalia, and about 831 fnjm Washington City. The town is 
 located on the edge of a small prairie. The streets cross each other at right 
 angles, and are from 60 to 70 feet wide. It is on elevated ground, surrounded 
 with a beautiful, populous, and well cultivated district of country, and on the Vin- 
 cennes and St. Louis stage-road. 
 
 Lebanon has a steam-mill, for manufacturing grain ; an ox-mill, for flouring, on 
 an mclined plane; a post-office, two public houses, several stores, one grocery, 
 three physicians, mechanics' shops of various kinds, and about si.xty families. 
 M'Kendreean College is located in the immediate vicinity of the town. It is under 
 the supervisioQ of the Methodist Episcopal Church, and is a commodious frame 
 building, with about fitly students in the preparatory department, under the charge 
 of two competent instructors. The Methodist society embraces the largest propor- 
 tion of the religious community about Lebanon. There is a large society of the 
 Methodist Episcopal Church, and a small society of the Methodist Protestant 
 Charch. 
 
 MOUNT CARMEL was laid off in 1818, by Rev. Thomas S. Hinde, of Ohio, 
 witii the view of establishing a moral, temperate, and industrious community. It 
 is the seat of justice for Wabash county, and is situated on high ground on the 
 wesL bank of the Wabash river, and just below the junction of that stream with the 
 White river of Indiana, about 80 miles from its mouth by water, 109 south-east 
 from Vandalia, and 716 from Washington City. This place is immediately below 
 the Grand Rapids of the Wabash river, the prospective improvement of which is 
 thought to give it peculiar importance as a place of business. The country around 
 is high, undulating, healthy, and contains an e.xtensive settlement of industrious 
 farmers. The court-house and jail are brick. The Methodist society, which is 
 large, has a house of worship. 
 
 In Mount Carmel are ten stores, two groceries, two taverns, and a third in course 
 of preparation, one stationed preacher and four local preachers of the Methodist 
 Episcopal Church, one German Reformed preacher, two physicians, one steam- 
 doctor, three lawyers, and from 1000 to 1200 population. The religious denomina- 
 tions are, Methodists (Episcopal), Evangelical Lutherans, associated with the 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 125 
 
 German Reformed, Presbyterians, some Baptists, and Episcopalians — three steam- 
 miils, one ox tread-mill, mechanics and trades of various descriptions, a foundry 
 fqg castinors for niachmery, &x:. The commerce of this place is considerable, and 
 from the 31st of March to the r2th of April, 1837, 26 steam-boats arrived and de- 
 parted. 
 
 NAPLES, the most commercial town in Morgan county, is on the east bank of 
 the Illinois river, two miles above the mouth of the Mauvaiseterre creek, and 2"2 
 miles west from Jacksonville. It is laid off on a level prairie at the toot of a sand 
 ridge, and above ordinary high water. It is in a most delightful situation, with good 
 landings for steamboats. There are one or two tirst-rate hotels in the town," and 
 some large wholesale stores. Several saw and grist steam-mills, together with its 
 contiguity to the surrounding timber, afford ample facilities for building; its free 
 ferry across the river ; its daily line of stages to Jacksonville ; tlie many addi- 
 tional buildings to be erected this season ; and the acknowledged euterprize of its 
 inhabitants, all go to make up a flourishing town, and hold out solid inducements 
 to capitalists. 
 
 The commerce of Naples is considerable. In 153-5, the arrivals and departures 
 of steamboats were 302. The exports in produce, during the same year, amounted 
 to nearly one million of dollars. A rail-road to Jacksonville is now in progress of 
 construction, and will soon be completed, as arrangements were made to lay about 
 half a mile of rails every week during the present season. Naples contains about 
 600 inhabitants. 
 
 OTTAWA, the seat of justice for La Salle county, was laid off by the canal 
 commissiLuers, in 1S30, at the junction of Fox river with the Illinois, and is thought 
 by many to be an important location for business. It is laid off on both sides of the 
 Illinois river, about 60 miles south-west from Chicago, 175 nearly due north from 
 Vandalia, and 219 miles from the mouth of the Illinois river. The country around 
 is pleasant, undulating, and well adapted to farming. The timber is in small quan- 
 titins, chiefly in groves; the prairie land generally dry and rich soil. 
 
 At the town site, the water of the Illinois is deep, and the landing convenient. 
 Steamboats reach this place in the spring, and at other seasons when the water is 
 high. 
 
 Below, for the distance of eight or nine miles, are rapids and shoals, formed by 
 barriers of sand and limestone rock. Ottawa has eight or ten stores, two taverns, 
 three physicians, Ave lawyers, and 75 or 60 families. Large additions have been 
 made to the town plat, by laying off additional lots on Tands adjoining. It is 
 expected a lateral canal from the Illinois and Michigan canal will pass through the 
 town to the Illinois river. This, by means of a feeder to the rapids of Fox river, 
 will open a navigation into Kane county. Fox river is susceptible of improvement 
 by slack-water at a small e.xpense, into the Wisconsin Territory, and from thence 
 by a short canal of fifteen miles may become connected with Milwaukee. Hence 
 Ottawa may be regarded as one of the most important sites for commercial busi- 
 ness in the state. Near it dams are already projected ac^oss the Illinois river, and 
 an immense water-power thus created. The Ottawa Republican, a weekly paper, 
 is published here. 
 
 PEKIN is in Tazewell county, and on the east side of the Elinois river, 12 miles 
 below Peoria, and 158 miles from the mouth of the river. The landing is tolerably 
 good at a moderate stage of the river, but too shoal at a low stage. 
 
 Pekin contains twelve stores, three groceries, two taverns (and a splendid hotel 
 building by a company), seven lawyers, four physicians, four ministers of the gos- 
 pel, one drug-store, three forwarding and commission houses, two houses for 
 slaughtering and packing pork, one auction house, a printing-oflSce which issues 
 the Tazewell Tele^rraph. and about eieht hundred inhabitants. 
 
 There is also one steam flouringr-mill that manufactures two hundred barrels of 
 flour per day. a steam saw-mill and two steam distilleries, an acadeinv, and a com- 
 
 11 
 
126 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 mon school. The religious denominations are Presbyterian, Methodist, and Uni- 
 tarian, which have houses of worship. 
 
 PEORIA is situated on the west side of the Illinois river, at the foot of Peoria 
 lake, and about 170 miles from the mouth of the river. It is the county town of 
 Peoria county. The situation and country in the vicinity are thus described by Dr. 
 Beck, in his Gazetteer of Illinois and Missouri : — 
 
 "The situation of this place is beautiful beyond description. From the mouth 
 of the Kickapoo or Redbud creek, which empties into the Illinois, two miles below 
 the old fort, the alluvion is a prairie, which stretches itself along the river in a 
 north-westerly direction, three or four miles. The shore is chiefly made up of 
 rounded pebbles, and is filled with springs of the finest water. The first bank, 
 which is from six to twelve feet above high-water mark, extends west about a 
 quarter of a mile from the river, gradually ascending, when it rises five or six feet 
 to the second bank. This extends nearly on a level to the blutfs, which are from 
 sixty to one hundred feet in height. These bluffs consist of rounded pebbles, over- 
 laying strata of limestone and sandstone, rounded at the top, and corresponding in 
 their course with the meanders of the river and lake. The ascent, although steep, 
 is not perpendicular. On the bluffs the surface again becomes level, and is beau- 
 tifully interspersed with prairie and woodland. 
 
 " From the bluffs the prospect is uncommonly fine. Looking towards the east, 
 you first behold an extensive prairie, which in spring and summer is covered with 
 grass, with whose green the brilliant hues of a thousand flowers form the most 
 lively contrast. Beyond this, the lake, clear and calm, may be seen emptying itself 
 into, or by its contraction forming, the river, whose meanders, only hid from the 
 view by the beautiful groves of timber which here and there arise, can be traced 
 to the utmost extent of vision." 
 
 Peoria now has twenty-five stores, two wholesale and five retail groceries, two 
 drug-stores, two hotels and several boarding-houses, two free schools and an incor- 
 porated academy, two Presbyterian houses of worship and congregations, one 
 Methodist, one Baptist, one Unitarian, and one Episcopal congregation, six law- 
 yers, eight or ten physicians, one brewery, two steam saw-mills, the usual propor- 
 tion of mechanics, a court-house and jail, and a population of from fifteen to eighteen 
 hundred, which is rapidly increasing. The "Peoria Register and North-Western 
 Gazetteer" is issued weekly, by S. M. Davis, Esq. The religious people of this 
 place have contributed no less than about twenty-three thousand dollars, the past 
 year, for philanthropic purposes. 
 
 There are four lines of stages leading from Peoria, viz. : one to Galena, Sundays, 
 Tuesdays, and Thursdays, distance 160 miles, fare $12; one to Chicago, same 
 days, distance 160 miles, fare $12; one to Springfield, same days, distance 70 
 miles, fare $6; and one to Knoxville, on Thursdays, distance 46 miles, fare $4. 
 Some of these are fine Troy post-coaches ; others are open wagons, on lifeless 
 springs, which do very well on smooth ground in dry weather. 
 
 The old village of Peoria was situated about one mile and a half above the lower 
 extremity or outlet of the Peoria lake. This village had been inhabited by the 
 French, previous to the recollection of any of the present generation. About the 
 year .1778 or 1779, the first house was built in what was then called La Ville de 
 Maillet, afterwards the new village of Peoria, and which has recently been known 
 by the name of Fort Clark, situated about one mile and a half below the old village, 
 immediately at the lower point or outlet of the lake. The situation being preferred 
 in consequence of the water being better, and its being thought more healthful, the 
 inhabitants gradually deserted the old village, and, by the year 1796 or 1797, had 
 entirely abandoned it, and removed to the new village. 
 
 The inhabitants of Peoria consisted generally of Indian traders, hunters, and 
 voyagers, and had long formed a link of connexion between the French residing 
 on the waters of the great lakes and the Mississippi river. From that happy 
 facility of adapting themselves to their situation and associates, for which the 
 French are so remarkable, the inhabitants of Peoria lived generally in harmony 
 with their savage neighbours. It appears, however, that about the year 1781 they 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 127 
 
 were induced to abandon the villag^e, from the apprehension of Indian hostility ; 
 but soon after the peace of 1783, they again returned, and continued to reside 
 there until the autumn of 1812, when they were forcibly removed from it, and the 
 place destroyed, by a Captain Craig, of the Illinois militia, on the ground, as it was 
 said, that his company of militia were fired on in the night, while at anchor in 
 their boats before the village, by Indians with whom the inhabitants were suspected 
 by Craig to be too intimate and friendly. The poor inhabitants, being thus deprived 
 of shelter, fled for refuge to the different villages on the Mississippi. 
 
 In September, 1813, General Howard marched with about 1400 men from Por- 
 tage des Sioux, for Peoria. The regulars who manned the boats, arrived and 
 commenced building a block-house, which they named Fort Clark, in honour of 
 Gen. George Rogers Clark. General Howard, with his mounted rangers, ascended 
 the Miss^issippi as high as Two Rivers, and then crossed over to the Illinois. By 
 this judicious plan, the whole frontier was swept of the enemy, who was continually 
 harassing them. 
 
 On the 29th of September, the general arrived at Fort Clark. The Indians had 
 attacked it two days before, but Lieutenant-Colonel Nicholas, who commanded, 
 gave them so warm a reception, that they soon retired. It was concluded that 
 they had gone to Gomo's town, about thirty miles distant. The general immediately 
 made arrangements, and marched the next morning to attack it. When he arrived, 
 he found the enemy had taken to the water, and ascended the Illinois. He burnt 
 the village and two others, and remained in the vicinity for two nights. He then 
 marched back to Peoria, to assist the regulars in building Fort Clark, which had 
 been commenced and named previous to his arrival. 
 
 With considerable labour, they cut and hauled the necessary timber across the 
 lake , and the fort was in a complete state of defence in twelve days. While they 
 were engaged about the fort. Majors Christy and Boone were detached on separate 
 commands. The former was ordered to ascend the river, in two armed boats, to 
 the foot of the rapids (about 80 miles), to ascertain if the Indians had embodied, or 
 formed any new establishments in that quarter. Major Boone was sent over in the 
 direction of Rock river, to collect every necessary information concerning their 
 traces, &c. Both these officers returned in five or six days, and reported that the 
 enemy had fled on all points. 
 
 Soon afler this, the weather became cold ; and, as no provision had been made 
 for a winter campaign. General Howard determined on returning, and accordingly 
 took up his line of march on the 15th of October, leaving a small garrison in the 
 fort. About tlie termination of the war. Fort Clark was abandoned by the Ameri- 
 cans ; and, a short time afterwards, it was burnt by the Indians, as they assert, 
 through the instigation of the traders. 
 
 QUINCY, the seat of justice of Adams County, is situated on the east bank of 
 the Mississippi river, about 12-5 miles above the mouth of the Illinois by water, 
 193 miles north-west from Vandalia, and 974 from Washington city. This town 
 is only twelve years old, and now has a population of about 1500. It stands on a 
 beautiful elevation, 125 feet above the limestone-bound shore of the Mississippi. It 
 commands a fine view of the river for five or six miles in each direction, and has 
 one of the best steamboat landings to be found on the Mississippi. The first 
 cabin erected on the site of this town is still in existence, and affords, by contrast 
 with the newly erected habitations, a pleasing example of the progress and refine- 
 ment of the place. 
 
 Quincy contains an enterprizing and intelligent community, suitably impressed 
 with the importance of religious and moral habits, among whom the principles and 
 practice of temperance generally prevail. In the town there are about 2.5 stores, 
 four or five land-offices, including the United States land-office for the sale of pub- 
 lic lands in the Quincy district ; three taverns, several gunsmiths, blacksmiths; 
 and cabinet shops, besides a number of other mechanics, eight or nine lawyers and 
 five physicians, also two steam saw-mills and a flouring-mill. The public square 
 is large, and may be made as beautifiil as Washington Square in Philadelphia. On 
 the east side of it, a brick court-house is nearly completed, at an expense of 20,000 
 
128 SKETCHES OF THE CITIES 
 
 dollars. The religious denominations are Methodists, Congregationa lists. Baptists, 
 Episcopalians, German Lutherans, and Roman Catholics. The Methodists and 
 Conoregationalists have eiich erected churches, and the Baptist and Episcopalian 
 societies are now building places of worship. The sabbath-schools are exertmg an 
 important influence on the rismg generation: of daily schools, there are several of 
 respectability. 
 
 The.annual exports of flour and pork amount to about $100,000. Many new 
 buildings are rising, indicative of an increase of wealth and prosperity. The prai- 
 rie in the vicinity of the town is beautiiuUy rolling and rich, and the whole county 
 forms one of the best agricultural districts in the state. There are generally at 
 Quincy about 300 arrivals of steamboats in the year, and there is no impediment 
 to the navigation of the river at any time, except by the freezing of the Mississippi, 
 which generally continues only for a brief period. 
 
 Property has increased, in a short period, from 100 to 1000 per cent, in value. 
 With all its natural and moral advantages, Quincy must increase, and eventually 
 become a place of importance. 
 
 RUSHVILLE, the seat of justice for Schuyler county, is situated in the central 
 part of the county, at the south end of a beautiful prairie, ten miles from the Illi- 
 nois river at the nearest point, and twelve from Beardstown. The settlements 
 around are large; and the town itself exhibits a quietness and neatness in its ex- 
 ternal appearance, that is highly pleasing to the traveller. 
 
 This tt)wn was laid out in 1827, when the county was formed, and two years 
 afterwards contained only seven houses: they now amount to near 400, with a 
 population of about 1200 persons. It contains Ave churches, twelve stores, besides 
 several groceries and other establishments, a considerable variety of mechanics, 
 (more of whom are much wanted,) and a number of professional gentlemen. The 
 court-house is of brick, two stories high; and the people have erected a brick 
 school-house. Good building stone, and plenty of coal, are found in the vicinity. 
 A rail-road from Rushville to the town of Erie on the Illinois, ten miles in length, 
 is contemplated : most of the stock has been subscribed. This improvement will 
 give Rushville all the advantages of a river situation, free from the diseases to 
 which some of the river towns are subject. 
 
 SHAWNEETOWN occupies a beautiful situation on the western bank of the 
 Ohio river, nine miles below the mouth of the Wabash, and 120 above the junction 
 of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Its distance from Pittsburg by water is about 
 900 miles, and from New Orleans about 1200. 
 
 The town stands on a level plain, and embraces a view of the river of two or 
 five miles in each direction. There was formerly a village of Shawnee Indians at 
 this spot; but it was forsaken before the whites attempted a settlement, and no 
 vestige of it now remains, except two small mounds. A few cabins were after- 
 wards built by the French traders; but these had also disappeared, and the ground 
 was covered with bushes when the present town was established. As recently as 
 the year 1808, there was not a house on the ground. In February 1812, an office 
 for the sale of public lands was established at this place; and in March 1814, an 
 act was passed by Congress, providing that two sections of land adjoining Shaw- 
 nee Town should be laid out into two lots, streets, avenues, and outlets, and sold 
 in the same manner as other public lands. 
 
 The bank of the Ohio at this place has a gradual ascent, but is subject to inun- 
 dation at the extreme floods. Between the town and the blufl^s the surface is still 
 lower, and more frequently submerged. Though no considerable sickness has pre- 
 vailed in this town for some years past, it cannot but be regarded as less healtliful 
 than the more elevated portions of the state. 
 
 Shawnee Town is the principal commercial place in the southern part of Illinois, 
 and a good deal of business is transacted both in the wholesale and retail line. It 
 has eight or ten stores, several groceries, two public houses, and 600 or 700 inhabi- 
 tants. The land-office for the district is in this place ; and there is a prhiting- 
 office, which publishes a weekly paper called the Illinois Advertiser. There is i 
 
AND PRINCIPAL TOWNS OF ILLINOIS. 129 
 
 likewise a bank here, which was cliartered by the territorial legislature, and which 
 has recently recommenced doing business, after a suspension of several years. 
 
 SPRINGFIELD, the seat of justice of Sangamon county, is very nearly in the 
 centre of the state of Illinois; being 197 miles a little west of north from the 
 junction of the Mississippi and Ohio rivers, and IS."! miles due south of the north- 
 ern boundary of the state, 114 miles west of tiie eastern boundary, and 91 east of 
 the Mississippi river. The town is situated four miles south of the Sangamon river, 
 on the border of a beautiful and extensive prairie, adorned with excellent and well- 
 cultivated farms, and stretching away on every side to the blue line of distant 
 forest. 
 
 Springfield was laid out about fifteen years ago : but for nine or ten years, it 
 contained only a few scattered log cabins. All its present wealth or importance 
 dates from the last six years. Its geograpliically central situation fits it most admi- 
 rably for the future capital of the state ; while its location by nature in the heart 
 of the most fertile region in the western country, and the important public works 
 contemplated to intersect it, cannot fail of rendering it a place of extensive business 
 and crowded population. 
 
 The public square, a green pleasant lawn inelosed by a railing, contains the 
 court-house and a market, both fine structures of brick ; and the sides surrounding 
 the square are lined with handsome edifices. Many of the buildings, howevtjr, are 
 small ; and the humble log cabin, the abiding place of some of the first settlers, 
 not unfrequently meets the eye. Among its public structures are a jail, and houses 
 of worship for two Presbyterian churches, one Baptist Reformer, one Methodist, 
 one Episcopalian, and one Baptist society, all of which have ministers and respect- 
 able congregations. 
 
 The town contains excellent schools for both sexes, and an academy : there are 
 also nineteen dry-goods stores, one wholesale and six retail groceries, four public 
 houses, four drug-stores, one book-store, two clothing stores, eleven lawyers, eigh- 
 teen physicians, including steam-doctors, one foundry for casting, four carding 
 machines, .mechanics and trades of various descriptions, and two printing-offices, 
 from which are issued weekly the Illinois Republican, and the Sangamon Journal. 
 
 By a recent act of the legislature, Springfield is to be the permanent seat of 
 government after 1840; and an appropriation has been made of $50,000, and com- 
 missioners appointed to build a state-house. 
 
 UPPER ALTON is a delightfully situated town in Madison county, built on 
 elevated ground, two and a half miles back from the river, and east from Alton. 
 The situation of the town is high and healthy. The country around was origin- 
 ally timbered land, and is undulating: the prevailing growth consists of oaks of 
 various species, hickory, walnut, etc. 
 
 Upper Alton was laid off by the proprietor in 1816; and in 1821, it contained 50 
 or 60 families. In 1827, it had dwindled down to a few, from several causes. But 
 since the commencement of Alton, the nourishing mercantile town on the river, it 
 has experienced a rapid growth, and will doubtless continue to advance proportion- 
 ate to the progress of the town and country around. There are eight stores, five 
 groceries, two lawyers, five physicians, mechanics of various descriptions, a steam 
 saw and flour mill, and about 300 families, or 1500 inhabitants. The Baptists, 
 Methodists, and Presbyterians, each have houses of worship. The Baptist and 
 Presbyterian houses are handsome stone edifices, with spires, bells, &c., and pro- 
 vided with ministers. There are seven or eight ministers of the gospel, residents 
 of tliis place, some of whom are connected with the college and the Theological 
 seminary; — others are agents for some of the public benevolent institutions, wliose 
 families reside here. Good morals, religious privileges, the advantages for educa- 
 tion in the college, and in three respectable common schools, with an intelligent 
 and agreeable society, make this town a desirable residence. 
 
 VANDALIA, the capital of the state, and the seat of justice for Fayette county, 
 was laid out in 1818, by commissioners appointed for that purpose, under the au- 
 
 R 
 
130 CULTIVATION OF THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 thority of the state. It is situated on the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, about 
 82 miles north-east from St. Louis, 133 north of the junction of the Mississippi and 
 Ohio rivers, and 781 from Washington City. The site is high, undulatincp, and 
 was originally a timbered tract. Tlie streets cross at right angles, and are 80 feet 
 in width. The public square is on elevated ground. The public buildings are, a 
 State-house of brick, and sufficiently commodious for legislative purposes, unfinish- 
 ed ; a neat framed house of worship for the Presbyterian society, with a cupola 
 and bell; a framed meeting-house for the JNlethodist society; another small public 
 building open for all denominations, and for schools, and otiier public purposes. 
 There are in the town two printing-offices that issue weekly papers, the State 
 Register and the Free Press, tour taverns, eight stores, two groceries, one clothing 
 store, two schools, four lawyers, four physicians, one steam and one water saw-mill, 
 one minister of the gospel, and about 850 inhabitants. Near the river the country 
 generally is heavily timbered, but a few miles back are extensive prairies. The 
 national road has been permanently located and partially constructed to this place. 
 Vaudalia will continue to be the capital of Illinois until the year 1840; after 
 which [leriod, as decided by a late act of the state legislature, the seat of govern- 
 ment will be removed to Springfield, in Sangamon county, where the sum of 
 !|;.50,000 has been appropriated to build a state-house for the accommodation of the 
 legislature, and for other public purposes. 
 
 WHITEHALL is a recently settled town in th« northern part of Greene county, 
 on the main road from CarroUton to Jacksonville, about 10 miles north of the former 
 place, and 12 miles east of the Illinois river: it is in the midst of a fertile and 
 well-settled tract of country, and contains nine stores, two groceries, two taverns, 
 three physicians, one school, and an incorporation for a seminary, a steam-mill in 
 the vicinity, Ixamed houses of worship for Methodists and Baptists, and 600 inhab- 
 itants. 
 
 WINCHESTER is situated in Morgan county, 14 miles from Naples, and 16 
 from Jacksonville. Its population is already estimated at 600; and it enjoys the 
 advantages of good schools, mills, and manufacturing establishments. It was laid 
 off in 1831, on elevated ground, and is a thriving town, increasing rapidly, has 
 several stores, and a number of mechanics of various de.scriptions. The Baptists, 
 Metiiodists, and Congregationalists, have societies here. It has excellent lime and 
 freef^tone quarries in the vicinity, and several mills. 
 
 Winchester is one of the chief points on the line of the rail-road from Jackson- 
 ville to Augusta on the Illinois river. A distance of seven and a half miles on this 
 road, from Winchester to Lynnville, is now under contract, and in a state of great 
 forwardness. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 The following letter from the Hon. H. L. Ellsworth, superintendent of the patent 
 office at Washington City, gives a better idea of the cost of cultivating the 
 western prairies than we have before seen, and we think our readers generally 
 will be pleased vpith a perusal of it Sangamo Journal. 
 
 Washington, Jan. 1, 1837. 
 Dear Sir — You doubtless expect some further statement than has been received 
 respecting the investment made for you in the valley of the Wabash. A desire 
 to meet my son, who was daily expected from Lafayette, has delayed my writing 
 
CULTIVATION OF THE PRAIRIES. 131 
 
 ! until this time. And now, let me say, generally, that the west has orown, and 
 I will continue to increase beyond the most sanguine calculation. Nor will any 
 I action of the general government materially check the advancement of the lands 
 j which are judiciously located on the great western canals or rail-roads. Very little 
 i is yet known of the valley of the Wabash. Although the fertility of the soil is 
 unequalled, few have ever seen tliis country. The reason is obvious; there is no 
 I communication with it; and hence, speculators and settlers have passed around it, 
 ' going west, either by the Michigan lake, or by the Ohio and JNlississippi rivers. 
 
 Five thousand persons left Buffalo in one day to go up the lake, and yet not one 
 went into the valley of the Wabash. A slight inspection of the maps of Indiana, 
 Ohio, and Illinois, will show a direct route to the Mississippi from the west end of 
 Lake Erie, to be up the Maumee, and down the Wabash valley to Lafayette. It 
 may, therefore, be considered certain, that when the rail-road from St. Louis to 
 Lafayette is completed, the great travel from the Mississippi valley to the east, 
 will be by the lakes, through the Wabash and Erie canal, the shortest and quickest 
 route by several days. A person at the mouth of the Ohio will pass up to St. 
 Louis, then take the rail-road and canal to Lake Erie, in preference to tbliowing 
 the meanders of the Ohio river in a steamboat. Can there be a doubt on this 
 subject? — What time will be occupied on this route to New-York ! Not exceed- 
 ing six days. From St. Louis to Lafayette (240 miles), one day may be allowed ; 
 from Lafayette to the lake, at the rate of 4^- to 5 miles on the canal (now in opera- 
 tion considerable part of the way), forty-eigiit hours ; and from the lake to New- 
 York city, via rail-road (now commenced), not exceeding two days. 
 
 What changes this must make in the value of property on the route! The value 
 of land depends on the fertility of the soil and the facility of transportation. From 
 a personal inspection of the western states, during six months past, I am fully con- 
 vinced the Wabash valley has the best soil and most favourable climate. In the 
 latitude of Philadelphia, you avoid the extreme of great heat in summer, and of 
 cold in winter, and also avoid t!ie danger of early frosts, so prevalent in higher 
 latitudes. You may ask, what will be the markets for Indiana] I answer, New- 
 York and New-Orleans, the former by the Erie canal, and the latter by thi: Wabash 
 river (navigable to Lafayette for steamboats), and by the rail-road above-mentioned 
 to St. Louis; also Montreal, by the Welland canal. A choice of all ttiest markets, 
 equally accessible, is presented to farmers on the Wabash valley, who possess a 
 great advantage over Michigan and Wisconsin, in the early navigation of the Wa- 
 bash river. The produce of this valley can by this river pass down to Nev -Orleans 
 in flat-boats, free of tolls, and be transported to Charleston, B:>ltimore, New- York, 
 and Boston, six weeks before the New- York canal opens. — This early miirket may 
 be estimated at a good profit in business. 
 
 You may ask if the Wabash and Erie canals will surely be complel d 1 Un- 
 doubtedly they will. Indiana and Ohio are pledged to complete them Nearly 
 all is now under contract, and government has given lands adjoining si 'Hcient to 
 finish the same without any expense to the states. 
 
 As like causes (other things being equal) produce like effects, it Wi 1 not tax 
 your credulity to believe, that the rich lands on the VV^abash valley will e ual those 
 on the Ohio, New- York, and Pennsylvania canals, which vary from 2.5 'o 60 dol- 
 lars per acre. Is it possible that lands yielding 40 bushels of wheat, 70 ' 'corn, 60 
 of oats, and 4-50 of potatoes, and distant only ten or twelve days transport..tion from 
 New- York or New-Orleans cities, can be less than $-30 per acre ] 
 
 In making selections, I have, when practicable, procured both prairie and tim- 
 ber, though I am sure there has been a common error to pass the rich prairie 
 because timber cannot be found adjoining at the government price. Under this 
 belief many settlers have, to their sorrow, entered the timber and left t!.e prairie, 
 because they supposed nobody would enter that witliout possessing ll^e timber. 
 The prairie has been entered lately. And such is the facility for raising timber on 
 prairies, by sowing the seed of black walnut and locust, that the desire 'or timber 
 land has diminished. Those who doubt the comparative value of timber land, will 
 do well to consider that 12 dollars is a fair price for clearing timbpr lane. 
 
 Timber land, when cleared in the usual manner, is left incumbered with stamps 
 
132 CULTIVATION OF THE PRAIRIES. 
 
 and roots, fatal obstacles to labour-saving macbines. $12,000 will be required to 
 clear 1000 acres of limber land ; whereas the 1000 acres of prairie can be put in 
 tame grass without ploughing. 
 
 A prairie farm may be put in complete cultivation at from .$3.75 to $9 per acre, 
 according to the computations of my son Edward, who has been extensively 
 engaged in cultivating the prairie for the last year. From a personal examination 
 of the land in France, and on the Wabash valley, I feel no hesitation in pronouncing 
 the latter decidedly the best for the beet sugar manufacture. In France, eight, 
 ten, and twelve dollars per acre are paid for rent, and yet great profits are made. 
 An acre of good land will yield 44,000 pounds of sugar beet, trom which 2400 
 pounds of sugar can be extracted, which, at ten cents per pound, amounts to 240 
 dollars per acre. 
 
 In England, paper is now made from the residuum of beets, after the saccharine 
 matter is extracted. An application for a similar patent is now pending in the 
 patent office. The sample of paper exhibited is very good, and the rapidity with 
 which the paper is made, must reduce materially the price of the article. Many 
 labour-saving machines are introduced to aid in the cultivation of new lands. In 
 a few years it is probable that ploughing on smooth lands will be effected by steam, 
 and even now mowing and reaping are successfully done by horse-power. 
 
 Such are the profits of cultivation, that I would advise all who can to improve 
 some part of their lands. A small improvement will repay expenditures, and 
 greatly enhance the value of the whole investment. Three benefits may be 
 expected : 1. The crops will pay expenses and yield a great profit. 2. The land 
 cultivated and the land adjoining will be advanced several hundred per cent. 3. If 
 stock is put on the farm the same is numerically increased, and greatly enhanced 
 in value by improving the breed. 
 
 Either of these considerations is sufficient to justify cultivation and guaranty a 
 large return. I might mention the successful cultivation of hay in the west — from 
 one and a half to two tons is a fair crop. This can be cut and pressed without any 
 labour-saving machines at two dollars per ton : and if the grass was cut by liorse- 
 povver, the expense would be still less. The profits on one hundred heifers at five 
 dollars, might easily be supposed. Fifty breeding sows would probably bring 700 
 pigs per annum, and by these means a large farm could be stocked with little 
 capital advanced. 
 
 Hay at New-Orleans varies from 20 to 50 dollars per ton. An average for the 
 last three years may be thirty dollars. The cost of floating down hay in flat-boats 
 to New-Orleans may be eight dollars per ton. 
 
 There is a practice mentioned by Mr. Newell, and highly recommended by 
 others, of putting in hay-seed without ploughing the ground. This is done by 
 burning the prairie grass in the spring, and harrowing in the seed. The seed 
 catches quick and grows well. Blue grass especially succeeds in this way, and 
 the grass will sustain stock all winter without cutting hay or fodder for them. A 
 large drove of horses was kept last winter at Indianapolis on blue grass, on the 
 open fields, at the small expense of one dollar per head per month. 
 
 From personal examination, I am convinced that ditching and hedging, as prac- 
 tised in Holland, England, and France, almost entirely, and successfully adopted 
 in Illinois, is cheaper than rails. The general complaint of the earth crumbling 
 by frost is prevented by sowing blue grass seed on the sides. Rlulberry trees 
 might be raised on the slope of the ditch, with great profit. Indeed, such is the 
 rapid growth of the mulberry in these rich prairie lands, that the purchase of this 
 land at $1.25 an acre, and planted by these trees alone, would in a few years be 
 highly valuable. Such is the extent of the prairie, that woodland will always be 
 valuable for timber. The woodland is also rich, and fine for cultivation; and if 
 trees under a certain diameter are cut, a fine grazing farm may easily be made, 
 and the good timber preserved. Similar pastures are found in Kentucky ; these 
 yield $3 profit per acre annually. It may be asked, how can non-residents best 
 cultivate their lands? I would remark, that it is customary to rent land (once 
 broke and fenced), for one-third of the crop, delivered in the crib or barn. At this 
 rent the tenants find all. 
 
LETTERS FROM A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 133 
 
 I would advise to employ smart enterprising' young men from the New England 
 states, to take the farm on siiares. If the landlord should find a house, team, cart, 
 and plough, and add some stock, he might then require one-half of the profits of 
 the same. 1 would advise to allow for fencing or ditching a certain sum, and 
 stipulate that the capital invested should be returned betbre the profits were 
 divided. A farmer couUl in this way earn for himself from $700 to $1000 per 
 annum, on a lease for five years. The second year a mowing machine might be 
 furnished, if one hundred acres were seeded down to tame grass. Mast for swine 
 is found in great abundance, and the number of hogs could easily be increased to 
 one thousand by adding to the number of breeding sows. 
 
 Corn is so easily raised that it is found advantageous to turn hogs into a field of 
 this grain without gathering it. It has long been the practice in New-York to 
 raise oats and peas together, and turn in the swine to harvest the same when ripe. 
 Experiments this summer in Connecticut show a great profit in raising spring 
 wheat and oats together, and feeding out the same to hogs. I have omitted to say 
 that good bituminous coal is found m the valley of the Wabash. The veins are 
 from five to ten feet thick, and a large wagon-load will supply one fire for a year. 
 Salt is also manufactured in large quantities and superior in quality to the Ken- 
 hawa salt. 
 
 Farmers in Indiana and Illinois are now successfully inclosing their farms by 
 ditching, which has cost from fifty to seventy-five cents per rod. The laws of the 
 states of Indiana and Illinois compel the owners of lands adjoining to pay one half 
 of fencinir, whenever they make use of, or derive any benefits from the fences of 
 their neighbour. This lessens the expense of fencing one-half. 
 
 If it be asked what are the profits of cultivation ! I answer, if the land is rented 
 for five years, the profits accruing during this period will repay the capital 
 advanced in the commencement, with twenty-five per cent, interest per annum, 
 and leave the farm wortii twenty dollars per acre at the e.vpiration of the lease. 
 Probably the profit will be much greater. Yours, respectfully, 
 
 H. L. Ellsworth. 
 
 LETTERS FROM A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 
 
 The six following letters from the pen of a talented young Philadelphian, a cor- 
 respondent of the editor of the Pennsylvania Inquirer and Daily Courier, appeared 
 in the columns of that gazette during the spring of the present year, under the 
 title of " A Rambler in the West." They are beautifully written, and possess 
 more than ordinary interest for those anxious to acquire information relative to the 
 Western County, more particularly the state of Illinois. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 The Journey — The "Far WesC — A Prairie on fire — Alton — Chicago. 
 
 Vandalia (III.), Jan. 29, 1837. 
 
 I promised you, my dear P , when I left our good Quaker city, that I would 
 
 give you some account of my wanderings. I had intended long ere this to have 
 complied with my promise, but circumstances which we cannot control have hith- 
 erto prevented me from discharging tliat pleasing duty. I design now, however, 
 to present you with a short account of my rambles. 
 
 The morning was cold and lowering, and the rain was descending in torrents, 
 when the carriage arrived which was to convey me on iny journey. It was truly 
 
134 LETTERS FROM 
 
 a cheerless morn, and the streets through which we passed were almost deserted, 
 save where here and tiiere a single pedestrian, wrapping himself in his cloak, de- 
 fied tlie " peltings of the pitiless storm." I need not say that the lowering appear- 
 ance of the heavens tended in any degree to elevate the spirits of the youthlul 
 adventnrer, who was leaving the scenes of his early days — the home of his youth 
 — the thousand sweet associations of friends and "fatherland," on a tour of experi- 
 ment to a new and almost unsettled country. But I had determined that the feel- 
 ings of regret and despondency, so natural to the occasion, should not have a 
 lodgement in my bosom — for experience had fully convinced me that they produce 
 no beneficial results, but were oft-times productive of serious injury. Brusiiing 
 away a hasty tear, which, in spite of all my philosophy, lingered in my eye, I 
 bounded into the car with, apparently, a light and joyful heart. The door closed, 
 and soon tiie last glimpse of my much-loved city faded from my view. After be- 
 stowing my hearty benedictions on it and the many kind friends its walls contained, 
 I applied myself to the accomplishment of my purposes. I was anxious to obtain 
 a knowledge of the country through which I passed, the character of its popula- 
 tion, the nature of its soil and climate, and that mass of valuable information 
 which travel alone can furnish. 
 
 My course lay through the line of internal improvements of the State of Penn- 
 sylvania, which are truly creditable to her citizens, and without much delay 1 
 arrived at Pittsburgh, whose business and activity indeed surprised me. I entered 
 one of the noble steamers which crowded her wharves, and was soon proceeding 
 at a rapid rate over the calm and tranquil waters of the "Beautiful River." Away 
 we flew over its glad waters, and soon the spires and steeples of St. Louis peeped 
 over the distant hills. I thought, upon my arrival there, tiiat I was approaching 
 the "far west;" but when I mentioned west, I was laughed at, and was pointed to 
 that immense region which stretched far beyond the Mississippi, and was told, tliat 
 when I travelled week after week, and thousands upon thousands of miles in that 
 direction, I would then be approaching the confines of the "Great West." I was 
 inclined to be discouraged ; but being determined to visit the Illinois country, be- 
 fore attempting that arduous journey, I was soon on another boat, and ploughing 
 the dark and troubled waters of the rapid Mississippi. The day I left St. Louis 
 was peculiarly fine — one of those days in autumn when summer seems to linger 
 on earth, as if unwilling to yield to Boreas' chill and nipping blast. 
 
 The scenery on the banks of the river was truly grand and sublime. Large jets 
 of rock obtruded far into the stream, and reared their mighty heads almost to the 
 clouds. So regular were they in their proportions, and so nicely chiselled, it 
 seemed as if dame Nature had built for herself, in this western world, a huge and 
 mighty castle, with lotly columns and frowning battlements, defying the skill of 
 man to rival its majestic grandeur. Whilst enjoying the sublimity of the scene, 
 night threw her mantle o'er the earth, and the " sentinel stars set their watch in the 
 skies" — when suddenly the scene was lighted by a blaze of light illuminating 
 every object around. Lo, it was the prairie on fire. Language cannot convey, 
 words cannot express to you the faintest idea of the grandeur and splendour of that 
 mighty conflagration. Methought that the pale queen of night, disdaining to take 
 her accustomed place in the heavens, had despatched ten thousand messengers to 
 light their torches at the altar of the setting sun, and that now they were speeding 
 on the wings of the wind to their appointed stations. As I gazed on that mighty 
 conflagration, my thoughts recurred to you, immured in the walls of a city, and I 
 exclaimed, in the fullness of my heart, 
 
 " Oh fly to the prairie, in wonder, and gaze 
 
 As o'er the grass sweeps the magnificent blaze 
 
 The world cannot boast so romantic a sight — 
 
 A continent flaming 'mid oceans of light." 
 
 I arrived early on the following morning at Alton, which is a flourishing and 
 thriving place, and presents a busy appearance. With its situation I was much 
 pleased, but more gratified with the enterprize of its citizens. Every one here was 
 active and industrious — there were no loungers — no idlers — no "loafers" to be 
 seen. Every one seemed engaged in some occupation, and was pursuing it with 
 
A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 135 
 
 industry and zeal. Large stores — as large as those which adorn our eastern cities 
 — were building on the water's edge; dwelling houses of all sizes were springing 
 up, and the hum of busy industry was sounding through the streets. I left this 
 city with regret, being compelled to pursue my journey. After a very pleasant 
 ride tli rough a most delightful country, I arrived at Chicago. 
 
 Chicago is, without doubt, the greatest wonder in this wonderful country. Four 
 years ago the savage Indian there built iiis little wigwam — the noble stag there 
 saw undismayed his own image reflected from the polished mirror of the glassy 
 lake — the adventurous settler then cultivated a small portion of those fertile prai- 
 ries, and was living far, tar away from the comforts of civilization. Four years 
 have rolled by, and how changed that scene ! That Indian is now driven far west 
 of the Mississippi; he has left his native hills — his hunting grounds — the grave of 
 his father — and now is building his home in the far west, again to be driven away by 
 the mighty tide of emigration. That gallant stag no longer bounds secure o'er those 
 mighty plains, but startles at the rustling of every leaf or sighing of every wind, 
 fearing the rifles of the numerous Nimrods who now pursue the daring chase. That 
 adventurous settler is now surrounded by luxury and refinement; a city with a popu- 
 lation of over six tliousand souls has now arisen; its spires glitter in the morning 
 sun ; its wharves are crowded by the vessels of trade ; its streets are alive with the 
 busy hum of commerce. 
 
 The wand of the magician or the spell of a talisman ne'er effected changes like 
 these; nay, even Aladdin's lamp, in all its glory, never performed greater wonders. 
 But the growth of tiie town, extraordinary as it is, bears no comparison with that 
 of its commerce. In 1833, there were but fo^ur arrivals — or about 700 tons. In 
 1830, there were four hundred and fifty-six arrivals, or about 60,000 tons. Point 
 me if you can to any place in this land whose trade has been increased in the like 
 proportion. What has produced this great prosperity] I answer, its great natural 
 advantages, and the untiring enterprize of its citizens. Its situation is unsurpassed 
 by any in our land. 
 
 Lake IMicliigan opens to it the trade of the north and east, and the Illinois and 
 Michigan canal, when completed, will open the trade of the south and south-west. 
 But the great share of its prosperity is to be attributed to the enterprize of its 
 citizens: most of them are young — many there are upon whose temple the golden 
 lock of youth is not darkened ; many who a short time since bade adieu to the fas- 
 cinations of gay society, and immured themselves in the western wilderness, de- 
 termining to acquire both fame and fortune. And what has been the result ! — 
 While many of their companions and former associates are now toiling and strug- 
 gling in the lowly vale of life, with scarcely enough of the world's gear to drive 
 away the cravings of actual want — the enterprizing adventurer has amassed a 
 splendid fortune — lias contributed to build up a noble city, the pride of his adopted 
 state, and has truly caused the wilderness to bloom and blossom like the rose. 
 Such are always the rewards of ever daring minds. 
 
 No. n. 
 
 Peru. 
 
 Peru, (III.) Feb. 4. 1837. 
 
 I resume my narrative. 
 
 Tile next point to which my attention was directed was Peru. This place will 
 unquestionably become one of the greatest inland towns in the West, and second 
 only to Chicago. A traveller riding through would smile if you were to tell him 
 that this place was destined to become a city. One humble tenement is all it 
 boasts, and a stranger would be apt to imagine, when you told him that a town was 
 laid out there, and that lots were commanding from $1000 to $'2500 apiece, that 
 the speculating fever was raging with all-pervading influence. But tipon careful 
 examination and mature reflection, I have arrived at the conclusion above stated. 
 
 Peru is situated on the Illinois river, at the head of river navigation, and is the 
 point of termination of the Illinois and Michigan Canal. 
 
136 LETTERS FROM 
 
 This canal, when completed, will be the most splendid project of internal im 
 provement in the Union. Its dimensions are sixty feet wide at the top water [ 
 line — 36 feet wide at the bottom, and six feet deep — the estimated cost of which 
 is nine millions. This is a great link in the grandest chain of internal improve- 
 ments known in the world — " it unites the Mississippi with our inland seas, the 
 Gulf of !St. I>awrence with the Gulf of Mexico, and the Rocky mountains with 
 the Atlantic coast." Where can be found a work of internal improvement more 
 important than this ? 
 
 Besides, the great central rail-road from the mouth of the Ohio terminates here. 
 It is situated in the midst of a most fertile region, abounding in grain, in coal, in ■ 
 iron, and in hydraulic power. These things being considered, is it wrong to sup- 
 pose that a large inland city will here arise! For myself I have no doubt of 
 the fact, and would sfcike my reputation on the result. And but a few short 
 months ago, the land there was entered by an eriterprizing Pennsylvanian, (one 
 who, by his business talents, enterprize, and unspotted reputation, has amassed a 
 munificent fortune, and wiio can be pointed to as a distinguished example of the 
 success which attends well-directed efforts) for a dollar and a quarter per acre — 
 now it will readily command from 5000 to 10,000 dollars per acre. 
 
 1 assure you, my dear , I have often wished as I was roaming over this beau- 
 tiful country, tliat you were with me, to view this scene m all its glory, to cast 
 your eyes over a boundless tract of land, on which stern Winter has cast his fleece- 
 white mantle, to teel the west wind blowing on your cheek, and to experience that 
 thrill of pleasure which the sight of those grand and mighty prairies alone can 
 bt'stow. But perhaps you will see them at a more propitious period. Come, when 
 Flora casts her garlands o'er the land, — Come, 
 
 " When universal Pan 
 Knit with the graces and the hours in dance, 
 Leads on the gentle Spring." 
 
 Come, when the prairie flower is in blossom — come when " the rank grass is wav- 
 ing in billowy pride." Come when the chain that now binds these sluggish streams 
 is l(X)sed, and hear them laugh and merrily sing as they journey on to the ocean. 
 Come then and view this rich, this growing, this flourishing country — examine its 
 resources. See the field that is opened for enterprize and talent — look at the 
 laurels which can be gained by e.xertion here, reflect on its increasing greatness, 
 and the influence it is destined to exert upon our common country ; and my word 
 for it, a city lire will lose its charms, and you will, without a sigh, bid it farewell, 
 take up your stafl^, and come and pitch your tent in the great — the growing — the 
 mighty — the boundless West. 
 
 No. III. 
 
 A Snow- Storm on the Prairie. 
 
 Peoria, (III.) Feb. 8, 1837. 
 
 "Now sharp Boreas blows abroad, and brings 
 The dreary winter on his frozen wings ; 
 Beneath the low-hung clouds, the sheets of snow 
 Descend, and whiten all the fields below." 
 
 Such was the burden of my song when I awoke from a most refreshing slumber, 
 and saw large white flakes descending, and the whole country covered with the 
 snowy garb of winter. It is oft-titnes a very plea.sant employment to watch the 
 progress of a snow-storrn, but then you must be sheltered from its violence, for I : 
 assure you, you cannot at all sentimentalize when you are breasting its fury, and i 
 have a long and dreary journey before you. However, this morning I was in a i 
 peculiarly gfxxi humour, and disregarding the solicitations of my friends, who 
 begged me to remain until the storm had abated, I determined to resume my ' 
 journey. Soon the merry jincfle of the sleigh-bell announced to me that my vehi- 
 cle was at the door of my friend's hospitable mansion — into it I sprung with joy- ' 
 
A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 137 
 
 ous gaiety, and away we flew over the broad and boundless prairie. My noble 
 steed seemed to feel a new excitement as he inhaled the fresh mornincr breeze, 
 which lent life and vigour to every nerve. 
 
 A prairie is most beautiful in " the spring time of year," for then it is a garden 
 formed and cultivated by nature's hand, where spring the clustering flowers which 
 bloom in rich lu-xuriance, and "shed their tragrance on the desert air." But when 
 stern winter casta her mantle over the earth, and binds the streams in icy fetters, 
 then a prairie is a spectacle, grand and sublime, and will well repay tor the hard- 
 ships and privations of Western travelling. I was compelled, however, to ride 
 against the wind, which whistled around and blew directly in my face. So violent 
 was the storm that I was almost blinded by the thick flukes that were dashed di- 
 rectly in my eyes. Had I acted with prudence, I should have discontinued my 
 journey, and made myself comfortable tor the remainder of the day at the loo- hut 
 where I dined — but I determined, in spite of wind and weather, to reach Peoria 
 by night Whilst progressing quietly on my way, gray twilight extended her 
 evening shades on earth. Still I drove on, anxious to reach my point of destina- 
 tion. Not a single star peeped out from the heavens to shed its light on a benight- 
 ed traveller. The storm increased in violence, and the cold winds whistled a 
 wintry tune. I now found I had strayed from the road, and here was I on a broad 
 prairie, without mark or mound, and had lost the trace, which was ere now covered 
 by tiie falling snow. 
 
 Unfortunately I had left my compass behind, and now I was on a broad sea 
 without a chart or compass, and without one stray light in the heavens whereby to 
 direct my course. The mariner, when tossed upon the billows of the stormy ocean, 
 has at least the satisfaction of knowing where he is, for the needle will always point 
 to the pole, and his chart will tell him of the dangers in his path — but the weary 
 traveller, who has lost his way on a Prairie, is on a boundless sea, where he can- 
 not even tell the direction he is pursuing, for oft-limes he will travel hour after hour, 
 and still remain at nearly the same point trom which he started. Had even one 
 accommodating star beamed in the heavens, 1 should not have been the least dis- 
 concerted, for then I could have some object whereby to 2"uide my steps. But all 
 the elements combined against me, and I assure you my feelings were by no means 
 comfortable. Memory ran over the sad history of the numerous travellers, who 
 had been overtaken by night, and been buried in the falling snow; many who had 
 started in the morning full of gay hopes and buoyant anticipations, who, ere another 
 sun had risen, had (bund a cold and solitary grave — arrested in their course by the 
 chill and icy hand of death. Alas, thought I, how true it is, 
 
 " For ihem no more the blazing hearth shall burn — 
 Or busy housewife ply her evening care; 
 No children run to lisp their sire"s reiuni — 
 Or climb his kaee, the envied kiss to share." 
 
 Insensibly I felt a strong inclination to sleep — I had always heard that this was a 
 dangerous symptom, and if I yielded to its influence, my life would certainly be 
 lost. I endeavoured to shake otF the drowsy feeling. Never before have I expe- 
 rienced such a strong inclination to sleep. Never before did I exert myself more 
 to keep awake. I halloed — I shouted — I beat my breast to preserve animation, 
 and tried every method to prevent my yielding to the drowsy influence. My noble 
 horse was almost exhausted, and I myself began to despair of reaching a place of 
 shelter — when suddenly a ray of light beamed upon the snow, and shed a shadow 
 around me. Encouraged by this favourable token, I urged on. My jaded steed 
 also seemed to know that he was approachiun- a place of shelter, for he quickened 
 his pace, and shortly atlerwards I discovered at a distance, a small log-hut, from 
 whose window beamed a broad blaze of light. Soon was I at the door, and warm- 
 ly welcomed by the kind owner, who shook the snow from my garments, and gave 
 me a seat before a blazing Are. 
 
 Oh, how delightful was the sense of security as I sat sheltered from the wintry 
 blast, and listened to the tales of the innwtes, many of whom had, like me, been 
 overtaken by the storm, and now were relating the events of their journey. I have 
 passed many delightful evenings in the course of a short but eventful life — I have 
 
 S 1<5 * ~ 
 
138 LETTERS FROM 
 
 been at the festive board, where the wine-cup was pushed merrily around, and 
 eont^, and laughter, and merriment abounded — I have mingled in the society of the 
 
 gay — I have been 
 
 " Where youth and pleasure meet 
 To chase the glowing houi-s with flying feet." 
 
 But never have I passed a more happy evening than in the small and narrow cabin 
 of that Illinois farmer. 
 
 No. .IV. 
 
 Peoria — Illinois — The West. 
 
 Peoria, Feb. 8, 1837. 
 
 Early on the ensuing morning I arrived at Peoria. Peoria is situated on the 
 Illinois river, and is in very truth a most beautiful site for a town. A few miles 
 above, the river expands in a lake, upon the banks of which it is situated. The 
 approach to the town is through alternate wood-land and prairie. It is the county- 
 town of Peoria county, and has a bright prospect of rapidly increasing. It now 
 has a population of fifteen hundred, and boasts of a large and commodious court- 
 house and several fine mansions. It commands at all seasons an unbroken water 
 communication with St. Louis, and is situated in a most delightful country. Its 
 trade now is brisk, but it will increase in a ten-fold degree upon the completion of 
 the Illinois and Michigan canal. 
 
 The highly respectable and talented author of "A Winter in the West," in one 
 of his letters in 1834, expresses the following sentiments in reference to this 
 work: "The State of Illinois, judging from the progress already made, will not 
 complete the canal for half a century. The want of capital is here so great, as 
 almost to seal up every outlet for enterprize, though they present themselves on 
 every side, and our eastern capitalists are so completely ignorant of the prodigious 
 resources of this region, that it will be long ere this defect will be supplied." To 
 a part of this assertion we are obliged to enter our dissent, while to a part we 
 will most cordially assent 
 
 There exists no doubt on my mind, that this great and important work will be 
 completed in five years; which, considering the immense magnitude of the under- 
 taking, is certainly a short time. livery effort is now making to hasten its comple- 
 tion. A large part of it is under contract, and labourers are at work upon a con- 
 siderable portion of the line. The Commissioners are men of acknowlfdged 
 talent and integrity, and there is every reason to believe that the state, feeling a 
 just and praiseworthy pride in the construction of this grand link in the chain of 
 internal improvements, will urge its immediate completion. But we do agree 
 with the author referred to, that our eastern capitalists are completely ignorant of 
 the resources of this region. 
 
 Eastern capitalists cannot realize the great opportunities that every day present 
 themselves for safe and profitable investment, and the great returns received for 
 capital invested. With many the opinion is prevalent, that the accounts received 
 through the medium of the press, are but the "puffs" of adventurous speculators, 
 who by this method "crack up" their property, with the design of defrauding in- 
 nocent purchasers. That this system has been most extensively pursued, cannot 
 be denied ; but that this country is destined to advance most rapidly in the scale 
 of importance, and that investments judiciously made now, will insure a great profit, 
 can be shown to the satisfiiction of any reasoning mind. 
 
 Take out your map, and look at this noble state ; look at its geographical situa- 
 tion, between 37 and 42 deg., N, lat. ; see the mighty Mississippi rolling its swift 
 and turbid current along the western borders; look at the Wabash pursuing its 
 silent way along the eastern side; see the "Beautiful River" washing the southern 
 boundary; and look at that calm and placid stream, so properly denominated "a 
 natural canal through a natural meadow," dividing the state and extending far and 
 wide its fertilizing influence. What portion of our country is better watered or 
 
 ' ■ — 
 
A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 139 
 
 more capable of commanding a great hydraulic power? Reflect upon the face of 
 the country and the nature of its soil. Here are no high and barren hills, or thick 
 and dense woodlands, but broad and rolling prairies. 
 
 The stale of Ohio will, at tJic next census, rank the third state in the confede- 
 racy ; I mean as regards wealth and population— and yet what immense labour 
 was required "to clear" a large portion of her territory, and then, at her early 
 settlement, we had but a capiUil stock of six millions of souls. And if Ohio in 
 thirty years rank as the third state in this Union, I ask what time will it require 
 lor a state to stand beside her — where the ground is already prepared by nature's 
 hand tor the farmer — when we liave a capital stock of over thirteen millions, and 
 when the facilities for emigration are ten-told increased. Besides, Illinois contains 
 a larger quantity of rich land than any other state, and therefore can maintain a 
 large- agricultural population, which is the great basis of national wealth. These 
 things being considered, can we doubt that ere long these beautitiil prairies will be 
 adorned by the home of the settler — will re-echo the shrill whistle of the plough- 
 man, as he " homeward plods his weary way," or the glad and joyous song of the 
 reaper, as he gathers in the golden harvest? 
 
 Can we doubt tliut, ere long, Illinois will stand among her sister states — "her 
 brow blooming with the wreatli of science, her path strewed with the offerings of 
 art, her temples rich in unrestricted piety," her prairies waving with the fruits of 
 agriculture, her noble streams bearing upon their bosoms the produce of every 
 clime, her borders filled with a rich and thriving population, attached to the insti- 
 tutions of our fathers ; lovers of rational and enlightened liberty, and reflecting 
 honour and glory upon our common country. But I must pause; my eyes grow 
 heavy — my candle has almost burnt to its socket — and I must bid you good night. 
 For now, 
 
 "The lamp of day is quench 'd beneath the deep. 
 And soft approach the balmy hours of sleep." 
 
 No. V. 
 The East — T%e West — Enterprize — Agriculture. 
 
 Springfield, (III.) Feb. 27, 1837. 
 
 Here am I at the neat and pretty town of Springfield, a place of considerable 
 trade, and containing a truly kind and hospitable population. The journey from 
 Peoria to Springfield was most delightful. The air was pure and balmy — the 
 heavens were blue — the roads were in fine order, and the "tout ensemble" was 
 (to use a western term) " gorgeous." I am now snuo-ly ensconced in a comfortable 
 room, and intend to entertain you with a few detached and unconnected thoughts — 
 and I will couiinence by saying, that the period of the year is fast approaching, 
 wnen the tide of emigration rolls to the western world. As soon as the streams 
 that now are bound by winter's chain, are loosed — as soon as the noble steamers, 
 that " walk the waters like a thing of life," are plying up and down our rivers, the 
 numbers of emigrants who will come to this land of promise, will far exceed that 
 of any previous year. It is not merely the oppressed and afflicted of foreign climes, 
 who have left their native hills for this land of peace and plenty ; but man}' of our 
 most enterprizing citizens, actuated, some, by a desire to improve their fortunes, 
 and others by that truly American spirit — the love of rambling (for we are truly a 
 migratory people,) will forsake their own comfortable homes, to examine the pros- 
 pects of this much talked of, much written of, and far-famed country. 
 
 That those who possess sufficient intelligence, to appreciate and understand the 
 advantages of this country, and a spirit of enterprize that will support them under 
 the privations they must necessarily encounter, will be charmed and gratified with 
 their western tour, I have no doubt; nor do I question that Illinois, in the progress 
 I of another year, will rank among her citizens, many of the most intelligent and 
 enterprizing of our sister states. That this country possesses advantages of a most 
 important character, and offers man\' attractions to the youthful adventurer — to him 
 
140 LETTERS FROM 
 
 who would acquire both fame and fortune, can, I think, easily be shown, and I would 
 present a few considerations tending to illustrate the subject 
 
 And I will premise bv saymg, that there is no truth more evident to the reflect- i 
 inf mind, than that in this transatlantic world, every one must be the architect of 
 his own fortune — no matter what course of life is adopted, be it professional or me- 
 chanical, llie basis upon wiiicli every hope of future eminence must rest is, diligent, 
 uutirin?, persevering application. Assuming tliis tact as granted, 1 would refer to 
 the superiority of the western portion of our continent over tiie eastern, as regards 
 the acquisition of iceultk — professional eminence — political distinction, and the 
 opportunitv offered ot' exercising influence on society amd the destinies of our com- 
 mon country. 
 
 As respects the acquisition of wealth — the great basis of all wealth is the agri- 
 cultural interest, and that country must be tiie richest, which is the most capable 
 of sunporting t!ie largest agricultural population. Land, rich and fertile soil, is the 
 foundation of a nation's glory. It is true, that commerce tends much to enricli a 
 people, and lar^re, nay, immense fortunes, have been made in the pursuit of trade. 
 But who does not know tlie mutations of trade ? — who is not cognizant of the fluc- 
 tuations of commerce ! who is ignorant of the fact, that he who is engaged in com- 
 mercial transactions may to-day be master of thousands, and roll in splendour and 
 lu.xurv, and to-morrow be a bankrupt, and know not where to lay his head ! Do 
 vou seek fur the evidence of this fact ? Go to any of our large cities and inquire, 
 and you will find the sad truth written in indelible characters, so plain that he who 
 runs may read. 
 
 Xow none of these mutations and fluctuations afU'ict the agricultural or producing 
 class of society — no panics or pressures occur among them — a stormy sea cannot 
 swallow up their earnings, nor a raging fire destroy the toil of years. Tiie seed 
 is dropped into tiie ground, and, "He who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb," 
 sends the genial sunshine and refreshing showers, and the ripe and yellow harvest 
 awaits the labourer's gathering. 
 
 I Now, land in the western world is rich and fertile, and I will venture to say, 
 that the soil of one of the prairies is more productive than any soil in your much 
 j loved state, not even e.xcepting the far-famed Lancaster county, where tiie toil and 
 ! labour of many years has been expended in improving it This rich and fertile 
 soil can be entered at 81.25 per acre, or bought "second-hand" for from •S~2.5U to 
 S^S.-tO per acre. And it has been proved by actual experiment, that an enterprizing 
 settler can break and sow ^ acres, and from the profits of his crop can realize a 
 sufficient sum to enter and pay for his land ; thus in one year, by the toil and labour 
 of his hand, acquiring a fee-simple title to a fine and improving farm. In what 
 portion of the eastern states can this be done I " I pause for a reply." Again — 
 wealth will be acquired by the natural increase of the country. 
 ! This whole region (particularly the states of Illinois, .Mich gan, and Wisconsin 
 ' Territory,) is filling up with great and unexampled rapidity. The increase of the 
 country is truly wonderful, and one who has not witnessed it can scarcely believe 
 it The growth and prosperity of Chicago may be taken as a fair example of the 
 unprecedented increase and advancement of the country. Cities and towns spring 
 up in every quarter, and a mighty tide of emigration is rolling far and wide its fer- 
 tilizing influence. 
 
 A small sum of money now judiciously invested, will increase in a ratio not even 
 
 I dreamed of by an eastern capitalist Speak to them of the advantages of this re- 
 
 j giiin, and they smile, an 1 tell you, you are exercising the pov.-ers of a fertile ima- 
 
 . ginxtion. They manifest the same incredulity as was exhibited by tiie eastern 
 
 I monarch, when told by the philosopher, tfiat he came from a country where water 
 
 ; became congealed, and bore upon its bosom, men, and horses, and chariots. The 
 
 , monarch was indignant, that any one should attempt (as he supposed) to impose 
 
 upon his good sense and experience ; for he had been sunned in a burning clime, 
 
 and there the streams were never bound by winter's chain, but were ever rolling 
 
 their turbid waters, and yet the philosopher's tale was no less true than strange — 
 
 and so it is with our eastern capitalists — they can form no idea of the increase and 
 
 unexampled advancement of this country, for it is unparalleled in the annals of the 
 
A RAMBLER IX THE WEST. 141 
 
 world ; and although they sometimes think they are very wise in discrediting our 
 statements, they are only acting from a principle of human nature, ("which is truly 
 illiberal and narrow.) to disbelieve any thing that is contrary to their preconceived 
 opinions, and has never occurred under the observation of their senses. 
 
 But judoing of the future by the p^ist, and can we have a better lamp to our 
 steps than that of experience ! what may we not anticipate from the increase of 
 this country ? It seems but yesterday tiiat the whole valley of the Mississippi was 
 a wilderness, untrodden, save by the moccasin of the red man, where the silence 
 and solitude of nature was unbroken save by the shriek of the wolf, or the cry of 
 tiie majestic eagle, ] 
 
 " As he gracsfblly wheel'd in the clood-speckled sky." 
 
 Now, as if by work of enchantment, mighty states have there arisen, powerful 
 m wealth and population — sisters of a common confederacy, and reflecting honour 
 on o<ir common country — cities and towns have sprung up like stars above the ho- 
 rizon, and the whole scene is alive with the industry and enterprize of man. Why, 
 I ask, will not land in Illinois be as valuable as in any portion of the Atlantic states 1 
 Why will not land along the borders of the Illinois and .Michigan canal command 
 as hisrh a price as that upon the Erie canal ■ The soil is far more productive, re- 
 quires less toil to prepare for the hand of the farmer, and the market for produce 
 is far superior to any in the east Does any one pretend to say that lands in any 
 portion of tfte west will ten years hence be sold for .>:L25 per acre ] if so, he arrives 
 dt that conclusion by a process of reasoning which I cannot understand. To the 
 mechanic — to the labourer — to the working classes of society, this fact oSers great 
 encouragement ; for here they can earn large wages, and the small sums which 
 they invest will increase most rapidly. 
 
 Again, wealth depends upon economy. It is the prudent, saving man, and not 
 the prodigal, who acquires a fortune ; — a penny saved is a penny earned, was the 
 maxim of a wise philosopher, and its truth has been fully tested. Now, in a new 
 country, fewer temptations are in your path — fewer opportunities for wasting and 
 squandering the wealth earned by your labour — fewer inducements are presented 
 for the exhibition of e.xtravagances and prodigality, than in our large eastern cities, 
 where luxury is the reigning vice — where man strives as the object of his highest 
 ambition, to outrival his fellow man in the magnificence of his equipage, the extra- 
 vagance of his table, and the brilliancy of his entertainments. 
 
 These considerations, then, the low price of rich and fertile soil, the certain and 
 great increase of the country, and the want of opportunities tor the display of ex- 
 travagance and prodigality, exhibiu in a faint degree, the superiority of the west- 
 ern country — the young and rising west — over the over-populated and already ex- 
 hausted east. If then wealth be the object of pursuit — if the acquirement of a 
 fortune be the '• ultima thule" of your wishes, here is the field upon which to com- 
 mence your efforts — a field already ripe with the golden harvest, and only waiting 
 the labourer's gathering. 
 
 No VL 
 The Acquisition of Wealth — Young Men and Old — Advantages of the West. 
 
 Jacksonville. March 3. 1537. 
 
 In mv last, I endeavoured to exhibit the saperiority of the Western Country 
 over the eastern, as regards the acquisition of wealth. Unfortunately for us, the 
 desire for wealth Is the ruling passion of our nation — a passion developed in early 
 life, sanctioned by parental admonition, and strena^thened by each advancing year 
 — almost the first principle instilled into the youthful mind, b the importance of 
 wealth, and almost the first object to which the yiHithful energies are directed, is 
 the acquisition of a fortune. We will not stop to show the pernicious influence 
 which this universal worship at the shrine of .Nlammon has ur<cn the morals, the 
 literar\- t-^ste, and the intellectual greatness of c ir pecple. We w;!! not stop to 
 
142 LETTERS FROM 
 
 exhibit the dangerous tendency of this money-making spirit, to destroy those nice 
 distinctions between right and wrong — to vitiate the public taste — to impair the 
 force of native intellect, and to delay the glorious triumphs of the mind. 
 
 This fact we will leave to an abler pen, confident that our feeble eflbrts would 
 be of little avail in checking that ardent and earnest desire for wealth so prevalent 
 through the land. But there are those to whom, in speaking of the advantages of 
 a new country, we can point to higher and nobler inducements than the mere 
 acquisition of worldly goods — many who are engaged in the noble employment 
 of cultivating and improving the human intellect, and desire a broad and ample 
 field upon which to e.xert the energies of that immortal mind with which Provi- 
 dence has blessed them. 
 
 To those we would speak in the language of affectionate regard, and would en- 
 deavour to convince them that, if they desire distinction in that branch of science 
 to which their attention has been directed — if eminence in their profession is the ' 
 object of their wishes, that they have only to summon up moral courage to enter 
 boldly on a scene of action which will inevitably lead to happy and glorious results. 
 But they must be endued with the spirit of lofty determination and noble resolu- 
 tion — a determination that will brave all obstacles — a resolution that will support 
 them under all privations — not that weak and sickly resolution that every difficulty 
 discourages, and every obstacle disheartens; but that bold and manly resolution 
 which, fixing its eagle eye upon the topmost height, determines to reach the des- | 
 tined mark, and, like the thunder-bearer of Jove, when storms and tempests beat 
 around, soar higher and loftier, and sustains itself by tho force and sublimity of its 
 own elevation. 
 
 Among the number of advantages which the West has over the East, may be 
 enumerated the following : — 
 
 1. In the East, the professions are monopolized by the older members — in the 
 West, the responsible duties of the professions are confided to the young men. 
 
 2. In the West, greater inducements for the acquisition of a fortune being held 
 out by the farming or agricultural interest, and great privations having necessarily 
 to be encountered, the number of professional men is fewer than at the East, and 
 consequently the field is more ample. 
 
 3. In a new country, every thing being to build up and construct, greater oppor- 
 tunity is offered for the exercise of professional talent. 
 
 4. The tendency of a new country being to develope and bring forward youth- 
 ful talent, exerts a highly favourable influence upon boldness, force, and originality 
 of intellect. 
 
 In illustration of the first proposition, we need but appeal to the experience of 
 every young professional man. How few, how very few, even of our most active 
 and intelligent young men can, in our large eastern cities, earn a respectable live- 
 lihood ! One or two of the most eminent and experienced monopolize the most 
 important and lucrative portions of the business. The community look up to them 
 with confidence, for they believe their minds are matured by wisdom and ripened 
 by experience, and the young men are permitted to remain in almost total inac- 
 tivity. 
 
 Here and there an instance may occur of a young man of high and noble en- 
 dowments entering boldly into the arena, and, by the force of his intellect and the 
 brilliancy of his talents, commanding a large share of public patronage ; but for 
 one who thus happily has burst the fetters which confine and restrain the youthful 
 ' intellect, how many have toiled and struggled in the lowly vale of life, then 
 ' "dropped into the tomb, unhonoured and unknown I" — The aged and experienced 
 I will not confide their business to youthful heads, for they cannot realize that those 
 j whom a few short years ago they dandled on the knee, or saw engaged in the 
 simple and artless amusements of early childhood, are prepared to discharge the 
 ; high and responsible duties appertaining to a profession. 
 
 I Now, in the West the population is mostly young, consisting chiefly of youthful 
 adventurers, who have left their peaceful homes with the determination to reap 
 the advantages of a new country. A young professional man has enlisted in his 
 behalf, not the cold and sordid influence of those whose feelings have been chilled 
 
A RAMBLER IN THE WEST. 143 
 
 by a contact with a selfish world, but the warm and glowing feelings of early 
 youth. He is there surrounded not by the aged fathers of the profession — those 
 whose brows are silvered o'er by the frosts of time — not the experienced soldiers 
 who have conquered o'er and o'er again in the fight, and advance to the contest 
 confident of success; but he beholds himself surrounded by his equals — his com- 
 panions and associates, each striving to gain the prize of public approbation — each 
 struggling to win tlie pure and spotless laurels which will crown the victor's brow. 
 
 In illustration of the second proposition, we can only add, that there can be no 
 doubt that if the acquisition of wealth be the object of pursuit, greater induce- 
 ments are held out by the farming and agricultural interest. A professional life is 
 at all times a life of toil, and he who aspires to its highest honours must remember 
 that they are only to be attained by untiring unremitting effort. The pecuniary 
 emoluments are small compared with other occupations of life, and he who desires 
 professional eminence must not expect to reap the same amount of this world's 
 good as he whose soul is engaged in the pursuit of trade. 
 
 Now an enterprising emigrant, when he leaves his native village, as he turns to 
 take the last lingering look of the home of his affections — as he beholds the spire 
 of the village church, where so oft he has worshipped the God of his fathers, glit- 
 tering in the morning sun, the last wish which animates his bosom, is the hope of 
 some not far distant day, returning to the scenes of his childhood, where every 
 object brings some sweet association, laden with the fruits of his toil. In fine, it 
 is wealth that he hopes to attain, and it is the prospect of reaping golden fruits 
 which enables him manfully to endure the privations to which he is subjected, 
 lie arrives at the land of promise, and examines the prospect of improving his for- 
 tune which the country affords. He finds that the tiller of the soil is the one who 
 reaps the most productive harvest, and no matter what profession he may have 
 adopted, — no matter what branch of science may have hitherto occupied his atten- 
 tion — he relinquishes its pursuit — forgets the obligations his profession imposes on 
 him, and forsakes his calling to assume the manly and independent, but at the 
 same time more profitable employment of the farmer. 
 
 But few, few alas! of professional men of the proper stamp and character emi- 
 grate to a new country. It is the hardy yeoman and independent mechanic who 
 has the moral courage to emigrate to a new but growing country. The young 
 professional man is unfortunately too attached to the comforts of a city life. He 
 loves his ease too much to think of forsaking the attractions and fascinations which 
 have thrown their spells around him, and he will content himself with wasting and 
 squandering the precious hours of youth, (which are truly the wealth of future re- 
 membrance,) in the pursuit of the phantom pleasure, which will forever, like 
 Creusa's ghost, fly from his embrace. In the East the professions are over-stocked, 
 and it is indeed distressing in our large eastern cities to see the large number of 
 professional young men, without any employment to occupy their time — frittering 
 away the powers of their intellect, and acquiring habits that will inevitably tend 
 to prevent attaining either standing or eminence in their profession — when if they 
 would only listen to the voice of reason, and obey its dictates, they might have the 
 certain prospect of advancing the character of their profession — being useful to 
 society — exercising influence on our country, and building up a name 
 
 " That long shall hallow every space, 
 And be each purer soul's high resting place." 
 
 But I find if I continue the subject now, I shall be obliged to trespass on your 
 limits. Adieu. 
 
 Rambler. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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