dllllll ™ ■L HI HMH ■■:;;'!.;::■■■,:•.■:,;::.:■■... WHHii J ■•■■..•'■■ : ;■ ,,■.■■■: ; ' IBI llllii L H % V j % ^ V< V PRACTICAL AMERICA! COOKERY AND DOMESTIC ECOIOMY. COMPILED BY ELIZABETH M. HALL. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK AND AUBURN: MILLEK, ORTON & MULLIGAN. New York : 25 Park Row — Auburn : 107 Genesee-st. 185G. <* Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, BY MILLER, ORTON & MULLIGAN, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Northern District of New York. aububn: MILLER, ORTON £ MULLIGAN, STEEEOTYPERS AND TEIXTERS. CONTENTS. [A complete General Index to the Eecipes embraced in each of the following Chapters, will be found at the end of this Vo'ume.] COOKERY. chapter. page. Introduction, ..... 5 I. On Carving, . . . . . 11 II. Soups, ...... 32 III. Beef, ..... 47 IV. Veal, ...... 62 V. Mutton, . . . . . 69 VI. Lamb, ...... 76 VII. Pork, ...... 79 VIII. Poultry, . . . . .88 IX. Game, &c, . . . . 97 X. Salt and Fresu "Water Fish, . . .103 XL Sauces, . . . . 121 XII. Vegetables, Salads, ver it. 12 PRACTICAL COOKERY. In serving fish, some nicety and care must be exercised ; here lightness of hand and dexterity of management is necessary, and can only be acquired by practice. The flakes which in such fish as salmon and cod are large, should not be, broken in serving, for the beauty of the fish is then destroyed, and tin- appetite for it injured. In addition to the skill in the use of the knife, there is also required another description of knowl- edge, and that is an acquaintance with the best parts of the joints, fowl or fish, beffig carved. Thus, in a haunch of veni- son, the fat, which is a favorite, must be served with each slice ; in the shoulder of mutton there are some delicate cuts in the under part. The breast and wings are the best parts of a fowl ; the trail of a woodcock on a toast is the choicest part of the bird. In fish, a part of the roe should accompany the piece offish served. An Aitch-bone of Beef. This is a simple joint to carve, but the slices from it must be cut quite even, and of a very moderate thick- P ness. When the joint is boiled, before cutting Altcb - Bone - to serve, remove a slice from the whole of the upper part, of sufficient thickness, say a quarter of an inch, in order to arrive at the juicy part of the meat at once. Carve from a to b ; let the slices be moderately thin not too thin ; help tat with the lean in one piece, and give a little additional fat, which you will find below c ; the solid fat is at a, and must be cut in slices horizontally. The round of beef is carved in the same manner. Piibs of Beef. There are two modes of carving this joint; the first, which is now becoming common, and is easy to an amateur carver, is to cut across the bone commencing in the ON CARVING. 13 center, and serving fet from a, as marked in the engraving of the sirloin, or it should be carved in slices from a to b. Oc- casionally the bones are removed, and the meat formed into a fillet ; it should then be carved as a round of beef. The Sirloin of Beef. The under part should be first served, and carved as indicated in the engrravmtr, across the bone. In carv- ing the upper part Sirloin of Beef. the same directions should be followed as for the ribs, carving either side, from a to b.. __ Fillet of Veal. Cut a slice off the whole of the upper part in the same way as from a round of beef; this being, if well roasted, of a nice brown, should be helped in small Fillet of Veal. pieces with the slices you cut for each person. The stuffing is skewered in the flap, and where the bone comes out there is some placed ; help this with the meat with a piece of the fat. Neck of Veal. fiEJWere you to at- ■ , £i tempt to carve each fo chop, and serve it, vou would not on- ly place a gigantic Neck of Veal. piece upon the plate of the person you intended to help, but you would waste much 14 PRACHCAL COOKERY time ; and should the vertebras not have been jointed by the butcher, you would find yourself in the position of the ungraceful carver, being compelled to exercise a degree of strength which should never be suffered to appear ; very possibly, too, assisting gravy in a manner not contemplated by the person unfortunate enough to receive it. Cut diagonally from b to a, and help in slices of moderate thickness ; you can cut from c to d in or- der to separate the small bones ; divide and serve them, having first inquired if they are desired. The Breast of Veal. Sepa- ^_ rate the ribs from the brisket, cut* a tinij from b to A : | these si nail bones, which are much Breast of Veal. the sweetest and mostly chosen, you will cut as at ddd, and serve ; the long ribs are divided as at c c c, and having ascertained the preference of the person, help accordingly ; at good tables the scrag is not served, but is found, when properly cooked, a very good stew. Loin of Veal. This joint is sent to table served as a sir- loin of beef. Having turned it over, cut out the kidney and the fat, return it to its proper position, and carve it as in the neck of veal, from b to a ; help with it a slice of kidney and fat. The kidney is usually placed upon a dry toast when re- moved from the joint. Shoulder of Veal is sent to table with the under part placed uppermost. Help it as a shoulder of mutton, beginning at the knuckle end. ON CARVING. 15 Calf's Head. There is much more meat to be obtained from a calf's head by carv- ing it one way than another. Carve Half of Calf s Head. f rom A to B, Cut- ting quite down to the bone. At the fleshy part of the neck end you will find the throat sweetbread, which you can help a slice of with the other part ; you will remove the eye with the point of the knife and divide it in half, helping those to it who profess a preference for it ; there are some tasty, gelatinous pieces around it which are palatable. Remove the jaw bone, and then you will meet with some fine flavored lean ; the palate, which is under the head, is by some thought a dainty, and should be proffered when carving. Leg of Mutton. The under or thick- est part of the leg should be placed up- permost, and carved in slices moderately thin from b to c. Many persons have a taste for the knuckle, Leg of Mutton. an( j jf p re f e rred, it should be helped. When cold, the back of the leg should be placed uppermost, and thus carved ; if the cramp bone is re- quested, and some persons regard it as a dainty, hold the shank with your left hand, and insert your knife at d, passing It round to e, and vou will remove it. 16 PRACTICAL COOKERY. A Shoulder of Mut- ton. It should be served and eaten very hot. It is sent to table lying on the dish as shown in the an- nexed engraving. Com- mence carving from a to b, taking out moderately thin slices in the shape of a Shoulder of Mutton. a wedge ; some nice pie- ces may then be helped from the blade bone, from c to b, cut- ting on both sides of the bone. Cut the fat from d, carving it in thin slices. Some of the most delicate parts, however, lie on the under part of the shoulder ; take off thin pieces horizon- tally from b to c, and from a; some tender slices are to be met with at d, but they must be cut through as indicated. The shoulder of mut- ton is essentially a joint of tit-bits, and,, therefore, when carving it, the tastes of those at the table should be consulted. It is a very insipid joint when cold, and should, therefore, be hashed if sent to table a a Shoulder of Mutton. second time. The Loin of Mutton, if small, should be carved in chops, beginning with the outer chop ; if large, carve slices the whole length. A neat way is, to run the knife along the chine bone and under the meat along the ribs, it may then be cut in slices, as shown in the engraving of the saddle of mutton below; by this process flit and lean are served together ; your knife should be very sharp, and it should be done cleverly. ON CARVING. 17 Neck of Mutton, if the scrag and chine bone are removed, is carved in the direction of the bones. The Scrag of Mutton should be separated from the ribs of the neck, and when roasted, the bones helped with the meat. Saddle of Mutton. The tail end is divi- ded in the en- graving, and the 5|gll li|g kidneys skew- ered under each division ; this is a matter of taste, Saddle of Mutton. an( j j g not a J_ ways done. Carve from a to b in thin slices ; help fat from c to d. You may help from the vertebras on both sides of the loin, and then carve cross-wise as marked in the engraving, which gives you both fat and lean ; help a slice of kidney to those who desire it. Haunch of Mutton is carved as haunch of venison. Fore Quar- ter of Lamb. Place your fork near the knuckle and cut from a to c, to b, and Fore Quarter of Lamb. On to D ; pass your knife under, lifting with the fork at the same time. The juice of half a lemon which has been sprinkled with salt and pepper, is then squeezed under the shoulder, and a slice of fresh butter placed there, also ; the parts are reunited until the but- ter is melted, and the shoulder is then placed in a separate dish ; separate the neck from the ribs, from e to d, and then 18 PRACTICAL COOKERY. help to the breast o, or the neck f, according to the palate of your guest. Haunch of Ven- ison. Have the dish placed before you so that the loin is nearest to you, and the knuckle Hannch of Venison. farthest | then Cut from a to b, sufficiently near the knuckle to prevent the es- cape of any gravy ; then make your first cut from c to a, with a slanting cut, and let each succeeding slice be sloping, so that all the gravy may be retained in the hollow thus formed; the fat will be found at the left side, and must be served with the meat. Neck of Venison, should be carved across the ribs, as in the neck of veal, or lengthwise, from one end of the neck to the other. Pork. The leg when sent to table should be placed with the back uppermost, and the crackling be removed ; if suffi- ciently baked, this may be done with ease; the meat should be served in thin slices, cut across the leg, the crackling being served with it, or not, according to taste ; the loins are cut into the pieces as scored by the butcher. Ham. It is served as placed in the engra- ving, and should come to table ornamented. Carve from a to b, cut- ting thin slices. Ham. ON CARVING. 19 Boiled Tongue. Carve across the tongue in thin slices. Roast Pig. The cook should send a roast pig to table as displayed here, garnished with head and ears ; carve the joints in direction shown by the lines in the diagram, then Boast Pig. divide the ribs; serve with plenty of sauce ; should one of the joints be too much, it may be separated : bread sauce and stuffing should accompany it. An ear and the jaw are favorite parts with many people. Babbit. Cut slices from b to a of moderate thickness. When the rabbit is young, you can, after removing the shoulders and legs, cut across the back, and divide it into several pieces ; this is not practicable with a full grown rabbit, unless it is boned. The shoulders and legs are easily removed by placing the knife between them, and turning them back, the joint will dis- close itself, and can then be separated. The head should not be removed until the last ; divide it from the neck, remove the lower jaw, then cut through the division which appears from the nose to the top of the skull and lay it open. The stuffing should be given with whatever portion may be helped. Roast Hare is carved in the same manner. Babbit 20 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Boiled Rabbit. Re- move the legs and shoulders ; they very easily separate. Di- vide the back into two parts by holding the Boiled Rabbit fork firmly in the back, and passing the knife underneath near the middle, and bending it back. The most tender part is on the loins ; the meat there is of a very delicate flavor ; liver should be helped with it. Roast Chickens and Tur- key. These, especially the latter, require skillful carving, and both observation and practice are necessary to per- form the operation satisfacto- Remove the wings, cutting from d to b, and separating the joints with the edge of your knife. Make a short cut in a downward direction at right angles with the drumsticks, then cut from a between the legs and side, toward the wings; press back the legs with the blade of the knife, and the joint will disclose itself; if young it will part, but at best, if judiciously managed, will require but a nick where the joints unite. Divide the thighs from the drumsticks, and here an instrument termed a disjoin ter, will be found a r- viceable. Then carve slices lengthwise, from each side of the breast. Next remove the merrythought and neck-bones by inserting the knife and piercing it under the bones, raising it, when they will readily separate from the breast. Divide the breast from the body by cutting backwards on each side through the small ribs down to the vent. Take off the side bones, turn the back uppermost, put your knife into about the Roast FowL rily to yourself- and others. ON CARVING. 21 center between the neck and rump, raise the lower part firmly, yet gently, and it will easily separate. In separating the thigh from the drum- stick, you must insert the knife exactly at the joint as we have indicated in the engraving ; this, however, will be found to require practice, for the joint must be accurately hit, or else much difficulty will be experienced in getting the parts asunder. Boiled Fowls are carved in the same way as roast. Boiled Fowl (breast) Boiled Fowl (back.) Buoiled Chickens are carved by simply dividing them into quarters ; dividing them first lengthwise through the breast, and then across between the wing and leg. Goose Roast. Geese. Follow with your knife the lines marked in the engraving, a to b, and cut slices, then remove the wing, and if . the party be large, the legs must also be removed, and here the disjointer will again prove ser- viceable. The stuffing will be obtained by making an insertion ate. 22 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Pheasant. Clear the leg by inserting the edge of the knife between it and the body ; then take off the wings, b to a, but do not remove much of the breast with them ; you are thus enabled to obtain some nice slices ; the pheasant is then carved as a fowl. The breast is first in estimation, then the wings, and after these the merry-thought ; lovers of game pre- fer a leg. A Pheasant. Guinea Fowl are carved in the same manner. Partridge. Separate the legs, and then divide the bird into three parts, leav- ing each leg and wing together. The breast is then divided from the back, and helped whole, the latter being assisted with any of the other parts. W hen the party consists entirely of gentlemen, the bird is divided into two by cutting right through from the vent to the neck. Quails, Reed-Birds, and all small birds, are served whole. Grouse and Plover are carved as partridges. Snipe and Woodcock are divided into two parts ; the trail being served on a toast. Wild Duck and Widgeon. The breast of these fowls be- ing the best portion, is carved in slices, which, being removed, a glass of old port made hot is poured in; the half of a lemon seasoned with cayenne and salt, should then be squeezed in the slices, relaid in their places, and then served, the joints being removed the same as in other fowl. Partridge. ON CARVING. 23 Pigeon. Like wood- cock, these birds are cut in half, through the breast and back, and helped. Pigeon (breast.) Pigeon (back.) FISH. and Fork. Fish should never be carved with steel ; helping requires more care than knowledge ; the principal caution is to avoid breaking the flakes. In carving a piece A of salmon, as here engraved, cut thin slices, as from a to b, and help with it pieces of the belly, in the direc- tion marked from d to c ; the best flavored is the up- Middle cut of Salmon. per or thlclc part. The white fish and trout of our northern lakes are carved in the same way. Also sheephead, when large ; when small, they are cut right through. 24 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Turbot. Cut flat pieces as marked in the engra- ving, without moving the bone ; the fin, which is es- teemed a delicacy, is al- ways served with it. Turbot. All fiat fish are carved in the same manner: flounders are cut either in halves, or, if very large, are divided into three, cutting right through. Cod's Head and Shoulders. Carry the knife from a to b, and then along the line, to c ; help slices, ac- companied by some of the sound, which is to be found lining the back, and which you may ob- tain by passing the knife under the back-bone at c ; serve also a piece of cod's Head. liver. Many choice parts lie in this dish, and by inquiry you will soon ascertain the parts preferred. The jaw-bone, from its gelatinous nature, is considered by some a dainty, and the head generally, inclu- ding eyes and palate, is a favorite with many. Haddock. It is dressed whole, unless unusually large. When sent to table it is split its whole length, and served one- half the head to the tail of the other part; it is carved across. ON CARVING. 25 Mackerel should always be sent to table head to tail. First cut off the head, then divide the meat from the bone by cutting down the back lengthwise; the upper part is the best. All small fish, such as herrings, perch, smelts, mullets, &c, are served whole. A dish of Mackerel. BEEF. A Bullock marked as cut in the joints by the Butcher. A Sirloin. B Rump. C Aitchbone. D Buttock. E Mouse Buttock. F Veiny piece. G Thick Flank. H Thin Flank. I Leg. K Fore Ribs, containing five ribs. L Middle Rib, containing four ribs. M Chuck Rib, containing three ribs. N Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton piece. O Brisket. P Clod. Q Neck, or Sticking piece. R Shin. S Cheek. The baron of beef is formed of the pieces marked a, b, united on both sides. B 26 PRACTICAL COOKERY. VEAL. The calf is divided into joints by the butcher, upon a system which unites the methods employed for cutting up both beef and mutton. A The Loin (best end.) B The Loin (chump end.) C The Fillet. D The Hind Knuckle. E The Fore Knuckle. F Xeck (best end.) G Neck (scrag.) H Blade Bone. I Breast (best end.) K Breast (Brisket.) PORK. The Pig is thus divided : A The Fore Loin. C The Belly, or Spring. B The Hind Loin. D The Hand. E The Leg. The spare rib is under the shoulder, which, when removed in a porker, leaves part of the neck without a skin upon it, forming the spare rib. The head is much liked by many, and appears at table dressed in various ways. OX CARVING. MUTTON. 27 The sheep is thus apportioned by butchers : A The Leg. E Neck (scrag end.) B Loin (the best end.) F Shoulder. C Loin (chump end.) G Breast. D Neck (best end.) VENISON. A Haunch. B Neck. C SEoulder. D Breast. Buck and Doe Venison are cut up in similar fashion. 28 PRACTICAL COOKERY. TO CHOOSE MEATS. Venison. The choice of venison should be regulated by the appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is young, looks bright, thick, clear, and close. It first changes toward the haunches. To ascertain whether it is sweet, run a knife into that part ; if tainted, it will have a rank smell. Beef. True, well-fed beef will exhibit an open grain of deep- coral-red, and the flit will appear of a healthy, oily smooth- ness, rather inclining to white than yellow. The suet firm and white. Yellow fat is a test of meat of an inferior quality. Heifer beef is but little inferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the red paler, and the fat whiter. Veal. When you observe the kidney well surrounded with fat, you maybe sure the meat is of a good quality. The whitest is not the best veal. There is a vein in the shoulder very perceptible, and its color indicates the freshness of the meat ; if a bright red or blue, it is recently killed ; if any green or yellow spots are visible, it is stale. Mutton. The best is of a fine grain, a bright color, the fat firm and white. It is better for being full grown. Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In the fore quarter, the vein in the neck being any other color than blue, betrays it to be stale. In the hind quarter, try the kidney with your nose ; *he faintness of its smell will prove it to be stale. Pork. In young pork the lean when pinched will break ; the thickness and toughness of the rind shows it to be old. In fresh pork the flesh is firm, smooth, a clear color, and the fat set. When stale, it looks clammy and flabby. Meosly pork may be detected by the kernels in the fat ; it should not •-e eaten. Bacon. Excellent young bacon may be thus known — the lean will be tender and of a brisiht color ; the fat firm and white, yet bearing a pale rose tinge ; the rind thin, and the ON CARVING. 29 lean lender to the touch. Rusty bacon has yellow streaks in it. Hams. The test of a sweet ham is to pass a sharp knife to the bone, and when drawn out, smell it ; if the knife is daubed greasy, and the scent disagreeable, it is bad. A good ham will present an agreeable smell when the knife is withdrawn. TO CHOOSE POULTRY AND GAME. Turkey. The cock bird when young has a smooth, black leg with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist, supple feet when fresh ; the absence of these signs denotes age and staleness. Fowls like a turkey ; the young cock has a smooth leg and a short spur ; when fresh the vent is close and dark. Hens, when young, have smooth legs and combs ; when old these will be rough ; a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a poll comb and a swelling breast. Geese. In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and free from hair. When fresh the feet are pliable ; they are stiff when stale. Ducks may be selected by the same rules. Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm ; if discolored and supple they are stale. Plovers, when fat, have hard vents ; but, like almost all other birds, may be chosen by the above rules. Hares and Rabbits. When young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is narrow, the body stiflfj the ears tear easily, and the claws are smooth and sharp ; when old and stale they will be the opposite of this. Partridges. Yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by which a young bird may be known, and a rigid vent when fresh. When this part is green the bird is stale. .30 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Pheasants may be chosen as above ; the young birds are known by the short or round spur, which in the old is long and pointed. Moor Game. Grouse, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, &c, may be chosen by the rules above given. TO CHOOSE FISH. Turbot. When good are thick, and the belly is white with a faint yellow tinge. Salmon. The fish stiff, the scales very bright, the belly thick, the gills a brilliant color, and the flesh when cut a beau- tiful red, will prove it to be a fine, fresh fish. It cannot be too fresh. Cod. The best fish are thick at the neck, very red gills, firm, white flesh, bright, and blood-shot eyes, and small head. Herrings. Very red gills, blood shot eyes, wry bright scales, and the fish stiff, shows them to be good and fresh. Flounders should be thick and firm, the eyes bright. Mackerel. Bright eyes, thick bodies, the prismatic colors very predominant on the belly, denote freshness and goodness. Pike, Trout, Perch, Smelts, Gudgeons, &c, may be judged by the above rules. Mullet. The red are preferred to the gray, and the sea to the river. They are a delicious fish when properly cooked. 1 Eels. They should be alive when purchased. SHELL FISH. Lobsters. To be had in perfection should be boiled at home; choose the heaviest. When they are boiled, the tail, should have a good spring; the cock lobster has a narrow tail in which the two uppermost fins are stiff and hard ; the hen ON CARVING. 31 has a broad tail, and these fins are softer. The male has the best flavor ; the flesh is firmer, and the color when boiled is brighter than the hen. Crabs, like lobsters, should be selected by weight ; when prime, the leg-joints are stiff and the scent pleasant. Shrimps should be bright and the bodies firm and stiff; when they are limp' and soft they are stale. Oysters. There are many sorts of oysters; when the oys- ter is alive the shell will close upon the knife. Fresh Fish, when boiled, should be placed in cold, and shell-fish in boiling water. Fish should be garnished with celery, parsley or hard boiled eggs cut in rings, and laid around the dish, and served with no other vegetable but potatoes. CHAPTER II. SOUPS. There is no dish, perhaps, that comes to table which gives such general satisfaction as well prepared soup ; let the appe- tite be vigorous or refined, an excellent soup will always prove grateful to it ; and as this is beyond contradiction, it should be the province of the cook to be always in a position to produce it at a short notice. There should always be plenty of dried herbs in the store closet. They may be very well kept, as indeed they are, usu- ally, in paper bags ; they should all be labeled. There should be a saucepan, or kettle of iron well tinned, kept for soup only ; remember the lid should fit tightly, and the vessel be perfectly clean. The spices and other condiments used to give flavor to soups, should be so nicely proportioned, that none predominate. Onions and garlic should be used sparingly. Skim the soup thoroughly when it first begins to boil, or it can never afterward be rendered clear ; throw in some salt, which will assist to bring the scum to the surface, and when it has all been taken off, add the herbs and vegetables. Inferior pieces of meat, such as the neck or scrag, and knuckle bone, are used in making soup. Remains of cooked meats, may be thus used. When too fat, the grease must be skim- med o(f before adding the vegetables. Boil the soup gently, over a moderate fire, and when well skimmed, draw it to the side of the stove, and keep it simmer- ing till done. soups. 33 The greens and vegetables for soup must be carefully pre- pared, that is, picked clean and washed. Those mostly used are carrots, onions, parsley, turnip, celery, tomatoes, ochras, cabbage, cauliflower, green beans, peas, and potatoes. The proportion may be as follows : An onion, a large carrot, a bunch of parsley, and two tur- nips ; one head of celery, an onion, two small turnips, and five or six small potatoes ; or five or six tomatoes skinned and the seeds squeezed out, one onion, a bunch of parsley, and five or six potatoes cut small ; or carrot, cabbage, turnip, tomatoes, and potatoes. With lamb, use green peas and new potatoes. In the preparation of vegetables, carrots, turnips, onions and potatoes should be cut into thin slices, and nfay be quartered, if preferred ; cabbage should be shaved thin, and celery should be cut in lengths of half an inch. Pearl barley, rice flour, or rice may be used to thicken. Except for white soups, to which arrow-root is, we think, more appropriate, we prefer, to all other ingredients generally used for this purpose, the finest and freshest rice-flour, which after being passed through a lawn-sieve, should be thoroughly blended with the salt, pounded spices, catsup, or wine, required to finish the flavoring of the soup. Sufficient liquid should be added to it very gradually to render it of the consistency of batter, and it should also be perfectly smooth ; to keep it so, it should be moistened sparingly at first, and beaten with the back of a spoon until every lump has disappeared. The soup should boil quickly when the thickening is stirred into it, and be simmered for ten minutes afterward. From an ounce and a half to two ounces of rice-flour will thicken sufficiently a quart of soup. To brown soup, take two lumps of loaf-sugar in an iron spoon ; let it stand on the stove till it is quite black, and put it into soup. B* 3 34 PRACTICAL COOKERY. MEAT SOUPS. WHITE SOUP. Take a knuckle of veal, separated into three or four pieces, a slice of ham as lean as possible, a few onions, thyme, cloves, and mace; stew twelve or fourteen hours until the stock is as rich as the ingredients can make it ; an old fowl will make it much richer, if added. This soup must be made the day be- fore it is required. When removed from the fire, after being sufficiently stewed, let it cool, and then remove the fat; add to it four ounces of pounded blanched almonds, let it boil slowly, thicken it with a half a pint of cream and an egg ; it should boil slowly for half an hour, and then be served. GRAVY SOUP. Take a leg of beef, well wash and soak it, break the bone, and put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, a large bunch of sweet herbs, two large onions sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking great care they are not burut, two blades of mace, three cloves, twenty berries of allspice, and forty of black pepper ; stew till the soup is as rich as you wish it to be ; then take out the meat ; when it is cold take off the fat, heat the soup with vermicelli, and the nicest part of a head of celery boiled and cut to pieces, cayenne, and a little salt ; car- rot may be added with turnip, cut into small pieces, and boiled with spinach, or the herbs without the vermicelli, or vermicelli only ; add also a large spoonful of soy and one of mushroom ketchup; a French roll should be made hot and put into the soup. BEEF GRAVY. Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into pieces, strew some flour over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it into the saucepan with as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little soups. 35 allspice, a little pepper, and some salt; cover it close, and when it boils skim it ; then throw in a small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew it till the' gravy is rich and good ; strain it off, and pour it into a sauce boat. GRAVY CLEAR. Slice some beef thinly ; broil a part of it over a very clear, quick fire, just enough to give color to the gravy, but not to dress it ; put that with the raw into a tinned stewpan with a couple of onions, one or two cloves, whole black pepper, ber- ries of allspice, and a bunch of sweet herbs, cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and skim it two or three times, then cover it, and let it simmer till quite strong. BEEF SOUP. Saw the shin bone of beef weighing four pounds into short pieces, to expose the marrow, which will give richness to the soup. Then wash in cold water. Rub into the meat a table- spoon full each of salt and pepper, well mixed. It is then ready for the pot, in which put four quarts of water. Bring it to a boil over a moderate fire ; then remove whatever scum may have risen, after which cover it close, and set it where it will boil very gently for two hours longer ; then skim it again, and add to it the vegetables, which should be properly prepared, viz : one large carrot, one large turnip, one onion, one bunch of parsley, six small potatoes, and a teacup full of pearl barley ; cover it, and let it boil gently for one hour, at which time add another tablespoon full of salt, and a thickening made of a tablespoon full of wheat flour and a gill of water ; stir it in by the spoon full ; cover it for fifteen minutes, and it is done. The meat may be served with the soup. Remove the bones, and lay it closely and neatly on a dish, and garnish with sprigs of parsley ; serve made mustard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and eaten with mustard and vinegar or catsup. * 36 PRACTICAL CUOKERV. SAGO SOUP. Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice of lean ham, and lay them in a stewpan with a lump of butter ; draw the gravy gently ; add two quarts of water, and a sliced onion which has been browned by frying in fresh butter ; add a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, a blade of mace, a teaspoon full of allspice, and one of black pepper, whole ; stew until the soup is rich and brown ; then remove the meat, and strain the soup clear ; put it into a clean stewpan ; thicken it to a good consistency with sago. I3AKED SOUP. Cut into slices a pound and a half of lean beef, put it into a stewpan or earthen jar, .and two onions sliced, the same num- ber of carrots, cut up ; add also three ounces of rice, which has been soaked two hours previously, and thoroughly washed, a pint of white peas; season with pepper and salt; cover down close, and bake two hours. CURRY SOUP. Cut the meat from an ox-cheek, and soak it well ; put in a stewpan, with three onions cut in slices, and a bunch of pot herbs ; add three quarts of water ; remove the scum frequent- ly, and strain ; add half a pound of soaked rice, one teaspoon full of curry powder, a little pepper and salt, and stew four hours. SOUP AND BOUILLI. Stew a brisket of beef, with some turnips, carrots, onions, and celery, all cut small ; put the beef into the pot first, then the roots ; add a few cloves, and a half pint of beef gravy ; sim- mer an hour ; add sufficient beef gravy to fill the pan ; boil pently for half an hour. soups. 37 hessian soup. Cut into slices three pounds of shin of beef, lay it in a stew- pan, put in three onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint and a quartes of split peas, three heads of celery, some whole pep- per, and salt ; pour in by degrees seven quarts of water ; stew until reduced to half. If the soup alone be required, strain off the vegetables ; if not, serve as cooked. MACCARONI SOUP. To a rich beef or other soup, in which there is no seasoning other than pepper or salt, add half a pound of small pipe mac- caroni ; boil it in clear water until it is tender ; then drain it, and cut it in pieces of an inch length ; boil it for fifteen min- utes in the soup, and serve. FRENCH SOUP. To one quart of milk add, when boiling, about five boiled Irish potatoes, rubbed through a sieve, of which a paste is made ; when the milk and potatoes have boiled up once, add three well beaten eggs, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. If it boils after the eggs are added, it is apt to curdle ; stir it round till it is well mixed, and serve it up. PORTABLE SOUP. There are many advantages connected with this soup, which will present themselves to the lady housekeeper — its constant readiness for use, its forming an excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or soups ; a few minutes will suffice to make a basin of soup from it Take three pounds of beef, a shin of beef, the bones of which should be broken, a cow-heel, and two small knuckles of veal, put them into a stewpan, and add as much water as will barely cover them ; put in three onions, and seasoning to taste ; stew the meat to ribbons ; strain, and then put it in the coldest 38 PRACTICAL COOKERY. place you can command ; when thoroughly cold, take off the fat, and boil it fast in a stewpan without the lid, on a quick fire ; let it boil, and keep it stirred for at least eight hours ; pour it into a pan, and let it stand for twenty -four hours ; then take your largest lip-basin, and turn the soup into it ; boil suf- ficient water in the stewpan to reach as high outside the basin which is placed in it as the soup is inside, but do not let any bubble into the basin ; keep the water boiling until the soup is reduced to a good consistency ; it will then be done ; it should be poured into small jelly-pots, or in saucers, so as to form cakes when cold, and is best preserved in tin canisters, put in dry, cool places. This soup may receive various flavors of herbs, or anything else, by boiling the herbs or other ingredients, and straining them through water, making it boil, and then melt the soup in it. VERMICELLI SOUP. Swell one-quarter of a pound of vermicelli in a quart of warm water ; then add it to a good beef, veal, lamb, or chicken soup or broth, with a quarter of a pound of sweet butter ; let the soup boil for fifteen minutes after it is added. MUTTON SOUP. Cut a neck of mutton into four pieces ; put it aside ; take a slice of the gammon of bacon, and put it in a saucepan with a quart of peas, with enough water to boil them ; let the peas boil to a pulp, and strain them through a cloth; put them aside ; add enough water to that in which is the bacon to boil the mutton ; slice three turnips, as many carrots, and boil for an hour slowly ; add sweet herbs, onions, cabbage, and let- tuces, chopped small ; stew a quarter of an hour longer, sufficient to cook the mutton ; then take it out ; take some fresh green peas, add them with some chopped parsley, and soups. 39 the peas first boiled, to the soup ; put in a lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew till the green peas are done. CHICKEN BROTH. Joint a chicken, wash the pieces, put them into a stewpan with three pints of water, and add two ounces of rice, two or three blades of mace, some white pepper, whole, and a pinch of salt ; let it come to a boil, skim frequently, simmer for three hours ; boil for five minutes in the soup some vermicelli, and serve with it in the soup. EGG DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP. To a half pint of milk put two well-beaten eggs, and as much wheat flour as will make a smooth, rather thick batter, free from lumps ; drop this batter, a tablespoon full at a time, into boiling soup. EGG BALLS FOR SOUP. Take the yolk of six hard boiled eggs and half a tablespoon full of wheat flour; rub them smooth with the yolk of two raw eggs and a teaspoon full of salt ; mix all well together ; make it into balls, and drop them into the boiling soup a few minutes before taking it up. SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. PIGEON SOUP. Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons you can get, roast them only sufficient to warm them through ; cut the meat from the bones ; flour the latter well, and pound them in a mortar ; stew them in a pint and a half of good gravy ; add a piece of butter rolled in flour, a few onions, parsley, and a few turnips and carrots sliced ; season with cayenne and one blade of mace ; boil slowly two hours ; pour and pass through a cul- lender ; rub through a sieve, and then with the flesh of the 40 PRACTICAL COOKERY. pigeons put them into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour, and serve. PARTRIDGE SOUP. When you have a brace of partridges which prove to be re- markably old, convert them into soup ; skin and cut them up ; cut a handsome slice of ham, as lean as possible, and divide it into four, or cut as many thin slices, put them in the pan ; add the partridges, with an onion sliced, some celery, and four ounces of butter ; brown nicely, without burning ; put them into the stewpan, with one quart and a pint of water ; throw in a few white peppers whole, a shank of mutton ; salt it to pal- ate, and strain ; add stewed celery, fried bread, and previous to its boiling, skim very clean, and serve up. CHICKEN SOUP. Boil two pounds of veal or lamb, and one small chicken ; cut up in three quarts of water; skim it clear ; slice two white onions, grate two small carrots, and put to the soup ; add two tablespoons full of salt, and one of pepper ; let it boil gently for nearly two hours ; then add a tablespoon full of butter, and the same of flour worked together ; cover it for fifteen minutes, and serve it in a tureen. Place the chicken in a deep dish; add butter and pepper to it, and serve, garnished with sprigs of parsley ; the meat may be made into balls, and put in the soup ; chop it fine ; add a tablespoon full of butter and flour each, and a saltspoon full of pepper, with one beaten egg ; dip your hands in flour, and make the preparation in balls ; drop them into soup with the butter and flour. calf's head soup. Boil the head, liver, tongue, brains, &c, the day before wish- ing to use it ; take it, when perfectly tender, out of the liquor, Rnd aet it away to cool ; skim the liquor while boiling. Take soups. 41 all the bones from the meat ; cut it in small pieces ; put it into the liquor, with salt, pepper, sweet marjoram, cloves, and a little cayenne ; boil two hours, then add a pint of red wine. Boil ten eggs hard ; take five and braid with a little flour and butter, to thicken the soup ; the other five cut in slices to gar- nish the soup. While the head is cooking, keep a teakettle of water boiling, to replenish the pot with. For a small fam- ily the head maybe served the first day as a plain, boiled dish, with drawn butter. There will be enough left for a good soup. FISH SOUPS. EEL SOUP. Take any number of pounds of eels, according to the quan- tity required ; add two-thirds water ; if about three or four pounds of eels, add one onion, a small quantity of mace, a lit- tle pepper whole, sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of bread ; cover down close ; stew till the fish separates ; strain. Toast slices of bread deep brown, but not to burn ; cut into triangu- lar pieces or squares a piece of carrot two inches long, cut into four slices lengthwise ; put into a tureen with the toast ; pour the soup on ; boiling cream may be added, thickened with a little flour, but it should be rich enough without it. CLAM SOUP. Fifty large or one hundred small clams will be sufficient. In removing them from the shell, carefully preserve the liquor, which should be strained, and to it add a quart of milk and water each ; if the clams are large, cut each in two, and put them into it ; set them over a moderate fire until the clams are tender, (about one hour ;) skim it clear ; put to it half a pound of soda crackers, broken small, or half a pound of butter crack- ers, rolled fine ; cover the pot for ten minutes ; then add quar- ter of a pound of sweet butter, and serve hot. 42 PRACTICAL COOKERY. LOBSTER SOUP. Extract the meat from the shells of four hen lobster have been boiled ; put the spawn aside ; beat the fins and small claws in a mortar; then place both in a saucepan, with two quarts of water, until the whole goodness of the fish has been drawn ; then strain the liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a lump of flour, and butter ; rub it through a sieve into the soup previously strained ; simmer without boiling, that the color may be preserved, ten minutes ; squeeze in the piece of a lemon, with a little of the essence of anchovies. When this dish is sent to table as a feature, forcemeat balls are served with it ; they are made of minced lobster, spawn, crumb of French roll, egg, and mace pounded ; roll it in flour, and serve in the soup. OYSTER SOUP. Mix three pints each of milk and water. Half a pound of butter crackers, or soda biscuit (rolled fine) should be added with a pint of oysters, (chopped fine,) when the milk and water comes to a boil. Let it boil until the flavor of the oyster is given to the soup, and the crackers are well swelled ; then add salt and pepper to taste, and three pints more of the oysters, with a quarter of a pound of sweet butter ; cover it for ten minutes more, then serve it in a tureen. VEGETABLE SOUPS. VEGETABLE SOUP. There are numerous methods of making this soup, the vari- ations depending upon the omission or addition of certain vegetables, and in the mode of serving the soup, with them or without them. The following is as simple and as palatable as any. Collect whatever vegetables are in season ; take equal quan- soups. 43 tities turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, onion, a little mint, &c. ; add plenty of herbs ; cut them fine ; put them into the stewpan ; stew gently until the vegetables become ten- der, then add two quarts of boiling water ; stew a quarter of an hour, and serve. Some cooks advocate the introduction of peas, green or white, to this soup ; where they are used, they must be boiled until tender, in very little water ; then mashed into a very loose paste ; the vegetables, having been scalded, are then added, and two hours will suffice for stewing ; season it with salt and pepper. Be careful that it does not burn while cooking, or the whole is spoiled. CABBAGE SOUP. Cut your cabbage into four parts, then let them be partly boiled ; squeeze them dry, and place them in a large pan or dish, so that there may be room betwixt each piece of cabbage, to take up soup with a large spoon ; let them boil with as much gravy or stock as will cover them ; let them stew for two hours before dinner, then put a quarter of a pound of butter and a handful of flour into a saucepan, set it over a fire, and, keeping it stirred, add two onions minced, and stir it again ; then add a quart of veal gravy ; boil it a little, and pour it all over the cabbage. If you choose, you may force pigeons with good force-meat, made of veal ; fry them, and then stew them with the cabbage, putting in with them a lit- tle bacon, stuck with cloves ; when it has stewed away, take off the fat, soak bread in your dish with gravy or stock ; place your fowl in the middle, and the cabbage all around ; gar- nish the dish with slices of bacon, and a little cabbage be- tween each slice. 44 PRACTICAL COOKEKV. ASPARAGUS SOUP, WITH GREEN PEAS. Make a soup of roots, and when strained, boil a pint of green peas in the liquor. Choose some middling sized asparagus ; cut them in pieces about three inches long ; blanch them in boiling water, and then throw them into cold water; drain them, and tie them in small bunches ; split the tops, and boil them with the peas. When done, make a porridge of them, and mix it with the root soup, and garnish with the asparagus. Good meat broth may be used instead of the root soup. ASPARAGUS SOUP CLEAB. Blanch two hundred tops of asparagus, and boil them in a good gravy ; serve with slices of bread just hardened by the fire. HOTCH POTCH. Put a pint of peas into a quart of water ; boil them until they are so tender as easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take of the leanest end of a loin of mutton three pounds ; cut it into chops ; put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four turnips, cut in small pieces ; season with pepper and salt. Boil until all the vegetables are quite ten- der ; put in the pulped peas a head of celery, and a sliced onion ; boil fifteen minutes, and serve. ONION SOUP. In two quarts of weak mutton broth, slice two turnips, and as many carrots ; strain it. Fry six onions, cut in slices ; when nicely browned, add them to the broth ; simmer three hours ; skim, and serve. CELERY SOUP. Stew fine, white celery, cut in small slips, in gravy ; then boil it in good gravy. sours. 45 RICE SOUP. Steep some fine rice in cold water for an hour, say four ounces ; then boil it ; add three quarts of gravy ; add a pinch of cayenne, a little salt, and boil five minutes. CLEAR PEA SOUP. Boil in two quarts of gravy a quart of young peas ; add a lettuce, cut fine, and a small sprig of mint. GREEN PEA SOUP. To a small quarter of lamb put six quarts of cold water, and two tablespoons full of salt. Boil gently for two hours; then skim clear ; add a quart of shelled peas, and a little pep- per. Let it boil for half an hour, and then add a quart of young potatoes, scraped. Cover the pot, and let it boil for half an hour longer ; work a quarter of a pound of butter, and a dessertspoon full of flour together, and add them to the soup ten or twelve minutes before taking it off the fire. Serve soup in a tureen, and the meat (with parsley sauce over) on a dish. PEA SOUP. Take one quart of split peas. Put them to soak in a large quantity of water over night. In the morning pour off the water; put them on to boil in a gallon of water. Have a teakettle of boiling water to add, in case it becomes too thick. When the peas are very soft, pour them into a cullen- der, and rub them through with a wooden spoon. Wash the pot that they were boiled in thoroughly, because if any of the peas adhere, they will be apt to burn. Then put them back, and let them boil slowly, over a gentle fire, till they are suffi- ciently thick. Take a pound of nice salt pork ; boil it in a separate ket- 40 PRACTICAL COOKERY. tie for an hour ; then put it in with the peas, and let it boil another hour, to season them. Serve the soup in a tureen, and the pork on a dish. Have toasted bread, cut in small pieces, to eat with it. O^"?* CHxVPTER UL BEEF. OBSERVATIONS ON MEATS. In the choice of meats, the ribs, the sirloin and the porter- house pieces are the best for roasting. The best steaks are the sirloin and porter-house. The round, or buttock, the edge- bone, the second round, or mouse-buttock, the shin, the brisket, the shoulder, or leg of mutton piece, and the clod may be boiled or stewed. The neck is generally used for soup or gravy ; and the thin flank for collaring. Meat intended to be kept a few days in hot weather, should not be salted. Dry it well in a clean cloth, rub ground pep- 48 PRACTICAL COOKERY. per plentifully over every part of it first, then flour it well, and hang it in a cool, dry place where the air will come to it ; be sure always that there is no damp place about it ; when you find any, dry it with a cloth ; pepper will secure meat from flies. If the meat has to be roasted, a clear fire is indispensable ; and the fire should also be maintained at one uniform heat by the addition of coal, only in small quantities. If the joint is large, it should be commenced as far from the fire as the ap- paratus will permit, and as it progresses, gradually be moved nearer the fire until done ; this will ensure, in large and thick joints, the heart of the meat being properly done, while it prevents the outer parts from being cooked to a chip. A small joint should have a brisk fire, should be well basted, as also larger joints; it should be sprinkled with salt, and dredged with flour when three parts cooked, but it should be remem- bered that this must not be left until the meat is just cooked, for the fire is apt to catch the flour, and give it a most disa- greeable flavor. The time necessary for cooking a joint must depend, of course, upon the weight of the joint to be roasted ; experience gives not less than fifteen minutes to each pound of meat ; where the quantity is very large an extra two or three minutes must be given. In boiling meat, as much attention must be paid as in other process ; if the joint be permitted to boil too rapidly, the cook may be satisfied the meat will go to table as liard as it could be wished to be tender ; if while cooking it should be allowed to stop boiling, it will prove underdone when cut, even though more than the usual time be allowed for it to be cooked. The meat generally is better for being soaked a short time, and then wrapping it in a cloth well floured, if fresh ; if salt, the water should be kept free from scum as fast as it appears. All joints to be boiled should be put into cold water and heated gradu- BEEF. 49 ally, arid nothing boiled with it save a dumpling, or if beef, carrots or parsnips. ROAST MEATS. In every case where meat is washed before roasting, it should be well dried before it is put down to the fire. As soon as the fat begins to fall from the meat, put down a clean dish and then baste with the dripping as it falls ; the meat should not be sprinkled with salt until nearly cooked, or too much gravy will be produced. Preserve the dripping ; pour it from the dish into some boiling water ; leave it to cool. When cold it will be hard, white, and all the impurities will be deposited at the bottom. It occasionally happens that the joint cannot be sent to table as soon as cooked ; in such case place it on a dish upon a fish kettle of boiling water ; place over it a dish cover, and spread over all a cloth ; the meat will thus be kept as hot as if placed before a fire, but will not be dried, nor will the gravy be evaporated. BOILING. The learned in the art of boiling recommend different times for the completion of the process, some allowing fifteen minutes to each pound, others twenty. All the best authorities agree in this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation. When taken from the pot be careful not to let the meat stand, but send it to table as quick as possible, or it will darken and become hard. Boiled meat, as well as roast, cannot be served too hot. Soft water is preferable to hard, for boiling, The meat should be put in cold water, and not in hot, unless for a special purpose, as that renders it dark and hard. All meats are best cooked by boiling gently, as fast boiling spoils the meat and does it no quicker. Salted meats should most particularly be slowly boiled— ^in fact it should scarcely simmer ; it is indis C 4 50 PRACTICAL COOKERY. pensable that the water should cover the meat, consequently the dimensions of the pot should be suited to the bulk of the joint. The instant the pot boils, it should be skimmed con- stantly. BROILING. The cook must prepare her fire in due time. When ready, it should be clear and bright, so clear from black coal and smoke that the chop or steak may come from the gridiron without blemish or taint of sulphur or smoke. The best fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal and coke. No gridiron should be used but those with fluted bars, which, forming chan- nels, the greater part of the fat which otherwise falls into the fire, and scorches the steak, is drawn off into a gutter at the bottom ; the gridiron should be thoroughly heated, and the bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet previously to putting on the steak, to prevent its being marked by, or adhering to, the bars. A close eye should be kept on the steak to watch the moment for turning it, which is repeatedly done during the process. The cook must have her dish thoroughly heated to receive the broil when done, and the cover hot to place upon it instantly. Even when she has accomplished her task, if the servant who is to take it to table loiters on the way, the steak will have lost its zest. A steak or chop should be briskly cooked, speedily conveyed to table, and served with dispatch. ROAST BEEF. There exists a variety of tastes and opinions respecting the most profitable, as well as the choicest, parts of beef, but many of them are choice and profitable, too, if cooked with skill ; the primest parts are roasted, except the round, which should be boiled ; the ribs make the finest roasting joint. Where a small quantity is required, it is better for the bones to be cut out and the meat rolled ; tins should be done by the butcher, who will not only cut cleaner, but skewer the parts BEEF. "51 into a fillet with more firmness and neatness than the cook who is not expected to be as expert with the knife and skewer as the butcher. The tops of the ribs are frequently cut off into pieces of three or four pounds ; this piece, though occa- sionally roasted, should be salted ; it is then not unlike in Savor to the brisket. In roasting the ribs, or any piece of beef, the precautions mentioned respecting placing it too near the fire must be ob- served, and w T here there is much fat, and it is desired to pre- serve it from being cooked before the lean, it may be covered with clean white paper skewered over it ; when it is nearly done the paper should be removed, a little flour dredged over it, and a rich frothy appearance will be obtained. The joint should be served up with potatoes and other vegetables ; the dish should be garnished round the edge with horse-radish scraped into thin curls. This recipe will suffice for all the other roasting parts of beef. TO COLLAR BEEF. Choose the thinnest end of the flank of beef ; it must not be too fat or too lean ; the weight will be from eight to ten pounds ; let it hang in a cool place twenty-four hours ; when the skin appears moist, rub in some coarse brown sugar, and in forty-eight hours afterward you may place it in a pan in which there is a brine, made of three quarters of a pound o J salt and an ounce and a half extract of saltpetre ; rub it well with the brine for a week ; take out the bones, the gristle, and the inner skin. Make a seasoning of sweet herbs, parsley, sage, pepper, ground spice, and salt, cover the beef well with it, roll it in a cloth, and tie firmly and securely with broad tape ; boil it six hours, but boil gently ; take it out, and while hot, without dis- turbing the fastenings, place upon it a weight, that when cold and unrolled it may retain its shape. • 52 PRACTICAL COOKERY. TO COOK THE INSIDE OF A SIRLOIN. Take out the inside of the sirloin in one piece, put it into a stewpan, and sufficient good gravy to cover it, season with mixed spice, pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a spoon full of wal- nut ketchup ; more of the latter may be added, if the quantity made should require it to flavor ; serve with pickled gherkins cut small. FILLET OF BEEF ROASTED. If unaccustomed to the use of the knife, the butcher's aid may be obtained to cut the fillet which comes from the inside of the sirloin, it may be larded or roasted plain ; for high din- ners it is larded ; baste with fresh butter. It must be a large fillet which takes longer than an hour and twenty minutes ; serve with tomato sauce, garnish with horse radish, unless served with currant jelly, then serve as with venison or hare. ALAMODE BEEF. Make a stuffing of a loaf of bread, grated, or rubbed very fine, a large hand full of shred beef suet, a nutmeg, a little thyme and sweet marjoram, mixed with three eggs, and a little pep- per and salt. Make on each side of the beef a number of holes with a sharp knife and press in the stuffing. Put the whole into a pot with three quarts of water, a little mace, whole pepper, some cloves, an onion cut very fine. Stew it over a fire without blaze. When the beef is half done, turn it over, and skim off as much of the fat as is possible. Just before it is suf- ficiently done, mix a little of the liquor with two or three spoons full of flour, half a bottle of red wine, (if a large round or whole one.) Put some sticks or skewers across the bottom of the pot to prevent the beef burning. To make the forced meat balls, take a piece of beef with some suet, chop them well with a little onion, sweet marjoram, thyme, pepper, salt," nutmeg, mace, some crumbs of bread wet with an egg. Make BEEF. 53 the balls and fry them brown ; garnish the dish with them, and some hard boiled eggs. FILLET, OR ROUND OF BEEF SPICED. Get the ribs of beef. Have ready pounded and sifted, some cloves, mace, allspice, pepper, a little saltpetre, and salt ; mix all well together, rub your beef well, then tie it tightly up into a good round fillet ; let it lie for a day or two, then put it into the oven to set the meat, then place it in a stewpan with a little second stock ; put fat bacon at the bottom of the stewpan, and half a pint of port wine, stew it about two hours, according to the size, make a very good sauce, reduce the liquor, and take off all the fat, until sufficient to make the sauce ; season with cayenne pepper and salt ; if approved of, add some hot pickles of different colors, the last thing in the sauce. Add a dust of sugar to your sauce. BEEF OLIVES. Cut into slices about half an inch in thickness, the underdone part of cold boiled, or roast beef, cut a small onion up finely, mix it with some crumbs of bread, powdered with pepper and salt, and cover the slices of meat with them, then roll, and se- cure them with a skewer ; put them into a stewpan, cover them with the gravy from the beef mixed with water, stew gently ; when tender they are done enough; serve them with beef gravy. hunter's beef. Hang for three days a round of beef of twenty pounds ; at the expiration of that time rub it with brine, composed of three ounces of saltpetre, twelve ounces of salt, a spoonful of allspice, one of black pepper, an ounce of coarse brown sugar ; before it is rubbed with this mixture it must be boned, and it must be rubbed well every day, turning, for a fortnight. Whei. 54 PRACTICAL COOKERY. it is to be dressed put it into a stewpan, pour in a pint of wa- ter, shred a quantity of mutton suet, cover the meat with it, Jay over it a thick crust, attaching it around the edge of the pan ; tie over securely with paper, and bake for six hours in an oven moderately heated ; take away the paper and crust, chop some parsley very fine, sprinkle it over the beef, and serve it cold. It will keep some time ; the gravy will make a good flavoring for soups. RUMP STEAK STEWED. Cut a steak about an inch thick with a good bit of fat, fry it over a brisk fire, place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a little good stock, a little port wine, and some chopped mushrooms, stew gently; when tender put into it some good brown sauce, shake it gently about*; dish it, and put scraped or grated horse-radish on the top; if for oysters or mushrooms, see those sauces ; season with salt, cayenne pepper, and sugar. BEEF PALATES. Take as* many as required, let them simmer until they peel, put them in a rich gravy, stew until very tender. son with cayenne, salt, two teaspoons full of mushroom ketcup — serve. BEEF STEAKS BROILED. Be particular that the fire is clear ; it is of no use to attempt to broil a steak over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire ; see that the gridiron is clean, and the bars rubbed with suet preparatory t<> laying on the steak ; when they an- browned, turn them: not be afraid of doing this often, as this is the best plan to pre- serve the gravy. When they are done rub them over with a piece of fresh butter, pepper and salt them, and send them to table with oyster sauce, a dish of nicely cooked greens, and well boiled potatoes. BEEF. 55 BEEF STEAKS ROLLED AND ROASTED. Cut handsome steaks from the rump, and if not sufficiently tender let them be well beaten, make a rich stuffing of equal parts of ham and veal well peppered, stew it for a short time, and pound it in a mortar with bread steeped in milk, a lump of butter, and the yolk of two or three eggs ; spread this force meat over the steaks, roll them up and tie them tightly, roast them before a clear fire. They will occupy an hour and twenty minutes to an hour and a half roasting ; baste well with butter while roasting, and serve with brown gravy. STEWED BEEF STEAKS. Stew the steaks in three parts of a pint of water, to which has been added a bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, an onion stuck with cloves — say three — an anchovy, and a lump of butter soaked in flour, pour over a glass of sherry or Ma- deira, Stew with the pan covered down, until the steaks are tender, but not too much so ; then place them in a fryingpan with enough of fresh butter, hissing hot, to cover them, fry them brown, pour off the fat, and in its place pour into the pan the gravy in which the steaks were stewed ; when the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of a rich consistency, place the steaks in a hot dish, pour the sauce over them. The steaks should be large, the finest from the rump, and have a due pro- portion of fat with them. BEEF KIDNEYS STEWED. Procure a couple of very fine beef kidneys, cut them in sli- ces, and lay them in a stewpan ; put in two ounces of butter, and cut into very thin slices four large onions ; add them, and a sufficiency of pepper and salt, to season well. Stew them about an hour ; add a cup full of rich gravy to that extracted from the kidney. Stew five minutes, strain it, and thicken the 56 PRACTICAL COOKER*. gravy with flour and butter, give it a boil up. Serve with the gravy in the dish. BEEF CAKE. Choose lean beef; it should also be very tender; if a pound, put six ounces of beef suet ; mince freely, and season with cloves, mace, and salt, in fine powder ; put the largest propor- tion of salt, and least of mace ; add half the quantity of the latter of cayenne ; cut into thin slices a pound of bacon, and lay them all round the inside, but not at the bottom of a ba- king dish; put in the meat, pressing it closely down ; cover it with the remaining slices of bacon ; lay a plate over it, face downwards, and upon it something heavy to keep it from shifting. If there be three pounds of beef, bake two hours and a half; remove the bacon, and serve with a little rich gravy. These cakes may be made of mutton, or veal, or venison. BEEF HEART. Wash it very carefully ; stuff it the same as you would a hare ; roast or bake it, and serve with a rich gravy and cur- rant jelly sauce ; hash with the same and port wine. BEEF HEART. Let it be thoroughly well cooked, and the skin removed. Wipe it daily with a clean cloth; stuff it with veal stuffing; roast two hours and a quarter. Make a brown gravy, as for hare, and serve with the gravy and currant jelly. The most pleasant way to the palate of dressing this dish, is to roast the heart for rather less than two hours ; let it get cold ; cut it in pieces, and jug it the same as hare. BEEF COLLOPS. Any part of beef which is tender, will serve to make col- lops : cut the beef into pieces about three inches long ; beat BEEF. 57 them flat; dredge them with flour; fry them in butter; lay them in a stewpan ; cover them with brown gravy ; put in half a small onion minced fine ; a lump of butter rolled in flour to thicken, with a little pepper and salt ; stew without suffering it to boil ; serve with pickles, or squeeze in half a lemon, ac- cording to taste ; serve in a tureen, and hot. BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. Take any quantity of brisket of beef required, say eight or ten pounds ; cover it with water ; stew till tender ; bone the beef and skim off the fat; strain the gravy; add a glass of port wine ; flavor with spice tied in a bag. Have boiled vege- tables ready ; cut them into squares, and garnish the beef from the gravy round it, and serve. STEW OF OX-CHEEK. Clean and wash it well ; cut off the fleshiest parts, and break the bones into an available size ; put it into a stewkettle with enough water to cover it; season with salt; the pepper should be whole, and with a few cloves, and a blade of mace tied in a bag made of muslin ; put it into the water with three onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen carrots sliced, a head of celery sliced, and four or five turnips of tolerable size ; stew from five to seven hours ; before serving, the meat may be removed, and the gravy thickened and browned ; serve hot, with the meat in the gravy. Shin of beef is very excellent, dressed in this fashion. BEEF SAUNDERS. Wash, and put in a saucepan two pounds of potatoes ; cover them well with water, and throw in a hand full of salt ; let them just reach the boil, but never actually boil until they are done. Peel them, mash them with milk and two ounces of butter ; season with cayenne pepper and salt, and lay in a smooth paste, C* 58 PRACTICAL COOKERY. a sufficiency to cover the bottom of a dish ; upon this lay sli- ces cut a moderate thickness of rare beef, very close together. Pour two tablespoons full of the richest gravy you have over it, and cover with a crust of potatoes, mashed ; bake in a slow oven for five-and-forty-minutes. The meat may be minced for this dish, and, indeed, is usu- ally cooked so for the sake of time ; it occupies half an hour only, or less, in cooking. It can be made of mutton as well as beef, or of pork or beef sausage meat. A BEEF STEW. Take two or three pounds of the rump of beef, cut away all the fat and skin, and cut it into pieces about two or three inches square ; put it into a stewpan, and pour on to it a quart of broth ; let it boil ; sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to taste ; when it has boiled very gently, or simmered two hours, shred finely a large lemon, add it to the gravy, and in twenty minutes pour in a flavoring composed of two tablespoons full of Harvey's sauce ; the juice of the lemon, the rind of which has been sliced into the gravy ; a spoonful of flour, and a lit- tle ketchup ; add at pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one of sherry, or port, a quarter of an hour after the flavoring, and serve. 13EEF HASHED. Take the bones of the joint to be hashed, and break them small ; stew them in a very litttle water, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few onions ; roll a lump of butter in flour, brown it in a stewpan ; pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to be hashed ; cut two small onions in thin slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley shred finely ; stew gently until the meat is hot through, and serve. BEEF. 59 TO DRESS BEEF TONGUES. To dress them, boil the tongue tender ; it will take five hours ; always dress them as they come out of the pickle, un- less they have been very long there ; then tiiey may be soaked three or four hours in cold water ; or if they have been smoked, and hung long, they should be softened, by lying in water five or six hours ; they should be brought to a boil gently, and then simmer until tender. TO STEW A TONGUE. Cut away the root of the tongue, but leave the fat under- neath, and salt for seven days. Put it into a saucepan, and boil gently until tender, and it will peel easily. Put it into a stewpan ; cover it with a rich gravy, into which put a spoon full of mushroom ketchup, one of soy, and half a spoon full of cayenne pepper. Stew in the gravy a few mushrooms, and serve them in the gravy. BEEF SAUSAGES. To three pounds of beef, very lean, put one pound arid a half of suet, and chop very finely ; season with sage in powder, allspice, pepper, and salt ; have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat into them. BEEF BROTH. Take a leg of beef, and wash it clean ; crack the bone in two or three parts ; put it into a pot with a gallon of water ; skim it well ; then put two or three blades of mace in a little bun- dle of parsley, and a crust of bread ; let it boil till the beef is quite tender ; toast some bread, and cut it into dice ; put them into a tureen ; lay in the meat, and pour the soup over it. MARROW BONES. They must be sawn into convenient sizes ; cover the ends with a little dough, made of flour and water, and tie them in 60 PRACTICAL COOKERY. a floured cloth; boil them an hour and a half; serve on a napkin, with dry toast. TRIPE. Take two pound's of fresh tripe, cleaned and dressed by the tripe-dresser ; cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal parts of milk and water ; twenty minutes to half an hour will be long enough. Boil in the same water which boils the tripe four large onions ; the onions should be put on the fire at least half an hour before the tripe is put into the stewpan, and then made into a rich onion sauce, which serve with the tripe. Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, and fried in batter, and served with melted butter. Tripe is cut into slices ; three eggs are beaten up with minced parsley, sweet herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine, parsley, and mushrooms. The tripe is dipped into this mix- ture, and fried in boiling lard. Tripe may be cut into collops, covered with a mixture of parsley, onions, and mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and fried in clarified or fresh butter. Serve mushroom sauce with it. Tripe can be stewed in gravy, in which put parsley, onions, and mushrooms, or in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter. When the tripe is tender it will be done. A lemon may be sent to table with it. After the tripe has been cleaned, boil it perfectly tender ; serve with melted butter. If there is more than required, cut in small pieces, and put in a stone jar, covering it with vinegar and water ; it will keep two or three weeks in a cool place. When wanted, stew like oysters. SMOKED BEEF. One quart of molasses, thick with salt ; one tablespoon full of saltpetre. The meat to be well rubbed with this ; then let it lie three weeks before smoking. • BEEF. 61 POTTED BEEF. To a pound of common salt, put a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and two ounces of coarse sugar. Kub three pounds of lean beef with this, and let it remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain and dry it ; pepper it well with black pepper ; put it into a pan ; cut half a pound of butter in slices, and lay round it ; lay a paste crust over it, and bake it very slowly four hours and a half. Let it get cold, and then cut off the meat, being careful to separate the stringy pieces from it ; pound it in a mor- tar, working up with it four ounces of fresh butter, and some of the gravy from the meat when baked, seasoned with ground allspice, a little mace and pepper. When the meat has been combined with the butter and gravy, until it is worked into an even paste, put it into jars, and cover with clarified butter. CHAPTER IV. VEAL. Veal should be fat, finely grained, white, firm, and not over- grown. It will be found difficult to keep it long. The fillet, the loin, the shoulder, and the best end of the neck, are the parts generally selected for roasting; the breast and knuckle are more usually stewed or boiled. Steaks or cutlets are cut from the les or shoulder. The liver may be cut in slices and fried like beef liver, or broiled and buttered. Boil the head and serve with a sauce, and make soup of the liquor. The head and feet make excel- lent jellies. THE FILLET OF VEAL. The fillet derives much of its pleasant flavor from being stuffed. Veal, in itself, being nearly tasteless, the stuffing should be placed in the hollow place from whence the bone is extracted, and the joint should be roasted a beautiful brown ; it should be roasted gradually, as the meat being solid will re- quire to be thoroughly done through without burning the out- side; like pork, it is sufficiently indigestible without being sent to table and eaten half cooked ; a dish of boiled bacon or ham should accompany it to table, a lemon, also. In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed too near the fire; the fat of a loin, one of the most del- icate joints of veal, should be covered with greased paper; a fillet, also, should have on the caul until nearly cooked enough : the shoulder should be thoroughly boiled ; when nearly done dredge with flour, and produce a fine froth. VEAL. 63 BREAST OF VEAL FORCED. x^fler taking out the tendons and all the rib bones, flatten and trim the veal, spread it all over with force meat ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it ; then roll it tightly up and tie it ; then put it into a cloth and stew it for several hours ; take it up, and take off the cloth and strings ; dry it and glaze it ; put some good sauce. SHOULDER OF VEAL. Remove the knuckle and roast what remains, as the fillet ; it may or may not be stuffed, at pleasure ; if not stuffed, serve with oyster or mushroom sauce; if stuffed, with melted butter. LOIN OF VEAL STEWED. The clump end is the part to stew. Put it well floured into a stewpan with butter ; after the butter has been browned over the fire, brown it, and when a good color, pour in enough veal broth to half cover it ; put in two carrots cut in pieces, an on- ion, a little parsley, and a small bunch of sweet herbs ; stew it two hours and a half; turn it when half done ; when enough, take out the meat, thicken the broth, season it, and pour over the veal. LOIN OF VEAL. Divide the loin, roast the kidney, and place under the fat a toast, and serve swimming in melted butter. The chump end must be stuffed with the same stuffing as the fillet, and served with the same sauce ; those who object to putting the stuffing in the joint, may send it to table with balls of stuffing in the dish. KNUCKLE OF VEAL STEWED. Place your knuckle of veal in a stewpan ; if the knuckle is a very large one, it may be divided into two or three pieces for the sake of conyenience ; put in the pan with it a few blades 64 PRACTICAL COOKERY. of mace, a little thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a burnt crust of bread, and cover with from three to four pints of water ; cover down close, and boil ; when it has boiled, place it by the side of the fire and let it simmer for at least two hours ; take it up, keep it hot while you strain its liquor, then pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with a lemon garnish. NECK OF VEAL May be boiled or roasted — the latter only if it be the best end, and sent to table garnished as in the engraving- 1 — it may be broiled in chops, but is best in a pie. .. VEAL CUTLETS. The cutlets should be cut as handsomely as possible, and about three quarters of an inch in thickness ; they should, be- fore cooking, be well beaten with the blade of a chopper if a proper beater be not at hand ; they should then be fried a light brown and sent up to table, garnished with parsley, and rolls of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon ; they are, with advan- tage, coated, previously to cooking, with the yolk of an egg, and dredged with bread crumbs. VEAL CUTLETS CURRIED. The cutlets may be prepared as for collops by cutting them into shape, dipping them into the yolk of eggs, and seasoning them with fine bread crumbs about four tablespoons full, two spoons full of curry powder, and one of salt ; fry them fn fresh butter ; serve with curry sauce, which may be made with equal parts of curry powder, flour and butter, worked well together into a paste ; put it into the pan from which the cutlets have VEAL. 65 been removed, moisten with a cup full of water, in which cay- enne and salt have been stirred ; let it thicken, and serve very hot. VEAL POT PIE. Prepare the meat, which may be from the breast or scrag, by cutting it in small pieces or chops, and then put it into the pot, adding water to cover, and half a pound of salt pork, or tablespoon full of salt. Boil gently and remove the scum as it rises, until the meat is tender. Place the whole in a dish to cool, and make your crust as follows : Take one quart of flour, two teaspoons full of cream of tartar, one teaspoon full of salt, one of saleratus or soda, a small piece of butter, and mix with milk. Roll out the dough, and line the inside of the pot, reserving enough to cover the pie, and a small quantity to cut into squares to be placed inside. Strain the water in which the meat was boiled, and put it in the pot ; if there is not enough nearly to reach the top of the side crust, add water ; drop in the bits of paste or dough, dredge in a tablespoon full of wheat flour ; add quarter of a pound of butter, cut small, unless pork is stewed with the meat, when half as much butter is enough ; put in a large teaspoon full of pepper ; then lay some skewers across, from one side crust to the other, and put on the top crust ; make a slit in the center to let out the steam ; cover the pot close, and set it over a moderate fire ; three quarters of an hour will bake it ; take care that the fire is not so great as to burn it. Half a dozen small potatoes, nicely peeled, may be put into the pie with the meat. Dish the top crust up first, then take up the meat and gravy on another dish ; and lastly, the brown crust from the sides, on a dish, with some of the gravy over. Or, take the meat into the center of the dish, put the crust around it, and turn the gravy over. Those who prefer, may omit lining the pot with dough. 5 60 PRACTICAL COOKERY. OLIVES OF VEAL — KOTI. Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness from the chump end uf the loin of veal ; beat them and trim them, eight or a dozen, ling to dish : get some slices of ham or bacon, cover the veal with force meat and with the fat, sprinkle between a little chopped mushrooms, pepper and salt; roll each up, and tie and skewer each; then egg and bread crumb them; bake them in the oven with buttered paper over them ; cut the string when done, and before you send them to table, draw the skewer ; put asparagus sauce, tomato, or mushroom in the dish. VEAL COLLOPS May be cooked precisely similar to beef collops. calf's head. Let the head be thoroughly cleaned ; the brains and tongue be taken out ; boil it in a cloth to keep it white ; (it is well to soak the head for two or three hours previously to boiling ; it helps to improve the color;) wash, soak, and blanch the brains ; then boil them ; scald some sage, chop it fine, add pepper and salt and a little milk ; mix it with the brains ; the tongue, which should be soaked in salt and water for twenty-four hours, should be boiled, peeled, and served on a separate dish. The head should boil until tender, and if intended to be sent to ta- ble plainly, should be served as taken up, with melted butter and parsley ; if otherwise, when the head is boiled sufficiently tender, take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk of egg well beaten up ; powder with bread crumbs, and brown before the tire, in an oven. calves' ears. Scald the hair from the cars, and clean them thoroughly ; boil them until they are tender in veal gravy, and then blanch VEAL. 67 them in cold spring water. Serve them in chervil sauce, or in the gravy thickened and seasoned in which they were cooked. A sauce may be made of melted butter, with chervil mashed and put in, strained with the butter through a sieve, and white sauce added. White sauce is sometimes sent up alone with the ears ; in that case it should be flavored with mushroom powder. BOILED VEAL. Veal should be boiled in plenty of water ; if boiled in a cloth it will be whiter ; it should be boiled by the same rule as -other meats; that is, to be put in when the water is cold, and boiled gently till tender; serve with a sauce of drawn but- ter, parsley, or oyster sauce ; allow fifteen or twenty minutes to each pound of meat. They should be very clean ; boil them three hours, or until they are tender ; serve them with parsley and butter. -FRICASEED. Soak them three hours ; simmer them in equal proportions of milk and water, until they are sufficiently tender to remove the meat from the bones in good sized, pieces. Dip them in yolk of an egg, cover them with fine bread crumbs ; pepper and salt them ; fry a beautiful brown, and serve in white sauce. calf's heart. Stuffed and roasted precisely as beef heart. calf's kidney May be dressed as mutton or beef kidney, or mince it with some of the fat ; add cayenne, white pepper and salt; cover 68 PRACTICAL COOKER Y. it with bread crumbs and with yolk of egg • make it up into balls and fry in boiling fresh butter ; drain them upon a sieve, and serve them upon fried parsley. calf's liver. Lay the liver in vinegar for twelve hours, it will render it firm ; dip it in cold spring water and wipe it dry ; cut it in even slices; sprinkle sweet herbs, crumbled finely, over it; add pepper and salt, and dredge with flour ; fry in boiling lard or butter — the last is preferable ; remove the liver when fried a nice brown'; pour away a portion of the fat, and pour in a cup full of water with a lump of butter well rolled in flour, in which a spoon full of vinegar and cayenne or lemon juice has been stirred ; boil it up, keeping it stirred all the while, and serve the liver up in it ; thin slices of hot fried bacon should be sent to table with it. CHAPTER V. MUTTON. This is a delicate and a favorite meat ; it is susceptible of many modes of cooking, and should always be served very hot, and with very hot plates, except, of course, in cases where it may be sent to table as a cold dish. It is a meat which re- quires care in the cooking, which it will amply repay. The roasting parts are the better for hanging some time, especially the haunch or saddle ; but not for boiling, as the color is apt to be injured. The leg and the loin are the superior joints. Steaks are cut from the leg ; chops and cutlets from the shoul- der, breast, loin, and neck. The leg, loin, scrag, or breast, may be stewed. If the leg of mutton is roasted, serve with its own gravy, with a spoon full of currant jelly or red wine, made hot, in it. If boiled, serve drawn butter, parsley, or mock caper sauce, with tomatoes stewed, and plain boiled potatoes. HAUNCH OF MUTTON. The haunch should be hung as long as possible without be- ing tainted ; it should be washed with vinegar every day while hanging, and thoroughly dried after each washing ; if the weather be muggy, rubbing with sugar will prevent its turn- ing sour ; if warm weather, pepper and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off the flies. When ready for roasting, paper the fat ; commence roast- ing some distance from the fire ; baste with milk and water first, and then when the fat begins dripping, change the dish, 70 PRACTICAL COOKERY. and baste with its own dripping; half an hour previous to its being done, remove the paper from the fat ; place it closer to the fire; baste well, and serve with currant jell v. SADDLE OF MUTTON'. This joint, like the haunch, gains much of its flavor from han^ini- for some time ; the skin should be taken off, but skew- ered on again, until within rather more than a quarter of an hour of its being done ; then let it be taken off; dredge the saddle with flour; baste well. The kidneys maybe removed or remain, at pleasure ; but the fat which is found within the saddle should be removed previous to cooking. LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED. Like the haunch and saddle, it should be hung before cook- ing ; should be slowly roasted, and served with onion sauce or currant jelly. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON BOXED AND STUFFED. The principal skill required in accomplishing this dish is the boning ; this must be done with a very sharp knife ; com- mence on the under side of the joint, passing the knife under the skin until exactly over the bone; then cut down to it; pass the knife round close to the bone, right up to the socket ; then remove the large bone of the thickest end of the leg. see- ing the meat is clear of the bone; you may then draw out the remaining bones easily. Put in the orifice a highly seasoned forcemeat; fasten the knuckle end tightly over; replace the bone at the base of the joint, and sew it in. It must be well basted, and should be sent to table with a good gravy. SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Must be roasted, and sent to table with skin a nice brown ; it is served with onion sauce or currant jelly. This is the plain- est fashion ; and, for small families, the best. MUTTON. 71 ' LOIN OF MUTTON STEWED. Remove the skin ; bone it, and then roll it ; put it in a stew, pan, with a pint and a half of water, a piece of butter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two ; when it has stewed nearly four hours, strain the gravy ; add two spoons full of red wine ; serve very hot, with jelly sauce. BREAST OF MUTTON. May be stewed in gravy until tender ; bone it ; score it ; season well with cayenne, black pepper, and salt; boil it, and while cooking, skim the fat from the gravy in which it has been stewed ; slice a few gherkins, and add, with a dessertspoon full of mushroom ketchup ; boil it, and pour over the mutton when dished. ALAMODE MUTTON A LEG. First make a stuffing of bread and pork, chopped fine, sea- soned high with pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, and pounded cloves. After the meat is stuffed, place some skewers on the bottom of the pot ; lay the mutton on them, as they will keep it from burning. Put in two onions, two turnips, two carrots, sliced, and a little celery ; sprinkle a large quantity of salt on the whole, with a little powdered clove, a little mace, and a little pepper. Put enough water in the pot to cook it slowly four or five hours, without burning. When done, take out the meat, and put it in a covered dish by the fire. Skim off all the flit from the liquor. Then take a tumbler of port wine, thicken it with flour ; put it into the liquor with a little currant jelly. When it boils, it is ready to dish. Pour the gravy over the meat. MUTTON STEAKS. The steaks are cut from the thick or fillet end of a lesr of mutton, and dressed as rump steaks. 72 PRACTICAL COOKERY. MUTTON CHOPS BROILED. Cut from the best end of the loin ; trim them nicely, re- moving fat or skin, leaving only enough of the former to make them palatable ; let the fire be very clear before placing the chops on the gridiron ; turn them frequently, taking care that the fork is not put into the lean part of the chop ; season them with pepper and salt ; spread a little fresh butter over each chop, when nearly done, and send them to table upon very hot plates. MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. The fat in which the chops are to be fried should be boiling when the chops are put into it. They should be pared of fat, and well trimmed, before cooking ; they should be turned fre- quently, and when nicely browned, they will be done ; of course, if they are very thick, judgment must be exercised re- specting the length of time they will occupy in cooking. MUTTON CUTLETS. Loin chops make the best cutlets. Take off the vertebras or thickest end of each bone, and about an inch off the top of the bone; put the chops into a stewpan in which has been previ- ously melted a little butter, seasoned with salt ; stew for a short time, but not until they are brown, as that appearance is accomplished in another manner. Chop some parsley very fine ; add a little thyme ; mix it with sufficient yolk of egg to coat the chops, which will have been suffered to cool before this addition to them ; then powder them with bread crumbs, over which a pinch of cayenne pepper has been sprinkled ; broil them upon a gridiron, over a clear but not a brisk fire ; when they are brown, dish them ; lemon juice may be squeezed over them, or the dish in which they are served may be garnished with thin slices of lemon in halves and quarters. MUTTON. 73 FILLET OF MUTTON. Choose a very large leg ; cut from four to five inches in thickness, from the large end of tha leg ; take out the bone, and in its place put a highly savory force meat; flour, and roast it for two hours, and it will be done ; it may be sent to table with the same accompaniments as a fillet of veal, with melted butter poured over it, or a rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. HASH. Is made from former dressed mutton, leg or saddle, cut in nice thin shaped pieces, and put into some good brown sauce. HASHED MUTTON. Cut the cold mutton into slices, as uniform in size as possible ; flour them ; pepper and salt them ; put them into a stewpan, with some gravy made of an onion stewed with whole pepper and toasted bread, in a pint of water, to which a little walnut ketchup has been added — this gravy should be stewed two hours before using — do not let the hash boil ; when it is done, add a little thickening of butter, flour, and water, if required, and serve up with slices of toasted bread. MUTTON LIKE VENISON. A haunch or leg will be the most applicable. The joint should be hung as long as it can be with safety, and dressed exactly like a haunch of venison, and served with the same sauces ; but to make the taste more perfectly resemble that of venison, it should, after having been hung to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a pan with vinegar and water ; two parts of the former to one of the latter, not enough to cover it ; put in a fagot of herbs, a clove of garlic, a spoon full of whole pepper, and a couple of onions, cut in slices ; let it soak three days ; dry it well ; hang it for a day, and roast as venison. D 74 PRACTICAL COOKERY. It may ajso be put into a stewpan, with half a pint of gravy, and simmer four hours ; serve with venison sauce. MUTTON HAMS. These are cut, corned, smoked, and eaten, the same as smoked beef or venison hams. TO DRESS MUTTON HAMS. Soak the ham for five or six hours in cold spring water, un- less it has only recently been cured, then one hour will suffice ; put it into cold water ; boil gently ; it will be done in two hours and a half. It is eaten cold. MUTTON KIDNEYS BROILED. Skin and split without parting asunder; skewer them through the outer edge, and keep them flat ; lay the open sides first to the fire, which should be clear and brisk ; in four minutes turn them ; sprinkle with salt and cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes afterward, take them from the fire ; put a piece of butter inside them ; squeeze some lemon juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. SHEEP'S TONGUE STEWED. Put them into cold water, and let them boil ; when they are sufficiently tender to remove the skin easily, take them out ; split them, and lay them in a stewpan, with enough good gravy to cover them. Chop parsley, and mushroom, with a little onion, finely ; work a lump of butter with it ; add pepper and salt to flavor ; stew them in the gravy until the tongues are tender ; lay them in a dish ; strain the gravy, and pour it hot over the tongues ; serve. IRISH STEW. Take two or three pounds of neck of mutton ; cut it into chops; pare three pounds of potatoes; cut them into thick MUTTON. 75 slices ; put them into a stewpan, with a quart of water, two or three carrots ; turnips or onions may be added ; the last are seldom omitted ; salt and pepper the mutton when added to the gravy ; let it boil or simmer gently for two hours, and serve very hot ; its excellence much depends on the last in- structions being fulfilled. CHAPTER VI L A M B . Lamb is usually sold by the butcher in quarters. The fore- quarter includes the shoulder, neck and breast ; the hind-quar ter, the leg and loin. Lamb may be roasted, stewed, hashed, fried, boiled, or be made into pie. Lamb may be baked in a hot oven nearly to equal a roast. FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB, ROASTED. This is the favorite, and, indeed, the best joint. Do not put it too near the fire, at first ; when it gets heated, baste it well ; the fire should be quick, clear, but not fierce ; the usual weight of a fore-quarter is between nine and eleven pounds ; it will take two hours ; when it is done, separate the shoulder from the ribs ; but before it is quite taken off, lay under a large lump of butter ; squeeze a lemon, and season with pepper and salt ; let it remain long enough to quite melt the butter ; then remove the shoulder, and lay it on another dish. TO ROAST A LEG OF LAMB. The rules laid down for roasting mutton must be scrupu- lously observed with respect to lamb ; let it roast gradually, and commence a distance from the fire ; a leg of five pounds will take an hour and a quarter ; one of six pounds, will take an hour and a half. LAMB. 77 TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB. Put it in sufficient clear, cold, soft water, to cover it ; let it remain half an hour ; half a hand full of salt may be thrown in ; put it into a thin white cloth, which has been floured, and boil it in enough water to cover it ; a good sized bundle of sweet herbs may be thrown into the saucepan ; if six pounds, it will be done in an hour and a half; serve with spinach or French beans ; if sent to table cold, lay handsome sprigs of parsley about it tastefully ; it may, while hot, be garnished with parsley, with thin slices of lemon, laid round the dish. STEWED LOIN OF LAMB. The Join may be stewed whole or in steaks ; in the former, the flap being secured by a skewer, is put into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, and covered down close ; let it simmer one hour ; then turn it ; let it simmer again for an hour and a quarter, and then have ready some rich brown gravy, hot ; lift out the meat ; pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with mint sauce, a lettuce, a few radishes, and spring onions. TO STEW A BREAST OF LAMB. Cut it into pieces ; pepper and salt well ; stew in sufficient gravy to cover the meat until tender ; then thicken the sauce ; pour in a glass of sherry ; serve on a dish of stewed mush- rooms. LAMB STEWED WITH PEAS. Cut the scrag or breast of lamb in pieces, and put it in a stewpan, with water enough to cover it. Cover the stewpan close, and let it simmer or stew for fifteen or twenty minutes ; take off the scum ; then add a tablespoon full of salt, and a quart of shelled peas ; cover the stewpan, and let them stew for half an hour ; work a small tablespoon full of w r heat flour with a quarter of a pound of butter, and stir it into the stew ; add a 78 PRACTICAL COOKERY. small teaspoon full of pepper ; let it simmer together for ten minutes. Serve with new potatoes, boiled. A blade of mace may be added, if liked. SWEETBREADS FRICASEED BROWN. Cut them in small pieces; flour, and fry them. When a good brown, pour over them a pint of good beef gravy, highly seasoned ; stew gently, until the sweetbreads are tender ; add a little flour and butter, to thicken ; add mushroom ketchup, to flavor ; mushrooms may be substituted, or all may be cooked with the sweetbreads. LAMB CHOPS. Lamb chops and cutlets are cooked in the same manner a.i mutton chops and cutlets, but require more care in the cook- ing ; they are sent to table with various garnishes, and ar- ranged in many forms ; the most simple manner is to garnish with crisped parsley. CHAPTER VII. PORK. Pork is like veal — indigestible, at least chemists consider it so though some medical men have asserted to the contrary; it should at least be thoroughly cooked, to place, if possible, its digestibility beyond a doubt. In roasting, or in boiling, ample time should be allowed for the joint. Pork is always salted for boiling, and is much liked in this form. When sent to table, apple sauce should in every case accompany it. Pork is in season from October to April. Be sure that it is not measly, before using it. Great attention also should be given to it when it is in pickle, for if any part of it be long ex- posed to the air, without being turned into, or well and fre- quently basted with the brine, it will often become tainted du- ring the process of curing it. Serve with roast pig or pork, mashed potatoes, boiled onions, turnips mashed, pickled beets, mangoes or cucumbers, or dressed celery and cranberry sauce, stewed apples, or currant jelly. . ROAST PIG SERVED WHOLE^ When well dressed and washed, prepare a stuffing of chop- ped bread seasoned well with pepper, salt, sage and butter, soaked enough to make it soft. Fill the body and sew it up with strong thread. Flour it well all over, and when the oven is well heated through, put it on dripping pans, that will catch all the gravy. Let it stand in two or three hours, according to the size of the pig. Let it be well crisped and, of course, hand- somely brown. When you take it from the oven, mash two spoons full of flour, with butter enough to mix well, and dip on 80 PKACTICAL COOKERY. the dripping a little at a time at first, until melted, then ponr it on, stirring it until thickened, season it with salt, and add to it the brains bruised fine, and then send it to the table. The head must be cut off anjd laid upon the platter. ROAST PIG. Soak in milk some light bread, boil some sage and onions in plenty of water, strain it off and chop it all very fine, press the milk from the bread, and then mix the sage and onion with pepper and salt ; in the bread put the yolk of an egg to bind it a little, put this in the inside of the pig, rub the pig over with milk and butter, paper it, roast it a beautiful brown, cut off the head before it is drawn from the spit, and likewise cut it down the back and then you -will not break the skin ; take out the spit, cut off the ears from the head, and crack the bone and take out the brains, put them m a stewpan with all the inside stuffing and a little brown sauce ; dish the pig, the backs out- side, and put the sauce in the middle, and some in a boat, the ears at each end. A LEG OF PORK ROASTED. The pork should be young and dairy-fed ; score the skin with a sharp penknife ; a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed over the skin to make it brown and crisp without blistering. Chop some sage, that has been scalded, very fine, add to it an onion parboiled, mix br^ad crumbs and a small portion of apple chopped very line, mix [ill together, season with pepper and salt, make an incision, separating the skin from the fat in the under and fillet end of the leg, and place the stuffing there ; the time of roasting will depend upon the size of the leg ; serve up with apple sauce. LOIN OF POKK Should, like the leg, be scored beibre roasting, and well jointed to make the chops separate easily, and then roast a- a PORK. 81 loin of mutton ; or it may be put into enough water to cover it, simmer until it is nearly done, then take it out, take the skin off, coat it well with yolk of egg and bread crumbs ; roast for about a quarter of an hour, until it is thoroughly done. A FILLET OF PORK TO RESEMBLE "VEAL. The fillet should be cut from the leg of a very large pig ; re- move the bone and fill the orifice with veal stuffing, roast it until it is more than half done, then take some thin broth and put it in the stewpan; put in the pork, stew until it is thoroughly done, then thicken the gravy and send it to table with force meat balls and lemon cut in slices. GRISKIN OF PORK. Put it into a saucepan with enough water to cover it ; when it has boiled take it up, butter, and flour it, and put it before the fire to brown ; ten minutes will suffice. SPARE RIB OF PORK ROAST. You must joint this down the middle, and sprinkle it with a little fine sage and salt ; baste and flour it well ; apple sauce in a boat. CHINE OF PORK. This joint is usually sent to table with turkey, it should be salted for about sixty or seventy hours previous to cooking, and then be roasted ; a chine boiled is as often sent to table as roasted, but the latter is usually preferred. POKK STEAK. This should be broiled the same as beef, except it requires to be done slower and much longer. If there is too much fire, it will blaze. Cut in around the bone that there shall be nothing that has a raw appearance. Season with butter, salt and pep- D* 6 82 PRACTICAL COOKERY. per. They may be cooked in cutlets like veal, with a little powdered sage and hard crumbs, or flour, fried in butter. PORK CUTLETS. Cut them from a small, delicate loin of pork, bone, and trim them neatly, fry them a light brown, put into a small stew- pan a little vinegar, and onion chopped very fine, two table- spoons full of tomato sauce, and sufficient brown gravy to make it tasty ; stew the cutlets in the sauce five minutes, and send them to table dished handsomely ; if the cutlets are broiled they may be dipped in yolk of egg and bread crumbs, and broiled over a clear fire, and served with tomato sauce. PORK SAUSAGES FINE. Have two-thirds lean and one-third fat pork ; chop very fine. Season with nine teaspoons full of pepper, nine of salt, three of powdered sage, to every pound of meat. Warm the meal, that you can mix it well with your hands; do up a part in small patties, with a little flour mixed with them, and the rest pack in jars. When used, do it up in small cakes and flour on the outside, and fry in butter or alone. They should not be covered, or they will fall to pieces. A little cinnamon to a part of them will be a pleasant addition. They should be kept where it is cool but not damp. They are very nice for breakfast. SIMPLE SAUSAGES. Take three pounds of fresh pork, fat and lean together, with- out skin, or gristle, chop it fine as possible, season it with a tea- spoon full of black and cayenne pepper mixed, three of salt, three or four spoons full of sage ; mix it well together ; have the skins very nicely cleaned, and fill them, or lay the meat down in a pot. Beef makes very good sausages. PORK. 83 PORK SAUSAGES ENGLISH. Take of the fat of pork one pound, that of the loin of a large richly fecfpig, or the inward fit of a small one. Chop it finely with half a pound of lean pork ; add to it four or five sage leaves finely chopped, some lemon thyme in a small quantity, and three dessertspoons full of crumb of bread powdered ; be careful not to put too much of the latter, as it tends to turn the sausages sour if kept. Amalgamate these ingredients well, dust on grated nutmeg, mace, and cloves in powder, and finish with black pepper and salt, being sure to season well ; the meat may then be put into the skins, or may be put in jars covered down from the air, to be used for rolls or stuffing, or any re- quired purpose. All skin must be pared from the fat before chopping, and every sinew removed from the lean pork, as well as any bone, or anything which may impair the taste when eaten. SOUSE. Boil it until it is tender and will slip off the bone. If de- signed to pickle and keep on hand, throw it into cold water and take out the bones ; then pack it into a jar and boil with the jelly liquor an equal quantity of vinegar, salt enough to sea- son ; cloves, cinnamon, pepper enough to make it pleasant, and pour it on the souse scalding hot, and when wanted for use, warm it in the liquor, or make a batter and dip each piece in, and fry in hot butter. r This way is usually preferred, and is as nice as tripe. pig's head baked. Let it be divided and thoroughly cleaned ; take out the brains, trim the snout and ears, bake it an hour and a half, wash the brains thoroughly, blanch them, beat them up with an egg, pepper and salt, and some finely chopped or pounded 84 PRACTICAL COOKERY. sage, and a small piece of butter, fry them or brown them be- fore the fire ; serve with the head. pigs' feet stewed. Clean, split, and boil tender, put them into a stewpan with enough gravy to cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, and salt ; stew forty minutes ; strain off the gravy, thicken with flour and butter, add two spoons full of vinegar or one dessertspoon full of lemon pickle ; serve it up with the feet BAM RASHERS, OR SLICES May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May be served with spinach and poached eggs, boiled green peas. Stewed with green peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four pieces, each piece rolled and fastened with a skewer, roasted, and served with peas. They should in all cases be cut an even thickness, and cooked without injuring the color. Bacon may be dressed in the same variety. BOILED HAM. Hams, if very dirty, should be soaked about twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean cloth, and laid upon stone flags for two days, the cloth being kept moistened with clean soft water; this will render it tender when cooked ; let it be thoroughly scraped and cleaned, and placed in the copper, which in small families will be found the most convenient mode of cooking it ; they should be put in sufficient water to cover them, which water, when the ham is cooked, will be found of the greatest service in making stock for soups ; the time it will require to boil will depend upon the weight of the ham — a small one three hours and a half, which may progress according to the weight to six hours; when it is done remove the skin, if possible, without break- ing it — it prevents the ham when cold becoming dry ; spread ,v 'i' the ham bread raspings. PORK. 85 TO BAKE A HAM. Put the ham in soak previous to dressing it ; if an old one, two hours will be required, but if not very old, an hour will suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it with a paste about an inch in thickness. The edges being first moistened must be drawn together, and made to adhere, or the gravy will escape. Bake it in a regular, well-heated oven ; it will take from three to six hours, according to its weight ; when done remove the paste, and then the skin. This must be done while the ham is hot. If well baked and not too salt, it will prove of finer flavor than if boiled. HAM AND EGGS FRIED. The slices of ham should first be boiled a trifle. Put a bit of lard in the fryingpan. After the slices have been dipped in wheat flour or rolled crackers, place them in the hot fat. Sprinkle pepper. When both sides are finely browned, dish it, with sufficient gravy. Put a bit of lard into the pan. When hot, slip the eggs into the fat, avoiding to break the yolk. Cook slowly, and separate each egg with a knife. When done, place them in a chain around the meat. Spinach boiled and pressed free from water and chopped small, may be put on the center of a steak dish, lay the fried ham on it, pour the gravy over, place the fried eggs around it. Vinegar may be eaten with the spinach. TO TRY OUT LARD. Take the leaf fat from the inside of a bacon hog, cut it small, and put it in an iron kettle, which must be perfectly free from any musty taste ; set it over a steady, moderate fire, until no- thing but scraps remain of the meat ; the heat must be kept up, but gentle, that it may not burn the lard ; spread a coarse cloth in a wire sieve, and strain the liquid into tin basins, which 8G PRACTICAL COOKEKr. will hold two or three quarts ; squeeze out all the fat from the scraps. When the lard in the pans is cold, press a piece of new muslin close upon it, trim it off at the edge of the pan, and keep it in a cold place. Or it may be kept in wooden kegs with close covers. Lard made with one-third as much beef suet as fat, is sup- posed, by many persons, to keep better; it is better, made in this way, for cooking. TO MELT LARD. Take the inner fat of a newly killed pig and strip off the skin completely and carefully, slice it and put it into a jar, and set the jar in a pan of boiling water ; let it melt, and when per- fectly fluid pour it into dry, clean jars, and cover them closely ; it maybe kept some time in a dry place, and when used may be mixed with butter for pastry, for frying fish, and many other purposes in cooking. HEAD CHEESE. Thoroughly clean the hog's head, split it in two, take out the eyes and brains, cut off the nose and cars, and pour scalding water over the latter and the head, and scrape them clean. Then rinse all in cold water, and put it into water to cover it ; let it boil gently, taking off the scum as it rises ; when boiled so that the bones leave the meal readily, take it from the wa- ter into a large wooden bowl or tray ; take from it every par- ticle of bone ; chop the meat small and season to taste with silt and pepper, and if liked, a little chopped sage or thyme ; spread a cloth in a cullender or sieve ; set it in a deep dish, and put the meat in, then fold the cloth closely over it, lay a plate on, which may press equally the whole surface. Let the weight be more or less heavy, according as you may PORK. 87 wish the cheese to be fat or lean ; a heavy weight by pres- sing out the fat, will of course leave the cheese lean. When cold, scrape off whatever fat may be found on the outside of the cloth, and keep the cheese in the cloth in a cool place, to be eaten sliced thin, with or without mus- tard and vinegar, or catsup. u. N - CHAPTER VIII. FOUL T R Y . Always have good and fat poultry where possible ; in the country you may command it. The best sort for the table is the Dorking breed ; they are five toed, have white legs, and feathers of a grayish white color. About three weeks before you want to use them, six or twelve fowls, according to your consumption, should be put into the coop, and as you kill one or more, replace them, to keep up the stock ; for the first week feed them alter- nate days with boiled rice and soaked bread and milk ; the remainder of the time mix barley meal with the skimmings of your stockpot and a spoon full of moist sugar; the win- dows of your poultry house must be darkened. POULTRY. 89 Fowls should be carefully drawn, so that the gall blad- der is uninjured, and should only be dene through the vent. Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A capon will take five- and-thirty minutes, smaller fowls a less time in proportion. A turkey of fourteen pounds will take two hours ; the time will increase or decrease with the weight. The same rule applies to geese; a large one will take an hour and a half, chickens take half an hour, pigeons ten minutes less. It must be understood that the adherence to the time will depend on the state of the fire. In choosing poultry, the best way to determine whether it is young, is to try the skin under the leg or wing ; if it is easily broken, it is young ; or, turn the wing backwards ; if the joint yields readily it is tender ; a fat fowl is best for any purpose. ROAST TURKEY. Remove the vent with the knife ; cut a slit from the end of the breast bone, to take out the entrails, taking care not to break the gall on the liver, or it must be thrown away. Take off the feet, and bruise the bone close to the foot, and draw out the string from the leg ; cut a slit in the back of the neck ; pass your finger around in front, and draw out the crop ; cut the neck short, leaving skin enough to fasten over against the back ; wash the inside with cold water ; wipe it dry ; mix a tablespoon full of salt with a teaspoon full of pepper ; rub the inside well with this, and also the place of the crop. Prepare the stuffing with bread, salt, pepper, butter, cinna- mon, or nutmeg, or a little lemon peel, or parsley and thyme; chop, and mix all well together, with one or two eggs, beaten well. With this dressing stuff the body and the breast, and sew them with a strong thread. Also fill the crop ; then draw the skin of the neck over the back, and fasten it with a skewer ; turn the legs close to the body, and run skewers through each 90 PRACTICAL COOKER Y. hip joint, and tie the ends of the legs together. Roast the tur- key to a fine brown ; baste it frequently with the liquor in the pan. It will be done in one hour and a half; or, if old and very large, two hours or more. Make a gravy of drawn but- ter and the dripping. Another sauce is made of half a pint of oysters, boiled in a pan, thickened with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Only let it boil once. Serve this by itself, in con- nection with other gravy, for every person does not like oyster sauce. Take up the roast ; draw the skewers out, and take out the threads ; lay it on a dish, on its back, and serve with mashed potatoes, turnips mashed, dressed celery, pickles, and stewed apples ; cold boiled ham or tongue, for a large dinner. Mince pies, for Christmas ; pumpkin and apple pies for Thanksgiving. BOILED TURKEY. The turkey should be prepared as for roasting, with the wings twisted over against the back. Stuff the turkey as fol- lows : Pour boiling water or milk on wheat bread or mashed potatoes ; season high w r ith pepper and salt, and, if liked, a tea- spoon full of fine sage or thyme, or a bunch of finely chopped parsley ; fill the crop, and turn the skin of the neck over against the back, and fasten it with a small skewer. Dredge flour over the outside ; tie it in a cloth, and put it in a pot of hot (not boiling) water ; cover the pot, and let it boil gently about fifteen minutes to the pound ; take off the scum ; serve with drawn butter, celery, or parsley sauce. Mashed potatoes, turnips or squash, celery, pickles, and stewed apples, or cranberry jam, and cold ham or tongue, are served with bailed turke Oyster stuffing is made as above directed, adding a pint of fine oysters to it. S^rve with oyster sauce, poured over, or in a tureen. POULTRY. 91 ROAST AND BAKED GOOSE. Prepare the goose for roasting the same as turkey. Cut wheat bread in slices ; pour hot water over ; then add a tea- spoon full of salt, and the same of ground pepper, and a quarter of a pound of sweet butter, with a tablespoon full of finely pow- dered sage or thyme, if liked. Fill the body ; then sew up the slit ; tie the ends of the legs together, or cut a place and put them in the body ; pass a skewer through the hips ; put the heart and liver between the wings and the body, and fasten close to it, with a skewer; split it; put a pint of water in the pan, with a teaspoon full of salt, to baste with ; roast by a bright, steady, and clear fire, and baste freely, and turn it, after it has begun to roast. When nearly done, add a quarter of a pound of butter to the pan, and baste with it ; dredge a little flour over it ; turn it, that every part may be well done ; allow fifteen minutes for each pound of meat. If the gravy is very flit, take some of it off; put the pan over the fire ; let it become hot ; then stir into it a thin batter, made of a teaspoon full of wheat flour and cold water ; stir it until it is brown and smooth ; when done, pour the gravy through a gravy strainer, into a tureen. A goose may be equally well dressed, in a hot oven or stove, with the same preparation. It should be placed upon its back, in the pan, upon a trivet of muffin rings, with water in the pan, and bits of butter over the body. Baste it freely till done. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes, mashed yellow turnips, or winter squash, apples stewed without sugar, or cranberry jam, boiled onions, pickles, and dressed celery. Dessert. Apple, pumpkin, custard, or mince pies. A young goose may be cut up and made into a pot or other pie. 92 PRACTICAL COOKERY. TO ROAST DUCKS. Ducks should be well plucked, without tearing the skin, all the plugs being removed. Some cooks go so far as to skin the duck, holding it a minute by the feet in scalding water, that the skin may peel easier; clean the insides thoroughly with a little warm water, and stuff them with the same stuffing as for goose, using, perhaps, a little more bread, for the sake of mildness ; roast them before a brisk fire, but not too close ; baste very frequently ; they will take from half an hour to an hour ; much depends on the age and size ; when the breast plumps they will be just done ; serve them with a rich brown gravy. TO BOIL DUCKS. Clean and pluck them; let the skin be preserved from rents, while plucking ; salt them for about thirty hours, previous to cooking ; flour a clean white cloth, and boil them in it ; a mod- erate sized duck will take about an hour's boiling ; make a rich onion sauce with milk, and send it to table with the duck. When the duck is boiled fresh, it may be stuffed as for roasting, and served with the same description of gravy. STEWED DUCK. The ducks should be cut into joints, and laid in a stewpan, with a pint of good gravy ; let it come to a boil, and, as the scum rises, remove it ; season with salt and cayenne ; let them stew gently three-quarters of an hour; mix smoothly two tea- spoons full of fine ground rice, with a glass of port ; stir it into the gravy ; let it have seven or eight minutes to amalgamate with the gravy ; dish, and send to table very hot. CANVASS BACK DUCKS. Canvass back ducks are served in the same manner as wild ducks, without the onion in the basting ; as there is no disa- greeable taste to destroy, that is not necessary. POULTRY. 93 Canvass back ducks may be served the same as goose or tame duck. Roast them according to their size. BOILED FOWL. Truss the fowl, and stuff it, seasoning to suit the taste. A half pint of oysters may be added to the stuffing. Dredge well with wheat flour ; then put it into a pot of hot water ; cover it close, and let it boil gently, according to its weight and age; an old fowl may boil twice as long as a young one ; allow fifteen minutes to the pound for a full grown fowl ; take off the scum as it rises. Serve with plain boiled or mashed potatoes, and drawn butter, parsley, or oyster sauce. Pickles and dressed celery are served with boiled fowls; also mashed turnips, boiled asparagus, and cauliflower. Boiled ham or tongue, or corned beef, is generally served with boiled fowls. ROAST FOWL. Clean the fowl thoroughly ; roast it twenty minutes, unless a very fine one, and then it will take three-quarters of an hour; dredge with a little flour, and baste well ; serve with bread sauce, or parsley and butter ; egg sauce is sometimes sent to table with it. If a small lump of salt butter, well covered with black pepper, is placed within "the fowl previous to roasting, it will be found to improve it, by removing the dryness which is met with in the back or side bones, or it may be stuffed. Mashed potatoes, tomatoes stewed, mashed turnips, (ruta- baga or yellow are best,) dressed celery, or lettuce, pickles, and mangoes, are served with roast fowls. Also currant jelly, stewed apples, or cranberry jam. A fowl may be roasted in a hot stove oven, so as to be nearly as fine as before the fire ; baste freely and often, and finish as di- rected for roasting. 94 PRACTICAL COOKERY. TO FRICASEE A FOWL. Cut it in pieces, jointing it well, and boil it tender, with a slice or two of pork, cut fine. When nearly done, add half a teaspoon full of pepper and salt, to season it. When tendei, turn off the water, and add half a pound of butter, or nearly that, and let it fry a while. Then take out the chicken, and stir in two or three spoons full of flour, previously dissolved in cold water, and add the water from the chicken. Let it boil, and pour it upon the chicken on the platter. This makes a superior dish, and needs no vegetables but mashed potatoes. FOWL BROILED. Separate the back of the fowl, and lay the two sides open ; skewer the wings as for roasting ; season well with pepper and salt, and broil ; send to table with the inside of the fowl to the surface of the dish ; serve mushroom sauce ; it is an admira- ble breakfast dish when a journey is to be performed. TO GRILL COLD FOWLS. Trim the joints that remain, and having dipped them in clar- ified butter, spread over them a coating of finely powdered bread crumbs, mixed with very finely ground nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt in small quantities ; lay them upon a clean gridiron over a clear fire ; broil gently. CHICKEN FOT PIE. Boil the chickens tender, or nearly so ; having them cut in pieces. Make a rich crust, adding a little saleratus, and an egg or two to make it light and puff. Lay it around the sides of the pan, and then lay in the chickens; between each layer sprinkle in Sour, pepper, salt and butter, with a thin slice of paste here and there. Then add the water in which they were POULTRY. 95 boiled, and cover them. They should be baked an hour or an hour and a half, according to the size of the pie. CHICKENS PULLED. Remove the skin carefully from a cold chicken, then pull the flesh from the bones, preserving it as whole as you can. Flour them well ; fry them a nice brown in fresh butter ; draw them, and stew in a good gravy well seasoned ; thicken a short time before serving with flour and butter, and add the juice of half a lemon. CHICKEN AND TURKEY PATTIES. Mince some cold chicken or turkey ; put to it some of the gravy, or if you have none, line your pie dish with a paste ; put in your minced meat ; work some butter and flour to- gether, and lay bits all over the meat ; then nearly fill the dish with water ; season with pepper and salt, and if liked, a little ground mace ; cover with a nice paste, and cook until the crust is done. CHICKEN SALAD. Take two large cold fowls, either boiled or roasted ; cut the meat from the bones, in pieces not exceeding an inch in size. Cut the white part of two large heads or four small ones of fine celery into pieces not more than an inch long ; mix the chicken and celery well together ; cover them and set them away. With a knife mash the yolks of nine hard boiled eggs ; add a gill of dry mustard, and mix them well together, with just sufficient water to make a smooth paste. Much depends on the thoroughness of this mixing ; and great care must be taken not to add too much water. Place the mixture in a good sized, shallow dish ; add a tea- spoon full of cayenne pepper and one of salt, and pour in a 00 PRACTICAL COOKERY. pint of sweet oil, a little at a time, mixing it thoroughly in with a wooden fork. If the oil is added in too large quantities, it will not mix so readily, and it will be more difficult to make the dressing smooth. When the mixture is perfectly smooth, add a gill of vin- egar in the same way as the oil, stirring it in with the fork. When the dressing is thoroughly mixed, and smooth, and even, cover it, and set it away in a cool place. Ten minutes before the salad is to be eaten, take a head of lettuce, break off the leaves from the stalk ; add them to the chicken and celery ; see that the dressing has kept thoroughly mixed, and then pour it over the whole, mixing them well together with a wooden fork and spoon. CHAPTER IX. Q A M E , ETC. VENISON THE HAUNCH. " The observed of all observers," when venison Epicureans sit at table ; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked, and served hot, which must prove delicious to the palate. It should always hang a considerable length of time ; the deli- cacy of its flavor is obtained by hanging, only ; if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any respect a haunch of mutton. The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed in warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth ; if it has hung very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to remove the skin and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper, well greased with fresh butter ; during E 7 98 PRACTICAL COOKERY. the time it is at the fire, do not be afraid of basting it too much ; it will require all the cook is likely to give it ; if it be a buck haunch, and large, it will take nearly four hours within five or ten minutes ; if comparatively small, three hours and a half •will suffice ; if a doe haunch, three hours and a quarter will be enough. Remove the paper when it is done enough, dredge quickly with flour to produce a froth. Dish it, and serve ; let there be nothing with it in the dish; but the gravy should be sent to table in its proper dish, accompanied by currant jelly. The haunch is not unfrequently roasted in a paste, which in its turn is enclosed in paper, removed when the joint is nearly cooked. The above is the simplest, and not the least palatable mode of sending it to table. VENISON STEAKS. Cut them moderately thick, and place on a gridiron over a slow fire. , When done on both sides, remove them to the plate, and on both sides of each sprinkle salt, pepper, powdered cloves, butter, and currant jelly, and pile them as compactly as possible. This keeps them warm, and furnishes a rich gravy. TO HASH VENISON. Carve your venison into slices; let them be thin, and put them in a stewpan with two small glasses of port wine ; add a spoon full of browning, one of ketchup, and an onion stuck with cloves ; let it boil, then put in your venison ; make it thoroughly hot through. Lay slices of toast, in various shapes, in a soup dish ; pour the hash upon it, and serve with currant J ell y- A SHOULDER OF VENISON STEWED. If you should have a very lean shoulder, stew it in prefer- ence to roasting ; bone it, cover it with slices of mutton fat, which sometimes are first steeped in port to give a richer Ma- GAME, ETC. 99 vor ; roll it up, and bind it tightly. Lay it in a stewpan with a quantity of beef gravy, and the bones you have taken from the venison ; add two glasses of port, a dessertspoon full of whole pepper, and the same quantity of allspice. Cover down closely, and simmer until the venison is tender ; take it out and remove the fat ; thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and strain it over the meat. NECK AND SHOULDER OF VENISON. These joints, or as together they may be termed the haunch joint, may be dressed exactly like the haunch, covered with a thin paste, and greased paper over that ; it will take two hours and a half, or if very large, three hours ; it should be served up with venison sauce. PHEASANTS. Pheasants are rarely stuffed ; it is more customary to send them to table accompanied by force meat in the dish ; in many cases with the simple gravy only ; the real Epicurean in game prefers the flavor of the bird uncontaminated by any accesso- ries, save those which just assist to remove the dryness com- mon to most game. Pheasants are sometimes larded ; but as the flavor is entirely disguised by the taste of the bacon, in- corporated with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is done more for appearance than palate, we would not advise it. In dressing the pheasant, it should be drawn and cleaned as other game, and trussed ; should be roasted before a clear, not a fierce fire, and will take forty minutes ; it must not be done too much, but must not, on any account, be sent to table underdone. PARTRIDGES Are cooked as pheasants ; they should not be stuffed ; grate bread crumbs into a shallow dish j place them before the fire 100 PRACTICAL COOKERY. to brown, shaking them occasionally, and send them to table with the birds. PARTRIDGE BROILED. Let the partridge hang until longer would make it offensive ; split it, and take a soft, clean cloth and remove all the moisture inside and out ; lay it upon a gridiron over a very clear fire ; spread a little salt and cayenne over it. When it is done, which will be in twenty minutes, rub a little butter over it, and send it to table with mushroom sauce. HARES. A hare is nothing if not well hung and well cooked ; a hare must be hung very long indeed, to be hung too long. It is better for not being paunched for a few days, unless the weather is warm and muggy; in no case is it advisable to paunch it when first killed. Keep the inside wiped dry, and well pep- pered. If the hare is very old, soak it a couple of hours in water and vinegar ; then wash it in clean, lukewarm water, to take away the acid flavor which might be communicated by the vinegar; put in the belly plenty of stuffing, well seasoned ; bans the hare some distance from the fire; it should be roasted gradually, because, being of a very dry and hard nature, it re- quires being thoroughly done, and yet not dried up. It should be sent to table with a good gravy in the dish, or melted butter ; in both cases gravy should accompany it when served, and also currant jelly. The stuffing is composed of the liver, scalded and minced ; sweet herbs, parsley, bread crumbs, and suet, seasoned to tho taste. RABBITS You will roast the same as hares, and, if required to be stuffed, melted butter, chopped parsley, and the liver chopped, pepper and salt. GAME, ETC. 101 BOILED RABBITS. A rabbit should boil only twenty minutes, and boil slowly ; if larger than common, an extra ten minutes may be allowed. It should be sent to table smothered in onion sauce ; the water should be kept free from scum. It is trussed for boiling dif- ferently from what it is for roasting. PIGEONS ROASTED. Veal stuffing for pigeons; it improves the flavor; they must be fresh and well cleaned ; butter and parsley may be served with them ; but parsley alone as a stuffing, though frequently used, is by no means so palatable as the veal stuffing, or one made with veal, the fat of bacon, and the crumb of bread soaked in milk, and well seasoned. Currant jelly, or apples stewed without sugar, dressed cel- ery, or any other salad, and mashed turnips or squash, may be served with roast birds. ROASTED PIGEONS. Let your pigeons be picked clean and washed ; then stuff the whole inside of the pigeon with fine veal stuffing, if pre- ferred ; if not, merely a few bread crumbs and parsley, pep- per and salt. PIGEONS BROILED. Split the backs ; season them highly ; lay them over a clear, brisk fire; serve with mushroom sauce. PIGEONS STEWED. After they are well dressed, put a slice of salt pork and a little ball of stuffing into the body of each. Flour the pigeons well, and lay them close in the bottom of the pot. Just cover them with water, and throw in a piece of butter ; let them stew an hour and a quarter if young — if old, longer. This is 102 PRACTICAL COOKERY. preferred to roasting, or any other way they can be prepared. They may be cooked in the same way without stuffing. ROAST WOODCOCK, SNIPE, ETC. Dress them well. Put a bit of butter, pepper and salt, mixed, into the body, or fill with mashed potatoes, seasoned with a bit of butter, pepper, and salt, and moistened with milk; cut off the pinions at the first joint; fasten the legs close to the ribs, and turn the head backward, sticking the bill between the leg and the body ; rub over with pepper and salt, and hang on bird spits, and set them before a hot fire ; baste with a cup of wa- ter and butter ; dredge flour or rolled cracker over, and baste continually for the last five minutes; lay slices of toast under to catch the dripping, and serve under the birds. SMALL BIRDS BROILED. After being dressed, split them down the back ; spread them flat, and broil them very gently over a bright fire of coals ; butter them ; salt and pepper, and serve quickly. CUTLETS OF FOWL AND GAME. The cutlets are, of course, larger from fowls, &c, than chick- ens, but they may be prepared in the same manner. The cut- lets are usually taken from the thighs, the wings boned, and from the fleshiest part of the body. The French serve them with slices of bread fried a light brown, and place each cutlet upon a slice, pouring into the dish, but not over the cutlets, a rich, brown gravy. u.\ CHAPTER X. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. OBSERVATIONS ON CLEANING AND DRESSING FISH. Before dressing fish of any kind great care should be taken that it is well washed and cleansed, but be cautious not to wash it too much, as the flavor is much diminished by too much wa- ter. When boiling fish, put a little salt into the water to give the fish firmness. Be careful to let fish be well done, but not to let it break. When very fresh, cod and whiting are very much improved by keeping a day, and rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. Fresh water fish often have a muddy smell and taste, which is easily got rid of by soaking it. 'Af- ter it has been thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and water, if the fish is not too large, scald it in the same, then dry and dress it. 104 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Put the fish in cold water, and let it boil very gently, or the outside will break before the inside is warm. Put all crimped fish into boiling water, and when it boils up, some cold water should be put into it to check it and keep it simmering. All fish should be taken out of the water the instant it is done, or it will be- come woolly. To ascertain when it is done, the fish plate may be drawn up, and, if done, the meat will leave the bone. To keep it hot, and to prevent it losing its color, the fish plate should be placed across the fish kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or done with egg and bread crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish on which the fish is to be served should be placed a damask napkin, folded, and upon this put the fish, with the roe and liver ; then garnish the dish with horseradish, parsely and lemon. To broil or fry fi?h nicely, after it is well washed it should be put in a cloth, and when dry, wetted with egg and bread crumbs. Then have your pan with plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put your fish into it, and let it fry rather quickly, till it is of a nice brown and appears done. If it is done before being nicely browned, it should be taken from the pan, placed on a sieve before the fire to drain and brown. Should you Try your fish in oil, it obtains a much finer color than when done in dripping or lard. Butter makes the fish a bad color. Garnish with green or fried parsley. In broiling fish, be careful that your gridiron is clean.; when hot rub it over with suet to hinder the fish from sticking. The fish must be floured and seasoned before broiling. It must be broiled over a clear fire only, and with great care. Fish are boiled, fried, broiled, baked, stewed, in tact cooked in every imaginable fashion. In every kind the greatest atten- tion and cleanliness must be exercised. A broken, disfigured, abrased, or ill-cooked dish of fish presented at table, is quite sufficient to destroy the taste for it forever. nsH. 105 All salt fish require to be soaked in cold water before cook- ing, according to the time it has been in salt. When hard and dry, it will require thirty-six hours soaking, before dressing ; the water must be changed three or four times. Oysters must be fresh and fat to be good. They are in sea- son from September to May. The small ones, such as are sold by the quart, are good for pies, fritters, or stews ; the largest of this sort are nice for fry- ing or pickling for family use ; the largest for frying, broil- ing, &c. FRESH COD BOILED. The thickness of this fish being very unequal, the head and shoulders greatly preponderating, it is seldom boiled whole, because in a large fish the tail, from its thinness in comparison to the upper part of the fish, would be very much overdone. Tie up the head and shoulders well, place it in the kettle with enough cold water to completely cover it ; cast in a hand full of salt. The fish, if a small one, will be cooked in twenty minutes after it has boiled, if large it will take half an hour. Serve with plain boiled potatoes and drawn butter, parsley, or egg sauce. Garnish with sprigs of parsley ; lay a folded napkin on the dish under the fish. BAKED COD. Cut a large fine piece out of the middle of the fish ; skin it carefully ; stuffit with a stuffing composed of the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, the roe half-boiled, bread crumbs, grated lemon peel, butter, pepper, and salt, to taste. Bind it with the undressed white of an egg, sew in the stuffing with white thread. Bake it in a Dutch oven before the fire, turn it fre- quently, and baste it with butter ; serve with shrimp sauce, plain butter, or oyster sauce. A tin baking dish is preferable to any other for cooking this fish. E* 106 PRACTICAL COOKERY. BROILED FRESH COD. Split the fish by the backbone ; cut each side into pieces three inches wide ; roll in flour and broil it over a clear, brisk fire of coals ; lay the inside to the fire first. Have ready a dish, with a quarter of a pound of butter, in which is worked of salt and pepper each a teaspoon full ; lay the pieces of fish on as they are done ; turn them in the butter and serve. Or let the fish be cut across m steaks, of an inch in thickness, and finish in the same manner. CRIMPED COD. Cut the cod, which should be quite fresh, in handsome slices, and lay it for about three hours in spring water salted ; a little vinegar must be added, say one wine-glass full ; make a fish kettle more than three parts full of spring water, in which a large hand full of salt has been thrown, let it boil quickly, put in the cod, keep it boiling for ten minutes, it will then be enough ; take up the slices of fish with care, and lay them upon a fish plate ; garnish with sprigs of parsley, sliced lemon, horse- radish scraped into curls ; serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. cod's head. Secure it well with a strong string, not too thick ; put it into a fish kettle ; cover it with water ; put in a small hand full of salt, a wine glass full of vinegar, a quantity of scraped horse- radish. Place the fish upon a drainer, and when the water boils, put it into the kettle. Boil gently ; when the fish rises to the surface, it is enough ; drain it, and be very particular in sliding the fish into the fish plate, that it is not broken. Garnish with scraped horseradish and lemon. Serve with shrimp and oyster sauce. COD OMELET. Break into small pieces the thickest parts of a dressed cod, season it with a little grated nutmeg and a little pounded mace, FISH. 107 beat up six eggs well and mix with it, forming it into paste, fry it as an omelet and serve as hot as possible. STEWED SALT COD. Scald some soaked cod in boiling water for ten minutes ; scrape it, pick in flakes, and put it in a stewpan, with a table- spoon full of butter worked into the same of flour, moisten it with milk ; stew gently for ten minutes ; add pepper to taste, and serve hot ; put it in a deep dish, slice hard boiled eggs over, and sprigs of parsley around the edge. Serve for breakfast, with coffee and tea, and rolls or toast. CODFISH BALLS. Soak the codfish and boil it ; then chop it fine, add equal quantity of potatoes, mashed ; moisten with beaten eggs or milk and a bit of butter ; pepper it, and make it into round flat balls ; roll in flour slightly, and fry in hot lard or beef drippings until of a nice brown ; fry gently, and turn over. Serve for breakfast. FISH BALLS. Chop the fish very small, add some grated bread, parsley, pepper, salt, a little butter, and an egg. Mix all well together, and make into balls ; fry them brown. CODFISH TOAST. Pick the fish in pieces, and soak it in cold water until suf- ficiently fresh, then drain it well, and stir into it a tablespoon full of flour, half a teacup full of sweet cream, and two thirds of a teacup of milk, and one egg. Season it well with pep- per, and let it scald slow, stirring it well. Make a nice moist toast, well seasoned, and lay it on the platter, with the fish over it, and it is ready for the table, and is a fine dish. Made as above, without toast, is also good; with vegetables, butter may be used instead of cream. 108 PRACTICAL COOKERY. BUTTERED CODFISH. Pick and soak as above ; drain ; have a piece of butter as large as an egg, melted and hot. Stir into the fish a spoon full of flour to absorb all the water, and then lay it into the hot butter, stirring it well about five minutes ; then lay it upon the platter, pepper, and send it up. This, some prefer to any other mode of preparation. PLAIN BOILED SALT CODFISH. Soak the fish twelve or fifteen hours. In the morning take it from the water, and clean it nicely with a brush. Put it in- to the fish kettle, and rub over it a teacup full of molasses ; cover it with water, and let it boil fifteen minutes ; set your kettle back, where it will keep warm. Half an hour before dinner, put it on, and let it boil again. Slip it carefully from the strainer, on to a dish, and cover with a white napkin. Serve with melted butter, and hard boiled cuss. If these directions are followed, the fish will always be tender. TO BOIL HADDOCKS. Clean them very thoroughly, and take off the heads and the skin, put them into boiling water, throw in two moderate sizef- hands full of salt, let them boil as fast as possible, and when they rise to the surface (which they will do, if they have sud ficient room,) they are done enough. They are sent to table with plain butter for sauce. TO STEW HADDOCKS. Bone, cut off the heads, tails, fins, and do the trimming neatly, of two or three haddocks, or as many as are required, put them in three pints of water, with a teaspoon full of pepper corns, and a large onion, stew slowly five-and-thirty minutes, strain the gravy off, take up the fish, dredge it with flour, fry it brown over a clear fire, and replace it in the stock ; add half a tea- FISH. 109 spoon full of cayenne pepper, squeeze in half a lemon, a table- spoon full of ketchup, and stew till the gravy is of a rich con- sistency. These quantities are for three haddocks. HADDOCK TO BROIL. Flour it, broil it a fine brown over a quick, clear fire ; the higher you are able to place the gridiron the better ; serve with lobster sauce. HERRINGS. Herrings are dressed in a variety of fashions ; they are fried, boiled, broiled, dried, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, salted, and red her- rings; they are cleaned like any other sort of fish ; when fresh they are boiled and served with melted butter, white sauce, &c.; the salted herring should be soaked in cold water before it is cooked ; this is broiled : sometimes it is cut in pieces and eaten raw ; the red herring is split down the back, the head and tail taken off, and the fish broiled like the others ; they may be also dressed in the following manner : when they have laid in cold water some time, soak them in milk for two hours, then split them down the back, have ready some melted but- ter in which has been mixed the yolks of two eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, rub the herrings well with this bread, then broil them over a gentle fire ; serve with lemon juice ; the best red her- rings are full of roe, and firm and large, and have a yellow cast ; of the fresh herrings the scales are bright, if good, the eye is full and the gill red ; the fish should be stiff. FRESH HERRINGS BROILED. To broil them, steep them first in vinegar and water, into which a hand full of salt has been thrown; let ihem remain ten minutes, take them out and broil them over a clear fire, (the bars of the gridiron should be rubbed with suet, to pre- vent the skin of the fish adhering to it.) Serve, garnished with 110 PRACTICAL COOKERY. parsley. They may be eaten with melted butter, with a little mustard and vinegar in it, or lemon juice instead of the latter, being preferable. H ALIB UT STEWED. Put into a stewpan half a pint of fish broth, a tablespoon full of vinegar, and one of mushroom ketchup, two good sized onions cut in quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs; add a pint and a half of water, let it stew an hour and a quarter, strain it off clear, put into it the head and shoulders of a fine halibut and stew until tender ; thicken with butter and flour, and serve. TO STEW LOBSTERS. Extract from the shells of two lobsters, previously boiled, all the meat ; take two-thirds of a quart of water, and stew the shells in it, with mace, unground pepper, and salt. Let it boil an hour or more, till you have obtained all that is to be had from the shells ; then strain. Add the richest portion of the lobster and some of the best of the firm meat to some thin melted butter; squeeze a small portion of lemon juice into it; add a tablespoon full of Maderia ; pour this into the gravy, and when warmed, it is ready, to serve. TO ROAST LOBSTERS. « Take live lobster ; half boil it ; remove it from the kettle in which it is boiling ; dry it with a cloth ; while hot, rub it over with butter ; set it before a good fire ; baste it with but- ter ; when it produces a fine froth, it is done ; serve with melted butter. LOBSTER COLD. Take the fish from the shell ; divide it in small pieces ; mash the scarlet meat ; prepare salad of cayenne pepper, salt, vine- gar, and mustard. Add oil, if liked. Mix the lobster with this preparation, and serve. FISH. Ill FRESH MACKEREL BOILED. Cleanse the fish thoroughly, inside and out ; remove the roe carefully ; steep it in vinegar and water, and replace it ; place the fish in water from which the chill has been taken, and boil very slowly from fifteen to twenty minutes; the best criterion is to be found in the starting of the eyes and splitting of the tail ; when that takes place, the fish is done ; take it out of the water instantly, or you will not preserve it whole. Garnish with fennel or parsley, and either, chopped fine in melted but- ter, serve up as sauce. Gooseberry sauce is occasionally sent to table, but it does not suit every palate. TO BROIL FRESH MACKEREL. Cleanse it well, and cut with a sharp knife a gash from head to tail, just sufficiently on one side to clear the back bone ; pass into the incision a little pepper (cayenne) and salt, moist- ened with clarified butter ; broil it over a clear fire ; be partic- ular that the bars of the gridiron are well rubbed over with suet, to prevent the skin of the mackerel adhering in turning ; the sides, being the thinnest part, will be first done ; take off the gridiron, and hold it in front of the fire for five minutes, the back of the fish being next the fire, and the fish will be thoroughly done ; this is the readiest and most effective mode. Sauces same as for boiled mackerel. SALT MACKEREL. Soak them two days, inside down, in cold water, changing the water once or twice ; when fresh enough, clean thoroughly, and wipe dry. It may then be fried or broiled, or boil in a little water. Serve the fish with bits of butter over it. SCALLOP OYSTERS. Wash clean some bottom shells of the oysters, if you have not silver shells or scallop shells ; butter and bread crumb 112 PRACTICAL COOKERY. them ; blanch your oysters ; either do them whole or cut them ; make a thick sauce with the liquor, adding a good spoon full of . white sauce ; season with cayenne pepper and salt ; fill in the shells and bread crumbs on the top, and sprinkle clarified butter on the tops ; brown in the oven ; dish them upon a napkin. ROAST OYSTERS. Large oysters not opened ; a few minutes before they are wanted, put them on a gridiron, over a moderate fire. When done, they will open ; do not lose the liquor that is in the shell with the oyster ; send them hot upon a napkin. BAKED OR SCALLOPED OYSTERS. Grate a small loaf of stale bread. Butter a deep dish well, and cover the sides and bottom with bread crumbs. Fill the dish half full of oysters, with a little ground mace and pepper. Cover them with crumbs and small bits of butter, strewed over them. Then fill up the dish with oysters ; season them, and cover them as before, with crumbs and butter. If the oysters are fresh, pour in a little of the liquor : if they are salt, substi- tute a little water. Bake them a very short time. STEWED OYSTERS. They should be only boiled a few minutes. Add to them a little water, salt, a sufficient quantity of butter, and pepper ; roll crackers fine and stir in. Some prefer toast of bread, laid in the bottom of the dish, with less cracker. They should be served hot. STEWED OYSTERS ANOTHER. The oysters should be rinsed in their own liquor, which should be then strained and thickened with flour and butter, and placed with the oysters in a stewpan ; add mace, and some white pepper, whole ; these ingredients had better be FISH. 113 confined in a piece of muslin. The stew must only simmer ; if it is suffered to boil, the oyster will become hard ; serve with slices of bread. This may be varied by adding a glass of wine to the liquor, before the oysters are put in and warmed. OYSTER FRITTERS. The liquor should be separated from the oysters, and strained. Add to it half a pint of milk, and two beaten eggs; stir in flour, to make a smooth, thin batter; add the oysters; fry in lard, boiling hot. putting in the batter and ore or more oysters, with a spoon, at each time. Turn the fritters till brown. Serve for breakfast or supper. FRIED OYSTERS. Large ones are the best. Wipe them dry ; dip them in batter, or roll them in flour, or cracker rolled fine ; fry them five minutes, with a little hot lard in the pan, turning them over carefully. A little of the liquor may be added to the gravy in the pan, after the oysters are cooked ; dish gravy with the oysters. OYSTERS. If eaten immediately upon being opened, neither vinegar nor pepper should be taken with them, or the flavor will dis- appear in the taste of the vinegar. FRIED OYSTERS, TO GARNISH BOILED FISH. Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs ; season it a very lit- tle ; dip the oysters into it, and fry them to a fine yellow brown. A little nutmeg should be put into the seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into the flour. PICKLED OYSTERS. Let them be fine and large, and put them over a gentle fire, with their liquor; add a bit of butter ; simmer, and stir, to S 114 PRACTICAL COOKERY. prevent burning. When plump and white, remove the oys- ters; spread them on a thickly folded cloth, on a table, to cool. Take of their own liquor half enough to cover them, and as much good vinegar ; make it hot ; have ready a stone pot or tureen ; put into it a layer of oysters ; over them strew a salt- spoon full of ground mace, and a dozen cloves, allspice, and whole pepper. Then another layer of oysters, and spice and oysters alternately ; then pour over the vinegar and juice. They will be fit for use the next day, and will remain good for months, in a cold place. They may be put in glass jars or bottles ; a little sweet oil put in the top of each, and stopped and sealed tight, they will keep good for a year. A bit of cotton applied to the top of a bottle, after drawing the cork, will absorb the oil. OYSTER PIE. Line a deep pie plate with pie crust; fill it with dry pieces of bread ; cover it over with puff paste ; bake it to a light brown, either in a quick oven or bake pan. Have the oysters stewed just by the time the crust is done ; take off the upper crust ; remove the pieces of bread ; put in the oysters ; sea- son them with salt, pepper, and butter. A little walnut cat- sup improves the pie, but is not essential ; cover it with the crust. OYSTCR PANCAKES. Mix equal quantities of milk and oyster juice together. To a pint of the liquor, when mixed, put a pint of wheat flour, a few oysters, a couple of eggs, and a little salt. Drop by the large spoon full into hot lard. CHOWDER. Lay some slices, cut from the fit part of pork, into a deep stewpan ; mix sliced onions, with a variety of sweet herbs, and lay them on the pork ; bone and cut a fresh cod into thin slices, FISH. 115 and place them on the pork ; then put a layer of pork ; on that a layer of biscuit ; then alternately the other materials, until the pan is nearly full ; season with pepper and salt ; put in about a quart of water ; cover the stewpan very close, and let it stand, with fire above as well as below, for four hours ; then skim it well, and it is done. FRESH SALMON BOILED. Scale and clean, cutting open no more than is necessary. Place it in a kettle of cold water, with a hand full of salt. Let it boil slowly, but it should be well cooked — about a quarter of an hour to a pound of fish. Skim it well, and as soon as done, lift it carefully into a napkin, to absorb the moisture, and wrap it close. Send to table on a hot dish; garnish with horse- radish and curled parsley, or boiled eggs, cut in rings, laid round the dish. Oyster sauce is best with fresh boiled fish. SALMON ROASTED. Take a large piece from the middle of a very fine salmon ; dredge well with flour ; and, while roasting, baste it with but- ter. Serve, garnished with lemon. COLLARED SALMON. Cut off the head and shoulders, and the thinnest part of the tail, thus leaving the primest part of the salmon to be collared. Split it, and having washed and wiped it well, make a com- pound of cayenne pepper, white pepper, a little salt, and some pounded mace. Rub the fish well with this mixture, inside and out ; roll, and bandage with broad tape ; lay it in a sauce- pan ; cover it with water and vinegar, one part of the latter to two of the former ; add a tablespoon full of pepper — black and white, whole — and some salt. Keep the lid closed down. Simmer until enough ; strain off the liquor ; let it cool ; pour over the fish when cold. 110 PRACTICAL COOKERY. SALMON BROILED. Cut the fish in slices, from the be>t part; each slice should be an inch thick ; season well with pepper and salt ; wrap each slice in white paper, which has been buttered with fresh butter ; fasten each end by twisting or tying ; broil over a very clear fire eight minutes. Serve with butter, or tomato sauce. SMOKED SALMON. Clean and scale ; cut the fish up the back ; take out the roe and the bone neatly. Rub inside and out, with equal parts of Havana sugar and salt, and a little saltpetre. Press the fish flat, with a board and weights on it two days. Drain from the salt; wipe it, and stretch it open, and fasten with a pin or stick. Then hang up, and smoke over a wood fire five or six days. When used, soak the slices in lukewarm water, and broil for breakfast. BAKED SHAD. In the first place, make a stuffing of the head, seasoned with pepper, salt, cloves, and sweet marjoram ; moisten it with the beaten yolk of an egg. Stuff the fish; rub the outside with the yolk of egg, and some of the stuffing. Lay the fish in a deep pan, putting its tail to its mouth. Pour in the pan a lit- tle water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Bake two hours; pour the gravy round it; garnish with sliced lemon, and send to table. Any fish may be baked in this way. BROILED SHAD. Cut the fish the same as for frying, or merely split it in two ; lay it on a gridiron, over a bright, steady fire of coals ; let it broil gently; put the inside to the fire first, that it may be done through ; have ready a deep dish, with nearly a quarter of a pound of sweet butter, and a teaspoon full of salt and pep- per each, worked into it ; when both sides of the fish are done, FISH. 117 lay it on the dish ; turn it several times in the butter ; cover it with a tin cover, and set the dish where it will keep hot, until ready to serve. TO BOIL SHAD. Split, wash, and dry in a cloth. Season with salt and pep- per. Grease the gridiron ; Jay the fish, the outside uppermost, over coals, and broil a quarter of an hour or more. Butter it well ; season with pepper and salt ; send to table hot. STURGEON BROILED. Cut a fine piece of the fish ; and, skinning it, divide it into slices. Beat up three eggs, and dip each of the slices into them ; powder fine bread crumbs, mixed with finely chopped parsley ; pepper and salt over them ; fold them in paper, and broil them, being careful that the fire is clear. Send them to table with essence of anchovies, and soy, accompanied by cold butter. STURGEON ROASTED. Cut into slices as above, but do not remove the skin ; split the pieces; roast tenderly, basting frequently with butter. Make a brown gravy ; flavor it with essence of anchovies ; squeeze in a quarter of a lemon, and add a glass of sherry ; serve up with the fish. STURGEON CUTLETS. Take off the skin ; cut from the tail piece slices half an inch thick ; rub them with salt, and broil over a hot fire ; butter, and sprinkle on them cayenne pepper ; or first dip them in beaten yolk of egg and bread crumbs, and wrap them up in buttered papers, and broil over a clear fire. Send to table without the papers. EEL.'S BREAD CRUMBED. Skin, dress, and cut your fish in pieces two inches long ; dry and flour them, and proceed as for other fried fish ; dish them on a napkin, with fried parsley. 118 PRACTICAL COOKERY. FRIED EELS. Skin, dress, and cut into pieces, cleaned nicely, and well dried; let them be coated with yolk of egg, powdered with bread crumbs ; fry them brown ; serve with parsley and but- ter. Garnish with handsome sprigs of parsley. BOILED EELS. Choose the smallest ; simmer in a small quantity of water, into which a quantity of parsley has been put. Garnish, and serve with same sauce as the last. STEWED TAUTOG, OR BLACK FISH. Stuff the fish with pork, onions, bread, salt, and pepper. Lay it whole length in the kettle, keeping it well covered, to keep in the steam. When it is about half done, pour a little melted butter over it. Stew it very slowly for two hours. Make a gravy of claret wine, scorched flour, pepper, cayenne, and cloves. TROUT. Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour ; fry them in butter until they are a rich clear brown ; fry some green parsley ; crisp and make some plain melted butter ; the butter may be poured over the fish, but it is most advisable to send it in a butter tureen. TROUT STEWED. This is a pleasing and delicate dish when nicely stewed. It is dressed very much in the fashion of other small fish stewed, only that it requires more care, perhaps, in the different pro- cesses. First wash and clean the fish ; wipe it perfectly dry ; put into a stewpan two ounces of butter ; dredge flour in as it melts, and add grated nutmeg, a little mace, and a little cay- enne. Stew well, and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, lay FISH. 119 in the fish, which having suffered to slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal gravy ; throw in a little salt, a small fagot of parsley, a few rings of lemon peel ; stew slowly forty min- utes ; take out the fish ; strain the gravy clear, and pour it over the fish. TURBOT. Place the turbot, previously to cooking, to soak, in salt and water, in which a little vinegar has been poured ; lay it upon its back in the fish kettle ; fill the latter three parts full with cold water ; throw in a hand full of salt, and a gill of vinegar ; let it boil very gradually, and when it boils, add cold water, to check ; thirty minutes is sufficient to cook it ; serve it upon a cloth, as boiled, with its back to the dish ; garnish tastefully with sprigs of parsley, and horse-radish scraped into curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries and parsley. Lobster sauce. PIKE AND PICKEREL. These favorite fish may be stewed, fried, or boiled, in the same manner as most other fresh fish. SOFT SHELL CLAMS STEWED. Take the clams from the shell, and free them from the black skin ; wash, and put them in the pan, with a little water ; stew over a gentle fire for half an hour; add butter; dredge with flour, and salt and pepper to taste ; stir in ; cover ten minutes, and serve hot. HARD SHELL CLAMS FRIED. Get the large sand clams ; wash them in their own liquor ; dip them in wheat flour or rolled crackers, and fry in hot lard or beef dripping, without salt ; or dip each one in batter made as for clam fritters. 120 PRACTICAL COOKERY. i CHOWDER. Fry three or four slices of salt pork till brown ; cut each of your fish into five or six slices; flour, and put a layer of them in your pork fat ; sprinkle on pepper and a little salt ; add cloves, mace, and sliced onions, if you like; lay on several hits of your fried pork, and crackers previously soaked soft in cold water. Tliis process repeat till you get in all the fish ; then turn on water enough to just cover them ; put on a heated bakepan lid ; when the fish have stewed about twenty minutes, take them up, and mix a couple of teaspoons full of flour with a little water, and stir it into the gravy ; also a little butter and pepper. Half a pint of white wine, spices, and catsup, will improve it. Bass and cod make the best chowder ; black fish and clams make tolerably good ones. The hard part of the clams should be cut off, and thrown away. FISH SALADS. All kinds of fish left from the former days, make good sal- ads; introduce all the articles as for fish salads, cutting the fish, when cold, into thin slices, and using fillets of anchovies. FISH FORCE MEAT BALLS. Take a little uncooked fish ; chop it fine, together with a lit- tle raw salt pork ; mix it with one or two raw eggs, a few crumbs of bread, and season the whole with pepper and spices. Add a little catsup, if you like; do them up into small balls, and fry them till brown. CHAPTER XI. SAUCES. Few things require more care than making sauces. As most of them should be stirred constantly, the whole attention should be directed to them ; the better way is to prepare the sauces before cooking tho-;e articles which demand equal care; they may be kept hot; butter, and those sauces containing eggs, ought never to boil. The thickest stewpans should be used for making sauces, and wooden spoons for stirring them. ANCHOVY SAUCE. To about half a pint of melted butter, put two tablespoons flail of good essence of anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon. Serve very hot. APPLE SAUCE. Pare, quarter, and core a quarter of a peck of rich, tart ap- ples; put them in a stewpan, with a teacup of water; add some finely chopped lemon-peel, and a large cup of sugar; grate half a nutmeg over, and cover the stewpan ; let them stew gently for half an hour, then mash them fine ; add a tea- cup of butter, and serve with boiled rice or boiled batter pudding. BREAD SAUCE. Cut in slices the crumb of a French roll, to which add a few peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling milk enough to cover it; let it simmer gently by the side of the fire, till the bread soaks up the milk ; add a little thick cream ; F 122 PRACTICAL COOKERY. take out the onion, and rub the whole through a sieve ; make it very hot, and serve with game or fowls. BREAD SAUCE ANOTHER. Take crumbs, of bread, soak them in milk,, and put them over the fire with a small piece of butter, a little salt, mace, two or three cloves, some whole pepper, and a very little chop- ped onion ; stew it slowly until the bread is thoroughly boiled up with the milk ; it should be perfectly smooth, and of the consistency of drawn butter ; serve with plain boiled fish. SAUCE, BROWN. Take a pound or two of steaks, two or three pounds of veal, some pickings of fowls, carrots and onions ; put all these into a saucepan with a glass of water, and set it on a brisk fire ; when scarcely any moisture remains, put it on a slow fire that the jelly may take the color without burning ; and as soon as it is brown, moisten it with stock or water; add a bunch of green onions or parsley, two cloves; salt it well, and set it on the fire for three hours, then strain in ; boil it half an hour over a gentle fire ; take off all the fat, and run it through a bolting-cloth, or fine sieve. CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze; and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice capers, salt, and pepper, and a spoon full of es- sence of anchovies. CRANBERRY SAUCE. Wash and pick a pint of cranberries ; put them in a stewpan with a small teacup of water, and a large teacup of sugar over ; cover them ; let them stew gently for nearly an hour in a sauce dish. SAUCES. 123 COD SAUCE. Take a bunch of parsley, a small onion, two cloves, some mushrooms, and a bit of butter ; soak all together on the fire, adding a small teaspoon full of flour, and milk or cream suffi- cient to boil to the consistence of a sauce, and add to it some chopped parsley first scalded. CREAM SAUCE. Put into a stewpan a little butter, a little parsley, and a few green onions, all cut small ; turn. them a few times over the fire ; then add some flour, and moisten with cream or milk ; let the whole boil for a quarter of an hour ; strain off the sauce, and when you want it for use, put in a litttle butter, some pars- ley just scalded and chopped fine, salt, and whole pepper ; then thicken the same over the fire ; this may be used with all kinds of. dishes that are done white. EGG SAUCE. Boil three eggs hard ; cut them in small squares, and mix them in good butter sauce ; make it very hot, and squeeze in some lemon juice before you serve it. FRESH PORK SAUCE. Cut two or three good sized onions into slices, and fry them lightly ; then add a little broth, a few mushrooms chopped, a clove of garlic, vinegar and spice ; let it boil half an hour, re- duce to a proper consistence, skim and strain it. GARLIC SAUCE. Take two cloves of garlic, and pound them with a piece of fresh butter about the size of a nutmeg ; roll it through a double hair sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter, or beef gravy, or make it with garlic vinegar. 124 PRACTICAL COOKERY. HORSERADISH SAUCE, HOT. Slice two onions and fry them in oil ; and when they begin to color, put them into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, the same of broth, two slices of lemon peeled, two cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, thyme, basil, and two cloves ; boil these a quarter of an hour, and then strain it ; add capers, and an an- chovy chopped, pepper, salt, and a spoon full of horseradish boiled to a pulp ; warm the whole without boiling. LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and ten white peppercorns. ^Simmer it gently, till it tastes well of the lem- on ; then strain it, and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into a dessertspoon full of flour ; boil it up ; then pour the juice of the lemon, strained, into it, stirring well ; dish the fowls, and then mix a little white gravy, quite hot, with the cream, but do not boil them together ; add salt ac- cording to taste. LEMON SAUCE, FOR PUDDINGS. Boil a fresh lemon skin in plenty of water, until a straw will penetrate it ; then cut it into slices, and each slice in quar- ters ; put to them and the juice a teacup of sugar, and the same of butter, with a large teaspoon full of wheat flour, worked into it; put all together into a stewpan, and stir in gradually half a pint of boiling water; keep it over the fire for ten min- utes, stirring it all the time ; then serve, with half a nutmeg grated over. LEMON CONSERVE. Put a half pound of fresh butter into a saucepan ; when softened to a cream, add one pound of powdered loaf sugar ; then add the yolks of six eggs, well beaten, and the whites of sauces. 125 two, beaten to a froth ; the grated rinds of two lemons, dried for a few days in the sun, and the juice of three; stirring the whole over the fire until it is of the thickness of good cream. Be sure not to let it boil. This is excellent with griddle cakes. • MINT SAUCE. Strip off the leaves, and chop them fine ; add an equal amount of sugar, and cover the whole with vinegar. A small teacup full of the mixture will be sufficient for a large family. Try this,, and see if not far preferable to greasy gravies. LOBSTER SAUCE. Put the spawn of a lobster into a mortar, with a bit of butter and well pound it ; then rub it through a fine sieve ; put some butter sauce into a stewpan, and the spawn of the lobster ; set it on the fire till it is very hot, and looks quite smooth and red ; if not smooth, pass it through a sieve ; then put in the meat of the lobster, cut into small dices ; make it very hot ; squeeze in a little lemon juice, and serve. MUSHROOM SAUCE. Cut some mushrooms into pieces ; press them in a cloth, and mince them; do them up in a little melted butter; then add some good stock parsley, two cloves of garlic ; skim and cook them over a moderate fire for half an hour ; strain ; take off the fat, and serve it very hot. OYSTER SAUCE. Save the liquor in opening the oysters, and boil it with a bit of mace and lemon peel. In the meantime, throw the oysters into cold water, and drain it off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with them, and as much butter, mixed with a little milk, as will make sauce enough ; but first rub a little flour with it. 12G PRACTICAL COOKERY. Set them over the fire, and stir all the time, and when the butter has boiled once or twice, take them off, and keep the saucepan near the fire, but not on it ; for, if done too much, the oysters will be hard. Squeeze a little lemon juice, and serve. A little cream is a great improvement. Observe, the oys- ters will thin the sauce, so put butter accordingly. * ONION SAUCE. The onions must be peeled, and then boiled till they are tender ; then squeeze the water from them ; chop them, and add butter that has been melted, rich and smooth, with a lit- tle good milk, instead of water; give it one boil; serve it with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton ; a turnip boiled with the onions draws out the strength. SWEET SAUCE. Work a teacup of sugar into a teacup of butter, with a tea- spoon full of flour, and half a nutmeg, grated ; when it is a smooth paste, stir gradually into it half a pint of boiling water ; set it over the fire for ten myiutes ; stir it all the time; then turn it into a tureen, and serve with boiled batter or apple puddings. A glass of wine may be added to this, or a lemon sliced thin, and cut into dice ; put it in before putting it on the fire. rUDDING SAUCE. Half a pound of sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter, rubbed to a cream ; the rind and juice of a lemon. Just he- fore it is served, pour over half a pint of boiling wine, stirring it all the time. SAUCE FOR WILD FOWLS. Simmer a teacup full of port wine, the same quantity of good meat gravy, a little onion, a little pepper, salt, a grate of SAUCES. % 127 nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for .ten minutes; put a bit of but- ter and flour; give it all one boil, and pour it through the birds. In general, they are not stuffed as tame, but may be done so, if liked. WHITE SAUCE. Haifa pint of cream, a small piece of butter, rolled in flour, a wine glass of wine, some nutmeg, and grated lemon peel. Stir it over the fire till it boils. ■ SUPERIOR SAUCE, FOR PLUM PUDDING. Mix six yolks of eggs with four spoons full of sifted sugar and butter together; have a pint of boiling cream, which you will mix with your yolks ; afterward put it on the fire, and stir it until it is of the consistency of sauce ; then add to it a good wine-glass of brandy. TOMATO SAUCE, FOR HOT OR COLD MEATS. Put tomatoes, when perfectly ripe, into an earthen jar, and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, till they are quite soft ; then separate the skin from the pulp, and mix this with vinegar, and a few cloves of garlic, pounded, both of which must be proportioned to the quantity of fruit. Add salt to your taste. Keep the mixture in small, wide-mouthed bottles, well corked, and in a dry, cool place. WINE SAUCE. Beat a quarter of a pound of sweet butter to a cream ; add gradually to it a quarter of a pound of fine white sugar, and a wine-glass of wine, with half a nutmeg, grated ; continue to beat it until it is light and white ; then mould it into a neat form, and serve. Lemon or brandy sauces may be marie in the same manner, by substituting lemon or brandy for wine. 128 PRACTICAL COOKERY. WHITE SAUCE, FOR FRICASEE OF FOWLS, RABBITS, WHITE MEAT, FISH, OR VEGETABLES. It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favorite sauce, as the proportion of that flavor is but small. The water that has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit ; or a little broth, that may be in the house; or the feet and necks of chickens, or raw or dressed veal, will suffice. Stew with a little water any of these, with a bit of lemon peel, some sliced onions, some white pepper-corns, a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, until the flavor be good, then strain it and add a little good cream, a piece of butter, and a little flour; salt to your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added after the sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it well. Yolk of egg is often used in fricassee ; but if you have any cream, it is bet- ter, and the former is apt to curdle. VENISON SAUCE. Haifa pint of port wine, made hot, with a tablespoon full of white sugar, the same of currant jelly, and a bit of butter, the size of a large egg. FARCES AND STUFFINGS. For a veal stuffing, chop some suet fine, a little parsley, a small piece of onion ; rub through a dry sieve a small quantity of marjoram and thyme; add these to your suet; a grating of half a lemon, a few grains of nutmeg, a few bread crumbs, and one or two eggs ; mix all well together; season with pep- per and salt. If for game, scrape the raw livers into the stuffing, prepared as above, only, in addition, pound it all fine. . FORCE MEAT INGREDIENTS. Force meat should be made to cut with a knife, but not dry or heavy; no one flavor should predominate; according to what it is wanted for, a choice may be made from the &>h sauces. 129 lowing list ; be careful to use the least of those articles that are most pungent : cold fowl, or veal, or ham, scraped fat ba- con, beef suet, crumbs of ..bread, parsley, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites of eggs, beaten, to bind the mixture. Any of the following articles may be used, to alter the taste : oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, yolks of hard eggs, cayenne, garlic, pepper, in powder, or two or three cloves. F* 9 • v CHAPTER XII. VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. Vegetables form a most important feature in the art of cook- ing. Much depends upon boiling greens, and the manner in which it is done ; the water should be soft ; a hand full of salt should be thrown into the water, which should be made to boil before the greens are put in ; it should then be made what cooks term " gallop ; " the saucepan should be kept uncovered, and wl*# the greens sink they are done ; take them out, and quickly, too. Vegetables are a most useful accessory to our daily food, and should be made the object of a greater study than they are usually. Care should be taken in the preservation of vegetables for VEGETABLES, ETC. 131 winter use. Green beans may be preserved by being packed ill layers of salt. They should be soaked before being used. Carrots, beans, beet-roots, parsnips, and potatoes keep best in dry sand or earth in a cellar ; turnips keep best on a cellar bottom, or they may be kept the same as carrots, etc. What- ever earth remains about them, when taken from the ground, should not be taken off. When sprouts come on potatoes or other stored vegetables, they should be carefully cut off. Celery may be kept in the cellar all winter, by setting it in boxes filled with earth. Cabbage keep some time, by being laid on a stone floor, in the cellar. To keep pumpkin, it should be cut up and dried, or stewed and made up into cakes, which should be thoroughly dried in the oven or in the sun. Parsley should be gathered when young and tender and packed in a little sweet butter. ASPARAGUS. Let the stalks be lightly but well scraped, and as they are done, be thrown into cold water ; when all are finished, fasten them into bundles of equal size ; put them into boiling water ; throw in a hand full of salt ; boil until the end of the stalk be- comes tender ; it will be about half an hour ; cut a round of bread, and toast it to a clear brown ; moisten it with the water in which the asparagus was boiled, and arrange the stalks with the white end outward. A good melted butter must accom- pany it to table. Asparagus should be dressed as soon after it has been cut as practicable. ASPERGE A LA POIS — FRENCH RECIPE. When asparagus is first in season, and too small to make a handsome appearance, this mode of dressing is very good : take the asparagus and cut off only the green heads ; none of 132 PRACTICAL COOKERY. the white stalk must be retained ; put them into clear, cold water, and when clean, pop them into boiling water, in which salt has been thrown ; in ten minutes they will be tender ; the j may then be taken out and laid upon a white cloth, which must be used to wipe them dry ; lay in a stewpan a slice of butter ; when it is melted, put in the asparagus ; stew them over a quick fire; keep them turning ; when ten minutes have elapsed, dredge a little flour, and a small quantity of white sugar, in powder, over them ; beat up the yolks of a couple of eggs; pour over the asparagus just sufficient water to cover them ; boil up rapidly ; stir in the yolk of one egg ; and, ma- king a pyramid of the asparagus in the dish, serve very hot. BEETS. Break off the leaves, but do not cut beets, as that spoils both flavor and appearance ; wash them and boil them till tender ; then take them out into a basin of cold water, and rub all the outside skin off, with the hands ; then slice them thin in a dish, and just cover them with cold vinegar, and sprinkle with pep- per and salt, or quarter them, and lay them for a day or two in cold vinegar, as they are then fit for use. The tops of young beets are dressed as asparagus. BROCCOLI. Peel the thick skin of the stalks, and boil for a quarter of an hour with salt in the water. The small shoots will only re- quire half the time. They should be tied in bunches. Serve with toast and melted butter. GREEN OR STRINGED BEANS. Get young, tender beans ; take off the stem end, and the strings from the sides of the beans, and cut them in lozenges of an inch length ; then boil them tender in water to cover them. Some boil a bit of salt pork with them, or add to VEGETABLES, ETC. 133 them, when dished, butter, salt, and pepper, to taste. Green corn, cut from the cob, is cooked with them, and called suc- cotash. CELERY. Scrape and wash it well ; let it lie in cold water until just before being used ; dry it with a cloth ; trim it, and split down the stalks almost to the bottom. Send it to table in a celery glass, and eat with salt only ; or chop it fine, and make a salad dressing for it. CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWERS. Trim off the loose leaves of the cabbage ; cut the stalk in quarters, to the heart of the cabbage ; boil it an hour. If not boiled with corned meat, put a little salt in the water in which they are boiled. White cauliflowers are the best. Take off the outside leaves ; cut the stalk close to the leaves ; let them lie in salt and cold water for half an hour, before boiling them. Boil them fifteen or twenty minutes, according to the size. Milk and water is the best to boil them in, but clear water does very well. Put a little salt in the pot in which they are boiled. CABBAGE SALAD AND COLD SLAW. Take a hard, close head of cabbage ; cut it in two, and with a sharp knife shave it fine ; lay it in a dish, and garnish and finish as lettuce. For cold slaw, cut it in the same way ; then add to it a good bit of butter, some vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, and put it in a clean stewpan ; set it on the fire, and stir it with a silver spoon until the seasoning is mixed, and the butter melted. Serve in a covered dish. RED CABBAGE. This is eaten as salad, prepared as directed for cabbage salad or cold slaw, or it may be shaved fine and pickled. 134 PRACTICAL COOKERY. CARROTS. Carrots may be plain boiied, and served with a drawn b ■■■ ter sauce. They are generally used in soups, sliced or grated STEWED CUCUMBERS. Take two or three straight cucumbers ; cut off one end ; then take out the seeds ; lay them in vinegar, water, pepper, and salt; have some good farce, and fill each cucumber with it; dry your cucumbers well out of the vinegar first; then dry them in a clean rubber; then fry them, if for brown ; if for white, not ; take them out of the butter, and put them to stew into some good stock, one large onion, a fagot of herbs, a slice of lean ham, until tender; thicken the liquor, and strain ; season with vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and white pepper; glaze the cucumbers several times. GREENS. White mustard, spinach, water cresses, dandelions, and the leaves and roots of very small beets, are the best greens. Boil them, with a little salt and saleratus in the water. If not fresh and plump, soak them in salt and water half an hour, be- fore cooking them. When they are boiled enough, they will sink to the bottom of the pot. i LETTUCE. Strip off the outside leaves; split it, and lay it in cold water awhile. Drain and lay in a salad dish. Have ready two hard boiled eggs ; cut in two, and lay on the leaves. If you choose, it may be dressed with sugar and vinegar, with a lit- tle salt, before it goes to the table. Some prefer a dressing of salt, mustard, loaf sugar, vinegar, sweet oil, and a mashed hard boiled egg, with the salad cut fine and this over it. VEGETABLES, ETC. 135 HOMINY. There are three sizes of hominy ; the middle size is best — wash a teacup of it well in two or three waters ; all that is not good will rise to the top, drain it carefully off; then put to it a quart of water, and let it stand all night ; in the morning add to it a teaspoon full of salt, and set the vessel which contains it over the fire, in a kettle of boiling water ; one hour will boil it ; the reason for putting it in water is, that otherwise it is very apt to turn ; when it has absorbed all the water, stir it well with a spoon and serve. Coarse hominy requires five or six hours boiling — dried beans are cooked with it. ONIONS. White onions are best for boiling. Take off the skins and lay them in cold water for an hour or two before boiling. When boiled tender serve them with butter, pepper, and salt over, or a drawn butter. The red ones are good sliced thin, with vinegar, pepper, and salt. Onions may be fried like potatoes. GREEN PEAS. A delicious vegetable, a grateful accessory to many dishes of a more substantial nature. Green peas should be sent to table green ; no dish looks less tempting than peas if they w r ear an autumnal aspect. Peas should also be young, and as short a time as possible should be. suffered, to elapse between the periods of shelling and boiling. If it is a matter of consequence to send them to table in perfection, these rules must be strictly observed. They should be as near of a size as a discriminating eye can arrange them ; they should then be put in a cullender, and some cold water suffered to run through them in order to wash them ; then having the water in which they are to be boiled slightly salted, and boiling rapidly, pour in the peas ; keep the saucepan uncovered, and keep them boiling swiftly 136 PRACTICAL COOKERY. until tender; they will take about twenty minutes, barely so long, unless older than they should be ; drain completely, pour them into the tureen in which they are to be served, and in the center put a slice of butter, and when it has melted stir round the peas gently, adding pepper and salt ; serve as quickly and as hot as possible. PEAS STEWED IK CREAM. Put two or three pints of young green peas into a saucepan of boiling water; when they are nearly done and tender drain them in a cullender quite dry ; melt two ounces of butter in a clean stewpan, thicken it evenly with a little flour, shake it over the fire, but on no account let it brown, mix smoothly with it the fourth of a pint of cream, add half a teaspoon full of white sugar, bring it to a boil, pour in the peas, and keeping them moving until they are well heated, which will hardly occupy two minutes, send them to table immediately. HOW TO COOK POTATOES TO BOIL POTATOES. In Ireland potatoes are boiled in perfection. Potatoes should always be boiled in their "jackets;" peeling a potato before boiling is offering a premium for water to run through it, and go to table waxy and unpalatable; they should be thoroughly washed and put into cold water. In Ireland they always nick a piece of the skin on" before they place them in the pot ; the water is gradually heated, but never allowed to boil ; cold water should be added as soon as the water commences boil- ing, and it should thus be checked until the potatoes are done, the skins will not then be broken or cracked until the potato is thoroughly done ; pour the water off completely, and let the skins be thoroughly dry before peeling. TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. The sooner the new potatoes are cooked after being dug, the better they will eat ; clear off all the loose skins with a coarse VEGETABLES, ETC. 137 towel and cold water ; when they are thoroughly clean put them into scalding water, a quarter of an hour or twenty min- utes will be found sufficient to cook them ; strain off the water dry, sprinkle a little salt over the potatoes and send them to table. If very young, melted butter should accompany them. TO BOIL IRISH POTATOES. Wash your potatoes, then pare them, and throw them into a pail of cold water ; let them stand several hours, if convenient. Put them into boiling water, with a little salt, let them boil about twenty minutes, or till you can pass a fork through them, pour off the water, and let them stand a few moments to dry. Take them out one, or if small, two at a time into a clean crash towel, and wring them. They will be dry and mealy, as twenty years experience has proved. ROASTED POTATOES. Clean thoroughly ; nick a small piece out of the skin, and roast in the oven ; a little butter is sometimes rubbed over the skin to make them crisp. POTATOES IN HASTE. A very nice little dish may be made of potatoes, in about fif- teen minutes (or less if the water is boiling ;) peel and cut some potatoes in slices, a quarter or half an inch thick ; pour on them boiling water, enough to cover them, and let them boil till ten- der; skim them; then add butter with flour, worked in it in proportion to the quantity of potatoes, let it boil up once, add a little chopped parsley, and serve, with the addition of pepper to taste. FRIED OR BROILED POTATOES. Cut cold boiled potatoes, in slices a quarter of an inch thick; have ready a fryingpan with hot lard or dripping, in which put some salt, lay in the potatoes, and let them fry a delicate 138 PRACTICAL COOKERY. brown, turning them as they require, or lay them on a grid- iron over bright coals, and as they are done take them on a hot dish, with butter, pepper, and salt to taste. POTATOES GLAZED. Boil well ; skin them ; choose the most floury, roll them in yolk of egg, and place them before the fire to brown. POTATO RISSOLES. Boil the potatoes floury ; mash them, seasoning with salt and a little cayenne; mince parsley very finely and work up with the potatoes, adding an onion also chopped small; bind with yolk of egg, roll into balls, and fry with fresh butter over a clear fire. Meat shred finely, bacon or ham may be added. POTATO RAGOUT. Mash floury potatoes, make them into balls with yolk of egg, flour, and fry them ; drain off all grease, cover them with brown sauce, and serve. PORRIDGE, OR, SOUP OF POTATOES. Mash them ; after having boiled them quite hot, mix them with some fine white veal gravy, thicken with cream ; it should, when done, be of the consistency of apple sauce. TO MASH POTATOES. Boil the potatoes as above; peel them, remove all the eyes and lumps; beat them up with butter and salt until they are quite smooth ; force them into a mould which has been pre- viously floured, turn into a tureen, which the flour will enable you easily to do; brown them before the fire, turning gently so as not to injure the shape, and when a nice color send to table. They are sometimes coated with white of egg, but they may be cooked without VEGETABLES, ETC. • 139 POTATO BALLS. Mash some floury potatoes quite smooth, season with pep- per and salt, acid fresh butter until sufficiently moist, but not too much so ; make into balls, roll them in vermicelli crum- bled, or bread crumbs ; in the latter case they may be brushed with the yolk of egg; fry them a nice brown. Serve them on a napkin, or round a dish of mashed potatoes which has not been moulded. SWEET POTATOES BAKED. Wash them perfectly clean, wipe them dry, and bake in a quick oven, according to their size — half an hour for quite small size, three-quarters for larger, and a full hour for the lar- gest. Let the oven have a good heat, and do not open it, un- less it is necessary to turn them, until they are done. PARSNIP FRITTERS. Boil four or five parsnips; when tender, take off the skin and mash them fine, add to them a teaspoon full of wheat flour and a beaten egg; put a tablespoon full of lard or beef drip- ping in a fryingpan over the fire, add to it a saltspoon full of salt ; when- boiling hot, put in the parsnips, make it in small cakes with a spoon ; when one side is a delicate brown, turn the oth- er ; when both are done, take them on a dish, put a very little of the fat in which they were fried over, and serve hot. These resemble very nearly the taste of the salsify or oyster plant, and will generally be preferred. PARSNIPS. Wash parsnips and boil them with the skins on ; when done, scrape them and slice them with butter, pepper, and salt; or fry them as potatoes in hot lard — or they may be stewed down with me.it. RADISHES. Wash them, and let them lie in clean, cold water as soon as thej bw i r- »ught in. Before the} 7- go to table scrape off the out- 140 PRACTICAL COOKERY. side skin, trim the sharp end. leave the stalk about an inch long; if large, split them in four, half way down, and send them to the table in tumblers, to be eaten with salt. SQUASHES. Summer squashes, if very young, may be boiled whole — if not, they should be pared, quartered, and the seeds taken out. When boiled very tender, take them up, put them in a strong cloth, and press out all the water — mash them, salt and but- ter them to your taste. The neck part of the winter squash is the be>t. Cut it in narrow strips, take off the rind, and boil the squash in salt and water till tender — then drain off the water, and let the squash steam over a moderate fire for ten or twelve minutes. It is good mashed — if mashed, add a little butter. GREEN SWEET CORN*. Corn is much sweeter to be boiled on the cob. If made into succota-h, cut it from the cobs, and boil it with Lima beans, and a few slices of salt pork. It requires boiling from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to its age. SEAKALE Requires to be very well done — there is little occasion to fear doing it too much; tie in bundles after washing and trimming, boil it in equal parts of milk and water, and serve it with melt- ed butter. It may be laid on toast or not, according to taste. After being well bo'led it must be thoroughly drained be- fore laving upon the toast; five-and-twenty minutes will be found sufficient to boil it. PORRIDGE OF TURNIPS. Tare and cut up several turnips into slices, put them on to boil in milk and water until tender, strain them on the back of a sieve, throw away the liquor, and rub through the turnips; VEGETABLES. ETC. 141 when done put them into a stew T pan with a piece of butter, a spoon full of flour, a gill of cream, a little sugar, salt, and cay- enne pepper. BROILED MUSHROOMS. Pare some large, open mushrooms, leaving the stalks on, paring them to a point;' wash them well, turn them on the back of a sieve to drain. Put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, some chopped parsley, and onions ; fry them for a minute on the fire ; when melted place your mushroom stalks upwards on a pan, then pour the butter and parsley over all the mush- rooms; pepper and salt them well with black pepper, put them in the oven to broil ; when done put a little good stock to them, give them a boil, and dish them ; pour the liquor over them, add more gravy, but let it be put in hot ; an hour and a quarter before it is done add four tablespoons full of red wine ■ o the liquor ; serve very hot. SALAD. Take one or two lettuces, split them in two, thoroughly wash them, and drain the water from them, then cut them into small pieces, and mix them with small salad, celery, and beet root; cut in small pieces some young radishes, and sliced cucumber, and an egg boiled hard cut into pieces and garnished about them. Make a sauce with the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, which rub well together in a basin with a wooden spoon ; add a little pepper, salt, and mustard ; when these are mixed to a smooth paste put in a few teaspoons full of sweet oil, mixing it well between each spoon full ; then mix in a few teaspoons full of vinegar in the same manner; when the sauce is mixed according to the directions, it will never require shaking, and will always look like cream ; pour this sauce over the salad, or serve it in a cruet. 142 PRACTICAL COOKERY. SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER. The best way to cook it. is to parboil it, (after scraping off the outside,) then cut in slices, dip it into a beaten egg, and fine bread crumbs, and fry it in lard. It is very good broiled, then stewed a few minutes in milk, with a little butter and salt. Another way which is very good, is to make a batter of wheat flour, milk and eggs; cut the salsify in thin slices, (after hav- ing been boiled tender.) put them into the batter with a little salt; drop this mixture into hot fat, by the large spoon full. When a light brown, they are cooked sufficiently. TOMATOES If very ripe will skin easily ; if not, pour scalding water on them, and let them remain in it four or five minutes. Peel and put them in a stewpan, with a tablespoon full of water, if not very juicy ; if so, no water will be required. Put in a little salt, and stew them for half an hour ; then turn them, in- to a deep dish with buttered toast. Another way of cooking them, which is considered very nice by epicures, is to put them in a deep dish, with fine bread crumbs, crackers pounded fine, a layer of each alternately ; put small bits of butter, a little salt and pepper on each layer — some cooks add a little nut- meg and sugar. Have a layer of bread crumbs on the top. Bake it three quarters of an hour. TOMATOES RAW. Tomatoes may be sliced thin, and served with salt, pepper, and vinegar over, for breakfast; or sliced, and strewn with su- gar and grated nutmeg, for tea ; for dinner they may be stewed, or broiled, or baked. SOUTHERN MODE OF BOILING RICE. Have the water boiling. Allow at least two quarts of water to a pint of rice ; throw in a teaspoon full of salt ; wash and VEGETABLES, ETC. 143 pick clean and put in ; let it boil twenty minutes, and if not then dry, turn off the water, and let it stand on the coals a few moments, with the lid off. The kernels will be white, and preferred by many. Use in the place of pudding, with a sweet sauce, or with meats as a vegetable. Rice is better for being soaked two or three hours. CHAPTER XIII. POTTED MEATS. BEEF POTTED. Take three pounds of lean beef, salt it two or three days with half a pound of salt and half an ounce of saltpetre, divide it into pieces of a pound each and put it into an earthen pan just sufc ficient to contain it; pour in half a pint of water, cover it close with paste and set it in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven pour the gravy from it into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten it with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thoroughly in a marble mortar with fresh butter, until it becomes a fine paste ; season it with black pepper and allspice, or cloves pounded, or nutmeg grated ; put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, put a weight on it and let it stand all night; next day, when quite cold, cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, and tie it over with paper. another. Take some lean beef, rub it with salt and saltpetre, let it lie three or four days, cut in pieces, and boil it, then beat it to a powder, mixing it with some fat ; add spice, put it in pots, and pour butter over it. BEEF POTTED LIKE VENISON. Take a whole thin flank of beef, pull off the inward skin, and cut it across, particularly in the thickest parts lay it for six hours in water, take as much saltpetre as the quantity of an egg, mix with about two pounds of white salt, and rub it well POTTED MEATS. 145 into the meat ; then sprinkle upon it nearly a pint of* wine vine- gar, and let it lie for three or four days, turning and rubbing it once a day ; rinse it out of the brine with a pint of claret, and season it with cloves, mace, and nutmeg, white and Jamaica pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce ; bake all together with savory, thyme, sage, and the rind of a lemon shred together, and well rubbed into the cuts and slashes on the inside*, bind it up with tape, and lay it in a long pot ; put in the claret, and lay the skins at the top to save it ; then bake. BIRDS POTTED HOW TO PRESERVE WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GROW OLD. When birds are sent a long way, they often smell so bad that they can hardly be borne, from the rankness of the but- ter. By doing them in the following way, they will be as if only fresh done. Set a large saucepan of clean water on the fire ; when it boils take off the butter at the top ; then take the birds, one by one, throw them into the saucepan of water half a minute, and take one out and dry it well, mside and out ; do so till they are all done, and scald your pot clean ; when the birds are quite cold season with mace, pepper and salt, ac- cording to taste, and put them down in a close pot, with clar- ified butter over them. CHEESE POTTED. Take three pounds of Cheshire cheese, and half a pound of the best butter, beat it in a mortar, add a large glass of sack, half an ounce of mace beaten and sifted, mix it well, pot it, and pour clarified butter over it. CHICKEN OR POTTED HAM. Season some pieces of chicken with mace, cloves, and pep- per, and bake for about two hours in a close covered pan, with some water, then pound them quite small. After they are G 10 146 PRACTICAL COOKERV. pounded, moisten with either melted butter or the liquor that they are baked in. Take equal quantities of ground mace, cloves and pepper, and put this with the chicken in alternate layers, in small earthen pots ; press them down tight, and cover them with lard. Ham is potted in the same way. • GAME OF ALL KINDS. Any dressed game you may have in your larder. Pound well in your mortar all the tender meat, free from skin and bone, with an equal quantity of good fat ham ; add to it some pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, white pepper and a few grains of powdered sugar ; if you have no ham, use an equal quantity of butter instead. When well pounded, rub it through a wire sieve ; mix it up well again, and place it tightly in earthen shapes ; cover each jar over with lard ; turn out with warm water, when required either for breakfast, luncheon, or a second course. . LOBSTERS POTTED. Take out the meat as whole as you can, split the tail, and remove the gut ; if the inside is not watery add that, season with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and one or two cloves in the finest powder ; put a little butter at the bottom of the pan, and the lobsters smooth over ; bake it gently. When done pour the whole on the bottom of the sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces into potting jars, some of each sort, with the seasoning about it ; when cold pour clarified butter over it, but if not, it will be good the day after it is done, and if sea- soned high and thickly covered with butter will keep some time. Potted lobsters may be used cold, or as fricasee with cream sauce. PARTRIDGE POTTED. Let your partridges be cleaned and seasoned with mace, all- spice white pepper, and salt, powdered ; rub every part well ; POTTED MEATS. 147 then lay them in a stewpan, breast downwards, putting the birds as close as possible ; put plenty of butter over them ; cover the pan with a coarse flour paste, and a paper, and bake. When cold, put the birds into pots, and cover them with butter. PIGEONS POTTED. Be careful that they are fresh ; clean, and season them with salt and pepper, and lay them close together in a small, deep pan, for the closer they are put the less butter they will take. Cover them with butter, tie them over with a thin paper, and bake them. When cold, put them to dry in pots that will hold two or three in each, and pour butter over them, using that which was baked as some ; mind the butter should be thick over them. If they are done for keeping, the pigeons would lie closer and want less butter if they are boned, and put into the pot in an oval form. They may be stuffed with force meat, made with veal and bacon, &c, and they will eat very well. If a high seasoning is preferred, add more allspice and a little cayenne pepper, before baking. VEAL POTTED. Take part of a knuckle of veal that has been stewed, bake it for the purpose, beat it to paste, with butter, salt, white pep- per, and mace pounded, pot it, and pour clarified butter over. ANOTHER. Take one pound of lean veal, put it into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, sifted mace, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom pow- der, a small quantity of each, a little thyme, savory, and a small onion chopped fine ; stew them ten minutes, then pound them, add a pound of the mellow part of a boiled tongue beaten to a paste, half a pound of cold fresh butter ; mix all well to- 148 PRACTICAL COOKERY. gether, with two eggs, well beaten, then press th^ u**^. tight in small pots, cover them with paper, and put them into a moderate oven; Lake twenty minutes, then pour over them clarified butter. VENISON POTTED. Put the venison into a pan, and pour red wine over it, and cover it with a pound of butter ; put a paste over the pan ; set it in the oven to bake. When done take the meat out of the gravy, beat it well with the butter that has risen to the top, add more if necessary, season with pepper, salt, and mace, pounded ; put into pots, set them in the oven for a -few minutes ; when cold cover with clarified butter. CHAPTER XIV. PIES, PUDDINGS, TARTS, TARTLETS, PUFFS, ETC. The greatest possible cleanliness and nicety should be ob- served in making pastry. The slab or board, paste-rollers, tins, cutters, stamps, everything, in fact, used for it, and especially the hands, should be equally free from the slightest soil or par- ticle of dust. The more expeditiously the finer kinds of crust are made and dispatched to the oven, and the less they are touched, the better. Much of their excellence depends upon the baking, also ; they should have a sufficient degree of heat to raise them quickly, but not so fierce a one as to color them too much before they are done, and still less to burn them. The oven door should remain closed after they are put 150 PRACTICAL COOKERY. in, and not be removed until the paste is set. Large raised pies require a steadily sustained heat, and to insure this, the oven should be made very hot, then cleared, and closely shut from half to a whole hour before it is used, to concentrate the heat. In mixing paste, the water should be added gradually, and the whole gently drawn together with the fingers, until sufficient has been added, when it should be lightly kneaded until it is as smooth as possible. When carelessly made, the surface is of- ten left covered with small dry crumbs or lumps, or the water is poured in heedlessly in so large a proportion that it becomes necessary to add more flour to render it workable in any way ; and this ought particularly to be avoided when a certain weight of all the ingredients has been taken. PUFF PASTE FOR PATTIES OR FIRST COURSE. DISHES. Take one pound of butter, salt or fresh,* and one pound of flour. Put your flour upon your board, work in with your hands lightly a quarter of the butter ; then add water sufficient to make it the stiffness or softness of the remaining butter ; each should be the same substance ; work it up smooth, then roll it out lengthwise half an inch thick ; place the remainder of the butter cut in slices half way on the paste ; dust flour lightly over it, and double it up ; press it down with your roll- ing-pin and let it lie a few minutes, then roll it three times, thinner each time, letting it lie a few minutes between each roll, and keep it free from sticking to the board or rolling-pin. VERY SUPERIOR SUET CRUST. Strip the skin entirely from some fresh veal or beef kidney suet ; chop, and then put it into the mortar, with a small quan- tity of pure flavored lard or butter, and pound it perfectly smooth ; it may then be used for crust in the same way that butter is, in making puff paste, and in this form will be found PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 151 a most excellent substitute for it, for hot pies or tarts. It is not quite so good for those which are to be served cold. Eight ounces of suet pounded with two of butter, and worked with the fingers into a pound of flour, will make an exceedingly good short crust ; but for a very rich one, the proportion must be increased. Good short crust : flour, one pound ; suet eight ounces ; but- ter, two ounces ; salt, half a teaspoon full. Richer crust: suet, sixteen ounces ; butter, four ounces ; flour, one pound and a half; salt, one small teaspoon full. PASTE FOR BORDERS OF DISHES. Six or eight yolks of eggs, a few drops of water, a little salt ; keep mixing in flour until so stiff you can scarce work it, beat it and work quite smooth, and keep it moist until you require it ; then roll it out quite thin, and cut your patterns, placing upon your dishes before it gets too dry, dipping them on the bottom. Edge in white of eggs. FANCY PASTRY. Use some fancy cutter, and use the second paste, cutting each piece a quarter of an inch thick, egg them and glaze them, and bake them a light brown ; when cold put different colored sweetmeats, such as apple jelly, red currant jelly, &c, into de- vices upon the top of each piece ; dish them upon a napkin. SANDWICH PASTRY. The prepared paste you will cut into lengths about three inches, and a half or quarter of an inch thick, lay each piece on its side upon the baking sheet without paper, each an inch apart ; it will take twenty-four pieces to make a dish. When half baked, cover each piece thickly over with sifted sugar, then return them to the oven until getting a little colored ; take them out and hold a red hot shovel at a distance over them 152 PRACTICAL COOKERY. until they are a beautiful gloss, then take them off upon paper on a dish ; spread one piece with some sort of jam, then place the other cup on it until all is done, and dish them on a napkin round. SWEET OR BISCUIT CRUST. Put half a pound of flour on your board ; put into it the yolks of two eggs ; mix this all up so that you cannot see the egg and then add a good desertspoon full of fine sifted sugar; work it well in the flour; then work in about two ounces of butter and mix water or milk sufficient to make a stiff paste. Beat it with your rolling-pin well, and work it well with your hands until quite smooth, roll half a quarter of an inch in thickness, for your tarts, either for slip tarts or covered, and glaze the covered tarts either before going into the oven or after ; if first, beat up a little white of egg, and spread it on the top of your tart, then cover it with sugar then gently sprinkle the sugar M'ith water until all is damped, then sugar it again, and bake it in a slow fire ; notch the edge of your tart very fine. BEEF STEAK PIE. Take some good steaks, beat them with a rolling-pin, and season them with pepper and salt ; fill a dish with them, adding as much water as will half fill it, then cover it with a good crust, and bake it well. COLD VEAL OR CHICKEN' PIE. Lay a crust into a shallow tart-dish, and fill it with the fol- lowing mixture : Shred cold veal or fowl, and half the quan- tity of ham, mostly lean ; put to it a little cream ; season with white and cayenne pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and a small piece of onion, chopped as fine as possible ; cover with crust, and turn it out of the dish when baked, or bake the crust with PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 153 a piece of bread, to keep it hollow, and warm the mince with a little cream, and pour in. FISH PIE. This pie may be made of any fish — salmon, pike, eel, or any other. Scale your fish, and cut it into pieces ; line your pie dish with a good crust ; put in the fish, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a little ^lt, some bruised spices, and a layer of butter on the top ; put on the crust, and bake for an hour and a half; when done, remove the fat, and put in a vegetable ragout, made thus : stir a little butter and flour over the fire until a pale brown ; moisten with half a pint of sherry, some thin soup ; add a few mushrooms, a little salt, and a bunch of herbs ; let it boil half an hour ; add the soft roes of carp, parboiled ; stew a quarter of an hour, and then put the ragout into the pies. Any vegetable ragout may be used. GIBLET PIE. For goose giblets, you must boil them a short time ; when cold, chop them in small pieces, and cut the gizzard, heart, and liver in slices ; stew them for a quarter of an hour in some good stock ; when cold, line your dish with veal cutlets, or rump steaks ; use hard boiled eggs to this pie ; then season ; if to go into an imitation raised pie, thicken the giblets — if in a dish, garnish. PIE RAISED, TO BE SERVED HOT. Make a stiff paste, as for raised pies, which mix with warm water ; when well mixed together, roll it out thin ; cut a piece out for the bottom, and two for the sides, according to the shape of the dish ; egg the edges you intend to join, and press them well together, so that the joining may not be seen ; shape it ; garnish it with leaves or festoons, according to your taste ; fill it nearly to the top with bran ; egg it, and let it be baked G* 154 PRACTICAL COOKERY. in a moderate oven ; when done of a light color, turn out the bran, and set it ready for what you intend to put in, which may be cutlets of mutton, stewed with vegetables, partridge, brown sauce, chickens, cut up, stewed carp, or eels. PORK PIES, TO EAT COLD. Raise common boiled crust into either a round or oval form, as you choose ; have ready the trimmings and small bits of pork, cut off when a hog is killed ; and if these are not enough, take the meat oft* the sweet bone ; beat it well with a rolling- pin ; season with cayenne and white pepper, and salt, and keep the fat and lean separate ; put it in layers, quite close up to the top ; lay on the lid ; cut the edge smooth ; round and and pinchit ; bake it in a slow oven, as the meat is very solid. The pork may be put into a common dish, with a very plain crust, and be quite as good ; observe to put no bone or water into pork pie ; the outside of the pieces will be hard, unless they are cut small and pressed close. VEAL OR CHICKEN AND PARSLEY PIE. Cut some slices from the leg or neck of veal ; if the leg, from about the knuckle. Sea- son them with salt ; scald some picked parsley, and squeeze it dry ; chop it a little, and lay it at the bottom of the dish ; then put the meat, &c, in layers ; fill the dish with new milk, but not so high as to touch the crust ; cover it, and when baked, pour out a little of the milk, and put in half a pint of good scalded cream. Chicken may be cut up, skinned, and made the same way. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 155 FAMILY PIE CRUST. Work into a pound of sifted flour half a pound of sweet lard, or beef dripping, with a dessertspoon full of salt ; when thoroughly mixed, put to it enough cold water to bind it to- gether ; flour the paste-slab, or table, and rolling-pin ; take a part of the paste, and roll it to less than a quarter of an inch thickness. For the upper or outside crust of a pie, roll the paste out thin ; spread a bit of butter, half the size of an egg : over it ; fold it up, roll it out again, and cover the pie. Some are of the opinion that no under-crust should be made to apple or other fruit pie. It is always heavy, and not fit to eat. Place a narrow rim of paste around the edge of the plate, and fill with the fruit, either raw or stewed, and cover it. The juices will be retained much better, and it will save flour and butter, which is no trifling consideration in these days; and, what is of more consequence, it saves dyspepsia, which costs more. After cutting, they are taken out with a spoon. MINCE PIE. The best kind of meat for minco pies is neat's tongue and feet. Boil the meat till perfectly tender; then take it up; clear it from the bones and gristle ; chop it fine enough to strain through a sieve ; mix it with an equal weight of tart apples, chopped very fine. If the meat is not fat, put in a lit- tle suet or melted butter. Moisten the whole with cider ; sweeten it to the taste with su2;ar and verv little molasses ; add mace, cinnamon, cloves, and salt to the taste. If you wish to make your pies rich, put in wine or brandy to the taste, and raisins, citron, and Zante currants. The grated rind and juice of lemons improve the pie. Make the pies on shallow plates, with apertures in the upper crust, and bake them from half to three-quarters of an hour, according to the heat of the oven. Meat prepared for pies in the following manner will keep 156 PRACTICAL COOKERY. good several months, if kept in a cool, dry place ; To a pound of finely chopped meat, a quarter of a pound of suet, put half an ounce of mace, one ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, two teaspoons full of salt. Add, if you like, the fol- lowing fruits : half a pound of seeded raisins, half a pound of Zante currants, a quarter of a pound of citron. Put in half a pint of French brandy or wine, three tablespoons full of mo- lasses, and sugar sufficient to make it quite sweet. Put the whole in a stone pot, and cover it with a paper wet in brandy. When you wish to use any of it for pies, put to what meat you use an equal weight of apples, pared and chopped fine. If not seasoned high enough, add more spice and sugar. If the apples are not tart, put in lemon juice or sour cider. MINCE PIES WITHOUT MEAT. Take of currants, apples, chopped fine, moist sugar, and suet, well chopped, a pound of each, a quarter of a pound of raisins, stoned and chopped small, the juice of four Seville oranges, the juice of two lemons, the rind of one shred fine, nutmeg, and mace, to suit the palate, and a glass of brandy. Mix all to- gether ; put it in a pan, and keep it closely tied up. MINCE PIES. One pound of lean beef, boiled tender and chopped fine ; one pound of beef suet ; a half pound of apples, chopped ; two pounds of currants ; one pound of raisins, seeded and chopped ; a quarter of a pound of citron. Add sugar, salt, nutmeg, mace, cloves, wine, and brandy to your taste. LEMON MINCE PIES. Take a large lemon ; squeeze the juice from it, and boil the outside till it becomes soft enough to beat to a mash ; put to it three large apples, four ounces of suet, the same of sugar, and half a pound of currants; add the juice of the lemon, and PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. * 157 some candied fruit, the same as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty-pans in the usual way. LEMON PIES. Pare two lemons ; take out the seeds ; chop the rind and pulps ; add one egg, a small piece of butter, a small teacup of flour, three cups of sugar, two of water. Bake in a paste. This quantity will make two pies. APPLE MINCE PIES. One pound of well washed and dried Zante currants, one pound of peeled and chopped apples, one pound of suet, chopped fine, one pound of moist sugar, a quarter of a pound of rai- sins, stoned and cut in two, the juice of four oranges and two lemons, with the chopped peel of one ; add of ground mace and allspice each a teaspoon full, and a wine-glass of brandv ; mix them well together, and keep it closely covered in a dry, cool place. Bake with two crusts, the same as mince pies. PUMPKIN PIE. Stew the pumpkin in a covered vessel until soft enough to mash ; then set a cullender or sieve into a basin, and press it through into the basin ; when rubbed through, add to it milk enough to make a thin batter ; to every quart of this batter put four well beaten eggs, a small teacup of sugar, and a salt- spoon full of salt ; for each quart, grate in a nutmeg, and a teaspoon full of extract of lemon, and some ground ginger, if liked. Many prefer it without ginger. Line flat bottomed pie dishes with pie paste, and nearly fill them with the pumpkin mixture ; lay a strip of paste around the edge ; trim off the outside neatly, and bake three-quarters of an hour, in a quick oven ; the top of the pie should be deli- cately brown. Ornament to taste. 158 • PRACTICAL COOKERY. PUMPKIN PIE. To one pound of boiled and sifted pumpkin add one pint of cream, a half pound of sugar, six eggs, and spice to your taste. SQUASH PIES. Boil and sift the squash, and make them exactly like pump- kin pies. Carrot and sweet potato pies are made in the same way, with crackers; eggs or rice should always be used with them. APPLE PIE. Pare, quarter, and slice the apples. If not ripe, stew them in just water enough to prevent burning. When soft, sweeten and season to the taste. "When ripe, they are better not to be stewed before baking. Fill the pie plates ; cover with a thick crust, and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour. When baked sufficiently, cut the upper crust through the cen- ter; remove it carefully with a broad knife; put a piece of butter, of the size of a walnut, into a pie ; sweeten it to your taste, and if the apples are not tart enough, squeeze in the juice of part of a lemon ; flavor the pie with either nutmeg, rosewater, or grated lemon peel. Apples cut into quarters, without paring, and stewed soft in new cider and molasses, make good plain pies. The apples should be strained after stewing, and seasoned with cinnamon or nutmeg. If made quite sweet, it will keep good several months. DRIED APPLE PIE. Stew the apples soft ; turn them into a pan and mash them fine ; add half the peel of a lemon, cut fine, or a little grated nutmeg, a sprinkle of salt, molasses or sugar, to make them quite sweet. Bake them in a rich paste, a little over half an hour. This will be quite as good as fresh fruit. PIES. PUDDINGS, ETC. 159 CURRANT AND GOOSEBERRY PIE. Currants and gooseberries are the best for pies when of full growth, just before they begin to turn ; they are tolerably good when ripe. Currants, mixed with ripe raspberries or mulberries, make very nice pies. Green currants and goose- berries for pies are not sweet enough, without the sugar is scalded in before they are baked, as the juice of the currants is apt to run out while they are baking, and leave the fruit dry. Stew them on a moderate fire, with a teacup of water to a couple of quarts of currants ; as soon as they begin to break, add the sugar, and let it scald in a few minutes. When baked without stewing, put to each layer of fruit a thick layer of sugar. There should be as much as a quarter of a pound of sugar to a pint of currants, to make them sufficiently sweet. Green currant pies are good, sweetened with molasses and sugar, mixed. CRANBERRY PIE OR TARTS. Pick a quart of cranberries, free from imperfections ; put a pint of water to them, and put them in a stewpan, over a mod- erate fire ; put a pound of clean brown sugar to them, and stew them gently until they are all soft ; mash them with a silver spoon, and turn them into a dish, to become cold ; then make them into pies or tarts, and bake. Many persons put flour in cranberry pies ; it is a great mistake, as it completely spoils the color of the fruit. RHUBARB PIE. Cut the large stalks off where the leaves commence ; strip off the outside skin ; then cut the stalk in pieces half an inch long ; line a pie dish with paste, rolled rather thicker than a dollar piece ; put in a layer of the rhubarb, nearly an inch deep ; to a quart bowl of cut rhubarb, put a large teacup of sugar ; strew it over, with a saltspoon full of salt, and half a nutmeg, grated ; cover with a rich pie crust ; cut a slit in thy 100 PRACTICAL COOKERY. center ; trim off the edge with a sharp knife, and bake in a quick oven, until the pie loosens from the dish. APRICOT PIE. Take eighteen fine apricots ; cut them in halves, and take out the stones ; place them in a dish lined with puff paste ; add four ounces of powdered sugar, and four ounces of butter, lukewarm ; then put on the upper crust ; glaze with the white of egg, and sprinkle sifted sugar all over, and bake in a mod- erate oven. RED SUGAR-BEET PIE. Pies made of the red sugar-beet are said to be delicious, somewhat resembling rhubarb pie in flavor, though more rich and substantial. It is seasoned with vinegar, sugar, and spices, to suit the palate. The root may be used without boiling, be- ing chopped fine. Prepare the crust, and bake as you would a green apple pie. COCOANUT PIE. Grate the white part, and mix with milk. Let it boil slowly eight or ten minutes. To a pint and a half of cocoanut add a quart of milk, four eggs, half a cup of sweet cream, two spoons full of melted butter, a cracker, rolled fine, and half a nutmeg. The cocoanut should cool before the eggs and sugar are stewed in. Bake in a deep plate, in a quick oven. IIUCKLE OR WHORTLEBERRY PIE. Clean a quart of berries in water ; line a buttered pie dish with a pie paste; put in the berries half an inch deep; and to a quart of berries put a teacup of brown sugar, and half a tea- cup of water ; dredge a teaspoon full of flour over ; strew a saltspoon full of salt, and half a nutmeg, grated over ; cover the pie; cut a slit in the center, or make several small in- cisions on either side of it; trim it off neatly with a sharp knife, and bake it in a quick oven for three-quarters of an hour. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 161 TOMATO PIE. Take green tomatoes ; turn boiling water on them, and let them remain in it a few minutes ; then strip off the skin ; cut the tomatoes in slices, and put them in deep pie plates ; sprinkle sugar over each layer, and a little ginger ; grated lemon peel, and the juice of a lemon improve the pie. Cover the pies with a thick crust, and bake them slowly for about an hour. BLACKBERRY PIE. Pick the berries clean ; rinse them in cold water, and finish as directed for huckleberries. CREAM PIES. Beat four or five eggs light ; then stir them into a quart of sweet scalding cream ; add salt, a teaspoon full of the extract of lemon or peach water, and half a nutmeg, grated, if liked ; sweeten to taste ; line the dishes with pie paste, rolled quite thin ; set them in a quick oven for ten minutes ; then put in the cream nearly to fill them, and bake for half an hour. These pies, and also pumpkin and custard pies, may be very prettily ornamented, when half baked, with flowers, stars, or letters, cut from thin rolled paste ; if letters or love-knots are used, form them of narrow strips of paste ; the cream or cus- tard must be firm before these are put on, otherwise they will sink. SWEET MARLBOROUGH PIE. Procure sweet, mellow apples ; pare and grate them. To a pint of the grated pulp put a pint of milk, a couple of eggs, two tablespoons full of melted butter, the grated peel of a lemon, and half a wine-glass of brandy. Sweeten it to the taste with nice brown sugar. The eggs should be beaten to a froth, then the sugar stirred into them, and mixed with the rest of the ingredients. A little stewed pumpkin, mixed with the 11 162 PRACTICAL COOKER V. apples, improves the pie. Bake the pie in deep plates, with- out an upper crust. PLAIN CUSTARD PIE. Boil a quart of milk with half a dozen peach leaves, or the rind of a lemon. When they have flavored the milk, strain it, and set it where it will boil. Mix a tablespoon full of flour, smoothly, with a couple of tablespoons full of milk, and stir it into the boiling milk. Let it boil a minute, stirring it con- stantly; take it from the fire, and when cool, put in three beaten eggs ; sweeten it to the taste ; turn it into deep pie plates, and bake the pies directly, in a quick oven. CHERRY PIE. Stone your cherries, that you may be sure they are free from worms. Lay your paste in a deep dish, and add a good quantity of fruit ; fill the dish with molasses, with a hand full of flour sprinkled over, then a nice paste, and bake more than half an hour. If sugar is used, you will need water and flour. This makes the gravy very rich, and the pie delightful. LEMON PIE. Boil six fresh lemons in water until a straw will penetrate the skin ; then take them out ; chop them fine, and take out the seeds ; to a pound of light brown sugar put a teacup of water; let it boil, skimming it clear until it is a nice syrup; then put in the lemon, and set it to cool ; cover a shallow plate with pie paste ; put in the lemon, spread out to nearly the edge ; cover with a paste ; cut a slit in the center, and bake. LEMOX PUDDING Take the yolks of ten eggs, a half pound of sugar, six ounces of butter, four tablespoons full of wine, four of cream, two of rosewater, two crackers, pounded very fine, the peel of three lemons grated, and the juice of two. Bake in a crust. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 163 LEMON TART. Make as directed for pie, and instead of a top crust, roll out the paste, cut it in strips, and lay it across, and bake. PEACH PIE. Peaches for pie may be ripe, but not soft ; pare them ; cut them up, and finish as directed for apple pies. Unripe peaches may be pared and stewed as directed for apple tart, and baked in a pie or tart. CORN STARCH PIE. To one quart of milk put two tablespoons full of corn starch, and two eggs. Sweeten, salt, and season to the taste. Line a pie plate with crust, and bake as custard. DIRECTIONS FOR PUDDINGS. Puddings should be boiled in tin forms, rubbed over on the inside with butter ; or in muslin bags, which should be dipped into boiling water, and then be rubbed over on the inside with flour. A small pail will answer, with a cloth tied over it. If boiled in a tin form, do not let the water reach the top of it. If in a bag, it must be turned frequently. BARED APPLE PUDDING. Twelve large apples, stewed very dry, a quarter of a pound of butter, stirred in when the apples are nearly cold, sugar to your taste, one wine-glass of wine and rosewater, a little cinnamon and nutmeg, seven eggs, two hands full of bread, crumbed very fine. Bake twenty minutes. Serve with sauce, or sugar and cream. BOILED APPLE PUDDING. Make a batter with two well beaten eggs and a pint and a half of milk, with a pint of wheat flour ; beat until smooth and 164 PRACTICAL COOKERY. light; pare, quarter, and core five or six large, tender, tart ap. pies, and stir them into the batter, with a teaspoon full of salt ; tie it in a pudding-bag, and boil for two hours. Turn it out on a dish, and serve with sugar, butter, and nutmeg sauce. Huckleberries, cranberries, or other fruit may be thus used, instead of apples. PLAIN BOILED INDIAN PUDDING. Pour three pints of boiling milk to a large quart of Indian meal ; stir it well ; add a teacup, of molasses, a little salt, and two tablespoons full of flour. Boil four hours. CORN MEAL PUDDING. Let two quarts of water come to a boil ; then add a table- spoon full of salt ; take off the light scum from the top ; have sweet, fresh yellow or white corn meal ; stir it in gradually and thoroughly until it is as thick as you can stir easily, or until the stick will stand in it; stir it a while longer; let the fire be gentle ; when it is done enough, it will bubble or puff up ; turn it into a deep basin ; this is eaten cold or hot, with milk or with butter, and syrup or sugar, or with meat and gravy, the same as potatoes or rice. When cold, it may be cut into slices and fried. eve's pudding. Six eggs, six large apples, pared and chopped, six ounces of bread, crumbed line, six ounces of currants, six ounces of sugar. Three hours will boil it. PLUM PUDDING. Half a pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, half a pound of bread, grated, half a pound of apples, chopped, four ga, half a nutmeg, a wine-glass of brandy, a quarter of a pound of suet. Boil three hours. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 165 ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. One pound of flour, one pound of suet, one and a half pounds of currants, one pound of sugar, ten eggs, two spoons full of milk, two nutmegs, one gill of brandy and wine, mixed, citron. Boil six hours. This quantity will make two puddings in quart bowls. COCOANUT PUDDING. The cocoanut must be grated the flat way ; equal weight of loaf sugar, yolks of six eggs to one nut ; six spoons full of rosewater, sugar melted in the rosewater, and cocoanut put in and simmered over fine coals till the syrup is nearly dried up ; stir it constantly, or it will burn. Bake in a paste. SUNDERLAND PUDDING. Boil three pints of milk, seven spoons full of flour stirred into the milk, then seven well beaten eggs ; strain it. Boil it an hour, and serve with cold sauce. CUSTARD PUDDING BAKED. One pint of milk, eight eggs, two spoons full of flour, two of rosewater, half a nutmeg, a little salt, and sugar to the taste. Bake half an hour. APRICOT PUDDING. Whip up a pint of milk, or cream, six eggs, four tablespoons full of fine flour, a little salt, and a small portion of ciunamon. Rub the apricots through a sieve, and add enough of the pulp to make the whole rather thicker than batter ; sweeten ; pour it into a buttered basin, and boil an hour and a quarter ; serve with melted butter. BATTER PUDDING. Put into a stewpan six spoons full of flour, a teaspoon full salt, and half a nutmeg, grated ; mix them with a pint and a half of new milk, and stir in six eggs, beaten ; pour the batter 160 PRACTICAL COOKERY. into a well buttered basin or mould ; tie it tight with a cloth, and boil it two hours and a half. . Or it may be baked ; three- quarters of an hour will be sufficient. Stoned raisins or cur- rants may be added. BATTER PUDDING BOILED. Six eggs, six large spoons full of flour ; beat your eggs, and stir your flour gradually into them ; then stir in a quart of milk, and a little salt. Boil one hour. If boiled in a bag; flour it well ; if in a mould, be sure and have it full. BATTER PUDDING, WITH OR WITHOUT SUGAR. Beat up six eggs ; put about a pint of milk in a basin ; stir in by degrees about half a pound of flour ; add a little salt; mix in your eggs with a gill of cream ; strain it all through a very fine sieve ; butter your mould ; tie a cloth over the mould. Send up a sweet sauce, or melted butter, or hot cur- rant jelly ; if suet, add to your eggs some sifted sugar. BARLEY PUDDING. To a pound of pearl barley, well washed, add three quarts of new milk, half a pound of double refined sugar, and a nut- meg, grated ; then bake it in a deep pan. Remove it from the oven ; beat up six eggs ; mix well together ; pour it into a buttered dish, and bake it again for an hour. BREAD PUDDING. Soak two or three French rolls, cut into slices, in a pint of cream, or good milk ; add the yolks of six eggs, beaten, some sugar, orange flower water, three pounded macaroons, and a glass of white wine; tie it up in a basin, or buttered cloth ; put the pudding in boiling water, and let it boil for half an hour. Serve with wine sauce. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 167 PLAIN BAKED BREAD PUDDING. Pound rusked bread fine ; to five heaping tablespoons full of it put a quart of milk, three beaten eggs, three tablespoons full of rolled sugar, a teaspoon full of salt, half a nutmeg, and three tablespoons full of melted butter. Bake it about an hour. It does not need any sauce. ECONOMICAL PUDDING. Keep your pieces of bread, and dry them nicely ; when enough are collected, soak them in milk over night ; in the morning drain out all the milk you can through a cullender ; add to the bread some sugar, and a little salt, with some scalded raisins ; tie it in a bag, and boil five or six hours. Serve with sweet sauce. CARROT PUDDING. Take a large carrot ; boil it soft"; bruise it in a marble mor- tar, and mix with it a spoon full of biscuit powder, four yolks and two whites of eggs, a pint of cream, a large spoon full of rose or orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, two ounces of sugar ; bake it in a shallow dish ; turn it out, and serve with sugar over. CUSTARD PUDDING BOILED. Take a pint of cream, six eggs, well beaten, two spoons full of flour, half a nutmeg, grated, and salt and sugar to taste ; mix them together ; butter a cloth, and pour in the batter ; tie it up ; put it in a saucepan of boiling water, and boil it an hour and a half. Serve with melted butter. APPLE CHARLOTTE. Pare and slice a quantity of apples. Take the crust from a loaf of bread ; cut the rest in slices, and butter them. Butter a pie dish, and put the slices all round, then a layer of ap- ples, sprinkled with lemon peel, chopped very fine, and brown 1G8 PRACTICAL COOKERY. sugar; a layer of bread and butter, alternately, until the dish is full. Squeeze over the whole the juice of two lemons ; cover the dish with the crusts of bread and the apple parings, to pre- vent its browning too much. Bake an hour and a quarter ; then take off the crust and peels, and turn it out of the dish. Serve with sugar and cream, or butter. CHARLOTTE. Cut a sufficient number of thin slices of white bread to cover the bottom and line the sides of a baking dish, first rubbing it thickly with butter ; put thin slices of apples into the dish, in layers, till the dish is full, strewing butter and sugar between. In the meantime, soak as many thin slices of bread as will cover the whole, in warm milk, over which place a plate and a weight to keep the bread close upon the apples ; let it bake slowly for three hours ; for a middle sized dish, you should use half a pound of butter for the whole. CITRON PUDDING. Take a pint of cream, and the yolks of six eggs ; beat them together ; add four ounces of sugar, the same of citron, shred fine, two spoons full of flour, and a little nutmeg. Place this mixture in a deep dish ; bake it in a quick oven, and turn it out. CURRANT PUDDING. Take a pound of currants, a pound of suet, five eggs, four spoons full of flour, half a nutmeg, a teaspoon full of ginger, a little pow T dered sugar, and a little salt. Boil this for three hours. CHERRY PUDDING. Line a well buttered basin with a paste made of butter, or suet, ehopped small, rubbed into flour; put in picked cherries; PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 169 cover the top with a crust, and boil it. Fruit puddings may- be boiled in a cloth, without a basin. FLOUR PUDDING. Into a pint and a half of sifted flour stir gradually, so that it may not be lumpy, a quart of milk. Beat seven eggs and put in, together with a couple of tablespoons full of melted butter, and a. teaspoon full of salt. Grate in half of a nutmeg ; add, if you want the pudding very rich, half a pound of raisins. They should not be put into a baked pudding till it has been cooking long enough to thicken, so that the raisins will not sink to the bottom of it. A pudding made in this manner is good either baked or boiled. It takes two hours to boil, and an hour and a quarter to bake it. When boiled, the bag should not be more than two-thirds full, as flour puddings swell very much. Boil constantly. If the water boils away so as to leave any part of the bag uncovered, more boiling water should be added. When the pudding has boiled eight or nine min- utes, the bag should be turned over, otherwise the pudding will be heavy. Flour puddings should be eaten as soon as cooked, as they fall directly. Serve them up with rich sauce. DRIED APPLE PUDDING BOILED. Boil dried apples nearly done. Save a teacup of the juice of the apple, for a sauce. Chop them, and mix with soaked bread, and boil in a bag. Make a sauce of melted butter, sugar, and flour, with enough of the apple juice to give it the flavor of wine, and spice with nutmeg. It is excellent. JFNNY LIND PUDDING. One cup of sugar, one egg, one spoon full of butter, one cup of sweet milk, one pint of flour, two and a half teaspoons full of baking powder. Bake three quarters of an hour. Serve with sauce. H 170 PRACTICAL COOKERY. LEMON PUDDING. Boil four lemons, peeled thin till they are soft, rub them through a hair sieve, and preserve the fine pulp ; pour some boiling milk or cream, in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled, over a pound of Naples buiscuits, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little nutmeg. When cold, add to them the pulp of the lemons and eight eggs well beaten ; mix all together, and sweeten. Make a good puff paste, edge a dish with it, put in the mixture, ornament the top with strings of paste, and bake it in a moderate oven. BAKED MARROW PUDDING. A quarter of a pound of marrow, chopped fine, six sponge biscuits broken up, a few currants or raisins stoned, some can- died orange, lemon, and citron, cut into small dice, a little nut- meg, grating of half a lemon peel ; butter a pie or tart dish. Spread your cakes, marrow, alternately with the peels, five eggs broken in a basin, leave out two whites, beat them up, put half a pint of cream to it, and a cup of milk, sweeten with pounded sugar, according to the taste. Put a paste thin to your dish. CHICKEN PUDDING. Cut one into eight pieces, and half a pound of bacon, cut into slices; season with one teaspoon full of salt, half of pepper, two of chopped parsley, a little thyme, and one captain's biscuit, well broken ; fill the pudding with the meat ; add half pint of milk; boil for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter over, and chopped parsley on the top. MUTTON PUDDING. Cut some large slices from the upper part of an underdone leg of mutton, line a basin with a good suet crust, and put in the meat ; season well with pepper and salt, and an onion finely Bhred. Cover up with the paste, and boil it two hours. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 171 MUFFIN PUDDING WITH DRIED CHERRIES. Put four muffins into a pan, strain over them a pint and a half of milk boiled for ten minutes, a bit of lemon peel, and sugar to suit the taste. When cold, mash them with a wooden spoon, add half a pound of dried cherries, a gill of brandy, a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and pounded very fine, and six eggs well beaten ; mix all to- gether, and boil in a basin, or bake it in a dish lined with paste. OATMEAL PUDDING. Take a pint of the best fine oatmeal, pour a quart of boiling milk over it, and let it soak all night ; the next day put it in a basin just large enough to hold it, add two eggs beaten, and a little salt, cover it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour «md a half. It may be eaten hot, with cold butter and salt; or cold, sliced and toasted. ORANGE PUDDING. To half a pound of lump sugar press the juice of three Se- ville oranges ; take half a pound of butter melted thick and the yolks of ten eggs well beaten ; mix all thoroughly together with four ounces of blanched almonds well pounded with a little orange-flower water, and the peel of one of the oranges grated. Place a thin crust in the bottom of the dish. OLD ENGLISH CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. To make what is termed a pound pudding, take of raisins well-stoned, currants thoroughly washed, one pound each ; chop a pound of suet very finely and mix with them, add a quarter of a pound of flour, or bread very finely crumbled, three ounces of sugar, one ounce and a half of grated lemon peel, a blade of mace, half a small nutmeg, half a dozen eggs well beaten ; work it well together, put it into a cloth, tie it firmly — allowing room to swell — and boil, not less than five hours. It should not be suffered to stop boiling. 172 PRACTICAL COOKERY. POTATO PUDDING. Take two pounds of potatoes, wash, boil and mash them ; when cold add a pint of new milk, three eggs well beaten, two ounces of moist sugar, and a little nutmeg. Bake it. DERBYSHIRE PUDDING. Mix gradually two tablespoons full of flour with a pint of milk, boil it till thick, and when cold add three ounces of but- ter beaten to a cream, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, the rind of a lemon grated, the yolks of five and whites of three eggs, and a little salt ; mix all well together, put it in a dish lined round with paste, and bake it in a quick oven. This pud- ding is very nice cold. PUDDINGS IN HASTE. To grated bread add suet shred, a few currants, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, some grated lemon peel, and ginger ; mix and form it into balls, about the size and shape of an egg, with a little flour. Put them into boiling water, and boil them for twenty minutes. QUAKING PUDDING. Take a quart of cream, scald it, and when nearly cold, put to it four eggs well beaten, a spoon full and a half of flour, some nutmeg and sugar ; tie it tight in a buttered cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out carefully. Serve with melted butter, a little wine and sugar. QUINCE PUDDING. Take as many ripe quinces as will yield a pound of pulp ; to this add half a pound of powdered sugar, a little cinnamon ; mix them well, and add them to the yolks of eight eggs beaten in a pint of cream ; stir all together, and boil it in a floured cloth,. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETO. 173 POTATO PUDDING. One pound of boiled potatoes, mashed with a little milk, and strained, half a pound of sugar, six eggs, one lemon grated. Bake an hour. BOILED ALMOND PUDDING. Blanch one pound of almonds ; beat them in a mortar to a smooth paste, with three teaspoons full of rosewater. Add one gill of wine, one pint of cream, one gill of milk, one egg, one spoon mil of flour. Boil half an hour. BOILED PLUM PUDDING. Take one pound of good suet ; cut it in small pieces and add one pound of currants, and one of stoned raisins, eight eggs, one nutmeg, grated, one pound of flour, and one pint of milk ; to the eggs, previously well beaten, add one-half the milk, and mix well together ; stir in the flour, spice, fruit, and suet, and the remainder of the milk. Boil from four to five hours. # CREAM PUDDING. Beat six eggs to a froth ; then mix with them three table- spoons full of powdered white sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix a pint of milk with a pint of flour, and a tea- spoon full of salt ; then add the eggs and sugar. Just before it is baked, stir in a pint of thick cream. Bake it either in buttered cups, or a pudding dish. CUSTARD PUDDING. Stir a quart of milk very gradually into half a pint of flour ; mix it free from lumps, and put to it seven eggs, beaten with three tablespoons full of sugar, a teaspoon full of salt, and half of a grated nutmeg. Bake it three-quarters of an hour. BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING. Beat up six eggs, and add to them a pint of very good milk or cream ; sugar and nutmeg to taste. Butter the basin you 174 PRACTICAL COOKERY. boil it in, and dip the cloth you tie over into boiling water, and flour it. Twenty minutes will boil it. Serve with sauce. DELICATE RICE PUDDING. Boil half a pound of rice in three pints of milk, until the milk is absorbed by the rice ; turn it out of the saucepan, and when cold, add to it three well beaten eggs, with a little nutmeg and sugar. Put it into a buttered basin, and boil an hour. This, made in smaller proportions, is a light and pleasant pudding for an invalid. A bit of cinnamon may be boiled with the milk and rice. ROLY POLY. Make a paste crust ; roll it rather thin ; chop apples, and spread them, with some chopped lemon peel, over it; then be- gin at one side and roll it up ; tie it in a pudding cloth, and boil for two hours ; unless very small, serve with wine sauce. In the place of apples, any other fruit, jelly, or preserves may be used. • GERMAN TOAST FOR DESSERT. Cut in thick slices a loaf of stale bread — baker's is best ; lay it in a deep dish. Beat four eggs, and add to a quart of milk ; pour the liquid over the bread ; let it stand until it is all absorbed ; then lay the slices on a buttered griddle, and fry them to a delicate brown. Serve hot, with rich sauce. Bread prepared in the same way and baked, is very good. RICE PUDDING WITH CURRANTS. Boil for half an hour five ounces of whole rice, in a cloth, with room to swell ; then take it up ; add five ounces of cur- rants, three tablespoons full of suet, shred fine, and two eggs, well beaten ; tie it up again, and boil it an hour and a half. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 175 GROUND RICE PUDDING. In a pint of new milk boil two dessertspoons full of ground rice, adding a small piece of lemon peel and a little cinnamon. Keep it stirring while boiling, and let it boil ten minutes ; then let it cool ; when cold, add sugar to taste, a couple of well beaten eggs, and some nutmeg. Line your dish with a puff paste; pour in your rice, and bake a light brown. RICE PUDDING WITH FRUIT. Swell some rice in a little milk, over the fire ; then mix it with either currants or gooseberries, scalded, or apples, pared and quartered, raisins, or black currants ; add an egg to the rice, to bind it. Boil it well, and serve with sugar. SAGO PUDDING. Take half a pound of sago; wash it in several waters (warm,) then boil it with a pint of milk and a little cinnamon, stirring it often till it becomes thick ; pour it into a pan, and beat it up with a half pound of fresh butter ; add the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, beaten separately, a little flour, half a glass of white wine, and sugar to liking ; mix all well and boil it. Serve with sweet sauce. SAGO PUDDING. Three pints of milk and a cup of sago, boiled together till the sago is tender, with a stick of cinnamon ; while it is hot, stir in a small piece of butter, four eggs, sugar to your taste, and a little rosewater or lemon. Serve with powdered sugar. SUET PUDDING. Chop half a pound of beef suet extremely fine ; add the same quantity of flour, two eggs, well beaten, a small quantity of pounded and sifted sugar, and a little salt ; mix well to- gether with milk to a tolerable consistency, and either bake or boil it. 176 PRACTICAL COOKERY. SWEETMEAT PUDDING. Take one ounce each of orange and lemon peel, and citron ; slice them very thin ; line a dish with puff paste ; lay the peel at the bottom ; mix the yolks of seven eggs with the whites of two eggs, adding five ounces of sugar; pour it over the sweetmeats; put it into an oven well heated, and bake thirty-five minutes. TAPIOCA PUDDING. Soak four tablespoons full of tapioca in a quart of milk all night ; then add a spoon full of brandy, some lemon peel, and a little spice ; boil them gently; add four eggs, the whites well beaten, and a quarter of a pound of sugar ; bake it. TREACLE PUDDING. To a pound of stoned raisins add three quarters of a pound of shred suet, a pound of flour, a pint of milk, a tablespoon full of treacle, grated ginger, and pounded spice ; stir all up well, and boil it four hours in a floured cloth. VERMICELLI PUDDING. Take four ounces of vermicelli ; boil it soft in a pint of new milk, with a stick or two of cinnamon ; add half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, and the yolks of four eggs, well beaten ; put in a dish, and bake it. TAPIOCA PUDDING. Wash two large spoons full of tapioca, and put to a pint of milk ; the grated rind of a lemon, a small piece of butter, and sugar to your taste. Boil it an hour ; then add three well beaten eggs. Put it in a dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve with sauce, or sugar and cream. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 177 APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING. Soak a coffee cup full of tapioca in a quart of lukewarm water four hours. Pare and slice apples sufficient to nearly fill your dish ; put sugar and spice to your taste. Pour over the tapioca, and bake an hour. Serve with sugar and cream. MINUTE PUDDING. Put a pint and a half of milk on the fire. Mix five large tablespoons full of either wheat or rye flour, smoothly, with half a pint of milk, a teaspoon full of salt, and half of a grated nutmeg. When the milk boils, stir in the mixed flour and milk. Let the whole boil for one minute, stirring it constantly ; take it from the fire ; let it get lukewarm ; then add three beaten eggs. Set it back on the fire, and .stir it constantly un- til it thickens. Take it from the fire as soon as it boils. Serve with sauce. CORN PUDDINGS. Grate sweet green corn ; to three teacups of it, when grated, put two quarts of milk, eight eggs, a teaspoon full of salt, half a teacup of melted butter, and a grated nutmeg. Bake the pudding an hour ; serve it up with sauce. CRACKER PUDDING. Mix ten ounces of finely pounded crackers with a wine-glass of wine, a little salt, and half a nutmeg, three or four table- spoons full of sugar, and two of melted butter. Beat eight eggs to a froth ; mix them with three pints of milk, and turn them on the rest of the ingredients. Let it remain till the crackers soften ; then bake it. ^ APPLES IN BATTER. Pare and core several small sized apples ; set them in a deep dish ; make a rich batter, and pour it over them ; bake in a quick oven for one hour ; serve with wine sauce. H* 12 178 PRACTICAL COOKERT. CORN STARCH PUDDING. Corn starch makes an excellent pudding. Boil the milk in a pan, over a kettle of boiling water. For each quart of milk take six tablespoons full of starch, rubbed smooth in a little milk and three well beaten eggs. Pour them into the boiling milk, adding a little salt, and stir constantly for three minutes, and then turn it out for the table, or mould it in teacups, to be eaten cold. Sweetened cream with nutmeg is the best sauce. SUMMER SNOWBALLS. Simmer half a pound of rice until it is tender ; then strain it. Take five or six apples, of middling size ; pare them, and take out the core with a small knife or apple scoop, but do not cut them into sections. Into the hollow made by cutting out the core, put sugar and a little allspice. Divide the rice into a portion for each apple, and with the hand lay each por- tion equally over an apple, and tie them separately in a small cloth, and boil an hour. These dumplings or snowballs may be served with sweet sauce, or eaten with simple sugar, or molasses. SPONGE PUDDING. These puddings must be made with the greatest exactitude. Cream a quarter of a pound of butter, and add four eggs, the whites and yolks, two ounces of white, pounded sugar, and two tablespoons full of flour ; beat the whole up slowly ; fill six small cups, and bake them exactly twenty minutes. Serve with wine sauce. BISCUIT PUDDINGS. Mix together a quarter of a pound of bread crumbs, with the same quantity of brown sugar and butter ; five eggs, leav- ing out two whites, and then a quarter of a pint of milk ; bake twenty minutes in cups, as before. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 179 BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. Seven tablespoons full of meal, one of flour ; wet with a quart of milk. Thicken it over the fire like mush. Take it from the fire, and add a teacup of molasses, a little salt, and bake three quarters of an hour. SPOTTED DICK. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, half a pound of beef suet, half ditto of currants, two ounces of sugar, a little cinnamon ; mix with two eggs and two gills of milk ; boil in either mould or cloth for one hour and a half; serve with melted butter, and a little sugar over. BOILED INDIAN PUDDING. Boil a quart of milk, and stir in Indian meal till it is nearly as thick as you can stir it with a spoon ; then add a teaspoon full of salt, a cup full of molasses, a teaspoon full of ginger or ground cinnamon, and cold milk enough to make a thin bat- ter. Boil in a thick bag four hours. Care should be taken that the water does not stop boiling while the pudding is in. A dish made in this way, with the addition of a quart of chopped sweet apples, and baked from four to six hours, will be found delicious when served up hot, and eaten with sauce made of drawn butter, nutmeg, and wine. BOILING MUSH. It is very common to make mush by boiling only a few minutes. This is all wrong. It should be boiled one or two hours, and if longer, will do no harm. It will be necessary to occasionally add some hot water, to keep the mass thin, and prevent burning ; and it must be often stirred. APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare tart, mellow apples ; take out the cores, and fill the holes with sugar. Make a good pie crust, and enclose each 180 PRACTICAL COOKEKV. apple in pieces of the crust. Tie them up in pieces of cloth , well floured on the inside. Put into boiling water, and boil an hour, without stopping. Serve with pudding sauce, or but- ter and sugar. Ripe peaches, rhubarb, jelly, &c, may be substituted for apples. OXFORD DUMPLINGS. Soak eight ounces of biscuit, pounded fine, in just sufficient milk to cover it. When soft, stir in three beaten eggs, a tea- spoon full of flour, and a quarter of a pound of Zante currants. Grate in half a nutmeg, and do up into balls the size of an egg. Fry till a light brown. SIMPLE DESSERTS FOR SUMMER. Take six eggs, and beat them separately. With the yolks, a quart of milk, sugar, essence of lemon, or rosewater, make a custard. Beat the whites very stiff; have ready a kettle of boiling water, with a skimmer ; dip in slices of the whites just long enough to harden ; then lay them on a sieve till cold ; put the custard into a dish, and crisp and put the whites lightly over the top. Set on the ice, if convenient, till wanted, ANOTHER. Put plain boiled rice into a mould ; when cold, turn it out, and pour soft custard over it. ANOTHER. A quarter of a pound of sugar, and the same of butter, rubbed to a cream ; pour over a small teacup of boiling wa- ter ; put it in a lined saucepan, over the fire, and stir till it simmers. Have ready a pint of fresh strawberries ; stir them in carefully, and let them cook a moment. Put them into a deep dish, and stand them on the ice. Serve with cold rice, or sago. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 181 CURD. To a quart of milk put a large tablespoon full of rennet wine; let it stand till it turns; then set it on the ice till wanted. Serve with sugar and cream, and sweetmeats, if you choose. FLOATING ISLAND. Beat the whites of six eggs, and a tablespoon full of white, powdered sugar, the same of currant jelly, to a stiff froth. Put a pint of cream into a deep dish, and pile the froth on lightly. It should not stand Ions:. YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a dough with a tablespoon full of yeast, a little salt, and warm milk, and flour ; set it to rise. When light, flour your hands, and make it in balls the size of a common apple ; throw them into boiling water, and cover close. In half an hour take them up with a skimmer ; serve plain, with butter or with a sweet sauce. LEMON DUMPLINGS. The juice of a lemon and the rind, chopped very fine, two eggs, a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of bread, grated. To be boiled twenty minutes, in a cloth. LIGHT DOUGH DUMPLINGS. Take a pound of dough ; make it into small balls, the size of eggs ; boil in plenty of water, and use if for roast or boiled meats, or serve with butter and sugar, or with gravy. TARTLETS. Cut your paste after rolling it thin with a fluted cutter as large as your tartlet pan may be round ; place each piece even into the pan ; press it down with your finger ; then put into each, either a piece of square crust of bread cut into dice 182 PRACTICAL COOKERr. in the middle of each, or a very little piece of jam ; you will have to add more after they are baked ; sift some fine sugar over them ; bake them a light color. APPLE TART. Use good tart apples. Peel, slice and stew them with a tea- cup each of water and sugar to a quart of sliced apples ; add half a nutmeg grated, a saltspoon full of salt, and a little grated lemon peel, or lemon extract, or half a teaspoon full of ground cinnamon ; set them to become cold ; line small pie plates with rich pie or light puff paste; put in the stewed apples half an inch deep ; roll out some of the paste ; wet it over slightly with the yolk of an egg, beaten with a little milk, and a tea- spoon full of sugar ; cut in strips the width of a finger, and lay it in bars or diamonds across the tart ; lay another strip around the edge, trim ofF the outside neatly with a sharp knife, and bake it in a quick oven until the paste loosens from the dish. Tarts may be made of other fruits and sweatmeats in a sim- ilar manner. Pare and core six or eight good tart apples, so as to leave them whole, and place them in a pudding dish. Take a quart of milk, nine eggs, and sufficient flour to make a thin batter ; pour it on and cover the apples; bake it in an oven till it is done, and eat with butter and sugar or sauce. APPLE TART ANOTHER. Take some good baking apples, pare, core, and cut them into small pieces; place them in a dish lined with puff paste; strew over pounded sugar, cinnamon, mace,«iutmeg, cloves, and lemon peel chopped small ; then add a layer of apples, then spice, and so on till the dish is full ; pour a glass and a half PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 183 of white wine over the whole ; cover with puff paste, and bake it. When done, raise the crust, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, and two eggs well beaten ; replace the crust, and serve either hot or cold. APRICOT TART. ' Take some apricots,, cut them in two and break the stones ; put them into paste with sugar, a small quantity of preserved lemon, and a few of the kernels; close it, sprinkle sugar over and glaze it. If the apricots are not ripe, boil them a short time in water, and drain them well. APRICOT SWEETMEAT FOR TARTS. Take a pound of ripe apricots, remove the stones, break them and blanch the kernels ; add one pound and a half of green gages, and one pound and a quarter of lump sugar ; sim- mer it until ihe fruit becomes a jam. It must not boil, and must be kept well skimmed ; clarified sugar will be found the best to use for this preserve. CHERRY TART. Line the sides of a dish with good crust ; strew in sugar ; fill it with picked cherries, and put sugar at the top ; red cur- rants may be added, if liked ; cover with crust, and bake. CURRANT TART. Line a dish with puff-paste ; strew powdered sugar over the bottom of it ; then put in alternate layers of currants care- fully picked, and sugar, till the dish is full ; then cover and bake it. The addition of raspberries or mulberries to currant tart is a great improvement. 184 PRACTICAL COOKERY. DAMSON TART. Line a dish with a good crust ; put in the fruit, and proceed the same as for any other fruit pie. GRAPE TART. Take the youngest grapes before stones are formed ; pick and scald them the same as currants, or gooseberries, and fin- ish the same as other tarts. More sugar will be required than usual, on account of the extreme tartness of the fruit. GOOSEBERRY (GREEN) TART. Use either whole gooseberries, or make a marmalade of them with a good syrup ; the last method is perhaps the best, as you can tell easily how sweet they are and ought to be ; if made of marmalade, the seeds ought to be taken out. PEAR TART. Peel some pears carefully ; cut them into quarters and re- move the cores ; if large and green, boil them soft in a little water, simmering them in some rich syrup, and place them with the syrup in a dish lined with puff paste ; cover and bake it. QUINCE TART. Take a few preserved quinces, put an equal weight of syrup, made with sugar and water and preserve, into a preserving pan ; boil, skim, and then put in the fruit ; when somewhat clear, place the quinces in a tart dish, with puff paste, as usual. Cover, bake it, and when done, lift the top gently, put in the syrup, and serve. RASPBERRY TART. Line a dish with nice puff paste ; put in fruit and sugar ; lay bars across, and bake. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 185 RASPBERRY TART WITH CREAM. •Put some raspberries in a patty pan lined with thin puff paste ; strew in some finely sifted sugar ; cover with puff-paste and bake it ; when done, take off the top and pour in half a pint of cream, previously mixed with the yolks of two or three eggs, and sweetened with a little sugar ; then return the tart to the oven for five or six minutes. RHUBARB TART. Take some stalks of a good size, remove the thin skin, and cut them in pieces four or five inches long ; place them in a dish, and pour over a thin syrup of sugar and water ; cover with another dish, and simmer slowly for an hoar upon a hot hearth, or do them in a block tin saucepan. Allow it to cool, and then make it into a tart; when tender, the baking the crust will be sufficient. A tart may be made by cutting the stalks into pieces the size of gooseberries, and making it the same way as gooseberry tart. STRAWBERRY TART. Put into a basin two quarts of the best scarlet strawberries ; add half a pint of cold clarified sugar, the same quantity of Madeira, with the juice of two lemons ; mix all well without breaking the strawberries, and put them into a puff paste pre- viously baked ; keep them very cool. TARTLETS. Line several tartlet pans with a thin, short paste ; fill them with any preserve or sweetmeat you like ; then with paste shred very fine (moulds made for this purpose do them much neater and more quickly) cross them ; egg them ; place them in a baking tin, and bake them in a quick oven. 186 PRACTICAL COOKERY. YELLOW ALMOND SWEETMEATS. Blanch a pound of sweet almonds ; wash them in cold wa- ter, and when quite dry, pound them with a sufficient quantity of yolks of eggs into a fine but rather stiff paste ; add to them a pound of powdered sugar, and the rinds of two lemons gra- ted ; knead the paste well with your hands, first sprinkling the table with sugar. Form the paste into what figures you please, such as fleur-de-lis, trefoil, &c, &c, each being about the size and weight of a macaroon. Place them on a white paper and on an iron plate ; fry them in a moderately hot stove. If they are of a deep yellow they are sufficiently done. These sweetmeats may be still further ornamented in the following manner : Boil some sugar in orange flower wa- ter, and as soon as the sweetmeats are taken from the stove or oven, wash them over with a light brush, dipped in the syrup ; this will give them a delicious perfume ; when cold take them from the paper, and put them into glasses for the table. TO CUT OUT PATTY CASES, ETC. Roll your paste out about a quarter of an inch but first try a very thin bit in your oven, and you will find out the heat of the oven and the lightness of your paste ; and then cut the thickness accordingly. Have a plain or a fluted cutter, turn each piece of paste upon your papered baking sheet, take a smaller cutter and pass in the middle of the top of each, then egg each top with a paste brush ; nine will make a good dish. Roll out a piece of the paste, and with a cutter sufficiently large to cover the opening on the top, cut out the same num- ber for the tops, egg them, and bake them separately ; after your paste is baked, and before it is cold, with a small knife carefully put them in the screen until required. PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 187 " TO NEUTRALIZE THE ACID IN FRUIT PIES AND PUDDINGS. A large quantity of the free acid which exists in rhubarb, gooseberry, currants, and other fruits, may be judiciously cor- rected by the use of a small quantity of carbonate of soda, without the least affecting their flavor, so long as too much soda is not added. To an ordinary sized pie or pudding, as much soda may be added as, piled up, will cover a shilling, or even twice such a quantity if the fruit is very sour. If this little hint is attended to, many a stomach ache will be pre- vented, and a vast quantity of sugar saved, because, when the acid is neutralized by the soda, it will not require so much su- gar to render the tart sweet. OYSTER PATTIES. Line some small patty pans with a fine puff paste ; put a piece of bread into each, cover with paste and bake them. While they are baking, take some oysters and cut them into small pieces ; place them in a saucepan with a very small por- tion of grated nutmeg, a very little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel cut as small as possible, a little cream, and a little of the oyster liquor ; simmer it a few minutes, then remove the bread from the patties, and put in the mixture. MEAT PATTIES. The patty pans should not be too large ; make a puff paste, put a layer at the bottom of the tins ; put in forcemeat, and cover with puff paste ; bake them a light brown ; turn them out. If for a small dinner, five patties ; or seven for a large dinner will suffice for a side dish. MARROW PATTIES. Shred a few apples with some marrow ; add a little sugar ; make them up in puff paste ; fry them in clarified butter, and when done, sprinkle some sugar over them and serve. 188 PRACTICAL COOKERY. TURNOVERS. Cut into square pieces the thickness of a patty case ; put in the middle a small piece of jam ; double one side over the other, pressing it with your two thumbs, keeping the middle of a round lump ; egg the tops, bake them and glaze them. APRICOT PUFFS. Take some puff paste, roll it to about fifteen inches long, the eighth of. an inch in thickness, and six inches wide ; then place a small portion of apricot marmalade on the paste at equal distances, and two inches from the edge ; moisten round each bit of marmalade, and turn the two inches of paste over, press it down round the preserve so as to join the crusts, and then cut them out into semi-circular turnovers ; lay them on a tin, and bake them in a hot oven ; when almost done, sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze them. A MIXED JAM FOR TARTS OR TARTLETS. Take two pounds of apricots w T hen ripe ; take out the ker- nels and blanch them ; then add them to the fruit ; add to this two pounds of green gage plums, and two or three pounds of lump sugar ; then gently boil all until it is a clear jelly. Put it in small pots. CURD PUFFS. To the curd of two quarts of new milk well drained, add the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of two ; sugar, rosewater, nutmeg, and bread crumbs ; make it into a paste, cut into any shape you like ; fry them in boiling lard, and serve them with a sauce made with butter, sugar, and white wine. CHEESE PUFFS. Take half a pint of cheese curd strained very fine ; beat it in a mortar with three eggs, leaving out two whites ; a spoon PIES, PUDDINGS, ETC. 189 full and a half of flour, a spoon full of orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it rather sweet ; make the paste into very small round cakes, and bake them on a tin plate in a hot oven for fifteen minutes ; serve with pudding sauce. MERINGUES. Lay four eggs on ice for an hour ; weigh the weight of the eggs in fine sifted sugar ; then whip up the whites of those four eggs to a very stiff point ; when done, mix in gently the sugar ; . have ready a board an inch and a half thick, covered with white paper ; sugar the paper ; then with a silver spoon form the meringues the shape of an egg, but do not let them touch each other ; sift sugar well over them ; dry them in your hot closet, and when quite hard take them off the paper and scoop out the soft, and turn them over upon another pa- per; dry them again in the hot closet; fill them with jam or cream when you want them ; dish upon a napkin or cut paper. What you scoop out, will do to sweeten jelly, or glaze tarts. MERINGUES. Whisk the whites of nine eggs to a solid froth, then add the rind of six lemons grated very fine, and a spoon full of sifted sugar ; after which lay a sheet of wet paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the mixture in little lumps separately upon it ; sift sugar over, and put them to bake in a moderately heated oven, taking care that they are done of a nice color ; then put raspberry, apricot, or any other kind of jam between two of these bottoms ; add them together, and lay them in a warm place or before the fire to dry. CHAPTER XV. PANCAKES, FRITTERS, MUFFINS, AND WAFFLES. BUCKWIIEAT CAKES. Mix a quart of buckwheat flour with a pint of lukewarm milk ; some prefer water ; add a teacup of yeast, and set it in a warm place over night to rise. In the morning, if sour, add a teaspoon full of saleratus, and a little salt. Bake as griddles, and butter them hot. These are nice for breakfast, or with butter and sugar for tea. BUCKWHEAT CAKES. Take two pounds of buckwheat flour ; add a small saucer full of Indian meal, a little salt, and a teacup of yeast. Mix all together, with lukewarm water, to a thicker consistency than batter. Put it in a moderately warm place. When ready to bake, if not quite sweet, add a little saleratus, and bake on a griddle well heated. FLOUR TANCAKES. Take a pint of thick milk, or a quart of sour ; to the thick, add a pint of sweet milk, a little salt, a teaspoon full of salera- tus, and flour to make a batter. The thinner the batter, if baked well, the more tender they will be. Half a teacup of cream improves them. Butter while hot, and serve with sugar, honey, or maple molasses. For a common sauce, take a tea- cup of cream, a spoon full of sugar, and half a teaspoon of gin- ger. It is a delightful way of eating them. PANCAKES, FRITTERS, ETC. 191 CREAM PANCAKES. To a pint of cream add the yolks of two eggs, two ounces of sugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg ; mix the whole well, and then fry them very carefully. PANCAKES A LA FRANCAISE. Into a stewpan put four ounces of butter, a tablespoon full of ratafia, pounded, the rind of a lemon, cut thin, two ounces of pounded white sugar ; mix in separately three eggs ; then add, one at a time, the yolks of three more ; mix well ; add a little milk, half a pint of cream, and a little orange flower wa- ter ; beat it well up to the thickness of a good cream ; put into your pan some clarified butter, and when melted, pour it away, and put in your batter for the pancakes ; they must be made very thin. When you have finished frying the pancakes, leave in the bottom of your stewpan one tablespoon full of the batter ; add to it a little orange flower water, some sugar, a small quantity of pounded ratafia, and the yolk of an egg ; mix this with some cream ; put it into a boat, and serve as a sauce. INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES. To three pints of warm water add half a gill of yeast, half a teaspoon full of saleratus, dissolved, and a teaspoon full of salt ; stir in yellow corn-meal, to make a batter; add a pint bowl of wheat flour, and beat the whole smooth ; cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise. In the morning, add two eggs, well beaten, and bake on a griddle, to a nice brown. Serve on a hot dish, with butter and syrup for breakfast. APPLE FRITTERS. Make a stiff batter of half a pint of milk, two eggs, with flour ; slice six apples thin ; dip them in the batter, and then fry them in lard. / 192 PRACTICAL COOKERY. RICE PANCAKES. To half a pound of rice put two-thirds of a pint of water ; boil to a jelly ; when cold, add to it eight eggs, a pint of cream, a little salt, nutmeg, and half a pound of butter, melted ; mix well, adding the butter last, and working it only so much as will make the batter sufficiently thick. Fry them. EXCELLENT APPLE FRITTERS. Pare your apples, and cut in thin slices, and mix them with your flour ; stir in a quart of milk and four eggs, a little salt and saleratus, to make a thick batter. Fry in plenty of lard. Lemon or currants may be used, instead of apples. CREAM FRITTERS. Take a quart of sweet milk, and a teacup of cream, four eggs, beat to a froth, half a nutmeg, or grated lemon peel, and a teaspoon full of salt. Stir them with flour sufficient to make a thick batter ; dissolve a small teaspoon full of saleratus, and stir in ; then fry in lard. OYSTER FRITTERS. Strain some of their own liquor, and make a thin batter with two eggs, and some salt and flour ; stir the oysters in ; make some butter and lard hot, in a thick bottomed frying pan, and pour in the fritters ; let it fry to a nice brown on both sides. Or put it in the pan with a large spoon, allowing an oyster for each spoon full of batter ; the oysters for these last must be large ; the former may be small. PLAIN FRITTERS. To a quart of buttermilk, or sour milk, put a pint or more of sweet milk, three beaten eggs, a teaspoon full of salt, and a teaspoon of saleratus ; stir in flour enough to make a thick bat- ter. Have your lard hot, and drop them neatly by the spoon full into the lard, and fry them to a light brown. Serve them PANCAKES, FRITTERS, ETC. 193 with liquid pudding sauce, or sprinkle over them sugar and nutmeg, or serve plain. CORN OYSTERS. One pint of grated green corn, one cup of flour, one dessert- spoon full of salt, one teaspoon full of pepper, and one egg. Mix the ingredients together ; drop and fry them in hot lard, lu taste they resemble fried oysters. They are an excellent relish for breakfast, and a good side-dish for dinner. APPLE FRITTERS. Pare and core some fine, large pippins, and cut them into round slices. Soak them in wine, sugar, and nutmeg, for two or three hours. Make a batter of four eggs, a tablespoon full of rosewater, a tablespoon full of wine, a tablespoon full of milk ; thicken with enough flour, stirred in by degrees, to make a batter ; mix it two or three hours before it is wanted, that it may be light. Heat some butter in a frying pan ; dip each slice of apple separately into the batter, and fry them brown; sift pounded sugar, and grate nutmeg over them. FRITTERS, AU BLANC. Mix a hand full of rice flour with milk ; set it on the fire ; stir constantly, adding a little cream, sugar, and lemon peel ; when thickened, remove it from the fire ; when cold, roll it in balls the size of a walnut ; dip them in batter, and fry them. ORANGE FRITTERS. Take some oranges ; pare off the rind quite close ; cut them in quarters, and blanch them for a quarter of an hour ; then drain them ; take out the seeds ; put the oranges into a light syrup, and simmer till the syrup thickens ; remove them from the fire ; let them cool ; cover them with syrup ; dip each quarter into butter, and fry them to a nice color; sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve them. I • 13 194 PRACTICAL COOKERY. OYSTER FRITTERS. Blanch some of the largest oysters you can get, but do not let them boil ; strain the liquor, and season with cayenne pep- per, and a few drops of essence of anchovies ; make this liquor into a good thick batter, using a little cream ; have your stew- pan, with lard, quite hot; then dip them separately into the bat- ter, and fry them ; use silver skewers for them ; if not, dish on a napkin and fried parsley. MUFFINS. Mix a quart of wheat flour smoothly with a pint and a half of lukewarm milk, half a teacup of yeast, a couple of "beaten eggs, a teaspoon full of salt, and a couple of tablespoons full of lukewarm, melted butter. Set the batter in a warm place to rise. When light, butter your muffin cups, turn in the mix- ture, and bake the muffins to a light brown. INDIAN MEAL MUFFINS. To a quart of meal pour boiling water, stirring constantly, until a thick batter ; let it cool ; while warm, add a small tea- cup of butter, a teaspoon full of salt, and a tablespoon full of yeast, with two well beaten eggs ; set it in a warm place for two hours ; then stir it smooth, and bake in small cakes, on a griddle ; when one side is a rich brown, turn the other ; lay them singly on a hot dish, and serve. These may be made without the yeast, and baked as soon as mixed. FLOUR WAFFLES, RAISED. Take warm milk, and stir in sufficient flour to make a thick batter. The milk should be stirred in gradually, so as to have it free from lumps. Add a tablespoon full of melted butter, a couple of beaten eggs, a teaspoon full of salt, and half a tea- cup of yeast. When risen, fill your waffle-irons with the bat- ter ; bake them on a hot bed of coals. After they have been PANCAKES, FRITTERS, ETC. 195 on the fire 'two or three minutes, turn the waffle-irons over ; when brown on both sides, they are sufficiently baked. The waffle-irons should be well greased with lard, and very hot, before each one is put in. The waffles should be buttered as soon as cooked. Serve them up with powdered white sugar and cinnamon. QUICK WAFFLES. Mix flour and cold milk together, to make a thick batter ; to a quart of the flour put six beaten eggs, a tablespoon full of melted butter, and a teaspoon full of salt. Some cooks add a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a nutmeg. Bake them immediately. RICE WAFFLES. Mix a teacup and a half of boiled rice with a pint of milk ; after warming it, stir in a pint of cold milk, and a teaspoon full of salt. Stir in four eggs, well beaten, and sufficient flour to make a thick batter. Bake in waffle-irons, as before. CHAPTER XVI. EGGS AND OMELETS. For making omelets, or frying eggs, it is best to have an omelet pan, which is thick bottomed, and about six inches in diameter; this is the best also for pancakes, fritters, or for frying oysters. For turning omelets, fried oysters, fried pars- ley, . One pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, one glass of wine, one glass of rosewater, five eggs, mace and nutmeg. Butter your waffle irons, drop the cake in with a spoon, and shut quickly ; bake on both sides, CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 291 pare the edges before opening the irons, and roll them while hot on a fork ; they will cool crisp. WAFERT. Take fine flour dried and sifted, make it into a smooth, thin batter with very good milk or a little cream and water; ad J about as much white wine as will make it thick enough for pan- cakes ; sweeten it with a little loaf sugar. When thus pre- pared, have the wafer irons made ready, by being heated over a charcoal fire, rub the irons with a piece of linen cloth dipped in butter, then pour a spoon full of the batter upon them and close them almost immediately ; turn them upon the fire ; pare the edges with a knife, as some of the batter will ooze out. A short time will bake them. When the irons are properly heated the wafers must be curled round while warm. BATAFIAS. Blanch half a pound of bitter almonds and half a pound of sweet ; take ofF the skins the day before, pound them together very fine, add two pounds of very fine sugar to them, and about eight whites of eggs, beat it well for a quarter of an hour in your mortar, take it out and squeeze it through a bladder and a pipe ; squeeze them the size of a six-pence upon kitchen pa- per ; bake them in a moderate oven, a light brown color ; let them get cold before you take them off the paper. BUNS. Three pounds of flour, half a pound of butter put into the warm milk, half a pound of moist sugar made fine, two ounces of yeast dissolved in a cup of cold water ; add to it a pint and a half of new milk and the butter made warm ; make a hole in your flour, which should be in a pan, and then pour in the milk, butter, and yeast ; keep it in until of a thick batter, cover it over and stand it where warm ; do not let it work too much ; then 292 PRACTICAL COOKERY. mix it into a dough quite smooth, stand it again where warm, and when it has risen work up and form your buns. Grease your baking sheets, then put them where warm to prove ; you must be sure to have the oven ready for them ; when baked have ready a little milk and sugar, mixed, which you will brush quick- ly over the buns. BATH BUN'S. Rub with the hand one pound of fine flour and half a pound of butter ; beat six eggs and add them to the flour with a table- spoon full of good yeast ; mix them together with half a tea- cup full of milk ; set it on a warm place for an hour ; mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, and a few caraway seeds, mould them into buns with a tablespoon on a baking plate, throw six or eight caraway comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. These quantities should make eighteen buns. BUNS, COMMON. Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, a little salt, four ounces of sugar, a dessertspoon full of caraways, and a teaspoon full of ginger ; put some warm' milk or cream to four tablespoons full of yeast, mix all together into a paste, but not too stiff, cover it over and set it before the fire an hour to rise, then make it into buns; put them on a tin, set them before the fire for a quarter of an hour, cover over with flannel, then brush them with very w T arm milk, and bake them of a nice brown in a moderate oven. BUNS, PLUM. Take two pounds of plain bun paste, add half a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of candied orange peel cut into small pieces, half a nutmeg grated, and half an ounce of mixed spice. Form them into buns, dent them round the edges with n knife, and proceed as above. CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 293 SEED BUNS. Mix one ounce of caraway seeds in two pounds of plain bun dough; form it into buns; butter the insides of tart-pans, and put one into each pan, place them near the fire to rise, and when this is done ice them with the white of an egg beaten to a froth ; sprinkle powdered sugar over that, dissolving it with water splashed from a brush. Bake it ten minutes. BUSK. Seven pounds of flour, seven eggs, three pints of milk, two and a half pounds of sugar, one and a half pounds of butter, one pint of yeast, nutmeg or cinnamon ; rub the flour, sugar, and butter together, then add the rest, and put it to rise over night. ANOTHER BUSK. Five pounds of flour, one and a half pounds of sugar, one pound of butter, five eggs, one pint of yeast, one ounce of spice, one quart of new milk ; mix the flour, milk and yeast together over night ; add the rest in the morning and let it rise again ; put it in the pans, and set it to the fire till the oven is ready, gloss the tops with whites of eggs and milk. BREAD, BISCUIT, YEAST, ETC. WHEAT BREAD. For four common sized loaves of bread, mix two pints of boiling water, and four quarts of flour. When thoroughly mixed, add two pints of cold water. Stir till the whole of the dough is of the same temperature. When lukewarm, stir in a cup of family yeast, (if brewer's yeast, a less quantity,) two or three teaspoons full of salt, knead in flour till stiff enough to mould up, and free from lumps. The more the bread is kneaded, the better it will be. Cover it over with a thick cloth, and if the weather is cold, set it near a fire. To ascertain when it has risen, cut it through the middle with a knife ; if full of small 294 PRACTICAL COOKERY. holes like a sponge, it is sufficiently light for baking. Bake as soon as light. If your bread should get sour before you are ready to bake it, dissolve one or more teaspoons full of salera- tus (according to the acidity of it) in half a teacup of milk or water, strain it on to the dough ; work it in well ; then cut off enough for a loaf of bread ; mould it up well ; slash it on both sides, to prevent its cracking when baked ; put it in a buttered tin pan. The bread should stand a few minutes in the pans be- fore baking it ; let it stand in the oven an hour to an hour and a half, if a brick oven. When the wheat is grown, it makes better bread to wet the flour entirely with boiling water. It should remain till cool before working in the yeast. Some cooks have an idea that it kills the life of the flour to scald it, but it is a mistaken idea — it is sweeter for it, and will keep good much longer. Bread made in this way is nearly as good as that which is wet with milk. Care must be taken not to put the yeast in when the dough is hot, as it will scald it, and prevents it rising. Most brick ovens require heating an hour and a half for bread. A brisk fire should be kept up, and the doors of the room should be kept shut, if the weather is cold. To ascertain if your oven is of the right temperature, when cleaned, throw in a little flour; if it browns in the course of a minute, it is sufficiently hot; if it turns black directly, wait several minutes before putting in the things that are to be baked. If the oven does not bake well, set in a furnace of live coals. EXCELLENT BliEAD. Two quarts of boiled milk ; when lukewarm, add a piece of butter the size of half an egg, some salt and an egg. Stir in flour enough to make a stiff batter, then a gill of good yeast; (if your yeast is not lively, stir in a little saleratus.) add flour gradually, till it is a stiff dough. Knead it a great deal, and CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 295 set it to rise. When well raised, work it over, and let it rise again, then bake immediately. BOSTON BROWN BREAD. A person once accustomed to this bread will never wil- lingly live without it. To make it, take one quart of rye meal, two quarts of Indian meal — if not fresh, scald it — half a teacup full of molasses, two teaspoons full of salt, one teaspoon full of saleratus, one teacup full of home brewed yeast, or half the quantity of distillery yeast ; make it as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon, with warm water, and let it rise from night till morning. Then put it into a large, deep pan, smooth the top with the hand, dipped in cold water, let it stand a few minutes, and then bake it in an oven five or six hours. If put in late in the day, it may remain in the oven over night. PREMIUM BREAD. The Rhode Island Society for the promotion of Industry, gave the first premium on domestic bread to Mrs. Hiram Hill, of Providence. The following is Mrs. Hill's recipe for making the bread exhibited by her : For two loaves of the ordinary size, take two potatoes, pare them, slice very thin, and boil quick until quite soft ; then mash it to a fiue pulp, and add, little by little, two quarts of boiling water, stirring until a starch is formed ; let this cool, and then add one-third of a cup of yeast. This forms the " sponge," which should remain in a moderately warm place for ten or twelve hours, or over night, until it becomes very light and frothy ; even if a little sour, it is of no consequence. When the " sponge " is ready, add flour, and work it in until you have formed a stiff, firm mass. The longer and more firmly this is kneaded, the better the bread. Let the kneaded mass remain say from half to three- quarters of an hour to rise, then divide into pans, where it should remain, say fifteen minutes ; care being taken that it 296 PRACTICAL COOKERY. does not rise too much and crack: then put the loaves into a quick oven, and bake, say three-quarters of an hour. If the oven is not hot enough, the bread will rise and crack ; if too hot, the surface will harden too rapidly, and confine the loaf." 1 BROWN GRAHAM BREAD. One quart superfine flour, one quart unbolted flour, and one pint Indian meal, sifted and scalded. Add a little molasses, if preferred. Mix as wheat, using yeast, salt, &c. Bake when light. RICH CORN BREAD. Take one egg, well beaten; half a pint of thick cream; In- dian meal sufficient to form a thick batter ; a small quantity of salt ; add half a teaspoon full of saleratus dissolved in a small quantity of water ; after mixing thoroughly, put it into the pans or oven, and bake immediately. BOSTON RYE-AND-INDIAN BREAD. One quart of Indian meal, three pints of rye meal, one teacup of molasses, one of yeast. Salt ; mix all well with warm water ; smooth it over the top by dipping the hand in water. Let it stand to rise ; when it cracks, it is ready to bake. Iron pans are the best to bake it in. It requires a great deal of baking ; about four hours for a loaf of this size. SAGO BREAD. With two pounds of sago, well soaked in water or milk some hours, mix the same quantity of wheat flour. If pre- ferred, a little Indian meal, also. Saleratus and yeast to be used as with other kinds of bread. When well raised, it should have a good, quick bake. It is delicious, healthy and cheap. For invalids it is particularly good. CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 297 DIET BREAD, WHICH KEEPS MOIST. Three quarters of a pound of lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water ; half a pound of the best flour, seven eggs, taking away the whites of two ; mix the liquid su- gar when it has boiled, with the eggs ; beat them up together m a basin with a whisk ; then add, by degrees, the flour, beat- ing all together for about ten minutes ; put it into a quick oven. An hour bakes it. Tin moulds are the best ; the dimensions for this quantity are six inches in length and four in depth. POTATO BREAD. Boil a quantity of potatoes ; drain them well, strew over them a small quantity of salt, and let them remain in the ves- sel in which they were boiled, closely covered, for an hour, which makes them mealy ; then peel and pound them as smooth as flour. Add four pounds of potatoes to six of wheat flour, and make it into dough with yeast, in the way that bread is generally made. Let it stand three hours, to rise. RICE BREAD. Boil half a pound of rice in three pints of water, till the whole becomes thick and pulpy. With this, and yeast, and six pounds of flour, make your dough. In this way, it is said, as much bread will be made, as if eight pounds of flour, with- out the rice, had been used. RYE BREAD. Take two quarts of wheat flour, two pounds of rye flour, a little salt, a fourth of a pint of good yeast, and as much warm water as will make it into stiff dough. Let it stand three hours to rise before you put it into the oven. A large loaf will take three hours to bake. M* 298 PRACTICAL COOKERY. . BUTTERED LOAVES. Take three quarts of new milk ; put in as much rennet as will turn it ; whey the curds very clean ; break them small with your hands ; put in nine yolks of eggs and one white ; a hand full of grated bread, half a hand full of flour, and a little salt. Mix these together, working it well with your hands; roll it into small loaves, and bake them in a quick oven three- quarters of an hour. Then take half a pound of butter, four spoons full of clear water, half a nutmeg sliced very thin, and a little sugar. Set it on a quick fire, stirring it quickly, and let it boil till thick. When the loaves are baked, cut out the top and stir up the crumb with a knife ; then pour some of the but- ter into each of them, and cover them up again. Strew a lit- tle sugar on them ; before you set them in the oven, beat the yolk of an egg and a little beer together, and with a feather smear them over with it. FRENCH ROLLS. To two quarts of the best flour, put three eggs, leaving out one white ; a little salt, a half pint of good yeast, and as much new milk, a little warmed, as will make it a thin, light paste. Stir it about with your hand, or with a large wooden spoon, but by no means knead it. Set it in a pan before the fire for about an hour, or till it rises ; then make it up into little rolls, and bake it in a quick oven. BUTTER BISCUITS. Half a pound of butter, two pounds of flour sifted, half a pint of milk, or cold water, a teaspoon full of salt ; cut up the butter in the flour, and put the salt to it ; wet it to a stiff dough with the milk and water ; mix it well with a knife, throw some flour on the paste-board, take the dough out of the pan, and knead it very well. Roll it out into a large, thick sheet, and beat it very hard on both sides with the rolling-pin ; beat it a CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 299 long time, cut it out with a tin or cup into small, round, thick cakes. Beat each cake on both sides with a rolling pin, prick them with a fork, put them in buttered pans, and bake them of a light brown in a slow oven. SODA BISCUITS. Take one quart of flour, two teaspoons full cream of tar- tar, one teaspoon full of salt, one of saleratus or soda, and a small piece of butter for shortening. Mix with water or milk. ANOTHER. One pound of flour, two teaspoons full of cream of tartar, one teaspoon full of soda. Put the cream of tartar into the flour dry ; dissolve the soda in a little milk ; wet the whole with milk, making it sufficiently stiff to mould into biscuits. POTATO BISCUITS, Boil mealy potatoes very soft, peel and mash them. To four good sized potatoes, put a piece of butter of the size of a hen's egg, a teaspoon full of salt. When the butter has melted, put in half a pint of cold milk. If the milk cools the pota- toes, put in a quarter of a pint of yeast, and flour to make them of Hie right consistency to mould up. Set them in a warm place — when risen, mould them up with the hand — let them remain ten or fifteen minutes before baking them. BAKER'S ROLLS. Two pounds of wheat flour, a large tablespoon full of yeast, a teaspoon full of salt, and a bit of saleratus the size of half a small nutmeg, dissolved in a tablespoon full of hot water; make it into a soft dough with warm milk, work it or knead until it is smooth and shining, then cover it and set it in a. warm place for two hours. Work it smooth again — let it rise a g a j n — then work it down and divide it in pieces twice the size 300 PRACTICAL COOKERY. of a hen's egg ; roll it between your hands to the length of a finger ; lay them so as to touch each other on baking tins ; dip your hand in milk and pass it lightly over the tops of the rolls, and set them in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty min- utes, until they are baked, and the tops a delicate brown — break open one to know if they are done. Serve for break- fast; to be broken open — cutting light hot cakes soddens them. TEA RUSK. A pint of warm milk, a little baker's yeast, salt, and half a teaspoon full of saleratus ; put to it enough wheat flour to make a soft dough ; mix it well and smooth ; cover it, and set it in a warm place ; when light, add half a teacup of sugar and a cup of melted butter ; work them well into the dough ; flour your hands well, and make it in small cakes ; lay them close together in a buttered pan ; dip a feather in a little sweet- ened milk, and pass it lightly over the tops of the rusks ; set them in a quick oven for half an hour ; serve hot. SALLY LLNN. Take two and a half pounds of flour, five eggs, three-quar- ters of a pound butter, melted without oiling ; one and a half pints milk mixed with the melted butter ; a little mace, a ta- blespoon full of rosewater, and one gill of yeast. The Sally Lunn should be put into the moulds or pans when it has been made about an hour, and left to rise. Bake as a pound cake ; serve hot with tea. YEAST. Boil well a hand full of hops in a couple of quarts of water. Strain the liquor, and put it back on the fire ; with a little of the liquor, mix smoothly three heaping tablespoons full of wheat flour, and stir it into the liquor when it boils. Let it lloil five or six minutes. When lukewarm, stir in a teacup of yeast, and keep it in a warm place till risen. When of a \ CAKES, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 301 frothy appearance, it is sufficiently light. Add a tablespoon full of salt ; turn it into a jar, and cover it tightly. When- ever your yeast gets sour, the jar should be thoroughly cleaned before fresh is put in. Yeast made in this manner will keep good a fortnight in warm weather ; in cold weather longer. If your yeast appears to be a little changed, add a little salera- tus to it before you mix it with your bread. If it does not foam well when put in, it is too stale to use. Milk Yeast (or emptyings) is made by mixing half the quantity of milk you need for your biscuit, with a teaspoon full of salt and a little flour, and setting it in a warm place. When light, mix it with the rest of the milk, and use it di- rectly for the biscuit. It takes a pint of this yeast for five or six loaves of bread. It is nice for biscuit, but is not generally liked for bread. Some persons prefer to save a small quantity of dough from each baking, by drying it or otherwise, for the next baking. Potato Yeast is made thus : Boil a couple of potatoes ; mash them very fine, removing all the lumps ; add a couple of tablepoons full of wheat flour, and a quart of hot hop tea ; when lukewarm, stir in half a teacup of yeast ; when light, put in a couple of teaspoons full of salt ; put it in your yeast-jar and cover it up tight. YEAST. Three quarts of water ; allow it to come to a boiling point ; put in two hands full of hops tied in a bag ; boil it half an hour; take out the hops, stir in two quarts of grated raw po- tatoes ; a teacup two-thirds full of molasses ; a teaspoon full of salt ; let it boil ten minutes longer. When about blood warm, add a small bowl full of yeast ; stir it well ; after it rises, stir it thoroughly once more. Bottle it the next day ; lay the corks over the tops of the bottles ; cork it tight the day after, 302 PRACTICAL COOKERY. -* and keep it in a cool place. When a bottle is empty, wash and scald it thoroughly ; it is well to rinse it with saleratus water to prevent any acidity. YEAST CAKES. Make a thick batter of a pint of good yeast, a teaspoon full of salt, and rye or wheat flour. When risen, stir in Indian meal till of the right consistency to roll out. When risen again, roll them out very thin, cut them into cakes with a tumbler, and dry them in the shade in clear, windy weather. Care must be taken to keep them from the sun, or they will fer- ment. When perfectly dry, tie them up in a bag, and keep them in a cool, dry place. To raise four or five loaves of bread, take one of these cakes and put to it a little lukewarm milk or water. W T hen dissolved, stir in a couple of tablespoons full of flour ; set it near the fire. When light, use it for your dough. Yeast cakes will keep good five or six months. They are very convenient to use in summer, as common yeast is so apt to ferment. CHAPTER XXII. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, COCOA. Coffee and tea have now become such universal beverages for the morning or after dinner meal, that beyond a few gen- eral directions, little remains for prefatory matter. Coffee should be purchased in the berry, and fresh roasted ; it should always, when possible, be ground just previous to be- ing made. After it is ground, it should not be exposed to the air, as the aroma speedily flies off. If more is ground than required for the meal, keep it in a glass bottle closely stopped, or a tight tin canister. Coffee, like tea, should be an infusion, not a decoction. The best coffee is the Mocha, the next is the Java, and closely approximating is the Jamaica and Berbice. Of tea, little need be said ; almost every one knows the rules for making it. Boiling water should alone be used. Earthen tea pots in preference to metal. Silver is better than either. Chocolate can only be obtained pure of a first-rate house ; that commonly sold, is most infamously adulterated* Cocoa is the foundation of chocolate ; it may be pounded, and either boiled as milk, or boiling water may be poured upon it. It is very digestible, and of a fattening nature. COFFEE AND TEA. COFFEE. To make good common coffee, allow a tablespoon full of it, when properly roasted and ground, to each pint of water. 304 PRACTICAL COOKERY. Turn on the water boiling hot, and boil the coffee m a tin pot from twenty to twenty-five minutes — if boiled longer, it will not taste fresh and lively. Let it stand, after being taken from the fire, four or five minutes to settle ; then turn it off care- fully from the grounds, into a coffee pot or urn. When the coffee is put on the fire to boil, a piece of fish skin, (prepared and dried for that purpose,) or isinglass of the size of a shil- ling, should be put in, or the white and shell of half an egg, to a couple of quarts of coffee. When cream cannot be procured for coffee, the coffee will be much richer to boil it with a less proportion of water than the above rule, and weaken it with boiling hot milk, when served out in cups. Another way for making coffee is, to put the ground coffee into a wide-mouthed bottle over night, aaid pour rather more than half a pint of water upon each ounce and a half, and to cork the bottle ; in the morning to loosen the cork, put the bot- tle into a pan of hot water, and bring the water to a boiling heat. The coffee is then to be poured off clear, and the latter portion strained ; that which is not drank immediately is kept closely stopped, and is heated as it is wanted. A SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM FOR COFFEE. Beat up a fresh egg, then pour boiling water on it gradually to prevent its curdling. It is difficult to distinguish it from rich cream. COFFEE, TO ROAST. Coffee should never be roasted but when you are going to use it, and then it should be watched with the greatest care, and made of a gold color ; mind and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt would communicate a bitter taste to the whole ; it is the best way to roast it in a roaster which turns with the hand, over a charcoal fire, as by that means it will not be for- COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, COCOA. 305 gotten, wnicn is very often the case when in the oven, or be- fore the fire. COFFEE MILK. Boil a dessertspoon full of a coffee in nearly a pint of milk a quarter of an hour, then put in a little isinglass and clear it, and let it boil a few minutes, and set it on the fire to grow fine. COFFEE CREAM. Mix three cups of good coffee with one pint of cream, and sugar according to taste ; boil them together, and reduce them about one-third ; observe that the coffee must be done as if it was for drinking alone, and settle very clear before you mix it with the cream. COFEE ATJ CREME. Put two spoons full of coffee with some sugar into three pints of cold cream ; boil it up for half an hour ; let it stand ; beat up the yolks of eight eggs, strain them through a sieve, and mix the whole together ; put the vessel into boiling water to simmer over a slow fire, keeping it constantly stirred. COFFEE TO GIVE THE FLAVOR OF VANILLA. Take a hand full of oats, very clean, and let them boil for five or six minutes in soft water ; throw this away, and fill it up with an equal quantity, and let it boil for half an hour ; then pass this decoction through a silk sieve, and use it to make your coffee, which will acquire, by this means, the flavor of vanilla, and is very nice. COFFEE ICE A l'iTALIENNE. Infuse a quarter of a pound of coffee in a pint of double cream, boiling hot, for two hours, closely covered ; half whip 306 PRACTICAL COOKERY. the whites of nine eggs, and having strained the cream from the coffee, mix it with them ; add half a pound of powdered sugar, and put it over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, then ice it. COFFEE FROTHED OK WHIPPED. Take a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, make a very strong infusion with it, and pass this through a straining bag ; having dissolved three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar in a pint of double cream, and the yolks of six eggs, put in the coffee, of which there should be no more than three cups, and whipped as directed in froth cream. COFFEE JELLY. Roast a quarter of a pound over a moderate fire, to a fine yel- low ; take it from the fire, set aside the eighth part of it, and throw the rest into three glasses of nearly boiling water ; cover it close, and let it cool. In the meantime, boil half a glass of water and pour it over the small portion of coffee, which should be ground ; add a little isinglass ; when perfectly clear, pour it to the other mixture. Having strained it through a silk sieve, filter the whole, and mix it with three-quarters of a pound of clarified sugar, and an ounce of isinglass, and half a glass of kirschwasser. Finish with ice. CHOCOLATE. According as you intend to make this, either with milk or water, for each cup of one or the other of these liquids put into a chocolate pot, add one ounce of cake chocolate. Some per- sons dissolve the chocolate before they put it into the milk ; let it boil slowly or just simmer for half an hour; add cream or milk to it, and sugar to taste ; or the sugar may be omit- ted until served. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, COCOA. 307 CHOCOLATE DROPS. Take one pound and a half of chocolate, put it on a pewter plate, and put it into the oven, just to warm the chocolate ; then put it into a copper stewpan, with three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar ; mix it well over the fire ; take it off, and roll it in pieces the size of small marbles ; put them on white paper, and when they are all on, take the sheet of paper by each corner and lift it up and down, so that the pa- per may touch the table each time, and by that means you will see the drops come quite fat, about the size of a sixpence. Put some sugar nonpareils over them, and cover all that are on the paper ; then shake them off, and you will see all the chocolate drops are covered with the sugar nonpareils ; let them stand till cold, and they will come off well, and then put them in a box, prepared. CHOCOLATE BON-BONS. Put a quarter of a pound of chocolate over a fire to dis- solve ; and having boiled two pounds of sugar, put a spoon or two full into the chocolate ; stir it well till it forms a thin paste, and then pour it on the sugar, and boil it again ; in the meantime, melt a little butter, skim and pour it off clear into a basin ; rub a spoon fall of it with your hand over a marble slab or table ; on this pour the chocolate and sugar ; then mark the sugar in squares all over, as quickly as possible, be- fore it cools. Loosen the sugar from the marble with a knife blade, and pass under it sheets of paper ; when cold, break into pieces, according to marks, and wrap each in a bit of paper. TEA. Scald the teapot, and if the tea is a strong kind, a teaspoou full for a pint of water is sufficient ; if it is a weak kind, more will be required. Pour on just enough boiling water to cover the tea, and let it steep. Green tea should not steep more 308 PRACTICAL COOKERY. than five or six minutes before drinking; if steeped longer, it will not be lively. Black tea requires steeping ten or twelve minutes to extract the strength. TEA CREAM. Boil two drachms or more of good green tea in a quart of milk ; in a few minutes strain it ; add three yolks of eggs, well beaten, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar ; set it on the fire, and reduce it to half, then strain it again ; when cold, serve it. TEA ICE. Take two drachms of the best tea ; tie it in a bit of muslin, and boil it in two quarts of cream ; when the infusion is suffi- ciently strong, take out the muslin, squeeze it well, and mix the cream with the eggs and sugar. CHAPTER XXIII. HOME MADE WINES. OW that fruit and su- gar are both so cheap, all housewives may add wines to their household stores as easily as they may preserves. The diffi- culty and" expense of making is trifling, com- pared with w r hat the latter used to be. Next to the fruit, sugar is the most important ingredient. In wine countries, the grape, under the influence of cli- mate, contains within itself the chemical properties to produce fer- mentation, while with us artificial aid is compelled to be ased to ac- complish it. The four requisites for fermentation are sugar, vege- table extract, malic acid, and water; and upon the proper regulation of these constituents the suc- cess depends. The fermentation requires great attention, and should neither be suffered to continue too long, nor be checked too early. Its ;310 PRACTICAL COOKERY. commencement, which will be about a day after the articles have been mixed, will attract attention by the noise it mat For a sweet wine, the cask should not be closed until the sound of fermentation has almost ceased. If a dry wine, have ready a barrel which has been subjected to the fumes of sul- phur, and draw off your wine into it. Rack off the wine, clear- ing it with isinglass, and bottle it in about ten weeks after. APPLE WINE. Add to a barrel of cider the herb scurlea, the quintessence of wine, a little nitre, and a pound of syrup of honey. Let it work in the cask till clear and well settled ; then draw it off, and it will be little inferior to Rhenish, either in clearness, color, or flavor. APRICOT WINE. Pare and stone some ripe apricots ; bruise, and put them to six quarts of water and one of white wine; simmer gently for some time ; when the fruit is soft, pour the liquid to the apri- cots, prepared as the others. Let it stand twelve hours, stir- ring it often ; pour off the liquid, and press the remains through a fine bag, and put them together in a cask to ferment • put a pound of sugar to each gallon. Boil an ounce of mace and half an ounce of nutmeg in a quart of white wine, and while hot, pour it in the fermenting wine, and hang a bunch of fresh burrage in the cask for three days ; draw it off, and keep in bottles. BALM WINE. Boil twenty pounds oHump sugar in four gallons and a half of water gently for four hours, and put it in a tub to cool ; bruise two pounds of the tops of green balm, and put them into a barrel, with a little new yeast; and when the syrup is nearly cold, pour it on the balm ; stir it well together, and let it stand four-and-twenty hours, stirring frequently; bring it HOME MADE WINES. 311 up, and when it has stood for six weeks, bottle it ; put a lump of sugar into each bottle ; cork tight. BIRCH WESTE. The season for procuring the liquor from the birch tree is in the beginning of March, while the sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out ; for when the sap is come forward and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and colored, which before was white and clear. The method of procuring juice is by boring holes in the body of the trees, and putting in fossets, which are made from the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You may, with- out hurting the tree, if large, tap it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that means save from a good many trees several gallons every day ; if you have not enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops must be corked close and rosined or waxed ; make use of it as soon as you can. Take the sap, and boil it as long as any scum rises, skimming it all the time. To every gallon of liquor put four pounds of good sugar, and the thin peel of a lemon; boil it afterward half an hour, skim- ming it very well ; pour it into a clean tub, and when it is al- most cold, set it to work with.yeast, spread upon a toast ; let it stand five or six days, stirring it often ; then take such a cask as will hold the liquor, fire a large match, dipped in brim- stone, and throw it into the cask ; stop it close until the match is extinguished ; tun your wine ; lay the bung on light till you find it has done working ; stop it close, and keep it three months ; then bottle it off. BLACKBERRY WTN"E. Put some ripe blackberries into a large vessel with a cock in it ; pour on as much boiling water as will cover them, and as soon as the heat will permit, bruise them well with the hand till all the berries are broken ; cover them, and in about 312 PRACTICAL COOKERY. three or four days, when the berries rise to the top, draw off the clear part into another vessel ; add to every ten quarts of the liquor one pound of sugar ; stir it well in, and let it stand a week or ten days to work. Draw it off through a jelly bag. Steep four ounces of isinglass in a pint of sweet wine for twelve hours ; then boil it slowly till dissolved ; put it in a gallon of the juice ; boil them together ; then put all together ; let it stand a few days, and bottle. CHERRY WINE. To make five pints of this wine, take fifteen pounds of cher- ries and two of currants ; bruise them together ; mix with them two-thirds of the kernels, and put the whole of the cher- ries, currants, and kernels into a barrel, with a quarter of a pound of sugar to every pint of juice. The barrel must be quite full ; cover the barrel with vine leaves, and sand above them, and let it stand until it has done working, which will be in about three weeks ; then stop it with a bung, and in two months' time it may be bottled. CLARY WINE. Boil six gallons of water, a dozen pounds of sugar, the juice of six lemons, and four well beaten whites of eggs for half an hour, skimming it carefully ; then pour this, while boiling hot, on a peck of fresh clary flowers, with the peels of the lemons used above, and stir it well ; add a thin dry toast, covered with yeast. When it has worked two or three days, add to it six ounces of syrup of lemons, and a quart of Rhenish wine. Squeeze the clary through a cloth ; strain the liquor through a flannel bag in a cask ; lay the bung on loosely, and if in the course of a few days it does not work, bung it quite close. The wine may be bottled in three months. HOME MADE WINES. 313 CURRANT WINE. Take sixteen pounds of currants, three gallons of water ; break the currants with your hands in the water; strain it off; put to it fourteen pounds of sugar ; strain it into a vessel ; add a pint of brandy, and a pint of raspberries ; stop it down, and let it stand three months. CURRANT WESTE RED OR WHITE. Take thirty pounds of either red or white currants, and an equal quantity of black currants, and small cherries not stoned, and leaving on the stalks; put the whole into a cask, and bruise them with a large stick ; then boil half a quarter of ju- niper berries in five or six pints of water, to which add half a pound of honey to make the juniper berries ferment ; when they have fermented, mix them with the juice of the fruits. Stir it together during four-and-twenty hours two or three times ; then fill up the cask with water, and close it. This quantity will make one hundred and fifty bottles of excellent wine ; if you wish to make it stronger, put in a pint or two of brandy. CDRRANT WLNE. To every pail full of currants, on the stem, put one pail full of water ; mash and strain. To each gallon of the mix- ture of juice and water add three and a quarter pounds of su- gar. Mix well, and put in your cask, which should be placed in the cellar, on the tilt, that it may be racked off in October, without stirring up the sediment. Two bushels of currants will make one barrel of wine. Four gallons of the mixture of juice and water will, after thirteen pounds of sugar are added, make five gallons of wine. The barrel should be filled within three inches of the bung, which must be made air tight, by placing w r et clay over it after it is driven in. N 314 PRACTICAL COOKERY. DAMSON WINE. Gather the damsons on a dry day, and bruise them. Put them into a stein with a cock in it, and to every eight pounds of fruit add one gallon of boiling water. In two days you may draw it off, and put it into a vessel, and to every c;dk>n of the liquor add two pounds and a half of sugar. Fill Dp, and stop it close. Keep it in a cool cellar for twelve months ; then bottle it, putting a lump of sugar in each bot- tle. Cork them well, and it will be fit for use in two months after. ELDER WINE. Pour a gallon of boiling water over qycvy gallon of berries ; let it stand twelve hours ; then draw it off, and boil it up with three pounds and a half of sugar; when boiling, beat up the whites of some eggs, and clarify it ; skim it clear; then add half an ounce of pounded ginger to every gallon of the wine ; boil it a little longer before you put it in the tub ; when cool, put in a toast rubbed in yeast; let it ferment a day or two. after which put it into a barrel previously rinsed with brandy. All wines should be lukewarm when the yeast is added to it. GINGER WINE. To every gallon of water add three pounds of sugar, and one pound of ginger, the paring of one lemon, half a pound of raisins, stoned; boil all half an hour; let it stand until it is lukewarm ; then put it into the cask, with the juice of a lemon : add one spoon full of yeast to every gallon ; stir it every day for ten days ; then add half a pint of brandy to every two gallons, half an ounce of isinglass to every six gallons ; stop it closedown, and in about eight weeks it will be fit to bottle. GOOSEBERRY WINE. Bruise the gooseberries with the hands in a tub ; to every six pounds of fruit add a quart of cold spring water, stirring HOME MADE WINES. 315 it thoroughly ; let it stand twenty hours ; then strain it ; dis- solve two pounds of sugar to every quart of water employed ; let it remain another day ; remove the scum very clearly, and pour it into the utensil or cask in whicB it is to remain, pre- vious to being bottled. The scum removed must be kept in flannel, and the drain ings caught in a vessel ; they must be added to the other liquor. Let it work about sixty hours, not more, and then cover down close. In four months it will be ready for bottling. GRAPE WINE. To one gallon of grapes put one gallon of water; bruise the grapes ; let them stand a week without stirring ; then draw it off, and fine. Put to a gallon of wine three pounds of sugar ; put it in a vessel, but it must not be stopped till it has done hissing. MOUNTAIN WINE. Take some Malaga raisins, press and chop them fine, and to ten pounds of raisins put two gallons of water ; let them steep three weeks, stirring it now and then during the time ; squeeze out the liquor and put it in a vessel that will just hold it, but be careful not to stop it until it has done hissing, then bung it up close. It will be fit for use in six months. PARSNIP WINE. Clean and quarter four pounds of parsnips, to which put one gallon of water ; boil them till tender, drain them through a sieve, but do not bruise them ; pour the liquor into a tub, and to each gallon add three pounds of lump sugar and half an ounce of crude tartar ; when cool put in the yeast, and let it stand four days in a warm room, then turn it. The mixture should be fermented in a temperature of sixty degrees. When fermentation has subsided, bung down the cask, and let it stand 316 PRACTICAL COOKERY. twelve months before bottling it. March and September are the best months for making it. It only requires to be kept a few years to make it superior to all other made wines, f RAISIN WIFE. One hundred of Smyrnas to twenty gallons of water (wine measure ;) boil half a pound of hops in the water for an hour, let it stand till cold, then pour it over the fruit ; let it remain three weeks, stirring it every day ; press it off and put it into the cask ; do not bung it down till the fermentation has ceased ; when it has stood about a year draw it off clear, put it in the barrel again, and let it stand to settle before it is bottled ; be- fore it is bunged down close, put a quart of brandy to a hogs- head of wine ; what is thick should be run through a flannel bag. The time for steeping depends on the warmth of the weather. When the fruit is swelled ready to break, it is fit to press. RASPBERRY WINE. Take three pounds of raisins, wash, clean, and stone them thoroughly ; boil two gallons of spring water for half an hour ; as soon as it is taken off the fire pour it into a deep stone jar, and put in the raisins, with six quarts of raspberries and two pounds of loaf sugar ; stir it well together, and cover them closely, and set it in a cool place ; stir it twice a day, then pass it through a sieve ; put the liquor into a close vessel, adding one pound more loaf sugar ; let it stand for a day and night to settle, after which bottle it, adding a little more sugar. WALNUT WINE. To one gallon of water put two pounds of brown sugar and a pound of honey, and boil them for half an hour ; be careful to skim it cleau ; put into a tub a hand full of walnut leaves HOME MADE WINES. 317 to every gallon, and pour the liquor upon them ; let it stand all night, then take out the leaves and put in half a pint of yeast. Let it work fourteen days ; beat it five times a day to take off its sweetness, and stop up the cask. It should stand six months before it is used. RASPBERRY VINEGAR. To each quart of raspberries, allow a pound of loaf sugar. Mash the raspberries and strew the sugar over them, having first crushed it with the rolling-pin. Let the raspberries and sugar stand till next day, keeping them well covered, then put them in a thin linen bag and squeeze out the juice with your hands. To every pint of juice allow a quart of the best vine- gar. Bottle it, cork it tightly, and set it away for use. It will be ready in a few days. CHAPTER XXIV. v LIQUORS, BEVERAGES, ETC. CHERRY BRANDY. Choose the finest morel cherries you can obtain ; place them in layers in glass jars, strew pounded sugar between each layer, cover them with brandy. As soon as the cherries have imbibed the brandy, pour in more, so as to keep them con- stantly covered. CHERRY BRANDY (BLACK.) Pick and bruise eight pounds of black maroons, and the same quantity of small black cherries; let them stand for two months in a cask with six gallons of brandy, two pounds of crushed sugar, and a quart of sack, well stirred together. At the end of that time it may be drawn off and bottled. CAPILLATRE. Take fourteen pounds of sugar, three pounds of coarse sugar, six eggs beaten in with the shells, three quarts of water: boil it up twice ; skim it well, then add to it a quarter of a pint of orange flower water; strain it through a jelly bag, and put it into bottles when cold ; mix a spoon full or two of this syrup, as it is liked for sweetness, in a draught of warm or cold water. CAPILLAIRE — SYRUP OF. The capillaire of Canada, although that of Montpellier is equally good, is a very odoriferous vegetable, light and agreea- ble, but so extremely volatile that the greatest part of it is dis- LIQUORS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 319 sipated during the preparation of the syrup. To preserve, then, the odor of the eapillaire, when the syrup is sufficiently done, pour it whilst boiling upon some fresh eapillaire, coarsely chop- ped up, then cover your vessel, and let it stand until it is quite cold ; then pass it through a boiling cloth to separate it from the leaves of the eapillaire; take one ounce of the eapillaire from Canada, put it into a glazed pan, pour upon it four pints of boiling water, leave it to infuse for twelve hours over some warm ashes, strain it, and let it run into a vessel ; it will give you a strong tincture of capillare ; melt with this tincture four pounds of sugar ; put the whole into a preserving pan, and put it on the fire, and clarify it with the white of an egg ; continue the cooking ; when your syrup boils put some fresh eapillaire, chopped, into a pan, and pour your syrup whilst boiling upon it, cover your pan carefully, and let it cool ; when your syrup is cold you may flavor it if you please. Put it into bottles, and cork it hermetically. HIPPOCRAS. Take one ounce of cinnamon, two drachms of ginger, two pennyweights of cloves, nutmeg. Pound these together well, and infuse them in a pint of red or white wine, and a pint of malmsey ; to this add a pound of the best loaf sugar. These proportions will make a quart of the liquor. LEMONADE. Take four lemons, pare the rind as thin as possible ; squeeze them into a quart of water, add half a pound of fine sugar, let it stand two or three hours, and pass it through a jelly bag. MEAD. To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey ; boil it an hour ; then put it into a tub with some yeast on a toast ; cover it over. If it ferments well, after three or four days draw 3*20 PRACTICAL COOKERY. it off clear, put it into a cask, with one lemon sliced to every gallon ; add a bottle of brandy to every ten gallons. The rind of Seville oranges cut very thin, suspended in the barrel, will greatly improve the flavor. It is best to wash the cask round with part of the brandy before the liquor is put in. Those who like mead to have an aromatic flavor, may mix with it elder, rosemary, marjoram flowers, and use cinnamon, cloves, ginger, pepper, and cardamums in various proportions, according to taste. Others put in a mixture of thyme, eglantine, rosemary, and marjoram, with various spices. MEAD FRONTLNIAC. Ten pounds of honey, ten pounds of the best raisins, and ten gallons of water ; boil about ten minutes, keeping well skim- med ; put it into a vessel to work ; put to it the fifth of a pint of yeast, letting it work until the yeast begins to fall ; when taken clear off, turn it with the raisins, and throw into the cask the fifth of a quart of elder flowers ; attend to it as the weather changes ; let it remain in the cask twelve months, fine it then with wine finings, and bottle it. MEAD SACK. To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey, and boil it three quarters of an hour, carefully skimming it. To every gallon add one ounce of hops, boil it half an hour, then let it stand until the following day ; put it into a cask, and to thirteen gallons of the liquor add a quart of brandy. Stop it slightly until the fermentation is over, then stop it very close. If you make a large cask, keep it in the cask for twelve months. NOYEAU. Two gallons of gin, two pounds of bitter almonds, one pound of sweet almonds ; pound them in a mortar, and beat to a fine LIQUORS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 321 paste ; six pounds of powdered sugar (mix some with the al- monds ;) let these stand ten days in the gin ; filter through blotting paper, and bottle it. ORANGEADE. Squeeze the juice ; pour some boiling water on the peel, cover it closely, boil water and sugar to a thin syrup and skim it ; when all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup, with as much water as will make a rich sherbet ; strain through a jelly bag. PUNCH. Squeeze the juice of six fine lemons through a sieve into a china bowl; grate some lemon peel on a piece of sugar, scrape off the surface as it becomes yellow, and dissolve the sugar in the lemon juice ; then pour in a bottle of champagne, the same of rum, a bottle of brandy, and a little green tea ; dilute these ingredients with hot water at discretion. The quantity of sugar must be also regulated according to taste. PUNCH, MILK. Fill a bottle as full as possible of lemon peel,, and then add as much brandy as it will admit ; let this, corked, stand in the sun two or three days ; then mix with the brandy, having poured it out, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, four of brandy, two of boiling milk, boiled with spice, and about a pint of lemon juice ; when this is cold strain it till quite clear, and bottle it instantly. RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. Ten pounds of very ripe cherries, two pounds and a half of raspberries, five pounds and a half of red, and two pounds and a half of black currants ; pick and mix these fruits together, press the juice from them, measure it, and for every quart of N* 21 322 PRACTICAL COOKERY. juice take half a pound of sugar and an equal quantity of bran- dy ; dissolve the sugar in the juice, then put in the brandy, and a drachm of mace, and two drachms of cloves. Let the whole stand some time ; filter, and bottle it. Keep them well corked. SHRUB. To a gallon of rum add a quart of Seville orange juice, with three pounds of lump sugar, and a hand full of the peel pared extremely thin ; let it stand in a cask for three months, then filter it through a cloth and bottle it. CURRANT SHRUB. To a pint of strained currant juice, put a pound of sugar. Boil the sugar and juice gently together, eight or ten minutes, then set it w r here it will cool. Add, when lukewarm, a wine glass of French brandy to every pint of syrup — bottle and cork it tight — keep it in a cool place. LEMON SHRUB. Procure nice fresh lemons — pare the rind off thin, then squeeze out the juice of the lemons, and strain it. To a pint of the juice put a pound of white sugar, broken into small pieces. Measure out for each pint of the syrup three table- spoons full of French brandy, and soak the rind of the lemons in it. Let the whole remain a day, stirring up the lemon juice and sugar frequently. The next day turn off the syrup, and mix it with the brandy and lemon rinds — put the whole in clean bottles, cork and seal them tight, and keep them in dry sand, in a cool place. WHOLESOME BEVERAGE. From half a pint to a pint of sweet milk boiled, to which is added a teaspoon full of curry powder and sugar to taste; drank warm it will be found a grateful beverage for those of LIQUORS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 323 weak bowels, and who may require to go abroad on very cold, raw mornings before breakfast, and will be much better, nay entirely supersede, the use of ardent spirits. SPRING- BEER. Take a small bunch of all, or part of the following : sweet fern, sarsaparilla, wintergreen, sassafras, prince's pine, and spice wood. Boil them with two or three ounces of hops to three or four gallons of water, and two or three raw potatoes, pared and cut in slices. The strength of the roots and hops is obtained more thoroughly by boiling them in two waters — for, when the liquor is strongly saturated with the hops, it will rather bind up the roots than extract their juices. The roots should be boiled five or six hours — the liquor should then be strained, and a quart of molasses put to three gallons of the beer. If you wish to have the beer very rich, brown half a pound of bread, and put it into the liquor. If the liquor is too thick, di- lute it with cold water. When just lukewarm; put in a pint of fresh, lively yeast, that has no salt in it. The salt has a ten- dency to keep it from fermenting. Keep it in a temperate situation, covered over, but not so tight as to exclude the air entirely, or it will not work. When fermented, keep it in a tight keg, or bottle and cork it up. GINGER BEER. Boil gently, in a gallon of water, three tablespoons full of cream of tartar, three of ginger, and a lemon cut in slices. When it has boiled half an hour, take it from the fire, strain and sweeten to your taste ; white sugar is the best, but brown sugar or molasses answers very well. Put to it, when luke- warm, half a pint of fresh yeast. Turn it off carefully, when fermented, bottle it, and keep it in a cool place. It will be fit to drink in the course of seven or eight days. 324 PRACTICAL COOKERY. WHITE SPRUCE BEER. Three pounds of loaf sugar ; five gallons of water ; with enough of essence of spruce to give it a flavor ; a cup of good yeast ; a little lemon peel, if you choose ; and when ferment- ed, bottle it up close. It is a delightful beverage in warm weather. HARVEST DRINK. Mix with five gallons of good water, half a gallon of molas- ses, one quart of vinegar, and two ounces of powdered ginger. This will make not only a very pleasant beverage, but one highly invigorating and healthful. CREAM SODA AN EXCELLENT DRINK FOR WARM WEATHER. Five pounds of loaf sugar, one ounce cream of tartar, one ounce Epsom salts, five ounces tartaric acid. Dissolve all the ingredients in one gallon of water, and heat it till it boils ; and skim, if necessary. When cool, put the syrup in bottles, and set in a cool place. To prepare the drink, put two or three tablespoons fall of the syrup into a tumbler two-thirds full of water; add one-fourth of a teaspoon full of super- carbonate of soda ; stir briskly, and the effervescence will be equal to any soda from the fount. Try it. CHAPTER XXV. PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. EGG GRUEL. Boil a pint of new milk ; beat two new laid eggs to a light froth, and pour in while the milk boils ; stir them together tho- roughly, but do not let them boil ; sweeten it with the best of loaf sugar, and grate in a whole nutmeg ; add a little salt, if you like it. Drink half of it while it is warm, and the other half in two hours. It is said to be good for dysentery, as well as nourishing. APPLE WATER. Take one tart apple of ordinary size, well baked ; let it be well mashed ; pour on it one pint of boiling water ; beat them well together ; let it stand to cool, and strain it off for use. Add loaf sugar, if the patient desire it. ARROW ROOT. Put two teaspoons full of the powder into a basin ; mix them smooth with a few teaspoons full of cold water, and let another person pour boiling water over the mixture while you continue to stir it, until it forms a kind of starchy looking sub- stance. Thus prepared, it may be used in the same manner as gruel. It is well adapted for the food of infants, because it is less liable to ferment than either gruel or barley water ; and, for the same reason, it is the best fluid nourishment for those who are afflicted with indigestion. A little milk or wine may be added, to improve the flavor. 32G PRACTICAL COOKERY* A NOURISHING JELLY. Put into a stone jar or jug a set of calves' feet, cut in pieces, a quart of milk, five pints of water, a little mace, half an ounce of isinglass, and a hand fall of hartshorn shavings. Tie some brown paper over the jug, and put it into the oven with house- hold bread. When done, strain it through a sieve ; and when cold, take off the fat. Some of it may occasionally be warmed up with wine and sugar. It is good taken as broth, with herbs. BEEF TEA. Cut a pound of lean beef in thin slices ; put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water; set it over a gentle fire, where it will become gradually warm ; when the scum rises, let it continue simmering gently for about an hour, then strain it through a sieve or a napkin, let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear tea. This is one of the common re- storatives given to persons who are recovering from sickness. TOAST AND WATER. Toast thin slices of bread on both sides, carefully ; then pour cold water over the bread, and cover it tight for one hour; or use boiling water, and let it cool. WATERS FOR COOLING DRAUGHTS OF PRESERVED OR FRESH FRUITS APPLE WATER, LEMON WATER, ETC. Pour boiling water on the preserved or fresh fruits, sliced ; or squeeze out the juice, boil it with sugar, and add water. WATER GRUEL. Mix two tablespoons full of Indian or oat meal, with three of water. Have ready a pint and a half of boiling water in a saucepan or skillet, perfectly clean ; pour this by degrees into the mixture in the bowl ; then return it back into the skillet, PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. 32? and place it on the fire to boil. Stir it, and let it boil half an hour. Skim it, and season it with a little salt. If it is admis- sible, a little sugar and nutmeg renders it more palatable. Also, if milk is not forbidden, a small teacup full added to a pint of gruel, and boiled up once, makes a nice dish for an invalid. MILK PORRIDGE. This is made nearly in the same way as gruel, only using half flour and half meal, and half milk instead of w r ater. It should be cooked before the milk is added, and only boiled up once afterward. WINE WHEY. Take half a pint of new milk, put it on the fire, and the mo- ment it boils, pour in that instant two glasses of wine, and a teaspoon full of powdered sugar previously mixed. The curd will soon form, and after it has boiled, set it aside until the curd settles. Pour the whey oft' and add a pint of boiling water, and loaf sugar to sweeten to the taste. This may be drank in typhus and other fevers, debility, &c. CHICKEN, BEEF, OR VEAL BROTH. This is made by cutting up the chicken, or the lean of veal or beef, and putting in two spoons full of washed rice, and boiling until tender. It may be used, if needed in haste, after boiling in less water about fifteen minutes, then fill- ing it up and finishing. It should be put by in a bowl or pitcher covered, to keep for use. Warm it, and add crumbs of crackers or bread a day or two old, with a little salt, and there is nothing; more palatable for the sick 328 PRACTICAL COOKERY. HOT LEMONADE. Cut up the whole of a lemon, rind and all, add one tea- cup full of white sugar, and pour on boiling water. This is good for colds, and is a pleasant drink for the sick. rice GRUEL. Take one spoon full of rice, a pint and a half of water, a stick of cinnamon or lemon peel ; boil it soft, and add a pint of new milk ; strain it, and season it with a little salt. If you make it of rice flour, mix one spoon full with a lit- tle cold water smoothly, and stir it into a quart of boiling water. Let it boil five or six minutes, stirring it constantly. Season it with salt, nutmeg and sugar, and, if admissible, a little butter. If the patient bears stimulants, a little wine may be added. EGG CREAM. To the yolks of three eggs, and a dessertspoon full of good new milk or cream,, add two drops of oil of cinna- mon. This is a very nourishing mixture. The oil of cinna- mon is cordial and tonic, and the above has been recom- mended in lung complaints, w T here respiration has been at- tended with pain, and a dry cough, especially after eating or exercise. It is also excellent in cases of hectic toward the eve- ning, and of profuse night sweats. CAUDLE. Make a fine, smooth gruel of half grits ; when boiled, strain it ; stir it at times till cold ; when wanted for use, add sugar, wine, and lemon peel, with some nutmeg, according to taste ; you may add, if you please, besides the wine, a spoon full of brandy, or lemon juice. THE COOK'S TABLE OF WEIGHTS ANI3 MEASURES. By which persons not having scales and weights at hand, may readily measure the articles wanted to fdrm any recipe, without the trouble of weighing. Allowance to be made for an extraordinary dryness or moisture of the article weighed or measured. WEIGHT AND MEASURE. Wheat flour, Indian meal, . Butter, when soft, Loaf sugar, broken, White sugar, powdered, Best brown sugar, Eggs, . Flour, Flour . one pound is one pound, two ounces, is one pound is one pound is one pound, one ounce is one pound, two ounces, id ten eggs are . eight quarts are four pecks are one quart, one quart, one quart. one quart. one quart, one quart, one pound, one peck, one bushel. LIQUIDS, ETC Sixteen large tablespoons full are Eight large tablespoons full are Four large tablespoons full are Two gills are Two pints are Four quarts are A common sized tumbler holds A common sized wine glass . A teacup is A large wine glass is A tablespoon full Forty drops are equal to a • Four teaspoons full are equal to half a pint. . one gill. half a gill. . half a pint. one quart. . one* gallon. half a pint. . half a gill. one gill. two ounces. half ounce, one teaspoon full, one tablespoon full. DOMESTIC ECOX03IY. CHAPTER XXVI. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. BLACKING. The best blacking for preserving the leather of boots and shoes, and which will make it perfectly water-tight, is the fol- lowing: Take of yellow wax one ounce and a half, of mutton suet four ounces and a half, turpentine half an ounce, ivory- black three ounces ; melt first the wax, to which add the suet and afterward the turpentine ; when the whole is melted, re- move it from the (ire ; mix in, gradually, the ivory black, con- stantly stirring it till it is cold. This composition is some times run into moulds, and sold under the name of blacking balls ; when it is used, it may be laid or rubbed upon a brush, which should be wanned before the fire; it is also the best blacking for every kind of harness; when it is wanted in a large quantity, it may be gently melted in a ladle or pot over a chafing dish of live coals. TO KNOW GOOD FLOUU. When Hour is genuine, or of the best kind, it holds together in amass when squeezed by the hand, and shows the impres- sion of the fingers, and even of the marks of the skin, much longer than when it is Lad or adulterated ; and the dough made with it is very gluey, ductile, and elastic, easy to be kneaded, and which may lie elongated, flattened, and drawn in every di- rection without, breaking. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 331 TO CLEAN DECANTERS. Roll up in small pieces some coarse brown paper, then wet and soap the same ; put them into the vessel with a little luke- warm water, and some common soda, shake them well, rinse with clean water, and it will be as bright and clear as when new. CLEANING FLOOR CLOTHS. After sweeping and cleaning the floor cloths with a broom and damp flannel, in the usual manner, wet them over with milk, and rub them till beautifully bright with a dry cloth; they will thus look as if they were rubbed fii\-t with a waxed flannel, and afterward with a dry one, without being so slip- pery, or so soon clogging with dust or dirt. « GOOD SHAVING SOAP. Take four pounds white bar soap, one quart rain water, one half pint beef's gall, one gill spirits of turpentine. Cut the soap into thin slices, and boil five minutes after the soap is dissolved ; stir while boiling ; color it with one half paper Vermillion — scent with what you like ; use the oil instead of essence. Sev- enty-five cents' worth of materials will make seven dollars' wurth of soap. TO KEEP THE HANDS SOFT. Rub the hands well in soap till a lather is produced ; then rub on a sufficient quantity of sand to let the soap predomi- nate ; after well rubbing, wash in warm water. Repeat this two or three times a day, as circumstances may require, and the hands will be kept perfectly soft. TO PREVENT IRON RUSTING. Warm \ our iron till you cannot bear your hand on it with- out burning vourself. Then rub it with new and clean wax 332 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. Put it again to the lire till it has soaked in the wax. When done, rub it over with a piece of serge. This prevents the iron from rusting afterward. TO CLEAN TURKEY CARPETS. To revive the color of a Turkey carpet, beat it well with a stick till the dust is all out, then with a lemon or sorrel juice take out the spots of ink, if the carpet be stained with any ; wash it in cold water, and afterward shake out all the water from the threads of the carpet ; when it is thoroughly dry rub it all over with the crumb of a hot wheat loaf, and if the weath- er is very fine hang it out in the open air a night or two. TO CLEAN WATER CASKS. Scour the inside well out with water and sand, and after- •ward apply a quantity of charcoal dust ; another and a better method is to rinse them with a strong solution of oil of vitriol and water, which entirely deprives them of their foulness. TO DETECT WHITING OR CHALK IN FLOUR. Mix with the flour some juice of lemon or good vinegar, if the flour be pure they will remain together at rest, but if there be a mixture of whitiug or chalk, a fermentation or working like yeast will ensue ; the adulterated meal is whiter and heav- ier than the good. A SUBSTITUTE FOR WHITE OIL PAINT. Four quarts of skim milk, one pound of fresh-slacked lime, twelve ounces of linseed oil, four ounces of white Burgundy pitch, six pounds of Spanish white, to be mixed as follows: The lime to be slacked in water, exposed to the air, mixed in about one-fourth of the milk; the oil, in which the pitch is to have been previously dissolved, to be added a little at a time ; then the rest of the milk, and afterward the Spanish white. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 333 This quantity is sufficient for more than fifty square yards with two coats. TO TAKE SMELL FROM FRESH PAINT. Let tubs of water be placed in the room,* newly painted, near the wainscot, and an ounce of vitriolic acid put into the water ; and, in a few days, this water will absorb and retain the effluvia from the paint, but the water should be .renewed with a fresh supply once or twice. CEMENT FOR IRON WARE. Beat the whites of eggs to a froth ; then stir into them enough quicklime to make a consistent paste ; then add iron file dust to make a thick paste. The quicklime should be re- duced to a fine powder before mixing it with the eggs. Fill the cracks in iron ware with this cement, and let them remain several weeks before using them. A CHEAP AND DURABLE CEMENT. A most valuable and durable cement for the outside cover- ing of wood buildings and fences, may be obtained by mixing two parts of sifted wood ashes, one of fine sand, and three of clay ; these being again mixed with oil, and applied to the surface of the wood, it is said to be capable of resisting the in- clemency of the weather, even better than marble itself. BLACK INK. Take four ounces of galls, two ounces of copperas, and one ounce of gum Arabic. Beat the galls, and put them in a quart of warm soft water. Soak it eight or nine days in the hot sun, or by the fire, shaking it often. Then add the copperas and gum, and it will be fit for use in two or three days. The gum Arabic must be dissolved in warm water, and a half ounce of alum powdered, added to the whole. 334 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. BEESWAX. To obtain wax, boil the combs in a strong muslin bag, in a sauce pan, with water sufficient to keep the bag from burning, and while boiling, continue to press the bag with a wooden slice or spoon, 'to extract the whole, as you skim off the wax. Drop the wax into cold water, where it will swim on the sur- face. The wax thus obtained will still want refining, to effect which, place it in a sauce pan, and melt it over a slow fire. Then pour off the clear wax into proper vessels, and let it cool. FENCES. In reply to an inquiry of a correspondent, the editor of the Massachusetts Ploughman gives the following interesting facts : Boards will last a long while when well supported by posts. See the boards of eighty years on old barns and out buildings! Posts last a vast deal longer in wet soils than in dry, sandy loams — longer in clay than in the richest soil. In peat mead- ows the bottoms of posts hold out longer than the tops and the rails. On dry soils, posts should be charred, and if the owner would be at the trouble of placing a few ashes around each post, he would preserve them twice as long as without ashes. Lime, also, is good to preserve wood, though farmers sometimes use it to hasten the rotting of compost heaps. HARD CEMENT FOR SEAMS. A very excellent cement for seams in the roofs of houses, or for any other exposed places, is made with white lead, dry white sand, and as much oil as will make it into the consist- ency of putty. This cement gets as hard as any stone in the course of a few weeks. The lead forms a kind of flux with the sand ; it is excellent for filling up cracks in exposed parts of brick buildings ; it is also a good cement for pointing up the MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 335 base of chimneys, where they project through the roofs of shingled houses. TO CLEAN CHINA. China is best cleaned, when very dirty, with finely pow- dered fuller's-earth and warm water. A little clean soft soap may be added to the water instead of fuller's-earth. The same is recommended for cleaning glass. TO CLEAN PLATE. A flannel and soap, and soft water, with proper rubbing, wili clean plate nicely. It should be wiped dry with a good-sized piece of soft leather. Others use a little whiting and sweet oil, mixed. TO CLEAN OIL PAINTINGS. Clean the picture well with a sponge, dipped in warm beer; after it has become perfectly dry, wash it with a solution of the finest gum-dragon, dissolved in pure water. Never use blue starch, which tarnishes and eats out the coloring ; nor white of eggs, which casts a thick varnish over pictures, and only mends bad ones by concealing the faults of the coloring. ECONOMY IN FUEL. A saving of nearly one-third of the coal consumed may be made by the following easy means : Let the coal ashes, which are usually thrown into the dust bin, be preserved in a corner of the coal hole, and make your servants add to them from your coal heap an equal part of the small coal or slack, which is too small to be retained in the grate, and pour a small quan- tity of water upon the mixture. When you make up your fire, place a few round coals in front, and throw some of this mixture behind; it saves the trouble of sifting your ashes, gives a warm and pleasant fire, and a very small pare only will remain unburnt. 336 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. GOOD YTNEGAR. To eight gallons of clear rain water add three quarts of mo- lasses ; turn the mixture into a clean, tight cask ; shake it well two or three times, and add three spoons full of good yeast, or two yeast cakes. Place the cask in a warm place, and in ten or fifteen days add a sheet of common wrapping paper, smeared with molasses, and torn into narrow strips, and you will have good vinegar. The paper is necessary to form the "mother," or life, of the liquor. CIDER VINEGAR. The poorest cider will answer for vinegar, in the making of which proceed thus : First draw off the cider into a cask that has had vinegar in it before, if you have such a one ; then put into it some of the apples, that have been pressed, or pumice ; if placed in the sun, in two weeks it may be drawn away and put into another cask, fit for use. TO BLACKEN THE FRONTS OF STONE CimiNEY-PIECES. Mix oil-varnish with lamp-black, and a little spirits of turpen- tine to thin it to the consistence of paint. Wash the stone with soap and water, very clean ; then sponge it with clear water, and when perfectly dry, brush it over twice with this color, letting it dry between the times. It looks extremely well. The lamp-black must be sifted first. TRACING PATER, Mix six quarts by weight of the spirits of turpentine, one of rosin, and one of boiled nut-oil, and lay this on the paper with a brush or sponge. If the Canada balsam is employed as a substitute for the rosin, a finer quality of tracing paper is the result. The paper should be well dried before used. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 337 CEMENT FOR IRON FLUES. Common salt and sifted wood -ashes, in equal parts, made into a paste with water, is a very good cement for iron flues, and may be applied when the flue is hot or cold. Iron filings and vinegar will do almost as well, or rather iron filings moist- ened with diluted muriatic acid. These are generally used for filling up the space between cylinders. TO EXTRACT MARKING INK. The following process will be found easy and effectual. Take the piece of marked linen and immerse it in a solution of chloride of lime ; when in a few minutes the characters will pass from black to white, owing to a new preparation of silver being formed, namely, white chloride of silver, which still re- mains in the fabric ; but owing to its solubility in solution of ammonia, it may be entirely extracted by immersion in that liquid, immediately it is removed out of the first, and allowing it to remain in it for a few minutes ; after this, it only re- quires to be well rinsed in clean water, which completes the process. TO TREVENT COLD FEET IN BED. Draw off your stockings just before undressing, and rub your ankles and feet well with your hand, as hard as you can bear the pressure, for five or ten minutes, and you will never have to complain of cold feet in bed. It is hardly conceivable what a pleasurable glow this diffuses. Frequent washing of the feet, and rubbing them thoroughly dry with a linen cloth or flannel, is very useful. ECONOMICAL USE OF NUTMEG. If you grate a nutmeg at the stalk end, it will prove hollow throughout ; whereas the same nutmeg, had it been grated from the other end, would have proved sound and solid to the last. O 22 338 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. TO EXTINGUISH A FIRE. A solution of five ounces muriate of ammonia in one gallon of water will easily extinguish a large fired FROST-BITTEN FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. Such fruits and roots as pears, apples, and potatoes, as have been penetrated by frost, may be recovered by putting them into cold water when a thaw approaches, and letting them re- main in the water for some t'me, till by the plumpness and fairness of the fruits and root.--, it appears that the particles of frost arc extracted. This method has often been tried, and found to answer. TO PREVENT TEA-KETTLES COATING WITH LIME. Put the shell of an oyster in the tea-kettle, and the lime will adhere to it, instead of coating the sides. FURNITURE POLISH. Beeswax half a pound, and a quarter of an ounce of alkanet root; melt together in a pipkin, until the former is well col- ored. Then add linseed oil and spirits of turpentine, of each half a gill ; strain through a piece of coarse muslin. Another : White wax two ounces, oil of turpentine one gill ; melt the wax, and gradually mix in the turpentine. • TO MAKE HARD WATER SOFT. Dissolve two tablespoons full of fresh quick-lime in two and a quarter gallons of water ; stir it into a barrel of hard water, and let it stand sixteen hours to settle. Chalk will be precipi- tated to the bottom, and the water will be perfectly soft and fit for use. ANOTHER. For every hundred gallons take half a pound of the best quick-lime; make it into a cream by the addition of water; MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 339 then diffuse it through the hard water in a tank or reservoir, and allow the whole to stand; it will quickly be bright; the lime having united with the carbonate of lime, which makes the hard water, will be all deposited. This is a most beauti- ful application of the art of chemistry. HERBS FOR DRYING. The best state in which balm, thyme, sage, and other kitchen or medicinal herbs can be gathered for drying to preserve for winter use, is just as their flowers are opening ; at that period of growth they are found to contain more of the essential oil, on which their flavors depend, than at any other time. TO CLARIFY HONEY. Take six pounds of honey, a pound and three-quarters of water, two ounces and a quarter of pounded chalk, five ounces of coal, pulverized, washed, and well dried, the whites of three eggs, well beaten in three ounces of water for each pound of honey ; put the honey, water, chalk, and eggs into a copper vessel that will hold about one-third more ; let them boil for two minutes ; throw in the coal, mixing it with a spoon, and continuing the boiling two minutes longer ; then take the sauce pan from the fire, and let it stand nearly a quarter of an hour, that the liquor may cool ; then take a new sieve — it must be well washed or it will impart a disagreeable taste — pass the honey through, taking care to filter the first drops twice, as they generally carry with them a portion of coal ; the syrup which still adheres to the coal and other materials may be sep- arated as follows : pour boiling water on them till they no longer retain any sweetness ; then put these waters together ; set them over a large fire to evaporate, until the syrup only remains. 340 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. TO SEPARATE WAX FROM THE COMB. Tie the comb up in a linen or woolen bag ; place it in a kettle of cold water, and hang it over the fire. As the water heats, the wax melts and rises to the surface, while all the im- purities remain in the bag. It is well to put a few pebbles in the bag to keep it from floating. TO PREVENT INK FROM FREEZING. Instead of water use brandy, and it will never freeze. TO MAKE STAIR CARPETS LAST. Slips of paper should always be placed over the edges of the stairs, under the carpet. This will diminish the friction between the carpet and the boards underneath it. The strips should be in length within an inch or two of the width of the carpet, and four or five inches in breadth, as convenient. This simple expedient will preserve the carpet half as long again as it would last without the strips. COLD SOAP. Take one gallon of lye, strong enough to bear up an egg, to every pound of grease. Put the lye into your barrel, and strain the grease hot through a sieve or cullender. Stir three or four times a day for several days, or until it thickens. By tibia process you have soap clearer, and with much less trouble, than in the old way. SOAP. When preparing to make soap, add a little old soap to the lye and grease. This will greatly facilitate the labor of the making. . TO SEW NEW AND STIFF CLOTH EASILY. Pass a cake of white soap a few times over it, and the needle will penetrate easily. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 341 TO CLEAN KNIVES. One of the best substances for cleaning knives and forks is charcoal, reduced to a fine powder, and applied in the same manner as brick dust is used. This is a recent and valuable disco very. CAUTIONS RELATIVE TO THE USE OF BRASS AND COPPER COOKING UTENSILS. Cleanness has been aptly styled the cardinal virtue of cooks. Food is more healthy, as well as palatable, cooked in a cleanly manner. Many lives have been lost in consequence of care- lessness in using brass, copper, and glazed earthen cooking utensils. The two first should be thoroughly cleansed with salt and hot vinegar before cooking in them, and no oily or acid substance, after being cooked, should be allowed to cool or remain in any of them. TO RELIEVE THE BREATH FROM ONIONS. A few fresh walnuts or raw leaves of parsley, eaten immedi- ately after dinner, will speedily remove that disagreeable taint which always infects the breath after partaking of onions or garlics. ESSENCES. An ounce of oil to one pint of alcohol, is about a fair pro- portion. Let them be well shaken together. BUTTER. In churning cream, add a lump of butter to the cream be- fore commencing, and the butter will come in two-thirds the time it would without. TO PRESERVE GAME LN HOT WEATHER. Game or poultry may be preserved for a long time, by ty- ing a string tight round the neck, so as to exclude the air, and by putting a piece of charcoal in the vent. 342 DOMESTIC KOOKOMT. RUSSIAN METHOD OF PRESERVING FISH. When the Russians desire to keep fish perfectly fresh, to be carried a long journey in a hot climate, they dip them into hot beeswax, which acts like an air-tight covering. In this way they are taken to Malta, sweet, even in summer. STARCH. There is no better way for making nice starch for shirt bo- soms, than to boil it thoroughly after mixing, adding a little fine salt, and a few shavings of a star or spermaceti candle ; the star or pressed candle is quite as good as sperm. Let the starch boil at least ten minutes, and it will give a gloss if neatly ironed, fully satisfactory to the exquisite taste of a dandy. WHITE SATIN. Stone blue and flannel will make white satin look nearly new, especially if rubbed afterward with crumbs of bread. TO CLEAN GOLD OK SILVER LACE. Rub it gently with cotton wool, or a soft brush dipped in spirits of wine, taking care not to injure the silk beneath. TO REMOVE RUST FEOM FINELY FINISHED STEEL. Hub the rust with any kind of soft animal fat. and lay the ar- ticles by, wrapped in thick paper, for two or three days ; then, after cleaning off the grease with a piece of soft flannel, rub the spots well with powdered rotten stone and sweet-oil, after which the polish may be restored, by rubbing with powdered emery, on a soft leather; and the process may be finished with finely-powdered chalk or magnesia. BLACK BALL. Melt together, moderately, ten ounces of bayberry tallow, five ounces of beeswax, one ounce of mutton tallow. When MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 343 •melted, add lamp or ivory black to give it a good black color. Stir the whole well together, and add, when taken from the fire, half a glass of rum. CEMENT FOR THE MOUTHS OF CORKED BOTTLES. Melt together a quarter of a pound of sealing-wax, the same quantity of rosin, a couple of ounces of beeswax. When it froths, stir it with a tallow candle. As soon as it melts, dip the mouths of the corked bottles into it. This is an excellent thing to exclude the air from such things as are injured by be- ing exposed to it. TO PEEVENT MOULD IN BOOKS, PASTE, INK, AND LEATHER. A few drops of oil of lavender will save a library from mould ; a single drop will save a pint of ink ; paste and leath- er may also be_ preserved. A little salt or white wine will preserve ink from mould. TO DESTROY ANTS. It so happened that a piece of camphor was laid in a drawer containing sugar, and which was sadly infested by ants. On opening it, a few days afterward, the bottom of the drawer was literally strewn with dead ants. The experiment was repeated with success — a small piece of camphor placed in the corner of the drawer being quite sufficient. Camphor dissolved in al- cohol, and diluted with water, might destroy them, if sprinkled on trees or walls, or if poured into their nests. ANOTHER. As a remedy against ants, procure a large sponge, wash it well, press it very dry ; by so doing it will leave the small cells open. Lay it on the shelf where they are most trouble- some, sprinkle some fine white sugar on the sponge, and two or three times a day drop it in scalding water, and you will 344 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. slay them by the thousand, and soon rid the house of those troublesome insects. FOR KILLING RATS. Mix some unslacked lime with corn-meal, and place it where the rats may accidentally find it. They will soon become very thirsty, and, upon drinking water, the lime slacks and swells the rat till it kills him. In the Bahama Isles, sponge is fried and placed in their way ; they eat it, drink, swell, burst, and die. Lime and meal should be, of the first one part and meal two parts, well mixed together, and dry. TO KEEP BUGS FROM VINES. Take the feathers from a hen's wing, and dip them in spirits of turpentine, and stick one or two in a hill, and after every shower they will want to be dipped over again. SOAP. Soap, as well as candles, is improved by keeping. Buy your store for the winter as early as September, and cut the large bars of soap into pieces, to dry. It goes farther, and is better. ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. Take an ounce and a half of the best isinglass, cut it into pie- ces, and wash them in warm water several times ; put the ising- lass into a stewpan with five glasses of filtered water, set it on the fire, and as soon as it boils set it at the side of the stove so as to keep up the boiling; take off the scum as soon as it rises, and when the whole is reduced to three-quarters, strain it through a cloth into a basin for use. IRON SPOTS ON MARBLE. To remove iron spots from marble, mix equal quantities of spirit of vitriol and lemon juice ; shake it well,wct the spots MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 345 with the mixture, and in a few minutes rub with a soft linen, until they are completely effaced. INK SPOTS. As soon as the accident happens, wet the place with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and the best white hard soap. Or the cloth may be soaked in sweet milk. OFFENSIVE SMELLS. One of the best and most pleasant disinfectants is coffee ; the simplest way to use it is to pound the well-dried raw beans in a mortar and strew the powder over a moderately-heated iron plate. The simple traversing of the house with a roaster containing freshly roasted coffee will clear it of offensive smells. TO PEESEEVE EGGS. Apply with a brush a solution of gum Arabic to the shells, or immerse the eggs therein ; let them dry, and afterwards pack them in dry charcoal dust; this prevents their being af- fected by any alterations of temperature. Or, take a stone jar or firkin, and put in a layer of salt half an inch deep; insert your eggs on the small end, and cover each layer of eggs with salt. If the eggs are fresh when packed, and put into a cool, dry place, they will keep perfectly good until the following summer. Another way is to pack as before, and pour over them melt- ed lard. In this they will keep good for a long time. When taken out for use, put them in warm water, which will melt off the lard, and which may be used again, ad infinitum. TO PEEFUME LINEN. Rose leaves, dried in the shade or at about four feet from a stove, one pound ; of cloves, caraway seeds, and allspice, of each one ounce; pound in a mortar, or grind in a mill; dried O* 346 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. salt a quarter of a pound; mix all these together, aud put the compound in little bags. ANOTHER. Take cloves, cedar, and rhubarb, each one ounce ; pulver- ize, and sprinkle it in the chest or drawer. It will create a beautiful scent, and prevent moths. RATS AND Mid . The asphodel is useful in driving away rats and mice, which have such an antipathy to this plant that if their holes be stop- ped up with it they will rather die than pass where it has been placed. TO RESTORE STALE BEEE. To about a quart of stale beer put half a teaspoon full of salt of wormwood ; this will restore the beer and make it sparkle when poured into a glass, like bottled porter. RICE MILK. Take some rice — one ounce for each person — wash it well in warm water, then put it in boiling milk, and boil it for two or three hours over a slow fire, stirring often, adding salt or sugar to liking, and cinnamon. TO TAKE MAINS OUT OF SILKS. Mix together in a phial two ounces of essence of lemon, and one ounce of oil of turpentine. Grease and other spots in silks are to be rubbed gently with a linen rag dipped in the above composition. TO EXTRACT GREASE SPOTS FROM SILKS, MUSLINS, ETC. Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease spot, and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron or water-plate filled with boiling water ; the grease will melt, and the French chalk ab- MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. f. j * sorb it, brush or rub it off; repeat if necessary. If you have not French chalk, magnesia will effectually remove grease spots from silk, on rubbing it in well ; and, after standing a while, apply a piece of soft brown paper to the wrong side, on which press a warm iron gently, and what grease is not absorbed by the paper can be removed by washing the spot carefully with cold water. A SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM. Beat up the whole of a fresh egg in a basin, and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, to prevent its curdling ; it is diffi- cult from the taste to distinguish it from rich cream. TO TAKE MILK FROM CREAM. Use a syphon, and draw off the milk from beneath the sur- face of the cream, and thus completely separate the two liquids by the simplest means and with the least possible trouble. TO PRESERVE MILK. Put a spoon full of horseradish into a pan of milk, and it will remain sweet for several days, either in the open air or in a cellar, while other milk will sour. VENTILATION OF HOUSES. The great attention paid to making houses close and warm, though apparently well adapted to the comfort of the inhabi- tants, is by no means favorable to the health, unless care be taken every day to admit fresh air by the windows. Some- times it may be proper to make use of what is called pumping the room, or moving the door backward and forward for some minutes together. The practice of making the beds early in the day, however it may suit convenience or delicacy, is, doubt- less, improper. It would be much better to turn them down, and expose them to the influence of the air admitted by the windows. :. t« DOMESTIC ECONOMV. Fur many persons to sleep in one room, as in the ward of a hospital, is very hurtful to health ; and it is scarcely a less in- jurious custom, though often practiced by those who have splendid houses, for two or more to sleep in a small apartment, especially if it be very close. Flues and opening for ventila- tion should always be attended to in building. COMPOSITION TO MAKE COLORED DRAWINGS AND PRINTS RESEMBLE PAINTINGS LN OIL. Take of Canada balsam, one ounce ; spirits of turpentine, two ounces; mix them together. Before this composition is ap- plied, the drawing or print should be sized with a solution of isinglass in water, and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel's hair brush, A YARNISH TO COLOR BASKETS. Take either red, black, or white sealing wax, whichever color you wish to make ; to every two ounces of sealing wax, add one ounce of spirits of wine ; pound the wax fine, then sift it through a fine lawn sieve, till you have made it extremely fine : put it into a large pfiial with the spirits of wine, shake it, let it stand near the fire forty-eight hours, shaking it often ; then, with a little, brush the baskets all over with it ; let them dry, and do them over a second time. COURT PLASTER. Bruise a sufficient quantity of fish glue, and let it soak for twenty-four hours in a little warm water ; expose it to heat over the fire, to dissipate the greater part of the water, and sup- ply its place by colorless brandy, which will mix the gelatine of the glue. Strain the whole through a piece of open linen ; on cooling, it will form a trembling jelly. Now extend a piece of black silk on a wooden frame, and fix it in that position by means of tacks, or pack thread. Then with a brush made of badger's hair, apply the glue, after it has MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 349 been exposed to a gentle heat to render it liquid. When this stratum is dry, which will soon be the case, apply a second, and then a third, if necessary, to give the plaster a certain thick- ness ; as soon as the whole is dry, cover it with two or three strata of a strong tincture of balsam of Peru. This is the real English court plaster ; it is pliable, and never breaks, characters which distinguish it from so many other preparations sold under the same name. TO RENEW OLD BREAD AND CAKE. Fill a bread steamer about half full of water, and lay the dry bread on it, and set it oii the fire, where it will steam the bread from half to three-quarters of an hour ; then wrap the bread in a towel, and let it remain till dry. In this way, bread that is old and dry may be made moist and good. When a steam- er cannot be procured, soak the bread in cold water till it has ab- sorbed sufficient water to be moist inside — then put it in a bake pan, without any cover, and heat it very hot. If broken pieces of bread are put in the oven, five or six hours after baking, and rusked, they will keep good a long time. Sour, heavy bread, treated in this manner, will make very decent cakes and pud- dings, provided there is enough saleratus used in making them to correct the acidity of the bread. Rich cake, that has wine or brandy in it, will remain good in cold weather several months, if it is kept in a cool, dry place. The day in which it is to be eaten, put it in a cake pan, and set it in a bake pan that has half a pint of water in it — set on the bake pan cover, and let the cake bake till, it is heated very hot. Let it get cold before cutting it. TO PRESERVE CHEESE FROM LNSECTS. Cover the cheese, while whole, with a paste made of wheat flour ; then wrap a cloth round it, and cover it with the paste. o50 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. Keep the cheese in a cool, dry place. Cheese that has skip- pers in it, if kept till cold weather, will be freed from them. BLUE INK. Dissolve one ounce of gum Arabic in a pint of water. In a part of this gum- water grind a small quantity of Prussian blue ; you may thus bring it to any depth of color you wish. Indigo will answer, though not so nice. RED LNK. Take of the raspings of Brazil wood a quarter of a poun I, and infuse them two or three days in vinegar, which should be colorless where it can be so procured. Boil the infusion an hour over a gentle fire, and afterward filter it, while hot, through paper laid in an earthenware cullender. Put it again over the fire, and dissolve in it, first half an ounce of gum Arabic, and afterward of alum and white sugar, each half an ounce. Care should be taken that the Brazil wood be not adulterated with the Brasiletto or Campeachy wood. LNDELIBLE INK. To four drachms of lunar caustic in four ounces of water, add sixty drops of nut galls made strong by being pulverized and steeped in soft water. The mordant which is to be ap- plied to the cloth before writing, is composed of one ounce of pearlash dissolved in four ounces of water, with a little gum Arabic dissolved in it. Wet the spot with this, dry and iron the cloth, then write. HARD SOAP. Take eight pounds of soft soap — if you wish it nice, use that made of olive oil — boil it two hours with six pounds of common salt, and it will make five pounds of hard soap. Add a little rosin when you melt it over, and if you wish it nice, scent it with fragrant <>:!. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 351 TO MAKE CALICOES WASH WELL. Infuse three gills of salt in four quarts of boiling water, and put the calicoes in while hot, and leave them till cold ; in this way the colors are rendered permanent, and will not fade by subsequent washing. So says a lady who has frequently made the experiment herself. Nothing can be cheaper or quicker done. FIRE AND WATER PROOF CEMENT. To half a pint of milk, put an equal quantity of vinegar, in order to curdle it ; then separate the curd and the whey, and mix the whey with four or five eggs, beating the whole well togeth- er. When it is well mixed, add a little quicklime through the sieve, until it has acquired the consistence of paste. With this cement, broken vessels and cracks of all kinds maybe mended. It dries quickly, and resists the action of the water, as well a3 of a considerable degree of fire. TO PREVENT THE RAVAGES OF MOTHS. The ravages of the woolen moth may be prevented by the use of tobacco, camphor, red pepper, turpentine, and, perhaps, the most agreeable for wearing apparel, a mixture of one ounce of cloves, one ounce of rhubarb, and one ounce of cedar sha- vings, tied up in a bag, and kept in the box or drawer. If the substance be dry, scatter it in the folds of the cloth, carpet, blan- kets, or furs ; if liquid, sprinkle it freely in the boxes, or on the cloth or wrapper, laid over and around it. THE RED ANT. Where they are troublesome, it is said that sage leaves, fresh picked, will keep them away, if scattered in places you wish to protect. UTILITY OF NETTLES. Steel dipped in the juice of the nettle becomes flexible*, lint dipped in nettle juice put up the nostril has been known to stay 352 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. the bleeding of the nose, when other remedies have failed ; and fourteen or fifteen of the seeds ground into powder and taken daily, will cure the swelling in the neck known by the name of goitre, without in any way injuring the general system. USEFUL KNIFE-BO AltD. Cover a common knife-board with buffleather on which are put emery one part, crocus martis three parts, in very fine pow- der, mixed into a thick paste with a little lard or sweet oil, and spread on the leather to the thickness of a shilling. This meth- od gives a for superior edge and polish to the knife than the common practice of using brickdust on aboard. TO PRESERVE FLO WEES IN WATER. Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will pre- serve the flowers for a fortnight. Common saltpetre is also a good preservative. TO KEEP A STOVE BEIGHT. Make a weak alum-water, and mix your British luster with it, perhaps two teaspoons full to a gill of alum-water ; let the stove be cold, brush it with the mixture, then take a dry brush, and rub the stove till it is perfectly dry. Should any part, be- fore polishing, be so dry as to look gray, moisten it with a wet brush, and proceed as before said. Warm water will do, if you have no alum. TO WHITEN THE HANDS. Take a wine-glass full of eau de cologne, and another of lem- on juice; then scrape two cakes of brown Windsor soap, or the same quantity of pure white soap, to a powder, and mix well in a mould. When hard, it will be excellent for whiten- ing the hands. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 353 TO REMOTE MARKS FROM A TABLE. If a whitish mark is left on a table, by carelessly setting on a pitcher of boiling water, or a hot dish, pour some lamp oil on the spot, and rub it hard with a soft cloth. Then pour on a lit- tle spirits of wine or cologne water, and rub it dry with anoth- er cloth. The white mark will thus disappear, and the table look as well as ever. TO CLEAN BRASS ORNAMENTS. Brass ornaments, that have not been gilt or lacquered, may be cleaned, and a very brilliant color given to them, by wash- ing them with alum boiled in strong lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a pint, and afterward rubbing them with a strong tripoli. TO MEND CROCKERY WARE. Wash the vessel gently and thoroughly with soap and wa- ter ; rinse with soft water, and let it dry without wiping. The pieces should then be fitted together as soon as possible, and kept in their places by winding firmly over the bowl or dish a strong thread, or a piece of twine ; put the broken article into a boiler, an inch or two larger each way, and fill them both with sweet, cold, skimmed milk ; set the boiler over the fire, and boil for ten or fifteen minutes; take it off, and let it stand till quite cold, when the string, or twine, may be cut, and the article washed in warm water. TO PETRIFY WOOD. Wood, it is said, may be petrified by the following process : Take equal quantities of gem salt, rock alum, white vinegar, calx, and pebble powder. Mix all these ingredients together, and there will be an ebullition. When this subsides, throw in the wood, or any other porous matter, and let it soak four or five days, at the end of which time the petrifaction will be complete. 23 354 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. TO STOP A LEAK. Take yellow soap and beat it up thick with whiting, and rub it into the leak ; it will be found to stop it when other things have failed. PASTE. Take two tablespoons full of flour and stir it into a half pint of cold water until the lumps are all broken, then pour this in- to a pint of boiling water, stirring while doing so ; afterward let it boil up once or twice, and take off. CHEAP LEMON FLAVOR. When lemons are plenty procure a quantity, cut them in- to thin slices and lay them on plates to dry in the oven ; when dry, put them into a tight bag, or close vessel, in the store- room, where they are both handy and agreeable for almost anything. TO CLEAN ELD GLOVES. First see that your hands are clean, then put on your gloves, and wash them as though you were washing your hands, in a basin of turpentine, until quite clean ; hang them up in a warm place, or where there is a good current of air, which will carry off the smell of the turpentine. This method was brought from Paris, and many thousand dollars have been made by it. ANOTHER. Take a piece of flannel, moisten it with a little milk, rub it on a cake of nice hard soap, and then apply it to the soiled part of the glove. As soon as you have removed the dirt, rub the kid with a dry piece of flannel. Care must be taken not to make the glove too wet. TO WASH WOOLENS. To prevent shrinking, all descriptions of woolen goods should be washed in very hoi wrater, with soap ; and as soon MISCELLANEOUS HECIPES. 355 as the article is cleansed, immerse it in cold water ; then let it be hung up to be dried. A VARNISH TO PREVENT THE RAYS OF THE SUN FROM PASS- ING THROUGH WINDOW OR OTHER GLASS. Pound gum tragacanth into powder, and put it to dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs, well beaten. Lay a coat of this on your glass with a soft brush, and let it dry. TO GIVE LUSTER TO SILVER. Dissolve a quantity of alum in water, so as to make pretty strong brine, which must be skimmed very carefully; add some soap to it, and when you wish to use it, dip a piece of linen rag in it, and rub over the plate. WASH-LEATHER UNDER-WAISTCOATS. A waistcoat of this material, worn over flannel, will be found, especially in the country, to be very comfortable, and a pre- servative against the consequences of sudden exposures in our changeable climate. In many cases it will supersede the ne- cessity of, and prove a more effective barrier against cold, than an overcoat. GERMAN SILVER. Few are aware of the poisonous qualities of this compound. It is good for a variety of uses, but should never be used for spoons or vessels for cooking. It is composed of copper, ar- senic, and nickel. It is oxydized by acids, and acts in the stom- ach as a slow but sure poison. GENUINE WHNDSOR SOAP. To make this famous soap for washing the hands, shaving, &c, nothing more is necessary than to slice the best white soap as thin as possible; melt it in a stew pan over a slow 356 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. fire ; scent it well with oil of caraway, and then pour it into a frame or mould, made for that purpose, or a small drawer, adapted in size and form to the quantity. When it has stood three or four days in a dry situation, cut it into square pieces, and it is ready for use. By this simple mode, substituting any more favorite scent for that of caraway, all persons may suil themselves with a good perfumed soap, at the most trifling expense. TO BLEACH LINEN. Mix common bleaching powder, in the proportion of one pound to a gallon of water ; stir it occasionally for three days ; let it settle, and pour it off clear. Then make a lye of one pound of soda to a gallon of boiling soft water, in which soak the linen for twelve hours, and boil it half an hour ; next, soak it in the bleaching liquor, made as above ; and, lastly, wash it in the usual manner. Discolored linen or muslin may be restored, by putting a portion of bleaching liquor into the tub wherein the articles are soaking. TO RESTORE LLNEN THAT HAS LONG BEEN STALLED. Rub the stains on each side with wet brown soap. Mix some starch to a thick paste with cold water, and spread it over the soaped places. Then expose the linen to the sun and air ; and, if the stains have not disappeared in three or four days, rub off the mixture, and repeat the process with fresh soap and starch. Afterward dry it; wet it with cold water, and put it in the wash. TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF MAHOGANY. Spirits of salts six parts, salts of lemon one part. Mix, then drop a little on the stains, and rub them till they dis- appear. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 357 rO RESTORE COLORS TAKEN OUT BY ACIDS. Sal- volatile or hartshorn will restore colors taken out by acids. Tt will not harm the garment. TO MAKE WHITEWASH THAT WILL NOT RUB OFF. Mix up half a pail full of lime and water, ready to put on the wall ; then take one gill of flour and mix it with the wa- ter ; then pour on it boiling water sufficient to thicken it; then pour it, while hot, into the whitewash ; stir it all well together, and it is ready for use. ANOTHER RECIPE FOR WHITEWASHING. Take two quarts of newly burnt lime — the whitest pieces are the best ; put them into a pail or kettle ; pour boiling wa- ter on it, and stir it often ; keep adding hot water to keep it fluid until nearly done slacking ; then take a teacup full of rice, and boil it to a jelly ; filter through linen or cotton cloth, add- ing a part of it first, the remainder while using. But, if you wish for yellow wash, take horseradish leaves, half a pail full ; boil them as if for greens ; filter, and add the juice to the fore- going composition, and it will be a beautiful yellow. OUT-HOUSES AND CELLARS. If these have not been recently cleansed, have them thor- oughly cleaned out and whitewashed. A dirty cellar is an abomination, and the fruitful source of many diseases. Let all your out-buildings have a thorough overhauling and re- pairing. CURLING FLUID FOR THE HAIR. Melt a piece of white beeswax about the size of a filbert kernel or a large pea, in one ounce of olive oil ; to this add one or two drops of otto of roses, or any other perfume. 358 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. TO DRIVE AWAY BEDBUGS. Take best gum camphor, in lumps as large as a walnut ; put each lump in a thin gauze bag, and suspend them to the bedoord, or other parts of the bedstead ; renew the camphor when it has lost its strength. If there are, crevices in the wall or joints of the bedstead they may be filled with a mixture of camphor and hard soap. This remedy, when faithfully ap- plied, has always proved effectual. TO DESTROY FLIES. Ground black pepper and moist sugar, intimately mixed in equal quantities, and diluted with milk, placed in saucers, add- ing fresh milk, and stirring the mixure as often as necessary. TO DRIVE AWAY FLEAS. Sprinkle about the bed a few drops of the oil of lavender, and the fleas will soon disappear. TO POLISH MAHOGANY FURXITERE. Rub it with cold, drawn linseed oil, and polish by rubbing with a clean, dry cloth, after wiping the oil from the furniture. Do this once a week, and your mahogany tables will be so finely polished that hot water will not injure them. The rea- son is this — linseed oil hardens when exposed to the air. and when it has filled all the pores of the wood, the surface be- comes hard and smooth, like glass. TO RENDER BOOTS AND SHOES WATER-PROOF. Take one pint of drying oil, two ounces of yellow wax. two ounces of spirits of turpentine, and half an ounce of Burgundy pitch; melt them over a slow fire, and thoroughly incorporate them by stirring. Lay this mixture on the new shoes or boots, either in the sun or at some distance from the fire, with a MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 359 sponge or brush, and repeat the operation as often as they become dry, until they are fully saturated. The shoes and boots thus prepared ought not to be worn until the leather has become perfectly dry and elastic. They will then be found impervious to moisture, and their durability will be increased. TO KILL WEEDS IN GRAVEL AND BRICK WALKS. Keep them moist with brine a week in the spring, and three or four days in the fall, and it will prevent their growing. TO TEMPER EARTHEN WARE. When new, and before used for baking, put it in cold wa- ter to cover, and heat it gradually until the water boils. It is less likely to crack. TO CLEAN PAINT THAT IS NOT TARNISHED. Take a flannel, and squeeze nearly dry out of warm water, and dip in a little whiting ; apply to the paint, and with a lit- tle rubbing it will instantly remove grease, smoke, or other soil. Wash with warm water, and rub dry with a soft cloth. It will not injure the most delicate color, and makes it look as well as new ; besides, it preserves the paint much longer than if cleaned with soap and water. TO REMOVE LIME" SPOTS. Lime spots on woolen clothes may be completely removed by strong vinegar. The vinegar effectually neutralizes the lime, but does not generally affect the color of the cloth. Dark cloth, the color of which has been completely destroyed, in spots six inches square, has thus had its original color per- fectly restored. 360 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. TO TAKE OUT FRUIT SPOIS. Wet the stain without dipping, and hold the part over a lighted brimstone match, at a proper distance. The sulphur- ous gas soon causes the spots to disappear. TO CLEAN ELACK SILKS. To bullock's gall add boiling water sufficient to make it warm, and with a clean sponge rub the silk well on both sides ; squeeze it well out, and proceed again in like manner. Rinse it in spring water, and change the water till perfectly clean ; dry in the air, and pin it on a table ; but first dip the sponge in glue-water, and rub it on the wrong side ; then dry it be- fore the fire. TO TAKE MILDEW OUT OF LINEN. Rub the mildewed article well with soap ; then scrape upon it some fine chalk, letting that be rubbed well into the cloth ; lay it on the grass ; as it dries, wet it a little, and the mildew will soon disappear. TO CLEAN SILKS. A quarter of a pound of soft soap, a teaspoon full of brandy, and a pint of gin ; mix all well together ; with a sponge or flannel spread the mixture on each side of the silk, without creasing it. Wash it in two or three pails of cold water, and iron on the wrong side when rather wet. TO REMOVE STAINS FROM SILKS. Stains produced by vinegar, lemon juice, oil of vitriol, or other sharp corrosives, may often be removed from silks by mixing a little pearlash with soap-lather, and passing the silk through them. Spirits of hartshorn will also often restore the color. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 361 TO RAISE THE SURFACE OR PILE OF VELVET WHEN PRESSED DOWN. Warm a smoothing iron moderately, and cover it with a wet cloth, and hold it under the velvet; the vapor arising from the heated cloth will raise the pile of the velvet, with the assistance of a rush whisk. TO REMOVE GREASE OR OIL PAINT FROM CLOTH. Moisten it with a few drops of concentrated solution of subcarbonate of potash ; rub the spot between the fingers, and then wash it with a little warm water. ANOTHER WAY. , To remove oil paint, rub the cloth with a bit of flannel dipped in spirits of wine or turpentine. TO STAIN HARPS, VIOLINS, OR ANY OTHER. MUSICAL INSTRUMENT. A Crimson Stain. Take one pound of ground Brazil and boil it in three quarts of water for an hour; stain it, and add half an ounce of cochineal ; boil it again for half an hour gen- tly, and it will be fit for use. If you would have it of the scar- let tint, boil half an ounce of saffron in a quart of water, and pass over the work previous to the red stain. Observe, the work must be very clean, and of air- wood or good syca- more, without blemish. When varnished it will look very rich. * For a Purple Slain. Take a pound of chip-logwood, to which put three quarts of water ; boil it well for an hour ; add four ounces of pearlash and two ounces of indigo, pounded, and ) pu will have a good purple. Jllue Stain. Take a pound of oil of vitriol in a glass bot- tle, in which put four ounces of indigo, and proceed as before directed in dyeing. P 362 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. Green Stain. Take three pints of strong vinegar, to which put four ounces of the best verdigris, ground fine, half an ounce of sap-green, and half an ounce of indigo. TO POLISH VARNISHED FURNITURE. Take two pounds of tripoli, powdered ; put it in an earthen pot, with water to cover ; then take a piece of white flannel ; lay it over a piece of cork or rubber, and proceed to polish the varnish, always wetting it with the tripoli and water. It will be known when the process is finished, by wiping a part of the work with a sponge, and observing whether there is a fair, even gloss. When this is the case, take a bit of mutton suet and fine flour, and clean the work. JAPANESE CEMENT OR RICE GLUE. This cement is made by mixing rice flour intimately with cold water, and then gently boiling it ; it is beautifully white, and dries almost transparent. Papers pasted together by means of this cement will sooner separate in their own sub- stance than at the joining, which makes it useful in the prepara- tion of curious paper articles, as tea-trays, ladies' dressing-boxes, and other articles that require layers of paper to be cemented together. TO RENDER CLOTH WIND AND RAIN PROOF. Boil two pounds of turpentine and one pound of litharge in powder, and two or three pints of linseed oil. The article is to be brushed over and dried in the sun. PERFUMED BAGS FOR DRAWERS. Cut, slice, and mix well together, in the state of very gross powder, the following ingredients : Two ounces of yellow saunders, two ouncos of coriander seeds, two ounces of orris MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 3G3 root, two ounces of calamus aromaticus, two ounces of cloves, two ounces of cinnamon bark, two ounces of dried rose leaves, two ounces of lavender flowers, and one pound of oak sha- vings. When properly mixed, stuff the above into small linen bags, which place in drawers, wardrobes, &c, which are musty or liable to become so. TO MAKE TOUGH BEEF TENDER. To those who have worn down their teeth in masticating poor, old, tough cow beef, we will say that carbonate of soda will be found a remedy for the evil. Cut your steaks, the day before using, into slices about two inches thick ; rub over them a small quantity of soda ; wash off next morning ; cut it into suitable thickness, and cook to notion. The same pro- cess will answer for fowls, legs of mutton, &c. Try it, all who love delicious, tender dishes of meat. TO ESCAPE FROM, OK GO INTO A HOUSE ON FLRE. Creep or crawl with your face near the ground, and although the room be full of smoke to suffocation, yet near the floor the air is pure, and may be breathed with safety. The best escape from upper windows is a knotted rope, but if a leap is unavoidable, then a bed should be thrown out first, or beds pre- pared for the purpose. TO EXTINGUISH A HOUSE ON FIRE. Shut the doors and windows, throw water on the fire in the grate, and then stop up the bottom of the chimney. TO PURIFY WATER FOR DRINKING. Filter river water through a sponge, more or less com- pressed, instead of stone or sand, by which the water is not only rendered more clear, but wholesome. Powder of char- 364 DOMESTIC ECONOMY. coal should be added to the sponge when the water is foul, or fetid. TO TURIFY KIYER, OR MUDDY WATER. Dissolve half an ounce of alum in a pint of warm water, and stirring it about in a puncheon of water from the river, all the impurities will soon settle to the bottom, and in a day or two it will become quite clear. TO CLEAN LOOKING-GLASSES. Keep, for this purpose, a piece of sponge, a cloth, and a silk handkerchief, all entirely free from dirt, as the least grit will scratch the fine surface of the glass. First, sponge it with a little spirits of wine, or gin and water, so as to clean off all spots ; then dust over it powder-blue, tied in muslin ; rub it lightly and quickly off with a cloth, and finish by rubbing it with a silk handkerchief. Be careful not to rub the edges of the frames. TO PRESERVE GILDING, AND CLEAN IT. It is impossible to prevent flies from staining the gilding without covering it; before which, blow off the light dust, and pass a feather or clean brush over it, but never touch it with water; then, with strips of paper, or rather gauze, cover the frames of your glasses, and do not remove till the flies are gone. Linen takes off the gilding and deadens its brightness ; it should, therefore, never be used for wiping it. A good preventive against flies is, to boil three or four leeks in a pint of water, and then with a gilding brush wash over the glasses and frames with the liquid, and the flies will not go near the articles so washed. This will not injure the frames in the least. Stains or spots may be removed by gently wi- ping them with cotton dipped in sweet oil. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. . 3'NER TABLE, 8 CHAPTER I. ON CARVING. General Remarks, 11 An Aitch-bone of Beef, 12 Ribs of Beef, 12 TheSfrloin of Beef, 13 Fillet of Veal, 13 NeckofVeal 13 Breast of Veal, 14 Loin of Veal 14 Shoulder of Veal, 14 Calf's Head 15 Les of Mutton, 15 Shoulder of Mutton, 18 Loin of Mutton, 16 Neck of Mutton, 17 Sera? of Mutton, 17 Saddle of Mutton, 17 Hauncii of Mutton, 17 Fore-quarter of Lamb, 17 Haunch of Venison, 18 Neck of Venison, 18 Pork, 18 Ham IS Boiled Tongue, 19 Roast Pig, 19 Rabbit, 19 Roast Hare 19 Boiled Rabbit 20 Roast Chickens and Turkey, 20 Boiled Fowls 21 Broiled Chickens, 21 Geese 21 Pheasant 22 Guinea Fowl, 22 Partridse 22 Quails, "Reed-Birds, &c, 22 Grouse and Plover 22 Snipe and Woodcock, 22 Wild Duck and Widgeon, 22 Pigeon, 23 FISH. Middle Cut of Salmon, 23 Turbot 24 Cod's Head and Shoulders 24 Haddock, .' 24 Mackerel , 25 butcher's JOINTS. Beef, 25 Veal 26 Pork, 26 Mutton, 27 Venison, 27 To Choose Meats, 28 poultky and game, 29 Fish, 80 Shell Fish, 30 CHAPTER II. SOUPS. General Directions, 32 MEAT SOUPS. White Soup, 34 Gravy Soup, 84 Beef Gravy, 34 Gravv — Clear, 35 BeefSoup, 85 Sago Soup, 86 424 GENERAL INDEX. PAGE. Baked Soup, 86 Curry Soap, 36 Boap and LJouilli, 36 Hessian Soap 37 Maccaroni Soup, 3T French Soap, % • • • 37 Portable Soap, 37 Vermicelli Soup, 33 Mutton Soup 38 Chicken Broil 39 Egg Dumplings for 8onp, 39 Egg Balk for Soup, 39 SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. Pigeon Soup 39 Partridge Soup, 40 Chicken Soup, 40 CalTa Head Soup, 40 PAGE. FISH SOUPS. Eel Soup 41 Clam Soup. 41 Lobster Soup, 42 Oyster Soup, 42 VEGETABLE SOUPS. Vegetable Soup, 42 Cabbage Soup 43 Asparagus Soup, with Green Peas,*. 44 Asparagus Soup — Clear, 44 Hotch Potch, '. 44 Onion Soup, 44 Celery Soup, 44 Bice Soup 45 Clear Pea Soup, 45 Green Pea Soup, 45 Pea Soup, 45 CHAPTER III. BEEF. Obsci rations on Meats, 47 Boast Meats, 49 Boiling 49 Broiling 50 Boast Beef, 50 To Collar Beef, 51 To cook the inside of a Sirloin, 52 Fillet of Beef— Boasted, 52 Alamode Beef 52 Fillet, or Bound of Beef— Spiced, . . 53 Beef Olives 53 Hunter's Beef, 53 Bump Steak— Stewed, 54 Beef Palates 54 Steaks— Broiled 54 Steaks Boiled and Boasted, ... 55 Stewed Beef Steaks, 55 Beef Kidneys — Stewed 55 Cake 56 Heart, 56 Collops, 56 Brisket of Beef— Stewed, 57 Stew of Ox-Cheek, 57 Beef Saunders, 57 A Beef Stew, 58 Beef Hashed, 58 To Dress Beef Tongues, 69 To Stew a Tongue, 59 Beef Sausages, 59 Broth 59 Marrow Bones, 59 Tripe, 60 Smoked Beef, 80 Potted Beef, 01 CHAPTER IV. VEAL. General Observations, 62 The Fillet of Veal 62 Breast of Veal — Forced, 63 Shoulder of Veal, 63 Loi D of Veal — Stewed, 63 Loin of Veal 63 Knuckle of Veal — Stewed, 63 Neck of Veal 64 Veal Cutlets 64 Cutlets — Curried, 64 Veal Pot Pie, 65 Olives of Veal— Eoti, 65 Veal Collops, 88 Calf's Head 66 Calves' Ears, 66 Boiled Veal 67 Calves' Feet, 67 Calves' Feet — Fricaseed, 67 Calf's Heart, 67 Kidney, 67 Liver, 63 CHAPTER V. MUTTON. General Bern arks 69 Leg of Mutton— Boasted, 70 Haunch of Mutton, 69 Boast Leg of Mutton — Boned and Saddle of Mutton, 70 Stuffed, 70 GENERAL INDEX. 425 PAGE. Shoulder of Mutton, 70 Loin of Mutton — Stewed, 71 Breast of Mutton, 71 Alaraode Mutton — A Leg, 71 Mutton Steaks, 71 Chops — Broiled, 72 Chops— Fried, 72 Cutlets, 72 Fillet of Mutton, 73 PAGE. Hash, 73 Hashed Mutton, 73 Mutton like Venison, 73 Hams 74 To Dress Mutton Hams, 74 Mutton Kidneys — Broiled, 74 Sheep's Tongues — Stewed, 74 Irish Stow, 74 CHAPTER VI. LAMB. General Remarks, 7(3 Fore-quarter of Larnb — Koasted, ... 76 To Roast a Leg of Lamb, 76 To Boil a Leg of Lamb,' 77 Stowed Loin of Lamb, 77 To Stew a Breast of Lamb, 77 Lamb Stewed with Peas. 77 Sweetbreads Fricaseed — Brown,... 78 Lamb Chops, 78 CHAPTER VII. PORK. General Remarks, 79 Roast Pig— Served Whole, 79 Roast Pisr. 80 A Le2 CHAPTER X. SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. Observations on Cleaning and Dress- ing Fish 108 Fresh Cod— Boiled, 105 Baked Cod, 105 Broiled Fresh Cod, 106 Crimped Cod, 106 Cod's Head 106 c.d Omelet, 10G Stewed Salt Cod, 107 Codfish Balls 107 Fish Balls 107 Codfish Toast 1<>7 Buttered Codfish 1 8 Plain Boiled Salt Codfish, 103 To Boil Haddocks 103 To Stew Haddocks, 103 Haddock to Broil, 109 Herrings, 109 Fresh Herrintrs -Broiled, 109 Halibut— Stewed HO To Stew Lobsters 110 To Roast Lobsters, 110 Lobster— Cold, 110 Fresh Mackerel— Boiled ill To Broil Fresh Mackerel, Ill Salt Mackerel Ill Scallop Oysters, Ill Boast Oysters 112 Baked, or Scalloped Oysters, 112 Stewed Oysters 112 Stewed Oysters — Another, 112 Oyster Fritters, 113 Fried Oysters, Oysters, Fried Oysters.to garnish Boiled Fish, Pickled Oysters, Oyster Pie Oyster Pancakes, . . • Chowder Fresh Salmon — Boiled, Salmon — Roasted, Collared Salmon, Salmon — Broiled, Smoked Salmon, Bake Shad Broiled Shad, To Boil Shad, Sturgeon — Broiled, Sturgeon — Roasted, Sturgeon Cutlets Eel's Bread Crumbed, Fried Fels, Boiled Fels Stewed Tautog, or Black Fish Tn.ut Trout — Stewed, Turcot Pike and Pickerel, Soft Shell Clams— Stewed Hard Shell Clams— Fried Chowder Fish Salads Fish Force Meat Balls, 113 113 113 113 114 114 114 115 145 116 116 116 116 116 11 r 117 117 117 117 115 113 US 11< 113 119 119 119 119 180 120 120 CHAPTER XI. SAUCES. General Remarks, 121 Anchovy Sauce, .•. 121 j^pple Sauce. 121 Bread Sauce, 121 Bread Sauce — Another 122 Sauce — Brown 122 Caper Sauee for Fish, 122 Cranberrv Sauce, 122 Cod Sauce 123 Cream Sauce, 123 E«g Sauce 128 Fresh Pork Sauce, 128 Garlic Sauce 123 Horseradish Sauce — Hot 124 Lemon Sauce for Boiled Fowls,.... 124 Lemon Sauce for Puddings, 124 Lemon Conserve, ^ 124 Mint Sauce, 125 Lobster Sauce, 125 Mushroom Sauce, 125 Oyster Sauce, 125 Onion Sauce, 126 Sueet Sauce, 126 Pudding Sauce 1J6 Sauee for Wild Fowls, 126 White Sauee 12T Superior Sauce, for PIumi Pod"Wng, 127 Tomato Sauce, for hot or cold Meats, 127 Wine Sauce 1J7 "White Sauce, for Fricasee of Fowls, &c 128 Venison Sauce 128 Farces and Stuffings 123 Force Meat Ingredients, 129 GENERAL INDEX. 427 CHAPTER XII: VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. PAGK General Remarks, 180 Asparagus , . 131 Asperse a La Pois — French Recipe, 181 Beets.. • 132 Broccoli, 132 Green, or Stringed Beans, 132 Celery 133 Cabbage and Cauliflowers 133 Cabbage Salad, and Cold Slaw, .... 133 Red Cabbage, 133 Carrots 134 Stewed Cucumbers, 134 Greens 134 Lettuce 134 1 F t > m i ny, 1 35 Onions, 135 Green Peas 135 Peas Stewed in Cream, 136 How to Cook Potatoes 186 To Boil New Potatoes 136 To Boil Irish Potatoes, 137 Roasted Potatoes, 137 PAGE. Potatoes in Haste, 137 Fried or Broiled Potatoes, 137 Potatoes Glazed 133 Potato Rissoles, 133 Potato Ragout, 135, Porridge, or Soup of Potatoes, 13S To Mash Potatoes, 133 Potato Balls 139 Sweet Potatoes — Baked, 139 Parsnip Fritters, 139 Parsnips, 139 Radishes, 139 Squashes, 140 Green Sweet Corn 140 Seakale U0 Porridge of Turnips, 140 Broiled Mushrooms, 141 Salad 141 Salsify, or Vegetable Oj'ster, ... ... 142 Tomatoes, . . . 142 Tomatoes Raw, 142 Southern Mode of Boiling Rice, 142 CHAPTER XIII. POTTED MEATS. Beef Potted, 144 Beef Potted like Venison 144 Birds Potted — How to Preserve them 145 Cheese Potted 145 Chicken, or Ham Potted, 145 Game of all kinds Potted, 146 Lobsters Potted, 146 Partridge Potted, 146 Pigeons Potted, 147 Vea! Potted, 147 Venison Potted, 14S CHAPTER XIV. PASTE, MEAT, FRUIT, AND FISH PIES, PUDDINGS, TARTS, TART LETS, PUFFS, ETC. General Remarks, 149 Puff Paste, for Patties 150 Very Superior Suet Crust, 150 Paste for Borders of Dishes, 151 Fancy Pastry, 151 Sandwich Pastry 151 Sweet, or Biscuit Crust, 152 Beef Steak Pie 152 Cold Veal, or Chicken Pie, 152 Fish Pie U3 Giblet Pie, 153 Pie Raised, to he Served Hot,... . 153 Pork Pies, to Eat Cold 154 Veal, or Chicken aud Parsley Pie, . . 154 Family Pie Crust, 155 Mince Pie, . 155 Pies, without Meat, 156 Pies. 156 Lemon Mince Pies, 156 Pies, 157 Apple Mince Pies, 157 Pumpkin Pie, 157 Another 153 Squash Pies, 153 Apjde Pie, 153 F>i ieil Apple Pie 15S Currant and Gooseherry Pies, 159 Cranberry Pie, or Tarts, 159 Rhubarb Pie, 159 Apricot Pie 160 Red Sugar Beet Pie, 160 Cocoannt Pie 160 Huckle. or Whortleberry Pie, 160 Tomato Pie 161 Blackberry Pie, . . 161 Cream Pies 161 428 GENERAL INDEX. PACE. Sweet Marlborough Pic, 161 Plain Custard Pie, *. 163 Cherry Pie 162 Lemon Pie 168 Lemon Padding, I'"''- 2 Lemon Tart, 168 Peach Pie 168 Corn Starch Pie, 163 DIKECTIONS FOR PUDDINGS. Baked Apple Pudding 168 Boiled Apple Padding 168 Plain Boiled Indian Pudding, 104 Corn Meal Pudding, 164 Eve's Padding, 164 Plum Pudding 164 English Plum Pudding, 105 Cocoanut Padding 165 Sunderland Padding 165 Custard Pudding— Baked, 165 Apricot Pudding, 105 Batter Pudding 165 Batter Pudding— Boiled 106 Batter Pudding, with or without Sugar 160 Barley Pudding, 166 Bread Padding 166 Plain Bread Pudding— Baked, 167 Economical Pudding, 167 Carrot Padding 167 Custard Pudding — Boiled, 107 Apple Charlotte, 107 Charlotte, 168 Citmn Padding 16S Currant Pudding, 168 Cherry Padding,. 108 Flour Padding 169 Dried Apple Pudding— Boiled, — 100 Jenny Lind Pudding, 109 Lemon Pudding 170 Marrow Padding — Baked, 170 Chicken Padding, 1T0 Mutton Pudding," 170 Muilin Pudding. 171 Oatmeal Pudding, 171 Orange Pudding 171 English Christinas Plum Padding, 171 Potato Pudding 172 Derbyshire Padding 172 Paddings in Haste, 172 Quaking Pudding, 172 Quince Padding, 172 Potato Padding 178 Almond Padding — Boiled, 173 Plum Padding— Boiled, 173 Cream Pndding 173 Custard Pudding 173 Custard Pudding— Boiled, 173 1 tellcate Pice Padding, 171 Roly IN.lv " 174 German Toast 174 PAC7R. Elce Padding, with Currants, 1 74 Ground Bice Podding 175 Bice Pudding with Bruit, 175 Bago Pudding 175 Baet Padding 1 7.3 Sweetmeat Pudding, 170 Tapioca Pudding 170 Treacle Padding 170 Vermicelli Pudding 170 Apple Tapicoa Padding, 177 Minute Pudding, 177 Corn Puddings, 177 Cracker Pudding 177 Apples in Butter 177 Corn Starch Pndding, 178 Summer Snowballs, 178 Sponge Padding 17-^ Biscuit Padding,. 178 Indian Pudding— Baked, 17'.* Spotted Dick 179 Indian Pudding — Boiled, 1 79 Boiling Mush 179 Apple Dumplings, 179 Oxford Dumplings ISO Simple Desserts for Summer ISO Curd Floating Island 1SI Yeast Dumplings, W Lemon Dumplings, 181 Dough Dumplings, 181 Tartlets 181 Apple Tart 1S2 Bird's Nest Pudding, 182 Apricot Tart, 183 Apricot Sweetmeat, for Tarts, 188 CherryTart, 188 Currant Tart, 183 Damson Tart, 1S4 Grape Tart 194 Gooseberry Tart, 181 Pear Tart." 184 Quince Tart 184 Raspberry Tart 1S4 Raspberry Tart, with Cream, 185 Rhubarb Tart 185 Strawberry Tart, l v 5 Tartlets, .' 185 Almond Sweetmeats — Yellow, l*«6 To cut out Patty Cakes, &e 1^0 To Neutralize the Acid in Fruit, Pies, fee 1S7 Oyster Patties 187 Meat Patties 18T Marrow Patties 1S7 Turnovers 1SS Apricot PuflB 1S8 A Mixed Jam for Tarts, 1SS Curd Pufls 188 Pofla » 183 Meringues, 189 GENERAL INDEX. 429 CHAPTER XV. PANCAKES, FRITTERS, MUFFINS, AND WAFFLES. PAGE. Buckwheat Cakes, 190 Flour Pancakes, 190 Cream Pancakes, 191 Pancakes a La Francaise, 191 Indian Griddle Cakes, 191 Apple Fritters 191 Kice Pancakes, 192 Apple Fritters — Excellent, 192 Cream Fritters, 192 Oyster Fritters, 192 Plain Fritters, 192 PAGE. Corn Oysters 193 Apple Fritters 193 Fritters au Blanc, 193 Orange Fritters, 193 Ovster Fritters 194 Muffins 194 Indian Meal Muffins 194 Flour Waffles— Raised, 1 94 Quick Waffles, 195 Rice Waffles, 195 CHAPTER XVI. EGGS AND OMELETS. Esfss— Boiled, 196 Eggs— Poached, 196 To "Dress Eiigs, 197 Scotch Esigs, 197 Omelet, 197 Omelet au Naturel, 197 Onion Omelet, 19S Omelet, with Ham, &c, 193 Omelet Fritters, 19S Omelet Souffle 198 A Simple Sweet Omelet, 199 Apple Souffle, with Rice, 199 CHAPTER XVIII. BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. To make. Butter 200 preserve Butter for Winter, '200 make Yellow Butter in Winter, 201 Freshen Salt Butter, 201 Clarify Butter, 201 Cold Butter for Tea, or Breakfast, ... 201 Melted Butter, without boiling, 202 To make Cheese, 202 The best Cheese in the World, 202 To prepare Rennet, 203 To keep Cheese— English Method,.. 203 Apricot Cheese, 204 Artificial Cheese, 204 Cream, -..204 Cheese Cream and Marmalado, 205 as Iced Butter, 205 Cream, Iced, 205 Damson Cheese, 205 Cheese— Fresh, 206 Fritters, 206 Puffs, 206 Roasted 206 Rice Cheese, 207 Sase Cheese, 207 Cheese Toasted, or Welsh Rabbit,. . 20T Toast, 2d7 Pot Cheese, 207 CHAPTER XVIII. CUSTARDS, CREAMS, ICES, Custards, 203 Apple Custard, 208 Almond Custard, 209 Custards — Boiled, 209 Soft Custards 209 Custards— Baked, 209 Cream Custard, 2 9 Custard— Plain 210 Cherry Custard, 210 Lemon Custard, 210 JELLIES, MARMALADES, ETC. Orange Custard, 210 Rice Custard, without Cream, 211 CREAMS. Apricot Cream, 211 Orange Cream, 211 Ice Cream 211 W hipped Cream, 212 Excellent Cream, 212 Chocolate — Whipped Cream, 212 Cherry Ice Cream, 213 430 GENERAL INDEX. PAGE. Currant Ice Cream, 213 Cream 213 Gooseberry Cream, 213 Lem<>n Ice (roam, 218 Strawberry ('roam 214 Ice Cream, 214 Cream Hasty 214 Snow Cream,. 214 To keep < 'ream 214 Cream an Naturel, 214 Tine Apple Cream ' 215 Raspberry and Currant Cream, 215 Cream Strawberries, 215 Rhenish Cream, 215 Vanilla Cream, 215 Gooseberry Fool, 210 Apple Fool 21G Trifle, 216 [CBS. Icing for Cakes, 217 Another 21S Almond Icing for Bride Cake, 218 Icing for Tarts, 213 Currant lee, 218 Pine Apple !<••• 2 S Fresh Strawberry Ice Cream, 219 Cherry Ice, ..." 219 Currants to Ice, 219 Charlotte Russe 219 Currant Ice Cream, 220 Ices, 220 JELLIES. Apple Jelly— Clear, 220 PACK. Apple Jelly 221 Quince Jelly, '_'•_' I Apricot Jelly, 221 Lemon Jelly 221 Strawberry, Raspberry, and Black- berry Jelly, ". Cranberry, Grape, and Currant Jel- ly 222 Currant Jelly, 222 Cherry Jelly, 228 Moss Jelly,. 228 Calve's Foot Jelly, 228 Another 224 Lemon Jelly 224 Tapioca Jelly, 224 Sago Jelly. . ". 225 Ratafia without Liquor or Syrup,.. 225 Wine Jelly ". 225 Coloring for Jellies, Cakes, &c, .... 226 MARMALADES. Marmalade of Apples 220 Transparent Marmalade 221 Apricot Marmalade, 227 Cherry Marmalade 221 Currant .Marmalade 226 Orange Mai malade, 22S Quince Marmalade £28 Raspberry Marmalade 222 BLANCMANGE. Rice Blancmange 229 Corn Starch Blancmange, 229 Blancmange, 28'J CHAPTER XIX. CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. To Clarify Sugar, Colored Sngars for Ornamenting, .. . Green Sugar, Sugar Paste To Candy Fruit, Ornamental Frosting, Lemon Candy Molasses ( Sandy To Preserve Apricots, Apricots la Brandy To Preserve Peaches Golden Pippins, To Bake Apples \V hole Apples Preserved In Slices, Bottled Asparagus, Barberries Barberries for Tartlets Biscuit of Preserved Fruits, and Sweetmeats, Black Tops Cherries in Brandy, Dried without Sugar Preserved Dry in Bunches, to Candy, to Keep, Jam, 232 Black Currant Jam 239 233 Currant Jam of all Colors 239 233 Currants Preserved 240 288 for Tarts 240 233 White Citron Preserved 240 234 Dried Damson* 240 284 To keep Damsons 241 284 Preserve Fruits for Tarts. Ac.,.. 241 284 Gherkins for Salads, or Pickled, 211 235 Gooseberries Preserved, 241 235 Gooseberry Jain, 242 236 Peach Jam, 236 Grapes Preserved in Clusters, 242 236 Green Gases, . 242 237 Green Gages— Dried, 213 237 Jam 213 237 To keep Oranges or Lemons, for Puddings, 213 237 To Preserve Nectarines, 243 237 Pears— Baked 244 288 to Keep 244 238 Jargonelle 244 288 Preserved 245 239 Peaches — Preserved, 245 239 Plums— Candied 246 239 Preserved, 246 GENERAL INDEX. 431 PAGE. Quinces — Preserved, 246 to Keep 247 Raspberries — To Keep 247 Preserved, 247 Raspberry Jam, 247 Apple Snow, 24S Pine Apples, 248 PAGE. Quinces, for the Table, 248 Rhubarb — Preserved, 248 Siberian Crabs — Preserved, 249 Strawberry Jam. 249 Strawberries — Preserved in Wine,. 249 Preserved Whole,... 249 Tomato Figs, 250 CHAPTER XX. PICKLES. Asparagus, 252 Beans— French, 252 Cabbage— Eed, 252 White, 253 Celery, 253 Cucumbers — Young, 253 East India Pickle, 254 Green Tomato, 254 Lemons, 254 Mushrooms 254 Mushroom Ketchup, 255 Nasturtion •. .. 255 Neat's Tongue, 255 Onions, 256 Mangoes 256 Nasturtions, 257 Peaches, 257 Peppers, 257 Plums— To Pickle like Olives, 257 Plums 258 Quinces, 25S Tomato Ketchup, 25S Walnut Ketchup 258 CHAPTER XXI. CAKES, BUNS, BISCUIT, BREAD, ETC. Requisite Information for Making and Baking Cakes Crust, Short and Rich, Short, Apple Cake, Almond Drops, Small Cakes Icing, Banbury Cakes, Baba, Bride Cake, Another, Breakfast, or Tea Cakes, Hot,. Whigs Diet Bread Butter Cakes, Biscuit of any kind of Fruit, . . Cheesecakes, Another, Cheesecakes — Common, Boston Cream Cakes, Country Cream Cakes, Rich Cream Cake, Cream Cake, Cru mpets, Cup Cake, , Cretin Cup Cake, < • rn Cake, L lieesecake — Apple, , Almond, Citron, Lemon, Orange, Chorry Calces, Cinnamon Cakes, 271 260 Currant Cakes, 271 262 Caraway Cakes, 271 262 Curd Cakes, 271 262 Cookies, 272 262 Crackers 272 263 Butter Crackers, 272 263 Drop Cakes, 272 263 Another, 273 264 Rye Drop Cakes, 273 264 Soda Dousrhnuts 273 265 Doughnuts, 273 265 Doughnuts with Sugar, 274 265 Crullers, 274 266 Frosting for Cake, 275 266 Fruit Cake— Rich, 275 266 Fried Cak«s, 276 266 Family Cake, 276 267 Ginger Snaps, 276 267 Ginger Nuts, 276 267 Gingerbread 277 26S Hard Gingerbread, 277 263 Soft Gingerbread 277 263 Nice Gingerbread 277 263 Gingerbread with Fruit, 278 269 Sugar Gingerbread, 278 269 Gooseberrv Cake, 278 269 Honey Cake 278 269 Indian Breakfast Cakes, 278 269 Indian Light Biscuit, 279 270 Jumbles 279 270 JohnnyCakes, 279 270 Kisses 280 271 LoafCake 280 432 GENERAL INDEX. PAGE. A Lijrht Cake to Bake in Cups, 250 One, Two, Three, Four Cake, 880 Tliin Pound Cake, 2S1 Barnard Cake, 2S1 Lemon Cake 281 Macaroons 2SI Spiced 281 New Year's Cookies* 2S2 Pound Cake 238 Pound Cakes, Plum or Plain, 2S2 A Good Plum Cake, 288 Cider Cake, 288 Rich Plum Cake, 283 Wedding Cake, 284 Queen's Cake, 284 Railroad Cake, 284 Rice Puffs 2S4 Raspberry Cake- 2S4 Pout Cakes, 2S5 Rice Cake 285 Rice Pound Cake 2S5 Savoy Cake 2S5 Sponge Cake , 2SG A Small Sponge Cake, 2S6 Bponge Cake, 2 t >7 Rich Sponge Cake, 2S7 Sugar Drops, 2S7 Cakes, 2S5 Seed Cakes 2>S Shrewsberry Cake 288 Soft Cake in Little Pans, 288 Soda Cake, 2S3 Spice Cake 288 Twelfth. Oake, 289 Tea Cak.-s 289 Cream Tea Cakes, 290 P'ain Tea Cakes 290 Washington Cake, 290 PAOE. Muffins 290 Hard Waffles, 290 Wafers, . . : 291 Ratafias, 291 Buns 291 Bath Buns 292 Buns — Common, 292 Buns— Plum, 292 Seed Puns, 298 Rusk 898 BREAD, BISCUIT, YKA8T, ETC. "Wheat Bread 293 Excellent Bread 291 Boston Brown Bread, 295 Premium Bread, 295 Brown Graham Bread, 296 Rich Corn Bread ?96 Boston Bye and Indian Bread, 896 Saso Bread, Diet Bread 297 Potato Bread Pice Uivad 297 Rye Bread 897 Battered Loaves, 898 French Rolls Butter Biscuits.. Soda Biscuits Potato Biscuits '_'»'.! Baker's Rolls 5 9 Tea Rusks 300 Bally Lunn, Yeast 800 Milk Yeast 3d Potato Yeast Yeast Yeast Cakes, 302 Berry Shortcake 802 CHAPTER XXII. COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, COCOA. Coffee S03 A Substitute for Cream for Coffee,.. 804 Coffee to Roast, 304 Milk, 305 Cream, 305 Au Creme 305 to give the Favor of Vanilla,. 805 Ice a Lltalienne, 305 Coffee Frothed, or Whipped 30- : Jelly 3- G Chocolate, Drops Bon-Bons, 807 Tea, »)7 Cream, 308 Ice 308 CHAPTER XXIII. HOME MADE WINES. Apple Wine, 809 Apricot Wine, 810 Balm Wine 310 Birch Wine, 311 Blackberry Wine, 311 Cherry Wine, 812 Clary Wine 819 Currant Wine 813 Damson Wine, 814 Elder Wine, 814 GENERAL INDEX. 433 PAGE. Ginger Wine 314 Gooseberry Wine, 314 Grape Wine 315 Mountain Wine, 315 Parsnip Wine, 315 PAGE. Rasin Wine 316 Raspberry Wine, 316 Walnut Wine 316 Raspberry Vinegar, 317 CHAPTER XXIV. LIQUORS, BEVERAGES, ETC. Cherry Brandy, 318 Capillaire 313 Bippocraa 319 Lemonade, 319 Mead 319 Frontinac, 320 Sack, 320 Noveau 320 Orangeade 321 Punch 321 Milk, 321 Ratafia of four Fruits, 321 Shrub 822 Currant Shrub, 322 Lemon Shrub 322 Wholesome Beverage, 322 Spring Beer .". *. 323 Ginger Beer, 323 W h ite Spr uce Beer, 324 Harvest Drink 324 Cream Soda, 324 CHAPTER XXV. PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. Apple Water, 325 Egg Gruel, 325 Arrow Root, 825 A Nourishing Jelly, 32G Beef Tea, 326 Toast and Water 326 Waters for Cooling Draughts, 326 Water Gruel 826 Milk Porridge, 327 Wine Whev 327 Chicken, Beef, or Veal Broth, 327 Hot Leinouade, 328 Rice Gruel, 328 Eire: Cream, 328 Caudle, 828 The Cook's Table of Weights and Measures, 329 CHAPTER XXVI. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. Blacking. 330 To know good Flour, 380 Clean Decanters, 831 Cleaning Floor Cloths, 831 Good Shaving Soap, 831 To Keep the Hands Soft, 331 Prevent Iron Rusting, 331 Clean Turkey Carpets, 332 Clean Water Casks, 332 Detect Whiting or Chalk in Flour 332 A Substitute for White Oil Paint,.. 332 To take Smell from Fresh Paint, . . . 333 Cement for Iron Ware, 333 A cheap and durable Cement, 333 Black Ink, 333 Beeswax, 334 Fences, 334 Hard Cement for Seams, 334 To clean China, 335 clean Plate 335 clean Oil Paintings, 335 Economy in Fuel, 335 s Good Vinegar, 336 Cider Vinegar, 336 To Blacken Stone Chimney-pieces, . 336 Tracing Paper, 336 Cement for Iron Flues, 337 To Extract Marking Ink, 337 Prevent cold Feet in Bed, 337 Economical use of Nutmeg, ... 337 To Extinguish a Fire, 338 Frost-bitten Fruits and Vegetables, 338 To Prevent Teakettles coating with Lime, 338 Furniture Polish 338 To make Hard Water Soft, 338 Herbs for Drying, 339 To Clarify Honey, 339 Separate WXx from the Comb, . . 340 Prevent Ink from Freezing, 340 Make Stair Carpets Last, 340 Cold Soap, 340 Soap 340 To Sew Stiff Cloth Easily, 340 28 434 GENERAL INDEX. paor. To clean Knives, 841 Bra-s ami Copper Cooking Utensils, 341 To Relieve the Breath from Onions, 341 Essences, 341 Butter 841 To Preserve Came in Hot Weather, 341 Russian Method of Preserving Fish, 342 Starch. 342 White Satin 342 To elean Gold or Silver Lace, 342 Remove Rust from Steel, 342 Black Ball, 342 Cement for Corked Bottles 343 To Prevent Mould in Books, Ac.,.. 343 Destroy Ants 343 For Boiling Rats 344 To keep BugB from Vines, 344 Soap 344 Isinglass, 344 Iron Spots on Marble, 344 Ink Spots .. 846 Offensive Smells, 345 To Preserve Eggs, 345 Perfume Linen, 345 Rats and Mice 346 To Restore Stale Beer, 346 Rice Milk 346 To take Stains out of Silk 346 Extract Grease from Silks, Ac.,. 846 A Substitute for Milk or Cream,. . . 347 To take Milk from Cream, 347 Preserve Milk, 847 Ventilation, 347 Composition for Colored Drawings, 343 A Varnish to Color Baskets, 843 Court Plaster 34S To Renew Bread and Cake 349 Preserve Cheese from Insects,.. 349 Blue Ink, 850 Red Ink 350 Indelible Ink, 350 Hard Soap 850 To make Calicoes Wash well, 851 Fire and Water-proof Cement, '•">! To Prevent Moths, 351 The Bed Ant, 851 Utility of Nettles Oseful Knife-hoard, To Preserve Flowers in Water 352 keep a Stove Bright, Whiten the Hands 852 Remove Marks from a Table,. . 858 Clean Brass Ornaments, Mend Crockerv, 858 Petrify Wood, 858 Stop a Leak, 85 1 354 • heap Lemon Flavor, 854 To clean Kid Gloves, 354 Wash Woolens, 354 A Varnish for Glass To Give Luster to Silver 855 leather Ohder-waistcoata, . German silver 855 Windsor Soap, 355 PAOB To Bleach Linen 356 To Restore Linen that has been Stained 356 To take Stains from Mahogany 356 Restore colors taken out by Acids 357 Make Whitewash '. 357 Out-houses and Cellars 357 Ourling Fluid f >r the Hair, To Drive away Bedbugs 1 destroy Flie Drive away Fleas, 353 Polish Furniture Render Boots and Shoes Water- proof, 853 Kill Weeds in Gravel. U Raise the Pile of Velvet 861 Remove Grease from Cloth, 861 Stain Harp Strings 361 Polish Varnished Furniture, ... Japanese Cement, To Pender Cloth Rain-proof, 362 Perfumed Ba^s 862 To Make Tough Beef Tender Escape from a House on Fire.. Extinguish a Fire 363 Purify Water for Drinking Purify Muddy Water " 864 Clean Looking- 864 Preserve Gilding i '■ an Lamps Directions for Carpets, Bff5 To keep Silk Sweep Carpets 366 Cheap Carpeting 307 To Fasten the Handles of Knives and Forks ■■'•■:: Night Chairs, 867 Tea, Swallow's Nest,.- . I Borax Washing, Recipe, Washing made Easy 868 To clean Harness 869 Protect Children from Burning Exercise after Meals, 870 To keep Hops 370 Volatile Soap for Removing Grease, Ac, B70 To make wholesome Table Beer... B70 Prevent Beer growing Flat, HTl Clean Bed Ticks. 871 Prevent Lamps Smoking, 871 Cure Pork 871 Cure Qams— Virginia, 871 Beef, Smoke Hams, p Hams 878 Remove Flies, 373 GENERAL INDEX. 435 PAGE. RULES FOR COLORING. General Directions, 374 Sky Blue, 874 Lilac, 874 Black, 374 Lemon 375 Koyal Purple, 375 Slate 875 Scarlet, 375 PAGE. A Bright Madder, 876 Green, 376 Straw Color, and Yellow, 376 Nankin Color, „ 377 Rose Color, 377 To Dye Straw Bonnets Black, 377 Dye White Gloves Purple, 877 Bleach Straw Hats, 378 CHAPTER XXVII. THE ORCHARD, To Prune Trees 379 Prevent Gummin* in Fruit Trees 879 Destroy Insects 8S0 Renovate old Apple Trees, 3S0 Preserve Roots, 380 Cultivate Rhubarb, 881 Hive Bees 3S1 Make Hens Lay Perpetually,.. . 3S2 For Fattening Hens, 3S2 To Destroy the Bee Miller, 382 Preserve Bees from "Worms. &c, 382 "Wash for Fruit Trees ' 3S2 To Destroy Caterpillars, 383 GARDEN, ETC. To Preserve Flower Seeds, 383 Keep Grapes, 388 Preserve Peaches, 384 Keep Cranberries, 384 Preserve Carrots, Parsnips, &c, 384 Preserve Seeds, 335 Destroy Moss on Trees, 385 Drive Bugs from Vines, 3S5 Keep Rose Bags from Grape Vines, 385 Increase the quantity of Cream, 3S5 Mildew on Gooseberries, 386 To Keep Apples Fresh a Year, .... 386 CHAPTER XXVIII. MEDICINAL RECIPES, ETC. Cautions in Visiting Sick-rooms, . . . 387 For Children Troubled with Worms 337 Fits caused by Worms, 387 Foul Teeth 387 To Clean Teeth, 3S3 Make the Teeth White, 3S8 Ward's Paste for the Piles, 3S8 Cataplasm to Hasten Suppuration, . 339 To Prevent Colds in Children,. . . 389 A Simple Cure for the Croup, 389 Sore Throat, 390 Cough Syrups, 390 For "a Cousjh, 390 Children's Coughs, 391 To Prevent Contagion, 391 Volatile Liniment, 391 To Cure a Wen, 391 Treatment of Measles, 392 To Prevent the Hair from Falling out 392 Starch Injection, ... 392 White Bean Poultice 392 A Simple Cure for Dysentery 392 For Summer Complaints, 393 To Cure a Felon, 393 Cure for Headaches, 393 Colds 393 Colds in the Head, 394 Sape Tea, "04 Nose Bleedinsr, 394 To kill Insects in the Ear, 894 For having Swallowed a Wasp, .... 395 Corns, 395 To Prevent the Lock-jaw, 395 Arnica for Bruises, &c., 895 For a Sprain, 895 Preservation of the Teeth, 396 To Remove Scurvv from the Teeth, 396 The Teething of Children, 396 Cure for Cancer, 397 Poison of Rattlesnakes, 397 Tincture for Diseased Gums, 397 Mad Doijs— A Preventive 397 To Prevent Wounds Mortifying, .. . 393 Cure Poison on the Hands, 898 Shortness of Breath, 393 Relief for Asthma 393 Gargle for Sore Throat,, , 398 Balsam of Honey, 399 Simple Mixture for Bowel Com- plaints, 399 For a Burn, 399 Salve for Bruises, 399 Opodeldoc, 400 Cure for the Piles 400 For Small Cuts and Wounds. 400 Advantages of Bathing, 400 Dyspeptic Lye, 401 Sir A. Cooper's Chilblain Liniment, 401 Scald Head in Infants, 401 436 GENERAL INDEX. PAGB. Colombo Root and Ginger, 401 A Simple Medicine for IK-spepsia,. 402 For the Quinsy, 402 Whooping Cough, 402 Another 403 I Plaster for a Cough, 403 Godfrey's Cordial, 4 3 Precautions against Consumption,. 403 Itemed; for having drank too much Cold Water 403 For Ajrue and Fever, 404 the Diarrhea 4i>4 Horseradish for Hoarseness, 404 For Indigestion, 404 Bronchitis 405 Turnip Syrup for a Cold 406 Foreign Bodies in the Throat, 405 Tincture of Rhubarb, 406 of Ginger, 406 Fumigating Powder, 406 Itch 406 Rheumatism 406 The Shower-bath, 407 Dr. Boerhaave's Rules, 407 POISONS AND THEIR ANTIDOTES. Acids 407 Alcohol, 408 Alkalies ... 408 Ammonia, 408 A rsenic, 408 Belladonna, or Night Henbane, 40S Charcoal, 408 Corrosive Sublimate, 408 Creosote, 408 Lead 4 9 Mushrooms, 409 Nitrate of Silver (Lunar Caustic), . . 409 Nitrate of Potash, or Saltpetre, 409 Opium, or Laudanum, 4n9 Oxalic Acid 409 Prussic Acid 4 Gooseberries and Currants 420 Strawberries, 420 Cucumbers, ISO Tea 420 Coffee, Chocolate, 4J1 THE WIFE SLAYER AND HIS VICTIMS! HENRY fill. AID HIS SIX WIVES. A New and Interesting Work by H. W. Herbert. COMPRISING BIOGRAPHIES OF Henry the Eighth of England, Anne of Cleves, Married, 1540; Repudiated, 1540. Katherine Howard, Married, 1540; Beheaded, 1541. ' Katherine Parr, Married, 1543; Died, 1548. Katherine of Arragon, Married 1509 ; Repudiated, 1533. Anne Boleyn, Married, 1533; Beheaded, 1536. Jane Seymour, Married, 1536 ; Died, 1537. Portraits of Henry Vm. and each of his Wives, 441 pp, 12mo., Price $1 25. ♦ NOTICES OF THE PRESS. This a lively and highly entertaining historical narrative of the reign of one of the most marked "fall the British sovereigns. — Detroit Inquirer. Grand, gloomy, tender, picturesque, exciting, sad. and true to fact, as well as true to human nature. — Sunday Courier. The life and times of Henry VIII. are subjects of more interest and importance, not only to the people of Ensland. but to all men everywhere, than perhaps any other por- tion of British history. — People's Organ. A happy medium betwixt the stately dignity of history, and the extravagance of ro- mance. Strict historic truth is gilded with the graces of fancy — Detroit Free Press. Mr. Herbert is a novelist of the historic school. He lias here a subject better than fic- tion; for no romancer ever conceived sue!) a character and destiny as tiiat of the young and chivalrous Prince of England, turned CaHph. and accomplishing a religious revolu- tion, and raising himself to the supreme ecclesiastical authority, in the midst of a life of cruelty, lust, and rapine, that ha^ no parallel in eiviiiz-d history — Albany Atlas. Mr. Herbert has scarcely a superior as a historian. He is thorough and searching, dis- playing, at -every point, a deep study of his subject, and a strict regard For truih and justice: while his style is such as to render his histories attractive to (he popular class of readers. We believe that one of the best eit'ts a historian can possess, is to be able to interest the popular mind, without descending from the true standard of literary excel- lence. In this respect Mr. Herbert is remarkably fortunate. — OhrvsHati freeman. This is really one of the most valuable works which has heen issued from the pres< for a twelvemonth. It is written in a good-natured, fiction-like style, and yet all the histor- ical facts are carefully preserved. — Boston Dispatch. This work is produced in superior style: the engravings of Henry and his Six Wives are in the best style of art. The highest praise that we can otter to the author of this work, is to say that Mr. Herbert lias excelled himself; the style and manner should se- cure it great popularity, and it is evident that the author has spared no pains in his re* searches, to make the work a truthful and reliable one. We cordially recommend its pe- rusal to the reading public — Saturday Evening Mail. Scott has thrown around few of his female characters so much charm as Herbert in- vests the "Six Wives" of the "most uxorious of husbands" — N~. Y Daily News. This is no fiction. It is simply history of a peculiar and interesting period, compiled from the best authorities; and to all students of English history, and especially to all lovers of history who have not the leisure nor the opportunity to do more than read one oi more histories, the present volume will be of peculiar interest. — Sunday Dispatch. MILLER, ORTOfl & MULLIGAN, Publishers, 25 Park Row, New York, and 107 Genesee-st., Auburn. floks for ftong Rabies* »♦• I. WOMAN'S MISSION. Gift Book for Young Ladies. Or Woman's Mission; being Familiar Letters to a Young Lady on her Amusements, Employments, Studies, Acquaintances, male and female, Friendships, lv-. III. WHAT WOMAN MAY AND SHOULD BE. Young Lady's Book. Or, Principles of Female Education, by Rev. Wm. Hosmer, frontis- piece on steel, 301 pp. 12mo., Muslin, 75 cents. CONTENTS. 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