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An 
 
 Archaeological 
 
 &A Diary of a Trip to the Ancient 
 llicp Art-Centres of Greece, Asia 
 
 Minor, the /Egean Islands and 
 • .1 ^ Sicily. 
 
 in the 
 Levant 
 
 By Gustav H. Schwab 
 
 You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red 
 books, if they are not rubbed out ; for I conclude you 
 have not Irufted everything to memory, which is ten 
 times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on 
 or near the spot is worth a cartload of recollection. 
 
 — Gray 'i letters. 
 
 Printed for Private Distribution 
 
 Copyright, 1904, by Gustav H. Schwab 
 
^ 
 
 \^ 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 
 APR ic iyu5 
 
 COPY e. 
 
Introduction 
 
 N THE Fall of this year a number of those interested in studying the latest 
 discoveries made in the ancient art centres of Greece, the islands of the Aigean 
 and the Greek Colonies of Asia Minor, joined in undertaking an excursion to 
 these classical regions. S. S. "Schleswig," of the North German Lloyd, was 
 chartered, and Dr. Wiegand, Director-General of the North German Lloyd, 
 who was the originator of the plan, assumed the task of supervising the necessary 
 work of preparation for the excursion. With the valuable advice and aid of Dr. Schrader, 
 Director of the German Archaeological Institute of Athens, and of Dr. Wiegand, Archaeological 
 Attach^ of the German Embassy at Constantinople, who is now conducting the excavations at 
 Miletus, in Asia Minor, an interesting programme was laid out. Both Dr. Schrader and 
 Dr. Wiegand kindly consented to accompany the cruise and to explain to the participants the 
 various places of interest visited (Dr. Schrader conducting the party in Greece, and Dr. Wiegand 
 in the yEgean and in Asia Minor), a feature that materially added to the interest and 
 instructiveness of the cruise. The programme was the following: 
 
 Leaving Trieste on October 3rd, the steamer was to call at Corfu; Katakolo, whence 
 Olympia was to be visited; Itea, the port for Delphi; Corinth, whence the party was to proceed 
 to Athens by rail, the steamer meeting them again at Piraeus; the islands of Santorin, Candia 
 and Rhodos; Miletus; Smyrna, whence Ephesus was to be visited, and Constantinople. Then, 
 returning to Greece, the steamer was to call at Nauplia for the purpose of visiting Mykenae 
 and Tiryns, and was then to stop at Malta, calling at ports in Sicily, and finally landing the 
 participants at Genoa, where the cruise was to end. 
 
 I accompanied the cruise with my son, Gustav Schwab Jr., and believing that an account of 
 the voyage may be of interest, have prepared my diary for private distribution among my 
 relatives and friends in this country. 
 
 The illustrations are partly from views taken b}^ my son and partly from photographs acquired 
 at the various points visited. 
 
 /t-o^^Ax;^ '^ - tJC^OiAj-giA^^^^ 
 
 New York, November 23, 1904. 
 
An Archaeological Cruise in the Levant 
 
 It is a melancholy of mine own, 
 compounded of niany sim])les, extracted from many objects, and indeed the sundry 
 contemplation of my travels, in which my often rumination wraps me in a most humor- 
 ous sadness. 
 
 — Shakespeare, "As You Like It." 
 
 Trieste, October 3, 1904. 
 EAVING Venice on Sunday evening, October 2, by a so-called express train, 
 which made famous progress as far as the Austrian frontier, but, after reaching 
 Austrian territory, degenerated into a go-as-you-please arrangement of the 
 most exasperating description, we arrived at Trieste at midnight, an hour 
 and a half late. In the morning, which opened with a blue sky and brilliant 
 sunshine, we looked from our hotel windows out upon the blue Adriatic. In the 
 foreground was the harbor of Trieste, showing many evidences of active life and traffic. Scores of 
 ocean steamers were anchored in the harbor or moored alongside the quays, which are now being 
 extended by the Austrian government, at large expense, to accommodate the growing trade of the 
 Empire's greatest seaport. Trieste is situated at the foot of a high range of hills, which surround 
 
it on the north, northwest and northeast, forming an amphitheatre in which the city is the orchestra 
 and the Adriatic Sea the stage. The houses and streets of the city ascend in terraces upon the 
 sides of the foot-hills. Not- 
 withstanding its apparently 
 well-protected position, the 
 north wind sweeps down upon 
 the city with great force, as 
 we discovered later in the 
 day after our arrival. This 
 wind, known as the bora, 
 blows with great violence and 
 in occasional gusts that show 
 no respect for the wanderer 
 and promptly remove his 
 head-gear if it is not well 
 attached. 
 
 Gus and I boarded the 
 "Schleswig" toward noon, 
 after having made some final 
 purchases and financial 
 arrangements, and found 
 about twenty of our ship's 
 
 company on board. We are expecting the balance, some seventy-five, this evening by special 
 train from Vienna. On their arrival, the steamer will cast off and proceed on her voyage. 
 
 PLAYING SHUFFLEBOARD 
 
 • A wet sheet and a flowing sea, 
 A wind that follows fast 
 And fills the white and rustling sail 
 And bends the gallant mast. 
 
 — Allan Cunningham. 
 
 At Sea, October 4, 1904. 
 
 The bora blowing down from the hills on the north of Trieste was so strong last night, after 
 
 the arrival of the special train from Vienna with the balance of our ship's company, that it 
 
 seemed to the captain too risky to pass out of the harbor in the darkness. We therefore 
 
 remained moored to the quay 
 all night and did not sail 
 until 11.30 this morning, when 
 the steamer cast off. The 
 captain made a detour to the 
 west after clearing the break- 
 water, to give the passengers 
 a view of Miramar, the sea- 
 side palace of the unfortu- 
 nate Emperor Maximilian of 
 Mexico. This palace is beau- 
 tifully located on the water's 
 edge, and is a fine building in 
 the Norman style, built of 
 light-colored stone, which 
 forms a fine contrast against 
 the dark-green background 
 of trees in the park around 
 it. The steamer then turned 
 to the south, and, running 
 
 OUR COSY QUARTERS OX THE "SCHLESWIG' 
 
before the wind, skirted the mountainous coast of Istria, passing many picturesque towns 
 and villages on the cliffs and hills high above the sea. Near one of these sea-towns, Pirano, was 
 fought the naval battle in which the combined forces of the Genoese, of the Pisans and of the 
 Emperor Barbarossa were defeated by the Venetians under the Doge Ziani in the year 1177. 
 Another historic point passed on the Dalmatian coast after leaving Istria was Lissa, where 
 the Austrian Admiral TegethofTF defeated the Italians in 1860. 
 
 The great Ulysses started from his sleep 
 .■\nd sat upright, discoursing to himself; 
 "Ah me! upon what regions am I thrown? 
 What men are here, — wild, savage and unjust, 
 Or hospitable, and who hold the gods 
 In reverence? There are voices in the air, 
 Womanly voices, as of nymphs that haunt 
 The mountain summits, and the river-founts. 
 And the moist, grassy meadows." 
 
 — Homer, Odyssey, Book I '/ 
 — Bryants Translatiou . 
 
 Corfu, Greece, October 6, 1904. 
 
 At 6 a.m. to-day the steamer entered the narrow passage between the island of Corfu and 
 the mainland (Albania). On both sides the coast is very rugged and mountainous. While the hills 
 on the island are dotted with plantations of olive trees and vineyards, and with towns and 
 villages, the Albanian mountains on the other side of the strait show little or no cultivation, 
 and but very few settlements. The city of Corfu opened to the right on the shore of a 
 deep bay, the "fortezza vecchia," or "old fort," jutting out on a bold promontory at the 
 
 VIEW OF MIR.V.MAR 
 

 THE STEAM PINNACE AND HER CONVOY 
 
 southeast side of the bay. To the north the mountains of Corfu rise to a considerable 
 
 height, while far to the east, across the blue water, the grey range of Albanian Moun- 
 tains forms a picturesque background. 
 
 Corfu was known to the ancient Greeks 
 
 as the Island of the Phaeacians, on which the 
 
 wandering Odysseus was cast by the storm, 
 
 and on which he was hospitably received 
 
 by Nausikaa, and her father, King Alkinoos. 
 At 8 a.m. the steamer dropped her anchor 
 
 in the harbor, the steam pinnace and four 
 
 boats were in the water in a jiffy, and the 
 
 passengers embarked in the boats by the 
 
 companion-ladders on each side, twenty-five 
 
 in each boat. The pinnace towed the boats 
 
 in two rows, two boats in a row, to the quay, 
 
 where the passengers disembarked and found a number of carriages waiting for them. 
 
 These carriages took the party through the rather uninviting city out into the open country, 
 
 past vineyards and groves 
 of olive trees in which the 
 women were working and the 
 men seemed to be idly look- 
 ing on, if they were not sit- 
 ting in the numerous wayside 
 taverns we passed. Groups of 
 peasants passed us on the 
 road, the men generally com- 
 fortably seated on donkeys, 
 and the women trudging 
 along on foot with bundles on 
 their heads. Very little work 
 seemed to be under way, and 
 the population generally made 
 rather an unfavorable impres- 
 sion, out of harmony with the 
 beautiful scenerj' in which the 
 island abounds. 
 The road ascended in many windings to the Achilleion, the palace built by the Empress 
 
 of Austria, on a high hill above the sea. The gardens of the palace are well worth seeing, 
 
 GARDEN' OF THE ACHILLEION, CORFU 
 
 ISLAND OF PONTIKONISI. CORFU 
 
chiefly on account of the magnificent views they afford of the surrounding country and of the 
 sea. Many of the works of art that formerly adorned the gardens have been removed since the 
 
 Empress' tragic death. The palace 
 itself is of no interest, and the paint- 
 ings and sculptures it contains are 
 mediocre. 
 
 From the Achillcion the carriages 
 proceeded to the Kanoniki, a point 
 on the coast from which there is a 
 fine view of the small rocky island of 
 Pontik6nisi, known as the island or 
 rock into which the furious Posei- 
 don transformed the Phseacian vessel 
 that carried Odysseus to Ithaka. The 
 island is also known as the subject 
 of one of Bcecklin's most powerful 
 paintings. 
 
 After lunch in Corfu, the pilgrims 
 
 were conveyed by boat along the 
 
 coast to the island of Pontikonisi and then returned to the steamer, which sailed in the glory 
 
 of a beautiful sunset, the mountains of Albania in the distance touched with pink, and the nearer 
 
 hills of Corfu glowing with a purple hue. 
 
 VALLEY OF THE ALPHEIOS, OLYMPL\ 
 
 Eure Tempel lachten gleich Palhsten, 
 Euch verherrlichte das Heldenspiel 
 An des Isthmus kronenreichen Festen, 
 Und die Wagen donnerten zum Ziel. — 
 
 Schon geschlumgen, seelenvolle Tanze 
 Kreisten um den prangenden Altar, 
 Eure Schlafe schmiickten Siegcskranze, 
 Kronen euer duftend Haar. 
 
 — Schiller, "Die Goiter Gricchenlands." 
 
 Katakolo, Olympia, Greece, October 7, 1904. 
 
 The steamer anchored in this quiet little harbor of the Peloponnesos, outside the small 
 breakwater, at 7 a. m., and at 8.15 the passengers were promptly conveyed to the quav by the 
 pinnace and her convov of 
 four boats. A little train of 
 cars was drawn up along the 
 quay, in which we embarked 
 and rattled slowly along 
 through a rather monotonous 
 country to Pyrgos, where we 
 alighted and walked to 
 another station, whence 
 another train was to take us 
 to Olvmpia. Why one railroad 
 does not connect with the 
 other no man seemed to know. 
 The country, after leaving 
 Pyrgos, became more inter- 
 esting; extensive vinej^ards 
 bordered the railroad on either 
 hand, and on both sides hills 
 arose, with here and there a 
 
 THE SITE OF THE PAL.tESTRA, 0LYMPL\ 
 
COLUMNS OF THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS, OLYMPIA 
 
 town or village on their sides, the slopes and fields dotted with trees. At Olympia, Dr. Schrader, 
 who had prepared us for the sights we were to see by an excellent illustrated lecture delivered in 
 the dining-room of the steamer on the previous evening, conducted us through the excavations 
 originally begun by Professor Curtius and continued by his assistants and successors at the 
 expense of the German government. 
 
 The site of the Olympian games and of the National Temple of Greece has been entirely 
 covered by a mass of sand and gravel to a depth of from fifteen to twenty feet during the last 
 fifteen hundred years, through inundations of 
 the rivers Kladeos and Alpheios, and through 
 soil washed down from the hill of Kronos, 
 immediately adjoining the sacred precinct 
 on the north. 
 
 The country around Olympia is charming, 
 the hills covered with small pine trees and 
 other growths, and the excavations lie in the 
 beautiful green valley of the Alpheios, the 
 course of which river has been diverted by 
 several successive layers of sand and other 
 material. Our first visit was made to the 
 Palsestra, in which the contestants prepared 
 themselves and practiced for the games. Little 
 is left of this structure except the founda- 
 tions, some traces of walls and parts of tile flooring. The Philippeion, a round structure, of 
 which the marble steps still exist, leading up to what was formerly a circle of eighteen columns, 
 was erected by Philip II of Macedon about 336 B. C, and contained statues of the founder 
 and his house. The Heraion, probably the oldest known temple in Greece, the sanctuary 
 of Hera, still contains the lower parts of nearly all its columns. In this temple the Hermes 
 of Praxiteles was found in a comparatively well-preserved condition, which is attributed 
 
 to the fact that, although the 
 statue was thrown down from 
 its pedestal in the temple by 
 the Christians, it soon became 
 covered by the clay of which 
 the upper part of the walls 
 of this temple were construct- 
 ed, and which was washed 
 down from the walls of the 
 temple after the wooden roof 
 had been destroyed. 
 
 The Temple of Zeus, once 
 the greatest national sanctu- 
 ary of the Greeks, now pre- 
 sents a remarkable appear- 
 ance, as it was destroyed by 
 an earthquake which threw 
 down all the columns of the 
 south side in such regular 
 order that the dies, or pieces composing the columns, and the capitals, originally on top of 
 the columns, now lie in uniform rows at right angles from the side of the temple like pieces 
 of money in a row, one partly resting on the other. It is desired by Dr. Schrader to re-erect 
 one or two of these columns, in order to convey an idea of the third dimension of the 
 temple, the vertical, as only the other two dimensions, the length and the width, can now 
 be appreciated. Through the generosity of one of the gentlemen of our party, the means have 
 been provided to carry out this plan. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS, OLYMPIA 
 
 10 
 
l:\ 1 KAN'CE TO STADION', OLV.MPIA 
 
 The cella that once contained Phidias' celebrated statue of Zeus of Olympia can still be 
 
 distinguished in its outlines. The statue itself, constructed of ivory and gold, and forty feet in 
 
 height, described as one of the wonders of 
 the ancient world, is said to have been 
 removed to Constantinople and there to have 
 perished. 
 
 The entrance to the stadion, where the 
 national games took place, with a cov- 
 ered way, the arch of which is partly intact, 
 has been excavated; but the stadion itself, 
 some six hundred feet in length, is still 
 buried, and, as excavations have ceased, will 
 probably remain in its present condition for 
 some time to come. The Treasuries, small 
 temples erected by the various states of 
 Greece to preserve their votive offerings, 
 contain little of interest. 
 
 The Museum, situated near the ruins, was 
 
 built by a wealthy Athenian, and contains the figures or fragments of the pediment of the 
 
 Temple of Zeus, discovered during the work of 
 
 excavation. The sculptures of the eastern 
 
 pediment represent the preparations for the 
 
 chariot race of Pelops with Enomaos. In the 
 
 middle is the erect figure of Zeus. On one 
 
 side of the god appears Pelops with Hippo- 
 
 daneia, the daughter of Enomaos, and on the 
 
 other side the figure of Enomaos and that 
 
 of his wife. A group of four horses follows 
 
 on either side with charioteers and other 
 
 figures. A fine figure of Nike, also exca- 
 vated in Olympia, is contained in the col- 
 lection, and in a room in the rear stands 
 
 the celebrated Hermes of Praxiteles, one 
 
 of the finest and best-preserved statues 
 
 of antiquity, holding the infant Dionysos on his left arm. 
 
 MUSEUM, OLYMPIA 
 
 GREEKS BY THE WAYSIDE 
 
 Schone Welt, wo bist du ? — Kehre wieder, 
 Holdes Bliithenalter der Natur! 
 Ach, nur in dem Feenland der Lieder 
 Lebt noch deine fabelhafte Spur. 
 Ausgestorben trauert das Gefilde, 
 Keine Gottheit zeigt sich meinem Blick, 
 Ach, von jenem lebenwarmen Bilde 
 Blieb der Schatten nur zuriick. 
 
 — Schillei;"Die Goiter Griechenlands." 
 
 Itea, Delphi, Greece, October 8, 1904. 
 After the return of the ship's company to the 
 steamer, the latter left the harbor of Katakolo, 
 and, turning into the Gulf of Corinth, anchored 
 off the small town of Itea early in the morning. On 
 landing, we found ourselves in a beautiful bay on 
 the north shore of the Gulf of Corinth, the bay sur- 
 rounded by high mountains on the northeast and 
 
 11 
 
THE "SHINING CLIFFS." DELPHI 
 
 west, and to the south, across the Gulf, the greyish-blue mountains of the Peloponnesos. 
 A few carriages, as many as pould be procured in that part of the country, were in readiness 
 for the ladies and those unable or unwilling to ride. The large majority of the pilgrims took to 
 donkeys or mules, led and driven by picturesque-looking Greeks. The saddles on these beasts 
 were uncouth contrivances of wood, on which the rider was perched high above the little animal 
 beneath him; his feet were 
 placed in the bight of a cord 
 looped down on either side of 
 the saddle, and the only 
 means of navigating or guid- 
 ing the donkey or mule was 
 through the blows and objur- 
 gations of the driver, as no 
 bridle or anything else of that 
 description was provided. 
 The cavalcade proceeded 
 along a level highway through 
 the plain intervening between 
 the sea and the foot-hills, 
 but soon the cat-like donkeys 
 and mules began scrambling 
 up the steep and stony paths 
 leading in zig-zags and cut- 
 offs from the highway up 
 the hills towards Delphi. A 
 superb panorama was . now 
 
 spread out before us. At our side, deep down, was the valley of the old Pleistos. In front the 
 steep and stony foot-hills of the Parnassos. Behind and below us, the level plain, green and grey 
 with vineyards and olive trees. In the background, the high, towering grey mountains, bare 
 of vegetation, and, shimmering in the distance, the blue Gulf of Corinth. After a series of 
 
 steep climbs up stony paths, 
 the village of Kastri was 
 reached, and soon the cliffs 
 of the Pheedriadag, the "shin- 
 ing rocks" of the ancients, 
 appeared, between which the 
 Castalian spring gushes forth, 
 and the temple ruins could 
 be discerned on the mountain 
 side. The situation of Delphi, 
 with its sanctuaries, is a 
 superb and unequaled one. 
 The only remains are the 
 ruins of Temples and Treas- 
 ure Houses that have been 
 excavated by the French. 
 These Temples were placed 
 on the slope of the moun- 
 tain, near the cliffs of the 
 Phsedriadae, which belong to 
 the foot-hills of the Parnassos. They are situated immediately at the foot of the cliffs 
 and overlook the deep valley which stretches for many miles to the east and west, flanked by 
 high, grey mountains nearly bare of vegetation, but showing here and there patches of color on 
 the table-lands or level stretches on their summits, where fields are cultivated. The situation 
 
 GREEK MUSICIANS, DELPHI 
 
 12 
 
THE CLEFT FROM WHICH THE CASTALIAX SPRIXG ISSUES 
 
 is grander than that of Olympia, which is in a level plain surrounded by hills pleasing in 
 contour but not imposing by reason of height. 
 
 The first ruins to be inspected were those of the Temple of Athene Pronaia and of a circular 
 building, the Hereon, both beyond and below the Castalian spring, the Heroon consisting only 
 of a marble foundation with three steps and finely sculptured and decorated fragments of the 
 same material. Of the Temple of Athene Pronaia several pillars of a reddish-brown stone are 
 still erect, one of them with an entablature on top. The next object of interest was the famous 
 
 Castalian spring or fountain issuing 
 out of the side of a cleft or fissure 
 between the two Phaedriadae. This 
 cleft, which is said to have so greatly 
 impressed the ancients, is of rather 
 small dimensions. During the win- 
 ter months and after heavy rains, a 
 waterfall pours down the fissure, but 
 it was drv at the time of our visit. 
 Nor is the Castalian fountain much 
 more impressive. The imagination 
 may possibly conjure up different sur- 
 roundings and settings out of the ruin- 
 ous and dilapidated conditions obtain- 
 ing around this sacred spot, and, if 
 so, it becomes hallowed and one can 
 then realize the mystery that haunted 
 this celebrated fountain, in which in 
 olden times the pilgrims to Delphi washed themselves before consulting the divine oracle. 
 
 The excavations of the sacred precincts proper, undertaken by the French, extend upward 
 from the road toward the cliffs. A sacred way, now unearthed, leads up through the enclosure 
 in a zig-zag and passes a Treasure House, or Temple of Athene, which has been partly re-erected, 
 a column dedicated by the Naxians, and an innumerable quantity of pedestals and bases for 
 votive statues erected along the sacred way by various states and cities, commemorative of 
 victories and other celebrated events in their history. Among these votive structures the 
 Treasure House of Knidos is the best pre- 
 served. The remains of its beautiful sculpt- 
 ures have been deposited in the Museum. 
 
 Of the celebrated Temple of Apollo, only 
 foundations and floor are left, and hardly any- 
 thing can be distinguished of the superstruc- 
 ture. The position of this temple was the 
 grandest that can well be imagined. Placed 
 on a level platform projecting from the steep 
 side of the mountain, this beautiful temple, 
 with its great proportions and white coloring, 
 must have dominated the entire scene, con- 
 spicuous, as it was, from all sides and for 
 many miles up and down the valley below. 
 In the floor of the temple can still be seen 
 
 traces of the fissure through which the vapors arose and the subterranean rumblings 
 issued, and over which the golden tripod was placed as a seat for the oracle or prophetic 
 priestess. 
 
 Farther up the mountain side a fine semi-circular theatre has been discovered, its seats 
 still intact, and its auditorium looking out upon the magnificent panorama of widespread valley 
 and high mountains in the distance. The Museum contains the celebrated "Charioteer," 
 an impressive figure in bronze, perfectly preserved with the exception of the left arm, which 
 
 TAliLKS SPREAD FOR LUMCHF.OX, DELPHI 
 
 13 
 
VIEW FROM THEATRE, DELPHI 
 
 14 
 
 THEATRE, DELPHI 
 
is lacking. The eyes of ivory, with black eyeballs, are in place. The collection in the Museum 
 includes the fine sculptures of the Treasure House of Knidos, and is very well arranged, better, 
 in fact, than that of the Museum at Olympia. The French have under preparation an elabor- 
 ate description of their interesting discoveries at Delphi, and until this description is published 
 they decline to permit any photographs of the treasures in the Museum and of the temples in 
 the sacred precinct to be taken. 
 
 On our way down the mountain from Delphi to Itea our donkeys and mules climbed and 
 scrambled down precipitous, zig-zag paths, over loose stones and rocks, in a manner that excited 
 our admiration of the skill of these animals in this difficult kind of work. On reaching the plain, 
 we again passed vineyard after vineyard and could witness the method of wine-making in these 
 countries, which, when seen, does not create a great desire to try the newly -made product. 
 
 Where is thy crown of beauty, Dorian maid, 
 Corinth, thy towers, thy wealth, of old uplaid ? 
 Gone are thy fanes, thy palaces, thy proud 
 Sisyphian dames, — thy once unnumbered crowd. 
 O ill-starred city. War hath reft away 
 Thine all; no relic of thee lives to-day. 
 Only, like sea-birds that outlast the storm. 
 We, Ocean-Nymphs, yet haunt thy ruined form. 
 — Aniipaler of Sidon, 
 
 Leivis Caiiipbell's trandation. 
 
 Athens, Greece, October 9, 1904. 
 The steamer remained at Itea until after daybreak this morning, when she left her anchorage 
 and steamed to Corinth, arriving there about 9 a. m. Unfortunately, the hanging clouds 
 
 obstructed or impaired the 
 beautiful view of the Corin- 
 thian Gulf that there pre- 
 sents itself to the traveler. 
 We landed on a rickety little 
 pier and proceeded by car- 
 riage and cart to the town of 
 Old Corinth, some five miles 
 distant from New Corinth, 
 where a tent had been erected 
 and all arrangements for 
 lunch made by our indus- 
 trious stewards. 
 
 Dr. Schrader took us 
 through the excavations made 
 here by the Americans. These 
 consist of a Temple of Apollo, 
 of which only a few columns, 
 with the entablature and the 
 foundations, are left, and of 
 the principal ancient street 
 which led up from the port to 
 the town, wider than the ordi- 
 nary street of the ancients, 
 and provided with side-walks 
 and with bases for statues 
 on either side. The princi- 
 pal discovery, however, made 
 by the Americans consists of 
 
 FOUNTAIN OF PEIRENE, CORINTH 
 
 15 
 
the fountain of Peirene, which supphed the city with water. The water gushed out through 
 arched enclosures which open into a fine court surrounded with walls decorated with marble 
 sculptures. These discoveries are most interesting, and it is to be hoped that the excavations 
 will be continued. 
 
 After returning to New Corinth, we took a special train for Athens, arriving there at 
 6.30 p. m., and finding comfortable quarters in the Hotel Grande Bretagne. 
 
 ^ 
 
 Know of a truth, that onl_v the Time shadows have perished or are perishable; that 
 the real Being of whatever was and whatever is and whatever will be, is even now and 
 forever. This, should it unhappily seem new, thou may'st ponder at thy leisure; for the 
 next twenty years or the ne.xt twenty centuries: believe it thou must: understand it thou 
 canst not. — T/iomas Cariy/e, "Sartor Resartus." 
 
 Athens, October 10, 1904. 
 The sun rose in a perfectly s 
 
 clear sky, and it was therefore 
 
 determined to devote the -.,: 
 
 morning to the Acropolis. 
 
 The pilgrims found carriages 
 
 awaiting them at the door of 
 
 the hotel, and were rapidly 
 
 conveyed to the entrance of 
 
 the Acropolis. Here, before 
 
 entering the sacred precinct. 
 
 Dr. Schrader indicated to the 
 
 assembled company the vari- 
 ous points of interest that 
 
 can be discerned from the 
 
 hill, Mount Hymettos, famed 
 
 in ancient times for its honey, 
 
 on the east, and the Pentel- 
 
 icos, whence the marble was 
 
 quarried for Athens, on the 
 
 northwest, while to the south 
 
 Salamis and /Egina appeared in the distant sea, and in the foreground Pirseus intervened. 
 
 The graceful Mount Lycabettos towered over the city on the north, crowned with a mon- 
 astery, and near the Acrop- 
 olis, on the south, appeared 
 the Areopagos, on which the 
 courts of justice sat ; the 
 Pnyx, on which the people 
 of Athens held their public 
 meetings, and the hill of 
 Philopappos, with a monu- 
 ment on its summit. 
 
 On entering the Propy- 
 laea. Dr. Schrader explained 
 its architectural and archaeo- 
 logical features with great 
 clearness. A small temple 
 of Athene Nike, formerly in 
 ruins, but re-constructed sixty 
 years ago, stands on a pro- 
 jecting platform before the 
 Propylaea. The frieze of this 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE PARTHENON, ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS 
 
 TEMPLE OF ATHENE NIKE ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS 
 
 16 
 
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temple is especially interesting, but is only partly in situ, four panels having been taken to 
 London by Lord Elgin, where they now are deposited in the British Museum. 
 
 The imposing Propylasa, consisting of a central gateway and two wings, were greatly 
 admired by the pilgrims, especially the workmanship discernible in the hall at the inner end of 
 the structure. Dr. Schrader then elucidated the topography of the Acropolis Hill and its original 
 level, which has been changed by the filling in with rubbish of the declivity that formerly existed 
 
 THE ERECHTHEION, ACROPOLIS OF ATHEXS 
 
 on the eastern side of the hill, and the construction of the great retaining wall, now so con- 
 spicuous a feature of the Acropolis. These changes were made shortly after the Persian wars, 
 and to them is ascribable the preservation of many of the ancient archaic sculptures now 
 in the Acropolis Museum, as among the rubbish used for filling were buried many of the old 
 statues and reliefs that at first adorned the Acropolis and that were discarded and thrown 
 away, to be used for filling-in purposes, after the advance in art and education had rendered 
 these archaic sculptures out of date. 
 
 The Parthenon, that most imposing temple structure, still grand in its present dilapidated 
 condition, occupied the undivided attention of the pilgrims under Dr. Schrader's guidance for 
 some time. The fact was pointed out that the central portion of the temple and other parts 
 were not destroyed by earthquake, but by a shell, which blew up the powder magazine of the 
 Turks in the Parthenon during the bombardment of Athens and the Acropolis by the Venetians 
 in the latter part of the 17th Century. It was a German artillery officer in the service of the 
 Venetians who enjoys the doubtful distinction of having, after many ineffectual efforts, suc- 
 ceeded in exploding the powder magazine, and the wretch is said to have ever afterward taken 
 great credit to himself for having partially destroyed one of the most beautiful monuments 
 of ancient art. 
 
 The Erechtheion was the next building visited. The northern fagade of this beautiful 
 edifice has recently with great taste and judgment been restored and re-built by the Greek 
 architect in charge of the Acropolis. The Acropolis Museum contains the sculptures found 
 on the spot, mostly archaic remains of the figures adorning the older temples that preceded 
 the Parthenon on this historic hill. 
 
 17 
 
FRONT VIEW OF THE PARTHENON, ACROPOLIS (IF ATHENS 
 
 SIDE VIEW OF THK PARTHENON, ACUl H'l 1 1, is "I Mill 
 
 IS 
 
In the afternoon tlie National Museum was visited, wliich contains specimens of scul]jturcs 
 found in Athens, many of them most interesting in their composition and execution. Dr. 
 
 Schrader undertook the explanation of the sculptures, 
 beginning; witli the earliest specimens of archaic Greek 
 art, formless and wooden, with the usual conventional 
 smile on their features, and thence developing into the 
 beautiful art creations of the Periclean period — -a fine 
 Apollo, a majestic Poseidon from IMelos, a miniature 
 copy of Phidias, Pallas Athene of the Parthenon, and 
 others equally interesting. Among the sculptures are 
 also a large number of sepulcliral reliefs, showing the 
 departed one bidding good-by to his relatives, but 
 without any painful display of distress or grief. The 
 finest of these reliefs is that of a young man, evidently 
 a hunter, who is depicted gazing meditatively into space 
 and leaning on his spear, his hunting dog at his feet and 
 his slave boy asleep on the 
 ground behind him, while his 
 aged father is shown in profile, 
 his hand holding his chin and 
 his eyes fixed sorrowfully on 
 his son. A votive tablet con- 
 taining a relief of the 5th 
 Century B. C. shows the god- 
 dess Demeter presenting Trip- 
 tolemos, the patron of hus- 
 bandry, with grains of corn, 
 while Persephone places a gar- 
 land upon Triptolemos' head. Another relief of great merit is that 
 
 of a Nike bend- 
 ing over to 
 loosen her san- 
 d a 1 . The 
 drapery of this 
 figure is marvel- 
 ous. A bronze 
 Hermes, re- 
 covered of late 
 from the wreck 
 of a vessel sunk 
 
 about 200 B. C. on the Greek coast, 
 creates a great deal of interest, but I 
 must confess that I could not share in 
 the general admiration expressed for 
 this statue. It appeared to me that the 
 face was lacking in manliness, and I 
 should think that the figure had been 
 intended to represent Paris awarding the 
 apple rather than Hermes. 
 
 SEPULCHR.\L RELIEF. X.^TIOX,\L MUSEUM, .\THEXS 
 
 POSEIDOX, NATIOX.-\L MUSEUM, ATHEXS 
 
 ARCHAIC STATUE OF 
 
 ATHENE, NATIONAL 
 
 MUSEUM, ATHENS 
 
 19 
 
HEAD OF DEMOSTHENES, NATIOXAL 
 MUSEUM, ATHENS 
 
 RELIEF OF DEMETER GIVING TRIPTOLEMOS. 
 
 THE PATRON OF HUSBANDRY, GRAINS OF 
 
 CORN, NATIONAL MUSEUM, ATHENS 
 
 PART OF FRIEZE OF PARTHENON. NATIONAL MUSEUM ATHENS 
 
 20 
 
Wherever literature consoles sorrow or assuages pain; wherever 
 it brings gladness to eyes which fail with wakefulness and tears, and 
 ache for the dark house and the long sleep — there is exhibited in its 
 n()l>lesl form the immortal influence of Athens. 
 
 — Mamulay, "JCssay on Mi/ford's History o; Greece." 
 
 Athens, October 11, 1904. 
 The morning was taken up with a general view, 
 conducted by Dr. Schrader, of the Theseion, the Odeion, 
 the theatre of Dionysos, the Olympieion, the new 
 Stadion, the ancient burial-ground and the Pnyx. In 
 the afternoon Dr. Schrader took the company through 
 that part of the National Museum containing the 
 sepulchral ornaments of gold and silver, household 
 articles, weapons and vases excavated in various parts of 
 Greece, and including the magnificent treasure of gold and 
 silver articles found by Dr. Schliemann in his excava- 
 tions in Mykenae, which have established the remark- 
 able fact that, contrary to former views held by 
 archaeologists, an art period of great excellence existed 
 in parts of Greece, notably in Mykenae, long before 
 the first rude Hellenic art productions that had previ- 
 ously been found. The Mykenean treasures in the 
 Athens Museum, evidently formerly belonging to princes 
 or rulers and buried with them, to which circumstance they owe their preservation, are of 
 great extent and richness. 
 
 In the evening Dr. Schrader delivered a lecture before the assembled pilgrims in the 
 German Archaeological Institute, explanatory of the Mvkenean period of civilization, evidences 
 of which we shall see when we visit Mykenee and Tiryns, also referring to the excavations con- 
 ducted by the British at Knosos, in Crete, that have recently furnished very remarkable results. 
 Dr. Schrader drew attention to the curious resemblance of some of the decorations employed 
 by the Mykeneans to those of the Japanese. There are knives or daggers of the Mykenean 
 period in the Museum in Athens, the inlaid work on which reminds one forcibly of Japanese art. 
 
 RELIEF OF NIKE, .\,\TIO\.\L MUSEU.M, .ATHE.NS 
 
 Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of 
 
 arts 
 And eloquence. 
 — Milton, "Paradise Regained." 
 
 Athens, October 12, 1904 
 A beautiful night gave 
 promise of a fine sunrise. 
 Gus and I therefore rose at 5 
 a. m., and set forth for the 
 summit of the Lycabettos.the 
 graceful hill to the north of 
 Athens, which towers like a 
 pyramid above the city. We 
 reached the top half an hour 
 before sunrise and found a 
 chapel there, in front of which 
 a terrace gave an unob- 
 structed view of the grand 
 panorama that unfolded itself 
 
 -MT. LYC.\BETTOS. .\THENS 
 
 21 
 
before us. At our feet lay the City of Athens in obscurity, bej'ond 
 the city the Acropohs rose grey and solemn, crowned with the 
 Parthenon; and farther on beyond Piraeus, the Islands of Salamis 
 and /Egina lay in the smooth sea, while the background to the 
 south was formed by the mountains of the Peloponnesos. To the 
 east the grey and brown mass of the Hymettos loomed up, while 
 in the west we searched unsuccessfully for far-off Aero Corinth 
 and Mount Parnassos, both swallowed up in the haze. Gradu- 
 ally the landscape lightened, the mountain tops to the west were 
 touched with pink, and then the country around reflected the 
 first rays of the sun, while the Acropolis still lay in the shadow 
 thrown by Mount Hymettos. When Helios finally touched the 
 Parthenon, the reddish pillars became pink and the white 
 marble glowed as if transparent. It was a glorious sight and 
 well worth the early morning climb of half an hour up a steep 
 mountain path. 
 
 On returning to the city, we paid another visit to the Acropolis, 
 and wandered around and over the sacred hill ending with the 
 Acropolis Museum, which contains a remarkable series of statues 
 of priestesses or goddesses of archaic form among its treasures. 
 We then again passed through the National Museum, dwell- 
 ing long before our favorite statues and reliefs, and at 3.30 
 p. m. departed in carriages for Piraeus, where we found the 
 "Schleswig" waiting for us. 
 
 MINL\TURE OF PALLAS ATHENE BY 
 
 I'HIDIAS, NATIONAL MUSEUM, 
 
 ATHENS 
 
 Who can paint 
 Like nature? Can imagination boast. 
 Amid its gay creation, hues lilce hers? 
 Or can it mi.x them with that matchless skill, 
 And lose them in each other, as appears 
 In every bud that blows ? 
 
 — Thomson, ' ' The Seasons. ' ' 
 
 Santorin, Greece, October 13, 1904. 
 This island is situated in the /Egean Sea, about one hundred and fifty miles south of 
 Athens. It is of volcanic origin and is probabh^ the most remarkable natural phenomenon 
 that is to be seen in the Mediterranean. The island formerly consisted of one large and extensive 
 
 mountain, some six thousand 
 five hundred feet in height 
 and spreading out in slopes 
 toward the sea on all sides. 
 About two thousand years 
 ago the mountain was sub- 
 jected to violent volcanic 
 action, which caused the dis- 
 appearance of its summit, 
 leaving a large and deep cra- 
 ter in the centre which the 
 sea filled, the rim of the cra- 
 ter surrounding this central 
 sea in a circle interrupted 
 by two openings communi- 
 cating with the Mediterra- 
 nean. The rim of this extinct, 
 water-filled crater, which is 
 
 THE STEAM PINNACE SEEKING AN ANCHORAGE AT SANTORIN 
 
 22 
 
CLIFFS 1,000 FEET HIGH, .S.\NTORIN 
 
 about ten miles in diameter, 
 consists of cliffs one thousand 
 feet in height. The coloring 
 of the cliffs, which present 
 their bold outline against the 
 sky, is one of the remarkable 
 features of this wonder of 
 nature. Red, brown, grey 
 and white tints in horizontal 
 streaks extend around their 
 precipitous sides, and on their 
 summit populous towns and 
 cities are built, the white 
 houses of which form a most 
 vivid and delightful contrast 
 to the predominant red, brown 
 and grey color of the rocky 
 heights. In the centre of the 
 
 inland sea formed by the extinct crater are two small lava islands formed by later volcanic 
 
 action. The last eruption occurred in 186G and destroyed a village on the shore of one of 
 
 the little islands. These two islands are of 
 
 such recent formation that they contain 
 
 little if any vegetation. The rim of the old 
 
 crater which now forms the Island of Santorin 
 
 radiates in gentle slopes from the high cliffs of 
 
 the central sea to the Mediterranean. These 
 
 radiating declivities or slopes, covering many 
 
 square miles of surface, are densely culti- 
 vated and yield a rather fiery wine, that 
 
 ■forms the chief production of the island 
 
 and a very valuable source of revenue 
 
 for its inhabitants, who export it chiefly to 
 
 Southern Russia, where it is esteemed very 
 
 highly, and whence grain is imported into the island in exchange. 
 
 On approaching Santorin this morning, the pinnace was sent ahead to verify the depths given in 
 
 the Admiralty charts on 
 board, and to seek the only 
 anchorage-ground that the 
 inland sea offers. This anchor- 
 age is hardly more than two 
 hundred feet square and con- 
 sists of a submarine eminence 
 cast up by volcanic activity. 
 Every other part of the inland 
 sea surrounded b}' Santorin 
 Island is so deep that anchor- 
 age cannot be found for any 
 ordinarv length of anchor- 
 chain or cable. The steamer 
 slowlv followed the pinnace 
 into the central sea, passing 
 through one of the openings 
 THE L.^NDi.xG-PL.uE OX THE L.^\A isL.^MJb between the high cliffs. The 
 
 THE LAVA ISLANDS IN THE INLAN'D SEA 
 
 23 
 
ON THE SUMMIT OF THE EXTINCT VOLCANO 
 
 pinnace marked the anchor- 
 age-ground near one of tTie 
 
 central small islands with a 
 
 buoy, and the steamer 
 
 anchored in about thirty 
 
 fathoms. The boats were 
 
 made ready and were towed 
 
 by the pinnace to a sheltered 
 
 bay in one of the small 
 
 islands, where, after finding a 
 
 safe approach to the rocky 
 
 shore by sounding, the pil- 
 grims landed on the lava 
 
 rocks and picked their way 
 
 carefully and laboriously to the rough path which had been cut up to the most recent crater 
 
 on the island. After a very hard climb of five hundred feet the summit was reached, where 
 
 we were rewarded by a fine view of the inland sea and the high cliffs surrounding it. Professor 
 
 Sapper, of the geological fac- 
 ulty of the University of Tii- 
 bingen, who happened to be on 
 the island of Santorin for the 
 purpose of making scientific 
 investigations, and who joined 
 our party, made an impromp- 
 tu address here, giving us the 
 geological history of this 
 remarkable island, which owes 
 its existence and its present 
 formation to volcanic action 
 alone, and which presents 
 probably the most unique 
 and interesting instance of 
 such action in the known 
 world. After descending the 
 crater over loose lava and 
 stone, the party returned to 
 the boats, stopping to exam- 
 ine the uncanny sulphurous springs boiling up along the shores of the island. 
 
 A large number of pilgrims expressed the desire to visit Thira,the principal city of the island 
 
 of Santorin, on the summit of that part of the cliffs opposite which the steamer lay. The}' 
 
 were conveyed to the little 
 
 quay at the foot of the cliff, 
 
 whence a zig-zag path led up 
 
 the face of the precipice to 
 
 the white city gleaming in 
 
 the sunlight one thousand 
 
 feet above the water. We 
 
 found the city clean, pictur- 
 esque and entirely innocent t^^^f^^^^^^^KKHlKl^^S^SS^ 
 
 of any modern improvements. 
 
 It was evidently the same as 
 
 it might have been one 
 
 thousand years ago. We were 
 
 conducted bv Dr. Wiegand 
 
 ■' iv-gaiiii ^^^ CLIFFS, CROWNED WITH THE CITY OF THIRA 
 
 DESCENDING TO THE BOATS 
 
 24 
 
THE CITY OF THIRA 
 
 VIEW FROM CLIFF 
 
 to a small hotel, where we 
 sampled the strong, fiery 
 wine of Santorin, and then 
 visited the Museum of the 
 city, where the ancient 
 objects excavated on the 
 island are exhibited. These 
 include a number of inter- 
 esting busts and archaic vases, 
 the latter of very rude work- 
 manship, probably antedating 
 the Mykenean period. 
 Descending the steep, zig- 
 zag path from the citv on the 
 cliff to the inland sea, we 
 returned to the steamer, glad 
 to rest after our physical 
 exertions in walking over lava debris 
 and climbing up steep mountain 
 paths. This day at Santorin, which 
 showed us nature in her most 
 stupendous works, was a welcome 
 change after our round of art studv 
 and contemplation. The steamer 
 weighed anchor at 5 p. m. and slowh' 
 steamed out of the great crater of 
 Santorin in the light of the evening 
 sun, which illumined the volcanic 
 cliffs and the high white-walled cities 
 on their summit in a magic glow. 
 
 Like the baseless fabric of this vision. 
 
 The cloud-capped towers, the gorgeous palaces, 
 
 The solemn temples, the great globe itself, 
 
 Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve, 
 
 And like this insubstantial pageant faded 
 
 Leave not a rack behind. 
 
 — Shakespeare, "The Tempest y 
 
 Candia, October 14, 1904. 
 Candia, or Crete, is situated sixty-three 
 miles south of Santorin. It is a large island, 
 the largest of this archipelago, formerly 
 under Turkish rule, but now only nomi- 
 nally under the suzerainty of the Sultan, as 
 it is controlled by the great powers, by 
 whom Prince George of Greece has been 
 established on the island as its Governor- 
 General. The ultimate destiny of Crete will, 
 no doubt, be its incorporation in the Kingdom 
 of Greece, but there are obstacles in the way, 
 chief of which is the large public debt of 
 
 LITTLE GREEK BEAUTY. SANTOKIX 
 
 25 
 
HARBOR ENTRANCE, CANDIA 
 
 Greece, part of which mus^ be assumed by 
 Crete if it is taken over by Greece, and this 
 would place a heavy burden on the island. 
 
 Our steamer cast anchor off the ancient 
 town of Herakleion, now Candia, late last 
 night, and at 8 a. m. landing operations 
 began in a lively sea that threw the spray 
 over the dancing boats as they were towed 
 into the harbor by the pinnace. 
 
 The old harbor is the work of the Vene- 
 tians, whose possession Crete was for many 
 centuries, and the Lion of St. Mark still appears in sculptured stone upon the great walls 
 of the fortified port. The town shows a queer mixture of European and Oriental civilization, 
 and European and Turkish costumes are seen side by side. The physical appearance of the 
 people is superb, and they seem to be of good stock, well built and with fine and frequently 
 striking faces. Especially the police, organized by the Italians on the plan of the Carabinieri 
 of Italy, uniformed in black and of magnificent build, are noticeable. They walk along in city 
 and country, two by two, as the Carabinieri 
 do in Italy, and life and property are 
 entirely safe here under their watchful care. 
 Our way from the harbor led us past a 
 fine old fountain erected in memory of the 
 Venetian Doge Morosini at the end of the 
 17th Century. A few mosques with their 
 minarets were also passed, but the Turkish 
 population of the island has been materially 
 reduced by emigration since the change in 
 government, and the Greek type now pre- 
 dominates. 
 
 The Museum established by the Gov- 
 ernment was the first object of our atten- 
 tion. It contains many of the vases, 
 frescoes, sarcophagi and other articles excavated at Knosos and other points in the island. 
 The party then took carriages, donkeys and mules for the palace excavations of Knosos, 
 some five miles in the interior. These excavations are conducted by the English under 
 the leadership of Mr. Arthur Evans, and have recently led to remarkable discoveries 
 of great interest to archaeologists. The entire ground-plan of the old palace of the mighty 
 King Minos has now been uncovered. It is known 
 as the Labyrinth in which the Minotaurus dwelt, to 
 
 whom a certain number of youths and maidens were ?j^ 
 
 sacrificed every year. This, no doubt, is fable, but _ , "1 
 
 the facts established by the researches and discov- 
 eries of the English show that the palace of Minos 
 belonged to a pre-historic period of civilization ante- 
 dating the Mykenean, of which so many interesting 
 remains have been discovered in Mykenae and Tiryns. 
 Knosos is placed by the archaeologists in the period 
 between 2000 and 1500 B.C. Dr. Wiegand, who had 
 delivered an interesting lecture on board the steamer 
 on the evening before our arrival at Candia, on the 
 Knosos discoveries, and a Greek archaeologist, who 
 represents the Government, led the company through 
 the ruins after an ample lunch had been discussed, 
 prepared by the ship's stewards on tables and on the road to knosos 
 
 STREET IN CANDIA 
 
 26 
 
benches brought from the steamer, witli all the accessories of civilization, such as table covers, 
 napkins, etc. 
 
 Remains of private dwellings attached to the palace were seen, generally showing a very 
 simple arrangement of rooms around a central open court into which the living-room gave. 
 In this living-room was a throne for the head of the house, whose authority over the household 
 in those primeval, happy days was as supreme and unquestioned as that of any absolute 
 monarch. Bath-rooms, with evidences of considerable refinement of civilization, have been 
 uncovered, one of them showing traces of fresco painting, and a well-planned system of pipes for 
 conveying the water-supply 
 
 and for removing sewage is /^ 
 
 now shown, the latter empty- 
 ing into a little stream in 
 the valley in which Knosos 
 is situated. In the palace 
 proper a large number of 
 store-rooms have been exca- 
 vated containing enormous 
 amphorae or jars for the 
 storage of wine, while in the 
 ground are pits lined with 
 alabaster and covered over 
 with the same material, in 
 which grain and other sup- 
 plies were kept to provide 
 against a siege, which was 
 probably not an infrequent 
 occurrence in those days. In 
 one part of the palace the 
 audience-hall of the king has 
 
 been discovered, containing a stone chair or throne, the seat and back of which are hollowed 
 to fit the form of the sitter, exactly as our chairs with wooden seats are frequently constructed 
 at the present day. In one corner of the audience-hall there is a basin or depression reached 
 by a few steps, and apparently intended for a bath; but, as no openings in the sides or 
 bottom can be discovered, the basin must have been used for some other purpose. A small 
 palace chapel has been found containing archaic figures of some deities and jars evidently 
 
 intended for votive offerings to the 
 gods. 
 
 The impression conveyed by a 
 -^ visit to these interesting remains, and 
 
 IL ^„^ ^..tm to the Museum containing the objects 
 
 ^ ' '^Jiii" '"* "^^^^^1 found on the site of the palace, is 
 
 that the people who erected these 
 dwellings and lived in them must 
 have reached a comparatively high 
 state of civilization at that early 
 period, from twenty to fifteen cen- 
 turies before Christ. 
 
 So far the efforts to decipher the 
 Mykenean characters as inscribed on 
 tablets dating from that period have 
 been unsuccessful, but the key will be 
 found in the course of time, and we 
 shall then know more of the hidden mysteries of this ancient civilization. Mr. Hazedakis, the 
 Greek archaeologist of Candia, who accompanied us through the excavations at Knosos, informed 
 
 .\RRI\AL AT KXUSUb 
 
 EXCAVATIONS UF KXuSuS 
 
 27 
 
us that Mr. Evans, who is in charge of the interesting work, has recently discovered the 
 key to the numerals in the ]\Iykenean writings. This is undoubtedly the beginning and will be 
 
 followed by further discoveries in this particular field. 
 
 Mr. Evans himself was absent at the time of our 
 
 visit to Knosos. 
 
 Returning to the harbor of Candia, we bade 
 
 good-by to the Island of Crete, which was believed by 
 
 the ancients to have been the birthplace of Zeus, 
 
 and sailed for Rhodos. 
 
 Nor can imagination quit the shores 
 Of those bright scenes without a farewell glance 
 Given to the dream-like issues, the romance 
 Of many-colored life that fortune pours 
 Round the Crusaders, till on distant shores 
 Their labors end. 
 
 — IVordsworlh. 
 
 THE STORE ROOMS ( )l KIXC MINOS' PALACE 
 
 Rhodos, Turkey, October 15, 1904. 
 The steamer anchored off the pleasant-looking port of Rhodos early in the morning, and 
 
 the landing party proceeded ashore to view the town. Rhodos contains no traces of its 
 
 ancient prominence in commerce and in 
 
 art. Its only present fame is based upon 
 
 the fact that it was during the Middle Ages 
 
 the possession and fastness of the Knights 
 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, whose head was a 
 
 Grand Master. These Knights established 
 
 themselves here, after having taken the island 
 
 from the Saracens, and fortified the harbor 
 
 strongly. Remains of these fortifications, 
 
 which were taken by the Turks under Soliman, 
 
 in the year 1522, when the Knights removed 
 
 to Malta, are still in existence, and the pal- 
 aces and houses of the Knights are now 
 
 inhabited by the Turks. The palace of the 
 
 Grand Master is now a prison, in which polit- 
 ical prisoners and criminals are confined. 
 
 One of the ancient myths that historical research has dissolved into nothing is the story 
 
 of the Colossus of Rhodes, an enormous figure, one foot of which was said to have been planted 
 
 on one side of the entrance 
 to the port and the other 
 foot on the other side, vessels 
 passing in and out under the 
 figure, which held a torch and 
 served as a light-house, mark- 
 ing the approach to the 
 harbor. The only true basis 
 for this story is the historical 
 fact that the Rhodians, in 
 the year 338 B. C, erected 
 a colossal bronze statue of 
 Apollo, said to have been 120 
 feet in height, which was de- 
 HARBOR OF RHODOS stroyed, broken off at the 
 
 \ I \l r I s \I KNOSOS 
 
 28 
 
.w5.^^' 
 
 A MODERN RHOUIAN 
 
 knees, in 2S2 B. C, by an 
 earthquake. Nothing is left 
 of this colossal figure at the 
 present day, and not even 
 its site is known. 
 
 Rhodos is said to enjoy a 
 delightfully equable and 
 sunny climate, and was re- 
 garded by the ancients as a 
 favorite of the Sun God. It 
 did not belie its reputation 
 at the time of our visit. 
 
 The historical fact is in- 
 teresting that during the 
 period of Rhodos' pre-emi- 
 nence as a commercial and maritime power in the Mediterranean, beginning with the 4th 
 
 Century B.C., the city's code 
 
 of maritime law was supreme 
 
 in the entire Mediterranean, 
 
 and this code was finally 
 
 adopted by the Romans. Its 
 
 schools of sculpture and of 
 
 rhetoric were equally well 
 
 known throughout the civil- 
 ized world of those daj's. 
 At noon, the pilgrims 
 
 having returned from their 
 
 wanderings through the town 
 
 of Rhodos, the steamer 
 
 weighed anchor and pro- 
 ceeded along the coast of 
 
 Asia Minor, past the site of 
 
 the ancient city of Knidos, 
 
 the inhabitants of which 
 
 erected the temple-treasure 
 
 house in Delphi, the frieze 
 
 of which had excited our special admiration, and the city of Budrun, formerly Halicarnassos, 
 
 the site of the monument to King Mausolos, remains of which are now in the British 
 
 Museum. The Knights of St. 
 John had one of their fort- 
 resses here, a formidable 
 castle in a commanding posi- 
 tion above the sea. This is 
 one of many similar fortresses 
 which were held by the 
 Knights along the coast of 
 Asia Minor. 
 
 After threading a narrow 
 passage between the islands, 
 the steamer cast anchor 
 opposite the island of Samos, 
 south of the mouth of the 
 Meander, in Kowella bay, 
 Asia Minor. 
 
 STREET IM RHODOS 
 
 COURTYARD OF HOUSE IN RHODOS 
 
 29 
 
The world will turn when we are earth 
 As though we had not come nor gone; 
 There was no lack before our birth, 
 When we are gone there will be none. 
 — Omar Khayyam. 
 
 Kowella Bay, near Miletus, Asia Minor, 
 October 16, 1904. 
 
 At 5 a. m. the commissariat departed with 
 the provisions for Miletus. The pilgrims 
 landed at 8 a. m. on a rocky, uninhabited 
 shore near the mouth of the Meander. To 
 MILETUS OF TO-DAY ^^^ ^^^^^^ -^^ ^j^g distance. Mount Mykele 
 
 appeared, where the Greeks defeated the Persians on the same day, in the year 479 B. C, on 
 which another Persian army was defeated by the Greeks at Platsa. This double victory 
 turned the tide against the Persians and saved European civilization from Oriental domination. 
 It was a turning-point in the history of mankind, for, had the Persians been victorious, 
 the entire complexion of the then civilized world would have changed, and there is no ques- 
 tion but that the history of the whole world since that date would have been an entirely 
 different one. To the west the high mountains of Samos were seen, famous in ancient history 
 for its wine and its commerce. 
 
 On landing, a number of ancient- looking horses were found ready, and, as only three or four 
 
 KOWELLA BAY 
 
 ON THE ROAD TO MILETUS 
 
 carriages could be obtained for ladies and old or infirm gentlemen, most of the pilgrims were 
 obliged to make a virtue of necessity and to bestride the quadrupeds, whose saddles were less 
 archaic in shape and construction than those of Delphi. Ladies were obliged to ride man- 
 fashion in the best way they could, but, as the cavalcade did not proceed at a greater speed 
 than a walk, everything went well, with one or two exceptions. In two hours' time, after riding 
 through a rather desolate and lonely-looking country, along shallow valleys and over hills 
 covered with a low, brush-like growth and but few trees, we reached the collection of huts that 
 now marks the site of one of the most powerful cities of the ancient world, Miletus. 
 
 This city was founded by the Greeks as 
 one of their colonies in the 7th or 6th Century 
 B. C, and soon became a most important 
 centre of commerce. Asia Minor, in the words 
 of Dr. Wiegand, then occupied the same 
 position toward Greece as North America did 
 to Europe in later days, and Miletus might 
 have been compared to New York in her 
 relative importance. Her power is illustrated 
 by the fact that she established no less than 
 
 SHIPS THAT PASS 
 
 30 
 
sixty tributary cities along the coast of Asia 
 Minor and in the Black Sea, including 
 Byzantium, afterward known as Constanti- 
 nople. The encroachments of Miletus in the 
 interior of Asia, where she penetrated as far 
 as Sardis, were the original cause of the 
 Persian wars, in which the Greeks only suc- 
 ceeded in turning back the tide of Oriental 
 invasion after long and great effort. 
 
 The city was originally situated on the 
 shore of the sea, but at the present day, 
 owing to the gradual deposit of material and 
 the raising of its bed by the river Meander, the site of the ancient city is surrounded by 
 low, swampy land and is at some distance from the sea. The inundations of the river and the 
 material of which many of the houses were built have covered the old city to a depth of twelve 
 feet or more, and, before the excavations were begun, five years ago, only a few isolated ruins, 
 such as the theatre and the Thermas, appeared above the surface of the ground. 
 
 Through the liberality of a number of German gentlemen, headed by the Emperor, funds 
 were provided for the exploration of this important site, and the work was finally aided by the 
 
 THE RKM.MNS OF OLD MILETUS 
 
 EXCA\"ATI0NS AT MILETUS 
 
 PLAIN ONCE COVERED BY THE SEA 
 
 German Government. After some examinations had been made, the ancient street leading from 
 the city directly to the Temple of Apollo, at Didyma, some ten miles to the south, was uncovered, 
 and the clue to further discoveries was thus found. 
 
 Before examining the interesting results of the present excavations, we were led by 
 Dr. Wiegand to a mosque, erected under Sultan Bayadiz, in the year 1501, on the ground 
 covering the ancient city. This mosque is considered one of the most beautiful specimens of 
 Arab architecture in existence. Its doors and its windows, framed in exquisite traceries, are 
 especially noteworthy. The mosque has been 
 damaged by earthquakes, and is in a some- 
 what dilapidated condition although still 
 intact. Through the generosity of a Turkish 
 Pasha, who owns much land in this vicinity, 
 the means have been provided for repairing 
 and restoring this interesting edifice, under the 
 supervision of one of the architects attached 
 to the German Commission at Miletus. 
 
 Our inspection of the excavations began 
 with the city fountain, the masonry core of sanctuary of apollo 
 
 31 
 
SPECTATORS, MILETUS 
 
 which is still in situ, although despoiled of its marble covering and decorations, its appearance 
 must have been similar to that of the fountain of the Acqua Paola, in Rome. From its 
 reservoir the city was supplied with water. The sanctuar}' of Apollo was then visited, showing 
 only the foundation-walls of the sanctuary, around which there appears to have been a forum 
 or market. In this place a 
 number of most valuable and 
 interesting stone tablets, con- 
 taining treaties with tribu- 
 tary or allied cities, extracts 
 of laws and regulations, lists 
 of members of various so- 
 cieties, etc., have been found 
 imbedded in the earth, face 
 downward, and evidently 
 used to raise the level of the 
 market-place. In excavating 
 near the market-place, a wall 
 has been discovered which 
 was evidently hastily thrown 
 up by the Milesians as a pro- 
 tection against the terrible 
 Goths when they threatened 
 Asia Minor. In this wall 
 the frightened Milesians had built in a great quantity of statues, tablets and other materials 
 valuable to the arch^ologist. This treasure is now being gradually mined. As a result of the 
 excavations that have been made, a very extensive system of drainage and sewage has been 
 discovered, and the entire plan of the sewage plant which emptied into the sea is now known. 
 It seems that it is more extensive than that of the largest European continental capitals. 
 
 The Thermas still show some fine masonry work, 
 and here, in the shade of the arches, the skillful 
 stewards had established tables and benches, the 
 former covered with white linen and loaded with 
 solid and liquid refreshments of the most appetiz- 
 ing kind. Around the Thermae and on the arches of 
 the ruins were grouped the entire population of that 
 part of the country, Turkish and Greek, thousands of 
 men, women and children in picturesque costumes 
 who had never seen such a large number of European 
 visitors in one party before, and who gazed at our 
 luncheon in open-mouthed wonder. 
 
 The ancient City Hall of Miletus, also excavated 
 by the Germans, was shown and explained by Dr. 
 Wiegand. It contains a semi-circular arrangement 
 of ascending seats, accommodating six hundred 
 representatives or legislators, with a hall in front, at 
 the entrance to which an altar has been discovered 
 where the legislators were expected to register their 
 vows as representatives of the people, before begin- 
 ning their deliberations. 
 The idea occurred to many of us that a similar religious act on the part of our modern 
 legislators, although unusual, might not be amiss. 
 
 The last building visited was the theatre, an enormous construction dating from the time 
 of Trajan, and accommodating twenty-five thousand or thirty thousand spectators. Two- 
 thirds of the height of the theatre, with the marble seats arranged in semi-circular form. 
 
 TURKS, MILETUS 
 
 32 
 
is still intact. The mighty proportions of this monumental building are very impressive. 
 Dr. Wiegand had arranged a series of wrestling matches between a number of Greeks, 
 
 Turks and Nubians for our de- 
 lectation in the arena or prosceni- 
 um of the theatre, after which the 
 pilgrims wended their way to the 
 carriages and horses and returned to 
 the secluded bay, where the steamer 
 lay in waiting. At 10 p. m. the 
 "Schleswig" weighed anchor and 
 steamed northwestward along the 
 coast past Patmos, the desert island 
 on which the Apostle John, banished 
 by the Emperor Domitian, wrote 
 his Revelation, or Apocalypse. The 
 summit of the island is crowned with 
 a convent, in which the monks guard 
 a large number of valuable manu- 
 scripts, among them a copy of the 
 Gospel according to 5t. Mark, of 
 the 5th Century. Below the con- 
 vent is still shown the cave in which the Apostle lived and in which he saw the visions 
 that formed the basis of his Revelation. 
 
 WRESTLING MATCH IN ARI-:n.\ OF THE.\TRE, MILETUS 
 
 The isles of Greece, the isles of Greece, 
 Where burning Sappho loved and sung. 
 Where grew the arts of war and peace, 
 \\'here Delos rose and Phcebus sprung! 
 Eternal summer gilds them yet; 
 But all except their sun is set. 
 
 — Byron, "Don Juan,'' Canto ///. 
 
 M3^tilene, Turkey, October 17, 1904. 
 When we came on deck this morning our 
 steamer was approaching the City of 
 Smyrna, which is situated in a beautiful 
 amphitheater at the end of a deep bay sur- 
 rounded by high mountains that rise in grad- 
 ual slopes around the cit3^ On anchoring, 
 the pinnace was sent ashore to attend to 
 the necessary formalities, but soon returned 
 with the alarming news that the plague had 
 again broken out in Smyrna, a few cases 
 having been discovered that very morning. 
 We were fortunate in arriving after the 
 discovery of these cases, for, had we reached 
 the port a few hours earlier and disem- 
 barked, we should surely have been quaran- 
 tined on arriving at our next port, 
 Constantinople. Under the circumstances, 
 
 not having landed or had any communication with Smyrna, we were safe from detention at 
 Constantinople, but we were, of course, obliged to abandon our proposed trip from Smyrna 
 to Ephesus, where the Austrians are conducting some very interesting excavations on the site 
 
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 33 
 
TURKISH RAGPICKER 
 
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 HOME AGAIN AFTER A DAY ON SHORE 
 
 of the old city, and the Enghsh have begun excava- 
 tions on the site of the Temple of Diana. After 
 dispatching letters and telegrams, our steamer 
 turned and sailed out of the bay of Smyrna and 
 along the coast of Asia Minor, northward, toward 
 the island of Mytilene, where it was decided to spend 
 the afternoon and night, sailing for Constantinople 
 at 6 a. m. to-morrow. This programme was rendered 
 necessary by the fact that the Turkish regulations 
 prohibit the passage of the Dardanelles between 
 sunset and sunrise, and, in order to reach Constanti- 
 nople early in the morning of the 19th, the most 
 favorable time to enter the Dardanelles would be 
 3 or 4 p. m. 
 
 On arriving at Mytilene we were agreeably sur- 
 prised at the attractive and clean appearance of the 
 town, the position of which — at the foot of a range 
 of mountains, bits of green trees and other growths 
 scattered among the white houses, and a great gray 
 fortress looming up over it on one side — is an 
 impressive one. This fortress was built and 
 occupied for many years by the Genoese. On 
 landing, our passports were taken by the 
 Turkish officials, with the promise to return 
 them to us on board the steamer. We passed 
 through the lower quarter of the town along 
 the shore, and walked up to the old Genoese 
 ,^ fortress that is now occupied by a Turkish 
 411 garrison. From the walls of the fortress we 
 enjoyed a fine view of the city and of the old 
 port to the north of the neck of land occu- 
 pied by the fort. On the parade-ground of 
 the fort, the troops, fine-looking men in rather 
 dirty uniforms, were drawn up for their even- 
 ing parade, which consisted chiefly in an 
 addreiss by the commanding 
 officer, after which a few dis- 
 cordant trumpet tones fol- 
 lowed, and the soldiers 
 shouted three times with one 
 voice, " Padishah tshok 
 yasha," literally translated, 
 "To the Great Lord (the 
 Sultan) many years." This, 
 it appears, is the usual con- 
 clusion of evening parade in 
 the Turkish army. 
 
 Mytilene suffered severely 
 in the uprising against the 
 Turks in 1821, when some 
 twenty thousand of the Greek 
 inhabitants of the island were 
 massacred. Olives, which are 
 grown in superior quality, 
 
 34 
 
form tlie chief article of its commerce, and the wealth of the island is said to have increased 
 considerably during the last half century. The inhabitants appear to be well off and show 
 considerable pride in the decoration of their houses and in the cultivation of flowers in their 
 door-yards. Greek names and inscriptions are universal, and the Turkish inhabitants appear 
 to be small in number. 
 
 SEVEN TOWERS, CGN'STANTINGPLE 
 
 And as when water-fowl of many tribes. 
 
 Geese, cranes and long-necked swans, disport themselves 
 
 In Asia's fields, besides Cayslcr's streams, 
 
 And to and fro they fly with screams, and light. 
 
 Flock after flock, and all the fields resound; 
 
 So poured, from ships and tents, the swarming tribes 
 
 Into Scamander's plain, where fearfully 
 
 Earth echoed to the tramp of steeds and men; 
 
 And there they mustered on the river's side. 
 
 Numberless as the flowers and leaves of spring. 
 
 And as when flies in swarming myriads haunt 
 
 The herdsman's stalls in spring-time, when new milk 
 
 Has filled the pails — in such vast multitudes 
 
 Mustered the long-haired Greeks upon the plain. 
 
 Impatient to destroy the Trojan race. 
 
 — Homer, Iliad, Book II — Bryant's Translaliov . 
 
 Sea of Marmara, October 18, 1904. 
 
 The steamer lay at Mytilene until 6 a. m. to-day, and then sailed for Constantinople. 
 Shortly after entering the Dardanelles, the plain was passed in which the ancient city of Troy 
 was situated. The site was excavated by Dr. Schliemann, between 1870 and 1891, and nine succes- 
 sive layers of as many differ- 
 ent cities, one built on the 
 ruins of the other, were found. 
 Dr. Schliemann regarded the 
 second layer as that of old 
 Ilion, but later research has 
 conclusively established the 
 fact that the sixth layer is 
 CO -incident with the Myke- 
 nean period, and therefore 
 undoubtedly represents the 
 remains of the city which has 
 become celebrated through 
 Homer's immortal poem. 
 
 After receiving the visit 
 of the Turkish officials at the 
 narrowest part of the Dar- 
 danelles, where some vessels 
 of the Turkish navy lie at 
 anchor, we passed the point 
 where Leander performed his natatorial feats to meet his Hero, and where Lord Byron 
 emulated his illustrious example, and finally emerged in the sea of Marmara. 
 
 AWNING DECK OF S. S. " SCHLESWIG ' 
 
 35 
 
Is that, indeed, Sophia's far-famed dome, 
 Where first the Faith was led in triumph home, 
 Like some high bride, with banner and bright sign, 
 And melody and flowers ? 
 
 — A7cbrey De Vere. 
 
 Constantinople, October 19, 1904. 
 
 This morning, early, on reaching the deck, we found our steamer at anchor off Haidar Pasha, 
 on the Asiatic side of the mouth of the Bosporus. Before us in the distance lav Stamboul, 
 with Seraglio Point in the foreground, decorated with stately cypresses. In the background 
 rose the dome of Agia Sophia with its four slender minarets, to the left the mosque of Sultan 
 Ahmed, and in the dim distance the houses of Galata and Pera rose from the water's edge to the 
 sky-line, while on the right, behind Haidar Pasha, appeared Scutari. The sky was grey and the 
 air misty, blurring the beautiful picture and robbing it of its best eilects. 
 
 After receiving the visits of the Turkish officials, we weighed anchor and slowly entered the 
 Bosporus, passing the Golden Horn, with Stamboul, Galata and Pera on the left, Scutari on 
 
 SOUTHERN ENTRANCE TO THE BOSPORUS, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 the right, and the tower of Leander planted in the crowded water-way of the Bosporub. On 
 the water's edge the long and dazzling palace of Dolma Bagcheh, at one time the official residence 
 of the Sultan, appeared; then, behind and above it, the extensive enclosure of the Yildiz Kiosk, 
 the present residence of Sultan Abdul Hamid. Farther on, in the Bosporus, the steamer passed 
 the palace of Beyler Bey, in which the Empress Eugenie once resided. The hills on either side 
 rose up from the blue water of the Bosporus to a height of some five hundred feet, studded with 
 villas and houses, and green with trees and grass. Then came the old twin forts of Anadoli 
 Hissar and Rumili Hissar, where the Persian King Xerxes once attempted to cross on his way to 
 Greece, and ordered the waters to be whipped because the rapid current had broken his bridge 
 of boats. Palace after palace was passed, many belonging to the Sultan and his relatives; the 
 palace in which the insane predecessor of the present ruler recently died, and another which is 
 the residence of the Sultan's superannuated wives. 
 
 36 
 
PALACE OF DOLMA BAGCHEH, ON THE BOSPORUS 
 
 
 
 
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 RUMILI HISSAR, ON THE BOSPORUS 
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE BOSPORUS FROiM THE BLACK SEA 
 
 37 
 
After passing Therapia, 
 with its summer colony of 
 foreign embassies, and 
 Buyukdere, another collection 
 of summer residences, the 
 steamer finally emerged into 
 the Black Sea, where she 
 turned and again entered the 
 Bosporus from the north. 
 
 The intention had been 
 to land at Anadoli Kavak for 
 the purpose of visiting an old 
 Genoese castle, crowning the 
 height on the Asiatic side, 
 but a rain-storm defeated 
 this plan ; the steamer there- 
 fore continued down the 
 Bosporus to Therapia, where 
 she anchored in order to 
 permit the pilgrims to accept 
 the courteous invitation of the German Ambassador to visit the park of the Embassy's summer 
 residence and to take tea there in the afternoon. Fortunately, the rain ceased, and, although 
 the sun remained under a cloud, the al fresco entertainment was very enjoyable, and a ramble 
 through the wooded park, which was presented to the Emperor by the Sultan, most pleasant. 
 
 Toward evening the pilgrims re-embarked and the steamer sailed down the Bosporus, 
 past its wooded heights and charming villas, to Galata, where she was moored alongside the quay, 
 the great old Galata tower of the Genoese looming high above her. 
 
 GALATA AND STAMBOUL 
 
 SUMMER HOMES ON THE BOSPORUS 
 
 3S 
 
Know yc the land where the cypress and myrtle 
 
 Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime, 
 
 Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle, 
 
 Now melt into sorrow, now madden to crime? 
 
 Know ye the land of the cedar and vine, 
 
 Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine, 
 
 Where the light wings of Zephyr, oppressed with [icrfuiiu-, 
 
 Wax faint o'er the gardens of GUI in her bloom ; 
 
 Where the citron and olive arc fairest of fruit. 
 
 And the voice of the nightingale never is mule; 
 
 Where the tints of the earth, and the hues of the skv, 
 
 In color though varied, in beauty may vie, 
 
 And the purple of Ocean is deepest in dye; 
 
 Where the virgins are soft as the roses ihcy twine, 
 
 And all, save the spirit of man, is divine? 
 
 'Tis the clime of the East; 'tis the Land of the Sun. 
 
 — Byron, "The Bride of Abydo^" Ca>i/o /. 
 
 THE GALATA TOWER. CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 #- 
 
 Constantinople, October 2(J, 1904. 
 For the purpose of greater convenience, the pilgrims were divided into three groups, each 
 group led by several guides and following different routes. The weather, which seemed to be 
 
 threatening rain early in the 
 morning, cleared off soon and 
 the bright sun appeared. 
 Our route took us along the 
 quay to the bridge leading 
 from Galata to Stamboul, an 
 iron construction resting on 
 pontoons, the roadway con- 
 sisting of boards. On this 
 bridge a continuous stream 
 of humanity was crossing, of 
 all types, nationalities and 
 costumes: Turks with their 
 turbans or fez, Circassians in 
 long, flowing coats, bearded 
 Greek popes in black robes 
 with high, black chimney- 
 pots on their heads, under 
 which their long hair fell 
 down on their shoulders, and 
 here and there a veiled woman or a bright military uniform — taken all in all, one of the most 
 striking pictures one can well see. Through the narrow streets of Stamboul our carriage was 
 driven with reckless speed to the Church of St. Sophia, now the chief Mohammedan Mosque. At 
 the entrance we turned into a narrow and steep passage paved with rough stones and leading 
 up to the gallery, from which a comprehensive view of the interior of the church is obtained. 
 This inclined way is in the same condition as when originally built in the 4th Century A. D. 
 The present church edifice itself dates from the year 537 A. D., two previous buildings having 
 been burned. The external appearance of the church is not imposing, but the interior, even in 
 its present condition, with nearly all the magnificent mosaics with which it was embellished 
 painted over by the Mohammedans, is most impressive. Crosses are cut out or have had their 
 arms removed, and the angels and figures of the Saviour and the Virgin have been painted over. 
 Marble reliefs in the side-walls of the church are hidden by enormous green shields covered with 
 
 BRIDGE FROM GALATA TO ST.AMBOUL 
 
 39 
 
SOPHIA, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 sentences from the Koran. 
 The sense of symmetry is 
 somewhat disturbed by the 
 position of the mihrab, or 
 altar, on the side of one of 
 the windows, and the conse- 
 quent diagonal arrangement 
 of the carpets and matting 
 on the floor of the vast edi- 
 fice. This was necessary, as 
 the worshipers in all Moham- 
 medan mosques must face 
 toward Mecca. In the gallery 
 is shown the loge, or section 
 reserved for the Byzantine 
 Emperors in the Christian 
 Church. 
 
 On descending from the 
 gallery to the floor, and pro- 
 viding ourselves with huge 
 
 leather slippers worn over our shoes, we were lost in admiration of the beautiful central dome, 
 which, when seen from the side, appears very high , although it is a flat dome. A number of marble 
 pillars are shown supporting the upper story, which are said to have been brought from the 
 Temple of Diana, at Ephesus ; other columns of dark red porphyry are said to have been taken 
 from the Temple of the Sun, at Baalbek, whence they were brought to Rome by the Emperor 
 Aurelian. All of the capitals of the one hundred and seven columns in the church are Byzantine, 
 and many of them bear the monograms of Justinian or of his Empress, Theodora. 
 
 The principal additions made by the Mohammedans are an octagonal loge, or tribune, for the 
 Sultan, and a similar construction for the teachers and readers of the Koran. Acurios.ity shown 
 to visitors is the sweating column, which is said to exude a moisture to which is attributed 
 miraculous curative power. The Turks regard the column as a cure for the eye diseases common 
 in the Orient, and rub their eyes on this column. A more certain means of propagating the evil 
 can hardly be imagined. 
 
 On the wall of the church is shown the imprint of a hand said to have marked the height to 
 which the conqueror of Constantinople, Sultan Muhammat II, reached when he rode into the 
 
 Basilica over the corpses of 
 thirty thousand Christians 
 who had fled into the sanctu- 
 ary and had been massacred 
 there. In the interest of his- 
 torical truth, it should be said 
 that the correctness of this 
 bloody story is disputed, as it 
 is stated that these Christians 
 were taken captive and were 
 not killed. 
 
 The next object of interest 
 visited was the Mosque of 
 Ahmed I, surrounded by a 
 large court and distinguished 
 by six slender minarets, a 
 larger number than any other 
 mosque, except that at Mecca, 
 possesses. In consequence of 
 
PORPHYRY PILLARS OF ST. SOPHIA 
 
 THE TURKISH FIRE DEPARTMENT 
 
 MOSQUE OF AHMED I, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 41 
 
the objections made by the ecclesiastics of Mecca, a seventh minaret was added to the 
 mosque at Mecca by Sultan Ahmed. The exterior of the mosque of Ahmed, built in 
 1608, is more pleasing than that of St. Sophia, the arrangement of the exterior domes 
 and semi-domes giving an ascending or pyramidal effect to the building, flanked as it is 
 by its six beautiful minarets. The space in the interior is only broken by four enormous pillars 
 which bear the stone roof. The walls and pillars are covered with magnificent Persian faience 
 up to a certain height, above which the tiling seemed to be imiitated in paint. Near the mosque 
 is the mausoleum of Sultan Ahmed I and his thirty-six children, whose bodies are contained 
 in sarcophagi covered with green cloth. Adjoining the mosque is the Hippodrome built 
 by the Emperor Severus as a circus. Nothing is left of the walls, but its site is still marked 
 by an obelisk from Egypt, placed here by Theodosius the Great, on a pedestal with reliefs of 
 
 the Emperor and his family 
 
 iP?I^S^'?^<^H5^^^^T^SM^^H and court. A column formed 
 •■* "' -■•*"*^ 11^^^3 Qf three bronze serpents is 
 
 also seen here, said to have 
 been brought from Delphi 
 and to have been part of 
 the famous tripod. A sub- 
 terranean construction , under 
 the name of the Cisterna 
 Basilica, is shown near here, 
 formerly probably used for 
 secret assemblages, now a 
 water reservoir. The foun- 
 tain of Ahmed III, a beauti- 
 ful little kiosk, is situated 
 near the Mosque of Ahmed. 
 After passing an ancient 
 plantain tree, to which an 
 incredible age is attributed, 
 and which stands in an open 
 space where the Janissaries 
 were exterminated in 1828, 
 we visited the Museum con- 
 taining the celebrated sar- 
 cophagi from Sidon, now 
 Saida, discovered there 
 twelve years ago in under- 
 ground sepulchral chambers 
 by a peasant who was 
 engaged in digging. These 
 sarcophagi date from the 4th 
 Century B. C, and are of 
 one and at the same time 
 reliefs representing on one 
 
 GALLERY OF BYZANTINE EMPEROR, ST. SOPHIA 
 
 the best period of Greek sculpture. The most elaborate 
 the largest, the so-called Alexander Sarcophagus, contains 
 side a hunting scene, and on the other a battle scene, probably the battle of the Issos, in 
 which Alexander defeated the Persians. Alexander himself appears at one end of this relief 
 in his lion's helmet attacking the Persians, while his old General Parmenio, whose face strongly 
 resembles that of the late Field Marshal von Moltke, appears at the other end of the relief taking 
 the Persians in the flank and rear. According to Dr. Wiegand, who led us through the Museum, 
 the prince or king for whom this sarcophagus was made was conquered by Alexander the Great 
 and then became the latter's ally. The fact that the figure of Alexander is not the central one 
 on either side, but rather that of a Persian general or king, seems to corroborate this view. Of 
 the other three sarcophagi one, termed the Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women, shows a graceful 
 
 42 
 
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INTERIOR OF MOSQUE OF AHMED I 
 
 are distinguished by a noble 
 sarcophagus was evidently 
 the last resting-place of a 
 Satrap, or of a high person- 
 age of some distinction. One 
 side shows the ruler in a sit- 
 ting posture, watching the 
 departure of a chariot and 
 horses. The figures of the 
 charioteer about to step into 
 the chariot, and turning back 
 his face in greeting to the 
 king, and of the men holding 
 the horses, are full of life and 
 dignified noble action. The 
 other side represents a hunt- 
 ing-scene, in which a leopard 
 is the quarry. One of the 
 end-panels shows the ruler 
 reclining on a couch and par- 
 taking of food and drink pre- 
 sented to him by his slaves. 
 
 dignity 
 
 composition of beautiful 
 female figures in various atti- 
 tudes suggestive of mourning. 
 The two end-panels of the next 
 one represent the Battle of the 
 Centaurs with the Greeks cel- 
 ebrating the wedding of The- 
 seus. The Centaurs, attract- 
 ed by the odor of the wine, 
 joined the festal party, but, 
 overcome by the fumes of the 
 wine, soon became unruly and 
 attempted to carry off some 
 of the women, which led to 
 a general fight, depicted in 
 these reliefs. The two side- 
 panels of this sarcophagus 
 represent hunting scenes, with 
 a large number of horses, evi- 
 dently the work of an artist 
 who was familiar with the 
 Parthenon pediments, as the 
 horses on this sarcophagus 
 strongly resemble in their 
 attitudes and general execu- 
 tion the horses of the Par- 
 thenon, 
 
 The reliefs of the fourth 
 monument, termed the Satrap 
 Sarcophagus, are perhaps the 
 most attractive and human 
 in their conception. They 
 and simplicity of treatment that appeal to one. The 
 
 FOUNTAIX OF AHMKU 
 
 43 
 
ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS. MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 SATRAP SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 44 
 
SARCOPHAGUS OF THE MOURXINCJ WOMEN MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE^. 
 
 SATRAP SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 ^BIP^ A. 'im^k 
 
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 • W%M^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 f^i^'^lj^J 
 
 ■7 
 
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 4 
 
 
 while his wife, who, according 
 to the custom of those good 
 old times, was not allowed to 
 dine with her husband, sits 
 before him in a dignified pose, 
 evidently directing the move- 
 ments of the slaves On the 
 other end-panel four figures 
 in hunting garb are discussing 
 and mourning the untimely 
 end of the great ruler, who 
 must have been the victim of 
 some accident in the hunting- 
 field. 
 
 Owing to the secure posi- 
 tion in which these noble 
 examples of pure Hellenic art 
 were found, buried deep un- 
 derground, they are in almost 
 perfect condition, which 
 materially adds to the pleasure and interest 
 of the beholder. 
 
 There are many other sculptures of interest 
 in this fine collection, one of which, a boy 
 wrapped in a cloak, evidently resting after 
 some athletic game, is particularly note- 
 worthy. This figure is comparatively well 
 preserved, with the exception of the feet and 
 part of the nose. 
 
 During the afternoon a visit was paid to 
 the Bazar, a series of streets partly arched 
 over with masonry as a protection against 
 fire, in which merchandise and goods of every 
 description are sold by Turks, Armenians, 
 Greeks and Jews. 
 
 A view of Constantinople 
 from the Galata tower com- 
 pleted the day's work. This 
 tower, erected by the Genoese 
 in the 14th Century, and now 
 used as a signal or watch 
 tower by the Fire Depart- 
 ment, offers a magnificent 
 view or panorama of Con- 
 stantinople, the Sea of Mar- 
 mara, the Bosporus and the 
 Golden Horn with the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 In the evening the German 
 Ambassador with his staff 
 took dinner on board and 
 was the guest of honor at 
 a ball arranged by the 
 captain on the upper deck. 
 
 BAZAR CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 45 
 
Between the porphyry pillars that uphold 
 The rich moresque-work of the roof of gold, 
 Aloft the Haram's curtain'd galleries rise, 
 Where through the silken network glancing eyes 
 From time to time, Uke sudden gleams that glow 
 Through autumn clouds, shine o'er the pomp below. 
 
 — Thomas Moore, "Lalla Rookhy 
 
 Constantinople, October 21, 1904. 
 
 A few hours of rest were granted the tired pilgrims this morning, and at 10.30 a. m. every- 
 one turned out in frock coat and high hat for the Selamlik. In a long procession the carriages 
 conveyed the guests, who had received a special invitation from his Majest}^ the Sultan, to attend 
 the ceremonies, to the grounds of the Yildiz Kiosk, where they were passed through a small 
 gate, one by one, after careful inspection by the Turkish officials, to a terrace overlooking the road 
 leading from the palace to the mosque where the Sultan performs his devotions every Friday. 
 One by one, regiment after regiment of infantry and cavalry marched up, with bands playing 
 and colors flying, and lined the route from the palace, while countless officers in gorgeous uni- 
 forms arrived on foot or in carriages and took up their station around the gate at the entrance 
 to the mosque. After a long wait, a number of carts were hurriedly driven up and sand was 
 dumped and spread over the surface of the road, which is on a marked declivit}^ from the palace 
 to the mosque, to prevent the possibility of slipping, everything being done to avoid any delay 
 in the proceedings. Then several court carriages containing princes and princesses drove up, 
 and finally, after another long wait, the Sultan himself appeared in an open carriage sitting on the 
 back seat, an old general in front of him, the carriage preceded and followed by attendants. 
 
 SELAMLIK CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 46 
 
CEREMONY OF SELAMLIK AT MOSQUE D'ORTAKENY 
 
 He passed rapidly down the 
 road to the mosque, the 
 troops presenting arms and 
 shouting "Padisha, tshok 
 yasha" ("Many years to the 
 Great Lord"), while the bands 
 played, and we all removed 
 our hats and made our best 
 bow. As soon as his carriage 
 reached the mosque, the 
 Sultan dismounted and dis- 
 appeared in the building, 
 while everyone outside took 
 his ease. We were bidden to 
 a little garden behind one of 
 the palaces, where the Sultan 
 very graciously had some 
 refreshments provided for us. 
 After half an hour had 
 elapsed, we returned to our 
 post on the terrace, the bands 
 began to play again, the troops formed themselves into line, and the Sultan left the mosque. 
 A low carriage, containing one seat, with two horses, had been brought down from the palace, 
 in which the Sultan seated himself, and, gathering up the reins, drove the carriage out of the 
 yard of the mosque and to the palace, followed by a swarm of some thirty or forty high officers 
 running behind the carriage up the steep hill. 
 
 From the Selamlik we drove back to Pera, alighting at the convent of the Dancing Dervishes, 
 who had begun their religious exercises and were solemnly and slowly walking around an octag- 
 onal enclosure surrounded by a sort of pit which was filled with spectators. After a while, the 
 Dervishes, excited by the music produced by various Turkish instruments, accompanied by a 
 monotonous chant, began to whirl, occasionally stopping to bow to a venerable old man who 
 wore the green turban which distinguishes those who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca. They 
 appeared to be in an ecstacy and continued to whirl in a mechanical waj'' that finally became 
 somewhat tiresome, and, as 
 we had other things to see of 
 greater interest, we left the 
 Dancing Dervishes to their 
 own devices. 
 
 Before returning to the 
 steamer, I paid another visit 
 to St. Sophia, where, as it 
 was the Mohammedan Sun- 
 day, I found a large number 
 of worshipers at prayer, and 
 also circles of men seated on 
 the floor of the mosque who 
 were being instructed in the 
 Koran by readers or teachers 
 — evidently a Mohammedan 
 Sunda}' School. The beauti- 
 ful interior of St. Sophia again 
 vividly impressed itself upon 
 
 me, and I certainly agree fcj„ '^ ^ '^ ~ ^^ ^^ ^ J^~ 
 
 with those who believe that fountaix in courtyard of mosque of ejub, coxstantixople 
 
 47 
 
the interior of this old church 
 is the most beautiful and 
 artistically satisfying one in 
 the world. I endeavored to 
 discover what this beautiful 
 and satisfying effect is based 
 upon, and arrived at the con- 
 clusion that it probably is 
 the arrangement of semi- 
 domes and arches pyramid- 
 ally culminating in the great 
 central dome. 
 
 Returning across the Gal- 
 ata bridge, with its stream of 
 all kinds of humanity under 
 the sun, I arrived on board 
 in time to enjoy the lovely 
 sunset light on Seraglio Point 
 and on distant Scutari. 
 
 DANCING DERVISHES, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 This rose, to calm my brother's cares, 
 A message from the bulbul bears; 
 He says, to-night he will prolong. 
 For Selim's ear, his sweetest song; 
 And though his note be somewhat sad, 
 He'll try for once a strain more glad; 
 In some faint hope his alter'd lay 
 Will sing those gloomy thoughts away, 
 
 — Byron, " The Bride of Ahydos" Canto I. 
 
 Constantinople, October 22, 1904. 
 
 At 8 a. m. a large party of the pilgrims embarked in three of the steamer's boats and were 
 towed by the pinnace under both the Galata bridges up the Golden Horn, through the com- 
 mercial port and the naval port, in which a number of Turkish ironclads were lying, as far as the 
 Mosque of Ejub, in which the Sultan is girded with the sword of Osman when he ascends the 
 throne, and which no Christian has ever been permitted to enter. 
 
 As time forbade it, we did not land, but turned and were towed back to the steamer to pre- 
 pare for a visit to the Imperial Treasury, permission for which had been granted by special 
 order of the Sultan. 
 
 We drove through Stamboul to the Seraglio, which occupies the eastern end of what was once 
 the ancient city of Byzantium and the site of the Acropolis of that city. The Seraglio was the 
 residence of the Sultans until the year 1828, when it was removed to Cheraghan,to Dolma Bagcheh 
 on the Bosporus, and finally to the Yildiz Kiosk. After passing through the Gate of the Pro- 
 cessions, we entered the inner court of the Seraglio, into which no one can go without an order 
 from the Sultan. At the entrance is the Chamber of Execution, where Grand Viziers and Pashas 
 who had incurred the displeasure of the Sultan were seized and executed after leaving the imperial 
 presence. The court is now grass-grown and shaded by trees. At one end is the building 
 containing the Imperial Treasure, where we found an aid-de-camp of the Sultan and the Treasurer 
 with a bodyguard of officials and soldiers. They lined up before a great steel door, and, after an 
 elaborate ceremonial, proceeded to open the door, admitting us into the four large rooms in which 
 the Imperial Treasure, consisting of precious stones, articles of gold and silver and many other 
 interesting and valuable objects, are kept. The first and probably most valuable article 
 that met our view was the Persian Throne captured by the Turks in a war with the Persians 
 in the year 1514. This magnificent piece of furniture is about three feet high above the ground, 
 
 48 
 
and consists of a round platform 
 about five and a lialf feet in 
 diameter with a raised rim 
 twelve inches in height, the 
 whole mounted on substantial 
 legs. The throne and the foot- 
 stool accompanying it were 
 covered with beaten gold, every 
 inch of w h i c h was decorated 
 with thousands and thousands 
 of pearls, emeralds and rubies 
 arranged in arabesques. The 
 size of these stones is nearly 
 one-fourth of an inch in 
 diameter, and the value of each 
 pearl is considered to be about 
 six hundred francs. The total 
 value of the throne is estimated 
 at two million pounds sterling. 
 In another room are kept the 
 costumes of former Sultans, with 
 the enormous turbans that were 
 then worn. All of these cos- 
 tumes and turbans contained 
 stones of fabulous size and 
 value. The oldest costume was 
 that of Muhammad II, the con- 
 queror of Constantinople. His 
 turban showed a large emerald 
 of about the size of a small 
 hen's egg, and the handle of his 
 
 dagger contained three emeralds of the same size. Suleiman II's turban displayed an enormous 
 
 ruby of the same size as Muhammad's emeralds. The other Sultans' head gear, daggers and 
 
 robes were adorned with precious stones of similar size and value. In one of the cabinets is 
 
 exhibited the largest emerald 
 
 in the world, an uncut stone 
 
 of the approximate size of a 
 
 baseball, and in another 
 
 cabinet is the largest pearl, 
 
 about as large as a pigeon's 
 
 egg and irregular in shape. 
 
 This pearl forms part of the 
 
 body of a mannikin, seated 
 
 with crossed legs, constructed 
 
 entirely of precious stones and 
 
 said to be old Persian work. 
 
 Thousands of old gold coins, 
 
 Roman, Byzantine and Arab, 
 
 are exhibited, as well as a large 
 
 collection of weapons enam- 
 eled and encrusted with gems. 
 After dul}^ admiring all this 
 
 magnificence, we were invited 
 
 into the Medjidieh Kiosk, goldex horx, const.\ntinople 
 
 OLD SYCAMORE TREE IN SERAGLIO, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 49 
 
THE NAVAL HARBOR, GOLDEN HORN 
 
 commanding a beautiful view of the Bosporus, where we were offered refreshments, consisting of 
 coffee, sweetmeats and sweetened water, provided by our imperial host, the Sultan. The library, 
 containing about three thousand manuscripts in the Arabic, Persian, Turkish and Greek languages, 
 was then shown us, the only noteworthy feature of which was the old bronze door, and we then 
 entered the Throne Chamber built by Suleiman I, in which the Sultans, in the days of Ottoman 
 supremacy in the East and in a great part of Europe, granted audiences to foreign ambassadors, 
 who humbly approached on a veranda outside a grated window, through which they made known 
 their wishes without being permitted to see the Great Lord himself. The audience-chamber is 
 richly decorated with Persian faience, and contains an enormous divan over which a 
 canopy is spread, supported by gilt columns, formerly' richly encrusted with precious stones 
 which have been removed, 
 and have been replaced by 
 imitations. It is related that 
 it was not until the beginning 
 of the last century that foreign 
 ambassadors were permitted 
 to come in personal contact 
 with the Sultan at these 
 audiences. 
 
 Another building shown 
 was the Baghdad Kiosk, said 
 to have been constructed by 
 Murad IV, who re-conquered 
 Baghdad in the first half of 
 the 17th Century; a little chi- 
 teau, entirely Oriental in char- 
 .acter, the exterior and inte- 
 rior of which are decorated turkish cemetery 
 
 50 
 
with blue faience. The most attractive feature 
 of this charming Kiosk is the beautiful view 
 that it offers, from its windows, of the Bos- 
 porus, the harbor and of the heights beyond, 
 a view that can hardly be excelled. 
 
 A farewell visit to the splendid Sidon Sar- 
 cophagi in the Museum followed, and in the 
 afternoon we joined a party that was organ- 
 ized to drive around the ruined walls of old 
 Byzantium, under tlie leadership of a guide. 
 We began by driving along the Golden Horn 
 on the Stamboul side, tlirough the Jewish and 
 Greek quarters to the starting-point of the 
 wall on the Golden Horn, and followed it along 
 its course, which lies across the promontory, 
 to the Sea of Marmara. The wall really con- 
 sists of an outside moat, which is about 05 
 feet wide, and is now partly filled up ; then fol- 
 lows a breastwork with a rampart, then a 
 higher outer wall with another rampart, be- 
 hind which comes the high inner or city wall 
 proper. Towers were erected at very frequent 
 intervals along both the inner and outerwalls. 
 These fortifications, although much shaken 
 by earthquakes, can be distinctly traced 
 through their whole course and are still in a 
 
 ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTAXTINOPLE 
 
 ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 tolerable state of preservation, except where 
 the breach was made by the Turks when they 
 took the city in 1453, under Muhammad II. 
 
 At the Adrianople gate we made a detour 
 into the city to visit the church of the Monas- 
 tery of the Chora, which is particularly inter- 
 esting on account of the mosaics in the nar- 
 thex, formerly whitewashed or painted over, 
 but now partly uncovered. The plan of the 
 church, the foundations of which date back to 
 the 5th Century A. D.,and which was re-built 
 in the 7th Century, is said to have served as 
 a model for St. Mark's in Venice. Its mosaics 
 are much later than the church itself, proba- 
 bly of the IStli to the 15th Century. The church 
 proper is now a mosque, and its interior has, 
 of course, been entirely whitewashed over, to 
 conceal the mosaics with which it is covered, 
 the figures of which are an abomination to a 
 Mohammedan ; but, on the occasion of the visit 
 of the German Emperor, the impressions of two 
 mosaics, the stones of which had been re- 
 moved, representing the Saviour, were cleared 
 of whitewash and provided with wooden shut- 
 ters, which are closed when religious services 
 are held. 
 
 51 
 
We continue'd our drive 
 over a very rough road along 
 the walls, which were illumi- 
 nated by the rays of the 
 setting sun, and finally re- 
 entered the city through the 
 Golden Gate, passing the 
 Seven Towers which were 
 built by Muhammad II, and 
 of which only four are now 
 left. It was used as a kind 
 of Bastile, and in it the 
 Janissaries during their 
 period of power confined the 
 Sultans that they had de- 
 throned. In former years, 
 when the Ottoman Empire 
 declared war upon any foreign 
 state, the ambassador of that ancient wall of Constantinople 
 
 state was imprisoned here. The French Ambassador was the last one to experience this 
 treatment, in 1798. In a small open court of the tower the executions took place, and, as 
 the heads were piled up here, the court is called the Place of Heads. A hole is also shown 
 into which the heads of the unfortunates who had been executed were thrown. This hole is 
 appropriately named "The Well of Blood." Near it are the dungeons in which the condemned 
 were kept, and an adjoining place, called "The Rocky Cavern," is still shown, which was 
 formerly the torture chamber. On leaving this bloody pile behind, we drove through the city 
 past some low-lying ground that was formerly part of the harbor, to the old Galata bridge, 
 and the steamer. 
 
 IMTERIOR OF SEVEN TOWERS, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 52 
 
 And we glode fast o'er a pellucid plain 
 Of waters, azure with the noontide ray. 
 Ethereal mountains shone around — a fane 
 Stood in the midst, beyond green isles which lay 
 On the blue sunny deep, resplendent far away. 
 
 — Shelley. 
 
 At Sea, October 23, 1904. 
 Our steamer left the 
 quay at Galata this morning 
 at 8 o'clock, and, passing 
 Seraglio Point, with its 
 cypresses and white build- 
 ings, behind which St. Sophia 
 appeared to bid us good-by, 
 we reached the Princes 
 Islands at 9 a. m. and 
 anchored there, to permit 
 those who desired to do so 
 to go ashore and visit this 
 famous summer resort of the 
 Byzantine Emperors, which 
 was also the place to which 
 objectionable emperors and 
 inconvenient princes were 
 banished, generally after their 
 
en 
 
 D 
 OS 
 O 
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 en 
 O 
 
 CQ 
 UJ 
 
 X 
 H 
 
 Li. 
 
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 > 
 
eyes had been put out. Carriages took the party around the principal ishmd of Prinkipo 
 and, after re-embarkation, the steamer set sail through the Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles 
 for Pirasus. 
 
 ANCII'.Xr liVZAXTIM W \LI 
 
 NM'AxrixiiPLi-; 
 
 slow sinks, more lovely ere his race Ijc run, 
 
 Along Morca's lulls the setting sun; 
 
 Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright. 
 
 But one unclouded blaze of living light! 
 
 O'er the hush'd deep the yellow beam he throws 
 
 Gilds the green wave that trembles as it glows. 
 
 On old .'Egina's rock and Idra's isle, 
 
 The god of gladness sheds his parting smile; 
 
 O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, 
 
 Though there his altars are no more divine. 
 
 Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss 
 
 Thy glorious gulf, unconquer'd .Salamis! 
 
 Their azure arches through the long expanse 
 
 More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance, 
 
 And tenderest tints, along their summits driven, 
 
 Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven; 
 
 Till darkly shaded from the land and deep, 
 
 Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep. 
 
 — Byron, ''The Corsair,'''' Canto Iff. 
 
 Athens, Piraeus, October 24, 1904. 
 Under a sunny sky and over glassy seas the steamer plowed her way through the islands 
 of the ^-Egean, and, passing the bold promontorj^ of Cape Sunium, on the summit of which the 
 white Doric columns and entablature of a Temple of Athene stand out in bold relief, stopped off 
 Pirseus, and, having complied with quarantine regulations, steamed around the point to Phaleron, 
 where she anchored and disembarked the pilgrims for a farewell visit to the Acropolis. We 
 arrived before the entrance of the Acropolis as the rays of the setting sun were gilding the white 
 pillars of the Propylasa, and stood in silent wonder before the small temple of Athene Nike, to 
 the right of the Propylaga, whence the west front of the Parthenon is best seen, but the sun unfor- 
 tunately soon disappeared behind gathering clouds and we lost the full sunset effect. However, 
 the majestic influence of the Parthenon and the Erechtheion held us all in admiration and awe 
 until the gathering darkness and the impatient hints of the keepers forced us to retreat, when we 
 took carriage to the hotel. 
 
 After dinner the full moon appeared, although rather feebly shining through the misty 
 atmosphere; but, in the hope that the clouds would soon be dissipated, we again wended our way 
 to the Acropolis, and we were not disappointed. The effect of the moon's rays on the white 
 pillars of the Propylaea and on the east front of the Parthenon cannot be adequately described. 
 It softened all lines and imperfections and brought out marvelously the beautiful proportions 
 of these immortal ruins and the pink tints of the Parthenon front. A solemn and 
 
 hushed feeling came over the 
 crowds that had been attract- 
 ed to the Acropolis by the 
 moonlight, and no one dared 
 to speak above a whisper. 
 It was as if the ghost of the 
 mighty past of this venerable 
 pile had arisen and revivified 
 the scarred ruins. Reluc- 
 tantlv we departed, in order 
 to return to the steamer, 
 which at midnight left her 
 anchorage ofT Phaleron and 
 
 VIEW OF P.ARTHENOX IRoM THK TEMPLE OF .\THEXE NIKE Sailed for NaUplia. 
 
 53 
 
' yj> M 
 
 
 
 
 \IL\\ or lAbT TRONf OI P\R1IIEN0\ 
 
 Erst regierte Saturnus schlicht und 
 
 gerecht, 
 Da war es heute wie morgen, 
 Da lebten die Hirten, ein harmlos 
 
 Geschlecht, 
 Und brauchten fiir gar nichts zu sorgen. 
 Sie liebten und thaten weiter nichts 
 
 mehr 
 Die Erde gab AUes freiwillig her. 
 
 Drauf kam die Arbeit, der Kampf 
 
 begann 
 Mit Ungeheuern und Drachen, 
 Und die Heldenfingen, die Herrscher, an, 
 Und den Machtigen suchten die 
 
 Schwachen. 
 Und der Strait zog in des Skamanders Feld, 
 Doch die Schonheit war imnier der Gott der Welt. 
 
 — Schiller, "Die vier IVeltaller." 
 
 Nauplia, October 25, 1904. 
 On anchoring in the beautiful bay of NaupHa, we had before us the pretty city of the same 
 
 name, lying at the foot of a steep hill and surrounded by high mountains which sweep in a vast 
 
 semi-circle around the head of the bay, 
 retreating towards the north, where a level 
 foreshore stretches up to the distant hills. 
 To the east and immediately above the city 
 towers a crag seven hundred feet in height, 
 on which the walls of a fortress frown down 
 upon the Acropolis of Nauplia far below. 
 This fortress, built by the Venetians, is now 
 used as a prison. 
 
 Favored with fine weather, we disem- 
 barked in four boats, as usual, and proceeded 
 to the railroad station, where a special train 
 was in waiting that conveyed us to Mykenas- 
 Fichtia, in about an hour. Carriages were 
 taken here, and, after half an hour's ride over 
 a good carriage road, we came upon the site 
 
 of the pre-historic Acropolis of Mykense, the ancient seat of Atreus and of Agamemnon. 
 
 The massive walls, formed of enormous blocks of stone, are still intact in many places, and a 
 
 passage-way flanked by walls built of great stones leads up to the celebrated Lions' Gate. This 
 
 doorway is constructed of two stones ten and 
 
 one-half feet high supporting a lintel which 
 
 consists of one huge block sixteen and one- 
 half feet long, eight feet broad and more than 
 
 three feet thick. How the ancients, who did 
 
 not even know the use of blocks, managed 
 
 to handle such enormous weights, is still an 
 
 unsolved marvel. The side-posts, lintel and 
 
 sill are provided with holes, which were used 
 
 to insert beams for the purpose of barricad- 
 ing the gates when closed. Over the lintel 
 
 a triangular opening was left in the wall for 
 
 the purpose of reducing the weight on the 
 
 lintel, and in this triangular opening a slab is 
 
 inserted ten feet high and twelve feet broad 
 
 at the base, on which is sculptured the well- country near myken^ 
 
 VIEW FROM IX 
 
 54 
 
APPROACH TO LIOXS' GATE, MYKEN.E 
 
 known relief which has given this gate its name, namely, two lions erect on their hind legs, 
 
 their front feet resting on an altar, above which a column rises crowned with a capital. The 
 
 heads of the lions, which were made of separate pieces, as was frequently the case in ancient 
 
 sculptures, are now lacking. The lions were undoubtedly watching the approach to the gate 
 
 and guarding their master's house and altar. 
 
 After entering through the gate, we saw lo the right a double circle of u]M-ight slabs of a 
 
 diameter of eighty feet in a depressed level space. In this enclosure Dr. Schliemann made his 
 
 remarkable discoveries of the royal tombs 
 containing the vast collection of gold orna- 
 ments and utensils of various kinds which is 
 now deposited in the National Museum at 
 Athens. The space enclosed in this circle 
 was evidently the meeting-place, and in it 
 the royal personages, probably among them 
 Agamemnon, were buried. The summit of 
 the Acropolis, which we now ascended, was 
 the site of the royal palace itself, but very 
 little of its foundations is left, as a landslip 
 has carried away the retaining walls built on 
 the precipitous side of the rocky eminence, 
 and in the course of the ages the materials of 
 
 which the palace was constructed have been washed away or have fallen into the deep ravine 
 
 below. Various illustrations of the peculiar system of arch construction of the pre-historic race 
 
 that inhabited these parts — one stone placed horizontally 
 
 upon the other, but each added stone projecting further than 
 
 the lower one until the arch was completed — were seen in 
 
 the course of our wanderings over the site of this ancient 
 
 fortress. Near the gate we found a perfectly preserved, large, 
 
 cemented cistern in which there was a supply of fresh water 
 
 brought down from a spring outside the walls through an 
 
 ancient underground aqueduct. 
 
 On leaving the Acropolis we passed a vaulted sepulchre, 
 
 which was partly excavated by Mrs. Schliemann and entirely 
 
 unearthed by the Greek Archaeological Society, known as the 
 
 Treasure House of Klvtaemnestra. This sepulchre consists 
 
 of a passage-way lined with masonry construction of huge 
 
 blocks leading into a high-domed circular chamber, the 
 
 arched dome built in the same style as the arches on the Acropolis. The upper part of the dome 
 
 has fallen in, and the Treasure House is somewhat dilapidated. Of greater interest is the so- 
 called Treasure House of Atreus, another 
 sepulchre of similar construction, which is 
 situated a little farther on at the side of the 
 road. This Treasure House is also called the 
 Tomb of Agamemnon, but it is now generally 
 held that Agamemnon's tomb was in the 
 royal circle in the Acropolis, and the 
 archaeologists assign a later date to these 
 outside sepulchres. The vaulted dome of 
 the Treasure House of Atreus is intact and 
 presents an imposing appearance. Its walls 
 were originally decorated with metal shields, 
 or bosses, as is evident from the large number 
 of small holes appearing at regular intervals 
 INTERIOR OF ACROPOLIS, MYKEx.E ^^ the stones of the dome, in some of which 
 
 LIONS' G.\TE, MyKEN.E 
 
 55 
 
SUMMIT OF ACROPOLIS, MYK 
 
 iV^'M 
 
 holes bronze nails have been found. The apex 
 
 of the dome is some sixty feet in height, and 
 
 its diameter on the floor about fifty feet. On 
 
 one side is a doorway leading into a dark side- 
 chamber, which was the tomb proper. After 
 
 completing our inspection of these tombs, the 
 
 carriages conveyed us to the village of Fichtia, 
 
 where a sumptuous lunch al fresco had been 
 
 prepared by the industrious stewards, under 
 
 the direction of their chief, in the usual ship- 
 shape manner. We then betook ourselves to 
 
 the station near by, where our special train was waiting, and were carried to Tirj'ns, near Nauplia. 
 Here Dr. Schrader, who had explained the Mykenean excavations to us, again undertook 
 
 the leadership, and we climbed up the cyclopean mass of masonry that composed this pre-his- 
 
 toric old palace, and, beginning at the ancient 
 entrance-gate, were conducted through the por- 
 tion of the citadel excavated by Dr. Schliemann. 
 We were shown the sills and sides of the great 
 gates and doors, the entrance-hall and the large 
 hall of the megaron, or men's apartment, in the 
 centre of which were the bases of four pillars 
 which bore the roof, while in the square be- 
 tween them was the open fire-place, the smoke 
 escaping through the roof, the centre of which 
 was undoubtedly raised on the four columns 
 above the part of the roof covering the sides of 
 the hall. The bathroom adjoining the men's 
 apartment contains one immense slab of black 
 limestone laid on an incline toward one corner, 
 in which an outlet is cut to allow the water to 
 run off. On the other side of the men's apart- 
 or the harem, resembling the megaron, but smaller. 
 
 Around the castle and built into the massive outside wall is a series of store rooms with vaulted 
 
 roofs and reached by similarly constructed passage-ways from the interior of the palace. 
 The entire construction of 
 
 Tiryns as well as Myken^ 
 
 showed the facility with 
 
 which these old builders 
 
 handled the great blocks of 
 
 stone that they employed in 
 
 their constructions in pref- 
 erence to smaller units. 
 
 Another fact brought to our 
 
 attention in these pre-historic 
 
 ruins, and also in those of 
 
 Knosos, was the employment 
 
 of wood as the material for 
 
 their columns, instead of 
 
 stone, as was evidenced by 
 
 the surface of the bases of the 
 
 columns and the traces of fire 
 
 which are discoverable on 
 
 these bases, showing that the 
 
 palaces and their columns 
 
 were destroyed by fire. 
 
 SO-CALLED TOMB OF AGAMEMNON 
 
 ment are the women's apartments. 
 
 ANCIENT ARCH CONSTRUCTION, MYKEN^ 
 
 56 
 
CYCLOPEAN WALL, TIRVNS 
 
 WALLS OF TIRYXS 
 
 VIEW FROM ACROPOLIS OF TIRYNS 
 
 BASTIONS OF MALIA 
 
 57 
 
The excavation of Mykenae and Tiryns uncovered the first traces of an old pre-historic 
 civiHzation far antedating the remains of Greek culture that had previously been known. The 
 period of this civilization, which has been quite reliably placed between 1500 and 1300 B. C, 
 by the discovery of Egyptian objects in the excavations bearing the exact date, has been uni- 
 versally termed the Mykenean period. Within the last few years the excavations at Knosos, in 
 Crete, which go back five hundred years farther, have shown that the Mykenean period in Greece 
 was preceded by still an earlier civilization in Crete, and the archaeologists are now endeavoring 
 to ascertain, by excavating the layers that 
 underlie the constructions of Tiryns, Mykense 
 and other pre-historic sites, what bearing 
 this earlier Cretan civilization had upon 
 conditions in Greece. In examining these 
 layers, each bit of broken pottery is classified 
 and referred to its proper epoch by scientific 
 investigators, and each year establishes an 
 advance in the discoveries made by archaeo- 
 logical research in the realm of the history of 
 human civilization. 
 
 From Tiryns we returned to the steamer, 
 anchored off Nauplia, and, bidding good-by 
 to Dr. Schrader, we steamed south toward 
 Malta. 
 
 COSTUME OF MALTESE WOMAN 
 
 Far within the ocean lies 
 An island named Ogygia, where abides 
 Calypso, artful goddess, with bright locks. 
 Daughter of Atlas, and of dreaded power. 
 No God consorts with her, nor any one 
 Of mortal birth. But me in my distress 
 Some god conveyed alone to her abode. 
 When, launching his white Ughtning, Jupiter 
 Had cloven in the midst of the black sea 
 My galley. 
 — Homer, Odyssey, Book VII — Bryant's Translation. 
 
 Malta, October 27, 1904. 
 After a sail of about thirty-six hours, we 
 entered the fine, rock-bound harbor of Malta 
 .at 7 a. m. to-day, and were agreeably surprised to note the attractive appearance of the city of 
 Valetta, and the animated picture of the amphitheatrical harbor, in which commercial vessels 
 and men-of-war were anchored, the light color of the buildings and high fortress walls con- 
 trasting pleasantly with the 
 blue water. On landing, we 
 entered the small Maltese 
 carriages that were in wait- 
 ing and drove to the Cathe- 
 dral of San Giovanni .which is 
 richly decorated with monu- 
 ments erected to the memory 
 of Grand Masters and Knights 
 of the Order of St. John, or 
 of Malta, who received the 
 island from the Emperor 
 Charles V, in 1530, when the 
 Turks drove them from the 
 island of Rhodos, and held it 
 
 liOAT.S I.\ HARB(JR OF MALTA 
 
 58 
 
until Napoleon took it from 
 them in 179S. Besides one 
 genuine, and another alleged, 
 Caravaggio, the church con- 
 tains little of any artistic 
 merit or interest. 
 
 After enjoying the superb 
 views of the Great Harbor 
 from the Barracca Superiore 
 and of the smaller harbor on 
 the other side of the promon- 
 tory, from one of the bastions, 
 and passing through the Pal- 
 ace of the Governor, which 
 contains nothing remarkable, 
 the company separated to 
 explore various parts of the 
 city and to purchase the 
 articles for which Malta is 
 famous. 
 
 In the afternoon man)' of 
 the pilgrims paid a visit to a 
 cathedral-like church in the 
 suburbs, which proved disap- 
 pointing, and then passed on 
 to the country residence of 
 the Governor at Sant' An- 
 tonio, the well-kept garden 
 of which excited their admira- 
 tion and delight by reason of 
 the beautiful collection of 
 flowers and plants of the 
 most varied description that 
 it contained. In driving to this country palace and returning, we had occasion to observe the 
 great extent to which the Maltese have converted the surface of their rocky island into fertile 
 soil, on which they grow figs, oranges, lemons and all kinds of vegetables. 
 
 We regretfully bade good-by to Malta, which rightfully came within the sphere of our 
 interest, as not only does the fable designate it as the island Ogygia, the seat of the nymph 
 Calypso, who ensnared the wandering Odysseus, but it still shows traces of the earliest civiliza- 
 tion known to have existed in the Mediterranean and co-eval with the culture periods of Crete 
 and of Mykenas. 
 
 STREET IN" MALT.^ 
 
 Ortygia, thou all-hallowed breathing place 
 Where Alpheus lifts his weary head; 
 Siracusa's bloomy grace 
 Deles' sister; Dian's bed. 
 
 — Pindar, Nem. I— Carey's Translation. 
 
 Siracusa, October 31, 1904. 
 
 On arrival at Catania in the morning of October 28, Gus and I bade good-by to our 
 fellow-voyagers and left the steamer on which we had made our honie for nearly four weeks, 
 intending to spend a number of days in Sicily, while our fellow-passengers, after a few days in 
 Taormina and Palermo, were to continue their trip on the steamer via Naples to Genoa. 
 
 59 
 
THE \TLLA POLITI COVERED WITH FLOWERS 
 
 We visited the catliedral and the garden 
 
 of the Villa Bellini, in Catania, and then took 
 
 the train for Siracusa, where we arrived in 
 
 time to enjoy the sunset view from the old 
 
 Greek theatre. We found a welcome in the 
 
 Hotel Villa Politi, situated outside of the 
 
 present city of Siracusa, and built on the 
 
 brink of one of the interesting ancient 
 
 quarries known as " Latomie," from which 
 
 the Siracusans obtained the limestone used 
 
 in the construction of their city centuries 
 
 before our era. 
 
 The bottom of the Latomia dei Cappu- 
 
 cini, seventy-five feet deep, on which the hotel 
 
 is situated, is now filled with orange and 
 
 lemon trees and flowers, the edges are covered with profuse and luxuriant vegetation, and the 
 
 white sides of the Latomia are dotted here and there with bunches of green bushes, grass and 
 
 vines. In the clear evening light the scene is a singularly beautiful and peaceful one, and it is 
 
 with difficulty that one can recall the awful tragedy enacted two thousand four hundred years 
 
 ago in this very Latomia, into which seven thousand Athenians were cast by the victorious 
 
 Siracusans, to die a slow and lingering death. 
 
 The approach to the hotel is through a garden filled with vines and flowers, and the stone 
 
 veranda in front of the hotel, 
 some twelve feet high and 
 fifty feet long, is covered 
 with blue, red and pink 
 flowers and green vines in 
 profusion, presenting a most 
 attractive picture to the 
 traveler from regions where 
 vegetation is rare and far 
 between. 
 
 The only part of Siracusa 
 now still standing is situated 
 on the island of Ortygia. 
 There are but few relics of 
 the days of Siracusa' s glory 
 to be seen there. The ruins 
 of a Temple of Diana, now 
 believed to have been a 
 Temple of Apollo, have been 
 partly excavated, the archi- 
 tecture of which marks it 
 as of very early construction, 
 probably of the 6th Century 
 B. C. The Doric columns of 
 an old Temple of Athene, 
 probably of slightly later 
 date, have been built into 
 the cathedral, or, rather, the 
 walls of the cathedral have 
 been built between the old 
 columns, of which twenty- 
 two are visible. 
 
 THE LATOMIA DEI CAPPUCINI 
 
 60 
 

 
 *..'?■ 
 
 The Fountain of Arethusa, 
 on the shore of the harbor, 
 near the cathedral, according 
 to tradition, marks the spot 
 where the nymph Arethusa, 
 pursued by the river-god 
 Alplicus, was turned into a 
 fountain by the jroddess 
 Diana. 
 
 The Museum contains an in- 
 teresting collection of prehis- 
 toric Sicilian remains, chiefly 
 found in old sepulchres, also 
 a valuable and noteworthy 
 collection of Greek Sicilian 
 coins of the 5th and later 
 centuries B. C. One of the 
 rooms contains a well-pre- 
 served statue of Venus Ana- 
 
 dyomene, the head and right arm only of which are lacking, of the best period of late Greek art. 
 
 A colossal head of Poseidon, a number of sarcophagi, Christian, Greek and pre-historic, terra 
 
 cotta figures and tomb-reliefs are also part of this small but admirably arranged Museum. 
 
 The old Greek theatre, hewn into the natural rock and erected in the 5th Century B.C., 
 
 was particularly attractive in the glow of the sunset, when, standing on the upper range of seats, 
 
 the panorama of Siracusa with its harbor lay spread out before us, the beautiful, clear evening 
 
 light and the pure air rendering every distant object singularly distinct. 
 
 The Latomia del Paradiso, with its Ear of Dionysius, a grotto specially constructed by the 
 
 tyrant, according to tradition, to enable him to detect any word spoken by his prisoners 
 
 .Cr^SKS^. 
 
 THK LATOMIA DEL I'ARAD1S(_). SIRACUSA 
 
 STATUE OF VEXUS AN.\nyOMEXE, 
 L\ MUSEUM .\T SIRACUSA 
 
 THE "E.\R OF DIONYSIUS' 
 
 61 
 
GREEK THEATRE, SIRACUSA 
 
 THE OLD ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE, SIRACUSA 
 
 62 
 
confined in the Latomia below; the Roman Amphitheatre, constructed under Augustus; and the 
 great altar of Hiero II, more than six hundred feet in length and seventy-five feet in width, on 
 which four hundred and fifty oxen were sacrificed annually to commemorate the expulsion of 
 the tyrant Thrasybulos, all situated near the theatre, were points of interest visited by us. 
 
 We undertook a long walk in beautiful weather to Fort Euryelos, northwest of Siracusa, 
 and formerly part of the city and its Acropolis. It was erected at the end of the 5th and 
 
 beginning of the 4th Century B. C, by the 
 tyrant Dionysius. Little is now left of the 
 fortress except five towers built over deep 
 moats hewn in the rock, and remains of the 
 walls that surrounded the fortress and thence 
 extended around the city. From the ruined 
 walls of the fortress we had an excellent view 
 of Mount Etna, fifty miles away, such was 
 the clearness of the atmosphere. An ancient 
 aqueduct, that formerly supplied the fort 
 and continued from the fort to the city, 
 is in an excellent state of preservation, and water still runs through it. 
 
 The fine weather that has favored us so far and has made our stay here so pleasant has 
 changed to rain, but we shall leave with regret the flowers, oleanders and lemon trees that scent 
 the air of Siracusa. 
 
 \ I£\V FROM I'ORT EURYKLOS 
 
 Say, hast thou tracked a traveller's round, 
 Nor visions met thee there 
 
 Thou couldst but marvel to have found 
 This blighted world so fair ? 
 
 And feel an awe within thee rise, 
 That sinful man should see 
 
 Glories far worthier seraph's eyes 
 Than to be shared by thee ? 
 
 —John Henry Newman. 
 
 Taormina, November 2, 1904. 
 We arrived here October 31, in a doleful rainstorm, and have been pursued by indifferent 
 and showery weather ever since. Etna has not favored us with a glimpse of her snow-capped 
 summit, and w-e have only had fleeting views of the snow-fields near the top of the great mountain, 
 
 the "prop of heaven," as 
 Pindar called it, through rifts 
 in the clouds gathered around 
 and over it. We have taken 
 advantage of some hours of 
 freedom from rain to visit 
 the well-known Greek theatre 
 immediately behind and 
 above our hotel, the Timeo. 
 This theatre, in its present 
 form, is more Roman in con- 
 struction than Greek, as it 
 was extensively restored in 
 the Roman period. The loca- 
 tion of the theatre is its 
 striking feature, for it over- 
 looks the bold coast-line 
 VIEW TO THE NORTH FROM GREEK THEATRE both north and south from 
 
 63 
 
its commanding position, seven hundred feet above the sea, and presents a superb view to the 
 south of Etna, the valley of Alcantara and the intervening mountains, Taormina on the right, 
 and the white coast-line and the blue sea on the left. Turning to the north, the old Greeks and 
 Romans could, in the intermissions of their 
 plays, from the upper galleries, enjoy an 
 unobstructed view of the coast toward 
 Messina, the sea and the range of Calabrian 
 Mountains on the distant Italian continent. 
 During another temporary cessation of 
 rain, we climbed to the top of Mola, a rather 
 dirty village which crowns the summit of a 
 steep mountain overhanging Taormina. Its 
 height is about two thousand feet, and it 
 commands a magnificent view up and down 
 the coast, of Etna and its satellites, as well 
 as of the Calabrian Mountains beyond the 
 Straits of Messina. 
 
 A SICILIAN CART 
 
 Sicily, in the centre of the Mediterranean, has been throughout all history the meeting- 
 place and battle-ground of the races that contributed to civilize the West. 
 
 It was here that the Greeks measured their strength against Phoenicia, and that Car- 
 thage fought her iirst duel rath Rome. Here the bravery of the Hellenes triumphed over 
 barbarian force in the victories of Gelon and Timoleon. 
 
 —J. A. Symonds, "Sketches in Ilaly and Greece.'' 
 
 Palermo, November 7, 1904. 
 Leaving Taormina November 3, we came along the east coast through Messina, a town of 
 very little interest, and then skirting the picturesque north coast of the island, we passed the 
 
 ancient town of Myls, now Milazzo, a Greek 
 colony founded in 716 B. C, and Cefalfi, 
 celebrated for its Norman cathedral, which 
 contains well-preserved mosaics, said to be 
 the oldest in Sicily. To the north the islands 
 of Lipari appeared, chief among which is the 
 smoking cone of Stromboli, once the seat of 
 ^f^-olus, the god of the winds. 
 
 Showers of rain swept across the land and 
 sea from time to time, but, as we approached 
 Palermo, in the afternoon, the sun came out 
 of the clouds and favored us with a magnifi- 
 cent view of the beautiful bay of Palermo, 
 encircled on three sides by mountains. 
 
 We found a huge package of letters and 
 papers awaiting us here that kept us busy 
 the rest of the, day. The next morning we 
 sallied forth for a visit to the National 
 Museum, chiefly for the purpose of examining 
 the celebrated metopes from the temples of 
 Selinus, on the southwestern coast of Sicily, 
 a Greek colony founded in 628 B.C., and 
 destroyed in 409 B. C. 
 
 The metopes are particularly interesting, as 
 
 they extend from the earliest period of archaic 
 
 RELIEF OF PERSEUS BEHEADING THE MEDUSA. art to the period Immediately preceding the 
 
 ARCHAIC METOPE FROM SELINUS 
 
 64 
 
culiuiiuiUoii ol Ciivok art. Tlio earliest lluve metopes, of the (ith Century, consist of a (luad- 
 riga, Perseus belieading the Medusa, and Hercules in his contest with the Cyclopes, 
 respectively. TJie figures of these three metopes show \-cry primitive conception and execu- 
 tion, and are almost grotesque in their exaggeration. Then follow fragments of two later 
 metopes showing an advance in artistic spirit, while tlic four last metopes, of the 5th 
 
 Century, consisting of representations of 
 Hercules slaying Hippolyta the Amazon, 
 Zeus and Hera on Mount Ida in Crete, Diana 
 and Actaeon, and Athene slaying Enceladus 
 exhibit a marked improvement both in dis- 
 position of the figures and in the execution 
 of the details of sculpture. There are many 
 other interesting ancient sculptures and 
 remains of Sicilian civilization contained in 
 this Museum, the collections of which are 
 well arranged in an old monastery with 
 picturesque courts and cloisters. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited the Cathedral 
 and ancient Benedictine Monastery of 
 Monreale, from the heights of which there 
 is a superb view of the famous Conca d'Oro, the green and fertile valle)^ filled with orange 
 and lemon trees, which sweeps down between high mountains to the sea, spreading out 
 its verdure around Palermo. The Cathedral, completed by William II in 1189, still 
 contains a wealth of mosaics which cover its walls. Its roof was burnt in the last cen- 
 tury and has been rebuilt; a large number of mosaics which were injured or destroyed in the 
 
 PIsr.WT VIEW (IF TKMPLE OF SEGEST.X 
 
 ^-■»«***i^: 
 
 
 
 65 
 
RELIEF OF QUADRIGA. METOPE FROM SELINUS 
 
 RELIEF OF HERCULES SLAYING HIPPOLYTA. 
 METOPE FROM SELINUS 
 
 RELIEF OF ZEUS AND HERA. METOPE FROM SELINUS RELIEF OF DIANA AND ACT;EON. METOPE FROM SELINUS 
 
 66 
 
 L.ofC. 
 
< 
 
 a. 
 
 <■ 
 
 f- 
 co 
 
 UJ 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 ul 
 _) 
 
 Q- 
 UJ 
 
 I- 
 
cnnflaRrntion have also been renewed. Of the monastery which joins the Cathedral the only 
 noteworthy remains are the cloisters, which contain two hundred and sixteen columns, formerly 
 adorned with rich mosaics, which were picked out and stolen when the monastery was used as 
 a barracks. The capitals of these columns are sculptured with scriptural representations, each 
 capital varying from the other. 
 
 On the 5th we undertook an excursion to the ruins of Segesta, the site of one of the oldest 
 towns in Sicily, built and inhabited by the original Sicilians until destroyed. The town never 
 became Greek, although Greek art and Greek civilization exerted a commanding influence over 
 its people. After almost constant warfare with the Greek colonies in Sicily, the city was destroyed 
 at an early date, and nothing is now left of the populous town, which, with its dependencies, is 
 said to have contained one hundred and eighty thousand inhabitants, except a fine Doric temple, 
 a Greek theatre and a few substructures and foundations of walls scattered here and there. 
 
 CLOISTERS. MONASTERY OF MONREALE 
 
 The train, starting at a very early hour in the morning from Palermo, took us to Castel- 
 lammare Golfo, where we arrived at 8 a. m. and found a carriage ready for us. The road from 
 Castellammare to Segesta, although shadeless, is picturesque, as it presents a fine panorama of 
 the mountainous country. The route follows a well-cultivated valley dotted with farms and 
 olive orchards, and, from a distance, long before reaching Segesta, after a drive of about two 
 hours, the lonely temple appears high on the mountain side. 
 
 When opposite the site of old Segesta, on the other side of the valley, we dismounted from 
 our carriage and were conducted across a fiumara, or water-course, which was easily forded, but 
 which, when running full, must present a rather formidable obstacle to travelers. A very poor 
 and rough path up the side of the valley led in half an hour's time to the Custodian's house, the 
 surroundings of which are anything but pleasant. Leaving our luncheon basket here under the 
 guard of its bearer, we mounted in twenty minutes to the temple, which is situated on a hill to 
 the west of the site of the old town. The position of this old temple, which reminds one of 
 
 67 
 
the Temple of Neptune ' at 
 
 Paestum, is impressive, placed 
 
 in its solitary grandeur on 
 
 a hill which slopes gently to 
 
 the east, but to the west 
 
 falls off precipitously several 
 
 hundred feet into a chasm, or 
 
 gorge, while above it tower 
 
 the grey mountains. 
 
 The temple, built in the 
 
 5th Century B. C, is slightly 
 
 larger than the Temple of 
 
 Neptune at Paestum, but, 
 
 unlike the latter, it never 
 
 was completed, as its columns 
 
 are unfiuted and the projec- 
 tions on the stones for pur- 
 poses of transportation and 
 
 erection were left unremoved. 
 
 The columns and the entabla- 
 ture are in situ, but have 
 
 suffered from the ravages of 
 
 the elements. Opposite the 
 
 temple hill rises the mountain 
 
 on which the ancient city 
 
 stood, its summit crowned by 
 
 the old Greek theatre, the 
 
 seats of which, disposed in 
 
 the usual semi-circular form, 
 
 are remarkably well pre- 
 served, in contrast with the 
 
 thorough destruction that 
 
 has visited the cit}' itself. We climbed the mountain, followed by shepherds and country 
 
 lads in picturesque dress, who displayed Greek, Arabian and Roman coins that they had 
 
 unearthed on the site of Segesta. 
 
 The sweeping panorama from the elevated point occupied by the Greek theatre is most 
 
 interesting and strikingly beautiful. To the north the blue gulf of Castellammare appears at 
 
 the end of the vallej', through which we had come, and on all sides rise mountains between three 
 
 thousand and four thousand feet in height, the flanks of which show cultivated fields and olive 
 
 groves. To the west, many miles distant, appear the walls and towers of loft}' Monte San Giuli- 
 
 ano, perched upon its rocky crest. This is 
 the old town of Eryx, sacred to the goddess 
 Venus, and still containing the remains of a 
 temple to that divinity, as well as founda- 
 tions of prehistoric Phoenician walls. To 
 the south the monument on the battle-field 
 of Catalafimi marks the spot where Garibaldi 
 defeated the Bourbons in 1860, and here 
 and there on the hills are ancient castles 
 and towers, all replete with historical asso- 
 ciations. 
 
 The location of the theatre and the temple 
 
 at Segesta again illustrates the careful design 
 
 PF.ASWTS OF SF.GEST\ showu b}' the ancient Greeks, and those 
 
 INTERIOR OF CATHEDR.'\L. MOXRE.\LE 
 
 68 
 
CATHICDRAL OF F.^L_lOIJ 
 
 influenced bv them, in the selection of the sites for their temples and their tlieatres 
 The temples were usually placed in positions where their majestic and awe-inspiring 
 surroundings elevated the religious feelings of the worshipers, and the theatres were built 
 where the comprehensive panorama of natural scenery before, and the clear and 
 unobstructed sky above, the audience raised the mind to the level of the immortal plays 
 presented there and concentrated the attention upon them. 
 
 We returned to Castellammare Golfo by carriage and arrived in Palermo in the evening, 
 
 delighted with our excursion, 
 which was favored by the 
 most perfect weather. I 
 should add that fine weather 
 is absolutely essential for a 
 visit to Segesta. 
 
 Yesterday our programme 
 included the Cathedral, origi- 
 nally built in 1169, but since 
 that date frequently and not 
 advantageously altered and 
 restored. The interior is not 
 remarkable, and its only note- 
 worthy feature are the tombs 
 of the Norman kings, who re- 
 pose here in sarcophagi of red 
 porphyry under baldachins 
 supported b}' columns, which 
 are richly decorated with 
 
 S.\N GIOVANNI DEGLI EREWITI mOSaicS. 
 
 69 
 
The Palazzo Reale, part of which only shows its Norman origin, contains a few rooms 
 dating from the time of King Roger, and decorated with fine mosaics. The Cappella Palatina, 
 built in 1122 b}^ Roger II, is part of the palace. The interior of this chapel contains the richest 
 
 and most lavish ornamenta- 
 tion in mosaics that any 
 ecclesiastical building in the 
 world has to show. The 
 view of the interior of the 
 chapel from the pulpit is 
 magical, even in the poor 
 light penetrating through the 
 small windows, and one won- 
 ders what the glorious effect 
 must be if the chapel were 
 illuminated at night, with 
 artificial light throughout. 
 
 Near the Palace is situated 
 the Church of San Giovanni 
 degli Eremiti, a Norman edi- 
 fice built in 1132 in a Sara- 
 cen mosque, part of which 
 was utilized in the construc- 
 tion of the church. Adjoining 
 the church are cloisters, now 
 in ruins and covered with 
 plants and flowers in profu- 
 sion. 
 
 Sicily, with its venerable 
 remains of Greek art and cul- 
 ture, is the last stage in our 
 archseological pilgrimage. We 
 sail this evening for Naples 
 and leave the beautiful world 
 of the past to return to the 
 practical duties of^our every- 
 
 C.\PPELLA P.\L.\TIN.\, P.\LERMO "-^^^ llVeS. 
 
 Farewell! a word that must be, and hath been — 
 
 A sound which makes us linger; — yet — farewell! 
 
 Ye! who have traced the Pilgrim to the scene 
 
 Which is his last, if in your memories dwell 
 
 A thought which once was his, if on ye swell 
 
 A single recollection, not in vain 
 
 He wore his sandal-shoon, and scallop-shell; 
 
 Farewell! with him alone may rest the pain. 
 
 If such there were — with you, the moral of his strain! 
 
 — Byron, "Childe Harold's Pilgrimage" Canto IV. 
 
 70 
 
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