|TH 5608 .H6 1885 I Copy 1 ^-^y^Si^^V.:5<^>^-M-^^V--^^^5i4-^(«^P THE BUILDERS' GUIDE f AND POCKET COMPANION, BY Arcliitect, Carpenter andSuilder. 1 ATLANTIC, IOWA. FIRST EDITION 1885. -\?-^' g;^^|,^gyifi r ,» / % ^^^ }^^\ I. p. HICKS. ARCHITECT, CARPENTER And BULDER 153 WEST 5th,. STREET, BUILDERS' GUIDE AND POCKET COMPANIOiN, BY/ I- IP. HIIOICS, Architect, Sarpentsr adBiiiHer ATLANTIC, ^ ----- ;. --^^^.JPwW f MAR 6 1885^ ^/^ FIRST EDITION 1885. Entered according to Act of Oongr ss, in the year 1884, BY I. P. HICKS. BUILDERS' GUIDE. INDEX TO CONTENTS. A Prairie Cottage A. Village Residtnce A Large and Attractive Farm House A Suburban City Residence A Convenient City Residence A I 1-2 Story Cottage A riandsome B^arra House A Convenient Cottage An Octagon Farm House Larice andCOiiv ^nt. A Model House Bay-window. Bill of Material For, Bills, .Making Out Of, Building, Cost Of, Bay-windows to Pievent Leaks In, Contract, Form Of, Clomplete Bills for Houses Carpenter Work (Cornicing Defecti\e Chimneys Door Jams, Framing of, Door Jams, Setting of, Estimating, Hints on, Figuring, Rules For, Foundations and' Chimneys Good Suggestions, G utters Hardware, Bill of Hanging Doors, 66 67 68 70 78 73 74 86 .76 78 14 34 79 43 32 86 39 45 18 49 48 51 7 18 .12 .46 .41 48 HriLDKRS' GUIDE. Hip and Jack rafters, to obtain the length and bevels or~Illugtratod 60 Etems of Interest, :> 11 Items of Importance, 34 Jointin;; Jam Casing, 47 Joining JLevei and Gable Planceers to obtain the bevel of.— Illustrated OH Joining Gable Moulding with a Level Mould- ing, Making niitei" box for, 6o Labor, price of f) Material, To ^ stiniaie for 3 Mathematical and Architetural Drawing.. 56 Porch, to Make Bill For. \^ Prices of La'»or, by the Foot, Square «fcc 11 Porches. Estimating of 13 Plastering 17 Painting 17 Plastering, Bill of Material for 51 Plan of Rafter— Illustrated - . - - 61 Plan of an Irregular hip, showing how to ob- tain all the difleient bevels--lHustrated - 65 Root Pitches, explanation of - . - 7 Specitications, Necessity of - - - - 21 Specifications, Writing of - - - - - 22 Specifications^ Form ot ----- 23 Stains, blackwalnut, mahogonyandothers, - 50 Shingling a Vallev 44 ScantlniiT Measure, Ready Reckoner - - 10 Table, Weights of Windows - - - - 53 Useful Items, - - - - - - 13 Valley Ratters, to obtain the length and bev- els of— Illustrated 59 Windows and Doors, 54 1 NTRODUCTION iiTHjiFllS little work will l)e founcl to einhraee an gJS^ immense amount of tiie most \alual>le in-, ^^•^ toimation lejrardmji tlie trader ct Contrac- tors, ^Carpenters and Builders. It is a well known tact among all mechanics, and also those who have had anything to do with the building trades, that there is very often a great discrep- ancy with contractors in regard to the r^ost of la- bor and material required for a certain building, the question very na'Airally arises, why so much ditference? Sometimes the difference arises from one cause and some times from another. It is often thro' inexperienced workmen and young contractors, but the fault is not always with them. Tlie old as well as the young make mistakes, and I think more mistakes are made from omissions and the BUILDERS' GUIDE. want of M practical system to tijiure upon, than IVoni any other cause. Carpenters seem to have no uniform way of estimating. With many of them their lij^ures are simply a guess, and they frequently get left. Figures won't lie, then why not tigure trom easy, practical rules and quit jumping and guess- ing at work which so frequently leads to serious i-esults? It is the object of this work to point out bow^ mistakes can be avoided in making estimates, and to introduce a practical system for making such estimates, enabling the carpenter to make reliable figures at all times. The information in this book has been collected from the close observation and actual experi. ence of a practical workman, who has had years of experience on just the class ot work which the majority of carpenters meet with from week to week and trom year to year. Trusting that the information, plans and rules as set forth in this work will serve to instruct and benefit my fellow workmen, I submit it to the critical observation of the wide-awake Car- penter and Builder. 1. P. HICKS. Atlantic, Iowa, 1885. BUILDERS' GUIDE. To EstimatE for MatErtal. Tomakp out an itemized bill ot* lumbor lor a hnil(linj( witbout aruessiiig at some parts of it, or witboiit foro^ettin -s^~ ) IM:MM)KK->' (JUlDr, Out side FiaiEh, ^IIJEETJNG for sides QHEETINC; loj; innf. CIIIEETING K O R l3 Poicll liools. SHEETING FO H Bmv Window Roofs T U31BER U)Y Gutters RIDING and Pap(M-. ^HINGLESand ^3 Rld. PORCH COLUMNS and Brackets. PORCH FLOOR and CHilinu". T>ASE ANDVtEFS. LUMBER i OR B:i\-win dow tinisli pROWN Moulding |>ED MOULDING. "pANEL IMOULDING. UARTER ROUND tor outside tinisli. Q /^RESTING an(« Seroll Work: BUILDERS' GUIDE. InsidE Finish » Moors and WainscoUng- Jam Casings for Doors. Jam Casing for Windows, Inside Casing for ^oors And Windows. Window Slools, Stair Risers, Stair Steps, Shelves and Strips in Closets, Pantry Shelves, Base-boards, Base Mouldings, Band Moulding, Panel Moulding, Scotia and Quarter Round, Door and Window Stops, Doors, Sash and Blinds, Transom Sash, Cellar Sash, Corner Beads. BUILDERS' GUIDE. Rules for Figuring, fHE following is a Rafter rule which is very convenient in calculating* the length of rafters when it is not convenient to draw a draft. This rule will be found to be very correct, and much shorter and easier than the old way of square root; Simply multiplying the width of the building by the corresponding decimals for the difference in pitch, gives the length of the rafters in feet, and a decimal of a foot, multiply- ing this decimal by 12 you have the inches. For 3-4 pitch c»ultiply width of Duilding by .9 For 5-8 " • "• " *• <* " *' .8 For 1-2 >* *' '' " " " .71 For 5-12 " •' *' '' " '* .65 For 1-3 ** *' *' " " " .6 For 1-4 •< *• ** " <* " -56 EXPLANATION OF THE PITCHES. A % pitch is 18 inches rise to 12 inches run. *' * run. A }4 " '* 6 ** *• '>' *' " run. A Vs ^' '• 15 A >^ - .. 12 A 5-12 ^' - 10 A% '' - 8 BUILDERS' GUIDE. (S Example: ?>iipi)use :» Imildinj; iir» 2G feel wide -iud the roof is >^ pitch, what-will i»e the length of the | ; rafters? . Solution: Width of biiildinir hi i'eet 2() ■ KS' GUIDE. To stHJrwnys ^% inch tinish for sfeps 100 feet. To stairways % tinisli for rises, 50 feet. To flooriiiir, eeilinji*, sidinii* and ship-lap, add j one-sixth to hill and n^ake no deduction for ope- \ nin oth sides. Band m mldinir. ''oth sides, Hanfrin? door ^nd puttinir f>n lock, PiittinLT down dnoi- sill. Cuttin'r in '1 >or stops Tolril am »nnr of fiame <-oniplete. Note: — If mortice loe-.s aieused, add I5v.'ents for each door. The prices ii:iven for outside frames are f<»r a frame with n moulded cap; if extra emhellish- ments are put on, raise the price accordingly. ^% Wimlow sto'ds shf)uld be made of 114] inch lumber — % luinoei" ai Nays looks cheap and out of place, and tli- dirtVrmci ii» cost is ver littl". ^*^ To pioperly tit, h in^" ami trim ^\\\h rim locks, ei^lit doors Is an averaire dav's work. ^% To properly tit, hanu: and irim with mortice locks, five or six doors is • fair dav's work. BUILDKRS' cnilDK. 11 Prices of Labor by the Foot, Square, &c. Puttm^Mlown hase, per lOO feet $1 OC Puttiiij< down quarter round, pi r UK) feet, 30 Putting on base mouMing, per 100 feet.... 40 For a live member cornice, per lineal loot. J3 For putting gutter in cornice, 05 Framing floors, coilinus. side w^ills, parti- ii(»ns and roofs pers(iuare 50 Sidinr, per square 1 00 Papering, p'r square :5 Sheeting, per square, 40 Shingling per square 1 00 Flooring, pei* square, 50 Ceiling, per square, 60 Wainscoting, including cap. pe'* square, 1 00 Conter boards, each, 60 Porch columns, each, .. 1 00 /terns of Interest, A live m**mt»er cornice usually consists of a Planceer Fascia and Frieze, with a crown and bed moulding. If a cornice has more than tive members, add two cents perlineai foot for each member. If a cornice is bracketed, add ten cents for each bracket for nailing up and moulding them. In siding, if there are more than the usual num- ber of openings, or if the frames are so construc- ted aft to cause siding a difficult job. add 25 cents to the usual price per square. 12 BUILDERS' GUIDE. A square is 10 feet square or 100 square feet. The price for framing per square will include raisini? the building and the prices for siding, sheeting and cornicing will include building the scaffolds. To estirrate the amount, of lumber ia a cornice multiply tlie length by the combined width of its planceer, fascia nnd freize. Good Suggestions. The prices given in this work are cnkulatcd on a basis of ^2 50c per day for ordinary day's worii, not what a man could do in a rush, but an average fair day's worlv. As the price ot laoor varies so much in differ- ent localities, and the Ivi'ids of work are so vari- able, we suggest that the mechanic keep a rec- ord book of the time it takes to do diffent kinds of work by the square, by the foot, or by the piece, and with a little close observation he will soon become an expert in figuring, and he can regulate his prices to suit the work and the times accordingly, and what is still better, he can rely upon his own figures, for he knows from actual experience just what each and every kind of work, is worth. If $3 QO per day are wanted, add 20 per cent to the prices given; if only two dollars are wanted, deduct 20 per cen from the given prices. BUILDERS' GUIDE. 13 USEFUL ITEMS, To aid the carpenter in making tigures we give a feiv items in a condensed form: The material for a good bay wfndow all comj)lete, is worth I Carpenter work on tlie same, The material for a good sti'aight flight of stairs is worth Carpenter work on the same For a good black walnut hand rail, newel and balusters, For work setting uj) the same. $55 00 80 00 8 00 6 00 20 00 5 00 PORCHES MAY BE THUS ESTIMATED BY THE FOOT: To material for porches, per lineal foot, 1 70 To lahor building porches per linU foot, I 00 Note:— The above figures are for unpaiuted work, but hardware and tin roof for porch and bay window is in- cluded. *^* Never take contr-ictson other men's figures —always rely upon your own. %* Keep your material piled up in good shape, as it is more convenient to get at, and not so li- able to get wasted as it is when scattered around under foot. %* 2,250 shingles, properly laid, is considerea a fair d^y's work. 15 BUILDERS' GUIDE. Bill of Maierial for Bay Window. 3 2x8 16 feet for floor joists. 10 2x4 1 s o ^ O) S x» ^ 0) i; c^ 0) ^ ^ '^ ^ ^ ^ uJ fc J 1'^ 16 9 1 11 18 ! 12 ' i 2.'^ j 18 15 1 12 12 12 i^^ 14 14 16 16 16 18 18 18 20 20 20 22 22 22 21 24 24 26 26 26 12 , 20 14 21 I 16 24 ; 18 27 20 ^8 ■ i 20 ; 22 32^ 24 I 85 ' 26 12 14 16 24 18 I 27 20 80 4X4 i 4X« I 4 X8 I OXO 12 82 12 , 36 6X8 ; 8X8 14 37 I 14 I 42 16 82 . 16 ' 48 1() 4S IS 24 , IS 86 20 •-7 20 40 22 20 22 44 24 82 24 18 26 35 26 52 18 20 22 24 26 4S.1S 54 I i :^'^ 20 60 50 I 22 66 24 72 26 7S 12 48 14 56 16 i}\ IS 72 20 SO 22 ss 24 96 2(> 106 i<; s") ! IS; 96 107 117 128 im) BUlLDE^iS' GUIDK. Painting- VVIkj" a carpenter has painting lo figure on, il is heller lor liiin to get some reliable mechanic who is in the business, to give figures on his re- spective work. Painters figure their work by the square yard and at this writing and in ihis locality their price is, for two coiil work of the best lead and oil paini, lo cents per yard. A good many \ards nave lo bt- added i'jv brackets, mouldings and sci'oll work, and it is advi.sable to let painters figure ihe painting. PLAbTLKl NG. Plasleiing is also figured by ihe sqiiaie\ard and to fuiuishand do the work in thi-» locality the piices are as follows: For two coat work, 2(r cents per yard; for three coat work, with hard finish, 27 cents per yard. In figuring piistering find out the price per yard in your own locality, carefully estimate the numberof yards in the building, and it makes no ditto! ence whether you are in New Vork or Iowa your figures will be reliable. Any piece of scroll work may be quickly and accurately estimated by keeping the correct time it takes to 8aw a piece or section of it at av- erage speed. lb. HUU.DKRS' (lUlDi . Foundations and Chimneys, Foiindatioiis are generally «>r hrick or stiuu'.— Brick are^iaid by the thousaiid, and ^t«»ne by the perch. .Brick are fiirnishert and laid in the wa 1 for ten dtdlars per theousaMd, and st^ne for about (our doll I rs per perch. There are 25 cul)ic feet in a perch of stone. A thousand brick are about equal to two perch of stone when laid in a wall. Brick are counted as follows: For a four inch wall. "3^ brick to the foot. For an eight inch wall 15 brick to the fo- t. For a twelve inch wall 223^ brick tc the foot. For a Sixteen inch wall, 30 biick to the foot. Coni!n"n chinini'Vsin linus«-«s r. quii» a'x.ui -o ♦•ririi ti» the foot and co^t; \Vhen laid \]\> in hous«> all <'omjdt^te, about on^ d(dlar per fool. DEFECTIVE CHIMNEYS. In building chimneys much c-are and attnn- tion should be given them that they may b^pvop- erlv construe ted. Chimneys should always' start from a solid foundation, and where all stovepipes can enter tbem direct from the stove vAitbout passing thro' partitions and ceilinirs. Stove-pipes passing through partitions and ceilings in the ordinary way, are dangerous, and are often the cause of tires. If a stove pipe has to pass through a pai"- BUILDERS^ GUI OK. 19 tirion. don't put in a little ceilinir tut»e ai»out niru' inches in diamttei\ l>iu cut in a header bet \ve«n the sMiddinL*-, six or eight inches below th<^ P'pt'. and 'nive it briclrick. This will t)e safe ai)d can tye done cheaply. The ceiliui^ tube which conies inta direct con- tact with the stove-pipe and the lath and, soruf- times, with the studding, will, on a cold day wiien the lire is urijed, become sulficiently heat- ed, occasion ully, to set w^ood on lire; therefore, thev should not be used. Stove-pipes that pass through ceiliuiis should pass tho^mgh a stove- pipe register, which is about 14 inches in diame- ter. These we consider practically safe, as there is a large air space in the register, between the pipe and where the register comes in contact with, the floors and ceilings. Chimneys shr)uld be l>uilt as nearly sfraijrht ms possible and when easy access lo them can be had from all sides, so that the masons can care- fully point all the joints and plaster them inside and out to the top of the root. If we have only afour inch brick wall between the wood and the destructive element of tire, we should know that the wall is well built. , All joists and trimmers cut around chimneys where they pass through floors, ceilings and roofs, should be entirely free from the chimney, so that in case the chimney should^ettle, if- will not crack and leave a piae^Tol\flre't6escape.; .. ' The proper size for a good chlmH^y' We betieve 20 BUILDKRS' (^UlDh. is for the insidp iiieHsiirement of the flue to be 8x8 or 8x1-2 inches and all ohimneys should be provide d with a good ash pan situated below where the pipe enters the chimney. This is a very valuable essential, as the soot which accumulates and clogs up flues can be readly taken out hy means of the ash pan. We are not in favor of hot air pipes from furnaces passinir through narrow partitions of lath and plaster un- protected. We believe that all partitions thro' w^hich hot air pipes pass should be sufficii otly wide to allow a space of at least six inches be- tween the pipe and the studding and lath. Yet in many cases hot air pipes in dwellings come into direct contact with wood, inside of the par- titions through which they pass. It is no wonder then that we have <(>nie mysterious tiros when we look at the many Are traps ihat are careh ss- Iv allowe*! to be placed in our iMiildinjrs. Remarks and Suggestions. As the cost of material and labor in difteront localities is variable, it is and always will be necessary for the con ti actor to keep himself posted in regard to prices, so that he can esti- mate from some basis and not jump at conclu- sions. No contractor should take work without know- ing the location of the ground and the distance of hauling materials as all these are important Items in the cost of building. BUILDERS' GUIDE, 21. Necessity of Specifications. The (inality of material and the workmanship employed in the construction of buildings can be so vaii^Ml as to cause a trreat diflerence in the bids 01 <*()ntractors on work, hence the necessity of drawiniTs and specifications, for without them no two contractors will liii:ure the same Kind of Tr>aterial or the same kind and quality of work throughout a buildinsir. To arrive at a uniform price, and to have a fair footing, all must figure from the same basis. It is easier for any good mechanic to figure from drawings and specifica- tions than any other way. It is also much easier to work from drawings and specifications, as the crntractor knows just w^hat he havrit ihe work in question, and it can he so vari< d by addin«; to or takinj^ from, -'S to be applicable lo nearlv all ordi ary work. Items from which to Write Specificatons MASON WORK. Excavation for cellars and w alls. Cellar walls and foundation. Piers in Cellar ana under porches. Chimneys, lath and plaster. Carpenter WorW. Timber:— Sill?: and lirst floo»- joists. Collar beams and 'rafters. Second floor joists, ceilin<; joists. Studdin and base. Base niouldii:>r and bed moulding, Wijinseotin^ in kitchen. Shelving, pantry and cupboard. Finishing closets . Siaiis, nev\el, rail and balusters. Doors and trimmings. Hardware t ) be used. P inting and finishing. FORM OF SPECIFICATIONS. Mason Work. KXCAVATIONS: - .,^^ ~9^n«,wxr.r; \ b^xcivaie lor <*ellar under to the te i Cellar WalIls:^-^^- i^^'-^-^t'^^'''^^^ '^-^^ ''■- - ' "^-^^' \ The cellar w^alls will be wall laid up with good mortar and w^ell pointed. Piers:— Also, build piers under cross-sills and un- 24 BUILDERS' GUIDE, der porches u here indicated on thegnumd plans Chimneys:— The chimeneys vvill he of the lollovving di- mensions: Chimney to willb- inches, and start from Chimney to will be ....and fctart fn.ni chimney rest feet below the ceiling. Lath and Plastr: — All walls and ceilinjrs above the cellar will be well lathed and plastered with coats if good mortar, troweled down to a smroth and even surface. Haui) Finish: - The walls of the an- to liav*- three coats or a h-rd finish, A II angh^s are to be carried up true and plumb, and the entire vvorri left uninjured and tinished i!i a work- manlike manner. Carpenter Work. Dimensions and style of building will be ob tained from drawings, the figures on them be ing preferred to the scale measurement in all cases. Timber :- All timber necessary lo carry out the entire de- sign in all its parts will be sound pine, free from shakes or bad defects, and as dry as the market afi'ords. JlJILLS:— The sills will be and of the following number: HUILDKR.V liUlDi:. First Ki OOR JonsTSi- Tlie tirsl floor joists will be.. placod 16 iucties from ceuters gained into sills and spikeil Second Floor Joists:-- Will lie placed 16 inches from cen- ters and to rest on a ]y6 girt framed into tli'j studding and well spiked. Ceiling Joists:— Ceiling joists of main iniilding to be spiked to plates and partitions. Ceiling joists of kitclien to be. and well spiKed to p ates. Collar Beams:— Collar beams to be ....... well spiked to rafters. Plates:— Will be doubled and lapped ai the corners and well spiked to the studding. Rafters :~ The rafters will be placed from centers. Hip and valley rafters will be propel ly cut and fitted. The jack rafters will be and placed from centers. Deck Plates and Decks:— Deck Plates will be and size of decks will be as follows: Studding :— The studding for side walls and partitions will be placed 16 inches from centers, and doubled at all angles and around all open- ings. 26 BUILDERS' GUIDE. Partitions :— AH partition'* arc to be set pliinih and true to the lilies as niarkefi out on the plans. F4EADKRS AND TKIMMKRS:- Headers and Trinmiers are to ite cut in around all stairs, ttues. and wherever neces- sary. Ckllar Stairs: ~ The eellar stait s will he made ol and of as easy rise hs the space for them will admit. Cellar VV^indows and Doors: — There will be eellar windows, size ....... and a cellar door frame, with door made of tlooriuic fitted and hun::. Shketing Walls of House:— The outside walls of house to be sheeted with and papered with good iMiildniiT paper before sided 81DING:— Sid in jic to be I aul 43^ inches to the weather, with close joints and in a strai^rht and workmanlike manner. Sheeting Roofs and Shingling:— The roofs to be shingled to be sheeted with and shingled with laid 43^ inches to the weather in a straight and workmanlike manner, with joints properly broken. Porch and Bay Window Roofs:— Porch and bay-window roofs to be sheeted with and covered with good rooflng tin. BUILDERS' aumm Porch Ceiling :— Porches to be ceiled with and flnished with quarter round properly out around tlie iMnder. I*ORCH Floors :- Porch floors to he . lai I with close joints and l)lind nailed. Porch Steps and Lattice:— 'Porch steps and Lattice under p;rch to V)e constructed as shown in diawinit. Porch columns:— Make porch columns as shown in tlie draw- ings andlinish the porches throu;Lihout accord- ing to the entire design. Bay- Window Finish:— Finish the bay-window as sliown and de scribed in drawings with a neat bracketed and moulded cornice Cornice AND Outside Trimmings :— Construct all cornice as shown in the de- tails; putting up the same in a straight and workmanlike manner. Gutters and Conductors:— Form gutters in the cornice as shown in the detail drawings of cornice, and provide and • put up conductors as follows: Window and Door Frames:— Make the window and doorframes with a moulded cap as shown in the drawings. Win- dow frames to be made for weights and to be provided with outside rolling slat blinds prop- erly fitted and hung. 28 BUILDERS* GUIDP:. Outside Casings and Corner Boards :- All outside casings nncl coriuM* boards will l)e made of flnishmji: lumbc^r. Inside Finish, Heighth of Stories :— Height of rirst story will l»e ...*.. Height of second story will be Floors:— The floors of the tirst story will be except the Kitchen, dininir room and pantry: these w. 11 be The floors of thf* second story will be Ail tlooi-s to be hiid with (dose joiiits and blinci nailed and to have one row of <-voss bridi:in')\'r>, Ooors, Doors Donrs Inside Casings:— The inside casings to be and the win- dows and doors of the are to be band- maulded with inch band moulding The windows in the will i»e cased to the floor and panneied; all other windows will be cased in the nsnal way. Base and Moulding:— The base in the will be and moulded on top ed^e with base mould- ing. All other base will be plain ogee base. 30 BUILDERS^ GUIDE. Quarter Round:— Provide and put down quarter round to all base. Wainscoting :— The kitchen and VAill be wainscoted feet liigh and tinislied with a neat moulded cap. Shklvks AND Flour Chest:— Shelve thep^ntry and cupboard all complete also make flour chest with separate apartments. Closets:— Finish closets with shelf and strips for hooks, putting one dozen hooks in each closet. Stairs : — Build stairs of 13^ inch finish, except the ri- sers, wich will be % finish; make the stairs of as easy rise as the place for them will admit of and furnish and put up in a substantial man- ner a black walnut newel, balusters and hand rail of the following size and style: Newel Post, .___ Balusters,. . Railing, ... Corner Beads:— Provide and put in Corner beads on all pro- jecting corners. I BUILDERS' GUIDE. 31 i3:^i^iD-\Ar^i^E. The doors of the will have butts and .locks. The doois of the will have butts and locks. The double doors will have butts and locks. The closet doors will have butts and locks. The cupboHid doors will haA'e butts •.\\\i\ «iii)l)oard catches. All windows hun.^' with weii^hts are to be pro vided with sash locks, and those without weij^hts with sjish bolts: — REGISTRES,— Furnish and put in the following registers: — One in and one in PAINTING. The entire house is to receive coats of best lead and oil paints, of such colors as may be chosen by the parties concerned. The wood- work in the will be grained and varnished, and the floors of the following rooms are to have coats of good paint, viz; Also, all tin roofs, gutters and conductors are to be painted with coats of paint. All work to be finished in a neat and workmanlike man- ner. 32 BUlLDKHs^ (lUlDh. -FINALLY- The coiiuaetoris required to fyniisli aii mate- rial and laboi" necessary to eonipiet,e the build- ing aecordiii«i' to the plans and speeitieaiioiis, and to carry out the entire design in all its [j-ris. doingall work in a substantial and woi kniaiiliUe manner, to the best of his ability. Signed by Party of first i)art. Pariy Sec'nd Fart. FOMM OF COKTHACT. Articles of Agreement, min\ki on this day of A. D., 18 by and i>etv\ een party of the tiist i)artf and Pi^ty of the second part: Witnesseth, That lor; and in consideration of the money hereinafter stipula- ted, to be paid to the party of the first part by the party of the second part, the party of the first part has, and by these conditions does hereby agree to furnisn all labor and material of every kind, and to build and complete on, or by the on the premis- es of the party of the second part, situated in nuU.OKRS' GUlDh. 38 ., a residence as shown upon the drawings and set toi'th in the speeitications. Said drawinjufs and specitications heiui;- veirtted by the sijinatiire of the parties are to he taKen as a part of this contract. And the [)arty of the tirst part aj^rees thai all marerial furnished, or workniansliii) emi)loyecl shall be of the hest character and quality as mentioned in the said specitications. The party of the tirst part further agrees that he wit] complete, in accordance witli the i)lans and specitications, to the full and entire satisfaction of the party of the second part all the work that is to he done l>y the Ill c »ii>i(l(MMtinn «>(' uiii( h thepart> uf tl»e Sfc- niid p;iri aiiJVM'^ to pay to the party of the first pari rhe sum of .$ , as loljows: When the toundalions a i e completed. $ When The ennre huildingis under loof .$ .. When the entij'e l»uilding is plastered, $ \V lien the entii-e building is completed .$ In Witness whereof, the parties hereto have affixed their signatures. ixr;.[ Witness: C^i^- lU BUILDER.V nUIDK. Items of Importance. A contract made on Sunday cannot he en- forced. An agreenifcut without a consideration is void. Each individual in partnership is responsihle for the whole amount of the debts of tiie tirm. A note dated on Sunday is void. MAKING OUT BILLS. The following bills and estimates may seem somewhat extended as they are calculated in detai!, each item being specitied for its intended use. In makintr out hills we frequently find two or more iten^s of material which are similar, but are tobeused in ditt'eient parts of the l)Ui1din^- and for a different imrpo^e; hem-e. the necessity of similar items l>einii- separately specitied as to their amounts and intended vise. Tn this way of makinu- out bills of material and estimates on lahor, mistakes and omissions may be readily detected and avoided This is the prnper way to arrive at correct estiraata^s. and it is to the interest of the carpenter and his em- ployer that estimates may be made complete; then \\ hen they settle, they will not be surprised with extra bills, nearly as long as the orignals, from the lumber dealer, hardware merchant and others. We have frequently seen extra bills nearly as BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 85 long and willi nearly as many items as t he origi- nal bill contained; tlie extra items aggregnting sometimes, to several hundred dollars. This state ofatlairs should not exist; it shows soine- tliing wanting in the carpenter or his system of CMlculating. It shows that he guesses more than he tigurcs, or, thnt he don't know how to tigure, and uses poor judgment in guessing. Sometimes a carpenter will make out a bill of material that would hold out, but the bill costs too much money and his emi)loyer cannot see where in the world the mechanic is uoinu to put all that material in one little l>uilding. Then the thing i« tigured over ana over till it is tigured down to a feather edge, and in the end -some one gets left; generallv the carpenter, l)ut sometimes it is both parties. Be sure you are right then go ahead. Make itemized bills which you know are correct and stick to your figures; it is the only safe way to take contracts and it is essential to the prosper- ity of any well regulated trade or business. These bills wei'e selected as model bills, as they emoody nearly every item in a bill tor com- | mon house:-. As no list of items of hardware I has been given, we request carpenters and bull- ^ ders to compare their bills of hardware with the bill given; it may save omitting some important item. 36 BUILDEHh' GLIDE. COMPLETE BILL FOR A HOUSE. The following is a complete l>ill for a iioiise vvitli the figiues carried out s>ho\Ning 1k>\v the es- timating of material and la!>or for building may be reduced to an easy, practical system. The hruse is a two story frame, 24 feet square, 18 feet high with half pitch, shingle hip roof, hav- ing a deck roof 14 feet square covered with tin. It has a one story addition 14x16 feet, 9 feet high, with half pitch shingle hip roof, with deck rot)f 8xl< feei, cov'M-ed with tin. A sciuare l)r»\ win- dow, 4xSfeet. Two porches, each oxl4 feel and one 5x:12feet with tin roofs make ui* ihe balance of ibe house. The main [)art of tht- building has three rooms, a hall and one closet on ears|FT IN 2 iO I Dnoi- 1 I One side circle top pannel, Newel post, hand rail and balusters,.. corner beads at 25c each IN FT IN 6x70 TH'CK NESS 1 8-4 PRICE $2. 51) 6x6 6 I 3-8 2 25 4x6 6 13-8 2 25 X 6 1 3-16 2 25 cS X 6 8 134 nioul. $ cts 5 00 22 50 2 25 2 25 6 00 17 00 1 50 Total amount of lumber bill, $611 87 NOTK.— The prices given on lumber are per thousand feet, and mouldings per hundred feet. CARPENTER WORK 22 squares fiaminiJ: floors and ceil- ings at 50 $11 00 21 *' framing outside walls at .50 10 50 10 ^* '^ partition walls at 50 5 00 11 •• "- roofs at .50 5 00 19 '' sheeting side walls at 40 7 60 19 *• siding at 1.00 19 00 7 -' shingling at 1.00 7 00 Shingling6 hipsat 50 3 00 14 squares of flooring at. 50 7 00 IH " of wainscoting at 1 .00 1 50 40 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 112 lin. I'T cor nice tn niniii Imildin^- .1' $10 80 16 kitclien at 15 2 4n 156 -^ *^ .;f -litters ;it 05 7 80 •24 brackets lo niain lmil(lin«r 40 9 60 6 brackets to kitchen 5il 85 2 M> 40 lin. ft of porches brck'ls inclii. 1 .00 40 00 Work on l)ay-\vin(lo\v, not in- cliidiniT the window frame.*.. 20 00 6 Corner boards at 60 3 60 7 Window frames with weights, cased and b;»nd moulded at.. 2 5(> 17 50 10 Window frames without vv't?:, cased and not moulded at... 2 10 21 00 () Outside door frames complete, not band moulded, ar 2 .o5 7 05 4 inside frames <-ompete, nio'ld. 2 2) 8 s() 8 '' " " nnt •• 2 .05 16 40 I Cellar window tiame. ai .40 40 1 •* door •• •• .60 60 Makins< cellar doois 1 50 Making cellar stairs, 2 00 Puttinu' down 460 ft of Ikish at I .00 4 60 700 feet quarter round at .30 2 10 110 feet base moulding at 40 4 40 RnildinL- staiisat 6 00 Putting up hand rail 5 00 Shelving pantry and cui)boird 6 00 Finishing closets, ^. 2 00 Making flour chest 2 00 Making sink 3 00 Building outside ste])s 4 00 Hauling material on ground. . 16 25 Total amount of cai penter work, $310 00 bUlLDEKh' GUIDE. 41 HARDWARE BILL. I 125 lbs 2ad iiaiib, $3 75 25U '' lOd '' ..;. 7 5u 50 ^- 8d ^- ...iv I 65 40 •^ . t>d ** wi..;...........^. i 40 25 - 3d '• .., 1 aO t)0 '' lOd casuig iiailis 2 80 40 '^ 8d - •• 160 20 - 6d •• - «5 8 •• 4d •• •• , 36 ** ot" brads 40 17 set of blind mii^eb. 3 LO 36 window boilo 11-8 28 axie pulieyb .. 1 oO 7 sash iocks » 1 05 180 feet sash cord 1 5 J 28 window weiglits 4 5a 10 mortice locks 5 00 5 rim locks, 2 00 3 pair of butts, 4 x 4 60 7 *• '- '' 33^x33^ 1 00 5 3x3 70 12 '• '^ '•^ narrow wrought butts for cupboard, flour chest and sink 1 00 1 pair wrought butts for cellar door 20 1 pair T strap hinaje^ and hasp for QUt- side cellar door . 40" 6 cupboard catches ,.........•; 1 20 6 hooks and eyes — 25 2 drawer pulls...... 15 2 mortice bolts 70 42 BUILDERS' GUIDE. . . 2 00 50 I I 15 10 20 259 334 235 106 46 56 8 Toe To( To I Tol To; Tot stove pipe register ash pan for ehiiiinev rubber tippf'd door stoj-s tin window caps tin sliin^ies, ft of valley tin for gutter 75 .. 1 80 60 . . 16 84 ft tin on deck roof. 21 71 ft tin rooting on porches 15 67 ft ol valley tin on porches and kitchen 6 89 ft tin rooting on l)av window 3 00 ft ttiree inch conductors . . 5 30 <^lbows, 80 Screws and sand paper .. I 00 Two dozen coat and hat hooks Total amount of Hardware Bill..,. 50 . $123 50 $ 8 Oc ; 60 00 4 00 44 00 70 00 73 98 259 98 MASON WORK, ixcavatini:- for celhir and t reni'hes. . . )000 brick laid in walls 3uildinL^ ne^'essary piers tor porches. Duildin*^ 44 feet of chinmevs ^50 y'ds plastering, 2 coats at 20cts,. >74 y'ds plastering, 2 coats at 27 cts.. Amount of Mason Work, BUILDERS' GUIDE. 43 PAINTING. 460 yards otpainiiii*^-, two coats, floors not Jiicluded, at 15 cts $ 69 00 40 yards of painting kitchen and di- ning room floors, at 15 cts 6 00 Amount of Painting $75 00 Recapitulation. Luml>er l^>ill, $611 87 Carpenter Bill, 310 00 Hardware Bill, 123 50 Mason vvork,... 259 98 Painting 75 00 Insurance and incidental expenses 15 00 Total amount of house complete. . $1395 35 To Prevent Leaks in Bay Windows. It seems to be vei y difficult for the carpenter to build a bay window that will not leak in a bad storm of rain and wind. There are few bay-windows built that do not have a window, or a large double window, di- rectly over them, the leak is, almost invariably, right down by the casings of these windows.— The bay-window may be well roofed and the tin turned up under the siding for five or six inches, yet it will leaK and be a mystery to close obser. 44 . BU1LDKR8' GUIDK. vers -IS to \vhere the vvater' ^etii in at. Water ti^ht joints are no always made in sidin«' and sometimes the casings shrink trom the siding tlien the rain beats in by the side of the casings of these upper *vindows and runs down l)"hind the tin turned up from the roof, thus causing a leak. To prevent this, saw through the sheeting un- der the window, sawing about eight inches to each side, slanting the same upward in sawing Now put a piece of tin well into the saw kerf . find bend it down over the tin that turns up from the roof, then, after the siding is proi)erly put on, you vs^ill have a bay window that is positive- ly water-tight.. Care should be taken in siding and not drive nails to near the roof and it is bet- ter to slant them a little upwa>'d in driving. — In no f^ase should the t-ills of upper windows, come closer tiian 4)4 inches to the roof of the bay-window; it is necessarx i<» have room for tin to insure a good job. Shingling a Valley. First see that the nail heads are well driven into the sheeliuir so that they will not make holes in the tih,then take a roll of 14inch tin, of proper length and unroll it in the vallev so the water will run over the seairs, not against them. Adjust the tin to the centre of the valley and bend it down by using a 2x4, being careful not to kink the tin.— A few nails through the edges of the tin are suf- ticent to hold it in place, then wiih a chalk line; strike your lines about two inches apart at the top, and three inches at the bottom. Now take a wide shingle, lay one edge of it true to your line BUlLDF.li-^' GUIDE. 45 in the v:iliey. then with nnother shingle as ji straight edge, ma Ke a line from the butt diago- nally across the shingle and straight iip|the root; this will give you a pattern by which you can cut all the other shingles. Cut the shingles on the ground, i i. mme convenient than working on the root", and it is a great deal quicker. No nails should be driven through the tin nearer thin 5 inches the cer.ter of the valley. C O R N I C I N G Cornicing a building is a job generally dread- ed by the carpenter. The inccnvenience of work- ing on Nc.ittolds and cramped up places makes it very disaureeable work. Cornicing is made a irreat deal ejisie'- it good judgment is used in buildihii' si'tift'oids at just the right height for cotjvenient working. Three men can be advan- tageously eniiloyed in cornicing. Let two men work on the scatfold, and the third man do near- Iv all the cutting of lumber on the ground and bandit to the men above already to nail up. A man who thoroughly understands how to use the square and saw will readily make the prop- er cuts so that they will tit better than they would had they been sawed on the scaffold by the man who has only half a chance to use his saw. Three men will do more this way than four will, each man cutting lumber for himself, and we have found it a very satisfactory way of working. It is well to have four or iive trestles, five feet 46 BUILDERS' GUIDE, high — they are just i ight for scatlolding around porches and ba\ windows and will save many times their cost, as well as drivinir nails into the new work; They will also save nailing up one scaffold in sheeting and siding a building. GUTTERS. In riiakihg glitters always give them all the pitch you «an toward the conductor^ being careful to level up the bottoin With a straight edge to prevent low placesi lio water should stand in a properly constructed gutter. t)o not make gutters with perpendicular sides—they Are difficult to tin and more liable to leak. Make gut- ters V shape, or with flaring sides like a basita CORNER BOARDS. It is a difficult job to dress out long corner boards to be nailed together that will nail up in proper shape on the building and without draw- ning open at the joint. A very good way is to have both casings the same width, nail them on so that the inside edg- es come together at the corner — then put in a quarter round. t-ITTING BLINDS. Oh account of the bevel of Witidow sills it is a little difficult to mark the proper length to cut BUILDERS' GUIDE. 47 blinds when titlinn- them. The quicke.'^t and most oonvtnient way is, after you have titted the side and top, to turn the blind end for end, and mark the length by by the head easir.^- of the window frame. Blinds should have an eighth of inch i)lay, whei-e they come together at the rai)beted edge, and a quarter of an inch is not any too much at the bottom. On new work it is an advantage to hani< blinds before the frames leave the shop. JOINTING JAM CASINGS. Window and door jams should be jointed very nearly square on the edge, the outside casings are nailed to the inside edge next to the plaster- ing should be jointed considerably back in order to have the inside casings fit the j-nns closely when naile(' on. This is a failing of the carpen- ter whicta is generally overlooked and not found out until the inside easiim is commenced, then it is too late to remedy the improperly jointed jams. If you want your casings to lit the jams nice^ iy, joint the Jams an eightli of an inch back and be careful to have them the proper width. Door jams should be made of 1 3-4 inch lum- ber and rabbeted to receive the door, then we have solid frames to case, and to hang doors to I 3-4 inch rabbeted jams are nearly as cheap as % jams with stops nailed in and are a great deal better. 48 BUILDERS' GUIDE. i After a butt hns been cut into a Ji yMn there is I very little wood left for tlie tsciews to inketbe tirm hold thev necessarily should t<> ho;d a rioor HANGIiSLG DOORS. A door properly fitted and hung should not bind on the hinges, drag on the sill or biiiil at any part of the frame — pr()l)ably the nearest ap- proximate rule is to give the door an ^eighth of an inch play in the frame. The proper distance to |)lacc tne butts on a common size door is ten inches from the bottom and eight inches from the top. The ])roper phu'e foi' the lock is for the top of the lock to be placed on a line with the tnp edg(i of the lock rail of the door. SETTING DuOR JAMS. The setting rf door jam-i is a \ ( ry particular job. In order to have the doors work properly when hung, the jams must oe set perfectly plumb and true, being carclul to have them mtirely out of wind. It is a yei-y good plan in setting doorjams to have a board cut the proper length and placed between the jams at the bottom, it will be a great help in keeping the jams light while they are being nailed. Be sure thai the trame is square and plumb, then if one jam does not come down square to the floor, scribe and saw oft* of the jam resting on the floor as much as the other lacks ot coming to the floor. To faciii- BLILDEU^'GUIDE. 49 lute setting dour jaiiiis; in sexiing partitions, Jeave one door fetud Joose to eu(tli door, to be nailed in w Ijen tlie Iraint.' is set FRAMING DOOR JAMS. Door jams that are to have stops nailed in shouid be gainoiec<^s are taken out to put in the weights you will not be bothered with sand or pieces of mor- tar wh^n ) ou put them oack. The grand secret ot scroll sawing is to keep your saw sharp and follw the mark. Be sure you are right, then go ahead. Always keep your tools in good w^orking order, as a tool out of order is but little better than none at all, and time taken in sharpening tools 50 BUILDERS' GUIDE. is not vvorili as mueli as the lime lost lu Ubiii«j (lull ones. It is a i»ad practice to let tools and scraps ac- cumulate on tlie vvork-liench, till tliey are in the vvav of workiuif. Scraps should be thrown in the scrap pile, and no more tools Kept on the bench than are in constant use. The bench sli( uld be kept clean as possible to facilitate work. BlaCK Walnut Stain.— Asphalturr^ thinned with turpentine makes an excellent black wal- nut stain. Stained wood must be varnished over if a good job is desired. Various Stains.— Quite a variety of stains can oe cheaply and quickly made by mixing um ber, burnt and raw sienna with turpentine, using" more or less, according to the shade wanted. PuRPLK Stain. — Extract of logwood dissolved in water makes a tine i)urple stain. Mahogony Stain.— Equal parts of logwood and redwood chips boiled well in water will produce a tine mohogony stain. LATHING. In common lathing the space between the laths should be oneqiiarter of an inch; if they be made less than that the clinches will not be strong enough and if more, they will sag down on the ceiling and drop off with their own weight on BUILDERS' GUIDE. 51 the sides. Most.latheis break joints every seven or eight hub, hut it is better to break joints every four or live lath, and in no case hiiould ihe studdin;:^" and joists be placed over 1(5 inches ai)art-~12 Inches would be better, but 16 are 'aken a© a standard. Lathing- is estimated by the square yard, the same as plastering— no deduction being made for doors, windows and openings not exceeding 64 square teet. Bill of Material for 100 Yards of Plaster- ing.— Three coats, 8 bushels of lime, 1 bushel of hair, I load of sand and 3^ barrel of plaster paris. About two bushtl of lime are required for the finishing, the other six for the first and second coats Minis on Estimating. SHEETING. In estimating sheeting for shingle roofs, nuike no allowance for spreading the boards, (calcu- late the same as you would to sheet a roof close what IS g:ained in spreading the boards is genei*- ally lost in the cutting. The proper distance to place the boards apart is from 1\^, to 2 inches. To Find THE Area of Hip Roofs with Decks: — Add the len:;th of the I'oof at the eve& and at the deck together, then hiHf of this >um multi- plied by the length of the common rafter will give the area of the required side. If there are 52 Bl]M)>r;S' (il 1D>. two or more si(!es iilike iiniltiply by the lumilx r of sides. The area of the deck is foiinOWS. 1 Size. \ Thick. Wt of window. VV't required. 8x10 1 -.-!.. 14 lbs S]4]Uh 0x12 1 3-10 18 lbs 4}4 l'>s I 10x14 I 8-8 20 lbs ^Yi lbs 10x10 1 8-8 27 lbs 7 Ids 10x18 1 8-8 88 lbs 81^ lbs \* To hang common size windo^vs^ it reqilirfefe about 20 feet of sash cord to each windo\V. 54 BUILDERS' GUIDE. WEIGHT OF FOUR LIGHT WINDOWS. Size. Thick. VV't otwiiHJow. W-t re qui reel. 12x24 1% 22 bli lbs 12x28 24 •6 lbs 12x32 u 26 6K lbs 14x36. u 30 ly^ lbs 14x30 *• 28 7 lbs 14x32 a 30 ' 7K 1^>« 14x34 . (( 81 8 lbs 14x36 '* 32 8 ^ lbs Proportion of Windows and Doors. In building it is necessary to exercise u liulo judgment in the pi oportioniiig of windows and doors to suit the stories. Large ^vindo^vs seem to be much desired ev^n in small houses and the inexperienced usually maive. the mistake of getting windows too long for the h(^ight of sto- ries in building cbeap houses, and the carpen ter frequently gets into trouble with window jfraraes coming too close together, too near the roof, or coming in way of the cornice. For a 9 Pt story, «, winaow, 12x30, 4 light, is about the right size, and is plenty large enough to look well, both outside and in. Doors to correspond nicely with these win BUILDERS' GUIDE. 55 cU')\vs should be 7 feet long although 6 feet 8 inch- es will do very \vell7 The second story of a common house is usually about 8 feet fur this height. 12x28, 4 light win- dows, and doois, leet G inches louir itre about the right proportion. For a house with tirst story ten feet and sec- ond story 9 teet. The first story windows may b(vl4x34, 4 light, and doors 7 feet 6 inches long. Second story windows 14x30, 4 light, .and doors 6 feet 8 inches. Two light windows of the same length may be substituted for the 4 light win- dows if desired. Circumstances alter cases, and the plan of a house should be thoroughly studied before or- dering doors and windows. Many times odd si- zes have to be used but always conform to regu- lar sizes when you can. STAiRS.-Orders for stairs should give the height ot story from floor to floor, width of joists in sec- ond story, width and run of stairs and size of cylinder with sketch show^ing something of the sh:»pe wanted, and the w^ay they turn on the landing; also stvie and width of base used in hall. Orders for lailing worked for straight flight shoulrl give the rise and tread of steps as- sawed out on the string-board, the number of ri- sers, liie size t'f cylinder, A\hi(h war it tun s on the landing, and the length of straight rail re- quired at head of stairs. EVlLDtlife' GUIDE. f/loithematlcal and Arc hitea tunal Drawing. Tht* ,(!nri)enter sliuuld understand how to read (Irawings, iuul a knowledge rf making Ukuj is of still greater iuiportain-e. It would require a vol- ume to illustrate all the mathematical ^irawings that eontinually arise In the carpentry business A lew diagrams are given, showing (he prin- ciples ot drawing, ai)plicable to tinding the length and bevels in cases *f actual work, as they fre- quently come to the carpenter. By studying the art of drawing, the carpen- ter will learn manv things to his advantage, and w ill tind it a matter of no small importance to be able to convey ideas on paper \)\ means of legible drawings. Architectural diaw in^is of moderate-cost dwell- • ings are not as d ifficiilt to make as a casual ob- server would suppose. A costlv outtit of (haw- ing tools {)re not needed in plain hand drawing. A few of the essential tools are, a goud drawing rule, compasses, dividers, pen and pencil points, :^ drawing pen, a pr<)tractor and a *'e>v dra>Ying percils. Practicti and a natural taste for drawingis the '*key note to success, if you fail the tirst few times to maka a satisfactory drawing, try again. Remember that practice and perseverance over- come all obstacles In making elevation draw- ings, tirst draw the outline of the building and begio at tte upper left hand cf>rner to finish and work toward the lower righ<. hand corner, BUILDERS' GUrOE. workitiir Jismuch as practical to keep from pa^-s- injr your liands and tools over the tiuished work. In makin«: large draw ings, to keep tl^em nice and clean, cover the tinislied portions with paj)er as much as you ca!i conveniently. After yru have drawn the outlines <>f a dwell- ing, draw the chimneys, then the cornice, and tinish up the roof. Next draw the upper win- dows and finish down to the bottom of them, drawing the weather boarding lines last, being careful not to cross other lines. Before making a line, know where to start and stop it. Now^ draw the porches and bay windows, the win dows and doors of the lirst stoiy and finish down to the foundation, finishing porch ste[)s, lattice and flnish^under porch last. New beginners ought to practice drawing doors, windows, porches and bay wincJows sep- arately, before trying to draw a house comi)lete —it may save them much annoyance. The most convenient scales are one quarter inch to the foot .for fl »or plans, and one half inch to the foot for elevation plans. Detail drawings may be drawn at any convenient scale or at full size* ^ ^ FIGURE I, 58 BUILDERS' GUIDE. FIG-. 2— Showing how to oh tain the Length and Bevels of Valley and Jack Rafters. BUILDERS' GUIDE. 59 See Fig (2)— The line AB represents half the width of gahle; B C and C D ;tte plates; D E h;i]f the width of ti:able to wing; E V and F A are th*^ centre lines ot'the building* plumb under the ridge; C F is the run of valley rafter; F Gis the rise— then (Jr C is the length of valley rafter. A l)ovel set in the angle at G will be the top cut, and at C will be the bottom cut. Now with C as a center, a'.id C G as a radius, strike the arc in- tersv^cting ihe center line of the building at B — then the line H C siiows the valley rafter in po- sition. The line from the angle C to I, is the run of common rafter; I J is the ris^*, and J C is the leno^th. ISow with C as a centre, and C J as a radius, strike the arc intersecting the line of common rafter at K. K H is the ridge line of the building; the lines L L L are the jack rafters, and a bevel set in the angle at N will be the cross-" cut of the same. The cuts at the top and bot- tom representing the pitch of the roof will be the same as the common rafter. Rule for Finding the Length of Hip-Raf- TKR FOR A Regular Hip.— Square the run of the common rai*ter, double it, aad the square of the rise of hip and extract the square root— the root thus obtiuned will be the length of the hip raf- ter. m HUILDKRS- GUIDE. Fi- 3 -PLAN OF BIP ROOF, Slmwin^ How to Obtain the Lecgth and Bevels of Hip and Jack Eafters. Lnt the lines A B, nnd B C. represent the iiinin plutes; the lines 1)E ;u)c1 E F, the deck plates: tlien B K is the run of hip rafter; now draw at light anirles the risp of tl>e rafter, E G. Connect (J with Band yo'i have the length ^>*' liip rafter. A ht'xel set in the aniilc u\ G will l)e the top cut and in Ih'i an^Ie at B the bottom cut. Now with B as M centre, and BG as a radius, strike the arc intersectinji- the line K F at H— then the line 11 li shows the hip raft^M- in position to get the BUILDERS' GUIDE. (M Ipiiirtlis and bevels of the jack- rafters. The Imes J J. drawn f om A B to B H, are the jack- riifters, and a bevel set in the angle at K will be tiie cross-cut of the same. The plumb cut at the top and the bottom cut representina: the pitch of the roof will be Lh > same as that of tiio common rafter. Phe line, L E, is the run of commen raf ter; K D is the rise, then the line D L is the length of common rafter FIG. 4 RIGHTANGLE TRIANGLE. Squarino: a number is multiplying it by itself and is a term us'^d in square root. Carpenters should understand the system of square root as they frequently have occasion to use it in vari- ous ways for finding lengths and areas. The plan of a rafter represents a rigtangle- tri-anjrle. iSeeFio(4.) The line, A B, is the run, and is called the base; A*C is the rise ana is called the perpendicular; then C B is the pitch line, or rafter, and is called the hypotenuse. 62 i:r]ii)Ei I-' (UHDE. :PI&TJI?.E 3: Showing how to Obtain the Bevels in Join- ing Level and Gable Planceers BUILDERS' GUIDE. 63 See Fig. oi—Let tlu^ lines .^ B, B C and C A, rei)resent the front gable; the lines B D, D E and E C the \vin<;- irable. ^ow erect a purpen- diciilar in the center of gable at F and continue it ind( finitely ; then measure from F to a point direcil}^ under where the rid^e of main and wing- roots meet at G; connect G with B for the run of valley rafter, draw the rise, G H, and connect H with B for the length. Noiv with B as a cen- ter and B H as a radius, strike the arc inter- secting the perpendicular line F at I; r-ounect T with B and set a bevel the in angle at J for cut- ting the level planceer, and in the angle formed at B bv the lines K G, G H and li B for cutting the gable planceer. IVJAKII^O A IVIIXER KOX Toi- Ciittitij^ IfliMildiiig'N IVi'icreXvi'o iiisible^ Cor- ner a net Joining* ^jisible .Tlonltlin^^* >viirli I^<^Tel i^lovilding' of* :i f luni1> Cornice. When two gables corner uso the same bevel for the cross-cut in th'» box that you do for the jack rafters, and for cutting down the sides of box, use the i)lumb-cut of the pitch of roof. In joinirg a gable moulding of a plumb corn- ice, cut the level moulding on a square miter and the gable moulding in the box as described above. The cut. Fig. (1) is a fair representa- tion of a miter box for making these difficult 64 BUJLDEK^' GUIDE. joints. Tbe y:;ible mouUliug- to match tlie level moulding should be worked by hand, but if tbe gable moulding is onehait* inch larger than the level a v(ry good joo can be d(uie. BUILDEKS' GUIDE. 65 FIG, 6. -Plan of an Irregnlar HipEoof. An irregular hip roof is one in which the roof on one side of the hip is longer than the other. The diagram on page 64 is a plan of an ii regular hip, shdwing how to obtain the lengths and htVels of all the rafters. In the dntwing, A B and B G represent the main plates; D E and E F the deck plates; B E is the run of hip-rafter; E G the rise and G B is the length. Now with B as a center and B G as a radius, strike the arc intersecting the deck plates at H and I, connect I with Band you have the hij)- ra*'ter in position for getting the length and bev- els of jack-rafters for the short side of the hip.~ Connect H with B and you have the hip-rafter in position for getting the length and bevels of jack- rafters for the long side t)f the hip. The lines J J are the jack-rafters for the short side of hip and extend from the line A B to the line B ^, and a bevel set in the angle at L will be the cross-cut at the top, and the bottom cut will be the same as that of the common rafter for the short side of the hip. The lines K K are the jack rafters for the long side of hip and ex- tend from the line B C to the line B^H, and a bev- el set in the angle at M will be the cross-cut of the same; the plumb cut at the top and the bot- tom cut will be the same as that of the comm in rafter for the long side of the hip. A bevel set in the angle at B, formed by the lines B E, E G, and G B will be the bottom cut of • ,v.-..>.v.^ .v»-s.s.. wii*-»-».4 v./«.^;i-^ ,., 6t> BUILDER'S GUIDE- ihe hip rafter, and a bevel set at G will be the top cut. The line N E is the run of common rafter for the short side of roof; E D is the rise, and D N the lensrth. A bevel set at N will be the bottom cut and at L the top cut. The line C E is the run of common rafter for the long side of roof; F is the rise and FC is the length. A bevel set at C will be the hot l;0m cut and at F the top cut. Rule for Finding Length of Hip Rafter FOR AN Irregular Hip.— Square the run of commmon rafter of both the long and short sides of the hip, square the rise of hip, add the three squares together and extract the square root.— The root thus obtained will be the length of the hip rafter required. DESIGNS OF HOUSES. Design U—A Prairie Cottage -Cost $500. BUILDERS' GUIDE. 67 DESIGN 2. A Village Residence, 11-2 Story — Cost SI 000. Suitable for a Narrow Lot, I First Floor Plan. Second Floor. 68 BUILDERS' GUIDE. DESIGN 3, Plan of J. W. Wilson's tRESiDENCE, fl miles south-east of Atlantic, Iowa. This is a large and attractive Farm house, ^ VERY conveniently ARRANGED — 2 STORIES — COST $2,000 y^^ First Floor. BUILDERS^ GUIDE. CHAM3lt 18X23 Second Floor. BUILDERS' GUIDE. DESIGN A.-^Firsi Floor Plan. M Suburban City Residence—Cost $1,900 BUILDERS' GUIDE. 71 Second Floor Plan. 72 BUILDER5S' GUIDE. DESIGN 5. A Convenient City Residence- 2 Stories— Cost $1,700. ■B*jjp -n—=- J. First Floor Plan. ^ K.S 1 .OP 1 CLOSET CD m ^ 3) Jo o / Second Floor Plan. BUILDERS' GUIDE. 73 DESIGN 6. R ri-2 story CottagE—Cost $B5D. First Floor Plan. Second Floor. I 1 LILP] li>- (it: IDE DESIGN 9. B. B. Harris' resicenc, 4 Miles North of Atlantic Ia. A HANDSOME FARM HOUSF- Vr unu First Floor Plan. BUILIJKMS' (iLIDK. 'JOOIJ puooQS 76 BUILDER'S GUIDE- BUUJJI^HS' GLIDK. DESIGN 8."Wm. Duncan's Octagon Farm House Large and Convenient-' Cost $2,200. Second BUILDER'S GUIDE- A MODEL HOUSE.-DESIGN-10. First Floor Plan, Second Floor. BUILDERS' GUIDE. 79 COST OF RUILDING. " As the cost of building varies according lo qual. ity of material used and tlie class of work being done, it should be remembered that good houses may be erected, acccording to the designs shown, for from one to three hundred dollars less than the cost as stated in the estimates named in the diagrams given. In difterent localities the cost may vary even more. 31 any houses are built without drawings and speciiioations, but most houses so built are In. conveniently arranged and not properly propor- tioned—do not look neat and attractive, and are unsatisfactory. At this age of improvement peo- ple desire to see, before commencing to {build, how their dwellings will appear when completed —also to know the exact cost. The best satis, faction Is only reached through means of draw- ings and specifications and employing skilled workrren to carry out the designs. For the benefit of those who wish to build af- ter any of the designs in this work, large and complete drawings, drawn to working scales, showing elevations, floor plans and full details throughout^ together with specifications and a reliable bill of quantities sent post-paid at the following price: Dedgn 1— a Prairie Cottage $5 00 Bill of quantities, without drawings and specifications 1 00 Design 2— A Village Residence 10 00 80 BUlLDETwh' (UJIDE. Bill of qiiaiUitie^ without nra wings and spu'ciucat ons 1 50 Design 3— A largeKann iluuse 12 00 Bill ofqiianlitiub witlioul (li a\vin<:s and speciiicatioiis 150 Design 4— A Suburban Residence. ... . 15 00 B 11 of (]uantities wiilioni drawings and speeiiicalUMib .. . . . 1 50 D.sign|)— A Convenient Ciiy. Residence 12 Oo Bill of (luaniitie-^ w'ilin.ut drawings and speeilieaiioiis 1 50 Design (i — A one an-a-half ^to^y cuttage 10 00 Bill of ciuantilies w ithout drawings and sjecilleaiions 1 50 Design 7 — A Convenient Cottage G 00 Bill of (iiinl ities witlioui drawings and speeiricatious :.. . . 1 00 Design 8 — a twu) stoiy Octagon liouse.. 12 00 Bill of (luaniitiOs wiiiioi t drawiiiis and t^peeincai ions. 1 75 Design — A handsome Farm Htdise... 12 00 Bill of quantities witlioul designs and si)eei Ilea lions 1 50 Design 10— A Model Ho'ise.... 10 00 Bill ofquatitities wiiiiout drawings and speitications 1 50 vny changes in the al)<»Ne designs, such as rhanLing paniiions, enlaiging or lediiciiig tli" ^i/<,' (d* buidin^ will be made free at the abOve piie'S. li is only necessary Vn sCnd a rough t-ke(r ofwhatNod Want to eiia le u> to arrange it in a practical form. We wil. ) « ( pare draw- ings and si)eciti('ations nf an\ woik in onr line • •fbusiness at r- asonable limirt s. By sending a, description and sketch of >\hat is wanted prices •vill 1 e given on receii)tof a| i)lication. I. P. HICKS. ARCHITECT, CARPENTER And BOLDER 153 "WEST 5th,. STREET, ^^^K LIB LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 020 108 839 2