\<. 'jenS LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. ■ : | | s^f am. I J # UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. I TEA; ITS EFFECTS, MEDICINAL AND MORAL. London : Printed by A. Spottiswocde, New-Street-Square. TEA; ITS EFFECTS, MEDICINAL AND MORAL. BY G. G. SIGMOND, M.D. F.S.A. F.L.S. PROFESSOR OF MATERIA MEDICA TO THE ROYAL MEDICO-BOTANICAL SOCIETY. LONDON: O PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMANS, PATERNOSTER- ROW. 1839. *$ £? oor. At this day the consumption of tea in a Chinese family must be very great: it would appear that throughout the whole of the day they take advantage of an apparatus in which it is kept, and are constantly sipping it. There exists in the lan- guage numerous proverbs which tend to show that the rich enjoy the strongest, whilst the poor must be contented with that which is weak. Mr. Davis observed, in the very interesting evidence which he gave before the House of Commons, that their figurative expression for poverty is drawn from this source. It is weak tea, and insipid rice, in allusion to the want of means to obtain a strong tea, and wherewithal to flavour their rice. The tea-plant is evidently indigenous in many of the provinces of China, and in various situations serves in the fields as a hedge-shrub ; but there are particular localities in which neither labour, skill, nor ingenuity are spared to bring it to the state of the highest per- fection of which it is capable. It exists, indeed, in different parts of the Eastern hemisphere, but it is only in China that it has been extensively culti- vated ; for, although the Javanese assert that they have within the limits of their empire a shrub which AND MORAL EFFECTS. 15 is far superior to that which is found in China, we have no evidence of the fact, nor has any exporta- tion been made of that of which they have so loudly boasted. The plant evidently flourishes over the greater portion of the Chinese empire; and there must be varieties produced by, cultivation, which are not known in Europe, but which are said to be in high estimation amongst those people who can afford to purchase them. That which is best known to the European, and which, indeed, seems grown and prepared for the supply of our markets, is the produce of the central and the maritime provinces of China, forming the richest and finest portions of the empire. From these, too, the most valued pro- ductions, and the more highly esteemed manufac- tures of various articles of dress and of luxury, are obtained. The demand for exportation has neces- sarily increased its cultivation ; and it is now suc- cessfully reared in many situations where it was formerly unknown, or entirely neglected. The provinces of Fokien, of Keang-nan, of Chek-eang, of Kiang-si, and Kung-soo yield the largest pro- portion ; and the English resident is led to believe that from them the best supply is obtained; but the provinces immediately around Pekin afford that which is preferred by the luxurious citizen ; and, from those which border upon the Tartarian region, the Russian and the Muscovite draw their supplies, which are of a kind and of a character which are much to be prized by the amateur of tea. It is in Fokien, or in " the happy establishment," that a very large proportion of that tea which is the 16 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL ordinary beverage of the tea-drinkers of this country is grown. The shrub here acquires great luxuriance ; is diligently watched over ; its farmyards, its drying establishments, are on a scale of great magnitude ; and it furnishes us with a sound black tea, of suffi- cient aroma, strength, and taste to gratify the palate. This province is described as highly picturesque : it is separated from the rest of the empire by a chain of mountains, surrounding it on every side towards the land, whilst rugged cliffs, which gra- dually diminish in height, gently undulate towards the sea. Although the elevations are considerable, yet admirable localities are furnished for the tea- plant amongst numerous fertile valleys and lux- uriant plains, from which it gradually spreads up almost to the summit of the loftiest range of hills. In the district of this province, which is called Keen-nung-foo, are situated some tea- farms, which have acquired considerable celebrity ; for the pro- duce of the Woo-e-shan mountains is eagerly pur- chased. It is, however, attended with considerable expense ; for, from the absence of beasts of burden, of wheel carriages, or of tolerable roads, each year's growth must be transported on the shoulders of porters over the intervening mountains. Each chest of tea is carried on a man's back. Although, from this district, eighteen miles are only to be traversed to reach Kwang-tun or Canton, yet sometimes the farms are situated three hundred miles from this great depository, and, as many mountain passes, rivers, creeks, and canals, intervene, the transport- ation may require weeks, nay, months. The general AND MORAL EFFECTS. 17 vegetation of the province of Fokien is by no means luxuriant, for the soil is poor ; still the industry of its inhabitants has led them to the successful cul- tivation of some of the more highly prized fruits. The natural growth of the province is not parti- cularly striking, and even the tea-plant district is confined to a very limited range ; the farmer gener- ally asserting that the good black tea grows only within a circumference of about thirty miles, and that all which is found beyond it is of an inferior character. They prefer the produce of the sides of the hills ; and, although it is the custom of the country to plant both hill and vale, the preference is given to that which is brought from elevations. Keang-nan, which has been of late divided into two provinces, is represented as one of the most favoured spots on the face of the earth. It is asserted that the natives of this part of China are remarkable for excelling all their countrymen, not only in agricul- ture, in manufacture, but likewise in literature and accomplishments, and that there is an evident su- periority in every thing that springs from it. This important province consists of an immense plain, interspersed by a few hilly ridges : one of the noblest rivers of the old world, Yang-tse, flows through it. It is here that one of the most delicate and highly prized of the green teas, the Song-lo, is cultivated and prepared. Che-keang is likewise a province of much agricultural industry, and a nur- sery for the tea-plant. Keang-se and Keang-soo are both remarked for their salubrity, for their valuable productions ; and amongst the chief em- c 9 18 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL ployments of the people is the rearing and drying the leaves of the shrub. It would appear that, notwithstanding all the labour and skill that may be employed, there are many situations in which the tea-plant, though its natural hardihood is great, vegetates produc- ing flowers and seeds, but does not yield leaves fit for the uses to which they are generally ap- plied : hence, great attention is at all times de- manded, and judgment in the selection of a spot fully adapted to the development of its higher qualities. This does not altogether depend upon temperature or range of climate, for it has been observed that the winter of China is much more severe than that which occurs under corresponding latitudes in Europe. De Guignes has remarked that the heat or cold is dependent on the di- rection of the winds. Cold is predominant during the months of October, November, December, Jan- uary, February, and March, whilst the wind during the greater proportion of that time is either north or north-east. In April and May the prevailing wind is south-easterly, in June and July south and south-westerly, and it returns south by east by Au- gust and September. Dr. Falconer has drawn as a conclusion,, from a consideration of the different tea localities, that the tea is produced over an extent of country where the mean annual temperature ranges from 73° to 54° 5' of Fahrenheit ; where the heat of summer does not descend below 80°, and the cold of winter ranges from 54?° to 56° ; where the differ- ence between summer and winter heat is on the northern limit 59°, and on the southern 30° : that AND MORAL EFFECTS. 19 it is cultivated in the highest perfection where the mean annual heat ranges from 54° to 64°. That rain falls in all the months of the year, and that the moisture of the climate is on the whole moderate. These remarks will apply to Japan, in some parts of which excellent teas are produced. It is universally admitted that the tea-plant thrives best in an open exposure to the south. Dr. Abel has given a very good account of the soil, and the geological structure of the tea localities, drawn from his own personal observ- ations, which are thoroughly borne out by all that has been made known to us since he ac- companied Lord Amherst on his embassy. The shrub succeeds best on the sides of mountains, where there can be little accumulation of mould, and in a gravelly soil, formed either from disinte- grated sandstone or by the debris of the rocks, con- sisting chiefly of sandstone, schistus, and granite. Le Comte states that the best tea is produced in a gravelly soil, the next best in a light or sandy soil, and the inferior in a yellow soil. Sir George Staunton thus describes the ap- pearance of the tea-tree, as it was seen by Lord Macartney's embassy, for the first and only time, on its return from Pekin, on the river Chen- taun-kiang, in the latitude 29° 30" N., "On the sides and tops of earthern embankments, di* viding the garden-grounds and groves of oranges, the tea-plant was for the first time seen growing like a common shrub, scattered carelessly about/' Mr. Barrow speaks of the same spot : — " We had thus c 2 20 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL far passed through the country without having seen a single plant of the tea-shrub ; but here we found it used as a common plant for hedge-rows, to divide the gardens and fruit groves, but not particularly cultivated for its leaves." The tea-plant is a beautiful shrub, bearing some resemblance to the myrtle : it bears a yellow flower, which is exceedingly fragrant. Its similarity to the camellia in its general appearance, in the shape of its leaf, in the formation of its floral developments, had struck the common observer, and it was re- marked that the Camellia Oleifera bore so strong a resemblance, that even the practised eye had great difficulty in distinguishing one from the other when out of flower. A question has been agitated amongst botanists whether the thea be not a camellia. Dr. Wallich considers the two genera differ widely from each other, and that this is marked by the formation of their respective fruits, in both of which it is a roundish, more or less triangular, dry capsule, of three distinct cells, containing one solitary seed or nut ; and it bursts at the time of its full maturity vertically, by means of three fissures extending from the top of its capsule towards the base ; but this bursting, or, as it is botanically termed, dehiscence, takes place differently in the two cap- sules. In the tea, it proceeds along the middle of the lobes or angles, thus six valves are formed, each lobe splitting into two hemispherical valves. In the camellia, it bursts along the middle of each side, consequently, alternating with the corners into three very distinct valves. The general outline of the capsule of the tea is triangular, divided into three AND MORAL EFFECTS. 21 globular lobes ; whilst the camellia is very obscurely triangular, without any tendency to become deeply three lobed. Mr. Griffith, in his admirable report of the tea-plant of Upper Assam, has discussed very ably this opinion of the great botanist, Dr. Wallich, with whom he does not agree. He expresses his opinion that, from examination of the Assamese tea-plant, and of two species of camellia from the Khasiya hills, that there is no difference between thea and camellia, and he has given some drawings which show the perfect identity of the two plants. He is borne out by the opinion of several European botanists, whose authority is quoted by Sir William Hooker, in his account of the tea-plant in the Bo* tanical Magazine. Under any circumstances the distinguishing marks must be acknowledged to con- stitute rather a specific than a generic difference. Few questions have been more agitated, and less satisfactorily solved, than whether there be two species of thea, from the one of which is exclusively obtained the green tea, and from the other the black, or whether there be not many varieties, from which, according to the mode of preparation, either of the teas may be obtained. To the latter opinion, after much examination, I am inclined to yield. The words of Dr. Lettsom were long considered the authority to which deference was to be paid : — " There is only one species of this plant ; the differ- ence of green and Bohea tea depending upon the nature of the soil, the culture and manner of drying the leaves. It has even been observed that a green tea-tree, planted in the Bohea country, will produce c 3 22 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL Bohea tea, and so the contrary;" and he further adds, " I have examined several hundred flowers, both from the Bohea and green tea countries, and their botanical characters have always appeared uniform." This opinion has been supported by many sys- tematic botanists, although several (at the head of whom is to be placed Linnaeus) considered that the teas were produced by two distinct species. Most of those who have resided in China believe that there is but one shrub, which is the exclusive source of all the varieties and shades of the tea of com- merce. Mr. Pigou states that the Chinese all agree that there is but one sort or species of the tea-tree, and that the difference in tea arises from soil and manner of curing. Mr. Marjoribank observes, that the tea-plants of all the provinces are supposed to be of one species, the difference in the manufac- tured article arising from difference of soil, climate, and manufacture. Green tea has been made in the districts from whence the black tea comes, and vice versa. Mr. Crawfurd says,- — " The tea is known to be bo- tanically one species ; so is the vine, which furnishes almost a complete parallel ; and I believe every distinction between black and green tea to be owing to climate, soil, and cultivation." Mr. Reeve, on the other hand, whose long residence in China, and whose scientific acquirements obtain for his opinion the highest respect, stated, before the Committee of the House of Commons, that his conclusion was that the green tea was not made from the same AND MORAL EFFECTS. 23 plant as the Bohea ; but that there were two distinct varieties, if not two distinct species. Chowqua, a Chinaman, who had been eight times in the Bohea country, and who had remained there from four to six months on each occasion, is often quoted, as having said that Bohea may be cured as Hyson, and Hyson as Bohea, and so of all sorts ; but that experience has shown that teas are cured as best suit the qualities they have from the soils where they grow ; so that Bohea will make bad Hyson, and Hyson, though very dear in the country where it grows, bad Bohea : however, in the pro- vince of Fokien, which may be called the Bohea province, tea has, for some few years, been made there after the Hyson manner, which has been sold at Canton as such. After such conflicting opinions, it must be acknowledged that it can only be by patient and careful examination of the plant, under all the circumstances of its cultivation, that we can clear up the doubts ; and, until some scientific botanist shall have had opportunities of witnessing on the spot the modifications produced by culture and soil, we must consider, adhuc sub judice lis. The plant is an evergreen, growing to the height of five or six feet: if left to itself it would grow to thirty feet ; but this very seldom occurs. Dr. Lettsom has the following note : — u Authors widely differ respecting the size of this tree. Le Comte says it grows of various sizes, from two feet to two hundred, and sometimes so thick that two men can scarcely grasp the trunk in their arms." The description, however, given by Le c 4< 24« TEA; ITS MEDICINAL Comte, of what he himself saw in the province of Fokien, is very different. He thus speaks : — " En- tering upon the province of Fokien, they first made me observe ihea upon the declining of a little hill. It was not above five or six feet high: several stalk3, each of which was an inch thick, joined together and divided at the top into many small branches, composed a kind of cluster, somewhat like our myrtle. The trunk, though seemingly dry, yet bore very green branches and leaves. These leaves are drawn out in length at the point, pretty straight, an inch or an inch and a half long, and indented in their whole circumference. The oldest seemed somewhat white without : they were hard, brittle, and bitter. The new ones, on the contrary, were soft, pliable, red- dish, smooth, transparent, and pretty sweet to the taste, especially after they had been a little chewed." The bark of the tree is of a chesnut colour toward the top, and below somewhat of the ash colour; the extremities of the twigs are greenish, the branches are numerous, irregular, slender, and of different sizes ; the leaves have their lamina smooth, very glossy, the upper surface rising in several places in roundish swellings, hollow underneath, veined, of a firm texture : they are alternate, ellip- tical, obtusely serrate, with the edges between the teeth recurved. Lettsom observes that the apex is emarginate, and that no author has remarked this obvious circumstance. Even Kaempfer himself says, " that the leaves terminate in a sharp point." They have a footstalk, which is very short, round on the under side, on the upper side flattish, and AND MORAL EFFECTS. 25 slightly channelled. They are like those of the Morella cherry-tree in shape, colour, and size, when full grown. A very striking difference was percept- ible in the colour, shape, glossy appearance, and size of the two plants, designated black and green, which were placed before the Medico-Bo- tanical Society by Mr. Loddige. The branches contain a great number of flowers, which bear a very strong resemblance to the wild rose. The number of petals vary much, and by no means bear out the idea of Linnaeus and of Sir John Hill, who, in making two distinct species, say that the Bohea flower has six petals, and the green nine petals. The agriculturist, who thoroughly knows " Quid quasque ferat regio, et quid quaeque recuset," takes care to plant his farm for the growth of tea on the side of a hill, or in a valley sufficiently wide for the due circulation of the atmospheric air, and the collection of the rays of light. His attention is generally repaid by the abundance of his crops. He carefully selects, too, a locality remarkable for the fertility of the soil. Both Barrow and Ellis speak of the luxuriance of vegetation in the neighbour- hood of the spots in which the farms were seen. Barrow says, " There was no want of trees, among which the most common were the tallow- tree and the camphor, cedar, firs, and the tall and majestic Arbor Vitcs. Groves of oranges, citrons, and lemons, were abundantly interspersed in the little vales that 26 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL sloped down to the brink of the river." Ellis, in his account of the ascent to the summit of the mountains between Ta-long and Ta-ling-shien, tells us. " The route led through a valley where we for the first time saw the tea-plant. It is a beau- tiful shrub, resembling a myrtle, with a yellow flower, extremely fragrant. The plantations here were not of any extent, and were either surrounded by small fields of other cultivation, or placed in detached spots. We also saw the ginger in small patches." About three days after he observed it in the island of Woo-sha-kya, where the embassy was detained, in consequence of the wind being too strong for the continuance of the navigation. The day was passed in walking round the island, the greater part of which was cultivated with rice, wheat, and vegetables. The cultivation on the opposite bank was cotton, buck-wheat, and beans. One plantation of tea was met with in full flower." The places that produce fine teas are, like the spots which grow fine wines,, extremely limited : those producing coarse teas are widely spread. The proprietor of the tea-farm must not only under- stand agriculture, but he must likewise be ac- quainted with the laws that govern vegetable life : he must know the precise moment at which the leaves are imbued with their richest juice; he must judge when they are to be gathered for the delicacy of their flavour, and when for that coarser taste which suits the various palates of his customers. In picking he must be very careful, lest he injure the crop in the early spring, and thus AND MORAL EFFECTS. 27 prevent the development of the second and third gatherings, which, though not of equal value, are of much importance to him. He must likewise be aware of the adjustment of the heat necessary for the drying and curing the leaves ; upon which, probably, quite as much depends as upon the state of maturity to which the leaves have arrived. These minutiae, which to the superficial observer appear but of little moment, are of the greatest consequence. Those who have paid the slightest attention to the collection and the preparation of leaves employed for medicinal purposes, will be aware of the great nicety, and the extreme carefulness, requisite for the preservation of the innate virtues of plants. Some of these are only to be gathered on a dry and sunny day, as soon as the dew is off; for should the slightest portion of moisture remain upon them, after they have ceased to be connected with the parent stem, they become perfectly inert. A particle of fluid upon digitalis or foxglove, one of the most powerful indigenous remedies we possess, and which reduces rapidly the action of the heart, may totally destroy its activity. The deadly aconite, belladonna, henbane, will be useless if they be not dried in a room from which the smallest ray of light is excluded. Hemlock loses, too, its subtle and powerful aroma. However trifling the vast number of manipulations and the endless processes of drying may appear, they are of great importance, especially where the operations are carried on on a large scale. It is only by a practical knowledge of the 28 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL delicacy of vegetable matter, of the evanescence of its aroma, of the rapidity with which its compo- nent parts enter into new changes, so that fresh principles are developed, that we can form an estimate of the experience and the judgment re- quired in the simplest treatment of leaves for their varied purposes. At the proper period for the commencement of plantation, the ground is dressed with great care, most probably according to the custom of each particular cultivator, as we find to be the case with other plants useful to man. Any number of seeds suitable to the soil, not usually less than six or more than sixteen, contained in their capsules, are put into a hole four or five inches in the ground, at certain distances from each other : they are then allowed to vegetate, by some, without any other care ; by others, the greatest attention is paid to the removal of weeds, the manuring of the land, and occasionally watering. When the shrub has grown about three years, the leaves are ready for picking. This is done with the greatest care : they are not plucked by handsful, but each leaf separately. They are thus, although the process be somewhat tedious, enabled to collect, in the course of the day, fifteen pounds. The following account has been given of a tea- farm which supplies the imperial fa- mily with imperial or bloom tea: — "The plantation is inclosed with hedges, and likewise surrounded with a broad ditch for further security. The trees are planted to form regular rows with intervening walks. Persons are appointed to superintend the AND MORAL EFFECTS. 29 place, and preserve the leaves from injury or dirt. The labourers who are to gather them, for some weeks before they begin, abstain from every kind of gross food, or whatever might endanger commu- nicating any ill flavour : they pluck them, also, with no less delicacy, having on thin gloves." During the tea harvest, it would seem, great attention is paid to the diet of the husbandman. In the common tea-plant, the commencement of the leaf-gathering takes place in the early spring ; and three different crops are obtained during the summer. Scarcely, in the first instance, has the leaf attained its growth, and whilst it is yet bud- ding into life, than the picking commences ; and the tea will be fine in proportion to the tender age of the leaf; the most agreeable aroma and the most delicious flavour are then obtained from" it. A soft white down covers the first leaflets, which is called, in the Chinese language, Pa-ho, and hence our name Pekoe, the most exquisitely flavoured of those teas with which we are ac- quainted. Trees, until they reach the sixth year, furnish this tea. A few days' longer growth supplies us with the black leaf Pekoe. In the month of May, the leaves that have grown since the first gathering, having arrived at maturity, are stripped from the trees : these form the Souchong — the Seaou- choung, — "the small or scarce sort." About six weeks after this, there is a third gathering of the new crop thrown out ; and from the Chinese word, Koong-fou, signifying labour or assiduity, springs our term ^Congou. From this a particular part is 30 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL selected, called Kien-poey, — a selection which is known to us under the name of Campoy. The tea familiar to us under the appellation of Bohea, should be the produce of the district from which it derives its name : it is a rough preparation of the later-grown leaves, which yield a beverage of little strength and of inferior flavour. Green teas undergo the same kind of harvest. From the tender leaflets is produced Hyson ; and a very expensive kind, Loontsing, is more particularly prized : it was called Yutsein, " before the rains ;" whilst Hyson is a corruption from " flowery spring.'' The Gun- powder is a Hyson gathered with great attention, and rolled with much nicety and care : indeed, it would appear to be a selection of the more delicate leaves. The coarser and yellower leaves remaining after this selection are called Hyson Skin. The Twankay is the last gathered crop, and consists of an older leaf; in which less attention is paid to the manipulations. The judgment shown in collecting the leaves at the various seasons evinces a great knowledge of vegetable organization, and of the succession of phenomena which are developed during the pro- gress of life. It is in the early spring that the sap or vegetable blood has little to convey to the leaf but the mucilaginous principle, and that aroma, peculiar to each vegetable, of whose existence we are by its effects rendered sensible, but of which our means of examination are so limited. On the first bursting into existence, leaves and flowers are endued with an evanescent odour, which art has at- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 31 tempted to fix, and to diffuse through other bodies. Upon this much of the flavour of the plant depends ; and if we would wish to obtain all that strikingly characterises the vegetable, we must gather it as soon as this principle is at all developed. At a later period of the year, not only has the aromatic principle been exhaled, but the mucilaginous pro- perties are exchanged. A great proportion of the earthy phosphates exist in all plants in the month of May, but they are much diminished as the year advances. When the leaves have been picked, they are left in large bamboo baskets, exposed to the rays of the sun, being only occasionally stirred. After two or three hours, the peasants take the baskets into the house, and in the course of half an hour a series of manipulations commence, during which the manufacturer, at intervals of an hour, rolls the leaves three or four times between his fingers until they have become as soft as leather. When this operation is concluded, they are ready for the application of heat, for the purpose of drying and rendering them crisp. The temperature is adjusted according to the delicacy of the particular tea, and all the apparatus is regulated with the utmost nicety. The ordinary process is to place about two pounds of tea in a hot cast-iron pan, fixed in a small circular mud fireplace, heated by a fire of straw or of bamboo. The leaves are briskly agi- tated with the naked hand, to prevent their being burnt, and that each may have its due exposure to the proper action of the heat. When they have 32 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL become sufficiently hot, they are placed in a closely worked bamboo basket, and thrown from it upon a table, where they are distributed into two or three parcels. Another set of manipulators roll them into balls with great gentleness and caution, and by a peculiar mode of handling them, express any juice they may contain. The leaves after this are again taken back to the hot pans, again turned with the naked hand, and, when heated, again removed. They are then spread on a sieve, rolled again, and then exposed to the action of heat, the whole being placed over a charcoal fire ; during this stage great care is necessary, lest any smoke should affect the tea. In all the varied changes from basket to basket, and they sometimes undergo many, atten- tion is paid lest any receiver should ever be placed upon the ground. The number of exposures to the action of the fire is sometimes very great, and an examination takes place from time to time, to ascertain the state to which the leaves have arrived. When they become crisp, and are easily broken, they are removed from the fire,^allowed to cool, and the process again commenced, until the experienced manufacturer is fully satisfied with the condition and the proper appearance of the tea. Although the names of a great number of teas are familiar to us in this country, it is to be borne in mind that these are almost all arbitrarily applied ; that each one is not the peculiar produce of a particular farm; nor are the crops of different lands kept as distinct from each other as are the different wines from particular vineyards. The AND MORAL EFFECTS. 33 agents of the Hong merchants visit the farms at the proper periods ; they purchase from the grower his stock ; they mix together the leaves from many farmers, in such proportions as they think most suitable to the predominant taste of their customers. The great discrimination they exercise is between the leaves of young and old shrubs : they employ a number of women and children to distribute these into fine, middling, and common teas; they then mix them, or they cause them to undergo a process of refiring, and make the crop, which has been ga- thered from an inferior farm, bear the resemblance of a better tea, or they mingle the two together. These agents possess a great deal of judgment ; and it is generally believed that, notwithstanding they have the cunning and love of profit which belongs to the Chinaman generally, they execute their task with much fidelity. It is also understood that the best teas of particular districts find their way into England. It is not, however, to be disguised, that they have undergone a greater degree of pre- paration than suits them for a Chinaman's taste ; and the residents at Canton consider that which they have for their own domestic supply to be much more agreeable and delicately flavoured than that which reaches our markets. This, however, may be accounted for from the well-known fact, that all vegetable products must lose a considerable portion of their natural aroma by long keeping, and par- ticularly by transportation across the ocean. A certain degree of heat is absolutely necessary for the tea even in China ; for if it be eat when newly D 34 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL gathered, or previous to its having undergone any operation, it proves narcotic, and is ranked amongst the deleterious vegetables. It is therefore kept for some time and dried by heat for the use of the Chinese ; but for the European markets it undergoes a much longer process, which, if it do not exert much influence upon the characteristic qualities of the infusion made from it, must decidedly dissipate much of that aroma which gives to plants one of their powers. The teas that have been collected by the agency of the persons employed by the Hong merchants are made into parcels, containing from one hundred to six hundred chests ; and each of these bears its own peculiar mark or characteristic name, so that the purchaser is enabled to ascertain and to dis- tinguish each particular variety brought into the market. These distinctive marks are known only to those who have been initiated into the mysteries of the trade carried on by the Chinese with the English or American merchants, who are the prin- cipal Canton consumers, as the markets of Russia are entirely supplied through Tartary, and are principally dependent on the great fair held an- nually at Nishni Novogorod, at which are assembled merchants from all the provinces of Asia, who there interchange their commodities upon a scale now unknown* in Europe, but for which the great fairs of former days were established. These have since been superseded by the more organized com- munication which commerce has gradually intro- duced. AND MORAL EFFECTS, 35 Bohea is the name of a district celebrated for the growth of black tea, and it is in China generally ap- plied to the varieties of black tea brought from that particular part of the country, in contra-distinction to those grown elsewhere ; thus, Bohea Congou, Bohea Souchong, or Bohea Pekoe, would imply that they actually came from that part of the country. In England, however, the appellation Bohea was given to all black teas brought to this country, before we admitted our present distinctions. We now apply it to the lowest grade of the black tea ; that which was brought into this country by the East India Company, was known by the exporters under the names of Canton Bohea and Fokien Bohea. The Canton Bohea is composed of the tea which remained unsold by the persons who supply the European market at the close of the season, in con- sequence of its inferiority to the rest of the supply. To this refused portion, an inferior tea from Wo-ping is added, which previously undergoes fresh firing, to enable it to bear its voyage to England. These two varieties form together a tea, which can be afforded cheaper to the consumers here, in comparison with the better sorts of the article. The composition varies in its quantity of Wo-ping, which is an inferior Congou, according to its price in the market : it has seldom less than five-tenths, but if the Congou happen to be cheap, the quantity is increased. The Fokien Bohea, although it be not a mixture, is not much more valuable ; it is made up of the last leaves gathered late in the year, and of the general refuse of the tea leaves, after all the best have been d 2 36 TEA I ITS MEDICINAL & gathered. When Bohea is brought to market in Eng- land, it is frequently mixed with other teas, and is sold under three distinct grades, — ordinary, good, and middling Bohea ; and the better sort of Boheas often approximates very closely to inferior Congou, so that some judgment is necessary to distinguish them. At an early period Bohea was a very much worse tea than it now is, for not only was it com- posed of the large old leaves, and made up of those which had been damaged during manipulation, but leaves were substituted for it, which had never grown on the tea-shrub. It has gradually improved, and much of that which is now in the country fur- nishes a tolerably good beverage. Bohea, which at one period formed about a sixth of the importation made by the East India Company, has gradually diminished. It seldom un- dergoes such careful examination as do the other teas. That which is ordinarily found amongst tea- dealers presents a mixture of large leaves and small, with a considerable quantity of pieces, either so much broken or crushed as to resemble dust. The colour is a darkish brown ; the best is of a smaller size and a blackish hue : there is occasionally a tinge of green at the edges; sometimes the larger leaves adhere closely to each other ; those that are yellow are not good. A quantity of stalks may be found amongst them. The aroma is very faint, and has been generally compared to that which emanates from hay kept for a great length of time. If it have a faint smell, it is seldom good. Upon infusion this tea gives a mahogany colour to the water. It has a ' AND MORAL EFFECTS. 37 bitter taste, and requires much milk and sugar. This tea has not now a very great consumption in this country ; for even the humbler classes, if their means at all admit of it, will not purchase it: gener- ally speaking, they are excellent judges of tea. There is on this subject some very interesting in- formation to be collected from the evidence of numerous respectable tea-dealers examined before a Committee of the House of Commons. Most of them were residents in large towns, and had ample opportunity of becoming acquainted with the pre- vailing taste of the industrious inhabitants. Messrs. Nutter of Birmingham observed, on that occasion, that the improvident poor buy Bohea, not from preference but necessity ; whilst the provident and industrious consume scarcely any of the Bohea. Mr. Thorpe of Leeds likewise said, that the working and middling classes always buy the finest tea; and these opinions are amply borne out by the testi- monies of Mr. Weatherall of Stockton, Mr. Ridout of Canterbury, Messrs. Macdowell and Trainer of Wiveliscombe, Messrs. Constance and Matthews of Bath, Mr. Bryant of Bristol, Mr. Heming of Perth, and Mr. Watson of Newcastle. Mr. Miller, of the firm of Miller and Lowcock, at one period the largest purchasers of teas at the East India Com- pany's sales, said that they have supplied to their correspondents in England in five years, upon an average, five hundred thousand pounds' weight of all other descriptions of tea, to one hundred thousand pounds' weight of Bohea. In Scotland they have supplied, upon the average, one chest of Bohea to J) 3 38 TEA ;' ITS MEDICINAL nine of Congou. In Dublin they have not had a very extensive, but a very respectable, business; and two of their principal friends there have never had a single chest of Bohea ; but he believed the average to be, as Mr. Butler, a respectable mer- chant, stated, one chest of Bohea tea to eight of Congou. He likewise stated that the poor are ex- cellent judges of tea, and have a great nicety of dis- crimination, preferring good Congou ; and that they will walk very considerable distances to purchase at a shop at which they can rely. It would alto- gether appear, that a very small quantity of Canton Bohea is sold in this country in the state in which it is imported, but that it is mixed by the retailer with the Congou tea, and that it would require a very discriminating eye to judge of the difference between a superior Bohea and an inferior Congou. Congou, or Cong-fou, is a superior kind of Bohea : the leaves are gathered from the shrub somewhat earlier, or it may be occasionally a selection from the best Bohea : it has a greater variety of qualities than Bohea, and has had considerable attention paid to its preparation for its exportation from China: it does not yield so high a colour to water as Bohea, a pale amber being the general result : the leaf has a blacker appearance, should feel crisp, and be easily crumbled : its smell is agreeable when good, but, when indifferent, it has a heated smell, and a faint and unpleasant taste ; much of these qualities will depend upon the selection. In London there are three varieties acknowledged by the trade, — Congou, Campoi Congou, and Ankoy Congou. The AND MORAL EFFECTS. 39 Campoi has an agreeable violet smell, and is re- markable for its pleasant flavour ; it is so little to be distinguished from Souchong, that the East India Company gave whichever name they pleased to the importation, according to the demand for the one or the other in the British market. A great deal of their tea imported as Souchong, should have been brought forward as Campoi ; and it may fairly be stated that, practically, between Souchong and Campoi there is no very intelligible difference ; it may certainly be somewhat fresher, but it does not possess any marked superiority over good Congou. The inhabitants of the district called Ankoy, have exerted themselves much in the cultivation and pre- paration of tea ; and they convert a good crop of the tea into a very excellent quality, a portion of which they especially attend to for the English market ; although the English residents at Canton do think not very highly of the Ankoy Congou ; nor has it become a favourite in this country : its flavour is said to be lost on the voyage. There seems to have been a prejudice against this tea; and although the inhabitants of the district have the reputation of endeavouring to make a character, yet they do not appear to have succeeded. It is said that they often mix their products with the leaves of other trees ; and Milburn, in the Oriental Commerce^ ob- serveSj " that not being much esteemed in London, it should not be taken by the commanders and officers to exchange for such part of their invest- ments as cannot be disposed of by public sale ; it should be rejected if it possibly can," he continues, d 4 40 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL " and any other tea taken instead of it/' Congou is the tea most consumed in England; but a part of that which is retailed, is a mixture of Congou and of Bohea, which is sold under the general name of Congou. The proportions of these mingled to- gether, vary according to the tea-dealers' idea of that which may suit his customers generally, and also for the purpose of increasing his profit. The great mass of the inhabitants of London like a good strong-flavoured Congou; and they think very justly, that two spoonsful of Congou will go further than three of an inferior class of tea. The wholesale dealer only mixes the tea when called upon to do so by the retail trader ; nor would he maintain the high character which belongs to that class of merchants, if he were not to sell as Bohea that which he ob- tained as such, and Congou without altering its quality ; but the tea-dealer upon the smaller scale is constantly called on to suit the caprice of the consumer, and is often obliged to make up a tea to suit a particular part of the country. Since permits have ceased to be required for the transport of tea from one place to another., opportunities occur, which the greedy tea-dealer avails himself of, to mix up teas of various grades, without reproach to his conscience. Some individuals have made large for- tunes by the exhibition of great judgment in making mixtures, which have gained the estimation of the consumers ; and to this there can be no objection, if it be honestly carried into execution. Souchong. Seaou-chung, the small kind, is a good tea, well flavoured, and supposed to be some- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 41 what of a higher quality than the best Congou ; it is said to be very carefully dried ; it is crisper and drier than the other black teas ; its smell is more fragrant, and it is a little rough to the palate. It forms a good infusion of a light amber colour, and the leaves change to a reddish brown. There are two kinds of Souchong which do not find their way as generally recognised teas, as does the ordi- nary Souchong, namely, the Caper Souchong and the Padre Souchong. The Caper Souchong has obtained its name from the leaf being rolled up, so as to resemble the caper; it is one of the many varieties which was not regularly brought into the country by the East India Company; the leaves are of a fine black gloss, heavy; there is a plea- sant fragrance attached to them, and they are of a very agreeable flavour; but the Padre Souchong, or Pow-Chong, is even more highly tasted. It scarcely bears the sea voyage, and what was found in this country was generally brought as presents. There are now very large quantities imported, but of a very inferior quality. Pekoe, or Pa-ho, is the most valuable of the black teas ; although it may be collected from plants of all ages, yet the tea-tree of three years' standing yields the best. It should be gathered as soon as the leaves are developed, and should be the tenderest. The more flowers found amongst its leaves the better is the sort. Its flavour is very agreeable, but it is rather too strongly marked ; it is taken in a much more palatable form when mixed with Souchong, than when it is drank alone. 42 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL The green teas familiar to us are Hyson, Gun- powder, Singlo, and Twankay. The Hyson is the first crop of the green tea-plant ; it has a fine blooming appearance ; the leaf is small, and well rolled up, but on infusion it opens clear and smooth ; should it be shrivelled up, it is not good ; it is dry and crisp, and crumbles easily; it im- parts a green tinge to water, which acquires a strong pungent taste, yielding an agreeable odour. The Hyson Skin is a selection from the ordinary Hyson, of those leaves which are not so strikingly good ; if they are not so well formed, or not so well coloured, they are removed from the fine Hyson, and an inferior quality of this tea is the result. It has a brassy taste, without the fine aroma of Hyson ; nor has it the external characteristics, — there is very little bloom. On the other hand, Gunpowder is a selection from the Hyson of the very best leaves that are found ; these are rolled up into firm hard balls, which resemble small pearls. This tea is of exquisite flavour, and the drinkers of green tea prefer it to all others. The slightest exposure to air, or even the action of the breath, quickly dissipates the fine aroma which is one of its most striking characteristics. Adultera- tions of this tea have been so common, both in China and in this country, that the lover of this variety seems seldom satisfied that he is drinking it in all its purity : indeed, such are the impositions practised with regard to it, that it is sometimes advertised for sale at a less price than it can be purchased at Canton. AND MORAL EFFECTS, 43 Singlo and Twankay are the last gatherings of the green tea during the summer season, of which the latter is considered the best. These gatherings are distributed into two or three sorts. Great care is taken that the leaves of the first should be tho- roughly formed, that they should have their full development, and that they be perfectly clean. After this has been done, the second selection takes place of the leaves, which are in a secondary state of perfection, and what remains forms the inferior quality of these teas. The leaves of this sort are observed to be more pointed, and to be somewhat larger than those of the black tea. The infusion formed by these sorts is of a bright green ; the Twankay, however, yields a paler colour than the Singlo. There are many different sorts of both these teas, and either the art of preparation is less thoroughly understood, or they are more easily affected by the variations of temperature, of seasons, and of soil ; but certain it is that none of the green teas are so uniform in their characteristics as are the black. Many experienced persons believe that the green tea is altogether artificially prepared; whilst others consider that the black is the same leaf, but that it undergoes the process which gives it colour, and renders it much milder in its effects. The Chinese themselves rarely drink green tea, and then only the produce of particular farms, which have obtained a high character. The leaves of all of them are much more liable to be changed by the action of the atmospheric air, and very speedily lose that beautiful bloom which, amongst many tea- 44 TEA ; 'its medicinal drinkers, is highly valued. The heavier these teas weigh, the better are they imagined to be ; and they are much oftener scented by some other leaf; and great is the attention of the factor given to attract his customer by the fragrance and by the appear- ance. He often gives an additional dryness to the leaf after damp weather ; and generally, immediately before he brings it in the market for sale, he again dries it, to give the crispness which should belong to it. It often happens that those teas which strike the eye at Canton, are found, on their arrival in America, where they are very much esteemed and generally preferred to the black, not to satisfy the consumer, from the changes that have occurred during the voyage. These teas are often dried over the fumes of burning indigo ; and a very small quantity mixed with powdered gypsum, is delicately sprinkled over them, which adds to the colour. Different modes of flavouring the tea are likewise practised : the blossom buds of fragrant flowers are thrown amongst the finest teas. In the Loontsing Pekoe these are very discernible. After torrefaction has taken place in the iron pans destined for that purpose, the dried leaves are delicately touched with a camel-hair pencil, which has been dipped in spirituous solutions of resinous and aromatic gums ; and for this purpose a number of children are employed. The Chinese distinguish two kinds, more particularly the Boui, or Bou Tcha, and the Soumlo, which are reserved for the invalid. They likewise make it into cakes ; and of this sort there is a particular kind, called Mandarin Tea, which AND MORAL EFFECTS. 45 is an extract from the leaves. This is rarely im- ported into England. Sir Anthony Carlisle pre- sented, however, a very fine specimen of it to the Royal Medico-Botanical Society ; it was in the form of a dry, solid, blackish mass, easily broken and reduced to powder. There are other varieties which occasionally find their way into this country as presents. Ning-yong, Pouchong, Orange Pekoe, Hung Muey, have become within a few years fa- miliar to us ; and there is little doubt other names will soon be made known to us, and their characters will be investigated and compared. Amongst those that are brought to the Canton markets are, Quongsow, HeehKe, Kee Cheem, Sing Kee, Quang Tay, Quang Fat, Quang Tack, Ka Kee, Cheem Chunn, Wa Chunn, Yock Chunn, and other eupho- nous names, which may hereafter be as well known to us as any of those w T hich, from their long reputa- tion, have become standard teas. There is a tea known throughout the north of Europe under the name of Caravan Tea, and in some places under that of Kaisar-tae, or the Emperor's tea, imported into Russia by way of Kiachta. It is seldom found in this country ; the leaf is remarkably large, not much dried, and of a deep black colour, mixed with footstalks of the plant, and occasionally slender twigs of the smallest dimensions. These teas are in all respects superior in point of taste and flavour to those consumed in England, France, and Holland. They are not the produce of the provinces which furnish these markets, but of the centre of China. 46 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL They are conveyed by land, to which much of their superiority is to be attributed, as the sea voyage deteriorates all teas, and causes them to lose their strength, freshness, and flavour. As Mr. Crawfurd has observed, the difference between the teas coming sea-wise, and those brought by land through Kiachta is so remarkable, that it is no exaggeration to say, — that a pound of the last goes as far as two pounds of the first. The Caravan tea finds its way into Germany ; in Bohemia I have tasted some of a remarkably fine 'quality, but it is difficult to get it genuine. That which is occasion- ally met with in this country has lost much of its quality, though it still has a considerable share of flavour and aroma. It requires to be infused in much larger quantities than ordinary Souchong, which proves its inferiority to the Caravan tea of Russia. All classes consume the Caravan tea, from the lord to the serf. The course of the Russian trade with China is of excessive tediousness; and the conveyance by water occupies no less a space of time than three years ; when it is brought by land a year is consumed. It is, however, to be remem- bered in the computation of the water carriage, that the actual time in which it is on its jour- ney, is about three or four months in each sum- mer, for the rivers are frozen up and impassable for eight or nine months in each year. The black tea is that which is preferred ; for the green tea is not a favourite in Russia. The duty is precisely the same there on all the qualities, whether they be good, bad, or indifferent. The trade is carried on AND MORAL EFFECTS. 47 by the Russian merchants, entirely in barter, for the productions of Russia : hence the price of tea at Kiachta is unknown. All persons engaging in the traffic pay a sort of corporation tax, which licenses this employment : they are for the most part inhabitants of Muscovy, but any person may obtain the requisite permission on paying the droits des guildes. My own experience of the excellence of tea in Russia arose out of a curious incident, which occurred to me during a hasty visit I made to that highly interesting country. Previous to this adventure, I had been in the habit of tak- ing coffee, as my ordinary beverage, and was by no means satisfied with it. I had no idea of the pre- vailing habit of tea-drinking previous to my arrival at Moscow. In the course of the afternoon I left my hotel alone, obtaining from my servant a card, with the name of the street, La Rue de Demetrius, written upon it. I wandered about that magnificent citadel, the Kremlin, until dark, and I found myself at some distance from the point from which I started, and I endeavoured to return to it, and asked several persons the way to my street, of which they all appeared ignorant. I therefore got into one of the drotzskis, and intimated to my Cossack driver that I should be enabled to point out my own street. Although we could not understand each other, we did our mutual signs : and with the great- est cheerfulness and goodnature this man drove me through every street, but I could no where re- cognise my hotel. He therefore drove me to his 48 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL humble abode in the environs ; he infused the finest tea that I had ever seen in a peculiarly shaped saucepan, set it on a stove, and this, when nearly boiled, he poured out ; and a more delicious bever- age, nor one more acceptable after a day's fatigue and anxiety, I have not tasted. He gave me the provision his humble cot afforded, and seemed de- lighted that I cheerfully partook of it. I could not avoid becoming impatient, and expressing some anxiety lest I should not recover my hotel. He left the house, making me understand that he should not long be absent; and in about ten minutes he re- turned with a comrade, who evidently was an Asiatic, and addressed me in various dialects, all unintelligible. They seemed to give up the hope of understanding me, and again left me, to return with another person, who was a German, to whom I made myself easily understood, told him my tale, to which he listened with great attention, but had no idea there was such a street as La Rue de Demetrius. My Cossack friend, in no way express- ing the slightest impatience or neglect, set out upon another expedition, and returned with a Frenchman, who immediately translated my address into " Me- trirYsky," which was no sooner made known to my Cossack, than he cheerfully prepared his horse and his drotzski, again sallied forth, and brought me safe to my hotel, accepting the little gratuity I offered him almost reluctantly. When he understood, through the German, that I was English, his joy seemed great : he gave me as a reason, through the interpreter, that the Emperor Nicholas (of whom he AND MORAL EFFECTS. 49 spoke as a deity amongst men) loved the English. If the blessings of the poor inhabitants of his empire are dear to a monarch, none can more experience delightful sensations than the Emperor of Russia. Whatever may be the political feeling existing against an absolute monarch, it must be softened towards the individual, when we find him recog- nised by his people as a beneficent father. That damaged black leaves can be manufactured into green, an anecdote related by Mr. Davis fully proves. The remission of the tea duties in the United States, occasioned, in the years 1S32 and 1833, a demand for green teas at Canton, which could not be supplied by the arrivals from the pro- vinces. The Americans, however, were obliged to sail with cargoes of. green teas within the favourable season ; they were determined to have these teas, and the Chinese were determined they should be supplied. Certain rumours being afloat concerning the manufacture of green tea from old black leaves, Mr. Davis became curious to ascertain the fact, and with some difficulty persuaded a Hong mer- chant to conduct him, accompanied by one of the inspectors, to the place where the operation was carried on. Upon reaching the opposite side of the river, and entering one of these laboratories of fac- titious Hyson, the parties were witnesses to a strange scene. In the first place, large quantities of black tea, which had been damaged in consequence of the floods of the previous autumn, were drying in bas- kets with sieve bottoms, placed over pans of char- E 50 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL coal. The dried leaves were then transferred in portions of a few pounds each to a great number of cast-iron pans, imbedded in chunam or mortar, over furnaces. At each pan stood a workman, stirring the tea rapidly round with his hand, having previ- ously added a small quantity of turmeric, in powder, which of course gave the leaves a yellowish or orange tinge ; but they were still to be made green. For this purpose some lumps of a fine blue were produced, together with a white substance, in pow- der, which, from the names given to them by the workmen, as well as their appearance, were known at once to be Prussian blue and gypsum. These were triturated finely together with a small pestle, in such proportion as reduced the dark colours of the blue to a light shade ; and a quantity, equal to a small tea-spoonful, of the powder being added to the yellowish leaves, these were stirred, as before, over the fire, until the tea had taken the fine bloom co- lour of Hyson, with much the same scent. To prevent all possibility of error regarding the sub- stances employed, samples of them, together with the specimens of the leaves in each stage of the pro- cess, were carried away from the place. The tea was then handed in small quantities, on broad shal- low baskets, to a number of women and children, who carefully picked out the stalks and coarse or uncurled leaves ; and when this had been done, it was passed in succession through sieves of different degrees of fineness. The first sifting was sold as Hyson Skin, and the last bore the name of Young Hyson. The Chinese seemed quite con- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 51 scious of the real character of the occupation in which they were engaged ; for, on attempting to enter several other places where the same process was going on, the doors were speedily closed upon the party. There was an idea once prevalent, that the colour of the green tea was to be ascribed to the drying the leaves on copper ; but nothing can be more un- founded than such an opinion, as the pans, one of which was sent home by an officer of the East India Company, are of cast-iron. That copper may be detected in tea is true ; but Bucholz has shown that it exists in several vegetables ; in- deed, there are proofs that it enters into the com- position of a great proportion of animal and veget- able matter. It is found in coffee in very striking quantities ; from ten ounces of unroasted coffee there may be obtained, by the proper manipulations, a dense precipitate, which will coat two inches of harpsichord wire with metallic copper. And he who eats a sandwich, has much more to fear from the poisonous effects of this metal, than the drinker of green tea ; for the two slices of bread, the beef, and the mustard, all have been proved, by the ex- amination of the chemist, to be capable of forming in the stomach a metallic crust ; indeed, the only safe food would be potatoes, for in three pounds no cop- per could be traced. Dr. O. Shaughnessy, with a view of elucidating a question, as to the possibility of mistaking the symptoms of death by poison, took two eggs, three cups of strong coffee, and eight ounces of bread and butter ; he formed these into a e 2 52 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL mass, he dried it, and after incinerating it, submitted it to the proper tests, and the metallic copper was distinctly obtained. I have, in a lecture which ap- peared in The Lancet of last year, shown that there is little reason to doubt of its existence even in the human blood ; the proportion, however, is very minute. A Chinese, whose treatise on teas attracted con- siderable attention in Canton, and whose opinions were given in The Canton Register in 1838, states that the difference of the black and green colours arises from the different processes that the teas un- dergo ; he says, — " The tree which produces the green teas is the same as that which produces the black teas : there is no difference between the trunks of the two trees ; but there is a slight difference in the leaves. The black tea leaf is long and pointed ; the green tea leaf is short and round : and this difference is oc- casioned by the diversity of the two soils; the cause of the difference between the colours of the black and green teas proceeds from the different methods used in frying *W^ and firing 0'>*. the leaves. Frying is the first process ; and it is con- ducted in iron pans, which are placed over bright charcoal fires, and the leaves are stirred about quickly by the hand. Firing is the second process ; then the leaves are put into bamboo baskets, which are placed over slower charcoal fires, and the leaves are not stirred. " The green teas are only fried over slow fires ; AND MORAL EFFECTS. 53 the leaves are not afterwards fired in bamboo baskets. " The black teas are roasted in highly-heated iron pans, in quantities of only one to two taels (ounces) at a time, and until each particular leaf is tho- roughly dry and crisp ; the leaves are afterwards fired over slower fires ; hence the blackness of the leaf. Thus, although green teas can easily be made into black teas, black teas cannot be converted into green : because another colour can be given to green but not to black teas." That adulterations and mixtures of inferior teas with higher qualities are constantly practised in China, some of the importations which have re- cently been made fully prove ; and that impositions have been frequently detected, there can be no doubt ; but it is at home that we too often have had reason to complain of the want of honesty in the mercantile speculator, and the total forgetfulness of his own honour, and of the confidence which society reposes in its members. In every occupation of life there will be found individuals who, from base and sordid motives, will practise gross or scandalous impositions upon the public, regardless of the health and welfare of those who are unfortunately dependent on them. As a body, the dealers in tea bear as high a character as any tradesmen in this great community ; but the numerous trials and convictions that have taken place for the substitution of a spurious compound for genuine tea, prove that there have been mercenary wretches, who not only have manufactured an ar- e 3 , < 54 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL tide of doubtful quality, but have even sold dele- terious and poisonous mixtures. Various have been the prosecutions which have taken place in the Court of Exchequer, by which have been unveiled the infamous frauds practised by some of these ne- farious persons. In the year 1828 public attention was much excited by the disclosure of a regular manufactory of this fabricated tea : it appeared in evidence in court, that certain parties hired la- bourers to furnish them with the leaves of the white and black thorn tree, who were paid at the rate of two-pence per pound for the produce. These leaves, that they might be converted into an article resem- bling black tea, were first boiled, then baked upon an iron plate, and, when dried, rubbed with the hand, in order to produce the curl which belongs to the genuine tea ; the colour was given by logwood, so that the infusion of logwood was drunk instead of tea; this was, however, a harmless preparation in com- parison with that which the artificial green tea was made to undergo. In this manufacture the leaves, after being pressed and dried, were laid upon sheets of copper, where they received their colour from an article known by the name of Dutch pink, one of the component parts of this powder being white lead ; to which was added, for the purpose of pro- ducing that fine green bloom visible in good green tea, verdegris : thus it appeared, that, whilst the purchaser believed he was drinking a pleasant and nutritious beverage, he was swallowing the produce of the hedges round the metropolis, pre- pared in the most noxious manner. The persons AND MORAL EFFECTS. 55 who delivered their evidence stated only what they saw ; and their evidence was sufficient, as may be seen by the report of the trials given in the public journals of the day, to produce a most extraordinary sensation ; or, to use the words employed on one occasion, " a feeling of horror seemed here to per- vade the whole court." The penalties which fol- lowed in this case upon the verdict for the crown, amounted to 840/. ; a sum by no means large, when considered in relation to the enormity of the offence. Several informations were laid at the same time against tea-dealers and grocers; and the solicitor of the Excise had in court a box, containing up- wards of twenty samples of different qualities of tea, from the most costly to the most common. During one investigation Mr. Hyslop of Croydon stated, that in his perambulations through his woods and grounds, his notice was attracted by several women, who, he observed, were daily pick- ing ash, sloe, and elder leaves from the trees. He was fearful they would damage the young trees and hedges, and his curiosity led him to inquire for what purpose they wanted those leaves. One of the women informed him that they came every day from London, a distance of about twelve miles, to pick those leaves, and returned every evening with a bag full ; that they were paid at the rate of one penny a pound for them ; and that they were, as they understood, intended for an eminent che- mist and druggist in town, who used them in some patent medicines ; for, by a late discovery, ash e 4 56 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL leaves, particularly of young branches, were found in every respect a substitute for senna ; and that a great quantity were exported both to the East and West Indies. Mr. Hyslop further stated that, taking compassion on the poor women who came such a distance, and finding they picked the leaves care- fully, without doing any injury to the trees or hedges, he permitted them to pick as much as they chose; and that he likewise gave one of the women a shilling two or three times : but he did not in the least suspect that those leaves were intended to be imposed on the public for tea. On one occasion an excise officer gave evidence before the magis- trates, that he found in one house a quantity of leaves, half of them were ash, and a great part sloe leaves. The weight of what he found was about 166lbs. ; some of them being in a green state, the others manufactured : such as were green appeared to him be sloe leaves, or ash. Part of the leaves were laid out upon screens, and some on stoves, for the purpose of drying. He also found some sieves, upon which the manufactured article was spread out ; there was also an iron pot, in which was deposited a sort of colouring matter. In this pot he also found some leaves. The manu- factured article found in the house very much resembled tea. In another house he found, with other excise officers, twelve casks of fabricated tea, nailed down ; they were examined, and contained the article he had seen on the former occasion. The casks were such as American flour was com- monly imported in, and the surface was covered AND MORAL EFFECTS. 57 with paper. The leaves were brought before the magistrates in their varied stages of manufacture. One sort was made to be mixed with ordinary Bohea, in the proportion of six pounds of the spu- rious kind to two pounds of real tea. Some of the persons employed for this process were Prussian blue manufacturers. In order to allay the excitement of the public, as well as to do justice to themselves, the more respectable tea-dealers not only disclaimed all knowledge of the parties implicated in the fright- ful disclosures which had occurred, but strenu- ously pointed out how much their own interests would lead them to defend the public from the shameful impositions so practised. Amongst those who took an anxious part on the occasion, was Mr. Richard Twining : at one of the sales of the East India Company's teas, he dwelt forcibly upon the odium that would rest upon the whole body of tea-dealers, instead of a few obscure individuals, if they did not positively deny the reports in circulation, that nine-tenths of the tea- trade adulterated their tea with ash, sloe, and other leaves. He felt satisfied that no respectable house* in the City of London was guilty of such illegal practices, and therefore they ought not to suffer an imputation of so serious a nature to pass unno- ticed. At first he and other persons, the heads of the trade, thought that the falsehood of so general a censure was so glaring, that no person would give credence to it, and therefore it would be best not to notice the aspersion : but this statement 58 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL had gained such belief, that he thought it necessary that a committee should be appointed by the gene- ral body of the tea-trade, with a view to examine what course should be pursued to expose the per- petrators of such an abominable fraud. This proposition was seconded, and the appointment of highly influential persons to act as a committee Was made; but the determined manner in which the state prosecutions were carried on, quickly exposed and punished the real practisers of the deceit, the Board of Excise feeling, that, not only for the sake of the revenue, but for the satisfac- tion of the people, it was necessary to take imme- diate and decided steps. Sloe leaves have been more generally employed in this nefarious practice ; and in the year 1 778, there was a printed circular, signed by the chairman and secretary of a company of grocers at Norwich, stating that they had seen a small quantity of green tea, of which one fourth-part was avowedly sloe leaves. In the reign of George II. an act of Parliament recites, that " several ill-disposed per- " sons do frequently fabricate, dye, or manufacture " very great quantities of sloe leaves, liquorice " leaves, and the leaves of tea that have before been " used, or the leaves of other trees, shrubs, or plants, " in imitation of tea, and do likewise mix, colour, "stain, and dye, such leaves with terra japonica, "sugar, molasses, clay, logwood, and with other "ingredients, and do sell and vend the same as "real tea, to the prejudice of the health of his " Majesty's subjects, the diminution of his revenue, AND MORAL EFFECTS. 59 "and to the ruin of the fair trader :" the act then declares, "that the dealer in and seller of such "sophisticated teas, shall forfeit the sum of ten "pounds for every pound weight." In a report of the Committee of the House of Commons, in 1783, it is stated that the quantity of fictitious tea annu- ally manufactured from sloe, liquorice, and ash tree leaves, in different parts of England, to be mixed with genuine teas, is computed at four millions of pounds; and that, at a time when the whole quantity of genuine tea sold by the East India Company, did not exceed more than six millions of pounds annually. In a pamphlet on the tea-plant it is stated, that a gentleman had made the most accurate in- quiries on the subject of the adulteration of tea, which had led to his ascertaining the circum- stances connected with this iniquitous manufacture. He found that the smouch for mixing with black teas is made of the leaves of the ash. When gathered they are first dried in the sun, then baked ; they are next put upon a floor and trod upon until the leaves are small, and afterwards sifted and steeped in copperas with sheep's dung. When the liquor is strained off, they are baked and trod upon until the leaves are still smaller, when they are considered fit for use. The quantity manufactured in one small village, and within eight or ten miles of it, cannot be ascertained, but it is supposed to be about twenty tons in a year. One man acknowledged to have made up six hundred weight in every week for six months together ; the fine was sold at four guineas 60 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL per cwt., equal to nine-pence per lb. ; the coarse at two guineas per cwt., equal to four-pence half-penny per lb. Elder buds are manufactured in some places to represent fine tea. Among the herbs that have occasionally been employed, are some of the most deleterious, such as the black and the deadly nightshade, ivy leaves, the leaves of the alder and of the potato; mountain sage, and the husks of wheat, have likewise been similarly applied. Be- sides these noxious vegetables, various minerals have been employed, either to give a curl to the spurious leaf, or to dye it; vitriolic preparations, verde- gris, and copperas, have been thus made use of. There are various pamphlets in existence, published at the latter end of the last century, under the names of The Tea Purchasers Guide, and The Ladys and Gentleman's Tea Table and Useful Companion, which contain some curious histories of the importation of damaged teas, and their sale by government. It would appear that great quan- tities were captured on board some Dutch vessels, and sold ; they were little better than dirt, and so exceedingly disgustful (according to these author- ities) to the eye, that few would have thought them worth acceptance ; the smell of them was a musty brackishness, occasioned by the salt water having got to them while at sea, in which state they were for a considerable time. These, however, underwent the operations of fumigating, greying, and dyeing, with so much success, that they deceived persons conversant with tea ; and even on a trial, good tea and some of this recovered tea were pro- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 61 duced, to enable a jury to decide upon the com- parative qualities. The Chinese have been accused of themselves adulterating the tea, and undoubtedly this has been the case; they have, when discovered, re- paired the evil as far as they could, by exchanging that which has been declared bad. The brokers in the English market are generally upon their guard, and it would be a matter of the greatest difficulty for any bad trash to find its way into the market. They examine with great attention, and report with undeviating fidelity, that which they have observed, as to the character and appearance, as well as the weight, of the contents of every chest offered at the general sales. The deceptions practised in the tea trade have been long a subject of great notoriety and frequent complaint ; but some of those persons who have written most vehemently against tea-dealers, have singularly enough promoted their schemes by giving recipes on the art of mixing one quality of tea with another, and entering into minute rules for im- proving indifferent teas by the addition of the more highly flavoured qualities. These writers have stated that Pekoe is seldom agreeable to tea-drinkers alone, and recommend that one ounce of Pekoe should be added to a pound of fine Souchong. That Souchong or Congou may be improved by such means, there can be no doubt ; but those who have been in the habit of taking good Pekoe, would never think of such an admixture. It is, when used un- mixed, delicious ; it must however, to be fairlyjudged 62 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL of, be tasted without sugar, or with the smallest possible quantity, and likewise without milk. We are almost unacquainted with the delightful qua- lities of what may be designated a natural tea. Such changes, such mixtures, and such metamor- phoses, go forward in various quarters, that we have an artificial compound of a very doubtful character constantly presented to us. Those who are the advocates of this system, and the artists of this manufacture, excuse themselves on the plea that they must gratify the acquired taste of the people, who are for the greater part fond of a strong beverage, and of a tea that can be tasted in spite of the sugar and milk. They likewise dwell upon the fact, that even in our wines we prefer too often a mixture to a natural growth. Thus the claret, which is so highly prized in England, is a parti- cular manufacture, called Travail a VAnglaise, made up of several stronger wines. We are accused in this country of wanting the power of appreciating those delicate flavours to which some other people are so completely alive. We are declared to be ignorant of the nice art of administering gratifica- tion to the palate ; strong stimuli are required, whilst the more agreeable, yet lightly flavoured objects escape our attention. The tea sold under the name of Howqua's Mixture is formed from several teas; they are of a good quality, and have evidently been mingled with much knowledge of the prevailing taste of the tea- drinkers of this country ; this mixture has there- fore become a favourite with many individuals. AND MORAL EFFECTS. 63 Various importations of a doubtful character were made when the East India Company's privileges first expired, and great fears were entertained that the country would be inundated by an article of inferior quality. Some teas brought over in 1834, were indeed of a miserable description, and doubt- less found vent amongst the different classes of consumers. This evil corrected itself; the great competition in trade inducing the merchant to exert himself, and the tradesman to bring before the public that only which meets with a ready sale. The necessity of avoiding an entire dependence upon China for tea, has long struck some of our most intelligent statesmen ; and the idea of rearing the tea plant in India, of a quality and in quantity to satisfy the English market, was sanguinely entertained : the wealth that would accrue to Bengal had been estimated, after making every allowance for the fall in price, from two to three millions annually ; whilst the prospect of seeing the sandy and barren slopes of rugged mountains the seats of agricultural industry, was painted in glowing colours. The experiments, alike instructive in their failure and their partial success, which had been instituted by other nations, proved that in many parts of the globe the tea-plant vegetated and arrived at a state of the utmost perfection; for it had been reared in Java, St. Helena, Brazil, Penang, Carolina, Rio Janeiro, and even in Paris and in Corsica it had been obtained, equal in appearance to the tea of com- merce. Nor was the reflection absent from the minds of considerate men, that to China the commerce 64 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL carried on with this country was by no means so important to the government that they would make any very great effort to retain it : the suspension of the trade might produce serious inconvenience to the parties concerned, and might diminish the re- venues ; but the government reposes confidence in her enormous population, in the certainty that the empire contains within its own limits every thing necessary for the welfare of her people ; whilst the difficulties which her deserts, her mountains, and her seas, interpose, would prevent hostile aggres- sion. It was remembered, and the fact was quoted by Mr. Walker, in an able paper containing a pro- position for the cultivation of tea in the Nepaul Hills in 1834-, that the trade between Russia and China was interrupted in the reign of the Empress Catherine. This interruption caused the cessation of the importation from Russia to China of woollens and calicoes, and the industry of England supplied the want. The empress was first obliged to sue for a renewal of the intercourse, after a lapse of seven years. The Emperor Kein Lung replied, in a despatch, which is said more to have mortified the empress than any untoward occurrence during her reign, by calling the Russians beasts, dogs, and animals ; but added, that as he wished to be at peace with all the creatures upon the earth, if the trade was necessary to the Russians, it should be renewed. The Russians, too glad to avail themselves of the trade, were obliged to submit to receive, in ex- change for their Siberian furs, the mouldy tea, mil- dewed calicoes, musty rhubarbs, which had been AND MORAL EFFECTS, 65 collected at Kiachta during the suspension ; their remonstrances meeting with the reply, that as these goods had been brought for them from an immense distance, they must take them or none. There is no region of this earth that demands a more thorough investigation of its capabilities than does that magnificent portion of Asia, which this country has, by the exertion of its prowess in arts and in arms, rendered subservient to her pros- perity. Every day developes further powers for the use of man ; a new era has dawned upon India ; industry and ingenuity will speedily avail themselves of the mighty resources which she presents ; and the men of science, who are now investigating the agri- cultural produce of that immense territory, will, ere long, demonstrate to what a state of perfection may be brought some of those materials which have re* mained unexplored or forgotten. Amongst the vast number of subjects which were canvassed, and again neglected, at the end of the last century, was the possibility of introducing the tea- plant into India, and the practicability of preparing it in such a manner as to obtain supplies equal to the demand in the European markets. Sir Joseph Banks made a communication to the Court of Directors of the Honourable East India Company in 1778, and it was forwarded to Bengal. In the year 1793, when Lord Macartney was ambassador to China, he transmitted some plants from China to Bengal, his excellency having been informed that there were districts adapted for their cultivation. Dr. David Scott sent, in 1826, from Munipore, F 66 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL specimens of the leaves of a shrub which he be- lieved to be real tea. Mr. Corbyn, the highly in- telligent editor of The India Review, and Journal of Foreign Sciences and the Arts, found in the year 1827, at Sandoway in Arracan, a tea-tree, which appeared to him quite as fine as those in the neigh- bouring country of China. He observed it abun- dant on heights and in valleys. He noticed that one of the most luxurious petit dishes of the San- dowayese is a preparation of the tea leaf. They procure a considerable number of the leaves, and steep them in a pan for some time, after which they are beaten into balls ; with these are mixed oil and garlic. He forwarded a specimen of the leaves, and a plant in its natural soil, for the governor- general's gardens at Barrackpore. His report was at that time considered to be of sufficient import- ance to induce Lord Amherst to place it on the public records, and to forward a copy for the Ho- nourable the Board of Directors. In the year 1834, for the first time, the subject of producing tea in India became the subject of the consideration of the Government there; and Lord William Ben- tinck laid before his Council two memoirs, the one which his lordship had received from Mr. Walker of London, the other from Dr. Wallich, the super- intendent of the Botanical Garden near Calcutta. In February of that year, the Committee, which con- sisted of eleven English and two native gentlemen, was formed to collect information as to the soils and situations best adapted to the tea-plant ; and that Committee deputed their secretary, G. J. Gordon, AND MORAL EFFECTS. 67 Esq., to ascertain the nature of the soils in China, to collect tea-plants and seeds, and to procure a few- Chinese cultivators and tea manufacturers. Of his mission that gentleman has published a very inter- esting journal, the result of an attempted ascent of the river Min, to visit the tea-plantations of the Fokien provinces ; his party, however, met with so much opposition, that they were compelled to re- turn. An excursion to the tea-hills, which produce the tea known under the designation of Ankoy tea, was more successful, in company with Messrs. Gutzlaff, Rider, and Nicholson ; and he had oppor- tunities of gaining information of considerable im- portance. In the year 1834 the Bengal Government ap- pointed a Committee for the purpose of submitting a plan for the introduction and cultivation of the tea-plant. This Committee commenced its oper- ations by issuing a circular, which contained a ge- neral outline of such information as it had been enabled to collect, relating to the climate and to the soil of China most congenial to the growth of the tea-plant, and they requested to be put in possession of such knowledge as had as yet been obtained of any districts in India which resembled the tea-dis- tricts of China. A letter from Dr. H. Falconer, su- perintendent of the Botanical Garden at Serampore, to G. J. Gordon, Esq., the secretary of the Commit- tee, was published in the Journal of the Asiatic Society for that year, in which he pointed out the aptitude of the Himalayan range for tea culture ; he explained that, although there was no part of the f 2 68 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL Company's territories in India that could supply all the conditions of the tea-districts of China in re- spect of climate, yet there are situations which ap- proach it so nearly, as strongly to bear out the con- clusion that tea may be so successfully produced as to be an object of commercial importance; he thought that the plains of India were not adapted for it, for the mean annual heat of the climate, from 30°N.lat. down to the parallel of Calcutta, was much beyond that of the tea cultivation in China. In ad- dition to an excessive summer heat, with either hot "winds or a close scorching air during the day, they have a barely temperate winter, and heavy periodi- cal rains. Though some Chinese fruits, such as the leche, the loquat, the wampee, succeed, yet the tea-plant requires a greater cold to thrive in. He thought there was a great similarity between the climate of the tea-districts of China and that of the lower heights, or the outer ridges of the Himalayas, in the parallel of 29° 30', the chief difference perhaps being more moisture in this country. To his super- intendence, after his very able report, was com- mitted the charge of some tea- farms in the localities which he pointed out ; and results of the most satis- factory kind were obtained, and anticipations of the most sanguine success were indulged in. Whilst a series of very important investigations and trials were going forward, a discovery took place, which, in the language of the Agricultural Society of Calcutta, in an address to Lord William Bentinck, " we do not hesitate to pronounce as one of a most interesting and important nature, as con- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 69 nected with the commercial and agricultural interests of this empire. We allude to the existence of the real and genuine tea-plant of China, indigenous with- in the Honourable Company's dominions in Upper Assam. This shrub is no longer to be looked upon as a plant of doubtful introduction. It exists, already- planted by the hand of Nature, through a vast ex- tent of territory in Upper Assam, bordering on the Chinese and Burmese provinces of Shore and Yunnan, where it is at present cultivated for its leaf, both for consumption and exportation." The indefatigable researches of Captain Jenkins, the political agent, and Lieutenant Charlton, proved that the tea-shrub was indigenous to Upper Assam, which had been conquered from the Burmese ; and that it was found from Sadeya and Beesa to the Chinese frontier province of Yunnan, where the shrub is cultivated for the sake of the leaf. They forwarded samples of the fruit and leaves. The Tea Committee, knowing that several species of Camellia were native in the mountains of Hin- dostan, and that these were indigenous to the north- eastern frontier provinces, were disposed to expect that the tree which had excited the attention of these gentlemen would prove to be some species of Ca- mellia ; but the examination of the specimens which were placed before them fully convinced them that it was the identical tea of China, the ex- clusive source of all the varieties and shades of the tea of commerce. The Supreme Government then came to a determination of having the tracts of country producing the plant properly explored. The f 3 70 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL officers selected for this interesting object were Dr. Wallich and Mr. Griffith as botanists, and Mr. Mac- lelland as geologist. They were joined by Mr. Bruce as guide, who had acquired an intimate knowledge of the chiefs in whose country the re- searches were to be carried on. On the 29th of August, 1835, the Deputation left Calcutta, and ar- rived at Sadeya, the frontier station of Upper As- sam, early in January, 1836. On the eleventh of the month they quitted Sadeya for the tea-tracts. They arrived at Kufoo on the 15th ; on the follow- ing day they, for the first time, saw the tea in its native state. They found it at a distance of about two miles to the south of the village, in a jungle, its extent scarcely equalling 200 yards square measurement: to the eastward it terminated ab- ruptly ; in other directions it ceased by degrees. The ground was intersected with numberless small ravines : there were curious looking mounds, chiefly round the bases of the larger trees or the clumps of bamboos. The soil was light, loose, and of a decided yellow ; the situation was low and damp. It was in this locality that the Deputation observed trees of higher stature than those which they found in other stations. There were five places at which the tea- plant was examined in its native state: they were comprehended in a tract of country, situated between the parallels of about 27° 25' and 24° 45' north lati- tude, and 96° 94/ of east longitude. Mr. Griffith, in his very valuable report, has enu- merated the localities, and described their ex- tent with great precision. From this appears AND MORAL EFFECTS. 71 the incorrectness of the term which has been applied to them, of tea-forests. The tea-plant in none of these places exceeded the size of a small tree, and almost invariably occurred as an ordinary- sized shrub : the term patches, as applied by Ellis, is more descriptive of their appearance, than any other. They are all clothed with excessively thick tree-jungle, the trees being of a moderate size. So thick are these jungles, that Mr. Griffith doubts whether the tea-plants, not even excepting the arborescent ones, ever receive the direct rays of the sun. The tea seems to struggle for existence amongst many other trees, and becomes tall and slender, with most of its branches high up. All the tea-plants in Assam have been found to grow and to thrive best near small rivers and pools of water, and in those places where, after heavy falls of rain, large quantities of water have accumulated, and in their struggle to get free, have cut out for themselves numerous small channels. Mr. Bruce, in his account of the manufacture of the black tea, as now practised at Sudeya, has explained this by means of a diagram. The Deputation left the country on the 9th of March, after having col- lected the most satisfactory information, which was laid before the proper authorities. The consequence of these inquiries was a determination on the part of the Government to cultivate the tea, and to com- mit to Mr. Bruce the superintendence and complete management of the tea-tracts. He has furnished a map of all the tracts which he has discovered : there are many on the south side of the Debree river, f 4 72 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL called the Muttuck country, which appears to be one vast tea-district, its whole soil being adapted for the growth of the shrub. The inhabitants, ignorant of its value, have cut it down, and converted the tracts into paddy ground : but they have now learnt to prize it ; and when they bring to the super- intendent a branch from any new tract, they are rewarded. This country belongs to an independent native Rajah, but is under the control of the British authority. Some of the tracts are in the Singpho country, considerably within the British boundary. The tea-tracts in the Singpho country are much larger than those in the Muttuck. The inhabitants have long used tea, and profess to be good judges of it : they drink it, but prepare it differently from the Chinese. They pluck the young and tender leaves, and dry them a little in the sun ; some put them out in the dew, and then again in the sun, three successive days; others only after a little drying put them into hot pans, turn them about until quite hot, and then place them into the hollow of a bamboo, and drive the whole down with a stick, holding and turning the bamboo over the fire alt the time until it is full ; then tie the end up with leaves,^ and hang the bamboo up in some smoky place in the hut : thus prepared, the tea will keep good for years. All the tea-tracts are in the valleys. Few subjects are more deeply interesting, or involve more important considerations, although not immediately evident to common observation, than the laws which apportion the distribution of AND MORAL EFFECTS. 73 the different tribes of vegetables over the face of the globe. The influence which temperature, hu- midity, light, elevation, aspect, and soil, have upon these beings is such, that, without some know- ledge of them, the naturalist cannot estimate the value of such a discovery, as the existence of a particular vegetable in any district. If it can be proved that the greater number of these causes, which exercise an immediate influence upon the growth of plants generally, are nearly similar in two situations, we should draw the conclusion that a particular vegetable of the same species would be endued with the same characteristic qualities, if grown on either of these situations; an examina- tion, therefore, of the vegetation with which the tea-plant is associated, both in China and in Assam, becomes most interesting. The data upon which this is founded are unfortunately somewhat meagre. Mr. Griffith, however, has admirably availed him- self of the materials that have been placed in his hands ; and although much requires to be filled up, yet a fair conclusion may be drawn, that the Flora of Upper Assam approaches to a considerable extent to that of certain portions of China ; he has shown the singularity of the Flora of Upper Assam, which is of such a nature and such an extent as not to be met with elsewhere in India, at the same elevation, even as far north as the thirty-first parallel. He has given a list of 780 species for Assam, and 623 for China. The chief features of the Flora of either are tropical, and the singularity of . either consists in the existence of forms in tolerable 74 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL frequency, which could not have been expected from the latitude, and the small elevation above the sea. It is singularly remarkable, that of the eight genera adduced by Dr. Royle in proof of the simi- larity of the Flora of the mid region of the Hima- layas with that of the central provinces of China, five are found in the plains of Assam. Neither the climate of China, nor that of Upper Assam, is yet sufficiently known to us to enable us to form a comparison between them. In Assam there would seem to be great humidity : the rains are of long continuance ; they commence in March, and last till about the middle of October. Altogether we may fairly, however, draw the inference, that a very striking similarity in humidity, temperature, soil, and in all the leading features, exists between the province of Upper Assam and Keangnan and Kiangsoo, two districts of China most remarkable for the production of tea. Mr. Bruce has raised several plantations, and given a very interesting narrative of his proceed- ings, and of the effects of sun and shade. About the middle of March he brought three or four thousand young plants from their native soil in the Muttuck country, about eight days' journey, and planted them in tree-jungles, eight and ten close together, in deep shade. From 400 to 500 were planted in different places, some miles from each other; in the latter end of May he visited them, and found them as fresh as if they had been in their native soil, throwing out fresh leaves. As these thrived so well, he brought from the same . AND MORAL EFFECTS. 75 place 17j000 more young plants, and planted them in deep shade ; they threw out new leaves and flourished as much as could be expected, although the soil was nothing like that from whence they were taken — in which point alone the places differ. He converted a jungle into a tea-garden, on account of the Government ; where there was formerly one tea-plant, there were upwards of a dozen, the new shoots from the old cuttings forming a fine bush, and showing a great contrast to some of the original trees, which he permitted to stand, with slender trunks and a few branches only at the top. This tract or garden has yielded more tea than twelve times the same space of ground in the jungles would have done. He found that, as the plants that had been cut down grew up again, the leaves acquired a yellowish tinge from their exposure to the sun, and were much thicker than those in the jungles ; but this yellow tinge wore off, and the leaves became as green as those in the shade. As this tract answered so well by being cut down and set fire to, he tried the same experiment upon another tract close by ; and it came up to what he expected of it, eight to twelve new shoots having risen from the old stumps in the place of one. It is now a very fine tea-tract. Not knowing how this plan of cut- ting down might answer eventually, and how it might affect the plants, he took another tract in hand, allowed all the tea-plants to remain, but cut down all the other trees, large and small, that gave them shade, piled them up, and what he could not set fire to, he threw into the water-courses. These tea- 76 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL plants did well, but still each plant remains single, consequently has not many leaves, and is much in the same condition as when under shade. He has not had sufficient time to show what effect the sun may have on the leaves, and the tea made from them. This tract had a curious appearance, the plants appearing hardly strong enough to support themselves now they are deprived of their friendly shade. He has some other tracts under experiment ; some in which he permitted the jungle-trees to grow, and only cleared away the brushwood and other small trees, to admit the rays of the sun ; others with very little shade. He has cut off branches of the tea-plants and laid them horizontally in the ground, with an inch or two of earth on them, and these threw out numerous shoots the whole length of the branch ; other branches were simply pushed into the earth, and they have grown. This was all in the shade, nor does he think they would answer so well in the sun. Several samples of two sorts of black tea, which had been prepared from the leaves of the shrub discovered in Upper Assam, were received in Eng- land in August, 1838, and in the following November an additional supply was received. It appears that this consignment arrived in Cal- cutta on the last day of January, 1838. In a letter, dated the 20th March following, the Tea Committee observed that, " owing to a deficiency in the original packing, and the great degree of dampness to which the boxes had been exposed during the passage from Assam, a considerable portion of the AND MORAL EFFECTS, 77 tea was either wholly spoiled, or so much deteri- orated, that no process could have restored it to any thing like a fair quality. They had, therefore, rejected all that portion as unfit to be sent home, at least, with the present supply, deeming it a matter of primary importance that the value of the first samples transmitted to Europe should not be dimin- ished by any thing that might add to the many disadvantages under which they must necessarily arrive at a destination, where they would, in all probability, have to be subjected to the severe test of examination by the first tea inspectors in London. " The Committee begged most particularly to urge on the consideration of Government, that not only were the plants, from which the leaves were gathered, still in their original wild and uncultivated state, but the details of the various processes em- ployed in preparing and transmitting the tea, must . obviously have laboured under the many and serious difficulties and obstacles of a first attempt, but which may reasonably be expected will be diminished and progressively overcome, as further trials are made. Besides which, it ought to be borne in mind that, strange as it may appear, it is by no means settled whether it is not actually the green sort that has been prepared in the fashion of black tea ; a point which can only be satisfactorily determined when the green tea manufacturers are set at work in Assam." The appearance which is presented by the Assam tea is that of a large leaf, jet black, or dark brown, 78 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL much curled ; there are many pak-ho points in it ; some stalks are found in it ; its flavour very much resembles that of a burnt Caper Souchong ; it has a delicate and agreeable smell ; it makes a very plea- sant infusion, of a deeper colour than ordinary Souchong ; it has every quality that belongs to a good, sound, unadulterated tea. There cannot be the slightest doubt of its being the genuine produce of the real tea-plant ; and when all the facts are known relating to the preparation of tea, we shall have introduced into this country many varieties obtained from the farms which are now in cultiva- tion ; the sample already imported holding forth the promise of an excellence which will yet be obtained. This lately acquired territory of Assam is situ- ated at the extreme north-east frontier of Bengal ; it is almost in immediate contact with the empires of China and Ava, from each of which it is separated by a narrow belt of mountainous country, inhabited by barbarous tribes of independent savages, and which may be traversed in ten or twelve days. From this mountain range navigable branches of the great rivers of Nankin, of Cambodia, of Marta- ban, of Ava, and of Assam, derive their origin, and appear designed by nature as the great high- ways of commerce between the nations of Ultra Gangetic Asia. Mr. M'Cosh has contributed to the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal an in- teresting paper, compiled from original manuscripts placed in his hands by Captain Jenkins, the in- defatigable agent to the Governor-General on the AND MORAL EFFECTS. 79 north-east frontier, and from the letters of Major White, political agent for Assam. He .observes that this beautiful tract of country, though thinly populated by straggling hordes, and allowed to be profitless in primeval jungle, or run to waste with luxuriance of vegetation, enjoys all the qualities requisite for rendering it one of the finest in the world. Its climate is cold, healthy, and congenial to European constitutions ; its numerous crystal streams abound in gold dust and masses of the solid metal ; its mountains are pregnant with pre- cious stones and silver ; its atmosphere is perfumed with tea growing wild and luxuriantly ; and its soil is so well adapted to all kinds of agricultural pur- poses, that it may be converted into one continued garden of silk, cotton, coffee, sugar, as well as tea, over an extent of many miles. This valu- able tract is inhabited by various races, some of them acknowledge the authority of the Burmese, and some that of China. The Chinese have long carried on a commercial intercourse with the Singphos of Assam, and it would even appear that many thousand maunds of tea are manufactured at a place called Polong, and exported to China. Mung-kung, the chief depot of Chinese trade, situated on the Mugaum river, is from fifteen to twenty days' journey only from Assam. Amongst the recent discoveries made in the remarkable province of Assam, and which lead us to believe that it may rival, in its productions, the Celestial Empire, are six varieties of silk- worms, three of which are different from the well-known 80 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL Bombyx Mori, and from the two others indige- nous to India, which are worked in Bengal. India may therefore yet provide Europe with a material which may be made to supply the place of cotton and woollen cloth ; and the disappointment, which has so often been expressed by so many highly ingenious men, may yet be obviated by the produc- tion of a silk, which may vie with any that could be brought to market. A communication on the silk-worms and silks of Assam by Mr. Hugon, and another upon the indigenous silk-worms of India by Dr. Helper, which was read at two meetings of the Royal Asiatic Society of Bengal, lead to hopes that Assam may yet be found one of the most valuable acquisitions to the British empire. Still further to assist in the development of the vegetable treasures of the province, supplies of coal can be obtained. Three specimens of Assamese coal have been transmitted to Calcutta, which turned out to be of a very respectable quality ; they burn with a rich flame, being highly bituminous, and therefore suitable for steam- engine fires. There are four places in which large supplies are found. On the south bank of the Burhampootur river they are easily conveyed to the neighbouring streams, so that steam navigation may be carried on upon a great scale, and thus convey to the most distant points the natural pro- ductions of this highly favoured spot. All these points are of the deepest moment to this country; and deserve the most zealous investigation from a Government, whose object it must be to dif- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 81 fuse knowledge and truth throughout the civilised: world. The tea-plant being distributed so extensively- over large portions of Upper Assam, there can be no doubt that an ample supply for European con-^ sumption can be obtained thence. Even the pre- sent tea-tracts may be enlarged almost to any. extent, from the numerous seedlings found amongst the tea-plants, from the great number of seeds that can be collected annually, and from the number of cuttings that may be planted. There appears in one district a formidable enemy to combat with, there is scarcely a plant that has not some pa- rasitic insect living upon it, and destroying the. hopes of the cultivator; thus the tobacco often becomes the source of disappointment to the planter, for a worm attacks it in the month of July, and in an incredible short space of time destroys a whole field of plants, and his inroads are almost unknown until the mischief is complete. The hop-grower, too, has many such difficulties to encounter; his plantation is often ruined by si "fly/' which commences its attacks early in the spring, followed somewhat later by a winged fly, which not only commits a series of ravages, but is the precursor of another, which appears not to eat* but to poison the leaf. The enemy of the Assam tea-plant, it would appear from Mr. Bruce's nar- rative, has some singular characteristics: he had sown numerous seeds at Sudeya,' in the sun ; they appeared to thrive very well for the first year, but an insect, which he thinks is called a mole-cricket, G 82 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL nipped off the young and tender leaves, carried them into a hole under ground near the root of the plant, the consequence of which was that he did not succeed in rearing a single plant. This may be attributed to the exposure of the plant to the rays of the sun ; for, he observes, that he sowed some seeds in his garden under the shade of trees and bushes, where they succeeded remarkably well. The idea of Auguste de Candolle is, that the Bur- mese do not drink the tea of their own frontier, but import from China what they use ; and he employs this as an argument against the excellence of the Assamese tea, which he says is used as a pickle ; this is founded upon the valuable evidence of Mr. Crawfurd, who observes, " In the Burman empire they consume very little tea, besides what they grow themselves ; this last, although a genuine tea botanically, is a peculiar variety. The Bur- mese mix with it oil of sesamum and garlic, and give it to their guests as a token of welcome. There is a very large consumption of it, and it is a considerable branch of trade." De Candolle, how- ever, although he thinks the Assamese tea will prove of inferior quality, does not consider the dis- covery of less importance to Great Britain, and acknowledges the necessity of paying every atten- tion to its cultivation. The tea of Assam may be obtained at a cheap rate, when once the establishments for its growth and preparation are placed upon a proper footing. The land is of easy cultivation, and as the neces- saries of life are purchased at a cheap rate, labour AND MORAL EFFECTS. 83 will not be expensive. The cultivators will, of course, at the outset, be obtained from China ; but as they have no objection to give their instructions to others, or to answer candidly any questions upon the manufacture in China, there will be no difficulty in instructing labourers capable of undertaking the general and particular management of the plant- ations. The facility of transmitting the tea to Cal- cutta is another striking feature, in the advantages which Assam presents ; and although during the water carriage down the Burhampootur, a consign- ment of tea, owing to some faulty arrangement, was damaged, the river affords means of transport, which can be easily rendered available. One of the pe- culiar features of the lower and central divisions consists in tracts of sands stretched along the Burhampootur, called " churs :" their breadth in some places is from eight to ten miles ; they are, throughout the whole of their extent, clothed with dense grass-jungle. These grasses are mostly of a gigantic size, some of them often measuring twenty feet in height ; they consist of four or five species of Saccharum and a species of Arundo. As the genus Saccharum preponderates over the others, and is, perhaps, during the efflorescence, the most conspicuous of the order, the appearance of the churs during the flowering of these plants must be very striking. Mr. Griffith in a valuable paper has given a useful list of the plants collected from Upper Assam, and pointed out such tracts of sand and belts of jungle as he had become ac- quainted with in the neighbourhood of Sadeya, near g 2 84 -TEA; ITS MEDICINAL the confluence of the Dihong with the Burham- pootur. The Tea Committee arrived at the same conclusion with Mr. Bruce that the indigenous tea of the Singpho country was of the green tea species. The circumstance that seemed to weigh principally with Mr. Bruce appears to have been the quality of pre- venting sleep attributed to it. The Committee, how- ever, state, that they were predisposed to do so from the knowledge, that in point of locality and of soil there is a correspondence between those, in which the Singpho plant is produced and the green tea, but not with those in which the black tea-plant is found in China ; at the same time that a different species from that seen in the plains, and corre-, sponding in description with the black species, is averred to grow in the neighbouring hills. The tea, however, was dried in the fashion of black tea, and arrived in Calcutta under the denomination of Paho and Souchong. Of course many were the difficulties to be contended with in the first experiment: the plants from which the leaves were gathered were in their wild and uncultivated state ; and the prepara- tion was managed with great care, under the auspices of Mr. Bruce, over a nicely regulated coal fire, covered with ashes in baskets purposely made, having the form of two inverted cones with their ends truncated, as minutely described and figured by Mr. Bruce in his memoir, a portion of which has been republished in England. The Tea Committee express their obligations to Dr. Wallich, their se- cretary, for the skill and exceeding trouble he took AND MORAL EFFECTS. 85 in the despatch of the consignment. This distin- guished botanist having learnt that it was customary in China to pay great attention, lest any cargoes consisting of articles of strong flavour might be likely to impregnate the delicate and fugacious aroma of the tea, and that they even planked off the spaces allotted for the chests, recommended this caution. The Assam tea was embarked on board the Calcutta, Captain Bentley ; and as ox-hides had for a long time formed part of the cargo of all home- ward bound vessels, measures were taken for the preservation of the tea, and for the introduction of it to the East India Company at home, in a perfect and unimpaired condition. Anxious to obtain for the tea which had been imported into England a proper reception, and at the same time to give as great a number of persons as possible an opportunity of judging its real merits, the East India Company transmitted samples to all parts of the empire, and it was distributed amongst scientific persons, and individuals distinguished either by their station or by the estimation in which they were held. The great majority of those who tested its merits expressed their opinions in writing; and the consequence has been a collec- tion of a mass of favourable evidence, which has been carefully preserved, and will most probably be published amongst the parliamentary documents which will be laid before the House of Commons. At the January tea sales the East India Company submitted for competition the last importation, consisting of eight chests, each containing 320 lbs. g 3 86 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL The novelty of the supply excited great attention amongst the brokers and tea-dealers, who were na- turally anxious to obtain some portion of the tea. A competition of an unusual character was carried on, which raised the price far beyond the most sanguine expectation that had been entertained. Although the tea was known to have been slightly deteriorated by the inattention during its transit, and by the firing it had gone through at Calcutta, it was generally ac- knowledged to be equal to the ordinary Souchong of the market, and it was expected that a price some- what higher would be given for it, as an article of curiosity ; but such was the anxiety manifested to get possession even of a chest, that from 16s. to 34s. was the selling price ; and it afterwards appeared that the whole had become the property of Captain Pidding, the proprietor of the Howqua Mixture, who was detertermined to be the means of spreading wide this novel exportation from a British colony ; he has since distributed small samples, for which the sum of 2s. 6d. was charged. The extraordinary impetus given to this sale has prevented the East India Company from ascertaining the marketable value of the commodity ; but it has been of infinite importance, by drawing public attention to the subject. The Dutch have been anxious to naturalise the tea-plant at Java, and have formed plantations at Bentenzong and at Garvet, where they have been successful, and have proved that Java can produce tea in sufficient quantity, if proper means be taken for its cultivation. Their present plantation has AND MORAL EFFECTS. 87 been reared from seeds obtained from Japan ; but the Committee of Agriculture has sent for some seeds from China, and is using every exertion to improve the quality and quantity of the growth. Mr. Jacob- son, the inspector of the cultivation, has the most sanguine expectations that he will be enabled to import tea, prepared precisely as is done in China, and quite equal in all its qualities. This gentleman has shown the greatest zeal and anxiety to carry into effect this object : at the hazard of his life he obtained from China a number of experienced labourers, who have been employed at the various farms. He has likewise imported some millions of tea-plants, with machines and tools in use in China. The teas sent to Holland have been spoken of as equal in flavour to any that have been im- ported from Canton : their qualities have been va- rious, some black and others green — samples of Souchong and Pekoe amongst them. The different plantations have yielded different qualities, some of them much better than others. Some months since there was a public sale in Amsterdam of 218 chests of Java tea, which brought very high prices. The Pekoe was sold for 500 cents per lb., and Souchong from 265 to 300 cents. The newspaper called the Handelsblad observes, — " It is true that the high prices must be considered rather as a proof of the interest taken in the new production of our colonies, which every body wishes to possess, than as a cri- terion of the value of the tea. We are, however, happy to learn, that competent judges consider this Java tea to be excellent ; and affirm that it not only g 4 88 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL is very nearly equal to that of China, but that many of the sorts sold there were of a very fine kind, such as are very rarely sent from China." The suc- cess that has followed upon the plantations in Java ought to be a stimulus to exertion in India; for Java does not offer such advantageous circum- stances for cultivation as does Assam. The persons who have superintended the introduction into the former country have exerted themselves to import annually the choicest seeds, and to procure culti- vators and factors who had a thorough knowledge of all the points connected with its growth and pre- paration. With industry, zeal, and attention, there is no doubt that the Assam plant will be found su- perior to any that may be imported into any other climate from seed ; for Nature has done that which art in vain attempts to imitate, and man has only to reap the benefits which she has planted for him. * Now stir the fire, and close the shutters fast ; Let fall the curtain, wheel the sofa round ; And while the bubbling and loud-hissing urn Throws up a steamy column, and the cups That cheer, but not inebriate, wait on each, So let us welcome peaceful evening in." Thus sang one of our most admired poets, who was feelingly alive to the charms of social life ; but, alas ! for the domestic happiness of many of our family circles, this meal has lost its character, and many of those innovations which despotic fashion has intro- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 89 duced, have changed one of the most agreeable of our daily enjoyments. It is, indeed, a question amongst the devotees to the tea-table, whether the bubbling urn has been practically an improvement upon our habits ; it has driven from us the old national kettle, once the pride of the fire-side. The urn may fairly be called the offspring of indolence ; it has deprived us, too, of many of those felicitous opportunities of which the gallant forefathers of the present race availed themselves, to render them amiable in the eyes of the fair sex, when presiding over the dis- tribution " Of the Soumblo, the Imperial tea, Names not unknown, and sanative Bohea." * The consequence of this injudicious change is, that one great enjoyment is lost to the tea-drinker — that which consists in having the tea infused in water actually hot, and securing an equal temperature when a fresh supply is required. Such, too, is what those who have preceded us would have called the degeneracy of the period in which we live, that now the tea-making is carried on in the housekeeper's room, or in the kitchen, — - {{ For monstrous novelty, and strange disguise, We sacrifice our tea, till household joys And comforts cease." What can be more delightful than those social days described by Tate, the poet-laureate ? — " When in discourse of Nature's mystic powers And noblest themes we. pass the well-spent hours, 90 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL Whilst all around the Virtues — sacred band, And Jistening Graces, pleased attendants stand. Thus our tea conversations we employ, Where, with delight, instructions we enjoy, Quaffing, without the waste of time or wealth, The sovereign drink of pleasure and of health." The first allusions to the Chiai Catai of the Chi- nese are to be found in the voyages and travels by Ba- tista Ramusio, in some observations upon the books of Marco Polo, in MafFei, and in Giovanni Botero, who in his treatise on the causes of the magnificence and greatness of cities, uses language to this effect : — " The Chinese possess an herb from which they press a delicate juice, which serves them for drink instead of wine ; it also preserves their health, and frees them from all those evils which the immo- derate use of wine produces." After these authors a whole list of writers may be named, who mentioned the subject incidentally. Amongst these, the most remarkable were Linschoten, Texeira, Jarric, Tri- gault, Caspar Bauhin, Bontius, Olearius, Mandeslo, Moriset, Varenius. A catalogue of these authors, and of more modern authorities, has lately been col- lected with great industry and personal attention to the contents of their volumes by a young student of great merit at Utrecht, Adrian Bergsma. Not satisfied with a mere enumeration of authors, he has marked in his little essay all such books as he had consulted, and given the page of the volume in the best edition, in which may be found the subject to which he refers. To Ksempfer, who resided two years in Japan, and who published AND MORAL EFFECTS. 91 in 1726 two volumes, which have been translated into most languages, is to be looked as the best authority on the most important points, more parti- cularly for the best engraving that had been given of the shrub before it had been seen in Europe. In the Acta Hafniensia is to be found the first deli- neation of the tree; but it had been taken from a dried specimen ; and however accurate, it furnishes us with but a faint idea of the living plant. Bontius in 1648 published a narrative of his voyage with Admiral Matelief in the East Indies and China, in the shape of a quarto, distinct from the two volumes of which this account had formed a part ; and it contained the representation of the plant. Plu- kenet published a better engraving ; Breynius one still more perfect : but the first authentic figure is that of Tillseus, drawn from the one introduced by Linnaeus. Besides the # writers who mentioned the subject in travels and in botanical works, there were many eminent men, whose attention was drawn to it by the increasing taste of the people of Holland, of Germany, and of England, for tea. Great curiosity was excited by the learned to obtain specimens of the various parts of the plant. A report existed that there was one in England, the property of an East India captain, who kept it for some years, and refused to part with either cuttings or layers. Its certain introduction, however, was reserved for the greatest genius the world has yet produced ; one who combined industry with sagacity — who was the most attentive observer and recorder of every thing in Nature, and who has done more for man than any 92 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL who have preceded or succeeded him — who has led the way in knowledge, from whom, at this hour, society is reaping the richest treasures. It was in the year 1763 that Linnaeus had the satisfaction of receiving from China a living tea- plant. The delight with which he hailed the stranger, is painted in that interesting diary which he has left us, and which gives us such an insight into the enthusiastic character of that illustrious man. His words are, u At last, Linnaeus received tea alive from China, which he had tried to succeed in for so many years, and which nobody before had been able to procure, as neither the seeds nor the root would bear the voyage. Linnaeus desired that the moment before the ship set sail from China, the seeds should be put in earth, and watered as a hot bed. God blessed him even in this point, that he was the first who had the satisfaction to see tea imported into Europe alive; it was by means of Ekeberg. He looked upon nothing to be of more importance, than to shut the gate through which all the silver went out of Europe." In the volumes, called Amcenitates Academicm, seven of which were published by Linnaeus himself, is the disser- tation by Tillaeus, entitled Potus Thece. It was at the period at which it was published the most complete history of the tea-shrub ; he describes it, gives the synonyms, the mode of preparing the leaves, its sensible qualities, its virtues; but like- wise states, that it is hurtful in some states of body, such as palsy, colic, and ophthalmia: he quotes the authority upon these points of Kalm, AND MORAL EFFECTS. 93 who declared that, until the introduction of tea into North America, carious teeth and debilitated stomachs were unknown. He concludes this essay,, ♦which has been the foundation of most of those that have since appeared, by a view of the circum- stances which might promote its naturalisation in other countries. The death of the plant that was in the possession of Linnaeus was recorded ; but the example of its introduction led to care and attention on the part of others. Accustomed as we now are to see it occasionally in our conservatories, we can judge with difficulty of the rapture which Linnseus felt : nor can we enter into the pleasurable feelings which the amiable Letsom expresses, after alluding to the fact that many strong and good plants, which were shipped at Canton, during their voyage grew sickly, and one only survived the passage to England, he says, a few young tea- plants have been lately introduced into some of the most curious botanic gardens about London, so that it seems probable that this very distinguished vegetable will become a denizen of England, and such of her colonies as may be deemed most fa- vourable to its propagation: his own drawing, which, for the period it was done, is of great ele- gance, was taken from a plant at Sion House, be- longing to the Duke of Northumberland ; it was the first that ever flowered in Europe. We are now become familiar with that which was hailed as a great improvement in our botanic know- ledge ; and at the gardens of Messrs. Loddige will be found, at the proper season, the plants in full 94? TEA; ITS MEDICINAL flower, and growing to a height of six feet. In France attempts have been made to naturalise and to introduce it on a large scale ; and a gardener published a prospectus, which promised to sub- scribers an early supply of what he named Xeno- phonia Thea Sinensis ; but as the art of drying it was unknown, the scheme was quickly abandoned. Nicolaus Tulpius was about the first medical man who wrote professionally upon tea, but they were not original observations ; they were the opi- nions of the most eminent men he had collected to give to the world. But in 1678 appeared the first edition of a book which speedily ran through three large impressions, and had a considerable in- fluence upon the introduction of tea : it was entitled Cornelio JBontekoe, Tractaat van het excellenste Kruyd Thee. Although this work was, from the extravagance of its commendations on tea, severely handled by some of the critics, it was translated into many languages, and quoted as the highest authority. He pronounced tea to be the infallible cause of health, and that if mankind could be induced to drink a sufficient quantity of it, the innumerable ills to which man is subject would not only be diminished, but entirely unknown. He thinks that 200 cups daily would not be too much. He is said to have been rewarded for his judgment by the liberality of the Dutch East India Company. Heydentrik Overcamp, who wrote the life of Bontekoe, states that his inducement to write was to recommend himself to his fellow- citizens, and to defend himself against his col- AND MORAL EFFECTS. 95 leagues, who did not follow his theory or" his prac- tice. Etmiiller recommended tea as a fine stomachic cephalic and antinephritic. Pechlin wrote a dia- logue on tea, which he entitled Theophilus Biba- culus ; and several poets indulged themselves in its praise. Petit wrote a poem; Peter Francius, two Anacreontics ; Heinrich, a Doric Melydrion ; and our poet-laureate, Tate, joined the melodious bards. Whilst it met with so much approbation, there were likewise those who were not equally satisfied with its merits. Boerhaave, Van Swieten, and others, attempted to stem the tide that was setting in its favour, but they have proved them- selves incapable of resisting the general impression ; for no beverage that has ever yet been introduced sits so agreeably on the stomach, so refreshes the system, soothes nervous irritation after fatigue, or forms a more grateful repast. It contributes to the sobriety of a nation ; it imparts all the charms to society which spring from the enjoyment of con- versation, without that excitement which follows upon a fermented drink. Raynal has observed, that it has contributed more to the sobriety of the Chinese than the severest laws, the most eloquent harangues of Christian orators, or the best treatises of morality. The people on the Continent are reverting to the habit of tea-drinking, which they had abandoned during the long war, when they were shut out from the possibility of obtaining it, and therefore sought a substitute in coffee. In Holland, in Germany, and in Russia, tea is much prized ; whilst even in France, where for so many 96 TEA; ITS MEDICINAL years coffee was considered the only good beverage, and was used either strong or mixed with milk, according to the meal that was taken, our favourite shrub is beginning to be as much in use as long established custom has rendered it in England. The introduction of tea-drinking into England has been ascribed to Lord Arlington and Lord Orrery ; and the year 1666, the annus mirabilis of Dry den, has been assigned as the exact date : but in the diary of Mr. Pepys, secretary to the Admiralty, the following is registered, — " I sent for a cup of tea, a Chinese drink, of which I had never drank before." In the diary of Henry, Earl of Claren- don, there is a memorandum, — "Pere Couplet sup- ped with me, and after supper we had tea, which he said was really as good as any he drank in China." The first historical record, however, is an act of Parliament, passed in the year 1660, 12 Carl. II. c. 23. which enacts, that a duty should be laid of eight-pence per gallon on all tea made and sold in coffee-houses ; which were visited twice daily by officers, whose duty it was to ascertain what quantity had been made. In 1668, the Court of Directors, in the despatch to their factory at Bantam in Java, ordered them "to send home by their ships one hundred pounds* weight of the best tey they could get;" and the following year appears the first invoice of tea received by the East India Company, amounting to two canisters of 143^ lbs. The Directors had previously presented to her Majesty, the Queen, who, as Princess Catherine of Portugal, had been in the habit of taking this AND MORAL EFFECTS. 97 beverage, twenty-two pounds of tea. It is to this present on her birthday that Waller has alluded in the beautiful lines that may be so often quoted, both for their merit and for the historical facts recorded by them. There is a curious bill preserved in the British Museum in a volume of pamphlets, col- lected by George III. and presented by George IV. which is well worthy of being reprinted, as the first account of the early use and the estimation in which tea was held. It unfortunately has no date ; but from the price it may be fairly inferred, that it was printed about 1660. There is every reason to believe that Gar way has been gradually changed into Garraway, and that he must have been the predecessor of the present holder of that well- known coffee-house : — " An exact Description of the Growth, Quality, and Virtues of the Leaf Tea, by Thomas Garway, in Exchange Alley, near the Royal Exchange, in Lon- don, Tobacconist, and Seller and Retailer of Tea and Coffee. " Tea is generally brought from China, and groweth there upon little shrubs and bushes, the branches whereof are well garnished with white flowers, that are yellow within, of the bigness and fashion of sweet-brier, but in smell unlike, bearing thin green leaves, about the bigness of Scordium, myrtle, or Sumack ; and is judged to be a kind of Sumack. This plant hath been reported to grow wild only, but doth not; for they plant it in their gardens, about four foot distance, and it groweth about four foot high ; and of the seeds they main- H 98 TEA ; ITS MEDICINAL tain and increase their stock. Of all places in China this plant groweth in greatest plenty in the province of Xemsi, latitude 36°, bordering upon the west of the province of Namking, near the city of Lucheu, the Island de Ladrones, and Japan, and is called ' Cha/ Of this famous leaf there are divers sorts (though all one shape), some much better than others, the upper leaves excelling the other in fine- ness, a property almost in all plants; which leaves they gather every day, and drying them in the shade or in iron pans, over a gentle fire, till the humidity be exhausted, then put close up in leaden pots, pre- serve them for their drink tea, which is used at meals, and upon all visits and entertainments in private families, and in the palaces of grandees : and it is averred by a padre of Macao, native of Japan, that the best tea ought to be gathered but by virgins, who are destined for this work, and such 6 quae non dum menstrua patiuntur : gemmae quae nascuntur in summitate arbuscula servantur Impera- tori, ac praecipuis ejus dynastis : quae autem infra nascuntur ad latera, populo conceduntur.' The said leaf is of such known virtues, that those very nations, so famous for antiquity, knowledge, and wisdom, do frequently sell it among themselves for twice its weight in silver ; and the high estimation of the drink made therewith hath occasioned an inquiry into the nature thereof amongst the most intelligent persons of all nations that have tra- velled in those parts, who, after exact tryal and experience by all wayes imaginable, have com- mended it to the use of their several countries, and AND MORAL EFFECTS, 99 for its virtues and operations, particularly as fol- loweth ; viz. —