...» <- ^^ ^^^ V ^l* V &' .^^"- ~c> . ■* y\:-: '^- o'^ .0' c a V .V' ^: ITAa %. Ao^ )^ .^' \r^^ c;y :t V '', ^^0^ "^^^HE^FLE TO GO GEORGE R. HARDIE CANTON. NEW YORK 1909 tndian Girl Onoes ^K- ■^Li^,^^^ The pleasures of paddling in the woods or mountains are increased a thousandfold when your canoe is an "INDIAN GIRL.' Perfectly finished in most attractive colors, " INDIAN GIRL" Canoes harmonize delightfully with the surroundings. Their com- fort, safety, and lightness make canoeing the splendid sport it can be. See that your canoe is an "INDIAN GIRL" Visitors to the Adirondacks can obtain these canoes at mo^ hotel liveries. The choice of an "INDIAN GIRL" will pay a big re- turn in an extra enjoyment of your daily paddles. Make sure to ask for one. You'll find our new "INDIAN GIRL" Booklet exceptionally interesting. Write for a copy to-day, IT'S FREE. // you're inlcrcsieJ in rcwtcats, sen J for cur Igcg Catalogue. You'll need it before you buy a beat. J. H. RUSHTON, INC. - Water St., CANTON, N.Y. /« tvrititii; to ad-!'erliser<. please mention this lwol< WHERE TO GO AND ON LAKE GEORGE AND LAKE CHAMPLAIN ^ Y<: ^ Copyright. 1908, By GEORGE R. HARDIE LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two CoDies Received APR 28 1809 CLASS U. XXc. No, COPY B. * PREFACE THIS book is designed, as its name implies, to give informa- tion to those who desire suggestions as to where to go in the Adirondacks and on Lake George and Lake Champlain. It also deals with certain features of the region attention to which seems likely to add to the pleasure of a sojourn there. The Publisher has tried to make discriminating state- ments and to give real information. He believes that the claims made herein by hotels or on their behalf are justified by facts and that readers may confidently expect to find what is promised. He will, on his part, be grateful if readers will mention this book in writing to advertisers. Appreciative recognition is here made of the work of the Reverend W. H. H. Murray, Mr. E. R. Wallace, Mr. S. R. Stoddard, and other pioneers in the publication of books about the Adirondacks. The chapters in this book on the Animals of the Adirondacks, the Birds of the Adirondacks, the Flora of the Adirondacks, and the Keene Valley Region were written by Mrs. Hardie. To the New York State Museum and the Forest, Fish and Game Commission is due acknowledgment of in- debtedness for information contained in their publications, and to the former for courteous permission to reproduce certain illustra- tions which have appeared in their annual reports. Of valuable assistance on account of which the Publisher has been placed under obligation to many others he would ex- press so far as possible his grateful appreciation. THE ADIRONDACKS HE entire Adirondack region embraces about 3,500,000 acres. On the south and west are the less conspicuous heights and some of the be^ known lakes with the resorts that have grown up around them. On the ea^ are the highest peaks and mo^ picturesque scenery. The highest mountain in the group is Marcy, with an elevation of 5,344 feet. By nearly every mountain is a lake. In fadt, within a short di^ance from almost any point a sheet of water may be found. If the smaller ponds be reckoned, there are perhaps upwards of two thousand lakes and ponds. The Adirondack region is one of great importance in many respects. Its forests are fundamentally necessary to the maintenance of the rivers which have their source in this territory. Its timber has long contributed to the main- tenance of important industries and still does so. Enlightened self interest, as well as public spirit, has for some time prompted more conservative methods in dealing with this important asset than were formerly in vogue. The Adirondack Preserve owned by the State included January 1 , 1 908, a total of 1,438,999 acres. To most persons the Adirondacks are best known as providing a place for recreation or benefit to health. Owing to the stimulating quality of the air consequent upon the high altitude, a sense of invigoration comes to the visitor from the time of his arrival from a lower level. Although one is not likely to want to rest while there, he may count on coming out refreshed after even a short stay. The purity of the air, together with the curative properties which it derives from the evergreen forests, makes this region a place mo^ advantageous to persons afflicted with pulmonary troubles. Hunting and fishing furnish recreation for sportsmen. The wonder- ful scenery may be enjoyed everywhere and by all. It is estimated that two hundred thousand persons or more visit the region each summer. Figures compiled in 1903 showed over ten million dollars then invested in hotels, camps, and other buildings. This wide region and these extensive provisions for the reception of visitors afford opportunities of enjoyment sufficiently varied to satisfy the mo^ diverse inclinations. There are places where social gaiety with ample arrangements for comfort and entertainment are found, and there are other places of every style between these and the open camp where one so inclined may be as a rule miles from sound of any human voice beside his own. [5] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS GEOLOGY OF THE ADIRONDACKS HE formation of the earth's crust has been a gradual process; some parts of it have only recently taken on their present form, other parts went through the formative period in the remote past. In two senses the Adirondacks are old moun- tains. The rocks which form the greater part of the region are in substance among the oldest known. Agam, as a re- sult of eroding forces at work through a long period, the Adirondack Moun- tains have been worn down to a smoothly rounded outline quite unlike the jagged peaks of such mountains as the Matterhorn in Switzerland, which are of more recent origin and have not been subject for so long a time to leveling tendencies. A large part of the rocks of the Adirondack region are, in spite of their great age, of sedimentary origin. In seme far distant aeon of which our imagination can discern but faintest glimpses through the obscurity that hides the early stages of creation, apparently the great primeval ocean dashed upon the shores of a rocky island in what is now the Adirondack region. In course of time this rocky elevation was gradually battered and worn away by the disintegrating forces of the waves and the elements, and the detritus washed out to sea was scattered on the floor of the ocean. This in turn became sedimentary rock of the Grenville series. Later it was sub- jected to enormous pressure by great thickness of rock subsequently de- posited and its original structure much changed. Along with Igneous rock almost certainly of later origin extruded from beneath, is found other igneous rock which may represent the basic forma- tion upon which the metamorphic rock described above was deposited. That type of rock is found widely throughout Essex and southern Franklin counties. The two classes of Precambrian rock here described, which may be assumed to underlie the whole region and which form the mass of the mountains in their present form, are the oldest rocks found here and are also representative of the oldest rocks in the crust of the earth. Substantially all the rocks in the main region of the Adirondacks, excepting comparatively recent surface deposit, belong to that oldest of geologic periods, probably even to an early stage in the period, and furthermore it is estimated that the period as a whole covers possibly one-half the entire extent of time em- braced in the geologic history of the earth. An upheaval next raised these Precambrian rocks into ridges above the level of the adjacent sea, where they were again subjected to erosion [6] -»•" ,.-i^\-^' r^ '*'*-^=:s*— **■ ►f"' r «^ ,JlA^'!*"_ ^ -- fe^ Quarry face showing successive limestone formations By peri)iissio7t oj ilie New York State Micseiim WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS by which the surface was greatly lowered. A period of depression of this part of the earth's crust marks the beginning of the Palaeozoic Age. This movement was most pronounced on the northeast and permitted the sea to encroach upon the land for some distance on that side. Over the area thus covered by the water the Potsdam sandstone was deposited. De- pression extended farther toward the southwest, and the Beekmantown and Chazy limestones were successively laid down. During a later part of this movement the sea entered on the south and west, again forming an Ad- irondack island or perhaps an unbroken sea under which the highest peaks were submerged, and the Lowville, the Black River and the Trenton lime- stones, and the Utica shale were formed. This series of rocks belongs to the Lower Silurian. (See illustration on page 7.) Whether the latter mem- bers of the group once covered the whole region cannot now be said, ow- ing to the extent to which erosion has taken place since these formations were elevated above sea level. None of the Lower Silurian rocks are found m the Adirondack region, except in isolated patches, and the as- sumed previous wide distribution is inferred from evidences on the outskirts of the region. During Mesozoic and Cenozoic time, successive changes of elevation accompanied by violent fracftures took place, and the rock on one side of a fradture dropped below that on the other, sometimes to the depth of several hundred feet. These faults are especially common in the eastern part of the Adirondacks, and the drop is usually toward the ea^. Also on the ea^ there are numerous single peaks, "monadnocks," which resided erosion and remained at a greater elevation than the heights around them. In the southwe^ the mountains are now mo^ly long, comparatively level ridges,— their trend prevailingly northea^ and southwe^. In the northea^ are iso- lated peaks or broken ridges of varying degrees of elevation. The la^ great modifying activity in the hi^ory of the region occurred in the Glacial Epoch. Before the beginning of that division of time the mountains had attained sub^antially their present form. The broad outlines of the main features were then as they are now. The Glacial Epoch appears to have been an era characterized by radical changes in climatic conditions, which brought down from the region of Labrador a great ice sheet which, moving to the southwest, overspread the whole northeastern part of the United States. This glacier caused erosion producing, among other striking results, great amphitheaters scooped out in mountain sides and adjacent basins in the level, often occupied by lakes. (See page 1 4.) But the most noticeable and widespread results of glacial action are of another sort. The ice sheet imbedded in its mass and carried along in its [8J vTiti West Chazy, Cobblestone Hill, wesi v. a glacial moraine /'r t',r"iission of the Se-w York State Museum WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS course debris which it picked up on the way. When changed conditions caused the southern margin of the ice sheet to recede, the melting ice re- leased the foreign material which it held. Boulders, — often much rubbed and worn — gravel, and sand were thus scattered over the region which the glacier had traversed. At times the southern margin remained stationary for a considerable period, and in such places extensive ridges known as moraines would accumulate. A striking example is Cobblestone Hill, near West Chazy, in Clinton County. (See page 9.) Watercourses naturally follow the lines of depression. The period of glacial drift modified previous channels. Some were made deeper, others were blocked or turned aside by deposit of sediment. In that way new lakes were formed, and old lakes were forced to find new outlets. Rivers and lakes have been gradually adjusting themselves to new conditions and are still doing so. The principal results of present river action are the wear- ing away of shore lines and the gradual filling up of lake and river bottoms with sediment carried from other places. The decay of organic matter often accelerates action of the last named kind. The map on the opposite page shows the principal water courses of the Adirondack? and the general direction of the drainage in the various sections. The following key gives the significance of the letters and figures on the map: Lakes: I Raquette; 2 Long; 3 Tupper; 4 Ne-ha-sa-ne; 5 Cran- berry; 6 Upper Saranac; 7 St. Regis; 8 Rainbow; 9 Placid; I Schroon. Places: a Malone; h Lake Clear Jet.; C Saranac Lake; d Lake Placid; e Saranac Inn; / Tupper Lake; g Axton; h Keene Valley. Mountains: m Whiteface; n Marcy (Tahawus); O Seward; p Boot Bay; q St. Regis. THE INDIANS IN THE ADIRONDACKS HE Indians whose settlements were in New York State were of the Iroquois nation. The original home of this people wa: apparently in Canada, where they were subject to an Algonquin race, the Adirondacks. So far as we know the last named tribe never dwelt, at any rate continuously, as might be inferred, in the region to which also their name has been given. The word is said to have signified "eaters of trees" and was apparently given in derision to this race, once proud, but later humiliated by its former subjects. At some time previous to the appearance of white men in New York State, [10] Os^ RivF.RS OF The Adikonuacks By permission ih of the Neiv York State Museum WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS the Iroquois, having been harshly treated by the Algonquins, migrated from Canada and, according to tradition, entered the region south of Lake Ontario and settled in the neighborhood around the Oswego River. These immigrants increased in numbers and in course of time divided into five tribes, the Senecas, Cayugas, Onondagas, Oneidas, and Mohawks, whose settlements lay from west to east in the order named. After a con- siderable period (it may be about a hundred years before the appearance of white men in that region ), these tribes formed for mutual assistance a con- federacy which they called Ho-de-no-sau-ne, the Long House. This coali- tion became so powerful in war that it rapidly extended its sway over the Algonquin tribes to the Mississippi on the west and the Carolinas on the south. It in its turn almost brought to destruction its ancient oppressors, the Adirondacks. The numbers of the Iroquois, however, were never large. Probably the whole nation when most numerous (about the middle of the seventeenth century) did not number over 25,000. They were regularly enemies of the French and friends of the Dutch and English. The Adirondack region was in the territory of the Mohawks. Their district was bounded on the east by Lake Champlain, from the southern end of which ran a boundary line that crossed the Mohawk River just west of Schenectady and reached to the Susquehanna. Their western boundary ran north across the Mohawk near the site of Herkimer and, following the present line of the Mohawk and Malone Division of the New York Central Railroad about as far as Fulton Chain, from there ran approximately due north to the St. Lawrence River. The Indians preferred for settlements level, fertile land that was easy of cultivation. The Adirondack region was for them only a hunting ground or place of warfare against their northern Algonquin foes. They called it Cough-sa-ra-ge, the dismal wilderness. When they had occasion to sojourn there, their camps were ordinarily placed on the banks of shallow rivers or lakes. But at such temporary dwelling places there are now but scant evidences of their presence. In a paper on the Aboriginal Occupa- tion of New York in one of the New York State Museum Reports, Mr. Herbert M. Lloyd, a high authority on this subject, is quoted as saying, "I have examined the shores of a number of Adirondack lakes with only negative results, excepting in the cases of Lakes Piseco, Pleasant, Sacan- daga (usually called Round Lake) and Indian Lake." Relics have been found, however, in various places, notably in Essex county. Survivors of the St. Regis tribe, a mixed race, live on a reservation at St. Regis, in Franklin County. They were taken into the Iroquois con- federacy not long ago, to supply the place of the Mohawks. [12] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS ANIMALS OF THE ADIRONDACKS HE Important large animals that now exist, or have existed in historic times, in the Adirondacks are the red deer, black bear, elk, and moose. The red deer and the black bear are the only large animals remaining in considerable numbers. Since the recent passing of stricter game laws, the red deer have been on the increase. They are, in fact, so numerous no means an uncommon sight. Near almost any of the re- sorts there are places where one can watch for them to come to drink or feed on lily pads in the late afternoon. They are more likely to be seen in early summer, for later they seek more retired drinking places. I have come upon four at one time standing in the water of the upper Grass River. Near Saranac Inn there is a large private deer park where it gives almost as much delight to see the pretty creatures as it does to meet them wild in the forest. It is an ideal place for them, a spruce forest rising out of a swamp through which flow brooks of clear water. Many dollars have been paid in bounties for the extermination of the black bear, but considerable numbers still exist. The state paid the last bounty for bears in 1894, and it was estimated in 1901 that there were then over one thousand of them in the Adirondacks. There is not the slightest need of fear on their account, for they flee the approach of man and only under the most pressing necessity will they show fight. Besides, they are rarely met with near inhabited places. In fact, there is a growing senti- ment in favor of protecting them, as furnishing a desirable and characteristic zest to the life of the wilderness. The damage which they cause is for the most part limited to minor depredations on the farms of the settlements. The moose (Alces americaniis) is strictly speaking an elk, though never so called in this country. The animal which we call elk, or wapiti (Cervus canadensis), belongs to the deer family. It is much to be re- gretted that the elk and moose, which formerly were numerous in the Ad- irondacks became exterminated. The State is now making praise-worthy and costly attempts to reintroduce them. If the effort is successful, the charm of the region will be much enhanced by the presence of the majestic elk and the mighty moose. The elk makes a superb picture as he stands on a jutting crag with the sky for background or in a glade which breaks the forest at the shore of some secluded lake. The elk was exterminated about the beginning of the nineteenth century, but the moose existed until the early sixties. [13] 'J i-'^' WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The undertaking to restock the Adirondacks with these animals will be attended by difficulties, but there is apparently good reason to expect suc- cess, because they were once natives of this part of the country. To the owners of private parks, as well as to the State, thanks are due for public service in this movement. It is likely that it is in the private parks, for in- stance that of Mr. Edward H. Litchfield, that these animals will first be successfully established. The first elk to be released were the twenty-two selected by Mr. William C. Whitney from his herd near Lenox, Massa- chusetts, and given to New York State. These animals were liberated at Forked Lake Carry, near the boundary of the Whitney preserve, in June, 1901. In I 906 twenty-six elk were donated to the State by Mr. Austin Corbin, from his forest park in New Hampshire. Seventeen of these were re- leased on State land in Essex county, four were released in Warren county, and the remaining five on Tongue Mountain, on the west shore of Lake George. The elk have been increasing satisfactorily and are beginning to range over wide areas. Their estimated number at the beginning of 1 908 was four hundred twenty-five. It was due to the efforts of an association of sportsmen in New York, organized chiefly by Mr. H. V. Radford, editor of Woods and Waters, that the Price bill was introduced into the Legislature and became a law providing an appropriation of $5000 for the purchase of moose and an appropriation for their protection as well. The price of a moose varies from $100 to $150. The elk is more difficult to establish than the moose, for he is not fond of feeding upon the leaves and lily pads, as are the deer and moose, but prefers succulent grasses. However, in spite of this fact, the elk now outnumber the moose, for some of the mcose first introduced were killed on the start, and as yet the reintroduction of the moose has not been carried out on so large a scale as that of the elk. The beaver, while comparatively small, is extremely interesting from his habits of cutting trees and building dams and is of great value as a fur bear- ing animal. For a long time it was popularly supposed to be extinct m New York State, but Mr. Radford maintains that there has been no time when there have not been at least a few stragglers left. He estimates that at the coming of the white man in 1 609 there were a million beavers in Northern New York. Then the Indians were lured by the white fur- traders and began to slaughter the beaver recklessly. When the fashion of the beaver hat was established m 1 663, the destruction of the beaver in- creased and continued to be excessive down to the beginning of the nine- teenth century. Early in that century the discovery of a fur called nutria, which made a good imitation of beaver, and somewhat later the substitution of the silk hat for the beaver hat, served to decrease the enormous slaughter [15] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS of these rodents. However, the number of beaver continued to decrease until in 1850 Mr. Radford estimates there were only seventy-five in the Adirondacks, and, as he thinks, in the winter of 1 894-95 the original stock of beavers in this region had reached its lowest number, not more than five or ten remaining. These had their home near Saranac Inn. The beaver would at that time have surely become extinct had net the State taken vigorous measures to save the survivors. Gratitude is due Mr. Radford for a more effective law towards their preservation as well as for energetic efforts to restore them. The beaver is so prolific that the numbers began to in- crease even before others were introduced. But soon private individuals, Mr. Edward H. Litchfield, Mr. Timothy L. Woodruff, and Mr. George A. Stevens, began to add fresh stock. The beavers have traveled and widely extended their range, and their number at the beginning of 1 908 was estimated to be about one hundred. If the people will co-operate with the State, the beaver ought soon to become once more abundant. An extremely common animal in the Adirondacks is the porcupine. If anything eatable is left outside of a camp at night, a porcupine is sure to prowl around and devour it. Sometimes in the daytime he is to be seen asleep clinging to the limb of a tree. He is valuable neither from an economical standpoint nor as a picturesque feature. The red squirrels, however, which frequent the region in large numbers are attractive as they scurry from tree to tree or chatter from their perch overhead. The gray squirrels though present are not so numerous. Mink, otter, and muskrat are valuable for their fur and are found in the lakes and streams. Red foxes, raccoons, hares, rabbits, martens, and weasels are found by the hunters, but they usually keep away from the common roads and trails. In the wildest part of the Adirondacks there is still found an occasional wolf to excite the hunter, but they are practically exterminated, and we cannot wish them back. It is reported that traces of wolves were seen in the fall of I 908. There was a time when these prowlers were so numerous as to be dreaded, but since the State offered a bounty for them in 1871, they have fast disappeared. The wolf did not wait to go gradually, but for some mysterious reason became suddenly scarce at just the time when the bounty was offered, and few were killed. The lynx or wildcat and panther, too, are believed to be practically, if not quite, extinct. If there are a few left, they are found only in most secluded fastnesses. [16] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS BIRDS OF THE ADIRONDACKS LTHOUGH it is true, as is frequently stated, that one should not look for birds in the deep forest, do not be deceived into thinking that you will find no birds in the Adirondacks. Mo^ of the Adirondack resorts which the ordinary observer visits have been open long enough and have cultivated spaces suffi- cient to attract the birds, and the bird enthusiast may add to the other delights of the woods the pleasure of watching the birds. I think it likely that, while the number of species of birds represented in the Adi- rondacks is great, the number in each species may be smaller than in some of their more favored haunts. However, there are certain birds that even seem especially characteristic of this region. Who has ever been in the Adirondacks without seeing the juncos, nuthatches, and chickadees? Even upon the sides and tops of high moun- tains, where animal life is so noticeably meager, one is almost sure to see the chickadees. Other birds that 1 have seen on mountain tops are the chimney swifts, red-eyed and yellow-throated vireos, white-throated spar- rows, and some woodpeckers; and as I have sat on the barren rocks of one of the rounded peaks, a hawk has swooped about my head, apparently un- mindful of my presence. It is, m fact, common on mountain tops to see hawks circling in the air, particularly in August. I have noticed with Burroughs that August is the month of hawks. The song of the thrushes is naturally connected with the charm of secluded spots. Deep woods are the natural haunt of these birds, and their liquid notes are particularly beautiful m the silent forests. Other characteristic birds of the wilderness are the blue jay, kingfisher, catbird, cedar waxwing, American osprey, and great blue heron. One does not need to go to the cultivated places to see these birds. Along the Raquette River, where there are no permanent camps for miles, I have seen the blue jays and heard their harsh cries. By secluded creeks and around the shores of lakes and ponds, the kingfisher sits on a bare, stiff, over-hang- ing branch and watches for prey. If he doesn't see any, he gives his peculiar rattle and darts on to another branch. Then, while you watch him, perhaps, as he crosses a bay, he will hold himself by a quivering motion sus- pended in mid air and suddenly dive head first with a great splash and come up with a fish. From the denser foliage of alders along these same water- ways frequently comes the whine of the catbird. Sometimes this bird is almost indiscernible to the eye, when the ear can trace it to the bush m [17] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS which it is hiding. Although of an unobtrusive gray color, it is a beautiful bird. It is also no mean songster, having a very pleasing vs^arble of some length. The catbird makes many successful attempts to mimic other birds and for this habit is known as the northern mockingbird. The cedar wax- wing is also a beautiful bird of sober coloring. The waxwings often go m flocks and settle together in a single tree, where they will sit motionless for a NOON MAKK, KF.KNE VALLEY PJwiograph by Chester D. J\ loses &-' Coiiipatiy, Lake Placid considerable time and almost silent. They have no song, but make a peculiar fine, msect-like sound. The American osprey and great blue heron are comparatively large, so that when present they add to the picturesqueness of a view. The osprey is the largest of the hawks, a magnificent bird when mounted, showing a spread of wings five feet from tip to tip. It is usually observed floating from a considerable height in smaller and smaller descending circles above the water, until at last it suddenly strikes for a fish with a direct plunge. Sometimes it floats about in circles, apparently look- ing for prey, and not finding it at first, starts a new series of circles. It is fascinating to watch the movements of this hawk. The great blue heron is fully as picturesque as the osprey and is, I think, found in greater numbers in this region. Often more than one are seen at a time. The blue herons are [18] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS more gray than blue in color; however, m certain lights they give a blue effect. Whenever boating along shallow, plant-grown water, one is almo^ sure to see now and then a heron rising from the border growth of reeds or flying above and oddly stretching out its long legs behind. The woodpeckers are particularly noticeable from their size and num- bers and from the noise they make m hammering their bills againS the trees. The large black pileated woodpecker with red crest can be seen here, though it does not frequent the more open parts of New York State. The cuckoos too, which in many places are rare, are also seen here. The white- throated sparrow, mentioned above, is one of the most common birds of the great woods. Anyone can easily learn to know it by its song, which is always the same, unless somewhat shortened. It is often spoken of as the Peabody bird, the latter part of its song being likened to the words. Pea- body, Peabody, Peabody. The sparrow family is represented in this region by several other species. And one will not fail to find here the brown creeper, the tip-up or spotted sandpiper, the little kinglets and wrens, the tiny humming-bird, the brilliant scarlet tanager and beautiful rose-breasted grosbeak, several flycatchers, swallows, blackbirds, finches, and many species of warblers. Even in August I have seen six varieties of warblers within sight at the same time. One of the most common and most attractive of these is the redstart. The sportsman will take more interest in the wild ducks, snipe, wood- cock, and particularly in the ruffed grouse, or partridge, as it is locally called. Of the birds with peculiar cries, one of the most interesting is the loon, whose note is not unlike the sound of mocking laughter. It is a beautiful water bird and has the habit of diving to come up again at an unexpected place a considerable distance away. The weird call of the whip-poor-will, the boom of the nighthawk, and the hoot of the owl often break the quiet of the early hours of darkness. [19] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS FLORA OF THE ADIRONDACKS HEN you go to the Adirondacks, take with you not only your spy- glass for the birds, but your microscope and botany as well, for on nearly every walk you are likely to come across some flower that you do not know. A list of the plants that grow in the single township of North Elba, published by the State Museum, includes 1223 species representing I 18 families, and even so the list professes to be incomplete. A large part of these are, of course, rare and comparatively unfamiliar. One of the most prized flowers that blossom in the early spring is the trailing arbutus, which grows in great patches under the pines. It often happens that a trail runs just below a ridge covered with the arbutus, fresh and fragrant, m a softly rolling bed made by the crowded mass of graceful leaves. Like the arbutus many other wood vines afford a pretty sight, even when not in flower. The partridge-berry vine, creeping snowberry, and dalibarda are attractive, though common. In June one of the beautiful things to see is a bank of bunch-berry blossoms. They are so many and crowded that the white whorls fairly make a white carpet. One can see quantities of these from the car window along the Mohawk and Malone Division. Besides all the small low flowers of spring, there are many beautiful flowering shrubs and bushes. Of these the mountain ash, the sumac, the hawthorns, wild plums and cherries, and the different varieties of dogwoods deserve particular notice. When the season has advanced somewhat the eye is delighted by the beautiful masses of pink sheep laurel, which is particularly characteristic of the region. It is found on the low shores of lakes and streams, and even on the tops of mountains, but is most striking in great level stretches in company with the blueberry bushes and their white flowers. Usually in these bogs are also different varieties of spiraea, some bearing white and some pink flowers. These plants all grow close together, making a wide expanse of bloom in June and July. At the base of these plants the ground is covered with sphagnum moss. In the spring these swamps are very wet, but some- times in the summer, when it looks as though you would sink into the water should you venture to enter, if you do step in, you will find that the moss is perfectly dry and settles down under your feet into a soft, velvety carpet. The closed blue gentian and low bush cranberry are also found in these bogs, but their beauty is greater in August and September, when the gentian blossoms and the berries of the cranberry begin to show red in their setting [20] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS of delicate green. The foliage of the cranberry is beautiful at any time, the leaves being small and the effect of the whole delicate and fernlike. Areas of these swamps lie around the shores of the small, boggy ponds that are so numerous In the Adirondacks. To one acquainted with the woods and a lover of all that it contains, it is a delight to come upon one of these places and to look for the things he knows that he will find. When he comes to one of these ponds he expects to see all the plants al- ready mentioned as typical of the laurel tracts and, if early enough in the season, the delicate, fragrant blossoms of some of the orchids. Here, too, he will almost surely see the curious pitcher-plants and, in company with them, another flycatcher, the sundew. The yellow loosestrife, St. Johns-wort, and blue monkey-flowers are also often present. Out on the surface of the water, from the middle of July till the end of summer, are likely to he the beautiful white pond-lilies and their vulgar, yellow cousins. There are ponds that are just one expanse of lily blossoms so crowded that the edges of the green pads roll up and show the dark red of their under surface. The white pond-lilies of the Adirondacks, though smaller than the large coarse lilies of the St. Lawrence River or other waters away from the woods, are much more beautiful. The olive green of the four sepals enriched with a tinge of pink, and the lines of pink painted on the outer white petals, together with their delicate size and perfume, make them exquisite. The insignificant water-arum and the blue flowers of the pickerel-weed are very plain, and yet even these add an agree- able touch. Like the sphagnum laurel tracts and boggy ponds there are other places in the Adirondacks that have ]ust as characteristic features. There are mountain sides where grows the oxalis that covers the ground in early sum- mer with its delicate pinkish blossoms. There are the mountain rivulets rushing down their precipitous course, where one expects to find green, mossy stones and the evergreen and spinulose shield-ferns. And on a mountain side there is likely to be a sheer cliff or a rocky crevice where one may look for polypodium and the rarer rusty woodsia and brittle ferns. There are the burned tracks where poplars, pin-cherries, raspberry bushes, golden-rod, everlasting, and flreweed always appear in time. The flreweed in a single stalk is not at all a handsome flower, but when growing in masses, as it sometimes does, its magenta color is striking. The luxuriant growth in places on the banks of the rivers is one of the particularly beautiful sights in the Adirondacks. It is delightful to canoe in July on the upper waters of the Grass, where on either bank is a dense border of alders, royal and sensitive ferns, button-bush, and a most fragrant [21] -1' a yl^>-. .^^ WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS species of wild rose, with a crowded profusion of creamy elder-flowers, white thoroughwort, pink queen-of-the-meadow, and the tall, graceful, feathery blossoms of meadow-rue. Here and there a cardinal-flower is be- ginning to open, and over all clambers the wild clematis with its delicate white flowers, long streamers of it trailing in the water. Above this lower shrubbery bend the soft maples and the black ash harmonizing with the heavy forest beyond. If one does not know and see the trees, plants, and flowers of the woods, he loses much joy to be had in the Adirondacks. To one who does know them, it is such delight that he feels like exclaiming at every new discovery. On a tramp, every little while, he calls, "Oh, here is the princess pine!" or, "Oh, see the Indian pipes!" If he sees the shining green leaves of the goldthread, he must stoop down until he has uncovered the gold threads of the underground stem, and when he finds the little umbrella of the Indian-cucumber with its stem covered with cottony down, he must dig up the white, fleshy root. Perhaps he takes particular delight in knowing the many medicinal plants and always notices the sarsaparilla and ladies-slipper. Perhaps he finds a plant that he doesn't know. This he must carry home to his microscope and botany. There is some new beauty for every season of the year. The flowers are not all gone in August. Then one may see in the ditches by a wood's road the white snakes-head, the orange flowers of the snapdragon or jewelweed, purple astors, beautifully contrasting with the orange butterflies which hover over them, and, making an exquisite background to all these, the lace like lady-fern, maiden *s-hair-fern, and the tall fronds of the cinnamon- fern. In late summer and early autumn many of the plants bear seed-pods that are fully as beautiful as the flowers from which they developed. For example, notice the spike of shining scarlet berries on the ]ack-in-the-pulpit, the deeper red seed-pod of the trilllum, the white baneberries, the blue berries of Clintonia borealis, the red berries of the mountain-ash and shad, and the orange clusters of the bursting bittersweet berries. When winter comes the Adirondacks have not lost their charm. The tracks of the wild animals in the snow show the presence of denizens of the forest in places where they do not venture in the summer. The evergreens are even more beautiful against the white background or when their branches sparkle with ice; and if the snow is not too deep, one can find the evergreen fern, the Christmas fern, the several varieties of ground-pine, and the partridge- berry vine which make as beautiful decorations as the flowers. Of the trees found in the sphagnum tracts, one of the most character- [23] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS istic is the tamarack. One is likely to see many of these, some dead or dying, all covered with light, greenish gray moss that hangs from their trunks almost like hair. White cedar also occurs in the tamarack tracts, which are on the lowest, most poorly drained land, immediately along the streams. Cedar reaches a better development in better drained swamps, where it often reaches as much as fifty feet in height. There are dark and solemn hemlock groves that occur in spots in the midst of the forest. It seems that the soil there furnishes just the substance that the hemlocks need, for there will not be another kind of tree in the group, though other trees grow close up without breaking the hemlock ranks. I recall a good example on Stony Creek mountain. Although sometimes occurring in the midst of other trees, the hemlock has a marked tendency thus to grow in groups. In primeval forest there are also pure hardwood ridges, and slopes of pine or spruce, as well as hemlock in pure stand. On the other hand, there are places where many different kmds of trees are found side by side. On the spruce land, which is well drained land and embraces the rising ground and lower mountain slopes, red spruce is the predominant species, in some sections making about fifty per cent, of the mixture. The principal other species on this type of land are the yellow birch, balsam, beech, hard maple, and white pine. It is in this part of the forest that the hardwoods reach their highest percentage in the mixture. Balsam, though found in mixture throughout the forest, is more common on the lower portions of the spruce lands. The hemlock grows best on the lower slopes of the principal moun- tains. The white pine seeks the sandy banks of lake shores, where it stands pure or mixed with red or Norway pine and white paper birch. This latter combination is very beautiful. Loon Lake and Upper Saranac Lake have some particularly beautiful stretches of pines and white birches along their shores. Where one sees these trees one may look for wintergreens. On the summits and steep upper slopes, spruce still predominates, with a mixture of birch, hard maple, beech, and balsam The trees here do not reach their best development, owing to poor soil and exposure. In the whole forest the principal species of trees in the order in which they occur are : red spruce, yellow birch, balsam, hemlock, beech, hard maple, and white pine. With these grow the arbor-vitae, black spruce, tamarack, red or Norway pine, soft maple, white and black ash, black cherry, pin-cherry, hop hornbeam, aspens, basswood, and elms. Elm, black cherry, and basswood are found only in small numbers. The underbrush is mainly witch hobble, striped maple or moosewood, mountain or spotted maple, and flowering dogwood. [24] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS NEW YORK CENTRAL LINES Mohawk and Malone Division THE ordinary means of access to the Adirondacks on the west is that part of the New York Central Railroad which runs horn Utica to Montreal and which, north of Remsen, is known as the Mohawk and Ma- lone Division. As one goes northward from Utica on this road the flr^ place reached that is noteworthy on account of its natural beauties, though it is not, properly speaking, in the Adirondacks, is Xrenton. The West Canada Creek, while flowing here through a series of rapids and falls, in a distance of three miles descends as many thousand feet. From the banks of the stream at various points, rise sheer limestone walls, their layers worn and broken, the whole producing an effedt that is picturesque and in no small degree impressive. Forestport is the station from which to go by team to Fore^ Lodge (Address, Honnedaga) on Honnedaga Lake, the property of the Adirondack League Club. In addition to the above named lake, the pre- serve of this club (which contains some 80,000 acres) also includes Bisby Lake, on which is Bisby Lodge (Address, Bisby, via McKeever; railroad station, McKeever), and Little Moose Lake, on which is Mountain Lodge (Address and railroad station. Old Forge). New York address, 45 Broad- way. President, Mr. William P. Smith. FULTON CHAIN station is the point of departure for the Fulton Chain of Lakes, Raquette Lake, and Blue Mountain Lake. The trip to the head of Fourth Lake may be made either by the Raquette Lake Rail- way, via Clearwater to Eagle Bay, or by steamer from Old Forge. From Fulton Chain to Old Forge is a distance of two miles, which may be traveled either by the Fulton Chain Railway or by stage to the Old Forge House. Fare, twenty-five cents, either way. Old Forge, a small village with a steamboat landing on the outlet of First Lake, is a convenient center for either boating or driving. One may travel by water without a carry a dozen miles in either direction, down the Moose River or up to the head of Fourth Lake. Owing to its accessibility and the ease with which trips to various points may be taken, this place is frequented by those who wish to go where only a moderate degree of exertion is necessary. There is a State Fish Hatchery here. The Old Forge House stands on rising ground a short distance from the steamboat landing. Post-Office, Old Forge. In I 798 John Brown, at one time Governor of Rhode Island, purchased a tract of land in the Adirondacks embracing over 200,000 acres, still known as the John Brown Tradl, at a cost of some thirty-eight cents an acre. In 1812 his son-in-law, Charles F. Herres- hoff. built on this land a manor house and brought to the place a number of families to [26] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS settle on the vast estate which he hoped to bring under cultivation. His efforts at agri- culture proving unsuccessful, he began elaborate operations in mining and smelting iron ore. This undertaking, which was a failure also, ended with the suicide of Herreshoff. The "Old Forge" has given its name to the scene of the ill-starred enterprise. The dam made at that early day still exists, enlarged, causing the water to spread some distance beyond its original banks. The Fulton Chain of Lakes, eight in number, take their name from the navigator Fulton. They make a waterway, with small interruptions, from Old Forge to Raquette Lake. The steamers of the Fulton Naviga- tion Company run from Old Forge to the head of Fourth Lake, carrying passengers and supplies to hotels and camps along the line. Fare, seventy- five cents. The low shores of First Lake are a natural home of the beaver, and in the near neighborhood on the south and on the South Branch of Moose River, some of the families of them recently introduced in the Adi- rondacks are now domiciled. The land adjoining First and Second lakes is mostly owned by Mrs. W. A. Soper, whose picturesque camp stands op- posite that of the late President Harrison. A narrow channel leads to Third Lake, which is more attractive than the two preceding. On the north side of the lake is Bald Mountain, a high ridge about a mile in length. From its crest, which is bare of trees and easily reached, one may obtain a good view of the surrounding region and, on a clear day, see Blue Mt. and other peaks. At the foot of the mountain is the Bald Mountain House. Address, C. M. Barrett, Old Forge. [27] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Fourth Lake has long been a favorite resort. It is one of the be^ known and most frequented places in the Adirondacks. It is about six miles long and most of its length one mile or more in width. The shores of the lake are lined with pleasant though not pretentious summer cottages. In the daytime the numerous craft on the water, at night the hghts which are thickly sprinkled along the margin of the lake give to passers-by cheerful evidence of the summer population. Evening entertainments, frequent trips to and fro between points m the neighborhood, excursions of outside parties, baseball games between neighboring camps, all add to the life of the place and go to make the atmosphere of sociability which prevails. The Eagle Bay House has accommodations for one hundred and seventy-five. The house and grounds are lighted by gas, and the house is heated by steam. There are seven open fires. The casino, which was recently built, is tastefully finished in hard wood. It has twelve attractive bachelor apartments with private baths. Here also are a reception room and a ball- room. Below are the post-office, barber shop, and a boathouse with twenty-five rowboats and canoes. There are two cottages. A well kept lawn occupies the slope between the hotel and the lake. The table is ex- ceptionally elaborate and furnishes delicacies that one does not expect to find remote from city markets. The hotel has an especially fine garden, from which an abundance of vegetables may be had. There are two fine springs. A pleasant climb leads to the top of Black Bear Mt. From this, Raquette Lake and Blue Mt. Lake can be seen. Rates $4 a day; $1 7 to $35 a week, one in a room; $40 to $60, two in a room. Special rates to families. Open June 1 to November 15. Other houses on Fourth Lake are Cohasset (Address, Old Forge), Neodak, Cedar Island, Rocky Point inn. Arrowhead Inn, and The Wood (Address, Inlet). The Inlet connects Fourth and Fifth Lakes. From Fourth Lake to Fifth Lake (,'3 mile long) X mile; to Sixth Lake ('_> mile long) '^4. mile; to Seventh Lake 1 mile. Eagle Bay may also be reached by the Raquette Lake Railway, which meets the New York Central at CLLARvVAXER. The locomotives on this railway use oil for fuel, an arrangement which, if adopted generally on lines running through the Adirondacks, would apparently greatly diminish the danger of foreSt fires. Through sleeping cars from New York run over this line. Fare from Clearwater to Eagle Bay, fifty cents. This route is also a convenient means of access to the Seventh Lake House, which is three and one-half miles from Eagle Bay. For information about this house see page 30. [28] EAGLE BAY HOTEL HEAD OF FOURTH LAKE HIGH ALTITUDE PURE AIR FINE BOATING NO HAY FEVER ELABORATE OR MALARIA TABLE EXCELLENT GARDEN NEW CASINO WITH BACHELOR APARTMENTS W. A. PRESTON EAGLE BAY, N.Y. /« ",vr-i/ti!g to advertisers please iiieiitio/i this book. [29] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Seventh Lake House HIGHEST ELEVATION OF ANY HOTEL ON FULTON CHAIN OF LAKES FOK I'AKTlCn.ARS ADDKESS THE PKOPKIETOH F. A. WILLIAMS, INLET, N.Y. The Seventh Lake House on Seventh Lake is a place "without any frills," but one of growing popularity. Seventh Lake is three miles long and one mile wide. Adjoining are what are practically virgin forests of fragrant pine and balsam, with places suitable for camping and picnic parties. Hunting and fishing are found in the vicinity. A pleasant trip is easily made in a day to Raquette Lake and back by way of Eighth Lake. Trips to Bug, Eighth, Limekiln, and Eagle Lakes, and Black Bear Mt. can be made easily in a half day. The hotel has an elevation of 1 820 feet above sea level, and therefore a delightfully cool temperature is the rule. A furnace provides heat when it is needed, and the house is equipped with sanitary plumbing. There is a long distance telephone, and mail is brought by rural free delivery. Vegetables and milk are obtained from a garden and cows kept by the hotel. Two new rustic cottages with bath and fireplace have been built during the past winter. This is the only hotel on the lake, and it is therefore secluded and quiet. Guests arrive by train at Eagle Bay, by boat at the main landing at the head of Fourth Lake. A team meets the afternoon train and boat, other trains and boats on request. Fare from Nation, fifty cents; from boat, twenty-five cents. For terms address the pro- prietor. L30J [31] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS RAQUETTE LAKE station on the shore of Raquette Lake is at the end of the Raquette Lake Railway. Fare from Clearwater, ninety- five cents. An excellent meal may be obtained at the railway restaurant for one dollar. A few miles from Raquette Lake on the south are three elaborate private places: Kamp Kill Kare, owned by Hon. Timothy L. Woodruff, on Lake Kora; Saga- more Lodge on Sagamore Lake, the property of Mr. Alfred G. Vanderbilt; and Camp Uncas on Mohegan Lake, owned by Mr. I. Pierpont Morgan and reputed kAM,.kiL,. kAK,.; Photograph by A. L. Mix , "^ , ^ d: lOn AAH to have cost at least $120,000 to build. These latter places are all reached from Uncas Road station. Raquette Lake is the largest lake in the Adirondacks (twelve miles by three miles). Its outline is extremely irregular; many deeply receding bays give to the whole a shape to which the Indian name, Lake of the Great Star, is appropriate. It contains some twenty islands, whose wooded outlines add much to the beauty of the place. The elevation of the lake itself ( 1 762 feet) is so great that the surrounding heights are not by com- parison conspicuously high. Ridges of moderate height rise by gentle slopes from the level of the lake, whose picturesquely ragged outline is one of the principal beauties of the place. An unbroken stretch of thick growth of evergreens follows the line of the shore and reaches back in apparently end- less Wretches of what seems to the eye the virgin forest. This secluded re- gion, whose native beauties are still unmarred by destructive attempts at improvement, was long ago penetrated by the more adventurous who felt the lure of the wilderness and were not restrained by the difficulties which the journey to it then presented. Since even before the time of Adiron- dack Murray its wild beauty has been extolled. Says Murray writing in 1 869 and describing a trip through the woods, "Then go on and do not camp until you do so on the southern or western shore of Raquette Lake. Here you will find good sporting and scenery unsurpassed. Build here your central camp, and, as soon as you are established, take your boat and go over to the 'Wood's Place,' and from the knoll on which the, house stands you will gaze upon one of the finest water views in the world. '•' * * Then paddle to Beaver Bay, and find that point in it from which you can arouse a whole family of sleeping echoes along the western ridge and the 132] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS heavy woods opposite. Then go to Constable Point, and quench your thirst at the coolest, sweetest spring of pure water from which you ever drank. Go next to the southern part of the lake, so hidden behind the islands that you would never suspect such a lovely sheet of water lay beyond, with its two beautiful reaches of softly shining sand, one white as silver, the other yellow as gold; and m the waters which lave the golden, find the best bath- ing in the whole wilderness." In J. T. Headley's book, written twenty years earlier, occurs this passage, "Let the spectator overlook a scene like this, and at the same time bring within the scope of his vision the whole southern section of the lake, with its islands, indented shores, and conter- minous forests, and a richer and more picturesque view can scarcely be imagined. Add to this the sullen stillness of the wilderness, where nature, unmarred by the hand of man, dwells in her primeval glory — her music the pealing thunder — the eagle's shrill voice — the wild notes of the loon — and the sound of the gentle breeze as it ruffles the surface of the lake — and no man of sensibility can escape the enchantment." To-day one may travel to the very shore of the lake in a Pullman car and enjoy the comforts of excellent hotel service during his stay; but the region still preserves its original character, and inasmuch as the lake lies in the mid^ of State land, its forests will not be cut down, and its beauty ap- parently stands in danger of nothing except possible forest fires. Raquette Lake has an Episcopalian and a Roman Catholic church. The former, a tasteful structure located on St. Hubert's Isle, was the gift of Mr. William W. Durant. Of the attractive rustic cottages built of logs in their natural state, of which there are several about the lake, a typical ex- ample is Echo Camp, owned by Ex-Governor Lounsbury, of Connecticut. Mrs. C. P. Huntington now owns Camp Pine Knot, of which the original part was built by Mr. Durant, who seems to have intro- duced the prevailing style of archi- tecture. Mr. Durant expended much labor and money in the de- velopment of this region. Not all his ertorts bore the rruits which his enterprise and generosity deserved. The Carry Inn at Marion River Carry and the Utowana at Blue Mt. Lake — both going to ruin — were unsuccessful ventures launched by him. It is related that a party of British and Indians once passed this way during the Revolu- bon traveling on snowshoes ( raquettes). Overtaken by a thaw which made it impossible 133] WHERE TO GO I N THE ADIRONDACKS for them to use their snowshoes, they piled them in a heap under a group of pme trees near South Inlet. The name of the lake is. by some, traced to this incident; another ex- planation derives the name from the fancied general resemblance of the shape of the lake to that of a snowshoe. Camp Pine Knot was built from the trees around which the forego- ing tradition centers. Indian Point is reputed to be the site of a primitive settlement of red men. Osprey Island, directly in front of The Antlers, took its name from an osprey which long ago made its home there. This island was afterward sometimes called "Murray Island," in honor of the well-known writer. At one time a recluse named Alvah Dunning, morose and taciturn, had a camp on this island, where he lived with his dogs for company and gave scant welcome to passers-by. The principal hotel is The Antlers. Other places are Brightside, Sunset Camp, and Hunters' Rest. Address, Raquette Lake. Blue Mountain Lake is reached by steamer from Raquette Lake. Two trips are made daily. Fare, $L25. After crossing Raquette Lake from The Antlers to the mouth of Marion River, the steamer slowly makes its way about four miles up the narrow, tortuous channel. A tangled for- est growth, in which dead tamaracks are thickly interspersed, crowds close to the low, sedgy banks. At Marion River Carry passengers and baggage are transferred about a half mile in open cars to Utowana Lake, where another steamboat is taken for Blue Mountain Lake. On Utowana Lake is Daly's Hotel (Address, Raquette Lake). Beyond Utowana Lake (two miles long) is Eagle Lake (one mile long). Eagle Lake derives its chief general interest from its association with "Ned Buntline" (Mr. Edward Z. C. Judson). Mr. Judson was born in 1823. As a boy he ran away to sea and later he served in the Seminole, Mexican, and Civil Wars. At different times he employed his versatile powers as an author, lecturer, and actor. He had an ungovernable temper, and during the time when he lived at Eagle's Nest, he gained considerable local notoriety from occasional episodes in which he was an actor. He has a juster clcum to re- membrance in his numerous writings, some of which are Buffalo Bill stories, others prose and verse of much delicacy and beauty of sentiment. The site of his wilderness home is now held by a private club, another institution which owes existence to the initiative of Mr. Durant. A new outlet to Blue Mt. Lake has been constructed with a channel which permits the passage of steamers. Across the old outlet is a substantial bridge of rustic design, erected by Mr. William W. Durant in memory of his father. Dr. Charles C. Durant, at one time vice-president and general manager of the Union Pacific Railway. Blue Mountain Lake challenges comparison with any spot in the Adirondacks. It has not, to be sure, the extent of Raquette Lake or the in- teresting variety of mountain scenery around Lake Placid, but it has a charm that is peculiarly its own. "Gem" and "Pearl" of the Adirondacks, terms often applied to it, best express the refined beauty of the place. The view is seen to good advantage from the western end of the lake in late afternoon. As one looks across the glassy surface of the lake, whose small [34] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Blue Mountain House XQUISITE SCENERY. HOMELIKE SUR- I ROUNDINGS. LOCA- TION SECLUDED, BUT EASI- LY ACCESSIBLE. PRICES REASONABLE J- J^ J- J. M. TY LER ME RWI N TOWAHLOONDAH, HAMILTON COUNTY, N.Y. islands rest the eye, to where the purpling slopes of Blue Mountain roll back to the horizon, in outline, color, and spirit, the scene is satisfying in a degree seldom experienced. The Blue Mountain House is placed among surroundings which for quiet, restful beauty would be hard to equal. It stands some two hundred feet above Blue Mt. Lake; behind it looms the towering bulk of Blue Mt.; below lies the azure surface of the lake, with the steamboat landing and the little hamlet of Blue Mountain Lake. Here is no whirl of social gaiety, no demands of ultra-fashionable society. The hotel itself makes no architect- ural pretensions. On the other hand the place is eminently attractive and homelike. Its guests are persons who wish to enjoy themselves sensibly, wl:o become acquainted with each other, and find enjoyment in the entertain- ment which all help to provide. The rates are moderate, and the fare, though not elaborate, is plentiful and satisfactory. Long Lake may be reached over a nine mile drive by stage (fare, $1.25) or carriage from Blue Mt. Lake, or by similar conveyance from Long Lake West. The drive from Blue Mt. Lake is over a very good road and through the woods its entire length. Long Lake (thirteen miles), which is really an expansion of the Raquette River, is narrow in proportion [35] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS to its length, being only about one and one-half miles across at its wide^ point. This region may fairly claim to be the most secluded spot where summer travelers go in all the Adirondacks. On the shore of the lake are camps, more or less elaborate, and two important hotels, The Sagamore and Deerland Lodge. Along the eastern shore of the lake is a strip of cleared land and a straggling village with a settled population of some hundreds. The Long Lake make of boat is manufactured here. In this region some of the most extensive lumber operations now conducted in the Adirondacks are being carried on. Owl's Head Mt. lies near the head of the lake; Mt. Kempshall is a prominent feature near the other end. OLD FORGE TO PAUL SMITH'S— WATER ROUTE For route from Old Forge to Raquette Lake see page 26. From Raquette Lake, to Forked Lake, to Forked Lake Carry, through Raquette River eight miles (navigable about three-quarters of the way), through Long Lake thirteen miles, through Raquette River twelve miles (with one mile carry past Raquette Falls), to Axton, through Stony Creek three miles, through Spectacle (Stony Creek) Ponds one and one-half miles, by Indian Carry one mile, to Upper Saranac Lake. Upper Saranac Lake may also be reached from Long Lake by the following routes: Long Lake, to Clear, to Little Slim, to Big Slim, to Stony Pond, to Little Tupper, (or Long Lake, to Forked, to Little Forked, to Carry, to Bottle, to Little Tupper) four miles to Round Lake, to Tupper Lake, through Raquette River eleven miles to Tromblee's, by Sweeney Carry three miles to Wawbeek on Upper Saranac Lake. These latter [36] WHERE TO G 053 IN THE ADIRONDACKS routes involve a considerable number of carries and should be taken only by those who are prepared to meet some degree of hardship. Through Upper Saranac Lake to Saranac inn, two miles to Little Clear, to Green, to Little Long, to Bear, to Marsh, to Upper St. Regis, to Spitfire, through Lower St. Regis to Paul Smith's. The last named route is called the "Seven Carries. " An alternative route, less novel but easier for the guide, is by "Two Carries" as follows: From Saranac Inn four miles to Lake Clear, two miles to Upper St. Regis, to Spitfire, through Lower St. Regis to Paul Smith's. The trip, may of course, be made in the reverse direction, with the slight disadvantage of going against the current on the Raquette River, when traveling by way of Raquette Falls. On the longest carries a horse is necessary, costing $ I to $2 according to distance. Guides may be en- gaged with boats at any of the resorts along the route. Those who enjoy canoeing, it is needless to say, will find the trip interesting and delightful. BIG MOOSE station is the point of greatest elevation on the line of the Mohawk and Malone Division of the New York Central (2033 ft.), as is graphically illustrated by the puffing of the locomotives when they draw loads of freight past this point. Teams meet trains at the station to take passengers to Glenmore Landing at the foot of Big Moose Lake, two miles to the east. Fare, fifty cents. The level of the lake (four and one-half miles by one mile) is so high that there are no prominent peaks to be seen near by. The air is remarkably clear and bracing. [37] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The Glenmore is the hotel first reached at the foot of the lake. In 1 908 it was conducted by a new management. The present proprietor, Mr. J. R. Duquette, belongs to a race famous for culinary skill and is him- self a hotel man of long experience. He has set out to make a reputation for the table at the Glenmore, whose storeroom and cellar produce an abun- dance of articles to satisfy an exacting palate. Names of responsible per- sons in both Canada and the States who are well satisfied patrons of Mr. Duquette will be furnished on application. The house has capacity for one hundred guests, it is heated by steam and lighted by gas and has modern sanitation. It has a long distance telephone. Amusements offered are bathing, tramping, boating, tennis, billiards, and in the evening dancing for those who are inclined to it. Terms, $1 2 to $25 a week. Lake View Lodge has a desirable location on a point near the foot of the lake. It stands on high, dry ground and through the trees, of which there are just enough around, commands a fine view of the lake. The Lodge is a substantial three story building in good condition. It has open fires, is lighted by gas, and has sanitary plumbing. There are six rustic cottages, each provided with bath and fireplace. Vegetables and milk are produced on the premises. Terms. $1 2 to $20 a week. Lake View Lodge WITH SIX RUSTIC COTTAGES UPERB VIEW. AIR COOL AND INVIGOR- I ATING. COMFORT- ABLE SURROUNDINGS. WELL FURNISHED TABLE. SATISFIED PATRONAGE. CHARLES WILLIAMS BIG MOOSE, N.Y. [38] |)Otel 61enmorc AND COTTAGES ITS HIGH ALTITUDE, ABUN- DANT SPORT, AND SUPERIOR CUISINE, COMBINED WITH ITS EXPERIENCED MANAGE- MENT AND COURTEOUS AT- TENTION TO GUESTS, MAKE THIS A POPULAR RESORT J. R. DUQUETTE BIG MOOSE, N.Y. hi uiritins; to advertisers please mention this book. [39] WHERE TO GO IN T HE ADIRONDACKS There are some thirty ponds within two miles of Big Moose Lake. This is one of the finest hunting and fishing sections in the woods. Beaver River station gives access to the Beaver River Clubhouse and the preserve connected with it. Brandreth Lake station marks the western extremity of the Brand- reth Preserve, which takes its name from two of the owners. In this preserve are Brandreth Lake and sources of the Raquette, Beaver, and Moose rivers. Keepawa, Partlow, and Ne-ha-sa-ne are private stations on Ne-ha-sa-ne Park. Dr. William Seward Webb, president. Dr. Webb is well known on account of his connection with important railroad affairs, including the construction of the line on which these stations are located. Ne-ha-sa-ne Park contains over 40,000 acres, hs two largest bodies of water are Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake and Lake Lila, the latter named after Mrs. Webb, who was Lila Osgood Vanderbilt. Keepawa is near Ne-ha-sa-ne Lake, which lies east of the railroad. The main buildings are on Lake Lila, which is near Ne-ha-sa-ne station on the east. The park is enclosed by a wire fence, and within its limits game has been carefully preserved and steps taken toward the propagation of uncommon species. Robinwood is the summer home of Mr. Irving Bacheller, a well- known author. Mr. Bacheller has made familiar the North Country, where the scene of his Eben Holden is laid. His Silas Strong is a delightful story of woods life and incidentally a forceful appeal for the preservation of the forests. Mr. Bacheller's estate includes Robin Lake. LONG LAKE WEST is twenty miles from Long Lake. Stages between these places run daily, except Sunday, leaving each place at 7 a. m. and arriving at the other about noon. Fare, two dollars each way, includ- ing one hundred pounds of baggage; excess baggage, one dollar for each one hundred pounds. Private conveyance carrying three persons, or fewer, and driver, eight dollars. Notice should be given two days ahead to the railroad station agent at Long Lake West, when a private conveyance is desired. Address, Sabattis. The road to Long Lake is rough and diffi- cult. It passes through the Whitney Preserve. Some of the most des- tructive forest fires in 1 908 raged in the vicinity of Long Lake West. At Horse Shoe numerous operations with a view to ideal fore^ development have been set on foot through the initiative of Mr. Augustus A. Low, brother of Hon. Seth Low, of New York. This valuable estate contains 27,000 acres. On it sawmills have been constructed, private tracks laid, and other facilities introduced for use in the production of lumber and maple sugar and in connection with similar forest industries in the de- L40J [411 WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS velopment of which, in accordance with his ideas, Mr. Low has shown en- thusiastic intereS. At Pleasant Lake (reached from the station of the same name) is the property of a private club. CHILD\VOLD is the point of departure for Massawepie Lake and vicinity. The lake and the land between it and the station lie in Childwold Park, a private preserve embracing 6,000 acres. Near the northern end of the lake is the commodious Hotel Child WOld. Address, Massawepie. A half-mile farther, on Catamount Pond, is Gale's, one of the old and moderate priced resorts of this region. Address, Gale. The drive from the station is seven miles in length and over a pleasant road. Fare, $ 1 . This road continues to Potsdam and Canton. Parties going over this route may also hire conveyance at Piercefield, a hamlet whose welfare centers chiefly around a plant of the International Paper Company. Seven miles beyond Gale's the road passes Seavey's, where hunters and transients can secure entertainment at a small price. Ad- dress, Seavey. TUPPER LAKE JUNCTION is at the junction of the New York Central and the New York and Ottawa Railroad, which starting from Tupper Lake crosses the Rutland Railroad at Moira. On the New York and Ottawa around Bay Pond, is Mr. William G. Rockefeller's Preserve, which contains over 50,000 acres. Some irritation has been manifested in that vicinity by per- sons who were formerly accustomed to hunt and fish on this tract. The fadt should not be overlooked, however, that Mr. Rockefeller has paid for much of this land two or three times its value, or more, enab- ling the former owners to purchase good farms elsewhere, and that he has given permanent remunerative employment to many residents of the region. Spring Cove is the nearest station to the modest inn kept by D. J. Day, four miles by stage from the railroad and near what is known locally as Blue Mt. Tupper Lake Junction is the most convenient point from which to reach The Wawbeek, Hiawatha Lodge, and Saranac Club. Tupper Lake village IS one mile from the station. Travelers may dine at the Hotel Alta- mont ($2 a day) and secure from Hayes's Livery, under the same management, conveyance for the above named places. Fare, two dollars. The road to Upper Saranac Lake (nine miles) is first-class. The disastrous fires of 1903 raged here, andUor some miles from the village the timber has been mostly swept away. About halfway to the lake one passes the site of the Cornell School of Forestry, which was maintained during the'years 1899-1903. The State gave to Cornell University [43] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS the timber rights on a large tract bordering on the Raquette River to control absolutely for the purposes of scientific forestry. The University contracted to dispose of its produdl to the Brooklyn Cooperage Company, which constructed railroads for the purpose of conducting operations. Popular dissatisfaction subsequently arose over the methods employed, and the grant to Cornell was revoked. Plantations of Scotch and White pine which were set out when the school was in operation are now some nine years old, and the trees are of considerable size. Hiawatha Lodge is one mile distant from Upper Saranac Lake on Indian Carry. Here one meets with mountain scenery that has all the charm of that around Upper Saranac. Seward, Stony Creek, and Panther Mountains are included in the outlook. Close beside the Lodge are the quiet waters of Spectacle Ponds, to which the Indians gave the name Enchanted Waters. Here tradition says the warriors in the olden days held their council fires. So well is the atmosphere of the forest still preserved that this place seems appropriate for the scene of one of Cooper's romances. The Lodge is an excellent starting place for long distance boating. A row across the three Spectacle Ponds ( 1 ' - miles) and through Stony Creek (3 miles) or a two mile drive to Axton (a station of the teams of the Santa Clara Lumber Company on their way to Ampersand Mt.), brings one to the Raquette River. From Axton one may row twenty miles to Tupper Lake village or seven miles to Raquette Falls without a carry. Sportsmen find the Lodge a convenient stopping place on their way to and from the Cold River country during the hunting season. The fare is abundant and satisfactory. There are several cottages for rent to private parties. This hotel affords a good opportunity to enjoy the region of the Upper Saranac at a moderate price. Rates, $3 a day; $ 1 5 a week and upward. Some interesting Indian legends are connected with the region around Upper Saranac Lake. According to one of these, a giant once upon a time lived beside the lake. His ^ride was enormous. At the coming of the white man he forthwith left this region, cross- ing at one step Indian Carry, between Upper Saranac Lake and Spectacle Ponds, where he left in the rock a huge footprint to mark his flight. An Indian maiden named Wah-loon-dah, Rippling Water, was once wooed and won by a brave named Os-sa-wah, Plumed Eagle. The two chose Ampersand Pond as the scene of their honeymoon. One day, when Os-sa-wah had gone to hunt, Wah-loon-dah heard him calling in distress. She hastened to the spot from which had come the sound of his voice, but found only his lifeless body lying where, running in pursuit of game, he had fallen over a precipice. Alone she performed over his body the burial rites of her people; then she plunged a knife into her own breast. Now, when other mountain lakes are lashed by Storms, Ampersand Pond moves but gently, as if the calm spirit of Rippling Water still lived in its depths. Another Indian maiden had a lover whose suit she refused. One day pursued by him she leaped into the Raquette to escape his too ardent wooing. On the spot where she went to her death, sprang up the pond lily, its white emblematic of her purity, its yellow in token of her brief inclination to yield. The cardinal flower, according to another legend, sprang from the blood of a sacred white deer which an Indian hunter had slain. [44] Hia\vatha Lodge IN THE REGION OF THE UPPER SARANAC Picturesque and Romantic Location Fishing, Hunting, and Boating Table Abundant Perfect Sanitation Pure Spring Water W. L. BECKMAN COREYS, N.Y. hi uiriting to aiivertisers please tueutioii this book . [45] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS SARANAC INN station is the railway station nearest to Upper Saranac Lake, which is two miles distant. This lake has long had the distinction of being one of the places most enjoyed by those who love the life of the woods. It attracts to its hospitality both by its natural sur- roundings and by its associations. The scenery has a rare variety of at- tradlive characteristics. In the foreground are low mountains; behind these rise tiers of higher peaks receding in picturesque succession to the crowning summits of Whiteface and Saddleback on the east and Marcy and Mclntyre on the south. The mountain slopes, densely wooded in all diredions, are in the case of the nearest, of a deep, dark green, which gradually shades in- to the faint blue of the distant horizon. A peculiar impression of spaciousness is given by the wide outlook of lake and forest and mountain, and there is a stimulating quality in the crisp, clear air that prompts to participation in the different forms of recreation, of which a peculiarly abundant variety is offered. The lake is an irregular body of water about eight miles in length, with several islands, the shore all wooded with good-sized trees. At various points are elaborate and substantial camps. That of Mr. Levi P. Morton is in rustic style, the surface treated with brown stain, as are many of the camps of this style in the Adirondacks. The camp of Mr. John P. Agar, on Birch Point, has the appearance of a finished house. On Ufi'EK Sai-'a.nac Lakk By f>erinission of Kenneth Gohithwaite SARANAC INN I'Jiotograph I'V lUs/iii Saranac Inn Is a Hostelry of Rstah- Ushed Reputation n^ n^ n^ It preserves an air of Old Fashioned Simplicity and Hospitality combined with Modern Equipment n^ "^c The Impression which it desires to give is that ot Dignity, Comfort, and Refinement sie v^ n^ M. B. MARSHALL, Manager UPF'FR SARANAC, NEW YORK /« xvritiiig to ndrertisers />/eiiif mention this book. [47] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS ^\ i ^^^q^ll li m^" "Bkr " '^ VHIi Saranac Inn is located at the head of the lake. It is a hotel of the highest class. The keynote of its management is quiet good taste. The architecture of the buildings is modest and dignified; the appointments are appropriate and adequate, with avoidance of cheap display, and are scrupu- lously cared for. This has for a generation been a favorite resort of a select and well established clientage among patrons who have learned to depend upon receiving here entirely satisfactory service and who come again and again to this place in preference to less exclusive establishments. Many persons of social and political prominence are numbered among the patrons of the hotel. In the summer of 1 908, the Governor of New York and his family spent the season here. 1 he late Ex-President Cleveland formerly spent his summers on the lake. Among the regular visitors pleasant acquaintances are formed and renewed from year to year. All the usual means of out-door diversion are found. Golf and similiar amusements are, of course, well patronized, but the lake and the numerous ponds near by and the woods trails give at this resort an exceptionally good opportunity for fishing and hunting and for tramping and boating, with a spice of wilderness life. Mr. M. B. Marshall is the courteous and efficient manager of the Inn. A steamer starts from the Inn and makes the circuit of the lake twice a day (except Sundays), taking four hours for the trip and covering about twenty-four miles. Fare one way, seventy-five cents; round trip, one dollar. Casual visitors can make a pleasant excursion by arriving at the Inn before dinner, taking the afternoon boat, and leaving by train for north or south after supper at the Inn. There is an excellent macadam road from the Nation to the Inn. A tally-ho coach meets all trains. Fare, twenty-five cents ; trunks, twenty-five cents each. Post office address, Upper Saranac ; telegraph, Saranac Inn. Fishing and Hunting. Brook, lake, and rainbow trout, land- locked salmon, and whitefish are caught in the lake and ponds, the waters of the lake being recruited from time to time with fry from the Adirondack Fish Hatchery located near Saranac Inn station. Some of the finest hunting grounds in the State are easily accessible. It is believed that in the vicinity of Upper Saranac Lake, and there alone of all parts of the Adirondacks, the beaver has never been wholly exterminated. To harm at this time any of [48] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS these animals, which so earnest an effort is being made to restore as a feature of the Adirondacks, would be not only a violation of the game laws, but an act deserving of general indignation. Trips. The region around Upper Saranac Lake contains a re- markable number of ponds, in many instances separated from each other by only short carries. It is therefore possible to make numerous interestingly varied boat trips from the lake as a starting point. The following are some of the most desirable: — To Lower Saranac Lake: Upper Saranac Lake to Bartlett Carry, to Saranac River, to Round Lake, to Saranac River, to Lower Saranac Lake. Time, four hours each way. To Rollins Pond: From Saranac Inn drive one mile to Hoel; thence by boat to Turtle, to Slang, to Long, to West Pine, to Pond-with-a-rock- in-it, to Rollins. Return by the same route or as follows: Rollins to Whey, to Big Square, to Fish Creek, to Upper Saranac; or Rollins to Floodwood, to Middle, to Pollywog, to Green, to Spring, to Upper Saranac. By the last named route the round trip requires four hours; by the other two, five hours. See also the all water route from Old Forge to Paul Smith's. Panther Mt. is an easy "ladies' climb." Stony Creek and Ampersand Mts. are well worth climbing, but the inexperienced should employ a guide. On Follensby (or Follansbee) Pond was the camp of the "ten scholars," the story of whose expedition Emerson told in his poem, Ttie AJirondacs. W. J. Stillman, then a young landscape peunter, had visited this region and become acqueiinted with its beauties. At Cambridge he awakened interest in the place to the degree that in 1857 a journey of exploration was made through the surrounding country, and in August, 1 858, a party came to this place to camp. The members of the party were Lowell, Emerson, Agassiz, Jeffries Wyman, Estes Howe, John Holmes, Judge Hoar, Horatio Woodman, Amos Binney, and W. J. Stillman. It is not strange that the visit of this rare company is still remembered. Lowell is spoken of as having been the leading spirit. Agassiz and Jeffries Wyman found entertainment for themselves and others in observing plant and animal life. Emerson sought the seclusion congenial to his nature or studied with intere^ the habits of the guides, who as he learned reversed the customs of the outside world, putting on their hats when they enter a house and their coats when they go to bed. But even Emerson finally caught the desire to get a deer and made an effort at hunting, with eagerness as great as his lack of skill. Longfellow professed to explain his not becoming a member of the party by fear due to the fact that Emerson took a gun. "Camp Maple" was a name chosen by Lowell, but "Philosophers' Camp" is the familiar designation. So pleased were all with the experiment that they planned to establish a permanent camp on Ampersand Pond, but the Civil War put an end to the project. Follensby Pond lies within what is now a private park owned by Messrs. Titus B. and Ferns J. Meigs. Near the southern end of Upper Saranac are two hotels, Waw- beek and Saranac Club. Rustic Lodge has been closed. It is said that its owners, the Messrs. Swenson, will erect a camp on the site. 149] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS LAKE CLEAR JUNCTION is the point from which diverge Paul Smith's Electric Railway running to Paul Smith's hotel and the rail- road which runs to Saranac Lake village (Lower Saranac Lake), and Lake Placid. Fare to Paul Smith's, fifty cents. Through sleeping cars from New York run over both these roads. Paul Smith's is preeminently the place frequented by those who wish to visit the real wilderness without being deprived of the luxuries of life. At the door of the hotel one may step from a Pullman car in which he has come from the Grand Central Station without a change. Around are thousands of acres of timber, and in the air is the odor of the ever- green. A park of 30,000 acres containing miles of forest and the St. Regis and Osgood Lakes is open to sportsmen. But in the neighbor- hood of the hotel the features that would be forbidding to those un- accustomed to them have been smoothed away. The wood's roads are made fit for the use of the ele- gant turnouts which are provided by the hotel stables. On the shores of the lakes toward which face the hotel verandas are not rude hunters' cabins as one might infer from their wild appearance when seen at a dis- tance. Instead on Upper St. Regis are numerous elaborate summer " homes of well-known millionaires. The hotel, which can accommodate some five hundred guests, provides everything to be expected by those who wish the best and are willing to pay for it. The table has always enjoyed a reputation for ex- ceptional excellence. There is opportunity for all sorts of out-door recrea- tion for the actively inclined and the elegancies of polite society for those who prefer less strenuous amusement. A casino, tastefully designed and furnished, affords a place in which to enjoy in comfort a game of billiards or of bridge. A baseball nine each year disputes preeminence with rivals from some of the principal resorts. Boats of all kinds and sizes may be rented, and there is a colony of guides at hand to pilot the inex- perienced on either land or water. [50] mitj)*6 HOTEL, COTTAGE, CASINO AND CAMP LIFE ALL OUT- DOOR SPORTS P'^^^l ST. REGIS AND OSGOOD CHAIN OF LAKES ^ ^ THROUGH PULLMANS TO AND FROM NEW YORK WITHOUT CHANGE VIA NEW YORK CENTRAL AND PAUL SMITH'S ELECTRIC RAILROAD V ^• ^» ^• DIRECT WIRES TO NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE For further particulars address PAUL SMITHS. N.Y. hi 'ivritiut^ to advertisers />/easf' nie}itio7i tJiis book. [51] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Paul Smith is acknowledged premier of Adirondack hotel proprietors. He originally bore the name of Apollo Austin Smith. "Apollo" was first corrupted to "Pol," which afterward came to be written m the form now familiar. As a young man he was a guide and kept a small hotel on Loon Lake, in 1861 he opened on Lower St. Regis Lake the modest house out of which has grown one of the best known hotels in this country. The proprietor of it has come to be known first as a royal entertainer, next as a sagacious and enterprising business man and the owner of large wealth. At the age of eighty-two, Mr. Smith still retains a keen interest in affairs and remarkable bodily vigor, though the manage- ment of the details of the extensive business that centers around the hotel property is now in younger hands. The "camps" of the members of the millionaire colony on the St. Regis lakes form a group of the most beautiful and elaborate summer homes in the Adirondacks. Some of these present striking variations from the familiar rustic camp, more or less conventionalized, that is found on Raquette and Upper Saranac lakes and elsewhere. The first to make a wide departure from traditional styles was Mr. Frederick W. Vanderbilt, who imported archi- tects from far Japan and had grounds laid out in Japanese fashion and a group of houses built with curving roofs and other quaint oriental features. Mr. George H. Earle achieved individuality by another departure entirely new to this regiop. He built at Katia, his summer home, a tasteful strudure made of cobblestones laid in black mortar. Mr. S. J. Drake has made use of the Swiss chalet as an architectural motive, uniting it with the cobblestone method of building. Among the other owners of summer homes on this group of lakes are Hon. Whitelaw Reid, Mr. Anson Phelps Stokes, Judge W. K. Townsend, Mr. A. W. Durkee, Mrs. Robert Hoe, and Mrs. Clarence R. Britton. From Gabriels one may drive sixteen miles to Meacham Lake, where is the Meacham Lake Hotel (Address, Meacham Lake), and four- teen miles farther to Lake Duane and the Hotel Ayers (Address, Ayers). The latter place is more easily reached from Malone, fifteen miles distant. At Gabriels is a sanatarium for consumptives, under the man- agement of the Sisters of Mercy. Rainbow Lake has several houses where boarders are taken. At Lake Kushaqua is the Stony wold Sanatarium. LOON LAKE is a station of both the New York Central and the Delaware & Hudson railroads. The Loon Lake HouSC is a resort of high standing. Its surroundings are most attractive. Address, Loon Lake. SARANAC LAKE Nation (Lower Saranac Lake) lies at the junction of the New York Central and the D. &] H., on the way to Lake Placid. This enterprising village is well known as a resort for persons afflicted with pulmonary troubles. L52J ^/SCR ANTON WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS LA-KE PLACID is at the end of railroad travel in this direction and deserves to be the culmination of a journey that presents so many natural beauties. in any direction as one looks from near the shore of Placid and Mirror Lakes, rise verdure-clad mountains which in endless succession stretch away to the picturesquely broken outline of the distant horizon, where Marcy, Mclntyre, Haystack, Whiteface, and other peaks rise above the neighboring heights. The outlook is serene and profoundly im- pressive. In its majestic repose the mountain scenery of this region is less overpowering than that of some of the highest mountain chains of the world, but many find it even more attractive. Under changing circumstances the aspect of the scene is interestingly varied. When the outlines of the moun- tains are touched by dawn, or their broken surface lies under the shifting lights of mid-day, and again when the summits are wrapped with lowering clouds or fade out in the shadows of the night, a mobile and always beauti- ful panorama meets the eye. Lakes Mirror and Placid, themselves some 2000 feet above the level of the sea, lie within this girdle of mountains. They are of exquisite beauty and complete the picture that meets the eye of the spectator. Though Placid's waters are deep-dyed with an Aegean blue, and her mountains, serene and venerable with their millions of years, whether somber or smiling according to their mood, the visitor need not depend on merely the immediate spectacle of this "Garden of the Gods" for his pleas- ures. There are ample opportunities for all sorts of recreation. There are numberless expeditions to sequestered spots to be taken and Jacob's Ladders to be climbed by those mighty of limb and great of ambition. The mountains are completely covered with forests of evergreen and the deciduous trees native to the Adirondacks. Trails lead to points of interest apart from the highways and to the tops of some of the mountains. On the higher elevations the view is extended and richly re- pays the effort of the ascent. Whiteface reaches 4872 feet above sea level and nearly 3000 feet above the level of Lake Placid. From its summit Lake George, Lake Champlain, and the White Mountains can be seen; near by on the south are the other principal peaks of the Adirondacks, and on the north and west the gaze traverses the undulating stretch of mountain, valley and forest that lies away toward the St. Lawrence River. Good roads radiate from Lake Placid in all directions, leading to the Keene Valley and other beautiful spots which may be reached in easy excursions with carriage or automobile. [54] ^ STEVENS HOUSE STE\'ENS HOUSE m en D O a ^; > H c/} U O s H en STEVENS HOUSE FINEST LOCATION IN THE ADIRONDACKS ALWAYS POPULAR WITH inose NV^ ho Kno^v H W < s o a H W < K 2: (X a o a w D O X •D H en s r 1: MATCHLESS VIEW COOLEST BREEZES EXTENSIVE GROUNDS EXCELLENT SERVICE x George A. Stevens, Lake Placid, N.Y. \ 1: N S H O IJ S E S 1 K \' E N S < M (X S o (X M HOUSE /« ".vriting to advertisers filease }nentioii this book. [56] i The Ruisseaumont i 4" tfl F/trin? directly on Lake Placid ^J_^l ClVlll^ (5££ PiaURE ON COVER) CLBoSting o n the Queen of Lakes ^Everything it ''"' ""' "' CL Service and equipment first-class ADDRESS IHI-: MANAl.EK, EVAN H. PATRICK, LAKE PLACID, N.Y. hi ivriting to advertisfrs please mention t/tis book. [57] UNDERCLIFF A PLACE THAT IS DIFFERENT IDEAL ^ ^^^ ^M'^^ Wf"'^^' COLONY OF FAMILY ^^ m ^ TWENTY RESORT W* tB^pj- ^ COTTAGES AT THE ^^^# ■ WITH MAIN HEAD OF ml CENTRAL LAKE PLACID BUILDINGS THE UNDERCLIFF COMPANY, UNDERCLIFF, N.Y. The Pines Quiet - Refined - Homelike Centrally Located All Amusements Moderate Prices A. H. STICKNEY, LAKE PLACID, NEW YORK hi loritinff to nihtertisers please vtcntion this book. [58] Qxmti ^teto Equipped with all up- to-date accessories of a metropolitan hotel '^ j< Scenery Cottage Sites for Sale Amusement Park of 400 acres Comfort THOMAS PARKES, LAKE PLACID, NEW YORK 4. 4. . — . — 4. Lakeside Inn Is located in the very center of the points of interest at Lake Placid. The Inn is well equipped and provides its guests with all forms of entertainment LAKESIDE INN Lake Placid, N.Y. The Belmont pbMMODlOUS — : ^ APARTMENTS j COMFORTABLY FURNISHED CONVENIENTLY SITUATED CONGENIAL ATMOSPHERE pHAR(;ESMOST ^ REASONABLE FRED. C. THOMAS Lake Placid.'N.Y. <« 4' /« ivriting to advertisers please mention this book [59] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The elevation which bounds Lake Mirror and Lake Placid on the south is probably the result of glacial action which at some distant day piled up the barrier that now confines the water of the lakes. The primeval forest about this spot was broken generations ago. That remote epoch of the wilderness about which Adirondack Murray wrote has been superseded at Lake Placid, as at most other places, by a new Golden Age. The magic of wealth and enterprise have brought to this se- cluded spot the appurtenances of metropolitan life. The discomforts once attendant upon a sojourn in the woods are banished. But the pristine grandeur and beauty of Lake Placid still remain; they will disappear only with her moun- tains, skies, and waters, and if one has visited her haunts and wandered in her ways, there will be found written in his heart, as in that of the British queen of old, not indeed "Calais" but "Placid." Lake Placid station is reached by through trains via the New York Central and Delaware & Hudson railroads, there being a through sleeping car from New York via the New York Central the entire year. Through parlor and sleeping cars are operated during the summer season from Buffalo, and sleeping cars from Boston and Philadelphia. One may leave New York, Boston, Buffalo, or Philadelphia in the evening and arrive at Lake Placid in the morning ; or leave New York or Buffalo m the forenoon and arrive at Lake Placid in the evening. Local passengers for Lake Placid change at Lake Clear Junction. Fare from Saranac Lake to Lake Placid, 30 cents. The station is newly built and of suitable appearance, but its immediate surroundings do not suggest the attractions which _await the visitor farther on. The stages of the Lake Placid Transfer Company carry passengers to the hotels, which are in most cases a mile or more distant. Fare, with hand baggage, 25 and 50 cents. The road ascends a steep hill past Newman post-office to Lake Placid, an incorporated village of some 1 600 inhabitants. It has electnc lights, water- works, and other im- provements that give evidence of local enterprise and public spirit. In 1908, thirty thousand dollars were spent on concrete walks and mac- adam streets. There is a fine public school, also a public library and reading room. St. Eustace by the Lakes is an Episcopal church of attractive design. Lake Placid has also a Metho- dist, a Baptist, and a Roman Catholic church. [60] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS \Ni) Vii;\v n.i I II MiRKdn Lake Amusements in the most complete diversity are offered to those who desire entertainment that is not far to seek. Public and private launches, canoes, and rowboats abound. Excellent golf links and tennis courts are maintained. Occasional tournaments afford agreeable diversion. Music is furnished at the principal hotels and frequent assemblies provide evening entertainment. The larger hotels are well equipped to satisfy a demand for luxuries, and smaller houses meet simpler tastes at corresponding rates. Main Street follows the we^ shore of Mirror Lake. Here are the shops, and by this street one reaches most of the hotels. The Grand View is the first of the larger hotels to which the visitor comes. It stands on a high hill overlooking Mirror Lake. The view which may be seen from this hotel may justly be described as "grand." See picture on page 64. The hotel is a large three and one-half story structure, with accommodations for three hundred guests. It has a sun parlor, which is an enjoyable feature. There is an especially fine ball room, where dancing is enjoyed every even- ing. Complimentary card parties, at which the prizes are furnished by the management, are held weekly. Guests not only enjoy the usual outdoor amusements but are provided with a gymnasium, bowling alley and billiard room for indoor recreation. There is an elevator, which is a rare feature. Rates, $4.00 a day and^upwards; $2 1 .00 a week and upwards. [61] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The Pines Stevens House Annex iMiKKciK Lake Turning up Signal Hill, the high ground between Mirror Lake and Lake Placid, the road leads to the superb site of the Stevens House. It is generally agreed that this hotel occupies the most sightly posi- tion of any hotel in the Adirondacks. In every direction the view is mag- nificent. The mountains, in a complete circle, present an impressive asped from every quarter of the compass. In the front lies Mirror Lake; in the rear is the south end of Lake Placid, with a Reamer landing on the hotel grounds. The well kept slopes of the hill provide an ideal place for golf and other outdoor sports. There are broad verandas of nearly a quarter of a mile in total extent encircling the hotel. Day after day one finds here a delicious breeze, when New Yorkers are sweltering in the heat. The parlors and dining room are spacious and cheery. The fare is excellent. The house has, of course, the minor comforts of other well appointed hotels. It would be difficult to name others that can boast a combination of so many attractions. Mr. George A. Stevens, the proprietor, has been one of the leading figures in the development of Lake Placid. Large of body and large of soul, he condudts a house which in all its arrangements reflects his genial personality. Rates, $4.00 a day and upwards ; by the week, $2 1 .00 and upwards. [62] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The road by which one ascends the hill to the Stevens House leads also to The Pines. This is a large private house adapted to the enter- tainment of guests, of whom it can accommodate fifty. There is a com- paratively new, well finished main structure of two and one-half stories with good sized, comfortably fur- nished rooms and an annex to pro- vide for overflow. The house is flanked attractively by a group of trees from which the place takes its name. It has a broad veranda from which one gets a part of the view that may be seen from the Stevens House. Visitors may here avail them- selves of the delightful associations of Lake Placid at a moderate expense. Rates, $2.50 a day and upward; $10 to $20 a week. Ju^ beyond is The Belmont, a three-story house recently enlarged and refurnished. The rooms are airy; the house is heated by water and lighted by electricity, has modern improvements, and is of well kept and sub- stantial appearance. It is one of the smaller and moderate-priced hotels of Lake Placid and enjoys a good reputation for the character of its accommoda- tions and the treatment of its guests. There is a pleasant grove in the rear. Rates, $2.50 a day and upward ; $12 to $25 a week. The road which, instead of ascending Signal Hill, follows around Mirror Lake passes in front of the Lakeside Inn. Within a stone's throw is Mirror Lake, across which one looks toward Wilmington Notch and the range of mountains that sweeps thence to the south. The Inn has tennis and croquet grounds and the privileges of the Lake Placid Golf Links. The house is a commodious three-story building, lighted by electricity and heated by ^eam. Rates, $2.50 to $3.00 a day; $14 to $18 a week. Following the street is a fringe of handsome cottages, the summer homes of well-known visitors. Most of the Lake Placid cottages are in the ^le of modern all-the-year houses. Owners of such residences are Mr. A. J. Roach. Mr. George H. Daniels, Mr. W. B. McElroy, Mrs. Malcolm McDonald, and Mrs. James Hardie. Mr. Victor Herbert has a Swiss chalet. Continuing in the direction indicated, one arrives at the narrow neck of land which separates Placid and Mirror Lakes. [63] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Su.NAL H:ll Lake Placid The Ruisseaumon r MiRKOK Lake The road proceeding a half-mile or so farther arrives at The Ruisseaumont, which is on abruptly rising ground on the eastern shore of Lake Placid. It can be discerned in the accompanying picture at the farther end of the narrow strip of land between the lakes. It stands about a hundred feet above the level of the water and has a superb outlook to- ward the west, where Mt. McKenzie is the dominating feature. The picture on the front cover of this book shows the view from The Ruisseau- mont. The forest, with its fragrant evergreens comes up close to the hotel, the location of which is secluded but easily accessible by both carriage and Reamer. Water craft of all kinds are constantly passing. The building is comparatively new and of modern design. It has electric lights, suites with private bath, telephone, telegraph, and every such facility demanded by comfort and convenience. There are tennis courts on the grounds, and the Lake Placid Golf Links are near by. Automobile parties are catered to by the hotel. Rates, $4 a day and upwards ; by the week $2 1 and upwards. Whiteface Inn is a large hotel of excellent character, situated on the western shore of Lake Placid. It may be reached by Reamer or by carriage from Lake Placid village and Nation. 164] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Undekcliff Those who desire to enjoy the magnificent scenery of this region and to be near the water, but who prefer to be somewhat removed from the gaiety that centers around the main resorts, will go to Undercliff. It is situated in a charming location on the margin of the lake near its head and with a close view of Mt. Whiteface. Its setting and general aspect are Willi F1A(|; AMI I.AKF Pi riiotoi^rapli by Chester I). Moses ll~ Coiit/>iiiiy WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS ^^-"^^ among the most picturesque that can be found. It is completely set into the woods which Wretch away in the rear with numerous inviting trails. This is not a hotel of the usual type. The guests live in cottages, the majority of which are taken for the season. Meals are served in a central dining room. There is a casino with boathouse where boats may be hired. Accommo- dations are provided for I 00 guests. Undercliff is a po^ office during the summer. Rates $3 a day; $15 to $25 a week. Among the first things which a visitor should enjoy is a ride on Lake Placid. A Reamer leaves the Stevens House dock four times daily during the summer. Round trip, fifty cents. Most of the camps are on the western shore of the lake. In many cases these are so hidden among the trees, that only glimpses of their approach from the lake suggest what sylvan charms are concealed from view. Information about camp sites can be obtained from Mr. P. E. Lewis, Lake Placid. Lake Placid Club. This largest of Adirondack resorts was started in 1895 by a group of prominent university officers, with the purpose of approximating as fast as practicable to an ideal vacation home for cultivated people, especially those with child- ren. Many laughed at its new ideas and said its initials P. C. stood for "Placid Cranks," and that it could not last over two years. But it has clung without wavering to those peculiar notions for fifteen years and has had unprecedented pros- perity. In 1895 it had a $5500 house on five acres, with two horses and two boats, and by hiring two adjoining cottages, crowded thirty into its dining room. In 1 908 it had one hundred and ninety-seven buildings on its six thousand acre estate, with one hundred and sixty- four boats, ninety-two horses, two hundred and twenty-five cows, thousands of white leghorns on its poultry farm, and a family of six hundred and ninety-six guests and over three hundred em- ployes. It has twenty-one farms averaging one hundred and sixty acres each, saw-mill, store, and machinery in a dozen shops, which do all its construction and repairing, no outside labor being employed. There are [66] MoKNIXI.SIDl I)kl\ 1. WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Lake Placid Ci.i'; four clubhouses, over fifty cottages, three gas plants, and three fire com- panies with many times more and better apparatus than is usual. A central plant supplies heat and power to the shops, creamery, laundry, stable, dry kiln, steam fire pumps, and winter clubhouse. The club privileges are open only to members and their guests, or to visitors holding privilege cards, which each member has a right to issue ; but callers interested in the great plant are always welcome. It is "one of the things to see" for all this section. Visitors should not miss the eighteen and nine hole golf courses with five miles of fairgreen, with two nine hole putting courses, large central golf house, and dozen shelters. Adjoining are the baseball stadium and twenty-one P orest courts, a single block including tennis, roque, croquet, basketball, bowling greens, quoits, clock golf and tether ball, where in winter a nnk is kept in fine condition for hockey, curling, and skat- ing. Next Forest courts is the Fore^ theater, Arden, where Ben Greets woodland players give their best each year. There are daily recitals by the club quartette, which has won distinction for its professional skill and the artistic merit of its programme. Other points of interest are the Fore^ library, the $30,000 cooler and food store, the Golfery, Garage, $30,000 laundry, the machines, shops, and workmen's rooms ; the white kitchen with tiled floors and wain- scoting and hotel equipment, and the immense Forest or Lakeside game rooms, with over thirty indoor games for bad weather. The annual float, about August 20, has long been famous for beauty of decoration through- out, and the annual Indian council fire, about September 3, delights visitors lucky enough to have invitations to this night in the forest, when the six Iroquois nations, in gay Indian costume, reproduce with great care and dignity some of the ceremonials of preceding centuries. There is no bar, cigar stand, or stock ticker ; no liquor is ever served in the public rooms ; and there is no noise from 1 p. m. to 8 a. m. It is a place [67] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS of simplicity, early hours, and constant outdoor life. All display is avoided. Its menu is simple and its furniture plain. No man ever wears evening dress, and the ladies who overdress invite reminder by ladies on the council that it is a violation of long established club custom. No expense is spared to insure healthfulness in food supplies. Water is from the Brookwood springs, milk and cream from the club herd of tuberculin tested high grade cows. At the club farms are sanitary stables, and at the poultry farm trained experts use every precaution known to science in breeding, feeding, and care to secure the most perfect eggs. The club is not a public house. Some would find its peculiar features an annoyance. Those who like it are enthusiastic. Drives. Three main highways lead from Lake Placid, one toward the Saranac lakes and Paul Smith's on the west, one to the Cascade lakes, Keene Valley, Elizabethtown, and Westport on the east, and another toward the Wilmington Notch and Ausable River and Chasm on the northeast, with intermediate points reached in easy excursions. A place of historic intere^ is John Brown's grave at North Elba, it may be reached by an easy two-mile walk or drive. John Brown was born in Tornngton, Connedlicut, in 1800. He was of flurdy Puritan flock; both his grandfathers were captains in the Revolution. When John Brown was five years old his father removed to Ohio. The son grew to manhood there, follow- ing his father's occupation as a tanner and wool dealer. With varying fortunes he also lived in Pennsylvania and Massachusetts. An ardent abolitionifl he went in 1849 to settle on a trad of land in the Adirondaclcs on which the philanthropic, Gerrit Smith, had undertaken to establish a colony of freed slaves. At the time of the slavery diflurbances in Kansas he went there and took an adive part. He was a man of deep religious feeling and intense convidion, and his life was consecrated with burning zeal to the anti-slavery cause. He be- lieved that he was delegated by Heaven to do the work which he undertook. Wendell Phillips called him "a regular old Cromwellian dug up from two centuries." His character and worth are testified to by the confidence and resped in which he was held by men like Theodore Parker, Thomas Wentworth Higginson, and Gerrit Smith. In 1859 he matured a plan for starting a movement to liberate the slaves by force, and on October 1 6 he set his projed on foot by seizing the government arsenal at Harper's Ferry, Virginia. He was ac- companied by only thirteen white followers and five slaves. The next day he was taken prisoner by the government troops, ten of his companions being killed in the flruggle. He was tried, condemned to death, and hung at Charlestown, Virginia, December 2, 1859. Recklessly visionary, so far as immediate results were concerned, and destined to certain de- feat his plan appears to us; and yet the blow which he struck is acknowledged to have been of the greatest importance in its consequences and deserving to be reckoned among the causes of the downfall of slavery. After his death, his body was brought back to North Elba m accordance with his request and buried beside a huge rock, where he had previously chosen his last resting-place. Some years later steps were taken by Miss Kate Field and others to procure funds for the purchase of the old homestead, and in 1895, through Mr. Henry Clews, it was deeded to the State. [68] LAKE PLACID CAMPS CAMP SITES AND UiMIUPROVED PROPERTY >« ^ CHESTER D. MOSES & CO. LAKE PLACID, N.Y. 'HPO enjoy thoroughly the beau- tiful drives for which the Lake Placid region is renowned one must choose suitable vehi- cles and well trained horses. Runabouts, Traps, and Surreys — the kind that alw^ays return to the stable without mishap — can be obtained at the livery of BREWSTER C§i WARE, Lake Placid. The horses from this establishment are sturdy, reli- able, and good drivers. Brewster & Ware Lake Placid, N.Y. /« ivriting to ad'^'ertisen, please mention this book. [69] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS WESTPORT TO LAKE PLACID Lake Placid may be reached by carriage from Westport on the D. & H. Railroad and Lake Champlain. The trip may be made in either direction by stage or, with greater comfort, by private conveyance, which Bouquet River Co/>yrig/ii by Chester D . Moses &^ Company may be obtained at the Westport Inn Livery or from Brewster and Ware, Lake Placid. Trains at Westport are met daily by stages from Elizabeth- town (seven miles distant) ; fare, $ 1 .00. ElizabethtOWn is a secluded and quiet village on the border be- tween the cultivated region and the mountain wilderness. It is a place of restful beauty in a setting of rugged grandeur. Among the places at which summer visitors find entertainment are The Windsor and Deer's Head Inn. Stage daily, except Sunday, in both directions between Elizabethtown and Lake Placid (twenty-six miles) ; fare, $3.00 ; to Keene Center only, in either direction, $1.50. The drive from Elizabethtown to Lake Placid, together with the side drive from Keene Center to Keene Heights through the celebrated Keene Valley, affords a marvel of varied and glorious scenery. Elizabethtown lies in part on a plateau five hundred and fifty feet in altitude. At the western outskirts of the village, the road makes an immediate descent to the level of a [70] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS brook called The Branch, which just east of the valley unites with the Bouquet River. Leaving to the southwest the pyramid of Cobble Hill, the road continues to skirt along the brook, ascending in a generally west- ward direction for seven or eight miles. Just across the brook rise abruptly the steep sides of Knob Lock Mt. A little farther on, to the left and south, is the still higher peak of Tripod Mt. On the right lies Little Pitchoff, a spur of Hurricane Mt. Beyond these three peaks Baxter Mt. stands so near to the left that it shuts off what would otherwise be a delightful view in the direction of Keene Valley. At this point the road turns to the northeast, passing over the brow of what is locally called Spruce Hill, another spur of Hurricane Mt. Here the altitude is greater and commands a more distant view. To the south- west is Mt. Marcy; and nearer by, somewhat to the north of Marcy, lies Mount Porter. Other mountains and hills intervene and overlap each other, and finally, almost straight ahead — that is northwest — Mount White- face looms into view. Whiteface has such characteristic markings that the tourist soon learns to know it, and it seems like meeting an old friend when its familiar face shows itself at some favorable bend in the road. The country begins to show more signs of settlement as Keene Center is neared, and the openness allows a broader prospect. Much of the way thus far the roadside has been wooded, with only an occasional forlorn looking house. Some few miles before reaching Keene Center there is a turn to the left leading to Keene Valley, and a little way farther is a road turn- ing to the right that leads to Hurricane Lodge. If one is traveling by stage, he will keep on to Keene Center. This is a hamlet of a few houses, a small store or two, post office, telegraph office, church, and a hotel where the ^ages from Elizabethtown and Lake Placid stop for dinner, ($1.00). To the west is seen Cascade Notch and, somewhat to the north, the cone of Whiteface. Hurricane Lodge is perched on the side of Hurricane Mt., two and one-half miles away. A private cottage one mile east of the Lodge, at an altitude of two thousand four hundred feet, is said to be the most elevated abode in the Adirondacks. Another attraction of Hurricane Mountain is the Glenmore Summer School, established in 1 889 by Professor Thomas Davidson. Among the lecturers have been professors representing the universities of Harvard, Columbia, Yale, Cornell, Chicago, and Magill. About two miles northwest of Keene Center are Clifford Falls, on a tribu- tary of the Ausable. They can be reached by wagon road, and the fall of water, sixty feet, into a wild chasm is well worth seeing. If possible, the tourist should not pass Keene Center until he has taken a trip south to Keene Heights and the neighboring points of interest. Keene [71] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Kl IM \ AI 1-1 Co.''rn\/i/ I'V Chesft-r D. .!/.■ n/.a„y Center is at the foot of the Keene Valley. A good road follows up the east branch of the Ausable River five miles to the village of Keene Valley and four miles farther to Keene Heights, which is at the head of this charming valley. Keene Valley is a stretch of quiet, pastoral beauty surrounded by magnificent granite-capped mountains that rise abruptly on all sides. The land is somewhat cultivated, but a sufficient number of trees have been left in the wood-crowned knolls, clumps of evergreens, and graceful elms and maples along the river bank, to make an exquisite picture. There is a theory that a lake once filled this basin, and along the western side its beach is still pointed out. The facfl that the mountains rise so abruptly, instead of sloping gradually from the plain, indicates that the bot- tom of the valley was filled in and made level with sediment brought down from the mountains through long ages. Falls and chasms are many in this region, either on the Ausable or its tributaries of mountain streams. One-half mile south from Keene Center are Sherburne Falls on the Ausable near the main road. Their greatest height is about fifty feet. One and one-half miles farther to the south are Hulls Falls, also on the Ausable. Phelps Falls are situated on a brook near its entrance into the Ausable, just north of the village of Keene Valley. They are of interest firom being close to the former home of the noted guide, Orson S Phelps. From Prospect Hill near this place can be ob- tained one of the best views to be had in the valley. Leaving Prospect Hill behind, the traveler soon reaches the village of Keene Valley. Here are several comfortable hotels, of which The Crawford is one. The village is small, but contains a number of summer cottages. [72] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Not only here in the village, but all along the valley are desirable boarding houses. Keene Valley, although it has become a somevs'hat popular sum- mer resort, has since its early discovery by the painters, Messrs. T. S. Per- kins and R. M. Shurtleff, appealed more to artists and other lovers of nature than to those fond of fashion and display of wealth. Keene Valley is of considerable vv^idth in the northern part, but towards the south it narrows so that in places it seems scarcely wide enough for both the river and road. From the village of Keene Valley to the foot of Lower Ausable Lake runs a bicycle path. North of the village the road is excellent, so that it is pos- sible to wheel ten miles through this superb scenery. Four miles south of Keene Valley is Keene Heights, the plateau at the head of the valley. On this plateau, surrounded by mountains making a natural amphitheatre, stands St. Hubert's Inn, at an altitude of about 1 800 feet. The mountam scenery is almost Swiss-like in its grandeur and sublimity. St. Hubert's Inn stands in the midst of the principal Adiron- dack peaks. Directly to the east towers Giant Mt., down which comes Roaring Brook, which is noted for its falls. From a perpendicular granite wall the water leaps a distance of three hundred feet down so high a preci- pice that it breaks into sparkling drops before reaching the bottom, where it collects again to dash over rocks through a more gradual descent. These falls are only twenty rods from the road which leads from St. Hubert's to Port Henry. Only a mile farther on this road is Chapel Pond, up on the side of Giant Mt. Several hundred feet above this is a very small pond called Giant Washbowl. These are of interest on account of their wild, weird setting. The peak of Giant Mt. is of white rock, if it is lime- stone, it must have been formed there when the mountain was still under water in some past geologic age. The telegraph, telephone, and post office address of St. Hubert's Inn is Beede, New York, having received the name from the famous woodsman, Smith Beede, who once lived on the site. St. Hubert's Inn is not strictly a hotel, but a clubhouse belong- ing to the proprietors of the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, at the entrance to which the Inn stands. A tourist can get entertainment here for two days, on application to the superintendent, and for longer time on introduction by a club member. Stretching west and south from St. Hubert's Inn is the Adirondack Mountain Reserve of 26,000 acres. In it are Upper and Lower Ausable Lakes, both noted for their beauty, and many stately mountain peaks, in- cluding Noonmark near the eastern boundary, Bear Den, Dial, Nipple Top, and Colvin south of the river and lakes, and Haystack, Basin, Saddle- back, Gothic, Saw Teeth, Armstrong, and Wolf Jaws in the northern half, [73] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS £^«' *^-"^' Tdi.i KiiMi. AI)n^ll^ll\(K Mdinimn Risik\i C i;/i I tc/!f bv C/u stt> J I J/l' upanv while the western boundary includes the eastern slope of Mount Marcy. Many other high mountains are just outside the border. This region is the mountain section of the Adirondacks in distinction from the lake sections of the northwest and southwest. With Mount Marcy as a center, the peaks lie within a radius of ten miles. The association which owns the Adirondack Mountain Reserve has enacted strict laws for members and visitors, in order to preserve the virgin forest and to protect the fish and game. Visitors are very welcome, provided they conform to the regulations. By paying toll they may drive over the good private road from St. Hubert's to the foot of Lower Ausable Lake, a distance of about four miles. Under certain re- strictions as to camps and length of stay, and with authorized guides, they may use the trails and see all there is to see. The lakes and river lie in almost a straight line running northeast and southwest. The road follows the river rather closely and affords a most delightful woods drive. Near the foot of the Lower lake, and northwest of the outlet, is the beautiful Rainbow Falls on Rainbow Brook. At the falls proper the water descends vertically a distance of 125 to 140 feet. Lower Ausable Lake lies in a narrow pass between Colvin and Saw Teeth mountains, which rise so precipitously that foot passage along the [74] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS shores is extremely difficult, if not quite impossible. On the southwestern shore, near the foot of the lake, nature has carved high up on a projecting rock the features of a man ; this is called Indian Face. The beauty of this lake and its surroundings is weird and awe-inspiring. Upper Ausable Lake is quite the reverse, being mild and peaceful. Both of these lakes are about two miles in length and not over a half mile wide at the greatest expanse. The Lower lake is only a few rods wide. A trail a mile long leads near the connecting brook from the Lower to the Upper lake. Some consider the Upper lake the loveliest water of the Adirondacks. It is surrounded by a circle of mountains that overlap each other in charm- iag light and shade and descend gradually to the shores. The virgin forest on these slopes is still undisturbed. One of the ways of ascending Mount Marcy is reached from these lakes by boating up the inlet to Marcy Brook, whence a trail leads past Lake Tear-of-the-Clouds to the summit of Marcy. After taking this trip through Keene Valley, the tourist should return to Keene Center and drive to Lake Placid through sixteen miles of nature's beauties. The road passes to the north for a considerable distance from the village, leading up over a cleared hill from which is to be had a good view across the valley and up the slope of East Hill to Hurricane Lodge. East Hill is the name given to the western slope of Hurricane Mt. Then the road turns to the southwest through scenery growing more rugged until a narrow pass is reached, which is wild and weird in the extreme. Here lie the Cascade Lakes. The road skirts the lakes to the right, where there is scarcely room for it between the water and the precipitous wall of Mr. Pkktek riioiogyapk ty Chester D . Moses d^' CoinfiiDiy WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Pitchoff Mt., which rises abruptly from the shore. Just as abruptly on the opposite side tower the sheer rocks of Long Pond or Cascade Mt. These mountains are almost bare of vegetation. A scraggly cedar or a pin cherry tree has occasionally found root on a ledge or in a crevice. The Lower lake, which is the first one reached on this drive, is about a mile long and so narrow that it seems like a river. It is separated from the Upper lake by a strip of land only about eighteen rods wide, by which stands Cascade Lake House, facing the Cascade, which in the wet season pours over the face of Long Pond mountain, falling nearly a thousand feet. Beyond the lakes the road winds around the southern base of Pitchoff Mountain, turning somewhat gradually to a northern direction, until it meets the point where a turn to the right leads on the old road along the north- western side of Pitchoff Mountain. By turning here to the left, one soon drives directly west along an open plateau which reveals on the southern horizon a magnificent stretch of mountain scenery. This prospect is known as Ames Mountain View and is six miles from Lake Placid. Farthest to the east in the highest tier is Mount Marcy, then west of that lies Mount Colden, which has the appearance of having lost a slice from its western slope. One can Jalainly see what a deep, narrow gorge there is between Mount Colden and Mount Mclntyre, next at the west. In this gorge lies Avalanche Lake at an altitude of 2663 feet. It is a small lake, but very deep, and its water is very cold. It is separated from Lake Colden, which is a half mile farther south, by debris which at some time in the past came down from Mount Colden. These two lakes are in surroundings the wildest in the woods. Their outlet is the Opalescent River, which a little to the southwest joins the outlet of Lake Henderson and Lake Sanford and goes on to swell the east branch of the Hudson. The lakes in Avalanche Pass are not visible from the road, but there is plain indication of the notch where they lie. At the west of Mount Mclntyre tower the rocky cliffs of Wallface Mt., and even at this distant view, one can get some idea of the wildness and solemn majesty of Indian Pass, which lies between. Driving on, the post office of North Elba is soon reached. Here a road turns directly south and leads six miles to Heart Lake (Lake Clear). One can see the shadow of the depression where it lies just back of Mount Jo and at the foot of Mount Mclntyre. This lake belongs to Lake Placid Club. On its bank once stood Adirondack Lodge, but in the summer of 1903 a fire destroyed the Lodge and surrounding woods. Adirondack Lodge made a convenient stopping place on the way to the neighboring points of interest. The excellent trail from here still affords the easiest road to the summit of Mount Marcy, seven and one-half miles away. Mt. [76] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Avalanche Lake Photografih by Cnester 1). Moses e~ Coiiipniiy Marcy reaches an altitude of 5344 ft. and is the highest peak in the Adirondacks. There are also good trails from here to Avalanche Lake, Lake Golden, Mount Mclntyre, and to Indian Pass, and the deserted vil- lage of Upper Iron Works beyond. From the top of Mount Marcy one can descend to the southern side and reach the trail at Lake Tear-of-the- Clouds leading to the Ausable Lakes. No one should attempt these tramps without a competent guide. From the turn leading to Heart Lake it is only a little more than four miles to Lake Placid. [77] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS DELAWARE AND HUDSON RAILROAD ADIRONDACK DIVISION The Adirondack Division of the D. & H. leads from SARATOGA SPRINGS to North Creek. Most of the way it runs alongside the Hudson River, here a narrow stream. The scenery is not unlike that on the lower waters of this river. Partly cultivated, partly wooded hillsides and low mountains rise from the banks. The railroad traverses a semi- pastoral country through a succession of farms and small villages. At mo^ places boarders can find entertainment at modest rates. Had ley is the station of Lake Luzerne. This lake, which resembles in shape the lake of similar name in Switzerland, lies near the junction of the Hudson and Sacandaga rivers. It is a place of considerable beauty of a quiet sort. The surroundings are wooded, but not wild or rugged. The Wayside Inn is a commendable hotel. The Glen is picturesque and has some interesting drives. Near by are Friend's Lake and several places of entertainment. RIVERSIDE is the station from which to go to Schroon Lake and other places in that vicinity. Stage daily, except Sunday, to Chestertown (six miles; fare, seventy- five cents); to Brant Lake (twelve miles; fare, $1.25); to Schroon Lake landing (seven and one-half miles ; fare, $1.00). Steamer on Schroon Lake, 75 cents. Those traveling to Schroon Lake are carried by a four-horse coach that is more picturesque than comfortable. The road is one of the excellent new state highways. On the outward trip the stage stops for dinner at the hotel at Pottersville. Some carry a picnic lunch. Schroon Lake has the same kind of beauty as the region through which it is reached. The heights around have wooded slopes, with cleared and cultivated spaces. Beyond these the summits of higher mountains can be seen. The peak of Marcy is faintly visible. Going up the lake the steamer stops in succession at Watch Rock Hotel (Address, Adirondack), Taylor House (Address, Taylor's-on-Schroon), and Grove Point House (Address, Schroon Lake). The largest hotel at Schroon Lake village is the Leland House. The Ondawa House ($2 a day) furnishes good meals. Schroon Lake is an accessible, popular, and cosmopolitan resort. It is about nine miles long and one-half to two miles wide. Elevation, eight hundred and six feet. Stage daily, except Sunday, to Ticonderoga by way of Para- dox Lake (fare, $1.50). Chestertown is a village in a farming community. The Chester House is one of its hotels. Visitors to Brant Lake can be cared for at The Palisades and the Pebloe Hotel (address, Brant Lake). [78] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS From NORTH CREEK two roads lead into the heart of the mountains. Stage daily, except Sunday, to Indian Lake village (eighteen miles; fare, $1.25 — from Indian Lake village to Indian Lake, five miles; fare, fifty cents); to Blue Mt. Lake (twenty-nine miles; fare, $2). Stage, from North Creek daily, except Sunday, to Minerva, (eight and one-half miles ; fare, seventy-five cents) ; Minerva to Aiden Lair (eight miles ; fare, fifty cents); Minerva to Newcomb (twenty-seven miles ; fare, SI. 25). The region around Indian Lake is visited by those who are in search of the untamed wilderness. The lake, which a dam has caused to overflow, is now about ten miles in length. For persons who like to "rough it," there is here a chance for good hunting and fishing, along with seclusion and relaxation. There are hotels and boarding houses with prices to cor- respond to the varied quality of the accommodations. The road to Newcomb passes through country that has been settled more or less for a good many years. Much of the way things have a decrepit air. There are places not without attraction, however, where one desiring to rest and recuperate can get board for $5 a week and up- ward. Between Aiden Lair and Newcomb a road branches off to the preserve of the Tahawus Club, which holds the game privileges on ninety thousand acres belonging to the company that once conducted iron-working opera- tions in the region about the "Deserted Village" of Adirondack. This tract reaches to Upper Ausable Lake and Lake Colden. See pages 75 and 76. Camt Life By pcrmissioji of the Lake George Mirror [79] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS LAKE GEORGE Tnii Naukows, I>aki-; (Ikokc.k Hv pcriiiission of tin- Lake George Mirror The scenery of Lake George has a peculiar and characteristic charm. Its beauty is exquisite and refined. The mountains come close to the margin of the water, and the jutting headlands and many islands so break the view that a constantly changing scene meets the eye of the traveler. The grace- ful outlines of the various features of the landscape and the play of har- monious colors on lake and mountain side blend in a scene fair and en- chanting. The scenery of this lake is often compared to that of the Scottish Highlands, which it strongly resembles. The lake is thirty-two miles long and one to four miles wide. It contains over one hundred islands. The social life of Lake George is particularly enjoyable. It is character- ized by both exclusiveness and sociability. Young people find the gaiety attrac- tive. Outdoor sports, especially those of the water, are much indulged in. The name of Lake George is associated with important historic events. From a time before these it appears through a haze of fascinating legend and tradition. Father Jogues, a Jesuit missionary who suffered incredible hardships and finally martyrdom among the Indians, visited this place in 1 646. He arrived at the lake on the feflival of Corpus Christi, in commemo- ration of which he named it Lac St. Sacrement, Lake of the Blessed Sacrament. But this name, like "Honcon" used by James Femmore Cooper, has been supplanted by the ap- pellation bestowed by Sir William Johnson in honor of George 11, in 1755. In that same year General Johnson won a memorable victory over Baron Dieskau in the Battle of Lake George. In 1757 General Johnson was besieged by 8,000 French and Indians under General Montcalm at Fort William Henry, which he had erected near the head of the lake. The fort was forced to capitulate, and many of those who surrendered were massacred by the Indians, whom Montcalm was powerless to control. [80] FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL AT THE HEAD OF LAKE GEORGE. THE BEAUTIFUL. THE SOUTHERN PORTAL OF THE ADIRONDACKS. n One of the daintier and mo^ satisfactory of all the fine hotels of the northern sum- mer-resort region. Rehabilitated last season and now under the same general management as the Hotel Champlain on Lake Champlain. Appointments and service of the be^ modern type. All outdoor sports and attractions. New state road along the shore of Lake George. Well equipped new garage. Driving, motor boating, fishing, etc. J. F. WILSON, Manager, 243 Fifth Avenue, New York City After July IS, Fort William Henry Hotel, Lake George, New York /« writing to advertisers please mentio7i this book. [81] The Algonquin C Located amid the exquisite surroundings of the choicest scenery on Lake George. In front lies Bolton Bay fringed by islands, beyond which loom the mountains two thousand feet above the lake. ^ Ng Ng Ng A REFINED HOME-LIKE RESORT CThe Algonquin provides delight- ful opportunities for amusement and recreation. Boating is peculiar- ly attractive here. Bathing, fishing, tramping, and tennis are among the other popular enjoyments. ^ ^ Send for Ilhistrated Booklet. E. G. PENFIELD, BOLTON-ON-LAKE GEORGE, NEW YORK [821 WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS The Fort William Henry Hotel at the head (southern end) of the lake occupies the site of Fort William Henry. Its surroundings are full of historic interest, and the scenery is peculiarly attractive. An excep- tionally spacious veranda commands the outlook toward the Narrows eight miles away. This hotel was recently reconstructed at large outlay and is a thoroughly well appointed house of the first class. It is conducted by the Delaware & Hudson Company and is kept up to the highest standard. The interior finish is tasteful; the furnishings are carefully selected with a view to the comfort of the guests. A fine lawn sweeps down from the hotel to the lake. This hotel is immediately accessible by both boat and rail. It is an official hotel of the Automobile Club of America. The Algonquin is one of the less pretentious but enjoyable resorts of Lake George. It is located near Bolton, which is the center of much that is most attractive in the social life as well as of the scenery of the lake. Ken- sett's paintings, now in the Corcoran Art Gallery, were painted here. The Algonquin is a place of refined enjoyment and freedom from constraint. It stands on a shaded lawn, and there is a fine grove close by. It has a broad veranda ; the rooms are of good size and adequately furnished. There is a dark room for the use of amateur photographers. There are good sani- tary arrangements, including porcelain tubs and spray baths. The house is supplied with spring water. Rates $2 to $3 a day; $12 to $17 a week. Steamer on Lake Geok<;e By permission of the Lake George Mirror WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS LAKE CHAMPLAIN Lake Champlain has a combination of attractions which no other place in America offers. For yachting the conditions are perfect. The lake is one hundred and twenty miles long, with a coast line broken by inviting bays. One may cruise here for weeks continually visiting new scenes. The lake has the advantages of the seacoast without its drawbacks. There is no tide to reckon with, and the mountains are at such a distance that storms do not fall on the lake without warning. In the vicinity of Burlington there is a thirty-mile course the whole of which can be seen at one view. The scenery has a rare combination of attractive features. There is a wide sweep of water and hill and sky. The azure surface of the lake, resplendent in the sun and enlivened by sailboats and other craft, is a striking scene. Along the shores are stretches of green fields, cool woods, and sheltered coves. On the west the Adirondacks are the background of the picture. On the east the outlines of the Green Mts. melt in the soft haze of the distant horizon. The railroad ride along the shore of Lake Champlain is one of unusual variety of scenic interest. The road follows the winding shore, often pass- ing around curves where the locomotive can be seen by passengers in the rear coaches. On the one hand there is a wide outlook over the lake, on the other rocky ledges through which a path has been cleaved for the iron road, and again wooded hillsides and well tilled meadows. The historic associations of Lake Champlain add the final touch that gives it character and peculiar interest, its discovery by white men belongs to the period of the earhest set- tlement on the western hemisphere. Later some of the most dramatic events in American history were enacted on its shores. In 1609 Samuel de Champlain coming up the Richelieu River saw the lake for the first time that it was ever beheld by European eyes. His Algonquin followers fell in with a party of Mohawks, and the blood shed there was expi- ated only by more than a hundred years of the frightful atrocities of Indian warfare. Mo- hawk Rock near Burlington marked the boundary hne between the Algonquins and the Mohawks. Fort Ticonderoga was located at a point which the Indians called Che-on-de-ro-ga, a name with some reference to the rapids in the outlet of Lake George, whose music can be heard from this point. The French preserved the poetry of the suggestion in the name Fort Carillon, "The Chimes", which they gave the fortification that they erected here in 1755. In 1758 the English under General Abercrombie lost 2,000 men in a tragically un- successful attempt to capture it. In 1 759 General Amherst expelled the French. In 1 775 Ticonderoga was taken from the English in the dramatic exploit of Ethan Allen, and the next day Crown Point (built by the English near the sight of an earlier French fort) was also taken by the Americans. The battle of Plattsburg was also a memorable land and naval victory of the American side in the war of 1812. The ter-centenary of the discovery of Lake Champlain will be celebrated July 4-10, 1909. The French and English will participate. [84] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS DELAW^ARE AND HUDSON RAILROAD CHAMPLAIN DIVISION The traveler on the way north to LAKE GEORGE goes by way of Saratoga Springs and Fort Edward. On Lake George the two steam- ers, Horicon and Sagamore, each make the round trip between Lake George Landing and Baldwin daily. LAKE CHAMPLAIN is reached by rail at Whitehall; thence the road follows the lake (here comparatively narrow) until Fort Xicon- deroga station is reached, where connections are made for Lake George, about five miles distant. The crumbling ruins of the fort, reminiscent of heroic struggle and achievement, will appeal to every one who feels a thrill at the sight of such memorials of the historic past. From this point one may proceed north by train or, in a more leisurely fashion, on the steamer 'XJezmont of the Champlain Transportation Com- pany, which makes the trip to Plattsburg in a half day, stopping at the most important points on both sides of the lake. Larrabee's Point, on the eastern shore of the lake, furnishes attractions to summer visitors. Six miles north of Crown Point station, on a point which projects far into the lake, are the ruins of Fort Crown Point and vestiges of the earlier Fort St. Frederick of the French. The steamer lands at this point. There is a pavilion for the use of picnic parties. About two miles distant is the little village of Port Henry. At one of the most delightful spots is Westport. The location is ideal. The setting is idyllic and the outlook charming. The village ^ands on the rising slope of ground which sweeps up from the shore of North West Bay. It is an exceptionally healthful locality. The water supply comes from a spring that gushes from the depths of the rock high up on a mountain side at the rate of a million gallons a day. The village has a fine library, where entertainments are given during the summer. There are ex- cellent roads providing an interesting variety of rides and drives. This is the starting point for the excursion described on pages 70 to 77. Westport Inn can be unqualifiedly recommended. It stands in wide, well kept grounds, with majestic elms and stretches of green lawn sweeping down to the gravelly beach. The house is a tasteful structure of colonial design. It is of substantial construction and has a modern air. In- side it is bright, airy, and pleasant. The furnishings are comfortable and appropriate. The whole place has an air of distinction and refined hospi- tality. In the supply of material comforts nothing is overdone, but the service is eminently satisfactory. The management is courteous and atten- tive. Cultivated people find the surroundings and society congenial. [85] Westport Inn With superb outlook over Lake Champlain and at the Eastern Gateway of the Adirondacks. The unexcelled yachting, enjoyable rides and drives, the ex- cellent golf links and tennis courts, and the opportunities for fish- ing and bathing furnish the guests of Westport Inn the most com- plete diversity of recreation, and for each kind of sport the facilities are unsurpassed. Westport is only eight hours from New York via the Delaware & Hudson. Lake Champlain steamers land four times daily. Two small Reamers may be chartered for special excursions. Write for illustrated booklet. H. P. SMITH, Manager WESTPORT, N.Y. In ivriiing to advertisers please mention this book 186] HOTEL CHAMPLAIN AT THE PORTAL OF THE ADIRONDACKS "TPHIS superb summer hotel on Bluff Point, Lake Cliamplain, three miles south of Plattsburg, N.Y., is a great social center and observatory of fashionable life as well as one of the attractions of an Adirondack tour. Passengers desiring to change from rail to lake steamer or vice versa will find Hotel Cliamplain the most convenient transfer point. Here the world is fairest, the views vast and magnificent, the attractions multitudinous — a woodland park of 450 acres, a three- mile green drive eighteen-hole golf links, and all metropolitan luxuries. ^ ^ For plan of rooms, rates, etc.. address ROBERT MURRAY, Manai.ek, 243 Fiftli Avenue: after July 1st, Hotel (^hamplain, Clinton County, N.Y. Gkeen Dhive, HoiFi. Cha.mi'I.ain Park III '.I'rititig to advertisers please tnention this book- 1871 WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS From Port Kent an electric railroad runs to Keeseville, passing Ausable Chasm. This is an impressive rocky gorge in the Ausable River. It is about two miles in length. Rainbow Falls at its beginning are some seventy feet high, and here the river is over a hundred feet wide. The Basin marks the end of the chasm, here only twelve feet wide. Part of the way the water rushes through the channel with great force, but the trip is made with safety in boats managed by experienced guides. The walls of the gorge show the effect of erosion, but some great disruptive force in a past geologic age probably gave form to the main features. The walls are picturesquely rent and broken and in places covered with vegetation. Hotel Ausable Chasm ; The Cedars. Address, Ausable Chasm. Bluff Point is the Nation of the Hotel Champlain, one of the foremost hotels of all this region. The Nation is on the hotel grounds. These form an immense park in which are a forest, lawns, walks, golf course, and on the margin of the lake, a superb beach admirably adapted to bathing. The hotel stands on a high promontory overlooking Lake Champlain. It is an immense four-story structure of attractive design and substantial construction. Deep encircling verandas provide comfort and give a delightful outlook upon the scenery of the distant mountains and lake with its varied life. Owing to the elevation the air is clear, there is an ex- cellent water supply, and the sanitary arrangements are perfect. The hotel is run by the Delaware & Hudson Company and is maintained on a plane of exceptional excellence. This is an official hotel of the Automobile Club of America. Address, Hotel Champlain. Cliff Haven is the station of the Catholic Summer School of America. Plattsburg, a pleasant village of 8,000 inhabitants, is next reached. It is named after Zephaniah Piatt, who with others received a grant of land here in 1 784. It is located on Cumberland Bay, where the Battle of Plattsburg was fought in 1 8 1 4. A garrison of United States troops is now regularly stationed at the government barracks about a mile south of the village. Plattsburg is an enterprising place, well kept, busy, and with evi- dence of public spirit. It is the seat of a state normal school. One of the names long and honorably associated with this locality in the minds of the traveling public is that of the Fouquet House. It has a well established and enviable reputation. It is situated on high ground with plenty of air and a delightful view of the lake. It is a dignified three and one-half story structure. The rooms are high and large. The table is good. This is an attractive place to sojourn without losing ready con- nection with other places. The hotel is only a short distance from the rail- .>. ; [88] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS IFOUQUET house! j R.J. CLARK, PLATTSBURG, NEW YORK | .j. _. ._ . .+ road station and is therefore convenient for transient visitors. Rates $3 a day and upward; terms by the week on application. LAKE PLACID DIVISION The line to Lake Placid and that to Montreal diverge at Bluff Point. The Lake Champlain Division goes first through a country that is somewhat cultivated, but in the main is sparsely wooded and of desolate appearance, until Dannemora has been passed. Chazy Lake and Upper Chateaugay Lake are in attractive surroundings. The Dela- ware & Hudson Company has camp sites for sale, and permission will be granted to camp in certain places on application to the Company. Lyon Moun- tain is the station of Upper Chateaugay Lake. Here are Ralph's and other hotels. A steamer runs twelve miles through this lake and Lower Chateau- gay Lake (fare, 75 cents). The Lower Lake can be reached by an eight mile drive from Chateaugay on the Rutland Railroad. Near that station is Chateaugay Chasm. The railroad proceeds from Lyon Mt. to Loon Lake, in regard to which and other stations on the line of this road, see page 52 and following. [89] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS NE>V YORK CENTRAL LINES ST. LAWRENCE DIVISION From CARTHAGE one may go to Lake Bonaparte, inter- esting as the residence of Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Naples, during his exile in America. There is a hotel. The New Hermitage (address. Lake Bonaparte). Farther on, from Oswegatchie station, the traveler reaches Star Lake, a sheet of water of very attractive appearance, though not deeply wooded. Star Lake Inn (address, Oswegatchie). Wanakena, on the Inlet of Cranberry Lake, is reached by rail via Benson Mines. Hotel Wanakena (address, Wanakena). From this point a steamer carries passengers to points on Cranberry Lake. The name of the lake gives no inkling to its real character. It suggests low, swampy marsh lands, whereas the reality presents thickly wooded shores flanked by impressive mountains. Time was when the little red berry was found there, but its beds have long since been flooded into oblivion by the state dam at the head of the outlet. The result was a deep border of deadwood, which enhanced rather than detracted from the pe- culiar wild, wierd beauty of the place. Now that has for the most part fallen, or been cleared away, and all that remains of that watery labyrinth is here and there a choked up flow. Four miles from the lake is the track of the great Windfall of 1845, one-half mile wide, sweeping across the state to Lake George, still conspicuous in its second growth of scrub pine and shim- mering poplar. Cranberry Lake Inn (address, Cranberry Lake) ; Nunn's Inn (address, Wanakena). Cranberry Lake can also be reached by a forty-mile drive from Canton. On the road are the preserves of the Stillwater Club and the Deerlick Rapids Club. Canton is a pleasant college town, the seat of St. Lawrence University. It is situated on the Grass River. Rushton's "Indian Girl" canoes are manufactured there. Summer visitors can secure board at the Hodskin House and the American House, also in private fam- ilies where students board at other seasons. From Potsdam one may reach the following places, which have some attractiveness and afford entertainment at comparatively cheap rates: Sylvan Falls ( 1 7 miles) ; Sylvan Falls Hotel (address, Parishville). Joe Indian Pond (22 miles) ; Pinehurst Hotel (address, Parishville). Hollywood (30 miles); Hollywood Hotel (address, Hollywood). The last named place can also be reached from Piercefield. See page 43. Massena Springs has a sulphur spring with curative properties. [90] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS AUTOMOBILE ROUTES The entrances to the Great Wilderness were formerly stage routes, in fact some of them are to-day ; but during the past few years important changes have taken place. Railroads encircle and cross the region, branch- ing to reach famous hostelries or important industrial centers. The many water highways that are mysteriously woven throughout the woods will al- ways be popular with the canoeist. In addition to these the automobile is fa^ becoming a popular means of travel. It may be surprising to the uninitiated to know that highways over which cars run with perfect ease and safety reach practically every point commonly visited by tourists, and that though, of course, there are some steep hills to climb, the roadbed is as a rule better than that of the average country highway. The American Automobile Association and enterprising residents and summer visitors have contributed to the improvement of their condition. Some attractive trips are given below. This list does not make specific mention of all the stretches of good road in the Adirondacks, but before venturing on any route not named here, the automobili^ should in- vestigate carefully the character of the road in question and make sure of the reliability of his information. 1. Saratoga Springs to Schroon Lake. From Saratoga Springs to Lake George, via Wilton and Glens Falls, is an interesting run. [There is a fine road along the west shore of the lake, from Lake George to Bolton Landing.] Proceed from Lake George to Warrensburg, thence to Chestertown, and on arriving at Schroon Lake, follow the western shore of the lake by an excellent road to Schroon Lake village. Distance, sixty-five miles. From here connections may be made with Trip Number 2 at Ticon- deroga, with Number 3 at Schroon River, and with Number 4 at Elizabethtown. 2. Ticonderoga to Plattsburg. From Ticonderoga follow Lake Champlain by a hilly but fairly good road to Crown Point and Port Henry. At Westport connection is made with Number 4. At Wills- boro leave the lake for Ausable Chasm. From there go to Port Kent and again take the lake road, which is in excellent condition all the way to Plattsburg. DiSance, sixty-five miles. 3. Port Henry to Long Lake. This trip leads over a well beaten road, for it has long been a stage route. Port Henry to North Hudson and Schroon River, thence by Blueridge and Boreas River to * The Publisher acknowledges special obligation to Mr. E. G. Blankman, Publisher of Maps. [91] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS Tahawus. [Here a side trip over a comparatively nevs^ road to Hender- son Lake will repay the effort. This place is surrounded by the highest peaks of the Adirondacks. A trail leads to the top of Marcy.] From Tahawus to the thriving village of Newcomb, thence to Long Lake. Dis- tance, fifty-eight miles. One can cross the lake and go on to Long Lake West. 4. Westport to Lake Placid. A touring car will find plenty of work to make this trip. The road is excellent, and the scenery is superb, but the climbs are numerous and steep. From Elizabethtown to Keene one needs a careful chauffeur. Beyond Keene there is some sand, and the road goes up, up. Aside from these difficulties, the trip is one of the mo^ attractive in the Adirondacks. For detailed description see pages 70 to 77. Di^ance, thirty-five miles. 5. Port Kent to Keene Valley. One of the mo^ picturesque trips laid down on the map. Ausable Chasm is the first stopping place. On the north bank of the Ausable River are Keeseville, Clintonville, and Au- sable Forks. The ascent thence is one of constant surprises and pleasure. Jay, Upper Jay, and Keene are hamlets nestling between the river and the mountains and affording entertainment to summer visitors. Distance, thirty- two miles. 6. Plattsburg to Loon Lake. This route follows up the Saranac River through the villages of Cadyville, Saranac, and Redford, over an open country to Clayburg, thence through second growth timber to one of the prettiest sheets of water to be found — Loon Lake. The road is good and the scenery fine. Distance, fifty-four miles. From here, via Onchiota, it is possible to connect with Trips Numbers 7 and 8. 7. Lake Placid to Paul Smith's. From Lake Placid to Ray Brook, to Saranac Lake, to Harrietstown, to Gabriels, to Paul Smith's. A thoroughly good road and much frequented. Distance, thirty-five miles. 8. From Paul Smith's to Ogdensburg. From Paul Smith's, to McCollom's, to Meacham Lake, a sheet of water worth seeing. [From here one may go past Lake Duane, a very attractive place ; Moun- tain Pond, known as the home of big trout ; and Lake Titus to Malone. From this place there are moderately good highways east to Plattsburg and west to Ogdensburg.] The "Hopkinton and Port Kent Turnpike, " an old ^age route and good road runs past Everton to St. Regis Falls, thence to Nicholville and Hopkinton. From here one may go to Potsdam over a road fairly good but sandy in parts, thence to Canton and so to Ogdens- burg by a new state highway partly completed and to be finished in 1 909. Di^ance, eighty-five miles. [92] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS 9. Ogdensburg to Upper Saranac Lake. Go from Ogdens- burg through Canton to Potsdam; thence follow up the Raquette River to Hannawa Falls, an important water power. Expecting some heavy sand, proceed via Colton and South Colton, Hollywood, and Sevey to Gale. After pausing for a sight of Massawepie Lake, continue to Piercefield and Tupper Lake over a stretch that is charming on account not only of the condition of the road, but the mountain scenery. There is an admirable road from Tupper Lake to Wawbeek (see page 43), where the way turns aside to Hiawatha Lodge and Saranac Club. The road from Wawbeek to Saranac Inn runs through virgin forest along the shore of Upper Saranac Lake. The total distance from Ogdensburg is about ninety-five miles. From Saranac Inn there is an exceptionally fine road via Lake Clear to Paul Smith's, passing near Upper St. Regis Lake and its elaborate camps. Horseback riders are common in the vicinity of the latter. 10. Northville to Blue Mountain Lake. Northville is a distributing center for a large mountain territory. The road follows the shore of Sacandaga River to Wells and is moderately level and good. From Wells to Speculator the ascent is very steep, and in places the road- bed is narrow. The scenery is wild and rugged, and the views will repay the wear and tear of a good machine ; a poor one has no business here. From Speculator to Indian Lake the road in places is not very good, though passable. The scenery is decidedly wild and mountainous. At Jessup's River, Mason Lake, and Lewey Lake are satisfactory stopping places with plain but substantial bills of fare. From Indian Lake, a village with modern hotels, to Blue Mountain Lake the road is good. Distance, twenty-nine miles. IL Utica to Lake Pleasant. Go to Prospect and follow up the West Canada Creek, north side, to Nobleboro ; cross the river to Morehouseville and go to Piseco and the head of Piseco Lake, thence to Rudeston and Lake Pleasant, the county seat of Hamilton County. This route is one of the beS. From Hoffmeisters to Lake Pleasant the view is grand. The road is good. Di^ance, sixty-five miles. 12. Boonville to Eagle Bay. Go to Moose River, thence to Fulton chain. Old Forge, and up the north side of the chain of lakes to Eagle Bay; an excellent road. Di^ance, thirty miles. For a detailed description of Automobile Trips throiiKh the woods, the reader should consult the latest "Map of the Adirondacks" by E. G. Blankman, of Canton, N.Y.. whose publication will show all the roads, their condition, distances, etc. It is issued in pocket form and retails at $1.00 each. ^ ^ ^ ^ [93] WHERE TO GO IN THE ADIRONDACKS INDEX HOTELS Page Algonquin 82 Belmont 59, 63 Blue Mountain 35 Cumberland 96 Eagle Bay 28 Fort William Henry 8 1 Fouquet 88 Glenmore 38 Grand View 59, 61 Hiawatha Lodge 44 Hotel Champjain 88 Lakeside Inn 59, 63 Lake View Lodge 38 Paul Smith's 50 Ruisseaumont. 57, 64 Saranac Inn 48 Seventh Lake 30 Stevens 56, 62 The Pines 58, 63 Undercliff 58, 65 Westport Inn ' 85 PLACES Page Ausable Chasm 88 Big Moose 37 Bluff Point 88 Canton 90 Chestertown 78 Childwold 43 Clearwater 28 Elizabethtown 70 Fort Ticonderoga 85 Fulton Chain 26 Hadley 78 Keene Center 7 1 Keene Valley 72 Lake Clear Junction 50 Lake Placid 60 Long Lake West North Creek Old Forge Plattsburg Riverside Saranac Inn Saranac Lake The Glen Tupper Lake Junction Westport LAKES Avalanche Blue Mountain Bonaparte Brant Cascade Champlain Chazy Cranberry Fourth Fulton Chain George Indian Long Loon Lower Ausable Lower Saranac Luzerne Mirror Placid Rambow Raquette Schroon Seventh Star Upper Ausable Upper Chateaugay Upper Saranac 40 79 26 88 78 46 52 78 43 85 Page 76 34 90 78 75 84 89 90 28 27 80, 85 79 33 52 74 52 78 54 54 52 32 78 30 90 75 89 46 [94] PICTURESQUE Lake George SPRING BORN AND MOUNTAIN BOUND Unquestionably the "Queen of Atiterican Lakes. ' ' For Information as to Real Estate, Cottages, etc., you should read the Lake George Mirror. Sample copy free on re- quest, ^^i "t^ Lake George Mirror, Lake George, N.\'. 30] Cotrell&Leonard ALBANY, N.Y. Academic Gowns and Hoods n Pulpit Gowns j Choir Gowns C Judges' Gowns O 472-478 BROADWAY U lLl >\~^ ISAAC TEALL, Caterer, of Rochester, New York, says of Saratoga Vichy as a Cure for Stomach Troubles For over a year I suffered intensely with Stomach Trouble, and although a number of physicians had my case, none of them were able to give mc any relief. At last a personal friend of mine, who is a doctor, recom- mended SARATOGA VICHY W^ATER. A case was ordered of Mr. H. S. Jenner, general agent, of Rochester, and from that day to this I have not failed to drink from one to three bottles each day, with the re- sult that I can now eat anything I choose, and have gained over 25 lbs. I can conscientiously say I now have perfect health, which is entirely due to Saratoga Vichy Water. Respectfully yours, ISAAC TEALL, Caterer, 139 East Avenue, Rochester, N.Y. riling to advertisers please me'ition this book. [95] ^otel Ctimberlanii NEW YORK S. W. Cor. Broadway at 54th Street Near SOth St. Subway and S3d St. Elevated, and Accessible to all Surface lines. Ideal Location >, Near Theatres, Shops and Central Park NE^V AND FIREPROOF Strictly First Class Rates Reasonable All Hardwood Floors and Oriental Rugs European Plan Restaurant Unexcelled Prices Moderate Transient Rates, $2 50 with Bath, and Up; Special Rates for Permanent Guests Ten Minutes' Walk to Twenty Theatres SEND FOR BOOKLET HARRY P. STIMSON, Formerly with Hotel Imperial R. J. BINGHAM, Formerly with Hotel Woodward In zvriting; to aU'.'cytisei s pl^-iHt' incntioii i/iis Ivok. MB- 40. [96] l[ li H I I TO THE l^iJy BY THE ADIRONDACKS jjP^ PICTURESQUE DELAWARE & HUDSON RAILROAD ''*lShe Leading Touristy Line" -via Saratoga Springs and the shore of Lake Champlain, the Magnificent THROUGH PULLMANS FROM NEW YORK Cafe Cars -- Perfect Service — Unrivalled Scenery ^ During the summer, handsome large steamers on Lake George and Lake Champlain are operated in connection with faft trains on the D. & H. These lakes will be the Mecca of Tourists during the coming summer. The Ter-Centenary of the discovery of Lake Champlain will be celebrated with imposing ceremonies and brilliant pageants in which England and France will partici- pate July 4 to 1 0, 1 909. The finest one-day trip in America is by D. 6c H. R. R. to Saratoga Springs, thence through Lake George and Lake Champlain to Montreal or to the Adirondacks. Send Six cents postage for free copy of "A Summer Paradise," 300 page illustrated guide to Northern Resorts, colored maps, rates, hotel and boarding house directory ; one cent postage for large colored map of the lakes---time schedules. A. A. HEARD, Gen'l Passenger Agent - - ALBANY, N.Y. II II ir /« '.vriting to advertisers flense mention this book a . R 83 l!»Uu ADIRONDACKS Are most Conveniently Reached by the fast trains of the .. NEWYORK , (entralj ^ LINES ' 'AMERICA'S GREATEST RAILWAY SYSTEM' Sleeping and Parlor - Car service from New York during the entire year. During the summer season through Parlor and Sleeping-Cars from Buffalo, and Sleeping - Cars from Boston and Philadelphia, thus making the Adirondack Mountains quick and easy of access from all parts of the country. Dired connec- tions at Buffalo with trains from the west and southwest. We will gladly send you an itinerary of a trip from your home city to the Adirondack Mountains and return (side trips if you wish)— illustrated literature, maps, information on hotels and incidental expenses —and sum up the entire trip into an approximate coil. Address, New York Central Lines, Travel Bureau, Grand Central Station, New York, or La Salle Street Station, Chicago. .00 2:;^2^!2^2^^^^3ZJ2^^:;^J7J2^3 'b. 'o . I. * A ^. ^ "^v^O^ Y, ;tiv^ '^:.. 'Of ' ^^-'^^ 1^ . 1 » O w " ^\0 '^^ :o ^ ^.. .^ ■ .^M^^ ~'''«. .^^ .\ ° t.^^ V ;<» "o V*^ 0* * • • » « V* J' 'IT.' 0^ ^ -ol^^P!^ /% 4 C C^ o M ' ^O' ,c 4; '^^*' :,• *t '^v^^ A-' . OOBBSBROS. "'^"^^ai/' VV tl»»A(»y BINOINO * • , ■< - ' ST. ^AUGUSTINE ^^^ 32084