^h'iiM r^^. <^. '"' .-^q. ^^ ^•^^^ <\.^^f*%o'^ "V*^'*<^^^ "^^^^•'*/ V ^'^^X \^K*" 4-^^% ''^o^^*' 4.^^^"^ '^^^.^ ^ Digitized by tine Internet Arcinive in 2011 witin funding from The Library of Congress Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/smileyscookbooku01smil V m^^'s ouseljoldwui^e A COMPREHENSIVf: COLLECTION OF R to PES AND ISCrilL INFORMATION PKRTAfNINO TO EVERY DEPARTMENT, or HUUStKLEPiNG. CHICAQO; n\iley|ublis(^in^ ;|ompany, PUBLISHERS. •^ -yj ■^ COPYRIGHT 1894, BY J . B.SP/ILEY. COPYRIGHT UQS BY SMILEY F U BUSHING COM FA COPYRIGHT, 1896, BY SMILEY PUBLISHING COMPANY LL RIGHTS RESERVED. ^\j TO ALL THOSE I WHO ARE ENGAGED IN THE NOBLE WORK OF HOUSEKEEPING, THIS BOOK, Which is Designed to Help them In their Labors, is respectfully dedicated. 1 THIS BOOK Is sold by Subscription Only. Those desiring a copy, and not knowing any agents should write to the publishers. PREFACE. e)J^(s) HE following pages are the result of many years of experi- ment, investigation and study. We have aimed to prepare a work for the use of housekeepers on a more thorough and comprehensive plan than has been heretofore attempted. As the book is intended for the use of the average housekeeper, there is nothing in it which cannot be easily understood by any person of ordinary intelligence, for we have taken much pains to present the results of modern scientific investigations in a clear and simple way^ avoiding, as far as possible, the use of technical terms. Most of the household books in current use give the processes for doing things merely, with no attempt to explain the I'easons for the processes or the principles which underlie them. We also give, as clearly as possible, the most detailed directions in all our recipes, but we do not stop there, as we think any one can work more intelli- gently by understanding not only how to do a certain thing, but also ivhy it is done one way rather than another, and the principles which underlie the process. For this reason, throughout the work, we systematically explain principles as well as processes. We have long felt that a sad defect in most cook books is their utter failure to explain those simple, fundamental principles which every cook should, if possible, understand.' If these principles are once thoroughly understood the mystery and uncertainty of kitchen operations will vanish, and cooking will simply be adopting certain clearly under- stood methods to produce certain definite results, and success will always follow. For years we have been gathering material for this book, resulting in the accumulation of a great mass of recipes. These have been tested and culled, and in making selections our rule has been to choose those which were most simple and economical, because the book is primarily designed for the use of the masses, whose means are always limited, and we aim to meet their every day wants, although we present also an ample number of more elaborate recipes suitable for special occasions. Our endeavor has been to make the collection as complete and comprehensive as possible, and to give new, choice, and well-tested recipes in every department of house- hold cookery. 4 PKEFACE The "Time Tables for Cooking," and also the "Time to Cook" given with recipes throughout the book, will be very convenient and helpful to our readers and this is a feature which is lacking in most other cook books. Its preparation has cost us much labor. In the chapter on "Cake" we have adopted a new arrangement of the recipes, and used an exceptionally large and clear type which for practical kitchen use will be found a great convenience. The type used throughout the book is large, clear and new, and the ease with which it can be read will be appreciated by busy housewives. The colored plates and numerous illustrations with which the book is embellished have required much labor and expense, and they will make many of the subjects much clearer than any wholly verbal de- scription could possibly do. In preparing this work we have constantly had four main objects in view. (1) To secure the fullest, latest, and most reliable informa- tion possible on the subjects treated. (2) To explain processes and methods for saving time and labor, for the average housewife is sadly overworked and her time and strength are of the utmost value. (3) To select the best and most economical recipes; and (4) to point out ways to prevent waste. In the general department of household topics we present a more complete and systematic treatment of the various subjects connected with household management than can be found elsewhere, and the information therein contained will certainly be of great practical value to housekeepers. The effort of the editor has been to produce a thoroughly reliable and a plain and practical guide to housekeeping in all its branches, which no housewife can afford to do without. The book has not been written by any one individual, but many pens have been employed more or less in its preparation. The book will certainly shed much needed light on the problems which confront and often harass housekeepers, explain the funda- mental principles which underlie their work, and present a mass of recipes which will materially aid them in their labors. The Editor. ORDER OF DEPARTMENTS. Table Showing the Compar- ative Amount of Nutriment in Different Foods 7, 8 Table Showing the Compar- ativeAmount of Nutriment which 25 cents will Buy when Invested in Differ- ent Foods 9,10 Tables of Weights and Measures 11 to 18 Time Tables for Cook- ing 14 to 16 Table of Proportions . . 17 Altering Recipes 18 Intoxicating Liquors . . 18 Soups 19 to 47 Fish 48 to 81 Shellfish 82 to 94 Sauces for Fish, Shells Fish and Meats ... 95 to 110 Meats Ill to 164 Beef 127 to 135 Veal 135 to 140 Mutton and Lamb . 140 to 143 Pork 144 to 148 Poultry 148 to 158 Game 158 to 164 Cutting up and Curing Meats 165 to 175 Hash and Croquettes 176 to 183 Eggs 184 to 191 Milk, Butter and Cheese 192 to 203 Salads 203 to 215 Vegetables 216 to 255 Bread, Biscuit, etc. . . 256 to 294 Bread 256 to 272 Biscuit 273, 274 Buns, Rusks, Rolls, etc 274 to 277 Johnny Cakes, Pones, etc 277 to 279 Gems, Muffins, Scones, etc 280 to 283 Bread, Biscuit, etc. (Continued.) Griddle Cakes 283 to 285 Waffles 285 to 286 Mushes, etc 286 to 289 Toast 289, 290 Sandwiches 290 to 294 Pastry 295 to 314 Pies.... 300 to 311 Tarts .312 to 313 Shortcakes 313 to 314 Puddings and Dump- lings 315 to 337 Doughnuts and Frit- ters 338 to 345 Cake 346 to 408 Layer Cakes 359 to 372 Loaf Cakes 372 to 390 Frosting and Icing 391 to 398 Small Cakes, Cook- ies, Jumbles, Snaps, etc 398 to 408 Desserts 409 to 433 Ice Cream, Water Ices and Sherbets 434 to 446 Home Candy Making 457 to 463 Fruits and Nuts 464 to 487 Fresh Fruits and Nuts 465 to 473 Dried Fruits 473 to 476 Cooked Fruits. . . . .477 to 485 Compotes 485 to 487 Jams, Jellies, Marma- lades and Preserves 488 to 517 Jellies 491 to 496 Marmalades 496 to 499 Fruit Cheeses 499 to 500 Fruit Pastes 500 to 502 Jams 502 to 504 Preserves 505 to 517 Canning Fruits, Vege- tables, etc 518 to 529 Pickles, Catsups, Soys, etc 530 to 549 6 ORDEE OF DEPARTMENTS Pickles, Catsups, Soys, etc. (Continued.) Sour Pickles 531 to 540 Sweet Pickles 540 to 544 Spiced Fruit 544 to 545 Catsups and Soys. . 546 to 549 Vinegar. 550 to 553 Beverages 554 to 572 Syrups 570 to 572 Invalid Cookery 573 to 588 Foreign Cookery. . . .589 to 602 Picnics 608 Times When Foods are in Season .... 604 to 610 Bills of Fare 611 to 628 Garnishing Food. . . .629 to 634 Carving 635 to 648 The Table and Its Ap- pointments 649 to 669 Setting the Table. .649 to 657 Table Decorations . 659 to 663 Folding Napkins . . 663 to 669 Household Topics. . .670 to 874 The Kitchen, Pantry and Storeroom 671 to 676 Dishwashing 676 to 678 Knives and Forks. . . .678 to 679 Kettles and Vessels. .680 to 682 Refrigerators 682 to 683 Sinks and Drains .... 683 to 684 Cellars 684 to 686 The Ice = House and Ice 686 to 687 Wells, Cisterns and Water 688 to 694 Roofs, Doors, Walls, etc 694 tc 697 Housecleaning and Dusting 697 to 700 The Bedroom and Beds 700 to 702 Ventilation 702 to 704 Disinfectants and De- odorizers 704 to 711 Floors and Floor Cov- erings 711 to 723 Furniture ; . .723 to 731 Ivory, Stone, Rubber, etc 731 to 740 Glass, China, Earthen- ware, etc 741 to 746 Lamps, Matches, etc. 746 to 749 Metals and Metals ware 749 to 759 Stoves, Fires, Chim- , neys, etc 759 to 764 Paint, Varnish, White- wash, etc 764 to 768 Pictures and Frames . 801 to 804 Books and Paper. . . .805 to 810 Leather 810 to 814 Wooden ware 814 to 816 Feathers and Hair. . .816 to 818 Clothing and Cloth . .818 to 828 Gloves 822,823 Bonnets and Hats.. 824 to 826 Furs 826 to 828 To Remove Spots and Stains 828 to 837 Cements,Pastes,Glues, etc 837 to 843 Mucilage and Paste 841 to 843 Inks, Stamping Prep- arations, etc 843 to 846 A few Useful Articles 846 to 848 Insect Pests 848 to 856 The Laundry 857 to 874 Glossary 875 to 880 Index 881 to 916 TABLiE SHOWING THE COMPARATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTRIENTS IN DIFFER- ENT FOODS. The following table will show the comparative amount of nutrients, after evaporating the water, remaining in the edible portions of the more important articles of food, ■i.e., after removing the refuse, like bones, shell, skin, etc. The nutritive value of the different food-, and the elements of which they are composed, are explained more fully elsewhere, but this table will bring clearly before tlie eye, at a glance, the striking difference in the nutri- tive value of different foods. In vegetables, one of their great benefits to the system is de- rived from the potash and other salts which they contain, as we elsewhere explain, and these make little showing in a table like this, but the tahle will serve to give some idea of the value as food of different articles. There is a lamentable ignorance at the pi-esent time regarding the true value to the system of different articles of food, causing much loss, which is especially burdensome to poor people. Beef, Brisket of ■ Beef, Dried - Beef, Flank of - Beef, Flank, Corned.- Beef, Neck of - Beef, Ribsof - Beef, Shoulder of .. - Beef, Sirloin of ■ Beef, Round of — ■ Beef, Liver of ■ Beef, Heart of ■ Beef, Tongue of — • Veal, Shoulder of.. .« Mutton, Breast of .. .- Mutton, Flank of . . - Mutton, Leg of — - Mutton, Neck of... - Mutton, Shoulder of- Lamb, Leg of > Lamb, Loin of ■ Lamb, Neck of ■ Lamb, Shoulder of. . ■ Pork, Shoulder roast" Pork, fat, salt • Pork, smoked ham.." Sausage, Pork " Tripe, soused ■ Chicken ■ Turkey " Eggs, Hen's. " Bass, black • Blue Fish " Codfish, fresh. " Codfish, salt ■ Eel, salt water ■ Flounder - Haddock - Hp,ddock, smoked.. ." Halibut, fresh ■ Halibut, smoked - Herring, fresh ■ Mackerel, fresh - Mackerel, salted - Salmon, fresh. - Sardines, canned - Trout, brook " Whitefish - Clamis " Lobsters, fresh. ■ Oysters, fresh. ■ Shrimp ■ MEATS, ETC. FISH AND SHELL-FISH. () DAIRY PRODUCTS. Milk i^^— Butter ^^^^^mt^^^^^^^^^^^^^-m^^m Cheese, full cream... ^^"••^"^^^^^^^^^^^•^^^^^^^ Cheese, skim milk., .""^^i"—"™^^^^^^^^"^^^^^^^^ Oleomargarine b™™^^^— i«— ■— •— ^-^^-^— ■■-■ VEGETABLES. Asparagus ^"^ Beans, Lima, green. "^—"^i^"^"^^^^"^^ Beans, string, green.^^^^— Beans, dried ^-^— ^m^b^m^mmbb^^^mh^^^^^^™ Beets — ^^ Cabbage ^— ■ Carrots ^— "^ Cauliflower .<^^^^ Cucumber «^ Corn, sweet, green .— ^— ^^^ Corn, sweet, canned^^^™— ■■-—■■i—™^ EggPlant "^i— Lettuce ^^^ Onions ^-i^^^ Okra -^—i ^ Peas, green ^^-^^^— < Peas, dried __^,^^,,,,,,,,,,^_^,^^^^,^,^^„^^,^^^ Potatoes ■^— ^— — i Potatoes, sweet ^^— ^^■^^— «■■ Pumpkin —■■" Bice ^^Bi^WK ^■BK^maKMHMBB^^K Spinach i^^mm Squash ^■^^■■m Turnips ^^— Tomatoes —» • CEREALS, ETC. Barley, pearl ■■iBiMi«i«i«Bi««.Mi,Bi™H^^^^^^™^«iiM Flour, graham ^^^^^— ^■■— i^^^^^^^^— ^^ Flour, entire wheat. ^—"^^^^^^^■^■^"^"^^^^^^^ Flour, buckwheat., .^■—^^^^^^^■"■"—i^^^^^^—" Flour, rye ^^^^^^^^^™""^^^^^^^^^^™ Flour, wheat -ibb-— ■■— ^™i^^i««^^^^^^^^»^ Cornmeal ^■■— ■——■—^i^—^^^^-i""™™"— —ii—" Oatmeal ™ii«.^^™™i™iBi.««««B^ii™^^^^^«i.™ White hominy -"i"""-^^^^^^^^^^^— ■^^■■™— Buckwheat farina. . .— ^— ^^^^^^■^^■^■m^™— "^^m Bread, graham ^^>-i^^i»iiii-iBi^i^^^^^^^ai^— ^^ Bread, rye ^^^mt^m^m^^^^^^^m^^^^^mmmm^ Bread, wheat m^^^^^^^^mm^^^mi^im^^^i^^^ Boston crackers aiii^—^KiiBiaBi^B^BH^^^^H^KHBMH Graham, crackers m^^^^^mm^^^^^,^^^^mm,m^^^^^ Oatmeal crackers ^^^^-^i^^^— ^.^^^ FRUITS. Apples — ^»>^^— Bananas — BaB^^— wa^^^^^v Blackberries —"—^^ Cherries ^^—^n— CoCOanutS ^^i^^^^m^^^^^^mm^^^ Cranberries —i™^— ^ Grapes.. ^m^^_^b.^^^mb Lemons wh^^h Peaches ^^^^i—^ Pineapples ^^^^ Strawberries b^^im Watermelon bm^h Whortleberries i^^^^a^^^ Walnuts M^^^^M__i^_^^BBaMBBM (8) TABLE SHOWING THE COMPARATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTRIMENT WHICH 23 CENTS WILL BUY WHEN INVESTED IN DIFFERENT FOODS. The following table shows at a glance the comparative amount of nutriment which 25 cents will buy when invested in different foods at the ordinary retail prices in the city. In studying the table, however, the advantage of a variety in food should be borne in mind, as the fruits furnish the system with acids, and fresh vegetables furnish potash and other salts which are of the highest value. A thorough knowledge of the nutritive value of foods will enable many people to make a material saving in their household expenses. MEATS, ETC. Beef, brisket of . . . . ^^^^mmmm^^m,^^^m^^^^^ Beef, dried ^^^^ Beef.fiankof ' Beef, neck of ^^^.„_,^ Beef.ribsof ^^^^^^.^ Beef, shoulder of. . .__^^^_^ Beef, sirloin of _i,^^_ Beef, round of _^^^ Beef.liverof __^^^ Beef, heart of ^^_^^_,_,,„„„„«,,^,^_ Beef, tongue of ___^ Veal, shoulder of. . ._i__^_ Mutton, breast of . .__^^^^^^_^^^^^^^^^^^^_ Mutton, flank of. . . . _^^__^^„^^,^^_^^^^^^_^_ Mutton, leg of __,,^__ Mutton, neck of •■■■■■■^^Mi™^^^^^™. Mutton, loin of ____^_^ Mutton,shoulder of,^__^^^^ Lamb, leg of _^__ Lamb, loin of __i^_^_ Lamb, neck of m*^^m^^^^^ La,mb, shoulder of.,_^.___ Pork, fresh ^^_^,^^^^^^ Pork, fat, salt ^^^^^.^^m^^^^^mam^ Pork, smoked ham^^^^__ Sausage, pork ^^^^^^^.^^.^ Tripe, soused __ Chicken ^^^ Turkey _^___ Hen's Eggs, ^_^ FISH AND SHELL-FISH. Bass ,.„ Bluefish _^ Cod ^_ Eels ___ Flounder „__ Haddock .^_ Halibut ^^ Herring _.i_^_ Mackerel _^a_ Perch ^_ Pickerel _ Salmon ^ Shad ^ Smelts __ Swordfish ^ Trout _ "Whitefish _^ Clams _ Crabs _ Oysters _ Lobsters _^ Shrimp _ DAIKY PRODUCTS. Milk Butter Oleomargarine Cheese, full cream. Cheese, skim milk._^_^^_^ VEGETABLES. Asparagus _ Beans, lima, green. _ Beans, dried , Beets Cabbage Carrots Cauliflo-wer _ Cucumber , Corn, sweet, green. Lettuce Onions , Peas, green Peas, dried , Potatoes a Potatoes, sweet — . Punapkin _ Rhubarb Rice Spinach , Squash Turnips , Tomatoes _ Apples Bananas Blackberries.. Cherries Cranberries. .. Dates Grapes Lemons Pineapples Strawberries. . Watermelons CEREAL,S, ETC. Barley, pearl , Flour, graham , Flour, entire wheat. Flour, buckw^heat.. Flour, rye Flour, wheat Cornmeal _ Oatmeal , White hominy Buckwheat farina. _ Bread, graham _ Bread, rye _ Bread, wheat Boston crackers . . . , Graham crackers.. _ Oatmeal crackers.- 10 TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Notice. — The standard of measure which we have adopted in this book is the ordinary coffee cup, which holds \^ pint. Where not otherwise specified, we al- ways mean that by a cup. Of course the size of the cups and spoons in actual use vary somewhat, and extraordinary dampness or dryness of the materials will affect their weight, but these tables are as accurate as we can make them. In making up any recipe, using the same measure throughout will keep the proportions correct. Before measuring sugar, meal, flour, soda, salt and spices, they should be sifted. Materials like baking powder or mustard, which have been packed, should be stirred and crushed if you do not sift them. To get }^ a spoonful, fill the spoon, divide it through the center lengthwise, and use one=half. To get an even spoonful of any dry material, fill the spoon and level it off with a knife. A heaping spoonful is all it will hold. To get a spoon- ful, fill the spoon and shake it a little until it is slightly rounded on top. As a cup is smaller at the bottom than at the top, ^ a cup does not mean to fill it 3^ the way up, but a little more than that. The tin measuring cups holding J^ pint, and divided into fourths and thirds, are the best to use; they can be pur- chased at tin or hardware stores. Throughout the work, to save space, we drop off the "ful" in such words as "cupful," "tablespoonful," etc., and write simply "cup," "tablespoon," etc. We always mean full measure unless we add the word "heaping," or "scant." COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD. Almonds: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 ounces. Babley: — 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; I tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. Bbead ceumbs, grated: — 1 cup weighs 2 ounces. Butteb: — 1 even cup, hard or melted, weighs 7 ounces; 2/MHcups weigh 1 pound; a rounded tablespoon weighs 1 ounce; the "size of an egg " weighs 2 ounces. Citbon: — 1 cup of chopped weighs 7 ounces. Coffee, ground: — i cups weigh 1 pound; 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; 2 rounded tablespoons weigh 1 ounce. Cobnmeal: — 1 even cup weighs IJ^ ounces; a heaping tablespoon i^ ounce. Coen=staboh: — 1 cup weighs 5 ounces; a heaping tablespoon 3^ ounce; 3 cups equal 1 pound. Cubeants: — 1 cup, cleaned and dried, weighs 6 ounces. Dates: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. Eggs: — 10 eggs, average size (or 9 if very large) weigh 1 pound; 1 white of egg weighs about 1 ounce, and 1 yolk about 1 ounce. Figs: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. Floue (wheat, well sifted always): — 1 quart, heaped, weighs 1 pound; 1 cup, level, weighs 4 ounces, or 6 ounces when heaped; 4 cups equal 1 pound or 1 quart; 1 tablespoon, heaped, holds 1 ounce; 1 teaspoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. Lakd: — Same as butter. COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD -Continued Meat: — 1 solid cup of chopped meat weighs 8 ounces; a pint = l pound. Nutmegs: — 5 medium sized nutmegs weigh 1 ounce. Peitnes: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. Raisins: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound, or 8 ounces. Rice: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 1 tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. Salt: — A "pinch'' = l saltspoon. Sago: — Icup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 1 tablespoon', heaped, J^ ounce. Suet: — Same as butter. SuGAE, granulated, or dry brown: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 1 tablespoon, heaped, 1 ounce. Pow- dered sugar: — 23^ cups equal 1 lb. Tea: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 2 ounces: 1 tablespoon, heaped, weighs 34 ounce; 1 teaspoon, heaped, J^ ounce. Walnuts: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 ounces. LIQUIDS. Ceeam: — 1 cup holds 3^ pint and weighs 7 ounces. Milk: — 1 cup holds J^ pint and weighs 8 ounces. Molasses:—! cup holds 3^ pint and weighs 12 ounces. Vinegab: — 1 cup holds 3^ pint and weighs 8 ounces. Watee: — 1 cup holds 3^ pint and weighs 8 ounces; 2 cups weigh I pound. 11 MEASURING CUPS, ETC. Cup: — 1 cup holds 2 gills, or l^ pint, or 8 ounces of liquid; or 16 table- spoons of liquid; 4 cups of liquid equal 1 quart; i cups of flour equal 1 quart or 1 pound; 1 cup holds 4: ounces of coffee or 2 ounces of tea. Basting = SPOON : — 4 basting = spoons make 1 cupful; 1 basting=spoon equals 4 tablespoons or 8 tea- spoons. Saltbpoon: — 4 saltspoons of liquid equal 1 teaspoon. Tablespoon: — 1 tablespoon holds 3^ ounce of water; 8 tablespoons liquid make 1 gill; 16 tablespoons of liquid make 1 cupful; 12 table- spoons, or 8 heaping tablespoons, of dry material equal 1 cup; 4 tablespoons of liquid make 1 wineglass; 8 tablespoons of liquid make 1 gill; 2 rounded table- spoons equal 1 ounce of flour or cofifee; 1 tablespoon, heaped, holds 3^ ounce barley, cornmeal, corii= starch, ground spice, sago, sugar or coffee, and 3^ ounce of tea. Teaspoon: — 4 teaspoons of liquid equal 1 tablespoon; 3 teaspoons of dry material equal 1 tablespoon. 1 teaspoon holds 34 ounce of coffee and 3^ ounce of tea. A TUMBLES, common size, holds 3^ pint, or 8 fluid ounces, or 1 cup. A WINE GLASS, common size, holds 3^ gill, or 2 fluid ounces, or 3^ cup. AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 16 drams ( dr.) make 1 ounce (oz.). 16 ounces make 1 pound (lb.). 25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.). 4 quarters make 1 hundred weight (cwt.). 20 hundred weight make 1 ton (T.). LIQUID OR WINE MEASURE. 4 gills make 1 pint (pt.). 2 pints make 1 quart (qt.). 4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.). 313^ gallons make 1 barrel (bbl.). 63 gallons make 1 hogshead (hhd.). 2 hogsheads make 1 pipe or butt (pi.). DRY MEASURE. 2 pints make 1 quart. 8 quarts make 1 peck. 4 pecks make 1 bushel. .8 bushels make 1 quarter. CLOTH MEASURE. 234 inches make 1 nail. 4 nails make 34 yard. 4 quarters make 1 yard. 3 quarters make 1 Ell Flemish. 5 quarters make 1 Ell English. Cloth Measure is little used at pres- ent. In measuring goods sold by the yard, it is divided into halves, quart- ers, eighths and sixteenths. LINEAR MEASURE. 12 inches = l foot. 3 feet=l yard. b}/2 yards = l rod or pole. 40 rods— 1 furlong. 8 furlongs = 1 mile. 3 miles = 1 league. 3 barley=corns=l inch. 3 inches = 1 palm. 4 inches = l hand. 9 inches = l span. 21.888 inches=l sacred cubit. 18 inches=l English cubit. 11 feet = l great cubit. 6 feet = l fathom. 120 fathoms = 1 cable's length. 6086.7 feet=l knot. 3 feet = l pace. 1,152% common miles=l geographi- cal mile. 3 geographical miles=l league. 60 geographical miles = 1 degree. 360 degrees=the circumference of the globe. THE METRIC SYSTEM. Measures of Weights. 1 milligramme =0.015432 grains. 1 gramme=15.432 grains. 1 decagramme=0.022046 pounds. 1 hectogrammer=0.22046 pounds. 1 kilogramme = 2.2046 pounds. 1 myriagramme=22.046 pounds. Measures of Capacity, 1 millilitre=0.0610 cubic in.=338 fluid oz. 1 litre= 1.0567 quarts. 1 dekalitre = 2.6417 gallons. 1 kektolitre = 26.4175 gallons = 2.84 bushels. 1 kilolitre = 264.175 gallons = 2837 bushels. Measures of Length. 1 millimetre=0.03937 inch. 1 cetitimetre=0.3937 inch. 1 metre = 39.37 inch. 1 decametre = 32.809 feet. 1 hectometre=328.09 feet. 1 kilometre = .6213 mile. 1 myriametre=6.2138 mile. 12 MEDICINAL TERMS AND APOTHECA- RIES WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. . Measures. 60 mininiB (M) or drops = 1 fluidrachm 8 fluidrachins = l fluid ounce (/ $•) 16 fluid ounces=l pint (O.) 8 pints=l gallon (Cong.) Weights. 20 grains (gr. xx) = l scruple (3 or sc.) 3 scruples (3 iij) = l drachm (3 or dr.) 8 drachms (3 viij) = l ounce (§ or oz.) 12 ounces (| xij) = l pound (Bb.) Physicians in writing prescriptions use the Roman numerals instead of figures, but the small letters only, which they precede by the symbols. They write j for i when it terminates a number. Thus § vij means 7 ounces, 3 xiv means 14 scruples, etc. R is an abbreviation for recipe, or take; P fov particula, or little part; q. s. quan- tity sufficient; P. aaq. for equal parts; q. p. as much as you please; gr. for grain; ss. for semi; d, aa. for equal quantities; ii for 2; gtt is a drop; Cong, is an abbreviation of congius, the latin for gallon; O. for octarius, the latin for one=eighth. The minim is equal to a drop of water; & pint of water weighs a pound. MISCELLANEOUS TABLES COMPRISING VARIOUS THINGS WORTH KNOWING. Counting. — 12 units make a dozen; 12 dozen make a gross; 12 gross make a great gross. 20 units make a score. Papeb. — 24 sheets make 1 quire; 20 quires make 1 ream; 2 reams make 1 bundle. Books. — A sheet of paper folded in two leaves makes a folio or 4 pages; in 4 leaves a quarto, 4 to, or 8 pages; in 8 leaves an octavo, 8 vo, or 16 pages; in 12 leaves, a duodecimo, 12 mo, or 24 pages; in 16 leaves, a 16 mo, or 32 pages; in 18 leaves an 18 mo, or 36 pages. These terms are applied without regard to the size of the sheet folded, which may vary widely. MISCELLANEOUS TABLES (Continued.) Apples, dried, a bushel=:22 to 28 lbs.* Apples, green, a bushel = 50 Ibs.j" Beets, a bushel=50 to 60 lbs.* Barley, a bushel=48 lbs."]" Beans, a bushel=60 lbs.* Bran, a bushel=20 lbs. Buckwheat, a bushel=40 to 52 lbs.* Butter, a firkin = 56 lbs. Carrots, a bushel=50 to 55 lbs.* Charcoal, a bushel=22 lbs. Clover seed, a bushel = 60 lbs. Corn, a bushel, shelled=56 lbs."!" Corn, a bushel, unshefled^TO or 68 lbs.* Cornmeal, a bushel = 48 Ibs.f Cranberries, a bushel=33 lbs."!" Feathers, a bale = about 1 cwt. Flaxseed, a bushel=56 lbs. Fish, a quintal = 100 lbs. Fish, a barrel=200 lbs. Flour, a barrel=196 lbs. Hempseed, a bushel=44 lbs. Hickorysnuts, a bushel=60 lbs. Honey, a gal]on = 12 lbs. Meat, a stone=80 lbs. Molasses, a hogshead=130 to 150 gals.* Oats, a bushel= 32 ibs.t Onions, a bushel=48 to 57 lbs.* Parsnips, a bushel = 155 lbs."j" Peaches, dried, a bushel=28 to 33 lbs.* Peas, dried, a bushel=60 lbs. Peas, in pod, a bushel=32 lbs.* Popcorn, a bushel=70 lbs. Potatoes, a bushel=60 lbs. Potatoes, sweet, a bushel=50 lbs.* Pork, a barrel=200 lbs. Rice, a barrel=600 lbs. Raisins, a barrel=112 lbs. Rye, a bushel=56 lbs. Salt, a barrel=280 lbs. Salt, a bushel = 70 lbs. Soap, a barrel = 256 lbs. Soap, a box = 56 lbs. Sugar, a barrel=200 to 250 lbs.* Tea, a chest = 60 to 84 lbs.* Timothy seed, a bushel=45 Ibs.f Tobacco, a hhd. = 168 lbs. Turnips, a bushel=55 lbs."}" Wheat, a bushel=60 lbs. Wood, a tod=28 lbs. ■f" In most states, but varies. * Varying in different states. DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. Coal produces 1000" F.; wood (hard) 800° to 900° ; charcoal (ordinary) 700° ; charcoal (willow) 600°. 18 TIME TABLES FOR COOKING. TIME TO COOK MEATS. Beef, brisket of, boiled gently, about 30 minutes per lb. Beef, corned, boiled gently, about 31 minutes per lb. Beef, fillet of, rare, in moderate oven, f to 1 hour. Beef, rib-roast, rolled, rare, in moderate oven, 10 minutes per lb. Beef, sirloin, roasted in oven, rather underdone, 9 minutes per lb. Mutton, leg of, roasted, rather rare, 10 minutes per lb. Mutton, loin of, roasted, rare, 9 minutes per lb. Mutton, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. Mutton, shoulder, stuffed, roasted, well done, 16 minutes per lb. Mutton, leg of, boiled, gently, 17 minutes per lb. Veal, fillet of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. Veal, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 17 minutes per lb. Veal, shoulder, stuffed, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. Pork, leg of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. Pork, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 18 minutes per lb. Pork, shoulder of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. Liver, roasted, well done, in moderate oven, about 2 hours. Bacon, boiled gently, 15 minutes per lb. Ham, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. Tripe, boiled, nearly 5 hours. Meat for bouillon, simmer gently, 35 minutes per lb. Tongue, salted, boiled, 3 to 4 hours. TIME TO COOK POULTKY, ETC. Chicken, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. Chicken, roasted in oven, 20 minutes per lb. Duck, baked in hot oven, 20 to 30 minutes. Duck, roasted, full growth, f to 1 hour; duckling 25 to 35 minutes. Fowl, old, boil gently, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. Fowl, old, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. Goose, roast, 1 to If hours, according to size. Grouse, roasted in oven, 30 to 35 minutes. Partridge, roasted in oven, 25 to 35 minutes. -Pigeons, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes. Prairie Chicken, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. Quail, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. Rabbit, roasted in oven, ^ to f hour. Turkey, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. Turkey, roasted in oven, 3 hours for an 8 lb. turkey. Venison, haunch of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. Venison, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. TIME TO COOK VEGETABLES. Artichokes, globe, boiled, ^ to 1 hour, according to age, etc, " Jerusalem, boiled, ^ to ^ hour, according to size. Asparagus, boiled, 15 to 25 minutes. Beans, shelled, boiled, 1 hour or more according to age. Beans, shelled, baked, 8 to 10 hours in moderate oven. 14 TIME TO COOK VEGETABLES— (Continued.) Beans, string, boiled, 1 to 3 hours, according to age, etc. Beans, boiled, if young, about 1 hour; if old 2 to 4 hours. Brocoli, boiled, about ^ hour. Brussels sprouts, boiled, 10 to 20 minutes. Cabbage, winter, 1 hour or more ; young, quartered, ^ to f hour ; sliced ^ hour. Carrots, boiled, if young ^ to ^ hour; old, whole, 1 hour or more. Cauliflower, boiled, 15 to 35 minutes. Celery, boiled, ^ hour. Corn, green, boiled, 20 to 25 minutes. Cucumbers, boiled, 12 to 15 minutes. Endive, stewed, 5 to 10 minutes. Kohlrabi, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. Lentiles, boiled, 2 hours or more. Lettuce, steamed, 10 or 15 minutes. Mushrooms, stewed, about ^ hour. Okra, boiled, ^ hour or more. Onions, boiled, if young ^ to 1 hour; if old 2 hours or more. Parsnips, boiled, if small ^ to 1 hour; large, 1 to 1| hours. Peas, green, boiled, ^ hour or more, according to age, etc. Potatoes, boiled, 25 to 35 minutes. Potatoes, baked, f to 1 hour. Sweet potatoes, boiled, f to 1 hour. Sweet potatoes, baked, 1 to 1^ hours. Pumpkin, stewed, 4 to 5 hours. Salsify, boiled, about 1 hour. Sea^kale, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. Sorrel, scalded, 10 to 15 minutes. Spinach, covered closely, about 1 hour. Squash, boiled, 20 to 30 minutes. Squash, baked, about 1 hour. Tomatoes, baked, ^ to f hour. Tomatoes, stewed, -J to f hour. Turnips, boiled, if young 15 to 20 minutes; if old | to 1^ hours. Yams, boiled, f to 1 hour. TIME TO BAKE. Beans, 8 to 10 hours. Beef, sirloin, rare, 8 to 10 minutes per lb. Beef, sirloin, well done, 12 to 15 minutes per lb. Beef, long or short fillet, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. Beef, rolled rib or rump, 12 to 15 minutes per lb. Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes. Bread, brick loaf, 40 to 60 minutes. Cake, thin, 15 to 20 minutes; thick, 30 to 40 minutes; fruit, 2 to 3 hours. Cake, sponge, 45 to 60 minutes. Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs., 1 to 1^ hours. Cookies, 10 to 15 minutes. Custards, 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Duck, tame, 40 to 60 minutes. Fish, 6 to 8 lbs., 1 hour. 15 TIME TO BAKE— (Continued.) Gingerbread, 20 to 30 minutes. Graham Gems, -| hour. Lamb, well done, 15 minutes per lb. Mutton, rare, 10 minutes per lb. — well done 16 minutes per lb. Pies, ^ to f hour Pork, well done, 30 minutes per lb. Potatoes, 25 to 40 minutes, according to age etc. Pudding, — bread, rice and tapioca, f to 1 hour. Pudding, — plum, 2 to 3 hours. Rolls, 10 to 15 minutes. Turkey, 8 lbs., 3 hours. Veal, well done, 20 minutes per lb." TIME TO BROIL. Chickens, about 20 minutes. Chops, 8 minutes. Steak, 4 to 8 minutes. Fish, 5 to 15 minutes. TIME TO FRY. Bacon, 3 to 5 minutes. Breaded chops, 4 to 6 minutes. Croquettes, 1 to 2 minutes. Doughnuts, 3 to 5 minutes. Fish balls, 1 minute. Fritters, 3 to 5 minutes. Muffins, 3 to 5 minutes. Small fish, 1 to 3 minutes. Smelts, 1 minute. 16 TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. Baking Powder. — For bread, use 4 even teaspoons to 1 quart of flour, or 1 teaspoon to each cup of flour. Cake, made light with eggs, needs less. Batters. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid to each full cup of flour. Bread. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid for 3 full cups of flour. Cake. — For plain cake use 1 saltspoon of spice and 1 teaspoon of eoc- ii'act for each loaf of usual size, and 1 teaspoon baking powder to 2 cups flour. For sponge cake use 1 saltspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of extract to 1 ordinary sized loaf. Cream of Tartar. — Use 2 full teaspoons to 1 level teaspoon of soda. Custards. — Use 1 teaspoon of extract for 1 quart of custard, and 1 saltspoon of salt to 4 cups of milk. Extract. — Use 1 teaspoon to each loaf of plain or sponge cake, or to 1 quart of custard. Herbs. — In soup, use for flavoring 1 teaspoon of mixed herbs to each quart ofsoup. Liquids. — For bread use 1 scant cup to 3 full cups flour; for muffins use the same for 2 full cups flour; for batters use the same for 1 full cup flour. Muffins. — Use 1 scant cup liquid for three full cups flour. Pepper. — Use 1 saltspoon of white pepper to 1 quart of soup stock. Salt. — Use 1 teaspoon to 2 quarts of flour, or to 1 quart of soup stock. Use 1 saltspoon to 1 quart of milk in custards, or to 1 loaf of sponge cake. Soda. — Use 1 even teaspoon to 2 full teaspoons of cream of tartar; use 1 teaspoon soda to 1 cup molasses, or 2 cups sour milk. Soup. — In soup stock use 1 tablespoon of each chopped vegetable, 1 teaspoon of mixed herbs, 4 cloves, 4 pepper-corns, 1 teaspoon of salt, or 1 saltspoon of white pepper to each quart of stock. For each pound of meat and bone use 1 quart of water. Spice. — Use 1 saltspoon of any kind for 1 loaf of cake. Yeast. — For each 2 cups of liquid used in bread, etc., use 1 cup liquid yeast, or ^ of a yeast cake. 1 cup of liquid yeast is equal to ^ cake of compressed yeast. 17 ALTEKING KECIPES. In order to be sure of the result, care should be taken in meas- uring all the ingredients, to use the exact quantities called for in a recipe, but if all the ingredients are changed in the same proportion (as for example, using twice as much, or ^ or f as much of each one) the result will not be affected. As has been well said by the author of " Quick Cooking," however, except in those cases like the cooking of meat and vegetables, the baking of bread, etc., where definite chemical laws apply (which cannot be violated without loss) the rules of cooking are not absolute and unchangeable. The large class of materials combined for producing flavors (as in soups, etc.) can be varied indefinitely, according to convenience and the materials at hand. Whenever you get hold of a recipe calling for numerous ar- ticles for flavoring, some of which you do not have, you can often use the recipe, putting in the flavorings you do have, or substituting others for those you lack, and still produce a very good dish, although it will, of course, be a new one — or, if not judiciously done, it may not be so good! Those who have mastered the principles of cookery and acquired a little experience can devise many new and excellent recipes. INTOXICATING LIQUOKS. In all recipes contained in the department of cookery, which ad- vised the use of intoxicating liquors, we have substituted fruit juices — often using orange or lemon juice. Nothing can excel the unfer- mented juices of fruits as a flavoring, or for giving a desirable pi- quancy to various dishes. They make an almost perfect substitutute for liquors, and for obvious reasons are much safer for family use. Fruit juice can be easily substituted for liquor in any recipe by those who desire to do so. In fruit cake, ^ cup or 10 tablespoons of .mo- lasses is equal to 1 wine glass of brandy or other liquor. Those so disposed can substitute molasses for liquor in this way in any such recipe found in books, magazines or newspapers; a cake- thus made will be quite as good as though the liquor was used. As the alcohol evaporates in baking, however, liquors are not so objectionable in cakes as in sauces. 18 SOUPS. OUPS are of 2 kinds; the heavy, rich soups, made from stock prepared the day before, with the addition of other ingre- [£J dients on the day of serving, and plain soups, made entirely in the morning before dinner. These latter will, no doubt, be more useful for ordinary occasions, being lighter, and quite as palatable, and they certainly are more economical than those made from stock. Soups are made by cooking meat, fish or vegetables in water or milk, and they are seasoned with a great variety of flavorings. If you see a recipe calling for a great variety of ingredients, many of which you do not have, you will find that you can often use what ingredients you do have and still produce a very good soup, as many of the ingredients can be omitted without much loss — it will simply change the flavor a little. Remember that the 2 important points with soups are, (1) their nutritive properties, which are extracted from the meat, fish, etc., and (2) the flavoring derived from herbs, spices, etc., added for that purpose. Some soups will contain a good deal of nourishment and others very little; some will be very highly and others only slightly flavored. The names are often given to soups because of their principal ingredients, as with "Beef," "Chicken," "Potato," or "Cabbage Soup," and sometimes because of the color, as "White," or "Brown Soup," while often they are purely fanciful. By bearing these things in mind, and by studying the principles involved in extract- ing the nutritive properties from the fish or meat, the inexperienced cook can soon master the mysteries of soup making, and she can then easily make new and appetizing combinations for herself. . The Utensils Used — The soup^kettle or stock^pot for an ordinary family should hold from 6 quarts to 2 gallons. The allowance of soup for each person is a half pint, and unless the family is very large, a kettle of this size will give ample room for a full supply, after straining from the soup material. The best kettle is made of aluminum, and iron is next, and if kept scrupulously clean (as all cooking utensils should be) it will not discolor the soup. If any- thing should happen to turn color in it, there is nothing harmful in the oxide of iron, whereas, some articles of food are made poisonous if prepared in brass, copper, or lead, especially acid foods, if allowed 19 20 SOUPS to stand in those vessels. The soup=kettle should be high in propor- tion to the size, as only a small surface in contact with the hot range is needed for the long, slow simmering required in the preparation of soups. A kettle of that form takes less room on the range, and when dinner is being prepared, this is desirable. Other utensils used in the preparation of soups are, 1 coarse and 1 fine colander, and 2 or 3 squares of cheese=cloth for strainers. The cloth strainer should be boiled in water with a little cooking=soda added. If boiled in soap, the odor is apt to remain in the cloth, giving a bad flavor to the soup. The Principles Involved in Soup Making. — Many cooks have little idea of the principles involved in extracting the nutritive properties from meat, but they are quite simple, and are as follows:* Fibre, fat, gelatine and albumen, with extractives and salts (to which some writers give the name of osmazome), are the component parts of all meats. Fibres swell up and soften when subjected to the action of hot water. They are a valuable and nourishing food, but are insolu- ble in water, and constitute nearly all that remains of meat after long boiling. Fat is dissolved by boiling, but as it is contained in cells covered by a very fine membrane which never dissolves, a portion of it always adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the sur- face of the stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which were not whole, or which have burst by boiling. Fat is also added to thickened soups, where it combines with starch and does not rise to the surface. The gelatine is soluble in water, and is the basis and nutritious portion of soup stock. It is the gelatine which, when enough of it is present, causes the stock to become a jelly when cold. Albumen surrounds the fibres of meat in its soluble state, just as it exists in an unboiled egg. It is soluble in cold or tepid water, but it begins to coagulate at 145° and sets into a jelly at 160°, for which reason it is evident that if the water is boiling when the meat is put in, or if it is afterwards made to boil up quickly, the albumen will harden, and will form a thin case or shell which will prevent the gel- atine and osmazome from dissolving, and the result will be a thin *Count Rumford, writing of his experiments in feeding the Bavarian army, says: "I constantly found that the richness or quality of a soup depended more upon the proper choice of the ingredients, and the proper management of the fire in the combination of these ingredients, than upon the quantity of solid nutritious matter employed; much more upon the art and skill of the cook than upon the sums laid out in the market." To which we may add, that the poor suffer more from, the common lack of skill than the rich, be- cause they are least able to bear the losses it entails, and therefore we say, that to no class is a clear understanding of the principles of cookery so im- portant as to the poor. SOUPS 21 and tasteless stock. Albumen partially dissolved, makes the cloudy appearance of soup and jelly; coagulated albumen is removed as scum. Scum is wasted food. It is well also to know that the size of the piece of meat affects the solubility of the albumen, as the part farthest from the surface will receive enough heat to be coagulated before it is dissolved, if the piece is large. The extractives and salts (osmazome) are soluble in water, cold or hot, and they give flavor and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals contains more .than that of young ones, and brown meats contain more than white and make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat, a portion is converted to caramel; thefore, by putting the remains of roast meats in the stock-pot a better flavor is obtained. Choose lean rather than fat meat for soup. See also what we say elsewhere about the princi- ples involved in cooking meats. • Bones are composed of ossein, a gelatinous, fatty fluid some- thing like marrow, and an earthy substance, to which they owe their solidity. As much gelatinous matter is contained in 2 oz. of bone as in 1 lb. of meat, but it is so incased in the earthy substance, that usu- ally only the surface is dissolved in boiling water; when the bones are broken, there are more surfaces, and more gelatinous matter is dissolved; and by reducing the bones to powder, all the gelatinous matter can be obtained. Long continued boiling is, therefore, needed for bones, aud this boiling should continue until the earthy matter is full of little empty holes where the gelatinous matter once was, and until the bone has lost ^ of its weight. They should boil for days rather than hours. The best way to break bones is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding a little water from time to time to prevent their heating. It is a great saving to thus utilize bones which are often entirely wasted. If the bones are finely broken, tie them up in a bag and put them in the stock=pot. Now gelatine forms the basis of stocks, but although nourishing, it is without taste, and so stock made entirely of it, is not liked. Flavoring and salts are needed to make it palatable, and when meat and vegetables are add- ed to the cooking bones, they make the stock savory. Stock. — When meat is used solely to make stock, cut it into very small pieces, put it into cold water, and heat very slowly; but if you wish to have stock and a piece of savory meat also, choose the fresh- est meat, and have it cut as thick as possible, for if it is a thin, flat piece, if will not look well, and will be soon spoiled by the boiling. It is impossible, however, to have first rate stock and good boiled meat at the same time, as the two objects are diametrically opposed. 22 SOUPS As it extracts all the juices from the surface of meat to wash it, that should never be done unless it is absolutely necessary. Add cold water, and put the stock^pot on a gentle fire and heat it gradually. The albumen wijl dissolve if it is never heated above 160°, and will not coagulate, but as, in this state, it is much lighter than water, it will rise to the surface, and this is what makes the scum. The ris- ing of the hardened albumen {scum) has the same effect in clarify- ing stock as the white of eggs (which is albumen) and, as a rule, it may be said, that the more scum there is, the clearer the stock will be. If you want clear stock, remove the scum when it rises thickly. Do not let the stock boil fast, because- then part of the scum will be dissolved and another part will go to the bottom, thus making it difficult to obtain a clear broth. Always try to have the fire very regular, as.then it will not be necessary to add cold water in order to make the scum rise ; but if the fire is too warm at first, that will be necessary. If fried onions are added to stock, tie them in a bag, as they may cloud it without tliis precaution. Generally speaking, the longer the stock simmers, the better it will be. Removing Fat. — The English and Americans prefer soup with the fat removed; it has become the fashion and the fat is thought to look badly, but the fat is food, and quite nutritious. The common people on the continent prefer their soup covered with "eyes" (fat). The scum is coagulated albumen, and if clean meat was used, the scum will not be objectionable; it is certainly nutritious, and to throw it away is clear waste. Its presence is not noticable in thickened soups as it is mingled in and hidden by the other ingredients. Those who want clear soups can easily make them, but it is well to understand that they are less nutritious than others. In invalid cookery the fat is removed because the stomach is then weak, and often not able to digest it, but with healthy people the case is different. When it is desired to remove the fat, soup can be allowed to stand until next day, and it can then all be taken off; then the soup can be re=warmed. Or any surplus fat on the surface of soup may be removed (after skimming off as much as possible with a spoon) by drawing a piece of blotting paper across it, which will remove all the remaining fat. Or to take fat from soups, sauces, etc., thor- oughly wet a cloth with cold water and pour the stock through it; the coldness of the cloth will coagulate the fat, which will collect on the cloth; repeat if necessary; if any particles of fat remain, take them off V7\i\\ blotting paper as above. The fat on the cloth can be removed and clarified, and is good for many purposes. SOUPS 23 Flavorings. — Add vegetables used for flavoring about an hour before serving soup; that is, do not add them until the juices are nearly extracted from the meat. Wash and pare the vegetables, cut them into small pieces, and keep them in cold water until ready to add them to the soup. They can be first blanched or parboiled if very strong or old. If desired, a part or all of the vegetables can be fried before being added to the soup; potatoes, cabbages and onions are better for being boiled in separate water before being added. Pars- ley, summer savory and celery are also often used; onions and garlic we speak of in a following paragraph. Some cooks occasionally use cloves, basil, bay leaf, nutmeg, etc. For a variety, try a little caraway seed in potato soup. Just before serving, add the salt and pepper. Sweet Basil is a tender annual, a native of Asia. The leaves and leafy tops are highly aromatic, and their basil. flavor resembles that of cloves. It is much used in French cookery, but not much by English or American cooks. The flavoring of all food is an important matter and should never be slighted. For soups and stews the best rule is to combine several flavors without having any one of them too prominent. As boiling spoils the flavor of wines and catsups, if they are added, it should not be until just before serving. Unless the soup is to be thick, no flavor should be added, but if some of the meat and vegetables used are fried, it will improve the color and flavor, but be sure nothing, either meat or vegetable, is added, which will have the taste of being smoked or burnt. Great richness may often be given to soups by the addition of fried cucumbers. Cut off celery leaves, dry them, and put them in a tin can, and you will have them the year round to flavor soups. Using Onions. — Onions, garlic and shallot are disliked by so many people, that, in making stock, or any of the quickly made soups, it is better to leave them out; but as many people consider soup flavor- less without those vegetables, a dish of stewed onions, garlic or shal- lot may be cooked separately, and on serving it, a little can be added to the soup given to those who like such flavors. In this way, soup either with or without onions can be served from the same tureen. Onion juice for flavoring can easily be obtained by peeling and mincing an onion and squeezing it in an ordinary lemon squeezer, or cheese-cloth. The odor can be removed from the squeezer and knife by washing them in cold water. 24 SOUPS Tne Chive is a plant belonging to the same family as the leek and onion, being the smallest of the onion tribe. Its properties are similar to the onion, and it is used like that in soups, sauces, salads, etc., but it is much stronger, and only about ^ as much is needed. The Shallot, Shalot ok Eschalot is a native of Pales- tine. It was introduced into Europe by the Crusaders. It belongs to the same family as the common onion, but its fla- vor is stronger, and it does not leave an unpleasant odor behind. The leaves of the plant may be cut while growing, and used like young onions. It is used for high flavored soups' and gravies, and is excellent when pickled. Shallot vinegar is used for flavoring soups, sauces, hashes, etc. RooAMBOLE is ofteu called Spanish Shallot, and belongs to the order Liliacce. It is very similar to garlic, but is milder. Broth can be changed and often improved in fla- shallot. vor by using 2 or 3 kinds of meat at the same time; for example, with beef a little liver can be added, or with veal a piece of ham. For seasoning, salt, whole and ground pepper, both black and white, cayenne, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace and cinnamon should be ready. Whole pepper is always used for white soups, as ground pepper makes them look dusty. As herbs and spices are more easily removed from soup, by straining, when whole than when ground, it is better to use them whole. Be chary of seasoning and spices. A little of these things will go a long way. But a very little sugar judiciously added will often be found to greatly improve the flavor. Never indulge over freely in onion or shallot in soups. The condiments should not be added until just before the simmering is completed, in any soup, as they will harden the meat etc., with which they come in contact. Hints.— When the meat, vegetables, etc., are put in the kettle add what water will be needed, as it will injure the flavor of soup to add more afterwards. If too much salt is added by mistake, its taste may be modified by adding 2 or 3 teaspoons of vinegar; its acid will partially neu- tralize the alkaline salt; then add a little sugar to mask the taste of the vinegar. No further general directions will be needed for making soups, as special directions accompany each recipe. The experienced cook can vary the rules according to the tastes of her family, while the novice in cookery will find the best results by adhering strictly to the recipes as given, as they have been tested and found good. STOCK FOR SOUP. All meat and bones, scraps and trimmings, used in making stock, SOUPS 25 or plain soup, must be perfectly fresh, for the least taint in the meat is sure to spoil stock or soup. Soft water is also required, as this ex- tracts the juices from the meat, and gelatine from the bones, much better than hard water. The proportion of meat and water for stock is about 1 pound of meat, bones and trimmings, for 2 quarts of water. The slow boiling does not much reduce the quantity, but a little boil- ing water may be added from time to time if any appreciable quanti- ty has evaporated. When the meat separates from the bones, it can be taken out and used in making various side dishes found under the head of " Meats " — the bones remaining longer for the extraction of gelatine. Mutton, lamb and pork are not good for stock, as the flavor of the former is unpleasant when re-cooked, and pork is too oily to use in this way, although many cooks do use ham bones in soups. Beef makes the best stock, as the flesh of mature animals contains more osmazome; an old fowl is a great addition to stock. Veal alone makes a fine white stock, but not so savory. Bones ought always to form a component part in the soup=kettle when making stock, and they should be finely broken, in order to extract all the gelatine. Watch the stock-pot until it is ready to boil, then carefully take off all the scum as fast as it rises. When thoroughly skimmed, set back on the range where it will just simmer — do not boil rapidly as this hardens the albumen. It may be kept simmering on a gas or kerosene stove, if fire is not needed for other purposes. Stock while cooking should not be tightly covered. A sieve should be placed over the kettle to keep out flies, but close covering prevents the stock from being clear. The vegetables used in making stock, are turnips, carrots, onions or garlic and celery. The meat should slowly cook 4 or 5 hours, and the vegetables the last hour, as vegetables should only be added in time to become thoroughly done when used in any soup; then strain it through the cloth strainer (called by foreign cooks a "tammy") into a tin pail, or deep tin pan, as it cools more quickly in tin than in any other vessel. The pail or pan must be entirely tinned, for if the tin is off the vessel, the stock may be discolored by standing in con- tact with iron; — the salt in the soup will attack the iron, and cause rust. While boiling, the salt does not attack the kettle unless it is new and rough, because, after using a smooth kettle for a while, the pores of the iron become filled with the fat of the meats cooked in it. Place the tin containing the stock in an airy place, in the shade, where it will cool as quickly as possible, and cover it with a sieve to keep out the flies. When it is cooled, place it uncovered in the ice 26 SOUPS chest for the fat to rise. The stock should be a firm jelly and will keep for a week in the ice chest. The next day after making it, the fat can all be removed from the top of the stock, and used in cooking vegetables. Wipe the top of the stock with a dry cloth, and then with a little cloth wet with extract of cloves to prevent its molding. For ordinary cooking, especially in hot weather, it is better to make stock one day, for the soup of the following day, rather than take the risk of having it mold or sour. Remember that it must be cooled as quickly as possible without other covering than a sieve, which facilitates the escape of steam, and consequently the cooling of the stock, and at the same time keeps out the flies. If tightly cov- ered, and the stock is a long time in cooling, it will ferment and sour, when it becomes poisonous. If only beginning to turn, it is said that it may be restored by tying some charcoal in a bag, putting it in the stock, and then boiling it. STOCK NO. 1. 2 lbs. shin of beef well broken. 1 head of celery. 2 lbs. knuckle of veal. 4 whole cloves. 1 gallon cold water. 1 teaspoon of broken white pepper. 1 large onion. 1 teaspoon of sugar caramel. 3 carrots. 1 blade of mace, or a little nutmeg, 1 turnip. 1 soup bunch; salt. STOCK NO. 2. 1 old fowl. 2 carrots. 4 lbs. veal bones well broken. 1 turnip. 1 gallon of cold water. Salt and pepper. 2 onions. Cloves and herbs. STOCK NO. 3. 4 lbs, beef shin-bones, broken. 3 large carrots. 1 chicken. 1 turnip. 1 gallon cold water. Salt and pepper. 3 large onions. Cloves and herbs. VEAL OR WHITE STOCK. Wipe 4 lbs, knuckle of veal, break the bones, put it into one gal- lon of cold water, heat slowly, and simmer 4 hours, skimming well; then add 1 stalk of celery, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf and 1 tablespoon salt, and simmer 1 hour longer. It should jelly when cold, and the fat can easily be taken ofp. It can be melted for use and strained through cheese=cloth, or flannel, or clarified with egg if necessary and it is wanted very clear. SOUPS 27 FISH STOCK. Never throw away the water in which fish has been boiled; it is valuable for making fish sauce, and also cheap fish soups — {soup maigre). Therefore, in boiling fish, or any meats whatever, when the broth is, or may be wanted for stock, be careful about putting in too much salt. Salt in quantity is not needed for boiling fish — only a little to harden it, and the sauce served with it can contain more if liked. Many kinds of fish, after boiling in just sufficient water to cover them, will leave the broth a hard jelly when it is cold: This of course contains nourishment, and the next day can be utilized for a fine soup, by adding the bones and remnants of the boiled fish with additional seasoning and vegetables. Stock, to Clear or Clarify. — For each quart of jellied stock, the whites of 2 eggs are required; melt the stock and let it get steaming hot, but not boiling; beat the whites of 2 eggs, with the shells which have been washed and well crushed, and stir into the hot stock, then let it come to the boiling point; set it back on the range and simmer 15 minutes; strain through a flannel bag; keep returning it through the bag until it runs through bright and clear. In cold weather this operation must be near the fire to keep the jelly from setting. The bag must be made of fine, thin, new flannel, and well scalded in hot water containing a teaspoon of borax, or cooking soda, Never use soap in cleaning the bag, or other strainers used in making soups or gravies, as the odor of the soap will affect the flavor of the soups. Clearing stock extracts the flavor and nutrition, and is not necessary for every^day soups, besides being too expen- sive, as well as consuming too much time. The every^day soup only needs straining and the removal of superfluous fat. To Clarify Soup, when desired, beat the white of an egg with a small cup of cold water and add to the soup; simmer for 10 minutes, and then strain through the " tammy," or cloth strainer. Hints. — Even very weak stock is much better than water to use for soups and gravies, vegetable stock being better than none. White stock is made of veal, and of bones which have been boiled once or contain only gelatine. The best stock is obtained from the freshest meat. Soup meat if not boiled too long, can, after cooling, be finely chopped, seasoned to taste, and heated again with a piece of butter. If not moist enough, 1 or 2 spoonfuls from the soup-kettle may be added. This will make a delicious side dish, or nice breakfast dish the next mornine:. 28 SOUPS If a good soup is served (which can be made of the cheapest cuts of meat) with bread, it is almost a meal in itself. Then the meat can be served as bouilli, or minced and made delicious by judi- cious seasoning and flavoring — it is much less expensive than the heavy and costly large joints. French cookery is proverbially inex- pensive, and it is equally renowned for its delicacy. In France just this rule of cookery is most often followed. But it should be remem- bered that the French do not cook the soup until all the osmazome and nutrients are extracted from the meat. If cooked until all the nutrients are extracted from the fibres, .they will be of little value, as needed fibre can be obtained more cheaply in other ways, than to attempt to make them palatable by adding the other ingredients necessary. Coloring for Soups — Amber Color. — The favorite color for soups is caramel or scorched sugar (not burned). This not only gives the soup a fine amber color but imparts a fine flavor to it. Vegetables sliced thin and fried in a very little butter till nicely browned, and then put into the soup kettle, will impart an amber color. — Brown. Onions fried a dark brown, will, in addition to caramel, give a brown color. Many cooks fry a few slices of the soup meat a dark brown before the simmering process is begun. — Green. Pounded spinach and puree of young green peas color soups green. — Golden Color. Saffron will give soups a fine golden color — only a very little is needed. — Red. Tomatoes, lobster coral, well pounded, and cochi- neal will impart a red color. Pot=marigold, leaves, stems and flowers are used by the French to color and flavor soups. Lobster Butter — Take lobster coral (not the little red eggs that cling to the outside of the lobster, but the red lumps inside when it is cut open down to the tail); wash it carefully, removing every mor- sel of the flesh or green part, as that may turn it after it is made. Add a little butter and pound it in a mortar — the less butter used the better, but it must be pounded until perfectly smooth and free from grit; then add a little cayenne pepper and nutmeg, which will pre- serve it. About half flU jelly glasses with it, set it in the oven till thoroughly hot, press it down, pour on a little melted parafine or clarified butter, and tie on paper. ADDITIONS TO SOUPS. Quenelles or Force^Meat, Croutons and Nudels or Noodles are additions to soup used by foreign cooks. Curry-powder and various sauces are also used for flavoring rich soups for banquets and dinners for cere- mony, and can be used, if liked, in the preparation of side dishes SOUPS 29 made from soup=meat, in warming the remains of boiled and roasted meat. CROUTONS (pronounced kru-tons'). — These are bits of bread cut in small diamonds, squares, cubes, or in fanciful shapes. They are fried brown in butter, and used in soups, and as a garnish for side dishes and entrees of meat. FORCEMEAT OR QUENELLES (pronounced kee -nells.)— This is made of equal parts of bread-crumbs, beef^suet, and any kind of raw meat excepting mutton, lamb, or pork. Poultry and game make excellent force=meat, but veal is most commonly used. The suet and meat must first be cut finely, then chopped, and lastly pounded to a paste in a mortar, with a little salt, pepper and any pulverized herbs, if liked. To 1 pound of meat and 1 of suet, allow 4 eggs. Beat the eggs thoroughly and mix with the paste, and work through a wire sieve or fine colander to take out any fibers that may remain in the meat; to the strained mixture add the bread-crumbs which have been previ- ously dried, pulverized and sifted; then take up the mixture in a tea- spoon, and with another teaspoon form and smooth the quenelles in shape like a small egg; they are then dropped in boiling water for ten min- utes to poach. When a soup is to [ | ^Uj0^ fobming quenelles. be served with them, place them in the tureen, and pour the hot soup over them. Another way to pre- pare force=meat balls is to shape the above mixture into balls the size of marbles, and fry in boiling fat until a light brown. SUET DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP.— Take 3 cups sifted flour, sift in 8 teaspoons baking powder, and then rub in well 1 cup of finely chopped suet; add 1 teaspoon of salt, and enough sweet milk to make as stiff as biscuit dough ; then form it into balls about the size of oranges, flour them well, and f hour before serving the soup, put them in it; the cover should not be taken off, and to make them nice they should boil steadily until ready to serve. They make a kind of pot^pie. NOODLES OR NUDELS — To 1 egg add a little salt, and flour to make a stiff paste. Roll out as thin as a wafer, then roll up as you 30 SOUPS would jelly=cake. Slice off the end in fine strings, shake out loosely and cook in the soup for 10 minutes before taking it up; or the dough may be rolled out a little thicker than pie=crust, and cut in rounds with a tiny biscuit cutter; or it may be divided in 2, then 4, then 8 parts, and so on until the pieces are the size of a gooseberry when rolled in the hand. Roll, and boil them in the soup for 15 minutes before taking it up. The German nudels are made much the same as this, but they use no salt, as that, they think, makes them sticky when cooked. SOUP=BLJNCH. — This is a bunch of young onions or leeks, car- rots, and various herbs to be found in the market in most large places, such as green sage, thyme, marjoram etc.; celery=tops are sometimes included. The onions, carrots and other vegetables can be cut in pieces for the soup, but the herbs are best folded, in thin muslin and taken out after 10 minutes simmering in the soup. SOUP^BOQUET. — A boquet of herbs for flavoring soups and sauces is much used by foreign cooks, and is made of a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, celery leaves, 1 or 2 leaves of sage and a bay leaf. This may be folded in a small square of tarlatan or other thin cloth, and wound with a thread. This can be put in the soup for a little time, and all removed without trouble when the soup is served. THICKENING FOR SOUP.— Clear soup may be thickened with a little corn-starch, and still preserve its transparency. For brown soups, browned flour is much better than the raw for thickening. Put into a small sauce=pan ^ lb. of butter and when hot, stir into it 2 cups of flour. Stir this over the fire till it is pale brown, taking care that it does not burn. One large tablespoonful thickens a quart of soup. Flour, arrowroot, bread=crumbs, sago, rice, oatmeal, barley, macaroni and vermicelli are all put into soup to thicken it. They all have this in common, that the soup must actually boil to burst the starch granules after they are added. Floury substances must be mixed smooth with a little cold water, milk or broth, before being added to the bulk of the broth. Eggs, when added, should be beaten, mixed with a little of the warm liquid, strained into the soup, and not afterwards allowed to boil, lest they harden in tiny lumps, or what is popularly called " curdle." The yolk is better to use than the white. " Body " may be given to soup by adding a little cold potato, grated, and mashed potato is sometimes added, mixed smooth with a Itttle milk. Flour can be cooked in a little butter and then SOUPS 31 added, which is probably better than first mixing it in cold water as above. Barley, when added, should be soaked over night, and then stirred in an hour before the soup is done. With rice, use 1 table- spoon to 1 quart of soup, and add it about 30 minutes before it is done. Farina can be sprinkled in a short time before serving, allow- ing it to boil a little while. CARAMEL FOR SOUP. — Put a teaspoon of sugar in a frying= pan and place on the stove; let it dissolve and brown, but not burn. When it has turned a bright golden color and begins to smoke, add water enough to cover the bottom of the pan; let it boil up and dis- solve the caramel; then pour into the soup for coloring and flavor. This is not to be used in any white soup. If you have prepared caramel on hand, use that. See our recipe given elsewhere for pre- paring it. BROWNED CRACKERS — These are a fine addition to soups, and with tea or coffee are good for invalids. The crackers are first split and a little butter spread on the halves; they are then placed on a baking tin, with the split and buttered side up; set them in a hot oven, on the top shelf, and they are done when of a delicate yellow- ish brown. They need watching very closely, to prevent scorching. They are delicious with soups, fish chowder and oyster stews. EQQ=BALLS FOR SOUP — Powder some hard-boiled yolks of egg, and add sufiicient raw yolk to make the mixture into a paste that can be rolled; add some pepper, salt, a little finely chopped pars- ley, and a "suspicion" of nutmeg; roll into balls the size of marbles. Dip the balls into flour and throw them into boiling water till they are set; then drain them and throw them into the soup before serv- ing. They can also be used to garnish entrees. VIRGINIA FLAVORING — Take thyme, mint, sweet marjoram, and rosemary gathered in full perfection; pick from the stalks, put them in a large jar, pour on strong vinegar, and let stand 24 hours; then take out the herbs, throw in fresh bunches, and do this 3 times; then strain the liquor, put it in bottles, cork and seal tight. Do not let the herbs stay in more than 24 hours at one time, else a bitter, unsavory taste may be imparted. What is wanted, is just the deli- cate first flavor which comes from steeping the herbs in the liquid, It makes a delicious flavor for soups and sauces. 32 VEGETABLE SOUPS VEGETABLE SOUPS. ALMOND SOUP— Blanch and pound finely 1 pound of sweet almonds, and the yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs; beat these well togeth- er, and add to a gallon of hot stock; let it come to boiling and stir constantly; thicken with bits of butter rolled in flour, and just before serving, add salt to taste, and a coffee cup of rich cream. Have the whites of the eggs cut in small pieces in the tureen, pour over it the hot soup and serve. Time, 20 minutes. ASPARAGUS SOUP — Break off all that is tender from a bundle of fresh, green asparagus, and put this in a large pan, with a large handful of freshly gathered spinach, 1 of parsley, and the same of spring onions. Wash in 2 waters and drain in a sieve; then boil in 2 quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt. As soon as the asparagus is done, rub all through a fine colander and return to the pot; then add a piece of butter the size of a small egg (cut in bits and rolled in flour), a teaspoon of sugar, and a sprinkle of white pepper. Serve hot with croutons. Time, \ hour. BARLEY SOUP. — Scald 10 tablespoons of pearled barley; drain, cover with fresh boiling water, and boil 3 hours. Scald a quart of rich, sweet milk and add to the barley when done. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of 10 eggs to a foam and put in the soup- tureen; pour over, the barley soup and serve, BEAN SOUP.^Soak 1 cup of white beans over night; in the morning boil until quite tender; then rub through a colander, and add 3 pints of water and 1 quart of rich milk, 2 tablespoons of butter, 3 large potatoes chopped fine; season with finely cut parsley, pepper and salt to taste. Simmer about ^ hour, and serve hot. LIMA BEAN SOUP — Soak a pint of dried Lima beans over night; turn off the water in the morning, and put on the fire to boil slowly for 2 hours, with 3 pints of water; then rub through a colan- der. Put in the kettle again and add a pint of milk or cream, and thicken with a lump of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Season with pepper and salt, and serve with a roll at each plate. Time, about 2^ hours. BEAN PORRIDGE. — Soak over night a quart of any kind of good beans, such as are used for baking; boil them the next morning in plenty of water, until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, and add them to any good broth of fresh or salted meat, with a few slices of salt pork cut in dice. Cook and stir them often, until they VEGETABLE SOUPS 83 are all broken fine. This is a most nutritious soup to keep constantly on hand in winter, when milk is scarce; it is inexpensive, for the broth of all salted meats and "boiled dinners" can be used in prepar- ing it. It is more easily digested than baked beans, being less con- centrated food. Of this soup it was said in "olden times;" "Bean porridge hot, bean porridge cold, Bean porridge is the best when nine days old." CABBAGE SOUP. — Cut a small cabbage in quarters; carefully take apart and wash; then chop finely. About ^ hour before dinner add it to 2 quarts of stock, or broth, in which meat has been boiled; let it boil until dinner time, when the cabbage will be done. Serve with toasted bread. CARROT SOUP (a la Cressy}. — Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into the frying-pan, and when melted, add 1 large onion cut finely, a slice of ham cut in little squares, a teacup of chopped celery and 10 grated carrots. Stew over the fire until the vegetables begin to brown, then add 2 quarts of stock, and simmer for 2 hours. Rub all through the coarse colander, put back into the kettle to re= heat, and season with pepper and salt. Serve with a few dice of toasted bread in the tureen. This is good made with 3 pints of water, adding a pint of milk or cream when it is redieated. Time about 2^ hours. CELERY SOUP — Break apart, and carefully clean 2 bunches of celery; then cut it finely and boil in just water enough to cover it, until it is soft enough to rub through a coarse colander; scald 3 pints of milk and add to the celery, and the water in which it M^as boiled, with half a small onion cut finely if liked; then rub together a table- spoon each of butter and flour and stir it in the boiling soup, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve with strips of toasted bread without butter, or with browned crackers. Time, about 1 hour. CELERY CREAM SOUP.— Take 3 lbs. veal, and let it simmer slowly in 2 quarts of water till reduced one-half; when cold it will make a jelly4ike white stock. Take some celery, cut the best parts small, and cook it until tender in this stock; now put it through a colander first, and then through a coarse sieve, and it will make a kind of paste; return this to the saucepan, add 2 pints of cream, sea- son with pepper and salt, and let it simmer 10 minutes, stirring it often. It is excellent. GREEN CORN SOUP — Grate sweet^corn from 6 ears, and boil the cobs in sufficient water to cover them ; remove them after 10 8 34 VEGETABLE SOUPS minutes boiling, and use the water in which they are boiled to stew the grated corn; just before it is time to serve, add 1 quart of rich, sweet milk, letting it boil a few minutes. Season well with pepper and salt. Time, about -| hour. CUCUMBER SOUP — Peel the cucumbers (they must be young enough to have small, fine seeds) and put in a kettle to boil in a pint of water; when soft, rub through a fine colander and return to the kettle, with a little onion if liked, and seasoning to taste. Add enough sweet milk to make a quart'; when hot, add a little corn= starch, or arrowroot to thicken it, and serve with toasted bread. FLEMISH SOUP. 5 heads of celery. 2 quarts of water, 1 pint of cream. 10 medium-sized potatoes. 2 small onions. Slice the onions, celery and potatoes, and put them in a stew-pan, with just sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they can be rubbed through a fine colander. Return to the kettle with the water, and let it boil up; season with salt and white pepper, or a little curry powder; have the cream scalding hot, in a pitcher stand- ing in hot water, and add to the soup just before serving. If onion is disliked, 2 small carrots may be substituted for the onions. Make \ the quantity if desired. OKRA OR GUMBO SOUP.— The foundation for this should be stock, or broth made of a chicken, or, what is better even for any chicken soup, an old fowl. Carefully pluck, draw, singe and wash the fowl; cut it in pieces, cover with cold water, put on to boil up, skim, and then place the kettle where it will slowly cook. A little salt may be added if the fowl is young, but if old, simmer for an hour before adding the salt. When the fowl is done, take up the breast, thighs and legs, which can be served with a sauce for dinner, or made into salad; then slowly cook the remainder of the fowl to "rags," after adding pepper, a little sweet herbs, and a trifle of cayenne, and an even teaspoon of powdered sassafras leaves. Strain through the fine colander and return to the kettle. Add a few slices of salt pork, if the fowl was lean, then wash and slice a quart of green okra and add to the soup; cook until the pork and okra are done. Serve with boiled rice, boiled onions and rolls or bread. . ITALIAN SOUPS. — These are made by adding to hot stock, either macaroni, vermicelli, semolina, or other Italian pastes. They should be boiled for 10 or 15 minutes in water to cover them, before adding VEGETABLE SOUPS • 85 them to the stock. Macaroni and vermicelli are best cut in short pieces about ^ inch long, before being added to soup. JULIENNE SOUP, — For a soup to serve for 5 or 6 persons, take 2 or 3 middling=sized carrots (only the red parts), a middling-size tur- nip, a piece of celery-root, the core of a lettuce, some sorrel leaves, an onion, the white of half a leek. Rasp, peel or pluck these vegetables according to their nature; vt^ash, drain them, and mince them to "Julienne," that is, cut them in thin \ U \l i fillets about an inch long; carrots, turnip, celery \~\m\\w/^- and leek, all in equal lengths. Fry the onion and ^^Mlli/^^ leek in a little butter, then add the carrots, tur- '''^^Ifi^^ nips and celery, rav7 if tender, if not, blanch them. wK Season with salt and a little sugar, and add 2 /mm\ quarts of good stock. Let it simmer for ^ hour wmf^ before serving. ^^^^^^ The Leek belongs to the same order as the shallot, gar- lic and onion. It possesses similar properties to the onion. It is very succulent and wholesome, but to prevent tainting the breath it should be well boiled. MOCK BISQUE SOUP — Take ^ can of tomatoes cook until ten- der, and strain; cook 2 pints milk in a double boiler, and in a small sauce-pan cook 2 teaspoons of corn-starch and 1 tablespoon of butter, adding enough of the hot milk to make it pour easily; now stir this into the boiling milk carefully, and boil about 10 minutes. Cut 4 tablespoons of butter in small pieces and add it, mixing it well, and add also the strained tomatoes, ^ saltspoon of white pepper, and 1 teaspoon of salt; serve hot. Before straining the tomatoes, if they are very acid, ^ saltspoon of soda will improve them, by neutralizing the acid. MUSHROOM SOUP — Cut a nip of veal in rather large pieces and break the bones; allow to each pound a little less than a quart of water. Season with salt, pepper, and ^ dozen blades of mace. Boil until the meat falls to pieces; then strain into a clean soup=pot. Have ready a quart of mushrooms, peeled and divested of their stems; put them into the soup, adding ^ pound of butter divided into bits, each bit rolled in flour. Boil until the mushrooms are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes; keep closely covered; have toasted bread in small pieces in the soup4ureen, and pour the soup over it. NOODLE SOUP — Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until light; add flour and a little salt. Mould very stifP, then roll thin, and cut in narrow strips, about an inch long. Put in boiling water for 10 minutes, then in cold water for 3 minutes. Add this to 3 pints of hot stock. 36 VEGETABLE SOUPS ONION SOUP — Put a jDiece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce=pan, or spider, and slice 1 medium sized onion into it; let it fry until a delicate brown. Put in 1 quart of stock or hot water, with herbs if liked, salt, white pepper, and a dust of cayenne. Strain into the tureen, add 3 crackers, halved and well toasted, and send to the table. PALESTINE SOUP. — Peel and slice a quart of Jerusalem arti- chokes, 4 onions and 1 head of celery. Have 3 pints of water in the soup=kettle, or white veal stock or broth; add the vegetables, with pepper, salt, a bit of butter and a teaspoon of sugar; boil till tender, rub through the fine colander, and return to the kettle to keep hot; add a pint of cream, and send to the table hot, with croutons. Time, about 1 hour. CANADIAN PEA SOUP — Put a quart of whole hard peas, or split peas, in 2 quarts of cold soft water, and set on the fire in the morning. Let it boil, and as soon as the peas begin to soften, mash with a long=handled iron spoon, as much as possible, and skim ofp the skins as they rise to the top of the kettle. About 10 o'clock add to the peas a pound or more of salt pork, and if liked, a small onion cut finely. Boil together until noon, then take out the pork, add a little salt if needed, and a bowlful of bread, finely shaved from the loaf, which thickens the soup and prevents the peas from settling to the bottom of the tureen. This is a most nutritious and palatable soup. The pork can be served in thin slices, with vegetables, and chili sauce, or sour baked apples. GREEN PEA SOUP — Into the broth in which a leg of lamb has been boiled, put the shells of a quart of tender young peas; let them boil in the broth for \ hour, then strain out the shells and put in the peas to boil 20 minutes longer. Serve with any "soup-addition" liked. POTATO SOUP. — Slice 6 large potatoes and boil until tender; mash fine and rub through a colander into the soup-kettle; add 2 quarts of sweet milk. When it comes to boiling, add noodles already boiled in salt water. Season the soup to taste and serve. PUMPKIN SOUP. — Peel the pumpkin and cut into pieces (re- moving the seeds). Put it into boiling water with some salt, and leave it to boil until reduced to a pulp thin enough to pass through a strainer. Melt a piece of butter in a sauce=pan with a wine-glass of cream. Strain the pulp and add, with salt and pepper to taste, and a pinch of flour. Let the whole simmer \ hour, thicken with the yolk of an egg, and serve. VEGETABLE SOUPS 37 RICE SOUP — Put a piece of butter the size of an egg and 1 cup of bread crumbs in a skillet, and fry them as thoroughly brown as possible without burning. When sufficiently browned, pour on 8 quarts of boiling water, and add a pint of rice, a head of finely cut celery, and a little salt. Stew all together until the rice is ten- der. Add a cup of rich milk or cream, and serve. Half the above quantity will serve a small family. SAGO SOUP. — Wash f cup of sago in warm water, set it in a saucepan with 2 quarts of mi^k, and simmer until the sago is thor- oughly dissolved; season with pepper and salt, and add a cup of cream before serving Good clear stock is generally used for both sago and tapioca soup, but they are even nicer made with milk. FOR SEMOLINA, MACARONI AND VERMICELLI SOUP, see "Italian Soups." FRENCH SORREL SOUP.— Take a large handful of garden sorrel; wash thoroughly, and cut finely with shears, and add some lettuce leaves and sweet herbs, also finely cut. Drain thoroughly on a sieve, then put them in a frying-pan with butter already melted, and fry, stirring with a spoon. After about 10 minutes of cooking in this way, put in the soup^kettle, with 2 quarts of boiling water, and add, salt, white pepper, and bits of butter well rolled in flour. Serve rolls with the soup; hard boiled eggs, sliced into the tureen, are an addition much liked. The Soekel (Runiex Acefosa) is a hardy perennia., which grows in Europe, Asiatic Russia and North America. It grows in any good garden soil, and when fully grown, the leaves ara gathered singly, and they are used to flavor soups, salads and sauces. Sorrel was known to the Romans, who sometimes stewed it with mustard, and seasoned it with a little oil and vinegar. It is not much used in English and American cookery, but is used considerably in France. Its acid, which is very pronounced, is a combination of oxalic acid with potash, called by chemists, binoxalate of potash. soreel. TAPIOCA SOUP — Make like sago soup, given above, only the tapioca must be soaked for at least | hour in warm water before being put into the milk. TOMATO SOUP — Put 1 quart of tomatoes in 1 quart of boiling water and let them cook thoroughly; set 1 quart of milk in a pitcher or tin, into a kettle or pan of hot water to scald. When the tomatoes are done, add a teaspoon of soda, and when foaming ceases, add the hot milk with a generous lump of butter; salt and pepper to taste. Cream may be added instead of butter, and more milk and less 38 VEGETABLE SOUPS water used if desired. Brown a few crackers, roll fine and add to the soup. Serve with small pieces of dry toast without butter. Time, about 30 to 40 minutes. TOMATO SOUP No. 2.— One pint of canned tomatoes, or 4 raw ones, cut finely; add 1 quart of water and cook thoroughly — about ^ hour; then add 1 teaspoon of soda, which causes it to foam. Immediately add 1 pint of sweet milk with a little salt and butter. When this boils, add 8 small crackers, rolled fine, and serve. MOCK TURTLE SOUP — Soak over night 1 pint of black beans. The next day boil them in 2 quarts of water, until soft enough to rub through a colander; return them to the soup=kettle. Tie in a bit of strainer cloth (which must be perfectly clean) a bit each of thyme, parsley and summer sayory; let it boil in the soup. Add 1 tablespoon of butter, cut in bits and rolled in flour; also salt and pepper to taste. Cut the yolks of hard boiled eggs in quarters and add to the soup, with one sliced lemon. A good imitation of real turtle soup. The Thyme is a native of Spain and Italy, and was well known to the Romans. Its leaves possess an agree- able and highly aromatic flavor, and are used, in both a green and a dried state, to season soups, sauces, stuffings, etc., but a little of it goes a long ways. The Lemon Thyme is a variety of the wild thyme, remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles the rind of a lemon. LEMON THYME. VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.— Pare and cut in quarters a large vegetable marrow, and remove the seeds from it. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stew pan, and put in the marrow with a little salt, pepper, a lump of loaf sugar and a little nutmeg. Stew in water to cover it until it will pass through a fine colander, or hair-sieve; then add enough scalding hot milk to make it the consistency of cream; serve with fried bread cut in small dice. Vegetable Maekow belongs to the gourd tribe, and was first introduced from Persia. It has a delicate flavor and is easily digested. One of the simplest and best ways of cook- ing is to boil them and serve with a sauce poured over them, vegetable makkow. VICTORIA SOUP — Wash and scald I pound of pearl barley; put it in the soup=pot with 3 pints of white veal stock, and simmer gently over a slow fire for 1| hours, by which time the barley will be nearly dissolved; remove | of it to a small soup=pot, rub the remain- MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 89 der through a tammy or sieve, pour over the whole barley, add half a pint of cream season with a little salt, stir it over the fire until hot, and serve. This soup may be made with rice, and these were the only soups eaten by Queen Victoria during the time Francatelli was chef in her household. WHITE SOUP. — White soup is in reality white sauce, only in larger quantities and not quite so strong. White sotips, such as cel- ery, cauliflower, Palestine, potato, vegetable marrow, have all the same basis, viz., reduced stock and boiling milk, and only differ as to which stewed vegetable is rubbed through the wire sieve and added. MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS. ALMA MATER SOUP — Take a sheep's • head and pluck. Have the head cut in several pieces with a cleaver, wash thoroughly in salted water and put in the soup= kettle with a gallon of water; cut the liver and heart in slices, and fry brown in a little butter, then add to the soup; simmer gently until the bones separate from the meat; take from the fire, and remove all the bones from the meat; cut the meat in very small pieces, and return to the kettle; fill in with hot water to keep the gallon, add 1 teacup of loearl barley; season with 4 cloves, pepper, salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cut finely 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, and cook until the vegetables are done. Serve with forcemeat balls. BEEF SOUP. — Put 1 small beef bone in about 1 gallon of water; when it has simmered about 3 hours, add 4 potatoes, 2 tur- nips, 2 onions, and 2 tablespoons each of rice and barley; season with salt and white pepper, and boil 1 hour longer. Add one table- spoon of chopped celery just before serving. BOUILLON. — For a party of 12, allow 6 pounds of beef cut finely, and 2 shinbones of beef well broken. Put over the fire with 3 quarts of cold water, and bring to a boil. Skim thoroughly, and set back on the range to simmer slowly for 5 hours; then strain through the fine colander. Remove every particle of fat, which can be done by drawing the edge of blotting paper across the bouillon. After the fat is removed, return to the kettle and redieat. Season with pepper and salt, and serve in bouillon cups (/. e., cups about the size of cof- fee-cups, with 2 handles) when served at lunches. Cloudy bouillon is caused generally by rapid boiling and careless skimming. 4U MEAT, POULTKY AND GAME SOUPS CLEAR SOUP. — Out 4 lbs. lean beef into small pieces, carefully removing all the fat; pour on 1 gallon of water, and boil it up three times, skimming well each time; if not well skimmed, it will not be clear. Into each of 2 small onions stick 4 cloves firmly, scrape 2 small carrots, and put them into the soup; add 6 blades of mace, 1 bunch of parsley and 1 teaspoon of celery seed, salt and pepper; boil until the vegetables are tender, strain through muslin, and return to the soup=pot; add the whites of 4 eggs, well beaten, and boil until they gather to one side; skim and tint it a delicate amber with £ little caramel; wash the muslin, pour through again, and serve. Maoe is the membrane which surrounds the nut- meg. This membrane is removed, and when dried and flattened it forms the mace of commerce. It con- tains about 4 per cent, of an aromatic oil, and its general properties are similar to the nutmeg. A coarse and inferior article from a different tree is sometimes palmed off for the genuine mace. CHICKEN SOUP. — This need not be made wholly of young spring chickens, for they are more valuable for roasting or broiling; but the remnants of raw chickens when used for fricassee or " chicken supreme," can be utilized in a soup, and if a large quantity of soup is needed, a few pounds of veal bones and cheap veal trimmings may be simmered with the chicken, which will flavor them all. Let the soup=pot come to boiling; skim, and then set on the back of the range to slowly simmer for B or 4 hours, or until the meat drops from the bones. Season with salt and pepper, or a little curry powder instead of pepper, and a soup bunch; then simmer 10 minutes longer, strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. Thicken with a little corn^starch, and color and flavor with caramel. Serve with oyster crackers. Chicken Soup No. 2. — Take the remnants of roasted chickens — the necks, wings, all the bones, and every part left from dinner the day previous; add water sufficient to cover it all; slowly simmer until the meat separates from the bones. Then add any gravy or rem- nants of dressing, and let it boil up once. For the remnants of 2 chickens there should be 3 pints of soup; straim through cheese-cloth or fine colander, put the soup back into the kettle, add more season- ing if needed; thicken with bits of butter well rolled in flour; boil up once, and serve immediately. CHICKEN AND GUMBO.— Take a fair sized chicken, cut up as for fricassee, pick out the bones, and fry with ^ lb. finely chopped bacon. Add 1 gallon water, 2 pints small okras, and the same of MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 41 tomatoes; season highly with white pepper, salt and cayenne, and simmer 4 hours. Put 1 tablespoon of boiled rice in each plate before serving, and pour the soup over it. Gumbo Fillet is made the same way, but seasoned more highly, and tender roots of young sassafras added. Green corn, cut from the cob, and lima beans are also added sometimes. CONSOMME. 6 quarts of water. 2 turnips. 2 carrots. 1 bunch of herbs, 2 leeks. 2 old fowls. 4 pounds of lean beef. 2 onions. Let it simmer slowly for 8 hours, or till it is reduced to 2 quarts. Observe the usual rule of skimming, straining and seasoning, and use for dainty appetites, with quenelles, or any garnish liked best. DUCHESS SOUP. — Put a quart of rich stock, or consomme, on the range to heat; when it comes to boiling, thicken it with a tablespoon of arrowroot, and then j)our it into the tureen containing neatly cut lengths of roasted poultry or game. EQQ SOUP. — Break 6 fresh eggs into a bowl; add a pint of sweet cream and a little white pepper and salt; beat the eggs well and add the cream ; pour into a square tin well buttered, and place it jn the oven in a dripping-pan of hot water, and bake about ^ hour. Let it get cold, then cut in small squares, put in the soup tureen, pour 2 quarts of hot stock, or broth, over it, and send it to the table. Milk may be used instead of stock. This soup is rich and may be served with hot toasted crackers when the dinner is otherwise light. Egg Soup No. 2 — When you have a broth in which meat has been boiled, or i)oultry, even if thin and not transparent, a good soup may be made when eggs are plenty by boiling for 20 minutes, 4 eggs for every quart of broth. Throw the eggs in cold water, and shell them. Have the broth well strained, and put it back in the kettle. Cut the whites of the eggs in rings, and pulverize the yolks with a fork on a plate (they should be mealy with the boiling) and add whites and yolks to the broth, also a few bits of butter well rolled in flour. Do not boil after the egg mixture is put in the kettle. EVERY=DAY SOUP — Go in the pantry in the morning and put into the soup kettle all the nice meat bones, cold bits of meat, cold gravy, also any cooked vegetables left the day before. Get ready the meat for dinner, and put the trimmings in the kettle. Season with a little salt, a few whole cloves, and a few pepper-corns broken in the mortar; add also a small onion cut finely. Put in the kettle enough 42 MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS water to serve each person with ^ pint of soup. Simmer all together until an hour before dinner; then strain and return to the kettle. Have ready, shredded, and standing in cold water, some vegetable, either cabbage, turnips, carrots, asparagus, green peas or spinach, and add to the soup. When the vegetable is done, serve with rolls or bread. FLORENCE SOUP.— Put on to heat, B pints of white stock, beef, veal or chicken broth, and add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, and 1 cup of cream; boil 3 or 4 sticks of macaroni in salted water for 10 minutes; cut in ^ inch pieces and add to the soup; have the bot- tom of the soup tureen covered with grated cheese, pour over the hot soup, and serve. GAME SOUP. — This can be made of a squirrel, wild duck, rab= bit, partridge, 2 or 8 squabs (young pigeons) or any kind of game brought in, in too small a quantity for serving in any other way, and is a good soup for an invalid, or small family. Dress the game by skinning, if a quadruped, or, by picking, if a fowl or bird. Draw, and wipe clean with a wet cloth. Cut in small pieces and boil gently 2 or 3 hours, or until the meat separates from the bones; then take out the bones and season with pepper and salt. Cut a piece of butter the size of an egg, in small bits, roll each bit in flour; add, and let it boil for ^ minute, and serve with thin slices of bread laid on the bot- tom of the tureen. Game soup can also be made by one of our recipes for stock, using game instead of beef or other meat. HOTCH=POTCH SOUP.— Soak ^ pint of split peas over night and add ^ teaspoon of soda to the water; the next morning, turn off the water and rinse again; then put them to boil in 2 quarts of water; boil slowly 2 or 3 hours; then add a pound of beef or mutton, cut in small pieces, a carrot, a tuVnip, a small cabbage, an onion, all cut finely, and 3 or 4 large slices of salt pork. Add salt and pepper to taste, and cook until the meat is done, keeping it just covered with water. This is fine in a cold day in the winter, and is an inexpensive dinner by itself, without other meat. MEAT BROTH — Put the beef or mutton on in cold water and let it heat slowly; a scum will rise when it comes to the boiling point; remove this very carefully, then cover the pot, and keep it at a gentle simmer; from time to time lift the cover and skim till no more scum rises. Take out the meat when thoroughly cooked — in 2 or 3 hours. Set the meat in the oven to keep it warm, with the door of the oven MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 43 open a little way. Have some thin slices of toasted bread well butter- ed, or some browned crackers in the tureen, and after pouring the broth through the cloth strainer, pour over the tureen and serve. Instead of the toast, a little chopped cabbage, boiled in a separate stew-pan can be added, or any other vegetable liked. MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 1 fowl or rabbit, or 2 lbs. of lean 2 large onions. beef or veal. A bit of garlic (or 2 or 8 1 bunch of herbs. cloves). 2 tablespoons of curry powder. 2 quarts of cold water. Peal of 1 lemon, • Cut the meat in small pieces and cover with the water; slice the onions, fry them brown in beef drippings, and put the onions, lemon peel, herbs, and cloves or garlic, with the meat, and simmer slowly for 5 hours, skimming well; then strain through the fine colander. Return to the kettle, add salt to taste and ground white pepper, and a teacup of rice. When the rice begins to break in pieces, add the juice of a lemon, and 2 table- spoons of curry powder. MuUagatawny means "pepper pot," and it is an Indian soup. It always requires to be well seasoned, and rice should be served with it. Gaelic is an eastern plant which has been cultivated from ancient times. It belongs to the same family as the onion, and it posseses its properties in an intensified degree. It is much used in Italian, Spanish and French cookery, but very little in English and American. It is very wholesome, assists digestion, and acts as a slight stimulant and tonic. It possesses much medicinal value. As a rule in using garlic it is not chopped but the flavor is imparted simply by rub- bing; cut a little off the end of the garlic, and rub it on the garlic. dish in which the food to be flavored is placed. MUTTON BROTH — Take 2 lbs. of what is known as the scrag- end of the neck of mutton; remove as much as possible every parti- cle of fat. Put it in a quart of cold water, with a slice of onion and a saltspoon of salt. Let it simmer very gently for 3 or 4 hours; skim occasionally. Strain off the broth and allow it to cool. Take off all fat, and warm up when required. When not required for invalids, some chopped parsley may be added to the broth, as well as other vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, or leeks. OXTAIL SOUP.^ — {Rich heef soup). — Two shin=bones of beef well broken, and 2 beef=tails cut in short pieces. Put in the soup-kettle with 3 quarts of water. Let it come to a boil and carefully skim; then slowly simmer until the meat will separate from the bones. Take out the meat and bones with a skimmer into a pan, and cut the 44 MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS meat in small pieces, putting back the bones to simmer until an hour before dinner; then take out the bones again and add a carrot, a small turnip, a small onion, all cut finely, with herbs, salt and pepper to taste, and if preferred, a tablespoon of any of the ready-made meat sauces liked by the family. Fry the bits of meat a nice brown, in a little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen; pour the soup and vegetables over the meat and send it to the table. Serve with rolls, bread, or toasted crackers. The ingredients of this soup may be all simmered together for 4 or 5 hours, then strained through the cloth strainer. A tablespoon of corn=starch in a little water may be added for thickening, and a tablespoon of caramel=sugar used for col- oring. Sufficient for 8. RABBIT SOUP. — Cut a young rabbit in small pieces and soak in water for an hour; then put in the soup^pot, and cook until the meat separates from the bones. Take all the best meat, and return the remainder to the kettle, with a carrot, turnip, onion, and 2 or 3 sticks of celery, all cut finely, with seasoning to taste, and simmer for 2 hours longer; then strain the soup and return to the kettle; add a piece of butter about the size of an English walnut, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, to thicken it. There should be 3 quarts of broth when done. Cut the meat in small pieces, put in the tureen, and pour over the hot rabbit soup. TURKEY SOUP — After a turkey has been served for dinner and the meat has been taken from the carcass, break all the bones finely and put in the soup= kettle, with any remaining dressing or gravy, and add 3 quarts of water if the turkey was large — less for a small one. Let boil slowly for 2 or 3 hours; then pour through a coarse colander, and serve with toasted crackers. MOCK TURTLE SOUP — Scald a calf's head, and wash it clean. Boil in a large pot of water for ^ hour, then cut all the skin off by itself; take the tongue out, take the broth made of a knuckle of veal, put in the tongue and skin, with an onion, ^ ounce each of cloves and mace, ^ a nutmeg, all kinds of sweet herbs chopped fine, 3 anchovies; stew it till tender; then take out the meat, and cut it in pieces 2 inches square; cut the tongue, previously skinned, in slices; strain the liquor through a sieve. Melt ^ lb. butter in a stew=pan; put in ^ lb. flour; stir it till smooth; if at all lumpy, strain it; add the liquor, stirring it all the time; then add to the meat the juice of 2 lemons. Season with pepper, salt and cayenne pepper, pretty high; put in 5 meat balls, 8 eggs, boiled hard. Stew it 1 hour gently. FISH AND SHELL=FISH SOUPS 45 » VEAL SOUP — Into 4 quarts of water put a 3 lb. joint of veal, well broken, and set on the stove to boil. In a separate dish put ^ lb. of macaroni, with just water enough to cover it, and boil till tender; then add a little butter. Finally the soup should be strained, seasoned with pepper and salt, and afterwards add the macaroni and the water in which it was boiled. Many will find it an improvement to add 1 pint of cream, or rich milk, and celery flavor. FISH AND SHELL=FISH SOUPS. BOSTON SOUP. — Any kind of fish may be used for this dish. Chop 2 onions, and put them with a piece of butter into a stew-pan and let them brown without burning. Then arrange the fish which has been previously cut into small pieces, in the pan. Add a small quantity of the best olive oil, a clove of garlic, a bayleaf, two slices of lemon, 2 tomatoes, and as much powdered saffron as will go on the point of a table-knife, and lastly the juice of the remainder of the lemon. Put in sufiicient stock to cover the whole, and boil from 10 to 20 minutes, skimming carefully the whole time. When ready to serve, throw in a handful of chopped parsley. Bay Leaves are taken from a species of laurel, L. Nobil- is. It is a native of Asia Minor, but is cultivated as a handsome evergreen. The leaves are- large, shining and lance^shaped, and are bitter, aromatic and narcotic. They are used by cooks and confectioners because of their agree- able flavor. Most of the dried figs imported into this country are packed in bay leaves. The laurel among the Greeks was sacred to Apollo, and from it the garlands were made which were placed on the heads of heroes and P°^*^' THE BAY. BISQUE OF LOBSTER — Wash thoroughly with a brush, a small lobster, then remove all the solid meat and put it on ice. Break finely the shell and claws of the lobster, and put it in the soup=ket- tle with enough water to cover it. Cut finely, and add a small carrot, 1 head of celery, and a very small onion or bit of garlic, with herbs, salt and white pepper, to taste. Boil 1 hour and then strain; put back in the kettle and add 3 pints of stock. Set it on the range where it will keep hot but not boil, as boiling causes it to curdle. Just before serving, cut the meat of the lobster in small pieces and fry brown in a little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen. Add to the bisque the juice of -g a lemon, and a dust of cayenne pep- 46 FISH AND SHELL^FISH SOUPS per, and pour over the meat in the tureen. Serve with a French roll at each plate, or with browned crackers. CLAM SOUP — Put 25 clams in boiling water for a few minutes. Then open them and save the liquor that comes from them; add to it an equal quantity of water, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, 1 chop- ped onion, butter the size of an egg, cut in bits and rolled in flour; pepper and salt to taste, 2 well beaten eggs and the chopped clams, adding lastly 1 pint of milk. Boil 10 minutes. A very nice soup. (It is better to add the eggs to this soup the last thing before taking up, as the egg is apt to curdle, if boiled. ) NEWPORT CLAM CHOWDER.— Wash the clams thoroughly with boiling water, and let them stand 10 minutes, when they can easily be removed from the shell. Cut off the black heads and put the bodies in a clean dish. For a peck of clams use 8 large potatoes, peeled and sliced thin, and ^ an onion cut in small pieces. Cut ^ pound of salt pork into small pieces and fry brown. Put the onion and potatoes into the kettle with the pork, with a tablespoon of salt, a little pepper and f a cup of flour shaken in ; strain on this 4 quarts of the water in which the clams were scalded, and let all boil 15 min- utes; then add the clams, 6 crackers split, ^ cup of tomato sauce; cook 10 minutes longer, and serve, SALT CODFISH SOUP — Take a piece of codflsh the size of the hand, scald, skin, and pick in small pieces, and put in a kettle with a quart of water; soak, and change the water until it is fresh enough; then add 1 pint of cream and 1 pint of water and let it come to boil- ing. Serve it with buttered, toasted crackers. FISH SOUP. — Take any kind of fresh fish liked best — about 2 pounds for 3 quarts of water. Cut in small pieces and put in the soup-pot — skin, bones and all — with a large onion, sliced, a bunch of parsley, a sliced lemon, with a little salt and white pepper. Cook to rags; then strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. Add a heaping tablespoon of corn= starch wet in half a teacup of water; let it come to boiling, and serve with quenelles, if desired. Time, about 2 hours. FISH SOUP No. 2. — Take a fish that weighs about 2 pounds; cut enough slices for the frying-pan, and put the remainder, with the bones, in the soup-kettle, with an onion if liked, a sliced lemon, a bunch of parsley, salt, and white pepper. Simmer together for an hour; strain and return to the kettle, and add ^ pint of cream, and enough hot water to make 3 pints of soup. Fry the fish cutlets in FISH AND SHELL^FISH SOUPS 47 butter, and add to the soup, or serve on a platter instead of meat on a fast day. If the fish is not added to the soup, serve it with nood- les. Time, about 1^ hours. OYSTER SOUP — Put a pint of small oystesr with their liquor in a quart of boiling water and let them become plump; then take them out with a skimmer, rinse thoroughly in warm water, and be sure there are no bits of shell adhering to them. Strain the soup=water through the cloth strainer and return to the kettle. Let it come to a boil, add a little white pepper and a very little cayenne, with a piece of butter the size of an Qg^, cut in bits and rolled in flour. Boil a minute after this, then pour over the oysters in the tu- reen and serve with small crackers, or large crackers split, and browned in the oven. A richer soup is made by leaving out one pint of water and substituting one pint of cream. SPANISH SOUP. — Slice and shred 2 large onions and fry in 2 tablespoons of salad=oil until the onions are quite yellow; then add a dessert=spoon of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt and a quart of good stock, or water; boil together for 3 minutes; then add small slices of any kind of fish most agreeable or convenient; boil these for a few minutes and serve with the crusts of a round French roll fried in a little oil and butter. The slices of fish may be removed to a platter, covered with one of the fish sauces, and served as a course separate from the soup. FISH. EISH has been an important article of food in all ages and in all countries. Although less nourishing and stimulating than meat, it has much nutritive value. Its abundance and cheapness commend it, and it should be used freely in the season when it is best and cheapest. The flesh of fish when in season, ?'. e., before spawning, is solid and boils firm and curdy. It should be used as fresh as possible, as it soon spoils. White fleshed fish are the most easily digested, and the oily varieties like mackerel, salmon and eels, are the most difiicult of digestion. White fieshed fish is the most delicate, and the red fleshed and oily kinds the most nourishing. Fish is highly nitrog- enous, and requires an abundant use of starchy food in combination with it, to supply a sufficient amount of heat=giving material; and, owing to the lack of oil in the white fleshed varieties, they are best cooked in fat. Lemon juice or vinegar (being acid) are excellent as an accompaniment, or in the sauces, for fish and shelhfish, because of the alkaline nature of their juices. It is essential to the wholesome- ness of fish that they should be thoroughly cleaned and cooked. The popular idea that fish aid brain and nervous development because of the phosphorus they contain is wholly erroneous. There is no relation between the amount of phosphorus passing through the system and the intensity of thought. It is not because of the phosphorus they contain that fish, oysters and eggs, are suitable for students, but because they are easily digested, and those leading sed- entary lives do not need the hearty food suited to a daylaborer, besides which they are adapted to those on whose nervous energies there are large drains because of the large amount of nitrogenous material which they contain. It should also be said that fish contains no larger per cent, of phosphorus than meat. Cleaning Fish. — Fish should be cleaned as soon as possible after being caught. Make an incision in the under side from the gills half way down, and take out the insides; carefully remove the thin black membrane lining the cavity, as it is apt to impart a bitter flavor to the whole fish if it is left. It is best to remove the white part ad- hering to the bone, called the sound, although some people leave it. Do not cut off the tail and head if it is to be served whole. Scrape from the tail towards the head to remove the scales; take out the eyes, and wash in strongly salted water; dry carefully, and wrap a cloth sprinkled with salt around it, and keep near the ice. The salt checks the outflow of the juices. Handle the fish as little as possible, and do not wash it too much (one water is usually enough) and do 48 FISH 49 not let the fish soak in the water, as that will extract the juices and detract from its value. Keep fish in a cool place near the ice, but do not let ice touch it, as that will soften and injure, if it does not spoil it. Do not keep fish in the ice chest, as it will taint any- thing like milk or butter. Keep any fish left after the meal in the same way. To Skin a Fish. — Cut a narrow stri^a along the backbone, using a sharp knife, and removing the fin on the back; then run up the knife through and under the bony part of the gills and peel the skin off backwards toward the tail, holding the bony j)art of the gills with the thumb and finger; then peel ofp the skin from the other side in the same manner, and throw it away. To Bone a Fish. — Fish like herring and shad, abounding in fine bones, are not boned, but whitefish, mackerel, cod, etc., can be boned as follows: Clean, skin and spread it out flat on a board; then begin at the tail, and run a sharp, thin knife under the flesh, close to the bone, and lopsen the backbone with the forefinger. Take pains not to break the flakes, and when the flesh on one side is loosened, slip the knife under the bone on the other; when all the bone is loosened, pull it from the flesh. Any small bones remaining in the flesh can be felt and removed with the fingers. Hints. — The earthy or muddy taste which taints some kinds of fresh water fish can be removed by rubbing on salt and letting them stand a few hours or over night; or, if in a hurry, soak them in salted water -I to 2 hours. If fish are dipped in hot water for a minute, they will scale much easier. To remove scales, there is no instrument equal to a currycomb — it is everyway superior to a knife. The scales and en- trails should be removed, and also the blood and white skin along the backbone, as soon after the fish is caught as possible ; then rinse, wipe dry, and keep near ice. Keep the eggs, or fish roe, and cook it with the fish. The quickest and best way to freshen salt fish is to soak it in sour milk. As salt will settle, put the fish flesh side down, then the salt as it dissolves out of the fish will settle in the bottom of- the pan. If the skin side is down the salt will settle against the skin and be retained in the fish. All fish lose nourishing power by being salted. Salted fish and canned fish, oysters, lobsters etc., can be kept in the store-room against an emergency, but great care must be taken in the case of canned meats, fish, lobsters, and vegetables, that the 4: 50 FISH brands selected are put up in pure tin cans ; a mixture of lead witli the tin is sometimes used, tlie oxide of which is poisonous. All the contents of a tin can when opened should be immediately removed into an earthen or glass dish, as oxidation proceeds rapidly after the can is opened, and the inside, with its contents, exposed to the action of the air. The knives and spoons used about fish should not be used for other food till well cleaned, as they will impart a fishy flavor to it. Rub steel knives or forks with fresh lemon or orange peel to take ofip the fishy taste. To thaw out frozen fish, put it in cold water, and leave it until it is flexible and the frost is all drawn out; then dress and cook at once. Fish, if kept near ice and very cold, retains much of its fresh- ness, but if once heated, its delicate flavor cannot be restored. Fish that is not quite fresh can be improved by washing in vinegar and water, or permanganate of potash and water. It is afterwards better fried than boiled, but no dressing will entirely conceal its quality. Fish purchased in the market should be used the same day if pos- sible. The garnishing of fish is an art, if nicely done. Celery tops, horse- radish, common radishes, water-cresses, parsely, nasturtium flowers, sliced lemons and red pickled beets, cut in fanciful shapes, are among the most effective and popular things to use. Methods of Cooking Fish — Broiling a fish best retains its nourish- ing qualities; baking is next, while boiling retains the least — in fact, boiling is the least desirable way of cooking them. Small fish are usually fried; those of medium size broiled and baked, and the larg- est can be boiled. As the directions iov frying, boiling, steioing, broiling and bak- ing fish apply to nearly all kinds, we will give these methods quite fully, instead of describing the same method o\er and over again for each different kind of fish. Anyone who masters the process, can easily cook any fish adapted to that way of cooking. TO BOIL FISH. When boiling fish, to have the water bubble is worse than useless, as it cracks the skin. If fish is put into cold water at first, it, like meat, gets dry (see our article on the prin- ciples involved in cooking meat). A compromise is therefore made, and salt is added to the water (use about 1 oz. of salt to each quart of water) ; it is well also to add about 1 tablespoon of vinegar or FISH 51 A FISH KETTLE. lemon juice to each 2 quarts of water. Vinegar or lemon juice are valuable because albumen coagulates sooner when in contact with an .acid, and they thus heljD to coagulate the surface albumen, and so re- tain the juices inside. Salt added to the water in which fish is cooked acts in 3 ways, as explained in the article on cooking meats. The old plan has been to put fish into cold v/ater at first, but it is much better to put it into water as hot as the skin will bear without breaking, and this varies with each kind of fish. To break the skin is very undesirable , because it not only makes an unsightly appearance but each crack makes an opening through which the interior juices will escape. Any fish which is to be served without the skin on, like sturgeon or halibut, is best if put into boil- ing water. Fish having a thick, tough skin, can be put into water at the boiling point. Fish with delicate skins, like trout, mackerel, etc. should be put into warm water — 140° to 150°. If a fish kettle is used, and a fish plate that can be taken up, there is no need of a cloth around the fish, but if it has to be boiled in a common kettle, it should be rolled in a piece of cloth (butter cloth is best) to keep it in shape, and it is likely to be broken when taken from the water, if the cloth is not used. Allow the fish to gently simmer, not actually boil, or the outside will break into pieces before the inside is done. If water is to be added, do not pour it directly on the fish, as that is apt to break the skin; pour it gently in on one side of the kettle. Fish should always be put into the water in which it is to be cooked; if the water is poured upon it, it is apt to become broken. It should not be allowed to remain in the water after it is done; if it has to be kept hot, it should be taken up on a drainer, placed across the fish= kettle over the hot water, and covered with a soft cloth or flannel folded several times, to prevent its losing its color. The reason for skimming is, that the scum will be likely to settle on the fish if that is not done, and give it an unsightly appearance. Save the liquor in which fish has been boiled, as it makes an excellent soup with a few cheap additions. Boiling is the least desirable way of cooking fish. 52 FISH The Time of Boiling depends entirely on the freshness and thickness of the fish, and varies so much that no rule can be given; experience is the only guide. There are three reliable tests by which it can be ascertained if the fish has been sufiiciently cooked : First, if the fins will pull out easily; second, if the skin of the fish is cracked; or, third, if a skewer passes easily when run into the fish close to the bone. Too long boiling makes fish "woolly" and tasteless. Fish should be well cooked to be digestible, but should not be overdone. White fish cook much more rapidly than meat. All darksfleshed fish require more boiling than the white-fleshed kinds. Salmon needs about 10 minutes to each lb. Haddock, cod, etc. only need 2 or 3 minutes to the lb. Mackerel needs about \ hour. Bass or sheeps- head, of 4 or 5 lbs., will boil in about 10 minutes. Herring and many similar fish, in 6 or 8 minutes. Au Court Bouillon is a term applied when white wine or vine- gar and onions and spices are used to flavor the water in which the fish is boiled. A la bonne eau is a term applied when the fish is simmered in a little water made savory with herbs, and the water in which it is cooked is generally served with it. When sea water is used the fish is said to be a V Hollandaise. All bleu is the term applied when red wine and vinegar are used in the water in which the fish is boiled, and it is also strongly im- pregnated with herbs, The fish is then generally served cold. Only the best kinds of fish are thus treated. ^ZZ 6oz7ed^s/i should have a good sauce served with it. Hollan- daise and sauce piquante go well with salmon, oyster, lobster, and shrimp; and drawn butter, egg, pickle, etc., with other fish. Serve the sauce in a sauce-boat unless the fish breaks and looks badly, in which case the bones can be taken out, the fish flaked, piled on a platter lightly, and the sauce poured over it. Garnish boiled fish with slices of lemon or hard boiled eggs, parsley, button mushrooms, fried oysters, sliced pickles, Saratoga potatoes, etc. STEAMED FISH. An excellent way to cook fish is to thoroughly clean, remove the head, skin and tail, rub with salt and lemon juice, and cook in a steamer, over boiling water, instead of boiling it. In many respects it is better than boiling. When done, serve on a platter on which a folded napkin is laid, pile Saratoga potatoes around it, and garnish with parsley, slices of lemon or hard boiled egg. Serve a good sauce in a sauce-boat with it. FISH 53 Time to steam, about 20 minutes for moderate ' sized fish, and longer for large ones. STEWED FISH. Cut the fish in small pieces and sprinkle on salt; then in ^ pint of water boil one onion (sliced) and when cooked, pour off the water; then add 1 cup water, the juice of |^ a lemon, ^ teaspoon salt, a salt- spoon of pepper, and a sprig of parsley or other herbs. Boil the fish in this till done, and serve very hot. Rub to a cream 1 teaspoon of butter and 1 large teaspoon of flour, and thicken the gravy with it. Any fresh water fish can be thus stewed. Time to stew, about 20 minutes. , TO BROIL FISH. Clean the fish properly and either rub it with vinegar or dry it and dredge it with flour. Salt and pepper is all that is really neces- sary to apply to oily fish before broiling them, but salad oil or butter shouM be first spread over dry, white fish. Fish is sometimes soaked in marinade previous to broiling, as it improves the flavor. The French steep it in olive oil flavored with spices. Large fish need a moderate fire so as not to burn the outside before the inside is done ; they are best split, in order to cook them through well, ox else make notches at equal distances on the sides to admit the heat. Small fish need a clear hot fire, and may be cooked whole. The gridiron should always be well greased. As the skin burns easily, the flesh side should be cooked first to a golden brown; then turn and broil the skin side until it is crisp. A double wire gridiron is easily turned, but the best way when an old style iron or a single gridiron is used, is to take a knife and separate any part that sticks; then with one hand hold a platter over the fish, and with the other, turn over the gridiron; the fish will then be on the platter and can easily be returned to the gridiron without breaking. When done, sprinkle on salt and pepper, and, using a knife, spread a little butter over it, and then put it in the oven a moment to let it soak in. A Maitre d' hotel or other good sauce can be used with it. All oily fish, like mackerel, herring etc., are better broiled than fried. * The pieces of fish are sometimes wrapped in a piece of oiled paper before being broiled, when very delicate broiling is desired. The paper must be very thoroughly oiled or buttered, but no oil should drop on the fire, and a very clear fire is needed. A gridiron that has cooked fish needs most thorough cleaning. 54 FISH Remember that the secret of having dry, white fish, nice, is to rub them with salad oil or melted butter before broiling them. Time to Cook. — This depends largely on the size. Small fish will broil in 5 to 10 minutes, while larger ones will need 15 to 20 min- utes. BEOILED SALT FISH. Use any salt fish, and either soak it in cold water 24 hours, changing it 2 or 3 times, or if in a hurry use warm water and soak it a short time, changing the water and parboiling it slightly. When wanted for use, drain, dry, and broil briskly. Season with pepper, a lit.tle salt if needed, and pour on melted butter. Time to broil, about 10 to 12 minutes. MARINADE FOR BROILED FISH. Mix together ^ cup of salad oil, a chopped onion, the juice of a lemon or 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and a bunch of herbs. Scores 1 inch apart are often made in the fish before putting it i& the marinade. Let them soak in this | hour. Many kinds of dry fish are much improved by this treatment. TO FRY FISH. By frying fish we mean immersing it in hot fat. The fish should be well cleaned, dried with a soft cloth, and seasoned with pepper and salt; then rub it with flour, dip it in beaten egg, and then sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs; sometimes wheat flour or Indian corn-meal are used, but fully cover the fish so that there are no cracks. Then fry it in smoking hot fat like doughnuts, and as directed elsewhere under " The Processes of Cooking." It should be fried a rich golden brown. A sheet of paper can be placed to receive it after it is fried, that it may be free from all grease. Some cooks lay it in the oven for a moment, and then serve. Time to Cook. — A very little time is all that is needed to cook it (from 2 to 5 minutes) if the fat is the right tempei"ature; a general mistake is to overcook it. Do not fry oily fish, like mackerel, salmon, etc. Halibut, cod, etc., can be skinned, boned, and cut into small pieces, and then fried. Fish which is very cold should be slightly warmed first, or it will chill the fat and become greasy. Fish thus fried is nicer than by the common method of frying in the frying=pan; try it once, if you never have. Fish is also sometimes fried in batter. The fish should be dried, seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in the batter, and quickly put FISH 55 into the hot fat. The batter must be smooth and thick. As soon as the batter is of a bright golden color, take it out, and if the fish is thick, put it in the oven for a few minutes. The fat is more than 100° hotter than boiling water, and the inside part of whatever is cooked in it goes on cooking after it is taken out of the fat. For frijing in the frying-pan or sauteing, butter is not desira- ble, as it scorches too easily and gives a bad odor to any fish that re- quires long cooking. Small brook4rout, however, are sometimes cooked in butter in the frying-pan. For ordinary sized pan^fish, or slices of large fish, the fat from a few thin slices of salt pork is excel- lent; the thin scraps of fried pork are used with other garnishing, around the fish on the platter. Garnish fried fish with parsley, lemon, pickle, etc., and serve with any acid sauce, like tomato or tartare. Small fish should be ar- ranged with heads and tails alternating. Arrange fillets in a circle, one overlapping the other. BAKED FISH. Clean, dry, and stuff the fish with one of the stuffings given be- low, and sew it. Long, narrow fish bake best if a trussing needle is run through the side of the head, then the middle of the body, and then the tail, in such a way as to form the fish into the shape of a letter S as shown in the accompanying illustra tion; it will then rest on its bel- ly while baking, instead of on its side. Shad or other short, broad fish, may be propped up on their bellies with peeled po- tatoes, or pieces of old bread. In order to lift the fish out easily when done, it is best to put the fish on an iron or tin baking sheet, with handles at the ends, and set that in the baking pan; if you have no such baking sheet, 2 broad strips of cotton cloth can be used to lift the fish out with, laying the cloth across the pan before putting in the fish. Grease the baking sheet well with salt pork fat, to keep the fish from sticking, and put some pieces of pork under the fish al- so. Sprinkle it over with salt and pepper, rub on soft butter, and put narrow strips of pork in gashes cut across the back of the fish about 2 inches apart. Dredge it well with flour, and bake in a hot oven until nicely browned, basting it often to prevent the skin from crack- ing. Remember that constant basting is essential to success. Some BAKED FISH. 56 FISH cooks put a little water in the baking pan, but it is better not to do so, but use the pork fat to baste with. When done, lift it carefully and put it on a hot platter, take out the trussing needle or threads, and remove the salt pork. The best fish for baking whole are fresh shad, bass, cod, blue- fish, haddock and small salmon. Time to Bake. — This depends on the size and character of the fish, varying from ^ to 1 hour usually. A medium sized shad or cod should bake in f hour. Garnish with parsley, water^cresses or Saratoga potatoes, and serve a drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce with it. Stuffing for Baked Fish — Take 1 cup cracker crumbs, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 saltspoon of pepper, 2 teaspoons of chopped parsley, 4 ta- blespoons melted butter. If it is wanted more moist, wet the crack- er crumbs with ^ cup of warm water, or with 1 beaten egg. This makes a stuffing for a fish weighing 4 to 6 lbs. Stuffing, No. 2. — Take bread crumbs, 1 well beaten egg, 1 table- spoon choj)ped suet, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons minced onion, a little butter, pepper and salt. Stuff the fish, sew or tie up, and bake. Oyster Stuffing. — Prepare ^ pint of buttered cracker crumbs; then take 2 cups oysters, roll each one in the cracker crumbs (draining them first) and fill the fish with them; sprinkle the oysters with the balance of the crumbs, sew up the fish, and bake. Oyster Stuffing, No. 2 — Season a pint of oysters with salt, red pep per and lemon juice; fill the fish with the oysters, sew up, and bake as before directed. FILLET OF FISH. This consists of the flesh of fish, skinned, boned, and cut into small strips. (The word fillet means literally a thread or string). These strips (fillets) are usually dredged with salt and pepper, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in crumbs, and fried like doughnuts in smoking hot fat. Time to fry, 1 or 2 minutes. On taking out lay them on paper a moment to drain. Serve on fried or toasted bread, or with a good fish sauce, like cream, tartar, or Hollandaise. The strips (fillets) are sometimes allowed to stand 1 hour, sprinkled with salt, pepper and lemon juice, and then baked, having melted butter in the pan and basting the fish with it- When done, garnish and serve with a good fish sauce, FISH 57 TURBAN OF FISH. This consists of fish prepared as directed above for fillets of fish, but the fillets (strips) of fish are rolled up and fastened with a small skewer, such as a wooden tooth pick. Then fry or bake as directed for fillets and serve the same way. PICKLED OR SPICED FISH. Use remains of any cold fresh fish, remove all skin and bones, put it in a deep dish, and add enough hot, spiced vinegar (prepared by boiling cloves and allspice in the vinegar for 10 minutes) to just cover. As soon as cold it can be used. FISH AU GRATIN. Cut an onion in small pieces, and fry it in 3 tablespoons of buttpr; skin and bone 2 lbs. fish, cut it in pieces, roll and dip it in flour, and fry it in the onion and butter, in a frying pan; let only 1 side brown. Now pour over the onions and butter, 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar, 8 tablespooons beef gravy or good meat extract, 4 tablespoons of tomatoes just out of the can, and the liquor from 1 pint of oysters. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, and here and there put bits of butter. Set the platter in the oven over a pan of hot water, to prevent the dish from breaking, and bake till the crumbs are brown. Season 1 i^int of raw oysters with red pepper, salt and lemon juice; put them in a sauce=pan, and let them cook . until they puff up. Shake the i^an to keep them from burning, and when done, pour them around the fish. Shrimp or mushrooms may be used instead of oysters if more convenient. FISH BALLS. To 1 cup salt fish picked in pieces and freed from bones, take 2 cups potatoes peeled and cut in small pieces; put all in a pan togeth- er, cover with boiling water and boil till the potato is soft but not soggy — about 25 minutes. Then drain, and mash and beat till very light; add a little pepper, 1 teaspoon of butter, and, when cooled a little, 1 well beaten egg, with a little more salt if needed. Then shape it into balls with a tablespoon. In shaping them press very lightly; if x^ressed hard they will be injured or ruined. Then fry like doughnuts in smoking hot fat about 1 minute; on taking out lay them on soft paper to drain. Or, if desired, the mixture can be fried till brown in a frying pan, with salt pork fat or butter, and then turned out like an omelet. These are delicious. 58 FISH FISH CHOWDER. Take three lbs. fish cut in pieces, 4 cups sliced potatoes and ^ lb. salt pork cut in thin slices. Fry the pork in a deep kettle till brown, but not burned; then over it put a layer of fish, then a layer of pota- toes well dredged with flour, pepper and salt. Repeat alternate layers till all is used; then pour on hot water, not quite to cover, and boil till the potatoes are tender. In another saucepan heat 4 cups milk, and when the potatoes are tender add it to the chowder with one heap- ing tablespoon of butter and ^ lb. fresh Boston crackers (if stale they will spoil the chowder) having first sx^lit and soaked them a few minutes in warm milk or water Boil up once and the dish is done. The broth should be about the consistency of a thin cream soup. The best fish to use are cod, haddock or striped bass. A good way to serve it is to put the fish and potatoes on a large platter, with the crackers in a circle around, and then strain the broth and put in a soup tureen. This will make an entire dinner of itself (soup, fish and vegetables,) adding, to finish, a simple dessert or a little fruit. Time to cook about ^ hour. UTILIZING COLD FISH. CREAMED FISH. — Use remnants of any cold fish left from din- ner, picking it to pieces and removing all bones. Make a cream sauce by cooking 2 tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons flour until they bubble; then add 2 cups milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and pep- per or cayenne. Butter a pudding dish, put in a layer of fish, then a layer of the sauce, and so on alternately. Spread bread or cracker crumbs on top, add bits of butter, and bake about 20 minutes in a hot oven. A little parsley, onion or lemon juice can be added to the sauce for flavor if desired. CURRY OF FISH — Use cold boiled or baked fish of any kind; pick it to pieces and remove all bones. In a little butter fry a sliced onion till quite brown; add 1 cup hot water and 1 teaspoon curry powder ; then add 1 teaspoon of flour which has been mixed in a little cold water and freed from lumps. Then strain the sauce, put in the fish, heat till warmed through, and serve. ESCALLOPED FISH. — Use remnants of any broiled, fried or baked fish left from dinner, picking the fish to pieces and removing all bones. Into a baking dish put alternate layers of the fish, and either mashed potatoes or cold boiled potatoes cut into small piec- es. Pour over a cream sauce made as directed for " Creamed Fish," and bake in a hot oven about ^ hour. FISH 59 ESCALLOPED FISH No. 2. — Pick cold fish in pieces and remove all bones. Make a cream sauce as for "Creamed Fish." Into a pud- ding dish put a layer of fish, then a layer of bread or cracker crumbs; moisten it with the sauce, and season with salt and pepper, if needed, and put on bits of butter. Put in alternate layers in this way, fin- ishing with crumbs. Bake it in the oven till the crumbs are brown- ed on top — about 20 minutes. FISH CAKES. — Take remnants of any cold fish, pull them to piec- es, and thoroughly incorporate with them a little butter and some mashed potatoes; season the whole with pepper and salt to taste, and a little cayenne if desired. Form the mixture into cakes, and fry in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown. Serve garnished with parsley. Time to cook 1 or 2 minutes. FISH PIE — Take any cold fish left from dinner, pick it into small pieces, removing all bones, and season with pepper and salt. Have a kettle of hot mashed potatoes, put half the potatoes into the bottom of a pudding dish, spread the fish on it, and cover with the remainder of the potato. Smooth over the top and brown in the oven 10 minutes. FISH AND OYSTER PIE.— Take remnants of any cold fish, pick it in pieces, remove all bones, spread a layer in a pudding dish and sprinkle with pepper and salt; spread on a layer of bread or cracker crumbs and oysters and sprinkle with nutmeg and parsley, and so continue with alternate layers. Form a covering of either crumbs, which should be browned, or puff paste, which should be cut into long strips and laid in cross=bars over the fish, with a line of the paste first laid around the edge, and bake. Before putting on the top, pour in some melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster liquor. Time to bake, if of cooked fish, ^ hour; if made of fresh fish and puff paste, f hour. RE=DRESSED COLD FISH.— Cut the fish into square pieces, and lay them neatly in a flat dish; then cover them with mayonnaise sauce. Garnish with parsley and sliced beet-root if you have it. White fish or salmon may be dressed in this way. POTTED FISH. Clean the fish, skin it, remove the larger bones, and cut it in pieces; Mix together 3 tablespoons each of cloves, allspice and pep- percorns, 1 saltspoon of cayenne, and ^ cup of salt. Into a small stone jar (not earthenware) pack the fish in layers, sprinkling the mixture of spices between the layers. Put in vinegar enough to 60 FISH cover, tie a thick paper over the top, and bake 5 or 6 hours in a mod- erate oven. It will keep some time in a cool place (if kept under the vinegar), and can be eaten cold or hot, making a fine relish for tea or lunch. The bones will be dissolved by the vinegar. CRIMPING FISH. This consists in striking the fish on the head when caught, and then making a number of transverse gashes in it; the fish is then put in cold water which makes the muscular fibres contract strongly, and the flesh becomes firmer than would otherwise be the case. Cod are often crimped, and are then thought to be firmer, better flavored, and to keep longer than when uncrimped. CAVIAR. This is the hard roe of sturgeon and other fish preserved by washing in vinegar and salting. It is pretty extensively prepared and used as an article of food in Russia, but in this country is served principally as a relish at the table, the mode of serving it being on dry toast with lemon juice squeezed on it. It is generally disliked at first, but is highly esteemed by those in whom the taste has been cultivated. It is now quite extensively manufactured in the United States. ANCHOVIES. FRIED. — Slightly fry the little fish in their own oil; and serve them on thin fried toast. They make a nice accompaniment to the cheese course at dinner. ANCHOVIES ON TOAST.— Wash the fish in milk, dry them, remove the bones, and fillet them (each anchovy should make two fillets.) Put the fillets on nice strips of thin buttered toast, set in the oven a minute to heat, and serve. The anchovy is a small hsh of the herring tribe caught principally in the Med- iterranean sea, the best coming from the island of Gorgona. It was well known to the ancients, and they made a valued sauce from it called gareen. A large part of the anchovies put up in Europe are really sprats or pilchards, the name anchovy now indicating a peculiar method of preparing fish rather than the fish it- self. There is an American variety of the anchovy but it is mainly sold as white- bait. THE ALEWIFE. This fish can be dressed, and then fried, or sauted like brook trout. The alewife is an American fish, allied to the herring and shad. It abounds on the eastern coast of N. America, appearing in the late spring and early summer. It enters the rivers to spawn, but ascends only as far as the tide goes. Although FISH 61 inferior to the herring they are a valuable food fish. They attain a length of from 8 to 12 inches. It is the most abundant of any of our coast fishes. The Babbel belongs to the carp family and resembles the American sucker. Numerous species are found in Europe, but no true barbel is known in the United States. Thc Bleak is another European fish not found in the United States. BASS. Striped Bass. — Those weighing less than 1 lb. can be allow ed to soak 1 hour in salted water (after cleaning and dressing); then drain, wipe dry, and fry in salt pork fat. Anchovy butter is nice with them. (2) Small striped or black bass can be filleted, as previ- ously directed for filleting fish. Serve a good sauce, like tartare with them. (3) Those weighing from 1 to 3 lbs. can be broiled. (4) Those weighing 5 to 8 lbs. can be boiled as previously directed for fish. Time to boil, 20 to 30 min- utes " according to the size. (5) They can be stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (6) Very large ones can be cut in pieces and boiled, steamed, fried, or broiled as previously directed stbiped bass. for cooking fish by those meth- ods, at the beginning of this chapter. They often reach a weight of 20 lbs. Black Bass. — The smaller ones can be cooked as directed for small striped bass, and the larger ones broiled. The flesh is hard, white and flaky, but not specially flavored. This fish bears many names in different localities, being called Chub in North Carolina, Jumper in Kentucky, and Moss Bass in Indiana. Otsego Bass is a local name for Whitefish. There is much confusion in the use of the name bass, it being often applied to fish which have no claim to the title. The White Bass. — these usually weigh from 1 to 3 lbs. They are often also called perch. Cook them as directed for small striped bass. The Yellow Bass, which is often called Bar-fish in the south closely resembles the white bass in size and color, and is cooked the same. BLACKFISH, These are very nice made into fillets as previously directed for filleting fish. Serve with tartare or other good fish sauce. It makes an excellent chowder. It is also good boiled. Proceed as directed for cooking fish by these methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The blackfish is an inhabitant of the coasts of Europe, but is rare because it 62 FISH inhabits deep waters. It often attains a length of 2% feet, and a weight of 12 to 15 lbs. It is an excellent food fish. Its flesh is firni, flaky and very sweet. It is variously known as "Sea-bass," Rock«bass," "Black^Will," "Black-Harry" and "Hannahills." BONITO. This fish is best broiled or grilled as previously directed for broiling fish, at the beginning of this chapter. The bonito is found only in the Atlantic basis. It is often called "Skipjack" in the Boston market. The fish is not very common, but is a marvel of beauty and strength, and is nearly equal to the Spanish Mackerel as a food fish. The Bbill is a European fish allied to the turbot, but inferior to it as a food fish. It is not found in American waters. THE BKEAM. The American variety belongs to the species of sunfish, and is not very highly esteemed. It is best cooked as a pan=fish — that is fried or sauted in the frying pan. The European variety is much used for food. There is much confusion in the use of the name "bream," as it is applied both to a sea«fish and to several varie- ties of fresh water fish. BLUEFISH. This is excellent stuffed and baked as previously directed for baked fish, at the beginning of this chapter. Serve with it any fish sauce liked best. (2) It can be boiled as directed for boiling fish, at the beginning of this chapter. Or (3) it can be cut in steaks and fried in salt pork fat in the frying pan, or cut in pieces, egg and bread=crumbed, and fried in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown color. Garnish as directed for fried fish at the beginning of this chapter. The bluetish is an American fish, and it has never been found on the coast of Europe. It is the most destructive fish known, devouring eagerly all other varieties of fish. The size of the fish varies in different localities from 2 or 3 lbs. on the southern coast, to 15 or 20 lbs. on the northern coasts. The flesh is sweet and savory but does not keep very well. They appear on the coast from May to October. the bluefish. BUTTEEFISH. These are excellent when fresh if fried in salt pork fat in the frying pan. They can also be broiled or filleted as directed for fish at the beginning of this chapter. They are nice boiled and a good sauce served with them. The butterfish is found along the Atlantic coast from Maine to the Carolinas. They attain a length of 7 or 8 inches. Their flavor somewhat resembles the mackerel, but they are not so oily. They are excellent eating when properly FISH 63 cooked. When freshly caught their color is iridescent and beautiful, resembling the dolphin. The "Harvest=fish," "Dollar«fish," "Sheepshead," "Skipjack" and "Star=fish" are different names applied to this fish or to nearly allied species. THE CARP. Dress, and if it comes from stagnant or muddy water let it soak in salt water for an hour, or sprinkle on salt and let it stand over niglit. (1) It is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. Or (2) it can be stewed as directed previously for fish, and garnished with fried bread. (3) It is also nice fried as directed previously for fish. It may be improved by letting it soak a little while before cooking it, in vinegar flavored with thyme, parsley and nutmeg. The carp is a native of Asia, but it has been naturalized in many countries on account of its value as food. It is said to live 150 to 200 years. Its weight is from 3 or 4 lbs. at 3 years of age, to 15 or 20 lbs. at 6 or 7 years. It prefers stag- nant or slowly running waters with a muddy bottom. Its quality depends much upon its habitat. In stagnant water it tastes strongly muddy. It should then be freshened by soaking it in salted water. CATFISH. Dress and always soak it in salted water, or leave it over night with salt sprinkled on, to remove the muddy taste. (1) It can then be cooked as previously directed for "Stewed Fish." (2) Fried. Prepare it as above, then drain, dredge with flour or corn=meal, and fry in a little fat. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Wafiles are nice with this dish. (3) It is also good when steamed. (4) Cut it in pieces and fry it in smoking hot fat, proceeding as directed for cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of this chapter, CATFISH CHOWDER.— Dress the fish and let it soak a little while in salted water. Then boil it, (in just enough water to cover it) until tender. Take out the largest bones, chop the fish, and put it into a stew pan; add 2 cups hot water, 1 cup milk or cream, 2 tablespoons of butter, 1 onion, 1 teaspoon mustard, salt, pepper and ^ teacup wal- ^^^ catfish. nut catsup; stew till thick and serve hot. Garnish with sliced lemon. The catfish is a species of the family siluridae and is found in American rivers ■ and lakes. The common catfish or horned pout of the eastern states attains a • length of 7 to 9 inches, but in the west and in the great lakes they sometimes grow to a length of 4 feet and attain a weight of 50 to 150 lbs. ^' The Bull-head" ^^ Bull'pout^^ and ^^ Horned-pouV of the eastern states is the common representative of the catfish in those regions. They are detested by those 64 FISH ■who do not like them, but that is partly, at least, owing to not cooking them prop- erly. When well cooked they are very palatable, resembling the eel in texture and flavor. Many of our common fish are not appreciated as they deserve to be for food. THE CHAR. The char belongs to the same species and is very similar to the trout. The method of cooking is the same. It is a delicious food fish. (See Trout.) THE CHUB. This is best fried in the frying=pan after being caught, as direct- ed for frying fish at the beginning of this chapter. The chub is closely related to the dace and minnows. It reaches a length of 10 or 12 inches and rarely attains a weight of 5 lbs. There are many American spe- cies, but they are not highly esteemed for food. CODFISH. When fresh, the cod is excellent stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It is excellent also stewed or fried, as directed for fish. (3) It is nice boiled whole as directed for other fish, but if boiled quite fresh it is apt to be watery; it is rendered firmer by being salted a little. If a large cod is boiled whole the upper part is so much thicker than the tail that the latter may be boiled to rags before the rest is cooked. The head and shoulders are therefore generally boiled; the rest may be fried, or stewed in slices. (4) Cold boiled cod is very nice creamed, curried or escal- loped as directed for preparing fish in these ways, at the beginning of this chapter. CODFISH BALLS — Make as previously directed for "Fish Balls." ESCALLOPED CODFISH — If salt codfish is used, freshen it by soaking it in water or sour milk. Then proceed as previously di- rected for " Escalloped Fish." BROILED SALT CODFISH.— Soak it | hour in cold water, dry, and broil 10 or 12 minutes over a moderate fire. Put it on a warm platter and spread on butter, cutting it in several places to let the butter penetrate the fish, and serve. CODFISH TOAST — Shred 1 teacup nice salt codfish, and soak it over night in cold water. In the morning thicken 2 cups milk slightly with flour, add 1 well beaten egg, and boil ^ hour; then add the codfish (which should have been well drained in a colander) and let it boil 5 minutes longer, and spread it over nice well but- tered toast; serve hot. FISH 65 SALT CODFISH OMELET.— Soak a piece of codfish about 3 inches square over night. Split 3 crackers and lay them in enough cold water to cover them. Pick the fish up fine and mix well with the crackers, and add 1 well beaten egg, 1 tablespoon of butter, and salt and pepper. Take 2 cups milk and 1 teaspoon of corn=starch and boil 5 minutes, and pour it over the other ingredients. Bake 20 min utes. CODFISH TONGUES — Wash them thoroughly in cold water and then boil them in slightly salted water. When done, drain them, arrange them on a napkin on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Serve cream sauce with them. Time to boil about ^ hour. COD SOUNDS.— These usually come salted. Soak them all night in cold water, then scrape and rub off the dark skin with a cloth, wash thoroughly, and then boil them very gently in equal parts of fresh milk and water until tender. Be careful to remove the scum as it rises. Serve them on a hot napkin with egg sauce. Time to boil about | hour per pound. SCROD. — This is a term applied in the east to small cod. They can soak over night in salted water and then be boiled or fried, as previously directed for fish at the beginning of this chapter. TOMCODS. — These are small codfish. They are nice fried as follows. Do not remove the heads, but dress, clean, dry, and rub salt on the inside. Dredge with flour and fry a golden brown in deep, smoking hot fat. (2) They can also be baked. Dress as above, put in the baking pan, put a thin slice of bacon on each one, add pepper and salt, and bake in a hot oven. Time to bake about 20 minutes. Serve with slices of lemon. They are sometimes called "Tommies." The Codfish is found in the northern Atlantic, but is not known in the Med- iterranean sea. It is the most important of our food fishes. Cod tongues, and sounds, {i. e. airbladders) are esteemed a delicacy, and are often salted for the market. Cod is less digestible than most other white fish, and is hardly suitable for invalids, being more difficult of digestion than is commonly imagined. DACE. This is nice either fried in the frying-pan (sauted), or broiled, as directed for cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of this chapter. * The dace is common in western Europe, but it is not very highly esteemed for food. There are many allied species in the United States, as the horned dace found in clear streams in the east which attains a length of 10 or 12 inches. The " horns" develop on the males in the breeding season, but are absent at other times. 66 FISH The John Doby is a marine fish found on the coasts of Europe. It has a large head with a black spot on each side, and it attains a length of 18 inches. The French Canadians apply the name to a species of pike. It is not found in America. , THE DEUM. The young make a fine pan=fisli, i. e. fried in the frying pan. The large ones are not much esteemed for food. The drum derives its name from the drumming noise which it makes. It is found on the gulf coast and as far north as Maryland. When young and fresh the flavor is agreeable, but the flesh is coarse though tender. EELS. Eels should always be skinned, and the head cut off and thrown away. They can then be washed dried, and cut into lengths about 3 inches long. They are sometimes allowed to then soak a short time in a little water and vinegar, which improves them. They can then be fried, as previously directed for frying fish, in deep smoking hot fat. Serve tomato, pickle or any acid sauce with them. They can also be broiled, stewed or boiled as directed for cook- ing fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. • THE FLOUNDER. This is nice fried. Scrape the fish, cut off the head and tail, wash, dry, and fry as directed for frying fish. Time to fry about 6 or 7 minutes. They are often broiled as directed for fish at the beginning of this chapter. They make nice fillets also. Serve a good fish sauce with the latter. The Floundeb is found along the Atlantic coast from Cape Cod to Florida. They lie upon the bottom or bury them- selves in the sand. They attain a length of 12 to 30 inches, and a weight of 2 to 8 lbs. It is a flat fish having both eyes on the same side of the head. The upper side is darker than the lower. They live long out of the water. The flounder is easy of digestion, but is best broiled when intended for weak stomachs. CONGEE EEL. FLOUNDEB. FROGS. The hind legs only are used. Skin and put them for 3 minutes in boiling salted water containing a little lemon juice; then drain and wipe dry. Fry the fat from 2 or 3 slices of thin salt pork; dip FISH 67 the frogs' legs in beaten egg and then in flour, and fry a delicate brown. Or (2) dip them in bread crumbs, then season with pepper and salt, dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry a golden brown in smoking hot fat. (3) If preferred they can be broiled. Or (4) stew them in a little water seasoned with salt, pepper and herbs; stew until tender, then let the water boil out, put in a bit of butter and let them brown. Serve with parsley, water^cresses or pepper^grass and lettuce. (5) Frogs' legs are also made into a broth the same as chicken broth. Seventy years ago, Charles Lamb wrote to a friend: "Since I saw you I have been in France and have eaten frogs, the nicest little rabbity things you ever tast- ed. Pick off the hind=quarters; boil them plain, and serve with parsley and butter.'' THE GRAYLING. This belongs to the same species as the trout. It is found in Europe and America, but is con- fined to special localities. It is a very gamey fish, and is deli- cious eating. It is cooked in the same ways as brook trout (which see). the geayling. The Gudgeon is a European fish belonging to the carp family. It is not com- mon in the U. S. GURNARD. The large ones can be boiled, or stewed, or stuffed and baked, as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. Small ones can be broiled or fried, as directed for fish, at the beginning of this chapter. The gurnard is much eaten in Europe, but is neglected in America. The flesh is a flaky white, firm, and most agreeable eating. It deserves more attention. HADDOCK. When fresh the haddock is very nice (1) broiled or (2) stuffed or (3) baked. It is also good (4) boiled or (5) steamed, or (6) fried, and (7) it makes a splendid chowder. (8) It is also nice filleted. Proceed as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. Smoked haddock, if very salt, should be soaked 1 or 2 hours in water. Then the simplest and best way to cook it is to broil it over a clear fire. Time to boil 1 to 10 minutes according to its thickness. Rub on butter before sending it to the table. It can also be boiled, or boiled a short time and then baked. 68 FISH DRIED HADDOCK, STEWED-^Warm the haddock before the fire just enough to make the skin peel off easily, Cut it into pieces down the middle, and 2 or 3 times across. Put it into a closed saucepan, with a lump of butter and a teaspoon of water and stew gently a few minutes. The haddock is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and immense quantities are now caught. Their average length is about 10 to 1.5 inches, and their weight 3 or 4 lbs. although they sometimes attain a weight of 12 or 15 lbs. When very large its flesh is coarse. It does not take salt as well as the cod, although it belongs to the same family, and it is often smoked and dried. It is in season from October to January. It is wholesome, nutritious, and easy of diges- tion. HAKE. This fish is not often eaten except when salted, but it is some- times (1) boiled, or (2) stuffed and baked, or (3) stewed, or (4) made into fillets, the methods being the same as directed for other fish at the beginning of this chapter. When salted and dried it much resembles codfish, and is often sold for it. The method of cooking is the same. The hake belongs to the cod family and is found in the North Atlantic. It is sometimes 3 or 4 feet in length. Its flesh is white and flaky.^ THE HAKE. THE HALIBUT. This excellent fish is nice either (1) baked, (2) broiled, (3) boiled, (4) steamed, or (5) made into fillets, as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. (6) When cold it is excellent creamed or prepared by the other recipes given for cold fish at the beginning of this chapter. HALIBUT STEAKS— Fry the fat thoroughly from 4 thick slices of clear salt pork; take out the pork when crisp; roll the steaks in flour or yellow corn=meal, and put in the pan; fry over a hot fire, but do not scorch; when done on one side, turn carefully with a fish or pie knife, and when done, have both sides a golden brown. Place the fish on a platter; send to the table, with cream gravy made in the pan after taking up the fish. Serve with cucumber pickles. HALIBUT, PICKLED— Take a piece of cold boiled halibut, put it in a bowl and pour over it hot vinegar in which has been boiled for 8 or 10 minutes a little red pepper and 1 blade of mace; let it stand 2 days before using. FISH 69 The halibut is emphatically a cold ■water fish, being found in the north Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It is the largest of the cold water fish, sometimes attaining a weight of 300 lbs.' Those weighing 30 to 40 lbs. are best. Its eyes are both on the same side of the head, and it is dark on the upper and white on the lower side. The flesh is white and firm, but dry. It is high- ly esteemed for food, but is not equal to the turbot. T5E HALIBUT. THE HEKKING. Fresh herrings are excellent either (1) broiled or grilled, or (2) baked, or (3) boiled, or (4) fried, or (5) made into fillets, as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. SMOKED HERRING, BROILED.— Let them stand 10 minutes covered with boiling water. Then skin, wipe dry, and broil them over clear coals. Put them on a warm dish, moisten with butter, and serve. Time to broil, about 7 or 8 minutes. The herring is the most important food fish known. Enormous quantities are caught every year. It is eaten fresh, and is smoked, dried and pickled. It is very oily, and not very digestible, but it is exceedingly nutritious. The so called her- ring of the great lakes is a kind of whitefish. Bloatek is an English name applied to herring prepared for the market by slightly salting, smoke-drying, etc. THE LAMPREY. The lamprey is like a very tough eel. It can be cooked like eel, only it requires to cook longer, (See eel.) The lamprey is an eel=like fish, having a car- tilagenous body, without scales, and a round, sucking mouth with numerous teeth. It is found in Europe, and there are several species in the U. S. They are very tenaceous of life, and are prized by some for food. THE LAMPEEY. LING, CUSK OR BURBOT The ling is caught in the northern seas, and it is a fish belong- ing to the same family as the cod and hake, which it much resembles. It can be (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed, treating it the same as the cod, and (4) it makes a good soup. The fish is wholesome and nutritious, although not much used fresh. It takes salt well, and large quantities are prepared for the market. It is also dried. Cusk, Burbot and Eel-pout are other names for the same or very similar fish. 70 FISH MACKEKEL. This fish is excellent if eaten fresh, but it spoils easily. In dressing and cleaning be careful not to break the skin. One of the best ways to cook it is to broil it. Time to broil, 15 to 20 minutes. (2) It is excellent steamed, and many people can eat it that way who cannot when broiled. It is also good (3) when boiled or (4) fried or or (5) filleted, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. PICKLED MACKEREL — Boil fresh mackerel. Then take the liquor it was cooked in, add 1 cup vinegar, ^ oz. whole black pepper, 2 bay leaves, and boil all 7 or 8 minutes; pour it over the mackerel, cover tightly, and let stand 24 hours, when it will be ready for use. BROILED SALT MACKEREL.— Take a medium sized salt mack- erel and soak it over night in cold water. In the morning dry it, rub on a little butter, and broil it nicely, but not too long. When done, plunge it into boiling water a moment, which makes it swell up and look fat. Then put it on a hot plate, add a little melted but- ter, lemon juice and pepper, and serve. CREAMED SALT MACKEREL — Soak the fish over night, and wipe dry the next morning; heat the gridiron, butter it, and broil the fish over a clear fire; lay it on a hot platter while you make a sauce as follows: Heat 1 cup of milk to near boiling, and thicken it with 2 teaspoons of corn-starch rubbed smooth in 2 teaspoons of butter; add salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, and when taken from the stove and partly cool, stir in 1 beaten egg; then pour it over the fish and serve. A nice breakfast dish in hot weather. . The mackerel is found in the northern Atlantic, and immense quantities are used as food. Its usual length is about 16 to 18 inches, and its weight 2 lbs. It is very nourishing although difficult of digestion by weak stomachs. The " Spanish Maokebel '' is caught on the Atlantic coast, but it is not very highly esteemed for food. THE MENHADDEN. This fish is best (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, proceed- ing as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The menhadden belongs to the same family as the shad and herring, and is extensively caught along the Atlantic coast of the U. S. It is not much eaten fresh, as it is full of bones and very oily. It is now put up and sold for sardines, the bones being softened by steam. THE MULLET. This fish frequently has an earthy taste. That can be removed, as in other fish, by soaking it in salted water for an hour or two, or FISH 71 sprinkle on salt and leave it over night. It can then be stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It can also be split and broiled. Or (3) it may be fried, or (4) filleted. It is sometimes (5) boiled or (6) steamed, proceeding as directed for fish at the be- ginning of this chapter. Mullet Roes are often eaten raw and they are also salted and dried in the sun. They are then eaten raw like dried beef, or they can be fried. The mullet is found in both Europe and the U. S. The red mullet of Europe is considered the best. The mullet is very plentiful along the gulf coast of the U. S., and two varieties are found, the Striped and White. It attains an average length of about a foot and stbiped mullet. weight of about 1^^ lbs. MUSKELLUNGE. (1) This fish is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It is often cut in pieces the right size for the table, rolled in corn meal, and fried in smoking hot fat like doughnuts, until of a rich golden brown. (3) It is also often fried in the frying=pan in salt pork fat, and garnished with the crisp slices of pork. It can also be (4) stewed as directed for stewing fish at the beginning of this chapter. The muskellunge belongs to the pike family, and is found in the Great Lakes and the St. Lawrence river. The flesh is superior to that of any of the rest of the species of pike. It is sometimes called " lake trout." THE PEKCH. To facilitate removing the scales it may be plunged into boiling water for a moment. It is in America quite generally fried in the frying pan with salt pork fat. (2) It is nice fried in deep fat as previously directed for frying fish. (3) It is also good broiled or (4) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginidng of this chapter. The true perch is the common yellow perch of Europe and America. In re- gions where the true perch is not found the name is loosely applied to various fishes. All the true perches are confined to the north temperate zone. This fish loves still waters and is very voraceous and tenaceous of life. The flesh is firm, of good flavor and digestible. PICKEKEL. This fish is cooked in the same ways as pike, (which see V ; The pickerel is a diminutive pike. It is rarely more than a foot in ' >v it somietimes attains a weight of 5 to 8 lbs. The flesh is the same as In the southern states it is called the " Jack." 72 FISH PIKE. This fish should be carefully scaled and cleaned. It is very nice stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It can also be boiled or (3) fried or (4) stewed or (5) filleted, as pre- viously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The flesh is much esteemed for food, - r5 1^-J"^'^^^^^ __2 r__'^^ ^^g^E'^^ although it is rather dry. Those of ^^^^--- ^= = -^=-=-- mioderate size are better than very ^^^ pike. large ones. The roe of the pike is miade into caviare, and in some countries the flesh is dried and salted. THE PLAICE. This is an excellent fish, the best being those with a thick, firm body. Large fish should be skinned, but small ones need not be, but it is best to remove the head and fins, and clean thoroughly. The fish is excellent (1) boiled, or (2) baked, or (3) broiled, or (4) fried, and (5) it is very nice steamed. (6) Small ones are proba- bly best fried or baked. Proceed as directed for cooking fish by these various methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The plaice belongs to the same family as the flounder and turbot. It is a flat fish having both eyes on the same side of the head. It seeks sandy and muddy bottoms, and attains a weight of 6 to 12 lbs. It is light, digestible, and when fresh has a delicate flavor. Invalids can eat it without fear. THE PORGY. This fish is found along the southern Atlantic coasts, It is best fried in the frying pan, with salt pork fat. RED SNAPPER. This fish is best (1) boiled, or (2) stuffed and baked as previous- ly directed for cooking fish by those methods. (3) It also makes an excellent chowder. Medium sized fish will boil in 80 to 40 minutes, while to bake them will take about 1 hour. Snapper is a name applied to several different fish in the U. S. The red snap- per is a fish found along the gulf coast of the U. S. It resemibles the porgy and is highly esteemed for food. THE POLLOCK OR COALFISH. This fish is found in the north Atlantic and belongs to the same family as the cod and whiting. Owing to an unwise pre- judice it is very much underestimated as food. Some who have in- vestigated the subject say that they prefer it, when salted, to cod. FISH 73 It is rather deficient in flavor, but makes a gooa curry. It can be cooked by any of the recipes given elsewhere for codfish. THE POMPANO. This fish can be (1) broiled, or (2) baked or (3) boiled or (4) steamed or (6) filleted, as directed for cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. The potnpano is found both on the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. It ap- pears chiefly in the summer and fall. There are several varieties. The flesh is fat, rich and delicious, being consid- ered the best of all the food fishes, and they usually command a very high price. THE POMPANO, THE RAY OR SKATE. This fish can be either (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed or (4) curried, as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, The Skate is a species of the Ray family. THE ROACH. This fish is probably best (1) fried, but (2) is also good baked.' (if baked, be sure and baste it welL) (3) It can also be stewed, or (4) filleted, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The roach belongs to the same family as the carp, dace, etc. It is common to both Europe and America. The name is applied in America to several species of fish, and sometimes to sunfish. FISH ROES. The hard, yellow, granular roe is the spawn or eggs of fish, and comes from the female, and the soft whitish roe is the milt, which comes from the male. ¥or frying (either the hard or the soft) wash them, then parboil by putting them for 10 minutes in boiling salted water containing 1 tablespoon of vinegar; then take out, plunge in cold water, drain, egg and bread=crumb, and fry in hot fat till a nice brown. They are also sometimes sautSd or fried in a frying- pan, being first cut in slices ^ inch thick and egg and bread-crumbed. FISH ROES, BAKED — Parboil them in* slightly salted water for 10 minutes; then drain them on a cloth, lay them on thin slices of breakfast=bacon in a baking=tin, place thin slices of bacon over the roe, and set it in a hot oven until the 'bacon is baked crisp and brown. Serve with any one of the fish sauces preferred. 74 FISH FISH ROES, BOILED.— Boil them in slightly salted water for 30 minutes; if small, they will cook in less time. Do not let them break in pieces. In the meantime make a nice butter gravy, add to it a very little chopped parsley, and pour it over the roe, after plac- ing it on a hot platter. FISH ROES, BROILED.— Parboil the roes for 10 or 15 minutes in slightly salted water to harden them, drain on a cloth, and wipe them dry; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire of coals until well browned on both sides; place them on a hot platter, spread them with butter, or pour over them any fish sauce preferred. The fecundity of fish has always excited the wonder of naturalists. The males have the ')nilt, and the females the roe. The greater number deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel, but some of those who dwell in the depths of the ocean attach their eggs to sea=weeds. According to Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawn up- wards of 9,000,000 of eggs; the flounder 1,000,000, the sturgeon 700,000; the perch 400,000 the mackerel 500,000; the herring 10,000. Pish roes form a cheap and ap- petizing dish for those who like them. SALMON. Probably the two best ways of cooking salmon are by (1) broiling, or (2) boiling. (3) Salmon steaks are very nice broiled, steamed or fried. (4) Fillets of salmon are nice fried; or first parboiled or steamed, and then stewed in a good brown or matelote sauce. In cooking salmon by the above methods proceed as directed for cook- ing fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. Cold Salmon, may be prepared by any of the various recipes giv- en for cold fish at the beginning of this chapter. Salmon is nice spiced, as directed in our recipe for spiced nsh previously given. SALMON CUTLETS. — Cut slices of salmon ^ inch thick, remove skin and bone, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on flour, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Or they can be fried in a frying-pan. SALMON STEAKS. — Salmon steaks are good broiled and served with piccalilli heated and piled in the middle, and with a hot sauce poured round, but not over the fish. A very simple but delicious way of cooking salmoiij is to cut it in slices, and grill it, serving it at once with a good squeeze of lemon juice, and a dust of cayenne on each side. Large Trout cooked in the same way are equally good. SALMON TOAST.— Soak 2 oz. of bread crumbs in cold milk, and mix with a can of salmon which has been worked to a paste. FISH 75 Add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, season with salt, pepper, a little nut- meg, and the grated peel of ^ a lemon. Put into a dish, and on the top place beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a moderate oven, and when the top is slightly brown, it is ready to serve. CANNED SALMON. — A good way to serve it for breakfast, is to heat it, add pepper and salt to season, and serve on slices of toast, pouring over milk, thickened with flour and butter. Another way to use canned salmon is to put the can for about 20 minutes in a kettle of hot water; then turn it into a dish, and pour on drawn butter, to which finely cut hard boiled eggs and chopped parsley has been added; eat with mashed potatoes. SALMON, GERMAN STYLE.— Take 2 pints sauerkraut, boil, drain, pile it on a dish, and make a hole in the center; have 1 lb. hot canned salmon ready, put it in the hole; heat and season the salmon liquid, pour it over the dish and serve. SMOKED SALMON, BROILED.— Smoked salmon is nice washed, drained, and broiled nicely. Then put it on a warm dish, spread on butter, and serve. The Salmon is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. There are many, varieties. Although the fish is considered most delicious when fresh, it is said to be more 'wholesome when kept 1 or 2 days. It is very nutritious, but should be eaten in moderation. SAKDINES. These are nice broiled. Do not break them in taking from the can. Scrape off the skin carefully, and broil to a delicate brown between double wire broilers. Then put them in a hot dish and serve with lemon juice squeezed over them. They are also nice with orange juice. To serve sardines, the oil can be drained from them, and then place them on any small ornamental dish. Some people cover them with fresh olive oil, and others do not, as tastes differ. They can be garnished with parsley, pepper=grass or lettuce. Set a dish of quartered lemons near them. SARDINES ON TOAST.- -Take 3 eggs, 3 sardines, 3 slices of buttered toast. Bone the sardines and pound them in a mortar with a pinch of salt, a little pepper, and cayenne. Spread this paste on the hot buttered toast. Heat ^ pint of cream, and, when hot, add the eggs well beaten with a Dover beater. Stir well until almost boiling; then pour it over the sardines and toast, and send to the table. Sufficient for 3 persons. 76 FISH Sardines belong to the same order as the herring. They abound in the Medi- terranean, and are also found in parts of the Atlantic. They appear in shoals, are caught with nets, and are salted, dried, soaked in boiling oil and put into boxes and covered with oil. A good many of the fish sold as sardines are really sprats, cured and preserved in the same way. A variety named anchovied sardines are sardines that have been cured in red wine. Sardines are very wholesome, and fur- nish an agreeable addition to the table. THE SCUPPAUG. The scup, or scuppaug, is very abundant in the eastern market in some seasons. (1) Small ones are best fried in the frying- pan. (2) Large ones can be broiled, and a rich sauce served with them. The flesh is rather dry, and flavorless. THE SCUPPAUG. SHAD. This fish is probably best broiled. The fish is apt to be dry. The secret of having it juicy is to rub it with melted butter or salad oil before broiling it. Then broil it over a clear coal fire, It will take 20 or 30 minutes. When done, spread with butter, salt and pepper. A cream or bechamel sauce is often served with it. (2) Many people prefer this fish baked StufP and bake it as directed for baking fish. It will take from 1 to 1^ hours to bake, Dressing for Baked Shad. — Boil up the gravy in which the shad was baked, put in a large tablespoon of browned flour which has been wet with a little cold water, and the juice of 2 lemons. Pour it around the fish after it is placed on the platter, or serve it in a sauce= boat. (3) It is also nice fried, proceeding as directed for frying fish, at the beginning of this chapter. (4) It is sometimes potted. See our recipe for potting fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. The shad is found only in the northern hemisphere. The American shad is best. They attain a length of 2 to 3 feet, and weight of 4 to 8 lbs. SHEEPSHEAD. This fish is excellent boiled. Proceed as previously directed for boiling fish. (2) It is probably best steamed. Take a medium sized fish, dress, clean, rub with a little salt, wrap it in a cloth and then steam. Time to steam, about 1 hour. Then garnish with parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter or other good fish FISH 77 sauce. (3) It is excellent broiled. Split it in two lengthwise, remove tlie head and backbone, rub on butter or salad oil, and broil over a clear fire. When done spread on butter, add salt and pepper, and squeeze on lemon juice, and serve. (4) It is also nice stuiled and baked as directed previously for baking fish, at the beginning of this chapter. The sheepshead is found in the ■warm- er waters of the Atlantic, south of Cape Cod. It sometimes exceeds 2 feet in length, and weighs 14 or 1.5 lbs., but its average weight is 5 or 6 lbs. Its flesh is very delicate and has been likened to the English turbot, and is one of the best of our food fish. THE SHEEPSHEAD. SMELTS. Smelts, small trout, and all small pan fish are better dressed with scissors than with a knife. BAKED SMELTS.— This 'delicious little fish is of a fine silvery appearance, with a light fawn=colored shade on the back, and when fresh, has an odor resembling cucumbers. Wash and dry them with a cloth; arrange them in a buttered flat baking dish; cover them with a layer of fine, fresh bread crumbs, first sprinkling the fish with a little salt and white pepper; place bits of butter over the bread crumbs and bake until a nice brown, say 20 or 30 minutes. Send to the table in the dish in which they were baked; squeeze the juice of a lemon over them just before sending to the table. FRIED SMELTS.— They may be fried in a little butter after the manner of cooking small trout, or in the fat of a slice of salt pork; or they may be strung, 6 on a wire skewer, dipped in egg and then cracker crumbs, and cooked in boiling fat like doughnuts. Sauce tartare is nice with them when fried. So is anchovy, cucumber, or other good sauce. BROILED. — Clean, split, and broil them nicely in a double wire broiler. Serve sauce tartare with them, or slices of lemon. The smelt is found in both Europe and America, and belongs to the same family as the trout and salmon. Most of the species inhabit salt water, but some are found in fresh. The flesh is very delicate. The Sole. — The English sole is from 10 to 20 inches long and weighs from 1 to 10 lbs. It is a flat fish like the turbot, and its flesh is much esteemed. In America the name is often applied to the "Hog=choker," "Calico" or "Cover- slip," a fish which is not used for food. 78 FISH. THE SQUETEAGUE OB WEAKFISH. SPKATS. DRIED SPRATS. — Let them stand for 10 minutes covered with boiling water; then skin, wipe dry, and broil them over a clear fire. Serve them on a warm dish with butter spread over them. Time to broil about 8 minutes Fresh sprats are also best when broiled; serve with lemon juice squeezed on. They are also sometimes fried. The sprat is a small herring seldom over 6" inches long. It is often dried or salted. THE SQUETEAGUE. This fish is excellent (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted. The larger ones can be (4) boiled or (5) steamed, or (6) stuffed and baked, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The squeteague is found along the Atlantic Coast from Cape Cod to Florida. It attains a weight from 1 to 8 or 10 lbs. The flesh is soft, delicately flavored and is highly esteemed. It is often called " Weakfish." STURGEON. The flesh from a medium sized fish will be found more tender and better than that of a very large one. (1) Small ones can be skinned, and then stuffed and baked as previously directed for bak- ing fish. (2) Steaks cut from sturgeon can be broiled, or (8) small cutlets can be cut out and fried, or (4) the flesh can be stewed as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. (5) The flesh is sometimes allowed to soak in the marinade given at the be- ginning of this chapter before being broiled. This fish requires more thor- ough cooking than almost any other kind. Its flesh is more like meat than that of any other fish. The sturgeon is found in both Europe and America. It is shark like in form, and has strong fins but no scales. The flesh is a pale red, very wholesome and agreeable, and the flesh of the back tastes like veal, while the flank is more like pork. It is found in the markets from April to Sep- tember. STUKGEON. SUCKERS. These should be dressed, and allowed to lie in salted water for 1 FISH 79 or 2 hours, or with salt sprinkled on over night, to remove the earthy taste. Then they can be either (1) stewed or (2) fried, or (3) broiled, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. Many people have a prejudice against these fish and will not eat them, but if properly cooked they are good, and as a food supply they are too much ignored. SUNFISH. These are usually fried in the frying*pan (sauted) in salt pork fat. They can also be (2) filleted or (3) broiled. Serve with lem- on juice squeezed on. Proceed as directed at the beginning of this chapter for cooking fish by those methods. SWOKDFISH. The flesh of this fish is usually cut into steaks, and either (1) broiled or (2) boiled; it can also be (3) stewed or (4) steamed, pro- ceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. The swordfish ranges from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. It is from 10 to 15 feet long, and a rapid swimmer. The flesh is rather coarse and oily, but the flavor is good. THE TAUTOG. This fish can be either (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, or (4) boiled or (5) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. The tautog is found along the At- lantic coast of the U. S. It appears from April to November. Its average weight is about 2 lbs., but it sometimes weighs 10 to 15 lbs. The flesh is white, dry and delicate in flavor, and is much esteemed. THE TATJTOG. The Thobnbagk is a fish very abundant along some parts of the English coast and highly esteemed for food. It is not found in the United States. The Tunny is a large fish belonging to the same family as the mackerel, and the "horse mackerel" is nearly allied to it. It is found in the Mediterranean and Black seas as well as in the Atlantic, and although esteemed for food in Europe it is seldom or never eaten in America. BROOK TROUT. In dressing trout the head, tail and fins should not be removed, but cut the fish open and scrape out the insides. The sportsman's way of cooking perfectly fresh trout is to dress them, rub table salt inside, and fry in the frying-pan in smoking hot 80 FISH salt pork fat. (2) As the fish comes to the city market it is best to broil it nicely over a declining fire. Season it with salt, pepper, a little lemon juice and butter, and serve on hot plates. (3) Those weighing 1 lb. or more can be stuffed and baked as previously di- rected for baking fish. Time to bake 20 to 30 minutes. This method is not common, but the fish are good thus prepared. (4) When many are received and there is danger that some may spoil they can be boiled in water seasoned with lemon juice, whole peppers, mace and salt, and then they can be served at luncheon, or prepared as previously directed for any cold fish, at the beginning of this chapter. Trout au Bleu. — Take some freshly caught trout; clean and wipe them; put them in a sauce-pan, and pour over them a pint of boiling vinegar, which immediately turns them blue; then add a pint of water to cover the fish ; add 4 bay leaves, salt and pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, the peel of a lemon, half a head of celery, a carrot, and a small bunch of parsley; cover and boil ^ hour. Serve with fish sauce, or oil and vinegar. The trout is found in most northern countries and is a fresh water fish. It is very voraceous and agil, and 20 species are known in America. It is a delicious food fish. In the south the name is sometimes erroneously applied to black bass, etc. TURBOT. In choosing turbot the medium sized are best, and those with yellowish=:white rather than bluish-white flesh. Soak the fish in salted water 1 hour to facilitate removing the slime, or, if in a hurry, rub with salt and wash in several waters. The fins are not removed as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a delicacy, but they may be trimmed. Red spots on the white side can be removed by rubbing them with salt and lemon juice. The skin becomes gelatin- ous when cooked, and is highly esteemed, but is rather indigestible. Unlike most fish it is better if kept for a day or two. If boiled, a gash through the skin down the back will keep the skin on the belly from cracking when it begins to swell in cooking. It is often boiled. Dress and prepare it as above and then boil as previously directed for boiling fish. Time to boil 15 to 20 min- utes for small fish, and 20 to 30 for larger ones. Then garnish and serve with a good fish sauce. It can also be (2) stuffed and baked, or (3) fried, or (4) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish by those methods. Cold remnants of the fish are nice prepared by any of the recipes given previously for cooking cold fish, at the beginning of this chapter. ' ;y»»!WllBi»miB~-. TimeoT CR«^8 OYST6RS mi ED SMELTS FISH 81 FRIED TURBOT.— Cut some remnants of boiled turbot into neat pieces, steep tliem in a marinade of lemon juice, oil, pepper and salt, for 1 or 2 hours, then dip them in batter and fry them a golden brown in plenty of hot fat. The turbot is found on the northern Atlantic coast of the U. S. It is a flat fish like the flounder and halibut, having the upper side dark and the underside light. It attains a weight of 2 to 20 lbs. The flesh is highly esteemed for food. TUEBOT. The Tenoh is a fish belonging to the same family as the carp. It is foand in Europe and Asia, but not in the U. S. It is highly esteemed for food. , WHITEFISH. This fish is splendid broiled. Cut it in two lengthwise, take out the backbone, cut each half in two, rub on butter or salad oil, and broil nicely over a moderate fire. Time about 10 minutes. Serve on a hot dish with butter spread on, salt and pepper added, and lemon juice sqeezed over. Garnish to taste. It is also nice (2) boiled, or (3) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. Cold Remnants can be prepared by any of the recipes given for utilized cold fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. The whitefish belongs to the same family as the salmon and trout. It is found in the northern parts of America. It sometimes attains a weight of 10 lbs. and a length of 2 feet or more. The flesh is a bluish white, turning pure white when boiled. It is one of the best of the summer fishes. WHITING. This fish is excellent fried in a frying=pan with salt pork fat or butter. It can also be (2) broiled or (3) filleted as directed for cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. The whiting is found along the southern Atlantic coast of the U. S. Its flesh is sweet and hard, but soon looses its delicate flavor. WEAKFISH. Same as squeteague, which see. WHITEBAIT. The whitebait is the name given in England to young herring not over 6 inches long. They are usually rolled in flour and fried in deep, smoking hot fat. They are considered very choice. They ap- pear after April and during the summer months. 6 SHELL=FISH. NDER the head of shell=fish we include oysters, clams, crabs, lobsters, shrimps, prawns, mussels, crayfish, scollops, and terrapin or turtle. Of the shell^fish, oysters are the most valuable, not only for their flavor, but for the ease with which they can be taken by invalids, and for the nutritious qualities they possess. Lobsters and clams are more difiicult of digestion, but are much liked by many persons. Lobsters and clams should be perfectly fresh, as many cases of illness have been caused by eating them after decomposition has begun. All shelhfish should be kept near ice both before and after being cooked, if there is a remainder after the meals, except in cold and freezing weather. CLAMS. Clams are good during the months when oysters are not in sea- son — those without an " r," May to August. If only eaten when fresh, they are wholesome. CLAMS AU QRATIN— Chop all the hard part of uncooked clams; to a cup of clams add a cup of fine cracker or bread crumbs, reserving a little for the top of the mixture before it is placed in the oven; add also to the chopped clams a dessertspoon of chopped onion, a small teaspoon of marjoram and sage, a little chopped celery, some cayenne and salt; moisten all with the broth of the clams; fill but- tered shells with the mixture, sprinkle crumbs over the top, with some bits of butter, and place in a hot oven for 20 minutes; garnish with parsley when served. CLAM CHOWDER — Take 1 quart of clams and chop them fine; 6 large fresh crackers, 1 onion, sliced, 6 potatoes, cut in dice. In an iron pot fry 2 slices of salt pork; fake it out soon, leaving the fat in the pot; put in 2 or 3 slices of onion, then a layer of potatoes, then a layer of the chopped clams, sprinkle well with salt and pepper; then a layer of the onion, then the bits of fried pork, cut into small pieces; add a layer of broken crackers; put in the remainder in the same way; then add the clam liquor, and enough w'ater to more than cover them. Cook 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are done; add 2 cups hot milk just before serving. Sufficient for 8 persons. 82 SHELL:=FISH 83 ESCALLOPED CLAMS — Scald the clams, remove the hard part and chop the rest. Make a soup of the liquor, with enough water added to make it fresh enough; thicken it and make sufficiently rich with butter. Butter a scalloped dish, strew the bottom with bread or cracker crumbs, moisten them with the soup, then spread a layer of clams seasoned with pepper, and continue alternately till the dish is full, the last layer being crumbs moistened with soup. Bake ^ hour, and serve at once. ROAST CLAMS. — Scrub the shells, wash well, drain, and put them in a dripping^^pan. Set them in a hot oven and as soon as the shells open serve them on the half shell, or in the whole shell, with salt, pepper, and slices of lemon. Serve toasted brown bread with them. Time to roast about 10 or 12 minutes. STEWED CLAMS — Take 2 cups milk, add 1 teaspoon butter and a little white pepper and bring to a boil. Then add the clams, freshly opened, bring them to a boil, let simmer 4 or 5 minutes and serve. They will be tough and indigestible if boiled long. CLAMS ON TOAST — Take the clams out of the shell and cut their heads off; boil them in their own liquor; skim it well, and add as much water or milk as there is liquor; thicken with flour or pow- dered rice to the consistency of cream; add butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Have some thin slices of buttered toast prepared, pour on enough of the liquor to soften the toast and lay 3 or 4 clams on each slice. Serve at once, on hot plates. Garnish with parsley. A teacup of hot water will "start the steam" for ^ peck of clams; the amount of liquor which each shell contains will surprise the novice. As few like the liquor full strength, it is better to dilute it one= half as above directed. CRABS. A crab of the medium size is the best, and the crab, like the lobster, should be judged by its weight. It should be heavy for its size, for if light, it is watery. They are called "soft shell crabs" when the new shell is forming, as they shed their shell annually. They are a similar shelhfish to lobster, and are prepared in the same ways for the table. BOILED HARD SHELL CRABS — Put them into slightly salt- ed boiling water, and boil 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, season with pepper and salt, and with catsup or lemon juice. BROWNED CRABS.— Take the great shell, clean and butter it; mince all the fish, shred some parsley, mushrooms, truffles, and a 84 SHELL^FISH small onion. Brown these in a sauce=pan with a very little butter; put in the minced crab with the inside bruised, and some cayenne pepper and salt; stir this about, shake in some flour, and add a little coral. Let this simmer up, fill up the shell, strew over crumbs of bread with a small piece of butter; brown in a hot oven. DEVILED CRABS. — Boil the crabs, take out the meat and chop it fine ; then add ^ as much bread crumbs, cream or a cream sauce, salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard and lemon juice. Clean the shells, fill them with the mixture, dust them with cracker crumbs, and bake them brown in a quick oven. Deviled crabs should always be sea- soned highly. ESCALLOPED CRABS — Take the meat of boiled crabs, chop it fine; add cream or cream sauce, chopped hard==boiled egg, pepper and salt to season, and a little lemon juice. Clean the shells, put in the mixture, dust on bread crumbs, and bake brown in a quick oven. FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS — Remove the sand bags, etc., wash and dry them; sprinkle on pepper and salt, roll them in flour, then in egg, then in bread or cracker crumbs, and fry in hot fat. KROMESKIES OF CRABS — Boil for 40 minutes, 1 or more crabs; when cool, pick them out in as large pieces as possible. Mash fine the hard=boiled yolks of 4 eggs, add them to the crabs, with 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 whole egg well beaten, and a palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne. Mix carefully, and form into tiny rolls; wrap each in a very thin slice of bacon, dip it in fritter batter, and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve on a napkin; garnish with cress. The flesh belonging to the claws of the crab is far less likely to disagree with the stomach than the soft part con- tained within the shell. Crabs are diflScult of digestion, and so not suitable for invalids or dyspeptics. CEAY=FISH, PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS. These are much like lobsters, only smaller, and they are to be found in provision stores in hermetically sealed cans, already cooked, and, the meats picked from the shells. They are used whole and boiled for garnishing boiled fowls and all kinds of boiled fish. They are boiled in the same manner as lobsters, but for a much shorter time, from 5 to 15 minutes being the rule. After boiling, they may be broken in pieces, shells and all together, and form a foundation for a delicious soup, with any additions preferred. SHELLFISH 85 These shells fish make ornamental side dishes, served whole and garnished with parsley and nasturtiums. BUTTERED SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS.— Pick 1 pint of shrimps or prawns, and put them in a stew-pan with f pint of bouillon; add a thickening of butter and flour; season to taste with salt, cayenne amd nutmeg, and simmer gently for 8 minutes. Serve on a dish gar- nished with fried bread or toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy. CURRIED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS For a can of these shells fish, melt a small cup of butter in a pan; add a saltspoon of curry^powder, a sour apple chopped finely, the juice of a lemon, and ^ pint of hot water; a small onion may be added if liked. When all the ingredients are well scalded together, add a tablespoon of corn-starch wet with a little water, and stir until it thickens; add the can of shell^fish to the curry sauce. Let it get quite hot — do not boil — then serve. POTTED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS Pick the meat from 50 cray-fish and pound it to a paste in a mortar; season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. The butter must be slightly softened, but not melted, and the ingredients should be thoroughly mixed. Put it in small earthen pots, pack tightly, and cover with salad oil; then cover in such a way as to entirely ex- clude the air. The earthen pot can be had of apothecaries, with the covers, the potted cray* fish should be kept in a cool, dry, dark place. Prawns and shrimps may be potted in the same manner. SHBIMP. Shrimps and prawns, although not easy of digestion nor adapted to a weak stomach, are less likely to disagree than crabs or lobsters. LOBSTERS, The largest lobsters are not as good as those of a medium size, and those full of eggs are inferior. Lobsters should be put in cold water to boil, for they are dead as soon as the water becomes warm, and suffer less than when plunged into boiling water; they are done 86 SHELL^FISH when they have boiled about 20 minutes. Lobsters are not poison- ous if perfectly fresh; there is no poison "lady" in the lobster. The stomach near the head is, of course, taken out, and also the "string" or intestine which goes through the lobster; all the rest is edible. The green tomally or liver can be eaten, and do not waste the sweet meat between the bones of the body. Lobsters that were alive when put into the water to boil, will have the tail curled up, while one that was dead will have the tail extended. Long or slow cooking will toughen lobsters and make them indigestible. Brushing the large shells on the outside with olive oil, is thought to preserve the bright red color. Cayenne pepper, mustard, vinegar or lemon juice, should be eaten with lobsters; they are digested with difficulty. To kill a lobster quickly and easily, cut the spinal cord by pushing a long, narrow=bladed knife into the tail, slanting the blade downward, and inserting it at the third joint, counting from the end. Lobster Coral can be kept a long time if put in a jar or bottle and covered with vinegar. To use, soak about an hour in water, and then in milk for the same time; wipe dry, and use like fresh coral. During the season it is well to preserve surplus coral in this way, for coloring soups, etc. LOBSTERS AU QRATIN — Split the tail and body of the lob- ster, removing the fish and taking care not to break the shells; mince the fish, and put all into a stew-pan with a little good stock, and pep- per and salt; mix it well, fill the shells with the mixture, cover them well with bread crumbs, brush over with clarified butter, and brown it in a hot oven. BROILED LOBSTER.— After being boiled, a lobster may be broiled as follows: Take the claws off and crack them, split the body and tail in two, season well with pepper, salt, and cayenne, and broil. Serve with plain butter, or with a little heated catsup, dashed with Worcestershire sauce. BUTTERED LOBSTER— A buttered lobster should be first boiled and broken up. Take out all the meat, cut -it small and put it in a stew=pan with plenty of butter, a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, and stir till it is hot. If a handsome dish of 2 or 3 lobsters be de- sired, the tails should be halved and broiled, and put round the dish with the minced lobster in the middle. LOBSTER CANAPES— For this, there must be the meat of a medium sized lobster, cut in small pieces, and mingled with the green fat; pour over it a very little salad oil and vinegar, just enough SHELL^FISH 87 to moisten it well, and let it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Out thin slices of bread for the croutons, trim off the crust to make them square, or cut them with fancy^shaped cutters, and fry them a delicate brown, on a griddle well buttered; spread the croutons on a platter gar- nished with parsley; on the croutons spread the lobster, and on the lobster may be placed thin slices of lemon, or sprinkle them well with capers. LOBSTER CREAMEP. — Chop finely a medium=sized lobster and pour over it a pint of cream; put in a cup of bread crumbs, and 3 eggs well beaten, with a little salt and pepper; butter a mold, fill in the mixture, invert a plate over the top, and steam for an hour. Serve with any nice fish sauce. LOBSTER CURRY — Put | cup of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted, stir into it 2 tablespoons of flour and 1 heaping salt- spoon of curry powder; stir constantly until it is brown; then gradu- ally add ^ pint of hot water, stirring rapidly until it thickens; season with salt to taste. Chop coarsely the meat and fat of a medium^sized lobster, and add it to the curry sauce; simmer 5 or 6 minutes, or un- til it is quite hot; if onion is liked, rub the hot platter with a raw on- ion; place on the platter slices of nicely^ toasted bread, and pour the curried lobster over the toast. Serve hot. DEVILED LOBSTER — Cut lobster fine, and season it highly with salt, cayenne, mustard, chopped parsley, onion juice, if desired, and some pungent sauce, like Worcestershire; place the mixture in the lobster shell, sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, with bits of butter, and bake till brown on top. Eat hot or cold. LOBSTER PATTIES — Chop a medium^sized lobster very finely, and mix with it the juice of a lemon, a little salt, and white pepper, and salad oil enough to moisten it, if not moist enough; line patty= pans with puff paste and put into each a small piece of bread; put on a top crust of paste, brush over with beaten egg, and bake; when done, take off the top crust, remove the bread, fill the patties with minced lobster (after stirring it over the fire with the seasoning for 2 or 3 minutes) ; then replace the top crusts. STEWED LOBSTER — Cut the lobster small and put it in a stew=pan, and add just a little water, milk or cream, the latter being best, although the first will answer; let it boil up, add a teaspoon of butter, and pepper and salt to season, and serve hot, either on toast or plain. 88 SHELL^FISH The flesh found in the claws of the lobster is more delicate and digestible than that found in the tail, but all lobster, meat is difficult of digestion and not suited to invalids or dyspeptics. MUSSELS. These cheap and excellent shell* fish are sometimes called the poor man's oyster. They are sometimes eaten raw, but it is better to cook them. They can be fried, broiled, stewed, or pickled, being us- ually prepared for the market by pickling. The " moss," or byssus> which serves to attach them to rocks, etc., 'is usually removed, be- ing considered poisonous, although there is no proof of that. Still, it is better to remove it after being boiled and before serving them. BOILED MUSSELS — Clean the shells and put them in a kettle with water slightly salted and containing a little vinegar; heat until the shells open, and they will be done. Remove them from the shells, trim off the "moss," strain the liquor, add a little flour, the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, pour over the mussels and serve at once. Chop- ped parsley may be added if desired. The mussel more often exerts a deleterious effect than any other shell=fish. It often has a poisonous effect, the reason for which is not clearly understood. OYSTERS. Oysters are only good during the months containing an "r" (that is, from September to April) as their multiplying season is during the warm weather, and at that time they are soft and tasteless. They are not easily kept in warm weather, being a fish that quickly spoils. Canned oysters can be used in hot weather if liked, for they are only canned in their season. In cooking oysters, great care should be taken that they may not be cooked too long, as that pro- cess hardens them. They are easily digested and are commonly given to invalids, although cooking renders them a little less digesti- ble; if too much cooked, they are tough and leathery. Always buy the "solid" oysters, or those containing verj^ little juice, as they are sometimes watered and it is more economical to water them yourself The smallest oysters are used for stews and escallops, and are sold by measure, as are the " straits," that is, the large and small mixed. The largest oysters are usually sold by the dozen for broiling and frying; they are. called "counts," and "selects." Never salt oysters until just before serving, as cooking them with salt hardens them. They should be served at once after being cooked. Be sure that all bits of shell are removed before cooking. Do not open them until just before using if wanted raw; if to be cooked, do not keep them long after being opened. As the crabs are usually regarded as a delicacy, save any which are found among the SHELL^FISH 89 oysters. As oysters in cooking produce liquor enough of their own, there is less need of saving their liquor. BROILED OYSTERS. — Take as many large oysters as are needed, dry them in a towel, rub butter on the bars of a wire grid- iron, brush a little over the oysters, and broil over a clear fire. If the wires of the gridiron .are close together, smaller ones can be broiled. Arrange them on toast, season and serve. Or they can be dipped in melted butter, then rolled in crumbs which are seasoned with pepper and salt, and broiled until the juice flows; this saves the juice more and many people prefer it. CREAMED OYSTERS.— Cook 3 tablespoons of flour and 2 table- spoons of butter together until they bubble ; add 1 cup of milk and 1 cup of oyster liquor, and stir until you have a thick sauce; into this drop 1 quart of oysters freed from their liquor. Have ready an egg beaten light in a cup, mix some of the hot sauce with it, turn all back into the saucepan, stir 1 minute (not longer) and take from the fire. Season with salt, pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Serve on toast, or put the creamed oysters into buttered scallop-shells; sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in a quick oven. Eat hot. DEVILED OYSTERS. — Drain the oysters and dry in a clean towel; then put them in a dish, and cover with a mixture of melted butter and vinegar or lemon juice, adding a little pepper sauce or cayenne pepper if desired; let them soak 5 or 10 minutes and take them out; dip them in fine cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again in crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. ESCALLOPED OYSTERS.— Koll 1 quart of crackers fine with the rolling pin. Grease the baking dish as you would before baking a cake in it. Put a layer of cracker crumbs in the dish; drain the liq- uor froin the oysters and add twice the quantity of milk to it; mois- ten the crumbs with some of this, then put in a layer of oysters with a seasoning of salt, pepper and bits of butter. Put in the layers of crumbs alternately with the oysters in this way until all are in, with a layer of crumbs and bits of butter on top. Beat 1 egg and add to it the remainder of the milk and oyster liquor, or if none remains, add a little milk to the egg and pour it over all. Put a cover over it and bake ^ hour; then remove the cover and bake |- hour longer FRIED OYSTERS. — Take large sized oysters, parboil slightly, drain, sprinkle with pepper and salt and cool 20 minutes. Then roll each one separately in bread crumbs, then in beaten eggs and 90 SHELL-FISH milk mixed, then again season, and again roll in bread crumbs. Put into smoking hot fat and fry 1 minute; take out, lay on paper to ab- sorb surplus grease, garnish and serve. They can also be fried in the frying-pan. Prepare as above, roll in cracker crumbs only, and fry on each side until brown, using but- ter for the fat. FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS.— Put about 75 oysters on the fire in their liquor and an equal quantity of chicken broth; add the juice of 1 lemon, and when all comes to a boil, remove from the fire; in an- other steW'pan put a tablespoon of butter, 1^ tablespoons of flour; stir them together carefully so as not to color; add, slowly, the liquor and oysters from the other stew-pan, then the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, 1 saltspoon of white jDepper and salt mixed, 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley; let the mixture become thoroughly hot, but do not boil; serve as soon as possible. OYSTER FRITTERS. — Have ready a batter made as follows: Dissolve 1 heaping tablespoon of butter in 4 tablespoons of water or oyster liquor, and stir to this 1^ tablespoons of sifted flour; mix well over the fire. Take it off and mix in, one after the other, 3 eggs, and a little salt. Beard and scald the oysters, dip each into the batter, fry lightly in smoking hot fat, and serve. OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL — Do not open them until just before they are served, and then leave each one in half the shell. Allow about ^ doz. large oysters for each guest. Put them on a din- ner plate, and in the center of the dish put 1 or 2 slices of lemon cut thin. OYSTERS AND MACARONI — Take some macaroni, boil until soft, put a layer into a baking dish, then put in a layer of oysters; season with salt, pepper and butter, and so on with alternate layers of macaroni and oysters, until the dish is full. Then bake till brown, and serve. OYSTER OMELET. — Beat the yolks and whites of 6 eggs separ- ately; to the yolks add ^ cup of rich milk or thin cream, a little salt, and 12 oysters, chopped fine. Put butter in your frying-pan, as for an ordinary omelet, and allow it to heat while you are mixing the whites of the eggs with the rest of the ingredients. Mix the whole lightly and turn into the pan. Shake to prevent burning, and as soon as the omelet is set, or begins to be firm, turn one half over the other half quickly, slip on to a hot platter and serve at once. Good, but not as economical as many dishes. SHELL^FISH 91 PANNED OYSTERS — Eemove the crust from thin slices of stale bread, toast it, cut it in pieces, and fit them into muffin or patty-pans; moisten with oyster liquor; put oysters on the toast, sprinkle with pepper, and put a bit of butter on each one; cover with a dripping-pan, or any convenient cover to prevent the escape of steam, and cook in a quick oven; they will be done when the oysters curl (in 6 or 8 minutes). Then sprinkle with salt, and serve hot. OYSTER PATTIES.— Make a rich pufp paste and bake it in earthen sauce^dishes. Wash nice fresh oysters in warm, salted water; drain and put in a sauce^pan, with a piece of butter, a little ■salt, pepper, and nutmeg, if liked. Cook them only until they are plump, stirring with a silver fork while plumping; when cold, fill the crusts and send to the table. If liked hot, the crusts can be filled, before baking, with the plumped oysters, and sent from the oven to the table. OYSTER PIE. — Line a deep pie=dish with puff paste; dredge with flour; pour in 1 pint of oysters, season with butter, salt, pepper, and sprinkle a little flour over the oysters; pour on some oyster liquor and cover with a crust, with a hole in the top for steam to escape. Bake 30 minutes. PICKLED OYSTERS.— Put 100 oysters in a sauce-pan, and let them simmer gently in their own liquor for about 10 minutes; take them out one by one, put in jars, and when cold, cover with a pickle made as follows: Measure the oyster liquor and add to it the same amount of vinegar, and for each cup of vinegar, add 1 blade of pounded mace, 12 cloves, and a strip of lemon peel; boil 5 minutes, and when cold, pour it over the oysters and cover closely. PIGS IN BLANKETS — Choose large oysters, season with pep- per and salt; wrap each one in a slice of bacon cut very thin, and fasten with a wooden toothpick. Cook in a hot frying-pan just long enough to crisp the bacon. Have small pieces of toast ready, put each "pig" on one, without removing the skewer; serve at once. RAW OYSTERS — In cold weather these are much better to lie a short time in warm salted water; this takes the chill from the juice of the oyster, and they are more agreeable than when very cold, as they will be in winter. They may be eaten with just salt, pepper, and vinegar, but some persons like them served with one of the ap- petizing sauces. Nice bread and butter sandwiches are good with raw oysters. At large dinners where raw oysters are served, they are some- 92 SHELL=FISH times brought to each individual place before the company is seated. It is a pleasant and homelike way for the host to serve them from a platter before him, on small dessert=plates. Drain the oysters well, arrange them on a platter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and slice lemon over them. Thin slices of buttered brown bread may be served with the oysters. Let them stand in the ice chest ^ hour before serving. STEAMED OYSTERS — Drain them, lay on a plate and set in the steamer, and steam for about 10 minutes till they look white and plump. Use the liquid for a dressing; beat it, mix with an equal quantity of cream, and thicken it with a little corn^starch. OYSTER STEW — Put the liquor from 1 pint of oysters with 1 cup of sweet milk in a kettle; let it just boil, add the oysters and let it boil up once; then season with pepper, salt, and butter, with a few crackers toasted and broken in pieces. Never salt oysters until just before removing from the fire, or they will shrivel and harden. SMOTHERED OYSTERS.— Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce-pan, with a little salt, white pepper and cayenne. Have ready a pint of oysters, which have been washed in warm water slightly salted, and thoroughly drained and dried on a napkin; when the butter is hot, put in the oysters and cook them until they are plump (2 or 3 minutes); stir them carefully all the time with a silver fork to prevent them from sticking to the sauce-pan. Serve on toasted crackers. OYSTER TOAST. — Chop fine 1| dozen good large oysters, and season with pepper, salt, and a dash of nutmeg. Beat together ^ cup of cream and yolks of 2 eggs; heat the oysters till they simmer, stir in the egg and cream, and pour it on prepared slices of buttered toast. OYSTERS UNSHELLED.— Take oysters in the shell; wash and scrub the shell till perfectly clean; then, to keep in the juice, set them with the round shell down. Either steam them in the steamer 10 to 20 minutes, or roast them over hot coals on a gridiron, or put them in the dripping=pan on top of the stove, or in the hot oven. They will be done when the shells open. Then take off the flat top shell, and season each one with a little butter, salt, pepper, and lem- on juice. Serve hot. This method retains the natural flavor of the oyster better than any other. Oysters are wholesome and nutritious, but are more digestible when raw than when cooked, as cooking usually hardens and toughens them. SHELL^FISH 93 THE SCALLOP. SCALLOPS. This fish somewhat resembles the oyster in appearance and the crab in taste. It is com- paratively little known, although when fresh and well cooked it is very delicious. It is found in all parts of the world, and in ancient times the shells were used extensively in cookery, giv- ing us our prefix of " scalloped." They are in season in fall and winter. The muscle by which it opens and closes its shell is the only part eaten. They can be stewed like oysters, or fry them, which is a better way. FRIED SCALLOPS — Rinse them in cold water slightly salted, and dry in a napkin; dip them in cracker dust seasoned with pepper and salt, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. They are sometimes dredged with flour and fried in a frying-pan with pork fat, and some people prefer them that way. TERRAPIN OR TURTLE. To dress terrapin, cut ofP the head and bleed thoroughly, then soak in cold water for an hour. Next boil 10 or 15 minutes, take it out into cold water and with a coarse cloth rub off all the black skin. Have another water heating in the kettle, and when the turtle is cleaned, boil until the shell loosens; the time will vary from ^ hour to 2 hours, according to the age of the terrapin. When done, put in cold water again, take off the under shell and carefully take out the gall^sack and the liver and sand bag, and throw away the head. Be careful not to break the galhsack, or the gall will escape and spoil the whole dish. Save the juice that runs from the meat, open- ing it over a bowl for that purpose. The eggs and meat are served in various ways. If made into a soup or stew, the eggs are put in and served with it; if served in other ways, the eggs are used with other decorations, as a garnish. In whatever way served, the meat must be cut finely. ESCALLOPED TERRAPIN — Put a cup of butter in a sauce^pan, melt, and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour on a pint of hot water, stirring rapidly, to make a smooth gravy; pound the terrapin eggs to a paste and add with salt, pepper, and a trifle of nutmeg to taste; then strain. For a quart of finely cut terrapin, have a quart of bread crumbs made fine ; put a layer of terrapin on the bottom of a pudding dish, then a layer of crumbs, then of sauce, and so fill the dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top. Add sweet milk enough 94 SHELL^FISH to show through the top layer of crumbs if it is not sufficiently moist; put on a few bits of butter, and bake 20 minutes in a hot oven. Serve with slices of lemon. TERRAPIN STEW. — Make a sauce as for escalloped terrapin; put in the meat, cut finely, and let it get hot, but do not let it boil longer than a minute. Add lemon juice to the stew if liked. Serve with croutons or toasted crackers. SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS. X" T is of much importance that the cook should know how to make (Crj ^ good sauce for her meats, etc. A great deal of the elegance X of cooking depends upon having the accompaniments of each dish appropriate and well adapted to it. The most homely fare may be made relishing, and the most excellent improved, by a well made sauce. It may safely be asserted that a first rate sauce maker is also a good cook. Sauces are necessary in the most modest kitchen, and they are as easily made rightly as wrongly, if one only knows how, so that this branch of the art of cookery deserves very careful attention. A busy and economical house^wife will sometimes say she has no time or money for sauces, when as a matter of fact she cannot afford to do without them, for, by using flavorings is the best way to induce the system to take plain food with relish; and when we say this, we are not unmindful of the old saying that " hunger is the best sauce." Animals certainly would hardly be considered over particu- lar, and yet they have been known to starve in the experimenter's hand rather than eat a nutritious food from which the flavor had been extracted and of which they had become tired. We are con- vinced that poor people especially are too much inclined to neg- lect the very important matter of flavorings and relishes for their food. The Utensils. — To make sauces successfully, proper utensils should be provided. The most essential are wooden spoons and round bot- tomed sauce=pans. It is very, difficult to prevent lumps in a sauce if it has to be made with a pointed spoon and a flat bottomed pan. All utensils must, of course, be scrupulously clean. Sauces are best cooked in a double boiler to guard against scorching them in the least, which should be carefully avoided. Herbs, etc. — Do not be appalled at the number of ingredients, like thyme, mace, parsley, etc., called for in a recipe. A few cents will buy enough of all these things to last for a year, and the good cook aims to keep a small supply of all flavoring herbs on hand; but if you do not have them all, very good results may be produced with less. Thickening. — The most common thickening for sauce is flour. The quantity generally used is one ounce, or a heaping tablespoon, to 95 96 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS a pint of liquid; though 2 or 3 times that is needed to make a sauce thick enough to adhere to what it is poured over. Corn-starch or ar- roivroot is often used instead of flour, and makes a smooth and more delicate sauce. All sauces containing flour or any other form of starch for thickening, must hoU, and must be stirred until it boils, or the starch will settle to the l)ottom and make lumps, instead of thickening the whole. Although the starch swells, and thickens the liquid even before the boiling point is reached, even in this pulver- ized form the starch needs to cook ten minutes at least, to he made digestible; it should be remembered that all starch needs at least 10 to 20 minutes cooking. There is some difPerence in the quality of flour and it does not thicken the same at one time as another. Dry flour must never be mixed with hot liquid unless it is intended to form lumps; but it must first be stirred to a smooth paste with cold liquid, and then the hot poured over it, or it must be mixed with a little melted fat over the fire when hot, or cold liquid can be gradually added. As a gen- eral rule, the following is the best way to mix all flour sauces: Melt the fat, stir in the flour, and when they are well mixed, and there are no lumps, add liquid gradually, on or off the fire, stirring continu- ously till all boils. Sometimes the flour is cooked in the fat until it takes a brown color, more or less dark. Sauces thus made have a fine flavor, and are smooth and free from grease. All the different kinds of brown sauces are made by using brown stock, browning the butter, and using various seasoning materials. As flour, when cooked into brown roux does not thicken quite as much as when uncooked, rather more is needed. Eggs are also used to thicken sauces, sometimes the yolk only, sometimes both yolk and white, and both with and without the addi- tion of flour. They must be well stirred and never allowed to heat to boiling, as the yolk then hardens, and will not mix with the sauce; but they must be heated enough to slightly coagulate the albumen, or the sauce does not thicken. To pour boiling water very gradually over the eggs in a basin is often sufiicient. The safest way to cook an egg sauce is in a basin or pitcher standing in a pan of boiling water, or in a bain marie made on purpose; but an ordinary sauce- pan can be used if care is exercised. On the least appearance of " curdling," the sauce should be lifted from the fire, poured into a cold basin, and stirred. Coloring for Sauces. — It may be said that sauces should as a rule be of some decided color. In order to get these decided colors, ar- tificial coloring matter is often used. Brown is the most common SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELLFISH AND MEATS 97 and the most harmless, for it is produced by roasted flour, sugar or vegetables, which add to the flavor as well as appearance, if not carried to the point of burning. Onion skins contain much col- oring of a harmless kind. Home-made brown roux is to be preferred to that which is bought, and is much cheaper. Milk, cream, or white stock are used in white sauces. Lobster spawn gives a bril- liant scarlet. Spinach green is always harmless, and is the only green suitable for kitchen use, as many greens contain arsenic. Other harmless colors are given in our article on frosting for cakes. Good fresh butter only should be used for first rate sauces. In- ferior or rancid butter should never be used; it is not as good as fresh beef dripping or fat. Where economy is studied, it is. better to use less butter and have that good, than to buy a large quantity of cheap cooking butter. Meat should' always be sufiiciently fat to "cook itself," that is it should furnish enough oil for the gravy — if it does not, it is poor meat. Good salad oil is. much used in salads, and dishes made of dry cooked meats, as the gravy is mostly served with the hot meat at dinner. Serve hot. — Gravies and sauces should be sent to the table very hot. Being made in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly than if they were in a larger body. If made before the mo- ment of serving, they should be kept in a sauce^pan of boiling water; a fish kettle makes a good improvised hain marie. Roux (pronounced Roo). — Brown Roux, for thickening gravies and sauces, is made by melting butter in a stew-pan and adding an equal quantity of flour. Stir constantly while it is browning, so that it will not burn; when of a nice yellowish brown, put it in jars, cover tightly, and keep it in a dry dark place. It is then ready to use at any time by taking 1 or 2 heaping spoonfuls, according to the quan- tity of soup, and stirring it in while the soup is boiling, and it will instantly thicken. This is the Brown Roux used by foreign cooks. The White Roux is made in the same manner, but only cooked together for a few minutes without browning. Many prefer the bits of butter rolled in flour, and used as occasion requires; then there is no danger of rancidity or waste, as there might be if a quantity of roux was prepared and it was not needed for use, as expected. Condiments. — These are used to give a relish to food and gratify the taste. The principal condiments are salt, vinegar, oil, butter, herbs, spices, ginger, pep- per and mustard. Some of these, like mustard, are food and condiment combined. When taken in moderation they are conducive to health, but used to excess, they are highly injurious. It.is difficult to draw a very distinct line between spices and condiments, but 7 98 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS spices are generally added to articles of food containing sugar, while condiments are eaten with meat, and generally with any foods which contain common salt. Cloves and allspice are, however, eaten with meat, and cinnamon, nutmeg and mace with sweet foods. Spices can be used in moderation, but if used in excess, they irritate the mucous membrane and are harmful, often causing dyspepsia. SAUCES ASPIC JELLY. — Take a tablespoon of good extract of meat add 2 quarts of water, a small onion cut finely, or a bit of garlic, a pinch of celery=seed, a sprig of thyme, a carrot cut finely, with the rind of a lemon, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Let all boil slowly together until the vegetables are soft. Have 2 large table- spoons of gelatine soaking in cold water enough to cover, and add when the vegetables are done. Stir in the softened gelatine until it is dissolved, and add the juice of the lemon, with the whites of 2 eggs slightly beaten; now let come to a boil, then set back on the range for 15 minutes. Strain through a jelly=bag until clear, pour into a mould and place on ice. Aspic jelly is used as a garnish for various meat dishes. A plain lemon jelly made with gelatine, an- swers every purpose for decorations, instead of this elaborate jelly. BOEDEAUX SAUCE. 2 quarts of cider vinegar. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 2 quarts finely chopped green tomatoes. 2 quarts finely chopped cabbage 1 ounce of turmeric. 1 teaspoon celery seed. 1 teaspoon ground cloves. 1 heaping teaspoon of salt. 1 teaspoon of ground mustard, 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper. 1 heaping teaspoon of sugar. Mix all together and cook until soft, stirring often to prevent sticking to the sauce^pan. Cork tightly in wide mouthed bottles, and keep in a dry, cool place. A good meat sauce. Cloves are the dried flower buds of the clove tree, an evergreen tree belonging to the myrtle order. Our supplies come principally from Zanzibar and the West Indies. They contain a considerable quantity of a pungent oil which is aromatic and stimulant. BREAD SAUCE. — Dry white bread or rolls thoroughly in the oven, but do not brown them; then roll on the moulding board, put it in the fine colander, and sift through the finer crumbs. Put the fine crumbs in a sauce-pan, and for each cup, add 2 cups stock or water, a slice of onion, with pepper and salt; simmer 20 minutes. In the meantime put a piece of butter the size of an egg in the small THE CLOVE. SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 99 frying-pan, and when melted add the coarser crumbs of bread; stir continually until they are a nice golden brown. Take the onion from the sauce, add the browned bread crumbs, and serve in a sauce= boat. This sauce can be made with fresh sweet milk instead of stock, and is served with game. ANCHOVY SAUCE — Take 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, and add 1 tablespoon of anchovy paste or extract. BECHAMEL OR WHITE SAUCE.— Put | a cup of butter in a sauce-pan and let it soften; mix with it 2 tablespoons of flour, then add 1 pint of milk; set the sauce=pan in a larger one containing hot water, stir constantly until it thickens, and let it scald; rub out the lumps, and season with pepper and salt. This can be used as a foundation for many other sauces. A few bits of celery, sprigs of parsley and a little nutmeg can be added, with a sliced onion, if desired, for flavor; scald 15 minutes, strain through cloth to remove onion, etc., and send to the table. It is often made with ^ milk and ^ stock. BROWN SAUCE. — Fry 1 tablespoon of chopped onion in 1 tablespoon of butter; let this brown, but not burn, and then add 1 heaping tablespoon of flour; stir thoroughly and then add (a little at a time) 1 cup of hot stock, stirring rapidly until it is smooth and thick. Season to taste with pepper and salt, let it simmer 5 min- utes; remove the onion by straining the sauce. Leave out the onion if its flavor is not liked. Color with caramel. This will serve as the foundation for many sauces by using various flavoring materials. DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.— Put 2 tablespoons of butter into a sauce-pan and melt it, but do not let it turn brown; then add 1 tablespoon of flour and mix well; then add (a little at a time) 1 cu]j of hot water, or white stock if you have it, stirring it thoroughly. When smooth, add 1 large tablespoon of butter, cut in pieces, and stir it in thoroughly. Add pepper and salt to season, and strain it if not perfectly smooth. This can be used as the foundation for many other sauces. A few drops of lemon juice or vinegar can be added by those who want it acid, and a little finely cut parsley can be added also if desired. Maitre d' Hotel Butter. — Melt a teacup of butter in a sauce-pan; stir into it a tablespoon of corn^starch, then a pint of hot water; stir well so that it will be smooth. Add the strained juice of a lemon, a saltspoon of cayenne; salt to taste and add 2 large spoons of chopped parsley. It is served with meat or boiled fish. Butter, Montpelier. — Pick the leaves from water cress, which must be green and fresh, chop them finely, dry them in a cloth and 100 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS mince again; then thoroughly mix them with fresh butter until it is of a bright green, seasoning with the pepper, or cayenne and salt. This is used as an appetizer, for spreading croutons, or to make a garnish for savory dishes. Horseradish Butter. — Thoroughly mix equal parts of horseradish and butter, pass through a sieve and it is ready for use. Garlic or Tarragon Butter can be prepared the same way, regulat- ing the flavor by the proportion of butter used to the other ingredi- ents. Nut Butters. — Peanuts, hazel nuts, filberts or other nuts can be pounded, mixed with butter, and then passed through a sieve. The strength can be regulated by the proportions used. They are deli- cious and easily made Scented Butter. — Butter can be worked in a bowl with a few drops of the essence of any scent desired, then passed through a sieve, and it is ready for use. CAPER SAUCE. — Melt a cup of butter in a sauce=pan, stir in 2 tablespoons of flour, then add a pint of hot w^^^r, stirring rapidly while it boils and thickens; add a little salt if needed, a trifle of white pepper, and about a gill of pickled capers. Caper sauce is served with boiled fish, boiled mutton and lamb. Mock Capers. — Pick full grown seeds of nasturtiums, but which have not turned yellow, leaving 2 inches of the stem attached; wash them, put in a glass jar, add vinegar enough to cover, and in 7 or 8 days they can be used. Capers are the unopened buds of a low, trailing ^^ ^^ shrub growing in Asia and Africa, and they are now culti- X^SM^^^ff^ vated in Europe. They are pickled in vinegar and salt /^^^)/^^ before being imported, and are used to flavor sauces and ' 1 ImlmriT^^^^ vinegars. They have a pleasant pungent taste, and pos- /i9fn/^<^^i^ sess both stimulant and laxative properties. They are ^SS5??^3ySKi^T\>^^ sometimes colored green by the use oi copper vessels, m—'^// \^ producing a poisonous adulteration. This can be /^^%JiA-"^^l!^ detected by inserting a polished piece of steel or iron, mlllM0//u^^\ and if copper is present it will coat the metal in a j^Fj^ ^4^1 short time, the same as described for pickles. The hys- ^ """S-ki sop of Scripture is a variety of caper. THE OAPEB. CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.— Make a drawn butter sauce with part cream, and to it add boiled cauliflower, cut into small dice. Nice for fried or boiled fowls. CELERY SAUCE — Take 6 sticks of celery and cut the white part into pieces |- inch long; cook them in salted water for 20 min- utes, pour off the water and cover them with 1 pint of milk; boil until the celery is tender — about 15 minutes; add an even tablespoon of flour and a piece of butter the size of an egg; rub the flour SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 101 smootli with a little cold milk; season with salt and cayenne to taste. Boil 2 minutes to thicken. CHESTNUT SAUCE — Take 2 cups shelled chestnuts, and blanch them by putting them for 3 minutes into boiling water and then taking off the skin; Cook till soft in salted water, and then mash very fine. Put 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 tablespoon of flour into a saucepan, and cook till brown; add it to the chestnuts, stir it in well, cook 3 minutes, and season to taste with pepper and salt. Make a gravy of the drippings of the poultry, stir in the chest- nuts, and serve. Good for roast turkey. CHUTNEE SAUCE. 1 cup granulated sugar. 1 clove of garlic. 2 cups vinegar. ^ teaspoon mustard. .^ tablespoon ground ginger. 1 large onion. 15 sour apples. ^ teacup raisins, seeded and chopped. Peel, core and slice the apples, and stew soft in just enough vinegar to cover them ; then mash finely. Chop the onions and gar- lic finely and add, with the sugar, raisins, salt, ginger and mustard; scald all together and set away till next day; then add the vinegar, cold, and mix all together thoroughly. Bottle and cork tightly, and keep in a cool, dark place. Good for meat or fish. CUKRANT SAUCE. 1 cup of soup^stock. 1 mustard'spoon of cloves 1 teaspoon of salt. and black pepper. 1 tumbler of currant jelly. Juice and rind of 1 lemon. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a sauce^pan with the above ingredients, and let them come to the boiling point; then add 1 tablespoon of corn=starch wet with a little water: stir until it thickens, then send to the table. Good with game and poultry. CREAM SAUCE. — Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce=pan, and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour ; add a little salt and a little white pepper, then add gradually a pint of hot cream. Scald the cream by putting it in a pitcher; set the pitcher in a tin dish or kettle of hot water, and set on the hot stove. Cream sauce is good to serve with an omelet, or any kind of boiled fish. CUCUMBER SAUCE. — Peel and chop finely 2 or 3 cucumbers (they must be so young that the seeds are small); chop one small onion and add to the cucumbers. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and vinegar; this is better liked by some people than the navy sauce. 102 SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS CRANBERRY SAUCE. -To serve with roasted turkey: A pint of cranberries, ^ teacup of sugar, and ^ teacup of water is about the right proportion. Stew the cranberries in the water until they are tender; then add the sugar. CURRY SAUCE.— Slice thin 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of cel- ery and stew in 2 tablespoons of butter, until tender; put in a pinch of mace, a teaspoon of curry powder and 1 of thyme leaves; add 1 pint of-water and a baydeaf ; let it come to the boiling point; thicken with a tablespoon of flour, strain and serve. EGG SAUCE — Take three hard=boiled eggs, chop fine, and add to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce. Good for fish. FENNEL SAUCE.— Mix 1 tablespoon of flour and 1 cup water to a smooth batter; put into a sauce=pan, add 2 tablespoons of butter, season with salt, and keep stirring one way until all are melted; add 1 tablespoon of fen- nel, chopped fine and free from dirt; simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, and serve. Excellent for oily fish like salmon or mackerel. Fennel is generally grown in gardens, and its ele- gant leaves are used to ornament and garnish various dishes and they are sometimes used to flavor soups and sauces. THE FENNEL. FISH SAUCE. 1 saltspoon of cayenne. 2 tablespoons of walnut catsup. 1 qt. best cider vinegar. 1 teaspoon of salt. 1 bruised garlic. Mix all together. Put in large bottles, after standing a week, stirring every day; cork tightly. Use with any fish. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.— Rub | cup of butter to a cream, add the yolks of 2 eggs (one at a time) and beat well. Stir in the juice of half a lemon, 1 saltspoon of salt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. When ready to serve, add ^ cup of boiling water; place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, or on the top of the tea-kettle, and scald, until as thick as custard, stirring all the time. This sauce is served with fish or meat. HORSERADISH SAUCE.— Thoroughly mix 4 tablespoons of grated horseradish with 1 teaspoon of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt, ^ teaspoon of pepper and 2 teaspoons made mustard; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give it the consistency of cream; 3 or 4 HOBSEBADISB. SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 103 tablespoons of cream added will improve its appearance and flavor. To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put in a bain marie, or put it in a cup or jar and place it in a pan of boiling water; make it hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. This is a great improve- ment on the old= fashioned way of serving cold, scraped horse-radish with hot roast beef. Of course with cold meat the sauce should be served cold. Horseradish Sauce, No. 2. — Cook in a double boiler for 15 minutes, f cup cracker crumbs, ^ cup grated horseradish, and 2 cups milk; add 1 large tablespoon of butter,, and salt and pepper to taste. Use freshly grated horseradish and rolled cracker crumbs. This is very appetizing. No. 3. — Take 2 cups horseradish grated fine, 1 hard-boiled egg pulverized; add sweet cream, and a little butter; salt and vinegar to taste. Horseradish is a native of Europe and grows readily in damp ground. It should never be preserved by drying, because of the great volatility of its oil, but the root should be kept moist, by burying it in the sand. Its vola- tile oil evaporates so rapidly that even when scraped for the table it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the air. It stimulates the appetite and aids digestion, but is most unwholesome when taken on an empty stomach. LEMON SAUCE.— For a boiled fowl take the chicken liver boil- ed and mashed fine; add the juice and pulp of one lemon (without the seeds) and add it to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce. LOBSTER SAUCE. — Take the meat from the tail and claws of a boiled lobster, chop it into dice ^ inch in size. Add it to a drawn butter sauce, and season with cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice. Adding a teaspoon of lobster butter will make it a bright red. Good for any fish. MANDRAM SAUCE — Take cucumbers, pare them, and chop in small pieces; take half the quantity of young onions and cut them fine; add the juice of a lemon and a dessert=spoon of vinegar. This is very good with any roast meat. MATELOTE SAUCE — Peel and cut finely 2 large or 4 small onions, and fry them in a little butter until they are a rich brown, but do not burn them; then add about half a teacup of butter. When it is all melted, stir in a tablespoon of flour, and when it is well browned in the butter, add half a pint of cold water; stir well and let come to a boil. Season with ground white pepper, a little nutmeg, a saltspoon of sugar, and salt to taste; rub all through the fine colander and return to the sauce=pan to keep hot until wanted. Good with meats. 104 SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS MISS MAITLAND'S MAYONNAISE.— Take the raw yolks of 2 eggs, ^ teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of white pepper, a mustard^spoon of made mustard, ^ teaspoon of lemon juice, ^ pint of olive oil. After all is thoroughly blended, add 2 tablespoons of tarragon vinegar. Good with fish. MILK SAVCB (Plain). — Melt ^ cup of butter in a sauce-pan; stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour in and stir rapidly 1 pint of scalded milk; season with salt and white pepper. MINT SAUCE. — Take 2 tablespoons sugar, ^ cup of finely cut mint, ^ cup vinegar; mix and let stand 1 or 2 hours before serving, to well season the vinegar with the mint. . Use the leaves and tender tips only; wash them in slightly salt- ed water; then shake off the water, gather tightly in the hand, and cut finely with the scissors. Mint. — There are many varieties of/mint, and the species are distributed nearly all over the world. The green mint or spear- mint is the variety commonly used in cookery, the leaves being used in sauces and salads, and to counteract the flatulent proper- ties of some young vegetables. Spearmint is highly esteemed as an anti=spasmodic and stomachic. Peppermint is another variety, possessing the same properties, but is much stronger. The oil which is extracted from it is a carminative and stimulant, and is used for flavoring lozenges, etc. . mint. MUSHROOM SAUCE.— Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a sauce^panwith 1 heaping tablespoon of sifted flour. Soften the butter and mix thoroughly with the flour; then add 1 pint of hot stock, broth, or hot water; boil up, and add 4 teaspoons of mush- room catsup, and the juice of 1 lemon; beat an egg thoroughly and stir into the sauce; remove immediately from the fire to prevent curdling. This sauce is served with poultry and game. MUSTARD SAUCE.— To 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, add a little cayenne pepper and three teaspoons of prepared mustard. Prepared Mustard — Take 2 heaping tablespoons of ground mustard and add 1 teaspoon of sugar and | teaspoon of salt; wet it with good vinegar and stir it to a smooth paste; then add more vinegar and cook it until it thickens like paste, adding more vinegar until of the consistency required. No. 2 — Put 8 large tablespoons of ground mustard into a bowl, and pour on enough warm water to make a stiff paste; rub smooth, add I cup vinegar, a pinch of salt, and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; set the mixture in boiling water, and stir constantly until it thickens; then add butter the size of an egg, and continue the stirring until it is dissolved. Splendid. SxiUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 105 French Mustard — Use 4 tablespoons of the best English mustard, 2 teaspoons of salad oil, 2 teaspoons of white sugar, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of white pepper, 1 small garlic minced very fine, and tarragon vinegar to mix to a smooth paste. Put the mustard into a bowl and add the oil, rubbing it in with a wooden spoon until it is all absorbed. Wet with the vinegar until you have a stifP paste; add the salt, pepper, garlic and sugar, and work all together thoroughly, wetting little by little with the vinegar until you can beat it as you do cake batter. Beat 5 minutes very hard; put into wide mouthed bottles — empty French mustard bottles are the thing, if you happen to have them — pour a little oil on the top, cork tightly and set away in a cool place. It will be well mixed and ready for use in 2 days. French Mustard, No. 2. — Take 2 tablespoons mustard, pour on it just enough boiling hot water to make a paste; then add a teaspoon of salt, and 1 of sugar, and add a few drops of salad oil if you have it, a little butter, then a tablespoon of vinegar. German Mustard. — Take 8 tablespoons of mustard, 4 tablespoons white sugar, 4 tablespoons salt, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pepper, 4 ta- blespoons of butter, and juice of 1 large raw onion; mix all well together, and moisten with a little vinegar. The flour of mustard in common use is ground from the seed of black mustard [sinapis nigra). It possesses an agree- able pungency, and is the best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive organs. In its present form it has only been in use about 150 years, although it was used long be- fore in a coarsly powdered state. Mixed with hot water, it is a strong emetic. In moderate quantities, both mustard .and red pepper are useful with indigestible foods, Jike lobster, etc., as they are stimulant and aid in the digestion. Mustard is best mixed with cold water, as hot water impairs its essential prop- erties. It is well to prepare it in small quantities, as it is bet- ter when freshly made. NAVY SAUCE. — Chop finely 2 or 3 large onions, and season highly with salt, pepper and vinegar. This is fine for those who like raw onions, and is served with oysters raw or cooked. NUT SAUCE. — This is made by pounding to a paste, in a mor- tar, the meats of any kind of wild nuts (hazel nuts, hickory nuts, butter-nuts, etc.) and mixing the paste with an equal amount of nice buttter. It is served with game, or poultry. OLIVE SAUCE. — Extract the salt from 1 doz. olives by soaking them -I hour in warm water; then pare them close to the stone, round and round, as you would an apple, to remove the stone. Then put the olive into h, pint brown sauce, simmer 10 to 15 minutes and serve. Good with roast duck or other game. 106 SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS ONION SAUCE. — Take 3 good sized onions, boil them till soft, pulp through a sieve-, and mix it into 1 cup white sauce. Good with mutton or lamb chop. OYSTER SAUCE — Blanch small oysters, drain and dry in a towel, and add them to drawn butter sauce; put in a very little lemon juice or tarragon vinegar, let it come to the boiling point and serve. It goes with fish, boiled turkey or chicken, PARSLEY SAUCE — Take 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, and add it to 1 cup of hot drawn butter sauce. Color with spinach green if you have it, as that will improve the appearance. PICKLE SAUCE. — Take 2 or 3 tablespoons of finely chopped cucumber pickles, and add them to a drawn butter sauce. SAUCE PIQUANTE. — Add 1 tablespoon each of chopped cu- cumber pickles, capers and vinegar, to one cup of brown sauce. POTATO SAUCE. — Grate 3 or 4 large potatoes, wash out the starch, and dry a little in a napkin; chop a small onion and mix with the raw potato. Season highly with salt, cayenne and vinegar. Good with raw or cooked oysters. PEPPER SAUCE. — Break in pieces 6 pods of red pepper, 3 dozen black pepper= corns broken in a mortar, 2 tablespoons of white sugar, and 1 quart best vinegar. • Scald the vinegar in which the sugar has been dissolved, pour it over the peppers, put in a jar, and steep a fortnight; strain and bottle. This is served with raw oys- ters, or fish, and is a fine addition to various salads. RAISIN SAUCE. — Cut in two and remove the seeds from 1 lb. of large choice raisins; put over the fire in a pint of hot water and stew slowly until tender; then add 1 pint of granulated sugar, f pint of good vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of mixed ground cin- namon and cloves. Boil all together 10 minutes, and cork well in wide mouthed bottles. An excellent sauce for any cold meats. SAUCE ROBERT — Cut finely 3 large onions, and fry in a piece of butter as large as an egg; caramel a tablespoon of sugar and add it to ^ pint of water, and 2 tablespoons of good cider or wine vinegar; add salt, ground white pepper, a saltspoon of dry mustard, and a pinch of pulverized sage. Boil well together and add a tea- spoon of corn-starch dissolved in a little water. This is good with most kinds of meat, game, or fish. SHRIMP SAUCE.— Take -| of a cup of chopped, picked, boiled shrimps, and add it to 1 cup drawn butter sauce; let it merely sim- SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 107 mer, without boiling, and add a pinch of cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice the last thing. SAUCE SUPREME — Chop 3 mushrooms finely, add 1 table- spoon of butter and the juice of half a lemon; mix it into 2 cups be- chamel sauce, let all simmer 10 minutes, rub through a strainer, and it is ready for use. TARTAR SAUCE. — Take 2 tablespoons each of Worcestershire sauce and vinegar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 2 saltspoons of salt; put them into a bowl and set in a pan of hot water to heat. Put I cup of butter in a sauce=pan, brown it, strain, and add to the other ingredients. Serve it hot with boiled fish. SAUCE TARTARE — Put the yolks of 4 eggs into a sauce-pan, and add ^ teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon mustard; then add alternately 1 teaspoon each of olive oil and tarragon vinegar (adding them very gradually) until it is of the right consistency. Then add 2 chopped shallots, or instead 2 tablespoons chopped pickled onions and gher- kins. This sauce is often too acid. It goes well with fried oysters or fish, or with boiled tongue or codfish. TOMATO SAUCE. — To 6 tomatoes add 2 cloves, pepper, salt and a sprig of parsley; stew 30 minutes, and strain through a sieve into a saucepan put butter the size of an egg, set over the fire, and when it bubbles well, add 1 large tablespoon flour; when well cooked (keeping it stirred and mixed well) add the strained tomato; stir un= til smooth, and serve. This can also be made with canned toma- toes. SAUCE VELOUTE — Heat in melted butter, 1 pound of veal, cut finely, and any bits of fowl you may have, together with 12 good=siz- ed mushrooms; do not let them brown; then put them into a sauce- pan with two carrots and onions cut finely, a large tablespoon of flour, salt, pepper, a little mixed spice and as much veal gravy as will cover them. Let it boil up, skim off the fat, and let it simmer for an hour and a half; strain, and keep it covered for use. WOECESTEKSHIRE SAUCE. 1 oz. of cayenne. 1 grated nutmeg. 6 anchovies (mashed). 1 oz. of salt. 2 qts. vinegar. 6 cloves of garlic (minced). 1 oz. black pepper. 1 oz. cloves (pulverized). Mix all together and let it stand in a jug for 2 weeks; then strain and bottle for use. It must be tightly corked and kept in a dry, cool place. 108 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE, No. 2. 3 teaspoons cayenne. 1 miistard= spoon powdered cloves. 3 anchovies, chopped fine. 3 onions, chopped fine. 3 teaspoons walnut catsup. 1 qt. good cider or wine vinegar. Put all together in a stone jar and set in a kettle of water to become scalding hot; then let it stand in the jar, closely covered, 2 days; bottle after straining, and cork tightly. WALNUT SAUCE — A half peck of walnuts young enough to crush easily — they can be rolled on a board or crushed in a mortar. Add 2 quarts of vinegar and a gill of salt. Stir and mash together for a week; then boil in a porcelain kettle, adding a heaping tea- spoon of ground black pepper, the same of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoon of ground ginger. Boil all to a paste; if too thick to run from a bottle, add more vine- gar to thin it. Keep corked tightly in a dark closet. Some cooks do not mash while cooking, but strain off the juice to bottle. Good with meats. CURRY POWDER. {Kitchener's.) 3 oz, coriander seed. 1 oz. mustard, ground. 1 oz. cayenne, \ oz. fenugreek seed. 1 oz. allspice. 2 oz. cassia buds. 3 oz. turmeric. 1 oz. ground ginger. Pulverize all together; bottle tight, and keep in a dark closet. Good for meats. CURRY POWDER. {White's.) ^ lb. turmeric. 2 oz. ground ginger. 4 oz. black pepper. • ^ oz. cardamon seed. ^ oz. caraway seed. 8 oz. coriander seed. 4 oz. cumin seed. 2 oz. cayenne. Pulverize and bottle as above. HERB POWDER FOR FLAVORING.— Dry in a moderate oven very carefully 2 oz. each of thyme, winter savory, parsley, sweet marjoram and lemon peel; then pound the lemon peel in a mortar separately with ^ oz. celery seed; then pound the herbs, mix all, pass through a fine sieve, and ke^p closely corked in a bottle. To use, add to each 2 pints of soup 1 teaspoon of the powder. .The Makjokam is a plant of which there are several varieties. The sweet or knotted marjoram is the one usual- ly preferred in cookery. It is a native of Greece. It is rather tender, and requires a light, dry soil, but if taken in doors and kept in a warm, sheltered place, free from wet, it may be kept through the winter. The leaves have an agreeable aromatic flavor, and are used in soups, stuffings, etc. Medicinally it is a stimulant, tonic, and useful for mabjobam, nervousness. SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 109 RAGOUT POWDER.— Take 1 oz. of lemon peel, dried and grated, 1 oz. each of black pepper and mustard, ^ oz. each of nutmeg, ginger, mace and cloves, all ground fine; 1 saltspoon cayenne pepper, and 4 tablespoons of salt. Thoroughly mix the ingredients together, pass through a fine sieve, and keep in closely corked bottle. Ragout or sauce is much improved by adding a teaspoon of the powder. SASSAFRAS POWDER — Select sassafras leaves which are very young and tender, and dry them in a cool, airy place, spread out on white paper; then pound in a mortar till fine, pass through a hair sieve; bottle and cork tightly. They are used in gumbo and other soups, and in sauces. FLAVORED VINEGARS — These are a great addition to many dishes, like fish, sauces, salads, meats, etc. Keep them well corked, in a dry, cool place. Cayenne Vinegar. — Put into a glass bottle 2 cups vinegar and 1 tablespoon of cayenne pepper, let stand 4 weeks, strain and bottle for use. It is useful for gargling sore throats, as well as for seasoning soups and sauces; but very little is needed at a time. Celery Vinegar. — Put into a jar 2 pints celery, chopped fine; bring to a boil and pour on hot, 2 pints good cider vinegar, and 1 table- spoon each of sugar and salt; let it cool, cover, and let it stand a fort- night; strain and bottle. Chill Vinegar — Cut finely 1 quart of chili peppers, or any kind of ripe red peppers. Add a quart of vinegar and a tablespoon of salt; let it stand for a week, stirring daily; then strain and bottle for use. Cucumber Vinegar. — Pare, slice, and put into a stone jar, 10 large or 12 small cucumbers; add 2 onions sliced, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 ta- blespoons of pepper, | teaspoon cayenne and 1 quart vinegar; let it stand 1 week, boil it up once, and when cold, strain through muslin, bottle and seal. Excellent for gravies, hashes, salads and cold meats. EIder=flower Vinegar. — Into 1 quart of good strong vinegar put 1 pint elder flowers free from the stalks; let stand 2 weeks in the sun or in a warm place; strain through flannel, and put up in quite small bottles. It can also be made by infusing the leaves, either fresh or dried, in the same way, the fresh being the best. The vinegar is used both in cookery and in perfumery. Garlic Vinegar, — Into 1 quart of cold boiled vinegar put 2 oz. of finely chop^Ded garlic; let stand 2 weeks, strain, and bottle for use. Shallot vinegar can be made the same way. Cress vinegar can be made by bruising in a mortar | oz. cress seed, and letting it stand 2 weeks in 1 quart of cold, boiled vinegar. 110 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL-FISH AND MEATS Horseradish Vinegar. — Put into a bottle 1 quart vinegar, ^ lb. scraped horseradish, a pinch of cayenne and 1 teaspoon sugar; let stand two weeks, shaking daily; then strain and bottle. An excellent relish for cold beef, etc. . Lemon Vinegar. — Put the vinegar in a glass bottle and add lemon peel; the rind of 1 lemon will flavor a pint of vinegar; let it stand 2 weeks, then strain and bottle. Orange Vinegar can be made the same way. Mint Vinegar. — Pick nice fresh mint from the stalks, fill a bottle or jar loosely with them, and then fill it full with vinegar; cover closely to exclude the air, and let stand 3 weeks; then strain, put into small bottles, and cork tightly. Excellent for roast meats, cold meats, soups, etc. Parsley vinegar can be prepared the same way, the principle be- ing- merely to let the herb soak in the vinegar until its flavor is ex- tracted. Onion Vinegar. — Mince 6 large onions and add a tablespoon of salt, letting them stand for 5 or 6 hours. Take 1 quart of vinegar, and 1 tablespoon of sugar and pour over the onions; put in a jar, tie down the cover and let steep for a fortnight; then strain and bottle. This gives an onion flavor to meat sauces and gravies, when liked, without the trouble of cooking onions for each dinner. Tarragon Vinegar. — Take a hahdful of tarragon leaves just before the plant begins to bloom, and cover them with the best cider or wine vinegar (a quart is as much as would be needed for a year in a small family ) ; let the leaves steep in the vinegar for a week, turning them every day; then strain, and bottle tightly. This is good in sauces for boiled fish or poultry. The Tabeagon is a hardy plant which grows in light, dry- ish soil. It is a native of Siberia, and belongs to the order Cotnpositae. It has smooth leaves, of a bright green color, which are agreeable to the taste, and are used principally for making the tarragon vinegar. Other Flavored Vinegars — Black Pepj)er Vinegar, Caper Vinegar, Capsicum Vinegar, Ginger Vine- gar, Red Rose Vinegar, Curry Vinegar, Truffle Vinegar, White Pepper Vinegar, and several oth- ers can be made by steeping about 1 oz. of the arti- cle in 1 pint of good vinegar for 2 weeks, to ex- tract its flavor; then strain and bottle. Celei-y Seed vinegar is made the same way, but first crush the seeds. Using a little more of any article increases the strength. TAEKAGON. MEATS. THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING. "To be a good cook means the economy of our great'grandmothers, and the science of the modern chemist." — Ruskin. EFORE taking up the subject of cooking meats, etc., it may be of both interest and profit to our readers to explain some of the fundamental principles which underlie the processes of cookery. It is a lamentable fact that of the great multi- tude of people who daily prepare food for human consumption, very many have no idea of the principles involved. And yet these prin- ciples are quite simple, and can be easily comprehended, and if they were well understood, immense amounts of food might be saved which are now spoiled in the cooking and thus rendered both unpal- atable and indigestible. BROILING OR GRILLING.— To broil successfully put meat on a broiler or gridiron, put it over the fire, and heat it suddenly to crust the outside and keep in the juices. Fibres of meat are surrounded by water holding in solution albumen and certain soluble salts which are of the highest value as food. Albumen is soluble in cold water, it begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a jelly at 160° and becomes a tough opaque mass at 212°. When suddenly heated this albumen near the surface coagulates and forms a thin film or crust which will hold in the other nutritive juices. The crust should, if pos- sible, be formed all over the surface of the meat, and not on one side alone. Do not stick a fork or anything else into meat to see if it is done, as that will form holes and let out -the juice. If the article is dipped in melted fat before putting it on the gridiron, it will help set the surface albumen quickly. If it is very lean, or there is but little fat, it is well to draw it through a little melted butter or oil on a plate. For fish, it would be well to always do this, and the fish (not meat) may be sprinkled with salt and pep- per before being dipped in the oil. Fish is also floured to prevent its sticking to the gridiron. When the meat is browned all over, and ceases to feel spongy, it is done. A little experience will show just the right time to stop the broiling; then allow it to rest for 1 minute on a very hot plate, and serve. Do yiot put any salt on the meat while it is cooking; the 111 112 MEATS seasoning should be put on the meat after it is put on the hot plat- ter. Remember, therefore, that the rules for broiling are always the same, viz. : a hot fire at ^iJ'S^ with a hot gridiron well greased; fre- quent turning; no holes made to see if the meat is done and so let out the juices. Also remember, that the smaller the article, the hot- ter the fire necessary, and that for larger ones a more moderate fire is needed, or hold it further away from the fire. BAKING AND ROASTING — The first object is to harden the surface albumen, and so imprison the juices of the meat the same as in broiling. To do this, the fire and utensils must be very hot at first, and the heat can afterwards be lessened by cooling the oven. The smaller the joint, the higher the temperature to which it should be exposed, while the larger the joint, the smaller the fire, lest it should be burnt outside before it is cooked enough inside; but it should be hot at first and cooler afterwards. If the Oven is only wai'm at first, the surface albumen will not be coagulated, the juices will escape, and the damage cannot afterwards be repaired. In a perfectly roasted joint the outside albumen should be thoroughly hardened, but inside, the heat should only reach the stage which swells and softens the fibrin. If cooked more than this, the fibre becomes tough and separates into bundles which resist the teeth and digestive organs. Basting. — It is very important that the meat should be frequently basted — say every 10 to 20 minutes — and do it quickly, so as not to keep the oven door open longer than necessary. The drippings from the meat are the best thing with which to baste it; some cooks add some beef drippings. Owing to the heat of the oven, the outside surface soon becomes dry, and basting the meat covers it over with a thin film of fat which assists in imparting heat, while it checks the evaporation of the juices. Water is sometimes put in the drippings pan to baste with, but it should be remembered that the water can- not be heated above 212°, while 280° or more is needed for proper baking; so that water should not be put in the pan at first. Use beef drippings or fat from the meat itself at first, and add a little water later, if it is used. If a frothed surface is desired, flour may be dredged upon it every time it is basted. When you baste it, look at the joint and see if one side is more brown than the other; if so, turn it around; also, it is well very often to turn it over. All game and poultry requires a hot, clear fire, frequent basting, and should be sent to the table direct from roasting. It should not be finished long before it is wanted, and then " kept hot." A basin of water in the oven will produce steam which will THE PROCESSES AND PEINCIPLES OF COOKING 113 check the tendency to scorch and dry the meat. Hot, dry air is thirsty for water and will absorb it eagerly from any moist substance with which it comes in contact, but if the air is kept moist by keep- ing a pan of water in the oven, the tendency is overcome; water in the dripping pan does the same thing. This, however, should not be relied on as a substitute for having the oven hot at first and cooler afterwards. Do not put in the water until after the strong heat at first has set the surface albumen of the meat. It is better not to use water with meat which is desired rare, or with small cuts, but only for large roasts which require long, slow cooking. BOILING — To properly boil meat is quite an art, and the best method is as follows: Meat to be eaten should be plunged at once into boiling water, as that coagulates the albumen on or near the sur- face and forms a thin film (perhaps not thicker than cotton cloth), and this film holds the juices inside the meat. After this the water should merely simmer until the meat is heated through to the center sufficiently to cook it, but not enough to harden the albumen inside. About 160° to 180° is right for the simmering water. Cooked in this way the meat should cook longer, however, than by the old method of rapid boiling, but it will be much more digestible and better. If there are any exceptions to the above principles for boiling meat, they are in the case of sinewy and tendonous meat when gela- tine is abundant, for to make gelatine soft and eatable, long contin- ued boiling is necessary. Thus calf's head and feet, shins of beef, knuckles of veal, cow heel, tripe, etc., are usually best put into cold water first, and boiled longer than other meat. A good practical method for boiling meat is to put it first into boiling water, being sure to have enough water to cover the meat. Of course, putting a large piece of cold meat into the water will at first stop it from boiling, so keep it on the fire a short time (say 10 minutes) with the lid on; then take off the lid and skim it. As soon as the water begins to boil thoroughly again, the surface albumen will be coagulated; then lift the kettle off the fire on to the side of the range, so as to stop the boiling at once. Leave it there a short time — say 15 to 20 minutes — so that the meat may get hot clear through. This will prevent the meat at the finish from being over- cooked outside, and blue and uncooked in the middle. Then place it on the fire again and let it simmer. The time for simmering should be from 10 to 12 minutes for every pound of meat. All the best ex- perience, however, agrees in this, that a long, slow boiling produces 8 114 MEATS the best results, so that no exact rule can be given as to the time. An even teaspoon of salt can be put into the water in which the meat simmers; it is enough to season the meat on the outside, and more can be added when it is eaten, and, besides, most of the meat sauces contain a quantity of salt which serves as flavoring. After meat is put into boiling water, a scum will rise to the sur- face; this should be skimmed off and thrown away. It is one of the very few things in the processes of cooking which should be thrown away, as it is wasted food. The scum is the albumen which is drawn out of the meat, coagulated by the heat, and rises to the surface. Although the greater part will rise at first, do not fail to skim during the whole process; if any is left, it will attach itself to the meat, and spoil its appearance. Salt meat should be put in cold water after being washed thor- oughly in fresh water or milk; the water should then be slowly brought up to the simmering point. This will draw out the salt. Remember that all salted and dried meats should simmer slowly, as rapid boiling hardens them. All trimmings of meat should be used in the soup'kettle, or simmered in a little water and made into gravy. In boiling an egg, what we want is to set the white, without making the albumen tough and hard; the best way, therefore, is to always keep the water below the boiling point — nearer that of sim- mering water. Some people put the egg in cold water and take it off as soon as it boils. Others prefer to put it first into a sauce=pan of boiling water, and then take off the pan and let it cook as the water cools. It is a mistake to boil even a hard boiled egg an instant longer than is enough to set the albumen in the white and yolk. Recollect that vegetables require boiling, and meat only simmer- ing; therefore, you can not, as a rule, boil vegetables with meat with- out spoiling one of them. Vegetables should be put into boiling water at first, and /cej)/ there. Flour foods, such as macaroni, sago, rice, cornflour and flour puddings, should be kept all the time in boiling water, in order to burst the starch granules. The mechanical action of fast bubbling water is often useful here, partly in preventing the grains of rice, etc., from settling to the bottom of the pan. STEWING. — This is a process often confounded by ilhinformed people with boiling a long time, and even moderately good cooks often confound it with "simmering." A stew, properly so called, is when both meat and juice — that is, all the liquor — are eaten to- gether. Stewing invariably requires a heat much below that of THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 115 boiling water; 135° to 160° is about stewing point. Whatever is stewed, parts with much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, which should not, therefore, be wasted. And yet it is not desirable in stewing to extract all the juices from the meat, as is done in mak- ing soup or beef^ea; part should be barely coagulated, and thus re- tained in the meat in as tender a condition as possible. To accom- plish this, a hain'inarie or double boiler is an excellent thing to use. If you have not this, it will be a good idea to extemporize one, by setting one dish inside another, something like a carpenter's glue- pot. A pudding-basin, with a wide projecting rim, may be set into another pan just large enough for it to drop into and rest upon its rim. Put the meat into this basin, pour hot water over it, and pour hot water into the outer basin, forming a " water bath;" then let this outer water boil, but very gently, so as not to make the inside basin jump with its steam. Stew it thus for about double the time usually prescribed, and compare the result with similar materials stewed in the old way. The superiority will be evident. In any event, even if stewed on the old plan, the water should not hoil nor get near the boiling point: keep the water at 150° to 160° by setting the dish at the side of the stove and letting it quietly stew. Less water is used than in boiling. A common mistake is to put in too much water. The meat needs to be barely covered, and cooks forget that at the moderate heat of stewing there is very little loss by evaporation. It is the cheapest method of cooking that there is. Little heat is re- quired, and therefore little fuel used; nothing is wasted, and what- ever goes into the pot comes out. No attention is needed while cooking, and the cheapest and coarsest meat can be used. This method is peculiarly adapted for all gelatinous meat, such knuckles, heads and feet, and for all tough, fibrous meats, because long^continued, moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of bringing gelatine and tough fiber into an eatable condition, and it will not only make it eatable but palatable. A tough fowl can in this manner be made presentable, better than by any other. In order to prevent the extraction of all the juices from the meat in stewing, the best way is to fry it first; this gives it a good color and mode- rates the escape of the juices, which is often very desirable. The thoughtless method of putting it in an excess of water and then let- ting it boil away, produces miserable results. In stewing, meat and vegetables are often cooked together, but as the principles involved in cooking them are different, and they re- quire different treatment, the best plan is to boil the vegetables first. 116 MEATS and then use them and their liquor for the stew. Some people have a prejudice against a " stew." If so, you can dignify it by giving it a French name, and call it a ragout — but be sure you pronounce it ra=goo', not ra=gowt. FRICASSEEING.— This means, literally, " to fry." It is usually applied to a chicken, rabbit or any small animal which is cut up and fried, either before or after stewing, and served in a well flavored sauce. FRYING. — There are 2 ways of frying known to cooks as (1) wet frying, sometimes called French frying or frying in a kettle of hot fat; and (2) dry frying or cooking in a frying=pan. The best re- sults are undoubtedly obtained by the first method, although it is little used in this country. We will describe the 2 methods: To fry anything by the first, or French method, is to cook it by immersing it in very hot fat. In fact, just as in boiling we must let the water cover what is boiled, so in this method we must let the fat cover what is fried. The same fat will do over and over again, so that this method is not as expensive as many people imagine. Food fried in this way comes out quite dry, and without any of the greasy moisture of frying=pan cookery. An iron sauce=pan or small kettle must be used, as the heat of the fat melts the solder of a tin pan. The rules for good frying are: (1) The fat must be sufficiently deep to fully cover the article. (2) The fat must be sufficiently hot, in fact, it should smoke. (3) When anything is floured before it is fried, it must not be floured until the last moment before it is plunged into the fat. (4) When anything is fried that has been egged and bread^crumbed, it is best to egg and bread=crumb it some little time before it is fried. (5) Shut the kitchen door and open the window a little to avoid scenting up the house; this is a practical point which should be remeinbered. Now a few hints: The exterior of the substance to be fried should be as dry as possible; by this means we get a good color, and less bubbling is caused. Fish can be rubbed in flour; vegetables with a cloth; meat should not be washed. Before dropping anything that contains much water into hot fat, lift the kettle off of the stove, as the fat is liable to bubble over and catch fire. Most things that are fried are covered with egg and bread crumbs, flour and milk, or batter, in order that a crust may be formed round them to keep the juice in and the fat out; the essential thing is to cover them com- pletely and leave no crack. It is best to warm the articles a little before putting them in to fry, as, if they are to cold, or if too many are put in together, they will chill the fat, so that it will soak into THE PKOOESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 117 them. On taking any fried article out of the fat, lay it to drain on a sieve, bottom up, or on a very hot cloth, or best of all, on a sheet of blotting paper. The hot fat being extremely fluid, will drain off and leave the article free from grease. Never pile up on top of each oth- er articles which are fried. Bread crumbs should be very fine; if coarse, grease will adhere to or be absorbed by them. They should take a fine, yellow color, being slightly charred or toasted by the high temperature to which they are exposed. Things well fried are not greasy, but quite dry. Frying food thus is not adapted to materials which require slow cooking at a low temperature, because it heats the surface much be- yond the temperature of boiling, and, if prolonged, meat is heated clear through and toughened. Croquettes and similar preparations of cold meat are much nicer cooked in this way, and many kinds of fish are greatly improved by this process, while chops and cutlets which are first egged and bread-crumbed, are delicious thus cooked. If many articles are to be fried, reheat the fat occasionally to keep it hot enough. Using fat which is not hot enough is a com- mon mistake; keep the fat smoking hot. There is much more danger of not having it hot enough than too hot. It is advisable, when possible, to use a wire frying^basket. This does away with much handling, and lifts all the things out at the same time. A basket should not be used for fritters, which stick to the basket, and the articles in the bas- ket should not touch each other. As a basket expands with heat, it should not fit the pan very tightly; it should not touch the bottom of the pan. If you have no basket use an iron spoon, as tin or Brit- basket fob feying. annia metal will melt if the fat is very hot. Grease the basket by dipping it into the hot fat before putting the articles into it, and lay them in so as to keep them from touching each other. Fats and oils may be heated much hotter than water, but some burn much more easily than others. About 350° to 400° is a suit- able temperature for use; it can be higher; for some things which re- quire slow cooking, it should be lower. It is better to have the tem- perature high at first, lowering it afterwards. Remember that put- ting anything cold into fat to cook, lowers its temperature somewhat. The temperature of fat can be obtained with a thermometer, but without that, the following tests offer some guide: (1) Drop in a 118 MEATS few drops of water; if the fat bubbles thereupon, it is over 212°; if it bubbles very smartly, it is over 300°. (2) Drop in a piece of bread and take it out in ^ minute; if the bread is then crisp, the fat is about 350° or more. (3) The more violent the bubbling when any- thing is put in, the hotter the fat. (4) A thin, filmy, blue smoke arises when the fat is fit for frying; after that, if the fat is further heated, it becomes thicker, until the fat is burning, when there is a dense cloud. (5) Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite still, is never hot enough for frying. These rules are true of all fats, and more or less of all frying. The reason that fat crackles when it is first put on is, that there is generally water in it. This water, being heavier than fat, sinks to the bottom and is converted into steam, and these bubbles of steam escaping up through the fat makes the bubbling. If not moist with Water, it would not crackle. When the crackling ceases, it shows simply that the fat is hotter than boiling water, and that the water is evaporated. When you have finished using the fat, pour it into a basin con- taining some hot water. Have more water than fat, and pour the fat in gradually, if it is very hot, or else it will suddenly create a volume of steam; then agitate the fat a little, and let it stand until it is cold. When you next use the fat, take it out in one large cake, and scrape the part next to the water, which will contain impurities. The fat should also be occasionally strained while warm. With regard to the best fat to use, it may be said that, while olive oil is generally considered the best, it is too expensive for gen- eral use, and the taste is not liked by some people. Pure cotton seed oil answers well, and it has but little odor. Mutton fat or drippings is not suitable, as it is apt to leave a tallowy taste and smell, and it cools quickly. For every day use, lard is best, or, lard mixed with clarified beef suet, or the drippings from roast beef, pork or veal. We think, however, that some of the vegetable oils will soon largely supplant the animal fats for frying, and most other cooking pur- 13oses. There are many advantages and few objections to their use. The fat can be used over and over again. It is generally believed that for this method of frying, several different supplies of fat are needed, one for meat, one for fish, and so on, but if the fat is properly handled and clarified, it will be found that this idea is exaggerated. Fat for frying can be clarified by cutting it up into small piec- es, and putting it into the sauce-pan with just enough water to pre- vent its burning, and then heat it over a slow fire until the bottom THE PKOCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 119 can be seen, then it should be strained; or heat it in [a frying-pan to 285° to 300° F., and then very cautiously sprinkle upon it small quantities of water. The steam carries off the volatile fatty acids which produce the rancidity in such as fish oils, and also removes the neutral, offensive fatty matters that are decomposable by heat. CoxTOLENE. — This is a mixture of cottonseed oil and beef suet, and nothing Bise. It is an excellent substitute for butter or lard for shortening, or for other fats for frying. It can be used for shortening in any recipe calling for butter or lard, but use only about twosthirds as much of it. When used for frying it should be heated very hot before the articles to be fried are put into it, as we elsewhere explain about all fats used for frying (see "Frying"), but cottolene will not "smoke" as other fat does, so test it first by dropping in a piece of bread, and if that browns in }/£ minute, it is hot enough for use. No further general directions are necessary for using it. , We have elsewhere stated that we believe the day is near at hand when the vegetable oils will largely supplant the animal fats for all cooking purposes, and we believe the change to be desirable. This is a move in that direction. Cotton- seed oil is healthful, nutritious, and its use is unobjectionable. CoTOSUBT. — This is a preparation similar to cottolene, but made by another manufacturer. It is 80 per cent, cottonseed oil and 20 per cent, beef suet. All that we have said above about cottolene will apply to cotosuet, or, in fact, to any similar preparation of the same ingredients such as Vegetole. If an accident occurs when frying, do not throw water on the flames, as that turns to steam; smother them instead with a thick cloth or strip of carpet. The Philosophy of Frying. — This consists largely in the fact that different fluids will receive different amounts of heat — water boiling at 212°, beyond which it cannot be heated in an open kettle, while fat or oil will go to 560° to 600°. Water dissolves and extracts the juices of meats submitted to its action, but in fats the juices are pre- served, for they are insoluble in oil, and substances submitted to its action when it is very hot, harden, assume a more or less deep color, and. finally become carbonized. If the fat is at the right tempera- ture, it M'ill instantly harden the surface albumen, but if the tem- perature is too low, the fat will soak into the article, instead of draw- ing out the juices as water does. To Fry by the Second Plan we Mentioned above, or Dry Frying (the French call it Sauteing) the following directions may be given. To fry meat properly in this way, requires care and expedition, or the operation will be a failure, and, as in the case of broiling, it must be done the last thing while preparing the meal; everything should be in place on the table, excepting the vegetables in their hot dishes, and if mutton or lamb is to be fried, the plates, even in warm weath- er, must be hot, as the fat chills rapidly after being taken from the fire. Have the cutlets, steaks or chops all ready for the pan before- hand, so as to lose no time at the last; the slices should be of the right size to serve, If beef is to be fried, a little of its own fat, cut 120 MEATS in bits, should be melted and sizzling hot in the pan — on this, much depends. Put the pieces of meat in the hot fat, add no salt, as that draws the juices, and fry as fast as possible, turning and tossing the meat to keep it from burning; do not leave it a moment. Have a hot platter in readiness and take up the meat when well browned on both sides (which will be in less than 5 minutes) dust on it a little pepper, if liked, and spread it with butter, with a very little salt sprinkled over it very evenly, and send it to the table as hot as possi- ble. Meat done in this way will be tender and juicy, like well broiled steak. A long, slow simmering of fresh meat, salted in the pan, will make it hard and indigestible. Fresh pork, beef, mutton and lamb should each be cooked in its own fresh fat; veal is so dry and lean that it is usually fried in the fat from salt pork, and afterwards seasoned as above. Other meats, if they are lean, can be fried in the fat of a single slice of salt pork, rather than in butter, which burns if brought to the right heat to cook meat without losing the juices. Only enough fat is required to keep the meat from sticking to the pan; if there is more, it can be poured over the meat, or thickened, and with a little water added, used for gravy. BRAISING. —This is a way of cooking by the action of heat above as well as below the article cooked — the effect is somewhat similar to stewing. A braising^pan has a deep cover, on which live coals are placed. The pan is air-tight, and as all evaporation is thus precluded, the food imbibes whatever flavor the cook may wish to give it, in order to effect which, she must place in the pan with the meat, whatever vegetables, etc., her recipe may direct. The ingredi- ents should be very well proportioned, and the stewing should go on very slowly. It is not a common method of cooking in America, although more practiced in Europe. TO STEAM.^ — Cooking by steam in private families is not as generally practiced as it might be. The steamer fits tightly on a pan or kettle, and as the water boils, the steam fills the steamer and cooks the articles in it. A tough fowl, filled with a stuffing of bread crumbs, etc., and steamed for 2 hours or so, will be made quite ten- der. Fish and oysters cooked in this way are delicious. Stale bread and biscuit steamed 5 or 6 minutes, is made fresh and good. Plum cake steamed 8 hours and then baked 1 hour, is better than when baked in the ordinary way. Potatoes are often steamed. In steam- ing puddings, etc., do not use water in which anything else has been cooked, as it will give them an unpleasant flavor. Articles being THE PKOCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 121 steamed cannot burn, but do not let the fire get so low that the water stops boiling for an instant, or the supply of steam will be lessened, to the detriment of the article being cooked. r SAUTEINQ. — This is the French name for frying anything quickly in a small pan, with a very little dripping, oil or fat, doing one side at a time. It is the same as the dry frying which we have previously described. The art consists in having the pan and fat very hot at the start, and in doing it very quickly, to save the juices and succulence in the meat. TO LARD. — This consists in sticking bacon or other specified articles into poultry, meat, etc. it is done with a larding needle. It is sometimes thought a difficult operation, but is really exceeding- ly easy. It improves dry, lean meats, and though it needs to be done neatly, to look well, a little pS^P^^^^^^^5S»SJsai^ iWS^^Ilii Fig. 1. LAEDOONS. Fig. 2. METHOD OF LABDING MEAT. practice teaches this readily. The method is to cut fat bacon into narrow strips of equal length and thickness; for poultry and game, these should be about 2 inches long, \ inch thick, \ inch wide; for fillets of beef, loins of veal, or other solid joints, the same length, and \ inch thick and Fig. 3. LABDED NECK OF MUTTON. Fig. 4. LAEDED TUEKEY. wide. Notice that for all white meats, the bacon used must be cured without saltpetre, as that tinges meats red in cooking. Put each of these strips of bacon (which is called a "lardoon") into a "larding needle," and pass the point of this through enough of the fowl or joint to hold the lardoon safely; then draw the needle through, leav- ing the bacon in the meat, with both ends projecting equally. Do this in regular rows, and at equal distances, until the meat is covered 122 MEATS with a regular pattern. Generally the breasts only of poultry and feathered game are larded, and the backs, or backs and thighs of rab- bits and hares. With soft meat, like poultry it is well to first dip the part to be larded in boiling water for a nioment, as that im- parts greater firmness to it, and makes it hold the lardoons better. DAUBING. — This is somewhat like larding, but the strips of pork are pushed entirely through the meat from side to side, instead of being merely inserted near the surface. By this means the fat and flavor of the pork penetrates the inside of the meat, giving it a flavor which some people relish. Cut the fat pork into strips as for larding, but a little thicker, and long enough to a little more than go through the meat, projecting a little to each side. A hole is first punched clear through the meat with a steel instrument, and then the strip of fat pork is thrust through with the larding needle or fin- gers. Daubing is usually applied to a thick piece of beef or veal. The flavor of the pork may also be obtained, however, by laying it on the top of the meat, leaving it on while cooking, and removing it when done. BONINQ — This is usually done by the butcher, and means liter- ally making the joint or fowl, or whatever it is, boneless. BARDINQ. — This is practiced on poultry and game and consists in fastening a thin, large slice of fat salt pork on the breast; it an- swers the purpose of basting. GLAZING. — This consists in covering certain meats with a thin, golden-brown paste (a glaze) made by boiling down rich soup stock. It is used to give meats which have not been colored by cooking, a glossy surface, and a brown, roasted appearance. TO EGG AND BREAD=CRUMB.— The best way to make bread= crumbs is to rub stale bread through a wire sieve, because the bread= crumbs should be very fine. A wire sieve is a necessity in every home where economy is considered or good cooking desired. If the bread=crumbs are to be used for meat or fish, a little pepper and salt can be added; if for sweet dishes, add a little sugar. The eggs should be beaten up lightly; a teasijoon of water to each egg helps in beating it thin. The rule is, to dip the article that is to be egged and bread-crumbed first in the crumbs to dry it; now let it dry a little, then dip it in the beaten up egg, drain it, and then roll it again in the bread crumbs and leave it in the crumbs until it is put in the smoking hot fat. It is best to egg and bread-crumb anything some time before it is fried. The dryer the crumbs the better if a ffood color is desired. THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 123 The philosophy of this process is that the egg, ' being albumen, when put into the hot fat, hardens into a thin, tough film, which keeps the fat from penetrating, and with meat and fish holds the juices within them. It is evident that for this purpose every part of the surface should be perfectly covered with the egg, and that there should be no cracks for the juice to escape through. If the egg and bread crumbs fall ofp, it is because the crumbs are too coarse; or there is not enough fat in the kettle; or it is not hot enough, the latter being often the cause. DRIPPING — Excepting the fat from mutton, lamb, and that from boiled ham that has been smoked, " dripping " is any fat tried from cooked meat. The fat of salted pork is ready for use as soon as tried, and may be poured from the frying=pan into the bowl kept for that purpose, but the fat from roasted or boiled meat contains more or less water and must be heated in the fryingspan until all the water has evaporated, and then strained into an earthen vessel. If more dripping is saved in this way than is needed for shortening or for re=cooking potatoes, it can be strained into the kettle for frying doughnuts. An econ- omical cook never allows good fat to spoil. The fat from baked sausages is excellent for re= warming potatoes, but will not do for the doughnut kettle. The fat from poultry may be used very soon after trying out, but it becomes rancid much sooner than the fat of beef and pork. The fat of mutton and lamb, with that from the boiled smoked ham, is only fit for the soap^man. When the drippings to be clarified for use are smoking hot in the frying-pan, all unpleasant odors (like that of fat from corned beef) can be removed by slicing 1 or 2 raw potatoes into the pan and leaving them until fried crisp; the potatoes absorb all unpleas- ant flavors. Thermometers. — We wonder that no one has ever invented a good thermometer to be used when cooking, and in the kitchen. We know of none now. Mrs. M. H. Abel says she fastened a thermo- meter to a cork, having the bulb project below, and protecting it with a piece of wood; thus arranged, the cork would float on the water, and the temperature of any article boiling or stewing, could be determined. She also used it to test the oven by hanging it on a wire frame. The present method of guessing at the temperature when cooking is very unsatisfactory, and must give way before long to a more exact and scientific plan. HINTS — In cooking meat, it will be an assistance to remem- ber that freshly killed meat requires more time to cook than that 124 MEATS which has been kept; also that meat needs cooking rather longer in cold weather than in hot. To Make Tough Meat Tender. — Soak it in vinegar and water; if the piece is very large, soak it about 12 hours; for 10 lbs. of beef, use about 3 quarts of water and | pint of vinegar, and soak it for 6 or 7 hours. If the vinegar is not very strong, a very tough piece can be soaked 3 or 4 days in summer, and twice as long in winter to advan- tage, and spices may be added if liked. Or the meat can be brushed over with vinegar and let stand with that on ^' to one day. The tough fibre is cut and. softened by the acid. Sour milk is used for the same purpose, by foreign cooks, the lactic acid of the milk acting the same as the acetic acid of the vinegar. The mieat should be im- mersed in the sour milk, which should be changed every day, and thoroughly washed off before cooking the meat. Meat is also "hung" to make it tender. Stewing also makes many tough meats' tender; see the preceeding article on " Stewing." Washing Meat. — Meat purchased from a good butcher should not need washing before being cooked; all that will be necessary will be to dampen a cloth with cold water and wipe it ofp; or scrape it with a dull knife to remove splinters of bone, sand, etc. Washing meat will dissolve out the surface albumen and juices, and detract just that much from its value. If necessary to wash it, do not let it stay in water, but use cold water, throw it on quickly, and then wipe the meat dry. The Action of Salt on Meat — This. should be understood. Salt causes the fibers of meat to contract, and the juice to flow out of its pores, often forcing out in this way as much as ^ of the juice of the meat, which is the reason of the fact, familiar to every house- wife, that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. Now as the juice thus extracted contains albumen, and other valuable principles, it will be seen that meat which has been preserved with salt can never have the nutritive value of fresh meat, because the juices when once drawn out can never be restored. Do not put salt on meat that is being cooked until it is nearly done; if added earlier it toughens the fibre. Hard and Soft Water. — Many cooks also do not understand the action of different waters on meat. For making soup, or broth, soft water, unsalted, is best to use, because that more readily penetrates the tissues and extracts the juices; but for cooking meat to be eaten, where it is desired to retain the juices in the meat, hard water is best, or if soft water is used, put a little salt in it. Salt added to the water in which meat or fish is cooked acts in 3 ways: (1) It helps MEATS 125 to coagulate the surface albumen. (2) Water containing salt boils at a little higher temperature than pure water. (3) It increases the density of the water, and the juices flow out less readily. Although each action is rather small, they all combine to keep in the juices. The Disagreeable Odor of Boiling. — This may be kept from filling the house by putting into the water a pod of red pepper. A lump of charcoal wrapped in muslin and dropped in the kettle will also absorb the odor and prevent its permeating the house. Burning Fat. — When, in broiling meat, fat drops down on the coals, and you fear it may give the meat a smoky taste, take off the gridiron for a minute or two, and put a little salt on the coals. To Tliaw Frozen Meat — Put it in cold water, and do not try to cook it until it is fully thawed. Do not thaw it until just before it is to be cooked. To ascertain whether the thawing is complete, drive an iron skewer through the thickest part of the joint; if there is a core of ice within, it will be distinctly felt by the resistance it offers. If the meat is cooked before it is perfectly thawed, it will often dis- play a raw center when done. Meat that has been frozen decom- poses easily when thawed, and it is apt to be insipid and dry when cooked. Cold Meat. — Cold, sliced meats are much relished by many, but need not, necessarily, be entirely cold when served, especially in cold weather. Arrange the slices neatly on a platter, then set the platter in the oven with the door open, and warm just enough to take off the chill, but not to start the fat from the meat. Serve it with tomato or chili sauce. Cold meat cuts better after it is entirely cold. Remember that in re=warming all kinds of meat, it must not be re-cooked, as that has a tendency to harden it. By placing thinly cut bits of cold meat in a hot dish, or platter, and pouring over it the hot sauce or gravy, and then serving in hot plates in cold weather, the meat will be sufficiently heated. Cold butcher's meat of all kinds can be treated in this way; also fish, shelhfish, poultry and game, each covered with its appropriate hot sauce or gravy. Mutton particularly calls for hot plates nearly all the year round, as th:^ fat hardens immediately on a cold plate. GRAVY. — Gravy differs from a meat sauce in that it is made of the juices which drip from roasted or baked meats; or from those extracted in the process of frying or sauteing; or from the broth from boiled meats, in contradistinction from a sauce made from something foreign to the meat. Gravy for roasted meat is made by adding water to the drippings pan in which the meat is roasted; the juices of the meat which have 126 MEATS dried and browned on the sides of the dripping-pan, should be thor- oughly stirred down into the pan with a spoon, as this gives color and flavor to the gravy; the surplus fat must be dipped off, but a small portion left in gives the needed fat and richness to the gravy without the addition of butter, and will be thoroughly blended through it by the addition of the thickening. The thickening is made by mixing flour or corn^starch with a little cold water, and stirring it into the boiling contents of the dripping=pan, which is placed on the top of the stove or range, immediately upon taking up the roast. Most cooks of the present day use corn*starch, which cooks free from lumps; others prefer the flavor of flour thickening, even if it necessitates the straining of the gravy; browned flour, or browned flour and butter, called brown roux, or white roux, which is raw flour and butter already mixed, is used by professional cooks. Gravies should be kept hot in a sauce=pan, after straining, until sent to the table for a cold gravy is an abomination. Gravy for meat fried in a frying=pan is made in the same way, by adding a little hot water to the pan after the meat is taken up, then thickening it as above ; there is usually no surplus fat when meat is cooked in a frying-pan, as only enough fat is used to keep the meat from sticking to the pan. Gravy for boiled meat is made by dipping the required quantity of broth from the top of the pot, together with a portion of the fat, then thicken and season as for other gravies. A spoonful of any one of the various meat sauces may be added to gravies for seasoning if preferred. Do not spoil gravies with high seasoning of any kind, for the best gravy is that in which the flavor of the meat is best retained. The English method of making gravy with meat=liquor or soup=stock is as follows: When roasting beef, mutton, lamb or pork, pour ofP into a dish, ^ hour before dinner time, all the contents of the drip- ping-pan, and set them away in a cool place; then put into the pan 1 or 2 cups of the meat liquor or stock; if you have cold gravy or drippings of a previous day, take off all the fat from the top, and put the liquid which is left, into the pan. Wet some browned flour smooth, and when you take up the meat, set the dripping=pan on top of the stove; the gravy will at once boil up, and the wet flour must then be stirred in. Do not let it stand too long, as it will boil away fast. With veal and venison, there is but little fat, and that is not gross, and so the gravy is made differently. When the meat is first BEEF 127 put to roast, put some meat-liquor or stock in the dripping=pan, and add a little more as it boils away. When the meat is done, set the dripping=pan on the stove, and, having stirred in the wet flour as before, add a piece of butter ^ the size of an egg, and stir until it is all melted or it will make the gravy oily. For poultry, the gravy is made by boiling the giblets by them- selves in a little water; skim it carefully, as a good deal of scum will rise. After 1 or 1| hours, take them out and pour the water into the dripping=pan ; mash or chop the liver fine, and when you make the gravy, add this and a bit of butter, some pepper, the wet flour, and, if yo,u choose, a little sweet marjoram. The fat that roasts out of a turkey should be dipped off with a spoon before these ingredients are added; it is too gross to be palat- able. For goose gravy, pour off all the drippings as directed for beef or pork, and put in some of the meat-liquor or stock. To Brown Flour. — Some cooks keep browned flour on hand for gravies and soups, and think it gives a better flavor and color than white flour. Prepare it as follows: Put about a quart of flour into a spider and set it into the oven or on top of the stove; stir it often lest it should burn. When it is a light brown color, set it away for use, in a jar or wide mouthed bottle, keeping it corked. Garnishing meat adds much to its appearance. Slices of carrots are suitable for hot or cold boiled beef. Mint is used for hot or cold roast lamb, either with or without parsley. For roast veal and calf's head, slices of lemon are used. For boiled meats or stews, use capers, boiled onions or pickled gherkins. For roast beef, horse- radish is often used. Slices of red beet-root go well on boiled beef or cold meat, and for poultry, fish, cold meats, etc., parsley is very generally used. Slices of lemon served with a plate of beefsteak will impart a pleasant flavor to it, and those who like onions will relish beefsteak served on a platter that has been well rubbed with raw onion. BEEF. Beef is probably the best and the most wholesome, as it is cer- tainly the most economical meat that can be purchased for family use. Very lean beef is of inferior quality, while that which is very fat is objectionable because it is so wasteful. Before boiling salted beef, it should be soaked in a quantity of 128 BEEF water over night; then put it on in cold water and it is much better for a long, sloiv boiling. BEEF BALLS. — Chop fine some cold beef, mix with the meat 1 or 2 well=beaten eggs, according to quantity of meat; a bit of chopped onion, a little melted butter, salt and pepper; flour your .hands, roll the prepared meat into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. CHIPPED BEEF. — Heat together 1 cup each of milk and water, and thicken with a beaten egg and a little flour; when it has boiled 5 minutes, add a quantity of chipped beef; stir in well and remove at once from the fire. BEEF OR VEAL CHEESE — Boil and skim beef until the meat and gristle drop from the bone; chop the meat fine, season with pep- per, salt and sage, and put in a deep dish; take all the fat from the soup and boil it away some, then pour it over the meat, stir well, and set away to cool and harden. Cut in slices and eat cold. CORNED BEEF. — Put it into cold water and boil slowly until tender. If there are any bones take them out, fold the meat together and press it under a heavy weight. It can then be sliced in nice shape. Time to boil f hour for each pound of beef. Beef DAUBE (doe-b). — Have a slice cut from the top of the round of beef, 3 or 4 inches thick; take out the bone, cut places all over it an inch or two apart (doing it as evenly as possible) and place little squares of salt pork in each cut; put it in a deep frying- pan or bakingstin with a little water, cover tightly, and bake, or sim- mer on the stove for an hour; then turn it in the pan, season with a little salt, pepper, and herbs if liked, slice on an onion, 2 or 3 pota- toes, a small turnip, and a carrot, cover again, and bake or simmer until the vegetables are done. Serve with sour apples, baked or fried. Time, If hours. DEVILED BEEF — ^Take 2 lbs. round steak, chopped fine, add a cup of bread crumbs, ^ cup of sweet milk, a good table spoon of but- ter, a good teaspoon of salt, a little pepper. Mix and put into square deep tins, and bake about | hour. It slices nicely when cold. DRIED BEEF. — This is commonly served as an appetizer, sliced very thinly, and eaten raw. It is cooked by slicing thinly, or rather, shaving it as for a relish, then put it in a sauce-pan and scald with just boiling water enough to cover it; let it scald 4 or 5 minutes, then drain off the water, and add ^ jpint of cream; when this gets hot thicken it with a little corn^starch in cold milk; when thoroughly BEEF 129 hot, serve in a hot dish. Milk may be substituted for cream, and a little butter added to season it, or the yolk of an egg. This is a con- venient and economical dish for a small family living at a distance -from a market. Serve with either boiled or baked potatoes. DRIED BEEF RELISH— Cut dried beef very fine, put it in a sauce=pan with a little hot water and let it simmer on the stove a few minutes; add a little butter, toast slices of bread a nice, delicate brown, and spread the beef over the slices of toast. If the dried beef is veny salt, turn off the hot water after standing a few minutes; then add a little more to prepare it. FILLET OF BEEF. — This is the underside of the loin; take out the bones. After trimming and larding, put into a pan, in the bottom of which are some small pieces of beef suet; sprinkle with salt and pepper; add 1 cup of water. Bake in hot oven 30 minutes; baste often with hot water. FRIZZLED BEEF— Take 2 cups of sliced dried beef, ^ cup of butter, 6 cups of sweet milk, 6 even teaspoons of flour, ^ teaspoon of pepper, and 12 small slices of bread. Brown the butter slightly, add the dried beef and let it cook until it curls at the edges; stir in the flour dry, add the milk and pepper, stirring constantly until it boils; turn it over the bread and serve. BEEF HEART — Cut open the heart, rub well outside and in with salt; make a nice dressing the same as for chicken, stuff the • heart and sew it together. Roll a nice round steak around it and tie; " season well with pepper and salt. Then put a plate in the bottom of a kettle, put in the heart, cover with water, and cook until tender. When about done, take it out and put into a dripping=pan, pour over the juice in which it was cooked, and place it in the oven to brown. Make a nice gravy to go with it. Excellent. HUNTERS' BEEF.— Take 25 lbs. of round of beef, 3 oz. of salt- petre, 3 oz. of the coarsest brown sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 nutmeg, ^ oz. of allspice, 8 handfuls of common salt — all in the finest powder. Take the bones from about 25 lbs. of a round of beef, and let it hang for 2 or 3 days. Then rub the above ingredients well into it every day for 2 or 3 weeks, turning it every morning. When ready to be dressed, dip it into cold water to take off the loose spice, bind it up tightly with a wide tape and put it into a pan with a crust of flour and water; set it in the oven and bake it six hours. When it is cold, take off the paste a"nd tape, glaze it and garnish it with savory jelly. The gravy is very fine, and adds greatly to the flavor of soups, hashes, etc. It keeps good for some time. 9 130 BEEF BEEF KIDNEYS. — Cut the kidneys in 2 slices, lengthwise; soak an hour in salted water, then wipe dry; dip them in a beaten egg, roll in cracker dust, and broil over a clear fire. Kidneys may be stewed until tender in a very little water, and seasoned; then thicken the broth, and serve, STUFFED LIVER — Scald slices of liver in boiling water with a little salt; make dressing as for poultry; put a layer of thin slices of salt pork on the bottom of a deep baking^dish or the shortdiandled frying-pan; then spread half the liver on the pork and place the dressing on it. Cover the dressing with the remaining half of the liver, cover with a pan or plate, and bake an hour. DEVILED LIVER.— Chop very fine 3 lbs. of liver and i lb. of salt pork, both uncooked. Then mix ^ pint of bread crumbs, 3 ta- blespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of pepper, ^ teaspoon cayenne, and ^ teaspoon of mace and cloves; add and mix well with the chopped liver and pork; put it in a covered sauce^pan, and set that in a sauce- pan of cold water. Cover the sauce=pan and place on the fire to boil 2 hours. Take out the mold, uncover, and let it stand in an open oven to let the steam escape. This is a cold dish. BEEF A LA MODE. — Cut the bone from a round of beef, and fill the space with bread and butter dressing, or a dressing made with onions and spiced with herbs. Put a bandage around it to keep it in shape, and put it in a pot just large enough to hold it; add about a pint of water, cover tightly, and bake 3 hours. Good either hot or cold. MOCK DUCK. — Take a good piece of upper round steak, make a dressing as for turkey, and spread it over the steak; roll it up and wind it with a string. Bake it as you would roast beef, but not so long. It can be served hot, or allowed to cool with the string around it, when it can be cut in thin slices for luncheon or tea. If served cold, garnish handsomely with sliced lemon and green parsley. Mock Duck No. 2. — Make a dressing the same as for turkey, put it in a round of beefsteak which has been salted and peppered, and sew it up; then roast it with 2 or 3 slices of salt pork on top, and baste it frequently. It will be equal to duck. BEEF OMELET — Chop finely 1 pound of raw beef; roll 3 crackers to a powder, and mix with them ^ teaspoon of baking powder; beat well 2 eggs, and then mix all together with a seasoning of salt, pepper and powdered herbs; put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a pudding^dish, let it just melt, then place the mixture in a cake BEEF 131 in the dish, flatten down into a flat cake in the bottom of the pud- ding^dish, and bake ^ hour. Take it up on a hot platter, spread the top with soft butter, and send to the table hot. Good for supper or breakfast in cold weather. For breakfast, serve hot corn=meal muf- fins with the omelet. BEEF POT PIE — A good dinner which combines the needed variety of foods in 1 dish, is a beef or mutton stew. Two pounds of cheap meat, neck of mutton, shin or round of beef, is enough for 4 to 6 people. Cut the meat in inch pieces, season with salt and pepper, and roll in flour. Put the bones in cold water and heat slowly; when boiling, put in the meat, already browned in a frying=pan, with a lit- tle hot fat. Add 1 or 2 small onions sliced and fried with the meat, if liked; a stalk of celery, or ^ cup of strained tomato, also gives a nice flavor. Simmer an hour, then add a medium^sized carrot and turnip, cleaned and cut in ^ inch squares; cook 2 hours, or till the meat is tender; ^ hour before serving, put in 6 potatoes already pared, quartered and parboiled to draw out their strong juice. Taste and season more if liked, and skim all fat from the top; 10 minutes before dinner time, put in the dumpling and cook without removing the cover. The Dumj)lmgs : 1 pint of flour, ^ teaspoon of salt, 2 tea- spoons baking powder, sifted together and mixed into a soft dough with 1 cup more or less of milk or water. Drop from the tip of the spoon into the boiling stew, cover closely, and in 10 minutes take up on a hot platter or place around the platter on which the stew is served. POT=ROAST OF BEEF.— Take 5 or 6 pounds of the round of beef, remove the bone, put slices of suet in the bottom of a deep pot, and fry out the fat; leave the bits of suet in the bottom of the kettle, put in the beef in a round shape, and add a pint of hot water; put on the stove where it will cook slowly. Cover well after sprinkling on a little salt, pepper, and sweet herbs, if liked. It should cook 2 or 3 hours, and at last uncover it and rapidly cook out all the water, until it begins to fry in the bottom of the kettle; when it is nicely browned on the bottom, take up on a platter, the browned side up, and pour over it any fat left in the pot. Good, warm or cold. Cut in thin slices it makes nice sandwiches. PRESSED BEEF.— Take any kind of beef, stew it till the bones fall out, pick it over carefully, removing all gristle, and chop flnely. Season to taste with pepper and salt, and add any herbs or spices de- sired. Put it in a brick-shaped pan with a flaring top, put another pan on top, and weight with flat=irons or other convenient weight. 132 BEEF When cold, serve in slices. Thus prepared, cheap and tough pieces of meat may be made delicious. ROAST BEEF.— The best pieces for roasting are the first and second cut of the sirloin. The next to be preferred are the first cut of the rib and the back of the rump. Dredge with flour, salt, and pep- per, place in dripping-pan with very little sikloin. water; baste frequently. If a large piece of beef (10 or 12 pounds) allow 15 minutes to every pound; a small I)iece, 10 minutes to every pound. Make a gravy of the dripping. After carefully skimming off all the grease, pour the remainder into a sauce=pan, mix a little brown flour carefully so as not to have any lumps, and stir 'into the liquid while boiling; boil 3 minutes and it is ready to serve. ROAST RIBS OF BEEF.— Take a 2 or 3 rib roast, have ribs sawed across 3 times at least, with no seasoning of any kind as that injures the flavor of the meat. Set on bricks in a very hot oven, sear over, and when well browned decrease heat by opening the door and closing the dampers; then cook slowly for 1 hour if liked rare, or 1^ hours if well done. ROAST BEEF AND YORKSHIRE PUDDING.— Into 2 cups flour mix 1 teaspoon baking pow^der, and a pinch of salt; add 1 cup milk, beat till smooth, and add another cup of milk. Put it in hot gemspans and bake; baste it with beef drippings. Serve it with the roast beef. The batter is often poured under the beef to bake, but this is a better way. SPICED BEEF.— Boil 2 or 3 pounds of fat beef slowly until the bones will easily separate from the meat; then take it out, take out all the bones, and chop the meat (fat and lean together) while hot; season with salt, white pepper and sifted sweet herbs — sage, thyme, parsley, or any best liked. Mix all thoroughly and put in a brick* shaped bread pan to become cold for the next day. The broth can be used for a soup the next day. Serve the spiced meat, cut in slices, with potatoes, baked, or cooked in any way liked. BOILED TONGUE. — If the tongue is salted, soak over night in plenty of cold water; the next morning put it over the fire with enough cold water to cover it, and boil slowly 3 or 4 hours, according to the size; skin the tongue while hot and set away to cool. When cold, cut in very thin slices, excepting the extreme tip, which can be BEEF 133 used for making side dishes. If the tongue is fresh, then soak it over night in cold water in which is a handful of salt; the next morn- ing put it over the fire and cook slowly, and proceed in the same manner as with salted tongue. TRIPE. — ^^Tripe is usually sold already boiled and pickled, and is a good food if cider vinegar is used for a pickle; if any of the miner- al acids are used, it will unfavorably affect the digestion. After coming from the market, it is sometimes broiled, spread with butter, and served with baked potatoes. It can be put on a platter and set on the grate in the oven until hot and then spread with butter ; again, it can be fried brown in the frying=pan with a little butter, and sea- soned with any of the piquant meat sauces. It may also be cut in strips, soaked 10 or 12 hours in salt and vinegar, wiped dry, and fried in hot lard. It can be stewed also. Fricasseed Tripe. — Cut in narrow strips 1 lb. of tripe and add to it 1 cup of milk, or part water; put in a piece of butter the size of an egg, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with 1 tablespoon of flour, stirred with a little cold milk or water. Let it simmer gently for ^ hour, and serve hot. It may be improved by a bunch of parsley" cut small and put with it. BEEFSTEAK. — Broiled Steak. — Grease the gridiron with suet. Have it hot. Put on the steak over hot coals. In a moment, when the steak is colored, turn it over. Watch and turn frequently. Do not let out the juice by sticking a fork in it. Remove to a hot platter. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper and butter well. Set plat- ter into oven a few minutes, to let butter soak well in. Serve hot. The juice of a good steak is inside of it — not a gravy in the dish. Broiled Chopped Beefsteak (called Salisbury steak). — Take 2 lbs. of raw beefsteak and chop fine in a chopping bowl; then press together in flat pieces, each one large enough for 1 person, and broil over a bed of coals. This is nice for an invalid or person with poor teeth, especially if tender steak cannot be had. Beefsteak and Oysters. — Broil the steak the usual way. Put 1 qt. of oysters with very little of the liquor into a stew^^pan upon the flre; when it comes to a boil, take off the scum that may rise, stir in 3 ounces of butter mixed with a tablespoon of sifted flour; let it boil one minute until it thickens; pour it over the steak and serve hot. Beefsteak Pie. — Put about 2 pounds of steak (round steak will an- swer) into a sauce=pan with a gill of water; put on the cover and sim- mer for an hour; then cut the steak into small pieces about | inch square; put them into a white pudding^dish, thicken the juice with a 134 BEEF tablespoon of corn-starch, season with salt, pepper, and herbs, also with garlic or onion if liked, and pour it over the meat; then cover with a rich pie crust and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown. This is good to serve at luncheons. A less expensive pie can be made by covering the meat with a nice baking-powder biscuit dough. Bake this also until it is nicely browned. Time, about If hours. Beefsteak, Rolled. — Put a slice of round steak on the meat^board, sprinkle on a little salt and pepper, and put on bits of butter, with a little chopped onion if liked, and a little sifted sage; spread over it mashed potatoes, or sliced raw potatoes, and roll it up; wind with a string and fasten the ends with skejvers; put in a baking^pan with a pint of water and bake slowly an hour; baste often. Beefsteak Smothered in Onions — Cut 6 onions very fine, put them in a sauce=pan with 2 cups hot water, 2 oz. butter, some pepper, salt, and dredge in flour; let stew until the onions are quite soft. Have the steak broiled, put it into the sauce=pan with the onions, let sim- mer 5 or 10 minutes; send to the table very hot. Hamburg Steak. — Lay your beefsteak on the meat=board, salt and pepper it as required; peel and slice a few onions and cover the steak. Then with chopping=knife chop all together until like hash, and fry in hot fat, either in balls like sausage, or plain. Leave out the onions unless you know everyone at the table likes them. This is delicious. MINCED BEEF. 2 cups of cold minced beef. 1 teacup of gravy. 1 shallot, or small onion, 1 tablespoon of Chutnee sauce. 1 bunch of parsley. Butter the size of an egg. Put the butter in a sauce-pan, slice and fry the onion until a yel- lowish brown, add the gravy, then the chopped parsley; stir in the chutnee, add the beef, and let it get hot, but do not re^cook. Serve it on a platter garnished with parsley and fried bread. Time, 20 to 30 minutes. BOILED DINNER.— Boil the corn^beef early in the day; when tender, take it out and skim the fat oflp the meat liquor; then, about 1 hour before dinner, put into the boiling meat liquor the carrots first, having them washed and scraped; a little later put in the cabbage which has been quartered, and the turnips which have been pared and sliced; last, about \ hour before dinner, put in the potatoes (peeled) and a crook-neck squash, peeled and sliced. Boil the beets by themselves. When done, take up the vegetables, put the cabbage in a colander and press out the water, cut up the carrots, and serve VEAL 135 the pieat and vegetables separately. Try to serve them as attractive- ly as possible. This is better than boiling meat and vegetables together. MOCK SAUSAGE.— Take 1 lb. of cold beef and chop fine; then take 3 tablespoons of chopped or mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 1 table- spoon of flour, and a small slice of bread; moisten the bread with milk or water, stir all together, add salt, pepper, and a little sage, or chop an onion in. Make in small balls, and shape like slices of sau- sage. Fry in a little hot fat like potato balls, and when brown on one side, turn over and brown the other. SAUSAGE ROLL. — Make a dough as for baking powder biscuit; roll out and cut in large rounds with a large biscuit cutter; lay fine sausage meat on half of each piece, turn the other half over and pinch together; lay close together in a baking- tin or dripping-pan, and bake ^ hour. These are good either hot or cold. PRESERVING MEAT — In cold weather when meat is plentiful, it can be preserved for a long time by treating it in the following manner: Take large pieces of the fore-quarter of beef (the cheap pieces of the neck and shoulders); boil it slowly in just water enough to cover, until it is tender; add a little salt for the last hour; let it stand until quite cold, then mince it finely; season well with pepper, and last, pack tightly in a stone jar, put a few whole cloves on the top, then pour over it hot, melted beef suet. When this gets cold, cover the jar with a cloth, then with the cover, and store in a cool room. This is ready to use for mince pies, and for slicing to put in a potato pie, or it can be cut in slices and served cold with hot baked potatoes, for breakfast. VEAL. Veal should be thoroughly cooked, for cases are not uncommon of illness arising from eating under^dpne veal. The flesh is rather indigestible. No meat is more useful for making stews and gravies than veal. It needs much seasoning as it is deficient in flavor, and while it is richer in gelatine than beef, it has less nitrogen. It con- tains the least heat producing elements of any meat, and is best eaten with bacon and jelly, rice or potatoes, etc., which supply the elements it lacks. Old Veal. — This is most delicious meat and but little known. It is a calf kept yarded near the house, fed liberally with skimmed 136 VEAL milk, vegetables of all kinds, and fattened to the age of 5 or 6 months in this way, then killed in the fall when the vegetables are gone. It is dressed and used like beef. BREAKFAST VEAL. — Butter a small oval dish very thoroughly, and fill with bits of cold, stewed veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg; put in alternately with layers of bread crumbs; moisten with gravy, put bits of butter over the top, and bake. When it is brown, turn out of the dish on a hot platter and garnish with parsley. If not too moist, it will keep its form when turned out. Time to bake, 20 to 30 minutes. VEAL, CREAMED — Chop cold veal, or cut in small, thin slices, leaving out the stringy part for your stock kettle. If you have a pint of meat, it is enough for a handsome dish. Put 1 teacup of rich milk into the teakettle pail, and, when hot, add 1 tablespoon of flour and 1 of butter, rubbed together. Let it boil up, and then stir in the veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, and a slice of onion. When hot, pour on a platter edged with leaves of puff pastry, and lay a few on the top of the mince. The leaves can be made of remnants of pastry when you are making pies. CALF'S BRAINS — Remove all the fibrous membrane which covers them, and throw into a pint of cold water containing ^ tea- spoon salt and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Boil 3 minutes, and plunge into cold water. When cold, cut itito small pieces, season with salt and pepper; egg and bread-crumb, and fry in a little hot drippings. They may be prepared early in the day if for dinner, or the night before if for breakfast, and they may be served plain or with tomato sauce. VEAL CUTLETS, BREADED.— Egg and bread= crumb the cutlets, and fry them in smoking hot fat, turning them until well done — time 4 to 6 minutes. Then take up and pour over them a good brown gravy; serve hot. They may be garnished veal c^utlet. with parsley. CALF'S LIVER, FRIED.— Cut the liver in thin slices, pour hot water over, to blanch it; let stand in the water while you fry the fat from ^ dozen slices of breakfast bacon; take out the bacon and cut a large onion in slices and fry brown; then fry the liver, after drying it in a cloth; after the liver is brown on both sides, sprinkle over it a little salt and a teaspoon of curry powder; cover and stev/ 20 min- utes. VEAL 137 CALF'S LIVER STEWED.— Wash and lard a calf's liver; chop 1 turnip, 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery, and 1 onion, and place then? in the bottom of a deep baking^pan; place the liver on top, sprinkle salt and pepper over the whole, and pour on a pint of boiling water; cover the pan', and place in a moderate oven for 2 hours; when done, remove the liver, put a teaspoon of butter into a frying-pan, and place over the fire to heat; add the liquor strained from the veg- etables, and a little flour, stir until it begins to boil, then add a table- spoon of Worcestershire sauce; pour over the liver and serve at once. ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.— Bone the joint, make a deep in- cision between the fillet and saddle, and fill with dressing made as for poultry; bind the joint in round form and fasten with skewers and twine, and roast slowly, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound. Baste well with butter, dredge over a little flour, and butter well; make gravy of drippings, with the juice of a lemon added; garnish the platter on which the meat is served with slices of lemon and parsley. VEAL LOAF. — Chop 3^ lbs. of lean and fat raw veal very fine, with 1 slice of salt pork; add 6 crackers rolled fine, butter the size of an egg, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of pepper and 1 of sage; mix this thoroughly and pack it tightly in a deep, square tin; sprinkle over the top a little melted butter and fine cracker crumbs. Cover it with another tin and bake 2 hours; uncover and brown the top. Serve cold in thin slices. This is very nice for a picnic lunch. VEAL MAYONNAISE.— Cut pieces of cold veal into bits, not as small as dice; put in an equal c[uantity of celery, cut in small pieces; mix thoroughly, and pour over it a little of the dressing, reserving the rest to put over the top when it is arranged in the dish; garnish with lettuce leaves, and hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Lettuce can be substituted for celery. MOLDED VEAL. — Cut thin slices of cold roasted veal, put them in the bottom of a pan, season with pepper, salt, and chopped celery; add a layer of hard-boiled eggs sliced thin, then a layer of thinly^ sliced, cold boiled ham, and in this way fill the pan. Pour over it enough stock to cover the 'meat, and bake in the oven 1 hour. Let it stand until cold, and serve in thin slices. VEAL POT=PIE.— Take 2 or 3 pounds of fat veal,' cut it in small pieces, and put over the fire in cold water. When it comes to the boiling point, skim well, then cook slowly about an hour; do not boil rapidly, as that tends to make the meat hard. At the end of an hour 138 VEAL sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a sliced onion if liked by all, and, a handful of washed rice to thicken it a little. Pare and slice enough potatoes for the family, and add to the stew; when the broth boils again, after putting in the potatoes, add dumplings made of baking-powder biscuit dough, or crust made from recipe for pot=pie crust, and boil ^ hour. POT=PIE CRUST. — One pint sour milk, 1 teacup sour cream, 1 teaspoon soda; mix hard like bread, let it stand 1 hour to rise; never roll nor cut, but nip it off in pieces the size you want, let boil 30 minutes, without lifting the lid, and you will always have them like a pufP. VEAL=AND=HAM PIE. — Cut the veal into very small pieces and put a layer on the bottom of a j)udding^dish; sprinkle over it a sea- soning of salt, pepper and powdered herbs (sage, thyme, summer savory, etc.), then lay on thin slices of cold boiled ham, fat and lean together, then another layer of veal, and so proceed to fill the dish; pour in enough cold stock or water to cover the meat, having sliced ham on the top; cover the top with a thick puff paste, and bake an hour in a hot oven. Put a dish of hot water in the oven to prevent scorching the crust. When this is cold, it should be a firm jelly inside. "It's a vealsand^ham pie," said Mr. Boffin. " Is it indeed, sir? And it would be hard, sir, to name the pie that is a better pie than a weel and hammer," said Mr. Wegg. ROAST VEAL PIE. — Cut cold roast veal into slices, with the stuffing, and lay them in a deep dish, adding pepper and salt; dredge lightly with flour, and put in the gravy that was left, with a little hot water added to it; a dish that holds 3 pints will require 1 cup of gravy. Cover the top of the pie with a crust made as follows: Crust. — One pint of flour with 2 teaspoons of baking-powder sifted through it; add a piece of butter as large as ^ an egg, rubbing it into the flour with the hand. Wet with some sweet milk, enough to make a dough as soft as you can handle it. Different qualities of flour differ in the quantity of wetting required. Bake till brown — about 1 hour. SCALLOPED VEAL. — Mince cold veal very fine. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered pudding=dish, season with pepper, salt and a very little nutmeg; then put in a thin layer of fine cracker crumbs, then another layer of meat, and so on until the dish is full. Wet with good broth; if you have no broth, make a little by boiling the bones and trimmings of your veal. Put over the top a layer of cracker crumbs, wet into a paste with a little milk, and mixed with a VEAL 139 beaten egg. If your oven is not very slow, it is best to cover the dish with a pan for the first ^ hour, and tlien let it brown 10 minutes after you uncover it. Time, about 1^ hours. SPICED VEAL. 3 lbs. veal cut fine. 3 Boston crackers rolled fine. 1 large slice fat pork. ^ teacup of catsup. 3 eggs beaten well. 1 lemon, rind and juice. The salt and pepper should be mixed with the crackers; mix all, moisten with water and butter. Bake 2 hours. SMOTHERED VEAL — Place in the bottom of a baking^pan 3 or 4 potatoes sliced, 1 small onion sliced, 2 slices of salt pork cut into strips; season with salt, pepper and sage; place over this 3 or 4 pounds of veal from the breast, or any other part desired; cover the meat with sliced potatoes, onion and other seasoning; sprinkle over all a tablespoon of flour, add a pint of water, cover the pan with another one, and place in the oven and cook 1^ hours, adding water if it cooks dry. VEAL STEW. — Cut up 2 pounds of veal, and after having wash- ed it carefully, put it in the dinner=pot; add 3 pints of water, put in 1 onion, pepper and salt, and let it stew an hour; then add sliced potatoes, and take a crust made with a pint of flour, a cup of sour milk, and ^ a teaspoon of soda sifted through the flour, a pinch of salt- cut up in squares, dust a little flour over them, lay them in on top, cover closely and cook ^ an hour. VEAL TOAST. — One cup of chopped veal, 1 cup of hot water, a piece of butter as large as a butternut, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ^ tea- spoon of pepper. Have ready on a platter, slices of bread toasted brown, and buttered; if the crusts are hard, dip the edges in hot wa- ter. Heat the minced veal thoroughly hot, pour it on the toast, and serve at once. SWEETBREADS. — At once on coming from the butcher (and that should be as soon as possible after the animal is killed) sweet- breads should be soaked 1 or 2 hours in cold water, and then cooked about 20 minutes in boiling water containing 1 teaspoon each of salt and lemon juice; then plunge them into cold water to harden them;, take out and put into a towel to drain out all the water, and remove the pipes and membranes. They may then be cut into thin slices and broiled; or egged and bread^crumbed and fried in hot fat; or sauted; or stewed in a very little water, and seasoned with salt, pep- per and butter. Serve with any of the meat sauces best liked by the individual. 140 MUTTON AND LAMB SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.— After preparing 2 pairs of sweetbreads as above, cut them into dice, and also cut up and add ^ box of mushrooms. Into a sauce=pan put 1 large tablespoon of but- ter, and when it bubbles, sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of flour; cook well and add ^ cup gream or soup stock; heat and add the sweet- breads and mushrooms; when well heated, lift from the fire and add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; form into croquettes when cool, then egg and bread=crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. CREAMED SWEETBREADS.— Prepare as above, and then with a silver knife pick them in pieces ; then put 1 tablespoon butter in the * sauce=pan; melt without browning it, add 1 tablespoon flour, stir till smooth; add 1 cup cream and the sweetbreads, stir till it thickens; lift from the stove, season with salt and pepper and serve. Time, 20 to 30 minutes. Sweetbreads consist of the Thymus Gland found in the neck of veal and lamb. It decreases in size and flavor as the animal grows older. The glands are found in the back part of the throat and in the breast. There should always be 2 of them, although they are sometimes sold separately. The heart sweetbread is so called because it lies nearest the heart. It is the lower one and is round in shape. The throat sweetbread is the upper one, and is long and narrow. They are a great del- icacy (those of the calf are most esteemed) and if properly prepared make a fine dish to tempt the appetite of the invalid, although opinions differ somewhat as to their digestibility. The pancreatic gland of the bullock (that is, the gland near the stomach which secretes the pancreatic juice which aids in digesting the food) is sometimes sold as sweetbreads, but it is inferior in quality to the thymus gland of young animals and requires long and careful washing and cooking. MUTTON AND LAMB. Within the limits of wholesomeness, mutton varies immensely in quality and flavor. It is often thought more digestible than beef and is therefore prescribed for invalids. All young meat is less digestible and is also less nourishing than full-grown, but lamb has a better re- pute in this respect than veal. Although mutton may be served rare, lamb should be thoroughly cooked always. The strong flavor of mut- ton, which is disagreeable to many, comes from the penetration through the skin of the oil from the wool; the thin outside skin should be taken off before cooking the meat. Mutton should always be served on hot plates in the winter, never allowing any cold mutton tallow to appear on the edges and disfigure the dish. BOILED MUTTON.— Cut off the superfluous fat from a breast of mutton, remove as much of the bone as will bring it into shape for the kettle, add water to only half cover it, and cover the kettle tight- ly; let it boil gently for an hour, then turn it in the kettle, and sea- MUTTON AND LAMB 141 son with salt, pepper and herbs if liked. Add a little more water if needed, and boil for another hour; then serve with caper sauce. A mutton ham can be boiled in the above manner with another half hour's time. A leg of lamb also can be cooked in this way in about 1| hours. MUTTON CHOPS.— Remove a portion of the fat and trim them into a nice shape; place the gridiron over a bright, clear fire, rub the bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequent- ly turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season with pepper and salt. Serve hot on a hot dish. Or they can be bak- ed in a dripping=pan in a hot oven, basting frequently; they are very nice this way. They can also be fried' on a f rying=pan, having it very hot, and using no other fat than that from the chop. As soon as one side is seared (in about 1 minute) turn over on the other; then finish the cooking more slowly. Sprinkle salt on each side when almost done. MUTTON AND RICE.— Mince into dice, pieces of cold mutton or lamb; add 1 cup of cold boiled rice to 1 cup of meat; butter the sauce^pan thoroughly, pour in a little water, add the mutton and rice, and stir until it is hot; then pour in 2 eggs slightly beaten, and stir until the eggs are cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste. MUTTON PATTIES.— Mince cold mutton, fat and lean together, and season with salt and pepper; if the mutton is lean, add a piece' of butter and warm all together in a sauce=pan, with a little water to make it moist; put it in patty=pans, and cover the top with mashed potatoes; put a bit of butter in a little dent in the center and bake in the oven to a delicate brown — about 10 or 15 minutes. Serve hot in the patty-pans. MUTTON PIES. — Mince coarsely, cold mutton, fat and lean together, and put in the bottom of a pudding=dish- Sprinkle with salt and pepper, with a little butter if the mutton is not fat, then cover deeply with hot mashed potatoes; set in the oven to brown a little, and to let the pudding^dish get thoroughly hot — about 10 or 15 minutes. Serve with hot plates. Warming cold minced meats, as a pie with mashed potatoes, is one of the best ways of re=warming any kind of fish or cold meat — the most appe^-.izing and the most economical. MUTTON OR LAMB PIE — Cut finely, bits of raw mutton or lamb; put to stew in just water enough to cover, and cook slowly until the bones, if there are any, will separate from the meat. Put them in a pudding-dish, season and thicken the gravy, and pour over 142 . MUTTON AND LAMB the meat in the baking=dish. Make a nice baking-powder biscuit dough, and cover the pie; bake until the crust is a golden brown. MUTTON RECHAUFFE. — Slice an onion and fry it brown in the pan, with a little good butter; then put in a pint of good stock, or water, if you have no stock, and let it come to boiling. Thicken with a teaspoon of corn=starch wet in a little water. When it has boiled, strain out the onion, and add salt and pepper to taste. Have cold sliced mutton on a hot platter; pour the hot sauce over it, and send to the breakfast table with hot plates. Time, 20 to 30 minutes. SCRAMBLED MUTTON.— Take 2 cups of cold chopped mutton or lamb, 2 tablespoons of hot water, a piece of butter the size of an English walnut. When the meat is hot, break into it 3 eggs and cook until the eggs begin to stiffen, stirring constantly. Season with pepper and salt. Time, 10 to 20 minutes. IRISH STEW. — This is a nice and economical dish, and can be made from any kind of meat, the best being the best end of the neck of mutton. Remove nearly all the fat from 2 lbs. of meat, and cut it into chops. Peel and slice 3 lbs. potatoes, and also slice 1^ pounds onions. Put a layer of potatoes in the kettle, then a layer of onions, then meat; pepper and salt it well, and so put in all the materials in layers. Add 1 or 2 cups water, cover closely, and let it stew {not boil) 2 or 3 hours. SCOTCH STEW. — Cut 2 pounds of fresh mutton into small pieces; put them into a stew-pan with 3 quarts of cold water and a tablespoon of salt; set it upon the fire, and cook very slowly, letting it simmer, and keeping it well skimmed. After it has simmered an hour, add a large carrot, 2 turnips, 2 large onions, all cut in pieces, and 2 small heads of cabbage. Let the whole simmer until tender, 1 to 1^ hours, and serve it with the various ingredients. MUTTON AND TOMATOES.— Cut cold roast mutton in thin slices, fat and lean together; put it on a hot platter, and pour over it 5 or 6 tomatoes, stewed, and seasoned with salt, pepper, a bay leaf, a little pulverized sage, and a bit of onion, if liked. If the mutton is lean, add a piece of butter the size of an q^^ to the tomatoes. There should not be much juice of the tomatoes, and the excess should be poured off before seasoning. Good for breakfast with baked potatoes and toast BOILED SHEEP'S TONGUES. -Boil \ doz. tongues until ten- der, in water which is salted and contains the juice of ^ a lemon Serve cold. Sauce Tartare is excellent to serve with them. Time to boil 2 or 3 hours, slowly. MUTTON AND LAMB 143 ESCALLOPED LAMB — Chop coarsely, cold lamb, either baked or boiled, and put a layer in a pudding=dish with a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and little bits of butter, then a layer of bread crumbs, and thus fill the dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top; fill the dish with hot water up to the top layer of crumbs, and bake until the crumbs are browned — about 1 hour. LAMB'S LIVER, CURRIED — Cut it in convenient slices to serve, soak in salted water for 5 minutes, while an onion is frying in salt pork fat; take the liver from the water, dry in a cloth, then put it into a pan and fry brown on both sides. Have the fat hot, and fry quickly. When brown, add a little water or stock, dust with salt and a little curry powder, cover, and simmer 10 minutes. LAMB, GRILLED — Take a cold shoulder of lamb, and score the meat deeply at ^ inch distances ; prepare a teaspoon of salt, 1 of white pepper, a saltspoon of cayenne, a trifle of onion juice, and the strained juice of a lemon; rub this into the meat at night. In the morning, put it on a gridiron over a clear, coal fire, and thoroughly heat through ; put on a hot platter and spread with softened butter. Send to the table with hot plates. KID — This is cooked in the various ways given for lamb, and is much like lamb after being cooked. SHEEP'S BRAINS — Remove the skin and blood vessels and put them in warm water for 2 hours; then put them in boiling water, containing a little salt and vinegar, and leave until firm; then take out and put in very cold water. Then drain, dry, brush with oil, and roll in crumbs, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Pilt slices of bacon on them, and bake in a well heated oven, basting frequently. When nicely browned, take up, put the slices of bacon on toast, and lay the brains on the bacon. Serve with tomato, Tartare, or some acid sauce. MEAT ROLY POLY. 4 cups flour. 1 teacup milk. 2 teaspoons baking-powder. 1 teaspoon salt. Do not use any shortening, but mix and roll out ^ inch thick, and spread minced mutton, veal or chicken on it. Have the meat free from gristle, and season it with pepper and salt. Then roll the crust over and over, and put it on a buttered plate, and steam in the steamer ^ hour. Serve for breakfast or lunch, giving a slice to each person, with gravy served with it. 144 PORK PORK. Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the greatest care. If it is killed and the flesh eaten when in an un- healthy condition, those who eat it will probably pay dearly for their indulgence. Care should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, as it is most indigestible when under-dressed. Uncooked or under= cooked pork should on no account be eaten. Exposure to the tem- perature of boiling water effectually kills the trichina, but obviously every part of the meat, inside and out, must be fully heated to destroy all the trichina, and there is no safety without that. To freshen salt pork or ham, after cutting in slices, soak it for a few hours, or over night, in milk and water, or in sour milk, which is quite as good; afterwards rinse it until the water is clear, before frying, and it will be as palatable as salt pork can be made. BAKED HAM. — Cover the* ham with cold water (after having thoroughly cleaned it) and simmer gently just long enough to loosen the skin, so that it can be easily taken off — in 2 or 3 hours, if the ham is large. After skinning, place it in a dripping=pan in the oven, and pour over it a teacup of vinegar, and 1 of water; put a little mustard in the water, and baste the ham with this while baking slowly for an hour; then cover the ham all over thickly with sugar, in which is mixed a tablespoon of flour, and bake slowly another hour without hasting. This gives a nice, brown, glazed crust; when it has partly cooled, turn a flat dish on the pot, and put a weight on it, to get thoroughly cold. This latter process insures nice, smooth slices when cut. The juice of a lemon may be substituted for the vinegar, if preferred. HAM BALLS. — With | cup of bread crumbs mix 2 well=beaten eggs and some finely=chopped ham; season with pepper and a very little salt; make into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. BOILED HAM.— To boil a ham it must first be thoroughly washed and scraped in warm water, containing a little baking=soda; then rinse in cold water, put it over the fire, skin side upward in the kettle, with wafer enough to completely cover it; let it slowly simmer 3 or 4 hours, according to the size; if it cooks rapidly, it will break in pieces. When done, take it from the kettle and remove the skin while hot, leaving on all the fat; stick cloves all over the fat part, and put it into the oven, to brown a little. It should be entirely cold be- fore it is cut. Both lean and fat should be served in carving, as many persons like the latter best. Mustard, spiced vinegar, catsup, or pickles, are used as condiments with this. BROIUU t\UjHkV5 "''A * PORK 145 BROILED HAM.— Ham is better broiled than fried. Slice it thin, and broil the slices on a gridiron, and when done on both sides, place on a platter with a fried egg on each slice. It should be broil- ed over bright, hot coals, from 3 to 6 minutes. HAM PATTIES. — Take 1 pint of cold boiled ham, finely chop- ped; mix it with an equal quantity of bread crumbs wet in milk to make a soft batter; put the batter in patty=pans, break a fresh egg over each pan, sprinkle the top of each dish thickly with cracker crumbs, and bake until brown on the top — about 1| hours. ROAST PIG. — The pig should weigh 12 pounds at least, be- fore dressing; the butcher should dress it, leaving on the head and feet, and clean thoroughly; the harslet should be sent with the pig. First cook the liver and heart by boiling about 20 minutes in a little salted water; then chop them finely. Cut a loaf of bread in slices and dip in cold water, chop, and add to the harslet; pour over it a teacup of melted butter, and 2 well^beaten eggs; season with pep- per, salt, sage, and onions if liked. Mix all together, and fill the pig; then sew it together. Bend the front legs under at the knees, and the hind legs forward at the gambrel joint; put a stick in the mouth to keep it open, wind a cord around to keep the legs in place; put in the dripping=pan with a little water, and tin dishes on each side to keep it on the knees. Bake until done — 2 to 3 hours. Baste fre- quently, using melted butter at first; do not let it burn. Put a small red apple or lemon in the mouth before sending to the table, and serve with baked sour apples. ROAST PORK — The loin, chine or spare ribs are best for roast- ing. Rub on salt, pepper and flour, and bake in a moderate oven; baste often. Time, about 20 minutes to the pound. It is best eaten cold. BOILED PIGS' FEET — The 2 front feet should be cleaned, scraped, and to keep them in shape wrap them tightly in muslin, and sew or tie it up; boil 6 or 7 hours moderately; then let them cool, take off the wrapping and they will be like jelly. They can then be split, rolled in crumbs, and broiled or fried. Some acid sauce should be served with them, SPARE=RIBS AND CHINES — These are usually too fat to cook in any other way than by baking or roasting in the oven; in this way much of the superfluous fat is drawn from them. Rub them well with a little fine salt, flour, pepper and pulverized sage, if liked; put them on the rack in the dripping-pan, containing a pint of hot water; the 10 146 PORK oven must be hot, but not enough to scorch the meat; baste often. The meat should bake about 2 hours, or until it is well browned; then take it up, pour off the fat from the gravy, at one corner of the drip- ping-^pan, and thicken the remainder with a tablespoon of flour or corn^starch; add a little water to make about a pint of gravy. Serve with sour baked apples, onions, potatoes and mashed turnips. Shoul- der chine of pork, and loin, are cooked in the same manner. Pork requires long and thorough cooking, for the texture of the flesh is close; fresh spare^ribs particularly require it, to extract all the superfluous fat, and it should be roasted or baked until of a rich brown color. Chine of Poek. — The chine of an animal is the back^bone with the meat attached, and rjribkin (a term obsolete in this countrj') is used in England to desig- nate the back=bone of swine, and particularly that part lying between the shoul- ders of the animal. The chine of pork is more often divided into " fore loin," that part lying between the shoulders; " spare^ribs," or that part containing the long ribs, and " hind4oin," or small part of the spine just above the hams. In Eng- land, the hindsloin is sometimes called a chine when the bone is uncut and the two sides of the loin are in one piece, corresponding to the " baron of beef," or "saddle of mutton." In England these are all roasted, but in this country (the land of Yankee cooking=stoves) all divisions of the chine are cooked exactly like the mid- dle pieces or spare^ribs. PORK CUTLETS. — Take the remains of cold baked pork and cut it in nice pieces of the right size to serve; put a little of the cold fat in a frying=pan and let it get hot; fry a sliced onion brown, then lay in the cutlets, and fry them a light brown in the fat with the onions; take them up, and make a gravy with a little corn=starch and cold water; season with salt and pepper, and when thickened, pour it over the cutlets and serve. PORK AND EGGS.— Cut 2 or 3 slices of salt pork in dice, and fry, often turning it over and over with a fork; then break 5 or 6 fresh eggs and put them in the pan w^ith the pork; stir all together rapidly, and cook until the eggs are set. PORK RECHAUFFE {Reheated) .—Qui finely, cold roast pork, put a layer of this in the bottom of a pan or pudding=dish and season to taste; then a layer of bread crumbs, another layer of cold pork, thus fill the di^^have a layer of fine crumbs on the top, but before putting them on, pour into the dish enough broth or water to moist- en the ingredients; then put crumbs on the toi), and bake until brown on top, about | to 1 hour. Cold baked or roasted pork is more often served cold, nicely sliced, and sent to the table with hot baked, or mashed potatoes. PORK STEAKS— Take slices of fresh pork that have the fat and lean well blended, put on a hot gridiron and broil it thoroughly, over a clear coal fire, turning often, and lifting if the dropping fat PORK 147 blazes to scorch the meat; put it on a hot platter, sprinkle with salt, and send in with baked potatoes. FRIED SALT PORK. — This is a most excellent dish when prop- erly prepared, for those who are blessed with a good digestion. The pork should be of the best quality and " clear fat." Cut the slices nearly | of an inch thick, take off the rind, put in a hot frying-pan, and fry until crisp. Place the pork around the edge of the platter, fry a few eggs for the center, and serve. Salt pork is sometimes dipped in flour or yellow corn=meal before frying, and is excellent. After taking up the pork, a nice milk gravy can be made by adding corn=starch or flour to milk; pour it into the hot fat from the pork, and stir until it is thickened and well blended. This gravy is good with new potatoes; also delicious with buck= wheat muffins. SOUSE. — Clean the ears, feet and gristly part (not the fat) of the pig's head; let them soak 12 hours in brine, then take out, scrape clean, and soak again in fresh brine. Then wash, put them in cold water, and boil gently until the bones loosen from the meat. Then put the meat in jars (not earthenware, or the vinegar will act on it) and cover with boiling hot spiced vinegar. SOUSE PIE. — Cut the toes from the pig's feet, and use the legs up to the ham. Soak and clean well; cut in pieces, and boil in water to cover, with a little salt, until tender. Add a little boiling water from time to time as it evaporates, and turn the meat from the bottom of the kettle with a skimmer to prevent burning. Take out i^e meat when done, and remove the bones; put the meat in a pan, or large pudding^dish, adding a little more salt if necessary; thicken the broth with corn=starch and pour over the meat; cover it with baking=powder biscuit dough, and bake until the dough is well browned. Cheap and good. Time, altogether, 4 or 5 hours. SALT PORK DINNER.— Cut enough slices of salt pork to cover the bottom of the frying=pan; take off the rind; pour hot water over the pork and turn it off immediately; dip each slice in flour, and fry it brown on both sides; take it up on a platter and keep warm. Pour nearly all the fat into another frying=pan and fill it with sour apples already sliced, with the skins on. Sprinkle the apples with a little salt, and cover tightly with a deep, white pie-plate; stew until the apples are soft. In the meantime add a pint of sweet milk to the fat left in the first pan; let it simmer, then thicken with a little flour or corn^starch, and send it to the table in a bowl or gravy=boat. Serve with new potatoes and sweet==corn. 148 POULTRY PORK WORST. — Cut a j)ig's head in pieces, and soak, with the liver and heart, over night in slightly salted water. The next morn- ing wash and put it over the fire to cook slowly, in just water enough to cover it. When the bones will separate, take them all out, and cut the meat in very small pieces; return to the kettle, add salt, pep- per, and any sweet herbs liked; then thicken it to the consistency of mush, with flour; fill square baking^pans with it, and let it get cold; then slice, dip in flour, and fry in salt pork fat. HEAD CHEESE (English Braion). — The cheeks of pig's heads are reserved for salting with the hams and shoulders; the remainder is cut in pieces and soaked over night in salted water; the next morn- ing wash thoroughly, and put over the fire in a kettle with just water enough to cover the meat (the cleansed pig's feet may be added). Simmer slowly until the bones will easily separate from the meat, then take it up in a pan and pick out every bone; cut the meat in small pieces, season tO' taste with salt, pepper, and sifted sage; pour over the broth from the kettle, and put it in a cold pantry to harden. When thoroughly cold, remove the fat from the top of the pan, cut in slices, and serve with hot baked, or mashed potatoes. SAUSAGES, TO COOK. — Sausage cakes are usually fried; when they are in skins, they should be pricked to prevent them from bursting, and they should be turned on all sides to insure thorough cooking. Sausages, especially those made of pork, should always be well cooked, and should never look red in the center when cut. They are best baked, as they are then cooked slowly and are more, thoroughly browned than when fried. Serve with baked potatoes, or mashed potatoes and other vegetables. The large Bologna sausages, made of beef mostly, require a long and thorough boiling for 3 or 4 hours; they are then dried and smoked. They are usually prepared and cooked by the butcher, and are eaten cold. The best thing to serve with pork sausages is apple=^sauce. They garnish a roast turkey nicely. POULTRY. In selecting poultry, choose those which are plump, but not too fat. If they are young, they should be firm to the touch. If the bone across the breast above the hollow skin is hard to the touch, the bird is old; in young ones it is more like gristle. White=legged birds are given the preference by some, because they look better on the table, but black are equally good eating. Dark=fleshed game can be POULTRY 149 eaten rare, but the white=fleshed should always be well done. In preparing poultry great care is required not to break the gall-bladder, for if it is broken, the gall will leave a bitter taste on every place it touches,* which cannot be washed off. Young poultry has not an excess of fat unless it has been " crammed " for that purpose, in which case it should be avoided, as that process affects the health of the fowls. Slightly Tainted Meat. — Poultry and all meats should be cooked immediately if the least sign of taint appears; give it first a thorough washing in soda water, then a rinsing in clear water to which a little vinegar has been added; then either bake or roast it, as that mode of cooking drives away bad odors from meat better than any other. Onion.— It is better to leave onions out of all meat dressings, un- less you are sure they are liked by all at the table, A rich onion sauce can be sent in with them, or boiled onions served as one veg- etable, for those who like them. Overcoming the Strong Smell of Old Fowls. — If old fowls are washed in warm soda water, the strong smell will be overcome. If a roast fowl cannot be served as soon as it is done, put it over a kettle of boiling water and put a dripping-pan over it, which will keep it from drying up. The Garnishes for Fowls. — These are parsley, water cress, horserad- ish, slices of lemon, slices of ham, fried oysters or sausages, and forcemeat-balls. To Draw a Fowl. — Place the fowl on its back, and make a slit lengthwise in the skin of the neck from the body to the head; free the neck from the skin, and cut off the neck as close to the body as possible; then cut the skin, leaving a flap at least B inches long hanging to the breast. Loosen the crop and the windpipe, and insert the first finger, keeping it close to the inside surface of the body; work it round, breaking all the ligaments with which it comes in contact, thus loosening the contents of the carcass. Be careful not to thrust the finger into the centre, for if the galhbladder is broken, the gall will impart a bitter taste to whatever it may touch. Turn the bird, slightly enlarge the opening at the vent, insert the finger, and loosen the insides from the carcass at that end. Turn the bird again, and place it on its back; press the breast with the thumbs, and push out the gizzard by the hole at the vent; take hold of it and pull steadily, when the whole of the interior should be brought away entire. If all the insides are removed, little washing will be needed. Wipe it out with a damp cloth, or rinse quickly and wipe dry. If the breast bone protrudes too much, put a cloth over 150 POULTRY it and beat it down flat, putting something like a pestle inside to pound on. To Truss a Fowl. — After stuffing the fowl, sew the skin of the neck over the back. Then run a long skewer through the pinion and then through the body and out through the other pinion, press- ing them close to the body. Also press a skewer through the thigh and body and out through the other thigh. Pass a string over the projecting ends of the skewers and tie it firmly at the back, to keep the bird firmly trussed. The legs can be crossed over the tail and firmly tied. The wings and thighs can be tied in place by winding a string around the body, if you have no skewers; cut the string off carefully when done, so as not to tear the flesh. Boned Poultry. — Cut through the skin down the center of the back, and raise the flesh carefully on either side, with the point of a sharp knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Until a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be best to bone their joints before proceeding further; but after they are once detached from it, the whole body may be easily separated from the flesh, and taken out entire; only the neck, bones, and the merry- thought will then remain to be removed. The fowl thus prepared may either (1) be restored to its original form by filling the legs and wings with stuffing; the body of the bird, also, should be filled . with stuffing, and then the skin on the back should be sewn together, and the fowl trussed as usual. Or (2) the legs and wings may be •drawn into the body, and the remaining space be filled with the dressing. Plain Dressing. — Take slices of stale bread (do not remove the crusts) dip it in cold water, and chop in the tray; season with salt and pepper, and for ^ loaf of bread soften a teacup of butter and stir into the bread; add a beaten raw egg and stir that in well. Fill the cavity in the fish or *meat, but do not crowd it in; sew up, or wind the meat with a string, and when done, this will, be light and crumbly — not pasty, as when made with hot water, nor hard, as when stuffed into the fish or fowl. This is excellent for fish, poul- try, game, etc. Poultry Stuffing.— Take a loaf of light bread, chop fine; add a little melted butter, or cream, and 2 eggs. Some savory summer celery leaves improve it often, with warm water and milk. Various Stuffings. — For fowls a variety may be had by adding to the plain dressing, dates, stoned raisins, chopped celery, etc. A little ingenuity will devise many varieties. POULTKY 151 Oyster Stuffing. — Take a small loaf of baker's bread, remove the crust, and crumb the bread very fine; pour on hot water enough to moisten it, and cover it tight. Chop 1 large onion and a qt. of oysters, take -| cup of melted butter, 1 teaspoon of powdered sage, and salt to taste. Mix all together, and if the oyster liquor does not make it moist enough, add a little more hot water. Chestnut Stuffing. — Blanch, boil, and mash, 12 large chestnuts. Cook the liver of the fowl, mince it fine, and add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon each of salt and minced onion, 1 tablespoon chopped ham, 2 tablespoons grated bread, a little lemon juice and white pepper; mix all with the mashed chestnuts^ and use for stuffing. The chestnut is said to have come originally from Lydia. It has been used for food from very ancient times. It attains a great age. As a food it is the least oily of all the nuts, and the easiest of digestion. It contains 15 per cent, of sugar, and a large proportion of starch. They can be preserved so as to keep good for years. The tree called horse-chestnut is altogether different and its fruit is not suitable to eat. chestnut. BOILED CHICKEN.— Pluck, singe, wash, and bone them, fill with any dressing liked; do not crowd in the dressing; sew up, and boil gently for an hour or more. To prevent the skin from breaking, roll each one up in a separate cloth. For salads, and cold sliced chicken, they may be boiled in a kettle with the water slightly salted, and without the dressing. Boil until the meat will start from the bones, and let them get entirely cold before cutting for salads; then they can be skinned and all the meat served in a much nicer manner than when the bones are taken out before cooling. CHICKEN FRICASSEE.— Take 2 young chickens, cut them up, X3ut them in a stew=pan, merely cover with cold water, cover with the x^an, and stew until tender; then season with salt and pepper, and 2 tablespoons of butter. A little celery can be added if liked. Add 2 tablespoons of flour, wet with a little milk or water, and the well beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which are mixed with a little of the cooled gravy, before being added; bring all to a ,boil, and then put the chicken on a warm plate, and pour on part of the gravy, sending the balance to the table in a boat. If old fowls are used, they will need longer stewing than chicken — 3 or 4 hours being none too much. SOUTHERN FRICASSEE.— Cut up chicken as for a fricassee. Dry each piece and dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker dust; sea- son with pepper and salt, and fry each piece very brown in half butter and half lard. When well browned, add 1 cup of hot water, 152 POULTRY cover and simmer f hour. Then take out chicken and put on plate in warming oven. Have ready a bowl of rice — cooked; put it into frying=pan which the chicken liquid has simmered in, add 2 toma- toes, chopped fine, a chili pepper, also chopped fine. Toss all together lightly with a fork. Pile high in the center of platter and lay around it the pieces of fried chicken; garnish with stoned olives. CHICKEN CHEESE — Take 2 chickens, boiled tender, chopped not too fine, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Boil hard 3 or 4 eggs, and slice, with which line molds and pour in the chickens, adding the liquor in which they were boiled. When perfectly cold, slice for luncheon, or Sunday tea, or for sandwiches. ESCALLOPED CHICKEN — Cut cold boiled potatoes into irreg- ular pieces; remove all the meat from a cooked chicken and cut it into small pieces; make a sauce of 1 pint of milk and 1 beaten egg, seasoned with a little salt and pepper; put a layer of the meat in a pudding=dish, then a layer of potatoes, and sauce to cover them; another layer of meat and potatoes, and cover the whole with cracker crumbs, moistened with melted butter; bake ^ an hour. CHICKEN LOAF — Boil 2 chickens in as little water as possible to cook them without burning, until the meat will drop from the bones. Remove the meat from the bones and cut it fine without chopping. Put it back in the kettle, with plenty of butter, pepper and salt; heat it thoroughly. Slice a hard-boiled egg in the bottom of a dish, pour the chicken over it hot, place a weight upon it and set in a cool place. When cool, it will come out in a form. CHICKEN AND OYSTERS.— Take a nice, tender chicken, and split it down the back, and after cleaning it well, pound all the bones flat; wash and wipe it dry; season with pepper and salt, and fry in sweet lard until tender and brown on both sides ; put it on a platter and keep it warm. Make a gravy in the pan (after pouring out the fat) with ^ pint of water, a piece of butter, and flour for thickening, or use ^ pint of cream without the butter, if preferred. Have ready about 25 large oysters washed clean in salt and water, then dried in a towel, and add them to the gravy when it comes to boiling; plump them in the hot gravy, and pour on theMish of chicken. Serve hot. Time, about ^ hour. CHICKEN PATTIES.— Take 1 pint of cream, 1 tablespoon of corn^starch, 1 pint of cooked chicken, chopped coarsely. Let half the cream come to a boil in a stew-pan. Mix the remainder of the cream with the corn^starch, and add as soon as it boils; when this POULTKY 153 thickens, take off the fire, add the chopped chicken, and season to taste with salt, white pepper, and any other seasoning liked. Line patty=pans, small saucers, or sauce=plates, with rich pie-crust, and bake. When all is cold, place a heaping spoon of the chicken on each crust and serve. CHICKEN PIE — Cut the chicken in small pieces as for frying, and stew in just water sufficient to cover it, with a little salt, until the meat begins to separate from the bones; take it out, pick out the bones, aiid put the meat in a tin pan or large pudding=dish ; season the gravy with a little more salt, if needed, and a little white pep^Der, then thicken with a little corn=starch; add a lump of butter if the chicken is lean, and pour the gravy over the chicken. Make a rich baking-powder biscuit dough, spread it with the hands until it is large enough to cover the pie, place it on the meat, and cut a large cross in the middle of the crust; bake until the crust is a rich, golden brown (f to 1 hour), but do not have the oven hot enough to scorch it. Dangerous Gases in Meat Pies — -If the pie is cut and eaten hot, there will be no danger of its being poisonous — if set away to cool, be sure that there is an opening in the center of the crust doion to the meat, for the escape of the steam and gases while cooling. The rising of the crust while baking, sometimes closes the opening in it, and the slow cooling, and confined gases, cause it to be unwholesome. This should be especially guarded against with all meat pies. Meat pies are those made entirely of meat and crust, while mince pies are made of minced meat, apples, fruit and spices. MEAT PIE. — Take cold turkey, chicken, or any cold meat chop- ped fine; season with salt, pepper and gravy; lay pie-crust around the edge of a platter, and cover the same; bake a nice brown in the oven. Time, ^ to f hour. PRESSED CHICKEN — Boil 2 or 3 chickens and use what is wanted for dinner — then take what is left and boil until it will drop from the bones easily. Remove bones, and let the liquor boil down if there is too much; then add the meat, and season with pepper and a little cinnamon. Put in a square tin to press. It is easily made, and is very nice for Sunday lunch. CHICKEN AND RICE. — Take fricasseed chicken and remove the bones from the largest pieces, leaving the others in. Cover the bottom of a small pudding=dish with cold boiled rice, then put in a layer of the chicken, sprinkled with salt and pepper; then more rice, 154 POULTRY and so on until the dish is full. Have the last layer rice. Put in the gravy that is left, and cover the whole with the yolk of an egg well beaten. Set in the oven and bake until it is light brown. Time, f to 1 hour. CHICKEN SHORTCAKE — Out the meat from the largest pieces of cold stewed chicken and remove the bones (the wishbone and other small pieces may be left whole); heat, adding more gravy, if necessary, and when hot pour it on a shortcake, cut in pieces made as follows: Shortcake. — Mix 2 teaspoons of baking powder with 2 cups of flour. Rub into it a small -| cup of butter, and then add 1 cup of sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven in a thin sheet. CHICKEN SUPREME — First skin, then carefully cut the breast meat from 2 full grown chickens; divide each side of the breast meat into 2 long fillets — this will give 8 pieces, and is sufficient for a party of that number; flatten them by rolling with the rolling=pin until they are about an inch thick, then broil over a clear coal fire until they are thoroughly done and well browned; sprinkle with salt and white pepper, place on a hot platter, and spread with butter. Gar- nish with parsley, and serve with currant jelly, or any meat sauce preferred. These fillets can be stewed tender in a little water, and served with Bechamel sauce. The remainder of the fowls can be used for a stew, chicken pie, or chicken fricassee. CHICKEN TARTS. — Mince cold chicken very fine, and season with pepjper and salt to taste. Boil 1 cup of milk with | an onion and a blade of mace in it; when it is scalding hot, take out the onion and mace, and stir in a thickening made of 1 teaspoon of flour wet with cold milk. When it has boiled a few minutes, mix in 2 cups of chopped chicken. Have ready some rather large tarts made of puff paste, and put a spoonful of the mince in each. CHICKEN AND TOMATOES.— Prepare chicken as for a fricas- see, with a few slices of salt pork and a small onion, sliced; cover them with water and let them simmer slowly; when nearly cooked add 4 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and sliced, and a little salt and pepper, and cook ^ hour longer. Arrange the chicken on a platter with some toasted crackers, and pour the broth over the whole and serve. FRIED FOWL — Cold roast or boiled fowl can be dipped in bat- ter and fried. Make the batter of 4 heaping tablespoons of flour, 1 egg, ^ cup of water, and 2 tablespoons of salad oil. Add the water to the flour gradually, stirring it smooth; then beat in the yolk of the POULTRY 155 egg, with ^ teaspoon of salt, and just before you want your batter, stir in the beaten white; some flour may require a little more water. Dip each piece of chicken in the batter, and fry a light brown. TO MAKE OLD FOWLS TENDER— Take an old fowl and stew it from 2 to 4 hours according to our directions for stewing; then roast it in the oven, basting frequently. It will make an old fowl 5 or 6 years old, tender and equal to a chicken. Try it. FOWLS RECHAUFFE {Reheated).— Cut up a cold fowl, taking ofP the legs and wings, and dividing the fowl in pieces. Season bread crumbs with pepper and salt, and minced parsley; mix all together and lay over the pieces of fowl in a dripping-pan, and brown them in the oven. While that is taking place, make a gravy of butter and flour in ^ pint of water or broth; add a tablespoon of catsup and let it come to the boiling point; place the warmed fowl in a dish to serve, pour over it the hot gravy, and send to the table immediately. Good for breakfast. Time, about -J hour. MINCED FOWL. — Cut the meat from the bones, and put them on to boil with the bits of skin which are left, and an onion, in enough water to cover them-. When they have boiled until you have a cup of strong stock, strain and pour in a cup of hot milk, with pep- per and salt; then stir in 2 cups of minced fowl, and serve with chop- ped parsley sprinkled over it. STEAMED FOWL. — Place a fowl in a close steamer and cook 1 hour. Then remove the steamer, rub well with salt, and stuff as for baking; steam again until perfectly tender, then place it in a baking* pan, rub with flour and butter and place in the oven until brown, basting often with butter. Use some of the liquor in the steamer for gravy by adding it to the butter in the drip- ping-pan; thicken the gravy with flour, and add the chopped giblets and a little celery salt. Time, 2 to 3 hours. GUINEA FOWLS.— They are better when a year old and under, for the old fowls are apt to be tough and dry. Guinea fowls are cooked in various ways in the same manner as the com- mon domestic fowls. GUINEA FOWL. QIBLETS — These are the liver, heart and gizzard of fowls, with the feet, and long, bony part of the legs, and the tips of the wings. Carefully cut away the gall sack from the liver, peel the hard lining 156 POULTRY from the inside of the gizzard, and remove the veins, arteries and en- veloping membranes from the heart; throw them in cold water and wash well. Boil them f hour in slightly salted water sufficient to cover them. Take them up, cut in small pieces, or chop, thicken and season the gravy and return the giblets to reheat; then serve as giblets stewed. Or they may be baked in 2 crusts as "giblet pie." Giblets are also chopped, added to the gravies, and served with the fowls they were taken from. Scald and scrape the legs and feet for the soup^kettle — they are rich in gelatine. ROAST DUCK — Choose ducks that are plump, and have yellow- ish feet; dress like other poultry, taking care to get ofP all the down. Fill the body with seasoned dressing, sew up, and bake or roast, bast- ing often. Time, 20 to 40 minutes. They are often parboiled before being baked, as that lessens the strong taste. They can also be stuffed with apples which absorb the strong .taste and should not be eaten on that account. Celery should be served with roast duck, and any of the piquant meat sauces liked best. Wild ducks are cooked in the same way as the domestic variety, but if the bones are solid and show indications of age, they are better stewed, or boiled and made into side dishes. GEESE. — Geese are called green until they are 4 or 5 months old. They are dressed^ singed, trussed, and roasted in the same way as chicken, carefully basting them while baking or roasting. Cook until they are thoroughly browned on both sides, and the English sauce for them is made of" gooseberries, as their name indicates. The remains of baked green goose is made into entrees, side dishes, hashes, etc., in the same way that other cold poultry is re-warmed. Time, 1 to 1^ hours according to size. ROAST GOOSE. — It is better to keep the goose a few days after coming from the market, but do not let it come to the slightest taint. Pluck, singe, draw, and wash thoroughly; then fill the cavity with a dressing made with sage and onions, if liked, or a plain bread and butter filling may be used. Sew up, and bake or roast in a moderate oven until a golden brown on both sides. Baste often; use butter and flour when nearly done. The goose is sometimes parboiled be- fore baking. The oil which runs out will be too strong for gravy. Serve apple sauce with the goose. Time, if small, 1\ hours; if large, If hours. Goose Stuffing {Soye7'^s). — Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 on- ions, a little sage and thyme; stew until soft, then pulp through a sieve; add a sufficient amount of mashed potato to fill the bird. The stuffing should be well seasoned with salt and pepper. POULTRY 157 BOILED TURKEY. — Draw and clean the turkey, then bone and nearly fill the inside with veal force-meat; thrust a trimmed boiled tongue down the middle of the force-meat, and sew up the turkey securely; truss and put it as near as possible in the original shape. Sew it up in a buttered cloth, and boil very gently to prevent it from bursting. Time, 3 to 4 hours, according to the size. To carve, cut across the breast, so as to give each person a slice composed of equal parts of tongue, turkey and force-meat. Turkeys dressed in this fashion, covered with Bechamel sauce, and garnished with aspic jelly, form an elegant dish for ball suppers. BONED TURKEY, BOILED.— Chop finely about a pound of veal, and ^ pound of salt pork; roll 3 crackers, add 2 eggs well beaten, with a little chopped parsley; salt and pepper to taste; mix, and fill the turkey, not crowding it. Sew it up and roll in a cloth ; boil from 3 to 4 hours, then press by putting it on a platter, turn another platter over it, and place a weight on the upper platter, until cold. Take a quart of the broth in which the turkey was boiled, add an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water, and the juice of a lemon; place it in a dish about an inch deep; when solid, cut ^ of it in inch squares to lay over the top of the turkey ; beat the other half with a fork and place around the turkey. Sau- sage meat of fresh pork, highly seasoned, may be used for filling, in- stead of the veal and salt pork. ROAST TURKEY.— After drawing the turkey, stuff it with bread, oysters, or any other stufiing desired; then sew it up, truss, and rub with butter, and sprinkle on pepper, salt and flour. Put it in to roast, having the oven hot at first; then reduce the heat and put 2 cups of water in the dripping-pan. Baste frequently, and each time dredge on salt and flour. It should be cooked thoroughly, roast- ing about 20 minutes to the pound, and 20 minutes extra. Cran- berry sauce and currant jelly are the best things to serve with roast turkey. Qiblet Gravy can be made for turkey by boiling the giblets till very tender (begin to boil them early); then chop fine, and add salt, pepper, and sufficient flour to thicken. When the turkey is removed from the pan, pour on the giblets sufiicient gravy from the pan, and boil it. Make an ordinary gravy with the balance left in ihe pan, as some do not like giblet gravy. TURKEY CHEESE. — This is an excellent way to cook an old turkey too tough for roasting. Have it dressed in the usual way, and let it hang in the larder for a few days if the weather is cold. Singe, 158 GAME wash, and cut it in small pieces as for a fricassee of chicken; put it in the dinner^pot with just cold water enough to cover it, put on the fire, and let it come to boiling; then add a tablespoon of salt and set the kettle on the back of the range, where it will gently simmer until the meat will separate from the bones. At this stage, remove the kettle from the fire, take out the turkey into a pan or deep earthen dish, remove all the bones, cut the larger pieces of meat into smaller portions, season with more salt, if needed, add pepper and herbs, if liked; then pour the liquor from the kettle over it, and let it get cold before using it. TURKEY RAGOUT.— Cut all the meat left from roast turkey, in as large pieces as it will allow. Break up the bones, put them in a stew=pan, with cold water to cover them, boil an hour, strain out the bones; season the liquid with pepper, salt, a little chopped celery or celery salt; stir in a thickening made of a spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, ^ a cup of milk, and butter the size of an egg. Stir over the fire constantly until thick as cream put in the cold turkey, simmer five minutes and serve. A GOOD BREAKFAST DISH — A fine breakfast dish can be made by frying the livers of chickens or turkeys with a few thin slices of bacon. Cut the liver and bacon very thin ; season with pep- per and salt. GAME. Game is young if the bones of the legs and wings break easily, and if the skin is tender. All water birds should be eaten as fresh as possible, as their flesh is oily, and soon becomes rank. If there is a large quantity of game on hand at one time, it will be well to cook the young game first, and the old, 1 or 2 days later, as old birds will keep longer than young- ones. Old birds also need longer cooking. Young game cooks rather more quickly than poultry, and the flavor is best retained by cooking it plainly. The rule is, that while dark meated game may be rare, white meated game should be well done. Game, like all meat, should not be washed, unless it is really needed, and should never be left in the water, because, as we have elsewhere explained, the water will draw out the juices. Game drawn with care only needs wiping. It is best o dry-pick birds, using care, and taking off all the feathers whiclr can be readily GAME 159 removed; then plunge into boiling water, skin, draw, and finally wipe carefully. Wild ducks and geese, however, are so oily that they should be washed with warm water and soap, as anything less effectual will not cleanse them properly. The objectionable flavor of wild ducks comes from the oil in the skin; if it is very strong, they can be skinned; then spread with butter, dredge thickly with flour, and put in a very quick oven to roast. The directions for " drawing" and " trussing" given for poultry, will apply equally well for wild fowls. Overcoming the Wild Flavor. — It is sometimes desired to overcome the wild flavor in the large birds, as it is disliked by some people. There are various ways to do this: (1) Take a lemon, take off the peel, and lay it inside; renew it every 10 or 12 hours, and continue for 1 or 2 days. From most game this will absorb the unpleasant flavors. (Probably the best plan.) (2) Ducks, geese, prairie chick- ens, pheasants, etc., may lie for 10 or 12 hours in salt and water. (3) They may be put in soda and water for 2 or 3 hours. (4) Par- boil in water containing 1 or 2 onions. Restoring Tainted Game. — If game becomes slightly tainted, it should at once be picked clean and put into milk for a full day (24 hours) keeping it entirely covered; this will sweeten it, and it should be cooked at once. Most game is kept as long as it can be without becoming tainted, as it is thought the flavor is thereby developed. Game is less fat than butcher's meat, and is generally considered very nourishing; it is easy of digestion and is valued in the sick- room. This does not apply to wild fowl, however, which have close, firm and rather oily flesh, and are, therefore, unsuited to weak stom- achs. Tile garnishes for the larger game, like wild ducks, etc., are pars- ley, slices of orange or lemon, cranberry or apple sauce; while for small game, the most common are parsley, toast, currant jelly, and slices of lemon. Currant, grape, or any acid jelly, is suitable to serve with game. Cranes, Plovers, Snipes, Herons, Prairie Chickens, Quails, Pigeons, Wood= cocks, and all small game, are cooked in much the same way as spring or broiler chicken — that is, if the game is young, which will be known by the tenderness of the bones, and the freshness of the feet. They can be broiled, fricasseed, stewed, etc., in the same manner as poul- try. Old game should be parboiled before roasting, as that is the bet- ter way of cooking old game or poultry. 160 GAME WILD DUOK. BLACKBIRD PIE.— Take 1 cloz. blackbirds, reedbirds or oth- er small game; skin and draw them, cutting off the heads and feet. Put a bit of bread, buttered, peppered, and salted, into the body of each bird; place them in a pudding^dish with thin slices of cold, boil- ed, fat salt pork; add a little cold water, cover them with rich pie crust I inch thick, and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven. Time, 30 to 40 minutes. WILD DUCK. — Pick the ducks carefully, and thoroughly singe off the down, then rub them with a coarse cloth. Split them open down the back, wash clean, and dry them with a cloth; pound flat with the potato^masher, or rolling=pin, and broil ; turn often on the fire, which must be clear and bright. Have a little wisp, made of a bit of linen, tied on a clean stick, and rub them with melted butter every time you turn them. Serve hot. Canvas-hack ducks should be served on hot plates, and eaten as soon as possible after be- ing taken from the fire. Serve with celery mayonnaise. PARTRIDGES. — Boned.— Bone the birds, and lard with thin slices of salt pork; stuff with oysters, roll up and tie; place in a drip- ping-pan with a little hot water and butter; bake in a moderately hot oven until well browned, basting often. Serve with mushroom sauce and mashed potatoes and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Time, about ^ hour. Roast Partridges, — Pick, draw, and wipe clean; then fill with tur- key dressing; truss them in shape and put in the dripping-pan with a little water; lay on the birds thin slices of fat salt pork. Roast about an hour, basting often; when done thicken the water in the pan, add more seasoning if needed, place the i^artridges on a hot plat- ter, and pour the gravy around them, or send it to the table in the gravy boat, with a garnish of pars- ley around the birds on the platter. PIGEONS — Roast.— These to be good should be cooked soon af- ter being killed, and should be dressed and drawn immediately. PAETBIDGE. GAME 161 Wash them thoroughly and wipe them dry; spread a lump of butter on a bit of bread and place it in the cavity of each bird; truss them into shape, cover the bottom of the baking=pan with very thin slices of salt pork, place the pigeons in the pan with the backs down, and put a little water in the pan; roast in a hot oven until they are done, and of a nice brown color; they should be basted often. Time, about 20 to 30 minutes. Garnish the pigeons with the bits of pork, slices of lemon and parsley. Make a gravy in the pan, and send it to the table in a gravy boat, with the jpigeons. The juice of a lemon dripped over the birds after they are on the platter adds to their deli- cacy. Pigeon Pie. — Line a pie dish with thin slices of fat bacon, place on this the pigeons cut in quarters, three pigeons to a pie. Fill the interstices with veal taken from the loin or leg (of course uncooked); season with pepper and salt, and proceed as to the crust in the same way as for other meat pies. Time, about 1^ hours. Squabs (Young Pigeons). — Dress in the same manner as for "broil- er'' chicken; split down the back, pound flat with the rolling-pin, butter the broiling=iron, and cook over clear coals until a delicate brown, turning often. Sprinkle with a little salt and pepjper when done, and spread with butter, and keep hot on the top shelf of the oven until ready to set on the table. Time, 4 to 6 minutes. PLOVER — Fricassee. — Dress, wash clean, and iDut to stew in just water to cover them; boil slowly for an hour, then add a little salt, and boil the water out rapidly, to brown the birds in the kettle; watch that they do not burn. Take out, put bits of butter on the birds and keep hot. Make a brown gravy in the kettle, pour over the birds, and send to the table. Fried Plover — Skin the birds, re- serving only the breast and legs — the remainder can go into the soup=kettle — wash and wipe them dry; roll in flour or bread crumbs, put in a hot ?\ lA — 1« . well buttered frying=pan and fry until \^^~~j/ m/r nicely browned on both sides; place on _ ^^— ^^ -^^'^^1= _ a hot platter, spread with butter, and -^—^^^ sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, plovbb. and keep the platter hot while making a gravy. Add more butter for the gravy, to that in the pan, and -J pint of -hot water. Mix a little cold water with a tablespoon of corn- starch, stir rapidly until it thickens, season with salt and pepper, and 11 162 GAME pour it over the birds. Serve with wild grape jelly, or some nice meat sauce. PRAIRIE CHICKEN. — Cut out the breasts, cut each one in two, rub with butter, broil, season with salt and pepper, and serve on but- tered toast; g-arnish with currant jelly. If for breakfast, serve on fried mush. The balance, except the breast, is apt to be tough, and is best if first parboiled; then rub with butter and broil as above. They are often split oi^en at the back, rubbed with butter and broiled, but we think the above the best way. QUAIL Broiled.-^ rick, draw, and split down the back, then wash and wipe dry; pound flat with the roll- i ng=pin, or a flat-iron covered with a cloth; broil slowly, and baste often with butter. Serve on toasted slices of bread, richly buttered. Time, 4 to 6 minutes. QUAIL. QUAIL PIE — Take 8 or 10 quails, cut each in two, and lay in salt water for 2 hours; then put them in a sauce=pan with 1 large onion, 2 chili peppers, some parsley, cut fine, salt and black pepper; cover with water, and stew until tender; then add ^ lb, butter, 2 tablespoons flour, and simmer for a few minutes; season with a little lemon juice and mushroom catsup. Place in a pan, cover with puff paste, and bake. Time, about 1 hour. SMALL BIRDS. — A method of treating small birds which is liked by many, is to halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, scoop out a depression large enough to receive half a bird, or if very small, a whole one. Put in the dressed bird, season with pepper, salt and butter, put on the other half of the potato, tie it, and bake till soft. Serve in the potatoes; garnish with green leaf. Reedbirds, etc., are nice this way. Small birds can also be fried in hot fat, or roasted, broiled or stewed. SNIPE. — Treat the same as Woodcocks. WOODCOCK — Pick the birds, draw the trail, and wipe clean. Tie the legs, remove the skin from the head, turn the head under the wing and tie, also tying a thin slice of bacon on the breast. Fry in hot lard 2 or 3 minutes. Season, and serve on toast, with currant jelly. If preferred, it can be prepared the same way and roasted in the oven. Time, about ^ hour. GAME 163 Salmis of Woodcock. — This is made of cold roast woodcock. Cut the birds into small neat pieces to serve, and keep the remainder — all the bones and trimmings — for the soup=kettle. Simmer until the meat comes off the bones, with herbs, a little salt and pepper. Add also any gravy left from the day before. Strain through a colander, and return to the kettle. Thicken with a little corn=starch and put in the pieces of woodcock to get hot in the soup. There should be about enough of the soup for a plenty of good gravy. Croutons, or strips of toasted bread can be laid around the edge of the platter, with sprigs of parsley or chives. GROUSE — Cook same as "Prairie ' Chicken." Or the breast and legs can be larded; then rub with butter, sprinkle on pepper and salt, dredge with flour, and roast in the oven. A bread sauce is best served with it. RABBITS — Jack^rabbit is the term usually applied to the wild rabbit of the United States. They are plentiful in some parts of the country, and in the fall, when the boys bring them in from gunning excursions, they are fat and most delicious, cooked in various ways, either roasted, fried or boiled, and they make a fine soup or pot'pie. If the bones are strong and the skin tough, they are old, and are better boiled whole and served with white or cream sauce. If young, the skin is tender and the ears tear easily, in which case they are nice cut in pieces, pounded flat and broiled over a clear fire in the same way as chickens are broiled. They can be roasted whole, if young, after being filled with a bread and butter dressing, with a large slice of fat salt pork spread over the rabbit, and it should be frequently basted. If large, it should be in the hot oven from 1^ to 2 hours, and well browned, and served with a brown gravy made in the dripping-pan after the meat is put on the platter. OPOSSUM.— Scald like a hog, clean, and expose to a frosty air about 2 days. Then parboil, and bake like pigs' meat, in a moderate oven, basting often. Peel and split sweet potatoes and place them in the pan to bake with the meat. 164 GAME SQUIRRELS. — The old ones may be known by their greater size, and by the greater strength of the bones. After dressing and clean- ing, they are cut in quarters; those that are old are better stewed. Put them over the fire in a kettle, with w^ater enough to cover them; stew gently until the meat starts from the bones, then season with salt, pepper, and herbs, if liked; add a little corn^starch for thicken- ing, with a lump of butter. The young squirrels can be cut in quar- ters, and either broiled or fried, as you would chickens. Squirrel Pie. — Clean, and soak ^ hour in salt water; take out and stew with a little salt pork until half done. Line the sides of the dish with pastry, lay in the squirrel, put in the gravy, put on an upper crust, cut a cross in it to let out the steam and gases, and bake. Time, about ^ hour. BUFFALO AND BEAR.— Bear and buffalo meat is either baked, boiled, fried or broiled, in the same ways as beef. RACCOONS AND WOODCHUCKS.— Raccoons and woodchucks, are stewed or baked, and served after the manner of pigs' meat, and are considered a delicacy by hunters. Old animals can be parboiled before cooking — with young ones it is not necessary. VENISON. — Venison is easily digested. As the hairs often cling to the meat, it should be cleaned carefully before cooking. The best cuts for steaks or roasting come from the loin or saddle. The rules given for cooking beef or mutton apply equally to venison. Stew the tougher parts. Currant jelly is considered the best thing to serve with venison, or garnish with slices of lemon. Venison Steaks. — Cut venison steaks in suitable pieces for serving; heat ^ of a lb. of butter in your frying-pan; season the steaks with salt and pepper, then dip them in wheat flour or rolled cracker crumbs, and fry them a nice brown on both sides. When done, set them in the oven with a tin over, to keep them warm, wdiile you x^re- pare gravy, as follows: Dredge a large tablespoon of flour into the butter in the pan, and stir until it is brown, without burning; put in a teacup of boiling water, with a teaspoon of currant jelly dissolved into it. Stir briskly for a few minutes, then strain the gravy over the meat and serve at once. CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS. fT is very desirable for every housekeeper tp know the location . and names of the different parts of meat, and many families occasionally cut up and cure animals for their own use, and so in this chapter we will give such information on these subjects as will meet the requirements of our readers. Before corning meat hang it 1 or 2 days after it is killed. BEEF.. 1. Rump. — Used for corned beef, stews and steaks. 2. Aitchbone. — Used for stews and pot-roasts. 3.' Round or Buttock. — Used for stews, boiling, pot=roasts, or steaks. The lower part is good to work up in Hamburg steaks and curry of beef. 4. Hock. — Best for soup or stews. 5. Shin or Leg. — Used for soup, stewing or hash. 6. Shin. — Used for soup or cheap stews. 7. Clod. — Used for soup, stock, stews, sausages, etc. 8. Neck or Sticking Piece. — Used same as clod. Shoulder Clod. — Used for stews, pot=roasts, hashes. Brisket. — Used for soups, stews, corned and spiced Used for stews or for corned beef or — Suitable for corned beef, boiling, 9. etc. 10. beef. 11. Thin Flank.— dried beef. 12. Thick Flank. stews, or pressed beef. 13. Si7~loin. — Used for sirloin or porter house steaks or choice roasts. The tip is an extra fine roast, and should have 3 but is sometimes cut up with 2 ribs. 14. Fore Rib. — The 5 ribs nearest the sirloin are the best; it makes fine roasting pieces, or steaks; the bones are often taken out and the meat rolled, when the bones can be used for soup. is. Middle Ribs. — Usually roasted. 16. Chuck Ribs. — Used for stews and steaks and roasts of second quality. 17. Cheek. — Used for soups or stews. Other parts used are: (18) The Brains which, when well soaked, can be stewed, fried, scalloped or made into cro- quettes. (19) Ox'tail, used for soups and stews. (20) Cow-heels, 165 166 CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS which make as good jelly as calves' feet, and what remains of them is good eating; they also make good soup. (21) The Heart, which can be stuffed, braised or roasted, but although economical it is rather indigestible. (22) The Liver. — It can be boiled or fried and is very nutritious and cheap. The food known as "faggots " is made of the liver and lights of sheep and .bullocks mixed with some fat. (23) The Kidneys, used for stewing, pies or puddings. They are cheaper than the kidneys of young animals, but difficult of diges- tion. They need light cooking, as they are apt to dry up when exposed to a high temperature. (24) The Tongue is boiled and braised, either fresh or salted. It can be bought either way. (25) Tripe. — This is easily digested, but is not very nutritious. (26) Sweetbreads — This in full grown animals consists of the pancreas, and is not equal to the thymus gland of the calf. (27) Suet. — That which surrounds the kidneys is the firmest and best. (28) The Spleen or Milt of bullock, sheep*and pig is sold for food. It is gen- erally stuffed and roasted, or stewed or boiled for stock. (29) The Fillet lies under the rump and loin and weighs 6 or 8 lbs. The Lights are the lungs. The Pluck is the lights, liver and heart. It is well to remember that any part of an animal which is much exercised is tougher than parts which are exercised little or none. VEAL. 1. Head. — Used for soup or jelly. Calves' brains are served as an entree. 2. Neck. — Used for stews or soup. 3. Knuckle. — Best stewed or boiled; occasion- ally roasted. 4. JFeet. — Used for jelly making; occasionally stewed or fried. 5. Loin. — Prime roasting joint or for cutlets. 6. Chump end of Loin. — Used for roasting or cutlets. 7. Fillet. — The most economical roasting j oint, and furnishes the best cutlets. 8. Knuckle. — This is cheap and is best used for stewing, boiling or for stock. 9. Flank. — Used for stews. 10. Breast. — Best stewed; sometimes roasted. dons served as an entree. 11 and 12. Shoulder or Bladebone. times for cutlets. 13. Rib. — Used for small roasting joint or for chops. 14. Stoeetbreads. — These are found above Fig. 14 and consist of the thymus gland found on both sides of the windpipe. The stomach sweetbreads are located further along near the stomach. Other parts used are: (15) The Heart, which is more digestible than bullock's heart and is liked by many. (16) Liver. — This is very lean, and is usually cooked with, some of the inside fat or with This part furnishes veal ten- -Used sometimes for roasting and some- CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS 167 bacon. (17) Kidney. — This is more delicate than beef kidney, and is preferred to it. (18) Suet. — Veal suet is more delicate, than beef suet, and may advantageously be substituted for that in puddings and for all purposes. POKK. 1. Feet. — Used for pickle or jelly; occasionally boiled, or boned and stuff- ed. 2. Ham or Leg. — Used for roasting, boiling or frying; the most economical piece to buy. 3. Bacon. — Generally cured. 4. Hock. — Best stewed or boiled. 5. Shoulder. — Smoke, or cut steaks from this. 6. Lower Neck. — Used for sausages or lard. 7. Head. — Can be boiled or made into brawn; the cheek can be made into smoked jowls, and the snout boiled. 8. Shoulder Top.— Used for spare-ribs, steak or sausage. 9. Fore Loin. — Usually roasted. 10. Loin. — The best roasting joint; chops are also cut from it. Other parts are: (11) Pig^s Fry. — This con- sists of the liver, sweetbreads and some of the inside fat. (12) The Harslet, consisting of the liver, lights and heart. (13) The Chine; this is the 2 loins unseparated from the backbone. (14) Lard; this has a lower melting point than beef or mutton fat, and the lower the heat at which it is melted the smoother it is. TO CUT UP PORK.— Have the hog laid on his back on a clean bench; cut off the head close to the base. If large there will come off a considerable collar be- tween the head and shoulders, which, pickled or dried, is useful for cooking with vegetables. Separate the jowl from the face at the nat- ural joint; open the skull lengthwise and take out the brains — es- teemed a luxury. Then, with a sharp knife, remove the backbone the whole length; then the long strip of fat underlying it, leaving about 1 inch of fat covering the spinal column. Take out the leaf lard, and the tenderloin — a fishy shaped piece of flesh. Now cut out the middle or sides, leaving the shoulders square==shaped and the hams pointed or rounded as desired. The spare=ribs are usually wholly removed from the sides, with but little meat adhering. It is the sides of young hogs, cured as hams, that bear the name of break- fast bacon. The sausage meat comes chiefly in strips from the back- bone, part of which may also be used as steak. The lean trimmings 168 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS from about the joints are used for sausage. The chines are smoked with the jowls and used in late winter and spring. The feet should be heated over the fire until the hoofs can be easily removed; then scrape clean, and, after being a few minutes in hot water, scrape and wash carefully, and they will be ready to cook. The fat from the intestines is all removed; use that which sticks to the larger intes- tines for soap grease. Sometimes the smaller intestines are used for sausage cases. Try up all flabby pieces for lard. The sweetbreads, liver, kidneys and heart are used for boiling. When meat is to be pickled it should be dusted lightly with saltpetre, sprinkled with salt, and allowed to drain 24 hours; then plunge it into pickle, and keep it under weight. It is good policy to pickle a portion of the sides. Pork is cured for the market in different ways; the fat sides are taken from the ribs, cut in pieces, packed in barrels with layers of salt, and then covered with strong brine, in which it is kept until retailed from the barrels. Sometimes the sides are well cured in the brine, then hung, dried, and afterwards packed in boxes with dry salt. At the South this is called bacon, and smoked bacon if it has been hung in a smoke=house. Pig meat is treated in the latter way, and makes a deli- cate meat called breakfast bacon. The hams, shoulders and cheeks of pork are pickled in brine for a certain length of time, then are taken from the pickle, and either packed dry in salt, or smoked and packed in a :nanner to best preserve them. One of the best ways of keeping hams in the country, is to dry the hams well in a smoke»house, then rub them well with fine salt and sugar, roll up well in newspapers, and pack in barrels, filling as you go with clean wood ashes. MUTTON AND LAMB. 1. Loin, chump end. — Used for roasting or chops; chump chops are cut nearest the tail where there is the most bone. 2. Loin. — The best roasting joint. 3. Back. — Used for roasting, boiling, or for mut- ton cutlets. 4. Shoulder. — Used for roasting or ^r stufiing; is fatter and not so economical as the leg, but is pre- ferred by many. 5. Neck. — Used for stews. 6. Head. — This makes excellent broth but is not miuch used by the wel]«tosdo classes. ' 7. Shank. — Suitable for stews or soups. 8. J^ee^.— Used for jelly. 9. Hock. — Suitable for stews or soup. 10. Leg. — Used for roasts or chops; mutton steaks are cut from the leg; usu- ally considered the most economical piece to buy. 11. Breast. — Suitable for stewing or boiling; often economical but too fat for some. Other parts are : (12) The Chine, which consists of the 2 loins unseparated from the backbone. (13) The Saddle, which consists of 2 loins and 2 legs undivided. (14) The Heart, which is best roasted. (15) The Liner, which can be fried or made into soup. (16) The Kidney, which can be broiled or stewed (often sold with the loin). (17) Mutton Suet. — This is not so good as beef suet for puddings, etc. CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS 169 LAMB. — When very large it is cut into the same joints as mut- ton; when small it is simply cut into quarters. LamWs Sioeetbreads are considered a delicacy. LamVs Fry consists of the liver, the sweetbreads, and some of the inside fat or leaf of the heart. LamWs Kidney, Head and Feet are also eaten. Lamb's kidneys cooked a little while are tender, but long cooking toughens them. Many people prefer the fore quarters, but the leg is the most eco- nomical part to buy. VENISON. 1. Loin or Haunch. — Used for steaks, roasts and stews; also for making smoked venison; the ribs can be used for soup. 2. Fore Loin. — Good for roasts or steaks. 3. Shoulder. — Usually roasted, or boned, stufifed, and then roasted or baked. 4. Neck or Scrag. — Used for soup or stews. 5. Breast. — Used for stews or baking. The best and sweetest venison comes from a female deer about 4 years old; doe venison (in season from October to December) is not equal to buck venison — (in season from June to October 1st). The haunch is the prime joint, though the shoulders are much esteemed. Venison requires more care in the killing, preserving and dressing than any other meat. As soon as it is cut up it should betaken into a cool, dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an airy place. If it is to be kept some time, dust dry ginger and pepper over it to keep off flies; keep it as long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. If it should in- advertently become musty, first wash it with lukewarm vinegar and water, and afterwards with lukewarm milk and water, and then dry it perfectly with a cloth, and flour it. PICKLE FOR MEAT. — Make 8 gallons of brine strong enough to float an egg, add 2 lbs. of brown sugar, and 1 quart of molasses, and 4 oz. saltpetre; boil and skim clean, and pour cold on the meat. Meat intended for smoking should remain in pickle about 4 weeks. This pickle can be boiled over, and with a fresh cup of sugar and salt, used all summer. Some persons use as much soda as saltpetre; it will correct acidity, but we think impairs the meat. Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not he- xing generally required to be kept for a great length of time, less salt and more of other matters better adapted to retain the mellowness in meat may be used than could be adopted by those who cure large quantities for shipment. Sugar is well known to possess the preserving principle to a large degree without the pungency iand stringency of salt. It acts without contracting the fibers of the meat, and therefore does not impair its mellowness, but when used in sufficiently large quan- tities for preserving effect it imparts a flavor not agreeable to many people. It may be used with salt, however, to great advantage in about the proportion of 1 part by weight of sugar to 4 parts of the mixture, and now that sugar is so much cheaper than formerly it may be more commonly used. MEAT PICKLE. — Take of moist sugar, 2 lbs., common salt, 4 lbs., saltpetre, ^ lb., fresh ground allspice, 2 oz.; water 6 to 8 quarts. 170 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS Dissolve. Used to pickle meat, to which it imparts a fine red color, and a superior flavor. TO CURE MEAT — To 1 gallon of water add 1| lbs. salt, ^ lb. of sugar, ^ oz. saltpetre, ^ oz. potash. Make any quantity desired, pre- serving these proportions. Boil these together until all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and is skimmed off; then throw it into a tub to cool, and when cold pour it over the beef and pork to remain the usual time, say 4 or 5 weeks. The meat must be well covered with pickle and should not be put down for at least 2 days after kill- ing, during which time it should be slightly sprinkled with salt- petre, which removes all surface blood, etc., leaving the meat fresh and clean. If this recipe is tried it will never be abandoned — nothing surpasses it. CURING BEEF AND HAM.— For beef use 6 lbs. salt, 1 oz. salt- petre, 4 oz. New Orleans sugar, -J gallon sorghum molasses, 3^ gal. water; boil and skim the mixture; when cold, pour it over the meat, and if the latter is bloody pour off the brine, scald it, and when cold pour over the meat again. If the meat is a ham or shoulder to be smoked, it should lie in the brine 20 to 30 days, and then be hung up to smoke. Beef to be dried should be treated in the same way, but corned beef lies in the brine until it is used up. HAMS, TO CURE — To each green" ham of 18 lbs. use 1 dessert- spoon of saltpeter, | lb. of brown sugar applied to the fleshy side of the ham and about the hock; cover the fleshy side with fine salt ^ inch thick, and pack away in tubs; let remain from 3 to 6 weeks, ac- cording to size. Before smoking, rub off any salt that may remain on the ham, and cover well with ground pepper, particularly about the bone and hock, hang up and drain for 2 days; smoke with green wood for 8 weeks, or until the rind assumes a light chestnut color. The pepper is an effectual preventive of the fly. (An extra recipe.) A Southern Rule for Curing Meat.— For 250 lbs. of beef or hams and shoulders, use 16 lbs. salt, 8 gal. water, 4 oz. saltpetre, 2 quarts mo- lasses, 1 tablespoon soda; mix and dissolve. For salting beef, first cut it into suitable pieces and pack in a clean barrel as closely as can be pressed in by the hand ; put it in even layers. When all the meat is packed place on top 4 sticks crossed, and lay on them a clean stone heavy enough to keep the meat under the brine. Pack hams the same way, and after 30 days remove from the brine and smoke. WESTPHALIAN HAMS.— The famous Westphalian hams are cured thus: First rub with dry salt, and then drain 24 hours. Take CUTTING UP AND CUEING MEATS 171 4 quarts salt, 3 lbs. brown sugar, 1 lb. saltpetre, 4 oz. salprunella, 4 oz. juniper berries; bruise, mix well, boil in 6 quarts of water, cool and skim. Take the hams from the salt, wipe dry, pour over the pickle, and rub well into the meat. Then smoke a little every day for 3 months until completely dry, when they will keep sound and improve in flavor for years. Hams shrink in smoking about 10% in weight, while pickled or salted pork gains about 10%. SUGAR CURING HAMS {English i?ec^pe).— As soon as the meat comes from the butcher's hand rub it thoroughly with salt; repeat this 4 days, keeping the meat where it can drain. The fourth day rub it with saltpetre and a handful of salt, allowing 1 lb. of salt- petre to 70 lbs. of meat. Now mix 1 lb. of brown sugar, and 1 lb. of molasses; rub it over the ham every day for a fortnight, and then smoke with hickory chips or cobs. Hams should be hung highest in meat houses, because there they are less liable to the attacks of insects. TO KEEP CURED HAM — A simple way is by packing closely in a stone jar, (after taking off the rind and cutting in slices) and then exclude the air by pouring over enough melted lard to cover them; they will keep this way several months. When some is taken out melt the lard and pour on again, to protect the balance. PICKLE FOR CORNED BEEF.-(l) Use 1 gal. water, 1| lbs. salt, ^ lb. brown sugar, ^ oz. saltpetre, -g oz. potash; use same propor- tions for any quantity; boil all together in an iron kettle, skim and strain; put into the pickle tub, and when cold put in the meat, hav- ing the pickle cover it, and weighting it down with clean stones. (2) For 100 lbs. of beef use 8 lbs. fine salt, 4 lbs. brown sugar, 4 oz. sal- eratus, 2 oz. saltpetre, and mix well; put a layer of this in the bottom of the barrel and between each layer of meat, removing the large bones. Put a weight on the top layer to hold it down, and the juices of the meat furnish all the brine necessary. Meat thus pickled is ready for drying in six weeks, and does not toughen in the summer. TO CORN BEEF (Pococ/c Picfcfe).— Take 4 gallons fresh water, 1| lbs. coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 7 lbs. common salt; put all in a boiler, take off the scum as it rises, boil well, and then let it get cold. Have sufficient to cover the meat, lay a cloth over it, and weight down the meat. The same pickle may be used again by re=boiling, and adding a small quantity of each ingredient fresh. SPICED CORN BEEF.— Prepare a mixture of 4 cups molasses, 4 cups of salt, 4 tablespoons of saltpetre, 2 tablespoons cloves, 2 172 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS tablespoons ground pepper; each day for 10 days rub this into the beef, turning the meat, and rubbing well in. This is for 20 lbs. of meat. At the end of the 10 days it can be used. HAMBURGH BEEF — Take a piece of meat from some fleshy part; scatter common salt under and over it, and let lie 24 hours to void the blood; then put into a pickle made with 1 gal. water that has been boiled, 1 lb. common salt, 1| lbs. coarse sugar, 2 oz. salt- petre, ^ pint vinegar; simmer until all are melted; place the meat in a deep narrow pan and pour over the liquor, covering it completely; it will be ready for smoking in 3 weeks; dry well with a cloth, and rub pea meal all over it, until it has a good coat on it. If well smoked it will come out a bright yellow, and will keep any length of time. HOME MADE DRIED BEEF.— Select a nice round of beef- better from a young animal — divide it into 2 pieces, following the natural line of division very carefully, so as not to make any cuts or gashes for the fly to burrow in. Then for 50 lbs. of meat make a mixture of 2 lbs. fine salt, 1 oz. of poM^dered saltpetre. If lbs. brown sugar. Rub this mixture well into the meat every morning until used up, and at the end of 2 weeks hang up in a smoke house to smoke slightly or just, enough to be tasted. Excess of smoke is not generally relished. It may be left hanging in any dry place away from flies. If it molds a little on the outside that will not hurt. BEEF, SCOTCH METHOD OF DRYING — Take 2 lbs. salt, 1 oz. finely ground cloves, 2 oz. of ground pepper, or in these propor- tions for any desired quantity. After cutting the meat into suitable pieces, rub this mixture well into it every day for 5 or 6 days; then hang the meat up to dry. This is said to produce superior dried beef. TONGUES, TO CURE.— (1) Take 9 lbs. salt, 8 oz. sugar, and 9 oz. powdered saltpetre. Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep them in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day. Drain them from the pickle, cover them with brown paper, and have them smoked for about 3 weeks, The above quantit)^ of brine is suflicient for 12 tongues of 5 lbs. each. (2) Take ^ oz. saltpetre, ^ oz. salprunella, 1 lb. salt, f lb. very coarse sugar, 4 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and 3 pints of water. Let it boil for f hour, skim off the scum, and pour the liquid into a pickling dish; when it is quite cold put the tongue in, and turn it every day for 3 weeks, if you wish to cook it green, but if not leave it CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 178 in the pickle for a month. This pickle will keep good for months if re-boiled and skimmed. Every tongue put in should first be well rubbed with salt, left to drain for 3 days, and then wiped dry. PICKLE FOR TONGUES AND BEEF.— Use 1 gal. water, 2 lbs." common salt, 4 oz. saltpetre, | lb. brown sugar; boil all well to- gether. A tongue should be pickled 14 days before it is considered well cured. TO PICKLE PIGS' FEET.— Put them in strong brine, and leave for 1 week; then take out and boil in water to remove the brine, then pour vinegar over them, and soak in a pickle containing bay leaves, allspice and mace. TO CLEAN BEEF TRIPE.— Rinse carefully in cold water (after emptying the contents, none of which should be allowed to touch the outside). Then sprinkle on lime, put it in a tub, pour on hot water and leave 2 hours; then try scraping it with a knife — if the dark does not come off readily, spread on more lime and put in the tub another hour or two; then scrape, and rinse clean with cold water. Put it in salt water, enough to cover it, and leave 3 days; change the water each day. Take it out, cut in strips, and whiten by laying it in buttermilk for a few hours; then rinse clean, and boil for a few hours — or till it is tender enough to mash with the fingers. Then it is ready to cook as desired. RENNET, TO PREPARE— Rennets should not be saved from calves less than a week old; those from 3 to 4 weeks old make the best. Never use a stomach of an "animal the least out of health. Take the rennet out immediately after the animal is killed, turn inside out without washing, cure thoroughly with dairy salt, dry perfectly, and keep in paper bags till wanted for use. For use, soak in clean whey, saturated with salt, for 24 hours before using, frequently squeezing them with the hand to macerate. After being soaked, keep the liquor as cool as possible in tightly covered ves- sels until used. TO PREPARE BLADDERS FOR USE — Soak them for 24 hours in a basin of water in which a little chloride of lime has been dis- solved; then clear all extraneous matter from the bladders, wash them thoroughly in clean water, and hang them up to dry. SAUSAGES — Use the trimmings and other lean and fat por- tions of pork, selecting about twice as much lean as fat. Some consider it an improvement to add about one-sixth the weight of 174 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS beef. Season to taste. Some use salt and jjepper alone (say 1 tea- spoon to 2 lbs. of meat), and others add sage, thyme, mace, cloves and other spices. If the meat is put into muslin bags 2| to 3 inches in diameter, and, after being filled, are dipped into melted lard and hung up in a cool, dry place, it will keep very satisfactorily. PORK SAUSAGES.— For these the right proportions of fat and lean meat is about ^ fat, and for every 10 lbs. of the minced sausage 4 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of pulverized black pepper, and 1 table- spoon pulverized sage is nearly the right proportion of seasoning. Mix thoroughly, but add no water. It can be packed down in stone jars, with hot lard poured over it, to be cut out in slices for cooking; put in cheese-cloth bags of the right size to cut off pieces to serve, or it can be filled into the small intestines for beef or pigs, and tied into links. The intestines should be cut into pieces about a yard long; strip out the contents, turn them inside out on a stick; take them off and wash thoroughly in warm salted water; put to soak over night in another salted water; the next day thoroughly scrape them on a board with a dull knife; then soak them another night in salted water, when they will be ready for use. BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.— Take 3 lbs. lean beef, 3 lbs. lean pork, 2 lbs. fat bacon, 1| lbs. beef suet; put the lean meat into a stew=pan of hot water, and set it over the fire for ^ hour; then cut it small, each sort by itself; shred the suet, bacon or ham, each by itself. Season with pepper, thyme, chopped fine, and ground mace; fill ox= skins with it, tie them in lengths, and put them in a beef brine for 10 days; then smoke them the same as ham or tongue. Rub ground ginger or pepper over the outside after they are smoked, and keep them in a cool, dry place. (To prepare the skins, take ox intestines, cut them into strips about 6 feet long, wash them thoroughly in warm water, and then turn them inside out and wash again; scrape them with a suitable scraper designed for this use, wash off, and put them into salt water to soak until desired for use. Be very careful not to tear the skins while working on them.) A SIMPLE WAY TO SMOKE MEAT.— Take a kerosene or rain water barrel, and drive nails around the top on which to hang the meat; fill an iron pan or pail half full of ashes, and build a fire in it; set it in the bottom of the barrel, place a board on top and cover with a heavy cloth or blanket to keep out the air and con- fine the smoke. Those without a smoke house can easily do a little smoking in this way. CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 175 LARD, TO MAKE. — Cut the fat up into pieces about 2 inches square; fill a vessel holding about 3 gal., with the pieces; put in a pint of boiled lye, made from oak and hickory ashes, and strained before using; boil gently over a slow fire until the cracklings have turned brown; strain and set aside to cool. This will give more, whiter, and better lard than any other process. LARD, TO BLEACH. — Apply a mixture of bichromate of potassa and muriatic acid in minute proportions to the fat. LARD, TO KEEP SWEET.— When rendering (melting) it, throw into each kettle a handful of slippery elm bark. Add no salt at any time; the jars in which it is kept must be perfectly cleaned. This plan will keep it sweet even in the warmest weather. BEEF FAT. — This, if thoroughly cooked in water and the fat skimmed off as it rises, is very nice. It will remain soft, and is pre- ferred to lard by many, for various uses. TALLOW, TO CLARIFY.— Dissolve ^ lb. of alum in 1 pint of water; add 50 lbs. of tallow in a jacket kettle (^. e., a kettle set in a larger one, and the intervening space filled with water; this prevents burning the tallow); boil it f of an hour and skim. Then add \ lb. salt dissolved in 1 pint of water; boil and skim. When well clarified the tallow should be nearly the color of water. SUET — Cut fresh suet in small pieces and cover them with water; let them remain in the water bath 24 hours, but change the water once during the time; this removes the peculiar tallowy taste. Now drain well and put in an iron kettle with ^ teacup of milk to each pound of suet ; let it cook very slowly till the fat looks clear and is light brown, and till all sound of cooking has ceased. Loosen the pieces from the bottom of the kettle to prevent scorch- ing, but avoid stirring; let it stand till partly cooled, then pour into cups to become cold. It smells as sweet as butter, and can be used in place of it for many purposes. The fat left in the pieces may be pressed out and used in various ways. HASH AND CROQUETTES. ^ I /HE dinner table should be liberally supplied with both meat \\ [ and vegetables, as it is the principal meal of the day. This W I v£> should be done so that each member of the family can be gen- erously helped, remembering that a family stinted in food, no matter how finely dressed, or housed, can never be in a healthful condition; it also provides for unexpected guests. The remainder of the dinner, if at noon, can be sliced cold, and served with the supper if needed, or minced the next morning for hash. Hash is also a fine accompaniment on the supper table in cold weather, when hungry children come from school. The meat for dinner need not be of the most expensive joints, for the cheaper cuts are quite as nutritious, and, if properly cooked, can be made very palatable. HASH AND MINCED MEATS. Under this head are included recipes for mincing and re=warm- ing in an appetizing manner, cold meat of all kinds, fish, etc., etc. This minced meat is usually combined with vegetables, or bread, ei- ther in crumbs, or toasted slices, and forms a series of dishes, both economical and agreeable to the palate. The French term Salmis (Salmy by foreign cooks) is used more particularly to designate minced game re=warmed in various ways, but in plain English it is simply hash. In making hash, and in re*warming any kind of cold meat, do not confound the term re= warming with re^cooking; to re= cook meat is to harden it, and the secret of good hash is to make it just piping hot, and no more. HASH. — One of the most common forms in which cold potatoes and meat left from yesterday's meal appears, is — hash. Not 1 per- son in 10 knows how to put it together appetizingly. Chop fine such bits of cold meat as you may have, add a double quantity of potato, chopped fine also, mix well, season with pepper and salt to taste; 8 minutes before you wish to serve the dish, melt a tablespoon of but- ter in a spider, and, when hissing hot, put in the hash and press it down well and evenly all around. At the end of the time specified, have a heated plate ready, turn it over the spider, tip the latter upside down with the plate beneath, and send your steaming " hash cake " 176 HASH AND MINCED MEATS 177 to the table. This " hash "can be varied indefinitely. Some prefer a larger portion of meat, others not so much. Occasionally a flavor- ing of chopped onion may be added, or a spoonful of any good catsup or sauce to give piquancy. And sometimes for a change, mix as di- rected, flour your hands well and form into balls, and fry light brown in plenty of hot lard. Do not stir hash while it is heating, for that inclines it to stick to the pan, and it also makes the hash salvey. The very best hash is made with hot baked potatoes, | potato to ^ of finely chopped meat. BAKED HASH — Chop finely the remnants of cold meat left from dinner, chop cold potatoes and add — there should be twice as much potato as meat. If there are not enough of cold potatoes for this proportion, dip 2 slices of bread in cold milk or water, and chop; season with salt and pepper, and herbs, if liked, with a bit of sliced onion. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, in the baking^pan, put the hash well mixed in the pan and cover tightly with a plate; bake ^ hour, and turn out in a cake on a hot dish. If it is covered with a white pie=plate, that is the best dish to serve it on, as it is already hot. Economical and good. Serve with pickles. CORNED=BEEF HASH — If the family is large, in addition to the daily dinner, it is well to boil a piece of corned^beef every 2 or 3 days and have this hash every day or every other day, either for sup- per or breakfast, as it is economical and liked by most people. Not- withstanding the threadbare jokes about " hash-mills, " " hash=factor- ies," mysteries," etc., people still like a good dish of hash when they have "confidence in the cook." Cook the beef slowly until done; let it get cold in the liquor it was boiled in, then take it out, wipe it dry, and it is ready to chop. Use the fat and lean together, and the cold fat from the top of the kettle to heat with the hash. Have the pota- toes quite cold, or they will stick to the chopping knife. A lady with a large family of fashionable boarders, told the writer that this dish was often called for at her table. FRENCH HASH. — Take cold bits of meat left from a roast of beef, chicken or cold turkey, finely minced, add gravy enough to make moist; when quite hot, place the mixture over toast. This is a very nice breakfast dish. HAM HASH. — Take equal parts of potato, boiled ham and bread, chojpped fine, and cooked in hot fat left from' frying ham; cook about 10 minutes, and season with pepper when it is ready to be dished. SCOTCH HASH — Chop raw beef very fine; add butter about the size of an egg, pepiDer, salt, and chopped parsley; cover with 12 178 HASH AND MINCED MEATS water, stew 15 minutes, keeping it covered. Pour it over slices of toasted bread, TURKEY HASH. — Mince the remnants of turkey left from a previous dinner. Boil the bones in a quart of water until the quart is reduced to a pint; then strain, add turkey gravy if you have it, a bit of butter if the turkey is not fat, with a seasoning of salt and pepper; if there is dressing left, boil it in with the bones. Dredge a little flour over the minced turkey, put it in the hot gravy and let it just come to boiling heat. Serve in a hot dish on slices of toasted bread. VEAL HASH — Chop ^ pint of fricasseed veal (do not make it as fine as for croquettes); put veal fat, beef dripping or butter, in the stew=pan with the meat; if you have no broth or gravy, add hot water enough to wet the meat. Season with pepper and salt, dredge on a little flour, stir all together, put in a hot dish, with slices of toasted bread or crackers in the bottom, and send to the table with baked potatoes. VEGETABLE HASH — Take equal parts of boiled vegetables, corned-beef, and salt pork, chopped togethei ; this makes a fine hash. When you have a boiled dinner, always have enough left to make hash for breakfast the next morning. Tlie vegetables used are potatoes, turnips, cabbage, beets, and parsnips or carrots; put the fat from the kettle in which the dinner was boiled, in a large frying=pan, and let it melt; then put in the hash, smooth it down, put a pie= plate over it to keep in the steam, set it on the back of the stove for 15 or 20 minutes until thoroughly heated, and dish it in the hot 13late which covered it. Vegetable hash is often made without meat, and is much liked by most people. HASH PIE — Take any kind of cold meat and chop it finely; season with salt and pepper, put in a layer of bread crumbs, then a layer of meat, then crumbs, until the dish is full. Make a gravy, pour it over, and bake. SCRAPPLE — This can be made of odds and ends of fresh meat such as would be used for soups — pigs' heads and feet, beef shanks and trimmings. Boil the meat with sufiicient water to cover it well, until the meat separates from the bones; then take it up, remove the bones, cut, or chop the meat finely, and return it to the broth ; add salt, pepper, and herbs, if liked. Let it boil up again and thicken it with corn-meal to make a stiff mush, and cook it thoroughly. Put it in bread pans to solidify, and, when cold, cut off in slices and fry in salt CROQUETTES 179 pork fat, dripping, or sausage fat. This is an inexpensive dish, and excellent in cold weather, for supper or breakfast. Finely minced remnants of any kinds of cold meats, with the gravy, can be utilized in the above manner, instead of the fresh meat. PILAFF. 1 onion. Butter the size of an egg. 2 cups minced cold meat. 1 teacup rice. 1 pint tomatoes. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and cut the onion in, then fry to a delicate brown; add the rice, and brown that in the butter, taking care not to let it scorch. Next add the tomatoes and 1 pint of hot water; cover and cook until the rice is done, adding more water if needed, but it should not be watery when done. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne, and curry powder if liked; then put in the chopped meat, stir well, and send to the table hot. POTTED MEAT OR FISH — All kinds of meats can be potted, and the same general principles hold good for all. Take the cooked meat or fish, remove it from the bones, clear away all skin and gris- tle, and pound it in a mortar. It should be well pounded, reduced to a smooth paste, and no unbroken fibre left. Then add spices, pepper, salt, made mustard, mace and cayenne; the amount used varies. If it is intended for immediate use, add the spices sparingly; if to be kej^t some time, spice highly. Then moisten with melted butter, and press the mixture down in small pots or jars of stone or earthenware, and let it get thoroughly hot in the oven; or better, steam it 30 min- utes in the steamer. Then press down again and cover with hot clarified butter or beef suet, and tie paper dipped in egg over the top. Game of all kinds, fish and beef, are best put up alone, but chicken or veal can be mixed with tongue or ham. This potted meat can be used in slices, or for sandwiches, and as it will keep for weeks if properly put up, it offers a change from hashes or stews, for using remnants of food which are left over. CROQUETTES. These are somewhat allied to hash, as they are only elaborate dishes made of finely cut meats, or with fish, oysters, vegetables, rice etc., or of several of these ingredients combined. They are formed into rolls or ovals, and usually fried in smoking hot fat, after they are egged and bread- crumbed. Drain on paper, or a wire sieve, paper being best. The mixture may be stiffened by working in a little fine 180 CROQUETTES cracker dust, if too soft to roll well, but it is apt to be made too stiflf if any uncooked material like flour is added. If the fat in which they are fried is not hot enough they will burst open, especially rice and potato croquettes. Time to fry, about 1 to 2 minutes. BAKED CROQUETTES.— Take 2 cups finely chopped veal, ^ cup dried bread crumbs, 1 egg, well beaten, 1 teaspoon salt, \ teaspoon pepper, a pinch of mace; form into croquettes, roll in eg,g and cracker crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. BRAIN CROQUETTES — Put 2 oz. of butter or beef drippings into a sauce-pan and set on the stove; when the butter has melted, add 1 small onion chopped fine; let it brown, then add calf's brains cut in small pieces, a small slice of bread first soaked in cold water and squeezed dry, a little thyme, minced parsley, \ nutmeg grated, a little cayenne pepper and salt; heat these all well, then remove from the stove and add ^ cup of milk and 1 egg, well beaten. Mix all thoroughly and set aside to cool. When cold, form into croquettes, dip them in beaten egg,, roll in cracker crumbs and fry brown in hot fat. ' CHICKEN CROQUETTES.— To 2 cups of cold boiled chicken, finely minced, add 1 cuj) of fine bread crumbs, 2 well beaten eggs, pepper and salt to taste; add a little cream if not moist enough — it should be as soft as can be, and keep its shape after being molded. Have ready on the fire a kettle of hot fat; flour the hands and make the croquettes into rolls a little larger than English walnuts; dip them in beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs; place in a wire bas- ket and fry in the hot fat until a golden brown; drain on a wire sieve, then keep them hot until time to serve. Chicken Croquettes No. 2. — Take 1 cup finely chopped chicken, 1 cup finely sifted bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, \ teaspoon white pepper, ■| teaspoon chopped parsley, and ^ cup stock, made by boiling the bones of the chicken; heat all together, and then stir in 1 beaten egg. When cold, form into croquettes, roll each in fine bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again. Put them carefully into the frying'basket, and plunge it into smoking hot fat for 1 or 2 min- utes. CHICKEN AND OYSTER CROQUETTES.— Take one cup of cold chicken, chopped fine, 1 saucer of cold, escalloped oysters, also chop- ped, I cup sifted bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a little mace, and 1 egg, beaten light; add a little broth made of the bones of the chicken boil- OKOQUETTES 181 ed in just water enough to cover them. Have the mixture as soft as you can handle it, form into long rolls as large as a man's finger, roll in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with slices of lemon. FISH CROQUETTES — Remnants of any cold fish, egg, bread crumos, cayenne, salt, and fat for frying are needed for these. Flake the fish finely, season to taste, add an equal quantity of bread crumbs; make a stiff paste with beaten egg; form Into round balls about an inch thick and 3 or 4 inches long, and fry them a golden brown in smoking hot fat. HOMINY CROQUETTES.— Soak 1 cup hominy in water all night, and the next morning boil it till tender in 1 quart milk; let it cool, add 1 tablespoon butter, 1 egg, and season to taste with salt and cayenne. When cool, shape it in balls, egg and bread-crumb each, and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato or onion sauce. LOBSTER CROQUETTES.— Use the fresh or canned lobster; strain off all the liquor and chop fine. Take 2 slices of bread, soak in water, remove the crust, squeeze dry, and mix with the lobster; season with salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and mix to a paste with a well beaten egg. Form into cakes, dip in beaten egg, then in sifted cracker crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. MEAT CROQUETTES — Use 1 quart of meat, either chicken, veal or lamb, chopped but not too fine. To this quantity allow 1 cup stock or gravy, 1 cup rich milk or cream, 2 large tablespoons of butter, 2 large tablespoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon onion juice, cayenne and white pepper to taste, mace and any sweet herbs liked for seasoning meat, and 1 large cup boiled rice. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan, add flour, stir, then add stock or gravy, then the milk; when thick so that it can be raised from the pan with a spoon, add meat, rice and seasoning; stir till thoroughly mixed. Remove from fire, pour into a large flat dish and leave till perfectly cold, then form with the hand into cone or pear shapes, roll in bread crumbs, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in smoking hot lard. Turn with a long handled skimmer and when brown lift out and place on brown paper to absorb the surplus fat. Set in a moderate oven for 5 minutes and serve. OYSTER CROQUETTES.— Take the oysters, beard them and cnop fine, and mix into a firm paste with bread crumbs, moistened with the yolk of an egg, seasoned with parsley, sweet marjoram, pep- per and salt. Cut into finger-shaped pieces, and fry a delicate color. Strain and serve piled high on a dish, garnished with parsley. 182 CROQUETTES POTATO CROQUETTES.— Take 2 cups cold mashed potatoes, 2 eggs, salt to taste, ^ cup fine cracker crumbs; mix well, and roll on the kneading board with the hands in round cakes or long ones; scatter a little fine cracker dust on the board; egg and bread crumb, and fry until brown in smoking hot fat. RICE CROQUETTES.— Take ^ cup rice, boil until soft, let it cool and beat into it 2 eggs, 2 spoons sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt; mold into balls, egg and bread-crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. RICE AND CHICKEN CROQUETTES. -Take 1 cup cold chopped chicken, seasoned with pepper and salt, and one cup boiled rice; heat together on a teakettle, pail or double boiler, and if the mixture seems dry, add a little milk; when hot, stir in 1 egg, beaten light, and take from the fire when thoroughly mixed. When cold, shape into balls, egg and bread=crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. VEAL CROQUETTES — Take 1 heaping cup of cold chopped veal, 1 cup fine, dry bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, a pinch each of sage and red pep- per, 2 teaspoons lemon juice; moisten with sweet milk, heat it, and add 1 egg, w^ell beaten; use milk enough to make it as soft as you can handle when it is cold. When cold, form it into croquettes, egg and bread-crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. The Sage is a hardy shrub, a native of the south of Europe. There are several kinds of it, known as the red, the green, etc. Its principal use in cookery is for stuffing and sauces, the red being most agreeable for this use, and the sage. green next. The other varieties are used for medical purposes. KROMESKIES. — Kromeskies are croquettes cooked in the Rus- sian manner; they are made as follows: Mince the remains of any cold meat, fish, poultry, or shelbfish, as for croquettes; season them nicely, and shape like a cork. Instead of dipping them in egg, and afterwards in bread crumbs, cut some slices of cold fat bacon (boiled) as thin as writing paper; wrap the croquettes in these, dip each one in a little frying batter, fry them in hot clarified fat, and when brown and crisp, arrange neatly on a hot dish; garnish with fried parsley, and serve immediately. Kromeskies may be made according to any of the recipes given for croquettes, and should be cooked as above. SCOTCH COLLOPS — Cut away the fat and any skinny portions there may be from about 1^ lbs. of steak, and mince it finely, sea- soning it well with salt and pepper. An onion can be added, if liked, CROQUETTES 183 but this is a matter of taste. Melt a little butter in a stew-pan, put in the mince and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. In about 8 minutes, dredge a little flour over it, and pour upon it a little stock, boiling hot. Let it simmer gently a minute or two longer, and serve very hot. Three-cornered pieces of toasted bread may be put around the dish as a garnish. KOUFTAS (An Indian Dish) — Chop cold meat finely, season it well with pepper, salt and spice, make it into a paste with the yolk of egg, form it into cakes, and fry (saute) it brown in butter. EGGS. \ I flcLE eggs of different birds vary much in size and color, ) I / Those of the ostrich are the largest. They are said to be ^X pleasant in taste, and to keep longer than hens' eggs. The eggs of the goose are large, but well flavored, while turkey eggs are almost as mild as hens' eggs. Ducks' eggs have a rich flavor, and the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish when set by boiling. Guinea fowls' eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of the hen. The eggs of wild fowl generally partake somewhat of the flavor of the bird they belong to. Those of sea=fowl have a fishy taste more or less strong. The eggs of the turtle consist of yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. Hens' eggs are the ones principally used, and when raw they weigh 2 to 2^ oz. The white of an egg is principally albumen, while the yolk contains most of the fat found in the egg, and most of the mineral matters, the latter being principally sulphur and phosphate of lime. Eggs are deficient in the carbohydrates, and hence bread, pota- toes, rice, or other starchy foods, should be eaten with them to supply the elements they lack. It will be wise to use eggs freely, as they are nutriment in its most portable and concentrated form, and they are palatable to all classes of people. They are strengthening to consumptives and to all feeble persons, and young children. They are medicine as well as food. The white of an egg is a sooth- ing application for a burn, as it coats it over and excludes the air, and it is an antidote for various poisons like corrosive sublimate, creosote and acids, as these articles coagulate albumen, and if white of egg is given soon after they enter the system, it combines with them and protects the stomach. Children do not receive into their systems a sufficient supply of lime for the development of bones, if eggs form a large part of their diet, for the albumen and vitellin of eggs, although highly nutritious, and adapted to the making of muscle, is deficient in lime. The embryo chicken takes its lime for the growth of bone from the shell of the egg, which diminishes in thickness day by day, until the time of hatching, when it becomes so thin as to be easily broken for the escape of the chicken. If the water supply of the family is in a limestone formation, children will get a sufficiency of lime through the medium of water; but if the rock forma- tion is primitive, and the water very soft, the defect may be remedied by the use of lime=water, as explained in the chapter on "Invalid Cookery." Invalids should never be given eggs which are more than 2 or .3 days old, as they will then have begun to deteriorate. The albumen in an egg will not become thick enough to beat well until it has been laid about 10 hours; for boiling or poaching, eggs 1}4 days old are best. The philosophy of cooking eggs is explained in our article on the principles and processes of cooking meat, which see, 184 EGGS 185 In breaking eggs, each one should be broken separately into a cup, and then there will be no danger that a bad egg will spoil other eggs or materials. Also be careful not to break the yolks, as that will spoil them for poaching, frying, etc. When putting eggs in to boil, great care should be taken not to crack the shell, as a portion of the white will then exude inevitably, and it lets water into the egg. When fresh eggs are dropped into a large quantity of boiling water, they crack, -because the interior, being full, is expanded by the heat, and the shells give way. If the quantity of water is small, the shells do not crack, because putting cold eggs into hot water lowers its temperature. Stale eggs do not crack because the air inside is easily compressed. Prick pin-holes in the large end of the shell to keep the contents from oozing out through the crack, if an egg is cracked before putting it into the water. Eggs should always be washed as soon as they come into the house. Take a little cloth and carefully remove every particle of soil from the eggs, and then the shells will be ready to use in clarifying coffee or soups. COLORING AND DYEING EGGS.— Eggs can be easily dyed for Easter, etc. The aniline dyes are useful for the purpose. A simple plan is to place the eggs in colored water and boil them in it. Mot- toes, monograms, etc., may be produced as follows: Draw upon the shell with simple oil and a camel's hair brush, whatever name or de- vice it is wished to display; then j)lace it in the coloring liquid and the portions touched with oil will remain white, while the remainder will be dyed. In a similar way the ground may be left white while the designs are colored. Wrapping them in calico which is brightly colored, and then boiling them in lye, will also color them. Eggs can be colored brown by boiling them in strong coffee, and yellow with onion peeling Cochineal will color them any shade from crim- son to pink, according to the quantity used. Logwood chips will color them any shade from port wine to black, by varying the quantity used. They can be made like gold or silver by coating them with painters' size (after boiling them hard) and then rolling them in a plate containing gold or silver dust, such as bookbinders use, until they are entirely covered, or a name or other device may be put on in this way. A little butter or oil rubbed over the egg when it is sufficiently cool to handle, after being boiled, gives it a nice bright look. BAKED EGGS.^Cut nice toast into squares. Take eggs out of the shell, keeping yolks whole. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, lay 186 EGGS the beaten white around nicely on the toast, drop yolks in center of white ring, sprinkle on salt and put in hot oven to bake a few min- utes. When taken out of the oven, pour a little melted butter on the toast. No 2. — Grease a pie^plate well with butter, break into it as many eggs as it will conviently hold, and bake until the whites are fully set and the yolks slightly hardened; slip them on to a hot platter, and drop bits of buttej over them, with a sprinkling of salt. TO BOIL EGGS — Many fairly good cooks do not know how to boil eggs in the best manner. There are 2 good ways. One is to put them into cold water, gradually bring it to a boil, and as soon as the water commences to boil, they will be done. Another way is to put them into a sauce=pan and pour on boiling water enough to cover them; pouring the hot water on the eggs will lower its temper- ature a little; then let it simmer, not boil, until they are done, keeping the water about 180° to 185°. It takes longer to cook eggs in this way than when they are put into boiling water, but when done, they will be jelly-like instead of tough and leathery, and are more easily digested. The length of time to leave them in the water depends on the individual taste. An egg to be soft-boiled should not be cooked in boiling water, for then the albumen near the outside will become tough before the yolk is heated. To hard=boil an egg, it needs only to be left in the sim- mering water longer — say 20 to 80 minutes; it will then be solid but not leathery; the yolk is more mealy when cooked 20 minutes then wdien cooked 10. Eggs for salads, etc., should be thus hard=boiled, and, when done, put in a basin of cold water a few minutes; then roll them on the table with the hand and the shell will peel ofp easily. Do not cut up eggs for garnishing purposes until about the time they are needed, or the yolk will dry up and get discolored. Breakfast Eggs. — A nice breakfast dish is made by taking eggs from the shell and boiling them 2 minutes in a cup of sweet cream; then season with salt and pepper. CREAMED EGGS. — Kemove the shells from 6 hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves, and cut a slice ofP the round end, enough to make them stand*. Put one tablespoon of butter in a sauce^pan to melt; add 1 tablespoon flour, mix till smooth, add 1 teacup milk or cream, and stir until it boils; season with salt and pepper. Stand the eggs on a heated dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. CURRIED EGGS. — Cut some hard-boiled eggs in halves; cut ofP the white end sufficiently to make them stand upright; then pour some curry sauce around them, and serve. EGGS 187 DEVILED EGGS. — Boil 1 doz, eggs hard; cut in two, length- wise, take out the yolks, and mash them. Prepare 2 teapoons of mustard by pouring a very little boiling water on, and mix smooth; add a small teaspoon of butter, 1 of sugar, a little salt, and a few drops of vinegar. Mix some of the prepared mustard with the yolks, and refill the white part of eggs with the dressing. They make a nice garnish for lettuce, and also a nice dish for picnics. Other stuff- ings can be devised and filled into the whites in the same way. Cut them in two crosswise instead of lengthwise, if preferred. DROPPED EGGS ON TOAST.— Have ready a dish of boiling water, well salted, break the eggs into a saucer, and slide into the water, one at a time. Let the water keep at boiling point, but not bubble, and dip the water with a spoon over the top of the eggs. Have ready some nice buttered toast, take the eggs up with a skim- mer, lay on the toast, dust a little salt and pepper over them, and serve. ESCALLOPED EGGS — Boil 1 doz. eggs for 25 minutes; put in cold water and take ofp the shells. Slice the eggs, and put them in a pudding=dish in alternate layers with bread crumbs, having a layer of the finest crumbs on the top of the dish. Season each layer of eggs with pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, if liked, and be- fore putting on the top layer of crumbs, pour over it a pint of sweet cream. Bake until browned on the top. Serve hot. A good coun- try dish for luncheon, tea or breakfast. FRIED EGGS. — Take a hot frying-pan, put in a lump of butter, let it melt, and then droj) in the eggs; let them fry 3 minutes; add salt and pepper to season; lift out with a skimmer. The nicest way, however, is to use the egg molds now made for the purpose in various sizes. In each mold put a piece of butter, and when melted, drop in the eggs; to prevent the under side from being over^done, loosen the edges every few seconds; season with salt and pepper, and take out with a spoon when done. Sorrel, spinach and green salads are nice with them. If a few eggs are fried in a large mold, put hot water in the unused forms. Cold Fried Eggs can be used for salad, or revamped by dipping them in fritter batter, and frying. A fine sauce for fried eggs is made of stewed tomatoes, grated cheese, and a couple of chopped up boiled sausages. EGG GEMS. — Mix together chopped cold meat and bread crumbs, in equal quantities. If liked, a tiny bit of onion, chopped 188 . EGGS very fine, may be added to the meat and crumbs. Season with pep- per, salt, a spoonful of melted butter^ and enough milk to wet and bind it together nicely. Have some gem=pans well greased, and fill with the mixture; then break an egg carefully on the top of each, season it with a little salt and pepper, and sjprinkle some fine cracker or bread crumbs on the top. Bake 8 minutes. EGG NESTS. — Dip slices of toast quickly in hot water, spread lightly with butter, pile on, in the shape of nests, stiffly beaten and salted whites of eggs, place a yolk in the center of each, and bake 8 minutes. OMELETS — These light and simple dishes require practice to prepare them to perfection. Do not cook them until just before they are needed, and then serve them at once on a very hot dish. The mixing is simpler than the cooking. Any smooth iron spider will answer, but have it very clean. Have a clear fire, and the pan hot before making the omelet. Mix the omelet, moisten the bottom of the pan with a little butter, pour in the omelet and as soon as slightly brown underneath, turn ,one half over the other with a knife, let it harden a moment, and turn out on a plate, or lift out with a pancake turner. Brown the omelet merely — never burn it, as the scorched egg flavor is an injury to it. Numerous flavorings can be added, and the name will be derived from the meat, fish, vegetable or herb used. Omelet, No. 1. — Beat 6 eggs very light, the yolks and whites sepa- rate; add ^ teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons of milk; have a very hot pan, put in 1 tablespoon of butter, pour in the egg mixture, shake on the hottest part of the stove until the egg begins to thicken, then place on a grate in the oven until set; run the knife between the omelet and pan, fold the omelet over, and serve on a hot dish. Omelet No. 2. — Take 6 eggs, beat yolks and whites separately; add 1 teacup milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pep- per to taste. Cook, and serve hot. Baked Omelet. — Take 4 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of flour and a little salt; add the whites just before putting the mixture in the oven. Bake 20 minutes in a well-buttered dish. Baked Omelet No. 2. — Six eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of flour, a pinch of salt. Beat the whites and yolks separately. Mix the flour, milk and salt, add the yolks, then add beaten whites. Have a buttered spider very hot; pour in. Bake in a quick oven 5 min- utes. Green Corn Omelet. — Take 6 ears corn, grate or cut the kernels EGGS 189 fine, add 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 cup milk; season with salt and pepper, and bake f hour. Orange Omelet.^Mix a little orange juice, grated rind, and sugar, with the eggs before cooking them. Or (2) slice the oranges, remov- ing the seeds and skin; make a plain omelet, and fold the omelet over part of the oranges, and spread the rest on top when it is done, sugaring the top also. Queen Omelet. — Use 2 extra yolks to every egg. Beat fast for 2 minutes. Have the frying=pan or spider hot, with a piece of butter the size of an egg; set in a hot oven and bake. When done it will be a light puff, and the extra yolks will keep it in shape and prevent its falling. Sprinkle with salt, and, -^ if liked, with sugar; turn on a hot plate, sprinkle the other side with salt, and send to the table. Rice Omelet. — To 1 cup of steamed or boiled rice, add 1 cup of water, 3 well beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoon of butter; season with salt and pepper, and, if liked, with a little finely chopped ham. Bake until it is a light brown. Sweet Omelet. — Do not use any pepper, but add a little sugar — about 1 teaspoon for each egg. Make like a plain omelet, and when done, sprinkle sugar on top. This can be varied by putting any desired kind of jam, jelly, marmalade or preserves on top,*or they can be folded inside when the omelet is folded over. Omelette Souffle. — Beat thoroughly together the yolks of 6 eggs and 6 tablespoons of pulverized sugar; flavor with vanilla or lemon, and then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir lightly and quickly with the yolks and sugar; bake in an enameled puddings dish, or in small paper souffle cases, one for each person. The souffles should bake 10 or 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven, and be sent to the table immediately, as they soon fall. Blanched and pulverized sweet almonds can be added to the above for Almond Souffle. Various Omelets. — Any sort of an omelet can be made by folding into the omelet either sardines, tomatoes, ham, oysters, cheese, kid- ney, mushrooms, macaroni, or whatever one desires or has on hand. Asparagus tops are nice in an omelet. The ingenious cook can devise many new and attractive dishes. POACHED EGGS — Break the eggs separately into a cup; let them slide gently into boiling water with a few drops of vinegar in it. Take them out and serve on hot buttered toast. They are often conveniently poached in a frying-pan; when poached in quantities they are apt to run together. In poaching eggs, a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar in the water keeps the whites from spreading. 190 EGGS EGGS POACHED IN GRAVY.— Poach the eggs in gravy instead of water. Serve them in their gravy, if clear. Or, poach the eggs in water, and serve with rich gravy poured round them. HAM AND EGGS. — Prepare thin slices of fried or broiled ham, and serve a poached egg on each one. EGGS ON RICE — Butter a baking dish and fill it | full of cold rice which was seasoned with salt and butter when boiled; make as many depressions in the rice as there are persons to be served, break an egg into each depression, sprinkle with salt and strew with bits of butter. Bake until the eggs are set. Serve hot. SPANISH EGGS — Serve poached eggs on highly seasoned, hot, boiled rice. ANCHOVIED EGGS.— Prepare slices of toast, spread them with butter and' anchovy paste, and put a poached egg on each slice. Sar- dine paste may be used instead of the anchovy, if preferred. SCRAMBLED EGGS — For every egg allow an even tablespoon of melted butter and a tablespoon of sweet milk. When the butter and milk is hot, put in the eggs without beating, and stir. When it begins to cook, scrape fast from the bottom of the frying=pan to keep from scorching. Take off while very soft, as they cook a half minute after being taken off, for which many cooks do not allow. Serve by itself hot, or on toast. A dash of lemon juice added just as they are going to the table is an improvement. Scrambled Eggs No. 2. — Beat the eggs, and allow 1 tablespoon of milk for each egg; season with salt and pepper, and fry in a buttered frying=pan, and while cooking, stir from the bottom. A few spoons of boiled string-beans, or boiled peas, or tender ends of aspara- gus left over from dinner, can be stirred in; these are nice, furnish variety, and use up remnants. Try and devise new dishes. SCALLOPED EGGS — Moisten bread crumbs with cream; place a layer in the bottom of a buttered dish; slice hard-boiled eggs, and put in a layer of them, with butter, pepper and salt, with chopped cold meat; continue alternately until the dish is full; sift grated crumbs over the top, and put bits of butter on it; set it in the oven and bake 10 minutes. SHIRRED EGGS — Take 6 eggs, 3 tablespoons of gravy — from poultry is best — enough fried toast to cover bottom of a flat dish, a very little grated cheese, 1 teaspoon butter. Melt the butter in a frying-pan; when hot, break into this the eggs. Stir in gravy, and EGGS 191 season; stir quickly and well up from the bottom, until the whole is a soft yellow mass. Have ready in a flat dish the fried toast. Heap the shirred eggs upon this, and serve before it hardens. SCOTCH EQQS. — With 1 cup of cooked ham, chopped fine, mix ^ a cup of bread crumbs made into a paste with ^ a cup of milk, ^ a teaspoon of prepared mustard, a little salt, and 1 egg, well beaten; hard=boil 6 eggs, remove the shells, and cover them with the prepared mixture, and fry about 2 minutes in very hot fat; serve either hot or cold. Chicken, veal or «almon may be substituted for the ham, but lemon juice should be added to the seasoning if salmon is used. SNOWED EGGS.— Beat the whites of 6 eggs till stiff; have on the stove 2 cups of milk sweetened and flavored with vanilla; when it boils drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoons, and as soon as they set dip them out. Let the milk cool a little, then slowly stir in the yolks of the eggs, and when thick pour it around the snowed eggs and serve. STEAMED EGGS, — Break each egg into an egg-cup, set them in a steamer and steam until cooked. They can be put in buttered patty=pans, if more convenient, and then steamed. Serve hot. STUFFED EGGS. — Ciit hard-boiled eggs in two, take out the yolk, and mix it with fried onions, a little finely chopped ham, and parsley, pepper and salt; fill the whites with this mixture, and fry until the yellow browns a little. EGG TOAST — Take a tablespoon of butter and 2 of cream, and warm together in a frying-pan. Break 6 eggs in it and stir lightly until cooked; have it well seasoned; have buttered slices of toast, spread the mixture on it, and serve hot. MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE. MILK. ILK is the only food which, taken alone, will support life in all its stages. It is the only perfect food for children, and in old age it is one of the most valuable foods known. The fat rises in the form of cream; curd is the nitrogenous matter, and the whey contains sugar of milk,' or lactose, with the salt or mineral matter. Milk differs as procured from different animals, but its general characteristics are the same in all, and that of the cow is most generally used. Unless the milk is of the best quality, all the preparations made from it will be of an inferior character. Milk when taken into the stomach is coagulated by the acids in the gastric fluids, and the coagulum (curd) is digested like any other solid. The watery parts are absorbed. If much milk is drunk rapidly it will form a solid mass; if it is sipped a little at a time it will be broken into small parts, and will, therefore, be more easily digested. A quantity of acid taken into the stomach just before or after drinking milk is apt to harden the curd, and so interfere with its digestion. Between milk, flour and blood, there is great similarity of composition. The curd is the albumenoid part'. From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of distinct kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk, some forming food, others drink; some of them delicious and deserving the name of luxuries, all of them wholesome, and some medicinal. Milk when first drawn from the cow is slightly alkaline, but afterwards lactic acid is formed, so that it becomes first neutral, then acid, and the acidity goes on increasing until it is perceptible to the taste; this acidity is thought to assist in the rising of the cream. In milk we have the tissue=making elements in its casein, and the heat^making in its butter; the curd or casein is changed to albumen again in the process of digestion. The souring of milk is. caused by the bacteria which alight on the milk and cause a fermentation which acts on the lactose (sugar of milk) and forms lactic acid, which causes the sourness. When enough acid is formed it will unite with the soda in the casein, making lactate of soda. The casein, when thus deprived of its soda, is insoluble in water, and it shrinks into a curdy mass. The introduction of an acid will hasten the process, as is done in making cheese. Solidified milk is made by sweetening fresh cow's milk, and evap- orating it to dryness in a water bath; when re^dissolved in water, it is said to have all the qualities of fresh milk. This preparation of milk is sometimes called lactoline. Sugar of milk is the dry, white, nearly tasteless powder used by physicians in preparing medicine in powders. It does not gather dampness like cane sugar, and will keep in good condition for years. It is sometimes given to children by itself, as a remedy in certain conditions of the system. It is made from evaporated whey. Canned or Condensed Milk. — This is now to be obtained in all parts of the civilized world, and is invaluable, as, being evaporated 192 MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE 198 by steam and hermetically sealed, it will keep for an indefinite time, while sealed, and after the can is opened, if care is taken, it will keep good for a week. The directions for reducing it are on the can. There is cane sugar added to it before condensing, and it has the color and consistency of thick, opaque honey. It can be used clear, a teaspoon to a cup of coffee, without sugar, as it is already sweet- ened. Diluted to the right consistency, it is much used as a food for infants. When good milk is difficult to obtain, condensed milk is a great blessing, for, being sterilized by extreme heat, it is free from dangerous germs. The large amount of cane sugar which it con- tains, and which is added to preserve it and prevent its thickening in the can, renders it somewhat less suited for infants than the natural milk, however. Sour Milk. — If milk sours on your hands, do not throw it away — it can be used in various ways, as in making corn bread, soda biscuit and all kinds of pancakes, while many cooks prefer it to sweet milk, in making cookies, doughnuts and gingerbread. Sour milk can be substituted for sweet in making most kinds of cake, but remember in that case that only half as much cream of tartar should be used as the recipe calls for. Buttermilk also has many uses besides being used as a drink (to drink, it should be fresh) as it can be made into soup, or used in making corn bread, pancakes, soda biscuit, and many kinds of cake. BUTTER. Butter is the solidified oil or fatty matter of the milk of animals. The Greeks and Romans neither employed it in cooking, nor had it brought upon their tables; they used it only as an ointment in their baths. Th'C Hebrews appear to have used it as food from an ancient date, and in England it has been used from very early times. In making butter the utmost care is required in all the manipulations from the time it leaves the cow until it is packed. The peculiar flavor of butter is derived principally from the butyric acid it con- tains. In the milk, the globules of fat are held in solution by the albumenoid (or proteid) matters, forming what is termed an emul- sion. The albumenoid matter must be separated from the butter before or during the process of churning, or the butter will not keep well. TO MAKE BUTTER QUICKLY.— Immediately after the cow is milked, strain into clean pans and set over a moderate fire until it is scalding hot; do not let it boil; then set it aside, and when cold, skim off the cream, and the milk will still be fit for any ordinary use. 13 194 MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE When you have enough cream, put it into a clean earthen basin, beat it with a wooden spoon until the butter is made, which will not be long; then take it out of the milk and work it in a little cold water until it is free from milk, then drain ofp the water, put in a small tablespoon of fine salt to each lb. of butter and work it in. A small teaspoon of fine white sugar worked in with the salt will be found an improvement; sugar is a great preservative. Make the butter in a roll, cover with a piece of muslin and keep in a cool place. An easy method of washing butter is to remove the butter from the churn, pour off the milk or buttermilk, as the case may be, half fill the churn with cold water (a little salt may be added to the water), replace plunger and throw back the butter, and operate the churn as before for 1 minute. This process will extract all the milk from the butter, which may then be placed in a sieve to allow the water to strain from it, and then worked in the usual manner. BUTTER, TO SALT (Jn"s/i i?ec?i9e).— To 1 lb. of common salt add 1 lb. of saltpetre and ^ lb. of white sugar; pound all these together and mix them well, and to every pound of butter allow 1 ounce of this mixture; make it fresh as you want it, observing to be careful always to keep the same proportions, and to mix the ingre- dients thoroughly. The butter should stand a month before you use it, to ripen. Butter to Salt, No. 2. — One pound of best salt, 4 oz. of sugar and 1 oz. of saltpetre; pulverize it well together, and allow of this, 1 oz. to the pound of butter. CLARIFIED BUTTER, OR GHEE, as it is called by the Arabs, is prepared as follows: Put butter in a farina boiler or porcelain bowl, put it on the stove and bring to a boil; when cheesy, thick, white grains form, move it to the back of the range; the buttermilk which rises to the top should be skimmed off; after it has settled, strain it, and the clear, oily fluid remaining can be bottled for use. It can be kept for years, and for frying oysters, fritters, etc., there is nothing better known. SUBSTITUTES FOR BUTTER — Butterine In preparing this, lard is heated to a temperature not exceeding 120°, and the oil is sep- arated; a similar oil is obtained from beef fat, the 2 are mixed, and they are then churned with milk, making the butterine of commerce. Oleomargarine.* — In preparing this, beef fat is washed, ground, *It was during the Francc'=German war of 1870-71 that a French chemist Mege» Mourier acting under instructions from Napoleon III, went into his laboratory and MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 195 and heated to 120° to 200° to separate the oil, which is known as "butter oih" This is cooled, salted, put into milk, a little annatto added to give it color, and it is then churned and worked like butter. In preparing butterine and oleomargarine only the best fats can be used, for there is no way now known to remove the unpleasant odor of fat if it is at all foul. These preparations are about as nutritious as true butter, and if properly used they are a most valuable addition to the food of the poorer people, who commonly suffer from a want of fatty food. Strict laws have been passed in some of the states against their sale except under their true name, and this is very de- sirable. It is a fraud to sell them for pure butter, but if well made, and sold for what they really are, they merit an extensive sale. They are certainly preferable to the poorer grades of butter, often partly rancid, which are frequently sold in the large cities. The objection to their use rests rather on sentiment and prejudice than on any phy- siological basis. They are to be considered rather as substitutes for, than imitations of butter. Other substitutes for butter are the vegetable oils; olive oil is best, if pure, but it is often adulterated with inferior oils. Peanut oil is ex- cellent, and cotton=seed oil of late has taken an important place in cookery; it is inexpensive, and a less quantity is required than of butter in cooking. A preparation of cotton-seed oil and beef suet has been widely advertised, and is much used instead of butter and lard. Sesamum or Benne oil should be better known; it is easily raised in the southern states. It is a bland and oderless oil, and a most excellent substitute for olive oil in salads. It keeps for a long time without becoming rancid, if stored in a dark place. Poppy=seed oil is also being used now somewhat. We believe the day is near at hand when some of the vegetable oils will largely supplant lard and other animal fats in nearly all cooking operations. Some people who have a dread of "margarine," take a piece of fat pork, melt it down, and strain it through a piece of coarse, thin muslin; then set it aside until it is cold. It is then white and firm, and may be used like butter in any kind of cake. In pound cake it is delicious. A Word About Fats. — And right here we may say a few words about different fats. There are three substances called "stearin," "mar- garin," and "olein" whicl^, without exception, principally make up all the fats we consume. They are called " neutral fats," and the fact invented the process of making a substitute for butter, designing it for use in the French army. The process has since been further perfected, and the making of these substitutes has now become a great industry. 196 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE that they melt at different temperatures constitutes the principal difference between them. There is a small amount of what are known as " fatty acids " in the vegetable oils, and in butter there is from 5 to 8 per cent, of 4 of these fatty acids (butyric, capronic, caprylic and caprinic) and from these butter derives its pecular fla- vor. Olein melts the most easily, and stearin the least so. The fats which melt most readily are the most digestible, and are most readily assimilated by the system, but the healthy stomach readily disposes of any fat used in the household, in reasonable quantities, although it should be taken into the system finely divided instead of in lumps. It will readily be seen, therefore, that all the fats are sub- stantially alike, and when once they are assimilated, they perform the same services for the body. Their flavors, and the readiness with which they melt in the mouth and in the digestive tract, make some forms, like butter, more palatable than others. Mutton fat would do about as well as any, but it is not swallowed readily because it con- tains so much stearin. The body requires a certain amount of fat, but it makes very little difference which one it takes, and for this reason the introduction of some cheaper forms of fat, in such a shape that they will be palatable, will be a great benefit to the mass of the people. We believe, as we have elsewhere stated, that some of the vegetable oils will soon be quite generally used, and it is certainly to be desired that they should be. Wealthy people will always use the best butter, but the mass of the people should understand what the cheaper substitutes are, and their properties and merits, and cer- tainly there is no hygienic or physiological reason why they should not use these cheaper substitutes, and so make a material saving in the household expenses. To keep butter sweet when it seems likely to taint, take some lime water and put the vessel containing the butter into it, leaving it there until the sweetness is restored. Rancid butter may be sweetened and recovered (1) by washing and kneading it well, first in new milk, and afterwards in cold spring water; butyric acid, on which the rancidity depends, being freely solu- ble in new milk. (2). Beat the butter in a sufficient quantity of water, in which you put 25 to 30 drops of lime chloride to each pound of butter. After mixing it till all its parts are in contact with the water, it may be left in from 1 to 2 hours; afterwards withdraw, and repeatedly wash in fresh water. (3). Melt the butter and skim as for clarifying; then put into it a piece of bread thoroughly toasted all over. In 1 or 2 minutes the butter will lose its offensive smell and taste. (4). Thoroughly mix 1 teaspoon of soda and 1 tablespoon MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE 197 of salt for each pint of butter; then add equal parts of butter and cold water, set on the stove, and bring all to a boil; then remove, let cool, and take off the butter; it will be sweet, and good for cooking. (5). A little saltpetre worked into butter that has become sour or rancid will render it sweet. — Remember that great care must be taken not to burn butter when trying it out. A word about rancid butter. — Nobody eats it on br^ad, but it is sometimes used in cooking, although it really ruins every dish into which it enters. It is injurious, and many cases of dyspepsia can be directly traced to rancid butter. It should never enter into the comp.osition of any dish which appears on the table. Sweeten it or throw it away. To keep butter hard in hot weather, without ice, invert a large crock of unglazed earthenware over the dish containing the butter (a large, clean flower^pot will answer); the porousness of the earth- enware will keep the butter hard if the pot is wrapped in a wet cloth. Another way is, after one meal is served, take a silver-plated butter^ dish, clean and wash it, then when cool, place on it sufficient butter for the next meal; set the dish in a shady, airy place (in a draft if possible); wet a clean towel with cold water, cover the dish tightly with the towel and let it stand until the next meal; the evaporation of the water will cool the butter. CHEESE. When milk is curdled it separates into two portions — curd and whey. The former consists of the butter and casein, and produces cheese; the latter is mainly water, holding the sugar and mineral constituents of the milk in solution. Any acid introduced in milk has the curious property of coagulating the curd or casein. This acid is supplied by the " rennet," but in some countries a weak solution of hydrochloric acid is used instead. In preparing cheese for cooking, old cheese should be grated, and new and soft ones should be chopped. An analysis of cheese shows it to be one of the most nourishing of foods, 1 lb. of average cheese containing more nutriment than an equal weight of ordi- nary meat. Eaten raw it is not suited to persons of weak digestion or of sed- entary habits, and it tends to produce costiveness. If it could be properly cooked it ought to be one of the most desirable of foods. It is frequently over=cooked, converting it into an air=tight, leathery substance, which is harder to digest than the raw cheese. When lightly cooked it is easily assimilated, and very nourishing. In fact it is too nourishing to be eaten heartily as an accompaniment to meat; it is more adapted for the main course of the meal. It is most deficient in the salts of potash, which, on account of their great solubility, are left behind in the whey. Eating freely of fruits or salads will supply these salts, but vegetables do not answer the purpose, because in ordinary methods of cooking them, their salts are dissolved out and wasted. With the advance of scientific knowledge and scientific cookery, the true value of cheese for food will sometime be better appreciated, and it' will take a much more important place among the foods of the race than at present, we believe, and 198 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE it is certainly entitled to it. We would add that some of the German scientists have recently been investigating the digestibility of cheese. Dr. Rubner found that when taken alone he could not consume much of it, but when taken with milk he easily assimilated nearly 3^ lb. The softer kinds are very largely used in Germany. Except in fat, skim cheeses are as nutritious as any others. Rennet. — This is made from the fourth or lowest stomach (the ahomasus) of the calf. Soon after the animal is slain the stomach should be cut open at 1 end, emptied of the curdled milk, and turned inside out; then with a damp cloth dipped in dry salt, carefully wipe the inside of the bag until it is free from any particles of curdled milk; do not wash it, as that extracts the gastric juice. Rub fine salt thoroughly into both the inside and outside of the bag, place it in a bowl, and cover it to keep out the flies. The next day there will be a brine formed with the salt; turn the rennet^skin in the bowl, and let it stand another day to pickle. Take a long, slen- der, green, wooden stick, make it into bow shape, and stretch the ren- net bag on the stick and hang it up to dry. When thoroughly dry, do it up in paper so that no insects can get into it, and keep it in a dry place. To Prepare Rennet. — When wanted for use, the dried rennet is cut in pieces about an inch square, and if to be used for invalids' curds it is put in a bottle with wine; a piece half the size of the hand is enough for a pint of wine; it must be kept well corked. It is bet- ter to have the druggist prepare the wine after his formula. A tea- spoon is enough to " set " a quart of sweetened milk. Set the milk on some solid foundation, as it then coagulates with much less ren- net than when it is jarred by people walking near it. For dairy purposes the rennet is steeped in a weak brine, but that way of pre- paring it is not the best for invalid cookery. The Usual Mode of Serving Cheese, is to cut the desired quantity into neat, square pieces, and put them in a glass cheese-dish, in which it is handed around the table. If the cheese is too crumbly to serve in this manner, the host or hostess can have the large piece of cheese placed on the table, with a cheese-scoop to serve it with, or a heavy silver spoon. The cheese must be nicely scraped before serving in the latter way. When there is a cheese course at dinner, several kinds of cheese are placed on the table at once, cream cheese, Parmesan, Stilton, etc., etc., and rusks, crackers, or fancy biscuits, fanciful pats of butter, lettuce, cucumbers or cresses, are served with the cheese. Parmesan cheese is, perhaps, the most celebrated of the foreign varieties. It is made of skimmed miilk, and owes its rich flavor to the fine, sweet herbage of Lom- bardy about Parma and Pavia, in Italy, where the cows are pastured. It is distin- guished by its power of keeping, and after being kept some time it becomes hard and needs to be grated before it can be used. MILK, BUTTEE AND CHEESE 199 BOILED CHEESE. — Take 2 thick slices of cheese, 1 teaspoon of butter, ^ teacup of milk, a little sugar and mustard, 1 egg, pepper and salt to taste. Put all the ingredients, except the egg, into a clean pan, and stir over the fire until they boil and become quite smooth; then beat the egg well, and stir it in over the fire for a minute, after which pour out on a dish and brown in the oven. CREAM CHEESE. — Dip a cheese cloth in salted water, and put it in a square dish or baking tin, having first laid a folded napkin in the dish; on the cheese=cloth put the thickest cream you have — -it must be perfectly sweet (Devonshire cream is the best); pour the cream in, a little at a time, and sprinkle a little salt on each layer; fold over the cloth and let it lie until the next day; then turn it into a dry cloth, i3ut a dry, folded cloth under it, put a liitle square platter on it, and set a flat=iron on the platter; change the dry cloth once more, and on the third day it is ready to eat. If preferred, this cheese can be made in a round form in a pudding^dish. COTTAGE CHEESE. — Put a pan of sour or loppered milk on the stove or range where it is not too hot; let it scald until the whey rises to the top (be careful not to let it boil or the curd will become hard and tough). Place a clean cloth or towel over a sieve, and pour this whey and curd into it, leaving it covered to drain 2 or 3 hours; then put it into a dish and chop it fine with a spoon, adding a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of butter, and enough sweet cream to make the cheese the consistency of putty. With your hands make it into little flattened balls. Keep in a cool place. Some like it made rather thin with cream, serving it in a deep dish. DEVONSHIRE CREAM.— The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, and half that time in warm weather; then the milk pan is set on the stove, and should there remain until the milk is quite hot, but it must not boil. When it is sufiiciently done, the undu- lations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The time required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan, and the heat of the fire, but the slower it is done the better. Set it back in the dairy again, after scalding, and skim the following day. This cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious when eaten with fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from this cream, and is usually very firm. CHEESE FRITTERS. — Put into a sauce-pan 1 pint of water, 1| oz. of butter, a teaspoon of black pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and 200 MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE bring the water to boiling point; then gradually stir in flour enough to make a thick paste. Remove from the fire and incorporate ^ lb. of grated Parmesan cheese, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a froth, and the yolks of 4. Let the paste stand for 2 hours, and then fry in little pieces, dropped into boiling lard. Sprinkle a little salt over them before serving. • FONDUE. — Beat 6 eggs until light; season with salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons grated cheese; put a tablespoon of butter in a frying^ pan; when hot, pour in the eggs and stir until well done and smooth; serve on buttered toast. THE HOME CHEESE SCALLOP.— Soak 1 cup of dry bread crumbs in fresh milk; beat into it 3 eggs, add 1 tablespoon of butter and ^ lb. of grated cheese; strew upon the top sifted bread crumbs, and bake in the oven a delicate brown. ITALIAN CURDS {Gallino Curds).— Take a number of the rough coats that line the gizzards of turkeys and fowls; clean them from their contents, rub them well with salt, and hang them to dry. When needed for use, break off bits; pour over them a little hot water, and after standing over night it is ready for use. It makes a more delicate curd than calf's rennet. Warm 2 quarts of milk, and add some of the gallino liquor, and, when the curd is well set, dip it carefully with a large spoon or ladle into a colander over which a cheese=cloth has been spread; handle it carefully so as not to start the white whey. When the whey has separated from the curd, so that it has consistence, sprinkle with salt, and send to the table. CHEESE AND MACARONI {Italian ilf ode). —Boil 6 ounces of the best macaroni in 3 pints of boiling water, with a little pepper and salt. Allow it to simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes, then drain it, return the macaroni to the sauce-pan with \ a pint of good gravy and allow it to simmer until it has absorbed all the liquid. Have ready grated ^ lb. of cheese, put half of it with the macaroni until it is nearly melted, and then add the remainder with an ounce of butter. Stir it well, always the one way, until cheese and macaroni are well mixed. Serve very hot. A little short crust bordering the dish is an addition. POLPETTI {Italian). — Chop cold meat finely, either roast or boiled; season with mushrooms or truffles, and grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, salt, pep^Der and chutnee sauce; spread on a tin to cool, after being well heated together; cut in small squares when cold, dip in egg, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. Serve with plain boiled macaroni and cream. MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 201 POTTED CHEESE — To pot cheese is an economical way of disposing of any that has become dry. Cut the cheese into small pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding a little nice sweet butter, just sufficient to make a paste suitable for spreading on bread for sandwiches; add a little mixed mustard, and a trifle of cayenne to the paste; pack in little earthen pots; if to be set on the table for an appetizer, cover closely, and set in a dry place; if there is danger of mold, put a few drops of extract of cloves on the top of the paste before covering; or, if preferred, a thin layer of nice salad oil. SMEAR CASE — Pour boiling water on clabbered milk, till the curd separates from the whey; let it stand till the curd settles, then pour cold water on it and stir; let settle, drain water off; do this till the water is clear, then let it settle, and squeeze out enough curd for one meal. Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and pour good, sweet cream over. You can keep it in water for several days, by changing the water every day. CHEESE STRAWS. — Mix together 4 tablespoons of flour, a pinch of salt, a very little cayenne pepper, and 3 oz. of grated English cheese. Add the beaten yolk of an egg, and then enough iced water to make a very stiff paste. Roll the paste out on a board into a sheet ^ of an inch thick. Cut the paste into strips ^ of an inch wide and 5 inches long, and bake them about 10 minutes in a very hot oven. They should be a very light brown. If you have any scraps of paste left, roll them into a sheet, and cut it into small rings. Bake them, and slip little bundles of the straws through them. TOAST WITH CHEESE — In 1 cup of milk stir 1 cup of grated cheese, and boil until the cheese softens in the milk; then add 2well= beaten eggs; stir until it boils, take from the fire and spread over nicely==browned toast. Served very hot. This will be found enjoya- ble. It is a nice dish for breakfast or tea. WELSH RAREBIT.— Cut slices of stale bread about | inch thick, and toast them a nice brown on both sides (take time enough so that it can be well done without scorching, and this rule will apply to making toast at any time). Have as many thin slices of rich, mild cheese as there are of the toasted bread; dip the edges of the toast in hot water, and spread with softened butter; lay a slice of the cheese on each slice of toast, and set the platter on the top shelf of a hot oven until the cheese is melted into the toast and slightly browned. Another way is to lay each slice of toast on a blue=edged English baking-plate, just a little larger than the toast; 202 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE dust a little cayenne, or pepper, on the toast before putting on the cheese; place the little plates in a large dripping-pan, without water, set on the top shelf of the hot oven, and when done as above directed, serve each person with the rarebit on the hot plate. Another method is to melt the cheese in a little cup and pour it over the prepared toast. Some add a little butter and milk, stirring it into the melted cheese till smooth, before pouring it over the toast. Others add a little egg, butter, mustard and cayenne. Do not make it until just ready to serve it, as, if it stands and becomes cold, it will be nearly spoiled. CHEESE CRACKERS. — Take small, thin crackers, sprinkle on grated cheese and set in the oven until the cheese adheres to them. Serve either hot or cold. Some people butter the crackers lightly and add a dash of cayenne before sprinkling on the grated cheese. SALADS. ALADS are preparations of vegetables, fruits, nuts, meats and fish, which are dressed with oils, acids, salt, pepper and often mustard. Vegetables when eaten raw are apt to fer- ment in the stomach and the condiments used, such as vine- gar, pepper, salt and mustard, aid in their digestion. The prejudice against the use of oil which is entertained by many people is proba- bly exaggerated, as it is a nutritious food and aids digestion, but medical authorities differ about its value. The vegetables used in salads should be very carefully cleaned, using ice=cold water to wash them in, and they should be after- wards carefully dried in a towel. Do not break the leaves if you can help it, as that will make them wilt quickly. Putting lettuce, cabbage, celery, etc., into ice- cold water for 2 or 3 hours will make them crisp. Vegetable salads are best eaten at once after they are made, but chicken salad will keep a number of days in cold weather. As a knife when used on a vegetable salad will blacken it, and impair its crispness, it is better to avoid using one; use a wooden spoon to stir a salad, and stir no more than necessary. The freshest olive salad oil is the best to use. Cotton^seed oil is often sold as olive oil, which is a fraud, but if sold at a fair price un- der its true name, its use is unobjectionable, as it is a nutritious vege- table oil. Melted butter is used instead of oil by some people, who say they like it better. While melted butter may do for family use, oil is the only thing for " state occasions." Arrange a salad on a plat- ter or in an earthen salad bowl; never put it in glass, as it looks disagreeably smeary when you begin to dish it out. As lettuce is necessary to so many salads, a word may be said about the proper way to prepare it. It is quite apt to be infested with insects which penetrate even to the inner leaves, and therefore each leaf must be carefully washed and examined. Let it stand in very cold water an hour or longer, shake in a wire basket or coarse towel to free it from water, and put in the ice=box until serving time. An easier and quicker way than cutting lettuce for salad is to lay 6 or 8 leaves together in the hand and twist and tear them apart; it is better to tear than to cut it. There is a common idea that salads are difiicult to make and are principally adapted for the wealthy, or for special occasions. This 203 204 SALADS is a mistake, as they can be made from " left=over " vegetables, and so are economical, and they are easily prepared when one knows how. The common people among the French use them almost daily, and to advantage. The vegetables used should be drained or dried thoroughly from the water, or the dressing when applied will be watery, and spoil the salad. Do not prepare plain salads until wanted at the table; if prepared long beforehand, the lettuce withers, and the dressing becomes watery. There is an admirable Spanish proverb about dressing salads. It says it requires 4 persons to mix a salad; a spendthrift to throw in the oil, a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to add the sea- soning, and a madman to stir it together. To Fringe Celery. — A simple and convenient way to fringe celery stalks, is to take a cork, put many large needles in the end, and then cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long, and draw about half of each strip through the needles a few times. When well shred- ded, put away to become crisp in a cold place. Thus prepared it makes a good garnish for salads, meats, etc. To Marinate a salad, is to let it stand for a time to season, sprinkled with a French dressing. Although salads usually contain no flesh forming or heat giving material, they are valuable because they introduce into the system large quantities of saline mat- ter, which by the common method of cooking is generally removed from vegetables. For this reason they are of much value to the poorer inhabitants of our towns and cities. They should be cleaned very carefully so that no parasitic animals remain in them. The vegetables are best used when freshly cut, although some of their fresh- ness may be regained if the stalks are freshly cut and placed underwater. The salad dressing should not be added until the last moment. The French and Italians seem to best appreciate the value of salads. SALAD DRESSINGS. FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.— Mix 1 saltspoon salt and | saltspoon pepper; then mix in 3 tablespoons salad oil slowly, and 1 tablespoon vinegar, and pour it over the salad. If liked, ^ tea- spoon of onion juice can be added; some people also add 1 teaspoon of made mustard. Lemon juice or tarragon vinegar can be used instead of the vinegar if preferred. For a French dressing the standard proportion is to use 3 times as much oil as vinegar, but some people use as high as 6 times as much oil as vinegar, and others as low as ^ as much. Tastes differ, and these rules are all variable. MAYONNAISE DRESSING.— Break the yolks of 2 raw eggs in a soup plate, beat smooth with a silver fork, and add oil, a few drops at a time, until it begins to thicken, when it can be added in SALADS 205 larger quantities; but the stirring must be kept up constantly, and with a rapid motion. When it grows thick, add a few drops of vin- egar, beat smooth, again, and then add 1 teaspoon of salt, a level saltspoon of mustard, and a dust of cayenne. The vinegar should be added a little at a time until 2 tablespoons have been used. The amount of oil depends on the quantity of dressing required, but a scant cupful will be an abundance for an ordinary salad. Should the mayonnaise curdle, or crack, as it is called, take another egg, add oil in small quantities until it thickens, and then stir in the curdled mixture, which will soon grow smooth and velvety in appear- ance. Take special pains in hot weather to have both ingredients and utensils ice cold. To color mayonnaise, lobster coral will produce a bright red, and spinach green or chopped parsley will color it green. BOILED DRESSING. — Take 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of mustard, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of oil or butter; stir together until smooth, and then add 3 eggs and beat well; add 1 cup vinegar and 1 cup milk and cook in a double boiler to a smooth paste, stirring constantly. It will keep 2 weeks in a cool place. BOILED DRESSING No. 2.— Beat 3 eggs well; add | cup but- ter, 1 cup vinegar, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tea- spoon mustard, ^ teaspoon cayenne pepper; boil until thick. CREAM DRESSING.— Rub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs fine with a spoon, stir in a tablespoon of melted butter, ^ teacup of thick sweet cream, a saltspoon of salt, a dust of cayenne, and vinegar enough to reduce all to a smooth, creamy state. Add a little mustard also, if liked, and pour it upon salad when ready for serving. EGG DRESSING.— Rub to a paste the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs. Add 1 teaspoon each of mustard, salt and sugar, with ^ tea- spoon of pepper, drop in about 2 tablespoons of salad oil or sweet cream, and add 4 tablespoons of lemon juice. This is a nice dressing for canned salmon also. SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL — Rub till smooth the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, add 1 teaspoon powdered sugar, \ tea- spoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, | saltspoon of salt and a pinch of cayenne; mix thoroughly and add equal amounts of cream and vinegar until the mixture has the desired consistency. Rubbing the rind of a fresh lemon on a piece of loaf sugar, and dis- solving this in the vinegar before using it will be an improvement. Those who cannot eat salads containing oil can try this dressing. 206 SALADS SWISS DRESSING — Put 2 ounces of cheese in a mortar, pound it well, add 1 tablespoon vinegar, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and very gradually dilute it with salad oil. VEGETABLE SALADS. BOILED SALAD. — Boil celery and beans separately until ten- der, cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long, put both into a salad dish and cover with one of the salad dressings previously given. Some peo]ple find salads indigestible when made with raw vegetables, and the cooked salads are more wholesome if less agreeable to the taste, A little boiled onion, boiled cauliflower, chopped lettuce, blanched endive or tarragon can be added if desired; also slices of cold meat, poultry or fish. ASPARAGUS SALAD. — Take boiled asparagus and dip it while warm into melted butter with which is mixed a little mustard and lemon juice or vinegar. The extreme ends need not be coated. Ar- range with the heads toward the center. It is better if iced before serving. Or (2) cut the tender parts of boiled asparagus into short lengths, and cover it with a mayonnaise dressing. BEET SALAD — Cut cold boiled beets into pieces, and cover with any salad dressing. Celery or other vegetable may be added if desired. STRING BEAN SALAD. — String young, green string beans, and cook till tender in salted water; then drain, cover with cold water, let stand till cold, drain and dry. Serve with or without let- tuce, and use a French dressing. Add a little onion juice, if liked, CABBAGE SALAD. — Chop a cabbage, and add a French, may- onnaise, or boiled dressing. CARROT SALAD — Into a salad bowl put 1 cup chopped celery, f cup boiled sliced carrot and 2 cups chopped cold veal; add a little finely chopped raw onion, season with salt, pepper and a very little melted butter, pour over ^ cup^ood vinegar and mix well. CAULIFLOWER SALAD. — Boil the cauliflower, cut in pieces, and cover with a French or mayonnaise dressing. A little parsley, boiled beets, carrots or tomatoes can be added if desired, and also cold tongue or other meat. COLD SLAW. — Take f cup vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tea- spoon salt, ^ teaspoon mixed mustard, butter size of small egg; mix, stir until it boils, and when cold pour it over chopped or shaved cab- bage. Very nice. (The term " cold slaw" is derived from the Dutch Kohl'Slaw, meaning simply cabbage salad.) SALADS 207 Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw. — Take 2 tablespoons whipped sweet cream, 2 tablespoons "sugar, 4 tablespoons vinegar. Beat well, and pour over cabbage previously cut very fine, and seasoned with salt. CREAM SLAW. — Chop a head of cabbage fine and sprinkle on a little salt; let it stand while you make the cream. Mix well together, and cook slowly until quite smooth and. creamy, 1 table- spoon flour, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, ^ teacup vinegar, ^ teacup sweet milk or cream; when done, pour over the cabbage. After you put it in the dish, sprinkle with pepper. Excel- lent. If kept in a cool place will be nice for 1 or 2 days. HOT SLAW — Chop a head of cabbage and put into the kettle, with a tablespoon of lard (or meat fryings) in the bottom, with enough hot water to keep it from boiling dry; add a little salt and pepper. When the cabbage is boiled tender, beat 1 egg in a teacup ^ full of vinegar, and then fill the cup with cream (sour cream will do as well as sweet); pour it over the hot cabbage, let stand 5 min- utes, and serve. Will cook in 1 hour. CELERY SALAD — Wash and wipe ^ dozen heads of celery. Cut with shears in a salad bowl. Mix the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of mustard, a little salt and pepper and the juice of 2 lemons with 2 tablespoons of water. Stir well together, drop over it 3 ounces of salad oil, then add a spoon of hot water, and pour over the celery. Endive is used also for salads like celery. Endive is a native of China and Japan. It resembles sea*kale in flavor, being rather bitter, and it is used for salads and soups. It is not so tender as lettuce, but it makes an excellent winter salad. EsoAEOLE and Monk's==Bbaed {Barbe de Capucin) belong to the same family as the endive. They can be made into salads alone, or mixed with sorrel, lettuce, etc. They make good winter salads, and also excellent salads to serve with game. The method is simiply to cut them small, and, using 1 alone, or 2 or 3 different vegeta- bles mixed, to cover them with a good salad dressing. CHICORY OR SUCCORY SALAD.— Take a bunch of chicory cut small, add 1 boiled egg and 1 onion cut fine, and pour over a good salad dress- ing. Chiooey or SuoooEY belongs to the order compositce, and the leaves are blanched and used for salads, while the root is used to adulterate coffee. ohiooey. CREAMY SALAD — Whip thick cream to a stiff froth; add to it some of the boiled salad dressing given among our dressings; have the salad dressing cold; use 2 or 3 times as much of the whipped cream as of the salad dressing. Have ready cold boiled potatoes cut into small dice, pour over the mixture and stir it together. It is more light and creamy than other salads. 208 SALADS CUCUMBER SALAD.— (1) Peel and slice fresh cucumbers, and let them stand in a bowl of water 2 'hours, changing the water twice. When it is time to serve dinner, drain and chop the cucum- bers coarsely with a knife, and add 1 or 2 new onions, cut finely. Put in a salad dish, and send to the table without dressing. Serve in small salad-plates and send it around the table with salad oil, vin- egar, salt and pepper, (2) Mix sliced cucumbers and new onions, sliced, and cover with a French dressing. DANDELION SALAD — Choose that which is small and tender, cut off the root, wash carefully, drain and shake out the water, put it in a salad bowl and cover with a French dressing. Chives and chervil can be sprinkled on top, if you have them, before applying the dressing, or add a little sliced onion if liked, or lettuce or other vege- table. Cheevil. — This is a plant the roots of which are poison- ous, but the leaves are tender and are used in salads. They emit an aromatic flavor and are often called myrrh by the peasantry of Scotland. The leaves are also used to flavor soups. OHEBVIIi. LETTUCE SALAD. — Lettuce makes the foundation for many excellent salads. Prepare it as previously directed, and serve it crisp and cold. It can be served (1) alone with French or boiled dressing; or (2) mixed with celery cut into dice, and with a French dressing, which makes an excellent salad. It goes well (3) mixed with sorrel, with a French dressing, or (4) with chives, using the same dressing and garnishing with olives, or (5) with pepper=grass and water-cress- es mixed, using a mayonnaise dressing, and garnishing with radishes. A few nasturtium blossoms for a garnish produce a brilliant effect, (6) A bed of lettuce covered with sliced cucumbers, and a layer of sliced tomatoes on top, covered with a mayonnaise or French dress- ing, makes a good salad. Lamb's Lettuce (also called Corn^salad or Fetticus) is a small annual plant, often used for salads. It comes early in the spring, and although inferior to let- tuce, it makes a fairly good substitute for it, and a good spring salad. OKRA SALAD. — Put it on top of a bed of potato salad; sprinkle on mustard and cress and dress with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt, pep- per and a little grated horseradish. Another way is to mix sprigs of cress, endive, young onions and radishes with okra, and cover with any salad dressing liked. PEPPERS SALAD — Take boiled peppers, cut them into strips, add a few drops of onion juice and cover with a French dressing. It goes well with hot or cold meats. iR^SSi'*« S»ALMZ. ESS SAt-^e SALADS 209 POTATO SALAD. — Cut cold boiled potatoes in dice and "mar- inate'''' in a French dressing; chill thoroughly, then arrange in a tasteful manner, and garnish -with parsley, chopped pickled beets, and hard=boiled eggs, sliced. For a quart of cut potatoes, a teaspoon of salt, a saltspoon of pepper, 3 tablespoons of oil, and 3 of vinegar, are required for the dressing, and 4 hard-boiled eggs. This is a tasteful dish of white, yellow, red, and green. POTATO SALAD, No. 2. — Chop 1 large or 2 small onions very fine; add 12 cold boiled potatoes and chop also; if lettuce is to be had, chop a head or more with the onion — if not, take the tender green leaves of a cabbage. Pour on the boiled dressing given among our dressings, and put curled lettuce around the edges and slices of cold boiled egg on top. POTATO SALAD WITH EGGS — Cut cold potatoes finely, and mix with French salad dressing; place on. a garnished platter, and cover with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Good for a luncheon or sup- per dish in hot weather. RUSSIAN SALAD — Cut up very small, equal quantities of any cold vegetables; adding lettuce, endive and cress, if you have them; add any cold fiaked fish, mix all well in a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, turn out into the dish in which it is to be served, and garnish with olives, filleted anchovies and lemon jelly, SALAD IN JELLY — Fill a mold with a lemon or other gelatine jelly; when cold, cut out most of the center, leaving a shell of jelly, fill it with salad, and serve. SALSIFY SALAD. — Chop cold boiled salsify, and pour over it a French or mayonnaise dressing. Or (2) it can be combined with other cold boiled vegetables, such as cauliflower, carrots, beans or potatoes, and then the salad dressing added. SPINACH SALAD. — Take cold boiled spinach, mince fine, cover with a French salad dressing, and garnish with sliced hard=boiled eggs. It goes well with roast beef, mutton or game. SUMMER SALAD.— Thoroughly wash and drain 2 heads of let- tuce, the heads of 2 green onions, and a handful of the tops of freshly cut mustard and water cress; add a plain dressing, placing it under the vegetables and stirring well before using The mustard and cress are so highly flavored that a plain dressing is better than a more elab- orate one. 14 210 SALADS SWEET POTATO SALAD.— Boil 3 large sweet potatoes, and when thoroughly cold cut them into half=inch squares; cut into very small pieces 2 stalks of celery; mix with a seasoning of salt and pep- per, and pour over it a French dressing. TOMATO SALAD — (1) Cut ripe tomatoes into slices, remove all the seeds, sprinkle on a French dressing, let them stand 2 hours on ice, and they will be ready to serve. (2) Another way is to peel the tomatoes, cut them in two, put a spoonful of mayonnaise dress- ing on each half, and serve. GELATINE SALAD — Take a quart can of tomatoes, stew, strain, add a teaspoon of salt and f box of gelatine soaked in ^ cup of cold water, and then dissolved in ^ cup of boiling water; put it in cups and when set and cold turn them on to leaves of lettuce and garnish with mayonnaise dressing. RED VEGETABLE SALAD.— Use 2 cups each of cold boiled potatoes, cold boiled beets and raw red cabbage. Cut the potatoes in thin slices, and the beets fine, and slice the cabbage as thin as possible. Cover with a dressing made of 6 tablespoons of oil, 8 tablespoons of red vinegar (that in which beets have been pickled) 2 tablespoons of salt and ^ teaspoon pepper. Let stand in a cold place an hour before serving. VARIOUS VEGETABLE SALADS — Almost any cold vegetable may be used for salads, and this is an excellent way to utilize the remnants of vegetables left from dinner the day before. Take any one alone, or several vegetables mixed, and arrange them tastefully (with lettuce if you have it, without if not); cover with a French or mayonnaise dressing. Many varieties may thus be made by any housekeeper. ' WATER=CRESS SALAD — Pick over the leaves and remove bruised or wilted ones; if long, tear them into 2=inch lengths; if short, it is not necessary. Cold boiled beets, cut in dice, or chopped onion may be added. Use a French dressing. Water^cress makes one of the most wholesome of salads, and is remarkable foT the amount of mineral matter found in it. The garden cress also makes an excellent salad. Cresses can be used alone, or mixed with cucumbers, tomatoes or onions for salads, and then cover them with a good salad dressing. "WINTER SALAD. — Bake 1 Spanish onion and 1 large or 2 medium sized beets; slice them and cut the slices in two twice; cut 3 stalks of celery quite fine and mix with it 1 tablespoon of minced SALADS 211 herbs; mix all together and set in a cool place till time to serve; then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over 1 tablespoon of butter and 3 tablespoons of vinegar. MEAT, EGG AND CHEESE SALADS. BEEF SALAD. — Take the crisp, small center leaves of 2 heads of cabbage lettuce; add ^ lb. cold boiled, fresh beef, cut in small pieces. Add or not, as preferred, a tablespoon of chopped sweet Spanish peppers. Serve with a plain salad dressing. Lamb Salad can be made the same way, by using instead of the beef, f lb. cold roast lamb, cut in small pieces. HAM SALAD. — Cut cold boiled ham into dice, lean and fat to- gether; mix with celery or lettuce and cover with a boiled dressing. CHICKEN SALAD — Take the meat of 2 large boiled chickens, free it from skin and fat and cut in dice ; add an equal quantity of celery cut in dice, 3 olives, chopped, 2 teaspoons capers; make a dressing of 6 spoons salad oil, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, and a dash of red pepper; pour it over the salad and let stand several hours in the ice chest. Then arrange it on a platter in a mound, pour on a mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with lettuce, olives, beets and carrots cut in fancy forms. The chicken should be cooked the day before using so as to be thoroughly cold. (See "Veal Salad.") Chicken Salad, No. 2 — Take the meat from 1 cold boiled chicken, and 2 teacups celery; do not chop either, but cut each into dice, and mix. Put 2 teacups cream into a sauce-pan and boil; stir in 4 eggs, well beaten, until it becomes like thick corn=starch; put the sauce= pan into cold water and stir in |- bottle Durkee's salad dressing, stir- ring to keep it from curdling; add vinegar to taste. When cold, pour over the chicken and celery. Excellent. TONGUE SALAD. — Chop a nicely cooked tongue fine, then add chopped celery and lettuce and the whites of eggs. Use a mayon- naise dressing. VEAL SALAD — Boil tne veal until it is tender; let it become quite cold, cut it quite fine, and use as much chopped celery as veal. Mix, after chopping, and just before serving pour over it a rich may- onnaise dresssing. (When a large quantity of chicken salad has to be made for a party, half the meat may be of veal, boiled in the chicken broth after that is done, and no one will ever know the difference. ) SWEETBREAD SALAD— Cut cold, boiled sweetbreads into cubes; chill it in the refrigerator for 1 hour, then add celery, cut 212 SALADS fine, arrange it on lettuce leaves and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. CHEESE SALAD — Arrange lettuce in a salad bowl, sprinkle on grated cheese, and cover with a French dressing. CHEESE AND EGG SALAD — Put slices of hard boiled eggs in a dish, grate on nice cheese, add another layer of eggs, and so on alternately. Put a few capers and finely chopped pickles on top, pour a mayonnaise dressing over all and sprinkle grated cheese on top. Nice at picnics. EGG SALAD.^Put into a salad bowl the leaves of a head of let- tuce; slice 4 hard=boiled eggs and add; mince 12 capers and sprinkle over the eggs, and cover with either a French or mayonnaise dress- ing. Or (2) slice cold boiled eggs, pour over a salad dressing, and garnish with lettuce. FISH AND SHELLFISH SALADS. FISH SALAD. — Take any cooked fish which has become cold, remove skin and bones, and flake it or cut in pieces, and spread it on lettuce leaves. Cover with mayonnaise dressing. Finely picked sar- dines may be added if desired, and also some hard-boiled eggs. Sal- mon is the favorite fish for salads, but almost any other will do. The fish can be mixed with cabbage or celery instead of lettuce, if more convenient. CRAB SALAD. — Take the meat of boiled crab, chop it, and mix a mayonnaise sauce with it. Clean the shells, put in the mixture, and garnish with parsley or cresses and sliced lemon. LOBSTER SALAD. — It is better to use large lobsters, as there is less waste than with small ones. Cut up the meat, and pour on it oil and vinegar in the proportion of 1 tablespoon of oil to 3 of vine- gar, with pepper and salt, and let it stand in a cold place for 1 hour at least; this is called "marinating''^ it, and serves to season it. At serving time, drain it from the oil and vinegar not absorbed, put it on a bed of lettuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Garnish it with the claws of the lobster and with capers, pounded coral and parsley if you have them. It can be made without going through the marinating process, but we think that an improvement. OYSTER SALAD — Use the small oysters, and just let them come to boiling in their own liquor; skim and drain in a colander, then on a cloth. For a pint of oysters, add 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 2 of salad oil, with salt and pepper to taste; mix well, and set it in SALADS ' ■ 213 the ice-chest. Cut finely a pint of nice white celery, and mix with the oysters just before serving; arrange it on a salad dish, garnish with the white leaves of the celery, and pour over it a pint of mayon- naise dressing. SALMON SALAD — Put the meat of 1 can of salmon in a col- ander to drain; then carefully pick out any bones, skin, or unsightly bits. When well drained, put it in a bowl in the ice^chest until time to serve; make a mayonnaise dressing and keep that by itself in the ice=chest. Have ready the hearts of nice head-lettuce leaves in ice= cold water; just before serving put a heavy border of lettuce around the salad dish, cut the salmon finely, and place in the center, then pour the mayonnaise over the fish. Serve a few of the lettuce leaves with the salad to each person. The water from the lettuce must be thoroughly shaken oflP, or it will dilute the mayonnaise. Another way is to put 3 stalks of sliced celery into a salad bowl, add ^ lb. of canned salmon, arranging neatly. Use mayonnaise dressing, gar- nish and serve. SARDINE SALAD. — Drain the oil from a small box of sardines, laying them afterward on brown paper so that no trace may re- main of the oil in which they are preserved. Remove the skin and bones, and pour a little lemon juice over them. Lay them on a bed of lettuce, pour a plain French dressing over them, and garnish with 2 hard-boiled eggs which have been chopped fine. SHRIMP SALAD.— Take 1 can of shrimp, break them into 2 or 8 pieces each, add 2 sticks of celery, cut small, and 1 bunch of let- tuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Marinate the shrimps for 1 or 2 hours, after taking them from the can, if desired. FRUIT AND NUT SALADS. Note. — Combinations of oranges, pineapples, bananas and other fruits sweet- ened with sugar, are often erroneously called "fruit salads." Strictly speaking fruit salads are prepared with oil, and acid fruits, or those with a pronounced flavor, are the ones best adapted for salads. The combinations of fruits above referred to belong properly with desserts, for which they are intended, and in our chapter on "Desserts" (which see) we give a great variety of such dishes. AGUACATE SALAD — Pare the aguacate, cut it into thin rings add lettuce and sliced onion, if liked, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. AatrACATE is a fruit which comes from the West Indies, and is found in fruit stores dealing in foreign fruits. APPLE SALAD. — Take tart apples and slice them; chop young green onions, mix the two together, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. 214 SALADS BARBERRY SALAD — Slice cucumbers, mix them with barber- ries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) chop young onions, mix them with barberries and cover with a plain salad dressing CRANBERRY SALAD. — Mix cranberries with chopped young green onions, and cover with a good salad dressing. CURRANT SALAD — Take nice tender lettuce, mix it with cur- rants and cover with a dressing made of 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 salt- spoon of pepper, and 3 tablespoons of salad oil. It is wholesome and refreshing. GOOSEBERRY SALAD. — Chop young onions, mix them with gooseberries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) Sliced cucumbers can be mixed with gooseberries, and covered with plain salad dressing. GRAPE FRUIT SALAD — Peel the fruit, remove the bitter white membrane, slice it, and pour over it a mayonnaise dressing It makes a good salad. FRENCH FRUIT SALAD — Use 2 -oranges, 3 bananas, 24 large, firm, white grapes, 12 walnuts, 1 head lettuce and 1 cup mayonnaise. Peel the oranges, divide into lobes, cut each lobe into 3 pieces and remove the seeds. With a very sharp knife skin the grapes and seed them. Slice the bananas with a silver knife, and shell and halve the walnuts. Arrange the fruit on choice and delicate lettuce leaves, cover with 1 cup of mayonnaise dressing and serve ice cold. MELON SALAD. — Take ice cold muskmelons (have them on ice for 5 or 6 hours ) ; open them, scrape out the seeds, divide into crescents, cut off the rind and green part, leaving the fully ripe portion only, put these pieces in a bowl with bits of ice among them, pour on a French or mayonnaise dressing and serve. Watermelons which are lacking in sweetness may be served the same way. ORANGE SALAD — Peel the oranges, slice them crossways, take out the seeds, and cover with a dressing made in the proportion of 3 spoons of salad oil to 1 spoon lemon juice, and add salt and a dash of cayenne; flavor, if desired, with a little grated orange rind. Excel- lent with cold game, roast pork or poultry. LEMON SALAD — Make as directed for orange salad, but add a little lettuce, and sprigs of mint or tarragon, if you have it. SALADS 215 LIME SALAD. — Make the same as directed for orange and lemon salad, only use limes instead of the other fruits. NUT SALAD — -Mix together 1 qt. of shredded lettuce, and 2 cups chopped nuts; dress with a little mayonnaise dressing, arrange in fresh lettuce, and garnish with more mayonnaise. WALNUT SALAD. — Get the kernels as nearly whole as possible, and let them soak 2 hours in lemon juice; pick them out without draining, and serve on water-cress or lettuce, with French dressing. VEGETABLES. N abundance and variety of vegetables are essential to perfect health. They furnish the mineral matters, alkalies and acids in which meat is deficient, and most of the carbohy- drates needed by the system. The lack of fat in vegetables should be supplied by using butter, or some other form of fat, with them all. A moment's thought will show our readers that in arranging a dietary the object is to supply the lack of any element in one article of food, by using with it some other food containing the missing element. Although the foods in everysday use thus supplement each other, many people do not think of the principle involved. Why does butter go with bread? Because the gluten of the bread furnishes the albumenoid element needed by the body, while the starch supplies the carbohydrates, but bread it- self lacks fat, and the butter used supplies that. So meat and pota- toes go well together, the lean meat supplying the albumenoids, the potato the carbohydrates, and the fat or butter furnishes the fats, the 3 together thus supplying the body with the 3 great food ele- ments which it needs. Vegetables when taken as food are valuable not only for the direct nourish- ment which they afford to the system, but also because they impart to the blood certain constituents which are necessary to maintain its highest purity. This has been amply proved by the appearance of such blood diseases as scurvy, etc., in cir- cumstances where vegetable food was not procurable for any length of time. Few people rightly estimate the value of vegetables to the system. One of the chief benefits derived from eating them comes from the salts which they contain, while they also introduce into the system some water necessary for digestion and assimi- lation, and afford the benefit of variety in food. It is much to be regretted that by the method of cooking vegetables which commonly prevails in this country the greater part of their salts are dissolved out by the water in which they are cooked, and this water is thrown away, only the vegetable itself being eaten. There seems to be a common impression that the water in which many vegetables are boiled is poisonous, but this is a most erroneous idea. In this connection we quote from Mr. Mattieu Williams: "I must add a few words in advocacy of further adoption in this country of the French practice of us- ing as potage (for soups, etc.,) the water in which vegetables generally (excepting po- tatoes) have been boiled. When we boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve out of them a very large proportion of their saline constituents; salts which are absolutely necessary for the maintenance of health; salts without which we become victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago, neuralgia, gravel, and all the ills that hu- man flesh with a lithic acid diathesis is heir to; i.e., about the most painful series of all its inheritances." To which we may add the recommendation to save vegetable broth, and utilize it for soup, sauce, etc. A rich soup can be made from the water in which potatoes have been boiled (if ivithout their skins) by mashing 2 or 3, and adding a little thickening and seasoning and a little butter. The juices of other vegetables like cabbage, turnips, celery and most others, are palatable and work 216 VEGETABLES 217 well into soups. Onions are an exception; they should be used sparingly, as flavor- ing, for those who like them, but a dish of boiled onions, served with the water they are boiled in, causes distressing flatulence often. They can be parboiled, the water changed once, and then eaten by most people without unpleasant digestive disor- ders. All green vegetables are best when they are grown quickly, in which case they have less woody fibre. All green vegetables need to be eaten fresh. When fresh, vegetables will snap crisply. Peas picked in the early morning can be cooked the same day in about ^ the time needed if they are kept 1 or 2 days longer, and their flavor is much better. Ears of green corn that are just filled, will, if plung- ed into boiling water as soon as gathered, cook in 10 minutes, or perhaps less, and if kept 1 or 2 days twice as much time will be needed, and they will not then be as tender and fine flavored. Very few vegetables are roasted; they are generally boiled. Those which contain saccharine matter, such as carrots, beet=root, parsnips, etc., are best cooked by steam, as boiling water dissolves out a large quantity of their nutritious ingredients. Vegetables, however, which contain much starch, as a rule, are best boiled, as by boiling, the granules of the starch are ruptured and partially dis- solved, and any volatile oils which may be present are expelled, as well as the confined air. We elsewhere explain how much cooking adds to the digestibility of starch. All vegetables, with a few exceptions, should be put first into boiling water which contains salt in the proportion of an even tea- spoon to every 2 qts. of water; the exceptions are old, dry, and partly dried vegetables, such as peas, beans of all kinds, and wilted vege- tables ; the latter had better be thrown away if they do not become crisp after standing a few hours in cold water. How to Boil Vegetables. — While in boiling meat, the great point is not to have the water boil, but to have it simmer instead, the great point in boiling vegetables is not to let the boiling stop. Even if the boiling water could be raised above 212° the vegetable would be rather improved than injured thereby. Have plenty of water, espe- cially for greens of all kinds. Choose a sufficiently large kettle, and get it I full of boiling water in ample time; then the water will come to a boil more quickly when the vegetables are thrown in, for when the cold vegetables are first put in they will check the boiling. The quicker vegetables boil the greener they will be, and remember that freshly gathered vegetables do not require as long boiling as those which have been long kept. Experience will best tell you when the vegetables are sufficiently cooked. The rule should be to cook them until they are soft and tender, but no longer, because the starch cells 218 VEGETABLES having then burst, they will begin to absorb water, and the vege- table will become soggy, and loose flavor as well. If not sufficiently done they are indigestible, and if left too long they become soggy. As soon as they are done, take them out and serve them. Remember then, that there is a right and a wrong way to boil vegetables. The essentials of the right way are: (1) to jDut them into boiling water, which is slightly salted; (2) hoy e plenty of it; (3) do not let the boiling stop until they are done; (4) take them out as soon as they are done. The wrong way is the opposite of this — it is to use little water, let it simmer without really boiling, and to leave the vegetables in too long. If you will try the 2 methods once, the difference in the results and the superiority of the first method will be apparent. Asparagus, cauliflower and peas should boil, but the water should not bubble, as that tosses them around and breaks them. Time to boil — The age of the vegetable and the time it has been gathered affects the time needed to boil it, so that it is impossible to give the exact time needed to boil different vegetables. When old and wilted, more time is needed than when young and fresh. The best rule is to test them by piercing them with a fork, watch them closely, and cook until they are soft and tender, but no longer. The Peinciples Involved in Boiling Vegetables. — These are not generally understood. Each minute granule of starch, in its original state, is surrounded by a thin sheath of cellulose, much like the shell on a chestnut; this cellulose sheath is nearly insoluble in the digestive fluids, so that they cannot get at the starch inside. In boiling, the starch swells and bursts this sheath; the starch thus liberated is readily attacked by the digestive fluids, which turn it into sugar, and then it is as- similated by the system. The object therefore, in boiling any form of starch is merely to burst these cells, and that is best done by having the water as hot as possible, and by keeping it boiling actively as long as the article is in it. As soon as the starch cells burst, however, the vegetable should be taken out, as, if it is left in longer, the starch will absorb water and deteriorate. When starch is improper- ly cooked its digestion is very difficult and much waste is caused the system, which is quite a loss even to one in good health; but for invalids it is particularly im- portant that the starch should be suitably cooked so as to be easily digesteS. The difference in the digestibility of different forms of uncooked starch is caused by the fact that the cellulose coating in some forms of starch is tougher than in others. When properly cooked, so that its cellulose sheath is burst open, all forms of starch are about equally digestible. In baking potatoes the heat of the oven causes the starch granules to swell and burst their sheaths, much as a chestnut or a grain of popcorn bursts open when roasted, thus liberating the starch. Overcoming the Odor of Boiling. — Various plans have been devised to mitigate the unpleasant odor caused by many vegetables while cooking. (1) Wrap a piece of bread about the size of a lemon in a cloth, and drop it in the kettle at the start; it will absorb the odor. (2) A lump of charcoal treated in the same way will absorb the odor. (3) Fold a towel to 3 or 4 thicknesses and lay over the kettle. (4) VEGETABLES 219 A piece of red pepper, ^ inch in diameter, dropped in at the start, is used by some cooks. The essential oils are dissolved out of the veg- etable while cooking, and from this oil the odor comes. If the water is changed once or twice while the vegetable is cooking, it will be an advantage, but be sure the fresh water is boiling hot when put in. Changing the water while cooking also gets rid of some unwholesome sulphuric gases given out by cabbage and onion. Effect of Different Waters. — Many cooks do not understand the dif- ferent effects produced by hard and soft water; peas and beans espe- cially should be cooked in soft water if possible to obtain it (see "Rain Water Cisterns"), as hard water containing lime and gypsum harden vegetable casein, making them less digestible. With some vegetables, soft water extracts most of their flavor and salts; but the addition of a little salt partially remedies this. Hints. — Be very careful to wash vegetables thoroughly, and exam- ine them for insects. Spinach should be allowed to float on water in a deep vessel and then lifted out with the hand and placed in deep water in another vessel, in order to free it from sand. Any vegetables which are peeled should be thrown into cold water until wanted for cooking, to prevent their turning color. When possible, it is much better to boil the different vegetables by themselves; also, when such vegetables as cabbage, carrots, beets, onions, potatoes, parsnips or turnips are boiled with meat, the flavor of both the meat and the vegetable is injured. Not only this, but it is also better to store vegetables separately. Certainly the strong scent- ed vegetables, like onions, leeks and cabbage, should be kept apart, for delicate vegetables will be spoiled in a short time, if near the strongly scented ones. Vegetables are much icer boiled in slightly salted water, and then, when seasoned with butter, they are usually salted sufficiently for most persons; the water being salted reaches a higher temperature before boiling, and secures better cookery of the vegetables. It is important that all vegetables should go to the table as hot as possible, and 2 or 3 two-qt. tin basins are good to keep them in until ready to put them on the table; or they may, if more conven- ient, be kept in the kettles they were boiled in. Have the vege- table dishes (that will not bear standing on the bg,ck of the range to keep hot) standing ready on a table with hot water in them. For common use, heavy white nappies are good for dishing up vegetables, as they will bear standing on the back of the range, or in the edge of the oven, with the door open. In dishing up vegetables, drain them thoroughly from the water. 220 VEGETABLES Vegetables which contain much sugar, like beets, turnips squash, pumpkins, etc., especially if they are not of the best quality, are improved by the addition of a little sugar — a fact overlooked by many cooks. Boiling deprives them of part of their sweetness, so add a little. Vegetables like lettuce and cabbage, which contain potash salts, are best eaten with a mild acid, like vinegar. It is usual to serve some condiment, like vinegar, salt, oil or pepper, with vegetables which are eaten raw, and which may therefore ferment in the stom- ach. When, by reason of long keeping, the freshness of salads, greens, roots, etc., has been somewhat lost, it may be restored by putting the stems and I'oots in cold fresh water for 1 or 2 hours before dressing them, but the leaves should not be immersed, as that injures them. In winter, or after long keeping, tuberous vegetables like carrots, turnips, potatoes, etc., become wilted, and their flavor impaired; after peeling and slicing, let them stand in cold water for several hours before cooking them, and it will restore their freshness. To shell beans easily, pour upon the pods a quantity of scald- ing water, and the beans will slip out very readily. In boiling suet dumplings, to be served with meat, like a vegeta- ble, put a plate at the bottom of the kettle, as, M^ien first put in, they will sink, and sometimes stick at the bottom of the kettle and burn When they swell with boiling, they get light and float. Puddings are always boiled in a cloth. ARTICHOKES. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES — Wash the roots thoroughly, scrape off the skin, cut off 1 end flat, and leave the other pointed. Boil until soft, in water containing a little salt, and a few drops of vinegar. Cook until soft, but do not leave longer, or they will be- come hard again. Take them up carefully, put them in the vegeta- ble dish, and pour over them scalded cream, or serve with a white sauce. They can also be chopped coarsely and served as a salad, with a salad dressing. Tiine to boil about, 20 minutes. GLOBE ARTICHOKES — Cut off the outside leaves, trim away the lower ones, and boil in salted water containing a few drops of vinegar; boil about 1 hour, drain, take out the choke, and serve with drawn butter poured over them. FRENCH ARTICHOKES, FRIED— Wash and trim the arti- choke heads, and cut them into thin slices; place in cold water with a little salt and vinegar added; this should be done 15 or 20 minutes VEGETABLES 221 before frying them. Drain, and wipe them dry; make a batter with 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of salad oil, and 2 tablespoons of flour, seasoned with salt and pepper; mix the sliced artichoke thoroughly with the batter, then fry in hot fat, being careful that the artichoke is cooked through as well as browned. CANNED ARTICHOKES should be placed in ice=cold water for 15 minutes before serving them. The dressing to accomx)any them is made by mixing 2 large spoons of vinegar with 1 of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and 8 spoons of good salad, oil. Aktiohokes. — There are two vegetables called by this name, both belonging to the order Compositce. The Jerusalem artichoke, {Helianthus tuberosus) is said to be a native of Brazil, but has long been naturalized in this country. Its name is a corruption of the Italian girasole (sunflower). The flowers are like the common sunflower, only smaller, and the roots, spmething like potatoes in shape and size, are cooked as a vegetable, and sometimes used for pickles. This plant is perren- nial, and when once planted in a rich soil can be dug early every spring; the small roots left in the ground will keep the crop growing year after year. The globe, or French artichoke, so called [Cynara Scols- mus) is a native of Asia, but is naturalized in this country. The flowerbuds and upper part of the stalks are used for a vegetable at table, and are cultivated from suckers placed in rows 3 feet apart. Artichokes contain 80^ of water; 2 of albumenoids; 16% carbohydrates; 0.5^ fats; 1% mineral mat- ters. The Cakdoon {Cynara Sardimculus) is a native of south- ern Europe, and much resembles the artichoke. It has pur- ple flowers, and is grown, blanched and eaten like celery, ASPARAGUS. A LA FRANCAISE.— Wash and boil the asparagus until tender — about 15 to 25 minutes; drain them, cut off the heads and about 2 inches of the white part of the stalks; mince them with a knife, and mix them with a small onion cut finely; add the yolk of an egg well beaten, with salt and pepper to taste; make it hot in a stew=pan, and dish it up on a platter, with nicely browned, buttered toast. BUTTERED ASPARAGUS.— Pour boiling water over a bunch of asparagus, then untie the bundle and lay it in a large frying=pan; cover with boiling water, sprinkle on a very little salt, cover, and cook 20 or 30 minutes — do not cook until the heads break off. When done, pour off the water, lift the pieces carefully by the hard end of the stem, lay them in a flat vegetable dish, place bits of butter on the asparagus, set in the oven until the butter is melted, and send to the table. CREAMED ASPARAGUS.— Wash and cut asparagus in inch pieces until the hard X3art of the stem is reached, stew 15 minutes in slightly salted water; then drain in a colander. Make a rich cream sauce and pour over. Or use drawn butter. 222 VEGETABLES STEAMED ASPARAGUS.— There is another method of boiling asparagus, rarely practiced by American cooks. It is to take the stouter varieties, cut them of exactly equal lengths, and stand them on end in a deep sauce=pan, with the heads projecting about 2 inches out of the water; then cook 30 to 40 minutes. By this plan at least ^ more of the stalk will be rendered delicious, while the head will be properly cooked by the steam. Then season, and serve. This is especially adapted to' the " giant " and stouter varieties. Asparagus is a native of -Europe, and is sometimes vulgarly called sparrow- grass. It is wholesome, but not very nutritious, and has been used in medicine, being a diuretic, and aperient. The cellular tissue contains a substance similar to sago. Its j aice composed of a peculiar crystallizable principle called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid and some salts. To avoid getting the woody white part, which is not made tender by boiling, asparagus when gathered can be snapped off, instead of cutting it, BEANS. SHELLED. — Shell, wash and boil until tender, adding salt after they have boiled about 10 minutes. If possible, always cook them in soft water. They should boil at least an hour. Season with salt and butter. Add hot cream to Lima or any white beans. FRENCH BEANS. — Soak them over night, then parboil them until the skins loosen, change the water, and when they are cool, rub off the skins; put them back in the pot with fresh water to just cover them, and boil until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and bits of butter. Set the dish in the oven to get hot; then send to the table. Time to boil if very young 10 to 12 minutes; if older 15 to 20 minutes. STRING BEANS. — The bean pods should be tender enough to snap off short when bent. Pull off the string on each side, and break in pieces f inch long. Boil in slightly salted water. A few thin slices of salt pork can be put in or not, as desired. It takes a full hour to cook them well, and may take 3 with some varieties. Drain, and season with butter and pepper or butter and cream, and a little more salt if needed. It is a good plan to change the water once while they are boiling, as that gets rid of part of an unwholesome gas which they yield in boiling. DELICIOUS BAKED BEANS.— Take about 3 pints of the small white beans, wash, and then soak them over night. Do not boil, but put at once in the baking dish and add a piece of salt j)ork that has been scalded, or if beef is preferred, use a piece of the brisket. Add salt, and a little pepper, and 2 or 3 tablespoons of molasses. ' Place in the oven, with plenty of water to cover, early in the morning, and let VEGETABLES 223 cook all day. Do not allow them to cook dry. A teaspoon of mustard is sometimes added with the molasses; it adds to both the flavor and wholesomeness of the beans when done. NEW ENGLAND BAKED BEANS — Pick over and wash, 1 pint of beans, put them into 2 quarts of cold water and let them stand over night. The following morning drain off all the water, and put them into an earthen bean pot — which comes for this purpose — with 2 tablespoons of molasses, a teaspoon of salt, a little pepper, half a pound salt pork — quite fat — and fill the pot up with boiling water and bake from 8 to 10 hours in a good steady oven; keep the pot well filled with water, till 2 hours before serving, and then allow it to simmer away one=half at least. You will find them delicious if di- rections are strictly followed. Beans are supposed to be a native of the East, particu- larly of Egypt, but have been known in Europe from time immemorial, having, in all probability, been introduced by the Romans. The conamon dwarf kidney bean, erroneously called the French bean, is a tender annual, a native of India, and was introduced into Enrope in 1597, or perhaps earlier. AH varieties of the bean are wholesome and nutritious, but are not suitable to persons with delicate stomachs or of sed- entary habits. They are best eaten with fatty or starchy foods, like bacon or rice. If bean flour was to be had as wheat flour is, a much larger proportion of the nutrient parts of beans could bs assimilated, experiment having shown that 91^ of bean flour was digested, and only 4:0% of feench beans. the nutritive parts were assimilated as ordinarily prepared. If beans are well cooked and passed through a sieve, it will divest them of their indigestible skins, or cellulose. The Pulses, which include lentils, beans and peas, are among the most nourishing of foods. Owing to the large amount of nitrogenous matter which they contain, they should be accompanied, when eaten, with articles in which fat and starch abound. The nutritive value of these articles is somewhat deteriorated by the fact that they are rather difficult of digestion. They sometimes occasion flatulence, and have a stimulating, heating effect on the system. They should never be eaten without being thoroughly cooked. BEETS. BOILED. — These should be washed clean, and the tops and tips cut closely, but do not peel them nor prick the skin, as the juice will then escape and injure both the color and flavor. Cook until tender in boiling water Young beets will cook in about an hour; fully grown ones take 2 to 4 hours; the very largest are not suitable for the table, as they are apt to be tough and tasteless. When done, put them in cold water and rub off the rind; then slice, put in a vegetable dish, and cover with vinegar; or serve with a butter or white sauce. For a "boiled dinner'' cook them by themselves; they are peeled after cooking, cut in slices, and served without dressing. They are also cut in fancy pieces and used to garnish various dishes. They are also used for salads mixed with other vegetables. 224 VEGETABLES CREAMED BEETS — First boil in unsalted water until ten- der; rub off the skins with a wet towel, and serve at once in hot cream sauce, which can be made while they are boiling. (See " Cream Sauce.") BEET GREENS — Beet greens are boiled whole, the beets with the tops, while they are young. Put into slightly salted boiling water, and boil for an hour. When the little beets are done, the tops are done also. Sometimes thin slices of salt pork are cooked with them. When done, take up into a colander and drain well, cut through several times with a knife, so that they can be served with a spoon, and send to the table in a vegetable dish. They are usually eaten with vinegar. If no pork is boiled with them, they can. be seasoned with a little butter, and a very little vinegar, about a table- spoon to a medium^sized vegetable dish. They can be served hot or cold. The beet root is a native of the shores of the Mediterranean. It is wholesome and nutritious, and is chiefly characterized by the large amount of starch, sugar, and alkaline salts which it contains. BKUSSELS SPROUTS. BOILED. — Pick off all dead or discolored leaves, and soak in cold salted water 1 hour before cooking; then put them in boiling water containing a little salt and soda, the latter to preserve their green color; leave the kettle uncovered, and boil briskly until tender. Drain and send to the table at once, as they cool quickly. Serve with melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce. Time to boil, 10 to 15 minutes. r SAUTED. — Take 1 qt. of sprouts, remove loose, hanging leaves, and soak \ hour in cold water; then wash and boil \ hour in 2 qtS; of water, adding 1 teaspoon of salt, after the first 10 minutes; then drain off all the water, and add 3 tablespoons of butter, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of flour, \ teaspoon of pepper, and 1 teaspoon of salt; shake the pan over the fire 3 or 4 minutes, or until the sprouts are slightly colored. Serve at once in a warm dish. Brussels Sprouts is a variety of the cabbage, and is so named because the seed was obtained from Belgium in former bkussels spbouts times. It grows from 3 to 5 feet in height, the stalk terminat- ing in a large,-cabbage4ike head, and the stem being covered with the sprouts. CABBAGE. BAKED. — Boil a firm white cabbage for 15 minutes, changing the water once; drain and set aside until cold; then chop finely, and VEGETABLES 225 add 2 beaten eggs, butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to taste; stir all together and bake in a buttered pudding-dish until brown. This is economical, good and nourishing. It is sometimes covered with bread crumbs, moistened with white sauce, and then baked. Time to bake, about ^ hour. BOILED CABBAGE. — Cut it in quarters, soak 30 minutes in salted water; then boil rapidly, uncovered, until tender, hut no longer, in slightly salted water; push it down with a spoon as it rises above the water; it should boil in about 25 to 30 minutes. When done, take it up, drain, put it in a vegetable dish, and put bits of butter over it with a little salt. Remember that the secret of boiling cabbage is to boil it rapidly, uncovered, and in plenty of water, and boil until tender, hut no longer. If boiled longer it becomes wilted, yellow, and loses flavor. Try cabbage thus cooked and see how much better it is than when cooked in the old way. If the water it is boiled in is not very soft, add to each 4 quarts of water 1 saltspoon of baking soda, but no more. FRIED CABBAGE.— Chop cold white cabbage quite fine; stir in some melted butter to taste, pepper and salt, and four tablespoons of milk or cream; after it is heated through add 1 or 2 well==beaten eggs, according to quantity of cabbage; then turn the mixture into a well-buttered spider, and fry about 5 minutes, or until a light brown on the under side. Place a hot dish over the pan, which must be reversed when turned out to serve. CABBAGE AND MILK.— Cut the cabbage into very fine slices, take out the coarser veins carefully; put it in a tin sauce-pan, over a slow fire, add milk enough to cover entirely, and simmer very slowly 2 hours. Grate some nutmeg over it before serving, and add a good sized lump of butter. Thus cooked its coarseness disappears, and it almost equals cauliflower. Very few people know how good it is thus prepared. COLCANNON. — Take equal parts of cold cabbage and cold pota- toes; cut all together well with a knife; fry salt pork, and when the pork is crisp, put the cabbage and potato into the fat; season with pepper, and a little more salt, if needed; cover closely with a plate and let it steam in the pan for \ hour. Do not stir it until you take it up, then stir all together, and serve hot, with the pieces of crisp pork around the edge of the platter. A little onion may be added to this, if liked. 15 226 VEGETABLES A Hint. — The young white leaves of a white=hearted cabbage chopped fine, are a fairly good substitute for lettuce when the latter is scarce. The botanical order, CrucifercB, is a most important one, in furnishing various nitrogenous, and therefore highly nutritious dishes for our use; cabbage, cale, cau- liflower, brocoli, Brussels sprouts, turnips, all belong to this order. For salads and relishes we have cresses, pepper=grass, scurvy=grass, wild pepper=root, rad- ishes, horseradish and cardamine. Cabbage contains 90% of water, and is more wholesome than nourishing. Its tendency is to purify the blood, and it is partic- ularly serviceable in cases of skin disease, but should be avoided by all who are subject to flatulence and diarrhea. It is long in digesting, and is best fitted to robust and active persons. Cabbage eaten raw as a salad is more wholesome than when cooked. Cabbage and cauliflower contain more gluten than other vegeta- bles, and for that reason they should be eaten with fatty foods. A mild acid, like vinegar, aids their digestion. CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI. BOILED. — Cut cauliflower where it begins to branch, place it, head down, in cold salted water for an hour; this will take out hidden insects if there are any; rinse it up and down several times. Put in a kettle with enough slightly salted boiling water to cover, and boil till tender — time 15 to 25 minutes according to size. Do not let the water bubble and boil so vio- lently as to make the cauliflower jump about, as that will break it. It is sometimes tied in a muslin bag; if not, skim the water. When done, put it in a colan- der to drain well, and at the same time keep it hot. Then cut it coarsely with a knife, put it in a vegetable dish, put a few lumps of butter over it, and send to the table. Or instead of the butter pour over either a bechamel, Hollandaise or cream sauce. It is used also for garnishing chicken or sweetbreads, or for salads. ESCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER.— Boil as directed above. Then put in a baking=dish, pour over a thick drawn butter sauce, sprinkle with bread crumbs, put in the oven and bake until brown — about 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle on grated cheese, also, before baking, if desired, BROCOLI. — This, both white and purple, is only a variety of the cauliflower, and is cooked in the same ways. Caulifowee is only a form of the wild cabbage in its cultivated state. Cauli- flower has been known since the times of the Greeks and Romans. It is a whole- some, but not particularly nourishing, article of food; it is difiicult of digestion, and ought to be avoided by those who have delicate stomachs, but, on the whole, it is less indigestible and richer in fleshsformers than cabbage. OAUIilFIiOWEE. VEGETABLES 227 CARROTS. BOILED. — Wash, scrape, not pare, cut into strips, barely cover with boiling water, and as soon as they begin to boil put in a little butter; as soon as tender add some minced parsley and serve. They need to boil longer than most vegetables. Time, 1 hour or more according to age. They are often boiled with corned beef. Another way is to cut lengthwise, boil until soft and slice thin. Put in sauce^pan with 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 cup of milk. Season with salt, pepper and a little sugar; stew 15 min- ^^^^B^^^ utes and serve. CARROTS WITH CREAM.— Cut the carrots in thin slices; boil in water until almost tender; then pour the water off and add butter; fry them a little; then add a few spoons of cream; season with salt and pepper and serve very hot. OABBOTS. Carrots grow in all parts of the globe. They are one of the most important vegetables used in domestic cookery, and their flavor renders them valuable in soups, stews and sauces, but they are not particularly nourishing as it requires 2 lbs. of carrots to produce 1 oz. of the nitrogenous substance of muscle and flesh. They contain pectine (a gelatinous substance) instead of starch, and hence soups containing them become gelatinous when cold. For 1 part of flesh=formers they contain 10 of heat=givers. CELERY. Many people throw away the outside green stalks of celery, not knowing that it makes a very savory dish when stewed. Take all the fine white stalks, wash well and serve; the remainder break into short pieces, pulling off all the stringy outside. Put the pieces in a stew=pan, cover well with boiling water, and boil ^ hour. Make a cream or drawn butter sauce, pour it over the celery, and serve. BAKED CELERY. — Take a qt. of veal stock, and, having par- boiled a proper amount of the stalks, put them into a baking=dish. Rub together 2 spoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour, smoothly, then beat in the yolks of 3 eggs, and stir these into the veal broth, and pour it over the celery. Lastly, cover the top with finely grated bread crumbs, and then with grated cheese. Bake 10 minutes in a quick oven. This is one of the most delicious forms in which celery can be put upon the table. FRIED CELERY — After cutting it into inch lengths, and boil- ing till tender in slightly salted water, dip the pieces in fritter batter and fry in smoking hot fat. Garnish with parsley, and serve with 228 VEGETABLES tomato sauce. Or sprinkle the pieces with salt and nutmeg; then egg and bread= crumb them and fry the same way; drain on a sieve and serve on a napkin. Celery grows wild nearly all over Europe, growing chiefly in ditches and marshes near the sea, and when wild is called Smallage. Smallage was first cultivated by Italian gardeners and the result of their labors was the production of two plants, Celery and Celeriac. The latter variety (often, also, called Ger- man or knob celery) is turnip=shaped, and large, and is exten- sively used by the Germans, who prefer it to the variety we commonly use. In its raw state, it is not suited to persons of weak stomachs, but is more easily digested when cooked. Celery has medicinal properties, and is used as a corrector of bilious conditions, and as a tonic for the nervous system. It contains about 5)3 per cent, of water, 1 of albumen, 2 of sugar, 1 of mineral matter, and 2 of starch, etc. celekY. COKN. BOILED — Green corn when in proper condition for boiling should be well filled out, but still in the milk, so that it will exude freely when pressed with the nail. It should be put when freshly gathered into slightly salted boiling water, and as soon as its milk thickens, and the raw taste is gone, it should be taken up, as longer cooking hardens it and injures its flavor. Corn for fritters, pud- dings, etc., may be a trifle older, but never out of the milk. To cut corn from the cob the best way is to stand it on the small end, and with a sharp knife cut off about half the kernel; tlien with the back of the knife press and scrape out the remainder with a downward stroke. If scraped with the sharp edge it will carry many of the hulls with it, and they are not wanted. This is the best method of cutting off corn for canning or any purpose. DRIED CORN. — Select corn that is right for boiling, and boil 5 minutes in slightly salted water; then cut and scrape from the cob as above, and dry in the oven in shallow pans or on plates. Pack in paper bags, and hang in a dry place or it will mold. It sours easily, and the drying process should not be long. To use it, soak over night, and then cook like green corn. Season with butter, cream, pepper and salt to taste, and serve. BAKED CORN. — Take 48 full ears of sweet corn, cut and scrape from the ears as above, and then pound in a mortar; add (according to the juiciness of the corn) 3 or 4 cups of milk, 4 well beaten eggs, ^ teacup butter, the same of flour rubbed fine in a little milk, 1 tablespoon of sugar, and salt to taste. Pour into a well greased earthen dish, bake 2 hours till browned on top, and place on the table hot. Eat with plenty of fresh butter. VEGETABLES 229 CORN CHOWDER.— Take 1 can of corn, or the same amount of green corn cut from the cob, 2 oz. pork fried brown and chopped, 6 potatoes sliced thin, If quarts water; cook until the potatoes are done — about 25 minutes; then add 2 cups milk, and butter and salt to taste. ESCALLOPED CORN. — Cut corn from the cob, spread a layer in a basin, season, put on a layer of sliced tomatoes, season, and so on with alternate layers, -seasoning each layer; then fill the dish with rich milk in which a little soda is dissolved, and bake 1 hour. FRIED CORN — Select roasting ears, cut the corn from the cob, add salt and pepper, put it in a large pie4in containing hot butter, set where it will cook slowly, and fry, stirring it often. If it should stick to the pan add a very little water, but not otherwise, CORN OYSTERS.— Cut the corn from 6 ears, ^dd to it 1 well beaten egg, 1 tablespoon of sweet milk, a little salt, and then flour enough to make a pretty stiff batter; drop a spoonful at a time into smoking hot fat, and fry a delicate brown. GREEN CORN PUDDINQ.-Take the pulp from 2 doz. ears of corn, If quarts of new milk, 2 crackers rolled fine, 3 eggs, 2 teacups sugar, and a little salt. Mix the crackers with the milk, then put in the corn and other ingredients; bake slowly 2-| hours. Serve warm with butter and pepper. CORN SOUFFLE. — Take 2 cups of canned corn, 2 cups of milk, 2 eggs, salt to taste. Beat the eggs until very light; add the other ingredients; put the mixture in a buttered pudding=dish, and bake about 40 minutes. STEWED CORN. — Cut young corn from the ear, put it in a basin, cover it with milk, and cook ^ hour, stirring it frequently; then season to taste, with butter, pepper and salt, add some rich cream in which a little corn=starch is stirred, and serve. SUCCOTASH — Boil or steam the corn and cut it from the cob; allow 2 cups corn for 1 cup beans. Any good, fresh shelled beans may be used; they should be boiled by themselves, in slightly salted water, until they begin to break; then drain them in the colander, mix them with the corn, and season to taste, with cream, butter, pepper and salt. Indian corn is a native of America, where it was cultivated by the aborigines before the discovery of America by Columbus. There are many varieties of the plant, and the grains vary in color, but the yellow is the most common. Although ti is deficient in gluten it is richer than other grains in oily and fatty matter; but 230 VEGETABLES the constituent elements of the different varieties vary a good deal. It is highly nutritions, and rivals rice and sugar cane in its importance to the human family. It is a very important article of consumption alike for man and beast. Owing to its lack of gluten it is not sufficiently sticky to hold together well, and so does not make good bread. Corn=meal is not suitable for an exclusive diet, but it makes a very valuable addition to our food resources, and is more fattening than wheat flour. CUCUMBEKS. These are usually served raw, cut in slices, and served with pepper, salt and vinegar, and onions are sometimes added. Three or 4 hours before serving they should be peeled, sliced and placed in a large bowl of water to stand 1 or 2 hours; then the water should be poured off, and fresh, cold water added, and just before sending to the table, the water should be changed again. Serve in salad dishes, and send around with them, salt, black pepper, vinegar and oil, to be added by each person as preferred. Thus served, they are not so likely to prove indigestible as when served, as they sometimes are, by slicing wilted cucumbers a few minutes before a meal, sending to the table in the first water they are placed in, and strong vinegar and salt added to that, which causes them to wilt still more; served in the latter way, it is no wonder that people say, " I cannot eat cucumbers — they always distress me." BOILED — After paring the cucumbers, and slicing about ^ inch thick, boil them about 12 minutes in slightly salted water, con- taining a little vinegar. Serve with drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce. FRIED CUCUMBERS.— Peel and slice them, and soak in cold water an hour; this takes out the gummy qualities of the plant; then drain and dry the slices on a cloth; dip the pieces in egg, then in flour, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. STEWED CUCUMBERS.^Peel and slice fresh young cucum- bers, and soak them an hour in cold water; then put them in a stew=pan with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil until soft — about ^ hour; then take off the cover, to let them dry down a little, dredge in a little flour, to thicken the water they were stewed in, add a piece of butter, with seasoning of salt and pepper. Sweet cream can be used instead of butter, if one has it, and it is much better. The cucumber is a native of Asia, and it has been cultivated from very early times. It is not very nutritious, and, generally speaking, it is not suited to weak stomachs, as it is indigestible and disagrees with naany when eaten raw, but when stewed, it is light and wholesome. It contains about 96 per cent, of water, some grape sugar, and a little volatile flavoring matter. VEGETABLES 231 EGG PLANT. BAKED. — Pare, slice and boil till tender, in slightly salted water; then drain, mash, and add bread crumbs soaked in milk, and season with salt, pepper, a little butter and minced parsley; beat together, put into a buttered baking^dish, sprinkle bread crumbs on top, and bake a nice brown. Time, altogether, about 1\ hours. FRIED — Cut in slices without paring, sprinkle on salt, pile them up, and weight them with a flat=iron or other weight; let stand about an hour and it will squeeze out much of their bitter flavor; rinse them off in cold water, drain, dip in cracker or bread crumbs, then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again, and fry brown in a fry- ing-pan. They are sometimes dipped in batter and then fried. Egg Plant belongs to the order Solanaceoe, which includes also tobacco and potatoes. All varieties of this order contain a bitter, more or less poisonous juice. The egg plant is indigenous to the East Indies. There are several varietes; one of which is the Dead Sea apple. ENDIVE. STEWED ENDIVE — Wash and free 6 heads of endive thor- oughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain until there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a stew=pan with 1 pint of broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, it may be ascer- tained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour, and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice; let the sauce boil up, and serve. Time to boil, 10 to 15 minutes. Endive is said to be a native of China and Japan. It has long been cultivated as a garden vegetable, and used for salads and soups. It is slightly narcotic, and has a bitter taste, on account of which some people dislike it very much while those who like it call it a fine bitter. GREENS. Dandelions are most commonly used for greens, either alone or mixed with other herbs, as plantain, young milk=weeds, scurvy-grass, beet4ops, horseradish tops, and the young shoots of j)oke or gorget; the roots of the latter plant are a violent cathartic, and should never be used. Wash and examine all herbs used for greens, and then boil them till tender in slightly salted water. A little baking soda added to the water in which the greens are cooked will preserve 232 VEGETABLES their color, and it also softens the cellulose. Salt pork is commonly boiled with them, but they are rather more wholesome boiled with- out it. When done, drain them in a colander, and while draining cut them through and through in every way, to facilitate serving them; then put them on a platter, season with butter and salt, and send vinegar around with them. If salt pork is boiled with them, slice it, and use it to garnish the greens instead of the butter. Greens are usually eaten in the spring, and are chiefly valuable for their alkaline salts and water. KOHLRABI. Peel, cut it in two, and then slice thin; put into salted water, parboil, and then drain; then stew it in some weak broth; when nearly done, shred some of the green leaves growing at the top, and add them; they will tinge it a light green. When tender, drain out the kohlrabi. Make a bechamel sauce with the liquid in which it is cooked, pour it over the vegetable, let it get hot, and serve. Time, 15 to 25 minutes. Kohlrabi is a cultivated variety of the cabbage, distinguished by the swelling in a globular form of that part of the stem which is just above the ground. This protuberance is the part used, its uses being similar to the turnip. It is only fit to use when young, being then wholesome, nutritious and palatable; later it contains much indigestible fibrous matter. It is very valuable, also, as food for cattle. LETTUCE. If lettuce has become wilted in the market, let it stand with the stems in a bowl of cold water for several hours before using, to become crisp again. Jnst before serving, wash carefully, then shake off the water, tear it in small pieces, as it is -more convenient to serve in that way. It should never be cut with a knife. Pile it in a glass dish, and serve on salad dishes, or small plates. Vinegar and sugar is sometimes used for a dressing, or oil and vinegar, salt alone, French salad dressing, or mayonnaise if preferred. It is deli- cious served with lemon juice, using sugar also if liked. FRIED LETTUCE — Chop lettuce and the tops of 2 onions fine, add 2 well=beaten eggs, put a little salad oil or butter into a frying-pan, and pour in the mixture well beaten; cover, stir up when well heated, and serve with vinegar or lemon juice, or without either, according to taste. STEAMED LETTUCE.— Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce= pan, add vinegar and 1 well beaten egg', stir well together, and add the leaves from 2 large heads of lettuce, cover, and let it steam until the lettuce is well wilted; serve hot. ,€f'/"' "■■■ 1 i ■• ^-^'^^'^C""'''"'^f ""' i • 2 6 '' /"- 4- 1 ■ i 1 1 9 1 _ _ . . _^J A FEW EDIBLE MUSHROOMS. VEGETABLES 238 Lettuce is supposed to be a native of the East Indies, but it has been cultiva- ted in Europe from very early times. It is wholesome and has a particularly pleasant taste. It is said to have a sedative action on the nervous system, which allays pain and induces sleep. Those who have no tendency to apoplexy, and who are troubled with wakefulness may be recommended to eat lettuce at supper. It contains little nutriment, being 96^ water. It contains about 1% of mineral mat- ters (especially nitre), which are useful. MACAKONI, SPAGHETTI AND VEKMICELLI. BOILING MACARONI — Do not wash macaroni, as that extracts part of its nutrients. After breaking it into suitable lengths put it into plenty of boiling water, slightly salted, and boil actively until it is done; most cook books say to boil it 15 to 20 minutes, but you will find it better if you boil it f to | hour, but do not boil it too long or it will lose its nutritive qualities; then drain in a colander, pour on cold water, which will prevent its sticking, then spread the strips beside each other and cut them all at once into pieces about an inch long, which is better than leaving them in unweildy lengths. BAKED MACARONI — Boil and prepare as above directed; then butter a baking=dish, put in the macaroni, cover with bread crumbs, pour a little melted butter on top, bake in a moderate oven 5 min- utes, and serve. FRIED MACARONI. — Boil the macaroni as above, and grate cheese. Take the cold macaroni, make it into little balls with the cheese, egg and bread=crumb them, and fry in smoking hot fat to a rich brown. MACARONI WITH CHEESE.— Boil ^ lb. and prepare as above directed; then make a sauce with 1^ cups hot milk, and 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour, and salt to taste. Then in the bottom of the baking=dish put a layer of grated cheese, iDut on a layer of maca- roni, and cover with the sauce; then other layers of cheese, macaroni and sauce; pnt fine bread crumbs on top, dot v/ith bits of butter and a little grated cheese, and bake until the top is browned. Time, about 20 minutes. MACARONI WITH MILK SAUCE — Boil and prepare the macaroni as above; make a sauce with 1 cup milk thickened with a dessertspoon of butter and flour rubbed together, and a little salt; after it has boiled a few moments drop in the macaroni, and in 5 minutes, dish up and serve. SPAGHETTI. — Boil this the same as macaroni, only it does not need to cook quite as long, and drain and pour on cold water the same. Out it or not as you prefer. It can be treated otherwise much the same as macaroni. Vermicelli is treated the same as spaghetti. 234 VEGETABLES Macaeoni is a particular form of wheaten flour. It is made by selecting th finest flour, making it into a paste with water, then pressing it through holes o molds in a metal plate, or stamping it to the desired form, then drying or baking it. When properly dressed it is pleasant and wholesome, but not so easy of diges- tion as some other wheaten preparations. It is nutritious, however, and if well cooked deserves an extensive use. Butter and cheese go well with it, as the butter supplies the fat it lacks, and cheese adds the albumenoid element in its casein. Veemioelli and Spaghetti are prepared in the same way as macaroni, only they are pressed through smaller holts, making them a little smaller round. MUSHROOMS. Never be content with wiping, but always wash mushrooms, thoroughly, and dry with a cloth. They should be cooked soon after being gathered, for as soon as decay begins they are unfit for food- To this cause alone many of the cases of illness caused by them can be attributed. The trimmings are useful for flavoring gravies, soups, ragouts, etc. MUSHROOMS, FRIED.— Peel, cut off the stalks, and place them in the frying=pan with a little butter; fry gently until they are quite tender; season with pepper and pour the contents of the frying=pan over them. If desired put them on buttered toast before pouring on the gravy. ESCALLOPED MUSHROOMS — Take 8 cups chopped mush- rooms and 2 cups cracker crumbs, rolled fine. Put a layer of cracker crumbs into a pudding=dish, then a layer of mushrooms; sprinkle with salt and add bits of butter. Add alternate layers of crackers and mushrooms thus, finishing with crackers. Then pour on 1 cup cream, and bake in a moderate oven about 1 hour. MUSHROOM PIE — Cut fresh agarics in small pieces; add pep- per, salt, and place them on small shreds of bacon in the bottom of a pie dish; cover with mashed potatoes, and so add alternate layers, having potato on top. Bake well ^ hour, and brown before a quick fire. MUSHROOMS EN RAGOUT — Put into a sauce=pan a little "stock," vinegar, parsley, salt, spices, and green onions chopped up; when about to boil put in the cleaned mushrooms; when done till tender, remove from the fire and thicken with yolks of eggs. MUSHROOMS ON TOAST — Put 2 cups mushrooms into a stew= pan with 2 oz. butter rolled in flour; add 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon each of white pepper and «?rated lemon peel and a blade of powdered mace; stew until the butter is absorbed and the mushrooms tender. Serve at once on toast. Garnish with lemon. VEGETABLES 235 CANNED MUSHROOMS.— Take 1 can mushrooms, add 2 tea- spoons melted butter with jflour and salt; heat in a double boiler thoroughly. Stir in 1 beaten egg and 3 tablespoons of cream just before serving. OuK OoLOEED Illustrations. Fig. I — The Morel {Morchella esculenta). This mushroom is . found in April and May in grassy places on the borders of fields and the raised banks of streams, sometimes in fir or chestnut forests and in hilly countries. Cooking them. (1) Remove the butt of the stem and wash and dry carefully. Cut large ones in small pieces, and split small ones. Pour on boiling water, set on stove 5 minutes and then drain. Then gently stew 1 hour in a little water; then add a little soup stock, pep- per, salt and butter, and onion if liked, and cook a few minutes. Serve on buttered toast. Garnish with slices of lemon. (2) Fill them with a forcemeat of seasoned bread and wrap them in thin slices of salt pork or bacon; bake in the oven 30 to 40 minutes, or slowly stew 1 hour in good broth. (3) Escallop them as directed above for mushrooms. Fig. 2. — Meadow Mushroom {Agaricus campesti'is) . This vari- ety grows in open grassy places in fields and rich pastures, but never in thick woods. They are fall mushrooms. Cooking. (1) To fry, scald a few seconds, dry with a cloth, dredge with flour seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry 5 or 6 minutes in smoking hot fat. Serve hot. (2) They can be boiled and then they make desirable additions to soups, gravies, ragouts, etc, (3) Stewed with butter, spice, pars- ley, salt, pepper, lemon juice and sweet herbs it goes well with steak or mutton chops. (4) Escallop as directed above for mushrooms. (5) It makes a fine catsup. Fig. 3. — Clianterelle {Cantharellus cibarious). This variety is generally found in light woods and high situations, and it grows in great abundance. For cooking, choose crisp, heavy ones rather than light soft ones, as they are less likely to become leathery. They are sometimes soaked in milk over night to make them tender. To stew, cut them across and remove the stems; put them into a closely cov- ered sauce=pan, with a little butter, and stew till tender at the lowest possible temperature; great heat destroys the flavor. As they are rather dry and tough, long, slow stewing is needed, with plenty of liquid. Fig. 4 — Hedgehog or Spine Mushroom {Hydntim repandum). This is the most desirable species of the genus Hydnum. It may be stewed in brown or white sauce, cooking slowly and for a long time; as it is naturally deficient in moisture keep well supplied with liquid. This species is easily preserved and may be kept a long time. Fig. 5 — Horse Mushroom {Agaricus arvensis). This variety is found in the fields and pastures in autumn. Its flesh is firm and delicious and yields an abundant gravy. 236 VEGETABLES Fig. 6. — The Oyster Mushroom {Agaricus ostreatus). This va- riety is found on dead tree trunks in the fall. It can be cooked in any of the usual ways given above for mushrooms, but is better cook- ed over a slow fire. Fig. 7. — Orange Milk Mushroom {Lactarius deliciosus). This variety is found in swampy woods and in forests of fir and pine. Its flavor when cooked is thought to resemble kidney stew. It requires delicate cooking, as, if kept over the fire until its juice evaporates it becomes tough. It is probably best baked. Fig. 8. — Edible Pore Mushroom {Boletus edulis Bull). This va- riety is found chiefly in the woods, especially of pine, oak and chest- nut. It is most abundant in autumn, but is found in spring and summer. Its flesh is tender and juicy and it requires less cooking than some of the tougher varieties. It can be (1) broiled; or (2) stewed in white sauce with or without chicken in fricassee; or (3) escalloped as directed above for mushrooms. Fig. 9. — The Plum Mushroom {Agaricus prunulus). This va- riety grows in and near damp woods. The flesh is firm, juicy and full of flavor. It may be (1) broiled; or (2) stewed, and is then de- licious. , Mushrooms belong to the genus Agaricus, and over 1000 different species are known. The season for mushrooms extends from spring well into autumn. They are highly nitrogenous and some varieties contain much fat or oil; when dried about, ^ their weight is nitrogenous. They are admirably adapted for human con- sumption, no other class of vegetables containing in a higher degree the elements needed for nutrition. Many people are prejudiced against their use because there are so many poisonous varieties, and the inexperienced cannot readily distinguish between them. It is probable that in the future they will become a more import- ant article of food than at present. The fresh are better than the canned, but it is better in gathering them to be guided by some one who unerringly knows the edi- ble varieties, than to trust to any written description. Any mushroom having an offensive smell, or a bitter, astringent, or even unpleasant flavor, is unfit for food. OKRA. BOILED. — Use only that which is young and tender; wash care- fully, so as not to break the skins for the mucilage to escape. After washing, take ofP the stems and boil until quite soft, in water con- taining a little salt. When done, drain in the colander, place in the dish in which it is to be sent to the table, season with pepper and a little more salt; then pour over it butter sauce, or hot cream. Cook okra in- porcelain lined or tin vessels, as iron colors it black. Time to boil, 1 hour or more. The Okra is a species of maiiow (the Hibiscus esculentus) possessing mucilagen- ous seed pods which are valuable for soups and stews. The dishes thus formed are healthful and nutritious, and are quite popular in the South and in France. The ripe seeds are sometimes used to adulterate coffee, and form one of its least ob- jectionable adulterations. Use the pods when young and tender; when over 3 inches long, they become tough and stringy. VEGETABLES 237 ONIONS. Onions, as has been said elsewhere, should not be cooked with other vegetables, nor should the kettle in which they are cooked be used for other; foods, as the odor of the onions clings tenaciously to the kettle for a long time after using it for that vegetable. So many people dislike onions, and others who like them do not eat them for other reasons, that great care should be taken in this respect. Remember the caution about using them in soups, when you are not sure of the tastes of the partakers; boil the onions separately, in the onion-kettle, and add them, at the time of serving, to the soup of those who like them. When peeling and slicing onions, hold the hands under water and they will not then affect the eyes. After peeling onions the smell may be taken from the hands by rubbing them with celery. It is said that after eating onions, the odor may be overcome by eating a little parsley. Onions, carrots and turnips should be cut across the fibre in rings, instead of being split the other way, as they will then cook tender more quickly. The rank flavor of onions may be relieved by soaking them for an hour before cooking, in warm salt water, PLAIN, BOILED ONIONS — Pour on boiling water, and take off the skins (use those of medium size, as the largest ones can be sliced for frying, and the smallest can be used for soups, if liked). Boil them in salted water, changing it once or twice during the process; when done soft, take them out with a fork, or drain them, put in a vegetable dish, sprinkle on salt, pepper, and bits of butter, which will be melted by the heat of the onions, and serve. Time to boil, about ^ hour. ONIONS A LA BORDEAUX.— Parboil medium sized onions, then drain the water from them; put them in a kettle with butter the size of an egg, a little salt, and use stock, gravy or water, to moisten them; simmer them until tender, and the sauce is reduced; add the juice of a lemon, and send to the table hot. ONIONS WITH CREAiyi.— Skin the onions and cut them in small pieces and put them into a sauce^pan with a piece of butter and a little water, and let them cook thoroughly. Strain them and put them back into the sauce=pan, with a piece of butter; when this is melted, stir in a little flour, pepper and salt, and just before serv- ing, a small quantity of cream. When this is added, the sauce must on no account be allowed to reach boiling point. Milk can be used in place of cream. Time, altogether, about ^ hour. 238 VEGETABLES ESCALLOPED ONIONS ;Boil the onions till quite soft, chang- ing the water twice. Butter a deep baking-dish, and put in a layer of onions just pulled apart in bits, but not chopped; season with bits of butter and a little salt; then add a layer of bread crumbs or crushed crackers, season to taste, and moisten with milk. Then put in alternate layers of onions and crumbs, seasoning each layer, till the dish is full; finish with the bread crumbs. Moisten the last layer very thoroughly with milk; bake ^ hour in a hot oven. Escalloped, No. 2. — Lay an onion, sliced, and fried brown in but- ter, in the bottom of a baking=dish; put a layer of cold boiled rice next, well moistened with an equal quantity of stewed tomatoes, and cover the whole with a layer of crumbs, wet with milk. Set in the oven till heated through and brown on top. The rice and tomatoes should be previously seasoned. FRIED ONIONS — If the onions are large, cut them in quarters first, then across in small pieces. The small ones may be cut in rings; put them in a spider, with a little dripping, or salt pork fat, to keep them from sticking; cover for 10 minutes, to partly stew them, then uncover and stir them until they are a nice yellowish brown. Butter may be used in frying onions, if preferred, but anything fried with butter must be closely watched, as it is more apt than other fat to scorch. SPANISH ONIONS, FRIED — Heat 2 tablespoons butter in the frying=pan till smoking hot; put in 2 lbs. Spanish onions, peeled and sliced, add 1 teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne and a little black pep- per; cook until tender, stirring constantly; then serve on toast. Pour over them the gravy they form in cooking. The onion belongs to the natural order Allium, which includes also the leek, garlic and shallot. It is supposed to be a native of India, or Egypt, in both of which it has been grown from very early times. In Egypt, it was an object of worship. Of all the flavoring substances used in cookery, it is the most valuable, next to salt. The onion possesses strong irritant and excitant properties, and is diuretic, expectorant and stimulating. It is believed to promote sleep, and is usually considered very nutritious, but opinions differ on this point. They are not suited to all stomachs, and some cannot eat them fried or roasted, while others prefer them boiled, by which process they are deprived of their essential oil. Some authorities claim for them medicinal qualities of a high order, and advise their more general use. The strong smell comes from a volatile oil, rich in sulphur. Spanish Onions are large, white, and delicate in odor and flavor. They can be used to flavor other vegetables, or used as a salad when cut in thin shavings. They can also be baked, boiled or fried, and served as a vegetable. PARSNIPS. BOILED — Wash and scrub well, and boil until tender in salted VEGETABLES 239 water; then put them into cold water and the skins will easily rub off. Then cut them up and serve in a bechamel or white sauce, letting them steep in it a little while before serving. Time to boil, if small, ^ to 1 hour; if large 1 to 1|^ hours. PARSNIP BALLS. — Boil as above and take off the skins; then mash smooth, removing any tough fibre; add salt, pepper, a little flour, and well=beaten egg; form into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. FRIED PARSNIPS — Boil and skin as above; when cold, slice them and saute in butter or salt pork fat. Season with salt and uep- per, and serve hot. STEWED PARSNIPS. — Wash and scrape them clean, then cut them in little pieces about ^ an inch square, put them in a kettle with just sufficient water to cover them, with a trifle of salt and a lit- tle pepper. When they are done, take off the cover, and let the water they were boiled in evaporate, so that there will be none to turn off, and they will brown a little; do not stir them until you take them up; then add a generous piece of butter (remember the old adage, " Fine words butter no parsnips"); stir lightly with a fork, take them up into a hot vegetable dish, and send to the table. Parsnips are a native of England, and are found in many parts of Europe and northern Asia. There are several varieties in cultivation. They are wholesome and m.of e nutritious than either the carrot or the turnip. Pars- nips are sweetish in taste, and are a particularly useful vegetable in spring, when a change of diet is desirable and fresh vegetables are scarce. They contain a little gluten, and a small percentage of starch and sugar. They go well with corned beef and salt fish. Although they are left in the ground during the winter, they should be dug as soon as the frost is out of the ground, and before • the tops start to grow, as that detracts from their sweet- ness, ^^"^^■.ii. PEAS. Young green peas should be washed in the pods, then shelled; then put the pods in a little soft water and boil about 10 minutes, as these pods are sweet and full of flavor which is worth saving; then skim them out, put in the peas, and boil about ^ hour, or until tender, adding a little salt when almost done. Do not drain off the water they were cooked in, but serve with the peas. When done, add a little butter, and salt if needed. A little sugar will be an improve- ment, and cream if you have it. Green peas are nice cooked in a steamer without water; then salted, and cream poured over them. 240 VEGETABLES If dried peas are boiled until very soft, mashed and passed through a sieve, then seasoned and served, it will divest them of their indigestible outer coat, and it is really the best way to serve them. This applies also to beans. These pulses are among the most nutritious of food, but the outer skin is almost indigestible cel- lulose and is best gotten rid of as far as possible. Time to boil peas, about ^ to 1 hour, according to age and condition. The water in which peas are boiled should not be thrown away. If to this, as it comes from the kettle, is added a little stock, or some good meat extract, a deli- , cious soup is at once produced, requiring nothing more than ordinary seasoning. Peas have been cultivated in the East from time immemorial, and were introduced into Europe very early in the middle ages. When eaten young, they are wholesome and digestible, and being richer in phosphates than most other vegetables, they are more adapted to invalids; but when older they are more indigestible. Split peas have the tough envel- ope removed. Green peas are more digestible but less nour- ishing than dried, which require prolonged boiling to make them digestible. Dried peas should always ^^^i. be boiled in soft water, for the longer they are boiled in hard water, the harder they become. A little bicarbonate of soda, (cooking soda) may be added to the water in which dried peas and beans are cooked, as this assists in softening the legumen. It may also be added to stale green peas, but it impairs the color of fresh, tender, green peas and beans, and is not needed for softening purposes. PAKSLEY. FRIED. — See that the parsley is dry, dip it in smoking hot fat 1 minute, drain on paper, sprinkle on pepper and salt, and serve. The Pabsley is a hardy biennial plant, a native of Eastern Europe. There are several varieties, the Ham- burg parsley being grown for the sake of its roots which are eaten like parsnips. The leaves of parsley are nutri- tious and stimulating, and are used as a flavoring for soups, etc., as well as for garnishing foods. The root is diuretic. The fruit (seed) is a deadly poison to many birds, especially parrots. To keep parsley for the winter, use that which is freshly gathered, wash it free from grit and dirt, and put it into water which has been slightly salted and well skimmed, and let it boil i3 or 3 minutes; then take it out, drain, and lay it on a sieve before the fire and dry as quickly as possible; store away in bottles in a dry place. When wanted for use, pour a little warm water over it and let stand about 5 minutes. POTATOES. Probably the best method of cooking potatoes, certainly from September to June, is by steaming them in the skins; by this pro- VEGETABLES 241 cess the steam penetrates everywhere, and there is no loss of mate- rial or salts. If the skins are removed before boiling, a large amount of salts will be lost. Dr. Letheby estimates the loss when the skins are removed at 14%, and when not removed at only 3%. The addition of common table salt to the water is advantageous, as it modifies the extraction of the natural salts, and improves the flavor. The boiling should be thorough, so that the starch grains of which they are largely composed, may swell and burst the walls of cellulose, which confine them; too often, however, the potatoes are spoiled by allowing them to absorb water, and so become sod- den after this stage is reached. Old potatoes, towards the end of the season, are improved by being peeled and put into cold water over night, by which process they regain in a measure their natural color and consistency. Put potatoes into cold water as soon as peeled; they turn dark if left exposed to the air. Old potatoes are rendered more digestible by being finely mashed; mash them very thoroughly indeed — you will hardly over- do it. Roasted potatoes are more nutritious than boiled, and mealy potatoes more nutritious than those which are waxy. Potatoes are spoiled by germination or growing (which exhausts the starch) and by frost; severe frost invariably kills them, so that when the thaw comes the process of putrification almost immediately sets in. The sweetness of potatoes which have been frozen and thawed, arises from the fact that the starch then changes to sugar on being exposed to warmth and air. Keep them frozen until wanted for use, then thaw by letting them lie in cold water, and use at once. Potatoes after being frozen decay very quickly, because in freezing the water they contain bursts the cells. They can be put on to bake without being thawed, when frozen. Whenever the starch cells are intact, ripe potatoes can be cooked so that they will be mealy. The starch cells have not matured in unripe potatoes, so that when cooked they will not be so mealy, but they need not be soggy. When potatoes sprout, the ■ process of germination ruptures the starch cells so that they will not afterwards cook as mealy as before sprouting. If sprouts appear they should be removed or killed at once, as they exhaust the starch as they grow, and spoil the potato for food. TO BOIL POTATOES — Wash them very thoroughly, or scrub them; a narrow strip cut ofp around the middle will allow the poi- sonous solanine to escape more readily; put them into boiling, salted 16 242 VEGETABLES water, and boil them until soft (about 25 minutes) varying accord- ing to variety and size. The thing to bear in mind is that to have., potatoes mealy they must be taken out of the water as soon as the starch cells are cooked enough so that their walls are ready to burst; if drained off at once, the superfluous water will pass off as steam, and the interior will be dry and floury; if left longer they will absorb water and become sodden; therefore as soon as they are ten- der enough to pierce readily with a fork, drain them, cover with a thick cloth, and set them for 15 or 20 minutes on the back part of the range, or where they will keep hot without burning. They can be kept thus, hot and dry, for several hours if need be, and right for eating. BAKED POTATOES. — Select potatoes as nearly of a size as possible, wash or scrub thoroughly clean, and if old, let them stand for 2 hours in cold water; then wipe dry (always dry potatoes for baking) and bake in a hot oven; it will take from f to 1 hour. It is a good plan to prick the skin before putting them in to bake, to allow the escape of the steam and prevent their bursting; if not pricked, break the skin as soon as they are done to allow the steam to escape. Never cover baked potatoes to confine the steam, as that makes them soggy. Potatoes baked until just done are best; baked longer, they harden near the skin, lose their light, mealy char- acter, and so deteriorate. Serve while hot. Baked potatoes are the most wholesome, because none of the nutrients are lost, part of the starch is turned to sugar, and the solanine escapes with the steam. POTATO BALLS — Mix 2 teacups mashed potatoes, 2 table- spoons melted butter, 2 well=beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste; form into , balls, roll in flour, and fry in hot lard, or drippings. BROILED POTATOES. — Cut whatever you may have of cold boiled potatoes into lengthwise slices, about ^ inch thick; dip each in flour, and lay them between an oyster broiler. Have the fire clear, and when both sides are nicely browned, lay the slices on a hot dish, put a piece of butter on each and season with salt and pepper. A very delicate dish. POTATO CAKE. — Boil the potatoes till they are soft and floury, dry them, and, while warm, mash them thoroughly — this is usually done with the hand; then mix with them as much flour as will bind the potato without making it stiff, add salt, and roll out on a floured board, and shape the cake or cakes, then fry in boiling bacon=fat. VEGETABLES 243 Usually, the cake is rolled to about |- inch in thickness, molded to the shape of the pan, and fried whole. Properly made, it is won- derfully light. It requires some art in turning it. This is managed by heating only enough fat at first to fry one side, then dexterously turning the cake on to a i)late, and when sufficient fat is boiling for the other side, sliding it into the pan again. BOSTON CHIPS. — After paring the potatoes, soak them 1 hour in cold water; then cut them into thin slices, lengthways of the potato; after this do not wet them again. Have a kettle of moder- ately hot fat ready; put the chips in a basket, dip them in the fat, leave a moment, lift out, dip in again, lift out again, and then put in and fry until they turn a golden brown; then lift out, put them in a colander, sprinkle on salt, set in the oven a minute, and serve. SARATOGA POTATOES — Shave them thin, soak in cold or ice water 20 or 30 minutes, drain them, dry on a towel, and fry in boiling fat to a light brown; when done, drop them on blotting or unglazed paper to absorb the extra fat; sprinkle on salt and serve hot. Enough can be done at one time, if desired, for several meals; they keep well, are easily warmed over by setting them in the oven a few min- utes, and are nearly as good as when fresh. A similar method is to cut them in cubes, instead of thin strips. They require a little longer frying, but are nice for a change, and are more moist and digestible than chips. CREAMED POTATOES. — Into a frying*pan put 1 tablespoon butter; as soon as it bubbles, stir in 1 tablespoon of flour, and 1 cup of hot milk; season to taste with pepper and salt; then put in 2 cups cold boiled potatoes, which are cut into small cubes, heat thoroughly and serve. POTATOES WITH CHEESE.— Put alternate layers of thinly^ sliced cheese, and sliced cold potatoes into a dish, with the cheese on top; dot with butter, and bake a light brown in a slow oven. Time, about | hour. ESCALLOPED POTATOES — Slice small, raw potatoes quite thin. Butter a dish well, and sprinkle fine bread crumbs on the bottom; then put in a layer of sliced potatoes and season with salt and pepper and bits of butter. Then add another layer of crumbs, and so alter- nately until the dish is full, having crumbs on top with a good supply of butter. Moisten with milk and a little cream, if it is to be had, and bake until potatoes are creamy and nicely browned on top. If the oven is very hot, it is well to cover them part of the time. 244 VEGETABLES POTATOES AND EGGS.— Take 2 large cups of cold, well= mashed potatoes, and ^ cup melted butter; beat together until light and smooth, and add 2 well=beaten eggs, 1 cup milk, and a little salt; beat all together, put into a deep dish, brown in a quick oven, and serve hot. Time, about 10 minutes. FRIED. — Peel and slice cold potatoes, and fry first one side; then turn and fry the other, in a frying-pan, with salt pork fat, beef drippings or butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and always send to the table hot. Raw potatoes can be fried in the same way. They will be better if soaked in cold water after being peeled and sliced; the water will take out the starch and they will then fry more crisp. The French usually fry them, like doughnuts, in smoking hot fat. Take them out the minute they are browned, drain on paper, sea- son, and serve hot. POTATOES WARMED IN GRAVY.— Chop cold boiled potatoes in the chopping^bowl (with a knife they are never cut even, some pieces are large, while others are almost mashed); after the potatoes are pretty fine, put a piece of butter in the frying=pan, turn in the po- tatoes, brown slightly, then turn in gravy (chicken gravy is very nice), and stir the potatoes carefully with a fork, so as not to mash them, until the gravy is very hot. Season with a little salt and pepper. LYONNAISE POTATOES — Slice 6 cold boiled potatoes, or cut into dice. Put a little butter in the frying-pan, put in ^ onion chopped fine, and fry it a light brown, turning ^hem without breaking; then stir in 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, and serve hot. A few drops of vinegar added with the onion, improves the flavor. MASHED POTATOES — Pare and boil them in slightly salted water; when done, drain off the water, and mash them in the kettle with a w;ire masher; add a level teaspoon of salt to 10 potatoes, and a little cream, or, if one has no cream, a piece of butter and a little hot water; mash and beat against the side of the kettle, until they are creamy — you can hardly mash too much; keep them hot in the ket- tle until ready to serve. Pour hot water in the vegetable dish to warm it, pile the potato in the dish, put dots of black pepper over it, and send it to the table. POTATOES A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL — Cut cold boiled pota- toes in small squares, the size of dice, and put them over the fire in a stew'pan, with butter or cream, a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice. Let VEGETABLES 245 them get hot, shaking the pan to keep them from burning, and serve them in a hot dish that has been rubbed with a raw onion. POTATO PUFF To 2 cups of mashed potatoes, add 2 table- spoons of melted butter, and beat until light; then mix in it 2 eggs, well beaten, a cup of milk, and salt to taste. Beat together thorough- ly, and bake in a buttered pudding^dish in a quick oven until nicely browned. A fine breakfast dish. PUFFED POTATOES. — Cut peeled raw potatoes in thin slices, and fry in a kettle of hot fat; stir with a fork to prevent their stick- ing together. When they are soft, take them out with a skimmer and let them drain on a sieve until cool; then return to the hot fat and fry 4 minutes longer; the second frying causes the slices to puff and become hollow. Sprinkle them with salt and serve. POTATO STEW. — Take 6 or 8 large potatoes, peel and slice thin; cut 3 thick slices of salt pork into little squares, and put into the bottom of the soup=kettle; fry thoroughly, then add the potatoes, with salt, pepper and a little sage, if liked, and 1 large tomato peeled and sliced; cover with water and closely cover the kettle. Cook until the potatoes begin to break in pieces. Cheap and good. QUIRLED POTATOES — Peel, boil, season and mash potatoes; put them through a colander into the dish in which you wish to serve them, set in a hot oven and brown. SALTED POTATOES. — Make a strong brine of salt and water; clpan but do not cut, smooth, medium sized potatoes; when the brine is boiling hot put in the potatoes and boil until tender. Serve with the jackets on, with good butter. Nice and new. STUFFED POTATOES. — Choose 12 good=sized potatoes, wash them, and scrub the skins with a brush; bake them until done — about 1 hour. Remove them from the oven, cut a slice off one end of each, scrape out the potato, mix it lightly with a small piece of butter, pepper and salt, replace it in the skin, and, when all are done, return them to the oven for 10 minutes. In serving, cut a slice off the other end to make them stand upright on a flat dish, leaving the top uncovered. A little cooked meat can be mixed in before replacing the potato in the skin, if desired. POTATO TURNOVERS — Have some cold roast beef, or veal and ham mixed, and cut very fine. Take hot mashed potatoes and make into a paste with 1 or 2 eggs, according to quantity. You should have twice as much potato as meat. Roll the potato out, 246 VEGETABLES dredging with flour. Out this round, about the size of a small saucer. On one half-put the chopped meat, fold the other half over and fry a light brown. WARMED OVER POTATOES.— (1) Slice up cold potatoes, fry in a little butter, lard, or nice drippings, season with salt and pepper; fry a nice brown, and just before serving pour in a little cream or milk; toss about for a few minutes. Serve very hot. Or, (2) grate them into the dish they are to be served in, dot with butter, sprinkle on salt, and bake about 5 minutes in a hot oven. Or, (8) cut into dice, put into a dish, add a little milk, butter and salt, and heat in the oven. Never waste any potato left over. The potato is a native of America. It was introduced into England in the sixteenth century, but it was nearly 100 years before it was cultivated to any ex- tent. As food, it ranks next in value to the cereals, but it is not as cheap and desirable a food in itself as is often supposed, since it does not contain the neces- sary food elements in right proportions for a steady diet. It is best eaten as an addition to pulses, lean meat, and other nitrogenous food.' Potatoes consist mainly of starch and water, about 78^ being water; starch 18^, and fibrin and albumen 2%. Young new potatoes are more indigestible than old ones. In a floury and mealy state they are easily digested, but when close and waxy they are not. They possess slightly laxative qualities. The waste in boiling is mucfi less when they are boiled in their skins, because that is of a cork=like sub- stance partly impervious to water. There is considerable waste in peeling potatoes because the most albuminous part lies immediately under the skin. In and near the skin itself, is a poisonous acid juice, called solanine, but that is destroyed or dissipated when the potatoes are cooked. It is this poisonous acid which causes the disagreeable smell and taste of the water in which potatoes have been boiled, and it makes the water unfit for use. SWEET POTATOES. TO BOIL. — Select those of an even size, wash perfectly clean, and boil until tender; then peel, cut them in two lengthwise, and place them on a buttered tin in the oven to brown; in this way the skins are disposed of before sending them to the table. It takes longer to cook sweet potatoes than the common ones. The time is about f to 1 hour. BAKED — Wash medium^sized sweet potatoes and place on the top grate of a hot oven ; when the potatoes are about half done, pierce them with a fork to let the steam escape; this will make them dry and mealy. BROILED — Boil, let cool, and peel the number of large, sweet potatoes required. Slit them in 2 or 3 slices, dip in melted butter, and place them in a double gridiron. Broil a light brown on both sides, dish them up, and after pouring some melted butter over the potatoes, they may be served. FRIED. — Peel the raw potato, cut it into very thin, lengthwise strips, and fry in smoking hot fat, deep enough to immerse them in; VEGETABLES 247 as they rise to the top and brown on one side, turn them and let them brown on the other. Nice, and new in the north. SWEET POTATOES AND PORK — Select white looking fresh pork— rib pieces; cut them thin and free from fat and bone; fry them carefully, and cook thoroughly until nicely browned; then place on a warm platter; cut boiled sweet potatoes in slices lengthways, and fry until brown in the fat in the spider; use care not to burn them; salt them as they cook; then arrange on the platter around the meat; serve very hot, with apple=sauce and hot johnny-cake. SUGARED SWEET POTATOES — Boil those of medium size, dry off in the oven, peel, let them get cold, and then cut in two length- wise; then lay each half on its round side in a shallow pan or dripping-pan, put a good bit of butter and a little salt and pepper on each one, sift granulated sugar generously over all, and put in a quick oven to brown; it takes about 40 minutes. Excellent and new. The sweet potato is probably of American ori- sweet potato. gin, though now extensively cultivated in many countries. It belongs to the Convolvulus order. It contains more sugar than the true potato. Its constituent parts are, water 71 parts; albunaen, 13^; starch, 15; sugar, 3; pectose gum and cellulose, 5; mineral matter, 1. PUMPKINS. PUMPKIN BUTTER.— Peel and cut enough pumpkin to fill a large iron or porcelain kettle. Select the sweetest pumpkins, as you would for pies. Stew 4 or 5 hours, until it is a rich golden brown color, and dried to a thick paste. It must be frequently stirred at last, to prevent burning. This sauce is especially good, served with pork, either salt or fresh. Pumpkins for winter can be stewed and canned like fruit, and will then nearly equal fresh pumpkins. Pumpkins are a species of gourd. They were formerly more used for food than at present, having been somewhat supplanted by the squash. They possess one peculiar quality — that of absorbing and retaining the flavor of whatever they are cooked with. If stewed with apples they taste exactly like them in puddings and tarts, and they may be used to advantage in most savory cookery. They con- tain about 1% of sugar, 2 to b% of starch, and about 1% of fat and nitrogenous mat- ter. An aaonymous writer in the early settlement of America wrote home to Eng- land as follows: "If fresh meat be wanting to fill up our dish, We have carrots, and pumpkins, and turnips and fish. We have pumpkins at morning, and pumpkins at noon, And if it were not for pumpkins we should be undone." 248 VEGETABLES RICE. BOILED. — Pick over carefully, and wash at least twice, in cold water, washing it thoroughly clean, and drain. Then put the rice into plenty of well salted boiling water, and make it boil actively so that the water will bubble and toss the rice around; cook it till tender, but no longer, for if the grains burst they will surely stick together; test it often by squeezing a grain between the fingers; if it flattens easily it is ready to drain; it should cook in 15 to 20 minutes, according to the age of the rice. When soft, drain off the water, remove the rice, and set it at the back of the stove to dry about ^ hour. If you stir it while cooking, use a fork instead of a spoon, as that separates the grains. Cooked thus each grain will be distinct, and separate. Unless the water is used for soup, boil- ing rice is less desirable than steaming it, becausQ so much of its nutrients are dissolved out and thrown away in the water. BAKED — Take some cold boiled rice, add 1 or 2 well-beaten eggs, some grated cheese, some finely chopped boiled ham, and a little melted butter; put it in a baking=dish, sprinkle grated cheese on top, and bake in a good oven until a broom straw, when thrust into the middle, will come out clean. STEAMED — Pick over the rice and wash it thoroughly, in cold water; put it in a farina boiler, with ^ teaspoon of salt and 1 pint of boiling water to each cup of rice; cover, and cook till soft (about ^ hour); then remove the cover and let it dry off, stirring it with a fork to facilitate the escape of the steam and keep the grains sej)- arate. If you have no double boiler it can be put in a tin pail and steamed in the steamer. Stock or milk can be used instead of water, if desired, but use a little more. RICE WITH CHEESE. — Steam some rice in either water or milk; then mix in some grated cheese, pepper and salt; put the mixture in a pie=dish or tin, shake some grated cheese on top, and bake until nicely browned. The mixture must be fairly moist befere it is baked, or it will get dry. Rice appears to be a native of the East Indies, and it has formed the principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from remote antiquity. It is now cultivated in every country where the climate is suitable. It contains about 75% of starch, and because bice. it has little fat or albumen, it is not fit for a sole article of diet. In nourishing properties it is greatly inferior to wheat, but it is a light and whole^ some food, and is well adapted for invalids. As it has little of the heat pro- ducing elements, it is suitable for the inhabitants of. hot climates. It goes well with meat and other articles rich in albumenoids. VEGETABLES 249 SALSIFY OK VEGETABLE OYSTER. Scrape the roots clean, and keep them covered with cold water containing a little vinegar, until time to cook, as exposure to the air will blacken them. Then boil till tender, in salted water — about 1 hour. After boiling thus, it can be mashed, the fibres picked out, salted to taste, butter worked in, and served in a warm vegetable dish. Or, after boiling, they can be drained, sliced, dipped in frit- ter batter, and fried in smoking hot fat; or egg and bread^crumbed, and then fried. Or ihe slices can be sauted in a frying-pan, with butter or salt pork fat. CREAMED SALSIFY. — Wash it, scrape, cut into slices ^ inch thick, boil till tender in a sauce^pan; then turn off most of the liquor, add milk or cream, and salt to taste, and boil 5 to 10 minutes longer; thicken the liquor with rice flour or other thickening, and serve hot. If milk is used add a large lump of butter. ESCALLOPED SALSIFY— Boil, mash it, moisten with milk, add butter, salt and pepper to season, put it in a baking^pan, cover with dry crumbs, and bake in a quick oven about 7 or 8 minutes. salsify. Salsify (also called vegetable oyster) belongs to the natural order Cornpositce, the same order to which lettuce and chicory belong. It is the root which is used, which is shaped somewhat like the common carrot. As a rule, members of this order are tonic or stimulant in their medicinal qualities. SEA=KALE. BOILED. — Wash the kale thoroughly and examine it for insects; tie it in bunches like asparagus, and boil about ^ hour, or until tender, in water containing a trifle of salt; when done, drain thoroughly on a cloth, untie the bundle, and spread the kale on slices of toasted bread; then pour over it hot butter sauce. Sea^kale resembles asparagus, and belongs to the same tribe. It is easily cultivated. It is so light that the most delicate or- ganizations may readily eat it, and it is nutritious, stimulating to the appetite, and easily digested. It usually contains no sugar, but some mucilage and starch, the percentage being, starch and mucilage, 3; cellulose, 1; albumen 2.i; mineral matter, 0.6, and water, 93. 8EA=KAiiE. Scotch Kale. — This has a fine head of curly leaves; the ten- derest are used as greens, and are prepared in the same manner as dandelions and other greens. This herb may be planted late, like late turnips, and is in sea- son, if planted early, from midsummer to late fall; it may be picked green and fresh, even after the ground is covered wiih snow. RADISHES. These are washed and scraped, and to keep them fresh looking 250 VEGETABLES are placed on the table in glasses containing a little water. All vari- eties are served in the same way. There are many varieties of the radish, and they are supposed to possess some power in stimulating the appetite. The radish is demulcent, stimulating ana diuretic, but it is not suitable for those with weak digestive powers. SAUERKROUT. TO MAKE. — Choose firm, white cabbage heads and remove the coarse outer leaves, and the large fibres of the back of the white leaves; chop coarsely, and for about 30 medium= sized heads, allow ^- Ib. of salt and mix it well with the chopped cabbage; cover the bot- tom of a small oak barrel or cask with cabbage leaves, and press the cabbage firmly into the barrel, or pound it down with a wooden pestle. When all the cabbage is firmly packed, cover with cabbage leaves and a cloth, then have a round cover that goes into the barrel, press it down firmly and put a stone on that to keep it in place. As soon as it begins to ferment (and you will know it by the odor) place the barrel in a cold cellar or storehouse, where it will not freeze. Made in October, it is ready to cook in February. TO COOK — To cook sauerkrout, take it from the barrel, and if very sour it can be washed in a plenty of water and drained dry in the colander; put butter, dripping or salt pork fat in the frying=pan, add a sliced onion, if liked, put a few spoonfuls of water in the pan with the krout; cover with a plate and stew slowly for an hour; then stir it well before taking up. It is eaten with a little pepper and vinegar, or with sour baked apples. SPINACH. BOILED. — Wash it many times in cold water to thoroughly and perfectly free it from sand and dust. Then put in a close sauce=pan, without a drop of water, over a moderate fire; cover closely, and cook till tender — about ^ hour. Its own juice runs out, and it cooks in that. Spinach should be one of the most healthful of springtime vegetables, but its most valuable elements are its mineral matters or potash salts, and by the old method of cooking they are al- most entirely lost. The above method preserves them. When done, drain, chop fine, and season with butter, pepper and salt; or pour over a cream sauce. Serve with slices of hard=boiled egg over it. Spinach is supposed to be a native of Western Arabia. It spinach. was not known to the ancients, but was introduced into Europe some 400 years ago. It is laxative, cooling, wholesome, and easily digested, but does not afiford much nutriment. VEGETABLES 251' SQUASH. SUMMER SQUASH — Boiled.— They must be so young that the thumb nail will strike through the shell. Wash and quarter or slice them (you need not remove the skin or seeds); then boil till tender in slightly salted water — about 20 or 30 minutes. When done, turn off the water and set the kettle back on the stove; mash, and stir to let the water dry out, then add butter, salt, and a little white pep- per. Keep hot on the back of the stove until time to serve. Baked. — Pare the squash, remove the seeds, and steam it until tender; then mash, season with butter, pepper and salt, and to a me- dium^sized squash add 1 cup cracker or bread crumbs; stir together well, put it in a greased baking^dish, and bake 1 hour. Fried Summer Squash. — Peel the squash, cut it in small squares, and fry in hot butter; season with pepper and salt. It will be as delicate as, and taste much like egg plant. Try it. WINTER SQUASH.— This usually has a hard shell, and has to be broken with a hatchet, by dropping on a plank floor, or by sawing with the meat saw. Break in small pieces for the kettle, scrape out the seeds, and wash clean. Put the pieces in the kettle with the shell side up, have a little salt in the water, which should cover it, and cook for an hour, if it does not break to pieces. When done, take the shells in a clean cloth, and, with an iron spoon, scrape the squash into a basin to keep hot on the back of the range. If too dry, moisten with a little water, and add butter, salt and pepper to taste. Some winter squashes have a thin soft shell and are watery; they can be baked in the oven, then seasoned as above. Both summer and winter squashes are also steamed instead of boiled by some cooks. The squash is a species of the gourd, belonging to the same general order as the cucumber and pumpkin. It is a pleasant and wholesome article of food, but contains little nutriment, having about 1% of sugar, 2 to 4^ of starch, and less than 1% of nitrogenous matter. TOMATOES. BAKED — Scald and skin tomatoes that are whole and firm, and ripe enough to be thoroughly red; cut a slice from the stem end, and with a sharp knife take out the hard core; arrange them in a round baking^in well buttered, with the cut side upward; put a sprinkle of salt and pepper over them, and, in each one, a bit of bread well but- tered. Then bake. Time, about ^ hour. BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES.- Choose large tomatoes, as nearly the same size as possible; from the stem end take out the seeds and inner part of the tomato; make a stuffing of bread crumbs, 252 VEGETABLES finely^chopped cold ham, and the chopped tomato; season with but- ter, pepper, a little salt and mustard. Fill the tomatoes with the stuffing and bake them. Time, about \ hour. Add a little butter to them before putting in the oven, and a very little water in the bak- ing^pan. When they are done, set them where they will keep hot; add a little more butter and hot water to the baking^pan, and make a thin gravy, thickening it with brown flour and stirring in a table- spoon of sugar. TOMATOES AND CREAM.— Slice the tomatoes rather thick, and turn off all the juice that escapes; sprinkle with sugar, and just before they are served pour cream over them To those who have never tried it this dish may be uninviting, but to those who are fond of the natural flavor of the tomato, it will be found delicious. The yellow tomato preserves are very nice served with cream. Accom- panied with nice white cake, no daintier dessert could be wished for. TOMATO CROUTES Small tomatoes are better for this dish. Scald and peel, then cut a slice from the stem end, leaving about f of the tomato; place them the cut side down, on slices of buttered bread, arranged in a buttered bakings tin; sprinkle with salt and pep- per; bake ^ hour. This dish can be served with cold meat, and is well worth trying. ESCALLOPED TOMATOES — Tomatoes are escalloped like oys- ters. Put a layer of bread crumbs in a buttered baking-dish; over this, a layer of sliced tomatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, butter, and a very little sugar. Have the top layer of bread crumbs, and scatter over it bits of butter, and then bake — time, about ^ hour. A little of the gravy left from roast meats would add to the flavor, and might be poured over just before it is put in the oven. Canned tomatoes can be used almost equally well. RAW TOMATOES — Tomatoes are often eaten raw. Some peo- ple object to having the skin removed,- but if properly done, the flavor is not injured. Select those which are firm, smooth and fully ripe, put them in a pan, and pour on enough boiling water to cover, and leave them 15 seconds, but no more; then pour off, and fill the dish with cold water. Take out, remove the skins and cores, and set on ice till wanted. Cut in thin slices and serve ice cold. They are delicious eaten either with sugar alone, or with sugar, salt, pepper and vinegar. They should be prepared several hours in advance, to be eaten this way; or, if wanted for breakfast, skin them the night before, and keep on ice till ready to use them. VEGETABLES 253 FRIED TOMATOES. — Select the largest firm, ripe tomatoes for frying. Cut them in halves and put them in a frying-pan that can be covered, having first melted 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan; place the tomatoes with the skin side down, and on the top of each half put as much of bread crumbs as it will hold; season with salt and pepper. Cover the tomatoes and allow them to cook 10 minutes without removing the cover; then take out the tomatoes on a platter and set where they will keep hot while you prepare a gravy for them, as follows: If the butter has cooked away, add a little more to the frying=pan; pour in ^ teacup of boiling water, then thicken with a teaspoon of flour wet with a little water; stir until it boils, season with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomatoes. TOMATOES AND MACARONI Turn ^ lb. tomatoes into a sauce-pan, with a spoonful of stock or a bit of butter; let them cook until tender enough to pass through a coarse sieve or colander, then re=heat, season nicely, adding a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, and pour over a flat dish covered with nicely boiled macaroni, not the pipe; that answers when it is to be cut into short lengths. XlJover the surface with grated cheese and bread crumbs, put a few bits of butter over it, and brown it before the fire or in a quick oven. SALTED TOMATOES. — Pick ripe tomatoes (but not too ripe) and put in jars. Put strong salt brine over them, and cover with a plate, having the brine just cover them, and then in the winter when you want to use them, take out what you want and soak 24 hours in cold water, and peel and slice the same as when they are fresh from the vines. They are much better in this way than when canned. STEWED TOMATOES. — Scald, peel, slice and stew slowly in a sauce^pan about ^ hour; then add salt, pepper, butter, and a little sugar to sweeten; stew ^ hour more, stirring in the seasoning. Thicken, if desired, with cracker or bread crumbs, or corn=starch, or flour dissolved in cold water. Canned tomatoes can be prepared in the same manner. TOMATO TOAST. — Scald and peel nice, fresh tomatoes, and stew till tender^about ^ to -| hour; season with butter, salt, pepper and a little sugar. Take as many slices of bread as needed for the family, toast well, butter, and arrange in layers in a deep dish with some of the stewed tomatoes on each slice; cover and serve at once. CANNED TOMATOES.— These are nice stewed and baked in alternate layers with boiled rice, or boiled macaroni, seasoning the layers with butter, pepper and salt. 254 VEGETABLES The tomato is a native of South America, and belongs to the nightshade order, which includes the potato and tobacco. It was considered poisonous or unfit for food until within a comparatively few years. The fruit is the only part which is eaten. It is a delicious article of food, and exerts a healthful influence upon the liver and biliary organs, and is considered by some physicians a good remedy for indigestion and dyspepsia. It contains about Q% of sugar, a little less than 1% of malic acid, to which it owes its refreshing and cooling qualities, a little pectose, etc. The skins will readily come off if boiling water is poured over them and they are allowed to stand a while. TUKNIPS. BOILED — Wash, peel, cut in pieces, and boil until tender in just enough salted water to cover them. They are then sometimes mashed until the lumps are all out, then seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a little butter; serve hot. A better way than mashing, because it makes them less soggy, is to chop them; when boiled tender, turn them into a wooden bowl, season with salt, white pep- per and a little butter, chop them very quickly, and put them in the oven to become hot before serving. Small turnips are very nice served whole, with butter, salt and pepper, and if one has it to spare, a few spoons of cream on them. Time to boil, young, 15 to 20 min- utes; if old, f to 1 hour. -CREAMED TURNIPS — Boil, cut in dice, and pour over a cream sauce. A drawn butter, or any white sauce, can be used instead. PIEDMONTESE TURNIPS — Half boil the turnips; after cutting them in slices, butter a pudding=dish, put in the turnips, moisten them with a little milk or cream, dust over them pepper, salt and bread crumbs, and a little grated cheese, and bake in the oven until of a bright golden brown. Omit the cheese if preferred. The turnip is used throughout the United States and Europe, but it does not thrive in a hot climate. It contains little nutritive matter, and is good for human food only when taken with other articles. When eaten alone it creates flatu- lency. It contains no starch but has instead a jelly=like sub- stance called pectine, and in the best kinds a slightly acid quality also. It is somewhat laxative and diuretic. It is not good for those with weak digestive organs. Turnips need tubnips. much salt as they contain none, and being without fats or starch they go well with fat meats, potatoes, etc., which contain those elements- YAMS BOILED. — Peel and cut into slices about ^ inch thick, put them into a kettle with barely enough salted water to cover; cover closely and cook till tender — about |- to 1 hour. Drain in a colander, keep- ing it hot. Make a white sauce, pour it over and serve. VEGETABLES 255 FRIED. — Peel the yams and slice as above; parboil 20 minutes in slightly salted water; then drain, wipe dry, and fry brown in butter, pork fat or oil, as preferred; sprinkle with a little salt and white pepper while frying. The yam is a native of tropical countries. The roots are tuberous, something like our own potatoes. When boiled or baked they are nice in flavor, and very nutritious. Although somewhat resembling sweet potatoes they are of a widely different order, belonging to the order Dioscorea. They contain water, 7d%; albumenoids, 2%; starch, etc., 16^: fats, 0.5^; mineral matters, 1^%. BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. READ has well been-called the staff of life. It is in vegeta- ble foods, that which flesh is in animal foods, and each con- tains nearly all the elements needed for nutrition. Wheat makes the best bread of any cereal. This is ow- ing to the peculiar character of its albuminous matter, which is a greyish yellow, elastic, sticky substance, called gluten. This gluten is a compound of at least 4 albumenoids, called gluten=film, gluten= casein, gliadin, and mucedin. Grains like corn and oatmeal, which lack gluten, do not make good bread. Wheat bread best meets the requirements of adult life. The gluten furnishes the flesh making elements, and the starch the heat giving, while deficiences in the amount of phosphates, etc., can be made up by the use of eggs, vegetables, etc. The essentials of bread making are (1) perfect cleanliness; (2) good flour; (3) good yeast; (4) the dough must rise well; (5) the oven must be right — neither too hot nor too cold; (6) the careful attention of the cook throughout the process. The principal causes of sour bread are using poor yeast, raising at too high a temperature, insufficient baking, and cooling in a warm, impure atmosphere. Wheat bread is the kind most commonly eaten in this country, and it is made of the best quality of wheat flour by mixing it with water or milk and yeast of some kind, which causes a more or less rapid fermentation according to the kind of yeast employed. A thorough kneading or molding process is also essential in making this bread, and great care and skill employed in the baking. The yeast must be fresh and good or the bread will be heavy and indigestible; stale, sour yeast or leaven, produces instead of vinous, an acetous fermentation, and the result is a sour, heavy and unwhole- some loaf. Mixing the Bread. — Always sift the flour before using it, and it should also be dry. Dough for bread, if mixed at night, should be made late in the evening, and well molded (or kneaded as the process is usually called), and in cool or cold weather should be placed where it will retain the warmth of the water or milk used in mixing the dough. The wetting should be quite warm, but not hot enough to scald the yeast. The flour should also be warmed in cold weather 256 BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 257 by setting the pan which contains it on the back, of the range, and constantly stirring it from the bottom of the pan, until the flour feels warm to the hand. The hand is better for stirring it, as a spoon does not always jirevent its caking in the bottom of the i^an. When thus warmed it will rise much more quickly, and when thor- oughly warmed it can be mixed with the warm wetting. A table- spoon of salt is added, and many cooks use a tablespoon of sugar, which hastens the fermentation and rising of the dough. In hot weather the flour does not need warming, and the wetting may also be of the temperature of the air. The dough will be light in the morning, and can be molded again, divided into loaves and put into the bakings tins to rise again, when it will be ready to bake; or, instead of molding it early in the morning, if other work is press- ing, or the third rising is desired, it may be cut down with a knife, until it is very nearly of the bulk it was before rising, and left to rise again until after breakfast is over, when it can be molded to put in the baking=tins. One good bread making rule is to mold 20 minutes at night after mixing, keeping the dough as soft as possible; then cut down well the first thing in the morning; after breakfast mold 10 minutes, with as little added flour as possible, then divide into loaves and put it in the baking4ins. If dough becomes chilled, put the pan at once into a larger one filled with warm water, and as fast as the water cools replace it with more which is warm, until the dough begins to rise again. By keep- ing rising dough at a temperature of about 50° (by putting it in a cellar or otherwise), it may be kept at a standstill for hours without being injured; then it should be brought into a warm room about an hour before baking, to finish the rising process. The best way of mixing bread is to mix the yeast well into the water or milk, and then work in the flour. This is better than the old way of making a hole in the flour and then pouring the liquid into it, as less kneading will be necessary, and the yeast w^ill be more uniformly mixed with the flour. It is better to measure the liquid, letting that regulate the size of the loaf, and then add enough flour to make it the right consistency, than it is to measure the flour flrst and then add the liquid. Measure the liquid, and either mix in all the flour at first, or else add about half at first, making a batter, let it rise well, then add the remainder, and let it rise again. By the latter method the bread rises more quickly, and milk bread may in the summer be thus mixed in the morning and baked by noon. House- keepers can try the 2 methods and adopt the one which they prefer, When yeast bread is mixed in the morning instead of at night 17 258 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. (and with the quickly rising compressed yeast this is often done) instead of molding the bread when first mixed, it can be stirred with a spoon, and the flour cut into it, until the dough is quite stiff; then cover it to keep it warm and in 2 or 3 hours it will have risen so that more flour can be added, then molded, and put into baking=pans to rise. Many persons prefer this bread as being better and sweeter than when risen over night. Remember that getting the dough too stiff is one great fault in making bread; aim to have it as soft as possible without being at all sticky or wet. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself, that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neg- lected when it has reached the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the result in warm weather, and bad bread at all times. The Kneading. — The object in kneading the dough is to thor- oughly mix the flour and water, and evenly distribute the yeast, so that the fermentation may be uniform. It is best done on a bread board, although often done in a mixing bowl. The dough should be kneaded until it is a smooth, plastic, even grained mass. The mo- tion is hard to describe, but much depends on having the kneading thoroughly and properly done. Use as little extra flour as possible. Deftness rather than strength counts in the process. If you can pull the dough out long, and it springs back to the hand, it is good. The Rising — In setting the dough to rise, the rule is that it should rise till its size is a little more than doubled. It is best to cover it with several thicknesses of cloth and a tight fitting cover; this will keep out the air and prevent a thick crust from forming, which will not mix well with the dough when it is kneaded, and will cause streaks or spots in the bread. Grease the bowl in which the dough is set to rise. Care should be taken in rising bread that it is kept warm in cold weather; but not too hot, as that induces the acetous fermentation instead of the vinous, and the dough sours; about 70° to 80° is right. Old bread makers preferred a slow rise, which they said made a sweeter bread, but later scientific developments point towards a quick rising as the best, because yeast being a plant which lives and dies, by quick fermentation the plant is living when the bread is ready to bake, but by the slower process only the dead spores are left. To hasten the process of rising, use plenty of yeast, but do not keep it too hot. The less yeast used however, the sweeter the bread will be, because the yeast consumes the sugar in the dough, and the more yeast used the more sugar will be consumed. BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 259 Bread keeps better, especially in hot weather, if no milk is used in the mixing; a bit of butter or a little lard may be added to the warm water used in mixing the bread, which will give it the neces- sary "shortness" when the milk is omitted. When the dough is molded and placed in the pans, allow for its doubling in size before baking — that is, make up the loaves to half fill the pans. It should be placed in the oven before 'the pans are quite full of the risen dough, for it rises a little after being put in the oven. The Bread Pans — The brick^shaped sheet4ron pans are preferable to any others, both in shape and material. Round loaves do not cut in equal sized or symmetrical slices, and the untinned iron pans are better conductors of heat than those bright with tin. Grease the pan lightly before putting in the bread. The bread should not be made in too large loaves, as it is not so sure of being done in the center; besides, the smaller loaves furnish slices of convenient size without breaking, or cutting in 2 parts, as is sometimes done when the loaves are very large; the medium=sized pans or small ones are the best. A loaf is of better shape if molded in 2 parts, which after baking come out of the pan as a single loaf. One long loaf will be smaller at the ends, and will not cut in nice slices, unless the dough is pulled out quite long, and filled in at the ends of the pans. The Oven should be well heated, and a steady fire maintained during the process of baking. An old rule for the heat of the oven, for bread and most baking, was to have it so that you could "hold your hand in it while you counted 12, but no longer, " but the sensi- tiveness to heat in different individuals varies and a much better test is to throw a tablespoon of fresh flour on the oven bottom. If, after a few seconds the flour remains white, the temperature is too low and should be increased. If it burns black quickly, takes fire, or assumes a dark brown color, the oven is too hot and must be cooled. If it turns a blackish or brownish yellow, and looks slightly scorched, the oven is right. If the oven gets too hot and there is danger of burning the bread, put a dish of hot water in the oven, and the steam will prevent its scorching; it is better, however, to carefully regulate the heat so that this will not be necessary. The right temperature of the oven for baking bread is from 400° to 450°, Baking the Bread — Medium-sized loaves should have from f to 1 hour's time for baking, and should turn out of the pan of a yellowish brown color on the top, bottom and sides of the loaf. One test is to thrust into the loaf a straw taken from the broom; when it is pulled out, if it is clear from dough the bread is done, but if it is sticky the 260 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. bread should be baked longer. Or, if the loaf is baked in 2 parts, break them apart, and press with the finger where broken; if clammy it is not done and must be baked longer, but if elastic it is done. If on opening the oven door you are met with a cloud of steam which quickly passes away, in all probability the bread is done. Bread should reach the temperature of boiling water (212°) clear to the center, but when carelessly baked,* even when burned on the out- side, it sometimes does not do so; in such slack=baked bread the yeast germs are not all killed, and the bread is not wholesome. In putting the pans into the oven leave space enough between them so that the heat can freely circulate around each one. When turned out of the pan, if the sides of the loaf look white, while the top and bottom crust is of a good color, turn the loaf so that one side will come at the top and the other at the bottom of the pan, return it to the oven and finish browning the sides; if this is not done there is danger that the loaf will be doughy in the center. An oven too cold will allow the bread to rise too much, and cause it to run over the sides of the pans, which detracts from the fiavor of the bread. If the oven is too hot it crusts over the top of the loaf and causes it to crack at the sides; it will also crack at the sides if it has not sufiiciently risen in the pan before putting it in the oven. Remember then, that bread should be thoroughly baked, for slack=baked bread is both unwholesome and unpalatable; and also that bread which "doughs" in the mouth will "dough" in the stom- ach, and hence is very indigestible, because it becomes a sticky mass which the digestive fluids do not readily penetrate. After the loaves are baked put them where the air can freely circu- late around them, thus cooling them quickly and carrying away any gas remaining about them; do not leave them in the pans. A fine wire frame is sometimes used to set them on; or turn the pan bottom upward and place the loaf on it, bottom upward also. Do not wet the crust or put a wet towel over it; a little butter or lard may be rubbed over the crust if preferred, but the moisture from the cooling bread will soften the crust sufiiciently, and the bread keeps better to be cooled quickly. A thin dry cloth may be thrown over if -there are flies about. The best bread cloths are made from coarse table linen. Do not use them for anything else, and keep them scrupulously clean. Bread keeps best in a tin box with a cover which shuts down tight- ly to keep it from drying out quickly. It must be thoroughly cold before putting it in the bread^box, or it will not keep well, and be- sides the steam from the bread will cause the box to rust — two things BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 261 to be carefully avoided. Do not wrap bread with a cloth while in the box, as it is then more apt to mold. If the box is rusty, put a plate or platter in the bottom of the box for the bread to rest on. If hot bread is put on a wooden table, spread on a cloth before doing so, or the part of the bread which touches the table will sweat and absorb the odor of the wood. Heat the knife when cutting either warm bread or cake, as it then cuts much smoother. The Bread=box and Remnants. — On the day of baking, while the bread is cooling, take all the old pieces from the box, wash, scald, and thoroughly dry it, and let it stand in the sun, if possible, until the bread is ready to go into it. If there are pieces of old bread left, use them in some way, by making them into toast; or, if not enough for that, put them on a tin and dry them in the oven, roll fine, and use them in puddings, griddle-cakes, croquettes, or in escalloped or gratinated dishes. Do not allow a particle of the old bread to go back into the bread-box with the new; put it under a pan to keep from drying until it is time to use it. It is a good plan to dispose of every particle of old bread before beginning on the fresh. Eating Hot Bread. — Bread made with yeast is indigestible when fresh from the oven, or on the day it is baked, because is is full of moisture and the starch is held together in masses which are impen- etrable to the saliva, and when chewed by the teeth it forms into leathery, poreless masses, which lie in the stomach like lead; it ripens, however, after being kept a day, and then the particles of the bread separate more easily, so that the digestive fluids can more readily come in contact with every portion of them. Hot yeast bread, rolls, biscuit, or muffins should never be eaten by persons of weak digestion, or by those who suffer from dyspepsia. Some people find bread indigestible which is in the least sour; a little lime-water (a teaspoon for each loaf of bread) is sometimes used in mixing the bread; the lime-water being an alkali, neutralizes any acid which is generated during the process of fermenta- tion. Soda is also sometimes used to correct the sourness in bread, but sourness can easily be avoided by proper care, and that is much the better plan. Mixing Different Flours — A mixture of | wheat or rye flour and ^ cornmeal makes a bread quite as nutritious as either all wheat or rye bread, and more digestible because the lessened quantity of gluten makes it less adhesive and more readily penetrated by the gastric juices. Using Cornmeat. — In most dishes made with cornmeal the addition 262 BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. of about 25% of wheat flour increases the adhesiveness of the mix- ture, and is an improvement. Baking Powder Bread. — If 'bread runs short, a tin of baking pow- der biscuits or a baking powder loaf of bread can be quickly made, and, unless it is eaten too hot, there is no danger of dyspepsia, as bread and biscuits made in this way easily separate into particles. This can be readily demonstrated by putting a slice of each kind of bread on a platter and wetting them with cold water; the yeast bread can be taken up whole from the water, while that made with baking powder falls apart immediately. The baking=p6wder bread is more digestible because it thus separates more readily into particles, so that the digestive fluids can easily attack every part, while the other forms a solid, nearly impenetrable mass in the stomach. Other advantages of baking=powder bread are that none of the starch in the flour is consumed by the baking powder, as is done by yeast, and there are certainly no yeast germs in the bread when eaten. Using Pastry Flour — It is a generally safe rule to use pastry flour whenever baking powder is used, and patent flour with yeast. A mixture of ^ spring wheat or pastry flour, and ^ winter wheat or pat- ent flour, gives good results in yeast breads, and by many is pre- ferred to the patent flour alone. Prepared flour, which has the baking powder already mixed with it, can be obtained at grocery stores, or a quantity can easily be prepared at home and kept on hand for use. The proportion is 2^ to 3 teaspoons of baking powder to the quart of flour, taking care that it is well sifted in. Adding Sugar and Potatoes.^In fermented bread it is best to add a little sugar — not enough to produce a very sweet taste, but merely enough to replace that which is decomposed by fermentation, and so restore its natural sweetness. Some people object to using sugar, but for the foregoing reason it is probably better to use a little. Add- ing potatoes to bread dough, which is sometimes done, is unneces- sary with the best grades of flour, but with the inferior grades it im- proves the bread. The Pbinoiples Involved. — As the making of bread is the most important method of cooking grain food, let us examine the process a little and find the principles involved. Grinding the grain removes the indigestible bran, and by reducing it to a powder it vastly increases the surface exposed to the action of the water and yeast. The water when added causes the expansion of the starch cells, and it also gives an agreeable consistence to the bread after it is baked. Each grain of flour should be surrounded by a thin film of water; a white, powdery ker- nel of unmixed flour is sometimes seen in bread when this is not done. Adding a little salt not only causes the dough to rise better in the oven, but probably it enables the albuminous matter to set more readily, and thus helps to prevent the inflated dough from collapsing before the baking is complete. It also BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 263 acts as a condiment and supplies the system witii hydruchloric acid and soda which are insufficiently supplied by natural foods. In leavened bread the dough is subjected to fermentation before it is baked, by introducing leaven or yeast. The yeast cells, which are very much smaller than the grains of flour and are dissolved in the water or milk, should be brought into contact with every part of the flour, and by the kneading, a small quantity of air is introduced which favors the subsequent fermentation. When the yeast is well mixed in, the action of fermentation is set up equally in all parts of the mass, but, if not well mixed, there will be an accumulation of gas in some places, and little or none elsewhere. After introducing the yeast the dough is set aside to ferment and it is put in a warm place because moderate heat stimulates the process — about 70° to 80° is right. During the process of fermentation millions of small bubbles of carbonic acid gas are generated, and these bubbles permeate the mass. These bubbles of gas, being very light, naturally rise, but they are held in by the tough, elastic and sticky gluten, and so they lift the whole mass and cause it to " rise " or increase in bulk. If it was not for this adhesive gluten, the gas would readily escape without lifting the bread, and it is because cornmeal and oatmeal lack gluten, and so are not "sticky " enough, that they do not make good bread. To have good bread, it should undergo 2 fermentations, (1) the saccharine (or sweet) fermentation, and (2) the vinous. It will smell a little like foaming beer in this stage. A third, or acetous fermentation would follow, but it should never be allowed to reach this stage. Should this happen, it can be remedied by add- ing 1 teaspoon of soda for each qt. of water or 4 qts. of flour used, because soda being an alkali, will neutralize any acid which has been generated, but the bread will not afterward be as healthful or nutritious. Bread raised but once is coarse of grain but sweet to the taste. The risen dough is baked in an oven at a temperature varying between 320° and 572°; the alcohol and carbonic acid gas are expelled, the yeast germs are (or should be) destroyed by the heat, and various chemical changes are effected. The starch granules are mostly ruptured and intimately connected with the gluten, a portion of the starch near the surface is converted into dextrin, and a little cara- mel is usually produced. It is this conversion of the starch into dextrin which makes the crust more easily digested than the center — a fact which some people do not understand. This turning of the starch to dextrin is the same thing which takes place when bread is toasted, as we have explained under toast. More of the starch is turned to dextrin in the crust than in the center because it is heated more. The evapora- tion of the water inside the loaf while baking, keeps down the temperature there to about 212°. Some time before the cooking is complete the generation of carbonic acid gas will stop, but by that time a hard crust should be formed which will prevent the dough from falling. Flour mixed with water and baked, without being made to " rise" by using yeast or baking powder, would be solid and almost impenetrable by the digestive fluids, and therefore very indigestible, but the expansion caused by the carbonic acid gas separates the particles of gluten, and leaves the bread full of little holes, into which the digestive fluids readily enter, and so attack the bread in every part. It will be seen that, as a result of the foregoing processes, bread differs in many important respects from the flour from which it is made. In leavened bread the albumen is coagulated, the starch cells are ruptured, a portion of the starch is turned to sugar, and part of that is decomposed into carbonic acid gas and alco- hol, and part is turned to dextrin and maltose, and a little caramel is often pro- duced. The alcohol generated by decomposing the sugar is all evaporated before the bread is fully baked. YEAST. THREE HOUR YEAST — Take 1 cup of flour, -| cup of sugar, 3 tablespoons of salt; pour over this 1 pint of boiling water; let it cool, then add 1 cup of hop yeast. After this gets light, take 3 qts. of mashed boiled potatoes, and 3 qts. of warm water and add to the 264 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. other. It will be ready for use the next day. Then 1 qt. of this yeast and 1 qt. of warm water will make 6 loaves of bread. With this yeast, bread will rise in 3 hours and the bread can be baked the same day, which is quite an advantage. HOP YEAST. — Take 1 qt. of water, steep a small handful of hops in it, and when it has boiled for a few minutes strain this water on 6 grated potatoes; then boil them until clear, say 20 minutes, stirring all the time; if the potatoes are large, and the paste becomes too thick, add a little more water; while it is boiling, stir in ^ cup of sugar and a tablespoon of salt; when it has cooled so that it is luke- warm, add a teacup of yeast; let it rise over night, then stir it down, and put in the yeast jar; cover tightly and set it in the cellar. This yeast usually keeps 2 weeks in hot weather, and longer in cold. A coffee-cup of this yeast, and 2 qts. of warm water or milk, with a little salt, and lard or butter, will make 6 or 8 loaves of bread, according to the size of the pans. POTATO BALL YEAST.— Take a pint of finely mashed boiled potatoes and have it as dry as possible; add 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 1 tablespoon of salt. Soak 1 fresh yeast cake in as little water as possible, and when the potato is cool add the yeast; mix thorough- ly, and set it in a cool place for 2 or 3 days. When you wish to set bread to rise, have about as much fresh mashed potato, with sugar and salt added, as you took at first; mix this thoroughly with the first, then divide it in half; roll up one half in a ball for the next baking; add the other half to water sufficient for sponge for the bread. MILK YEAST OR RISING — Take 1 pint of new milk; in the morning add ^ teaspoon of salt; stir in, and beat for | minute, 2 tablespoons of flour; then place the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, and where it will keep warm, but not hot (about 110°). It takes about 5 hours for it to rise. Instead of milk, water is some- times used, and then it is called salt=rising. Mix the rising with a quart of warm water and a little salt; make a stiff sponge, and let it rise again; then mold and put in the pans to bake. YEAST CAKES — Take common home=made yeast, and when the fermentation ceases stir in enough cornmeal to make a dough. Roll out, cut in squares, and dry thoroughly. Do not dry in the oven as the heat will kill the yeast germs; choose a dry day to make them, and dry in the shade rather than in the sun. Keep them where it is shady, but where the air circulates freely; they will keep indefinitely. BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 265 On examining yeast under a microscope it is found to consist of a collection of small oval cells, of a vegetable nature, known as yeast cells, or yeast plant. It is really a living plant, and if this was well understood many mistakes in its use could be avoided. Extremes of heat and cold kill it, and an unfavorable tempera- ture will check its active growth, even though it may not be hot or cold enough to kill or prevent its growing in future under more favorable conditions. The better the food suits the yeast the faster it grows. Rough usage will also prevent its growth. Under favorable conditions it grows very fast, as much as will lie on a 25 cent piece will fill a cup in 1 or 2 hours. Given a little good yeast and any amount more can be grown. People talk about keeping yeast, but it is only kept as one year's corn is kept to be sown for the next year's crop. Yeast as it grows converts into sugar some of the starch with which it comes in contact, and this sugar it decomposes into alcohol and carbonic acid gas, and it is to this action that it owes its value, because the carbonic acid gas thus formed will permeate the mass and cause it to "rise." The yeast plant can live in a temperature ranging between 30° and 170°, but it thrives best between 70° and 80°. Good yeast is yellow, or greyish yellow in color; the more brown it is the more dead germs there are. A blue line sometimes appears; it is due to mold, and bread made from such yeast will soon become moldy. Yeast with a pungent odor, and which is foamy and full of bubbles is good; if it has an acid odor and looks watery it has spoiled. Potato starch is the best for the growth of the yeast plant, and old potatoes are preferable to new for the reason that there is more sugar in them. If all the starch cells in the flour or potato. used are broken by boiling, the yeast acts on them more readily. Salt and sugar are added to aid the fermentation. The oflQce of hops or ginger when used is to keep the yeast from souring, which they do by stopping the fermentation before all the sugar is decomposed into alcohol, and if too much is not used they give it a pleasant flavor. Tin or iron vessels may turn the yeast dark, but this can be prevented by mixing with a wooden spoon in an earthen vessel, and boiling the potatoes and hops in a non=metallic kettle, either granite or porcelain lined. Of the 3 kinds of yeast in common use — liquid, dry and com- pressed — each has its advantages, and any kind is good which makes good bread. BAKING POWDEE. 8 ounces cream of tartar. 4 ounces of cornsstarch. 4 ounces baking soda, Powder the ingredients and sift them together several times, as- the chief danger of failure lies in not having them well mixed. This baking powder will do all that can be done by any baking powder on the market. The U. S. Department of Agriculture has fully tested and recommends this powder, their chemist saying in his report: " The consumer can pay full retail price for the ingredients and still make it up for about -J the price at which a good baking powder is sold, and if she makes sure of the quality of her cream of tartar, she will have an article of which the purity is assured I can see no reason why all housekeepers should not make their own baking powder." Baking powder should always be mixed with the flour before adding the other ingredients. The action of baking powder consists in the fact that when wet with water the alkali (soda) and the acid (cream of tartar) of which it is composed, will effervesce, and in so doing will give off carbonic acid gas; this operates in the same way as the gas generated by yeast — that is, it permeates the mass of dough and causes it 266 BKEADS to "rise" or swell up. The action of the baking powder will soon be over, how- ever, and if the bread or pastry is not baked at once, the gas which it generates will escape, the dough will settle down in a solid mass, and the whole value of the powder will be lost. To succeed when using baking powder or soda 2 things are essential: (1) The baking powder (or soda and cream of tartar) must be thoroughly and perfectly mixed with the flour. (2) After the raising agencies have been wet so that they begin to work, push the operation rapidly to completicJn; and when all is ready bake without delay. After the soda and acid are mixed to form the baking pow- der they do not act on each other as long as they are kept dry; the only reason for adding starch or flour is to absorb moisture and keep them dry. As soon as they are wet the action begins. Baking powder can be made by using only 3^ as much starch as we give in the above formula, or with even less; the powder will then be a little stronger, but it will not keep as well, so that for ordinary use we prefer the proportions there given. If you cannot get pure cream of tartar use tartaric acid instead, as that is less often adulterated. It answers the same purpose, but use only ^ as much. People as a rule will not tire of yeast bread as quickly as they will of soda bread, and inferior materials can be used with yeast better than with baking powder. BREADS. The Time to Bake Bread is | to 1 hour, but it is better to bake 10 minutes longer than not enough. WHITE BEEAD. Take 1^ quarts of milk and scald it till the top is covered with a thin skin, by setting it over a good fire in a double boiler; then pour it out and let it cool after adding 1 oz. butter; now add 1 cake com- pressed yeast dissolved in 1 cup lukewarm water. After it has pooled, add 1 tablespoon of salt,, and about 1^ quarts of flour (or enough to make a good batter) and for 5 minutes beat energetically; then set it in a warm place to rise over night, covering it with a cloth. The next morning early, while it is still in the bowl, work in with the hand about 4 pints of flour (or enough to form a good dough); then take it out on to the bread=board and knead 15 or 20 minutes. Sufficient kneading is essential to the quality of the bread, so work it till the dough is soft and the gas thoroughly distributed through it. Then put it back in the bowl and set it in a warm place till it becomes quite light (about 3 hours probably). Shape into loaves and put into the pans, and bake when risen, pricking with a fork to let out any gas within the loaf. Time to bake, 50 to 60 minutes. WATER BREAD. Mix together 1^ quarts of bread flour and 1 teaspoon of salt; rub in 1 teaspoon of butter until fine like meal. Soak a whole yeast cake BREADS 267 in ^ cup of lukewarm water, and mix the liquid with the dry mix- ture; add enough more flour to make it stiff enough to knead, and, when well kneaded, place it in a bowl, cover it well and set it to rise for 3 hours; then cut it down, shape into loaves, place in buttered pans, let it rise again, and bake about 50 minutes. If the bread is set to rise at night, use ^ of a yeast cake, but, as we elsewhere ex, plain, the latest investigations point to a quick rising as best. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. Scald 1 pint milk, add ^ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt; after it has cooled, add 1 yeast cake dissolved in ^ cup of lukewarm water, and 4-| cups of fine granulated wheat; mix well with a broad knife or spoon; cover, and set it to rise for about 3 hours, or until it doubles its bulk; then cut it down, turn it into buttered pans, let it rise again, and bake about 50 minutes, Whole or entire wheat bread is mixed soft, or only stiff enough to handle with a spoon or knife. Entire wheat bread is more crumbly than white wheat bread. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD No. 2. Take 4 even cups of entire wheat flour, and 1 cup plain white flour (before sifting), ^ of a compressed yeast cake (dissolve it in lukewarm water), 1 tablespoon of butter (before melting), ^ cup of molasses; stir in lukewarm milk and water to make it less stiff than for white bread; beat and stir, but do not knead it; turn into a greased bakingspan, let stand till light, and bake nearly an hour. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD WITH BAKING POWDER. Take 2 pints flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 1 saltspoon of salt; mix thoroughly, and then stir in 2 cups cold water; turn into a well greased baking=pan and bake 1 hour. HALF AND HALF BREAD. A very nice bread is made by using 3 cups each of white flour and granulated or entire wheat flour; add the other ingredients and mix as directed in the last recipe. Entire wheat is sometimes called graham, but is not exactly the same, as it has all the nutritive part of the grain without the silica in the bran, which is like pow- dered glass, and often irritates the stomach and intestinal canal. Always buy the best graham and entire wheat, as the cheaper grades may be sittings mixed with third rate flour. Before measuring entire wheat flour, sift it, not to remove the bran, but to make it lighter; if unsifted, the measurements will not be accurate. If grahana or entire wheat bread is moistened with molasses, do not set it to rise over night, for you will then surely have an acetous fermentation. As entire wheat flour is much more nutritious than clear white flour, its more extended use is very desir- able. MILK BREAD. Take 2 cups scalded milk, in which melt 1 tablespoon butter; add 268 BREADS 1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar; when cool add ^ cup yeast, and stir in just flour enough to knead it well — about 6 to 7 cups. Knead well, cover, let rise till light; cut down, divide into 4 parts, shape into loaves or biscuit, put into pans, let rise again, and bake. Time to bake, 40 to 50 minutes. BAKING-POWDER BREAD. Sift together thoroughly 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, ^ tea- spoon sugar, and 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder. Then add enough water to make a stiff dough (about 2 cups, more or less, ac- cording to the flour) and stir it together quickly with a large spoon; then turn it immediately into a well greased, brick=shaped baking- pan, and bake at once for f hour in a hot oven, covering with paper the first \ hour, to prevent its crusting over too soon. Have the oven heated right before beginning to mix the bread, and have the pan greased and ready. ONCE^RAISED BREAD. Have the bread=bowl warm, if it is an earthen one, and the weather cold; put a piece of butter in it the size of an egg, and a tablespoon of salt; then pour over it a qt. of hot milk and water; stir cold flour into it, until it is a batter that can be beaten with a spoon, and beat well for a minute; then add a cake of compressed yeast mixed with a little cold water. The batter at this time should be lukewarm; wait a little for it to cool if it is too hot, but the cold flour usually makes it just right; beat in the yeast another minute, then place a pan of flour on the back part of the stove, put both hands in it and stir constantly from the bottom of the pan, until the flour feels warm all through; then stir into the batter enough to make a stiff dough — cutting in the flour with the spoon — do not knead it; put a little flour on the top and press it down flat all around the spoon with the back of the fingers. Set the bowl or pan over a kettle or tin pail 6i hot water on the cooking table, cover with a cloth, and let it rise up light, which will be in 3 hours; stir dov/n once, let it come up again, take it on the molding-board, with a little flour, and knead 10 minutes; make in 3 small loaves, let them rise to "twice their former bulk, and bake nearly an hour. Bread mixed in this way, as late as 10 o'clock, will be out of the oven by 3 in the afternoon, making a delicious bread with little trouble. MILK, OR SALT RISING BREAD. Early in the morning (the earlier the better) mix in a pitcher a joint of warm water, or \ water and \ new milk, with flour enough to BREADS 269 make a thin batter. Put the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, and keep it at an even heat — about 70° to 80°. Cover the pitcher with a saucer, and in about 5 hours it will begin to rise (not frothy, like hop yeast, but with very fine bubbles); then add 1 qt. water with a little more salt, and mold in flour to make a soft dough, and put it in 3 brick^shaped baking=tins to rise. When it has risen to nearly twice its bulk in the pans, it is ready to bake. This bread requires great care in making, and much time. It gives off a disagreeable gas while rising, but that is all driven off in the baking, leaving a fine= grained, most delicious bread. BUTTERMILK BREAD. Take 2 cups sour buttermilk, warm it, and add 1 cake of yeast and 1 teaspoon soda (scant); add 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter and form to a soft dough with warm flour; knead well, let it rise, knead again, put in greased tins, let rise and bake about 1 hour, BROWN BREAD 2 cups cornmeal. 1 cup graham flour. 1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup rye meal, 1 cup molasses. 1 cup water. A little salt. Bake 2 hours in a covered tin. BROWN BREAD No. 2. 2 cups sweet milk. 4 cups cornmeal. 1 cup molasses. 2 teaspoons salt, scant. 2 cups sour milk. 2 cups flour. ^ cup sugar. 2 teaspoons soda. Steam 3 hours, and bake ^ hour. BROWN BREAD No. 3. 3 cups sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 2 cups cornmeal. 1 cup graham flour, ^ cup molasses. A little salt. Steam 3 hours and bake ^ hour. If the milk is very sour, use ^ sweet milk. BROWN BREAD No, 4, 1 cup sour milk. f cup wheat flour, 2 cups graham flour. 2 tablespoons brown sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 1 large teaspoon soda. ^ cup molasses, scant. Steam 2-| hours, and bake ^ hour in a slow oven. BOSTON BROWN BREAD, Take 1 cup each of cornmeal, rye meal and graham meal; mix all 270 BREADS three together; mix in 1 cup molasses, 3 cups rich sour milk, 1 des- sertspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Put it in a covered pail, leaving room for it to rise, set it in a kettle of cold water, putting a ring un- der the pail to keep it from burning; boil 4 hours, and do not once et the water stop boiling, and do not remove the cover till done. BOSTON BROWN BREAD No. 2. Take 2 cups cornmeal, and the same of either rye or graham flour; sift together with 1 teaspoon salt; add 1 cup molasses, f cup sour milk or cream, 1 teaspoon soda (dissolved in a little boiling water); mix all well and add 2^ cups cold water; pour into a well greased pan and steam 4 hours. It will look thin when ready to steam, but will come out all right. CORN BREAD. Warm 1 pint of milk, stir in enough cornmeal to make a thin batter, add ^ cup shortening, 3 eggs, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder; heat the tins it is to be baked in, and bake quickly. It is splendid, and bakes promptly. As a rule corn bread requires a longer time to bake than either graham or wheat bread. CORN BREAD No. 2. Mix ^ cup cornmeal with 1 cup white flour, and add 1 teaspoon salt. Beat together till light, 1 egg and 2 tablespoons sugar; add 3 tablespoons melted butter, and f cup sweet milk; then stir in the above flour mixture, beat smooth and add 2 teaspoons baking pow- der. Put into greased pans, and bake ^ hour in a moderately quick oven, STEAMED CORN BREAD, Take 2 cups sour milk, 2 cups cornmeal, ^ cup white flour, 4 tablespoons molasses, 2 teaspoons soda, a little salt; steam 1^ hours, and bake ^ hour, WHITE CORN BREAD (Southern). 2 cups white cornmeal, 1 teaspoon salt. 1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon sugar. 1 tablespoon baking powder. Butter size of an egg. Use milk or water to make a soft dough; bake in a loaf, or if preferred, in shallow baking=tins. KENTUCKY EGG CORN BREAD. Take 2 pints cornmeal, 3 cups buttermilk, 1 or 2 eggs, 1 tea- spoon soda (scant), 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon lard; mix well, and bake quickly. BREADS 271 RICE BREAD. Boil 1 lb. rice till tender in water or milk (milk is best) and mash it; then with the hands, rub the rice into 4 lbs. flour, in the same manner that butter is rubbed in, mixing it thoroughly; add 8 teaspoons sugar, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 cake compressed yeast dis- solved in 2 pints lukewarm milk or water, have the dough soft to the touch, knead thoroughly, and let it rise, then knead again thor- oughly, form into loaves, put into greased pans, let rise, and bake in a good oven. Excellent, especially if made with mill^ CAROLINA RICE BREAD. Take 3 welhbeaten eggs, add 3 cups sweet milk, 2 cups white corn- meal, ^ pint cold boiled rice; 1 tablespoon butter, melted, 1 teaspoon salt; beat together well, and add 1 tablespoon baking powder; mix all thoroughly, put in greased pans, and bake ^ hour. GRAHAM BREAD. 3 cups sour milk. 1 cup molasses, 2 teaspoons soda. 1 egg. 1 teaspoon salt. Graham flour to make a stiff dough; bake slowly. GRAHAM BREAD No. 2. Make a stiff batter of 1 cup warm water thickened with graham flour; add to it ^ cup of yeast; let it rise over nightj in the morning add a small piece of butter, ^ cup sugar, and wheat flour to mold; put it in well greased pans, let it rise, and bake slowly 1 hour. Gra- ham bread bakes slower than white bread. GLUTEN BREAD. Scald 2 cups milk and*add, when lukewarm, 1 teaspoon salt and ^ cup good yeast; make it to a thick batter by adding gluten flour, and beat thoroughly; add the well beaten whites of 2 eggs, and enough flour to make a soft dough. Knead (without adding more flour), let stand until light; turn into well greased pans, let rise again, and then bake in a moderate oven | hour. OATMEAL BREAD. Boil 2 cups oatmeal as for porridge, add ^ teaspoon salt, and when cool, ^ cup molasses, and ^ a yeast cake or ^ cup yeast; stir in enough wheat flour to make as stiff as it can be stirred with a spoon; put it into 2 well greased tin pans, and let stand in a warm place till very light; bake about 1^ hours. Do not cut until the day after it is baked. This will make delicious thin slices; butter each slice before cutting it from the loaf, and then cut as thin as possible with a very sharp knife. 272 BEEADS RYE BREAD. Bread made of bolted rye flour is made in the same manner as white wheat bread; that made from rye meal is made according to recipes for graham bread. Rye bread is often made with 4 parts rye flour, 1 part cornmeal, and a handful of wheat flour. It should bake 2 or 3 hours in a slow oven ; or steam it 2 hours, and then bake 1 hour. PUMPKIN BREAD. Make a plain corn=bread batter; beat into it 1 cup of stewed pumpkin (that left from dinner will do). Bake in either the bread pan or in gem tins. SQUASH BREAD. Take 1 cup stewed and sifted squash, and mix in 2 tablespoons of sugar and 1 teaspoon salt; melt 1 tablespoon butter in 1^ cups scalded milk, and when lukewarm, add f cup yeast, and flour enough to knead; knead ^ hour, let rise till light; knead again, put it into greased tins, let rise again, and bake. UTILIZING STALE BREAD. (1) Bread crumbs can be utilized in so many ways that every piece of stale bread and the ends of loaves should be saved and pre- pared for use in the various dishes which call for bread crumbs. (2) Put the stale bread on a bakings tin, and set it on the shelf in the oven where it will dry and slightly brown; when thoroughly crisp, place it on the molding=board, roll it finely, and keep it in a jar well covered. These are dried bread crumbs and should not be used for scalloped dishes or bread puddings, as they absorb so much moisture. (3) Stale bread crumbs can be made into griddle cakes; or used in an omelet; or used with stewed tomatoes, and in many ways. Steamed Stale Bread. — When bread or biscuit become very dry they may be steamed a few minutes, which will make them very palat- able. Stale pieces can be freshened by dipping them in water, and putting them for a few minutes in a moderately hot oven. A stale whole loaf can be freshened in this way without first dipping in water, although many cooks are not aware of it; for this purpose the oven should not be too hot — say 260° to 300° is best. The steam which is generated opens out the pores which had shrunk together. Or put a stale loaf in a deep pan, cover with another pan, and set in a moderate oven 20 minutes; then take from the pan and set on end to cool; it will cut like a fresh loaf. BISCUITS 273 BISCUITS. Time to Bake Biscuits, about 10 to 20 minutes. BAK1NQ=P0WDER BISCUITS — Have the oven hot to begin with, then rub a piece of butter the size of an English walnut into a cup of flour ^ and butter your bakings tins Next put a level tea- spoon of salt, and two heaping teaspoons of baking powder in the flour, and stir it well. Up to this time you can work leisurely, but from this onward, work as fast as you can " fly." Add a cup of sweet milk, stir it, and add enough more flour to make a soft dough; take it out onto the molding^board, and form it quickly into a round mass; cut it in 2 parts, then 4, then 8; give the pieces just a roll in the floured hands, put it in the tin, and bake 8 or 10 minutes. The oven should brown them top and bottom in that time. Everybody likes them. CREAM BISCUIT. — To 1 quart of flour use 2 teaspoons baking powder a pinch of salt, and rich sweet cream to make a soft dough. Bake in a quick oven. BEAT BISCUIT. — Take 2 quarts of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ta- blespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of lard rubbed in the flour; mix to a stiff dough with water. Beat with the rolling-pin until perfect- ly light, turning and folding as you work; do not cut the dough, but break off pieces and form into little biscuits, and bake in a quick oven. ENTIRE WHEAT BEAT BISCUIT — Take 1 quart whole wheat flour, 3 rounded tablespoons lard, 4 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup each of water and milk; mix thoroughly, lay it on the molding-board, and beat with the rolling=pin until it ceases to be sticky; roll out, cut into biscuits (be sure and thoroughly prick each one), and bake f hour in a moderate oven. For Wafers take some of the dough so prepared, roll thin, but- ter it, beat again, roll very thin, cut out, and bake. RAISED BISCUIT — Set a sponge of 2 cups milk, a little salt and ^ cake compressed yeast, and let»it rise; beat butter the size of an egg with 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 egg ; stir them into the sponge, adding flour to make a stiff batter; stir well, let it rise, and when light, take dough enough with a spoon for each biscuit, work light- ly into shape, put in a pan, let rise, and bake. MILK BISCUIT.— Eub | lb. butter and 1 saltspoon of salt into 2^ lbs. flour; add 1 cup yeast and enough boiled milk (have it 18 274 BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. lukewarm when used) to make a tolerably stiff dough; knead well, let it rise over night, knead again in the morning, put into greased tins, let rise, and bake in a quick oven. BUTTERMILK BISCUIT.— Sift 4 cups flour, add 1 teaspoon salt, and rub in 1 tablespoon lard, and 1 tablespoon butter; make into a soft dough with buttermilk, roll out, cut out, and bake quickly. DROP BISCUIT — Take 1 cup milk, 1 level teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon baking pov/der stirred into 1 cup flour; beat all together, and add enough flour to make a stiff batter. Drop in spoonfuls on a buttered tin, and bake quickly in a hot oven. Drop Biscuit No. 2. — Take 1 quart flour, add 1 tablespoon sugar, ^ teaspoon salt, 3 heaping teaspoons baking powder, and milk sufiicient to form a stiff batter. Drop in spoonfuls on a buttered tin, and bake in a very quick oven. SHORTCAKE BISCUIT — To 4 cups flour use 1 large tablespoon butter, a little salt, 3 teaspoons baking powder (heaped), and milk enough to rcl^ out as soft as possible. SODA BISCUIT. — Into 4 cups sifted flour sift 1 teaspoon soda, 2 teaspoons cream tartar and 1 teaspoon salt; rub in with the hand 1 tablespoon lard or butter; make it into a soft dough with sweet milk. GRAHAM BISCUIT. — LTse 2 cups graham flour, 2 cujjs wheat flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 tablespoons molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 2 teaspoons cream of tartar (or 8 teaspoons baking powder instead), a little salt; sift the last 3 ingredients into the wheat flour, add the graham flour, rub into the butter thoroughly, moisten with milk or water to make a dough just stiff enough to roll out; roll thin, cut in small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Double this recipe if the family requires it. TUTTI FRUTTI BISCUIT — Mix bits of fruit liberally into the dough of common soda biscuit before baking it, as fruit is put into cake; very nice. Tea rolls are nice with fruit put in in the same way. BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. BUNS. Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. PLAIN — Use 1 quart flour, 1 large cup warm milk, \ cup butter or lard, ^ teaspoon salt, ^ cup sugar, ^ a grated nutmeg, ^ a yeast cake (or | cup yeast), 2 eggs; dissolve the butter in the milk, beat BUNS, KUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 275 the eggs separate, add all to the flour; the dough should be very soft; knead well, let rise over night, and in the morning break into pieces the size of a large egg, work them into rather flat cakes, put them on a buttered pan, about ^ inch apart, let rise to double size, then cut a cross on top of each bun (not too deep) with a sharp knife, and bake in a moderate oven about 25 minutes. ENGLISH BUNS. — Use f teacup butter rubbed into 1 pint flour, "I cup sugar, ^ cup Zante currants washed and dried, 1 level teaspoon salt, 2 cups new milk, -g cup good yeast; mix all together, and add enough flour to mold into a soft dough, let rise till light, mold down again, keeping the dough as soft as possible, roll out, and cut with a biscuit cutter. Let them rise till very light in the bak- ing^tins, and bake until they are a nice yellowish brown on top and bottom — about 25 minutes. Brush them over to glaze with a little sugar and milk mixed, and return to the oven till the glazing dries. CINNAMON BUNS — Rub ^ teacup butter into a cofiPee cup of flour; add a little salt, and a heaping teaspoon of baking powder; then add a coffee cup of sweet milk, and enough flour to roll out into a large thin sheet. Spread with soft butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, roll up, and cut into buns. Bake about 20 minutes. RUSKS. Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. PLAIN. — Into 1 quart of flour rub a piece of butter the size of a large egg; beat 2 eggs well, add 2 cups warmed new milk, flavor with a little cinnamon, and add ^ teacup of fresh yeast; mix thoroughly with the flour, but do not mold; let it rise, and add a little more flour if too thin to mold, cut in pieces the size of biscuits, knead each one separately, place in a buttered pan, let rise till quite light and bake. BAKING POWDER RUSK.— Sift 2 tablespoons sugar, | teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon baking powder into 3 cups flour, and then rub in 2 tablespoons cold lard; add 2 well=beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 1 teaspoon each cinnamon and nutmeg extract; mix into a dough soft enough to handle, and turn out on the molding^board; turn quickly once or twice to smooth it, break off pieces about the size of an egg, roll into small balls with the hand, and lay close together in a well greased baking-tin. Wash over the top, to glaze it, with a little milk and melted butter mixed; bake ^ hour in a moderate oven. Sift fine white sugar on top when cold. BRIOCHES. Dissolve \ a yeast cake in ^ teacup of lukew^arm water; mix 276 BUNS, KUSKS, KOLLS, ETC. with enough flour to make a thick sponge, cover with a cloth, and let rise in a warm place till it doubles in bulk; then add ^ teacup milk, 5 eggs, 1 saltspoon salt, and -J lb. dissolved butter; beat all together well, add flour to make a dough, and let rise again 1 to 1| hours; then turn on to the molding=board, flour as little as possible, and roll the sides over into the middle several times. Then form into tiny loaves, laying 1 flattened ball of dough onto a little larger loaf, making an indentation for it in the center of the lower one with the thumb. Brush over with white of egg, and bake in a quick oven — about ^ hour. ROLLS. Time to Bake rolls, 10 to 20 minutes. FRENCH ROLLS. — Rub 1 ounce butter in 1 quart flour; mix in 1 beaten egg, a little yeast, and as much milk as will make a rather stiff batter; beat well, but do not knead, let rise, and then bake in tins. Very nice. COFFEE ROLLS — Take 1 quart of light dough, mix in 1 tablespoon of lard and ^ cup of sugar; then roll thinner than biscuit, spread with butter, sugar and cinnamon, and sprinkle a little flour over. Roll up 2 turns and cut off, standing them on end in the tin; let rise, and bake in a quick oven. GRAHAM ROLLS. — Mix 4 cups graham flour with enough milk to make a stiff batter; add ^ cup good yeast and let rise over night; in the morning add 1 large tablespoon sugar, 2 eggs, butter size of an egg, ^ teaspoon soda, and a little salt; put it in cups and let stand 20 minutes before baking. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS — Make a hole in 2 quarts of flour, and pour in 1 pint of milk which has been boiled and ^ cup butter or lard melted in it and allowed to cool; add ^ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and ^ cup good yeast; let it stand over night without mixing; in the morning, mix and knead; let rise till after dinner, when knead again, roll ^ inch thick, cut out, and let rise till baked. Bake about ^ hour. CRACKERS. PLAIN. — Into 2 quarts flour rub well with the hand 1 cup butter, and 1 teaspoon salt; wet with cold water, beat thoroughly with the rolling-pin, and work in flour enough to make quite brittle and hard; then pinch off pieces, and if you want them to look like baker's crackers, roll each piece separately. JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. 277 CORN=STARCH CRACKERS.— Sift together 3 cups flour, 1 cup corn^starch, ^ teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon baking powder; rub into this 1 tablespoon lard, and add 1 cup sweet milk, mixing it to a smooth dough; slightly flour the bread^board, turn out the dough, and get it into smooth and even form with as little kneading as possible; then spread a clean towel over it and let it stand 10 minutes. Then roll very thin with the rolling-pin, cut with the cutter, prick with a fork, and put them on a greased bakings tin; wash the top of the crackers over with milk, and bake 8 minutes in a very hot oven. These make a delightful accompani- ment for salads. GRAHAM CRACKERS. — Sift 1 heaping teaspoon baking pow- der and 1 even teaspoon salt into 4 cups sifted graham flour; rub in ^ cup butter or lard, and make into a stiff dough with sweet milk or cold water; knead 10 minutes, using white flour to prevent its adher- ing to the board; roll thin, cut in squares, and bake in a moderate oven. TO FRESHEN CRACKERS.— Stale crackers may be freshened by putting them in the oven for a few minutes. It is not necessary to moisten them. GKAHAM DIAMONDS. To 4 cups graham flour add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and pour on boiling water to scald thoroughly; work into a soft dough, roll out -| inch thick, cut into diamonds with a sharp knife, and bake 3U minutes in a quick oven, or till crisp. JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. JOHNNY CAKE. Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. Use 1 cup sour milk, 3 tablespoons molasses, 1 egg, ^ teaspoon soda; add cornmeal sufficient to make a thin batter. POTATO JOHNNY CAKE — To 2 cups finely mashed potatoes add 2 cups flour in which has been mixed -J cup of lard; add milk enough to mix, and ^ teaspoon salt; roll out and bake in a well heated oven. Butter and eat hot. Johnny Cake, No. 3. — Use 1 egg, \ cup sugar, a little salt, 1 cup milk, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, ^ teaspoon soda, 1 cup cornmeal, 1 cup white flour; bake in a shallow pan in a quick oven. 278 JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. Fruit with Johnny Cake. — Dried fruit, such as raisins, currants, etc., added to johnny cake, is a pleasant addition for a change. CORN AND GEAHAM JOHNNY CAKE. 3 good cups cornmeal. 3 tablespoons melted butter. 2 good cups graham flour. 2 heaping teaspoons soda. 1 good cup white flour. 1 good teaspoon salt. 3 eggs. 1 quart sour milk (part of which ^ cup molasses. may be sour cream if it is to be had). SPIDER CAKE. This, as the name implies, is baked in a spider, or short handled frying=pan. Beat 2 eggs very light, add 1 cup sour milk, and 1 cup sweet; stir into this 2 cups cornmeal, and a handful of flour, 1 table- spoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon each of salt and soda; mix, and beat thoroughly, and then pour it into the spider, which should be already hot and well greased. After the butter is in the spider, pour over it 1 cup sweet milk, but do not stir it into the hatter. Bake in a hot oven ^ hour. Take it from the pan onto a plate, being careful not to break it. RICE SPIDER CAKE — Use 1 cup boiled or steamed rice, 1 cup yellow cornmeal (the granulated is best), 2 cups sweet milk, 1 table- spoon sugar, 1 tablespoon baking powder, and 1 level teaspoon salt; mix all thoroughly, and add at least a handful of flour. After beat- ing in the flour, put the batter in a hot buttered spider, or short handled frying-pan, and bake in a hot oven | hour. The batter must be thin enough to " run " a little, but not as soft as for griddle cakes. If needed to make it thinner, when the flour is added, put in a little more milk; if too thin add a little more flour. FLORIDA CORN CAKE. 1 egg 1 teaspoon sugar. 1 cup milk or water. 2 cups white cornmeal. 1 tablespoon salt pork fat. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 1 teaspoon salt. Mix all thoroughly, and bake in 2 thin cakes. CORN PONE — Into 2 cups boiling meal mix 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar; scald with 2 cups boiling water, and let stand till it swells and becomes lukewarm; then add a ^ oz. cake of com- pressed yeast dissolved in a little cold water; if too stifp reduce it with warm water to a consistency sufficient to retain its form; then put it in the baking-pan, let rise 4 or 5 hours, and bake in a moderate JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. 279 oven till tliorouglily done. Pone should be eaten fresh and warm, but is very nice toasted, after it is a day old. FLORIDA PONE. — Mix 1 tablespoon of baking powder and 1 teaspoon salt, into 2 cups of white cornmeal. Mix with sufficient water to make a thick batter, and beat in a tablespoon of hot salt pork fat. Make in a thin cake, and bake until well browned. Deli- cious with meat. HOE CAKE. — Into a mixing^bowl put 4 cups white cornmeal and one teaspoon salt; make it to a stiff batter with hot water, stir- ring it all the time. Have a pan of cold water ready, moisten the hands, and then with the hands press a tablespoon of the batter into a round, thin cake. Bake on a griddle over the fire, or on an oak board before an open fire, thoroughly baking first one side and then the other. Pull apart when done, butter, and serve hot. BAKED BUCKWHEAT CAKES.— Mix in the mixing^bowl § cup buckwheat flour, 1 cup white flour, and 1 heaping teaspoon bak- ing powder; add ^ cup light brown sugar, 1 egg well beaten, and 8 tablespoons melted butter or lard; mix all together well, and add enough sweet milk to make a batter that will pour and spread slowly, but not as thin as for griddle cakes; hake in a deep tin in a rather hot oven, allowing plenty of room for it to rise. Eat hot with butter. Try this once and you will be surprised at its quality. By using corn- meal instead of the buckwheat a fine corn cake is made. CORN DODGERS. — Into a mixing^bowl put 1 pint white corn- meal; scald by adding just enough boiling water to moisten the meal, stirring it all the time; work in 1 tablespoon butter or lard, and when cool add 1 well-beaten egg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons milk; mix well, put by spoonfuls into a large, well greased baking= pan, and bake brown on both sides. INDIAN BANNOCK — Mix 1 cup boiling milk, | pint cornmeal, 1 teaspoon each of salt and sugar; when partially cooled, add 2 eggs, beaten separately; bake in a very hot oven in a shallow earthern dish; serve like a pudding, in the dish it is baked in. GREEN CORN PATTIES. — For every cup of grated green corn allow 1 egg, ^ cup of milk and 1 cup of flour; 1 teaspoon of baking powder should be well mixed with the flour. Stir all together until well mixed, then bake in buttered patty^pans. This recipe can be doubled, if the family to be served requires it. 280 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. Time to Bake, ^ to ^ hour, WHEAT GEMS — Beat 1 egg light, add 2 cups milk and 1 tea spoon salt, and gradually beat it into 2 cups wheat flour; put it into hot, well greased gem=pans, and bake about 20 minutes. ' Wheat Gems No. 2. — Use 2 cups sweet milk, 1 tablespoon butter 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt; flour to thicken. GRAHAM GEMS. — Use 2 cups sour milk, 8 cups graham flour ^ teaspoon soda; beat together a few minutes, drop it into hot greased, gem=pans, and bake in a quick oven 10 or 15 minutes. MUFFINS {White Flour). ■| cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 2| cups flour. 1 cup milk. 2 eggs. Butter the size of an egg. Bake in cups, or hot gem-pans. Muffins No. 2. — Into 3 cups flour sift 3 teaspoons baking powder, and a little salt; add 2 eggs and 2 cups milk; bake in a hot oven in rings or gem- tins. TEA MUFFINS — Work butter the size of an egg into 2 cups flour; add ^ ,i aspoon salt, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 2 even tea- spoons baking powder, and stir together thoroughly; beat 1 egg, add to it 1 cup milk, mix it with the flour quickly, and bake in a hot oven. This will make 1 cake in a brick=shaped baking^pan; then cut in squares with a hot knife. BUCKWHEAT MUFFINS.— To 1 pint of sour milk and cream mixed, add 1 even teaspoon each of salt and soda, and make a stiff batter with bu- v^heat flour. Bake in a square tin, in a hot oven, about \ hour; cut in squares, and serve hot, with fried salt pork, and milk gravy made in the fat. This can also be made with the pre- pared buckwheat flour, by making a stiff batter with sweet milk, salt and shortening; put in a hot gem-pan, and serve with butter, or milk gravy. A good breakfast dish. GRAHAM MUFFINS. 3 cups graham flour. ^ 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon salt. 2 tablespoons sugar. . Mix all together. Then take a piece of butter the size of an egg and put it into 1 pint of sweet milk; set it on the stove until the but- ter is melted; when cool, mix all together with 2 eggs, and bake. GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 281 GRAHAM MUFFINS No. 2. 2 cups graham flour. 1 tablespoon melted shortening. 1 cup white flour. 1 tablespoon sugar. 2^ cups sour milk. 1 tablespoon soda. Salt. CEREALINE MUFFINS.— Take If cups flour and sift in 1 tea- spoon salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar and 2 teaspoons baking powder. To 1 well beaten egg add ^ cup cold milk. Into 1 cup hot milk stir 1 cup of cerealine and add 2 teaspoons of butter. Stir all together, beat well, put into well buttered pans, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about 30 minutes. CORNMEAL MUFFINS.— Use 1 egg, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 cups granulated yellow cornmeal, 1 cup white flour, 1 level teaspoon salt, butter size of an egg, 2 teaspoons baking powder. Butter the gem- pan and have it hot before putting in the batter; bake ^ hour in a hot oven. Cornmeal Muffins No. 2. — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 cup corn- meal, 1 cup flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, ^ tablespoon butter, ■| teaspoon salt, milk to make a stiff batter. RAISED MUFFINS.— To 2 cups scalded milk, add butter or dripping the size of an egg, and 1 teaspoon salt; when lukewarm add ^ of a yeast cake dissolved in ^ teacup warm water, ^ | teacup of liquid yeast; add 1 egg and about 4 cups flour, or enough to make a batter that will drop easily, remembering that it is thinner after rising. Beat all well together, let rise till light, and bake in buttered muffin rings on a griddle, or in a gem=pan. Do not stir it down before baking; mix at night ion breafast, and in the morning for supper. RICE MUFFINS.— Use 1 cup cold boiled rice, 2 cups flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 quart milk, or enough to make a thin batter; bake quickly. RYE MUFFINS — Sift together 1 cup wheat flour, ^ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, ^ teaspoon soda, ^ teaspoon salt, add 1 cup rye meal (not flour); beat 1 egg, add 1 cup milk, add it to the other ingredients, beat well, put in hot, greased muffin tins, and bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. GLUTEN MUFFINS — To 1 egg, beaten light without separa- ting, add 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 pint gluten flour; beat well, add 2 teaspoons baking powder, pour into well greased, hot muffin rings, and bake in a quick oven ^ hour. ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS.— Mix together 1| cups wheat 282 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder; sift them into a bowl. Then beat 1 egg till light, and add 1 cup milk and ^ cup of water; pour this on to the first mixture, and beat rapidly and energetically. Have buttered muffin^pans ready, pour in the batter, and bake in a rather quick oven about 25 min- nutes. The batter will be thin, and the muffins moist, but that is right. ENGLISH CRUMPETS — In 3 cups lukewarm milk, put 1 salt- spoon salt, and ^ a yeast cake dissolved, or ^ cup liquid yeast; let rise till light, and add 2 tablespoons melted butter, and a trifle of flour to keep the batter from becoming too thin; stir in hard, 1 salt- spoon soda, let stand ^ hour, and bake in patty^pans, or muffin=rings. GRAHAM CRUMPETS.— Dissolve | cup butter in 1 quart scalded sweet milk, and when cool, add 1 cake compressed yeast (soaked in a litte water), 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar; add enough graham flour to make a rather stiff batter, and beat hard a few minutes; let rise over night in a warm place, and in the morning add 2 well=beaten eggs; put in buttered gem=tins, let rise till light, and bake in a moderate oven. SALLY LUNN. 2^ cups flour. ^ cup sugar. 1 egg well beaten. 3 tablespoons butter (melted). 1 cup sweet milk. 1^ teaspoons cream tartar. I teaspoon soda. Bake 20 minutes in muffin=rings, or in square pie^pans. CORNMEAL SCONES — Mix 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 tea- spoon salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar into 1 pint cornmeal; rub in with the hand 1 tablespoon butter; make it into a batter that will dro}^ from a spoon (not pour) with cold milk; bake like ordinary muffins in muffin=rings on a griddle. SCOTCH SCONES. — Into 2 cups flour sift 2 small teaspoons baking powder; rub in with the hand 4 tablespoons butter, adding a little milk to bind the paste; flour the bread=board and pin, roll out I inch thick, cut into small 3=cornered pieces with a sharp knife;' bake in a quick oven on a baking sheet, taking out as soon as they are lightly and evenly colored. OATMEAL CAKES — Use 2 cups of oatmeal, 2 tablespoons shortening (either butter, beef fat, or salt pork fat). Hub the fat into the meal; add cold water enough to make a dough. Mold until smooth, roll out thin, cut into rounds or squares, and bake quickly in a hot oven. GKIDDLE CAKES 283 Oatmeal Cakes No. 2. — Stir oatmeal with cold water, making a thick paste; salt to taste. Make into little round cakes, about ^ inch thick, in tin bake^pans, and bake in an oven not too hot. POP OVERS. — Usp 1 cup of milk, 1 cup flour, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon butter, a pinch of salt; beat the white and yolk of the egg separately until very light, then beat all well together, and bake in a quick oven. BREAKFAST PUFFS — Use 1 cup milk, 1| cups flour, 2 eggs, ^ teaspoon salt; beat 5 minutes, and bake in gem^pans. BREAD PUFFS. — Take light bread dough, roll out about -| inch thick, cut with a biscuit-cutter, drop into boiling lard, and turn over very quickly. GRIDDLE CAKFS. To Keep Buckwheat Batter Sweet — Cover with cold water the batter left after you are done baking cakes; drain it off carefully at night before stirring up fresh batter; the batter settles at the bottom, while the water absorbs the acid, thus keeping the batter sweet and fresh. A Substitute for Maple Syrup.— Take 2 cups light brown sugar and 1 cup of water and boil until a nice thick syrup; then flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla, when nearly cold. Nice with griddle cakes and hot biscuits. Use other flavoring if desired. Imitation Maple Syrup. — Boil clean corn cobs in water; then remove the cobs, add light brown sugar and boil to a nice, thick syrup. One can hardly tell it from genuine maple syrup. The cobs give the maple flavor. The syrup is delicious. Try it. Caramel Syrup, a recipe for preparing which we give among our " Pudding Sauces," is fine with griddle cakes. It is said that a common iron griddle, ground down smooth on a grindstone and then polished with fine sand paper on a flat piece of wood, is superior to a soapstone griddle, and can be used without grease. If buckwheat batter has a small spoonful of molasses added to it each morn- ing, it will give the cakes a fine brown color. Grease the griddle evenly, and do not leave pools of fat to burn and taint the cakes. Turn the griddle often, to Keep it evenly heated on all sides; have it hot enough, so the mixture hisses or sizzles as it touches it. Do not turn the griddle cakes more than once, as that will make them heavy. APPLE GRIDDLE CAKES — Put 1 cup finely^ chopped apple in 1 quart of any griddle cake batter; distribute it evenly by stirring with the spoon every time a spoonful is taken out. BUCKWHEAT CAKES.— Use 1 quart buckwheat flour, | cup cornmeal, 1 tablespoon salt, 4 tablespoons yetibt, 1 tablespoon mo- lasses (not syrup); mix with warm water enough to make a thin 284 GRIDDLE CAKES batter, and let rise over night in a warm place. If the batter is the least bit sour in the morning, a little soda should be eidded, and if not sour, a very little soda will make them more light and tender. QUICK BUCKWHEAT CAKES.— To 2 cups of buckwheat flour, add 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon brown sugar (or New Orleans molasses instead) ; when ready to bake, add 2 cups cold water, or enough to make a batter, stirring as little as possible after it is stirred smooth. Wheat flour, cornmeal, or graham flour, may be added, if desired. CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 pint cornmeal, | pint sour milk and 1 teaspoon soda in the milk, stirred until it foams, 2 eggs beaten until light, salt to taste; have the griddle hot and well greased. About 1 tablespoon of wheat flour added to the cornmeal is an improvement. Cornmeal Griddle Cakes No. 2. — Use 1 cup sweet milk, or cold water, 1 egg, 2 cups yellow cornmeal, ^ cup flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder. Strawberries and Griddle Cakes. — If you want a delightful dish, use hot cornmeal griddle cakes, strawberries, sugar and cream, and com- bine them sandwich fashion. STALE BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.— Soak 2 cups stale bread crumbs for 1 hour in 1 quart of milk which has been made boiling hot to pour over them; beat 2 eggs till light, yolks and whites sepa- rate; into the soaked bread^batter put first the beaten yolks, then 3 ounces flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 scant teaspoon salt; beat thoroughly, and then stir in very lightly 2 teaspoons baking powder and the beaten whites. Grease the griddle, and bake quickly in small cakes. These are about the lightest and most digestible grid- dle cakes that are made. OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 cup oatmeal, 1 cup flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, ^ teaspoon salt; sift the baking powder in with the flour; add cold water to make a batter the consistency of buckwheat cakes; beat together well, and bake immediately. GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES — Use i graham and ^ wheat flour; mix with sour milk, or buttermilk, and soda (1 small teaspoon soda to 1 quart milk); add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake immediately on a hot griddle. RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.— To 1 cup boiled rice add ^ cup milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons flour and a little salt; then WAFFLES . 285 beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them with the other ingredients and fry as soon as possible after they are added, on a hot, buttered griddle. These are light, digestible, and especially nice for invalids. RAISED GRIDDLE CAKES — At night scald 1 cup white corn- meal with 2 cups boiling water; while warm stir in 2 cups flour, 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons yeast; let it rise over night, and in the morning add 2 eggs, a little salt, and |- teaspoon baking powder; if too thin, add cornmeal till it is of the right consistency. SQUASH GRIDDLE CAKES — Into 1 cup boiled and sifted squash (use dry, mealy squash) pour ^ pint boiling milk; add 1 tablespoon sugar, 2 teaspoons butter, ^ teaspoon salt; let it cool and add 1 well^beaten egg, and 1 cup flour into which 2 teaspoons of bak- ing powder have been sifted. If too thick, thin with milk; add more flour if too thin. Pease Griddle Cakes can be made the same way, by using instead of the squash, 1 cu]3 pease which have been boiled, mashed, and passed through the squash strainer. FLANNEL CAKES.— Make a batter with i pint milk, and | pint flour with 1 teaspoon of soda sifted into it; beat in 1 teaspoon melted butter, a little salt, and 1 egg; add more milk if the batter is too thick; bake on a griddle. • WAFFLES. Grease the waffle iron thoroughly, as, if the waffles stick it is hard to clean. Use salt pork fat, or butter wrapped in a thin clean cloth. Heat the iron well, both sides, grease it and only fill about | full, leaving room for them to rise; cook one side a minute, then turn and cook the other. They will take longer to bake than griddle cakes. Butter as soon as done, and sprinkle on powdered sugar, or serve with lemon syrup, maple syrup or caramel sauce. WAFFLES NO. i. — Into 4 cups flour sift 2 teaspoons baking powder, and 1 teasjjoon each of sugar and salt; add 2 eggs, 1 table- spoon butter, and 1 cup either sweet or sour milk; if the later, use 1 teaspoon soda. No 2, — Use 2 cups buttermilk, flour enough to make* a rather thin batter, 1 teaspoon each of salt and soda, 1 egg; stir the milk, flour and salt together, sift the soda in the batter, beat yolk and 286 . MUSH, ETC. white separately, and add the white last. Have the waffle irons very hot, and well greased, before putting in the batter. Salt or water will cause the waffles to stick to the irons; the batter is also apt to stick if sour. If the milk is very sour a little more soda than the above can be used. Some people use sweet milk, and prefer it. RAISED WAFFLES.— To 2 cups of flour add 2 cups of milk and 5 tablespoons yeast; let rise over night, and in the morning add 2 teaspoons melted butter, ^ teaspoon salt, and 2 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately. CORN=STARCH WAFFLES.— Make a batter with 2 cups (heaped) corn^starch, 1 scant cup sugar, 2 eggs, a little lemon fla- vor, adding milk as needed; warm the molds, butter them out and fill; close them, place on the fire, then turn them over; repeat this until they are evenly baked: dust sugar over them when done. CORNMEAL WAFFLES.— Take the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, 2 pints sour milk or buttermilk, and enough cornmeal to make a bat- ter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; dissolve 1 teaspoon soda in warm water, stir it into the milk, and add a little salt. Use ^ wheat flour if they break in pieces while cooking. RICE WAFFLES. — Use 2 eggs, ^ cup boiled rice, 1^ cups flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, butter the size of a walnut, a little salt, 1^ cups milk; mix well and bake immediately. RICE AND CORNMEAL WAFFLES.— Use 2 well^^beaten eggs, f pint cold boiled rice, f pint cornmeal, ^ pint wheat flour, ^ tea- spoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 2 cups milk; beat together thoroughly before baking. MUSHES, ETC. As the grain of which mush is made is coarsely ground, in order to cook the starch properly and soften the cellulose, long boiling is required, Thorough cooking is the most important point connected with its preparation. CORNMEAL MUSH — Have the water coiling, and nothing short of boiling with sufficient salt in the water for seasoning. Stir the meal gradually, sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left hand while stirring with the right. Use a kettle with a rounding bottom. Do not make it too thick if it is to be eaten with milk, or with sugar and milk for dessert. If it is to fry, 1 or 2 handfuls of MUSHES 287 flour added at the last will improve it. Mush should cook very thor- oughly; after it is thickened enough, set it on top of the stove where it will cook slowly 1 or 2 hours; stir often. No 2. — Mix 1 cup cornmeal and 1 teaspoon salt to a paste with a little cold water; then pour on 2 pints boiling water, put it in a double boiler, and boil 4 or 5 hours. If the water cooks away add more boiling water from the teakettle. There is no danger of its burning in the double boiler. Anything will cook faster in the double boiler, if the water in the lower boiler is strongly salted. FRIED MUSH. — Put the mush in brick=shaped baking-tins used for bread, and when cold and solid cut in slices. The old way has been to fry the slices on a spider or on a griddle with salt pork fat. A better way is to cut the slices a little less than ^ inch thick; dip them in beaten egg, roll in cracker or bread crumbs, and fry like doughnuts in hot fat. Oatmeal or other mushes may be fried in the same way. GREEN CORN MUSH — Take corn on the cob when the milk is just set, grate it and make mush in the ordinary way; eat in milk. Excellent. OATMEAL MUSH — Put | pint oatmeal and 1 teaspoon salt into the double boiler; add 4 cups boiling water, set the upper part of the boiler 'on the stove and boil 4 or 5 minutes to start the cooking; then put it into the lower boiler and cook 3 to 5 hours; salting the water in the lower boiler makes it cook faster. It is often cooked so that the grains are whole, but it is not then so easily digested, nor so pleasant in flavor. It should be thin enough to pour when done, and should cool into a jelly=like consistency. Serve with sugar and cream, tart jelly, apple sauce or baked apples. Oatmeal with Figs. — Add to oatmeal 5 or 6 figs cut fine; cook in the usual way and serve with cream and sugar. GRAHAM MUSH — Use a little cold water and mix to a thin paste ^ pint graham flour and 1 teaspoon salt; stir in 4 cups boiling water, and cook like oatmeal mush, but it does not need to cook so long. Time to cook, about 20 minutes. Just before taking graham mush from the fire, stir in stoned dates, and you will find it makes a very nice pudding. BUCKWHEAT MUSH.— Mush made of buckwheat flour is made in the same way as cornmeal mush, but requires less cooking. When cold it can be fried, if desired, like cornmeal mush. 288 MUSHES QLUTEN MUSH. — Use 2 cups boiling water to 1 cup gluten; cook like graham musb. It does not thicken because it contains no starch. RYE MUSH.^ — Cook as directed for graham mush. It is served with molasses often. HOMINY MUSH.— Cook in a double boiler 3 or 4 hours as di- rected for oatmeal mush, using a little over 4 times its bulk of water, and salt to taste. (For the long cooking absolutely necessary with corn preparations, the double boiler is much the best thing to use.) It can be eaten in bowls with milk, or for dessert with hard sauce. When cold, it can be fried as directed for cornmeal mush. CRACKED WHEAT. — Pick over ^ pint cracked wheat, put it in a double boiler, add 1 teaspoon salt, and 3 cups boiling water, and cook it 2 or 3 hours. It cooks best in a double boiler. Serve with sugar and cream. It can, if desired, be poured into cups or jelly= molds, wet with cold water, and so molded. FARINA. — Into 2 cups boiling water, put ^ saltspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons farina; let it actually boil in a sauce=pan 20 minutes, or cook 1 hour in a double boiler. Serve with sugar and milk or cream. WHEATLET WITH DATES.— Into 4 cups boiling water put 1 teaspoon salt and stir in 1 cup wheatlet; cook it in the double boiler 30 minutes. Have 1 cup dates stoned and cut small, and stir them in just before serving. Serve with cream. QRANULA. — To 1 cup granula add 1 teaspoon salt, and 1^ cups boiling water, and boil 10 to 15 minutes; this is better than to boil it 1 minute in milk as is often recommended. It is a preparation of grain prepared by dry heat, and is cooked nearly enough when bought. WHEAT GERM — Use 1| cups boiling water, ^ teaspoon salt, and ^ cup wheat germ, and boil 30 minutes in an uncovered sauce= pan, or 1 hour in a double boiler; it is doubtful if it is wholesome cooked in the short time directed on the packages. Imperial Granum can be prepared the same way. HULLED CORN. — Soak a quart of yellow corn over night; the next morning pour off the water and put the corn in a kettle of hot water containing a cheese=cloth bag, holding a pint, or a little more, of clean wood ashes. Boil until the hulls begin to come off, then pour off the lye; rub the corn well in cool water to remove the hulls, then boil again in clear water until soft, changing the water TOAST 289 once or twice to take out the taste of the lye as much as possible. Hulled corn is eaten with milk like mush, and like mush it is fried when cold. HASTY PUDDING — Into 2 cups cold milk, stir 2 cups corn- meal, 2 teaspoons iBlour, 1 teaspoon salt; gradually stir this into 4 cups boiling water, and boil 30 minutes, stirring it frequently. It can be fried when cold as directed for cornmeal mush. TOAST. Simple as the process of making it seems, perfect toast is very rare. Good toast should be crisp and golden clear through, not brown outside and clammy in the center. Use stale bread, cut even slices ^ inch thick, heat them gradually at first, so that the heat may penetrate to the center of the slice and evaporate the water before the outside is crusted over; dry it carefully and, ivhen well dried, move it near the coals (which should be clear and red), and it will quickly turn a golden brown. Toast is often eaten which is cut in thick slices, browned outside, and left clam- my in the center. Such toast is less wholesome than untoasted bread, and is wholly unfit for invalids, although healthy stomachs may cope with it. Well made toast is very easy of digestion, and well suited for invalids, because starch, when heated to 401°, is turned to dextrin, and that is much more easily digested than the starch. The object should be to turn as much of the starch as possible to dextrin, and clear through the bread, not merely a little on the outside. A little caramel is also developed usually in toasting bread. Some people prefer toast soft inside and browned outside, because they say it is easier to eat, but if you will try it you will find good, dry toast easily breaks and crumbles apart, and is readily moistened by the saliva. For invalids always instead of leaving toast soft inside, it is better to toast the bread well, and then dip it in hot water for an instant to moisten it, but do not soak it. If possible, serve dry toast directly from the fire; if not, pile it on a plate, lay a napkin over it, and set it in the oven, or on the hearth to keep warm. Be careful not to burn the outside while toasting bread. For ordinary use (not for invalids) the thicker slices of bread, less perfectly toasted, can, of course, be eaten by those who prefer them. WATER TOAST. — Prepare a pan of boiling hot water, adding al- ways 1 teaspoon salt to the quart of water. Toast bread, dip in each slice quickly, moistening it merely, but, do not let it soak, as sloppy, sodden toast is not good. Butter each slice and pile them on a hot plate. Apple sauce, baked apples, poached eggs, and minced meats go with this kind of toast. MILK TOAST — For plain milk toast, toast the bread, and pour 3 or 4 tablespoons of boiling salted milk or cream on each slice. The toast can be buttered or not, as preferred, before pouring on the 19 290 SANDWICHES hot milk. Crackers can be split, toasted, and prepared in the same way. Or, scald the milk, add for each pint 1 tablespoon corn-starch or flour dissolved in a little cold water, 1 teaspoon butter, and ^ tea- spoon salt; prepare the toast, moisten it, dip each slice in the hot, thickened milk, put all in a dish, and pour the balance of the thick- ened milk over it. Serve hot. CREAM TOAST. — Put 2 cups milk into a sauce=pan and bring it to a boil; while it is heating, put 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour in another sauce^pan, stir them together gently while the but- ter is melting, and then let them bubble 2 or 3 minutes together; then add the hot milk, a little at a time, stirring it in well till it is smooth and free from lumps; let it simmer while preparing the toast. Toast the bread, soak it thoroughly in salted boiling milk (as the cream will be too thick to soften it), put it in a dish, and pour the prepared cream over and between the slices. MERINQUED TOAST — Prepare a meringue by dissolving 1 tea- spoon butter in ^ cup boiling milk, and just before taking it from the fire, stir in the well=beaten white of 1 egg; pour this over fresh- ly=toasted bread, which has been dipped in slightly salted water; put it in the oven 5 minutes, and delicately brown the meringue. VERMICELLI TOAST.— Pass the yolk of hard==boiled eggs through a coarse strainer; it will fall out in broken threads, looking something like vermicelli; scatter it over cream toast. TOASTED GRAHAM GEMS — Split the gems, toast nicely, and while they are toasting, heat some rich milk to the boiling point, add a little salt, butter, and thicken with flour moistened with cold milk, and pour over the toasted gems. Gems left one day may be thus utilized for the next day's breakfast. STRAWBERRY TOAST.— Toast thick slices of bread, butter them, and pile them with alternate layers of strawberries, crushed and sweetened as for shortcake, with strawberries on top; serve with cream, at once and while hot. SANDWICHES. Bread for sandwiches should be one day old, and a brick=shaped loaf is the best. Cut the crust from the end, then spread the end of the loaf evenly with softened butter, or comj)ounds of butter, sea- soned meat, etc., if desired, then with a sharp knife cut the buttered slice from the loaf. In this way the bread is not broken, as it is apt SANDWICHEB 291 to be if very tender, when spread after slicing. Spread and cut in this way until the loaf is used. Place two of the spread slices to- gether, press firmly, and trim in any way liked. They may be cut in rounds or heart=shaped with biscuit cutters; the crust may be trimmed ofp and the sandwiches cut from corner to corner, making triangles, or for ordinary occasions they may be left untrimmed, as many persons prefer them with the crusts. For hearty, hungry children, nothing is better for luncheons, picnic refreshments, etc., than sandwiches. Spread evenly the end of a loaf of good home-made bread, a day old, then cut it off ^ inch thick, spread another slice with butter, place boiled ham, cold tongue, roast beef or chicken, on one slice, cover it with another, and press tightly together; roll each one in buttered paper, or all together in a clean napkin. To keep them moist until eaten, put them after wrapping, into a tin pail, and cover tightly. If the meat used for filling sandwiches is chopped fine it will be much more convenient to eat. In putting up sandwiches for picnics, etc., it will add to their appearance to tie them with ribbon in pack- ages; a different colored ribbon can be used effectively for each kind of sandwich Although it is a little more trouble to make them, sandwiches can be improved both in appearance and flavor by cutting thin slices of bread into small square, oval, or round pieces, and frying them in smoking hot fat to a light golden brown; then drain on blotting paper. These pieces can be made into anchovy, lobster, egg, salmon, chicken or other sandwiches, piled high on plates with bright green parsley around the base. Such sandwiches are admirably adapted for evening parties, and will be more appreciated than second and third rate sweets. Mustard or Anchovy Butter for sandwiches may be prepared as fol- lows: For mustard butter, take soft butter the size of an egg, and 2 tablespoons of good mustard, put them in a stone mortar and work them together with the pestle till perfectly mixed. For anchovy but- ter, take the same amount of butter and 1 teaspoon of anchovy paste, and work them together in the same way. Same proportions for larger quantities. ABERDEEN SANDWICHES.— Put in the chopping^bowl cold meat, either of veal, ham, beef or poultry, and chop it very fine; for 1 teacup of chopped meat, add to it a piece of softened butter the size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, with 1 or 2 spoons of water to slightly moisten it, and 1 teacup of fine bread crumbs; chop and mix all to a paste. Take a bit of the mixture on the molding=board, and 292 SANDWICHES with a knife wet in hot water, form it into a strip about 3 inches long and 2 wide. Trim off the edges, detach it from the board with a knife, and roll into an oblong shape. If it is too dry to roll without cracking, add a little more water; if too wet, add more bread crumbs. These are served with lettuce, or cresses. ANCHOVY AND EGG SANDWICHES — Bone anchovies, steep them in milk for 2 hours and chop fine; also mince hard=boiled eggs very fine; sprinkle the chopped egg on a slice of buttered bread, cover with the anchovy, add pepper and a layer of mustard and cress, and lay on the other slice of buttered bread. BAKED SANDWICHES — Sprinkle salt and pepper on thin slices of cold meat, put them between thin slices of bread, form them into a pile 5 or 6 inches high, fasten them together with a skewer, and brown them until the bread is crisp, in a hot oven, first basting them with melted butter. CHEESE SANDWICHES,— Mik together i lb. of grated cheese, and ^ teaspoon each of pepper, salt and mustard, add 1 tablespoon each of vinegar and melted butter, make it to a paste, and spread it thin on the buttered bread. DATE SANDWICHES — Seed choice dates, press flat, and spread between thin slices of buttered bread. EGG SANDWICHES.— (1) Put between buttered slices of bread moderately thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, seasoning them with salt, pepper and nutmeg. (2) Chop the whites of hard-boiled eggs very fine; mash the yolks, and mix with melted butter, salt and pepper. If not smooth enough, add thick cream. Spread the paste on the bread. FISH SANDWICHES — Use any kind of cooked fish, chop it fine, make it into a soft paste with butter, and season it well. GINGER SANDWICHES — Use the preserved ginger which comes in small jars; cut very thin, and put between slices of buttered bread. Cover with a damp napkin until ready to serve. HAM SANDWICHES.— Boil the ham the day before, slice it as thin as possible, and lay it between the thin, buttered slices of bread. Spread on a little mustard, or not, as preferred. Chopped ham sandwiches can be made by chopping the ham as fine as grated cheese, and making it to a paste with malted butter, or butter and cream, or beaten egg, as preferred, with mixed mustard, pepper, and a little finely chopped pickle. Then spread the paste on the bread. SANDWICHES 293 HONOVER SANDWICHES.— To the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, add ^ lb. best butter, 3 tablespoons mixed mustard, a little pepper and salt; beat all together very smoothly, and set on ice. Spread it on thin slices of bread, and put between the slices very finely chopped tongue and ham, to which a little chicken or roast beef is added. This makes a delicious sandwich. Thin slices of pressed beef may also be used. LABETTE SANDWICHES — Spread Devonshire cream on thin buttered slices of hroion bread; then spread on apricot jam, being careful that there are no lumps in it, then lay on another slice of buttered bread, and press together. LETTUCE SANDWICHES — Put crisp lettuce leaves between thin slices of buttered bread; serve as soon as possible after prepar- ing. Add a mayonnaise dressing if preferred. Various sandwiches can be thus made by using instead of the lettuce, the plumed tops ^ of young white celery; or luisturtium leaves; or young dandelion leaves; or peppergrass; or waier-cress; and so on. LOBSTER SANDWICHES — Pound together in a mortar until quite smooth ^ lb. lobster meat, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 oz. butter, 5 capers, pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste. Spread thinly on slices of bread and butter, sprinkle with a very little chopped mustard and cress, if liked, cover with another slice of bread and butter, cut neatly, and serve. ^ NUT SANDWICHES. — Grate English walnuts or pecans, mix with salt and a little cream or milk, and spread it on thin slices of buttered brown bread. Almonds or peanuts may be used in the same way. PEANUT SANDWICHES — Remove the shells and brown skins, roll the peanuts moderately fine, but not to powder, pour on any good salad dressing, and spread between slices of bread. Make almond or walnut sandwiches the same way. SALMON SANDWICHES.— Drain all the oil from canned salmon, remove all skin and bone, reduce it to a paste; season, spread some on one slice of buttered bread, squeeze lemon juice over it, and lay on the other buttered slice of bread. SARDINE SANDWICHES.— (1) Drain the sardines from the oil, put them in hot water a few minutes which will take out the grease, drain them, dry in a cloth, and pound to a paste; season with 294 SANDWICHES salt and pepper, add a little very finely chopped lettuce, and spread it on the bread. (2) Chop the fish fine, add a few drops of lemon juice, and cover the buttered bread with it. TOMATO SANDWICHES — (1) Spread a French dressing over the buttered slices of bread, and put slices of tomatoes between them. (2) Put potted beef on the lower buttered slice, lay on thin slices of tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and lay on the top slice. VARIOUS SANDWICHES — A little ingenuity will invent an almost endless variety of new and attractive sandwiches. We sug- gest a few more. (1) Prawns or shrimps may be used instead of lobsters. (2) Fresh caviare spread on bread and butter, with a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and if liked, a little minced salad, is excellent. (3) Slices of cucumber, dressed with oil and vinegar, make a delicious sandwich. (4) Use yolks of eggs pounded with butter and Parmesan cheese. (5) Make pate de foie gras sandwiches, with or without water^cress (6) Make salmon or shrimp sandwiches with mayonnaise sauce and minced salad. (7) Put kippered salmon in thin shreds between slices of hroion bread and butter. (8) Vary any sandwich by using mayonnaise, bechamel or other sauoe. PASTRY. 'T^ OTWITHSTANDING the frequent denunciations of pastry \\J for its unliealthfulness, people will eat pie, and a thorough X/^ knowledge of pastry=making is indispensable to the econom- ical housewife. To succeed in this, certain rules must be remembered and implicitly carried out. The excellence of puff paste depends upon the quality of the materials used, the lightness of hand and dexterity of the operator, and the coldness of the materials. The hands should be washed very clean, and then dipped into very hot and then into cold water. The mixing=bowl should also be filled with hot, and then with cold water, which makes it smooth and pre- vents the butter from sticking. The slab or board for working upon should be smooth, clean and dry. A marble slab is better than a board because it keeps the pastry cooler, but few can. command this, and a board is more frequently used. The Flour. — The flour used should be of a fine quality, and should be thoroughly sifted, dried and chilled. For making paste a starchy flour is better than one rich in gluten, and that is what is meant by pastry flour. Although eggs are commonly used in paste, they are really not necessary, and a good paste can be made without them. The butter should be of good quality and pliable, or it will not mix properly with the pastry. Work it in clear, cold water, to free it from salt and buttermilk, and the pastry will then be more delicate; then keep it cold until used. Method of Making Paste. — The method of making paste is as follows: For the best paste use 1 lb. of butter to 1 lb. of flour (if measured use 2 pints flour to 1 pint butter). Take 1 lb. of the washed butter, flatten it out, press it on all sides to remove the moisture, keep out about 2 or 3 oz. and put the balance in a floured cloth on ice till needed. Now put the 1 lb. of sifted and 295 PASTE FOLDED OVEB THE BUTTER. 296 PASTRY cliilled flour into the mixing=bowl, keeping out about 2 oz. for sprinkling the board with, put in the 3 oz. of butter and 1 small tea- spoon of salt, and the eggs if they are used, and with the tips of the fingers work them into the flour. Many chop these ingredients to- gether to avoid heating them with the fingers. Add a little ice cold water occasionally, and keep mixing until a perfectly smooth paste is formed. A cup of water, more or less, will be needed. When the paste is of the right consistency, and forms a smooth ball, dust the board lightly with flour, and remove the paste on to it, and pound it lightly with the rolling-pin to toughen it. Then roll it out about \ inch thick, always using a well-floured rolling-pin, and rolling from you. Then take the cold butter and roll it out in the same way, only smaller, and lay it upon the paste, and fold the ends of the paste over the butter as shown in Fig. 1. on p. 295. (The butter is sometimes cut into 4 pieces and only 1 piece worked in at a time, but the meth- od would be the same.) Then turn it bottom up on the board, and roll it out carefully, using, a light, quick stroke, and being careful not to break the paste, as the aim should be to keep all the air pos- sible inside, to assist in making it rise. If by accident the dough breaks, lay on a piece of plain dough (a little plain dough may be kept out for this purpose), dust on flour, and go on with the roll- ing. Roll it out into a sheet about \ inch thick, and fold \ of it over onto the balance, and then the Fig. 2. EOLLED PASTE FOLDED OVEE. Fig. 3. paste afteb making a "tukn." other side over onto that, making 3 layers about 3 times as long as it is wide, as shown in Fig. 2; then turn it, and fold it lengthwise into 3 thicknesses as shown in Fig, 3, when it will be ready for roll- ing out again. This is known as the " first turn." PASTKY 297 In lifting the paste at any time let it roll up on the roller, then lift it gently, dust a little flour on the board, and gently unroll the paste the way you want it to lie, having the side which was next the roller come next the board. The process just described as the "first turn" should be repeated 3 or 4 times for common pies, and 6 or 7 times for the best pastry, but should be repeated until no streaks of butter can be seen. The more layers there are the more "flaky" it will be. To keep the butter evenly distributed so that the paste will rise evenly, it is folded in an opposite direction each time, and after each "turn" it is laid with the top of the paste on the board, thus turning it over. It is customary in warm weather (it is a good plan at any time) to put it on ice for 5 or 10 minutes between each "turn." This may be done by putting it in a long, floured pan, putting it on ice, and then set another pan filled with ice on top of it, thus aving ice both above and below. The top tin should not be heavy with ice, as only a little ice is needed. Tins are best, because dishes would not conduct heat readily enough to cool the paste quickly. After making the last "turn," roll the paste out about ^ inch thick, and cut it in shape for pies, patties, etc. Some cooks think that the shortest route from the flour barrel to the bake oven is the best for pastry, and others prefer to set the paste aside in a cold place and bake next day. Skillful cooks obtain good results either way. From first to last the paste should be kept as cold as possible. If not ready to bake at once when made up, keep the paste in the ice=chest until wanted. We knew of one lady who had a long, slim glass bottle which she filled with ice^water and used for a roll- ing-pin. Pastry should be rolled lightly, the rolling=pin often lifted and but little pressed upon, so as not to force out the air. The point to aim at in making puff paste is to have as many al- ternate layers of butter and dough as possible, and to have each layer so light and thin that in baking it will rise separately. The paste will be difficult to manage, and a failure, probably, if it is either too dry and stiff or soft and sticky. If the flour used is the least damp, the paste made from it may be heavy. The less flour used in rolling the paste the better, as if an excess of flour is used the flakes will be pale, thick and tough, if not absolutely flat and heavy, and the bak- ing will be much slower. Using coarse and heavy flour may produce a similar result, and so may slow and heavy handling, a warm or ir- regular temperature when working, or faulty baking. The Butter. — If the butter is not right, rapid handling, partial freezing, an extra sprinkle of flour and a little cream of tartar may keep the flakes separated until the oven is reached and the baking 298 PASTEY begins; it will bake sharp and crisp with a quick heat, but the butter will fry out and cover the flakes of paste and they will be found greasy to the touch when removed from the oven. Do not suppose that if the butter and paste are not in the best condition possible the amount of the butter can be reduced in the finishing process of rolling together; there will be fewer layers of paste", the quality inferior and the quantity less. For some dishes a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so suitable as a substantial light one, and a light, quick, cool hand will influence the lightness of the pastry as well as the quantity of the butter used Baking Tins. — For baking, tin plates should always be used, as the under crust will be apt to not bake well in anything earthen; the crust will readily separate from the pan when done. It should then be taken ofiP the plate at once, or the under crust may get " soggy." Grrease pie-tins well before laying on the crust; for some kinds of pastry they are wet with water instead of being greased. The Oven. — The heat of the oven is important. If too hot, the top will become scorched before the pastry is risen; if too cold, it will melt, spread, and the paste become heavy and sodden. It is best, therefore, to keep the pastry out until the oven is right. Exper- ience will guide in this, but a good plan is to try the heat of the oven first with a small piece of paste; the heat should be strong enough to cause the cold air in the paste to expand, and so make it rise, and then quickly set it in the form given by this expansion of the air. The heat should be strong underneath at first, to make the paste rise well before browning on top; then turn the heat from below, or to prevent burning, put a grate or pan under the bakings tin, and quicken the heat on top. The Two Crusts. — In making pies with an upper crust always make small holes in it to allow for the escape of steam, or that will burst the crust. These holes may be made in any fanciful shape de- sired An excellent plan is to use a rich paste for the top crust, and a plainer one, with much less shortening, for the under one. Have the under crust a little the thicker. If there is no upper crust, have a heavy edge on the pie. Mixing the white flour with ^ to ^ its bulk of cornmeal is said to make pie crust lighter and more digest- ible. ' A fine brown color will be given to the upper crust of pies if, just before putting them in the oven, they are brushed over with milk. PASTRY 299 To Prevent Juice from Running out. — To prevent the juices of fruit pies from running over, which is so annoying to cooks, various plans have been employed. (1) Make a small tube of writing paper about ^ inch in diameter, and let it set through the upper and rest on the lower crust; or a short piece of macaroni set on end makes a good tube. The juice will bubble up in this instead of running out. (2) In all fruit fillings stir the flour into the fruit, so that all the fruit may be covered, instead of sprinkling it on top. Also avoid having too much fruit in the pie, and add no water, as the fruits make their own juices. (3) Have a pie tin deep enough to allow a wall of crust deep enough to hold in the juice. (4) Fasten the upper crust securely by turning the edge of it under the under crust, first wetting the latter with a little beaten white of egg or water. Sometimes the white of egg is used and the two firmly pressed together without turning the upper under the lower crust. All the small juicy fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, blueber- ries and blackberries, can be made to retain their juices in the crust by mixing with the sugar used for sweetening them a heap- ing tablespoon of either flour, corn=starch, arrowroot or cracker dust. These act simply by absorbing the surplus juice, and so keep it from running out. The mixture should be well shaken down through the berries before the top crust is put on; as the sugar draws out the juice, it is better not to sprinkle it on the fruit until that is put in the crust. The under crust in these pies will be raw and clammy, unless there is a good heat at the bottom of the oven. If the under crust in fruit and custard pies is rubbed over, just before filling the pies, with a mixture of egg, well beaten, it will prevent the juice from soaking into it. The white alone will do if the pie is very delicate in color. A tablespoon of powdered sugar added to the flour makes the paste into a nice, short crust, for fruit pies. If in fruit pies the sugar is not added until after they are baked, and then the crust is lifted up and it is put in, less sugar will be needed. (See what we say about " Using Sugar," in our chapter on " Cooked Fruit.") The Pbinciples Involved. — The principles involved in this mode of baking flour are as follows: In making paste or pie crust, the paste of flour and water is rolled out into very thin paper=like layers, with fat between. In folding and rolling it out, much cold air is imprisoned and distributed through the mass. When baked, this air is heated and so expands, and, being confined, it "lifts" the dough, or makes it rise and become light. This action is purely mechanical, without pro- ducing any chemical change like that worked by yeast. It is obvious that the colder this imprisoned air is when the mass is ready to bake, the more it will be contracted, and, therefore, when heated, the more it will expand and lift the dough; hence the repeated injunctions to keep the mass as cold as possible. Eggs, when used, act in two ways — they increase the tenacity of the dough so that it better retains the air, and when beaten up they carry a good deal of aia- into the dough. As soon as the cold air expands, the mass should stiffen, before it has time to fall, hence the importance of having tha heat of the oven right. 300 PASTRY It will be seen that the lightness of the pastry will depend on the amount and coldness of the air it contains before it is put in the oven, and the extent of the expansion of the air afterwards; therefore, other things being equal, the best pastry will be that which contains the greatest quantity of the coldest air before it is baked. Cooks with a hot hand will do well to mix the paste with a knife (a steel chopping-knife with a wooden handle is about the best thing) as the warmth of the hand will heat the paste in working it. The "fiakiness" of the paste will depend on the number of layers of butter and paste it contains, but its rising depends on its air. We knew an experiment in making some pastry in which the lady pressed it hard with her thumb in certain spots. When baked, it was light everywhere except where her thumb had pressed, and there it was soggy and heavy. The pressure of her thumb had forced out the air, so that in those places there was nothing to expand and "lift" the paste. This will show the importance of the lightness and deftness of touch in making paste, which we have elsewhere insisted on. Pastry, though generally liked, is not easily digested, and is not suited to deli- cate stomachs, although the strong may eat it. Flaky paste, although easily broken in pieces, is not easily pulverized or ground into a pulpy mass by the teeth, so that comparatively large=sized flakes are commonly swallowed, besides which the starchy matter, being enveloped in fat, is not readily reached by the saliva, and thus the first step in the conversion of flour into sugar is prevented, while for the same reason it is not readily attacked by the gastric juices in the stomach. From these causes proceed the evil results so often experienced from eating pastry. When eaten, it should be very thoroug^hly and patiently masticated. Using Cornmeal. — Cornmeal mixed with flour, using J^ cornmeal to % flour or a little more, makes puddings or pastry more digestible, because it makes them less cohesive — that is, when it is used the products fall more readily into minute particles so that the saliva can act on the starch, and the gastric juice on the albumenoids, much more readily. Cornmeal, lacking gluten, breaks up the sticki- ness of gluten flour as we elsewhere explain. Meringue (pronounced me -rang' ) for pies, puddings or cake, is a frosting spread on top of them. It is made by beating the white of 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of powdered white sugar to a froth, and flavoring it if desired. After spreading it on, it must always be put in the oven to brown and harden; let a pudding cool slightly before spreading it on, or else it will liquify. Doree, or gilding, applied to patties, etc., is an egg beaten up and brushed over the top. It gives them a beautiful golden shade. PASTE, OR PIE CRUST. For the best puff paste the uniform rule is equal quantities, by tveight, of butter and flour. A good paste is made with | lb. butter to 1 lb. flour. For home use, as low as ^ lb. butter to 1 lb. flour is sometimes used. For the best paste, good butter is the thing to use; the next best thing, butter and lard mixed. For meat pies clarified drippings makes a good crust. A light biscuit crust answers well for dump- lings, and may also be used for meat pies. A paste made with lard alone, will be tender, but not flaky. If any baking powder is used with paste at any time add that to the flour first of all. When baking powder is used in pastry, speedy PASTRY * 301 work is needed or the effervescence will be over before the work is completed, the gas will escape, and the paste will fall. For delicate puffspaste or pie crust do not use baking powder. ' No. I. PUFF PASTE — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, and 1 level teaspoon salt. Mix about ^ of the butter in the flour, then roll out and work in the balance as directed for making pastes, giving it 4 to 6 " turns." This makes a rich paste suitable for the upper crust of pies, using a plainer one for the under crust. No. 2. LIGHT PASTE. — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, 1 level teaspoon salt, 1 egg (2 are sometimes used). Mix, roll out, and finish as directed above for making paste, giving it at least 4 " turns " — 6 is better. It makes a good paste for fruit tarts. No. 3. PUFF PASTE — Use 1 teacup each of butter and lard, 4 cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 white of egg, beaten. Sift the baking powder and salt into the flour; then rub in the lard till it forms a fine, smooth paste. Add enough ice water, containing the beaten white of egg, to make a stiff dough — say ^ cup; roll out thin, spread on \ of the butter, and make 1 "turn" as previously explained for pastry; repeat with another \ of the butter, and so on till all is used. Then set on ice till cold — say 1 or 2 hoiirs— before using it. An excellent paste. No. 4. FRENCH PASTE — Use 4 cups flour, 1 cup powdered sugar, 1 level teaspoon salt, 8 whole eggs. Mix thoroughly with the fingers to a smooth paste; if too dry to mold, add the yolk of another egg; after it is molded, roll out and cut. This paste is more diges- tible than shortened pie crust. No. 5. PIE CRUST — Use 1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon lard, \ teaspoon baking powder, ^ teaspoon salt. Sift the baking powder and salt together, chop the lard into the flour, and add just enough cold water to moisten the flour. This quantity will make 1 pie with 2 crusts. No. 6. PIE CRUST. — Mix equal amounts of white and graham flours; stir in cold sweet cream with a spoon, lightly and rapidly, in the proportion of 1 cup of cream to 3 cups flour; with the flngers gather the dough together, without kneading it, and set it in a very cool place \ hour before rolling out. It can be made still lighter by adding 2 teaspoons baking powder for each 3 cups flour, b"t in that case roll out and bake at once. 302 ■ PIES PIES. Time to Bake. — Pies should bake, as a rule, in | to f hour. They should slip on the tin when done. Crust alone should brown in about \ hour. APPLE PIE. — Line a large pie=plate with a good crust, fill it well with sliced apples; take a small cup of sugar and mix well with it 1 tablespoon of flour, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoon of cinnamon, and sprinkle over the pie; put on the top crust; wet the edges of the under crust, pinch the top one upon it closely, cut an opening in the middle of the top crust, and bake in a good oven about an hour; serve the day of baking. POT APPLE PIE — Put a quart of water in a kettle with 2 cups of sugar, a saltspoon of salt and 6 tart apples, pared, quartered and cored; let them cook in the syrup until they look like preserves, then make a baking-powder crust, without shortening, cut it in rounds with a biscuit=cutter, put it in the kettle, add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and more water if the syrup is much reduced; cover, and cook 20 minutes. Turn into a deep dish to serve. DRIED APPLE PIE. — The dried apples should be soaked over night, then slowly stewed, in just water enough to cover them, for 2 or 8 hours, especially those dried in the old=fashioned way, and which are preferred by many cooks to those that are bleached. When soft, stir to a mash with a spoon, or work the apple through a coarse colander; season to taste with sugar and spices, and bake in two crusts. A few dried raspberries, or a little raspberry jam is a great improvement in dried apple pies. A good way to treat dried apples is to soak them over night, then cover with boiling water, and stew soft. A little sour cider or lemon juice may be added if they are not tart enough, and a fine flavor will be imparted by adding a little orange peel when they are about half stewed; then add sugar and nutmeg to season, and strain through a colander. APPLE CUSTARD PIE.— Take 2 cups sweet milk, 2 cups apple sauce, 3 eggs; flavor and sweeten, and bake with an under crust only. This will -make 2 small or 1 large pie. Apple Custard No. 2 — Take ^ cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 cups stewed apples, 4 eggs beaten separately. Bake in pie=plates in bottom crusts only. APPLE PIE A LA MODE — Take a good apple pie, warm it, and spread ice cream over the top 1 inch thick, and serve at once. PIES 303 BANANA PIE Slice the bananas thinly, put over them the grated peel and juice of a lemon, and let them lie in the acid for an hour before using; then sweeten to taste, and bake in two crusts. CARROT PIE To 1 lb. of carrots, boiled and mashed through a colander, add 2 eggs, and rich milk or cream to make quite thin; flavor to taste with sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg; put it into 2 pie- plates lined with rich paste, and bake in a quick oven. CHERRY PIE. — Pit the cherries and be careful to reject all that are wormy; place them on a nice under crust, sweeten to taste and mix a teaspoon of corn-starch with the sugar, or a tablespoon if the cherries are large and juicy. Bake in two crusts, or as a tart with strips of paste twisted and placed over it in diamond shape. Eat cold, with sugar sifted over the top. DRIED CHERRY PIE.— Use a pie=plate that will hold 1 pint, line with rich paste; take 1 teacup of sugar and put ^ of it on the under crust, roll 2 soda crackers fine, put ^ on the sugar, and 1 tea- cup of cherries strewn evenly on the cracker; now add a piece of butter half the size of an egg, and cover with the remainder of the sugar and cracker; when the top crust is ready to put on, add 1 tea- cup of cold water, and bake ^ hour in a moderate oven. GROUND CHERRY PIE. — Line a pie^plate with a nice pie crust, and then put in a layer of ground cherries and 1 cup of sugar. Cover with a nice crust and bake. The ground cherry {Physatis viscosa) belongs to the order Solanacce — the order which gives us the tomato and potato. CHOCOLATE PIE.— Take 2 cups milk, yolks of 2 eggs, |- of a cup of sugar, 2 tablespoons of corn=starch, and 2 tablespoons of grated chocolate. Heat the milk, sugar and chocolate together; when hot, add the corn-starch, mixed in a little of the cold milk, then add the beaten yolks; let all come to a boil; line a pie=tin with good pie crust, bake, and then pour in the chocolate cream; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth with 2 tablespoons of white sugar; pour it over the pie, and set it in the oven to brown. GREEN COCOANUT PIE — Open the eyes of a cocoanut with a gimlet, and pour out the milk into a cup; then break the shell, take out the meat, and grate it fine; take the same weights of sugar and the grated nut, and stir together; beat 4 eggs, the whites and yolks separately, to a stiff foam; mix 1 cup of cream, and the milk of the cocoanut with the sugar and nut; then add the eggs. Line deep pie- tins with a nice crust, fill them with the custard, and bake carefully ^ hour. 304 PIES DRIED COCOANUT PIE. —Put a cup of cocoanut to soak in sweet milk as early in the morning as possible; take a teacup of the cocoanut and put it into a coffeecup, and fill up with milk. When ready to bake take 2 teaspoons of flour, mix with milk, and stir until it thickens; add butter the size of a walnut, while warm; when cold, add a little salt, 2 eggs (saving out the white of one for the top), sweeten to taste, add the cocoanut, beating well, fill the crust and bake When done, have the extra white beaten with sugar and ready to spread over the top; return to the oven and brown lightly. Cocoanut is the fruit of a species of palm. It now grows in nearly all tropical regions. The num- ber of different ways in which it is made useful to the inhabitants in the region in which it grows is surpris- ing. Each tree yields 80 to 100 nuts annually. The oil expressed from the kernel is good, and might be used as food, but it quickly becomes rancid. The nut should be eaten moderately only, as it is rather diffi- cult of digestion alone, but in connection with other food, aids their digestion. It is more of a heat^giver coooanut palm. than of a flesh^former. CORN=STARCH PIE.— Scald 1 pint of milk and stir in it 3 tablespoons of sugar and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; wet 2 table- spoons of corn=starch with a little cold milk, and stir it in the milk; sugar, and eggs. Line a pie-plate with paste, bake, and fill it with the cream. Beat 2 tablespoons of sugar with the whites of the eggs, spread over the top of the pie, and set in the oven to brown. This may be served with or without cream, and will be found very nice. CREAM PIE — Take 2 cups thick cream, and 1 cup milk. Put the cream and milk in a tin pail, and set in a kettle of boiling water. If there is danger that the cream may curdle, put into it as much soda as will lie on the point of a pen=^knife. When the cream is hot, beat the whites of 2 eggs, a tablespoon of corn-starch, and 2 heaping tablespoons of sugar all together, and add to the cream. When it thickens, let cool a little, and add a teaspoon of extract of vanilla. Pour into a deep crust already baked. Cover with a meringue and brown in the oven. Cream Pie No. 2. — Bake a crust in a large pie-pan, lift it out on a plate; for filling, take 1 pint of very rich milk; boil | of it; with the remaining ^ stir 2 tablespoons of corn=starch; add to the boiling milk, stirring all the time ; then add | teacup of sugar, then the yolks of 2 eggs, well beaten and thinned with a little milk; remove from the fire, flavor with vanilla, and pour into the crust; whip the whites, PIES 305 ^r:>. add \ teacup sugar, frost the pie, and place in the oven to brown slightly. Serve cold. Cream Pie No. 3 — -Use 1 egg, 1 cup sugar with butter size of an egg well rubbed into it, \ cup milk, in which dissolve \ teaspoon soda, \\ cups fiour, and sift well through it 1 teaspoon cream tartar and a little salt; bake in 3 tins. Cream Filling.-— Take 1 egg, \ cup sugar, \ cup flour; wet the flour with a little milk, then stir it into 1 cup boiling milk, then add the egg and sugar, and a little salt; stir till thick and smooth. This is cheap, but delicious. DATE PIE. — Prepare the dates as directed in the introduction to " Cake " (which see). Spread the lower crust on the pan, put in the prepared dates, add a little cold water, sprinkle with flour, dot with butter, put on the upper crust and bake. The Date is the fruit of a palm tree. It bears bunches, weighing perhaps 25 lbs. with 200 dates. It grows extensively in Persia and throughout Asia and Africa. More than half its weight is sugar. It is a gentle laxative, and is in many cases to be preferred to figs. Dates can be date palm. used in pies, puddings, bread and sauce, and they are worthy of a more extensive use, although many people do not understand how to handle them. Dates may be used to advantage in place of citron in many kinds of cookery. GREEN CURRANT PIE. — Currants fully grown, and just before turning red, make very nice pies; mix a little flour or corn^starch with the sugar used for seasoning, and bake with an upper crust. Green gooseherry pies are made in the same manner, first picking off the stems and blossom ends. CUSTARD PIE — Take 2 teacups milk, 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons light brown sugar, 1 heaping teaspoon flour, a pinch of salt. Heat the milk, but do not let it boil. Beat eggs, sugar, flour and salt together, and add the milk. Line a deep plate with plain crust, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until there is no milk in the center. Do not let it boil, as that causes it to whey. When done, grate nutmeg on top. Custard Pie No. 2. — The proper proportions for a rich custard pie are 4 well-beaten eggs, 4 tablespoons of white sugar, and 1 quart of milk, or milk and cream mixed. This makes the filling for a deep pie-plate with a built-up edge of crust. 20 306 PIES Frosted Custard Pie. — Use 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs and white of 1, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt. When baked, put on the frosting made of the 2 remaining whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and 2 spoonfuls powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any flavoring you choose; set it back in the oven and brown. ELDERBERRY PIE — Take | elderberries and ^ rhubarb, with sugar sufficient to sweeten, and bake with 2 crusts. This makes an excellent pie which cannot be distinguished from one made of rasp- berries, and is much cheaper. This proportion of elderberries and rhubarb makes a nice jam. FRIED PIES — Roll out a good biscuit dough, about 7 or 8 inches in diameter, but a spoonful of any good sauce near the center, fold the dough over it, press the edges together, and fry like dough- , nuts in smoking hot fat. FRUIT PIES, OR TARTS — Fruit pies of all kinds may be made with an under crust only. Have the fruit stewed, sweetened and cold. Fill the crust with the fruit, place a few bits of butter over the fruit, and bake. When the pie is cool, beat the white of 1 egg and 1 tablespoon of fine sugar to a froth, spread over the pie, and brown in the oven. If a thicker meringue is liked, make with whites of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. If the fruit is very juicy a lit- tle pulverized cracker can be sprinkled over the pie before baking. Pies made in this way with one crust are often called " tarts." Fruit pies can also be made by putting the fruit in a pudding dish, sweeten and dust over the fruit a little corn=starch, flour, or cracker=dust; put bits of butter over the fruit, and any spices liked; cover with a crust a Itttle thicker than when there is an under crust. Bake slowly. In this way there is no danger of losing the juice of the pie. GOOSEBERRY PIE — Take ripe gooseberries, or green ones when fully grown, pick the stems and blow ends from them and place on the under crust. Mix a tablespoon of corn=starch in a small cup of sugar for the sweetening. Bake with 2 crusts. GRAPE PIE — Take 1 coffee-cup of grapes, 1 tea=cup of sugar, 1 egg, a pinch of salt, a dessertspoon of flour, and a teaspoon of butter. This makes 1 pie. Bake in 2 crusts. HICKORY=NUT PIE — Use If pints milk, 4 teaspoons sugar, 2 eggs, and 1 cup chopped hickory^nut meats; bake with an under crust only. PIES 307 HUCKLEBERRY PIE — Fill a pie tin, lined with paste, with the berries, and add sugar to sweeten — about |- cup, A pleasant tartness, which will improve the flavor, may be imparted by adding a little vinegar or lemon juice, or by mixing in some currants. Cover with a top crust and bake. JELLY PIE. — Take 1 cup jelly, 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, ^ cup but- ter. Cream the butter and sugar, beat the yolks until light and stir them in, then add the beaten whites and last the jelly. A small piece of this served on the same plate with apple or peach pie is nice. LEMON PIE. — Line a pie plate with a good crust and bake. For the filling take 1 cup sugar, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons corn-starch (a little heaping); stir sugar and yolks together, add the lemon juice, then add the corn= starch and stir well together; add 1^ cups boiling water, put on stove and cook carefully until thick, and then pour into the baked crust. For the meringue beat the 3 whites of eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons sugar, put over top and brown delicately in oven. LEMON PIE WITH UPPER CRUST.— Grate the yellow part of 2 lemons into a dish, peel off the white and throw away; then cut up the lemons with the grated yellow, add 5 eggs, if they are plenty, if not, 4 will do; add 2 cups of sugar, a little salt, and 2 tablespoons of water. Line your pie^tins with a flaky crust, and divide the filling for 2 pies; put on an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven, and you will find it a delicious dessert. MINCE PIES. — These generally come on Thanksgiving day for the season; they are better when a few days old. It is better to make the mince-meat a week before Thanksgiving, and the pies in time to stand at least 3 days. Boil 6 lbs. lean beef till tender, let it stand over night and then chop fine; chop 1 lb. beef suet, also 5 lbs. apples, and 2 lbs. seeded raisins; slice thin ^ lb. citron, and mix these ingre- dients, with 2 tablespoons cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon grated nut- meg. Hints — We may offer a few hints about mince pies. Dried apples, soaked in water a few hours, or over night, or Irish potatoes soaked in the same way in vinegar, make a very fair substitute for fresh apples in mince pies. Fresh apples can be washed, wiped dry, and chopped fine without peeling, and some labor saved thereby. Dried cherries and other fruit, prepared with sugar, can be soaked 10 or 12 hours in a very little water, and then both water and fruit used instead of rai- sins. They will be much cheaper and will answer very well. Economical house- wives will often find hints like these very serviceable. 808 PIES Canned Mince Meat. — If mince meat is canned hot, in the same manner as fruit, put in glass jars; sealed tight, and kept in a cool, dark place, it will keep for months. A quart jar full will hold enough for 2 pies, and in this way mince pies can be had the year round, as well as in winter. MINCE MEAT. 3 bowls of meat, chopped. 1 bowl molasses. 2 bowls cider. 2 bowls raisins. 4 bowls sugar (use 5 if liked 1 tablespoon cloves. very sweet). 1 tablespoon pepper. • 3 lemons, use juice and yellow 1 bowl vinegar, rind. 1 bowl citron. 5 bowls of apple. 1 tablespoon salt. 1 bowl suet. 3 nutmegs. 2 tablespoons cinnamon. A bowl holding about 1| pints is used for measuring. MOCK MINCE PIE. 1 cup rolled crackers. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. I cup boiled cider. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon of cloves. 1 cup chopped raisins. 1 cup sugar. ^ cup vinegar. 1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. MOCK MINCE PIE No. 2. 1 cup dried English currants. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 teaspoon allspice. 1 cup sour cream. 1 egg. 1 teaspoon cloves. This will make 2 pies. Bake in 2 crusts. SUMMER MINCE PIES. 1 cup bread crumbs. 1 cup molasses. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 1 teaspoon cloves and cinnamon. ^ cup butter. 1 cup water. ORANGE PIE — Take 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 table- spoon corn=starch, 1 teacup boiling water, yolks of 3 eggs, juice and grated rind of 1 orange. Mix all together. Bake in an open shell. When set, cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs, and brown in the oven Orange Pie No. 2. — Use the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges. Cream 1 tablespoon butter with 4 tablespoons sugar; into this beat the yolks of 3 eggs, then the whites of 2, beaten stiff, and mix all with the orange juice and the rind. Bake with an under crust only; make a meringue with the reserved white, spread over the pie, and lightly brown in the oven. PIES 309 PEACH PIE. — Peel and halve peaches, and fill a pie-plate lined with good paste with them; sprinkle ^ cup sugar over the fruit, sift on 1 tablespoon flour (less, if the fruit is not juicy), and a few bits of butter; bake until the peaches are done. The Peach tree belongs to the Rose order, is a na- tive of Persia and greatly resembles the almond-tree. peach. All the varieties are divided into 2 classes — " freestones " and " clingstones," the former being the best. Too much down on a peach is a sign of inferior quality. Although a delicious fruit it contains little nutritive mat ter. It contains little sugar, but the malic acid it contains is masked by its pec- tose. The skin is indigestible. Its acid is principally tartaric. The kernels of peach stones yield an oil identical with that of bitter almonds. PEACH COBLER — Take a good sized dish like a pudding^dish ; line the sides with good paste, and fill the dish with good peaches, halved and pared; sweeten according to taste and the flavor of the peaches. Place a small cup in - the center to keep the crust from sinking down; roll out a crust considerably thicker than for pies, just large enough to cover the top of the dish, cut a slit each way in the center and place over the peaches; bake a crisp brown, and eat with cream and sugar, or sweet sauce. Canned peaches may be used if more convenient. Apple Cobler may be made in the same way. PEAR PIE — The pears should be ripe and mellow enough to eat; core and slice them and prepare a crust as for apple pies; put a small amount of sugar on them, and a few bits of butter, but no spices. Bake until the top crust is of a nice light brown color, and the under crust will slip on the plate. This, .from the taste, might be called honey pie. PINEAPPLE PIE — Grate or chop the " Pine " (see Pineapples in chapter on fruits), line a deep pie-dish with nice short paste, stir a tablespoon of arrowroot or corn=starch into ^ cup of sugar and cover the pineapple in the pie-dish; wet the edge of the under crust with cold water or the white of an egg, cover with the top crust, cutting a place in the center, and bake. Press the edge of the pie all around, and bake until of a delicate brown on top and the crust will slip on the pie=plate. POTATO PIE. — Use \ cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 eggs, well beaten, 1 quart potatoes boiled and sifted, 1^ cups milk, salt and nutmeg, and flavor with orange or lemon juice. Bake with an under crust only, to a light brown. Eat when a little warm. 310 PIES SWEET=POTATO PIE.— Boil the potatoes until soft, mash them through a colander and for every -^ pint add 2 tablespoons of sugar and 2 eggs, with milk to make a quart. This fills a deep pie^plate, with crust build above the edge of the plate as for custard pie, and it is done when the center is not milky. PRUNE PIE — Stew jprunes as for sauce, stone them, have ready a deep pie=dish lined with puff paste, fill this dish with the stoned prunes, sprinkle over them -J cup sugar and a little cinnamon. Bake it with an upper crust, or cover it with deep frosting made of the whites of 2 eggs, powdered sugar to taste, and any flavor desired. PUMPKIN PIE — Pare and stew the pumpkin till it is soft and dry. It must be cooked slowly to the last, to prevent scorching. Press through a colander, and to 1 cup of the sifted pumpkin, add 1 egg, 3 tablespoons molasses, 1 cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 tea- spoon ginger (or cinnamon), and 1 pint of milk. This will fill 1 pie on a large plate. Bake like a custard, in rather a slow oven, till a golden brown. Pumpkin Pie No. 2. — For 3 pies take 1 pint of cooked, strained pumpkin, 1 quart of nice rich milk, 5 eggs, 3 cups of sugar, ^ cup of butter and 2 tablespoons of cinnamon. (Ginger may be used instead of cinnamon if preferred. ) In pumpkin or squash pie 1 tablespoon of flour may be substituted as the equivalent of 1 egg. RAISIN PIE — Take the seeds from 1 cup of raisins, add 1 cup of water and boil until the raisins are soft. When cold, add the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup of rolled crackers, and sweeten to taste. Bake in 1 crust, and when cool cover with a meringue, and slighty brown in the oven. Rai8IN8 are dried grapes. There are 2 ways of prepar- ing them. One way is to partially cut through the stalk, and then let the fruit shrink and dry on the vine, by the heat of kaisin gbape. the sun. The other method is to dip them while yet on the vines into a hot solution of alkali, derived from wood ashes, to which olive oil and salt are added. The* oil causes them to shrink and wrinkle, ^and the alkali removes the waxy coat which impedes their drying. They are then dried in the sun in bunches, on lines or prepared floors. Muscatels are prepared by the first method, and are sometimes called " raisins of the sun." Raisins contain more sugar and less acid than grapes, and are therefore more nutritious, but eaten to excess they are apt to derange the digestive organs. RHUBARB PIE — The giant variety with red stalks is the best to use. Cut the stalks in half inch pieces; after it is cut pour boil- PIES 311 ing water over it and let it stand 20 minutes; pour that off and re- peat the process with boiling water; this extracts much of its oxalic acid and partly cooks it without breaking it in pieces. Mix the sugar with a little corn-starch. Bake in 2 crusts. The flavor is im- proved by adding a little orange. A little nutmeg added to rhu- barb pie will improve the flavor and make it taste much like apple. Note. — If a little baking soda is mixed with the fruit (say ^ a saltspoon to each pie) the alkali will neutralize the oxalic acid of the rhubarb and much less sugar will be required for sweetening — a fact worth knowing. RICE PIE. — To 1 cup steamed rice add 3 cups cream; sweeten to taste, and flavor with cinnamon; beat the whites of 2 eggs to a froth, then beat all together and put in a deep pie^plate, with under crust only. Bake about ^ hour. SQUASH PIE — To 1 pint of squash, boiled and passed through a sieve or colander, add 3 eggs, 1 heaping teaspoon corn^starch, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and milk to make it soft; sweeten to taste. This makes a large, thick pie. STRAWBERRY PIE.— Make a rich butter crust to line the pie= plate; fill in the berries, and for each pie use for sweetening about ^ cup of sugar and a tablespoon of corn^starch mixed with the sugar; bake with an upper crust. TOMATO PIE. — Into a tin lined with puff paste, slice ripe toma- toes; sweeten with sugar; sprinkle on 2 teaspoons flour, and add a little lemon juice for flavor; put on a top crust and bake. TRANSPARENT PIE — Take yolks of 3 eggs, 3 tablespoons of sugar, 1^ tablespoons of butter; beat well together, flavor to suit taste, and bake in 1 crust only of rich puff paste. Cover with a meringue, if desired. VINEGAR PIE. — Take 1 cup sugar, ^ cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon butter, 3 tablespoons of flour, 2 cups of water, 1 teaspoon of cinna- mon. Boil till thick, pour into the crust and bake. WASHINGTON PIE — For the crust, use 2 cups sugar, ^ cup butter, 3 cups sifted flour, 4 eggs, ^ teaspoon cream tartar; for the filling, 1 tablespo9n corn=starch, boiled in ^ pint milk; beat the yolk of 1 egg very light, and stir into the milk; flavor with vanilla, and, when cold, add the other half of the milk and the white of the egg, beaten to a stiff froth and stirred in quickly; spread this between the cakes, and ice it with the white of 1 egg and 8 tablespoons of finely sifted sugar, flavored with lemon. 312 TARTS TARTS. TARTLETS. — Cut rounds of rich pie-crust, put a strip of the same around the edges and bake; when wanted, a little jam, jelly or preserves can be placed in each one before serving. CRANBERRY TART — Stew a pint of cranberries with a very little water, and sweeten while hot. When cold, if not sweet enough, add more sugar. Bake with an under crust, and when the tart is cool cover with a meringue, and brown in the oven. GOOSEBERRY TART — Stew the gooseberries until they are soft, in a very little water, but be careful and not break them; drain the water from them, put them on a bottom crust, sprinkle a layer of sugar over them, then lay twisted strips of pufp paste across in diamond shape, or bake the crust separately in heart^shapes, (see " Flauns ") and lay it on the tart after baking in one crust. LEMON TARTS. — Mix together thoroughy 1 pint sugar, 8 eggs, well beaten, 1 tablespoon butter, and 2 whole lemons grated; set it on the stove, stir until it boils up, and put aside to cool. Fill into tart- lets at any time, as it will keep for weeks. PINEAPPLE TARTS — Cut as many heart=shaped pieces of puff paste as the pie is to be divided into; bake them in a tin in the oven until they are light and brown; line a pie-plate with nice pie=crust, or puff paste, and bake that. Take a grated pineapple, stew until tender in a very little water, then add | cup of sugar mixed with corn-starch, and stir until it is thick; then pour it into the baked bottom crust to cool. When cool and solid, brush over the top with the white of an egg, lay a heart of puff paste on each division of the tart, and it will adhere to it when dry. Arrowroot or crack- er=dust can be used instead of the corn=starch, in fruit pies or tarts if preferred. STRAWBERRY TART — Sprinkle sugar over the berries and let them lie over night; before using, drain off the juice, and bake the fruit in one crust, with strips of paste twisted and crossed over the tart in diamond shape; or puff paste may be baked in heart shape and laid on the tart after it is baked. The juice drawn from the berries can be boiled with added sugar, and the syrup bottled and sealed while hot, to be used in pud- ding sauces, or diluted with water for a summer beverage. Canned strawberries and otJier small fruits can be made into tarts in the same way by draining off the juice. SHORTCAKES 313 FLAUNS (Parisian Tarts). — Stew fresh fruit of any kind as for a compote — that is, it should be somewhat sweeter than for fruit sauce, but not like preserves. Make a plain crust and line pie^plates, cover them thickly with the stewed fruit, and bake without an upper crust. Have some nice puif paste, cut it with a heart=shaped cookey= cutter, and bake the hearts separately in a hot oven on baking=tins; when the flauns are cold, and the paste cooled after baking, brush over the tops of the tarts with the beaten white of an egg; then place a heart of paste over each part of the tart to be cut for each person; the points or the hearts are to be turned toward the center of the tarts. SHORTCAKES. Make a soft dough as for baking powder biscuit (see " Baking Powder Biscuit"); take it on the molding=board and divide the dough into 2 parts, making it up lightly in round masses; do not mold or knead it, but flatten each piece of dough down into buttered jelly-cake tins, or any round pans; bake quickly and turn each one on a dinner plate; slice ofP the top of each one, butter each piece, spread with the prepared fruit, place one^half on the other, and have fruit on top. This makes 2 cakes, which, cut in quarters, will serve 8 persons. For 1 cake use ^ cup milk for mixing, and other ingredi- ents in proportion. The fruit used should be prepared with sufficient sugar and ready at hand, so that there will be no delay when the cakes are taken from the oven. A little fine white cornmeal added to the flour in making short- \cake is thought an improvement and much relished by some people. STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE — Prepare the cake as above, split it, butter, and spread on the berries. If small they can be sweetened and spread on whole; if large they can be mashed or chopped and sweetened, and then spread on. Chopping is better than mashing the berries. Serve with cream. APPLE SHORTCAKE — As soon as the cake is baked, split it open, spread one piece with butter, spread it with well^sweetened apple sauce, pour on some thick sweet cream, grate on nutmeg, then lay on the other piece and cover it the same way. BANANA SHORTCAKE.— Slice the bananas and mix with oranges in the proportion of 3 bananas to 1 orange; grate the outside 314 SHORTCAKES of the orange peel and mix it with 1 cup of sugar; spread the whole over the buttered cakes. It is an improvement to add 4 tablespoons of sweet cream, beaten stifif. BERRY SHORTCAKES.— Any of the small berries, like rasp- berries, blackberries, or blueberries, make nice shortcakes. Sweeten the berries and make like strawberry shortcake. Black and red raspberries mixed, or raspberries with a few ripe' currants mixed in make delicious shortcakes. CRANBERRY SHORTCAKES — Stew the cranberries, make them quite sweet, and spread on the prepared cake. FRUIT SHORTCAKES — Any kind of stewed or canned fruit can be used for shortcake. Apples, rhubarb, or pears stewed and sweetened to taste are nice; prepare the fruit, have it ready, and spread it on the shortcake as soon as that is baked. JAM SHORTCAKE. — Bake the shortcake, split it, and spread on raspberry or other jam, as for layer cakes, only thicker. Serve with cream. PEACH SHORTCAKE. — Slice and sweeten the peaches, and spread on the buttered cakes, as directed for other shortcakes. Apricots, or any other kind of fruit, may be used the same way. ORANGE SHORTCAKE.— Make a shortcake, as before described; then slice oranges, and put in layers of these, with sugar and cream. Serve with sweetened cream. For chicken shortcake see page 154. PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS. ■X N making pudding all the materials — butter, eggs, milk, and ( for this purpose, was once considered indispensable, but £>oft suet, or the fat trimmed from the outside of fat beef, is excellent, combined with lard; also clarified drippings from roasted meat, either beef or pork. A small proportion of the hard kidney suet of beef may be added, but if hard suet is in excess in frying fat, food cooked therein will have a thick, tallowy crust, which is neither palatable nor digestible. Cottonseed oil, alone, or in combination with a small proportion of beef suet is used. by some cooks; others dislike it. With this, as with some other food preparations, the taste may perhaps be acquired. Mutton fat should never be added to the frying kettle, or used in any way; as stated elsewhere, the strong odor to which many people have a great aversion, is intensified by reheat- ing; besides, it is the hardest of animal fats, and cools too quickly on food cooked in it. If black specks adhere to the doughnuts after they are fried, put a few slices of raw potato in the fat, and the specks will adhere to the potato. If lard or drippings are not per- fectly sweet, before putting in any dough put in some slices of raw potato and fry them; the potatoes will absorb the rank flavor. A few slices of raw potatoes in the kettle while cooking doughnuts will keep the odor from permeating the house. Potatoes are largely composed of starch and carbon and they purify the fat in much the same way that water is purified by charcoal; being very porous, and possessing great powers of absorption, they take up the gases and odors, thus puri- fying the fat. The Kettle. — A kettle should be kept for the purpose of frying doughnuts and fritters, and one rounded at the bottom, broad, and shallow, is the most convenient shape. Clarifying Fat — The frying fat must be clarified from time to time, as more or less flour falls to the bottom of the kettle whenever it is used; the fat can be poured while still warm — not hot — into a pan of water, and the settlings scraped from the cake of fat when it is cold; a more simple way is to set the kettle away with the fat in it to cool, and when next wanted for use set on the fire just long enough to s/cM*/ the cake of fat in the kettle; lift it from the kettle with a carving fork, and with a knife cut the black from the cake of fat, wipe out the kettle with papers and put them in the fire; then return 338 DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. 339 the fat to the kettle and add more if needed. The dirty looking sedi- ment is commonly thrown away, but it need not be altogether wasted; when a considerable quantity has accumulated it may be clarified by the second method described for clarifying fats in our article on fry- ing meats, etc. (which see). The Dough.— Be careful in shortening all doughs to be fried in fat, either for doughn/uts or fritters, for if too tender they will absorb the frying fat. If shortening is used, eggs must be added and the dough made more stiff, to counteract the tendency to soak fat; little or no shortening is best for most doughs cooked in fat. The fat must also be hot enough for any dough placed in it to rise instantly to the sur- face of the fat; this can be ascertained by trying it with a small bit of dough, before proceeding with a quantity. Remember that a fre- quent cause of trouble is not having the fat hot enough, and we have several times alluded to this. Have it so that it gives off a blue smoke, as explained for frying meats (which see). DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. In frying all kinds of doughnuts let them thoroughly brown on one side before turning them; in this way they rise thoroughly, and are much lighter than if frequently turned while frying, but fry both sides well before taking them out. Do not fry so many at once as to cause crowding. When done, take them out, let them drain, and when cool keep them in an earthen crock. Fried cakes keep moist longer when made with brown sugar than when made with any other kind. The time required to fry is 8 to 5 minutes. DOUGHNUTS. {Extra Nice) . _ 1 cup sour cream. • 1 teaspoon salt. 1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda (heaping). 1 cup sugar (heaping). Flour to roll. 3 eggs. Beat yolks and sugar together, add cream, milk, salt, beaten whites and flour containing soda. Fry in smoking hot fat. Excel- lent. RAISED DOUGHNUTS. 1 cup Gutter and lard mixed. 1 cup yeast, 2 cups sugar, 3 eggs, beaten, 1 cup warm water. Salt and spices. Rub the butter and lard into a quart of sifted flour, add 1 even tablespoon of salt, and spices if liked; put the water in the flour, 340 DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. then the beaten eggs, then the sugar; now mix all together, and add flour enough to mold into a soft dough; let it rise over night, knead down again in the morning, let it lie on the moldings board until it begins to rise again, then roll out and cut in rings or make into twists, and fry in hot fat. A cup of washed and dried Zante currants are nice in these cakes. Zante Currajits are not really currants at all; they are small grapes grown in Zante, ■which is an island near the western coast of Greece. They are cultivated on an immense plain u.x- der the shelter of the mountains, and when gathered and dried in the sun and air they are stored in magazines until ready for shipment. Zante produces about 9,000,000 lbs. of these currants zante oubbants. annually. Zante currants are rather indigestible. PLAIN DOUGHNUTS — Use 1 cup new milk, 1 level teaspoon of salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder sifted into 2 cups of flour; mix all together, and add a little more flour if needed, but the cakes are better to be made quite soft. Do not mold the dough but place it on the molding=board, flatten the dough down with the hands until it is about, an inch thick, cut into shape and fry in hot fat. Powdered sugar can be dredged over them when served, if liked. OHIO DOUGHNUTS. — L^se 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 2 cups new milk, 1 teasj)oon salt, a little nutmeg, and flour enough to permit the spoon to stand upright in the mixture; add 2 teaspoons baking powder and beat until very light. Drop by the dessertspoonful into hot fat. They will not absorb the fat, and are as digestible as any doughnuts. COFFEE DOUGHNUTS. — Use one cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of soda; make the flour as soft as you can handle it; then make into twists or rings, and fry in hot fat. These are not rich but are nice in the morning with coffee. CREAM DOUGHNUTS — Beat 1 cup sour cream, 1 cup sugar and 2 eggs together; add 1 teaspoon soda, a little salt and flour enough to roll. CRULLERS. 1 cup butter. 3 eggs. 2 cups sugar. Spice to laste. 2 cups sour milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Use flour to stiffen; cut out and fry. CAROLINA CRULLERS. Butter size of egg, 3 eggs. 1 cup sugar. Flour enough to roll. FRITTERS 341 FRIED CAKES 1 large spoon melted butter. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 2 cups sugar (scant). 1 saltspoon cinnamon. 1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon salt. 4 eggs, medium sized. • Flour to roll. ^FLORIDA FRIED CAKES. 1 tablespoon shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 2 cups sour milk. Flour to roll. 2 eggs. JOLLY BOYS. ^ cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 1 egg. 2 cups cornmeal (scalded). ■| teaspoon of salt. ^ teaspoon soda. Drop by tablespoonfuls into smoking hot fat, and f doughnuts. FRITTERS. m soua. [g hot fat, and fry like These are composed of batters and doughs of various kinds, usually enclosing fruits or sweets of some sort, and are fried in hot fat; they are eaten hot, and some sweet sauce or sugar served with them. They should be quickly made, and thoroughly beaten. The batter should be smooth and thick enough to cling to whatever is dipped into it without running off, and the fat should be very hot, in fact, it should smoke. Probably more cooks fail on the heat of the fat than on anything else, and yet it should not be too hot. When it gives off a blue smoke, as we described in our directions for frying meats, etc., it is right; or test it by dropping in a teaspoon of the batter; if the temperature is right, the batter will quickly rise to the surface in a j)uff ball, sputtering and dancing, and will speedily become a light brown. When the fat is right it will not soak into the dough, but will make it delightfully crisp, light, and puffy. In the introduction to this chapter we explain about the kinds of fat to use. Take the fritters out with a skimmer, as soon as they are done, dislodge any fat which adheres, pile them in a hot dish, sift sugar over them, and serve at once. The batter may be simply made, as for griddle cakes, and of about the same consistency. If it is allowed to stand an hour or so before being used, the starch grains will swell by contact with the moisture, and hence it will be lighter. Eggs added to the batter make it crisp and delicate, and ensure a good coating over the fruit, 342 FKITTEES etc., enclosed. Baking powder, or cream of tartar and soda, are sometimes used when the batter is wanted very light; when shorten- ing is used add eggs also, as their albumen quickly coagulates in the hot fat, and forms a crust, or film, which prevents the fat from soaking in. The best batter is made with the yolk of egg, and just before using, the white is beaten to a stiff froth and added also. Always add a little salt. A little more flour can be used, making the batter a little thicker, for fruit which is very juicy. Fritters are quickly made, and can be served for breakfast, lunch- eon, tea, or a dessert for dinner, and they are almost invariably rel- ished. Hot caramel syrup, or maple syrup, can be served with them, or the simple white syrup made of granulated sugar and a little water, while many of the pudding sauces are also suitable. The time needed to fry is 8 to 5 minutes. FRITTER BATTER (Plain).— Vse 2 cups of flour and 2 eggs. Beat the eggs and flour together, and add enough sweet milk to make a batter of the consistency of griddle cakes; then beat in a level teaspoon of salt. This batter is simply made, and can be used for any kind of fritters. Batter No. 2. — Mix together ^ cup water or milk, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and the well^beaten yolks of 2 eggs; then beat in enough flour to make a good batter of it. Many cooks use 1 tablespoon of olive oil instead of the butter, and prefer it. Just before using it beat in the well^beaten whites of the 2 eggs. If it is used for meat, oysters, or clams, 2 teaspoons of vinegar or lemon juice will be an improvement; if for fruit, add instead 1 teaspoon of sugar. APPLE FRITTERS — Peel the apples, and take out the core with a core=cutter, cut the apples in thick slices, crosswise — this makes a ring; sprinkle with sugar and let them lie for an hour; then dip each piece in batter, and fry until of a light* brown color. Sprinkle again with sugar and send to the table. BANANA FRITTERS— Cut the bananas in slices ^ inch thick, sprinkle with powdered cinna- mon, dip in batter, and . fry in hot fat. Serve with syrup. BERRY FRITTERS — Make a batter of 2 eggs well beaten, add a gill of cream and a gill of milk thickened with a tablespoon of corn=starch; season with a little sugar and cinnamon. Put raw straw- berries into this batter, and fry them in a pan of hot FEITTEES ' 343 fat, a spoonful at a time. Dish tliem in a pyramid, and sift sugar over and between them. Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, and other small fruits can be made into fritters in this manner, and are delicious. BREAD I^RITTERS.— Cut stale bread into slices | inch thick, and then cut it into small squares. Into 2 cups milk put a piece of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon; boilit ^ hour; dip the bits of bread in the milk, lay them on a cloth to drain, then dip them in beaten egg, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve. Or (2) dip thin slices of yeast bread in the plain fritter batter, and fry a delicate brown. Sprinkle on powdered sugar, and garnish with jelly. CAKE FRITTERS. — Cut rounds, squares or triangles of any kind of dry cake, dip them in milk with a little lemon juice added, then flour them, and fry in hot fat. CARROT FRITTERS — Take 2 boiled carrots, beat them to a pulp, add 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour, moisten them with milk or cream, add 1 teaspoon sugar, and beat together thoroughly; drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat; when done, squeeze a little orange juice over them, and sprinkle on pulverized sugar. CLAM FRITTERS. — Drain the liquor from the clams, and make a fritter batter with it; chop the hard part of the clams, mix them in the batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. CORN FRITTERS — Boil the corn, cut it from the cob, mix it in the fritter batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. CORNMEAL FRITTERS — To the welhbeaten yolks of 4 eggs add 3 cups milk, 2 cups cornmeal, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 teaspoon salt; mix all thoroughly, and add the well- beaten whites of the 4 eggs, and ^ cup flour in which ^ teaspoon baking powder has been sifted; drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat; when done, drain on paper, to absorb the fat. Eat with a sauce made of butter and sugar, seasoned with cinnamon. CREAM FRITTERS.— Mix 3 cups flour with 2 cups milk; stir in 6 well-beaten eggs, then 2 teaspoons salt and 2 cups cream; stir the whole just enough to intermix the cream, and fry. The addition of a few tender apples, chopped fine, will improve them. FRUIT FRITTERS.— Almost every kind of fruit will make frit- ters. If the fruit is cut up, sprinkled with sugar, and allowed to stand 2 or 3 hours before being used, the flavor is improved; a little 344 FKITTERS grated lemon peel can be added also, if desired. Then drain the fruit, dip or mix it in batter, and fry in hot fat. Apricots, peaches, pears, pineapples, etc., make nice fritters in this way. Canned fruit can also be used, and makes nice fritters. JELLY OR JAM FRITTERS.— Make a batter of 2 eggs, 1 cup of milk, and flour enough to thicken to the consistency of griddle cakes; beat in a level teaspoon of salt, and drop in spoonfuls in hot fat; fry brown. When well drained, place on each one a bit of jam or firm jelly. (Lemon jelly made with gelatine is nice for these fritters). LEMON FRITTERS. — The lemons must be sliced as thin as paper, the seeds carefully removed, and then cover them with batter, and fry in hot fat. Orange Fritters can be made the same way, MEAT FRITTERS.— Take cold meat of any kind, cut it into small pieces, season with pepper and salt, cover with fritter batter, and fry in smoking hot fat; drain on brown paper and serve. A few drops of lemon juice or vinegar on the meat and a little nutmeg grated on will be an improvement, or the lemon juice or vinegar can be added to the fritter batter. (Se our batter No. 2.) Tripe makes good fritters. Make like other meat fritters. OYSTER FRITTERS — Drain the liquor from the oysters, and to 1 cup of this liquor add 1 cup milk, 3 beaten eggs, a little salt, and flour enough to make a thin batter; chop the oysters, add them to the batter, and drop by the spoonful into smoking hot fat. Serve immediately when done. Or (2) boil the oysters until the liquor flows; make a batter with the liquor, dip in each oyster whole, and fry in smoking hot fat. A little lemon juice or vinegar added either to the oysters or the batter will be an improvement. PORK FRITTERS — Dip thin slices of fat pork, or breakfast ba- con, in batter, and fry in hot fat. POTATO FRITTERS — Use 2 cups mashed potatoes, 1 egg, ^ teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons flour, into which ^ teaspoon baking powder is sifted; make in rolls, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat. These are a nice relish for breakfast. RAW POTATO FRITTERS — Grate 4 large raw potatoes, add a little salt and cayenne pepper, and make a rather thick batter by adding 2 beaten eggs; drop in hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a light brown. FRITTEES 345 RICE FRITTERS. — To 1 cup of boiled or steamed rice allow 2 eggs, and a tablespoon of flour; add a saltspoon of salt, and 1 of ground cinnamcfiT; mix thoroughly with the hand, then drop by spoonfuls in hotllard; fry brown. SALSIFY FRITTERS — Boil the salsify, mash it, pick out all tough fibres, and for each 2 cups of mashed salsify work in 1 table- spoon of butter, and then ^ cup of milk and 3 well=beaten eggs; thicken with a little flour, make into round cakes, dredge with flour and fry in smoking hot fat; or the batter may be fried like griddle cakes. VEGETABLE FRITTERS — Boil the vegetables until tender, and either cut in slices, dip them in the fritter batter and fry, or chop fine, mix the pieces into fritter batter, and drop it by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat and fry a delicate brown. Celery, parsnips, and other vegetables can be used. VARIOUS FRITTERS. — An ingenious cook can easily devise va- rieties by using different flavors. Use vinegar or lemon juice for meat, oyster or clam fritters, and cinnamon, nutmeg, orange juice, jellies, etc., in various combinations, and also vary the sauces used. As almost any meat, fruit or vegetables can be used for fritters, the varieties that can be produced are almost endless. CANNELONS. — These are made of puff paste rolled very thin, and cut in pieces about 2 inches wide and 6 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over twice to prevent the escape of the jam while frying; slightly press the edges of the cannelons, and fry in smoking hot fat until a nice brown. Lay them on blotting paper to absorb su- perfluous fat, and sprinkle with sugar before serving. Cannelons can be made with any kind of fresh fruit, and are delicious. CAKE. ^^^^HE 4 corner-stones of cake making are flour, sugar, butter W f and eggs. By combining these in varying proportions and QJ j^lS using a few minor accessories, an endless variety of attrac- tive and delicious cakes are obtained. In measuring for cake the cups, if more than 1 is used, must be of exactly the same size, for the cook must remember that success is more apt to follow accuracy of measurement. Make the fire the first thing, and while the oven is heating, measure and place on the* cook- ing table all the materials for the, cake, and have at hand all the implements ( forks, spoons, cup, beaters, ) which will be required in making it. Materials for cake. — These should always be of the best quality, as cake is a luxury, and if served at all should be made of the best ingredients. Have everything perfectly dry, as dampness in the materials is almost certain to produce heaviness in the cake. It is best to have each ingredient properly prepared before beginning to mix the cake, and in cold weather warm them to a uniform tem- perature and they will mix better. While all the materials should be good, however, many cooks are needlessly extravagant in their use of butter and eggs, and we commend to our readers the econom- ical recipes which we have gathered together in this, as in other de- partments of the book. Butter used in cake making should be free from rancidity. In cold weather let it stand near the stove to soften, but most cake mak- ers agree that it should not melt. It must be worked and beaten with the sugar until it is thoroughly creamed. Many cooks use moderately salted butter without washing, as the small amount of salt which it contains adds to the flavor of the cake, but if it is ex- cessively salted the washing process is indispensable. To wash butter it must be thoroughly worked with the hands in a deep pan or pail of water until it is soft and pasty, changing the water once or twice if needed. In cold weather the water may be slightly warmed, but in summer it should be cold. Sugar should always be dry and well powdered. For delicate cakes, pulverized or the finest grades of granulated sugar should be used. Some kinds of fruit cake have a fine flavor imparted by using a good quality of unrefined brown sugar, and brown sugar is suita- 346 CAKE 347 ble for most dark/^kes. Cake is made heavy by using very coarse granulated sugar. Lumpy sugar should always be crushed and sifted. For many of the finer cakes coffee "A" sugar produces better re- sults than any other kind. Molasses for cooking should be the rich, dark New Orleans or West India molasses. Light colored syrups are sometimes made of glucose and are inferior, being less sweet than that drained from crude sugar, these grades being the viscid, brown liquid which drains from sugar during its formation. In baking cakes remember that those containing molasses burn quicker than others. Flour. — Pastry Flour (that is " old process " or St. Louis flour) is much the best for all kinds of cake. It contains more starch and less gluten than the new process flour. A trifle less flour (about ^ less) must be used if it is new process. Be sure the flour is dry; sift it be- fore using, and if it is cold, warm it slightly. Measure it after be- ing sifted. The baking powder or cream of tartar should be sifted into it. Eggs will beat more quickly in cold weather if they are placed for a short time in warm water before breaking them. In summer put them in cold water for a short time. Break each egg separately into a cup to make sure that it is not stale; not only look to see if it is good but test it also by smelling. An egg that is the least tainted will spoil the cake or anything else in which it is used. The quick- est way to separate the yolk and the white is to carefully break them into a plate and then lift out the yolk with the fingers, a'llowing the white to fall between them. If even the smallest amount of yolk gets mixed into the whites they will not froth. Beat eggs in an earthen dish. The whites and yolks are best beaten separately as it takes longer to beat the whites. When beaten separately, if the cook has no assistant, the yolks should be beaten first and until they are a light lemon color, and strain them if the cake is fine; then beat the whites until they are too stiff to fall out of an inverted dish. If the whites become liquid again they cannot afterwards be made light, so do not stop beating till they are light and stiff. The eggs should be put in a cool place till wanted to use. When only the whites are used, the yolks, if unbroken and kept covered, will keep 2 or 3 days, but it is better to use them at once, working them into custards, etc. The whites of eggs will beat quicker if a pinch of salt is added, and they also beat more easily in a cool place or in a draught. If both yolks and whites are strained through a sieve before beating them they will beat smoother and easier. 348 CAKE The object in beating eggs is to force in air. The more and quicker they are beaten the better, up to the point where the albumen forms a thin film around all the air bubbles it will hold — millions of them. More beating after that only serves to break the film and let the air escape, and then the eggs will fall. If allowed to stand after being beaten, their own weight will break the thin films, the air will es- cape, and they will fall. Because of the oil contained in yolks they will, if added to beaten whites, cause the films to break, and so let out the air. This is the prin- ciple involved. Milk when called for in our recipes, always means sweet milk, un- less otherwise specified. Some cooks use water instead of milk in even the best cakes, and water can be substituted without detriment, so that if you wish to make a cake calling for milk, and you are out of it, you can still make the cake and use water instead. A hint. — For cakes, puddings, bread, etc., skimmed milk an- swers as well as rich milk, and the cream can be saved and used for coffee, desserts, etc. Spices for cake should be of the best quality. Cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and pepper are much nicer if bought in bulk, and freshly ground at home, when needed. Cinnamon. — This is the inner bark of a tree, a spe- cies of the laurel family which grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet, and is found in Ceylon, Java, etc. " Clove Oil" is distilled from the leaf. Cinnamon contains a fra- grant essential oil. It is best to buy it in the stick or roll; pound it in a mortar, and sift it fine for use. cinnamon. Fruit is best prepared the day before. It should be dry when used. Leave out a little flour for the purpose and roll the fruit in it just before putting it in the cake. With raised cake spread fruit lightly on top, pressing it in a little, but do not beat it in or it will sink to the bottom. Almonds should be blanched by being i3ut into boiling water; leave a few minutes and then rub off the skin; then throw into cold water to preserve their color. If they are pounded, a little white of egg or water should be added every 2 or 3 minutes to prevent their oiling. Or cut them up and roll with a rolling pin on a table or marble slab, spreading a little sugar on first. If not pounded or rolled they should be cut into thin slices or divided lengthwise. To shred almonds, cut them with a sharp knife into fine strips length- wise, Citron should be sliced very thin, and the pieces should not be too large. A Cocoanut should have the milk drawn out through a hole cut in the end; crack it and take the meat out (having previously loosened CAKE 349 it by pounding it lall over) and dry for a few hours in a cool open ov- en; then grate and use. If any is left it can be kept for several weeks, if necessary, by sprinkling it with sugar and keeping it in a cool, dry, airy place. Currants should be washed in warm water, changing it 2 or 3 times, and rubbing them well with the hand. Then drain them, spread out on a cloth, and pick out all bad ones, sticks, grit, etc., and dry them in the sun; an oven unless very slow will harden them. It is well to prepare several pounds at a time, and keep them in glass jars English currants are apt to be "gritty;" they may be made to '• plump," or fill out, by pouring boiling water over them, after which dry them. Currants are neither so wholesome nor nutritious as rai- sins. Dates aro prepared by separating them from each other; then put them into lukewarm water, shake them about for 2 or 3 minutes, and drain. Now take out the stones; this can be done with the fingers as a rule, but if they are very hard use a sharp knife. Then rinse them very carefully again, and drain them very thoroughly. Raisins can be stoned more easily if boiling water is poured over them and left on 5 or 6 minutes, as that loosens the seeds. Pick out stems and defective raisins. For light fruit cake they may be chop- ped, but not too fine. Have them perfectly dry when used, and dredge flour over them. Baking powder, Cream of Tartar and Soda. — Cake should not be made overflight with baking powder. A less quantity is needed, in proportion to the flour, than for biscuits, which are made light and comparatively dry, as they are to be eaten soon after being made, but cake is made to keep for some time — a week or longer. It should of course be light, but fine-grained and moist. The rule for biscuits is about 3 rounded teaspoons of baking powder to a quart of flour; for that amount of flour in cake, made with eggs properly beaten, 1 tea- spoon of baking powder is sufficient. The baking powder or cream of tartar should be well sifted into the flour before mixing that into either cake, biscuits, or bread. Dissolve the soda into a little milk or water. Cream of tartar and soda can be used instead of baking powder in any recipe, or vice versa, but as all baking powder contains some starch or flour to keep it dry (see our recipe for making it) it is not quite as strong as the pure cream of tartar and soda, so that about -g more baking powder is required than of the cream of tartar and soda combined. The usual proportion for 1 quart of flour for bread or biscuit is 1 teaspoon soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar; or 3 350 CAKE rounded teaspoons baking powder; and a convenient rule is 1 level teaspoon of baking powder to 1 cup flour, but cake, when lightened with eggs, requires less than ^ of this. In making rich fruit cakes eggs alone are used, without any bak- ing powder, or cream of tartar and soda, to make them light. The 2 alkalies used in cooking are soda and potash or their derivatives. Pot- ash is found in all fertile soils, and is essential to plants, and all land plants when burned yield potash. When calcined and purified it yields pearlash. Saleratus is a kind of pearlash derived by subjecting it to the action of carbonic acid gas. The potash compounds are now little used. Soda is obtained from sea^salt or marine plants. It is called sahsoda when unpurified. It is combined with 1 part of carbonic acid to form the carbonate, and 2 parts of carbonic acid to form the bicarbonate of soda, or the baking soda ordinarily used. Soda should always be thoroughly pulverized before it is meas- ured so that there are no lumps in it. Strong alkalies are powerful poisons and must be counteracted or rendered inert before entering the system. This is done by the acids used. The too free use of soda or saleratus in cooking is injurious to the health and is recognized and commented on by good medical authorities. The alkali particularly aflEects the coatings of the stomach and bowels and causes indigestion and bowel complaint, sometimes ending in acute inflammation. Children are often injured by it. Bicarbonate of soda contains twice as much carbonic acid as common washing soda, but if it is dissolved in hot water, or heated in any way, this extra gas is driven off, and it is at once reduced to the level of common washing soda. For this reason soda should never be dissolved in hot water; tepid water may be used, but cold water or milk is best. It will dis- solve as thoroughly in cold as in hot water, although not as quickly; or it can be thoroughly mixed and sifted into part of the flour, and will then be incorporated so as to leave no yellow spots. If used in molasses, dissolve it in as little water as possible, beat it into the molasses till it foams, and then add to the other materials at once. Cream cf Tartar is an acid obtained from crude tartar, or argol, a substance deposited on the sides of casks during the fermentation of wine. It is purified by using charcoal and clay, and crystalized. When cream of tartar unites with the bicarbonate of soda, carbonic acid gas is liberated, and the minute bubbles per- meate the mass of dough and make it rise, while the residue forms a salt known as Rochelle salt. This is a well=known cathartic, but is not harmful in the small quantities thus formed. The acid and the alkali should, however, be so propor- tioned as to neutralize each other. They then form what is known as a neutral salt. If the acid is in excess the salt will be acid, and if the alkali is in excess it will be alkaline. Experiment shows that 1 level teaspoon of soda is neutralized by 2 full teaspoons of creana of tartar — that is, by a little more than 2 parts of cream of tartar to 1 part of soda; and these are the proportions in which they should be used. Mu7'iatic acid is sometimes used instead of cream of tartar, and when acted on by soda it leaves a residue of common salt, which is unobjectionable. It acts so quickly, however, that it is not adapted to domestic use, as much of the gas will escape before it performs any work, but it is sometimes used in bakeries. Whe»i sour milk is used, the lactic acid it contains acts on the soda the same as the acid cream of tartar, and so liberates gas. The proportion to use is 1 teaspoon CAKE 851 of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, or y^ teaspoon to a cup, but it should be remem- bered that very sour nailk contains more acid than that which is just turning, so that some judgment is needed in guaging the proportions. In recipes where molasses is used, milk which tastes or smells sour, but is not thick, can be used as sweet milk. Molasses furnishes another acid which answers the same purpose as that of the sour milk and cream of tartar, acting on the alkaline soda and liberating carbonic acid gas. HOW TO MIX CAKE. — Probably, as many cakes are wasted through improper mixing, as by any other cause, unless it is insuffi- cient beating. In mixing cakes in which butter is used proceed in the following order: 1. Cream the butter. If it is very cold, warm without melting it. (For the method of creaming butter, see " Puddings.") 2. Add the sugar and beat it thoroughly. If a very large amount is used, part may be beaten into the eggs. 8. Add the seasoning — spices, lemon= juice, flavoring extracts, etc., as given in each recipe, and incorporate them well with the but- ter and sugar. 4. Add the beaten yolks of eggs, and beat all well together. 5. Add the milk. 6. Add the flour, which should be already thoroughly mixed with the baking powder. Stir it in, a little at a time, or add a little flour and milk alternately, stirring continually, and now beat long and vigorously to fill it with air and make the cake smooth and fine-grained. 7. Add the beaten whites of eggs. 8. Add the fruit, if used, which should be already dusted with flour. Make fruit cakes a little stiffer with flour than those without fruit. Sift baking powder and cream of tartar into the flour. Usually the soda is dissolved in the milk or water, but sometimes it is sifted into the flour. Beat continuously, from beginning to end of the process. Place the dough in the prepared cake=tins and send to the oven as soon as possible, when finished, so that the air which has been beaten in (and which, by expanding, makes it light) may not escape. Always work cake together with a spoon, if possible, but when a large quantity of fruit cake is made, it is necessary to use the hand in order to mix it properly. For sponge cakes (which are those made without butter or short- ening) proceed as follows: (1) Beat the yolks. (2) Gradually add the sugar and beat well. (3) Add the flavoring and water, if used. 352 CAKE (4) Add the well=beaten whites of eggs. (5) Sift in the flour and carefully fold it in. After adding the flour, sponge cakes, unlike other cakes, should not be beaten. If beaten like other cake, after adding the flour, sponge cake will be tough and unwholesome, but if after folding in the flour, the cake is put directly into the oven it will be tender and digestible. The lightness depends on the quantity of air beaten into the egg. Less beating is required when soda and cream of tartar are used, but the cake is not as good. Always use an earthen bowl or pan, for mixing cake. Butter and sugar, if worked to a cream in tin, is apt to be discolored. Beat the eggs with a silver or wooden spoon. As a rule (in cold weather, always), pour hot water into the mixing^bowl to warm it; then wipe dry. This facilitates the blending of the butter and sugar, and is the first operation. If a large quantity of cake is to be made, the cook should have an assistant; for a small quantity, and if the cook is alone, every- thing in the way of ingredients or utensils should be ready at hand on the cooking table, so that there will be no delay. Much depends on mixing the cake rapidly, and immediately placing it in the oven. Those who will bear the above rules in mind can handle any cake, so far as the mixing is concerned. Beating and Stirring. — There is a good deal of difference between beating and stirring. Stirring merely mixes the different ingredi- ents together, while beating carries in air and thoroughly distributes it through the mass, and in baking, this air expands and makes the cake light. Unless the air is well beaten into the dough, no after attention will make it light and wholesome. After putting in the beaten white of egg, too much subsequent beating will let the air escape and so be a detriment. It is heating, not stirring, which is needed throughout the process. Cake Baked in Paper. — If there is danger that cake will rise above the top of a pan and run out, or if you have a large cake and the pan is too small to hold it, the cake can be baked in paper as shown in the accompanying engraving. Make the paper case out of thick glazed paper, coat it thickly with butter, put in the cake, and the paper will not burn in a moderate oven. Cake Pans. — Layer cakes are baked in thin cakes in tins made for the pur- pose, sometimes called jelly=cake tins. Loaf cakes are baked in deep bread tins, cake baked in papeb. CAKE 353 or hoops and large pans made for the purpose. Flat loaves are usu- ally baked in the old-fashioned brick shaped tins and are 1 or 2 inches in thickness. The cake pans (with a few exceptions found among the recipes) should be well buttered, and clean, thick manilla or heavy writing paper fitted to the bottoms of the pans, and for rich fruit or wedding- cakes which require baking for hours, 3 or 4 thicknesses will be a safe=guard against burning the bottoms of the cakes. Butter well the top sheet next the cake. It is not necessary to line the sides and ends of the pans if they are well buttered; a knife slipped around the cake will easily detach it. In baking layer cakes the pans are not usually papered to pre- vent them from sticking, but when paper is not used butter the pans well, throw in a handful of flour and shake it well over the inside of the pan; then drop it, bottom side upward, to remove all the flour which does not adhere to the butter. If layer cakes do not easily remove from the pans, leave them for a few moments bottom side upwards, turned on a cloth, and the steam from the cakes will soon cause them to drop. If buttered paper is used put it in buttered side up, and let it overlap the sides about 1 inch to assist in lifting out the cake. If a cake pan with a tube in the center is used the cake will bake more evenly. Many substitutes are devised by those who are without such pans, such as a lamp-chimney, glass bottle or paper tube. They should be greased, and placed in the center of the pan before the batter is poured in. Something weighted down is best, like a tumbler or bottle filled with sand. The Oven and Baking. — While cake is being made there should be no other cooking done on the stove, for as success depends very much on the baking, the cake maker should constantly watch and have absolute control of the fire. Make the fire the first thing, and while the oven is heating mix and prepare the cakes. In the absence of a thermometer, a few rules are here given for testing the heat of the oven, but as every stove or range bakes a little differently from others, the cook must learn by practice the proper heat required for different kinds of cake (1) Put white writing paper in the oven, and if it turns to a dark yellow color — not brown — in five minutes, the oven is of the right temperature for most cakes. (2) Place a little flour on a tin^ plate, and set it in the oven; if it turns a dark yellow in 5 minutes the heat is right. (8) Hold the hand in the oven and count 12. If you cannot do this the oven is too hot. 23 354 CAKE Small cakes require a quick oven when they are first put in, to make them rise, but the heat should not be increased after they have begun to bake. Large cakes should be put into a more moderate oven, in order that they may be well done in the middle before they are over-done on the outside. Cake will not be light if the oven is too cold at first, or if it is too hot and bakes the cake too quickly. The oven is too hot if it browns the cake before it rises. Cake should first rise at the edge, the middle should come up, crack a little, then settle back and the cracks close. Too much flour has been used if it rises in the cen- ter the most, cracks, and remains up. Most loaf cakes require an oven about the same as bread, but layer cakes are best baked quickly and need a brisk fire. For all cake the temperature should be even. For this reason avoid stirring the fire or crowding on heat during the process of baking, and if the fire is replenished add a little fuel at a time to keep the heat uniform. If the oven is too hot, slip one of the stove lids partially off for a little while, thus checking the draft. If the oven bakes too rapidly on the bottom, an inverted drip- ping-pan may be placed in it, or if required, the bottom of the oven can be covered with hard^baked bricks. If it bakes too rapidly at the top, placing a thin hard=wood board, or a thick piece of paste-board on the top grate, over the cakes, is much better than covering the cakes with paper, which is likely to interfere with the crust as the cake rises. Open the oven as little as possible, and do not let a draft of cold air strike the cakes or they will fall, and do not move them till they " set " or brown a little on top. Thin cakes (flat loaves) may be turned in the oven, if neces- sary, after baking 10 minutes; thick loaves of rich cake should not be moved in less than 20 or 30 minutes, and then the turning should be very gently done or they may be heavy in the center. The old " test" for cake was to insert a piece of clean broom=straw or a fine knitting-needle free from rust, and if the cake was done it would come out free from dough; another test is to hold the cake to the ear and listen closely; if done it will be silent; if there is the least noise return it at once to the oven. Another sign is its settling down a little and shrinking from the pan. Fruit Cake. — It is better to steam fruit cake 3 hours and then transfer it quickly to a well heated oven and bake 1 hour, than to rely on baking alone. It is also a good plan to allow fruit cakes to stay in the oven until the fire dies down, after they are baked, plan- ning to bake them the latter part of the day, and leaving until even- ing. ' CAKE 355 Gingerbread. — Mix soft gingerbreads as soft as they can be han- dled, and keep the molding- board well floured to prevent the dough from sticking. Use New Orleans molasses as we explained for other cake. Watch the oven closely, as molasses cakes burn more easily than others. If, before rolling out the dough, it gets too stiff, set it before the fire. Lemon or orange flavor can be added when desired, and many think it an improvement, and the same with raisins, fruit, etc. Ginger can be replaced by other spices, like cinnamon and nutmeg, by those who prefer their flavor to ginger. Yolks of eggs improve gingerbread even when not prescribed in the recipe; and yolks left from other cooking can be worked into gingerbread to advantage; 2 yolks equal one egg, and can be so used for this purpose. EXTKACTS AND FLAVOKINGS. These are often adulterated. Many of them can be easily and successfully made at home, and much cheaper than to buy them, while their purity will then be assured. In making extracts use deodorized alcohol always. If the oils used are not pure and fresh they will spoil the extract by giving it a tur- pentine taste. If a little extract is dropped on anything after it is bated, less will be needed, because heat partially destroys the flavor. It is therefore better not to add extracts to anything while hot. Essence of Allspice. — Add to a wine=glass of strong spirits, 1 drachm of the oil of allspice. This is used, 2 or 3 drops at a time, for puddings, soups, etc. Allspice is the popular name given to Pimento or Jamaica peppeb. It is the berry of a tree (the Pimenta Offi- cinalis) which grows in the West Indies and South America, and attains a height of 15 to 20 feet. The berries are picked green and dried in the sun, when they become black. Pimento contains about 4 per cent of an aromatic pungent oil much like cloves. It is a mild, agreeable and innocent spice. ALLBPIOE. : Almond.— Crush 1 cup of the kernels of peach stone, and soak them in 2 cups alcohol. In using, allow 1 teaspoon of the extract for 1 quart of cake dough or custard. The flavor is very much like almonds. Bedford Flavoring.— Put into a bottle 8 drops of peppermint, the same of oil of rose, and | cup deodorized alcohol; shake well, and keep corked. Essence of Celery.— Soak for 12 or 14 days | oz. of celery seeds in 356 CAKE ^ pint of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup equal to a head of celery. Cherry and Plum. — The kernels of cherry and plum stones, steeped in brandy, make a nice flavoring liquid for tarts, etc. Citronelle. — Take the grated rind of 1 orange and 1 lemon peel, rub them to a pulp, and add ^ of a nutmeg grated; add 1 cup water and 6 whole cloves, and gently boil 2 or 3 minutes; then strain, and add 1 cup sugar, and boil to a thin syrup; keep it in a bottle. Coffee. — Infuse ^ lb. of the best ground and roasted coflfee, in 1 pint alcohol. Curacoa. — This is nothing but a tincture of the Curacoa orange peel, sweetened and flavored with essential oils. Orange juice can be used in its place for flavorings; or orange essence, tinctured with cinnamon, mace or cloves. Laural Flavoring. — Take an earthen bowl, and break into it 7 or 8 bay leaves, and add 4 cloves and ^ of a nutmeg grated; then add ^ cup of water and steep for a few minutes on the stove in a basin of hot water, and covered with a saucer; now strain, add 2 tablspoons of sugar, and when cold add ^ cup deodorized alcohol. Keep bottled for use. Lemon. — Put lemon peel, cut into small pieces, into a bottle, add alcohol enough to cover it, cork, and set it in a warm place 5 or 6 days, until the alcohol extracts the essential oil from the rind. It can be strengthened by adding oil of lemon, (about -| oz. to an 8 oz. bottle) or weakened by adding more alcohol. It is easily made, cheap and good. Orange extract is made in the same way as the lemon. Maraschino. — This, when genuine, is made from the kernel of the Marasca cherry, which is grown only in Dalmatia. It is often made from the oil of bitter almonds, blended with oils of cinnamon, rose= water, etc. A similar flavor can be made as follows: Infuse ^ lb. of kernels of cherries (bruised), in 1 quart of alcohol for 6 days; add 1 drachm of oil of maraschino, and 1 lb. of white sugar, made into a syrup by boiling it in | quart of water down to a pint; strain through a fine sieve, and bottle for use. Make ^ or ^ the quantity if desired. Noyau. — This is made from white brandy and bruised bitter al- monds. It contains a large proportion of prussic acid derived from the bitter almonds. The best comes from Martinique, but it is expensive and often imitated. Make thus: Infuse some fresh young peach leaves in whisky for a couple of days; then strain the infusion and mix with clarified syrup when cold. With age it will nearly equal the genuine. CAKE 357 Ratafias. — This is the name given to spirituous liquors flavored with the kernels of various fruits, such as peaches, cherries, apricots, etc., used as flavoring for sweet dishes. Although delicious when used sparingly, they are unpleasant or even poisonous if used to excess. Peach or apricot leaves infused in alcohol can be used in- stead of ratafia for flavoring pudding. The ratafia cakes are fla- vored with almonds. Cherry Ratafia — Take 1 lb. Morrella cherries with the kernels bruised, 1 pint proof spirits, ^Ib. sugar; let it soak 2 weeks, and strain through flannel. Currant Ratafia. — Take f cup black currant juice, 2 grains cin- namon, 2 grains cloves, 2 grains peach kernels, 1 pint brandy, 6 oz. white sugar; let stand 2 weeks, and strain through flannel. Rose Extract. — Let rose leaves soak in alcohol till the essential oil is extracted (about a week); then strain, and add about ^ drachm of otto of roses to 1 pint of the extract. Tea Flavoring. — Take about 4 teaspoons of tl;ie best black tea, crush it and put it into a bowl (it is a good plan to mix 2 or 3 differ- ent kinds); pour on about f cup of freshly boiled water, and boiling hot; cover it with a saucer, and let it steep 10 or 12 minutes; then strain through cloth and use. Vanilla. — Cut up 5 or 6 vanilla beans, pods and all, put them in a pint bottle, fill with alcohol, and in a few days the alcohol will extract the essential oil. Equal parts of vanilla and tonka beans can be used, and a very good flavoring extract produced. The tonka beans should be soaked in warm water till the skin can be rubbed off, and then both should be cut in small pieces. Vanilla sugar is prepared by cutting up the pods, putting them in a mortar with 10 or 12 times as much sugar, and pounding fine; then pass it through a fine sieve, pound again if necessary, and keep in a bottle tightly corked. Or the beans can be cut up, put in a jar, covered with the sugar, and covered tightly. Use the sugar as needed, adding more as long as the beans fla- vor it. Syrup of vanilla is simple syrup flavored with essence of vanilla. The vanilla bean is the fruit of a plant (an orchid) indigenous to Mexico, Peru, Brazil, etc. The fruit is cyl- tonka bean. indrical in shape and is filled with small, black, oily seeds. Its odor is due to the presence of benzoic acid, and is so powerful that it is said to intoxicate those who climb the trees to gather it. Vanilla is not suitable for flavoring food for invalids because of its medicinal qualities. It is a gentle stimulant and promotes digestion. The Mexican beans are the best. 358 CAKE The tonka beans are the seeds of the Diptems odorata, which is a native of Guiana. The odor comes from a volatile oil which they contain. Rose Water. — This can be prepared by putting a large pinch of carbonate of magnesia, and 4 drops of kissaulik otto of rose into 2 pints of pure water; then filter through fine muslin or filter paper. If the otto is good it will make a fine rose water, and will keep in- definitely. Orange Flower Water. — This can be prepared the same way, using 4 drops of oil of neroli Begarade, instead of the otto of rose. To Grate Lemon Peel. — Lemon peel gives a different flavor from any extract. There is a right and wrong way to grate it. The flavor comes from an essential oil found only in the yellow rind at the surface. The white part underneath is bitter, contains no lemon flavor, will curdle milk or cream, and is objectionable. Therefore grate a lemon carefully, aiming to remove all the yellow surface, hut no more. Begin at the end, turn the lemon round as it is grated, and work evenly^ and it can be easily and smoothly done. This gives the zest as it is called. Orange peel can be grated the same way. Either can be used for sherbets, cakes, puddings, etc. They can be kept on hand for use by mixing them with powdered sugar, (use 4 parts sugar to 1 part grated peel) and keep in tightly corked bottes. COOKING IN HIGH ALTITUDES. In all high altitudes the rule is to use less butter and sugar, and more flour and eggs. If too much butter is used in such regions the cake will fall, so that very rich cakes cannot be made there. The greater the elevation the more difficulty is experienced. Cakes having no butter like sponge cake, are easily made in high altitudes. (See also our " Denver cake.") The filling for layer cakes can be made quite rich in such regions, if desired. The reason for the foregoing rule appears to be this: The object in beating eggs is to fill them with air, which the tenacious albumen of the egg holds, and carries into the cake, but in high altitudes the air thus incorporated is much lighter than at sea level, and the cake will fall unless it is "held up," so to speak, by a stiff batter; hence the rule is to "Double the flour, or divide the egg, and use less butter." It is found in these regions that powdered sugar works better than granulated. This rare atmosphere is very dry, and quickly dries cake and bread. These should be kept in a close box, in which vessels of water are placed to keep the air moist. Owing to this dryness of the air, however, meats will keep much longer than in damper climates. The effect of light air on boiling water we spoke of in explaining about boiling meat. It is difficult to cook anything by boiling at all, above what is known as " the timber line." Eggs must be boiled 10 minutes to even be "soft" on Pike's Peak. LAYEK CAKES 359 LAYER CAKES. Let layer cakes cool on some flat surface, like an inverted jelly- tin, rather than on an uneven surface, like a plate. An inverted jelly- tin also makes a good base on which to build up a jelly cake, and it should be left there till cold. Those with a little experience can vary the fillings for jelly cakes and make many attractive combina- tions, but the novice will best adhere to her recipes closely. , For Time to Bake see " Loaf Cakes." FILLINGS. Layer cakes, when analyzed, will be found to consist of a cake baked in layers (difPerent recipes being often quite similar) and then various fillings are used. We give an exceptionally full list of difPer- ent fillings which are suitable for use with any good recipe for layer cake, and many varieties are thus easily produced. ALMOND FILLING — Use 1 cup thick sour jam, 1 teaspoon vanilla, 1 lb. almonds, blanched and chopped fine, and sugar to taste or make sweet. Or, (2) Stir blanched and chopped almonds into whipped or mock whipped cream, and spread between layers. Or, (3) Mix chopped almonds into the icing filling given below. APPLE FILLING — Cook 2 large apples until soft; then add 1 cup sugar, the well=beaten yolk of 1 egg, and the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon; cook all, about 5 minutes, and spread between the layers while warm. Or, (2) Mix slices of apple in the icing filling given below. DRIED FRUIT FILLING — To 4 cups of the best evaporated ap- ples, take 3 cups of nice dried raspberries, and let them cook slowly for 3 or 4 hours; then work through the colander and add 2 cups of sugar (or more, if preferred) and flavor with vanilla. This is nice for layer cake, short cake, and with meats. BANANA FILLING — Mash 6 bananas, add the juice of 1 lem- on, and 3 tablespoons of sugar — more if liked. Or, (2) Mix sliced bananas with the whipped cream or icing fillings given below. CARAMEL FILLING — Take 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup brown sugar, ^ tablespoon butter (scant,) ^ cup sweet milk; boil about 7 minutes; add 1 teaspoon vanilla, beat, and spread on cake. CHOCOLATE FILLING — Into | cup milk scrape 2 squares of chocolate and add 3 tablespoons sugar (heaping); boil till thick, and spread between layers and on top. 360 LAYER CAKES CREAM CHOCOLATE FILLING — Take 1| cups of confection- er's sugar and just enough sweet cream to moisten; mix well, set the vessel containing it in a kettle of hot water and let it come to the boiling point; then add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, also enough grated chocolate to give a light or dark color, as desired. Beat until cool and stiff; then add a teaspoon of vanilla; spread be- tween and on the top of layer cakes. COCOANUT FILLING — Use either a plain or boiled icing, and stir in either grated or dessicated cocoanut. The cocoanut is some- times soaked in milk for ^ hour before using it. CRANBERRY FILLING — On each layer spread rich cranberry jelley, and cover it with white icing. CREAM FILLING — One pint of sweet milk; 1 small cup of sugar; put it over the fire, in a double boiler, or pail set in a kettle of boiling water; just before it boils add 2 well=beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and 2 tablespoons of corn= starch dissolved in a little cold milk; stir until it thickens. When cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon. WHIPPED CREAM FILLING — Whip 1 cup sweet cream to a stiff froth; sweeten and flavor to taste, and spread on. The cream will froth easier if put on ice ^ hour before whipping. MOCK WHIPPED CREAM.— Take 1 large sour apple, peel- ed and grated, 1 cup white sugar, white of 1 egg; beat all together a long time. Flavor with vanilla. Mix the apple with the sugar as soon as possible after grating, or it will turn dark. Use like whipped cream. Delicious. Try it. CUSTARD FILLING.^Spread good custard between layers, hav- ing it slightly cool before spreading it on. DATE FILLING — Take 2 lbs. dates, remove the seeds, chop fine and add cold water enough to make a smooth paste. Figs may be prepared the same way. FIG FILLING. — (1) Use 1 cup chopped figs, | cup hot water, 1 small cup powdered sugar; cook till soft, and spread between layers. Or (2) Stir chopped figs into the icing filling given below. ICING FILLING — Beat together whites of 3 eggs and 1 cup pulverized sugar; add ^ teaspoon of any flavoring desired. This can be varied by stirring in any fruit desired, such as stoned and seeded raisins, chopped almonds, bananas, berries, figs, dates, etc. BOILED ICING FILLING — Put a little water on 2 cups of gran- ulated sugar — just enough to dissolve it; let it boil until it threads LAYER CAKES 361 from a spoon; pour it slowly on the well=beaten whites of 2 eggs, beating all the time, until thick enough to spread on the cake; add a teaspoon of any flavoring desired. As it cools any kind of fruit can be stirred in if desired. JELLY FILLING. — Fruit jelly, jam or marmalade of almost any kind is nice spread between layers of cake. Add a layer of icing also if desired. LEMON FILLING. — Use 1 lemon (juice and grated rind), 1 egg, ^ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, butter size of walnut. Beat all together, set on stove and let boil up a minute. LEMON HONEY FILLING.— Use 1 lb. loaf sugar, 2 whole eggs, yolks of 8 eggs, ^ lb. butter, juice of 6 lemons, grated rind of 2 lem- ons. Put the sugar, lemon and butter into a sauce^pan, and melt over a gentle fire; when all is dissolved stir in the eggs, which have been well beaten; stir rapidly until it is as thick as honey. Spread this between ihe layers of cake. Set aside the remainder in a closely covered vessel for future use. MAPLE FILLING — Take 1 cup maple sugar, 1 cup white sugar and ^ cup of water; boil until it will form in stifip drops when dropped into cold water; cool until slightly warm, and add whites of 2 eggs, beaten stiff; spread between the layers of cake. MOCK MAPLE FILLING.— Take 2 cups good brown sugar, ^ cup sweet cream, butter size of large egg; boil together carefully 12 minutes; strain through a hair sieve or double cheese cloth. Flavor with 1| teaspoons vanilla. Let it cool and thicken before spreading on cake. NUT FILLING — Take 1 cup sugar, 1 cup thick cream, (sweet or sour) 1 cup hickory nuts chopped fine; boil all together until thick. Any other oily nuts can be used instead, such as peanuts, almonds or butternuts. ORANGE FILLING — Take the juice and grated rind of 2 oran- ges, stir in as much powdered sugar as the liquid will take up, and spread it between layers. This may be varied by stirring in des- sicated cocoanut with the sugar, and then sprinkling dry cocoanut on top of the cake. Or use the whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff, grated rind and juice of 1 orange made thick with pulverized sugar; beat all well together and use. Or mix slices of orange into the icing filling given above. ORANGE FILLING No. 2.— One cup sugar wet with 3 table- spoons of orange juice (enough drops from the oranges as you slice 362 LAYER CAKES them, if not, use water); 1 table'spoon of butter. Simmer this on the stove until a nice syrup, and when boiling add 2 beaten eggs; remove from stove and stir briskly. When cold add orange or lemon flavor and the sliced fruit, and spread between the layers. ORANGE AND COCOANUT FILLING — Beat 1 egg stiff, add 1 cup sweet cream, 1 cup grated cocoanut, juice and ^ the grated rind of 1 large orange and -^ cup sugar. Sj)read it between layers and on top of cake, and sprinkle on fresh grated cocoanut. PEACH OR FRUIT CREAM FILLING.— Out peaches into thin slices, or chop them, and prepare cream by whipping and sweeten- ing. Put a layer of peaches between the layers of cake, and pour the cream over each layer and over the top. Bananas, straicherries, and other fruit may be used the same way, mashing the strawberries when used, and strewing them thick with powdered sugar. PINEAPPLE FILLING — Chop 1 pineapple fine. and cook it with f its weight of sugar; while hot, add ^ box of gelatine (having had that soaking in cold water for 1 hour before.) It should be thick enough not to run. Spread thickly on all layers but the top one. PLUM FILLING — Stew plums till soft, remove pits and skins, and pass the pulp through a coarse sieve. Spread between layers. Or (2) stew, chop, and stir the plums into the icing filling given above. PRUNE FILLING. — Stew, stone "and chop the prunes and stir them into the icing filling given above. RAISIN FILLING.^Seed and chop 1 cup of raisins, and stir them into the icing filling given above. Or, use equal amounts of raisins and blanched almonds (chopped) if desired. RAISIN FILLING No. 2 — Take 1 cup maple syrup, add a little vinegar to prevent its graining, boil till it threads from a spoon; then add 1 cup raisins, seeded and chopped, and stir till cold. RHUBARB FILLING — Yolks of 2 eggs, beaten, ^ cup sugar, i cup butter, ^ cup rhubarb juice, strained and sweetened; set the dish containing this mixture in a pan of hot water, and stir continually until the paste is smooth and thick. Then spread between layers of cake. STRAWBERRY FILLING — Take white of 1 egg, beat till very LAYER CAKES 363 stiff, add f cup of sugar and beat again; then add f cup fresh strawberries bruised to a pulp, and beat till stiff. STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY FILLING Spread icing over each layer, and cover the icing with choice fresh strawberries or rasberries, or stir the fruit into the icing before spreading it on. TUTTI FRUTTI FILLING.— Make a soft icing with whites of 2 eggs, well beaten, and pulverized sugar. Flavor with vanilla or lemon if desired. Then stir into it ^ cup best raisins, seeded and chopped fine, 2 tablespoons currants, washed, dried and picked, 2 tablespoons orange marmalade. Enough for 2 good sized layer cakes. Other combinations of fruit can be easily devised by the ingenious cook, and stirred into a soft icing. Almonds (chopped), raisins (seeded and chopped) and cocoanut make a nice combina- tion. So do figs, almonds and citron. LAYER CAKE. i cup butter. 1 pint flour. 1 cup sugar (heaping). 2 level teaspoons baking i cup milk. powder. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. Bake in layers. This is a standard recipe. It can be varied, if desired, by using i to 1 cup of corn=starch in place of that much flour, and 4 to 6 eggs could be used if preferred; also rich cream instead of milk, and any other extract instead of the lemon. Use any of the preceding fillings desired. 1-2-3 CAKE. i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 2 cups sugar. Any flavoring desired. 3 eggs. Bake in layers. Filling. — Use 1 cup milk; 2 eggs; i cup sugar; lump of butter the size of a large hickory nut; any fla- voring desired. Bring the milk to a boil; thicken the Qgg with flour and add to the boiling milk. When off the fire stir in 1 cup cocoanut. Also sprinkle cocoanut over the top of cake when it is done. 364 LAYER CAKES ALMOND CAKE. 2 cups butter. . 3 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 4 cups flour. 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers and use the almond filling given among our fillings. APPLE JELLY CAKE. 2 tablespoons butter. 1 egg. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers, and use the apple filling given among the previous fillings. CHOCOLATE CAKE No. 1. i cup butter. 4 eggs. 2 cups powdered sugar. 2 cups flour (well filled). i cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Divide into 3 parts and bake 2 layers as mixed. Into the third part mix i cup grated chocolate and bake. For the icing, boil 1 cup white sugar and 3 spoonfuls water till it ropes; add the white of an egg and beat together until white. Ice each layer, putting the dark layer in the center, and ice the top. BEATEN CREAM CAKE. i cup butter. 3 whites of eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2i cups flour. I cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Bake in 3 layers and put together with thick sweet cream beaten with a little pulverized sugar. Or use the '' mock whipped cream " given among the fillings. CHEAP CREAM CAKE. 1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. Add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring and bake in lay- ers. Use the cream filling given among our fillings. LAYER CAKES 365 CHOCOLATE CAKE No. 2. i cup butter. 2 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour, i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. Bake in layers. Chocolate Cream For Filling. — Take k cup milk, yolk of 1 ^gg^ i cup chocolate, 1 teaspoon vanilla; sweeten to taste; boil until thick as jelly. Spread between layers when cold. COCOANUT CAKE. 1 cup butter. 10 whites of eggs. 2 cups sugar. 3i cups flour. 1 cup sweet milk. 2i teaspoons baking powder. Filling. — Whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff and sugar enough added to keep it from running; spread it on layers, and sprinkle cocoanut between layers and on top of cake. COCOANUT CAKE No. 2. \ cup butter. h cup corn=starch. li cups sugar. li cups flour, i cup water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 6 whites of eggs. k teaspoon soda. Bake in layer tins. Then take the whites of 3 eggs and beat to a froth with 6 tablespoons of sugar and 1 cup grated cocoanut. Use it for both filling and frost- ing. CREAM CAKE. 1 cup sugar. 1\ cups flour. 3 eggs. 2 small teaspoons baking 3 tablespoons water. powder. Bake in 4 jelly tins, and when done spread the lay- ers with the cream filling given among our fillings. Do not spread on the filling till the cake is cold. If preferred it can be baked in 2 ordinary pie tins and split open when cold. 366 LAYER CAKES CUSTARD CAKE. 1 cup sugar. li cups flour. 3 eggs, beaten separate. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 2 tablespoons cold water Flavor to taste, added to the beaten whites. Bake in 2 tins in a hot oven; split when hot, and spread with custard. DATE CAKE. 1 cup butter. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 2 cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 5 eggs. Bake in 5 layers, and use the date filling given among our fillings. DENVER CAKE. i cup butter. 1 cup sweet milk, li cups sugar. 3 cups sifted flour. 6 eggs. 2 teaspoons baking powder. This cake must be well beaten. It will make 5 layers. Use any filling desired. It can be made in high altitudes. ECONOMICAL LAYER CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 1 tablespoon corn=starch made smooth in 1 cup sweet milk. Bake in thin sheets. Use cream, cocoanut, jelly or any filling desired. FIG LAYER CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour (sifted). 1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 4 large or 5 small eggs. 1 teaspoon vannilla. i cup milk. Bake in 4 layers. When cold spread on our " Fig Filling, No. 1." LAYER CAKES 367 IROQUOIS CAKE. i cup butter. li cups flour. 1 cup powdered sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder 3 whites of eggs. (scant). i cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. Bake in 2 tins, and use the '' icing filling " given among our fillings. JELLY CAKE. i cup butter. i cup milk. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 3 eggs. . 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon of any flavoring. Bake in layers. Spread jelly between layers for filling. PEACH CAKE. Bake sponge cake in 3 layers as for jelly cake; take fine ripe peaches, chop fine or slice thin. Between layers and on top put a layer of the peaches and cover them with either the whipped cream or mock whipped cream given among our fillings. Eat soon after pre- paring it. ROCHESTER JELLY CAKE. LIGHT PAET. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 6 whites of eggs. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 1 cup sweet milk. Bake in 3 layers. DAEK PAET, i cup butter. 2 cups seeded raisins. 1 cup brown sugar. i cup citron (chopped fine). i cup molasses. i teaspoon cloves. 1 egg. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 2 cups flour. i nutmeg, grated. i teaspoon soda dissolved 1 teaspoon lemon extract, in i cup coffee. Bake in 2 layers. Put light and dark parts alternately, spreading jelly between the layers. Frost the top. 368 LAYEK CAKES ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour (heaping). 3 eggs. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 2 tablespoons milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. Bake in a long tin, and while warm spread with jelly or jam (raspberry is best) and roll thus; spread a towel on the table, lay on the cake, and roll, keeping towel over it to prevent its cracking. Do not take off towel until the cake is cold. MINNEHAHA CAKE. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk. Flavor with lemon. 8 whites of eggs. Filling. — Use 1 cup blanched almonds, and 2 cups seeded raisins, chopped fine; mix these with a boiled frosting, and flavor with lemon. Put blanched almonds in halves in the frosting on top. NUT LAYER CAKE. \ cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. li teaspoons baking pow- h cup sweet milk. der. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla. Use the " Nut Filling " given among our fillings. ORANGE CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup water. 1 orange, juice and grated 5 yolks of eggs. rind. 3 whites of eggs. Use the orange filling No. 1 given among our fill- ings. CORN=STARCH JELLY CAKE. 1 cup butter. 1 cup flour. 2 cups sugar. 7 whites of eggs. 1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 1 cup corn=starch. h teaspoon soda. Bake in layers. Spread any good jelly between layers for filling. LAYER CAKES 369 ORIENTAL CAKE. WHITE AND PINK LAYERS. i cup butter. i cup corn=starch. 1 cup granulated sugar. li cups flour. i cup milk. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 3 whites of eggs. powder. Beat butter and sugar to cream, add milk and corn=starch, first stirring them together, then the flour and baking powder, and last the whites of eggs beaten light. Divide the mixture in two, and into i put as much pink coloring as you like, the object being to form different colored layers. YELLOW AND BEOWN PARTS. i cup butter. 1 whole egg. 1 cup sugar. If cups flour. i cup sweet milk. H teaspoons baking powder. 4 yolks of eggs, beaten light. After mixing divide into 2 parts, and to 1 part add: 1 oz. grated chocolate, 1 tablespoon of water, 3 tea- spoons of sugar and i teaspoon of vanilla, which should be stirred until smooth over a hot fire. Bake all the layers in jelly=pans in a moderate oven — it should bake in about 20 minutes. For filling use 1 cup powdered sugar, and whites of 2 eggs, beaten light. Use the brown cake for the bot- tom layer, spread over it a thin coating of the filling and cover with a layer of thin slices of figs placed close together; next the yellow cake with icing and sliced oranges free from seeds and rind; next, whites with icing and cocoanut; finish with the pink layer spread with a firm, white icing, decorated with almonds and candies. It is best eaten fresh. This makes a deli- cious cake. If desired, you can leave out all the filling except the icing. 24 370 LAYER CAKES POLONAISE CAKE. 1 cup butter (scant). 3 cups flour. 2 cups pulverized sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk. Bake in 4 layers. 7 whites of eggs. Filling. — Use 3 cups pulverized sugar boiled in a little water until brittle; then turn the hot sugar upon the beaten whites of 4 eggs, stirring until cold. On the first layer spread h lb. macaroons chopped fine and mixed with some of the frosting. On the second layer I lb. crystalized fruit, chopped fine, mixed with some of the frosting and flavored with leriion. Third layer, \ lb. blanched almonds and i lb. citron both, chopped fine and mixed with some of the frosting, flavored with 1 teaspoon extract of almonds and 1 teaspoon of rose water. Frost the top with the frosting left over, mixed with a little crystalized fruit. WHITE CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup powdered sugar. Ih teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup sweet milk. Flavor with almond. 2 whites of eggs. Bake in layers. Grated cocoanut mixed with sugar can be spread between the layers; or, if desired, an icing can be made of 1 cup powdered sugar, whites of two eggs, and enough dissolved chocolate to give it a rich dark color. COCOANUT WHITE CAKE. \ cup butter. 3 eggs. 1\ cups sugar. 2 cups flour. i cup sweet milk. 1\ teaspoons baking powder. Bake in jelly tins. Make a frosting of the whites of 2 eggs and i cup sugar, and beat into it some finely grated cocoanut Spread it between and on top of cake and set it aside to cool. LAYER CAKES 371 CREAM PUFFS. 3 cups flour. 2 cups boiling water. 1 cup butter. 5 eggs. A pinch of salt. Mix the flour, butter and salt, pour in the boiling water, beat lightly, and put on the stove in a rice boil- er; cook until it becomes thick, stirring constantly. Then take from stove, let it cool, and then break in the eggs 1 at a time. Drop on buttered dripping pan or gem irons, and bake. Have the puffs baked just before serving time; split and fill them with the custard filling given among our fillings, having it slightly cool before putting it in the puffs. RIBBON CAKE. i cup butter. 5 yolks of eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. i cup milk. li teaspoons baking powder. Mix and divide. Flavor one half with orange; for the other half use vanilla, and enough grated chocolate to color brown. Take enough for 1 layer out of each half. Then take i cup butter. 5 whites of eggs. li cups sugar. 2 cups flour. i cup milk. li teaspoons baking powder. Mix and divide. Flavor one half with lemon; flavor the other half with rose water, and with pulver- ized cochineal color it pink or red. Take enough for 1 layer out of each half. Then mix all the balance of the batter together and put in any kind of fruit desired — seedless raisins, currants or citron. Bake in 5 layers. Build the cake while hot, putting nothing between lay- ers. Have the fruit layers alternate with the brown, white, yellow and red. Frost top or not. 372 LOAF CAKES STKAWBERRY CAKE. Any sponge cake recipe will do; make the sponge cake dough in very thin layers and bake in biscuit pans. Beat the whites of 4 eggs, and when stiff add 4 teaspoons sugar. Have ready a dish of strawberries, sweetened enough to take away the acid taste, and spread it between the layers, covering the berries with the frosting. Cut in small squares and serve cold. VANITY CAKE. i cup butter. i cup corn=starch. li cups sugar. li cups flour. li cups sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 6 whites of eggs. Bake in 2 cakes, putting frosting between and on top. LOAF CAKES. Time to Bake. — Thin cakes will bake well in 15 to 20 minutes; thicker cakes require 30 to 40 minutes; and very thick ones will re- quire about 1 hour. Fruit cake will require from 2 to 3 hours. Do not take cakes out of the oven too soon. Let delicate cakes cool a little in the pans as they are apt to fall if taken out of them hot, but do not let cakes stay in the pans till moist. Let the air cir- culate around cakes freely to cool them, and have them thoroughly cold before putting them away. Keep them in a tin box or stone jar tightly closed. Any cake made with yeast is best eaten quite fresh. Cakes which are to be long kept, like wedding, black and fruit cakes, can be wrapped in waxed paper to advantage. Any caie can have powdered sugar dusted on it while warm; if it melts, more can be added after it cools. Use a warm knife if you cut cake while it is warm. ALMOND CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour, li cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup milk. 1 cup blanched almonds. 3 eggs. Blanch the almonds, split them lengthwise, dry them, and mix with the cake last. LOAF CAKES 373 APPLE CAKE. i cup butter and 2 eggs, i cup lard — melt these 4 teaspoons baking powder, together. Flour enough to make i cup sugar. rather soft. 2i cups milk. Pare and slice 7 or 8 apples and set them down into the top of the dough, close together, when it is in the pan. Sprinkle i cup sugar and some cinnamon on top of all. Bake slowly, and when the apples are done the cake is done. This makes a dripping pan full. APPLE CAKE No. 2. i cup butter. 2 cups preserved apples. 1 cup brown sugar. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 1 cup molasses. 1 nutmeg. 1 cup boiling water. 1 teaspoon soda. After these are well mixed together add 2 well= beaten eggs and 4 cups flour. To preserve the apples, take 1 quart of chopped apples and stew slowly in H cups molasses 4 or 5 hours, or until reduced to 1 pint. Bake in a moderate oven. Will keep several weeks. DRIED APPLE CAKE. 1 cup butter or cream. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sweet milk. Spice to taste. 3 cups flour. Soak 2 cups dried apples over night; in the morn- ing boil them 1 hour (or till soft) in 1 cup sugar and 1 cup molasses; when cold, add the above ingredients and bake. ANGEL'S FOOD. Take 1 tumbler of flour and put into it 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar and sift the whole 4 times; beat the whites of 11 eggs to a stiff froth and then beat in li tumblers of pulverized sugar, a teaspoon of vanilla, and a pinch of salt; then add the flour and beat thoroughly 374 LOAF CAKES but lightly; bake in a bright ungreased pan 40 to 45 minutes. When done, turn it over to cool, placing something under the corner of the pan so that the air will circulate underneath and assist the cooling; cut it out when cool. BLACK CAKE. li cups butter. 2 cups brown sugar. 2 cups sweet milk. 2 tablespoons molasses. 6 eggs beaten separate. 3 cups browned flour. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 teaspoon mace or nutmeg. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 teaspoon cloves. 4 cups currants. 1 cup citron. 4 cups raisins. Bake 3 hours. BLUEBERRY OR HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. tablespoon (rounding), cup sugar, cup milk, eggs. butter 2 cups flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder (scant). 1 cup berries, added last. BREAD CAKE. i cup butter added to i cup lard. 2 cups sugar. 2 eggs, well beaten. li cups raisins Nutmeg and cinnamon. 2 cups dough. 1 teaspoon soda. Work the cake thoroughly. BUTTERMILK CAKE. 1 teaspoon butter, 1 cup sugar. 1 cup buttermilk. 1 egg. 2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon soda. Spice to taste. Cheap and good. CAMERON CAKE (Without Eggs). h cup butter, li cups sugar. 1 cup sour milk. 3 cups sifted flour. i teaspoon soda. 2 cups chopped raisins. Nutmeg and cinnamon to taste. LOAF CAKES 375 CANADA CAKE ( Without Eggs.) i cup butter. 2i cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda in the sour milk. CHOCOLATE CAKE. 1 cup butter. 3i cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 5 eggs (leaving out whites of 2). For frosting beat the whites of the 2 eggs with sugar enough to keep it from running, and add i cake of sweet chocolate; flavor with vanilla. Apply the frosting while the cake is hot. CLOVE CAKE. 1 cup butter. i teaspoon cloves. 2 cups brown sugar. i nutmeg. 1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 egg. 1 cup raisins. 3 cups flour. i teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon soda. CIDEK CAKE. i cup butter. 4 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup cider. 1 cup raisins. 1 egg- CITRON CAKE. 1 cup butter. 4i cups flour. 3 cups brown sugar. 2i teaspoons baking powder. li cups sweet milk. 2 cups citron, cut fine. 7 eggs. COFFEE CAKE. 1 cup Dutter. 4i cups flour. 2 cups brown sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup strong coffee (cold). 1 cup raisins (chopped). 1 cup molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 3 eggs. 1 teaspoon cloves. 376 LOAF CAKES COLD WATER CAKE. 2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda. 1 cup cold water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 1 egg. CONFEDERATE CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 cups flour (level). 1 cup pulverized sugar 1 teaspoon lemon extract. (heaped). Frost if desired. 6 eggs. CORN=STARCH CAKE. i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2 cups corn=starch. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then the whites of egg to a stiff froth and mix; beat together, and add the corn=starch, a tablespoon at a time, beating constantly. Bake in a tin lined with buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven, about 1 hour. CORN^STARCH CAKE No. 2. 1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 1 cup corn=starch. 1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 4 eggs. 1 teaspoon soda. Sift soda, cream tartar, corn=starch and flour all together; add it to the other ingredients, and flavor with 1 teaspoon of any flavoring desired. CREAM CAKE. 1 cup sugar. 2i cups flour. 1 cup thick sour cream. 1 teaspoon saleratus (put 2 eggs. • into the cream). DELICATE CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour, li cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup sweet milk, 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 4 whites of eggs. LOAF CAKES 377 DENNISON CAKE {Without Eggs). h cup butter. 4 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon soda in the milk. 1 cup buttermilk. Spice to taste. 2 cups raisins. DATE CAKE. i cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 1 cup sugar, rounding full. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sweet milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. 2 eggs. A dash of nutmeg. 2i cups flour. 1 heaping cup of prepared dates. Prepare the dates as directed in the introduction to this chapter, and stir them in the last thing. Bake in a shallow pan. Cut in squares to serve. DOUGH CAKE. i cup butter. 1 cup chopped raisins (seed- 1 cup sugar. ed). 2 eggs. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 cup raised bread dough. A little nutmeg. i teaspoon soda. Mix the dough and butter thoroughly with the hand, then the sugar, then the eggs; add the fruit last. Do not let it stand to rise, but put it in a bread pan as soon as mixed and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. DOUGH CAKE (Economical). 2 lbs. raised dough. 1 lb. raisins (seeded). i cup butter. i nutmeg (grated). 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon saleratus. Mix well, put in greased pans, let rise about f hour, and bake in a moderate oven. FKENCH CAKE. i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 1 cup sugar, heaped. i nutmeg, grated. 1 cup cream. f cup raisins. i cup milk. 2 ounces citron, chopped. 6 eggs. * 2 ounces almonds, pounded. 378 LOAF CAKES 1 cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 1 cup milk. 6 yolks of eggs. FEATHER CAKE. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. I cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon. 3 eggs. • This also makes a nice layer cake, with jelly or chocolate between layers. FOUNTAIN CAKE. 2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. i teaspoon soda. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. Mix the above; stir in quickly the well=beaten whites of 4 of the eggs, reserving the whites of 2 for the frost- ing. Bake in loaves, and as soon as done cover with frosting. FEUIT CAKE. i cup butter. If cups flour. i cup brown sugar. i teaspoon soda, i cup molasses. 1 cup chopped raisins, i cup sweet milk. Cinnamon, citron and cloves. 1 egg. Flour the fruit before add- ing. FRUIT CAKE No. 2. 4 eggs well beaten. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup raisins (seeded). 1 cup currants. as thick as common stirred h cup butter. 1 cup sugar, i cup molasses, i cup water. Flour to make about cake (not too thick). It makes a large cake. FRUIT CAKE No. 3. li cups butter. 2 cups sugar (heaped). 1 teaspoon rose water. Juice of 2 lemons. 10 eggs. 4 cups flour. Flour the fruit and add it last, bake if in 1 loaf. 4 cups currants. 4 cups raisins (seeded). 1 cup citron. i cup almonds. 1 tablespoon of mace. Allow 2 hours to LOAF CAKES 379 i cup butter. 2i cups sugar. i cup sour milk. . 6 cups flour (about that). FKUIT CAKE {Economical). 1 teaspoon soda. h teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, cloves and nut- meg. 1 cup raisins, currants and citron, mixed. Knead all together, roll about 2 inches thick, and bake in a quick oven. STEAMED FRUIT CAKE. i cup butter (full). 2 cups brown sugar (heaped). 1 teacup milk. f cup molasses. 2 eggs. 4 cups flour. Put in a pan and steam 3 hours; then place in the oven 1 hour, to dry. 6 cups raisins. 2 cups citron. 1 nutmeg, grated, i tablespoon each cinna- mon and cloves. 1 teaspoon soda. WHITE FRUIT CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 cups v^hite sugar. 1 cup sweet milk. 5 whites of eggs. 3i cups flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 lb. almonds, blanched and cut fine. 1 lb. citron cut in thin slices. 1 grated cocoanut. GEORGIA CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 1 cup sweet milk. 4 eggs. i cup butter (scant). 1 cup sugar, i cup sweet milk. 4 y.olks of eggs. 3 cups flour. i cup corn=starch. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. GOLD CAKE. 2 cups flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 380 LOAF CAKES GKAHAM CAKE. i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. i cup raisins (seeded). 1 cup sour milk. i nutmeg, grated. 3i cups graham flour. GEOOM'S CAKE. 2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups raisins (seeded). 2 cups white sugar (heap- 2 lbs. almonds, blanched ed). and chopped. 10 eggs. i lb. citron, shaved fine. 4 cups flour. Stir the almonds into the cake; flour the raisins and citron and put a layer in the cake pan, then put in a layer of cake, then fruit again, and so on alternately, finishing with cake. Bake 2 hours in a moderate oven. HASTY CAKE. 1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 1 cup powdered sugar. 2 cups flour. i cup milk. 3 small teaspoons baking powder. Bake immediately in a quick oven; it may be baked in patty tins or in a loaf. Nice while fresh. HTCKOKY NUT CAKE. i cup butter. li cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. i cup sweet milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 2 eggs. (chopped). Add the nickory nut meats last. Frost it when baked, mark in squares, and put a nut meat in each square. ICE CREAM CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 cups sifted flour. 2 cups sugar. 1 cup corn^starch. 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 8 whites of eggs. LOAF CAKES 381 IMPEKIAL CAKE. 1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour (level). 1 cup sugar (heaped). i teaspoon soda. 2 teaspoons lemon juice. 1 cup raisins. i the grated rind of 1 lem- i cup walnuts (chopped), on. 5 eggs, beaten separately. Bake in a moderate oven li hours. Flour the fruit with a scant tablespoon of flour extra. LEMON CAKE. i cup butter. 2 to 2i cups flour. li cups sugar. 1 lemon, (juice and grated i cup sweet milk. rind). 3 eggs. i teaspoon soda. MAKBLE CAKE. LIGHT PART. i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. H cups white sugar. 2 cups flour, i cup sour milk. i teaspoon soda. i teaspoon lemon extract. DARK PART. i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. i cup sour milk. i teaspoon allspice. i cup molasses. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. 5 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- mon and cloves. Put alternate spoonfuls of each part into a butter- ed cake tin and bake slowly. CHOCOLATE MARBLE CAKE. 1 cup butter. 1 cup corn=starch. 2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 4 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 2 cups flour. After mixing all, take out 1 cupful of the batter and stir into it a heaping tablespoon of grated choco- late; drop this in the greased pan alternately with the other part. 382 LOAF CAKES MOLASSES CAKE ( Without Eggs). 1 cup butter, lard or drip- 5 cups flour. ping. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup Zante currants. 1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- 1 cup molasses. mon, cloves and allspice. ' Put in 2 bread=pans, with buttered paper, and bake an hour in a slow oven. ONE EGG CAKE. 1 cup butter, li cups sugar. 1 cup sweet milk. 3 cups flour. li teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup chopped raisins. 1 egg. MOUNTAIN CAKE. i cup butter. H cups sugar. i cup milk. 3 eggs. 2 large cups flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon of any flavoring. Fruit if desired. Add a little more flour if any fruit is added. OKANGE CAKE. i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 2 cups sugar. 2 cups flour. i cup water. . 2 teaspoons baking powder. 5 yolks of eggs. 1 orange, (juice and grated rind). PLUM CAKE. 1 large cup- butter. i lb. dates. 2 cups sugar (heaped). i teaspoon each mace and 12 eggs, beaten separately. cloves. 4 cups sifted flour. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon 1 lb. citron cut in thin and allspice, slices. i nutmeg, grated. 3 lbs. raisins, stoned and 3 tablespoons strawberry halved. jam added last. Ih lbs. currants. Flour the fruit before adding it; beat the mixture thoroughly, and bake in well=buttered tins 4 hours, keep- ing a steady heat. LOAF CAKES 383 POOR MAN'S CAKE. 1 tablespoon butter. 1 cup raisins. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon saleratus dis- 2 cups flour. solved in 1 cup sour milk. PORK CAKE. 1 cup boiling water pour- 1 cup molasses, ed over 1 lb. raisins. 1 lb. fat pork, chopped fine. 1 teaspoon soda. 2 cups sugar. Spices to taste. Stir in flour until quite stiff, and bake slowly. POUND CAKE. 1 lb. butter. 1 lb. flour. 1 lb. white sugar. i teaspoon mace. 12 eggs, beaten separately. 1 nutmeg, grated. 3 tablespoons rose=water. Beat eggs very thoroughly. QUICK CAKE. i cup butter. 2 eggs. i cup sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. i cup sweet milk. Add flour until it will not drop from the spoon* Can be eaten warm. RAISED CAKE. i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. 2 eggs. 1 cup sponge. i cup flour. 1 cup raisins. Spice to taste. Let rise 2 hours. RAISIN CAKE (Economical). i cup butter. i teaspoon soda. i cup sugar, i cup hot water. i cup molasses. 1 egg. 1 cup raisins. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon and cloves. Flour to make stiff enough to hold a spoon. 884 LOAF CAKES KAISIN CAKE. 1 cup buttei. 4 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 3i cups flour. 1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup molasses. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 teaspoon rose=water. 2 cups seeded raisins. SILVER CAKE. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 scant cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 5 whites of eggs. Cover with white frosting. This cake is sometimes baked in small round tins and called " Snow Cake." SPONGE CAKE, 1 cup granulated sugar. 1 saltspoon salt. 6 eggs, beaten separate. i the juice and grated rind 1 cup flour. of a lemon. After baking, while hot, dredge powdered sugar on top. SPONGE CAKE No. 2. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 3 tablespoons of water. li teaspoons baking powder. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoon flavoring. BERWICK SPONGE CAKE. 6 eggs. 1 cup water. 3 cups granulated sugar. 2 teaspoons baling powder. 5 cups flour. Juice and grated rind of 1 1 saltspoon of salt. lemon. Beat the eggs 2 minutes; add the sugar and beat 5 minutes; then 2 cups of flour and beat 2 minutes; add the water, lemon juice and peel with the salt and beat 1 minute. Have the baking powder mixed with the remaining 3 cups of flour, add and beat 1 minute. Bake slowly f hour in 2 deep bread pans. LOAF CAKES 385 COCOANUT SPONGE CAKE. 6 eggs, beaten separately. 1 teaspoon lemon essence. 1 cup sugar, heaped. h nutmeg, grated. 1 cup flour. Grated cocoanut. 1 teaspoon salt. Put it about i inch deep in tins lined with well= buttered paper. Bake in a quick oven about 30 min- utes. CORN^STARCH SPONGE CAKE. 1 cup pulverized sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. ^ cup flour. 8 whites of eggs, well beat- i cup corn=starch. en. 1 teaspoon of flavoring. Mix the flour, sugar, corn=starch and baking pow- der together dry, sifting all several times, and stirring thoroughly; then add the eggs and lemon flavor, and bake immediately. It is best baked in a long deep pan. — It also makes an excellent roll jelly cake; this quan- tity is enough for 2 large rolls; bake in long shallow tins; as soon as done, remove on a clean cloth, spread with, jelly, and roll up at once. CREAM SPONGE CAKE. 2 eggs, broken into 2 cups sifted flour. 1 teacup of cream. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup white sugar. 1 teaspoon of flavoring. A pinch of salt. Beat together for 5 or 10 minutes. Bake in a square baking tin about i hour. SPICE CAKE. i cup butter (scant). 2i cups flour. 2 cups brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sour milk. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 2 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon allspice. 1 white of egg. i teaspoon cloves. i nutmeg, grated. 25 386 LOAF CAKES SUNSHINE CAKE. 1 cup granulated sugar. | cup of flour. Whites of 7 small eggs. i teaspoon cream of tartar. Yolks of 5 small eggs. A pinch of salt. Beat yolks; beat whites about half, add cream of tartar and beat until very stiff; stir the sugar in lightly, then stir beaten yolks in thoroughly; add flour last. Put in a tube pan, if you have it, and bake 35 to 50 minutes, in a slov^ oven. TENNESSEE CAKE. i cup butter. 1 full teaspoon baking 1 cup sugar. powder, i cup milk. 1 cup currants. li cups flour. A few slices citron. Cloves and nutmeg. Bake in sheets, ice, and cut in squares. TROY CAKE. i cup butter. 5 whites of eggs. li cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. Divide the mixture and color i with strawberry coloring, and flavor with vanilla; flavor the other part with lemon. Put in the white, then the pink part, and bake slowly. WEDDING CAKE. 4 full cups butter. 18 eggs, beaten separately. 4 cups white sugar, heaped. 4 cups flour. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon saleratus. Juice of 2 lemons. i cup citron cut thin and 3 tablespoons cloves small. (ground). 4 cups seedless raisins. 2 tablespoons each of 4 cups currants, mace, allspice and nut- meg. Cream the butter and add the sugar, then the molasses, lemon and spices, then the beaten yolks, beat- ing all well together, then the flour with saleratus sifted LOAF CAKES 387 in, and last the beaten whites; beat all together thor- oughly. Flour the fruit and add last. Bake slowly 4 hours, or longer if needed. The cake will keep for years. WHITE CAKE. i cup butter. li cups flour. 1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup sweet milk. Flavor with lemon or va- 3 whites of eggs. nilla. WATERMELON CAKE. i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. h cup sweet milk. i teaspoon soda. 3 whites of eggs. Flavor with lemon. Take a little more than i of the mixture and to it add 1 teaspoon liquid cochineal and i cup raisins. Put the red part in the center and bake. Cover with a frosting colored green with spinach. WHITE CAKE {Without Eggs). 3 tablespoons nice fat. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 1 cup granulated sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup milk. Nutmeg or any flavoring 2i cups flour. desired. Add raisins or currants if liked ; bake in a rather slow oven. It resembles old fashioned election cake. • WHITE PERFECTION CAKE. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 3 cups powdered sugar. 1 cup corn=starch. 1 cup sweet milk. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 12 whites of eggs. Caramel Icing. — Take 2 cups powdered sugar, | cup sweet milk, 1 tablespoon of butter. Boil 10 min- utes, and stir while boiling; then set the dish in cold water, stir until cold and spread on. 388 LOAF CAKES WHORTLEBEERY CAKE. 1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon 5 eggs. and nutmeg. 3 cups flour. 4 cups fresh whortleberries. Be careful not to bruise the berries; flour them and add last. Bake in a moderate oven. GINGER CAKE {Without Eggs). i cup butter. 5 cups sifted flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup milk. 1 tablespoon ginger. 1 cup molasses. A little cloves if liked. Melt the butter and molasses in the sugar, allow the mixture to become hot, and then add spices, milk with soda, and flour. It is a good plan to try a small cake first, and if it falls add more flour. GINGERBREAD. i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups sugar. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ginger. 2 eggs. Bake in a thin sheet, and while hot sprinkle granu- lated sugar on top. Cut in squares. (See our article on "Frosting and Icing " for the method of glazing gin- gerbread). HARD GINGERBREAD. f cup shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. * 1 cup molasses. i teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon ginger. Flour enough to roll out like pie=crust. HARD GINGERBREAD No. 2. i cup butter. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 1 cup sugar. powder. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoon salt. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. Flour to roll out. Mix hard, and roll thin. Bake in a large dripping pan if you have not sheets of tin. LOAF CAKES 389 HARD GINGERBREAD (Without Eggs). i cup butter. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved 1 level teaspoon salt, in 1 cup molasses. h cup v^ater. Flour to roll out. Mix hard and roll thin, and bake as above. HOT WATER GINGERBREAD. 2 tablespoons butter. 1 large cup flour. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 2 tablespoons sour milk. i teaspoon ginger. i cup hot v^ater. ORMSKIRK GINGERBREAD. 1 cup butter (heaped). 5 level cups flour. 1 cup brov^n sugar i nutmeg (grated). (heaped). 1 cup molasses. 1 tablespoon ginger i cup citron (cut fine). (heaped). Work butter and sugar together, add the molasses, flour and ginger, grate in the nutmeg, and stir in the citron. Let the dough stand over night; then roll thin, cut in shapes with a biscuit cutter and bake in a quick oven. It makes a delicious hard gingerbread. SOFT GINGERBREAD. Butter the size of an egg. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 1 cup molasses. 1 cup of v^ater. 1 teaspoon ginger. 1 teaspoon salt. Mix stiff with flour and bake in a square tin. SOUR CREAM GINGERBREAD i cup shortening (part 1 egg. butter and part meat 1 teaspoon soda. dripping). 1 cup sugar. 1 cup molasses. 1 tablespoon ginger (or 1 cup thick sour cream. more to suite taste). Stir all together, dissolve the soda in a little water, use flour enough to make a medium stiff batter, but not too stiff as that will spoil the effect. Bake in a good sized dripping pan so the cake will be H inch thick. 390 LOAF CAKES RICH SOFT GINGERBREAD. 1 cup butter. 2 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 small cup molasses. 1 teaspoon each of ginger and salt. Make a stiff dough with flour, and bake in a square . tin. RAISIN GINGERBREAD. 3 eggs. 2 cups flour. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon of soda. 1 cup sour milk. 1 cup chopped raisins. Spice to taste. SPICE GINGERBREAD. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup molasses. i cup of dried currants. 1 cup sour milk. Ginger, cinnamon, cloves 4 eggs. and nutmeg to taste. Bake in square tins. SOUR MILK GINGERBREAD. 2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. i cup molasses. 1 level teaspoon soda. i cup sour milk. 1 level teaspoon ground 1 egg. ginger. Bake in a flat tin, not as a loaf. SUGAR GINGERBREAD. i cup butter. li teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. 1 level teaspoon salt. i cup sour milk. 1 heaping teaspoon ground 2 eggs. ginger. Mix hard and roll thin. Bake on 'sheets of tin or in the dripping pan. FROSTING AND ICING 391 FROSTING AND ICING. Frosting or icing made from the beaten white of egg and sugar, serves for all kinds of ornamentation, both for cakes and pastry. The eggs can be beaten in a flat dish, with a fork, until stiff, and then the sugar added, and then the flavoring; or the sugar and eggs can be beaten together. Frosting cannot be made satisfactorily un- less the sugar used is the powdered kind, made expressly for this purpose. The proportions are 1 egg, to ^ of a cup, or 10 heaping teaspoons, of sugar. If an acid flavor like lemon is used, a little more sugar will be needed; the size of the egg must also be consid- ered. If an insufficient quantity of sugar is used icing will not hard- en. A little sweet cream, lemon^juice or v^inegar softens icing so that it crumbles less readily. The egg and sugar must be thoroughly beaten, some insisting on 30 minutes beating and others on only 5 minutes. If the eggs do not beat readily a pinch of salt can be added, which will help some. Have the frosting all beaten and ready before the cake comes out of the oven. The frosting should be put on while the cake is warm, but not while it is hot If there are several cakes, and some of them cool while the others are being iced, they can be set in the oven and warmed before being frosted. A heavy frosting put directly on to a cake will inevitably peel on ac- count of the moisture or oiliness of the cake. A little flour dusted on a cake and then the loose particles rubbed off is a good preventative against the cracking of the frosting; or a little gelatine dissolved in boiling water and applied hot is sometimes used. An inverted milk= pan is a good thing on which to set the cake while applying the frosting. Dip the knife often in cold water if the frosting is stiff, and smooth it off nicely. If it is desired to frost the top only, strips of paper, well oiled, can be pinned around the cake, extending above the top, to prevent the icing from running down the sides; and re- moved when it cools. After icing, the cake can be set in a very cool oven to dry and harden for a short time, but do not let the top be- come colored; or set it in the warm sun. If nuts, raisins, or similar articles are put on for ornaments they should be added while the icing is moist. Piping is done when the icing is dry. All iced cakes should be kept in a very dry place. It will please a child when making cake to make a small one for her; cover with white frosting, and when that hardens, write the child's name on top with a small brush dipped in the yolk of egg. Children will be more pleased with some simple cake, not much more than sweetened bread, and ornamented for them, than they would be 392 CAKES by the richest plum cake unornamented, and which they could not eat with safety. Any frosting left over can be made into little wafers, dried in the oven, and used for decorating various dishes. COLORS FOR FROSTINGS, CANDIES, ETC. A Caution. — Nothing but vegetable colors should ever be used for frostings, candies, or any cooking purposes. As some of the coloring matters sold in the stores (and too often used by the uninformed) are deleterious or even poisonous, it is better, when possible, to pre- pare all coloring matters at home. We give the best of those which are adapted for domestic use, and they will meet all the ordinary wants. of our readers. To Whiten Frosting. — A few drops of lemon-juice whitens frosting; so does a small pinch of cream of tartar. For an Amber Coloring Mixture put f oz. turmeric in 2 oz. deodor- ized alcohol; shake till dissolved, strain it, and bottle for use. Biue Frosting is colored with indigo. It does for ornamental icing, but is better not eaten. Brown Frosting may be made by adding caramel to gelatine frost- ing; or by beating the whites of the eggs with nice maple sugar. For Cliocolate Color add a little chocolate or cocoa. Pink Frosting may be made by adding cranberry, strawberry, or raspberry juice from which the seeds have been strained; the jelly can also be strained and used, or a little cochineal will produce the color. Yellow Frosting may be made by adding a trifle of strong saffron tea (if to much is used it is apt to impart a bitter taste). Or grate the rind of an orange into some orange juice, let it soak about 1 hour; strain, and use for coloring. Lemon peel can be used in the same way. (These are preferable to the saffron. See what we say in the introduction to our article on cakes about how to grate orange peel.) A Very Pretty Tint for frosting white cakes is made by beating to- gether 1 cup of white sugar and the yolks, of 3 eggs; flavor with lemon. Carmine Color can be made by mixing 1^ oz. boiling water, ^ oz. ammonia, and ^ oz. No. 40 carmine; bottle, cork closely, and it will keep any length of time. Cochineal Coloring — In 1 cup hot water dissolve 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon powdered alum, and 2 teaspoons powdered coch- ineal; boil 5 minutes, strain through cloth, and bottle for use. Add- ing a little alcohol will make it keep any length of time. FKOSTING AND ICING 393 A Red Color for confectionery, jellies, etc., is sometimes prepared by boiling sliced beetroot in a little water, and then squeezing it through a cloth. Saffron. — Boil thoroughly 1 oz. of saffron in 2 cups of water; strain through cloth and bottle for use. In using this, the shade may be varied by using more or less of it. (The objection to saffron is its tendency to impart a bitter taste if too much is used). Spinach Green — Carefully trim the leaves from some young spinach, wash them, pound them to a pulp, add a little water, and boil till it curdles; then strain. This juice can be used fresh, or it can be worked up into colored sugar, and kept for future use. Coloring Almonds. — Almonds can be given a yellow color by split- ting them in two after blanching, and putting them in the oven till they get a light golden tinge. They can be tinged pink or red with cochineal mixed with a little syrup, rubbing the almonds in it, and drying them in a cool oven. Green coloring is produced in the same way with spinach green. Only vegetable colorings should be used for this purpose. Coloring Sugar. — Dry granulated sugar can be tinted by working in enough of the desired tint to color the sugar; then dry the sugar, powder it, and bottle for use. Flavoring Sugar is done in various ways. It can be pounded, adding the flavoring during the process; then sift through a fine sieve, and bottle for use. For 1 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of either lemon or orange peel will be sufficient. Other flavors can be obtained by using instead, 1 oz. of ginger, or 2 oz. of cinnamon, or ^ oz. of cloves. We have previously explained how to prepare vanilla sugar. Prepared Caramel. — Caramel is crystallized sugar heated to 420° F. when it decomposes, loses its power of crystallizing and ferment- ing, and acquires a dark brown color and a bitter flavor.' It can be prepared as follows: Put 2 cups of granulated sugar in the frying^ pan, add 1 tablespoon of water, and heat it over a clear fire, stirring continually, till it assumes a dark brown color, is brittle, and bitter to the taste, but do not burn it. Then add slowly 2 cups hot water, stir constantly, and boil 10 minutes and let it cool. If it candies when cool, add water and boil again. Bottle when cold, keep corked, and it will never spoil. It is used to flavor or color custards, sauces, soups, broths, gravies, etc and has so many uses that it is well to always keep it on hand. FROSTING AND ICING. PLAIN FROSTING.— Beat 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually work in 1 cup powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons corn=starch. Use any flavoring preferred. 894 CAKES ALMOND FROSTING.— Make like raisin frosting, but use 1 cup blanched sweet almonds instead of the raisins. BOILED FROSTINQ.— The white of 1 egg, 1 cup granulated sugar. Beat the egg to a stiff froth. Put just enough boiling water on the sugar to melt it; then boil to a thick syrup; pour the boiling syrup over the beaten egg, and beat until it is thoroughly mixed. Add flavor. Pour over the cake while hot. If too much boiled, the tendency of the frosting will be to dry before it cools, but 1 or 2 drops of hot water added while using will remedy it. CHOCOLATE FROSTINQ — Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, stir in 1 teacup of pulverized sugar and 6 tablespoons of grated chocolate ; mix well, and spread on while the cake is hot. BOILED CHOCOLATE FROSTINQ — Boil together 1 cup of light brown sugar and ^ cup of water. Remove it from the stove as soon as it strings from the spoon, and stir in the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, together with ^ cake of Baker's chocolate, finely grated. Spread this between the layers and on top while the frosting is warm. EASILY=MADE FROSTINQ— Allow a full half cup of pulver- ized sugar to the white of 1 egg, stirring it in instead of beating the egg; spread it smoothly over the cake and set away to dry and you will find that the icing made in this way will cut without breaking, and be smoother than when beaten in the old way. The icing made from the white of 1 egg is enough for an ordinary sized cake. Flavor, if desired, to suit the taste. QELATINE FROSTINQ — One teaspoon gelatine put to soak in 1^ tablespoons of cold water, and allowed to stand till it becomes a little soft. Now add 2 tablespoons boiling water, and let the mix- ture boil a minute. Soak it in a cup in which it can boil. Measure, and pour upon a large plate, and to every tablespoon of the liquid add 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar rolled and sifted to free it from lumps. Beat well, as the longer it is beaten the lighter and whiter it becomes. Flavor with 1 teaspoon of any extract. Have the cake cold. This quantity is enough for 2 pies or 1 loaf of cake. It can be put on very thick, will not crumble, cuts as well as the cake itself, and is not sticky. ISINQLASS FROSTINQ — Pour 1 coffee-cup of hot water on 1 sheet isinglass, then leave it to dissolve in a warm place. When quite dissolved, and there is no scum, stir in 1 large teaspoon corn= starch and 2 heaping cups of pulverized sugar. Pour it on the cakes FROSTING AND ICING 395 when they are cold, do not smooth it much, and let it harden in a cool place. More easily made than the ordinary frosting. MAPLE FROSTING. — This is made by adding the beaten white of 1 egg to 1 cup of good maple syrup; or use granulated maple sugar instead. MILK FROSTING — Boil -together 2 cups sugar, | cup of milk, and 1 tablespoon of butter for 10 minutes; remove from the stove, and beat until creamy and thick enough to spread. Add ^ teaspoon of any flavoring. RAISIN FROSTING — Put 1 cup white sugar in 2 tablespoons warm water, and boil 5 minutes; pour it over the beaten white of 1 egg, and beat well; then add 1 cup chopped raisins. SOFT FROSTING — Take 1 cup sugar and ^ cup milk, and boil until it will drop in strings from the spoon; then put in a bowl, add 1 teaspoon of flour, and beat a few minutes; let stand until cool, and thick enough to spread on cake without running. BOILED ICING. — Stir 1 cup granulated sugar in 1 cup water, and set on the stove to boil; do not stir after it begins to boil; test it with a cold spoon, and when it " threads " by holding the spoon high and letting the syrup fall back very slowly into the sauce^pan, take it from the fire; add the beated white of 1 egg to the hot syrup, and beat 5 minutes. Add flavoring. Spread on the cake while warm. COFFEE ICING is made by stirring confectioner's sugar into strong coffee set on the stove till it is heated; put it on the cake while warm. ORANGE ICING. — Squeeze the juice of an orange over the grated rind, and let it stand an hour; then strain the juice; add to it a coffee=cup of confectioner's sugar and the yolk of an egg, then beat until stiff enough to spread on the cake. ICING COOKIES, ETC — Before putting in the oven, dredge or sprinkle sugar- gingerbread, cookies, and other small cakes not to be frosted, with fine sugar, and it will give a rich brown glaze, and add much to their flavor. ORNAMENTAL ICING. Many people imagine that it requires a great deal of practice and special skill to do anything of this kind, but those who have never tried it will be surprised to find what pretty effects can be produced with the simplest materials. All that is needed is a paper cone, which is easily made, and a little icing 396 CAKES Paper cones for icing can be made as follows: Cut a sheet of rather stiff paper so as to get a triangular sheet as shown in Fig. 1, having it about 10 inches from 1 to 2, and 5 inches from 1 to 3. Di- vide the hypothenuse, 2, 3, into 3 equal parts at 5 and 4. Then fold over the paper to make creases in it as shown by the dotted lines from 1 to 5 and 5 to P, and also from 6 to 4. Then take the point 3 between the finger and thumb of the* left hand, with the point 3 up- ward and the long side 1, 2, towards you, and taking the point 2 be- tween the thumb and finger of the right hand roll the paper around the fingers of the left hand so as to form a cone, the apex of which will be at 5, and the crease 5, P, overlaps the crease 5, 1. This will leave the long point 2, 4, 6, projecting above the cone, and it can be turned down into the center, bringing the point 2 down to the apex; and this will hold the cone in shape, as seen in Fig, 2, The point is then cut off and the icing passes out of the opening thus made. The amount cut off regulates the size of the hole, and therefore the size of the stream of icing which will come through. Little brass tubes are made for this purpose, which can be bought if desired for a few cents each. The end of the cone is cut off, and the tube dropped into the cone, projecting a little as shown by the dark end in Fig. 3. It is best to make 6 or 8 cones at a time, as the icing softens the paper, and for this reason a rather stiff paper is needed. To Use tile Cone it is filled about f to f full of icing, and the sides of the top are folded in over each other in such a way as to hold in the icing, as shown inFig. 3. In using the cone it is grasped by the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand a little ways up from the apex, while the right hand holds the top and the right thumb rests over the center or top, and forces out the icing by a slight pressure. The icing or frosting which is used is simply the white of egg beaten up with sugar as PAPEK CONE FOR PIPING OR ORNAMENTAL ICING. FKOSTING AND ICING 397 roTYinnnn Fig. 4. Fig. 5. we have explained for frosting. It can be variously colored as desired. The frosting on the cake should be cold when this orna- mental work is applied. This sort of decoration is termed piping. If the icing gets too thin, add more sugar; if too thick, add a little more beaten egg; it can be kept from drying while being used by laying a wet cloth over the bowl containing it. Piping or ornainental frosting admits of endlessly varied designs and effects. It is best to begin with some simple design. It can be drawn on paper, a piece of glass laid over it, and then let the nozzle of the cone trace the design while the icing is steadily pressed out by the thumb at the top. Then the glass can be cleaned off and an- other trial made. In this way very rapid progress can be make, and any one can speedily learn to ornament their own cakes, while those with special aptitude can devise very attractive designs. A simple figure for a border is shown in Fig. 4, while Fig. 5 shows another design, in which the dots might be put on with pink icing to make a contrast. We give other designs suitable for practice. The best taste, however, does not favor an excessive use of colors. Plain white, and the milder colors judiciously used to produce some contrast, will result in the most pleasing effects. Ladies will be surprised at the ease with which the work is done and the advance they make in learning. Cakes can be thus decorated so as to produce very pretty effects which will be pleasing and gratifying to guests. Pat- terns as pretty as any they can embroider can be made much more quickly with a paper cone. A welh decorated cake makes a pretty Fig. 6. addition to well-ornamented 398 SMALL CAKES Crystallization which is sometimes used, is merely putting on, while the icing is moist, crushed rock candy or granulated sugar, white or colored (see '"Colors for Frosting"). Special designs can he applied by letting the frosting dry, then marking out the design with white of egg or gum water; then sprinkle on the white or colored sugar or candy, and shake off all that does not adhere. Jelly can be used for piping in just the same manner as frosting. Warm it so that it will pass easily through the cone; beating it to a uniform consistency with a spoon often helps it, especially in cold weather. Butter or Lard can also be used in the same way. Have it soft enough to pass easily through the cone with gentle pressure, but not too soft. In hot weather it can be stiffened with a little flour, but do not get it too stiff. Ornamenting Other Articles. — Piping is used for decorating many other things besides cakes, but the method is the same for all. For 'pastry or puddings the frosting made of white of egg and sugar is used, while butter, lard or jelly, are used for ham, tongue or roast fowl. SMALL CAKES. For cookies, snaps, jumbles, etc., a quick oven is the best. They are all best kept in a tin box. If they get moist by keeping, dry them out in the oven. For icing cookies, etc., see our article on "Frosting and Icing." Some people sprinkle cookies with sugar, after being rolled out, then cut them out, press a raisin in the center, and bake. For time to hake see " Loaf Cakes." ALMOND DROPS. 1 cup butter. 1 cup almonds, blanched, li cups sugar. Flour to roll and drop. 3 eggs. ANISE DROPS. 2 cups granulated sugar. 3 cups flour. 3 eggs. 1 teaspoon anise seed. Beat the sugar and eggs well for i hour; then add the other ingredients; drop on buttered pans and bake in a moderate oven. The secret lies in beating rapidly and thoroughly. Each teaspoon is dropped separately so as to make separate cakes. SMALL CAKES 399 GINGER DROPS. i cup butter. 2 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup molasses. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. Beat all well together, adding flour till stiff enough to drop from the spoon in drops the size of an egg. Bake on tins in a moderate oven. GINGER DROPS No. 2. 1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. i cup molasses. 2 teaspoons ginger. 2 eggs, well beaten. Flour to roll out. 1 tablespoon vinegar. Flavor with lemon or va- nilla. Eoll out thin, cut with a small cutter and bake in a quick oven. GINGER NUTS {Without Eggs).^ i cup lard. 1 cup molasses, i cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda, i cup sour milk or butter- 1 teaspoon ginger, milk. Mix very soft, form into round balls like nuts, and bake in a rather quick oven. COOKIES. i cup lard. 1 cup sour milk. h cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda, li cups white sugar. Flour sufficient to make dough. Season with caraway seed or nutmeg to suit the taste. Mix thoroughly; roll very thin; bake quickly. BOSTON TEA COOKIES. 1 teacup butter. i teaspoon soda. 3 teacups sugar. Spice to taste. i cup sour milk. Flour enough to roll out 3 eggs. rather stiff. 400 SMALL CAKES CINNAMON COOKIES. 1 cap butter, heaped. 3 eggs. 2 cups brown sugar, heaped. Flour to roll out; cut in small cakes, and sprinkle on cinnamon and sugar just before baking. COOOANUT COOKIES. i cup butter. i teaspoon soda in a little 1 cup sugar. water. 1 egg. i cocoanut (grated). Flour enough to roil. CKEAM COOKIES {Extra). li cups butter. Flour to roll soft. li cups sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup thin sweet cream. Sprinkle with sugar and 1 egg. cut. CREAM COOKIES No. 2. 1 cup thick sour cream. h teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. Flavor with lemon. A pinch of salt. Mix with flour enough to roll; after they are rolled sprinkle with granulated sugar and just pass the roll- ing pin over again so it will not dust off. GINGER COOKIES. f cup butter. * 2 teaspoons soda. 1 cup sugar. 2 heaping teaspoons ginger. 1 cup molasses. A pinch of salt. f cup warm water. Mix rather soft. MOLASSES COOKIES {WUhout Eggs). i cup melted butter. i teaspoon soda, dissolved in •1 cup New Orleans moias- 2 tablespoons cold water ses. (not more). Add cinnamon, cloves and nutmegs or other spices to taste. Use flour to make stiff enough so that it will just drop off from the spoon. They are nice eaten warm. SMALL CAKES 401 MOLASSES COOKIES No. 2. Beat together 1 cup molasses, 1 cup sugar and 1 egg; add I cup of melted lard in which is 1 teaspoon of salt; add 1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in warm water, and 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and ginger; when all are mixed add 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and as much flour as can be mixed in. Roll out thin, and bake in a quick oven. HERMIT COOKIES. i cup butter. Flour to roll soft. li cups sugar. i teaspoon soda, dissolved in 3 eggs. 4 tablespoons water. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. HICKORY NUT COOKIES. i cup butter. Flour enough to roll thin, li cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 4 tablespoons milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 3 eggs, well beaten. chopped rather fine. Bake in a quick oven. ORANGE COOKIES. f cup butter. Flour to roll out. 1 cup sugar. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 3 eggs. powder. Grated rind of 2 or 3 orang- es. ROCKFORD COOKIES. i cup butter. Flour enough to roll out. 1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 2 tablespoons sweet milk. Bake quickly. 1 egg. VANILLA COOKIES. i cup butter. Flour enough to roll soft. 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 1 cup milk. i teaspoon soda. 1 teaspoon vanilla. Sprinkle on sugar as you roll them out. 26 402 SMALL CAKES SOFT COOKIES. i cup butter (scant). 2 eggs, well beaten. 1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup milk. i teacup cocoanut stirred in. Mix soft with flour. Roll about i inch thick. Take white of 1 egg beaten stiff, add 4 tablespoons granulated sugar, and cover top with this frosting; sprinkle with cocoanut. Bake a light brown in a quick oven. Watch closely as they burn easily. Extra nice. JUMBLES. i cup butter. Flour to roll out. 1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. i cup milk. Bake in a quick oven. COCOANUT JUMBLES. 1 cup butter (scant). 1 cup flour (heaped). Ih cups pulverized sugar. 1 lb. grated cocoanut. 5 eggs. Drop on tins with table- spoon. CREAM JUMBLES. i cup butter. 3 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 21 cups flour. i cup sour cream. i teaspoon soda. HICKORY NUT JUMBLES. 1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup hickory nuts. 2 eggs. Drop off a spoon. GINGER BISCUITS. Icup butter. 2 eggs. 2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. i cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. Beat the butter and sugar together; add the eggs and beat again; then add the milk. Have the baking- powder and ginger well mixed in a coffee cup of flour; add this and more flour to make a stiff dough. Gut out little cookies and bake. SMALL CAKES 403 GINGEK SNAPS. 1 cup lard. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved 1 cup sugar. in 2 or 3 tablespoons of 1 cup molasses. water. 1 tablespoon ginger. Salt to taste. Stir in flour until the dough can be made into mar- bles between the palms; flatten and place in tins far enough apart not to touch each other in rising, and bake moderately. These snaps will keep weeks if kept dry; if they become damp they can be dried out and baked again. GINGER SNAPS No. 2. 1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons soda. 2 cups New Orleans 2 tablespoons ginger, molasses. Flour to roll out. 2 eggs. GINGER SNAPS (Without Eggs). i cup lard. i cup water. i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 1 cup sugar. Flour to roll out. 2 cups molasses. SUGAR GINGER SNAPS. 4 tablespoons lard. Flour enough to roll. 3 tablespoons butter. 2 teaspoons ginger. 1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda dissolved i cup water (scant). in warm water. Warm the shortening and sugar and stir in the water and ginger; then the soda and add the flour last. Roll out very thin and bake in a quick oven. FRUIT SNAPS. 1 cup butter. 1 cup each raisins and cur- 1 teaspoon soda. rants. li cups sugar. 1 teaspoon each of ginger, i cup molasses. cloves, cinnamon and all- 3 eggs. spice. Flour to roll out as soft as can be cut. These will keep several months. 404 SMALL CAKES f cup butter. 1 cup sugar. 4 tablespoons hot water. 2 eggs. LEMON SNAPS. Flour to roll soft. i teaspoon soda. 2 teaspoons lemon juice. Bake in a quick oven. FOEMING LADY FINGEBS. LADY FINGERS. Take the yolks of 5 eggs, beaten light, 1 cup white sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, flour to roll thin; flavor to taste. Cut in strips the size of a finger. Do not let them touch in the pan. Bake in a quick oven, watching them, as they readily scorch. Lady Fingers, No. 2. — Another recipe is to take the yolks of 3 eggs, beat light, add 4 cup powdered sugar and beat again; add 2 heaping tablespoons of flour, mix well, and add the well^beaten whites of the 3 eggs. Squeeze them out of a paper cone, or bag (as shown in our illustration), dust on sugar, and bake till light brown in a moderate oven. To Make a Pastry Bag. — Take strong muslin 12 inches square, fold together 2 opposite corners and fell together tightly 2 of the edges, thus making a triangular bag; then cut off the point and in- sert a tin pastry tube. It is best to make 2 or 3 bags for different sized tubes. To use the bag, put in the mixture, close the top, twist it, and hold it tightly with the right hand, while the left guides the point and presses out the mixture to form lady fingers, eclaires or anything else desired. (See the illustration.) MACAROONS. Almond Macaroons. — Take 1 lb. almonds, blanch them, and pound to a paste with a little rose water or SMALL CAKES 405 oil of lemon; add 1 lb. of white sugar, and the well= beaten whites of 4 eggs. Bake in drops, or small cakes, on buttered tins in a slow oven to a light brown. Some glaze them with beaten yolk of egg, and others dust on sugar before baking them. Keep in tightly closed tin boxes or glass jars. Filbert Macaroons may be made in the same way, by using equal parts of filberts and almonds. For Cocoanut Macaroons, use 1 cup powdered sugar and 1 cup grated cocoanut ; work in enough of the cocoanut milk to form a plain paste; mold and bake as above directed. Hickory Nut Macaroons. — Beat the whites of 3 eggs, 1 cup granulated sugar, and 1 cup powdered sugar, till very light; stir in 1 cup chopped hickory nuts, and bake like almond macaroons. ECLAIRS. 1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 2 cups water. 10 eggs beaten separately. A pinch of salt. Put the water and butter (cut small) on the stove till melted; bring to a boil, beat in the flour, stir 2 or 3 minutes; let cool and then beat in the beaten yolks and then the beaten whites. Spread on buttered baking eclaik. tins, in strips about 4 inches long and H inches wide (squeeze through the nozzle of a pastry bag if you have one) leaving them 2 inches apart to allow for swelling. Bake i to ^ hour. When cool, cut open and fill with whipped cream, flavored to taste, or with our mock whipped cream, or with any fruit jelly desired. Cover with chocolate, vanilla or almond frosting. CREAM PUFFS. Use same mixture as for ^' eclairs," but drop it onto the buttered baking tins by tablespoonfuls, making 406 SMALL CAKES round balls instead of fingers. When done and cool, cut open and fill same as the '' eclairs." KISSES. Take the well=beaten whites of 3 eggs, add 5 table- spoons of powdered sugar, and flavor with lemon juice; drop on buttered paper with a spoon, sift sugar over them and bake 30 minutes in a slow oven. For Chocolate Kisses pound together 2 oz. chocolate and 2 cups white sugar; sift it, mix it with the well=beaten white of egg, and finish as above. MAPLE SUGAR CAKES. Rub a piece of butter the size of an egg into 2 cups of flour, then add an even teaspoon of salt, well pulver- ized; again add a heaping teaspoon of home=made bak- ing powder; stir all together thoroughly. Have on hand a cup of maple sugar coarsely sliced from the cake. (Place the cake of sugar on a tin and put in the hot oven until it is soft enough to cut.) Have the oven hot and a baking=tin well buttered; add a teacup of sweet milk to the flour and stir quickly. If the dough is not thick enough add a trifle more of flour; put in the sugar and stir again. Roll out and cut with the bis- cuit cutter; place on the tin and put in the oven. The oven should be hot enough to bake them brown in 10 minutes. PATTY CAKES. i cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 cup milk or water. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 2 eggs. Make a soft sponge and bake quickly in patty pans. SMALL CAKES 407 PUFFS. 2 rounded tablespoons 2 eggs (well beaten). butter. 1 tablespoon flour. 4 heaping tablespoons Grated rind of 1 lemon.. sugar. 1 cup milk. Mix the milk and beaten eggs; slowly add the flour, butter, sugar and flavor, and mix well. Bake 20 min- utes in a quick oven in buttered saucers. SHKEWSBEKKY CAKES; 1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour. 1 scant cup granulated i oz. caraway seeds, sugar. 1 egg, beaten well. Roll very thin and cut into small cakes; prick them and bake in tins or shallow pans in a moderate oven. VEENON CAKES. 1 heaping cup butter. 4 eggs. 1 heaping cup sugar. 2 teaspoons soda. 2 cups molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 1 cup milk. 1 nutmeg, grated. Stir together well; bake, not too close together on sheet iron. As they burn easily watch carefully. CKEAM CAKES. 1 tablespoon butter. 3 yolks of eggs. 1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. i cup milk. ■ Flour to make stiff batter. Bake in patty pans in a quick oven. Cut a cone shaped hole in the center of each and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla; or use our " Mock Whipped Cream," given among our fillings for layer cakes. Sprinkle a little dessicated cocoanut on top. This makes about 1 doz. cakes. They are delicious. SAVOY BISCUITS. Break 5 eggs into a pan and add a coffee=cup of granulated sugar; beat together until it is thick, then beat in gradually a coffee=cup of dry sifted flour. m SMALL CAKES Place the dough in teaspoonfuls on buttered paper in a dripping=pan, and bake a light brown. When cold, brush the under sides of the biscuits with the beaten white of an egg^ and press 2 together. TRIFLES. 2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups sugar (heaped). 1 cup sweet milk. 4 cups flour (heaped). Cream the butter and sugar, sift in the flour, add the milk, turn the dough onto a bread=board and work well; roll out in as thin sheets as possible, cut in small round cakes, and bake in a very moderate oven. TURTLE CAKES. These always please the children. Have, the tur- tles all made the day before, and ready on a plate. Take large raisins and flatten them; insert at one end a whole clove, with the head sticking out for the head of the turtle; at the other end insert the stem of a clove with the smaller end out for the turtle's tail; on each side insert two cloves with the heads picked out leaving the spurs on for the claws of the turtle. Make nice round cookies, spread a thick frosting on one side, and place a turtle on the frosting to dry. SAND TARTS. Put together 2 cups sugar (heaped), 1 cup butter, 4 cups flour (level); add 2 beaten eggs, mix smooth, roll out, and cut into cakes; wash over with egg^ beaten whole, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, and bake. DESSERTS. WNDEE. this head may be found recipes for making many deli- cate dishes with corn-starch, eggs, gelatine, etc., which can be prepared in the morning, or the day before they are to be used, and, in warm weather, served cold as dessert. Fresh new milk should be used whenever a recipe calls for milk, but condensed milk can be used if fresh milk is not to be obtained. If cream is used it should be sweet, and as fresh as possible — the cream from " separators " and creamers is the safest to use. Thin cream with milk mixed in it will not whip to a froth. The colder it is the better it whips — in warm weather it is apt to turn to butter. If cream is slightly turned a very little cooking soda dissolved in a little cold water may be mixed with it and will restore it without injuring the flavor. The soda (alkali) counteracts the lactic acid developed in souring. Milk should be scalded in a double boiler made for the purpose; or use a tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water which answers very well, and is not likely to be melted to pieces by a careless servant. So many warnings against using bad eggs have already been given that we need not repeat them here. Beat eggs in stone or earthenware and not in tin, as explained for cakes. It is an improve- ment to strain yolks through a small wire strainer after beating them. The yolks alone, or the whole egg, can be used for floats and boiled custards. To add the eggs so that they will not curdle there are sev eral ways. One way is to heat the milk till a slight foam appears on top, then put in the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs can be added without curdling. Another way is to mix in a bowl, the sugar and beaten yolks, then gradually add a little of the boiling milk which will heat the eggs and sugar; then slowly stir them into the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens a little but do not leave long enough to curdle; then at once set the pail containing it in cold water or else turn it into a cold dish, as, if left in the hot pail, it will curdle. Molds when used for blanc mange, charlotte russe and all creams, should be first wet with cold water. See what we say about the action of neat on flavoring extracts in our introduction to "Cake." The flavoring is best added after the dish is taken from the stove. 409 410 DESSERTS Rennet. — Get the butcher to prepare the stomach of a calf for you, salt it well, and spread out to dry; when about half dry, shake the loose salt off and cut it into strips; then take a quart bottle, put in the strips, and fill with currant, Muscatine, or any other sweet wine; let stand 12 or 15 days, and it can be used. It is superior to the liquid rennet sold in the stores, and will keep 12 months or more. BLANC MANGE. Blanc Mange means literally " white food" or jelly, but in many recipes fruit or other coloring is now added to such desserts to im- prove the appearance and give variety. Blanc mange is made of many materials, like corn^starch, arrowroot, sago, tapioca, gelatine, etc. It may be garnished with bright colored jelly if desired, and eaten with whipped cream, cream and sugar, boiled custard, pre- serves, fruit juices, jellies or sauces. Arrowroot and several other blanc manges are given in our " In- valid Cookery" (which see). ALMOND BLANC MANGE.— Take 4 cups milk, 4 tablespoons of corn-starch and 4 tablespoons of sugar; boil all together until thick, and add 30 almonds, blanched and split. FARINA BLANC MANGE — Mix 5 tablespoons of farina in a little cold water, add a pinch of salt, and stir it into 1 quart of boil- ing milk; boil 10 to 15 minutes, and turn into a wet mold. Corn=Starch Blanc Mange is made the same way, but do not cook quite as long. It can also be made by using 1 tablespoon less of cornsstarch, and adding 2 well=beaten eggs, which makes it richer. FRUIT BLANC MANGE — Stew the fresh fruit, strain off the juice and sweeten to taste. Put it in a double kettle and let it boil. While it is boiling, stir in corn=starch wet with a little cold water, in the proportion of 2 tablespoons of corn= starch to 1 pint of juice; stir it until it is cooked; then pour in molds wet in cold water, and set them away to cool. They may be cooled quickly by setting the cups in a pan of cold water and changing the water as it becomes warm. Eat with cream and sugar, or a rather thin boiled custard. Cherries or red raspberries are nicest, but other fruit may be used. Currant juice combined with raspberries is fine; strawberries are good, and a circle of fresh strawberries around the molds makes a good garnish. ' IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE.— Wash 1 cup moss in soda water to remove the saline taste, and rinse in several waters; steep it in 1 quart of milk till that is thickened; strain through a fine sieve, DESSERTS 411 and sweeten and flavor to taste. Wet the mold in cold water and pour in the blanc mange. Serve with sugar and cream, eating it the day it is made. It is an addition to give a little preserved ginger with each plate. This is good for invalids without the ginger. RICE BLANC MANGE — Use ^ pound ground rice, 1 quart milk, 3 ounces loaf sugar, 1 ounce fresh butter. Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about ^ pint of the milk; put the remainder into a sauce^pan with sugar, butter, and a small pinch of salt; bring to the boiling point; then stir in the rice and let it boil 10 minutes. After taking from the fire add any flavoring desired. Grease the mold with salad oil, and when perfectly set, it should turn out easily. Garnish with jam, or pour around a compote of any kind of fruit just before sending to the table. It is best made the day before it is wanted. A nice flavoring is made by steeping 3 laurel leaves in the milk and taking them out before the rice is added. VARIEGATED BLANC MANGE.— Make 2 blanc manges— 1 white, of corn=starch, and 1 colored, of fruit; pour a little of each of these alternately into a mold, thus forming different colored layers, letting each layer set before pouring on the next. CUSTARDS. Duck's eggs, when obtainable, add much to the richness and flavor of custards. Less are required than of the ordinary eggs. Four duck's eggs to a pint of milk makes a delicious custard. Custards may be made with cream or milk, and with eggs vary- ing in number. One tablespoon of sugar for each egg is the uniform rule for custards. A very plain custard can be made with 1 egg to a pint of milk and a good one with 3 eggs, but if it is wanted very rich 4 or even 5 eggs can be used. The richer the custard the more likely it is to curdle. If it does curdle, take an egg=beater and thoroughly beat a bowlful at once and it can be saved, although many cooks do not know this. Floating Island can be saved the same way. For boiled custards the yolks give a smoother consistency than the whites. Boiled custards require constant attention from beginning to end; do not let them boil an instant too long, but take them from the stove as soon as they are done and they will thicken in cooling; do not leave them in the hot dish, or they will curdle, but pour them into cold molds, or set the vessel containing them in cold water. Custard ought to be thin enough to pour if it is to serve as a sauce, and should then be taken off an instant sooner. 412 DESSERTS If the yolks only are used in the custard the whites may be utilized in various ways. They can be beaten up, sweetened and flavored and put on top, as in "Floating Island"; or after beating, they may be poached by dipping a spoonful at a time into boiling water or milk, and then si)read on top of the custard, either dotted with bits of jelly or not, as preferred. The beaten whites can also be colored by beating in any bright colored jelly, using 1 tablespoon of jelly to the white of each egg. The Time to Bake custards is 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Bake them slowly with moderate heat; if there is too much heat they will partly turn to whey. They are done when firm in the center; or test them by thrusting in a knife or spoon — they are done when it comes out clean. BAKED CUSTARD.— Scald 4 cups milk; beat the yolks of 4 eggs, add 4 tables^ooons of sugar and -J teaspoon of salt; pour on the scalded milk and bake in cups set in a drippings pan with boiling water in the bottom; grate nutmeg on top. Time to bake, about 20 minutes. Or it can be steamed in a bowl or in cups. Six eggs are often used, but it is nice with 4. Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an evergreen tree now cultivated in the West India Islands, etc. It contains about &% of a pungent essential oil. It is aromatic, stimu- lant, and contains narcotic properties. Nutmeg is injur- ious to many people, causing what is called heart=burn. nutmeg. BOILED CUSTARD — Bring 2 cups milk to the boil; beat the yolks of 3 eggs, add 3 tablesjDoons of sugar, -I saltspoon salt, and beat well; add the boiling milk slowly, set it in a double boiler and cook till thick; when partly cool stir in ^ teaspoon of vanilla or any other flavor- ing preferred. One half teaspoon of corn=starch dissolved in a little cold water and boiled with the milk will j)revent the custard from curdling which it is sometimes apt to do. A meringue can be made of the whites and spread over the top w^hen cool, if desired. For a chocolate custard add |- square of chocolate, melted. For cocoanut add ^ cup grated cocoanut. Lemon or orange jelly can be cut in cubes and added if desired for variety, or canned or candied fruits, can be added. CORN=STARCH CUSTARD.— Beat together the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon corn^starch; add 2 cups boiling milk, let boil 10 minutes, add 1 teaspoon butter, and when cooled a little, ^ tea- spoon of any flavoring extract liked best. DESSERTS 413 ALMOND CUSTARDS.— Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of sugar, and 1 saltspoon of salt. When cold, add |- cup of finely chopped almonds and 1 tea- spoon of vanilla. Serve in glasses with whipped cream sprinkled with finely-shredded almonds. APPLE CUSTARD. — Take 1 pint stewed apples, sweetened and cooled; 1 pint sweet milk, 4 eggs, well beaten. Mix the apple, milk and eggs, put in the baking=dish, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake ^ hour, ARROWROOT CUSTARD.— Two cups of boiling milk, 3 heaping teaspoons arrowroot wet with a little cold milk, 2 tablespoons of .sugar beaten with 1 egg. Mix the paste with the boiling milk, stirring briskly ; take from the fire, stir in the egg and sugar, and boil 2 min- utes; flavor to taste and add a pinch of salt. This is very light and delicate, and suitable for invalids. BANANA CUSTARD. — Make a plain boiled custard, and when cool, pour it over bananas cut in thin slices. FRUIT CUSTARDS. — Make the same as banana custard, using any kind of fruit desired, either fresh or canned. BENGAL CUSTARD — Take 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoons of rice flour, 3 well=beaten eggs, 3 tablespoons of sugar, or more if liked. Scald the milk in a double boiler, beat the eggs, rice flour, and sugar together, and flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. Bake or steam in cus- tard-cups. If baked, place the cups in a dripping=pan of hot water and the cups will not be discolored. SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD.— Take 1 quart of milk, ^ cup of sugar, 6 eggs, ^ teaspoon of 'salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserv- ing a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk to them. Stir the sugar in a small frying=pan until it becomes liquid and just be- gins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk; then add the beaten eggs and cold milk and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.— Use i lb. Baker's prepared cocoa to 1 quart of milk. Mix the milk and scraped chocolate to a thick paste ; boil 15 minutes; while warm stir in 3 tablespoons sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat 8 eggs well, and stir into this mixture. Bake in cups. It may be served with a macaroon on top of each. COCOANUT CUSTARD.— One quart milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 6 ta- blespoons of sugar, 2 tablespoons corn= starch and 1 teaspoon vanilla 414 DESSEKTS flavoring. Put milk, sugar and eggs on the stove in a kettle of hot water, or use a double boiler; when the milk begins to simmer add the cornsstarch dissolved in a little cold milk; boil 3 minutes. When eool add the flavoring and cover the top with grated cocoanut. CUSTARD FLOAT — Put 4 large tablespoons of chocolate m 1 quart of milk; dissolve it well, and heat it in a double boiler; add the wellsbeaten yolks of 4 eggs, ^ cup of sugar, 1 tablespoon of corn= starch, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; boil about as long as corn-starch custard, and then put on ice to cool. When ready to serve pour into a glass dish, and put the welhbeaten whites of the 4 eggs on top. It will be relished by those who like chocolate. LEMON CUSTARD — Take 1 pint of fresh milk, 1 lemon, | cup sugar, yolks of 4 eggs. Put the milk to scald in the double boiler; add the grated rind and strained juice of the lemon to the sugar; beat the yolks of eggs stifl', then mix with the sugar and lemon, and stir it into the milk when scalding hot; take it from the fire immedi- ately as it must not boil. When it has cooled a little fill it into the custard=cups. The white of 1 egg and 2 tablespoons of sugar may be made into frosting and a portion placed on each custard. RENNET CUSTARD.— Heat 1 quart of milk until it is luke- warm; add 2 tablespoons of rennet (see our recipe for preparing it, although it can be bought at the stores), 2 tablespoons of lemon juice, and 4 tablespoons of sugar; stir the ingredients gently to- gether; as soon as they are mixed pour the custard immediately into the bowl in which it is to be served. Set it on the ice as soon as it is cool, and serve it for dessert, with preserves or cream and sugar. It will be firm in about 2 hours, and should be served soon after. OST KAKA {of Sweden). — This is rennet custard served with cinnamon and cream. CUSTARD SOUFFLE — Use 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons butter, \ cup sugar, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Scald the milk in a double boiler, and when hot add the yolks of the eggs well beaten with the sugar and flour; take from the fire as soon as it begins to thicken, and stir in the butter; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and cut it into the custard lightly, and bake ^ hour in a slow oven. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. STEAMED CUSTARD.— Take 5 eggs (throw out the yolks of 2, and beat), 3 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, a chip or two of lemon or orange, and a little vanilla. Scald 1 quart of milk, take off DESSERTS 415 the scum, and pour it on the beaten eggs. Set it to steaming in a close covered vessel, and steam 5 or 6 minutes; then set on ice. TAPIOCA CUSTARD.— Take 1 quart of fresh milk, 2 eggs, i cup of pearl tapioca, ^ cup of white sugar. Soak the tapioca over night, and the next morning drain off all the water while the milk is scalding in a double boiler; when the milk is hot, add the tapioca and let it simmer 10 minutes; beat the sugar and eggs together, and add to the milk and tapioca; flavor with cinnamon, vanilla or nut- meg. TOMATO CUSTARD.— Peel and stew until thoroughly cooked 1 quart of ripe tomatoes; strain through a sieve to remove the seeds; beat 3 fresh eggs very light and add them to the strained tomatoes with a teacup of white sugar, a pinch of salt, butter the size of an egg, and a little nutmeg. Bake in a quick oven 15 or 20 minutes. This is nice served hot or cold. VARIOUS CUSTARDS — Those without experience should ad- here closely to the recipes given, but cooks with a little experience can produce a variety of custards by varying the flavors used, leaving the body of the custard the same. Oranges cut fine (after being peeled and seeded) can be used, simply adding them to a good custard; so can canned] or candied fruits, chopped almonds, grated cocoanut, chocolate, caramels, macaroons, etc., thus making various custards. An ingenious cook can devise many changes, and make attractive dishes, and we advise experienced cooks to try it. CEEAMS, PUFFS, ETC. CHOCOLATE CREAM.— Heat 4 cups milk and a pinch of salt; when hot add 3 tablespoons of flour; after it thickens add yolks of 3 eggs, beaten to a cream with 3 tablespoons of sugar; cook a few min- utes, and when done add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites stiff, add 3 tablespoons of sugar, then 3 tablespoons of grated chocolate. Spread it on the cream and brown it in the oven. COFFEE CREAM — Mix | cup sugar, ^ cup strong coffee and 1 pint rich cream; whip till it is all froth; put in stem glasses, freeze, and serve in the same glasses. HAMBURG CREAM — Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into 1^ cups sugar; beat the yolks of 5 eggs, put into a pan, add the sugar, and set in hot water, stirring all the time; when the eggs begin to cook, add the 5 whites, which should be beaten and ready; then remove and let cool. 416 DESSEETS MOCK CREAM — Take 1 quart of new milk, 1 fresh egg, 1 tea- spoon of corn=starch, 1 teaspoon of white sugar. Scald the milk in a double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water. Beat the starch, sugar and egg thoroughly, and stir into the milk when it is scalding hot. Let it get thoroughly cold before serving. PINK CREAM. — Use 3 gills raspberry syrup mixed with ^ pound of sugar and 1 pint of thick, sweet cream. Whisk until very light, and serve in whip glasses. RICE CREAM. — Boil 1 cup rice till tender, in new milk; add white sugar to whiten, pile on a dish, and spread slices of currant jelly or preserved fruit on top of it. Then take the welhbeaten whites of 5 eggs, sweetened with powdered sugar, and add 1 table- spoon of rich cream and flavor with vanilla; spread this on top like snow. RICE CREAM No. 2 — Cook 4 tablespoons of dry rice in 4 cups milk, then add yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of sugar, and a pinch of salt; cook till done and add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring de- sired. Beat the whites of the eggs, add 2 tablespoons of sugar, spread it on the cream, and brown in the oven. TAPIOCA CREAM.^Soak 1 cup tapioca in 2 cups water over night. In the morning add 4 cups rich milk, put it in the double boiler and cook ^ hour; then add ^ cup sugar (scant), a little lemon flavor, and the yolks of 3 eggs; stir continually, letting it cook gently for 3 minutes, and then stir in the 3 whites of egg, beaten stiff. Pour it into a glass dish and serve cold. For a change instead of adding the 3 whites of egg the tapioca can be allowed to get cold, then spread on a layer of jelly and cover with a meringue, Or, leave off the jelly, cover with a soft frost- ing, and brown slightly in the oven. SAGO FLOAT — Soak 4 tablespoons of sago in cold water | hour; then cook till clear. Heat to boiling 4 cups milk, add the sago, 2 beaten eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 heaping tablespoon of flour rubbed smoo{h in a little milk, and salt and flavoring to taste. Cook in a double boiler; when thick and creamy pour it into a pretty dish and dot it over with a meringue in spoonfuls; brown delicately and serve cold. AIR BALLS. — Make as for cream of tartar biscuit, and cut in small squares. Fry them in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, lay them on pajjer to drain off the grease, and dip them in hot simmered molasses, which should be ready at hand. Serve hot. DESSEKTS 417 CRACKER DESSERT — Put a square cracker in a saucer, pour just enough boiling water on it to soften it; put a teaspoon of jelly in the center, sprinkle sugar over, and pour sweet cream over all. Very nice also for invalids. CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stifP froth; whip 1 pint of cream and add it; add sugar and flavor to taste; pour it over sliced cake. Set in a cool place after making. JELLY AND RICE DESSERT.— Soak 1 teacup rice; when done to a jelly add 1 teaspoon of currant jelly and^ teacup of fruit juice; boil a few minutes; put in molds, and eat with cream and sugar. FLOATING ISLAND — Beat well the yolks of 4 eggs, add 5 tablespoons of sugar, and stir it into 1 quart of sweet milk; when cool, flavor and pour into a dish. Heap upon it the 5 well=beaten whites, to which a little sugar is added, and ^ cup jelly. Dot with bits of jelly. LAYER PUDDING (Brown Layer).— Take 2 cups milk, | cup sugar, 2 tablespoons scraped chocolate, and 2 rounded tablespoons of corn=starch; moisten the starch in a small portion of the milk, and place the remainder in a double boiler with the chocolate until it is scalding hot; then add the corn=starch and sugar and stir it con- stantly until it thickens; then put it in a buttered pudding dish or- mold to cool. Yellow Layer — Take 2 cups milk, | cup sugar, yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons of corn^starch and ^ teaspoon of extract of vanilla; scald the milk as above, saving a portion to moisten the corn=starch; when the milk is hot add the egg yolk, corn-starch and sugar, and stir until thick; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and put this in the mold to cool, over the brown layer of pudding. Pink Layer. — Take 2 cups milk, I cup sugar, 2 tablespoons corn- starch dissolved in berry juice, or the berries may be crushed fine and added without straining; make like the other layers, and put this layer in the mold over the yellow layer. Then beat the 2 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, with -| cup pulverized sugar, and place it on top. This pudding can be made of water instead of milk, if milk is scarce, and if eggs are scarce the yellow part may be colored with a little saffron instead of the yolk of egg, and the frosting omitted. Serve with sweet cream, or any liquid pudding sauce preferred. KISS PUDDING — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs with | cup sugar until light; add 1| tablespoons corn=starch wet with a little cold milk; stir in 2 cups boiling milk till thick; then let cool. Beat the whites of the 3 eggs with | cup sugar, spread it over the top, and brown in the oven. 27 418 DESSERTS MOCK LEMON JELLY — To 4 cups boiling water add 1 small teacup of sugar, and 5 tablespoons of vinegar, or less if very strong; boil 2 or 3 minutes and stir in 2 level tablespoons of corn-starch dis- solved in cold water; boil 2 minutes and add 2 teaspoons lemon extract; let it cool before serving. DESSERT PUFFS.— Take the well-beaten whites of 4 eggs, 2 cups cream, 2 cups milk, 1 cup sifted flour (heaped), 1 cup powdered sugar (scant), a little salt, and a little grated rind of lemon, beat them all together until very light; bake in gem pans, and then sift pulverized sugar over them. Eat with sauce flavored with lemon. RICE DESSERT — Spread rice that has been cooked quite thick, on a plate; spread over it a layer of strawberry jam, then a layer of rice on top. Sprinkle powdered sugar on top and serve with cream. RICE WITH CUSTARD — Boil 2 cups rice in 4 cups of water, with a little salt; when done turn into small cups. When cold turn onto a dish. Make a boiled custard with yolks of 2 eggs, 2 cups milk and 1 teaspoon of corn-starch; flavor with lemon. When cold pour it over the rice balls, RICE MOLDS — Cook rice in the morning and ty.rn it into but- tered teacups; when cold turn them on to a platter, make a little cavity in the top of each one and fill the opening with any kind of jelly liked best. Serve sweetened and flavored cream with them. Or put the rice in a large mold first; when cold turn out on a plate, make a cavity in the top, fill it with jelly and put fru.it around the base, as shown in our illustration. MOLDED SNOW — Scald 8 cups of milk and mix | cup of corn= starch, with 1 cup of milk, using 1 quart of milk in all. Stir the diluted corn=starch into the hot milk, adding also 2 tablespoons of sugar. Cook 15 minutes; then add the whites of 3 eggs beaten stiff and pour into a mold. Chill and serve. SCANDINAVIAN ROQROD — Take 1| quarts of water and add 1^ quarts of any acid fruit juice, like currant, and 2 heaping cups sugar, and bring to a boil. A little stick cinnamon tied in a bag should be dropped in and later taken out, as it can be used in that KICE MOLD. DESSERTS 419 way often. While boiling, stir in slowly, to keep it from lumping, 1 lb, soaked sago, or 1| lbs. arrowroot; then boil 15 minutes, and turn into molds or cups to cool. Serve with sugar and cream when cold, (A favorite dish in Sweden and Norway). SPONGE BISCUIT FOR DESSERT.— Take 2 cups flour, 1| cups sugar, sifted, 6 eggs, beaten separate, lemon flavor. Beat the whites, add the beaten yolks, then the lemon flavor, then the sugar; mix well and add flour last. Bake in patty=pans, with sugar sprinkled over the top to glaze. Serve with a rich liquid sauce. FRUIT DESSERTS, See also what is said at the close of this section under the head of " Additional Fruit Desserts." APPLE FLOAT. — Bake 3 apples (with no water around them); when done, scrape the pulp all out, thoroughly mix in 1 cup sugar and let it cool. Then add the welhbeaten white of 1 egg, and beat all together thoroughly. Form it into shape and pour around it a custard made of 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspoon corn-starch, yolks of 3 eggs, sugar to sweeten, and lemon or vanilla flavor. APPLE KUCHEN. — Make a pie-crust a trifle richer than biscuit, roll out and place it in the bottom of the pan in which meat is roasted. Peel cooking apples, slice them into eighths, and place them across the pan, close together in even rows, leaving a small space between the rows, and pressing the inner edge of the apple slightly into the crust; sprinkle coffee "A" sugar over the apple, and a little nutmeg; bake in the oven until the apples are cooked. This will make a simple and attractive dessert. APPLE SNOW — Make a boiled custard with the yolks of 3 eggs, 2 cups milk, 4 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, and ^ tea- spoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then beat in 1 cup pulverized sugar and, little by little, 2 cups unsweet- ened apple sauce. Serve, using the custard as a sauce. Apple Snow No. 2. — Sift steamed apples to make 2 cups of pulp. Beat the whites of 3 eggs stiff and stir together. To every table- spoon of apple use 1 teaspoon of sugar until the apple is all beaten in. Beat the whole stiff and keep cold. Serve with cream or custard. RED CURRANT SNOW— Use 2 cups boiling water, 2 table- spoons of corn-starch and 1 cup sugar; when cooked thick remove from fire and add the juice of 2 cups of red currants crushed and 420 DESSEKTS pressed through the colander. Beat the whites of 2 eggs, add a little sugar and pour over all. RASPBERRY SNOW.— Proceed as directed for red currant snow. STRAWBERRY SNOW.— Proceed as directed for red currant snow. Other Fruits can be used the same way, producing many varieties. BANANA DESSERT Allow for 12 bananas 1^ cups fruit juice (any kind preferred) and 1 cup sugar. Peel the bananas and stew them gently in this syrup 20 minutes; then take out and lay them in a glass dish. Boil the syrup until it thickens and pour it over the bananas. Serve cold. BANANA DESSERT, No. 2.— Peel and slice 6 bananas; peel, slice and seed 6 oranges; arrange in alternate layers, sprinkling on powdered sugar, and squeeze the juice of a lemon over all and serve cold. BERRY DESSERTS.— In 2 cups water sim- mer 4 cups of any berries desired, sweetening to taste; boil 2 tablespoons of corn=starch in 2 cups water for 15 minutes; then stir in the fruit, turn it into molds and set it in a cold place to harden. Serve cold, with cream, whipped cream or mock whipped cream. Or (2) arrowroot can be used instead of the corn=starch if preferred; also fresh fruit can be used instead of the stewed. AEEOWEOOT. FRUIT CUPS. — Stir 2 teaspoons baking powder into 2 cups sifted flour; add water to make a soft dough. Butter cofPee=cups, drop in a little of the dough, then 2 or 3 teaspoons of chopped peaches, then enough more dough to fill the cups about half full. Put the cups in a pan of hot water, set in the oven, cover closely and steam 30 minutes. Eat with sugar and cream or whipped cream. Stoned cherries, currants, dates, figs, strawberries, raspberries, or any other fruit can be used instead of the peaches, and a variety of desserts produced in this way. COCOANUT CORN=STARCH.— Bring 4 cups milk to the boil; moisten 2 tablespoons of corn^starch with a little of the hot milk, add the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs, ^ cup of grated cocoanut and 1 salt- spoon of salt; stir all into the boiling milk until it thickens. Beat the 4 whites of eggs with f cup of powdered sugar, spread it on top DESSERTS 421 of the corn=^starcli when it is partly cooled, and sprinkle cocoanut on top. SNOWED FRUIT. — Spread a layer of sliced apples, pears, peaches, bananas, pineapple or other fruit; then put on a layer of dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut and sugar, then another layer of fruit, and so on alternately. Cover the top lightly with cocoanut and sugar. Eat with or without cream. Berries of any kind may also be used instead of the larger fruit. TAPIOCA NUT CREAM. — Soak ^ pound of pearl tapioca over night in 1^ cups of cold water. Cover with 3 cups of cold water and cook in a double boiler until transparent, then add ^ cup of sugar, and the juice and grated rind of a lemon; turn into small molds. Chill and turn into a glass dish garnished with apricots and whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with chopped walnuts and vanilla. THICKENED CREAM — Stir together | cup of rich milk, ^ cup white sugar, and 1 wine=glass of rose-water; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, and stir all into 1 quart of rich cream; set it over hot coals, let it just come to a boil, stirring all the time; then take ofp, pour into a glass bowl, and set away to cool. Eat with any berries, like strawberries, or raspberries, or with sweetmeats. FRENCH JELLIES. — Let a layer of melted jelly cool in the bot- tom of a mold; then add a layer of any kind of fresh fruit, or soft dried fruit; then add another layer of jelly, and so on until the mold is filled. Many delicious desserts can be thus produced. BIRD'S NEST — Take 6 apples, peel, sweeten and bake, and then cover with a custard made of 2 tablespoons sugar, 3 yolks of eggs, 3 cups milk, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; bake till firm. FRUIT DESSERT — Cover the bottom of a berry dish with a layer of sliced oranges; sprinkle on pulverized sugar, then put on a layer of strawberries, and so on alternately until the dish is full. Over the whole pour orange juice in the proportion of 3 oranges to a quart of berries. Let stand about an hour, and just before serving sprinkle with pounded ice. Fruit Dessert No. 2. — Cut bananas, oranges and pineapple in small pieces; arrange them in alternate layers in a glass dish, with pow- dered sugar and grated cocoanut between each layer. Squeeze the juice of a lemon on top and set on ice for 4 or 5 hours. The last thing before serving sprinkle grated cocoanut freely on top. It makes a nice dessert with white cake. Various other fruits may also be combined for fruit desserts, 422 DESSERTS such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, peaches, etc., and thus a variety of pleasing combinations and flavors can be produced. Ex- ercise your ingenuity in devising new combinations. FRUIT DESSERT No. 3 — Put 4 cups of sliced apples or peaches or pears (or 2 cups of any nice canned fruit) in a pudding dish and set it on the stove to heat, while a batter is whisked to pour over it. Make the batter with 2 beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 2f cups sifted flour, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder and a pinch of salt. When the fruit is bubbling hot, pour the batter over it, and bake in the oven until it is thoroughly done. Serve warm with cream and sugar. Many varieties can be thus produced. FRUIT WHIP. — Take either raspberries, strawberries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, pears or other fruit, sweeten to taste, mash, and add 4 well-beaten eggs for every quart of fruit, stir together well and set on ice. Serve either with or without cream, or with whipped cream or mock whipped crearn. LEMON CREAM — Take the pulp of 1 lemon cut fine with a knife (not chopped), add the grated rind, 1 cup sugar, and | cup water and bring to a boil; add 2 well beaten eggs and 1 tablespoon flour rubbed smooth in water; when it thickens take from the fire. Let it cool before serving. ORANGE DRESSING — Take the juice of 3 oranges and 1 lem- on; add ^ cup sugar and 1 egg; beat all together, briiig to the boil, simmer 5 minutes and strain. Add a little grated peel of orange and lemon if desired. It makes an excellent dressing for fruits like sliced oranges, bananas, etc. Keep on ice till ready to serve. ORANGES AND COCOANUT — Peel and slice oranges, put a layer in a glass dish, sprinkle on white sugar, cover with a layer of dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut, add another layer of oranges and sugar, and so on alternately, with cocoanut on top. It should be pre- pared in the morning and left in a cool place, or on ice, till tea time. Layers of pineapple can be added also if desired. A glass of lemon and orange juice mixed and poured over all will be an improvement. ORANGE FLOAT.— Stir 4 tablespoons sugar in 4 tablespoons water; pour on 4 cups boiling water and stir in 1 cup sugar and the juice of 1 lemon; when it thickens (in about ^ hour) take from the stove, and as it cools pour it over 5 or 6 sliced and seeded oranges. Oranges and bananas mixed are also nice. It can be eaten thus, or DESSERTS 423 if desired spread over the top the beaten whites of 3 eggs sweetened and flavored with a few drops of vanilla. Eat with cream, ORANGE PUDDING. — Peel 3 sweet oranges, slice, take out seeds, and pour on 1 cup white sugar. Let 2 cups milk get boiling hot, add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten and 1 teaspoon of corn=starch made smooth with a little cold milk; when thickened pour it over the fruit. Make a meringue with the 2 whites of eggs and 1 tablespoon of sugar, spread it on top, and harden a few minutes in the oven Serve cold. ORANGE AND RHUBARB.-»^Into a fruit dish put a layer of sliced oranges, sprinkle on sugar, add a layer of cold rhubarb sauce well sweetened, and so on alternately. Let stand ^ hour before serving. The Okange belongs to the citrus family, to which the citron, lime, shaddock, pomaloe, etc., belong. They are all OBANOE. characterized by varying quantities of citric acid, citrate of potash and sugar in their fleshy parts. The peeled fruit contains about 86^ of water, 8 to 10^ of sugar, and small quantities of citric acid, albumen, cellulose, etc. In buying oranges remember that the sweetest ones have rough, reddish skins, while those with a thin, light yellow skin, will be more juicy, but also more acid. They are not ripe when picked if they have a greenish tinge. Oil of neroli is ob- tained from orange flowers. The fruit is quite wholesome. PEAR MERINGUE — Cook 8 canned pears in their syrup until clear and the syrup js thickened, then lay them in a glass dish, or one that may be sent to the table. Beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth with sugar, spread it over the pears and brown the top in the oven. Serve with cake — sponge cake is nice with it. Other canned fruits can be prepared the same way, and many varie- ties produced. PEAR FLUMMERY.— Line a dish with lady fingers, or any kind of stale, plain cake; pour on a thin boiled custard, and on this spread a layer of sliced and sugared pears; cover it with a frosting made of the whites of eggs beaten stiff with pulverized sugar. Serve at once. Peach Flummery can be made the same way by using peaches instead of the pears. Oranges, plums, bananas or other fresh fruits can also be used, thus producing various kinds of flummery. Also any good jam, jelly, marmalade or fruit sauce can be used instead of the pears, and many varieties can thus be made. PEACHES AND RICE — Spread a layer of plain boiled rice on a platter, sprinkle sugar over it, on this put a layer of pared and sliced peaches, sprinkle sugar over the whole and serve with cream 424 DESSERTS PINEAPPLE PUDDING.— To 5 eggs add 1 grated pineapple, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup sweet milk and a little salt; boil until thick, in a double boiler, pour into a mold and set on ice till cold. Serve with whipped or our mock whipped cream. PRUNE WHIP. — Take 2 cups prunes, sweeten to taste and stew; when cold add whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff, stir all together till light, put in a dish and bake 20 minutes. Serve with cream. Other fruit whips can be made the same way. FRUIT PUFFS.— Take | teacup of sugar, | teacup of milk, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powcJer, a saltspoon of salt, and flour to make a batter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; stir in a cup of seeded and chopped raisins or other fruit. Butter teacups and fill ^ full of batter, set the cups in a steamer, put on the cover and steam 1 hour. This quantity will make 6 cups. Eat hot with orange pud- ding sauce. . QUINCE SNOW — Take the whites of 2 eggs, ^ cup sugar, and 5 oz. of quince marmalade; put it in a dish shaped like a pyramid, and bake it a light yellow. Use other marmalades the same way, and so produce many varieties. SAGO WITH FRUIT.— Take 1 cup sago and soak it in half milk and water; then add 1 quart of boiling milk, stirring until it becomes thick, and let it cool. Put a layer of peaches, pears, strawberries, raspberries, bananas, pine- apple, oranges, or any other fruit preferred, into a pudding dish, using a little sugar if needed; then put on a layer of sago; then another of fruit, and so on until the dish is full. Set it on ice; serve with sweetened cream. Sago is a starch obtained mainly from the pith of sago palm. the sago palm. A single tree is said to yield 500 to 600 lbs. of sago. It is mainly starch, is easily digested and so is adapted to invalids, but is not very nutritious. Portland sago, or Portland arrowroot is a starch obtained from the tubers of a species of arum. STRAWBERRY FOAM — Take 1 quart strawberries, crush, sprinkle on \ cup sugar and set in a cool place till serving time. Beat 2 eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons sugar, stir into the crushed straw- berries and serve, decorated with large ripe berries. Raspberries and other fruits can be used the same way, thus produc- ing several varieties. TAPIOCA WITH FRUIT — Pick over and wash ^ cup pearl tap- ioca; put it in 3 cups boiling water and cook 1 hour, or till soft and DESSEKTS 425 transparent, stirring often; add 1 scant teaspoon of salt, |- cup sugar, and ^ cup currant jelly; stir till the jelly is all dissolved, pour into a mold, and serve very cold with sugar and cream. Instead of the jelly, ^ cup lemon juice, or any acid fruit jelly may be used; or use 1 cup canned apricot, peach or quince. In their season 2 cups of ripe strawberries, raspberries, black- berries, chopped peaches, pears, or other fruits can be used instead of the jelly, adding more sugar. These make delicious summer desserts. TURON. — Whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth; chop 7 oz, of almonds, and sprinkle by degrees into the egg; work in sufficient sugar to make a flexible paste, stirring well the whole time. Flavor with lemon essence, and put into a mold. This recipe may be varied by using chestnuts, loalniits or pea- nuts instead of the almonds, .thus producing several varieties. FRUIT TRIFLE.— Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth; add 2 tablespoons of sugar, and the same of raspberry jam and currant jelly. Eat with sponge cake, and it is delicious. MOCK STRAWBERRIES.- -Peel and cut rhubarb in small pieces and boil until tender; drain, and add 4 tablespoons of straw- berry juice to each pound of rhubarb; add enough molasses to sweeten and color a pale pink. Serve as cold as possible. (2) An- other dessert may be made by putting slices of sponge cake in a dish; prepare the fruit as above, and while warm pour it over the cake; when cold cover the top with custard or whipped cream. Mock Raspberries may be made the same way, using raspberry instead of strawberry juice. As rhubarb possesses the property of absorbing the taste of other fruits it can be made to taste exactly like them by being mixed with them and allowed to stand for a time. Pumpkin will absorb the taste of other fruits in the same way. Mock Strawberries No. 2. — Use 1 part apples to 3 parts peaches; se- lect choice, ripe fruit, and pare, core, and cut it into dice about as large as strawberries; put them in a dish in alternate layers, spread on sugar thickly, and spread crushed ice on top; let stand 2 or 3 hours, and then thoroughly mix them together; serve after they have stood some time longer. TUTTI FRUTTI — Prepare a cocoanut by opening the 2 eyes and letting out the milk which must be strained and kept; break the nut with a hatchet, or saw it in two, take out the meat, peel off the brown skin and grate. Cut 2 bananas in quarters lengthwise, and then cut 426 DESSERTS in slices. Have ready a chopped pineapple, a pint of strawberries or raspberries, and the grated rind and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange. Put a layer of the fruits and cocoanut in the bottom of a glass dish, then a layer of granulated sugar, then another layer of fruit and co- coanut and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all, the milk of the cocoanut and the juice of the lemon and orange. Dip from the bottom when serving. FRUIT ON TOAST. — Choose good apricots, halve them, remove the stones, put each half on a nice piece of bread, having the hollow side up, and arrange them in a well buttered dish; put a little butter in the hollow of each piece of fruit, sprinkle on sugar, and bake in a moderate oven about 25 or 30 minutes. When done, put them in a dish, pour over them the syrup from the baking dish, and serve hot. Peaches, pears, bananas and large plums can be treated in the same way, ADDITIONAL FRUIT DESSERTS.— There are no more deli- cious or acceptable desserts than those made from fruits in their sea- son. In addition to the recipes for fruit desserts given above we would refer our readers to such recipes as those for " Fruit Ice Cream," " Nesselrode Pudding," " Iced Strawberry Pudding," "Fro- zen Fruit," "Fruit Molds," and several others in our chapter on "Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc." Also, in the chapter on " Home Candy Making," see such reci- pes as those for " Fruit Creams," " Cream Coated Fruits," " Cream Walnuts, Dates Figs, Cherries, etc.," " Glaces " " Crystallized Cher- ries," "Crystallized Nuts," "Frosted, Iced or Crystallized Fruits," and some others. Many delicious fruit desserts will also be found in the articles on "Cooked Fruits," and " Compotes" (which see), and in the chapter on " Puddings," and several in the following section on " Gelatine Preparations." By using these, in addition to the recipes given above, a very extensive list of fruit desserts will be found. DESSERTS 427 GELATINE PREPARATIONS. To prepare gelatine first soak it in a small quantity of cold water, and then add hot water to dissolve it; or it may be placed in the required amount of cold water and set on the back of the range where it will heat and dissolve gradually. About 1 to 1^ cups of cold water to the ounce of gelatine is the right proportion. Remember that gelatine should not boil, and never needs cook- ing. It is a good plan to strain it, after it is dissolved, through a fine strainer. Gelatine can be used most satisfactorily in jellies, blanc mange, creams and ices. Never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. More is needed in summer than in winter, a scant ounce being sufficient in summer for 1 pint of liquid, while a little over ^ ounce will do in winter — this being the rule for jellies, while creams require a little less. It is best to set them on ice, when possible, as soon as they are ready. Molds should be buttered or oiled to facilitate taking the jellies from them; or they may be wet with cold water before filling. If jellies stick to the molds, set them for a moment in hot water, and they can be easily removed. Gelatine is prepared from the skin and bones of animals. It requires a care- ful selection of materials and cleanly preparation, to obtain a wholesome product. The use of white of egg to clarify the jelly is not needed now, as was formerly the case, because the gelatine is clarified during the process of manufacture. The changes of opinion regarding the nutritive value of gelatine are inter- esting. In the 18th century gelatine was considered the most nourishing constitu- ent of meat. About the middle of the 19th century the French Academy of Science made a special investigation of the subject, and as a result a complete change of opinion took place. It was shown that gelatine alone could not sustain life, a reaction occurred, and very mistakenly all food value was denied it. Further ex- periments, however, have put it in its right place, and it is now admitted that while it cannot sustain life alone, it has some value as food, but it must hold a subordinate place, and it is only valuable when eaten with other things which sup- ply the elements which it lacks. It has some slight value in convalescence, al- though very much less than many people imagine. When pure it is tasteless and devoid of flavor. Isinglass. — This was formerly obtained from the swimming bladder of the sturgeon and came from Russia, but now it is obtained from many other fish and comes from South America, the East Indies, Canada, etc. The best is almost color- less, is free from fish odor, taste and smell, and dissolves freely in any warm liquid. Chemically there is litttle difference between isinglass and gelatine, and what we say about the nourishing properties of gelatine applies equally to isinglass. Tests: A little pure isinglass put into cold water swells, and becomes soft, white and opaque, while gelatine will become transparent and glass^like. In hot water isinglass dissolves with little or no residuum, while gelatine leaves a considerable deposit. In vinegar, isinglass swells into a jelly and all trace of its structure is soon destroyed, while gelatine hardens and retains its form. These are the best tests for distinguishing between them. 428 DESSEKTS Jelly of Different Colors. — This can be prepared by having jelly of the desired colors prepared separately; then put a little of one in a mold and let it cool; then pour in a little of the other and let that cool, and_ so on, allowing each layer to set before putting in the next. Blanc mange and jelly can be combined thus very prettily. ALMOND BLANC MANGE.— Put an ounce of gelatine to soak in a teacup of cold water; set on the stove where it will heat gradual- ly and dissolve. Blanch 24 sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar; mix with 1 pint of milk and 1 pint of cream, scald the mix- ture in a double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water; sweeten to taste, add the dissolved gelatine, stir thoroughly, and pour into a mold to set. BANANAS IN JELLY. — Prepare the gelatine, sweeten it, and when cool put a layer of sliced bananas and oranges in the bottom of a prepared mold or glass dish, then pour on a little of the gel- atine, let it set, and then put in another layer of fruit, and so on alternately until the dish is full; set on ice till ready to serve. Bananas and strawberries can be used the same way. For a variety, soak the gelatine in cold water, and then dissolve it in hot lemonade; then use it with the fruit as above. APPLES IN JELLY. — Choose tart, medium sized apples, pare, core, and simmer them till tender; skim out the apples but retain the liquor they were cooked in and to it add 1 cup sugar for each pound of fruit; boil, skim, put in the apples (keeping them whole) and cook till they are clear. Slice lemons, remove the seeds, and cook them with the apples, using 1 lemon for each ^ doz. apples. Skim out the apples, put them in the dish in which they are to be served, and on each one put a slice of lemon. Into the syrup jDOur gelatine, which have previously dissolved and ready, (using about 1 oz. of gelatine for 6 or 8 apples); stir till cool, strain it over the fruit, set away to cool, and serve with cream. CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Cover 1 ounce of gelatine with cold water, shave 3 ounces of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it with 1 pint of sweet cream and the gelatine. Put it in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire, and stir it until it boils and is well mixed. Beat the yolks of 8 eggs and whites of 4 together until very light; then stir them in the mixture, with ^ lb. of white sugar; simmer it over the fire but do not let it boil; pour it in a bowl and whip it to a strong froth. Having lined your pans or molds with sponge cake fill them with the mixture and set them on ice, or in a cool place. GELATINE PREPARATIONS " 429 CHARLOTTE RUSSE. ( Without eggs). Soak 2 tablespoons of gelatine in a little cold milk 2 hours. Take 2 coffee=cups cream, 1 teacup milk; whip the cream stifp in a large bowl; set on ice. Boil the milk and pour gradually over the gelatine until dissolved, then strain; when nearly cold add the whipped cream, a spoonful at a time. Sweeten with pulverized sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Line a dish with lady= fingers or sponge-cake; pour in the cream and set in a cool place to harden. CALF'S FOOT JELLY.— Boil 2 calves' feet in 4 quarts of water until it is reduced to 1 quart; strain, let it get cold, and take off the fat; then add the well^beaten whites of 7 eggs, the juice of 4 lemons, and 1 cup of sugar; mix thoroughly and boil, with constant stirring, for about a minute, and stir through a bag of flannel. CIDER JELLY. — Take 1^ oz. gelatine, the juice of 8 lemons and the grated rind of 1; add 2 cups cold water and let it stand 1 hour; then add 2^ lbs. loaf sugar, 3 pints boiling water, and 1 pint boiled cider; put into molds, and set in a cool place. COFFEE JELLY. — Take 2 cups sugar, 2 cups strong coffee, 3 cups boiling water, and 1 box gelatine. Soak the gelatine in cold water, then put the boiling water on it; then stir the coffee and sugar in it, and place in molds. Eat it with whipped cream. Whipped cream piled around it makes it a very elegant dish. ENGLISH CREAM JELLY.— Mix 8 beaten egg yolks with 10_ spoonfuls of sugar and 1 of good vanilla flavoring. Stir this into 1 quart of milk, and stir over the fire till it thickens. Strain, and stir occasionally till cool. Having soaked 2 ounces gelatine in a pint of cold water, add to it 1 pint of boiling water, and, when dissolved and smooth, strain into the cream and put into wet molds. For Chocolate Cream proceed as above, omitting the vanilla, and adding ^ lb. of melted chocolate. Cooled in layers^ with yellow cream, it makes a very handsome dish. GOOSEBERRY CREAM — Take off the tops and stalks f rom f cup of gooseberries, and stew them in 1 plump half cup of sugar in ^ cup of water; then pulp through a sieve. Melt 1 oz. gelatine in -| cup of milk. Whip 1 cup of cream well and stir lightly in with the pulp; add the gelatine and milk, and stir till nearly cold. Put into a mold and cool. LEMON GELATINE.— Use ^ box of gelatine covered with 1 cup of cold water; let stand ^ hour; add 3 cups boiling water, 2 cups of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons; let stand until all is dissolved, strain and put in a mold. 430 ' DESSERTS LEMON CREAM — Take the juice of 4 lemons, strain, and add 1| cups sugar; dissolve | box of gelatine, and add that and the strained lemon juice to 3 cups of cream whipped till stiff. Pour into a mold, set on ice, and serve cold. COCOANUT CREAM In 1 cup of milk dissolve | box of gela- tine ; strain, and when cool add 1 cup sugar, 2 cups of either desicca- ted or fresh grated cocoanut, and 2 cups of cream whipped until stiff; then put it in a mold and set it on the ice. LEMON JELLY — Place f box gelatine in a pint of cold water, and set it on the stove where it will heat and dissolve gradually. When dissolved, add another pint of hot water, and sugar and lemon juice to taste — about 2 lemons, if small, will suit the taste of most people, but the more lemon juice, the more sugar. Make it a day before using, and set in the ice= chest to harden; serve with thick whipped cream, or our mock whipped cream, given among the fill- ings for layer cakes. LEMON JELLY AND CREAM — Place a mold of vanilla cream on the dish in which it is to be sent to the table; cut another mold of lemon jelly in pieces, or break it with a spoon to a quiv- ering mass, for a garnish. Serve a portion of each to a person; the combined flavor is delicious. LEMON WHIP. — Cover ^ box of gelatine with 4 tablespoons of cold water; let stand ^ hour and add 1 cup of boiling water, ^ cup sugar, the juice of 1 small lemon and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; stir until the sugar is dissolved, and set in a cold place to stiffen. When congealed, but not really hard, add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs, and beat all to a stiff white froth. Turn into a pudding mold and set aside several hours to harden. Serve with vanilla sauce made from the yolks of the eggs and 2 cups of milk with vanilla flavoring. GELATINE FROZEN PUDDING.— Soak | box gelatine in 2 cups cold water for ^ hour; pour on 1 cup of boiling water, and stir till it is all dissolved. Set away to cool until it begins to jelly, then stir in 2 oranges cut in small pieces, 2 bananas sliced, 12 English walnuts, 6 figs. Eat with whipped, or mock whipped cream, or soft custard. It will keep on ice for several days. One- half this will be enough for 5 or 6 persons. MOCK ICE — Rub 3 tablespoons of some good preserve through a sieve with enough milk to fill a quart mold. Dissolve f oz. of gelatine in 1 cup milk, mix well with the above, put it in a mold, set in a cool place and turn out the next day. GELATINE PREPARATIONS 431 MACEDONIAN JELLY.— Put 2 ounces of gelatine in 3 pints of cold water and place it on the stove, where it will heat gradually and dissolve. Add to the hot gelatine the strained juice of 2 lemons, and sugar to taste. Cool a little of the jelly in a mold by setting it on ice; when solid, add a layer of nicely^ washed Zante currants, seeded raisins, and stoned dates, then cover the fruit with more of the warm jelly; harden again on the ice, and repeat the process until the mold is full. Fresh grated or desiccated cocoanut may be used instead of fruit if preferred. ORANGE DESSERT. — Dissolve ^ box of gelatine in 2 cups cold water; add 2 cups boiling water, 2 cups sugar and the juice and pulp of 1 lemon. Slice 8 oranges, put them in a dish, and pour the mixture over them. Keep in a cool place till ready to serve. Other Fruits can be prepared with gelatine in the same way. ORANGE CREAM. — In 2 cups of water dissolve 1 oz. of gel- atine; strain it, and add 1^ cujjs sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, the juice of 3 oranges, with the grated rind of 1 orange, and the well= beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Put it over a gentle fire, stir until it just boils (no more), pour it into a mold, and set it in a cool place. ORANGE JELLY. — For delicious orange jelly, which does not require boiling, take 4 good^sized oranges, grate the rind of 2 and use the juice and pulp of 2 lemons; take ^ box of gelatine, and soak it in 1 cup of cold water; sweeten to suit the taste, and put with the juice of the fruit, and add | of a pint of boiling water. Strain into molds. ORANGE JELLY (French).— Swell 2 oz. of gelatine in 2 quarts of cold water, with 12 spoonfuls of sugar, and the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a froth; strain through a wet napkin into an earthen dish; add the rind of 4 very fair oranges, pared very thin; cover, and partly cool; add the juice of 8 oranges and 2 lemons; strain, and mix with the other ingredients. A few drops of yellow coloring is an improvement. It is then ready for cooling. PEACH CREAM. — Cut a can of peaches into very small pieces; dissolve ^ a box of gelatine by heating it slowly, on the back of the range, in a coffee=cup of cold water; then mix the fruit and gelatine, and when partly cooled, beat a pint of sweet cream until stiff; add sugar to taste. Mix all together and pour into a mold to harden. PINEAPPLE CREAM.— Peel and shred a pineapple, add | cup of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon; beat till stiff 1 cup sweet 432 DESSERTS cream; dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in a little hot water; mix all together lightly and pour into a mold; serve cold. PINEAPPLE JELLY.— (1) Slice pineappie thinly, sprinkle it with sugar, and let stand 2 or 3 hours; make a stiff jelly with gelatine and when cool enough to begin to thicken put a layer of the pineap- ple in a glass dish, cover it with the jelly and when it sets add more fruit, and so on alternately until the dish is full; then set on ice. Serve with whipped cream or our mock whipped cream, (2) For a variety alternate layers of pineapple and sliced orange can be used, sprinkling on lemon juice and sugar; serve cold without cream. PRUNE JELLY — Soak 1 lb. of prunes in 1 quart of water 3 hours; drain them, and strain the water in which you soaked them; put it on the range, with 1 lb. of sugar, and let it boil ^ hour. Re- move the stones from the prunes and put them into the boiling syr- up, and boil it up again; have ^ box gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water and stir it into the boiling prunes. Pour into wet molds, and set to harden in a cold place. Serve with sugar and cream, or whipped cream, or our mock whipped cream. If desired for a variety the juice of 2 oranges and that of 2 lemons, with 2 tablespoons of sugar, can be added with the gelatine. RICE CREAM. — Thicken a pint of new milk with rice flour to the consistency of cream; sweeten and flavor to taste. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff, froth. Put ^ ounce of gelatine in ^ pint cold water; when well soaked place over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved. When cold beat to a froth with an egg-beater and mix with an egg. This is excellent for inflammation of the bowels. RUSSIAN JELLY. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in 1^ cups of cold water, by placing it over a moderate heat; when warm and thoroughly dissolved, add the juice of -J a lemon, and sugar to taste; stir all together until well mixed, and the sugar melted; flavor with extract of anise seed, strain, and when nearly cold beat to a froth with an egg=beater, then pour into a mold, and place in the ice= chest to harden. A little raspberry, or other fruit juice may be used for coloring, if preferred. RUSSIAN CREAM.— r/ze Jelly.— To 1 package of gelatine add 1 pint of cold water. When dissolved add 1 pint of hot water, 2 cups of Lugar, juice of 6 lemons. Stir slowly until well dissolved, then strain into molds. The Cream. — Cover 1 package of gelatine with cold water. When dissolved add 1 cup of new milk, 1 cup sugar; heat to boiling point, stirring frequently; then set away to cool. GELATINE rEEPARATIONS 4313 Whip 1 quart of thick cream until light, beat the whites of 6 eggs, and add both to the mixture; when cool flavor with vanilla. Place the jelly in the bottom of the molds, and when stiff and cold add the cream ; turn out of the mold and serve in slices. STRAWBERRY JELLY — Mash a quart of strawberries, add a coffee=cup of water, and let them stand where they will become hot; but not boil, while ^ a box of gelatine, in a pint of cold water, is gradually dissolving and heating, on the back of the range. Strain the strawberry juice into the gelatine, and add sugar to taste; place it in a mold to harden in the refrigerator. The juice of half a lemon can be added if desired, and it can be served plain, or with whipped cream alone, or with whipped cream and sponge cake. The juice of other berries can be used instead, such as currants, raspberries, etc., and so varieties can be made. SPANISH CREAM — Put i of a box of gelatine in 1| pints of milk and soak 1^ hours; then simmer slowly, and add the yolks of 8 eggs beaten with 1 cup sugar; add a pinch of salt and any flavoring desired. Let the mixture cool a little, and add the 3 well-beaten whites; turn in glasses or custard=cups, and serve cold. SNOW PUDDING.— Use 1 pint water, 1 cup sugar, juice of 1 lemon, ^ package of gelatine; dissolve and strain into cups or molds, enough for each person; let stand until partly cool. Beat the whites of 2 eggs stiff, and stir a portion into each cup with a fork; it will look exactly like snowflakes all over the pudding. With the yolks of the eggs make a thin custard for sauce. Put the molded pudding into sauce plates, and pour the custard around each when served. Good for Sunday dinner as it can be made Saturday and kept in a cool place, and is better than when first made. VELVET CREAM — Soak ^ box gelatine in 1 cup warm water, adding the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons and two cups sugar; heat and stir till it dissolves, but do not let it boil; when nearly cold; but before it begins to stiffen, add the cream and beat thoroughly together until stiff; then pour into molds, and set on ice to harden. Half fill the molds first with nice strawberries, raspberries, or other fruits, if desired, for a variety. VANILLA CREAM.^Soak 1 ounce of gelatine in cold water 1 hour, drain and dissolve in a little hot water. Thoroughly beat the whites of 6 eggs and beat in 1 c^uart of whipped cream, add sugar to sweeten, and flavor with 1^ teaspoons of vanilla; then add the gela- tine, beat until it begins to thicken and pour into molds. Serve very cold with cream. 28 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS. fOE creams and ices can be easily prepared at home, and without much expense or labor. Many people do not realize how easily many wholesome and attractive dishes can be prepared in this way. Cream. — Cream which is skimmed off of milk after it has stood 12 hours is called single cream; that which is taken off at the end of 24 hours is called double cream, and that taken off at the end of 36 hours is called butter cream. The best double cream, and which can all be whipped to a stiff froth, is obtained by letting " single cream " stand 12 hours, and then taking off the richer part. The best cream to use is " double cream," the next best is " single cream." If any milk is used it is apt to give the ice cream a mushy, snowy taste, because the water it contains will freeze into coarse crystals, and it melts quicker than when pure cream is used. Gelatine is sometimes, added to such cream to give it firmness and disguise the milk. There are many so called ice creams made with corn=starch, etc., without using any cream at all; of course real cream is superior to any substitute, but for economy's sake the substitutes are often used. The more water and less cream used, the easier ices are frozen. When short of cream it is well to remember that to add a little, if not more than ^ teacup, is always better than to use none. Condensed Milk can be used by mixing it with scalded milk (1 can of condensed milk to 1^ quarts of scalded milk) making it into a thick custard, and freezing it; flavor to taste, but rather highly. Sugar. — Double refined or sifted white sugar is the best to use. See what we say about eggs in the introduction to our article on "Cake." Ice cream should seem quite sweet before freezing, as when frozen it seems less so. Arrowroot, etc — A little arrowroot added to the plainer creams gives them a smooth consistency, but the best creams are made with- out it. Arrowroot is more delicate and better to use than corn=^starch or flour in creams. Ice. — The best ice to use is snowy ice which is full of air-holes, and is readily penetrated by the salt. The ice is most readily broken up by putting it in a coarse bag or coffee-sack, and pounding it with ICE CKEAM, WATEK ICES AND SHERBETS 435 an ax or wooden mallet until it is broken into pieces about as large as walnuts. The finer it is broken the faster it melts. Snow makes an excellent substitute for ice, and in winter can readily be used. Pack it firmly into the freezer, add enough water to make it into a thick mush, and then put in the salt. The proportion is about 2 to 3 parts snow or ice, to 1 part salt. It is not necessary to draw ofp the water as fast as the ice melts, but wait until it floats the ice. Salt. — The best salt to use is Turk's Island salt; rock salt is next. For the first freezing have it coarsely ground, and have it in small lumps for the " packing down " after the freezing is done. Fine table salt melts the ice too rapidly and is not suitable. When through with a freezer, any salt left in it may be drained, dried, and used again. Canned fruits, etc., when used in creams, should be opened an hour before using, and turned into a pitcher to aerate; this improves their flavor very much. For extracting lemon juice a glass squeezer is best. If a metal one is used, do not let it stand a few minutes, and then use it again with- out washing, as the acid will attack the metal, and so taint the flavor. Orange juice can be extracted, without any bitter flavor, by cutting the orange in two, removing the pulp with a teaspoon, and straining it through a piece of clean cheese cloth. Flavoring. — Ice creams should seem quite highly flavored before being frozen, as after freezing they will seem less so. The Freezer. — Buy a freezer larger than you actually need to hold the cream to be frozen. Cream is better if there is room allowed for air, and this is especially true of sherbets and water ices; besides this the cream expands ^ to | in freezing, so that it is better not to fill the can more than ^ full. Less ice and salt are required in propor- tion to their contents by large than by small freezers. When not in use, the can of a freezer should be kept uncovered. After being used it should be cleaned, scalded, and thoroughly dried before being put away. Freezing the Cream. — Before beginning to freeze ice cream let it stand in the freezing^can, packed with ice, but covered only with gauze, until it is thoroughly chilled; if this is done it will freeze more readily and take less ice, and also, if not cooked, it is apt to become granular, or curdle, if the attempt is made to freeze it while warm or lukewarm. There are many freezing-machines on the market which are nearly equal in value, and less ice is required by them than by an 436 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS open pail. Directions for using the different machines are fur- nished with them, and we advise those who can do so to get a good freezer of some kind. Those, however, who have no freezer can make ices by using a tin pail with a close cover, and setting it in a larger pail which holds the ice and salt. First, pack in solidly a layer of broken ice about 3 inches deep, then set in a pail containing the ice cream mixture, and pack the ice and salt around it ; next sprinkle on a layer of salt, then about 3 times as much ice, distributing it evenly, and packing it down firmly, then more salt, and so on until the freez- er is full, covering it over the top also, and then cover it all over with an old carpet or blanket. After letting it chill for about an hour, open up the can, scrape the frozen cream from the sides, and beat all together thoroughly until it is smooth; the quality of the cream de- pends on doing this thoroughly; then turn off the brine, put on fresh ice and salt, covering it over the top, lay on the carpet, and leave for 2 or 3 hours until frozen. The can holding the mixture should have a tight lid, so that not a drop of salt or brine can get into the cream* A litte ice cream for the use of an invalid can be put in a baking powder can or tin pail, packed in salt or ice for 10 minutes, then opened and stirred well, then let stand until the freezing is complete. Do not allow ice cream or fruit ices to stand long in tin or copper vessels, certainly not when above the freezing point, for the melting cream will decompose and develop acetic acid, which will attack the metal, producing a poisonous compound. Packing Down. — Newly-frozen ice cream is apt to be mushy, and lacks flavor and consistence, so that after being frozen it is best to pack it down and let it ripen 4 or 5 hours before it is served. In packing down ice cream which is to be kept some time, turn off the brine, pack in some coarser ice and salt, and cover with an old carpet or blanket wet in brine. Keep the carpet wet by rewetting it from time to time, as then much less ice is needed because the evaporation keeps it cold. As long as any ice lasts the temperature will not rise above the freezing point. The principles involved in making ice cream are as follows: There are various freezing mixtures known and occasionally used, some of which we give elsewhere, but for our present purpose the ingredients almost universally relied on are ice and salt. All freezing mixtures have some solid substance which turns to a liquid, and in so doing it absorbs heat from the surrounding substances and so reduces their temperature, and this is the philosophical principle underlying the whole pro- cess. The ice is submitted to the action of the salt, which has a great affinity for it and melts it very rapidly, and the ice in turning to water withdraws heat rapidly from the various preparations of cream, etc., which are buried in it, and so reduces their temperature rapidly and freezes them. But from this it will be clear that the cream will not freeze until the ice around begins to melt. So also the smaller the pieces of ice the more readily the salt will act on them and melt them. ICE CKEAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 437 It is a mistake to think that the freezing needs to be done in a cool place. In a warm room the ice melts more rapidly, and so draws the heat more rapidly from the mixtm-e submitted to its action; but if the cream is kept after being frozen, it should be in a cool place, of course. The object of the coiatinual stirring of the ice cream is to keep the ingredients from separating, and the heaviest of them from settling to the bottom, while any cream which washes up against the side of the can and freezes must be scraped off and mixed in with the balance of the contents. Unless the contents are thoroughly stirred before the freezing takes place the whole will be spoiled; either lumps will form, disfiguring and discoloring it, or the sugar will settle to the bottom, leaving the contents imperfectly sweetened. It is a mistake to turn the dasher of a freezing machine rapidly, as that pre- vents the cream from being smooth; turn fast enough to accomplish the above ob- jects, but that is all. Molds. — Molds are prepared to form the cream into many fanci- ful shapes. If they are used, after freezing the ice cream press it into them firmly, so that there are no air spaces, have the cover firmly pressed down, wrap buttered paper around the joint, and bury them in ice and salt. When ready to serve them, wash off the brine; take off the cover, turn the mold on to a dish, and the ice cream will soon slip out if the room is warm. The molds are sometimes dipped in warm water to loosen the contents, but this is apt to melt the cream too much, and make it run down the sides and disfigure it. If It is desired to use 2 colors, freeze them separately, fit a piece of card=board into the mold which is to be filled, pack in 1 kind of ice cream on each side, withdraw the card^board, and set the mold on ice. Coloring Ices. — For coloring ices and creams, caramel can be used, or the amber color and some of the others mentioned under " Color- ings for Frostings " (which see). Only vegetable colors should be used. Simple Syrup can be made by putting 2 lbs. of the best lump sugar to 1 quart of water; stir occasionally till it dissolves, bring to a boil, take off any scum as it rises, draw to the side of the fire, and let it boil gently. If boiled too fast it troubles an inexperienced opera- tor, as it will candy. Should this happen, add more Water and boil again till the requisite strength is attained. Test it by letting a drop fall into a glass of cold water; if it retains its shape it will answer. When cold, bottle and keep for use. It will keep any length of time, and can be used for many purposes. When too much syrup is present a mixture will not freeze readily. The remedy is to thin it with a proportionate quantity of liquid, according to the description of ice you are making. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM. Philadelphia ice creams, so-called, are those whicn are made without eggs (those made with eggs are called Neapolitan creams) 438 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS and many people prefer the Philadelphia creams to any others, as they have a light, snowy texture. Methods of Making. — There are 2 ways of making ice cream — one is by cooking and the other is without cooking the cream and sugar. It is a little less work to make it without cooking, and the texture is white and snowy, but cooking not only prevents any tendency to curdling, but also gives the cream more richness and body. If the cream is cooked, put it in a double boiler, set it on the stove and stir often; take it off the stove when the water in the outer pan boils, add the flavors and sugar, stirring it till the sugar dissolves; let it stand a few minutes, strain, and put it into the freezing-can and freeze. If uncooked cream is used, it is a good plan to whip a part of it, chill it, and stir it in just as the freezing cream is beginning to set. The cooked cream is rich and solid; the uncooked is snowy and lighter in color, and when part of the cream is whipped it is very white and delicate, and suitable to put in molds to decorate the table. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. i.— Take 1 quart of rich cream, 1 heaping cuij (which equals ^ lb.) of sugar, and flavor to taste. This makes the simplest form of ice cream, and these materi- als form the basis, and the above are the standard proportions for all the best Philadelphia ice creams. We give 1 or 2 other recipes for Philadelphia ice cream which are sometimes used. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 3.— Mix together 2 quarts of thick cream and 1 pint of milk and ^ lb. of sugar; dissolve 1 table- spoon of soda in 4 tablespoons of hot water, cool it, and add to the cream just before freezing. Flavor to suit the taste. PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 3— Heat 3 cups of fresh milk, and when it comes to the scalding=point have ready 2 table- spoons of arrowroot dissolved in a little cold milk and add it; when of the consiste'iicy of cream, remove from the fire and cool, stirring frequently to prevent lumping; add this custard to 1^ quarts of well- whipped cream, and 1| cups sugar; flavor to taste and freeze. NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM. Method of Making — To make cooked Neapolitan cream, proceed as follows: Beat the yolks of eggs, add the sugar, and beat again; then stir in the well=beaten whites and mix all into the cream. Cook it over a good fire, in a double boiler, with continual stirring, until a knife^blade dipped into it will be slightly coated without its running, but do not let it curdle; then remove from the fire, strain, let stand until cold, and put into the freezing^can. This method is best suited ICE CEEAM, WATEK ICES AND SHERBETS 439 for caramel, chocolate, coffee, vanilla and nut ice creams. Should the custard curdle while being cooked do not throw it away, as if well frozen, it will come out smooth. There is a simple rule with regard to the use of sugar in these creams which it will be convenient to know. Use ^ lb. (or 1 heaping cup) of sugar to sweeten each quart of cream; 2 quarts of cream would therefore require 1 lb. ( or 2 cups) of sugar, and so on. Any- where from 1 to 6 eggs are used for each quart of cream, and more sugar is required to sweeten eggs than cream, the rule being ^ lb. of sugar to every 12 eggs — as the number of eggs vary, alter the amount of sugar to correspond ; thus 1 quart of cream and 6 eggs would require f lb. of sugar, and so on. NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. i.— Take 6 eggs, 1 quart of cream, f lb. of sugar; flavor to taste and prepare it as directed in the above paragraph. This is the standard formula for the best Neapoli- tan cream made by confectioners. Various flavors are used, as vanilla, coffee, chocolate and caramel, and nuts may also be intro- duced, like filberts, almonds, etc., and such fruits as apricot, cherry and peach, thus giving variety to the cream. While the above is the standard formula, used by first class confectioners, and it makes the richest and best cream, many other combinations are used, and the cooking is often dispensed with. We give 2 or 3 sample recipes. NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 2 — Take 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, and 1 tablespoon of arrowroot; scald until it thickens. When it is cool add 1 pint of whipped cream and the whites of the 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; flavor to taste, and freeze. NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 3.— Take 1 quart of rich milk or milk and cream, 4 eggs and 4 tablespoons of sugar; beat the eggs and sugar together, stir it into the milk or cream, cool, flavor and freeze. NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 4 — (Picnic ice cream.) Take 3 pints of milk, 1 pint cream, 1|- cups sugar, whites of 3 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; flavor and freeze without cooking. It can be made and served in 1 hour. VARIOUS FLAVORED ICE CREAMS. Variety in ice creams is produced mainly by varying the flavors. One of the recipes which we have given for either the Philadelphia or Neapolitan ice creams can be used as the basis, and by using 440 ICE CEEAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS different flavors an endless variety of creams can be produced. We give directions following for making many of the best and most popular of the flavors in use. All that is needed is to prepare the ice cream by one of the recipes which we have previously given, and flavor it with any desired flavor, according to the directions given. ALMOND ICE CREAM.— After blanching the almonds pound them to a paste, adding a little rose= water to prevent their oiling; then add it to any of the above ice creams for flavor. Use about 3 oz. almonds to the quart of ice cream. Another flavor is produced by blanching the almonds, roasting them in the oven to a golden brown, and pounding to a smooth paste in a mortar with a little sugar and cream. BURNT ALMOND ICE CREAM.— Put 3 tablespoons of sugar over a hot fire, in a porcelain kettle, add 4 oz. almonds, aiid heat till the almonds brown, stirring constantly. Then pound fine in a mor- tar and sift through a fine strainer. Use this to flavor any of the ice creams previously given, using 4 oz. almonds to 1 quart of cream. A pleasant combination is produced by fltting card=board into a mold and filling with almond ice cream on one side, and orange ice cream on the other. Then withdraw the card^board and pack the mold in ice 2 hours, or till ready to serve. BAKED APPLE ICE CREAM.— Use 6 good sized sweet apples to 1 quart of ice cream; bake the apples, pass them through a sieve, sweeten, stir it in the cream, and freeze. BANANA ICE CREAM — Put 3 cups milk into a double boiler and bring to a boil; then add 1 heaping cup of sugar and thicken with 1 tablespoon of arrowroot dissolved in cold milk; when it forms a thick custard take from the stove and cool; when cold, add 1 pint of cream and 6 thinly sliced bananas, and freeze. BISQUE ICE CREAM. — This is cream to which something is added to give it roughness, like nuts or powdered macaroons: Dis- solve 1 cup sugar in 1^ quarts of cream; add ^ cup caramel and ^ cup hickory=nut meats, chopped fine; then freeze. Other combinations can be used. CARAMEL ICE CREAM — Use about 3 tablespoons of caramel for each quart of ice cream. See our directions for making caramel in our article on "Colors for Frostings, etc." in the chapter on "Cake." A little less sugar will be needed when caramel is used. This is highly esteemed by many persons. ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 441 CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM — Use about 4 to 5 ounces of choco- late to the quart of ice cream. It should be rubbed smooth in a lit- tle milk. A little vanilla is also added often, and a little cinnamon gives it spicy flavor; steep the cinnamon in warm water, and use the clear liquid for flavoring. Or for variety, a little caramel can be used instead of the cinnamon flavor. That makes a chocolate cara- mel ice cream, and many people like it. COFFEE ICE CREAM.— Use about 4 tablespoons of very strong coffee to each quart of ice cream. If preferred, ground coffee can be boiled with the milk. A little arrowroot is sometimes added with coffee cream. Tea Ice Cream. — Strong tea can also be used for a flavor the same as coffee. FRUIT ICE CREAM — Soft fruit, like raspberries or straw- berries, should be mashed, sweetened, strained through a colander or not, as preferred, and stirred into the ice cream when partly frozen. Firm fleshed fruit, like peach, apricot, plum, etc., should be cut into small pieces, sugar added, allowed to stand until the sugar is dis- solved, and then stirred into the cream when it is partly frozen. Preserved Fruit and Jams can be used instead of fresh fruit for ice cream. For water ices fresh fruits should always be used. If the juice or fruits are deficient in flavor add lemon juice. FRUIT JUICE ICE CREAM.— Mix any desired fruit juice with sugar to form a clear syrup, and then beat it into the ice cream after it is frozen, or stir it in after beginning the freezing. Fruit juice should never be cooked with the cream or milk. Use 1 cup of the prepared juice to 1 quart of cream. GELATINE IN ICE CREAMS — Use ^ oz. of gelatine to 2 quarts of custard, (soaking it in a little cold milk) and dissolve it in the boiling custard just before taking it off the stove. The gelatine should be disguised by high flavoring; it is used to help the molding of thin creams. LEMON ICE CREAM.— Grate the rind of 1 lemon into 1^ cups of sugar which will extract the volatile oil; then add the juice of the lemon and stir it in 1 quart of cream; strain and freeze at once or the acid will turn the cream. Or lemon extract can be used to flavor one of our recipes for Philadelphia ice cream. MACAROON AND BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM — Dry the brown bread, -pound or crumble it, sift it through a sieve, and beat it into the ice cream when partly frozen. 442 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS Macaroons can be roasted to a bright brown, crushed, sifted and stirred in in the same way. NUT ICE CREAM. — Take walnuts, hazel-nuts, or similar nuts, chop fine, and stir them into the ice cream when it is partly frozen. Or they may be pounded in a mortar to a fine paste and then used. ORANGE ICE CREAM — Use oranges same as directed for lemon ice cream. PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM.— To each quart of ice cream allow 1 large pineapple; pare, slice, cut it very fine, lay it in a deep dish and sprinkle with sugar; cover the dish, and let it stand 2 or 3 hours; then strain through a sieve, mashing and pressing out all the juice; stir it gradually into the cream, beating well. A few slices of pine- apple can be retained unsugared, if desired, then cut into dice and when the cream is partly frozen stir them in. PISTACHIO ICE CREAM — Use | cup pistachio=nuts to 1 quart of cream; blanch the nuts, put them in a mortar and pound to a fine paste, adding a little rose= water, and a little sugar and cream; then add it to the ice cream. As pistachio=nuts are costly, almonds make a good substitute for them. TUTTI FRUTTI ICE CREAM.— This is an Italian name mean- ing simply " all fruits." Any kind of candied or crystallized fruit can be chopped fine and stirred into the ice cream when it is partly frozen; or home=^made preserves, with the syrup drained out, and chopped up, can be used. Mix any kinds of fruit you have, or de- sire to use to get a good effect, as pineapples, plums, pears, cherries, etc. VANILLA ICE CREAM.— Use 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract, or f ounce of vanilla sugar to each quart of ice cream. For making vanilla sugar see the introduction to " Cake." It should be intro- duced while the cream is cooking, and fully dissolved. This is one of the most popular creams. MACEDOINES — These are formed by mixing 2 or more fruits. Those should be selected whose flavors harmonize, as strawberry and lemon; orange and apple; apricot and peach; pineapple and orange; grape and plum, etc. Prepare and stir the fruit into the ice cream when it is partly frozen, as directed above for " Fruit Ice Cream." NESSELRODE PUDDING.- Scald in a double boiler, 1 quart of rich milk — the more cream it has the better; then add yolks of 4 eggs and 1 cup sugar beaten to a cream, and 2 cups chestnuts which ICE CKEAM, WATEK ICES AND SHEKBETS 443 have been shelled, blanched, boiled 30 minutes, and mashed to a pulp; strain, put it into the freezer, and when partly frozen stir in 2 cups of any fruit liked — berries, stoned cherries, currants or peaches — and finish freezing; it should stand 2 or 3 hours before serving, to ripen. ICED STRAWBERRY PUDDING.— Boil 2 heaping cups of sugar and 2 cups water together for 30 minutes, watching carefully that it does not get too thick. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs very light, and add to the boiling syrup; stir a moment over the fire, then turn into a large bowl, and beat continually until cold and thick like a sponge=cake batter; then add 1 pint of strawberry juice and freeze. Other fruit juices can be used instead of strawberry if desired, and so produce varieties. MOUSSE. — This is a French word meaning moss, and is ap- X^lied to cream so frozen as to give it a mossy look. Make it as fol- lows: In 1 cup cold water soak ^ box gelatine, and then set it over hot water to dissolve; whip 2 cups of cream, turn it into a basin, add the gelatine and |- cup of powdered sugar; add the flavoring, and stir carefully from the bottom towards the top until it begins to stiffen; have a mold ready, wet with cold water, turn in the mousse, lay on a piece of greased writing paper, turned greased side up, fit on the cover tightly, and pack in ice and salt 1 hour. Or it can be put into a freezer and frozen until it begins to thicken, then put in the molds, and packed in salt and ice. Flavor it with vanilla, or any flavoring desired, and also stir finely=chopped fruit in it if desired, the same as in ice cream. FROZEN FRUIT. — Cut firm=fleshed fruits like peaches, pine- apples, apples, etc., into dice; grapes, plums, etc., should be stoned and choppedj but strawberries and raspberries need not be crushed. Add sugar to sweeten, and when that is dissolved put them in the freezer and freeze. If desired, a little whipped cream can be added when they are partly frozen, but they are delicious without it. FRUIT MOLDS. — Take molds, line them with ice cream, and into the center put any fruit liked, cut into dice; or fill with berries, if preferred; put ice cream over all, press down the cover, and pack in ice and salt. Chill the fruit thus, but do not freeze it. WATEK ICES AND SHEKBETS. Water ices and sherbets (sherbet means a drink) are all com- posed of the juice pf fruit, sugar and water. They vary much in richness from the ordinary lemonade which has been frozen, up to 444 ICE CKEAM, WATER ICES AND SHEEBETS those composed of equal iDarts of sugar and pure fruit juice. They have been less popular than ice cream because they not only become soft and spongy and melt soon on exposure to the air, but as ordi- narily made they are often lumpy, have a gritty taste, and a texture like a stifPened compound of flavored water and snow. If the fol- lowing method is pursued they can be made much like ice cream in texture, being firm, smooth and delicious. Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets — Cook the water and sugar to a clear syrup in a double boiler, take off the scum, strain it (using fine muslin cloth for the strainer), and let it cool; then add the other materials (fruit juice, etc.) and put all into the freezer, pack in the ice and salt, and freeze it. It will take rather longer to freeze than ice cream, but slowly turn the crank until the contents become stifp; then the can should be opened, the sides scraped dowu; and all stirred till smooth; the beaten white of 1 egg, with 1 teaspoon of pulverized sugar beaten with it, should then be added, and worked in till smooth. This amount of egg and sugar will be sufficient for 4 quarts of sherbet. Then let the brine oflp, pack again with ice and salt, and let stand 2 or 3 hours to ripen, covered with a carpet wet in brine, keeping it wet. Then open it, beat again and again pack down. Fruit jellies, when used should be melted very carefully in water, then cooled, and frozen as just explained. If the granular kind of ices are preferred, the cooking should be omitted, the ingredients mixed and then frozen; also omit the beaten egg and sugar added last, as above directed, for finish. Some people dissolve a little gelatine and add it to water icesj as it makes them smooth. In preparing water ices remember that too much sugar prevents freezing, and too little makes them brittle. Ices are not considered very wholesome. They should not be taken at once after violent exercise, nor while very warm, and they are apt to retard digestion if taken while that is going on. Granites and Frappes (pronounced frap-pay) are formed by mix- ing the ingredients without cooking, and only about half freezing them, so that they are like wet snow. The ingredients used are fruit juice, sugar and water, the same as for water ices and sherbets. ORANGE ICE. — Take 12 fine juicy oranges, squeeze out the juice and pour a little boiling water on the pulp to extract the juice from that; add the juice of 2 lemons, the grated rind of 2 oranges, 1^ lbs. of sugar, and 1 quart of water; strain and freeze. When about half frozen add the beaten whites of 2 eggs. Lemon Ice can be made the same way, but may need more sugar. ICE CEEAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 445 PINEAPPLE ICE — Mix 1 can of chopped pineapple, 2 cups sugar, and 2 cups of water; then freeze. Or 2 cups fresh fruit can be used instead of the canned. A little lemon or orange juice or both are sometimes added to improve the flavor. A little gelatine dissolved and strained is also added sometimes. STRAWBERRY ICE. — Mix 2 cups of strawberry juice, 2 cups of sugar, and 3 cups of cold water. Soak 1 tablespoon of gelatine in 2 tablespoons of cold water, then add 2 tablespoons of boiling water and when thoroughly dissolved strain and mix with the strawberry juice and sugar; then freeze. In winter strawberry shrub may be used in place of the juice and it will be nearly as good, but it should be colored with a little cochineal. Other fruit juices can be used instead of the strawberry, and thus a variety produced. GINGER SHERBET — Make and freeze a lemon water ice; stir into it 4 oz. of preserved ginger cut into small pieces, and 2 table- spoons of the ginger syrup, and pack down. LEMON SHERBET. — Take 4 cups water, 2 cups of sugar, juice of 6 lemons, and 1 tablespoon of gelatine. The gelatine should be dissolved in part of the water, added to the other ingredients, strained and frozen. MILK SHERBET.— Mix 1 quart of milk, 1 cup of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons; then freeze. PINEAPPLE SHERBET.— Take 1 can of sliced pineapples, cut it in very small pieces, and cook until soft; add the juice of 4 lemons (strained) and 1 cup sugar; cool, and add ^ lb. of candied cherries cut in small pieces; add cold water enough to make the mixture 8 quarts. Beat the whites of 4 eggs very stiff and mix with the sherbet just before freezing and freeze at once. This amount will serve 20 persons. The Pineapple is a native of South America, but has been naturalized in many semi=tropical countries. The fruit is eaten fresh and although the taste is delicious it is not very digestible. It is very perishable. It contains little nutrition, having 89% of water, 9% of carbohydrates, OA^ albumen- oids, 0.3^ fat and 0.3^ mineral matters. When eaten uncooked they are best if pre- pared and placed on ice 2 or 3 hours before being served. VARIOUS SHERBETS.— If 2 cups of fruit juice are used to 2 lbs. of sugar and 3 pints water, and it is cooked and prepared as di- 446 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS rected in the " Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets," very fine sherbets can be made. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, apple, cherry, grape and pineapple juice all work well ; or jelly can be used as there directed, but it takes rather more of the jelly than of the juice. The pulp of peach, apricot and nectarine can be used instead of the juice. The amount of sweetening can be altered if any of the juices require it. SORBET — Take 1 quart water and 2 cups sugar, and boil together for 20 minutes; then add 1 cup orange juice, ^ cup lemon juice, and 1 can of grated pineapple; cool, strain, and freeze to a mush. Serve as soon as possible after freezing. This can be varied by substituting 1 pint of strawberry or raspberry juice for the other flavors. HOME CANDY MAKING. /j^l^ANDY can be made at home for ^ its cost at stores, and when I A ^ ®° made you know it is pure, which unfortunately is not the V 1 case with some of that sold by the trade. Ladies who de- light in making cake, preserves, etc., may easily add this to their other accomplishments. A few failures at first should cause no discouragement, as knowledge comes by experience. As candy will absorb moisture from the air in damp weather, which interferes with its hardening, choose dry weather to make it. The Materials and Tools. — Confectioner's powdered sugar is the best to use for uncooked candies as it is prepared expressly for this pur- pose. It is a kind of powdered sugar much finer than the ordinary powdered sugar. When the confectioner's sugar is not easily ob- tained the ordinary powdered or fine granulated can be used. For the kind of sugar to use for cooked candies see what we say under "Fondant." Have nuts or fruit thoroughly dry before using them in can- dy. Slightly salting most nuts before using them will improve the flavor of the candy. If almonds are to be pounded they will pulver- ize more readily if after being blanched they are well dried in an open oven. Oil, or washed butter is the best to use in greasing tins for deli- cate candies like macaroons, kisses or ratafias, as salted butter or lard is apt to impart an unpleasant taste. Porto Rico molasses of a medium grade is best for candy; or use the best New Orleans molasses. Unsw^eetened chocolate can be used for caramels and similar candies, but confectioner's sweet chocolate is better to use to dip candies in. Many ladies are bewildered by the list of tools and their names, but good results can be obtained with a small sauce=pan, and a silver spoon and fork, although a few other things are an advantage and can be obtained if candy is to be made often. The sauce=pan should not be iron, but brass, copper, tin or enamel will do; 2 or 3 small wooden paddles will be useful. A thermometer costing $2.00 to $2.50 for testing sugar will be convenient if much candy is made, but as there are other tests it is not essential. A marble slab with a smooth top will be a convenience but a large meat plate can be used 447 448 HOME CANDY MAKING for small quantities if you haven't that. Candy tongs and candy dippers will also be an advantage, and so will a stout candy hook fastened to the wall on which to pull candies. Any blacksmith can make such a hook, using f inch iron, about 14 inches long, bending it into the shape of a fish hook, sharpening the point, and flattening the other end and boring 3 screw holes in it. Fasten it up about 5 feet from the floor. In making candy use a vessel deep enough to hold it when it boils up, and lift it from the flre when it is in danger of boiling over. Watch carefully to keep it from burning. In Pulling candy have the hands well greased, throw the candy over the hook and pull it towards you; as a rule, take hold of the candy firmly, and make that move without sliding the hands over it or you will blister the hands; as soon as the candy seems likely to break, throw it over the hook again, and continue pulling it thus until it is white and nearly cold. Greasing the hands is better than flouring them when handling candy as the flour is apt to unpleasantly affect its flavor. Coloring. — For this use vegetable colors only, and they are better prepared at home than when bought at the stores. For preparing various colors see " Frosting " for cakes. For amber or light hroivn, use a little caramel. For carmine or pm/c, use some of the cochineal. For green use more or less of the spinach green, according to the shade desired. For yellow use saffron, or grated orange rind, which is better, and so on. Only a little coloring matter is needed. Flavorings — These should be selected with care. Flavorings for fondant should be as strong as possible and then use but little, be- cause fondant liquifles so easily. Many of the flavorings given in our article on flavorings in the introduction to the chapter on "Cake" can be used. The tea, Bedford, laurel and citronelle, will be found excellent. If chocolate is used it will be an advan- tage to add a little vanilla. For ordinary candies 5 cents worth of oil of cloves, cinnamon, wintergreen, lemon or peppermint will flavor 50 lbs. of candy. Add flavors the last thing, or when the candy is nearly cold, as their strength is wasted if added while it is hot. BOILING SUGAR. — In boiling sugar it is well to understand the different " degrees," as the confectioners call them, through which the sugar passes. There are 12 of these degrees called small thread, large thread, little pearl, large pearl, the blow, the featlier, the soft ball, the hard ball, the soft crack, the crack, the hard crack, and the caramel. Let us examine this a little, but remember that HOME CANDY MAKINO 449 in Handling sugar skilfully much judgment is needed. Suppose we put on the stove 3 lbs. of sugar and 2 cups of water and stir till it dissolves. After boiling a few minutes it will approach the first de- gree called thread, and as it passes from 1 degree to another quite rapidly it must be watched closely and tested often but without stir- ring it. The thread degree is known by dipping the forefinger into the syrup, or touching it to the syrup adhering to a small stick which has been dipped in; then touch the forefinger with the thumb, and draw the fingers apart; if a fine thread is formed which breaks at a short distance, and remains on the finger and thumb as a drop, it has reached the small thread. Boil a little longer, repeat the test, and a longer thread will be drawn known as the large thread. This is the finger test. A thermometer will show about 220°. The pearl degree is tested the. same way. When the thread reaches from the thumb to the finger, without breaking, as they are drawn apart, it has reached the small pearl, and when it will spin across as far as the thumb and finger can be separated, it has reached the large pearl. Another sign is that the syrup shows bubbles on the surface, but this is more of a hint than a test. The thermometer will show 226°. The blow degree is tested by dipping a skimmer into the syrup, shaking it a little, and blowing through the holes; if small bubbles or air bladders appear on the other side the blow is reached. It will be 230° by the thermometer. The feather degree is tested in the same way, but more bubbles are produced; another test is to dip in the skimmer, shake it over the pan, and then give it a sudden flirt away from you, and the syrup will fly off like feathers, or more properly in threads. At this stage there is not enough water left to hold the sugar in solution, and it will manifest a tendency to crystallize or grain. The thermometer will show 236°. The ball degree is tested by dipping the forefinger in a basin of ice water, then take a little syrup on the finger-tip and plunge it into the water again, and roll it with the thumb; if it forms a soft ball it has reached the soft ball (at 240°).- This is the point at which to use it for mint cream drops. When a larger and harder ball is formed, which sticks unpleasantly to the teeth on being bitten, the hard ball degree is reached (at 248°). The crack degree is tested in the same way, and if the sugar adher- ing to the finger breaks with a slight noise, and does not adhere to the teeth, it has reached the soft crack; the thermometer will show 29 450 HOME CANDY MAKING 252°. On boiling it up again, and testing the same way, the crack degree will be reached at 260° ; at 290° the syrup will break short and brittle, cracking like an egg=shell, and is then known as the hard crack degree. The caramel* degree soon follows, and the syrup loses its white- ness and turns a light straw color. A few drops of some acid, like vinegar, lemon juice or tartaric acid, should be added now to prevent its graining, and the pan should be quickly taken from the stove and set into cold water to prevent the syrup from burning, or it will soon become a dark brown and be spoiled. At the caramel stage the sugar will snap like glass on being dipped into water. Hints. — Dropping in the acid is called greasing the syrup. Do not add too much or you will spoil it. Confectioners have a saying that "there are 20 different ways to grease syrup, but none to make it grain when greasy." A small piece of butter put into the pan will prevent the syrup from rising over the sides, and will grease or smooth it, and thus act like the acid in keeping it from graining. For testing the syrup a small round stick is sometimes used in- stead of the finger; dip it into the cold water, then into the syrup, and then into the water again. Have the water close by, and be sure it is cold or it will not test well. If the water is cold enough and the fingers are held in it till cold, then dipped into the hot syriip and in- stantly plunged into the cold water again, they will not burn when used to test even boiling syrup. Keep the sides of the pan clear from crystals of sugar by wiping them off with a damp sponge or flannel, and do not let the crystals drop into the pan, or they will cause granulation. In doing this do not let the fingers touch the syrup or they will be burned. One washing down is generally enough, but repeat if necessary. If at any time you boil the syrup a little too much, or produce a degree beyond what you wish for, put in a little water and boil it up again. Sugar that has been boiled too often, however, loses many of its good qualities. After dissolving the sugar do not stir the syrup; there will be danger of making it granulate if the pan is shaken while it is boiling. Sugar which has grained can be boiled again and used for taffy or cream candy. Do not set candy in a refrigerator to cool it, but in a cool, d7'y place. Air-tight boxes are the best in which to keep candy. *The name "Caramel" is derived from a Count Albufage Caramel, of Nismes, France, who discovered this stage of boiling. HOME CANDY MAKING 451 FONDANT OK CREAM CANDIES. FONDANT OR CREAM — Fondant is the foundation for almost all French candies, and can be easily made by the amateur so that it will look and taste as well as that made by the professional. Granu- lated confectioner's powdered or coflPee A sugar can be used, but cof- fee A more generally gives good results. For a trial add § teacup of water to 1 lb. coffee A sugar; let it stand an hour or so, and then add cream of tartar the size of a white bean, dissolving it first in a little cold water; now set the pan over a quick fire (be particular about that, as it is quite important) and stir constantly until the candy be- gins to boil; then stop stirring at once. After it has boiled a few minutes drop some of it into cold water to test it; try it often, and when you find the candy can be gathered up in the fingers in a ball which does not at once soften when held (about the soft ball degree) it is ready to take from the fire, and should be very carefully poured into a pan which has been sprinkled with cold water, and which sets level. Be sure the candy is not stirred from the time it begins to boil until it is poured into the pan, 9,s it would grain if stirred. Greasing the pan is often advised, but it is apt to affect the taste of the candy, and we have found moistening sufficient. Let it remain without stirring or shaking until it is almost perfectly cold; then beat it constantly with a large spoon or paddle. In a short time the candy will get white, and then begin to harden; now gather it into a mass and put it on a sprinkled marble slab if you have it; if not, knead it in the same pan in which it cooled, but in either case, knead it as you would bread dough for a few minutes with the hands. If it is not hard enough to knead, stir as long as you can with the spoon and then set away awhile and it may harden sufficiently to work; if not, add a little water and cook again, allowing the ball to cook a lit- tle harder than before. Remember that sugar passes very rapidly from one degree to another, and so must be tried often. When cooked enough, pour it into the pan and treat as before directed. If not boiled long enough the fondant will be too soft on attempting to knead it; if boiled too long it will harden too quickly, and be hard and lumpy. Skill in working it will come with practice and experi- ence. This fondant can be used for dipping, and if it is cooked enough it can be made into balls to be dipped in melted fondant. It can also be used for "patties." It can be made in quantities and kept in a stone or china dish or jar, well covered with waxed or but- tered paper to keep the air out, using it as needed; it will keep thus a week in cold weather. Do not scrape the sauce=pan after pouring 452 HOME CANDY MAKING out the fondant; put a little boiling water in it, set on the stove, and it can soon be easily washed out. The above fondant will form the foundation for all your French candies. It can be colored with cochineal, saffron, etc., and flavored with any flavoring desired. In working these candies there is a chance for displaying one's taste and skill. It can be made into rolls, and pieces sliced off, or made into cubes, or formed into any shape to imitate French candies. As French candies are nearly all made by hand, you can notice their forms and imitate them. We ex- plain some of the most popular forms for these candies, and you can easily devise others; there is no limit to the varieties which can be produced by varying the flavors, using noyeau, maraschino, tea, cof- fee, and other flavors less common than the vanilla and lemon. Va- riegated effects are produced by using fondant, variously colored, and so on. Melting Poadaot. — In melting fondant put some of it in a cup and set it in a dish of boiling water, instead of setting it directly on the stove; when melted, the cup can be held in the. hand while the dip- ping or dropping is being done. It is sometimes said that the cup must be kept in hot water during the dijDping, but we have not found this necessary, for as soon as it hardens too much to use readily it can be set back in the hot water and softened again. If very hot, it may be too thin; if so, stir a minute till it thickens. If it is too thick, cautiously add a little hot water, 1 or 2 drops at a time, as a little too much water will spoil it for dipping candies, although it can be used for dipping fresh fruits. In using a fork for dipping candies, grease it well, and do not stick it into the article, but drop the ball or nut into the melted fondant and lift it out with the tines of the fork, using them like a spoon; rest it a second, to drain, on the edge of the bowl, and then deftly drop the coated candy onto the oiled paper. ORANGE OR LEMON CREAMS — Grate the yellow rind of an orange carefully into a plate, and add the juice of ^ an orange and ^ a lemon, and just a dash of tartaric acid; then mix it with enough confectioner's powdered sugar to make a stiff paste, form it into little balls, and set away to dry for a few hours; then melt a little fondant in a cup as before directed, and drop in each little ball, lift it out with a fork, and lay it on oiled paper. If the cream gets too thin to cover the balls well, let it cool a minute; if it gets too thick warm it again. Lemon Creams are made by using lemon in the same way. HOME CANDY MAKING 453 BALLS. — Fondant can be melted and an equal amount of alm- ond paste stirred into it; this can be formed into balls, and these balls dipped into melted fondant as directed for orange creams. By flavoring this melted fondant with coffee, tea, etc., various effects can be produced, which will be novel and attractive. WALNUT CREAMS — Melt a little fondant in a cup as before diiected; color it with cochineal, and flavor with vanilla or not, as preferred; then drop in walnut meats, one at a time, taking them out on the tines of a fork, and placing them on buttered paper to harden; then repeat the operation giving each one a second coat. Another way is to flavor a little fondant with vanilla, form it into small balls, press the 2 halves of a walnut on opposite sides of each one, and set it on an oiled dish to harden. If the nuts are slightly salted before being .used it will improve the flavor. Almond Creams can be formed by using almonds instead of wal- nuts. CHOCOLATE CREAMS — Flavor a little fondant with vanilla and roll it into balls the size of walnuts; then take some confection- er's sweetened chocolate, heat it, and mix" in enough well=beaten white of egg to make a smooth, thick paste; dip each little ball into this paste, and lift it out with a fork and drop it onto oiled paper; if the white shows through, add more chocolate. Let the balls dry for some time. RASPBERRY CREAMS.— Mix a little raspberry jam with enough confectioner's powdered sugar to form a stiff paste, and roll it into little balls between the palms of the hands; then melt a little fondant as before directed, color it with cochineal, and dip in these balls as directed for " Orange Oreams," giving each ball 2 coats if needed. Strawberry Creams can be made with strawberry jam the same way. MAPLE SUGAR CREAMS — Grate fine maple sugar and mix it with fondant to suit the taste, and form into any shape desired. The walnut creams are very nice made with maple sugar. COCOANUT CREAMS — Take | cup grated cocoanut, 1 cup con- fectioner's powdered sugar and 5 teaspoons of milk; mix, form it into little balls, let them dry 3 or 4 hours, and dip them in melted fondant as directed for " Orange Creams." These are very nice cov- ered with maple sugar fondant. FRUIT CREAMS. — Take some fondant and, while it is warm, work in grated cocoanut, or finely-chopped citron, currants, figs, or 454 HOME CANDY MAKING other fruit; it can then be formed into balls, bars, or flat cakes, and these set aside to dry. Dates and Cherries can be cut in two, and the stones or seeds taken out, and little balls of flavored fondant put inside; then press them together, roll them in granulated sugar, and set to dry. A deli- cious confection is also produced by putting salted almonds inside, instead of the fondant. Try it. Caoaed Plums or Figs can have the skins and stones removed, then be rubbed to a paste with confectioner's powdered sugar and a trifle of cream of tartar added; then form into balls, and dip as directed for "Orange Creams." CREAM=COATED FRUITS.— Melt some fondant, and add any flavoring desired, only select that which will go well with the fruit to be dipped. The fondant can also be colored, if desired, to ^uit one's fancy. A fondant which is too soft for making the balls or cen- ters for candy, can be used for this purpose. Grap js, currants, cher- ries, strawberries, raspberries, and other fruit, can then be dipped into the prepared fondant, dipping each berry separately, and laying them to dry on oiled paper, or set them in the little paper cases if you have them. Select choice fruit for this purpose. Fruit thus dipped is quite attractive for dessert or breakfast. Oranges also may be peeled, each carpel separated carefully without breaking the skin, and then dipped in melted fondant, which is colored with grated orange rind and thinned with orange juice This process is new and good. PATTIES — These are simply melted fondant, flavored as desired, and formed into drops or patties the size of a half dollar; they will be hard enough to eat in ^ hour. By using different flavors, as peppermint, wintergreen, etc., numberless varieties can be pro- duced. UNCOOKED CREAM OR FONDANT.— Pass 2 or 3 lbs. of XXXX powdered sugar through a sieve, shape it like a cone on the table, make a well in the top, put in a little water, work in sugar till it is absorbed, put in a little more, and keep on thus doing until a smooth, stiff paste is formed. While doing this, work in a little vanilla or any other flavor desired. This will serve as a foundation for any of the candies for which " Fondant " is used, but it cannot be melted to use as a coating. By varying this uncooked cream a little a variety of fine candies can be produced. Thus lemon creams can be made by working up the sugar with lemon juice and a little grated rind; then form them HOME CANDY MAKING 455 into creams. Or use orange juice and rind for orange creams. Or use any fruit juice instead of the water for mixing, such as pineap- ple, raspberry, strawberry, etc.; the flavor is thus easily varied. Cream Walnuts, Dates, Figs, Cherries, etc. — These can be made from the uncooked fondant as follows: Roll some of the uncooked fondant between the hands into a strip about 1 inch in diameter, and then cut the strip into sections about 1 inch long, and, using the hands, roll these into balls, then take each one, press the 2 halves of a walnut on the sides opposite each other, and put them in a pan in rows as fast as formed; set them aside to harden a few hours and they will be ready to use. To prepare cherries, figs, or dates, take out the seeds after cutting them in two, put in a piece of cream, roll them in the hands, and set in rows on a greased dish to harden. If desired, they can be rolled in granulated sugar as fast as formed, to coat the sur- face; then set aside to harden. CREAM CANDIES.— Take the whites of 1 or 2 eggs, add an equal quantity of cold water, and stir in enough confectioner's pow- dered sugar to knead well. Flavor to taste. Cliocolate Creams can be made by flavoring some of this pasxe, forming into balls, and dipping it into melted chocolate; grate the chocolate, put it in a dish, and set that in a pan of boiling water till melted; after dipping in the creams, any kind of nuts, figs, or rai- sins can be pressed on top. A great variety of candies can be formed from this cream, as it is in reality only an uncooked " Fondant," and will serve as the foundation for any of the candies previously given for which "Fond- ant" is used, but it cannot be melted for use as a coating. Varying the Cream — This paste is varied sometimes by using milk instead of water, and by beating the egg. Take the white of an egg and an equal quantity of milk; beat the egg, add the milk, and form to a paste with confectioner's powdered sugar as above directed; this paste when done is handled the same as the other paste. Gum arable is used sometimes instead of the white of egg; a paste is formed by mixing the gum arable with confectioner's powdered sugar, and the paste thus formed is worked up in numberless ways. There are many slight changes in making the paste or cream, but the re- sults are very similar. LOZENGES — -Wintergreen lozenges can be made of the above cream by flavoring it with wintergreen, rolling it out thin, and cutting out the lozenges with a little tin cutter. Various other lozenges can be produced by using different flavors, and they can also be tinted with different colors, if desired, for a variety. 456 HOME CANDY MAKING BONBONS. — Make a paste by working confectioner's powdered sugar into gum arabic water, and flavor it with vanilla; form it into balls and let them dry. Then dip each ball into a cream made of the beaten whites of eggs and the confectioner's sugar, flavored and col- ored with chocolate. This last cream should be thin. By varying the flavorings, using different colors, etc., an endless variety may be made. CREAM NUT CANDY.— Mix | lb. coffee A or granulated sugar in 1 teacup of sweet cream, and heat slowly on the stove till the sugar is dissolved; then boil 5 minutes, and stir in -J lb. of nut kernels, which should be finely grated or chopped; then boil 10 minutes, and pour it onto the buttered plates; cut it into squares when partly cool; it will harden in about 2 days. MARSH=MALLOWS — Take 4 oz. of the best white gum arabic, dissolve it in 1 cup of water and strain it; then add a full ^ cup of powdered sugar, set it on the stove, and continually stir until the mixture is about as thick as honey, and the sugar is well dissolved; the well^beaten whites of 2 eggs should then be added gradually, and stirred until the mixture becomes thinned and will not stick to the finger when touched; flavor to taste with lemon, rose, wintergreen or anything preferred. Pour it to cool into a square tin pan dusted with corn^starch. Cut into squares when cold, and dust each one with corn=starch. This will keep best in tin boxes. NOUGAT. — Make the marsh^mallow paste as above directed, and then stir in ^ lb. of almonds blanched and cut fine; set to cool as before; then cut, when cold, into long bars and wrap in waxed paper. Hazel-nuts, pistack{0'7iuts, etc., can be used at times for a variety. COCOANUT CREAM CANDY.— Mix the milk of 1 cocoanut and 1^ lbs. coffee A or granulated sugar, and heat slowly until the sugar is dissolved; then boil 5 ooooanut '1 ° ' AND BLOSSOM. minutes, add the grated meat of the cocoanut, and boil 10 minutes longer, stirring continually; pour on buttered plates .o harden, and when it begins to harden, cut into squares. It will harden in about 2 days. MISCELLANEOUS CANDIES, ETC. QLACES — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup water, and ^ teaspoon of cream tartar; boil it to the "crack" degree, that is, so that it will break when in cold water, and will not stick to the teeth HOME CANDY MAKING 457 when eaten, and set the vessel containing it into a basin of hot water to keep it warm; if it gets too cool while being used, it can be reheated twice, but it will not soften after that. Into this mixture can be dipped nuts, such as almonds, peanuts, walnuts, etc., or fruits like grapes, cherries, dates, figs, sections or carpels of oranges, etc. Have the fruit or nuts dry before dipping them, and dip them one at a time. Grapes and cherries can be dipped in by their stems; nuts and so on, can be dro]pped in and lifted out on the welhgreased tines of a fork. Lay them to dry on greased paper or pans, or on a sieve also greased. In damp weather the atmosphere is apt to make them sticky, and even in dry weather 'they should be kept in an air-tight jar or tin box. Some of the fruits are best eaten within a few hours after being prepared. TAFFY (Lemon), — Put 1 cup of water and 1^ lbs. coffee A sugar over the fire; stir until dissolved, then add ^ teaspoon of cream tartar; wipe down the sides of the pan with a damp cloth or sponge to remove the crystals, and boil until it reaches the "crack" degree; then turn it into shallow greased pans to cool, sprinkling on 1 tea- spoon of lemon extract. Mark into squares with a sharp, greased knife, when it is partly cold. Or, it can be turned onto a well- greased slab, and when the edges cool a little they should be turned in toward the center, repeating this every few minutes until it is cool enough to handle. Then pull it as previously directed for pulling candy. If it is pulled, the flavoring extract is best sprinkled on a little at a time during the pulling. Then take it off the hook, pull it into long strips, and cut these into little blocks 3 or 4 inches long; set them in a cool place on greased pans to cool. Vanilla Taffy can be made in the same way, but flavor with vanilla instead of lemon. Molasses Taffy. — Boil 1 quart of New Orleans molasses for 30 min- utes in a large pan, so that it will not run over, stii'ring continually ; then add -^ teaspoon baking soda, and boil it to the " crack" degree; then add 1 teaspoon lemon juice and pour it into shallow, well- greased pans or a platter to cool; when partly cool it may be marked into squares or pulled to a bright golden color, and finished as directed for other taflies. Walnut Molasses Candy. — Make the molasses taffy as just directed, and when it gets to the "crack," degree, stir in all the walnut ker- nels it will hold (have the walnuts perfectly dry ) ; pour it into well= greased pans to cool; cut a lemon in two, and with the flat side press the candy down smooth; cut it into bars with a well-greased knife, when partially cool. 458 HOME CANDY MAKING Peanut Molasses Candy can be made the same way, but use peanuts instead of walnuts. Everton Taffy. — To 1 lb. cofifee A or granulated sugar, add 1 tea- cup of water; cream ^ lb. of butter and have it ready, and when the sugar is dissolved stir it in; flavor with lemon, cook to the "crack" degree, turn it into greased pans, and with a greased knife mark into blocks when partly cold. PLAIN MOLASSES CANDY.— Take 2 cups of molasses, 1 cup of brown sugar and 1 tablespoon of butter, and boil until it will hard- en in cold water; then stir in 1 tablespoon of vinegar, pour it on the buttered plates, and pull as soon as cooT. Adding the sugar makes the candy more brittle; if white sugar is used instead of brown, the candy will be whiter, and if a teaspoon of soda is stirred in well, just before pouring out the candy, it will whiten it still more. The vinegar keeps it from graining, and lemon juice or tartaric acid would answer as well. The butter keeps it from rising over the sides of the pan as it boils, and makes it smoother; some people add a little sweet cream also. The idea that molasses candy should be stirred from the time it is put on the stove until it is taken ofif is erroneous. A tin lid placed over the pan as soon as it begins to boil, will keep in the steam which will wash the candy from the sides of the pan. When beginning to pull the candy it should be rather sticky, or else it will not be of the right consistency when done. After getting the mass into good shape, pull it briskly a few minutes while holding it over the stove, and the heat and the pulling combined will whiten it wonderfully. For Peanut Molasses Candy prepare the peanuts while the candy is cooking, lay them on buttered pans, and pour the candy over them when done; cut into blocks with a greased knife when it is slightly cooled. For Walnut Candy stir in a cup of walnuts just before removing it from the fire; then pour into greased tins and finish as above. BUTTER SCOTCH — Take 3 cups of white sugar, ^ cup of water, ^ teaspoon of cream tartar and 1 tablespoon of butter; boil, without stirring, to the "crack" degree; add ^ teaspoon of soda and 8 drops of lemon extract, and turn it into well=greased pans, having it about ^ inch thick; when partly cool, mark into inch squares with a well= greased knife. SWEET FLAG CANDY — Take some sweet flag root, wash it, scrape thoroughly, slice very thin, and boil 10 minutes in twice as much water as there is of the flag; drain off the water, and for each cup of this extract add 1 cup thick maple syrup — or sugar will an- swer; stir well together, and cook till the sugar grains. Excellent for colds. COUGH CANDY. — Break 2 oz. slippery elm bark into small bits, add 1 cup water and 2 oz. flaxseed, and let it soak, stirring a few HOME CANDY MAKING 459 times, for 1 or 2 hours; strain, add 3 cups brown sugar, put it on the stove, stir till the sugar dissolves, and boil 5 minutes; put in 2 table- spoons of lemon juice and bring to the "crack" degree; pour it to cool into greased pans, and cut into small squares when partially cool. This is a valuable remedy for those troubled with throat affections, or who use their voices much, and a pleasant candy as well. PEPPERMINT DROPS.— Take 1 cup granulated sugar, moisten it with 2 tablespoons water; boil it 5 minutes, then take from the fire and add cream of tartar the size of a pea; mix well, and add 4 or 5 drops of oil of peppermint, and beat " it briskly until the mixture whitens (have the cream of tartar and pep- permint measured and ready while the sugar is boiling), then drop it quickly onto oiled paper, in drops about the size of peas, or other sizes if preferred. When firm, they can be removed from the paper by moistening it on the under side, and lifting them off with a limber knife. Dry them in a warm place on a sieve, and keep in closely covered boxes. If powdered or confectioner's sugar is used the drops will be less bril- liant. If the sugar dust is separated from the granulated sugar with a hair sieve, it will be an advantage. If the cream gets too hard to drop from the spoon set it on the stove, stir till it gets thinner, and drop as before. Peppermint belongs to the mint family and grows abundantly in all temperate climates. It is a powerful stimulant and the peppermint candies are very efficace- ous in relieving flatulence and nausea. For Ginger Drops proceed exactly the same as for peppermint, but instead of flavoring with peppermint use 2 teaspoons of Jamaica ginger. For Rose Drops flavor with 7 or 8 drops of essence of rose, and color it with 7 or 8 drops of the prepared cochineal given elsewhere Lemon Drops can be produced by flavoring it with 1 teaspoo'n of acetic acid; or proceed as follows: Use just enough strained lemon juice to dissolve 1 cup of sugar; boil to a thick syrup, drop onto greased plates, and set in a warm place to harden. We prefer the flrst method, PEPPEKMINT. 460 HOME CANDY MAKING Wintergreen Drops can be made like peppermint drops, but flavor with wintergreen, and tint with the jjrepared cochineal. For Currant Drops moisten the sugar with currant juice instead of water; set it on the stove and melt, stirring constantly, but do not let it boil; then add a very little more sugar, warm it a moment with the rest, drop it on oiled paper, and finish like peppermint drops. By using raspberry or strawberry juice, instead of the currant juice, raspberry or strawberry drops are produced. Orange Drops. — Take the juice and grated rind of 1 orange, add a pinch of tartaric acid, and stir in enough confectioner's powdered sugar to work well; form it into balls the size of marbles. CARAMELS {Chocolate.) — Take 4 cups of brown sugar, 2 cups New Orleans molasses, ^ cup of milk, 2 cups Baker's chocolate (grat- ed), and butter the size of an egg; stir all together, and boil slowly over a slow fire until it cracks in water (the "soft crack" degree); add vanilla flavor and turn it about \ inch deep, into large, flat, well= greased tins; when nearly cold, mark it deeply into squares with a greased knife. Break apart when cold, and wrap in waxed paper. Maple Caramels. — Take 4 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup crushed maple sugar, 1 cup sweet cream ; bring to a boil, and add 1 tablespoon of butter and a pinch of cream tartar; cook slowly, with constant stirring, to the "soft crack " degree, and finish as directed for choco- late caramels. Nut Caramels. — Make the same as chocolate caramels and when it is cooked (to the "crack" degree) stir in about 1 lb. of nuts, chopped fine; use walnuts, or walnuts and almonds mixed; then finish as with the chocolate caramels. Vanilla Caramels. — Cream 2 tablespoons ot butter, and work in 1 cup brown sugar; then mix in 1 cup cream and 1 cup New Orleans molasses, and treat as directed for chocolate caramels, flavoring with 1 teaspoon of vanilla just before pouring out to cool. This can be made into strawberry caramel by flavoring with strawberry instead of vanilla, and working in a little red coloring. FRENCH CHOCOLATES. — Melt some confectioner's sweetened chocolate* in a cup set in hot water, and into it drop nuts of various kinds, or small pieces of candied fruit; lift out each piece with a fork and lay it on oiled paper to harden. A great variety of delicious and popular candies can be made thus, and they will keep longer than the French chocolates sold in the stores. HOARHOUND CANDY.— Boil about 1 oz. of the herb in 1^ cups water; then strain it, stir in 3 cups brown sugar, and when it HOME CANDY MAKING 461 boils add 2 tablespoons of vinegar; boil until it is brittle when tested in cold water; pour it into greased pans, and mark into squares with a greased knife when partly cold. HONEY CANDY.— Take 2 cups coffee A sugar, water enough to dissolve it, and 4 table- spoons of strained honey; boil until brittle on being dropped in cold water; stir in a teaspoon of nut kernels, and pour it to cool in greased pans. Or, for a variety, leave out the nuts and pull it while cooling. PEANUT CANDY.— Take 1 cup coffee A or granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, and boil till it will harden in cold water; add a peanut. pinch of cream tartar, and stir in 1 cup of shelled peanuts; finish as directed for hoarhound candy. The Peanut is a native of India but is now extensively grown in America. It will yield from 60 to 90 bushels or even more to the acre. It is an oily nut con- taining a good deal of nutrition, but it is rather difficult of digestion. BUTTERNUT BALLS. — Take some butternuts or beachnuts, pound them very fine in a mortar, and add a little allspice and nut- meg. Make a frosting as for cakes, and stir in enough of the mix- ture to make it thick enough to handle. Grease the hands, form this mixture into balls, and set on greased tins, allowing room for them to spread as they dry. FIG CANDY — Take 1^ cups water and 1 lb. coffee A or granu- lated sugar; boil until it is brittle when dropped in cold water; add 1 teaspoon each of butter and vinegar, and pour it into greased pans on which slices of figs have been laid; put slices on top also. CRYSTALLIZED POPCORN — Take 1 teacup coffee A or gran- ulated sugar, 3 tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of butter; boil to the " hard ball " degree, and then throw in 3 quarts of nicely popped corn; stir briskly until the candy is evenly distributed over the corn; take the kettle from the fire (be careful the corn does not burn) stir until it cools a little, and each grain will be separated and coated with crystallized sugar. Nut meats of any kind may be crystallized the same way. CRYSTALLIZED CHERRIES — Prepare the sugar and bring it to the " hard ball " degree as directed for crystallized popcorn, and then pour it over some fine ripe cherries which have been stoned: move them about gently, to coat them nicely, and when almost cold, dry them in a cool oven or near the fire. 462 HOME CANDY MAKING POPCORN BALLS.-Sort all the hard kernels out of popcorn; then take the amount of molasses needed, and boil it until it will hair or thread off the end of a spoon (the "feather" degree); pour the hot molasses over the corn, mix well, and make into balls as soon as it cools a little, having the hands well greased. Corn=cake can be prepared by putting the mass while warm into greased tins, pressing it into thin sheets with greased rollers and afterwards cutting it into small square cakes. RATAFIAS — Use | lb. of sweet almonds, i lb. bitter almonds, 2 cups granulated sugar, whites of 4 eggs. Blanch, skin and dry the almonds; then pound them in a mortar with the white of 1 egg; then stir the sugar in gradually, and add the remaining whites of egg; beat thoroughly, and drop on tins covered with writing or cartridge paper, and bake about 10 minutes in a quick oven. The ratafias should be about the size of a large button when done, and as they spread very much in baking only a very little of the paste should be allowed for each one. Have them far enough apart on the paper so that they will not touch as they swell in baking. WHITE CANDY — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup water, and 1 tablespoon of vinegar; boil without stirring until it is brittle when dropped in cold water; pour into greased pans, and pull when cool enough, adding vanilla flavor as you pull it; form it into sticks, and set in a cool place till the next day. CRYSTALLIZED NUTS— Select the finest nuts and lay them in well=beaten white of egg, drain them, and again beat what white of egg drips ofip; then dip them one by one into powdered sugar; lay a sheet of fine paper on a pan, place the nuts on it, and set in a cool oven; when the icing becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and keep in a cool, dry place. FROSTED, ICED OR CRYSTALLIZED FRUITS.-Select ripe, perfect fruit, and dip it in the welhbeaten white of egg to which a little cold water has been added, or into thin gum arable water; then roll it in pulverized or fine granulated sugar; let it dry a little, and roll again, laying it on oiled paper to dry. Keep it in a cool, dry place until ready to arrange it for the table, as dampness may make it sticky. Currants, cherries, grapes, plums, peaches, or other fruit, may be thus prepared, and it is very attractive for the tea=table or dessert. Leave grapes or currants on the stem, and brush the fur oflf of peaches before frosting them. HOME CANDY MAKING 463 ORANGE PEEL, CANDIED.— Use thick peel and cut it in thin strips, then boil it, frequently changing the water until there is no bitter taste in the water (don't be alarmed at the amount of boiling required); drain thoroughly, then put in a kettle with sugar only, in proportion of 1 cup to the peel of a dozen oranges. Set the kettle on the back of the stove, and stir occasionally while the sugar dis- solves and the peel becomes candied and dry. Keep in a glass jar. Used instead of raisins in cake it gives a daintily=flavored fruit cake. FRUITS AND NUTS. GREAT variety of fine fruits abound in our markets which in their season are ciieap and easily obtainable. They may be considered as luxuries, because no fruit is essential to life, but they aflPord a pleasing variety to bills of fare, and they possess some value in themselves. While most highly prized by the inhabitants of warm countries they are craved and procured by those of temperate climates, often even at much expense. Fruit may be profitably eaten at least once a day. The juice, consisting largely of watery solutions of acid and sugar, is the most enjoyable part, and those varieties containing the most juice with the least cell structure are the most highly prized. Although judged by their chemical composition their food value is not large,- fruits act beneficially on the system, when fully ripe and eaten in moderation, as they improve the appetite and promote a healthy condition of the vital organs. Nuts do not form a very important article of diet among any peo- ple with the exception of the cocoanut. Although judged solely by their chemical (Composition they should be very nutritious, they are difiicult of digestion and are valuable principally for the oil which they contain. The most wholesome and nutritious fruits are the bland varieties, like apples, grapes, pears, strawberries, and gooseberries, although the latter, as well as cur- rants and raspberries, are less wholesome than the others. Stone fruits are apt to disagree with the stomach, but the more watery, like peaches and large plums, are better than those which are smaller and drier, like apricots and damsons. Bananas are wholesome. The skin of fruits, and the cellular parts in general, are not readily digested. The pulp of oranges renders them heavy. Fruit may be eaten with a meal or on an empty stomach. The quantity which should be taken depends on the kind. A healthy person may now and then eat the bland, nutritious fruits, as freely as any other wholesome food, but, as a rule, he will gain most if he eats but little, and takes it regularly. Whatever fruit is eaten uncooked, must be fully ripe, but not over=ripe. When eaten with a meal, fruit promotes digestion by its gently irritating ef- fect on the mucous membrane of the stomach and intestine. For a laxative effect it is best eaten in the early morning before breakfast, or between meals. Among the laxative fruits may be mentioned oranges, figs, tamarinds, prunes, mulberries, dates, nectarines, apricots and plums. In the early morning an orange acts very decidedly as a laxative, sometimes amounting to a purgative, and may generally be relied on. Pomegranites, cranberries, blackberries, sumach berries, dewber- ries, raspberries, barberries, quinces, pears, wild cherries, and medlars are astrin- gent. Pomegranites are very astringent, and relieve a relaxed throat and uvula. Apples are correctives, useful in nausea and the vomiting of pregnancy; they at once relieve the nausea due to smoking. Grapes and raisins are nutritive and de- mulcent, and very grateful in the sick chamber. Among the fruits which act as diuretics are, grapes, peaches, strawberries, whortleberries, prickly pears, black currants and melon seeds. Lemons, limes, 4:64: FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 465 apples, gooseberries, red and white currants, pumpkins and melons are refriger- ants. Cooking removes much of the acidity from unripe fruit, and renders it lighter as well as more palatable. The acid of unripe fruit acts as an irritant poison, causing an excessive intestinal secretion with more or less irritation, and hence arises the resulting diarrhea. On the other hand, fruit which is over«ripe, in which fermentation has begun, frequently causes the same disorder, and should be equally avoided, although less easily avoided because the insidious beginning of decay is not easily recognized. The Acids in Fruit. — The pleasant flavor of many of the fruit sauces depends on blending the acids which fruits contain, with sugar, and much of the success of the various cooking operations in which they are used depends on the proper com- bination of these elements. If the acid was neutralized, as might easily be done with an alkali, the piquancy would be gone, and the product would taste insipid and flat. The aim, therefore, is not to wholly neutralize the acid, but merely to blend it agreeably with sweetening. FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. Fruit for the table should be selected with care, and choose only that which is ripe and perfect. In arranging it for the table there is an opportunity to display one's taste and ingenuity. The garnishing requires attention. Arrange the fruit tastefully on dishes, with leaves between and around it, as the contrast of brilliantly colored fruits with nicely arranged foliage is very charming. The double^ edged mallow, strawberry and vine leaves have a pleasing effect, and in winter the bay and laurel are sometimes used. For the breakfast table melons, oranges, and small fruits are generally served, but for the dinner table all fruits are served in their season. Serve whole fruit in a raised dish, blending the colors harmoniously, and mix m any pretty green leaves or vines. Arrange them conveniently for serving, and so that they will not fall out when moved. Have fruit fresh, and as cold as possible when served. That which has stood for some days in a warm room is not very tempting. Pounded ice is an agreeable addition to a dish of raspberries, straw- berries, or currants. Pound it in a clean cloth until it is almost as fine as snow, and then sj)read it over the berries. If sliced fruits or berries are sprinkled with sugar and allowed to stand 1 or 2 hours be- fore serving, they will be much improved. Grape scissors, a melon knife and fork, and nut crackers should always be put on the table if there are dishes of fruit requiring their use. There are many very attractive ways of preparing fresh fruits for desserts, etc., which we explain elsewhere, such as " Frozen Fruit,'' "Frosted or Iced Fruit," " Glaces."' " Cream= Coated Fruit," "Fruit Molds," "Fruit Ice Creams," etc., which the reader can readily refer to. 30 466 FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS APPLES. — Choose those which are not too sour, and which have a pleasant taste; wipe them clean, or polish brightly with a cloth, and mix together different colors, like red and yellow, piling them up on a dish when they are to be served at the table. APRICOTS. — These need only a few green leaves to garnish them. Pile them high on a glass or other dish. BANANAS. — These, if whole, should be piled on either high or low dishes, and high in the center, with bright green leaves to make them look pretty. They are often mixed in with oranges and grapes. Bananas make a delicious dessert if the skins are taken off, and they are cut crossways into thin slices, and then sugar and cream served on them. Or, after slicing them, sprinkle on sugar and add a little orange juice. Alternate layers of bananas and oranges (peeled and sliced) with sugar on each layer are very nice. It will be an im- provement to let the fruit get very cold, and cover with whipped cream when serving. Bananas and strawberries also go well to- gether. BERRIES. — Choose the freshest. It is better not to wash them unless they need it, but pick them over, hull them, spread a layer in a dish, sprinkle with sugar, then put in another layer of berries, and so on alternately. Set them in a cold place until ready to serve, and then put on a layer of crushed ice. If necessary to wash them, use cold water, wash a few at once, and then hull them, handling as little as need be. Do not stir them with a spoon nor drain them with a colander. Then sprinkle with' sugar and set away as before. Do not wash berries after being hulled, as more or less juice es- capes with the hulling, and the less they are then disturbed the better. It improves their appearance to garnish them with a border of green leaves. Blueberries, blackberries, huckle- berries, whortleberries, etc., are all served much the same way. The Whoetlebeeey is native to the north- ern parts of the world, and there are many varieties. The fruit contains about 11% water, bJ% sugar and l.Z% free acid. It is very whole- some. The Bluebeeby belongs to the same species as the bilberry, whortleberry, etc. WHOETLEBEEEY. FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 467 It is found in most northern countries. It is a very wholesome and palatable fruit, and its composition is about the same as the whortleberry. CHERRIES. — These can be piled in rows and high like a pyra- mid. They are also nice if kept in clusters. Then garnish with green leaves if convenient. COCOANUTS — -These can be grated and served with either cream or jelly as preferred, or both can be used; or serve them with jelly or jam. For whatever dish cocoanut is to be used it will be more digestible if put to soak for a time in any liquid, such as milk, etc., which is to form an ingredient of the dish. Adding a little lemon juice is also to be recommended. Vanilla and rose-water are favorite flavorings for dishes made from cocoanut. CURRANTS — When fully ripe these are delicious and attractive in appearance. Mix together the red and white on bunches, in alter- nate rows, with leaves bordering the outside; or pick them from the stem and sweeten them. They are delicious served with raspberries. They are nice crj^stallized or frosted. The method of preparing them is explained in our article on "Home Candy Making" (which see). DATES, FIGS, FRENCH PLUMS, ETC.— These are all served on small glass plates or oval dishes, piled high in the center. Gar- nish them with green leaves. QRAPE FRUIT OR SHADDOCK.— Peel in sections like the orange, remove the bitter white membrane cov- ering the sections, break open the pulp and serve. Sugar is sometimes added, and some- times it is sprinkled on and left for 1 or 2 hours or over night, but many prefer the fruit un- sweetened. This fruit is wholesome and re- freshing, and it deserves to be more highly appreciated, but by many the taste for it has to be acquired. RIPE FIQS — Peel and slice fresh figs, and serve with pulverized sugar and cream. gkape fkuit tbee. GOOSEBERRIES-.— These should be piled high, but need no other arrangement, except a few green leaves for decoration. GRAPES — Examine these carefully, and pick out all which are withered or unsound. Rinse them in cold water, Malagas especially. Have the bunches of medium size, dividing the large ones. They can be piled in a pyramid, with a few hanging over the side of the 468 FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS MANGO TBEE. dish. Different kinds mixed look well, by the contrast of colors, and their own or other green leaves can be placed at the edge of the dish. Divide the bunches with fruit scissors. THE QUAVA. — This is the fruit of a tree which grows in the tropics. It is an agreeable and whole- some fruit, its taste when quite ripe being not unlike that of strawberries and cream. The fruit is eaten raw, but is also made into jams and jellies. The rind is sometimes stewed with milk. The fruit is also eaten fresh with sugar and cream, and it can be preserved or canned like other fruit. THE MANGO. — The mango is a native of India, but grows in other tropical coun- tries. The fruit is finely flavored, sweet, cooling, and medicinal, especially if partaken of early in the morning, but it is too perisha- ble to transport to a distance. The unripe fruit is made into pickles often. MELONS. — These should be very cold when served, and are best kept on ice a few hours before serving. They may be cut in strips and piled up on a platter, or merely cut crossways. The ice should not be allowed to come in contact with the inside of the melon. Eat with a spoon or fork. They are eaten alone, or with salt, sugar or pepper, sprinkled on. CANTELOPES — Chill by keeping them on ice before serving; cut them in two, remove the seeds, and serve a half to each person. Serve salt with them. Eat with a spoon. THE MULBERRY.— This fruit although called a berry is in reality a spike. When to be vised as a dessert it should be freshly gathered and so ripe as to drop from the tree. It has a fine flavor and a sweet, sub=acid taste, and is succulent, sugary and rich. The fruit drops as soon as it is ripe and is eaten much like blackberries and raspberries which it resembles somewhat. It makes fine preserves. OLIVES — These can be most attractively served by draining them and putting them in a small fancy dish on a bed of broken ice, with a small silver fork in the dish. They are served at din- ders, lunches and suppers, and are placed on the table at the begin- FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 469 THE OLIVE. ning of the meal and are left until it is over. If they are too salt let them soak in cold water an hour before serving them. On taking them from the table put them in a bottle of slightly salted water, covering them completely to keep them from darkening in color. The Olive tree is a native of the south of Europe. The fruit is valuable in its ripe and unripe state. Unripe olives are pickled in various ways, being usually pickled in lime water which renders them softer and milder in taste. They are eaten to destroy the taste of viands pre- viously eaten, and to promote digestion. The well=known olive oil is obtained mainly from the external part of the ripe fruit. ORANGES.— These may be served whole, piled up like a pyr- amid or mixed in with bananas and grapes. If served whole they can be cut in two crossways, without peeling them; then eat with a spoon, sprinkling on sugar or not as preferred. Or they can be served cut in halves, and laid on green leaves; or with the peeling cut and rolled down. Or they can be peeled, divided into sections, the seeds taken out, and each one cut in 3 pieces with a silver knife; then sprinkle on sugar just before serving. In Havana a fork is run into the orange from the stem end, which serves as a handle; then with a sharp knife the peel is cut in strips and turned down from the top, and the orange is eaten, which leaves the fibrous pulp on the fork. THE MANQOSTAN OR MAN= QOSTEEN — This tree is a native of the tropical parts of Asia and Africa. The tree grows to about 20 feet in height, and it has a regular, tapering- form something like the fir. The fruit in size and shape resembles an orange. It is dark brown, spotted with yellow or gray, and it has a thick rind. The fruit is very juicy and deliciously fla- vored, and it may be eaten freely with perfect safety. It is one of the most delicious of fruits. PEACHES — These should have the fur wiped off, but any other garnish than a few green leaves is superfluous, as their own color is so rich. They make a beautiful center dish. Or they can be pared, sliced, granulated sugar sprinkled on, and served at once, MANGOSTAN OB MANGOSTEEN. 470 FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS PEBSIMMONB. and cream passed for them. Some people think it an improvement to grate nutmeg over sliced peaches. Try it. Or they can be frozen or frosted by the methods we explain in our articles on " Ice Cream " and " Candy Making," and made very attractive. The Nectarine can be treated like the peach of which it is only a variety. PEARS. — Wipe them with a cloth, and pile them high like a pyramid, with a few green leaves at the base. For eating, select line grained pears. PERSIMMONS — When dead ripe the skin will be so tough that the calix may be pulled out, and then the delicious contents may be taken out with a spoon, but it is very astringent unless fully ripe. The persimmons may be kept for some time by putting a layer of brown sugar in an earthen jar; then put in a layer of persimmons, then sugar, and so on with alternate layers; have sugar on top. Keep paper closely tied over the top. Pebsimmon is the fruit of the Diospyros virginiana. It grows in the Southern States, but is seldom found north of 40°. "When green the fruit is very astringent, but when ripe, or when mellowed by frost, it is sweet and luscious. By a course of cross fertalization and selection the Japanese are said to have brought this fruit to great perfection. PINEAPPLES. — A handsome center^piece is formed with a pine- apple surrounded with oranges and grapes. A pineapple may be pared, and then holding it by the tuft, use a sharp knife and start the fruit in thin slices and tear each piece from the hard central core; then cut them into small pieces, add sugar and allow it to stand in the refrigerator some time before serving, to form juice. Another way is to cut ofp the tuft, then cut the pineapple into quarters lengthwise; take out the hard core, and grate off the fruit until the rind is reached. Pineapple forms a good desert served with lady^fingers or slices of sponge cake in a row around the dish. The "strawberry" is considered the best, and the "sugar=loaf " next. It is also nice served in layers with cocoanut and oranges, with sugar between the layers; after preparing, set in the refrigerator till ready to serve. The rind of pineapple contains an acid which will make the lips and mouth sore if it gets on them; therefore, peel it with one knife, and slice it with a clean fresh one. Salt is used as an antidote for the acid if it gets on the lips. FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS 471 POMEGBANATE. POMEGRANATES.— Remove the skin, take out the seeds, and carefully remove all the thin brown skin separating the sections; mix the seeds with finely pounded ice on a pretty dish, and serve. PoMEGBANATE is native to Asia and probably Africa. It has never come into very extensive use in Europe or America. The pulp has a delicate, pleasant flavor, and its sub^acid juice makes it cooling and grate- ful in warm climates. The rind is very astringent (caused by the tannin it contains) and a decoction of it makes a good gargle for sore throat, and is good for diarrhea. The tree grows to a height of 15 or 20 feet. The pulp of the fruit is of a reddish hue and very refreshing. PLUMS. — Pile these in pyramidal form. A pretty effect is produced by adding sprays of nas- turtium leaves and blossoms. The Sloe is the parent of the plum. The leaves have been used to adulterate tea. The juice is sharp and astrin- gent, and the fruit, when ripe, makes good preserves. RAISINS — Serve only the choice varieties on the table like the loose "Muscatels" or layer raisins. sloe. They may be served with candy and nuts, or almonds are sometimes blanched and strewed over them. Raisins contain more sugar and less acid than fresh grapes, and so are more nutritious but less refrigerant. If eaten too freely they are apt to derange the di- gestive organs. RASPBERRIES. — If very large and fine they are sometimes piled in rows in pyramidal form. Otherwise merely pile them in the center of the dish with a few green creepers about the edge. Some people prefer them with little or no sugar. Or prepare them as directed for " Berries.'* STRAWBERRIES. — Put them in a pretty dish and garnish with some of their own green leaves. Large fine berries are served by the French without hulling; each one is taken by the hull and dipped in- to powdered sugar, which is passed with them, and then eaten, They are also nice put into a dish in alternate layers of berries and sugar; then whip together 2 cups cream, 1 cup of pulverized sugar and the whites of 3 eggs.; flavor with strawberry or orange juice, and put it on top of the berries. Another way is to put alternate layers of ber- ries and sugar in a dish; then take orange juice in the proportion of 3 oranges to 2 pints of berries, pour it over, and set the dish in a 472 FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS Sprinkle pounded ice on them just be- PBIOKLY PEAB. cool place for 1 or 2 hours, fore serving. PRICKLY PEAR — Out a slice off of each end, then peel it, and cut the pulp into slices. It can be sprinkled with powdered sugar and the juice of an orange squeezed on, or it can be eaten unseasoned. The Pbiokly Peae is the fruit of a species of cactus. It is of a purplish color and it is covered with spines so that it must be handled carefully, protecting the hand with a napkin. The fruit is freely eaten in Mexico and it is often imported from there. THE TAMARIND.— This tree is native to the West Indies, but is cultivated in warm climates. The tree grows to a height of about 40 feet. The pods are from 3 to 6 inches long and contain pulp and seeds. The pulp is juicy and acid. It contains citric, tartaric and malic acids, with potash, sugar etc. It makes a drink which is cool- ing and laxative. Tamarinds are best preserved by putting alternate layers of tamarinds and white sugar into a stone jar; cover with sugar and seal tight. NUTS. If served with the shells on nuts should be merely piled high in the center of the dish with or without green leaves around the edge. It is best to crack them, however, and serve them with salt. Nuts with a tough skin, like almonds, should be blanched. Almonds, Al- erts, Brazil=nuts, hickory-nuts aud walnuts, go well with raisins. Nut crackers should always be provided if any of the nuts are uncracked. Bbazil=nut8 are the seeds of a majestic and beautiful tree'which grows to a height of 100 to 120 feet. When fresh the fruit is agreeable. It contains a very large amount of oil. They are rather difficult of digestion. CHESTNUTS, ROASTED.— Wash the chestnuts, make a slit in the side of each one; boil 10 minutes in water enough to cover them; then drain and bake in a dripping pan for 10 minutes in a hot oven. Serve hot with salt. SUGARED ALMONDS. — Put into a sauce^pan ^ cup sugar and ^ cup boiling water; boil ^ hour, and add 1 cup blanched almonds; boil till the sugar grains (about 5 minutes) stirring constantly; then turn them on a buttered dish to cool. wiped. They are BEAZIL=NUT. DKIED FRUITS 473 For Glazed Almonds proceed the same way, but after the sugar grains cook until it begins to brown; then add ^ cup boiling water and cook until that evaporates and they are a dark brown; then spread them in a shallow pan, and dry them in the oven. SALTED ALMONDS — Shell, blanch and dry the almonds; allow 2 teaspoons butter for each cup of almonds; put these in a frying=pan or baking-dish and cook, with moderate heat, until the almonds are a delicate brown, stirring frequently — it will take about ^ hour. Then sprinkle with salt. Put them on at the begin- ning of the meal and serve them with the crack- ers and cheese. ALMOND TBEE. Peanuts can be salted the same way, first removing the shell and brown skin. Walnuts can be salted the same way also. DRIED FRUITS. Many people do not appreciate the value of dried fruit. A large part of the water evaporates when the fruit dries, and the nutritive portions are left in a more concentrated form. The percentage of nutritive elements in dried apples approaches that of bread, but one great drawback to the use of dried fruit is that as ordinarily dried many fruits lose much of their peculiar and delicate flavor. Many of the fruits are readily and easily dried and can thus be kept for future use. Cherries and peaches are (next to apples) about the best of the dried fruits. Fruits like apples, etc., can be dried by putting them on a kind of sieve4ike holder, and submitting them for 3^ hours to the action of a cold air blast. Thus dried they are superior to fruits dried by the sun or hot air. The new process of preparing fruit by evaporation has overcome many of the objections to the old fashioned dried fruit, and its sale has increased enormously. It is probable that the sale of evaporated fruit will in the near future partly or possibly largely supplant canned fruit in the market, as it possesses many advan- tages. It is healthful and its use desirable. Fruit which is to be dried should be ripe and sound. It should be spread in a single layer on boards or in shallow boxes. Insects may be kept away by covering it with mosquito netting. Keep it spread in the hot sun until it is fully dry. as indicated by its turning 474 DRIED FRUITS dark; never set it out in damp or cloudy weather, and always bring it in before sunset, to prevent the dew from falling on it. The oven is an excellent place to dry any fruit, as it dries more quickly, and is not so much exposed to insects; but do not let the oven become hot enough to scorch the fruit at all. Fruits are still further preserved often by the use of sugar, as in some of the recipes which follow. Keeping it — Dried fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place, away from the light, tightly tied in thick paper bags, or in closely covered jars. By turning it occasionally into a tin pan and setting it in a hot oven for a few minutes, and then tying it in the bags again, there will be no trouble with worms, but to reheat it thus, injures its flavor and makes it dark colored. Security against moths is secured by using paper sacks, tightly tied, or a box or barrel lined with paper. To avoid frequent opening of large packages it is best to keep a small quantity on hand in fruit jars. It is sometimes advised to scatter sassafras bark among dried fruit to keep away the worms; but its flavor will spoil the fruit for many people, so that it is better not to use it. To cook dried fruit let it soak a few hours, or over night, in soft water, and it will then need less boiling; then slip it carefully into an aluminum, earthen, granite or porcelain-lined sauce=pan, and cook it in the same water until done, thus keeping it in shape; it is best not to add the sugar for sweetening until about 5 minutes before taking it from the stove. Another good way is to drain the water off when soaked, add sugar to make a syrup, let it boil up, turn in the soaked fruit and cook until tender; it equals canned fruit when thus cooked. DRIED APPLES. — The apples should be pared, cut into slices, and dried in the sun or the oven as above explained. Pears and Quinces can be dried the same as apples. Apples, to Skin — By pouring scalding water on apples the skin may be easily slipped off and much labor in paring them saved. DRIED BLACKBERRIES.— The cheapest way to preserve them is to carefully dry them in the sun as you would apples. Thus pre- served they make excellent pies. Keep them in a dry, cool place. DRIED CHERRIES. — (1) Cherries may be put into a slow oven and thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. They should then be taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored away in a dry place. Particular care must be taken that the oven is not too hot. (2) Another method is to take the stones and stems from ripe cherries; spread them on flat dishes, and dry them in a warm oven or the hot sun; pour whatever juice may have run from DRIED FRUITS 475 them, a little at a time, over them; stir them about, that they may dry evenly. When they are perfectly dry, line boxes or jars with white paper, and pack them close, in layers; strew on a little brown sugar, fold thj paper over, and keep them in a dry place. (3) An- other plan for cherries is to take equal quantities of cherries and sugar; boil the sugar to a caramel; have the cherries stoned, throw them into the caramel, and let them cool. Then take them out and put them in a sieve to dry, in a slow oven, watching them carefully. DRIED CITRON.— Pare and quarter it, and boil it in water until it is clear, and so tender that a broom=straw will readily penetrate it; then have ready a syrup of sugar and water, drain the citron, and boil it in the syrup until the sugar permeates it; then dry it slowly, spread out on dishes, turning it occasionally, and sprinkling on powdered sugar several times. When sufficiently dried, pack it in alternate layers of citron and sugar, in boxes and jars. It can be used for cakes, etc. oitbon. The Citeon belongs to the same genus as the orange and lemon. It is a na- tive of India, but is cultivated in all orange=growing countries. It is aciduous, an- tiseptic, and antiscorbutic and has been recommended for chronic rheumatism, gout and scurvy. It is not unsuited for eating in its natural state, and the juice mixed with water and sweetened forms an excellent drink. The prepared rind or peel is much used for cooking and confectionery. DRIED CURRANTS. — Put alternate layers of currants and sugar in a jar, using 1 cup of sugar to each pound of currants; let stand until the next day and bring them to a boil, and boil ^ hour; skim them, and then dry in a slow oven or the sun, spreading them out on plates. They serve well in pudding or pies instead of raisins. Keep them in paper bags, or in stone crocks well covered, or pack them in sugar in glass jars. DRIED GOOSEBERRIES — (1) To 7 lbs. of red gooseberries, add 1^ lbs. powdered sugar, which must be strewed over them in the preserving pan; let them remain at a good heat over a slow fire until they begin to break; then remove them; repeat this process for 2 or 3 days; then take the gooseberries from the syrup, and spread them on sieves to dry. The syrup may be used for other purposes. When the gooseberries are quite dry, store them in tin boxes on layers of paper. (2) They are sometimes dried in a moderate oven or the Sim, without the sugar, as directed for cherries. Select firm, ripe fruit. 476 DKIED FRUITS DRIED PEACHES. — (1) Take free=stone peaches, cut in halves and place them on plates, hollow side up; fill the hollows with gran- ulated sugar, and place in a slow oven, or in the sun, if the weather is fine, until they are half dry; then pack them in glass jars, hollow side down; first a layer of dry sugar, then a layer of peaches mashed flat with the small end of a potato masher, then layers of sugar and fruit until the jar is full, having a layer of sugar on top. Screw on the covers, and keep in a cool, dry closet. (2) Another way is to put welhripened peaches in boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, — a whole bushel can be put in the boiler at once; then turn off the wa- ter and the skins can be more easily and quickly removed, they can be stoned easier, they will dry quicker, and are better when dried. Dry them, sprinkled with sugar, in a moderate oven or in the sun. (3) They can also be dried without removing the skins, but the fur should be well rubbed with a piece of flannel; then dry like apples. PEACH CHIPS.— Use 1 cup of sugar to each lb. of fruit; boil the sugar in water enough to dissolve it, until it becomes very thick; then put in the peaches, which should be peeled and sliced, and scald them well; then take them out with the skimmer and dry in the sun. When dry, pack closely in jars in layers, with powdered sugar be- tween each layer. The syrup left can be bottled, and used in pud- ding sauces, blanc manges, etc. The chips can be used in puddings instead of raisins. DRIED PINEAPPLE.— Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strew on it a plenty of powdered sugar; keep it in a very slow oven 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry; then put the pieces of pineapple on tins and place them in a quick oven for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper between each layer. DRIED PLUMS. — These need not be pared; rub the skin thor- oughly with a piece of flannel, and dry in the sun or an oven, like apples. DRIED WATERMELON RINDS.— These can be dried in the sun after being preserved, and they can be used instead of the imported citron for cakes and puddings, answering very well. The melon belongs to the gourd tribe. It has never been found in a wild state, but is supposed to be a native of the sub=tropical parts of Asia; it is properly the fruit of a hot climate. It was originally named the musk=melon. The water- melon although less sweet than the muskmelon is more juicy. There are many var- ieties, but all are wholesome. In their season melons are beneficial because of their action on the kidneys, but they should not be eaten unless of good quality and fully ripe. The composition of watermelon is 92^ water; 6% carbohydrates; 1% albnmen- oids; 0.7^ fat, and 0.3^ mineral matters. COOKED FRUITS 477 COOKED FRUITS. Baking, stewing and frying are the simplest and easiest ways of cooking fruit. Do not pare the fruit long before cooking it, or it will discolor by exposure to the air, and its delicate flavor will be im- paired. Cook it in aluminum, earthen or porcelain kettles, and use earthen dishes, silver or aluminum knives and wooden spoons, as iron or pewter spoons may cause discoloration. It is better not to prepare a great deal of stewed fruit at once, as it does not keep long. Only a little sugar is needed. Using Sugar. — Many cooks do not understand the use of sugar in cooKing fruit. The sugar in ordinary use is cane sugar, and is 2^ times as sweet as grape sugar, but is closely allied to it, as we have explained elsewhere. Cane sugar can be changed to grape sugar by cooking it with acids and thus its sweetening power will be reduced to that of grape sugar Some cooks put their sugar in with a mass of acid fruit to be cooked, and keep cooking and adding sugar as the mass gets sweeter until at last they use 2^ times as much sugar as they need to do, because the cane sugar becomes changed to grape sugar. If the sugar had been added after the fruit was cooked, much less would have been required, and the result would have been far more satisfac- tory. By bearing this in mind a large saving can be made in the use of sugar. Many people misapprehend the effect of sugar on the acids of fruits. Enough sugar can be added to disguise the taste of the acid, but it does not neutralize it as an alkali would do, nor does it effect any chemical change in the acid whatever. APPLE BUTTER — Boil new cider down |; then add an equal quantity of apples which have been pared, quartered and cored; boil until the apples are tender, and then sweeten with light brown sugar, and boil, with constant stirring, until it is reduced to a smooth buttery mass; spice to taste and put away in stone jars. If cooked properly, the spices can be omitted if desired, as the true apple flavor is preserved better without them. It is better if left slightly tart. FRIED APPLES. — Cut sour apples from the cores in small chunks — do not peel them — and put them in a frying=pan with the fat fried from 2 or 3 slices of salt pork ; sprinkle a little salt over them, cover tightly with a plate and place on the stove where they will cook slowly ^ hour. Serve as a sauce for nfeat at dinner. They are also good cold with bread and butter. 478 COOKED FKUITS BAKED APPLES. — Wash sour apples, wipe them dry, and re- move the cores; fill the holes with sugar, and add a little spice and a piece of butter on each apple ; put | cup of hot water in the pan and bake the apples until tender. Serve with sponge cake. If preferred, a little grated lemon peel can be mixed with the sugar instead of the spice and butter; baste often with the syrup as they bake. Baked apples served with or without flavored milk, are delicious. BAKED APPLES, No. 2.— Take tart apples, pare, quarter, and place them in a long, shallow pan, sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon and flour, dot with small pieces of butter, pour in a little water, and bake. Serve warm. Baked Apples and Oranges. — Take 6 good sweet apples; remove the blossom end, pare, and put in a baking=pan; sprinkle on 1 small cup sugar. Invert a pan over them, and bake until tender; let them cool in their own juice, then pile high in a glass fruit dish; pour the sweetened juice and pulp of 3 oranges over them, and sprinkle on the grated yellow rind. APPLE. BOILED APPLES.— Take 12 good whole apples; put them in a stew=pan and pour on 2 cups boiling water; boil until soft, and sweeten on taking them from the stove. Serve hot or cold — best cold. QLACED APPLES — Partially stew large whole apples; take them out and bake them. . Take the water in which they stewed add white sugar, and boil until it will form a soft candy when cool (about the "crack" degree). Arrange the baked apples on the dish in which they will be served, and pour the syrup over them hot. When cold, an amber coating of soft candy will have formed about each apple, which will add to its appearance and taste. APPLE MERINGUES. — Take 6 apples, peel, quarter and core them; set them over the fire in a sauce^paii, with 2 tablespoons of water, stirring occasionally until done; then mix 2 or 3 tablespoons of sugar with them, and arrange them into a mound in a silver or tin dish. Take the well-beaten whites of 3 eggs, and add 3 oz. pul- verized sugar;, spread | of this over and around the apples, smooth- ing it with a knife dipped in cold water; put the remainder in a pip- COOKED FRUITS 479 ing bag (see "Piping" in our article on "Frosting and Icing" in the chapter on " Cake") and decorate the dish according to taste, or put small knots here and there, over an4 around the dish. Dust with sugar, and put into a hot oven 20 or 25 minutes. Serve in the same dish. APPLE SAUCE — Select 12 sour apples, pare, core, and fill the holes with sugar; when cooked very soft, mash through a sieve into a small pudding dish, and add the grated rind of 1 lemon; beat the whites of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoons of white sugar; add it, and brown slightly. Eat cold Improved Apple Sauce. — Pare and core 10 tart apples and stew with as little water as possible; then add 1 cup powdered sugar; whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, add to the apples, and stir rapidly for a few minutes. Set aside to cool, and serve with sweet- ened cream flavored with lemon. It somewhat resembles ice cream, and makes a delicious dessert served with nice cake. Improved Apple Sauce No. 2. — Too sweet apples do not cook well. Cook the sliced apples, in barely water enough to cover them, until tender enough to mash easily through a colander; sweeten while warm, and season with rose-water, lemon juice and nutmeg. Lemon peel stewed with them adds a delicate flavor. CIDER APPLE SAUCE — Take 4 quarts of sweet apples, pared, quartered and cored; add 2 quarts of cider either sweet or boiled; cover with a plate, and boil slowly but steadily until the apples are cooked. DRIED APPLE SAUCE — Look over anc^ wash the apples, and let them soak over night in soft water; cook them next morning, slowly and without stirring, until they are tender; about 5 minutes before taking from the stove add sugar to sweeten; mash through a sieve, and flavor with cinnamon. Dried Peach Sauce can be made the same way, but do not mash it, and season it less. CRANBERRY SAUCE. — Pick over the berries, wash and scald them, and put on to stew over a moderate fire, adding 1 cup water for each pound of cranberries; cover, and stew slowly, stirring as little as possible. If bdiled hard, especially when first put on the stove, it is apt to separate the skin from the berry. Sweeten them to taste on taking them from the stove. Part of the acid can be extracted from the cranberries, so that less sugar will be needed to sweeten them, if they are allowed to stand first, for about 5 minutes, in boiling water; 480 COOKED FRUITS OEANBERBIES. then drain them out, and set them on to stew with fresh water, few raisins added to cranberries make a pleasant combination. Cranberry Sauce No. 2. — Take 3 cups water, 1 lb. of raisins, and 2 quarts of cranberries; boil until soft enough to sift easily; pass it through a sieve, add 2 cups sugar, and boil 10 minutes. If some of it is desired for immediate use pour it into a mold; can the re- mainder for future use. Or they can be cooked together, sweetened, and set aside to cool without be- ing put through the sieve. BANANAS, BAKED. — Peel the bananas, cut them in halves, and x)ut them in a shallow pan; for each banana allow 1 tablespoon of sugar and 1 teaspoon of hot water; melt a little butter in the hot water and pour it over the bananas; with the sugar mix a little salt and spice or lemon juice, sprinkle it on top, and bake in a quick oven till brown — about 20 minutes. BANANA TREE. FRIED BANANAS. -(1) Choose bananas which are not quite ripe (the "Plantain" being best); peel, slice, and drop them into a frying=pan containing smoking hot fat, about ^ inch deep; they will soon brown; then take them out and serve hot, sprinkled with pepper and salt, or, if for dessert, sprinkle with sugar instead. (2) Or peel, slice, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry to a delicate brown in a kettle of smoking hot fat; drain on a sieve or blotting paper and serve. The Banana grows almost everywhere in the tropics. It is really a variety of the plantain, and is very much like it. It is a nutritious food, and contains less water and more nitrogenous matter then most fresh fruits. It is always eaten ripe, and then contains much sugar, but little starch. A pound of bananas contains as much nutriment as H lbs. of potatoes, and there is every reason to encourage their more extensive use. DATE SAUCE. — Prepare dates for cooking as directed under "Cake." (1) Pare, core and quarter apples, and stew until nearly done; then add an equal quantity of dates and stew until tender, but no longer; sweeten to taste. (2) Another way is to pare and core apples, without quartering them, fill the center of each apple with dates, pour on a little hot water, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in the dish in which they are to be served; then cover with a meringue and bro.vn slightly in the oven. COOKED FRUITS 481 DRIED BERRIES, STEWED — To stew dried berries take about 1 quart of water to 1 pint of berries, and boil slowly and steadily ^ hour. Sweeten to taste. The various dried berries are cooked alike. Raspberries and blackberries mixed are nice, using the same amount of each. FIG SAUCE. — Scald and wash ^ lb. of nice figs; take every seed from ^ lb. of raisins, tearing them in two pieces as you seed them; cut the figs in very small pieces and mix with the raisins; add water enough to cover them, and steam 1 hour in a pudding dish. It makes a delicious sauce for tea, or dessert for dinner. GOOSEBERRY FOOL.— Take off the tops and stalks from 1 lb. of gooseberries and stew them with ^ cup sugar in ^ cup water; then pulp through a sieve. Whip 2 cups cream and beat into the pulp. ^^ ^^^ GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.— Put 1 quart of j^L^ M gooseberries with 1 lb. of sugar in a kettle and |^®L^^^^ boil until reduced to a pulp. When cold, place ^^^aWP^^fe in a dish, pour over it 1 quart boiled custard, and ■^f4,^X'°'°^^v cover with whipped cream. ^? ^J^ B^ The Goosebeeky belongs to the same order of plants .^^'^^ff^ as the red and black currants. It does not appear to have -^^ been known to the ancients. The name is by some thought 'P to be a corruption of the Saxon gorst (gorse=berry, mean- goosebebey. ing rough^berry). The skin is very indigestible. The acid is principally citric and malic. Red gooseberries contain more acid than the white, but when that is masked with sugar they are most wholesome. The red variety makes an excellent jelly which is light and refresh- ing, and is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and invalids generally who need light and digestible food, but it is not very nourishing. LEMON BUTTER.— Take the juice of 2 lemons and the grated rind of 1, 2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon of butter and 4 eggs; beat all well together, place over the fire, and stir until the consistency of honey. LEMON JELLY — Mix 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, and 1 grated lemon; boil until thick. PEACHES, TO SKIN — If peaches are dipped in boiling hot water for an instant the skins will readily slip off, saving labor in paring them. BAKED PEACHES — Choose those which are ripe, or nearly so, put them in a deep earthen dish, sprinkle on sugar, and bake until done, keeping them covered. PEACH BUTTER— (1) Take 1 gallon of sweet cider and boil 31 482 COOKED FRUITS it down one^half; into this put soft peaches, pared and cut into pieces, and boil, with frequent stirring, until they are reduced to a pulp; just before taking from the fire add sugar, if it is not sweet enough, and cloves and cinnamon to taste. Keep in tightly covered jars. (2) Take ripe peaches, pare and stone them, and put in a kettle; add a little water and boil them soft, and then pass through a colander. Then add 1^ cups of sugar to each pint of peaches, and boil slowly 1 hour, stirring often; do not let them burn. Keep in a cool place in stone or glass jars. FRIED PEACHES. — Take ripe, freestone peaches, cut them in two, remove the stones, and at once drop each half, the cut side down, into a frying=pan containing about ^ inch of smoking hot fat; as soon as they are a light brown, turn them over and fry the other side; as soon as heated through, transfer them to a hot platter. Serve them hot, the hollow side up, sprinkling on a little pulverized sugar. STEWED PEARS. — Cover medium sized pears with water, adding 4 to 6 ounces of sugar for each pint of water; cook in a slow oven until done — 1 or 2 hours or more according to ripeness. Take out, and when cold remove the cores, using a long cutter; reduce the syrup well; fill the interior of the pears with whipped cream flavored with vanilla and pour the syrup around them. Serve more whipped cream with them. For a change gelatine may be added to set the syrup; when cold, chop it, and pile around or over the fruit. Apples are also nice thus treated. BAKED PEARS.— Pare and core the pears without dividing; place them in a pan and fill the hole in each pear with brown sugar; add a little water and bake until per- fectly tender. Serve cold with cream or boiled custard. (2) Hard pears or "wind- falls " can be pared, quartered and cored, and put into a deep pudding dish; add 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar for each 2 quarts of pears; cover closely, and bake in a moderate oven — it will take several hours. They will peak. keep then indefinitely, if sealed in Mason jars as soon as they are done, and while still hot. Fruit that is often left on the ground to waste, may be saved thus and made useful. CHIPPED PEARS — Take pears not quite ripe; pare and core them, and cut into long, thin strips; to 8 lbs. of the fruit add 6 lbs. COOKED FRUITS 483 of sugar, the juice of 3 lemons and the rind cut into strips, 2 cups of water and 2 tablespoons of ginger; boil the whole until the fruit is transparent, and then bottle. The Peak belongs to the same order as the quince and the apple, and is one of the most valuable fruit trees of temperate climates; there are about 150 varie- ties, but none of them keep as well as apples. They are perfectly wholesome when ripe, but not when green, although they may then be stewed. A fermented liquor called perry is made from the pear. Its acid is tartaric principally. PLUM CHARLOTTE — Take 1 quart of ripe plums, stone, stew, and then sweeten them; place slices of bread and butter in the bot- tom and around the sides of a large bowl or deep dish, and pour in the plums, boiling hot; cover the bowl and set it away to cool gradu- ally. Send it to the table cold, and eat with cream. DAMSON SAUCE. — Take 6 lbs. ripe damsons, 1 quart cider vin- egar, 1^ lbs. sugar; boil until the damsons are soft, then take them out, mash them, put back into the syrup and boil from ^ to f hour, stirring them and watching that they do not stick to the kettle or burn. PRUNE SAUCE. — (1) Soak the prunes over night; in the morn- ing boil until they will slip from the stones easily; when used, slip them from the stones and serve with thick cream. (2) To 1 lb. prunes when put on to stew, add the juice and thin yellow rind of an orange; when done (when the stones are loose) sweeten with plenty of sugar. This sauce is excellent with rabbit, roast pig, kid, venison or fawn. STEWED PRUNES.— Select good prunes, wash them, and let soak 1 or 2 hours if dry and hard; then cover them with boiling water, cover closely, and boil until tender and swollen; then for each quart of prunes add 2 tablespoons of sugar, and boil a little more, but not long enough to break the skins. A little lemon juice may be added if they are deficient in flavor. Pkunes are simply dried plums. They are often used for their laxative effect by persons subject to habitual constipation. BAKED QUINCES. — Choose ripe quinces, wash and core them, fill the cavities with sugar, put in a baking pan with a little water and bake until soft. They are very fine if eaten with sugar and but- ter when hot. STEWED QUINCES. — Choose good quinces, and pare, quarter and core them; add sufficient water to ^ cover them, cover closely, and stew until tender; for each lb. of quinces add 1 cup of sugar, cover closely, and cook until a thick syrup. If ^ as many apples as quinces are used it makes a nice dish. 484 COOKED FRUITS RAISINE. — Take very ripe but quite sound grapes, squeeze the juice from them and boil until it is reduced a half. Peel and core some pears, quarter them, put them in this grape syrup, and boil till it is reduced a third. It may be made with unripe grapes, but then sugar must be added, allowing ^ lb. to each pint of grape juice. STEWED RHUBARB. — Peel it, cut into inch pieces, stew it un- til soft, and sweeten to taste. If very sour, it can be allowed to first stand 5 minutes in boiling water, then drain it out and put it in fresh water to stew. This extracts part of its acid, and less sugar is then needed to sweeten it. Rhubarb and green currants mixed to- gether, stewed, and sweetened to taste, make a pleasant sauce. RHUBARB BUTTER— To each pound of rhubarb, which is peeled and chopped, allow 2 cups sugar; let them simmer together until it is done. A Hint. — If equal quantities of rhubarb and any other kind of fruit are mixed together the rhubarb will soon taste exactly like the other fruit. Rhubabb is a native of Asia, and its introduction into Europe is of quite recent date. It belongs to the buck- wheat order. Although it cannot be eaten raw, when cooked it is uuch used. All kinds are best for culinary purposes when blanched. The stalks are sometimes partly blanched by putting a headless barrel over them and allowing them to grow up through it. Its food value is small, not J^ of its solid matter being nutritive. It contains about 2% of sugar, which is its chief nutritive element. Its sour taste is due to the presence of oxalic acid, of which it contains 0.3^. In some conditions of the body, rhubarb, sorrel, and other plants containing oxalic compounds, are best avoided. Oxalic acid is always and everywhere an irritant poison, but the amount in rhubarb is small. TAMARIND SAUCE — Fill a stone jar with thoroughly ripe tamarinds, and put into a cool oven until quite tender, adding during the stewing enough sugar, but not more than enough, to take away the extreme acidity of the fruit; then rub through a sieve. The tamarind sold in the markets is often adulter- ated with copper. Its presence may be detected by putting in a piece of polished iron or steel and leav- ing it for a while; if copper is present the metal will be coated red with it, TAMAKIND TBEE. TOMATO BUTTER — Scald the tomatoes, remove the skins, and add \ as much pared, cored and quartered apples as there are toma • toes; cook slowly, stirring often, till reduced to the consistency of COMPOTES 485 marmalade; when the apples begin to break, sweeten to taste with light brown sugar, and add the juice of 1 lemon and 1 teaspoon gin- ger, if desired, for each 6 lbs. of the fruit. COMPOTES. These are the French method of preparing the English stewed fruit. Compotes consist of any kind of fresh fruit, partly cooked in a syrup less strong than that used for preserves or jam, and are used the same day they are made. If enough sugar is allowed they will keep good for 2 or 3 days, in a cool place. If there is any sign of mold or fermentation, it may be checked on its first appearance by boiling the preparation a second time for 1 or 2 minutes. They are more economical and wholesome than pastry, and superior compotes can be served for dessert. They are much relished by persons who cannot eat raw fruit. They should be served in a glass dish with cake. The essential thing to remember in making compotes is that the fruit should not be cooked as thoroughly as when it is to be served as stewed fruit; it must not cook enough to lose either its form or color. After the fruit has simmered in the syrup, lift it out with a skimmer, arrange it in a glass dish (called a Compotier) boil the syrup a little, let it cool, and pour it over, straining it if it needs it. If an insufficient amount of sugar is used the syrup will not be clear and bright. Syrup for Compotes. — A good rule is to allow 3 cups of water for each lb. of sugar; boil it 15 minutes, removing the scum carefully as it rises; the syrup is then ready for use. Articles boiled in this will not keep long, it being suited only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately; more sugar must be added for syrup intended to keep. Also the kind of fruit and its ripeness will affect the amount of sugar needed. COMPOTE OF APPLES.— Select moderate sized apples; either pare, halve, and core them, or cook them whole if preferred; then add prepared syrup and let them simmer until tender, adding a little lemon juice; lift out the apples and boil the syrup a little to thicken it; cool it and pour it over the apples. Garnish it with strips of green angelica, candied citron, or a border of rice jelly or plain boiled rice, or put a slice of lemon on each apple. Pears, Peaches, Apricots, Bananas and other fruit may be prepared the same way, but it is best to stone peaches or apricots. 486 COMPOTES Oranges should be peeled and divided into sections without breaking the thin skin; then treat them as directed for apples. BANANA COMPOTE. — Peel and slice the bananas and place them in a dish (alternate layers of red and white bananas look nice), pour over them the hot syrup for compotes, let stand till cold, and serve with whipped cream. COMPOTE OF FIGS.— Dissolve i lb. of loaf sugar in 2 cups of water; add 1 lb. of dried figs, a little grated lemon rind, and stew all very gently for 2 hours. Have some sponge cake ready, cut into squares; lay a stewed fig on each square, add a little lemon juice to the syrup, which should be pretty thick, and pour it over the figs. Serve when cold with thick cream or wipped cream. It makes a dainty, cheap and wholesome dessert. A Compote of Green Figs can be made with 1| pints of green figs and 1 pint of the prepared syrup, and proceed as directed for a compote of apples. The Fig is a native of Persia, Asia Minor, etc. The common fig in its native land bears 2 crops a year. The figs of commerce come mainly from Turkey and the coun- tries bordering on the Mediterranean. The fruit contains about 57 per cent, of sugar, and is wholesome and nutritious, but the seeds are indigestible, and sometimes have an irri- ^jq teee and tant action on the bowels. fkuit. GOOSEBERRY COMPOTE.— Gooseberries for compote should not be very ripe; top and tail them, pour on some boiling water, then take them out and plunge them into cold water containing a little vinegar, which will assist in keeping the color good; then drain them, put them into the syrup, and proceed as directed for apples, being careful not to break their skins. RASPBERRY COMPOTE.— Use ripe fruit and allow just enough red currant juice to cover, or a little water may be mixed with it. Use a shallow dish, add a little granulated sugar to the currant juice and as soon as it boils put in the raspberries and cover; then remove from the fire, and when cold pour into a dish. This is delicious with puddings hot or cold, or with plain or frozen cream, and is also excellent iced. RHUBARB COMPOTE.— Cut the rhubarb into inch lengths, and boil it fast in plenty of water until soft; at once drain it from the water, put it in a dish and sprinkle on sugar (| lb. or so for each lb. of fruit) ; leave until cold, and there will be plenty of syrup. COMPOTES 487 STRAWBERRY COMPOTE.— Put alternate layers of strawber- ries and sugar in a stew=pan, add a gill of currant syrup for each lb. of fruit, shake it over the fire for a minute or two and then turn it out to cool. Flavor it if liked. JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, AND PRESERVES. X I /HESE include all those preparations of fresh fruit made with W I a sufficient quantity of sugar to prevent fermentation, with- '^X out the process of sealing them in cans or bottles while hot. They have been used from time immemorial under the name of sweetmeats or preserves. A goodly array of preserves and jellies in her store-closet will fill the heart of the thorough houses wife with great satisfaction, and although it is some work to make them she will know that they are pure and healthful, while often there is much uncertainty about those bought at the stores. GENEKAL SUGGESTIONS. The Fruit — Fruit intended for preservation should be gathered in dry weather, and, if possible, while the morning sun is on it; it will then have its finest flavor, and will keep better than when gathered at any other time. It should be used as soon as possible after it is gathered; if kept a short time, put it in a refrigerator or ice=house — in the latter it will keep fresh and plump for several days. Fruit that is dusty is not injured by being rinsed quickly in and out of cold water, but if gathered during or immediately after a rain the juice will be less rich and less full of flavor; if gathered in damp or foggy weather it will soon mildew, and so will be worthless unless used immediately, and boiled very thoroughly, when it can be made into jams or preserves that will keep, but they will be of inferior quality and doubtful wholesomeness. There is no greater mistake than to imagine that half -ripe or over^ripe fruit is good enough for preserves. The fruit should be free from dust, and any which is un- sound should be cast aside. Whatever fruit has been boiled should be finished up the same day, and never any kept over night. Quinces, pears, apples, etc., can be kept from turning dark by put- ting them in cold water as soon as pared, but it is better to cook them as soon as possible. The Sugar.^The best quality of sugar either white or brown will be found the cheapest in the end. For the more delicate kinds of preserves only the best sugar should be used. Jelly made from a bluish white sugar will not harden well. An inferior quality of 488 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 489 sugar is sometimes used for preserves or canned fruit, but when that is used they will spoil more easily, and will not look as well. If too little sugar is used the mixture will not keep, and it is false economy to try it. If too much sugar is used, on the other hand, the flavor of the fruit will be lost. Coarse brown sugar conceals the flavor of the fruit, and moist sugar lacks sweetening power. The water used for melting sugar should be pure, clear and entire- ly free from sediment, as any cloudiness will impair the clearness of the product, and in clear jellies this is objectionable. The Utensils Used. — The best vessels to use in cooking fruits for preserves or canning are aluminum, porcelaindined kettles or yellow ware dishes. Never use tin vessels, as the acid of the fruit acts on the tin and the poisonous acetate of lead is formed. To cook the fruit equally throughout, the vessel should be rather large in diameter and not too deep; if too much heaped the fruit will not cook evenly. Close fitting covers should be provided, and put on after the scum has done rising, so as to retain the flavor of the fruit with the steam. Wire sieves and iron pots destroy the flavor and should not be used. Copper or brass kettles should be scoured very bright with salt and vinegar before being used, and the fruit removed at once on taking it from the fire, but even then some of the poison- ous verdigris will be formed by the action of the acids on the metal. Porcelain=lined vessels are much better. Aluminum vessels are excellent to use, because the citric, malic and other acids found in fruits do not affect that metal. Fruit should be stirred with either an aluminum, silver or wood- en spoon — the latter is best. Iron, tin or pewter ones will spoil the color. The Pkinoiples Involved. — Although the sugar passes easily into the state of fermentation, and is in fact the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous stage of that process, it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sufficient to con- stitute a very strong syrup; hence syrups are used to preserve fruits and other vegetable substances from the changes they would undergo if left to themselves. Before sugar was in use honey was employed in preserving, but it is now replaced by sugar. In putting up juice or fruit, the object is to boil it with sugar to such a consistency that it will neither ferment nor mildew. In boiling most fruits, it is best to boil them in water first, and add the sugar when the fruit has become soft and the juice is drawn out. The first object in preserving fruit is to soften it by boiling in water, so that the sugar by which it is preserved may penetrate all through it, and so preserve it well. The more thor- oughly the skimming is done the clearer the preserves will be. Fruit jellies owe their jelly=like consistency to the presence of a sort of gum= like substance which they contain called pectose, or pectic acid. This substance, although soluble in fruit juice, when mixed with sugar, exposed to heat, and cooled, will coagulate. Although in appearance so much resembling gelatine, from a chemical standpoint it is entirely different, being nearly allied to gum, but it has about the same food value as the sugar with which it is mixed. . The pectose does not develop in fruit until it begins to ripen, but as soon as the fruit is over-ripe it 490 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. loses its gelatinizing property. For jellies, therefore, fruit should be gathered as soon as fully ripe, or just a little before. 0-ver«cooking jelly also destroys the gel- atinizing properties of the pectose. The chemical composition of the various preserves is simply the composition of the fruit juice and fruit itself, with the loss of a few volatile constituents, and the addition of cane sugar. Home-made preserves, jams, etc., when properly prepared and well made, are much superior to those which are sold in the market. Professor Sharpless says that " apple sauce is frequently pumpkin boiled with cider; that raspberry jam offered for sale is often sour, and that strawberry jam is frequently made from the refuse strawberries of the market." Putting in Jars and Keeping. — Put jellies, jams, and marmalades in small glasses, which will prevent the frequent opening necessary with large ones. The usual method has been to lay on top a piece of paper dipped in brandy or alcohol and cut to fit nicely, and then paint a larger piece with white of egg and tie it on over the other — some people tie on parchment. A much simpler and easier method for jellies is when they get cold to pour on melted parafine. It hardens almost immediately, and then a piece of brown paper can be tied on to keep out the dust. The parafine will lift ofp easily, and it can be washed, kept, and used again by remelting. If any of the preparations become candied, set the glasses in water and let it boil around them, which will remedy it. If jellies are put in wine bottles for exportation, put 1 tablespoon of alcohol in each bottle before sealing. Look over jellies the last of the summer, and reboil them if there are any indications of fermentation. The glasses or jars into which jams, preserves, etc., are put, should be perfectly dry, and the closet in which they are stored should be neither so warm that they ferment, nor so damp that they become moldy. Preventing Mold. — Jellies can be kept from molding by covering the top, when cool, with pulverized sugar, nlelted parafine, or oil, like salad or cotton seed. Mold. — Remember that mold is a low form of life (it is a plant) and a certain amount of moisture is necessary to its growth. Its seeds are so small that they penetrate the tiniest crack, and the mold spreads readily frona one thing to anoth- er. If specks of mold appear, the plant can be killed by putting the jars in a well=heated oven, or by putting them in a pan of water and letting it boil around them. Its presence is always an injury, detracting from both the wholesomeness and flavor of the article it attacks. Keep jellies, jams, etc., in a dark, cool, dry closet. Paste on the side of each glass a little strip of paper bearing the name of its con- tents. If glass jars are used for preserves, wrap 2 or 3 thicknesses of paper around each one, which will exclude the light and keep them from bleaching. Coloring. — The only coloring suitable for any fruit preparation is JELLIES 491 some vegetable color, like those we give for " Frostings " in our chapter on " Cakes," but they should be used sparingly. JELLIES. These are made with clear fruit juice and sugar, the usual rule being to mix them in equal proportions. As, owing to the change in its pectose, fruit will not make jelly when it is over=ripe, it should be gathered for this purpose just as it turns ripe. If you wish clear, firm jelly, do not make it in damp or rainy weather. When a sweet fruit, like the pear, etc., is used in making jelly, add some very sour apple juice — say about half; or for strawberries use red currant juice. Alone, the sweet fruits do not make good jel- ly because they lack pectose — the substance which causes fruit juice to jelly. Gelatine is sometimes added with cherries and some other fruits; allow a package to each ^ gallon of juice when it is used. Grapes are unreliable. Crab apples jelly readily. Combining 2 fruits, like | currants to ^ raspberries, improves the flavor of jams and jellies. Another excellent combination for jelly is ^ apple juice to I peach juice. A delightful jelly is made from swamp huckleber- ies or low blackberries. Barberries, currants, apples, grapes and quinces all jelly well. Damsons make an excellent jelly. To Make Jelly. — In making jellies cut large fruit into small pieces; add water enough to prevent the fruit from burning — apples and quinces need just enough water to cover them, and currants less; cover the kettle and boil slowly until the fruit is soft. Then put both fruit and juice into the jelly bag, and allow it to drip, setting it in a warm place. Toward the last, squeeze the bag gently with the hand, or use 2 spoons, but do not be too anxious to squeeze out all the juice, as the more you squeeze it the cloudier you will make the jelly.* Measure the juice, and the general rule is to allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice, but quinces need only | lb. sugar to each lb. of juice. Now put the juice on the stove, bring it to a boil, and continue to boil without being covered, until done — 20 minutes being the rule for most fruits; skim frequently, as the more perfect the skimming the clearer the jelly will be; do not boil it too hard. Have *Note. — Squeezing all the juice out of the bag makes the jelly cloudy; if it is not squeezed, much of the contents of the bag is often wasted. To prevent the waste some housewives use the juice which will drip through without squeezing, and make a clear jelly for table use. The balance they squeeze out, and with it they make a second quality of jelly to use for cake, puddings, sauces, etc. It is good, but not so clear. 492 JELLIES the sugar ready heated (heat it in the oven wnile the juice is boiling, stirring it frequently from the bottom), and now drop it into the boiling juice, stirring constantly. Let it just come to a boil, and put at once into the jelly glasses; or another plan is to have a heated pitcher ready, with a piece of cheese cloth wet in hot water spread over the top. Pour the jelly, a dipperful at a time, through the strainer into the pitcher, and then turn it from the pitcher into the glasses, and set away to cool. The jelly glasses can be standing ready in a pan of hot water; take them out, drain, and turn in the jelly. In making jelly it should boil neither too long nor too short a time; if it boils too long a time it will be discolored and its flavor in- jured; if insufficiently boiled it will not keep well. The longer it boils the darker it becomes. If the juice is very watery, and the effort is made to evaporate the water by long boiling, the gelatiniz- ing property is destroyed, and it becomes gummy and will not jelly. To Test Jelly. — There are various ways: (1) Drop a little into cold water or on a cold plate, stirring it for a few seconds, and if it coagu- lates it is done; or (2) let 1 or 2 drops fall from the skimmer into a glass of cold water; if it reaches the bottom a solid drop of jelly, with- out dissolving in the water, it is done ; or ( 3 ) dip the skimmer in and out, holding it sideways over the jelly; if it runs off in only one place it is not cooked enough; if it runs around the skimmer and drijjs off in 2 or 3 places in wide thick drops, it is done. Hardening Jelly. — Jelly which is not quite as firm as desired can be shrunk by setting the glasses in the sun. To prevent breaking the glasses w-hen pouring in the hot jelly, sev- eral plans are in use. One plan is to rub the glass over on the out- side with lard or butter, and then pour in the first 1 or 2 spoonfuls slowly. Another is to stand the glasses while being filled on a folded towel wet with cold water. Another plan is to put a silver spoon in the jar; but the folded towel is the best plan. Jelly bags should be made of white flannel, and wrung out of hot water, to prevent their absorbing too much of the juice. Tie the top of the bag closely when the liquor is all in, to prevent the flavor from evaporating, A wooden frame on which to tie the jelly bag while it is dripping, is a convenience. Use the bags for nothing but making jelly. Waste nothing when making jellies; the pulp can be put up as marmalade for tarts and cake fillings. To remove jelly from a glass, dip it into hot water for an instant; then take it out, and the jelly will come out easily and whole. The prevention of mold, keeping jellies, etc., are discussed in the pre- ceding "General Suggestions" (which see). JELLIES 493 APPLE JELLY. — Use good, sour apples; slice them thin, seeds, skins and all ; let them simmer with only the addition of a little water, until well cooked and soft; strain, add 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice, and finish as directed previously for making jelly. If desired, a little lemon flavor can be added. PLUM AND APPLE JELLY can be made by using 1 part plum juice to 2 parts sour apple juice, and finishing like other jelly. It is very good. CRAB APPLE JELLY — Cut them into pieces, but do not pare or remove the seeds; boil until soft in a jar set in hot water, adding barely water enough to cover them ; mash them, drain off the juice without squeezing; use 1 lb. sugar for each pint of juice, and finish as before directed. A little lemon juice can be added for flavor if desired; or a little stick cinnamon boiled with the juice and taken out before putting in the sugar, is good. The pulp and juice which remain can be made into marmalade. Add more water and cook to'a pulp ; strain through a sieve to remove skin, cores and seeds. Add brown sugar to the pulp, pound for pound. It needs careful watching and stirring to prevent burning. DRIED APPLE JELLY — Boil the dried apples until tender, strain through the jelly bag, and allow f lb. sugar to the pint of juice; adding a little lemon juice will improve the flavor; then finish like other jellies. BLACKBERRY JELLY — Choose berries which are under rather than over ripe; the wild berries are best. Cook till soft, adding very little water; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice. Finish like other jellies. Raspberry and Strawberry Jellies are made just the same way. RED CURRANT JELLY. — Choose good, ripe currants; pick them over, but do not stem them; wash, drain and mash them in a porcelain kettle; it will darken the jelly to heat them now; use a wooden masher; drain over night in the jelly bag, but do not squeeze it. Use 1 pint sugar to 1 pint 'juice; boil and finish as directed for jellies. After putting in the hot sugar, let it boil till it thickens when exposed to the air on the spoon (which will be in 3 to 5 minutes) and then put it into the glasses immediately. A second grade of jelly, not so clear, can be. made by squeezing the remaining juice out of the currants, and finishing it like jelly. Various Jellies. — A very nice jelly is made by using red and white currants in equal parts. A raspberry and currant jelly can be made 494 JELLIES by using 1 part red currants and 2 parts red raspberries. It is very fine. A wild cherry and currant jelly can be made by stewing 2 parts wild cherries (stones and all) and 1 part red currants. White currant jelly can also be made like other currant jellies. CHERRY JELLY.— Pick the fruit (Morellos are best) when not quite ripe ; wash and put on the stove in cold water with the pits in J let it simmer (not boil) until the cherries are white and tender; strain through the jelly bag, allow 1 pint sugar to 2 pints juice, and cook briskly until done. Cooks sometimes add \ part of red currant juice, but cherry jelly can be made without it. Leave the pits in because a large part of the pectose is in the pits. CRANBERRY JELLY. Pick over the cranberries care- fully, and put 2 cups water in 2 quarts of cranberries; let boil, stirring occasionally, until soft enough to mash; strain, and fin- ish like other jellies. Use 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. The Ckanbeeey is nearly related to the bilberry. The species are all natives of cold countries, and grow well on swampy land. The fruit is too acid to be eaten raw, but has a very pleasant taste when cooked. The juice contains malic and citric acid. QUAVA JELLY.— ^Take ripe guavas, pare, quarter, and drop the sections into cold water. Simmer them till tender in water enough to nearly cover them; strain, hanging the bags up to drain all night, but do not squeeze them; boil the juice 1 hour, uncovered, skim, and add white sugar, using 1 scant pint to each pint of juice. Let simmer till the jelly is clear, add lemon br lime juice to taste, and let simmer ^ hour more, skimming frequently. Pour into jars and seal- when cold. Guava jelly can be made from any species of guava, and it is known the world over as one of the most delicious of all conserves. CKANBEEEY. 1. MEXICAN GUAVA. 2. WEST INDIAN GUAVA. JELLIES 4^5 GOOSEBERRY JELLY.— Take full=grown, but not quite ripe gooseberries; cover with water and boil until they are soft; strain the juice, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice; finish like other jelly. GRAPE JELLY. — Isabella, Concord or Clinton grapes are best to use; have them freshly picked, and finish as directed for other jellies, using 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. GREEN GRAPE JELLY — Use green grapes; wash, stem, and cook till soft with a very little water; mash with a wooden pestle, strain through the jelly bag, and allow If lbs. sugar to each pint of juice. Finish like other jelly. It makes the nicest jelly there is to go with poultry and game, and is superior to ripe grape jelly. MANGO JELLY. — Make as directed for guava jelly, only peel the mangoes, stone them, and throw them, before being cooked, into a very weak solution of lime or lemon juice. PEACH JELLY — Use 1 part very sour apple juice to 2 parts peach juice, and make like other jellies. Equal parts are sometimes used. A little lemon juice is sometimes added. Pear Jelly can be made the same as peach jelly. PLUM JELLY. — Choose the common blue plums, wash them, cook until soft in a porcelain kettle, adding 1 cup water to each 2 quarts plums ; then drain through the jelly bag, and finish like other jellies. Damson Jelly is made the same way. The Plum has been cultivated from ancient times, and the first fine varieties were probably introduced into Europe from the East, the Damson or Damascene taking its name from Damascus. When perfectly ripe the best varieties are wholesome. Some varieties are too astringent, though by ^^.y^arjaa. baking they loose much of their bad qualities, and are used in tarts and preserves, but they should be used with moderation. If eaten unripe, they are almost sure to cause diarrhea. They are not very rich in sugar, but contain much pectose or vegetable jelly, which gives them their gelatinizing quality. QUINCE JELLY — Cut the quinces into small pieces, and put them, skin, seeds and all, into a preserving kettle (a large part of the pectose is found in the seeds); cover with water and boil till soft; mash, and drain in the .jelly bag over night; allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice, and boil to the jelly degree. The pulp of the quinces, left after making the jelly, can be rubbed through a fine colander, 496 MARMALADES and, using as much sugar as pulp, boil them together for marmalade. Another plan is to use the best portions of the fruit for canning or preserves, and make jelly with the hard parts, cores and skin, and this works well. Sour apple juice is sometimes mixed with quince juice, RHUBARB JELLY — Cut the rhubarb into pieces about 1 inch long, but do not peel it; cook it to a soft pulp in water enough to cover it; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice; finish like other jelly. Apple and rhubarb mixed together, and finished like other jellies, is very nice; flavor it with lemon. WILD PLUM JELLY.— Gather wild plums just before they ripen; use 7 pints of water to 5 pints of plums, and boil until they fall to pieces; then strain through the jelly bag; allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice, and boil rapidly to the jelly degree. They make very nice jelly. Some cooks boil the plums with water until they burst, and then throw it away because of its bitterness; then boil the plums again in water to cover them until they fall to pieces; then finish as above. The pulp remaining can be made into a good marmalade by using the pulp and sugar pound for pound. TUTTI FRUTTl JELLY — Use equal quantities of red currants, red raspberries, strawberries and morello cherries; stone the latter carefully saving all the juice; mix together all the fruit and squeeze it well; after straining through the jelly bag, allow 2 lbs. sugar to each pint of juice, and finish like other jelly. MARMALADES. These are made from the pulp of fruit boiled with sugar. If marmalade is made at the same time with jelly, the pulp left from the jelly can be used and waste prevented. Rub the pulp through a sieve, and for acid fruits the rule is to allow equal weights of sugar and pulp; sweet fruits need a little less. If too much sugar is used the sides and tops of the vessels containing the marmalade will be covered with a coating of sugar, and it will candy or crystallize; fermentation will take place if too little sugar is used, or the boiling is insufficient. The rule is to boil slowly ^ to | hour, with frequent stirring to prevent burning. To Test Both Marmalade and Jam let a spoon of it cool on a plate,- it will be done if it looks glittering and dry, and neither moisture nor juice collects on it. MARMALADES 497 If the sugar is not added until tlie fruit is mashed and cooked, less boiling will be needed, and the marmalade will be better and smoother. When done, put it in glasses as explained in the pre- ceeding " General Suggestions." Keep in a cool, dry place. The term marmalade is derived from the Portuguese marmelo, meaning a quince, to which it was first applied; but it has come to be applied to similar preparations of any fruit. Marmalades are very wholesome, and serve to stimulate the appetite. GRAPE MARMALADE. grapes, but put the skins OONOOBD GEAPES. -Pulp the and pulp together into the preserving kettle and let boil. When the skins are tender let cool until you can work the mass through a fine colander. Wash the kettle and return the strained grapes, set over the fire, and add the same measure of sugar as there is of the grape. Let boil 5 minutes, and put hot into jelly tumblers. If the grapes are not quite ripe the marmalade will be more firm. ORANGE MARMALADE Pare the yellow rind carefully off the oranges; remove the thick white rind and squeeze the pulp through a sieve; add ^ cup of water to 4 lbs. fruit, and set on to boil; add the yellow parings of the rind, cut into pieces, and boil ^ hour, or until the rind is soft; the juice, pulp and yellow peel of a lemon can be added if liked; add 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, boil a few minutes and put into jelly glasses. Rhubarb can be added instead of 'the lemon if desired; use 1 quart of sliced rhubarb for 6 oranges and boil with them. It makes a fine combination and gives a variety. PEACH MARMALADE — Choose fine, ripe peaches; pare, stone and cut them up; add a very little water and cook in the farina boiler until reduced to a pulp; pass through a colander and allow f lb. sugar to each lb. of pulp; put it on the stove and boil until it will jelly, or until it will drop from the spoon in clots. Stir it from the bottom with a wooden spoon all the time it is on the fire to pre- vent burning. When done, seal in jars. Apricots, Apples, Pears, Quinces, and other Fruits can be prepared in the same way. 32 498 MARMALADES PLUM MARMALADE — Stone the plums, and put in the ket- tle with a very little water, boil till the fruit softens, and then mash to a pulp with a wooden pestle; do not take it from the stove, but add 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. of pulp, and boil 15 or 20 minutes longer; then put it in jars. QUINCE MARMALADE.— Pare, core and slice the quinces; put the seeds, cores and skins in the kettle, add barely enough water to cover them, and boil sloivly ^ hour; strain through cloth, and when nearly cold add it to the quinces in the farina boiler and boil until it is reduced to a smooth paste, mashing and stirring the quinces with a wooden spoon; if the flavor is desired the juice of 2 oranges can be added to each 3 lbs of pulp; now add f lb. sugar to each pound of fruit, and boil 10 minutes longer, stirring continually. Then put in jars. No. 2. — Quinces which are not good enough to be utilized in other ways can be used; wash, core, but do not pare them, and cut into pieces; add 1 teacup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil slowly, mashing and stirring with a wooden spoon until soft; add f lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp; boil them to- gether for 5 or 10 minutes, strain through a colander and put in jelly glasses. Sour Apples or Crab Apples can be put up in like manner! ^^^^^^^ The Quince is a native of India, whence it was intro- duced to Greece. The ancients preserved it in honey, or sweet wine reduced }4 by boiling. It makes a fine marmalade and a little added to apple pie im- proves the flavor. RASPBERRY MARMALADE.— Either use the raspberries alone, or add 1 cup of red currant juice to each 2 lbs. fruit; boil 30 minutes, mashing and stirring well with a wooden spoon; add f lb. sugar to every pound of fruit, and cook 20 minutes more. Blackberry Marmalade can be made the same way, but without any currant juice. RHUBARB MARMALADE.— Cut the rhubarb into pieces 1 or 2 inches long; to each 1^ lbs. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. sugar, -J of a lemon peel cut thin, and ^ oz, of bitter almonds blanched and divided. Boil all well together and put up like other marmalades. STRAWBERRY MARMALADE OR JAM. -Allow 5 lbs. sugar and 1 lb. currants to 6 lbs. strawberries; mash the currants in the preserving pan with 1 cup water, put it on the stove and boil; then FRUIT CHEESES 499 add the strawberries (which should be picked over), then press and rub them into an earthenware pan through a fine sieve. Let the sugar boil to the consistency of thick molasses, add the fruit pulp, and boil briskly, with constant stirring, for 20 minutes. Skim it, and put into jars. TOMATO MARMALADE.— First scald, peel and slice the tomatoes; allow 2 lbs. sugar to 1 lb. tomatoes, and boil them down together until well thickened; then add 1 tablespoon powdered gin- ger, and the juice and peel of 2 lemons, for every 3 lbs. of tomatoes. Boil about 3 hours, skimming off the froth that rises; when very thick put in jars. VEGETABLE MARROW MARMALADE.— Pare and core the marrow, cut in thin slices, add 12 oz. of sugar for each pound of marrow and let stand all night; then bring to a boil, stirring con- stantly, and cook till almost soft; turn into a bowl and when cold add 2 good tablespoons of orange or lemon marmalade for every pound of marrow used; put back on stove, stir to the boil and sim- mer until it sets. VEGETABLE MAKBOW. FRUIT CHEESES. Fruit cheeses are somewhat like marmalades, and they are gen- erally used for desserts. Stone fruits, like plums, quinces, etc., make the best. The method is usually to boil the fruit until it is soft enough to pass through a sieve, and then the pulp is boiled with sugar until it will solidify when cold. Cherries are often used, and gooseberries sometimes. APRICOT CHEESE.— Wipe apricots, cut them into pieces, and take equal quanti- ties by weight of apricots and sugar; wipe the inside of the preserving pan with fine salad oil, put in the fruit, and boil it to a pulp, stirring all the time: add the sugar, continue to stir, and boil sharply till it is a golden brown; it will cling to the spoon when done, and leave the pan clear. Pour apeicots. it into small molds and cover. It takes about 6 hours to make. Some people blanch and shred the kernels, and add them. 500 FRUIT PASTES The Apbicot is a native of Armenia, and belongs to the same species as the plum. Its delicious fruit much resembles the peach. It only keeps a short time, and is either eaten fresh or is made into preserves or jelly. It has sometimes been condemned for its laxative qualities, but this may have been caused by eating the fruit when unripe, or in too great quantities. Delicate persons should use a lib- eral quantity of powdered sugar with them if they eat them uncooked. The ker- nels are sometimes used for the same purposes as almonds. Apricots contain rather less water, and more sugar and pectine than peaches. ALMACK CHEESE — Split 4 doz. plums, and take out the stones; pare, core, and slice 2 doz. pears and 2 doz. apples; put the whole in layers into a stone jar, and put them into a cool oven; when suffi- ciently tender press them through a coarse sieve into a preserving pan, and stir in 1 lb. of sugar to every pound of fruit. Stir them over a moderate fire until very firm. Cut into slices after it has be- come sufficiently cool. QUINCE CHEESE.— This is simply marmalade which has been boiled down very thick, and put into little jars. It will be as solid as cheese when turned out, and it can be served for tea or luncheon, cut into slices like cheese. PLUM CHEESE — Add enough water to keep from burning, and boil the plums; now mash them, strain, and add ^ lb. good brown sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil down until thick, with continual stirring, and put in small jars. It will turn out firm as cheese, and can be served for tea or luncheon cut in slices. FRUIT PASTES. These are a kind of marmalade, consisting of the pulp of fruits, first evaporated to a proper consistency, and then boiled with sugar. The mixture is then poured into a mold, or spread on sheets of tin, and afterwards dried in the oven or on the stove until it assumes the form of a paste. Strips may be cut from one of these sheets and formed into any shape desired. Use only fine white sugar for these pastes. Use a wooden spoon to stir them with, and watch them care- fully, as, if they burn in cooking it will spoil them. The cakes can be cut up and kept in tin or paper boxes with layers of paper be- tween; they are fine with desserts. APRICOT PASTE. — Use ripe apricots; put them in a preserving pan with a little sugar, and place them on the side of the range to re- duce them to a paste; rub them through a hair sieve, allow ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil it 10 minutes; then finish like apple paste. FRUIT PASTES 501 APPLE PASTE. — Choose sound ripe apples, peel, core them, and cook in a little water till quite soft; rub them through a hair sieve, using a wooden spoon; weigh the pulp and put it in the preserving pan, with the same weight of sugar, and boil 20 minutes; remove it, spread out thin on plates or in molds, and dry in a cool oven or on a cool stove. If desired it can be colored with some of the vegetable colors elsewhere given. The Apple belongs to the rose order. The cultivated varieties have sprung from the wild apple or crab. This de- lightful fruit is made very wholesome by baking or boiling. _ The acid is mainly malic. The hard, acid kinds are unwhole- ^pp^E ^j^jj blossom. some if eaten raw, but by cooking a great deal of their acid is decomposed and converted into sugar. A large part of its acid is turned to sugar as the fruit ripens, or even after it is gathered, by the process of maturation. When apples decay, the sugar is changed to a bitter principle, and the gum be- comes moldy and offensive. Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the effects of the apple when eaten with it, probably from the volatile alkali or ammo- nia of the cheese neutralizing the acid. CURRANT PASTE — Take red or white currants, pick them over carefully, rub through a sieve, and put the mashed fruit in a pan on the fire, stirring it until it forms a paste; allow 1^ lbs. sugar for 1 lb. pulp, mix them together, and boil 20 minutes. Finish like other paste. ORANGE PASTE — Press the juice out of 5 Seville oranges, and boil them until the rinds are very soft indeed; with a thin wooden or silver spoon scoop out all the puljD, and pound the rinds as fine as possible in a mortar with f the extracted juice. Rub it all through a hair sieve, and simmer on the fire until it becomes like marmalade. Empty it out, weigh it, and allow 2 lbs. sugar for 1 lb. pulp; boil it 10 minutes, and spread out and dry like apple paste. Lemon Paste can be made the same way, but do not use any of the juice. PEACH PASTE. — Cut the peaches into small pieces, and cook, with barely enough water to cover them, until reduced to a pulp; allow ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil 20 minutes; finish like other paste. PLUM PASTE — Any kind of preserving plums will do; stone them and boil, with very little water, to a jam; rub through a hair sieve, put on the stove, and reduce to a paste; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and cook 20 minutes; finish like other paste. RASPBERRY PASTE. — Take 2 quarts of ripe red raspberries, put them in an eathern jar and place it in a kettle of boiling water; 502 JAMS boil until the juice is well separated, then pulp them through a fine colander. Mix with the fruit an equal weight of sugar, put it in a sauce-pan, and cook until it is a firm paste — stirring constantly to prevent burning; spread on plates to nearly dry in the oven, then cut it in squares, cover both sides well with pulverized sugar, and pack in paper boxes with layers of white paper between. Strawberry Paste can be made the same way. JAMS. These are made with large fruit cut into small pieces, or with whole small fruits. In making common jams the fruit should be well boiled before the sugar is added, and care should be taken that it is not so much thickened that the sugar will not easily dissolve. The old rule was equal amounts of fruit and sugar, but acid fruits re- quire more sugar than those which are sweet. If they burn at all in cooking the flavor is spoiled; to prevent this close attention is needed and constant stirring. Jam will not keep well unless sufficiently boiled, and enough sugar is used, but do not use too much sugar. As jams and preserves made from stone fruits are apt to ferment, care should be taken to get rid of the moisture, and only enough water added in cooking to simply prevent burning. In the "General Suggestions" previously given we explain about putting jams into glasses or jars when done. The hardening of fruit is discussed under "Preserves," but mashing also prevents hardening. APPLE JAM — Pare, core and slice the apples; boil them till soft, add I lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit, and cook till done. A fine flavor will be imparted by tying in muslin a little lemon peel, ginger and cloves and boiling it with the fruit; take it out when the jam is done. APPLE GINGER. (Imitation of Preserved Ginger). — Boil to a syrup 3 oz. of ginger, 3 lbs. of sugar, the juice and ^ the rind of a lemon and 1^ pints of water; take out the rind and add 3 lbs. of ap- ples pared, cored, and cut into irregular strips to imitate ginger; boil 50 or 60 minutes. They should not break and should be soft and clear; there will be a good supply of syrup. Put in jars when cold. BLACKBERRY JAM.— Take 5 lbs. of fruit, mash it, and boil 10 minutes; then add 7 lbs. sugar, and boil 20 minutes, stirring to keep from burning. Put into the glasses hot; tie up when cold. JAMS 503 CHERRY JAM — Before stoning the cherries, weigh them, and to 1 lb. cherries allow ^ lb. sugar; then stone them and boil until the juice is nearly evaporated, stirring constantly; then add the sugar and add also 1 pint of red currant juice for each 6 lbs. of cherries used, and add also 1 lb. sugar for each pint of currant juice used; then finish like other jams. RED CURRANT JAM.— Pick over the currants carefully, and allow f lb. sugar to each pound fruit; let them simmer in the farina boiler until soft; then set aside until next morning, and cook them gently in a porcelain kettle 25 minutes; then put into glasses. White Currant and Barberry Jam can be made the same way, but for barberries allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. berries. GOOSEBERRY JAM.— Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to turn; stem, wash and weigh them; to 4 lbs. of fruit add ^ teacup of water, boil until soft, then add 4 lbs sugar, and boil until clear. The jam will be clear and amber^colored if the fruit is picked at the right stage, and much nicer if it is not picked until fully ripe. GRAPE JAM. — Allow f lb. sugar to 1 lb. grapes; squeeze the pulp from the skin; boil the pulp a few minutes and remove the seeds by passing through a sieve; then add the skins and sugar, boil until it thickens, and put up like other jam. Green Grape Jam is made the same way. ORANGE JAM. — Sweet oranges are best; remove the rind and then the seeds by passing it through a colander or sieve; to 1 lb. pulp and juice allow 1 lb. sugar; boil 10 minutes, add the sugar and cook till done; put up like other jams. PINEAPPLE JAM — Pare it, cut in small pieces, and cook in just enough water to cover until tender. Allow f lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit;- make the sugar into a syrup, add the pineapple and boil 10 minutes; then put up like other jams. Pineapple Parings. — After the fruit has been trimmed for making jams, etc., wash the peel in warm water, dry it, put it in a sauce=pan, add cold water to cover, and simmer ^ hour, or so; then strain the liquid, boil it with sugar, and it can be served with puddings, etc.; or if essence of pineapple is added when cold it will serve for ices, sweet sauces for puddings and the like. PLUM JAM. — Allow f lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit before it is stoned; then take out the stones and stew the fruit in a little water till soft ; pass it through a coarse sieve, add the sugar, and cook till done. Put up like other jam. 504 JAMS QUINCE JAM — Cook any desired amount of quinces until soft, in as little water as possible without burnina^; pour off the water and rub the fruit with a wooden spoon until smooth; add 10 oz. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, let it boil 20 minutes, and remove it from the fire, put up like other jams. RASPBERRY JAM — Mash the berries, and treat as directed for strawberries. If 2 parts raspberries and 1 part red currants are mixed it makes a fine jam, or add a little currant juice. RHUBARB JAM — Allow 1 lb. sugar for 1 lb. rhubarb; cut up the fruit into small pieces, put on the sugar, and let it stand several hours, or until next morning; then take out the fruit, and boil the syrup until it thickens; then put in the fruit and let it simmer gently until done, stirring it to prevent its burning; then put in glasses. STRAWBERRY JAM — Hull the berries, put them over the fire, and boil gently | hour, keeping them constantly stirred; allow f lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; remove the berries from the fire, add the sugar, and then boil them again ^ hour. Then put in jars as before directed. The Stbawbeeey was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and is indi- genous in all temperate climates. It does not contain much nutritive matter, but is very wholesome. The seed= like pericarps are not easy of digestion and sometimes cause intestinal irritation en which account some physi- cians have recommended passing them through muslin before being eaten. They have more water in their com- position than gooseberries or currants, and they are cooling, laxative, and slighly diuretic. Some epicures grate the zest of an orange over them, thinking it improves the taste, especially when a little sugar is added also. TOMATO JAM.— Use equal weights of sugar and tomatoes; peel and slice them, add the sugar and let simmei^ gently until done, which should be in about an hour. A pleasant flavor may be im- parted by tying lemon peel and ginger in a muslin bag, and letting it cook with the fruit, lifting it out when that is cooked. VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.— Peel and core 6 lbs. of medium sized vegetable marrows cut into strijas about 2 inches long; cover it with 6 lbs. of sugar and let stand all night; then add the juice and grated rind of 4 lemons and 1 oz. of bruised ginger and boil 1^ hours, skimming well. A pinch of cayenne is considered an improvement by some cooks. , — &3T^ — r: Jwggj... CHOCOLATE CREAM SAVORY JELLY TUTT) rmtn cream MARBttO JELUV PRESERVES 505 PRESERVES. The fruit used for preserves should be perfectly sound, fresh and ripe, and use good sugar. If you would have good preserves work carefully. A very large amount is less easily handled than less. The old rule of pound for pound of sugar and fruit is hardly reliable, because fruits differ so much in sweetness. If too much sugar is used the fruit may be unpleasantly sweet, and very little of the fruit flavor left. Cooking the Fruit. — Large fruits should cook until a broom straw will readily pierce them. To avoid burning, boil them gently. They must be soft enough to be readily penetrated by the sugar (as that is what preserves them) but that is all. Over boiling is to be avoided, and small fruit especially, like strawberries and raspberries, are spoiled if much cooked. The object aimed at is to have the sugar thoroughly permeate the fruit enough to preserve it, but without injuring its shape more than necessary. Fruit is darkened in color and its flavor injured by long boiling. Small fruits and berries should be taken out of the syrup, when done, with a small strainer, as a cup will not separate the syrup from them. When the fruit has simmered in the syrup until done quite through, it may be taken out with a skimmer and set on dishes to cool; then boil up the syrup until it begins to jelly, put back the fruit, boil it up once, and then put it into jars. Another way is to put the fruit directly into jars instead of on dishes to cool; then boil the syrup and pour it over, and tie up as directed in the " General Suggestions" at the beginning of this section. Either method works well. Hardening Fruit — Those fruits like strawberries, tomatoes, peach- es, apples, etc., which are liable in cooking to become too soft, can be allowed to stand a few hours with sugar on them, or pour on hot syrup; this hardens them by extracting the juice. There are some fruits like citrons, quinces, pineapples, etc., which harden if put into strong syrup at first; to avoid this they can be cooked first in water or weak syrup until tender, and then the balance of the sugar added. Canned Fruit can be used in making preserves, and then less sugar is needed. Adding a few slices of lemon or orange will improve the flavor. Keeping Preserves. — Preserves keep better in glass than in earth- enware vessels, but glass should be wrapped in paper to keep the light from bleaching the fruit; keep in a cool, dark, dry place. 506 PRESEEVES To Clarify and Prepare Syrup. — A good syrup can be made with 2 pints granulated or loaf sugar, and 2 cups water; put them in a porcelain kettle, and stir in the white of 1 egg beaten light but not dry; bring it slowly to a boil, stirring frequently, and then at once move to the back of the range, cover it, and let it simmer gently, not boil rapidly, for \ hour; then take off the cover and remove the cake of thick white scum appearing on top. The syrup will be clear and ready for use. White of egg, being albumen, coagulates at 160°, and as it rises to the surface it acts like a strainer, carrying the impurities with it; hard boiling breaks it into small grains, and it does not strain well. Small fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, currants, etc., put into this syrup will retain their form, color, and their fresh and natural taste. Juicy fruits require a rich syrup, like the above, but dry fruits which require long cooking need a thinner syrup made of equal parts of water and sugar. Graining. — A little acid added to syrup will prevent graining, as explained for candy making. TABLE SHOWING THE TIME TO BOIL AND THE AMOUNT OF SUGAK NEEDED FOE VARIOUS FEUITS IN MAKING PRESERVES. NAME OF FRUIT. Apples, sour, quartered . Apples, sour, whole . . . '. Blackberries Blueberries Cherries Crab^apples, whole . . . . Currants, ripe. Grapes, wild Peaches, halved Peaches, whole Pears, small sour, whole Pears, Bartlett, halved. Pineapples, sliced Plums Quinces, quartered . . . . Raspberries Rhubarb, sliced Strawberries Tomatoes Whortleberries TIME TO BOIL IN MINUTES. SUGAR NEEDED FOR EACH QUART OF FRUIT. 10 6 ounces 30 6 6 (moderately) 5 6 4 a 5 (moderately) 25 6 8 6 8 10 8 8 8 15 8 30 8 20 6 15 6 10 (moderately) 25 8 10 6 (moderately) 10 4 10 8 (moderately) 20 8 8 5 4 APPLE PRESERVES — Choose firm, welhflavored apples, and proceed as directed for quinces. They can be improved by adding PRESEEVES 507 the juice of 1 lemon to each 1^ lbs. of apples; or cut up and add a little quince. PRESERVED APRICOTS — Stone and pare 1 lb. of the finest apricots, put them into a preserving pan, and dust on some double refined sugar; have ready and add 1 cup of the juice of white currants, pressed out of raw berries; 1^ lbs. loaf sugar, putting in half of it first, and adding the balance at 2 different times during the cooking. Boil them over a slow fire, and when done put them up, putting 2 or 3 in a glass; be careful not to break them in the skim- ming. A little more boiling makes it jam. CRAB APPLE PRESERVES.— The red Siberian crab is the best. Pick out those nearly perfect, leaving the stems on; put them in the preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover them, heat this to boiling slowly, and simmer until the skins break. Drain and skin them; then with a pen^knife extract the cores through the blos- som ends. Weigh them, allow 1^ lbs. sugar and a gill of water to every pound of fruit. Boil the water and sugar together until the scum ceases to rise, put in the fruit, cover the kettle, and simmer until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- mer, spread upon dishes to cool and harden; add to the syrup the juice of 1 lemon to 3 lbs. fruit, and boil until clear and rich. Fill jars f full with apples, pour in the syrup, and when cool, tie up. BARBERRY PRESERVES— Use 1 lb. sugar and 1 cup water to 1 lb. of barberries; prepare the syrup and put in the barberries, let them cook until the syrup is quite thick, which will probably be in about 2 hours. Then put them up in jars with enough syrup to keep them. The rest of the syrup can be strained, put in bottles, and corked tight, and it can be used to make a delightful and a refreshing drink. The Baebebky is found in most parts of the world. Its fruit is cooling, astringent, and very acid. The juice, mixed baebekbies. with water, makes a refreshing fever drink. The bright red berries, alternating with parsley, are a very pretty garnish for white meats. BLACKBERRY PRESERVES — Choose the best berries, pick them over, and allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. berries; let them stand for 1 or 2 hours spread on dishes with the sugar sprinkled on; then put them on the stove in a porcelain kettle, adding all the juice which came from them, and heat slightly. Now take them out, putting them on the plates, and boil the syrup for 5 minutes rapidly; then 508 PRESERVES put back the berries, and let them simmer ( not boil) ; if they show a tendency to break, take them from the stove at once. Oool them slightly, and put in jelly glasses. Currants and Dewberries are put up the same way PRESERVED CHERRIES. — Select short-stemmed red cherries, or Morelloes, as sweet cherries are not suitable for preserving. Stone them, and save every drop of the. juice; allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound of fruit; first put in a layer of sugar, then a layer of fruit, and so on until all are put in; let them stand 2 or 3 hours, pour over "the juice, and boil gently until the syrup begins to thicken; then put in jars. Adding 3 tablespoons of red currant juice to each lb. of fruit is an improvement. Currants may be put up the same way. White currants make fine preserves. CITRON MELON. — Pare and cut the melons into small pieces about ^ inch square. Put in a porcelain kettle; cover with water and boil until tender, but not to break; then put them in a cloth strainer and hang up to drain over night. The next day weigh the melon, and with an equal weight of granulated sugar make enough syrup to cover the melon, then boil gently until the melon is clear. By this time the syrup will have become quite thick. Set away in the kettle to stand over night, or until it is cooled through. Allow 4 lemons to every pound of the preserves. Squeeze and strain the lemon juice on to the preserves,' and with the hand lift and gently mix all together, being careful not to break the cubes of melon. Put cold into glass jars; place a few cloves, from which the heads have been taken, on the top of each jar; screw the cover on tightly, and put in a dark, cool place. It must be a month old before using. This is a delicious sweetmeat. Be sure that the lemons are not bitter. CITRON PRESERVES.— These should be made as late in the season as possible, when the melons are ripest. After paring, cut into fancy shapes, but nbt too small. Cook till tender, in just water enough to cover, with a large spoonful of al- um added. Drain the pieces well, and then cook ^ hour in the preserving syrup, with the juice of sev- eral lemons added, omitting the rind, as it is apt to impart a bitter taste. In a few weeks this citron may be taken from the syrup, drained, dipped in powdered sugar, and dried on plates in the sun, when it is very nice for cake, to add to its flavor and beauty. PEESERVES 509 If this is to be done on a large scale, however, the pieces of citron should be quite large for convenience. CRANBERRY PRESERVES.— Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound of berries; make a strong syrup by adding water, using only enough water to dissolve the sugar; put in the fruit boil until tender, and put into glasses. PRESERVED BLACK CURRANTS.— Pick over the currants and cook till all are broken. Add ^ as much sugar (measured) as you have fruit. Cook ^ hour longer and seal. This is excellent for sore throat. FIQ PRESERVES..— Gather the fruit when fully ripe but not cracked open; place it in a perforated tin bucket or wire screen, and dip it for a moment in a deep kettle of lye, hot and moderately strong (some prefer to let them lay an hour in limewater, draining them afterwards ) . Allow 1 lb. of sugar to 1 lb. figs, make it into a syrup; drain the figs, put them in, and boil until well cooked; skim out the figs and boil down the syrup until there is just enough to cover the figs; put the figs back in the syrup, let all boil, put into glasses while hot, and seal. QREEN FIQ PRESERVES.— Lay the figs in cold water for 24 hours; then simmer them until tender; put them again in cold water, and let them remain 2 days, changing the water each day. Then if you do not find them soft, give them another simmer and put them again into cold water until the next day. Then take 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, and with | of it make a syrup and simmer the figs in it for 10 minutes. In 2 days take the remaining ^ of the sugar and pour the syrup from the figs on it. Make a rich syrup, adding the peel of a lemon and a little raw ginger, and boil the figs in it; then mix all together and put into large jam-pots and tie them closely over. The figs may be cut in half if preferred, after they have simmered until soft. TOMATO FIQS. — These, although made from tomatoes, will nearly approach true figs, and will keep as long as desired. Select good tomatoes, scald, skin them, and allow 1| lbs. best brown sugar to each 4 lbs. tomatoes. Let them simmer gently in the sugar until they cook clear, and the sugar permeates them thoroughly (add no water), and then take them out and dry them, spread on dishes in the sun; while they are drying sprinkle a little syrup on them. Pack them in layers with sugar between, in boxes or jars. While drying- do not let rain or dew fall on them. 510 PKESERVES GREEN GINGER PRESERVES.— Put the ginger for 2 weeks every niglit and morning into boiling water; then pare ofp the outside skin with a sharp knife. Boil it in water till quite soft, and slice it into thin slices. Prepare a syrup of 1 lb. sugar to ^ pint water, clar- ify it, put in the ginger, and boil till it is clear. Let it cool before putting it in jars. MOCK GINGER PRESERVES.— Boil small tender carrots, scrape them until free of all spots, and cut out the heart or middle portion. Steep them for several days in frequently changed water, until the flavor of the carrot has been completely destroyed. Allow 1 quart of water, 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. whole ginger, and the thin peel (yellow only) of 1 lemon to each pound of prepared carrots. Boil ^ hour daily until the carrots are transparent. When done, add enough red pepper to make the preserves as hot as desired. GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES — Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound of gooseberries; top and tail them, and put the berries and .sugar into a deep jar in alternate layers; pour on enough red currant juice to dissolve the sugar and add the same weight of sugar; cook it next day in the preserving pan, and put it in glasses. GRAPE PRESERVES — Pick from the stem, wash, drain, and weigh, and allow an equal weight of sugar; then press the skin from the pulp with the thumb and finger, and cook the pulp gently; when the seeds loosen pass it through a sieve to remove them. Then put the skins into the juice, cover, and simmer gently until tender; add the sugar, keep it hot, without boiling, 15 minutes, and can. Gkapes of all varieties are mostly natives of tropical and seini=tropical regions. Some varieties are dried and sold as rai- sins and currants. Fresh, ripe grapes, contain much sugar, sometimes nearly 20^ and the acid is chiefly tartaric, part of which is combined with potash. All grapes are nutritive and sultana gkape. wholesome, but they are subject to fermentations, and when eat- en immoderately sometimes bring on colic. In moderation they may be safely eaten even by invalids, and are refrigerant, diuretic and laxative. GREEN GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES.— Top, tail and wash the gooseberries in cold water, and drain; then pour on boiling water and let stand a few minutes to scald; this will soften them and extract part of their acid; when tender, take them out with a skimmer and slip them into cold water, leave a few minutes and take out with the skimmer, and slide carefully into the syrup; have the syrup made with 3 cups water and 1^ lbs. sugar for each lb. of gooseberries; let PRESERVES 511 them simmer slowly in the syrup until quite clear — about 20 min- utes; if they seem likely to break take them out sooner with the skimmer, and let the syrup boil a little longer; put them in the jars, and when cold pour on the syrup, and tie up. GREENGAGE PRESERVES.— Prick the plums with a fine needle to prevent their breaking, put them into a preserving pan with only enough water to cover them, and set them over a gentle fire until the water simmers; then take them out and set them on a sieve to drain. 'Add to the water in which the plums were boiled 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil it quickly, skimming it as the scum rises, until the syrup thickens on the spoon; then put in the plums, let them boil until the sugar bubbles, and pour the whole into a ba- sin; let it stand until the next day. Drain the syrup from the fruit, boil it up quickly, and pour it over the plums. Repeat this 4 days, which cooks the fruit without injuring the shape; then boil it in the syrup for 5 or 6 minutes, put into jars, and pour the syrup over. The kernels must be blanched and boiled with the fruit. Damsons can be put up the same way. Geeengages are a variety of plum, although not the largest in size; for deli- cacy and richness of flavor they are unsurpassed, and are generally esteemed as one of the finest varieties. The name is derived from the Gage family who intro- duced them into England. HUCKLEBERRY PRESERVES.— Use | lb. of sugar and the juice of half a lemon to each lb. of huckleberries; put half the sugar on the berries, and let stand a few hours or over night; then drain ofP the juice, add 1 cup water, the lemon juice, and the balance of the sugar; set it on the stove till the sugar dissolves, boil quick- ^'"'^^ f\ ly, and skim; then put in the '\ *\ ' . v"/' berries and let it simmer \ ' , - "^"Z a / / merely until they are tender '»^ \ ''i',-'!" '^t j'li''\^!i •* — about I hour; then take . ■ ^ M ' ' V' " them out, put in jars and when cold, pour on the syrup and tie up. Bilberries can be preserved the same way. The Bilbeeby is found in the northern parts of the world, and it belongs to the same species as the whortleberry. Its composition and properties are about the same, and bilbeeey. it is very wholesome. 512 PKESERVES PRESERVED LEMONS — Pare off the thin yellow skin care- fully, cut a small hole in the end, scoop out the pulp carefully with a silver spoon, rub each one with salt and drop it into clear cold water as fast as finished, which will prevent its turning dark; let them lie in it 5 or 6 days, and then boil them in fresh salt and water 15 min- utes. Have ready made a thin syrup of 1 quart of water to 1 lb. sugar; drain, and boil them in this for 5 minutes, and repeat once a day for 4 or 5 days; then put them in jars with the syrup and let them stand 6 or 8 weeks, as that will make them clear and plump; then take them out of the syrup. Make a fresh syrup of double refined sugar, with only enough water to moisten it; boil and skim it, put in the lemons, and let them simmer slowly until they are clear. Put them in small jars, covered as previously directed, and tie them up tight. MULBERRY PRESERVES.— Put about 1 lb. of mulberries into a preserving pan with ^ cup water to prevent burning; simmer slowly over a slow fire until all the mulberries are soft; strain through a fine sieve, and add 5 lbs. of sugar to each 4 cups of juice. Put the sugar into the preserving pan, pour the strained juice on it, boil up, and skim it well. Then add 4 lbs. of ripe mulberries, and let them stand in the syrup until warm; then boil them slowly for about ^ hour, and turn them ,,^^!vP!W /-^V^ out carefully into a china bowl until the next ' "^^olMlNAiwTViili I > day; then repeat the boiling \ hour, or until the syrup is thick and will jelly when cold. Put into jelly glasses, set away to cool, and then tie up. Care must be taken not to break the mulberries when boiling. The MuiiBEBBY is a tree of which there are many varieties. The black is cultivated for its fruit, and the white for its leaves on which silkworms feed. The black is a native of Persia. Some varieties attain a height of only 15 feet, and others grow to 45 mulbeeey. or 50 feet. The fruit is wholesome, cooling and rather laxative, but when eaten to any large extent it is apt to disorder the stomach and bowels. , MUSKMELONS — Choose ripe muskmelons, remove the seeds, peel, cut in pieces, put into a stone jar, and cover with scalding vinegar; let them stand until the next day, pour off the vinegar, heat it, and pour on them again; repeat this every day for 4 days. To each. 5 lbs. of fruit allow 1 quart of vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and spices to suit; put all together, and simmer until the melons are tender; then set aside, and the second day pour off the syrup, and boil it down so there will be just enough to cover the melons. Then put in glasses. PRESERVES 513 PRESERVED ORANGES.— Select very ripe oranges, cut a small hole in the stalk end, and scoop out the pulp with a silver spoon very clean, and be careful not to break the rind; save all the juice by holding the orange over a bowl while scooping it out, and drop each one into a basin of cold water as fast as done; then drain them, put into a porcelain kettle, and pour on enough boiling water to cover them, having dissolved in it 1 teaspoon of alum to each ^ gallon of water; let them simmer gently in this solution until almost trans- parent and clear; now drain them, put into cold water, change it 2 or 8 times, and let them stand until next morning, then drain again, pour on boiling water to cover, and again gently simmer for 1^ hours, and drain them; now allow 1 lb. of sugar and 1 cup water for each pound of the rinds, and make the sugar and water into a syrup; then put in the oranges, together with the juice which was saved, and gently simmer until they are clear and tender; then take them out, lay them on dishes to dry, and set away 2 days, and the syrup also. Now take 4 fresh oranges for each 1 which is being preserved, cut them in two, extract the juice, and allow 1^ lbs. sugar to each pint of it. Put this sugar and juice on the fire, and as soon as the sugar dissolves, boil it quickly to a thick jelly, which should be in about 20 minutes; test it and it will be done if a teaspoon of it hardens at once when set in a saucer in a cool place. Now put this jelly into the or- anges, filling them full, and let it harden until the next morning. Then put them in glasses with the open end down, and pour on the first syrup, and tie them up. They will be found a delicious pre- serve. Lemons and Limes can be put up in the same manner. Preserved Oranges No. 2. — Select good oranges and boil them in soft water until you can run a broom straw through the skin. Allow f lb. sugar for 1 lb. oranges, make it into a syrup, and clarify it; then drain the oranges from the water, pour on the hot syrup, and let them stand in it over night. Boil them in the syrup the next day until it is thick and clear; then put them in jars, pour the strained syrup on them, and tie up. ORANGE AND RHUBARB PRESERVES.— Take 6 oranges and carefully peel ofp the thin yellow rind; remove the white rind and the seeds, and slice the pulp into a preserving pan, adding the yellow rind cut very fine. Add 1 quart of rhubarb cut fine, and 1 lb. to 1^ lbs sugar, and boil the whole down and put up like any other pre- serves. PEACH PRESERVES — Select fine ripe peaches; pare, halve and stone them; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, and put a layer of 514 PKESERVES sugar in the kettle, then a layer of peaches, and so on alternately un- til all is used. Cover and let it stand until the next morning; then bring to a boil quickly, and let it simmer merely, until the fruit is clear and tender. Blanch and add 4 peach kernels for each pound of fruit, for flavor, when it begins to boil. Then lift out the fruit carefully, and put it into glasses; boil the syrup until thick (about 15 minutes) and pour it over. Apricots and Nectarines can be put up in the same way. Pears can be put up in like manner, but they should be pared; leave the stems on, and if small put them up whole. Add no peach kernels for pears, apricots or nectarines. PRESERVING PEACHES WITHOUT COOKING.— Brush the down from the peaches, and put them into a deep dish; pour enough boiling water on to cover them, and lay a thickly = folded towel over the dish, and let it stand until the water is nearly cold; then take out the peaches one by one and rub off the skins with a coarse towel. Then put a layer of sugar in a jar, then a layer of peaches, cover them thickly with sugar, and so on alternately, having sugar on top. Close and seal them down at once, and keep in a cool, dry place. Removing the skins by the use of hot water as above directed, is much easier than paring them. PRESERVED PEARS.— If large, they can be pared and quar- tered; if small, they can be pared and put up whole. Allow equal weights of fruit and sugar; make the sugar into a syrup, using 1 cup of water to the pound; when clear, put in the fruit and heat it through; then take it out and cool it; then put it back and cook un- til soft, and then put in jars. A clove stuck in the end of each pear before cooking imparts a pleasant flavor. Some people stew a few slices of lemon peel in the syrup for flavoring. PRESERVED PINEAPPLE.— Pare off the rough outside care- fully, that nothing be lost, and slice the fruit; put it in a preserviiv;- pan, add 1 teacup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil gently until it is tender and clear; then take it out with a skimmer, add 1 lb. of sugar to 1 lb. of fruit, stir imtil it is dissolved, then put in the pineapple and let it boil gently until it is transparent throughout; then take out the fruit, cool it, and put it into glass jars. Let the syrup simmer gently until it is thick and rich, and when nearly cool pour it over the fruit, and the next day seal up the jars. Pineapple is often put directly into the syrup without first boiling in water, but it is then tougher and not so good. See " Pineapple Jam " for a way to utilize the parings. PRESEEVES 515 PRESERVED PLUMS.— (1) Weigh them and allow 1 lb, sugar to 1 lb. plums; put a layer of sugar in a stone jar, then a layer of plums, and so on alternately until all are in, finishing with sugar; now put them in a moderate oven, and leave them until the oven cools, or put them in at tea=time, and let them stay all night; then boil and clarify the juice, after straining it from the plums; put the fruit in glasses, pour on the hot syrup, and tie up. (2) Another way is to allow I lb. sugar to each pound of fruit. Divide the plums, take out the stones, and put them on a dish with sugar strewed over; the next day put them into a preserving pan and lot them sim- mer gently over a nice fire for about 30 minutes ; plums. then boil them quickly, removing the scum as it rises, and keep them constantly stirred, or the fruit will stick to the bottom of the pan. Crack the stones, and add the kernels to the preserves when it boils. Then put up like other preserves. The Plum appears to have been introduced into Europe from the East where it has been cultivated from very ancient times. It is now extensively cultivated and is a very useful fruit. When perfectly ripe the best plums are wholesome, but some varieties are too astringent. They lose much of their bad qualities in cook- ing, but they should be eaten in moderation. They make good preserves. PUMPKIN PRESERVES.— Choose a good sweet pumpkin, pare, take out the seeds and cut into slices. Allow 1 lb. sugar and 1 gill of lemon juice for 1 lb. of pumpkin. Put the pumpkin in a deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between, and pour the lemon juice on top; let stand 2 or 3 days, and then boil all together, adding 1 cup water for each 3 lbs. sugar used, until the pumpkin is tender; then let it stand for 1 week, when drain ofp the syrup, boil until it in quite thick, skim, and pour it hot over the pumpkin. A little bruised ginger and lemon rind thinly pared may be boiled in the syrup to flavor the pumpkin= STRAWBERRY PRESERVES — Select the largest berries, and use equal weights of strawberries and sugar; lay the fruit in deep dishes, and sprinkle ^ the sugar over them in fine powder; shake the dish so that the sugar may touch the under part of the fruit. The next day make a syrup with the remainder of the sugar and the juice drawn from the strawberries and boil until it jellies; then put in the strawberries carefully, and let them siyinner nearly an hour. Put them carefully in glass jars and fill up with the syrup; there will bo more than enough to fill the jars, but after standing over night 516 PRESERVES the jars will hold more. Any syriip remaining can be used in mak- ing pudding sauces, etc. Putting strawberries up whole thus, is much the best way. Raspberries can be put up the same way QUINCE PRESERVES.— Take fine yellow quinces, and pare, quarter and core them (save cores and skins) ; add just water enough to cover the quinces, set them on the stove and simmer until soft, but not until they begin to break; carefully remove the fruit, spread it on dishes to cool, and into the water in which the quinces were boiled put the cores, seeds and parings; stew it 1 hour, covered closely, and strain it through a jelly bag; add 1 lb. sugar for each pint of this liquor, boil it up, skim, and put in the quinces quince. and boil gently 25 minutes; let it stand in a deep dish, closely cov ered, 24 hours; then drain off the syrup, bring it to a boil, jjut in the fruit carefully, and boil ^ hour; then take it out as dry as pos- sible, spread it on dishes to cool, and boil the syrup down thick ; fill jars I full of fruit, and pour on the syrup. The preserves should be of a fine red color. An equal amount of sweet apples can be cooked with the quinces (and without additional sugar), and the difference will hardly be noticed. GREEN TOMATO PRESERVES.— Select small, even^sized toma- toes for preserving. To each 3 lbs. tomatoes take 2 fresh lemons ; pare off the yellow rind thin, so as to leave the white part, and squeeze out the juice! First boil the tomatoes in water sufficient to cover them, until they begin to get tender; add the lemon and a few peach leaves and powdered ginger tied in muslin bags; boil together until the tomatoes are tender, take them out carefully, strain the liquor, and add to it 1^ lbs. sugar for each pound tomatoes; put the tomatoes back into the syrup, and boil until they appear to be done. In the course of a week pour the syrup from the tomatoes, heat it scalding hot, and pour it again on the tomatoes; then tie up. RIPE TOMATO PRESERVES.— For these use for 8 lbs. tomatoes, 1 lbs. sugar, and the juice of 4 lemons. Peel the tomatoes, and let PKESERVES , 517 lemon juice, sugar and tomatoes stand together over night; drain ojff the syrup and boil it, skimming it well; then put in the tomatoes and allow them to boil gently and steadily for 20 minutes. Take them out with the skimmer and spread them on dishes to cool. Boil down the syrup until it thickens, put the tomatoes in jars and pour the syrup over them hot. PRESERVED WATERMELON AND CANTELOPE RINDS.— It is a good plan to keep these rinds in a strong solution of salt and water until they are needed for preserving; the salt can then be removed by boiling them in fresh water. Now soak them in alum water (have it weak) for a little while, and then again boil in clear water until the alum taste disappears. Allow for every pound of rind 2 lbs. sugar, and make it into a rich syrup, clarifying it; then boil the rind for 1 hour in this syrup. Adding a little acid, like vinegar, will keep the syrup from graining. Flavor with lemon if desired. CANNING FRUITS, VEGETA- BLES, ETC. HEN it is properly done, fruits ana vegetables canned at home are both better and cheaper than those bought at stores. Select sound, fresh fruit, and use good sugar. The first record of canning appears in a paper sub- mittea to the English Society of Arts in 1807, by Mr. Saddington; but M. Appert who first put it into use on a large scale (about 1809) has generally received the credit, for its discovery. Canning in its present form dates from a patent granted in 1823 to Pierre Angil- bert. The Pkinoiples Involved. — The principles underlying the process of canning have been quite generally misunderstood, and successful fruit canning has been by many people supposed to depend upon the observance of certain methods which would result in the expulsion of the air, and the directions have been to boil fruit to expel the air, to heat the jars very hot, to stir the contents that all air bubbles may escape, to fill to overflowing, and seal immediately. It is impossible by any heating process to expel all the air. However full jars may be tilled with hot fruit, when cold there is more or less air at the top. The correct reason for heat- ing fruit is not to expel the air, but to destroy minute, living germs (bacteria*) that to a greater or less extent are always floating in the air, and which alight upon fruit and all other substances. These germs especially abound in the atmos- phere in the season when fruits ripen. Under favorable conditions they multiply with marvelous rapidity, and in a remarkably short space of time entirely change the composition of fruit and its juices. This disorganization of the fruit takes place to a greater or less extent according to the readiness with which the germs find access thereto, and the favorableness of the surrounding conditions. Experiment has demonstrated, beyond a reasonable doubt, that most of the bacteria which produce fermentation (for there are many varieties of them) can- not exist in a temperature above 140°, and nearly all die at 130° to 135°. The spores, however, (corresponding to seeds) are more tenacious of life than the de- veloped bacteria, but these are all killed at the temperature of boiling water if submitted to its action for some time, for they do not all die instantly, even at that temperature. It should also be said that the bacteria flourish best in a neutral or alkaline solution, while an acid solution is unfavorable to them, and the acid nature of many of the fruit juices hastens their destruction. Furthermore it is difficult to arrange so that the central parts of a can shall receive the same amount of heat as the surface, particularly in the case of solidly packed goods, like corn and beans, so that they need to be cooked for some time. * Bacteria and microbes are terms applied to minute organisms which abound everywhere, and which play an important part in the economy of nature, causing both fermentation and putrefaction. They are rather more like plants than ani- mals, and so small are they that the most powerful microscope makes them ap- pear as little more than dots and rods. There are many varieties, but in shape they take principally 3 different forms which may be compared to a lead pencil (those having this form are called bacilli), a ball (called cocus), and a corkscrew (called spirilum). 518 CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 519 These being the principles involved, canning resolves itself simply into kill- ing all the bacteria and spores, and preventing any new ones from obtaining access to the fruit, and the simplest and most effectual method of doing this is the best. Fruit has often been cooked more than was necessary, but the housewife need not be troubled by having her fruit "go all to pieces" and get "mussy" when being canned, if she handles it intelligently. Enclosing air in the can when it is sealed will do no harm, provided such air has been heated hot enough to kill all germs floating in it. If the cans are not sealed perfectly air tight, cold, unsteril- ized air will in time enter the can, carrying in living germs. These are so infini- tesimally small that they will pass through the most minute opening and they will then begin to propagate, and cause fermentation. The Breaking of Jars. — If fruit is put into jars and the jars put in a boiler, surrounded with water and boiled, the jars are liable to crack if set directly on the metal bottom. Breaking will be prevent- ed by putting several thicknesses of wet cloth under the jars; or use. strips of wood, or hay or straw. Wrapping the jars in hay or straw simply keeps them from touching each other and allows the water to circulate around them freely. A fruit jar for canning hot fruit need never be heated by rolling in hot water or otherwise; a cloth wrung from cold water and com- pletely swathing the jar will insure against cracking, if the jar is perfect, and if it is not it will be likely to crack in any event. The cloth should be soft, and touch the jar in every part, and cover the glass well at the top. Utensils. — See what we say about " The Utensils Used " in the introduction to our previous chapter on " Jams, Jellies, etc.," for the action of the acids in fruits on tin, copper, etc. Peaches. — If peaches are dipjped in scalding hot water for a minute (some use hot lye) and then into cold water, the skin will readily slip off. If the stones are cracked and the kernels slightly cooked in the syrup which is poured over them it will be an improve- ment. The tastelessness of canned peaches sold in the stores often results from not doing this. Pare Fruit with a silver or aluminum knife and use forks of the same metals— steel will discolor it. Drop it in cold water as soon as pared, which will prevent its turning dark. To Soften Hard Fruits, like apples, pares, hard peaches or quinces, steam them; or cook in water till tender. Using Sugar — Although fruits can be canned without sugar, many fruits are improved by the use of more or less of it; it improves those fruits when canned which require it when fresh. Fruits which are to be used for flavoring ice creams and water ices, are best canned without sugar. If sugar is sprinkled on small fruits, and left on 1 or 2 hours, they retain their shape better. Any surplus juice from strawberries or other small fruits, can be made into jelly. Strain syrup which is not clear through fine flannel. 520 CANNING FEUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. Sealing. — When fruit is otherwise properly put up it often fails to keep because of improper sealing; covers should be screwed on reasonably tight at first, and tightened often till quite cold; the glass shrinks by cooling, and the covers should be tightened up on it as it shrinks. Be sure the rubbers used are close fitting and firm. If corks and wax are used in sealing, soak the corks in hot water: dry both cork and the edge of the bottle with a hot cloth before applying the ^ax, to insure its close adherence to the glass. Parafine paper tied or pasted over heated fruit will keep it sweet for quite a time in summer, and for weeks in cold weather. It is also recommended for covering jellies and jams, as it is impervious to air and is water=proof. Keeping. — All goods canned in glass (and that is the safest and most reliable thing to use) should be kept in the dark, or the cans wrapped in paper, as the light will bleach and injure many fruits, especially tomatoes and strawberries. Canned fruit and vegetables should be kept in a cool, dry and dark place. Tlie Flavor of Canned Fruit is improved if it is opened some time before it is needed for use, and allowed to aerate. Vegetables Intended for Canning should be as fresh as possible, as wilted vegetables will not can well. The Food Value of Canned Goods.— A careful analysis of the canned goods sold in the market has shown that they should be regarded mainly in the light of an expensive luxury. This is owing principally to the large amount of water they contain. In such articles as corn and string beans a test has shown that the con- tents of the can consists of 65% to 95% of water, so that if one bought 100 lbs. of these goods, he would buy 65 lbs. to 95 lbs. of water, and only 5 lbs. to 35 lbs. of dry food material. For this reason 10 or 25 cents invested in flour, corn- meal or meat will get as much actual food material for the body as $1 or $2 will if invested in canned goods. Poor people, and those of moderate means should understand these things. When, however, the goods are canned at home the food is, of course, bought uncanned, and as cheaply as it could be obtained in any form. If properly put up canned goods are wholesome. A WoED OF Caution. — Sometimes goods which are put up in tin cans, and which are all right when opened, are allowed to stand afterwards exposed to the air, and then the acid they contain will at once attack the lead in the tin, produc- ing poisonous compounds of lead. For this reason the contents of tin cans should be emptied out at once on being opened. So important is this that it should be understood by every one. Salioylio Acid. — This has been often used in canning fruits, and many agents have passed through the country selling recipes or preparations guaranteed to pre- serve fruit, the active ingredient of which was salicylic or some form of sulfurous acid. These should never be used. They may injure the health of the consumer, they impair the taste of the fruit, and their use is wholly unnecessary, as fruit is easily canned successfully without them. Don't buy or use such preparations. CANNING BERRIES, ETC.— To can small fruit, or those which require little cooking, such as berries, peaches, etc., allow for every quart jar 1 teacup of sugar, more or less according to the acidity of the fruit. Dissolve the sugar in a very little water, put the fruit in CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC 521 it and heat to the boiling point; swathe each jar with a wet cloth, fill it with fruit, and seal it at once while hot. CANNING APPLES — Select choice apples, pare, quarter, core, and let simmer merely, until tender; then drain them out, put into hot syrup, boil 2 or 3 minutes, and fill hot into jars. The juice and rind of 1 lemon to 4 lbs. apples imparts a pleasant flavor. Using 1 lb. of quinces or 1 good= sized pineapple to 4 lbs. apples also makes a pleasant combination. CANNING CURRANTS — Use | lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; let the fruit stand 2 or 8 hours covered with the sugar in the preserving kettle; then bring slowly to the boiling point, fill into jars and seal. Raspberries are nice put up with currant juice j allow 1 cup cur- rant juice and 1 cup sugar to each quart of raspberries, add the juice and sugar to the berries, bring to the boil and put in jars. Red raspberries and red currants are also very nice canned together half and half. Dewberries and Elderberries can be put up like currants, but allow ^ lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit. The Dewbekey belongs to the same species as the raspberry and blackberry Its composition is about the same, and it can be used like them for pies, pudding or jam. It is a very wholesome fruit. CANNING DAMSONS.— Allow | lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; place alternate layers of sugar and plums in a preserving kettle, first pricking the plums to prevent their breaking; let it stand 1 or 2 hours at the back of the stove, then heat gradually just to the boiling point, fill into jars and seal. Greengages or Plums of any kind, can be canned the same Way, but allow f lb. of sugar to 1 lb. fruit. They can be allowed to stand in alternate layers of plums and sugar over night if desired; the next day bring to a boil and can. GOOSEBERRIES. — These when ripe can be put up like currants, allowing ^ lb. sugar to 1 1^. gooseberries. Green gooseberries are best put up by the " Cold Process " (which see). CANNING PEARS — Steam them until tender in a steamer; then put them into jars and fill with boiling syrup, holding in solu- tion for each jar \ teaspoon of tartaric acid dissolved in a little water. This acid gives a piquant flavor to the otherwise sweet or insipid fruit, and is harmless. THE DEWBEKBY. 522 CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. RHUBARB. — The simplest and best method for this is by the "Cold Process " (which see). CANNING QUINCES. — Pare, quarter, core, and let them simmer merely, in water until tender; then drain them from the water, put them into the hot syrup (allow ^ lb. sugar and 1 cup water to 1 lb. quinces), let simmer 10 minutes (at 170°) and put into jars. The core, seeds and parings can be made into jelly. CANNING GRAPES.— Grapes may be canned whole without the usual process of scalding. Heat the jars very hot by steaming them over water brought gradually from tepid to boiling heat, or by placing them in the oven on several thicknesses of paper, and increas- ing the heat gradually. Wring a towel from hot water and swathe the cans; then fill them with the cold grapes, cover with boiling water, seal, and let stand 10 minutes; then take off the covers, pour off the water, and cover with boiling syrup sweetened to taste, and seal. The skins will not break, and the fruit will have a very differ- ent flavor from seeded grapes. Blackberries, Huckleberries, Juneberries and Rasp= berries may be canned as directed for grapes. The Junebebky. — This fruit, as its name indicates, appears in June. It has a mild sub=acid fiavor, approach- ing that of the huckleberry. It may be served with sugar and cream when eaten for dessert. STRAWBERRIES.-To preserve the color and flavor of strawberries requires care. They should go directly from the field or garden to the preserving kettle— even washing them injures their keeping qualities. Use I lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit. Place alternate layers of sugar and berries in a preserving kettle and let stand 1 hour; then heat slowly just to the boiling point; fill into jars and seal hot. CANNING APRICOTS— Pack them whole into the jars, pack- ing them full, and as closely as possible without mashing or pressing the fruit; fill the jars with syrup up to the shoulder, put on the cover loosely, and set them in a wash=boiler so that they do not touch the metal bottom, as directed in the introduction to this chap- ter, and fill water around them up to their necks; put on the cover, bring it to a boil, and keep it boiling 12 to 15 minutes, so that the fruit in the jar may be heated clear through; then remove from the stove, fill 1 jar at a time with hot syrup (have some surplus syrup ready, and bring it to a boil at the same time as the fruit), screw on JUNEBEKEY. CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 523 the cover, set it back in the water, and let all cool together. Prac- tically this is a very good method, as it kills all germs, without overcooking the fruit. Cherries; put up like apricots; boil 10 minutes. Nectarines; put up like apricots; boil 12 minutes. Plums; put up same way; boil 10 minutes. Strawberries; put up same way; boil 8 min- utes. Peaches can be put up the same way, but they should be pared and halved; if 2 or 3 kernels are put in the center of each iar they will flavor all the ... NEOTABINE. fruit in it; and this should be done, as they lack flavor without the kernels. Pineapples can be put up in the same way, but they should be first pared and sliced, using a silver knife. Boil ^ hour. CANNED CORN — Select young tender ears, cut the corn care- fully from the cob with a very sharp knife, and scrape the cob with the back of a knife to secure the milk. Dissolve 1 oz. of druggist's pure tartaric acid in a large teacup of warm water, and use | of this for every 4 quarts of corn; to be exact, measure by tablespoons. Stir the required amount into the corn, add 2 teacups of hot water, and cook 15 minutes. Stir often and thoroughly while cooking; then can in the usual way. On opening for use, to each quart add a level teaspoon of soda (to neutralize the acid), cook 5 minutes and season to taste, being careful to add a little sugar. Should the corn turn yellow on adding the soda, add a very little more acid water (some may be kept corked); should there be a slight acid taste, put in a little more soda. If the acid is impure, or too much is used, crystals will form. Canned Corn No. 2. — Another method is to crowd corn cut from the cob into glass jars, seal moderately tight, set them into cold water, bring it to the boil, and then boil 3 hours; then loosen the cov- ers an instant, seal again, and cook 1 hour; then remove from the fire. Tighten the covers occasionally as the cans cool. Corn put up this way keeps perfectly, but it is not as fresh as that put up with acid, and the process is more tedious. In serving this corn all that it needs is to get it thoroughly hot, and add a little milk or cream, butter and seasoning; further cooking toughens it. CANNED PEAS. — Shell them, and pack closely in cans; add to each quart 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar dissolved in a little 524 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. water; j&ll them full of water, put on the covers, and proceed as directed for apricots, but keep the water boiling 3 hours; fill hot water into the boiler, as that in it cooks away; when done, screw down the tops, and let them cool. ASPARAGUS. — Put it up as directed above for peas, but omit the sugar and salt, ^^m.^ LIMA BEANS. — Treat as directed above for ^^ peas, but omit the sugar, fOI STRING BEANS — Either green or cream ml beans can be put up as directed above for peas. MM String them, cut into inch lengths, put into cans, iiMn add to each quart 1 teaspoon of salt, and continue ii^^ffJifltv as directed for peas. '-•■=!i;iiS&rit-=A^^ String Beans No. 2. — String the beans and re- aspaeagus. move the stem end. Boil them in water until about half tender, then to each 4 quarts of beans add ^ pint of salt; boil 10 minutes, put in cans, cover well with the liquor in which they were boiled and seal. To use, drain, cook in a little water, and season to taste with cream or butter. A very little white sugar added to the seasoning is an improvement. String Beans No. 3. — Another method is to boil the beans in slightly salted water until they are tender, but not until they break; then drain quickly and can, covering them with weak boil- ing vinegar, or vinegar and water. To use, drain them, soak in warm water 15 minutes, heat 5 minutes, and season with butter and a little milk, thickened slightly with corn-starch. CANNING CABBAGE. — Slice cabbage when it comes from the pits in the spring, cook it in very little water, season with salt, and can boiling hot. CANNING CARROTS — Boil carrots till tender, peel and slice, reheat them in a steamer and can, covering them with weak boiling vinegar, or vinegar and water. Use them as a garnish, or season with cream for a salad. CANNED BEETS — Chop beets while tender, season with sweet- ened vinegar, and can hot. They make delicious salad, PUMPKIN. — Scrape out the seeds after cutting it up, and either stew or bake it until tender, without paring, as the sweetest part lies next the rind; when baked, remove the rind, mash with the potato masher, put it in jars and seal while hot. Add no seasoning until opened for use. CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 525 CANNED SUCCOTASH.— Put lima beans in salted water, and cook nearly enough for table use ; take green corn on the cob, and boil until when a grain is cut no milk flows, then cut it from the cob, and mix with the lima beans, using 1 measure of beans to 2 measures of corn; cover them with boiling water, bring to a boil, and fill them into glass jars. String beans can be used instead of lima beans, but cut them into 1 inch lengths. To use this succotash, drain off the liquor and add butter, milk and flour the same as for fresh succotash. CANNED^ TOMATOES (Whole).— Select good small ones, re- jecting all that are soft or spotted; put them whole into the cans without peeling, fill with cold water, and proceed as directed for peas, but omit the salt and sugar, and boil only | hour. Canned Tomatoes No. 2. — Scald and skin them ; bring them gradu- ally to a boil in the preserving kettle, and let them simmer merely ^ hour (at 170°); put into the cans while hot, and seal. Canned Tomatoes No. 3. — Select the tomatoes before they are ripe. As soon as they are gathered from the vines remove the skins, cut them in small pieces and drain; boil them 20 minutes, stirring often, and adding salt freely while boiling. Can in the usual way. One can determine by tasting just how much salt can be used. They are less likely to sour when salt is used. Canned Tomatoes are nice stewed and baked in alternate layers with boiled rice or boiled macaroni, seasoning the layers with butter, pepper and salt. CANNED TOMATOES WITH CORN.— Boil the corn on the cob the same as for table use, and cut it off while hot; have tomatoes skinned and rubbed to a smooth pulp; put 2 parts tomatoes to 1 part corn, salt as for the table, bring to a hard boil, and can quickly. CANNED BEANS WITH ACID.— Cook the beans until done; then add for each pint of beans 1 tablespoon of a solution made by dissolving 1^ oz. tartaric acid in 1 cup water; can at once while hot. To use, to each quart of beans add ^ teaspoon of soda to neutralize the acid, and let stand a little while before cooking. Then season and serve. If there is a slightly acid taste use a little more soda; if too much soda is used add a trifle more acid. Peas can be put up the same way. FRUIT JUICES — Select the best fruit, squeeze out the juice, strain it through fine muslin (4 thicknesses) or through flannel cloth, add sugar in the proportion of f lb. sugar to 1 quart of juice, and bring to a boil; use an earthen or porcelaindined kettle, remove all scum which rises, and put while hot into small bottles, and keep closely corked; or it can be kept in Mason jars. 526 CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. When canning fruit the juice remaining can be bottled in the same manner. For pudding sauces, etc., these can be used in place of wines and intoxicating liquors, as we have elsewhere stated in speaking of intoxicating liquors; they can also be used for water ices and summer beverages. Fruit juices can also be put up without the use of sugar; strain the juice, and fill it into the bottles to the bottom of the neck only; then cork securely, wire the corks down, and set the bottles into water up to the neck; let it boil ^ hour, then take from the stove, let them stand in the water till cold, and seal the corks. Juices put up this way can be used like fresh juices, but when exposed to the air they spoil quickly, so that all must be used at once when a bottle is opened. Small bottles are therefore best. CANNING WITHOUT SYKUP. Fruit can be put up much as directed for apricots, but without using any syrup. The fruit should not be very ripe when picked; fill wide=mouthed bottles as full as they will hold, cork and seal each one tightly, surround it with water and boil as there directed; then remove from the stove and let them cool standing in the water, tight- ening the covers occasionally. It will be found to nearly equal fresh fruit when opened, and can be used like it. Apricots, cherries, gooseberries, sliced pineapple, plums, and other fruit can be put up thus. CANNING BY THE COLD PROCESS. Many fruits may be canned by what is termed the " Cold Pro- cess." It is best to boil the water used for this purpose, to kill all germs in it; then let it get cold before using it. Green Currants and Green Gooseberries. — To can them in this manner fill jars with the green fruit, shaking it well together; ^?Z with water which has been boiled and allowed to get perfectly cold; seal, wrap each jar in pa per, and set in a cool place. The Cubbant is supposed to be a native of North- ern Europe, and did not attract much attention till ■within the last 100 years. It is not mentioned by the ancient Greek and Roman writers. The red, white and black, all belong to the same species as the goose- berry, and their composition is nearly the same. It is white: cubbant* a wholesome and useful fruit. Its acid is principally citric and malic. Grapes (Cold Process) — Remove them from the large clusters in smaller clusters of 2 or 3, being very careful indeed that the stem of CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 527 each grape is in no wise loosened from the fruit; fill the jars with these clusters, or with the single gra^^es if preferred, with the stems left entire or partly clipped; when full (do not shake, as the success depends upon the stem adhering to the fruit) immerse the jar in a pail of water which has been boiled and become cold; when the jar is quite full of water screw on the top while under water. Cherries (Cold Process). — The stems of cherries may be clipped and the fruit canned in the same manner as grapes. It is more diffi- cult to prepare cherries, as they loosen so easily from the stem. Canned Peaches (Cold Process). — Pare and halve the fruit, fill a jar with it, packing closely, and fill the jar with water as for currants; cover and let stand 6 or 8 hours for the water to work its way into all openings; then fill in water to take the place of that which has worked in, and seal. Thus put up, all the freshness and flavor of the fruit is retained. Instead of the water cold syrup can be used, but the natural flavor is best retained without any sweetening. Canned Rhubarb (Cold Process) — Take fresh green stalks, peel and slice as if for pies; then take fruit jars and pack this in up to the necks, and then fill the jars with cold water; now seal uj) air tight and it will keep any number of months. To see if the jars are tight set them bottom up for a little while and see if any water escapes; if not, they are all right. To use it, pour off the water and use like fresh pieplant; but to sweeten it, not over ^ the sugar ordinarily used will be needed, as the water will extract some of the acid. The method is simple, and it will be equal to fresh piejalant when used. Strawberries Canned Cold. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. sugar; dissolve the sugar in the least possible quantity of water, put in the strawberries and let both boil up together once thoroughly; then put the fruit and syrup in deep earthen pie plates, and let stand in the sun 24 hours covered with mosquito netting; or dry it in a cool oven; then can cold. Delicious. Currants, Raspberries, Huckleberries and other small fruit may be canned the same way. The Huoklebeeey is native to the northern parts of the world. It has a spicy, rather sweetish taste and is very wholesome. It contains about 77^ water, 5.7^ sugar and l.S% free acid. It belongs to the same species as the bil- berry and blueberry. HUOKIjESEBBY. CANNING MEAT. Do not leave meat designed for canning exposed to the air; as soon as it is thoroughly cold, after killing, prepare it by selecting 528 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. pieces free from blood. Remove all bone, gristle and inferior pieces, and cut it into suitable pieces for the table, having them rather thin than otherwise. On the bottom of a Mason's self-sealing can put a little salt, pepper, and a dash of pulverized, sifted saltpetre; then put in a layer of meat, and on that sprinkle more of the same seasoning, and so on alternately, filling the can to within an inch of the top, pressing the layers down firmly while packing that there may be no air spaces. On the top layer use the seasoning more freely. Fill the can with lard, heated sufficiently to run smoothly. Cover with a paper bag, and keep in a cool, dark place. It will keep from January to July. Canned Meat No. 2. — Take fresh beef and boil it until all the bones will come out; then take the meat out, remove the bones and cut in short lengths, returning it to the liquor; season to taste with salt, pepper, a little mace, cloves and chopped onions, if liked. Take the meat from the liquor with a wire dipper, fill it into the cans, pour on the boiling liquor, and seal tight. Keep in a dark, cool place. CANNED CORN BEEF. — Before the brine sours or changes in the least, boil the meat till tender; then remove the bone, gristle, and white fiber, return to the boiling liquor, and when hot, can it, press- ing it compactly; cover it well with the boiling hot liquor and seal. Keep the cans in paper bags in a cool cellar. Examine on the approach of warm weather, and if on shaking the cans any bubbles arise, open such cans and use the meat at once. Pickled Tongue is also very nice put up in this way. Mince and Sausage Meat must be put into cans while at boiling heat, if thus preserved. Pbeseeving Meats. — All the resources of science have been called into play to devise means to preserve meat so that the surplus of one region can be trans- ported unimpaired to supply the needs of another region less bountifully supplied. The 4 most important methods which have been devised are by drying, by cold, by heating and excluding the air, and by the use of antiseptics. They are all based on killing or preventing the development of the germs (bacteria) -which cause putrefaction. Drying preserves meat and vegetables because the low forms of life, as well as the higher, cannot develop without a certain amount of moisture, but the flavor and other qualities of meat are not improved by drying. Fr^eezing preserves the meat because cold checks the growth of all micro-organisms. In cabining, the usual method is to heat the article enough to kill all the germs, and then seal it up so tightly that no more can enter. AiitisejJtics, like salt, sugar, etc., act by preventing the development of the micro=ovganisms which cause decay. The action of salt is to draw the juices and many of the nutritive elements out of the meat, and when they are once drawn out they can never be restored again, so that salted meat is never as nutritious as fresh meat. The salt also hardens the fiber of the meat and makes it less digestible. Salt has a whitening effect on the meat also, and to CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 529 counteract that, saltpetre is often added, but the latter tends to make the meat hard, dry and indigestible, and therefore a little cochineal is sometimes used for coloring instead. 34 PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, ETC. ^ I /HE custom of pickling seems to have been practiced, since W ' very early times, the ancient Greeks and Romans highly (SJ I v£> esteeming their pickles made from herbs, roots and vegeta- bles preserved by vinegar. All vegetables and fruit used for pickles should be sound, and not over^ripe. Fruits can be pickled as well as vegetables. The Vinegar. — Use only pure vinegar in making pickles, catsups and sauces. Cider vinegar is usually considered about the best for this purpose. As vinegar is weakened by boiling, it should be merely brought to the scalding point and then poured on the pickles; if not scalded but put on raw, however, it will not keep well. Have the vinegar strong or the pickles will seem " insipid " If the strength of the vinegar is lost, replace it with some which is strong, and boil- ing hot when poured on. Adding a little horseradish will help to keep up the life of the vinegar, but use it sparingly; 1 or 2 clusters of green grapes serve the same purpose. To heat vinegar, a good w^ay is to put it in a stone jar in a sauce=pan, with hot water around it, and as soon as it reaches the boiling point remove from the fire, as boiling reduces both its strengh and flavor. Vinegar can be kept from molding by putting into each jar some horseradish, mustard seed or nasturtiums, but use only a little. Using Alum and Parboiling. — If articles to be pickled are parboiled or scalded they will absorb the vinegar more readily, but they will not be so crisp. Cucumbers and gherkins are made crisp and green by dissolving a small lump of alum in the vinegar the first time it is scalded, but it is injurious to the health if too much is used. Coloring Pickles. — A green color can easily be obtained, if desired, by soaking cabbage or vine leaves or the leaves of parsley or spinach in the vinegar, and the color thus obtained is harmless. Or to have cucumbers green put them into cold vinegar and heat them slowly over a moderate fire until they become green. A Caution. — Bright green pickles have been popular, merely because of their looks. To gratify this taste pickles have been boiled in copper kettles with vine- gar and a little alum. The acetic acid of the vinegar acts on the copper and forms acetate of copper, which is commonly and well known as verdigris. This pene- trates the pickles and colors them green, but it should be understood that this acetate of copper (verdigris) is really a most active poison, and that pickles thus prepared are poisonous and unhealthy. 530 SOUR PICKLES 531 Spices. — Use spices judiciously so that all combine into a pleasant jflavor without having one flavor predominate over all the others, and do not flavor so strongly as to entirely disguise the original flavor of the article pickled. Brine. — The rule for the brine used for pickles is "strong enough to float an egg." The proportion is about 1 quart of water to 1 cup salt. Tlie Kettle, etc. — Use porcelain-lined or granite kettles for putting up pickles. The acid in vinegar will act on the lead in tinned ves- sels, and produce the poisonous acetate of lead, and in brass or cop- per vessels it produces the poisonous acetate of copper (verdigris) . As the mild acids, however, do not affect aluminum, utensils made of that metal are excellent to use for this purpose. Use wooden spoons instead of metal spoons or forks. If, how- ever, any metal spoons or forks are used have them either of alumi- num or silver. Keeping Pickles. — Pickles will become soft and spoil if exposed to the air, so that they should always be kept covered with vinegar; there should be 2 or 3 inches of vinegar over them; keep the jar tightly closed. If pickles show signs at any time of becoming moldy or soft, pour off the vinegar, scald it, skim, add to each gal- lon of vinegar 1 handful of sugar, and pour it back on again, boil- ing hot. The sugar will form fresh vinegar and so strengthen the old. If pickles are put in jars and sealed while hot, they keep bet- ter than in any other way. Pickles should be kept in a dry, cool place, but they will be spoiled if they freeze. They are best kept in stone or glass; never use glazed jars, as the salt and vinegar will dissolve out the little lead which is used in glazing, and form the poisonous acetate of lead. No vessel which has held grease should be used for keeping pickles. Pickles are an agreeable addition to our food, but they should be eaten sparingly, as they are not easily digested. SOUR PICKLES. PICKLED BEETS.— (1) Wash them, aiid be careful not to prick the outside skin or they will lose their beautiful color; put them into boiling water,' simmer gently until f done (about 1^ hours), take out and cool; then peel, and cut into slices ^ inch thick. Take vinegar enough to cover, add 2 oz. allspice, and 2 oz. whole pepper to each gallon, and boil 5 minutes; when cold, pour it 532 SOUR PICKLES on the beets, and cover closely. They can be used in a week. (2) Another way is to take 4 or 5 medium= sized beets, boil them soft, put in cold water, rub off the skins, wipe dry, cut in pieces, and chop finely in the chopping bowl; add, while chopping, an even teaspoon of salt and sugar, a saltspoon each of mustard and pepper; pack in- to a salad dish or bowl; cover with cold vinegar, and let it stand until the next day before serving. Carrots may be pickled in the same manner. Few people know how good carrots are when pickled. ARTICHOKES.— Take a strong brine and boil the artichokes in it 2 or 3 minutes; then drain them on a sieve, and put in jars when cold. Boil some nutmeg, mace and ginger in enough vinegar to cover; pour it on hot and seal the jars. BEANS. — String the beans and boil until tender, putting a little salt in the water; then drain in a colander, and when cold put in jars; add 1 tablespoon f^ . . ARTICHOKE. of horseradish, sprinkle with cayenne pep- per lightly, and cover with good cider vinegar. PICKLED CABBAGE. — Slice the cabbage fine, and cover with boiling water; drain off the water when cold. Season with red and black pepper in equal parts, salt, cinnamon and cloves, and grated horseradish. Cover with strong vinegar. PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.—Break the heads into small pieces, and boil in salt and water 10 or 15 minutes; then drain carefully, and place in jars when cold; tie white mustard, cloves, allspice and pep- per in a bag, put it in vinegar and scald; take the vinegar from the stove, take out the bag, and to each quart add ^ cup sugar, and 1 tablespoon of mustard; pour it over the cauliflower, and cover tightly. CELERY PICKLES.— Take ^ gallon of chopped celery, the same of chopped white cabbage, 4 oz. white mustard seed, -^ oz. ginger root, 2 tablespoons salt, ^ oz. turmeric, | cup sugar, f gallon cider vinegar; let all simmer gently until celery and cabbage are tender; then put in jars. CHERRY PICKLES. — Take large, ripe cherries, leave the stems on, and put them whole into cans, filling them only |- full; take good cider vinegar, fill the cans with it cold, and seal without heat- ing. SOUR PICKLES 533 PICKLED CORN — Select good corn and boil it on the cob; When done let it cool, and cut it from the cob; then pack it in a jar in alternate layers of salt and corn, having salt at the bottom and on top; then spread on a cloth, lay on a board, and weight it down. For use, soak it till fresh, in water, and cook or heat it. Many like it better this way than when canned. String Beans and Lima Beans can also be packed in salt; after being in the salt 2 days they can be used at any time, and can be cooked like green vegetables, but while boiling, change the water 1 or 2 times. They will be like fresh vegetables. CUCUMBER PICKLES— Cut cucumbers from the vine instead of twisting or pulling them off, as that injures them. Fill a jar with cucumbers, and pour boiling water over them, with a little salt; let stand 6 hours or over night, and then put them into cold vinegar. To 1 gallon of vinegar add 1 cup salt and 1 tablespoon pulverized alum, and scald the pickles in this mixture; pour it off, and pour on new vinegar, with spice, red peppers, cinnamon, root ginger and cloves. Cucumber Picltles No. 2. — Take | bushel cucumbers, and soak 24 to 36 hours in brine strong enough to float an egg; then take them out, wash, and cover them with vinegar and water (half and half) adding alum the size of a large walnut; let soak 2 days. Then take out, put in jars, and put 1 green pepper in each large jar. Scald 2 gallons vinegar with 3 lbs. brown sugar, 1 oz. each stick cinnamon, whole cloves, and whole allspice, and pour it over the pickles. They can be used next day, and are fine. Cucumber Pickles No. 3. — Pick when 2 or 3 inches long, no larger. Wash, dry, and put a layer in the bottom of a glass fruit jar; mix 1 teaspoon each of whole cloves, whole pepper-corns, allspice, and 2 teaspoons of stick cinnamon broken fine; sprinkle the cucumbers in the jar with this mixture, add more cucumbers, then more spice, and so alternately until the jar is full. This amount of spice is for 1 quart can. Fill the can with strong vinegar, cold, screw on the cover, and in about 4 or 5 weeks they will be ready for use. By this method one can pick cucumbers each day, using ac many cans as they will fill; it is sure and easy, as there is no trouble salting, boil- ing, etc. Cucumber Pickles No. 4. — Take 2 parts soft water, and 1 part New Orleans molasses or sorghum; put it in a jar or cask, and set it in the sun with a thin cloth and board covering it; the board should be removed during the day, but the cloth left on to keep out insects. This must be prepared long enough to get sour (say 4 weeks) before 534 SOUR PICKLES putting in cucumbers. Set it in a cool place as soon as you begin to put in cucumbers; pick and put some in each day, and every time you put in cucumbers add a little molasses to keep up the strength of the vinegar. Lastly add 5 or 6 lbs. of brown sugar, a few horse- radish roots and a small piece of alum. Some use the same vinegar every year; strain it, and add molasses as the cucumbers are put in. It saves the trouble of making fresh every year. SALTING CUCUMBERS.— Wash them, and put first a layer of salt, then a layer of cucumbers, and so on alternately until the jar is full, having salt on top and keeping all down with a weight. They will keep this way 2 or 3 years. For use, freshen them by soaking in water for 2 or 3 days, changing the water daily. Scald vinegar, to which is added spices, and a little sugar if desired, and pour this hot over the cucumbers. A cloth can be laid over salted cucumbers, under the weight, and the scum that arises may be removed by taking off the cloth and rinsing it. Horseradish tops or cabbage leaves placed under the cloth will prevent molding. LARGE CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Very nice pickles may be made with the large cucumbers that would be considered unfit for use by some people. Peel them, and take out the seeds and soft part; cut them the long way of the cucilmber, cover them with cold vinegar, and let them stand one day and night; drain them well and put on fresh vinegar, with 2 lbs. sugar; put 1 oz. cassia buds in a quart of vinegar and add to the pickles. Boil for 20 minutes then put them away in jars, well covered. PICKLED GHERKINS.— Put them in strong brine until they are yellow; then remove them, and pour on hot, spiced vinegar, and keep them in a warm place until they turn green; take them out, and cover with good vinegar, boiling hot and spiced to taste. Gheekins are young cucumbers, gathered before they are mature, and they are used for nothing but pickling; as pickles, however, they are generally liked. They should not be gathered too young, or their, flavor will not be suf- ficiently developed. PICKLED EGGS— Boil eggs hard, take off the shells, and put them in jars; take vinegar gheekins. enough to cover, season it well with cloves, all- spice and whole peppers, and a little ginger tied in a muslin bag; bring it to a boil, and pour it hot on the eggs; close the jars tightly when cold. They will be ready for use in a fortnight. SOUR PICKLES 535 SPICED CUCUMBER PICKLES— Soak 2 quarts of salted pickles in cold water until quite fresh — it may take 2 days; be sure and change the water 2 or 3 times a day; when fresh, wipe dry and pack closely in jars. Take 1 quart vinegar, 1^ cups brown sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon cloves tied in a bag; bring to a boil, and turn it over the pickles while hot. JERSEY PICKLES. — Take one peck of ripe tomatoes, 3 pep- pers, 3 tablespoons salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of cloves, 3 heaping tea- spoons cinnamon, 4 cups sugar, 2 cups vinegar; boil from 1^ to 2 hours. • PICKLED LEMONS— (1) Select 12 small lemons with thick skins; cut into them nearly to the center, but not quite enough so that they fall apart; fill the openings with salt, and pack them in an earthen dish on end; set away, and in about 4 days there will be brine enough to partly cover them; turn them over, repeating each day for 4 days, so that all parts may soak in the brine; then drain them out and put in glass jars. Add enough cider vinegar to cover the fruit, a little crushed ginger root and a Jamaica pepper if de- sired, or other spice; bring it slowly to a boil, skim, and pour it on the fruit when cold. (2) Another way is to wash 2 doz. lemons, cut across or through the ends of each about 2 inches and pack with the cut end down in a stone jar; add 4 quarts vinegar, ^ lb. mustard=seed, f lb. salt, ^ oz, each of cayenne pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, and 1 small onion; cover the jar, and set it in a kettle of boiling water and boil all day. They should be tender enough to pierce with a fork easily. PICKLED LIMES.— (1) Take 12 limes, make incisions into the rinds into which rub salt, put them on end in an earthen dish, and set in a warm place 4 or 5 days, or until soft, turning them over 1 or 2 times, and put them in glass jars, pouring in the brine. Take enough vinegar to cover them, add ^ oz. whole pepper, and 2 oz. each of bruised ginger and mustard=seed, bring to a boil, and pour on them while hot. When cold, seal the jars. (2) Pick limes when full grown, sound and fresh, and put them at once into brine about as strong as sea- water; in 2 or 3 days it will become bitter; pour it off, cover with fresh brine, and re- peat about 3 times, or until the bitterness is ex- tracted. Cover with fresh brine, and they will keep indefinitely and can be shipped, being always the lime. saleable barreled thus. 536 SOUR PICKLES The I/Ime is a native of Ind^a and China. In the West Indies it is grown for hedges. The fruit is similar to the lemon, but smaller. It has a thin, smooth rind and a very acid juice which some prefer to that of the lemon. PICKLED MARTYNIAS — Choose the small, tender martynias; wash and brush them carefully; soak them in a strong brine for 5 days, then soak them in fresh water until the salty taste is nearly gone; next wipe them dry; put 'them in a jar, and pour over them well spiced hot vinegar, flavored with onions if liked. MANGO PICKLES — Pick green cantelope melons when half grown (about the size of a pint bowl); cut out 1 lobe, carefully scrape out all the seeds, return the lobe and tie it in place; put 15 of the melons in a brine strong enough to float an egg, and leave 6 weeks, keeping them well under; then take out, soak in fresh water 24 hours, then remove, wipe dry, and fill with the following stufiing: Take ^ lb, scraped horseradish, ^ lb. race ginger, scalded, scraped and chopped fine, 2 nutmegs, ^ oz. mace, 1 oz. whole black peppers; 1 small box good mustard, 1 oz. turmeric, 12 large onions minced very fine. Pound the mace, nutmegs and black pepper together, and mix all the ingredients together with enough salad oil to make it into a paste. Stuff each melon perfectly full; return and tie the lobe in place with thread, and put each mango when stuffed into a jar large enough to hold them all. Put enough strong cider vinegar to fill the jar into a preserving kettle; crack and add ^ oz. each of cloves, ground ginger, mace and allspice, let boil, and pour hot over the mangoes. Keep the jar closely covered. Made in the fall the pick- les will be fit to eat Christmas, but the following Christmas they will be matchless, their perfection increasing with age. This pickle is the most elegant made, and is suitable for any dinner that can be served. MIXED PICKLES.— Take 2 heads of cauliflower, 2 heads cab- bage, 50 small cucumbers, 8 small carrots, 2 quarts string beans, 12 sticks of celery, 6 red peppers (without the seeds) and 3 green pep- pers; chop these vegetables separately, and let them soak over night in salt and water; in the morning wash and drain them. Take 2 grated nutmegs, 3 teaspoons each of mace and cinnamon, tie in a muslin bag, and put into vinegar enough to cover the vegetables; scald it, pour it over the vegetables hot, put in jars and cover closely. GREEN PEPPER MANGOES.— Take green peppers which are sound and firm and add as many red ones for appearance; cut off the top, extract the seeds, put into a strong brine, and let soak 24 hours; then drain them, wipe, and fill with a stuffing made of ground cloves, SOUK PICKLES 537 CAPSICUM. mustard seed, green tomatoes chopped, cabbage chopped, and salt, mixed all together; sew on the tops, and cover them with strong, hot vinegar containing 1 cup brown sugar; repeat for 4 mornings, and seal up. The Capsicum family (to which peppers belong) is na- tive to Asia and America. Cayenne pepper is made from the dried pods and seeds of various species of capsicum. As a condiment it is wholesome and aids digestion. Although less used than black pepper it is more wholesome. Chillies is a Mexican name signifying pods. PEACH MANGOES.— Take large, fine, free- stone peaches; with a silver knife cut a hole in the side just large enough to remove the stone, take it out, put back the piece, tie it in, and put the peaches into a strong brine; leave 86 hours, drain out, and let them lie 20 minutes in cold water; wipe carefully, and fill the inside with grated horseradish to which is added a little celery seed and crushed ginger root, and moistened with vinegar. Replace the piece forming the opening, sew or tie it in place with thread; stand them closely in glass jars, and cover them with boiling hot vinegar, containing 1 cup sugar to each quart of vinegar; tie up when cold. They can be used in 8 days. PICKLED MUSHROOMS.— Clean carefully, and boil a few min- utes in salt and water; drain, and dry them between linen cloths; put into jars, and cover with vinegar, spiced to taste. MUSTARD PICKLES.— Chop fine, equal quantities of cauli- flower, white onions, celery, green peppers and green tomatoes; pour on a scalding hot brine, let stand over night, and drain. Take f gal- lon cider vinegar, 1 cup sugar, and 2 tablespoons of butter; bring to a boil, and add 1 cup flour, 6 tablespoons ground mustard, ^ oz. tur- meric powder wet in cold vinegar; pour it all, scalding hot, over the pickles. PICKLED NASTURTIUMS.— Leave about 1 inch of stem on when they are picked; let them soak in strong brine for 3 days; drain, and soak them in cold water 1 day; drain, put in jars, and pour on boiling vinegar to cover; they need no spices. They can be used in a month, and will serve in- stead of capers if desired. The Nastuetium is a native of the east. It belongs to the same family as the cresses. The leaves are some- times added to salads. The flowers can be steeped in vin- wASTnuTiTiMS egar, thus forming nasturtium vinegar. 538 SOUR PICKLES PICKLED ONIONS — (1) Take nice onions, peel them, put in- to boiling water, and let them stew until quite cleai'; then remove them quickly, put them between cloths to dry, and then put them in glass jars. Take good vinegar, put in ginger and whole peppers, bring to a boil, and when cold pour over tjie onions, and tie up closely. (2) Select button onions, cover with scalding hot brine, and leave 36 hours; drain, put in jars, and cover with vinegar, poured on hot, and spiced as desired. PICKLED OYSTERS.— Take 1 quart oyster liquor, 7 table- spoons good vinegar, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and white pepper, 1 tablespoon of salt and 2 blades of mace; into this put 1 quart of oys- ters, and simmer 5 minutes; take them out, boil the liquor, skim it, and pour it over the oysters; can them while hot if you wish to keep them some time. PICKLED PARSLEY — Prepare a brine and thoroughly wash selected parsley in it; drain, shake dry, put into glass jars, cover with cold vinegar, containing 1 tablespoon of chopped horseradish to the quart, and tie up. It can be used for garnishing. PICKLED PEPPERS. — Take large green ones, and extract the seeds through a slit cut in the side, but leaving them whole; then put them in a strong brine for 2 days, changing it once; then put them in cold water for 1 day; drain, and pour on boiling hot, a solution of "I vinegar and ^ water; when cold, drain them, put into jars, and cover with strong cider vinegar, boiling hot. Tie up when cold. They are sometimes filled, before being put into the jars, with a stuffing made of cabbage head, chopped fine, sea- soned with salt and white mustard^seed mixed in well; then sew up, put in jarS; and cover with cold spiced vinegar. PICCALILLI.-— Slice 1 package of green tomatoes, add 2 cups salt, cover with water and let stand 24 hours, then put into fresh water; squeeze out of this and add 12 green peppers, 6 onions. 1 head of cabbage, chop all very fine, cover with vinegar and scald; then drain off, add 2 cups of molasses, 1 tablespoon cloves, allspice, and 2 oz. white mustard^seed, and cover with cold vinegar. GREEN TOMATO PICKLES.-Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes and let stand over night with a little salt sprinkled between them; in SOUR PICKLES 539 the morning put them into weak vinegar and scald; remove the toma- toes and when cold put in jars. Take strong cider vinegar to cover, add 1 cup sugar, 4 green peppers, mustard and spice to taste, bring it to a boil, and pour over the tomatoes. RIPE TOMATO PICKLES — Use the small yellow plum toma- toes; prick them with a coarse needle, pack in jars, and cover with hot cider vinegar, spiced or not as preferred. Cover close and keep in a cool place. PICKLED TURNIPS — Wash them, but do not break the skin or the juice will escape; boil them, and when done, pare, cut in slices ^ inch thick, and pour on spiced vinegar boiling hot. They are best eaten when new. PICKLED WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS.— Gather them when young enough to be pierced readily with a pin; put them in strong brine, and leave them 7 days, changing it every other day; then take them out, wipe dry, and pierce them with a large needle in a number of places; cover them for 8 hours, or over night, with cold water; then drain, and put in jars. Take enough cider vinegar to cover, and to each gallon allow 12 blades mace, 1 cup sugar, 36 black pepper = corns, 36 cloves, and 1 tablespoon allspice; boil 5 minutes and pour hot on the nuts; repeat twice, 3 days apart, and tie up. ORNAMENTAL PICKLE.— Take red beets, cook until tender, then peel and cut into dice, put in jars and cover with vinegar spiced to taste. Boil eggs 25 mintues, then drop into cold water; when cold, shell and put in with the pickles. FRENCH PICKLES — Take 1 peck of green tomatoes, 1 med- ium^sized cabbage, 6 large onions, 6 large peppers; chop all very fine, but let the tomatoes drain through a colander before adding the rest. Add 1 cup white mustard=seed, 2 lbs. brown sugar, 1 gallon strong vinegar, 2 tablespoons cinnamon, 1 tablespoon each of allspice, cloves and black pepper and ^ cup salt; cook ^ hour and put into a jar. RUSSIA PICKLES — Take 2 gallons cabbage coarsely chopped. 12 onions, 4 quarts green tomatoes chopped together, 6 green pep- pers, 1 oz. iDepper berry, 1 oz. celery seed, ^ lb. white mustard=seed, 1^ lbs. sugar, ^ gill salt, 4 quarts vinegar; boil all together until the cabbage and tomatoes are tender; then add ^ oz. turmeric. Can while hot. CHILI SAUCE. — Take 18 large tomatoes (not too ripe), 1 green pepper, 3 onions; chop fine and add 2 tablespoons of salt, ^ cup 540 SWEET PICKLES sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 teaspoon each of cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice; boil 2 hours and put in cans. CHOW CHOW. — Take 2 large heads of cauliflower, 2 quarts green peppers, 8 quarts green cucumbers, 8 quarts green tomatoes, 2 quarts small onions; slice about ^ inch thick, and sprinkle with salt in alternate layers of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers; boil th*e cauli- flowers about 5 minutes; let them stand over night, then strain all carefully and free from water. Then place in jars and make a sea- soning as follows: Take 1 lb. mustard, ^ lb. mustard=seed, ^ lb. whole allspice, ^ lb. whole black pepper, 2 cups brine, 1 gallon vinegar, 1 tablespoon curry powder; boil strongly 15 minutes, and pour over the vegetables. If too thick, add vinegar. Mix the. mustard with vinegar, and tie the spices all together in a muslin bag; they should all boil with the vinegar. Chow Chow No. 2 — Take equal amounts of green tomatoes and cabbage, -| the amount of onions, or less if preferred, and 1 or 2 green peppers; chop all together fine; then season with plenty of salt, a red pepper cut fine after removing the seeds, black pepper and a little white mustard^seed. Mix the spices well through the mass, pack in jars or bottles, and pour on cold vinegar. Keep it cool. It will be ready for use in a few days, will keep several weeks, and can be made thus without cooking. SWEET PICKLES. These are made from any of the fruits suitable for preserving, and also from some of the vegetables. The strength of the syrup used varies from 1 to 4 lbs. sugar to the quart of vinegar, as vinegar varies in strength and some people like it sweeter than others, but it is better to have the syrup rich. The best sugar to use is the best light brown or coffee " C " sugar; some use maple sugar. The spices generally used are cinnamon and cloves, although allspice, mace and ginger are sometimes added, and can be used by any who desire them. The spices should be tied in a muslin bag be- fore being boiled in the syrup, or they will discolor such fruits as apples, pears, etc. Apples, melon rinds, cucumbers and pears should be steamed until tender enough to pierce with a broom straw or fork before pouring the hot syrup over them, as it then penetrates them more readily. Smooth skinned fruits, like plums, etc., should be pricked with a needle before being cooked in the syrup. Peaches if very ripe SWEET PICKLES 541 do not need steaming, but otherwise they do. They are sometimes merely rubbed well with a cloth; some people wash them first with a weak lye, and some cooks peel them. The method of making sweet pickles is to prepare the syrup, bring it to a boil, put in the pickles, and boil until tender; then put into jars and put away when cold. Another way is to prepare the syrup and pour it boiling hot on the pickles; let stand until next day, drain off the syrup, boil it, pour on hot again, and repeat this for 4 or 5 days; then seal hot. Either plan works well. A Hint — Many people do not know that sweet pickles can be made from preserves of almost any kind. All that is needed is to take the syrup, add vinegar and any spices desired, boil it up, and pour it again on the fruit. PICKLED APPLES. — Peel and core them, and steam until tender; prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar to 1 quart of vinegar, add spices (tied in a bag) bring to a boil, put in the apples, let simmer quietly 2 minutes, then put in jars and seal. CRAB APPLES — Select good apples, take out the blossom end, steam until a fork will readily pierce them; prepare a rich syrup of 3^ lbs. sugar to 1 pint vinegar, add spices, and fin- obab apple. ish like sweet apples. PICKLED BEETS. — Boil them until tender, in a porcelain=lined kettle, and when cold slice them crossways, as the appearance is bet- ter than if cut lengthways; put in jars and pour on a hot rich syrup of vinegar, sugar, and spices to taste (put the spices in a bag), PICKLED BLACKBERRIES. Prepare a syrup of 2 pints vine- gar, 4 lbs. sugar, and ^ oz. each of cinnamon and cloves; bring it to ^ boil, put in 10 lbs. berries, simmer for ^ hour, and put into jars. Blueberries, Raspberries and Strawberries can be put up the same way. PICKLED RED CABBAQE.-Cut fine 8 heads of red cabbage, pack it in a crock in layers, sprinkling salt between each layer, and let stand over night. Then put 6 lbs. sugar in f gallon of vinegar, add 2 oz. each of allspice, pepper, cinnamon and cloves, and 2 table- spoons of celery seeds (tied in a bag); boil it and pour hot on the cabbage. PICKLED CANTELOPE.— Select melons which are neither soft, yellow, nor yet very green; pare, remove the seeds and soft inside, 542 SWEET PICKLES slice, and stick a clove with the blossom end taken off into each piece. Prepare a syrup of 3^ lbs. sugar to 2 quarts vinegar, and when it boils put in the melons and simmer until they are soft and transparent; then put into glass jars and pour on the syrup hot; leave until the next day and they will have settled a little, when fill again with the cold syrup left over, and cover closely. PICKLED CAULIFLOWER Cut the cauliflower into any shaped pieces desired, put them into strong brine, and leave 24 hours; then take out, boil the brine, and pour it on the pickles scald- ing hot; let stand until next day, and drain them out. Prepare a spiced vinegar, boiling any spices desired in it; let it get cold, and pour it cold on the pickles. PICKLED CHERRIES.— Stone and put into a jar 5 lbs. good ripe cherries, adding a few pits to flavor; take ^ oz. each of mace, cloves and cinnamon, 2 lbs. sugar, and 2 pints good ci- der vinegar; put all together, bring to a boil, and pour over the fruit hot. CURRANTS. — Put 6 heaping cups of sug- ar into 1 quart vinegar; add 7 lbs. currants, scald them, take them out and put in jars; boil the syrup a few minutes, and pour it hot over the fruit. Use only ^ as much vinegar if they are desired sweeter. CUCUMBER PICKLES. — Take ripe cucumbers, quarter them, remove the seeds, and soak in strong brine (keeping ihem well un- der) for 10 days; take out, soak 1 day in clear cold water, and then over night in weak alum water, and drain them out; take 1 quart of vinegar, 6 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons each of cloves, mace and cinna- mon (tied in a bag), bring to a boil, put in the cucumbers, and sim- mer until tender. PICKLED GRAPES — Take fresh, sound, ripe grapes, and pack them in jars; prepare sweetened and spiced vinegar, let it get cold, and pour over the grapes, covering them fully. PICKLED FIGS. — Make a hot pickle of sweetened cider vinegar; take ripe figs, peel them, put them in the pickle, and boil gently un- til tender. PICKLED PLUMS.— Gather the plums with the stalks, prick them with a needle, and put them with layers of cloves and cinna- mon into glass jars. For every 4 lbs. plums boil up 2 lbs. sugar and SWEET PICKLES 543 1 quart of vinegar, and pour it hot over the plums. Next day pour ofip the vinegar, boil it up again, and pour it over the fruit again; repeat this twice, then tie up, It improves by keeping. PICKLED PEACHES — If hard, steam them until tender; if soft, wipe them only; then pack them in jars. Take 1 quart of sugar and 1 tablespoon of cloves and broken stick cinnamon (tied in a bag) to each quart of vinegar; boil it 5 minutes and pour hot over the fruit; the next day turn it off, boil again, and pour hot on the peaches again; repeat once, seal up and put away. Pears and Quinces can be put up the same way, but the latter can be pared, cored and quartered before steaming, and the parings and cores used for making jelly. PICKLED PINEAPPLE — This can be pared, sliced, and boiled g^itly until tender; then put in jars and finished like peaches. PICKLED RAISINS. — Prepare a syrup of 1 cup sugar to 1 pint vinegar; put in 2 lbs. raisins, leaving the stems on, and cook gently 30 minutes; then put them into jars. GREEN TOMATO PICKLES.— Slice 1 peck green tomatoes and 6 large onions (or 1 quart of small ones ) ; sx^rinkle on 1 cup salt, and let stand over night; in the morning drain; then boil them 5 minutes in 2 pints vinegar and 4 pints water, and again drain through a colander. Then take 1 gallon vinegar, and 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. white mustard-seed, 2 tablespoons each of cinnamon, ginger and cloves, -If, 1 T 1 X ^ TOMATO. and b green peppers, chop^jed, or ^ teaspoon cayenne pepper instead; boil all gently 15 minutes, and pour over the chop- ped tomatoes and onions. They will keep a year or more. If de- sired, the onions can be omitted, and the tomatoes put up alone in the same way. Tomato Pickles No. 2 — -Take 1 peck sliced green tomatoes, and let them stand in strong brine all night; then drain, boil until ten- der, drain again and put in jars. Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar, jf oz. allspice, and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves to 1 quart vinegar; boil, and pour hot over the tomatoes. HUSK TOMATO PICKLES— For 7 lbs. husk tomatoes use 4 lbs. sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 2 teaspoons each of cloves, cinnamon and mace; prick the tomatoes instead of peeling, put them in a porcelain kettle with the sugar in alternate layers, heat slowly to boiling, add the vinegar and spices, and boil 5 minutes; take the fruit out with a 544 SPICED FRUIT perforated skimmer, and spread it on dishes to cool; when cool, pack it in glass jars, boil the syrup thick, and pour it boiling hot on the fruit. Examine them occasionally the first month, and if any signs of fermenting appear, set the jars uncovered in a kettle of water (with thick cloth under them) and heat until the contents are scalded. These are very nice. WATERMELON RIND.— Soak it in vinegar over night; then boil it in water until tender, and drain. Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag) to 1 quart vinegar, or to 1 pint vinegar if wanted very sweet; bring it to a boil, put in the rind, boil 5 minutes and put in jars. Citron can be put up in the same way. SPICED FRUIT. Some people confound spiced fruit and sweet pickles, but they are not the same. Sweet pickles are really a pickle, but spiced fruit is a spiced preserve, usually boiled down thick. SPICED FRUIT.— Sprinkle 1^ lbs. sugar over 3^ lbs. fruit and let it stand over night; then take the juice, add 1 cup vinegar, and cinnamon, mace and cloves to taste, and boil 15 minutes, then put the fruit in and boil 10 minutes and put in jars. SPICED APPLES — Take 2 cups vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, -I oz. cinnamon and ^ oz. of cloves; boil all together, and while boiling add 4 lbs. of apples which are pared, quartered and cored; let them boil about 20 minutes, or until tender; then take them out and put in a jar; boil the syrup down until thick and pour it over the apples. SPICED BLACKBERRIES.— Take 1 cup of vinegar, 2 cups of sugar, and 1 ta- blespoon each of allspice, cloves and cin- namon; add 2^ lbs. blackberries, bring to a boil, skim out the blackberries, and boil the balance for 1 hour; put back the ber- ries and boil 15 minutes; then put in jars and tightly cover. The Blackbebby is found in northern climates and well repays cultivation. » The root is astrin- blackbebby. gent and is used to check diarrhea. The fruit is wholesome and palatable. Its composition is 86.3^ water, 4.5^ sugar and 1.2^ free acid. SPICED FRUIT 545 SPICED CHERRIES — Boil together 2 pints vinegar, 2 lbs. sugar, and, tied in a bag, ^ oz. each of cinnamon, cloves and mace; then put in 5 lbs. tart cherries, having the stems left on, and boil 20 minutes. SPICED CURRANTS.— Take 4 lbs. sugar, 2 cups of vinegar, 4 teaspoons each of allspice, cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag); add 5 lbs. currants and boil 2 to 3 hours. SPICED ELDERBERRIES — Take 2 cups vinegar, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and cloves and 1 table- spoon of cinnamon (all tied in a bag), and boil; then add 6 lbs, elderberries, boil 2 hours, and put in jars. The Eldeebebry is widely distributed. The berries are sub=acid and sweetish with a rather unpleasant flavor. eldebbebkies. Some of the poorer German people use them in soups. The flower buds are sometimes pickled and used like capers. They are aperient, diuretic and sudorific medicinally. SPICED GOOSEBERRIES — Take 5 lbs. gooseberries, 4 lbs. sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 tablespoon cloves and cinnamon; boil 3 hours, then put in jars. SPICED GRAPES. — Pulp 7 lbs. grapes and scald until the pulps will pass through a sieve ; then put them in the preserving kettle, add 5 lbs. sugar, 1 quart vinegar, and ground cinnamon, cloves and all- spice to taste; let boil, add the skins, and boil 1 hour, or longer if they are wanted very thick. SPICED PEARS. — Take 2 cups vinegar and 6 cups of sugar, and put cinnamon, cloves and mace in a bag and boil all till nearly thick enough; then put in pears which have been nicely pared, and 3 or 4 cloves (without the heads) stuck in each one, and boil until they look clear; now put the pears in a jar, pour the syrup over, cover tightly, and they will keep indefinitely. SPICED PEACHES — Wipe 2| lbs. peaches and boil them until tender in 2 cups vinegar and 1 lb. brown sugar; then take them out and put in ^ oz. each of cinnamon, mace and cloves, boil them all well, and pour over the peaches. SPICED TOMATOES. — To each pound of ripe tomatoes (peeled) allow ^ cup vinegar, ^ lb. sugar, and spices to taste; boil all together gently until the tomatoes are cooked; take out the tomatoes and put them on a dish till cold, but let the syrup simmer; put back the tomatoes when cold, and cook till they are a dark red; then take them out and boil the syrup doMai thick. When cold, put in jars and seal. 35 546 CATSUPS AND SOYS CATSUPS AND SOYS. In making catsups use good sound fruit. See what we say about " The Utensils Used " in the introduction to our article on " Jams, Jellies, etc.," as that will apply also for catsups. Do not put these up in tin cans, but use glass or stone jars. If mold is found on top when the catsup is opened, it can all be removed, and the con- tents will not be seriously injured; but if mold is scattered in spots througliout the mass, it is worthless. If when a can is opened there is danger that the balance of the contents will spoil, it should be thoroughly heated. Vinegar can then be added if too thick. Catsups, like preserves, should be kept in a dark, dry, cool place. A few whole cloves laid on top will prevent mold from forming. APPLE CATSUP. — Take 12 tart, sound apples, pare and quarter them, and cook in very little water until soft; then pulp through a sieve; for each quart of this pulp take 2 cups vinegar, 2 medium- sized onions chopped fine, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teaspoons of cinnamon, 1 teaspoon each of mustard, cloves and pepper, 1 tablespoon salt; mix all together with the pulp, and boil 1 hour; pwi into jars hc'^,, and seal tight. CRAB APPLE CATSUP.— Take i peck of chopped crab apples (do not remove the skins), 3 cups of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 even tablespoon salt, 1 teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, pepper, and cloves. Cook slowly until soft; then put in jars. CHERRY CATSUP. — Take the pits from 2 quarts of nice large cherries; put 2 cups of vinegar w^ith 2 cups of sugar, a dozen whole cloves, and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon, broken coarsely, in the preserv- ing kettle, and boil the cherries 10 minutes. Set away in the kettle until next day; boil again 5 minutes and pack hot in wide mouthed bottles; cork tightly. A few whole cloves under the corks will pre- vent mold in the tops of the bottles. CUCUMBER CATSUP.— Grate the cucum- bers, drain them in a colander, and for each quart allow 2 cups vinegar, 4 tablespoons grated horseradish, 2 teaspoons salt, and ^ teaspoon cayenne pepper. Bottle without cooking, and seal. Some cooks cover it with vinegar alone; others add 1 large onion, chopped very fine. CURRANT CATSUP — Take 6 quarts of cucumbek. currant juice, 2 lbs. sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon each of cinnamon, allspice and salt. Boil half down; then add 1 cup vinegar. Gx)rk tightly. CATSUPS AND SOYS 547 ELDERBERRY CATSUP.— Pick 2 pints elderberries from the stalk, put in a jar, and pour over them 2 pints scalding hot vinegar; cover with window glass and set in the sun 2 days; then drain ofp the liquor and add 2 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon small pep- pers, 6 anchovies soaked and jjicked to pieces, 1 teaspoon salt, ^ tea- spoon cloves; boil 1 hour, stirring frequently, and keeping covered when not stirring; then take from the stove, let it cool, then strain, bottle, and seal. GRAPE CATSUP.— Take 6 lbs. grapes, boil in a little water and strain; add 3 lbs. sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 tablespoon each of cloves, cinnamon, extract of lemon, and salt; boil until thick, and bottle. GOOSEBEEBIES. GOOSEBERRY CATSUP. To 8 quarts of gooseberrries add 4 lbs. brown sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 2 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. cloves. Boil 4 hours slowly, and stir frequently. LEMON CATSUP. — Mix together 4 tablespoons of white mus- tard=seed, 2 tablespoons each of grated horseradish and sugar, 1 tablespoon each of white pepper and turmeric, 1 tablespoon each of mace and cloves, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pepper, 1 shallot minced fine; have the spices all ground fine, and sprinkle on 2 tablespoons salt. Add the grated rind and juice of 12 lemons, cover, and put for 3 hours in a cool place; then boil ^ hour, strain through flannel, bottle and seal. MUSHROOM CATSUP.— Put the mush- rooms in layers, with salt sprinkled on each layer, and let stand 4 days; then mash them fine, and to each quart add | of a teaspoon of black pepper, and boil it 2 hours in a crock set in boiling water; strain it from the liquor without squeezing; boil the liquor, and let it stand to cool and settle; then bottle and seal securely. OYSTER CATSUP.— Chop 1 quart of oysters, put them in a porcelain kettle with their liquor and 1 cup vinegar; bring to a boil, skim off the scum as it rises, and boil 3 or 4 minutes; strain through coarse flannel or a hair sieve, return the liquor to the fire and add 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 teaspoon each of mace and cayenne pepper; boil 20 minutes, and bottle when cold, sealing it well. MUSHKOOMS. 548 CATSUPS AND SOYS PEPPER CATSUP — Take 50 pods of large, red, bell peppers, seeds and all; add 1 pint vinegar, and boil until you can pull it through a sieve; then add to the pulp 1 pint vinegar, 2 tablepoons each of sugar, cloves, mace, allspice, salt and onions, and boil all to the proper consistency. Some cooks* omit the spices. TOMATO CATSUP. — Tomatoes for catsups are best gathered m August, as they become acid and watery later on. Select good toma- toes, scald and strain through a sieve; to each 2 quarts of the sifted tomatoes, allow 2| tablespoons each of black pepper, salt and ground mustard, 1 tablespoon of cloves, and 2 cups of vinegar; boil 3 hours and bottle for use. Tomato Catsup No. 2. — Take 1 bushel of tomatoes, 2 oz. salt, li oz. ground black pepper, 1 oz. ground cinnamon, ^ oz. ground cloves, IJ tablespoons ground mustard. Skin and slice the tomatoes, stew them until soft, rub through a sieve, and boil the pulp slowly until it is about the consistency of apple butter; then add 1 quart of vinegar to which has been added 1 cup of sugar and the above spices: boil up twice, bottle and seal. WALNUT CATSUP — Gather the nuts while they are young and tender enough to pierce with a pin easily; mash them to a soft pulp, and let them lie in salt water 2 weeks; drain them, cover with boiling vinegar, mix and mash them in it, and strain through a colander ; to each quart of the juice add 8 tablespoons each of pepper and grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of powdered cloves, 1 tablespoon of ginger; boil 1 hour, and bottle when cold. The Walnut is a native of Persia. In the south of Europe it is quite largely consumed, being there considered wholesome and nutritious. The unripe fruit, when the shell walnut. is soft, makes an excellent pickle. By boiling them in syrup a delicate sweetmeat is prepared. The oil pressed from the nut is sometimes used as a substitute for olive oil on the continent, and it is the nut oil used in painting. The matter left after the oil is extracted is nutritious for poultry or cattle. Grated walnuts are used in Spain for tarts and other dishes. SOYS. CURRANT SOY.^ — Take ^ gallon of currants and add 2 cups vin- egar, 1 cup sugar (heaped), 1 tablespoon mace, the same of allspice, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon and pepper; boil all together 1 hour, bottle and seal. Soy. — The genuine soy is made in Japan and China from the seeds of a plant called Dolichos Soja; the seeds are similar to our kidney bean, but are black. The soy is made by boiling the seeds until soft, adding wheat or barley, allowing it to ferment, and then adding an equal amount of salt. It becomes clearer with age. CATSUPS AND SOYS 549 There are many stories of its adulteration, some of them unfortunately being too true. It is much liked with fish. The term has now come, however, to be applied to a kind of catsup. GOOSEBERRY SOY.— Take 2 cups vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and 6 lbs. gooseberries; boil 30 minutes. QRAPE SOY — Take 5 lbs. grapes and let them simmer gently until soft; strain through a sieve and add 2 tablespoons each of all- spice and cinnamon, |- tablespoon each of cloves, grated nutmeg, and salt, 3 cups of sugar (heaped), and 2 cups vinegar; mix all thor- oughly, boil until thick, bottle and seal. PLUM SOY — Take 1 gallon of j)lums, boil gently until tender, rub through a sieve, and add 2 tablespoons of sugar, the same of salt, 1 tablespoon each of cloves, ground mustard and black pepper, and 2 cups vinegar; boil gently 1 hour, bottle and seal. GREEN TOMATO SOY.— Take 4 quarts of green tomatoes, sliced but not peeled, 12 onions peeled and sliced, add 4 cups sugar, 1 table- spoon each of cloves and allspice, 2 tablespoons each of black pepper, ground mustard and salt, and ^ gallon of good vinegar; boil gently, stirring frequently, until tender; bottle and seal. RIPE TOMATO SOY. — Peel and slice 4 quarts of ripe tomatoes, slice and add 7 onions, sprinkle on 1 cup salt, and let stand 36 hours, when drain ofp the liquor; then add 1 teaspoon red pepper, 2 teaspoons each of allspice, cloves, ginger and ground mustard, and ^ gallon of good vinegar; let it simmer quietly 2 hours and add ^ lb. white mustard-seed and 4 cups sugar; cook till done, then bottle and seal. VINEGAR. INEGAR (from the French vin aigre meaning literally sour wine) is a form of acetic acid, and its flavor varies according to the source from which it is obtained. Vinegar of the best quality is obtained from the grape, white wine vinegar being usually considered the best. Cider vinegar is derived from cider, and in the United States most of the vinegar was formerly obtained from this source. Its flavor is peculiar, and many prefer it- Vinegar is also made from barley, sour ale or beer, glucose, etc. Vin- egar containing 5 % of the pure acetic acid is called proof vinegar, and is the strongest that is used, but much of that sold in the market contains only 3% of the acid or even less. It is frequently adulter- ated with other acids like sulphuric, muriatic, etc. Many flavored vinegars used for culinary purposes are merely ordinary vinegar fla- vored with fruits, herbs or vegetables. We give elsewhere recipes for making a great variety of these. All vegetable juices can go through the acetous fermentation and produce vinegar. The process can be hastened by introducing a lit- tle ferment, like yeast. The fermentation takes place most readily at 70° to 90° F., but below 60° or above 90° the action begins to dimin- ish; boiling and freezing both stop it altogether. Vinegar can be made from any pure fruit jelly which has begun fermenting, or which will not " set." All that is needed is to add water and set it in a warm place, or exposed to the sun is best, covered with mosquito netting. Adding a little " mother," or yeast, will hasten it. Vinegar can also be made from cider or any pure fruit wine in the same way, but add a little sugar. Vinegar and yeast are best kept in glass vessels; glazed ware is not suitable, as their acids attack the glazing, extract its lead, and produce the poisonous acetate of lead. See what we say about "The Utensils Used" in our preceding chapter on "Jams, Jellies, etc." It will apply for vinegar, also. Mother of vinegar is a fungus, or low form of plant life (the Mycodermi aceti). A little of this put into a sweet or alcoholic solution will soon convert it into acetic acid or vinegar. The plant niay be divided and propagated to any extent. Vinegar can hardly be said to have any nutritive value, its office being to stim- ulate the nerves of taste, and to flavor various foods. It also has a powerful pre- servative action, preventing the decomposition of vegetable and animal sub- stances. 550 VINEGAR 551 APPLE VINEGAR. — When cooking apples, save the parings and cores (if sound ) ; they can be thrown into a jar from time to time, as they accumulate; add enough soft water to cover, and 1 cup of sugar or molasses to each 7 or 8 quarts of water; keep out insects by covering with netting; keep it in a warm place and it will form good vinegar. BEET VINEGAR — A good vinegar can be made from beets by extracting the juice, and letting it stand in a warm place, or exposed to the sun, covered with netting; a little yeast will hasten the process. CHERRY VINEGAR.— Into 1 quart of good cider jput 4 lbs. cherries, mashed, and add their stones, also; let stand 24 hours, and add 4 lbs. more cherries without their stones; let stand 3 days and strain (but do not squeeze) through a thin bag; add 1 quart of sugar to each quart of beet. juice, and boil gently 30 minutes; skim and bot- tle when cold. CIDER VINEGAR — To each 2 quarts of cider add 1 cup molas- ses and ^ cup yeast; keep covered where the temperature is 70° to 90° and it will soon make vinegar; then draw it ofp from the dregs, and keep in a jug, or bottles, tightly corked. Cider for vinegar, should be made from good sound apples which are not wormy or decayed. CLOVER VINEGAR. — Put into a jar 1 quart of molasses, and pour on 2^ gallons of pure soft water, boiling hot; as soon as it is barely lukewarm, add 2 cups hop yeast and 5 pints clover blossoms; cover and let stand a fortnight; then strain through cloth. CORN VINEGAR — Put into a jar 2 cups of corn cut from the cob, add 2 cups of molasses or brown sugar, and 4 quarts of pure soft water; set it in the sun covered with netting to keep out the insects; in 3 weeks it will make good vinegar, which is preferred by many people to cider vinegar. CURRANT VINEGAR — To 1 gallon of pure soft water add 3 cups brown sugar and 5 cups strained currant juice; keep in a warm place (from 70° to 90°) and it will form vinegar. Or, mash the cur- rants, let stand over night, strain, and let the juice stand in a warm place until fermentation ceases. White currants will make a deli- cate, pale vinegar. 552 VINEGAK GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR — Take ripe gooseberries, mash them, and to each quart add 1| quarts soft water, milk warm; let it stand 24 hours, strain it, and add 1 lb. coarse brown sugar to each quart; let it stand in a warm place in the kitchen, and in 2 or 3 months it will make fine vinegar. It will be superior to much that is sold as white wine vinegar. HONEY VINEGAR — Mix thoroughly into 1 gallon of warm soft water, 2 cups of clear honey; cover and let it ferment, when it will make good vinegar. MOLASSES VINEGAR — To each gallon of warm soft water add 1 pint molasses and ^ cup yeast; keep warm and in 3 weeks it will make vinegar. POTATO VINEGAR. — Take the water in which potatoes have been boiled, and to a gallon add ^ cup hop yeast and 2 cups sugar; cover with netting, let stand exposed to the sun or in a warm place, and in about a month it will make good vinegar. RASPBERRY VINEGAR — Put raspberries in a stone jar and add enough vinegar to cover them; let stand 6 days covered over, but stirring occasionally; then strain through flannel; add sugar pint for pint, boil ^ hour, skim, and bottle when cold. The Easpbeeby belongs to the same species as the blackberry. There are 2 kinds — the red and the white. The white is the rarer of the two. The juice is rich and abundant, and the fruit is wholesome and valuable to people of a nervous or bilious temperament. RHUBARB VINEGAR.— Crush the rhubarb, baspbebeies. cover with lukewarm water, and let stand 36 hours; then strain, add 1^ lbs. raw sugar or molasses to the gallon of juice, and also add a lit- tle yeast; keep it covered and in a warm place for 4 weeks; then strain, put in a keg and leave it to ripen. SORGHUM VINEGAR.— Use about 4 gallons of water to 1 gal- lon of sorghum; keep it in a warm place, or in the sun covered with netting, and it will turn to vinegar. Adding a little yeast will hasten the process. Tomato vinegar can be made of it by adding 1 gallon of ripe tomatoes at the same time that the sorghum is added. SUGAR VINEGAR.— To 1 gallon of water add 1^ lbs. raw sugar, and ^ pint yeast; keep it at about 80°; in 4 days it can be drawn off, when add 1 oz. each of cream of tartar and chopped raisins; in a few weeks it will be ready to bottle. VINEGAR 553 YEAST VINEGAR — Put into an open keg or jar 2 quarts of hop yeast sponge (set and allowed to get light as for bread); add 5 lbs. sugar or molasses, 5 gallons of soft water, and 2 quarts of corn which has been boiled until tender (adding it when cold); keep it covered and in 3 weeks it will make fine vinegar. AROMATIC VINEGAR.— Take 15 grains of oil of cloves, 10 grains oil of cinnamon, 5 grains of oil of lavender, 1 oz. of camphor, ^ pint glacial acetic acid; mix and bottle. Aromatic vinegar is a nasal stimulant useful for reviving and refreshing those who suffer from faintness and nervous headaches. SPICED VINEGAR.— Mix and tie in small muslin bags, 1 oz. each of allspice, celery seed, cloves, turmeric, mace, pepper, ground mustard and white ginger cut small; add 8 cups sugar and 1^ gallons vinegar; keep closely covered and use as needed. BEVERAQES. HEN it is remembered that abont 87% of the body consists of water, which is constantly evaporating and passing away, and which must be regularly renewed, the neces- sity and importance of beverages will be readily seen. Water is the most natural drink for man, and however it may be flavored or disguised it is the chief ingredient in all his beverages. Not less than 3^ pints a day are needed by an ordinary person, and those who are very large or active may need 4 or 5 pints daily. Al- though water is found in all the food we take, a large proportion of the needed amount must be taken in beverages. Although in hot weather cold drinks are very refreshing, and within proper limits are not objectionable, at other times they often chill the digestive organs and depress the nerve centers, so that there is reason as well as plea- sure in the use of hot drinks. TEA. Of all the beverages devised by man tea is probably the most extensively used. TO MAKE TEA. — Allow 1 teaspoon of tea for each cup water, and an extra one for the pot. This is the old rule, but it varies somewhat with the quality of the tea, less being required of the finer grades than of the cheap teas, and as the finer grades go farther they are not so much more expensive in the end. If much is made at once the proportion can be reduced a little. Pour boiling water into the teapot, and let it stand until the pot is heated through; then pour out the water, put in the tea, and pour on the water boiling hot, cover closely, and set for 3 to 5 minutes where it will keep hot but without boiling. English breakfast tea may stand 3, and black tea 5 minutes; then pour into the cups. ICED TEA (Bussian Becipe). — Tea for icing should be made gather stronger than when intended for drinking hot, letting the boiling water stand on the tea for 7 minutes; then pour the tea from the leaves, sweeten to taste, and stand it in a refrigerator for 5 or 6 hours. Serve it in a bowl with lumps of ice and slices of lemon floating in it. Have a pitcher of ice water at hand to weaken it for those who think it too strong. In serving it each person should receive a lump of ice and a slice of lemon. 554 BEVERAGES 555 Iced Tea No. 2. — For each tumbler of water allow 1 teaspoon of the best tea; put the tea, water and lumps of ice into an earthen ves- sel and stand in the refrigerator 5 or 6 hours. Easier than the for- mer method. ORANGE TEA — Slice a tart orange, peel and all, place a slice in each cup, and fill with hot tea. The Peinciples Involved. — Experiments have shown that five=sixths of the valuable qualities are extracted from tea by boiling water in 3 minutes, and in 10 minutes the leaves are nearly exhausted. If the leaves are steeped a second time, or if they remain too long in the hot water, the aroma is wasted, the tannin is extracted which makes the tea bitter, and it then disorders the digestion. Much of the evil wrought by tea is caused by this too long infusion which extracts a large part of its tannin. The object to aim at is to extract as much as possible of the theine and vola- tile oil, and as little as possible of the tannin. When the infusion is once com- plete, adding fresh tea adds very little to the strength; if more tea is wanted, empty out the old leaves, scald the pot, and make fresh tea as before. Essentials of Making Tea — The following are the 4 essentials for good tea: (1) Use good tea, and have the right amount of it. (2) Have the water boiling hot (not lukewarm) when poured on. (3) Have the teapot hot before the tea and water are put in. (4) Do not let it steep too long. Stewed tea is no good. If Tea Is Required Quickly, put it into the teapot and stand it in the oven while the water is coming to the boil; as soon as that is 60*7- ing hot pour it on the tea, and in a minute it can be served. The Teapot. — A china teapot is the best to use. Do not use tin, because a poisonous compound is produced by the action on the metal of the tannic acid of the tea. The teapot should be clean and dry before using. The Water Used. — In making tea the water used is an important consideration. Soft water is better than hard, but if it is too soft it is apt to extract too much of the general properties of the tea and sacrifice its delicacy of flavor, and if too hard it does not extract the theine and volatile oil readily enough. Do not use water which has been twice boiled, or which has boiled long before being used, be- cause boiling expels the air and gasses and makes the water flat and tasteless. This is really an important item — far more important than many people imagine. The more rapidly the water is heated the bet- ter the tea. When the watfer is poured on the tea it should be boiling hot, and not either cold or lukewarm, and it should be poured on as soon as it boils. If poured on cold and brought to a boil it will extract the tannic acid, injuring both the flavor and the value of the tea. Carbonate of soda has been sometimes used in making tea; it may soften very hard water, but it will spoil the flavor and effect of the tea. 556 BEVERAGES Hints. — With some persons the sleeplessness and headache caused by drinking tea is prevented by putting in a slice of lemon instead of the milk. Weak green tea with a little sugar and lemon juice in it, but no milk, is a very refreshing drink in cases of fever, taken either hot oi cold. The tea plant (Thea sinensis) is native to China, Japan and Northern India. The use of the dried leaves is said to have been introduced into China from Corea in the 4th century, and from thence to Japan, and to have been brought to Europe by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century. The leaves of the tea plant can only be gathered at certain sea- sons. The first picking is in April. It yields the finest tea, but little of it is shipped abroad, as a sea voyage injures its delicate flavor. This tea is largely used by the wealthy Chi- nese, and some of it is carried overland to Russia. The next picking is in May, and a third, later in the season, furnishes the inferior teas which are bitterer and more woody than that gathered earlier. Tea leaves are dried in pans which are heated over smoke- less fires. Green teas are dried quickly to preserve their color, wTiile black teas are exposed to the air for a time and undergo a sort of fermentation which darkens them. In tea producing . ^^*' countries the decoction is drunk alone without flavoring; in other countries something is added. The Germans often flavor it with rum, cinna- mon or vanilla. The Russians squeeze in lemon juice, while some savage tribes in Tartary boil the leaves with soda, season them with butter and salt, and eat them. Tea contains an alkaloid called theine, which is similar to the caffeine in cofifee, and theobromine in cocoa. Besides this it contains a volatile oil, some tannic acid, and some ordinary food substances. Its volatile or essential oil is developed dur- ing drying and roasting, and ought not to escape, as upon this its market value depends more than on anything else. The volatile oil, as well as the theine and tannin, is more abundant in green than in black tea. As ordinarily made, 3 times as much theine is obtained from tea as from coffee. The nutritive element in tea is very small, it being a stimulant rather than a food, but, "it aids the assimilation and transformation of other foods, increases cheerfulness and activity, clears and quickens the brain, and lessens the desire to sleep." It warms the body when coid, cools it when hot by promoting the perspi- ration of the skin, and has an astringent action on the bowels. Tea contains from 2 to 4^ of theine, about l^of essential oil, 14^ of tannin, and 20^ of nitrogenous mat- ter insoluble in water. Taken to excess it acts like a vegetable poison, and with young people it is liable to interfere with the proper development of the nervous system. COFFEE. It is safe to say that a large percentage of the people who use cojffee never drank a really first class cup of it, and a large proportion of the stuff served as coflPee is unworthy of the name. And yet good coffee is not difficult to make if it is handled intelligently. The water used should be fresh and clear. Long boiling of the water expels the air and gases, and makes it flat and insipid. It should therefore be used as soon as it boils, and this is a much more important item than many people imagine. Do not reboil the water, nor let it boil long before being used, or the best results cannot be obtained, BEVEKAGES 557 The roasting of the coffee is also an important matter. It is best roasted and ground just before it is used. If more is roasted than needed for immediate use it should be kept in an air-tight glass jar or canister; if exposed to the air it deteriorates. Unpleasant odors and moisture are readily absorbed by it, so keep it in a dry and clean place. To roast coffee, put the desired quantity into a perfectly clean, broad dripping pan; have a moderate heat at first, shake and stir frequently; after 20 or 30 minutes increase the heat and stir fre- quently until it is an even chestnut or " coffee color." If any berries are burned they must be picked out and thrown away, or they will spoil the coffee. Remember that the peculiar and delightful aroma of coffee is due to the changes in one or more oils produced by this roasting; in raw berries it is lacking. When properly roasted these elements constitute about 13% of the berry. If not heated suffi- ciently the aroma is not properly developed; if heated too much the flavor is again dissipated. When the berries are properly browned, lift the pan from the stove to the table and stir in 1 tablespoon of butter and the beaten white of 2 eggs to each pound of coffee, stirring it quickly and well that each berry may be glazed. This helps to develop the aroma, and also to confine it in the berry until let out by grinding. All the cof- fee which is not used at once should be put into a sieve, when cold, and shaken to break apart any berries which stick together; then put it into an air-tight canister. If coffee is bought at the store, roasted but not ground, each time any is used put into the frying-pan what you want for that meal, but no more; heat it over a quick fire until the aroma is perceptible, shaking it constantly and adding barely enough butter to gloss but not make it greasy; then grind it at once and use it. If it was ground at home and buttered, reheat it and use the same way, but without buttering it. This freshens it and develops its aroma. Re- member that the coffee should always go hot from the frying=pan to the coffee mill, and from the mill to the coffee pot, if you want the best results. If ground coffee is used, that can also be heated until the aroma is perceptible, before adding the water. Grinding the Coffee. — Be sure your coffee is ground right. Most grocers grind the coffee too coarse, so that much more coffee is used than necessary, because in coarse coffee the flavor is not readily ex- tracted. If you grind it yourself make it about like coarse cornmeal — not coarser than that. If your grocer grinds it make him grind it the same way. He may not like to, but it is the best and most eco- nomical way and insist on it. If it is too fine (say as fine as flour), on 558 Bt^VKKAaES the other hand, it will clog the strainer. It is too coarse if it is like rice or coarse oatmeal. Over=boiling. — The tannic acid in coffee should not be extracted or it will make the coffee bitter, and it will also disorder the stom- ach more; 5 minutes is the limit to which coffee should be boiled to avoid this, while 3 minutes is better. It is an erroneous idea that the longer coffee boils the stronger and better it is. After the caffeine and aroma are extracted, further boiling is a detriment. Cover the spout also when boiling coffee in a coffee pot, that the aroma may not escape through it. The one great object in making coffee is to ex- tract and retain the caffeine and aromatic essential oils, without ex- tracting the tannin, and any method which does this is a good method. The Cream and Sugar. — The milk served with coffee should be scalding hot, but should not be boiled. A pitcher of milk can be set in a pan of hot water and brought nearly to the boiling point day after day, without injuring the china. Some persons find the taste of boiled milk objectionable. Serve cream also if you can; 1 tablespoon of cream and 2 of hot milk is about right. If the coffee is very strong, fill the cup ^ to ^ full of coffee, and fill it up with hot milk; this is much better than diluting the coffee with water. Never fill a cup quite full — it must not run over. Allow each guest to add the sugar to his taste, unless it is one of the family whose taste you- know. A very pretty effect is produced by placing on the surface of each cup a teaspoon of whipped cream. Settling the Coffee. — Isinglass, fish skins, eggs and cold water are used to clear or settle coffee. Egg shells can be washed and saved for this purpose, 2 or 3 of them .being enough to clear a quart of coffee; they answer about as well as the egg, itself, and are less expen- sive. The Coffee Pot. — As good coffee as was ever tasted can be made with a common coffee pot, but some prefer a French biggin or some other device. Those who like these improvements and find them a help can use them, but do not imagine that they are really necessary in order to make good coffee, for they are not. But whatever coffee pot is used must be absolutely clean — not even milk pans require more scrupulous cleanliness. Every time the coffee pot is used it should be thoroughly cleaned, spout and all. If neglected, or if the coffee is allowed to stand long in the pot, a sort of black, greasy deposit will form on the inside, and it will spoil all coffee made in the pot while it is there. So wash, scald and dry the pot each time after being used. Dry BEVERAGES 559 each piece of a French coffee pot separately. Scald it out with hot water — cold water sets the greasy film, and is worse than useless. Do not use any soap or soapy water, hxxi fresh, liot water merely. If the pot has been neglected, and is coated, put in a tablespoon of washing soda, fill it with water, and boil it for a long time; then scrub it out well, rinse it with hot water, and dry it. Boil the strainers and all parts in the. soda water, and scrub them also. Do not heat the coffee pot too hot in drying it, or the next coffee made in it will taste burnt. Essentials of Making Coffee. — The essentials of making good coffee are the following: (1) Have good coffee, and use the right quantity of it. (2) Have it hot so that there is a perceptible smell of the aroma before it goes to the coffee pot. (8) Cook it just long enough to extract all the caffeine and aroma, without getting the tannic acid. (4) Serve it hot at once, and with hot milk. (5) Be sure the coffee pot is clean and in good condition. There are many ways of making coffee. It may be boiled or unboiled, made in a plain coffee pot or a French biggin or "grecque" and so on. While the object aimed at is the same in all cases, the modus operandi must vary with the coffee pot used, etc. We will explain a few of the best methods, with and without the biggin. But remember that by no process will the result be satisfactory unless good coffee is used, and, also, if you would have really good coffee you must take pains with it. If you will observe the princi- ples which underlie the process you can serve up most delicious coffee which will make glad the hearts of those who drink it. Amount of Coffee to Use. — Allow 1 heaping tablespoon of ground coffee for each cup of water; this is the standard rule, but if a large quantity is made the proportion can be a little less. FILTERED COFFEE WITHOUT EGG.— Have the coffee heated hot, pour on the water boiling hot, cover closely, let it stand 5 minutes, strain it through muslin (having it wrung out of hot w^ater) into the coffee pot (having that heated); cover it, set it on the stove and heat a moment (not boil) and serve. Have the milk thoroughly hot. The coffee may be heated in a pan or pitcher if more conven- ient. BOILED COFFEE WITHOUT EGG.— Scald the coffee pot; put in the coffee, pour on the water boiling hot, stir it well, bring it to a boil, move it to the back of the range keeping it hot, without further boiling; add ^ cup of cold water, let stand 5 minutes, turn out 1 cup coffee, pour back into the pot, do the same again, let stand 5 minutes 560 BEVERAGES to settle, and serve. Boiled coffee has a different flavor from the filtered, and many prefer it. BOILED COFFEE WITH EGG — Scald the coffee pot; put in the coffee and egg shell, (or the egg or isinglass if they are used instead); add the water, boiling hot, cover closely, and boil 3 to 5 minutes — no more. Set where it will keep hot but not hoil; pour in ^ cup of cold water; pour out 1 cup of coffee to clear the spout, and pour it back again; let stand 10 minutes, and serve. FRENCH COFFEE WITH COLD WATER — Heat the coffee, put it in the filter of a French coffee pot or biggin, add a very little cold water, a tablespoon at a time; let it stand 30 to 60 minutes, then pour in the balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time; when it has all filtered through turn it out, and pour it through the filter again; cover it tightly, and when ready to serve bring it just to a boil (never boil it) and serve immediately. Coffee can be mad6 thus at your leisure, and not heated until ready to serve it. FRENCH COFFEE WITH BOILING WATER Heat the cof- fee, put it into the filter of the biggin, and pour on just enough boiling water to moisten it well; let stand 5 minutes, and pour on the balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time, and wait 2 or 3 min- utes between each cup; if wanted very strong turn out the coffee and pour it through the filter again; serve at once. This coffee should never boil; the best way to avoid this is to set the coffee pot in a pan of boiling water while the water is being filtered through the coffee. COFFEE BY A SIMPLE METHOD.— Heat the coffee and tie it in a muslin bag; scald the coffee pot, suspend the bag in it, pour on the water boiling hoi (be sure it covers the bag), let it stand 10 minutes where it will keep hot but not boil, and serve. This answers some- what the same purpose as the French biggin, but can be used by those who do not have one. STEAMED COFFEE — This can be made in a double boiler kept for the purpose, or by setting the coffee pot in a pan of boiling water; steam 20 minutes, then strain it into a heated coffee pot, and serve. COFFEE WITH COLD WATER.— Let the coffee and water stand all night in an earthen or china pot, closely covered; in the morning bring to the boiling point merely, and serve. No clearing or straining is needed. CAFE NOIR — This is a French term meaning literally " black coffee." It can be made like other coffee, but very strong, using BEVEKAGES 561 twice as much coffee (2 tablespoons) for each cup of water. It is served in small cups with sugar, but no milk or cream are served with it. CAFE AU LAIT. — This is a French term meaning "coffee and milk." It is simply very strong coffee, to which is added a large proportion of good hot milk — half and half being the proportions. Sweeten to taste. VIENNA COFFEE. — This consists simply in adding to each cup of coffee 3 tablespoons of whipped cream. Equal parts of whipped cream and beaten white of egg are sometimes used. ICED COFFEE. — Make a quart of extra strong coffee and let it get cold; beat 2 eggs very light, stir into them 2 cups milk and 4 tablespoons cream; sweeten to taste, and stand in the refrigerator 5 or 6 hours. Serve with a lump of ice in the pitcher. If no refriger- ator is at hand the pitcher can be set for 1 hour in a pail of ice and salt (I ice to ^ salt); take care that it does not freeze. Iced tea can be cooled the same way. CARAMEL COFFEE. — Use caramel made as directed for " Pre- pared Caramel" in the article on "Colors for Frosting, etc.," in the chapter on "Cake." Add 1 teaspoon of good ground coffee for each ^ cup of .the caramel; let it boil for a minute, strain it, and add an equal amount of hot milk, or milk and cream. Children like it; so do " children of a larger growth." SUBSTITUTES FOR COFFEE.— Take 4 cups unground wheat or rye, add ^ cup molasses, rub all together with your hands, and brown it in the oven like genuine coffee. When used, grind and put it in a muslin bag and boil it in a coffee pot; very good and slightly nutritious. If desired, it can be mixed with genuine coffee when • used. Oatmeal, ground barley or graham flour can be browned and used also. In using them allow 1 tablespoon to a cup of water; moisten it with a little cold water, pour on the water boiling hot, and let stand 10 minutes. Corn Coffee. — Roasted sweet corn, browned without popping or hardening, is easily broken in a mortar, and makes a delicious drink for invalids, children, and those who cannot drink coffee. Try it. Cornmeal can also be roasted brown and used; boil 5 minutes and strain; a little salt can be added to improve the flavor. These substitutes for coffee contain no caffeine, nor anything similar to it, so that they possess no power as stimulants. Their value is simply that of hot water containing a little flavoring and nourishment, which is increased by the milk and sugar used. 36 562 BEVERAGES Coffee. — The origin of the use of coffee is involved in obscurity. It was not known to the Greeks and Romans. It was introduced into Europe in the 17th century. Mocha is an Arabian coffee. The brands from Central and South America were formerly considered inferior, but some of the best cofiEees now come from those regions. Maracaibo is often sold for Java, and is quite as good. Unground coffee is adulterated very little, but the ground coffee is almost universally adulterated. "Coffee," says Prof. Johnstone, "exhilarates, arouses and keeps awake; it counteracts the stupor occasioned by fatigue, by disease, or opium. It allays hunger to a certain extent; it gives to the weary increased strength and vigor, and it imparts a feel- ing of comfort and repose." It appears to make the brain more active, and the demand for food less, by checking the change and yjunnaa. waste of the body. Taken in excess, it produces tremors and contractions of the muscles, and an exhilaration somewhat like that of alcohol. It is not so stimulating as tea, and it does not increase the perspiration so much. It owes its stimulating effect to the caffeine and aromatic oils. It contains only about 1% of caffeine and 4^ of tannin, and is therefore less injurious than tea to the coatings of the stomach. Coffee loses 20 to 30^ in roasting, but the roasting accomplishes several things. It makes it brittle and easily ground; the aromatic properties are developed as previously explained; the tannin and other properties are rendered partly soluble in water, and its sugar is all converted into caramel; this gives color and part of the flavor to ttie coffee. The color and flavor may fee increased by mixing a little caram.el with the ground coffee, a fact which many people do not understand. Mixing Coffee. — Coffee can be mixed to obtain different flavors. Rio and San- tas are strong, while Java, Mocha, and Maracaibo are mild coffees. A rich, deli- cate flavored coffee is obtained by using }^ Java and % Mocha, and that is proba- bly the most popular mixture. Some mix them half and half. For a strong cof- fee use Rio alone, or temper it as desired by mixing some of the milder brands . with it. Some people like equal parts of Rio, Mocha and Java. Keeping Coffee. — Green coffee, that is the unroasted bean, not only does not lose its flavor but actually improves by keeping for 2 or 3 years. It can advanta- geously be bought by the sack when the market is favorable, and it should be of a yellowish or brownish shade and well seasoned. Store it in a dry, cool place. As coffee readily absorbs bad odors nothing strongly odorous should be stored near it; much coffee has thus been ruined. Chiooky. — This is prepared by cutting the roots of the chicory plant [Cicorium intibus) into small pieces and roast- ing them, much as coffee is roasted. It was first mixed with coffee by the Dutch, but is now used in all countries. While it is properly an adulteration, it is not deleterious. It does not possess any trace of the alkaloid caffeine, which is one of the peculiar properties of coffee, but it does possess an aromatic oil, starch, sugar (which will turn to caramel in roasting) nitrogenous substances and salts. It is used by some people as an independent beverage. It will give body, ohiooby. color and bitterness to coffee, and possibly modify its stim- ulant effect by acting as a diuretic, sedative and tonic. Some housekeepers add chicory to their coffee, using 1 to 4 oz. of chicory to a pound of coffee. Unfortu- nately, chicory is often adulterated, as well as coffee. CHOCOLATE. Whipped Cream is best to serve with chocolate. It can be whipped with a Dover egg beater, and | pint is enough for a dozen cups. TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.— Put the grated chocolate in a sauce= pan and dissolve it in a very little boiling water; then add the de- sired amount of cold milk, bring it slowly to a boil, and it is ready to serve. BEVERAGES 568 The Spaniards mix chocolate so thick that a spoon can stand up in it. Choc- olate is much improved by frosting, but to do this properly a French or Italian chocolatiere is required, with a whisk passed through the lid so that it can be whisked while coming to the boil. CHOCOLATE "MAILLARD'S STYLE."— Put into a saucepan I cup of sugar, a tablespoon of salt, 1 cup grated chocolate aud 1 cup boiling water and stir until smooth; then add 1 cup boiling water and 2 cups boiling milk and boil 1 minute only. In ^ cup of cold milk dissolve 1 level teaspoon of corn=starch; stir it in, boil 1 minute' more, take from the fire, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla flavor, and serve. The salt, corn^starch and vanilla add to its richness and flavor. CHOCOLATE WITH EGG.— Allow for each person 1 large ta- blespoon of grated chocolate ; put it in a sauce=pan and slowly add boiling water, stirring and boiling a little until it thickens; then pour in enough milk to cool it, sweeten with sugar, and stir in 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, using more or less as desired; make up the desired quan- tity by adding milk, or milk and water, and simmer, not boil, 10 minutes; flavor with vanilla and serve. If allowed to boil after add- ing the eggs they will become "curdled." CHOCA. — This is cafS cm lait and chocolate mixed in equal quantities. Many people like it for breakfast. COCOA. TO MAKE COCOA.— To \ gallon of water add 1 gill of broken cocoa, and let it boil gently until reduced ^ (about 2 hours); equal parts of shells and cocoa can be used if preferred. If it cools and the fat is taken from the surface, and it is then heated again, it will digest more easily. Serve with cream, or scalded milk, and sugar. Cocoa can be flavored by adding a little vanilla extract if desired. In Spain, cloves, cinnamon and musk are also used to flavor it. TO USE PREPARED COCOA.— Allow 2 teaspoons to a cup; add enough cold milk to form a smooth paste, then add equal parts boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all together well. There are many preparations of cocoa, some of which are recommended for preparation at the table, but all cocoa, is better for being boiled 1 or 2 minutes. Use hot milk to dilute it. COCOA SHELLS.— In use allow \ cup of the shells to 1 cup of water; pour on the water boiling hot and let them simmer gently 3 or 4 hours; as the water boils away add more; then strain, and serve. Sugar and cream, or hot milk, goes with it. . 564 BEVERAGES OOOOA BEAN. ICED COCOA. — Make the cocoa in the usual way, and for each 2 cups beat in ^ cup whipped cream; sweeten to taste, let stand till cold, and serve in glasses containing a little chipped ice. Cocoa is made from the seeds of the Theobromo cacao, a small tree which grows in Central and South America and the West Indies. (Theobromo means lit- erally " food of the Gods," a name given it by Linnaeus who was excessively fond of chocolate). The fruit is shaped something like a cu- cumber; the outside skin is thick, the pulp sweet and palatable; the seeds are much like almonds, with a thin skin, and the kernel is dark, bitter, oily and aromatic. Cocoa shells are the husks or shells. They contain little fat, but have more astringent matter than the seeds. They make a pleasant and wholesome drink, not stimu- lating, and well suited to nervous invalids and children. They need long boiling. An inferior cocoa is sometimes made by grinding the shells with the seeds. Cocoa nibs are the seeds freed from the husks, roast- ed and cracked, but not ground, although some of the fat is usually removed. Prepared cocoa is made by grind- ing the kernel to powder, removing some of the fat, and adding a certain amount of sugar and starch. Some of the husk is ground and added to. many of the cheaper cocoas, as an adulteration. The cocoa bean contains about 1% of theobromine, which is an alkaloid much like caffeine and theine; about 50% of fat; from lifo to 18^ of nitrogenous substance, J^ of which is soluble in water; 4:% of starch, and about 7% of an astringent princi- ple much like tannin. Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs ground into a paste by machinery, mixed with sugar, flavored, and pressed into molds of various shapes. It is the most con- venient and nutritious way of preparing cocoa. It does not stimulate the nervous system as much as tea and coffee do, and it is food as well as drink, satisfying hunger to some extent. Delicate stom- achs will digest it more readily if the oily scum is removed from the surface after it is boiled, but for healthy beople the scum is nutritious and need not be removed. Coca is the dried leaf of the Erythroxylon Co- ca, a plant resembling the blackthorn. It is used by the inhabitants of Peru and Bolivia, who chew the leaves and make an infusion of them. It is es- timated that 8,000,000 people use it, but it is little used in this country, except by a few cyclists or pedestrians. It derives its special properties from the alkaloid cocaine. It is a powerful stimulant to the nervous system and enables fatigue to be borne more easily for a time, but there is some uncer- tainty about the exact effects of its continued use. Mate, or Pabaguay Tea is prepared from the Brazillian holly. It is used in Paraguay and Bra- zil, but very little in this country. It contains 1 or 2% of theine, about 1&% of tannin, some aromatic oil, and gluten. It acts mainly on the nervous system, but also affects the digestive system. It is not suitable for general consumption, and is very injurious if habitually used. MISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES. APPLE WATER — Take tart apples, quarter and core; add ^ their weight of sugar, cover with water, and simmer till tender; strain through a jelly bag and cool. Put pounded ice in the glass when you drink it. MATE OK PABAGUAY TEA. BEVEEAGES 565 BLACKBERRY NECTAR — Crush the berries, add an "equal amount of water, and 1 teaspoon orange juice and 1 sliced lemon to each 2 quarts; let stand 4 hours, strain through flannel, and to 1 quart of juice add 1 cup sugar. Keen on ice till ready to serve. CHERRY ACID. — Dissolve 3 oz. citric acid in 1 quart water; pour it on a bowl of cherries and let stand 6 or 8 hours; strain off the juice, pour it over another bowl of cherries and let stand the same time; strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint sugar, boil, skim, bottle, and cork while hot. COCOANUT BEVERAGE — Break 2 cocoanuts, saving the milk carefully; grate the cocoanuts, add them to the milk and also 4 pints water; put in a sauce-pan, and boil 5 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon continually to prevent burning (it will ruin it to burn); then strain, add f lb. powdered sugar, and mix well. Ice it and serve. CREAM SODA. — Boil together, for 3 or 4 minutes, 1| quarts water, 4-| cups sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 oz. tartaric acid; when cold, add the well^beaten whites of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of flour blended in ^ cup cold water; flavor to taste, bottle, and keep cool. To use, put 2 tablespoons in f tumbler of water, add a salt- spoon of soda, and drink when it effervesces. CURRANT SHRUB — Mash the currants, strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint sugar, boil 10 minutes, and bottle when cold. If used at once it need not be boiled. CURRANT WATER. — To 2 cups red currant juice add ^ cup raspberry juice, 2 cups white sugar, and 2 pints water. GRAPE JUICE AND ALMONDS — Take 6 oz. sweet almonds; blanch and pound in a mortar, working in 2 cups grape juice and 1|^ cups white sugar; then add 1^ quarts water, and when all are dis- solved, filter it. Ice when used. GRAPE WATER. — Squeeze 4 lbs. grapes through a coarse cloth, and add ^ cup of white sugar and 1 pint water to the juice. Serve with crushed ice in the glass. JELLY BEVERAGES — Almost any jelly dissolved in ice water and sweetened to taste makes a pleasant drink. Most summer drinks are improved by adding a little orange juice. KOUMISS. — Take 6 cups sweet milk and 3 tablespoons of sugar; add 2 tablespoons of yeast and set in a warm place for a few hours until it ferments and the bubbles rise all over the top; then stir well 566 BEVERAGES for 3 minutes, bottle and fasten the corks. Keep cold (on ice is the best) and use at once on being opened, as it soon spoils on exposure to the air. It can be used in 2 days, but it is better after 1 week. It will keep for months if kept cold. GINGER BEVERAGE. — To 4 cups water add 1 scant cup vine- gar, 3 large tablespoons sugar, and 2 teaspoons sifted ginger. Use lemon instead of vinegar if preferred, (2) Another recipe is 4 cups milk, 4 cups water, and 1 tablespoon'of ginger. Or (3) take ^ cup of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons ginger; stir thoroughly together, put it in a quart pitcher and fill it with water. GiNGEB is the root of a plant deriving its name from the mountain Ginger, in Hindoostan, of which it is a native. It now comes chiefly from the East and West Indies. It is dug up in January or February, scraped, washed, and carefully dried. It contains starch, gum, an acid resin which gives its hot taste, and a volatile oil which gives its odor. The best comes from Jamaica. There are 2 kinds — white and black; white is con- sidered superior. It is aromatic, stimulant, and in hot weather is valuable as a medicine. It is less heating to the system than might be expected from its taste. GOOSEBERRY SHRUB — Take green gooseber- ries, pour on boiling water to cover, let stand till cool gingeb. with a cloth spread over the jar; strain off the juice, heat it, and pour on again; then strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint sugar; boil, skim and bottle. LEMONADE. — Squeeze the juice from lemons, add a little of the thin yellow rind, with water, and sugar enough to sweeten to taste. Adding ripe strawberries, mashed, is a great improvement to lemonade. So also is adding either grated or sliced pineapple. Remember in using either lemon or orange peel that the thin yellow rind (called zest) is all that is used; the white part of the rind is bitter a,nd injurious. Boiling water is sometimes poured over the thin yellow rind and allowed to stand a while; then the lemon juice, water and sugar are added. Coffee Lemonade. — Make coffee as for breakfast; when cold, strain and use it instead of water in making lemonade. It is healthful and refreshing in hot weather. Effervescing Lemonade. — Into 2 cups granulated sugar work 30 drops of oil of lemon and sift; then sift in 2^ oz. tartaric acid, and 2^ oz. carbonate of soda; keep dry in air-tight bottles. To use, stir 2 table- spoons into a glass of ice water. Invalid's Lemonade. — Into a glass of water put a few drops lemon extract, and 2 tablespoons of lemon sugar. It can be made when lemons are not attainable. BEVERAGES 567 Milk Lemonade. — In 4 cups boiling water dissolve 3 cups white sugar; add 3 cups milk and 1 cup lemon juice. Portable Lemonade.— Mix thoroughly 6 oz. powdered sugar, 1 oz. powdered tartaric acid, and 1 drachm essence of lemon; dry thor- oughly, divide into 24 parts and wrap each one in paper; each pow- der will make a nice glass of lemonade, and can be used at any time. Lemon belongs to the citrus family, and is a native to the north of India. It was unknown to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and was introduced into Europe during the crusades. It is now widely naturalized. Its acidity is due to the presence of citric and malic acid in the juice. • It also contains 3 or 4^ of gum and sugar, and some albumienous matter, and a little potash and phosphoric acid. Lemons with thick rough skins are almost certain to be dry and spongy, so choose those with thin, smooth skins. Persons of bilious and sanguine temperaments may freely drink the lemonade made from its juice, but those with irritable stomachs should avoid it on account of its acid and there- fore irritating qualities. • VINEGAR WATER.— A little vinegar put ^^^°^- into cold water, and then sweetened to taste, makes a pleasant bever- age in hot weather. It is more refreshing and healthier than to drink large quantities of clear water. (It is the presence of the citric acid in lemons which makes lemonade so refreshing and heaHhful, and the acetic acid in vinegar serves much the same purpose). • MEAD. — Take 6 cups sugar, 2 cups molasses, ^ lb. tartaric acid; pour on 3 pints boiling water, stir till dissolved, let cool, and add 1 spoonful essence of sassafras, or flavor with fruit juices; then bottle for use. To serve, put 2 tablespoons into a tumbler f full of ice water, add J teaspoon of soda, stir it, and drink while foaming. OATMEAL DRINK.— (1) Dissolve I cup of oatmeal in a jug of water; let settle, and drink cold. (2) Take ^ lb. sugar, ^ a lemon, sliced small, and -| lb. fine oatmeal; mix them with a little warm water first, and then pour on 4 quarts boiling water; stir well together, let settle, and use cold. Any other flavoring can be used instead of the lemon if desired. (3) Mix together gradually, in 4 quarts of boiling water, ^ lb. sugar, ^ lb. fine oatmeal, and 4 oz. cocoa. Use when cold. About Summeb Dbinks. — In hot weather there is nothing which quenches the thirst better, or which is more healthful and refreshing than oatmeal drinks. If laboring men, harvest hands, etc., would use them more it would be a great advan- tage to them. For heavy work they are far better than either beer, cider or spirits. Boil the oatmeal if possible; if not mix it with cold water. When heavy work is to be done without time to stop and eat, make it stronger. It can be used cold in summer and hot in winter. Cold coffee is thirst=quenching; so is cold tea, but neither equals oatmeal. Cocoa is refreshing and nourishing. 568 BEVERAGES ORANGEADE. — (1) In 1 cup boiling water infuse tlie thin yel- low rind of 2 oranges; then add f cup of sugar and the juice of 6 oranges; ice before serving. (2) Tako 1 lemon and 4 oranges, slice crossways, put into an earthen jug, add 4 cups boiling water, and let stand 1 hour, covered; then pour off, and ice before serving. ORQEATE — Blanch and pound in a mortar ^ lb. sweet and ^ oz. bitter almonds, working in gradually 2 tablespoons of orange flower water; then work in ^ pint rose water and 1^ cups pure water; strain, and add 3 cups simple syrup. Put it in a sauce^pan, boil up 1 min- ute, remove at once, and bottle. To use, add 1 tablespoon to a tum- bler of ice water, soda, or seltzer water. PINEAPPLE BEVERAGE — Take 1 pineapple, peel, slice, and pound to a pulp. Take 2 cups water, add f lb. sugar, boil, skim, and pour it hot on the pineapple pulp; add the juice of a lemon, and let stand 2 hours covered; then filter through cloth, and add 2 pints cold water. Ice when served. PERSIAN BEVERAGE — Take 1 cup rose=^water, 4 tablespoons of orange flower water, 2 cups strawberry juice, and 2 cups simple syrup; mix well together. Ice it when served. RASPBERRY ACID — In 4 pints water dissolve 3 oz. tartaric acid; pour it over 4 quarts raspberries and let stand 24 hours; strain without pressing, and to each pint of juice add 1^ lbs. of sugar; stir till it dissolves, let stand 48 hours; bottle and seal. To use, put a little into water. RASPBERRY WATER — Take 2 cups raspberry juice, 1 cup red currant juice, 2 cups sugar, 2 pints water; mix well. RED RASPBERRY SHRUB.— Pickle the raspberries in white wine vinegar for 1 week; strain through a jelly bag, and to each pint of juice allow 1 pint sugar; boil gently ^ hour, and bottle. Use 2 or 3 tablespoons of the shrub to a glass of water. Raspberry Shrub No. 2. — On 3 quarts fresh berries pour 4 cups cider vinegar; let stand 1 day, strain, and pour the juice on 3 quarts fresh berries; let stand 24 hours, strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, and bottle when cold. Use 2 or 3 table- spoons to a glass of water. Strawberry Shrub is made the same way TAMARIND WATER.— Take 2 o/ tamarinds, 1|- cups raisins, 1 cup sughi (scant); boil them in 1 gallon of water till tamabinp. it is reduced to 3 quarts; strain and cool, BEVERAGES 569 STRAWBERRY ACID.— In 2 pints water dissolve 2 oz. citric acid; pour it on 4 quarts ripe strawberries, let stand 24 hours; strain without pressing, and to each pint of juice add 1-| lbs. sugar; boil 10 minutes, let stand 3 days, and bottle. To use, put a little into water. STRAWBERRY WATER.— Take 1 lb. ripe strawberries and 1 cup sugar; mash them together and add 1 cup cold water. Strain and add the juice of 1 lemon. TISANE — Take 2 oz. dates, figs or prunes, cut them up, add 5 cups water and boil 1 hour; strain through cloth and serve ice cold. Dilute with cold water if desired. TOMATO BEVERAGE. — Steam the tomatoes, mash them, and strain through cheese cloth; add f lb. sugar to each quart of juice and let stand 8 or 10 days; then drain the liquor from the settlings, bottle, and cork tight. It improves with age. To use, add 1 or 2 tablespoons to the pint of water, and sweeten to taste. A little lemon juice will improve it. TUTTI FRUTTI — Take 1 tablespoon mashed strawberries, 1 peach, cut fine, 1 tablespoon pineapple, cut fine, the juice of ^ a lemon, 1 tablespoon of sugar; mix well, strain through a jelly bag, mix with pounded ice and pour on water. CIDER. — To improve cider, strain it through flannel while new and sweet, and put into each barrel ^ lb. white sugar, and suspend a bag of raisins in it. If acidity appears in cider, add a little bak- ing soda, which neutralizes the acid, but add it on the first appear- ance of acidity. If cider turns black it is caused by the presence of oxide of iron which turns dark on exposure to the air; adding a little tartaric acid will usually correct it. GINGER POP. — Infuse 8 oz. bruised root ginger in 5 gallons boiling water; add 4 lbs. sugar, and 2 oz. cream of tartar, and 1 oz. tartaric acid; when lukewarm, strain, add 1 quart yeast, and 1 bot- tle lemon essence to flavor; let stand over night and bottle. LEMON BEER — Into 2 gallons of boiling water put 2 lbs. sugar, the thin yellow peel of 2 lemons, and 1 oz. bruised ginger; when lukewarm add ^ pint yeast; let stand over night, or a little longer, to ferment, and bottle. MILK BEER — Into 4 cups water put ^ cup of buttermilk and 3 tablespoons of sugar, and let it stand in a warm place 10 hours; then pour from 1 vessel to another until smooth; bottle and let stand a day. Serve ice cold. 570 SYKUPS SPRUCE BEER. — Into 4 gallons of water put 3 lbs. sugar, | oz. essence of spruce, a little zest of lemon, 1 oz. ginger, and ^ pint of yeast; let stand 24 hours, and bottle. SYRUPS. Fruit syrups are made by adding enough sugar to fruit juices to preserve them. Fine flavored fruit should be used, because syrup of fine flavor cannot be made from fruit lacking flavor. Decayed fruit also will affect the flavor of the syrup, and should not be used. If fruit juice is allowed to stand 2 or 3 days until fermentation begins, it will change the pectose it contains so that it -will not jelly, and jellying is not desired with fruit syrups. They should be made in granite, porcelain or aluminum kettles, as the acids the fruit juices contain will act on other metals and change and injure the color of the syrups, while in metals like brass, tin, and copper they will also develop poisonous compounds. If boiled hard, or heated too hot, it will injure the flavor and color of the syrups. A double boiler is the best to use to prevent this. Stir syrups with a wooden spoon. Fruit syrups can be used when fruits are out of season, and they not only make delicious drinks, but they can also be used for pud- dings, water ices and ice creams. They are best kept in a dark, dry and cool place. SIMPLE SYRUP — Take 2 quarts water and 7 lbs. white sugar; heat gently until dissolved, and strain BARBERRY SYRUP.— Take good ripe bar- berries, strip them, and put them in a porcelain kettle with water enough to cover them; let them simmer gently, but do not boil or burn them, and when done squeeze out and strain the juice; allow 1 quart sugar to 1 pint of juice and set the pitcher holding them into a pan of boiling water until the sugar is dissolved; then bottle it, bakberbies. BLACKBERRY SYRUP.-Take | gallon black- berry juice, add 4 cups white sugar (heaping), | oz. each of allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg, and ^ oz. cloves; pulverize the spice, boil all for ^ hour, strain, and when cold, bottle and cork closely. CHERRY SYRUP — Bruise 6 lbs. cherries with the stones in (breaking them); add 3 cups hot water and boil ^ hour, strain SYRUPS 571 through a jelly bag, add 3 lbs. sugar, and boil until it will sink to the bottom of a cup of water when dropped from a spoon; then turn into jelly cups and cover with paper dipped in the white of egg. To use for a drink, put a spoonful in a glass of water, let stand 10 minutes, stir it, and fill with pounded ice if you have it. CURRANT SYRUP. — Mash the currants, cover them over, and let them stand 3 or 4 days to ferment; then strain through a jelly bag, and allow 2 lbs. sugar to each pint of juice; dissolve the sugar slowly (in a fa- rina^boiler is best, as there is no danger of its burning), and then let it become cold, put it in small bottles, filling them full, seal tightly and put away. Raspberry Syrup can be made the same way. ^ The Raspbeeey in some form is found throughout Europe and America. There are 2 kinds — the red and white, the former being most common. The juice is very wholesome and valu- baspbebby. able to people of a nervous or bilious tempera- ment. LEMON SYRUP — In a porcelain pan dissolve 2 lbs. white sugar and 2 cups cold water, and let it boil 2 minutes; then add the juice of 4 lemons, and ^ oz. tartaric acid; after it has cooled a little add ^ teaspoon lemon essence. When quite cold, bottle it. Lemon Syrup No. 2. — Rub the yellow rind of 6 lemons with 1 lb. lump sugar; moisten the sugar with as much water as it will absorb, and boil it to a clear syrup; to this (without letting it boil any more) add the juice of 1 doz. lemons, stirring it beside the fire; bottle at once, and cork when cold. Lemon Syrup No. 3. — Mix 4 cups water and 2 lbs. sugar, and boil till clear; when cool, add 1 teaspoon essence of lemon and 1 oz. cit- ric acid, and bottle when cold. ORANGE SYRUP — Select fine, ripe oranges, extract the juice, and to each pint add 1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, and bottle when cold. An excellent flavor for sauces, as well as a delightful drink. ROSE SYRUP — Take | lb. rose leaves, pour on 1 pint of boil- ing water and let stand till next day; strain through muslin add 2 lbs. sugar, and heat in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved; let it cool, and bottle when cold. 572 SYRUPS but do not allow the SABSAFABIIiljAv For Violet Syrup use violets in like manner calyx or stalks to be mixed with the leaves. SARSAPARILLA SYRUP — Into 5 quarts of water put ^ lb. Spanish sarsapa- rilla, and boil until it is reduced to 2 quarts; add 2| oz. tartaric acid and 4 lbs. sugar; mix, boil 3 minutes and bottle. To use, put 2 tablespoons in a glass of water, add a little soda, and drink when it efPer- vesces. Sabsapakilla is a native of Central America. There are several varieties. The roots appear in bundles 12 to 18 inches long, and 4 or 5 in breadth. The taste when chewed is bitter and even acid. It has been used as a remedy in a great variety of diseases and in certain broken down conditions of health it appears to do much good. STRAWBERRY SYRUP — Wash the strawberries, and strain through a jelly bag; prepare a syrup and bring it to the "soft ball degree " as directed in " Candy Making," and to each pint of the syrup add 1 pint of the strawberry juice; bring it to a boil, skim, and remove from the fire. Bottle and seal when cold. Pineapple Syrup can be prepared by gradually adding strained pineapple juice to the syrup, instead of the strawberry juice, and finishing the same way. TOMATO SYRUP — Take good ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the juice, and to each pint of juice add ^ lb. sugar; bottle and set away. No alcohol is needed to preserve it. It will keep for years, makes a delightful beverage for the sick, and will resemble pure wine in flavor. VANILLA SYRUP — Take 2 quarts of simple syrup, into some of it rub ^ oz. citric acid, add ^ oz. fluid extract of vanilla, and mix all; then bottle. WINTERGREEN SYRUP — To 2| quarts of simple syrup add 25 drops oil of wintergreen, and burnt sugar enough to color it. ARTIFICIAL HONEY.— (1) Take 10 lbs. good brown sugar, add 4 lbs. water and gradually bring it to a boil, skimming it well. When it has become cooled, add 2 lbs. bee's honey and 8 drops of peppermint. A better article can be made with white sugar in- stead of brown, with 1 lb. less of water and 1 lb. more of sugar. INVALID COOKERY. HILE in robust health the appetite is undoubtedly an ad- mirable guide in the choice of foods, but when debility and disease are present, intelligent knowledge of the properties of different foods is necessary, and experience should guide in administering them. Ignorance in a sickroom is most deplorable, even when accompanied by the utmost family affection. In many disorders a knowledge of dietetics is as impor- tant as a knowledge of materia medica, for the action of a medicine may be counteracted by unsuitable diet. When a patient is very sick the diet is prescribed by the doctor, and his directions in regard to the foods to be given should be carried out quite as implicitly as they are in giving the medicine, for they are usually quite as im- portant. Many persons have a superstitious faith in the cravings of the sick and will disobey the doctor to gratify the patient, but this is very unwise, as in disease the appetite is not a safe guide, and many a patient has been seriously injured or even killed by such folly. In some cases, (notably after fever) the patient develops a surprising appetite which, in the state of his digestive organs, it would be dan- gerous to gratify. Other patients will actually sink from exhaustion while refusing all food. Still, if a desire for any particular article is expressed it would be well to call the doctor's attention to it, as it may be a valuable indication of the needs of the system. In general it may be said that in feeding the sick 2 objects are kept in view : ( 1 ) to choose the food which will give least work to the part of the digestive canal which is most deranged; (2) to com- pensate for the waste or drain upon the system. The doctor should thoroughly understand the process of digestion, the needs of the sys- tem and the composition of foods, and be able to make the selection of foods more skilfully than an untrained person. It is sometimes thought that when a person is ill he should be coaxed or coerced into taking as much food as possible, but it should be remembered that it is only the food which is assimilated by the system which is of any real benefit to the patient, and to overload the feeble digestive or- gans, will impose a burden that will be a positive detriment; there- fore in case of serious illness, get directions from the doctor regard- ing the quantity as well as kind of food to be given. The prepara- tion and cooking of food should be thoroughly understood by a good 573 574 INVALID COOKERY nurse, so that should any dish be sent from the kitchen imperfectly IDrepared, directions can be given how this can be remedied. The conditions of different patients vary so greatly (one may be suffering from an acute disease like a fever, while another has some lingering chronic disease; one may be suffering from over=w^ork and nervous prostration, while another suffers from a lack of exercise, and so on) that it is evident that no exact rules can be given which will apply to all cases, but the following hints in regard to sickroom feeding may be suggestive to our readers. (1) Give little food and often. What is eaten with a relish does more good than twice as much swallowed with disgust, so do not urge a patient to swallow large quantities at once; but remember also that very sick people often refuse to swallow anything, though they may be actually sinking for want of food. (2) Let the food come at stated times and punctually. A con- valescent looks forward to meals as the great events of the day, and frets and worries if they do not come on time, and a very weak patient may faint and flag if instead of an hour it is 20 or 30 minutes longer than that, between the times of feeding. If obliged to wait long, a patient may lose the desire to eat, and turn against the food when brought. (3) As a rule, patients should not be awakened to be fed, though it may sometimes be necessary to do so. Amateur nurses often forget to feed patients in the small hours of the morning, al- though at that time the patient's strength is at the lowest ebb. (4) When there is no appetite, give such food as affords the most nourishment for the least work to the system. When very weak, the exertion of eating is quite a tax, so put the greatest amount of nourishment in the least space. (5) Endeavor to give the food most appreciated by the patient, provided it is not injurious. Do not let a convalescent know before hand what the bill of fare will be, as surprises are often very pleasing to him. (6) For a convalescent the food should be as varied as possi- ble, for invalids easily tire of the same thing. If the food may not be varied the mode of serving it may, and a stray flower or a new plate is better than no variety at all. (7) For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they seldom require much at a time. Only as much as the patient is likely to eat should be taken into the sickroom, and at once remove what remains. Never leave food at the bed=side or about a sickroom; if the patient cannot eat it, take it away and bring it again in 1 or 2 INVALID COOKERY 575 hours. As a rule nothing made for an invalid is fit to be used a day after it has been prepared, and neither food nor drink, except in cases of absolute necessity, should be kept in the invalid's room, as the air and temperature are apt to hasten decomposition. (8) In case of infectious fevera all remains of food should at once be burned, and on no account be eaten by another person. The nurse should not eat in the sickroom. (9) Have every thing tempting in appearance and daintily served. See that the linen is spotless, and the prettiest china used to hold the sick one's food. Never give an invalid soiled or crumpled napkins. (10) Do not put a very little broth in a very large basin. If a limited amount of drink is to be given it is better to put the right amount in a small glass than to hand a large glass full, and tell him how many swallows to take. Gruel served in a tumbler is more ap- l^etizing than when served in a basin or cup and saucer. It is better not to have a cup more than |- full, and then it will be less likely to spill over. Never have anything spilled into the saucer on handing an invalid a cup and saucer. Little things like these tell on the sen- sitive nerves of an invalid more than many people think. (11) Sponge the hands and face of an invalid carefully before serving any meal. (12) If a feeding cup is used, scald it carefully and keep it quite clean; warm it before using it for hot food. Keep one for milk, and lay that in water; have a separate cup for beef tea and broth. When much fever is present very little gastric juice is secreted, and therefore at the commencement of a fever there is little craving for anything but cold water. All nourishment given in high fever should be in fluid form, and it is very doubtful if starch can then be converted into sugar. Lemonade is agreeable as the acid taste pleases the patient's palate, and the sugar passes into the system without digestion or making any demands on the powers of the stomach, and various other drinks can be given. As the fever subsides the gastric and intestinal juices are sufficiently secreted to digest farinaceous foods, and the medical man can decide in each case what articles are most suitable. By degrees the patient is able to satisfy his natural ap- petite, convalescence becomes more rapid, and by=and=by steaks and other food can be eaten again. This would be dietetic regimen. The following quotation from Dr. Pavy's " Treatise on Food and Dietetics," will be of interest and value. Regarding the foods which may be given patients as convalescence advances, he says: " In feb- 576 INVALID COOKERY rile, acute, inflammatory, and other conditions where an absence of digestive power prevails the food should be confined to such ar- ticles as beef tea, mutton, veal or chicken broth, whey, calf's foot, and other kinds of jelly, arrowroot, and such like farinaceous articles, barley water, rice, mucilage, gum water, fruit jelly, and the juice of fruits, as lemons, oranges, etc., made into drinks Where a little latitude is allowable, the employment of milk and eggs in a fluid form may be sanctioned. Bread jelly, which is made by steeping bread in boiling water and passing it through a sieve while still hot, is also an article that may be used either alone or boiled with milk. From this, as circumstances permit, an advance may be made to sub- stances which do not throw much work on the stomach, such as rice, sago, tapioca, bread and custard puddings, and stale bread and toast sopped. Next may be allowed fish .... which should be boiled or broiled, and not fried. As power becomes restored, calves' feet, chicken, game and butcher's meat — mutton to begin with — may be permitted to follow," and so on till ordinary diet is reached. The object is to convey fuel foods (carbohydrates) to the system, and only enough albumenoids (flesh formers) for repairing the tissues. Later, an abundance of albumenoids will be needed to rebuild the wasted tissues. In cases of fever, pure milk as the main article of diet is superior to anything else, especially in fevers which cause disturbance of the stomach and bowels. Beef tea, which is commonly used, is often irritating; but milk is soothing, cooling, and at the same time nourishing. A patient who can take milk has a greater chance of recovery. With some persons it does not agree, either in sickness or health. Mixing ^ to ^ its quantity of lime water with it will help it with some. Soda water and milk, or seltzer water and milk, agree with some. Boiled milk is more digestible with some, especially hot boiled milk. Only in rare cases should the cream be removed. The slightest souring is sufiicient to make milk disagree with a patient. In the early stages of convalescence, hot milk, given often in small quantities, with a little toasted bread, or thin gruel added, is often excellent. In chronic disorders of the stomach and bowels a milk diet is most val- uable. It allows the stomach to have almost absolute rest, which is often all that is required. As it is already prepared for absorption into the system it, in fact, requires no digestion. When milk is con- stipating, a little salt sprinkled in each glassful will obviate the difii- culty. When it has an opposite effect, a few drops of brandy in each tumbler of milk will prevent purgation. If diluted with | lime water INVALID COOKERY 577 it will rarely cause biliousness or indigestion. The idea that milk should not be eaten with pickles is a mistake, as it is curdled by the gastric juice as soon as swallowed, but it is better to be sipped in small quantities than taken in large amounts at one time if acids accompany it. Cream can often be taken freely when nothing else will remain on the stomach. It should always be fresh, and may be diluted with water or given pure. In many chronic diseases it is irreplaceable by any other article whatever. With many people it is easier of diges- tion than milk, and it seldom disagrees. Buttermilk is often very useful. It is almost always allowable in sickness, especially in fevers with gastric symtoms. Whey is often found useful when every preparation of fresh milk disagrees. It is not very nourishing, but is digestible, and is a refreshing drink in inflammatory disorders. It is rich in organic salts. The fats for the system are best obtained by using cream, or butter which is next best, rather, than fatty meats. Do not have the butter made into a sauce, nor melted and soaked into food. When exposed to heat (as for buttered toast) it is very likely to disagree with dys- peptics and other invalids. All decomposing fats, as a rule, disagree with the stomach. The value of cod liver oil in many diseases con- sists in the fact that it is the most easily digested of fats, not even excepting cream. Eggs are nutritious and easily digested when raw or lightly cook- ed; they are more digestible if beaten to a froth. Do not submit them to a high temperature in cooking, for, as we explain elsewhere, that will make them tough and indigestible. The white is least likely to disagree with a bilious patient. Use only fresh eggs for invalids. Eggs boiled 20 minutes are more digestible than when boiled 10; boiled 10 minutes, they become tough and horny, but become mealy and dry when cooked 20 minutes, and crumble up readily so that they are easily acted on by the gastric juices. Eggs in the tough and horny state are insoluble, and pieces often stay in the digestive tract till they decompose, when they emit ammonia and sulphuretted hydrogen which are injurious to the system. Beef Tea is not a nourishing food, although it used to be so con- sidered, and it is now known to have more value as a stimulant than as food, properly speaking, and yet many persons place their main reliance on it, and think the more a "patient swallows the sooner he will recover. It should be combined with other foods, or given alter- nately when possible, and when containing farinaceous foods it is 37 578 INVALID COOKERY useful. If well made, it is a pleasant and refreshing beverage. A healthy man would starve on beef tea alone, and so would an invalid. Broth made from chicken is more nutritious than that made from either beef or mutton, and the sick often find it very useful. The meat extracts, (Liebig's and others) are made by boiling lean meat in water, and then taking' out the insoluble parts and evaporating it down. As some of the most nutritious parts of the meat are insol- uble in water the extracts contain comparatively little nourishment. Their principal value is as stimulants, and they often improve the appetite so that more nutritious foods are craved and digested. Other food, therefore, should be given with them. A German took 2 dogs and gave one meat extract and the other water, and nothing else. The one given the extract lost flesh faster and died before the one having only water. Jelly, Gelatine and Isinglass have excited much discussion. Alone they are of little value, and it is a mistake to place much reliance on them for nourishment. (See our remarks on this subject under the head of " Gelatine Preparations.") Toast is valuable for invalids because by toasting part of the starch is turned into dextrin, which is easily digested. Cut the bread thin, hold it a little ways from the fire to dry, then hold it closer till it browns. Serve it dry, or buttered lightly, or with hot water or milk poured on it. Flour, Rice, Barley and Oats are preferable to arrowroot, sago, tapi- oca, etc., for nourishment, if suitably prepared. Browned flour we mention elsewhere. Rice is valuable for invalids, as it taxes the digestive powers very little. It can be roasted like coffee; then cook it in the usual way, and serve it with cream. Barley for invalids should be thoroughly cooked. Use oatmeal cautiously until the digestive powers become strong. Cornmeal because of its fat is val- ilable. for thin, chilly invalids, but cook it thoroughly. Macaroni is nutritious and easily digested. Fine Flour Bread is indigestible because it does not readily sepa- rate into particles in the stomach, so as to be readily attacked by the digestive fluids. A little fine Indian meal added to fine flour bread will obviate this difiiculty and cause it to separate quickly. Corn- meal is also loosening in its effects upon the digestive organs, there- fore in a relaxed condition of the bowels cornmeal should be avoided. Maltine, taken with flne flour bread or biscuit, will assist digestion. Thorough mastication must be insisted on, for that is the first pro- cess of the thorough digestion of all starch foods in which fine flour is used. INVALID COOKEBT 579 Tea, Coffee and Cocoa — Tea is often misused for invalids, A little tea or coifee restores them quite as much as a great deal. As a rule, do not give either after five o'clock in the afternoon. Sleeplessness in the early night is generally from excitement, and is increased by tea or coffee; in the early morning it comes from exhaustion, and is relieved by tea. In general, the dry and coated tongue prefers tea to coffee. Coffee is a better restorative than tea. Cocoa is often recommended bkanoh of ohoco- instead of tea or coffee, but it has a very different lat^ tkee. effect. It is a food rather than a beverage, owing to its fatty charac- ter, and for invalids it has no restorative or stimulating effect, and its fat is often oppressive to a weak stomach. Vegetables. — If an invalid is allowed to eat vegetables, be careful to choose only such as are yoang and tender, perfectly fresh, and suflBciently cooked; never send them up half done. All of the cabbage tribe are unsuitable, as they are likely to produce flatulence, and all the pulses are difficult of digestion, A mealy old potato is more digestible than a new one. The best way to use it is to boil, remove the inside, mash thoroughly, and use a little salt and cream to season it. The juice of fruits can be used early in convalescence for preparing drinks for an invalid, but do not use the pulp. When fruits can be used again a baked apple can first be safely eaten. Tlie appetite may be unimpaired or even greatly increased in many chronic diseases, like dyspepsia, etc., and in these cases there will be danger of yielding to the claims of appetite and overstepping the bounds of prudence, so that an undue amount or an unsuitable food may be eaten, for which reason it is of great importance for such persons to pay attention to some suitable rules for the diet. People who are subject to gout and biliousness should remember that "bile poison" and "gout poison" are of albumenoid descent, and that they follow a diet too rich in albumenoids like the avenging fates. The system requires for the growth and repair of its tissues a certain amount of albumenoids, but when an excess is eaten the sur- plus is imperfectly oxydized and the blood becomes laden with waste, and the result is biliousness or gout. People with a tendency to these diseases should eat very sparingly of albumenoid foods like meat, eggs, beans, cheese, etc. People with a tendency to consumption should eat nutritious and eas- ily digested foods, and plenty of fats in their most easily digested 580 INVALID COOKERY form, such as cream, good butter, oil and salads, oatmeal, cornmeal, etc., rather than in the indigestible form they assume when mixed with starch. Diet. — Every year diet plays a lar'ger part in the skilled treatment of disease; it is harmless where drugs are dangerous, and it can often cure where drugs are useless or worse. There are many diseases where the only hope of cure or alleviation lies in rigid abstinence from certain kinds of food, and in many common ailments some slight change in diet is by far the best remedy. A deficiency of oil or fat in the diet develops scrofulous diseases, and yet we often hear, when fat meats, cream, butter, etc., are suggested for scrofulous children "O, that will feed the disease," when that is likely to be the one thing that would most assist a cure. Fat is heat giving, and is naturally craved by most delicate children. The fol- lowing is about the proportion of fat in the different grains : Rice 1 ; Rye 1.75; Wheat 2.10; Oats 3.30; Indian Corn 5 (the amount of oil varies in different varieties of corn, the northern yellow containing much more than the southern white). Oatmeal porridge and milk have, with intelligent people, long been regarded as the best food for the nursery. It owes its chief value for that purpose to its large amount of fat, but with many children it does not agree, and corn- meal porridge possessing so much fat can often be used in its place to advantage. Thoroughly cook it always, as it is only indigestible when improperly prepared. The dietary for children from 2^ to 7 years of age, which has been settled by long experiment in various children's hospitals is as follows: At least 12 ounces of bread daily; 1 oz. butter; ^ pint of milk; 2 oz. meat; 6 oz. vegetables; 6 oz. gruel or porridge. Rapidly growing children require an abundance of meat (or albumenoids) to build up the rapidly growing system. Lime — In parts of the country where lime does not exist in the soil, so that the water is deficient in lime, use ^ pint of lime water with the mixing for bread every time bread is made. In this way children will get the lime which is necessary for the proper solidi- fying of the bones, and the preservation of the teeth. We explain elsewhere how to make lime water. When a patient suffers from sickness and nausea every food should be given iced, or as cold as possible, and in the smallest quantities, and it will be a good plan to slip a little piece of ice into the patient's mouth immediately after giving the food. Ice for the sickroom can be nicely kept through the night by ty- ing a piece of strainer cloth over a large pitcher, with a piece of twine around it, leaving a sag in the center on which may be placed INVALID COOKERY 581 1 or 2 pounds of ice — enough to serve the invalid through the night. Fold up the corners of the cloth over the ice, and cover it again with a square of canton flannel, folded 4 double. When a bit of ice is needed have at hand a large darning needle and thimble; press stead- ily on a corner of the ice with the needle, and flake ofp pieces as needed. The water in the bottom of the pitcher can be poured through the strainer without disturbing the ice which is covered with the corners of the strainer. Fat may be removed from beef tea or broth by letting it get cold, when it can all be taken off; or, if in haste, by drawing a piece of blotting paper edgeways over the surface, and it will take up the fatty particles. In some cases a little fat will be beneficial; in others it is better to remove it all. MILK SOUP — Use 1 quart of new milk, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 saltspoon of powdered cinnamon, 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar; scald all together for an hour in a pitcher set m a kettle of water; then add the well=beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Good for delicate persons and children. MUTTON BROTH — Boil slowly about 2 lbs. of lean mutton for 2 hours; skim it carefully; do not put in too much salt — more can be added if needed; a little barley or rice may be added; strain, and take off all fat with blotting paper drawn across it. CHICKEN BROTH — Put half the chicken into a small stew=pan with a teaspoon of rice, a little pepper and salt. Cover with cold water and boil slowly until the meat falls from the bones; then take out the chicken, leave the rice in, a,nd serve. Very nutritious. ESSENCE OF MEAT— Take 1 pound of good lean beef (have it free from fat and skin), chop it into small pieces, and put it into a glass fruit jar adding 1 tablespoon of water, and screw on the cover; set it in cold water, heat gradually to 150° to 160° (don't let it boil), and keep it there 2 hours; the water in the outside kettle must not get into the fruit jar- remove all fat with a piece of clean blotting pa- per, and add salt and pepper to taste. Chicken or any other meat can be treated the same way. The pure essence of meat, thus ex- tracted, will be received by the most delicate stomach, and is also valuable where considerable nutriment is required in a concentrated form. A single tablespoon can be taken by an invalid, and would afford as much sustenance as ^ pint of broth. It becomes a jelly when cold, and may in this way be eaten with chicken or game. 582 INVALID COOKERY STEWED BEEF ESSENCE — Cut | lb. of beef into bits, salt it, and in a few minutes, squeeze it, let it stand ^ hour, heat hot, but do not boil it, and serve at once. BROILED BEEF JUICE.— Broil | lb. of round steak 1 or 2 min- utes on each side, cut in bits, squeeze out the juice, salt and serve. BROILED STEAK. — Wipe the steak with a clean, wet cloth, take a piece of the fat to grease the gridiron, broil over a bright fire 4 or 5 minutes, turn often, put on a hot plate, season with salt, pep- per and a little butter. TOASTED MUTTON — Cut very thin slices from loin of mutton, with a sharp knife. Lay each slice on a toasting fork, and toast over a clear hot fire. Sprinkle with a little pepper and salt. It may be eaten with a thin piece of toast. MEAT PATTY — Scrape a piece of lean beef^steak with a very dull knife, holding it with the left hand, and scraping from you with the right. This removes the tender meat fiber and leaves the tough connective tissue. Press the former into a thin cake or patty, and broil on a toasting fork over a very hot fire. When done, season to taste. Eaten with toast or thin cut bread and butter it makes a very delicate dish. The cake or patty, prepared as above, may also be fried in a little butter, and will be found very nutritious, and a weak stomach will retain it. RAW BEEF SANDWICHES.— Scrape fine 2 or 3 tablespoons of raw, juicy, tender beef, season slightly with salt and pepper, spread on thin slices of bread, and put it in a toaster and toast slightly. COOKING EGGS FOR INVALIDS.— Put 3 cups of boiling water into a skillet and add a cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Have it boiling hot, then break the eggs in, and cover and set back where they will not boil. Let the eggs remain in until they cook white on top, but not hard. STEAMED EGGS — Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of new milk in plain patty tins, and break fresh eggs into them ; add a little salt and put into the steamer and steam until white, over the yolks, but not long enough to harden them. Eggs thus prepared are very nice and look very inviting. BEEF TEA — Mince a pound of tender beef, free from fat, and put it into a covered crockery jar; pour on barely enough cold water to cover the meat, and allow it to soak 2 or 3 hours; then place it on the stove or in a moderate oven, and let it simmer {donH let it INVALID COOKERY 583 boil — it should not go above 160°) for 2 or 3 hours longer, adding a little water from time to time as it evaporates; strain and season to taste. To make it more nourishing a little arrowroot, rice or barley may be added. Mutton or Veal may be treated the same way. If beef tea must be had quickly broil a thick piece of steak, turning it often, to keep in the juices, as explained elsewhere for broiling; then cut it into small pieces, and press it in a lemon squeezer. Prof. Liebig's Beef Tea. — A saltspoon of the extract (Liebig's) is stirred in a cup of boiling water. Add salt and pepper as desired. If too much of the extract is used, which is a common mistake, the drink has a bitter taste. Dry toast eaten with it makes a palatable dish. BROILED BEEF TEA.— Broil ^ lb. of lean, juicy beef 1 minute on each side, cut in small pieces, pour over it ^ cup of boiling water, squeeze it, salt the juide and serve instantly. Do not heat it again. STEWED BEEF TEA. — Use | lb. of round steak, cut fine, soak it in 1 cup of water ^ hour, let it heat (not boil), strain, salt and serve. (In making beef tea it is well to know that 1 lb. of the round will yield 4 oz. of beef extract, and contains more nutriment and is much cheaper than extract bought ready prepared.) APPLE WATER. — Cut 3 or 4 apples in slices, pour boiling water over, allow to stand 2 or 3 hours, strain, and sweeten slightly. This is a very refreshing drin BARLEY WATER — To 1 cup of barley (first washed) add 1 quart of water. Allow to simmer until ^ has boiled away. Strain, and to this add a tablespoon of sugar dissolved in 1 cup of hot water- This is an excellent drink in febrile affections; also it is very refresh- ing and somewhat nourishing. To make a mild laxative drink, for children, add to the barley 8 or 10 figs cut in pieces. It is a delight- ful drink, and quite laxative. RICE WATER. — Wash 2 oz. of rice; boil 1 hour in 2 quarts of water; strain, and sweeten; flavor with nutmeg. It is a very pleasant drink and efficacious in the bowel troubles of children. TOAST WATER.^Cut 4 slices of bread thin; toast to near burning. Pour over them 1 quart of boiling water and allow to cool^ and strain.. It may be flavored with a little lemon juice. This is a most wholesome and refreshing drink. HOT LEMONADE. — Peel the yellow rind off 1 lemon, squeeze, and add a glass of boiling water; sweeten with crushed sugar. This 584 INVALID OOOKEKY is an excellent drink in the feverish condition of colds. It will quickly induce perspiration. EGG AND LEMON JUICE.— Dissolve 1 oz. sugar in 1 pint of water, and stir in the juice of 1 lemon; add the white of 1 egg and froth up. Ice it if desired. EGG DRINK — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teacup milk. Beat the egg well in a cup with the sugar, put the milk on to boil, and when it boils pour it over the egg, beating with a fork all the time. It is refreshing and invigorating. EGG AND LIME WATER — To a wine glass of lime water add the white of 1 egg beaten so it will not string. Give it in small quantity and often. It is excellent in obstinate vomiting and irrita- tion of the stomach. LIME WATER — Put 2 teaspoons of lime water in ^ tumbler of milk; add a little sugar to taste. This will often be retained when the stomach rejects all other kinds of food. The same may be said of inilk and soda water in equal proportions. We explain elsewhere how to make lime water. FLAXSEED TEA. — To 1 cup water allow 1 tablespoon flaxseed; pour on the water boiling hot, boil 5 minutes and strain. Sweeten with sugar, and for flavor add a little lemon or orange juice. LINSEED TEA. — Boil 2 tablespoons of the unground linseed in 3 pints of water until reduced to a quart; strain, and add lemon juice to relieve the flat taste. A very useful drink in colds and coughs. It is also good in affections of the urinary organs. LICORICE TEA. — Take 2 oz. each of licorice and marshmallow root; boil m 3 pints of water down to a quart. Allow it to stand to settle; then strain through muslin. It is a very desirable drink in colds, etc. SLIPPERY ELM TEA — Boil 1 oz. in a quart of water until I boiled away. Pour off, and flavor with lemon juice if desired. Useful in the same cases as the former. RENNET WHEY — Infuse a piece of the rennet in a little boil- ing water, as for making cheese; let it remain 1 or 2 hours; put a tablespoon of this fluid into 3 pints of new milk, just warmed (not hot). Cover it with a cloth and let stand still until the curd is form- ed thick on the top; press out, and use the whey. WINE WHEY — Add to a pint of milk, brought to the boiling point, sufficient madeira or sherry wine to coagulate it. Strain, sweeten or flavor to the taste. INVALID COOKERY 585 RICE AND MILK. — Wash 3 tablespoons of rice; put in a sauce= j)an with a pint of milk; allow to simmer until rice is soft, stirring from time to time to prevent burning; sweeten and flavor to taste. This is a nice dish for children, especially when troubled with sum- mer complaint. Tapioca, Macaroni, Vermicelli etc., may be treated in the same way. They make very palatable dishes. SWISS CREAM. — Boil a pint of cream or milk with a little cin- namon or lemon peel; rub a teaspoon of flour in a small quantity of milk, and add it to the rest, stirring it on the fire. ASSES' MILK — This is much like human milk in consistency, but contains a little less cream and more soft caseous matter. It is often used by persons afflicted with lung affections, and is consider- ed very strengthening. Artificial asses' milk may be made by dissolving 2 oz. of sugar of milk in 1 pint of warm, skimmed, cow's milk. Another recipe for artificial asses' milk is ^ oz. of gelatine dissolved in a quart of hot barley water, then add 1 oz. of refined sugar, and then 1 pint of new cow's milk and beat all together. ARROWROOT. — Mix 2 teaspoons of arrowroot with 1 tablespoon of cold water, then add "I pint of boiling milk and l)oil 10 minutes. Sweeten to taste and add nutmeg or pow- dered cinnamon. It is light and agreeable for a delicate stomach. Akboweoot. — This is a species of starch obtained from the roots of a variety of plants cultivated chiefly in the West Indies. The origin of the name is said to be the use by the Indians of the fresh roots to cure the aebowboot. wounds caused by poisoned arrows. Any kind of starch to be digestible should boil 10 to 20 minutes. It is not enough to cook it until it swells, but it must be cooked until the starch granules burst their sheaths. Starch preparations are often cooked too little. GOAT'S MILK — This is considered very good for invalids in some conditions. It resembles cow's milk, but the butter contained in it is harder than that of the cow. Artificial goat's milk is made by taking a piece of fresh calf's suet the size of an egg, tying it in a cloth, scalding it in a quart of 586 INVALID COOKERY new milk, and adding a level tablespoon of granulated sugar. The suet must be cut finely, or chopped, and tied loosely in a thin piece of muslin or lace. This is excellent for scrofulous children, land any person suffering from affections of the lungs. FRANQIPANE — This is a preparation for invalids made by evaporating to a thick consistency (in a double boiler) milk mixed with blanched and pounded sweet almonds, and a little sugar. SUET AND MILK — To 1 pint of new milk add 1 cup of scraped veal suet and a teaspoon of sugar. . Scald together for an hour, then strain, and add a little flavoring if liked. This is a nourishing drink for an invalid or delicate child. MILK OR CREAM TOAST.— Toast a slice of bread uniformly brown. Break the crust by rolling, and add sufficient hot milk or cream to thoroughly soak it. Sweeten with powdered sugar. SIPPETS — When the stomach cannot bear meat, toast some slices of bread, lay them on a hot plate, and pour hot meat gravy over them; add salt to taste. BOILED OR BAKED FLOUR.— Tie some flour in a cloth as if it were a pudding, put it in boiling water and boil for 3 hours; then scrape down the inner part of the ball, and use a tablespoon in a pint of milk to make a gruel. Or put the flour on a tin in the oven and bake it till it is a light brown; then use as before. Both these prep- arations are more digestible than uncooked flour. QRUELS — Corn=starch, Rice, Wheat Flour or Arrowroot Wet 2 teaspoons of the flour in cold water or milk, stir it into 1 cup of boiling water, add 1 saltspoon of salt, boil 10 to 15 minutes; thin it with ^ cup of milk. Barley Gruel. — Wash |- cup of pearl barley and boil it in 1 pint of water for 20 minutes; pour off this water and add 1 quart of fresh boiling water; let it boil until reduced ^; strain, and add the rind of a lemon and sweeten to taste. Codfish Gruel — Freshen a tablespoon of shredded codfish to taste; add to it 1 teaspoon sifted flour, and 1 cup of boiling water — allow- ing it to simmer long enough to thoroughly cook the flour; add a very little butter, and eat with toasted cracker. Cornmeal or Oatmeal Gruel.— Mix | cup of the meal with a little cold water; then add a pint of boiling water, a teaspoon of salt, and boil 25 or 30 minutes. Sweeten to taste, and add a little nutmeg. This makes a nice light nourishment for the sick or convalescent. Cracker Gruel.— To 4 tablespoons of powdered cracker, wet with boiling water, add 2 cups of hot milk. INVALID COOKERY 587 Egg Gruel. — Beat well 1 egg, white and yolk separately; pour 1 cup of boiling water or milk to the yolk, add 1 teaspoon of sugar; mix well, and stir in the white. Onion Gruel.— Slice and cut finely 2 or 3 small onions; stew them in a quart of water until they are soft; then add a teaspoon of good extract of beef. This is excellent for a cold. Or the onions may be stewed in milk instead of water, and a sprinkle of oatmeal and a pinch of pepper stirred in, instead of the meat extract if preferred. Take it just before scettins: into bed. MILK PORRIDGE — Boil 24 raisins cut in quarters, in water enough to cover them, 20 minutes; when plump, and the water has evaporated, add 2 cups of milk, and when boiling add 1 teaspoon of flour rubbed to a paste; let it boil up, then with a little cold milk add the white of an onion. egg well beaten. OATMEAL JELLY OR STIFF PORRIDGE — Boil a pint of water, and while it is still on the fire, stir in small quantities of oat- meal very fast, sprinkling it in, until it is rather thick; then boil it slowly ^ hour. Turn it out into a soup plate, and eat it with milk, or syrup, or butter and salt. ELM JELLY — To 1 quart of water add 4 tablespoons chipped slippery elm, and let it stand over night. In the morning strain off the water, add 1 or 2 slices of lemon (without seeds), sweeten, and let it boil for 10 minutes. Remove the lemon, and pour it into a mold to cool and harden. RICE JELLY. — Make a thin paste of 2 oz. of rice flour and 3 oz. of loaf sugar; boil them in a quart of water till transparent. Flavor with rose, orange, or cinnamon water. It can be made also by boil- ing whole rice long and slowly. A pinch of salt improves it. TAPIOCA JELLY. — Choose the largest sort, pour on cold water to wash it 2 or 8 times, then soak it in fresh water 5 or 6 hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes clear, adding the peel of 1 lemon; then add sugar, and lemon juice. It thickens very much. Wine is also sometimes added for invalids. RESTORATIVE JELLY.— Use 1 box of gelatine, 1 tablespoon of powdered gum arable, ^ pint of port Mane, juice of ^ a lemon, 8 tablespoons of sugar, and 8 whole cloves; put all in a covered glass jar, set it on a plate in a kettle of cold water, let it soak f hour, put it on the fire, and heat slowly; when all is dissolved, stir well, and strain into a shallow dish, and cut in squares. 688 INVALID COOKEKY WINE JELLY. — Use | cup of gelatine; soak soft in ^ cup of cold water; then pour in 1 pint of boiling water, juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup of sugar, 1 cup of sherry wine; stir and strain through a cloth into a mold. • CRACKER PANADA. — Pour over 3 or 4 crackers, in a sauce-pan enough water to barely cover them. Boil 2 or 3 minutes. Pour oflp the surplus water, and add enough hot milk or cream to soak them. Sweeten with powdered sugar. ICELAND MOSS — Wash 1 oz. in boiling water; then boil slowly in a pint of water until quite soft. Strain through cloth, and sweeten. When done it will make a very palatable dish. Iceland Moss. — This is really a lichen, not a moss. It grows in northern latitudes. Its bitter taste is due to an acid it contains, but by soaking it in a weak solution of carbonate of soda that can be removed. It contains about 10 per cent, of water, 9 of albumenoids, 70 of lichen starch, 6 of lichen acids, 33^ of cellulose, and 1^^ of mineral matter. Ikish Moss is a seaweed, collected mostly on the coasts of Ireland. Its chief constituent is a kind of mucilage which dis- solves to a stifif paste in boiling water; it also contains a little iodine and much sulphur. Its constituents are, water 19^, albu- menoids 9, mucilage, etc. 56, mineral matter 14. It should be Iceland moss. soaked in cold water for an hour or so before being boiled in water or milk. It will often relieve a severe cough, and is fre- quently given in cases of rheumatism and gout. ARROWROOT BLANC MANGE.— Mix arrowroot in the usual way, but use 3 times more than you would for gruel; add milk and flavoring; sweeten to taste and simmer till thick enough for a mold. RICE BLANC MANGE. — Boil as much ground rice in a pint of milk as will make it thick enough to turn out of a mold, sweetening and flavoring to taste. A sauce can be added of milk, cream, or any invalid custard. Sago Blanc Mange is made the same way, first washing the sago in several waters. Tapioca Blanc Mange is made the same way, washing the tapioca, and using less of it. TAGANROK BLANC MANGE — Put 2 cups milk in a double boiler, bring it to a boil, and sprinkle in 2 tablespoons taganrok farina, stirring all the time; add ^ teaspoon salt, and cook 30 min- utes, stirring often; then turn into a mold which has been wet with cold water; let cool, and serve ice cold with cream and sugar. (Taganrok is Russian wheat farina. It can be bought in small packages at the stores.) FOREIGN COOKERY. BRIEF glance at the cookery of other nations may be of inter- est to our readers. Those who are fond of trying experiments may be glad to try some of the foreign dishes. Owing to our limited space we can give only a few recipes — not as many as we are tempted to do, but a good many foreign recipes of various kinds will be found scattered through our pages, in addition to those which we give here. ENGLISH COOKERY. — English cookery resembles the Ameri- can more than any other nation. The cooking of meat is much the same in the two countries, but in America meat is so plentiful that much more is wasted, in fact, probably no other nation wastes as much food of any kind as the American. It is a national charac- teristic which often impresses foreigners. The varieties of fish, fruit and vegetables eaten in the two countries vary slightly, although in the main they are similar, and so is the method of cooking them. It is unnecessary to give recipes here, as so many English recipes are given in the body of our work, and the cookery of the two countries is so similar that they would present little novelty or contrast to our readers. It will be better to devote our limited space to other countries. FRENCH COOKERY. The French are justly proud of their cookery which ranks very high, perhaps higher than that of any other nation. Garlic is very generally used in flavoring French dishes, so much being often used as to render them quite unpalatable to the unaccustomed taste, but in delicate cooking its presence is hardly noticed. Much impor- tance is attached to a good dish of fish. In a countxy like France where the church prescribes as a panacea, a maigre fare twice a week (though it is generally observed only on Fridays) this attention to the preparation of fish is quite natural. In cooking meats the French disguise or cover the taste in vari- ous ways, while the English and American system retains the origi- nal flavor more generally. The French say that their Anglican cousins eat their meat raw, while, on the other hand, we think they lose much of the rich flavor of the meat by so uniformly disguising it. 589 590 FEENOH COOKERY Possibly, however, the conditions of the different countries regulate these matters largely, for while with the best meat much is gained by retaining its flavor, with inferior qualities more is gained by masking it, and probably the quality of the meat is generally better in Eng- land and America than in France. The very general custom of mak- ing soups and stews, draws out of the meat its salts and extractives, and leaves the fibrin and other ingredients insipid and unpalatable. These remnants of meat, however, contain elements of food essential to the system, and by the use of sauces and flavorings they are made very palatable and attractive by the French. Much bread is baked in country houses, and large, flat, plain cakes, called gaieties, composed principally of flour and water, (the butter being conspicuous by its absence) are universal. The smaller cakes are delightful. Vanilla is the most popular flavoring. Deli- cate little puffs made in soft, flaky rolls, are filled with preserves of various kinds, but the vanilla flavor is traceable in most of them. There is a sort of national jam, called rciisinet. It is very common with the middle classes, and is used for cakes, and for eating with bread and butter. Its foundation is the new wine as it comes from the press, and into this are thrown turnips, carrots, plums, apples, pears or any other fruit that may be in season, and it is kept stirring for 24 hours. No sugar is added, but the process of long boiling is sufficient to make it keep for a whole year. Fruit syrups are a great feature in France. Raspberries, strawberries, currants, apples, apri- cots and every sort of fruit is utilized. These syrups are used for sauces, as well as mixed with water for drinks, and grateful indeed are these cooling beverages in the sultry days of a French summer. But the French especially excel in their entries or made dishes, and there is something both artistic and scientific in the refinement of taste which they display in their various combinations of mush- rooms, trufiles, and other garnitures and seasonings.. A great delicacy made by these people is the airy vol-au'vent. Everything is con- verted into a vohaU'Vent. Meat of all descriptions cut up small in a delicate sauce; in like manner fricasseed fowl, fish stewed in wine, and game dressed in savory. fashion find a place in this flaky recep- tacle, As a sweet, also, it is much favored, fruit and preserves often making their appearance when the top is removed. The pates of France may be regarded as the equivalent of the German ivurst, and there is a great variety in their seasoning and in the different kinds of meat employed in their fabrication. In bon-bons, however, no people can equal the French in the variety and excellence of their production, and probably no other people are so fond of sweetmeats. FRENCH COOKERY 691 Children, especially, are surfeited with them, so that it is probably detrimental to their health. Other nations do well not to imitate them in this regard. The economy of French cooks is very noticeable. Everything in the way of food is utilized. Among the poorer French people, no matter to what class they belong, there is far less meat consumed than among the same classes here, yet the fare is more dainty, appetizing and varied than ours. In their hands vegetables are not merely acces- sories, but are made the most attractive of foods. The very poor, how- ever, live on the simplest fare. It is no uncommon thing to see a laboring man or woman, (for women also labor in the fields) making his or her meal on a piece of dry bread and garlic. We have space to give but few French dishes in this place, but very many most desirable French recipes are given in the body of our work. Their bouillon, bouillabaise, julienne and other soups; their bechamel, matelote, maitre d' hotel and other sauces; their beef a la mode and various other dishes will be found in their appropiate places in our work. Every year sees a more general use of good French recipes by our own people. COURT BOUILLON TO BOIL FISH IN Take 1^ quarts of water and put into it 3 tablespoons of salt and 1 of pepper seeds, ^ pint of cider vinegar, 2 cloves, 2 onions, 2 bay leaves, 1 carrot. Let it come to a boil and then x^ut in the fish. MACEDOIN OF VEGETABLES — In the spring select good fresh vegetables which match well, like asparagus, turnips, carrots, string beans, etc. Cut the asparagus into 1-| inch pieces, the beans into lozenges, and the others into fancy shapes, and cook each kind sepa- rately in salted water till tender; then drain them. Put butter into a stewing=pan, and as soon as it melts put in the vegetables and stir them a little over a moderate fire. Use just butter enough to envel- ope the vegetables, but no more. When well warmed, add enough bechamel sauce to moisten them. Then arrange them o.n a hot dish in the form of a pyramid and serve. FILLETS DE VENT — Take the white of 1 egg and 6 oz. of white sugar; flavor with vanilla and stir together till about as thick as icing. Put little bunches on paper and bake in a slow oven. MIROTIN OF VEAL — Take remnants of veal and chop fine, adding some fat bacon if you have it. Take ^ as much bread crumbs as meat, and put it in milk; when well soaked, take out, squeeze dry in a clean cloth, and add it to the meat. Add also 1 egg beaten 592 GERMAN COOKERY light, salt, pepper and a slice of onion and a little parsley minced together. Put all together in a sauce=pan, mix thoroughly, and merely warm without cooking. ''^^"'^^^^^ Now take a deep dish, butter it well, put in the /Jl^^\^^^^^^ mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn it |il^^^% %^l^ out whole, and serve with caper sauce. Ivj^^saii^^^^^^ Peppeb. — Of this aromatic berry or fruit there are ^©^NL/Sw ^^^ several kinds. The black is derived from berries growing QP/J^iS™ ^ on vines something like grapes. It grows in Malabar W^%S^ ^L and other places. Each berry contains a seed of a brown- t^ vl--|S» ^ ish color, which is black when dried, and is the pepper of ^^^ commerce. White pepper is made from black by steep- ing the seeds in lime water and then rubbing off the coats, and is therefore less pungent than the black. Black pepper contains a concrete acrid oil, a volatile oil, starch, malic and uric acids and lignine. Small quantities are stimulant, but large quantities are irrita- ting. Even small quantities produce detrimental effects on inflammatory consti tutions. RAMEQUINS. — In a gratin dish, put 1 tablespoon of melted butter; now put in a layer of thin slices of bread, and cover ic with cheese in thin slices. Next take 1 cup milk, stir in 3 eggs, and pour over all. Put in the oven and bake till the top is light brown, which should be in 15 minutes. Delicious. GERMAN COOKERY. The Germans possess good appetites and are highly critical in the matter of cooking. Perhaps the greatest difference between the Ger- man cooking and our own consists in their greater use of seasoning, principally fresh and dried herbs of all kinds. Many dishes which we look upon as ready for the table they would regard as only half prepared. Certainly the Germans take a great deal of pains in the preparation of all kinds of meat. Joints to be roasted, after having been wiped and deprived of all superfluous fat, gristle, or any un- sightly scraps, are thoroughly rubbed with a mixture of herbs, selected according to the different nature of the meat to be dressed. Then onion, allspice, pepper and salt, and occasionally cloves, are placed in the pan and the joint is basted frequently with the gravy thus flavored, all of which adds a refined and delicate flavor to its taste. Their manner of cooking vegetables is more artistic than our own. A delicate savoy cabbage with which we would be satisfied when thoroughly boiled in salt and water, would not seem so perfect were we to taste a similar cabbage after a German handling, with the GERMAN COOKERY 598 addition of shallot delicately fried in clarified butter, pepper, parsley, and just a touch of flour. German cooks are scrupulously attentive to washing their vegetables, and consume large quantities of water in the process. The excellence of German bakers is well known, for they are to be found scattered all over our own country, and most of us are familiar with the varieties of brown and white bread which they make, as well as rolls of every description. The German families buy their bread very largely at the baker's instead of making it at home. The cakes, however, every family makes, or can make them- selves; plain or rich cakes, bread tarts, and foam tarts (the foam 'being a combination of eggs and sifted sugar) as well as open tarts, not made with preserves as ours are, but of the lightest dough rolled out and cut into long or round shapes and thickly overlaid with fresh fruit, sprinkled with sugar and currants, the juice permeating the crust and none of it being lost, thus giving a rich , flavor to the tart. Stewed fruit is frequently used at German tables as a substitute for a second vegetable. With roast pork, for example, a large basin of stewed plums generally makes its appearance, instead of the side=dish of apple sauce to which we treat it. Apple compote is served in the same way with roast veal or fowl. Ducks, geese and turkeys are usually stuffed with chestnuts and spices. The knowledge of cookery runs through all classes, and is an essential part of a girl's education. The great majority of families belonging to the middle classes in Germany live in flats, even those who may be termed wealthy. The daughters, even in the highest class, take their turn, week about, in superintending ihe management of the house, thus learning housekeeping and cooking from earliest youth. • BRETZELN — Mix 1 large tablespoon yeast into | pint warm milk; stir it into 1^ lbs. of flour, and beat it well. In another pan beat ^ lb. butter to cream; add to this 2 oz. sifted sugar, 3 eggs, another tablespoon of yeast, and a little salt. Put the dough into this, and beat all together thoroughly till quite smooth ; cut off pieces the size of an egg, roll them into round bars 6 to 8 inches long, and tapering off at the ends. Lay them on buttered tins, curving them in half circles or new moon shapes, leaving space between each. Put them by gentle warmth to rise; when light, brush them over with egg, dust sugar over, and bake them a pale brown. CHICKENS {Ordinary German Way). — Stuff 2 chickens with a stuffing made of French rolls, a little butter, 1 egg, 1 onion finely 38 594 GEEMAN COOKERY shredded, parsley, thyme and grated lemon peel. Next lard and bread=crumb them, placing a piece of fat over the breast that they may not become too brown. Place the chickens in a stew-pan with 1 oz. butter; leave uncovered for a short time, then cover and bake for 1| hours. Half an hour before serving add 1 small cup of cream, and baste thoroughly over a hotter fire. DICKE MILCH. — This is new milk put into a pie dish or other shallow vessel and allowed to stand 2 or 3 days, according to the weather, until it is sour and thick, but not quite so thick as blanc mange. Only experience can guide one as to the exact stage at which it is ready to use. If left too long a watery fluid rises to the top. It is eaten with bread crumbs and sugar. FROTHED MILK SOUP.— Pound 6 bitter almonds, and boil them in 2 quarts milk, or instead of the almonds use | a stick of va- nilla; add sugar to taste and a little salt. Beat separately 4 eggs; the whites must be beaten to a stiff froth, then mixed with the yolks. Let the milk just cease boiling, and whisk in the eggs till it froths well, but not over the fire or the eggs will curdle. Serve with small sponge biscuit. QRUTZE. — Boil 2 lbs. red currants and ^ lb. raspberries, in 1^ jDints water; when quite soft pass through a sieve. Make this juice boil, and add | lb. sago well soaked in water; let it boil ^ hour, stir- ring it all the time. Wet a mold with cold water, pour in, and when cold turn it out. To be eaten with milk, cream or custard. Any other fruit or preserve will do as well. QULASCH. — Cut a tender piece of steak into quite small pieces, lay them in a deep frying-pan, with a little bacon, some slices of on- ion, and a little pepper and salt; fry them in 'butter till the gravy looks brown; then add a little lemon juice and a small quantity of water. Cover the pan, and let the contents simmer till the meat is quite done. - KNODELN. — Mash 3 or 4 large potatoes smoothly with 1 large tablesppon of flour, and mix with 1 well^beaten egg; make into balls the size of a walnut, and boil. These are served with meat in the place of other vegetables. They can also be baked. KOCHE (Molds). — We have no suitable term for this sort of a dish in English. Sponge pudding is the nearest, but this does not do it justice; nor is custard right. We must therefore call it mold. Chocolate Mold. — Whip 2 oz. of butter with 2 oz. of sugar, the yolks of 3 eggs, and 3 oz. of grated chocolate; mix in the 3 whites whisked to a stiff snow; bake in a buttered mold. GERMAN COOKERY 595 Potato Mold — Whisk 3 eggs with 2 oz. of sugar and a little grated lemon peel; then stir in a pint of cream and enough grated cold pota- toes to form a very thick batter, which must be so stiff that it will not drop from the spoon. Bake in a welhbuttered mold. Egg Moid. — Use 4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of sugar, the yolks of 8 eggs, the grated peel and juice of |- lemon, and a tablespoon of flour; whip them to a foam; then stir in the whites of 4 eggs in a stiff snow. Bake it in a buttered mold or dish. NEUN=LOTH PUDDING — This favorite pudding is made as fol- lows: Stir ^ pint of milk into 4^ oz. fine flour and 4^ oz. powdered loaf sugar. Put 4| oz. butter and ^ pint of milk into a stew-pan, and when this is hot and the butter is melted, stir in the other milk and flour; keep the mixture stirred over the fire till it boils and thickens; then turn it out into a pan to cool. Stir in the yolks of 9 eggs and 4| oz. almonds blanched and pounded, and lastly the 9 egg whites, beaten to a stiff snow. Stir all briskly together, butter a mold or basin, fill it, and boil the pudding 1|^ hours. The water must not cease boiling. Serve with a good sauce. NUDELS. — Beat 2 eggs, work into them by degrees as much flour as they will take, and knead them into a smooth stiff paste. Cut into 4 or 6 parts, make into balls, and roll out as thin as paper, and spread it on a napkin in the sun or near the fire to dry; it dries quickly. Then cut into quarters, lay the pieces on top of each other, and cut into strips as narrow as twine. Dry them well and they will keep some time. They can be made white by using only the whites of the eggs and flour. Keep the board well floured while rolling them. They are used much like the Italian macaroni. A common way is to drop them into boiling water well salted; they will cook in about 5 minutes; pour browned butter on them when they are served, and add a little grated cheese if desired. SAURBRATEN. — This is one of the great national dishes. Lay a piece of beef in a deep dish and pour a cup of vinegar over it. Leave it in this 2 to 4 days, turning and basting it every day. To prepare for cooking wipe it dry; cut strips of fat bacon the size of a little finger; roll them in a mixed seasoning of salt, pepper and ground cloves. Make holes in the meat, and with a large skewer put in the pieces of bacon. Make butter hot in an iron pot or stew-pan, just large enough to hold it; put in the beef and set it over a brisk fire, letting the steam escape to hasten the browning; dredge it with flour, and turn it when one side is brown. When the meat is nicely colored add about 1 pint of water, 2 carrots quartered lengthwise, 1 596 ITALIAN COOKERY or 2 large onions sliced, 2 or 3 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon of whole pep- per, a blade of mace, ^ of a lemon peel, and a good sprinkling of salt. Cover closely, and let it steam 2 or 3 hours, adding a little water when necessary. At serving time take up the meat and keep it hot while you skim ofiP the fat and strain the gravy. The unbroken carrots may be laid around the meat. Add lemon juice or vinegar if the sauce requires more acid; thicken it with flour, give it a boil up, pour a little over the meat, and serve the rest in a sauceboat. STICKLERSPERSQROD.— For this simple and cheap dish, well flavored, ripe, red gooseberries are used. Take 4 lbs. gooseberries with ^ lb. raspberries, keep them stirred gently in a stew-pan over a clear fire till the fruit is quite soft, then mash and strain the juice through a cloth. Make this juice quite boil; then add ^ lb. sugar and 6 oz. corn flour or arrowroot; let it boil 10 minutes, stirring all the time. Wet a mold with cold water, pour it in, and when cold turn it out. The best proportion is 1 pint juice to ^ lb. corn flour. To be eaten in soup plates with sifted sugar and milk. Sauerkraut is given in our article on " Vegetables." ITALIAN COOKERY. Italian cooking has a general resemblance to the French. In fact there is more or less resemblance in the cooking of all the Latin races. Their soups are endless in variety, and are sometimes pre- pared with vegetables and sometimes without. A dish which may almost be called national, so general is its use, is the Minestrone, or large, thick soup. It consists of vegetables stewed together for many hours, thickened with rice and a strip of bacon added. Macaroni is absent, but Parmesan cheese is plentifully added. Joints of meat are cut smaller than with us, but they are quite commonly garnished with olives, and so are their ragouts and stews. The Italians have a most delicate way of preparing cutlets, and veal cutlets are in espe- cial favor. Sausage making is carried to a high degree of excellence, and there are some varieties (like the Bologna) which are well known abroad. Italian bread is light and pleasant to the taste, and many kinds of rolls and cakes are artistically shaped. Ricotta, as well as maca- roni, and Risotti, a rice pudding, may be called a national dish, as it makes its appearance almost daily on Italian tables. Although possessing fruit in abundance their syrups are inferior to those of France, and hence, doubtless, are little used, but the use of lemonade ITALIAN COOKEEY 597 as a beverage is universal. In the manufacture of ices they certainly excel, and in the variety and excellence of their bon=^bons they nearly equal the French. A great deal of fruit is consumed, and no coun- try is richer in its productions of this kind. Oil is very generally used in their cooking now, as in olden times, taking the place of but- ter used in English and American cooking, and of course this affects the flavor of many dishes. BRACCIOLETTE.— Take a fillet of beef, remove all fat and gristle, and mince it finely, mixing with it salt, 1 or 2 cloves (pow- dered), and a little olive oil and chopped fat bacon, sweet herbs and parsley to taste. When well amalgamated, roll it out and divide into small pieces; form each into a ball, roll them in liquified butter, and then in fine bread crumbs. Just before they are wanted, broil them on a good fire, first on one side, then on the other; if done too long they will be spoiled. CROCCANTE — Take | lb. finely chopped (and blanched) sweet almonds, -J lb. loaf sugar, 1 tablespoon essence of lemon, a piece of butter the size of a walnut; boil in a sauce=pan till it browns (15 to 20 minutes); turn into a flat, buttered pan and cut when cold into small pieces, eating cold. GNIOCCHI OF SEMOLINA.— Take 1 lb. good semolina and 1 pint milk. Put the milk, with an equal quantity of water, on the fire, and before it reaches the boiling point sprinkle in the semolina; then let it boil, stirring all the time. When sufiiciently cooked, turn it out on the pasteboard, which should be previously sprinkled with cold water. When cold, cut the paste into pieces the size of a wal- nut. Put them on a dish, season them well with grated Parmesan cheese, sugar and cinnamon, and add butter. Put them in the Dutch oven and bake 1 hour before serving. MINESTRA. — Cut up 3 or 4 potatoes, add a proportionate quan- tity of beans (dried ones are best), onions, carrots, and celery sliced, and, if in season, sliced vegetable marrow and pumpkin riiid. Boil all these in ^ sauce-pan of water till the potatoes are quite soft, adding salt. Then add ^ lb. rice or macaroni; boil a little longer, as the rice ought not to be soft, and before taking off the fire add 1 oz. butter (a spoonful of olive oil is orthodox), and as much Parmesan cheese; stir a few moments and serve. Grated cheese may with advantage be added afterwards. RICOTTA. — Strain 1 gallon of fresh whey into a flat copper pan, put it on a gentle fire, and as soon as a kind of froth begins to rise 598 SPANISH COOKEKY on it add 1 quart of milk, and stir the mixture lightly with a stick until a thick froth rises all over the surface; gather this froth with a spoon, and jDut it to drain in a very fine tin colander, and the ricotta is made. Carefully avoid letting the milk and whey come to a boil at any time during the process. ' RISOTTO. — Take ^ lb. rice, and boil it with sufficient salt in a little more water than will cover it, till the rice begins to swell; it must not get too soft. Then add a pinch of saffron, just to color it, or, if possible, 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce; also about 1 oz. butter, and as much grated Parmesan cheese; stir for a few minutes, and serve. This is for 4 people. POLENTA WITH GRAVY.— Into 1| gallons of water put 1 teaspoon salt, and when it boils stir in gradually, stirring all the time, 1 tablespoon butter and 2 cups semoule or coarse cornmeal; boil 20 minutes. Then put a layer of the polenta in a dish, cover with tomato sauce and good gravy (having a cup of each hot and ready) and sprinkle with grated cheese. Put it into the dish in al- ternate layers in this way, and serve hot. SPANISH COOKERY. In Spain the inhabitants subsist, mainly on maize and rice, with some wheat and legumes, among them the garbanzo or " chick pea." There is little butter used, the universal substitute being olive oil which is produced in great quantities. Fowls and the pig furnish the chief animal food, and garlic is the favorite condiment. Fruit is fine and abundant; especially so are grapes, figs and melons. Sev- eral Spanish recipes appear elsewhere in our work! OLLA PODRIDA — First and foremost among soups comes the far-famed olla podrida, which is so supremely dear to the national heart. It is made as follows: Spread a little butter over the bottom of a 4=quart sized kettle or stew-pan; uj)on this lay 4 onions cut in slices, and then 4 lbs. of gravy^beef cut in thick slices, and ^ lb. raw ham or lean bacon, an old partridge or pheasant; add 2 carrots, celery and parsley roots, a bay leaf, thyme, and a clove of garlic tied up tightly, 6 cloves, and a bit of mace ; moisten with a quart of water or stock, and boil down to a glaze, or until it begins to fry; fill up then with water or stock and simmer gently 2 hours; strain into the soup= pot containing carrots, turnips, celery and leeks, all cut fine. Then add a pint of garhanzos (Spanish peas), previously soaked and SPANISH COOKERY 599 boiled, and a dessertspoon of Spanish sweet red peppers chopped fine; boil gently until the vegetables are done. Have the meat cut in small pieces in the tureen, pour the hot soup over it, and serve with bread. This of itself forms an excellent dinner. AJO BLANCO. — This soup is extensively used in Andalusia. Pound 1 clove of garlic and 7 well-dried beans (or, better still, almonds), in a small spice mortar to a smooth paste. Moisten this paste with olive oil, drop by drop, then add water by degrees so as to thoroughly in- corporate and amalgamate the whole; add un- til it is sufficiently wet to soak some bread, which must be added later on, pouring in some vinegar and a little salt. Then put in the bread crumbs, size of half an almond, and allow it to soak. A final mixing of the bowl, olives. and this quaint and perfectly national dish awaits consumption. BACALAO. — In this land of rigid Catholicism, bacalao or salted cod, is almost indispensable on the many fast days in the calendar. Cut up the cod after it has been soaked 24 hours, and lay the pieces so as to cover the bottom of a small earthen jar; pour on this a thick stratum of grated bread, with garlic and parsley in profusion; then more codfish, then bread again, and so on till the jar is full to the top. Fill all the crevices with raw oil, garlic, pepper and salt. Close the jar and boil till the contents are nearly dry; then serve. Codfish with honey or sugar may be eaten by boiling the pieces, draining them dry, then soaking in honey, flouring, and then frying; or the pieces may be covered with yolk of egg, floured, and covered over with sugar; then fry. CARBONADA. — Cut cold roast mutton or beef into pieces about 1 inch square, and also about equal amounts of squash and cold po- tatoes; take also 2 or 3 ears of corn and a few string beans; put 1 ta- blespoon of lard into a pot, 1 onion chopped fine, then the squash, then 2 ripe tomatoes skinned and squeezed, and 1 red pepper with the seeds removed, then the other vegetables; cover with boiling water and stew 30 minutes; put in the meat and stew 30 minutes more; salt to taste. Ten minutes before serving put in the corn cut in small pieces. FRIJOLES. — Cook pink beans until soft, in boiling water; drain, and mix in finely chopped onions, and a little of the water in which 600 JEWISH COOKEKY the beans were cooked; add salt and fry a light brown in smoking hot fat, OTAMO. — Slice equal amounts of onions and green tomatoes, and add a little bell peppers. Put fresh drippings and a little hot water into a hot skillet, add the vegetables and cook 1 hour, keeping closely covered, but stirring often. Serve hot. RED PEPPER SAUCE.— Carefully remove the seeds from 2 sweet red peppers, and boil until tender; then drain, add 1 clove of garlic, and rub to a paste, adding a little water if necessary; then heat ^ cup sweet oil, stir in the paste, season with vineger and salt, after removing from the fire, and serve. JEWISH COOKERY. Jewish cookery is becoming much like that of their Christian neighbors, as, except among the more denominationally strict, the old restrictions are melting away, and they often employ Christian ser- vants. From having been forbidden to use butter with meat, oil enters more largely into their cookery of both meat and vegetables. Their fish fried in oil, and so cooked that it can be eaten cold or hot, enjoys a deservedly high reputation. As the Mosaic law forbids the use of any flesh as food which is not free from " spot or blemish " the meat supplied by the Jewish butchers is of the best quality AMNASTICH. — Stew gently 1 pint of rice in 1 quart of strong gravy till it begins to swell; then add an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a chicken stuffed with forcemeat; let it stew with the rice till thoroughly done, then take it up and stir into the rice the yolks of 4 eggs and the juice of a lemon; serve the fowl in the same dish wnth the rice, which should be colored to a fine yellow with saffron. MATSO CAKES — Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and milk and water; add a little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar; cut into pieces, and mold with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven. These cakes should not be too thin. PASSOVER PUDDING.— Mix equal quantities of biscuit powder and shredded suet, half as much currants and raisins, a little spice and sugar, with 1 oz. candied peels, and 5 well=beaten eggs; make them into a stiff batter, and boil well, and serve with a sweet sauce. This pudding is excellent baked in a pudding tin. It must be turned out when served. TURKISH AND RUSSIAN COOKERY 601 TURKISH COOKERY. CERKESTAL. — Remains of fowls may be stewed with an onion, pepper, salt, and a little water. Wash and bruise 6 walnuts, and mix them in some of the gravy, adding a small quantity of cayenne pep- per, and serve this as a sauce. DOLMAS — Chop some mutton or beef very fine, with a little of the fat; add an onion, pepper, salt, and a little boiled rice, and mix it all together. Then take some cabbage leaves and put them into boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, and then roll the meat into them like small sausages; then stew them in a little broth or water, with a small piece of butter in it. PILAU — Well wash 6 oz. of East Indian rice, and boil it in a pint of water for 5 minutes at the most; then throw it into a colander that it may thoroughly drain. Next place it in a stew-pan with 1 oz. butter, salt and pepper to taste, stirring well, and add by degrees about ^ pint of good fowl broth. After 15 or 20 minutes it should be perfectly done and turn out with the grains separate. It is to be served perfectly hot. The foregoing is true pilau, but additions may be made of portions of the meat of the fowl; of thin slices of bacon, curry powder, chutney, fried onions, mushrooms, tomatoes etc., but in none of these forms would it be regarded as the true Oriental dish, RUSSIAN COOKERY. The Russian people during the great fasts (which last 4 to 7 weeks, and which recur 4 times during the year) sustain themselves mainly on soup made with the bitter cabbages, and a handful of dry salted fish called sniedky. It is clean tasted, but one must be a lover of this fish to relish it. Like many other northern nations the Rus- sians are fond of a subacid flavor in their food. Many of their soups are thus flavored, and where they are not, a very common thing is for a dish of sour cream to be at hand with which the consumer gives his food the degree of acidity which suits his palate, a spoonful or two being enough to convert an excellent dish of soup into what many would consider a sour and unpalatable mess. The most char- acteristic national food in Russia, and the daily food of the mass of the people, is slichi. It is made as follows: SHCHl. — At the beginning of winter, chop cabbage into shreds and put it into a barrel with vinegar and salt. It becomes a kind of sauerkraut when a certain amount of fermentation has taken place. 602 EUSSIAN COOKERY It must be watched, because if the fermentation goes too far it acquires a high and disagreeable flavor. A portion of this is taken (almost daily) and boiled with meat to a kind of broth, which is the shchi. By adding different flavors it can be varied indefinitely, and if well made it is excellent. Some of the meat from which it is made is usually served with the broth. NALYM — Chop an onion, fry it in 2 spoonfuls fresh butter melt- ed; add 1 spoonful flour; mix, pour in a little water and set it to sim- mer. When it begins to boil put in 5 or 6 potatoes, cut into piieces, and add salt. Take fish, clean, salt, cut in convenient pieces, add to the former, and let all simmer together; add some barley grits, a little parsley and black pepper. Russians call this nalym, but it is translated lavaret, a name familiar to travelers as that of a kind of trout which inhabit the lakes of Switzerland. Russia is especially rich in fresh water fish, but sea fish is little used. Shchi is some- times made with sea fish. PICNICS. PICNIC may be made a thoroughly enjoyable entertainment if properly managed, and if not it can engender great dis- satisfaction. One of the first essentials is the lunch. If it is a picnic in which several families unite, and there is simply a general understanding that each one is to bring something, there is apt to be too much of one thing and nothing of some quite essential article. The easiest way to avoid this is to have the ladies meet beforehand and make out a list of the things desired, and then request each one to bring her share — one bringing sandwiches, an- other fruit, and so on. Or appoint one competent lady to make out the menu-, and assign to each one her share. In this way much more satisfactory results will be obtained than by the haphazard plan. For neatness, economy and comfort, buy paper napkins. The articles which are likely to be wanted first should be packed at the top of the picnic- hamper. Cover little wooden or pepper plates with a lettuce leaf; it can be removed, a fresh leaf supplied, and the plate will be clean for the last course. As for the provisions, the articles suitable are very numerous. And do not forget the accompaniments to the different dishes; thus if you have pie remember the cheese, and so on. Jellies and creams are more easily carried in their molds than when turned out. Butter is also best carried in a tumbler or covered dish. No cold lunch is complete without sweet pickles, pickled peaches or olives. Pickled beans or bottled pickles are also in favor at such times. Sandwiches you will want of course, and we give directions for making a great variety of these elsewhere. For meats, game is always agreeable, and boiled ham, cold tongue, sausages, veal loaf, pressed veal, or chicken, and fried chicken are all suitable. . Eggs, hard boiled, stuffed or deviled, are always relished, and so are salads and sardines. There should be an abundance of fruit, and cake and pies as may be desired. For drinks there is nothing better than lemonade. It is better to squeeze out the juice at home, sweeten it, and put it in bottles, and then by putting some in water and stirring it the lemonade is ready. Cold tea and cold coffee can be taken, and many fruit syrups make palatable drinks. Caterers now sell tea frappe, iced coffee and cold milk, delivered in little coolers packed in ice similar to ice cream. If ice can be carried it will be found very useful in many ways. 603 TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON. Apples. All the year. Apricots. June to September. Artichokes. September to November. Asparagus. May and June, Bass. All the year. Beans. Lima, all the year; string, June to November. Bear. December and January. Beef. All the year. Beets. All the year. Blackberries. July to September. Blueberries. August and September, Bluefish. June to October. Brocoli. All the year. Brussels sprouts. September to November. Butternuts. October through the winter. Cabbage. All the year. Cantelopes. July to September. Carp. October to March. Carrots. All the year. Cauliflower. June until March. Celery. September to April. Checkerberries. Winter and Spring. Cherries. June to August. Chestnuts. From October on. Chickens. March to October. Chub. July to December. Clams. May until December. Cod. All the year. Corn. Green, from June to September. Crabs. June to December. Cranberries. September to May. Cray=fish. All the year. Cucumbers. June to November. Currants. July to September. Cusk. DecemlDer to March. Dace. June to December. Damsons. August to November, Doves, turtle. August and September. Ducks, Wild, fall and spring; domestic, June to October. Eels. April to November. Elderberries. August to October. Endive. August to November. 604 TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON 605 Figs. September and October. Flounders. All the year. Fowls. All the year. Goose. September to December. Gooseberries. June to September. Grapes. September to December. Greengages. August and September. Grouse. August to November. Gudgeon. June to December. Guinea Fowls. Best in winter. Haddock. September to February. Halibut. All the year. Herrings. December to April. Horseradish. All the year. Kale. May to March. Lamb. March to September. Best after June. Lampreys. All the year. Leeks. October to May. Lemons. All the year. Lettuce. May to November. Ling. All the year. Lobsters. All the year. Less used in winter. Mackerel. May to October. Medlars. October to January. Mullet. All the year. Mushrooms. August and September. Muskmelons. July to September. Mussels. January to April. Mutton. All the year. Not so good in the fall. Nectarines. August to November. Onions. All the year. Opossum. October to February. Oranges. All the year. Oysters. September to April. Parsnips. October to April. Partridges. September to January. Peaches. August to November. Pears. August to October. Peas. June to September. Perch. June to October. Pheasants. September to January. Pickerel. September to March. Pigeons. Wild, in September and October. Pike. September to February. Place. All the year. Plover. October to January. Plums. August to October. Pork. Better not to eat it in the hot months. Potatoes, Irish. All the year. Potatoes, sweet. August to December. 606 TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IxX SEASON Prawns. All the year. Prunes. Fresh, from December to April. Ptarmagan. September to April. Pumpkins. September to January. Quail. November and December. Quinces. October to December. Rabbits. September to February. Raccoon. In the fall. Radishes. April to November. Rail. September to November. Raspberries. June to September, Reed bird. September to November. Rhubarb. April to September. Salmon. May to September. Salsify. June to October. Savoy. October to March. Scallops. January to June. Shad. February to June. Shrimps. All the year. Smelts. October to March. Snipe. October to February. Spinach. March to December, Sprats. November to March. Squash. Winter, through the winter. Summer, June to August. Strawberries. June to September. Sturgeon. April to September. Suckers October to April. • Swordfish. July to September. Teal. October to February. Tantog. July to September. Tomatoes. June to December. Trout. Lake, October to March; brook, March to August. Turbot. All the year. Turkeys. All the year. Best in fall and winter. Turnips. All the year. Turtles. May to December. Veal. All the year. Vegetable marrow. June to October. Venison. August to January. Walnuts. October through the winter. Watermelon. July to October. Watercress. All the year. Whitebait. January to September. Whitefish. October to March. Whiting. All the year. Wigeon. October to February. Woodcock. September to February. WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 607 TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS. The following lists of foods in season will be found useful in preparing menus, etc., as it can be seen at a glance what foods are in season in any month in the year. FOODS IN SEASON IN JANUARY. Vegetables.^Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chervil, cresses, parsnips, potatoes, pumpkins, savoys, squash, turnips, various herbs. Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry — Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, turkeys. Game — Bear, opossum, grouse, partridges, pheasants, rabbits, snipe, venison, wild fowl, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eels flounder, haddock, halibut, herring, lamprey, ling, perch, pike, place, shrimp, smelts, sprats, sturgeon, lake trout, turbot, whitebait, whitefish, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray^fish, lobsters, mussels, oysters, prawns, scallops. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, dates, figs, oranges prunes, raisins, almonds, brazil nuts, chestnuts, filberts, walnuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN FEBRUARY. Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chervil, cresses, parsnips, potatoes, savoy, squash, turnips, var- ious herbs. Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry — Capons, tame pigeons, fowls, guinea fowls, turkey. Game. — Opossum, rabbits, snipe, wigeon, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eel, halibut, herring, ling, salmon, smelts, sprat, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whitefish, whiting. Shell- fish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, mussel, prawn, oysters, scallops, shrimps. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruit, dates, figs, prunes, raisins, almonds, butternuts, v,^alnuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN MARCH. Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, various herbs. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame pigeons, fowls, tur- keys, eggs. Game. — Ducks, hares, snipe. Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lamprey, haddock, halibut, herring, mackerel, mullet, mussel, perch, pike, place, salm- on, shad, smelt, sprat, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whiting, whitebait, whitefish. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, mussel, oysters, prawn, shrimp. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruits, dates, figs, prunes, raisins, almonds, nuts. 608 WHEN FOODS AEE IN SEASON BY MONTHS FOODS IN SEASON IN APRIL. Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, onions, par- snips, potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, sea=kale, spinach, turnips, various herbs. Meats. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, turkeys. Game. — Brant, ducks, sni^je. Fish. — Bass, cod, flounders, halibut, herring, ling, mullet, place, salmon, shad, smelts, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crab, cray=fish, lobster, mussel, oyster, prawn, shrimp. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruit, dates, figs, prunes, raisins, almonds, nuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN MAY. Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cresses, kale, greens, lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnips. Meats. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, turkeys. Game. — Brant. Fish. — Bass, bluefish, carp, chub, cod, eels, flounders, halibut, mackerel, mullet, salmon, shad, smelt, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whit- ing, whitebait. Shell-fish— Jjohster, prawns, scallops, turtles. Fruit. — Apples, oranges, rhubarb, strawberries, dried fruits, raisins, figs, dates, almonds, nuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN JUNE. Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, green corn, cucumbers, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, tomatoes, turnips. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, turkeys. Fish. — Bass, blue fish, carp, cod, eel, flounder, halibut, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, place, salmon, shad,, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Clams, lobsters, prawns, shrimp, turtles. Fruit — Apples, cherries, currants, gooseberries, oranges, rasp- berries, rhubarb, strawberries. FOODS IN SEASON IN JULY. Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cresses, green corn, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable mar- row, various herbs. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, turkeys. Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod, eels, fiounder, halibut, mackerel, mullet, place, salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, tautog, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Cray-fish, lobsters, prawn, shrimp, turtles. WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 609 Fruit. — Apples, apricots, blackberries, cherries, currants, goose- berries, muskmelons, oranges, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, watermelons, almonds, raisins, nuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN AUGUST. Vegetables. — Beans, beets, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cresses, green corn, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, sea=kale, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, various herbs. Meat — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, pigeons, turkeys. Game. — Blackcock, grouse, prairie chickens, venison, woodcock. Fish — Bass, blue=fish, cod, chub, eels, flounders, halibut, lam- preys, mackerel, mullet, salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, tautog, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobster, prawns, shrimp, turtles. Fruit. — Apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, currants, el-' derberries, figs, gooseberries, muskmelons, oranges, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, watermelons. FOODS IN SEASON IN SEPTEMBEE. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cresses, cucumbers, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb, sea=kale, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, various herbs. Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, turkeys. Game. — Blackcock, brant, grouse, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, prairie chickens, rabbits, rail, reedbird, venison, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod, dace, flounders, haddock, hali- but, mackerel, mullet, perch, place, pike, pickerel, salmon, swordflsh, sturgeon, tautog, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray-fish, lobster, oysters, prawns, shrimp, turtle. Fruit. — Apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, cranberries, elderberries, figs, gooseberries, grapes, muskmelons, oranges, peaches, pears, plums, raspberries, watermelons. FOODS IN SEASON IN OCTOBER. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, kale, lettuce, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, various herbs. Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, geese, fowls, turkeys. Game. — Brant, goose, grouse, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, prairie chickens, rabbits, rail, reedbirds, snipe, venison, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod, dace, eels, flounders, haddock, halibut, mackerel, mullet, pickerel, pike, place, smelts, trout, turbot, whitefish, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray-fish, lobsters, oysters prawn, shrimps, turtles. 39 610 WHEN FOODS AKE IN SEASON BY MONTHS Fruit — Apples, cranberries, damsons, grapes, oranges, peaclies, pears, plums, quinces, butternuts, chestnuts, walnuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN NOVEMBER. Vegetables — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, kale, lettuce, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, squash, spinach, turnips, various herbs. Meat — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry. — Chickens, geese, fowls, turkeys. Game. — Blackcock, goose, grouse, opossum, partridges, pheas- ants, quails, rabbits, snipe, venison, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, carp, chub, cod, dace, eels, flounder, haddock, hali- but, perch, pickerel, pike, place, smelts, sprats, trout, turbot, white- fish, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray-fish, lobster, oyster, prawns, shrimps. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, grapes, oranges, peaches, quinces, almonds, filberts, butternuts, chestnuts, walnuts. FOODS IN SEASON IN DECEMBER. Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, kale, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, parsnips, pumpkins, squash, turnips. Meat — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. Poultry — Chickens, geese, pigeons, fowls, turkeys. Game. — Bear, goose, grouse, opossum, partridges, pheasants, quail, rabbits, snipe, venison, woodcock. Fish. — Bass, carp, chub, cod, cusk, dace, eels, flounder, haddock, halibut, herring, ling, mullet, perch, pike, pickerel, place, smelts, sprats, trout, whitefish, whiting. Shell-fish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, mussel, oysters, prawns, shrimps. Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, grapes, oranges, prunes, quinces, dried fruits, dates, figs, raisins, almonds, butternuts, chestnuts, wal- nuts. BILLS OF FARE. " It takes more brains to prepare a good dinner than it does to learn French and German or to write a good essay." TTTHE woman who in addition to all the other cares of house- ) I ^ keeping has to provide bills of fare for the family 3 times a '^X day for 865 days in the year is often perplexed to know what to serve at each meal. To provide well for a family requires study and forethought, but it will amply repay the effort. In many homes there is a great lack of variety in the food prepared. The tendency to fall into ruts must be guarded against, as a well planned variety is most conducive to both the health and pleasure of the eaters. In preparing the food for a family there are 2 things to bear in mind: (1) A sufficient quantity of the essential food elements (al- bumenoids, carbohydrates and fats) must be provided for each mem- ber of the family, because, after all, the great object in eating is to furnish the system with the nourishment it needs to keep it in health and vigor, and this object is usually best attained by supplying a suitable variety of food. (2) The food should be so presented as to be both palatable and attractive to the eye, so that it may minister to the taste as well as the palate. This is quite as true of the plainest fare as of the most elaborate banqu'et, and these principles apply equally to both. We think our best course will be to explain the general principles which underlie the arrangements of bills of fare, and leave our readers to apply those principles for themselves, although we will give some bills of fare for the different seasons of the year. Children should not be made to eat foods which do not agree with them, or which are really distasteful to them; neither should too much attention be paid to their whims, and they should be required to eat whatever wholesome food is set before them without making any senseless disturbance. Purchasiag Provisions. — The housekeeper who would most suitably provide for her table should know what are the best products of the season, both vegetable and animal, and ordinarily it is best to buy when the supply is greatest and the price lowest. BREAKFAST — The appetite is apt to be more capricious and variable at breakfast than at any other meal. It is best to plan for it 611 612 BILLS OF FAKE the day before and endeavor to have it hot and nutritious, as well as light and attractive. It makes a good deal of difference to the worker whether a right start is made in the morning or not. Melons or other fruit when in season are always suitable for breakfast, and fruit is well known to be more wholesome then than at any other time. Most families do not use fruits for breakfast half freely enough. It is not best to serve oatmeal more than 2 or 3 times a week, and even once a week is preferred by some; vary the fare from day to day by using in its place cracked wheat, hominy, or cornmeal mush. Eggs can be used freely in their season, and cooked in vari- ous ways, boiled, poached, fried, omelet, etc. Broiled fish of any kind is suitable, and in spring serve with it radishes or lettuce. Other suitable dishes are salt fish with cream sauce; cold tongue, cold ham or any cold meat; mutton chops and an occasional steak; fricassee of chicken or veal, ham and eggs, and hash of any kind; hash on toast, and toast in any form, as milk, water or dry toast. Have potatoes cooked in various savory and attractive ways, as baked, Saratoga chips, etc. Have the bread light and well baked, and always have some kind of coarse bread, either hot or cold. Muf- fins, gems and griddle cakes are all relished and so are olives and pickles. For beverages coffee is the standby, with tea or milk for those who cannot drink coffee. ARRANGING A BILL OF FARE FOR DINNER.— While no bills of fare can be given which would be suitable for all our readers, because the state of the markets, the means and tastes of different families, and so on, would suggest numberless modifications, the rule for the formation of bills of fare can be easily explained. Among the mass of the people dinners will usually consist of 3 courses: (1) Soup or fish. (2) The substantial of the meal, as meat and vegetables. (3) The dessert of pudding, pie, etc. Now even the most elaborate dinners are based on 'this same plan, and are only modifications and elaborations of it. A little thought will show that the arrangement of a well planned dinner, even though elaborate, is not arbitrary, but is based on a knowledge of foods and the best way to please the palate. Thus a highly flavored dish should never be followed at once by an insipid one; therefore if there are 3 entries the most savory should be last. So, also, if 2 highly flavored dishes should come to- gether, if something like olives or a salad is served between them, it would freshen the palate and enhance the enjoyment of the second one. BILLS OF FARE 613 We will give the plan of an elaborate dinner, and when the plan is once understood any reader can easily modify it to suit her circumstances. It should, however, be understood that the quality of a dinner does not depend on the number and cost of the dishes. Although they may be simple and few in number, if well cooked and tastefully presented the dinner may rank with the best. On the other hand let no one imagine that the manner of serving is of no importance. Very little more work, and no more expense is involved in serving a dinner tastefully than in a careless and indifferent manner, but the effect on the family is very different. If any reader feels that she does not understand these things, she should remember that she can learn. In the following plan we follow Mrs. Henderson in the main, as her outline is most excellent. 1st Course. — Raw oysters, or little clams. 2nd Course. — Soup of any kind. 3rd Course. — Cold hors-d'oeuvres; these are served as appetizers, and follow the soups. They consist of olives, cold slaw, raw cucum- bers, artichokes, radishes, sardines, anchovies, pickled beets or oys- ters, preserved herrings, figs, etc. 4th Course. — Fish or shelhfish of any kind. 5th Course. — Hot hors d'oeuvres; these include the light entries like sweetbreads, croquettes, vol=au=vents of meat or fish, etc. 6th Course. — Releves or removes; these include the substantial dishes, such as roast beef, veal, mutton or lamb, roast turkey or chicken, venison, ham, etc. 7th Course. — Entrees; these include cutlets of any kind, cro- quettes, fricassees, scallops, salmis, any game or meat made into side dishes, etc. 8th Course. — Entremets; these include any dressed vegetables served alone, such as corn, asparagus, spinach, artichokes, cauliflower, string beans, fritters, macaroni, etc. 9th Course. — Rotes (roasts); these include any kind of roast game. Salad is often served with this, and it is also often made a course by itself, and following immediately after. 10th Course. — Cheese, cheese cakes or macaroni and cheese; this is often served with the salad. 11th Course, — Sweet entremets; which includes pastry, puddings, jellies, creams, etc, 12th Course, — Glaces; which include water ices, ice creams, etc, 13th Course, — This consists of the fruits, nuts, raisins, etc. Then follows the coffee, with which crackers or little cakes often go. VEGETABLES TO SERVE WITH DIFFERENT MEATS AND FISH. There are a few combinations of dishes which by common con- sent go well together, and although some thoughtless jjeople pay lit- tle heed to them they are worth studying. The following list will be 614 BILLS OF FARE helpful to young housekeepers by showing some of the most appro- priate vegetables to serve v^^ith different meats and fish. Beef, Corned. — Cabbage, carrots, beets, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, pickles. Beef, Roast. — Beets, beans, macaroni, potatoes, boiled rice, squash, turnips, or any vegetables that are in season, horseradish, mushroom sauce. Beefsteak. — Beans, corn, peas, potatoes, parsnips, squash, toma- toes, or any other vegetables that are in season. Slices of lemon im- part a pleasant flavor. Birds of any Kind. — Beans, baked macaroni, mashed potatoes, tur- nips, currant or other acid jelly. Cliicken, Boiled — Lettuce, boiled rice, parsnips, potatoes, toma- toes, turnips, currant jelly, cranberry, celery or oyster sauce. Cliicken, Roast. — Beans, beets, celery, corn, onions, baked pota- toes, squash, and any vegetable in season; currant or other acid jelly. Cauliflower is especially nice with fried chicken. Calf's Head. — Beans, dandelions, celery, macaroni, horseradish, parsnips, potatoes, spinach. ^ Duck, Roast — Baked macaroni, corn, beans, onions, mashed pota- toes, boiled rice, squash, apple sauce. Fowls, Roast. — Beans, corn, celery, onions, potatoes, squash, sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce Goose, Roast. — Beans, baked macaroni, onions, mashed potatoes, boiled rice, squash, turnips, apple sauce. Game. — This requires an acid jelly, while potatoes, tomatoes, spinach and salads are appropriate. Fish, Baked. — Beans, corn, lettuce, mashed potatoes, sweet pota- toes, squash, drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce. Fish, Boiled. — Potatoes, squash, turnips, tomatoes, horseradish, lemon, tomato sauce, or tartar sauce. Fish, Fried — Cucumbers, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, horseradish, sauce tartare. Lamb, Boiled — Asparagus, peas, potatoes, spinach, turnips. Lamb Chops — Asparagus, lettuce, potatoes, pickles, sweet pota- toes, turnips, tomato sauce. Lamb, Roast. — String beans, corn, green peas, potatoes, summer squash, turnips, mint sauce. Mutton, Boiled. — Baked macaroni, potatoes (mashed), turnips (mashed), currant jelly, mint sauce. Mutton Chops. — Lettuce, potatoes, turnips, sweet potatoes, pickles, tomato sauce. Mutton, Roast — Onions (boiled), turnips (mashed), potatoes (mashed), asparagus, cauliflower, spinach, green peas, currant jelly. Salad is served with it by the English. Pork, Roast. — Onions, boiled rice, potatoes, sweet potatoes, toma- toes, squash, apple sauce, or fried apples. With pork sausage send fried apples or apple sauce. Sweetbreads — Peas, asparagus, cauliflower, tomatoes, macaroni and cheese. BILLS OF FARE 615 Turkey, Boiled. — Lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, currant jelly, oyster, cranberry or celery sauce. Turkey, Roast. — Beans, corn, cold slaw, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash, tomatoes, turnips, cranberry, plum, currant, or other acid jelly. Veal, Boiled. — Macaroni and cheese, horseradish, mashed potatoes, spinach. Veal, Roast.^ — Asparagus, horseradish, parsnips, mashed potatoes, spinach, sweet potatoes. Veal Steak. — Lettuce, horseradish, potatoes, spinach, sweet pota- toes. Venison, Roast. — Onions, potatoes (mashed), squash, turnips, cur- rant or other acid jelly. Venison Steaks. — Parsnips, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, turnips. Soup. — This is usually served alone, but crackers and pickles go well with oyster soup. Cold slaw can go with soup and be eaten with it, or after the soup plates are removed. The French serve thin slices of buttered brown bread with soup. Grated cheese goes well with macaroni and vermicelli soup, and boiled rice with gumbo soup, putting a spoonful in each plate of soup. BILLS OF FARE. It is hoped that the following bills of fare which have been arranged with a view to palatableness, healthfulness and economy, may aid some, busy housekeepers who are often perplexed to knov/ what to serve for meals. BILLS OF FARE FOR JANUARY. SUNDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, lyonnaise potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast sirloin of beef, horseradish sauce, browned potatoes, corn, mince pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — White bread, sardine salad, sliced oranges and bananas, angel's food, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, slices of cold beef, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, mutton chops, mashed potatoes, potato salad, French dressing, cheese, floating island, coffee. Supper. — Tea biscuit, escalloped oysters, pickled peaches, stewed fruit, cake, tea. TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Hominy, potato croquettes, boiled eggs, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, fricassee of chicken, baked sweet potato, boiled rice, salad, pumpkin pie, coffee. 616 BILLS OF FARE Supper. — French rolls, veal omelet, potato salad, sponge cake, tea or chocolate. WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, wheat grits, sausage, corn- meal cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast spare rib, apple sauce, baked pota- toes, stewed tomatoes, salad, squash pie, coffee or tea. Supper. — Sliced spare rib, brown bread and butter, canned fruit, cake, tea. THURSDAY, — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, creamed codfish, baked potatoes, graham gems, coffee. ■ Dinner. — Soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, boiled rice, cauliflower, salad, bread pudding, coffee or tea. Supper — French rolls, veal omelet, pickled peaches, stewed prunes, gingerbread, tea. FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, broiled white fish, fried po- tatoes, corn bread, coffee. Dinner. — Bean soup, baked halibut, Hollandaise sauce, Saratoga potatoes, stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, apple pie, lady fingers, coffee. Supper. — Cold mutton, bechamel sauce, creamed potatoes, cold slaw, orange fritters, tea. SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, fried tripe, cream sauce, omelet, griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, rolled steak, brown sauce, mashed pota- toes, baked sweet potatoes, celery, baked custard, coffee. Supper. — White bread and butter, egg omelet, potato balls, apple sauce, lemon cake, tea or chocolate. BILLS OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY. SUNDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, mutton chops, muffins, griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast turkey, cranberry sauce, boiled rice, baked sweet potatoes, canned corn, celery salad, mince pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Bread and milk, crackers toasted with cheese, fruit, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, cold turkey, buckwheat cakes, coffee. Dinner — Clear soup, baked ham, apple sauce, boiled potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, cold slaw, rice pudding, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Baked oysters, fried hominy, graham bread and butter, cake, tea. BILLS OF FAKE 617 TUESDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, slices of cold ham, eggs, wheat gems, coffee. Dinner — Oyster soup, broiled sirloin, mashed potatoes, canned corn, celery, pumpkin pie, cofPee. Supper. — Egg omelett, Saratoga potatoes, brown bread and but- ter, stewed prunes, cake, chocolate or tea. WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit farina, eggs and bacon, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner — Soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, cabbage, beets, oyster salad, apple pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Chicken salad, toasted crackers, white bread, olives, lemon cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, corn beef hash, wheat cakes, cofPee. Dinner. — Celery soup, fricassee of chicken, cream sauce^ rice cro- quettes, peas, boiled potatoes, beet salad, corn^starch blanc mange, coffee. Supper — Slices of cold corn beef, scrambled eggs, brown bread, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, farina, poached eggs on toast, baked potatoes, graham muffins, cofPee. Dinner — Bean soup, baked cod, egg sauce, mashed potatoes, baked cabbage, potato salad, suet pudding, hard sauce, cheese, cofPee or tea. Supper. — Roast oysters, French rolls, canned peaches, chocolate cake, tea. SATURDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, sausage, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, Irish stew, baked sweet potatoes, cold slaw, celery, prune pudding, cheesy, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, 'brown bread and butter, canned fruit cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR MARCH. SUNDAY — -Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, scrambled eggs, baked potatoes, buttered toast, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast duck, currant jelly, boiled potatoes, sweet potato croquettes, squash, white turnips, cranberry pie, cofPee. Supper. — Sardines, graham bread and butter, preserves, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cerealine, slices of cold duck, fried potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, cold duck, apple sauce, Saratoga pota- toes, peas, salad, tapioca pudding, coffee. 618 BILLS OF FARE Supper. — Potato salad, brown bread and butter, baked apples, cake, tea. TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, codfish with cream, baked potatoes, buttered toast, coffee. Dinner. — Oyster soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, mashed potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, spinach, baked Indian pudding, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Slices of cold mutton, potato salad, graham bread, stewed fruit, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, slices of cold mutton, stewed potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, beefsteak, Saratoga potatoes, macaroni with cheese, salad, custard pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Hash, Saratoga potatoes, brown and white bread, jelly, cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, poached eggs on toast, baked potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Bean soup, scalloped veal, potato balls, cream sauce, stewed celery, salad, corn^starch pudding, coffee. Supper. — Scrambled eggs, brown bread, sliced oranges and sugar, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, hash, graham gems, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner — Clam soup, boiled salmon, drawn butter sauce, boiled potatoes, boiled rice, pickled turnips, suet pudding, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, cheese omelet, graham bread, preserves, cake, tea SATURDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roasi fillet of veal, cream sauce, Sara- toga potatoes, stewed celery, baked sweet potatoes, lemon pie, cheese, coff'ee. Supper. — Slices of cold veal, potato salad, brown bread, cookies, cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR APRIL. SUNDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, ham, omelet, Saratoga potatoes, rice, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, roast mutton, boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes, baked macaroni, lettuce salad, custard pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Slices of cold mutton, brown bread and butter, baked apples, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast.—Fruit, farina, codfish balls, baked pota- toes, muffins, coff'ee. BILLS OF FARE 619 Dinner. — Soup, mutton stew on toast, boiled potatoes, boiled macaroni, cold slaw, tapioca pudding, coffee. Supper. — Scrambled eggs, white and graham bread, preserves, cake, tea. TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, fried potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, veal croquettes, bechamel sauce, mashed potatoes, stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, lemon pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Oyster stew, white bread and crackers, stewed fruit, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, egg omelet, baked potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, fried steak, horseradish, mashed potatoes, canned corn, potato salad, cream pie, cheese, coffee. Supper — Beef hash, brown bread and butter, bananas and cream, cake, tea. THURSDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, creamed dried beef. Lyonnaise potatoes, pop overs, coffee. Dinner — Vegetable soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, cucumber salad, apple pie, coffee. Supper. — Cold corn beef, white and graham bread, lemon jelly, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, corn beef hash, Saratoga potatoes, johnny cake, coffee. Dinner — Soup, baked shad, fish sauce, boiled potatoes, fried parsnips, cabbage salad, bread pudding, coffee. Supper — Stuffed eggs, white and graham bread, preserves, cake, tea. SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, poached eggs, baked potatoes, rye muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, veal cutlets, breaded, tomato sauce, mashed po- tatoes, turnips, baked cabbage, tomato salad, baked custard, coffee. Supper. — Boston baked beans, brown bread, canned fruit, choc- olate cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR MAY. SUNDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, veal cutlets lyon- naise potatoes, rolls, c ee. Dinner. — Rice soup, baked spring chicken, boiled potatoes, peas, lettuce salad, tapioca pudding, coffee. Supper. — Cold chicken, potato salad, brown bread and butter, cake, fruit, tea. 620 BILLS OF FARE MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, baked hash, fried hom- iny, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, veal and ham pie, creamed potatoes, peas, cabbage salad, charlotte russe, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Poached eggs on toast, Saratoga chips, white bread, preserves, cake, tea. TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, ham and eggs, baked potatoes, toast, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, mashed potatoes, boiled rice, lettuce with French dressing, lemon pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, Boston brown bread, stewed rhubarb, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, dried beef with cream, fried potatoes, wheat gems, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, aspara- gus, peas, tomato salad, custard pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Hash on toast, potato salad, white and graham bread, fruit, cake, tea. THURSDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, hominy, codfish balls, baked potatoes, griddle cakes, coffee. , Dinner. — Macaroni soup, braised liver, mashed potatoes, string beans, cold slaw, bread pudding, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, cream sauce, brown bread, fruit, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, fried trout, omelet, Sara- toga potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, boiled halibut, sauce tartare, mashed potatoes, dandelion greens, lettuce with French dressing, rhubarb pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Macaroni and cheese, white and graham bread, apple sauce, gingerbread, tea. SATURDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, lamb chops, baked potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Bean soup, veal pot pie, potato croquettes, asparagus, cream sauce, cabbage salad, cottage pudding, coffee. Supper. — Stuffed eggs, brown bread and butter, fruit, cake, tea BILLS OF FAEE FOR JUNE. SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- toes, wheat cakes, coffee. BILLS OF FAKE 621 Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, mashed potatoes, asparagus on toast, peas, lettuce, lemon pie, strawberries and cream, coffee. Supper. — Sardines, lettuce salad, white bread, fruit, cake, tea. MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, egg omelet, fried potatoes, graham gems, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, veal croquettes, mashed potatoes, boiled rice, spinach, apple pie, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Strawberry shortcake, hot rolls, tea. TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, stewed codfish, cream sauce, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Macaroni soup, lamb chops, mashed potatoes, stewed tomatoes, asparagus salad, rice pudding, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Clam fritters, potato salad, brown bread, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, baked potatoes, graham gems, coffee. Dinner. — Clear soup, broiled steak, mashed potatoes, baked toma- toes, cream sauce, lettuce with French dressing, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. Supper — Scrambled eggs, brown and white bread, strawberries and cream, tea. THURSDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, lamb chops, fried pota- toes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Celery soup, roast sirloin of beef, tomato sauce, mashed 13otatoes, boiled spinach, lettuce salad, cheese, strawberries and cream, coffee. Supper. — Egg omelet, tomato salad, Saratoga chips, berries, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, stewed codfish, cream sauce, baked potatoes, graham gems, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, fried mackerel, fennel sauce, boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes, asparagus, cucumber salad, cheese, choc- olate pudding, coffee. Supper. — Strawberry shortcake, muffins, cheese, tea. SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, chipped beef and cream, baked potatoes, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, veal croquettes, mashed potatoes, boiled rice, boiled spinach, potato salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. Supper. — Deviled crabs, brown bread and butter, stawberries and cream, cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR JULY. SUNDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, baked potatoes, gems, coffee. 622 BILLS OF FARE Dinner. — Clear soup, fricasseed chicken, mashed potatoes, aspara- gus, corn, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, cofPee, Supper. — Cold meat, bread and butter, strawberries and cream, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, egg omelet, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. ' Dinner. — Tomato soup, cutlets, horseradish sauce, boiled pota- toes, green peas, celery, cheese, fruit dumpling, coffee. Supper. — Potato salad, brown bread and butter, berries and cream, cake, tea. TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, fried pota- toes, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, mutton cutlets, bechamel sauce, mashed pota- toes, green corn, cauliflower, cabbage salad, eheese, cherry pie, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, Saratoga chips, soda biscuit, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cornmeal mush, cold meat, fried potatoes, wheat gems, coffee. Dinner. — Bean soup, roast veal, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes, parsnips, celery, cheese, apple dumpling, coffee. Supper. — Hash on toast, graham bread and butter, berries with cream, cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, veal cutlets, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Macaroni soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, carrots, lettuce salad, cheese, bread pudding, coffee. Supper. — Poached eggs on toast, brown bread and butter, water- melon, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, codfish balls, fried potatoes, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Celery soup, boiled mackerel, egg sauce, mashed pota- toes, corn, peas, potato salad, cheese, custard pie, coffee. Supper. — Berry shortcake, bread and butter, cheese, cake, tea. SATURDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, poached eggs on toast, Saratoga potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner — Vegetable soup, saddle of mutton, mashed potatoes, green corn, peas, lettuce, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. Supper. — Cold meat, brown bread and butter, Saratoga chips, currant tarts, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR AUGUST. SUNDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, codfish balls, potato chips, muffins, coffee. BILLS OF FARE 623 Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, turnips, asparagus, lettuce, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. Supper. — Cold meat, bread and butter, bananas and cream, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, hash on toast, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, boiled pota- toes, peas, corn, cauliflower, lettuce salad, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. Supper. — Scrambled eggs, soda biscuit, peaches and cream, cake, tea, TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, ham and eggs, Saratoga potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Celery soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, mashed potatoes, green peas, asparagus, potato salad, cheese, baked custard, coffee. Supper.-;-Blackberry shortcake, rolls, cheese, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY Breakfast— Fruit, hominy, veal cutlets, baked potatoes, cornmeal griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner — Pea soup, veal croquettes, mashed potatoes, artichokes, turnips, celery, cheese, apple pie, coffee. Supper. — Potato salad, muffins, baked apples and cream, cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, egg omelet, Lyonnaise potatoes, rolls, coffee. Dinner — Bean soup, fried chicken, cauliflower sauce, boiled pota- toes, boiled rice, peas, lettuce salad, cheese, blueberry pie, coffee. Supper. — Omelet, bread and butter, blueberries and milk, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, boiled eggs, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, fish chowder, mashed potatoes, aspara- gus, summer salad, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. Supper — Raspberry shortcake, muffins, peaches and cream, cake, tea, SATURDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, farina, mutton chops, Lyonnaise potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast beef, Hollandaise sauce, boiled potatoes, corn, carrots, celery, cheese, cherry pie, coffee. Supper. — Baked beans, brown bread and butter, fried potatoes, chepse, blanc mange, cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR SEPTEMBER. SUNDAY.- Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. 624 BILLS OF FAKE Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast turkey, currant jelly, mashed pota- toes, baked sweet potatoes, string beans, succotash, lettuce, cheese, apple pie, coffee. Supper. — C51d meat, brown bread and butter, fruit, cake, tea. MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, Saratoga potatoes, gems, cofPee. Dinner Vegetable soup, beefsteak, boiled potatoes, boiled squash, cucumbers, salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, brown bread and butter, bananas and cream, cake, tea. TUESDAY. — Breakfast.— Fruit, farina, hash on toast, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. —Tomato soup, roast veal, mashed potatoes, boiled par- snips, stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, cheese, baked apple dump- ling, coffee. Supper. — Fried oysters, cream of tartar biscuits, fruit,, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, egg omelet, fried potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, turnips, pickles, cheese, apple pie, coffee. Supper. — Corn beef hash, soda biscuit, fruit, cake, tea. THURSDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cornmeal mush, hash, baked potatoes, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Bean soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, mashed potatoes, spinach, green peas, lettuce salad, cheese, baked Indian pudding, coffee. Supper. — Poached eggs on toast, graham bread and butter, fruit, cake, tea. FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, fried mush, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled haddock, tomato sauce, mashed pota- toes, asparagus, string beans, celery, cheeg^e, squash pie, coffee. Supper — Scrambled eggs, bread and butter, marmalade, cake, tea. SATURDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, beefsteak, baked potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast sirloin of beef, horseradish sauce, boiled potatoes, succotash, cabbage salad, cheese, baked custard, cof- fee. Supper. — Cold meat, soda biscuit, preserves, cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE 625 BILLS OF FARE FOR OCTOBER. SUNDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- toes, rolls, cott'ee. Dinner — Vegetable soup, roast chicken, mashed potatoes, corn, cauliflower, cabbage salad, cheese, apple roll, coffee. Supper. — Sardines, toast, fruit, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, poached eggs on toast, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, mock duck, boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes, corn, cucumber pickles, lettuce salad, cheese, apple pie, grapes, coffee. Supper. — Potato salad, graham bread and butter, cheese, baked sweet apples, ginger snaps, tea. TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash, Indian meal grid- dle cakes, rolls, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, boiled potatoes, artichokes, stewed celery, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. Supper. — Oyster stew, crackers, bread and butter, preserves, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, farina, egg omelet, muffins, coffee. • Dinner. — Soup, veal pot pie, mashed potatoes, baked sweet pota- toes, parsnips, potato salad, cheese, bread pudding, coffee. Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, Saratoga potatoes, brown bread and butter, sliced oranges, tarts, tea. THURSDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, chipped beef and cream, baked potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cab- bage, turnips, celery, cheese, boiled apple dumpling, coffee. Supper. — Oyster stew, crackers, bread and butter, stewed fruit, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, codfish balls, cornmeal griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, baked white fish, drawn butter sauce, mashed potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, squash, carrot salad, pump- kin pie, coffee. Supper. — Lobster salad, brown bread and butter, grapes, cake, tea SATURDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, mutton chops, Sara- toga potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, roast beef, tomato sauce, boiled potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, squash, celery, cheese, custard pie, coffee. Supper — Baked beans, Boston brown bread, baked apples, cake, tea. 40 626 BILLS OF FAKE BILLS OF FARE FOR NOVEMBER. SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Celery soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, stewed tomatoes, olives, celery, lima beans, cheese, apple rolls, coffee. Supper. — Cold meat, cornmeal mush and milk, bread and butter, bananas and cream, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, codfish and cream, fried potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, mac- aroni and cheese, potato salad, cheese, baked custard, coffee. Supper. — Oyster fritters, Lyonnaise potatoes, bread and butter, canned fruit, cake, tea. TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, muffins, coffee. Dinner — Tomato soup, saddle of mutton, currant jelly, mashed potatoes, asparagus, corn, celery, cabbage salad, cheese, pumpkin pie, coffee. Supper. — Cold mutton, Saratoga potatoes, bread and butter, quince jelly, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — ^Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, poached eggs on toast, baked potatoes, gems, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, turnips, beet salad, cheese, baked Indian pudding, coffee. Supper.— Stewed oysters, bread and butter, canned fruit, cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, corn beef hash, fried potatoes, toast, coffee. Dinner — Bean soup, roast beef, mashed potatoes, baked sweet po- tatoes, tomatoes, celery, cheese, apple dumpling, coffee. Supper. — Sardine salad, Saratoga potatoes, brown bread and but- ter, fruit, cake, tea. FRIDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cornmeal mush, stewed codfish, fried potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Vegetable soup, broiled mackerel, maitre d' hotel butter, mashed potatoes, cauliflower, potato salad, cheese, pumpkin pie, coffee. Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, tomato sauce, graham bre?,d and butter, gingerbread, tea. SATURDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, hash on toast, baked potatoes, fried mush, coffee. BILLS OF FAKE 627 Diaaer. — Soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, Saratoga potatoes, car- rots, parsnips, cheese, squash pie, coffee. Supper. — Croquettes, Lyonnaise potatoes, brown bread, stewed prunes, cake, tea. BILLS OF FARE FOR DECEMBER. SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, mutton chops, fried pota- toes, hot rolls, cofPee. Dinner. — Bean soup, roast beef, mashed potatoes, corn, stewed celery, cauliflower, cheese, mince pie, coffee. Supper. — Scalloped oysters, hot biscuits, apple sauce, cake, tea. MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, boiled rice, cold beef, baked pota- toes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Asparagus soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce boiled potatoes, cauliflower, stewed tomatoes, winter salad, cheese, baked custard, coffee. Supper. — Cold mutton, potato salad, brown bread, stewed fruit gingerbread, tea. TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, Saratoga potatoes, muffins, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, veal cutlets, tomato sauce, mashed potatoes, spin- ach, celery, cheese, apple fritters, coffee. Supper. — Fried oysters, hot rolls, baked apples, cake, tea. WEDNESDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, beefsteak, baked potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, stewed tomatoes, celery, cheese, squash pie, coffee. Supper. — Poached eggs, Welsh rarebit, white bread, sliced oranges, cake, tea. THURSDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, cornmeal mush, fried tripe, baked potatoes, cornmeal griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner — Soup, broiled rump steak, brown sauce, mashed pota- toes, fried turnips, celery, boiled salad, cheese, bread pudding, coffee. Supper. — Cold meat, browai bread and butter, canned peaches, cake, tea. FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, ham and eggs, fried mush, coffee. Dinner. — Tomato soup, baked haddock, drawn butter sauce, boiled potatoes, corn, cauliflower, baked Indian pudding, cheese, coffee. Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, tomato sauce, brown bread and butter, cake, tea. 628 BILLS OF FARE SATURDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, codfish balls, baked potatoes, griddle cakes, coffee. Dinner. — Pea soup, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, pickled carrots, baked sweet potatoes, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. Supper. — Baked beans, Boston brown bread, canned fruit, cake, tea Thanksgiving Dinner. Oysters on the Half Shell. Cream of Celery Soup. Roast Turkey. Cranberry sauce. Mashed Potatoes. Baked Squash. Stewed onions. Corn, Celery Olives. - Pickles. Mince Pie. Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. Fruit. Nuts. Raisins. Coffee. Christmas Dinner. Raw Oysters. Tomato Soup. Boiled Cod, Sauce Tartare. Potato Balls. Pickles. Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. Cranberry Jelly. Mashed Potatoes, Asparagus. Winter Salad. Canvassback Duck. Currant Jelly. Potato Croquettes. Fried Hominy. Plum Pudding. Mince Pie. Lemon Pie. Cheese. Ice Cream. Cake, Fruits. Nuts. Raisins, Coffee. t> GARNISHING FOOD. T is very essential to the proper enjoyment of food that dishes and their surroundings should look nice. In the matter of garnishing, the average cook has much to learn. Of course the first requisite in modest homes is that the food should be good, well cooked, and neatly served. There never can be any excuse for untidy serving, for food set awry, grease in the wrong place, sauce spilt over the edges of the plate, or dirt. But it is a great mistake to suppose that because a dish looks very pretty it is necessarily an ex- pensive one. In garnishing and decorating dishes so much depends on taste that the most we can do is to^ give a few hints and sugges- tions to our readers. Harmony of colors must always be preserved. Most women have an instinctive appreciation of this, but those who do not should make a study of the matter^if they wish to produce pleasing effects. Dishes which are prettily garnished appeal to the eye as well as the taste, and are much more likely to be eaten with zest. To invalids the appearance is a matter of very great importance, and it is by no means unimportant to the well and strong. SOUP. — If soup contains any kind of vegetables let them be bright and contrast in color — red, green and white being the best color contrasts for soups. Try to get a few vegetables that will make a pretty contrast in the way of color — such as little squares of red carrot, white turnip, and a few green peas. Where there is a garden this is easily done. In cutting up carrots keep the bright red edges to put in soup, while the pale yellow inside will do for the stock pot. The stock will be just as good and the soup greatly improved in appearance. Peas add beans will furnish the contrasting green, but to insure their being a bright green they must be thrown into boiling water at the start, otherwise they will turn a brownish color. Bits of turnip will furnish the white pieces. Thick soups should be a rich dark brown, resembling chocolate. This can be obtained by using brown roux. If black pepper is used to flavor soup it will settle at the bottom like grit. In pouring soup into the tureen keep back the thick sediment, and utilize it in other 629 630 GAKNISHING FOOD Fig. 1. BOILED TUBBOT GAENI8HED WITH PABSIiEY. ways. A white soup is more difficult to obtain, but a very little cream will insure it. With white soups the whiter they are the better. If you have no cream more milk must be used, the stock reduced, and the milk boiled separately to get a nice white color. A green soup, like green pea soup, should be green, A tea- spoonful of spinach coloring will turn a tureenful from a dirty yel- lowish green to a bright green, and the difference in appearance is wonderful. FISH — Flat white fish are best ornamented with lobster coral, parsley, and cut lemon. A slice of cut lemon makes a pretty gar- nish for fish. A little green pars- ley can be laid on one piece, and a piece of lobster coral on another for a contrast. The accompany- ing illustration, Fig. 1, shoWs a " Boiled Turbot, Garnished with Parsley." A boiled white fish can be placed white side up; have a little dry chopped parsley ready, take a little on the point of a knife blade and knock the blade gently, so that the parsley will fall on the fish from a little height. Sprinkle on a little lobster coral in the same way, and the fish will be covered with little red and green specks. Place around it, alternately, fresh green parsley and cut lemon. If lobster coral is not at hand use one of the substitutes given towards the end of this chapter. Another combination of red and green colors can be made with pickled chillies and gherkins. Fish can also be gar- nished with fillets as shown in the accompany- ing illustration, Fig. 2, or with fried oysters, or oys- ters dipped in butter. ^ig. 2. salmon gaenished with fillets. These can be arranged as a border around the dish or 2 or 3 placed on the fish. Other good borders are fried or fresh parsley, water cress, lettuce, sorrel leaves, and in winter celery tops. Any of these can be used alone or alternating with slices of lemon. Slices of tomato make a good border. Pickled beets and carrots cut in dice or other figures, and used alternately, contrast prettily GAENISHING FOOD 631 Slices of hard-boiled eggs are also used, or the whites can be chop- ped and yolks passed through a sieve and sprinkled over the fish or built up in little pyramids of alternate colors. Button mushrooms are useful for ornamenting fish. salmon. Endless combinations ^ T^ ' " , . Fig. 3. middle out of salmon qaenish- can be made by any one having a ed with pabsley, ckay=fish and little ingenuity and taste. POTATO BALLS. OYSTER — Raw oysters are garnished, as nearly every one knows, with slices of lemon, and scalloped oysters are garnished with parsley or curled lettuce. LOBSTER. — Boiled lobster can be garnished with slices of hard= boiled egg, the white and yellow contrasting nicely with its red. Surround it with lettuce or other green leaves. JOINTS. — In sending joints to the table endeavor to make them look attractive. A boiled leg of mutton can be ornamented with young turnips and carrots arranged around it alternately. Another device is to cut turnips in half, scoop out the inside so as to form a cup, and fill the cups with chopped red carrot and boiled green peas, and place them alternately around the meat. The balance of the turnip and carrot can be boiled, mashed, and served up in the same dish in red and white strips. Brussels sprouts also ornament such a dish nicely, and boiled rice is often used. ROAST BEEF OR RUMP STEAK.— This can always be orna- mented with little bunches of scraped horseradish, and a litle piece of parsley set in the center of each white bunch is an improvement. Pickled beets and carrots, sliced and arranged alternately, are often used, and so are slices of lemon, celery tops or parsley, jellies of var- ious colors tastefully arranged, and Lyonnaise, Saratoga, and other preparations of potato. Trufiles, tomatoes, cabbage, quenelles, asparagus, rice croquettes, etc., are also used. A fillet of beef can be garnished with stuffed tomatoes or onions, peas, Brussels sprouts, fried sweet potatoes, or mushrooms. ROAST VEAL — This should have a rich mahogany color out- side. It can be garnished like roast beef with slices of lemon, celery tops or parsley, pickled carrots or beets, various colored jellies, etc. 632 GARNISHING FOOD The appearance of cold veal is often improved greatly by glazing; then surround it with parsley. ROAST LAMB. — This, either cold or hot, is often served with mint or mint sauce, and a little parsley improves the appearance. BEEFSTEAK. — This with 1 or 2 slices of lemon laid upon it is very nice, while parsley, onions, mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, Lyonnaise or Saratoga potatoes, are all appropriate and often used. The flavor of lemon juice is by many people thought a great improvement to beefsteak. CUTLETS. — These look best when of uniform size and a nice brown color. They can be garnished with mashed potato, button mushrooms, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, parsley, etc. Chops can be garnished with the same things, or either can be arranged around a mound or placed on a border of mashed pota- toes. TONGUE.— This can be served with artichokes, boiled rice, macaroni, stewed carrots, turnips, mashed potatoes, or with a puree of cauliflower, tomato, turnip, or spinach. Our illustration. Fig. 4, shows a tongue garnished with parsley and aspic jelly which produces a pleasing effect. GAME — The larger varieties, like wild ducks, etc., are garnished with cranberry, or apple sauce, parsley or cresses, and slices of lemon or orange. The smaller varieties are usually garnished with currant jelly, parsley, slices of lemon, fried or roasted bread, barberries, etc. Jellies of various colors are also suitable for game. ROAST TURKEY, DUCKS, GEESE, AND FOWLS These can be garnished with parsley, celery, and other green leaves, slices of lemon, links of fried sausage, fried oysters, forcemeat balls, horseradish, currant or cranberry jelly, etc. COLD FOWL — These are much improved by being glazed and then garnished with parsley. Aspic jelly is also admirably adapted for these meats. Fig. 4. tongue gabnished with paks- ley and aspio jelly. Fig 5. — koast tuekey, garnished WITH PAESLEY and LINKS OF sausage. GARNISHING FOOD 638 COLD MEATS. — These can have the edge of the platter deco- rated with parsley, celery, cresses or lettuce, and jellies of various colors, while slices of lemon, pickled carrots and beets, anchovies, cucumbers etc., are all appropriate placed on or about them. SALADS — These can be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, the yolks and whites contrasting nicely. Some of the chopped whites can be changed to a fine red by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal. Beet=root also makes a good red. Parsley and lobster coral are used at times, and so are olives arranged around the edge of the dish. Slices of lemon and capers are also suitable for salads. HASH AND SMALL ENTRfeES — These are served better from a small, deep dish than from a large flat one. Hash not only looks better but keeps hot longer served in this way. ADDITIONAL HINTS — A few further hints may be given about some of the articles used in garnishing foods. Anchovies. — These go well with cold meats, and they make a good relish served on toast. Aspic Jelly. — This can be cut into various fancy shapes and used to garnish fish, cold meats, salads, etc. It can be used to form a border in connection with beets, carrots, hard=boiled eggs, etc., and many pretty effects can thus be produced. Fried Bread. — This can be prepared by frying stale bread, which is free from crust, in lard or clarified butter. It can be cut into small squares for soups, or into triangles or circles for fish or meat. Or stale bread can be toasted very brown and cut up and used the same way. Bread Crumbs can be dried in the oven, slightly fried in a little butter, carefully drained, and piled in little heaps around game, etc. A Substitute for Lobster Coral. — The genuine coral not being always at hand, a substitute can be made by rubbing a piece of stale bread through a fine sieve, and shaking the crumbs on a plate with a few drops of cochineal which will turn them a bright red. They will an- swer as well as the lobster coral for many garnishes, and can be used the same way. A red chilli can be cut up and it will furnish little red specks for garnishing. Glaze — This is first class soup stock boiled down until it becomes sticky. It is applied to cooked meats to give then a smooth, glossy surface. Any clear souia stock can be boiled down for this purpose. It is applied with a brush or a little piece of cloth. If prepared and 634 GAKNISHING FOOD kept on hand, it should be melted for use by putting a little in a small dish set in a pan of boiling water. Glaze should not be too dark colored. Keep it in a well covered jar. Lemon. — This is one of the best and most common garnishes. A nice way to use it is to cut slices of lemon as shown in the accompa- nying illustration at aj then cut in half as shown at h; then cut through the middle of tliG yellow rind nearly to the center, spread the piece open and it will be held together by the center as shown at c. Parsley. — This is one of the most common garnishes, being suitable for fish, oysters, meat, cold or hot, salads, etc. Fried Parsley is fried crisp by dipping it into butter nearly at the boil; if too hot the parsley will lose its color, and if not hot enough it will become sodden and limp. It is used to accompany rissoles, croquettes, etc. Fig. 6. slice of lemon. CARVING. ARVINGr is an art— it is to be regretted that it is an art so little understood, for there are far too many poor and indif- ferent carvers in the world. Every man and woman must at times be called on to carve, and they should certainly know how to do so properly. A joint of meat will go very much farther, and the guests will be much better served when handled by a skilful, than by a poor and awkward carver. It is not difficult to learn to carve well, and it ought to be a part of the education of every boy and girl. Certainly it is an accom- plishment they may be proud to possess, and it will often save them from embarassment. Any one who will begin at the beginning and give the matter a little thoughtful study can master the art, and it will be of far more advantage in life than many other accomplish- ments to which much more time and thought are given. Before coming to the table the knife should be well sharpened and put in good condition. It will be very annoying to wait to sharpen the knife, and without having it sharp no one can carve well. Keep the carving knife for that purpose alone, and never use it to cut bread or other articles. During all pauses in carving, the knife and fork should be placed on the knife rests, and not thrust and left under the meat. It would be much better if instead of sending all the gravy to the table at first, a portion was reserved to be sent in hot for the "sec- ond help." To have the meat swimming in a platter full of gravy is not at all desirable. Many platters are now made w'ith a well to receive and hold the gravy. When such a dish is not used, a crust of bread can be slipped under the platter to tip it a little and cause the gravy to run to one side, but to tilt up the plate with one hand, while the gravy is ladled out with the other, is considered inelegant. The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should be near the carver, so that he may have full control of it. If placed far away, ungracefulness in appearance and difficulty in performing the task are inevitable. Any display of exertion reflects either on the skill of the carver or the quality of the meat. Work deliberately and carefully, and try. to divide the material so that all may be served equally well, and when serving the meat lay the best side up. 635 636 CARVING The directions which we give, and the illustrations accompany- ing them, will make the best methods of carving clear. Always do the best you can while carving, but as practice alone makes perfect, no opportunity to practice should be lost, for thus alone can the facility so essential to ease be acquired. TONGUE — This can be carved in either of 2 ways. One is to cut f of the way down, as shown by the line A B, and then cut thin, even slices A from each side, but this method is waste- ful. A more economical way is to cut clear through the tongue, and then cut slices from each half. A little fat should be cut from the root of the tongue and placed with each slice. Although it is not generally carved in that way, it will be an improvement if the tip of the tongue is cut lengthwise, in thin, even slices, SIRLOIN OF BEEF — A sirloin of beef may be divided into 2 parts— the underwent or fillet, and the top or rump. As the under- cut is best served hot, and as it is often sufficient to dine a small family, it is frequently carved first. Besides this it is thought that the top presents a better appearance when sent cold to the table; some families, how- ever, prefer to reserve the un- derwent for a cold dinner next day — it is purely a matter of taste. If the under side is cut first, the best way is to remove the fat, E, which, if not eaten at the table, chops up well to make pud- dings. A portion of the fat should go with the lean to each guest. Then the meat can be cut in good even slices as shown by the dotted lines H. For the upper portion, first thrust in the knife and run it along the upper side of the bone from B to d, separating the meat. Then with a firm, even stroke, cut as shown by the dotted line A to C, cutting down clear to the bone. Each slice should be thin and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Some persons cut across from i to J, but this is a wasteful plan, and not to be recommended. As the well-done portion comes on the outside, and the rare in the center, a number of SIBLOIN OF BEEF. OAKVING 637 BBISKET OF BEEF. slices should be cut off, and the guest offered his choice between rare and well-done. RIBS OF BEEF. — These are best cut in the manner described for the upper part of the sirloin. First thrust in the knife and sepa- rate the meat from the bone, and then cut from end to end (not across), cutting the meat in thin, even slices. BRISKET OF BEEF.— A brisket is very easy to carve — cut across as shown by the en- graving from A to B. Out mod- erately thick slices, and evenly, with a firm hand, down to the bone, so that it will not have a rough and jagged look when re- moved. The carving knife used for joints of this character should not be too thin. ROUND OF BEEF In carving a round of beef, or ribs rolled, a long, thin, and very sharp knife should be used. A slice is cut off of the top leaving the surface flat, and then very thin, even sli- ces should be cut across as shown in the direction A to b. A morsel of the fat should be served with each slice of the lean. BREAST OF VEAL. — First separate a breast of veal into 2 parts (it rightly consists of 2, the rib bones and the gristly brisTiet) by passing the knife along sharply in the direction of from A to B. Then carve the rib bones as shown by E to F, while the gristle is carved by cutting as shown by the lines c to d. In a breast of veal, stewed, these are particularly tender and inviting, and should be offered to those who prefer it. A slice of the sweetbread, if it is served with the dish, should be given to each guest. BOUND OF BEEF. D D D~ BKEAST OF TEAL. 638 CARVING NECK OP VEAL. NECK OF VEAL.— If this is jointed by the butcher and a chop given to each one it serves them with a gigantic piece much of which will be wasted. The best way to carve it is to cut diagonally as shown by the dotted lines b to o, and help in slices of moderate thickness; you can then cut from o to D in order to separate the small bones., and divide and serve them, first inquiring, however, if they are de- sired. LOIN OF VEAL.— This should be carved by cutting along the line in- dicated by A to B. If the butcher does his work well there is little difficulty, but if not it is hardly possible to carve it decently. When the loin is large, one chop will make two small helps; in this case the underwent, which is the tenderest part, should be put with the end, and the bone and upper left together. The kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, are considered great delicacies, and a piece should be given to each guest. The most economical way of serving loin of veal is to bone and roll it, when it can be cut in thin slices like a fillet. KNUCKLE OF VEAL.— Carve a knuckle of veal by simply cutting off slices as indicated by the line a to b. Cut clear to the bone, and oc- casionally cut along the bone and horizontally around it to clear the center. The best sli- ces are those from the thick- est part — that is near the end. SHOULDER OF VEAL. — This is sent to the table with the upper part placed uppermost. Serve it like a shoulder of mutton, beginning at the knuckle end LOIN OF VEAL. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. CAKVING 639 '— c CALF 8 HEAD. FILLET OF VEAL. — This meat has a tendency to break and crumble, and should, therefore, be cut with a thin and very sharp knife, in the manner explained tor a round of beef. The top, if it is well roasted, is a nice brown, and should be cut into small pieces, and a little served to each one, unless it is given as a courtesy to some favored guest. Place a little stuffing on each plate. CALF'S HEAD. — Commence by making long slices from end to end of the cheek, cutting quite through to the bone, as shown by the dotted lines a to b. Serve with each slice a cut of what is called the throat sweetbread, which lies at the fleshy part of the neck end. Out small slices also from o to d and serve small pieces with the meat; they are gelatinous and delicious. The tongue is served on a separate plate, surrounded by the brains, and is cut across in rather thin slices. Offer some to each guest. To remove the eye insert the knife at f, push it down to the center, and turn around as shown by the dotted line. This will bring it out cone-shaped and entire. Some consider it a titbit. Then turn the plate and remove the jaw, begijining to cut at g. The palate is considered a dainty, and a little should be ojffered each one. HAUNCH OF MUTTON.— Have the dish placed so that the loin is nearest and the knuckle farthest from you. Then make an inci- sion from A to B with the point of the knife, holding it rather up- right. Then cut from A to c with a slanting cut, not more than ^ of an inch deep at A B, though it may go to the bone in the middle. Let §, each succeeding cut, shown by the dotted lines to c, be sloping, and the gravy will gather in the center, called the "well.'" Serve a spoonful of this gravy with each slice of meat. Be careful and not let the gravy run out into the dish. The fat will be found at c, and a little should be served with the meat. SADDLE OF MUTTON— The tail end is divided in the illustra- tion, and the kidneys skewered under each division; this is not al- HAUNOH OF MUTTON. 640 CARVING SADDIiE OF MXTTTON. ways done, as it is a matter of taste. Carve a saddle of mutton by cutting thin, even slices a- long each side of the center bone, in the direction A to b; help fat from c to d. You may help from the vertabrse on both sides the loin, and then carve crosswise, as mark ed in the engraving, which gives you both fat and lean. Help a slice of kidney to those who desire. It is best to have relays of very hot gravy served separately, as saddle of mut- ton very soon gets cold. The dish in which it is served, as well as the plates, should be very hot. NECK OF MUTTON— This is usually boiled, and then carved by cutting it into chops, as shown in the dotted line, and into pieces, by bringing the knife between the bones, at what is known as the scrag end. When the best end of the neck is roasted (this forms an admirable joint for 2 or 3 persons) it should be carved like a saddle of mutton, and the neck should not be jointed by the butcher (see remarks about that on carving the loin). When carved thus, nothing is wasted; the bones left on the platter will do for the stock-pot, while the scrapings, etc. will make a dish of mince. NEOK OF MUTTON. LEG OF MUTTON — The knife should be carried down sharply in the direction of the line a to b, and slices taken from either side, as the guests may desire, some liking the knuckle end because well done, and others preferring the rar- er parts. The fat should be sought near the line c to D. Some connoisseurs are fond of having this joint dished with the un- j . 1 , LEG OF MUTTON. aer side uppermost, so as to get at the finely grained meat lying underneath, known as the i CARVING 641 SHOULDER OF MUTTON. Pope's eye but that is an extravagant fashion of carving. When carved outside the room a leg of mutton can be cut in slices parallel with the bone, when it has the appearance of, and is practically, a haunch. SHOULDER OF MUTTON — Commence carving from a to b taking out moderately thick slices in the shape of a wedge; some nice pieces may then be helped from the blade bone, from c to d, cutting on both sides of the bone. Cut the fat from E to r, cut- ting it in thin slices. Now turn the joint and carve the under side of the shoulder, as some of the choicer parts lie there. Cut horizontally along the whole length, as from c to D. Some tender slices are met at e to f, but they are cut as indicated. In carving this joint the tastes of those at the table should be consulted, as it has many titbits. It should be served hot, as it is very insipid when cold FORE=QUARTER OF LAMB — Place your knife near the knuckle, and cut along a, b, c, d, e. Pass your knife under, lift with the fork, and the shoulder will come away. Do not cut away too much meat from the breast, as that will spoil y"^^ c the appearance. The juice of half a lemon is then squeezed under the shoul- der, salt and pepper sprink- led on, and a small piece of butter added, and the parts reunited until the butter is melted, when the shoul- der is removed to another plate. Then separate the ribs from the brisket by cutting from P to E. Carve the ribs in the direction of i to K, and the brisket from G to H. Ask guests which part they pre- fer, ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder, and serve accordingly. OTHER JOINTS OF LAMB — These are carved exactly like the corresponding joints of mutton, and our readers can refer to the di- rections given for those. M FOBE=QUAKTEK OF LAMB. 642 CARVING LOIN OF MUTTOiS. LOIN OF MUTTON — The most economical way of carving a loin of mutton is to carve it like a saddle, by taking slices along the line A B. The end can be cut ofp before roasting, and will make a good stew. When carved in this way, how- ever, tell the butcher not to joint the meat, as each chop makes a gash that lets out the gravy. When the loin is jointed it is too oft- en served up in irregular chops, which are only half picked, and as much of the meat is wasted as is eaten. When it is jointed it is cut as indicated by the line c to d. LEG OF PORK.— Carve this like a leg of mutton, by cutting sharply down to the bone in the direction of a to B. Serve a piece of crackling with each slice. When the leg is stuffed ask if stuffing is liked, as many persons object to the flavor of onions. The best way to serve sage and onion stuffing, is separately in a sauce tureen. Also serve apple sauce, and some very hot gravy with it. LOIN OF PORK This should be properly jointed before cooking, and the crackling should be scored. Then carve from A to B, dividing it into neat and even chops. Stuf- fing is best served sepa- rately, as well as good hot gravy in tureens. Give a piece of crackling with each help. HAM. — The carver must judge whether he wishes to be guided by economy, or to get the prime slices at once. On the former plan he will begin at the knuckle end c to d, and work gradually back LEG OF POKK. liOIN OF POBK. CARVING 643 into the ham, cutting off thin even slices, and leaving the knuckle bone bare. On the other plan he will begin by cut- ting at A to B, and carve thin, wedge shaped slices, going clear to the bone, and working on the side away from the knuckle. The knife should be very sharp and thin, and the ex- ham. perienced carver prefers one which has been worn down narrow as well as thin. A third plan is to cut a circular hole at the top e, and slice pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the circle, but the other plans are generally considered preferable. Send ham to the table with the knuckle or- namented with a paper frill, as shown in our illustration, if con- venient. SUCKING PIG. — This is usually sent to the table as snown in our illustration. First cut off the shoulder by bringing the knife round as shown by the dotted line a, b, c. Then cut off the hind leg by cutting as shown by the dotted line a, b, c. The ribs can now be easily cut down in the direction d to E. The other half is, of course, carved in the same way. The pig is some- times sent to the table whole In that case first cut off the head. Then cut directly down the center of the back from neck to tail, dividing the pig in two. Then proceed as above. A sucking pig is considered delicious eat- ing, but different parts are variously esteemed, and the carver should consult the preferences of his guests. Give a portion of the crack- ling to each one. HAUNCH OF VENISON — The manner of carving this is identi- cal with that of a haunch of mutton. See the explanation given for that. NECK OF VENISON — A neck if it is kept just long enough, but not too long, is equal to a haunch. The neck, however, should K0A8T PIG. 644 CARVING BOILED KABBIT. never be jointed, as that ruins it. In carving, cut parallel with the spine, as explained for a loin of mutton (which see). Slices of fat will be found lower down, and a little can be served each guest. BOILED RABBIT— Draw the knife on each side of the back bone the whole length of the rab- bit, as shown by the line A to B, thus dividing it in- to 3 parts. Now divide the back into 2 parts, cut- ting in the direction of the line C to D. Then take off the leg by cutting along the line E to f; the joint will readily disclose itself. Cut the shoulder as shown at G to H. The tenderest part is on the loins. There are other plans of carving a rabbit, but we think this the best. With a very large rab- bit, slices may jfirst be cut out of the back, parallel with the backbone; then take off the legs, and then divide the back as at c to d. ROAST RABBIT. — The trussing of a roast rabbit is rather differ- ent from one which is boiled, but the carving is quite similar. Cut as many slices of moderate thickness from a to b as it will give, and then dis- engage the legs and shoul- ders as with boiled rabbit. The loins are the tenderest part. ROAST TURKEY.— The chief effort should be to obtain as many slices as possible from the breast; it is re- markable how many more a good carver will obtain than a poor one. A skilful carver knows the lo- cation of the joints, and easily manages the dissection. Com- mence by carving sli- ces from both sides of the breast in the direction of the lines B to C, beginning close to the KOAST KABBIT. KOAST TUKKEY. CARVING 645 wing and working upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone. Then separate the legs by passing the knife along a to h, and on turning the leg out a little with the fork the joint will dis- close itself; then divide the thigh from the drumstick. Separate the pinion carefully and neatly from the body. The stuffing can be ob- tained by making an opening at B. BOILED TURKEY.— This is trussed in a little diflPerent manner from a roast turkey, but it is carved in the same way ROAST FOWL. — Have the fowl lie upon its back, with the tail to the left. Insert the fork into the breast firmly, a little to the left of the center, with a prong on either side of the ridge of the breastbone. Insert the knife between the leg and the side and press back the leg with the blade of the knife; the thighbone will leave the socket, and only a little assistance of the knife is needed to free the leg. Remove ^___j£_^^ the wing by cutting from b to d; press .;^<^C-— •— ^ \ out the knife and the joint will come apart; ^^/^^T^-'o'^^gl then sejoarate it from the body. Remove ^^^^a^^^"^!^^^^^ the merrythought and neck bones by in- - ^^^^SlSSiyM^^^^ serting the knife and forcing it under the boast fowlT ■ bones as at c to d; raise it and it will readily separate from the breast. Divide the breast from the body by cutting through the small ribs down to the vent, turn the back uppermost, put the knife into about the center between the neck and rump, raise the lower part firmly yet gently, and it will easily sep- arate; then turn the neck or rump from you and take ofp the side bones In separating the thigh from the drumstick the knife must be inserted exactly at the joint or much difficulty will be experienced. In very young fowls the breast is served whole; the wings and breast are preferred. A very large fowl is often carved like a turkey, which see. • BOILED FOWL. — This is carved the same as roast fowl. The knife should be very sharp, and it should be carved with a sort of drawing cut, instead of using much downward pressure, as the boiled white flesh is apt to crumble. CAPONS. — These when very fine and roasted, should have sli- ces carved from the breast, like a turkey. See our di""ections for carv- ing a turkey. ROAST GOOSE. — In carving a goose the first effort should be to 646 CARVING EOA8T GOOSE. cut as many slices as possible from the breast, and to do this the meat attached to the wings must be sacrificed. Turn the neck end of the goose towards you, and cut the whole breast in long slices from one wing to the oth- er ; see the dotted lines b to c. To separate the legs, turn the goose on its side, and cut with the knife as near to the carcass as possible until stopped by the bone; then raise the leg with the fork and it can be easily separated from the body. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion and press it close to the body, then put the knife in above and divide the joint. Make an incision at a, a, a, and offer a little of the stuffing to each one. ROAST DUCK — In carving a duck a good deal depends on its size and fatness. A large duck with plenty of fat on the breast is carved like a goose (which see), first cutting slices off the breast, and then removing the legs and wings. Then remove the neckbone, or merrythought, as it is sometimes called, and then the whole breast- bone is separated from the rest by cutting through the sides. The backbone easily divides in two by being pressed downwards. A lit- tle stuffing is served with each portion. A small or young duck is carved the same as directed for a fowl. PARTRIDGE — The usual way is to place the bird on its back and carry the knife sharply along the breastbone and cut clear through, thus dividing the bird into 2 equal portions. Another way is to cut it into 3 pieces by severing a small wing and leg from the body by following the line A to B, thus mak- ing 2 helpings, when the breast will remain for a third. PAETEIDGE. PIGEONS — These are usually cut in half, like the partridge, by cut- ting through the breast and back, and a half is sent to each person. SNIPE. — One of these is usually sent whole to a gentleman, but for a lady it is generally divided in halves, as explained for a partridge. Woodcock, Quails, and other Small Birds, are served like snipe, or halved and served on toast, CARVING 647 WILD DUCKS.— The breast of these is considered the choice portion, and is divided in slices. If necessary the leg and wing can be taken ofP as described for roast fowl. SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS— Serve 1 to each person without dividing it. POACHED EGGS, QUAILS, AND OTHER MEATS ON TOAST. — Use a broad knife, lift the toast carefully, and without displacing the egg or bird transfer it to the guest's plate FISH — More care than knowledge is required in carving fish, as the principal thing is to avoid breaking the flakes. Still the car- ver should be acquainted with the choicest parts and should aim to give each guest an equal share of the titbits. Steel knives and forks should not be used in helping fish as they are liable to impart a very disagreeable flavor to it. Silver plated ones can easily be obtained when the solid silver is considered too expensive, and should be used. COD. — Whether a codfish is sent to the table whole, or only a part is served, like the head and shoulders, it is best to make 1 cut from the head towards the tail (or vice versa) down to the bone, A, B, and then cut slices across from this line to ^ the side c c, d d. When ^^T^'^^^^^^l^^ggjs,^^ codfish breaks into flakes, ^-^^^^^ k F"! "fi ^^^^^''^^imw--^^ which it is very apt to do, ^^ LL^=.»-«— *****''*" ''^^s^ they should be lifted with ^ o the fish knife, and one or ^^^' more, according to their size, served to each person. Also serve a piece of the sound, (which is found lining the back, and may be obtained by passing the knife under the backbone) with each help. Give also a piece of the liver, which should be divided into pieces enough to go around. The gelatinous parts about the head and neck are considered a delicacy. HADDOCK, BASS, BLUEFISH, SMALL SALMON, ETC These are carved much the same as cod. THE TURBOT. — This is carved much like cod, first running the knife lengthwise of the fish, quite to the bone, and then cutting slices to the sides as directed above for cod. WHITEFISH, MACKEREL, ETC.— Divide the meat from the bones by cutting down the back lengthwise. Remove the head, 648 CAKVING tail and backbone, and divide the fish into suitable portions for the guests. The upper part is the best. Brook Trout and All Small Fish are served whole. TURBANS AND FILLETS OF FISH— These, and all small slices of fish, are served without being divided. MEAT PIES — In carving and serving meat pies begin by cut- ting the cover of paste in triangular pieces from the center to the sides. Cut only 2 pieces before taking out and serving the meat. Serve a piece of the crust, and also a little gravy, with each piece of meat. PLUM PUDDING — This should be cut in slices from top to bot- tom, cutting always from the center. CHEESE — This should be cut and served in small thick pieces. THE TABLE AND ITS APPOINT= \ I /he rule in serving meals should be to make them as attract- ) I ^ ive as iDossible, and this is equally true whether one lives ^X plainly or enjoys every luxury that can be obtained. The two jprinciijal methods of serving meals are known as the French and Russian (or a la Russe) methods, the latter being the most common method for formal dinners. DINNER. This is the most substantial meal of the day, and should be served in a manner as elegant as the resources of the household will permit. When there are invited guests the number should not exceed twelve joeople, so that the conversation may be general. For this number the table should be a long one (the extension table com- monly used) and drawn out to its greatest length; there should be ample room allowed for each "cover" or place for a guest. The host may sit at one end of the table and the hostess at the other, or if more convenient they can sit opposite each other at the centre of the table. The round table, about five feet in diameter, is suited to a square dining-room, and for small parties, as it gives comfortable room for only 6 or 8 people. Great care should be taken that the covers are not crowded. The round table is better adapted to serv- ing dinner a la Russe where all the carving is done at a side table. The object of a dinner party or high tea, is not to make a display of fine table^furniture, or too elaborate cookery, but to promote agree- able social intercourse and conversation among friends. In England the dinner hour is usually at eight o'clock, but in this country seven o'clock is. more commonly set for a ceremonious supper or dinner; this gives ample time at the table and afterwards for a social evening with conversation, amusements, and music. SETTING THE DINNER TABLE.— There is more art than many people imagine in setting a table properly. The table cloth should be laid evenly, with an equal amount falling over at the two ends and sides. A thick baize or canton flannel should be put under the table cloth, because if laid on a bare table, the best table linen 619 G50 THE TABLE 651 will look thin and slazy. Nothing but the best white table cloths or napkins should be used for a dinner table. In Fig. 1 we give an illustration showing how to set a table for a company of 6 where the carving is done by the host, which is the most common American plan. The plates are distributed at each place when it is desired to carve at the sideboard, but otherwise the same general arrangement prevails. We show 2 knives and forks at each plate in this illustration. The edges of the knives should always be turned towards the plates. Sometimes 3 or more are placed in this way, but 2 is a good rule, and if more are needed they can be brought in as required. The napkin, folded square, with a piece of bread an inch thick and 3 inches long can be placed on each plate or put on instead of the plate as shown in this illustration. Instead of the individual salt cellars formerly used, salt stands are now placed at each end of the table, together with the pepper stands. At the right of each plate is arranged a goblet of water, and as many wine glasses as are needed. This illustration shows 2, but more are often used. Total abstinence families of course do not use any. The water goblet is filled just before dinner is announced. Neither glasses of any kind nor plates should ever be placed upside down. In some families water is served from the sideboard, and in others a water carafe for every 2 or 3 persons is placed on the table. At a party a small boquet would be at the place of each lady, and a button hole boquet (called a hoidonniere) at that of each gentleman. The grapes, fruit, nuts, raisins, candies, bon-bons, fancy cakes, etc., (whatever is intended for dessert) are placed in 2 or 4 fancy dishes around the centerpiece — this illustration shows 4. The butter may be made up in neat balls and placed, with suffi- cient individual butter plates to suijply the comj)any, near the hostess, who will serve it. It is not passed until after the soup dishes are removed. Some families place the butter on the sideboard, and have it served by the servant. We have omitted it from the table in this illustration. Of course more or less latitude for individual preference is al- lowed in these matters. In Fig. 2 we show another plan of setting a table as arranged by the well known firm of Marshall Field & Co., of Chicago. In this illustration it will be noticed that there is a tumbler and 5 wine glasses, and their appropriate arrangement is given. Here the dinner plates are on the table, and the knives, forks and spoons are all on the right hand side of the plate, while 652 THE TABLE 65;) the napkin is placed on the left hand side, instead of on the plate. This is a very appropriate and tasteful arrangement, and by looking at the two illustrations our readers can see two approved methods of setting the table at the present day. SERVING THE DINNER.— The first course will be oysters (when they are served) with which comes lemon or vinegar; 5 oysters for each plate are enough. If they are not served, the oyster fork shown in our illustration will of course be omitted in set- ting the table. When the oysters are eaten the plates are removed, and soup is brought on by the servant who places it, together with the soup plates, before the hostess in the manner shown in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 3. The hostess then ladles out the soup, half a ladleful being enough for each person, and the servant places it before the' guest. The ladies are served first by some hostesses, and others serve the guests in rotation. • After the soup comes fish, which is carved by the host. The accompanying illustration. Fig. 4, shows the way in which the servant would place the fish platter, plates, etc., before the host ready to be carved. The servant passes each plate as the host hands it to her, and the servant should always pass the f)lates in at the left hand side" of the guest. After the fish comes the meat or game which is carved by the host, and passed by the servant in the same way. The vegetables go with the meat, although at very formal dinners they are often made courses by themselves. The hostess serves the salad. Then the table is brushed and the dessert brought in and placed before the hostess who serves the pastry or pudding. The usual order for des- sert is pastry or pudding, ices, fruit, nuts and raisins, and bon-bons. Coffee follows the fruit. The finger bowls come before the fruit, and should be about ^ full of water slightly warmed and perfumed, and a doily is laid between the bowl and plate. The bowl and doily is lifted from the plate by the guest and placed at his left. The fingers should never be wiped on the doily, the napkin being used instead. i-'iG. 4. 654 THE TABLE 655 At the close of the meal, when the hostess sees that all have fin- ished, she looks at the lady seated at the right of the host, and the guests rise, and they retire to the drawing room in the order in which they are seated. The above described method of serving dinner is appropriate for a family of moderate means with one or two servants. In cases where more expensive establishments are maintained, with many servants, the fish and meat would be carved by the butler, and the different courses would all be served from the sideboard by the serv- ants, instead of being placed on the table as described above and served by the host and hostess. The ordinary family dinner usually spread by a majority of the people in this country consists of three courses, — viz. soup, meats and vegetables, and a dessert of puddings or pies, — more commonly of only 2 courses, the soup being omitted. When the table is sup- plied in this way, the meat or meats, with 2 or more vegetables, are placed before the one who serves it and the dessert near some mem- ber of the family who serves that. If there is a maid she removes the first set of plates, knives, and forks, with the remainder of the meat and vegetables, takes off the crumbs with a crumb=knife and pan, then places smaller plates with the dessert before the one who serves it, replenishes water glasses, brings tea or coffee if desired, and leaves the room. THE BREAKFAST TABLE. At the dinner table a white table=cloth and napkins should always be used, but at breakfast tinted napery is allowable. A plate, knife, fork, spoon, goblet, egg=cup and neatly folded napkin are set at each place at the table. Our illustration, Fig. 5, shows the manner of arranging them. The edge of the knife should always be turned towards the plate, and the goblet or egg=cup should never be upside down. The old individual salt cellars are no longer used, but salt stands are placed by the side of the pepper stands at the ends of the table. The individual butter plates will be placed beside the butter dish and the butter will be served by the hostess or some other member of the family. In many homes at present the butter is kept on the side- board and served by the servant, but on these points each family must follow its own preference. Casters are no longer used, being out of date. The pepper stands and vinegar = jug are shown in our cut. The water carafes, shown in this illustration, should be filled with fresh, cold water, just 656 THE TABLE 657 before breakfast is announced. In some families the water is placed on the sideboard. Our other illustration, Fig. 6, shows a simple and tasteful plan of arrangement as prepared for us by Marshall Field & Co., of Chicago. SERVING BREAKFAST.— For breakfast 3 courses are enough at any time. The first course will consist of oatmeal, cracked^wheat or fruit The second will consist of the substantial — meat, potatoes, etc For convenience, in Fig. 5 we show the arrangement of the dishes for the second course, with the meat placed before the host at one end of the table, and the cofPee service before the hostess at the other end. The third and last course will be the cakes or waffles. THE LUNCH OK TEA TABLE. The arrangement of the table for a lunch or supper would be very similar to that for breakfast. The illustrations and directions already given will be a sufficient guide for our readers in arranging almost any ordinary table. For a dinner table nothing but white napery is suitable, but at a luncheon tinted napery may be used if desired, although nothing is more suitable than white. At luncheon the food may all be placed on the table at the beginning, if desired, and those present may help each other. A FEW HINTS. In pretentious establishments it is not considered the proper thing to keep the table set all the time, but in modest houses, where the dining room is not used for other purposes, it is a saving of labor to keep the table continually set. After one meal is over, the dishes washed, the table cleared of crumbs and the napery changed if necessary, put everything in place except the food, and cover all with calico or mosquito netting until the next meal is served. This prevents confusion and hurry in placing meals on the table just before time for eating. Calico makes the best covering, as it protects from dust as well as flies. Where children wait on the table, or servants at a prolonged meal, they should have their dinner before their duties begin; it is cruel to make children, who need their food promptly, wait for it until after a long dinner is served to their elders. The custom of putting toothpicks on the table is very vulgar, and families of refinement do not allow it. 42 THE TABLE 659 TABLE DECORATIONS. The tasteful decoration of the table is no small item, and fortu- nately the tendency is now to decorate the tables more than former- ly. In some circles the hostesses vie with each other as to whose table shall be the most elegant, and in some cases as much is spent on the flowers as on the dinner itself, employing for this purpose professional decorators. And yet a very large class of people do not sufficiently understand the importance of appearances. It is a mistake to think that it is necessary to go to large expense in order to decorate a table prettily. Many flowers which are perfectly adapted for table decoration can be bought for a mere trifle, or grown at home, while wild flowers have been found so pretty for this purpose that they have been used by professional decorators at many grand dinners. Ladies with taste will find this a Very pleasant task, while young people should be allowed to assist in decorating the table, and have their taste for arranging flowers encouraged. The great thing is to make the table pretty and attractive, and at the same time not like every one's else, and this can be very easily managed, and with v«ry little expense, by using a little taste, fore- thought and time. Fashions change so often that it is impossible to give anything but hints for table decoration. One good rule is that the decorations should not impede the view across the table. Another is that they should all be of one color, or of two colors which harmonise well. It will be found easier to produce a good effect with one color in the flowers used, and variety in the foliage, than to blend a miscel- laneous collection of blossoms. A good decorator will aim to place the flowers so that they will look natural, and as if growing. It detracts from their beauty to crowd them together. Let them stand clearly apart, their stems showing, with the grasses or ferns with which they are intermingled veiling, but not hiding them,, nor rest- ing on the blossoms. If economy is an object, flowers can easily be had for nothing in the country, and each season of the year brings some flowers or foliage with which very pretty ornaments can be arranged. In the spring there are the primroses, cowslips and other flowers of that season; in the summer, water-lillies, grasses, etc.; in the fall the rich tinted foliage and berries, and in the winter the fresh, dark evergreen leaves. Those with taste and skill can arrange a lovely table with foliage alone, quite as pretty as a floral one. Field flowers mingled with grasses form a charming decoration, and so do buttercups if 660 TABLE DECORATIONS EOSE IN VASE. properly arranged to stand up well without any crowding, with plenty of feathery foliage. One great charm about wild flowers is that they possess so little scent. Strongly scented flowers are not advisable for table decoration as many people cannot endure the odor. The only perfumed flower that seems to find general favor is the rose, which is lovely for table decoration, and may be put into low bowls or baskets, or in single blooms in small glasses with only their own foliage. Yellows are a great favorite for dinner tables, and small dwarf sunflowers, alpine pop- pies, iris and marguerites are all favorites. Dried seaweed is a novel decoration and one that may be made quite ornamental. Some of the flner, more delicate seaweeds, if carefully dried, keep their colors wonderfully. Palms can be used and made to form very pretty cen- tres on dinner tables if the pot is hidden by moss and covered wath flowers and foliage. Trails of colored ivy also look extremely pretty on a table cloth ; they may be used as an edge to the colored strip, oi as a border where there are small vases or a basket of flowers on the table. Where time cannot be spared for much decoration, plants may be used, and ferns especially look well. A dining room can be trans- formed into a veritable spring garden with great branches of apple, cherry or peach blossoms; the deep, pink blossons of the flowering peach making a most effective decoration. The smaller sprigs can be put in rose bowls and jjlaced on the table and sideboard, the most simple arrangement being the most pleasing. For a long table 2 or 8 vases of flowers and dessert dishes of fruit can be placed along the center of the table, alternating with lamps or candelabra in the evening, but the decorations should not be so high as to obstruct the view of people across the table. The low globular vases of various sizes, called rose-bowls, are the best for this purpose. Flowers can be easily arranged in them and they are not too high. The maidenhair fern is well suited for a foundation of green; 2 or 8 fronds with short stems can be first placed in the vase, hang- ing gracefully over the sides BOWL OF ItOSES. I TABLE DECORATIONS 661 of the glasses; then only a few flowers are needed to finish them. Roses, carnations, pansies, bright berries of the mountain ash, bush cranberry, small branches of red cranberries, and holly berries are all desirable for decorative purposes. Goldenrod and other pungent flowers are best left off the table, but all delicate wild flowers and ferns are pretty. They should be carefully shaken and examined for insects before they are placed in the glasses. The boquets which we sometimes encounter at hotel tables and elsewhere, crowded with flower stems and leaves decaying in water unchanged for days are rejoellant. The flower stems should be strip- ped of all leaves in order that the water in the vases may not be dis- colored, and the water should be changed before each meal and all faded flowers discarded. An inexpensive and effective way to decorate a table is to make an imitation lake, although it is rather troublesome. For this a piece of looking glass is needed, long and narrow if possible, or take the glass from an old looking glass. The glass must be placed exactly in the center of the table on a thick piece of brown paper, or doubly thickness of newspaper, with the edge projecting an inch or so beyond the glass. The edge of the glass and the paper must be well covered with moss, and sprays of fern, pretty leaves and a few flowers are placed in the moss to hang partly over the glass. The effect is enhanced by placing four " fairy " lamps at the corners of the imaginary lake with isieces of fern arranged to bend around the light. The accompanying illustration shows such an artificial lake. AETIFIOIAL LAKE FOK A DINNER TABLE. A great variety of figures may be arranged around a mirror and endless effects produced. For example white wool torn into large soft flakes can be arranged around the edge of the glass, and raised in 662 TABLE DECORATIONS unequal heights to give the impression of a snowdrift, and the mir- ror powdered to represent ice. Sprays of ivy, grasses and colored leaves can be scattered around the drifts. Another pretty decoration is to have down the centre of the table a narrow bank of ferns, in which pink tulips are arranged as if growing. With a little taste and skill a bed of flowers may be ar- ranged in the centre of the table by laying damp ferns and moss, not on the cloth but on a piece of oiled silk. For a small dinner where the table is oval the centre looks well completely hidden with folds of Chartreuse yellow silk. Stand in the centre a large silver bowl, and at each corner place smaller bowls or cups. These would look charming filled with yellow marguerites, maidenhair fern and asparagus grass. The bowls should be filled with sand, and the flowers arranged to look as if growing. Buttercups, daisies, poppies, grasses and wild clematis are very pretty arranged in saucers of wet moss so that none of the saucer can be seen. A pretty way to arrange flowers which are not put in water is to tie a few flowers and many grasses together like sheaves of wheat, using ribbons which correspond in color with the flowers, and the sheaves may then be stood upright; but flow- ers should be selected which will stand heat and being out of water without wilting. Wreaths may al- so be made of suitable flowers, tied with ribbons and strewn about. EAKS OF WHEAT. Again 2 horse^shoes can be placed at each end of the table, and down the sides place alternately smaller ones, made of primroses and violets, in which the menus are placed. Daffodils always look pretty, and so do wild roses. Mountain ash berries, when ripe, set in richly tinted autumn foliage, make a lovely decoration. Upon very large tables tall vases and high decorations are best. Choose flowers according to the season, and the centre piece, if there is one. In summer a cool effect is needed and plenty of white and green should be found upon the table, while in winter it is pleas- FOLDING NAPKINS 663 ant to see brilliantly colored flowers that seem to give warmth as well as brightness. Glasses through which the stems of the flowers can be seen should be filled with water, but bowls or opaque stands can be filled with moss or sand, in which it is far easier to arrange flowers than in water. This is not the age of heavy dinners nor heavy decorations. The dinner tables of fashionable people are things of lightness and delicacy, and the menus to correspond. The best rules in floral dec- oration are to keep to 1 or 2 kinds of flowers, using their own foliage as much as possible; to consider color and shade, and aim to produce light ctud airy effects. Never put flowers in a vase with- out adding green of some kind, like leaves or ferns, and never put too many flowers into the same vase, as they never look pretty when crowd- ed together. In picking flowers and foliage get the stems as long; as possible as they can then be more easi- ^ ^ ^ 1 V 1 • DEOOKATIVE FLOWEB ly arranged. Do not allow any leaves to be in pot. the water; when they grow down to the bottom of the leaf^stalk strip away all the lower ones so that nothing but the stalk will enter the water. Put flowers as much as possible into vases so shaped as not to upset easily and which will at the same time make them look natural. For table decoration avoid flowers that have a peculiar or strong scent. Finally, remember that prac- tice alone makes perfect in this as in other things. If the tables are lighted by lamps they should be well shaded. It is most distressing, besides being injurious to the eyes, to have the unshaded glare .of a kerosene lamp shining into the eyes while at the table. FOLDING NAPKINS. Napkins, or as the French call them serviettes, without being as obtrusive as they are at hotels or large public entertainments should still be part of the ornaments of the table. On festive or ceremonial occasions the appearance of a dinner table is greatly improved by folding the table napkins into attractive shaped. In ordinary fam- ily use they may be neatly and tastefully folded when first put on the table, although afterwards they are generally put in napkin- rings. 664 FOLDING NAPKINS Although in America the custom of folding napkins into taste- ful designs is not so prevalent as it is in Europe, (where on the most elegant tables it is universal) it is still advisable to know how to fold some of the more appropriate patterns. Some of the shapes in use require folding of a rather elaborate and diflficult kind, but many patterns are simple and easily learned. We give illustrations and directions for folding some of the most desirable forms. To succeed in folding a napkin it is necessary that its hould be fresh and clean, and sufficiently starched to be somewhat stiff. In every case the folding must be exact, or the result will be slovenly and unsightly. After folding the napkins, a small dinner roll, or piece of bread cut thick, about 3 inches square, can be placed in each one, and, when convenient to do so, the appearance of the dinner table will be greatly improved by also putting a flower or small boquet in each napkin. Plain white napkins are the best to use unless one can have several sets with different colored ornamentation, in which case the color used should be the one predominant in the ornamentation of the table. A perfectly square napkin will admit of more elaborate folding than one which is rather longer than broad, and is, therefore, the best to use. The best size is about 28 to 30 inches square. It may be well to try to make the figures with paper at first, until the fads are learned. GBEEK OBOSS. FlQ. 1. Fig. 2, Fig. 3. THE GREEK CROSS. — Take a perfectly square nap kin and fold the 4 corners into the centre as shown in Fig. 1; again fold' the corners into the centre, and press firmly dowm, ' Turn the napkin and for the third time fold the corners Fig. 4. centre ; FOLDING NAPKINS 665 vicTOKiA BOW. Fig. 1. turn again, and fold corners to the centre again, making 4 times. Turn the napkin and it should resemble Fig. 2. Pull up each cor- ner, opening it as you do so, as shown in Fig. 3; when all 4 corners are opened turn the napkin and the cross should be formed. Fig. 4, ready to receive the bread roll in the centre. Tarts may be placed in the ends and on top, if desired, as shown in Fig. 5. THE VICTORIA BOW.— This is a neat, flatdying bow, suitable for breakfast or luncheon. Fold the nap- kin in three, lengthways, as for the collegian; then turn over the top thickness about an inch wide, and continue to fold this over and over until a band is formed in the centre of the napkin, as in Fig. 1. Turn the napkin and fold one end over about 4- or 5 inches, and then fold it over again; then fold it neatly backwards and forwards underneath, when it should be as in Fig. 2. Press all firmly together, and then bring down the centre of the upper fold, and tuck it under the band in the middle; repeat this at the other end, and the bow is formed as in Fig. 3. THE PALM LEAF. — Take a square napkin and fold the diago- nal corners together forming a triangle, and if very large repeat the vicTOBiA BOW. Fig. 2. viOTOEiA BOW. Fig. 3. THE PALM LEAF. FiG. 1. THE PALM LEAF. FiG. 2. THE PALM LEAF. FiG. 3* process. Next turn up the 2 ends so as to form 3 points, as shown in Pig. 1; then fold up the lower edge as in Fig. 2; then pleat it in regu- lar folds, about an inch deep, backwards and forwards like a fan, and 666 FOLDING NAPKINS THE LILY. Fig. 1. place it in a ring to make it stand up, as in Fig. 3, and it is complete. • THE LILY. — Take a square nap- kin and fold the two diagonal cor- ners together forming a triangle; then take the two opposite corners and make them meet on the centre one, which forms a square. Take the bottom corner, the one opposite the points, and roll it up as in Fig. 1. Turn the napkin over and rqll point a to about the centre; then take point h and tuck it in the groove; raise it and you have Fig. 2; turn the top corners down and tuck them in at c, d, and turn back the second fold at the top, forming Fig. 3— the lily. THE COLLEGIAN.— Make 2 folds lengthwise in the napkin thus folding it into 8 thicknesses something like the letter Z. Then turn over each side at the centre, as shown in Fig. 1.. Now turn the napkin over and roll up first one end, as in Fig. 2, and then the other. THE LILY. Fig. 2. THE LILY. FiG. 3. j the collegian. fig. 1. the collegian. fig. 2. the collegian. the collegian. Fig. 3. Fig. 4. Then fold them under, along the dotted line, making Fig. 3 and when completed and turned over we have the result, as shown in Fig. 4. In this and the next pattern it may sometimes be conven- ient to fold the napkin into four instead of three thicknesses. Again, the square on top can be raised nearly upright, and the roll of bread tucked under, when it forms the fold known as the shield. FOLDING NAPKINS 667 THE NEAPOLITAN.— Fold the napkin into three, as first directed for the collegian. Then lay it on the table and fold the upper thickness back on itself. Then turn the napkin over and proceed as with the colle- gian. When done it forms the neapolitan, and the bread roll can be tucked under the fold as seen in our illustration. THE MITRE.— This is a well known device which always looks effective. Fold the napkin into three thicknesses, the same as for the collegian. Then fold the two NEAPOLI- TAN. THE MITEE. FiG. 1. THE MITBE. FiG. 2. THE MITBE. FiG. 4. THE MITEE. FiG. 3. ends over to meet in the middle, as in Fig. 1; then fold down the two diagonal corners, forming Fig. 2; then double the folded napkin un- der, lengthwise, and turn up tJte points, and it will form Fig. 3. Next bend the left hand bottom corner to the right around the fin- gers, forming a circle, and tuck the corner into the inner fold; turn over the right hand corner and tuck it into a similar fold, and the result is the mitre. Fig. 4. THE ESCUTCHEON.— This is folded like the collegian as far as there shown in Fig. 2. Then the ends are rolled up wifhout turning over the napkin. The two rolls are then turned under, as in the collegian, and on raising the square on top, the escutcheon is formed as shown in our illustration of the Escutcheon, and the bread roll can be tucked in the opening in front, if desired. THE ESCUTCHEON, 668 FOLDING NAPKINS THE ARUM.— This can be folded with a napkin of any shape. Fold the napkin once lengthwise down the center; then bring the 2 oi^posite corners together to meet on the opposite side, and if the napkin is not ^square it will belike Fig. 1; then roll up the base of the triangle about | of the way, press- ing each roll to keep it in shape. Then form the napkin into a cir- cle, and tuck one end of the rolled part inside the folds opposite, forming Fig. 2. Stand on end and put the bread roll in the centre. THE DOUBLE HORN OF PLENTY.— This requires a stiff nap- kin, damp and freshly ironed, or after the .last fold a pin may be inserted at each side. Lay the napkin on the table and fold in four THE AEUM. Fig. 1. Fig. 2. HOBN or PLENTY. FiG. 1. HORN OF PI.ENTY. FlCr. 2. HORN OF PLENTY. FiG. lengthways, keeping the selvage edges all one way. Tui'n the two ends to meet in the centre as shown in Fig. 1 in the Mitre; then turn over, and turn down two cor- ners, not on the selvage edge, as d to e, and h to /; turn the napkin over and it will resemble Fig. 1. Take the end a and roll it over to 6, as in Fig. 2, and then roll c to d and complete the design as shown in Fig. 8. Pinch the horns down and hold them a minute to make them retain their shape, or pin them. This is suitable for a Thanksgiving or Christmas din- ner when the horns may be filled with flowers and tied with ribbons, or other devices used emblematic of plenty, as shown in Fig. 8. THE CORNUCOPIA.— Fold the napkin lengthways down the middle. Then turn down the corners at the two ends to meet in the middle on the opposite side and form a triangle as in Fig. 1 ; take the corners at the base and make them meet at the apex, thus forming a FOLDING NAPKINS 669 square. Fig. 2; then double it together, b to a, and it will form Fig. THE COENUOOPIA. FiG. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. Fig. 4. 3. At one side there will be three folds; set the napkin upright over the bread roll, with 2 of these folds on one side of the roll, and 1 on the other; shape it nicely, keeping the fold at the back upright edge closed. A flower at the apex has a pretty effect, and a few flowers or leaves at the base as shown in our illustration. Fig. 4. These are very effective on a long dinner table. HOUSEHOLD TOPICS. fT is a remark often repeated, but always true, that woman makes the home. The importance of the home and home life to .the well being of society is so well known, and so often dwelt upon, as to need no repetition here. The butterflies of fashion may be indifPerent to the value of a thorough knowl- edge of housekeeping, but sensible women know that all other accomplishments sink into comparative unimportance beside it, because it more deeply affects woman's real life and her relations to the family than any other. Like all other accomplishments it may be acquired by study and practice, but it can be acquired in no other way. Children should receive early instruction in domestic econ- omy, and the lessons should be made as x^leasant, and the subject as attractive as possible. It may save them from much tribulation and suffering later in life. Above all they should be taught to take a pride in their work, and a delight in doing it well. All work well done ennobles the doer, and any work slighted is a disgrace. To thoroughly understand all the details of housekeeping is to understand that which lies at the foundation of all the jDcace, comfort and well being of the family. It is knowledge and skill, not luck, which brings success. The admiration and esteem of husband and children will be more surely won, and much more surely retain- ed, by the ability to manage the domestic affairs skillfully and eco- nomically, than by any of the lighter and more showy accomplish- ments. Even when a woman expects that she will be able to employ servants to do most of the hard work, she will know that if she would superintend their labors successfully she must understand the details of their work. Servants are quick to detect ignorance and incompe-^ tence in their mistress and to take advantage of it also, while super-' ior intelligence speedily commands their respect, and checks their disposition to shirk. In housekeeping, as in everything else, system, is of the utmost importance. And yet there are large numbers of housewives who do not appreciate its value.. Not only should there be a place for every- thing, and everything put in its place, the importance of which is often insisted on, though none too often, but there should also be a time for everything. Have certain days of the week for doing certain things, and also arrange the work of the day, as far as possi- ble, allotting a time for every duty. It is astonishing how much more can be accomplished by regu- lar, systematic, well planned efforts, than by irregular and spasmodic work. Use your head in your work, and keep cool and self-pos- sessed. The following rules are offered as being suggestive mainly: (1) Plan your work carefully, and work systematically. (2) Never 670 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM 671 rely on servants, but oversee everything. (3) Avoid both extrava- gance and waste. (4) Keep an accurate account of both receipts and expenditures. (5) Pay cash, and avoid debts as you would a pestilence. (6) When in doubt consult the index of this book. It may safely be said that the housewife is called upon to dis- play an amount and variety of knowledge and skill such as is required of few men. Often, without any special education or pre- paration, she is called upon to deal with the most diverse subjects; she must mend and care for the family clothing, and often make a good deal of it; purchase and cook the food for the family; attend to the sinks, sewers and sanitary condition of the house; look after the health of the children and doctor their colds, accidents, and lighter complaints, and so on through a long list of subjects. The object of these pages is to make a book of reference, treating on the various departments of housekeeping, and, while avoiding technical and obscure terms, to place the teachings of modern science as far as possible within the reach of its readers, on those household subjects in which science plays a part. The subjects treated cover a wide range, but we have classified and arranged our infor- mation as well as possible. Modern homes are supplied with so great a variety of articles of use and ornament that their care is no small item, and we have endeavored to give the best information attainable on these matters. We often give several ways of doing the same thing. We have various reasons for this. One is the desire to inform our readers about the matter, and another is that it is at some times more convenient to use one method than another; also in special cases one plan will work where another does not. In any event there is little danger of having too much information on any subject Some of our readers may not be familiar with some of the materials whose use we refer to, but most of them can easily be obtained at any drug store. THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM. THE KITCHEN. fPON the kitchen and its management the comfort of the whole house largely depends. It ought to be large, and fitted uj) neatly and pleasantly, and it should have an abundance of light and a cheerful aspect. All its sanitary arrangements should be most carefully examined and attended to, since negligence here will atfect the whole household. See also that it is well ventilated. The essentials in the kitchen are to have an abun- dance of light, good ventilation, a cheerful aspect, and convenience of arrangement so as to save all the -labor possible. The ivalls should be either whitewashed or painted — never papered. Whitewash is clean and sweet, and it can be renewed at any time. 672 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM If whitewash is used, at least twice a year a fresh coat should be laid on. The whitewash can be tinted if desired. If the walls are painted, a light shade is to be preferred. A good way is to cover the walls with a size made of a solution of -I lb. of glue to the gal- lon of water, and then apply a good oil paint. Painted walls should be washed at least twice a year. The best finish for the wood- work is to oil and varnish it, or simply oil it. It can then be easily and quickly wiped otf when soiled. If painted, it will require a good deal of washing with soap to keep it in condition, and then the paint will wear off in spots. The Floor. — Have the floor smoothly and evenly l?id, and with hard wood, if possible. Carefully selected hard pine answers very well, but maple or birch are better, birch being best, as it does not stain so easily as ma^Dle; do not use sjoruce or any soft wood. Then if the floor is oiled 2 or 3 times a year with boiled linseed oil it will make the cleanest and least troublesome finish. If not oiled, apply a black walnut stain, or any other which you prefer. We explain how to stain floors elsewhere, and any woman can stain her own floor White floors are too suggestive of aching " backs and tired arms. Carpets are not suitable for a kitchen. Oil cloth is better than carpet but it is too cold, and is not equal to the wood floor. Tiles, which are sometimes recom- mended, tire the feet. Furnishmg the Kitchen. — It is very desirable that a kitchen should be furnished with all the articles which will aid in perform- ing the necessary work, but many housekeepers do not possess the means to buy all they want. There is no disgrace in not being able to buy certain articles, but there is great disgrace in not keeping , those clean which are owmed. The best way to do this is never to allow an article to be put away dirty. If this rule is followed uni- formly there will be little fear that any article will not be clean any time it is wanted. HAED MAPLE. The furniture of the kitchen 1 good cooking stove or range. 1 wash-boiler. 1 wash-board. 3 flat=irons. 1 polishing iron, 1 large iron dinner=pot. 1 tall, narrow, iron soup-kettle. 2 smaller vegetable kettles. 1 shallow iron doughnut kettle. 1 double boiler. 1 large tea=kettle. 3 sizes of frying pans. 1 dripping=pan for roasting meat. 1 porcelain kettle for preserving and canning. and pantry should include — 1 cooking4able. 1 ironing table. 1 low rocking chair. 3 chairs. 1 wash=bencli. 3 sizes of composition wash=tubs. 2 composition water-pails. 1 coffee-mill. 1 spice =mill. 1 mortar and pestle. 1 pair scales. 1 bread^^knife and board. 1 meat knife and board. 1 veo'etable knife. THE KITCHEN, PANTKY AND STOREKOOM 673 4 brick-shaped bread=paiis. ^ doz tinned spoons (assorted 1 round cake^pan, with center sizes). stem. 1 chopping=tray, for fruit. 8 jelly=cake pans. 1 rolling-pin and moldingsboard. 1 gem pan. 1 bread=box, of tin. 2 long, square, baking=tins. 1 cake=box, of tin 1 gridiron. 2 colanders, 1 coarse and 1 fine. 1 wire bread4oaster. 1 gravy^strainer. 4 small sauce=pans of different 1 granite=ware coffee=pot. sizes. 1 earthen teapot. 1 can=cutter. 1 tin chocolate=pot. 1 chopping^knife and tray (for 1 apple corer. meats). 2 large cooking=bowls. 1 chopping'tray, for onions. 1 first=class cook book. At the sink there should be — 1 tin water dipper. 1 water^pail. 1 wash=basin. 1 large dish=^pan. 1 soap-dish. 1 large draining=pan. 1 soap shaker. 1 large rinsing^pan. Have roller towels and plenty of dish towels, and a slop-pail near at hand. For the china closet side=board there should be: A dinner set of crockery which includes the breakfast and tea-set, goblets, tum- blers, teaspoons, tablespoons, a butterknife, a carving knife and fork, soup ladle, pepper=boxes, salt-cellars or shakers, vinegar=bottle, mustard-pot, glass dishes fo'r pickles and celery, table-cloths and napkins, crumb=brush and pan. A smooth pot or kettle is excellent for all general purposes, as it wears indefinitely, and is better the longer it is used. If by acci- dent it boils dry, take it from the fire, and set it where it will cool gradually; if cold water is dashed in, it will cool suddenly, and crack. Care should also be taken that iron kettles and pots should not stand with liquids in them, in cold weather, where they will freeze solid, as that bursts them. Brass and copper vessels should never be used for cookery, as the danger of poison is too great, especially if used by inexperi- enced or ignorant persons. The mild acids found in foods (like acetic, malic, etc.,) readily attack these metals and produce poison- ous compounds. Tfie enameled or porcelain kettle is invaluable for canning and stewing fruit, and for making preserves, jellies and pickles, and one should always be kept for this purpose alone, but if used as an every=day kettle for meats and vegetables the enamel very soon wears or scales off, and then it becomes a rough and easily rusted kettle, to which everything cooked therein is apt to stick and burn. A double holler should, if possible, be owned by every family. It has many uses, and no kitchen is complete without one. Aluminum is undoubtedly the best metal with which to me^ke 43 674 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM cooking utensils. It is light, durable, easily cleaned, does not rust or corrode, and is not affected by any of the "mild acids found in foods. Although it conducts heat readily, food cooked in it does not burn, and the use of aluminum vessels largely does away with the need of double boilers and porcelain kettles. The cooking uten- sils of the future will be largely made of it we believe. The above list of cooking utensils and tableware might be lengthened indefinitely if we included all the modern implements for the kitchen and pantry which are seen in the variety stores, supplemented with the luxurious and expensive dining=room ware deemed necessary by people of wealth, but very fair cooking for a small family can be accomplished with the above utensils, and a nice looking table furnished with the articles on this list. Skilled me- chanics, however, know that to do good work they must have good tools and these must be kept in good condition; so, also, the woman who attempts to do her work well, should try and secure the best utensils and the most conveniences she can, and should aim to obtain improved and labor=saving devices as they appear from time to time. A trifling outlay for a new article will often save a great deal of work. A Salamander is a round iron plate with a long handle attached. The method of using it is to heat it red hot, and then to pass it over dishes, the surface of which it is desired to brown, but which cannot be placed in the oven; care is needed not to hold it too close, or salamandee. the surface will be scorched. A comnaoii iron fire-shovel makes a very good substitute for a salamander. Have a good dresser if possible in which to keep all pots, ket- tles, kitchen tableware, etc. The doors of the upper part of the dresser should slide one in front of the other, instead of being on hinges. Have wide closets below, containing shelves, and drawers above the closets. There should be 2 or 3 tables in the kitchen. It will be a con- venience to have 1 table set at the end of the sink, on which to pre- pare the poultry, vegetables, etc., and have it set close to the sink so that the water will not fall between the two. Have also a small table covered with zinc on which to rest the utensils when making waffles, omelets, etc., and another table on castors, which can be moved to the center of the room, and then pushed out of the way when not in use. A liigh stool will be a great advantage in every kitchen. It can have a back or a revolving top or not, but it can be used to sit. down on while preparing vegetables, ironing, washing dishes, etc., and the weariness and backache it will save will be an immense benefit. Sit down to your work when yon can. Tlie Range. — No other article of furniture in the kitchen is so important as the range. The set and portable ranges both have their advantages, but the portable range we think is preferable on the THE KITCHEN, I>ANTRY AND STOREROOM 675 whole. We can hardly discuss at length here the merits of the ranges, gas stoves, etc., commonly used in the kitchen, but we have elsewhere discussed the care of stoves, blacking them, etc. Face the door leading from, the kitchen to the dining-room with rubber, and put on a moderately stiff spring. This will keep it closed and i^revent noisy slamming. In arranging for the ivorli in the kitchen the great aim should be to systematize things, and save steps and labor as much as pos- sible. Have a good=sized sink, an iron one is best, and have it stand up on legs without being enclosed, as all dark corners will be lurking places for dirt and insects, and servants will find it so easy to overlook them! Have hooks under the sink on which to hang dish=cloths, etc. Nothing else is equal to tiles on the walls back of the sink and range. If tiles are not used, hard wood is best; and finish it with oil. Have the strainer over the waste-pipe fast- ened down firmly — a hinged strainer is a temptation to carelessness. Have a grooved and sloping shelf at one end, set so that it will drain into the sink, on which to place dishes after washing them. Locate the sink near the range and near a window, also, so that it can be well lighted, and have brackets arranged for lamps to light it in the evening. Be sure and provide screens for the windows in summer, and if a few flower pots are put on the window sills they will give a cheerful appearance to the room. There are a few little details that are quite important in secur- ing comfort in the kitchen. One is that the sink should be scoured daily with soft soap and boiling water, and rinsed. A second is that as soon as the day's work is done, the window should be opened at the top to dispel all the unpleasant smells; and a third is that the floor should be scoured at least twice a week with plenty of water. To Clean Wooden Tables, Shelves, Dressers, etc. — Fine wood ashes sifted on from a cheese=cloth bag is better than sand. Sand, unless it is very fine, will roughen the wood so that it will be difficult to keep it clean. Always scrub with the grain of the wood, and when quite clean rinse away all dirt, and dry the wood with a flannel cloth. Soda is better to use on wood than soap, as it keeps it whiter. Grease can often be conveniently removed by cutting a ripe tomato in two and rubbing it on the s^oot. See what we say about wood floors for further points about cleaning wood. Keep an Account Boole. — Few housekeepers realize the value and importance of keeping an account of their household expenses. If an account book was kept on a shelf in the kitchen, and entries made in it of the various expendituies, it would stop many a leak, and give the housewife a much clearer idea of where the money was going, and it would furnish a basis on which to calculate expenses. We firmly believe in the value and utility of such a course, and the labor involved is not large. THE PANTRY. The pantry is second only to the kitchen in importance, and it justly receives much more attention now than formerly. Have the 676 DISHWASHING pantry roomy and well lighted. Much work can then be done more pleasantly here than in the kitchen. Place the flour barrel on a rack a few inches from the floor, to secure a draught underneath, which will prevent dampness. Have hooks at one end on which to hang sauce-pans, etc., and have an abundance of drawers, shelves and c1(js- ets for holding china, tableware, linen, etc. There can kardly be too many. In arranging the pantry, systematize everything as much as jjossible, and study convenience and economy of labor. To the busy housekeeper this is always of great importance. Pantry shelves are best washed with the solution of hot alum water elsewhere recommended, to rid them of ants, cockroaches, and other insects. THE STOREROOM. If the arrangement of the house will admit of it, a storeroom and a china closet will also be a great advantage. Have a small window in the storeroom to afford light. Provide also for its ventilation, and keep it locked. It will be a great economy to buy many articles of food by the quantity, and at favorable seasons when the prices are low, if only there is a suitable room in which to store them. Canned goods can be bought by the dozen; soap, candles, starch, etc., by the box, and so on. All foods which attract weevils or mice are best kept in tin boxes. These are more expensive than those of wood, but they are also more durable, and in the end more economical. Each box should be plainly labeled so that no mistakes about their con- tents can occur. BROOMS. — About once a week dija brooms in hot soapsuds; it can be done on wash days when the suds are at hand. It will make the brooms both tough and flexible, and will increase the wear of both carpets and brooms. Put a screw eye in the end of the handle and hang up the broom — that is the best way to keep it. Patent holders may be bought, but this answers as well. Always keep a new broom for sweeping the carpets — the old ones may be used for the outside stairs and yards, or have a coarse broom for that purpose; never use the same broom for both. DISHWASHING. fN washing dishes either have 2 pans, or 1 large oval pan with a partition in the middle, which is a very convenient arrange- ment. About half fill one pan (or division, if the latter form of pan is used) with water as hot as you can hold your hand in, shaking soap in it till a strong suds is formed. Half fill the other pan (or division) with clear water which is even hotter. The skillful dish washer will use very hot water, as the hotter it is the more perfect will be the work. Then, taking each piece separately, wash the dishes thoroughly in the first water, both inside and out, DISHWASHING 677 and in all cracks and crevices, and between the tines of the forks, etc., and rinse them in the second water, and set them on the grooved dish-drainer, beside the sink, if you have one. When well drained, wipe them dry with a clean, soft towel, as perfect drying is an impor- tant matter. In washing dishes observe the proper order. First, wash the glasses, and then the silverware, unless both of these are washed sep- arately in water containing ammonia but no soap, which is really the best way to wash them. Then wash the cups and saucers and the articles that have not come in contact with grease. Then wash the plates and dishes, which should be scraped as clean as possible, and renew the suds if need be. Then wash the tinware and other uten- sils. After washing them, put the tin, iron and granite ware in a moderately warm place near the fire to warm and dry for a few min- utes before putting them away, which will keep them fresh and sweet. In order that they may dry well do not turn down the glass- ware, etc., after wiping it, until it is put away in the closet. Some people prefer to wash their delicate china and glassware in a wooden bowl, as there is less liability of breaking or chipping it than in metal pans. Some use more soda for washing dishes, and less soap. It works well, and, if used judiciously, very little soap is needed for this prrpose. Under the head of " Glassware," " Silver- ware," etc. we give many hints about the care and cleaning of these articles. A sort of small dish^mop, tied to a handle, will be found very convenient for washing small deep articles. Every kitchen should be provided plentifully wnth towels, and they should be as regularly and carefully laundered as any of the other clothes. A failure to boil, and dry in the fresh air, is what causes the close, sour smell in dishcloths, with which all housekeepers are familiar, and it is wholly unnecessary and unpardonable. It will be best to use 3 wiping towels each time — 1 for the finer articles, another for the greasy dishes and the last for the tinware and other utensils. All the uten- sils of tin, iron, wood, etc., should be washed and wiped as carefully as the tableware. Soft crash towels are the best to use, and a dozen or more should be prepared at a time. When dishes' are washed in hard water add a little milk. Put- ting ^ to |- of a cup of milk into a dishpan half full of hot water will be a great improvement at any time; it will make the dishes brighter, and keep the hands soft. It also makes the washing of pots and tins easier. Wash dishes, kettles, etc., soon after using them; do not let them lie around unwashed. The dishwater and soapsuds may be utilized by pouring it about the roots of the raspberry or currant bushes, or young fruit trees. Few people realize what a surprisingly good fertilizer it is. No one having a garden should waste their soapsuds. Broom^corn tied with strong cords near the coarse ends, into bundles about as large as a broom handle, makes very handy wisps for cleaning pots, kettles, dishes, etc. If you sprinkle cornmeal on 678 KNIVES AND FORKS very greasy dishes, and then scrape them with one of these wisps be- fore wetting them, it will keep the dishwater much cleaner and better for use. The cornmeal can afterwards be fed to the chickens or pigs so that it will not be wasted. The wire dishcloth is invaluable in washing pots and kettles. It is always clean and never wears out. Many -servants, or ]perhaps most servants, are unreasonably care- less in handling dishes, and the number broken is often appalling. They should be told that they will be required to replace all dishes which they either break or nick (the latter is C[uite as bad as the former) or the value will be deducted from their wages. Such a rule will both make them more careful, and so avert much needless break- age, and it will develop a habit of watchfulness in the servants which will be a great benefit to them. Washing Glassivare. — Never put glass into hot water bottom first, as it will then be liable to crack from its sudden expansion, but the finest and most delicate glass will be safe if it is slipped in edge- ways, which is a fact worth remembering. KNIVES AND FORKS. TEEL knives and forks should be cleaned as quickly as possi- ble after being used; the longer they are left with stains on them the harder they will be to clean. Then dip the blades only into a jug of hot water and wipe dry with a soft linen cloth. Rubbing the blades with a flannel dipped in oil, leaving it on 1 or 2 hours, and then wiping dry improves them. Put- ting on powdered quicklime, leaving it on an hour or two, and then wiping it off, is also good. A paper box cotaining slacked lime should be kept near them in damp weather; the lime attracts the moisture in the air and prevents their rusting. To'scour knives and forks bath brick is most commonly used, and is undoubtedly good. If 2 ordinary bricks are rubbed together, and the dust gathered up and kept for this purpose, it is about as good as the bath brick. Rubbing them with pulverized charcoal also gives a superior polish. In scouring, use a cork or cloth, dipped in hot water or soft soap, and then in whatever scouring dust is used; a raw potato cut in two and used with the scouring dust, instead of a cork, cleans beautifully, A little baking soda mixed with the brick dust will make it polish better. Scour briskly until all spots are gone; then wash the article, rinse in hot water, and wipe dry. A better knife board, however, is one covered with very tl ick leather, on which emery powder is placed. Rubbing the knives on this gives a fine polish, and does not wear them out so fast as the plain board and bath brick. Ivory, bone and pearl handled knives should never be put in hot, water. The heat will soften the cement with which the handle is fastened on, and it will soon loosen. Use only lukewarm soapsuds, and lukewarm rinsing water. Great care must be used to wipe them KNIVES AND FOEKS 679 dry, and see that they are thoroughly dry before laying them away. Soapsuds does not injure ivory. An excellent way to prevent putting pearl and ivory handled knives in water while washing them is to cut narrow slits in a x>iece of tin and set this over a jar or j^ail, full of hot soda water; drop the knives or forks in the slits and the blades and prongs will go into the water, but the handles will not. To clean ivory and bone handles, and also to take off the yellow tinge, see " Bone and Ivory " elsewhere. When not in constant use ivory handled knives should be taken out occasionally and the han- dles exposed to the rays of the sun to prevent their turning yellow. Cement for Knife and Fork Handles. — Knife and fork handles which become loose may be fastened on again by nearly filling the hollow with one of the following cements, then heat the tang and press it in: (1) Melt together 4 parts resin and 1. part beeswax, when melted, stir in 1 part fine brick dust. (2) Melt together 5 parts pitch, 1 part hard tallow, 1 part wood ashes. (3) Melt to- gether 1 part resin and 1 part sulphur, and stir in 1 part brick dust. (4) Melt together 1 part colophony and ^ part sulphur; when cold grind it to a powder, and mix in f as much iron filings or brick dust. Very tenacious. To keep steel knives and forks from rusting ivhen not in use there are various methods: (1) Rub them with mutton tallow (use the I'd id) and wrap silver jjaper, or coarse brown paper around them. Do not wrap them in woolens — they do not keep well so. (2) Pre- ])are a strong solution of soda — 4 parts soda to 1 of water; dip them ( steel parts only — not the handles) into the solution, wipe dry, wrap ill coarse brown paper and keep in a dry place. (3) Have a case containing sifted quicklime about 8 inches deep; plunge them in this to the top of the blades, but do not let the lime touch the handles. (See also our article on "Steel.") To Take off Rust. — If knives become rusty, rub on sweet oil and leave it on a couple of days ; then, using a lump of fresh lime, scour them until the rust is gone. To Remove tlie Taste of Fish. — When steel knives and forks taste of fish, rub them with fresh lemon or orange peel; that will re- move the taste. Hints. — The cutlery used for the table should not be used to cook with, nor in the kitchen. Have separate sets for each pur- pose. Never put a knife into hot grease; that will take the temper out of the steel and spoil it. 680 KETTLES AND VESSELS KETTLES AND VESSELS. HEN buying iron utensils get the best quality, and see that they are well finished. Heat them gradually at first, and they will afterwards be less likely to crack. The iron taste may be removed by putting in a handful of hay and boiling it for a little while. Tin and wooden ware may be sweetened the same way. A good way to treat new iron utensils is to first wash, and wipe dry; then rub over the inside with some pure oil or fat; let stand a few hours and wash again; then heat gradually over the fire; then wash again with soap and water, rinse, wipe dry, and then rub hard with a dry towel; this will smooth the surface. As they are used, and the surface becomes smooth, they become more valuable. Do not wipe them with a wet cloth and then put on the stove to dry, as that will tend to rust them, and make the surface rust. Utensils of all kinds, iron, tin or wood, should be cleaned with the utmost care. Always fill a bowl or pan with water as soon as through with it, if you are not then ready to wash it, in order to prevent the remnants of the substance which it contained from hardening on the surface, and so becoming difficult of removal. Finjing-pans, granite tcare, etc., should be frequently scoured. Whenever they begin to look dull and rough, and all traces of the food are not removed by soap and water, scour them with sapolio or bath brick. The former is best; but keep the articles fresh and bright. To remove the fur on the kettle, if made of iron or copper, place it empty over the fire for a short time; the scaly deposit will be loos- ened so that it can be removed easily. A tea^^kettle may be prevent- ed from becoming furred by putting a clean oyster shell in it. A kettle may he easily cleaned by putting in a little hot water, putting on the cover, and boiling it a short time; the steam loosens the dirt, and it can be readily scoured off afterwards. Iron Pots or Kettles.— A new iron pot or kettle, before being cooked in, should have ashes or hay boiled in it; then scour it well with soapsuds and sand; then rinse it out and boil clean water in it for 2 or 3 hours. Many things may be safely cooked in iron which are generally cooked in granite=ware, if it is kept scrupulously clean. The outside of iron pots and kettles can be washed with hot water and soap, or soapsuds and sand. Grease an iron pot with new lard after using, to prevent its rusting. If anything hecomes burned on a kettle scrape it off with an oyster or clam shell, which is better than a knife. If a copper tea-kettle is used it can be kept bright and clean by scrubbing it off every morning with a cloth dipped in sour milk, and then washing it with clean water. A solution of salt and butter- milk will also clean a copper kettle readily; then rinse it well. KETTLES AND VESSELS 681 Before cooking fish in a kettle put it over the fire and heat it; if any odor arises clean it out with soda or whiting before using. If the smallest particle of fish remains in a kettle the next fish cooked in it is apt to be tainted. Removing Disagreeable Odors. — Disagreeable odors, like those from onions, cabbage, fish, etc., sometimes cling to cooking utensils, even after the most careful washing. (1) If they are put in hot water containing a little washing soda, potash or concentrated lye, and afterwards washed with hot suds, then rinsed and dried, they will be perfectly sweet. , (2) Odors like those from musk, coddiver oil, etc., can be removed from pans or vessels by using ground mustard mixed with a little water. Flaxseed meal, or any other of the oily seeds, or almond cake, or bitter almonds, will answer the same purpose. Scale pans or any vessel may be thus cleansed. Cake tins should be washed like other dishes, first thoroughly inside and' out with soapsuds, then rinsed, wiped clean, and thor- oughly dried. Pie-plates, baking- dishes, pans, which have been used for bak- ing and become rancid, pots, etc., can be cleaned by putting them in cold water, adding some washing soda, and bringing them to a boil; then set them aside to cool, and then scrub them thoroughly with hot soapsuds, using a small brush ; scald 2 or 3 times with hot water, and wipe dry. This will keep them sweet and clean. A sauce-pan lohich is clean outside will cook more quickly than one which is dirty, and all cooking utensils should be thoroughly clean on the outside. Half the smudges on hands, face, and clothing of the slovenly cook come from the outside of pots, pans, and kettles. After making pastry put water in the bowl used, scrape the board clean and wash it if necessary, and also the rolling-pin, although a neat pastry maker scarcely soils a board. If either a mar- ble slab or a glass rolling=pin is used they should be washed each time. A frying-pan should not have the inside scraped, as anything afterwards fried in it is liable to stick on, or burn the pan. If the inside is black, rub it with a hard crust of bread, and wash it after- wards with hot water and sand soap. Ordinarily, wash it in hot water and soda, without soap or sand; then rinse, dry thoroughly, and keep in a dry place. For cleaning porcelain kettles, etc., see "Porcelain." Sieves. — Wash sieves with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, and let them dry of their own accord. Soap stone griddles are better than iron ones. After lifting one mess of cakes, rub the griddle with brown paper before putting on another mess; do not grease it as that would spoil it. When through with it rub it clean with sand^paper before putting it away; if a little rough at first, it will soon be smoothed with the sand- paper. Tea-Kettles. — The kettle in which water is boiled for tea, of whatever material it is made, should have a lid that shuts closely, and be kept quite free from fur. If water, especially hard water, be 682 KEFRIGEEATOKS constantly boiled in the same vessel, which is filled up from time to time and never emptied, fur will accumulate. A clean oyster shell or a marble or two put into the kettle will prevent this by continually moving about as the water boils, but a much cleaner and better plan is to never let a kettle stand with a small quantity of water in it. When not actually needed for use pour out the water, rinse with clean water, wipe, and keep it dry. Teapots. — To keep a teapot clean and sweet great care is needed. Immediately after use, remove the old leaves, scald the teapot out with fresh hot water, and wipe it quite dry. Never allow the inside to become stained with the old leaves; no good tea can be made in a stained teapot. The smell alone should reveal this, and yet many persons take no pains to keep their teapots clean inside. A new tea- pot thus treated from the beginning will give little trouble and never become stained. Never put a teajoot away, even for a few hours, with the lid closed. When the lid is closed, dampness gathers, and the pot soon becomes musty. A small stick will keep the lid open, enough to admit the air and keep it sweet. To clean a musty teapot fill it with boiling water and add some strong washing soda; leave it in a day or two, and then wash out thoroughly Coffee-Pots. — For the care of coffee-pots, see our article on mak- ing coffee in the chapter on "Beverages." REFRIGERATORS. REFRIGERATOE is so useful in preserving food in hot weather, etc., that it is a very profitable investment. Its care is important. Twice a week during the season every part, except the ice compartment, should be gone over, the shelves taken out, and all the surfaces washed and wiped carefully. Once a week use some of the "washing soda" solution given among the " Useful Articles." Care must be taken that no fragment of fish, meat, or other substance lodges in any corner to de- cay and taint the contents. Once in 2 weeks will be often enough to wash the ice compartment. All strong smelling articles, as well as the milk and butter, should be kept covered, and it is a good idea to keep some charcoal in the refrigerator, changing it occasionally. Do not have the waste pipe connected directly with the sewer. If the waste water is to run into the sewer, let it drip into a tunnel connected with a pipe running to the general drainage system of the house, keeping in this way, a current of air between the drain pipe and the refrigerator. It is important that there should be no connec- tion between any place where food is kept and any drain or recepta- cle of waste matter. . SINKS AND DRAINS 683 Two refrigerators are desirable, one for milk and butter alone, and one for meat, vegetables and other food If a dish containing a good sized lump of unslacked lime is placed on a shelf in the refrigerator it will absorb the moisture, and so help to prevent mold and keep the food from spoiling. If through the carelessness of servants, butter, grease, etc., has come in contact with the zinc lining of the refrigerator and there is a musty smell which cannot be removed with the soda=wash, mix a quart of quick^lime, and apply with a paint=brush to every part of the zinc lining — top as well as bottom and sides, washing it on thick like paint. If the wooden racks or trays cannot be made sweet by the use of strong soda water and drying in the hot sun, paint them also with the thick lime-wash and you will be well pleased with the result. SINKS AND DRAINS. I LAN for a window over or near the sink. Glazed stoneware is the best material with which to line sinks. Iron is often used. Lead is not suitable as grease and soap have a ten- dency to adhere to it, and it is difficult to keep such sinks clean. A lusty iron sink may be cleaned by letting it dry, and then rub it with kerosene on a woolen cloth. Or rub it with emery powder, or with vinegar and salt. To prevent an iron sink from rusting, dissolve ^ lb. of asphaltum in spirits of turpentine, and apply it with a brush. Every day when through with the sink wash it with soap and water, or soda and water, and thus keep it uni- formly clean. All the sink brushes should be washed in soapsuds, or soda and water, once a week. See the "washing soda" given among the "Useful Articles." Vegetable Waters. — If the water in which cabbages, greens, on- ions, etc., have been boiled is poured down the kitchen sink, it is apt to emit an odor which may permeate the whole house. It is much better to throw the water in which vegetables have been boiled in the back yard away from the house. If such water is poured down the sink, even when there are sewers and traps in good working order, some deodorizing disinfectant should be poured down immediately after. Refuse. — Never sweep any refuse matter towards or down a drain pipe; and be sure and keep the holes or openings clear. Flushing Pipes. — Some people think that when the water trick- les or runs slowly, it flushes out the pipe and clears the drain. That is a great mistake. A driblet of water is useless for that purpose, and is a sheer waste. What is needed to flush and clear a pipe or drain, is a deluge of water, which acts like a torrent, sweeping things before it. The drain pipe should, once or twice a week, have a good disin- fectant poured down it. Dissolve 5 cents worth of copperas in ^ pail 684 CELLARS of water and pour it down. This is the best thing to. use, and it will kill all foul smells and keep the drain pure. Carbolic acid and chlor- ide of lime answer well, but their smell is offensive to many people, and the latter spoils food exposed to its odor. To prevent the accunmlation of greasy deijosits there should be poured down the kitchen sink once or twice a week regularly, the year round, 1 or 2 buckets of boiling hot water containing common soda or potash. This will not injure the pipes in the least, and it will keep them clean. It converts the fats into soft soap, and clears drains which at first appear to be hopelessly choked; 2 or 8 doses may occasionally be needed. Copperas is sometimes used, but for this purpose soda or potash is better. All the closets, sinks, and catch-hasiiis in the house should have some good disinfectant poured down them every 3 or 4 weeks. To detect a leak in a waste pipe go into a room where the waste pipe starts, shut the door, and pour down it a pail of boiling water containing 2 or 3 oz. oil of peppermint; let some one follow along the pipe who has not inhaled the peppermint; its strong, pun- gent odor will readily be noticed at the point of leakage. Sewer ■ Gas. — When it is suspected that sewer gas is escaping from a pipe or drain it may be readily tested by moistening some muslin in acetate of lead; wrap a single layer of this muslin over the pipe where the leak is suspected, and the cloth will be darkened by the escaping gas, if there is any. CELLARS. ^^ELLARS instead of being neglected, as they too often are, I \y should be considered as one of the most important features I a) of a home. They should be kept scrupulously clean, and ^^ well drained and ventilated. Many cases of disease can be directly traced to ilhkept cellars. Look after the drainage, and see that the cellar is kept as dry as possible. Attend also to the ventilation. A brick taken out from the bottom of the chimney flue makes a good opening for the escape of the damp air. Ventilate at the bottom when possible, so as to change the whole air in the cel- lar. Open and ventilate it as early in the spring as the weather is at all suitable, and during the whole season admit as much fresh air as possible. During summer the windows should be opened for venti- lation mostly at night — the last thing before retiring — and kept closed during the day. This allows the cool air to circulate during the night. The object to aim at is to keep the cellar cool and dry. Air admitted on a warm day into a cool cellar, will deposit its mois- ture on the cellar walls, and defeat the very object sought. Lime will absorb the moisture and noxious gases, if they cannot be expelled, or their formation prevented. A peck of lime will absorb about 3 CELLARS 685 quarts of water, and in this way a cellar can be soon dried, even in the hottest weather. Charcoal is also a great absorber of gases, and when a cellar cannot be well ventilated, and has a damp smell, a few plates of charcoal set around will greatly improve the air. A tub of broken ice with salt in it will lower the temperature of a cellar at any time. In cleaning the cellar in the spring, change the places of all boxes, barrels, etc., in order that the dampness beneath them may thoroughly dry out. Sweep overhead, and down the walls, and clean out all nooks and corners. Take special pains to clear out all remnants of vegetables, and all shreds of growing things, in order that they may not remain to decay and pollute the air. Exhalations from such things will find their way into the rooms above and often injure the health of the family. It is an excellent plan to white- wash the walls and ceiling, making the whitewash yellow with cop- peras, and add a little salt. That will kill all insects and sweeten the cellar. Carry out and destroy all rubbish, and sprinkle thoroughly all over the cellar bottom, a strong solution of copperas water and common salt, put in a watering pot; a second sprinkling also will be all the better. The unpleasant odor which often taints milk, meat, etc., can be prevented by using about 1 oz. of carbolic acid to a gal- lon of whitewash. Chloride of Lime. — As the odor of chloride of lime will spoil the flavor of all foods, it should not be used to disinfect cellars. A hanging shelf in the cellar is indispensable, and a dark cup- board for storing canned fruit. The bottom of this cupboard or closet should be well set up from the bottom of the cellar to prevent dampness and mold. Cellar ivindoivs should (1) be protected on the outside with iron bars, strong coarse wire netting,, or strong wooden bars; (2) inside this outer screen should be a wire screen, fine enough to keep out flies and other insects; (3) the glass windows should be hung on hinges to open and shut in a moment's time when needed. A cellar should be supplied with light. Divide the cellar into different rooms which can be kept at dif- ferent temperatures, if the cellar is to be used for various purposes such as storing vegetables and fuel, and containing the furnace. The Floor. — Make the cellar floor of about 6 inches of concrete, and cover it with Portland cement or asphalt. In damp soil put til- ing under the floor, and so drain the water out and carry it away from the house. Remember that a cellar free from dampness and ground air is essential to health, and if economy is necessary other things should be sacrificed to obtain this. The Walls. — If cellar walls are built of brick, water will pass through however thick they may be, unless they are built hollow. In building, put a thin outer wall 2 or 8 inches from the main one, binding the two together by an occasional brick laid across. Make the wall air and water tight if possible. If cellar walls are damp, apply one of the compositions given elsewhere for damp walls. 686 THE ICE=HOUSE AND ICE When cellars have been floodec^ iliey should be thoroughly dis- infected after the inundation subsides. About the best thing for this purpose is chloride of zinc; copperas is cheaper, and answers fairly well, but is not equal to the zinc. THE GARBAGE PAIL OR BARREL.— Neglected garbage pails are a sure and ready breeding place for dangerous and disease breed- ing bacteria; and yet many otherwise neat housekeepers often neglect them. They should be regularly emptied and carefully cleaned. On the weekly washing day, when there is a good supply of suds, is a good time for cleaning them. Take an old broom and scrub the pail thoroughly with the suds, and scrub the lid also. Then throw in a solution of washing soda or lye, in hot water, and scrub it around with a little whisk, touching every part with this disinfecting solu- tion; then rinse it with clean water, drain it, and set in the hot sun to dry. THE ICE=HOUSE AND ICE. "X CE in the summer is a great convenience, almost a necessity, and 1^ a supply can be put up by the people in the country much ^^ more easily than many imagine. An ice=house need not be put under ground even in part, and the expense of building a mod- erate sized one is small, or a corner can be partitioned off in the shed, or even in the barn. The best lumber is not needed, but it will be a good plan to coat it inside with coal tar to prevent its de- caying from its constant exposure to dampness. The roof should be tight, and provision made at the bottom for drainage so that any water which comes from melting ice may run off freely. It is not necessary to use matched lumber, but a space of 12 to 15 inches should be left between the ice and the walls, when packing it away, which should be filled in with sawdust, and as that settles down, more should be added. Chaff' or straw cut fine, may be used instead of the sawdust if that is hard to get. As the ice melts rather more at the sides than at the top, the house should be rather wide than deep. The best time to cut the ice is as soon' in the winter as it is frozen sufficiently thick, and before it has beeni thawed or honey- combed by the sun, as happens later in the season. If packed away when the thermometer is about' zero it can be handled most easily, and keejis best. Put a foot or more of sawdust on the floor before packing in any ice. Cut the ice in even blocks, and pack it as closely as possible,. filling all crevices with sawdust, and when the ice is all stored spread 12 or 15 inches of sawdust on the top. Do not allow any openings for drafts. The ice will cool the air sur- rounding it, and if that is carried away and warm air comes in to fill its place, it will hasten the melting of the ice; also when taking- out ice for use, cover the openings which are formed with sawdust, so that none will be left exposed to the air. By this simple plan fami - lies in the country and villages can lay in a year's supply of ice at a slight expense. THE ICE-HOUSE AND ICE 687 HINTS ABOUT ICE. — Ice should only be cut from clear streams and ponds in which the water is fresh and pure. The poisonous properties and living organisms contained in impure water are not destroyed by freezing, although many people erroneously think they are. Much of the ice sold in our cities and towns is utterly unfit for drinking purposes because of these contaminations which often en- danger the health. Always rinse ice well before sending it to the table. To Keep Ice.— li is sometimes desirable to keep a small quan- tity of ice where there is no refrigerator. In that case, put the ice on a dish, cover it with a napkin, set it on a pillow, put another pillow over it, and it can be kept a week or so. Or, wrap it up in paper (newspapers are as good as any kind) and then cover it with woolen or other cloths. Each time the ice is opened, dry paper should be supplied. The sheets can be dried and used over again if de- sired. Wrapped in 3 or 4 thicknesses of woolen cloth it will keep for' some time if set in a cool place. To Cut Ice. — Ice may be readily cut by tapping it with a hatchet, or any sharp-pointed instrument. An awl will break ice easily, and is much better to use than to batter up knives, forks, etc., trying to cut it. When not in use, stick the point of the awl into a cork. Ice may be cut into small pieces of any shape by merely tap- ping it with the point of a needle. To Keep Ice - Water. — Ice^water may readily be kept a long time by putting cotton batting between two thicknesses of paper (use heavy brown paper, or 2 or 3 sheets of newspaper) and making it into a paihlike covering, large and deep enough to set over the pitch- er and completely cover it. A cheap and handy ice pitcher is thus readily make. Freezing Mixtures. — Ice in combination with salt is the best material for freezing ices, etc., but when ice is not readily obtained, or when traveling, or for cooling water or food in sick rooms, etc., where ice is not readily managed, freezing mixtures are often very convenient. The following may at times be useful: (1) Thoroughly mix 1 part by weight of muriate of ammonia with 2 parts nitrate of potash or saltpetre; next mix and stir well together equal quantities of this mixture and finely^crushed washing soda; put them in a freez- ing machine and pour on as much cold water as will dissolve them. ( 2 ) Take equal parts of muriate of ammonia and nitrate of potash ; when required for use add more than double its weight of water. (3) Use sahammoniac, 5 parts; nitrate of potash, 5 parts; Glaubers' salts, 8 parts; water 16 parts. With this the thermometer can be lowered to 10° F. All freezing mixtures have some solid substance which rapidly turns to a liquid, cind in so doing it absorbs heat from the air or surrounding substances and so lowers their temperature. It is on this principle that their value depends. 688 WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC, WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. WELLS. N ample supply of pure water is of the first importance to the health of any family. In cities and villages there is great danger that the water in wells may be contaminated, and even in the country that is a source of danger that should be guarded against. As a rule deep wells are safer from con- tamination than shallow ones, but they may be subject to pollution under certain circumstances. As to the least distance between wells and cesspools compatible with safety, while the London Local Gov- ernment Board is satisfied with 20 to 30 yards, other authorities in- sist on 200 yards. It is safe to say that cesspools should be as far removed from wells as possible. Frequently in country villages, wells and cesspools are so inter- mixed that the entire bed of water is polluted, and then all the wells are unsafe. In isolated houses, if the well and cesspool are some distance, apart, pollution will depend chiefly on the direction of the movement of the underground water. If this movement is from the cesspool toward the well, the polluted water will flow towards it; if the movement is in the other direction, the polluted water will flow away from the well. Hence, before sinking a well where sources of contamination are in the vicinity, the direction of the flow of the underground water should, if possible, be ascertained. It is not safe to assume that this flow is in the direction of the fall of the land. While it is often so, it is not always. Generally, however, it would not be wise to have a cesspool higher than a well in its neighbor- hood. Contamination from surface soakage can frequently be pre- vented by raising the top of the well above the adjoining ground, and paving the surface round the well with a slope, so that the rain= water runs away from it. It is best to always have the land around the well slope away from it wherever possible. People who throw slops and refuse near a well act with criminal carelessness — rank poison might about as well be put in the water. Don't commit suicide that way. A well should always be covered over so as to exclude all leaves and flying- matter. '^ In cities the public authorities should supply wholesome water. The consumer should see that it is not contaminated on his premises. Boil the water if there is doubt about its purity, as boiling kills all disease breeding germs, and is the readiest way to insure safety to the health. The water should actively boil 20 to 30 minutes to be effectual — less than that is not a suflicient safeguard. To examine a well or cistern reflect in the sunlight at morning or evening with a good=sized looking-glass, If there are any con- taminating articles present, like leaves, etc., they can be readily dis- covered in this way, and should be removed. Carbonic Acid Gas or " Choke Damp " in Wells. — This is heavier than air and will often collect at the bottom of wells, WELLS, CISTEKNS, WATER, ETC. 689 cisterns, etc. Before entering them a lighted candle should be lowered; if it continues to burn, no such gases are present; but if it goes out, it will be dangerous for any one to enter until the poisonous gases are expelled. To do this, throw down a peck or two of unslaked lime; as it slacks it will generate heat enough to start an upward current and drive out the foul air. Test it again, however, before entering. A few very hot bricks thrown in will often answer the same purpose, or some lighted shavings or paper thrown in may answer the purpose. Recovering Lost Articles. — Any small steel or iron article lost in a well or cistern may- be recovered by letting down a strong magnet with a cord. CISTERNS. The position of a cistern should be carefully chosen. It should be where it can be got at, and should be arranged so that the air can get at it to ventilate it. It should not be located where it will be exposed to foul odors, nor to a steam laden atmosphere. Linings foi- cisterns are numerous. Cast iron cisterns made of plates bolted together, if kept full and not subject to rust, are unob- jectionable. Galvanized iron linings are attacked by some waters and are not suitable for any cistern from which the water will be iised for drinking purposes. Sheet lead is sometimes used. While it cannot be said that all water drawn from a leaden cistern wdll injuriously affect the health if used for drinking, it is not the best lining to use. Some waters attack lead more readily than others. A whitish coating formed on the interior of a lead4ined cistern is due to a chemical alteration of its surface, and then the contained w^ater may be drunk with more or less impunity. In cleaning out a lead= lined cistern never scrape the surface, but merely wash it down with a moderately hard brush, because the effort should be not to remove this whitish coating, but only to clean it. Zinc is one of the worst linings, and should never be used for a cistern containing water that will be used for drinking. 'Wooden tanks or barrels should not be employed for storing water anywhere in a house, as they become lined with a low vegetable growth detrimental to health. Slate and stone make as good linings as can be devised, but are little used because of their weight. A cement lining is nearly as good. A good cement to use is made of 2 parts sand and 1 part hydraulic lime. Mix these together first, and then add the water, mixing it as needed, as it begins to harden soon. The coating should be an inch thick. Cisterns are sometimes built with a brick partition through the center, and the water being let into one part filters through into the other. Although this does not make a perfect filter, it answers fairly well, but such cisterns should be carefully cleaned out from time to time. All cisterns should be cleaned at least once a year. Do not build cisterns under the house, as the air above them will then always be bad, and they cannot readily be cleaned. On no 44 69U WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. account allow any connection between the cistern and any receptacle of filtli; water is contaminated too easily. Never allow an overflow pipe from a cistern to run to a cesspool or privy vault, for gases may thus enter and permeate the water. See what we say elsewhere about the absorbability of water. Many lives have been thus lost. Filter or boil cistern water before drink- ing it. A wooden pump in a cistern will soon decay, become covered with moss and collect filth. The best thing is an iron pipe, with the pump in the kitchen. The cheapest of all cisterns are made by setting fire to the inside of kerosene barrels; as soon as the kerosene is burned out and the barrel begins to char, turn the top down onto the ground to smother the flame. These barrels may be placed at the rear of buildings under the eaves. Over each one intended for clean water tie a square of cheese-cloth with a sag in the center; this keeps out dirt and mosquitoes. After being emptied once or twice, and refilled by the rains, the water {after ivell boiling) will be fit to use for cook- ing purposes. In a dry time a little water should be left in the barrels to prevent shrinkage. In this way they will be sweet and good for years — one known to the writer has been used 20 years. (This answers in the country where wood is burned and there is little soot, but is hardly adapted to cities.) WATER. Testing Water. — The impurities in water, for which tests are applied, embrace those which affect its character for drinking, cook- ing and washing purposes. For cooking and washing, water cannot be too soft. For drinking, however, it should be moderately hard, as it supplies much of the lime required in building up the bones of the body. The chief evil in drinking water, is the presence of organic ferments, by which are meant all contamination from sewers or drains, decaying matter, etc. The simplest and easiest method of neutralizing these organic ferments is by boiling. All the drinking water should be thus treated when such contamination is suspected, for boiling practically neutralizes all organic contaminations by kill- 'ing all bacteria and spores. Heisch gives a very simple test for the purity of water. He says that good water should be free from color, unpleasant odor and flavor, and should afford a good lather with a small proportion of soap. If ^ pint of water be placed in a clean, colorless, glass^^stop- pered bottle, a few grains of the best white lump sugar added, and the bottle freely exposed to the daylight in the window of a warm room, the liquid should not become turbid even after exposure for a week or 10 days. If, while the stopper remains secure, it becomes turbid, it is open to grave suspicion of sewage contamination; while if it remains clear it is almost certainly safe for drinking and all domestic purposes. Dr. Hagar has proposed a very simple and valuable test for the presence of fermentable poisonous matter. It consists in putting a WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 691 tablespoon of a clear solution of tannin in a tumbler of the water. If any gelatinous turbidity appears within the first hour, the water is unwholesome. If turbidity occurs within 2 hours the water is not to be recommended. If no turbidity occurs within 5 hours, the w^ater may be considered good. Test for Hard or Soft Water. — Dissolve a small quantity of good soap in alcohol; let a few drops fall in a glass of the water. If it turns milky it is hard; if not it is soft. Test for Earthy Matters or Alkali. — (1) Take litmus paper dipped in vinegar, and if, on immersion, the paper returns to its true shade the water does not contain earthy matter or alkali; otherwise it does. (2) If a few drops of syrup be added to a glass of water containing earthy matter, it will turn green. Test for Acid. — Put in a piece of litmus paper; if it turns red there must be acid present. If it precipitates on adding lime water, it is carbonic acid. If a blue sugar paper is turned red, it is a mineral acid, and there would be reason to suspect poisonous metallic salts. Test for Carbonic Acid. — Take equal parts of the water to be tested, and clear lime water, and pour them together. If combined or free carbonic acid is present, a precipitate is seen, in which, if a few drops of rnuriatic acid is added, an efifer- vescence commences. Test for Iron. — (1) Boil a little nut-gall, and add to the water. If it turns grey or slate color, iron is present. Or, (2) dissolve a little prussiate of potash and add it; if iron is present it will turn blue. Test for Lime, — Into a glass of the water put 2 drops of oxalic acid, and blow upon it; if it gets milky, lime is present. Test for Magnesia. — Boil the water to one^twentieth part of its weight and then drop a few grains of neutral carbonate of ammonia into a glass of it, and a few drops of phosphate of soda; if magnesia be present it will fall to the bottom. To Soften Hard Water. — Water is said to be hard when it curdles soap. To soften hard water there are various methods: (1) Boiling water softens it greatly. (2) A little quicklime (2 oz. will answer for 20 or 25 gallons) added to water and allowed to stand over night will soften it; the lime unites with the carbonates, and precip- itates to the bottom. (8) Put wood ashes or a gallon of good lye into a barrel of water; it will soften the water in 1 night. (4) Ammonia will soften water, but is too expensive to use for large quan- tities. (5) A boiler | full of water can be softened by adding 2 oz. of sal soda. (6) Dissolve a box of concentrated lie in 1 quart of water; keep it bottled; 1 teaspoon of this will soften half a boiler of water. (7) A little borax will soften cistern water hardened by long standing. (8) Hard spring water may be softened by adding a little chalk. The hardness of water is caused by the presence of certain salts, like those of lime and magnesia, sulphate of lime (gypsum) being the most common. When carbonate of soda is added it unites with the sulphate of lime, forming carbonate of lime, which settles in solid form. Water for Cooking. — Draw your water for cooking from the cold water faucets — never from the hot water faucets. For either drinking or cooking do not use water which runs through zinc lined iron pipes; it will do for washing, but that is all. (See what we say elsewhere about galvanized iron ware.) To Clarify Rain -Water. — When rain=water in a cistern has become dark and greasy looking, it may be clarified quite well with 692 WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. powdered alum and borax; ^ lb. of each will answer for 50 barrels or more. The sediment will settle in a few hours. Charcoal put in a bag and hung in a barrel or cistern of dirty or foul smelling water will purify it. " Wigglers" in cistern water may be easily cleared out by put- ting in a few small fish (minnows); they will eat the "wigglers," and clear the water. To Purify Stagnant Water. — Fit a suitable pipe on a pair of bellows, and drive as much air as possible through the water; then allow the water to settle and it will be fit for use. The Ahsorhing Poiver of TVater. — Few people realize the ab- sorbing power of water. A pail full set in the room, at the ordinary temperature, will absorb 1 pint of carbonic acid gas; ice- water will absorb a quart, i. e., twice as much, because when very cold its ab- sorbing power is greater. It purifies the air, but it will be readily seen that water is not fit to drink after standing for a time in a room. To purify the air in a room a pail or pitcher of cold water, changed frequently, is a simple and valuable aid, and for the reason stated above. Water ritajj he kept cool when you have no ice, by putting it ill 'c. jar or tin pail, covering it with coarse wet cloths or carpets, and putting it in a cool, shady place, where there is a breeze or draft if possible; the rapid evaporation from the wet cloths, cools the water by absorbing the heat from it. Filtering Water. — An inexpensive domestic filter may be made as follows: Take a good common iron pail to the tin-shop and have a hole cut in the center of 'the bottom about ^ inch in diameter, and have a piece of tin about f inch deep soldered around it to form a spout to direct the flow of water in a uniform direction. Obtain some fine stones or pebbles, wash them thoroughly, and place them about 2 in. deep at the bottom of the pail. On this put a sheet of horsediair cloth or canton flannel, cut to the size of the pail. On this place a layer of animal charcoal about '6 or 4 in. thick. Any char- coal is good for this purpose, but animal charcoal is much better than wood. It can be bought of the druggist. Put in a second sheet of the cloth, and on this put a layer of iron filings, borings or turnings, mixed with an equal quantity of fine charcoal. The iron filings should be washed -in a hot solution of soda or potash before using them, to remove oil or other impurities, and then rinse them care- fully in clear water. The finer they are the better. Have this layer about 6 in. thick. Then place another sheet of the cloth, and on it about 2 in. of fine, clean silicious sand, like that used by glassmakers, and on top of this more cloth, with a few pebbles to hold it down and you will have a perfect filter, producing a remarkably pure drink- ing water. Of course, a wooden keg may be used in place of the iron pail suggested, with a faucet rigged at the side to draw off the water; but the water should filter through slowly to obtain the best results, and the deeper the bed of iron filings and charcoal the more speedy their action will be. Any filter whatever will in time become con- WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 693 taminated with the impurities collected from the water — the length of time depending on the amount of the impurities. For this reason the filings should be taken out occasionally (say once in 6 or b months) and the pebbles and sand thoroughly cleaned with boiling water and soda or potash, and then rinsed, and the charcoal and iron renewed. Because of failure to do this many old filters become so clogged with impurities that they become very filthy, and almost worse than none at all. The value of charcoal as a filtering material is well known, and the value of the iron consists in the fact that it attracts oxygen to its surface, which is changed to ozone, by which the organic matter in the water is consumed. Professor Dobroslavine, the chemist, of St. Petersburg, says that if to each 12 quarts of water there are added 8 grains of per=chloride of iron and 12 grains of crystallized carbonate of soda, it will cause a precipitate which will carry down all suspended impurities, leaving the water clear at the end of 45 minutes. Pure snow when melted produces ^ its bulk in pure, soft water. PUMPS AND PIPES. To Prevent the -Freezing of Water Pipes — In the winter the best way in cities where hydrants are used is to have a valve ar- ranged so that the water can be turned off and the pipes emptied at night. Letting the water run slowly prevents freezing, but is waste- ful. Where pumps are used a simple and effective plan is to take out the lower valve on the approach of winter, and drive a tack under it, so arranged that the valve will not close perfectly tight. This will not prevent the pump from working, but will allow the water to leak back into the cistern or well. The pump will have to be primed on starting it, but that is easily done. Another way to prevent the freezing of water pipes is by having a small spherical cistern of thin copper attached to the lower part of the water pipe, and a gas burner fixed below it. When the gas jet is lighted the cistern becomes a boiler on a small scale, circulating sufficient warmth through the pipes to prevent their freezing. The household may be saved from the winter's freezing mishaps by this simple device. A frozen pump may be thawed out most quickly by putting a small pipe or tube down directly on to the ice, and then pouring in the hot water through this pipe. It strikes directly on the ice and thaws it 10 times as fast as it would if poured into the pump without the pipe or tube. To thaw out frozen .pipes the readiest way is to pour hot water on cloths laid over the frozen part. The freezing will generally be found to have taken place at a bend, or near a window or exposed place. If the pipe is slightly under ground it may be thawed by putting a heap of lime on the earth, wetting it a little, and covering it with blankets; it will draw the frost out of the ground and thaw out the water pipes. Water pipes which are liable to freeze, as when they run along cold walls, etc., will be somewhat protected by wrapping them with some non-conducting material like felt, mineral=wool, asbestos, etc. 694 ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. For a leakage in an iron pipe, mix iron filings into a stiff paste with vinegar. Dry the pipe and fill the crack with this paste; it will soon harden and stop all leakage. It will also securely fasten a thin iron plate over a hole too large to stop with the paste alone. For other cements see "Cements." To prevent the ''far,'''' i. e., the scale or lining crust which so frequently chokes up hot water pipes, dissolve in the water some sal= ammoniac (muriate of ammonia) at the rate of 1 oz. to every 60 gal- lons of water used. Do this twice a year, spring and fall, and it will cure the trouble. Kinds of pipe. — Iron water pipes are much better to use than lead. Both oxidize, but the oxide of lead is poisonous, and the oxide of iron is not. Water for drinking should never be allowed to stand in a lead pipe. Tin pipes, or iron lined with tin, are the best there are; galvanized iron should never be used, for the reason ex- plained elsewhere about galvanized iron ware. ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. ROOFS. HINGLES covered with a wash composed of lime, salt and fine sand or wood-ashes, and put on like whitewash, will be very much more safe against fire from falling cinders. The wash also preserves against the effect of the weather. Old shingles are generally more or less warped and cracked. This appli- cation, by washing the upper surface, restores them to their original form, thus closing the space between the shingles, while the lime and sand fills up the cracks and prevents warping. The older the shingles the more they are benefited. A little lamp-black added will make the wash the color of the old shingles and prevent the glare of a whitewashed roof. New shingles which before being laid are dipped in a wash of lime, and then dried, will be much more durable, and moss will not gather on them. When felt is not convenient, a waterproof roofing may be made from old newspapers, by applying coats of hot coal tar to them with a brush, and uniting several thicknesses together. Small leaks in a roof may be stopped with one of the waterproof cements given among our cements; or take common white lead paint and mix fine sand in it. Tin roofs should be kept well painted to preserve them from rust. A roofing for outbuildings may be made by boiling tar in an iron kettle, and stirring in finely powdered charcoal till it is as thick as mortar. Then spread it on a boarded covering to the thickness of \ inch, and it will become hard and durable. ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC 695 DOORS. Ill fitting doors which do not shut tightly, but have cracks around them admitting the air, may be readily remedied as advised for the similar difficulty with windows (which see). The chalk should be applied to the door, which will prevent its adhering to the putty, and all cracks will be effectually closed. Hinges which creak may be cured by applying a little oil or mutton tallow, or put a little graphite or powdered lead from a soft lead pencil on the spot which squeaks. Locks ivhich do not ivork well are often merely rusted; apply a little oil and they will be all right. Latches and locks should have a little graphite or oil applied occasionally, and they will work more easily. Clean plated handles and hinges on doors by rubbing with a flannel cloth wet with kerosene and dipped in whiting; polish with dry flannel. Clean the woodwork as explained elsewhere for painted or varnished surfaces. WALLS. Brick walls should be hollow. As bricks are great absorbers of water, if the wall is solid and the plaster laid directly on it the house will be damp in spite of a housekeeper's efforts. Never lay the plas- ter directly on the brick, but " fur " it, nail on scantling, and then lath and plaster on that as in a frame house. Damp Walls. — If all houses were built as they should be, with hollow walls, there would be little complaint of damp walls. A course of slate cemented into a wall while building, as soon as the wall leaves the ground, or just above the foundation, effectually pre- vents all dampness from rising. It is a usual thing in newly built houses for the walls to exude the moisture which has been used in making the plaster; this is called " sweating"; wipe the walls dry as often as it appears. ( 1 ) The following simple remedy applied to stone walls will pre- vent all damp from entering, and any vegetable substance from growing upon them. Take 1^ lbs. resin, 1 lb. Russian tallow, and 1 quart linseed oil; melt, mix well together, and apply hot to the sur- face of the stone. (2) For brickwork the ''Builder'''' gives the fol- lowing: Take f lb. of mottled soap to the gallon of water; apply it steadily and carefully with a large flat brush so as not to form a froth or lather; let it dry 24 hours. Then mix ^ lb. of alum with 4 gallons of water; let stand 24 hours, and apply it in the same manner over the coating of soap. Do this in dry weather. (3) Per- haps no application is cheaper or more efficacious than the follow- ing. Into a tin or metallic pail, place 1 gallon of benzoline spirit; then melt 1^ or 2 lbs. of soft paraffine wax, and when well heated, pour it into the spirit, and stir. Apply the solution to the walls while warm, with a whitewash brush. To prevent the solution from chilling, place the tin in a pail of hot 'water, but on no account 696 ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. bring it near a fire or a serious accident may occur. Whilst this is being applied the smell is very disagreeable, but that soon goes off. Hard paraffine wax is not so good to use, as the solution has to be kept much hotter. WALKS. To Kill Weeds. — Gravel walks, pavements or driveways, may be kept clear of weeds or grass by making a strong brine of common salt and water; put this in an ordinary sprinkling jDot and sprinkle it on thoroughly. Do not get any on tho grass on" the side, or that will also be killed. Or a dressing of salt may be scattered along the walk or drive instead. It is death to the weeds. For garden walks one of the simplest and best things to use is common coal ashes. They become hard and make an excellent walk, while grass and weeds will not grow on or through them. An arti- ficial asphalt for walks, shed-floors, etc., may be made by levelling the place to be covered, and then spreading on a thin coat of tar; over this sift some road^sand or coal ashes; let it harden, and repeat the operation 4 or 5 times. To kill moss and earth worms in lawns, mix equal quantities of earth or leached ashes, and fresh lime (pulverized) and sprinkle it on; it will kill them. LIGHTNINGRODS. When properly constructed, lightningrods have been proveu oeyond question to be sufficient protection against lightning; when not properly constructed they are worse than useless. The essen- tials are: (1) The rod must offer an unbroken conductor from the apex to the ground. The joints are best welded together, or screw both ends into 1 nut. (2) The shorter and more direct the course of the rod to the earth the better; bends should be rounded, and not formed at acute angles. (8) Copper is the best conductor but too expensive. Iron is generally used. Galvanizing improves it; or cover it with black paint, (itself a good conductor) as a protection against rust. Wire ^ to f in. in diameter will do. (4) The apex should be pointed. A coating of platinum or other non-oxidizable metal is an improvement. So is a group of 3 or 4 points. Any blacksmith can weld the extra points to the main wire. (5) The circle within which the rod is effective is generally assumed to be twice the height of the rod; hence on large buildings there should be several rods. (6) All metallic roofs, tanks, etc., should be in good .conducting connection with the rod. So should iron water pipes or steam pipes within the building. (7) Fasten the rod se- curely in place with iron eyes or staples. Glass insulators are of little value, as when wet, they become conductors. (8) The earth connection is very important. Nothing is better than connection with the iron water pipes in a city. In the country, run it into the nearest well. Weld on a copper end to withstand the rust, and let it go to the bottom. Never let the rod end in dry earth. Where a HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING 697 well is not convenient, make a hole 6 in. or more wide, and 9 to 16 feet long, put the rod in the center, and pack around it with freshly heated charcoal. It will preserve the wire and lead the electricity into the ground. Any blacksmith can put up such a rod. The above are all the essentials. All fancy fixings in addition are useless. HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING. OUSECLEANING time is usually one of terror to all the members of the family — to the women who do most of the work, and the men who are made uncomfortable dur- ing the process. If properly managed, however, many of the discomforts can be prevented, and the work made much easier. The first thing to do is to make ready. Take time for this — a week at least. Provide carpet tacks, soap, disinfectants, materi- als for making whitewash, etc., so that at the last minute you- will not run out of the very thing you need" most, and so lose both time and patience. Arrange for your help also. Unless it is some one who has helped you before and knows your ways it will be better to get a woman a few days in advance, so that you can get her broken in a little before the tug of war begins. Do not start too early in the spring. Wait until you can let the fires go out without discomfort, and until there is settled and pleas- ant weather. It is much easier to clean house during pleasant weather; but no hard and fast rule can be laid down about the exact time to commence, as the seasons and circumstances vary, and the housewife should adapt herself to the conditions. The golden rule in housecleaning is to make it as little burden- some as possible, and not to turn the whole house upside down at once. Leave some rooms undisturbed while others are being cleaned, so that there will be a place in which to live comfortably, and rest in at times, during the whole process of renovation. Having made ready and planned for the work, the best time to begin usually is on Monday morning. This comes after the Sunday rest, and one feels more like beginning a new campaign at that time. Try to do the work, however, on pleasant days, when things can be set out doors and well aired, and the windows thrown open freely. There is no doubt that the orthodox way for cleaning a house is to begin at the top and work down, sending all the dirt and dust to the lower regions as the work goes on; but this is not always conven- ient, and it is often best to clean certain rooms during the absence of the occupants. We prefer to begin with the cellar. That is too often neglected till the last, and then, when all tired out, it is hastily and imperfectly done. There is really no room in the house more important to the health and well being of the family. Clean out all vegetable matter with the utmost care, move boxes, barrels, etc., and 698 HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING clean under them, and whitewash the walls, having plenty of cop- peras in the whitewash used. (See our article on the cellar for fur- ther hints about its management.) Then go to the attic. Ventilate it thoroughly, and remove all papers or other rubbish. Clean every part thoroughly, sweeping overhead, and then washing the woodwork, windows, etc. Go through the miscellaneous collections and throw away or give away what you do not need. If there are any signs of moths take prompt action. They will probably be found in the cracks of the floor. Benzine s]prinkled along the cracks and crevices is sure death to them. The smell will soon evaporate, but on account of its great inflammability it must be used with great caution, and never at all near a light or fire. Then, having washed the floor (in washing floors in any of the upper stories be careful not to let water run through the cracks to injure the ceil- ings below) and cleaned down the steps, you are ready for the bed- rooms. If the closets are cleaned out first they will be very conven- ient to store things in while cleaning the rooms. If carbolic acid is put in the water used to rinse the floors, walls, etc., it will kill all bugs or insects. The smell will soon disappear, and it will leave the floor and walls fresh and sweet. In fact, the more general use of carbolic acid water would be a great gain to most housekeepers. It is an excellent disinfectant. A 5 per cent, solution is strong enough for this purpose. Wash the floors, etc., first, and then rinse them off with the carbolic acid water. Now clear everything out of the bedroom which can possibly be taken out, and have all dust brushed off the toj^s of doors, windows, ceilings, walls, and every possible lurking place, whether there is to be painting, papering and whitewashing done or not. Then thor- oughly brush and examine the mattresses and beds, and move them out of the room. No matter how clean the bedstead may look, take it to pieces and examine it carefully. In these days, when people travel and visit so much, insect pests may be brought into the clean- est houses, and constant watchfulness is necessary. If there is the least sign of the presence of any unwelcome visitors, use freely some exterminator which will finish them. It will not be enough to ireat the bed and the bedstead alone, if their presence is found, for they will also infest the baseboards, floor and walls. After taking up the carpets it is a good plan to wash the floor with alum, borax or car- bolic acid water, and to sprinkle powdered alum, borax or cayenne pepper on the floor before putting down the carpet, as these are much disliked by moths and will tend to keep them away. Lay down the carpet, turn back the edges, and sprinkle whichever you use along or under the edge of the carpet; then turn it back and tack it down. The same plan can be pursued in other rooms. The best meth- ods of cleaning carpets, furniture, pictures, etc., are so fully treated elsewhere that we need not further discuss them here. Having cleaned the bedrooms, the halls can be cleaned next, and then the parlors, sitting and dining rooms, halls and kitchen. The best meth- ods of cleaning all the different articles found in the home are fully HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING 699 explained in their appropriate places in these pages, and the house- wife can easily refer to those articles for more detailed information. Having cleaned the house, the yards and sheds should receive attention. Gather up and burn all refuse that will burn, and remove or bury what will not; and leave no foul corners untouched. Plow up or disinfect all spots where refuse heaps have stood. Sprinkle chloride of lime in all damp places, and dry them out if possible. The germs of many diseases may thus be killed, and much sickness avoided. Finally, do not make yourself sick by overwork. Take some time for rest as you go along; plan your work carefully, and then when all is done you will not be completely exhausted and worn out. Your own health and comfort during the process should be consid- ered, and the work made as easy as possible. DUSTINQ — Where does all the dust come from? is a question frequently asked. In all our cities and towns the quantity of dust seems to be unlimited — it seems to be an ever increasing product of our civilization. But much of the dust is never really gotten rid of. Miss Florence Nightingale has very sensibly remarked that " no par- ticle of dust is ever, or can ever be, removed or really got rid of by the present way of dusting (with feather dusters). Dusting, in these days, means nothing but flapping the dust from one part of a room to another, with doors and windows closed. What you do it for, I cannot think. You had much better leave the dust alone, if you are not going to take it away altogether; for from the time the room begins to be a room, up to the time when it ceases to be one, no one atom of dust can ever actually leave it thus. To dust, as it is now practiced, really means to distribute the dust more evenly over the room." A layer of dust is always unwholesome, and when penetrated by dampness it ferments, decays and becomes positively poisonous; especially is this true in clamp weather, and in those rooms not dried out by a good fire. Certainly, for both health and comfort, the rooms can not be kept too free from any deposit of dust. ' But this cannot be done efPectually with the feather duster. Bid farewell to the dear old relic, and supplant it with the damp cloth. Cheese cloth makes the best duster. There is a wide meshed kind suitable for the purpose which is as soft as silk, and is cheap. It should be so slightly moistened as to hold no suggestion of wet,* and it will gather up and hold the dirt, not throw it out to float in the air and light elsewhere. Go all around the room with this, omit- ting nothing. Wipe over the backs of chairs and table legs, clean out open worked carving, and wipe in all out=of=the=way places. A small paint brush may be used to clean out cracks, crevices, etc., and those only. Lift small articles off the table and dust under them, instead of wiping around themi. Dust the walls and ceilings with canton flannel, nap outside, and tied over a broom, or better, around the mop of a long handled window brush. 700 THE BEDROOM AND BEDS If the rooms of the house are swept as we have , elsewhere ex- plained, and dusted in this manner, nine=tenths of the ever trouble- some dust will be got rid of (exterminated, not scattered) and the rooms will have a delightfully fresh, clean and wholesome appearance. It may seem like a little more trouble at first, but when the rooms are once cleared from dust there will be no desire to return to the old methods. THE BEDROOM AND BEDS. THE BEDROOM. fF a house is well built, suitably located, and free from dampness, a bedroom may be on the ground floor, although as a rule one of the upper floors is better. It has been well said that " a bedroom should be deaf to noise, and blind to light." It is not always possible to attain this, but it is the object to aim at. The glare of a sunny room may be modified by linen curtains, and a baize covering to the door will deaden sound. The room should be well ventilated, and yet free from draughts. The windows should open from the top, and there should be a fireplace in the room, if possible. A painted and varnished wall is doubtless the best. It is non= absorbent, and is easily cleaned. If papered, let the design be free from any pronounced figures or striking patterns, which, in the half4ights of the night or early morning, will suggest to the tired brain weird figures or mathematical problems. A bedroom should be light, rather than dark, and the furniture and general woodwork, such as the doors, wainscoatings, etc., should be of light colors. The latter should be varnished so that it can be easily washed and cleaned. On the ground of health, wood carpeting, or a waxed, or stained and varnished wood floor, is doubtless the best. Such a floor is non- absorbent, and can be wiped clean every day Rugs can be placed around, on which to step to relieve one from the unpleasant sensa- tion of stepping on a cold floor, and are easily taken out and cleaned. Mattings make very desirable floor coverings for bedrooms. They are free from dust, can be easily cleaned, and will wear for several years. They should be taken up, the floor scrubbed, and the matting .cleaned at least twice a year. In carpets, light colors and small fig- ures make the most desirable patterns for bedrooms. One advant- age to a wholly carpeted floor is that the carpet tends to keep out draughts, and make the room generally warmer. THE BED. The bedstead should be long enough for a tall person to stretch out in comfortably (say 6^ feet long) for a short bed is extremely un- comfortable It should be easily taken apart, and the springs so ar- ranged that they can be taken out easily and brushed. The bed- stead should not face the window, nor should it be exposed to draughts from the chimney. THE BEDKOOM AND BEDS 701 The feather bed is both enervating and luxurious. It may do for the old and infirm, but is not suited to the young and vigorous. A good hair mattress laid on elastic springs is the best bed. A light mattress of this kind on the woven wire springs, is well exposed to the air, and, hence, the most healthy. Wool mattresses are less ex- pensive than those made of hair, and also not as good. The same can be said of Spanish moss. Oat straw and corn husks make good under beds, and they are cheap and easily renewed. It is an excel- lent idea to have mattresses entirely covered with slips of unbleached calico which can be taken off and washed. Such a cover preserves the tick, and it looks fresh and clean. Soft woolen blankets are the best covering for a bed. In comforters, those made of delaines are best, with wool quilted in. Cotton comforters should be e'xposed to the sun and air fre- quently; they are not so good as those of wool. All bedding, how- ever, should be regularly and frequently aired. Each person in the house should open the window and turn down the bedding before leaving his or her room in the morning. This will give the bed a chance to air before it is made up — a point of much more importance than many people imagine. Every bed ought to be well aired every day. Few people realize the amount of effete and poisonous matter thrown off through the pores of the skin by insensible perspiration. It varies, more being thrown off during violent exercise than when at rest, but from 1^ to 4 or 5 lbs. a day are thus thrown out. This, at night, is confined by and partially absorbed in the bed clothes, and the importance of daily opening out and thoroughly airing the bed clothes so that they may be cleared from this poisonous matter should be evident. Some mothers teach children to fold up and put away their night-garments before leaving the bedroom. A much better plan would be to instruct them to spread out those garments so that they would be thoroughly aired. Every 2 or 8 days the bedding should be taken apart and well aired. Pillows also should be shaken up and exposed to the wind. To detect 'dampness in a bed, warm it, and then place a hand* mirror under the coverings. If a mist is observable on the mirror, and the vapor is condensed into drops, it is a sure sign of the pres- ence of damp. No one should ever sleep in a damp bed — it is far better to sit up all night. As sleeping in a damp bed so seriously endangers the health, so simple an expedient as the foregoing for detecting damp- ness is important to know. Spare beds, before being occupied by a guest, or any one else, should be thoroughly aired and dried. Beds left unused for some time, often gather dampness which will be dangerous to the health; therefore open up the bed, air it and dry it, before allowing it to be occupied. In drying it a jug of hot water or warming pan will be useful, or, better yet, lift it off and place before a good fire, turning it several times. Change the sheets also. 702 VENTILATION When bedsteads creak at each movement of the occupant, they can usually be completely silenced by taking out the slats and wrap- ping the ends in soft paper. Insects. — Eternal vigilance is the price of freedom from those insects so troublesome to housekeepers. Every spring the bedstead should be taken to pieces and carefully examined to see that no bugs are present. The best methods of exterminating them are explained under "Insect Pests." Hints. — A well ventilated bedroom at night will cure the diffi- culty which some peojale have in waking up in the morning, when they struggle, yawn, relapse, and find it so hard to wake up. The value of thorough ventilation at night in a bedroom can hardly be over-estimated, and the loss witliout it is always very great. A pail of cold fresh water left uncovered in a bedroom at night will absorb all poisonous gases. See what we say about the absorb- ing power of water elsewhere under " Water."' Emptying Slojjs. — Slop pails which are neglected, soon become foul. An excellent rule, adopted by some, is to scrub them out every wash day with the soapy water left from washing. They should be kept scrupulously clean, and occasionally washed with chloride of lime or other disinfectant. The lids, as well as the pails, should receive attention, and when not in use should be hung above the pail, and not placed on it, thus allowing the pail to ventilate. The one who empties the slops should have a jug of hot water in which a little soda has been dissolved, and 2 dry cloths — 1 for the basins and 1 for the chambers. The chambers should be scalded and dried every day. The cloth used for the purpose should be invariably rinsed well after use, and hung in the air to dry. The slop pails should be scalded after use, wiped dry, and kept where they can be well aired. VENTILATION. NLY within the last few years has the paramou-nt importance of pure air been understood. The effect of imjaure air on an- imals is at once apparent. For years the more delicate an- imals in the British Zoological gardens died quickly, it was supposed because of the cold climate. Their cells were then carefully warmed, and to every one's surj)rise the mortality was even greater than before. At last the cells were well ventilated, and the excessive mortality either ceased, or greatly diminished. There are 2 objects in ventilation: (1) to get rid of .the carbonic acid gas exhaled from the lungs, which is poisonous; and, (2) to furnish them an abundance of life=supporting oxygen. To be kept in full health and vigor each adult individual requires 3,000 cubic feet of fresh air every hour. A simple test for the presence of car- bonic acid gas is given below, in discussing the purity of air. The thing to be aimed at is to change the air steadily without creating a draft, for drafts will give rise to colds, rheumatism, etc., but far more complaints are caused by insufficient than by over ventilation. VENTILATION 708 The attempt to make our houses as nearly air tight as possible in winter, by the use of double windows and other devices, is a suicidal policy unless ample provision is made for ventilation in other ways. It makes the inmates delicate and susceptible to the slightest change. They would be far healthier living as our ancestors did in an old log hut. The quality of the air we breathe is quite as important as that of the food we eat. A great deal more attention ought to be given to this matter of ventilation than has been done in the past. In building new houses it should be carefully 'planned for; for the ventilation of old houses we can only ofPer a few hints. A fire in an open fireplace is a fairly good ventilator, and in dwelling rooms, and especially in bedroomSj the fireplace should always be left unclosed, and the flue or damper open for ventilation. A ready way to ventilate a room is to fasten a neat strip of wood an inch or two wide to the window sill, and ex- tending clear across the window. Fasten a piece of " weather=strii3 " on top of this strip, so that it will form an air tight joint with the lower sash. In this way the lower sash can be raised 1 or 2 inches without letting in any air at the bottom of the window, but an ojpen- ing will be formed at the top between the 2 window sashes through which a current of fresh air will flow. If a piece of wood or tin be attached to the top of the upper sash, slo]Ding upwards, the current will be directed toward the ceiling, whence it will diffuse itself through the room. To ventilate a room do not rely on getting the air from halls or other rooms, but introduce it directly from the outside. A ready way to ventilate rooms^which are much occupied, is to open the windows during the meal time, and before they are needed again they can be rewarmed. The improvement in the air will be very noticeable. Have the bedroom well ventilated always, and if no other provi- sion is made leave the window down 2 or o inches at the top. Place the bed where the draft will not strike it, and if there is more than one window, open the one the farthest from the bed. If necessary, the curtains may be drawn to prevent the draft from striking the bed. More air will be needed when several people occupy the same apart- ment than when there is only one. If in the morning the room smells close to any one who steps into it from the fresh outside air, it is a good practical test that the ventilation is insufiicient; but if no smell is perceptible the ventilation is good. On completing the morning ablutions throw the window wide open and leave it so, to thoroughly ventilate the room. Importance of Sunlight. — Another important matter is to admit the sunlight, floods of it, into all the rooms of the house if possible. Even if it fades the carpets, a little of that is better than to shut it out and have the cheeks of the children fade. An abundance of fresh air and sunlight will save many a doctor's bill, and what is vastly more important, they will preserve the health of the family. Cooling the Air. — In hot weather wetting a cloth and hanging it in the window over the blind will cool and freshen the air greatly — 704 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS almost as much as a shower. A large sponge hung in a room and kept continually wet will also cool the air, either in the day or night. Impurities in the Air. — The principal contaminations of air are the presence of poisonous gases due to sewers, etc., and the presence of carbonic acid gas in excess. Wholesome air does not contain above 5 volumes of carbonic acid in 10,000; as the proportion increases the quality of the air deteriorates, until it becomes positive- ly poisonous. Tests. — The simplest method of testing the amount of carbonic acid present in the air is by using lime=water. This can be obtained of any druggist, but should be freshly made. When this lime=water is shaken up in a bottle of air containing carbonic acid, the acid combines with the lime, forming an insoluble powder of carbonate of lime, and when this is in sufficient quantity it makes the water turbid or milky, so that it can be recognized by the eye. The test is made by having a series of bottles of various sizes, filling them with the air to be tested, placing a large teaspoon of the lime= water in each one, corking tightly, and then shaking them vigorously for 3 or 4 minutes, so that all the air in the bottle shall be brought in contact with the lime-water, and all the carbonic acid taken up by the lime. In bottles of large size the fluid will become dense, while in those of small size it will remain clear. If a 10 oz. bottle thus shaken becomes turbid it indicates the presence of more than 6 vol- umes of carbonic acid per 10,000 of air; while turbidity in an 8 oz. bottle indicates more than 8 volumes; in a 6 oz. bottle more than 11 volumes; and in a 4 oz. bottle more than 15 volumes. Anything over 5 volumes should be corrected. There is no test paper which can be made practically useful to indicate the quantity of carbonic acid in the air. Pure air is so very essential to health that impure air should never be breathed when possible to avoid it. Seicer gas is usually manifested by its peculiar cabbage like odor. The following is, however, a ready test for it: Saturate un- glazed or blotting paper with a solution made of 1 oz. pure acetate of lead, in ^ pint of rain water; let it partially dry and then expose it in the room suspected of containing sewer gas. The test paper will be blackened if any considerable quantity is present. Never neglect escaping sewer gas; if present, find the leak and stop it at once. For a test for leaking sewer pipes see " Sinks and Drains." DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS. HE importance and value of disinfection is becoming more apparent every year, and all housekeepers should know something about the various articles employed for this |)ur- pose, their value, and the uses to which they are adapted. We mention below the more important ones and explain their different merits. It should be remembered, however, that &\JS) DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 705 nothing will take the place of those best of all disinfectants, sunlight, fresh air, soap and water, and perfect cleanliness. Popularly the word disinfectant is used in a very loose way. Any articles which destroy bad odors, or which arrest decomposition or putrefaction are generally called disinfectants, and are often ignorantly used to des- troy the disease germs of small-pox, cholera, etc. It should be understood that many valuable deodorizers and antiseptics are utter- ly valueless for destroying disease germs. Strictly speaking, disiit- fectants are agents which destroy the germs of communicable diseas- es, such as cholera, smalhpox, etc. Antiseptics are drugs which des- troy low forms of life, like the bacteria which cause decomposition. Deodorizers or deodorants are agents which destroy disagreeable smells merely. Among the best of the true disinfectants are fire; boiling water; steam (it should have at least 25 lbs. pressure); a solution of chloride of lime; bichloride of mecury (corrosive sublimate); a solution of chlorinated soda ( Labarraque's solution). Others which are useful where spores are absent are dry heat (as high as 240° P.); chloride of zinc; sulphate of copper; carbolic acid. Remember in using any disinfectant that the time of exposure to its action is important, so allow it time to work. HEAT AND STEAM — Heat is a powerful disinfectant. Fire, of course, destroys all germs, and articles of small value are often best burned when soiled with infectious material. Steam unconfined is the same as boiling water (212°), but under pressure it is much higher, being 240° P. at 25 lbs. pressure, and 250° at 80 lbs. pres- sure. Exposure for 80 minutes to steam at 25 lbs. pressure will des- troy all known germs. Dry heat penetrates slowly into bulky articles such as bedding, matresses, etc. If spores are present, heat enough to injure woolen fabrics is needed to kill them ; if they are absent, a 2 hours exposure to a dry heat of 280° P. is effectual. A suitable oven is needed. Steam is suitable for articles like blankets, carpets, clothing, etc., which will not bear boiling, but it is not suited for articles like leather, etc., which are injured by moisture. Boiling in ivater for ^ hour will destroy the vitality of all known disease germs. It is therefore the best means for disinfecting all articles which can be thus treated, such as bed-clothes, towels, the body clothing of the sick, etc. If there are no facilities for treating articles with boiling water in the sickroom, they may with safety be removed to another part of the house for this treatment if they are first carefully enveloped in a towel or sheet, as the case may require, which has been thoroughly soaked with carbolic acid solution. Thus enveloped, they should be put in the water, and boiled for ^ hour. CARBOLIC ACID.— This is one of the best known disinfectants. It is made from coahtar. It is really a solid, but the least addition of water liquifies it. The genuine acid is easily recognized by its powerful and characteristic odor. Por disinfecting cellars, sewers, sinks, water=closets, etc., use 1 oz. of the acid to a gallon of water. For steeping clothes and general disinfecting purposes it is excellent. 15 706 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS For such articles 1 part in 20 of water will answer. Dr. Koch gives it the first place for disinfecting clothing, excreta, etc., in cholera. A 1% or 2% solution is effective for many germs. Carbolic acid soap is well adapted for disinfecting the hands. The only objections to carbolic acid are that its odor is not very j)leasant, and that it is a deadly poison. It is also somewhat more expensive than some of the other disinfectants. Carbolic acid when combined with water and boiled, evaporates with the steam in a constant ratio, the steam con- taining the same relative quantity of the acid as the water from which it evaporates. Very few disinfectants do this. CHARCOAL. — This is useful within limits. It absorbs impure gases, and also oxygen which decomposes them. It is not volatile and cannot go to the smells — they must come to it — and it cannot penetrate every nook and corner as a good disinfectant should do. It can only absorb a limited amount of gas, and after a time it must be removed and fresh supplied; or it may be purified by heating in an oven. It preserves meat and poultry, makes a good tooth-powder, is given for indigestion, and is also used as a poultice for foul ulcers. It is a useful article to keep in the house. CHLORIDE OF LIME {also called Bleaching Poivder) — This is one of the cheapest and best disinfectants. For urinals, drains, closets, etc., there is nothing better. The right strength for use in sinks, closets, etc., is 1 lb. to a gallon of water. For steeping linen, 1 oz. to the gallon is strong enough, and even in this weak solution the linen must not be left long. It decomposes on coming in contact with organic matter, and as a disinfectant it acts by giving off chlor- ine gas, which destroys all known germs. The smell is not pleasant, although many people do not dislike it. The powder is also scat- tered about freely where required in yards, etc., but as the odor will ruin the flavor of foods it must be used cautiously about the house, especially in the cellar, larder, etc., where food is stored. A mixture of 1 part chloride of lime with 8 parts dry sand answers well for cess- pools,, etc. To make an effective disinfectant it should be of the best quality. When purchasing, accept only that which is enclosed in glass bottles, as, when packed in paper or wooden boxes it is liable to have so deteriorated as to be worthless for disinfecting purposes. Dissolved in water (8 oz. to 1 gal.) it may be used in disinfecting discharges in contagious diseases, especially in typhoid fever and cholera; 1 quart should be mixed with each discharge (it will be best to put it in the vessel before it receives the discharges); after 80 minutes, disinfection is completed, and the contents may be thrown into the water=closet; the expectorations of those sick with consump- tion may be discharged into a cup half filled with this, or with a carbolic acid solution. A home-made chloride of lime may be prepared by dissolving a bushel of salt in a barrel of water; then slack a barrel of lime with this salt water — it should be thick enough to form a kind of paste. This will answer for disinfecting purposes about as well as that bought at the stores, and may be used freely about cellars, sinks, outhouses, etc. DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 707 CHLORIDE OF ZINC— This is the basis of Burnette^s Disin- fecfiitg Fluid. It is poisonous, but is a well-known disinfectant and deodorizer. It is not expensive. The strength for general use is about a wineglassful to 2^ quarts of water. It is useful for chamber utensils, water= closets, etc. Its power for destroying disease germs has been much overestimated, although it has been extensively used in Europe and America. It is a valuable antiseptic and deodorizer. CONDY'S FLUID — This is an old disinfectant which has been on the market for years. There are 2 kinds, the crimson and the green. The crimson is best. It needs to be used in large quantities alid is somewhat expensive. It stains linen, but the stains may be removed by steeping the articles, before they get dry, in water con- taining 1 oz. of sorrel to the pint. It is made from permanganate of potassium. By dissolving 1 oz. of permanganate of potassium in 1 quart of water, a stronger disinfectant is obtained at a less price. It is a powerful oxidizing agent, and is used in fevers, etc, CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE (called also Perchloride or Mercury and Mercuric Chloride). — This is a most valuable disinfectant, the greatest objection to its use being that it is extremely poisonous. It decomposes on contact with tin, copper, or lead. It is colorless and odorless, and if kept on hand it should be plainly labeled, and it will be a good plan to color it by adding indigo or analine blue. It co- agulates albuminous materials, which somewhat interferes with its value as a disinfectant. The concentrated solution has 4 oz. mercury to 1 gallon of water. It has much potency at 1 part sublimate to 500 parts water, or even at 4000. parts water. An excellent solution for general use is \ lb. corrosive sublimate and 1 lb. sulphate of copper to one gallon of water. This we will call " Solution 1." For excremental discharges put 1 lb, {i. e., 2 cups) of "Solution 1" in a gallon of water, and use 1 quart of this for each discharge, putting it in the vessel before the discharge takes place, and letting it stand 2 hours before emptying. Privy vaults which contain so much material, believed to be infected with the germs of typhoid fever or cholera, that the disinfection by chloride ef lime would be impracticable, may be disinfected by usino- 1 oz. of sublimate to 1 gallon of water, which will disinfect 4 gallons of infected excremental matter. The time of contact is important, so let it act for 2 or 3 hours. It is an antiseptic at 1 part sublimate to 15,000 parts water. Cor- rosive sublimate if allowed, to come in contact with lead pipes will make them brittle and worthless. It should be kept in glass or glazed vessels. SANITAS. — This is a disinfectant made by the action of supers heated steam on turpentine. It is largely used on board ship and is popular on account of its pleasant odor. It is not very powerful, and must be used in large quantities. 708 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS SOLUTION OF CHLORINATED SODA.— This to be effective should contain at least 3 per cent, of available chlorine. When ex- posed to the air it evolves chlorine, to which circumstance its special value is due. It is sometimes spoken of as Ldharraque's solution. If one part of the solution of chlorinated soda is added to 5 parts water it makes a standard solution, and may be. used for the same purposes as chloride of lime; its odor is somewhat jaleasanter al- though it is more expensive. It may be used to cleanse portions of the body soiled with discharges of those sick with contagious dis- eases, or the hands of attendants similarly soiled. It does not keep well, so it should be fresh when used. SULPHATE OF COPPER (also called Blue Vitriol) .—This is not so good a disinfectant as bichloride of mercury, but it is a better deodorant. A 10 per cent, solution is valuable for destroying micro= organisms where sj:)ores are absent. .SULPHATE OF IRON {or Green Co^jperas) . — The right strength for ordinary purposes is 1 lb. to a gallon of water. A mix- ture of sulphate of iron and sulphate of zinc is sold under the name of Larnande's Mixture. Strictly speaking, sulphate of iron is not a disinfectant as it will not destroy the vitality of disease germs, but it is a valuable antiseptic and arrests putrefactive decomposition. It is cheap and is valuable for sinks, drains, closets, etc. Copperas is not an effective remedy against the spread of contagious diseases, like true disinfectants, its most valuable applications being those already indicated. SULPHATE OF ZINC — This is commonly called wMte vitriol, and is obtained by dissolving zinc in dilute sulphuric acid. For purposes of disinfection dissolvie 1^ lbs, of the sulphate of zinc and | lb. of common salt in 6 gallons of water. Useful for water- closets, etc. SULPHUROUS ACID GAS (also called Sulphur Dioxide). - This is a useful disinfectant and is always available. It is made by burning sulphur. Its disinfecting power is much increased by the presence of moisture. A room or a house may be filled with the gas BO that every article is subject to its influence. It escapes more readily than is generally supposed, through every crack and crevice, and infectious material inclosed in bundles, or protected by the folds of blankets, etc., may escape disinfection unless care is taken. It quickly rusts brass and iron work and tarnishes picture frames, sil- verware, etc., but this can be guarded against by removing them from the room. It is valuable for disinfecting after smallpox, scarlet fever, yellow fever, diphtheria, etc. THYMOL. — This is a comparatively new antiseptic obtained from the juice of several aromatic plants, and its odor is pleasant. It is sold in crystals which are freely soluble in water, or the spirits of thymol may be bought. It is very active, may be used for the same disinfectant purposes as carbolic acid, and is quite as effective, and its pleasant odor commends it. Use about 1 teaspoon of the spirits of thymol to 2 quarts of water. DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZEES 709 A SATURATED SOLUTION OF CHLORIDE OF LEAD This makes an excellent antiseptic and deodorant, and may easily be pre- pared as follows: Dissolve ^ drachm of nitrate of lead in 1 pint of boiling water; also dissolve 2 drachms of common salt in a pail of cold water; when dissolved, mix the 2 together; when settled, a pail of clear fluid will remain. It is without smell, and may be used to disinfect water-closets, heaps of refuse, drains, sinks, decaying and offensive objects, etc.; the fetid atmosphere in a room may be sweet- ened at once by hanging up cloths saturated with the solution. If used hot the mixture is more active. It is quite cheap, as a number of barrels of the solution may be prepared from a single pound of the nitrate. Privies, Yards, Etc. — Eckstein, after exten^ve experiments, found that the most effective disinfectant for urinals, privies, etc., was chloride of lime (bleaching powder). Its odor is unpleasant to many, and for common use ( when contagious diseases are not pres- ent) copperas or carbolic acid answer well. Cellars, yards, stables, gutters, privies, cesspools, water-closets, drains, sewers, etc., should be frequently and liberally treated with a chloride of lime or copperas (sulphate of iron) solution. Another good solution for this purpose is the chloride of lead previously mentioned. After contagious dis- eases like typhoid fever, cholera, etc., use chloride of lime or bichlo- ride of mercury, as at such times the most powerful disinfectants should be used. The best ivay to disinfect a room after any contagious disease, is to burn sulphur. Mix equal quantities of sulphur and charcoal, and paste strips of paper over all keyholes and cracks about the doors, windows, etc. Put a dish=pan on the floor, a plate in the pan, and on this set a kettle containing the sulphur mixture. Use about 6 lbs. for a room 12x15 feet, and 10 feet high, and in that ratio for other sized rooms. If too little sulphur is used it will do no good. Then fill the pan half full of water, pour about 3 oz. of alcohol over the sulphur, set fire to it, and get out of the room at once, closing the door tightly. Leave it closed 24 hours; the burning sulphur gene- rates sulphurous acid gas, which is a powerful disinfectant. Then open the room and air it 24 hours, and the windows should be left open as much as possible for a week or two. It will be best to re- paint the woodwork and repaper or calcimine the walls. Wash the woodwork of furniture, etc., with a 2 per cent, solution of chloride of lime or a 5 per cent, solution of carbolic acid. If the carpet was left on the floor during the illness it should re- main until after the fumigation; then take it up, beat it, and leave it out of doors for a week or two. Those who wish to be on the safe side can repeat the fumigation a second time. For disinfecting clothing, bedding, etc., during an attack of a contagious disease, or after recovery, the following suggestions are offered: Articles of little value should be destroyed by fire. All clothing, bedding, etc., which can be boiled in water should be so treated for 1 hour. Other articles may be immersed in a solution of 2 ounces(=l wineglass) of corrosive sublimate "Solution 1" (see 710 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZEKS corrosive sublimate) in 1 gallon of water, which does not injure cloth, Garments of wool, silk, etc., which would be injured by immersion in boiling water or a disinfecting solution, may be exposed to dry heat at a temperature of 230'' F. for 2 hours, or exposed to the fumes of steam under pressure as previously explained. The ticking of beds and pillows should be dipped in the bichloride of mercury solution and then thoroughly boiled. All straw, husk, or excelsior filling should be burned. A filling of hair or feathers should be thoroughly baked in an oven or destroyed by fire. Articles exposed to dry heat or steam should be spread out so that all parts can be readily penetra- ted. Articles of wood, leather, porcelain or metal may be washed several times in a 5% solution of carbolic acid, or a 2% solution of chloride of lime, • The hands and general surface of the body of the attendants and of convalescents may be washed with Labarraque solution, or with a 2% solution of carbolic acid. The excreta or discharges from the pa- tient should be treated with 1 quart of a 5% solution of chloride of lime or a 5% solution of carbolic acid, or use corrosive sublimate, " Solution 1 " in the cases and as explained in our previous section on that disinfectant. Articles which are to be disinfected by fire or boiling outside of the room should be wrapped in a sheet soaked with a solution of carbolic acid and thus conveyed to the place of disin- fection. During an illness, or on recovery, the body of a patient may be sponged ( with the physician's approval ) with' a solution of 1 part chlorinated soda in 20 parts water, which will aid in preventing the escape from the body of infectious material. It will be a good idea to daily wipe off all surfaces (furniture, walls and floor) with a cloth moistened with a 2% solution of chloride of lime or a 5% solution of carbolic acid. DEODORIZERS. These should not be confounded with disinfectants, but in the minds of many people the difference is not clearly understood. De- odorizers merely mask odors by using perfumes, etc., but they do not destroy the poisonous efSuvia and disease germs. Unpleasant odors may be masked by burning sugar, resin or vinegar. Every house- wife has seen rags and paper burned for this purpose. Carbolic acid sprinkled about, or exposed in saucers or open vessels, acts as both deodorizer and disinfectant, and so does the saturated solution of chloride of lead. "Florida Water" is refreshing in a sickroom, but it has no very active disinfecting properties. Pinol, sprayed through an atomizer, is a fair aerial disinfectant, having an agreeable odor. The fumes of newly roasted coffee is one of the best things with which to mask unpleasant odors. Even musk, asafcetida and castor- eum, may be overcome with it. Place a few ounces of whole coffee in an iron pan over the fire, or on a shovel of coals, and while the fumes are rising carry it around the room; it is effectual. A good deodorizer f 07' a sickroom is vinegar boiled with myrrh; sprinkle it on the floor and furniture. Another is to place in a saucer FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 711 a little coffee freshly ground; put a piece of camphor gum in the cen- ter and set fire to it, letting both coffee and camphor burn together. This is both cheaper and better than pastiles. FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS. WOOD FLOORS. |AINTS like yellow ochre, sienna, Venetian or Indian red, which contain mineral colors alone, without any white lead, are the best to use on floors, and the common practice of paint- ing kitchen floors with yellow ochre, raw Umber or sienna is a very wise one. Although they have little body, as compared with white lead paints, and several coats are needed, such paints make an excellent and durable covering. Any color containing white lead is injurious to wood floors, making them softer and more quickly worn away. Any varnish made by drying lead salts, when applied to a wood floor is nearly as injurious as lead paint. Cleaning White Board Floors. — To keep boards white it is necessary to wash them properly. Very often boards which are un- pleasantly dark have had a good deal of work bestowed on them, but it has not been applied right. The method adopted is quite as im- portant as the material used for scrubbing boards. It is not only necessary to scrub the dirt out of the wood, but it is quite as impor- tant to remove the dirt thus loosened; and for this, plenty of clean water is required. To loosen the dirt and then rub it in again by wiping with a nearly dry cloth, is a great waste of effort. Flannel is best to use because it takes up the dirt, which cotton does not. Re- member, then, that to rinse thoroughly, and 2 or 8 times if necessary, is, if anything, even more important than to scrub well. The great secret of floor washing is to do a little at a time, change the water often, and use plenty of it; then dry the floor with a flannel clothe Sweep the floor, of course, before washing it. Removing Stains. — The following, if applied as directed, will take out stains: Take some clean, sifted, white or silver sand, and scatter it on the floor. Dissolve 1 lb. of potash in 1 pint of water, and sprinkle the sand with the solution. Have a pail of very hot water, and well scrub the boards lengthwise with a hard brush, and use the best mottled soap. Change the water frequently. The frequent nse of soa/p on wood floors, or any articles of wood, darkens them and spoils their color. A mixture of one part newly slacked lime, and 3 parts common white sand, is cheaper and much better than soap. It will remove grease, whiten the boards, and de- stroy all insects. Rinse well with clean water afterwards. In wash- ing boards never rub crossways, but always up and down with the grain. Sand will roughen boards on which it is used unless it is very fine. For this reasoning loood ashes sifted through a cheese-cloth 712 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS bag is better. Soda keeps wood whiter than soap, and is therefore better to use as a rule. Floors which are in bad condition may be washed with the fol- lowing: Put into a sauce-pan 1 lb. soft soap, 1 lb. of fuller's earth, 1 lb. of soda, and 2 quarts of water. Boil all down together to ^ the quantity. Scrub well with it, and rinse thoroughly after scrubbing. To Clean and Restore Wood Floors. — The following will be found useful in cleaning and restoring color to wooden floors: Allow 1 part calcinated soda to stand | hour in 1 part slacked lime; then add 15 parts water, and boil. Spread the solution thus obtained up- on the floor with a rag, and after drying, rub with a hard brush and fine sand and water. A solution of 1 part concentrated sulphuric acid and 8 parts water will enliven the wood after the first applica- tion. When dry, wash the floor, and wax it if desired. For Scrubbing White Floors, one of the best sands (possibly the best) is to heat marble chippings red hot in the fire; then let them cool and pound them very fine. Unpainted dining-room floors, etc., can be freshened and clean- ed nicely by rubbing with fine dry sand, or with sawdust, which is better, as described further on for using sawdust. A smooth hard'ivood dining-room floor may be kept in condi- tion by rubbing or dusting it every day with a woolen cloth; if it is fastened to a long handle like a mop, it will be easier, as it will save stooping. Lint is very apt to be left by linen or cotton cloths. Then give it a dry sawdust rub once a week. Hot grease spilled on a wood floor should have cold water thrown on it at once, to harden it and prevent its striking into the wood. For musty floors, take an old broom and scrub on a strong hot solution of chloride of lime. First scrub them clean, however, be- fore applying the solution. Marks of whitewash can be removed by scrubbing well with soap and water. For grease or oil stains take \ lb. fuller's earth and \ lb. pearl- ash, and make a paste with about 1 quart boiling water; while hot, spread it on the greased surface, allowing it to remain 10 or 15 hours or more. Then scour oft' with clean water, using sand if necessary. If the grease stains are very numerous, and the floor very dirty, it may be spread all over the floor, and left on 24 hours before washing off. Or, old grease stains may be softened by soaking them with tur- pentine, and then scraped off. Ink spots on floors may be removed by scouring them well with sand wet with water, and a little oil of vitriol added. Then rinse them with strong saleratus water, or pearlash water. Ink stains may be removed from unpainted boards or wood by using either strong vinegar or salts of lemon. Or, dissolve some oxalic acid in ^ pint of hot water; apply with a rag, tied to a stick; wash oft' afterwards with soda, soap and water. This will remove many other stains also. A paste of damp chloride of lime will remove ink stains from boards- FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 713 Soot stains on a wooden floor or boards can be removed by washing the spot in sulphuric acid and water. To Stop Cracks in Floors. — (1) Make a paste of 6 quarts of water, 2 lbs. of flour, and 2 tablespoons of alum; boil and mix thor- oughly, and then soak newspapers thoroughly in the paste until it is all about the consistency of putty. Force it into the cracks with a suitable knife. It will harden nicely, and be neat and permanent. (2) Dissolve 1 part glue in 16 parts water, and when almost cool stir in a sufficient quantity of sawdust and prepared chalk. (3) Mix plaster of Paris to a paste with water in which glue has been dis- solved, as that prevents it from cracking and falling between the boards. It can be colored to match the boards if liked. Mix but a little at a time, and keep it warm while using. (4) Use putty. Waxed Floors. — Never use water on waxed floors. Before wax- ing, if there are any spots remove them with turpentine or benzine; then wipe perfectly clean with a dry cloth, and apply the prepara- tion of wax, putting on very little, or else it will be sticky. Apply it with a flannel cloth and then rub until it shines like varnish, rubbing with rough flannel or Brussels carpet. With reasonable usage it should then last several months. Any little spot which be- comes dim should be rubbed up with flannel. Well polished loax floors can be rubbed off every morning with a large flannel cloth, which is soaked in kerosene oil every 10 days or 2 weeks. Shake the cloth free from dust, and using a stubby broom or scrubbing brush, rub rapidly up and down with the grain — not across it; the floor will soon assume a polished appearance which dirt and footprints do not easily deface. Waxed floors which seem sticky and dirty after many waxings and long use should be cleaned with turpentine, but never use water on a ivaxed floor. Stained floors should be dusted every day, and if desired the preparation of beeswax and turpentine (given further on) can be ap- plied to them, and then they should be treated like any waxed floor. Cleaning with Sawdust. — If stained or painted floors are washed with water the gloss will soon be injured, besides which more or less moisture is apt to soak in, to their further detriment. It is better to scrub them with dry sawdust. Use that which is dry and clean. Scatter it over a space about a yard square, and then scrub it with a new, stiff scrubbing brush, the same as would be done with water. Use more sawdust and extra rubbing for spots unusually soiled. When the whole floor is gone over, sweep up and burn the sawdust, and then dust the floor before laying down mats or rugs, Unpainted or even varnished floors may be treated the same way to advantage. For Waxing Floors. — Melt 8 oz. beeswax in 1 quart turpentine; as the latter is very inflammable it must be warmed over a slow fire, free from blaze. Apply with clean flannel; then polish with another dry and clean piece. A Wax Floor Polish. — Take 12| lbs. yellow wax, rasped, and 6 lbs. pearlash, and boil them in water. Stir well, and when efferves- 714 FLOOES AND FLOOE COVEEINGS cence ceases, add 6 lbs. dry yellow ochre; then pour all into a tin. For use, add 5 pints boiling water; stir well, and apply while hot; polish afterwards with a large brush, and wipe with a coarse woolen cloth. — " Decorator and Furnisher.'''' A Hard Wood Polish. — Take 1 pint of turpentine, 5 oz. pow- dered resin, and 24 oz. yellow beeswax. Put them in a pan, set them in a larger pan of hot water, and melt, stirring well till thoroughly mixed. Manage carefully as they are very inflammable. Let it get cold, and if thicker than cream thin down with turpentine. Apply it with a woolen cloth (having the floor clean and dry) and then rub hard with a polishing brush. Finish with soft green baize. A Floor Vawiish. — Take -^ lb. of pure white borate of man- ganese finely powdered, and add it little by little to a pan containing 2^ lbs. of linseed oil; it must be well stirred and raised to a temper- ature of 860° Fahr. Heat 25 lbs. of linseed oil in a boiler till ebullition takes place; then add it to the first liquid, increase the heat, and allow it to boil for 20 minutes. Eemove from the fire, and filter the solution through a piece of calico. The varnish is then ready for use; 2 coats may be applied. Add a final coat of shellac varnish if a brilliant polish is desired. Make ^ the quantity the same way. A black varnish for ivood may be prepared by taking good var- nish and mixing in enough itory black to color it; lay on a thin even coat. Clean it any time by wiping with a woolen cloth dipped in warm water. Stains for Floors. — A kitchen floor may be stained by taking a lye made from wood ashes and adding enough copperas to give it an oak shade; apply with a brush, and when dry varnish the floor. Or oil the floor with boiled linseed oil, applied with a paint brush; when dry, varnish it. To clean such a floor is much easier than a white one. A general stain for floors, the color of which can be varied at will, can be prepared as follows: Take 2 parts linseed oil (unboiled) and mix in 1 part turpentine; add a little Japan dryer. This is the foundation, to which add any of the pigments hereafter given to pro- duce the color desired. Stir in enough of the selected pigment to make the whole about as thick as syrup; set it over a moderate fire and bring it to a boil; then, for each quart of the mixture take a lump of yellow beeswax the size of a walnut, and, having melted it, stir it in well; then take from the fire; let it cool 10 minutes, and thin it till it runs freely, with turpentine. Lay it on with a good^sized brush, making the strokes the way the grain runs, and apply it freely. When it is thoroughly dry, varnish the floor, adding a gill of unboiled linseed oil to the quart of varnish. Polish afterwards at any time with turpentine and beeswax mixed. A little over a quart of the above mixture will be needed for each 16 square yards of floor. The process is neither difiicult nor expensive, and any lady can apply it, with a little practice. The great secret of staining is to properly thin the stain and apply it evenly with a brush. Try a color on a piece of plain board FLOOES AND FLOOR COVERINGS 715 before using it, to make sure the shade is right. Soft woods take a deeper color than hard. Of the pigments which may be used to color the above mixture, Vandyke brown or burnt umber will make a black wahiid stain. Burnt sienna makes an almost perfect mahog- any stain if properly thinned. For cher-ry, combine red oxide of lead and burnt sienna. Raw umber makes a good stain for floors, especially for white pine. Raw sienna makes a yellow stain. In fact the shades can be combined and varied at pleasure, and several colors can be applied to a single floor, working out figures and pretty designs if desired. Sizing for Stained Flooi's. — Take | quart of cold water and 1 lb. size, and heat gently till it melts. Do not apply till the stain is fully dry; then use a flat brush to lay it on with. Add a little warm water if it froths while being applied. Do not cover with varnish till fully dry. If you varnish it use the best, and lay it on with a flat brush, freely and evenly. Do not step on it then till it is hard. Wipe a varnished floor about once a week with a soft cloth wrung out of lukewarm water. To Ehonize Wood Floors. — In 1 quart of water boil 1 lb. log- wood chips until it is colored well. Apply this evenly, giving a sec- ond coat to close textured boards. Let it dry, and then apply a strong solution of sulphate of iron in water. A fine black results which can be sized and then waxed or varnished. Enameling Floors. — This is done by applying several coats of paint, and rubbing the floor down with fine glass paper between each coat. It is best done by a skilled workman. Oiled Floors. — Heat boiled linseed oil boiling hot; have the floor very clean, and then, using an old paint brush, apply the oil, keej)ing it hot all the time It may be colored if desired; 1 table- spoon of burnt umber to the quart of oil darkens it, while the same quantity of yellow ochre will make it light. A bad floor will re- quire 2 coats; even a very rough floor will be greatly benefited by thus oiling it. It will be often enough, in most families, to oil a floor twice a year. It can be kept clean by dusting daily, and wip- ing once a week with a flannel cloth wrung out of warm water. Avoid using soap on it. It may be oil polished by rubbing the oil in with a rubber, and the more it is rubbed the better it will look. A Yclloiv Paint for Floors can be made by dissolving 2 oz. of glue in 2 quarts of soft water; then lift it from the fire and stir in 2 lbs. of yellow ochre; have the floor clean and dry and apply at once. When dry, lay on a thin coat of boiled linseed oil. Do not walk on it till thoroughly dry. Hall Floors. — Hardwood or tiles make the best hall floor. Upon this a strip of carpet or a rug should be laid, and if necessary fastened in place with brass rings. If the floor is of natural wood, lightly cover it at first with linseed oil, and have it rubbed smooth and cleaned when dry; then apply a coat of shellac varnish, or polish once a month with beeswax and turpentine. If soft pine is used it will be best to apply several coats of colored varnish. 716 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS To Keep Ground Floors Dry. — Spread over the ground, when building, a layer of coal dust crushed fine. Cover it with a layer of sand of equal thickness. On top of this lay the floor. The coal dust absorbs the moisture of the ground, while the sand and floor are kept dry. CARPETS. To Sweep. — For ingrain and short pile carpets scatter tea=leaves (which have first been rinsed in clean water, to prevent their staining, and are then drained well so that they are damp, not wet) over the carpet; rub them in with the broom first, and then sweep as usual. This will prevent dust and brighten the colors, but the lightest col- ored carpets may be stained slightly with the tea^leaves; they are best therefore on dark=colored carpets. Old tea=leaves should be kept for this purpose in a pot set apart for them. Squeeze the water out thoroughly with the hand before using them. As a substitute for the tea4eaves, newspapers are sometimes used; put them in water till soft; squeeze dry, and tear up. Another way is to throw on damp salt and then sweep thoroughly; or, sweep first, and then scatter on coarse salt, or dampened Indian meal, and sweep again; or after sweeping put a cup of coarse salt in a large basin of water, and go over the carpet with a clean cloth wet in it. Either of these methods will brighten the colors wonderfully. Wiping the carpet thoroughly, after sweeping, with a damp flan- nel cloth wrung out of warm soapsuds, or water containing ammonia or borax, is also an excellent way to keep it bright. Bran is a good thing to sweep with to keep down the dust. Sweep with a short, sharp stroke, without scattering the dust. No other plan is so good as burning the dirt. Thick-piled carpets, like Axminster and Turkey^ should be swept the way of the pile always. In this way they can be kept clean for years, but if swept any other way the dust will enter the carpet and soon spoil it. Any carpet swept against the grain soon looks rough and battered. Velvet pile carpets are best swept by using firmly a hard whisk brush, made of cocoanut fiber; once a week wipe them over with a chamois leather dampened with water containing ammonia. Another plan, enthusiastically advocated by some housekeepers, is to do away with the use of brooms almost altogether. Instead of sweeping they go over the carpet each week with a sponge wet in a pail of warm water containing a little ammonia, and wipe carefully about 2 square feet of surface at a time. The daily litter they clean up with a carpet sweeper. Carpets thus treated last longer and look better, and the dust in the room will be lessened f at least; it is bet- ter than a bi-weekly sweeping. To Beat Carpets. — All carpets or rugs should be well beaten, and rubbed with a broom, before being cleaned. To beat properly, hang them on a stout line, wrong side out. The sticks used should be pliable, with cloth in the form of a knot at the end to prevent FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 717 tearing the carpet. After well beating the wrong side, turn and beat the other in the same way. After the floor has been washed and be- come thoroughly dry, the carpet can be relaid and then cleaned. To Clean Carpets with Bullock^s Gall. — Use 1 pint to 3 gallons of water, and add 5 oz. pearlash; mix well. With a brush scrub about 1 square yard of the carpet at a time, as quickly and carefully as possible, and then suck up the gall with a flannel or sponge, which should be frequently rinsed in clean cold water; then dry with clean linen or cotton cloths before beginning another square. Thus pro- ceed until the carpet is finished. For carpets which are not very dirty, or which contain delicate colors, this process is adapted, as it will not soil them. Old gall will smell, but by using fresh gall the odor will disappear in a few hours. To Clean Carpets with Soap Liquor. — Cut up a bar of soap and dissolve it over a fire in 2 gal. of water. Put 2 quarts of this dis- solved soap into a pail of warm water, add a little ammonia, and wash 1 square yard at a time as directed for the bullock's gall process. In neither case should the liquid be allowed to soak through to the back of the carpet, but apply and wipe it up quickly. Have the floor per- fectly dry before the carpet is laid, and keep a fire in the room to ex- pedite the drying. Ingrain, tapestry, Brussels and Turkish carpets are all cleaned the same way, and the secret of the best results is in rinsing them thoroughly without letting them become soaked through. Process No. 3. — Another good way is to take 1 lb. of soap, | lb. soda, 1 oz. nitric acid, and 1 gal. water. First melt the soap and soda in an oven; then mix all well in the water. With a clean scrubbing- brush wash the carpet well from seam to seam with this mixture, and rinse it off quickly with clean soft water, using a flannel cloth or sponge. Do only a small piece of the carpet at a time, and rub that dry before doing more. Process No. 4. — Another process for a very dirty carpet is to take 2 gallons of boiling water, 1 oz. of soap, and 1 drachm of soda. Apply with a clean flannel, rub well, and then rinse well with clean hot water. After becoming thoroughly dry the colors are greatly im- proved by rubbing it over with a flannel dipped in a strong solution of ox=gall. A new and excellent process for cleaning carpets, without tak- ing them up, is the following: To 1 quart of warm water add 5 oz. of castile soap, cut fine; let it boil, then add 2 oz. pulverized borax. When cold, add 2 oz. aqua ammonia, ^ oz sulphuric ether, ^ oz. glyc- erine, ^ oz. spirits of wine. Take 2 tablespoons of the mixture and put it in 1 quart of warm water (or use in this proportion) and with a cloth or sponge rub the carpet briskly. It is not necessary to use the liquid very freely, but a large amount of foam or suds is devel- oped, and rubbing this briskly over the carpet seems to be the most effective agency in cleaning it. After a few square feet of the sur- face have been thoroughly rubbed with the foam, dry with a flannel cloth or sponge, rinsing it frequently in clean water, Do not use the 718 FLOOES AND FLOOR COVERINGS liquid too freely, or get the carpet too wet. This application does not injure the most delicate colors, but, on the contrary, revives them, removes grease spots and smears of almost every kind, and restores the dirtiest earpet to almost its original beauty. Besides which it is easily applied. The process is excellent, and has been kept as a se- cret, but we were fortunate enough to secure it. In cities where bituminous coal is used a carpet may be scrub- bed with good effect as regularly as a floor. Sweep the carpet first, and then go over it with a very clean mop or flannel cloth and clean water, with 4 tablespoons of ammonia to the bucketful. Change the water frequently. By leaving the windows open it will soon dry. Removing Grease From Carpets. — (1) Common wheat flour (or buckwheat if it is in the house) is one of the best domestic applica- tions for removing kerosene, or any oil or grease, from a carpet. Sprinkle it on at once and freely; leave 2 or 3 days; sweep it into a dustpan, and apply more, repeating until all trace is gone. It can be removed in this way. (2) Old grease spots may be cut by applying spirits of turpentine and leaving it on several hours; then rub be- tween the hands and it will come away, and the colors will be unin- jured. (8) Lay damp fuller's earth on a grease spot, let it stay sev- eral hours, and then rub gently into the carpet; then wash off with a little ammonia carbonate and the colors will be restored. (4) Make a paste by pouring boiling water on equal parts of fuller's earth and magnesia. Place this while hot on the grease spot; when thoroughly dry, brush off. The grease will be gone. (5) Make a thick paste of fuller's earth with cold rain-water and spread thinly over the greased part of the carpet; let it dry thoroughly, and then brush off with a stiff brush; all traces of the oil will have disappeared. This may be applied to the most delicate fabric. If the first application is not sufficient, apply again. It will do the work. (6) If the stain is re- cent, wash with warm soapsuds and borax — using ^ oz. borax to 1 gallon of water; then rinse with warm water and wipe dry. If soot is spilled on a carpet, cover it at once with a plentiful layer of salt, and sweep all up together; hardly a trace of the soot will be left. Any trace remaining can be removed by washing the spot with soap and ammonia. Ink Stains on Carpets. — When ink is spilled on a carpet im- mediately take up all that is possible with blotting paper, and then wash out what you can with milk, either sweet or sour; then sprinkle white cornmeal on plentifully and leave over night; in the morning sweep it up, and not a particle of the stain should remain, and the colors will be bright. For dry ink stains proceed the same way, but let the milk soak in for a while, and repeat many times. Or prepare a solution of 8 parts soft water to 1 part, by measure, of powdered oxalic acid, and rub it on; then wash it out thoroughly or the acid will destroy the cloth. If the colors are affected at all, dry with flan- nel and at once apply ammonia to neutralize the acid; then wipe dry, and apply chloroform which will bring out the colors. Sjjots from sugar or siveets can be taken out with water and a damp cloth, as water will dissolve sugar. FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 719 Varnish stains on carpets should be cut with turpentine or benzine, and then washed carefully Mnth clean soapsuds. Gum or wax on a carpet can be cut by applying benzine or alcohol, and so removed. For Whiteioash, Acids or Discolored Spots on Carpets. — A few drops of carbonate of ammonia, and a small quantity of warm rain-water, will prove a safe and easy antacid, etc., and will, if care- fully applied, remove discolored spots upon carpets, and indeed, all spots, whether produced by acids or alkalies. If injured by white- wash this will immediately restore a carpet. Either paint or oil may be removed from a carpet by patient rubbing with chloroform. Be careful not to inhale the fumes. (See also the article on "Removing Spots and Stains," elsewhere.) If the colors of a carpet are injured, see what we say about injured colors in the article elsewhere on " Removing Spots and Stains." To Lay Carpets. — In laying a carpet, work it the lengthway of tile material. Nail one end clear across, but do not nail the sides until you are sure it is fully stretched, A carpet stretcher is a great help. A new carpet should be stretched rather tightly, or after being walked over a few days it will rub up into folds and wrinkles. If the puckers in the seams are unusually obstinate, and do not disappear after the carpet has been down a few days, wet them with clean cold water; when it dries the carpet will be smooth. If, before laying the carpet, the floor is washed with water con- taining borax or alum, and if pepper, salt, camphor or alum are sprinkled under, and especially around the edges of the carpet, it will help to keep out insects. Lay down the carpet, turn back the edge, sprinkle on whatever you use; then turn back the carpet and tack it down. Have the floor perfectly dry before the carpet is laid. Car- pets of whatever kind wear better if the floor boards are perfectly even; also if laid down c^^er carpet lining, paper or coarse canvas. Good carpet lining is a protection against insects. Get the moth proof lining; newspapers are the next best things, as the printer's ink repels moths; use several thicknesses of it. If newspapers are laid under carpet lining, that will wear longer. Carpets prepared with loops on the side, and nails in grooves on the floor, on which they hook, are easily taken up, and the plan seems a good one. Carpets which are not tacked down may, if they turn up, be thoroughly wetted on the back; when dry they will lie flat for some time, but the process may have to be repeated. Stair carpets should always have a pad put under them, at or over the edge of every stair. Use cotton, paper, or pieces of old car- pet, which answer very well. Have the pad a little narrower than the carpet itself. Good pads will make the carpet look richer, feel softer to the feet, and wear twice as long. If the carpet is a little longer than the stairs, and is moved up or down a little each tim.e it is taken up, thus bringing the wear in a new place, it will last much longer. 720 FLOORS AND FLOOR COYERIXGS When 'putting down a new carpet it will be a good idea to save the ravelings; they may be very useful later on in mending the carpet, in buying a carpet small patterns as a rule are best. When painting the basehoar^d, if 2 or 3 inches of the floor are painted at the same time and the same color, if the carpet does not perfectly cover the floor, the gap will not be noticeable. Insects. — These usually make their aj)pearance where the carpet is folded under, or under heavy furniture and in places where the feet do not tread. With ingrain and Brussels carpets, on their first appearance lay on a wet cloth and apply a very hot flat-iron; the steam generated kills all insects. When a carpet is not taken up at housecleaning time it is well to thus steam it, as that kills all eggs as well as insects. Wilton or Axminster carpets are better sent to a steam cleaner's. If the wet cloth and hot iron are applied to these it should be on the wrong side, as the thick pile on the right side x^re- vents the penetration of the heat. Either benzine or alum water will eradicate insects, and neither will injure the colors. Pulverized alum, sprinkled under the edges and in troublesome corners, is an admirable preventive. (For further information about insects see the article on " Insect Pests.") SHEEPSKIN RUGS OR MATS. To Clean Them. — (1) Take out dirt and grease spots with strong soap liquor, or if necessary use fuller's earth. For a thorough cleaning, after taking out spots in this way, dissolve 1 bar of soap in 2 gallons of boiling water; put 2 quarts of this in a tub or pan con- taining about 2 gal. of warm water. Put the rug or mat into this pan, and thoroughly wash and punch it. Throw away this first liquor, and mix another lot in the same way, and again wash the rug; continue this until it is perfectly clean. Then rinse well in cold water to take out all the soap. For white ^skins only, rinse again in cold water in which a little blue has been dissolved. Then wring out, shake and hang to dry with the skin side toward the sun, but not when the heat is scorching, or the skin will become hard and brittle. It should, while drying, be shaken frequently, and hung np first by one side and then by the other. (2) Rub oil or tallow into the skin side, and heat to assist its drying; then with soap and water wash the skin in the usual way; dry it well, and wash with benzine. Thus treated the skin re- mains soft. iSMTPiS«* are not soiled so easily and are more readily kept clean. They can be washed clean with warm water and a flannel cloth. They 'are im- proved by being oiled thoroughly with linseed oil, as they will not then show grease. SOAPSTONE OR SANDSTONE.— Hearths are often made of these. To clean them, first wash with clean water; then take a piece of the stone with a flat face, 3 or 4 inches square, and, having sprink- led on powdered soapstone or marble, scour the hearth till clean. STONE. — (1) To remove grease from stone steps or passages, pour strong soda and boiling water over the spot, and lay on fuller's earth made into a thin paste with boiling water; leave all night. Re- peat the process if any grease remains. (2) Grease may sometimes 47 738 IVOKY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. be taken out by using sand and very hot water, with soap and soda, and rubbing them on with a hard stone. (3) Same as No. 1, given for taking grease from marble. To Clean Stone Steps, Window-Sills, Etc. — Wet flannel dipped in mason's dust is excellent. Bath=brick is used by many, and is good. GRINDSTONES. — Wet the stone by dropping on water from a pot suspended above it, and stop off the water when not in use. Do not let it stand in water when not in use, as that causes soft spots. Clean off all greasy tools before sharpening them, as the grease or oil destroys the grit. TILES. — Wash with clean soft water, soft soap and flannel cloths. Have the latter free from grease. Never use a scrubbing brush. If the tiles get stained apply a little muriatic acid with a clean rag, and then wash thoroughly with clean water. Take off grease with some alkali, like pearlash and water. Encaustic tiles should be washed once or twice a week with skimmed milk; it is much better than soap for them. RUBBER. — To Soften Old Rubber. — When rubber rings, such as are used on fruit jars, become hard and brittle, restore them by soak- ing in a solution of 2 parts water to 1 part ammonia or soda; soak un- til their elasticity is restored, which is from 5 to 30 minutes usually Other old soft=rubber articles can be softened the same way. Wringing-Machine Rollers. — When the rubber rollers of wring- ing^machines become sticky or stained by colored clothes, clean them with kerosene, or by running through them a cloth wet with kero- sene. To Prevent India-rubber Articles from Becoming Hard and Cracking. — Prepare melted parafiine at 212° and put in the articles, leaving them from a few seconds to several minutes, according to their size; then take out and dry in a hot room at 212° F. Rubber hose which has become hard can be softened by dipping it in petroleum; then hang up for 48 hours, letting the oil drip off; repeat 2 or 3 times. To Preserve the Elasticity of India-rubber. — Wash it about 5 or 6 times a year with slightly alkaline water, like ammonia and water, or soda and water. To Cut Rubber. — Use a wet knife. Dipping the instrument used in soda or potash lye will aid in piercing or cutting rubber corks. Old hard India-rubber may be softened again by letting the va- por of carbon bisulphide act upon it; remove from the vapor as- soon as it becomes soft. Faded rubber goods can be varnished by diluting black Japan varnish with linseed oil until thin enough for the purpose ; or use a thin shellac varnish, colored with lamp black for black goods. INDIA«BUBBEB. IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 739 India=eubbeb is obtained from the milky juice of certain plants found only in tropical climates. The trees are tapped, the sap is gathered and when it stands for a time a sort of creamy substance rises which is skim- med off. Its peculiar properties give it great com- mercial value. To Mend a Mackintosh. — Get at the store a piece of the same material of which the mack- intosh is made, and cut out a' suitable patch. Buy or make some India-rubber cement (we give recipe elsewhere) and apply a little on eacth side of the torn part, and also on the pajch; when it begins to feel tacky, bring the edges together, ad ust the patch nicely, and lay on a weight to hold it in position. Leave for several days until quite hard. Mend rubber overshoes, etc. with the rubber cement given among the " Cements." Mackintoshes can without detriment be carried about in a roll or strap, but when not in use they should be opened out so that the air can have access to them ; if kept rolled up, they will become sticky and unpleasant. When one has been wet, spread it out to dry, but do not put it near the fire. To remove spots of mud from a mackintosh try spirits of wine, though it is not always successful. SPONQES — To keep sponges in condition always squeeze them dry after use, and never let them stand in soapy water. Clean them as follows: (1) When sponges get greasy let them dry, and then work them with a little turpentine; after a few minutes wash them with a little soap and water and a little soda. This will make them quite clean, with little trouble. (2) Place the sponge in a basin, completely cover it with bran, pour boiling water over it, and cover the basin to prevent the steam from escaping. Let it stand till cold, and rinse it thoroughly in cold water; wring out all the water with a towel, dry, and it will be clean. (3) When sour, rub fresh lemon juice into it thoroughly; then rinse it a number of times in tepid water, and it will be sweet and clean. (4) If washed about once a week in tepid water containing borax and ammonia, and then dried in the open air and sunlight, they will keep clean and fresh. (5) Prepare a solution of water and potash permanganate, strengthened to a wine color; soak the sponge in this for some time; take out, squeeze, and next immerse in a solution of 10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid, and let soak for some time; then squeeze out the acid and wash thoroughly in clean water. Thus treated, even photo- graphic sponges can be perfectly cleaned and their color restored. (6) Either citric acid or sulphuric acid (about 2 tablespoons to a pint of water) will clean sponges nicely. Steep them about 2 hours, and then wash clean, (7) Soak in milk 12 or 15 hours; then rinse thoroughly in cold water, and dry. New sponges which are hard and gritty may be cleaned and softened for use by first working thoroughly in cold water, then boiling in clean water for \ hour, then taking out and working in 740 IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. cold water again; and repeat this operation 3 or 4 times, until the grit is gone. Do not boil too long at any time, or the sponge will become tender and rotten. WHALEBONES — By merely soaking them for a few hours in water, and then drying them, bent whalebones can be restored and used again. When putting them in the casings it is an excellent idea to make them flexible and conform to the figure by soaking them in warm water for a few minutes, which softens them. TOBACCO PIPES. — A simple and effective method of cleaning them is to fit in a thin cork, with a hole cut in the center, and let the water from the faucet run through the pipe till it is cleaned. ROPE.— New rope, if boiled in water 2 or 3 hours, will be cured of its annoying stiffness, and made pliable; then hang it up, until fully dry, in a warm room, and keep it from kinking while drying. This will not weaken it at all. It is always conven- ient to know how to fasten ropes, and yet few people know how to make the best knots. We give a few. To fasten a rope to a pole, use the " fisherman's bend," used by sailors. To make it, pass the rope twice around the pole or rod; then take a "half hitch" around the long part of the rope as at 1; then thrust the end under the 2 turns, as at 2, 3, and last loop the end about the long part, as at 4. The turns are clearly shown iii Fig. 1. To fasten two ends of rope, use the " sheet bend," so called. To make it, form a "horse-shoe" with one end of the rope, as b b; then pass the other rope through the loop, or horse-shoe; then around and behind both parts of the other rope; then back under itself, as at 1; see Fig. 2. Another good knot is known as the " carrick bend." To make it, form one end of a rope into a loop, a a, technically known as a " bight." Then put the end of the other rope through the " bight," as at 1 ; around behind the other rope, as at 2; then through in front of the other end as at 3; then back through the " bight " as shown at 4; see Fig, 3. It makes a very strong knot. Fig. 1. fishebman's bend. Fig, 2, sheet bend. Fig. 3. cabbigk bend. GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWAKE, ETC. 741 GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. WINDOWS. ^ASH windows when the sun does not shine on them — in pleasant weather, but during that part of the day when the sun does not strike them is the best time, or choose a cloudy but not rainy day. If the sun shines on them while being washed they dry so rapidly that it is almost impossible to avoid having them streaked, because they dry partially before they can be wiped. Wash the inside first, and then the im- perfections can be seen easily from the outside. Use clean rain water, and add enough ammonia to make it feel slippery. Get the dirt out of the corners with a cloth wrapped over a piece of wood, then rinse, and then polish the glass with newspaper, tissue paper or chamois skin; the two last are best. This is the best way, making the glass beautifully clear. Whiting is good to clean windows with; so is alcohol, and so is soda. Benzine, with enough calcined magne- sia added to make a thick milk, is excellent. Any of the above are better than soap. Paint, mortar and ivhitewash may be taken off of windows with sharp hot vinegar; if fresh, cold vinegar will do. Diluted mu- riatic acid will cut them also. Soda dissolved in hot water, and ap- plied with a flannel, will take off paint well; so will camphene and sand — but don't scratch the glass. Ammonia is also used, and a mixture of ammonia and turpentine is good. Scrape it with the edge of a penny or dime. Old putty on window frames can be easily removed by first passing a red hot iron over it to soften it. Or, apply mixture No. 6 given for removing dry paint on wood. Apply thickly on both sides, and leave on 10 or 15 hours. Or, put on soft soap, and leave it on several hours; it will soften the putty enough to cut readily with a knife. Tar on glass will be cut by the mixture No. 6 given for remov- ing dry paint on wood. Or, use 3 parts potash and 1 part unslacked lime. When ivindoivs become steamed, or covered with condensed moisture in frosty weather, a very thin coat of glycerine applied on both sides will cure it. If rubbed with a flannel dipped in alcohol it will keep them free from ice. When a ivindoiv does not close tightly it is easily remedied by putting some putty along the sill, and some chalk on the sash; then close the window as tightly as possible. The chalk will prevent the putty from adhering to the sash, and the putty which squeezes out may be scraped away with a knife. This will make it tight. Window sills which are stained by flower pots can be cleaned by scouring them with fine wood ashes; then rinse thoroughly with cold water. 742 GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. MIRRORS. These may be cleaned with ammonia and water as explained for windows. Spirits of wine, gin, prepared chalk, whiting and tripoli are all used, and are all good. A muslin bag containing powdered bluing, dusted lightly over the glass while it is damp, and then pol- ished ofp quickly, produces a fine result. So does whiting. Am- monia is the best thing. Creases on Miri'ors. — Never allow a mirror to be heated by a stove, nor let the sun shine directly on it — the amalgam will be granulated by either, and give the mirror a creased or scratched ap- pearance. This is the cause of the checked appearance of their mir- rors which sometimes surprises people, To Silver Mirrors. — Spread a sheet of tin foil on a smooth table; then rub mercury on it till the 2 metals are incorporated. Lay the plate of glass upon it, and load it with weights, which will press out the excess of mercury from the tin foil; in 2 or 8 days it will ad- here to the glass and convert it into a mirror. About 2 oz. mercury are enough to cover 3 square feet of glass. For concave and convex mirrors an amalgam is used composed of 2 parts mercury, 1 part tin, 1 part lead and 1 part bismuth. Clean the frames of mirrors as explained for picture frames. GLASSWARE. To Anneal Glass. — Dishes, tumblers, and other glass articles, may be annealed so that they will not readily break from sudden changes of temperature, etc., thus: Put them in cold salt water, set on the stove and bring to a boil ; let boil a short time, take off the stove, and allow them to cool slowly. To Wash Glassware. — The best thing to use is soft water; am- monia, and a chamois skin. Wash it with the chamois skin, then rinse it, wring it dry, and wipe with the same skin. It leaves no lint, and the glass will be beautifully bright. Tissue paper is the next best thing to wipe glass with. Alcohol, soda, borax, powdered chalk and whiting are all used and work well, but ammonia is best. Don't use soap — the other things are better. Stains on Glass. — Stains of tea, lime and other things can be taken off of glass by rubbing with a flannel cloth dampened in am- monia and dipped in whiting. Hydrochloric acid will take off dni/ stains from glass, and nothing else is so effective. Take a basin and put in 1 part acid and 4 parts water, and let the article soak in it a few minutes (if very dirty a little longer) and on taking out it will only need rinsing and drying. Be careful not to drop the undiluted acid on the clothes or hands. For paint stains moisten with washing soda dissolved in warm water; let soak a little while, and wash off. See also "Windows" and " Paint." Pitch and tar may be cut from glass with a little sulphuric acid. - To clean glass and porcelain vessels from the greatest variety of organic substances, a mixture of sulphuric acid and bichromate of i GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWAKE, ETC. 743 potash is superior to ether, benzine, or anything else. This will also clean photographic glass plates when other things fail. To clean pariaii china mix together in boiling water 1 part whit- ing and 3 parts potash, making it into a thick paste; apply to the china with a soft brush, leave on 3 or 4 hours, and wash off with a sponge and warm water. China, majolica and earthenwai'e, which is disfigured by little cracks and checks, may be restored by boiling them in milk. Marking one's name on lohite dishes, etc., can be done with a pen and common black ink, and it will be some time before it washes off. China and Porcelain. — If china or porcelain is discolored with iroji, muriatic acid will clean it; then rinse off with water. Porcelain or china irhich is tea s/amec? or discolored, by careless washing, can be cleaned by rubbing with a flannel cloth moistened with ammonia and dipped in whiting. Or rub with a damp cloth dipped in salt. Cups discolored hroivn by using them for baking, can be cleaned with whiting and flannel as above. Or rub with scouring sand or salt. Carafes and Decanters which have become so discolored inside that shot, sand or fine coals will not cleanse them can be filled with finely chopped potato skins; let stand 3 or 4 days and the skins will ferment; then rinse with water and the glass will be clear. A dirty porcelain sauce-pan may be cleaned, and all odors of fish and onions removed, by filling half full of water, putting in a moldy lemon, and boiling for ^ hour. Sal ammoniac boiled an hour or so in a sauce=pan will clean it also. To remove disagreeable odors from porcelain or china see what we recommend for glass bottles. Porcelain sauce-pans may he cleaned by filling them half full of water, putting iii some borax, and boiling; if any stains are left scour with soap and borax on a cloth; or use whiting, scouring sand, sapo- lio or brick dust. Repeat if necessary. A hrowned porcelain kettle may be nicely cleaned by boiling peeled potatoes in it. If anything becomes burned onto such a kettle, put in wood ashes and water and boil ^ hour; then scour with brick dust or sand; rejpeat if necessary. Preserve jars can be cleaned by letting water containing soda or ammonia soak in them. Stains may be removed as advised for vine- gar cruets and decanters. Tumblers. — Do not put tumblers, which have contained milk, di- rectly into hot water, as it makes the milk adhere to the glass so that it is difficult to remove; rinse them first in tepid water. Glass Globes, to Clean.— ^uh them inside with a damp cloth, dipped in powdered pumice stone; rinse and dry with a chamois skin. Borax is also used, but is not so good. 744 GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. To Clean Vinegar and Sauce Cruets. — Proceed as advised for decanters — 3d method. To Frost Glass. — Take equal parts of Epsom salts and sour beer and boil them together; paint this on the glass while hot. It can be washed off readily when desired. Imitation of Ground Glass. — Prepare a hot saturated solution of Epsom salts, Glauber's salts, or sal ammoniac. Apply either to the » glass with a brush while hot, and on cooling it will form a beautiful and perfect screen. Let the water take up all the salt it will possibly dissolve to make the saturated solution. Four sided prisms will be formed by the Epsom salts; six sided prisms by the Glauber's salts, and thread4ike crystals by the sal ammoniac. Decanters. — To clean them: (1) Take a handful of tea leaves and 1 or 2 tablespoons of vinegar; shake well together, and put into any furred glass, shake it about and it will clean it nicely. (2) If stained with port wine, put in some crushed egg shells or charcoal, and some warm water and pearlash, to which a little fresh slacked lime is added. Shake it about till the stains are gone. (3) Soak in warm soda and water for hours; then use a brush to scrub the dirt out of the cut work outside. Cut a potato into small dice, put some inside, with some warm water, and shake till the stains disappear; then rinse in cold water and drain until dry. (4) The crust from port or other wine may be cut out with a little muriatic acid, diluted and left in for some time. Incrustations or Coatings Caused hy Hard Water. — These may be removed from a carafe, or any glass, china, or porcelain ware, by rinsing it with water to which a litte hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is added; it cuts the alkaline incrustations so that it easily comes off. Bottles, to Clean. — Make a lye by boiling equal quantities of soda and quicklime. When cold, put this in the bottles with crushed egg shells, small pieces of marble, charcoal or crushed bones, and shake. Coarse sand and tacks are sometimes used, but are liable to scratch the glass. Afterwards rinse and drain thoroughly, then warm, and blow into the bottles with a pair of bellows to dry them. They will be as bright as new. Shot are often used, but as the lead is liable to stick to the glass it is not as good as the other things rec- ommended above. Hot soapsuds is sometimes used in place of the lye but does not leave the glass as bright. Bottles if oily or otherwise greasy should not be washed with water, but should have some strong alkali, like pearlash, put in them; then wipe them out with tow or cloth on a wire. Diluted nitric or sulphuric acid will also clean oily flasks. Bottles soiled ivith resin, tmyentine, or resinous varnishes, can be washed with a strong alkaline solution, and wiped out with tow or cloth on a wire. Or use sulphuric or nitric acid. To Clean a Photographic ^^ Silver Bottle.'''' — Pour in a strong solution of potassium cyanide (a deadly poison), shake a few times, pour out, rinse 2 or 3 times with clear water, and the bottle will be perfectly clean. GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 745 To remove disagreeable odors, like those from musk or cod= liver oil, put in some hot olive oil or sesame; also flax-seed meal, or any of the oily seeds, when powdered and mixed with water, answer the purpose excellently. Mustard or bitter almonds will remove many odors from bottles or glass. Bottles ivliich have contained petroleum should be washed with a thin warm milk of lime; it forms an emulsion with the petroleum and removes every trace of it If washed a second time with the milk of lime and a little lime chloride added, even the smell will be com- pletely removed. In packing bottles they may be prevented from breaking by slipping India rubber bands over them, which keep them from touching each other. To Remove Glass Stoppers. — (1) Tapping the stopper on a piece of wood, first on one side and then the other, will often start- it. (2) Dip one end of a cloth in hot water and wrap it around the neck of the bottle; the heat expands the neck and the stopper can be removed, but remove the stopper as soon as the neck expands, and before the heat expands the stopper also. (3) Apply oil, water, or muriatic acid to the top of the neck around the stopper; then warm near the fire for a time. (4) Inverting a bottle for 2 or 3 nights in a pan of water deep enough to cover its neck merely, will often succeed when other means fail. (5) Put vinegar in a tumbler, insert the neck and leave for a while; then apply the hot cloth as above, and it will often start. (6) When hot water is not convenient the neck can be heated enough to release the stopper by wrapping a cord once around and " sawing " back and forth. Coi'ks. — When corks are too large to go in readily, let them soak in hot water until softened a little. They can be made air and water tight by keeping them for 5 minutes in melted parafiine, but hold them completely under with a screen or other device. For a water-tight cement for corks, see the rubber cement given among our cements. To preserve corks from insects, dip the heads of bottles, after being corked, into quicklime, slacked into a paste, and let it harden on. Petroleum is sometimes used, but is not so good. To Remove a Cork that has been pushed into a Jug. — Fill the jug with water. Double a string, insert it in the jug so as to fall directly under the cork, pull the cork up to the mouth of the jug, hold the string firmly, work in a corkscrew and pull out the cork with it. To Cut Glass. — A simple and easy way to cut glass bottles, etc., is to wind cotton twine around them 2 or 3 times, just below where they are to be cut in two; then saturate the twine with turpen- tine or alcohol, by dropping it on slowly, and then set it on fire. When nearly burned out, pour on a little cold water. The glass will separate as evenly as if cut with a diamond. Or, make a mark with a file where you want to begin the cut, then take a poker or iron with the end pointed, heat it red hot, and starting at the file mark, draw it 746 LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. along the glass; a crack will follow wherever the iron is carried. Old bottles may in this way be converted into jelly jars, etc. Window glass held under water, can be cut with a strong pair of shears, although it is not generally known. To Pulverize Glass. — Heat it red, and at once plunge it into cold water; the sudden cooling makes it pulverize more readily. Earthenware and stoneware before being used, should be put in cold water, brought to a boil for a short time, and then taken off the fire and allowed to cool gradually. If, when the water is boiling, some wheat or rye bran is thrown in, it will preserve the -glazing so that salt and acid will less readily destroy it. Crockery ornamented with gilt bands, flowers, etc., should be washed as quickly as convenient, rinsed, and left to drain until dry — it should not be wiped. Varyiish for Earthenware Vessels. — Take equal quantities of soda and pulverized glass, mix and dry it over a strong fire; have the vessel hot also when it is applied. SPECTACLES. — Wipe them with an old silk handkerchief or chamois skin, as that will not scratch them. If slightly soiled, breathe on the glass and wipe it; if much soiled, wash with ammonia, which is the best thing to use. Be careful not to bend the frames, as that will alter the focus of the lenses, and the eyes will suffer as a result. LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. LAMPS. LAMP should be kept scrupulously clean. The receiver should be emptied of the old oil occasionally and cleaned out. The best way is to put in hot soda and water and some crushed egg-shells, and shake well; this will clean off all incrustations; then empty it out, and dry it perfectly, for if any water remains, the lamp will sputter. When lamps stand for hours half filled or less, an oil vapor rises which mingles with the air in the upper part of the lamp and forms an explosive gas. For this reason a nearly empty lamp should not be lighted. Many of the lamp explosions are caused by ignorance and carelessness in this re- gard. Fill lamps daily, so that there may be no room in them for this explosive gas, and fill them in the daytime, and not at night near a lighted lamp. An oil lamp should not be filled quite full, nor allowed to burn too low. If the oil has been stored in a cold place and the receiver is filled full, as the oil warms it will expand and run over. Never turn down a light for economy's sake. Nothing is saved, as the oil will feed up the wick faster than it is consumed, and it will smoke or smell, or both, and become a distinct source of danger, as LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. 747 the lamp heats rapidly. If a dim light is wanted in a sickroom, it is better to set the lamp in another room, or shade it, than to turn it down. When the edge of the flame is orange color, proper combus- tion is not taking place. Dirty burners, badly-fitting wicks, and neglect about filling are the 3 principal things to guard against. The ivick should fit the burner perfectly, and should neither be too thick, too thin nor too narrow; if only a little too wide 1 or 2 threads can be pulled out near the selvage edge without harm. Wicks should be changed often or they will become clogged and pre- vent the free passage of the oil. They can be washed in strong, hot soapsuds, adding ammonia to the rinsing water, if it is desired to clean and use them again. Soaking a wick in vinegar and then drying it thoroughly before use, will prevent its smoking. A wick clogged with oil may also be cleaned by boiling it in vinegar and water; dry thoroughly before using it. Wicks steeped in a concentrated aqueous solution of tungstate of soda, and then dried thoroughly in the oven, will be almost inde- structible. A wick should be long enough to just touch the bottom of the lamp. The best way of trimming a wick is to turn it down to nearly a level with the wick tube, and then rub across it with the finger or a match; this is better than cutting it with scissors. If the light burns unevenly, it is because the wick is trimmed unevenly. Trim the wick square across, and any little unevenness not removed by the finger can be trimmed off with scissors. Be very careful not to let the charred part of the wick fall into the burner when trimming it. The burners should be cleaned once a month. Wash them in soap and water, and then boil them for a little while in soda and water. Some people use for this purpose the water in which beans have been boiled, and it answers very well. Then rinse the burners, and dry them perfectly, before the wicks are put in. Nickel burners may be boiled as well as brass ones. Rubbing burners every few days with whiting, or with kerosene on a woolen cloth, will clean them well. The little air holes should be kept open to secure a good draught of air, for a plenty of fresh air is essential to. a good blaze. Much of the trouble with student^lamps, and other similar and costly lamps, is that the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick is not emptied out; it should be done every day to secure a clear flame. Burn None but the Best Kerosene. — You can test it by pouring a little in a saucer; apply a lighted match or taper, and if it does not ignite readily it is good. Keep oil in a cool dark place. When a lamp is lighted turn it up gradually so as not to heat the chimney too suddenly; then turn it as high as it will go with a white flame, and without smoking. When a lamj) is put out leave the wick down below the top of the tube, otherwise the oil will work up the wick and run over on the burner and lamp and make them greasy. 748 LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. Lamp Chimneys and Shades. — If the chimneys are put into cold water to which some common table salt is added, then heated gradu- ally and well boiled for |^ to 1 hour and then allowed to cool slowly, they will crack less easily and be much more durable. Keep all lamp glasses very bright and clear. Ammonia and water is the best thing for washing chimneys — much better than soapsuds which makes them look dull; if only slightly soiled, breathe on them and then wipe. The steam from the nose of a rapidly boiling tea-kettle cleans them well. A piece of sponge on a flexible whalebone is as good as anything for cleaning the inside of either chimneys or lamps. Smoked lamp glasses washed until the stains are gone in warm soda and water to which a little ammonia is added will look as bright as new. Lamp chimneys which have been neglected and be- come much spotted and stained may be cleaned thoroughly with hydrochloric or sulphuric acid and soda. For wiping chimneys, newspaper, tissue paper or chamois skin are much better than cloth. To clean ground glass shades use curd soap, soda and water, scrub them with a nail brush, and it will take off all smoke; rinse them thoroughly with clean tepid water and set aside to drain and dry, but do not wipe them with anything, nor touch them with the hand till dry. Warm them a few minutes by the fire before screwing them in place; handle them with a clean cloth or paper. After filling and cleaning lamps and chimneys roll up pieces of newspaper in the form of cones and set over them; it will keep off dust and dirt, and when wanted they will be clean and bright. A cement for lamp tops may be made by boiling 3 parts resin and 1 part of caustic soda, in 5 parts of water. This forms a soap, which when mixed with half its weight of plaster of paris, sets in about f hour. It is very adhesive, and not permeable by kerosene — it is much better than the plain plaster of paris ordinarily used. Or, use melted alum; apply as soon as melted; as soon as cold the lamp may be used. Suhstitide for Lamps. — The following ingenious substitute for a lamp may be made by any one, and it is especially useful about mag- azines or where inflammable materials are kept. Take an oblong vial of the clearest and whitest glass, and put into it a piece of phos- phorus about the size of a pea. Pour some olive oil, heated to the boiling point, upon the phosphorus, filling the vial about \ full; then cork it tightly. To use the light, remove the cork and allow the air to enter the vial, and then re=cork it. The empty space in the vial will become luminous, the light equaling that of a lamp. When the light grows dim, renew it by taking out the cork and admitting a fresh supply of air. In winter it may be necessary to heat the vial between the hands to increase the fluidity of the oil. This apparatus may be used 6 months. Smoked Ceilings. — The smoke of a kerosene lamp may be washed from a ceiling with a strong solution of soda and water. MATCHES — These should be safely guarded and kept in metal- lic boxes out of the way of children and mice; many accidents will be prevented thereby. * METALS AND METAL WARE 749 Scratching Matches. — It is very annoying to have heedless peo- ple scratch matches on wood work, and when one mark is made others quickly follow, but if the spot is rubbed with a flannel satura- ted with any liquid vaseline, people can neither light matches there nor scratch the paint, however often they may try; and, singularly enough, the petroleum causes the existing marks to soon disappear, at least on dark paint. CANDLES. — A candle which it is desired to burn all night in a sickroom or elsewhere, should have finely powdered salt put on top until it reaches the blackened part of the wick; thus treated, even a small piece will burn all night, with a mild, steady flame. In hloiving out a candle hold it well above the mouth and blow it out from below, instead of holding it down in the usual way, and blowing it out from above; this will prevent it from smouldering. To Clean Candlesticks. — Instead of heating them before the fire to melt the grease, pour on boiling water; this will soften it enough to be rubbed off wit^^ a rag, without danger of melting the solder, or doing other injury; then, if china, wash; if plated, polish with plate powder. METALS AND METAL WARE. ETALS and metal wares are found in every house, and it is important for housekeepers to know the best ways of car- ing for them. The following hints are exhaustive, and will supply the needs of our readers. ALUMINUM — Kerosene or tripoli, applied while the vessels are warm, are about the best things for cleaning aluminum cooking utensils. Discolorations of any kind can be removed by putting 4 oz. nitric acid in 1 quart of water, and boiling it hard in the vessel for ^ hour. This metal is not affected by the sulphur com- pounds which blacken silver so much. It does not rust or corrode, and it retains its luster in the air, whether moist or dry, for any length of time Hot water produces not the slightest effect on it, but alkaline solutions act on it, and therefore spoons, forks, etc., can be cleaned and whitened with soap; or soap and water made strong with , soda, or with liquid ammonia, or with a heated solution of potash. The strong or caustic alkalies consume it rapidly, but as the mild acids, like acetic, malic, citric, or oxalic, which are found in foods, do not affect it, it is admirably adapted for making cooking utensils. It is without doubt the best metal at present known for that purpose. It is acted on slowly by muriatic acid, but sulphuric or nitric acid does not affect it, unless the nitric acid is very hot. BRASS. — To Clean. — There are a great variety of methods for cleaning brass; we give some of the best and most convenient meth- ods for our readers' use. (1) Rub with strong vinegar; then remove the acid by washing with hot water, and rub with dry whiting. (2) Mix pulverized rottenstone into a paste with oil of turpentine; rub 750 METALS AND METAL WARE on with a soft leather, leave a few minutes, and wipe with a soft cloth. (3) Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid in 1 pint soft water; rub on with a piece of flannel, and polish off with another dry piece. (Use only occasionally.) (4) Use the water potatoes have been boiled in (peels and all); strain it, and wash the brass in it. (Said to be good.) (5) Apply whey or sour milk several times; then scour it with a woolen cloth dipped in ashes. (6) Rub it with rottenstone and oil; finish with dry whiting or ammonia. (7) Pour very strong ammonia over it; then scrub it thoroughly with a brush; in 5 minutes it should be- come as clear, bright and shiny as new metal; then rinse in clear water and wipe dry. An excellent way to clean old brass. (8) L^se salt and vinegar mixed. For greatly discolored brass kettles, first scour with ashes and soap; then boil the vinegar and salt in the ket- tle; then rub, and rinse thoroughly. The great objection made to all the strong acid mixtures used for cleaning brass is that they eat away the metal, which is true. It is objected Jo the rotten- stone preparations, when used about machinery and instruments, that they work into joints, etc., and clog their action. To Clean Lacquered Brass.- — Lay it in hot, strong soda and water, and brush it well over with soap. Lift it out and lay it as it is, all soapy, in a pan, and pour absolutely boiling water on it. Let it J steep for 1 or 2 minutes, then lift it out and throw it into cold water to enable you to handle it; then dry it carefully. It should require neither rubbing nor polishing. If the brass is very dirty, boil it in the hot soda water. To Clean Indian Brass. — Use very fine brick dust, moistened with lemon juice. For Brass Inlaid Work. — Mix tripoli and linseed oil; jjolish with felt dipped in this mixture. If inlaid in rosewood or ebony use a paste of rottenstone, a pinch of starch, sweet oil and oxalic acid, mixed with water. To Remove Varnish from Brass. — -Much of the brass in use is coated with shellac varnish; this protects the brass while it is unim- paired, but it sometimes gets broken. To remove it, use a cloth wet with alcohol; the brass can be cleaned with this, and a fresh coat of shellac varnish applied. To Color Brass. — A mixture of muriatic acid and alum dis- solved in water imparts a golden color to brass articles that are steeped in it a few seconds. To Frost BrasS'WOi'k. — Boil the article in caustic potash, rinse in clean water, and dip it in nitric acid till all oxide is removed; then wash quickly, dry in boxwood sawdust, and lacquer it while warm. Lacquer for Brass. — Take of seed=lac, dragon's blood, aniiatto, and gamboge, each 2 oz.; saffron, ^ oz., spirits of wine, 5 pints. To Clean Scale Pans. — Pour sufficient ammonia in the pan to cover the bottom, and rub briskly until dry with a handful of dry pine sawdust. For very dirty pans, take about 1 drachm potash bichro- mate, powder it in a mortar, mix with it two or three times its bulk METALS AND METAL WARE 751 of concentrated sulphuric acid, and add twice. as much water. With this rub the pans (having a care for the fingers), rinse we'll, and finish with rottenstone. To Remove Lime from Scq) Pans. — Muriatic acid, used in the proportion of 1 lb. acid to 1 gallon water (used cold), will cut the scale; it can then be removed with a brush. To Clecm Brass or CopjJer. — (1) Take lemon peel or pulp, dip it in salt, and rub copper or brass articles with it; rub them imme- diately afterwards with a dry, soft cloth; waste lemon from lemon- ade, etc., may be used. (2) Mix together 1 oz. oxalic acid, 6 oz. rottenstone, and -J oz. gum arable; all these are to be finely pow- dered; then add 1 oz. sweet oil and sufficient water to form the mix- ture into a paste. Apply a small portion to the article to be cleaned, and rub dry with a flannel or wash leather. Copper and brass articles are n ot as well adapted to general cooking purposes as many other metals, because even m.ild acids so readily form poisonous, com- pounds with them. When used they should be kept scrupulously clean. To Bronze Brass or Copper. — (1) Boil the article in a strong solution of nitrate of copper. (2) The repeated application of alter- nate washes of dilute acetic acid and exposure to the fumes of am- monia will give a very antique looking green bronze. BRITTANIA METAL.— To clean this, rub the articles first with sweet oil on a piece of flannel; next wash with strong warm soapsuds; rub them dry, and polish with chamois leather and whiting. The polish thus given lasts for a long time. BRONZE. — In caring for bronze, ordinarily, careful dusting and keeping free from dirt is all that is required. (1) If greased or spatted, wash with a strong warm soapsuds; then rub gently, and dry thoroughly. (2) Clean if with spirits of turpentine. (3) A dilute solution of caustic alkalies removes overlying dirt and allows the green patina to become visible. Where the metal was not originally oxidized, the alkali simply cleans it, and does not promote any for- mation of green rust. Bronzing Liquid. — Thoroughly clean the article to be bronzed; then warm it gently, and brush it over with the following prepara- tion : 1 dr. sal ammoniac, 15 grains of oxalic acid, and 1 pint of vine- gar, all well mixed together; rub dry, and then repeat the application till the required tint is obtained. Lacquer for Bronze. — Dissolve f lb. shellac and ^ lb. sandarach in 3 quarts alcohol; add enough extract of dragon's blood and tur- meric to produce the desired color. Bronzing Process for Porcelain, Stoneware and Composition Picture and Looking-glass Frames. — First apply a thin solution of water-glass, using a soft brush; then dust on bronze powder, and dust off any excess not adhering, by a few gentle taps. Then heat it, to dry the silicate, and the bronze will be firmly attached. The bronze may then be polished by burnishing, using preferably agate tools. 752 METALS AND METAL WARE COINS. — These can be quickly cleansed by immersion in stronf? nitric acid, and immediate washing in water. If very dirty, or if cor- roded with verdigris, it is better to give them a rubbing with ^ oz. pure potash bichromate, 1 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 oz. nitric acid; rub over, wash with water, wipe dry, and polish with rottenstone or chalk.— -L^/Ze. COPPER ARTICLES.— (1) Vinegar and salt, mixed, will clean copper. (2) Use soft soap and rottenstone, made into a stiff paste with water, and dissolve by gently simmering in a water=bath or double boiler; rub it on with a woolen rag, and polish with dry whit- ing and rottenstone; finish with dry whiting on a chamois skin or flannel. See also "To Clean Brass or Copper," given above. DOOR PLATES. — To polish these without soiling the wood or stone around them cut a hole in a stiff cardboard the exact size of the plate, and slip it over before polishing. The easiest way to clean them is generally to use ammonia and water, and then dry with chamois skin, and then the pasteboard shield is not needed. GAS CHANDELIERS AND BRACKETS — These should be dusted regularly. To clean them. (1) If lacquered, wipe them over lightly with a soft flannel dipped in a preparation of equal parts of stale beer and vinegar. (2) If gilded, clean like gilded picture frames. (B) To thoroughly clean a lacquered chandelier take it to pieces, and boil them for a few minutes in a strong soda lye; then brush them over with a soft brush, pass them through a strong solu- tion of potassium cyanide (deadly poison), wash through a tubful of boiling water, dry in clean sawdust, wipe bright with a wash leather and relacquer. (4) The accumulation of grease near the burner can be removed by using the vinegar aud stale beer mentioned above. A Convenient Waij to Rebi'onze Gas Fixtures. — Mix bronze powder with any transparent varnish like amber, gum demar or copal; do not mix more than you are going to use at once. The best way is put a little of the varnish in a small, flat saucer, and some of the loose powder next it, 3.nd mix it with the brush as you use it. GERMAN SILVER — To dean this: (1) Use whiting made into a paste with water, and rubbed on with flannel; then rub dry with a chamois skin. (2) Rottenstone, rouge or crocus, mixed with sweet oil, and rubbed well on; polish off with a clean chamois skin and dry whiting. (3) Dissolve ^ oz. of alum and ^ oz. of cream of tartar in ^ pint of vinegar; add 1 pint boiling water; wash with this when much discolored. (4) If discolored or spotted with vine- gar or other acids, wash it and then scour with sweet oil and rotten- stone. GILT MOUNTINGS.-- These articles should not be rubbed; if slightly tarnished, wipe them oft' with a piece of canton flannel; or, better, remove them, if possiole, and wash in a solution of ^ oz. borax dissolved in 1 lb. water, and dry them with a soft linen rag; METALS AND METAL WAEE 753 their lustre may be improved by heating them a little and rubbing with a piece of canton flannel. Unless carefully cleaned they soon lose their lustre. Gilded articles of any kind may be cleaned as explained for gilt picture frames (which see). GOLD — To clean. — (1) Make a solution of 20 drachms lime chloride, 20 drachms soda bicarbonate, 5 drachms common salt, in 5| pints distilled water; keep in well= closed bottles. Allow the article to be cleaned to remain in this solution a short time (which is to be heated only in case of very obstinate dirt) then take out, wash with spirit,s and dry with sawdust. (2) To remove the brown tarnish from colored gold, wet tissue paper in ammonia and rub gently until the tarnish disappears; then wash, rinse, and dry in sawdust. If this does not do it, take it to a jeweler. (3) Polish with rouge and oil on a piece of chamois leather. (Be careful of any jewelry containing pearls, etc. See the article on " Care of Jewelry.") To Clean Gold and Silver Lace. — (1) Take finely crushed stale bread crumbs, and mix it in ^ as much powdered blue; spread this plentifully on the lace and it "will soon become bright; then brush off the crumbs with a piece of flannel, and rub with chamois and it will look like new. (2) Clean gold lace by rubbing it with a soft brush dipped in roche alum, burnt, and sifted to a fine powder. ( 3 ) Dab silver lace with a paste of heavy magnesium and watqr; let it dry and brush it off with a soft brush. IRON AND STEEL — To clean.— {I) Rust on iron may be re- moved by rubbing it with kerosene. (2) For Russia iron apply black- ing and kerosene mixed, and it will look nearly new. (3) For steel, take turpentine and sweet oil, equal parts, and thicken with emery powder to a paste; rub it on with flannel and rub it dry with chamois leather. If this is not enough, finish with a little dry emery powder on flannel. (4) For bright steel, mix 1 tablespoon of turpentine and 1 of crocus powder; rub on quickly, and rub oft' again as quickly; pol- ish with a chamois leather, and it should look bright as a mirror. (5) To take rust out of steel, rub it with sweet oil; leave on 1 or 2 days; then rub with finely=powdered unslacked lime until the rust is gone. (6) Make whiting into a paste with a few drops of alcohol; apply thickly, allow to dry on, then rub off and polish with a soft lea- ther. This will remove tarnishes. (7) For badly rusted steel, scour with salt and hot vinegar; then wash off thoroughly with boiling hot water, dry with a flannel cloth, and warm at the stove; then rub with flannel dipped in sweet oil. Russia, Iron, to Clean. — Take a piece of beeswax about as large as a hickory=nut; shave fine, and cut with ^ pint of gasoline; rub on with a cotton, cloth, and polish with flannel. Do not mix or use near a fire. Russia Iron, to Black and Keep from Rust. — (1) Take ^ pint best black varnish (asphaltum is best); 1 pint black Ceylon lead; add enough spirits of turpentine to mix it into a paint. A^Dply like 18 754 METALS AND METAL WARE other polish to a stove, and rub at once with a bruE;h. Have the iron cold when applied. (2) Melt together 3 parts lard and 1 part resin. A thin coat will keep Russia Iron or grates from rust when not in use, even in damp places. Good also for steel, copper or brass. Steel Ornaments, to Clean. — (1) Rub them with a mixture of paraffine oil and emery; then rub them with putty powder sifted through muslin, and mixed with a little oil. (2) Lime moistened with water and placed on the ornaments as a paste for 12 hours, and then brushed ofP, is a good restorer. To Preserve Steel from Rust. — (1) Dissolve white beeswax in benzine; paint this on the article; the benzine evajjorates leaving a thin coating of wax on the steel. Keep 1he solution in a tightly corked bottle as it is very volatile. (2) First, clean the article, then dust it over with powdered quicklime, and leave till wanted for use. Coils of piano in're, thus covered have kept for years. Applicable to any bright iron or steel goods. (3) Iron blades immersed in a solution of carbonate of soda or potash, and then exposed to a damp atmosphere will keep from rust for three years. (4) Melt 1 oz. resin in 1 gill linseed oil, and while hot, pour on them 2 quarts of paraffine oil. Apply this mixture with a rag or soft brush. (5) Mix with mutton fat ^ pint of oil varnish, four fifths pint of well rectified spirits of turpentine. Apply this varnish with a sponge. Metals thus var- nished will retain their metallic brilliancy and not contract rust. (6) A thin, even coat of sweet oil applied to steel surfaces keeps them from rust. (7) Melt pure mutton suet, dip in the steel of /wires, for^JiS, etc.; let it cool, wrap tissue paper around them, then canton flannel or thick paper, and they can be stored indefinitely without rusting. To Clean a File.— Pour on some benzine, and rub it with a stifiP or scratch brush. Stoords, etc., may be rubbed with powdered brick dust and oil; rub dry with brick dust; polish with crocus and leather. To Keep Steel Far-rings, Brooches, Etc. — First clean, and then keep in powdered quicklime and they will sufPer little from rust. Unslacked lime is an excellent thing to clean steel articles with. To Polisli Iron or Steel. — Mix 2 oz. fine emery with 1 oz. soft soap; rub iron or steel with this, on wash leather, and it will give it a fine polish. To Remove Paint from Jrow.— LTse a paint softener made of 1 lb. lime, 4 lbs. potash and 6 quarts water. Excellent. To Prevent Iron from. Rusting. — Warm it till you annot com- fortably hold your hand on it; then rub it well with clean white wax; heat it again until the wax has soaked in, then rub the iron with a piece of coarse cloth, and in future it will not rust. GALVANIZED IRON ARTICLES.— These are best cleaned by scouring them with a strong solution of hot water and common wash- ing soda. Galvanized iron attracts soap in such a way as to cause a deposit which is disagreeable and unsightly; hence it is better to use tinned vessels for holding any soapy solutions. METALS AND METAL WAKE 755 A Word of Caution. — In galvanized iron vessels, water readily acts on the zinc coating, and forms a 'poisonous oxide of zinc. Hence for drinking water, or for any cooking purposes, galvanized iron utensils of any kind should never be used. PEWTER. — Keep pewter vessels free from damp; wipe well, and dry before the fire after use. To clean: (1) Make a paste of whiting and kerosene or sweet oil; rub with a flannel dipped in this paste. (2) Wash in hot water with fine silver sand; then polish with soft leather. (3) Scour with fine emery on flannel or chamois. (4) Use a paste of rottenstone and oil, with just a little ammonia added. First wash the article with soap and water, then rub with this paste, and then polish with soft leather. NICKEL. — To clean this use whiting, mixed with ammonia, water, or kerosene; rub it on with a flannel; then rub dry with a clean flannel or chamois skin. Rouge also polishes it well, and com- mon soda cleans it well. SILVER AND PLATED WARE.— Hot soapsuds will make all silverware look dull — a little ammonia in the water used for washing it is much better. For cleaning silverware: (1) Ammonia and alco- hol are both excellent; rub either on the article, then polish with a little whiting (sifted thoroughly free from all grit) on a chamois skin. (2) One of the simplest and best things is to lay the silver in sour milk or buttermilk ; it will take off all sulphur stains, etc., and make it look like new. (3) Save the water in which jpotatoes have been boiled; it is better if salted, and also if kept a few days until sour; use it hot, rub the silver. with it, rinse, and polish with chamois. (4) Lemon juice cleans silver well. Plcde Rags for Daily C7se.— These are convenient, and may be prepared as follows: Boil soft rags (nothing better for this than the tops of old cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, in the proportion of 1 oz. of powder to 1 pint of milk; boil for 5 minutes; wring them for a moment in cold water, as soon as they are taken out, and dry them before the fire. With these rags rub the plate briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried; a most beautiful deep polish will be produced. Better to use than powders. Egg and Mustard Stains. — These may be removed from silver spoons by using a damp cloth dipped in salt. Stained and Spotted Silverware. — Whenever silver plate from long standing and neglect is stained and spotted so that it is not readily cleaned by the usual plate powders, mix 1 part sal ammoniac with 16 parts vinegar; rub the stains or spots gently with the mix- ture and they will soon disappear. Then wash well with soap and water. To Remove Ink Stains from Silver or Plated Ware. — Rub with a paste of chloride of lime and water; then wash well, and wipe. 756 METALS AND METAL WARE To- Clean Silver Dress Trimmings. — If slightly tarnished cover them with dry magnesia; leave it on for 2 hours, then rub it in, and brush it off with a hard brush. If they are very dirty the magnesia must be first used wet, and then dry. Good Polishes for Silver or Plated Ware. — These may be made as follows: (1) Alcohol and whiting (freed from grit) mixed together makes a simple and excellent plate powder, or use ammonia and whiting mixed; apply it, let it dry, and then rub it off with chamois skin. (2) Take 1 oz. each of cream of tartar, muriate of soda and alum; boil them in 1 gal. or more of water. It gives silver- ware a beautiful silvery whiteness. If any plate powder is used in cleaning silverware it must be carefully brushed out of the chased work with a soft brush. A Caution. — Many plate powders contain quicksilver; all such powders are injurious and should never be used. Mercury or quicksilver when applied to silver or gold disinte- grates the metal and makes it very brittle; the remedy is to heat the metal in an alcohol or gas flame; the mercury evaporates and the metal is as good as ever. Then polish off the tarnish. When silverivare is laid aivay, wrap it first in tissue paper, and then in unbleached canton flannel; then wrap it in stout wrap- ping paper or an oil silk bag, and as nearly air tight as possible, to exclude the gaseous vapors and dampness found in most houses. Camphor gum wrapped in the canton flannel with the silver helps keep it bright. Fannel or woolen should not be used to .wrap up silver, as these contain sulphur which tarnishes it. A silver tea or coffee pot not in daily use should have the cover propped open a little, when it is put away, by laying a little stick across the top; this will admit the air and prevent its becoming musty; by rinsing it with a little boiling water it can then be used at any time at once. TINWARE. — Never use acids to clean tinware; they attack the metal and remove it from the iron on which it forms a thin coat. To clean tin: (1) Saturate a cloth with kerosene, dip it in whiting and scour with it. The best way. (2) Blackened ware may be scoured with a damp cloth dipped in soda; then rinse, and wipe dry. (3) Rub with rottenstone and sweet oil; finish with soft leather. (4) Use kerosene oil alone. (5) Use whiting dry, or moistened a little (6) Moisten the tin, rub on dry flour with the hand, and then scrub till iDright with newspaper. (7) To clean tinware after it has held petroleum, scrub with hot water and soap. Keep all tinivare perfectly dry; it soon becomes tarnished in moist air. To Prevent Rust on Tin. — Rub thoroughly with lard, covering every part; then heat it well in a hot oven. Even if used constantly in water, this will protect it for some time. Musty coffee or tea pots, or pie-plates, pots or pans that have been used to bake in and have become rancid, may be made sweet METALS AND METAL WARE 757 and clean as follows: Take cold water and add either wood ashes or soda; then put this in the article, or the article in this, as the case may be, and bring it to a boil; boil for a time, then let it cool, and scrub thoroughly with hot soapsuds, using a small scrub brush; then scald in water a couple of times, rinse and dry. New tinware, before being cooked in, should have soda water boiled in it; then wash it with soapsuds, rinse and dry it thoroughly. A Caution. — Because of the readiness with which salt, acids, etc., attack tinware, it should be used cautiously in cooking. Constant scouring of tinware with ashes, rottenstone, whiting, etc., wears it out; if washed ordinarily with hot water and soap, and about once a week with hot water and soda, it will need scouring rarely. To Remove the Lids from Tin Cans. — First start the solder by placing live coals on top; an old case knife will then remove the lid; be careful not to start the side seam. To Mend Tinware. — Scrape and clean the parts, rub on pow- dered resin, lay on solder, and hold a hot poker or soldering iron on it. Or, clean the spot, apply soldering fluid, place a piece of bright tin of the required shape over the hole, melt some solder in an iron spoon, and pour it around the edges. Or, cut tin foil the required size; wet the surfaces with a feather dipped in sal ammoniac; heat with a hot iron till the tinfoil is melted. Or, scrape the place clean, apply soldering fluid, lay on a piece of solder, and hold over a lamp till the solder melts and fills the hole. It is quite easy to mend tin- ware, and people in the country will find it a great advantage often to be able to mend their own ware. People in towns can send to a tinsmith more easily. A Soldering Fluid. — This is easily made by taking a glass bot- tle, putting in hydrochloric acid, and adding small pieces of zinc until it will dissolve no more. Apply it with a stick when ready. Do not get it on the clothes or hands. A good solder for tinware is the lining of teachests, as it is made of tin and lead in about the right proportions. Lacquer for Tin. — Put 3 oz. seed4ac, 2 drachms of dragon's blood, and 1 oz. of turmeric powder into a pint of well rectified spirits; let stand 2 weeks, agitating at least once each day; then strain through muslin. Apply it to tinware which is intended to im- itate brass. Any good lacquer laid on tin gives it the appearance of brass or copper. Color lac varnish with turmeric, which will give it the color of brass; or with annatto which will give it the color of copper. Japan for Tinware. — (1) Mix 8 oz. oil of turpentine, 2 oz. copal varnish, and 1 drachm of camphor. (2) Use common copal varnish. Either of these may be colored with lampblack or vermillion, and will then make a good japan. WIRE TABLE WARE — This can be kept bright by washing in water, using a soft cloth and a little soap; it will not need scouring if properly cared for. Whiting is excellent, if anything is used. 758 METALS AND METAL WAKE ZINC. — To clean zmc: (1) Dip cotton cloth in kerosene and rub the articles; then rub dry with another cotton cloth. (2) A quick process is to use creosote or glycerine, mixed with a little dilute sulphuric acid. (3) The water in which codfish has been soaked is good for scouring the zinc under the stove. (4) Lime water will clean zinc well. (5) Dilute hydrochloric acid will clean small zinc articles quickly. Rub large articles, like refrigerators, with raw spirits; then rinse with water, and finish with whiting. (6 ) Take |- lb. powdered pumice stone, 2 oz. emery powder, 1^ quarts soft water, 1 oz. nitric acid; shake together well before using. This answers well for tin also. POLISHING MATERIALS — Whiting used dry, or moistened with water, is good for almost any unlacquered metal, even silver plate. Kottenstone mixed with oil, or flour of emery, used either dry or mixed with oil, are suitable for almost any metal not lacquered, except silver or gold. Rouge, dry, or mixed with oil, is best for gold or silver. Lime is good for steel articles. An Excellent Polishing Powder. — Thoroughly mix 6 oz. of car- bonate of magnesia with 1 oz. of Paris rouge (oxide of iron). Apply it with a soft cloth, dampened in alcohol or water, and rub till nearly dry; then polish with chamois skin to finish. This powder was first made by Thomas Weigler, the German chemist, and has been sold under various high sounding names. It is suitable for either gold, silver, iron, steel, copper or tin. Excellent. Plate Powder. — Take 3 lbs. gilder's whiting, 2 oz. white castile soap, 1 oz. aqua ammonia, \ oz. olive oil, 1 gill warm water. Dissolve the soap, and add ^ the whiting and the other ingredients; mix well, and then add the remainder of the whiting; mix stifp — if too stiff add more water. Make into cakes. Use on tin, copper, silver, nickel, mirrors, etc. CARE OF JEWELRY — To clean gold jewelry, wash in a basin of soft water to which a little ammonia or baking soda has been added; use a soft tooth=brush and good soap. Then rinse off, and throw into a box of sawdust — boxwood is best. Shake up, and when dry take out, shake off the sawdust and wipe with a chamois skin. It will look beautifully bright. Pearls should never be washed in this way, however, as it may injure them. Tarnished Gold. — This may be renovated by applying warm spirits of wine with a soft brush or flannel, and its brilliancy will be restored again. To Clean Pearls. — (1) Soak them in warm water in which bran has been boiled, with a little salts of tartar and alum, rubbing them gently between the hands; when the water is cold renew the applica- tion till any discoloration is removed; rinse in lukewarm water, and lay them on white paper in a dark place to cool. (2) For ordinary cleaning, when not much soiled, wash them with a soft brush in luke- warm water containing just a trace of ammonia. (3) Put them on a clean linen cloth, scatter on salt, tie up the cloth with a string, and STOVES, FIKES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 759 sop it in lukewarm water (not hotter than that) till the salt is dis- solved and washed out; then take them out, rinse in clear water, and dry with a soft flannel cloth. Pearls, — These should be kept in dry, common magnesia, in- stead of the cotton wool used in jewel cases. Kept in this way they will never tarnish nor lose their brilliancy. Pearls are the most deli- cate of stones and require careful treatment. They will be spoilt if exposed to much heat; vinegar or acids quickly destroy them. Never wear them when engaged in housework. To Clean Diamonds, Emeralds, or any of the brilliant precious stones, apply precipitated sulphur, moistened with spirits of wine, and rubbed with a soft brush. Or, clean them with ammonia, the principal thing being to get them perfectly clean. Jet jewelry may be mended with black sealing wax. To Clean Coral Jeioelry. — Wash it with hot water, with good soap and soda; then rinse clean, and when dry rub with chamois leather. Artificial Cored. — Melt clear yellow resin, and while melted, mix in thoroughly the best vermillion, in the proportion of 1 part Vermillion to 4 parts of resin. Stones, twigs, raisin stalks, etc., dipped in this, will look like coral when cold. Silver Ornaments. — These are best kept in fine arrowroot, and completely covered with it. For cleaning silver ornaments see " Silverware " and " Silver Lace." STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. STOVES. EVEK. fill a stove with coal above the top of the linings, and keep it free from clinkers. When the coal is put on for the night do not close the stove at once, but let it burn till the coal is warmed through; then close it and there will be no escaping gas; nor will the fire go out. Never let the ashes accumulate in the ash-pan until they reach the grate — that will burn it out. Run a range so as to get all the heat needed without having the top red hot; that will warp the covers, and if a little water strikes them they will crack. Keep a stove well blacked. In buying a stove, furnace, or any heater, get one large enough to heat up readily in the coldest weather, so that ordinarily it will not be run to its full capacity. It will wear longer and be more economical. Buying too small a heater is a common mistake. A range or cooking stove placed opposite a door or window will be subject to draughts which will prevent the oven from baking well; hence arrange a place for it elsewhere, if possible. To cook well, keep an even, steady fire. To let it die down is poor economy as the heat is wasted, on adding fresh fuel, until the oven or stove is brought up to the right temperature for cooking. Clean out the 760 STOVES, FIKES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. slides under the oven of a cooking stove as often as once a week — twice a week is much better if there is much cooking to be done. With a properly regulated fire, this will insure uniform results, and the oven can be relied on to bake well. The inside of a range, including the oven flues, ought to be cleaned regujarly at least once a month. To get the best results out of a stove or range, and to economize both fuel and time, requires intelligent treatment. Every woman should understand the principles on which her stove is constructed and its scientific management. Preserve and study the card of directions which goes with every range. Observing the following rule will save coal, and 1 hod of coal will often last 6 hours without replenishing: When the fire begins to burn, close the smoke damper; as soon as most of the coal is bright, close the other damp- ers. If, however, a very hat oven is needed leave open the slide at the bottom of the grate. When less heat is needed in the oven, or on top of the range, open the checks and close the drafts; when more heat is needed reverse the process, i. e., close the checks and open the drafts. Most cooking stoves are altogether too low. If they were raised on a box or platform to the height of the kitchen table, or a little higher, it would save many a back^ache. Try it, sister, and see. Blacking Stoves. — A stove well cared for will not need blacking more than once a month. Then clean off the old blacking with ker- osene before applying the fresh coat. Then black it well, and wipe off with a clean rag. Always keep a cloth at the side of the stove to wipe up grease spots before they burn in. Each morning, while the fire is coming up, go over the stove with a polishing brush. In this way you will have a fine appearing stove alv/ays. Where blacking will not stick to a stove burned red, if a little vinegar, or fat fried from salt pork, is added to the water used to dissolve the blacking, it will adhere all right; or, wet the red parts and let them rust a little; then the blacking will adhere. In blacking a stove there are various simple additions which improve the result: (1) Use turpentine, or turpentine and a little sugar, to mix ordinary blacking. It prevents rust and makes the polish more durable and glossy. (2) Mix the polish with soapsuds; or shave good hard soap into the polish and boil them together. (3) Mix the polish with vinegar and just a little sugar. (4) After black- ing a stove apply linseed oil with a woolen rag, and keep a slow fire till it dries. It prevents rust and gives a lasting varnish. (5) Mix the blacking with cold coffee instead of water, (6) Mixing the blacking with gasoline also improves the polish, but that is so very explosive that it should never be used when there is a particle of fire. A stove blackened when entirely cold will retain its lustre much longer than one which is blackened while warm. To Make Stove Polish.— (1) Take 1 lb. black lead (pulver- ized), 1 oz. sugar, 1 gill turpentine, 1 gill wdter. Mix, This is the STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 761 preparation used by stove manufacturers. (2) Mix water-glass and lampback to about the consistency of syrup; apply a thin, even coat- ing with a stove brush, and let it dry for 24 hours. Then apply an even coat of gum water, mixed with either black lead or graphite; now with a polishing brush rub briskly in the usual way, and a dur- able and beautiful polish will result. To Clean a Dirty Stove. — Rub it when cold with stove polish mixed with alum water. To polish the nickel parts of a stove use a flannel rag and whit- ing wet with kerosene or water; or, an old woolen cloth, dampened and dipped in the softest white ashes. The stove ur7i should be kept nearly filled with water as long as the stove has any fire in it. It is an excellent plan to put a small bag of charcoal in the urn, and change the charcoal every week. When clinkers gather on the fire brick in stoves or ranges, put a few oyster shells on top of the hot coals, and put a little coal on them; they will, as they burn down, scale ofP the clinkers. To Clean the Mica in Stoves (often mistakenly termed "Isin- glass"). — This may be cleaned as good as new by washing it with vinegar, or with vinegar and salt mixed. Cracks in stoves may he stopped with various cements. One, easily made, is to mix fine wood ashes, salt and water into a paste or mortar; apply while the stove is hot. Another and more durable filling can be made by mixing sal ammoniac and iron filings or turn- ings with water. Yet another is made with equal parts of finely sifted wood ashes and powdered clay, mixed with water and a little salt. Apply while the stove is cold. Others are given in our article on " Cements." To prevent rust in stoves when put away for the summer: (1) Apply linseed oil as explained in our 4th method for blacking stoves. (2) Mix blacking with kerosene or sperm oil instead of water, and black the stove with this. (3) With a rag, apply a good coat of kerosene oil to both pipes and stoves on taking them down, and store them in a dry place. When a stovepipe begins to rust check it at once by rubbing it with linseed oil; dry it then by a slow fire. To Preserve Grates and Bright Steel Fenders from Rust: ( 1 ) Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water ; with a fine brush smear this as thickly as possible over all polished surfaces requiring preservation. All the grates and fire arms in an empty house may thus be kept for months free from harm. (2) Rub bright steel fen- ders and fire irons with mercurial ointment, and leave all bright parts well smeared with it. (3) Rub them well with sperm oil, after which apply unslacked lime. Wrap the fenders in paper to keep off dust. (4) Melt in front of the fire a piece of raw mutton fat (the loin is best) and rub it thickly all over bright fenders and fire irons; then do them up in several thicknesses of brown paper. The fat must be raw, not cooked, and melted only just enough to rub on well. 762 STOVES, FIEES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. Clean steel grates when necessary, like any other steel — see our article on " Iron and Steel." To clean the soot out of a stovepipe throw some pieces of zinc on the hot coals in the stove; the vapor produced will, by decomposi- tion, carry off the soot, it is said. It is said that a common brine of salt and water, poured over soft coal, will prevent the accumulation of soot in the chimney, and in the lower parts of the stove which burns. We never tried it. Furnace pipes should be thoroughly examined every fall. Holes are liable to rust through them, and the heat will escape through these rusted holes instead of passing along in the pipes to warm the rooms. A Hint. — A strong tin box, with a handle and cover, in which to put the stove brushes, polish, stove cloths, etc., will be a great con- venience; it can be carried about from room to room, and when thus stored away the shelves will not be soiled with the blacking, etc. FIEES AND FUEL. To start a fire in a grate crumple up pieces of paper into soft balls, instead of laying them in flat, and put these in a layer touch- ing each other. Then lay on 3 or 4 small sticks of perfectly dry wood an inch or two apart; then 3 or 4 more across the other way, and so on alternately, according to the size the fire is to be. This allows openings for a good draught, which is absolutely essential in start- ing a fire. Then lay on small lumps of coal, as large lumps do not ignite so readily, touch a lighted match to the paper below, and you will soon have a good fire. In starting a fire in a stove or range proceed in much the same way, leaving openings in the kindling wood for a draught. If a little coke is kept on hand to use in start- ing a fire, it will be a great convenience. Only a little is needed; it lights readily and makes an intense heat. Never shake a fire which is almost out — that will finish it. Turn on the draught instead, and as soon as it starts up a little, add a handful of small coals on the red spot; in this way you can revive a fire almost out. When a coal fire is low, to let out the ashes from below or heap coal on top will put it out. To deaden a coal fire, press down the mass from the top so as to make less room for air to draw through it. To revive a fire in a grcde put on the blower, and as it starts a little put on small pieces of coal gently until it is well started. When starting a fire in damp, still weather, place on top of the grate pieces of lighted paper or shavings; they will blaze up quickly, heat the air in the chimney and create an upward current which will help in starting the fire, and will draw the smoke away from the room. When loiv, a tablespoon of salt thrown on a fire will help it. A little sugar will revive dying embers and give a bright flame at once. Old corks, and thoroughly dried orange and lemon peels, make ex- cellent fire revivers. STOVES, FIEES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 763 Never pour kerosene oil on a fire to revive it — it is too danger- ous, and your friends are are not ready to bury you yet. Never throw away cinders or half 'burned coal; they are worth as much as coal, measure for measure. Sift them out of the ashes, wet them, and burn them. Added to a coal fire they will make it hotter than fresh coal, and keep it hot longer. To throw them away is a pure waste. During the fall and ivinter every room in the house should have a fire kindled in it at least once a week, to prevent dampness Fire Kindlers. — Melt over a slow fire 1^ lbs. of resin, and add either 1 pint of tar, or 5 oz. of tallow; while hot stir .in as much as possible of fine sawdust, or sawdust and pulverized charcoal mixed — either is good. Then spread it out, about an inch deep, on a board sprinkled with charcoal, to cool. When cold, bre'ak into lumps about as large as hickory^nuts. They will light readily and burn for some time. Burning Buildings. — When a house takes fire every one should remember to shut all doors, as open doors allow flames to spread too rapidly. Keep the windows closed also. If hemmed in up=stairs by fire, do not jump from a window until the last resort. Tear up bed clothes or clothing and make some kind of a rope, tie one end to a heavy piece of furniture, and let yourself down by it. If a room is full of smoke and flame crawl on the floor, as there is less smoke near the floor. As a ready protection against breathing smoke wet a handkerchief or towel and fasten it around the face over the mouth and nose. A fire ivill be extinguished immediately if a solution of pearlash and water is thrown upon it. Fi7-e Hand Grenades. — (1) Take 20 lbs. common salt, 10 lbs. sal ammoniac, 7 gallons water. Mix. Put this into thin bottles holding about a quart, and seal up. If a fire breaks out throw these bottles into the flames hard enough to break them. (2) Fill thin quart bottles with a strong solution of common salt. Throw them violently into a fire when it first breaks out and they will check the flames. Fireproof Solution. — Dissolve boric acid in a hot solution of tungstate of soda, which makes a salt called borotungstate of soda; materials impregnated with this solution are rendered perfectly fire- proof. A Chemical Hecder. — Mix 1 lb. of soda acetate with 10 lbs. of soda hyposulphite. Fill a sheet copper or other metallic vessel, such as a foot warmer, with the solution, and seal it up. When desired for heating purposes place the vessel in hot or boiling water, till the contents are quite fluid. It possesses the property of giving ofl' the heat very slowly, and may be used as a source of warmth for 12 to 15 hours. It is adapted as a foot warmer, muff-warmer, etc., and where a fire is not admissible. CHIMNEYS. These should have the interior surface as smooth as possible, and to obtain the best draughts they should be kept clean. Smoky 764 PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. chimneys are very generally caused by being below tlie level of some adjacent building, or other object which obstructs the free passage of the wind. In this case the trouble will be noticed when the wind is in certain directions. The most reliable remedy is to raise the chimney to the required height by brickwork or pipe, although a cowl or hood will often overcome the difficulty. Leaks, holes or fissures in chimney's will cause sluggish draughts. If 2 fireplaces draw into one flue, provision should be made for closing either one when not in use; it is better for each to have a separate flue. Ordinarily the chimney is the best ventilator, at least when the fire is burning^ which keeps up an upward draft. When there is no fire, however, they often admit a current of cold air which draws down them. When a chimney takes fire, shut all doors and windows and throw sulphur on the fire in the stove or grate — if thrown on the grate put a board before the opening to prevent the fumes from coming out into the room. The brimstone fumes ascending the chimney will extinguish the flames. If sulphur is not convenient shut stove doors and hang a blanket in front of the grate to check the draught as much as possible, and throw salt on the fire; this will deaden it down. Never pour water down the chimney — it will spoil the carpet; throw down salt instead. Leaks about chimneys may be stopped up with the fireproof cement given among our cements, or with one of those given for stopping cracks in a stove. PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. PAINT. EFORE painting woodwork all grease spots should be re- moved, or the paint will not adhere. To remove the grease spots there are various ways. ( 1 ) Apply whitewash ; leave on one night and wash otf in the morning. When fully dry apply the paint. (2) Use a litte wet slacked lime instead of the whitewash. (3) Wash it with soda water, rinsing well after- wards. (4) Scour off with a little marble sand. If any soapsuds is used it should be washed off thoroughly, or the paint will not dry hard. Have the wood dry before applying the paint. When painting, eat acid fruits, and thoroughly air and venti- late the rooms. In giving 3 coats of paint, use about 1 lb. paint to the square yard on new woodwork. It is said that oil paint put on in the autumn lasts longer than when applied at any other season, but we do not vouch for that. Before apjjlying paint, stop up nail holes, etc., as explained under "Nails" (which see). The drying of paint is largely dependent on the temperature. Below the freezing point paint will often stay wet for weeks, while the same paint if exposed to a heat of 120° F., will become solid in a few hours. A good supply of fresh air is essential. An open fire in PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 765 a newly painted room is only beneficial when the temperature is low; as a rule it retards rather than helps the drying, because of the car- bonic acid gas it gives off. A first coat should be thoroughly dry before another is put on. To make old paint which is " sticky " become hard and dry, first apply a coat of benzine; leave it on 36 or 48 hours. Then take 3 parts lacquer and 1 part boiled oil; mix, and apply a light coat, if the paint is good; if it is thin, mix in more lacquer and put on an- other coat. To Remove Dry Paint from Wood. — (1) Apply a strong solution of oxalic acid (a poison). (2) Wet with naphtha as often as required; as soon as it is softened rub the surface clean. (3) Use chloroform mixed with a small quantity of spirits of ammonia composed of strong ammoniac. (4) Use a paste made of potash and strong lime; cleanse the surface afterwards with vinegar. (5) A handful of lime put into a pail of strong soda and water, well stirred, and laid on the paint, will soon soften old paint; it can then be scraped off easily. (6) Apply a thick coat of 2 parts freshly slacked lime, and 1 part sal soda, mixed thick; wash off after 24 hours. Clean with vinegar. To Remove Paint on Glass. — (1) Dissolve common washing soda in hot water; apply it to the paint hot and let it soak a short time (if thick, 30 minutes) and wash off. Repeat if needed. Good. (2) Scrape off what you can with a knife; then rub with a cloth wet with alcohol. (3) Use turpentine and ammonia mixed, or either alone if you have not the other. (4) Take 3 parts potash, and 1 part unslacked lime; lay on with a stick and leave some time; it will remove either tar or paint. Cleaning Paint. — Paint should be more often brushed than scrubbed; too frequent scrubbing causes it to decay. Use little soap and wash it off with plenty of clean water, to prevent discoloration. Soda, pearlash and ammonia all injure paint if allowed to remain on; it is better not to use them at all, but if used they should be immedi- ately rinsed off with clean water, and the paint rubbed dry with flan- nel. For washing paint there is nothing better to use than old worn flannel Do not have the water too hot. The woodwork inside a house should all be washed over twice a year. We present the. fol- lowing methods for cleaning unvarnished paint: (1) Wet the paint with warm water; then rub with a damp flannel dipped in whit- ing; rinse off with clean water and rub dry with chamois. This is much better than soap, is easily used, saves the paint, and makes it look like new. (2) For paint much soiled use whiting and ox=gall mixed together to a batter. Rub on with a flannel; rinse off with cold water, rub dry with a soft cloth The unpleasant smell of the gall will soon go off. (3) Dissolve | oz. glue, and a bit of soft soap the size of a walnut, in about 3 pints warm water; scrub this on with a well worn whitewash brush, but not enough to start the paint; rinse with plenty of clean cold water, using a wash leather; let it dry it- self. Work done in this manner will often look like new. (4) Mix 1 tablespoon of skimmed milk, 2 tablespoons of turpentine, 2 quarts hot water, and soap enough to make a suds; this cleans well and adds luster. 766 PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. To Clean Oiled and Varnished Woods. — Wring a flannel cloth out of lukewarm soft water, and wipe them ofiP. Grained Wood is best washed with cold tea, and for dark col- ored paints this is one of the most convenient and efPectual things there is; then rub it with flannel cloth. For flower-jpot stains on a window-sill, see " Windows." To Destroy the Smell of Fresh Paint. — (1) Shut up the room closely, and place in the middle of it a pan of lighted charcoal on which some juniper berries have been thrown. (2) Leave in the room a pail of water containing some new hay; or place hay on the floor and sprinkle it with water in which chloride of lime has been mixed. Leave several pans or pails of water during the night in a newly painted room, and in the sleeping rooms adjoining, and the deleteri- ous effects of fresh paint will be nearly overcome; the material it absorbs will be seen on the top of the water in the morning. Do not sleep in a freshly painted room. To Prevent Paint from Smelling. — Dissolve some frankincense in spirits of turpentine by simmering over a clear fire; then strain and bottle the mixture. Add this to any paint, and, if too thick, thin with turpentine. Paint Which Resists Moisture. — Take 6 gallons fish oil, 1 lb. of sulphur, f lb. resin; melt and mix all together thoroughly; color as desired with ochre or other colors, and use a little linseed oil; apply while hot with a brush; have the first coat very thin — then lay on several more. May be applied to either wood or stone. Light colors, as is well known, reflect the heat, while dark colors absorb it; for this reason light colored paints are best to use on tools, etc., much exposed to the sun. Luminous Paints. — Several bodies possess the property of ab- sorbing a certain amount of light and then emitting it slowly. Cal- cium sulphide is the most important of these, and it has been mixed with paint where the light is desired. It is very feeble, however. If something of the kind is desired, heat strontium theo=sulphate for 15 minutes over a good Bunsen gas lamp, and then for 5 minutes over a blast lamp. For use, mix it with pure melted paraffine, and expose it to the Sunlight for a time. In the dark it will emit a greenish phosphorescence. It can be applied to clock dials, etc. PAINT BRUSHES — To soften brushes that have become hard, soak them for 24 hours in raw linseed oil, and rinse them out in hot turpentine, repeating the process until clean. To wash the brushes, use hot soda and water and soft soap. If paint brushes have a hole bored in the handle and, when not in use, are hung above an open necked bottle or can, containing oil, so that the bristles are immersed up to the binding cords, they will keep clean and be ready at any time for use. To keep a new brush from shedding its bristles or shrinking, turn it bottom up; then spread open the bristles and pour in a little good varnish; keep it bottom up till dry, and ^^^ varnish will "set" around the bristles and bind them fast. PAINT, VAENISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 767 VARNISH. Lay on varnish carefully, with a good even stroke, applying a smooth and regular coat; let it stand in a moderately warm place to dry, that the varnish may not chill. To Remove Varnish. — (1) Scrape with sandpaper, and then use spirits of ammonia; it is a rather slow process. (2^ Cut the varnish with spirits of wine and turpentine mixed. To Remove Spots on Varnish. — See our directions for taking spots off of varnished furniture in the article on " Furniture." To clea7i varnished surfaces, as well as dark colored paints or graining, wash it off with cold tea; then polish with a chamois skin. Never use hot water on varnish. For a fuller explanation of the treatment of varnished surfaces see our article on "Furniture." When varnish is "sticky'''' it may be remedied by first applying a coat of benzine; leave it 48 to 72 hours; then lay on a coat of good varnish. Do not use the article until it is thoroughly dry. Do not use ammonia on varnish, as that turns it white. For a ivhite varnish, take 6 oz. white wax, 1 pint oil of turpen- tine; dissolve by a gentle heat. For a cheap oak varnish, take 3^ lbs. clear, pale resin, 1 gallon oil of turpentine; dissolve it. This may be colored darker by adding a little fine lampblack. For a sealing wax va7-nish dissolve sealing wax in spirits of wine, and apply the solution (well shaken up) with a soft brush; the spirits of wine will evaporate, leaving an' even coating of sealing wax. For a shellac varnish, dissolve 1 part shellac in 7 or 8 parts of alcohol. If too thick add alcohol; if too thin add shellac. Keep in a bottle. It dries quickly and is good to varnish almost anything with. Colorless Varnish. — Take 2| z. bleached shellac and let it dis- solve in 1 pint of rectified alcohol; then heat 5 oz. animal bone black, mix in thoroughly, and boil all 5 minutes; test it by filtering a little through filtering paper; if not colorless put in more bone black and again boil; then filter it all through silk and filtering paper. It can be used as soon as it cools, for whitewood, labels, paints or any spot- less article. VARNISH BRUSHES. — As the beauty of varnishing depends largely on the brush, care should be taken to select one that is suita- ble. The best way to keep a varnish brush when not in use is to bore a hole in the handle as advised for paint brushes, and suspend it above a narrow tin pot containing the kind of varnish last used, im- mersing it up to the binding cords but no higher. Brushes kept in turpentine are apt to get hard and harsh. CALCIMINE AND WHITEWASH. CALCIMINE — Before applying a new coat of calcimine wash off the old one. It can be done with a sponge and a pail of water, or 768 PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. moisten and scrape it off. To prepare calcimine, soak \ lb. of white glue over night in cold water; in the morning heat it until dissolved. Mix 10 lbs. whiting in hot water and then mix and stir the 2 to- gether; dilute to about the thickness of cream, with warm water. The glue can be left out if skimmed milk is used in place of the water. Apply it with a calcimine brush, which produces a better re- sult than the coarser brush used for whitewash. If there are cracks in the ceiling, fill them, before applying the calcimine, with the wall cement given among our cements. The smoke from a kerosene lamp may be washed from a ceiling as explained under "Lamps." Calcimine can easily he tinted any desired shade. The following are a few of them : For a bnff tint, use 2 parts Indian yellow, and 1 part burnt sienna. For blue, use a little Prussian blue; a dark blue shade is never advisable. For hroivn, use burnt umber. For grey, use raw umbei.% with a little lampblack. For lavender, prepare a light blue, and then shade it a trifle with vermillion. For lilac, use 2 parts Prussian blue and 1 part vermillion; mix thoroughly, and don't get the color too high. For straw, use chrome yellow and a very little Spanish brown. Remember, that delicate tints are always in better taste and more agreeable than vivid colors; also that when laid on they always look brighter than when in the calcimine pail. Ceil- ings should be a little lighter than the walls. Accomplish this by calcimining the ceiling first; then add a little more color and go over the walls. WHITEWASH. — Slack about ^ bushel of unslacked lime with boiling water, keeping it. covered during the process. Strain it, and add one peck of salt dissolved in warm water, 3 lbs. ground rice put in boiling water and boiled to a thin paste, ^ lb. powdered Spanish whiting, and 1 lb. clear glue dissolved in warm water; mix these well together and let the mixture stand for several days. Keep the wash thus prepared in a kettle or portable furnace, and when used put it on as hot as possible. This will answer for either wood, brick or stone, and retains its luster for a long time. It is the formula recom- mended by the U. S. Treasury Department to all lighthovise keepers. It can be colored, if desired, to any shade. A little lampblack added makes a slcde color; lampblack and Spanish brown, a red stone color; yellow ochre or chrome yellow a pretty cream shade, etc.. For common work a mixture may be used of -| bushel of lime slacked with boiling water, and add 1 lb. of common salt, ^ lb. of sul- phate of zinc, and 1 gallon of sweet milk. This is cheap, easily made and excellent, and if applied once a year, or even oftener, to unpainted fences and outbuildings, whether of wood or stone, it will preserve them, and conduce to the healthfulness of the premises. Many peo- ple do not realize the value of a good coat of whitewash. This may be colored to any desired shade by using yellow ochre, lampblack, burnt umber, Prussian blue, etc. No brick wall which is ever intended to be painted should be whitewashed. All washes absorb water, and in damp weather lose their color. PICTURES AND FEAMES 801 PICTURES AND FRAMES. |ICTUEES should always be hung with cord strong enough to hold them. There is nothing stronger than copper wire; or use the cords containing wire. In buying cord get that as near the color of the wall as possible. The effect is better to put engravings between chromos and paintings than to hang the latter side by side; and it is better not to hang water colors near colored pictures like paintings and chromos. Pictures should not be hung so that the shadows will come near the window; it may spoil the effect of a good picture, because the side that needs the light will not get it. When hung directly opposite a window the reflection of the light from both glass and frame may nearly hide the picture. Do not hang pictures or chromos so that they are exposed to the direct rays of the sun, nor, on the other hand, in a dark room, as darkness fades some colors rapidly. Have a good light, therefore, but not strong sunlight. Attend to the condition of the wall against which a picture is hung. A slight amount of dampness will produce brown or mildewed spots on an engraving or any kind of paper mount, while it produces a slight film of mildew on an oil painting. On the other hand an oil painting should never be hung on a wall through which a hot flue or chimney passes, which heats the wall considerably, as after a time curious spots, lines and patches make their appearance, and if the picture has ever been restored the places become painfully apparant. When pictures hang flat, it is a good plan to have a piece of cork fas- tened behind each corner, which will keep the frame a small space from the wall, and promote free ventilation behind them. Only heavy gilt frames should be used for oil paintings. An oil painting should have its face dusted with an old soft silk handkerchief; this is much better than a feather duster. Occasion- ally (perhaps every 2 or 3 months or so) it should be dry cleaned, using an old silk handkerchief, although some use a pad of soft cot- ton=wool. Brush it lightly and quickly, and an occasional breath on the surface helps the process. A slow touch with a silk handkerchief is apt to make the surface look greasy. Do not press heavily, nor strain the canvas in the least. When spots or discolorations are ob- served, or a picture has become very dirty, it must be taken down and cleaned carefully. Choice pictures which show signs of mildew, cracking, etc., should be taken to a professional restorer, rather than to attempt handling them at home. To Clean Oil Paintings. — There are various methods. (1) First wipe off the dust with soft silk; then dip the finger in a little linseed oil contained in a saucer, and gently rub the painting. This method requires time and patience, but it is safe, and it produces gratifying results. (2) In restoring pictures the great thing is to do as little as possible. They can be washed with warm water and sweet milk, and then dried carefully. Do not rub them hard. (3) First examine the picture to see that there are no cracks, or bits of paint likely to peel off; then take an old soft cloth and some white of egg, 51 , 802 PICTUKES AND FRAMES and wash the surface, a sqviare inch at a time, with a spiral motion of the hand, not pressing too heavily. If very dirty mix some bread molasses and new milk in a basin, adding a trifle of turpentine; wash it with this, using soft flannel and a sponge ; afterwards use the white of an egg. (4) If care is taken not to let water through cracks, nor wet the backs, castile soap can be used on oil paintings, although as a rule it is not advisable. (5) Raw potato has an almost magical effect on oil paintings, and is sometimes used to clean them. First wipe off the dust with a soft silk cloth; then rub it with the raw potato; lightly and evenly, and wipe off the lather with a soft rag. Manipulate it carefully. The dirty surface of the potato must be constantly trimmed off, to keej) a clean working surface. Afterwards rub the picture over with clean nut or linseed oil. Varnish for Pictures.— Put into a bottle 2 parts alcohol and 1 part best coach varnish; shake well; they will separate unless they are shaken every time they are used. To use, pour a little in a cup and spread it on quickly with a camel's hair brush, as the alcohol speedily evaporates. If necessary, after the first coat has dried apply a second, and draw the brush the opposite way in applying it. Keep it clear of dust while drying; this gives a beautiful polish, not af- fected by cold water used to clean it, nor by steam. To Clean Chromos. — (1) Use a soft cloth, moistened in cold tea; then polish them with a little oil. (2) Dust them carefully, and then wipe them with a soft linen rag or chamois skin, moistened slightly. Finish by rubbing with a touch of oil on a chamois. Apply a thin coat of mastic varnish if the old coat is dull or defaced. Varnish for Chromos. — For chromos not previously varnished prepare a size by dissolving isinglass in lukewarm water, making it the consistency of starch. Apply, lightly, a smooth coat of this with a flat varnish brush ; when quite dry, lay on, in a warm room, one or more coats of Demar varnish; shield carefully from the dust until dry. Thus varnished they can be safely wiped off at any time, and will be much more durable. FRAMES. To Clean Gilt Frames. — (1) Blow off the dust. Then beat up the white of eggs and add common washing soda, in the proportion of 3 oz. egg to 1 oz. soda; brush this, with a soft brush, over the frame. This will also clean and brighten all gilded articles. (2) Mix 1 gill of water, 1 oz. common salt, 1 oz. alum, and 2 oz. purified nitre. Sponging with this mixture will brighten them if ever so dirty. Black Walnnt or Other Dark Colored Frames. — If varnished, these may be cleaned with cold tea, and then rubbed up with a good furniture polish. If oiled, and not varnished, clean them first with cold tea, then rub with a little linseed or kerosene oil. White Frames. — If varnished these may be cleaned like other varnished frames; if not varnished, clean carefully with whiting and water, and then rub with a chamois skiii. PICTURES AND FRAMES 803 New Gilt Frames should be given a coat of white varnish. It improves their appearance, makes them last much longer, and fly specks can then be washed ofl: without itijury. This also improves old frames. To Keep Flies Off of Frames. — Sponge them over with onion water. Boil 4 or 5 onions in a pint of water; when cold, apply it; it will not injure the frames. Applying laurel oil will also keep off flies. To Restore Old Gildings. — (1) Form cotton wool into a tuft as large as a nut, dip it in strong liquid ammonia, and carefully apply. If the gold is not worn off it restores it fairly well. (2) To patch or retouch a gilt frame apply to the abraided spot a size, made by dis- solving isinglass in alcohol; when partially dry, lay on gold leaf; leave it till fully dry; then burnish with a hard burnisher. (3) Take 1 quart of water, add enough flowers of sulphur to give it a golden tinge, boil 5 or 6 onions in it and strain. Apply to the part that needs restoring, with a soft brush, when cold. The onions will keep off flies, and the solution will brighten the frame. To Regild Picture Frames. — Take some parchment gold=size, and water gold=size; warm them and mix together till fluid j paint this over the picttire frame with a soft brush; when dry, apply a sec- ond coat; when that is dry rub gently with fine sandpaper. Have ready some book gold=leaf, warm it before the fire, rub some white wax upon a piece of writing paper; pick up the gold leaf with the waxed paper and lay it gently on the frame, and continue fixing leaves till the frame is covered, but always overlap one leaf with an- other; then press the gold=leaf to the frame very gently. Let it dry; then pass a clean brush dipped in water over the surface to carry away any superfluous golddeaf . Cover the gilding with a coating of warm parchment size, and it will be finished. The Glass Over Pictures. — This should be washed with am- monia and water, and wiped dry with chamois skin or tissue paper. When it is desired to clean the glass without taking it out of the frame, and the frame is made of silk or other material easily soiled, bend pieces of tin at an angle, thus L and set these over the frame with one edge resting on the " glass and the long arm protecting the frame; then wash carefully with soft water and ammonia, and rub dry with tissue paper or chamois skin. THE PICTURE CORD. — To hang pictures copper wire is the best thing to use, adapting the size to the weight of the picture; if cord is used buy that made for the purpose with wire in it. ENGRAVINGS, MEZZOTINTS, ETC. To Clean. — Engravings or prints which have been laid in any of the following baths, may be laid on a clean board or strips of clean smooth cloth to dry. Sometimes prints are dried by laying them between sheets of clean blotting paper, and keeping them under pressure till dry. If necessary they may be ironed with an ordinary flat-iron to restore the gloss, placing clean paper between the iron 804 PICTUKES AND FRAMES and the print. Sometimes, before being dried, they are placed in a very weak solution of isinglass or glue, to act as a size; a little, coffee or tobacco added to the solution will give a yellow tinge when that is desired. Great care should be exercised in handling, prints while wet, so as not to tear them. They are easily handled with a little care. For cleaning prints there are various methods, the following being among the best: (1) If engravings are very dirty, take 2 parts salt and 1 of soda, and pound them together very fine. Lay the en- graving on a board, and fasten it with drawing pins; then spread this mixture, dry, equally over the surface to be cleaned. Moisten the whole with warm water and a little lemon juice, and, after it has remained a minute, or even less, tilt the board up on its end, and pour over it a kettleful of boiling water. Avoid rubbing, and be careful to remove all the mixture.- If the engraving is not very dirty the less soda used the better, as it has a tendency to give a yellow hue. Then treat as above directed. (2) Prepare a solution in the proportion of ^ lb. lime chloride to 1 pint water; let it stand, with frequent stirring, for 24 hours; then strain through muslin, and finally add 1 quart water. Engravings, prints, and every description of printed matter, may be immersed in this solution; mildew and other stains will quickly disappear. The sheets must then be passed, separately, through clear " water, as the lime chloride if left in the paper will cause it to rot. Dry as above directed. To remove surface dirt from engravings and mezzotints, the most effectual plan is to use bookbinder's paste; apply it with a paste brush to both the front and back of the print; the paste will take up the whole of the dirt, which will come away with the paste; remove that by immersing the print in a bath of plain water; it will come out as fresh as new. This plan is simple but efiicacious, and many a dollar has been earned by it. Dry as above directed. Superficial Markings, from lead pencils, etc., may be removed by rubbing the surface with fresh cut bread, in circular sweeps, lightly but firmly performed. Small grease spots may be removed by placing powdered French chalk over them, a piece of clean blotting paper over the chalk, and a hot iron over that. Do not have the iron too hot, or it may turn the grease dark. To remove ink stains, berry stains, etc., see the article on " Books and Paper." BOOKS AND PAPEK 805 BOOKS AND PAPER. BOOKS. T is one thing to buy books; it is quite another to intelligently j care for them. The following rules are well worth preserving by every one who handles books: middle, and never from the ends or cover. Always keep a borrowed book neatly covered with paper while in your pos- session. Never try to dry by a fire a book acci- dentally wet, but wipe off the moisture with a soft dry cloth and let it dry slowly. Never cut the leaves of a book or magazine with a sharp knife, as the edge will run into the print. Never lend a borrowed book, but re- turn it directly you get through with it so that the owner may not be deprived of its use. Always have a good index or cata- logue of the contents of your library. Never hold a book near a fire. Never lean or rest upon an open book. Never turn down the corners of leaves. Never touch a book with damp or soiled hands. Always keep your place with a thin book mark. Always place a large book on the table before opening it. Always turn leaves from the top with . the fore or middle finger. Never touch a book with a damp cloth or sponge. Never rub dust from books, but brush it off with a soft dry cloth or duster. Never close a book with a pencil, pad of paper, or anything else between the leaves. Always open a large book from the Books which are placed in a library should be thoroughly dusted 2 or 3 times a year, not only to keep them clean and fresh, but also to prevent any development of insects and to disclose signs of damp- ness. The interior of a book also requires care, though often neg- lected. On taking a book from the shelf, before opening it see if there is dust on the top edge. If it has trimmed edges blow off the dust, and then dust with a soft duster; if the edges are uncut, brush with a rather hard brush. In this way the dust will be kept from sifting into the book. If books are packed too tightly on the shelves their backs will be broken when they are taken down. Nothing spoils books more quickly than laying them open, face down, to pre- serve the place. Bookshelves should be covered with a dust sheet before a room is swept. Books which are not kept under glass may be guarded to some extent from dust by having strips of leather or cloth 2 or 3 inches deep, nailed along the edges of the shelves; also lay sheets of brown paper, a little wider than the books, along their tops. At the annual, housecleaning, books should be taken down and beaten, first singly and then, taking one book in each hand, strike them together two or three times, and then carefully dust them; then the shelves should be washed, scrubbed and thoroughly dried, before the books are put back. The 3 great enemies of hooks are insects, damp, and rats and mice. Every one knows how to guard against rats and mice. To preserve books, warm, dry air is required; dampness and excessive heat must be avoided. The more they are read the more easily they 806 BOOKS AND PAPER are preserved. It is said that the reason Russia leather never molds and is not affected by damp is because it is perfumed with tar of birch tree. Book cases or shelves made of cedar, cypress, sandal- wood, or any strongly aromatic wood, are a protection to books against insects. The Romans preserved valuable manuscripts with oil of cedar. Bindings brushed over with spirits of wine are preserved from mildew, and libraries may be preserved from the effects of mold and damp by using a few drops of any perfumed oil. Alum used in the bookbinder's paste, has a preservative effect, while oil of turpen- tine is much better. Aniseseed, bergamot, or anything strongly odoriferous, mixed in paste, preserves it indefinitely from the at- tacks of insects. Grease Spots. — These may be removed from the covers of bound books by laying fine pipeclay, magnesia or French chalk on both sides, and applying a hot iron; but take care that it is not too hot. Colored calf-skin may be treated the same way. Vellum covers which need cleaning may he made almost equal to new by washing with a weak solution of potash binoxalate, or, if not soiled, with warm water and soap. PAPER. Berry Stains. — -These may be removed from engravings, books or paper by subjecting them to the fumes of sulphur, or of sulphur matches. To Remove Grease Spots from Paper. — (1) Lay some fuller's earth, powdered chalk, blotting paper or magnesia on the paper, both above and below the spot; set on a hot flat-iron to melt the grease and it will be at once absorbed. Do not have the iron too hot, how- ever, or the paper will be discolored. Or (2) place a blotting paper underneath, and moisten the spots with a camel's hair pencil dipped in rectified spirits of turpentine; when dry, moisten with a little spirits of wine, which will remove any stain left by the turpentine. To Remove Oil Stains from Drawing Paper. — Apply a solu- tion of pearlash in the proportion of 1 oz. pearlash to 1 pint of water. To Remove Ink Stains from Paper (including that of books or engravings). — Use a solution of oxalic acid, citric acid, or tartaric acid; apply the solution, then dry with blotting paper. These acids remove writing ink, but do not affect printing ink. Javelle water will also take out ink stains. The Blue Lines on Paper. — The above preparations will also remove the hlue lines from writing paper. These can be ruled in again, if desired, by using ordinary bluing, mixed with water, and a little ox^gall added to make it flow. Finger or Thumb Marks on paper are often difficult to erase > the dirt being of a greasy nature and forced into the fibers of the paper. Remove slight stains with rubber or bread crumbs; for th© more difficult ones apply a jelly made of white or curd soap, leave it on some time and then immerse the paper in cold water and then gently brush it off with a soft brush; then rinse it in a weak acid water, and then again with cold water and size it again when dry. BOOKS AND PAPER 807 To Remove India Ink from Paper. — To remove a blot of this apply water with a camel's hair brush; leave on a few seconds, then make as dry as possible with blotting paper, and then rub carefully with India rubber. Repeat, if necessary, till all is gone. For lines, circles, etc., dip the ink leg of the instruments in water, open the pen rather wider than the line, and trace over the ink, using blotting paper and India rubber as for a blot; applicable to drawing paper, tracing paper, and tracing linen. If the surface is a little rough- ened thereby, polish it with your finger nail. To Split a Sheet of Paper. — Paste a piece of cloth to each side of the sheet to be split. When, perfectly dry, violently and without hesitation -pwW the two cloths apart; part of the paper will adhere to one, and part to the other. Wet and soften the paste, and the two pieces can be easily removed from the cloth. If there is only one copy of a newspaper article, and it is desired to paste it in a scrap book, it is convenient to know how to split it, and the process can be utilized in various ways. It will work if managed skilfully. To Take Creases out of Draiving Paper or an Engraving. — Lay it on a sheet of smooth, unsized white, paper, face downwards; then lay on top of it another slightly dampened sheet of the same paper, and pass a moderately warm flat=iron over it all. To Prepare Oiled Paper. — Brush the sheets over with boiled oil, in which a little shellac has been carefully dissolved over a slow fire; suspend them till dry. To Make Waterproof Paper. — Dissolve 8 oz. alum and 3| oz. castile soap in 2 quarts water; in another jar dissolve 2 oz. gum arable and 4 oz. glue in 2 quarts water; mix the solutions, heat slightly, dip in the single sheets, and hang up to dry. Waterproof Pasteboard. — This may be prepared with a mixture of 4 parts slacked lime in 8 of skimmed milk, with a little alum added. As soon as mixed, brush the pasteboard over with 2 succes- sive coatings; it becomes impervious to water. To Make Transparent Tracing Paper. — (1) Saturate ordinary writing paper with kerosene and wipe the surface dry. Or (2) dis- solve f oz. white beeswax in ^ pint turpentine; saturate the paper with this, and let dry 2 or 3 days. (3) Spirits of turpentine or ben- zoline will make paper transparent while wet with it; when dry it will be again opaque. To Make Paper Fireproof. — Prepare a strong solution of alum, steep the paper in it, and hang it up to dry. If not effectual the first time, repeat. Parchment Paper. — Take sulphuric acid, and mix in ^ its weight of water. A sheet of common writing paper dipped in this solution becomes somewhat like parchment, and for writing on is superior to animal parchment. It is fibrous, tough, hard and waterproof. Manuscripts, when almost illegible, may be renovated by washing them very lightly and carefully with a very weak solution of ferro- cyanide of potash in clean water. The writing will again appear. 808 BOOKS AND PAPER To Bestore Faded Writing. — Moisten the paper with water, and then brush it over with a solution of sulph-hydric ammonia. (See also the article on "Restoring Obliterated Ink.") Scent for Note Paper. — Take 1^ oz. powdered starch, 4 drops attar of roses, ^ oz. powdered orris root; mix together, and put it in little silk bags to be kept in the writing desk. When patterns orptapers roll, they can be flattened and smoothed by holding them before a hot fire without waiting to heat an iron. Playing Cards, to Clean. — Mix a little butter and flour into a paste, and rub the cards with it, using a piece of clean soft flannel; then rub them with flour alone on a clean piece of flannel. PARCHMENT AND VELLUM. Benzine, applied with a sponge, will remove almost every stain, and does not injure the texture in the least. On no account must parchment be washed in very hot water, or held before a fire, as it will shrivel up provokingly. Acetic acid is sometimes used to take out stains, but it injures the gloss and leaves the parchment hard when dry, so that it is not a very successful plan. To Make Parchment Transparent. — Soak a thin skin of it in a strong lye of wood ashes, often wringing it out till it becomes trans- parent; then strain it on a frame and let it dry. When dry, a coating on both sides with clear mastic varnish, diluted with spirits of tur- pentine, will improve it. WALL PAPER. Old paper should be removed from the walls before new is put on. It can be taken off easily by wetting it with saleratus water. Then brush over the walls with a weak solution of carbolic acid. The odor will soon disappear, and it will purify the walls and drive away insects. Should there be too much whitening on the walls, wet them with clear, water, and scrape with a scraper. Then apply a thin coat of sizing made by dissolving common glue in water. In selecting wall paper striking contrasts should be avoided; choose neutral tints and colors which harmonize with the surround- ings. Good taste may be displayed even if the paper is cheap. If the ceilings are low, paper with figures running perpendicularly will make them appear much higher. Before laying on the paper, if dirt or grease spots appear on the wall they should be washed off with weak lye. After jDapering a room no fire should be made in it for several days, or until the paper is perfectly dry. In buying paper get an extra roll — it will be useful later for repairs. For suitable pastes to use see our article elsewhere on "Pastes." To Clean Old Wall Poper.— (1) Blow off the dust with a bel- lows, and then take a loaf of stale bread (rye is best) cut it into pieces and, beginning at the top, go around tlie room, using the soft side of the bread and rubbing downwards, about 2 feet at a stroke. Rub lightly or you will rub the dirt in. Keep going round in this BOOKS AND PAPEK 809 way, and working down, until the paper is all gone over. This will remove dust, smoke, whitewash, etc., and make the paper look almost like new. (2) Another excellent way to clean wall paper is to put about 2 quarts of wheat bran in a coarse flannel bag, and rub the wall as above directed. (3) Rubbing old wall paper with a flannel cloth dipped in dry cornmeal, or oatmeal, will much improve its ap- pearance. A long handled brush, long enough to reach the ceilings, is as important to a good housekeeper as a broom. Brush the walls over in straight lines before sweeping; use either the brush itself, or have it covered with a clean soft cloth. This will keep the paper fresh and clean a long time. When the paper is only slightly soiled brush- ing it over with a broom or brush covered with clean calico cloth will make it look fresh and bright. It is easier than the use of stale bread which is best when the paper is very dirty. Change the cloth as often as it gets dirty. To Remove Gi^ease Spots. — Lay blotting paper over them and press with a hot flat-iron; this melts the grease, and the blotting paper absorbs it. Do not have the iron too hot. Or (2) treat as in the following paragraph. To Remove Oil Stains or Mai'ks Where People Have Rested Their Heads. — Mix pipeclay or fuller's earth to the consistency of cream, lay it on the spot, leave it till the next day, and remove it with a penknife or brush it off. If any trace remains repeat the op- eration. To Make a Size for Wall Paper. — Break up some glue small and put it into a pail; pour water over it and let it soak for a day Then add more water and boil up till dissolved; strain it through a cloth and try it on the paper. If it glistens it is too thick; if it soaks in it is too thin. Have plenty of size on the brush and apply very lightly for the first coat. Give 2 coats of size, and when dry, varnish with pale varnish. To Detect Arsenic in Wall Paper. — (1) Turn down an ordinary gas jet to a pinpoint, until it is wholly blue; then take a strip of the suspected paper one=sixteenth inch wide, and 2 or 3 inches long: when the edge of this paper is brought in contact with the outer edge of the gas flame a gray coloration (if arsenic is present) will be seen in the flame. The paper is burned a little, and the fumes given off' will have a garlic4ike odor, due to the vapor of arsenic acid. Now look at the charred end and it will be a bronze red. Place the charred end a second time, not too far in the flame, and the flame will be colored green. By this simple means, without apparatus, the presence of arsenic may be detected. (2) Or another method is to put a little strip of the suspected paper in a small saucer and cover it with ordinary household ammonia; after standing a few minutes a piece of lunar or stick caustic (nitrate of silver) should be dropped in; if a yellow precipitate forms, arsenic is present, and the paper is not fit to use. It is generally thought that only green colors con- tain arsenic, but in fact paper of any color may contain it. The only safe way is to take a sample and test, or have it tested before buying. 810 LEATHER If there is any question, refer it to a chemist, and make the dealer pay the fee. You can't afford to run risks in such a matter. Arsenic papers are certainly very injurious to the health. An Easy Way to Repair Small Breaks in Wall Paper. — A better and more satisfactory way than patching the paper, is to touch in the broken spots with paint. A set of children's paints is good for this purpose. Mix the tints until the same shade is obtained as the broken spot in the paper, and it will hardly be noticed. Several colors can be worked in if needed. Holes Broken in the Plaster. — These may be repaired by taking equal parts of plaster of paris and the common white sand used in families for scouring purposes; mix them to a paste with water. Fill the holes with this, and smooth it off with any flat or ordinary kitchen knife; it will speedily dry, and can then be papered over. If mixed with vinegar instead of water it will not "set" so quickly. Fill cracks with the wall cement given among our " Cements." To remove the smoke of a kerosene lamp from a ceiling see " Lamps." GILT CORNICES — To Clean.— Wash them with warm milk, and polish with chamois skin. LEATHER. ^^ ASTOB Oil for Leather. — Old leather can be partially reno- I \y vated by being impregnated with castor oil, and new leather I A) preserved thus, better than by any other process. It will ^^ render old boots soft and pliable and will not prevent them from taking blacking. It will double the wear of driving- belts used on machinery, and will make old fire hose soft as new. It will also preserve the leather from the attacks of rats and insects. Moldy Leather. — Remove the surface mold with a dry cloth, and with another cloth apply pyroligneous acid. Mildew on Leather. — Rub it gently with vaseline, to remove it. To Clean Buff Colored Leather. — Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid in 1 pint of water; wash well with this, and then rub on a little clean tallow. To Clean Morocco Leather. — (1) Sponge the leather over with warm, soapy water to remove all dust and dirt, and then rub it over with a piece of clean cloth dipped in glaire. (2) Strain the leather well over a board, and scour well with a stiff brush, using tepid water and soft soap, made slightly acid with oxalic acid; do not sat- urate the leather, but keep the board inclined, to let the water run off; when done, unstrain the leather and dry it in a cool place; when dry, rub a little oil lightly over the surface with a rag. To Restore the Lustre of Morocco. — Take a sponge, dip it in the white of an egg, and varnish the leather over. LEATHER 811 To Make Leather Vermin Proof. — Apply castor oil "mixed with tallow. Acids on Leather. — All acids and acid preparations destroy the life of leather. For preserving its life nothing better has ever been found than castor oil. ■ Patent and enameled leather will stick together if the glazed sides are placed together in warm weather. To separate them when thus stuck place the leather in a drying or other hot room; when hot they can be separated without injury; or spread them on a tin roof on a hot day and they will soon heat enough to separate. Any at- tempt to separate them without heating to a high degree will spoil them. To Tan or Cure Small Skins tvitJi the Fur on. — (1) Clean off the flesh thoroughly, and then spread butter all over the flesh side, and then tramp on them or otherwise work the butter thoroughly into the skin, until it is pliable and thoroughly cured. Skins thus treated are soft, pliable, and very satisfactory. (2) Take \ lb. alum, \ lb. sulphate of soda, 2 oz. sulphur, 2 oz. sulphate of potash, 3 oz. salt; mix all in 1 quart of water. Spread this on the flesh side, fold the skin in the middle, flesh to flesh; leave thus 3 or 4 days, and then hang up to dry. It will be soft, pliable, and well tanned. The above amount will do for 1 dogskin, sheepskin, calfskin, etc. Double the amount for a small hide for a robe; heavier hides in proportion. (3) For a sheepskin for a rug, boil the skin in a suds containing a little sal soda; then soak over night in a solution of ^ lb. each of alum and common salt, with just enough water to cover. Then tack it to a smooth surface, flesh side out, to dry, and while damp sprinkle it with jjowdered alum and saltpetre. In a few days scrape it with pumice stone, when it will become soft and pliable. Line with heavy flannel, and scallop the edges, allowing these to project enough to give a pretty ornamental finish to the rug. To Make Glaire. — (1) Whip up the white of eggs and allow it to stand; pour off the clear liquid and that is what is used. (2) Beat the whites of eggs with an equal quantity of water, and add a little sugar candy. To Make Leatlier Waterproof. — Coat it with a solution of India rubber and boiled linseed oil. CHAMOIS SKIN, TO WASH.— Eub plenty of soft soap into the skin, and then soak it for 2 hours in a weak solution of soda and warm water; then rub till it is quite clean, and rinse well in a weak solution of warm water, soda, and yellow soap. If rinsed in clear water alone it will become hard; it is the little soap left in the leather which enables it to become soft like silk. After rinsing, wring well in a rough towel, dry quickly, and then j)ull and brush it thoroughly. It will be better than most new leather, and this is the best way \o clean it. Chamois ja(_kets or aiuj chamois arti- cle can be cleaned this way. 812 LEATHEE The Chamois is a species of antelope about the size of a large goat. It is found in the Alps and in the mountains in the west of Asia. The flesh is highly esteemed, but it is principally prized for its skin. The skin was dressed with oil and made very pliable, but now the skins of goats, deer and sheep are treated in the same way and sold for chamois skin. The leather is very useful. CARE OF BOOTS AND SHOES— By taking a little care of boots and shoes they can be made to wear much longer, and they will always look better. Do not use much of the dressings so fash- ionable for ladies' and children's shoes — most of them crack the leather and ruin it. Do not leave shoes kicking about when not in use, but on taking them off, air them a while, brush off the mud or dirt, oil or polish them, put them in a box or shoe bag, and when wanted they will be in good condition. The family shoe bill can be reduced ^ by a little intelligent care. Acid Blackings. — These are generally used for boots and shoes until every particle of oil in the leather is destroyed. To remedy this, wash off the blacking and apply castor oil; then set away for 1 or 2 days. This will renew the elasticity and life of the leather and prevent its cracking. Oil blackings are best for boots and shoes, as acid blacking destroys the life of the leather. Caj^e of Kid Boots. — For an excellent polish beat up the white of an egg with an equal quantity of water and a little sugar candy; if well made it is quite transparent and not at all sticky. It is good for all fine leather, especially kid. Touch up kid boots with a mix- ture of castor oil and ink. The ink blackens and the oil softens them, and keeps them in fine condition. Or, to restore the color, mix a little good polish blacking with the white of an egg, and apply. To Clean White Satin Shoes. — These should be kept closely wrapped in blue paper — they will not bear exposure to the air. When slightly soiled, they may be cleaned with stale bread or corn meal; if very dirty, wipe lengthwise of the satin with a clean flannel dipped in spirits of wine, or with gasoline. To Clean Patent Leather Shoes. — Wipe off mud, etc., with a sponge moistened with lukewarm water and afterwards rub with a soft cloth or old silk handerchief. Rub occasionally with a little milk, or sweet oil, and soft cloth. Black and polish the edge of the sole in the usual way, but without covering the patent leather top. Patent leather cracks easily when cold, so it should be kept warm. To Clean Tan Shoes. — Dissolve a tablespoon of salt in warm water; mix with it 1 pint cold water, in which 1 oz. salts of lemon has been dissolved. Wash the boots or shoes with a little of this preparation and dry them well. Polish them off afterwards with soft flannel, or an old silk handkerchief. To Clean Top Boots. — Clean the lower part in the usual way, but protect the top by inserting a fold of cloth under the edges and bringing it up over them. When cleaning the top let this covering fall down over the lower part. Clean the top by washing with soap and flannel, and rub out any spots with pumice stone. If the tops are wanted whiter, dissolve 1 oz. of oxalic acid, A oz. of muriatic LEATHER ^ 813 acid, ^ oz. of alum, |- oz. of gum arable, and | oz. of spirit of lav- endar. In 1| pints of skimmed milk " turned." Apply by means of a sponge, and polish when dry, with a rubber or soft flannel. Brown Leather may be cleaned with this last preparation. Wash for Boot Tops. — Mix In a phial 1 drachm of chlorate of potash with 2 oz. distilled water, and, when the potash Is dissolved, add 2 ox. of muriatic acid. Then shake well together In another phial, 3 oz. of strong spirits of wine, with ^ oz. of essential oil of lemons; then unite the contents of the two phials, and keep the liquid thus prepared closely corked for use. This liquid should be applied with a clean sponge, then dried with a gentle heat, and pol- ished with a soft brush. The tops will appear like new leather. To Restore Color to Leather. — Take a small quantity of good black ink, mix it with the white of an q^^, and apply with a sponge. To Soften the Leather. — To make the leather soft and pliable castor oil is better than any other. A teaspoon of castor oil rubbed into shoes by the fire when they are new, and repeated occasionally afterwards, will add greatly to their wear. To Ease Boots Slightly Tight at the Heel. — Rub the inside of the heel with dry soap. To Tie a Shoestring. — Jb^irst tie a single (not double) bow=knot; then using the long end of the string, and the loop or bow already formed, tie them into a bow-knot. A firm knot will result which will not untie of itself. To Make Boots and Shoes Wear. — Turn the boots or shoes bottom upwards and see that the soles are dry. If new, scrape the black off the bottom of the heel. Then apply, a few hours apart, as many coats of thin varnish as will soak in. The second day after applying the last coat begin to wear the boot so that it will shape itself to the foot while moist. This will make the soles waterproof and greatly increase their wear. For the uppers, apply while warm, 4 parts of lard to 1 of resin, well mixed. If two pairs of shoes are worn alternately, allowing 1 pair to rest while the other is worn, they will wear much longer than if 1 pair is worn continually. Taking off the shoes worn in the street, when in the house, is both restful, and gives the shoes a chance to air and dry. Drying Wet Boots. — Fill them with oats, instead of drying before the fire. These absorb the moisture and keep the boots in shape. Shake out the oats next day. Or, stuff them with paper to keep them in shape. Never dry wet boots or shoes quickly before the fire — it hardens them. Dry them slowly. To Soften Wet Boots and Shoes. — Take 1 gill linseed oil, 1 oz. spirits of turpentine, ^ oz. Burgundy pitch, and 1 oz. beeswax; melt together, and rub into the leather, when quite dry, before the fire. Good also for preserving leather from rain and sea water. Applying castor oil is also excellent; l^erosene is sometimes used, but is not so good. 814 WOODENWAKE To Stop Squeaking. — (1) Soak the soles for a couple of hours in linseed oil. (2) Drive a couple of pegs in the middle of the soles. (3) Shake a little French chalk through a small hole made in the inner sole. Waterproof Soles for Shoes. — Melted beeswax, thinned with sweet oil, and poured with a spoon onto the soles of shoes or boots, warmed before the fire, until no more will soak in, will make them waterproof and much more durable. Shoe Dressing .^Take 1 oz. gum shellac, ^ oz. borax, 1 packet slate Diamond die, and 1 pint boiling water; cut the shellac in a little alcohol, or put it in a dish and set it over boiling water till dis- solved. Moisten the dye in a little cold water, then pour over the boiling water and dissolve the borax in the same; then add this, while hot, to the dissolved shellac, and thoroughly mix them together; bottle for use while warm. A good dressing and easily made at home. Waterproof Dressing. — Take 1 pint of drying oil, 2 oz. yellow wax, 2 oz. turpentine, ^ oz. Burgundy pitch; melt together over a slow fire. Apply with a sponge and the boots will be waterproof, and will never shrivel. Waterproof Blacking. — Put \ lb. of shellac in a large nosed bottle, and cover it with alcohol; cork it and leave for a few days until fully cut Then add \ oz. of lampblack, and a heaping table- spoon of gum camphor, and let stand 3 or 4 days, stirring it occasion- ally until well dissolved. Apply with an old cloth to the leather. Japan Blacking for Boots and Shoes. — Take 8 parts of mo- lasses, 1 part of lampblack, 1 part of sweet oil, 1 part of gum arable, 1 part of isinglass, 82 parts water, 1 oz. spirits of wine, and a little ox^gall. Mix the molasses, lampblack, sweet oil, gum and isinglass in the water; set over the fire to heat, stirring it well; add the spirits of wine and ox-gall, and bottle as soon as possible, Apply with a sponge, and warm the bottle before using. Polish. — Take of ivory=black and molasses each 4 oz., sulphuric acid 1 oz., best olive oil 2 spoonfuls, best white wine vinegar 3 cups; mix the ivory=black and molasses well in an earthen jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture; next pour in the oil; and lastly add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees until thor- oughly incorporated. A good polish — better than many sold in stores, but it is an acid blacking. WOODENWARE. X j / O Take the Woody Taste Out of New Woodenware. — Scald W ( it out first with boiling hot water, and leave it in until it SJ I (c) gets cold; then empty it out. Next make a lye of warm water and soda (say 1 lb. soda to |- barrel of soft water) and to this add a little lime; wash out the article thoroughly with this mixture. Then take clear hot water and scald it out again, and finally rinse it out well with clean cold water. WOODENWARE 815 To Sweeten Woodenware. — An excellent thing to sweeten woodenware is hay water; charcoal is also good. New Woodenware. — New wooden articles should be prepared for domestic use by a thorough soaking in cold water, and scalding them afterwards. A new wooden bowl put into a large kettle of cold brine and heated to the boiling point and then allowed to cool, will be less likely to crack. It is an excellent plan to grease a new M^ooden bowl inside and out, before it is used at all; let it stand 1 or 2 days to soak in, and then scour well until quite clear from grease. Washing Woodenware. — Wash utensils made of wood at once after being used, because if grease and dirt are once allowed to soak into the wood it may be impossible to restore them. Wash wooden- ware with lukewarm water and soap, adding a little soda; then rinse with cold water, and wipe as dry as possible. In washing a wooden bowl dry it well with a cloth, and then set it away in a cool jjlace. Never dry it near the fire, as that cracks it. Drying Woodemoare. — In drying any woodenware, like mold- ing^boards, chopping^bowls, etc., never put them near the fire after being washed. Dry them with a cloth and then put them in a cool place, as they may crack and warp if exposed to dry heat while damp. Pails and Tubs. — These may be kept from shrinking by saturat- ing them with glycerine. A pail of water put into a tub as soon as you are through using it will l^eep it from warping. Scald out woodenware often, say once a week for pails in active use, using boil- ing hot water and soda. Two or three coats of copal varnish applied to the inside of new wooden pails will keep them from water soaking, or from flavoring the water. Wooden Spoons. — These can be kept from splitting if as soon as bought, and before being used, they are greased thoroughly with lard or butter; let it soak in well, laying them near the fire to effect it. Treat loooden forks the same way. Incombustible Varnish for Wood. — Make a solution of equal parts of isinglass and alum, apply it to the wood and let dry. Fluids can be boiled over an ordinary fire in a wooden vessel thus coated. Casks. — Before being filled these should be scalded out with boiling water, allowed to cool, and examined as to their cleanliness. If a cask smells sour, especially in summer weather, put in dry lime through the bung=hole, breaking it up into small pieces, and put in perhaps 4 lbs. to a barrel; then put in about 4 gallons of boiling water, bung it up, and leave several hours, occasionally rolling it about. Then empty it out, wash out the cask well, steam it, let it cool, and it will be fit to contain anything. Another way to treat a musty cask is to burn a little sulphur in it while empty, close the bung, and let it stand a day or so. Casks in which the inside has been charred will preserve water, salt meat, etc., for some time. To Clean Cider Casks. — (1) Half fill with boiling water, add ^ lb. pearlash, bung up, turn over occasionally for two days, empty, and wash with boiling water. (2) Scald out with boiling water; if 816 FEATHERS AND HAIR the heads are out put the cask over a fire of straw for a few minutes so as to slightly char the inside. If you have a steam boiler, partly fill the cask with water, put a steam pipe through the bung-hole into the water, turn on the steam, and so boil it. Barrels, to Clean. — Put into the barrel a few lbs. of unslacked lime, add water and close tight; let stand awhile, then put in more water and roll the barrel; then empty it and rinse out thoroughly with clean water. To Clean Old Vinegar Barrels. — Fill them with milk of lime and leave it in for several months; then rinse them out thoroughly with warm water, and steam the inside for \ hour. Old vinegar bar- rels become so impregnated with acetous substances that it is diffi- cult to render them fit for storing other liquids. FEATHERS AND HAIR FEATHERS. BATHERS, To Clean and Purify.— Vui the feathers from beds, pillows, etc., in bags, soak them ^ hour or so in boiling hot water containing soda, then rinse them well through 2 or 3 waters and put them through a wringer; shake them up and dry in the hot sun, turning occasionally and drying them as rapidly as possible, until apparently dry, and then lay them in a warm oven on a board or paper till light and dry. Feather jyillows laid out on clean grass till thoroughly wet through during a heavy rain storm will be made fresh and light; dry in the shade, but never expose them to the direct rays of the sun. A Hint. — Bed ticking which is so thick that the air cannot pen- etrate it readily should have a goose quill sewed in each corner to admit the air, and thus ventilate the feathers. To Clean Feathers from their Own Animal Oil. — Steep them in 1 gallon of water mixed with 1 lb. of lime; stir them well, and then pour off the water, and rinse the feathers in cold spring water. To clean feathers from dirt, simply wash them in hot water with soap; rinse in hot water, and dry them. JSFeio goose featliers which have a disagreeable odor may be freed from it by washing them in water with baking soda; then rinse them in water containing ammonia, then twice in clear water; run through the wringer, and dry. Swansdoiun. — This may be cleaned by tacking strips on a piece of muslin; then wash it well, using the best white soap and warm water. Rinse in clean cold water, and dry in the wind. Then soften the feather by carefully rubbing it between the fingers, after taking it off from the muslin. It will look like new. To Clean White Ostrich Fecdhers. — Prepare a thick, warm lather of white soap; let the feathers soak in this a few minutes FEATHERS AND HAIR 817 (have a pan long enough to let the feathers lay straight), and then draw the feathers through the fingers, using a moderate degree of pressure, and repeating until they are clean; rinse in clear, warm water to take out the soap, and then in another water containing a little bluing, and a few drops of spirits of salt; then draw through the fingers to squeeze out all the water possible, shake well, and dry before a moderate fire, shaking occasionally. When dry, curl them. Foi' c7-eam colored fectthers wash as above, but omit the bluing and add a little coffee to the last water in which they are rinsed. Afterwards the edges may be very prettily tinted by using an old red rose leaf, moistened a little. Darker colored feathers can be washed in the same way, but neither bluing nor coffee should be used in the rinsing water. Grehe Fecdhers. — These may be washed with warm soft water and white soap, much like white ostrich feathers, but do not shake them until quite dry. The Gbebe is widely distributed over both the old and new world. Its shape is peculiar, the legs being at- gkebe. tached so far back that when on land the bird assumes an erect laosture. The great crested grebe is highly prized for the beautiful, shiny, silvery feathers on the lower part of its body which are in great demand. To Curl Ostrich Plumes.— (1) Heat them over a hot stove or flat-iron, and, using a bone, ivory or dull silver blade, draw the fibers of the feather between .the finger and the dull edge of the blade; begin at the point of the plume, and take not more than 3 fibers at a time; curl ^ of them the opposite way. If the stem needs bending, hold it around a warm stove pipe or lamp chimney. (2) Another and easy way to curl plumes is to put sugar or salt on a hot stove, or corn cobs and salt on a pan of coals, and hold the plume in the smoke, shaking it about, and turning every part to the smoke; the more you shake the plume the better it will look; be careful not to scorch it. Broken Feathers. — A broken feather may be repaired by sewing bonnet wire along the under side nicely, choosing silk thread that matches the color of the plume, and using a long button=hple stitch. Cleaning the Feathers on Stuffed Birds. — (1) Naturalists clean the feathers of stuffed specimens of birds by covering them over with a thin paste made of common starch and cold water. Let it dry a couple of days, and then "filliiD" it off gently, beginning at the bird's head and going on regularly down to the tail, which leaves the feath- ers beautifully "plumed." (2) Feathers on stuffed specimens are also cleaned by putting on them a paste made of pipeclay and water, rubbing them one way only; when quite dry shake off the powder. "Setting"' Feathers. — Feathers on stuffed birds may be "set" by merely arranging them naturally with a needle, or any pointed instru- ment. 52 818 CLOTHING AND CLOTH To Bleach Feathers. — (1) First remove the oily matter by im- mersing them for a short time in naptha or benzine; then rinse them in the same a second time, and thoroughly dry them by exposure to the air. Then bleach them by exposing them to the vapor of burn- ing sulphur, in a moist atmosphere. This process will not injure the feathers. (2) Prepare a warm soapsuds (at 175° to 185°) and soak the feathers in it a few hours; then suspend them on a thread and expose them to the direct rays of the ^sun, moistening them fre- quently. Dying Feathers. — Feathers may be dyed beautifully by using the aniline dyes that are put up for dying Easter eggs, etc., and which can be bought at the stores. Various colors can be bought, and many shades may be produced by combinations of them, and by diluting them more or less with water. To produce grey feathers, with white spots, fasten thick paper on the places designed to be white, and spatter the balance nicely and evenly with India ink or brown aniline. CURLED HAIR — To clean this, select a pleasant day and take the hair out of the mattress carefully so as not to be choked with the dust. Pick it over thoroughly and wash it through strong soapsuds several times, doing only a little at a time. Then rinse thoroughly; wring as dry as jpossible, and spread it out thinly between 2 sheets of muslin. Then baste the ends, and quilt it in a few places in the middle, and hang it out to dry. Choose an empty room to do it in, because of the dust it makes. CLOTHING AND CLOTH. 'LOTHING of any kind will last very much longer when prop- erly cared for, than it will when carelessly handled and neg- lected. It is surprising how heedless some people are about the care of their clothes, and how much can be saved in the clothing bill of a family by a little intelligent care. The quantity of clothes should be considered. It is a great mis- take to think that in order to dress well it is necessary to have a very large wardrobe. Too many clothes are worse than useless. They lie anused, soon go out of style, and no benefit is derived from them. To dress well at moderate expense, get what clothes you need, and no more; take good care of those you have, and when they wear out, buy more. This is equally true of underclothing and outside gar- ments. Sensible people no longer pride themselves on possessing larger stocks of any garments than they really need. In caring for clothes as in so many other things, it is of the first importance to have a place for everything, and to put everything in its place. This is at times a little difiicult in small houses where one is crowded for room, and yet even here a little planning and manage- ment will often accomplish wonders. Any one with the spirit of order will find vastly more room than a disorderly and thoughtless CLOTHING AND CLOTH 819 person would think possible. Devise shoe bags, and the many other conveniences which the ingenious housewife can make herself and utilize so well. Never put clothing of any kind away without first cleaning it. Look it over also, and make any little repairs that may be needed. Clothing which is put away in good condition will come out fresh and bi'ight, but if ijut away dusty and dirty, the dust will take hold of it, and it will soon look seedy and ilhcared for. On taking off woolen goods, see that they are well shaken and brushed; let velvet and silk be wiped with a flannel, and let merino, serge, cashmere, and similar fabrics be thoroughly brushed. Put a clothes brush in every bedroom, or provide enough so that there will be no excuse for any member of the family who neglects to use one. Silk dresses should never be brushed, but rub them with a soft piece of merino or flannel, kept for the purpose. If caught in the rain or when clothing becomes damp for any reason, give it immediate attention. Do not carelessly hang it up, but spread it out to dry, after shaking it well. If creases appear when it is dry, iron them out, but on no account put clothing away at all damp; that speedily causes mildew. As rain and damp speed- ily take the freshness and beauty out of garments, it is always wise to wear one's older clothes in unpleasant weather, reserving the best garments for pleasant days; the best clothes are not expected in unpleasant weather. Putting Aivay Clothing. — The manner of putting away clothes is important. All skirts, jackets, and waterproofs should have loops attached by which they can be hung. The bulging out occasioned by hanging directly on a hook spoils the appearance of a garment. If a skirt is provided with 3 bands--! on the right side, 1 on the left, and 1 at the back to hold up the drapery (as it should be) it is much better to hang it up, than to fold it and lay it away. The best way to deal with good dresses is to hang them by their loops in large bags made of old sheets. Make these bags to button down the front so that the dresses can be put in easily. Stuff out the bows and busts with papers — royal ladies always have their dresses put away thus, it is said. This will obviate all necessity for turning a dress inside out before hanging it up — a process which makes creases, spoils trimmings, and tends to make a skirt lie flat. When packing away silk or woolen goods which you fear may turn yellow, break up a few cakes of white beeswax, fold these pieces loosely in old thin handkerchiefs, and place them among the goods Pin the goods in old white linen sheets if you have them; if not, use cotton. Mantles, bodices and waistcoats should be neatly folded, so as to keep them as straight as possible, and laid flat on a shelf, covered with paper or muslin, to keep them from the dust. They should never be hung up. Cotton and muslin dresses should not be put away with the starch in them, as that tends to make them rot. Leave them rough= dried when they are not to be worn for some time. 820 CLOTHING AND CLOTH If silk garments are laid away wrapped in paper, do not use white, as the color of the silk may be impaired by the chloride of lime, which is used for bleaching white paper. The best paper to use is probably the yellow India paper, and next to that is brown or blue. Do not buy silk intended for dresses, long in advance of its use, as it is liable to crack or split,, if kept lying in folds long, espe- cially if it is stiffened with gum. Ribbons. — The best way to keep ribbons is to roll them round a block and then wrap them in soft paper. Creases. — These can usually be removed with a little effort. If a garment is hung before a fire they will often disappear. If not, dampen them a little, lay on a piece of paper or muslin, and press with a cool iron. At the close of each season go over the articles which have been worn, and sort out and dispose of them, instead of packing them all away together. Articles which can be worn again should be brush- ed, repaired, and put away; those which are to be pulled to pieces, should be so treated at once, and cleaned or dyed, as the case may be. If left as they are they will deteriorate in condition and occupy valuable room. Articles of no further use to you should be given to some poor person, or sold to the rag man. Having sorted out and cleaned the clothing, pack it away for the season. Fold it carefully so that no needless wrinkles will be formed, and pack it away in a chest or trunk. Put the heaviest articles at the bottom, and lay the others on carefully. A good way to pack them is to lay out a sheet in the trunk and lay on a news- paper; then lay in the clothing, sprinkling it well with camphor, cedar shavings, or any other moth preventive (see our article on insect pests), and then, covering it with a newspaper, draw the sheet together and pin it so that the edges all overlap each other. Then shut and fasten the chest or trunk. Menh Clothing. — This is quite as much benefited by care as that of ladies. Coats are best kept in shape by hanging them on the wire frames which are now so easily obtained, and are so cheap. When a frame is not used hang them by a loop, and not directly on the hook by the collar. Brush the coat carefully on taking it oflP, and before putting it away. On taking off trousers which have been worn in wet weather, and, possibly, turned up at the bottom, shake them, pull them out lengthwise, and dry them under pressure. Keep them hung up on the wire frames, made for the purpose, like the coat frames. A trousers stretcher will take out wrinkles and creases and is a good investment. If that is not used, nor the wire frames, fold them as the tailor folds them before they are laid away. Trousers, like shoes, wear longer, and keep in shape better, if 2 pairs are kept and worn alternately. Frequent changing and stretching between times, will keep them from becoming baggy at the knees. Another good plan for hanging them up is to have a pair of suspenders for each pair of trousers and, on taking off a pair, to hang them by the suspenders on CLOTHING AND CLOTH 821 2 hooks about as far apart as a man's shoulders. This keeps them in shape. Turning them inside out before hanging them up is another good plan. Biirning Clothing. — When the clothing takes fire the first im- pulse of the victim is to rush somewhere, but that is the worst thing to do, as it causes a draught and increases the flames. A bystander should throw the victim on the ground and then try to smother the flames by wrapping her in anything at hand, like a coat, rug, blanket or table cover. Try to keep the flames from the neck and face, and from being breathed, so wrap first at the shoulders and then work down. A lady who is alone in a house, and whose clothes take fire, should sieze anything at hand and at once lie down, wrapping herself in it and rolling over. In this way the flames may be extin- guished, but if she runs out into the air it will only make it worse. If the house was on fire she might run into the yard and throw her- self on the ground, but should go no further. At once throwing some flour, when it is convenient, on the clothing which is set on fire by an exploding lamp or the spilling of oil, may put out the flames and prevent a terrible accident. Fireproof Cloiliing. — The following plans for rendering cloth- ing uninflammable are the results of many exiDcriments, and are taken largely from French and German authorities. Children's clothing and muslin dresses, should be flreproofed when laundered. (1) Put 1 or 2 oz. of alum in the last water used in rinsing chidren's clothes. It renders them less inflammable. (2) Take 8 parts sul- phate of ammonia, 2^ parts carbonate of ammonia, 2 parts boracic acid. If parts borax, 2 parts starch, and 100 parts water; mix, and starch the dresses with this compound. (8) Take 5 parts boracic acid, 15 parts sal ammoniac, 5 parts felspar, 1^ parts gelatine, 50 parts starch, and 100 parts water; mix, and apply with a brush. (4) Mix 5 parts alum, 5 parts ammonium phosphate, and 100 parts water, (5) Take 3 x^arts borax, 2| parts Epsom salts, 20 parts water. (6) Use a more or less concentrated solution of sulphate of potassium and alum. (7) If fabrics are steeped in almost any saline solution, such as alum, borax, sal ammoniac, etc., they will not take fire read- ily, and if ignited will not burst into flames. A simple plan is to add about 1 oz. of alum to the last water used to rinse a dress, or set of bed furniture; even a less quantity added to the starch used to stiffen them will answer, and may prevent a painful accident. Waterproofing Cloth. — (1) Dissolve, separately, equal parts of alum, soap, and isinglass, in sufficient water to make a tolerably strong solution. Then mix all together, and apply the mixture on the wrong- side, thoroughly saturating the cloth; then dry it. Then brush the cloth thoroughly, first with a dry brush, and afterwards lightly with a brush dipped in a little water. (2) Cloth coated with linseed oil, to which a little wax and litharge have been added, will be waterproof. To Prepare Oiled Silk. — Melt and mix well together, 1 part beeswax, 3 parts ground litharge, 15 parts boiled oil; add 3 parts of 822 CLOTHING AND CLOTH some coloring matter if desired. Stretch the silk out tight in breadths, and apply the mixture with a brush till it is well saturated; when dry, the silk will be perfectly waterproof. Velvet. — Make up articles in velvet the reverse way of the pile, that is so the pile inclines upwards; this will prevent their looking white. To Restore Crushed Velvet. — Crushed velvet may be restored, that is, the pih may be raised when it is crushed or flattened, by well steaming the wrong side over the spout of a boiling tea-kettle; or, cover a hot flat=iron with a wet cloth, and hold the velvet, nap outside, firmly over it, thus steaming it; then gently comb up the nap. Cuts or faults in velvet or plush are concealed by very careful seaming on the wrong side. Insert the needle half the thickness of the material, leaving no stitches visible on the upper surface, and the sewing is drawn till the edges just meet, and no more. Be care- ful to work in all stray filaments, so that no fluffiness disturbs the smoothness of the pile. Faded Plush or Aniline Dyed Articles. — When, from expos- ure to light, plush goods, or a,n3^ articles dyed with aniline colors, become faded, if they are sponged over with chloroform their color will be fully restoreti. Use commercial chloroform, which is cheaper than the purified. Marks on Plush. — These may be removed by holding the wrong side over steam, and combing up the pile. Dress Mending. — Instead of patching a round hole in a silk or woolen dress, carefully smooth the frayed parts about the tear, spread thin mucilage or the gum tragacanth paste given among our pastes, on the under side, lay on a piece of the same cloth, place on a heavy weight and let it dry. The patch can hardly be noticed. GLOVES — Care of Gloves. — When taken ofP they should be smoothed out lengthwise and laid away flat. Keep them dry, and away from the light and air. Gloves rolled together after being taken ofP will soon look shabby. If gloves do not go on readily, breathe in them, or warm them gently before the fire, or lay. them for 3 or 4 minutes in a damp (not wet) towel. Do not attempt to put on the thumb until the fingers are in, working them quite to the end. To Clean Kid Gloves. — (1) White and light colored kid gloves may be cleaned by putting them on, and, filling a bowl with corn- meal, dip in the hands and rub them thoroughly with the meal, as though washing the hands; or dip a piece of flannel in the meal and thoroughly rub it on the gloves. It cleans them nicely. -Undressed kid may be best cleaned in the same way. (2) Dip a piece of flannel in milk, and then rub it on good glycerine or yellow soap, and, be- ginning at the wrists, rub towards the tips of the fingers; first, how- ever, lay the gloves out smoothly on a clean cloth. Leave till dry, then pull gently in all directions till soft. If the gloves have been made too wet, they must be fitted on the hands again when half dry. CLOTHING AND CLOTH 823 (3) Put the gloves on, and wash the hands in gasoline or benzine. This cleans kid well, especially white, but fades some colors. The unpleasant odor soon evaporates. ■ (4) Rubbing with stale bread crumbs cleans gloves sufficiently sometimes. To Renovate Black Kid. — Mix a little good black ink with a little castor or salad oil; apply it with a sponge or flannel, and dry in the sun. Dying Gloves. — Light colored kid gloves may be dyed black as follows: Take a bowl, put in ^ cup of logwood chips, cover them with alcohol, and let stand 24 or 48 hours. Then put on the gloves, take a piece of flannel and di^J it in the solution, and rub it on the gloves over every part; let it dry, and repeat the operation. To dye yelloiv. — A simple decoction of onion peel is said to produce upon glove leather an orange yellow superior to any other. Aniline col- ors can be employed without any previous preparation of the leather. The bluish tint so much liked in black gloves, is obtained by wash- ing the finished article with a solution of sal ammoniac. White gloves may be given a pretty shade, by dipping them in strong coffee. Buckskin Gloves. — To clean: (1) Wash 3 times in clean (not hot) soap lather. Put in a little blue, wring them well, and put them in as good form as you can; when nearly dry, but sufficiently damp to form to the hand, put them on (if difficult to get them on dampen a little ) ; then press or push them off, dry, away from the fire, and they will be as good as new. (2) Take \ lb. Paris white, ^ lb. scraped pipeclay, and 3 oz. best isinglass; boil all together, stir- ring while boiling. Lay this compound on thick; when dry, beat it out by clapping the hands well together, brushing, etc. Then care- fully iron the gloves with a hot smoothing iron. Washleather Gloves. — Take out grease spots by rubbing with magnesia or cream of tartar. To wash (1) make a strong lather with curd soap and warm water; lay the glove flat on a board or other un- yielding surface; dip a piece of flannel in the soap lather, and rub the glove thoroughly, in every part, till all the dirt is out, then rinse, first in warm water and then in cold. Dry in the sun or before a moderate fire. (2) Put the gloves on the hands and wash them with soap and lukewarm water. When quite clean, pull them off care- fully, and lay them in the sun to dry; put them on before they are quite dry, and stretch them to keep them from getting hard. Suede, Buckskin or Chamois Gloves are sometimes cleaned by rubbing them with stale bread crumbs. Or mix powdered alum and fuller's earth, dip a stiff brush in the mixture and rub the gloves with it. Cloth Gloves. — To clean these, pour in a bowl a little of the cleaning compound No.. 3, given elsewhere, and wash the gloves in it; when nearly cleaned rinse them in a clean lot of the same solution; if very dirty rinse again; then rub with a soft flannel cloth to smooth out the wrinkles, and dry them. Gloves of all kinds are better and more shapely if put on wood- en hands or glove trees to dry, when wet by washing them. 824 CLOTHING AND CLOTH BONNETS AND HATS.— To Clean Straiv Bonnets.— They may be washed with soap and water, then rinsed in clean water, and dried in the air. Afterwards wash them over with white of egg, well beat- en. The wires must be removed before washing. (2) Wash white straw hats with a citric acid solution, as directed for men's white straw hats (which see). (3) Black hats can be washed with clear strong coffee, then apply 8 coats of good liquid shoe polish or blacking, let- ting each coat dry before applying the next. The hat will look like new. To Dye Straiv Bonnets. — For Black: boil 2 lbs. logwood and ^ lb. fustic together for 4 hours; remove all wires, and boil the bonnets in this first; then add \ lb. green copperas, and reboil the articles 1 hour longer, expose them to the air for 10 minutes, then place them in the liquid again for 1 hour; then dry and brush. This will suffice for 12 bonnets. For Broimi: take ^ lb. fustic chips, \ lb. of peach wood, ^ oz. of madder; boil these for 4 hours; add \ lb. of green copperas; boil for 2 hours; dry and brush. For Gray: boil f oz. of cudbear for 8 hours; add 2 oz. blue paste; mix with as much water as will cover the bonnets; let them remain in soak 10 clear days; rinse and dry, and they are ready for blocking. This is sufficient for 6 bonnets. For red: prepare a potash lye, and boil in it some ground Brazilwood, making it strong or weak to suit; then put in the straw goods, and boil them. Size for Colored Straiv Bonnets. — Break up 1 lb. best glue, put into a vessel with 4 quarts cold water, and let soak for not less than 12 hours. Then pour it, water and all, into a sauce=pan, and put it over the fire to dissolve; keep it well stirred, and be careful not to let it boil. When it is all well melted strain it into an earthenware pan, and use it while scalding hot. The bonnets as they are taken out of this size must be sponged as dry as possible, the shape regulated, and then hung up to dry. This quantity is sufficient for 12 bonnets. Parchment Size for Straio Bonnets, Silks, Etc — Well wash 1 lb. of parchment shavings or cuttings, in 2 or more lots of cold water; then put them into a sauce^pan, or other vessel, with 4 quarts of cold water, and let them simmer gently until the quantity is reduced to 2 quarts. Strain through a fine sieve and it is ready for use. One tea- cup of this is sufficient to stiffen 1 bonnet, or to mix with 1 quart of water for finishing silks. To Bleach Chip and Straw Goods. — First clean, by washing in warm soap liquor; brush them well, both inside and out, then rinse them well in cold water, and they are ready for bleaching. To Bleach. — (1) Put a small quantity of oxalic acid into a clean pan, and pour on it sufficient scalding water to cover the bonnet or hat. Put the article into this liquor, and let it remain in it for about 5 minutes; keep it covered by holding it down with a clean stick. Dry in the sun or before a clear fire. (2) Having first dried the bonnet or hat put it, together with a saucer of burning sulphur, into a box with a tight closing lid. Cover it over to keep in the fumes, and let it remain a few hours. The disadvantage of bleaching with sulphur is that articles so bleached soon become yellow; when bleached by CLOTHING AND CLOTH 825 oxalic acid they do not. To Finish or Stiffen. — After cleaning and bleaching, white bonnets should be stiffened with parchment size. Black or colored bonnets are stiffened with a size made from the best glue. Straw or chip plaits, or Leghorn hats and bonnets may also be cleaned and bleached, and finished as above. Black Varnish for Chip and Straw Goods. — A good black var- nish is easily prepared for chip and straw goods which gives them a fine gloss. Crush 2 oz. good black sealing-wax, and put it in a bottle; add 8 oz. 95° alcohol. Cork and set in a warm place, shaking it from time to time until the sealing-wax is cut. When it is applied have both the article and varnish warm. Felt Hats. — Wash them with a hot solution of soda, or sesqui- carbonate of ammonia. Then, if white, cover the hat with a paste made of pipeclay and water, tempered with white precipitated chalk. When dry, rub and brush off. See also the cleaning compound No. 3, given elsewhere, for a good article to use. Grease and ptaint stains can be removed with turpentine; if the turpentine leaves a mark, rub with alcohol or benzine. To Make Felt Hats Wcderproof. — Remove the lining, and paint the inside of the hat with Canada balsam, made hot. Hats made waterproof and not ventilated will bring on premature baldness, so punch a few small holes in the side. Men's White Straw Hats. — These may be readily cleaned by (1) using a nail brush and brushing them over quickly with soap and water, then press them into shape and they will be stiff when dry. (2) Sponge them with a solution of 1 part citric acid to 20 parts water (some people rub them with a lemon cut in two); then rinse thoroughly with clean water and dry in the sun, and they will be beautifully bleached. Stiffen, if needed, with gum water. Black straw hats in being cleaned should be dusted and brush- ed; they may then be rubbed all over with a mixture of good black ink and liquid glue. To Renovate Hat Bands. — Take 8 oz. alcohol and dissolve in it 2 oz. aqua ammonia, 2 oz. sulphuric ether, and 3 oz. white castile soap; rub this on briskly with a tooth-brush or cloth, and then rinse ojffi with soft water, and dry. A JVet Silk Hat. — Shake off the surplus water, and, with an old soft silk handkerchief, rub it gently the way of the nap; then hang it up in a warm room, away from the fire, to dry. When dry, brush it with a soft brush, and with a moderately hot flat=iron smooth it around the way of the nap. Bulges or indentations in a silk hat may be removed by warm- ing it (by steam is preferable) and pressing them out with a hot iron; attempts to restore the shape by other means will probably result in cracking the hat. Label children'' s hats plainly with the name and place of resi- dence of the wearer; then if the child is lost it can be readily return- ed to its home. 826 CLOTHING AND CLOTH UMBRELLAS — Wet umbrellas should be placed handle down- ward to dry. In that way they dry uniformly. If stood handle up- wards the water will gather at the lowest point and the lining will hold the moisture and cause the silk to rot. Do not leave them open to dry; the tense condition stiffens the silk and it cracks sooner. If tightly rolled and put in umbrella cases, the friction of the case wears many tiny holes. Many an umbrella is ruined by being wedged into a crowded umbrella stand. Keep your umbrella in your own room, out of the case, and stood handle down; thus you will get the most possible wear out of it. To clean ivory and metal hand- les see our articles on "Ivory" and "Metals." PARASOLS. — To renovate them, sponge with warm soap and water, and iron them, while damp, on the inside, with a smoothing iron. If the silk is very dirty it will be better to sponge it with gin, or spirits of wine; in this case, iron on the right side, first spreading on thin paper to prevent glazing. FUR, To Clean. — (1) Soap and water will spoil fur. Get some clean common whiting (powdered, and plenty of it) and put it in a damp place for a day or so, but on no account let it get wet; rub it into the fur with the hand, and don't be afraid to ru.b it; then leave it till next day, and give it another good rubbing; then shake out all the whiting you can, and give it a good brushing with a clothes brush. It will now be quite clean, except the skin at the bottom of the fur. To remove the dirt from thence, get the fur over the back of a chair, and brush very briskly with the point of the clothes brush, giving a puff of wind with every stroke of the brush. With a little patience every trace of whiting, grease and dirt can be removed. Lastly, pour a little spirits of wine on a plate, dip the point of the clothes brush in this, and pass it lightly over the fur, moving the brush the way the fur lies. (2) Take equal parts of flour and powdered salt (which should be well heated in an oven) and thoroughly rub the fur. It should afterwards be well shaken, to free it from the flour and salt. (3) Lay the fur on a table, and rub it well with bran, made moist with warm water. Rub until quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran. The moist bran should be put on with flannel, and the dry with a piece of book muslin, (4) Rub light=colored furs, in addition, with magnesia after the bran process. Dry flour may be used instead of the wet bran. Rub the wrong way of the fur to clean; then smooth the right way. The Beatek is found throughout North America. It is usually about 2 feet in length. Its fur is of a chestnut brown, and is very thick, short and soft. Its flesh is very oily, but is much esteemed for food. CLOTHING AND CLOTH 827 EBMINE. placed near Ermine may be renewed and cleaned by rubbing it from time to time as it becomes soiled, with cornmeal. It is also cleaned sometimes by rubbing in dry powdered starch. The Ekmine is a little animal much like the weasel. The best skins come from Russia, Norway and Sweden. The ermine is about 10 inches long, exclu- sive of its tail. In summer it becomes a reddish brown color and is then called Stoat. Ermine was long considered as the royal fur. It is very serviceable, as it wears well and can be cleaned many times. It looks particularly well for child, ren's wear. Sealskins — If a sealskin has been unfor- tunately wet, do not attempt to rub off the moisture with the hand nor with soft cloths or anything else, and do not put it in a warm room to dry — that will flatten it. Merely spread it out in a cold room until it is dry, before at- tempting anything else. Beat the fur thor- oughly, and be sure it is perfectly clean before it is put away for the summer. Camphor should not be sealskins, as it causes grey streaks to appear in it. The Seals from which the fur is obtained are found principally near Green land and Newfoundland. The skins are dyed a rich Vandyke brown, that hue being considered preferable to the natural color, which is of a yellow or golden shade The fur is very warm and very durable. In putting any furs away for the summer they should be perfectly clean — that is of the^7"s/ importance. Brush them, shake them, beat the firmer sorts with a cane, air them, and wrap them first in linen bags, and afterwards in brown paper bags, pasting up all openings carefully. Newspaper is not strong enough for the outside wrapper, but may be used inside. Put with them either a little camphor, cedarwood or cloves, or best of all, dust them over freely with good fresh insect powder. (Never put camphor near sealskin.) Chinchilla is too perishable to be shaken. Furs may be put in paper boxes, but the cracks should be tightly pasted over with paper. Any article of fur previously at- tacked by moths, should be carefully examined in July, to see that none are present, notwithstanding the other precautions. Lavender put with furs is one of the best protections against the attacks of in- sects. The Ckinckilla is a little rabbit like animal found only in South America. The fur is not very serviceable as it fades quickly, and it will not bear long or rough usage. CHINCHILLA. 828 TO EEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS To Restore C7'ushed Fur'. — Furs, after having been put away for the summer, sometimes look rough and crushed'! To correct this, take a hair brush, wet it, and brush the fur the wrong way; then dry for about 30 minutes, after which beat it well with a light cane, on the right side; then use a coarse comb an.d carefully comb down the fur the right way. To Dye Fur. — For blue, take 1 part blue vitriol, 7 parts log- wood, 22 parts water; mix and boil. For Broivn, use logwood (the tincture only). For Purple, use 6 parts alum, 11 parts logwood, 29 parts water. For red, the ingredients are, 1 oz. cochineal, 1 lb. ground Brazilwood, and 3 quarts water; the mode is to first put the Brazilwood in the water and boil an hour; after which strain, and put in the cochineal, and boil again ^ hour. To Clean the Fur on Stuffed Animals. — First, give the animal a good brushing with a stiff clothes brush. After this, warm a quan- tity of new bran in a pan, taking care it does not burn, to prevent which keep stirring it. When warm, rub it well into the fur with your hand. Repeat this a few times, then rid the fur of the bran, and brush it sharply until free from dust. TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS. NE of the common perplexities of the housekeeper is to re- move spots and stains from different articles. The great dif- ficulty often is to remove the stain without injuring the deli- cate tints of the fabric. Stains may be divided into 3 classes. (1) Simple stains," produced by 1 substance, and which may be removed by 1 agent. (2) Mixed stains, produced by 2 or more substances conjointly, and requiring the application of several clean- ing agents. (3) Stains produced by substances which alter or de- stroy the color. Following we give a synopsis of the best plans in use for removing stains, arranged for convenient reference. In rubbing fabrics to remove stains be careful to always rub the way of the stuff, and not indifferently backwards and forwards. If colors have been changed by vegetable or dilute mineral acids, they can usually be restored with dilute ammonia. If that is not suf- ficient the spot must be wet with a mordant and the requisite dye painted in, in which case the spot must be continuously rubbed with a pledgit of wool, so as to spread it equally and leave no sharp line of demarkation. Before attempting to remove a stain from colored goods, experi- ment on some unseen part and see if the artilce you expect to use affects its color. Injured Colors. — Colors (except some shades of red) which have been destroyed by acid, can usually be restored by first apply- ing ammonia to neutralize the acid, and then apply chloroform which will restore the color. Colors injured by alkalies, should be treated first with dilute acid to neutralize the alkali, and then with chloro- form. TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 829 Any color damaged by ammonia, used to neutralize acids, can Ix' restored by applying chloroform. Articles died with aniline colors, when faded by exposure to light, may be restored by sponging them over with chloroform. Commercial chloroform, which is cheaper than the purified, can be used. A Hint. — In using benzine, turpentine, or other solvent for grease, people generally make the mistake of wetting the cloth with the benzine, or whatever is used, and then rubbing it with a sponge or cloth. This dissolves the grease, but spreads it over a greater space without removing it. The best way is to place a piece of blot- ting paper underneath, then saturate the cloth with the benzine, or whatever is used, then lay another piece of blotting paper on top and press it with a flat=iron. The grease will be dissolved by the solvent, then absorbed by the paper, and so all removed. We explain below the properties of some of the more common and useful cleaning agents. Alcohol. — This is always obtained from the fermentation of sugar, starch, or other saccharine matter. It readily dissolves fats (although less readily than ben- zine or ether) resins, iodine, salts, alkaloids, etc., making it a useful cleaning agent. Ammonia. — This is a transparent, pungent gas, formed of nitrogen and hydro- gen. Water will take up 750 times its bulk of this gas, forming aqua ammonia or hartshorn. It has so many domestic uses that a bottle should be kept in every family. It is especially valuable for removing grease spots from clothing, etc. It is one of the best antidotes for mineral poisons. When the stronger kinds are used for cleaning, etc., care should be taken not to breathe it too freely, lest it in- jure the delicate lining of the nose and lungs. It is an alkali, and will neutralize acid stains. Before applying it to any colored article, try it first on some unseen part to see if it affects the color. Benzine. — This is also called benzole and phene. It is known in chemistry as hydride of phenyl. It is a hydrocarbon, obtained from coal=oil. It is sold under the name of "benzine collas^^ for 3 or 4 times its real value. It has many domes- tic uses, being an excellent solvent for India rubber, wax, camphor, fats and oils. It is extremely volatile, and should on no account be used by lamplight, or near a fire. Keep it tightly corked at all times. As a cleaning agent for grease spots, etc., it hardly has an equal; but it does not remove sweat stains, nor stains from alkali, acids, sugar, milk, etc. It does not injure the most delicate fabric. Chlobide of Lime. — This is extensively used for bleaching textile fabrics, and for removing fruit and red wine stains. Its action on the fabric may be checked by immersing it in aqua ammonia or in a solution of hyposulphite of sodium. Chlobofokm. — This is a colorless liquid which evaporates readily, but it is not inflammable like ether and benzine. It readily dissolves fats, fatty oils, resin, wax, India rubber, etc., making it a valuable cleaning agent, but great care should be taken not to inhale its fumes on account of their well=known stupifying effect. CiTBio AoiD. — This will remove blue or crimson spots on scarlet, and it revives certain colors, like yellows and greens; it also neutralizes alkalies. Acetic or tartaric acids are cheaper, and can always be used in its place for all cleaning purposes, which our readers will do well to remember. Ethek. — This is prepared from a mixture of alcohol and sulphuric acid or vitriol. It is colorless and very volatile, and its vapor mixed with a large amount of air is very explosive so that it should never be used near a light or flame. It readily dissolves fats, resius, wax, balsams and bitumen, making it a useful olean-i ing agent. Great pains should betaken not to inhale its fumes. Glyceeine. — This is a colorless, viscid fluid, of a sweetish taste. It is soluble in water or alcohol, but not in ether, benzine or chloroform. It is a solvent for alkalies, alkaloids, dye=stuffs, etc. 880 TO EEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS Hydboohloeio Aoid. — This is also called muriatic acid and spirit of salt. It is composed simply of chlorine and hydrogen. It is a powerful acid, but is one of the most useful acids known, enormous quantities being used in the arts. It should be kept in a bottle with a ground glass stopper, plainly labeled, kept from child- ren, and used with care, but it has many domestic uses, such as remoying stains from furniture, glass and other ware, clothing, etc. It is alluded to many times in our pages. Oxalic Aoid. — This is one of the vegetable acids. It much resembles Epsom salts, and is sometimes mistaken for it. It is an active poison, and should be kept in a glass bottle, clearly labeled and carefully guarded. It is used to remove spots of ink and iron, the stains of urine, fruit, astringent juices, etc. It is best used on light goods, as it attacks light and fugitive colors. It should be diluted in cold or lukewarm water, as it attacks the texture of the cloth if undiluted. , Ox=GALii. — It is best to purify this before using it. Mix it with an equal amount (by weight) of alcohol; let stand a few days, shaking it occasionally, then filter, and evaporate it down to the consistency of syrup. It readily dissolves fats, and cleans woolens better than soap. It should be used cautiously, as it gives light and delicate colors a green or greenish yellow tint if used too strong. For cleaning silks, etc., it is often mixed with yolk of egg, fuller's earth, honey, turpen- tine, alcohol, etc. Salts of Soeebl (often improperly called salts of lemon). — This is really binoxalate of potassium, and is formed by combining oxalic acid and potassium carbonate. It is used to remove ink stains. Spikits of Wine is the same as alcohol, but it contains more water. TuEPENTiNE. — This is distilled from the sap or juice of the pine or fir tree. It readily dissolves fats and resins, but is not equal to benzine for general clean- ing. The idea that it increases the luster and softness of silk fabrics is a mistake. Yolk oe Egg.- — This if kept too long loses its value as a cleaning agent. Its cleansing properties are similar to those of ox^gall. Sometimes it is mixed with the oil of turpentine for use. Acid Stains. — Most acids produce red stains on blacks, blues and violets, made from vegetable colors (except indigo). The best treatment for all acids is to at once apply some strong alkali, like ammonia, soda, or potash — (ammonia is best). Afterwards wash with water. Red stains can thus be removed. If the acid was very strong, the fabric will probably be destroyed, as well as stained. Then there is no remedy. The brown stains of nitric acid are nearly hopeless. Repeated moistening with a very strong solution of potash permanganate (or as a weak substitute use Condey's fluid), followed by rinsing with water, is the best thing. A color injured by an acid, which is not restored by the ammonia (or other alkali) used, can fre- quently be restored by using chloroform afterwards. Alkaline Stains. — (1) For white goods wash merely. For col- ored woolens, cottons, silk or satin, moisten the stain first, and then cautiously apply dilute acetic acid with the finger=end; when the stain disappears wash well in clean water. (2) If delicate colors are injured by soapy or alkaline matters, renew the dye by applying col- orless vinegar of moderate strength. Albumen. — Merely wash the article in clear water co remove it. Alizarine Ink. — On linen, use a solution of tartaric acid; the older the stain the stronger the solution must be. On cotton, ivoolen, or silk, use "dilute tartaric acid, if the colors will bear it, but use great care on silk. ' Aniline Stains. — For aniline inks, or other aniline stains (1) wash with alcohol containing some acetic acid; if, however, the col- ors of the fabric will not stand acetic acid, use alcohol alone. (2) Try TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 831 a solution of sodium sulphite. (3) Same as "Alizarine Ink" (which see." Beer. — Wash in soapy, and then in clear, water. Blood. — (1) Merely wash with clean water. (2) Make a thick paste of cold water and starch and apply it to any article you do not wish to wash, and place it in the sun for 2 hours; then brush off, and if any trace remains, repeat. Coffee and Chocolate. — (1) Apply a mixture of glycerine and yolk of egg; then wash out with warm water, and while still damp, iron on the reverse side with a moderately hot iron. (2) Wash them in very hot water, soap carefully, and then expose to sulphur fumes. (3) On woolen goods, mix 1 oz. glycerine, 9 oz. water, ^ oz. aqua ammonia; apply repeatedly, press between a cloth, and rub with a clean rag. Steam a little if needed, and the stain will be gone. (4) Delicate colored silks are more difficult. Mix 5 parts of glycerine, 5 parts of water, and \ part of ammonia. Apply it, to test it, on some unnoticeable place; if, after drying, it affects the color, leave out the ammonia; if not, apply to the stain with a brush, leave on over night, and then rub with a clean cloth ; then remove the dry sub- stance with a knife, brush over with clean water, and press between cloths, and dry. Now, if needed, rub with dry bread. Restore the finish with a thin solution of gum arable. Dust. — Beating and brushing merely, will remove these stains from white and colored cotton goods. For old dry stains on colored silk and woolen goods, apply alcohol mixed with yolk of egg, let dry, and scrape off; wipe away remaining traces of the egg with a linen rag dipped in warm water. Fruit. — (1) Most spots may be removed without leaving a stain by rinsing in cold water containing a little ammonia, before the spot has dried. (2) For colored cottons or woolens, wash with tepid soapsuds or ammonia. Silks the same, with gentle rubbing. For linen (table cloths, etc.) or white cotton, use warm chlorine water, or submit to the fumes of burning sulphur (strike a match and hold it so that its sulphurous vapors will be diffused over the stain — using 2 or more if necessary). After washing, the stain will vanish. (3) Spread the stained fabric on the ground in the open air; smear the spot with soap, and sprinkle on common salt; wet, and as it dries, re=wet. Wash after 2 or 3 hours, exposure, and the stain will usually be gone. (4) Rub the spot on each side with hard soap; then lay on a thick mixture of starch and cold water, and rub it well into the spot; afterwards expose to the sun and air; after 3 or 4 days repeat if necessary. (5) Apply salt of sorrel, or a solution of soda hypochlo- rite; wash it out carefully when the object is attained, the latter particularly. (6) Wash fresh stains in kerosene as you would in water. For sour and acid fruits, see vinegar. Grass. — (1) Rub on molasses thoroughly; then wash with clean water. Repeat if necessary. (2) For white goods wash in boiling water. For colored goods, whether cotton, woolen, silk, or satin, 882 TO KEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS damp with a solution of tin chloride; then wash out at once with an abundance of clear water. (3) For light dresses wet the stained part with alcohol; rub well, and the green will be removed. Gravy. — For these stains on delicate silks, first use soap and water to take out the salts and vegetable matter; then turpentine or benzine to take out the grease and oil. After taking out a stain the gloss may be restored to silk by sponging it with gum water, made with either gum arable or gum tragacanth; stretch out the cloth smoothly to dry. Grease. — (1) For linen, use soapsuds or alkaline dyes. For cotton, use lukewarm soapsuds. For woolen use soapsuds or am- monia. For silks, use benzine, ether, ammonia, chalk, magnesia, or yolk of egg with water. (2) For very delicate fabrics, ether or chlor- oform will take out grease, but the more lightly and briskly they are applied the less danger of injury to the goods; as both quickly evap- orate it is needless to use water afterwards. (3) In applying chalk, magnesia, etc., to a delicate silk do not wet them;. apply them dry to the spot, rub them lightly with the finger, and after a time brush ofP. On other goods they can be applied as a wet paste, and rubbed off when dry. (4) Use turpentine or benzine. A very old or thickly crusted spot, may often advantageously be softened by a warm flat= iron, shielded by a thick paper, before applying the turpentine or other solvent. (5) Spread down blotting paper or chalk, lay on the goods, cover with the same, and apply a hot iron — not hot enough to scorch, however. For Wagon Grease: On linen use soap or turpentine, alternating with a stream of water. On cotton or woolens, rub with lard or but- ter, then soap well; wait a little and wash alternately with turpentine and water. On silk, same as for cotton, but use benzine instead of turpentine, and let the water fall on it from some height. Machine Grease or Oil: This generally contains, besides the grease, oxide of iron worn off the machinery, etc.; therefore, first re- move the grease with benzine, turpentine, or ammonia, then treat the spot with oxalic acid, chloride of lime, or, on delicate materials, with lemon juice, to take out the iron. After using these agents always rinse the fabric well with water. Gelatine and Glue. — (1) Merely wash in clean water. (2) For glue, moisten in steam, immerse in hot water, and rub. Green Nut Shells or Tannin. — On linen, use warm chlorine water, javelle water, or concentrated solution of tartaric acid. On cotton, woolen, or silk, wash several times alternately with water and chlorine water, diluted more or less according to the colors. Use care on silk. Gum. — Cut it with alcohol or benzine; or treat it like wax (which see). Jjik. — For black or nut=gall ink: (1) Put at once into milk; while there, rub gently for a few minutes. If allowed to dry, ink is more difficult to remove, but can be with a little effort, but use hot milk. (2) Soak the spot with ripe tomato, rub a little, ^nd TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 833 then wash. The stain does not entirely disappear until after the washing. (3) Pour on kerosene oil and rub with the hand; repeat the operation if necessary, (4) Apply pure melted tallow and leave 1 or 2 days; then wash out the tallow and the ink will come with it. (5) On cotton, woolen, or silk, saturate with turpentine, leave on several hours, and rub between the hands; the ink will crumble away. On linen, use tartaric acid. (6) Stretch the article over a warm flat=iron, and squeeze on a few drops of lemon juice. (7) Moisten it with strong salt water, and then sponge with lemon juice. (8) Treat old ink=stains first with proto-chloride of tin, to deoxidize the iron, and then with dilute oxalic acid. On white goods, touch the part stained with a dilute solution of chloride of lime; then wash thoroughly. (9) On white goods, use warm oxalic acid or di- lute muriatic acid with little pieces of tin. On fast^dyed woolens and cottons apply acetic acid carefully and repeatedly. On silks, efforts are nearly useless. (10) Delicate colors will be injured by oxalic acid or similar articles. For these, carefully apply a weak solution of pyrophosphate of soda, using a small brush; repeat sever- al times, and the ink will be removed without injuring the article. Then rinse out with clear water. Remove any ink spot before washing the article, or the soap will "set" the stain and make it very difficult of removal. Aniline inks: Treat the same as "Aniline Stains" (which see). Indelible or Marking Inks: (1) Mix 1 part cyanide of potassium in 4 parts water; soak the spot in this a few hours and it will fade out. (Highly poisonous, so handle carefully.) (2) Steep about ^ hour in chlorine water; then wash with ammonia; then with clear water. (3) First soak in strong salt water; then wash with am- monia. (4) With a small brush (camel's hair) apply a saturated solution of cyanurate of potassium; then wash in clean cold water. (5) To a solution of strong cyanide of potassium add a few grains of iodine. Repeated applications will remove any stain caused by nitrate of silver. Printer's Ink: Put the stained parts of the fabric into a quantity of benzine; then use a fine, rather stiff brush, with fresh benzine; dry, and wash clean with warm water and curd soap. The benzine will not injure the fabric or dye. Red Ink: (1) Same as number 2 given for "Fruit" (which see). (2) Moisten the spot with strong alcohol acidulated with nitric acid. Iron Mold and Rust. — (1) Wet the spot with lemon juice, sprinkle on salt, and hold over the spout of a boiling tea-kettle, or expose to the sun. (2) On linen dip the spot in sour buttermilk and dry in the sun; repeat several times if necessary. (3) Wet the spot, place the linen over a pan of hot water, and put a little salts of lemon on the spot; as soon as the stain disappears, wash it in clean water. (4) Wet the spot and lay on powdered oxalic acid or cream of tartar; rub in well, and then wash off with clean water. The cream of tartar is effective only on stains of recent date. (5) Same as number 9 given for "Ink Stains" (which see). (6) On silk or satin goods 53 834 TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS moisten with strong vinegar, leave covered for some time with beech- wood ashes, and finally wash in strong soapy water. ( 7 ) Wash the soiled spot in kerosene as you would in water; apply before using soap, or it is useless. Lime and Lye. — Same as " Alkalies" (which see). Lubricating Oils. — See " Machine Grease." Mildew. — (1) Soak the spots in sour milk or buttermilk, and then expose to the hot sun; then rinse in clear water. (2) Moisten both sides with lemon juice, cover with a paste of soft soap and chalk, and sun for | hour; repeat till gone. (3) Dilute hartshorn will take mildew from woolen goods. (2) On cotton or linen first wet with soapsuds; then mix equal quantities of soft soap and chalk, and ap- ply it; then spread it out on a tin dish, and expose all day to the hot sun; repeat if necessary. (5) Dip the spot into a weak solution of chloride of lime, and expose to the sun a few minutes; repeat till it disappears, and then rinse thoroughly in clean water. On almost any fabric chloride of lime will remove mildew, but as this turns most colors it must be used with care. (6) Mix soft soap with -powdered starch, add half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon; apply it to both sides of the cloth and expose to the hot sun. Mercurial Ointment. — This produces very persistent stains. To extract them, wash the spot with a hot solution of soda (1 part soda to 50 of water), and when the grease is removed rub over with a rather strong solution of clear chloride of lime. If the article is col- ored or delicate, benzine must be used instead of the soda solution. Apply to both sides of the material. Milk. — For white goods, wash thoroughly in soapy or lye water. For colored cottons or woolens, use benzine or turpentine; wash afterwards in soapy water if needed. For silks or satins, use the purest benzine. See number 4 for " Grease." Molasses. — Same as " Sugar" (which see). Mud. — (1) In many cases the best treatment is to let the mud dry without brushing; when fully dry, brush off. (2) For mud stains, first remove the vegetable matter with soap and water; then use cream of tartar to remove the iron often present in mud; then wash with clean water. (3) Oxalic acid is often used to remove traces of mud which do not yield to other agents. Rust. — Same as "Vinegar" (which see). NitratQ of Silver. — (1) Apply chloride of copper; then touch with a crystal of hyposulphite of soda; then wash with water. This can be applied to colored woven cotton tissue. For white cottons and linens, use dilute solutions of permanganate of potash and hy- drochloric acid, followed by the hyposulphite of soda and clear water. (2) Moisten the spot with a solution of bichloride of mercury. (3)- Moisten repeatedly with a weak solution of cyanide of potassium, and rinse thoroughly in clear water. Oil. — Same as "Grease" (which see). TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 835 Paint, — (1) For new stains, saturate as often as necessary with equal parts of turpentine and ammonia; when quite softened, wash out with soap and water. (2) For old, dry stains, apply olive oil or butter; when softened use chloroform; or, instead of chloroform, use turpentine first, and then benzine. (3) Patient, continuous rubbin,^ with chloroform, will remove paint from black silk, or other material. (4) For silks and satins, spread on a thin paste of ether and carbon- ate of magnesia; after the ether evaporates, brush away the magne- sia, or rub with crumbs of bread, (5) Use turpentine to remove the oil, and oxygenated water to oxidize the lead, and finish with dilute acetic acid; if the paint contains oxide of iron, oxalic acid can be used, while copper colors must be treated with ammonia. Peach Stains. — These may be removed from a table cloth by holding it over a basin and pouring hot water through. See also " Fruit." Perspiixdion. — (1) Apply first weak ammonia; then bichloride of tin. If the color is not altogether destroyed this will restore it. If the color is permanently afPected the only remedy is to apply the appropriate mordant, and then paint on the requisite color. (2) Ap- ply a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and then bleach if the goods are white. Pitch.—^ee " Tar." Punch Stains. — Wash in soapy, and then in clean water. Scorches. — Apply soapsuds and let them lie in the sun. If that fails, put 1 lb. white soap in 1 gallon milk, and boil the articles in it. See also " The Laundry." Sauce. — Apply benzine or turpentine to remove the grease or oil; then ammonia to neutralize the juice or vinegar in the gravy; finally clean water to take out the blood, etc. Sealing Wax. — (1) Warm and apply strong methylated spirits. (2) Use strong alcohol. Soup. — Same as "Milk" (which see). Stearine or Spermaceti. — Use strong 95° alcohol to cut it, on any kind of goods. Sugar. — Wash in clean warm water. Tannin or Tanning Juices.—See " Green Nut Shells." Tar and Pitch. — (1) Rub well with clean lard; then wash with warm water and soap. (2) Apply olive oil; then benzine or turpen- tine. (3) Use strong alcohol. (4) On silk or satin, rub with clean lard; then soap well, and leave it on some time; then wash alter- nately with benzine, and water falling on the underside from some height. Treat carefully. (5) Mix turpentine and yolk of egg and apply; when dry, scratch it away, and wash thoroughly in hot water. (6) For silk or satin, moisten and then rub with ether or chloroform; then lay on chalk or pipeclay; then blotting paper, and pass a hot iron over it. Tea Stains. — (1) Place a bowl under the fabric and pour clear boiling water through the stain. (2) Apply equal parts of ammonia and alcohol; then wash in tepid soapsuds. 836 TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS Urine. — (1) Wash out with alcohol or dilute citric or acetic acid. (2) Same as number 1 given for "Perspiration" (which see). Varnish or Resin. — (1) Warm; apply strong methylated spirits. (2) Use chloroform, but with care. ('?>) Use turpentine or benzine, and then soapsuds. For silk, use benzine or ether, and then soap, but with care. Vegetable Dyes. — Same as number 2 given for " Fruits " (which see). Vinegar and Acid Fruits. — (1) For white goods, wash in clean water to which ammonia has been added; or, if a fruit stain accom- panies the acid, wash with water, and follow with chlorine water. (2) For colored cotton, woolen, silk or satin, moisten carefully with dilute ammonia; then wash in clean water. (3) Apply a thin paste made of prepared chalk and water; this will be preferable for delicate colors. Walnut Stains. — Same as "Green Nut Shells" (which see). Water. — If water falls on some kinds of silks, satin, or woolen fabrics, it dissolves away a j)art of the dressing, causing a dull spot on the glossy ground; to remedy this, steam the material till it is all equally moistened; it may then be hot^pressed, or if small, ironed with a hot, but perfectly clean iron. Wax. — Remove what you can with a knife; place a wet linen beneath, cover the stain with several layers of blotting paper; and pass a hot iron over; the heat melts the wax, and the paper absorbs it. Remove any remaining trace with benzine. Whitewash Stains. — Wash at once in vinegar; that will usually restore them. Wine. — (1) Dip the stained part into boiling milk; keep the milk boiling until the stain disappears. (2) For port and claret stains, apply a little salt, and then moisten with sherry. (3) Soap the stain; then burn sulphur under the large end of a paper funnel, and direct the small end to the spot on the cloth. (4) For sour wine, same as "Vinegar" (which see). (5) On white goods, rinse with water, apply a weak solution of chloride of lime, and rinse again freely. Restore the dressing by steaming, starching, and pressing. Red Wine Stains: Same as number 2 given for " Fruit" (which see). CLEANING COMPOUNDS.— iVo. i.— Take ^ oz. oil of sassafras, ^ oz. chloroform, ^ oz. ammonia, 1^ oz. alcohol, 1 teaspoon pulverized borax; mix, shake well, and add 1 quart of deodorized gasoline; then bottle for use. This is a splendid cleaning compound to keep in the house. It will clean ribbons, neckties, ruching, carpets, greasy clothing, etc. For paint, soak the spot in kerosene oil, and then apply this mixture. No. 2. — Scrape ^ oz. Castile soap, dissolve it in 1 quart warm water, and as it cools add ^ oz. glycerine, ^ oz. sulphuric ether, and 1 oz. alcohol; keep in well corked bottles. Excellent for grease spots, etc. CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 837 No. 3. — Take 1 drachm alcohol, ^ drachm chloroform, ^ drachm sulphuric ether, 1 pint deodorized benzine; mix, and add enough cologne to give a pleasant odor. This is excellent for cleaning cloth gloves, felt hats, coat collars, etc., and is useful to keep on hand for removing grease spots, etc. Make double the quantity if desired. No. 4. — Take fresh calcined magnesia, and mix it into a thick paste with pure benzine. Keep in a wide mouthed, tightly corked bottle. Apply to grease spots, etc., and, when quite dry, brush ofp. No. 5. — Equal parts of ether, alcohol and strong ammonia form an excellent cleaning compound. No. 6. — Grate a potato to a pulp, and add water in the propor- tion of a pint to a pound; let stand, and when clear pour off the clear part, and bottle. Apply to grease spots, etc., with a linen rag, and follow it with spirits of wine. Lightning Eradicator. — Into 3 cups warm water put 2- oz. finely shaved castile soap, 2 oz. strong ammonia water, 2 teaspoons pow- dered saltpetre; mix well, and let stand 4 days before using, keeping it in a wide mouthed, well stopped bottle. Rub it well into a grease spot, and rinse then with clean water. Useful also for washing deli- cate colored articles. Diluted with water and sprayed on plants it will kill any insects which infest them, and act as a fertilizer as well. It may also be added to the water for shampooing the head. Sconring Balls. — Dissolve ^ lb, white soap (shaved fine) in spir- its of wine; add 8|^ drachms of turpentine and the yolks of 4 eggs; add enough magnesia to make it stiff enough to form into balls. Moisten the stain, rub with the ball, let dry, and wash with soft water; repeat if needed. Black Reviver. — (1) Take 1 quart of water, and add 2 oz. pow- dered Aleppo galls, 2 oz. logwood, amd 1 oz. gum arabic; boil till re- duced^; then add 1 oz. sulphate of iron. Useful to renovate faded mourning dresses, old black coats, trousers, etc. (2) Put a quantity of fig leaves in water, and boil till the liquid is reduced ^; apply it with a black cloth. Useful to take stains out of black cloth. CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. r^ EMENT for an Aquarium. — Take by measure 10 parts of I Y litharge, 10 parts of plaster of paris, 10 parts dry white sand, lAJ and 1 part finely powdered resin. Mix them with boiled lin- ^"^ seed oil into a pretty stifp putty when wanted for use. This will stick to wood, stone, metal or glass, and harden under water. Do not use the tank for 3 days after cementing it. General Utility Cement. — A splendid cement is made by mixing together litharge and glycerine to the consistency of syrup. It will resist acids, water, heat and cold. Let the cement fully harden be- fore using the article. It is a general utility cement, and will hold lamp tops, stone jars, stop bracks in iron kettles, etc. 838 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. Cement to Attach Glass and Metal. — Mix together 1 oz. spirits of turpentine, 2 oz. linseed oil varnish, and 4 oz. of thick glue; then put them in a close vessel and boil. Apply to the glass and metal, fasten them firmly together, and let dry for 3 or 4 days. An Extra. Cement. — One of the strongest cements known is made by mixing powdered flint glass, ground to an impalpable pow- der, with the white of an egg. Colored Glass Cement. — If finely pulverized chalk is stirred into a solution of soluble glass until the mixture is fine and plastic, a ce- ment is obtained which hardens in (5 or 8 hours and possesses remark- able durabilty. It may be used for about the same purposes as plas- ter of paris, but is much harder and stronger. If some coloring matter is substituted for part of the chalk different colored cements result. Thus vermillion will make a splendid red cement; carmine, a violet; cobalt blue, a blue; carbonate of copper, a bright green; gray antimony, a dark cement; zinc gray, a hard gray cement, which, burnished, appears like metallic zinc, and can be used to mend zinc vessels. The cement also sticks to stone, wood and metals. Cement for China, Etc. — Mix plaster of paris into a strong solu- tion of gum arable until it attains the right consistency. Apply with a brush to the fractured edges, and let it dry for 3 days. This cement is white and very strong. Transparent Cement for China, Glass or Earthen Ware. — A transparent cement can be made by dissolving Russian isinglass in gin with a gentle heat, and when it is fully melted and well mixed strain through a thin cloth; then bottle and cork tight. It will easily dissolve with a little heat, and should be warmed before using. Apply with a small brush to the edges of the broken ware, and then tie them together, letting it dry for several days before using. Cemejit for Porcelain. — (1) Take 1 part of pulverized gum ara- ble, and 2 parts of finely^powdered oyster shells, and mix them together thoroughly. Keep in a tightly^corked bottle. For use, rub uj) enough of this with the white of an egg to make a thick paste, apply it to the broken edges, and dry with a gentle heat. (2) An- other cement for porcelain is simply thick whitedead paint. Cement for Stone and Marhle Slabs. — Mix hydraulic cement and water=glass together to a thick dough; apply to the broken edges and bind together until dry. It soon hardens, so that very little should be made at a time. Cement for Glass. — Dissolve fine glue in strong acetic acid to form a thin paste. Cement to Fasten Glass Letters Upon Windows, Etc. — Take 1 part India rubber, 3 parts mastic, and 50 parts chloroform. Let the mixture stand several days in a closed vessel, and apply rapidly. Cement for Crockery, China, Marhle, or Glassware. — Thor- oughly mix lime and the white of an egg. Apply quickly to the edges, place them firmly together and it soon sets. Mix but little at once as it hardens quickly. This is very strong and easily made. CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 839 Cement for Stoneware. — Take a strong solution of cold alum water and mis plaster of paris into it. It sets slowly, but becomes very hard. Useful also for many other articles. To Cement Wood to Stone. — Take 4 parts pulverized chalk, 4 parts pitch and 1 part beeswax. Melt and mix; warm before using. Apply thinly to the places to be joined. To Cement. Plaster of Paris. — Cover the broken surfaces with melted shellac, press firmly together, and leave till cold and hard. Cement for Ruhher. — (1) Dissolve strips of India rubber in naphtha, or sulphide \)f carbon, to a stiff paste. Naphtha should not be used in doors, or near a fire. Or (2) dissolve small pieces of gut- ta-percha in benzine to a thin paste. This makes an admirable water-tight cement for bottles by simply corking them and dipping the stoppers in it. It dries in a few minutes, and will mend rubber overshoes, etc., fasten backs on books, or rips in upholstery, and is generally useful. Keep in a tightly=corked bottle. Cement for Hard Rubber. — Fuse together equal parts of genu- ine asphaltum and gutta-percha. Apply hot to the edges, and press together immediately. Cement for Fastening Rubber, Guttr percha, Leather or Cloth to Metal. — Take 4 It of the best glue, 4 oz. of saltpetre, 4 oz. gu ammoniac. Warm the glue over a fire till it is all dissolved, then add the gum ammoniac and thoroughly mix. Now put in the acid and thoi oughly mix. Have the metal surface warm and dry when applied. GuTTA=PEBOHA is the dried milky juice of a tree found in the tropics. The method of gathering it is similar to that used for India rubber, but it differs from rubber in being almost non*elastic. It, however, has many commer- cial uses. GUTTASPEEOHA. Cement for Rubber, Leather, Cloth or Metals. — Fuse together equal parts of gutta-percha and pitch. Use hot. A valuable cement for various uses. Cement for Leather or jRt*56er.— Dissolve 1 oz. gutta=percha in "I lb. chloroform. To apply, clean the parts with benzine, apply the cement to each part and let stand 20 or 30 minutes; then warm both by a candle flame, and squeeze together until dry. Cement for Closing Cracks in Stoves. — Get finely pulverized iron at the druggist's, and mix with liquid water=glass to a thick paste. Coat the cracks with it and the hotter the fire the more com- pletely will the crack be closed. A Fireproof Cement. — Mix 2 parts sifted wood ashes, and 1 part air slacked lime, with sufficient boiled linseed oil to make a smooth paste. It hardens quickly to the solidity of stone, and can be used around fireplaces, stovepipes, chimneys,' etc. It is waterproof also. Waterproof Cement. — Take 4 oz. shellac and 1 oz. borax; \)0\\ in a little water until dissolved, and concentrate to a paste by heat. 840 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. Cement for Cracks in a Plastered Wall. — Take equal parts of water and silicate of potash; then mix in ordinary whiting to the right consisteney. It may be applied with an old case knife; let it harden about 50 or 60 minutes; then smooth it off. Cement to Resist Petroleum. — Boil 1 part of caustic soda and 3 parts of resin in 5 parts of water; afterwards mix in half its weight in plaster of paris or precipitated chalk. The plaster hardens in about 40 minutes. Acid Proof Cement. — Take a concentrated solution of silicate of soda, and mix to a paste with powdered glass. Rice Cement, Paste or Glue. — Mix equal quantities of rice and flour thoroughly in water and gently simmer the mixture over a clear fire. It forms a delicate and durable cement. Japanese Cement. — Take rice flour or powdered rice and mix it intimately with cold water; then boil it to form a thin paste. It will be beautifully white, dries almost transparent, and is adapted for work requiring any strong and colorless cement. Also, much less water can be used, and in this way a preparation can be formed thick enough for modeling figures, ornaments, busts, etc. Diamond Cement. — Place a tin dish in a pan containing boiling water, and put in it 1 lb. white glue and 1 quart soft water; when this is dissolved stir in 4 oz. white lead and boil till all is well mixed. Then take off the stove; after it is cold stir in ^ pint alcohol. Bottle at once; keep tightly corked. Cement for Bone and Ivory. — (1) Boil colorless isinglass in water till it forms a thick solution; then make to the consistency of honey by adding washed zinc white, and use. (2) Melt together at moderate heat, resin, white wax and oil of turpentine, till a thick fluid mass is formed. Color, if desired, with red lead, ultramarine blue, etc. Cement for Ivory or Mother of Pearl. — Dissolve 1 oz. of isin- glass and 2 oz. white glue in 30 oz. water; strain and evaporate to 6 oz. Add ^ drachm of gum mastic dissolved in \ oz. of alcohol; add 1 oz. white zinc. For use, warm and shake well; also warm the broken edges. Cement for Meerschaum. — Use quicklime mixed to a thick cream with the white of an egg. Cement for Bottle Corks. — Use pitch, hardened by the addition of resin and brick dust. To Weld Horn. — Pieces of horn may be joined by heating the edges until they are quite soft, and pressing them together until they are cold. Waterproof Glue. — A glue which will be impervious to water may be prepared by boiling ^ lb. glue in 1 quart of skimmed milk. To Strengthen Glue. — (1) Mix powdered chalk into it. (3) It is said that white lead added to glue makes it waterproof, and strengthens it. CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 841 Liquid Glue. — Dissolve 2 oz, good glue in 4 oz. cider vinegar. If too thick, add more vinegar; if too thin, more glue. Easily niade and good, but use genuine vinegar. Liquid Glue for Labeling on Tin. — Take 1 quart boiling water, 2 oz. pulverized borax ; add 4 oz. gum shellac and boil till dissolved. Prepared Glue. — Take a wide^mouthed bottle, and put in 8 oz. best glue and ^ pint of water. Set in a kettle of water and heat until the glue is dissolved; then stir in slowly 2^ oz. of strong nitric acid. Keep tightly corked and it will be ready for use always, and very strong. Marine Glue. — (1) Dissolve 20 grains of caoutchouc and 2 fluid ounces of chloroform, and add 4 drachms of powdered mastic; let it macerate for a week. Keep cool and cork well. (2) Dissolve by heat 2 oz. of pure India rubber in naphtha; when melted add 4 oz. shellac; melt until mixed; pour while hot on metal plates to cool; when required to use, melt and apply with a brush. Glue to Resist Fire. — Mix a handful of quicklime in 4 oz. of linseed oil; then spread on tin plates in the shade and it will become exceedingly hard, but may be easily dissolved over the fire and used as ordinary glue. MUCILAGE AND PASTE. Preserving Mucilage and Paste. — A few drops of oil of cloves, or of alcohol, or any essential oil, will preserve a quart of the muci- lage of gum arable or gum tragacanth from turning sour. A little dissolved alum will preserve flour paste. Adding a little carbolic acid, will prevent mold in paste or mucilage. Anything strongly odoriferous, like bergamont, clove oil, etc., mixed in paste preserves it indefinitely from the attacks of insects. Best Mucilage. — Dissolve gum tragacanth in water; then add a few drops of oil of cloves and a pinch of alum. Mucilage for Labels, Etc. — Mix 2 oz. of dextrin, 1 drachm of glycerine, 1 oz. of alcohol with 6 oz. of water. Fastening on Labels. — For attaching labels to tin and other bright metallic surfaces, first rub the surface with a mixture of muri- atic acid and alcohol; then apply the label with a very thin coating of paste and it will adhere almost as well as on glass. Labels that are exposed to acid fumes or damp may be attached with any good paste, and, when dry, coated wilh copal varnish. If neatly done the appearance is very good, and the moisture and acids have no action on them. A Strong. Mucilage, which, keeps well, is formed by mixing equal parts of powdered gum arable and gum tragacanth, and dissolving them in dilute acetic acid. Postage Stamp Mucilage. — Take 2 oz. dextrin, 1 oz. of acetic acid, 5 oz. water; dissolve them by the aid of heat, and add 1 oz. spirits of wine. 842 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. A Paste That Will Keep for Months.— (1) Take 4 oz. flour, ^ oz. finely powdered alum, and mix very smoothly; then add water and boil gently. When taken off the fire stir in a drachm of essential oil of cloves. Put in a jar, cover over, and it will always be ready for use. (2) Boil gum tragacanth in water until thin enough for paste. Add a little cologne to prevent its molding. Excellent and strong; will stick to leather or cloth as well as paper. Paste That Will Adhere to Whitewash and All Plastered Surfaces. — Soften 9 lbs. of finely^powdered bole in water; next boil f lb. of glue, adding it to the above, with 1 lb. of gypsum. The whole is to be diluted to a thin paste. When putting fine paper on old walls it is well to coat them with a foundation paper, using this paste. Paperhanger''s Paste. — (1) To each pound of sifted flour add a teaspoonful of crushed alum, and mix with boiling water in the usual way, stirring constantly. (2) Use 1 pint of rye flour to 1 gallon of soft water; put it into the water while cold, put over the fire, and stir till boiling hot. Have ready 1 oz. of alum and ^ oz. white glue, dis- solved in water, and stir them in. Should the paste become thick as it cools, stir in boiling soft water till it is very thin. Excellent for everything but the most delicate papers. (3) Use clear corn=starch prepared the same as for starching clothes. A little carbolic acid added will guard against vermin. A Hint. — Adding either copperas or cayenne pepper to the paste used for hanging paper will preserve it from the attacks of mice. Alum added to the paste, injures crimson colors in " flock papers," and should not be used for such. Strong Paste for Pasteboard. — Mix 30 parts of starch and 20 parts of cold water till it becomes a perfectly smooth paste. Gradu- ally add to this an equal amount of very thin hot glue, which must be kept at the boiling point. Add a little carbolic acid, and heat the whole mass for a few minutes. Scrap-hook Paste. — (1) Dissolve a piece of common glue, inches square, in water; add as much pulverized alum by weight as there is of glue; then mix ^ teaspoon of flour in water, stir it in, and boil all. When nearly cold stir in 2 teaspoons of oil of lavender. (2) Dissolve 1^ teaspoons of powdered alum in enough water to make 1 pint of paste; when dissolved, pour it onto flour enough to thicken it as stiff as common paste; bring to a boil, stirring it all the time; when done add a few drops of oil of cloves. Excellent. (3) Take ^ pint of water, 3 drachms gelatine, 1 oz. rice starch; heat, with constant stirring, till the milky liquid becomes thick and glassy; add a few drops of oil of cloves. Keep in a tight bottle. Paste to Mount Photographs. — Mix good starch with cold water enough to moisten it, and thin down to the proper consistency with boiling water; add a little camphor to keep it good; strain through a fine cloth to prevent any lumps. To Sticlc Paper to Metal. — Dip the metal into a strong and hot solution of washing soda, and rub dry with a clean rag. Then apply onion juice to the surface of the metal and any paper or label will adhere very firmly. INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. 843 To Make Sealing Wax.--Red.—M.e\i 1 lb. shellac and 2 lbs. resin; mix in'f lb. of Venice turpentine and red lead. Same propor- tion for less quantity. Black, the same, but color with lampblack instead of red lead. Sealing Wax for Fruit Cans. — Take 8 oz. resin, 2 oz. gum shellac, | oz. beeswax; melt all together. Melt and use as wanted Shoemakerh Wax.— Take 4 lbs. resin, 1 lb. pitch, 4 oz. bees- wax, 3 oz. best sperm oil. Boil and pull. INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. ^RESERVING /w/c. — Adding a little carbolic acid will prevent mold in ink; so will adding a few cloves; besides which the latter will impart an agreeable odor to it. Ink Powder. — Take 7 oz. copperas, 7 oz. gum arabic and 1 lb. nut galls; pulverize and mix. This amount of powder will make 1 gallon of good black ink. To prevent its mold- ing, add 2 or 3 powdered cloves to each pound of powder. Red Ink. — Half a drachm of powdered lake, and 18 grains of powdered gum arabic, dissolved in 3 oz. of ammonia water, makes one of the finest red or carmine inks. To Improve the Color of Ink. — To 1 pint of common black ink add 1 drachm of impure carbonate of potassa. In a few minutes it will become jet black. Be careful the ink does not run over during the effervescence caused by the potassa. Carhon Ink. — Use genuine India ink rubbed down with good black ink until it will flow easily from the pen. This ink resists chlorine and oxalic acids. Draiving Ink. — Dissolve shellac in a hot water solution of borax, and rub up in this solution a fine quality of India ink. Dip the pen in alcohol and wipe dry after using. Very black, and indel- ible. India Ink. — Take thin gum water, or a thin size of isinglass and water, and work into it enough of the finest lampblack to make a thick paste; scent it, if desired, with a few drops of musk, mold it into sticks, and leave it to dry. For common purposes it will equal India ink. Blue Writing Fluid. — Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian blue in pure water. This is the most permanent and beautiful ink known. Indelible Ink. — A strong solution of Prussian blue, dissolved in distilled water, with good ox^gall, makes an ink which turns black and cannot be erased. Indelible Ink for Marking Cloth. — Take 1 oz. of rain water and dissolve in it 2 drachms gum arabic, 5 scruples nitrate of silver, and 1 scruple of indigo. Nothing better made. After marking the goods, heat with a hot iron or dry in the sun. 844 INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. Ink for Mai'king Packages. — Take lampblack and mix it thor- oughly with sufficient turpentine to make it flow freely from the brush. Powdered ultramarine instead of lampblack makes a fine blue mixture for the same purpose. Invisible Ink. — (1) A solution of chloride, or nitro-muriate of cobalt turns green when heated, and disappears again on cooling. (2) Write with sweet milk or a solution of 1 teaspoon of white sugar dissolved in 1 cup boiling water. On heating it turns brown. Gold Ink. — Take equal parts honey and gold leaf; triturate until the gold is reduced to the finest state of division possible; agitate with 30 parts water and allow it to settle. Decant the water and repeat the washing several times; finally dry the gold and mix it with a little weak gum water for use. Silver Ink. — Use silver leaf instead of gold leaf and proceed as above. Copying Ink. — Add 2 parts of glycerine to 4 parts of common violet ink. With good copying paper it will copy without a press. Enduring Ink. — Take 1 gallon rain water, 6 oz. powdered nut* galls, 4 oz. copperas, 2 oz. gum arable, 2 oz. brown sugar; powder, mix thoroughly, and shake occasionally for 10 days. Will endure for centuries and may be used for records, etc. Indestructible Ink. — Mix 4 parts oil of turpentine and 1 part genuine Trinidad asphaltum; color with plumbago for black, or ver- million for red. Will resist fire, etc. To Erase Ink. — To erase black ink use oxalic acid or javelle water. To erase ruling inks mix 1 oz. acetic acid and 1 oz. saturated solution of chloride of lime; use when fresh. Note. — -If in erasing ink the blue lines on writing paper are taken out also, they can be marked in again with a solution of common bluing such as is used in washing clothes, adding a litttle ox=gall to make it flow well. To Restore Obliterated Ink. — (1) With a brush apply a solu- tion of potassium f errocyanide ; if any of the iron of the original ink is left the writing will appear in blue. (2) If the paper has been immersed in sea or salt water, remove the salt by washing in warm water,. and then soak it in a weak solution of gallic acid, say 3 grains to the oz. (3) Wash in clean water, and soak in a solution of photo- sulphate of iron (10 grs. to the oz,). To Prevent Ink from Souring.-^Add to each pint bottle a few drops of clove oil or carbolic acid. To Preserve Steel Pens. — The acid in inks eats steel. If some pieces of iron or steel (like old pens, nails, etc.,) are put in the ink the acid exhausts itself on them, and will not thereafter attack the pens used. Pens stuck in lime or pearline when not in use, will be kept from rusting. Stencil Ink. — Dissolve in a little boiling water 1 part borax and 1 part shellac; dilute to the consistency of thin syrup with hot water. To produce a red ink add logwood; for a blue ink add Prussian blue. INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. 845 Ink for Leather. — Dissolve 1 part gum arable and 1 part cop- peras In a little boiling water; add a little extract of logwood. Dilute with hot water if it gums. Ink for Glass. — Rub up with strong gum arable equal parts of iron scales (hammer scales) and lampblack. Can also be used on earthenware or china. Ink for Zinc. — (1) Take 1 dr. sal ammoniac, ^ dr. lampblack, 1 dr. verdigris, and mix with 10 dr. water. This is indelible on zinc Or, (2) take 1 part gum arable, 1 part dry bichloride of platinum, 10 parts distilled water; mix. This ink is black and resists acids or water. To Mark Silver With a Black That Will Never Go Off.— Pulverize burnt lead; then incorporate it with sulphur and vinegar to the consistency of a paint, and write with it on silver plate. When dry, heat it a little before the fire and it is complete. To Mark On Steel. — (1) Warm it and cover with a thin layer of wax or tallow. Then write with a pointed instrument which will penetrate through the wax to the steel. Then pour nitric acid over the surface and leave a few minutes, and wash off with water. Clean off the wax and the writing will appear engraved on the steel. (2) Another method is to dissolve sulphate of copper in water so as to make a liquid, like ink, and add a little sulphuric acid; write with this, using a quill pen; copper letters will be formed on steel or iron. Copying paper. — For a black paper make a thick paste by mix- ing cold lard and lampblack; spread the mixture on the paper with a cloth, and then rub with flannel until no more color comes off. For a reel paper proceed in the same manner, but use Venetian red in- stead of the lampblack. For blue, use Prussian blue. For green, use chrome green. By using alternate sheets of writing paper and any of these sheets, and writing on the top sheet with a solid pen, several copies may be produced at once. Copying Paper (German Process). — Soak 4 parts of the best glue in a mixture of 5 parts of water and 3 parts of liquor of ammo- nia till the glue is thoroughly softened. Warm it till the glue is dissolved, and add 3 parts of granulated sugar and 8 parts of glycer- ine, stirring the whole well and letting it come to the boiling point. While the mixture is hot, paint it with a broad brush on clean white blotting paper until the latter is thoroughly soaked and a thin coat- ing remains on the surface. Let it dry for 2 or 3 days and it will be ready for use. The writing or sketch to be copied is done with ani- line ink on writing paper. Before transferring it to the blotting paper, wet the latter with a sponge or brush and clean water, and allow it to stand for 2 minutes. Place the written side on the blot- ting paper, and press out air bubbles ; after a few moments of gen- tle pressure, remove the written paper. A number of copies can then be taken; when the impressions grow faint, damp the surface of the blotting paper again. It works like a hectograph, and makes a fair substitute for that. Poioder for Stamping Velvet, Plush and Felt. — (1) Take 1 oz. English resin, 1 oz. gum demar, 1 oz. gum copal, 1 oz. gum sandarac. 846 A FEW USEFUL ARTICLES 3 oz. dry white lead. Mix. After stamping the goods wring a cloth out of gasoline and lay over the stamping for about half a minute; then remove, and let it dry in. New and excellent. This makes a white powder. Blue powder may be made the same way, except leave out the white lead, and substitute 1 oz. gilding powder and 3 oz. ultramarine blue. (2) Take equal parts of pulverized gum demar and white resin, and add enough Persian blue to color to suit. To Gild upon Silk, Satin, Etc. — Mix together 3 parts distilled water and 1 part nitro=muriate of gold in solution; dip a brush in this fluid, and trace out on the silk or satin, the pattern or design; while still wet, expose it to a stream of hydrogen gas; then wash in clean water and the gilding will be finished. Common Sour is prepared by stirring into clean water sufficient oil of vitriol to make it taste sharp. Used in working various textile fabrics. A Lubricator. — Mix 1 part fine black lead ground perfectly smooth, with 4 parts of lard. &jjs A FEW USEFUL ARTICLES. HE following list is not intended ^Jto be complete, but is de- signed to call attention to a few very useful articles which may to advantage be kept on hand by housekeepers. All miscellaneous articles should be very clearly and plainly la- beled, so that no mistakes can occur in their use, and most of them should be kept locked up in the storeroom, if there is one. See also the articles given under " Removing Spots and Stains." Alum. — This has some medicinal properties, being good to stop nose bleed, check diarrhea, etc. A hot solution of alum makes a most excellent insect destroyer, as elsewhere explained. It is useful for some cements, and if mixed with starch lessens the inflammabil- ity of clothing. It is a powerful astringent, and is used in medicine as such. Borax. — This is a compound containing boracic acid and soda. It has many domestic uses. It will soften hard water, and is very useful in washing clothes, and if properly used will greatly reduce the amount of soap required. It does not injure the texture of the cloth like sal soda. If added to the water in which the hands are washed it keeps them soft and white. It will drive away many in- sects, and will be very useful to keep in the house. It is also used for setting mineral dyes. Charcoal. — This has so many uses that it should be kept on hand in every family. Both the wood and animal charcoals are use- ful. The best wood charcoal is not made from either the hardest or softest woods. It should be pulverized while still hot, and kept in closely stoppered, wide-mouthed bottles, as it is nearly valueless unless fresh. It is an excellent deodorizer, makes a good tooth-pow- der, is valuable in preserving meats etc., purifies wa'ter, and it has many medicinal virtues, especially for diseases of the digestive sys- tem. Its use is often referred to in our pages. A FEW USEFUL AETICLES 847 Disinfectants. — We have elsewhere discussed the merits of the more common disinfectants. The great value and impor- tance of their use is now so. well understood that every family storeroom should contain at least one or two of the more useful kinds, like carbolic acid and copperas or chloride of lime, and they should be freely used when occasion calls for them. Common salt is a great disinfectant. Soapsuds with salt added until it is a strong brine should be used for the first water when clothing is washed which has been used by a person sick with a contagious disease. Javelle Water. — Dissolve 1 lb. saleratus in 1 pint soft water; then mix 4 oz. fresh chloride of lime in 1 jjint water, stirring it to remove all lumps. It may not all dissolve. Pour the 2 mixtures together, stir and shake thoroughly; set aside and when settled pour off the dear liquid and bottle for use. Use glass or earthen vessels in preparing it. Useful for bleaching or washing and removing various stains. The part which is left after pouring off the clear li- quid can be used in cleaning the sink, white floors, wood tables etc. Lime Water. — Take a 2*gallon jar of pure soft water, and put in about 3 lbs. of unslacked lime; shake it well, and allow it to settle; pour off and bottle the clear liquid. This can be done 2 or 3 times until it ceases to taste of the lime; then add more lime. Lime is twice as soluble in cold as in hot wa'er, A little of this water added to cream or milk will keep it from "turning." Mixed with an equal quantity of milk, or much more, it is an excellent remedy for the bowel complaint in children, and irritability of the stomach, and, with a little of this added, milk will stay on the stomach when it would not otherwise. A little of it will prevent milk from " curd- ling " which would otherwise do so when heated, and it can thus be used for pies, etc. Bottles which have contained milk are sweetened by it. In fact, it has many uses. Keep it in green glass bottles, and well corked, or it will soon lose its virture. Washing Soda. — The carbonate of soda, or " washing-soda," is a strong alkali. This has so many uses that it should be iDought by the quantity, when it can be obtained quite cheaply. Then keep it locked in the storeroom so that it will not be misused by the servants. To prepare it for rise, put a pan on the stove and in it put 1 pint of the dry soda and 8 quarts of boiling water; leave it on the stove till fully dissolved, stirring it repeatedly; let it get cold, and then put it into preserve jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and label it plainly as "Washing Soda.^'' Some of this used in washing the sink, sink brushes, dish-cloths, etc., will keep them delightfully clean and sweet. A hot solution of this poured down the sink pipe from time to time, will prevent the formation of greasy deposits, as explained under '■ Sinks and Drains." For the value of soda in washing, see our arti- cle on " The Laundry." Polishing Materials. — Whiting, rottenstone, flour of emery, tripoli, and lime are the 5 articles most valuable for domestic uses and a small vial of each, plainly labeled, should be in every house. They are referred to and their uses more fully explained in our article on metal wares. 848 INSECT PESTS Uses of Tea Leaves. — Keep old tea leaves for a few days, then let them soak in a tin pail for ^ hour; strain through a sieve and use the liquor for all varnished paints; it cleans and makes it look equal to new. Do not use it on unvarnished paints. It will also clean windows, oil cloth, and looking-glasses. The tea leaves, squeezed nearly dry, make an excellent thing to scatter on a carpet before sweeping it. Uses of Newspapers. — These may be put to many more uses than many people imagine. They are good to clean glassware, like lamp- chimneys, windows, mirrors, etc., zinc, tinware, stoves and knives. The printing-ink on newspapers acts as a defiance to moths; there- fore wrapping things in newspapers is a first-rate preservative. They are invaluable under the carpet, laid over the regular carpet paper. They are also invaluable to keep out the air. Ice completely envel- oped in newspapers, so that all air is shut out, will keep a very long time. A jug of ice=water wrapped around in a newspaper with the ends of the paper twisted together to exclude the air will remain all night in any summer room with hardly any visible melting of the ice. In freezing ice=cream, when ice is scarce, pack the freezer f full of ice and salt, and finish with newspajoers, and the difference in the time of freezing and quality of the cream is not perceptible from the result when the freezer is packed full of ice. Cover ice molds with newspapers, and they will retain the cold better than a packing of cracked ice and salt, which must have crevices to admit the air. Oil. — To keep it from becoming rancid, add a few drops of ether. Rancid oil may be restored by boiling about 15 minutes with a little water and calcined magnesia; or filter through freshly burnt charcoal. ^o itnite oil and tvater, adding a little salts of tartar (i. e., car- bonate of potash) is the best and cheapest medium to use. (An alkali will cut the oil into fine particles, and then they can be held in water as an emulsion. ) Anfi' Corrosive Oil. — Put any quantity of olive=oil in a wide- necked bottle, and insert therein a few coils of very thin sheet lead; cork the bottle, and expose to the sun for 3 or 4 weeks; then pour off all that is quite clear. This oil will never corrode nor thicken, and can be used for clocks, sewing machines, and delicate machinery. INSECT PESTS. 11^ HE many insects which infest a house are a great annoyance W I to housekeepers. The following hints on the best ways to SJ I Ig get rid of them will be helpful to our readers. Ants. — (1) Slices of cucumber scattered about will drive away any ants, as well as crickets, cockroaches, etc. (2) Wet a sponge with any sweet syrup; when the ants flock to the sponge plunge it in boiling water, thus killing them. Then sweeten and set again. (3) For red ants, grease a plate with lard, as they prefer that to sugar; put a few sticks around white ant. INSECT PESTS 849 the edge, and when they flock to the plate turn it bottom up over the fire, and they will fall in with the melting lard. Then set the plate again. (4) Keeping a bag of sulphur in a drawer or cupboard will drive them away. (5) Cayenne pepper blown into the cracks and scattered about repels them. (6) Apply with a brush to shelves and crevices where they congregate, very hot alum water, proportioned at 1 lb. alum to 3 pints water. (7) For black ants, scatter a few leaves of wormwood about their haunts; or pour benzolene down their holes. (8) Quassia chips boiled in water, and a very little soft soap added, will destroy black ants. (9) Rubbing shelves with carbolic soap is often effectual, and this is a good disinfectant also. (10) Sweet fern or cloves scattered about repels them. (11) Put a little sweet- ened water in a dish and stir in a little tartar emetic — only a little is needed; set it where they congregate and it will finish them. Don't let children get at this. (12) Pennyroyal, either an infusion of the. plant or the oil, is disagreeable to ants and all insects. (13) Wash- ing shelves, and while they are moist rubbing on salt thickly, drives away ants. To Exterminate Ants from a Lawn or Garden. — (1) Pour carbolic acid water down their nests. (2) Boil 1 lb. of cape aloes in a gallon of water and add 6 oz. of powdered camphor. Excavate the ant-hill and pour in a quart of this, covering as much space as possi= ble, and then fill the nest again. Where the nests cannot be found, dilute this largely with water, and sprinkle it over leaves, etc., through the nose of a watering can. (3) Tobacco water is effectual if poured on for a few nights till they disappear. (4) Puffing Dal- mation insect powder into their holes every morning for a few days will usually clear out ants. (5) Another excellent exterminator is to take 4 oz. potash and ^ lb. flour of brimstone. Set them in an iron or earthen pan over the fire until dissolved and united; afterwards beat to a powder. Infuse some of this in water and wherever sprinkled about the house or grounds the ants will die or leave. (6) Another plan is to punch a hole in the ant-hill with a wooden stick or iron rod; pour a little bisulphide of carbon into this hole, and then fill it by pressing the earth around it; the fumes will penetrate the hill and exterminate the ants. As this is an explosive substance it must be used with care, but if kept away from the fire is compara- tively safe. It is a volatile liquid, and its fumes are very destructive to animal life. Anthrenus Varins. — This is an insect which feeds on almost any dry animal substance; whalebone, combs, horn scoops, etc., are often attacked by them. They often appear in museums, drug stores, etc. Bisulphide of sulphur will kill them in all stages. The odor of camphor will keep non-infested materials from their attacks. Bedbugs. — Good fresh insect powder, freely used, will kill them. Either kerosene, benzine, gasoline or naptha will be effectual if thor- oughly applied to all cracks in bedsteads, etc. The foregoing 5 rem- edies are probably the best things, and are effectual. A strong solu- tion of salt and water will kill them; then fill the cracks with salt. The alum solution given among the exterminators is effectual. So is 54 850 INSECT PESTS turpentine, and so is oil of sassafras thinned with a little alcohol — use the red instead of white sassafras oil. The above are much better to use than Paris green and other strong poisons. The eggs are laid early in March. Apply the remedy freely, once in March and repeat in July or August, and they can be exterminated. Bees.—{1) To destroy the black bees, place on the floor where they assemble 2 or 3 shallow tin vessels half filled with water, with strips of cardboard running from the floor to the edge. They run up the cardboard and perish in a watery grave. (2) Cucumber peel scattered around is about the simplest and best thing to use. Bites and Stings of Insects. — For the stings of bees and wasps, first extract the sting and then apply a paste made of soda and water. It gives almost instant relief. For fleas, bugs, gnats and mosquitoes, apply a preparation of 1 oz. of glycerine to 50 drops of dilute carbol- ic acid; or use carbolized vaseline; or use a solution of borax and ammonia, or strong alum water and glycerine. The juice of an onion, or anything " strong," if applied at once, will serve for any of these bites, always extracting the sting, however, of a beo or wasp. A paste of powdered ipecacuana in water is excellent for bites of scorpions, etc. Nettle Stings. — Examine the skin and remove all prickles, and treat the same as for stings of bees or wasps. Black Beetles. — (1) Throw a mixture of Per- A \k, sian insect powder and powdered wormseed around ^ fl mi/ where they frequent. (2) Use powdered borax, X^fcijii / about |- lb. to each room. Scatter it about freely, \ BH / and particularly blow it in cracks and crevices \HBIX where they can hide. It makes them emigrate. /'■hIK. Those which it kills may be swept up afterwards / iillB^i without injury to carpets or furniture. Repeat once f /nIPF J,^- a week until they disappear. (3) Camphor dissolv- | 'I ed in spirits of wine and painted over their haunts / ^ is often an efPectual remedy. (4) Cucumber pe^l black beetle scattered about is one of the simplest and best methods of getting rid of them. (5) Onions chopped up, mixed with borax, and spread on bread will fix them. The onion attracts them and the borax kills them. Bristle^ Tail or Silver-Fish. — These little silvery insects feed on silken clothing, tapestry, and often books. Good fresh insect pow- der will kill them. So will sulphur. Cabbage Woi'ms.- — Dissolve ^ lb. saltpetre in 2 gallons of water, and apply with a sprinkler. If one application is not sufiicient apply again. Caterpillars. — (1) Boil together equal quantities' of wormwood, rue and any cheap tobacco. Make the liquid strong^ Sprinkle it on young leaves and branches every morning and e:^ning while the fruit is ripening. ( 2 ) Hang pieces of woolen rag on every tree and bush. The caterpillars will congregate on them, and are then easily destroyed. INSECT PESTS 851 The Carpet Beetle {also called Buffalo Moth). — Gasoline, naptha, kerosene and benzine are all efficacious — probably benzine is the best to use on the whole. When they once infest a house it is difficult to get rid of them wholly without energetic measures. Take up the carpets, steam them, or spray them well with benzine, and spray around the baseboards and in the cracks in the floors with benzine, or pour it from a can with a small nozzel — a stream the size of a knitting needle is enough, as only a little is needed. Then fill the cracks with a moderately thick mixture of plaster of paris and water before relaying the carpet. This will keep others out of the cracks. . Pepper is disagreeable to the moths, and scattered on the floor before relaying the carpet will tend to keep them from laying a new batch of eggs there. Placing strips of tarred roofing paper around the borders of the room and using carpet lining furnishes probably the best protec- tion. Near the baseboards is the most vulnerable part. Apply the benzine there at once if they begin work. The steam generated by pressing a very hot iron on wet cloths laid on a carpet also kills both moth and larvse. Benzine v/ill kill them on clothing, covered furni- ture, etc., and also apply it freely in chests or drawers in which infested clothing has been stored. The insect was introduced into America from Europe in 1872. The moth lays an egg which hatches into a larvae, and that does the mischief. Its worst work is done in June, July and August. The insect feeds on the pollen of various shrubs, and is particularly fond of spirea. When this insect appears it is not best to have that plant near the home, as the moth will fly from that to the house and lay its eggs. Cockroaches. — (1) Sprinkle borax plentifully in their haunts, not 1 or 2 times, but renew every day for 1 or 2 weeks; it banishes them. (2) Lay the parings of green cucumbers at night where they congregate; repeat each night and in a short time they disappear. (3) Sprinkle hellbore on the floor at night; it finishes them. (4) Camphor gum scattered where they frequent banishes th'em. (5) Sprinkle liberally where they rendezvous 37 parts borax, 9 parts starch, and 4 parts cocoa, thoroughly mixed. (6) Inject into the cracks, and apply with a brush to the woodwork about their hiding places, the strong, hot solution of alum given among the " Extermi- nators." It is good also for bedbugs and other insects. If a moveable wooden wash stand becomes infested, wash it with hot suds, dry it in the sunlight, and soak every joint with strong ammonia. To pre- vent their return spread mucilage lightly on squares of brown paper, dust on borax thick- ly, and scatter these around. For a station- ary stand pour some copperas or chloride of lime down the waste pipe 2 or 3 times a week, and scatter borax freely in the lower part of the stand. Croton bugs, which are only a species of cockroach, when thoroughly infesting a bath- room, are probably best exterminated by OOOKEOAOH. 852 INSECT PESTS or DEATH WATCH. using a sulphur candle. These can be bought at a drug store grocer's and bear on them full directions for their use. Crickets. — (1) Scatter cucumber parings about and they will disappear. Probably the simplest thing. (2) Trap them in a covered box with a perforated lid containing a little salt or oatmeal. (3) Half fill some jam pots with water and set at night as a trap for them. Tlie ''Dcatii Wcdcli.'''' — This is a species of beetle which attacks furniture and sometimes food. The noise is made by rapping the wood with its head. Woodwork may be protected from their attacks by washing it with a solution of corrosive sublimate and alcohol, or car- bolic acid water. Books, etc., may be fumigated with the fumes of burning sulphur, or exposed to the odor of carbolic acid. Benzine will kill them. Earwigs. — Place a length of hollow bean stalk or other hollow tube where the insects collect, and each morning empty them into boil- ing water by blowing though it sharply. Their eak-wig. favorite food is dahlias, roses, carnations, etc. For protection, place flowerpots on the top of stakes. Tie a piece of wool dip^Ded in oil around the stake, and also around the flower stalk about a foot from the earth. This will prevent their climbing up. Fleas. — To drive from the bed, scatter dried comomile flowers about the bed, or sprinkle the bed or night dress with a little spirits of camphor, or a few drops of lavender. To keep from the person sponge yourself with a solution of ^ ounce camphor and ^ ounce tincture of myrrh in 1 quart water. Shake well before using. On animals, oil of pennyroyal will certainly drive them away, or where the herb abounds use a decoction. Wash or sprinkle them with it. Remove and burn old straw, litter, etc. On hogs sprinkle the above on their backs and ears while they are feeding. Carbolic acid is also good, and so is Persian insect powder, or cayenne pepper. Flies. — (1) Mix 1 part spirits of lavender with 5 parts water; scatter it around freely and persistently and it will drive away the flies. (2) A castor-oil plant or Japanese lily growing in a room will kill many and drive away the rest. (3) Laurel oil spread on picture frames, curtains, hokse=fi,y. etc., will afPord protection. (4) Boil 1 oz. of quassia chips in 1 pint of water for 10 minutes; strain and add 4 oz. molasses. This will attract and destroy them. (5) Insect powder if blown about will clear a room, (6) Wood ashes thrown into drains and on heaps of rubbish destroys the eggs. (7) On animals, a strong infusion of smartweed applied with a sponge or brush will keep them off for 24 hours. Or, apply soapsuds containing a little carbolic acid. (8) It is said that a' branch of elder brush hung in a room will keep out flies, as they detest its smell. (9) A mixture of sugar and borax will INSECT PESTS 853 kill them. (10) A paste made of 1 pint of laurel leaves and ^ jaint glycerine, and applied to window and door casings will rid a room of flies. Two applications will keep a kitchen clear for two weeks, it is said. The smell is not deleterious to human beings; but the leaves taken into the stomach are poisonous. (11) Stables can be freed from them by keeping the floor well swept and clean, and sprinkling on kerosene oil — using but little. A good stickjj fly-paper can be made by soaking paper in a strong solution of alum and drying it; then take boiled linseed oil and resin, melt it and add honey; then spread it on the i^repared paper, (2) Equal parts, by measure, of castor oil and melted resin, thoroughly mixed, and spread on writing or other non=porous paper, will destroy them. Gncvts. — Same as mosquitoes. Also the smell of turpentine is said to drive them away; saturate a rag and tie to the hat when fish- ing, or smear the hands and face with an ointment scented with it. Harvest Bugs. — Smear the legs over with a decoction of colo- cynth; or apply 1 oz. insect powder macerated in 1 oz. weak spirit, and then diluted with 2f oz. water. The insects will not attack the parts thus smeared. Insects on Trees, Shrubs, Etc. — These may be destroyed by tying brimstone (flour of sulphur) in a gauze bag, and sprinkling it over the plants. Lice. — (1) Wash the part affected with water containg 1 part carbolic acid to 20 of water. Or, (2) use 1 part of sulphurous {not sulphuric) acid to 8 of water. The latter is excellent to destroy par- asites on furniture, dogs, etc. Mosquitoes. — (1) As a preventive, mix 50 parts of glycerine with 1 part of dilute carbolic acid, and rub it on the exposed skin. The smell of the carbolic acid may be disguised with a little lavender if desired. (2) Kerosene or any of the essential oils applied to the skin is a protection against these pests. (3) To keep from the bed, hang on the bedstead a few bruised leaves of pennyroyal, or a sponge dipped in camphorated spirits, or lay over the head of the bed a cloth moistened with a teaspoonful of carbolic acid. (4) To drive from a room, burn camphor in a tin dish over a lamp so that it evaporates without igniting; or burn a little insect powder {pyrethrum) on a hot shovel, or sprinkle a little of it on a piece of burning camphor; or scatter oil of pennyroyal about the room. A bottle of pennyroyal left uncorked in a room over night will clear them out. (5) The castor=bean plant raised in tubs about the house or planted in the garden will rid the house of them. Moths. — Benzine or gasoline will kill both moth and eggs, and can be applied without injury to carpets, clothing, etc. Good fresh insect powder freely applied, will protect clothing, feathers, furs, etc., as they cannot live where it is, but it does not kill the eggs Moths in carpets may be killed by laying on a wet cloth and apply- ing a very hot iron; the steam thus generated kills both moth and eggs; or sprinkle on benzine or gasoline, which kills them both. 854 INSECT PESTS Get English lavender from a florist, or buy the dried English lavender at a drugstore. Scattered on closet shelves, in drawers and in trunks it will pro- tect woolens from the attacks of moths. It is one of the best of all the odoriferous articles now known as a preventive. moth. A room infested with moths is sometimes fumi- gated as follows: Open drawers, spread out clothes, etc., so that the fumes can penetrate everywhere, and put a large piece of camphor into an iron vessel containing a few ashes; set this in a pan of water, wet the camphor with alcohol, light it, and leave the room, closing all doors and windows tightly. In 1 hour the room can be opened again and aired for 1 or 2 hours. Rooms are also fumigated for moths, sometimes, by burning Dalmatian insect powder in them. The old=fashioned plan for protection was to rely on strongly aromatic sub- stances, the value of which consisted in the fact that their odor was disagreeable to the moths. Camphor, cedarwood, tobacco, Russia leather, cloves and other articles have been used, and it is now claimed that lavender is the best of all. None of these things kill the eggs, however, while benzine and gasoline do efifect- ually. If insect powder is used be sure it is fresh and good. If odoriferous sub- stances are relied on, use enough to make the odor reasonably strong, as that is their only merit, and renew them when they become weak. The Life Histoey of Moths. — During the cold weather of the winter season the worms lie torpid; they are transformed into chrysalids early in the spring, and in about 3 weeks they hatch out into the winged state. They fly about for a time and then lay their eggs, when they at once die. They always seek out dark places to deposit their eggs, which are very small — too small for the unaided eye to detect. After about 2 weeks these minute eggs hatch out into small wormis which do the mischief, and which begin their work at once. As all moths work in the dark, articles which are in the light are not so much exposed to their depredations. Slugs and Snails. — (1) Put salt on their trails (not tails). (2) Take cabbage leaves, soften them in an oven, cover with fresh drip- ping, and lay where they frequent. The leaves will soon be covered with slugs and snails and they can be destroyed. (3) No slugs will approach the smell of garlic, and a few pieces placed' near plants, etc., will keep them away. (4) A piece of haircloth tied around the base of a fruit tree will keep them off. (5) If a few slices of turnip are laid about in the evening the slugs will gather on them and may then be destroyed. (6) Garden walls with salt sprinkled on top and at the bottom will not be troubled with snails crawling over them. Wasjjs. — Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of pulverized commercial potas- sium cyanide into the entrance of the nest without disturbing it or the insects. They enter, never to come out again. Weevils. — Weevils in beans, rice, wheat, and peas may be destroyed by subjecting the grain to a temperature of 130° to 145° for an hour. This does not hurt them for eating, but injures some of them for seed. Beans, etc., designed for eating can be treated to the hot bath. If a little bisulphide of carbon is put into the center of a bin, by means of a tube, the fumes will soon destroy all weevils or grain insects which may be within the bin. See what we say about the use of this substance under "Ants." INSECT PESTS 855 A WORD ABOUT EXTERMINATORS.— Benzine and gasoline are among the cheapest and best insect exterminators known. They may be applied freely to clothing, carpets, upholstered furniture, mattresses, etc. ; the odor soon evaporates, but all vermin, and their eggs also, are effectually destroyed. Their inflammability makes care necessary when ignition is possible. Insect powder kills moths, bedbugs, fleas, and small insects; the larger insects it does not kill. Hot alum water (1 lb. alum to 3 pints water) is death to all vermin where it c&n be applied, and is an excellent thing for com- mon use. All insects dread pennyroyal; when the fresh herb cannot be gathered get the oil of J^^ pennyroyal; pour some in a saucer and steejD g=^|^^^^ ^^ s> cotton wadding in it, and place in bureau draw- ^^^^^^^^^ ers, boxes, closet shelves, etc. Ants, cockroach- Jf ^ ^** es, etc., will soon disappear. Also excellent for V brushing off' the seed tick. Applied to dogs, geasshoppee. sheej), horses, cattle and swine, it will keep oft' fleas, flies and mosquitoes. Slices of cucumber scattered about will drive away ants, cockroaches, grasshoppers, etc. The smell of lavender is disagreeable to flies and moths, and it is one of the best things to use as a preventive. Use the dried sprigs, scattered around freely, for moths, and the spirits of lavender in water for flies, as explained for " Flies." Oil of peppermint, in vapor, is destructive to cockroaches, etc. Oil of cedar repels moths and is destructive to vermin. The best disposition to make of dead insects is to sweep them up and throw them into the fire. To Clear Fruit Trees from Insects. — Into 3 or 4 gallons of water put -J lb. tobacco, ^ lb. sulphur, ^ peck of unslacked lime; syringe the trees well with this mixture and it will effectually destroy blight. RATS AND MICE. — Bats.— Mix together 8 oz. strong cheese and 2 oz. squills, and place in the haunts of rats ; they eat the cheese, the squills act at once, and the rats die immediately. Much better than the usual rat poison. Or, sprinkle cayenne pepper in their holes, or place a mixture of powdered glass and tar in their holes and runaways. It banishes them. If they infest an empty house, scatter chloride of lime on the top floor — they will retreat to the one below; then scatter it there, and they will retreat to the next lower story. Drive them thus to the cellar; scatter there and they will leave. Do not scatter in the lower stories flrst, however, as that only drives - them up. After driving them out keep a little of the lime in the cellar and they will not come back — ^it gives a permanent riddance. In using any poison, place a shallow basin of water near it; rats or mice will at once run to and drink it, dying there instead of in their holes. Mice. — Mix tartar emetic with pumpkin seeds, cheese, or some favorite food, and place for them. They will leave. Camphor gum 856 INSECT PESTS mixed with seeds, or placed in drawers, trunks, etc., will preserve them from mice. They dislike the odor of camphor and keep away from it. Peppermint, or any other kind of mint, scattered about the shelves will keep them away, it is said. Pumpkin seeds make the best bait for mice traps. Cayenne pepper will drive them away where it is scattered. Chloride of lime is as effectual with mice as with rats. Saturate a rag with a solution of cayenne pepper and stufp it in a rat or mouse hole — they will not touch it. THE LAUNDRY. ^Ty HERE is probably no part of the regular home work which W I it is more difficult to have done right than that belonging (S) I vg) to the laundry. Many or most of the women who claim to be good laundresses display an appalling ignorance of the subject, and the woman who trusts her work to them will often be dismayed at the result. Those who do their own wash- ing will welcome every hint which will help them, and those who do not, should take pleasure in knowing how it ought to be done, for sooner or later it is sure to be of use to the possessor. The house- wife should know why one article" has acquired a yellow tinge, and what will eradicate it; why another has suddenly and unaccountably fallen into holes; and what is left undone to her table linen that it comes home without the bright, glossy look, which it ought to have. By the improved methods of washing now known ^ the labor can be saved, and these we aim to explain, together with the best methods of handling various kinds of goods. The laundry should contain 3 or 4 tubs (the paper or saw=dust being the best, as they will not fall to pices if kept dry ) ; 2 or 3 pails for drawing water; a long smooth stick for stirring the clothes while boiling; 1 medium=sized tin pail; 1 large dipper; 1 large and 1 small basket; 2 cotton bags, 3 feet long and 2 feet wide, in which the most delicate articles can be placed before being boiled; 1 or 2 high wooden clothes-horses, and a line on which to dry clothes in bad weather; an ironing table; a closet for holding irons, ironing blankets, etc. In the closet should be kept 5 or 6 doz. clothes-pins (the wooden being much the best); starch and gum arable; bags for straining the starch; bluing; ^ doz. irons; 1 polish- ing iron; ironing blankets and sheets; a lump of beeswax wrapped in cloth; a board 1^ feet long and 8 inches wide on which to iron shirt bosoms; a paper or cushion of pins; 1 bottle of kerosene or washing fluid, and 3 or 4 good iron=holders. The ventilation of the room should be especially attended to, so that the steam can be car- ried off without the necessity of a draft from an open door or win- dow. Ventilators high up in the wall which can be opened and closed at will are best. Water must be convenient; either drawn from pipes, or from a pump or well. Rain water is the very best for washing, and should be caught and preserved if possible. Where soft water is used, only ^ as much soap is needed for washing. We else- where explain how to soften hard water. WASHING CLOTHES — By long custom Monday has become established as wash day. There are many advocates of Tuesday wash- ing, however, and the latter has many advantages, as Monday can be devoted to sorting over the clothes, mending them, etc. Before 857 858 THE LAUNDRY being washed tlie clothes should be looked over, any needed mend- ing done, and any stains from fruit, grass, etc., removed, as stains are much more easily removed before they are touched by soap (we explain elsewhere how to remove stains of all kinds). The clothes should then be arranged in lots, the laces and linens being put by themselves, the bed and body linen in another pile, table linen, towels and doilies, in another, colored dresses, socks and stockings together, and flannels by themselves. And now as to the washing. One of the best methods for reducing its labor is by the use of kero- sene, as follows. Kerosene f 07' Washing. — Fill the boiler |- full of soft water and shave in 1 lb. of good soap. When the water boils and the soap is dissolved, add 2^ tablespoons of kerosene oil. Now pick out the cleanest pieces, put them loosely into the boiler and let boil hard for 10 or 15 minutes, turning them occasionally; then take them out and put in the next cleanest, boil the same way, and so on until all are thus boiled. On taking out each lot look them over, and if there are any dirty spots on them rub them on the washboard, but usual- ly no rubbing is required; then rinse them in clear, hot rinsing water, then in the bluing water, and then wring out for drying. Do not put too many pieces in at a time. Should the water boil low, add more, and ^ lb. of shaved soap and a tablespoon of oil. The kerosene takes out the dirt as if by magic, does not in the least in- jure even fine clothes, and leaves no trace of its odor when they are dry. Some people measure the water on putting it in the boiler and add 1 tablespoon of kerosene to each pail of water used, and that is a good proportion, producing excellent results. Washing Fluid. — The next best labor saving device is by the use of washing fluid, made as follows: In ^ gallon of water dissolve 1 lb. of washing soda- add 1 gallon of clear lime water (have it from freshly slacked lime), stir together, let it settle, and then pour oflp the clear water; to this add 3 oz. borax dissolved in 2 pints boiling water; let it get cold and add 3 oz, pulverized carbonate of ammonia; when fully dissolved pour off into bottles, and cork tightly. To use, add 1 cupful to each 6 gallons of water; let the clothes soak in.it over night, in the morning rub them a little if they need it (many of the cleanest ones will need no rubbin,^), run them through the wringer, then put them in the boiler and scald, then put them through the wringer again, pass through the rinsing water and hang out to dry. This saves half the work of washing, and is much less injurious to the clothes than most washing fluids (it is not nearly as hard on clothes as the old method of rubbing on the wash board which wears them out) and is greatly liked by those who use it. Washing Fluid iVb 2. — Take 8 oz. of unslacked lime, borax the size of an egg, 1 ib. sal soda, and 1 gallon of water; bring it to a boil, remove from .the fire, let settle, pour off the clear liquid and bottle for use. For use, into a boiler of cold water put soap and 1 teacup of this fluid. Put the clothes in dry, and when they come to a boil they are ready to take out; wet the next boiler of clothes, and put into the same suds; let them come to the boiling point, but THE LAUNDRY 859 do not boil; then rinse through hot water, and then in the bluing water. Some of these improved methods should be tried by house- keepers, and washing day will be robbed of half its terrors. Soaking Clothes. — Thoughtful women often ponder the question " To soak or not to soak?" The first action of soaking is to soften the dirt so that it is re- moved with less wear and tear to the clothes, but when soaked all night the objec- tion is that it does too much. While the first action of the soap or alkali is to combine with the dirt and render it soluble, if allowed to stand 12 hours or so it forms new compounds, less apparent to the eye, but harder to remove. This is oft- en the reason that clothes have a dead, heavy smell after being done up. This is particularly apt to be the case if washing powders or washing fluids are used to soak them in. Washing Fluids and Powdees. — The washing fluids on the market usually contain ammonia or chloride of lime, and a proportion of borax, and the pow- ders are usually made of soap too hard to dissolve readily, which is dried, crushed, and mixed with powdered potash or borax. If proper care is taken they can,, however, be used. A tablespoon of either, stirred into a tubful of hard water be- fore putting in the clothes, will soften it. But never on any account put any such powder into the water while the clothes are in it, as the strong alkalies they usually contain instead of at once dissolving in the water may settle on the clothes and eat holes in them. Washing With Turpentine. — Turpentine has been sometimes recommended as an addition to washing fluid. When applied in hot water to the bare arms of the laundress it is liable to be absorbed through the pores of the skin and cause illness, and hence it is best not to use it. Although it possesses some value as a detergent, the above fact should be borne in mind when its use is recommended. The Height of Tubs. — It will save many a backache if the tubs are fixed at the right height. If you are tall, raise the tub; if short, have a little box or stool to stand on. Many women are careless about these little points and suffer in con- sequence. SOAPS. — A cheap hard soap can be made by shaving 4 large bars of yellow soap into thin slices; put it into 2 gallons of rain or soft water, and when nearly dissolved add 3 oz. borax and 2 lbs. sal soda; stir till all is melted, and pour into a shallow pan or large tub; when nearly cool stir in slowly 1 oz. liquid ammonia, mixing it well. Let stand 1 or 2 days, cut into cakes or bars, and dry in a warm place. It can be made for 3 cents a lb., and in less than ^ hour, and is good for all household purposes. This recipe has often sold for $5. Soap No. 2. — In 3 pints cold water dissolve a 1 lb. box of pul- verized lye; melt 5^ lbs. of clean grease, and strain it through cheese cloth; when the lye^water is cool, and the grease cool enough to bear the hand, pour together and stir thoroughly until thickened. Pour into a box or dripping-pan lined with greased paper, and let stand in a warm place for 24 hours; then cut into bars. Good. Soft Soap. — Where lye is not readily made from wood ashes, commercial potash is used. Dissolve 8 lbs. potash, broken small, in an iron kettle containing about 12 quarts of boiling water; melt the same weight of clarified fat in another iron kettle; into a clean barrel put 3 or 4 gallons of hot soft water, and then put in alternately a ladleful each of fat and lye, stirring it well each time to mix it thor- oughly; when it is all in, fill the barrel with hot water, stirring it in a ladleful at a time, and then stir till it is all creamy. Now let it stand in a cool place for 12 or 13 weeks, and it can then be used, making good soft soap. 860 THE LAUNDRY Substitute for Soft Soap. — Put thin shavings of hard soap in water, simmer slowly until thoroughly dissolved, and remove from the stove while very thin; if just right it will be of the consistency of thick soft soap, is excellent for laundry purposes, and can be used by those whose hands are roughened by soft soap. Soap Bark. — This is not appreciated by most women. It can be bought at any drug store, and is one of the best cleaning materials known and is suitable for almost any dark colored cloth; but it is lia- ble to stain delicate colors, as it contains a little color itself. To prepare it for use; pour 1 quart of boiling water over about 5 cents worth of the bark, let it boil gently 2 hours, strain it through cheese cloth, and it can be used at once, or bottled for future use. Sponge out grease spots, etc., with it, and then sponge or rinse with clean 'water. Its cleansing power comes from the vegetable principle saponine which it contains. About Soaps. — The fats of -which soaps are made are composed of fatty acids,, combined with glycerides. When boiled with an alkali the fatty acids unite with the alkali and form a compound called soap, and the glycerine is set free. In soap factories this glycerine is saved and sold, and the glycerine of commerce comes largely from soap factories, which obtain it in this way. The soap owes its cleans- ing power to its ready solubility in water, and the fact that its alkali will then readily unite with the greasy matters which usually constitute "dirtiness," and they will then be soluble in water, so that the cleansing power of soap depends on the amount of alkali which it contains. Pure alkali would be injurious to both the skin and the fabric, but it is milder in its action when combined with the fatty acids (forming soap) although retaining its cleansing properties. Soft soaps are made with potash and harxl soaps with soda. The cleansing power of soft soap results from its excess of alkali. Curd soap is the purest soap of commerce. It is made of tallow, with a little olive oil to impart softness. It enters into the com- position of many fancy soaps. Windsor soap (when genuine) is made with olive oil and tallow. Castile soap is made of soda, olive oil and water. When marbled, a little sulphate of iron and sulphuretted lye are added. Carbolic soap contains some carbolic acid, and possesses some disinfecting power. Cheap soaps are often "loaded" with ^erra aZ6a (white earth), resin etc. The latter, although it makes soap " lather " profusely, does not increase its cleansing properties, and is used as an adulterant. Soap is best purchased in quantities and allowed to dry, as it then wears much longer. If dried too fast it will crack and break. The best way to cut cakes of soap in two is with strong thread or small twine, drawing it across and pressing it on the cake. It cuts it better than a knife, but a knife must be used to shave soap. Hyposulphite of Soda. — This is a colorless, transparent salt, and is sometimes recommended for use instead of washing soda. It possesses peculiar bleaching properties, and for fabrics bleached with chlorine it is used as a dechlorizing agent. If used in washing linen and cotton their appearance is much improved. RINSING — The great object in rinsing clothes is to extract the soap, and they should be thoroughly rinsed until all the suds is removed. The water they are first rinsed in should be hot, as that extracts the soap much better than cold water ever will. If the soap is not all extracted it will combine with the bluing and give a yellow tinge to the clothes. On being taken from the rinsing water the articles are wrung out, and those to be starched are put in one bas- ket (it is a good idea to first spread a large, clean cloth in it); the others are put in another basket and hung out to dry at once Bluing. — The amount of bluing used should be merely enough to overcome the yellow tinge. Put enough in the water to give it a THE LAUNDRY 861 pale blue color when a little is held up in the hollow of the hand, thous^h some laundresses use more than pthers. Never let clothes lie in the bluing water; take 1 article at a time, dip it in once or twice, and wring it out, and so continue until all are done. Add a little blue from time to time to keep up the shade. White goods, by the constant application of soap, and from other causes in the course of wear, manifest a tendency to turn yellow. The use of bluing is merely to overcome this and increase the apparent whiteness. For a good bluing; (1) Buy 5 cents worth of indigo blue at the drug store, powder and put it in a quart bottle, and fill it with clear rain water. (2) A ball blue can be formed by mixing finely=powdered indigo with an equal amount of starch, or less if a very deep color is desired; then make it into a paste with warm water, and form it into small lumps or cakes. (3) In 10 oz. water dissolve 1 oz. indigo=carmine and J^ oz. gum arable. Clothes weingebs should be oiled carefully every week. Keep a little oil=can filled with machine oil for this purpose. Clothes will run through easily when the wringer is well oiled; but otherwise it will go hard and waste the strength. If color gathers on the rubber rollers it can be taken off by washing them with a small cloth wet with kerosene oil, and then with soapsuds. DRYING CLOTHES. — Before hanging clothes out to dry fold them to remove the creases of the wringer, and they will dry much better. Pocket=handkerchiefs should be folded double and hung up, 3 or 4 above each other, taken down when half dry, rolled up tightly, clapped, and they are ready to iron. Table linen is treated the same way, taken down when very damp, carefully folded ready to mangle, first to give it a fine gloss, and afterwards ironed. Body linen is dried much more; if too dry it must be sprinkled with clean water very slightly, and rolled up for ironing or starching. Never allow articles to be pegged singly to the lines on a windy day; let them be doubled, or even quadrupled, and much trouble from dilapidated cor- ners will be saved. Never, except in fine hot w'eather, dry starched articles out of doors, or they will lose half their stiffness. If the clothes are dried in the house try to manage so that they dry mainly during the night, when the laundress is out of the room, "as the moist, heated room is quite injurious. Grass bleaching is the best way to whiten clothes that have become yellow from any cause. Spread them out on the grass, and if the sun is very hot, sprinkle them 2 or 3 times with water from the nose of a watering pot. It is best to take up the clothes every night and put them in a tub of cold water. The sun and air have a magical effect in whitening linen. After bleaching, they can be rinsed, blued, and done up. Clothes Lines and Clothes Pins. — A galvanized wire clothes line is the best to use, as it need not be taken down, and there is no dan- ger that it will break. Always pass a clean damp cloth along a clothes line to free it from dust, before hanging the clothes on it. Wooden clothes=pins are the best to use. A clothes=pin apron, made by facing a large square piece of cloth on the outside for a pocket, is much more convenient than a basket, as it allows free use of the hands. Clothes=pins will be more durable if boiled a few min- utes and dried quickly once a month or so. FOLDING CLOTHES.— Clothes are best folded the night before ironing day, as there is then time to attend to all the little details. 862 THE LAUNDRY Skilful sprinkling makes ironing much easier. The water should be sprinkled on very evenly, not in great spots here and there. The quickest way is to take the articles as they come, without sorting them at all; sprinkle the first thing that comes to hand, then the next, and lay it on top, and so on until a pile is made; then pu^h it away and make another, and so on. A small wisp broom, kept for that purpose, makes one of the best things with which to sprinkle clothes, as it scatters the water on evenly. When all are sprinkled, turn the first pile over, and carefully smooth and fold the garments, putting the different kinds together as far as possible. Roll up thin fabrics in muslin or a coarse towel to keep the outside from drying. Fold handkerchiefs and napkins but once, pull straight, lay them on top of one another, and roll up tightly in muslin. Roll towels the same way, but snap out the fringe before rolling, having it quite damp, as otherwise it is soon broken and worn off. Put the starched clothes by themselves, and do not turn them until just before iron- ing. The moisture is retained in the finer clothes by putting the sheets, etc., at the top of the basket. A thick cloth spread over the basket will keep it from drying. STARCHING CLOTHES.— For boiled starch use 1 heaping tablespoon of good starch to each pint of water. To make: Wet 2 tablespoons of starch with 8 tablespoons of cold water, mixing it to a smooth paste; then add slowly, stirring all the time, 2 pints boiling water; then boil it (not simmer) 15 to 20 minutes, stirring it fre- quently (do not let it burn), and then strain it while hot through cheese cloth (it will have to be squeezed through). It should be used hot, and when you thin it use hot water. To starch shirts or collars, wet the bosom, cuffs and collars; wring very dry, and starch while damp; rub in the starch well so as to have it go clear through; wring them in a dry towel, wipe off all starch left on the outside, spread out evenly, rub down with a damp cloth, roll tightly together, let them lie 2 or 3 hours, and iron. If a blister appears when ironing, dampen the finger and moisten it clear through; it will then iron out if the starch goes clear through, but not otherwise. Use thin starch for dresses, aprons, and children's clothing, and have it rather thin for skirts; for table linen have only the thinnest kind imaginable. To make clothes very stiff starch them and dry, then starch them again and dry. This wnll make them very stiff and they will iron easily; it is better than to have the starch very stiff. To prevent a crust from forming over starch put a close cover over it as soon as made. There are hardly any 2 laundresses who proceed exactly alike in starching and ironing, and in hardly any department of housework is practice more essential to make perfect. Borax, salt, gum arable, kerosene, butter, lard, white wax, soap, spermaceti and turpentine are all used by laundresses to mix with starch to give a gloss to the linen and prevent the iron from sticking. We prefer kerosene, (1 tea- spoon to a quart of starch), and for shirts and collars a little sperm or white wax THE LAUNDEY 863 also. Some use 1 teaspoon of strained gum arable water to a pint of starch, and there are numberless combinations, like salt and lard, sperm and borax, etc., advo- cated and vouched for by different laundresses. Any of these preparations liked best can be added to the clear starch given above, to give a gloss. " Cold Starching i'"' — This is not as much used as " hot starching.' To prepare cold starch allow 4 oz. starch to 1 quart of water ; pour on a little water first, and let it stand, as it takes some time to dissolve; then add the rest, stirring all the time; strain through a muslin bag, and use. This would be thick, and would need diluting for many articles. A little borax and soap are sometimes added. Articles dipped in cold starch need no damping. They can be rolled up smoothly and ironed in about 10 minutes; if they get dry from being left too long they must be dipped in again. Flour Starch. — Mix 3 level tablespoons of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water; then add, stirring constantly, 1 quart of boiling water, and boil hard ^ hour, stirring frequently; then strain through thin cloth and use. Many people use this for com- mon calicoes. Coffee Starch. — Make starch the usual way and add enough perfectly clear coffee to color it (about 2 cups); then strain it and add a piece of spermaceti the size of a pea. Use this starch for dark colored calicoes, muslins or percales. IRONING. — In ironing it is a good idea to begin with some of the plain pieces, like sheets and pillow cases, which will get the irons in good condition for the starched articles; then iron the starched clothes, and then finish the plain pieces. Iron starched clothes until they are perfectly dry; they should be made very damp, but damp the other clothes but little. Iron dresses on the wrong side first, and finish on the right. Fine muslins are best ironed twice in opposite directions. Always iron laces and embroideries by the thread of the material. To iron a shirt use heavy, well heated irons. Lay the back of the sleeve smoothly on the table, and iron each side; then iron the wrist band, first the wrong side and then the right side. Next iron the shoulder strap, then the neck band or collar. Now double the back of the shirt and iron it on both sides; spread the shirt out and iron all the front except the bosom. Now comes the bosom. If the ironing board is covered with woolen it will not stick to it. Lay on a thin cloth the first time the iron is passed over it ; remove it, rub it with a damp cloth, and iron until the finish is satisfactory. A smooth, round=edged iron should be used to gloss it. Then hang up to dry well, fold neatly, and put away. To iron a collar or cuff place it evenly on the table with the wrong side up, iron it lightly, turn it over and iron the other side, lightly first, more heavily next, and then very heavily and smoothly, polishing it well at last. Then curl up and put aside to get firm and dry. Flat'iro7is which are rough or rusty can be cleaned by putting a little salt on a piece of brown paper and rubbing the hot iron in it; 864 THE LAUNDRY then rub the bottom of the iron with a little piece of beeswax tied in a piece of muslin and it will make it smooth. It is a good idea to rub each iron, before putting it back on the stove, on brickdust, sandpaper or salt, so that no starch may remain to be burnt on. Flat=iron holders should not be any thicker than necessary to protect the hand, as it is tiresome reaching around one too thick. It is a good idea to keep 3 or 4 on hand; a piece of leather from an old boot top inserted in the holder protects the hand well from the heat. Take irons from the stove and put them away as soon as the ironing is done; they are injured by being left on the stove. Always wipe irons thoroughly on taking them from the stove. Enamels for Shirt Bosoms. — There are many "enamels" in use and each laundress can make for herself the one she likes best. We give a few. ( 1 ) Take 2 parts spermaceti and 1 part white wax ; heat moderately until they are melted together. To use, add a piece of this mixture (enamel), the size of a walnut, to each quart of starch. (2) Put in a cup and melt slowly ^ oz. white wax, ^ oz. spermaceti, 2 oz. hard stearine, and 2^ oz. paraffine; then let it cool. Rub it over the article just before ironing. (3) Mix 8 oz. paraffine, ^ oz. kerosene, ^ oz. glycerine. Any of the foregoing enamels will pro- duce good results. SCORCHES, TO REMOVE.— (1) For linen, take the juice of 2 onions, 2 oz. fuller's earth, ^ oz. of white soap, ^ pint of vinegar; boil all together, and, when cold, spread on the spot; let dry, and then wash. (2) For white goods, dip linen clothes in chlorine water, and rub well on. For cotton .goods re=dye if possible, or on woolen raise a fresh surface. On silks, all efPorts are nearly useless. (3) For linen, mix the juice of 2 onions and ^ oz. of white soap, and spread it on. See also " Spots and Stains." Yelloived clothes can be whitened by soaking them in buttermilk; then wash them with soap in lukewarm water, rinse in cold water, and dry them. Repeat if necessary. Soak coarse articles longer than fine ones, and for very fine articles do not have the buttermilk too sour, A USEFUL HINT. — Always moisten with the tongue, on the wrong side, the button holes of starched collars, cufPs and shirts, just before attempting to button them, or put in cuff buttons. That will soften the starch slightly so that they will button easily, and the button holes will never tear out. Try it once, and you will always do it afterwards. WASHING FLANNELS — The great difficulty in washing flan- nels, blankets, and all woolen goods is caused by the nature of the material. The fibers of the wool contain numberless little hooks, which, with rubbing and change of temperature become knotted to- gether, causing a shrinkage and thickening of the fabric. There are 3 things to avoid in washing flannels. ( 1 ) Do not change the tem- perature of the water used from beginning to end, as it hardens the goods to take them from hot to cold water. (2) Never rub flannels THE LAUNDRY 865 as linen articles are rubbed as that causes the fabric to knot to- gether. Sop the articles up and down in the water and pull through the hands, and after each water squeeze as dry as possible with the hands, as the wringer may tend to make them harsh. (3) Never rub soap on flannels. Make a suds of lukewarm water (do not have the water so hot but what the hand can be held in it comfortably), and add 1 tablespoon of borax for each pail of water, as there is nothing better for flannels (at least for white ones) than borax. After wash- ing, rinsing, and wringing as above directed, shake and pull the flannel into its original shape and hang it out to dry, in a current of air if possible. All flannel goods should dry as quickly as possible; if the weather is cloudy or gloomy it is better to dry them indoors. Take them in before they are quite dry, pull, fold them as evenly as possi- ble, roll up tightly in a clean towel or cloth, and leave a short time. If left too long they will shrink, so that it is better to iron them the same day if possible Iron them until they are quite dry, with irons which are not very hot. Flannels and blankets treated thus will remain soft and white until they are worn out. It is not best to use bluing in the rinsing water for flannels. Never wash colored flannels with white ones. If the water is not too dirty they can be washed in the same suds after the white ones; otherwise prepare a separate suds for them. Never boil flan- nels. If the dye is inferior and the color runs, dissolve a handful of salt in the first water used. Shi- inking Flannel. — Flannels can be shrunk before being made up, by soaking them first in cold and then in hot water. WASHING INFANT'S CLOTHING— This should never be made too stiff, as infants are often caused much suffering by carelessness in this regard. The skirts of robes and long petticoats may be more stiff than the bodices, as it helps them to hold their freshness longer, but the bodices themselves should, at the most, be wrung only out of water starch, and the bibs which come directly under the chin must have none at all. Trimmings of little skirts which should be of the softest lace must never be starched; they look pretty starched, of course, but beauty should be sacrificed to the little wearer's comfort. Flannels unless carefully handled soon become shrunken and discol- ored. When laid aside, if wet, they should be plunged at once into a tub of cold soft water, without soap or soda, and left to soak a few minutes, then wrung out and dried gradually ; or they can be sent to the laundry where, after this preliminary soaking they can be treated as ordinary flannel. WASHING STOCKINGS.— (1) Wash black stockings in strong salt water; then dry them and wash again in another brine, finishing in clear water. If properly done the dye will not rub off. (2) Be- fore being worn soak black stockings, both cotton and woolen, in cold water over night; the next day wash in 2 tepid waters, making a lather with soap before putting in the stockings, and adding 1 table- spoon of ox'gall to the first water, then rinse, in lukewarm water 55 866 THE LAUNDKY first, until the dye ceases to come out; then stretch them and dry in the shade as fast as possible. After once washing in ox^gall, borax will answer for future washings; use little soap. Do not leave the stockings long in any water. (3) Wash colored stockings in a lather in which a little alum is dissolved; do not rub soap on them, put them through 2 waters, and rinse in 2 more. A little vinegar or salt in the rinsing water will help to fasten and brighten the colors. Turn striped stockings inside out to dry, which will keep the color from running on the right side. (4) Wash black thread stockings in ox=gall; then rinse in vinegar and water. CLEANING SILKS — Wash silk, or anything containing silk, in cool water; it is turned yellow by boiling water. Never let soap touch it, but a suds prepared with good soap can be used, Iron it between folds of linen; but do not let the irons touch the silk. Do not have the irons too hot. It turns dark if ironed wet, or even if very damp. Pongee silk can be washed in a warm suds of soap; rinse well, and pass through a wringer, but do not twist or wring with the hands. Iron when quite dry with a quite hot iron, laying it between 2 damp pieces of muslin. Never boil or scald it. The reason it turns dark, as ordinarily washed, is because it is ironed wet; the hot iron turns the water to steam, and that scalds and darkens it. A silk which has changed color in washing can be partly restored by washing again as above directed. If a silk comes from the laundress covered with dark spots, it is because it was allowed to dry and then sprinkled, and the sprinkling shows; to remedy this, put it in water, dry it, and iron it when quite dry. Black silk if not very dirty can be freshened by sponging it with weak borax or alcohol; if very dirty sponge with a decoction of soap bark and M^ater; then hang out to dry. Iron it, when dry, be- tween 2 pieces of. damp muslin. It can also be sponged with cold, strong tea, in which a little hartshorn has been put. Black silk is renovated by using a weak solution of coffee water. This is the French process. Do not wet the silk too much, and rub afterwards with a soft handerchief to restore the luster. White or light colored silks of any kind can be cleaned (1) by rubbing them with slightly moistened cornmeal; lay the silk flat on a clean blanket, and treat both sides. (2) Rub with a dry powder composed of fine starch and a little laundry blue; then dust thor- oughly. (3) Pink or cream colored silks can be cleaned by rubbing them with bread crumbs or chalk. Old silks of any color can be cleaned with alcohol; on 1 table- spoon of whisky or gin pour 2 cups boiling water; when cool sponge the silk with it. To Renovcde Silk. — Potato water is good to clean all kinds. Grate the potatoes into cold spring water, say a large potato to each quart of water; 5 or 6 will do for a couple of dresses. If for very light silk, pare the potatoes; if for dark, merely wash them clean. The pan of water must not be stirred in the least for 48 hours; then, very THE LAUNDKY 867 steadily and slowly, pour ofp the clear liquor (but not a particle of the sediment) into a large open vessel; dip the pieces of silk into this liquid up and down a few times, without creasing them; then wipe them on a flat table, with a clean towel, first one side, then the other. It is well to hang each one, after dipping it, on a line, to allow the drops to drain off a little before wiping. Have a damp cloth to cover them with till all are donej then iron one way on the soiled side. Potato Wateb. — This is excellent for cleaning cotton or woolen goods as well as silk. It can be made a little stronger than the above (use, say, 2 potatoes to 1 pipt water) and bottled for use at any time. The coarse pulp left after pouring off the clear liquid is excellent for cleaning carpets, curtains and other thick goods. Few people understand the value of potato water; it is one of the best things there is for light colored dresses, and no starching is necessary when it is used, because potatoes contain so much starch. Silk handkerchiefs should be first soaked 10 minutes or more in cold salt and water; then wash in the same water; iron, when nearly dry, between folds of muslin. They can be washed in a cool soap lather also, but never rub soap on them. The reason white silk handkerchiefs turn yellow when washed is because they are boiled, or ironed wet. If soda has been spilled on black silk an application of acetic acid will usually restore the color. To Remove the Shine from Black Silk or Fine Black Diagonal. — Spread the article on a table or hard surface and rub the shiny place with a sponge wet with good cider vinegar until the shine dis- appears; then hang it up till dry in a shady place, and it will look nearly equal to new. To Wash Silk Underclothing. — Add 1 tablespoon of liquid ammoniato each gallon of warm soft water; put in the silk garments and let soak ^ to ^ hour; then wash them with the hands, rubbing soap only on those places which are soiled most (never resort to washboard rubbing) ; then rinse in lukewarm water, then in another, wring out thoroughly, and hang out to dry. Take them in before they are quite dry, fold, let lie a few hours only, and iron (the same day if possible). Cover the silk with a piece of cloth and iron over that, not using a very hot iron and never letting it touch the silk. Chamois skin underclothes are now sometimes worn, but we ex- plain elsewhere about washing them. SATIN. — This can be cleaned (1) with benzine if greasy, or with borax water or alcohol. Always sponge it lengthwise — never across the width. It will not be injured by having the iron come in contact with it, but press it on the wrong side. (2) Mix 2 parts white honey, 1 part white soap, and 4 parts whisky; spread the satin on a clean marble slab, bring the mixture to the boiling point, and apply it while hot with a soft brush. Rinse with cold water till it runs off clear; do not wring, but put it between 2 linen cloths till nearly dry; while damp, iron with a hot iron. It will look like new. 868 THE LAUNDRY LINEN. — Grrey or buflf linens may be prevented from spoiling by stirring 1 tablespoon of black pepper into the first water in which they are washed. To restore linen (1) apply a large handful of refined borax which has been diluted with 2 gallons of boiling water, and it will become a beautiful white. (2) If linen has turned yellow take 1 gallon of milk, put in 1 lb. white soap, shaved fine, dissolve it over the fire, and then put in the linen, and boil ^ hour; take it out, wash it in a lather of soap and water, and rinse it through 2 cold waters, with a very little blue in the last. Wine stains can be removed from linen by holding them in nlilk which is boiling on the fire; many other stains can be removed the same way. To remove mildew from linen, rub on soap, scrape chalk on thickly, and lay in the sun; repeat till the spots disappear. TO WASH WOOLEN GOODS.— Careful experiment has estab- lished the following points: (1) The liquid used for washing should be as hot as possible. (2) For removing greasy dirt, sweat, etc., borax is useless. The best thing is soap lye and ammonia mixed. This dissolves the dirt, raises and revives the colors, and is most ex- cellent. (3) For white woolens, nothing else approaches borax. Soap lye and borax, applied boiling hot, give white woolens a beauti- ful looseness and dazzling whiteness. (4) To avoid shrinkage, press the woolens repeatedly between soft cloths to hasten the drying. They are best dried in a current of air, and in cold weather in a warm place not too near the stove. Never dry them in the sun, as they then become dry and hard. For colored woolens put on the stove 7 quarts soft water and add 2 oz. best soft soap (the strength may be adapted to the dirtiness of the goods); when hot, and properly dissolved and stirred, divide into 2 vessels; to 1 add 1 teaspoon of ammonia to each quart of the solu- tion, and while it is very hot put in the woolens; stir and press them with smooth wooden stirrers, as the hand cannot bear the heat; then transfer to the other vessel, to which no ammonia is added, which will be partly cooled, and here press the goods with the hands, but do not wring or twist them; then remove, and press them between 3 or 4 soft dry towels, until these no longer become wet; then dry quickly in a current of air, but not in the sun. For white woolens proceed as above, but instead of the ammonia add 1 teaspoon of powdered borax to each quart of the mixture. If the second half of the solution is made too soapy, it may be diluted with a little hot water. If the washing is large, after thus washing 2 or 3 lots of woolens, heat the second half of the mixture again, add borax or ammonia, and use it to put the goods in first, preparing a fresh solution to serve as the second to which the goods are transferred; that which was before used as the first solution can be put away to settle. If you wash woolen goods thus you will be charmed with the results. The method is the result of much experiment. THE LAUNDKY 869 To Clean A Woolen Hood. — (1) Use gasoline; dip in the hood and squeeze (but do not wring) until the gasoline looks dirty; then dip it two or three times in clean gasoline, rub it between the hands, and when clean squeeze as dry as possible; then hang on the line, or shake till dry. As gasoline is very explosive never use it near a fire or lamp. (2) Rub it well between the hands with dry flour or corn- meal, shake well in the open air, and it will look like new. To Clean White Woolen Shawls oi' Soiled Lace. — Put them in a steamer, over a kettle of strong soapsuds, and steam them in that way. Dry Cleaning of Flannel and Woolen. — Rub it well with dry cornmeal and it will look fresh and clean; white and light colored goods may be cleaned in this way. Zephyy^ Shawls and other goods can be cleaned as above with either cornmeal or dry flour. WASHING LACE — Stitch a piece of muslin firmly around a bottle or piece of wood; baste the lace to this, winding it around the bottle, and cover with thin muslin; then let it soak for a time in melted soap and water, and then pour the water over it several times; if very dirty it may be steamed at the side of the fire, then rinse it well, blue, dip in the water in which a little rice has been boiled, and leave to dry. When unwound from the bottle it has only to be picked over a little, and either pressed between the covers of a book or ironed with a very cool iron on the wrong side. Colored Silk Lace. — This should be first soaked for an hour in cold soft water, containing a teaspoon of salt to the pint of water; then wash it in a cool lather made of soft water and good soap, like curd or white Windsor (if you have no soft water add borax to the lather), squeeze the lace through this several times until clean, and leave it in for a time; then rinse it in clear water containing salt as at first, but no soap. If you wish to stiffen it, rinse it in a weak gum water or sugar water. Squeeze it as dry as possible, and iron it on the wrong side between folds of clean cloth. Lace Curtains. — These should have the dust shaken from them, and then put them into lukewarm soft water in which good white soap has been dissolved. Wash gently with the hands, changing the water until it is no longer clouded with dirt; rinse them, pass through the bluing water, and put through a wringer or squeeze them dry; but do not wring by twisting with the hands. Before washing them measure the length and width of the curtains and as soon as they are starched (use boiled starch, und have it blued a little) pin them to clean sheets fastened to the carpet in some unused room, stretching them to the exact size they were before being wet. Do not iron them, but dry as quickly as possible. Conduct the whole process quickly, as lace shrinks on being wet a long time. Or they can be pinned to sheets stretched on quilting frames', set the same as for quilting, on four chairs set in the hot sun. Some sew up their curtains be- tween sheets, and boil them till clean, then rinse, blue, starch, and dry as above directed, 870 THE LAUNDKY Many professional cleaners boil lace curtains until clean, in acids and other strong chemicals. They look beautiful when sent home, but their' texture is ruined and they soon wear out, so that it is better when practicable to wash them at home. To Wash Ecru Lace Curtains. — Put 5 drops ox^gall in 4 gal- lons warm soft water; soak the curtains in this \ hour, and then draw them through the hands a few times so that all parts will receive the same friction; rinse in another water prepared the same way, and run them through a wringer. Dry them pinned to sheets fastened to the carpet as directed above. When dry, fold them down the center, then again several times, and put them for two days under a weight. They will look like new. Thread and Valenciennes Lace. — This can be washed by let- ting it soak well in soft water in which castile soap is dissolved; sop it around in it occasionally. When well washed, pass it through the bluing water, containing a little gum arable to stiffen it. Squeeze lightly with the hand, but do not twist it, and pin it on a stiff cloth, with a pin in each loop, and dry it in the sun. Do not iron it. Valenciennes can be tinted by rinsing it in weak coffee instead of clear water; have a little gum arable in it to stiffen. Saffron water can be prepared by pouring boiling water on saffron; by regulating its strength laces can be dipped in it and tinted any shade from deep yellow to pale cream. To Wash Black Lace. — Mix bullock's gall with' sufficient hot water to make it as hot as you can bear your hand in it, and pass the lace through it; it must be squeezed, not rubbed. Rinse through 2 cold waters, tinging the last with a little blue. After dry- ing, put it into some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a very small piece of glue; squeeze out, stretch and clap it. After- wards, pin out on a linen cloth to dry, laying it very straight and even, and taking care to open and pin the edge very nicely. When dry, iron, on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the iron- ing board. To Starch Lace. — Use a very thin boiled starch, or the liquor in which rice has been boiled. Dip the lace in the starch and squeeze out. Clap between the folds of a towel to partially dry it. It is always ironed on the wrong side. Lay it on the table, wrong side up, and slightly picked out, and place a piece of muslin over it. Rub a cool iron over it several times until a little dry. Take it up, and with the fingers pick it out to show the pattern and the edge; iron again, pick out once more, carefully draw to. each side and give a final ironing. The iron must be very cool, or the lace will be very stiff; moving it about in the hands and drawing it out tends to make it flexible. To Tint Curtains or Laces. — Put no bluing in the starch, but for ecru mix the starch with water tinted with coffee; for a yellow tint use saffron, and for a pink tint use a decoction of logwood. To Revive Black Lace. — (1) Make some black tea about the strength usual for drinking, and strain it clear from all leaves. Put the lace in a basin, pour on sufficient tea to cover it, and let it stand THE LAUNDRY 871 10 or 12 hours; then squeeze it several times, but do not rub it; dip it frequently into the tea, which will at length assume a dirty appear- ance. Have ready some weak gum water, and press the lace gently through it; then clap it for ^ hour; then pin it upon a towel in any shape you wish it to take. When nearly dry, cover it with another towel and iron it with a cool iron. The lace will now look as good as new, if it was merely discolored but sound. ( 2 ) Wash the lace thor- oughly in some good beer; use no gum water, then clap the lace, and dry and iron as in the previous recipe To Clean and Renovate Blade and Colored Veils. — (1) Use whisky, then stiffen with gum arable water, clap between the hands, and lastly iron between 2 moist linen cloths. (2) For black veils take 1 pint warm water, add a little ox=gall, and dip the veils into it; rinse them in cold water. Then make a weak size by pouring some boiling water onto a small piece of glue. Into this hot size dip the veils; draw them out quickly, clap them, and stretch them on frames, or pin them to dry. To Clean Black Lace. — Proceed as explained for cleaning black veils. Brussels lace should be kept away from perfumes, and from the air. TO WASH GINGHAMS, PRINTS AND SATEENS.— To wash ginghams, prints and sateens (but not light cambrics) proceed as follows: Use no soap, but for 2 dresses mix 1 cup flour in 2 cups cold water; then add 3^ quarts boiling watei' and it will make 1 gallon of flour starch. Into a tub containing 4 gallons of warm water put 2 quarts of this starch; then put in 1 of the dresses and wash it, rubbing it just as if soap was used; then rinse it through 2 clean waters, wring out and hang out to dry. The cloth will be cleaned by the starch, and will retain enough of it to be stiffened sufficiently. Then wash the other dress the same way. Dry colored goods thoroughly, and only dampen them a few hours before they are ironed. Iron them on the wrong side. Put ^ cup of salt in the last rinsing water if the colors run. If the color is blue and faded, adding to the last rinsing water 4 tablespoons of vinegar or 2 of acetic acid, will sometimes restore it; but as the chemicals used in the dying are not always the same, it will not always work. Do not let the fabrics lie in the water but wash them out quickly. A piece of alum the size of a walnut added to each pint of starch is some- times used to preserve the colors of ginghams and calicoes; they are also sometimes dipped in salt and water before being put into the washing water, to prevent their fading. TO CLEAN SATINS OR SARCINETS (1) Thoroughly mix 4 oz. of soft soap, 4 oz. of honey, the white of 1 egg, and a wineglass of gin. Scour with a stiff' brush, using the mixture; when clean, rinse with cold water. Do not wring the satin, but hang it up for a while, and iron it while still damp. (2) Scatter French chalk over them and brush it off with a hand brush once or twice. (3) Sponge on 872 THE LAUNDRY the right side with dilute spirits of wine, sponging with the nap, not asross it. Iron on the wrong side, while damp, placing muslin be- tween the fabric and the iron. Do not clean at home satin which is to be dyed. (4) Mix sifted stale bread crumbs and powder blue, and thoroughly rub it all over the satin; then shake well, and dust it with clean soft cloths. Then if there are many silver or gold flowers, rub them with a piece of crimson ingrain velvet, which will restore them to their original luster. TO CLEAN VELVET, VELVETEENS OR PLUSH.— If only slightly soiled free them from dust by brushing, and then sponge them with benzine, or a weak solution of borax and water. If much soiled, sop them up and down in benzine to which a little water is added; then brush over the back with a strong solution of gum ara- ble and water; this stiffens it and prevents the pile from loosening; let it dry slowly but thoroughly, and then brush the pile smartly until it stands up, and in the right direction. Thus treated, faded and greasy dress trimmings may be made to look like new. TO WASH COLORED MUSLINS — Use a lather of cold water and soap; if they are black, put in a little salt; if green, a little vine- gar, and if lilac, a small quantity of ammonia.. Do not use warm water even for rinsing them. CRAPE, TO RESTORE — Skimmed milk with water, with a little bit of glue in it, made scalding hot, is excellent to restore rusty Ital- ian crape. If clapped and pulled dry afterwards, like muslin, it will look as good as new. Or, brush the veil till all the dust is removed, then fold it lengthwise, and roll it smoothly and tightly on a roller; steam it till it is thoroughly dampened, and dry it on the roller. To Make Old Craj^e Look Nearly Equal to New. — Hold it in both hands, and pass it backwards and forwards several times through the steam coming from the spout of a violently boiling tea-kettle; it will make it look fresh and new. To restore black cra/pe when spotted by being wet, by the rain or otherwise, spread it out on the table with a piece of black silk under- neath the spots; then carefully paint over the stains with a soft camel's hair brush dipped in black ink; carefully wipe oflf the super- fluous ink with a piece of black silk; when dry the stains will be gone. Crapes, bombazines and mourning goods can be freed from stains by using a solution made by boiling a handful of fig leaves in 2 quarts of water until it is reduced to one pint. BLACK CASHMERE — This can be washed in borax water; rub it with the hands merely, not on a board. Press out the water, but do not twist or wring it; or fold it evenly and pass it through a wringer; then hang out to dry. Press it out when dry. BLACK GRENADINE — This can be renovated by using cold, strong coffee, strained clear; wring it out tightly, shake well, and fold; to iron, put some black material under it and use a moderately hot iron. THE LAUNDRY 873 NANKEEN. — (1) Wash nankeen garments with moderately hot soap= water; then boil them, rinse, but do not wring them out, and hang up to dry, inside out, in a shady place. (2) Let 1 oz. of green tea steep in the necessary amount of water 8 or 10 minutes; then, while hot, pour the decoction through clean linen cloth onto the nankeen article; let it stand till cold, take out, but do not wring out, and dry it in the shade. WASHING CHINTZ.— Wash it in a suds of the best soft soap, containing a pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon of vinegar to the quart; rinse quickly in water containing a little salt and 1^ tablespoons of vinegar to the quart. To Clean Glazed Chintz Curtains. — Shake off the loose dust, then lightly brush with a small, long-haired furniture brush; then wipe it closely with clean flannels, and rub it with dry bread. If properly done they will look nearly as well as at first, and if the color be not light they will not require washing for years; fold in large parcels and put carefully away. While up they should be preserved from the sun and air as' much as possible — these injure delicate col- ors; the dust may be blown off with bellows, Curtains may thus be kept sufficiently clean to make up again with new linings. TO CLEAN CHENILLE PORTIERES OR CURTAINS.— These are generally sent to a cleaning establishment, but to clean at home get 5 or 6 gallons of gasoline (worth about 15 cents a gallon) cover the curtain with the gasoline in a washing machine, if you have one, and wash about 10 minutes; if not, put in an ordinary tub and sop the curtain up and down in it till well cleaned; then squeeze dry, shake well to get out the wrinkles, and hang in the shade to dry. Gasoline is vcru inflammable, and must not be used near a fire. A good place to use it is in the yard on a clear day. The gasoline can be allowed to stand and settle; then pour off the clear part and keep tightly bot- tled for further use. It will not injure the most delicate colors, and can be used to clean gloves, white shoes or silk. The curtains can also be cleaned by using equal parts of boiling water and benzine in- stead of the pure gasoline, if more convenient. FADED HANGINGS, TO RESTORE — Beat out the dust and brush them; make a strong lather with castile soap, and apply with a hard brush ; then with clean water wash off the lather, and then wash them over with alum water; let dry, and the colors will usually be restored. GOLD AND SILVER EMBROIDERY AND FANCY WORK. — This should not be cleaned with alkaline and acid -solutions, as is so often done — it frequently destroys their beauty. Use instead, spirits of wine, either alone or diluted |- with water. BED-TICKS, TO CLEAN — Apply poland starch by rubbing it on thick with a cloth; place it in the sun; when dry, rub it if neces- sary. The soiled part will be clean as new. 874 THE LAUNDRY COAT COLLARS. — These, when greasy, may be cleaned by satu- rating them with benzine, and leaving it on until the grease is out; then wash off with soap and water, or ammonia and water. Gasoline and turpentine also cut the grease readily. Another way is to apply ammonia with a sponge, and then rub well with a dry cloth; repeat the operation until the collar is clean. See also the cleaning com- pounds given elsewhere. BLEACHING.— (1) Dissolve 1 lb. of chloride of lime and 1 table- spoon of sal soda in soft water, put in 30 yards of cotton cloth, leave ^ hour, then take out and rinse thoroughly in soft water, as the solu- tion will rot it if not all removed. (2) In one quart of soft water dis- solve \ lb. chloride of lime, bottle, and cork closely. To use, dilute what is needed with an equal quantity of water; it will remove stains from table linen which resists milder treatment. (3) Into 4 quarts of boiling water put 6 cents worth of oxalic acid; pour it over the clothes, stirring them up well, and leave till the water is cold; then spread out to bleach on the grass, and they will soon whiten. Use oxalic acid carefully as it is very poisonous. (4) Chloride of lime acts with difficulty on animal substances, so that for woolen or mixed goods, after washing and while still wet, put them into a solu- tion of hyposulphite of soda, and let them soak several hours; then take them out and put them into a solution of tartaric acid, which should be ready prepared; keep the vessel well covered, as the action of the acid on the hyposulphite develops sulphurous acid, which bleaches the articles. Then wash in water containing ammonia, which increases their whiteness. SETTING COLORS — Most colored fabrics are improved by soak- ing them for some time defore being washed in a solution of 1 table- spoon of ox=gall to each gallon of soft water. Ox=gall sets any color in cotton, woolen or silk. French linens can have the colors preserved by putting them in a strong clean tea of common hay. Calicoes with blue or pink colors can have the colors set by put- ting soda in the rinsing water. Vinegar can be used the same way for pink or green. Salt is good for all colors but blue, but it injures that. A little saltpetre in a pail of water will set the color in blue cambric. Soaking calicoes, cambrics or muslins for two hours in a solution of 1 oz. of sugar of lead to the pail of water is good for all colors but blue. Alum ivater is used for setting greens and blues. Black goods can have the color improved by putting them into a solution of 1 teacup of lye to a pail of water. Dark hosiery, cambrics, etc., can have the colors set by soaking them two hours in a pail of water containing 1 tablespoon of black pepper. Scarlet napkins, red table cloths, and red bordered towels, can have the colors set by putting borax in the water in which they are wash- ed. Putting colored napkins in a weak lye before washing them sets the colors. MEDICAL HINTS. IMPLE remedies for accidents and common diseases are most suitable for use in ordinary families, and simple things are often the best. The following list of simple and ejffectual remedies which are well adapted for home use will be found of great value in any family, and will save our readers many doctor's bills as well as much pain and suffering often, and possibly may even save a life. TO TAKE A PILL. — Drop it under the tongue and take a swal- low of water at once. Disagreeable pills can be taken in this way without tasting them. A well corked bottle is better than a box to keep pills in. Powders can be best taken mixed in jam, syrup, honey or milk. TO REMOVE THE TASTE OF NAUSEOUS MEDICINES FROM THE MOUTH. — Chew a piece of bread and then spit it out. ACIDITY OF THE STOMACH.-?-Lime= water taken after each meal in doses of 1 to 2 oz. is excellent. Or (2) take one teaspoon of calcined magnesia in a wineglass of water. Or (3) eating a small quantity of dry rice will often correct it. (4) Relief will generally result from taking 10 grains of burnt carbonate of magnesia, 1 grain of powdered rhubarb and 1 grain of ginger in a little warm water 2 or 3 times a day. ASTHMA. — Dissolve in water all the saltpetre it will hold; dip blotting paper in this solution, and roll strips of it in the form of cones or cigars, When dry, burn them, letting the patient inhale the fumes. It often affords quick relief. Or (2) smoking the leaves of thorn=apple or jimpson weed, at the commencement of the attack, acts like magic with many people. BITES OF SNAKES — Check the circulation of the blood by ty- ing a handkerchief, rope or something else, around the limb between ths wound and the heart. At the same time suck the wound as hard as possible to draw out the poison, spitting out the blood at once. Also give whiskey, brandy or other liquor, a gill at a time, until in- toxication occurs. It is surprising how much liquor will be needed, but persevere until intoxication results. This is one of the few things that whiskey is good for. BLISTERS — Keep them from breaking if possible. To punc- ture them and draw off the fluid inside is a mistake. Bathe them in warm water, and cover with court plaster, or if very severe apply salve and then bind on a soft rag. BOILS. — Bind on a slice of ripe tomato; change frequently and burn the old slices. It affords speedy relief, is cool, soothing and 875 876 MEDICAL HINTS hastens the cure. (2) The skin peeled off of a boiled egg, moist- ened and applied, will draw off the matter in a few hours. If the tips of the fingers are wet with spirits of camphor or tincture of arnica and gently rubbed on the surface every 8 or 4 hours, followed later by olive oil, it will prevent a boil from coming to a head. BLACK EYE. — Apply at once whiskey, brandy or spirits of wine. Never apply cold water, except a little at first, but apply a cloth wrung out of hot water — as hot as it can be borne. BRUISES. — Treat first same as directed above for "Black Eye." Later rub with hamamelis, or apply lard or butter. BUNIONS. — These are caused by ilhfitting shoes. To cure them, first get shoes which fit properly. If they are much irritated apply warm fomentations and bathe with arnica. If, on their first appearance, the shoes are attended to and oxide of sulphur oint- ment is applied to the bunion each night, they are easily checked and prevented from becoming serious. BURNS AND SCALDS. — For slight burns apply a paste made by mixing common baking soda with a little water; then dust on dry so- da and bind on a light bandage. It affords almost immediate relief and stops the pain. Borax may* be used instead, if more convenient. Burns by alkalies, like caustic potash, strong ammonia, soda, etc., should first have a dilute acid applied, like vinegar or lemon juice. The acid at once neutralizes the alkali; then treat the spot like any other burn. Burns from, acids, like muriatic acid,, oil of vitriol, etc., should have an alkali, like ammonia, soda or lime=water, applied at once to neutralize the acid. If these are not available, pouring on water dilutes the acid; or put on moist earth, which contains suf- ficient alkali to dilute the acid. Afterwards treat like other burns. CANKERED SORE MOUTH AND THROAT Pulverize burnt alum and add equal amounts of sulphur and sugar; keep in a wide- mouthed bottle. Put a little on the sore spots and let it dissolve slowly. For the throat put it on the back of the tongue. CATARRH OR COLD — A teaspoon of warm honey taken every 15 to 30 minutes affords great relief to colds and catarrh. A little can be kept in every house, and some taken at once on taking cold. (2) If, at the start, camphor is inhaled, or a little put on a lump of sugar and eaten, a cold can be broken up. (3) Inhaling aromatic spirits of ammonia will also often cure a catarrhal cold. CHAPS — The best preventive is perfect dryness, especially be- fore going into the open air. To produce dryness, after washing and wiping, rub on cornmeal or chalk; then warm. An excellent applica- tion for chaps is glycerine 1 oz.; chalk 2 oz.; milk 5 oz. ; mix and rub on. Vaseline or petroleum jelly is also good. CHILBLAINS — These are usually caused by abrupt transitions from cold to heat. Do not warm very cold feet at the fire at once, MEDICAL HINTS 877 but bathe them first in cold water. Wlien cliilblains appear rub them witli a lotion made of 1 oz. of iodine in 3 oz. rectified spirits of wine; apply with a brush not more than once a day. Apply tincture of myrrh in water to broken or ulcerated chilblains. Protect in- flamed chilblains from the friction of boots and shoes. CHOKING — (1) A marble or similar article in a child's throat may be dislodged by turning him heels upwards and shaking him. ( 2 ) Simple cases of choking are often relieved by merely striking on the back between the shoulders. (3) A hair=pin quickly straight- ened and bent at one end in the shape of a hook will sometimes serve to extract food, etc. (4) For a fish=bone or other substance in the throat at once insert a finger and press upon the root of the tongue so as to induce vomiting. If this fails let the patient swallow a piece of soft bread. Send for a physician at once. Repeatedly sucking lemons will help to dissolve a bone. CHOLERA INFANTUM — -A teaspoon of milk and lime-water may be given every 20 or 30 minutes. It should be given cold. Lime=water may be given alone if the stomach will not tolerate the milk. In grave cases a few drops of brandy may be added. CHOLERA MORBUS.— Give pulverized chalk in tablespoon doses. Apply to the stomach flannel cloths wrung out of hot water and sprinkled with turpentine, changing them as fast as they cool; or apply tincture of cayenne or other stimulating application. The remedy given elsewhere for "Diarrhea" (which see) is also excel- lent. COLD SORES. — These may often be prevented from developing by applying spirits of camphor on their first appearance. Cold cream (see page 885) is also a good application for them. COLIC — A teaspoon each of salt and finely pulverized black pep- per in a glass of cold water will almost always give relief. Then give a dose of rhubarb. Also applying hot cloths to the abdomen, and giving warm water injections are useful. CORNS — These are caused by the friction of ilbfitting shoes. Hard corns may be killed by binding on at night a piece of lemon, half a cranberry, or some cracker crumbs soaked in strong vinegar; leave on all night and pare off the corn in the morning. Apply 2 or 3 times if needed. For soft corns trim off the thicker skin with scissors, apply car- bolized vaseline, and wear a little cotton batting between the toes, changing it often. COUGH MIXTURE — (1) Melt together equal amounts of hoar- hound and rock candy, add an equal amount of glycerine, and flavor it with lemon extract. Take one teaspoonful at a time, as often as de- sired. Or (2) take juice of 2 lemons, 1 oz. honey, 1 oz. cod liver oil; mix thoroughly and after every fit of coughing take 1 teaspoon. Or (3) take 2 cups sugar, 1 cup vinegar, |^ cup honey, 1 cup boiling water; boil ^ hour; then add 5 cents worth of paregoric. 878 MEDICAL HINTS CRAMP — Wind a band, like a cord or garter, about the affected part, and tie it tightly by giving a sharp pull on the ends; it will hurt a little, but the cramp will disappear. Active friction with the hand is also often effective. CROUP.— (1) Out an onion in two and put a little sugar on one half; it will dissolve almost immediately. Then scoop up a little of the sweetened juice in a teaspoon and give it to the child. It will give almost instant relief. Or (2) produce vomiting by giving one teaspoon of alum sweetened with two teaspoons of sugar, syrup or molasses. It gives immediate relief. Then saturate a cloth with turpentine and apply it to the thfoat and chest, covering it with a dry cloth. CUTS AND WOUNDS — The pain from common wounds may be quite speedily relieved by burning woolen cloth on a shovel of live coals and holding the injured part in the smoke for 15 or 20 minutes. The smoke from common brown sugar burned on coals in the same way is also good. These simple remedies often act like a charm, re- lieving the pain and hastening the cure. Then apjply carbolized vas- eline, or wrap it up in a cloth wet with dilute carbolic acid. DIARRHEA AND DYSENTERY — Take 1 oz. tincture of rhu- barb; I oz. spirits of camphor; ^ oz. of laudanum; ^ oz. peppermint; ^ oz, tincture of cayenne pepper; mix. Dose for an adult 15 to 3U drops in a little water after each passage, according to age and the violence of the attack. In case of active dysentery repeat the dose every 15 or 20 minutes until relief is obtained. Dose for ^ child 5 to 15 drops, according to its age. Probably the best and surest rem- edy known. DIPHTHERIA — Dissolve a tablespoon of flower of sulphur in a tumbler of water and gargle the throat with it frequently, swallow- ing a little each time. Snuff the mixture up the nose also if the patches extend there. If the patient cannot gargle, blow some flower of sulphur through a clay pipe into the throat. Slake a lump of lime in the room and get the patient to inhale the fumes; or burn pitch on hot coals on a shovel and inhale the smoke. It dissolves the membrane. Give nourishing food like beef tea thickened with a little rice, eggs beaten up in milk, sago or arrowroot mixed with port or sherry, etc. It is not a disease to trifle with, so get the best medi- cal advice attainable. DIPHTHERITIC SORE THROAT, CURE FOR.— Take a ripe pine-apple, squeeze out the juice and give it to the patient. It af- fords much relief. EARACHE — Pouring a few drops of laudanum into the ear (warm it by putting the bottle containing it into a vessel of hot water) and then covering it with cotton usually gives immediate relief. INSECT IN THE EAR — Pour in a little glycerine or sweet or olive oil, whichever is most convenient. This kills the insect, and it is easily removed later by a physician. MEDICAL HINTS 879 EMETICS — To take a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of powdered alum is a speedy emetic. Or from 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls of salt taken in a cup of hot water will usually cause vomiting. If a stronger emetic is needed, taking from 1 scruple to ^ a drachm of sulphate of 'zinc in 1 pint of warm water will rarely fail. FOR SORE AND INFLAMED EYES— (1) Take 2 grains sul- phate of zinc; 2 grains of hydrastis; 1 oz. rosewater; mix. Put 2 or 3 drops of this in the inflamed eye every few hours. Dilute it with a little rain water if too strong. Dilute it also for children. (2) For weak eyes take 8 grains sulphate of zinc; 10 drops tincture of opium; 2 oz. water. Mix and apply 3 or 4 times a day. For inflamed eyelids the white of an egg beaten to a froth, with 2 tablespoons of rosewater, is a good lotion. FOREIGN SUBSTANCES IN THE EYE (1) A spec of dirt will often be washed out by the flow of tears which follows; or put the eye into cold water and wink and roll the eyeball until the spec is washed out. (2) Lift out the upper eyelid with the fingers, draw it down over the lower lid and release it. Any substance adhering to the upper lid will thus be rubbed ofp by the lower one. (3) Put 1 or 2 grains of flaxseed into the eye and leave them several hours, or over night. It can be done without harm or pain. They will form a glutinous substance about any foreign body and it will then wash out. This plan is simple and usually effective. FAINTING — The simplest and most effective treatment is to at once lower the head and lift the body so that the head hangs down; the blood then rushes to the head and consciousness returns. FATIGUE. — Ladies who are tired from the labors of their house- work will find a marked relief if they will lie down for 5 or 10 minutes and spread over the face a cloth wrung out of hot water. It will brighten the eyes and smooth out the tired lines. FELON — Mix common rock salt and turpentine in equal parts, spread it on a cloth and bind it on the felon, renewing it as fast as it dries. In about 24 hours it will abort the felon. Or (2) make a salve by mixing good soft soap and cornmeal or flaxseed meal; put this on cloth and wrap it around the finger; renew it every 10 or 12 hours. If applied in time it will abort the felon; if not, it will bring it to a small head which is easily pricked. FROSTBITES — To prevent too sudden reaction the person should be kept away from the heat. Rub the affected part vigorous- ly with snow, and afterwards with cold water, until reaction occurs, and in a room without a fire. Later, lard, sweet oil, or oil and lime* water can be applied. Putting the parts affected in salt and water (cold) for 25 or 30 minutes is good for slight frostbites. If any sores follow treat them like burns. THE GRIPPE. — It is said that asafetida taken 4 times a day, and 16 grains at a dose, will check the grippe at once. It can be bought at drug stores in capsules, and is perfectly harmless. It is as much a specific for the grippe as quinine is for ague. 880 MEDICAL HINTS GUMBOIL. — Apply a roasted fig to the inflamed gum, as hot as it can be endured. Lance it as soon as matter is evident. HAY FEVER. — Take of carbolic acid 2^ drachms; ammonia water 3 drachms; distilled water 5 drachms; alcohol 7^ drachms; put all into a wide^mouthed 4 oz. vial; keep tightly closed when not in use. To use it inhale the fumes through the nostrils. It often works like a charm. HEARTBURN — Take 5 grains of aromatic powder and 12 grains of bismuth; mix, and give 3 times a day. It will almost al- ways give relief. Alkalies if given habitually will weaken the stomach. Those troubled with heartburn should drink sparingly at meals, avoid the use of fatty foods, pastry and the too exclusive use of vegetables. Everything rich and indigestible should be avoided. HYSTERIA. — Loosen the clothes and admit an abundance of fresh air; then hold the mouth and nose closed and so stop the breath- ing for a short time. On releasing the hold a long breath is at once drawn which usually results in relaxing the spasm and ending the fit. FRUIT LAXATIVE. — Chop fine ^ lb. of the best prunes, and ^ lb. figs; then add ^ oz. pure senna and molasses enough to make a thick paste; simmer on the stove about 20 minutes. Keep it in a cool place. A piece of this paste about the size of a hickory=nut makes an excellent laxative. Repeat in about 4 hours if necessary. HEADACHE. — For nervous headaches and neuralgia the fol- lowing is an excellent remedy. Take a wide-mouthed glass stop- pered bottle, half fill it with soft sponge, and on this pour 3 drachms of a solution of bisulphide of carbon. Keep tightly closed. To use it remove the stopper and press the mouth of the bottle over the seat of the pain for 5 minutes. Press tightly against the skin so that none of the vapor can escape. After 1 or 2 minutes tingling is felt which in 3 or 4 minutes becomes rather severe, but it subsides at once when the bottle is removed. Any redness of the skin soon dis- appears. HICCOUGH — Moisten either granulated or brown sugar with vinegar and eat it. For infants give but little at a time; or a little milk and water is usually sufficient for them. Speedy relief follows. HOARSENESS. — (1) Beat up 2 fresh eggs, thicken them with sugar, add a little lemon juice or vinegar, and eat a little frequently; it will soon give relief. Or (2) infuse a little finely scraped horse- radish in a little water for 2 hours in a close vessel, and then add double its weight of sugar; take a tablespoonful at a dose and it will give speedy relief. HIVES.— Castor oil applied with the tips of the fingers to the pustules will give speedy relief to the itching. So will baking soda dissolved in warm soft water. Then take 1 cup molasses; 1 tablespoon of sulphur; 1 teaspoon cream of tartar; mix. Take 1 teaspoon each morning before breakfast until relieved. MEDICAL HINTS 881 ITCH — Dissolve ^ oz. of glycerine and 1 drachm of carbolic acid in 8 oz. of pure water. Apply a few times and it will cure it. LINIMENTS — (1) Take 2 oz. olive oil and 1 oz. of solution of ammonia; mix. Useful for sore throats, bruises and sprains. (2) Thoroughly beat 1 egg, then add 1 teacup each of turpentine and good cider vinegar, put them in a bottle and shake very thor- oughly. Excellent for rheumatism, etc. A little put on a flannel, laid on where the pain is worst and covered with oiled silk will give almost instant relief. MEASLES. — An ordinary attack requires no other treatment than to keep the bowels open, use cooling drinks like lemonade, bar- ley water, etc., the daily use of the warm bath and confinement in a moderately warm {not exceedingly hot), well ventilated room. After the disease has subsided the patient should have easily digested food, be kept warmly clad, and not allowed to go out of doors too soon. If symptoms of bronchitis, pneumonia, etc., appear, a physi- cian should be summoned at once. SORE MOUTH. — One drachm of sulphite of soda to 1 oz. of water used as a gargle will soon check ulcerated or inflamed mouth. NURSING SORE MOUTH.— Gargle the mouth 3 or 4 times a day with a solution of borax, or a weak solution of carbolic acid. Also take a tonic like chloride of iron and quinine. NETTLE jRASH. — This comes usually from indigestible food. Jn an acute attack take an emetic to get rid of the offending sub- stance. This should be followed by a laxative (see " Fruit Laxa- tive") and a light diet, and the article which caused it should be avoided thereafter. A few grains of rhubarb, or of rhubarb and magnesia mixed, taken daily just before breakfast and dinner has often cured chronic cases of long standing. NEURALGIA. — The following remedy has often proved success- ful: Take 25 grains of bromide of potassium; 1 drachm of syrup of orange; 10 drops tincture of nux vomica; 1^ oz. water; mix and take 3 times a day. Take also a pill containing 2 grains of quinine with each draught. See also " Headache." NOSE, BLEEDING FROM.— (1) Put the feet in water as hot as can be borne. This will usually stop it. Or (2) roll up a piece of linen, saturate it with hamamelis or alum and stuff it up the nostril. (3) Chew something, shutting the jaws tightly together. (4) Apply cold water or ice to the back part of the neck, the forehead and root of the tongue. — Do not bend the head over the basin as that favors the bleeding, but receive the blood on a wet sponge or cloth. FOREIGN BODIES IN THE NOSE.— Have the child draw a de^p breath, then place one hand over his mouth and a finger against the empty nostril, and strike a sharp blow on his back, thus suddenly forcing the air from the lungs through his nose. It will usually force the substance out. 882 MEDICAL HINTS POISONS.— The first effort should usually be to rid the system of the poison, if possible, and then try to overcome its effects. Send for a physician at once, and in the meantime treat as follows: For acids, like carbolic acid, oxalic acid, salts of soi-rel, salt of lemon, acetic acid, etc., or for creosote, give an emetic (see "Emetics," page 879,) followed by chalk or whiting in water, or lime water, and white of egg. For alkalies, like ammonia, lime, pearlash, potash, smelling salts, etc., give water containing vinegar or lemon juice, then salad or sweet oil, milk, white of egg, gruel. For opium, laudanum, paregoric, morphine, and other prepara- tions of opium, or henbane, or belladonna, give an emetic, (see " Emetics," page 879), then strong coffee; keep awake with active motion. For arsenic, paris green, rough on rats, , etc., phosphorus, mcdches, saltpetre, tuiyentine, or furniture polish, give an emetic, (see " Emetics," page 879), then white of egg, flour and water, or milk. POISON DOGWOOD.— When the skin is poisoned by this, apply a weak solution of sugar of lead, or dilute citric acid. POISON IVY. — Wheii the skin is poisoned with ivy, apply a weak solution of carbolic acid, or sugar of lead. Dilute citric acid or sweet spirits of nitre applied freely are also good. Water as hot as it can be borne, applied freely as often as the itching returns, will afford relief. PRICKLY HEAT. — This occurs in hot countries, and in extreme- ly hot weather. The treatment is to open the bowels, eat temper- ately, dress lightly, and keep quiet during the heat. To relieve the itching, especially in children, bathe the skin with warm water con- taining a little common baking soda. PROUD FLESH. — Apply pulverized loaf sugar, or pulverized burnt alum. RETCHING. — Take ^ wineglass of pure lemon juice, just enough salt of tartar to destroy the acidity, and take 1 teaspoon frequently until the retching stops. RINGWORM — Apply 1 part carbolic acid in 2 parts water; leave on 30 or 40 seconds, and then wash it off with tepid water. This will cure it. SALT RHEUM. — An ointment of 15 to 30 grains of chryso- phanic acid to each ounce of cosmoline will often cure even obstinate cases. Apply it after a warm bath. SALVE — Take equal quantities of beeswax, fresh pure butter, white diachylon, elder=flower water, sweet oil, and pale brandy; melt all together in an earthen jar, and keep stirring until nearly cold. Keep it in a glass jar. Invaluable for sores of any kind. MEDICAL HINTS 883 SEA SICKNESS. — Of all the drugs proposed at various times for this distressing complaint, bromide, of sodium is the best. Take 10 grain doses 3 times a day for several days before going on to the water, and it will generally prevent an attack. SLEEPLESSNESS.— (1) Take a sharp walk for about 20 min- utes before retiring; or (2) just before retiring, sponge the surface of the body with very hot water; or (3) take a cold bath followed by vigorous friction; or (4) treat the feet and legs in either of these ways. These methods draw the blood to the extremities and away from the head, and so induce sleep. On waking up in the night, rise and smartly rub the body and extremities with the hands or a brush or towel, to thoroughly start the circulation, and afterwards one will often soon fall asleep. These plans are much better than using drugs. SNORING — This is caused by sleeping with the mouth open. If the nose is stopped up at night clear it out well, using snuff if neces- sary. A bandage around the lower jaw and over the head will serve to keep the mouth closed and render snoring impossible, Nurses by holding the lips of children together for a few minutes when they are falling asleep can prevent their forming the habit. SPRAINS. — First apply water, as hot as can be borne, for 15 or 20 minutes; then apply hot poultices of bran or oatmeal and vine- gar. Give the injured part perfect rest, and keep it in an elevated position. Rub it night and morning with kerosene and vaseline mixed, or with the second liniment given among our Liniments (which see). Later on, if not quite right, aj^ply a douche of cold salt water, continuing it till the part aches a little, and then rub it briskly with a towel to cause reaction. This will help it very much. SORE THROAT — Take 1 oz. each of borax, sugar, and chlorate of potash; dissolve them in 1 quart of water, and use it as a gargle. Excellent. Also, before going to bed, fold a towel in 2 or 3 folds, wet one end in water, lay it on the throat and wrap the balance of the towel around the neck and pin it securely. Leave it on all night. In the morning sponge off the neck with cold water and wipe it dry. A harmless and excellent remedy. SUBSTANCES SWALLOWED BY MISTAKE Make the pa- tient eat three good sized slices of bread, and swallow 4 tablespoons of flour and water made into a fairly thick mass; then give an emetic and the swallowed article will come up entangled in the tenaceous vomit. (For an emetic see " Emetics.") SUFFOCATION — Remove the patient at once to the fresh air, lay him on his back and loosen the clothing about his neck and chest. Dash cold water on the face and chest. Keep up the warmth of the body and apply mustard plasters over the heart and around the ankles. If these means fail, try artificial respiration as soon as possible. Suffocation from common gas, from ordinary coal or char- coal, or from gases in wells, sewers and cesspools, are all treated in 884 MEDICAL HINTS the same way. Before cntoving a suffocating atmosphere to rescue persons, tie a towel, soaked in vinegar and water over the mouth. SUNSTROKE — Remove the patient to a cool, shady place where he can get air. Then lay him down, remove the clothing and repeat- edly pour cold water over the head and chest and sponge the body with cool water, or apply towels wet in cold water, the object being to reduce the temperature. Tea and coffee may be given afterwards, and milk for food. Stimulants of brandy and ammonia are given by some physicians. Fanning is also beneficial. To prevent sunstroke the clothes should be 'light and loose, alcoholic liquors should be abstained from, and rest should be frequently taken when exposed to the sun. The head may be kej)t cool by having a wet cloth or sponge in the hat. Large draughts of ice water should not be taken. THRUSH. — A valuable remedy is to dissolve 1 teaspoon of chlo- rate of potash in a teacup of water; give 1 teaspoonful of this every 2 hours. WATER BRASH — Take ^ teaspoon of bicarbonate of potash in ^ wineglass of cold water. Obstinate cases are often strikingly ben- efitted by using buttermilk very freely. TOILET HINTS. ECAUSE many coarse and vulgar people have bedaubed and bedecked themselves with a revolting lack of taste, much contempt and contumely have been heaped upon the arts of the toilet. The desire to be beautiful, however, is natural and praiseworthy, and it is perfectly proper to conceal or remedy many defects in the face and form. The following hints give simple and harmless remedies for many common blemishes which it will be convenient and useful to know. BLACK HEADS.— These are not animals, but merely the greasy matter secreted by the glands of the skin. The best treatment is to soften them by applying a little glycerine and then squeeze them out by pressing any flat, blunt instrument against the skin, and mov- ing it along slowly. Any redness thus caused may be overcome by applying equal parts of glycerine and prepared chalk. Bathing the parts affected with ammonia is a good preventive. COLD CREAM. — The best formula for cold cream is as follows: — Take of pure white wax 1 oz.; spermaceti 2 oz. ; almond oil ^ pint. Mix these together in a glazed earthenware dish over a gentle heat, stirring, while melting, with a silver or glass spoon. When melted add 3 oz. glycerine and 10 drops attar of roses. Then strain through muslin, and, as it cools, stir it to a snowy whiteness. The secret of making fine cold cream is to stir it and beat it well all the time it is cooling. FRECKLES — -When caused by the sun, touch them with nitre (saltpetre) moistened with water and applied with the finger; apply three times a day and they will soon disappear. Or (2) apply 5 or 6 times a day a strong solution of borax and rosewater. Or (3) apply a lotion made of equal parts of glycerine and lactic acid. MOTH PATCHES, MASK, MORPHEW AND HEPATIC SPOTS. — Mix 8 oz. rosewater and 30 grains of chlorate of potash; wash the face with it 2 or 3 times a day. Avoid rich and greasy food, take outdoor exercise, and keep the bowels regular. MOLES — For small moles apply the acid nitrate of mercury. For large ones electricity is best, but consult a physician. PROFUSE AND OFFENSIVE PERSPIRATION — Wash the troublesome parts under the arms, the feet, etc., with one part boracic acid in 20 parts of water. Also dust on the underclothes, over the affected parts, a preparation of boracic acid mixed with starch. PIMPLES — These usually indicate that the system is out of order, and should rather be treated by proper diet and remedies than 88.5 886 TOILET HINTS by local applications. If an application is desired, take 1 oz. sperm- aceti ointment, 2 drachms glycerine and 2 oz. bicarbonate of soda; mix and apply. SUNBURN. — Apply frequently a solution of equal parts of lime juice and olive oil. Rubbing the hands, face, etc., with almond oil, cold cream or vaseline before being exposed to the sun or wind will largely* prevent their unpleasant effect. TAN — This may be removed by applying glycerine and lemon juice mixed together. Or (2) take magnesia wet with clear water and worked to a thick paste and rub it on. WARTS. — Rubbing warts with a fresh slice of Irish potato, or with fresh lemon juice will often cure them in a short time. Or ( 2 ) apply strong carbolic acid carefully with a brush 3 or 4 times a day and they will disappear in 1 or 2 weeks. (3) A dose of sulphate of magnesia taken daily will cure warts in a short time often. DANDRUFF — Wash the head once a day with 1 oz. borax and 1 oz, glycerine in 1 pint of warm soft water. TO PROMOTE GROWTH OF HAIR Take the yolk of 1 egg, 1 pint of rain water and 1 oz. rosemary spirit. Mix thoroughly, use warm and rub well into the scalp with the fingers. Apply twice a week. It softens the scalp, removes dandruff, and makes the hair smooth and glossy. HAIR FALLING OUT — Wet the head occasionally with salt and water and it will check it. Or (2) dissolve 15 grains of bicarbonate of soda in 1 oz. water; rub it into the scalp daily, and persevere with it. (3) Rub pure grease in thoroughly every night or two. This often causes a new growth of hair, and it cures dandruff. BANDOLENE. — Dissolve 1 drachm of gum arable and 2 oz. borax in 1 quart hot water; then add 3 tablespoons of tincture of camphor. Apply on retiring and do the hair up in curl papers. OFFENSIVE BREATH — For immediate, temporary relief, gar- gle the mouth and throat with 1 part bromo-chloralum in 8 or 10 parts water. The principal causes are bad teeth, a disordered stomach and catarrh, and permanent relief must come by reaching the cause and curing it. The odor of onions is removed by taking a cup of strong coffee. Or eat parsley with vinegar. The odor of tobacco may be relieved by taking 1 teaspoon tinc- ture of myrrh, ^ teaspoon spirits of camphor, 1 pint of hot water and a little borax; mix, and use 2 tablespoons of this in ^ tumbler of water to wash the teeth. A TOOTH POWDER — Take 4 oz. powdered charcoal; 2 oz. powdered cuttle=fish bone; 1 oz. myrrh; 1 oz. orris root; mix, and use as needed. TARTAR ON THE TEETH — To remove the tartar which ac- cumulates at the back of the teeth brush it with a soft brush dipped TOILET HINTS 887 in fresh flower of sulphur. After a few applications the tartar will crumble away. FACE POWDERS — Finely powdered rice is as simple, harmless and good as any powder to use. Calcined magnesia is harmless, and so are chalk and cascarrilla except for their mechanical action in stopping the pores of the skin. Any powder when used should be washed off at night before retiring. Never apply any substance to the face containing any metallic powders or earthy substances. The great majority of the cosmetics so widely advertised are positively in- jurious and we unhesitatingly advise against their use. BURNET'S CELEBRATED POWDER. Take 5 cents worth each of finely pow^lered magnesia, bay rum, oil of lemon and berg- amot; put all in a pint bottle, fill with pure soft water, and shake well. Apply it with a soft cloth or sponge. LIP SALVE. — Melt together 1 oz. white wax, 1 oz. sweet oil, 1 drachm of spermaceti and throw in a piece of alkanet root to col- or it; while simmering, add a little oil of rose or lavender to perfume it. Then pour into small jars or boxes to cool. Apply when needed. ANTISEPTIC SOAP — Mix 88 parts of good soap with 12 parts of sulphate of copper. Useful for any one exposed to blood poison- ing from bruises or wounds. THE CHAFING DISH. \ I / HE chafing dish is very old, as it was used by the ancient W f Greeks and Romans, and we find it also in use during the g) I (g middle ages. Seneca says: " Daintiness gave birth to this ^ invention in order that no viand should be' chilled, and that everything should be hot enough to please the most pam- pered palate. The kitchen follows the supper." It is used at j)res- ent principally for preparing dishes directly upon the table, for late suppers and for light housekeeping that does not admit of the use of even an oil or gas stove. It is also very convenient in the sick room and in travelling. The Chafing Dish con- ^^ sists of 2 dishes one inside .^^i^^^^^^^^ the other, on a standard over ^^fr' ^^f ^^^^^^i;^")Hll^HI^^B When 2 are used the lower l^^^Sllll^^^^W one is filled with water and \l ^^^^fl y^" // this prevents the food from -^kj^^^^tf^m ^%^ burning, but it necessitates ""^^ ^JMm^ ^^^ slow cooking. '"*=' Chafing dishes are made a chafing dish. of various materials from the tin costing 50 cts. to $1. to the solid silver costing $100. or more. The cheaper ones costing from |2. to $5. will do as good work as any of the more expensive ones. The best wicks are of asbestos, and the fuel used is alcohol, but wood alchohol answers just as well as high proof spirits, and costs much less. Do not fill the lamp too full. Even the largest dishes will not burn over 5 or 6 cents worth of high proof spirits in an hour, so that their use is not as expensive as many peo- ple imagine. They give out practically no heat, so that they can be used with comfort in even the hottest weather. They can be used to advantage by the poor as well as the rich. The wicks should be perfectly trimmed and so regulated that all the flame comes under the dish, and none of it spreads out and up the sides. In using the hot water pan see that it contains the right quanti- ty of water — have it about ^ inch deep. Those are the most conven- ient which have a handle attached to both pans. If the chafing dish is placed on a large metal tray there will be less danger of fire or of staining the table. Russian bowls and wood- en spoons are the best to use. If a meal is prepared without any oth- er fire, two chafing dishes will be an advantage, as part of the food can then be kept hot while the balance is being cooked. 888 THE CHAFING DISH It is better to do the preliminary work of preparing the foods in the kitchen rather than in the presence of guests. As soon as the flame is put out put the water=pan, containing hot water, under the blazer; it will keep it warm. MEATS. CREAMED COLD MEAT.— Make the "White Sauce "given hereafter; then stir in 2 cups cold meat, cut small, and cook till it is thoroughly heated through. Season and serve. Cold roast beef, mutton, veal, lamb, turkey, chicken or duck is nice this way. If desired for a change 1 or 2 cups of cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, can be heated with the meat. Curry steio. — By adding a teaspoon of curry powder to the above a curry steio can be made. DEVILED MEAT.— Make the " Deviled Sauce " given hereafter, and put in cold roast meat cut into pieces; cook till thoroughly heated through and serve. Season more highly if desired. Cold roast beef, mutton, veal, lamb, turkey, chicken or duck are nice thus served. Lobster can be cooked the same way. MEAT RE=WARMED.— Into the blazer put 4 teaspoons butter, 2 teaspoons of fruit jelly (currant, grape, or apple) and the juice of half a lemon. Cook and stir till these are blended to form a smooth sauce ; then put in slices of cold roast beef, mutton or lamb, add pep- per and salt, and cook till they are thoroughly warmed through, turning the pieces frequently. Use a low flame, so as not to scorch the jelly. Cold game orfoivl may be re= warmed in the same way. BROILED BEEFSTEAK — Heat the blazer very hot, rub it with butter, and put in the steak; rather thin pieces are best; turn it often, and if it sticks to the pan or scorches, put in more butter. If the blazer is very hot it will broil nearly as well as on a gridiron. Lamb chops ( choose small, thin ones) or veal cutlets can be broiled the same way. Veniso7i steak can be broiled the same way. When nearly done a little jelly can be melted and poured over it or the jelly can be served with it. BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS.— In the bla- zer melt 1 tablespoon 1. STAND AND LAMP. 2. HOT WATEB PAN. 3, BLAZES OR CHAFING DISH. 4. WOODEN SPOON. 890 THE CHAFING DISH butter; when hot put in ^ lb. beefsteak cut into slices about ^ inch thick; cook about 5 minutes, turning so as to cook both sides; then put in 3 teaspoons chopped onions; cook about 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and serve. A little chopped parsley added last will be an improvement. DRIED BEEF — In the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter and 1 cup milk; when hot, put in ^ pint dried beef, chopped fine, and cook till well heated — about 6 minutes; then slowly stir in 2 beaten eggs, and when thick, season with salt and pepper and serve on fried bread or toast. Use both pans with hot water in the lower one. CALF'S BRAINS, CREAMED.— Prepare, parboil and cut the calf's brains into small pieces as directed on page 136. Make the " White Sauce " given hereafter, put in the prepared brains, cook 3 to 5 minutes, and serve. CALF'S LIVER AND BACON — Into the blazer put thin slices of bacon and cook till the fat drains out and then push it one side. Have thin slices of liver ready, sprinkle them with pepper, roll in flour, and fry them till brown and tender in the pork fat, turning fre- quently. Serve a slice of bacon with each piece of liver if desired. CHICKEN AND OYSTERS — Melt 2 tablespoons butter, and add 2 tablespoons of flour, ^ teaspoon salt and ^ saltspoon of pepper; pour on slowly 2 cups cream and then add 2 cups cold boiled chicken, cut into dice, and 2 cups oysters washed and drained; cook until the oys- ters are plump. Sprinkle with celery which has been chopped fine, and serve on toast. BROILED SWEETBREADS — Prepare the sweetbreads as di- rected on page 139. When the chafing dish is very hot rub it with butter; put in the prepared sweetbreads and broil them a delicate brown; be careful not to let them scorch; add more butter if they stick to the pan; when done add 2 teaspoons butter and when it melts put out the lamp. With each portion of the sweetbread serve a little of the butter. CREAMED SWEETBREADS.— Make the " White Sauce " giv- en hereafter; then put in the sweetbreads, prepared as directed on page 139; cook about 5 or 6 minutes, and serve. TRIPE WITH ONIONS.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons but- ter; when hot put in 1 tablespoon sliced onions and cook till brown; then put in 2 cups tripe cut into dice, add 1 cup milk or cream, and cook till -heated through. Season with salt and pepper and serve plain or on toast. SAUCES. DEVILED SAUCE.- — Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon of but- ter, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons vinegar, 2 onions, chopped fine, and 1 teaspoon mixed mustard; stir constantly, and THE CHAFING DISH 8^ cook about 2 minutes after the butter melts; then add 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, and a little salt and cayenne.* EGG SAUCE.— Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. In the blazer melt 1 tablesiDoon of Ibutter; add 3 heaping teaspoons of flour and a little water; stir constantly as it cooks, and as it thickens, thin with milk or cream (about ^ cup) until of the right consisten- cy; when done let it boil a minute, and add 3 hard boiled eggs cut into dice. Be careful not to burn the sauce. SAUCE PIQUANTE.— Into the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter, 2 teaspoons tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons of either cucumber, walnut, or tomato catsup, ^ a small onion finely minced, ^ teaspoon salt, a pinch of cayenne; let all boil together 3 or 4 minutes. Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. WHITE SAUCE. — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter; add 1 tablespoon of flour and stir constantly to keep it free from lumps; when these bubble put in 1 cup milk and stir till it thickens. Sea- son with salt and pepper. If desired, for additional flavor, add lemon juice or onion. Use both pans, having boiling water in the lower one. FISH AND SHELL^FISH. CREAMED FISH — Take 1 can salmon, turn it on a platter, take out all pieces of skin and bone and pick it well to pieces; drain, and let it stand 2 or 3 hours to aerate. Make the " White Sauce" previ- ously given; add the salmon and stir constantly until well heated through; then add a little lemon juice and serve. In the same way any other kind of fish can be cooked. CREAMED SALT COD.— Shred it well, put it in a colander and pour on boiling water 2 or 3 times. Prepare the " White Sauce " previously given; when hot put in 1 pint of the fish; when it is well heated add 1 cup cream; let it get hot and serve. FISH WITH SAUCE PIQUANTE.— Prepare the "Sauce Pi- quante" as previously directed; when hot, put in 2 cups cold flaked fish, and cook it till thoroughly heated through, turning it often so that the sauce may permeate it well.. HALIBUT STEAKS. — Have the steaks 3 or 4 inches square and about I inch thick. Sprinkle on salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg and roll in flour. Put 4 teaspoons butter in the blazer and when smoking hot put in the fish and fry it nicely. Garnish with slices of lemon, or sprinkle on lemon juice. SARDINES. — Free them from oil by letting them drain on paper, and scrape off the skin carefully. Choose those which are boneless. In the chafing dish melt 2 teaspoons butter; when hot put in the sardines and cook them carefully, turning them once to cook *NoTE. — For chafing dish cookery, paprica (which is a kind of red pepper) can be used in place of cayenne, and many prefer it. 892 THE CHAFING DISH both sides. When done, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on a little lemon juice, and serve on toast. BROOK TROUT. — Dress the trout and dip them in beaten egg seasoned with salt and pepper and roll them in flour; put 4 teaspoons butter in the blazer and when it is smoking hot put in the trout and cook till done. Time about 5 or 6 minutes. If desired, a little pars- ley can be fried with them. They can be fried the same way in olive oil if preferred. BOILED WHITE FISH.— Into the blazer put a slice of white fish nearly large enough to cover the bottom; pour on enough hot water to cover it, add 1 tablespoon vinegar and ^ teaspoon salt, and boil till done. Time, about 10 minutes. When served, pour on melted butter and sprinkle on chopped parsley. BROILED OYSTERS — Kub butter on the bottom of the chafing dish and when hot put in large, plump oysters; when one side is done turn and cook the other. Watch carefully or they will scorch, as they quickly brown. Add more butter if they stick to the bottom. Serve at once when done, DEVILED OYSTERS — In the blazer mix 1 teaspoon Worces- tershire sauce, 2 teaspoons melted butter, ^ teaspoon each of curry powder and salt, and a pinch of cayenne; as it heats put in 1 cup oyster liquor, and when it boils put in the oysters; cook them till plump, turning them 2 or 3 times, and serve at once, FRIED OYSTERS — Drain large oysters, sprinkle on pepper and salt, and roll in cracker crumbs-. Into the blazer put 3 tablespoons butter, and when hot put in the oysters; when one side is done turn and cook the other; lift out with a fork. Serve slices of lemon with them, or squeeze on a little lemon juice. OYSTERS IN THEIR SHELLS.— Put oysters in their shells into the chafing dish (first cleaning the shells thoroughly) and steam them till the shells will open. Time, ^ to -J hour. Then take off the upper shell, add pepper, salt and butter to season, and serve at once in the lower shell. Squeeze on lemon juice or serve with slices of lemon. PANNED OYSTERS — In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons of butter; when hot, put in some good sized oysters; when the edges curl season with salt, pepper, and a very little lemon juice. Serve on toast. STEWED OYSTERS.— In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; then stir in 2 teaspoons flour and add 2 cups oyster liquor; when it boils put in the oysters and cook till the edges curl. Season with pepper, salt, a dash of nutmeg and lemon juice, and serve. CREAMED CLAMS.— Into the blazer put 2 teaspoons butter and the same of flour: add 2 cups cream and stir and cook till it makes a smooth sauce: then put in 2 cups soft shell clams and cook till plump; stir in the beaten yolks of 2 eggs and cook 1 or 2 min- THE CHAFING DISH 893 utes. Add a little lemon juice and serve. Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. HARD SHELL CRABS — Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon butter; when smoking hot put in the crabs and fry them nicely. Add salt, pepper and a little lemon juice, and serve. OYSTER CRABS. — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; when hot put in the crabs. Time to cook, about 2 or 3 minutes. Add pepper, salt and a little lemon juice and serve. DEVILED SOFT SHELL CRABS — Take 2 teaspoons butter, 1 teaspoon each made mustard and curry powder, 1 saltspoon of salt and ^ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce; rub it to a smooth paste in the butter, and spread each crab with it. In the blazer melt a little butter; when smoking hot put in the prepared crabs and fry them nicely. Lobster meat, (it should be in large pieces), can be prepared the same way. SOFT SHELL CRABS. — Remove the feathery substance under the sides of the shell, rinse them in cold water, drain, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and dredge with flour. In the blazer melt 5 or 6 teaspoons of butter; when smoking hot put in the crabs and fry brown on both sides. Time to cook about 9 minutes. Select small crabs and have them fresh. CREAMED SCALLOPS.— Parboil 2 cups of scallops about 6 minutes in boiling water, and drain. In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons butter; stir in 2 teaspoons flour and 2 cups milk and cook till smooth; then put in the scallops. Time to cook, about 4 to 6 min- utes. Season with pepper and salt and serve. FRIED SCALLOPS. — Parboil the scallops about 5 minutes in boiling water; drain, dry, sprinkle on salt and pepper and roll them in cracker crumbs or flour. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in the blazer; when hot, put in the scallops and fry them a delicate brown. CREAMED SHRIMPS — Make the "White Sauce" previously given; put in the shrimps and simmer until they are heated through, and serve. STEWED SHRIMPS — Into the blazer put 2 tablespoons of but- ter; when bubbling hot put in the shrimps; as soon as they are thor- oughly heated put in 1 cup boiling water and cook about a minute; then add salt, pepper and a little lemon juice and serve. The canned shrimps can be used nearly as well as the fresh, but rinse them in cold water before they are cooked. FRIED SMELTS — Into the blazer, over the hot water pan, put 2 tablespoons butter; when hot put in a little lemon juice and then the smelts; cook on one side, then turn and cook the other. Season with salt and pepper and serve. A little chopped parsley added will be an improvement. 894 THE CHAFING DISH CREAMED LOBSTER.— Into the blazer, (be sure and have the hot water dish under it), put 2 teaspoons butter, 2 heaping teaspoons tlour, 1 cup milk and 1 cux-) cream; cook till it makes a smooth sauce; then put in 2 cups lobster, 1 teaspoon salt and a dash of cayenne; stir until the lobster is thoroughly heated through; then put in an- other cup of cream and leave just long enough to heat it well. Add a little lemon juice and serve. DEVILED LOBSTER. — Into the blazer put 2 large teaspoons butter, 1 saltspoon each of salt and dry mustard, and a pinch of cay- enne; when hot put in the meat of 2 small or 1 large lobster, and stir briskly till it is thoroughly heated; then add a little lemon juice and serve. FRIED LOBSTER. — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; when smoking hot put in 2 cups fresh lobster meat cut into small pieces; stir briskly and it will be done as soon as it is thoroughly hot. Add salt, a pinch of cayenne and a little lemon juice. A can of lobster can be used instead, but have the can opened and the lob- ster turned out and allowed to aerate 2 or 3 hours before being used, and cut the meat into small pieces. FROGS' LEGS — Skin and put them for 3 minutes in boiling salted water containing a little vinegar; lift out, pour on cold water, dry them, add salt and pepper and roll in flour. Put 4 teaspoons butter in the chafing dish and when smoking hot put in the frogs' legs and fry them a delicate brown. Sprinkle on chopped parsley, if convenient, and serve. Or the white sauce previously given can be made in the lower pan, and the fried frogs' legs served in it, EGGS. BOILED EGGS. — Have the water boiling,' put in the eggs and leave 1 minute; put out the lamp, leave on the cover, and leave the eggs in 5 or 6 minutes. EGG AND ANCHOVY TOAST.— Take 5 eggs, beat barely enough to mingle the yolks and whites, add ^ cup milk or cream, ^ teaspoon salt and ^ saltspoon pepper. Put 1 heaping tablespoon of butter into the blazer, and when melted add the egg mixture and stir until the egg is firm. Spread slices of toast with anchovy past, arrange them on a platter, and pour over the egg. CREAMED EGGS — Heat together in the blazer 1 cup cream and 1 cup veal or chicken stock; add 5 eggs beaten together, stir un- til thick, season with salt and pepper and serve. CUPPED EGGS — Have boiling water in the water pan, set 2 or 3 cups into it and when they are hot, break a couple of eggs into each one; cook 3 to 5 minutes with the cover on, season with pepper and salt and serve. This makes a delicate dish for invalids also. CURRIED EGGS — Make a sauce with 2 tablespoons of butter, the same of flour, ^ teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 salt- spoon pepper and 2 cups milk; cook till smooth, stirring constantly. THE CHAFING DISH 895 Pour it over 7 hard boiled eggs, cut into eighths, lengthwise, and serve. FRIED EGGS. — Melt in the blazer 4 teaspoons butter; when hot, break in the eggs, one at a time; turn them over and cook the other side as soon as they set; season with pepper and salt, and serve. OMELETS — Beat together 4 eggs, add 1 scant cup milk, ^ tea- spoon salt and a dash of jjepper; melt 4 teaspoons butter in the blazer, turn in the egg mixture and cook till set. To prevent its sticking slip a knife under the edge occasionally. When done, double it together carefully and serve. In cooking omelets it is best to. use both pans, having boiling water in the lower one. Any kind of omelet can be made in this way by adding, before folding it, cheese, oysters, tomatoes, jelly, orange, mushrooms, or whatever one has on hand or desires to use. SCRAMBLED EGGS — In the blazer melt 1 tablespoon of but- ter; turn in \ doz. eggs, beaten barely enough to mix the yolk^and whites; stir constantly till thick and smooth; season with salt and pepper and serve. EGGS ON TOAST — In the blazer melt 1 tablespoon butter; add 4 beaten eggs, 4 teaspoons cream, \ teaspoon salt, and a little black and red pepper; stir till smooth, pour it on toast or crackers and serve. VEGETABLES. ASPARAGUS — (1) Boil stocks of asparagus in slightly salted water till tender. Time, about \ hour. Drain, season, and serve either with melted butter or the " White Sauce " previously given. (2) H canned asparagus is used wash it in cold water and drain; cook it in slightly salted water till heated through, drain, and sprve the same way. CANNED LIMA BEANS — Wash 1 can lima beans in cold water and drain; melt 2 tablespoons butter in the blazer, put in the beans, cook till thoroughly heated through, season to taste and serve. String Beans can be cooked the same way, but they take longer .to cook than lima beans and are not so delicate. CANNED CORN. — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter; put in 1 can sweet corn, cook till thoroughly heated, season with pep- per and salt and serve. SUCCOTASH — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Wash 1 can lima beans in cold water, drain, and put them into the blazer; add 1 can of corn and cook, stirring constantly, until they are thoroughly heated through. Season with pepper and salt and serve. FRIED ONIONS.— In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons of butter; when hot, put in onions which have been peeled and cut into strips 896 THE CHAFING DISH and cook till tender. Time, about 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve. Be careful that they do not burn. BRAISED MUSHROOMS — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter. Have mushrooms ready which have been washed and peeled, and when the butter is hot put them in, top down, and cook. Time, about \ hour, Add pepper and salt to season, and serve plain or on toast, pouring over them the juice they were cooked in. Sprinkling on a little chopped parsley will be an improvement. CANNED GREEN PEAS — In the chafing dish melt 4 teaspoons butter; turn in 1 can of peas and stir continually until they are thoroughly heated. Season to taste and serve. It will toughen them if cooked too long. FRESH GREEN PEAS.— Have \ pint boiling water in the chaf- ing dish, and turn in 2 cups fresh young "peas and boil till tender; then stir in two teaspoons butter, season with salt and pepper and serve. A little sugar will be an improvement, and cream if you have it. BOILED POTATOES — Put into the chafing dish thinly sliced potatoes, add enough boiling water to cover them, add a little salt, and boil till done. Time, about 20 minutes. Then drain, season with butter and salt and serve. Watch them while cooking and do not let them stick to the bottom of the pan. For Creamed Potatoes (1) boil as above, then drain and add milk or cream, bring it to a boil, add seasoning to taste and serve. Or (2) in the blazer melt 4 teaspoons butter and add 1 cup milk; when warm put in cold boiled ]3otatoes, cut into dice, and cook till heated through; then stir in 2 teaspoons flour mixed with a little cold milk; as soon as it thickens add pepper and salt to season, and serve. Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. LYONNAISE POTATOES — In the blazer melt 4 teaspoons but- ter or dripping; when hot fry in it a small onion, sliced thin; then add cold boiled potatoes, also sliced, and fry them. Leave out the onions if they are not liked. Sprinkle on finely minced parsley before serving, if convenient. FRIED POTATOES. — In the chafing dish melt 4 teaspoons butter or chicken fat; when bubbling hot put in thinly sliced new potatoes, cook to a light brown, and serve. FRIED SWEET POTATOES — In the blazer melt 2 tablespoons butter; when hot put in thin slices of cold boiled sweet potatoes; turn often and cook till thoroughly heated through. Season to taste and serve. DEVILED TOMATOES.— Cream 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 tea- spoon powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon mustardj 1 saltspoon salt, and {- saltspoon pepper. Mash the yolk of 1 hard boiled egg, add 1 raw^ egg beaten slightly, and 1| tablespoons hot vinegar; cook until it thickens. Remove the skins from 3 tomatoes, cut them into thick slices, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry in but- THE CHAFING DISH 897 ter. Pour the sauce over the tomatoes and serve. Firm canned tomatoes can be used if more convenient. FRIED TOMATOES.— Excellent with cold meat. Into the chaf- ing dish put 4 teaspoons butter; when melted put in thick slices of raw tomatoes and cook till tender, turning frequently; season with salt and pepper and serve. CREAMED TOMATOES — Fry and season 6 raw tomatoes as above directed; when tender, stir in 1 cup rich milk or cream in which two heaping teaspoons of flour have been stirred; cook until it thickens, stirring constantly. Serve at once. CHEESE AND PANCAKES. CHEESE FONDU — In the blazer melt 2 teaspoons butter; then add ^ pint milk, 1 pint grated cheese, ^ pint fresh bread crumbs, ^ teaspoon of salt, a little pepper and a pinch of soda; cook till smooth. Time, about 5 or 6 minutes. Then stir in slowly 2 beaten eggs, cook 2 or 3 minutes and serve. Use both pans, with hot water in the lower one. Have everything ready before beginning to cook them. CHEESE WITH EGGS — Beat 5 eggs light, add 5 heaping tea- spoons of very dr-y, grated cheese, ^ teaspoon salt and a pinch of cay- enne. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in the blazer, add the egg mixture and cook till thick, stirring constantly. Pour it on toast or crack- ers and serve. ENGLISH MONKEY — Soak 1 cup stale bread crumbs in 1 cup milk ^ hour. Into the chafing dish put 1 heaping teaspoon butter, add ^ cup soft cream cheese cut fine, and stir until melted. Add the crumbs, with 1 beaten egg, ^ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of cayenne; cook 3 minutes, pour it on to toasted crackers and serve. WELSH RAREBIT — Into the blazer put 1 tablespoon butter and when melted add f lb. cheese cut fine, 1 saltspoon salt and ^ saltspoon of cayenne. When creamy, add gradually ^ cup cream and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; pour it over thin crackers or wafers and serve. PANCAKES — Take 3 beaten eggs, ^ cup flour, | pint milk, 1 teaspoon sugar and ^ teaspoon salt; thoroughly mix all till smooth. In the blazer melt 1 teaspoon butter and when hot turn in a little of the batter; when done on one side turn and brown the other. Serve sprinkled with sugar or jelly. GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN COOKERY. AppUisants ( A-pay-tee-zan ). — Small savories served before or between the courses of a dinner. Aspic. — A savory jelly, used mostly for garnishing. Assiette (ass-yett).- — Small entrees not exceeding what one plate will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, etc., if served on a plate, are term^ed ass- iettes. Attelets or Hdtelets (hay-t-lay). — Small skewers. When of silver or plated they are used in dishing up food. Au Bleu. — (o-bleu). — Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance. Au Gras (o-gra). — Dressed with meat stock. Au Gratin (o-gratin). — Prepared with bread crumbs. Au Jus (o-joo). — In the natural juice or gravy. Au Nature I (o-na-tu-rel). — Plain, simple cookery; or anything served raw, like oysters. Bain -Marie (ban ma-ree). — A metal pan which has a loose bottom to hold hot water, into which small vessels can be set to keep their con- tents warm. Barde(ha,v-d). — A thin slice of fat bacon used, when preferred, instead of lard- ing, to cover meat, poultry, etc. Barder (bar-day). — To bard. Barole (bar-oll).^A thin slice of fat bacon placed on steaks, fowls, etc., instead of larding. Baron of Meat. — Two sirloins, or hind quarters, not cut apart. Baste. — To sprinkle on flour and salt, or pour on butter or fat — as on meat when roasting. Batterie de Cuisine (ba-ter-ee-de-kwe- zi-n). — A complete set of cooking apparatus. Bechamel (bay-sha-mell). — A white saace. Beignet (bain-yay). — Another name for fritter. Bisque (bisk). — A shellsfish soup. Blanc (blanh). — White. Any process to give a more delicate appearance -as to whiten poultry, etc. Blan- chir. To whiten poultry, fruit, veg- taables, etc. Blanch. — To plunge anything into boil- ing water for a few minutes. Blanquette (blanh-kett). — Thin slices of white meat of any kind, warmed up in a white sauce and thickened with yolks of eggs. Blignir (bleen-yay). — To fritter any- thing in butter and egg and fry. Bonbon (bon-bon). — Sweetmeats. Bouchees (boo-shay). — Mouthfuls. Small patties filled with various preparations. Boudin (boo-dan). — Delicate dishes prepared from forcemeat, etc. Bouillabaise (boo-ya-base). — A fish soup. Bouilli (boo-ee). — Meat (usually beef) which is stewed a long time. Bouillie (boo-yee). — A French dish re- sembling hasty pudding. Bouillon (boo-yohn). — Broth or stock; the common soup of France; the liquor from the boilli. 899 900 GLOSSARY Bouquet of Herbs (bo-kay). — Parsley, onion, thyme and a bay leaf tied to- gether; used for seasoning soups, etc. Bouquet Garni, or Assaisonn6 (as-sai- zon-ay) is the same as the foregoing, with the addition of cloves or aro- niatic herbs. Braise (brayz). — To cook in a closely covered dish or braising pan. Braiser. — To stew meat in a braising pan. Braisiire (brayz-yair). — A pan used for braising. Brawn. — Flesh of a boar. Also the salted and prepared flesh or head of a pig. Brioche (bree-osh). — A very light bun= like cake. Baioche au couronne is a broche in the form of a crown or ring. Brisket (bris-ket) — The breast of meat, or the part lying next the ribs. Brider (bree-day). — To pass a thread through poultry, game, etc., to keep the parts together. Brunoise (broon-warze). — Clear soup with vegetables. Caf6 au lait (ka-fay-o-lay). — Coflfee with milk. Caf6 Noir (ka-fay-nwar). — Strong, black cofifee. Caisse (kase). — A little case of paper or china in which various savories are served. Calipash (kal-e-pash). — The glutinous substance or meat found in the up- per shell of a turtle. Calipee (kal-e-pee). — The glutinous flesh found in the lower shell of a turtle. Canape (kan-nap). — A small savory; a round crouton with a puree in it. Cannelons (kan-lohn). — Little rolls of pastry variously filled. Capilotade (ka-pee-lo-tad). — A hash of cooked meat or poultry. Capon (ka-pon). — A chicken gelded and fattened for the table. Caramel. — Sugar heated to 420° F. when it loses its power of crystal- lization and acquires a dark brown color and a bitter flavor. Casserole (kas-role). — A crust of rice, potato, etc., which is to be filled with a ragout or other preparation. Also a stew pan. Caul (kaul). — A membrane surround- ing most of the lower intestines. Caviar (ka-ve-arr). — A preparation of the roes of certain fish. Charlotte (shar-lot). — Thin slices of bread steeped in clarified butter and placed in regular order and gar- nished. They are entremets. Chartreuse (shar-treuz). — A dish made in a mold which is lined in various ways. Chaufroids (show-fro-war).-^Entrem- ets;,a thick sauce for purposes of masking. Chine (kine). — A piece of the back bone of an animal. Choux (shoo). — Small French cakes. Civet (see-va). — A thick, rich stew of hare or rabbit. Clouter (klou-te). — To insert nail shaped pieces of tongue etc., into meat or poultry; to put cloves in meat. Collop (kol-lop). — A small, thin, round slice of poultry or meat. Comfits (kon-fits). — Confections ; sweet- meats. Confitures (kon-fee-ture). — Preserves, sweetmeats, jams, etc. Compote (kom-pot). — A stew of fruit, vegetables, etc. Consommi (kon-som-may). — A strong, clear soup. Coquilles (ko-kee-ye). — Shell*shaped dishes for serving oysters and other savories. Couronne, En (koo ron). — To serve anything like fritters, etc., in the shape of a crown or ring. Cover. — The place at table arranged for each guest. Crackling. — The rind of roast pork. Crepes (kreeps). — A kind of panscake. GLOSSAEY 901 Croquantees (kro-kan-te). — A bright mixture of fiuit and boiled sugar. Croquettes (kro-kets). — A preparation of minces of meat, etc., flavored and fried in any desired shape. The word signifies something crisp. Croustades (kroos-tard). — Rich pie crust or paste, baked in ornamental shapes and filled with minces, etc. CroUte (krou-t). — Crusts or cakes. Croutons (kru-tong).- — Fried sippets of bread used for garnishing. Cullis (kul-lis). — A strong broth of meat, strained and made clear. Also a savory jelly. Curacoa (kur-a-so). — A flavoring extract made from oranges. (See "Extracts and Flavorings "). Curry (kur-ry).— A kind of sauce con- taining pepper and other strong spices. Also a stew of fowl, fish, etc., cooked with curry sauce. Dariole (da-re-ol). — Custard, cream= cake, or a sweet tart baked in a dariole mold. Dartwois (dar-twor). — A French puff* paste cake. Dav.be (doe-b). — Stewed meat. En daube, is meat, fowl or game stewed in sauce. Daubiere (doe-bee-air). — An oval stew= pan. Dauphins (doe-fen). — Tartletts filled with preserves. Dtsosser (das-os-say). — To take the bones out of meat, poultry, etc. Dorie (doe-ray). — Egg beaten up and brushed over pastry to give it a golden hue. Dorure (doe-roor). — Literally gilding. Well beaten yolks of eggs used to give surfaces a golden or yellow color. Dover, to gild with the fore- going. Dresden Patties. — Same as croustades, which see. Eclair (a-klair). — A small, light cake. Entrees (on-tray).— The made dishes which follow the first course at a meal. Entremet (on-tre-may). — Small side dishes, usually ornamental, served during the second course. Entre- mets Sucre, are sweet entremets, and include cakes, puddings, etc. Japigramme or Epigram (ep-e-gram). — An entree in which two materials are placed alternately in a ring. Escallopes. — Same as collops which see. Espagnole (es-pa-gnol). — A rich, brown, Spanish sauce. Fagot. — A small bunch of thyme, pars- ley, etc., tied together. Farce (fars). — Forcemeat or stuffing. Feuilletage (few-e-tazh). — Puff paste. Fillet (fil-let). — A piece of meat, game or fish cut into a string4ike form. Also the under cut of a sirloin of beef. Financiire (fee-nan-ce-air). — A highly flavored ragout or sauce. Flamber (flom-bay). — To singe fowl or game after being picked. Flan (flan). — A French custard. Fiance (flarn-s). — Side dishes for dinner. Flaun. — Small pastry, much like tarts. Florentines (flor-an-tin). — Light pastry meringued over. Flummery. — Originally a sort of pap made of flour or meal; now a light food made of various ingredients. Fondant (fon-dahn). — Literally melt- ing; a candy preparation to be melted when used. Fondue (fon-doo). — A dish made with melted cheese. Forcemeat. — Mixtures, principally of bread crumbs, herbs and suet, chopped together very fine and fla- vored. Frappe (f rap-pay). — Meaning literally to pack in ice boxes; hence applied to beverages partly frozen by being packed in ice. Frangipane (frarn-ge-pann). — A kind of pastry containing cream and almonds. 902 GLOSSARY Frieandeaux (free-kon-doe).- — A piece of meat larded and braised; served usually as an entree. Fricassee (fric-as-say). — Fowls, etc., cut in pieces and fried. Fritter (frit-ter). — Anything coated .with egg, batter, etc., and fried. Friture (fri-ture). — The substance used for frying fritters; frying fat or pan; fried meat or fish. Galantine (ga-lan-tin). — Fish, meat, poultry, etc., boned, stuffed, cooked, and variously garnished. Galette (ga-let). — A broad thin cake — a kind of muffin. Garniture (gar-ni-ture ). — The garnish- es or adjuncts to a dish. Gateau (ga-toe). — Cake, literally; used often to denote a pudding, or a kind of tart. Gaufres (go-fers). — Waffles; wafers; light, spongy biscuit. Genoises (ge-nwor-s). — Small cakes made of French paste. Giblets (gib-lets). — The parts of a fowl which are removed before cooking, as the heart, liver, gizzard, etc. Glace or Glaze (glass). — Anything iced. In confectionery to cover fruits, etc., with sugar which glistens when hardened. Also stock boiled down thick; used to improve the appear- ance of braised dishes. Glacer. — To apply the foregoing glaze. Godiveau (go-de-vo). — Savory force- meats, used for entrees, etc. Grenadines (gren-aw-din). — Stewed meat; also a dish similar to force- meat. Granites (grah-nit). — A beverage com- posed of light syrup and the juice of various fruits. Gras (grah). — Fat. An gras, means dressed with meat gravy. Gratin (gra-tin). — Meat, fish, etc., co- vered with crumbs and browned. Griskin (gris-kin). — The spine of a hog. Haricot (har-e-ko). — Beans. Also a stew of vegetables and meat; origi- nally a dish of meat with harcots — hence the name. Harslet (hars-let). — The heart, liver, etc., of an animal. Hartlet (hart-let). — -A small wooden or metal skewer. Hors d' ceuvres (hor-deu-vrr). — Small side dishes served after the soup or fish. They are considered as appe- tizers, and consist of sardines, an- chovies, cheese souffles, etc. HucJcle. — The hip. The huckle bone is the thigh bone. Jardiniere (zhar-deen-yaire). — A mixed preparation of vegetables stewed down in their own sauce. Julienne (ju-lien). — Clear soup, con- taining vegetables cut in strips. Jugged. — Boiled or stewed in a jug; thus jugged hare is a dish prepared from stewed hare. Kirswasser (keersh-was-ser). — A liquor obtained from fermented black cher- ries. Knuckle. — The knee joint, especially of a calf, as a knuckle of veal. Kromeskies (kro-mees-kees). — A Rus- sian dish, prepared from croquettes wrapped in bacon and fried. Lard. — French for Bacon; hence to stuff bacon into meat, poultry, etc. The larding pan is the vessel used in larding. Lardons or Lardoons. — The pieces of bacon, pork, etc., used in larding meat. Liaison (le-a-zon). — Literally a bind- ing together; hence a mixture of cream, eggs, etc., used to bind and thicken soups and sauces. Legumes (le-gume). — From the Latin legere, to pluck. Applied generally to vegetables which can be gathered by plucking, like lettuce, aspara- gus, etc. Lights. — The lungs of an animal. Lit (le). — Literally a bed or a layer; hence slices in layers, with seasoning between. GLOSSARY 903 Luting (lu-ting). — A paste used to " lute " or 'fasten the lids on dishes of potted game, etc. Macaroon (mak-a-roon). — A small, sweet cake. Macedoine (ma-see-do-an). — A mixture of fruits or vegetables. Madeleine (mad-e-leen). — A cake similar to pound cake. Maigre (may-gre). — Dishes made ■with- out meat. Maitre d' hotel (me-ter-dotel). — The steward. A la maitre de hotel, is literally in the housekeeper's or steward's manner. Maraschino (mar-as-kee-no). — A fla- voring extract made from cherries. (See " Extracts and Flavorings.") Marble. — To glaze any dish by sprink- ling with sugar and then burning it with a hot salamander or omelet shovel. Marinade (mar-e-nade). — A liquor in which to steep meat, fish, etc., to heighten the flavor. Marinate. (mar-e-nate). — To steep anything in a marinade. Marmalade (mar-ma-lade). — A preserve made of quince or other fruit. Mask. — To entirely cover an article with any preparation. Matelot (ma-t-low). — A fish stew, with wine. Maw. — The stomach of one of the lower animals. Mayonnaise (may-on-aze). — A sauce or salad dressing, made of oil, etc. Mazarines (ma-zar-reen). — Same as "turbans," which see. Menage (me-nazh). — Family; house- hold; housewife. Menu (men-oo). — The bill of fare. Meringue (mer-rang). — A kind of icing made of sugar and eggs beaten to- gether. Merepoix (me-ra-pwah). — Essence of meat and vegetables. Mirleton (meer-le-ton). — Tartlets made of chocolate, almonds, pistachio nuts, or with preserves and jams. Mirotin (me-ro-ton). — Slices of meat, larger than collops; the meat served in a ring. Montglas (mon-glar). — A preparation of poultry, ganae, etc., chopped, mixed with mushrooms, etc., and thickened with sauce. Mouiller (moo-yay). — Literally to wet; to add water or broth during cook- ing. Mouse (moose). — The piece of beef cut from the part next below the round; also called the mouse=buttock. Mousse (moose). — Literally moss; a preparation of cream, sugar, etc., frozen; much like ice cream. Nougat (noo-ga). — A cake miade of al- monds and sugar. Noodles (nu-dles). — A mixture of flour and eggs cut in strips and boiled. Noyau (nwa-yo). — A flavoring extract made from almonds. (See " Ex- tracts and Flavorings .") Nudels. — Same as noodles. Omelette (om-let). — Derived from the French oeufs meler, meaning ming- led eggs. Omelette souffle is a puffed up omelette. Omelette aux confi- tures, contains jellies and other sweets. Orgeale (or-zha). — A beverage made with sugar, almonds and water. Panada (pa-na-da). — A mixture of bread, milk, etc., used in making forcemeats. Also bread or crackers soaked in water or milk and season- ed. Paner (pa-nay). — To cover with egg and bread crumbs. Papillotes (pa-pee-yot). — Cutlets, etc., cooked and sent to the table in papers. Parmesan (par-me-zan). — Parmesan cheese. Parboil (par-boil). — To boil moder- ately or in part. Panure (pan-nure). — Cutlets, cro- quettes, etc., which are covered with bread crumbs. 904 GLOSSARY Pdte (pa-tay). — A small pie. Pate de foie gras is literally a pie of fat liver. Patty or Patties. — Small pies. Paupiettes (po-pe-et). Slices of meat, rolled. Petits Fours (pee-tee-foor). — Small cakes. Piccalilli (pik-ka-lil-li). — An East Indian dish of pungent spices, etc. Pihce de Resistance (pace de ra-zis- tarnce). — The principal dish of the dinner. Pilaff (pe-laf). — Same as pilau. Pilau or Pillau (pil-low). — A Turkish dish consisting of stewed rice with meat or poultry. Piping (pi-ping). — -Ornamenting pas- try, etc., with a piping tube. Piquer (pee-kay). — To lard meat. Pluck. — The heart, liver and lights of an animal. Poeie (po-ell).- — Stock used for boil- ing fowls, etc. Posset (pos-set). — To curdle; a bever- age compound of curded milk, etc. Potage (po-taj). — Soup. Pot^au'Feu (pote-o-few). — Literally the pot on the fire; hence the stock pot for soup; also now applied to the broth made in the pot. P rintanier (prin-ta-ne-ay). — Clear soup, with spring vegetables of various kinds. Puree (pu-ree). — Vegetables, meat, etc., reduced to a pulp and mixed with liquid to make a thick soup. Quenelle (kee-nel). — Delicate forcemeat formed into balls and poached. RagoM (ra-goo). — A rich stew of meats, etc. Raisine (ray-ze-nay). — A French jam compounded of fruits, etc. Ramequins (ram-kin). — An entremet, made from cheese, puff paste, etc. Ravigote (ray-ve-go). — A rich white sauce. Rechauffe (ray-show-fee). — Literally reheated; hence meat, etc., rewarmed. Relieves (ral-ve). — Dishes, like roasts, which form the substantial part of the meal. Removes. — Same as relieves. Remoulade (rem-oo-lad). — A sharp sauce used for salad dressing. Rissoles (re-soU). — Puff paste filled with minces and fried. Roux (roo). — Fried or burnt flour used for thickening soups, etc. Salmis (sal-me). — Hashes of game. Saute (so-tay). — To fry in a frying pan. Sauter, is to fry thus in a sauce. Savories (sa-vo-rees). — Small dishes o'f cheese, etc., served at the close of dinner. Semole (see-mool). — A coarse, sand like, wheat meal. Serviette (serv-yet). — A napkin. A la serviette, is served up in a napkin. Sherbet (sher-bet). — An agreeable fla- vored beverage. Sippets (sip-pets). — Small pieces of bread, fried and used for garnishing. Skewer. — A pointed piece of wood used to hold meat in place while cooking. Sorbet (sor-bay). — A partly frozen, well flavored beverage. Saubetiere, a box used for making sorbets. Soufle (soo-flay). — A light pudding. Stock. — The broth of which soups are made. Tamis or Tammy (Tam-my). — A fine sieve for straining sauces, broth, etc Timbale (tim-bal). — A sort of meat pie. Truffle (truf-fle). — A kind of mush- room. Truss. — To skewer; to prepare fowls for cooking. Turbans (tur-ban). — Ornamental small dishes made of fillets of fish, game, etc. Veloute (ve-loo-tay). — A rich white sauce. Vohau'Vent (vol-o-van). — ^A crust of puff paste filled with a ragout, fruit, etc. Zest. — The thin yellow rind of orange used for flavoring. INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT. BEVERAGES AND SYRUPS. Chicory 562 Choca 563 Chocolate .562, 563 Cocoa 563, 564 Coffee 556 to 562 amount to use 559 a simple method for 560 boiled coffee 559,560 cafe au lait 561 caf 6 noir 560 caramel coffee 561 coffee pot 558 cream and sugar for 558 essentials of making 559 filtered coffee 559 French coffee 560 grinding coffee 557 iced coffee 561 mixing coffee 562 origin, etc 562 over-boiling : 558 roasting coffee 557 settling the coffee 558 steamed coffee 560 substitutes for coffee 561 the water used 556 • Vienna coffee 561 with cold water 560 Mate, or Paraguay tea 561 Tea, to make 554 iced 554, 555 essentials of making 555 orange tea 555 origin, etc 556 the teapot 555 the water used 555 Miscellaneous beverages . 564 to 570 about summer drinks 576 apple water 564 Miscellaneous beverages (Contin- ued). blackberry nectar 565 cherry acid 565 cider 569 cocoanut beverage 565 cream soda 565 currant shrub 565 currant water 565 ginger beverage 566 ginger pop 569 gooseberry shrub 566 grape juice and almonds. .565 grape water 565 jelly beverages-. 565 Koumiss 565 lemonade, 6 recipes,.. 566, 567 lemon beer 569 mead 567 milk beer 569 oatmeal drink 567 orangeade 568 orgeate ; 568 Persian beverage 568 pineapple beverage 568 raspberry acid 568 raspberry shrub 568 raspberry water 568 spruce beer 570 strawberry acid 569 strawberry shrub 568 strawberry water ......... 569 tamarind water 568 tisane 569 tomato beverage 569 tutti frutti 569 vinegar water 567 Honey, artificial 572 Syrups, 16 recipes . . . 570 to 572 905 56 906 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT BILLS OF FARE. Bills of fare 615 to 628 Breakfast 611 Dinner, bills of fare for 612 Purchasing provisions 611 Vegetables to serve with meats etc 613 BREAD, BISCUIT, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, WAFFLES, TOAST, SANDWICHES, ETC. Bannock, Indian 279 Biscuit, 14 recipes 273, 274 Bread, 257 to 272 baking of 259 ' baking powder bread . 262, 268 baking powder to make . . . 265 Boston brown 269, 270 bread=box for 261 brown 269 buttermilk 269 Garolinia rice 271 corn 270 cornmeal for 261 eating hot 261 entire wheat 267 essentials of fnaking 258 " gluten 271 graham 27] half and half 267 keeping of 260 Kentucky egg corn 270 kneading of 258 milk, 267,268 mixing flours for 261 mixing of 257 oatmeal 271 once raised 268 oven for baking 259 pans for 259 pastry flour for 262 prepared flour 262 principles involved in mak- ing 262 potatoes in 262 pumpkin 272 rice 271 rising of 258 rye 272 salt rising 268 squash 272 stale, to utilize 272 Bread, steamed corn 270 sugar in 262 time to bake 266 water 266 white 266 white corn 270 yeast for 258 Brioches 275 Buns, 3 recipes 274, 275 Cakes, buckwheat, baked . . . 279 Corn cake 278 Cracked wheat 288 Crackers, 4 recipes .... 276, 277 Crackers, cheese 202 Crumpets, 2 recipes 282 Diamonds, graham 277 Dodgers, corn 279 Farina 288 Flannel cakes 285 Gems, 3 recipes 280 Gems, egg 187 Granula 288 Griddle cakes, 18 recipes283to285 Hasty pudding 289 Hoe cake 279 Hulled corn 288 Imperial granum 288 Johnny cake, 5 recipes 276 277 Mufiins, 14 recipes 280. 281 Mushes, 10 recipes. . .286 to 288 Oatmeal cakes 282, 283 Patties, green corn 279 Pone, corn 278, 279 Pop overs 283 Puffs, 2 recipes 283 Rolls, 4 recipes 276 Rusks, 2 recipes 275 Sally lunn 282 Sandwiches, 40 recipes 290 to 294 Scones, 2 recipes 282 Spider cake, 2 recipes 278 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 907 BREAD, BISCUIT, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, WAFFLES, TOAST, SANDWICHES, ETC.— Continued. Toast, 7 recipes 289, 280 Toast, tomato 253 Wafers 273 Waffles, 7 recipes 285, 286 Wheat germ 288 Wheatlet with dates 288 Yeast, 5 recipes 263 264 CAKES. Cakes 346 to 480 Almonds, to prepare 348 Baking powder 349 Beating and stirring 352 Baking cake 353 Butter for cake 346 Cake baked in paper 352 Cake pans 352 Cinnamon 348 Citron, preparing for use . . . 348 Cocoanut, preparing for use. 348 Cream of tartar 349, 350 Crystallization 398 Currants, preparing for use. 349 Dates, preparing for use. . . .349 Eggs for cakes 347 Extracts, and flavorings 355 Frosting, 12 recipes 393 to 395 Icing, 4 recipes 395 Ornamental icing .... 395 to 398 Paper cones for icing 396 Piping 397 Materials for cake 346 Milk for cake, etc 348 Molasses for cooking 347 to 351 Flour, pastry 347 Fruit cake, hints about 354 Fruit for cake 348 Gingerbread, hints about. . .355 High altitudes, cooking in. .358 How to mix cake 351 Raisins for cake 349 Soda for cooking 349, 350 Spices 348 Sugar for cake 346 The oven 353 LAYER CAKES 359 to 372 Fillings for layer cakes 359 to 363 almond filling 359 LAYER CAKE FILLINGS (Con- tinned. ) apple=filling 359 banana filling 359 caramel filling 359 chocolate filling 359 cocoanut filling 360 cranberry filling 360 cream filling 360 cream chocolate filling .... 360 custard filling 360 date filling 360 dried fruit filling 359 fig filling 360 fruit cream filling 362 icing filling 360 jelly filling 361 lemon filling 361 lemon honey filling 361 maple filling 361 mock maple filling 361 mock whipped cream .... 360 nut filling .361 orange filling 361, 362 peach filling 362 plum filling 362 prune filling 362 raisin filling 362 raspberry filling 363 rhubarb filling 362 strawberry filling .... 362, 363 tutti f rutti filling 363 whipped cream filling. . . .360 LAYER CAKES .....363 1-2-3 cake 363 almond cake 364 apple jelly cake 364 chocolate, 2 recipes 364, 365 cocoanut cake, 2 recipes . . 365 908 INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPAKTMENT CAKES — Continued. LAYER CAKES (continued.) cocoanut white cake 370 corn=starch jelly cake 368 cream cake, 3 reci^Des, 364, 365 cream puffs 371 custard cake 366 date cake 366 Denver cake 366 economical layer cake. . . .366 fig layer cake 366 Iroquois cake 367 jelly cake 367 Minnehaha cake 368 nut layer cake 368 orange cake 368 oriental cake 369 peach cake 367 polonaise cake 370 ribbon cake 371 Rochester jelly cake 367 rolled jelly cake 368 strawberry cake 373 vanity cake 372 white cake 370 LOAF CAKES 372 to 398 almond cake 372 angel's food .373 apple cake, 3 recipes .... 373 black cake 374 blueberry cake 374 bread cake 374 buttermilk cake 374 Cameron cake 374 Canada cake 375 chocolate cake 375 cider cake 375 citron cake .• • • • 375 clove cake 375 coffee cake 375 cold water cake 376 Confederate cake 376 corn=starch, 2 recipes . . . .376 cream cake 376 date cake 377 LOAF CAKES (Continued.) delicate cake 376 Dennison cake 377 dough cake 377 feather cake 378 fountain cake 378 French cake 377 fruit cake, 6 recipes. 378, 379 Georgia cake 379 gingerbread, 13 recipes 388 to 390 gingerbread, icing for . . . 395 ginger cake 388 gold cake 379 graham 380 groom's cake 380 hasty cake 380 hickory-nut cake 380 huckleberry cake 374 ice cream cake 380 imperial cake 381 lemon 381 marble cake, 2 recipes .... 381 molasses cake 382 mountain cake 382 quick cake 383 plum- cake 382 poor man's cake 383 pork cake 383 pound cake 383 one egg cake 382 orange cake .382 raisin cake 383, 384 raised cake 383 silver cake. 384 snow cake 384 spice cake 385 sponge cake, 6 recipes, 384, 385 sunshine cake 386 Tennessee cake 386 watermelon cake 387 wedding cake 386 white cake 387 whortleberry cake 388 INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPARTMENT 909 SMALL CAKES, COOKIES, JUMBLES, SNAPS, ETC. Almond drops 398 Anise drops 398 Cookies, 15 recipes . . 899 to 402 Cookies, icing for 395 Cream cakes 407 Eclairs 405 Ginger biscuits 402 Ginger drops, 2 recipes. . . .399 Ginger nuts . , . . ' 399 Ginger snaps, 4 recipes .... 403 Jumbles, 4 recipes 402 Kisses 406 Lady fingers 404 Macaroons, 4 recipes . . 404, 405 Maple sugar cakes 406 Patty cakes 406 Pastry bag, to make 404 Pulfs 407 Pufit's, cream 405 Sand tarts 408 Savoy biscuits 407 Shrewsbury cakes 407 Snaps. 6 recipes 40i;>. 404 Trifles 408 Turtle cakes 408 Vernon cakes 407 HOME CANDY MAKING. Boiling sugar 448 to 450 ball degree 449 blow degree 449 caramel degree 450 crack degree 449 feather degree 449 pearl degree 449 thread degree 449 Coloring candy 448 Flavoring candy 448 " Greasing*' the syrup 450 Keeping candy 450 Materials and tools 447 Pulling candy 448 Testing the syrup 450 Candies ..451 to 463 almond creams 453 balls 453 bonbons 456 butternut balls 461 butter scotch 458 caramels 460 chocolate creams 453 cocoanut creams 453, 456 corn^cake 462 cough candy .458 cream candies. . .451, 454, 455 cream coated fruits 454 cream nut candy 456 cream walnuts, dates, etc. . 455 crystallized cherries 461 crystallized fruits 462 crystallized nuts 462 Candies (Continued.) drops 459, 460 fig candy 461 fondant 451, 454 French chocolates 461 frosted or iced fruits 462 fruit creams 453 ginger drops 459 glaces 456 hoarhound candy 460 honey candy 461 lemon creams 452 lemon drops 459 lozenges 455 maple sugar creams 453 marsh=mallows 456 molasses candy 457, 458 nougat 456 orange creams 452 orange peel, candied 463 patties 454 peanut candy 461 peppermint drops 459 popcorn 461, 462 raspberry creams .453 ratafias 462 strawberry creams 453 sweet flag candy 458 tafPy 457 walnut creams 453 white candy 462 wintergreen drops 460 910 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. A word of caution 520 Breaking of jars 519 Food value of canned goods. 520 Improving the flavor 520 Keeping canned goods 520 Principles involved in can- ning 518 Sealing the cans 520 Softening hard fruits 519 Using salicylic acid 520 Using sugar 519 Utensils used 529 Fruits and Vegetables. apples 521 apricots 522 asparagus 524 beans 524 beets 524 berries 520 blackberries 522 cabbage 524 carrots 524 cherries 523, 527 currants 521,526,527 corn 523 damsons 521 dewberries 521 Fruits and Vegetables (Contin- ued.) elderberries , . .521 fruit juices 525 grapes 522, 526 gooseberries 521, 526 greengages 521 huckleberries 522, 527 juneberries 522 lima beans 524 nectarines 523 peaches 523, 527 pears 527 pears 523, 521 pineapples 523 plums 521, 523 pumpkin 524 quinces 522 raspberries 521, 522, 527 rhubarb 522, 527 strawberries 522, 523, 527 succotash 525 tomatoes 525 Meat, Canning of 527, 528 Canning Without Syrup 526 Cold Process for Canning 526 CARVING. Beef 636,637 Calf's head 639 Capons 645 Cheese 648 Ducks 646, 647 Fish 647,648 Fowls 645 Goose 645 Ham 642 Lamb 641 Meat pies 648 Mutton 639to;642 Partridge 646 Pigeons 646 Pig, sucking 643 Plum pudding 648 Pork 642 Rabbit 644 Small birds 646 Snipe 646 Sweetbreads, etc 647 Tongue 636 Turkey 644,645 Veal 637 to 639 Venison 643 COLORS FOR FROSTINGS, CANDIES, ETC. A caution 392 I Various colors 392, 393 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 911 DESSERTS. Preliminary Hints. eggs, adding of 409 molds, use of 409 rennet, to prepare . . , 410 sour cream, to restore .... 409 , Air balls 416 Blanc mange, 7 recipes. 410, 411 Blanc mange, 5 recipes ..... 588 Charlotte russe 417 Cracker dessert 41 7 Creams, 7 recipes 415, 416 Custards 411 to 415 almond 413 apple 413 arrowroot 413 baked 412 banana 413 Bengal 413 boiled 412 chocolate 412,413 cocoanut 412, 413 corn=starch 412 float 414 fruit 413 lemon 414 ost kaka 414 rennet , 414 souffle 414 soft caramel 413 steamed 414 tapioca 415 tomato 415 various kinds 415 Floating island 417 Jelly and rice dessert 417 Kiss pudding 417 Layer pudding 417 Mock lemon jelly 418 Molded snow 418 Puffs, dessert 418, 424 Rice dessert, 3 recipes 418 Sago float 416 Scandinavian rogrod 418 Sponge biscuit for dessert . . 419 Fruit desserts 419 to 426 apple float 419 apple Kuclien 419 apple snow, 2 recipes .... 419 Fruit desserts (Continued.) banana dessert, 2 recipes. 420 berry dessert 420 bird's nest 421 cocoanut corn=starch 420 ^/^ flummery 423 French jellies 421 fruit cups 420 fruit desserts, 3 recipes 421, 422 fruit on toast 426 fruit puffs 424 fruit trifle 425 fruit whip 422 lemon cream 422 mock raspberries 425 mock strawberries 425 oranges and cocoanut .... 422 oranges and rhubarb 423 orange dressing 422 orange float 422 orange pudding 423 peaches and rice 423 pear meringue 423 pineapple pudding 424 prune whip 424 puffs, fruit 424 quince snow 424 raspberry snow 420 red currant snow 419 sago with fruit 424 snowed fruit 421 strawberry foam 424 strawberry snow 420 tapioca nut cream 421 tapioca with fruit 424 thickened cream 421 turon 425 tutti frutti 425 Gelatine preparations . . . 427 to 433 almond blanc mange 428 apples in jelly 428 bananas in jelly 428 calf's foot jelly.., 429 charlotte russe 429 chocolate charlotte russe. 428 chocolate cream 429 cider jelly 429 cocoanut cream 430 912 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT DESSERTS— Continued. Gelatine preparations (Contin- ued.) cofiPee jelly..... 429 English cream jelly .-429 frozen pudding 430 gooseberry cream 429 jelly of different colors . . . 428 lemon cream 430 lemon gelatine 429 lemon jelly, 2 recipes. .. .430 lemon whip 430 Macedonian jelly 431 mock ice 430 orange cream 431 orange dessert 431 Gelatine preparations (Contin- ued. ) orange jelly, 2 recipes. . . .431 peach cream 431 pineapple cream 431 pineapple jelly 432 prune jelly 432 rice cream 432 Russian cream 432 Russian jelly 432 snow pudding 433 Spanish cream 433 strawberry jelly 433 vanilla cream 433 velvet cream 433 DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS, ETC. Preliminary suggestions. dough, hints about 339 fat for frying 338 fat, to clarify . 338 kettle to use 338 Cannelons • 345 Crullers, 2 recipes 340 Doughnuts, 6 recipes . . 339, 340 Fried cakes, 2 recipes 341 Jolly boys 341 Fritters, batter for 342 apple 342 banana 342 berry 342 bread 343 cake 343 carrot 343 clam 343 Fritters (Continued.) corn 343 cornmeal 343 cream 343 fruit 343 jam 344 jelly 344 lemon 344 meat 344 orange 344 oyster 344 pork 344 potato 344 rice 345 salsify 345 tripe 344 various kinds 345 vegetable 345 EGGS. Eggs ....184 to 191 Anchovied eggs •. .190 Baked eggs 185 Boiling of eggs. . .114, 185, 186 Breakfast eggs 186 Cold fried eggs 187 Coloring and dying of eggs . 185 Creamed eggs 186 Curried eggs 186 Deviled eggs 187 Dropped eggs on toast 187 Egg gems 187 Fried eggs 187 Ham and eggs 190 Omelets, 8 recipes 188, 189 Omelet, beef ...130 Pickled eggs 534 Poached eggs 189 Poached in gravy 190 Scalloped eggs 190 Egg nests 188 Eggs on rice 190 Eggs on toast 191 Escalloped eggs 187 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 913 EGGS — Continued. Scotch eggs 191 Scrambled eggs 190 Shirred eggs 190 Snowed eggs 191 Spanish eggs 190 Steamed eggs 191 StufPed eggs 191 EXTRACTS AND FLAVORINGS. Allspice, essence of 355 Almond extract 355 Bedford flavoring 355 Celery, essence of 355 Cherry extract 350 OofPee extract 356 Curacoa 356 Curry powder 108 Flavoring sugar 393 Flavored vinegars 109. 110 Herb powder 108 Lemon extract 35() Laurel flavoring 356 Maraschino 356 Noyau 356 Orange extract 356 Orange flower water 358 Orange peel, to grate 358 Plum extract 356 Ragout powder 109 Ratafias 357 Rose extract 357 Rose water 356 Sassafras powder 109 Tea flavoring 357 Vanilla extract 357 Vanilla sugar 357 Vanilla syrup 357 Virginia flavoring 31 Zest 358 FISH AND FROGS. Au gratin, fish 57 Baking fish 55 Boning fish 49 Boiling fish .50, 53 Broiling fish 53 Broiled salt fish 54 Caviar 60 Cleaning fish 48 Cold fish, utilizing of 58 Creamed fish 58 Crimping of fish 60 Croquettes of fish .....* 181 Curry of fish 57 Escalloped fish 58. 59 Fillets of fish.. 56 Fish balls 57 Fish cakes 59 Fish chowder 58 Frying fish 54 Garnishing of fish 50, 630 Hints 49 Keeping fish 50 Marinade for fish 54 Methods of cooking fish 50 Muddy taste, to remove 49 Pickled fish 57 Pie, fish 59 Potted fish 59, 179 Redressed cold fish 59 Sauteing fish 55 Scaling fish 49 Skinning fish 49 Spiced fish 57 Steaming fish 52 Stewed fish 53 Stuffing for baked fish 56 Thawing when frozen 50 To freshen salt fish 49 Turbans of fish 57 Fishes, Cooking of 60 to 81 alewif e 60 anchovies 60 barbel 61 bass 61 blackfish 61 bleak 61 bloater 69 bluefish 62 914 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT FISH AND FROGS— Continued. Fishes, Cooking of (Continued.) bonito 62 bream 62 burbot 69 butterfish 62 carp 63 catfish 63 char 64 chub 64 coalfish 72 codfish 64 cod sounds 65 codfish tongues 65 cusk 69 dace 66 drum 66 eels 65 flounder 66 grayling 67 gudgeon 67 gurnard 67 haddock 67 hake 68 halibut 68 herring 69 lamprey 69 ling 69 mackerel 70 menhadden 70 mullet 70 muskellunge 71 perch 71 pickerel 71 pike 72 place 72 FisTies, Cooking of (Continued.) pollock 72 pompano 78 porgy , 72 ray 73 red snapper 72 roach 73 roes 73 salmon 74 sardines 75 scrod 65 scuppaug 76 shad .76 sheepshead 76 ' skate -.73 smelts 77 sole 77 sprats 78 squeteaque 78 sturgeon 78 suckers 78 sunfish • 79 swordfish 79 tautog 79 thornback 79 tomcods 65 trout 79 tunny 79 turbot ; 80 weakfish 81 whitebait 81 whitefish -.81 whiting 81 Frogs 66 SHELL-FISH — OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TURTLES, ETC. Clams, 6 recipes 82, 83 Crabs, 6 recipes 83, 84 Cray^fish, 3 recipes 84, 85 Lobsters 85 to 88 to kill 86 au gratin 86 broiled 86 buttered 86 canapes 86 coral 86 coral, substitute for 633 Lobsters (Continued.) creamed 87 croquettes 181 curry *. . . . 87 deviled 87 digestibility of . . ; 88 patties .87 stewed 87 Oysters 88 to 92 broiled 89 creamed 89 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 915 SHELL-FISH— OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TURTLES, ETC.— Continued. Oysters (Continued.) croquettes 181 deviled 89 digestibility of 92 escalloped 89 fricassee of 90 fried 89 fritters 90 on the half shell 90 and macaroni 90 omelet 90 panned 91 patties 91 pickled 91 Oysters (Continued.) pie.. 91 pigs in blanket 91 raw 91 smothered 92 steamed 92 stew 92 toast 92 unshelled 92 Prawns 85 Scallops 93 Shrimps 85 Terrapin 93 Turtles 93 FOREIGN COOKERY. English cookery 589 French cookery 589 to 592 German cookery 592 to 596 Italian cookery 596 to 598 Jewish cookery 602 Russian cookery 600, 601 Spanish cookery 598 to 600 Turkish cookery 601 FRUITS AND NUTS. Acids in fruits 165 About eating fruit 464 Apples 466, 501 Apricots 466,500 Bananas 466, 480 Barberry, the 507 Berries , 466 Bilberry, the 511 Blackberry, the 544 Blueberry, the 466 Cantelopes 468 Cherry, the. 325,467 Citron 475 Cocoanut, the 304, 467 Cranberry, the 494 Currants ....467,526 Dates 305,467 to prepare for cooking .... 349 Dewberry, the 521 Figs 467,486 Elderberry, the 545 Gooseberries 467, 481 Grapes 467, 510 Grape fruit 467 Guava 468 Huckleberry, the 527 Lemon, the 567 Lime, the 536 Mango 468 Mangostan 469 Melons 468, 476 Mulberry, the 468, 512 Olives 468 Oranges 423, 469 Peaches 469 Pears... 470, 483 Persimmons 470 Pineapples 445, 470 Plums 471,495,515 Pomegranate 471 Priekly pears 472 Raspberries 471, 552, 571 Rhubarb, origin, etc .484 Shaddock 467 Sloe 471 Strawberries 471, 504 Tamarind 472 Whortleberry, the 466 916 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT FRUITS AND NUTS— Continued. Compotes of Fruit 485 to 487 Cooked fruits 477 to 485 using sugar in cooking . . . 477 apples, 7 recipes 477, 478 apple butter 477 apple sauce, 5 recipes. . . .479 bananas, 3 recipes ........ 480 cranberry sauce 479, 480 damson sauce 483 date sauce 480 dried berries, stewed 481 fig sauce 481 gooseberry fool 481 gooseberry trifle 481 lemon butter 481 lemon jelly 481 quinces, 2 recipes 483 peaches, 3 recipes. . .481, 482 peach sauce 479 peaches, to skin 481 pears, 3 recipes 482 plum charlotte 483 prunes, 3 recipes 483 raising 484 rhubarb, butter 484 rhubarb, stewed 484 tamarind sauce 484 tomato butter 484 Dried fruits 473 to 476 apples 474 apples, to skin 474 blackberries 474 cherries 474 citron 475 cooking dried fruit 474 currants 475 gooseberries 475 keeping dried fruit 474 peaches 476 pears 474 pineapples 476 plums 476 quinces 474 watermelon rinds 476 Nuts 472 almond, the 321 almonds, glazed 473 almonds, salted 473 almonds, sugared 472 Brazil-nuts.': 472 chestnut, the 151 chestnuts, roasted 472 peanut, the 461 peanuts, salted 473 walnut, the 548 walnuts, salted 473 GARNISHING FOOD. Anchovies, for garnishing. . .633 Aspic jelly for garnishing. . . 633 Beefsteak 632 Bread crumbs, for garnish- ing 633 Bread, fried, for garnishing.. 633 Chops 632 Cold meats 633 Cutlets 632 Ducks 632 Entrees 633 Fish 630 Fowls 632 Game 632 Geese 632 Glaze, to make 633 Hash 633 Hints 633 Joints 631 Lemon, for garnishing 634 Lobsters 631 Lobster coral, substitute for 633 Oysters 631 Parsley, for garnishing 634 Roast beef 631 Roast lamb 632 Roast veal 631 Rump steak 631 Salads 633 Soup 629 Tongue 632 Turkey -.632 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 917 HASH AND CROQUETTES. Croquettes 179 to 182 baked 180 brain 180 chicken 180 chicken and oyster .... . . 180 fish 181 hominy 181 kouftas 183 kromeskies 182 lobster 181 meat 181 oyster 181 potato 182 rice 181 Scotch collops 182 Croquettes (Continued.) veal 181 HASH 176 to 178 baked 177 corned beef 177 French ..177 garnishing of , . . .' 633 ham 177 pie ....178 pilafP 179 Scotch 177 turkey 178 veal 178 vegetable 178 Scrapple 178 ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS. Frappes 444 Granites 444 Ice cream 434 to 443 arrowroot for 434 canned fruits for 435 coloring of 437 condensed milk for 434 cream for 434 freezing the cream 435 ice for 434 molds for 437 packing down 436 principles involved in mak- ing 436 salt for 435 sugar for ^ 434 syrup for . 437 Ice Creams. almond 440 baked apple 440 banana 440 bisque 440 brown bread 441 burnt almond 440 caramel 440 chocolate 441 coffee 441 Ice Creams (Continued.) frozen fruit 443 fruit. _ 441 fruit juice 441 fruit molds 443 gelatine 441 iced strawberry pudding. . 443 lemon 441 macaroon 441 macedoines 442 mousse 443 Neapolitan ice cream, 4 recipes 438 nesselrode pudding 442 nut 442 orange 442 pineapple 442 pistachio 442 Philadeliohia ice cream, 3 recipes 438 tea 441 tutti frutti 442 vanilla 442 Sherbets 444,445 Sorbets 446 Water ices 444, 445 918 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT INVALID COOKERY. Appetite, the 579 Apple water 583 Arrowroot 585 Asses' milk 585 Barley water 583 Beef juice 582 Beef tea 582,583 Beef tea, value of 577 Bilious tendency 579 Blanc mange, 5 recipes 588 Bread jelly 576 Broth, 2 recipes 581 Broth, value of 578 Buttermilk, use of 577 Cocoa, for invalids 579 Coffee, for invalids 579 Consumptive tendency 579 Cream, use of 577 Diet, its importance 580 Elm jelly 587 Egg drinks, 3 recipes 584 Eggs for invalids 582 Eggs, use of 577 Essence of meat 581, 582 Fats and oils 580 Fats for the system 577 Fat, to remove from broth . . 581 Fever cases 576 Fine flour bread 578 Flaxseed tea 584 Flour, baked or boiled 586 Frangipane 586 Goat's milk 585. Goat's mitk, artificial 585 Gout 589 Gruels, 7 recipes 586, 587 Iceland moss 588 Jellies 587,588 Jelly, gelatine and isinglass . 578 Juice of fruits 579 Lemonade, hot ^ 583 Licorice tea 584 Lime 580 Lime water 584 Linseed tea 584 Meat patty ' 582 Milk porridge 587 Mutton, toasted 582 Oatmeal jelly 587 Panada, cracker 588 Porridge 587 Rennet whey 584 Restorative jelly 587 Rice and milk 585 Rice jelly 587 Rice water 583 Sandwiches, raw beef 582 Scrofulous diseases 580 Sippets 586 Slippery elm tea 584 Soup, milk 581 Steak, broiled 582 Stomach and bowel disorder.576 Suet and milk 586 Swiss cream 585 Tapioca jelly 587 Tea, for invalids 579 Toast, milk or cream 586 Toast, value of 578 Toast, water 583 Vegetables, for invalids 579 Wine jelly 588 Whey," use of 577, 584 Wine whey . 584 JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES AND FRUIT CHEESES. General suggestions ; 488 coloring preserves, etc. . . .490 keeping preserves, etc . . . 490 mold, what it is 490 pectose in fruits 489 principles involved 489 General suggestions (Con- tinued.) putting in jars. 490 the sugar used 488 the water used 489 utensils used 489 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 919 JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES AND FRUIT CHEESES— Continued. Fruit cheeses, 4 recipes, 499, 500 Fruit pastes, 8 recipes 500 to 502 Jams 502 to 504 apple ginger 502 apple jam 502 barberry jam 503 blackberry jam 502 cherry jam 503 currant jam 503 gooseberry jam 503 grape jam 503 quince jam 504 pineapple jam 503 pineapple parings, to uti- lize. 503 plum jam 503 raspberry jam 504 rhubarb jam 504 strawberry jam , 504 tomato jam 504 vegetable marrow jam. . . .504 Jellies 491 to 49G Hardening jelly 492 Jelly bags 492 Making jelly 491 Removing jelly from a glass 492 Testing jelly 492 apple jelly 493 blackberry jelly 493 cherry jelly 493 crab apple jelly 493 cranberry jelly 493 currant jelly. 493 damson jelly 495 dried apple jelly 493 gooseberry jelly 495 grape jelly 495 guava jelly 494 mango jelly 495 quince jelly 495 peach jelly 495 pear jelly 495 plum jelly 495 plum and apple 493 raspberry jelly 493 rhubarb jelly 496 Jellies (Continued.) strawberry jelly 493 tutti frutti jelly 496 various jellies 493 wild plum jelly 496 Marmalades 496 to 499 making marmalade 496 testing marmalade 496 apple marmalade 497, 498 apricot marmalade 497 blackberry marmalade .... 498 crab apple marmalade .... 498 grape marmalade 497 orange marmalade 497 quince marmalade . . . 497, 498 peach marmalade 497 pear marmalade 497 plum marmalade 498 raspberry marmalade 498 rhubarb marmalade 497 strawberry marmalade .... 498 tomato marmalade 499 various fruit marmalades . 497 vegetable marrow 499 Preserves 505 to 517 Canned fruit for preserves . . 505 Cooking the fruit 505 Graining of syrup 506 Hardening fruit 505 Keeping preserves 505 Syrup for preserves 506 Time to boil fruits 506 apple preserves 506 apricot preserves .... 507, 514 barberry preserves 507 bilberry preserves 511 blackberry preserves .... 507 cantelope, preserved 517 cherry preserves 508 citron preserves 508 crab apple preserves 507 cranberry preserves 509 cumant preserves .... 508, 509 damson preserves 511 dewberry preserves 508 fig preserves 509 920 INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPARTMENT JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES AND FRUIT CHEESES— Continued. Preserves (Continued.) ginger preserves 510 gooseberry preserves 510 greengage preserves 511 grape preserves 510 huckleberry preserves .... 511 lemon preserves 512, 518 limes, preserved 513 nectarine preserves 514 orange preserves 513 mulberry preserves . . muskmelon preserves 512 512 Preserves (Continued.) peach preserves 518, 514 pear i3reserves 514 pineapple preserves 514 plum preserves 515 pumpkin preserves 515 quince preserves 516 raspberry preserves 516 strawberry preserves 515 tomato figs 509 tomato preserves 516 watermelon, preserved .... 517 MEATS, GAME, POULTRY. Baking meats 112 Barding 122 Basting 112 Boiling meat 113 Boning meat 122 Braising 120 Broiling meat Ill Burning fat 125 Canning meat 527, 528 Cold meat 125 Daubing 122 Drippings 123 Fats and oils 117 Fat, to clarify .118 Flour, to brown 127 Fricasseeing 116 Frozen meat, to thaw 125 Frying 116 Garnishing meat 127, 631 Glazing 122, 633 Gravy, to make 125 Grilling Ill Larding 121 Odor of boiling, to overcome 125 Meat pie 153 Meat pies, dangerous gases in 153 Potted meat ^ 179 Preserving of meat 185 Ragouts 116 Roasting meat 112 Salt, its action on meat 124 Salt meat, to cook 114 Sauteing 119, 121 Steaming 120 Stewing meat 114 Tainted meat 149 Thermometers, use of 123 Tough meat, to make tender 124 To Egg and Bread-crumb . . . 122 Washing meat 124 Water, use of hard and soft . 124 BEEF 127 to 135 a la mode 130 balls 128 cheese 128 daube 128 beefsteak, 7 recipes. .138, 184 boiled dinner 184 chipped beef 128 corned beef 128 deviled beef 128 dried beef 128 dried beef relish 129 fillet of beef 129 frizzled beef 129 Hamburg steak 134 heart, to cook 129 hunter's beef 129 kidneys, to cook 180 liver, 2 recipes 180 location of parts in beef . . 165 minced beef 134 mock duck 130 mock sausage 135 ' INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 921 MEATS, GAME, POULTRY—Continued. BEEF (Continued.) omelet, beef 130 pot pie 131 pot roast 131 pressed beef 131 roast beef 132 roast ribs of beef 132 Salisbury steak 133 sausage roll 135 spiced beef .■ . 132 tongue, broiled 132 tripe 133 Yorkshire pudding 132 MUTTON AND LAMB. .140 to 143 kid, to cook 143 lamb, escalloped 143 lamb's fry 169 lamb, grilled 143 lamb, leg of . , . , . . .141 lamb's liver, curried 143 lamb pie . 141 mutton and rice 141 mutton and tomatoes 142 mutton, boiled 140 mutton chops 141 mutton ham 141 mutton patties 141 mutton pies 141 mutton rechauffe 142 Irish stew 142 location of parts in mutton 168 roly poly 143 scrambled mutton 142 Scotch stew 142 sheep's brains 143 tongues, boiled 142 PORK « 141 to 148 brawn 148 chines 145, 146 cooking of pork 146 cutlets 146 fried salt jDork 147 ham, 5 recipes 144, 145 ■ head cheese 148 location of parts in pork . . 167 pig's feet, boiled 145 pig, roast 145 pork and eggs 146 57 PORK (Continued.) pork, rechauffe 146 roast pork 145 salt pork dinner 147 pork steaks 146 spare-ribs 145 Sausages, to cook 148 Souse, 2 recipes 147 Worst, pork 148 VEAL 135 to 140 breakfast veal 136 calf's brains 136 cheese, veal 128 creamed veal 136 cutlets, breaded 136 fillet, roast 137 liver, fried 136 liver, stewed 137 _ location of parts in veal. . .166 mayonnaise 137 molded veal 137 old veal 135 pot^pie 137 pot'pie crust 138 roast veal pie 138 scalloped veal 138 smothered veal 139 spiced veal 139 veal and ham pie 138 veal loaf 137 veal stew 139 veal toast 139 Sweetbreads, 3 recipes. 139, 140 GAME 158 to 164 Garnishing for game . . . 159, 632 Keeping game 159 Tainted game, to restore .... 159 Wild flavor in, to overcome . 159 bear 164 black=bird pie 160 buffalo 164 cranes 159 duck, wild 160 grouse 163 herons 159 opossum 163 partridges 160 pigeons, to cook. 159, 160, 161 922 INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPARTMENT MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— Continued. GAME (Continued.) plovers 159, 161 prairie chickens 159, 162 quails 159, 162 rabbits 168 raccoons 164 small birds 162 snipes, to cook 159, 162 squabs 161 squirrels 164 venison 164 woodchucks 164 woodcocks 159, 162, 168 POULTRY 148 to 158 Boned poultry 150 Breakfast dish, a .' . . 158 Dressing for poultry 150 Onions, use of 149 Strong smell, to overcome. ..149 Stuffing for poultry . . . 150, 151 Tainted meat 149 Chicken and oysters 152 and rice 153 and tomatoes 154 boiled 151 cheese 152 POULTRY (Continued.) Chicken, loaf 152 escalloped 152 fricassee 151 patties 152 pie .153 gases in chicken pie 158 pressed • . 158 shortcake 154 supreme 154 tarts 154 Ducks , 156 Fowls, fried 154 garnishing, fowls 149, 632 minced 155 rechauffe 155 steamed 155 to make old tender 155 to draw 149 to truss 150 Guinea fowls 155 Geese 156 Giblets 155 Giblet gravy 157 Turkey, 4 recipes 157, 158 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS. Beef, Hamburg 172 parts in 165 spiced corn 171 to corn 171 to cure 170 to dry 172 Bladders, to prepare 178 Curing meat 170 Hams, 4 recipes 170, 171 Lamb, to cut up 169 Lard, to keep sweet 175 Lard, to make 175 Mutton, parts in 168 Pickle for meat . . .169, 171, 178 Pig's feet, pickle for 173 Pork, cutting up 167 Pork, parts in 167 Rennet, to prepare 173 Sausages, to make 173, 174 Smoking meat 174 Suet 175 Tallow, to clarify 175 Rennet, to prepare 173 Sausages, to make 173, 174 Smoking meat 174 Suet 175 Tallow, to clarify 175 Tongues, to cure 172, 173 Tripe, to clean 173 Veal, parts in 166 Venison, to cut up 169 INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPARTMENT 923 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE. Butter 193 to 197 anchovy 291 clarified or ghee 194 mustard 291 fats, a word about 195 rancid 196 substitutes for 194, 195 to cream 317 to keep hard 197 to keep sweet 196 to make quickly 193 to salt 194 various butters ...... .99, 100 washing of 194 Butterine 194 Oleomargarine 194 Cheese 197 to 202 and macaroni 200 boiled 199 cottage 199 cheese crackers 202 cream 199 Devonshire cream 199 Cheese (Continued.) cheese fondue 200 fritters 199 home scallop 200 Italian curds 200 mode of serving 198 Parmesan 198 polpetti 200 potted 201 smear case 201 straws 201 rennet for 198 welsh rarebit 201 with potatoes 243 with rice 248 with toast 201 Milk..... 192 to 193 buttermilk 193 cream, substitute for ....317 canned or condensed 192 solidified 192 sour 193 sugar of 192 PASTRY— PIES, SHORTCAKES, TARTS. Pastry 295 to 314 Baking tins for pastry 298 Butter for pastry 297 Cornmeal for pastry 300 Doree 300 Flour for pastry 295 Gilding 300 Meringue 300 Method of making paste . . . 295 Oven, the 298 Paste, 4 recipes for making . 301 Principles involved in mak- ing 299 The two crusts 298 To prevent juice from run- ning out 299 Pies, crust for, 2 recipes .... 301 time to bake 302 apple, 6 recipes for 302 apple cobler 309 banana 303 carrot 303 Pies (Continued.) cherry, 3 recipes 303 chocolate 303 cocoanut, 2 recipes . . 303, 304 corn^starch 304 cream, 4 recipes 304, 305 currant 305 custard, 3. recipes. . . .305, 306 date 305 elderberry 306 fish 59 fried 306 fruit 306 gooseberry 306 grape 306 hash 178 hickory^nut 306 huckleberry 307 lemon, 2 recipeo 307 mince, 6 recipes 307, 308 orange, 2 recipes 308 oyster 91 924 INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPAETMENT PASTRY — PIES, SHORTCAKES, TARTS— Continued. Pies (Continued.) peach 309 pear 309 pineapple 309 potato 309 prune 310 pumpkin, 2 recipes 310 raisin 310 rice 311 rhubarb 310 squash 311 Pies (Continued.) strawberry 311 ' sweet potato 310 tomato 311 transparent 311 vinegar 311 Washington 311 Shortcakes, 10 recipes. 313, 314 Tarts 306 Tarts, 7 recipes 312, 313 PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, SPICED FRUIT. Catsups o4G to 548 apple 546 cherry 546 crab apple 546 cucumber 546 currant 546 elderberry 547 gooseberry' 547 grape 547 lemon 547 mushroom 547 oyster 547 pepper 548 tomato 548 walnut 548 Pickles 530 to 544 A caution 530 Alum, use of 530 Brine for pickles 531 Coloring pickles 530 Keeping pickles 531 Kettle, the, to use 531 Parboiling 530 Spices 531 The vinegar 530 Sour pickles 531 to 540 artichokes 532 beans 532 beans, in salt 533 beets 531 butternuts 539 cabbage 532 carrots 532 cauliflower 532 Sour pickles (Continued.) celery 532 cherries 532 chili sauce 539 . chow chow 540 cucumbers, 6 recipes 533,534, 535 cucumbers, salted 534 corn 533 eggs 534 French pickles 539 gherkins 534 Jersey pickles 535 lemons 535 limes 535 martynias 536 mango , 536, 537 mixed pickles 536 mushroom 537 mustard 637 nasturtium 537 onions 538 ornamental pickles 539 oysters 538 parsley 538 peppers 538 piccalilli 538 Russia pickles 539 tomato 538, 539 turnips 539 walnuts 539 Sweet pickles .540 to 544 method of making 541 apples 541 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 925 PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, SPICED FRUIT— Continued. Sweet pickles (Continued.) beets 541 blackberries 541 blueberries 541 cabbage 541 cantelope 541 cauliflower . .• 542 cherries 542 citron 544 crab apples 541 cucumber 542 figs 542 grapes 542 Sweet pickles (Continued.) peaches 543 pears 543 pineapple 543 plums 542 quinces 543 raisins 543 raspberries 541 strawberries 541 tomato, 3 recipes 543 watermelon rind 544 Soys, 6 recipes 548, 549 Spiced fruit, 1 1 recipes .... 544, 545 How to plan. PICNICS. 603 I Things to carry , PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS. .603 Dumplings, 6 recipes 336, 337 Pandowdy 337 Puddings, baking of 316 boiling of 316 cloth for 315 creaming butter for 317 steaming of 316 almond 321 apple 321 apple, Indian 322 berry 322 bird's nest 322 black 322 bread, 4 recipes 323 bread crumb 322 cake, 3 recipes 323, 324 California 324 canned 324 charlotte 324 cherry 325 chocolate 324 Christmas 325 cocoanut 325 corn 229, 326 corn=starch 326 cottage, 3 recipes 326 cracked wheat 327 cracker 326 Puddings (Continued.) cranberry 326 date 327 Delmonico 327 Dover 327 English 327 farina 328 feather 328 fig 328 fruit 328, 331 ginger 328 gold 329 gooseberry 328 graham 329, 331 Hanover 329 huckleberry 329 iced strawberry 443 Indian, 5 recipes .... 329, 330 lemon, 2 recipes 330 Lowell 330 minute 330, 331 nesselrode 442 orange . 331 Oxford 331 peach, 2 recipes 331 plum, 2 recipes 332 potato 331 princess 332 926 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS— Continued. Puddings (Continued.) prune 332 pufe ..332 queen 332 raisin 333 raspberry 333 ratafia 333 rhubarb 333 rice, 3 recipes 334, 335 roly poly 334 sago 334, 335 sponge 334 steamed 335 suet, 2 recipes 334 tapioca, 4 recipes .... 334, 335 whortleberry 335 Pudding sauces 317 to 321 acid 317 berry 318 brown 318 caramel 317 caramel syrup 317 cider 318 cream 318 cream, substitute for 317 Pudding sauces (Continued.) delicate 318 Dutch 318 egg 318 foaming 318 fruit juice 319 golden 319 jelly .'....319 lemon, 3 recipes ........ .319 lombard 319 maple 319 maple sugar 319 milk 320 mock whipped cream ..... 360 molasses 320 orange 320 pineapple 320 plain 320 plum, 2 recipes 320 sweet ..320 vanilla 319, 320 vinegar 321 whipped cream 318 white 321 SALADS. Introductory explanations. Oils, to use 203 To fringe celery 204 To marinate salads 204 Salad dressings 204 to 206 boiled dressing 205 cream dressing 205 dressing without oil 205 egg dressing 205 French dressing 204 mayonnaise dressing 204 Swiss dressing 205 Salads. aguacate 213 apple 213 asparagus 206 barberry 214 beef 211 beet 206 boiled 206 Salads (Continued.) cabbage 206 carrot 206 cauliflower 206 celery ...'..207 cheese 212 cheese and egg 212 chervil [[ . . 208 chicken 211 chicory 207 cold slaw 206 cold slaw, dressing for .... 207 crab ^ 212 cranberry 214 currant 214 creamy 207 cream slaw 207 cucumber 208 dandelion 208 egg 212 INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPAKTMENT 927 SALADS— Continued. Salads (Continued.) endive , 207 escarole 207 f etticus 208 fish 212 French fruit 214 fruit 213 gelatine 210 gooseberry 214 grape fruit 214 ham..... 211 hot slaw 207 in jelly 209 lamb 211 lamb's lettuce 208 lemon 214 lettuce 208 lime 215 lobster 212 melon 214 nut 215 okra 208 orange 214 oyster 212 Salads (Continued.) peppers 208 potato 209 red vegetable 210 Russian 209 salmon 213 salsify 209 sardine 213 shrimp 213 slaws 206, 207 spinach 209 string bean 206 sweetbread 211 sweet potato 210 summer 209 tomato 210 tongue 211 various vegetable 210 veal .....211 walnut 215 water cress 210 watermelon 214 winter 210 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS. Coloring for sauces 96 Herbs, etc 95 Roux, to make 97 Thickening for sauces 95 The utensils used in making- sauce 95 Flavored vinegars 109, 110 Sauces. Anchovy sauce. , 99 Aspic jelly 98 Bechamel sauce 99 Bordeaux sauce 98 Bread sauce 98 Brown sauce 99 Butters, 6 recipes 99, 100 Caper sauce 100 Capers, mock 100 Cauliflower sauce 100 Celery sauce 100 Chestnut sauce 101 Chutnee sauce 101 Cranberry sauce 102 _ Cream sauce 101 Cucumber sauce 101 Currant sauce 101 Curry powder 108 Curry sauce 102 Drawn butter sauce 99 Egg sauce 102 Fennel sauce 102 Fish sauce 102 Herb powder for flavoring. . . 108 Hollandaise sauce 102 Horseradish sauce 102 Lemon sauce 103 Lobster sauce 103 Mandram sauce 103 Matelote sauce 103 Milk sauce 104 Mint sauce 104 Miss Maitland's mayonnaise 104 Mushroom sauce 104 Mustard, 4 recipes 104, 105 928 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL-FISH AND MEATS- Continued. Navy sauce 105 Nut sauce 105 Olive sauce 105 Onion sauce 106 Oyster sauce 106 Parsley sauce 106 Pepper sauce 106 Pickle sauce 106 Potato sauce 106 Raisin sauce 106 Ragout powder 109 Sassafras powder 109 Sauce piquante 106 Sauce Robert 106 Sauce supreme 107 Sauce tartare 107 Sauce Velont6 107 Shrimp sauce 106 Tartar sauce 107 Tomato sauce 107 Walnut sauce 108 White sauce , 99 Worcestershire sauce . . 107, 108 SOUPS. Broth 24 Browned crackers 31 Caramel for soup 31 Clarifying soup 27 Colorings for soup 28 Croutons '. . . . 29 Egg^balls 31 Fat, to remove from soup .... 22 Fish stock 27 Flavorings 23 Forcemeat 29 Hints 24, 27 Lobster butter 28 Noodles 29 Onions, use of 23 Principles involved in mak- ing 20 Quenelles 28 Salt, to modify taste of 24 Seasonings 24 Soup'boquet 30 Soup^bunch 30 Stock 21, 24, 27 Suet dumplings 29 Thickening 30 Utensils used 19 Veal stock 26 Virginia flavoring 31 Soups. alma mata 39 almond 32 asparagus 32 barley 32 Soups (Continued.) bean, 3 recipes 32 beef 39' bisque of lobster 45 Boston 45 bouillon 39 cabbage 33 carrot 33 celery 33 chicken 40 chicken and gumbo 40 clam 46 clam chowder 46 clear 40 salt codfish 46 Canadian pea 36 consomme 41 green corn 33 cream celery 33 cucumber 34 duchess 41 egg 41 every-dny 41 fish ....' 46 Flemish 34 Florence . . 42 game 42 gumbo 34 hotch-potch 42 Italian 34 Julienne 35 macaroni 37 meat broth 42 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 929 SOUPS — Continued. Soups (Continued.) mock bisque 35 mock turtle 38, 44 mullagatawny 43 mushroom 35 mutton broth 43 noodle 35 okra 34 onion 36 oxtail 43 oyster 47 Palestine 36 pea 36 potato 37 pumpkin 36 Soups (Continued.) rabbit 44 rice 37 sago 37 semolina 37 Spanish 47 tapioca 37 tomato 37, 38 turkey 44 veal 45 vegetable marrow 38 vermicelli 37 Victoria 38 white 39 TABLES. Nutriment in foods ..... 7 to 10 Table of proportions 17 Time for cooking 14 to 16 Weights and measures. . 11 to 13 THE TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. Breakfast table 655 Breakfast, serving of 657 Dinner 649 Dinner, serving of 653 Dinner table, setting of 649 Plans of Set Tables. .650 to 656 Napkins, folding of 663 to 669 Table decorations 659 to 663 TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON. Different foods ...... 604 to 606 | In season by months , 607 to 610 VEGETABLES. How to boil 217, 219 Odor of boiling, to overcome 218 Principles involved in boil- ing 218 Time to boil 218 To restore their freshness . . . 220 Washing of 219 Water, effects of different kinds 219 Artichokes, 4 recipes. . . 220, 221 Asparagus, 4 recipes. . .221, 222 Beans, 5 recipes 222, 223 Beets, 3 recipes 223, 224 Brocoli 226 Brussels sprouts, 2 recipes . . 224 Cabbage, 5 recipes 224, 225 Cardoon, the 221 Carrots, 2 recipes 227 Cauliflower, 2 reciioes 226 Celery 227,228 Colcannon 225 Corn, 10 recipes 228, 229 Cucumbers, 3 recipes 230 Egg plant 231 Endive 231 Greens 231 Greens, beet 224 Kohlrabi 232 Lettuce, 2 recipes 232, 233 Macaroni, 5 recipes 233 930 INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPARTMENT VEGETABLES— Continued. Mushrooms 234 to 236 Okra ....236 Onions, 6 recipes 237. 238 odor of, to overcome 237 to peel 237 Spanish 238 Parsley.. 240 fried 634 Parsnips, 4 recipes 238, 239 Peas 239, 240 Potatoes, a la maitre d'hotel . 244 and eggs 244 baked 242 balls 242 boiled 241 Boston chips 243 broiled... 242 cake 242 creamed 243 escalloped 243 fried 244 frozen 241 Lyonnaise 244 mashed 244 pufie 245 quirled 245 salted 245 Saratoga 243 solanine, in 246 stew 245 stufPed 245 turnovers 245 warmed in gravy. 244 Potatoes (Continued.) warmed over '. . 246 with cheese 243 Pulses, the 223 Pumpkins 247 Eadishes 249 Rice, 4 recipes 248 Salsify, 3 recipes 249 Sauerkrout 250 Sea^kale 249 Scotch=kale. 249 Spaghetti 233 Spinach 250 Squash, 4 recipes 251 Succotash 229 Sweet potatoes, 6 recipes, 246,247 Tomatoes and cream 252 baked 251 canned 253 croutes 252 escalloped 252 fried 253 raw 252 salted 253 stewed 253 stuffed 251 toast 253 with macaroni 253 Turnips, 3 recipes 254 Vermicelli 233 Yams, 2 recipes 254, 255 VINEGAR. Vinegars 550 to 553 Aromatic vinegar 553 Flavored vinegar 109, 110 Mother of vinegar 550 Spiced vinegar 553 To make, 16 recipes . . 551 to 553 THE CHAFING DISH. Asparagus 895 Beef, dried ...890 Beefsteak and onions 889 Beefsteak, broiled 889 Beans, 2 recipes 895 Calf's brains, creamed 890 Calf's liver and bacon 890 Cheese f ondu 897 Cheese with eggs 897 Chicken and oysters 890 Clams, creamed 892 Chops, lamb 889 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 931 THE CHAFING DISH— Continued. Ood, salt, creamed Corn, canned Crabs, 4 recipes Curry stew Egg and anchovy toast . boiled creamed cupped curried . ., fried scrambled sauce on toast English monkey Fish, creamed with sauce piquante Fowl, re= warmed Frogs' legs Game, re= warmed Halibut steaks Lamb chops Lobster Lobster, 3 recipes , Meats 889 to creamed cold , deviled re-warmed Mushrooms, braised Omelets 891 895 893 889 894 894 894 894 894 895 895 891 895 897 891 891 ,889 894 891 889 893 894 890 896 895 Onions, fried 895 Oysters, 6 recipes 892 Oysters and chicken 890 Paprica 891 Pancakes 897 Peas, fresh green 896 Potatoes, 5 recipes 896 Potatoes, sweet 896 Sardines 891 Sauces 890, 891 deviled 890 egg 891 piquante 891 white 891 Scallops, 2 recipes 893 Shrimps, 2 recipes 893 Smelts, fried 893 Succotash 895 Sweetbreads, 2 recipes 890 Tomatoes, creamed ........ 897 deviled 896 fried ._ ..897 Tripe with onions 890 Trout, brook 892 Venison steaks 889 White fish, boiled 892 White sauce 891 Welsh rarebit 897 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. ^^CCOUNT book, keeping i*l- of 675 1^ Acetic acid 829 Acid stains 830 Acid, test for 691 Air, hints, about 708, 704 Alabaster 735 Albumen 20 Albumen, stains from 830 Alcohol 829 Alizarine stains 880 Alkaline stains 880 Alkali, test for 691 Allspice 855 Alum 846 Alum water, to make 855 Aluminum 673, 749 Altering recipes 18 Amber, hints about 781 Ammonia, uses of, etc 829 Aniline stains 880 Anthrenus varins 849 Ants, to exterminate . . . 848, 849 Arrowroot, origin, etc 585 Arsenic in wall paper 809 Aspic jelly 98 BACTERIA 518 Bain-marie 115 Baking dishes, care of 681 Baking powder 265 Barding 122 Barrel, garbage 686 Barrels, to clean 816 Baseboards, painting of 720 Basil, the 28 Baths, care of 726, 727 Bay, the 45 Beans, weevils in 854 Beaver 826 Bedbugs 849 Beds, hints about. . . .700 to 702 Bedroom, the, hints about . . 700 Bed ticks, to clean 873 Beer, stains from 881 Bees 849 Beetles 850 Benzine 829 Benzine coUas 829 Benzole 829 Bisulphide of carbon . . 849, 854 Bites of insects 850 Blacking, for shoes, etc. 812, 814 Blacking, for stoves 760 Black reviver 887 Bleaching 824, 861, 874 Bleaching powder 706 Blood, stains from 831 Bluing, for clothes 860, 861 Blue vitriol 708 Board floors 711, 712 Boiled dinner 184 Bone, hints about 781, 732 Bonnets, hints about . . . 824, 825 Books, hints about 805, 806 Boots, care of 812 to 814 Borax 846 Bottles, hints about 744, 745 Brackets, to clean 752 Braising 120 Brass and copper for cooking 673 Brass, hints about . . . 749 to 751 Brawn 148 Brioches 275 Bristle4ail 850 Brittania metal 751 Bronze, hints about 751 Brooms, care of 676 Brownstone 785 Buckskin gloves 823 Buffalo moth 851 Bullock's gall 717,830 Burning buildings 763 Burners, lamp 747 932 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 933 Burnett's disinfecting fluid . .707 I^ABBAGE worms 850 \\\ Cake tins, care of.... 681 *^ Calcimine .767 Candles, hints about 749 Candlesticks, care of 749 Cannelons 345 Capers 100 Capsicum, the 537 Carafes 743 Caramel 31, 263, 317, 450 Caramel, x^repared 393 Caramel syrup 317 ^--"^arbolic acid 705 Carbonic acid gas in wells . . 688 Carbonic acid, test for 691 Carpet=beetle, the 851 Carpets 716 to 720 acids on 719 beating of 716 cleaning of 717, 718 grease on 718 gum on 719 ink on, to remove 718 insects in 720 laying of 719 oil on 719 paint on 719 soot, to remove 718 spots on 719 stair 719 sugar on, to remove 71 8 sweeping of 716 varnish on 719 wax on 719 whitewash on 719 Cashmere 872 Casks, to clean 815 Cassava 335 Catch basins, care of 684 Caterpillars 850 Caviar 60 Ceilings, smoked 748 Cellars, care of 684 Cellar windows 685 Celery, to fringe 204 Celluloid 732 Cements, various kinds 837 to 840 Chair seats, cane 724 Chamois skin 811, 812 Chandeliers 752" Charcoal 706,846 Chemical heater 763 Chenille, to clean 873 Chervil 208 Chicory..... 207,562 Chimneys, hints about. 763, 764 China, hints about 743 Chinchilla 827 Chintz 724, 823 Chive, the •... 24 Chloride of lead 709 Chloride of lime 685, 706 Chloride of zinc 707 Chloroform.. _ 829 Chocolate stains 831 Choke damp 688 Chromos, hints about 802 Cider casks 815 Cinnamon 348 Cisterns, hints about 689 Citric acid ...829^^ Cleaning compounds . . .836, 837 Clinkers in stoves 761 ^ Cloth, hints about. . .818 to 822^ Clothing, hints about 818 to 822--^ Clothing, men's 820^-^ Clothes wringers 861 Clove, the 98 Coat collars, to clean 874 Coblers ...309 Cockroaches 851 CofPee^pots 682 Coffee, stains from 831 Coins, to clean 752 Collars, coat, to clean 874 Collops, Scotch 182 Colors, injured, to restore 828, 829 Colors, to set 874 Compotes 485 to 487 Condiments 97 Condy's fluid 707 Cooking in high altitudes . . 358 Copperas 708 Copper, to clean 751, 752 Copying paper 845 Coral 759 Corks, hints about 745 934 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX Cornices, gilt, to clean 810 Corn^starch 826 Corrosive sublimate 707 Cottolene 119 Cotosuet 119 Crape, hints about 872 Cream, mock whipped 360 Cream of tartar 350 Cream, substitute for 317 Crickets 852 Crockery, ornamented 746 Croton bugs 851 Croutons 29 Cruets 744 Cups, discolored 743 Curry powder 108 Curtains, to clean, etc . . 869, 870 Vt^ATES, to prepare for 1^1 cooking 349 ^^^ Daubing 122 Death watch 852 Decanters 743, 744 Deodorizers 710 Dextrin 263,289,578 Diamonds, to clean 759 Dishwashing 676 to 678 Disinfectants. . .704 to 710, 847 Doors, hints about 695 Door plates, to clean. . .695, 752 Dor6e 300 Double boiler, the 673 Drain pipe, care of 683 Drawers 727 Dressers, wooden, to clean . . 675 Dress mending 822 Dust, stains from 831 Dusting, hints about 699 Dyes, vegetable, stains of . . . 835 EtAETHEN WARE. 743, 746 1^ Earwigs 852 ^ Ebonized floors 715 Ebonizing wood 715, 731 Ebony 729 Egg, yolk of 830 Elderberry, the 545 Egg and Bread^crumbing . . . 122 Emeralds, to clean 759 Emery, flour of 847 Enameling floors 715 Enamels for shirts 864 Endive 207 Engravings, hints about 803, 804 Ermine 827 Eschalot, the 24 Escarole 207 Ether 829 Exterminators for insects . . . 855 EAGGOTS 166 Fats and oils 117 Fat, to clarify 117, 118, 338 Feathers, hints about 816 to 818 Felt hats 825 Fenders 761 Fennel, the 102 Fetticus 208 Files, to clean 754 Filter, to make 692 Fires, hints about 762, 763 Fire kindlers 763 Fire grenades 763 Fireproof solution 763 Flannels, to wash 864, 869 Flat^rons 863 Fleas 852 Flies, to exterminate 852 Floors,wood,hints about711to716 cleaning wood 711, 712 cracks in, to stop 713 ebonized 715 enameled 715 grease on 712 hall 715 ink on 712 musty 712 oil on 712 oiled 715* paint for 715 polished 714 sand for 711 sawdust for cleaning 713 sizing for 715 soap for 711 soot on 713 stains for 714 stained 713 stains on. 711, 712 tiled 723 to keep ground dry 716 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 935 Floors, varnish for ......... 714 waxed 713 whitewash on .712 Flour, pastry 347 Flour, to brown 127 Fly-paper, to make 853 Fondant 451 Fondue 200 Forks, care of, etc 678, 679 Forcemeat 29 Frames, for pictures . . . 802, 803 Freezing mixtures 687 French polish 728, 730 Fruit, stains of 831 Fruit trees, insects in 855 Frying-pans, care of . . . 680, 681 Furnace pipes 762 Fur, hints about 826 to 828 Furniture 723 to 728 bruises in 727 cane chair seats 724 care of 723 chintz on 724 chips broken from 727 dark stains on 725 dull, to restore 724 dusting of 724 ebonized 725 filling for 727 finger marks on 725 hair cloth on 724 ink stains on 726 insects in 727 leather chair seats 724 mahogany 725, 726 moths in 724 oiled walnut 725 polishes for 728 rosewood 726 satin 724 scratched 724 scratches on '. ..726, 727 silk 724 spots on 724, 725 upholstered 724 willow 725 worm eaten 727 ' r^ AL V ANIZED IRON l^r 754,755 ^^ Grarbage pail, care of .686 Garlic, the 43 Gas fixtures 752 Gases in meat pies 153 Gas, sewer 684 Gelatine 20,427 Gelatine, stains from 832 German silver 752 Ghee 194 Gherkins 534 Gilded articles 753 Gilding 300 for silk, etc 846 to restore 803 Ginger 566 Ginghams, to wash 871 Gilt mountings 752 Glaire 811 Glass, hints about . . . 742 to 746 ink for 845 stoppers, to remove 745 to pulverize 746 to cut 745 Glassware 678, 742 to 746 Glazing 122,633 Globes, glass, to clean 743 Gloves... 822, 823 Glue, stains from 832 Glues, 7 recipes 840, 841 Glycerine 829 Gnats 853 Goatskins 720 Gold, to clean 753 embroidery, to clean 873 lace 753 tarnished 758 Grained wood, to clean 766 Granite ware, care of 680 Grass stains 831 Grates, steel 761, 762 Gravy, stains from 832 Grease, stains from 832 Grebe feathers 817 Grenades, fire 763 Grenadine, to clean 272 Griddles 681 Grindstones, care of .738 Ground floors, to keep dry . . 716 Gum, stains from 832 Gutta percha 839 936 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX MAIR, curled, to clean . . .818 Hall floors 715 Hangings, to restore faded 873 Hard water, test for 691 Hard water, to soften 691 Harvest bugs 853 Hats, hints about 822, 823 Hearth rugs 721 Heaters, chemical 763 Hinges, to stop creaking. . . .692 Honey, artificial 572 Hoods, to clean 869 Horn, hints about 733 to weld 840 Horseradish, the 103 Housecleaning 697 Household topics 670 Hydrochloric acid 830 fCE, hints about 687 Ice house 686 Iceland moss, origin, etc. 588 Indelible ink 843 Ink, 20 recipes 843, 844 stains from 832, 833 to Gr3-SG S'i'i to restore faded.' .'807, 808,' 844 Insect pests 848 to 856 Insects, bites and stings of . . 850 Insects on trees, shrubs, etc. 853 Intoxicating liquors, use of. . 18 Irish moss, origin, etc 588 Iron, hints about 753, 754 Iron, test for 691 Iron mold, stains from 833 Iron pots 680 Isinglass 427 Ivorine 732 Ivory, hints about 731, 732 ;^APAN, for tin 757 1 1 Japanned ware 734 ^ Japanese cement 840 Jasper 735 Javelle water, to make 847 £et jewelry 759 Jewelry, care of 758 MEROSENE, for wash- ing 858 test for 747 Kerosene, use of for fires . . . 763 KettleSj hints about .... 680, 681 Kid boots, care of 812 Kid gloves 822, 823 Kitchen, the 671,672 Kitchen door, facing of 675 Knives and forks, hints about 678, 679 Kouftas 183 Kromeskies 182 T^ ABARRAQUE'S solu- lA tion 708 -'-^ Lace, to wash, etc. 869, 870 Lacquers 751, 757 Lamp chimneys and shades. 748 Lamps, hints about . . 746 to 748 substitute for 748 Lamp tops, cement for 748 Lamb's lettuce 208 Larding 121 Lardoons 121 Larnande's mixture 708 Laundry, the 857 to 874 bed ticks, to clean 873 bleaching 861, 874 bluing 860,861 button holes, a hint about 864 cashmere, to clean 872 chamois skin 867 chenille, to clean 873 chintz, to clean 873 clothes lines 861 clothes pins 861 clothes wringers 861 coat collars, to clean 874 crape 872 curtains, to clean 869, 870, 873 drying clothes 861 enamels for shirts 864 flannel, to clean dry 869 flannel, to shrink 865 flannels, to wash 864 flat-irons 863 folding clothes 861 ginghams, to wash 871 gold embroidery, to clean. 873 grenadine 872 hangings, to restore faded 873 hoods, to clean 869 infants' clothing 865 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 937 Laundry, the, (Continned.) ironing 863 kerosene for washing 858 lace, to clean, etc 869, 870 linen, cleaning, etc 868 muslins, colored, to wash. 872 nankeen, to clean 873 plush 872 portieres, to clean 873 potato water, use of 867 prints, to wash 871 rinsing clothes 860 sarcinets 871 sateens 871 satin, cleaning of . . . .867, 871 scorches, to remove 864 setting colors 874 shams, to clean 869 silks, cleaning of 866 silk, to renovate 866 silver embroidery, to clean 873 soaking clothes 859 soap bark 860 soaps 859,860 soda, hyposulphite of 860 starching clothes 862, 863 stockings, washing of 865 tubs, height of 859 turpentine, use of 859 veils, to clean, etc 871 velvet, to clean 872 velveteens 872 washing clothes 858 washing fluids 858 washing powders 859 woolens, washing of 868 yellowed clothes 864 Lavender, for insects . . . 854, 855 Leek, the 35 Lemon peel, to grate 358 Leather, hints about. . .810, 811 ink for 845 Lice 853 Lightning eradicator 837 Lightningrods 696 Lights, the 166 Lime, chloride of 685, 829 ' for polishing 847 stains from 834 test for 691 water, to make 847 Linen, cleaning of, etc 868 Linoleum 722 Liquors, intoxicating 18 Locks 695 Lubricator, a 846 Luminous paints 766 Lye, stains from 83 'ACE 30 Macedoines 442 Mackintoshes 739 Magnesia, test for 691 Mahogany, hints about 725, 726 Manuscripts, illegible, to re- store 807 Maple syrup, imitation 283 Marble, hints about.. 735 to 737 Marinade 54 Marinate, to 204 Marine shells 733 Marjoran, the 108 Matches, hints about. . .748, 749 Mats 720 Mattings, hints about. .722, 723 Mercurial ointment, stains of... .....834 Mercuric chloride 707 Mercury, effect of on metals.756 Mercury, perchloride of 707 Meringue 300 Metals and metal^ware 749 to 759 Mezzotints, hints about 803, 804 Mice, to get rid of 855 Microbes 518 Mildew 868 stains from .', . .834 Milk, stains from 834 Mint, the...." 104 Mirrors, hints about 742 Molasses 347, 351 stains from 834 Mold 490 stains from 833 Monks-beard 207 Morocco leather 810 Mosquitoes 853 Mother of pearl 733 Moths 853,854 Mousse 443 Mucilage, 5 recipes 841 Mud, stains from 834 938 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX Muriatic acid 350, 830 Muslins, to wash 872 Mustard 105 t-tnAILS, hints about 730 Ir/ Nail holes, to fill 740 -^^A Nankeen, to clean .... 873 Nasturtium, the 537 Nettle stings 850 Newspapers, uses of 848 Nickel, to clean 755, 761 Nitrate o£ silver stains 834 Noise, to deaden 730 Nutmeg, the 412 Nut shells, stains of 832 r7\D0RS, disagreeable, to Y^\ emove 681 ^^ Oilcloths, care of 721 Oiled silk 821 Oils 117 Oil, anti^corrosive 848 to keep 848 to unite with water 848 stains from 832, 834 Oleomargarine 194 Osmazome 21 Ossein , . 21 Ostrich feathers 816, 817 Oxalic acid 830 Ox^gall 830 I AILS, hints about 815 Paint, hints about 764 to 766 Paint brushes 766 Paintings, care of 801 to 803 Paint, stains from 835 Pans, care of 681 Pantry, care of ... 675 Paper, copying 845 hints about 806 to 808 stains on 806, 807 Paper, wall 808 to 810 Parasols 826 Parchment 807, 808 Parian china 743 Pasteboard, to make waters proof 807 Pastry bowl, care of 681 Pastes, 7 recipes 842 68 Patent leather 811, 812 Peach stains 835 Pearl, mother of 733 Pearls, care of 758, 759 Pectose 489 Pepper, origin, etc 592 Peppermint 459 Permanganate of potassium . 707 Perspiration, stains from . . . 835 Pewter 755 Phene 829 Pianos, care of 727, 728 Pictures, care of 801 Picture frames, hints about ^ 802, 803 Pie plates, care of 681 Pilafe 179 Pilau 601 Pipes, flushing of 683 hints about 693, 694 to detect leaks in 684 Piping 397 Pitch, stains from 835 Plaster casts 734 Plaster of Paris 734, 735 Plaster, to mend holes in . . . 810 Plate powder 758 Plated ware, hints about, 755, 756 Pluck, the 166 Plush, to clean 872 to restore 822 Polishing materials .... 758, 847 Porcelain, hints about 743 Porphyry 735 Potato water, for washing .. .867 Portieres, to clean 873 Pots, iron, care of 680 Powder, for stamping 845 Preserve jars 743 Prints, to wash 871 Privies, to disinfect 709 Pumps, hints about 693 Punch stains 835 rrjUENELLES 29 ls\ Quicksilver, effect of ^^ on metals 756 tAISINE .484 Rainwater, to clarify. 691 Raisins 310 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 939 Ragout 116 Range, tlie 674 Rats, to get rid of .855 Refrigerators, care of . . .682, 683 Rennet 198, 410 Ribbons, care of 820 Rice 248 Rice cement 840 Rocambole, the ' 24 Roofs, hints about 694 Rope 740 Rottenstone 847 Roux 97 Rubber, hints about. . ..788, 739 Rugs 720, 721 Rumf ord, Count 20 Russia iron 753 Rust, stains from 833, 834 i^AGE, the 182 7^ Sago 424 ^"^ Salamander 674 Saleratus 350 Salmis 176 Sal^soda 350 Salt, for disinfecting 847 Salts of lemon , 830 Salts of sorrel 830 Sap pans, lime in 751 Sandstone 737 Sanitas 707 Sarcinets, to clean 871 Sarsaparilla 572 Sateens, to clean .• 871 Satin, cleaning of 867, 871 Satin, etc., gild for 846 Satin shoes, to clean 812 Sauce pan, care of 681 Sauce, stains from 835 Sauteing 119, 121 Sawdust for floors 713 Scale pans, to clean 750 Scorches, to remove .... 835, 864 Scouring balls 837 Screws, hints about 730 Sealing wax, stains from .... 835 Sealing wax, to make 843 Sealskins 827 Setting colors 874 Sewer gas 684, 704 Shallot, the 24 Shawls, to clean 869 Sheepskin rugs 720 Shells, marine 733 Shells, nut, stains of 832 Shelves, wooden, to clean. . .675 Shoes, care of 812 to 814 Shoe dressing 814 Shoemaker's wax .843 Shoestrings, to tie 813 Sieves, care of 681 Silk hats 825 Silk, oiled, to prepare 821 Silks, cleaning of 866, 867 Silver embroidery, to clean . .873 Silver fish 850 Silver lace 753 Silver, nitrate, stains of 834 Silver, to mark with black . . 845 Silverware, hints about . 755, 756 Sinks, care of 683 Sizing 715,824 Skins, to tan small 811 Slate 737 Slops, emptying of 702 Slugs 854 Snails 854 Soap bark 860 Soaps 859,860 Soapstone 737 Soapstone griddles 681 Soda 350 chlorinated 708 hyposulphite of 860 washing 847 Soft soap 859, 860 Solanine 246 Soldering fluid 757 Sorrel, the 37 Sound, to deaden 730 Soup, stains from 835 Sour, common 846 Spaghetti 233, 234 Spectacles, care of 746 Spermaceti, stains from .... 835 Spices 97 Spirit of salt 830 Spirits of wine 830 Sponges, hints about 739 Spoons, wooden 815 Spots and Stains, to remove 828 to 837 940 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX Squeaking of shoes, to stop . 814 Stains for floors 714 Stains, to remove .... 828 to 837 Stair carpets 719 Stamping powder 845 Starch, cooking of 326 Starch, for clothes. . . .862, 863 Stearine, stains from 835 Steel, hints about 753, 754 Steel pens, to preserve 844 Stencil ink 844 Stings of insects 850 Stone 737 Stoneware 746 Stoppers, glass, to remove . . 745 Storeroom, care of 676 Stoves, hints about . . 759 to 762 Stovepipes 762 Stovepolish 760 Stove urn, the 761 Straw goods, to bleach, etc. 824, 825 Sublimate, corrosive 707 Sugar, stains from 835 use of in cooking ; . .477 Sulphate of copper 708 Sulphate of iron 708 Sulphate of zinc 708 Sulphurous acid gas 708 Swansdown 816 Swords, to clean 754 >prf ABLES, wooden, to ) („ clean 675 ^ Tallow, to clarify .... 175 Tanning small skins 811 Tannin, stains of 832 Tapioca 335 Tar, stains from 835 Tarragon, the 110 Tartaric acid 829 Tea-kettle, care of 681 Tea leaves, uses of 848 Teapot, care of 682 Tea, stains from 835 Theine 556 Thermometers, use of 123 Thyme, the 38 Thymol 708 Tiled floors 723 Tiles, care of 738 Tin ware, hints about. .756, 757 Tobacco pipes 740 Tonka beans 358 Tortoiseshell 733 Trichina 144 Tripoli 847 Tubs, hints about 815 Tumblers, to clean 743 Turpentine 830 for washing 859 WMBRELLAS, care of . .826 Urine, stains from . . . 835 Useful articles, a few . 846 j^ANILLA 357 Jyp Varnish brushes 767 ■^ Varnish, hints about. 767 Varnish, for floors 714 for straw goods 825 incombustible 815 scratches in 727 Veils, to clean, etc 871 Vegetable marrow, the 38 Vegetole 119 Vellum 808 Velvet, to clean : 872 to restore crushed 822 Velveteens 872 Ventilation, hints about .... 702 Vermicelli 233, 234 Vinegar cruets 744 Vinegar, stains from 836 Violins, cleaning of 728 Violin bows 728 Vitriol, white and blue 708 ^^AFERS ..273 Wagon grease, stains ^ from 832 Walks, hints about 696 Walls, hints about 695 Wall paper 808 to 810 Walnut stains 836 Washing fluids 858, 859 Washing powders 859 Washing soda 847 Wasps 854 Water, hints about . . 690 to 693 absorbing power of 692 SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 941 Water, effect of on vegetables 219 filtering of 692 for cooking 691 stagnant, to purify 692 tests for 690, 691 to clarify 691 to keep cool 692 to soften hard 691 Waxed floors 713 Wax, stains from 836 Wells, hints about. . . .688, 689 gas in 688 Weevils 854 Whalebones 740 Wheat, entire 267 Whiting for polishing 847 Whitewash stains 836 Whitewash, to make 768 Wicks, lamp, care of 747 Williams, Mattieu 216 Willow furniture 725 Willow ware, to bleach 725 Windows, hints about ...... 741 Wine, spirits of 830 Wine, stains from 836 Wire table ware 757 Wood, hints aboot 729, 730 polishes for 730 stains for 729 to ebonize 729 to fill cracks in 730 to harden 730 to make it fireproof 730 Woodenware, hints about 814 to 816 Woods, cleaning of 766 Woolen goods, cleaning of 868, 869 Wringers, clothes 861 Wringing machine rollers . . 738 Writing, to restore faded 807, 808 ^ARDS, to disinfect.... 709 Yeast 263 to 265 Yorkshire pudding . . .132 'ANTE currants 340 Zest 358 Zinc, to clean 758 Zinc, ink for 845 MEDICAL AND TOILET HINTS. Acidity of the stomach 875 Acids, burns from 876 Alkalies, burns from 876 Asthma 875 Bandoline 886 Bites of snakes 875 Black eye 876 Blackheads 885 Blisters 875 Boils 875 Breath, offensive 886 Bruises 876 Burnet's celebrated powder. 887 Burns 876 Bunions 876 Cankered mouth and throat . 876 Catarrh 876 Chaps 876 Chilblains 876 Choking 877 Cholera infantum 877 Cholera morbus 877 Cold cream 885 Colds 876 Cold sores 877 Colic 877 Corns 877 Cough mixture 877 Cramp 878 Croup 878 Cuts 878 Dandruff 886 Diarrhea 878 Diphtheria. 878 Diphtheretic sore throat .... 878 Dogwood, poisoning from . . 882 Dysentery 878 Earache 878 Ear, insects in 878 Emetics 879 Eye, black ....876 Eye, foreign substances in . . 879 Eyes, inflamed 879 Eyelids, inflamed 879 Face powders 887 Fainting ...879 942 SUPPLEMENTAKY INDEX MEDICAL AND TOILET HINTS— Continued. Fatigue 879 Felons 879 Freckles 885 Frostbites 879 Fruit laxative 880 Grippe, the 879 Gumboil 880 Hair, falling out 886 Hair, to promote growth of . 886 Hay fever 880 Headache 880 Heartburn 880 Hepatic spots 885 Hiccough 880 Hives 880 Hoarseness 880 Hysteria 880 Insect in ear 878 Itch 881 Ivy, poisoning from 882 Laxative, fruit 880 Liniments 881 Lipsalve 887 Mask 885 ^ Measles ..881 Medicines, to remove nauseous taste of 875 Moles 885 Morphew 885 Moth patches 885 Mouth, sore 887, 881 Nettle rash 881 Neuralgia 881 Nose, bleeding from 881 Nose, foreign bodies in 881 Nursing sore mouth 881 Offensive breath 886 Onions, to kill odor of 886 Perspiration, offensive 885 Pills, to take 875 Pimples 885 Poisons, antidote for 882 Powders, to take 875 Prickly heat 882 Proud flesh 882 Retching 882 Ringworm ; . . . .882 Salt rheum 882 Salve 882,887 Scalds 876 Sea sickness 888 Sleeplessness 883 Snakes, bites of 875 Snoring 883 Sore throat 888 Soap, antiseptic 887 Sprains 883 Sunburn 886 Sunstroke 884 Suffocation 888 Swallowing substances by mistake Tan, to remove 886 Tartar on teeth 886 Throat, cankered 876 Throat, sore 888,876 Thrush 884 Tobacco, to stop odor of ... . 886 Toilet hints 885 to 887 Tooth powder 886 Warts 886 Water brash 884 Wounds 878 SMILEY'S COOK BOOK AND UNIVERSAL HOUSEHOLD GUIDE IS SOLD BY SUBSCRIPTION ONLY. AQENTS WANTED In every city and town to sell the work. Its great usefulness and popularity makes it an unusually desirable book for agents to handle. Those desiring to try the work can obtain terms and full information by addres_sing, SMILEY PUBLISHING COMPANY, 232 W. WASHINGTON ST., CHICAGO, ILL. As this book is sold by subscription only, those desiring a copy, and not knowing any agent, should address the pub- lishers. 943 ^^ % '^ ^ ^ ^^%> 2- "=^ .^^ • \ ^'^>B^%^- .^^'^i^-^ ^°^:^^'> .^^ k*^ . * * .^^"V V ^ 'bV^ 'y^-, -^^^^^