Class Jiil2X Book \QS4- '^:i,L^^t^'-„ SIXTH THOUSAND. TJliS AECTIC EEaiONS: BEING AK ACOOUXT OF THB '^^^^mif^ AMERICAN EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, UNDER THE PATEONAGE OF HENRY GRINNELL, Esq. . OP NE^r YORK, ^_____ ' >■» Miserable they, Who here entangled in r.he gaihering ice, Take their last look of the descending sun. COWFSS. AUBURIT AND BUFFALO: MILLER, ORTON vfe MULLIGAN. 1854. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by GEO. n. DERBY AND CO. b the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Northern Dittriid of New York, AUBURN : MILLER, ORTON & MULLIGAN, 6TEEE0TYPEKS AND PKINTEKS. TO aENRY GRINNELL, ESQ., THIS FIRST AMERICAN EDITION OF HB JOHH FEANEXIN A2TD THE AECTIO EEGIOISrS, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS HUMBLE SERVANTS, THE PUBLISHERS. PUBLISHERS' NOTICE Tlie explorations of the Arctic Regions, made during the last three centuries, have been prompted by the most commendable spirit, and have called into requisition, and strikingly developed, traits 6^ character of a high order. The Arctic navigators have usually been men of extreme daring, wonderful perseverance and sublime fortitude ; and a digest of their heroic toils in the path of geographical discovery, abounds with scientific facts, and examples of manly courage and exalted virtues, potential in their nature, and highly salutary in their tendency. These considerations have impressed us with the importance of republishing this work. But as the English edition contains but slight reference to American enterprise and zeal in the search for the long absent ships, under the commana of Sii John Franklin, we have deemed it proper to add an account of the expedition sent out under the patronage of Henry Grinnell, Esq., who is doing more than any other man in our country to entitle modern merchants to the appellation given to those of Tyre, in her best days — "the honorable of the earth." The account of the expedition which he sent out, is copied from Lossing's article, in Harper's New Monthly Magazine. The other additional matter will, we trust, be found pertinent, entertaining, and valuable. The work, in its present form, must, we feel assured, meet the approval of a discriminating public PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION. TiiK desire for information, felt all over this country, and, indeed, 1 mAj E.li.«ost say throughout the civilized world, respecting the fate of the missing expedition under Sir John Franklin, is very great, and continues to becotne more and more intense, as the lapse of time lessens the proba- bility of their return in safety. The large number of individuals now engaged in prosecuting the search for them in the arctic regions, and the deep anxiety manifested by the friends' and relatives whom these fre^h explorers have left behind, has turned the attention of thousands to this inhospitable and comparatively little known quarter of the globe, serving to lend an added interest to every book descriptive of the polar seas and shores. Among the pubKcations which have from time to time appeared, there seems to have been no popular han-ative, especially treating of the voy- ages and journeys of discovery and research prosecuted in the nineteenth century toward the l>rorth Pole, embracing accounts of all the recent public and private searching expeditions after the lost ships, and adapted m price to the bulk of the community who so eagerly seek information. To meet this want I have been induced, at the solicitation of my pub- lishers, to undeilake the compilation of the following work, in which I have brought into one view all that is really impoilant to be known by those who desire to form a correct opinion of the present state of the case, and to make themselves acquainted with what has really been done j in the progress of discovery for a northwest passage, and -^hat measures \ have been adopted for the reUef of our imprisoned seamen. Much of th&f material thus condensed is to be found scattered through a variety of ' publications, huge and expensive quarto volumes of voyages, now scarce or out of print, parliamentaiy papers and returns, foreign journals, &c., but the largest portion of this information is entirely new. In condensing from the voluminous Blue Books on this subject that have been published during the last few years, my chief object has been, avoiding rash and speculative opinion, to direct'the reader's attention as much as possible to matters of fact ; to place before him all that is really practical, important, and interesting, and especially to put him in possession of what is known of the result of the recent voyages, and the latest position and intended plan of operations of the numerous vessels at present out on the search for the Erebus and TeiTor. In putting myself in communication with those best informed on the subject of which this volume treats, I have to acknowledge myself deeply indebted for much polite attention and valuable information to Lady Franklin and her niece Miss Cracroft, to John BaiTow, Esq., of the Admiralty, to Capt. Beecher, R. N., the talented editor of the N'autical Magazine, to Commander C. C. Forsyth, R. N., and to Dr. Shaw, the Sec- retary of the Royal Geographical Society of London. In conclusioHj'^I may state that, as the son and grandson of very olf" VI P K E F A C E . Lieutenants in the Royal 'Nary, having been originally in the service myself, having five brothers afloat, and a large number of other relatives holding her Majesty's commission, I feel a deep professional interest in hearing tidings of the safety of Sir John Franklin and his gallant com- rades, and am but too happy to aid in satisfying the public desire for information, by contributing my mite in the publication of the following narrative of voyages and travels in the arctic regions, with the appended suggestions and opinions of experienced officers and competent parties. > To the intrepid veteran and navigator, whose name figures so frequently and so honorably in these pages, I hope we may yet be able to apply, with the few slight verbal alterations I have made, the following lines, which were originally addressed to Dr. Leichardt, who, after two years* absence on ajourney through the unexplored regions of Australia, returned to Sidney, when all hopes of his safety had been given up, and his dirge had been sung by his friends. That bold traveler is again absent on a second journey in the interior of that vast continent, and has not been heard of for more than two years. May Heaven grant to each and all of our care-worn travelers by sea and land a speedy deliverance from the perils which environ them, and a safe return to their friends and native country — a wish to which all my readers will, I am sure, most heartily respond, " So mote it be ! " " Thy footsteps have returned again, thou wanderer of the wild, Where Nature from her northern throne in silent beauty smiled. Pilgrim of mighty wastes, untrod by human foot before, Triumphant o'er Frost's wilderness, thy weary journey 's o'er. Thou hast battled with the dangers of the iceberg and the flood, And amid the crystal desert a conquerer hast stood ; Thou hast triumphed o'er the perils of the glacier and the main, And a nation's smiling welcome is the greeting home again. Long had we mourn'd with sorrowing, and plaintive dirges sung, For fate a •ndld, mysterious vail around thy name had flung ; And hope's dechning energies with feeble eftbrt strove Against the boding voice of fear that haunts the heart of love. And Rumor with her hundred tongues, her vague and blighting breatl\ Had whispered tidings sad and drear, dark tales of blood and death ; Till tortured fancy ceased to hope, and all despairing gave Thy name a haUow'd memory — thy bones a polar grave. But no ! that proud, intrepid heart still held its purpose high, Like Afric's martyr traveler, resolved to do or die ; , Like him to find a lonely grave, in desert lands of flame, Or win a bright eternity of high and glorious fame ! Oft amid famine, danger, death, when meaner spirits quaU'd, Have thy unfailing energies to cheer and soothe prevail'd ; For weU thy hope-inspiring voice could speak of perDs past, And bid each coming one appear less painful than the last. And oft e'en that brave heart of thine has sadden'd to despair, ^ When o'er some wild and ice-clad scene, the sunlight shining Mr Hath bid thy softened spirit feel how lonely was thy lot. To die, thy mission unfulfill'd, miknovvn, unwept, forgot. Proud man ! in after ages the story shall be told. Of that advent'rous voyager, the generous, the bold, Who, scorning hope of selfish gain, disdaining soft repose. Went forth to trace a pathway through \myielding ice and snows." P. L. SIMMOjSTDS. 5 Barge-Yard, City, CONTENTS. Introduction to the American Edition '. 7 Introductory Remarks, 25 Little Imovm of the Arctic Regions — Notice of Capt. Phipps' Voyage — ^Parry's ana Franklin's opinions on a northwest passage — Abstract of Sir John Barrow's works on Arctic Discovery — England's neglect of her nautical heroes- Captain S'ir John Ross's Voyage in the Isabella and Alexander to Hudson's Bay in 1818 37 Names of the ofiScers and men — Ships -visited by the natives of Greenland — Abim- dance of birds on this coast — Gale of wind — Red snow — Lancaster Sound — The fabu- lous Croker mountauis — Agnes monument — Large bear shot — Return home. Voyage of Buchan and Franklin in the Dorothea and Trent, to Spitzbergen, (fee, 1818, ..., _.45 Names of officers and complement, &o. — ^Fanciful appearance of icebergs — Ships arrive at Spitzbergen — Anchor in Magdalen Bay — Hanging icebergs — Immense flocks of birds — Dangerous ascent of Rotge IILU — Attack of walruses — Surprised by unlooked- for visitors — 13evout feeling of recluses — Expedition puts to sea again — Party lose themselves on the ice — Ships damaged by the pressure of the floes — Dangerous position of the ships — They take refuge in the main pack of icebergs — Vessek put into Fair Haven to stop leaks and refit — Return home. Franklin's First Land Expedition, 1819-21 , 6X Party leave England in the Prince of Wales — Reach Hudson's Bay fkctory by tho end of August — Proceed by the rivers and lakes to Cumberland House — Arrive at Fort Chipewyan after a winter journey of 857 miles — Engage voyageurs and guides — Make the acquaintance of Akaitcho, the Indian chief— Push on for Fort Enterprise, which is made their winter residence after a voyage of 563 miles — Exploring excursions car- ried on during the winter — " Green Stockings," the Indian beauty — Stores and Esqui- maux interpreters arrive — Severity of the winter — Sufferings of the Indians — Party set out for the Polar Sea — Examine the coast westward of Point Turnagain — Dreadful hardships and sufferings endured on their return journey, from famine and fatigue — Death of several of the party — Mr. Hood is murdered by Michel the Iroquois, who, for their mutual safety, is killed by Dr. Richardson — Hunger and famine endured by the party — Their ultimate relief. Parry's First Voyage in the Hecla and Griper, 1819-20, 85 Names of officers serving, &c. — Enter Lancaster Soimd — The Croker mountains prove to be fallacious — Parry discovers and enters Regent Inlet — Also discovers and names^ various islands, capes, and channels — Reaches MehdUe Island — Expedition cross the meridian of llO*' W., and become entitled to the Parliamentary reward of £5000 — Drop anchor for the first time — Land on the island — Abundance of animals found — An exploring party lose themselves for three days, but are recovered and brought back — Vessels get into winter-quarters — A MS. newspaper published — amateur plays performed — ObserA^atory destroyed by fire — Scurvy makes its appearance — Crews put on short allowance — An excursion of a fortnight made to examine tbt island — Shipg get •lear of the ice — But are unable to make further progress to the westward, and their taturn to England is determined on. Vlii CONTENTS. Parry's Second Voyage in the Fury and Heck, 1821-23 101 His opinion as to a northwest passage — ^Make Resolution island, at the entrance of Hudson's Strait^ — Dangers ot the ice — Fall in mth Hudson' sBay Company's ships, and emigrant vessel, with Dutch colonists proceeding to Red River — Two immense bears killed — Description of the Esquimaux — Surveys made of all the indentations and coasts of this locaUty — Ships driven back by the cm-rent and drift-ice-^Take up their winterT quarters — And resort to theatrical amusements again — Schools established — Great severity of the winter — Surveying operations resumed — InteUig'ent Esquimaux female affords valuable hydrographical information — Perilous position of the Hecla — Her miraculous release — Ships pass their second M-inter at Igloolik-^The Fury and Hecla Strait examined — Ice breaks up — Ships driven about by the current for thirty-five days — At last gain the Atlantic and make for England. Clavering's Voyage to Spitzbergen and Greenland in the Griper, 1823-.... 126 Conveys out Capt. Sabine to make observations — Reach Spitzbergen — Proceed thenca to Pendulum Islands — Northeastern coast of Greenland surveyed — Captain Clavering and a party of nineteen men carry on an exploring expedition for a fortnight — Meet with a tribe of Esquimaux — Ship puts to sea — Make for the coast of Norway — Anchor in Drontheim Fiord — Observations being completed, ship returns to Englaiid. Lyon's Voyage in the Griper, 128 Is sent to survey and examine the straits and shores of Arctic America — Arrives in the channel known as Roe's Welcome — Encoimters a terriiic gale — Is in imminent dan- ger in the Bay of Gods Mercy — Sufiers from another fearful storm — The ship being quite crippled, and ha\-ing lost all her anchors, &c., is obUged to return home. Pane's Third Voyage in the Heck and Fuiy, 1824-25 130 Names and number of the officers, &c. — Hecla laid on her broadside by the ice — Ships reach Lancaster Sound — Enter Regent Inlet and wnter at Port Bowen — Dreary char'j-'ter of the arctic winter — Former amusements T\'orn threadbare — Polar Bal Masqcs got up — Exploring parties sent out inland and along the coast — Ships are releasee, but beset by the ice, and carried by the pack down the inlet — Fury driven ou shore and abandoned — Return voyage necesf^rily determmed on — Scarcity of animal food in this locality — Hecla arrives at Peterhead — ^Parry's opinions of the northwest Frank^n's Second Land Expedition, 1825-26 137 Names of the officers accompanying him — Arrive in New York and proceed through the Hudson's Bay Company's territories — Winter at Fort Franklin on Great Bear Lake — A pioneer party proceeds to examine the state of the Polar Sea — Return and pass the long winter — Descend the Mackenzie in the spring — Party di-i-ide ; Franklin and Back proceeding to the westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendal, &c., follow the Coppermine Riier — Franldin encounters a fierce tribe of Esquimaux at the sea — After a month's survey to the eastward, Franklin and his party retrace their steps — Find Richardson and Kendal had returnd before them, after reaching and explor- ing Dolphin and Union Strait — Another \'v-inter spent at Fort Franklin — ^Intensity of the cold— Large collection of objects of natural history made by Mr. Drummond — Franklin's struggle between affection and duty— Party return to England. Captain Beeehey's Voyage to Behring's Strait in the Blossom, 1825-26 140 Anchors off Petropaulowsld — Receives intelligence of Parry's safe return — ^Interview wit)' the natives — Correct hydrographical descriptions given by the Esquimaux- Ship s boat pushes on to the eastward as far as Point Barrow, to communicate with Frankfin — Crew in danger from the natives — Obliged to return to their ships — The Blossom proceeds to the Pacific, to replenish her provisions — Returns to Kotzebue Sound in the summer — Ship grounds ou a sand-bank, but is got off— Boat sent out to learn tidings of Franklin, is viTecked— Crew come into colli.sion with hostile natives, and are wounded ; picked up by the ship— Dispatches left for Franldin, and the bh^ returns to England. CONTENTS. IX PaiTy 's Fourtli or Polar Voyage in the Hecla, 1827 . . . ^ 144 Plans and suggestions of Scoresby, Beaufby and Franklin for traveling in sledges over the ice — Names of the officers employed — Ship embarks reindeer on the Norway coast — Experiences a tremendous gale — Beset by ice for a month — Anchors at Spitz- bergen — Sledge-boats prepared for the ice jovirney — Description of them — Night ttlrned into day — Slow progress — Occupations of the party — Lose groimd by the southward drift of the ice — Bear shot — Notices of animals seen — Reach northernmost known land — The islet named after Ross — Return to the ship — Parry's subsequent suggestions on tliis mode of traveling — Sir John Barrow's comments thereon — Opin- ions of this perilous ice journey — Review of Parry's arctic servioes. Captain John Ross's Second Voyage in the Victory, 1829-33.- 155 Ross seeks official employment from the Admiralty on another arctic voyage — is re- fused — Funds are furnished by Mr. Felix Booth — The Victory steamer purchased — Engages Ms nephew, Commander James Ross, as his second in command — List of other officers— Ship encounters a gale, and is obliged to put into Holsteijiberg to refit '—Proceed on their voyage — Enter Lancaster Sound and Regent Inlet^Reach Fury Beach — Fiad abundance of stores there, and preserved meat in excellent condition — Replenish their stock — Proceed down the Inlet — Perils of the ice — Vessel secured in Felix Harbor for the winter — Esquimaux %isit the ship — Furnish very correct sketches of the coast — '^-ommander James Ross makes many excursions inland -and along the bays and mlets — Explores Ross's Strait, and pushes on to King William's Land — Diffi- culty of distinguishing land from sea — Reaches Point Victory and turns back — Ship gets clear of the ice, after eleven months' imprisonment, but in a week is again frozen 131, and the party are detained during another severe winter — Further discoveries made, and Commander Ross pLants the British flag on the north magnetic pole — ^In August, 1831, the ship is warped out, an* makes sail, but after beating about for a, month, is again frozen in ; and rather than spend a fourth winter, there being no prospect of releasing the ship, she is abandoned, and the crew make for Fury Beach — Provisions and boats taken on with great labor — Party erect a canvas hut, which they name Som- erset House — In a month, the boats being prepared for the voyage, the party embark, and reach the mouth of the inlet — Barrow"s Strait is found one compact mass of ice— They are obliged to tall back on the stores at Fury Beach to spend their fourth winter^ Placed on short allowance — Li the spring they again embark in their boats and succeed in reaching Lancaster Sound — Fall in with whalers — Are received on board the Isabella, Captain Ross's old ship — Arrive home — Public rejoicings for their safety — Rewards granted — Resume of Captain John Ross's services. in Back's Land Journey in search of Ross, 1833-34 168 Attention called to the missing expedition by Dr. Richardson — Plans of relief sug- gested — Pubhc meeting held to consider the best measures — Ample funds raised — Capt. Back volunteers — Leaves England with Dr. King — Voyageurs and guides, &c., engaged in Canada — Party push through the northwest country — Dreadfid sufferings from insect pests — Reach Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake — Motley description of the travelers and their encampment — Arrangements are completed, and the joiu-ney in search of the Great Fish River commenced — Frightful nature of the precipices, rap- ids, falls, ra\ines, &c. — Meet with old acquaintances — Obliged to return to their winter quarters — Dreadful sufferings of the Indians — Fanune and intense cold — Noble conduct of Akaitcho, the Indian chief— News received of Captain Ross's safe return to England — Franklin's faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, endeavoring to join Back, is frozen to death — A fresh journey toward the sea is resolved on — Provisions for three months taken — ^Indian encampment — Green Stockings, the beauty— Interview with the chief, Aloutcho — Arduous and perilous progress toward the sea — Pilformg propensi- ties of the Indians — Meet with a large friendly tribe of Esquimaux — Reach the sea, and proceed along the coast to the eastward, unable to arrive at the Pomt Turnagain of Franklin — Privations of the party on their return journey — Difficulties encountered in re-ascendmg the river — Reach Fort Reliance after four months' absence — Pass the winter there — Captain Back arrives in England in September, after an absence of two years and a half— Dr. Eling follows him in the Hudsons Bay spring ships. Back's Voyage in the Terror up Hudson's Strait, 1 836 186 Ship arrives at Salisbury Island — Proceeds up Frozen Strait — ^Is blocked up by the ice, and driven about powerless for more than six months — Cast on her beam enda for three days— From the crippled state of the ship and the insurmountable difficulties 7f the navigation, the return to England is determined on — Summary of Captain Back's arctic services. Capta CONTENTS. '8. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries on the coast of Arctic America, 1836-39 1S7 Descend the Mackenzie to the sea — Survey the western part of the shores of North America from Return Reef to Cape Barrow— Discover two new rivers, the Garry and Colville — After reaching Elson Bay, return to winter at Fort Confidence, on Great Bear Lake — Survey resumed in the ensuing spring — Dangerous rapids on the Copper- mine river — Encamp at its mouth — Copper ore found here — Victoria Land discovered and 110 miles of new coast traced — Re-ascent of the Coppermine commenced — Boats abandoned, and the Barren grounds traversed on foot — Spend another winter at Fort Confidence — The following season a tliird voyage commenced — Richardson's River •xamined — Coronation Gulf found clear of ice — Coast survey to the eastward prose- cuted — Simpson's Strait discovered— Back's Estuary reached— Deposit of provisions made by Back five years previous, found — Aberdeen Island, the extreme point reached —Parts of coasts of Boothia and Victoria Land traced — One of the boats abandoned — Descent of the Coppermine, and safe arrival at Fort Confidence. Dr. John Eae's Land Expedition, 1846-47 192 Hudson's Bay Company dispatch Rae and a party of thirteen men to complete the survey between Dease and Simpson's furthest, and the Fury and Hecla Strait — Expe- dition leaves Fort Churchill — Reaches Wager River — Boats taken across Rae's Isthmus — Winter residence constructed — Short commons — West shore of MehlUe Peninsula, &c., examined — Party return to their encampment, and proceed to Fort Churchill — Gratuity of je400 awarded to Dr. Rae. Captain Sir John Franklin's Last Expedition in the Erebus and Terror, 1845-51 196 Probability of the safety of the expedition — Montgomery's lines on ice-imprisoned vessels — Lady Franklin's devotion and enthusiasm — Verses — Her appeal to the north — Sir E. Parry's opinion — Outfit and dispatch of Franklin's expedition — Names of the officers employed — Outline of Franklin's services — Notices of the services of other of the ofiicers — Searchiug expeditions sent out in 1848 — ^Different volunteers offer — Ab- sence of intelligence of Franldin — His latest dispatches and letters — Copper cyhnders — Franlclin's views and intentions — Letters of Captain Fitzjames — General opinions of the most experienced arctic officers as to Pranldin's safety — Offer of ser-vices and sug- gestions by Dr. King — Opinions of Captains Parry and JameB Ross thereon — Consulta- tion of officers at the Admiralty — Report of the hydrographer — Advice tendered by those consulted — Views of Mr. Snow and Mr. McLean — Public and private rewards offered for discovery and assistance to be rendered — Second report of Admiral Beaufort to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty — Various private and official letters and dispatches, pointing out, or commenting on plans and modfes of relief— Abundance of animal food foxmd in the arctic regions — A ballad of Sir John Franldin. The Government and private Searching Expeditions 281 List of the vessels and commanders, &c., now employed on the search in tho arctio regions — Notices of those returned home. Voyage of the Entei-prise and Investigator under Captains Sir J. C. , Ross and E. J. Bird, 1848-49 281 Names of the officers employed in this expedition — Ships arrive at Uppernavick— Proceed on their voyage — Force a passage through the ice — Enter Barrow's Strait- After being driven about in the pack, take shelter for the winter in the harbor of Port Leopold — Surveying trips carried on down the inlet, and round the northern and western shores of Boothia — Foxes trapped and hberated with copper collars on — Fury open water— Beset by the loose pack, and the temperature falling, the whole body of ice is formed into one solid mass, and the ships are drifted with the field into Baffin's Bay — The return to England determined on — Outline of Sir James Ross's arduous services in the polar regions. Voyage of the transport, N'orth Star, 1849 2^)0 Names of tiie officers of the ship— Official dispatch from the Commander— S'.up CONTENTS. XI beset in an ic«-A«ld in the northern part of Baffin's Bay— Drifted with it for sixty-two days— Winterh in Wolstenholme Sound— Dearth of animals there — Ship gets clear of ice and makes for I-ancaster Sound — The Lady Frankhn and FeUx are spoken with — Being prevented by the i^e from reaching Port Bowen or Port NeilL, the provisions takea out by the North Star are landed at Na-v'y Board Inlet— Speaks the Prince Albert — Receives dispatches for England — Returns home — Commander Saunders appointed to Malta Dock-yard. Second voyage of the Enterprise and Investigator under Captain Coliinson and Commander M'Clure, 1850 294 f Names of officers attached to the ships — Esquimaux interpreter appointed to the Enterprise- Vessels arrive at the Sandwich Islands— Expressed intentions of the com- manders of the vessels — Sliips reach Behring's Strait — Communicate with the Herald end Plover— Latest dispatches of Captain Coliinson and Commander M'Clure — Position of their Ships. V^oyage of the Plover, and Boat Expeditions under Commander PuUen, 1848-51 307 Purport of instructions issued from the Admiralty — Ship arrives in Behring's Strait -Discovers new land and islands to the north of the Strait — "Winters in Kotzebue 6ound — Lieutenant Pullen and party proceed in boats along the coast to the Mackenzie River — No tidings gleaned of Franklin's ships — Letter from Lieut. Hopper — Latest offi- cial dispatch from Conunander Pullen — His intentions — Sir John Richardson's a(i\ice. Voyage of the Lady Franlclin and Sophia, purchased government ships, under the command of Mr. Ponny 312 Nature of the instructions given — Printing Press supplied — Ships saU and reach Wolstenholme Sotmd — Prevented by the ice from exarmning Jones' Sound — Reach Wellington Channel, and are left there by the Prince Albert. Voyage of the Resolute and Assistance, under command of Captain Austin, with their steam tenders, Pioneer and Intrepid, 1850-51 313 Ships pvu-chased and are renamed by the government — Officers employed — ^Instruc- tions given to search WeUington Channel, and push on to MelviUe Island — Official dispatch from Captain Ommaney— MS. newspaper started on boai'd the Assistance- Extracts therefront. Voyage of Captain Sir John Ross in the Felix private schooner 1850-51 319 Is fitted out by the Hudson's Bay Company and private subscription — Arrives at "Whalefish Islands, and overtakes the Advance and Resolute — Proceeds in company — Esquimaux reports of the destruction of Franklin's ships, and murder of the crew — Proved by mvestigation to be devoid of foundation — Letter of Sir John Ross to the •Secretary of the Admiralty. American Government Searching Expedition in the United States ships Advance and Rescue, under the command of Lieutenant De Haven, 1850-51 325 Lady Franklin's appeal to the American nation — Mr. Clayton's reply — Second letter of Lady Franklin to the President-rSuggestions of Lieutenant S. Osborn, R. N. — De- bate in Congress — Resolutions agreed to — Munificence of Mr. H. Grinnell — Ships fitted ovit and dispatched — Names of officers employed — Dispatches from the commander. Remarkable Voyage of the private ship Pnnce Albert, under the command of Captain Forsyth, R. N",, to Regent Inlet and back, 1850 348 Fitted out by Lady Franklin and by private subscription — Reasons for the expeditioin — Officers and crew — Discover traces of Franklin — Fall in with other ships — Visits Regent Inlet — Is forced to return home — Remarks on this voyage — Position of the yassels of the squadron — Lines to the expeditious in search of Sir John Frankhn IITTRODUCTIOIS', The interest aroused both in this conntry and Europe, in regard to Sir John Franklin and his associates, has in no degree diminished by the fail- ure of the various Exploring Expeditions, to ascertain the fate of the great navigator. His well known intrepidity, his great experience and knowledge of the Arctic regions, the abundant supplies with which he was furnished, the various casualties which may have excluded 1dm from the observation of subse- quent navigators, and above all, the traces which have been discovered of him, have kept alive hopes, which, imder other circumstances, in the long lapse of time would have been utterly extinguished. The XIV INTRODUCTION. heroic woman, whose devotion to her gallant husband has made her name a household word in two conti- nents, whose appeals in his behalf have touched all hearts, and filled all eyes with tears, whose conduct has added another illustration of conjugal affection, of indomitable perseverance and courage, to the lon^ list of examples of woman's faith and woman's forti- tude, the wife of the lost Franklin still hojpes. Sho cannot believe that the sea has swallowed the gallant company under the guidance of her husband, or that the frosts of the Pole have benumbed their energies; no mounds of snow and ice are seen by her, as marking the place where they await the voice of the Archangel, and the trump of God ; before the vision of her mind, the frost-bound voyagers still appear, watching for some fi-iendly sail in the open channels of the frozen seas, stiU husbanding their resources, BtUl hoping against hope. She beholds them man- fully struggling with the difficulties of their position, seeking, during the short summer of the high latitudes, an avenue of escape, and engaged in the winter in protecting themselves from the cold, by walls of snow, and renewing their clothing with the spoils of the shaggy monarch of those solitudes, the polai bear, whose capture stimulates their energies and INTBODUCTIOHT. XV Invigorates their powers. "While sucli a hope is strong in the soul of this noble woman, it will live in the hearts of all Christendom until the lost are restored to home and kindred, or their graves are ft)und, and their forms, untouched by decay, recognized by the hardy mariners who brave the dangers of an Arctic Sea. "Who can tell if this lost company have not broken through into that open Ocean which^ is said to spread out beyond the barrier of ice, and found there a new world from which they cannot return to relate the story of- their marvelous voyage? "Who knows if they are not now reposing upon some island of that unknown Sea, where a modified climate, and a fertile soil furnish all the necessaries of life, or are vainly coasting along that wall of ice through which they unexpectedly entered, and from which they hope to escape by some opening like that in which they came ? Perhaps, curiosity overcoming love of home and kindred, they have explored or are now exploring the unknown world upon which they have been peiTnitted to enter, mapping its islands and bays, or passing on to the pole itself, full of high thoughts of the undying fame that will reward their toils, when the story of their return and their discoveries shall astonish the world, as when the JtVl INTRODUCTION. daring Genoese brought back to Spain and Europw tbe proofs of tbe existence of tlie continent which should have borne his name. The diicoverj of a northwest passage to the Indies, was the first object of the daring navigators who explored the northern seas ; the pursuit of the whale has since led a multitude of vessels among the ice- bergs and ice-fields of the frozen ocean. Any furthei expenditure of treasure, or hazard of life for the former purpose is uncalled for — a mere waste of ma terial and a tempting of jDrovidence. Enough ig known to settle the question that any passage forced through those seas to Asia, would be too hazardous and too uncertain to render it of the least com- mercial advantage. The path to China marked out by nature, or rather by the God of nature, is by the isthmus which separates iTorth and South America, and all ideas of an available northwest passage are simply Utopian. For the perfecting of the geography of the earth, for the purpose of ascertaining whether an open ocean, and a modified climate, and a pro- ductive soil are to be found beyond the fields of ice, may be worthy the efforts of civilized nations, yet it might be questioned whether the hardships of the navigation, and the risk of life in those remote INTKODUOTIOJS. XVii solitudes, would not justify an abandonment of a re- gion guarded by, sucb awful barriers, which could only be passed occasionally in the lapse of years. If it should appear, that a land like the garden of Eden lay beyond the domain of frost, how could it be made practically accessible, or used for the benefit J mankind ? Would it not forever remain like that hidden city in the desert, which, according to the eastern fable, is concealed fi-om all passers by, and only some favored traveler is perhaps once in a century permitted to gaze upon its deserted streets and behold its towers and palaces ; or like the lost A^tlantis, would it not be discovered only to disap oear forever? For the rescue of the long lost company of Sir Tohn Franklin, or for the purpose of ascertaining heir fate, too much can hardly be done. In such an enterprise, the noblest sympathies of our nature cannot fail to be enlisted, and higher and m^ore worthy of remembrance than the conflict of arms, or the rivalry of the nations in their fa'^ilcs at the recent great fair of the world in the modern Baby- lor lias Deen the competition between England and the United States, in the voyages of discovery for the groat arctic navigator, and his companions. In XVlll IISrTKODUCTION. such a contest the bonds of national brotherhood are strengthened, the friendship of the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race, who, descended from the same ancestry and speaking the same tongne, have been intrusted by the divine providence w4th the guardianship of civil and religions freedom, is cemented and made to soar above the petty rivahies, jijid the petty provocations, which have heretofore so often disturbed the good understanding which ought es^er to prevail between those who are brethren in blood, who have a common ancestry, a common lan- guage, and a common faith. Despotism like a dark cloud is gathering over Europe ; France, after numer- •jiis revolutions, and a multitude of gra^idiloquent protestations for freedom, has tamely yielded to a niiiitary dictatorship more degrading than the rule of her most despotic monarchs, and nothing marks licr incapacity for liberty, her profound social cor- ruption and the utter loss even of the heroic element tluit characterized her in the worst days of the Bour- uou dynasty, than the character of the man who has seized the reins of government. The shadow, or rather the mockery of a great name, with no repu- tation as a soldier, wdth no ability as a statesman, the dissolute and degenerate nephew of the gre^-^ INTEODUCTION. XIX Warrior, holds J'rance under a rule more disgraceful to her than that of Louis XY., of whose vices he is an apt imitator. Under such circumstances, the con- tinued friendship of Great Britain and the United States, is essential to the highest interests of our common humanity. Together they may defy tlie world in arms, and blockade the ports of all the des- potic powers on the globe, and every generous con- cert of action, every noble rivalry like that which sent our ships in search for the lost Franklin, is an omen of good to the world, and a pledge that despotism is not to shroud the nations in darkness, superstition, and ignorance. The vast conspiracy which is now organizing from St. Petersburg to Paris, and from the Baltic to the Caspian, against a free press, free government and free speech, can only be defeated by the constant friendship and united resistance of the Anglo-Saxon race on both continents. It is not a little remarkable that the American expedition should have originated in private benev- olence, and that to the enlightened liberality of a single individual, the country owes an enterprise which reflects so much credit upon our republic. We read in the Scriptures of ancient nations and <:\t:r:-. '-'aIiap? t'^' rclrntf^ Avcrc |);i]K-':s : " if this expression in the Bible implies what it does in mod ern parlance, we may congratulate ourselves that we possess a similar description of citizens — merchants who are princes, not in the magnificence which apes the pomp of royalty, but in the large and liberal spirit that exhibits itself in acts of generosity and munificence, which may be termed princely in respect to ,the grandeur of their conception, and tht? efiiciency of their execution. The true genius and character of a people may be tested by the examples of individuals, no less than by their institutions and laws. The illustrious citi- zens of the ancient republics are the memoriak and proofs of their national greatness. As the Eoman mother said of her children, "these are my jewels," so the Commonwealth may say of her distinguished sons, for they are the glory and the crown of the State. The name of Henkt Geinnell, in connection with the expedition in search of Franklin, will survive all the marble and granite of the city of his residence. He might say with, truth with the Latin Poet, " Exegi moTiumeritiim ?ere perennius." "Whatever is done for truth or for humanity, sur- vives 'Ti tli.e reine:ii!'.rn"nce r^f nil n2;eR : tlie star oi INTRODUCTION . XX] a Howard culminates above those of all the heroes and conqnerers who have filled the earth with vio- lence, and the merchant prince who ^ent his ships into the Arctic Seas, to search for the lost of imother nation and people, is entitled to the plau- dits of his country and his race. I:Tor should the commander, officers, and seamen )f the American expedition be forgotten by the gov- ernment, or their countrymen. In the dangerous service in which they voluntarily engaged, they ex- liibited the courage and hardihood, the coolness and forethought which have characterized the brightest examples in our naval history. The narrative of fcheir hazardous voyage, so far as it has been made public, reflects the highest credit upon all concerned, and has added new luster to the annals of American seamanship. The naval service is the right arm of the Republic; no power on earth can assail us while the ocean is covered with our ships. Great Britain came out of ihe contest with ITapoleon and the continent with safety and success, only because she acquired and kept the dominion of the sea ; it is her naval supe- riority, which now delays the Autocrat of the IS'orth i*-n iiiq contemplated subjugation of Europe, a^*-' &Xn INTRODUCTION. prevents his immediate occupation of Constantinople as the seat of his new Empire. 'Nov is it merely the nmnber of men-of-war which are kept afloat, that creates the naval superiority of a country, l^ut that extensive commerce which constitutes a nursery of seamen, whose numbers, knowledge, and courage may be made available in the hour of danger. In no respect have our countrymen so uniformly dis- tinguished themselves, as in their naval exploits, no- where have they been so successful, as on the ocean, and the safety of the country is more connected with this department of defense than any other. While such men as Commander De Haven, Griitith, and such crews can be mustered from the naval service of the United States, our shores are safe from foreign invasion, and our coimtry from all assaults save those of the demon of domestic discord ; if we perish, it ^11 be suicidally. While every christian and philanthropist will earn- estly desire and pray for the day w^hen men shal' learn war no more, when " the sword shall be beater into a plowshare, and the spear into a pruning hook," it is the height of folly to presume that an} such period 'e at hand — to blind our eyes to the evi- dent toVpvr of an approaching contest which is to INTRODUCTION. xxiii shake the earth, and from which we can only escape scathless bj a position and a force which will com- pel respect for our rights, and protect our neutrality, if it be possible to maintain this position in a con- test waged for the destruction of civil and religious liberty. The narrative of the American expedition cannot fail to enlist the sympathies of the country more earnestly in behalf of those "Whose march is on the mountain wave, Whose home is on the deep," and kindle generous emotions in all hearts. We hope it may find a place in every habitation throughout the length and breadth of oar extended country. ^ THE PEOGRESS OP ARCTIC DISCOVERT m THE JSraSTETEENTH CENTUEY. If we examine a map of l^orthern, or Arctic, Amer- ica, showino^ what was known of the countries around tlie ISTorth Pole in the commencement of the present century, we shall find that all within the Arctic circle was a complete blank. Mr. Hearne had, indeed, seen the Arctic Sea in the year 1^71 ; and My. Mackenzie had traced the river which now bears his name to its junc- tion with the sea ; but not a single line of the coast from Icy Cape to Baffin's Bay was known. The east- 'ern and western shores of Greenland, to about 75° lat- itude, were tolerably well defined, Irom the visits of whpJing vessels ; Hudson's Bay and Strait were pp.r-. tially known; but Baffin's Bay, according to the state- 'ment.of Mr. Bafiin, in 1616, was bounded by land on the west, running parallel with the 90th meridian of longitude, or across what is now known to us as Bar- row's Strait, and probably this relation led to the^sub- j sequently formed hasty opinion of Captain Sir John Ross, as to his visionary Croker Mountains, of which I shall have occasion to speak hereafter. As early as the year 1527, the idea of a pa^ssage to tlie East Indies by the Korth Pole was suggested by a 26 niuGUKSS OI' ARCTIC DISCO VEPcY. Bristol merchant to Henrj YIII., but no voyage seems to have been undertaken for the purpose of navigating the Polar seas, till the commencement of the following century, when an expedition was fitted out at the ex- pense of certain merchants of London. To this attempt several others succeeded at different periods, and all of them were projected and carried into execution by private individuals. The adventurers did not indeed accomplish the object they exclusively sought, that of reaching India by a nearer route than doubling the Cape of Good Hope, but though they failed in that respect, the fortitude, perseverance, and skill which they manifested, exhibited the most irrefragable proofs of the early existence of that superiority in naval af- fairs, which has elevated this country to her present eminence among the nations of Europe. At length, after the lapse of above a century and a half, this interesting quedion became an object of Koyal patronage, and the expedition which was com- manded by Captain Phipps (afterward Lord Mulgrave,) in 1773, was fitted out at the charge of Government. The first proposer of this voyage was the Hon. Daines Barrington, F. R. S., who, with indefatigable assiduity, began to collect every fact tending to establish the practicability of circumnavigating the Pole, and as he accumulated his materials, he read them to the Royal Society, who, in consequence of these representations, made that application to Lord Sandwich, then Pirst Lord of the Admiralty, which led to the appointment of this first official voyage. Captain Phipps, however, found it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80° and 81°, to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were the Racehorse, and Carcass ; Captain Lutwidge being his second in command, in the latter vessel, and hav- ing with him, then a mere boy, Nelson, the future hero of England. From the year 1648, when the famous Russian navi- fitor, Senor Deshnew, penetrated from the river olyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the INTliUDL'CTION. 27 Russians have been as arduous in their attempts to dis- cover a northeast passage to the north of Cape Shel- atskoi, as the English have been to sail to the north- west of the American continent, through Baffin's Bay and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacilic, many efforts, have, within the last century, been made to further this object. In 1741, the celebrated Captain Behring discovered the straits which bear his name, as we are informed by MuUer, the chronicler of Russian discoveries, and several subsequent commanders of that nation seconded his endeavors to penetrate from the American continent to the northeast. Erom t>he period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition, to the year 1764, when Admiral Tchitschagof, an indefatiga- ble and active officer, endeavored to force a passage round Spitzbergen, (which, although he attempted with a resolution and skill which would fall to the lot of few, he was unable to effect,) and thence to the present times, including the arduous efforts of Captain Billings and Yancouver, and the more recent one of M. Yon Wrangell, the Russians have been untiring in their at- tempts to discover a passage eastward,, to the north of Cape Taimur and Cape Shelatskoi. And cei;tainly, if skill, perseverance, and courage, could have opened this passage, it would have been accomplished. Soon after the general peace of' Europe, when war's alarms had given way to the high pursuits of science, the government recommenced the long-suspended work of prosecuting discoveries within the Arctic circle. An expedition was dispatched under the command of Sir John Ross, in order to explore the scene of the former labors of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted vvith the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which Barrington and Beaufoy had in the last age so enthu- siastically advocated, our nautical adventurers by no means relinquished the long-cherished chimera. It must be admitted, however, that the testimony of Parry and Franklin pass for much on the other side of the question. Both these officers, whose researches in the cause of scientific discovery entitle therr ' o very *2S PROGRESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. high respect, have declared it as their opinion that such a passage does not exist to the north of the 75th degree of latitude. Captain Parry, in the concluding remarks of his first voyage, (vol. ii. p. 241,) says — " Of the existence of a northwest passage to the Pacific, it is now scarcely possible to doubt, and from the success which attended our efibrts in 1819, after passing through Sir James Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anti- cipating its complete accomplishment," &c. And Franklin, in the eleventh chapter of his work, is of the same opinion, as to the practicability of such a passage But in no subsequent attempt, either by themselves or others, has this long sought desideratum been ac- complished ; impediments and barriers seem as thickly thrown in its way as ever.* An expedition was at length undertaken for the sole purpose of reaching the [N'orth Pole, with a view to the ascertainment of philosophical questions. It was planned and placed under the command of Sir Edward Parry, and here first the elucidation of phenomena connected with this imaginary axis of our planet formed the primary object of investigation . . My space and purpose in this work will not permit me to go into detail by examining what Barrow justly terms " those brilliant periods of early English enter- prise, so conspicuously displayed in every quarter of the globe, but in none, probably, to greater 'advantage than in those bold and persevering efibrts to pierce through frozen seas, in their little slender barks, of the most miserable description, ill provided with the means either of comfort or safety, without charts or instru- ments, or any previous knowledge of the cold and in- bospitable region through which they had to force and to feel their way ; their vessels oft beset amidst end- less fields of ice, and threatened to be overwhelmed with instant destruction from the rapid whirling and bursting of those huge floating masses, known by the * Colonial Mngp:;inf', ^'ol. xiii, p. H'JO INTKODUCTIUN. 29 name of icebergs. Yet so powerfully infused into the minds of Britons was the spirit of enterprise, that some of the ablest, the most learned, and most respect- able men of the times, not only lent their countenance and support to expeditions fitted out for the discovery of new lands, but strove eagerly, in their own persons, to share in the glory and the danger of every daring adventure." To the late Sir John Barrow, F. R. S., for so long a period secretary of the Admiralty, and who, in early life, himself visited the Spitzbergen seas, as high as the 80th parallel, we are mainly indebted for the ad- vocacy and promotion of the several expeditions, and the investigations and inquiries set on foot in the pres- ent century, and to the voyages which have been hith- erto so successfully carried out as regards the interests of science and our knowledge of the Polar regions. Although it is absurd to impute the direct responsi- bility for these expeditions to any other quarter than the several administrations during which they were undertaken, there can be no question but that these enterprises originated in Sir John Barrow's able and zealous exhibition, to our naval authorities, of the several facts and arguments upon which they might best be justified and prosecuted as national objects. The general anxiety now prevailing respecting the fate of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions, throws at this moment somewhat of a gloom on the subject, but it ought to be remembered that, up to the present period, our successive Polar voyages have, without exception, given , occupation to the energies and gallantry of IBritish seamen, and have extended the realms of magnetic and general science, at an ex- pense of lives and money quite insignificant, compared with the ordinary dangers and casualties of such expe- ditions, and that it must be a very narrow spirit and view of the subject which can raise the cry of y'^C^d hono^'' and counsel us to relinquish the honor and peril of such enterprises to Kussia and the United States c^' 30 PROGRKSS OF AkCTIO pISCOVEKY. . It can scarcely be deemed out of place to give here a short notice of the literary labors of this excellent and talented man, as I am not aware that such an out- line has appeared before. Sir John Barrow was one of the chief writers for the Quarterly Review, and his articles in that journal amount to nearly 200 in number, forming, v/hen bound up, twelve separate volumes. All those relating to the Arctic Expeditions, &c., which created the great- , est interest at the period they were published, wsre from his pen, and consist chiefly of the following pa- pers, commencing from the 18th volume; — On Polar Ice ; On Behring's Straits, and the Polar Basin ; On Ross's Yoyage to Baffin's Bay ; On Parry's First Yoy- age ; Kotzebue's Yoyage ; Franklin's First Expedition ; Parry's Second and Third Yoyages, and Attempt to Reach the Pole ; Franklin's Second Expedition ; Lyon's Yoyage to Repulse Bay ; Back's Arctic Laud Expe- dition, and his Yoyage of the Terror. Besides these he published " A Chronological. History of Yoyages to the Arctic Seas," and afterward a second volume, " On the Yoyages of Discovery and Research within the Arctic Regions." He also wrote lives of Lord Macartney, 2 vols. 4to ; of Lord Anson and Howe, each 1 vol. 8vo ; of Peter the Great; and an Account of the Mutiny of the Bounty, (in the " Family Library ; ") " Travels in Southern Africa," 2 vols, 4to; and "Travels in China aud Cochin China," each 1 vol. 4to. In the " Encyclopedia Britannica " are ten or twelve of his articles, and he wrote one in the Edin- burgh Review by special request. In addition to these Sir John Barrow prepared for the press innumerable MSS. of travelers in all parts of the globe,' the study of geography being his great deliglit, as is evidenced by his having founded the Royal Geographical Society of London, which now \)<\]ih so liigh and influential a position in the learned ;!••.! i^cientific world, and has advanced so materially ih •>;••> .--e^s i)t' discovery and researcli in all parts of I2iTJiODUCTION. Ui the globe. Lastly, Sir John Barrow, not long before his death, published his own autobiography, in which he records the labors, the toil, and adventure, of a loi*g and honorable public life. Sir John Barrow has described, with voluminous caie and minute research, the arduous services of all the chief Arctic voyagers by sea and land, and to his voi ume I must refer those who wish to obtain more exteu sive details and particulars of the voyages of preceding centuries. He has also graphically set forth, to use his own words, " their several characters and conduct, so uniformly displayed in their unflinching perseverance in difficulties of no ordinary description, their patient endurance of extreme suffering, borne without mur- muring, and with an equanimity and fortitude of mind under the most appalling distress, rarely, if ever, equaled, and such as could only be supported by a superior degree of moral courage and resignation to the Divine will — displaying virtues like those of no ordinary caste,' and such as will not fail to excite the sympathy, and challenge the admiration of every right- feeling reader." Hakluyt, in his " Chronicle of Voyages," jnstly ob- serves, that we should use much care in preserving the memories of the worthy acts of our nation. The different sea voyages and land journeys of the present century toward the Korth Pole have redounded to the honor of our country, as well as reflected credit on the characters and reputation, of the officers engaged in them ; and it is to these I confine my observations. The progress of discovery in the Arctic regions has been slow but progressive, and much still within the limits of practical navigation remains yet unexplored. As Englishmen, we must naturally wish that discov- eries which were first attempted by the adventurous spirit and maritime skill of our countrymen, should be finally achieved by the same means. " Wil it not," says the worthy ' preacher,' Hakluyt, " in all posteritie be as great a renown vnto our En-- glish natione, to have beene the first discouerers of a o2 PKOGliESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ^-ea beyond the JSTorth Cape, (neiier certainely knowen before,) and of a conuenient passage into the huge em- pire of Kussia by the Bale of St. ]J^icholas and "of the Riuer of Diiina, as for the Portugales, to have found a sea beyond the Cape of Buona Esperanza, and so consequently a passage by sea into the East Indies ? " I cordially agree with the Quarterly Eeview, tha' ''neither the country nor the naval service will ever believe they have any cause to regret voyages which, in the eyes of foreigners and posterity, must confer lasting honor upon both." The cost of these voyages has not been great, while the consequences will be permanent ; for it iias been well remarked, by a late writer, that " the record of enterprising hardihood, physical endurance, and steady perseverance, displayed in overcoming elements the most adverse, will long remain among the worthiest memorials of human enterprise." " How shall I admire, " says Purchas, " your heroic courage, ye marine worthies, beyond* all names of worthiness ! that neyther dread so long eyther the presence or absence of the sunne ; nor those foggy mysts, tempestuous winds, cold blasts, snowe and hayle in the ayre ; nor the unequall seas, which might amaze the hearer, and amate the beholder, when the Tritons and ]N'eptune's selfe would quake with chilling feare to behold such monstrous icie ilands, renting themselves with terror of their own massines, and dis- dayning otherwise both the sea's sovereigntie and the sunne's hottest violence, mustering themselves in those watery plaines where they hold a continual civill warre, and rushing one upon another, make windes and waves give backe ; seeming to rent the eares of others, while they rent themselves with crashing and splitting their congealed armors." So thickly are the Polar seas of the northern hemi- sphere clustered with lands, that the long winter months serve to accumulate filed ice to a prodigious extent, sg as to form an almost impenetrable barrier of hypei horean frost — INTRODUCTION. 33 " A ciystal pavement by the breath of Heaven Cemented firm." Although there are now no new continents left to discover, our intrepid British adventurers are but too eager to achieve the bubble reputation, to hand down their names to future ages for patient endurance, zeal, and enteiprise, by explorations of the hidden mys- teries of — " the frigid zone, Where, for relentless months, continual night Holds o'er the gUttering waste her stany light ; '* by undergoing perils, and enduring privations and dangers which the mind, in its reflective moments, shudders to contemplate. It is fair to conjecture that, so intense is the cold, and so limited the summer, and consequently so short the time allowed for a transit within the Arctic circle, from Baffin's Bay to Behring's Straits, that a passage, even if discovered, will never be of any use as a chan- nel. It is not likely that these expeditions would ever have been persevered in with so much obstinacy, had the prospects now opening on the world of more prac- ticable connections with the East been known forty years ago. Hereafter, when the sacred demands of humanity have been answered, very little more will be heard about the northwest passage to Asia ; which, if ever found, must be always hazardous and pro- tracted, when a short and quick one can be accom- plished by railroads through America, or canals across the Isthmus. A thorough knowledge of the relative'boundaries of land and ocean on this our globe has, in all ages and by all countries, been considered one of the most im- portant desiderata, and one of the chief features of popular information. But to no country is this knowledge of such prac- tical utility and of such essential importance, as to a maritime nation like Great Britain, whose mercantile marine visits every port, whose insular position ren- ders her completely dependent upon distant quarters 3 34 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. for half the necessary supplies, whether of food or lux- ury, which her native population consume, or which the arts and manufactures, of which she is the empo- rium, require. With a vast and yearly increasing dominion, cover- ing almost every region of the habitable globe, — the chart of our colonies being a chart of the wo^-ld in out- line, for we sweep the globe and touch every shore, — it becomes necessary that we should keep pace with the progress of colonization, by enlarging, wherever possible, our maritime discoveries, completing and veri- fying our nautical surveys, improving our meteorologi- cal researches, opening up new and speedier perodical pathways over the oceans which were formerly trav- ersed with so much danger, doubt, and difficulty, and maintaining our superiority as the greatest of maritime nations, by sustaining that high and distinguished rank for naval eminence which has ever attached to the British name. The arduous achievements, however, of our nautical discoverers have seldom been appreciated or rewarded as they deserved. We load our naval and military heroes — the men who guard our wooden walls and successfully fight our battles — with titles and pen- sions ; we heap upon these, and deservedly so, princely remuneration and a^l manner of distinctions; but for the heroes whose p^itient toil and protracted endurance far surpass the turmoil of war, who peril their lives in the cause of science, many of whom fall victims to pestilential climates, famine, and the host of dangers which environ the voyager and traveler in unexplored lands and unknown seas, we have only a place in the niche of fame. What honors did England, as a maritime nation, con- fer on Cook, the foremost of her naval heroes, — a man whose life was sacrificed for his country ? His widow had an annuity of 200Z., and his surviving children 251. each per annum. And this is the reward paid to the most eminent of our naval discoverers, before whom Cabot, Drake, Frobisher, Magellan, Anson, and mTEODTJCTION. 35 the arctic adventurers, Hudson and Baffin, — althongh all eminent for their discoveries and the important services they rendered to the cause of nautical sci- ence, — sink into insignificance ! If we glance at the results of Cook's voyages we find that to him we are indebted for the innumerable discoveries of islands and colonies planted in the Pacific; that he determined the conformation, and surveyed the numerous bays and inlets, of JSTew Holland ; established the geogra- phical position of the northwestern shores of America ; ascertained the trending of the ice and frozen shores to the north of Behring's Straits ; approached nearer the South Pole, and made more discoveries in the Austra- iian regions, than .^lU the navigators who had preceded him. On the very shores of their vast empire, at the extremity of Kamtschatka, his active genius first taught the Russians to examine the devious trendings of the lands which border the Frozen Ocean, in the neighborhood of the Arctic circle. He explored both the eastern and western coasts above Behring's Straits to so high a latitude as to decide, beyond doubt, the question as to the existence of a passage round the two continents. He showed the Russians how to navigate the dangerous seas between the old and the new world ; for, as Coxe has remarked, " before his time, every thing was uncertain and confused, and though they had undoubtedly reached the continent of Amer- ica, yet they had not ascertained the line of coast, nor the separation or vicinity of the two continents of Asia and America." Coxe, certainly, does no more than justice to his illustrious countryman when he adds, " the solution of this important problem was reseiwed for our great navigator, and every Englishman must exult that the discoveries of Cook were extended fur- ther in a single expedition, and at the distance of half the globe, than the Russians accomplished in a long series of years, and in a region contiguous to their own empire." Look at Weddell, again, a private trader in seal- skins, who, in a frail bark of 160 tons, made important 36 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. discoveries in the Antarctic circle, and a voyage of greater length and peril, through a thousand miles of ice, than had previously been performed by any navi- gator, paving the way for the more expensively fitted expedition under Sir James Ross. Was Yv^eddell re- munerated on a scale commensurate with his important services ? Half a century ago the celebrated Bruce of Kinnaird, by a series of soundings and observations taken in the Bed Sea, now the great highway of overland eastern traffic, rendered its navigation more secure and punc- tual. How was he rewarded by the then existing min- istry ? Take a more recent instance in the indefatigable energy of Lieutenant Waghorn, E,. ]^., the enterprising pioneer of the overland route to India. What does not the commerce, the character, the reputation, of this country owe to his indefatigable exertions, in bringing the metropolis into closer connection with our vast and important Indian empire ? And what was the reward he received for the sacrifices he made of time, money, hQalth and life ? A paltry annuity to himself of lOOZ., and a pension to his widow of 261. per annum ! Is it creditable to us, as the first naval power of the world, that we should thus dole out miserable pittances, or entirely overlook the successful patriotic exertions and scientific enterprises and discoveries of private adventurers, or public commanders ? The attractions of a summer voyage along the bays and seas where the sun shines for four months at a time, exploring the bare rocks and everlasting ice, w4th no companion but the white bear or the Arctic fox, may be all very romantic at a distance ; but the mere thought of a winter residence thep, frozen fast in some solid ocean, with snow a dozen feet deep, the thermometer ranging from 40° to 50° below zero, and not a glimpse of the blessed sun from l^ovember to February, is enough to give a chill to all adventurous notions. But the officers and men engaged in the searching expedi- tions after Sir John Franklin have calmly weighed all FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN EOSS. 37 these difficulties, and boldly gone forth to encounter the perils and dangers of these icy seas for the sake of their noble fellow-sailor, whose fate has been so long a painful mystery to the world. It has been truly observed, that " this is a service for which all officers, however brave and intelligent they may be, are not equally qualified ; it requires a peculiar tact, an inquisitive and persevering pursuit after details of fact, not always interesting, a contempt of danger, and an enthusiasm not to be damped by ordinary difficulties." The records which I shall have to give in these pages of voyages and travels, unparalleled in their perils, their duration, and the protracted sufferings which many of them entailed on the adventurers, will bring out in bold relief the prominent characters who have figured in Arctic Discovery, and whose names will descend to posterity, emblazoned on the scroll of fame, for their bravery, their patient endurance, their skill, and, above all, their firm trust and reliance on that Almighty Being who, although He may have tried them sorely, has never utterly forsaken them. Capt. John Eoss's Yotage, 1818. In 1818, His Koyal Highness the Prince Eegent having signified his pleasure that an attempt should be made to find a passage by sea between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty were pleased to fit out four vessels to pro- ceed toward the North Pole, under the command of Captain John Ross. 'No former expedition had been fitted out on so extensive a scale, or so completely equipped in every respect as this one. The circum- stance which mainly led to the sending out of these vessels, was the open character of the bays and seas in those regions, it having been observed for the pre- vious three years that very unusual quantities of the polar ice had floated dovv^n into the Atlantic. In the 38 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVERT. year 181T, Sir John Barrow relates that the eastern coast of Greenland, which had been shut up with ice for four centuries, was found to be accessible from the 70th to the 80th degree of latitude, and the interme- diate sea between it and Spitzbergen was so entirely open in the latter parallel, Tbat a Hamburgh ship had actually sailed along this track. On the 15th of January, 1818, the four ships were put in commission — the Isabella, 385 tons, and the Alexander, 252 tons — under Captain Ross, to proceed up the middle of Davis' Strait, to a high northern lati- tude, and then to stretch across to the westward, in the hope of being able to pass the northern extremity of America, and reach Behring's Strait by that route. Those destined for the Polar sea were, the Dorothea, 382 tons, and the Trent, 249 tons, which were ordered to proceed between Greenland and Spitzbergen, and seek a passage through an open Polar sea, if such should be found in that direction. I shall take these voyages in the order of their pub- lication, Ross having given to the world the account of his voyage shortly after his return in 1819: while the narrative of the voyage of the Dorothea and Trent was only published in 18'13, by Captain Beechey, who served as Lieutenant of the Trent, during the voyage. The following were the officers, &c., of the ships under Captain Ross : — IsciheTla, Captain — John Ross. Lieutenant — ^"W. Robertson. Purser — W. Thom. Surgeon — John Edwards. Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. Admiralty Midshipmen — A. M. Skene and James Clark Ross. Midshipman and Clerk — J. Bushnan. Greenland Pilots — B. Lewis, master; T. "Wilcox, mate. Captain (now Colonel) Sabine, R. A. FIRST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN- KOSS. 39 45 petty officers, seamen, and marines. Whole complement, 5T. Alexander, . Lieutenant and Commander — William Edward Parry, (now Captain Sir Edward.) Lieutenant — H. H. Hoopner, (a first rate artist.) Purser — W. H. Hooper. Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; J. Philips, mate. Admiralty Midshipmen — P. Bisson and J.JN'ius. Assistant Surgeon — A. Fisher. Clerk — J. Halse. 28 petty officers, seamen, &c. Whole complement, 3T. On the 2d of May, the four vessels being reported fit for sea, rendezvoused in Brassa Sound, Shetland, and the two expeditions parted company on the follow- ing day for their respective destinations. On the 26th, the Isabella fell in with the first ice- berg, which appeared to be about forty feet high and a thousand feet long. It is hardly possible to imagine any thing more exquisite than the variety of tints which these icebergs display ; by uight as well as by day they glitter with a vividness of color beyond the power of art to represent. While the white portions have the brilliancy of silver, their colors are as various and splendid as those of the rainbow ; their ever-changing disposition producing effects as singular as they are new and interesting to those who have not seen them before. On the 17th of June, they reached Waygatt Sound, beyond Disco Island, where they found forty-five whalers detained by the ice. Waygatt Island, from observations taken on shore, was found to be 5° longi- tude and 30 miles of latitude from the situation as laid down in the Admiralty Charts. They were not able to get away from here till the 20th, when the ice began to break. By cutting passages 4:0 PEOaRESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. through the ice, and by dint of towing and warping, a slow progress was made with the ships until the 17th of July, when two ice-floes closing in upon them, threatened inevitable destruction, and it was only by the greatest exertions that they hove through into open water. The labors of warping, towing, and tracMng were subsequently very severe. This tracking, al- though hard work, afforded great amusement to the men, giving frequent occasion for the exercise of their wit, when some of the men occasionally fell in through holes covered with snow or weak parts of the ice. Yery high mountains of land and ice were seen to the north side of the bay, which he named Melville's Bay, forming an impassable barrier, the precipices next the sea being from 1000 to 2000 feet high. On the 29th of June, the Esquimaux, John Sacheuse, who had accompanied the expedition from England as interpreter, was sent on shore to communicate with the natives. About a dozen came off to visit the ship, and, after being treated with coffee and biscuit in the cabin, and having their portraits taken, they set to dancing Scotch reels on the deck of the Isabella with the sailors. Captain Eoss gives a pleasant description of this scene — " Sacheuse's mirth and joy exceeded all bounds ; and with a good-humored officiousness, justi- fied by the important distinction which his superior knowledge now gave him, he performed the office of master of the ceremonies. An Esquimaux M. C. to a ball on the deck of one of H. M. ships in the icy seas of Greenland, was an office somewhat new, but ISTash himself could not have performed his functions in a manner more appropriate. It did not belong even to Nash to combine in his own person, like Jack, the dis- cordant qualifications of seaman, interpreter, draughts- man, and master of ceremonies to a ball, with those of an active fisher of seals and a hunter of white bears. A daughter of the Danish resident (by in Esquimaux woman,) about eighteen years of age, and by far the best looking of the half-caste group, was the ©bjsct of FIEST VOYAGE OF CAPTAm ROSS. 41 Jack's particular attentions ; which being observed by- one of our officers, he gave him a lady's shawl, orna- mented with spangles, as an offering for her acceptance. He presented it in a most respectful, and not ungrace- ful manner to the damsel, who bashfully took a pew- ter ring from her finger and gave it to him in return, rewarding him, at the same time, with an eloquent smile, which could leave no doubt on our Esquimaux's mind that he had made an impression on her heart."* On the 5th of August the little auks (Mergulfus alle,) were exceedingly abundant, and many were shot for food, as was also a large gull, two feet five inches in length, which, when killed, disgorged one of these little birds entire. A fortnight later, on two boats being sent from the Isabella to procure as many of these birds as possible, for the purpose of preserving them in ice, they re- turned at midnight with a boat-load of about 1500, having on an average, killed fifteen at each shot. The boats of the Alexander were nearly as successful. These birds were afterward served daily to each man, and, among other ways of dressing them, they were found to make excellent soup — not inferior to hare soup. 'Not less than two hundred auks were shot on the 6th of August, and served out to the ships' compa- nies, among whose victuals they proved an agreeable variety, not having the fishy flavor that might be ex- pected from their food, which consists of Crustacea, small fishes, mollusca, or marine vegetables. On the Yth of August the ships were placed in a most critical situation by a gale of wind. The Isabella was lifted by the pressure of ice floes on each side of her, and it was doubted whether the vessel could long withstand the grips and concussions she sustained ; " every support threatened to give way, the beams in the hold began to bend, and the iron water-tanks settled together. The two vessels were thrown with violent concussion against each other, the ice-anchors * Vol I, p. 67, 68. 2* 42 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERT. and cables broke one after the other, a boat at tlie stern was smasbed in tbe collision, and the masts were hourly expected to go by the board ; but at this juncture, when certain destruction was momentarily looked for, by the merciful interposition of Providence the fields of ice suddenly opened and formed a clear passage for the ships." * A singular physical feature was noticed on the part of the coast near Cape Dudley Digges : — " We have discovered, (says Ross,) that the snow on the face of the cliffs presents an appearance both novel and inter- esting, being apparently stained or covered by some substance which gave it a deep crimson color. This snow was penetrated in many places to a depth of ten or twelve feet by the coloring matter." There is noth- ing new, however, according to Barrow, in the discov- ery of red snow. Pliny, and other writers of his time mention it. Saussure found it in various parts of the Alps ; Martin found it in Spitzbergen, and no doubt it is to be met with in most alpine regions. In the course of this tedious, and often laborious progress through the ice, it became necessary to 'keep the whole of the crew at the most fatiguing work, some- times for several days and nights without intermission. When this was the case, an extra meal was served to them at midnight, generally of preserved meat ; and it was found that this nourishment, when the mind and body were both occupied, and the sun continually present, rendered them capable of remaining without sleep, so that they often passed three days in this man- ner without any visible inconvenience, returning after a meal to their labor on the ice or in the boats quite refreshed, and continuing at it without a murmur. After making hasty and very cursory examinations of Smith's and Jones' Sounds, Eoss arrived, on the 30th of August, off the extensive inlet, named by Baf- fin, Lancaster Sound. The entrance was perfectly clear, and the soundings ranged from 650 to 1000 fath- oms. I shall now quote Ross's own observations on this subject, because from his unfortunate report of a FIKST VOYAGE OF CAPTAIN KOSS. 4:3 range called the Croker mountains, stretching across this Strait, has resulted much of the ridicule and dis- credit which has attached to his accounts, and clouded his early reputation — " On the 31st (he says) we dis- covered, for the first time, that the land extended from the south two-thirds across this apparent Strait ; ^but the fog which continually occupied that quarter, ob- scured its real figure. During the day much interest was excited on board by the appearance of this Strait. The general opinion, however, was, that it was only an inlet. The land was partially seen extending across ; the yellow sky was perceptible. At a little before four o'clock A. M., the land was seen at the bottom of the inlet by the officers of the watch, but before I got on deck a s]5ace of about seven degrees of the compass was obscured by the fog. The land which I then saw was a high ridge of mountains extending directly across the bottom of the inlet. This chain appeared extremely high in the center. Although a passage in this direc- tion appeared hopeless, I was determined to explore it completely. I therefore continued all sail. Mr. Bev- erly, the surgeon, who was the most sanguine, went up to the crow's nest, and at twelve reported to me that before it became thick he had seen the land across the bay, except for a very short space. "At three, I went on deck ; it completely cleared for ten minutes, when I distinctly saw the land round the bottom of the bay, forming a chain of mountains con- nected with those which extended along the north and Bouth side. This land appeared to be at the distance of eight leagues, and Mr. Lewis,* the master, and James Haig, leading man, being sent for, they took its bear- ings, which were inserted in the log. At this moment I also saw a continuity of ice at the distance of seven miles, extending from one side of the bay to the other, between the nearest cape to the north, which I named after Sir George Warrender, and that to the south, which was named after Yis count Castlereagh. The mountains, which occupied the center, in a north and 44: PROGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCOVEKY. south direction, were named Croker's Mountains, after the Secretary to the Admiralty."* They next proceeded to Possession Bay, at the en- trance of the Strait, where a great many animals were observed. Deer, fox, ermine, bears, and hares, were either seen, or proved to be in abundance by their tracks, and the skeleton of a whale was found stranded about 500 yards beyond high-water-mark. Finding, as Koss supposed, no outlet through Lancaster Strait, the vessels continued their progress to the southward, ex- ploring the western coast of Baffin's Bay to Pond's Bay, and Booth's Inlet, discovering the trending of the land, which he named JSTorth Galloway, and North Ayr to Cape Adair, and Scott's Bay. ^ On September the 10th, they landed on an island near Cape Eglington, which was named Agnes' Monu- ment. A flag-staff and a bottle, with an account of their proceediugs was set up. The remains of a tem- porary habitation of some of the Esquimaux were here observed, with a fire-place, part of a human skull, a broken stone vessel, some bones of a seal, burnt wood, part of a sledge, and tracks of dogs, &c. ' While the boat was absent, two large bears swam off to the ships, which were at the distance of six miles from the land. They reached the Alexander, and were immediately attacked by the boats of that ship, and killed. One, which was shot through the head, unfor- tunately sank ; the other, on being wounded, attacked the boats, and showed -considerable play, but was at length secured and towed to the Isabella by the boats of both ships. The animal weighed 1131 i lbs., besides the blood it had lost, which was estimated at 30 lbs. more. On the following day, Lieut. Parry was sent on shore to examine an iceberg, which was found to be 4169 yards long, 3869 yards broad, and 51 feet high, being aground in 61 fathoms. When they had ascended to the top, which was perfectly flat, they found a huge * Vol I, p. 241-46, 8vo. ed. VOYAGE OF BUCHAN AIsTD FRANKLIN. 45 white bear in quiet possession of the mass, who, much, to their mortification and astonishment, plunged with- out hesitation into the sea from the edge of the preci- pice, which was fifty feet high. From careful observation it was found that there was no such land in the center of Davis' Strait as James' Island, which was laid down in most of the charts. l!^othing deserving of notice occurred in the subsequent course of the vessels past Cape Walsingham to Cum- berland Strait. The 1st of October having arrived, the limit to which his instructions permitted him to remain out, Ross shaped his course homeward, and after encountering a severe gale oif Cape Farewell, arrived in Grimsby Roads on the 14:th of ]^ovember. As respects the pur- pose of Arctic discovery, this voyage may be considered almost a blank, none of the important inlets and sounds of Bafiin's Bay having been explored, and all that was done was to define more clearly the land-bounds of Davis' Strait and Baffin's Bay, if we except the valu- able magnetic and other observations made by Captain Sabine. The commander of the expedition was pro- moted to the rank of captain on paying off the ships in December, 1818. The account of his voyage, published by Capt. Ross, is of the most meager and uninteresting description, and more than half filled with dry details of the outfit, copies of his instructions, of his routine letters and orders to his officers, &c. Bfchan and Fkankijn. Dorothea and Trent to Pole^ 1818. In conjunction with the expedition of Captain John Ross, was that sent out to the coast of Spitzbergen, and of which Captain Beechy has published a most inter- esting account, embellished with some very elegant illustrations from his pencil. The charge of it was given to Captain D. Buchan, who had, a few years pre- viously, conducted a very interesting expedition into 46 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. the interior of ^Newfoundland. The first and most im- portant object of this expedition was the discovery of a passage over or as near the Pole, as might be possible, and through Behring's Straits into the Pacific. But it was also hoped that it might at the same time be the means of improving the geography and hydrography of the Arctic regions, of which so little was at that time known, and contribute to the advancement of science and natural knowledge. The objects to which attention was specially pointed in the Admiralty instructions, were the variation and inclination of the magnetic nee- dle, the intensity of the magnetic force, and how far it is affected by atmospherical electricity ; the tempera- ture of the air, the dip of the horizon, refraction, height of the tides, set and velocity of the currents, depths and soundings of the sea. Collections of specimens to illustrate the animal, mineral and vegetable kingdoms, were also directed to be made. The officers and crew appointed to these vessels werp : Dorothea^ 382 tons. Captain — David Buchan. Lieutenant — A. Morell. Surgeon — John Duke. Assistant Surgeon — W. G. Borland. Purser — John Jermain. Astronomer — George Fisher. Admiralty Mates — C. Palmer and W. J. Dealy. Greenland Pilots — P. Bruce, master ; G. Crawfurd, mate. 45 petty officers, seamen, &c. Total complement, 55. Trent, 249 tons. Lieutenant and Commander — John Franklin. Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechy, (artist.) Purser — W. Barrett. Assistant Surgeon — A. GilfiUan. Admiralty Mates — A. Keid and George Back. Greenland Pilots — G. Fife, master ; G. Kirby, n^.: tained, precluded any possibility of reaching Repulse Bay, and therefore having but a day or two's provisions left, Franldin considered it prudent to turn back after reaching Point Turnagain, having sailed nearly 600 geographical miles in tracing the deeply indented coast of Coronation Gulf from the Coppermine River. On the 22d August, the return voyage was commenced, the boats making for Hood's River by the way of the Arctic Sound, and being taken as far up the stream as possible. On the 31st it was found impossible to pro- ceed with them farther, and smaller canoes were made, suitable for crossing any of the rivers that might ob- struct their progress. The weight carried by each man was about 90 lbs., and with this they progressed at the rate of a mile an hour, including rests. On the 5th of September, having nothing to eat, the last piece of pemmican and a little arrow-root having formed a scanty supper, and being without the means of making a fire, they remained in bed all day. A se- vere snow-storm lasted two days, and the snow even drifted into their tents, covering their blankets several inches. " Our suffering (says Franklin) from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in such weather, with the tem- perature at 20°, and without fire, will easily be im- agined ; it was, however, less than that which we felt from hunger." Weak from fasting, and their garments stiffened with the frost, after packing tj^eir fi-ozen tents and bedclothes the poor travelers agam set out on the 7th. After feeding almost exclusively on several species of Gyrophora, a lichen known as tHjpe de rochey which scarcely allayed the pangs of hunger, on the 10th " they got a good meal by killing a musk ox. To skin and cut up the animal was the work of a few minutes. The V2 PKOGEESS OF AKOTIC DISCaYEEY. contents of its Btomach were devoured upon the spot, antl the raw intestines, which were next attacked, wero pronounced bj the most delicate amongst us to te ex- cellent." Wearied and worn out with toil and sufi'ering, many of the ij&Ttj got careless and indifferent. One. of the canoes was broken and abandoned. With an improvi- dence scarcely to be credited, three of the fishing-nets were also thrown away, and the floats burnt. On the 17th they managed to allay the pangs of hun- ger pj eating pieces of singed hide, and a little tripe de roche. This and some mosses, with an occasional sol- itary partridge, formed their invariable food ; on very many days even this scanty supply could not be obtained, and their appetites became ravenous. Occasionally they picked up pieces of skin, and a few bones of deer which had been devoured hj the wolves in the previous spring. The bones Vv^ere ren- dered friable by burning, and now and then their old shoes were added to the repast. On the 26th they reached a bend of the Coppermine, which terminated in Point Lake. The second canoe had been demolished and abandoned by the bearers on the 23d, and they were thus left without any means of water transport across the lakes and river. On this day the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft of a rock, into which it had fallen in the spring. It was putrid, but little less acceptable t*o the poor starv- ing travelers on that account ; and a fire being kin- dled a large portion was devoured on the spot, afford- ing an unexpected breakfast. On the first of October one of the party, who had been out hunting, brought in the antlers and backbone of another deer, which had been killed in the summer. The wolves and birds of prey had picked them clean, but there still remained a quantity of the spinal mar- row, which they had not been able to extract. This, although putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine being divided into portions was distributed equally. " After eating the marrow, (says Franklin,) franklin's first land expedition. ,73 which was so acrid as to excoriate the lips, we ren- dered the bones friable by bnrning, and ate them also." The strength of the whole party now began to fail, from the privation and fatigue which they endured. — Franklin was in a dreadfully debilitated state. Mr. Hood was also reduced to a perfect shadow, from the severe bowel-complaints which the tri2?e de roche never failed to give him. Back was so feeble as to require the support of a stick in walking, and Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weakness. A rude canoe was constructed of willows, covered with canvass, in which the party, one by one, managed to reach in safety the southern bank of the river on the 4th of October, and went supperless to bed. On the following morning, previous to setting out, the whole party ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever scraps of leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs for the fatigue of the day's journey. Mr. Hood now broke down, as did two or three more of the party, and Dr. Richardson kindly volunteered to remain with them, while the rest pushed on to Fort Enterprise for succor. ISTot being able to find any tri2)e de Toclie^ Jthey drank an infusion of the Labrador tea- plant {Ledrum jpalustre^ var. decicmbens^ and ate a few morsels of burnt leather for supper. This contin- ued to be a frequent occurrence. Others of the party continued to drop down with fa- tigue and weakness, until they were reduced to five persons, besides Franklin. When they had no food or nourishment of any kind, they crept under their blank- ets, to drown, if possible, the gnawing pangs of hunger and fatigue by sleep. At length they reached Fort En- terprise, and to their disappointment and grief found it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no de- posit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr. Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be found. "It would be impossible (says Franklin,) to describe our sensations after entering this miserable abode, and discovering how we had been neglected : the whole party shed tears, not so much for our own 74 PBOaKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. fate as for that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended entirely on our sending immediate relief from this place." A note, however, was found here from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the house by another route two days before, and was going in search of the Indians. If he was unsuccessful in hnd- ing them, he proposed walking to Fort Providence, and sending succor from thence, but he doubted whether he or his party could perform the journey to that place in their present debilitated state. Franklin and his small party now looked round for some means of pres- ent subsistence, and fortunately discovered several deer skins, which had been thrown away during their former residence here. The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes ; these, wdth the skins and the addition of trijpe de roche^ they considered would support life tolerably well for a short time. The bones were quite acrid, and the soup extracted from them, quite putrid, excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it was some- what milder when boiled with the lichen, and the mix- ture was even deemed palatable with a little salt, of which a cask had been left here in the spring. They procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the rooms, and water for cooking by melting the snow. Augustus arrived safe after them, just as they were sitting round the fire eating their supper of singed skin. Late on the 13th, Belanger also reached the house, with a note from Mr. Back, stating that he had yet found no trace of the Indians. The poor messenger was almost speechless, being covered with ice and nearly frozen to death, having fallen into a rapid, and for the third time since the party left the coast, narrowly escaped drowning. After being well rubbed, having had his dress changed, and some warm soup given him, he recovered sufficiently to answer the questions put to him. Under the impression that the Indians must be on their way to Fort Providence, and that it would be possible to overtake them, as they usually traveled 75 slowly witli their families, and there being likewise a prospect of killing deer about Reindeer Lake, where they had been usually found abundant, Franklin* de- termined to take the route for that post, and sent word to Mr. Back by Belanger to that eifect on the 18th. On the 20th of October, Franklin set out in com- pany with Benoit and Augustus to seek relief, having patched three pairs of snow shoes, and taken some singed skin for their support. Poltier and Samandre had volunteered to remain at the house with Adam, who was too ill to proceed. They were so feeble as scarcely to be able to move. Augustus, the Esqui- maux, tried for fish without success, so that their only fare was skin and tea. At night, composing them- selves to rest, they lay close to each other for warmth, but found the night bitterly cold, and the wind pierced through their famished frames. On resuming the journey next morning, Franklin had the misfortune to break his snow-shoes, by falling between two rocks. This accident prevented him from keeping pace with the others, and in the attempt he became quite exhausted ; unwilling to delay their pro- gress, as the safety of all behind depended on their obtaining early assistance and immediate supplies, Franklin resolved to turn back, while the others pushed on to meet Mr. Back, or, missing him, they were directed to proceed to Fort Providence. Frank- lin found the two Canadians he had left at the house dreadfully weak and reduced, and so low spirited that he had great difficulty in rallying them to any exer- tion. As the insides of their mouths had become sore from eating the bone-soup, they now relinquished the use of it, and boiled the skin, which mode of dressing was found more palatable than frying it. They had pulled down nearly all their dwelling for fuel, to warm themselves and cook their scanty meals. The tri^pe de roche^ on which they had depended, now became entirely frozen; and what was more tantalizing to their perishing frames, was the sight of food within their reach, which they could not procure. " We saw T6 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. (says Franklin) a herd of reindeer sporting on the river, abont half a mile from the house ; they re- mained there a long time, but none of the party felt themselves strong enough to go after them, nor was there one of us who could have fired a gun without resting it." While they were seated round the fire this evening, discoursing about the anticipated relief, the sound of voices was heard, which was thought with joy to be that of the Indians, but, to their bitter disappoint- ment, the debilitated frames and emaciated counte- nances of Dr. Kichardson and Hepburn presented themselves at the door. They were of course gladly received, although each marked the ravages which fam- ine, care and fatigue had made on the other. The Doctor particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of the voices of his friends, which he requested them to make more cheerful if possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same key. Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought to the house, Dr. Richardson tore out the feathers, and having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided it into six portions. Franklin and his three compan- ions ravenously devoured their shares, as it was the first morsel of flesh any of them had tasted for thirty- one days, unless, indeed, the small gristly particles which they found adhering to the pounded bones may be termed flesh. Their spirits were revived by this small supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise them still higher by the prospect of Hepburn's being able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen, and even fired at, several near the house. He endeavored, too, to rouse them into some attention to the comfort of their apartment. Having brought his Prayer-book and Testament, some prayers, psalms, and portions of scripture, appropriate to their situation, were read out by Dr. Richardson, and they retired to their blankets. Early next morning, the Doctor and Hepburn went out in search of game ; but though they saw several T7 herds of deer, and fired some shots, they were not so fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns steadily. The cold compelled the former to re- turn soon, bat Hepburn perseveringly persisted until late in the evening. " My occupation, (continues Franklin) was to search for skins under the snow, it being now our object im- mediately to get all that we could ; but I had not strength to drag in more than two of those which were within twenty yards of the house, until the Doctor came and assisted me. We made up our stock to twenty-six; but several of them were putrid, and scarcely eatable, even by men suffering the extremity of famine. Peltier and Samandre continued very weak and dispirited, and they were unable to cut fire- wood. Hepburn had, in consequence, that laborious task to perform after he came back late from hunting." To the exertions, honesty, kindness, and consideration of this worthy man, the safety of most of the party is to be attributed. And I may here mention that Sir John Franklin, when he became governor of Yan Diemen's Land, obtained for him a good civil appoint- ment. This deserving man, I am informed by Mr. Barrow, is now in England, having lost his ofiice, which, I believe, has been abolished. It is to be hoped something will be done for him by the govern- ment. After their usual supper of singed skin and bone soup. Dr. Eichardson acquainted Franklin with the events that had transpired since their parting, particu- larly with the afilicting circumstances attending the death of Mr. Hood, and Michel, the Iroquois ; the par- ticulars of which I shall now proceed to condense from his narrative. After Captain Franklin had bidden them farewell, having no tripe de roohe they drank an infusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth, although it afforded no sustenance. They then retired to- bed, and kept to their blankets all next day, as the snow drift was so heavy as to prevent their lighting a 78 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. fire with the green and frozen willows, which were their only fuel. Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the party, previous to leaving London, had been furnished with a small collection of religious books, of which, (says Eichardson,) we still retained two or three of the most portable, and they proved of incalculable benefit to us. " We read portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer destitute ; and we conversed not only with calmness, but with cheerfulness, detailing with unre- strained confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope on our future prospects." How beautiful a picture have we here represented, of true piety and resignation to the divine will inducing pa- tience and submission under an unexampled load of misery and privation. ■ Michel, the Iroquois, joined them on the 9th of Oc- tober, having, there is strong reason to believe, mur- dered two of the Canadians who were with him, Jean Baptiste Belanger and Perrault, as they were never seen afterward, and he gave so many rambling and contradictory statements of his proceedings, that no credit could 'be attached to his story. The travelers proceeded on their tedious journey by slow stages. Mr. Hood was much afi'ected with dim ness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of ex treme debility, which caused them to move slowly and to make frequent halts. Michel absented himself all day of the 10th, and only arrived at their encampment near the pines late on the 11th. He reported that he had been in chase of some deer which passed near his sleeping place in the morning, and although he did not come up with them, yet he found a wolf which had been killed by the stroke of a deer's horn, and had brought a part of it. 79 Kicliardsoii adds — " We implicitly believed this tdoTj then, but afterward became aware — from cir- cumstances, the details of which may be spared — that it must have been a portion of the body of Bel anger, or Perrault. A question of moment here presents it- self — namely, whether he actually murdered these men, or either of them, or whether he found the bodies in the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the best able to judge of this matter, from knowing their situation when he parted from them, suggested the former idea, and that both these men had been sacrificed ; that Michel, having already destroyed Belanger, completed his criilie by Perrault's death, in order to screen himself from detection." Although this opinion is founded only on circum- stances, and is unsupported by direct evidence, it has been judged proper to mention it, especially as the subsequent conduct of the man showed that he was capable of committing such a deed. It is not easy to assign any other adequate motive for his concealing from Richardson that Perrault had turned back ; while his request, over-night, that they would leave him the hatchet, and his cumbering himself with it when he went out in the morning, unlike a hunter, who makes use only of his knife when he kills a deer, seem to indicate that he took it for the purpose of cutting up comething that he knew to be frozen. Michel left them early next day, refusing Dr. Rich- ardson's offer to accompany him, and remained out all day. He would not sleep in the tent with the other two at night. On the 13th, there being a heavy gale, they passed the day by their fire, without food. Next day, at noon, Michel set out, as he said, to hunt, but returned unexpectedly in a. short time. This conduct surprised his companions, and his contradictory and evasive answers to their questions excited their sus- picions still further. He subsequently refused either to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly manner, and threatened to leave them. "When reasoned with by Mr. Hood, his anger was excited, and he replied it 4. 80 PROG-KESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. was no use hunting — there were no animals, and they had better kill and eat him. "At this period," observes Dr. Richardson, "we avoided, as much as possible, conversing upon the hopelessness of our situation, and generally endeav- ored to lead the conversation toward our future pros- pects in life. The fact is, that with the decay of our strength, our minds decayed, and we were no longer able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that sur- rounded us. Yet we were calm and resigned to our fate ; not a murmur escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the Supreme Eeins^." On the morning of the 20th, they again urged Michel to go a-hunting, that he might, if possible, leave them some provision, as he intended quitting them next day, but he showed great unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the lire under the pretense of cleaning his gun. After the morning service had been read. Dr. Richardson went out to gather some tTi])e de rocJie^ leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fire- side, arguing with Michel ; Hepburn was employed cutting fire-wood. While they were thus engaged, the treacherous Iroquois took the opportunity to place his gun close to Mr. Hood, and shoot him through the head. He represented to his companions that the de- ceased had killed himself. On examination of the body, it was found that the shot had entered the back part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and that the muzzle of the gun had been aj)plied so close as to set fire to the nightcap behind. Michel pro- tested his innocence of the crime, and Hepburn and Dr. Richardson dared not openly evince their suspi- cion of his guilt. Next day, Dr. Richardson determined on goiu^ straight to the Fort. They singed the hair off a pari of the buffalo robe that belonged to their ill-fated com panion, and boiled and ate it. In the course of theii march, Michel alarmed them much by his gestures and conduct, was constantly muttering to himself, ex- pressed an unwillingness to go to the Fort, and tried 81 to persuade them to go southward to the woods, where he said he could maintain himself all the winter by killing deer. " In consequence of this behavior, and the expression of his countenance, I requested him (says Richardson) to leave us, and to go to the south- ward by himself. This proposal increased his ill-na- ture ; he threw out some obscure hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow ; and I over- heard him muttering threats against Hepburn, whom he openly accused of having told stories against him. He also, for the first time, assumed such a tone of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he con- sidered us to be completely in his power ; and he gave vent to several expressions of hatred toward the white people, some of whom, he said, had killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In short, taking every circumstance of his conduct into consideration, I came to the conclusion that he would attempt to destroy us on the fix'st opportunity that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his ignorance of his way to the Fort, but that he would never suffer us to go thither in company with him. Hepburn and I were not in a condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we by any device escape from him — our united strength was far inferior to his ; and, beside his gun, he was armed with two pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. " In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was some ti^ipe de roche^ he halted, and said he would gather it while we went on, and that he would soon overtake us. " Hepburn and I were now left together for the first time since Mr. Hood's death, and he acquainted me with several material circumstances, which he had observed of Michel's behavior, and which confirmed me in the opinion that there was no safety for us except in his death, and he offered to be the instrument of it. I de- termined, however, as I was thoroughly convinced of the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the wliole responsibility upon myself; and immediately upon Mi- 82 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ciiel's coming up, I put an end to his life by shooting him through the head with a pistol. Had my own life alone been threatened," observes Kichard^on, in conclu- sion, " I would not have purchased it by such a measure, but I considered myself as intrusted also with the pro- tection of Hepburn's, a man who, by his humane atten- tions and devotedness, had so endeared himself to me, that I felt more anxiety for his safety than for my own. " Michel had gathered no tripe dc roche^ and it was evi- dent to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting his gun in order with the intention of attacking us — perhaps while we were in the act of encamping." Persevering onward in their journey as well as the "snow storms and their feeble limbs would permit, they naw several herds of deer ; but Hepburn, who used to ^e a good marksman, was now unable to hold the gun straight. Following the track of a wolverine which had bf^n dragging something, he however found the spine of a deer which it had dropped. It was clean picked, and at least one season old, but they extracted the spinal marrow from it. A species of cornicularia^ a kind of lichen, was also met with, that was found good to eat when moistened and toasted over the fire. They had still some pieces of singed buffalo hide remaining, and Hepburn, on one occasion, killed a partridge, after firing several times at a flock. About dusk of the 29th they reached the Fort. " Upon entering the desolate dwelling, we had the satisfaction of embracing Capt. Franklin, but no words can convey an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our eyes on looking around. Our own misery had stolen upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the contemplation of each other's emaciated figures ; but the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and sepulchral voices of Captain Franklin and those with him were more than we could at first bear." Thus ends the narrative of Eichardson's journey. To resimie the detail of proceedings at the Fort. On the 1st of E"ovember two of the Canadians, Peltier and Samandre, died from sheer exhaustion. 83 On the 7th of ISToveinber they were relieved from their priTations and sufferings by the arrival of three Indians, bringing a supply of dried meat, some fat, and a few tongues, which had been sent off by Back with all haste from Akaitcho's encampment on the oth. These Indians nursed and attended them with the greatest care, cleansed the house, collected fire-wood, and studied every means for their general comfort. Their sufferings were now at an end. On the 26th of Novem- ber they arrived at the encampment of the Indian chief, Akaitcho. On the 6th of December Belanger and an- other Canadian arrived, bringing further supplies, and letters from England, from Mr. Back, and their former companion, Mr. Wentzel. The dispatches from England announced the success- ful termination of Captain Parry's voyage, and the pro- motion of Captain Franklin, Mr. Back, and of poor Mr. Hood. On the 18th they reached the Hudson's Bay Compa- ny's establishment at Moose Deer Island, where they joined their friend Mr. Back. They remained at Fort Chipewyan until June of the following year. It is now necessary to relate the story of Mr. Back's joui^ney, which, like the rest, is a sad tale of suffering and privation. Having been directed, on the 4th of October, 1821, to proceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beaupar- lant to Fort Enterprise, in the hopes of obtaining relief for the party, he set out. Tip to the Tth they met with a little trijpe de roche^ but this failing them they were compelled to satisfy, or rather allay, the cravings of hunger, by eating a gun-cover and a pair of old shoes. The grievous disappointment experienced on arriving at the house, and finding it a deserted ruin, cannot be told. "Without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of every resource, we felt ourselves," says Mr. Back, " re- duced to the most miserable state, which was rendered still worse from the recollection that our friends in the rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment, 84 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. however, hunger prevailed, and each began to gnaw the scraj)s of putrid and frozen meat and skin that were lying about, without waiting to prepare them." A fire was, however, afterward made, and the neck and bones of a deer foimd in the house were boiled and devoured. After resting a day at the house, Mr. Back pushed on with his companions in search of the Indians, leaving a note for Captain Franklin, informing him if he failed in meeting with the Indians, he intended to 2>iish on for the first trading establishment — distant about 130 miles — and send us succor from thence. On the 11th he set out on the journey, a few old skins having been first collected to serve as food. On the 13th and 14th of October they had nothing whatever to eat. Belanger was sent off with a note to Franklin. On the 15th they were fortunate enough to fall in with a partridge, the bones of which were eaten, and the remainder reserved for bait to fish with. Enough tripe de roche was, however, gathered to make a meal. Beauparlant now lingered behind, worn out by extreme weakness. On the 17th a number of crows, perched on some high pines, led them to believe that some carrion was near ; and on searching, several heads of deer, half buried in the snow and ice, without eyes or tongues, were found. An expression of " Oh, merci- ful God, we are saved," broke from them both and with feelings more easily imagined than described, they shook hands, not knowing what to say for joy. St. Germain was sent back, to bring up Beauparlant, for whose safety Back became very anxious, but he found the j^oor fellow frozen to death. The night of the 17th was cold and clear, but they could get no sleep. " From the pains of having eaten, we suffered (observes Back) the most excruciating tor- ments, though I in particular did not eat a quarter of what would have satisfied me ; it might have been from having eaten a quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs of deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so great was our hunger." On the following day Belanger returned famishing 85 with hunger, and told of the pitiable state of Franklin and his reduced party. Back, both this day and the next, tried to urge on his companions toward the object of their journey, but he could not conquer their stub- born determinations. They said they were unable to proceed from weakness ; knew not the way ; that Back wanted to expose them again to death, and in fact loi- tered greedily about the remnants of the deer till the end of the moi;th. " It was not without the greatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating ev- ery scrap they found ; though they were well aware of the necessity there was of being economical in our pres- ent situation, and to save whatever they could for our journey, yet they could not resist the temptation ; and whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to snatch at the nearest piece to them, whether cooked or raw. Having collected with great care, and by self- denial, two small packets of dried meat or sinews suffi- cient (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day, they set out on the 30th. On the 3d of November they came on the track of Indians, and soon reached the tents of Akaitcho and his followers, when food was obtained, and assistance sent off" to Franldin. In July they reached York Factory, from whence they had started three years before, and thus terminated a journey of 5550 miles, during which human courage and patience were exposed to trials such as few can bear with fortitude, unless, as is seen in Franklin's in- teresting narrative, arising out of reliance on the ever- sustaining care of an Almighty Providence. Paeey's Fiest Yoyage, 1819-1820. The Admiralty having determined to continue the progress of discovery in the Arctic seas, Lieut. W. E. Parry, who had been second in command under Capt. Poss, in the voyage of the previous year, was selected to take charge of a new expedition, consisting of the Heel a and Griper. The chief object of this voyage was to pursue the survey of Lancaster Sound, and decide 86 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. on the probability of a northwest passage in that di^ ac- tion; failing in which, Smith's and Jones' Sounds were to be explored, with the same purpose in view. The respective officers appointed to the ships, were — JECecla^ 375 tons : Lieut, and Commander — "W. E. Parry. Lieutenant — Fred. W. Beechey. Captain — E. Sabine, R. A., Astronomer. Purser — W. H. Hooper. Surgeon — John Edwards. Assistant Surgeon — Alexander Eisher. Midshipmen — James Clarke Ross, J. ISTias, "W. J. Dealy, Charles Palmei;, John Bushnan. Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master ; G. Craw- furd, mate. 44 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 68. Griper^ 180 tons : Lieutenant and Commander — Matthew Liddon. Lieutenant — H. P. Hoppner. Assistant Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. Midshipmen — A. Reid, A. M. Skene, W. N Griffiths. Greenland Pilots — George Fyfe, master ; A. Eld mate. 28 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 36. The ships were raised upon, strengthened, and well found in stores and provisions for two years. On the 11th of May, 1819, they got away from the Thames, and after a fair passage fell in with a considerable quan- tity of ice in the middle of Davis' Straits about the 20th of June ; it consisted chiefly of fragments of ice- bergs, on the outskirts of the glaciers that form along the shore. After a tedious passage through the floes of ice, effected chiefly by heaving and warping, they arrived at Possession Bay on the morning of the 31st 87 of Jiily, being just a montli 'earlier tlian they were here on the previous year. As many as fifty whales were seen here in the course of a few hours. On land- ing, they were not a little astonished to find their own ■ footprints of the previous year, still distinctly visible in the snow. During an excursion of three or four miles into the interior, a fox, a raven, several ring-plovers and snow-buntings, were seen, as also a bee, from which it may be inferred that honey can be procured even in these wild regions. Vegetation flourishes remarkably well here, considering the high latitude, for wherever there was moisture, tufts and various ground plants grew in considerable abundance. Proceeding on from hence into the Sound, they veri- fied the opinion which had previously been entertained by many of the ofiicers, that the Crolcer Mountains had no existence, for on the 4:th of August, the ships were in long. 86° 56' "W"., three degrees to the westward of where land had been laid down by Ross in the pre- vious year. The strait was named after Sir John Bar- row, and was found to be pretty clear ; but on reach- ing Leopold Island, the ice extended in a compact body to the north, through which it was impossible to pene- trate. Rather than remain inactive, waiting for the dissolution of the ice. Parry determined to try what could be done by shaping his course to the southward, through the magnificent inlet now named Regent In- let. About the 6th of August, in consequence of the local attraction, the ordinary compasses became use- less from their great variation, and the binnacles were removed from the deck to the carpenter's store-room as useless lumber, the azimuth compasses alone remain- ing ; and . these became so sluggish in their motions, that they required to be very nicely leveled, and fre- quently tapped before the card traversed. The local at- traction was very great, and a mass of iron-stone found on shore attracted the magnet powerfully. The ships proceeded 120 miles from the entrance. On the 8th of August, in lat. 72° 13' K, and long. 90° 29' W., (his extreme point of view Parry named 4* 88 PEOGSESS OF AECTIC DTSCOVEEY. Cape Kater,) the Hecla ' came to a compact barrier of ice extending across the inlet, which rendered one of two alternatives necessary, either to remain here until an opening took place, or to return again to the north- ward. The latter course was determined on. Making, therefore, for the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, on the 20th a narrow channel was discovered betw^een the ice and the land. On the 22d, proceeding due west, after passing several bays and headlands, they noticed two large openings or passages, the first of which, more ■than eight leagues in width, he named Wellington Channel. To various capes, inlets, and groups of isl- ands passed. Parry assigned the names of Hotham, Barlow, Cornwallis, Bowen, Byam Martin, Griffith, Lowther, Bathurst, &c. On the 28th a boat was sent on shore at Byam Martin Island with Capt. Sabine, Mr. J. C. Koss, and the surgeons, to make observations, and collect specimens of natural history. The vegeta- tion was rather luxuriant for these regions; moss in particular grew in abundance in the moist valleys and along the banks of the streams that flowed from the hills. The ruins of six Esquimaux huts were observed. Tracks of reindeer, bears, and musk oxen were noticed, and the skeletons, skulls, and horns of some of these animals were found. On the 1st of September, they discovered the large and fine island, to which Parry has given the name of Melville Island after the First Lord of the Admiralty of that day. On the following day, two boats with a party of officers were dispatched to examine its shores. Some reindeer and musk oxen were seen on landing, but being startled by the sight of a dog, it was found impossible to get near them. There seemed here to be a great quantity of the animal tribe, for the tracks of bears, oxen, and deer were numerous, and the horns, skin, and skulls were also found. The burrows of foxes and field-mice were observed; several ptarmigan were shot, and flocks of snow-bunting, geese, and ducks, w^ere noticed, probably commencing their migration to a milder climate. Along the beach there was an im- 89 mense numLer of small shrimps, and various kinds of shells. On the 4th of September, Parry had the satisfaction of crossing the meridian of 110° W., in the latitude of 74P 44' 20", hj which thei expedition became entitled to the reward of £5000, granted by an order in Coun- cil upon the Act 58 Geo. III., cap. 20, entitled, "An Act for more effectually discovering the longitude at sea, and encouraging attempts to find a northern pas- sage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and to approach the JSTorth Pole." This fact was not announced to the crews until the following day ; to celebrate the event they gave to a bold cape of the island then lying in sight the name of Bounty Cape ; and so anxious were they now to press forward, that they began to calculate the time when they should reach the longi- tude of 130° "W., the second place specified by the order in Council for reward. On the afternoon of the 5th, the compactness of the ice stopped them, and therefore, for the first time since leaving England, the anchor was let go, and that in 110° W. longitude. A boat was sent on shore on the 6th to procure turf or peat for fuel, and, strangely enough, some small pieces of tolerably good coal were found in various places scattered over the surface. A party of officers that went on shore on the 8th killed several grouse on the island, and a white hare ; a fox, some field-mice, several snow-bunting, a snowy owl, and four musk oxen were seen. Ducks, in small flocks, were seen along the shore, as well as several glaucous gulls and tern, and a ;5olitary seal was observed. As the ships were coasting along on the Yth, two herds of musk oxen were seen grazing, at the distance of about three-quarters of a mile from the beach : one nerd consisted of nine, and the other of five of these cattle. They had also a distant view of two reindeer. The average weight of the hares here is about eight pounds. Mr. Fisher, the surgeon, from whose interest- ing journal I quote, states that it is very evident that this island must be frequented, if not constantly inhab 90 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. ited, bv musk oxen in great numbers, for their bones and boms are found scattered about in all directions, and the greatest part of the carcass of one was discovered on one occasion. The skulls of two carnivorous ani- mals, a wolf and a lynx, were also picked up here. A party sent to gather coals brought on board about half a bushel — all they could obtain. On the morning of the 10th, Mr. George Fyfe, the master pilot, with a party of six men belonging to the Griper, landed with a view of making an exploring trip of some fifteen or twenty miles into the interior. They only took provisions for a day with them. Great un- easiness was felt that they did not retmm ; and when two days elapsed, fears began to be entertained for their safety, and it was thought they must have lost their way. Messrs. Eeid, (midshipman) Beverly, (assistant sur- geon) and Wakeman (clerk) volunteered to go in search of their missing messmates, but themselves lost their way ; guided by the rockets, fires, and lights exhibited, they returned by ten at night, almost exhausted with cold and fatigue, but without intelligence of their friends. Four relief parties were therefore organized, and sent out on the morning of the 13th to prosecute the search, and one of them fell in with and brought back four of the wanderers, and another the remaining three before nightfall. The feet of most of them were much frost-bitten, and they were all wearied and worn out with their wander- ings. It appears they had all lost their way the eve- ning of the day they went out. With regard to food, they were by no means badly off, for they managed to kill as many grouse as they could eat. They found fertile valleys and level plains in the in- terior, abounding with grass and moss ; also a lake of fresh water, about two miles long by one broad, in which were several species of trout. They saw several herds of reindeer on the plains, and two elk ; also many hares, but no musk oxen. Some of those, however, who had been in search of the stray party, noticed herds of these cattle. 91 ' The winter now began to set in, and the packed ice was so thick, that fears were entertained of being locked up in an exposed position on the coast ; it was, there- fore, thought most prudent to put back, and endeavor to reach the harbor which had been passed some days before. The vessels now got seriously buffeted among the floes and hummocks of ice. The Griper was forced aground on the beach, and for some time was in a very critical position. Lieutenant Liddon having been con- fined to his cabin by a rheumatic complaint, was pressed at this juncture by Commander Parry to allow himself to be removed to the Hecla, but he nobly refused, stating that he should be the last to leave the ship, and contin- ued giving orders. The beach being sand, the Griper was got off without injury. On the 23d of September they anchored off the mouth of the harbor, and the thermometer now fell to • 1°. The crew were set to work to cut a channel through the ice to the shore, and in the course of three days, a canal, two and a half miles in length, was completed, through which the vessel was tracked. The ice was eight or nine inches thick. An extra allowance of pre- served meat was served out to the men, in considera- tion of their hard labor. The vessels were unrigged, and every thing made snug and secure for passing the winter. Captain Parry gave the name of the I^orth Georgian Islands to this group, after his Majesty, King George III., but this has since been changed to the Parry Islands. Two reindeer were killed on the 1st of October, and several white bears were seen. On the 6th a deer was killed, which weighed 170 pounds. Seven were seen on the 10th, one of which was killed, and another se- verely wounded. Following after this animal, night overtook several of the sportsmen, and the usual sig- nals of rockets, lights, &c. were exhibited, to guide them back. One, John Pearson, a marine, had his hands so frost-bitten that he was obliged, on the 2d of November, to have the four fingers of "his left hand am- putated. A wolf and four reindeer were seen on the 93 PBOGRESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVEET. 14tli. A herd of fifteen deer were seen on the 15tli; i but those who saw them could not bring down any, as their fowling-pieces missed fire, from the moisture freezing on the locks. On the 17th and 18th herds of eleven and twenty respectively, were seen, and a small one was shot. A fox was caught on the 29th, which is described as equally cunning with his brethren of the temperate regions. To make the long winter pass as cheerfully as possi- ble, plays were acted, a school established, and a news- paper set on foot, certainly the first periodical publica- tion that had ever issued from the Arctic regions. The j title of this journal, the editorial duties of which were undertaken by Captain Sabine, was "The Winter Chronicle, or E"ew Georgia Gazette." The first num- ber appeared on the 1st of November. On the evening of the 5th of November the farce of " Miss in her Teens " was brought out, to the great amusement of the ships' companies, and, considering the local difiiculties and disadvantages under which the performers labored, their first essay, according to the officers' report, did them infinite credit. Two hours were spent very happily in their theater on the quarter- deck, notwithstanding the thermometer outside the ship stood at zero, and within as low as the freezing point, except close to the stoves, where it was a little higher. Another play was performed on the 24th, and so on every fortnight. The men were employed during the day in banking up the ships with snow. On the 23d of December, the officers performed " The Mayor of Garrett," which was followed by an after- piece, written by Captain Parry, entitled the " North- W est Passage, or the Yoyage Finished." The sun hav- ing long since departed, the twilight at noon was so clear that books in the smallest print could be distinctly read. On the 6th of January, the farce of " Bon Ton " was performed, with the thermometer at 27° below zero. — The cold became more and more intense. On the 12th it was 51° below zero, in the open air ; brandy froze to 93 the consistency of honey; when tasted in this state it left a smarting on the tongue. The greatest cold expe- rienced was on the 14th of January, when the ther- mometer fell to 52° below zero. On the 3d of Febru- ary, the sun was first visible above the horizon, after eighty-four days' absence. It was seen from the main- top of the ships, a height of about fifty-one feet above the sea. On the forenoon of the 24th a fire broke out at the storehouse, which was used as an observatory. All hands proceeded to the spot to endeavor to subdue the flames, but having only snow to throw on it, and the mats with which the interior was lined being very dry, it was found impossible to extinguish it. The snow, however, covered the astronomical instruments and se- cured them from the fire, and when the roof had been pulled down the fire had burned itself out. Consider- able as the fire was, its influence or heat extended but a very short distance, for several of the officers and men were frost-bitten, and confined from their efforts for several weeks. John Smith, of the Artillery, who was Captain Sabine's servant, and who, together with Sergeant Martin, happened to be in the house at the time the fii'e broke out, suffered much more severely. In their anxiety to save the dipping needle, which was standing close to the stove, and of which they knew the value, they immediately ran out with it; and Smith not having time to put on his gloves, had his fingers in half an hour so benumbed, and the animation so com- pletely suspended, that on his being taken on board by Mr. Edwards, and having his hands plunged into a basin of cold water, the surface of the water was im- mediately frozen by the intense cold thus suddenly communicated to it; and notwithstanding the most hu- mane and unremitting attention paid him by the med- ical gentlemen, it was found necessary, some time after, to resort to the amputation of a part of four fingers on one hand, and three on the other. Parry adds, " the appearance which our faces pre- sented at the fire was a curious one; almost every nose 9*4 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. and cheek having become quite white with frost bites, in five minutes after being exposed to the weather, so that it was deemed necessary for the medical gentle- men, together with some others appointed to assist them, to go constantly round while the men were work- ing at the fire, and to rub with snow the parts afiected, in order to restore animation." The weather got considerably milder in March; on the 6th the thermometer got up to zero for the first time since the 17th of December. The observatory house on shore was now rebuilt. The vapor, which had been in a solid state on the ship's sides, now thawed below, and the crew, scraping ofi" the coating of ice, removed on the 8th of March, above a hundred bucketsfuU each, containing from five to six gallons, which had accumulated in less than a month, occasioned principally from the men's breath, and the steam of victuals at meals. The scurvy now broke out among the crew, and prompt measures were taken to remedy it. Captain JParry took great pains to raise mustard and cress in his cabin for the men's use. On the 30th of April, the thermometer stood at the freezing point, which it had not done since the 12th of September last. On the 1st of May, the sun was seen at midnight for the first time that season. A survey was now taken of the provisions, fuel, and stores; much of the lemon juice was found destroyed from the bursting in the bottles by the frost. Having been only victualed for two years, and half that period having expired , Captain Parry, as a matter of prudence reduced all hands to two-thirds allowance of all sorts of provisions, except meat and sugar. The crew were now set to work in cutting away the ice round the ships : the average thickness was found to be seven feet. Many of the men who had been out on excursions began to suffer much from snow blind- ness. The sensation when first experienced, is de- scribed as like that felt when dust or sand gets into the eyes. They were, however, cured in the course of 95 two or three days by keeping tlie eyes covered, and bathing them occasionally with sugar of lead, or some other cooling lotion. To prevent the recurrence of the complaint, the men were ordered to wear a piece of crape or some substi- tute for it over the eyes. The channel round the ships was completed by the ITth of May, and they rose nearly two feet, having been kept down by the pressure of the ice round them, although lightened during the winter by the consump- tion of food and fuel. On the 24th, they were aston- ished by two showers of rain, a most extraordinary phenomenon in these regions. Symptoms of scurvy again appeared among the crew ; one of the seamen who had been recently cured, having imprudently been in the habit of eating the fat skimmings, or " slush," in which salt meat had been boiled, and which was served out for their lamps. As the hills in many places now be- came exposed and vegetation commenced, two or three ])ieces of ground were dug up and sown with seeds of radishes, onions, and other vegetables. Captain Parry determined before leaving to make an excursion across the island for the purpose of examining its size, bound- aries, productions, &c. Accordingly on the 1st of June, an expedition was organized, consisting of the com- mander, Captain Sabine, Mr. Fisher, the assistant-sur- geon, Mr. John Nias, midshipman of the Hecla, and Mr. Eeid, midshipman of the Griper, with two ser geants, and five seamen and marines. Three weeks provisions were taken, which, together with two tents, wood for fuel, and other articles, weighing in all about 800 lbs., was drawn on a cart prepared for the purpose by the men. Each of the officers carried a knapsack with his own private baggage, weighing from 18 to 24 lbs., also his gun and ammunition. The party started in high glee, under three hearty cheers from their comrades, sixteen of whom accompanied them for five miles, carrying their knapsacks and dramng the cart for them. They traveled by nigM, taking icot by day, as it wj>si 96 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. found to be wanner for sleep, and they had only a cov ering of a single blanket each, beside the clothes they had on. On the 2d, they came to a small lake, about half a mile long, and met with eider-ducks and ptarmigan ; seven of the latter were shot. From the top of a range of hills at which they now arrived, they could see the masts of the ships in Winter Harbor with the naked eye, at about ten or eleven miles distant. A vast plain was also seen extending to the northward and west- ward. The party breakfasted on biscuit and a pint of gruel each, made of salep powder, which was found to be a very palatable diet. Keindeer with- their fawns were met with. They derived great assistance in dragging their cart by rigging upon it one of the tent-blankets as a sail, a truly nautical contrivance, and the wind favoring them, they made great progress in this way. Captain Sabine being taken ill with a bowel complaint, had to be con- veyed on this novel sail carriage. They, however, had some ugly ravines to pass, the crossings of which were very tedious and troublesome. On the 7th the party came to a large bay, which was named after their ships, Hecla and Griper Bay. The blue ice was cut through by hard work with boarding pikes, the only instruments they had, and after digging fourteen and a half feet, the water rushed up ; it was not very salt, but sufficient to satisfy them that it was thS ocean. An island seen in the distance was named after Captain Sabine ; some of the various points and capes were also named after others of the party. Although this «hore was found blocked up with such heavy ice, there appear to be times when there is open water here, for a piece of fir wood seven and a half feet long, and about the thickness of a man's arm, was found about eighty yards inland from the hummocks of the beach, and about thirty feet above the level of the sea. Before leaving the shore, a monu- ment of stones, twelve feet high, was erected, in which were deposited, in a tin cylinder, an account of their 97 ?i.'Ceeding3, a few coins, and several naval buttons, 'he ex]3edition now turned back, shaping its course in a more westerly direction, toward some high blue hills, which had long been in sight. On many days several ptarmigans were shot. The horns and tracks of deer were very numerous. On the 11th they came in sight of a deep gulf, to which Lieutenant Liddon's name was given ; trie two capes at its entrance being called after Beechey and Iloppner. In the center was an island about three-quar- ters of a mile in length, and rising abruptly to the height of 700 feet. The shores of the gulf were very rugged and precipitant, and in descending a steep hill, the axle-tree of their cart broke, and they had to leave it behind, taking the body with them, however, for fuel. The wheels, which were left on the spot, may astonish some future adventurer who discovers them. The stcfres, &c., were divided among the officers and men. Making their way on the ice in the gulf, the island in the center was explored, and named after Mr. Hooper, the purser of the Hecla. It was found to be of sand- stone, and very barren, rising perpendicularly from the west side. Four fat geese were killed here, and a great many animals were seen around the gulf ; some atten- tion being paid to examining its shores, &c., a fine open valley was discovered, and the tracks of oxen and deer were very numerous ; the pasturage appeared to be excellent. On the 13th, a few ptarmigan and golden plover were killed. ]^o less than thirteen deer in one herd were seen, and a musk ox for the first time in this season. The remains of six Esquimaux huts were discovered about 300 yards from the beach. Yegetation now be- gan to flourish, the sorrel was found far advanced, and a species of saxifrage was met with in blossom. They reached the ships on the evening of the 15th, after a journey of about 180 miles. The ships' crews, during their absence, had been occu- pied in getting ballast in and re-stowing the hold. Shooting parties were now sent out in various direc- 7 98 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEKT. tions to procure game. Dr. Fisher gives an interestin*^ account of his ten days' excursion with a couple of men. The deer were not so numerous as they expected to find them. About thirty were seen, of which his party killed but two, which were very lean, weighing only, when skinned and cleaned, 50 to 60 lbs. A couple of wolves were seen, and some foxes, with a great many hares, four of which were killed, weighing from 7 to 8 lbs. The aquatic birds seen were — brent geese, king ducks, long-tailed ducks, and arctic and glaucous gulls. The land birds were ptarmigans, plovers, sanderlings and snow buntings. The geese were pretty numerous for the first few days, but got wild and wary on being disturbed, keeping in the middle of lakes out of gun- shot. About a dozen were, however, killed, and fifteen ptarmigans. These birds are represented to be so stu- pid, that all seen may be shot. Dr. Fisher was sur- prised on his return on the 29th of June, after his ten days' absence, to find how much vegetation had ad- vanced ; the land being now completely clear of snow, was covered with the purple-colored saxifrage in blos- som, with mosses, and with sorrel, and the grass was two to three inches long. The men were sent out twice a week to collect the sorrel, and in a few minutes enough could be procured to make a salad for dinner. After being mixed with vinegar it was regularly served out to the men. The English garden seeds that had been sown got on but slowly, an^. did not yield any produce in time to be used. On the 30th of June "Wm. Scott, a boatswain's mate, who had been afflicted with scurvy, diarrhoea, &c., died, and was buried on the 2d of July — a slab oi sandstone bearing an inscription carved by Dr. Fisher, being erected over his grave. From observations made on the tide during two months, it appears ths^t the greatest rise and fall here is four feet four inches. A large pile of stones was erected on the 14th of July, upon the most cons23icuous hill, containing the usual notices, coins, &c., and on a large stone an inscription was left, notify ing the winter- ing of the ships here. 99 On the 1st of August, the ships, which had been pre- viously warped out, got clear of the harbor, and found a channel, both eastward and westward, clear of ice, about three or four miles in breadth along the land. On the 6th thej landed on the island, and in the course of the night killed fourteen hares and a number of glaucous gulls, which were found with their young on the top of a precipitous, insulated rock. On the 9th the voyagers had an opportunity of ob- serving an instance of the violent pressure that takes place occasionally by the collision of heavy ice. " Two pieces," says Dr. Fisher, " that happened to come in contact close to us, pressed so forcibly against one an- other that one of them, although forty-two feet thick, and at least three times that in length and breadth, was forced up on its edge on the top of another piece of ice. But even this is nothing when compared with the pres- sure that must have existed to produce the efiects that we see along the shore, for not only heaps of earth and stones several tons weight are forced up, but hummocks of ice, from fifty to sixty feet thick, are piled up on the beach. It is unnecessary to remark that a ship, although fortified as well as wood and iron could make her, would have but little chance of withstanding such over- whelming force." This day a musk-ox was shot, which weighed more than 700 lbs.; the carcass, when skinned and cleaned, yielding 421 lbs. of meat. The flesh did not taste so very strong of musk as had been represented. The ships made but slow progress, being still thickly beset with floes of ice, 40 or 50 feet thick, and had to make fast for security to hummocks of ice on the beach. On the 15th and 16th they were off the southwest point of the island, but a survey of the locality from the precipitous cliff of Cape Dundas, presented the same interminable barrier of ice, as far as the eye could reach. A bold high coast was sighted to the southwest, to i^hieh the name of Bank's Land was given. Captain Parry states that on the 23d the ships re- ceived by far the heaviest shocks they had experienced iOO PEOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEET. during the voyage, and performed six miles of the most difficult navigation lie had ever known among ice. Two musk bulls were shot on the 24:th by parties ^dl0 landed, out of a herd of seven which were seen. They were lighter than the first one shot — w^eighing only about 360 lbs. From the number of skulls and skele- tons of these animals met with, and their capabidties of enduring the rigor of the climate, it seems probable that they do not migrate southward, but winter on this island. Attempts were still made to work to the eastward, but on the 25th, from want of wind, and the closeness of the ice, the ships were obliged to make fast again, without having gained above a mile after several hours' labor. A fresh breeze springing up on the 26th opened a passage along shore, and the ships made sail, to the eastward, and in the evening were off their old quarters in Winter Harbor. On the following evening, after a fine run, they were off the east end of Melville Isl*\nd. Lieut. Parry, this day, announced to the officers and crew that after due consideration and consultation, it had been found useless to prosecute their researches farther westward, and therefore endeavors would be made in a more southerly direction, failing in w^hich, the expedition would return to England. Begent Inlet and the southern shores generally, were found so blocked up with ice, that the return to England was on the 30th of August publicly announced. This day, ISTavy Board and Admiralty Inlets were passed, and on the 1st of September the vessels got clear of Barrow's Strait, and reached Baffin's Bay on the 5th. They fell in with a whaler belonging to Hull, from whom they learned the news of the death of George the Third and the Duke of Kent, and that eleven vessels having been lost in the ice last year, fears were entertained for their safety. The Friendship, another Hull whaler, informed them that in company with the Truelove, she had looked into Smith's Sound that summer. The Alexander, of Aber- deen, one of the ships employed on the former voyage of discovery to these seas, had also entered Lancaster faery's second voyage. 101 Sound. After touching at Clyde's Eiver, where they met a good-natured tribe of Esquimaux, the ships made the best of their way across the Atlantic, and after a somewhat boisterous passage. Commodore Parry landed at Peterhead on the 30th of October, and, accompanied by Capt. Sabine and Mr. Hooper, posted to London. Pakky's Second Yoyage, 1821— 1823. The experience which Capt. Parry had formed in his previous voyage, led him to entertain the opinion that a communication might be found between Regent Inlet and Poe's Welcome, or through Repulse Bay, and thence to the northwestern shores. The following are his re- marks : — " On an inspection of the charts I think it will also appear probable that a communication will one day be found to exist between this inlet (Prince Regent's) and Hudson's Bay, either through the broad and unexplored channel called Sir Thomas Roe's Wel- come, or through Repulse Bay, which has not yet been satisfactorily examined. It is also probable that a chan- nel will be Ibuhd to exist between the western land and the northern coast of America." Again, in another place, he says : — " Of the existence of a northwest passage to the Pacific it is now scarcely possible to doubt, and from the succesr which attended our efforts in 1819, after passing thiuugh Sir James Lancaster's Sound, we were not unreasonable in anticipating its complete accomplishment. But the season in which it is practicable to navigate the Polar Seas does not exceed seven weeks. From all that we observed it seems desir- able that ships endeavoring to reach the Pacific Ocean by this route should keep if possible on the coast of America, and the lower in latitude that coast may be found, the more favorable will it prove for the purpose ; hence Cumberland Strait, Sir Thomas Roe's Welcome, and Repulse Bay appear to be the points most worthy of attention. I cannot, therefore, but consider that any expedition equipped hy Great Britain with this, view 102 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. ought to employ its best energies in attempting to pene- trate from the eastern coast of America along its north- ern shore. In consequence of the partial success which has hitherto attended our attempts, the whalers have already extended their views, and a new field has been opened for one of the most lucrative branches of our commerce, and what is scarcely of less importance, one of the most valuable nurseries for seamen which Great Britain possesses."* Pleased with his former zeal and enterprise, and in order to give him an opportunity of testing the truth of his observations, a few months after he returned home, the Admiralty gave Parry the command of another ex- pedition, with instructions to proceed to Hudson's Strait, and penetrate to the w^estward, until in Repulse Bay, or on some other part of the shores of Hudson's Bay to the north of Wager River, he should reach the western coast of the continent. Failing in these quarters, he was to keep along the coast, carefully examining every bend or inlet, which should appear likely to afibrd a practicable passage to the westward. The vessels commissioned, wdth their officers and crews, were the following. Several of the officers of the former expedition were promoted, and those who had been on the last voyage with Parry I have marked with an asterisk : — Fun/. Commander — *W. E. Parry. Chaplain and Astronomer — Rev. Geo. Fisher, (was in the Dorothea, under Capt. Buchan, in 1818.) Lieutenants — *J. Nias and *A. Reid. Surgeon — *J. Edwards. Purser — '^W. H. Hooper. Assistant-Surgeon— J. Skeoch. Midshipmen — "^ J. C. Ross, *J. Bushnan, J. Hender- son, F. R. M. Crozier. *PaiTy's First Voyage, voL ii, p. 240. 103 Greenland Pilots — ^J. Allison, master ; G. Crawfiirdj mate. 4:7 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 60. Hecla, Commander — G. F. Lyon. Lieutenants — *H. P. Hoppner and *C. Palmer. Sm-geon — "^A. Fisher. Pm'ser — J. Germain. • Assistant-Sm-geon — A. M'Laren. Midshipmen — ^W. IS". Griffiths, J. Sherer, C. Eich- ards, E. J. Bird. Greenland Pilots — *G. Fife, master; *A. Elder, mate. 46 Petty Officers, seamen, &c. Total complement, 58. Lieutenant Lyon, the second in command, had ob- tained some reputation from his travels in Tripoli, Mourzouk, and other parts of JSTorthern Africa, and was raised to the rank of Commander, on his appointment to the Hecla, and received his promotion as Captain, ,when the exj)edition returned. The ships were accompanied as far as the ice by the l^autilus transport, freighted with provisions and stores, which were to be transhipped as soon as room was found for them. The vessels got away from the little ISTore early on the 8th of May, 1821, but meeting with strong gales off the Greenland coast, and a boisterous passage, did not fall in with the ice until the middle of June. On the 17th of June, in a heavy gale from the south- ward, the sea stove and carried away one of the quar- ter boats of the Hecla. On the following day, in lat. 60° 53' E"., long. 61° 39' W., they made the pack or main body of ice, having many large bergs in and near it. On the 19th, Pesolution Island, at the en- trance of Hudson's Strait, was seen distant sixty-four miles. Capt. Lyon states, that during one of the 104: PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEEY. watches, a large fragment was observed to fall fron> an iceberg near the Heel a, which threw up the watei to a great height, sending forth at the same time a noise like the report of a great gun. From this pe- riod to the 1st of July, the ships were occupied in clearing the J^autilus of her stores, preparatory to her return home, occasionally made fast to a berg, or driven out to sea by gales. On the 2d, after running through heavy ice, they again made Resolution Island, and shaping their course for the Strait, were soon in- troduced to the company of some unusually large ice- bergs. The altitude of one was 258 feet above the surface of the sea ; its total height, therefore, allowing one-seventh only to be visible, must have been aboul 1806 feet! This however, is supposing the base un der water not to spread beyond the mass above water The vessels had scarcely drifted past this floating mountain, when the eddy tide carried them with great rapidity among a cluster of eleven bergs of huge size, and having a beautiful diversity of form. The largest of these was 210 feet above the water. The floe ice was running wildly at the rate of three miles an hour, sweeping the vessels past the bergs, against any one of which, they might have received incalcu- lable injury. An endeavor w^as made to make the ships fast to one of them, (for all of them were aground,) in order to ride out the tide, but it proved unsuccess- ful, and the Fury had. much difficulty in sending a boat for some men who were on a small berg, making holes for her ice anchors. They were therefore swept past and soon beset. Fifty-four icebergs were counted from the mast-head. On the 3d, they made some progress through very heavy floes ; but on the tide turning, the loose ice flew together with such rapidity and noise, that there was barely time to secure the ships in a natural dock, be- fore the two streams met, and even then they received some heavy shocks. Water was procured for use from the pools in the floe to which the ships were made fast ; and this being the first time of doing so, 105 afforded great amusement to the novices, who, even when it was their period of rest, preferred pelting each other with snow-balls, to going to bed. Buffet> , ing with eddies, strong cm'rents, and dangerous bergs,^ they were kept in a state of anxiety and danger, for a week or ten days. On one occasion, with the pros- pect of being driven on shore, the pressure they ex- perienced was so great, that five hawsers, six inches thick, were carried away, and the best bower anchor of the Hecla was wrenched from the bows, and broke off at the head of the shank, with as much ease as if, instead of weighing upward of a ton, it had been of crockery ware. For a week they were embayed by the ice, and during this period they saw three strange ships, also beset, under Resolution Island, which they contrived to join on the 16th of July, making fast to a floe near them. They proved to be the Hudson's Bay Company's traders. Prince of Wales, and Eddystone, with the Lord Wellington, chartered to convey 160 natives of Holland, who were proceeding to settle on Lord Selkirk's estate, at the Red River. " While nearing these vessels, (says Lyon,) we observed the settlers waltzing on deck, for above two hours, the men in old-fashioned gray jackets, and the women wearing long-eared mob caps, like those used by the Swiss peasants. As we were surrounded by ice, and the thermometer was at the freezing point, it may be supposed that this ball, al vero fresco^ afforded us much amusement." The Hudson's Bay ships had left England twenty days after the expedition. The emigrant ship had been hampered nineteen days among the ice before she joined the others ; and as this navigation was new to her captain and crew, they almost despaired of ever getting to their jour- ney's end, so varied and constant had been their im- pediments. The Dutchmen had, however, behaved very philosophically during this period, and seemed determined on being merry, in spite of the weather and the dangers. Several marriages had taken place, ,the surgeon, who was accompanying them to the col- 106 PKOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCO VEET. ony, officiating as clergyman,) and many more were in agitation ; each, bappy couple always" deferring the ceremony until a fine day allowed of an evening ball, which was only terminated by a fresh breeze, or a fall of snow.* On the 17th, the ships were separated by the ice, and they saw no more of their visitors. On the 21st, they were only off the Lower Savage Islands. In the evening they saw a very large bear lying on a piece of ice, and two boats were instantly sent off in chase. They approached very close before he took to the water, when he swam rapidly, and made long springs, turning boldly to face his pursuers. It was with difficulty he was captured. As these animals, although very fat and bulky, sink the instant they die, he was lashed to a boat, and brought alongside the ship. On hoisting him in, they were astonished to find that his weight exceeded sixteen hundred pounds, being one of the largest ever killed. Two instances, only, of larger bears being shot are recorded, and these were by Barentz's crew, in his third voyage, at Cherie Island, to which they gave the name of Bear Island. The two bears killed then, measured twelve and thirteen feet, while this one only measured eight feet eight inches, from the snout to the insertion of the tail. The seamen ate the flesh without experiencing any of those baneful effects which old navigators at- tribute to it, and which are stated to have made three of Barentz's people " so sick that we expected they would have died, and their skins peeled off from head to foot." Bruin was very fat, and having pro- cured a tub of blubber from the carcass, it was thrown over board, aad the smell soon attracted a couple of walruses, the first that had been yet seen. They here fell in with a numerous body of the Es quimaux, who visited them from the shore. In less than an hour the ships were beset with thirty " ka- yaks," or men's canoes, and five of the women's large boats, or " oomiaks." Some of the latter held up- ward of twenty women. A most noisy but merry barter instantly took place, the crew being as anxious * Lyon's Private Journal, p. 11. 107 to purchase Esquimaux curiosities, as the natives were to procure iron and European toys. '^It is quite out of my power, (observes Captain Lyon,) to describe the shouts, yells, and laughter of the savages, or the confusion which existed for two or three hours. The females were at first very shy, and unwilling to come on the ice, but bartered every thing from their boats. This timidity, however, soon wore ofi*, and they, in the end, became as noisy and bois- terous as the men." " It is scarcely possible, (he adds) to conceive any thing more ugly or disgusting than the countenances of the old women, who had inflamed eyes, wrinkled skin, black teeth, and, in fact, such a forbidding set of features as scarcely could be called human ; to which might be added their dress, which was such as gave them the appearance of aged ourang- outangs. Frobisher's crew may be pardoned for hav- ing, in such superstitious times as a. d. 1576, taken one of these ladies for a witch, of whom it is said, ' The old wretch whom our sailors supposed to be a witch, had her buskins pulled off, to see if she was cloven-footed ; and being very ugly and deformed, we let her go.' " In bartering they have a singular custom of ratify- ing the bargain, by licking the article all over before it is put away in security. Captain Lyon says he fre- quently shuddered at seeing the children draw a razor over their tongue, as unconcernedly as if it had been an ivory paper-knife. I cannot forbear quoting here some humorous passages from his journal, which stand out in relief to the scientific and nautical parts of the narrative. " The strangers were so well pleased in our society, that they showed no wish to leave us, and when the market had quite ceased, .they began dancing. and playing with our people, on the ice alongside. This exercise set many of their noses bleeding, and discov- ered to us a most nasty custom, which accounted for their gory faces, and which was, that as fast as the blood ran down, they scraped it with the fingers 108 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DIBCOVEftT. into their moutlis, appearing to consider it as a re- freshment, or dainty, if we might judge by the zest with which they smacked their lips at each supply." " In order to amuse our new acquaintances as much as possible, the fiddler was sent on the ice, where he instantly found a most delightful set of dancers, of whom some of the women kept pretty good time. Their only figure consisted in stamping and jumping with all their might. Our musician, who was a lively fellow, soon caught the infection, and began cutting capers also. In a short time every one on the fioe, ofiicers, men, and savages, were dancing together, and exhibited one of the most extraordinary sights I ever witnessed. One of our seamen, of a fresh, ruddy complexion, excited the admiration of all the young females, who patted his face, and danced around him wherever he w^ent. " The exertion of dancing so exhilarated the Esqui- maux, that they had the, appearance of being boister- ously drunk, and played many extraordinary pranks. Among others, it was a favorite joke to run slily be- hind the seamen, and shouting loudly in one ear, to give them at the same time a very smart slap on the other. While looking on, I was sharply saluted in this manner, and, of course, was quite startled, to the great amusement of the bystanders : our cook, who was a most active and unwearied jumper, became so great a favorite, that every one boxed his ears so soundly, as to oblige the poor man to retire from such boisterous marks of approbation. Among other sports, some of the Esquimaux rather roughly, but with great good humor, challenged our people to wrestle. One man, in particular, who had thrown sev- eral of his countrymen, attacked an oificer of a. very strong make, but the poor savage was instantly thrown, and w^ith no very easy fall ; yet, although every one was laughing at him, he bore it with exemplary good humor. The same oificer afforded us much diversion by teaching a large party of women to bow, courtesy, pakey's second voyage. 109 shake hands, turn their toes ont, and perform siin- diy other polite accomplishments ; the whole party master'and pupils, preserving the strictest gravity. " Toward midnight all our men, except the watch on deck, turned in to their beds, and the fatigued and hungry Esquimaux returned to their boats to take their supper, which consisted of lumps of raw flesh and blub- ber of seals, birds, entrails, &c. ; licking their fingers with great zest, and with knives or fingers scraping the blood and grease which ran down their chins into their mouths." Many other parties of the natives were fallen in with during the slow progress of the ships, between Salisbury and Nottingham Islands, who were equally as eager to beg, barter, or thieve ; and the mouth was the general repository of most of the treasures they received ; nee- dles, pins, nails, buttons, beads, and other small etcete- ras, being indiscriminately stowed there, but detracting in nowise from their volubility of speech. On the 13th of August the weather being calm and fine, norwhals or sea-unicorns, were very numerous about the ships, and boats were sent, but without success, to strike one. There were sometimes as many as twenty of these beautiful fish in a shoal, lifting at times their immense horn above the water, and at others showing their glossy backs, which were spotted in the manner of coach dogs in England. The length of these fish is about fifteen feet, exclusive of the horn, which averages "^ve or six more. Captain Parry landed and slept on Southampton Isl- and. His boat's crew caught in holes on the beach suflicient sillocks, or young cOal-fish, to serve for two meals for the whole ship's company. During the night white whales were seen lying in hundreds close* to the rocks, probably feeding on the sillocks. After carefully examining Duke of "York Bay, the ships got into the Frozen Strait of Middleton on the morning of the 20th, and an anxious day was closed by passing an opening to the southward, which was found to be Sir Thomas Hoe's Welcome, and heaving to for the night off a bay 110 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCO VEET. to the northwest. The ships got well in to Repnlse Bay on the 22d, and a careful examination of its shores was made by the boats. Captains Parry and Lyon, with several officers from each ship, landed and explored the northern shores, while a boat examined the head of the bay. The wa- ters of a long cove are described by Captain Lyon as being absolutely hidden by the quantities of young eider-ducks, which, under the direction of their moth- ers, v/ere making their first essays in swimming. Captain Lyon with a boat's crew made a trip of a couple of days along some of the indents of the bay, and discovered an inlet, which, however, on being en- tered subsequently by the ships, proved only to be the dividing channel between an island and the main-land, about six miles in length by one in breadth. Proceed- ing to the northward by Kurd's channel, they expe- rienced a long rolling ground swell setting against them. On the 28th, ascending a steep mountain, Captai>t Lyon discovered a noble bay, subsequently named Gor > Bay, in which lay a few islands, and toward this the'i directed their course. Captain Parry, who had been two days absent witb boats exj)loring the channel and shores of the strait, r/>- turned on the 29th, but set oft* again on the same day with six boats to sound and examine more minutely. When Parry returned at night, Mr; Griffiths, of tfe Hecla, brought on board a large doe, which he h&d killed while swimming (among large masses of ice) fro^ii isle to isle ; two others and a fawn were procured c a shore by the Fury's people. The game laws, as th^ y were laid down on the former voyage while winteri\ 3 at Melville Island, were once more put in force. The iQ " enacted that for the purpose of economizing the shi.fs provisions, all deer or musk-oxen killed should he served out in lieu of the usual allowance of meat. Hares, ducks, and other birds were not at this time to be included. As an encouragem.ent to sportsmen, the head, legs, and offal of the larger animals were to be the perquisites of those who procured the carcasses for Ill the general good." " In the animals of this day (ob- serves Lyon) we were convinced that onr sportsmen had not forgotten the latitude to which their perquisites might legally extend, for the necks were made so long as to encroach considerably on the vertebrae of the back ; a manner of amputating the heads which had been learned during the former voyage, and, no doubt, would be strictly acted up to in the present one." While the ships on the 30th were proceeding through this strait, having to contend with heavy wind and wild ice, which with an impetuous tide ran against the rocks with loud crashes, at the rate of five knots in the center stream ; four boats towing astern were torn away by the ice, and, with the men in them, were for some time in great danger. The vessels anchored for the night in a small nook, and weighing at daylight on the Slst, they stood to the eastward, but Gore Bay was found closely packed with ice, and most of the in- lets they passed were also beset. A prevalence of fog, northerly wind, and heavy ice in floes of some miles in circumference, now carried the ships, in spite of constant labor and exertions, in three days, back to the very spot in Fox's Channel, where a month ago they had commenced their opera- tions. It was not till the 5th of September, that they could again get forward, and then by one of the usual changes in the navigation of these seas, the ships ran well to the northeast unimpeded, at the rate of six knots an hour, anchoring for the night at the mouth of a large opening, which was named Lyon Inlet. The next day they proceeded about twenty-five miles up this inlet, which appeared to be about eight miles broad. Captain Parry pushed on with two boats to examine the head of the inlet, taking provisions for a week. He returned on the 14th, having failed in finding any outlet to the place he had been examining, which was very extensive, full of fiords and rapid overfalls of the tide. lie had procured a sufficiency of game to afford his people a hot supper every evening, which, after the constant labor of the day, was highly acceptable. He 112 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. fell in also with a small party of nativea a^ ho displayed the usual thieving propensities. Animal food of all kinds was found to be very plen- tiful in this locality. A fine salmon trout was brought down by one of the ofiicers from a lake in the moun- tains. The crew of the Hecla killed in a fortnight four deer, forty hares, eighty-two ptarmigan, fifty ducks, three divers, three foxes, three ravens, four seals, er- mines, marmottes, mice, &c. Two of the seals killed were immense animals of the bearded species {Phooa 'barhata^ very fat, weighing about eight or nine cwt.; the others were the common species, {P. mtulina) Captain Parry again left in boats, on the 15th, to ex- amine more carefully the land that had been passed so rapidly on the 5th and 6th. iNTot finding him return on the 24th, Captain Lyon ran down the coast to meet him, and by burning blue lights, fell in with him at ten that night. It appeared he had been frozen up for two days on the second evening after leaving. When he got clear he ran down to, and sailed round, Gore Bay, at that time perfectly clear of ice, but by the next morning it was quite filled with heavy pieces, which much impeded his return. Once more he was frozen up in a small bay, where he was detained three days ; when, finding there was no chance of getting out, in consequence of the rapid formation of young ice, by ten hours' severe labor, the boats were carried over a low point of land, a mile and a half wide, and once more launched. On the 6th of October, the impediments of ice con- tinuing to increase, being met with in all its formations of sludges or young ice, pancake ice and bay ice, a small open bay within a cape of land, forming the southeast extremity of an island off Lyon Inlet, was sounded, and being found to be safe anchorage the ships were brought in, and, from the indications which were setting in, it was finally determined to secure them there for the winter ; by means of a canal half a mile long, which was cut, they were taken further into the bay. The island was named Winter Isle. Preparations were now made for occupation and 113 amusement, so as to pass away pleasantly the period of detention. A good stock of theatrical dresses and properties having been laid in by the officers before leaving England, arrangements were made for perform- ing plays fortnightly, as on their last winter residence, as a means of amusing the seamen, and in some degree to break the tedious monotony of their confinement. As there could be no desire or hope of excelling, every officer's name was readily entered on the list of drcb- Tnatis personce^ Captain Lyon kindly undertaking the difficult office of manager. Those ladies (says Lyon) who had cherished the growth of their beards and whiskers, as a defense against the inclemency of the climate, now generously agreed to do away with such unfeminine ornaments, and every thing bade fair for a most stylish theater. As a curiosity, I may here put on record the play bill for the evening. I have added the ship to which each officer belonged. THEATEE EOYAL, WmTER ISLE. The Public are respectfully informed that this little, yet elegant Theater, will open for the season on Fri- day next, the 9th of E"ovember, 1821, when will be performed Sheridan's celebrated Comedy of THE EIYALS. Sir Anthony Absolute Captain Parry, {Fiery.) Captain Absolute - - Captain Lyon, {Hecla.) Sir Lucius C Trigger ^ Mr. Crozier, {Fury) FaulTdand^ - - - - Mr. J. Edwards, {Fury) AcreSy ------ Mr. J. Henderson, {Fury.) Fay, Lieut. Hoppner, {Hecla) David, Lieut. Eeid, {Fury) Mrs. Malaprojp, Mr. C. Eichards, {Meda) Julia, Mr. W. H. Hooper, {Fury) Lydia Languish, - - Mr. J. Sherer, {Heda) Lucy, 'M.x.1^ .'WogQ^,{cV'kof Heda) 8 114 PKOGKESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEET. Songs by Messrs. C. Palmer, (Hecla,yand J. Hen- derson, will be introduced in the course of the eve- ning. On the ITth of December, a shivering set of actors performed to a great-coated, yet very cold audience, the comedy of the "Poor Gentleman." A burst of true English feeling was exhibited during the perform- ance of this play. In the scene where Lieut. Worth- ington and Corporal Foss recount in so animated a manner their former achievements, advancing at the same time, and huzzaing for " Old England," the whole audience, with one accord, rose and gave three most hearty cheers. They then sat down, and the play continued uninterrupted. On Christmas Eve, in order to keep the people quiet and sober, two farces were performed, and the phantasmagoria, (which had been kindly presented anonymously to the ships before leaving, by a lady,) exhibited, so that the night passed merrily away. The coldness of the weather proved no bar to the performance of a play at the appointed time. If it amused the seamen, the purpose was answered, but it was a cruel task to performers. " In our green-room, (says Lyon,) which was as much warmed as any other part of the Theater, the thermometer stood at 16°, and on a table which was placed over a stove, and about six inches above it, the coffee froze in the cups. For my sins, I was obliged to be dressed in the height of the fashion, as Dich Dowlas., in the " Heir at Law," and went through the last scene of the play with two of my fingers frost-bitten ! Let those who have witnessed and admired the performances of a Young, answer if he could possibly ha /e stood so cold a recep- tion." Captain Parry also states in his Journal, " Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratifica- tion to several among us, I may mention the musical parties we were enabled to muster, and which assem- bled on stated evenings throughout the winter, alter 115 cutely :ui iLcrQander Lyon's cabin, and in my own. More skillful aoaatenrs in music might well have smiled at these, our humble concerts, but it will not incline them to think less of the science they admire, to be assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished us with the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable of afibrding ; for, independently of the mere gratifica- tion afforded to the ear by music, there is, perhaps, scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not more or less connected with ' his far distant home.' There are always some remembrances which render them inseparable, and those associations are not to be despised, which, while we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can still occasionally transport ns into the social circle of our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll be- tween us." But their "attention was not confined to mere amusements. Much to the credit of the seamen, an application was made in each ship for permission to open an evening school, which was willingly ac- ceded to. Almost every man could read, and some could write a little, but several found that, from long disuse, it was requisite to begin again. Mr. Halse volunteered to superintend the classes in the Fury ; while Benjamin "White,a seaman, who had been educated at Christ's Hospital, officiated as schoolmaster in the Hecla, and those best qualified to assist aided in the instruction of their shipmates, who made rapid progress under their tuition. On Christmas Day, Capt. Lyon states that he received sixteen copies from men, who, two months before, scarcely knew their letters. These little specimens were all well written, and sent with as much pride as if the writers had been good little schoolboys, instead of stont and excellent seamen. An observatory was erected on shore, for carrying on magnetical, astronomical, and other scientific opera- tions. Foxes were very plentiful about the ships ; fifteen were caught in one trap in four hours on the night of the 25th of October, and above one hundred were 116 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISOOVEET. either trapped or killed in the course of three months, and yet there seemed but little diminution in their numbers. Captain Lyon says he found them not bad eating, the flesh much resembling that of kid. A pack of thirteen wolves came occasionally to have a look at the ships, and on one occasion broke into a snow-house alongside, and walked off with a couple of Esquimaux dogs confined there. Eears now and then also made their appearance. A very beautiful ermine walked on board the Hecla one day, and was caught in a small trap placed on the deck, certainly the first of these animals which was ever taken alive on board a ship 400 yards from the land. The ravenous propensities of even some of the smallest members of the animal kingdom are exempli- fied by the following extract : — " We had for some time observed that in the fire- hole, which was kept open in the ice alongside, a count- less multitude of small shrimps were constantly rising near the surface, and we soon found that in twenty-four hours they would clean, in the most beautiful manner, the skeletons." After attending divine service on Christmas day, the officers and crews sat down to the luxury of joints of English roast beef, which had been kept untainted by being frozen, and the outside rubbed with salt. Cran- berry pies and puddings, of every shape and size, with a full allowance of spirits, followed, and, probably the natural attendance of headaches succeeded, for the next morning it was deemed expedient to send all the people for a run on the ' ice, in order to put them to rights ; but thick weather coming on, it became neces- sary to recall them, and, postponing the dinner hour, they were all danced sober by one o'clock, the fiddler being, fortunately, quite as he should be. During this curious ball, a witty fellow attended as an old cake woman, with lumps of frozen snow in a bucket ; and such was the demand for his pies on this occasion, that he was obliged to replenish pretty frequently. The year had now drawn to a close, and all enjoyed excel- 117 lent healtli, aad were blessed witt good spirits, and zeal far the renewal of their arduous exertions in the sum- mer. "No signs of scurvy, the usual plague of such voy- ages, had occurred, and by the plans of Captain Parry, as carried out on the former voyage, a sufficiency of mustard and cress was raised between decks to afibrd all hands a salad once, and sometimes twice a week. The cold now became intense. Wine froze in the bot- tles. Port was congealed into thin pink laminae, which lay loosely, and occupied the whole length of the bot- tle. White wine, on the contrary, froze into a solid and perfectly transparent mass, resembling amber. On the 1st of February the monotony of their life was varied by the arrival of a large party of Esqui- maux, and an interchange of visits thenceforward took place with this tribe, which, singularly enough, were proverbial for their honesty. Ultimately, however, they began to display some thievish propensities, for on one evening in March a most shocking theft was committed, which was no less than the last piece of English corned beef from the midshipmen's mess. Had it been an 181b. carronade, or even one of the an- chors, the thieves would have been welcome to it ; but to purloin English beef in such a country was unpar- donable. On the 16th of March Captain Lyon, Lieutenant Palmer, and a party of men, left the ship, with pro- visions, tents, &c., in a large sledge, for an excursion of three or four days, to examine the land in the neigh- borhood of the ships. The first night's encampment was anything but com- fortable. Their tent they found so cold, that it was determined to make a cavern *in the snow to sleep in ; and digging this afforded so good an opportunity of warming themselves, that the only shovel was lent from one to the other as a particular favor. After digging it of sufficient size to contain them all in a sitting pos- ture, by means of the smoke of a fire they managed to raise the temperature to 20°, amd, closisg the entrance 118 PEOGRESS OF AECTIG DISCOVEKT. witii blocks of snow, crept into tbeir blanket bags and tried to sleep, with the pleasant reflection that their roof might fall in and bur j them all, and that their one spade was the only me^ns of liberation after a night's drift of snow. They woke next morning to encounter a heavy gale and drift, and found their sledge so embedded in the snow that they could not get at it, and in the attempt their faces and extremities were most painfully frost- bitten. The thermometer was at 32° below zero ; they could not, moreover, see a yard of the road ; yet to re- main appeared worse than to go forward — the last plan was, therefore, decided on. The tent, sledge, and luggage were left behind, and with only a few pounds of bread, a little rum, and a spade, the party again set out ; and in order to depict their sufferings, I must take up the narrative as related by the commander himself : "ISFot knowing where to go, we wandered among the heavy hummocks of ice, and suffering from cold, fatigue and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered. Several of our party now began to exhibit symptoms of that horrid kind of insensibility which is the pre- lude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness to do what they were told in order to keep in exercise, but none obeyed ; on the contrary, they reeled about like drunken men. The faces of several were severely frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost sensation in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not the slightest exertion to rub the parts affected, and even discontinued their general custom of warming each other on observing a discoloration of the skin. Mr. Palmer employed the people in building a snow wall, ostensibly as a shelter from the wind, but in fact to give them exercise, when standing still must have proved fatal to men in our circumstances. My atten- tion w^as exclusively directed to Sergeant Speckman, who, having been repeatedly warned that his nose was frozen, had paid no attention to it, owing to the state of stupefaction into which he had fallen. The frost- bite had now extended over one isid© of his face, which 119 vras frozen as hard as a mask ; the eyelids were stiff, and one corner of the npper lip so drawn np as to expose the teeth and gums. My hands being still warm, I had the happiness of restoring the circnlation, after which I used all my endeavors to keep the poor fellow in motion ; bnt he complained sadly of giddi- ness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be unable to walk without assistance. His case was so alarming, that I expected every moment he would lie down, never to rise again. "Our prospect now became every moment more gloomy, and it was but too probable that four of our party would be unable to survive another hour. Mr. JPalmer, however, endeavored, as well as myself, to cheer the people up, but it was a faint attempt, as we had not a single hope to give them. Every piece of ice, or even of small rock or stone, was now supposed to be the ships, and we had great difficulty in prevent- ing the men from running to the different objects which attracted them, and consequently losing themselves in the drift. In this state, while Mr. Palmer was running round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched on a new beaten track, and as exercise was indispensable, we determined on following it, wherever it might lead us. Having taken the Sergeant under my coat, he re- covered a little, and we moved onward, when to our infinite joy we found that the path led to the ships." As the result of this exposm-e, one man had two of his fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good deal of the fiesh of the upper ends, and for many days it was feared that he would be obliged to have them am- putated. Quarter-master Carr, one of those w^ho had been the most hardy while in the air, fainted twice on getting below, and every one had severe frost-bites in dift'erent parts of the body, which recovered after the usual loss of skin in these cases. One of the Esquimaux females, by name Igloolik, who plays a conspicuous part in the narrative, was a general favorite, being possessed of a large fund of useful information, having a good voice and ear for 120 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. music, being an excellent seamstress, and having such a good idea of the hydrography and bearings of the neighboring sea-coasts, as to draw charts which guided Parry much in his future operations, for he found her sketches to be in the main correct. She connected the J and from their winter quarters to the northwest sea, rounding and terminating the northern extremity of this part of America, by a large island, and a strait of sufficient magnitude to afford a safe passage for the ships. This little northwest passage, observes Lyon, set us all castle-building, and we already fancied the worst part of our voyage over ; or, at all events, that before half the ensuing summer was past, we should arrive at Akkoolee, the Esquimaux settlement on the western shore. Half-way between that coast and Ke- pulse Bay, Igloolik drew on her chart a lake of consid- erable size, having small streams running from it to the sea, on each side ; and the correctness of this infor- mation was fully proved by Kae in his recent expedi- tion in 1846. On the 13th of April their Esquimaux friends took their departure for other quarters ; towards the end of the month the crews completed the cutting of trenches round the vessels, in order that they might rise to their proper bearings previous to working in the holds, and the ships floated like corks on their native element, after their long imprisonment of 191 days. As the season appeared to be improving, another land expedi- tion was determined on, and Captain Lyon and Lieu- tenant Palmer, attended by a party of eight men, set off on the 8th of May, taking with them twenty days' provisions. Each man drew on a sledge 126 lbs., and the officers 95 lbs. a-piece. " Loaded as we were," says the leader, " it was with the greatest difficulty we made our way among and over the hummocks, ourselves and sledges taking some very unpleasant tumbles. It required two and a half hours to cross the ice, although the distance was not two miles, and We then landed on a small island, where we passed the night." paeey's second votagi;. 121 i&A^veral islands and shoals in the strait were named Bird's Isles. At noon on the 11th, they camped at the head of a fine bay, to which the name of Elake was given. In spite of all the care which had been taken bj using crape shades, and other coverings for the eyes, five of the party became severely afflicted with snow blindness. Before evening two of the sufferers were qnite blinded by the inflammation. Their faces, eyes, and even heads, being much swollen, and very red. Bathing would have afforded relief, but the sun did not produce a drop of water, and their stock of fuel being limited, they could only spare enough wood to thaw snow for their midday draught. As the morning of the 12th brought no change in the invalids, another day was lost. Toward evening, by breaking pieces of ice, and placing them in the full flare of the sun, sufficient water was obtained, both for rinking and for the sick to bathe their faces, which afforded them amazing relief, and on the morrow they were enabled to resume their journey. At noon the sun was sufficiently powerful to afford the travelers a draught of water, without having to thaw it, as had hitherto been the case. For nearly three days after this, they were imprisoned in their low tent by a snow-storm, but on the morning of the 18th, they were enabled to sally out to stretch their legs, and catch a glimpse of the sun. After exam- ining many bays and indentations of the coast, the party returned to the ships, on the evening of the 21st. A canal was now cut through the ice, to get the ships to the open water, in length 2400 feet, and varying in breadth from 60 to 197 feet. The average thickness of the ice was four feet, but in some places it was as much as twelve feet. This truly arduous task had occupied the crews for fifteen days, from six in the morning to eight in the evening ; but they labored at it with the greatest spirit and good humor, and it was concluded on the 18th of June, when the officers and men began to take leave of their several haunts and promenades, particularly the " garden " of each ship, which had become favorite 122 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERY. lounges during their nine montlis' detention. A few ill-fated bunting came near enough to be shot, and were instantly roasted for a farewell supper, and bright vis- ions of active exertions on the water on. the morrow were universally entertained. But the night dispelled all these airy castles, for with the morning's dawn they found that the whole body of ice astern of the ships had broke adrift, filled up the hard-wrought canal, and imprisoned them as firm as ever. Death now for the first time visited the crews. James Pringle, a seaman of the Hecla, fell from the mast-head to the deck, and was killed on the 18th of May. Wm. Souter, quarter-master, and John Reid, Carpenter's mate, belonging to the Fury, died on the 26th and 2Tth, of natural causes. Toward the end of June, the sea began to clear rapidly to the eastward, and the bay ice soon gave way as far as where the ships were lying, and on the 2d of July they put to sea with a fresh breeze, after having been frozen in for 267 days. In making their way to the northward, they were fre- quently in much danger. On the 3d, the ice came down on the Hecla with such force as to carry her on board the Fury, by which the Hecla broke her best bower anchor, and cut her waist-boat in two. On the 4:th, the pressure of the ice was so great as to break the Hecla adrift from three hawsers. Four or five men were each on separate pieces of ice, parted from the ships in the endeavor to run out a hawser. A heavy pressure closing the loose ice unexpectedly gave them a road on board again, or they must have been carried away by the stream to certain destruction. On the 8th, the Hecla had got her stream-cable out, in addition to the other hawsers, and made fast to the land ice, when a very heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broad side, and being backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted her stem as if by the action of a wedge. " The weight every moment increasing, obliged us,'' says Captain Lyon, " to veer on the hawsers, whose fric- tion was so great as nearly to cut through the bitt-heads, and ultimately to set them on fire, so that it became - PAEEy's SEdOND VOYAGE. 123 requisite for people to attend with buckets of water. The pressure was at length too powerful for resistance, and the stream-cable, with two six and one live-inch hawsers, all gave way at the same moment, three others soon following them. The sea was too full of ice to allow the ship to drive, and the only way in which she could yield to the enormous w^eight which oppressed her, was by leaning over on the land ice, while her stem at the same time was entirely lifted to above the height of five feet out of the water. The lower deck beams now complained very much, and the whole frame of the ship underwent a trial which would have proved fatal to any less strengthened vessel. At the same moment, the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, which broke up the rudder-case, and struck the driver-boom with great force." From this perilous position she was released almost by a miraclCj and the rudder re-hung. The ships a", last reached the island which had been so accurately described to them by the Esquimaux lady — • Iglolik, where they came upon an encampment of 120 Esquimaux, in tents. Captains Parry and Lyon and other officers made frequent exploring excursions along the shores of the Fury and Hecla strait, and in- land. On the 26th of August the ships entered this strait, which was found blocked up with flat ice. The season had also now assumed so wintry an aspect that there seemed but little probability of getting much far- ther west : knowing of no harbor to protect the ships, unless a favorable change took place, they had the gloomy prospect before them of wintering in or near this frozen strait. Boating and land parties wei^ dis- patched in several directions, to report upon the differ- , ent localities. On the 4th of September, Captain Lyon landed on an island of slate formation, about six miles to the west- w^ard of the ships, w^hich he named Amherst Island. The result of these expeditions proved that it was impr'cJ- cable, either by boats or water conveyance, to examine any part of the land southwest of Iglolik, in conse- quence of the ice. 124: PROGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEET. Mr. Eeid and a boat-party traveled about sixty miles to the westward of Amherst Island, and ascertained the termination of the strait. On a consultation with the officers, Captain Parry determined to seek a berth near to Iglolik, in which to secure the ships for the winter. They had now been sixty-five days struggling to get forward, but had only in that time reached forty miles to the westward of Iglolik. The vessels made the best of their way to the natural channel between this island and the land, but were for some time drifted with the ice, losing several anchors, and it was only by hard work in cutting channels that they were brought into safer quarters, near the land. Some fine teams of dogs were here purchased from the Esquimaux, which were found very serviceable in making excursions on sledges. Their second Christmas day in this region had now arrived, and Lyon informs us — " Captain Parry dined with me, and was treated with a superb display of mustard and cress, with about fifty onions, rivaling a fine needle in size, which I had reared in boxes round my cabin stove. AU our messes in either ship were supplied with an extra pound of real English fresh beef, which had been hanging at our quarter for eighteen months. "We could not afibrd to leave it for a farther trial of keeping, but I have no doubt that double the period would not have quite spoiled its flavor." This winter proved much more severe than the for- mer. Additional clothing was found necessary. The stove funnels collected a quantity of ice within them, notwithstanding fires were kept up night and day, so that jt was frequently requisite to take them down in order to break and melt the ice out of them. Nothing was seen of the sun for forty-two days. On the 15th of April, Mr. A. Elder, Greenland mate of the Hecla, died of dropsy: he had been leading man with Parry on Eoss's voyage, and for his good conduct •^as made mate of the Griper, on the last expedition. On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. George Fife, the pilot, also died of scurvy. VOYAGE. 125 After taking a review of their provisions, and the probability of having to pass a third winter here, Capt. Farry determined to send the Hecla home, taking from her all the provision that could be spared. Little or no hopes could be entertained of any passage being found to the westward, otherwise than by the strait now so firmly closed with ice ; but Parry trusted that some interesting additions might be made to the geography of these dreary regions, by attempting a passage to the northward or eastward, in hopes of finding an outlet to Lancaster Sound, or Prince Kegent's Lilet. On the 21st of April, 1823, they began transshipping the provisions ; the teams of dogs being found most useful for this purpose. Even two anchors of 22 cwt. each, wer^ drawn by these noble animals at a quick trot. Upon admitting daylight at the stern windows of the Hecla, on the 22d, the gloomy, sooty cabin showed to no great advantage ; no less than ten buckets of ice were taken from the sashes and out of the stern lockers, from which latter some spare flannels and instruments were only liberated by chopping. On the 7th of June, Captain Lyon, with a party of men, set off across the Melville Peninsula, to endeavor to get a sight of the western sea, of which they had re- ceived descriptive accounts from the natives, but ow- ing to the diflieulties of traveling, and the ranges of mountains they met with, they returned unsuccessful, after being out twenty days. Another inland trip of a fortnight followed. On the 1st of August, the Hecla was reported ready for sea. Some symptoms of scurvy having again made their appearance in the ships, and the surgeons report- ing that it would not be prudent to continue longer, Captain Parry reluctantly determined to proceed home with both ships. After being 319 days in their winter quarters, the ships got away on the 9th of August. A conspicuous landmark, with dispatches, was set up on the main-land, for the information of Franklin^ should he reach this auarter. 126 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. On reaching Winter Island, and visiting their laa year's garden, radishes, mnstard and cress, and onion» were brought off, which had survived the winter and were still alive, seventeen months from the time they were planted, a very remarkable proof of their having been preserved by the warm covering of snow. The ships, during the whole of this passage, were driven by the current more than three degrees, entirely at the mercy of the ice, being carried into every bight, and swept over each point, without the power of help- ing themselves. On the 1st of September, they were driven up Lyon Inlet, where they were confined high up till the 6th, when a breeze sprung up, which took them down to within three miles of Winter Island ; still it was not until the 12th, that they got thoroughly clear of the in- draught. The danger and suspense of these twelve days were horrible, and Lyon justly observes, that he would prefer being frozen up during another eleven months' winter, to again passing so anxious a period of time. " Ten of the twelve nights were passed on deck, in expectation, each tide, of some decided change in our affairs, either by being left on the rocks, or grounding in such shoal water, that the whole body of the ice must have slid over us. But, as that good old seaman Baffin expresses himself, ' God, who is greater than either ice or tide, always delivered us ! '" For thirty-five days the ships had been beset, and in that period had driven with the ice above 300 miles, without any exertion on their part, and also without a possibility of extricating themselves. On the 23d of September, they once more got into the swell of the Atlantic, and on the 10th of October, arrived at Ler- wick, in Shetland. Claveeing's Yoyage to Spitzbeegen and Gree^t- LAND, 1823. In 1823, Capt. Sabine, E. A., who had been for some tiine eugaged in magnetic observations, and also ia 127 oxperiments to determine the configuration of the earth, by means of pendulum vibrations in different latitudes, having perfected his observations at different points, from the Equator to the Arctic Circle, suggested to the Eojal Society, through Sir Humphry Davy, the impor- tance of extending similar experiments into higher lat- itudes toward the Pole. Accordingly, the government placed at his disposal H. M. S. Griper, 120 tons, Com- mander Clavering, which was to convey him to Spitz- bergen, and thence to the east coast of Greenland. The Griper sailed from the ISTore, on the 11th of May, and proceeded to Hammerfest, or Whale Island, near the ISTorth Cape, in Norway, which she reached on the 4:th of June, and Capt. Sabine having finished his shore observations by the 23d, the vessel set sail for Spitzber- gen. She fell in with ice oft' Cherry Island, in lat. 75° 6', on the 27th, and on the 30th disembarked the tents and instruments on one of the small islands round Hakluyt's Headland, near the eightieth parallel. Capt. Clavering, meanwhile, sailed in the Griper due north, and reached the latitude of 80° 20', where being stop- ped by close packed ice, he was obliged to return. On the 24th of July, they again put to sea, directing their course for the highest known point of the eastern, coast of Greenland. They met with many fields of ice, and made the land, which had a most miserable, deso- late appearance, at a point which was named Cape Bor- lase Warren. Two islands were discovered, and as Capt. Sabine here landed and carried on his observa- tions, they were called Pendulum Islands. From an island situate in lat. 75° 12', to which he gave the name of Shannon Island, Clavering saw high land, stretch- ing due north as far as lat. 76°. On the 16th of August, Clavering landed with a party of three ofiicers, and sixteen men on the main- land, to examine the shores. The temperature did not sink below 23°, and they slept for nearly a fortnight they were on shore with only a boat-cloak and blanket for a covering, without feeling any inconvenience from the cold. A tribe of twelve Esquimaux was met v/ith 128 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY^ here. They reached in their journey a magniiicenl inlet, about fifty miles in circumference, which was sup- posed to be the same wiiich Gale Hamkes discovered in 1654, and which bears his name. The mountains round its .sides were 4000 to 5000 feet high. On the 29th of August, they returned on board, and having embarked the tents and instruments, the ship again set sail on the 31st, keeping the coast in view to Cape Parry, lat. 72 i°. The cliffs were observed to be sev- eral thousand feet high. On the 13th of September, as the ice in shore began to get very troublesome, the ship stood out to sea, and after encountering a very heavy gale, which drove them with great fury to tho southward, and it not being thought prudent to make for Ireland, a station in about the same latitude on the I^orway coast was chosen instead by Capt. Sabine. They made the land about the latitude of Christian- sound. On the 1st of October, the Griper struck hard on a sunken rock, but got off undamaged. On the 6th, they anchored in Drontheim Fiord, where they were received with much kindness and hos- pitality, and after the necessary observations had been completed the ship proceeded homeward, and reached Deptford on the 19th of December, 1^23. Lyon's Yoyage in the Griper. In 1824, three expeditions were ordered out, to carry on simultaneous operations in Arctic discovery. To Capt. Lyon was committed the task of examining and completing the survey of the Melville Peninsula, the adjoining straits, and the shores of Arctic America, if possible as far as Franklin's turning point. Capt. Lyon was. therefore gazetted to the Griper gun-brig, which had taken out Capt. Sabine to Spitzbergen, in the pre- vious year. The following officers and crew were also appointed to her : — Griper, Captain — G. F. Lyon. Lieutenants — P. Manico and F. Harding. 129 A^cSistant-Surveyor — E. E". Kendal. Purser — J. Evans. Assistant-Surgeon — W. Le json. Midshipman — J. Tom. 34 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Total complement, 41. It was not till the 20th of June, that the Griper got hway from England, being a full month later than the usual period of departure, and the vessel Was at the best but an old tub in her sailing propensities. A small tender, called the Snap^ was ordered to accompany her with stores, as far as the ice, and having been relieved of her supplies, she was sent home on reaching Hud- son's Straits. The Griper made but slow progress in her deeply la- den state, her crowded decks being continually swept by heavy seas, and it was not until the end of August, that she rounded the southern head of Southampton Island, and stood up toward Sir Thomas Koe's "VVel come. On reaching the entrance of this channel they encountered a terrific gale, which for a long time threatened the destruction of both ship and crew. Drifting with this, they brought up the ship with four anchors, in a bay with ^yq fathoms and a half water, in the momentary expectation that with the ebb tide the ship would take the ground, as the sea broke fear- fully on a low sandy beach just astern, and had the an- chors parted, nothing could have saved the vessel. ISTeither commander nor crew had been in bed for three nights, and although little hope was entertained of sur- viving the gale, and no boat could live in such a sea, the officers and crew performed their several duties with their accustomed coolness. Each man was or- dered to put on his warmest clothing, and to take charge of some useful instrument. The scene is best described in the words of the gallant commander : — "Each, therefore, brought his bag on deck, and dressed himself; and in the fine athletic forms which stood exposed before me, I did not see one muscle qui- 9 130 PROGIiESS OF A.RCTIO DISCOVERT. ver, nor the slightest sign of alarm. Prayers were read, .and they then all sat down in gronps, sheltered from the wash of the sea by whatever they could find, and some endeavored to obtain a little sleep. Never, perhaps was witnessed a finer scene than on the deck of m^ little ship, when all hope of life had left us. Noble as the character of the British sailor is always allowed to be in cases of danger, yet I did not believe it to be pos- sible that among forty-one persons not one repining word should have been uttered. Each was at peace with his neighbor and all the world ; and I am firmly persuaded that the resignation which was then shown to the will of the Almighty, was the means of obtain- ing His mercy. God was merciful to us, and the tide, almost miraculously, fell no lower." The appropriate name of the Bay of God's Mercy has been given to this spot on the charts by Captain Lyon. Proceeding onward up the Welcome, they encoun- tered, about a fortnight later, another fearful storm; On the 12th of September, when off the entrance of Wager Inlet, it blew so hard for two days, that on the 13th the ship was driven from her anchors, and carried away by the fury of the gale, with every prospect of being momentarily dashed to pieces against any hid- den rock ; but the same good Providence which had so recently befriended them, again stood their protec- tor. On consulting with his ofiicers, it was unani- mously resolved, that in the crippled state of the ship, without any anchor, and with her compasses worse than useless, it would be madness to continue the voy- age, and the ship's course was therefore shaped for England. I may observe, that the old Griper is now laid up as a hulk in Chichester Harbor, furnishing a residence and depot for the coast guard station. Paery's Third Yoyage. In the spring of 1824 the Admiralty determined to give Capt. Parry another opportunity of caiTying ort parry's third voyage. 131 the great problem which had so long been songht af- ter, of a northwest passage to the Pacific, and so gen- erally esteemed was this gallant commander that he had but to hoist his pennant, when fearless of all dan- ger, and in a noble spirit of emulation, his former as- sociates rallied aronnd him. The same two ships were employed as before, bm Parry now selected the Hecla for his pennant. The staff of officers and men was as follows ; — Hecla, Captain — W. E. Parry. Lieutenants — J. L. Wynn, Joseph Sherer, and Henry Foster. Surgeon — Samuel ITeill, M. D. Purser — W. H. Hooper. Assistant Surgeon — "W. Rowland. Midshipmen — J. Brunton, F. R. M. Crozier, C. Richards, and H. JST. Head. Greenland Pilots — J. Allison, master; and G. Champion, mate. 49 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines. Total complement, 62. Fury, Commander — H. P. Hoppner. Lieutenants — H. T. Austin and J. 0. Ross. Surgeon — A. M'Laren. Purser — J. Halse. Assistant Surgeon — T. Bell. Midshipmen — B. Westropp, C. C. "Waller, and E. Bird. Clerk ■ — W. Mogg. Greenland Pilots — G. Crawford, master ; T. Don- aldson, mate. 48 Petty Officers, Seamen, and Marines, Total complement, 60. The "William Harris, transport, was commissioned U) accompany the ships to the ice with provisions. 132 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCO VEEY. Among the promotions made, it will be seen, were Lieut. Hoppner to the rank of Commander, and second in command of the expedition. Messrs. J. Sherer, and J. 0. Ross to be Lieutenants, and J. Halse to be Purser. The attempt on this occasion was to be made by Lancaster Sound through Barrow's Strait to Prince Pegent Inlet. The ships sailed on the 19th of May, 1821, and a month afterward fell in with the body of the ice in lat. 601°. After transhipping the stores to the two vessels, and sending home the transport, about the middle of July they were close beset with the ice in Baffin's Ba}^, and "from this time (says Parry) the obstructions from the quantity, magnitude, and close- ness of the ice, which were such as to keep our people almost constantly employed in heaving, warping, or sawing through it; and yet with so little success that, at the close of July, we had only penetrated seventy miles to the westward." After encountering a severe gale on the 1st of August, by which masses of overlay- ing ice were driven one upon the other, the Hecla was laii on her broadside by a strain, which Parry says must inevitably have crushed a vessel of ordinary strength ; they got clear of the chief obstructions by the first week in September. During the whole of August they had not one day sufficiently free from rain, snow, or sleet, to be able to air the bedding of the ship's company. They entered Lancaster Sound on the 10th of Sep- tember, and with the exception of a solitary berg or two found it clear of ice. A few days after, however, they fell in with the young ice, which increasing daily in thickness, the ships became beset, and by the cur- rent which set to the east at the rate of three miles an hour, they were soon drifted back to the eastward of Admiralty Inlet, and on the 23d they found them- selves again off Wollaston Island, at the entrance of Navy Board Inlet. By perseverance, however, and the aid of a strong easterly breeze, they once more man- aged to recover their lost ground, and on the 27tb reached the entrance of Port Bowen on the eastern J pakey's thied voyage. 133 eliore of Prince Eegent Inlet, and here Parry resolved upon wintering; this making the fourth winter this enterj^rising commander had passed in these inhospi- table seas. The -Qsual laborious process of cutting canals had to be resorted to, in order to get the ships near to the shore in secure and sheltered situations. Parry thus describes the dreary monotonous character of an arctic winter : — "It is hard to conceive any one thing more like another than two winters passed in the higlier latitudes of the polar regions, excej)t when variety happens to be afforded by intercourse with seme other branch of the whole family of man. Winter after winter, nature here assumes an aspect so much alike, that cursory ob- servation can scarcely detect a single feature of variety. The winter of more temperate climates, and even in some of no slight severity, is occasionally diversified by a thaw, w^hich at once gives variety and compara- tive cheerfulness to the prospect. But here, when once the earth is covered, all is dreary monotonous white- ness, not merely for days or weeks, but for more than half a year together. Whichever way the eye is turn- ed, it meets a picture calculated to impress upon the mind an idea of inanimate stillness, of that motionless torpor with which our feelings have nothing congenial ; of any thing, in short, but life. In the very silence there is a deadness with which a human spectator ap- pears out of Ikeeping. The presence of man seems an intrusion on the dreary solitude of this wintry desert, which even its native animals have for awhile forsaken." During this year Parry tells us the thermometer re- mained below zero 131 days, and did not rise above that point till the 11th of April. The sun, which had been absent from their view 121 days, again blessed the crews with his rays on the 22 d of February. Du- ring this long imprisonment, schools, scientific observa- tions, walking parties, &c., were resorted to, but " our former amusements," says Parry, " being almost worn threadbare, it required some ingenuity to devise any 6* 134: PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. plan that should possess the charm of novelty to re- commend it." A happy idea was, however, hit upon by Commander Hoppner, at whose suggestion a monthly bal Qjiasque was held, to the great diversion of both officers and men, to the number of 120. The popular commander entered gayly into their recreations, and thus speaks of these polar masquerades : — " It is impossible that any idea could have proved more happy, or more exactly suited to our situation. Admirably dressed characters of various descriptions readily took their parts, and many of these were sup- ported with a degree of spirit and genuine good humor which would not have disgraced a more refined assem- bly ; while the latter might not have been disgraced by copying the good order, decorum, and inofliensive cheerfulness which our humble masquerades presented. It does especial credit to the dispositions and good sense of our men, that though all the officers entered fully into the spirit of these amusements, which took place once a month alternately on board of each ship, no instance occurred of any thing that could interfere with the regular discipline, or at all weaken the respect of the men toward their superiors. Ours were mas querades without licentiousness — carnivals without excess." Exploring parties were sent out in several directions. Commander Hoppner and his party went inland, and after a fortnight's fatiguing journey over a mountain- ous, barren, and desolate country, where precipitous ra- vines 500 feet deep obstructed their passage, traveled a degree and three-quarters — to the latitude of 73° 19', but saw no appearance of sea from thence. Lieutenant Sherer, with four men, proceeded to the southward, and made a careful survey of the coast as far as 72 i^, but had not provisions sufficient to go round Cape Kater, the southernmost point observed in their former voyage. Lieutenant J. C. Eoss, with a similar party, traveled to the northward, along the coast of the Inlet, and from the hills about Cape York, observed that the sea was perfectly open and free from ice at tlie distance of twenty-two miles from the ships. After an imprisonment of about ten months, by great exertions the ships were got clear from the ice, and on the 20th of Jnly, 1825, upon the separation of the iioe across the harbor, towed out to sea. Parry then made for the western shore of the Inlet, being desirous of ex- amining the coast of North Somerset for any channel that might occur, a probability which later discoveries in that quarter have proved to be without foundation. On the 28th, when well in with the western shore, the Hecla, in spite of every exertion, was beset by floating ice, and after breaking two large ice anchors in en- deavoring to heave in shore, was obliged to give up the effort and drift with the ice until the 30th. On the following day, a heavy gale came on, in which the Hecla carried away three hawsers, while the Fury was driven on shore, but was hove off at high water. Both ships were now drifted by the body of the ice down the Inlet, and took the ground, the Fury being so nipped and strained that she leaked a great deal, and four pumps kept constantly at work did not keep her clear of water. They were floated off' at high water, but, late on the 2nd of August, the huge masses of ice once more forced the Fury on shore, and the Hecla narrowly escaped. On examining her and getting her off, it was found that she must be hove down and repaired ; a basin was therefore formed for her reception and completed by the 16th, a mile further to the southward, within three icebergs grounded, where there were three or four fathoms of water. Into this basin she was taken on the 18th, and her stores and provisions being removed, she was hove down, but a gale of wind com- ing on and destroying the masses of ice which shel- tered her, it became necessary to re-embark the stores, &c., and once more put to sea ; but the unfortunate vessel had hardly got out of her harbor before, on the 21st, she was again driven on shore. After a careful survey and examination, it was found necessary to abandon her ; Parry's opinion being thus expressed — 1^6 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. " Every endeavor of ours to get her off, or if got off, to float her to any known place of safety, would be at once utterly hopeless in itself, and productive of ex- treme risk to our remaining ship." The loss of this ship, and the crowded state of the remaining vessel, made it impossible to think of con- tinuing the voyage for the purposes of discovery. " The incessant labor, the constant state of anxiety, and the frequent and imminent danger into which the surviving ship was thrown, in the attempts to save her comrade, which were continued for twenty-five days, destroyed every reasonable expectation hitherto cher- ished of the ultimate accomplishment of this object." Taking advantage of a northerly wind, on the 27th the Hecla stretched across the Inlet for the eastern coast, meeting with little obstruction from the ice, and anchored in [N'eill's Harbor, a short distance to the southward of their winter quarters, Port Bowen, where the ship was got ready for crossing the Atlantic. The Hecla put to sea on the 31st of August, and en- tering Barrow's Strait on the 1st of September, found it perfectly clear of ice. In Lancaster Sound, a very large number of bergs were seen ; but they found an open sea in Bafiin's Bay, till, on the 7th of September, when in latitude 75° 30', they came to the margin of ^he ice, and soon entered a clear channel on its eastern side. From thirty to forty large icebergs, not less than 200 feet in height, were sighted. On the 12th of October, Captain Parry landed at Peterhead, and the Hecla arrived at Sheerness on the 20th. But one man died during this voyage — John Page, a seaman of the Fury — who died of scurvy, in I:^eili's Harbor, on the 29th of August. This voyage cannot but be considered the most unsuc- cessful of the three made by Parry, whether as regards the information gleaned on the subject of a northwest passage, or the extension of our store of geographical or scientific knowledge. The shores of this inlet were more naked, barren, and desolate than even Melville Island. "With the exception of some hundreds of white 13T whales, seen sporting about the southernmost part of the Inlet that was visited, few other species of animals were seen. " We have scarcely," says Parry, " ever visited a coast on which so little of animal life occurs. For days to- gether only one or two seals, a single sea-horse, and now and then a flock of ducks were seen." He still clings to the accomplishment of the great object of a northwest passage. At page 184 of his offi- cial narrative, he says: — " I feel confident that the undertaking, if it be deemed advisable at any future time to^pursue it, will one day or other be accomplished ; for — setting aside the acci- dents to which, from their very nature, such attempts must be liable, as well as other unfavorable circum- stances which human foresight can never guard against, or human power control — I cannot but believe it to be an enterprise well within the reasonable limits of practicability. It may be tried often and fail, for seve- ral favorable and fortunate circumstances must be com- •bined for its accomplishment ; but I believe, neverthe- less, that it will ultimately be accomplished." "lam much mistaken, indeed," he adds, "if the northwest passage ever becomes the business of a single summer ; nay, I believe that nothing but a concurrence of very favorable circumstances is likely ever to make a single winter in the ice sufficient for its accomplish- ment. But there is no argument against the possibility of final success ; for we know that a winter in the ice may be passed not only in safety, but in health and comfort." Not one winter alone, but two and three have been passed with health and safety in these seas, under a wise and careful commander. Fkai^klin's Second Expedition, 1825-26. Undaunted by the hardships and sufferings he had encountered in his previous travels with a noble spirit of ardor and enthusiasm, Captain Franklin determined 138 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYEITa^. to prosecute tlie chain of his former discoveries from the Coppermine river to the most western point of the Arctic regions. A sea expedition, under the command of Captain Beechey was at the same time sent round Cape Horn to Behring's Straits, to co-operate with Parry and Franklin, so as to furnish provisions to the former, and a conveyance home to the latter. Captain Franklin's offer was therefore accepted by the government, and leaving Liverpool in February, 1825, he arrived at 'New York about the middle of March. The officers under his orders were his old and tried companions and fellow sufferers in the former jour- ney — Dr. Richardson and Lieutenant Back, with Mr. E. JSr. Kendal, a mate in the navy, who had been out in the Griper with Capt. Lyon, and Mr. T. Drummond, a naturalist. Four boats, specially prepared for the pur- poses of the expedition, were sent out by the Hudson's Bay Company's ship. In July, 1825, the party arrived at Fort Chipewyan. It is unnecessary to go over the ground and follow them in their northern journey; suffice it to say, they reached Great Bear Lake in safety, and erected a winter dwell- ing on its western shore, to which the name of Fort Franklin was given. To Back and Mr. Dease, an offi- cer in the Hudson's Bay Company's service, were in trusted the arrangements for their winter quarters. From here a small party set out with Franklin down the Mackenzie to examine the state of the Polar Sea. On the 5th of September they got back to their com- panions, and prepared to pass the long winter of seven or eight months. On the 28th of June, 1826, the season being suffi- ciently advanced, and all their preparations completed, the whole party got away in four boats to descend the Mackenzie to the Polar Sea. Where the river branches 6ff into several channels, the party separated on the 3d of July, Captain Franklin and Lieutenant Back, with two boats and fourteen men, having with them the faithful Esquimaux interpreter, Augustus, who had been with them on the former expedition, proceeded to 139 the westward, while Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendal in the other two boats, having ten men under their command, set out in an easterly direction, to search the Coppermine River. Franldin arrived at the mouth of the Mackenzie on the 7th of July, where he encountered a large tribe of fierce Esquimaux, wlio pillaged his boats, and it was only by great caution, prudence and forbearance, that the whole party were not massacred. After getting the boats afloat, and clear of these unpleasant visitors, Franklin pursued his survey, a most tedious and diffi- cult one, for more than a month ; he was only able to' reach a point in latitude 70° 24' IST., longitude 149° 37' W., to which Back's name was given ; and here pru- dence obliged him to return, although, strangely enough, a boat from the Blossom was waiting not 160 miles west of his position to meet with him. The extent of coast surveyed was 374 miles. The return journey to Fort Franklin was safely accomplished, and they arrived at their house on the 31st of September, when they found Richardson and Kendal had returned on the first of the month, having accomplished a voyage of about 500 miles, or 902 by the coast line, between the 4th of July and the 8th of August. They had pushed forward be- yond the strait named after their boats, the Dolphin and tJnion. In ascending the Coppermine, they had to abandon their boats and. carry their provisions and baggage. Having passed another winter at Fort Franklin, as soon as tne season broke U23 the Canadians were dis- missed, and the party returned to England. The cold experienced in the last winter was intense, the thermometer standing at one time at 58° below zero, but having now plenty of food, a weather-tight dwell- ing, and good health, they passed it cheerfully. Dr. Richardson gave a course of lectures on practical geol- ogy, and Mr. Drummond furnished information on natu- ral history. During the winter, in a solitary hut on the Rocky mountains, he managed to collect 200 specimens of birds, animals, &c., and more than 1500 of plants. 140 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. When Captain Franklin left England to proceecl on this expedition he had to nndergo a severe struggle between his feelings of affection and a sense of duty. His wife (he has been married twice) was then lying at the point of death, and indeed died the day after he left England. But wdth heroic fortitude she urged his departure at the very day a23pointed, entreating him, as he valued her peace and his own glory, not to delay a moment on her account. His feelings, therefore, may be inferred, but not described, w^hen he had to elevate on Garry Island a silk flag, which she had made and given him as a parting gift, with the instruction that he was only to hoist it on reaching the Polar Sea. Beechey's Yoyage.— 1826-28. H. M. SLOOP Blossom, 26, Captain F. "W. Beechey, sailed from Spithead on the 19th of May, 1825, and her instructions directed her, after surveying some of the islands in the Pacific, to be in Behring's Straits by tlie summer or autumn of 1826, and contingently in that of 1827. It is foreign to my purpose here to allude to those parts of her voyage anterior to her arrival in the Straits. On the 28th of June the Blossom came to an anchor off tlie town of Petropolowski, wdiere she fell in with the Russian ship of war Modesto, under the commano of Baron Wrangel, so well known for his enterprise ir- the hazardous expedition by sledges over the ice to thf nortliward of Cape Shelatskoi, or Errinos. Captain Beechey here found dispatches informing liim of the return of Parry's expedition. Being besei by currents and other difficulties, it w^as not till the 5tb of July that the Blossom got clear of the harbor, and made the best of her way to Kotzebue Sound, reaching tlio appointed rendezvous at Chamiso Island on the 25th. After landing and burying a barrel of flour upon Puffin Pock, the most unfrerpiented sj^ot about tlie island, tho Blossom occupied the time in surveying and examining BEECHET S VOYAGE. 141 the neighboring coasts to the northeast. On the 30th she took her departure from the island, erecting posts or land-marks, and bnrjing dispatches at Cape Xrnsen- stern, near a cajpe which he named after Franklin, near Icj Cape. The ship returned to the rendezvous on the evening of the 28th of August. The barrel of flour had been dug up and appropriated, by the natives. On the first visit of one of these parties, they con- structed a chart of the coast ' upon . the sand, of which, however, Captain Beechey at first took very little notice. "They, however, renewed their labor, and performed tlieir work upon the sandy beach in a very ingenious and intelligible manner. The coast line was first marked out with a stick, and the distances regulated by the day's journey. The hills and ranges of mountains were next shown by elevations of sand or stone, and the islands represented by heaps of pebbles, their propor- tions being duly attended to. As the work proceeded, some of the bystanders occasionally suggested altera- tions, and Captain Beechey moved one of the Diomede Islands, which was misplaced. This was at first ob- jected to by the hydrographer, but one of the party recollecting that the islands were seen in one from Cape Prince of Wales, confirmed its new position and made the mistake quite evident to the others, who were much surjDrised that Captain Beechey should have any knowl- edge of the subject. When the mountains and islands were erected, the villages and fishing-stations were marked by a number of sticks placed upright, in imita- tion of those which are put up on the coast wherever these people fix their abode. In time, a complete hy- drographical plan was drawn from Cape Derby to Cape Xrusenstern. This ingenuity and accuracy of description on the part of the Esquimaux is worthy of particular remark, and has been verified by almost all the Arctic explorers. The" barge which had been dispatched to the east- ward, under charge of Mr. Elson, reached to latitude 71° 23' 31" K, and longitude 156° 21' 31'' W., where 142 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY she was stopped by the ice which was i Xached to the shore. The farthest tongue of land they reached was named Point Barrow, and is about 126 miles northeast of Icy Cape, being only about 150 c 160 miles from Franklin's discoveries west of the M.^ ckenzie river. The wind suddenly;changing to southwest, the com- pact body of ice began to drift with the current to the northeast at the rate of three and a half miles an hour, and Mr. Elson, finding it difiicult to avoid large floating masses of ice, was obliged to come to an anchor to pre- vent being driven back. " It was not long before he was so closely beset in the ice, that no clear water could be seen in any direction from the hills, and the ice continuing to press against the shore, his vessel was driven upon the beach, and there left upon her broad- side in a most helpless condition ; and to add to his cheerless prospect ohe disposition of the natives, whom he found to increase in numbers as he advanced to the northward, was of a very doubtful character. At Point Barrow, where they were very numerous, their over- bearing behavior, and the thefts they openly prac- ticed, left no doubt of what would be the fate of his little crew, in the event of their falling into their power. They were in this dilemma several days, dur- ing which every endeavor was made to extricate the vessel but without effect, and Mr. Elson contemplated sinking her secretly in a lake that was near, to prevent her falling into the hands of the Esquimaux, and then making his way along the coast in a baidar, which he had no doubt he should be able to purchase from tlie natives. At length, however, a change of wind loos- ened the ice, and after considerable labor and trial, in which the personal strength of the officers was united to that of the seamen, Mr. Elson, with his shipmates, fortunately succeeded in effecting their escape. Captain Beechey was very anxious to remain in Kotzebue Sound until the end of October, the period named in his instructions, but the rapid approach of winter, the danger of being locked up, having only five weeks' provisions left, and the nearest point at beechey's voyage. 143 whicli lie could replenish being some 2000 miles dis- tant, induced his officers to concur with him in the necessity of leaving at once. A barrel of flour and other articles were buried on the sandy point of Cha- miso, for Franklin, which it was hoped would escape the prying eyes of the natives. After a cruise to California, the Sandwich Islands, Loochoo, the Bonin Islands, &c., the Blossom returned to Chamiso Island on the 5th of July, 182T. They found the flour and dispatches they had left the pre- vious year unmolested. Lieut. Belcher was dispatched in the barge to explore the coast to the northward, and the ship followed her as soon as the wind permitted. On the 9th of September, when standing in for the northern shore of Kotzebue Sound, the ship drifting with the current took the ground on a sand-bank neai Hotham Inlet, but the wind moderating, as the tide rose she went off the shoal apparently without injury. After this narrow escape from shipwreck they beat up to Chamiso Island, which they reached on the 10th of September. I^ot finding the barge returned as ex- pected, the coast was scanned, and a signal of distress found flying on the southwest point of Choris Pen- insula, and two men waving a white cloth to attract notice. On landing, it was found that this party were the crew of the barge, which had been wrecked in Kot- zebue Sound, and three of -the men were also lost. On the 29th a collision took place with the natives, which resulted in three of the seamen and four of the marines being wounded by arrows, and one of the na- tives killed by the return fire. After leaving advices for Franklin, as before, the Blossom finally left Chamiso on the 6th of October. In a haze and strong wind she ran between the land and a shoal, and a passage had to be forced through breakers at the imminent danger of the ship's striking. The Blossom then made the best of her way home, reaching England in the first week of October, 1828. 144 pkogeess of aectio discoyeet. Paeey's Foxjeth, oe Polae Yoyage, 1827. In 1826, Capt. Parry, who had only returned from his last voyage in the close of the preceding year, was much struck by the suggestions of Mr. Scoresby, in a paper read before the Wernerian Society, in which he sketched out a plan for reaching the highest latitudes of the Polar Sea, north of Spitzbergen, by means of sledge boats drawn over the smooth fields of ice which were known to prevail in those regions. Col. Beau- foy, F. E. S., had also suggested this idea some years previously. Comparing these with a similar plan orig- inally proposed by Captain Franklin, and which was placed in his hands by Mr. Barrow, the Secretary of the Admiralty, Capt. Parry laid his modified views of the feasibility of the project, and his willingness to un- dertake it, before Lord Melville, the First Lord of the Admiralty, who, after consulting with the President and Council of the Poyal Society, was pleased to sanc- tion the attempt ; accordingly, his old ship, the Hecla, was fitted out for the voyage to Spitzbergen, the fol- lowing officers, (all of whom had been with Parry be- fore,) and crew being appointed to her : — Hecla. Captain — TV. E. Parry. Lieutenants — J. C. Poss, Henry Foster, E. J. Bird, F. K. M. Crozier. Purser — James Halse. Surgeon — C. J. Beverley. On the 4th of April, 1827, the outfit and prepara- tions being completed, the Hecla left the ISTore for the coast of ISTorway, touching at Hammerfest, to embark eight reindeer, and some moss {Cenomyce Tangiferilia) sufficient for their support, the consumption being about 4 lbs. per day, but they can go without food for several days. A tremendous gale of wind, experienced Oif Hakhiyt's Headland, and the quantity of ice vrith wriich tlie Si;i]:> was in consequence bepet, detained the voyagers for nearly a nnontli, bat on the ISth of June, 145 a southerly wind dispersing the ice, they dropped anchor in a cove, on the northern coast of Spitzbergen, which appeared to offer a secure haven, and to which the name of the ship was given. On the 20th, the boats, which had been especially prepared in England for this kind of journey, were got out and made ready, and they left the ship on the 22d of June. A descrip- tion of these boats may not here be out of place. They were twenty feet long and seven broad, flat floored, like ferry boats, strengthened and made elas- tic by sheets of felt between the planking, covered with water-proof canvass. A runner attached to each side of the keel, adapted them for easy draught on the ice after the manner of a sledge. They were also fit- ted with wheels, to be used if deemed expedient and useful. Two officers and twelve men were attached to each boat, and they were named the Enterprise and Endeavor. The weight of each boat, including pro- visions and every requisite, was about 3780 lbs. L ieuts, Crozier and Foster were left on.board, and Capt. Parry took with him in his boat Mr. Beverley, Surgeon, while Lieut, (now Capt. Sir James) Ross, and Lieut, (now Commander) Bird, had charge of the other. The reindeer and the wheels were given up as use- less, owing to the rough nature of the ice. Provisions for seventy-one days were taken — the daily allowance per man on the journey being 10 ozs. biscuit, 9 ozs. pemmican, 1 oz. sweetened cocoa powder (being enough to make a pint,) and one gill of rum ; but ecanty provision in such a climate, for men employed on severe labor ; three ounces of tobacco were also served out to each per week. As fuel was too bulky to transport, spirits of wine were consumed, which answered all the purposes re- quired, a pint twice a day being found sufiicient to warm each vessel, when applied to an iron boiler by a shallow lamp with seven wicks. After floating the boats for about eighty miles, they came to an unpleas- ant mixed surface of ice and water, where their toilsome journey commenced, the boats having to be laden and 10 146 PEOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEBY, Tinladen several times according as they came to floes of ice or lanes of water, and tliej were drifted to the southward by the ice at the rate of four or five miles a day. Parry found it more advantageous to travel by night, the snow being then harder, and the inconven- ience of snow blindness being avoided, while the party enjoyed greater warmth during the period of rest, and had better opportunities of drying their clothes by the sun. I cannot do better than quote Parry's graphic de- scription of this novel course of proceeding : ^'Travel- ing by night, and sleeping by day, so completely in- verted the natural order of things that it was difficult to persuade ourselves of the reality. Even the officers and myself, who were all furnished with pocket chro- nometers, could not always bear in mind at what part of the twenty-hours we had arrived ; and there were several of the men who declared, and I believe truly, that they never knew night from day during the whole excursion. "When we rose in the evening, we commenced our day by prayers, after w^hich we took off our fur sleep- ing-dresses and put on clothes for traveling ; the former being made of camlet lined with raccoon skin, and the latter of strong blue cloth. We made a point of al- ways putting on the same stockings and boots for traveling in, whether they had been dried during the day or not, and I believe it was only in five or six in- stances at the most that they were not either still wet or hard frozen. This indeed was of no consequence, beyond the discomfort of first putting them on in this state, as they were sure to be thoroughly wet in a quarter of an hour after commencing our journey; while, on the other hand, it was of vital importance to keep dry things for sleeping in. Being ' rigged ' for tra-veling, we breakfasted upon warm cocoa and biscuit, and after stowing the things in the boats, and on the sledges, so as to secure them as much as pos- sible from wet, we set off on our day's journey, and usually traveled four, five, or even six hours, accord- ing to circumstances." 147 In 'B.YQ days, - notwithstanding their perseverance and continued journeys, they found, by observation at noon, on tlie 30th, that they had only made eight miles of direct northing. At. Walden Island, one of the Seven Islands, and Little Table Island, reserve supplies of provision^ were deposited to fall back upon in case of necessity. In halting early in the morning for the purposes of rest, the boats were hauled up on the largest piece of ice that offered the least chance of breaking through, or of coming in contact with other masses, the snow or wet was cleaned out and the sails rigged as awnings. " Every man then immediately put on dry stockings and fur boots, after which we set about the necessary repairs of boats, sledges, or clothes, and after serving the provisions for the succeeding day, we went to sup- per. Most of the officers and men then smoked their pipes, which served to dry the boats and awnings very much, and usually raised the temperature of our lodg- ings 10° or 15°. This part of the twenty-four hours was often a time, and the only one, of real enjoyment to us ; the men told their stories, and fought all their battles o'er again, and the labors of the day, unsuccess- ful as they too often were, were forgotten. A regular watch was set during our resting time, to look out for bears, or for the ice breaking up round us, as well as to attend to the drying of the clothes, each man alter- nately taking this duty for one hour. We then con- cluded our day with prayers, and having put on our fur dresses, lay down to sleep with a degree of comfort which perhaps few persons would imagine possible un- der such circumstances, our chief inconvenience being, that we were somewhat pinched for room, and there- fore obliged to stow rather closer than was quite agree- able.'] This close stowage may be imagined when it is re- membered that thirteen persons had to sleep in a boat seven feet broad. After sleeping about seven hours, they were roused from their slimibers by the sound of a bugle from the cook and watchman, which announced 148 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEEY. that their cocoa was smoking hot, and invited them to breakfast. Their progress was of the most tedious and toilsome character, heavy showers of rain rendering the ice on many occasions a mass of " slush ;" on others there was from six to eighteen inches of snow lying on the sur- face. Frequently the crew had to proceed on their hands and knees to secure a footing, and on one occa- sion they made such a snail-like progress that in two hours they only accomplished 150 yards. On the 12th of July, they had reached the latitude of 82° W 28". After five hours' unceasing labor on the 14th, the pro- gress was but a mile and a half due north, though from three to four miles had been traversed, and ten at least walked, having made three journeys a great part of the way ; launched and hauled up the boats four times, and dragged them over twenty-five separate pieces of ice. On the 18th, after eleven hours of ac- tual labor, requiring for the most part the exertion of the whole strength of the party, they had traveled over a space not exceeding four miles, of which only two were made good. But on halting on the morning of the 20th, having by his reckoning accomplished six and a half miles in a ]N'. N. W. direction, the distance traversed being ten miles and a half. Parry found to his mortification from observation at noon, that they were not Jive miles to the northward of their place at noon on the 17th, although they had certainly traveled twelve miles in that direction since then. On the 21st, a floe of ice on which they had lodged the boats and sledges, broke with their weight, and all went through with several of the crew, who, with the sledges were providentially saved. On the 23d, the farthest northerly point was reached, which was about 82° 45'. At noon on the 26th, the weather being clear, the meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, " by which," says Parry, " we found ourselves in latitude 82° 40' 23'', 60 that since our last observation (at midnight on the paeey's fourth voyage. 14:9 \ »3d,) we had lost by drift no less than thirteen and a half miles, for we were now more than three miles to the southward of that observation, though we had certainly traveled between ten and eleven, due north in this interval ! Again, we were but one mile to the north of our place at noon on the 21st, though we had esti- mated our distance made good at twenty-three miles." After encountering every species of fatigue and dis- heartening obstacles, in peril of their lives almost every hour. Parry now became convinced that it was hope- less to pursue the journey any further, and he could n»jt even reach the eighty-third parallel ; for after thir- ty-five days of continuous and most fatiguing drudgery, With half their resources expended, and the middle of the season arrived, he found that the distance gained in their laborious traveling was lost by the drift and Bei of the ice with the southerly current, during the pmod of rest. After planting their ensigns and pen- nf'.nts on the 26th, and making it a day of rest, on the St^.h, the return to the southward was commenced. Nv 'thing particular occurred. Lieutenant Ross man- aged to bring down with his gun a fat she bear, which ca; ne to have a look at the boats, and after gormandiz- ins' on its flesh, an excess which may be excused consid- €ri ig it was the first ftesh meat they had tasted for ma ly a day, some symptoms of indigestion manifested the nselves among the party. • ( ^n the outward journey very little of animal life wat seen. A passing gull, a solitary rotge, two seals, and a couple of files, were all that their eager eyes cou i detect. But on their return, these became more nun Brous. On the 8th of August, seven or eight nar- wha 8 were seen, and not less than 200 rotges, a fiock of t\ ese little birds occurring in every hole of water. On the 11th, in latitude 81° 30', the sea was found crow led with shrimps and other sea insects, on which numerous birds were feeding. On this day they took their last meal on the ice, being fifty miles distant from Table Island, having accomplished in fifteen days what had taken them thirty-three to effect on their outward 150 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYEEY. journey. On the 12tli, they arrived at this island. The bears had walked off with the relay of bread which had been deposited there. To an inlet lying off Table Island, and the most northern known land npon tlie globe, Parry gave the name of Eoss, for " no individ- ual," he observes, " could have exerted himself more strenuously to rob it of this distinction." Putting to sea again, a storm obliged the boats to bear up for Walden Island. " Every thing belo^igmg to us (says Captain Parry) was now completely drenched by the spray and snow ; we had been fifty-six hours without rest, and forty-eight at work in the boats, so that by the time they were unloaded we had barely strength left to haul them up on the rocks. However, by dint of great exertion, we managed to get the boats above the surf ; after which a hot supper, a blazing fire of drift wood, and a few hours quiet rest, restored us." They finally reached the ship on the 21st of August, after sixty-one days' absence. " The distance traversed during this excursion was 569 geographical miles ; but allowing for the times we had to return for our bao^o-ao-e, durins; the greater part 01 the journey over the ice, we estimated our actual traveling at 978 geographical, or 1127 statute miles. Considering our constant exj)osure to wet, cold, and fatigue, our stockings having generally been drenched in snow-water for twelve hours out of every twenty- four, I had great reason to be thankful for the excellent health in which, upon the whole, we reached the ship. There is little doubt that we had all become in a certain degree gradually weaker for some time past ; but only three men of our party now required medical care — two of them with badly swelled legs and general de b'lity, and the other from a bruise, but even these three returned to their duty in a short time." In a letter from Sir W. E. Parry to Sir John Barrow, dated ITovember 25, 1815, he thus suggests some im- provements on his old plan of proceedings : — " It is evident (he says) that the causes of failure in 151 our former attempt, in the year 1827, were principally two : first, and chiefly, the broken, rugged, and soft , state of the ice over which we traveled ; and secondly, the drifting of the whole body of ice in a southerly direction. " My amended plan is, to go out with a single ship to Spitzbergen, just as we did in the Hecla, but not so early in the season ; the object for that year being merely to find secure winter quarters as far north as possible. For this purpose it would only be necessary to reach Hakluyt's Headland by the end of June, which would afford ample leisure for examining the more northern lands, especially about the Seven Islands, where, in all probability, a secure nook might be found for the ship, and a starting point for the proposed ex- pedition, some forty or fifty miles in advance of the point where the Hecla was before laid up« The winter might be usefully employed in various preparations for the journey, as well as in magnetic, astronomical, and meteorological observations, of high interest in that latitude. I propose that the expedition should leave the ship in the course of the month of April, when the ice would present one hard and unbroken surface, over which, as I confidently believe, it would not be difficult to make good thirty miles per day, without any expo- sure to wet, and probably without snow blindness. At this season, too, the ice would probably be stationary, and thus the two great difficulties which we formerly had to encounter would be entirely obviated. It might form a part of the plan to push out supplies previously, to the distance of 100 miles, to be taken up on the way, so as to commence the journey comparatively light ; and as the intention would be to complete the enterprise in the course of the month of May, before any disruption of the ice, or any material softening of the surface had taken place, similar supplies might be sent out to the same distance, to meet the party on their return." The late Sir John Barrow, in his last work, com- menting on this, says, " With aU deference to so dis- 152 PKOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. tinguished a sea officer, in possession of so mncli expe- rience as Sir Edward Parry, there are others who express dislike of such a plan ; and it is not improba- ble that many will be disposed to come to the conclu- sion, that so long as the Greenland Seas are hampered with ice, so long as floes, and hummocks, and heavy masses, continue to be formed, so long as a determined southerly current prevails, so long will any attempt to carry out the plan in question, in like manner fail. 'No laborious drudgery vdll ever be able to conquer the opposing progress of the current and the ice. Besides, it can hardly be doubted, this gallant officer will admit, on further consideration, that this unusual kind of dis- gusting and unseamanlike labor, is not precisely such as would be relished by the men ; and, it may be said, is not exactly fitted for a British man-of-war's-man ; moreover, that it required his own all-powerful example to make it even tolerable." Sir John therefore sug- gested a somewhat different plan. He recommended that two small ships should be sent in the early spring along the western coast of Spitzbergen, where usually no impediment exists, as far up as 80°. They should take every opportunity of proceeding directly to the north, where, in about 82°, Parry has told us the large floes had disappeared, and the &ea was found to be loaded only with loose, disconnected, small masses of ice, through which ships would find no difficulty in sailing, though totally unfit for boats dragging ; and as this loose ice was drifting to the southward, he further says, that before the middle of August a ship might have sailed up to the latitude of 82°, almost v/ithout touching a piece of ice. It is not then unreasonable to expect that beyond that parallel, even as far as the pole itself, the sea would be free of ice, during the six summer months of perpetual sun, through each of the twenty-four hours ; which, with the aid of the current, would, in all probability, destroy and dissipate the polar ice. The distance from Hakluyt's Headland to the pole is 600 geographical miles. Granting the ships to make 153 only twenty miles in twenty-four hours, (on the suppo- sition of much sailing ice to go through,) even in that case it would require but a month to enable the ex- plorer to put his foot on the pivot or point of the axis on which the globe of the earth turns, remain there a month, if necessary, to obtain the sought-for informa- tion, and then, with a southerly current, a fortnight, probably less, would bring him back to Spitzbergen, ^ In a notice in the Quarterly Review of this, one of the most singular and perilous journeys of its kind ever undertaken, except perhaps that of Baron Wran- gell upon a similar enterprise to the northward of Behr- ing's Straits, it is observed, — "Let any one conceive for a moment the situation of two open boats, laden with seventy days' provisions and clothing for twenty- eight men, in the midst of a sea covered nearly with detached masses and floes of ice, over which these boats were to be dragged, sometimes up one side of a rugged mass, and down the other, sometimes across the lanes of water that separate them, frequently over a surface covered with deep snow, or through pools of water. Let him bear in mind, that the men had little or no chance of any other supply of provisions than that which they carried with them, calculated as just sufficient to sustain life, and consider what their situa- tion would have been in the event, by no means an improbable one, of losing any part of their scanty stock. Let any one try to imagine to himself a situa- tion of this kind, and he will still have but a faint idea of the exertions which the men under Captain Parry had to make, and the sufferings and privations they had to undergo." Captain Parry having thus completed his fifth voy- age into the arctic regions, in four of which he com- manded, and was second in the other, it may here be desirable to give a recapitulation of his services. Li 1818 he was appointed Lieutenant, commanding the Alexander, hired ship, as second officer with his uncle. Commander John Ross. In 1819, still as Lieu- * Barrow's Voyages of Discoveiy, p. 316. 154 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. tenant, he was appointed to command the Hecla, and to take charge of the second arctic expedition, on which service he was employed two years. On the 14:th of November, 1820, he was promoted to the rank of Commander. On the 19th of December, 1820, the Bedfordean Gold Medal of the Bath and West of England Society for the Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, was unanimously voted to him. On the 30th of December of that year, he was appointed to the Fury, with oirders to take command of the expedi- tion to the Arctic Sea. "With the sum of 500 guineas, subscribed for the purpose, " the Explorer of the Polar Sea " was afterward presented with a silver vase, highly embellished with devices emblematic of the arctic voyages. And on the 24:th of March, 1821, the city of Bath presented its freedom to Captain Parry, in a box of oak, highly and appropriately ornamented. On the 8th of November, 1821, he obtained his post- captain's rank. On the 22d of November, 1823, he was presented with the freedom of the city of Win- chester ; and, on the 1st of December, was appointed acting hydrographer to the Admiralty in the place of Captain Hind, deceased. In 1824 he was appointed to the Hecla, to proceed on another exploring voyage. On the 22d of November, 1825, Captain Parry was formally appointed hydrographer to the Admiralty, which office he continued to hold until the 10th of November, 1826. In December, 1825, he was voted the freedom of the borough of Lynn, in testimony of the high sense enter- tained by the corporation of his meritorious and enter prising conduct. In April, 1827, he once more took the command of his old ship, the Hecla, for another voyage of discovery toward the North Pole. On his return in the close of the year, having paid off the Hecla at Deptford, ha resumed, on the 2d of November, his duties as hydro- grapher to the Admiralty, which office he held until the 13th of May, 1829. Having received the l:vaAor of C ATTAIN boss's SECOND VOYAGE. 155 kniglithoocl, he then resigned in favor of the present Admiral Beaufort, and, obtaining permission from the Admiralty, proceeded to 'New South "Wales as resident Commissioner to the Australian Agricultural Com pany, taking charge of their recently acquired large territory in the neighborhood of Port. Stephen. He returned from Australia in 1834. From the 7th of March, 1835, to the 3d of February, 1836, he acted as Poor Law Commissioner in J^orfolk. Early in 1837, he was appointed to organize the Mail Packet Service, then transferred to the Admiralty, and afterward, in April, was appointed Controller of steam machinery to the ISTavy, which office he continued to hold up to De- cember, 1846. From that period to the present time he has filled the post of Captain Superintendent of the Royal ]Sr avy Hospital at Haslar. Captain- John Eoss's Second Yoyage, 1829-33. In the year 1829, Capt. Koss, the pioneer of arctic exploration in the 19th century, being anxious once more to display his zeal and enterprise as well as to retrieve his nautical reputation from those unfortunate blunders and mistakes which had attached to his first voyage, and thus remove the cloud which had for nearly ten years hung over his professional character, endeavored without effect to induce the government to send him out to the Polar Seas in charge of another expedition. The Board of Admiralty of that day, in the spirit of retrenchment which pervaded their coun- cils, were, however, not disposed to recommend any further grant for research, even the Board of Longi- tude was abolished, and the boon of 20,000^. offered by act of parliament for the promotion of arctic dis- covery, also withdrawn by a repeal of the act. Captain Boss, however, undaunted by the chilling indifference thus manifested toward his proposals by the Admiralty, still persevered, having devoted 3000^. out of his own funds toward the prosecution of the ob- ject he had in view. He was fortunate enough to 156 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERY. meet with a public-spirited and affluent coadjutoi And supporter in the late Sir Felix Booth, the eminen / dis- tiller, and that gentleman nobly contributed IT^OOOZ. toward the expenses. Captain Koss thereupon set to work, and purchased a small Liverpool steamer named the Yictorj, whose tonnage he increased to 150 tons. She was provisioned for three years. Captain Eoss chose for his second in command his nephew, Com- mander James Ross, who had been with him on his first arctic expedition, and had subsequently accompa- nied Parry in all his voyages. The other officers of the vessel were — Mr. William Thom, purser ; Mr. George M'Diarmid, surgeon ; Thomas Blanky,Thos. Abernethy, and George Taylor, as 1st, 2d, and 3d, mates ; Alex- ander Brunton and Allen Macinnes as 1st and 2d engi- neers ; and nineteen petty officers and seamen ; making a complement in all of 28 men. The Admiralty furnished toward the purposes of the expedition a decked boat of sixteen tons, called the Krusenstern, and two boats which had been used by Franklin, with a stock of books and instruments. The vessel being reported ready for sea was visited and examined by the late EJing of the French, the Lords of the Admiralty, and other parties taking an interest in the expedition, and set sail from Woolwich on the 23d of May, 1829. For all practical purposes the steam machinery, on which the commander had greatly relied, was found on trial utterly useless. Having received much damage to her spars, in a severe gale, the ship put in to the Danish settlement of Holsteinberg, on the Greenland coast, to refit, and sailed again to the northward on the 26th of June. They found a clear sea, and even in the middle of Lan- caster Sound and Barrow's Strait perceived no traces of ice or snow, except what appeared on the lofty sum- mits of some of the mountains. The thermometer stood at 40°, and the weather was so mild that the officers dined in the cabin without a fire, with the skylight partially open. On the 10th of August they passed Cape York, and thence crossed over into Eegent Lilr \ OAPTAm KOSSS SECOOTJ VOYAGE. 157 making the western coast between Sepping's and Elwin Bay on the 16th. They here fell in with those formidable streams, packs, and floating bergs of ice which had offered such obstructions to Parry's ships. From their proximity to the magnetic pole, their compasses became useless as they proceeded southward. On the 13th they reached the spot where the Fury was abandoned, but no rem-- nants of the vessel were to be seen. All her sails, stores, and provisions, on land, were, however, found ; the hermetically-sealed tin canisters having kept the provisions from the attacks of bears ; and the flour, bread, wine, spirits, sugar, &c., proved as good, after being here four years, as on the first day they were packed. This store formed a very seasonable addition, which was freely made available, and after increasing their stock to two years and ten months' supply, they Btill left a large quantity for the wants of any future explorers. On the 15th, crossing Cress well Bay, they reached Cape Garry, the farthest point which had been Been by Parry. They were here much inconvenienced and delayed by fogs and floating ice. "While moun- tains of ice were tossing around them on every side, they were often forced to seek safety by mooring them- selves to these formidable masses, and drifting with them, sometimes forward, sometimes backward. In this manner on one occasion no less than nineteen miles were lost in a few hours ; at other times they under- went frequent and severe shocks, yet escaped any seri- ous damage. Captain Ross draws a lively picture of what a ves- sel endures in sailing among these moving hills. He reminds the reader that ice is stone, as solid as if it were granite ; and he bids him " imagine these moun- tains hurled through a narrow strait by a rapid tide, meeting with the noise of thunder, breaking from each other's precipices huge fragments, or rending each other asunder, till, losing their former equilibrium, they fell over headlong, lifting the sea around in break- ers and whirling it in eddies. There is not a moment 158 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. in which it can be conjectured what will happen in ilit next ; there is not one which may n«>t be the last. Th;» attention is troubled to fix on any thing amid such con fusion ; still must it be alive, that it may seize on the single moment of help or escape which may occur. Yet with all this, and it is the hardest task of all, there is nothing to be acted, — no effort to be made, — he •must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless, waiting, as he best can, for the fate, be it what it may, which he cannot influence or avoid." Proceeding southward, Eoss found Brentford Bay, about thirty miles beyond Cape Garry, to be of consid- erable extent, with some fine harbors. Landing here, the British colors were unfurled, and the coast, named after the promoter of the expedition, was taken posses- sion of in the name of the King. Extensive and com- modious harbors, named Ports Logan, Elizabeth, and Eclipse, were discovered, and a large bay, which wa9 called Mary Jones Bay. By the end of September, the ship had examined 300 miles of undiscovered coast. The winter now set in with severity, huge masses of ice began to close around them, the thermometer sank many degrees below freezing point, and snow fell very thick. By sawing through the ice, the vessel was got into a secure position to pass the winter, in a station which is now named on the maps Felix Harbor. The machinery of the steam engine was done away with, the vessel housed, and every measure that could add to the comfort of the crew adopted. They had abundance of fuel, and provisions that might easily be extended to three years. On the 9th of January, 1831, they were visited by a large tribe of Esquimaux, who were better dressed and cleaner than those more to the northward. They dis- played an intimate acquaintance with the situation and bearings of the country over which they had traveled, and two of them drew a very fair sketch of the neigh- boring coasts, with which they were familiar ; this was revised and corrected by a learned lady named Teriksin, — the females seeming, from this and former 159 instances, to have a clear knowledge of the hydrography and geography of the continent, bays, straits, and riv- ers which they had once traversed. On the 5th of April, Commander Ross, with Mr. Blanky, the chief mate, and two Esquimaux guides, set out to explore a strait which was reported as lying to the westward, and which it was hoped might lead to the western sea. After a tedious and arduous journey, they arrived, on the third day, at a bay facing to the westward and discovered, further inland, an extensive lake, called by the natives ]^ie-tyle-le, whence a broad river flowed into the bay. Their guides informed them, however, there was no prospect of a water comunica- tion south of their present position. Capt. Eoss then traced the coast fifty or sixty miles further south. Several journeys were also made by Commander Ross, both inland and along the bays and inlets. On the 1st of May, from the top of a high hill, he observed a large inlet, which seemed to lead to the western sea. In order to satisfy himself on this point, he set out again on the ITth of May, with provisions for three weeks, eight dogs, and three companions. Having crossed the great middle lake of the isthmus, he reached his former station, and thence traced an inlet which was found to be the mouth of a river named by them Garry. From the high hill, they observed a chain of lakes leading almost to Thom's Bay, the Victory's sta- tion in Felix Harbor. Proceeding northwest along the coast, they crossed the frozen surface of the strait which has since been named after Sir James Ross, and came to a large island which was called Matty ; keeping along its northern shore, and passing over a narrow strait, which they named after Wellington, they found themselves on what was considered to be the main- land, but which the more recent discoveries of Simpson have shown to be an island, and which now bears the name of King William's Land. Still journeying on- ward, v/ith difficulties continually increasing, from heavy toil and severe privation, the dogs became ex- hausted with fatigue, and a burden rather than an aid to the travelers. 160 PKOGRESS OF AEOTIO DISCOVERY. One of their greatest embarrassments was, how to distinguish between land and sea. " When all is ice, and all one dazzling mass of white — when the surface of the sea itself is tossed up and fixed into rocks, while the land is, on the contrary, very often flat, it is not always so easy a problem as it might seem on a super- ficial view, to determine a fact which appears in words to be extremely simple." Although their provisions began to fall short, and the party were nearly worn out. Commander Ross was most desirous of making as much western discovery as possible ; therefore, depos- iting every thing that could be dispensed with, he pushed on, on the 28th, with only four days' provisions, and reached Cape Felix, the most northern point of this island, on the following day. The coast here took a southwest direction, and there was an unbounded ex- panse of ocean in view. The next morning, after hav- ing traveled twenty miles farther, they reached a point, which Ross called Point Victory, situated in lat. 64^ 4:6' 19'', long. 98° 32' 49", while to the most distant one in view, estimated to be in long. 99° 17' 68", he gave the name of Cape Franklin. However loath to turn back, yet prudence compelled them to do so, for as they had only ten days' short allowance of food, and more than 200 miles to traverse, there could not be a moment's hesitation in adopting this step. A high cairn of stones was erected before leaving, in which was deposited a narrative of their proceedings. The party endured much fatigue and suffering on their return journey ; of the eight dogs only two sur- vived, and the travelers in a most exhausted state ar- rived in the neighborhood of the large lakes on the 8th of June, where they fortunately fell in with a tribe of natives, who received them hospitably, and supplied them plentifully with fish, so that after a day's rest they resumed their journey, and reached the ship on the 13th. Captain Ross in the meanwhile had made a partial survey of the Isthmus, and discovered another large lake, which he named after Lady Melville. After eleven months' imprisonment their little ship 161 once more jBLoated hnojant on the waves, having been released from her icy barrier on the ITth of September, but for the next few days made but little progress, being beaten about among the icebergs, and driven hither and thither by the currents. A chan^<3 in the weather, however, took place, and on the 23a they were once more frozen in, the sea in a week after exhibiting one clear and unbroken surface. All October was passed in cutting through the ice into a more secure locality, and another dreary winter hav- ing set in, it became necessary to reduce the allowance of provisions. This winter was one of unparalleted eeverity, tie thermometer falling 92° below freezing point. During the ensuing spring a variety of explo- ratory journeys were carried on, and in one of these Commander Ross succeeded in planting the British flag on the J^orth Magnetic Pole. The position which had been usually assigned to this interesting spot by the learned of Europe, was lat. 70° IST., and long. 98° 80' W. ; but Eoss, by careful observations, determined it to lie in lat. Y0° 5' IV' 'N., and long. 96° 46' 45" W., to the southward of Cape E'ikolai, on the western shore of Boothia. But it has since been found that the cen- ter of magnetic intensity is a movable point revolving within the frigid zone. " The place of the observatory," Ross remarks, " was as near to the magnetic pole as the limited means which I possessed enabled me to determine. The amount of the dip, as indicated by my dipping-needle, was 89° 59', being thus within one minute of the vertical ; while the proximity at least of this pole, if not its ac- tual existence where we stood, was further confirmed by the action, or rather by the total inaction, of the several horizontal needles then in my possession." Parry's observations placed it eleven minutes distant only from the site determined by Ross. "As soon," continues Ross, "as I had satisfied my own mind on the subject, I made known to the party this gratifying result of all our joint labors ; and it was then that, amidst mutual congratulations, we fixed the 11 162 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. Britisli flag on the spot, and took possession of the ITorth Magnetic Pole and its adjoining territory in the name of Great Britain and King William IV. We had abundance of materials for bnilding in the frag- ments of limestone that covered the beach, and we therefore erected a cairn of some magnitude, imder which we buried a canister containing a record of the interesting fact, only regretting that we had not tlie means of constructing a pyramid of more importance, and of strength sufficient to withstand the assaults of time and of the Esquimaux. Had it been a pyramid as large as that of Cheops, I am not quite sure that it would have done more than satisfy our ambition under the feelings of that exciting day." On the 28th of August, 1831, they contrived to warp the Victory out into the open sea, and made sail ou the following morning, but were soon beset with ice, as on the former occasion, being once more completely frozen in by the 2Tth of September. On the previous occasion their navigation had been three miles ; this year it extended to four. This pro- tracted detention in the ice made their present posi- tion one of great danger and peril. As there seemed no prospect of extracting their vessel, the resohition was come to of abandoning her, and making the best of their way up the inlet to Fury Beach, there to avail themselves of the boats, provisions, and stores, which would assist them in reaching Davis' Straits, where they might expect to fall in with one of the whale ships. On the 23d of April, 1832, having collected all that was useful and necessary, the expedition set out, drag- ging their provisions and boats over a vast expanse of rugged ice. " The loads being too heavy to be car- ried at once, made it necessary to go backward and forward twice, and even oftener, the same day. They had to encounter dreadful tempests of snow and drift, and to make several circuits in order to avoid impas- sable barriers. The general result was, that by the 12th of May they had traveled 329 miles to gain thirty 163 in a direct line, having in this labor expended a month." After this preliminary movement, they bade a farewell to their little vessel, nailing her colors to the mast. Capt. Ross describes himself as deeply af- fected ; this being the first vessel he had been obliged to abandon of thirty-six in which he had served dur- ing the conrse of forty-two years. On the 9th of June, Commander Ross and two others, with a fortnight's provisions, left the main body, who were more heav- ily loaded, to ascertain the state of the boats and sup- plies at Fury Beach. Returning they met their com- rades on the 25th of June, reporting that they had found three of the boats washed away, but enough still left for their purpose, and all the provisions were in good condition. The remainder of the journey was accomplished by the whole party in a w^eek', and on the 1st of July they reared a canvas mansion, to which they gave the name of Somerset House, and enjoyed a hearty meal. Bj the 1st of August the boats were rendered ser- viceable, and a considerable extent of open sea being visible, they set out, and after much buffeting among the ice in their frail shallops, reached the mouth of the inlet by the end of August. After several fruit- less attempts to run along Barrow's Strait, the obstruc- tions of the ice obliged them to haul the boats on shore, and pitch their tents. Barrow's Strait was found, from repeated surveys, to be one impenetrable mass of ice. After lingering here till the third week in September, it was nnanimously agreed that their only resource was to fall back on the stores at Fury Beach, and there spend their fourth winter. They were only able to get half the distance in the boats, which were hauled on shore in Batty Bay on the 24:th of September, and the rest of their journey continued on foot, the pro- visions being dragged on sledges. On the Yth of Oc- tober they once more reached their home at the scene of the wreck. They now managed to shelter their canvas tent by a wall of snow, and setting up an ex- tra stove, made themselves tolerably comfortable until 164 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. the increasing severity of the winter, and rigor of the cold, added to the tempestuous weather, made them perfect prisoners, and sorely tried their patience. Scurvy now began to attack several of the party, and on the 16th of February, 1833, Thomas, the carpenter, fell a victim to it, and two others died. " Their situ- ation was becoming truly awful, since, if they were not liberated in the ensuing summer, little prospect appeared of their surviving another year. It was necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of preserved meats; bread was somewhat deficient, and the stock of wine and spirits was entirely exhausted. However, as they caught a few foxes, which were con- sidered a delicacy, and there was plenty of flour, sagar, soups, and vegetables, a diet could be easily arranged sufficient to support the party." While the ice remained lirm, advantage was taken of the spring to carry forward a stock of provisions to Batty Bay, and this, though only thirty-two miles, oc- cupied them a whole month, owing to their reduced numbers from sickness and heavy loads, with the jour- neyings to and fro, having to go over the ground eight times. On the 8th of July they finally abandoned this de- ot, and encamped on the 12th at their boat station in atty Bay, where the aspect of the sea was watched with intense anxiety for more than a month. On the 15th of August, taking advantage of a lane of water which led to the northward, the party embarked, and on the following morning had got as far as the turn- ing point of their last year's expedition. Making their way slowly among the masses of ice with which the inlet was encumbered, on the ITth they found the wide expanse of Barrow's Strait open before them, and nav- igable, and reached to within twelve miles of Cape York. Pushing on with renewed spirits, alternately rowing and sailing, on the night of the 25th they rested in a good harbor on the eastern shore of ITavy Board Inlet. At four on the following morning they were roused from their slumbers by the joyful intelli- g 165 gence of a ship being in sight, and never did men more hurriedly and energetically set out ; but tlie ele- ments conspiring against tliem, after being baffled by calms and currents, they had the misery to see the ship leave them with a fair breeze, and found it im- possible to overtake her, or make themselves seen. A few hours later, however, their despair was relieved by the sight of another vessel which was lying to in a calm. By dint of hard rowing they were this time more for tunate,.and soon came up with her; she proved to be the Isabella, of Hull, the very ship in which Koss.had made his first voyage to these seas. Capt. Ross was told circumstantially of his own death, &c., two years previously, and he had some difficulty in convincing them that it was really he and his party who now stood before them. So great was the joy with which they were received, that the Isabella manned her yards, and her former commander and his gallant band of adventurers were saluted with three hearty cheers. The scene on board can scarcely be described ; each of the crew vied with the other in assisting and com- forting the party, and it cannot better be told than in Ross's own words : — " The ludicrous soon took place of all other feelings ; in such a crowd, and such confusion, all serious thought was impossible, while the new buoyancy of our spirits made us abundantly willing to be amused by the scene which now opened. Every man was hungry, and was to be fed ; aE. were ragged, and were to be clothed ; there was not one to whom washing was not indispen- sable, nor one whom his beard did not deprive of all human semblance. All, every thing too, was to be done at once : it was washing, shaving, dressing, eating, all intermingled ; it was all the materials of each jumbled together, while in the midst of all there were intermina- ble questions to be asked and answered on both sides ; the adventures of the Yictory, our own escapes, the politics of England, and the news which was now four years old. " But aE subsided into peace at last. The sick were 166 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. accommodated, the seamen disposed of, and all was done for us which care and kindness conld perform. "Night at length brought quiet and serions thoughts, and I trust there was not a man among us who did not then express, where it was due, his gratitude for that interposition which had raised us all from a despair which none could now forget, and had brought us from the very borders of a most distant grave, to life and friends and civilization. Long accustomed, however, to a cold bed on the hard snow or the bare rock, few could sleep amid the comfort of our new accommoda- tions. I was myself compelled to leave the bed which had been kindly assigned me, and take my abode in a chair for the night, nor did it fare much better with the rest. It was for time to reconcile us to this sudden and violent change, to break through what had become habit, and inure us once more to the usages of our former days." The Isabella remained some time longer to prosecute the fishery, and left Davis' Strait on her homeward passage on the 30th September. On the 12th of Oc- tober they made the Orkney Islands, and arrived at Hull on the 18th. The bold explorers, who had loug been given up as lost, were looked upon as men risen from the grave, and met and escorted by crowds of sympathizers. A public entertainment was given to them by the townspeople, at which the freedom of the town was presented to Captain Koss, and next day he left for London, to report to the Admiralty, and was honored by a presentation to the king at Windsor. The Admiralty liberally rewarded all the parties, except indeed Captain Ross. Commander J. C. Ross was appointed to the guardship at Portsmouth to com- plete his period of service, and then received his post rank. Mr. Thom, the purser, Mr. M'Diarmid, the sur- geon, and the petty officers, were appointed to good situations in the navy. The seamen received the usual double pay given to arctic explorers, up to the time of leaving their ship, and full pay from that date until their arrival in England. 167 A committee of the House of Commons took up the case of Captain Ross early in the session of 1834, and on their recommendation 5,000?. was granted him as a remuneration for his pecuniary outlay and privations. A baronetcy, on the recommendation of the same committee, was also conferred by his Majesty William TV. on Mr. Felix Booth. In looking back on the results of this voyage, no im- partial inquirer can deny to Captain Ross the merit of having effected much good by tracing and surveying the whole of the long western coast of Regent Inlet, proving Boothia to be a peninsula, and setting at rest the probability of any navigable outlet being discovered from this inlet to the Polar Sea. The lakes, rivers and islands which were examined, proved with sufficient accuracy the correctness of the information furnished to Parry by the Esquimaux. To Commander James Ross is due the credit of resolving many important scientific questions, such as the combination of light with magnetism, fixing the exact position of the magnetic pole. He was also the only person in the expedition competent to make obser- vations in geology, natural history and botany. Out of about TOO miles of new land explored. Commander Ross, in the expeditions which he planned and con- ducted, discovered nearly 600. He had, up to this time, passed fourteen summers and eight winters in these seas. The late Sir John Barrow, in his " ITarrative of Voy- ages of Discovery and Research,^' p. 518, in opposition fco Ross's opinion, asserted that Boothia was not joined to the continent, but that they were " completely divi- ded by a navigable strait, ten miles wide and upward, leading past Back's Estuary, and into the Gulf (of Boothia,) of which the proper name is Akkolee, not Boothia ; and moreover, that the two seas flow as freely into each other as Lancaster Sound does into the Polar Sea." This assumption has since been shown to be incorrect. Capt. Ross asserts there is a difference in the level of these two seas. ioS PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. I may here fitly take a review of Captain Iv»,4s's ser- vices. He entered the navy in 1790, served fifteen years as a midshipman, seven as a lieutenant, and seven as a commander, and was posted on the Tth of December, 1818, and appointed to the command of the first arctic expedition of this century. On his return he received many marks of favor from continental sovereigns, wag knighted and made a Companion of the Bath on the 24:th of December, 1834 ; made a Commander of the Sword of Sweden, a Knight of the Second Class of St Anne of Prussia (in diamonds,) Second Class of the Legion of Honor, and of the Red Eagle of Prussia, and of Leopold of Belgium. Received the royal premiun ft'om the Geographical Society of London, in 1833, fo' his discoveries in the arctic res^ions ; also ffold medal fe^'^ti ' from the Geographical Society of Paris, and the RoyM Societies of Sweden, Austria, and Denmark. The fre<>- dom of the cities of London, Liverpool, and Bristo) *, six gold snufi'-boxes from Russia, Holland, Denmark Austria, London and Baden; a sword valued at lOO guineas from the Patriotic Fund, for his sufierings, hav ing been wounded thirteen times in three different actions during the war ; and one of the value of 2001, from the King of Sweden, for service in the Baltic and the White Sea. On the 8th of March, 1839, he waa appointed to the lucrative post of British consul ai Stockholm, which he held for six years. Captain Back's Land Joueney, 1833-35. FouE years having elapsed without any tidings bein^ received of Capt Ross and his crew, it began to be generally feared in England that they had been added to the number of former sufferers, in the prosecution of their arduous undertaking. Dr. Richardson, who had himself undergone such frightful perils in the arctic regions with Franklin, was the first to call public attention to the subject, in a letter to the Geographical Society, in which he suggested a project for relieving them^ if still alive and to be fo>ind ; 169 and dt the same time Yolunteered his services to the Colonial Secretary of the day, to conduct an exploring party. Although the expedition of Capt. Ross was not under- taken under the auspices of government, it became a national concern to ascertain the ultimate fate of it, and to make some effort for the relief of the party, whose home at that time might be the boisterous sea, or whose shelter the snow hut or the floating iceberg. Dr. Rich- ardson proposed to proceed from Hudson's Bay, in a northwest direction to Coronation Gulf, where he was to commence his search in an easterly direction. Pass- ing to the north, along the eastern side of this gulf, he would arrive at Point Turnagain, the eastern point of his own former discovery. Having accomplished this, he would continue his search toward the eastward until he reached Melville Island, thus perfecting geographical discovery in that quarter, and a continued coast line might be laid down from the Fury and Hecla Strait to Beechey Point, leaving only the small space between Franklin's discovery and that of the Blossom unexplored. The proposal was favorably received ; but owing to the political state of the country at the time, the offer was not accepted. A meeting was held in ISTovember, 1832, at the rooms of the Horticultural Society, in Regent street, to obtain funds, and arrange for fitting out a private relief expe- dition, as the Admiralty and Government were unable to do this officially, in consequence of Captain Ross's expedition not being a public one. Sir George Cock- burn took the chair, and justly observed that those offi- cers who devoted their time to the service of science, and braved in its pursuit the dangers of unknown and ungenial climates, demanded the sympathy and assist- ance of all. Great Britain had taken the lead in geo- graphical discovery, and there was not one in this coun- try who did not feel pride and honor in the fame she had attained by the expeditions of Parry and Franklin ; but if we wished to create future Parrys and Franklins, if we wished to encourage British enterprise and com ITO PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. age, we must prove that the officer who is out of sight of his countrymen is not forgotten ; that there is con- sideration for his sufferings, and appreciation of his spirit. This reflection will cheer him in the hour of trial, and will permit him, when surrounded by dangers and privations, to indulge in hope, the greatest blessing of man. Captain George Back, R. N., who was in Italy when the subject was first mooted, hastened to England, and offered to lead the party, and his services were accepted. A subscription was entered into, to defray the necessary expenses, and upward of 6000?. was raised ; of this sum, at the recommendation of Lord Goderich, the then Secretary of State, the Treasury con- tributed 2000Z. After an interview with the king at Brighton, to which he was specially summoned. Captain Back made prepa- rations for his journey, and laid down his plan of opera- tions. In order to facilitate his views, and give him greater authority over his men, special instructions and authority were issued by the Colonial Ofiice, and the Hudson's Bay Company granted him a commission in their service, and placed every assistance at his disposal throughout their territory in ]^orth America. Every thing being definitely arranged, Capt. Back, accompanied by Dr. ilichard King as surgeon and natu- ralist, with three men who had been on the expedition with Franklin, left Liverpool on the lYth of February, 1833, in one of the ISTew York packet ships, and arrived in America after a stormy passage of thirty-five days. He proceeded on to Montreal, where he had great diffi- culty in preventing two of the men from leaving him, as their hearts began to fail them at the prospect of the severe journey with its attendant difficulties, which they had to encounter. Four volunteers from the Royal Artillery corps here joined him, and some voyageurs having been engaged, the party left, in two canoes, on the 25th of April. Two of his party deserted from him in the Ottawa river. On the 28th of June, having obtained his comple- ment of men, he may be said to have commenced his 171 journey. They suffered dreadfully from myriads of sand-flies and xnusquitoes, being so disfigured by their attacks that their features could scarcely be recognized. Horse-flies, appropriately styled " bull-dogs," were an- other dreadful pest, which pertinaciously gorged them- selves, like the leech, until they seemed ready to burst. " It is in vain to attempt to defend yourself against these puny bloodsuckers ; though you crush thousands of them, tens of thousands arise to avenge the death of their companions, and you very soon discover that the conflict which you are waging is one in which you are sure to be defeated. So great at last are the pains and fatigue in buffeting away this attacking force, that in despair you throw yourself, half suffocated, in a blanket, with your face upon the ground, and snatch a few min- utes of sleepless rest." Capt. Back adds that the vig- orous and unintermitting assaults of these tormenting pests conveyed the moral lesson of man's helplessness, since, with all our boasted strength, we are unable to repel these feeble atoms of creation. " How," he says, " can I possibly give an idea of the torment we endured from the sand-flies ? As we divided into the confined and suffocating chasms, or waded through the close swamps, they rose in clouds, actually darkening the air ; to see or to speak was equally difficult, for they rushed at every undefended part, and fixed their poisonous fangs in an instant. Our faces streamed with blood, as if leeches had been applied, and there was a burning and irritating pain, followed by immediate inflamma- tion, and producing giddiness, which almost drove U3 mad, and caused us to moan with pain and agony. At the Pine portage, Captain Back engaged the services of A. R. McLeod, in the employ of the Hud- son's Bay Company, and who had been fixed upon by Governor Simpson, to aid the expedition. He was accompanied by his wife, three children, and a ser- vant ; and had just returned from the Mackenzie River, with a large cargo of furs. The whole family were at- tached to the party, and after some detentions of a general and unimportant character they arrived at 8 172 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. Fort Chipewjan on the 20tli of July. Fort Eesoia tion, on Great Slave Lake, was reached on the 8th of August. The odd assemblage of goods and vojageurs in their encampment are thus graphically described by the traveler, as he glanced around him. "At my feet was a rolled bundle in oil-cloth, con- taining some three blankets, called a bed ; near it a piece of dried buffalo, fancifully ornamented with long black hairs, which no art, alas, can prevent from insin- uating themselves between the teeth, as you laboriously masticate the tough, hard flesh; then a tolerably clean napkin, spread by way of table-cloth, on a red piece of canvas, and supporting a tea-pot, some biscuits, and a salt-cellar ; near this a tin plate, close by a square kind of box or safe of the same material, rich with a pale, greasy hair, the produce of the colony at Red River ; and the last, the far-renowned ^6mm^ca7^, unquestion- ably the best food of the country for expeditions such as ours. Behind me were two boxes containing astro- nomical instruments, and a sextant lying on the ground, while the different corners of the tent were occupied by a washing apparatus, a gun, an Indian shot-pouch, bags, basins, and an unhappy-looking japanned pot, whose melancholy bumps and holloAVS seemed to re- proach me for many a bruise endured upon the rocks and portages between Montreal and Lake Winnipeck. Nor were my crew less motley than the furniture of the tent. It consisted of an Englishman, a man from Storna,way, two Canadians, two Metifs or half-breeds, and three Iroquois Indians. Babel could not have pro- duced a worse confusion of unharmonious sounds than was the conversation they kept up." Having obtained at Fort Resolution all possible in- formation, from the Indians and others, relative to the course of the northern rivers of which he was in search, he divided his crew into two parties, five of whom were left as an escort for Mr. McLeod, and four were to ac- company himself in search of the Great Fish River, since appropriately named after Back himself. 173 On the 19th of August they began the ascent of the Hoar Frost River, whose course was a series of the most fearful cascades and rapids. The woods here were so thick as to render them almost impervious consisting chiefly of stunted firs, which occasioned in finite trouble to the party to force their way through added to which, they had to clamber over fallen trees through rivulets, and over bogs and swamps, until the difficulties appeared so appalling, as almost to dis- hearten the party from prosecuting their journey. The heart of Captain Back was, however, of too stern a cast to be dispirited by difficulties, at which less persever mg explorers would have turned away discomfited, and cheering on his men, like a bold and gallant leader, the first in the advance of danger, they arrived at length in an open space, where they rested for awhile to recruit their exhausted strength. The place was, indeed, one of barrenness and desolation ; crag was piled upon crag to the height of 2000 feet from the base, and the course of the river here, in a state of contraction, was marked by an uninterrupted line of foam. However great the beauty of the scenery may be, and however resolute may be the will, severe toil will at length relax the spirits, and bring a kind of despon- dency upon a heart naturally bold and undaunted. This was found particularly the case now with the interpre- ter, who became a dead weight upon the party. Rapid now succeeded rapid ; scarcely had they surmounted one fall than another presented itself, rising like an am- phitheater before them to the height of fifty feet. They, however, gained at length the ascent of this turbulent and imfriendly river, the romantic beauty and wild scenery of which were strikingly grand, and after pass- ing successively a series of portages, rapids, falls, lakes, and rivers, on the 2Tth Back observed from the summit of a high hill a very large lake full of deep bays and islands, and which has been named Aylmer Lake, after the Governor-General of Canada at that time. The boat ¥7as sent out with three men to search for the lake, or outlet of the river, which they discovered on the sec- 1 J4: PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. ond day, and Captain Back himself, during their ab- sence, also accidentally discovered its source in the Sand Hill Lake, not far from his encampment. 'Not prouder was Bruce when he stood on the green sod which covers the source of the Nile, than was Captain Back when he found that he was standing at the source of a river, the existence of which was known, but the course of which was a problem, no traveler had yet ven- tured to solve. Yielding to that pleasurable emotion which discoverers, in the first bound of their transport, may be pardoned for indulging. Back tells us he threw himself down on the bank and drank a hearty draughu of the limpid water. "For this occasion," he adds, "I had reserved a lit- tle grog, and need hardly say with what cheerfulness it was shared among the crew, whose welcome tidings had verified the notion of Dr. E-ichardson and myself, and thus placed beyond doubt the existence of the Thlew-ee-choh, or Great Fish Eiver. On the 30th of August, they began to move toward the river, but on reaching Musk-ox Lake, it was found impossible to stand the force of the rapids in their frail canoe, and as winter was approaching, their return to the rendezvous on Slave Lake was determined on. At Clinton Colden Lake, some Indians visited them from the Chief Akaitcho, who, it will be remembered, was the guide of Sir John Franklin. Two of these In- dians remembered Captain Back, one having accom- panied him to the Coppermine River, on Franklin's first expedition. At the Cat or Artillery Lake, they had to aband on their canoe, and perform the rest of the journey on foot over precipitous rocks, through frightful gorges and ra- vines, heaped with masses of granite, and along narrow ledges, where a false step would have been fatal. At Fort Reliance, the party found Mr. McLeod had, during their absence, erected the frame-work of a com- fortable residence for them, and all hands set to work to complete it. After many obstacles and difiiculties, it was finished. w: Dr. King joined them on the 16tli of September, with two laden bateaux. On the 5th of ]^ovember, they exchanged their cold tents for the new house, which was fifty feet long by thirty broad, and contained four rooms, besides a spa- cious hall in the center, for the reception and accom- modation of the Indians, to which a sort of rude kitchen was attached. As the winter advanced, bands of starving Indians continued to arrive, in the hope of obtaining some re- lief, as little or nothing was to be procured by hunting. They would stand around while the men were taking their meals, watching every mouthful with the most longing, imploring look, but yet never uttered a com- plaint. At other times they would, seated round the fire, oc- cupy themselves in roasting and devouring small bits of their reindeer garments, which, even when entire, afforded them a very insufficient protection against a temperature of 102° below freezing point. The sufferings of the poor Indians at this period are described as frightful. " Famine with her gaunt and bony arm," says Back, " pursued them at every turn, withered their energies, and strewed them lifeless on the cold bosom of the snow." It was impossible to afford relief out of their scanty store to all, but even small portions of the mouldy peminican intended for the dogs, unpalatable as it was, was gladly received, and saved many from perishing. " Often," adds Back, " did I share my own plate with the children whose helpless state and piteous cries were peculiarly distress- ing ; com23assion for the full-grown may, or may not, be felt, but that heart must be cased in steel which is insensible to the cry of a child for food." At this critical juncture, Akaitcho made his appear- ance with an opportune supply of a little meat, which in some measure enabled Captain Back to relieve the sufferers around him, many of whom, to his great de- light, went away with Akaitcho. The stock of meat was soon exhausted, and they had to open their pern- 176 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. mican. The officers contented themselves with the short supply of half a pound a day, but the laboring men could not do with less than a pound and three- quarters. The cold now set in with an intensity which Captain Back had never before experienced, — the ther- mometer, on the 17th of January, being 70° below zero. " Such indeed, (he says,) was the abstraction of heat, that with eight large logs of dry wood on the fire, I could not get the thermometer higher than 12° below zero. Ink and paint froze. The sextant cases and boxes of seasoned wood, principally fir, all split. The skin ofi^he hands became dry, cracked and opened into unsightly and smarting gashes, which we were obliged to anoint with grease. On one occasion, after washing my face within three feet of the fire, my hair was actually clotted with ice before I had time to dry it." The hunters suffered severely from the intensity of jhe cold, and compared the sensation of handling their guns to that of touching red-hot iron, and so excessive was the pain, that they were obliged to wrap thongs of leather round the triggers to keep their fingers from coming into contact with the steel. The sufferings which the party now endured were great, and had it not been for the exemplary conduct of Akaitcho in procuring them game, it is to be doubted whether any would have survived to tell the misery they had endured. The sentiments of this worthy sav age were nobly expressed — " The great chief trusts in us, and it is better that ten Indians perish, than that one white man should perish through our negligence and breach of faith." On the 14th of February, Mr. McLeod and his family removed to a place half way between the fort and the Indians, in order to facilitate their own support, and assist in procuring food by hunting. His situation, however, became soon one of the greatest embarrass- ment, he and his family being surrounded by difficul- ties, privations, and deaths. Six of the natives near him sank under the horrors of starvation, and Akaitchc and his hunters were twelve days' march distant. 177 Toward the end of April, Capt. Back began to make arrangements for constructing boats for prosecuting the expedition once more, and wbile so employed, on the 25th a messenger arrived with the gratifying intelli- gence, that Capt. Koss had arrived safely in England, confirmation of which, was afforded in extracts from the Times and Herald^ and letters from the long lost adventm-ers themselves. Their feelings at these glad tidings are thus described : — " In the fullness of our hearts we assembled together, and humbly offered up ©ur thanks to that merciful Providence, who in the, beautiful language of scripture hath said, ' 3iine own will I bring again, as I did sometime from the deeps of the sea.' The thought of so wonderful a preserva- tion overpowered for a time the common occurrences of life. We had just sat down to breakfast ; but our uppetite was gone, and the day was passed in a fever- ish state of excitement Seldom, indeed, did my friend Mr. King or I indulge in a libation, but on this joyful occasion economy was forgotton ; a treat was given to the men, and for ourselves the social sympathies were quickened by a generous bowl of punch." Capt. Back's former interpreter, Augustus, hearing that he was in the country, set out on loot from Hudson's Bay to join him, but getting separated from his two companions, the gallant little fellow was either exhausted by suffer- ing and privations, or, caught in the midst of an open traverse, in one of those terrible snow storms which may be said to blow almost through the frame, he had sunk to rise no more, his bleached remains being dis- covered not far from the Biviere a Jean. " Such," says Capt. Back, " was the miserable end of poor Au- gustus, a faithful, disinterested, kind-hearted creature, who had won the regard, not of myself only, but I may add, of Sir J. Franklin and Dr. Richardson also, by qualities which, wherever found, in the lowest as in the highest forms of social life, are the ornament and charm of humanity." On the 7th of June, all the preparations being com- I ^eted, McLeod having been previously sent on to hunt, 12 178 TEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. and deposit casks of meat at various stages, Back set out with Mr. King, accompanied by four voyagers and an Indian guide. The stores not required were buried, and the doors and windows of the house blocked up. At Artillery Lake, Back jDicked up the remainder of his party, with the carpenters who had been em- ployed preparing boats. The lightest and best was chosen and placed on runners plated with iron, and in this manner she was drawn over the ice by two men and six fine dogs. The eastern shore of the lake was fol- lowed, as it was found less rocky and precipitous than the opp^ite one. The march was prosecuted by night, the air being more fresh and pleasant, and the party took rest in the day. The glare of the ice, the diffi- culty encountered in getting the boat along, the ice be- ing so bad that the sj^ikes of the runners cut through instead of sliding over it, and the thick snow which fell in June, greatly increased the labor of getting along. The cold, raw wind pierced through them in spite of cloaks and blankets. After being caulked, the boat was launched on the 14th of June, the lake being suf- ficiently unobstructed to admit of her being towed along shore. The weather now became exceedingly unpleasant — hail, snow, and rain, pelted them one after the other for some time without respite, and then only yielded to squalls that overturned the boat. With alternate spells and baitings to rest, they however, gradually advanced on the traverse, and were really making considerable progress when pelting showers of sleet and drift so dimmed and confused the sight, dark- ening the atmosphere, and limiting their view to only a few paces before them, as to render it an extremely perplexing task to keep their course. On the 23d of June, they fortunately fell in with a cache made for them by their avant-coiorier^ Mr. Mc- Leod, in which was a seasonable supply of deer and musk-ox flesh, the latter, however, so impregnated with tlie odor from which it takes its name, that the men de- clared they would rather starve three days than swal low a mouthful of it. To remove this unfavorable im- 179 pression, Capt. Back ordered the daily rations to he served from it for his own mess as well as theirs, tak- ing occasion at the same time, to impress on their minds the injmious consequences of voluntary abstinence, and the necessity of accommodating their tastes to such food as the country might supply. Soon after an- other cache was met wdth, thus making eleven animals in all, that had been thus obtained and secured for them by the kind care of Mr. McLeod. On the 27th, they reached Sandy Hill Bay, where they found Mr. McLeod encamped. On the 28th, the boat b^ng too frail to be dragged over the portage, about a quarter of a mile in length, was carried bodily by the crew, and launched safely in the Thlew-ee-choh or Fish Kiver. After crossing the portage beyond Musk-ox Rapid, about four miles in length, and having all his party together. Captain Back took a survey ol his provisions for the three months of operations, which he found to consist of two boxes of maccaroni, a case of cocoa, twenty-seven bags of pemmican of about 80 lbs. each, and a keg with two gallons of rum. This he considered an adequate supply if all turned out sound and good. The difficulty, however, of transporting a weight of 6000 lbs, over ice and rocks, by a circuitous route of full 200 miles,. may be easily conceived, not to mention the pain endured in walking on some parts where the ice formed innumerable spikes that pierced like needles, and in other places where it was so black and decayed, that it threatened at every step to engulf the adventurous traveler. These and similar difficul ties could only be overcome by the most steady perse verance, and the most determined resolution. Among the group of dark figures huddled together in the Indian encampment around them, Capt. Back found his old acquaintance, the Indian beauty of whom mention is made in Sir John Franklin's narrative un- der the name of Green Stockings. Ahhough sur- rounded with a family, with one urchin in her cloak clinging to her back, and several other maternal ac- companiments, Capt. Back immediately recognized . 8* 18C PEOGRESS OF AKCTIO mSCOYEET. her, and called her by her name, at which she laughed, and said she was an old woman now, and begged that she might be relieved by the " medicine man ^' for she was very much out of health. However, notwithstand-_ ing all this, she was still the beauty of her tribe, and with that consciousness which belongs to all belles, sav- age or polite, she seemed by no means displeased when Back sketched her portrait. Mr. McLeod was now sent back, taking with him ten persons and fourteen dogs. His instructions were to proceed to Fort Resolution for the stores expected to be sent there by the Hudson's Bay Company, to build a house in some good locality, for a permanent fishing station, and to be again on the banks of the Fish Biver by the middle of September, to afford Back and his party any assistance or relief they might require. The^old Indian chief Akaitcho, hearing from the in- terpreter that Capt. Back was in his immediate neigh- borhood, said, " I have known the chief a long time, and I am afraid I shall never see him again ; I will go to him." On his arrival he cautioned Back against the dangers of a river which he distinctly told him the present race of Indians knew nothing of. He also warned him against the treachery of the Esquimaux, which he said was always masked under the guise of friendship, observing they would attack him when he least expected it. " I am afraid," continued the good old chief, " that I shall never see you again ; but should you escape from the great water, take care you are not caught by the winter, and thrown into a situation like that in which you were on your return from the Cop- permine, for you are alone, and the Indians cannot assist you." The carpenters, with an Iroquois, not being further required, were dismissed to join Mr. McLeod, and on the 8th of July they proceeded down the river. The boat was now launched and laden with her cargo, which, together with ten persons, she stowed well enough for a smooth river, but not for a lake or sea way. The weight was calculated at 3360 lbs., exclusive of the awning, poles, sails, &c., and the crew. 181 Tiieir progress to the sea was now one continued suc- cession of dangerous and formidable falls, rapids, and cataracts, which frequently made Back hold his breath, expecting to see the boat dashed to shivers against some protruding rocks amidst the foam and fury at the foot of a rapid. The only wonder is how in their frail leaky boat they ever shot one of the rapids. Kapid after rapid, and fall after fall, were passed, each accompa- nied with more or less danger ; and in one instance the boat was only saved by all hands jumping into the breakers, and keeping her stern up the stream, until she was cleared from a rock that had brought her up. They had hardl;^ time to get into their places again, when they were carried with considerable velocity past a river which joined from the westward. After passing no less than five rapids within the distance of three miles, they came to one long and appalling one, full of rocks and large boulders ; the sides hemmed in by a wall of ice, and the current flying with the veloc- ity and force of a torrent. The boat was lightened of her cargo, and Capt. Back placed himself on a high rock, with an anxious desire to see her run the rapid. He had every hope which confidence in the judgment and dexterity of his principal men could inspire, but it was impossible not to feel that one crash would be fatal to the expedition. Away they went with the speed of an arrow, and in a moment the foam and rocks hid them from view. Back at last heard what sounded in his ear like a wild shriek, and he saw Dr. King, who was a hundred yards before him, make a sign with his gun, and then run forward. Back followed with an agitation which may be easily conceived, when to his inexpressible joy he found that the shriek was the tri umphant whoop of the crew, who had landed safely in a small bay below. For nearly one hundred miles of the distance'they were impeded by these frightful whirl pools, and strong and heavy rapids. On opening one of their bags of pemmican, the in genuity of the Indians at pilfering was discovered, sue cessive layers of mixed sand, stones, and green me a 182 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. having been artfully and cleverly substituted for the dry meat. / Fearful that they might be carrying heaps of stone instead of provision, Back had to examine carefully the remainder, which were all found sound and well-tasted. He began to fear, from the inclinatioE of the river at one time toward the south, that it Would be found to discharge itself in Chesterfield Inlet, in Hudson's Bay, but subsequently, to his great joy, it took a direct course toward the north, and his hopes of reaching the Polar Sea were revived. The river now led into several large lakes, some studded with islands, which were named successively after Sir H. Pelly, and Mr. Garry, of the Hudson's Bay Company ; two others were named Lake Macdougall and* Lake Franklin. On the 28th of July, they fell in with a tribe of about thirty-five very friendly Esquimaux, who aided them in transporting their boat over the last long and steep portage, to which his men were utterly unequal, and Back justly remarks, to their kind assistance he is mainly indebted for getting to the sea at all. It was late when they got away, and while threading their course between some sand-banks with a strong current, they first caught sight of a majestic headland in the extreme distance to the north, which had a coast-like appearance. This important promontory, Back subsequently named after our gracious Queen, then Princess Victoria. " This, then," observes Back, " may be considered as the mouth of the Thlew-ee-choh, which after a violent and tortuous course of 530 geographical miles, running through an iron-ribbed country, without a single tree on the whole line of its banks, expanding into five large lakes, with clear horizon, most embarrassing to the navigator, and broken into falls, cascades, and lip- ids, to the number of eighty-three in the whole, pours its water into the Polar Sea, in lat. 67° 11' N., and long. 94° 30' W., that is to say, about thirty-seven miles more south than the Coppermine River, and nineteen miles more south than that of Back's River, (of Frank lin,) at the lower extremity of Bathurst's Inlet." 183 h jr several days Back was able to make but slow \ t ogress along the eastern shore, in consequence of the solid body of drift-ice. A barren, rocky elevation of 800 feet high, was named Cape Beaufort, after the present hydrographer to the Admiralty. A bluff point on the eastern side of the estuary, which he considered to be the northern extreme, he named Cape Hay. Dean and Simpson, however, in 1839, traced the shore much beyond this. The difficulties met with here, be- fan to dispirit the men. For a week or ten days they ad a continuation of wet, chilly, foggy weather, and the only vegetation, fern and moss, was so wet that it would not burn ; being thus without fuel, during this time they had but one hot meal. Almost without water, without any means of warmth, or any kind of warm or comforting food, sinking knee-deep, as they proceeded on land, in the soft slush and snow, no won- der that some of the best men, benumbed in their limbs and dispirited by the dreary and unpromising prospect before them, broke out for a moment, in low murmur- ings, that theirs was a hard and painful duty. Captain Back found it utterly impossible to proceed, as he had intended, to th^Point Turnagain of Franklin, and after vainly essaying a land expedition by three of the best walkers, and these having returned, after mak- ing but fifteen miles' way, in consequence of the heavy rains and the swampy nature of the ground, he came to the resolution of returning. Reflecting, he says, on the long and dangerous stream they had to ascend combining all the bad features of the worst rivers in the country, the hazard of the falls and the rapids, and the slender hope which remained of their attaining even a single mile farther, he felt he had no choice. Assembling, therefore, the men around him, and un- furling the British flag, which was saluted with three cheers, he annoimced to them this determination. The latitude of this place was 6S° 13' 5T" E"., and longitude 94° 58' V W. The extreme point seen to the north- ward on the western side of the estuary, in latitude 68° 46' N"., longitude 96° 20' W., Back named Cape Eich- 184 PEOGEESS OF AECtlC DISCOVERY. ardsoB. The spirits of many of tlie men, whose health had snifered greatly for want of warm and nourishing food, now brightened, and they set to work with alac- rity to prepare for their return jonrney. The boat be- ing dragged across, was brought to the place of their former station, after which the crew went back four miles for their baggage. The whole was safely con- veyed over before the evening, when the water-casks were broken up to make a fire to warm a kettle of cocoa, the second hot meal they had had for nine days. On the 15th of Angnst, they managed to make their way about twenty miles, on their return to the south- ward, through a breach in the ice, till they came to open water. The difficulties of the river were doubled in the ascent, from having to proceed against the stream. All the obstacles of rocks, rapids, sand-banks, and long portages had to be faced. In some days as many as sixteen or twenty rapids were ascended. They found, as they proceeded, that many of the deposits of pro- visions, on which they relied, had been discovered and destroj^ed by wolves. On the 16th of September, they met Mr. McLeod and his party, who had been several days at Sand Hill Bay, waiting for them. On the 24:th, they reached the Ah-hel-dessy, where they met with some Indians. They were ultimately stopped by one most formidable perpendicular fall, and as it was found impossible to convey the boat further over so rugged and mountainous a country, most of the declivities of which were coated with thin ice, and the whole hidden by snow, it was here abandoned, and the party pro- ceeded the rest of the journey on foot, each laden with a pack of about 75 lbs. weight. Late on the 27th of September, they arrived at their old habitation. Fort Eeliance, after being absent nearly four months, wearied indeed, but " truly grateful for the manifold mercies they had experienced in the course of their long and perilous' journey." Arrange- ments were now made to pass the winter as comforta- bly as their means would permit, and as there was no probability that there would le sufficient food in the 185 house for the consumption of the whole party, all ex- cept six were sent with Mr. McLeocl to the fisheries. The Indians brought them provisions from time to time, and their friend Akaitcho, with his followers, though not very successful in himting, was not wanting in his contributions. This old chieftain was, however, no longer the same active and important personage he had been in the days when he rendered such good service to Sir John Franklin. Old age and infirmities were creeping on him and rendering him peevish and fickle. On the 21st of March following, having left direc- tions with Dr. King to proceed, at the proper season, to the Company's factory at Hudson's Bay, to embark for England in their spring ships. Captain Back set out on his return through Canada, calling at the Fishe- ries to bid farewell to his esteemed friend, Mr. McLeod, and arriving at the !N"orway House on the 24th, where he settled and arranged the accounts due for stores, &c., to the Hudson's Bay Company. He proceeded thence to l^ew York, embarked for England, and ar- rived at Liverpool on the 8th of September, after an absence of two years and a half Back was honored with an audience of his Majesty, who expressed his ap- probation of his efforts — first in the cause of human- ity, and next in that of geographical and scientific re- search. He has since been knighted ; and in 1835, the :!Royal Geographical Society awarded him their gold medal, (the Eoyal premium,) for his discovery of the Great Fish River, and navigating it to the sea on the arctic coast. Dr. King, with the remainder of the party, (eight men,) reached England, in the Hudson's Bay Com- pany's ship, in the following month, October. Of Captain Back's travels it has been justly observed that it is impossible to rise from the perusal of them without being struck with astonishment at the extent of sufferings which the human frame can endure, and at the same time the wondrous display of fortitude which was exhibited under circumstances of so appalling a nature, 186 PROGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. as to invest the narrative with the character of a roman- tic fiction, rather than an nnexaggerated tale of actual reality. He, however, suffered not despair nor despon- dency to overcome him, but gallantly and undauntedly pursued his course, until he returned to his native land to add to the number of those noble spirits whose names will be carried to posterity as the brightest ornaments to the country which gave them birth. Captain Back's Yoyage of the Tekeok. In the year 1836, Captain Back, who had only re- turned the previous autumn, at the recommendation of the Geographical Society, undertook a voyage in the Terror ujd Hudson's Strait. He was to reach Wager Kiver, or Eepulse Bay, and to make an overland journey, to examine the bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet, sending other parties to the north and west to examine the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and to reach, if possible, Franklin's Point Turn- again. Leaving England on the 14:th of June, he arrived on the 14th of August at Salisbury Island, and proceeded up the Frozen Strait ; off Cape Comfort the ship got frozen in, and on the breaking up of the ice by one of those frequent convulsions, the vessel was drifted right up the Frozen Channel, grinding large heaps that op- posed her progress to powder. From December to March she was driven about by the fury of the storms and ice, all attempts to release her being utterly powerless. She thus floated till the 10th of July, and for three days was on her beam-ends ; but on the 14th she suddenly righted. The crazy vessel with her gaping wounds was scarcely able to transj^ort the crew across the stormy waters of the Atlantic, but the return voyage which was rendered absolutely neces- sary, was fortunately accomplished safely. I shall now give a concise summary of Captain Sir George Back's arctic services, so as to present it more readily to the reader; 1S7 In 1818 he was Admiralty Mate on board the Trent, 4uder Franklin. In 1819 he again accompanied him on his first overland journey, and was with him in all those perilous sufferings which are elsewhere narrated. He was also as a Lieutenant with Franklin on his sec- Dud journey in 1825. Having been in the interval ]3ro- moted to the rank of Commander, he proceeded, in 1833, accompanied by Dr. King and a party, through I^orth- ern America to the Polar Sea, in search of Captain John Eoss. He was j)osted on the 30th of September, 1835, and appointed in the following year to the com- mand of the Terror, for a voyage of discovery in Hud- son's Bay.* * Messes. Dease and Simpson's Discoveries. In 1836 the Hudson's Eay Company resolved U23on undertaking the completion of the survey of the north ern coast of their territories, forming the shores of Arctic America, and small portions of which were left undetermined between the discoveries of Captains Back and Franklin. They commissioned to this task two of their officers, Mr. Thomas Simpson and Mr. Peter Warren Dease, who were sent out with a party of twelve men from the com pany's chief fort, with proper aid and ap23liances. De- scending the Mackenzie to the sea, they reached and surveyed in July, 1837, the remainder of the western part of the coast left unexamined by Franklin in 1825, from his Return Reef to Cape Barrow, where the Bios som's boats turned back. Proceeding on from Return Reef two new rivers were discovered, — the Garry and the Colville ; the latter more than a thousand miles in length. Although it was the height of summer, the ground was found frozen several inches below the surface, the spray froze on the oars and rigging of their boats, and the ice lay smooth and solid in the bays, as in the depth of winter. On the 4th of August, having left the boats and pro-^ needed on by land, Mr. Simpson arrived at Elson Bay, 188 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. whicli point Lieutenant Elson had readied in the Blos- som's barge in 1826. The party now returned to winter at Fort Confidence, on Great Bear Lake, whence they were instructed to pi-osecute their search to the eastward next season, and to communicate if possible with Sir George Back's expedition. They left their winter quarters on the 6th of June, 1838, and descended Dease's River. They found the Coppermine River much swollen by floods, and encum- bered with masses of floating ice. The rapids they had to pass were very perilous, as may be inferred from the following graphic description : — " We had to pull for our lives to keep out of the suc- tion of the precipices, along whose base the breakers raged and foamed with overwhelming fury. Shortly before noon, we came in sight of Escape Rapid of Franklin ; and a glance at the overhanging cliff told us that there was no alternative but to run down with a full cargo. In an instant," continues Mr. Simpson, " we were in the vortex ; and before we were aware, my boat was borne toward an isolated rock, which the boiling surge almost concealed. To clear it on the outside was no longer possible ; our only chance of safety was to run between it and the lofty eastern cliff. The word was passed, and every breath was hushed. A stream which dashed down upon us over the brow of the preci pice more than a hundred feet in height, mingled with the spray that whirled upward from the rapid, forming a terrific shower-bath. The pass was about eight feet wide, and the error of a single foot on either side would have been instant destruction. As, guided by Sinclair's consummate ' skill, the boat shot safely through those jaws of death, an involuntary cheer arose. Our next impulse was to turn round to view the fate of our com- rades behind. They had profited by the peril we in- curred, and kept without the treacherous rock in time." On the 1st of July they reached the sea, and en- camped at the mouth of the river, where they waited for the opening of the ice till the 17th. They doubled 189 Cape Barrow, one of the northern points of Bathurst's Inlet, on the 29th, but were prevented crossing the inlet by the continuity of the ice, and obliged to make a circuit of nearly 150 miles by Arctic Sound. Some very pure specimens of copper ore were found on one of the Barry Islands. After doubling Cape Flinders on the 9th of August, the boats were arrested by the ice in a little bay to which the name of Boat Haven was given, situate about three miles from Frank- lin's farthest. Here the boats lingered for the best part of a month, in utter hopelessness. Mr. Simpson pushed on therefore on the 20th, with an exploring party of seven men, provisioned for ten days. On the first day they passed Point Turnagain, the limit of Frank- lin's survey in 1821. On the 23d they had reached an elevated cape, with land apparently closing all round to the northward, so that it was feared they had only been traversing the coast of a huge bay. But the perseverance of the adventurous explorer was fully re- warded. "With bitter disappointment," writes Mr. Simpson, " I ascended the height, from whence a vast and splen- did prospect burst suddenly upon me. The sea, as if transformed by enchantment, rolled its fierce waves at my feet, and beyond the reach of vision to the eastward, Islands of various shape and size overspread its surface ; and the northern land terminated to the eye in a bold and lofty cape, bearing east northeast, thirty or forty- miles distant, while the continental coast trended away southeast. I stood, in fact, on a remarkable headland, at the eastern outlet of an ice-obstructed strait. On the extensive land to the northward I bestowed the name of our most gracious sovereign Queen Victoria. Its eastern visible extremity I called Cape Pelly, in com- pliment to the governor of Hudson's Bay Company." Having reached the limits which prudence, dictated in the face of the long journey back to the boats, many of his men too being lame, Mr. Simpson retraced his Bteps, and the party reached Boat-haven on the 20th of August, having traced nearly 140 miles of new coast. 190 PKOGRESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY. The boats were cut out of their icy prison, and com mencecl their re-ascent of the Coppermine on the 3d oi September. At its junction with the Kendal River they left their boats, and shouldering their packs, traversed the barren grounds, and arrived at their residence on the lake by the 14th of September. The following season these persevering explorers com- menced their third voyage. They reached the Bloody Fall on the 22d of June, 1839, and occupied themselves for a week in carefully examining Richardson's River, which was discovered in the previous year, and dis- charges itself in the head of Back's Inlet. On the 3d of July they reached Cape Barrow, and from its rocky heights were surprised to observe Coronation Gulf alniost clear of ice, while on their former visit it could have been crossed on foot. They were at Cape Franklin a month earlier tlian Mr. Simpson reached it on foot the previous year, and doubled Cape Alexander, the northernmost cape in this quarter, on the 28th of July, after encountering a vio- lent gale. They coasted the huge bay extending for about nine degrees eastward from this point, being fa- vored with clear weather, and protected by the various islands they met from the crushing state of the ire drifted from seaward. On the 10th of August they opened a strait about ten miles wide at each extremity, but narrowing to foiw or five miles in the center. This strait, which divides the main-land from Boothia, has been called Simpson's Strait. On the 13th of August they had passed Richardson's Point and doubled Point Ogle, the furthest jDoint of Back's journey in 1834. By the 16th they had reached Montreal Island in Back's Estuary, where they found a deposit of pro- visions which Ca^Dtain Back had left there that day five years. The pemmican was unfit for use, but out of several pounds of chocolate half decayed the men con- trived to pick sufiicient to make a kettleful accej)table drink in honor of the occasion. There were also a tin DBASE AND SIMPSOn's DISCOVEEIES. 191 case &nd a few fish-hooks, of which, observes Mr. Simpson, " Mr. Dease and I took possession, as memo- rials of our having breakfasted on the very spot where the tent of onr gallant, though less successful precursor stood that very day five years before. By the 20th of August they had reached as far as Aberdeen Island to the eastward, from which they had a view of an apparently large gulf, corresponding with that which had been so correctly described to Parry by the intelligent Esquimaux female as Akkolee. From a mountainous ridge about three miles inland a view of la'nd in the northeast was obtained supposed to be one of the southern promontories of Boothia. High and distant islands stretching from E. to E. N. E. (probably some in Committee Bay) were seen, and two considerable ones were noted far out in the ofiing. Kemembering the length and difliculty of their return route, the explorers now retraced their ste]3S. On their return voyage they traced sixty miles of the south coast of Bootliia, where at one time they were not more than jiinety miles from the site of the magnetic pole, as de- termined by Captain Sir James C. itoss. On the 25th of August they erected a high cairn at their farthest point, near Cape Herschel. About 150 miles of the high, bold shores of Victoria Land, as far as Cape Parry, were also examined; Wellington, Cambridge, and Byron Bays being sur- veyed and accurately laid down. The}^ then stretched across Coronation Gulf, and re-entered the Copper- mine River on the 16th of September. Abandoning here one of their boats, with the re- mains of their useless stores and other articles not required, they ascended the river and reached Fort Confidence on the 24:th of September, after one of the longest and most successful boat voyages ever per- formed on the Polar Sea, having traversed more than 1600 miles of sea. In 1838, before the intelligence of this last trip had been received, Mr. Simpson was presented by the Poyal Geographical Society of London with the 192 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Founder's Gold Medal, for discovering and tracing in 1837 and 1838 about 300 miles of the arctic shores ; "but the voyage which I have just recorded has added greatly to the laurels which he and his bold compan- ions have achieved. Dr. John Eae's Land Expedition, 1846-4:7. Although a little out of its chronological order, I give Dr. Eae's exploring trip before I proceed to no- tice Franklin's last voyage, and the different relief expeditions that have been sent out during the past two years. In 1846 the Hudson's Company dispatched an ex- pedition of thirteen persons, under the command of Dr. John Rae, for the purpose of surveying the unex- plored portion of the arctic coast at the northeastei'n angle of the American continent between Dease and Simpson's farthest, and the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. The expedition left Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay, on the 5th of July, 1846, and returned in safety to York Factory on the 6th September in the follow- ing year, after having, by traveling over ice and snow in the spring, traced the coast all the way from the Lord Mayor's Bay of Sir John Ross to within eight or ten miles of the Fury and Hecla Strait, thus prov- ing that eminent navigator to have been correct in stating Boothia to be a peninsula. On the 15th of July the boats first fell in with the ice, about ten miles north of Cape Fullerton, and it was so heavy and closely packed that they were obliged to take shelter in a deep and narrow inlet that opportunely presented itself, where they were closed up two days. On the 22d the party reached the most southerly opening of "VYager Eiver or Bay, but were detained the whole day by the immense quantities of heavy ice driving in and out with the flood and ebb of the tide, which ran at the rate of eight miles an hour, forcing up DE. JOHK EAe's LAm) EXPEDITION. 193 the ice and grinding it against the rocks with a noise like thunder. On the night of the 24th the boats anchored at the head of the Repulse Bay. The follow- ing day they anchored in Gibson's Cove, on the banks of which they met with a small party of Esquimaux ; several of the women wore beads round their wrists. which they had obtained from Captain Parry's ship when at Igloolik and Winter Island. But they had neither heard nor seen anything of Sir John Franklin. Learning from a chart drawn by one of the natives, that the isthmus of Melville peninsula was only about forty miles across, and that of this, owing to a number of large lakes, but five miles of land would have to be passed over. Dr. Rae determined to make his way over this neck in preference to proceeding by Fox's Channel through the Fury and Hecla Strait. One boat was therefore laid up with her cargo in security, and with the other the party set out, assisted by three Esquimaux. After traversing several large lakes, and crossing over six '' portages," on the 2d of August they got into the salt water, in Committee Bay, but being able to make but little progress to the northwest,' in consequence of heavy gales and closely packed ice, he returned to his starting point, and made preparations for wintering, it being found impossible to proceed with the survey at that time. The other boat was brought across the isthmus, and all hands were set to work in making preparations for a long and cold winter. As no wood was to be had, stones were collected to build a house, w^hich was finished by the 2d of Sep- tember. Its dimensions were twenty feet by fourteen, and about eight feet high. The roof was formed of oil-cloths and morse-skin coverings, the masts and oars of the boats serving as rafters, while the door was made of parchment skins stretched over a wooden frame. The deer had already commenced migrating south- ward, but whenever he had leisure. Dr. Eae shoul- dered his rifle, and had frequently good success, shoot- 1 194 PKOGKESS OF AliCTIC DISOOVEKY. ing on one day seven deer within two miles of their encampment. On the 16th of October, the thermometer fell to zero, and the greater part of the reindeer had passed ; but the party had by this time shot 130, and dm-ing the remainder of October, and in ISTovember, thirty- two more were killed, so that with 200 partridges and a few salmon, their snow-built larder was pretty well stocked. Sufficient fuel had been collected to last, with econ- omy, for cooking, until the spring ; and a couple of seals which had been shot produced oil enough for their lamjDS. By nets set in the lakes under the ice, a few salmon were also caught. After passing a very stormy winter, with the tem- perature occasionally 47° below freezing point, and often an allowance of but one meal a day, toward the end of February preparations for resuming their sur- veys in the spring were made. Sleds, similar to those used by the natives, were constructed. In the begin- ning of March the reindeer began to migrate north- ward, but were very shy. One was shot on the 11th. Dr. Rae set out on the 5th of April, in. company w^ith three men and two Esquimaux as interpreters, their provisions and bedding being drawn on sleds by four dogs. ITothing worthy of notice occurs in this explorp.tory trip, till on the 18th Kae came in sight of Lord Mayor's Bay, and the group of islands with w^hich it is studded. The isthmus whicli connects the land to the northward with Boothia, he found to be only about a mile broad. On their return the party fortunately fell in with fcyir Esquimaux, from whom they obtained a quantity of seal's blubber for fuel and dog's food, and some of the flesh and blood for their own use, enoug?i to maintain them for six days on half allowance. All the purty were more or less affected with snow blindness, but arrived at their winter quarters in He- pulse Bay on the 5th of May, all safe and wel], but as black as negroes, from the combined effects of frost- bites and oil smoke. DK. JOHN EAe's land EXPEDITION. 195 On the evening of the 13th May, Dr. Rae again started with a chosen party of four men, to trace the west shore of Melville peninsula. Each of the men carried about TO lbs. weight. Being unable to obtain a drop of water of nature's thawing, and fuel being rather a scarce article, they were obliged to take small kettles of snow under the blankets with them, to thaw by the heat of the body. Having reached to about 69° 42' N. lat., and 85° 8' long., and their provisions being nearly exhausted, they were obliged, much to their disappointment, to turn back, when only within a few miles of the Hecla and Fury Strait. Early on the morning of the 30th of May, the party arrived at their snow hut on Cape Thomas Simpson. The men they had left there were well, but very thin, as they had neither caught nor shot any thing eatable, except two marmots, and they were preparing to cook a piece of parchment skin for their supper. " Our journey," says Dr. Kae, " hitherto had been the most fatiguing I had ever experienced ; the severe exercise, with a limited allowance of food, had reduced the whole party very much. However, we marched merrily on, tightening our belts — mine came in six inches — the men vowing that when they got on full allowance, they would make up for lost time." On the morning of the 9th of June, they arrived at their encampment in Eepulse Bay, after being absent twenty-seven days. The whole party then set actively to work procuring food, collecting fuel, and preparing the boats for sea ; and the ice in the bay having broken up on the 11th of August, on the 12th they left their winter quarters, and after encountering head winds and stormy weather, reached Churchill Eiver on the 31st of August. A gratuity of 4:001. was awarded to Mr. Eae, by the Hudson's Bay Company, for the T.tiportant services he had thus rendered to the cause i' science. 196 peogeess of aectio discoveet. Captain Sie John Feanklin's Last Expedition* 1845-51. That Sir John Franklin, now nearly six years aV sent, is alive, we dare not affirm ; but that his ships should be so utterly annihilated that no trace of them can be discovered, or if they have been so entirely lost, that not a single life should have been saved to relate the disaster, and that no traces of the crew or vessels should have been met with by the Esquimaux, or the exploring parties who have visited and investi- gated those coasts, and bays, and inlets to so consid- erable an extent, is a most Extraordinary circumstance. It is the general belief of those officers who have served in the former arctic expeditions, that whatevei accident may have befallen the Erebus and Terror, they cannot wholly have disappeared from those seas, and that some traces of their fate, if not some living remnant of their crews, must eventually reward the search of the diligent investigator. It is possible that they may be found in quarters the least expected. There is still reason, then, for liojpe^ and for the great and honorable exertions which that divine spark in the soul has prompted and still keeps alive. "There is something," says the Athenaeum, "in- tensely interesting in the picture of those dreary seas amid whose strange and unsj)eakable solitudes our lost countrymen are, or have been, somewhere imprisoned for so many years, swarming with the human life that is risked to set them free. JSTo haunt was ever so ex- citing — so full of a wild grandeur and a profound pathos — as that which had just aroused the arctic echoes ; that wherein their brothers and companions have been beating for the track by which they may rescue the lost mariners from the icy grasp of the Ge- nius of the J^orth. Fancy these men in their adaman tine prison, wherever it may be, — chained up by the polar spirit whom they had dared, — lingering through years of cold and darkness on the stinted ration that scarcely feeds the blood, and the feeble hope that 197 scarcely sustains the heart, — and then imagine the rush of emotions to greet the first cry from that wild hunting ground which should reach th'jir ears ! Through many summers has that cry been listened for, no doubt. Something like an expectation of the rescue which it should announce has revived with each returning sea- son of comparative light, to die of its own baffled in- tensity as the long dark months once more settled down upon their dreary prison-house. — There is scarcely a doubt that the track being now struck, these long- pining hearts may be traced to their lair. But what to the anxious questioning which has year by year gone forth in search of their fate, will be the answer now revealed ? The trail is found, — but what of the weary feet that made it? "We are not willing needlessly to alarm the public sympathies, which have been so gene- rously stirred on behalf of the missing men, — but we are bound to warn our readers against too sanguine an entertainment of the hope which the first tidings of the recent discovery is calculated to suggest. It is scarcely possible that the provisions which are sufficient for three years, and adaptable for four, can by any economy which implies less than starvation have been spread over five, — and scarcely probable that they can have been made to do so by the help of any accidents which the place of confinement supplied. We cannot hear of this sudden discovery of traces of the vanished crews as living men, without a wish which comes like a pang that it had been two years ago — or even last year. It makes the heart sore to think how close re- lef may have been to their hiding-place in former years — when it turned away. There is scarcely reason to doubt that had the present circumstances of the search occurred two years ago — last year j)erhaps — the wanderers would have been restored. Another year makes a frightful difference in the odds : — and we do not think the public will ever feel satisfied with what has been done in this matter if the oracle so long questioned, and silent so long, shall speak at last — and the answer shall be, ' It is too late.' " 198 PROGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. In the prosecution of the noble enterprise on which all eyes are now turned, it is not merely scientific re- search and geogra]3hical discovery that are at present occuj)ying the attention of the commanders of vessels sent out ; the lives of human beings are at stake, and above all, the lives of men who have nobly periled every thing in the cause of national — nay, of universal progress and knowledge ; — of men who have evinced on this and other expeditions the most dauntless bra- very that any men can evince. TVho can think of the probable fate of these gallant adventurers without a shudder ? Alas ! how truthfully has Montgomery depicted the fatal imprisonment of vessels in these regions : — There lies a vessel in tliat realm of frost, N"ot -wrecked, not stranded, yet forever lost ; Its keel embedded in the solid mass ; Its ghstening sails appear expanded glass ; The transverse ropes with pearls enormous sti'ung; The yards with icicles grotesquely hung. Wrapt in the topmast shrouds there rests a boy. His old sea-faring father's only joy ; Sprung from a race of rovers, ocean boni, Nursed at the helm, he trod dry land with scorn , Through fourscore years from port to port he veer'd ; Quicksand, nor rock, nor foe, nor tempest fear'd; Now cast ashore, though like a hulk he lie. His son at sea is ever in his eye. He ne'er shall know in his Northumbrian cot, How brief that son's career, how strange his lot ; Writhed round the mast, aud sepulchred in air. Him shall no worm devour, no vulture tear ; Congeal'd to adamant his frame shall last, Though empires change, till tide and time be past Morn shall return, and noon, and eve, and night Meet here with interchanging shade and light ; But from that barque no timber shall decay. Of these cold forms no feature pass away ; Perennial ice around th' encrusted bow. The peopled-deck, and full-rigg'd mast shall grow Till from the sun himself the whole be hid, Or spied beneath a ciystal pyramid : As in pare amber with divergent lines, A rugged shell embossed with sea-weed, shines. From age to age increased with annual snow. This now Mont Blanc among the clouds may glow. Whose conic peak that earliest greets the dawn, And latest from the sun's shut eye withdrawn. 199 Shall from tlie Zenith, through incumbent gloom. Burn lilje a lamp upon this naval tomb. But when th' archangel's trumpet sounds on high, The pile shall burst to atoms through the sky. And leave its dead, upstarting at the call, leaked and pale^ before the Judge of alL All who read these pages will, I am sure, feel the deepest sympathy and admiration of the zeal, persever- ance, and conjugal affection displayed in the noble and untiring efforts of Lady Franklin to relieve or to dis- cover the fate of her distinguished husband and the gal- lant party under his command, despite the difficulties, disappointments, and heart-sickening " hope deferred " with which these efforts have been attended. All men must feel a lively interest in the fate cf these bold men, and be most desirous to contribute tow^ard their resto- ration to their country and their homes. The name of the present Lady Fi:anklin is as " familiar as a house- hold word " in every bosom in England ; she is alike the object of our admiration, our sympathy, our hopes, and our prayers. Nay, her name and that of her hus- band is breathed in prayer in many lands — and, oh! how earnest, how zealous, how courageous, have been her efforts to find and relieve her husband, for, like Desdemona, " She loved him for the dangers he had passed, And he loved her that she did pity them." How has she traversed from port to port, bidding " God speed their mission " to each public and private ship going forth on the noble errand of mercy — how freely and promptly has she contributed to their comforts. How has she watched each arrival from the north, scanned each stray paragraph of news, hurried to the Admiralty on each rumor, and kept up with unremit- ting labor a voluminous correspondence with all the quarters of the globe, fondly wishing that she had the wings of the dove, that she might ffee away, and be with him from whom Heaven has seen fit to separate her so long. An American poet well depicts her sentiments in the folk>wing lines : — • t 200 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. LADY FRANKLIN'S APPEAL TO THE NORTH.. Oh, wtere, my long lost-one ! art thou, *Mid Arctic seas and wintiy skies ? Deep, Polar night is on me now, And Hope, long wrecked, but mocks my ones I am like thee ! from frozen plains In the drear zone and sunless air. My dying, lonely heart complains. And chills in sorrow and despair. Tell me, ye Northern winds ! that sweep i Down from the rayless, dusky day — i Where ye have borne, and where ye keep, j My well-beloved within your sway ; | Tell me, when next ye wildly bear , The icy message in your breath, ' ' Of my beloved ! Oh tell me where \ Ye keep him on the shores of death. i Tell me, ye Polar seas ! that roll Erom ice-bound shore to sunny isle — Tell me, when next ye leave the Pole, i Where ye have chained my Igi-d the while! i On the bleak Northern cliff I wait ^ With tear -pained eyes to see ye come I i Will ye not tell me, ere too late ? Or will ye mock while I am dumb ? Tell me, oh tell me, mountain waves ! Whence have ye leaped and spning to-daj t Have ye passed o'er their sleeping graves That ye rush wildly on your way ? Will ye sweep on and bear me too ^ Down to the caves within the deep ? S Oh, bring some token to my view That ye my loved one safe wiU keep I Canst thou not tell me. Polar Star I Where in the frozen waste he kneels ? And on the icy plains afar His love to God and me reveals ? Wilt thou not send one brighter ray To my lone heart and aching eye ? Wilt thou not turn my night to day. And wake my spirit ere I die ? Tell rae„ oh dreaiy North ! for now My soul is like thine Arctic zonej Beneath the darkened skies I bow. Or ride the stormy sea alone ! Tell me of my beloved ! for I Know not a ray ray lord without I Oh, tell me, that I may not die A SQiTower on th^ sea of doubt I 201 In the early part of 1849, Sir E. Parry stated, tha^ in offering his opinions, he did so under a deep sense of the anxious and even painful responsibility, both as regarded the risk of life, as well as the inferior consid- eration of expense involved in further attempts to res cue our gallant countrymen, or at least the surviving portion of them, from their perilous position. But it was his deliberate conviction, that the time had not yet arrived when the attempt ought to be given up as hopeless : the further efforts making might also be the means of determining their fate, and whether it pleased God to give success to those efforts or not, the Lords of the Admiralty, and the country at large, would hereafter be better satisfied to have followed up the noble attempts already made, so long as the most dis- tant hope remains of ultimate success. In the absence of authentic information of the fate of the gallant band of adventurers, it has been well observed, the terra incognita of the northern coast of Arctic America, will not only be traced, but minutely surveyed, and the solution of the problem of centuries will engage the marked attention of the House of Com- mons, and the legislative assemblies of other parts of the world. The problem is very safe in their hands, so safe indeed that two years will not elapse before it is solved. The intense anxiety and apprehension now so gener- ally entertained for the safety of Sir John Franklin, and the crews of the Erebus and Terror, under his com- mand, who, if still in existence, are now passing through the severe ordeal of a fifth winter, in those inclement regions, imperatively call for every available effort to be made for their rescue from a position so perilous ; and as long as one possible avenue to that position re- mains unsearched, the country will not feel satisfied that every thing has been done, which perseverance and experience can accomplish, to dispel the mystery which at present surrounds their fate. Capt. Sir James Ross having returned successful from ^is antarctic expedition in the close of the preceding 202 PEOGKESS OF AiiCTIC DISCOVEEY. year, in the spring of 1845, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, upon the recommendation of Sir John Barrow, determined on sending out another ex- pedition to the North Pole. Accordingly the command was given to Sir John Fr*^nMin, who re-commissioned the Erebus and Terror, the two vessels which had just returned from the South Polar Seas. The expedition sailed from Sheerness on the 20th of May, 1845. The following are the officers belonging to these vessels, and for whose safety so deep an interest is now felt : — Erebus. Captain — Sir John Franklin, K. C. H. Commander — James Fitzjames, (Capt.) Lieutenants — Graham Gore, (Commander,) Henry T. D. Le Yesconte, James William Fairholme. Mates — Chas. F. des Yaux, (Lieut.,) Eobert O'Sar- gent, (Lieut.) Second Master — Henry F. Collins. Surgeon — Stephen S. Stanley. Assistant-Surgeon — Harry D. S. Goodsir, (acting.) Paymaster and Purser — Chas. H. Osmer. Ice-master — James Reid, acting. 58 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Full Complement, 70, Terror, Captain — Fras. "R. M. Crozier. Lieutenants — Edward Little, (Commander,) Geo. H. Hodgson, John Irving. Mates — Frederick J. Hornby, (Lieutenant,) Robert Thomas, (Lieut.) Ice-master — T. Blanky, (acting.) Second Master — G. A. Maclean. Surgeon — John S. Peddie. Assistant-Surgeon — Alexander McDonald. Clerk in Charge — Edwin J. H. Helpman. 57 Petty Officers, Seamen, &c. Full Complement, 68. 203 Those officers whose rank is within parenthesis have been promoted during their absence. The following is an outline of Capt. Franklin's ser- vices as recorded in O'Byrne's I^aval Biography : — Sir John Franklin, Kt., K. R. G., K. C. H., D. C. L., F. R. S., was born in 1786, at Spilsby, in Lincolnshire, and is brother of the late Sir W. Franklin, Kt., Chief Justice of Madras. He entered the navy in October, 1800, as a boy on board the Polyphemus, 64, Captain John Lawford, under whom he served as midshipman in the action off Copenhagen, 2d of April, 1801. He then sailed with Captain Flinders, in H. M. sloop In- vestigator, on a voyage of discovery to 'New Holland, joining there the armed store-ship Porpoise ; he was wrecked on a coral reef near Cato Bank on the lYth of August, 1803. I shall not follow him through all his subsequent period of active naval service, in which he displayed conspicuous zeal and activity. But we find him taking part at the battle of Trafalgar, on the 21st of October, 1805, on board the Bellerophon, where he was signal midshipman. He was confirmed as Lieu- tenant,, on board the Bedford, 74, 11th of February, 1808, and he then escorted the royal family of Portugal, from Lisbon to South America. He was engaged in very arduous services during the expedition against ISTew Orleans, in the close of 1814, and was slightly^ wounded in boat service, and for his brilliant services on this occasion, was warmly and officially recommended for promotion. On the 14:th of January, 1818, he as- sumed command of the hired brig Trent', in which he accompanied Captain D. Buchan, of the Dorothea, on the perilous voyage of discovery to the neighborhood of Spitzbergen, which I have fully recorded elsewhere. In April, 1819, having paid off the Trent in the pre- ceding I:*^ovember, he was invested with the conduct of an expedition destined to proceed overland from the shores of Hudson's Bay, for the purpose more particu- larly of ascertaining the actual position of the mouth of" the Coppermine Kiver, and the exact trending of the shores of the Polar Sea, to the eastward of that river. 204 PKOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. The details of this fearful undertaking, which en- dured until the summer of 1822, and in the course .of which, he reached as far as Point Turnagain, in latitude 68° 19' N ., and longitude 109° 25' W., and effected a journey altogether of 5550 miles, Captain Franklin has ably set forth in his "J^arrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the year 1819-22," and which I have abridged in preceding pages. He was promoted to the rank of Commander, on the 1st of January, 1821, and reached his post rank on the 20th of ISTovember, 1822. On the 16th of February, 1825, this energetic officer again left England on another ex- pedition to the Frozen Eegions, having for its object a co-operation with Captains F. W. Beechey, and W. E. Parry, in ascertaining from opposite quarters the ex- istence of a northwest passage. The results of this mission will be found in detail in Captain Franklin's "JSTarrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in 1825-7." On his return to England, where he arrived on the 26th of Sept., 1827, Franklin was presented by the Geographical Society of Paris, with a gold medal val- ued at 1200 francs, for having made the most important acquisitions to geographical knowledge during the pre- ceding year, and on the 29th of April, 1829, he received the honor of knighthood, besides being awarded in July following the Oxford degree of a D. C. L. From 1830 to 1834, he was in active service in com- mand of H. M. S. Kainbow, on the Mediterranean sta- tion, and for his exertions during that period as con- nected with the troubles in Greece, was presented with the order of the Redeemer of Greece. Sir John was created a K. C. FL on the 25th of January, 1836, and was for some time Governor of Yan Diemen's Land. He married, on the 16th of August, 1823, Eleanor Anne, youngest daughter of W. Porden, Esq., architect, of Berners Street, London, and secondly, on the 5th of ISTovember, 1828, Jane, second daughter of John Grif- fin, Esq., of Bedford Place. Captain Crozier was in all Parry's expeditions, hav- 205 ing been midsliipnian in the Fury in 1821, in the Hecla in 1824, went out as Lieutenant in the Hecla, with Parry, on his boat expedition to the Pole in 1827, Yolnnteereci in 1836 to go ont in search of the missing whalers and their crews to Davis' Straits, was made a Captain in 1841, and was second in command of the antarctic expedition nnder Sir James Koss, and on his return, appointed to the Terror, as second in command under Franklin. Lieutenant Gore served as a mate in the last fearful voyage of the Terror, under Back, and was also with Hoss in the antarctic expedition. He has attained his commander's rank during his absence. Lieutenant Fairholme was in the E"iger expedition. Lieutenant Little has also been promoted during his absence, and so have all the mates. Commander Fitzjames is a brave and gallant officer, who has seen much service in the East, and has attained to his post rank since his departure. The Terror, it may be remembered, is the vessel in which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt to reach Pepulse Bay, in 1836. The Erebus and Terror were not expected home un- less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some casualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847, nor were any tidings anticipated from them in the in- terval ; but when the autumn of 1847 arrived, without any intelligence of the ships, the attention of H. M. Government was directed to the necessity of searching for, and conveying relief to them, in case of their being imprisoned in the ice, or wrecked, and in want of pro- visions and means of transport. For this purpose a searching expedition in three divisions was fitted out by the government, in the early part of 1848. The investigation was directed to three different quarters simultaneously, viz : 1st, to that by which, in case of success, the ships would come out of the Polar Sea, to the westward, or Behring's Straits. This consisted of a single ship, the Plover, commanded by Captain Moore, which left England in the latter end 206 PEOGEESS OF AECTIO DISCOVEEY. of January, for tlie purpose of entering Behring's Strait. It was intended that she should arrive there in the month of July, and having looked out for a winter har- bor, she might send out her boats northward and east- ward, in which directions the discovery ships, if suc- cessful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in her first season, never even approached the place of her destination, owing to her setting ofi" too late, and to her bad sailing properties. Her subsequent proceedings, and those of her boats along the coast, will be found narrated in after pages. The second division of the expedition was one of boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, or from the 135th to the 115th degree of W. longitude, together with the south coast of Wollaston Land, it being sup- posed, that if Sir John Franklin's party had been com- pelled to leave the ships and take to the boats, they would make for this coast, whence they could reach the Hudson's Bay Company's posts. This party was placed under the command of the faithful friend of Franklin, and the companion of his former travels. Dr. Sir John Richardson, who landed at ^KTew York in April, 1848, and hastened to join his men and boats, which were already in advance toward the arctic shore. He was, however, unsuccessful in his search. The remaining and most important portion of this searching expedition consisted of two ships under the command of Sir James Boss, which sailed in May, 184:8, for the locality in which Franklin's ships entered on. this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis' Straits. These did not, however, succeed, owing to the state of the ice in getting into Lancaster Sound until the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships wintered in the neighborhood of Leopold Island, Regent Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out with pro- visions and fuel, to enable them to stop out another year, were driven out through the Strait by the pack of ice, and returned home unsuccessful. The subse- quent expeditions consequent upon the failure of the 20T foregoing will be found fully detailed and narrated in tlieir proper order. Among the number of volunteers for ttie service of exploration, in the different searching expeditions, were the following: — Mr. Chas. Reid, lately commanding the whaling ship Pacific, and brother to the ice-master on board the Erebus, a man of great experience and respectability. The Rev. Joseph Wolff, who went to Bokhara in search of Capt. Conolly and Col. Stoddart. Mr. John McLean, who had passed twenty-five years as an officer and partner of the Hudson's Bay Company, and who has recently published an interesting narra- tive of his experience in the northwest regions. Dr. Richard King, who accompanied Capt. Back in his land journey to the mouth of the Great Fish River. Lieut. Sherard Osborn, R. ]^., who had recently gone out in the Pioneer, tender to the Resolute. Commander Forsyth, R. ]^., who volunteered for all the expeditions, and was at last sent out by Lady Frank- lin in the Prince Albert. Dr. McCormick, R. IST., who served under Captain Sir E. Parry, in the attempt to reach the North Pole, in 1827, who twice previously volunteered his services in 1847. Capt. Sir John Ross, who has gone out in the Felix, fitted out by the Hudson's Bay Company, and by pri- vate subscriptions ; and many others. Up to the present time no intelligence of any kind has been received respecting the expedition, and its fate is now exciting the most intense anxiety, not only on the part of the British government and public, but of the whole civilized world. The maratime powers of Europe and the United States are vying with each other as to who shall be the first to discover some trace of the :iiissing navigators, and if they be still alive, to render »hem assistance. The Hudson's Bay Company have, witli a noble liberality, placed all their available re- sources of men, provisions, and the services of their chief and most experienced traders, at the disposal of government. The Russian authorities have also given 208 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. every facility for diffusing information and affording assistance in their territories. In a letter from Sir John Franklin to Colonel Sabine, dated from the Whale Fish Islands, 9th of July, 1815, after noticing that, including what they had received from the transport which had accompanied them so far, the Erebus and Terror had on board provisions, fuel, clothing and stores for three years complete from that date, i. e. to July, 1848, he continues as follows: — "1 hope my dear wife and daughter will not be over-anxious if we should not return by the time they have fixed upon; and I must beg* of you to give them the benefit of your advice and experience when that arrives, for you know well, that even after the second winter, without success in our object, we should wish to try some other channel, if the state of our provisions, and the health of the crews justify it. Capt. Dannett, of the whaler. Prince of Wales, while in Melville Bay, last saw the vessels of the expedition, moored to an iceberg, on the 26th of July, in lat. T4° 48' JSr., long. 66^ 13' W., waiting for a favorable open- ing through the middle ice from Bafiin's Bay to Lancas- ter Sound. Capt. Dannett states that during three weeks after parting company with the ships, he exj^erienced very fine w^eather, and thinks they would have made good progress. Lieut. G-rifiith, in command of the transport which accompanied them out with provisions to Baffin's Bay, reports that he left all hands well and in high spirits. Tliey were then furnished, he adds, with every species of provisions for three entire years, independently of five bullocks, and stores of every description for the same period, with abundance of fuel. The following is Sir John Franklin's official letter sent home by the transport : — " Jler Majesty'^s Ship ' Erebus^ " Whale-Fish Islands, V2.th of July, 1845. " I have the honor to acquaint you, for the informa- tion of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that FEANKLIn's last EXPEDITION". 209 her Majesty's sliips Erebus and Terror, with the trans- port, arrived at this anchorage on the 4th instant, hav- ing had a passage of one month from Stromness : the transport was immediately taken alongside this ship, that she might be the more readily cleared ; and we have been constantly employed at that operation till last evening, the delay having been caused not so much in getting the stores transferred to either of the ships, as in making the best stowage of them below, as well as on the upper deck ; the ships are now com- plete with supplies of every kind for three years ; they are therefore very deep; but, happily, we have no reason to expect much sea as we proceed farther. " The magnetic instruments were landed the same morning ; so also were the other instruments requisite for ascertaining the position of the observatory ; and it is satisfactory to find that the result of the observa- tions for latitude and longitude accord very nearly with those assigned to the same place by Sir Edward Parry; those for the dip and variation are equally sat- isfactory, which were made by Captain Crozier with the instruments belonging to the Terror, and by Com- mander Fitzjames with those of the Erebus, " The ships are now being swung, for the purpose of ascertaining the dip and deviation of the needle on board, as was done at Greenhithe, which, I trust, will be completed this afternoon, and I hope to be able to sail in the night. "The governor and principal persons are at this time absent from Disco, so that I have not been able to receive any communication from head quarters as to the state of the ice to the north ; I have, however, icarnt from a Danish carpenter in charge of the Es- quimaux at these islands, that though the winter was severe, the spring was not later than usual, nor was the ice later in breaking away hereabout ; he supposes also that it is now loose as far as 74P latitude, and that our prospect is favorable of getting across the barrier, and as far as Lancaster Sound, without much obstruc- tion. 14 210 PEOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVERY. "The transport will sail for England this day. 1 sliall instruct the agent, Lieutenant Griffiths, to pro- ceed to Deptford, and report his arrival to the Secre- tary of the Admiralty. I have much satisfaction in bearing my testimony to the careful and zealous man- ner in which Lieut. Griffiths has performed the service intrusted to him, and would beg to recommend him, as an officer who appears to have seen much service, to the favorable consideration of their lordships. "It is unnecessary for me to assure their lordships of the energy and zeal of Captain Crozier, Commander Fitzjames, and of the officers and men with whom I have the happiness of being employed on this service. "I have, &c., (Signed) John Feanklin, Captain. "The Right Hon. H. L. Corry, M. P." It has often been a matter of surprise that but one of the copper cylinders which Sir John Franklin was instructed to throw overboard at stated intervals, to record his progress, has ever come to hand, but a re- cent sight of the solitary one which has been received proves to me that they are utterly useless for the purpose. A small tube, about the size of an ordi- nary rocket-case, is hardly ever likely to be observed among huge masses of ice, and the waves of the At- lantic and Pacific, unless drifted by accident on shore, or near some boat. The Admiralty have wisely or- dered them to be rendered more conspicuous by being headed up in some cask or barrel, instructions being issued to Captain Collinson, and other officers of the different expeditions to that eifect. According to Sir John Eichardson, who was on inti- mate terms with Sir John Franklin, his plans were to shape his course in the first instance for the neighbor- hood of Ca|)e Walker, and to ]3ush to the westward in that parallel, or, if that could not be accomplished, to make his way southward, to the channel discovered on the Jiortli coast of the continent, and so on to Behring's Straits ; failing success in that quarter, he meant to re- trace his course to Wellington Sound, and attempt a FEAls^KLm's LAST EXPEDITION. 211 passage northward of Parry's Islands, and if foiled there also, to descend Regent Inlet, and seek the passage along the coast discovered by Messrs. Dease and Simp- eon. Captain Fitzjames, the second in command nnder Sir John Franklin, was much inclined to try the pas- sage northward of Parry's Islands, and he would no doubt endeavor to persuade Sir John to pursue this course if they failed to the southward. In a private letter of Captain Fitzjames to Sir John Barrow, dated January, 1845, he writes as follows : — " It does not appear clear to me what led Parry down Prince Regent Inlet, after having got as far as Melville Island before. The northwest passage is certainly to be gone through by Barrow's Strait, but whether south or north of Parry'a Group, remains to be proved. I am for going north, edging northwest till in longitude 140°, if possible." 1 shall now proceed to trace, in chronological order and succession, the opinions and proceedings of the chief arctic explorers and public authorities, with the private suggestions offered and notice in detail the re- lief expeditions resulting therefrom. In February, 1847, the Lords of the Admiralty state, that having unlimited confidence in the skill and re- sources of Sir John Franklin, they " have as yet felt no apprehensions about his safety ; but on the other hand, it is obvious, that if no accounts of him should arrive by the end of this year, or, as Sir John Ross expects, at an earlier period, active steps must then be taken." Captain Sir Edward Parry fully concurred in these views, observing, " Former experience has clearly shown that with the resources taken from this country, two winters may be passed in the polar regions, not only in safety, but with comfort ; and if any inference can be drawn from the absence of all intelligence of the expe- dition up to this time, I am disposed to consider it ra- ther in favor than otherwise of the success which has attended their efforts." Captain Sir G. Back, in a letter to the Secretary of 212 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. the Admiralty, under date 27th of January, 1848, says, "I cannot bring myself to entertain more than ordi- nary anxiety for the safety and return of Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions." Captain Sir John Eoss records, in February, 1847, his oj^inion that the expedition was frozen up bej^ond Melville Island, from the known intentions of Sir John Franklin to put his ships into the drift ice at the west- ern end of Melville Island, a risk which was deemed in the highest degree imprudent by Lieutenant Parry and the officers of the expedition of 1819-20, with ships of a less draught of water, and in every respect better calculated to sustain the pressure of the ice, and other dangers to which they must be exposed ; and as it is now well known that the expedition has not suc- ceeded in passing Behring's Strait, and if not totally lost, must have been carried by the ice that is known to drift to the southward on land seen at a great dis- tance in that direction, and from which the accumu- lation of ice behind them will, as in Ross's own case, forever prevent the return of the ships ; consequently they must be abandoned. When we remember with what extreme difficulty Eoss's party traveled 300 miles over much smoother ice after they abandoned their vessel, it appears very doubtful whether Franklin and his men, 138 in number, could possibly travel 600 miles. In the contingency of the ships having penetrated some considerable distance to the southwest of Cape "Walker, and having been hampered and crushed in the narrow channels of the Archipelago, which there are reasons for believing occupies the space between Yic- toria, Wollaston, and Banks' Lands, it is well re- marked by Sir John Eichardson, that such accident? among ice are seldom so sudden but that the boats of one or of both ships, with provisions, can be saved ; and in such an event the survivors would either returi? to Lancaster Strait, or make for the continent, accord jng to their nearness. Colonel Sabine remarks, in a letter dated Woolv^ic^, FEANKLIN's last EXPEDITION". 213 5th of May, 1847, — " It was Sir John Franklin's inten- tion, if foiled at one point, to try in succession all the probable openings into a more navigable part of the Polar Sea : the range of coast is considerable in which memorials of the ships' progress would have to be sought for, extending from Melville Island, in the west, to the great Sound at the head of Baffin's Bay, in the east." Sir John Eichardson, when appealed to by the Admi- ralty in the spring of 1847, as regarded the very strong apprehensions expressed at that time for the safety of the expedition, considered they were premature, as the ships were specially equipped to pass two winters in the Arctic Sea, and until the close of that year, he saw no well-grounded cause for more anxiety than was nat- urally felt when the expedition sailed from this country on an enterprise of peril, though not greater than that which had repeatedly been encountered by others, and on one occasion by Sir John Ross for two winters also, but who returned in safety. Captain Sir James C. Eoss, in March, 1847, writes* "I do not think there is the smallest reason for appre- hension or anxiety for the safety and success of the expedition ; no one acquainted with the nature of the navigation of the Polar Sea would have expected they would have been able to get through to Behring's Strait without spending at least two winters in those regions, except under unusually favorable circumstances, which all the accounts from the whalers concur in proving they have not experienced, and I am quite sure neither Sir John Franklin nor Captain Crozier expected to do so. " Their last letters to me from "Whale Fish Islands, the day previous to their departure from them inform me that they had taken on board provisions for three years on full allowance, which they could extend to four years without any serious inconvenience ; so that we may feel assured they cannot want from that cause until after the middle of July, 1849 ; it therefore does not appear to me at all desirable to send after them until the spring of the next year." (1848.) 21d PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. In tlie plan submitted by Captain F. "W. Beecbey, R. E"., in April, 1847, after premising " tbat tbere does not at present appear to be any reasonable apprehen- sion for the safety of tbe expedition," be suggested tbat it would perhaps be prudent that a relief expedition should be sent out that season to Cape Walker, where information of an important nature would most likely be found. From this vicinity one vessel could proceed to examine the various points and headlands in Regent Inlet, and also those to the northward, while the other watched the passage, so that Franklin and his party might not pass unseen, should he be on his return. At the end of the season the ships could winter at Port Bowen, or any other port in the vicinity of Leopold Island. " In the spring of 1848," he adds, "a part}^ should be directed to explore the coast, down to Hecla and Fury Strait, and to endeavor to communicate with the party dispatched by the Hudson's Bay Company in that direc- tion ; and in connection with this part of the arrange- ment, it would render the plan complete if a boali could be sent down Back's River to range the coast to the eastward of its mouth, to meet the above mentioned party ; and thus, while it would complete the geography of that part of the American coast, it would at the same time complete the line of information as to the extensive measures of relief which their lordships have set on foot, and the precise spot where assistance and depots of provisions are to be found. This part of the plan has suggested itself to me from a conversation I had with Sir John Franklin as to his first effort being made to. the westward and southwestward of Cape Walker. It is possible that, after passing the Cape, he may have oeen successful in getting down upon Victoria Land, and have passed his first winter (1845) thereabout, and £hat he may have spent his second winter at a still more advanced station, and even endured a third, without either a prospect of success, or of an extrication of his vessels within a given period of time. " If, in this condition, which I trust may not be the OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 215 case, Sir Jolin T'ranMin should resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer attempting a boat navigation through Sir James Boss's Strait, and up Regent Inlet, to a long land journey across the continent, to the Hud- son's Bay Settlements, to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly unequal." Sir John Richardson remarks upon the above sugges- tions, on the 5th of May, 1847,-^" With respect to a party to be sent down Back's River to the bottom of Regent Inlet, its size and outfit would require to be equal with that of the one now preparing to descend the Mackenzie River, and it could scarcely with the utmost exertions be organized so as to start this sum- mer. The present scarcity of provisions in the Hudson's Bay country precludes the hope of assistance from the Company's southern posts, and it is now too late to provide the means of transport through the interior of supplies from this country, which require to be embarked on board the Hudson's Bay ships by the 2d of June at the latest. " Moreover there is no Company's post on the line of Back's River nearer than the junction of Slave River with Great Slave Lake, and I do not think that under any circumstances Sir John Franklin would attempt that route. " In the summer of 1849, if the resources of the party I am to conduct remain unimpaired, as I have every reason to believe they will, much of what Capt. Beechey suggests in regard to exploring Yictoria Land may be done by it, and indeed forms part of the original scheme. The extent of the examination of any part of the coast in 1848 depends, as I formerly stated, very much on the seasons of this autumn and next spring, which influ- ence the advance of the boats through a long course of river navigation. As Governor Simpson will most likely succeed in procuring an Esquimaux to accom- pany my party, I hope by his means to obtain such information from parties of that nation as may greatly facilitate our finding the ships, should they be detained in that quarter. 216 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. "Were Sir John Franklin thrown upon the north coast of the continent with his boats, and all his crew, I do not think he would attempt the ascent of any river, exce]3t the Mackenzie. It is navigable for boats of large draught, without a portage, for 1300 miles from the sea, or within forty miles of Fort Chipewyan, one of the Company's principal depots, and there are five other posts in that distance. Though these posts could not furnish provisions to such a party, they could, by providing them with nets, and distributing the men to various fishing stations, do much toward procuring food for them. "I concur generally in what Captain Beechey has said with regard to Behring's Straits, a locality with which he is so intimately acquainted, but beg leave to add one remark, viz : that in high northern latitudes the ordinary allowance of animal food is insufiicient in the winter season to maintain a laboring man in health ; and as Sir John Franklin would deem it prudent when detained a second winter to shorten the allowance, symptoms of scurvy may show themselves among the men, as was the case when Sir Edward Parry wintered two years in Fox's Channel. " A vessel, therefore, meeting the Erebus and Terror this season in Behring's Straits, might render great service." ''^ The late Sir John Barrow, Bart., in a memorandum dated July, 1847, says : — " The anxiety that prevails regarding Sir John Frank- lin, and the brave fellows who compose the crews of the two ships, is very natural, but somewhat premature ; it arises chiefly from nothing having been received from them since fixed in the ice of Baffin's Bay, where the last whaling ship of the season of 1845 left them, oppo- site to the opening into Lancaster Sound. Hitherto no difficulty has been found to the entrance into that Sound. If disappointed, rather than return to the south- ward, with the view of wintering at or about Disco^ I * Pali. Paper, N'o. 264, Session 1848, OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 217 sliotild be inclined to think that they would endeavor to enter Smith's Sound, so highly spoken of by Baffin, and which just now that gallant and adventurous Russian, Admiral Count Wrangel, has pointed out in a paper addressed to the Geographical Society as the staining place for an attempt to reach the North Pole ; it would appear to be an inlet that runs up high to the northward, as an officer in one of Parry's ships states that he saw in the line of direction along that inlet, the sun at mid- night skimming the horizon. " From Lancaster Sound Franklin's instructions di- rected him to proceed through Barrow's Strait, as far as the islands on its southern side extended, which is short of Melville Island, which was to be avoided, not only on account of its dangerous coast, but also as being out of the direction of the course to the intended object. Having, therefore, reached the last known land on the southern side of Barrow's Strait, they were to shape a direct course to Behring's Strait, without any devia- tion, except what obstruction might be met with from ice, or from islands, in the midst of the Polar Sea, of which no knowledge had at that time been procured ; but if any such existed, it would of course be left to their judgment, on the spot, how to get rid of such ob- Btructions, by taking a northerly or a southerly course. " The only chance of bringing them upon this (the American) coast is the possibility of some obstruction having tempted them to explore an immense inlet on the northern shore of Barrow's Strait, (short of Mel- ville Island,) called Wellington Channel, which Parry felt an inclination to explore, and more than one of the present party betrayed to me a similar inclination, which I discouraged, no one venturing to conjecture even to what extent it might go, or into what difficulties it might lead. " Under all these circumstances, it would be an act of folly to pronounce any opinion of the state, condi- tion, or position of those two ships ; they are well suited 218 PKOGKESS OF AEOTIC DISCOVERY. for their purpose, and the only donbt I have is that of their being hampered by the screws among the ice." Sir James C. Boss, in his outline of a plan for afford- ing relief, submitted to the Admiralty in December, 1847, suggested that two ships should be sent out to examine Wellington Channel, alluded to in the forego- ing memorandum of Sir John Barrow, and the coast between Capes Clarence and "Walker. A convenient winter harbor might be found for one of the ships near Garnier Bay or Cape Bennell. From this position the coast line could be explored as far as it extended to the westward, by detached parties, early in the spring, as well as the western coast of Boothia, a considerable distance to the southward ; and at a more advanced period of 'the season the whole distance to Cape Nicolai might be completed. The other ship should then proceed alone to the westward, endeavoring to reach Winter Harbor, in Melville Island, or some convenient port in Banks' Land, in which to pass the winter. From these points parties might be sent out early in the spring. The first party should be directed to trace the west- ern coast of Banks' Land, and proceed direct to Cape Bathurst or Cape Parry, on each of which Sir John Bichardson proposes to leave depots of provisions for its use, and then to reach the Hudson's Bay Company's settlement at Fort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie, whence they might travel by the usual route of the traders to the principal settlement, and thence to Eng- land. The second party should explore the eastern shore of Banks' Land, and make for Cape Krusenstern, where, or at Cape Hearne, they will find a eache of provision left by Sir John Bichardson, with whom this jDarty may communicate, and whom it may assist in comple- ting the examination of WoUaston and Yictoria Lands, or return to England by the route he shall deem most advisable. Sir James Boss was intrusted with the carrying out OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 219 of this searcli, in the Enterprise and Investigator, and an account of the voyage and proceedings of these ves- sels will be fonnd recorded in its chronological order. The following letter from Dr. Kichard King to the Lords of the Admiralty contains some useful sugges- tions, although it is mixed up with a good deal of ego- tistical remark : — "IT, Saville Eow^ February^ 1848. "'The old route of Parry, through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, as far as to the last land on its southern shore, and thence in a direct line to Behring's Straits, is the route ordered to be pursued by Frank- lin.' '^ "The gallant officer has thus been dispatched to push his adventurous way between Melville Island and Banks' Land, which Sir E. Parry attempted for two years unsuccessfully. After much toil and hardship, and the best consideration that great man could give to the subject, he recorded, at the moment of retreat, in indelible characters', these impressive thoughts : 'We have been lying near our present station, with an easterly wind blowing fresh, for thirty-six hours together, and although this was considerably off the land, the ice had not during the whole of that time moved a single yard from the shore, affording a proof that there was no space in which the ice was at liberty to move to the westward. The navigation of this part of the Polar Sea is only to be performed by watching the occasional opening between the ice and the shore, md therefore, a continuity of land is essential for this purpose ; such a continuity of land, which was here about to fail, as must necessarily be furnished by the northern coast of America, in whatsoever latitude it may be found.' Assuming, therefore, Sir John Frank- lin has been arrested between Melville Island and Banks' Land, where Sir E. Parry was arrested by dif- ficulties which he considered insurmountable, and hr has followed the advice of that gallant officer, and * Barrow's Arctic Voyages, p. 11. 220 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEET. made for the continuity of America, lie will have turned the prows of his vessel south and west, accord- ing as Banks' Land tends for Yictoria or "Wollaston Lands. It is here, therefore, that we may expect to find the expedition wrecked, whence they will make in their boats for the western land of North Somerset, if that land should not be too far distant. " In order to save the party from the ordeal of a fourth winter, when starvation must be their lot, I propose to undertake the boldest journey that has ever been attempted in the northern regions of America, one which was justifiable only from the circumstances. I propose to attempt to reach the western land of N"orth Somerset or the eastern portion of Yictoria Land, as may be deemed advisable, by the close of the ap- proaching summer ; to accomplish, in fact, in one sum- mer that which has not been done under two. " I rest my hope of success in the performance of this Herculean task upon the fact, that I possess an in- timate knowledge of the country and the people through which I shall have to pass, the health to stand the rigor of the climate, and the strength to undergo the fatigue of mind and body to which 1 must be subjected. A glance at the map of l^orth America, directed to Behring's Strait in the Pacific, Barrow's Strait in the Atlantic, and the land of North Somerset between them, will make it apparent that, to render assistance to a party situated on that coast, there are two ways by sea and one by land. Of the two sea-ways, the route by the Pacific is altogether out of the question ; it is an idea of by-gone days ; while that by the Atlantic is so doubtful of success, that it is merely necessary, to put this assistance aside as far from certain, to mention that Sir John Ross found Barrow's Strait closed in the sum- mer of 1832. To a land journey, then, alone we can look for success ; for the failure of a land journey would be the exception to the rule, while the sea expe- dition would be the rule itself To the western land of North Somerset, where Sir John Franklin is likely to be found, the Great Fish River is the direct and only OPIKIONS AITD SUGGESTIONS. 221 route ; and although the approach to it is through a country too poor ^nd too difficult of access to admit of the transport of provisions, it may be made the medi- um of communication between the lost expedition and the civilized world, and guides be thus placed at their disposal to convey them to the hunting grounds of the Indians. Without such guides it is impossible that they can reach these hunting grounds, it was by the Great Fish River that I reached the Polar Sea while acting as second officer, in search of Sir John Ross. I feel it my duty, therefore, as one of two officers so peculiarly circumstanced, at the present moment to place my views on record, as an earnest of my sincer- ity. Even if it should be determined to try and force provision vessels through Barrow's Strait, and scour the vicinity in boats for the lost expedition, and should it succeed, it will be satisfactory to know that such a mission as I have proposed should be adopted ; while, if these attempts should fail, and the service under con sideration be put aside, it will be a source of regret that not only the nation at large will feel, but the whole civilized world. When this regret is felt, and every soul has perished, such a mission as I have proposed will be urged again and again for adoption ; for it is impossible that the country will rest satisfied until a search be made for the remains of the lost expedition. " The fact that all lands which have a western aspect are generally ice-free, which I dwelt largely upon when Sir John Franklin sailed, must have had weight with the gallant officer ; he will therefore, on finding him- self in a serious difficulty, while pushing along the east- ern side of Yictoria Land, at once fall upon the western land of ISTorth Somerset, as a refuge ground, if he have the opportunity. The effort by Behring's Strait and Banks' Land is praiseworthy in attempt, but forlorn in hope. In the former effort, it is assumed that Sir John Franklin has made the passage, and that his arrest is betweenr^he Mackenzie River and Icy Cape ; in the latter, fhat Sir James Ross will reach Banks' Land, and trace its continuity to Yictoria and Wollaston Land, 222 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. and tlms make the ' passage.' First, We have no rea- son to believe that Sir John Franklin and Sir James Ross will be more fortunate than their predecessors, and we cannot trust to their success. Secondly, We are unable to assume that Sir James Ross will reach Bank's Land ; Sir E. Parry was unable to reach it, and only viewed it from a distance ; much less are we able to assume that the gallant officer will find a high road to Victoria Land, w^hich is altogether a terra incognita, " Mr. T. Simpson, who surveyed the arctic coast comprised between the Coppermine and Castor and Pollux Rivers, has set that question at rest, and is the only authority upon the subject. ' A further explora- tion,' remarks Mr. Simpson, from the most eastern limit of his journey, ' would necessarily demand the whole time and energies of another expedition, having some point of retreat much nearer to the scene of operations than Great Bear Lake, and Great Bear Lake is to be the retreat of Sir John Richardson.' " What retreat could Mr. Simpson have meant but Great Slave Lake, the retreat of the land party in search of Sir John Ross ? and what other road to the unex- plored ground, the western land of ISTorth Somerset, could that traveler have meant than Great Fish River, that stream which I have pointed out as the ice free and high road to the land where the lost expedition is likely to be found, — to be the boundary of that pass- age which for three and a half centuries we have been in vain endeavoring to reach in ships ? " Captain Sir W. E. Parry, to whom Dr. King's pro- posal was submitted by the Admiralty, thus comments on, it : — " My former opinion, quoted by Dr. King, as to the difficulty of ships penetrating to the westward beyond Cape Dundas, (the southwestern extremity of Melville Island,) remains unaltered ; and I should expect that Sir John Franklin, being aware of this difficulty, would use his utmost efforts to get to the southward and west- ward before he approached that point, that is, between the 100th and 110th degree of longitude. The more I OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS 'A3 have considered this subject, (which has i /^/tZt occu- pied much of ray attention lately,) the more difficult I find it to conjecture where the expedition r^ay have stopped, either with or without any serious accident to the ships ; but as no information has reached us up to this time, I conceive that there is some considerable probability of their being situated somewhere between the longitude I have just named ; how far they may have penetrated to the southward, between those meri- dians, must be a matter of speculation, depending on the state of the ice, and the existence of land in a space hitherto blank on our maps. " Be this as it may, I consider it not improbable, as suggested by Dr. King, that an 'attempt will be made by them to fall back on the western coast of North Somerset, wherever that may be found, as being the nearest point affording a hope of communication, either with whalers or with ships sent expressly in search of the expedition. "Agreeing thus far with Dr. King, I am compelled to differ with him entirely as to the readiest mode of reaching that coast, because I feel satisfied that, with the resources of the expedition now equipping under -Sir James Ross, the energy, skill, and intelligence of that officer will render it a matter of no very difficult enterprise to examine the coast in question, either with his ships, boats, or traveling parties ; whereas an at- tempt to reach that coast by an expedition from the continent of America must, as it appears to me, be ex- tremely hazardous and uncertain. And as I under- stand it to be their lordships' intention to direct Sir James Koss to station one of his ships somewhere about Cape Walker, while the other proceeds on the search, and likewise to equip his boats specially for the pur- pose of examining the various coasts and inlets, I am decidedly of opinion, that, as regards the western coast of ISTorth Somerset, this plan will be much more likely to answer the proposed object, than any overland expedition. This object will, of course, be the more easily accomplished in case of Sir James Ross finding 224: PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. the western coast of l^ortli Somerset navigable for his ships. " In regard to Dr. King's suggestion respecting Yic toria Land and Wollaston Land, supposing Sir John Franklin's ships to have been arrested between the meridians to which I have already alluded, it does seem, by an inspection of the map, not improba.ble that parties may attempt to penetrate to the continent in that direction ; but not being well acquainted with the facilities for reaching the coast of America opposite those lands in the manner proposed by Dr. "King, I am not competent to judge of its practicability." N"early the whole of the west coast of JSTorth Somer- set and Boothia was, (it will be found hereafter,) ex- plored by parties in boats detached from Sir James Boss's ships in 1849. • I append, also, the most important portions of Sir James Ross's remarks on Dr. King's plan. " Dr. King begins by assuming that Sir John Frank- lin has attempted to push the ships through to the west- ward, between Melville Island and Banks' Land, (al- though directly contrary to his instructions ;) that hav- ing been arrested by insurmountable difficulties, he would have ' turned the prows of his vessels to the south and west, according as Banks' Land tends for Victoria or Wollaston Land ;' and having been wrecked, or from any other cause obliged to abandon their ships, their crews would take to the boats, and make for the west coast of IN'orth Somerset. " If the expedition had failed to penetrate to the westward between Banks' Land and Melville Island, it is very probable it would have next attempted to gain the continent by a more southerly course ; and sup'pos- ing that, after making only small progress, (say 100 miles.) to the southwest, it should have been then finally stopped or wrecked, the calamity will have occurred in about latitude Y2^° K, and longitude 115° W. This point is only 280 miles from the Coppermine River and 420 miles from the Mackenzie, either of wliicl would, therefore, be easily attainable, and at each of OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 225 wLicli, abundance of provision might be procured by them, and their return to England a measure of no great difficulty. " At the point above mentioned, the distance from the west coast of North Somerset is probably about 360 miles, and the mouth of the Great Fish River full 500 ; at neither of these places could they hope to obtain a single day's provisions for so large a party ; and Sir John Franklin's intimate knowledge of the impossibil- ity of ascending that river, or obtaining any food for his i)arty in passing through the Barren grounds, would concur in deterring him from attempting to gain either of these points. " I think it most probable that, from the situation pointed out, he would, when compelled to abandon his ships, endeavor in the boats to retrace his steps, and passing through the channel by which he had advanced, and which we have always found of easy navigation, seek the whale ships which annually visit the west coast of Baffin's Bay. " It is far more probable, however, that Sir John Franklin, in obedience to his instructions, would en deavor to push the ships to the south and west as soon as they passed Cape Walker, and the consequence of such a measure, owing to the known prevalence of westerly wind, and the drift of the main body of the ice, would be (in my opinion) their inevitable embarrass- ment, and if he persevered in that direction which he probably would do, I have no hesitation in stating my conviction he would never be able to extricate his ships, and would ultimately be obliged to abandon them. It is therefore in latitude Y3° N . and longitude 105° W. that we may expect to find them involved in the ice, or shut up in some harbor. This is almost the only point in which it is likely they would be detained, or from which it would not be possible to convey informa- tion of their situation to the Hudson's Bay Settlements. " If, then, we suppose the crews of the ships should be compelled, either this autumn or next spring, to abandon their vessels at or near this point, they would 15 225 PROGKli:SS OF AKOTIO DISCOVERT. most assuredly endeavor, in their boats, to reach Lan- caster Sound ; but I cannot conceive any position in which they could be placed from which they would make for the Great Fish River, or at which any party descending that river would be likely to overtake them ; and even if it did, of what advantage could it be to them? " If Dr. King and his party, in their single canoe, did fall in with Sir John Franklin and his party on the west coast of North Somerset, how does he propose to assist them ? he would barely have sufficient provision for his own party, and would more probably be in a condition to require rather than afford relief. He could only tell them what Sir John Franklin already knows, from former experience, far better than Dr. King, that it would be impossible for so large a party, or indeed any party not previously provided, to travel across the bar- ren grounds to any of the Hudson's Bay Settlements." " All that has been done by the way of search since February, 1848, tends," persists Dr. King, " to draw attention closer and closer to the western land of ISTorth Somerset, as the position of Sir John Franklin, and to the Great Fish (or Back) River, as the high road to reach it." Dr. King has twice proposed to the Admiralty to proceed on the search by this route. "It would," he states, " be the happiest moment of my life (and my delight at being selected from a long list of volunteers, for the relief of Sir John Boss, was very great) if their lordships would allow me to go by^m,y old route, the Great Fish Biver, to attempt to save human life a sec- ond time on the shores of the Bolar Sea. What I did in search of Sir John Boss is the best earnest of what I could do in search of Sir John Franklin." A meeting of those officers and gentlemen most con- versant with arctic voyages was convened by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the ITth of January, 184-9, at which the following were present : — Bear- Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, K. C. B., Captain Sir W. E. Parry, B. N., Captain Sir George Back, B. OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 227 X., Captain Sir E. Belcher, K. ^N"., Colonel Sabine, E. A., and the Rev. Dr. Scoresby. A very pretty painting, containing portraits of all the principal arctic voyagers in consultation on these mo- mentous matters, has been made by Mr. Pearse, artist, of 53, Berners Street, Oxford Street, which is well worthy of a visit. The beautiful Arctic Panorama of Mr. Burford, in Leicester Square, will also give a graphic idea of the scenery and appearance of the icy regions ; the whole being designed from authentic sketches by Lieut. Browne, now of the Pesolute, and who was out in the Enterprise in her trip in 1848, and also with Sir James Ross in his antarctic voyage. The expedition under Sir James Boss having re- turned unsuccessful, other measures of relief were now determined on, and the opinions of the leading officers again taken. Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort, in his report to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, on l!^ovember 24:th, 1849, observes : — " There are four ways only in which it is likely that the Erebus and Terror would have been lost — by fire, by sunken rocks, by storm, or by being crushed be- tween two fields of ice. Both vessels would scarcely have taken fire together ; if one of them had struck on a rock the other would have avoided the danger. Storms in those narrow seas, encumbered with ice, raise no swell, and could produce no such disaster ; and there- fore, by the fourth cause alone could the two vessels have been at once destroyed ; and even in that case the crews would have escaped upon the ice (as happens every year to the whalers ;) they would have saved their loose boats, and reached some part of the American shores. As no traces of any such event have been found on any part of those shores, it may therefore be safely affirmed that one ship at least, and both the crews, are still in existence ; and therefore the point where they now are is the great matter for consideration. "Their orders would have carried them toward Mel- ville Island, and then out to the westward, where it is 228 PEOQEESS 'OF AECTIC DISCOVERl therefore probable that they are entangle^' among islands and ice. For should they have been arrested at some intermediate place, for instance, Cape Walker, or at one of the northern chain of islands, they wonld, undoubtedly, in the course of the three following years, have contrived some method of sending notices of theii position to the shores of J^orth Somerset or to Barrow'8 Strait. "If they had reached much to the southward of Bank's Land, they would surely have communicated with the tribes on Mackenzie River ; and if, failing to get to the westward or southward, they had returned with the intention of penetrating through Wellington Channel, they would have detached parties on the ice toward Barrow's Strait, in order to have deposited statements of their intentions. " The general conclusion, therefore, remains, that they are still locked up in the Archipelago to the westward of Melville Island. Now, it is well known that the state of the weather alternates between the opposite sides of Northern America, being mild on the one when rigorous on the other ; and accordingly, during the two last years, which have been unusually severe in Baffin's Bay, the United States whalers were successfully trav- ersing the Polar Sea to the northward of Behring's Straits. The same severe weather may possibly prevail on the eastern side during the summer of 1850, and if so, it is obvious that an attempt should be now made by the western opening, and not merely to receive the two ships, if they should be met coming out (as for- merly,) but to advance in the direction of Melville Island, resolutely entering the ice, and employing every possible expedient by sledging parties, by reconnoitering balloons, and by blasting the ice, to communicate with them. "These vessels should be intrepidly commanded, effectively manned, and supplied with the best means for traveling across the ice to the English or to the Russian settlements, as it will be of the greatest impor- tance to be informed of what progr-^ss the expedition OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. has made; and for this purpose likewise the Plover will be of material service, lying at some advanced point near Icy Cape, and ready to receive intelligence, and to convey it to Petropanlski or to Panama. "These vessels should enter Behring's Straits before the first of August, and therefore every effort should be now made to dispatch them from England before Christmas. They might water at the Falkland Islands, and again at the Sandwich Islands, where they would be ready to receive additional instructions via Panama, by one of the Pacific steamers, and by which vessel they might be pushed on some little distance to the northward. " It seems to me likely that the ships have been push- ing on, summer after summer, in the direction of Behr- ing's Straits, and are detained somewhere in the space southwestward of Banks' Land. On the other hand, should they, after the first or second summer, have been unsuccessful in that direction, they may have attempted to proceed to the northward, either through Wellington Channel, or through some other of the openings among the same group of islands. I do not myself attach any superior importance to Wellington Channel as regards the northwest passage, but I understand that Sir John Franklin did, and that he strongly expressed to Lord Haddington his intention of attempting that route, if he should fail in effecting the more direct passage to the westward. "The ships having been fully victualed for three years, the resources may, by due precautions, have been extended to four years for the whole crews ; but it has occurred to me, since I had the honor of confer- ring with their lordships, that, if their numbers have been gradually diminished to any considerable extent by death, (a contingency which is but too probable, con- sidering their unparalleled detention in the ice,) the resources would be proportionably extended for the survivors, whom it might, therefore, be found expedient to transfer to one of the ships, wdth all the remaining stores, and with that one ship to continue the endeavor 230 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. to piish westward, or to retnrn to the eastward, as cii-- cumstances might render expedient ; in that case, the necessity for quitting both the ships in the past sum- mer might not improbably have been obviated. " Under these circumstances, which, it must be admit ted, amount to no more than mere conjecture, it seems to me expedient still to prosecute the search in both directions, namely, by way of Behring's Strait (to which I look with the strongest hope,) and also by that of Barrow's Strait. In the latter direction, it ought, I think, to be borne in mind, that the more than usual difficulties with which Sir James Ross had to contend, have, in reality, left us with very little more informa- tion than before he left England, and I cannot contem- plate without serious apprehension, leaving that opening without still further search in the ensuing spring, in case the missing crews have fallen back to the eastern coast of J^orth Somerset, where they would naturally look for supplies to be deposited for them, in addition to the chance of finding some of those left by the Fury. For the purpose of further pursuing the search by way of Barrow's Strait, perhaps two small vessels of 150 or 200 tons might suffice, but they must be square rigged for the navigation among the ice. Of course the object of such vessels would be nearly that which Sir James Koss's endeavors have failed to accomplish ; and the provisions, &c., left by that officer at Whaler Point, as well as any which may be deposited in that neigh- borhood by the ISTorth Star, would greatly add to the re- sources, facilitate the operations, and lessen the risk of any attempt made in that direction. " If, however, there be time to get ships to Behring's Straits by the first week in August,- 1850, which would perhaps require the aid of steam vessels to accomplish with any degree of certainty, I recommend that the Enterprise and Investigator be forthwith equipped and dispatched there, with instructions to push through the ice to the E. E". E. as far as possible in the ensuing sea- son, with the hope of meeting with at least one of the ships, or any of the parties which may have been OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 231 detached from them. This attempt has never yet been made by any ships, and I cling very strongly to the belief that such an effort might be attended with suc- cess in rescuing at least a portion of our people. " My reason for urging this upon their Loj-dships is, that the admirable instructions under vrhich the Plover, assisted by the Herald, is acting, embraces only the search of the coast line eastward from Icy Cape ; since the boats and baidars cannot effect any thing except by creeping along as opportunities offer, between the ice and the land, so that this plan of operations meets only the contingency of parties reaching, or nearly reaching, the land ; whereas the chance of rescue would, as it appears to me, be immensely increased by ships push- ing on, clear of the coast, toward Banks' Land and Melville Island, as far at least as might be practicable in the best five or six weeks of the season of 1850." Captain Parry says — "Although this is the first at- tempt ever made to enter the ice in this direction, with ships properly equipped for the purpose, there is no reason to anticipate any greater difficulties in this navi- fation than those encountered in other parts of the lorth Polar Sea ; and, even in the event of not suc- ceeding in reaching Banks' Land in the summer of the present year, it may be possible to make such progress as to afford a reasonable hope of effecting that object in the following season (1851.) Indeed it is possible that, from the weU known fact of the climate being more temperate in a given parallel of latitude, in going westward from the Mackenzie River, some comparative advantage may be derived in the navigation of this part of the Polar Sea. " It is of importance to the security of the ships and of their crews that they should winter in some harbor or bay not at a distance from land, where the ice might be in motion during the winter ; and it will be desira- ble, should no land be discovered fit for this purpose, in the space at present unexplored between Point Bar- row and Banks' Land, that endeavors should be made to reach the continent about the mouth of the Mackenzie 232 PBOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. Kiver, or further eastward, toward Liveri30ol Eay, wliere there is reason to siij^pose that sufficient shelter may be found, and in which neighborhood, it aj)pears, there is generally no ice to be seen from the shore foi about six wrecks in the months of August and Septem- ber. Sir John Franklin's narrative of his second jour ney, that of Messrs. Dease and Simpson, and the Admiralty Charts, will furnish the requisite hydro- graphical information relative to this line of coast, s€> far as it has been attained. " The utmost economy should be exercised in the use of provisions and fuel during the time the &hij)s are in winter quarters ; and if they should winter on or near the continent, there would probably be an opportunity of increasing their stock of provisions by means of game or fish, and likewise of fuel, by drift or other wood, to some considerable amount. " If the progress of the ships in 1850 has been con- siderable — for instance, as far as the meridian of 120° W. — the probability is, that the most practicable way of returning to England will be, still to push on in the same direction during the whole season of 1851, with a view to reach Barrow's Strait, and take advantage, if necessary, of the resoiu'ces left by Captain Sir James Koss at "Whaler Point, near Leopold Harbor; if not the same season, at least after a second mnter. If, on the other hand, small progress should have been made to the eastward at the close of the present summer, it might be prudent that when half the navigable season of 1851 shall have expired, no further attempts should be made in proceeding to the eastward, and that the remaining half of that season should be occupied in returning to the westward, with a view to escape from the ice by way of Behring's Straits after the winter of 1851-52, so as not to incur the risk of passing a third winter in the ice. " During the summer season, the most vigilant look- out should be kept from the mast-heads of both ships night and day, not only for the missing ships, but for iny detached parties belonging to them ; and during OPINIONS Aim SUGGESTIONS. 238 the few hours of darlaiess which prevail toward the close of each season's navigation, and also when in winter quarters, signals, bj fires, blue lights, rockets or guns, shoiild be made as the means of jDointing out the posi- tion of the ships to any detached parties belonging to the missing expedition. And in the spring before the ships can be released from the ice, searching parties might be sent out in various directions, either in boats or by land, to examine the neighboring coasts and inlets for any trace of the missing crews." Captain Sir George Back also comments (1st of De- cember, 1849,) on these intentions, in a letter to the Sec- retary of the Admiralty : — " You will be pleased. Sir, to impress upon my Lords Commissioners, that I wholly reject all and every idea of any attempts on the part of Sir John Franklin to send boats or detachments over the ice to any part of the main-land eastward of the Mackenzie River, because I can say from experience, that no toil-worn and ex- hausted party could have the least chance of existence by going there. " On the other hand, from my knowledge of Sir John Franklin, (having been three times on discovery to- gether,) I much doubt if he would quit his ship at all, except in a boat ; for any attempt to cross the ice a long distance on foot would be tempting death ; and it is too* laborious a task to sledge far over such an uneven sur- face as those regions generally present. That great mortality must have occurred, and that one ship, as Sir E. Beaufort hints at, may be lost, are greatly to be feared ; and, as on all former exj)editions, if the survivors are paralyzed by the depressing attacks of scurvy, it would then be impossible for them, however desirous they might be, to leave the ship, which must thus become their last most anxious abode. "If, however, open water should have allowed Sir John Franklin to have resorted to his boats, then I am persuaded he would make for either the Mackenzie River, or, which is far more likely, from the almost certainty he must have felt of finding provision. Capo Clarence and Fury Point. S34: PEOGRKSS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. " I am aware tliat tLe whole cuances of life in this painful case depend on food ; but when I reflect on Sir John Franklin's former extraordinary ^^I'cservatioii inider miseries and trials of the most severe description, liv^ing often on scraps of old leather and other refuse, I cannot desj.mn* of his finding the means to prolong exist- ence till aid be happily sent him." Dr. Sir John Richardson on the same day also sends in his opinion, as requested, on the proposed dispatcli of the Enterj^rise and Investigator to Behring's Strait ; " It seems to me to be very desirable that the western shores of the Archipelago of Parry's Islands should be searched in a high latitude in the manner projDOsed by th e hy d rographer. " If tlie proposed expedition succeeds in establishing its winter quarters among these islands, parties de- tached over the ice may travel to the eastward and southeastward, so as to cross the line of search which it is hoped Mr. Eae has been able to pursue in the i^resent summer, and thus to determine whether any traces of the missing ships exist in localities the most remote from Behring's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and from whence shipwrecked crews would find the greatest diffi- culty in traveling to any j)lace wliere they could hope to find relief. , " The climate of Arctic America improves in a sensi- ble manner with an increase of western longitude. On the Mackenzie, on the 135th meridian, the summer is warmer than in any district of the continent in the same parallel, and it is still finer, and the vegetation more luxuriant on the banks of the Yucon, on the 150th me- ridian. This superiority of climate leads me to infer, that ships well fortified against drift-ice, will find the navigation of the Arctic Seas more practicable in its western portion than it has been found to the eastward. This inference is supported by my own personal exjye- rience, as far as it goes. I met with no ice in .the month of August, on my late voyage, till I attained the 123d meridian, and which I was led, from that circumstance, to suppose coincided with the western limits of Parry's Archipelago. OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 235 ' The greater facility of navigating from tlie west has bt?en powerfully advocated by others on former occa- sions ; and the chief, perhaps the only reason why the attempt to penetrate the Polar Sea from that quarter has not been resumed since the time of Cook is, that the lengtlf of the previous voyage to Behring's Strait would considerably diminish the store of provisions ; but the facilities of obtaining supplies in the Pacific are now so augmented, that this objection has no longer the same force." Captain F. W. Beechey, writing from Cheltenham, on the 1st of December, 1849, says : — " I quite agree with Sir Francis Beaufort in what he has stated with regard to any casualties which Sir J. Franklin's ships may have sustained, and entirely agree with him and Sir Edward Parry, that the expedition is 2)robably hampered among the ice somewhere to the south westward of Melville Island ; but there is yet a possibility which does not appear to have been contem- plated, which is, that of the scurvy having spread among the crew, and incapacitated a large proj)ortion of them from making any exertion toward their release, or that the whole, in a debilitated state, may yet be clinging by their vessels, existing sparingly upon the provision which a large mortality may bave sj)un out, in the 1ioj)Q of relief " In the first case, that of the ships being hampered and the crews in good health, I think it certain that, a? the resources of the ships would be expended in May last. Sir John Franklin and his crew have abandoned the ships, and pushed forward for the nearest point where they might reasonably expect assistance, and which they could reasonably reach. "There are consequently three points to which it would be proper to direct attention, and as the case is urgent, every possible method of relief should be ener- getically pushed forward at as early a ]:»eriod as possi- ble, and directed to those points, which, I need scarcely say, are Barrow's Strait, Behring's Strait, and the northern coast of America. 236 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. " Of the measures which can be resorted to on tht northern coast of America, the officers who have ha(J experience there, and the Hudson's Bay Company, will be able to judge ; but I am of opinion that nothing should be neglected in that quarter ; for it seems to me almost certain that Sir John Franklin and his crew, if able to travel, have abandoned their ships and made for the continent ; and if they have not succeeded in gaining the Hudson's Bay outposts, they have been overtaken by winter before they could accomplish their purpose. " Lastly as to the opinion which naturally forces itself upon us, as to the utility of the sending relief to per- sons whose means of subsistence will have failed them more than a year by the time the relief could reach them, I would observe, that a prudent reduction of the allowance may have been timely made to meet an emergency, or great mortality may have enabled the survivors to subsist up to the time required, or it may be that the crews have just missed reaching the points visited by our parties last year before they quitted them, and in the one case may now be subsisting on the sup- plies at Leopold Island, or be housed in eastward of Point Barrow, sustained by depots which have been fallen in with, or by the native supplies ; so that under all the circumstances, I do not consider their condition so utterly hopeless that we should give up the expectation of yet being able to render them a timely assistance. " The endeavors to push forward might be continued until the 30th of August, at latest, at which time, if tht ships be not near some land where they can conven iently pass a winter, they must direct their course for the main-land, and seek a secure harbor in which they could remain. And on no account should they risk a winter in the pack, in consequence of the tides and shallow water lying off the coast. " Should the expedition reach Herschel Island, or any other place of refuge on the coast near the mouth of the Mackenzie or Colville Rivers, endeavors should be made to communicate information of the ships' posi- OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 237 tioa and snmmer's proceedings througli the Hudson's Bay Company or Russian settlements, and by means of interpreters ; and no opportunity should be omitted of gaming Irom the natives information of the missing ressels, as well as of any boat expeditions that may have ^one forward, as well as of the party under Dr. Rae. " If nothing should be heard of Sir John Franklin in 1850, parties of observation should be sent forward in the spring to intercept the route the ship would have pursued, and in other useful directions between winter quarters and Melville Island ; taking especial care that they return to the ship before the time of liberation of the ships arrives, which greatly depends upon their locality. " Then, on the breaking up of the ice, should any favorable appearance of the ice present itself, the expe- dition might be left free to take advantage of such a prospect, or to return round Point Barrow ; making it imperative, however, either to insure their return, so far as human foresight may be exercised, or the cer- tainty of their reaching Melville Island at the close of that season, and so securing their return to England in 1852. " K, after all, any unforeseen event should detain the ships beyond the period contemplated above, every exertion should be used, by means of boats and in- terpreters, to communicate with the Mackenzie ; and should any casualty render it necessary to abandon the vessels, it should be borne in mind that the reserve-ship will remain at her quarters until the autumn of 1853, unless she hears of the safety of the ships and boats in other directions ; while in the other quarter. Fort Macpherson, at the entrance of the Mackenzie, may be relied upon as an asylum. "The Plover, or reserve-ship, should be provided with three years' provisions for her own crew, and for contingencies besides. She should be placed as near as possible to Point Barrow, and provided with inter- preters, and the means of offering rewards for infor- mation; and she should remain at her quarters so long 238 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. as there can be any occasion for her presence in („ e Arctic Seas ; or, if she does not hear any thing oi t^ie expedition nnder Captain CoUinson, as long as her provisions will last." Sir John Eichardson offers the following advice for this expedition : — " If," he says, " it shonld winter near the mouth of the Yucan or Colville, that river may be ascended in a boat in the month of June, be- fore the sea ice begins to give way. The river varies in width from a mile ana a half to two miles, and flows through a rich, well-wooded valley, abounding in moose deer, and having a comparatively mild climate. A Russian trading post has been built on it, at the dis tance of three or four days' voyage from the sea, with the current ; but as the current is strong, from nine to twelve days must be allowed for its ascent, with the tracking line. It would be unsafe to rely upon receiv- ing a supply of provisions at the Eussian post, as it is not likely that any stock beyond what is necessary for their own use is laid up by the traders ; and the moose deer being a very shy animal, is not easily shot by an unpracticed hunter ; but the reindeer abound on the neighboring hills, and are much more approachable. The white-fronted goose also breeds in vast flocks in that district of the country, and may be killed in num- bers, without difiiculty, in the month of June. " If the expedition should winter within a reason- able distance of the Mackenzie, Captain Collinson may have it in his power to send dispatches to England by that route. "The river opens in June, and as soon as the ice ceases to drive, may be ascended in a boat, with a fair wind, under sail, or with a tracking line. " The lowest post at present occupied by the Hud- son's Bay Company on this river is Fort Gfood Hope. The site of this post has been changed several times, but it is at this time on the right bank of the river, in latitude 66° 16' IT., and is ten or eleven days' voyage from the sea. At Point Separation, opposite to the middle channel of the delta of the river, and on the OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 239 promontory which separates the Peel and the Mac- kenzie, there is a case of pemmican (80 lbs.) buried, ten feet distant from a tree, which has its middle branches lopped off, and is marked on the trunk w^ith a broad arrow in black paint. A fire was made over the pit in which the case is concealed, and the remains of the charcoal will point out the exact spot. This hoard was visited last year by a party from Fort Macpher- 6on, Peel's River, when all was safe. "Eight bags of pemmican, weighing 90 lbs. each, were deposited at Fort Good Hope in 1848, and would remain there last summer for the use of any boat parties that might ascend the river in 1849 ; but it is probable that part, or the whole, may have been used by the Company by next year. "A boat party should be furnished with a small seine and a short herring net, by the use of which a good supply of fish may often be procured in the eddies or sandy bays of the Mackenzie. They should also be provided with a good supply of buck-shot, swan- shot, duck-shot, and gunpowder. The Loucheux and Hare Indians will readily give such provisions as they may happen to have, in exchange for ammunition. They will expect to receive tobacco gratuitously, as they are accustomed to do from the traders. "The Mackenzie is the only water-way by which any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts can be reached from the Arctic Sea. There is a post on the Peel River which enters the delta of the Mackenzie, but no supplies can be procured there. To the east- ward of the Mackenzie no ship-party would have a chance of reaching a trading post, the nearest to the sea being Fort Resolution, on Great Slave Lake, situ- ated on the 61st parallel of latitude, and the interven- ing hilly country, intersected by numerous lakes and rapid rivers, could not be crossed by such a party ii less than an entire summer, even could they depenu on their guns for a supply of food. ISTeither would be advisable for a party from the ships to attempt to reach the posts on the Mackenzie by way of the Cop- 24:0 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. permine River and Fort Confidence; as, in the ab- sence of means of transport across Great Bear Lake, the journey round that irregular sheet of water, would be long and hazardous. Bear Lake River is more than fifty miles long, and Fort Korman, the nearest post on the Mackenzie, is thirty miles above its mouth. Mr. Rae was instructed to engage an Indian family or two to hunt on the tract of country between the Cop- permine and Great Bear Lake in the summer of 1850 ; but no gre|,t reliance can be placed on these Indians remaining long there, as they desert their hunting quarters on very slight alarms, being in continual dread of enemies, real or imaginary. " A case of pemmican was buried on the summit ot the bank, about four or five miles from the summit of Cape Bathurst, the spot being marked by a pole planted in the earth, and the exact locality of the deposit by a firfe of drift-wood, much of which would remain unconsumed. " Another case was deposited in the cleft of a rock, on a small battlemented cliff, which forms the extreme part of Cape Parry. The case was covered with loose stones ; and a pile of stones painted red and white, was erected immediately in front of it. This cliff re- sembles a cocked-hat in some points of view, and pro- jects like a tongue from the base of a rounded hiU, which is 500 or 600 feet high. " Several cases of pemmican were left exposed on a ledge of rocks in latitude 68° 35' N., opposite Lambert Island, in Dolphin and Union Strait, and in a bay to the westward of Cape Krusenstern, a small boat and ten pieces of pemmican were deposited under a high cliff, above high water mark, without concealment. The Esquimaux on this part of the coast are not nu- merous, and from the position of this hoard, it may escape discovery by them ; but I have every reason to believe that the locality has been visited by Mr. Rae in the past summer. A deposit of larger size, near Cape Kendall, has been more certainly visited by Mr. Rae." Captain Sir J. C. Ross writes from Haslar, 11th of February, 1850. OPINIONS Amy SUGGESTIONS. 241 ^* With respect to tlie probable position of tbe Erebus and Terror, I consider that it is hardly possible they can be anywhere to the eastward of Melville Island, or within 300 miles of Leopold Island, for if that were the case, they would assuredly, during the last spring, have made their way to that point, with the hope of receiving assistance from the whale-ships which, foi several years previous to the departure of that expedi- tion from England, had been in the habit of visiting Prince Regent Inlet in pursuit of whales ; and in that case they must have been met with, or marks of their encampments have been found by some of the numer- ous parties detached from the Enterprise and Investi- gator along the shores of that vicinity during the only period of 9ie season in which traveling is practicable in those regions, "It is probable, therefore, that during their first summer, which was remarkably favorable for the navi- gation of those seas, they have been enabled (in obedi- ence to their orders) to push the ships to the westward of Banks' land, and have there become involved in the heavy pack of ice which was observed from Melville Island always to be setting past its westernmost point in a southeast direction, and from which pack they may not have been able to extricate their ships. " From such a position, retreat to the eastward would, be next to impossible, while the journey to the Mac- kenzie River, of comparatively easy accomplishment, together with Sir John Franklin's knowledge of the resources in the way and of its practicability, would strengthen the belief that this measure will have been adopted by them during the last spring, "If this be assumed as the present position of the Erebus and Terror, it would manifestly be far more easy and safe to afford them relief by means of an ex- pedition enteriug Behring's Straits, than from any other direction, as it would not be necessary for the ships to depart so far from the coast of North America as to preclude their keeping up a regular communication with the Russian settlements on the River Colville, or 16 242 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. those of the Hudson's Bay Company near the month of the Mackenzie, while the whole space between any position in which the ships might winter, and Banks' Land conld be thoroughly examined by traveling par- ties early in the spring, or by boats or st6am launches at a more advanced period of the following season." Mr. W. Snov/, in a letter from 'New York, dated 7th of January, 1850, suggests a plan for a well organized expedition of as many men as could be fitted out from private funds. " For instance, let a party of 100 picked men, well disciplined and officered, as on board a ship, and accompanied with all the necessary food, scientific instruments, and every thing useful on such expeditions. proceed immediately, by the shortest and most avail- able routes, to the lands in the neighborhood of the un- explored regions. If possible, I would suggest that they should proceed first to Moose Fort, on the south ern part of Hudson's Bay, and thence by small craft to Chesterfield Inlet, or otherwise by land reach that quarter, so as to arrive there at the opening of summer. From this neighborhood let the party, minus ten men, be divided into three separate detachments, each with specific instructions to extend their researches in a northerly and northwesterly direction. The wutstern- most party to proceed as near as possible in a direct course to the easternmost limits of discovery yet made from Behring's Straits, and on no account to deviate from that course on the western side of it, bui^, if ne- cessary, to the eastward. Let the central part^ shape a course as near as possible to the position of the Mag- netic Pole ; and the easternmost division direct to Prince Eegent Inlet, or the westernmost point of dis- covery from the east, and not to deviate from that course easterly. Let each of these detachments be formed again into three divisions, each division thus consisting of ten men. Let the first division of each detachmeni pioneer the way, followed on the same track by tht second and the third, at stated intervals of time. Or. the route, let the pioneers, at every spot necessary, leav& distinguishing marks to denote the way, and also to OPINIONS AND SUGOESTIONS. 24:3 give information to either of the other two principal detachments as may bj chance fall into their track To second the efforts of the three detachments, let con Btant succors and other assistance be forwarded by way of Moose Fort, and through the ten men left at Chesterfield Inlet ; and should the object for which such an expedition was framed be happily accom- plished by the return of the lost voyagers, let messen- gers be forwarded with the news, as was done with Captain Back, in the case of Captain Ross. Let each of the extreme detachments, upon arriving at their re- spective destinations, and upon being joined by the whole of their body, proceed to form plans for uniting with the central party, and ascertaining the results already obtained by each by sending parties in that direction. Also, let a chosen number be sent out from each detachment as exploring parties, wherever deemed requisite ; and let no effort be wanted to make a search in every direction where there is a possibility of its proving successful. " If a public and more extensive expedition be set on foot, I would most respectfully draw attention to the following suggestions : — Let a land expedition be formed upon a similar plan, and with the same number of men, say 300 or more, as those fitted out for sea. Let this expedition be formed into three great divisions ; the one proceeding by the Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake, and following out Captain Back's discoveries ; the second, through the Churchill district ; or, with the third, according to the plan laid out for a private expe- dition alone ; only keeping the whole of their forces as much as possible bearing upon the points where success may be most likely attainable. " Each of these three great divisions to be subdivided and arranged also as in the former case. The expense of an expedition of this kind, with all the necessary outlay for provisions, &c., I do not think would be more than half what the same would cost if sent by sea ; but of this I am not a competent judge, having no definite means to make a comparison. But there is yet another, 244 PBOGEESS OF ARCTIC DloCOVEET. and, I cannot help conceiving, a more easy way of ob- viating all difficulty on this point, and of reducing the expense considerably. " It must be evident that the present position of the arctic voyagers is not very accessible, either by land or sea, else the distinguished leader at the head of the expedition would long ere this have tracked a route whereby the whole party, or at least some of them could return. " In such a case, therefore, the only way to reach them is by, if I may use the ex-pression, forcingr an ex- pedition on toward them ; I mean, by keeping it con- stantly upheld and pushing onward. There may be, and indeed there are, very great difficulties, and diffi- culties of such a nature that, I believe, they would themselves cause another great difficulty in the procur- ing of men. But, if I might make another bold sug- gestion, I would respectfully ask our government at home, why not employ picked men from convicted criminals, as is done in exploring expeditions in Aus- tralia ? Inducements might be held out to them ; and by proper care they would be made most serviceable auxiliaries. Generally speaking, men convicted of offenses are men possessed of almost inexhaustible mental resources ; and such men are the men who, with physical powers of endurance, are precisely those required. But this I speak of, merely, if sufficient free men could not be found, and if economy is studied." Mr. John McLean, who has been twenty-five years a partner and officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, and has published an interesting narrative of his adven- tures and experience, writing to Lady Franklin from Canada West, in January, 1850, suggests the following very excellent plan as likely to produce some intelli- gence, if not to lead to a discovery of the party. " Let a small schooner of some thirty or forty tons burden, built with a view to draw as little water as possible, and as strong as wood and iron could make her, be dispatched from England in company with the Hudson's Bay ships. This vessel would, immediately OPINIONS AND SFGOESTIONS. 245 on arriving at York Factory, proceed to the Strait termed Sir Thomas Eoe's Welcome, which divides Southampton Island from the main-land ; then direct her course to Wager River, and proceed onward until interrupted bj insurmountable obstacles. The party being safely landed, I would recommend their remain- ing stationary until winter traveling became practicable, when they should set out for the shores of the Arctic Sea, which, by a reference to Arrowsmith's map, ap- pears to be only some sixty or seventy miles distant ; then dividing in two parties or divisions, the one would proceed east, the other west ; and I think means could be devised of exploring 250 or 300 miles in either direction ; and here a very important question pre- sents itself, — how and by what means is this enterprise to be accomplished ? " In the first place, the services of Esquimaux would be indispensable, for the twofold reason, that no reliable information can be obtained from the natives without their aid, and that they alone properly understand the art of preparing snow-houses, or ' igloes,' for winter en- campment, the only lodging which the desolate wastes of the arctic regions afford. Esquimaux understanding the English language sufficiently well to answer our purpose, frequent the Hudson's Bay Company's post in Labrador, some of whom might be induced, (I should fain hope,) to engage for the expedition , or probably the ' half-breed ' natives might do so more readily than the aborigines. They should, if possible, be strong, active men, and good marksmen, and not less than four in number. Failing in the attempt to procure the na- tives of Labrador, then I should think Esquimaux might be obtained at Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; the two who accompanied Sir John in his first land expedi- tion were from this quarter." An expedition of this kind is to be sent out by Lady Franklin this spring under the charge of Mr. Kennedy. There are various ways of accomplishing this object, the choice of which must mainly depend on the views and wishes of the officer who may undertake the com- 24:6 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. mand. Besides the nortliern route, or'tliat by Regent Inlet, it is possible to reach Sir James Ross and Simp- son's Straits from the south, entering Hudson's Bay, and passing np the "Welcome to Rae Isthmus, or again by entering Chesterfield or Wager Inlet, and gaining the coast by Back's or the Great Fish River. By either of these routes a great part of the explora- tion must be made in boats or on foot. In every case the main points to be searched are James Ross's Strait and Simpson's Strait, if indeed there be a passage in that direction, as laid down in Sir John Franklin's charts, though contradicted by Mr. Rae, and considered still doubtful by some arctic navigators. The following extract from the Geographical Jour- nal shows the opinion of Franklin upon the search of this quarter. Dr. Richardson says,^ — " ISTo better plan can be proposed than the one suggested by Sir John Franklin, of sending a vessel to Wager River, and car- rying on the survey from thence in boats." Sir John Franklin observes,-!- — " The Doctor alludes in his letter to some propositions which he knew I had made in the year 1828, at the command of his present Majesty-, v^Williamiy.,) on the same subject, and partic- ularly to th^; suggestion as to proceeding from Repulse or Wager Baj. ^ * * A recent careful reading of all the narratives connected with the surveys of the Wager and Repulse Bays, and of Sir Edward Parry's Voyage, together with the information obtained from the Esqui- maux by Sir Edward Parry, Sir John Ross, and Cap- tain Back, confirm me in opinion that a successful de- lineation of the coast east of Point Turnagain to the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, would be best attained by an expedition proceeding from Wager Bay, the northern parts of which cannot, I think, be farther dis- tant than forty miles from the sea, if the information received by the above-mentioned officers can be de- pended on." Dr. McCormick particularly draws attention to Jones* and Smith's Sounds, recommending a careful examin * Journal of Geographical Society, vol. vi. p. 40. t Ibid. p. 43. OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 247 ation of these to their probable termination in the Polar Sea : — " Jones' Sound, with the "Wellington Channel on the west, may be found to form an island of the land called * ]N"orth Devon.' All prominent positions on both sides of these Sounds should be searched for flag staves and piles of stones, under whcih copper cylinders or bot- tles may have been deposited, containing accounts of the proceedings of the missing expedition ; and if suc- cessful in getting upon its track, a clue would be ob- tained to the fate of our gallant countrymen," The Wellington Channel he considers affords one of the best chances of crossing the track of the missing expedition. To carry out this plan efficiently, he recommended that a boat should be dropped, by the ship conveying the searching party out, at the entrance to the Welling- ton Channel in Barrow's Strait ; from this point one or both sides of that channel and the northern shores of the Parry Islands might be explored as far west as the season would permit of. But should the ship be en- abled to look into Jones' Sound, on her way to Lancas- ter Sound, and find that opening free from ice, an attempt might be made by the Boat Expedition to push through it into the "Wellington Channel. In the event, however, of its proving to be merely an inlet, which a short delay would be sufficient to decide, the ship might perhaps be in readiness to pick up the boat on its re- turn, for conveyance to its ultimate destination through Lancaster Sound ; or as a precaution against any un- foreseen separation from the ship, a depot of provisions should be left at the entrance to Jones' Sound for the boat to complete its supplies from, after accomplishing the exploration of this inlet, and to afford the means, if compelled from an advanced period of the season or other adverse circumstances, of reaching some place of refuge, either on board a whaler or some one of the depots of provisions on the southern shores of Barrow's Strait. 248 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. Mr. Penny, in charge of the Lady Fi'anMin, before Jailing, observed : — " If an early passage be obtained, I would examine Tones' Sound, as I have generally found in all my early voyages clear water at the mouth of that sound, and ♦•Jiere is a probability that an earlier ]3assage by this route might be found into "Wellington Strait, which out- let ought by all means to be thoroughly examined at the earliest opportunity, since, if Sir J. Franklin had taken that route, with the hope of finding a passage westward, to the north of the Parry and Melville Islands, he may be beyond the power of helping him- self 'No trace of the expedition, or practical commu- nication with Wellington. Strait, being obtained in this quarter, I would proceed in time to take advantage of the first opening of the ice in Lancaster Sound, with the view of proceeding to the west and entering Wel- lington Strait, or, if this should not be practicable, of proceeding farther westward to Cape Walker, and be- yond, on one or other of which places Sir John Frank- lin will probably have left some notices of his course." The government has seen the urgent necessity of causing the Wellington Channel to be carefully exam- ined; imperative orders were sent to Sir James Koss to search it, but he was drifted out of Barrow's Strait against his will, before he received those orders by the North Star. I have already stated that Sir John Franklin's in- structions directed him to try the first favorable open- ing to the southwest after passing Cape Walker ; and failing in that, to try the Wellington Channel. Every ofiicer in the British Service, as a matter of course, follows his instructions, as far as they are compatible with the exigencies of the case, be it what it may, nor ever deviates from them without good and justifiable cause. If, then, Sir John Franklin failed in finding an opening to the southwest of Cape Walker it is reason- able to suppose he obeyed his instructions, and tried the Wellington Channel. The second probability in favor of this locality is, that Sir John Franklin ex* ^.i'lNIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 249 pressed o many of his friends a favorable opinion of the Wellington Channel, and, which is of far more consequence, intimated his opinion officially, and be- fore the expedition was determined upon, that this strait seemed to offer the best chance of success. Moreover, Capt. Fitzjames, his immediate second in command in the Erebus, was strongly in favor of the Wellington Channel, and always so expressed himself. See his letter, before quoted, to Sir John Barrow, p. 203. Who can doubt that the opinion of Capt. Fitzjames, a man of superior mind, beloved by all who knew him, and in the service " the observed of all observers," would have great weight with Sir John Franklin, even if Sir John had not been himself predisposed to listen to him. What adds confirmation to these views is, that in 1840, a few years prior to the starting of the expedition, Col. Sabine published the deeply interesting " ITarrative of Baron Wrangel's Expedition to the Polar Sea, under- taken between the years 1820 and 1823," and in his pre- face the translator points to the Wellington Channel as the most likely course for the successful accomplishment of the northwest passage. "Setting aside," he says, " the possibility of the existence of unknown land, the probability of an open sea existing to the north of the Parry islands, and communicating with Behring Strait, appears to rest ^n strict analogical reasoning." And again he adds, " all the attempts to effect the northwest passage, since Barrow's Strait was first passed in 1819, have consisted in an endeavor to force a vessel by one route or another through this land-locked and ice-encum- bered portion of the Polar Ocean." 'No examination has made known what may be the state of the sea to the north of the Parry Islands; whether similar impediments may there present them- selves to navigation, or whether a sea may not there exist offering no difficulties whatever of the kind, as M. Yon Wrangel has shown to be the case to the north of the Siberian Islands, and as by strict analogy we should be justified in expecting. Colonel Sabine is an officer of great scientific expe- 250 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. rience, and from his having made several polar voyages, he has devoted great attention to all that relates to that quarter. He was in constant communication with Sir John Franklin when the expedition was fitting out, and it is but reasonable to suppose that he would be some- what guided by his opinion. "We have, then, the opinions of Franklin himself, Colonel Sabine, and Captain Fitzjames, all bearing on this point, and we must remember that Parry, who dis- covered and named this channel, saw nothing when passing and re-passing it, but a clear open sea to the northward. Lieut. S. Osborn, in a paper dated the 4th of January, 1850, makes the following suggestions : — "General opinion places the lost expedition to the west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Mel- ville Island. The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be seen that nowhere else does the American conti- nent approach so near to the supposed position of Frank- lin's expedition. " Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst !>[. 41° 49', E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the summer season a portion of this distance may be trav- ersed in boats. " Dr. Kichardson confirms previous reports of the ice being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie Biver to Cape Bathurst, and informs us that the Esquimaux had seen 'no ice to seaward for two moons.' '' Every mile traversed northward by a party from Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in which traces of Franklin may be expected. It is advis- able that such a second party be dispatched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the prosecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the supposed channel between Wollas- ton and Victoria Lands may in no way be interfered with, by his attention being called to the westward." In March, 1848, the Admiralty announced their inten- tion of rewarding the crews of any whaling ships that brought accurate information of the missing expedition^ OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 251 with the sum of 100 guineas or more, according to cir- cumstances. Lady Franklin also about the same time offered rewards of 20001. and 3000Z., to be distributed among the owner, officers, and crew discovering and affording relief to her husband, or making extraordi- nary exertions for the above object, and, if required, bringing Sir John Franklin and his party to England. In March, 1850, the following further rewards were offer-ed by the British government to persons of any country : — 1st. To any party or person who in the judgment of the Board of Admiralty, shall discover and effectually relieve the crews of H. M. ships Erebus and Terror, the sum of 20,000Z., or, 2d. To any party or parties, &c., who shall discover and effectually relieve any portion of the crews, or shall convey such intelligence as shall lead to the relief of any of the crew, the sum of 10,000Z. 3d. To any party or parties who shall by virtue of his or their efforts, first succeed, in ascertaining their fate, 10,000?. In a dispatch from Sir George Simpson to Mr. Rae, dated Lachine, the 21st of January, 1850, he says : — " If they be still alive, I feel satisfied that every effort it may be in the power of man to make to succor them will be exerted by yourself and the Company's officers In Mackenzie Eiver ; but should your late search have unfortunately ended in disappointment, it is the desire of the Company that you renew your explorations next summer, if possible. " By the annexed correspondence you will observe that the opinion in England appears to be that our explora- tions ought to be more particularly directed to that por- tion of the E'orthern Sea lying between Cape AYalker on the east, Melville Island and Banks' Land to the north, and the continental shore or the Victoria Islands to the south. "As these limits are believed to embrace the course that would have been pursued by Sir John Franklii?, Cape Walker being one of the points he was particu- 252 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. larly instructed to make for, you will therefore be pleased, immediately on the receipt of this letter, to fit out another exploring party, to proceed in the direction above indicated, but varying the route that may have been followed last summer, which party, besides their own examination of the coast and islands, should be instructed to offer liberal rewards to the Esquimaux to search for some vestiges of the missing expedition, and similar rewards should be offered to the Indians inhab iting near the coast and Peel's River, and the half-bred hunters of Mackenzie Biver, the latter being, perhaps, more energetic than the former ; assuring them that whoever may procure authentic intelligence wiU be largely rewarded. " Simultaneously with the expedition to proceed to> ward Cape "Walker, one or two small parties should be dispatched to the westward of the Mackenzie, in the direction of Point Barrow, one of which might pass over to the Youcon River, and desc^iding that stream to the sea, carry on their explorations in that quarter, while the other, going down the Mackenzie, might trace the coast thence toward the Youcon. And these parties must also be instructed to offer rewards to the natives to prosecute the search in all directions. " By these means there is reason to believe that in the course of one year so minute a search may be made of the coast and the islands, that in the event of the expedition having passed in that direction, some trace of their progress would certainly be discovered. " From your experience in arctic discovery, and pe- culiar qualifications for such an undertaking, I am in hopes you may be enabled yourself to assume the command of the party to proceed to the northward ; and, as leaders of the two parties to explore the coast to the westward of the Mackenzie, you will have to select such officers of the Company's service within the district as may appear best qualified for the duty : Mr. Murray, I think, would be a very fit man for one of the leaders, and if one party be sent by way of the Youcon, he might take charge of it. In the event of OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 253 your going on this expedition, you will be pleased to make over the charge of the district to Chief Trader Bell during your absence. " In case you may be short-handed, I have by this conveyance instructed Chief Factor Ballenden to en- gage in Red River ten choice men, accustomed to boat- ing, and well fitted for such a duty as will be required of them ; and if there be a chance of their reaching Mackenzie River, or even Athabasca, before the break- ing up of the ice, to forward them immediately. " Should the season, however, be too far advanced to enable them to accomplish the journey by winter traveling, Mr. Ballenden is directed to increase the party to fourteen men, with a guide to be dispatched from Red River immediately after the opening of the navigation, in two boats, laden with provisions and flour, and a few bales of clothing, in order to meet, in some degree, the heavy drain that will be occasioned on our resources in provisions and necessary supplies in Mackenzie River. The leader of this party from Red River may, perhaps, be qualified to act as the conductor of one of the parties to examine the coast to the westward." On the 5th of February, 1850, another consultation took place at the Admiralty among those officers most experienced in these matters, and their opinions in writing were solicited. It is important, therefore, to submit these as fully as possible to the consideration of the reader. The first is the report of the hydrographer of the Admiralty, dated the 29th of January, 1850 : — " Memorandum "by Bear- Admiral Sir Francis Beau- fort, K. C. B. "The Behring's Strait expedition being at length ,tairly off, it appears to me to be a duty to submit to their Lordships that no time should now be lost in equipping another set of vessels to renew the search on the opposite side, through Baffin's Bay ; and this being the fifth year that the Erebus and Terror have 254 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. been absent, and probably reduced to only casual sup- plies of food and fuel, it may be assumed that this search should be so complete and effectual as to leave unexamined no place in which, by any of the supposi- tions that have been put forward, it is at all likely they may be found. '' Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders with levity, and therefore his first attempt was un- doubtedly made in the direction of Melville Island, and not to the westward. If foiled in that attempt, he naturally hauled to the southward, and using Banks' Land as a barrier against the northern ice, he would try to make westing under its lee. Thirdly, if both of these roads were found closed against his advance, he perhaps availed himself of one of the four passages between the Parry Islands, including the Wellington Channel. Or, lastly, he may have returned to Baffin's Bay and taken the inviting opening of Jones' Sound. '' All those four tracks must therefore be diligently examined before the search, can be called complete, and the only method of rendering that examination prompt and efficient will be through the medium of steam ; while only useless expense and reiterated diS' appointment will attend the best efforts of sailing ves- sels, leaving the lingering survivors of the lost ships^, as well as their relatives in England, in equal despair. Had Sir James Ross been in a steam vessel, he would not have been surrounded with ice and swept out of the Strait, but by shooting under the protection of Leo- Eold Island, he would have waited there till that fatal eld had passed to the eastward, and he then would have found a perfectly open sea up to Melville Island. "The best application of steam to ice-going vessels would be Ericson's screw ; but the screw or paddles of any of our moderate-sized vessels might be made tc elevate with facility. Vessels so fitted would not re- quire to be fortified in an extraordinary degree, not more than common whalers. From the log-like quies- cence with which a sailing vessel must await the crush of two approaching floes, they must be as strong as OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 255 wood and. iron can make them ; but the steamer slips out of the reach of the collision, waits till the shock is past, and then profiting by their mutual recoil, darts at once through the transient opening. "Two such vessels, and each of them attended by two tenders laden with coals and provisions, would be sufficient for the main lines of search. Every promi- nent point of land where notices might have been left, would be visited, details of their own proceedings would be deposited, and each of the tenders would be left in proper positions, as points of rendezvous on which to fall back. "Besides these two branches of the expedition, it would be well to allow the whaling captain (Penny,) to carry out his proposed undertaking. His local knowl- edge, his thorough acquaintance with all the mysteries of the ice navigation, and his well known skill and resources, seem to point him out as a most valuable auxiliary. " But whatever vessels may be chosen for this service, I would beseech their lordships to expedite them ; all our attempts have been deferred too long ; and there is now reason to believe that very early in the season, in May or even in April, Baffin's Bay may be crossed be- fore the accumulated ice of winter spreads over its surface. If they arrive rather too soon, they may very advantageously await the proper moment in some of *the Greenland harbors, preparing themselves for the coming effi)rts and struggles, and procuring Esquimaux interpreters. " In order to press every resource into the service of this noble enterprise, the vessels should be extensively furnished with means for blasting and splitting the ice, perhaps circular saws might be adapted to the steamers, a launch to each party, with a small rotary engine, sledges for the shore, and light boats with sledge bear- ings for broken ice-fields, balloons for the distribution of advertisements, and kites for the explosion of lofty fire-balls. And, lastly, they should have vigorous and numerous crews, so that when detachments are away, 256 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. other operations should not be intermitted for want of physical strength. " As the council of the Royal Society, some time ago, thought proper to remind their lordships of the propriety of instituting this search, it would be fair now to call on that learned body for all the advice and suggestions, that science and philosophy can contribute toward the accomplishment of the great object on which the eyes of all England and indeed of all the world, are now entirely fixed." Captain Beechey, writing to the Secretary of the Ad- miralty, Tth of February, 1850, says : — " The urgent nature of the case alone can justify the use of ordinary steamers in an icy sea, and great pru- dence and judgment will be required on the part of their commanders, to avoid being disabled by collision and pressure. " I would also add, as an exception, that I think Leo- pold Island and Cape Walker, if possible, should both be examined, prior to any attempt being made to pene- trate in other directions from Barrow's Strait, and that the bottom of Eegent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands, should not be left unexamined. In the memorandum submitted to their lordships on the ITth of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of importance ; and I am still of opinion, that, had Sir John Franklin aban- doned his vessels near the coast of America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred the probability of retaining the use of his boats until he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an over- land journey via the before-mentioned river ; it must be remembered, that at the time he sailed. Sir George Back's discovery had rendered it very probable that Boothia was an island. " An objection to the necessity of this search seems to be, that had Sir John Franklin taken that route, he would have reached Fury Beach already. However, I cannot but think there will yet be found some good grounds for the Esquimaux sketch, and that their mean- ing has been misunderstood ; and as Mr. M'Cormick is OPINIONS OF AECTIC ^OYAGEES. 257 an enterprising person, whose name has already been before their lordships, I would submit, whether a boat expedition from Leopold Depot, under his direction, would not satisfactorily set at rest all inquiry upon this, now the only quarter unpi'ovided for." Captain Sir W. E. Parry states : — "I am decidedly of opinion that the main search should be renewed in the direction of Melville Island and Banks' Land, including as a part of the plan the thorough examination of W ellington Strait and of the other similar openings between the islands of the group bearing my name. I entertain a growing conviction of the probability of the missing ships, or at least a con- siderable portion of the crews, being shut up at Mel ville Island, Banks' Land, or in that neighborhood, agreeing as I do with Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beau- fort, in his report read yesterday to the Board that ' Sir John Franklin is not a man to treat his orders v/ith levity,' which he would be justly chargeable with doing if he attached greater weight to any notions he might personally entertain than to the Admiralty instructions, which he well knew to be founded on the experience of former attempts, and on the best information which could then be obtained on the subject. For these rea- sons I can scarcely doubt that he would employ at least two seasons, those of 1845 and 1846, in an unremitting attempt to penetrate directly westward or southwestward to Behring's Strait. " Supposing this conjecture to be correct, nothing can be more likely than that Sir John Franklin's ships, hav- ing penetrated in seasons of ordinary temperature a considerable distance in that direction, nave been locked up by successive seasons of extraordinary rigor, thus baffling the efforts of their weakened crews to escape from the ice in either of the two directions by Behring's or Barrow's Straits. " And here I cannot but add, that my own conviction of this probability — for it is only with probabilities that we have to deal — has been greatly strengthened by a letter I have lately received from Col. Sabine, of 17 258 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. the Royal Artillery, of which I had the honor to sub- mit a copy to Sir Francis Baring. Colonel Sabine having accompanied two successive expeditions to Baf- fin's Bay, including that under my command which reached Melville Island, I consider his views to be well worthy of their lordships' attention on this part of the subject. "It must be admitted, however, that considerable weight is due to the conjecture which has been offered by persons capable of forming a sound judgment, that having failed, as I did, in the attempt to penetrate west- ward. Sir John Franklin might deem it prudent to re- trace his steps, and was enabled to do so, in order to try a more northern route, either through Wellington Strait or some other of those openings between the Parry Islands to which I have already referred. And this idea receives no small importance from the fact, (said to be beyond a doubt,) of Sir John Franklin having, before his departure, expressed such an intention in case of failing to the westward. " I cannot, therefore, consider the intended search to be complete without making the examination of Wel- lington Strait and its adjacent openings a distinct part of the plan, to be performed by one portion of the vessels which I shall presently propose for the main expedition. " Much stress has likewise been laid, and I think not altogether without reason, on the propriety of search- ing Jones' and Smith's Sounds in the northwest parts of Baffin's Bay. Considerable interest has lately been at- tached to Jones' Sound, from the fact of its having been recently navigated by at least one enterprising whaler, and found to be of great width, free from ice, with a swell from the westward, and having no land visible from the mast-head in that direction. It seems more than probable, therefore, that it may be found to communi- cate with Wellington Strait ; so that if Sir John Frank- lin's ships have been detained anywhere to the north- ward of the Parry Islands, it would be by Jones' Sound that he would probably endeavor to effect his escape, OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 259 rather than by the less direct route of Barrow's Strait. I do not myself attach much importance to the idea of Sir John Franklin having so far retraced his steps as to come back through Lancaster Sound, and recom- mence his enterprise by entering Jones' Sound ; but the possibility of his attempting his escape through this fine opening, and the report, (though somewhat vague,) of a cairn of stones seen by one of the whalers on a headland within it, seems to me to render it highly expedient to set this question at rest by a search in this direction, including the examination of Smith's Sound also." I beg to cite next an extract from the letter of Dr. Sir John Kichardson to the Secretary of the Admiralty : — ^''Haslar Hospital^ Gosport^ ^th of February^ 1850. " With respect to the direction in which a successful search may be predicated with the most confidence, very various opinions have been put forth ; some have supposed either that the ships were lost before reaching Lancaster Sound, or that Sir John Franklin, finding an impassable barrier of ice in the entrance of Lancaster Sound, may have sought for a passage through Jones' Sound. I do not feel inclined to give much weight to either conjecture. "When we consider the strength of the Erebus and Terror, calculated to resist the strongest pressure to which ships navigating Bafiin's Bay have been known to be subject, in conjunction with the fact that, of the many whalers which have been crushed or abandoned since the commencement of the fishery, the crews, or at least the greater part of them, have, in almost every case, succeeded in reaching other ships, or the Danish settlements, we cannot believe that the two discovery ships, which were seen on the edge of the middle ice so early as the 26th of July, can have been so suddenly and totally overwhelmed as to preclude some one of the intelligent officers, whose minds were prepared for every emergency, with their select crews of men, experienced in the ice, from placing a boat on the ice or water, and thus carrying intelligence of the 260 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. disaster to one of the many whalers which remained for two months after that date in those seas, and this in the absence of any unusual catastrophe among the fishing vessels that season. " With respect to Jones' Sound, it is admitted by all who are intimately acquainted with Sir John Franklin, that his first endeavor would be to act up to the letter of his instructions, and that therefore he would not lightly abandon the attempt to pass Lancaster Sound. From the logs of the whalers year after year, we learn that when once they have succeeded in rounding the middle ice, they enter Lancaster Sound with facility : had Sir John Franklin, then, gained that Sound, and from the premises we appear to be fully justified in concluding that he did so, and had he afterward en- countered a compact field of ice, barring Barrow's Strait and "Wellington Sound, he would then, after be- ing convinced that he would lose the season in attempt ing to bore through it, have borne up for Jones' Sound, but not until he had erected a conspicuous landmark, and lodged a memorandum of his reason for deviating from his instructions. "The absence of such a signal-post in Lancaster Sound is an argument against the expedition having turned back from thence, and is, on the other hand, a strong support to the suspicion that Barrow's Strait was as open in 1845 as when Sir W. E. Parry first passed it in 1819 ; that, such being the case. Sir John Frank- lin, without delay and without landing, pushed on to Cape Walker, and that, subsequently, in endeavoring to penetrate to the southwest, he became involved in the drift ice, which, there is reason to believe, urged by the prevailing winds and the set of the flood tides, is carried toward Coronation Gulf, through channels more or less intricate. Should he have found no open- ing at Cape Walker, he would, of course, have sought one further to the west ; or, finding the southerly and westerly opening blocked by ice, he might have tried a northern passage. " In either case, the plan of search propounded by OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 261 Sir Francis Beaufort seems to provide against every contingency, especially when taken in conjunction with Captain Collinson's expedition, via Behring's Strait, and the boat parties from the Mackenzie. " I do not venture to offer an opinion on the strength or equipment of the vessels to be employed, or other merely nautical questions, further than by remarking, that the use of the small vessels, which forms part of Sir Francis Beaufort's scheme, is supported by the suc- cess of the early navigators with their very small craft, and the late gallant exploit of Mr. Shedden, in round- ing Icy Cape and Point Barrow, in the Nancy Dawson yacht. " And farther, with respect to the comparative merits of the paddles and screw in the arctic seas, I beg leave merely to observe, that as long as the screw is immersed in water it will continue to act, irrespective of the tem perature of the air ; but when, as occurs late in the autumn, the atmosphere is suddenly cooled below the freezing point of sea water, by a northerly gale, while the sea itself remains warmer, the paddles will be speedily clogged by ice accumulating on the floats as they rise through the air in every revolution. An in- cident recorded by Sir James C. Ross, furnishes a strik- ing illustration of the powerful action of a cold wind ; I allude to a fish having been thrown up by the spray against the bows of the Terror, and firmly frozen there, during a gale in a high southerly latitude. Moreover, even with the aid of a ready contrivance for topping the paddles, the flatness or hollowness of the sides of a paddle steamer renders her less fit for sustaining pres- sure ; the machinery is more in the way of oblique beams for strengthening, and she is less efiicient as a sailing vessel when the steam is let off." Memorandum inclosed in Dr. IPCormicT&'s Letter of the 1st of January^ 1850. " In the month of April last, I laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty a plan of search for the missing expedition under the command of Captain PEOGBESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. Sir John Franklin, by means of a boat expedition up Jones' and Smith's Sounds, volunteering myself to conduct it. " In that plan I stated the reasons which had induced me to direct my attention more especially to the open- ings at the head of Baffin's Bay, which, at the time, were not included within the general scheme of search. "Wellington Channel, however, of all the probable openings into the Polar Sea, possesses the highest de- gree of interest, and the exploration of it is of such paramount importance, that I should most unquestion- ably have comprised it within my plan of search, had not Her Majesty's ships Enterprise and Investigator been employed at the time in Barrow's Strait for the express purpose of examining this inlet and Cape Walker, two of the most essential points of search in the whole track of the Erebus and Terror to the west- ward ; being those points at the very threshold of his enterprise, from which Sir John Franklin would take his departure from the known to the unknown, whether he shaped a southwesterly course from the latter, or attempted the passage in a higher latitude from the former point. " The return of the sea expedition from Port Leo- pold, and the overland one from the Mackenzie Piver, both alike unsuccessful in their search, leaves the fate of the gallant Franklin and his companions as proble- matical as ever ; in fact, the case stands precisely as it did two years ago ; the work is yet to be begun ; every thing remains to be accomplished. "In renewal of the search in the ensuing spring, more would be accomplished in boats than in any other way, not only by Beh ring's Strait, but from the east- ward. For the difficulties attendant on icy navigation which form so insuperable a barrier to the progress of ships, would be readily surmounted by boats ; by means of which the coast line may be closely examined for cairns of stones, under which Sir John Franklin would most indubitably deposit memorials of his progress m all prominent positions, as opportunities might offer. OPmiONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 263 " The discovery of one of these mementos would, in iLA probability, afford a clue that might lead to the res- cue of our enterprising countrymen, ere another and sixth winter close in upon them, should they be still in existence ; and the time has not yet arrived for aban- doning hope. "In renewing once more the offer of my services, which I do most cheerfully, I see no reason for chang- ing the opinions I entertained last spring ; subsequent events have only tended to confirm them. I then be- lieved, and I do so still, after a long and mature con- sideration of the subject, that Sir John Franklin's ships have been arrested in a high latitude, and beset in the heavy polar ice northward of the Parry Islands, and that their probable course thither has been through the Wellington Channel, or one of the sounds at the north- ern extremity of Baffin's Bay. " This appears to me to be the only view of the case that can in any way account for the entire absence of all tidings of them throughout so protracted a period of time (unless all have perished by some sudden and overwhelming catastrophe.) "Isolated as their position would be under such cir- cumstances, any attempt to reach the continent of America at such a distance would be hopeless in the extreme : and the mere chance of any party from the ships reaching the top of Baffin's Bay at the very mo- ment of a whaler's brief and uncertain visit would be attended with by far too great a risk to justify the at- tempt, for failure would insure inevitable destruction to the whole party; therefore their only alternative would be to keep together in their ships, should no dig- ' aster have happened to them, and by husbanding their remaining resources, eke them out with whatever wild animals may come within their reach. " Had Sir John Franklin been able to shape a south- westerly course from Cape Walker, as directed by his instructions, the probability is, some intelligence of him would have reached this country ere this, (nearly five years having already elapsed since his departure 12 264 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. from it.) Parties would have been sent out from his ships, either in the direction of the coast of America or Barrow's Strait, whichever happened to be the most accessible. Esquimaux would have been fallen in with, and tidings of the long-absent expedition have been obtained. " Failing in penetrating beyond Cape "Walker, Sir John Franklin would have left some notice of his fu- ture intentions on that spot, or the nearest accessible one to it ; and should he then retrace his course for the "Wellington Channel, the most probable conjecture, he would not pass up that inlet without depositing a fur- ther account of his proceedings, either on the western or eastern point of the entrance to it. "Therefore, should my proposal meet with their Lordships' approbation, I would most respectfully sub- mit, that the party I have volunteered to conduct should be landed at the entrance to the Wellington Channel, or the nearest point attainable by any ship that their Lordships may deem fit to employ in a fu- ture search, consistently with any other services that ship may have to perform ; and should a landing be effected on the eastern side, I would propose commenc- ing the search from Cape Riley or Beechey Island in a northerly direction, carefully examining every re- markable headland and indentation of the western coast of Korth Devon for memorials of the missing ex- pedition ; I would then cross over the "Wellington Channel and continue the search along the northern shore of Cornwallis Island, extending the exploration to the westward as far as the remaining portion of the season would permit, so as to secure the retreat of the party before the winter set in, returning either by the eastern or western side of Cornwallis Island, as cir- cumstances might indicate to be the most desirable at the time, after ascertaining the general extent and trending of the shores of that island. "As, however, it would be highly desirable that Jones' Sound should not be omitted in the search, more especially as a whaler, last season, reached its entrance OPlNIOiJS ANB SUGGESTIONS. 265 and reported it open, I would furiner f »opose, that the ship conveying the exploring party out should look into this opening on her way to Lancaster Sound, if circum- stances permitted of her doing so early in the season ; and, if found to be free from ice, the attempt might be made by the boat expedition to push through it to the westward in this latitude ; and should it prove to be an opening into the Polar Sea, of which I think there can be little doubt, a great saving of time and distance would be accomplished. Failing in this, the ship should be secured in some central position in the vicinity of the Wellington Channel, as apoint d'^appui to fall back upon in the search from that quarter. (Signed,) K. M'Cormick, K. K " Twickenham, 1st oj January, 1850." Outline of a Plan of an Omrland Journey to the Polar Sea, hy the Wayjyf the Coppermine River, in Search of Sir John FranTdin^s Expedition, sug- gested in 1847. " If Sir John Franklin, guided by his instructions, has passed through Barrow's Strait, and shaped a south- westerly course, from the meridian of Cape "W'g-lker, with the intention of gaining the northern coast of the continent of America, and so passing through the Dol- phin and Union Strait, along the shore of that conti- nent, to Behring's Strait; " His greatest risk of detention by the ice through- out this course would be found between the parallels of 74° and 69° north latitude, and the meridians of 100° and 110° west longitude, or, in other words, that por- tion of the northwest passage which yet remains unex- plored, occupying the space between the western coast of Boothia on the one side, and the island or islands forming Banks' and Victoria Lands on the other. " Should the Erebus and Terror have been beset in the heavy drift-ice, or wrecked among it and the bro- ken land, which in all probability exists there while contending with the prevalent westerly winds in this quarter ; 2b6 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEET. " The Coppermine Eiver would decidedly offer the most direct route and nearest approach to that portion of the Polar Sea, and, after crossing Coronation Gulf,, the average breadth of the Strait between the Conti nent and Yictoria Land is only about twenty-two miles. " From this point a careful search should be com- menced in the direction of Banks' Land ; the interven- ing space between it and Yictoria Land, occupying about five degrees, or little more than 300 miles, could, I think, be accomplished in one season, and a retreat to winter quarters effected before the winter set in. As the ice in the Copperaiine River breaks up in June, the searching party ought to reach the sea by the be- ginning of August, which would leave two of the best months of the year for exploring the Polar Sea, viz ; August and September. " As it would be highly desirable that every available day, to the latest period of the season, should be de- voted to the search, I should propose wintering on the coast in the vicinity of the mouth of the Coppermine River, which would also afford a favorable position from which to recommence the search in the following spring, should the first season prove unsuccessful. " Of course the object of such an expedition as I have proposed is not with the view of taking supplies to such a numerous party as Sir John Franklin has under his command ; but to find out his position, and acquaint him where a depot of provisions would be stored up for himself and crews at my proposed winter quarters, where a party should be left to build a house, establish a fishery, and hunt for game, during the absence of the searching party. " To carry out this plan efficiently, the Hudson's Bay Company should be requested to lend their powerful cooperation in furnishing guides, supplies of pemmican, &c., for the party on their route and at winter quarters. Without entering into details here, I may observe, that I should consider one boat, combining the necessary requisites in her construction to fit her for either the river navigation, or that of the shores of the Polar Sea, OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 267 would be quite sufficient, with a crew one half sailors, and the other half Canadian boatmen ; the latter to be engaged at Montreal, for which place I would propose leaving England in the month of Febrnarj. " Should such an expedition even fail in its main ob- ject — the discovery of the position of the missing ships and their crews, the long-sought-for polar passage may be accomplished. (Signed,) E. M'Cokmick:, K. E". « Woolwich, 1847." Co^]/ of a Letter from Lieutenant Sherard shorn to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, " Ealing, Middlesex, 4:th Jamcary, 1850. " My Lokds, — A second attempt to reach Sir John Franklin's expedition being about to be tried during the present year, I take the liberty of calling your at- tention to the inclosed proposition for an overland party to be dispatched to the shores of the Polar Sea, with a view to their traversing the short distance between Cape Bathurst and Banks' Land. My reasons for thus tres- passing on your attention are as follows ; " 1st. General opinion places the lost expedition to the west of Cape Walker, and south of the latitude of Melville Island. " The distance from Cape Bathurst to Banks' Land is only 301 miles, and on reference to a chart it will be seen that nowhere else does the American continent approach so near to the supposed position of Franklin's expedition. " 2d. As a starting point. Cape Bathurst offers great advantages ; the arrival of a party sent there from England may be calculated upon to a day ; whereas the arrival of Captain Collinson in the longitude of Cape Barrow, or that of an eastern expedition in Lan- caster Sound, will depend upon many uncontrollable contingencies. The distance to be performed is com- paratively little, and the certainty of being able to fall back upon supplies offers great advantages. Captain PEOCJEESS OF AECTIC DKOOVKRT. CoUinson will have 680 miles of longitude to traverse between Cape Barrow and Banks' Land. An Eastern Expedition, if opposed by the ice, (as Sir James Ross has been,) and unable to proceed in their vessels farther than Leopold Harbor, will have to journey on foot 330 miles to reach the longitude of Banks' Land, and if any accident occur to their vessels, they will be in as critical a position as those they go to seek. " 3d. Banks' Land bears from Cape Bathurst N. 41° 49' E. 302 miles, and there is reason to believe that in the summer season a portion of this distance may be traversed in boats. " 4th and 5th. Dr. Eichardson confirms previous re- ports of the ice being light on the coast east of the Mackenzie River to Cape Bathurst, and informs us that the Esquimaux had seen no ice to seaward for two moons. " 6th. Every mile traversed northward by a party fi'om Cape Bathurst would be over that unknown space in which traces of Franklin may be expected. " 7th. It is advisable that such a second party be dispatched from Cape Bathurst, in order that the pros- ecution of Dr. Rae's examination of the supposed chan- nel between Wollaston and Victoria Lands may in no way be interfered with by his attention being called to the westward. "8th. The caches of provisions made at different points of the Mackenzie and at Cape Bathurst, would enable a party to push down to their starting point with great celerity directly the River Mackenzie opens, which may be as early as May. " I would also remind your Lordships that the pro- posed expedition would carry into execution a very im- portant clause in the instructions given to Sir James Ross ; viz : that of sending exploring parties from Banks' Land in a southwesterly direction toward Cape Bathurst or Cape Parry. " In conclusion, I beg to offer my willing services to- ward the execution of the proposed plan ; and seeking it from no selfish motives, but thoroughly impressed OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 269 with its feasibility, you may rest assured, my lords, should I have the honor of being sent upon this service, that I shall not disappoint your expectations. "I have, &c., (Signed,) " Shekakd Osbokn, Lieut., E. ]^." Co^y of a Letter from Colonel Sabine^ B. A., to Cap- tain Sir W. Edward Parry. " Castle-down Terrace^ Hastings, " l^th of January, 1850. " There can be little doubt, I imagine, in the miud of any one who has read attentively Franklin's instruc- tions, and, (in reference to them,) your description of the state of the ice and of the navigable water in 1819 and 1820, in the route which he was ordered to pursue; still less, I think, can there be a doubt in the mind of any one who had the advantage of being with you in tho§e years, that Franklin, (always supposing no pre- vious disaster,) must have made his way to the south- west part of Melville Island either in 1845 or 1846. It has been said that 1845 was an unfavorable season, and as the navigation of Davis' Strait and Baffin-s Bay was new to Franklin, we may regard it as more probable that it may have taken him two seasons to accomplish what we accomplished in one. So far, I think, guided by his instructions and by the experience gained in 1819 and 1820, we may reckon pretty confidently on the first stage of his proceedings, and doubtless, in his progress he would have left memorials in the uiual manner at places where he may have landed, some of which would be likely to fall in the way of a vessel fol- lowing in his track. From the west end of Melville Island our inferences as to his further proceedings must become more conjectural, being contingent on thf; state of the ice and the existence of navigable water in the particular season. If he found the ocean, as we did, covered to the west and south, as far as the eye could reach from the summit of the highest hills, with ice of a thickness unparalleled in any other part of the Polai 270 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Sea, he would, after probably waiting through one whole season in the hope of some favorable change, have re- traced his steps, in obedience to the second part of his instructions, in order to seek an opening to the north which might conduct to a more open sea. In this case some memorial of the season passed by him at the southwest end of Melville Island, and also of his pur- pose of retracing his steps, would doubtless have been left by him ; and should he subsequently have found an opening to the north, presenting a favorable appear- ance, there also, should circumstances have permitted, would a memorial have been left. " lie may, however, have found a more favorable state of things at the southwest end of Melville Island than we did, and may have been led thereby to at- tempt to force a passage for his ships in the direct line of Behring's Strait, or perhaps, in the first instance, to the south of that direction, namely, to Banks' Land In such case two contingencies present themselves • first, that in the season of navigation of 1847 he may have made so much progress, that in 1848 he may have preferred the endeavor to push through to Behring's Strait, or to some western part of the continent, to an attempt to return by the way of Barrow's Strait ; the mission of the Plover, the Enterprise, and the Inves- tigator together with Dr. Kae's expedition, supply, 1 presume, (for I am but partially acquainted with their instructions,) the most judicious means of affording re- lief in this direction. There is, however, a second con- tingency ; and it is the one which the impression left on my mind by the nature and general aspect of the ice in the twelve months which we ourselves passed at the southwest end of Melville Island, compels me, in spite of my wishes, to regard as the more probable, viz., that his advance from Melville Island in the sea- son of 1847 may have been limited to a distance of fifty, or perhaps one hundred miles at farthest, and that in 1848 he may have endeavored to retrace his steps, but only with partial success. It is, I apprehend, quite a conceivable case, that under these circumstances, \ - OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 271 incapable of extricating the ships from the ice, the crews may have been, at length, obliged to quit them, and attempt a retreat, not toward the continent, because too distant, but to Melville Island, where certainly food, and probably fuel (seals,) might be obtained, and where they would naturally suppose that vessels dis- patched from England for their relief would, in the first instance, seek them. It is quite conceivable also, I apprehend, that the circumstances might be such that their retreat may have been made without their boats, and probably in the April or May of 1849. "Where the Esquimaux have lived, there Englishmen may live, and no valid argument against the attempt to relieve can, I think, be founded on the improbability of finding Englishmen alive in 1850, who may have made a retreat to Melville Island in the spring of 1849 ; nor would the view of the case be altered in any ma- terial degree, if we suppose their retreat to have been made in 1848 or 1849 to Banks' Land, which may afibrd facilities of food and fuel equal or superior to Melville Island, and a further retreat in the following year to the latter island as the point at which they would more probably look out for succor. " Without disparagement, therefore, to the attempts made in other directions, I retain my original opinion, which seems also to have been the opinion of the Board of Admiralty, by which Ross's instructions were drawn up, that the most promising direction for re- search would be taken by a vessel which should follow them to the southwest point of Melville Island, be pre- pared to winter there, and, if necessary, to send a party across the ice in April or May to examine Banks' Land, a distance (there and back) less than recently accomplished by E-oss in his land journey. "I learn from Koss's dispatches, that almost imme- diately after he got out of Port Leopold (1849,) he was entangled in apparently interminable fields and floes of ice, with which, in the course of the summer, he was drifted down through Barrow's Strait and Baffin's Bay nearly to Davis' Strait. It is reasonable to pre- 12* 272 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. sume, therefore, that the localities from whence this ice drifted are likely to be less encumbered than usual by accumulated ice in 1850. It is, of course, of the highest importance to reach Barrow's Strait at' the ear- liest possible period of the season ; and, connected with this point I learn from Captain Bird, whom I had the pleasure of seeing here a few days ago, a very remark- able fact, that the ice which prevented their crossing Baffin's Bay in 72° or 73° of latitude (as we did in 1819, arriving in Barrow's Strait a month earlier than we had done the preceding year, when we went round by Melville Bay, and nearly a month earlier than Ross did last year) was young ice, which had formed in the remarkably calm summer of last year, and which the absence of wind prevented their forcing a passage through, on the one hand, while on the other, the ice was not heavy enough for ice anchors. It was, he said, not more than two or two and a half feet thick, and ob- viously of very recent formation. There must, there- fore, have been an earlier period of the season when this part of the sea must have been free from ice ; and this comes in confirmation of a circumstance of which I was informed "by Mr. Petersen (a Danish gentleman sent to England some months ago by the Northern So- ciety of Antiquaries of Copenhagen, to make extracts from books and manuscripts in the British Museum,) that the Northmen, who had settlements some centu- ries ago on the west coast of Greenland, were in the habit of crossing Baffin's Bay in the latitude of Uper- navic in the spring of the year, for the purpose of nsh- ing in Barrow's Strait, from whence they returned in August ; and that in the early months they generally found the passage across free from ice. " In the preceding remarks, I have left one contin- gency unconsidered ; it is that which would have fol- lowed in pursuance of his instructions, if Franklin should have found the aspect of the ice too unfavorable to the west and south of Melville Island to attempt to force a passage through it, and should have retraced his steps m hopes of finding a more open sea to the northward, OPINIONS AND SUGGESTIONS. 273 wither in "Wellington Strait or elsewhere. It is quite conceivable that here also the expedition may have en- countered, at no very great distance, insuperable diffi- culties to their advance, and may have failed in accom- plishing a return vrith their ships. In this case, the retreat of the crews, supposing it to have been made across land or ice, would most probably be directed to some part of the coast on the route to Melville Island, on which route they would, without doubt, expect that succor would be attempted." Mr. Robert A. Goodsir, a brother of Mr. H. D. Good- eir, the assistant-surgeon of Sir John Franklin's ship, the Erebus, left Stromness, as 'surgeon of the Advice, whaler, Capt. Penny, on the 17th of March, 1849, in the hopes of gaining some tidings of his brother ; but returned unsuccessful after an eight months' voyage. He has, however, published a very interesting little narrative of the icy regions and of his arctic voyage. In a letter to Lady Franklin, dated Edinburgh, 18th of January, 1850, he says : — " I trust you are not allow- ing yourself to become over-anxious. I know that, although there is much cause to be so, there is still not the slightest reason that we should despair. It may be presumptuous in me to say so, but I have never for a moment doubted as to their ultimate safe return, having always had a sort of presentiment that I would meet my brother and his companions somewhere in the regions in which their adventures are taking place. This hope I have not yet given up, and I trust that by next sum- mer it may be fulfilled, when an end will be put to the suspense which has lasted so long, and which must have tried you so much." The arctic regions, far from being so destitute of ani- mal life as might be supposed from the bleak and inhos- pitable character of the climate, are proverbial for the boundless profusion of various species of the animal kingdom, which are to be met with in different locali- ties during a great part of the year. The air is often darkened by innumerable flocks of arctic and blue gulls, {Lestris Parasiticus, and Larus 18 274 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. glaucus^ tlie ivory gull or snow-bird, {Larus eburnetts^ the kittiwake, the fulmar or petrel, snow geese, terns, coons, dovekies, &c. The cetaceous animals comprise the great Greenland whale, (Bologna mysticetus^ the sea unicorn or narwhal, {Monodon monoceros^ the white whale or beluga, {Delphinus leucos^ the morse or walrus, {Trichecus rosmarus^ and the seal. There are also plenty of porpoises occasionally to be met with, and although these animals may not be the best of food, yet they can be eaten. Of the land animals I may in- stance the polar bear, the musk-ox, the reindeer, the arctic fox and wolves. Parry obtained nearly 40001bs. weight of animal food during his winter residence at Melville Island ; Ross nearly the same quantity from birds alone when winter- ing at Port Leopold. In 1719, the crews of two Hudson's Bay vessels, the Albany and Discovery, a ship and sloop, under the command of Mr, Barlow and Mr. Knight, were cast on shore on Marble Island, and it was subsequently ascer- tained that some of the party supj)orted life for nearly three years. Mr. Hearne learned the particulars from some of the Esquimaux in 1729. The ship it appeared went on shore in the fall of 1719 ; the party being then in number about fifty, began to build their house for the winter. As soon as the ice permitted in the follow- ing summer the Esquimaux paid them another visit, and found the number of sailors much reduced, and very unhealthy. Sickness and famine occasioned such havoc among them that by the setting in of the second winter, their number was reduced to twenty. Some of the Esqui- maux took up their abode at this period on the opposite side of the harbor, and supplied them with what provis- ions they could spare in the shape of blubber, seal's flesh, and train oil. The Esquimaux left for their wanderings in the spring, and on revisiting the island in the summer of 1721, only five of the crews were found alive, and these were so ravenous for food, that they devoured the blub- ABUITOANCE OF AmMAL FOOD MET WITH. 275 ber and seal's flesh raw, as they purchased it of the natives, which proved so injurious in their weak state, that three of them died in a few days* The two sur- vivors, though very weak, managed to bury their com- rades, and protracted their existence for some days longer. "They frequently," in the words of the narrative, •'went to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly looked to the south and east, as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After continuing there a considerable time, and nothing appearing in sight, they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At length one of the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted, that he fell down and died also in attempting to dig a grave for his companion. The skulls and other large bones of these two men are now lying above ground close to the house." Sir John Richardson, speaking of the amount of food to be obtained in the polar region, says, "Deer migrate over the ice in the spring from the main shore to Vic- toria and Wollaston Lands in large herds, and return in the autumn. These lands are also the breeding places of vast flocks of snow geese ; so that with ordinary skill in hunting, a large supply of food might be pro- cured on their shores,*in the months of June, July, and August. Seals are also numerous in those seas, and are easily shot, their curiosity rendering them a ready prey to a boat party." In these ways and by fishing, the stock of provisions might be greatly augmented — and we have the recent example of Mr. Rae, who passed a severe winter on the very barren shores of Kepulse Bay, with no other fuel than the withered tufts of a herbaceous andromada, and maintained a numer- ous party on the spoils of the chase alone for a whole year. Such instances, forbid us to lose hope. Should Sir John Franklin's provisions become so far inade- quate to a winter's consumption, it is not likely that he would remain longer by his ships, but rather that in one body, or in several, the officers and crews, with boats cut down so as to be light enough to drag over 276 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCCVEBT. the ice, or built expressly for that purpose, would en- deavor to make their way eastward to Lancaster Sound/ or southward to the main-land, according to the longi^ tude in which the ships were arrested. "We ought not to judge of the supplies of food that can be procured in the arctic regions by diligent hunt- ing, from the quantities that have been actually ob- tained on the several expeditions that have returned, and consequently of the means of preserving life there. When there was abimdance in the ships, the address and energy of the hunting parties was not likely to be called forth, as they would inevitably be when the exis- tence of the crews depended solely on their personal efforts, and formed their chief or only object in their march toward quarters where relief might be looked for. This remark has reference to the supposition that on the failure of the stock of provisions in the ships, the crews would, in separate parties under their officers, seek for succor in several directions. With an empty stomach, the power of resisting exter- nal cold is greatly impaired ; but when the process of digesting is going on vigorously, even with compara- tively scanty clothing, the heat of the body is preserved. There is in the winter time, in high latitudes, a craving for fat or oleaginous food, and for such occasions the flesh of seals, walruses, or bears, forms a useful article of diet. Captain Cook says that the walrus is a sweet and wholesome article of food. Whales and seals would also furnish light and fuel. The necessity for increased food in very cold weather, is not so great when the people do not work. Mr. Gilpin, in his narrative in the Kautical Maga- zine for March, 1850, writes thus : — "About the 20th of June a small water bird, called the doveky, had become so numerous, and so many were daily shot by those who troubled themselves to go after them, that shooting parties from each ship, con- sisting of an officer and marine, were established at Whaler Point, where they remained the whole week, returning on board on Saturday night. In a week or ABUNDANCE OF ANIMAL FOOD MET WITH. 277 SO after this the coon, a much heavier bird, became more plentiful than the little doveky, and from this time to the middle of August, so successful and untir- ing were our sportsmen, that the crew received each a bird per man a day. " The account kept on board the Investigator showed the number of birds killed to have amounted to about 4000, and yielding near 25001bs. of meat. But more than this was obtamed, as many were shot by individ- uals for amusement, and not always noted." Mr. Goodsir, surgeon, when in the Advice whaler, on her voyage up Lancaster Sound, in the summer of 1849, speaking of landing on one of the Wollaston Islands, on the west side of IS avy Board Inlet, says ho disturbed about half a dozen pairs of the eider-duck {Somateria Tnollissima.) Their eggs he found to be within a few hours of maturity. There were, besides, numerous nests, the occupants of which had probably winged their way southward. ' Two brent geese, {Anser hernicla^ and a single pair of arctic terns, {Stefna arctica^) were most vociferous and courageous in defense of their downy offspring wherever he approached. These were the only birds he saw, with the exception of a solitary ra- ven, (Corvus cor ax,) not very high overhead, whose sharp and yet musically bell-like croak came startling upon the ear. Mr. Snow, in his account of the voyage of the Prince Albert, p. 162, says, (speaking of Melville Bay, at the northern head of Baffin's Bay,) " Innumerable quanti- ties of birds, especially the little auir, (Alca alle,) and the doveky, {Coly7/ihiis grylle.) v,^3rc now seen, (Au- gust 6th,) in every direction. They wer^ to be ob- served in thousands, on the wing a'ld in the water, and often on pieces of ice, where they were clustered together so thick that scores might have been shot at a time by two or three fowling pieces." In passing up Lancaster Sound a fortiiiglit later sev- eral shoal of eider-ducks and large quantities of othm tha*-. gentleman that the party led by him down the Coppermine, with the view of crossing over to Yic toria or Wollaston Land, had, owing to the unusual difficulties created by the more than customary rigor of the season, met with entire failure ; the farthest point attained being Cape Krusenstern. Lieut. Pullen is occupied during the present year in VOYAGE OF THE PLOVEE, ETC. 309 a journey from the moutli of the Mackenzie eastward, along the arctic coast, as far as Cape Bathurst, and tliis being successfully accomplished, he purposes attempt- ing to cross the intervening space to Banks' Land. He is furnished with two boats, both open. Lieut. W. H. Hooper, one of the party, in a recent letter to his father in London, writing from Great Slave Lake, under date June 27, 1850, gives»some further de- tails of their proceedings. Having had considerable trouble and a slight skirmish with some parties of Es- quimaux, they were obliged to be continually on the watch. At the end of August, the party entered the Mackenzie Eiver, and in a few days reached one of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts on the Peel Eiver, a branch of the Mackenzie, where Commander Pullen left Lieut. Hooper and half the party to winter, while he proceeded farther up the river to a more important post at Fort Simpson. After remaining at Peel's Piver station about a fortnight, Mr. Hooper found that his party could not be maintained throughout the winter there, and in consequence determined on following Capt. Pullen, but was only able to reach Fort [N'orman, one of his party being frost-bitten on the journey. They thence made their way across to Great Bear Lake, where they passed the winter, subsisting on fish and water. Dr. Pae arrived there as soon as the ice broke up, and the party proceeded with him to Fort Simpson. On the 20th of June, Command er Pullen and all his party left with the company's servants, and the stock of furs, on their way to the sea, to embark for England, when they were met, on the 25th, by a canoe with Ad- miralty dispatches, which caused them to retrace their steps ; and they are now on their route by the Great Slave Lake to Fort Simpson, and down the Mackenzie once more, to the Polar Sea, in search of Sir John Franklin. "However grieving," Lieut. Hooper adds, "it is to be disappointed of returning home, yet I am neverthe- less delighted to go again, and think that we do not hopelessly undertake another search, since our intended 310 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOYERY. direction is considered the most probable channel for finding the missing ships or crews. We go down the Mackenzie, along the coast eastward to Point Bathurst, and thence strike across to Wollaston or Banks' Land. The season will, of course, much influence our proceed- ings ; but we shall probably return uj) the hitherto unexplored river which runs into the Arctic Ocean from Liverpool • Bay, between the Coppermine and Mackenzie." The latest official dispatch from Commander PuUen is dated Great Slave Lake, June 28th. He had been stopped by the ice, and intended returning to Fort Simpson on the 29th. One of his boats was so battered about as to be perfectly useless ; he intended patching up the other, and was also to receive a new boat be- longing to the Hudson's Bay Company, from Fort Simpson. He had dismissed two of his party, as they were both suifering from bad health, but proposed en- gaging, at Fort Good Hope, two Hare Indians as hunt- ers and guides, one of whom had accompanied Messrs. Dease and Simpson on their trips of discovery in 1838 and 1839. This would augment the party to seventeen persons in all. " M}^ present intentions," he says, " are to proceed down the Mackenzie, along the coast, to Cape Bathurst, and then strike across for Banks' Land ; my operations must then, of course be guided by circumstances, but I shall strenuously endeavor to search along all coasts in that direction as far and as late as I can with safety venture ; returning, if possible, by the Mackenzie, or by the Beghoola, which the Indians speak of as being navigable, as its head waters are, (according to Sir John Richardson,) only a nine-days' passage from Fort Good Hope ; to meet which, or a similar contingency, I take snow shoes and sledges, &c. " In conclusion, I iDeg to assure their Lordships of my earnest determination to carry out their views to the utmost of my ability, being confident, from the eagerness of the party, that no pains will be spared, no necessary labor avoided, and, by God's blessing, we VOYAGE OF THE PLOVER, ETC. 311 hope to be successful in discovering some tidings of our gallant countrymen, or even in restoring them to their native land and anxious relatives." Mr. Chief Factor Kae was about to follow Com- munder PuUen and his party from Portage La Loche. Dr. Eichardson observes that " Commander Pullen will require to be fully victualed for at least 120 days from the 20th of July, when he may be expected to commence his sea voyage ; which, for sixteen men, will require forty-five bags of pemmican of 90 lbs. each. This is exclusive of a further supply which he ought to take for the relief of any of Franklin's people he may have the good fortune to find. After he leaves the main-land at Cape Bathurst, he would have no chance of killing deer till he makes Banks' Land, or some in- tervening island ; and he must provide for the chance of being caught on the floe ice, and having to make his way across by the very tedious portages, as fully de- scribed by Sir W. E. Parry in the narative of his most adventurous boat voyage north of Spitzbergen. " Mr. Kae can give Commander Pullen the fullest information respecting the depots of pemmican made on the coast. " With respect to Commander Pullen's return from sea, his safest plan will be to make for the Mackenzie ; but should circumstances place that out of his power, the only other course that seems to me to be practicable is for him to ascend a large river which falls into the bottom of Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Ba- thurst. This river, which is named the Begloola Dessy by the Indians, runs parallel to the Mackenzie, and in the latitude of Fort Good Hope, {66'' 30' IST.,) is not above five or six days' journey from that post. Hare Indians, belonging to Fort Good Hope, might be en gaged to hunt on the banks of the river till the arrival of the party. The navigation of the river is unknown ; but even should Commander Pullen be compelled to quit his boats, his Indian hunters, (of which he should at least engage two for his sea ' voyage,) will support and guide his party. "Wood and animals are most cer- tainly found on the banks of rivers. 312 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEEY. "It is not likely that under any circumstances Com- mander Pullen should desire to reach the Mackenzie by way of the Coppermine River, and this could be effected only by a boat being placed at Dease River, for the transport of the party over Great Bear Lafce. This would require to be arranged previously with Mr. Rae ; and Commander Pullen should not be later in arriving at Fort Confidence than the end of September." Voyage of the " Lady Feanklin " and " Sophia," Government Yessels, under the commlotd of Me. Penny, 1850-51. A vessel of 230 tons, named the Lady Franklin, fit- ted out at Aberdeen, with a new brig as a tender, built at Dundee, and named the Sophia, in honor of Miss S. Cracroft, the beloved and attached niece of Lady Franklin, and one of the most anxious watchers for tidings of the long missing adventurers, were purchased by the government last year. The charge of this expedition was intrusted to Cap- tain Penny, formerly commanding the Advice whaler, and who has had much experience in the icy seas, hav- ing been engaged twenty-eight years, since the age of twelve, in the whaling trade, and in command of ves- sels for fourteen years ; Mr. Stewart was placed in charge of the Sophia. The crew of the Lady Franklin number twenty-five, and that of the Sophia, twenty, all picked men. These ships sailed on the 12th of April, 1850, pro- visioned and stored for three years. They were pro- vided with a printing press, and every appliance to relieve the tedium of a long sojourn in the icy regions. In the instructions issued by the Admiralty, it is stated that in accepting Captain Parry's offer of service, regard has been had to his long experience* in arctic navigation, and to the great attention he has paid to the subject of the missing ships. He was left in a great measure to the exercise of his VOYAGE OF THE KESOLUTE AKD ASSISTAKCE, ETC. 313 ^wn judgment and discretion, in combining the most active and energetic search after the Erebns and Terror, with a strict and careful regard to the safety of the ships and their crews under his charge. He was di- rected to examine Jones' Sound at the head of Baffin's Bay, and if possible, penetrate through to the Parry Islands ; failing in this, he was to try W ellington Strait, and endeavor to reach Melville Island. He was to use his utmost endeavors, (consistent with the safety of the lives of those intrusted to his command,) to succor, in the summer of 1850, the party under Sir John Frank- lin, taking care to secure his winter-quarters in good time ; and 2dly, the same*active measures were to be used in the summer of 1851, to secure the return of the ships under his charge to this country. The Lady Franklin was off Cape York, in. Baffin's Bay, on the 13th of August. From thence she pro- ceeded, in company wdth H. M. S. Assistance, to Wol- stenholme Sound. She afterward, in accordance with her instructions, crossed over to the west with the in- tention of examining Jones' Sound, but owing to the accumulation of ice, was unable to approach it within twenty-five miles. This was at midnight on the 18th, She, therefore, continued her voyage to Lancaster Sound, and onward to "Wellington Channel, where she was seen by Commander Forsyth, of the Prince Albert, )n the 25th of August, with her tender, and H. M. S. Assistance in company, standing toward Cape Hotham. V"oYAGE OF H. M. Ships " Eesoltjte " ai^d " Assistance," WITH THE SlEAMEES " PlONEEE " AND "InTEEPID'* AS Tenders, under command of Captain Austin, 1850-51. Two fine teak-built ships of about 600 tons each, the Baboo and Ptarmigan, whose names were altered to the Assistance and Resolute, were purchased by the government in 1850, and sent to the naval yards to be oroperly fitted for the voyage to the polar regions. Two screw-propeller steamers, intended to Accompany 314: PKOGRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. these vessels as steam tenders, were also purchased and similarly fitted ; their names were changed from the Eider and Free Trade to the Pioneer and Intrepid. The command of this expedition was intrusted to Captain Horatio T. Austin, 0. B., who was first Lieu- tenant of the Fury, under Commander Hoppner, in Captain Sir E. Parry's third voyage, in 1824-25. The vessels were provisioned for three years, and their at- tention was also directed to the depots of stores lodged by Sir James Eoss at Leopold Island, and at JSTavy Board Inlet by the Korth Star. The ships sailed in May, 1850. The officers employed in them were as follows ; — JResolute, Captain — Horatio T. Austin, C. B. Lieutenants — R. D. Aldrich, and W". H. J. Browne. Mates — R. B. Pearse, and W. M. May. Purser — J. E. Brooman. Surgeon — A. R. Bradford. Assistant, ditto — Richard King. Midshipmen — C. Bullock, J. P. Cheyne* Second Master — G. F. M'Dougall. Total complement, 60 men. Pioneer^ screw steamer. Lieut.-Commanding — Sherard Osbom. Second Master — J. H. AUard. Assistant-Surgeon — F. R. Picthom. Assistance. Captain — E. Ommaney. Lieutenants — J. E. Elliot, F. L. M'Clintock, and G. F. Mecham. Surgeon — J. J. L. Donnett. Assistant, ditto — J. Ward, {a) Mates — R. Y. Hamilton, and J. R. Keane. Clerk in Charge — E. IST. Harrison. Second Master — W. B. Shellabear. Midshipman — C. R. Markham. Total complement, 60 men. , ETC. 315 Intrepid^ screw steamer. Lieut.-Commander — B. Cator. Each of the tenders had a crew of 30 men. Two ot the officers appointed to this expedition, Lien- tenants Browne and M'Clintock, were in the Enterprise under Captain Sir James C. Ross in 1848. The Emma Eugenia transport was dispatched in ad- vance with provisions to the Whale-Fish Islands, to await the arrival of the expedition. It having been suggested by some parties that Sir John Franklin might have effected his passage to Mel- ville Island, and been detained there with his ships, or that the ships might have been damaged by the ice in the neighboring sea, and that with his crews he had abandoned them and made his escape to that island, Captain Austin was specially instructed to use every exertion to reach this island, detaching a portion of his ships to search the shores of Wellington Channel and the coast about Cape Walker, to which point Sir John Franklin was ordered to proceed. Advices were first received from the Assistance, after her departure, dated 5th of July ; she was then making her way to the northward. The season was less favor- able for exploring operations than on many previous years. But little ice had been met with in Davis' Strait, where it is generally found in large quantities, so that obstacles of a serious nature may be expected to the northward. Penny's ships had been in company with them. Ice is an insurmountable barrier to rapid progress ; fortifications may be breached, but huge masses of ice, 200 to 600 feet high, are not to be overcome. On the 2d of July the Assistance was towed beneath a perpendicular clifi" to the northward of Cape Shackle- ton, rising to the height of 1500 feet, which was ob- served to be crowded with the foolish guillemots, ( Uria troile.) When the ship hooked on to an iceberg for the night, a party sent on shore for the purpose brought off 260 birds and about twenty dozen of their eggs. These birds only lay one egg each. 316 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVKRY. The following official dispatch has been since received from Captain Ommaney : — ^^ Her Majesty^ 8 ship ''Assistance^ off Lancaster Sounds latitude -rs" 46' iT., longitude 75° 49' TF"., August IT, 1850. " SiE, — I have the honor to acquaint yon, for the in- formation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- ralty, that her Majesty's ship Assistance, and her tender, her Majesty's steam-vessel Intrepid, have this day suc- ceeded in effecting a passage across to the west water, and are now proceeding to Lancaster Sound. Officers and crews all well, with fine clear weather, and open water as far as can be seen. " Agreeably with instructions received from Captain H. Austin, we parted company on the 15th instant, at one A. M., off Cape Dudley Diggs, as the ice was then sufficiently open to anticipate no farther obstruction in effecting the north passage. He was anxious to proceed to Pond's Bay, and thence take up the examination along the south shores of Lancaster Sound, leaving me to ascertain the truth of a report obtained from the Esqui- maux at Cape York respecting some ship or ships hav- ing been seen near Wolstenholme Island, after which to proceed to the north shores of Lancaster Sound and Wellington Channel. " On passing Cape York, (the 14:th inst.,) natives were Been. By the directions of Captain Austin I landed, and communicated with them, when we were informed that they had seen a ship in that neighborhood in the spring, and that she was housed in. Upon this intelli- gence I shipped one of the natives, who volunteered to join us as interpreter and guide. " On parting with Captain Austin we proceeded toward Wolstenholme Island, where I left the ship and proceeded in her Majesty's steam- vessel Intrepid into Wolstenholme Sound, and by the guidance of the Esqui- maux, succeeded in finding a bay about thirteen miles further in, and sheltered by a prominent headland. In the cairns erected here we found a document stating Voyage of the resolute and assistance, etc. 317 that the E"orth Star had wintered in the bay, a copy of which I have the honor to transmit to their Lord- ships. " Previous to searching the spot where the ITorth Star wintered, I examined the deserted Esquimaux settle- ment. At this spot we found evident traces of some ship having been in the neighborhood, from empty pre- served meat canisters and some clothes left near a pool of water, marked with the name of a corporal belonging to the [N'orth Star. " Having ascertained this satisfactory information, I returned to Wolstenholme Island, where a document was deposited recording our proceedings. At 6 a. m., of the 16th inst., I rejoined the ship, and proceeded at two to the westward, and am happy to inform you that the passage across has been made without obstruction, tow- ing through loose and straggling ice. " The expedition was beset in Melville Bay, sur- rounded by heavy and extensive floes of ice, from the 11th of July to the 9th of August, 1850, when, after great exertion, a release was effected, and we succeeded in reaching Cape York by continuing along the edge of the land-ice, after which we have been favored with plenty of water. " Captain Penny's expedition was in company during the most part of the time while in Melville Bay, and up to the 14th inst., when we left him off Cap6 Dudley Diggs — all well. " In crossing Melville Bay we fell in with Sir John Eoss and Captain Forsyth's expeditions. These Capt. Austin has assisted by towing them toward their desti- nations. The latter proceeded with him, and the former has remained with us. " Having placed Sir John Ross in a fair way of reaching Lancaster Sound, with a fair wind and open water, his vessel has been cast off in this position. I shall, therefore, proceed with all dispatch to the exami- nation of the north shores of Lancaster Sound and Wellington Channel, according to Captain Austin's directions. 318 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. "I have the honor to be, Sir, your most ohedient humble servant. "Erasmus Ommaney, Captain." The Kesolute got clear of the Orkneys on the 15th of May, and arrived with her consort and the two tenders at the Whale-Fish Islands on the 14th of June. The Eesolute was in Possession Bay on the 17th of August. From thence her proposed course was along the coast, northward and westward, to Whaler Pointy situated at the southern extremity of Port Leopold, and afterward to Melville Island. In order to amuse themselves and their comrades, the officers of the Assistance had started a MS. newspaper, under the name of the " Aurora Borealis." Many of my readers will have heard of the " Cockpit Herald," and such other productions of former days, in his Majes- ty's fleet. Parry, too, liad his journal to beguile the long hours of the tedious arctic winter. I have seen copies of this novel specimen of the 'fourth estate," dated Baffin's Bay, June, 1850, in which there is a happy mixture of grave and gay, prose and verse ; numerous very fair acrostics are published. I append, by way of curiosity, a couple of extracts : — " What insect that IN'oah had with him, were these regions named after ? — The arc-tic." " To the editor of the Aurora Borealis, " Sir, — Having heard from an arctic voyager that he has seen ' crows'-nests' in those icy regions, I beg to inquire through your columns, if they are built by the crows, {Gorvus tintinnahitlus^ which Good sir states to utter a metallic bell-like croak? My fast friend begs me to inquire when rook shooting commences in those diggings ? " A ]S"aturaijst. [" We would recommend to ' A ITaturalist ' a visit to these ' crows'-nests,' which do exist in the arctic regions. We would also advise his fast friend to investigate VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN EOSS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 319 these said nests more thoroughly; he would find them tenanted by very old birds (ice quarter-masters,) who would not only inform him as to the species of crows and the sporting season, but would give them a fair chance of showing him how a pigeon may be plucked. — Editok."] VoYAG® OF Captain Sie John Eoss in the "Felix" PRIVATE Schooner, 1850-51. In April, 1850, Captain Sir John Hoss having vol- unteered his services to proceed in the search, was en- abled, by the liberality of the Hudson's Bay Company, who contributed 500Z., and public subscription, to leave England in the Felix schooner, of 120 tons, with a picked crew, and accompanied by Commander C. Ger- vans Phillips, K. N. She also had the Mary, Sir John's own yacht of twelve tons, as a tender. Mr. Abernethy proceeded as ice-master, having accompanied Sir John in his former voyage to Boothia; and Mr. Sivewright was mate of the Felix. The vessels sailed from Scot- land on the 23d of May, and reached Holsteinborg in June, where Captain Ross succeeded in obtaining a Danish interpreter who understood the Esquimaux language; he then proceeded on, calling at the Whale- Fish Islands, and passing northway through the "Way- gatt Strait, overtook, on the 10th of August, H. M. ships Assistance and Resolute, with their tenders the Intrepid and Pioneer, under the command of Captain Austin. On the 13th of August, Captain Ommaney in the Assistance, and Sir John Eoss in the Felix, being somewhere off Cape York, observed three male Es- quimaux on the ice close by, and with these people it was prudently resolved to communicate. Accord- ingly, Lieutenant Cator in the Intrepid steamer, tender to the Assistance, and Commander Phillips in the whale-boat of the Felix, put off on this service. The Intrepid's people arrived first, but apparently without any means of expressing their desires, so that when the 320 proge:ess of aectio discovery. boat of the Felix, containing an Esquimaux interpreter, joined the party, the natives immediately gave signs of recognition and satisfaction, came into the boat with- out the least hesitation, and engaged themselves pre- ^sently in a long and animated conversation with their countryman the interpreter. Half an hour was de- voted to this interchange of intelligence, but with no immediate result, for the interpreter could only trans- late his native language into Danish, and as no person in the boat understood Danish, the information re- mained as inaccessible as before. In this predicament the boats returned with the intention of confronting the interpreter — whose christianized name is Adam Beek — with Sir John Ross himself. As Sir John, however, was pushing ahead in the Felix toward Cape Dudley Diggs, and as Adam appeared anxious to disburden himself of his newly acquired information, the boats dropped on board the Prince Albert, another of the exploring vessels in the neighborhood, and there put Adam in communication with the captain's steward, John Smith, who "understood a little of the language," as Sir John Ross says, or "a good deal," as Com- mander Phillips says, and who presently gave such an account of the intelligence as startled every body on board. Its purport was as follows; — ^That in the win- ter of 184:6, when the snow was falling, two ships were crushed by the ice a good way off in the direction of Cape Dudley Diggs, and afterward burned by a fierce and numerous tribe of natives ; that the ships in ques- tion were not whalers, and that epaulettes were worn by some of the white men ; that a part of the crews were drowned, that the remainder were some time in huts or tents apart from the natives, that they had guns, but no balls, and that being in a weak and exhausted condition, they were subsequently killed by the natives with darts or arrows. This was the form given to the Esquimaux story by John Smith, captain's steward of the Prince Albert. Impressed with the importance of these tidings, Captain Ommaney and Commander Phillips immediately made their report to Captain ETC. 321 Austin in the Resolute, which was then in company with the Felix near Cape Dudley Diggs. Captain Aus- tin at once decided upon investigating the credibility of the story, and with this view dispatched a message to the Lady Franklin, another of the exploring ships, which lay a few miles off, and which had on board a regular Danish interpreter. This interpreter duly ar- rived, but proceeded forthwith to translate the story by a statement "totally at variance" with the interpreta- tion of " the other," whom, as we are told, he called a liar and intimidated into silence ; though no sooner was the latter left to himself than he again repeated his version of the tale, and stoutly maintained its accuracy. Meantime an additional piece of information became known, namely, that a certain ship had passed the win- ter safely housed in Wolstenholme Sound — a state- ment soon ascertained by actual investigation to be perfectly true. The following is an extract of a letter from — Captain Sir John Boss^ B. iV., to Captain W. A.B. Hamilton^ B. iT., Secretary of the Admiralty, " ' Felix ' discovery yacht ^ off Admiralty Inlet ^ " Lancaster Sound ^ August 22. "Sm, — I have to acquaint you, for the information of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that the Felix discovery yacht, with her tender, the Mary, after obtaining an Esquimaux interpreter at Ilolsteinborg, and calling at Whale-Fish Islands, proceeded northway through the Waygatt Straits, and overtook her Ma- jesty's discovery ships, under the command of Captain Austin on the 11th of August ; and on the 12th the senior officer and the second in command having cor- dially communicated with me on the best mode of performing the service on which we are mutually em- barked, arrangements were made and concluded for a simultaneous examination of every part of the eastern side of a northwest passage in which it was probable that the missina: ships could be bound : documents tf> 21 322 PEOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. tHat effect were exchanged, and subsequently assented to by Captains Forsyth and Penny. " On the 13th of August natives were discovered on the ice near to Cape York, with whom it was deemed advisable to communicate. On this service. Lieutenant Cator, in the Intrepid, was detached on the part of Captain Austin, and on my part Commander Phillips, with our Esquimaux interpreter, in the whale-boat of the Felix. It was found by Lieutenant Cator that Cap- tain Penny had left with the natives a note for Captain Austin, but only relative to the state of the navigation; however, when Commander Phillips arrived, the Esqui- maux, seeing one apparently of their own nation in the whale-boat, came immediately to him, when a long conversation took place, the purport of which could not be made known, as the interpreter could not ex- plain himself to any one, either in the Intrepid or the whale-boat, (as he understands only the Danish besides his own language,) until he was brought on board the Prince Albert, where John Smith, the captain's stew- ard of that vessel, who had been some years at the Hudson's Bay settlement of Churchill, and understands a little of the language, was able to give some expla- nation of Adam Peek's information, which was deemed of such importance that Captains Ommaney, Phillips, and Forsyth, proceeded in the Intrepid to the Pesolute, when it was decided by Captain Austin to send for the Danish Interpreter of the Lady Franklin, which, hav- ing been unsuccessful in an attempt at getting through the ice to the westward, was only a few miles distant. In the mean time it was known that, in addition to the first information, a ship, which could only be the Noi-th Star, had wintered in Wolstenholme Sound, called by the natives Ourinak, and had only left it a month ago. Tliis proved to be true, but the interpretation of the Dane was totally at variance with the information given by the other, who, although for obvious reasons he did not dare to contradict the Dane, subsequently main- tained the truth of his statement, whicli induced Cap- tain Austin to dispatch the Intrepid with Captains VOYAGE OF SIR JOHN KOSS IN THE FELIX, ETC. 823 Ommaney and Phillips, taking with them both onr in- terpreters, Adam Beek and a young, native who had been persuaded to come as one of the crew of the As- sistance, to examine Wolstenholme Sound. In the mean time it had been nnffnimously decided that no alteration should be made in our previous arrangement, it being obvious that while there remained a chance of saving the lives of those of the missing ships who may be yet alive, a further search for those who had per- ished should be postponed, and accordingly the Reso- lute, Pioneer, and Prince Albert parted company on the 15th. It is here unnecessary to give the official re- ports made to me by Commander Phillips, which are of course transmitted by me to the Secretary of the Hudson's Bay Company, which, with the information written in the Esquimaux language by Adam lieek, will no doubt be sent to you for their Lordships' infor- mation ; and it will be manifest by these reports that Commander Phillips has performed his duty with sa- gacity, circumspection, and address, which do him in- finite credit, although it is only such as I must have expected from so intelligent an officer; and I have much satisfaction in adding that it has been mainly owing to his zeal and activity that I was able, under disadvantaj^eoiis circumstances, to overtake her Majes- ty's ships, vvaiie by his scientific acqinrements and ac- curacy in surveying, he has been able to make many important corrections and valuable additions to the charts of the much-frequented eastern side of Baffin's Bay, which has been more closely observed and navi- gated by us than by any former expedition, and, much to my satisfaction, confirming the latitude aud longi- tude of every headland I had an opportunity of laying down in the year 1818. "I have only to add that I have much satisfaction in co-operating with her Majesty's expedition. With such support and with such vessels so particularly adapted for the service, no exertion shall be wanting on my part. But I cannot conclude this letter without acknowledging my obligations to Commodore Austin 324 PEOGEESS OF AEfJTIC DISCOVERY. and Captain Ommaney for the assistance they have af- forded me, and for the cordiality and courtesy with which I have been treated by these distinguished offi- cers and others of tlie shjj^s under their orders. Ani- mated as we are with an ardent and sincere desire to rescue our imperiled countrymen, I confidently trust >hat our united exertions and humble endeavors may, .mder a merciful Providence, be completely successful. "I am, with truth and regard, Sir, your faithful and v^b^dient servant, "John Ross, Captain, E. IT." By the accounts brought home by Commander For- syth from Lancaster Sound, to the 25th of August, it is stated that Sir John Ross, in the Felix, intended to return to England. The ice was at that period very heavy, extending all around from Leopold Island, at the entrance of Regent Inlet, to Cape Farewell, to the westward, so as to pre- vent the possibility of any of the vessels pushing on to Cape "Walker. When the Prince Albert was between Cape Spencer and Cape Innes, in Wellington Channel, Mr. Snow went at noon to the mast-head, and saw H. M. Ship Assistance as near as possible within Cape Hotham, under a press of sail. Her tender, the In- trepid, was not seen, but was believed to be with her. Captain Penny, with his two ships, the Lady Franklin and Sophia, was endeavoring to make his way up the same Channel, but it was feared the ice would ulti- mately be too strong for him, and that he would have to return home, leaving Captain Austin's squadron only to winter in the ice. The American man-of-war brig Rescue was close be- set with the ice near Cape Bowen. The Pioneer was with the Resolute on the 17th August. LADY franklin's APPEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 325 A tERICAN SeAECHING EXPEDITION. TJnITED StATES' jShips, ''Advance" and ''Rescue," under the Com- mand OF Lieutenant De Haven, 1850-51. In the spring of 1849, Lady Franklin made a toiicli- ing and pathetic appeal to the feelings of the American nation, in the following letter to the President of the Republic : — The Lady of Sir John Franklin to the President. '•^ Bedford-place^ London^ Uh Aprils 1849. "Sir, — I address myself to you as the head of a great nation, whose power to help me I cannot doubt, and in whose disposition to do so I have a confidence which I trust you will not deem presumptuous. "The name of my husband. Sir John Franklin, is probably not unknown to you. It is intimately con- nected with the northern part of that continent of which the American republic forms so A^ast and con- spicuous a portion. When I visited the United States three years ago, among the many proofs I received of respect and courtesy, there was none which touched and even surprised me more than the appreciation everywhere expressed to me of his former services in geographical discovery, and the interest felt in the en- terprise in which he was then known to be engaged." * * -K- •«• * [Her ladyship here gives the details of the departure of the expedition, and the measures already taken for its relief.] * * * * « "I have entered into these details with the view of proving that, though the British government has not forgotten the duty it owes to the brave men whom it has sent on a perilous service, and has spent a very large sum in providing the means for their rescue, yet that, owing to various causes, the means actually in operation for this purpose are quite inadequate to meet the extreme exigence of the case; for, it mast be 826 PKOGEESS O^ AECTIC DISCOYEEY. remembered, that the missing ships were victualed for three years only, and that nearly four years have now elapsed, so that the survivors of so many winters in the ice must be at the last extremity. And also, it must be borne in mind, that the channels by which the ships may have attempted to force a passage to the westward, or which they may have been compelled, by adverse circumstances, to take, are very numerous and compli- cated, and that one or two ships cannot possibly, in the course of the next short summer, explore them all. " The Board of Admiralty, under a conviction of this fact, has been induced to offer a reward of 20,000^. sterling to any ship or shijDS, of any country, or to any exploring party whatever, which shall render efficient assistance to the missing ships, or their crews, or to any portion of them. This announcement, which, even if the sum had been doubled or trebled, would have met with public approbation, comes, however, too late for our whalers, which had unfortunately sailed before it was issued, and which, even if the news should over- take them at their fishing-grounds, are totally unntted for any prolonged adventure, having only a few months' provision on board, and no additional clothing. To the American 'Whalers, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, I look with more hope, as competitors for the prize, be- ing well aware of their numbers and strength, their thorough equipment, and the bold spirit of enterprise which animates their crews. But I venture to look even beyond these. I am not without hope that you will deem it not unworthy of a great and kindred na- tion to take up the cause of humanity which I plead, in a national spirit, and thus generously make it your own. " I must here, in gratitude, adduce the example of the imperial llussian government, which, as I am led to hope by his Excellency, the Russian embassador in London, who forwarded a memorial on the subject, will send out exploring parties this summer, from the Asiatic Bide of Behring's Strait, northward, in search of the lost vessels. It would be a noble spectacle to the world, if three great nations, possessed of the widest AlIEKICAK' NATION. 327 empires on the face of tlie globe, were thus to unite their efforts in the truly christian work of saving their perishing fellow-men from destruction. "It is not for me to suggest the mode in which such benevolent efforts might best be made. 1 will only say^ however, that if the conceptions of my own mind, to which I do not venture to give utterance, were realized, and that in the noble competition which followed, Am.er- ican seamen had the good fortune to wrest from us the glory, as might be the case, of solving the problem of the unfound passage, or the still greater glory of saving our adventurous navigators from a lingering fate which the mind sickens to dwell on, though 1 should in either case regret that it was not my own brave countrymen in those seas whose devotion was thus rewarded, yet should I rejoice that it was to America we owed our restored happiness, aiid should be forever bound to her by ties of affectionate gratitude. "I am not without some misgivings while I thus ad- dress you. The intense anxieties of a wife and of a daughter may have led me to press too earnestly on your notice the trials under which we are suffering, (yet not we only, but hundreds of others,) and to pre- sume too much on the sympathy which we are assured is felt beyond the limits of our own land.. "Yet, if you deem this to be the case, you will still find, I am sure, even in that personal intensity of feeling, an excuse for the fearlessness wifh which I have throwit myself on your generosity, and will pardon the hone? age I thus pay to your own high character, and to thx^' of the people over whom you have the distinction U preside. " I have, &c., (Signed) "Jai^ Feanexih-." T(^ which the following reply was received : — Mr, Clay ion to Lady Jane FranTdin. ^'' Dejoartment of State^ Washington^ " ^^th April, 1849. "Madam, — ^Your letter to the President of the United States, dated April 4th, 1849, has been received by 328 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. Lim, and tie has instructed me to make to you the fol- lowing reply : — " The appeal made in the letter with which you have honored him, is such as would strongly enlist the sym- pathy of the rulers and the people of any portion of the civilized world. " To the citizens of the United States, who share so largely in the emotions which agitate the public mind in your own country, the name of Sir John Franklin has been endeared by his heroic virtues, and the suffer- ings and sacrifices which he has encountered for the benefit of mankind. The appeal of his wife and daugh- ter, in their distress, has been borne across the waters, asking the assistance of a kindred people to save the brave men who embarked in this unfortunate expedi- tion ; and the people of the United States, who have watched with the deepest interest that hazardous enter- prise, will now respond to that appeal, by the expression of their united wishes that every proper effort may be made by this government for the rescue of your hus- band and his companions. " To accomplish the objects you have in view, the attention of American navigators, and especially of our whalers, will be immediately invoked. All the in- formation in the possession of this government, to enable them to aid in discovering the missing ships, relieving their crews and restoring them to their fami- lies, shall be spread far and wide among our people ; and all that the executive government of the United States, in the exercise of its constitutional powers, can effect, to meet this requisition on American enterprise, skill and bravery, will be promptly undertaken. " The hearts of the American people will be deeply touched by your eloquent address to their Chief Magis- trate, and they will join with you in an earnest prayer to Him whose spirit is on the waters, that your husband and his companions may yet be restored to their coun- try and their friends. " I have, &c., (Signed) " John M. Clayton." LADY FEAJSTEXIN'S APPEAL TO AMERICAN NATION. 329 A second letter was also addressed by Lady Franklin to the President in the close of that year, after the forced return of Captain Sir James Ross, from whose active exertions so much had been expected — The Lady of Sir John FravMin to the President. " Spring Gardens^ London^ 11th Deo.^ 1849. "Sir, — I had the honor of addressing myself to you, in the month of April last, in behalf of my hus- band, Sir John Franklin, his officers and crews, who were sent by Her Majesty's government, in the spring of 1845, on a maritime expedition for a discovery of the northwest passage, and who have never since been heard of. "Their mysterious fate has excited, I believe, the deepest interest throughout the civilized world, but no- where more so, not even in England itself, than in the United States of America. It was under a deep con- viction of this fact, and with the humble hope that an appeal to those general sentiments would never be made altogether in vain, that I ventured to lay before you the necessities of that critical period, and to ask you to take up the cause of humanity which I pleaded, and generously make it your own. " How nobly you, sir, and the American people, responded to that appeal, — how kindly and courteously that response was conveyed to me, — is known wherever our common language is spoken or understood ; and though difficulties, which were mainly owing to the advanced state of the season, presented themselves after your official announcement had been made known to our government, and prevented the immediate execution of your intentions, yet the generous pledge you had given was not altogether withdrawn, and hope still remained to me that, should the necessity for renewed measures continue to exist, I might look again across the waters for the needed succor. "A period has now, alas, arrived, when our dearest hopes as to the safe return of the discovery ships this autumn are finally crushed by the unexpected, though 830 PEOGRESS OF AECTIC DI6C0VEEY. forced return of Sir James Eoss, without any tidings of them, and also by the close of the arctic season. And not only have no tidings been brought of their safety or of their fate, but even the very traces of their course have yet to be discovered ; for such was the concur- rence of unfortunate and unusual circumstances attend- ing the efforts of the brave and able officer alluded to, that he was not able to reach those points where indi- cations of the course of discovery ships would most probably be found. And thus, at the close of a second (season since the departure of the recent expedition of search, we remain in nearly the same state of ignorance respecting the missing expedition as at the moment of its starting from our shores. And in the mean time our brave countrymen, whether clinging still to their ships, or dispersed in various directions, have entered upon a fifth winter in those dark and dreary solitudes, with exhausted means of sustenance, while yet their expected succor comes not ! " It is in the time, then, of their greatest peril, in the day of their extremest need, that I venture, encouraged by your former kindness, to look to you again for some active efforts which may come in aid of those of my own country, and add to the means of search. Her Majesty's Ministers have already resolved on sending an expedition to Behring's Strait, and doubtless have other necessary measures in contemplation, supported as they are, in every means that can be devised for this humane purpose, by the sympathies of the nation, and by the generous solicitude which our Queen is known to feel in the fate of her brave people imperiled in their country's service. But, whatever be the measures con- templated by the Admiralty, they cannot be such as will leave no room or necessity for more, since it is only by the multiplication of means, and those vigorous and instant ones, that we can hope, at this last stage, and in this last hour, perhaps, of the lost navigators' existence, to snatch them from a dreary grave. And surely, till the shores and seas of those frozen regions have been swept in all directions* or until some memo-% LIEtJTENANT OSBOEN's SUGGESTIONS. 831 rial be found to attest their fate, neither England, who sent them out, nor even America, on whose shores they have been launched in a cause which has interested the world for centuries, will deem the question at rest. " May it please God so to move the hearts and wills of a great and kindred people, and of their chosen Chief Magistrate, that they may join heart and hand in the generous enterprise ! The respect and admiration of the world, which watches with growing interest every movement of your great republic, will follow the chiv- alric and humane endeavor, and the blessing of them who were ready to perish shall come to you ! "I have, &c., (Signed) Jane Fkanbxin. ^^His Excellency the President of the United States^ In a very admirable letter addressed to Lady Frank- lin in February, 1850, by Lieut. Sherard Osborn, E. IS"., occur the following remarks and suggestions, which appear to me so explicit and valuable that I publish them entire : — ^^ Great Ealing^ Middlesex^ Qth February^ 1850. " My Dear Lady Franklin. — It is of course of vital importance that the generous co-operation of the Ameri- cans in the rescue of Sir John Franklin and his crews be directed to points which call for search, and at the same time give them a clear field for the exercise 'of their energy and emulation. It would be a pity, for instance, if they should be merely working on the same ground with ourselves, while extensive portions of the Arctic Sea, in which it is equally probable the lost ex- pedition may be found, should be left unexamined ; and none, in my opinion, offers a better prospect of success- ful search than the coasts of Repulse Bay, Hecla and Fury Strait, Committee Bay, Felix Harbor, the estuary of the Great Fish River, and Simpson's Strait, with the sea to the northwest of it. My reasons fdr saying so l|re as follows ; — 332 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYERY. " Suppose Sir John Franklin to have so far carried out the tenor of his orders as to have penetrated south- west from Cape Walker, and to have been either ' cast away,' or hopelessly impeded by ice, and that either in the past or present year he found it necessary to quit his ships, they being anywhere between 100° and 108° west longitude, and 70° and Y3° north latitude. Now, to retrace his steps to Cape Walker, and thence to Re- gent Inlet, would be no doubt the first suggestion that would arise. Yet there are objections to it : firstly, he would have to contend against the prevailing set of the ice, and currents, and northerly wiad ; secondly, if no whalers were found in Lancaster Sound, how was he to support his large party in regions where the musk ox or reindeer is never seen ? thirdly, leaving his ships in the summer, he knew he could only reach the whaling ground in the fall of the year ; and, in such case, would it not be advisable to make rather for the southern than the northern limit of the seas vis- ited by the whalers ? fourthly, by edging to the south rather than the north. Sir John Franklin would be falling back to, rather than going from, relief, and in- crease the probabilities of providing food for his large party. " I do not believe he would have decided on going due south, because the lofty land of Victoria Island was in his road, and when he did reach the American shore, he would only attain a desert, of whose horrors he no doubt retained a vivid recollection ; and a lengthy land journey of more than 1000 miles to the Hudson's Bay settlements was more than his men were capable of " There remains, therefore, but one route for Sir John under such circumstances to follow ; and it decidedly has the following merits, that of being in a direct line for the southern limit of the whale fishery ; that of leading through a series of narrow seas adapted for the navigation of small open boats ; that of being the most expeditious route by which to reach Fort Churchill, in Hudson's Bay ; that of leading through a region visited* 333 by Esquimaux and migratory animals ; and this route is through the ' Strait of Sir James Koss,' across the narrow isthmus of Boothia Felix, (which, as you re- minded me to-day, was not supposed to exist when Sir John Franklin left England, and has been since discov- ered,) into the Gulf of Boothia, where he could either pass by Hecla and Fury Strait into the fishing-ground of Hudson's Strait, or else go southward down Commit- tee Bay, across the Rae Isthmus into Eepulse Bay, and endeavor from there to reach some vessels in Hudson's Bay, or otherwise Fort Churchill. " It is not unlikely either, that when Franklin had got to the eastern extremity of James Ross's Strait, and found the land to be across his path where he had expected to find a strait, that his party might have di- vided, and the more active portion of them attempted to ascend the Great Fish Eiver, where we have Sir George Back's authority for supposing they would find, close to the arctic shores, abundance of food in fish, and herds of reindeer, &c., while the others traveled on the road I have already mentioned. " To search for them, therefore, on this line of retreat, I should think highly essential, and if neglected this year, it must be done next ; and if not done by the Americans, it ought to be done by us. "I therefore suggest the following plan: — Suppose a well-equipped expedition to leave America in May, and to enter Hudson's Strait, and then divide into two divisions. The first division might go northward, through Fox's Channel to Hecla and Fury Strait, exam ine the shores of the latter carefully, deposit provisions at the western extreme, erect conspicuous beacons, and proceed to Melville or Felix Harbor, in Boothia, secure their vessel or vessels, and dispatch, as soon as circum- stances would allow, boat parties across the neck of the isthmus into the western waters. Here let them divide, and one party proceed through James Koss's Strait, carefully examining the coast, and push over sea, ice, or land, to the northwest as far as possible. The other boat party to examine, the estuary of the Great 334 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEET. Fish River, and thence proceed T^estward along the coast of Simpson's Strait, and, if possible, examine the broad bay formed between it and Dease's Strait. "The second division, on parting company, might pass south of Southampton Island, and coast along fronn Chesterfield Inlet northward to Eepulse Bay, a boat party with two boats might cross Rae Isthmus into the bottom of Committee Bay, with instructions to visit both shores of the said bay, and to rendezvous at the western entrance of Hecla and Fury Strait. The sec- ond division (be it one or more vessels) should then pass into Fox's Channel, and turning through Hecla and Fury Strait, pick up the boats at the rendezvous ; and thence, if the first division have passed on all right, and do not require reinforcement, the second division should steer northward along the unknown coast, ex- tending as far as Cape Kater ; from Cape Kater pro- ceed to Leopold Island, and having secured their ships there, dispatch boat or traveling parties in a direction southwest from Cape Rennell, in North Somerset, be- ing in a parallel line to the line of search we shall adopt from Cape "Walker, and at the same time it will traverse the unknown sea beyond the Islands lately observed by Captain Sir James Ross. "Some such plan as this would, I think, insuie youi gallant husband being met or assisted, should he be to the south or the west of Cape Walker, and attempt to return by a southeast course, a direction which, I think, others as well as myself would agree in thinking a verj rational and probable one. "I will next speak of an argument which has been brought forward in consequence of no traces of the missing expedition having been discovered in Lancas- ter Sound ; that it is quite possible, if Franklin failed in getting through the middle ice from Melville Bay to Lancaster Sound, that, sooner than disappoint public anxiety and expectation of a profitable result arisin,^ from his expedition, he may have turned northward, and gone up Smith's Sound ; every mile beyond its en- trance was new ground, and therefore a reward to the DEBATE m CONGEESS. 335 discoverer. It likewise brought them nearer the pole, and may be they found that open sea of which Baron "Wrangel speaks so constantly in his journeys over the ice northward from Siberia. "It is therefore desirable that some vessels should carefully examine the entrance of this sound, and visit all the conspicuous headlands for some considerable distance within it ; for it ought to be borne in mind, that localities perfectly accessible for the purpose of erecting beacons, &c., one season, may be quite im- practicable the next, and Franklin, late in the season and pressed for time, would not have wasted time, scal- ing bergs to reach the shore and pile up cairns, of which, in all the sanguine hope of success, he could not have foreseen the necessity. " Should any clue be found to the lost expedition in this direction, to follow it up would, of course, be the duty of the relieving party, and every thing would de- pend necessarily upon the judgment of the commanders. "In connection with this line of search, I think a small division pf vessels, starting from Spitzbergen, and pushing from it in a northwest direction^ might be of great service ; for on reference to the chart, it will be seen that Spitzbergen is as near the probable position of Franklin (if he went north about,) on the east, as Behring's Strait is upon the west ; and the probability of reaching the me'ridian of 80° west from Spitzbergen is equally as good as, if not better than, Behring's Strait, and, moreover, a country capable of supporting life always in the rear to fall back upon. "Sheraed Oseokn, "Lieutenant Koyal IS^avy. "To Lady Franklin." Debate in the Americait Congress. The following remarks of honorable members and senators, in defense of the bill for carrying out Mr. Grinnell's expedition, will explain the gi-ounds on which the government countenance was invoked for the noble imdertaking : — 336 PKOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEKY. " Mr. Miller, : I prefer that the government should have the entire control of this enterprise ; but, Sir, I do not think that can be accomplished ; at all events, it cannot within the time required to produce the good results which are to be hoped from this expedition. It is well known to all that the uncertain fate of Sir John Franklin and his companions has attracted the attention and called forth the sympathies of the civilized world. This government, Sir, has been indifferent to the call. An application, an appeal was made to this government of no ordinary character ; one which was cheerfully entertained by the President, and which he was anxiou? should be complied with. But it is known to the coun try and to the Senate that, although the President had eYery disposition to send out an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin, it was found upon inquiry that we had no ships fitted for the occasion, and that the Executive had no authority to procure them for an ex- pedition of this kind, and suitable for this sort of navi- gation. The Executive was therefore obliged, for want of authority to build the ships, to forego further action on this noble enterprise, until Congress should meet, and authorize the expedition. "In the mean time, Mr. Grinnell, one of the most respectable and worthy merchants of the city of lN"ew York, understanding the difficulty that the government had in fitting out the expedition, has gone to work, and with his own means has built t\^o small vessels espe- cially prepared for the expedition ; and he now most generously tenders them to the government, not to be under his own control, but the control of the govern- ment, and to be made part of the navy of the United States. The honorable senator from Alabama (Mr. King) is mistaken with regard to the terms and effect of this resolution. This resolution places these two ships under the control of the government, as much BO as if they were built expressly for the navy of the United States. Their direction, their fitting out, their officers and m^n, are all to be under the control of the Executive. Their officers are to be offictfrs of our DEBATE IN CONGRESS. S8T navy — their seamen the seamen of our navy — so that the expedition will be as thoroughly under the control of this government as if the ships belonged to us. ]N^ow, Sir, I should have no objections myself to amend this resolution so as to authorize the purchase of these two small vessels at once, and make them a part of our na- val establishment ; but, when I recollect the magnani- mous feeling which urged this noble-hearted merchant to prepare these ships, I know that that same feeling would forbid him to make merchandise of that which he has devoted to humanity. He offers them for this great cause ; they are his property, prepared for this enterprise, and he offers them to us to be used by the government in this great undertaking. We must either accept them for the purpose to which he has dedicated them, or reject them altogether. If we refuse these ships, we will defeat the whole enterprise, and lose all opportunity of participation in a work of humanity which now commands the attention of the world. " If we refer this resolution back to the committee, and they report a bill authorizing government to build ships to carry on the expedition on its own account, it would be attended with very great delay, and, in my opinion defeat the object we have in view. In a case of this kind time is every thing. It must be done speed- ily, if done at all. Every hour's delay may be worth the life of a man. Sir John Franklin and his compan- ions may ere this have perished, but our hope is that they are still living in some narrow sea, imprisoned by walls of ice, where our succor may yet reach them. But, Sir, whether our hopes are fallacious or not, the public feeling — the feeling of humanity — is, that the fate of Sir John Franklin should, if possible, be ascer- tained, and as soon as possible. The public mind will never be satisfied till an expedition from this country, or from some other country, shall have ascertained their fate. I therefore trust that this resolution, as it is, will be acted upon at once, and that it will receive the unanimous vote of the Senate. * * * * " I am so impressed Mr. President, with the impor- 22 338 PKOGKESS OF AECTIO DISCOVERT. tance of time as regards the disposal of this question, that I hesitate even to occupy the attention of the Senate for a few moments ; and I only do so for the pm^pose of correcting some views which have been ex- pressed by the senator from Mississij)pi* ^ * -^ The question is, whether we shall adopt this resolution, and immediately send forth this expedition for the purpose of accomplishing this great object, or whether w^e shall throw back this resolution to drag its slow course through Congress, in the form of another bill, to make an appropriation for the purpose of building vessels. For what object? To secure, as the senator says, to the United States, the sole honor and glory of this expedi- tion. Sir, if this expedition is got up merely for honor and glory either to the United States or to an individual, I will have nothing whatever to do with it. Sir, there is a deeper and a higher sentiment that has induced the action of Congress on this subject. It is to engage in a great work of humanity, to do that which is not only being done by the government of England, but by pri- vate individuals, who are fitting out expeditions at their own expense, and sending them to the northern seas, for the purpose of discovering the fate of this great man, who had periled his life in the cause of science and of commerce. " Mr President, I have been informed that a private expedition is now being fitted out in England under the direction of that great commander, or I may call him the king of the Polar Seas, Sir John Poss, who is going again to devote himself and his life to this perilous ex- pedition. Sir, altogether I have not had heretofore much confidence in the success of this expedition, yet when I consider the reputation of Sir John Poss, and the fact that he is better acquainted with those seas than any other man living, and understanding that he entertains the belief that Sir John Franklin and his companions are yet alive, and may be rescued, — I say, finding such a man as Sir John Poss engaged in an ex- pedition of this kind, I am not without hope that our efforts maj^, under Providence, be crowned with success. DEBATE IN CONGEESS. 339 But the honorable senator says that nothing is likely to be derived from this expedition but honor and glory, and that that is to be divided between the government of the United States and a private individual. Sir, is there nothing to be derived from the performance of an act of humanity but honor and glory ? Sir, it is said that in this instance both the government and the indi- vidual alluded to are engaged in the same work. Well, Sir, what objection can there be to that connection? Does the honorable senator from Mississippi envy the individual his share of the honor and glory ? Does he desire to monopolize it all to the United States ? I hope he has no such feeling as that. " But, Mr. President, the honorable senator made use of an expression which I think he will withdraw. He intimated, if I understood him rightly, some suspicion that this was a matter of speculation on the part of Mr. Grinnell. " Mr. FooTE : I said I had heard such a thing sug- gested ; but I do not make any such charge myself. " Mr. Miller : I have heard this urged as an objec- tion heretofore, but I am satisfied that if the senator from Mississippi knew the character and the history of this gentleman, he would not even repeat that he had heard such an insinuation. Sir, although this is a liberal donation from an individual, the sum need not alarm gentlemen about after claims. These ships are but small ships ; and it is necessary that they should be small in order that they may be effective. One of them is, I understand, 150 tons, and the other 90 tons. They have cost, I believe, 30,000 dollars. ISTow, when we find this merchant devoting his property, not for the purpose of building ships to convey merchandise to the markets of the w^oiid ; when we find him retiring from the ordinary course of commercial pursuit in which all the world is engaged, and devoting a portion of his fortune to the building of ships that can be used for no other purpose but in this voyage of humanity, can it be imagined that any thought of speculation on his part could' have influenced his conduct ? No, Sir. On the 340 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. contrary, it is a high and worthy motive ; and I think it ought to receive the approbation of this and all other intelligent Christian nations, to see a merchant, who, while the commercial world are encompassing the globe by sea and land in quest of profit and of gold, is dedicating himself to his great object, and devoting a part of his fortune to the cause of humanity, and offer- ing to government, not as a bounty, but because the government, with all its means, has not the power and the time to prepare vessels to do this work. That, Sir, is the object. " JSTow, if we do not accept these ships, there will be an end of this expedition. Sir, shall it be said, that this government has lost such an opportunity as this of exhibiting the deep interest which our people feel both in the cause of science and humanity, and that, too, at the very time when we are entering into treaties and com- pacts with all the commercial nations of the world, for the purpose of extending commerce and civilization, and opening communications of trade from sea to sea? When the government is not only doing all by its own power, but also acting in concert with our private citi- zens in constructing rail-roads and canals, and by vari- ous other modes extending commercial civilization throughout the world, shall it be said that we, at this moment, refused, through the fear of losing a little honor and glory and national dignity, to accept two ships — the only two ships in America that can do the work — in the accomplishment of this great enterprise ? I hope not. Let ns not, then, cavil and waste time about these little matters. If the work is to be done at all it must be done now, and done, as I conceive, by the adoption of this resolution. GovERNOE Sewaed spokc as follows in the Senate on the same subject: — "I am happy to perceive, Mr. President, indications all around the chamber that there is no disagreement in regard to the importance, or in relation to the propriety, of a search on the part of this nation, by the government itself, or by individual citi- zens, for the lost and heroic navigator. Since so much DEBATE m CONGRESS. 341 fs conceded, and since I come from the State whence this proposition emanates, I desire to notice, in a very few words, the objections raised against the mode of carrying the proposed design into effect. It is always the case, I think, when great objects and great enter- prises which are feasible are hindered or defeated, that they are hindered or defeated, not so much by want of agreement concerning the measures themselves, as by diversity of opinion concerning the mode of carrying them into execution. Since this is so generally the case, the rule which I always adopt, and which seems to be a safe one, is, that where I cannot have my own way of obtaining a great public object, I will accept the best other way which opens before me. J^ow, I cordially agree with those honorable Stnatctrs who would have preferred that at some appropriate time, and in some proper and unobjectionable manner, the government should have moved for the attainment of this object, as a government, and have made it exclu- sively the act of the nation. And I would have pre- ferred this, not so much on account of the glory that it is supposed would have followed it, as because of the beneficence of the enterprise. Enterprises which spring from a desire of glory are very apt to end in disappointment. True national glory is always safely attained by prosecuting beneficent designs, whatever may be their success. I say. Sir, then, that I would have preferred the alternative suggested ; but the fact is, without stopping to inquire where the fault lies, or whether there be fault at all, the government has not moved, and the reason which has been assigned is, I have no doubt, the true one. I do not know that it has ever been contradicted or called in question ; that reason is, that the Navy of the United States contains no vessels adapted to the enterprise, but consists of ships constructed and fitted for very different objects and purposes than an exploring expedition amid the ice-bound seas of the arctic pole. Our naval marine consists of vessels adapted to the purposes of convoys, military armament, and the suppression of the slave- 342 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEET. trade on the coast of Africa. The executive portions of the government failed for want of vessels suitable to be ernploj^ed in this particular service. It therefore devolved upon the Legislature of the United States. But, although we have been here now nearly five months, no Committee of either House, no member of either House of Congress has proposed to equip a na- tional fleet for this purpose. "While this fact exists on one side, it is to be remarked on the other, that the time has arrived in which the movement must be made if it is to be made at all, and also that a careful inves- tigation, made by scientific and practical men, has re- vived the hope in Europe and America that the humane object can be attained. There can, then, be no delay allowed for considering whether the manner for carry- ing the design into effect could not be changed. Let us, then, practically survey the case as it comes before us. The government of the United States has really no vessels adapted to the purpose. To say nothing of the expense, the government has not time to provide, prepare, or equip vessels for the expedition. Under such circumstances, a citizen of the United States •tenders to the government vessels of his own, precisely adequate in number, and exactly fitted in construction and equipment, for the performance of the duty to be assumed. Since he oflTers them to the government, what reason can we assign for refusing them? No reason can be assigned, except that he is too generous, and off*ers to give us the use of the vessels instead of demanding compensation for it. Well, Sir, if we do accept them it can be immediately carried into execu- tion, with a cheering prospect of attaining the great object wliich the United States and the civilized world have such deep interest in securing. Then the ques- tion resolves itself into this — the question raised by the honorable Senator from Alabama (Mr. King) — whether, in seeking so beneficent an object, it is con- sistent with the dignity of the nation to combine indi- vidual action with a national enterprise. I do not think, Mr. President, that that honorable Senator will DEBATE IM CONGRESS. 343 find himself obliged to insist upon this objection after he shall have carefully examined the bill before us. He will find that it converts the undertaking into a national enterprise. The vessels are to be accepted not as individual property, but as national vessels. They will absolutely cease to be under the direction, management, or control of the owners, and will become at once national ships, and for the time, at least, and for all the purposes of the expedition, a part of the national marine. "E"ow, Sir, have we ry^t postal arrangements with various foreign countries carried into effect in the same way, and is the dignity of the nation compromised by them ? During the war with Mexico, the government continually hired ships and steamboats from citizens foi military operations. Is the glory of that war tarnished uy the use of those means ? The government in this case, as in those cases, is in no sense a partner. It assumes the whole control of the vessels, and the enter- prise becomes a national one. The only circumstance remaining to be considered is, whether the government can accept the loan of the service of the vessels without making compensation. N"ow, Sir, I should not have had the least objection, and, indeed, it would have been more agreeable to me if the government could have made an arrangement to have paid a compensation. But I hold it to be quite unnecessary in the present case because the character of the person who tenders these vessels, and the circumstances and manner of the whole transaction, show that it is not a speculation. IS'o compensation is wanted. It would only be a cere- mony on the part of the government to offer it, and a ceremony on the part of the merchant to decline it. I am, therefore, willing to march directly to the object, and to assume that these ceremonies have been duly performed, that the government has offered to pay, and the noble-spirited merchant declined to receive. " jN^ow, then, is there any thing derogatory from the dignity and independence of this nation in employing the vessels? Certainly not, since that employment is 34:4: PJROGKESS OF AEQTIC DISCOVERY, indispensable. If it were not indispensable I do not think that the dignity of the Republic would be im- paired ; I think, on the contrary, that it would be en- hanced and elevated. It is a transaction wortliy of the nation, a spectacle deserving the contemplation and respect of mankind, to see that not only does the nation prosecute, but that it has citizens able and wdlling to contribute, voluntarily and without compulsion, to an enterprise so interesting to the cause of science and of humanity. It is indeed a new and distinct cause for national pride, that an individual citizen, not a merchant prince, as he w^ould be called in some other countries, but a republican merchant, comes forward in this way and moves the government and co-operates with it. It illustrates the magnanimity of the nation and of the citizen. Sir, there is nothing objectionable in this fea- ture of the transaction. It results from the character of the government, which is essentially poj^ular, that there are perpetual debates on the question how far measures and enterprises, for the purposes of humanity and science, are consistent with the constitutional or- ganization of the government, although they are ad^ mitted to be eminently compatible with the dignity, character, and intelligence of the nation. All our en- terprises, more or less, are carried into execution, if they are carried into execution at all, not by the direct action of the government, but by the lending of its favor, countenance, and aid to individuals, to corpora- tions, and to States. Thus it is that we construct rail- roads and canals, and found colleges and universities. " ISTor is this mode of prosecuting enterprises of great pith and moment peculiar to this government. There was a navigator who went forth from a port in Spain, some three or four hundred years ago, on an enterprise quite as doubtful and quite as perilous as this. After trying unsuccessfully several States, he was forced to be content with the sanction, and little more than the sanc- tion and patronage of the Court of Madrid. The scanty treasures devoted to that undertaking were the ])rivate contributions of a Queen and her subjects, and the ves- DEBATE IN CONGRESS. 345 Bcls were fitted out and manned at the expense of mer- chants and citizens, which gave a new world to the kingdom of Castile and Leon. " Entertaining these views now, whatever my opinion might have been under other circumstances, 1 shall vote against a recommittal, and in favor of the bill, as tlie surest way of preventing its defeat, and of attaining the sublime and beneficent object which it contemplates." The committee of both Houses of Congress, to whom Mr. GrinnelPs petition for men and supplies was re- ferred, made a unanimous report in favor ; and the vessels left on their daring and generous errand. The following are the joint resolutions which passed both Houses of Congress and were approved by Gen- eral Taylor, authorizing the President of the United States to accept and attach to the U. S. JS'avy the two vessels, ofiered by Mr. Grinnell, to be sent to the arctic seas in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions: " Resolved by the Senate and House of Eepresent- atives of the United States of America in Congress assembled. That the President be, and he is hereby authorized and directed, to receive from Henry Grinnell, of the city of New York, the two vessels prepared by him for an expedition in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, and to detail from the Navy such commissioned and warrant oflicers, and so many sea- men as may be necessary for said expedition, and wlio may be willing to engage therein. The said officers and men shall be furnished with suitable rations, at tlie discretion of the President, for a jDcriod not exceeding three years, and shall have the use of such necessary instruments as are now on hand and can be spared from the Navy, to be accounted for or returned by the ofli- cers who shall receive the same. " Sec. 2. Be it further resolved. That tlie said vessels, ofiicers, and men shall be in all respects under the laws and regulations of the Navy of the United States until their return, when the said vessels shall be delivered to the said Henry Grinnell : Provided, That the United States shall not be liable to any claim for compensation 346 PKOGKESS OF AUCTIC DISCOVEKY. in case of the loss, damage or deterioration of tlie said vessels, or either of them, from any cause or in any manner whatever, nor be liable to any demand for the use or risk of the said vessels or either of them." Directly the fact became known that the American government had nobly come forward to aid in the search which was being so strenuously made, the different learned societies of the metropolis vied with each other in testifying the estimation in which this noble conduct was held. At the annual meeting of the "Royal Society, on the 7th of June, upon the motion of Sir Charles Lennox, seconded by the late Marquis of Northampton, a vote of thanks was carried with the utmost enthusiasm, ex- pressive of the gratitude of tlie Society to the American government, and of their deep sense of the kind and brotherly feeling which had prompted so liberal an act of humanity. A similar vote was carried, on the 11th of June, at a general meeting of the Royal Geograph- ical Society, (of which Sir John Franklin was long one of the vice-presidents.) The American expedition consists of two brigan tines — now enrolled in the United States JSTavy — the Ad- vance, of IM tons, and the Rescue, 91 tons. These vessels have been provided and fitted out by the gener- ous munificence of Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of New York, at an expense to him of between 5000Z. and 6000Z. The American government also did much to- tvard fitting and equi23ping them. The Advance was fcwo years old, and the Rescue quite new. Both vessels were strengthened in every part, and put in the most complete order for the service in which they were to be ena^aged. They are under the command of Lieutenant Edward S. De Haven, who was emploj^ed in Com- mander Wilkes' expedition in 1843 ; Mr. S. P. Griffin, acting master, has charge of the Rescue. The otliei officers of the expedition are Messrs. W. PL Murdaugh, acting-master ; T. W. Broadhead, and R. R. Carter, passed midshipmen ; Dr. E. K. Kane, passed assistant- surgeon ; Mr. Benjamin Finland, assistant-surgeon ; W THE AMEKICAN EXPEDITIOiq-. 347 S Lovell, midshipman ; H. Brooks, boatswain ; and a cornplement of thirty-six seamen in the two vessels — the crew of the Advance consisting of fifteen men, and the Rescue thirteen men. The vessels left New York on the 25th of May, 1850. Their proposed destination is through Barrow's Strait, westward to Oape Walker, and round Melville Island. They were provisioned for three years. Whatever may be the result ,of this* expedition, as connected with the fate of the gallant Sir John Frank- lin, it is one which reflects the highest honor upon the philanthropic individual who projected it, and upon the officers and men engaged therein. A dispatch has been received frona Lieutenant De Haven,- dated off Leopold Island, August 22d, which reports the progress of the expedition thus far. The Advance, in company with her consort, the Rescue, sailed from the Whale Fish Islands oh the 29th of June; after man}'- delays and obstructions from calms, stream ice, and the main pack, they forced a passage through it for a considerable distance, but at last got wedged up in the pack immovably until the 29th of July, when by a sudden movement of the floes, an opening pre- sented itself, and under a press of sail the vessels forced their way into clear water. They encountered a heavy gale, which, with a thick fog, made their situation very dangerous, the huge masses of ice being driven along by the strength of the wind and current with great fury. By the aid of warping in calm weather, they reached Cape Yorke on the 15th of August, and a little to the eastward met with two Esquimaux, but could not understand much from them. Between Cape Yorke and Cape Dudley Diggs, while delayed by calms, being in open water, they hauled the ships into the shore at the Crimson Cliffs of Beverley, (so named from the red snow on them,) and filled their water casks from a mountain stream. On the 18th, with a fair wind, they shaped their course for the western side of Baffin's Bay, and met the pack in streams and very loose, which they cleared entirely by 84:8 PKOGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. the following day — getting into the north waters, where they fell in with Captain Penny's two vessels, which having been unsuccessful in their efforts to enter Jones' Sound, were now taking the same course up Lancaster Sound. On the 19th, in a violent gale, the Advance parted company with the Rescue. On the morning of the 21st of August, the fog cleared, and Lieutenant De Haven found he was off Cape Crawford, on the south ern shore of the Sound. Here he fell in with the Felix schooner, under Captain Sir John Ross, from whom he learned that Commodore Austin was at Pond's Bay with two of his vessels, seeking for information, while the other two had been dispatched to examine the north shore of the Sound. Lieutenant De Haven proposed proceeding on from Port Leopold to "Wellington Chan- nel, the appointed place of rendezvous with his consort. Captain Forsyth's Remarkable Yoyage in the "Prince Albert." In April, 1850, a branch expedition to aid those ves- sels sent out by the government was determined on by Lady Franklin, who contributed largely toward its out- fit ; a considerable sum being also raised by public subscription. The expenses of this expedition were nearly 4000^., of which 2500^. were contributed by Lady Franklin herself The object of this expedition was the providing for the search of a portion of the Arctic Sea, which it was distinctly understood could not be executed by the vessels under Captain Austin ; but the importance of which had been set forth, by arctic and other authorities, in documents printed in the Parlia- mentary Papers. The unprovided portion alluded to, includes Regent Inlet, and the passages connecting it with the western sea, James Ross's Strait, and other localities, S. W. of Cape Walker, to which quarter Sir John Franklin was required by his instructions to proceed in the first in- stance. This search is assumed to be necessary on the following grounds : — VOYAGE OF THE PEIITCE ALBERT. 34:9 1. The probability of Sir John Franklin having abandoned his vessels to the S. W. of Cape Walker. 2. The fact that, in his charts, an open passage is laid down from the west into the south part of Regent Inlet. 3. Sir John Franklin would be more likely to take this course through a country known to possess the re- sources of animal life, with the wreck of the Yictory in Felix Harbor for fuel, and the stores of Fury Beach farther north in view, than to fall upon an utterly barren region of the north coast of America. 4. He would be more likely to expect succor to be sent to him by way of Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, into which Regent Inlet opens, than in any other direction. In corroboration of the necessity of this part of tho search, I would refer generally to the Parliamentary papers of 1848-9 and 50. As an individual opinion, I may quote the words of Captain Beechey, p. 31 of the first series. " If, in this condition," (that of being hopelessly blocked up to the S. W. of Cape Walker,) " which I trust may not be the case, Sir John Franklin should resolve upon taking to his boats, he would prefer attempting a boat navigation through Sir James Ross's Strait, and up Regent Inlet, to a long land journey across the continent to the Hudson Bay Settlements, to which the greater part of his crew would be wholly unequal." And again, in his letter to the Secretary of the Admiralty, 7th of February, 1850, Captain Beechey writes, « * * * * the bottom of Regent Inlet, about the Pelly Islands, should not be left unexamined. [n the memorandum submitted to their Lordships, 17th of January, 1849, this quarter was considered of im- portance, and I am still of opinion that had Sir John Franklin abandoned his vessels near the coast of America, and much short of the Mackenzie River, he would have preferred the probability of retaining the use of his boats until he found relief in Barrow's Strait, to risking an overland journey via the before-men- tioned river ; and it must be remembered that at the 350 PEOGJRESS OF AECTIC DISCOVEEY. time be sailed, Sir George Back's discovery had ren- dered it very probable that Boothia was an island. The memorandum alluded to by Captain Beechey as having been submitted to the Lords of the Admi- I'alty on the 17th of January, 1849, was, the expression of the unanimous opinion of the arctic officers assem- bled by command of the Admiralty to deliberate upon- the best means to be taken for the relief of the missing expedition ; and in this report, clause 14 is expressly devoted to the recommendation of the search of Begent Inlet. The necessity for the proposed search may be thus further developed. Sir John Franklin may have aban- doned his ships, when liis provisions were nearly ex- hausted somewhere about the latitude of 73° N., long. lOo'^ W". ; in short, at any point S. W. of Cape Walker, not farther "W. than long. 110°. And in such case, rather than return north, (which might be indeed im- practicable) or moving south upon the American Con- tinent, of which (upon the coast,) the utter barrenness was already well known to him, he might prefer a southeastern course, with a view of passing in his boats, either through James Boss's, or through Simpson's Straits, into the Gulf of Boothia, and so up into Begent Inlet to the house and stores left at Fury Beach, the only depot of provisions known to him. The advantages of such a course might appear to him very great. 1. Two open passages being laid down in his charts into Begent Inlet, by James Boss's Strait, and by Simp- son's Strait, a means of boat transport for his party would be afforded, of which alone perhaps their ex- hausted strength and resources might admit; such a course would obviously recommend itself to a com- mander who had experienced the frightful difficulties of a land journey in those regions. 2. The proposed course would lead through a part, the Isthmus of Boothia, in which animal life is known at some seasons to abound. 3. The Esquimaux who have been found on the Isthmus of Boothia are extremely well disposed and friendly. VOYAGE OF THE PEINCE ALBEET. 35i 4. It is the direct route toward the habitual yearly resort of the whalers on the west coast of Baffin's Bay and Davis' Strait; indeed those ships occasionally de- scend Regent Inlet to a considerable distance south. 5. There are two persons attached to the expedition who are well acquainted with this region and its re- . sources — viz., Mr. Blanky, ice master, and Mr. Mac- Donald, assistant surgeon, of the Terror. The former was with Sir John Ross in the Victory. The latter has made several voyages in whaling vessels and is acquainted with the parts lying between Regent Inlet and Davis' Strait. IV here so few among the crews of the missing ships have had any local experience, the concurrent knowledge of two persons would have considerable weight. 6. Opinions are very greatly divided as to the part m which Sir John Franklin's party may have been ar- rested, and as to the course they may have taken in consequence. It would be therefore manifestly unfair, and most dangerous, to reason out and magnify any one hypothesis at the expense of the others. The plan here alluded to sought to provide for the probability of the Expedition having been stopped shortly after passing to the southwest of Cape Walker. The very open season of 1845 was followed by years of unusual severity until , 1849. It is therefore very possible that retreat as well as onward progress has been impossible — that safety alone has become their last object. The hope of rescu- ing them in their last extremity depends, then, (as far as human means can insure it,) on the multiplying of simultaneous efforts in every direction. Captain Aus- tin's vessels will, if moving in pairs, take two most im- portant sections only, of the general search, and will •find they have enough to do to reach their several points of operation this season. The necessity for this search was greatly enhanced ^y the intelligence received about this time in England of the arrival of Mr. Rae and Commander Pullen at the Mackenzie River, thus establishing the fact, that Sir John Franklin's party had not reached any part of 352 PE0GEES8 OF ARCTIC DISCOVERT. the coast between Behring's Strait and the Coppermine 'Riv«r, while the check which Mr. Kae received in his course to the north of the Coppermine, tended to give increased importance to the quarter eastward of that position. Commander Charles Codrington Forsyth, R. 1^., an entei^3rising young officer, who had not long previously • been promoted in consequence of his arduous services in surveying on the Australian, African, and American shores, and who had rendered good service to the gov- ernment by landing supplies on the east coast of Africa, under circumstances of great difficulty during the Kafir war, had volunteered unsuccessfully for all the govern- ment expeditions, but was permitted by the Admiralty to command this private branch expedition, in which he embarked without fee or reward — on the noble and honorable mission of endeavoring to relieve his long- imprisoned brother officers. The Prince Albert, a small clipper vessel of about ninety tons, originally built by Messrs. White, of Cowes, in October, 1848, for the. fruit trade, was accordingly hastily fitted out and dispatched from Aberdeen, and Captain Forsyth was instructed to winter, if possible, in Brentford Bay, in Regent Inlet, and thence send parties to explore the opposite side of the isthmus and the various shores and bays of the Inlet- She had a * crew of twenty, W. Kay and "W. Wilson acting as first and second mates, and Mr. W. P. Snow as clerk. She sailed on the 5th of June, and was consequently the last vessel that left, and yet is the first that has reached home, having also brought some account of the track of Franklin's expedition. The Prince Albert arrived off Cape Farewell, July^ 2d, entered the ice on the 19th, and on the 21st, came up with Sir John Ross in a labyrinth of ice. She pro- ceeded up Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Strait, fell in with most of the English ships in those seas, and also with the American brig Advance, sailing some time in company, and attempted to enter Regent Inlet and Wel- lington Channel. She left the Advance aground near VOYAGE OF THE PKINCE AlBERT. 353 Cape Riley, at the entrance of Wellington Channel, though not in a situation supposed to be dangerous. Commander Forsyth, in his official letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, says that " traces of the missing ex- pedition nnder Sir John Franklin had been found at Cape Kiley and Beechey Island, at the entrance to the Wellington Channel. We observed five places where tents had been pitched, or stones placed as if they had been used for keeping the lower part of the tents down, also great quantities of beef, pork, and birds' bones, a piece of rope, with the Woolwich naval mark on it, (yellow,) part of which I have inclosed." Having en- tered Wellington Channel, and examined the coast as far as Point Innis, and finding no further traces of the missing vessels, and it being impracticable to penetrate further to the w^est. Commander Forsyth returned to Re gent Inlet, but meeting no opening there, the season oeing near at hand when the ice begins to form, and his vessel not of a strength which would enable it to resist a heavy pressure of ice, he determined on return- ing without further delay to England, after examining a number of points along the coast. On the 25th of August, a signal staff being observed on shore at Cape Riley, Mr. Snow was sent by Captain Forsyth to examine it. He found that the Assistance, Captain Ommaney, had been there two days before, and had left the following notice : — " This is to certify that Captain Ommaney, with the officers of her Majesty's ships Assistance and Intrepid, landed upon Cape Riley on the 23d August, 1850, where he found traces of encampments, and collected the re- mains of materials, which evidently proved that some party belonging to her Majesty's ships had been de- tained on that spot. Beechey Island was also examined, where traces were found of the same party. This is also to give notice that a supply of provisions and fuel .« at Cape Riley. Since 15th August, they have ex- amined the north shore of Lancaster Sound and Bar- low's Strait, without meeting with any other traces »* Captain Ommaney proceeds to Cape Hotham and Cape 23 354: PKOGEESS OF AKCTIO DISCO YERY. Walker in search of further traces of Sir John Frank- lin's expedition. Dated on board her Majesty's ship Assistance, off Cape Riley, the 23d August, 1850." The seamen who were dispatched from the Assistance to examine these remains, found a rope with the naval mark, evidently belonging to a vessel which had been fitted out at Woolwich, and which, in all probability, was either the Erebus or the Terror. Other indications were also noticed, which showed that some vessel had visited the place besides the Assistance. Captain For- syth left a notice that the Prince Albert had called off Cape Riley on the 25th of August, and then bore up to the eastward. Captain Forsyth landed at Posses- sion Bay on the 29th August, but nothing was foimd there to repay the search instituted. The Prince Albert arrived at Aberdeen, on the 22d of October, after a quick passage, having been absent something less than four months. Captain Forsyth proceeded to London by the mail train, taking with him, for the information of the Ad- miralty, the several bones, (beef, pork, &c.,) which were found on Cape Riley, together with a piece of rope of about a foot and a half in length, and a small piece of canvas with the Queen's mark upon it, both in an ex- cellent state of preservation ; placing it almost beyond a doubt that they were left on that spot by the expedi- tion under Sir John Franklin. cJaptain Forsyth, during his short trip, explored re- gions which Sir James Ross was unable to reach tbti previous year. He was at Wellington Channel, and penetrated to Fury Beach, where Sir E. Parry aban- doned his vessel, (the Fury,) in 1825, after she had taken the ground. It is situated in about 72° 40' 'N. latitude, and 91° 50' W. longitude. This is a point 'vhich has not been reached by any vessel for twenty years past. It was found, however, utterly impossible to land there on account of the packed ice. The whole of the coasts of Bafiin's Bay have also now been visited without result. The intelligence which Capt. Forsyth brought home YOTAGE OF THE PEmCE ALBERT. 355 has, as a matter of course, excited the raost intense in- terest in naval circles, and among the friends and rela- tives of the parties absent in the Erebns and Terror, the more so inasmuch as it has been ascertained at Chatham Dockyard that the rope which Captain For- syth found on the spot when he visited it, and copied Capt. Ommaney's notice, is proved by its yellow mark to have been manufactured there, and certainly since 1824 ; and moreover, from inquiries instituted, very strong evidence has been elicited in favor of the belief that the rope was made between the years 1841 and 1819. That the trail of the Franklin expedition, oi some detachment of it, has been struck, there cannot be the slightest doubt in the mind of any one who has read the dispatches and reports. That Captain Om- maney felt satisfied on this score is evident from the terms of the paper he left behind him. The squadron, it appears, were in full cry upon the scent on the 25th of August, and we must wait patiently, but anxiously, for the next accounts of the results of their indefatiga^ ble researches, which can hardly reach us from Bax'- row's Strait before the autumn of 1851. There can be no doubt now in the mind of any one, that the Arctic Searching Expeditions have at length come upon traces^ if not the track of Sir John Frank- lin. The accounts brought by Captain Forsyth must have at least satisfied the most desponding that there is still hope left — that the ships have not foundered in Baffin's Bay, at the outset of the voyage, nor been crushed in the ice, and burned by a savage tribe of Esquimaux, who had murdered the crew. That the former might hsiYe happened, all must admit ; but to the latter, few, we imagine, will give their assent, not- withstanding the numerous cruel rumors promulgated Irom time to time. It would be idle to dwell upon so impossible an event. "Where could this savage tribe spring from ? Mr. Saunders describes the natives of Wolstenholme Sound as the most miserable and help- less of mortals. They had no articles obtained from. Europeans ; and he was of opinion that therr were no 856 PKOGEESS OF AKCTIC DISCOVEEY. settlements further north ; and if there were, doubtless they would be even mgre impotent than these wretched beings. That the ship might have foundered all must admit. The President did so with many a gallant soul on board. . The Avenger ran on the Sorelli, and 300 brave fellows, in an instant, met with a watery grave ; and till the sea shall give up her dead, who' can count the thousands that lie beneath the billows of the mighty ocean ? We have now certain evidence that Franklin's ships did not founder — --not, at least, in Baffin's Ba^^ ; and our own belief, (says a well-informed and compe- tent writer in the Morning Herald,) is that the pennant still floats in the northern breeze, amid eternal regions of snow and ice. The voyage performed by the Prince Albert has thus been the means of keeping alive our hopes, and of in- forming us, up to a certain point, of the progress of the expeditions, and the situation of the different ships, of which we might have been left in a state of utter ignorance till the close of this year. Every thing con- nected with the navigation of the arctic seas is a chance, coupled, of course, with skill ; and in looking at this voyage performed by Lady Franklin's little vessel, it must be obvious to every one that Captain Forsyth has had the chance of an open season, and the skill to make use of it. " Live a thousand years," and we may never see such another voyage performed. "We have only to look at all that have preceded. Parry, it is true, in one year ran to Melville Island, and passing a winter, got liack to England the following season — and this is at present the ne plus ultra of arctic navigation. Sir John Ross, we know, went out in the Yictory to Regent Lilet, and was frozen in for four years, and all the world gave him up for lost — but "there's life in the old dog yet," as the song has it. Sir James Ross was frozen in at Leopold Harbor, and only got out, aftc* passing a winter, to be carried away in a floe of ice into Baffin's Bay, which no human skill could prevent. TOYAGE OF THE PRINCE ALBERT. 357 Sir George Back was to make a snminer's cruise to Wager Inlet, and return to England. The result every one knows or may make themselves acquainted with, by reading the fearful voyage of the Terror, an ab- stract of which I have already given. It would be superfluous to enumerate many other of our series of polar voyages, but it is pretty evident that Captain Forsyth's voyage, performed in the summer months of 1850, will be handed down to posterit}^ as one of the most remarkable, if not the most remarkable, that has ever been accomplished in the arctic seas — the expe- dition consisting of one solitary small vessel. The main object of the voyage, it is true, has not been accomplished, but as all the harbors in Regent Inlet were frozen up, and it was utterly impossible to cut through a vast tract of ice, extending for perhaps four or five miles, to get the ship to a secure anchor- age, under these circumstances, Captain Forsyth had no alternative but to return, and in doing so, he has, in the opinion of all the best-informed oflacers, dis- played great good sense and judgment rather than re- main frozen in at the Wellington Channel, where he only went to reconnoiter, and where he had no business whatever, his instructions being confined to Eegent Inlet. ^ ^ . , ; Lady Franklin purposes, if she can raise sufiicient funds, to send out another boat expedition this spring to Regent Inlet, to prosecute the search in the regions to which we have before alluded, and on which she places so much reliance. The party, under the charge of Mr. Kennedy, will probably winter in Brentford Bay or some other convenient place, and carry on the search- ing operations on the opposite shores of Boothia, as the season permits. But her ladyship's income has been so largely drawn upon by the various enormous expenses she has been put to, that it is doubtful whether she will be able to carry out her views without assistance from the public. I sincerely trust that the generosity and chivalry of the people of England, which has displayed its sympa 358 PKOGEESS OF AECTIQ DISCOVERT. thies with the distressed soldier and the weather-bound seamen on so many occasions, and in so many splendid and richly-endowed institutions, will not allow thia noble-minded lady to exhaust her private resources in the equipment of expeditions which are deemed so important and necessary, but that they will come for- ward and relieve her, recollecting that the expedition is required in search of two of her Majesty's ships, sent out on their arduous service by the government of the country, and 7mder command of her honored, amiable, and distinguished husband, the good and brave Sir John Fra-jklin. I have thus gone through, as fully as my space would permit, the voyages and journeys of our navigators and travelers within the Arctic circle, and the record of their arduous services cannot fail to prove interesting. There is one land expedition, that of Dr. Sir John Bichardson, on the Polar shore between the Copper- mine and Mackenzie Rivers, in 1848, which I have not touched on because it -has already been published in detail in several quarters, and the gallant Doctor is pre- paring a very full account of it for immediate publica- tion. Captain Kellett, also, has it in contemplation to publish an account of the voyage of the H 3rald. The following recapitulation will give the position of the different vessels engaged in the search, when last heard of. The Investigator having passed Behring's Strait^ reached Kotzebue Sound on the 27th of July, and when last heard of, was pushing her way along between the ice toward Melville Island. The ' Enterprise had put back to Hong Kong to winter having been unable to enter the ice. The Advance, was aground off Cape Eiley, August 25th. The Assistance, in "Wellington Channel, August 25th, standing toward Cape Hotham. The Felix, off Cape Crawford, in Lancaster Sound, August 22d. The Intrepid and Lady Franklin, on August 24:th LATEST POSmOIS" OF ALL THE VESSELS. 359 and 25tli, in Wellington Channel, standing toward Cape Ilotham. Tke Resolute and Pioneer, in Possession Bay, Aug. ITth. The Eescue and Sophia, in Wellington Channel, Au- gust 25th, apparently beset with ice. The Plover, wintering in Grantley Harbor, Port Clarence, 1850, The JSTorth Star and Prince Albert have, as we have seen, arrived in England, and the Herald is also on her passage home. I have been favored with the sight of a private letter of very recent date from an officer of the Herald, dated Hong Kong, 23d of December, 1850, from which I make the following extracts : " On our third and last cruise north in search of the ill-fated expedition under Sir John Franklin, we sailed from Oahu on the 24:th of May, 1850, arriving in Kot- zebue Sound on the 14:th of July. The Sound was a perfect wall of ice, with no prospect of our being able to communicate with the Plover for a week or ten days. One of our cutters was sent in with letters, getting be- tween the floes, and hauling over some, at last reached her, and found them all well, but no news during the winter of Sir John Franklin. On the 21st of July, after watering and refitting, we sailed for Cape Lis- burne to intercept the Enterprise and Investigator, this being the appointed rendezvous. The Plover also sailed for Point Barrow to look after PuUen's party. On the 26th, in a dense fog, we made the ice-pack, much to our surprise, 180 miles south of where we found it last season, in latitude 70° 13^ !N". The ice was fourteen feet high, a solid wall without an opening through which we might with safety sail. Toward midnight it blew a gale of wind, and we were compel- led to haul off. On the 29th, we again made the pack much higher than before, rising like a hill from the sea face, in latitude 71° 12' JST. On the night of the 30th, we saw detached icebergs off Wainwright Inlet, from thirty to forty feet high. The wind again increasing to a gale, with thick rainy weather, reduced us to close reefs, and compelled us to bear up for Cape Lisburne, 360 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISGOVEKT. " Arriving off that place on the last day of July, we were fortunate enough to fall in with the Investigator in a dense fog. Clearing for an instant, we were along- side eacli other ! and we had the news of the last twelve months. She had come from Oahu in the short space of time, twenty-six days. The Enterprise sailed five days before her. They had not seen each other since rounding the Horn. The Investigator remained but a few minutes in our company, and then departed with three hearty cheers from us for the ice pack, deter- mined to get to Melville Island. She had our good wishes, but at the same time our doubts as to her suc- cess ; we had the experience of three voyages. She was as yet green, and all her troubles to go through. " From this day, 31st of July, to 26th of August, we were blockading Cape Lisburne, to intercept the En- terprise and Plover, a most tedious and troublesome twenty-six days as ever we experienced ; we did not see the former, but the Plover we spoke. She had been to Point Barrow, had heard from the natives that a party of white men had been murdered and buried near the Colville Eiver, near the Mackenzie River, and that whales' jaws and bones now marked the spot. If it had not been so late in the season we should have sent a boat expedition there, but we hardly knew what con- clusion to come to. It may be Pullen's party, — it may be only ' native report ' to get tobacco and beads. My opinion was, and is, that the story was a most improb- able one, as the natives refused to accept a cask of to- bacco and two muskets to go there as pilots. But should any thing have unfortunately happened to Pullen's party, and no movement made by us to rescue them if still alive, it would be a damper on the Herald, and the affair never forgiven or forgotten by the public. " Finding it useless to wait any longer for the Enter- prise, we sailed for Port Clarence, and put the Plover into winter. quarters as a depot for the two ships norths" THE SEARCHma EXPEDITIONS. 361 TO THE EXPEDITIONS IN" SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIK. jTrom Fisher's DraAvdng-Room Scrap-Book.] Across the Arctic foam. To bring the wanderer home. Speed on, ye fleets, whom Mercy's hand equips I And may the favoring gales Make music in your sails. And waft you safely, oh, ye gallant ships ! May sunshine light your path. And tempests still their wrath. And fortune guide you on your darkest track ; Speed on with high endeavor, And hopeful courage ever. And bring to British hearts their long lost hero back. Farewell — a short farewell I — The hopes of nations swell. And prayei-s of myriads rise to Heaven for you, That perils of the cold. And hardships manifold. May bear their gentlest on each hardy crew I A thankful world looks on. And gives its benison ; America and Europe join their hands ; And o'er the Northern Sea, Gaze forward hopefully. And sound our Franklin's name through all the anxious land& Return I oh, soon return ! And let our beal-fires bum On every mountain-top and dizzy scaur ; And let the people's voice. And clapping hands rejoice For his and your returning from afar. No conqueror antique, Of Roman fame or Greek, Such proud ovation gathered, laurel-crowned. As we on him would pour, From every sea or shore. And hive of busy men, on all our English ground. But if this may not be. And o'er the frozen sea They sleep in death, the victims of their zeal ; Be yours the task to show The greatness of our woe, And end the doubting hopes that millions fed. Then shall the tears be shed For them, the glorious dead ; 16* 862 PROGRESS OF ARCfTlC DISCOVERY. And then shall History, on a spotless pag^ Inscribe each honest nam© With tributary fame — The men of noble soul — true heroes of our ago. Speed on across the wave 1 — For you the good and brave, The good and brave of every land implore All blessings and success. Sunshine and happiness. And safety on the far and frozen shor& From storm and hidden rock. And from the ice-berg's shock. May Heaven protect you, wheresoe'er ye stray I On Mercy's errand sped On you be mercy shed, Gk)d guide you, mariners, and shield you on your way THE AMEKICA]Sr AECTIC EXPEDITI0:N". The safe return of the expedition sent out by Mr Henry Grinnell, an opulent mercliant of 'New York city in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions, is an event of much interest ; and the voyage, though not resulting in the discovery of the long-absent mariners, presents many considerations satisfactory to the parties immediately concerned, and the American public in general. Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only two smajl brigs, the Advance of 140 tons ; the Rescue of only 90 tons. The former had been engaged in the Havana trade ; the latter was a new vessel built for the mer- chant service. Both were strengthened for the arctic voyage at a heavy cost. They were then placed under the directions of our J^avy Board, and subject to naval regulations, as if in permanent service. The command was given to Lieut. E. De Haven, a young naval officer who accompanied the United States exploring expedi- tion. Tlie result has proved that a better choice could not have been made. His officers consisted of Mr. Murdoch, sailing-master ; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and naturalist ; and Mr. Lovell, midshipman. The Advance had a crew of twelve men when she sailed ; two of them complaining of sickness, and expressing a desire to return home, were left at the Danish settlement at Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland. The Expedition left New York on the 23d of May, 1850, and was absent a little more than sixteen months. They passed the eastern extremity of IN^ewfoundland 366 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERY. ten days after leaving Sandy Hook, and then sailed east-northeast, directly for Cape Comfort, on the coast of Greenland. The weather was generally line, and only a single accident occurred on the voyage to that country of frost and snow. Off the coast of Labrador they met an iceberg making its way toward the tropics. The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager had no " light out," the Advance could not be censured for running foul. She was punished, however, by the loss of her jib-boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour. The voyagers did not land at Cape Comfort, but turning northward, sailed along the southwest coast of Greenland, sometimes in the midst of broad acres of broken ice, (particularly in Davis' Straits,) as far as Whale Island. On the way the anniversary of our national independence occurred ; it was observed by the seamen by " splicing the main-brace " — in other words, they were allowed an extra glass of grog on that day. From Whale Island, a boat, with two officers and four seamen, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of about 26 miles, to a Danish settlement there, to procure skin clothing and other articles necessary for use during the rigors of a polar winter. The officers were enter- tained at the government house ; the seamen were com- fortably lodged with the Esquimaux, sleeping in fur bags at night. They returned to the ship the following day, and the expedition proceeded on its voyage. When passing the little Danish settlement of Upernavick, they were boarded by natives for the first time. They were out in government whale-boats, hunting for ducks and seals. These hardy children of the Arctic Circle were not shy, for through the Danes, the English whalers,and government expeditions, they had become acquainted with men of other latitudes. When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which, on account of its fearful character, is also called the DeviVs Nip^ the voyagers began to witness more of the grandeur and perils of arctic scenes. Icebergs of THE A^IEKICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION. 367 all dimensions came bearing down from the Polar seas, like vast squadrons, and the roar of their rending came over the waters like the booming of heavy broadsides of contending navies. They also encountered immense floes, with only narrow channels between, and at times their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa- sion, after heaving through fields of ice for five consecu- tive weeks, two immense floes, between which they were making their way, gradually approached each other, and for several hours they expected their tiny vessels — tiny when compared with the mighty objects around them — would be crushed. An immense calf of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the Rescue, lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening her partially upon her beam ends. By means of ice-an- chors, (large iron hooks,) they kept her from capsizing. In this position they remained about sixty hours, when, with saws and axes, they succeeded in relieving her. The ice now opened a little, and they finally warped through into clear water. While they were thus con- iined, polar bears came around them in abundance, greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a little in the perilous sports of l^e chase. The open sea continued but a short time, when they •again became entangled among bergs, floes, and hum- mocks, and encountered the most fearful perils. Some- times they anchored their vessels to icebergs, and some- times to floes or masses of hummock. On one of these occasions, while the cook, an active Frenchman, was upon a berg, making a place for an anchor, the mass of ice split beneath him, and he was dropped through the yawning fissure into the Water, a distance of almost liiirty feet. Fortunately the masses, as is often the case, did not close up again, but floated apart, and the poor cook was hauled on board more dead than alive, from excessive fright. It was in this fearful region that they first encountered pack-ice, and there they were locked in from the 7th to the 23d of July. During that time they were joined by the yacht Prince Albert, com- manded bv Captain Forsvth, of the Royal ISTavy, and 24 ^68 PKOGKESS OF AEOTIC DISCOVERY. together the three vessels were anchored, for a while, to an immense field of ice, in sight of the Devil's Thumb, That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude 74P 22', was about thirty miles distant, and with the dark hills adjacent, presented a strange aspect where all was white and glittering. The pack and the hills are masses of rock, with occasionally a lichen or a moss growing upon their otherwise naked surfaces. In the midst of the vast ice-field loomed up many lofty bergs, all of them in motion — slow and majestic motion. From the Devil's Thumb the American vessels passed onward through the pack toward Sabine's Islands, while the Prince j^lbert essayed to make a more westerly course. They reached Cape York at the beginning of August. Far across the ice, landward, they discovered, through their glasses, several men, apparently making signals ; and for a while they rejoiced in the belief thai they saw a portion of Sir John Franklin's companions. Four men, (among whom was our sailor-artist,) were dispatched with a whale-boat to reconnoiter. They sook discovered the men to be Esquimaux, who, by signs, professed great friendship, and endeavored to get the voyagers to accompany them to their homes beyond the hills. They declined ; and as soon as they returned to the vessel, the expedition again pushed forward, and made its way to Cape Dudley Digges, which they reached on the Tth of August. At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed by the sight of the Crimson Cliffs, spoken of by Captain Pany and other arctic navigators. These are lofty cliffs of dark brown stone, covered with snow of a rich crimson color. It was a magnificent sight in that cold region, to see such an apparently warm object standing out in bold relief against the dark blue back-ground of a polar sky. This was the most northern point to which the expedition penetrated. The whole coast which they had passed from Disco to this cape is high, rugged, and barren, only some of the low points, stretching into the sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. E'ortheast from the cape rise the Arctic Tlighlands, to an unknown alti- ^ J I i THE AMEKICAK AKCTIC EXPEDITION. SfSh tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored Smith's Sound, filled with impenetrable ice. From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Ees- cue, beating against wind and tide in the midst of the ice-fields, made "Wolstenholme Sound, and then chang- ing their course to the southwest, emerged from the fields into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here, on the 18th of August, they encountered a tremendous gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours. The two vessels parted company during the storm, and remained separate several days. Across Lancaster Sound, the Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the 22d discovered the Prince Albert on the southern shore of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty, precipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and draped with snow. The weather was fine, and soon the officers and crews of the two vessels met in friendly greeting. Those of the Prince Albert were much as- tonished, for they (being towed by a steamer,) left the Americans in Melville Bay on the 6th, pressing north- ward through the pack, and could not conceive how they so soon and safely penetrated it. Captain For- syth had attempted to reach a particular point, where he intended to remain through the winter, but finding the passage thereto completely blocked up with ice, he had resolved, on the very day when the Americans ap- peared, to " 'bout ship," and return home. This fact, and the disappointment felt by Mr. Snow, are mentioned in our former article. The two vessels remained together a day or two, (vhen they parted company, the Prince Albert to re- airn home, and the Advance to make further explora- tions. It was off Leopold Island, on the 22d of Au- gust, that the " mad Yankee " took the lead through the vast masses of floating ice, so vividly described by Mr. Snow, and so graphically portrayed by the sailor-artist. " The way was before them," says Mr. Snow, who stood upon the deck of the Advance ; " the stream of ice had to be either gone through boldly, or a long detoiir made; and, despite the heaviness of the stream, fAey pushed 370 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. the vessel through in her proper course. Two or three ehocks, as she came in contact with some large pieces, were unheeded ; and the moment the last block was past the bow, the officer sung out, ' So : steady as she goes on her course ;' and came aft as if nothing more than ordinary sailing had been going on. I observed our own little bark nobly following in the American's wake ; and as I afterward learned, she got through it pretty well, though not without much doubt of the pro- priety of keeping on in such j)rocedure after the ' mad Yankee,' as he was called by our mate." From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the northwest, and on the 25th reached Cape Riley, an other amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate^ as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide, setting in to the shore, drifted the Advance toward the beach, where she stranded. Around her were small bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under the influence of the strong current. It was about two o'clock in the afternoon when she struck. By diligent labor in removing every thing from her deck to a small floe, she was so lightened, that at four o'clock the next morning she floated, and soon every thing was properly replaced. JS'ear Cape Riley the Americans fell in with a por- tion of an English Expedition, and there also the Rescue, left behind in the gale in Lancaster Sound, overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir John Ross, with the Felix, and Commodore Austin, with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators of ])oth nations explored the coast at and near Cape Riley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of the entrance to Wellington Channel, unmistakable evi dence that Sir John Franklin and his companions were there in April, 1846. There they found many articles known to belong to the British Kavy, and some that were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships under the command of Sir Johii. There lay, bleach<*d THE AJilEEICAN Ai.CTiC EXPEI.)rno:N . 371 to the whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of canvas, with the name of the Terror, marked upon it with indestructible charcoal. It was very faint, yet perfectly legible. ITear it was a guide board, lying flat upon its face, having been prostrated by the wind. It had evidently been used to direct exploring parties to the vessels, or rather, to the en- campment on shore. The board was pine, thirteen inches in length and six and a half in breadth, and nailed to a boarding pike eight feet in length. It is supposed that the sudden opening of the ice, caused Sir John to depart hastily, and in so doing, this pike and its board were left behind. They also found a large number of tin canisters, such as are used for packing meats for a sea voyage; an anvil block ; rem- nants of clothing, which evinced, by numerous patches and their thread- bare character,that they had been worn as long as the own- ers could keep them anvil block. guide board. on ; the remains of an India Rubber glove, lined with wool ; some old sacks ; a cask, or tub, partly filled with charcoal, and an unfinished rope-mat, which, like other fibrous fabrics, was bleached white. But the most interesting, and at the same time most melancholy traces of the navigators, were three graves, in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the head, bearing the name of the sleeper below. These inscrip- 372 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVER T. tions testify positively when Sir John and his compan- ions were there. The board at the head of the grave on the left has the following inscription : " Sacred to the memory of John Torrington, who departed this life, January 1st, a d., 1846, on board her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years." On the center one — " Sacred to the memory of eloHN Hartnell, a. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus; died, January 4:th, 1846, aged 25 years. ' Thus saith the Lord of Hosts, Consider your ways ;' Haggai, chap. i. 5, 7." On the right — " Sacred to the memory of W. Braine, R. M., of her Majesty's ship Krebus, who died April 3d, 1846, aged 32 years. ' Choose you this day whom you will serve :' Joshua, chap, xxiv., part of the 16th verse." THREE GRAVES AT BEECHEY. How much later than April 3d (the date upon the last-named head-board,) Sir John remained atBeechey, can not be determined. They saw evidences of his having gone northward, for sledge tracks in that di- rection were visible. It is the opinion of Dr. Kane that, on the breaking up of the ice, in the spring. Sir John passed northward with his ships through Welling- ton Channel, into the great Polar basin, and that he did not return. This, too, is the opinion of Captain Penny, apd he zealously urges the British government to ^end a poweifiil screw tjfeamer to pass tbrongli tha^ THE AJyLEmCAN AiiCTIC EXPEDITION. 373 channel, and explore the theoretically more hospitable coasts beyond. This will doubtless be undertaken another season, it being the opinions of Captains Parry, Beechey, Sir John Ross, and others, expressed at a con- ference with the board of Admiralty, in September, that the season was too far advanced to attempt it the pres- ent year. Dr. Kane, in a letter to Mr. Grinnell, since the return of the expedition, thus expresses his opin- ion concerning the safety of Sir John and his com- panions. After saying, "I should think that he is now to be sought for north and west of Cornwallis Island," he adds, " as to the chance of the destruction of his party by the casualties of ice, the return of our own party after something more than the usual share of them, is the only fact that I can add to what we knew when we set out. The hazards from cold and privation of food may be almost looked upon as sub- ordinate. The snow-hut, the fire and light from the moss-lamp fed with blubber, the seal, the narwhal, the white whale, and occasionally abundant stores of mi- gratory birds, would sustain vigorous life. The scurvy, the worst visitation of explorers deprived of perma- nent quarters, is more rare in the depths of a polar winter, than in the milder weather of the moist sum- mer; and our two little vessels encountered both seasons without losing a man." Leaving Beechey Cape, our expedition forced its way through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeav- ored to enter the Inlet, for the purpose of making it their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass of pack-ice at its entrance. It was on the 4th of Sep- tember, 1850, when they arrived there, and after re- maining seven or eight days, they abandoned the attempt to enter. On the right and left of the above picture, are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the Inlet, and in the center of the frozen waters and the range of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice within the Inlet, and while the vessels lay anchored to the " field," officers and crew exercised and amused 374 PE0GKES8 OF ARCTIC DISGOVEKY. themselves by skating. On the left of the Inlet, (in dicated by the dark conical object,) they discovered a Cairn, (a heap of stones with a cavity,) eight or ten feet in height, which was erected by Captain Ommaney of the English Expedition then in the polar waters. Within it he had placed two letters, for " Whom it might concern." Commander De Haven also depos- ited a letter there. It is believed to be the only post- office in the world, fi'ee for the use of all nations. The rocks, here, presented vast fissnres made by the frost ; and at the foot of the cliff on the right that powerful agent had cast down vast heaps of debris. From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly westward, battling with the ice every rood of the way, until they reached Griffin's Island, at about 96° west longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the 11th, and was the extreme westing made by the expe- dition. AH beyond seemed impenetrable ice ; and, despairing of making any further discoveries before the winter should set in, they resolved to return home. Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis' Strait by the southern route, before the cold and darkness came on ; but they were doomed to disappointment. ]^ear the entrance to Wellington Channel they became completely locked in by hummock-ice, and soon found themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that channel toward the pole. "Now began the most perilous adventures of the navi- gators. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the diurnal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening, and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness and horrors, would fall upon them. Slowly they drifted in those vast fields of ice, whither, or to what result, they knew not. Locked in the moving yet comfpact mass ; liable at every moment to be crushed ; far away from land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from the zero figure, toward the point where that metal freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again. Yet they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports, as cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet. As the THE AMEEICAJST AECTTIO EXPEDITICN. 375 <7inter advanced, the crews of both the vessels went on board the larger one. They unshipped the rudders of each, to prevent their being injured by the ice, covered the deck of the Advance with felt, prepared their stores, and made arrangements for enduring the long winter, now upon them. Physical and mental activity being necessary for the preservation of health, they daily ex- ercised in the open air for several hours. They built ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had spread over them they arranged in-door amusements and employments. Before the end of October, the sun made its appear- ance for the last time, and the awful polar night closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned the Rescue, and both crews made the Advance their permanent winter home. The cold soon became in- tense ; the mercury congealed, and the spirit thermome- ter indicated 46° below zero ! Its average range was 30° to 35°. They had drifted helplessly up Wellington Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Captain Penny saw an open sea, and which all believe to be the great polar basin, where there is a more genial clime than that which intervenes between the Arctic Circle and the Y5th degree. Here, when almost in eight of the open ocean, that mighty polar tide, with its vast masses of ice, suddenly ebbed, and our little vessels were carried back as resistlessly as before, through Barrow's Straits into Lancaster Sound! All this while the immense fields of hummock-ice were moving, and the vessels were in hourly danger of being crushed and destroyed. At length, while drifting through Barrow's Straits, the congealed mass, as if crushed together by the opposite shores, became more compact, and the Advance was elevated almost seven feet by the ^tern, and keeled two feet eight inches, star- board. In this position she remained, with very little alteration for ^ve consecutive months ; for, soon after entering Baffin's Bay in- the midst of the "winter, the ice became frozen in one immense tract, covering mil- 376 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. lions of acres. Thus frozen in, sometimes more than a hundred miles from land, they drifted slowly along the southwest coast of Baffin's Bay, a distance of more than a tliousand miles from Wellington Channel. For eleven weeks that dreary night continued, and during that time the disc of the sun -svas never seen above the hori- zon. Yet nature w^as not wholly forbidding in aspect. Sometimes the Aurora Borealis would flash up still further north w^ard ; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia — mock suns and mock moons — would appear in varied beauty in the starry sky. Brilliant, too, were the north- ern constellations ; and when the real moon was at its full, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, without descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast piles of ice with a pale luster, almost as great as the morning twilights of more genial skies. Around the vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; and in ice huts they stow^ed away their cordage and stores to make room for exercise on the decks. They organ- ized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and the officers with comedy well performed. Behind the pieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and by means of calico they transformed tliemselves into female characters, as occasion required. These dramas were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero, and actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fun. They also went in parties during that long night, fully armed, to hunt the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen l^orth, on which occasions they often encountered peril- ous adventures. They played at foot-ball, and exercised themselves in drawing sledges, heavily laden with pro- visions. 'Five hours of each twenty-four, they thus exer- cised in the open adr, and once a week each man washed his whole body in cold snow water. Seriouh sickness was consequently avoided, and the scturvy which at- tacked them soon yielded to remedies. Often during that fearful night, they expected the disaster of bavins^ their vessels crushed. All through November and December, before the ice became fast riiK a:^ikrican arctic kxi'kdition. 377 tliey slei^t iu their clothes, with knapsacks on their backs, and sledges npon the ice, laden with stores, not knowing at what moment the vessels might be demol- ished, and themselves forced to leave them, and make their way toward land. On the 8th of December, and the 23d of January, they actually lowered their boats and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were making the timbers of the gallant vessel creak and its decks to rise in the center. They w^ere then ninety miles from land, and hope hardly whispered an encour- aging idea of life being sustained. On the latter occa- sion, when officers and crew stood upon the ice, with the ropes of their provision sledges in their hands, a terrible snow-drift came from the northeast, and intense darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then been crushed, all must have perished. Eut God, who ruled the storm, also put forth His protecting, arm and saved them. Early in February the northern horizon began to be streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald of the ap- proaching king of day ; and on the 18th the disc of the sun first appeared above the horizon. As its golden rim rose above the glittering snow^-drifts and piles of ice, three hearty cheers went up from those hardy mar- iners, and they welcomed their deliverer from the chains of frost as cordially as those of old who chanted, " See ! the conquering hero comes, Sound the ti'umpet, beat the drums." Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the pallid faces of the voyagers, bleached during that long night, darkened by its beams, the vast masses of ice began to yield to its fervid influences. The scurvy dis- appeared, and from that time, until their arrival home, not a man suffered from sickness. As they slowdy drifted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indica- tions of brealdng up, the voyagers made preparations for sailing. The Kescue was re-occupied, (May 13th, 1851,) and her stone-post, which had been broken by the ice in Barrow's Straits, was repaired. To accom- plish this, thev were oblic^ed to dig away the ice whicL 378 PEOGEESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVEKY. was from 12 to 14 feet thick around her, as represented in the engraving. They reshipped their rudders ; re- moved the felt covering ; placed their stores on deck, and then patiently awaited the disruption of the ice This event was very sudden and apj^alling. It began to give way on the 5th of June, and in the space of twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the 10th of June, they emerged into open water, a little south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They immediately repaired to Godhaven, on the coast of Greenland, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the perils through which they had just passed, they once more turned their prows northward to encounter anew the ice squadrons of Bafiin's Bay. Again they trav- ersed the coast of Greenland to about the Y3d de- gree, when they bore to the westward, and on the 7tb and 8th of July, passed the English whaling fieet near the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through the accumulating ice to Baffin's Island, where, on the 11th, they were joined by the Prince Albert, then out upon another cruise. They continued in com- pany until the 3d of August, when the Albert departed for the westward, determined to try the more south em passage. Here again our expedition encountered vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to the most imminent perils. The floating ice„as if moved by adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a plain by mountain torrents. The noise was fearful ; so deafening that the mariners could scarcely hear each other's voices. The sounds of»these rolling masses, to- gether with the rending of the icebergs floating near, and the vast floes, produced a din like the discharge of a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of battle. Finding the north and west closed against further progress, by impenetral)](^ ice. the brave T)e Haven was n THE AlilEEICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION. 379 balked, and turning liis vessels homeward, they came out into an open sea, somewhat crippled, but not a plank seriously started. During a storm off the banks of l^ewfoundland, a thousand miles from New York, the vessels parted company. The Advance arrived safely at the E'avy Yard at Brooklyn on the 80th of September, and the Eescue joined her there a few days afterward. Toward the close of October, the govern- ment resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grin- nell, to be used in other service, but with the stipulation that they are to be subject to the order of the Secretary of the E'avy in the spring, if required for another expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. We have thus given a very brief account of the prin- cipal events of interest connected with the American Arctic Expedition ; the officers of which will doubtless publish a more detailed narrative. Aside from the suc- cess which attended our little vessels in encountering the perils of the polar seas, there are associations which must forever hallow the effort as one of the noblest exhibitions of the true glory of nations. The navies of America and England have before met upon the ocean, but they met for deadly strife. Now, too, they met for strife, equally determined, but not with each other. They met in the holy cause of benevolence and human sympathy, to battle with the elements beneath the Arctic Circle ; and the chivalric heroism which the few stout hearts of the two nations displayed in that terrible conflict, redounds a thousand-fold more to the glory of the actors, their governments, and the race, than if four-score ships, with ten thousand armed men had fought for the mas- tery of each other upon the broad ocean, and battered hulks and marred corpses had gone down to the coral caves of the sea, a dreadful offering to the demon of Discord. In the latter event, troops of widows and or- phan children would have sent up a cry of wail ; now, the heroes advanced manfully to rescue husbands and fathers to restore them to their wives and children. How glorious the thought ! and how suggestive of the beauty of that fast approaching day, when tha nHtlw^ 380 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCO HiRY. shall sit down in peace as united children of ono household. Winter in the Arctic Ocean. The following narrative, showing the way the wintei of 1851-52 was passed by those engaged in the recent arctic expedition, is from the official report made by Lieut. De Haven, the Commander of the expedition : " On the morning of the 13th Sept., 1850, the wind having moderated sufficiently, we got under way, and working om- way through some streams of ice, arrived in a few hours at ' Griffith's ' Island, under the lee of which we found our consort made fast to the shore, where she had taken shelter in the gale, her crew hav- ing sufiered a good deal from the inclemency of the weather. In bringing to under the lee of the island, she had the misfortune to spring her rudder, so that on joining us, it was with much difficulty she could steer. To insure her safety and more rapid progress, she was taken in tow by the Advance, when she bore up with a fine breeze from the westward. Off Cape Martyr, we left the English squadron imder Capt. Austin. About ten miles further to the east, the two vessels un- der Capt. Penny, and that under Sir John Ross, were seen secured near the land. At 8 p. m.. we had ad- vanced as far as Cape Hotham. Thence as far as the increasing darkness of the night enabled us to see, there was nothing to obstruct our progress, except the bay ice. This, with a good breeze, would not have im- peded us much ; but unfortunately the wind, when it was most required, failed us. The snow, with which the surface of the water was covered, rapidly cemented, and formed a tenacious coat, through which it was im- possible with all our appliances to force the vessels. At 8 p. M., they came to a dead stand, some ten miles to the east of Barlow's Inlet. "The following day the wind hauled to the southward, from which quarter it lasted till the 19th. During this period the young ice was broken, its edges squeezed ur> WI^TIOK IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 3S1 like hammocks, and one floe overrun by another until it all assumed the appearance of heavy ice. The ves- sels received some heavy ni])s from it, but they with- stood them without injury. Whenever a pool of water made its appearance, every effort was made to reach it, in hopes that it would lead us into Beech ey Island, or some other place w^here the vessel might be placed in security ; for the winter set in unusually early, and the severity with which it commenced, forbade all hopes of our being able to return this season. I now" became anxious to attain a j)oint in the neighborhood, from whence by means of land ]Darties, in the sj^ring, a goodly extent of "Wellington Channel might be examined. " In the mean time, under the influence of the south wind, we were being set up the channel. On the 18th we were above Cape Eowden, the most northern point seen on this shore by Parry. The land on both shores was seen much further, and trended considerably to the west of north. To account for this drift, the fixed ice of Wellington Channel, which we had observed in pass- ing to the westward, must have been broken up and driven to the southward by the heavy gale of the 12th. On the 19th the wind veered to the north, which gave us a southerly set, forcing us at the same time with the western shore. This did not last long ; for the next day the wind hauled again to the south, and blew fresh, bringing the ice in upon us with much pressure. At midnight it broke up all aroimd us, so that we had work to maintain the Advance in a safe position, and keep her from being separated from her consort, which was immovably fixed in the center of a large floe. " We continued to drift slowly to the IST. IST. W., until the 22d, when our progress appeared to be arrested by a small low island, which was discovered in that direc- tion, about seven miles distant. A channel of three or four miles in width separated it from Cornwallis Island. This latter island, trending N. W. from our position, terminated abruptly in an elevated cape, to which I have given the name of Manning, after a warm per- sonal friend and ardent supporter of the expedition. 382 PRoaEEss of aPwCtio discovert. Between Cornwallis Island and some distant high land visible in the north, appeared a wide channel leading to the westward. A dark, misty-looking clond which hung over it, (technically termed frost-smoke,) was in- dicative of much open water in that direction. This was the direction in which my instructions, referring to the investigations of the National Observatory, concern- ing the winds and currents of the ocean, directed me to look for open water. ISTor was the open water the only indication that presented itself in confirmation of this theoretical conjecture as to a milder climate in that direction. As we entered Wellington Channel, the signs of animal life became more abundant, and Cap- tain Penny, commander of one of the English expe- ditions, who afterward penetrated on sledges much toward the region of the ' frost-smoke,' much further than it was possible for us to do in our vessels reported that he actually arrived on the borders of this open sea. " Thus, these admirably drawn instructions, deriving arguments from the enlarged and comprehensive sys- tem of physical research, not only pointed with em- phasis to an unknown sea into which Franklin had probably found his way, but directed me to search for traces of his expedition in the very channel at the entrance of which it is now ascertained he had passed his first winter. The direction in which search with most chances of success is now to be made for the missing expedition, or for traces of it, is no doubt in the direction Which is so clearly pointed out in my in- structions. To the channel which appeared to lead into the open sea over which the cloud of ' frost-smoke ' hung as a sign, I have given the name of Maury, after the distinguished gentleman at the head of our;]Srationail Observatory, whose theory with regard to an open sea to the north is likely to be realized through this chan- nel. To the large mass of land visible between E". "W. to ]Sr. IN". E., I gave the name of Grinnell, in honor of the head and heart of the man in whose philanthropic mind originated the idea of this expedition, and *« whose munificence it owes its existence. WINTER IN THE AKCTIC OCEAN. 383 " To a remarkable peak bearing [N*. JST. E. from ns, distant about forty miles, was given tbe name of Mount Franklin. An inlet or harbor immediately to the north of Cape Bowden was discovered by Mr. Griffin in his land excursion from Point Innes, on the 27th of August, and has received the name of Griffin Inlet. The small island mentioned before was called Murdaugh's Island, after the acting master of the Ad- vance. The eastern shore of Wellington Channel ap- peared, to run parallel with the western, but it became quite low, and being covered with snow, could not be distinguished with certainty, so that its continuity with the high land to the north was not ascertained. Some small pools of open water appearing near us, an attempt was made about fifty yards, but all our combined efforts were of no avail in extricating the Rescue from her icy cradle. A change of wind not only closed the ice up again, but threatened to give a severe nip. "We unshipped her rudder and placed it out of harm's way. " September 22d, was an uncomfortable day. The wind was from IST. E. with snow. From an early hour in the morning, the floes began to be pressed together with so much force that their edge was thrown up in immense ridges of rugged hummocks. The Advance was heavily nipped between two floes, and the ice was piled up so high above the rail on the starboard side as to threaten to come on board and sink us with its weight. All hands were occupied in keeping it out. The pressure and commotion did not cease till near midnight, when we were very glad to have a respite from our labors and fears. The next day we were threatened with a similar scene, but it fortunately ceased in a short time. For the remainder of Septem- ber, and until the 4:th of October, the vessels drifted but little. The winds were very light, the thermometer fell to minus 12, and ice formed over the pools in sight, sufficiently strong to travel upon. "We were now strongly impressed with the belief that the ice had be- come fixed for the winter, and that we should be able to send out traveling parties from the advanced position 26 384 PEOGKESS OF ARCTIC DISCOTEEY. for the examination of the lands to the r^orthward Stimulated by this fair prospect, another attempt wan made to reach the shore in order to establish a depo^ of provisions at or near Cape Manning, which would materially facilitate the progress of om- parties in thp spring ; but the ice was still found to be detached from the shore, and a narrow lane of water cut us from it. " During the interval of comparative quiet, prelimi- nary measures were taken for heating the Advance and increasing her quarters, so as to accomodate the officers and crew of both vessels. 'No stoves had a? yet been used in either vessel ; indeed they could not well be put up without placing a large quantity of storeg and fuel upon the ice. The attempt was made to do this, but a sudden crack in the floe where it appeared strongest, causing the loss of several tons of coal, con- vinced us that it was not yet safe to do so. It was not until the 20th of October, we got fires below. Ten days later the housing cloth was put over, and the offi- cers and crew of the Rescue ordered on board the Ad- vance for the winter. Room was found on the deck of the Rescue for many of the provisions removed from the hold of this vessel. Still a large quantity had to be placed on the ice. The absence of fire below had caused much discomfort to all hands ever since the be- ginning of September, not so much from the low tem- perature, as from the accumulation of moisture by condensation, which congealed as the temperature de- creased, and covered the wood work of our apartments with ice. This state of things soon began to w^ork its eifect upon the health of the crews. Several cases of scurvy appeared among them, and notwithstanding the indefatigable attention and active treatment resorted to by the medical officers, it could not be eradicated — its progress, hovrever, was checked. "All through October and ]S"ovember, we were drifted to and fro by the changing wind, but never passing out of Wellington Channel. On the 1st of I^ovember, the new ice had attained the thickness of 37 inches. Still, frequent breaks would occur in it, often in fearful prox- WINTER IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 385 unity to the vessels. Hummocks consisting of massive granite-like blocks, would be thrown up to the height of twenty, and even thirty feet. This action in the ice was accompanied with a variety of sounds impossible to be described, but when heard never failed to carry a feeling of awe into the stoutest hearts. In tlie stillness of an arctic night, they could be heard several miles, and often was the rest of all hands disturbed by them. To guard against the worst that could happen to us — ^ the destruction of the vessels — the boats were prepared and sledges built. Thirty days' provisions were placed in for all hands, together with tents and blanket bags for sleeping in. Besides this, each man and officer had his knapsack containing an extra suit of clothes. These were all kept in readiness for use at a.moment's notice. " For the sake of wholesome exercise, as well as to in- ure the people to ice traveling, frequent excursions were made with our laden sledges. The officers usually took the lead at the drag ropes, and they, as well as the men underwent the labor of surmounting the rugged hum- mocks, with great cheerfulness and zeal. I^otwith- standing the low temperature, all hands usually returned in a profuse perspiration. We had also other sources of exercise and amusements, such as foot-ball, skating, sliding, racing, with theatrical representations on holi- days and national anniversaries. These amusements were continued throughout the winter, and contributed very materially to the cheerfulness and general good Kealth of all hands. The drift had set us gradually to the S. E., until we were about five miles to the S. W. Df Beechey Island. In this position we remained com- paratively stationary about a week. "We once more began to entertain a hope that we had become fixed for the winter, but it proved a vain one, for on the last day of November a strong wind from the westward set in, with thick snowy weather. The wind created an im- mediate movement in the ice. Several fractures took place near us, and many heavy hummocks were thrown up. The floe in which our vessels were imbedded, was being rapidly encroached upon, so that we were in mo- SS6 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. mentary fear of the ice breaking from aronnd them, and that they would be once more broken out and left to the tender mercies of the crashing floes. "On the following day (the 1st' of December) the weather cleared off, and the few hours of twilight which *ve had about noon, enabled us to get a glimpse of the land. As well as we could make it out, we ap- peared to be off Gascoigne Inlet. Wq were now clear 0of Wellington Channel, and in the fair way of Lan- caster Sound, to be set either up or down, at the mercy of the prevailing winds and currents. "We were not long left in doubt as to the direction we had to pursue. The winds prevailed fi'om the westward, and our drift was steady and rapid toward the mouth of the Sound. The prospect before us was now any thing but cheering. We were deprived of our last fond hope, that of be- coming fixed in some position whence operations could be carried on by means of traveling parties in the spring. The vessels were fast being set out of the region of search. 'Nor was this our only source of un- easiness. The line of our drift was from two to five miles from the north shore, and whenever the moving ice met with any of the ca])es or projecting points of land, the obstruction would cause fractures in it, ex- tending off to and far beyond us. Cape Ilurd was the first and most prominent point — we were bat two miles from it on the 3d of December. Nearly all day the ice was both seen and heard to be in constant mo- tion at no great distance from us. In the evening a crack on our floe took place not more than twenty -five yards ahead of the Advance. It opened in the course of the ev^ening to the width of 190 yards. " No further disturbance took place until noon of the 5th, when we were somewhat startled by the familiar and unmistakable souiid of the ice grinding against the side of the ship. Going on deck, I perceived that another crack had taken ])lace, passing along the length of the vessel. It did not open more than a foot; this, however, was sufficient to liberate the vessel, and she rose several inclics bodily, having become more buoy- WINTER IN THE AECTIC OCEAN. 387 aut since she froze in. The following day, in the evening the crack opened several yards, leaving the sides oY the Ad\ance entirely free, and she was once more snpported by and rode in her own element. We were not, though, by any means, in a pleasant situation. The floes were considerably broken in all directions around us, and one crack had taken place between the two vessels. The Rescue was not disturbed in her bed of ice. " December Tth, at 8 A. M., the crack in which we were, had opened and formed a lane of water fifty-six feet wide, communicating ahead at the distance of sixty feet with ice of about one foot in thickness, which had formed since the 3d. The vessel was secured to the largest floe near us (that on which our spare stores were deposited.) At noon, the ice was again in motion, and began to close, affording us the pleasant prospect of an inevitable nip between two floes of the heaviest kind. In a short time the prominent points took our side, on the starboard, just about the main-rigging, and on the port under the counter, and at the fore-rigging; thus bringing three points of pressure in such a position that it must^have proved fatal to a larger or less strengthened vessel. The Advance, however, stood it bravely. After trembling and groaning in every joint, the ice passed under and raised her about two and a half feet. She was let down again for a moment, and then her stern was raised about five feet. Her bows being unsupported, were depressed almost as much. In this uncomfortable position we remained. The wind blew a gale from the eastward, and the ice all around was in dreadful commotion, excepting, for- tunately, that in immediate contact with us. The com- motion in the ice continued all through the night; and we were in momentary expectation of the destruction of both vessels. The easterly gale had set us some two or three miles to the west. As soon as it was light enough to see on the 9th, it was discovered that the heavy ice on which the Eescue had been imbedded for so long a time, was entirely broken up, and piled 385 PEOGEESS OF AECTIC DISCOYEKY. up around her in massive hummocks. On her pumps being sounded, I was gratified to learn that she remained tight, notwithstanding the immense straining and pressure she must have endured. •" During this period of trial, as well as in all former and subsequent ones, I could not avoid being struck with the calmness and decision of the officers, as well as the subordination and good conduct of the men, without an exception. Each one knew the imminence of the peril that surrounded us, and was prepared to abide it with a stout heart. There was no noise, no confusion. I did not detect, even in the moment when the destruction of the vessel seemed inevitable, a sin- gle desponding look among the whole crew ; on the contrary, each one seemed resolved to do his whole duty, and every thing went on cheerily and bravely. For my own part, I had become quite an invalid, so much so as to prevent my taking an active part in the duties of the vessel as I had always done, or even from incurring the exposure necessary to proper exercise. However, I felt no apprehensions that the vessel would not be properly taken care of, for I had perfect confi- dence in one and all by whom I was surrounded. I knew them to be equal to any emergency, but I felt under special obligations to the gallant commander of the Rescue, for the efficient aid he rendered me. With the kindest consideration, and the most cheerful alacrity, he volunteered to perform the executive duties during the winter, and relieve me from every thing that might tend in the least to retard my recovery. " During the remainder of December, the ice re- mained quiet immediately around us, and breaks were all strongly cemented by new ice. In our neighbor- hood, however, cracks were daily visible. Our drift to the eastward averaged nearly six miles per day ; so that on the last of the month we were at the entrance of the Sound, Cape Osborn bearing north from us. "January, 1851. — On passing out of the Sound, and opening Baffin's Bay, to the north was seen a dark hori- zon, indicating much open water in that direction. On WINTEE IN" THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 389 the 11th, a crack took place between us and the Rescue, passing close under our stern, and forming a lane of water eighty feet wide. In the afternoon the floes be- gan to move, the lane was closed up, and the edges of the ice coming in contact with so much pressure, threat- ened the demolition of the narrow space which sepa- rated us from the line of fracture. Fortunately, the floes aga^n separated, and assumed a motion by which the Rescue passed from our stern to the port bow, and increased her distance from us 709 yards, where she came to a stand. Our stores that were on the ice were on the same side of the cracks as the Rescue, and of course were carried with her. The following day the ice remained quiet, but soon after midnight, on the 13th, a gale having sprung up from the westward, it once more got into violent motion. The young ice in the crack near our stern was soon broken up, the edges of the thick ice camo in contact, and fearful pressures took place, forcing up a line of hummocks which ap- proached within ten feet of our stern. The vessel trembled and complained a great deal. " At last the floe broke up around us into many pieces, and became detached from the sides of the vessel. The scene of frightful commotion lasted until 4 A. M. Every moment I expected the vessel would be crushed or overwhelmed by the massive ice forced up far above our bulwarks. The Rescue being further removed on the other side of the crack from the line of crushing, and being firmly imbedded in heavy ice, I was in hopes would remain undisturbed. This was not the case; for, on sending to her as soon as it was light enough to see, the floe was found to be broken away entirely up to her bows, and there formed into such high hummocks that her bowsprit was broken ofi^, together with her head, and all the light wood work about it. Had the action of the ice continued much longer, she must have been destroyed. We had the misfortune to find sad havoc had been made among the stores and provisions left on the ice ; and few bar- rels were recovered; but a large portion were crushed and had disappeared. 390 PEOGKESS OF AECTIC DISCOVERT. " On the morning of the 14:tli there was again some motion in the floes. That on the port side moved off from the vessel two or three feet and there became stationary. This left the vessel entirely detached from the ice round the water line, and it was expected she would once more resume an upright position. In this, however, we were disappointed, for she remained with her stern elevated, and a considerable lift to star- board, being held in this uncomfortable position by the heavy masses which had been forced under her bottom She retained this position until she finally broke out in the spring. "We were now fully launched into Baf- fin's Bay, and our line of drift began to be more south- erly, assuming a direction nearly parallel with the western shore of the Bay at a distance of from 40 to 'TO miles from it. " After an absence of 87 days, the sun, on the 29th of January, rose his whole diameter above the south- ern horizon, and remained visible more than an hour. All hands gave vent to delight on seeing an old friend again, in three hearty cheers. The length of the days now went on increasing rapidly, but no warmth was yet experienced from the sun's rays ; on the contrary the cold became more intense. Mercury became con- gealed in February, also in March, which did not occur at any other period during the winter. A very low temperature was invariably accompanied with clear and calm weather, so that our coldest days were per- haps the most pleasant. In the absence of wind, we could take exercise in the open air without any incon- venience from the cold. But with a strong wind blow ing, it was dangerous to be exposed to its chilling blasts for any length of time, even when the thermometer indicated a comparatively moderate degree of tem- perature. " The ice around the vessels soon became cemented again and fixed, and no other rupture was experienced until it finally broke up in the spring, and allowed us to escape. Still we kept driving to the southward along with the ai hole mass. Open lanes of water were XVINTEB IN THE ARCTIO OCEAH". 391 visible at all times from aloft ; sometimes they would be formed within a mile or two of us. Narwhals, seals, aud dovekjs were seen in them. Our sports- men were not expert enough to procure any, except a few of the latter ; although they were indefatigable in their exertions to do so. Bears would frequently be seen prowling about ; only two were killed during the winter ; others were wounded, but made their escape. A few of us thought their flesh very palatable and wholesome ; but the majority utterly rejected it. The flesh of the seal, when it could be obtained^ was re- ceived with more favor. " As the season advanced, the cases of scurvy became more numerous, yet they were all kept undrjr control by the unwearied attention and skillful treatment of the medical officers. My thanks are due to them, es- pecially to Passed Assistant Surgeon Kane, the senior medical officer of the expedition. I often had occa- sion to consult him concerning the hygiene of the crew, and it is in a great measure owing to the advice which he gave and the expedients which he recom- mended, that the expedition was enabled to return without the loss of one man. By the latter end of February the ice had become sufficiently thick to en- able us to build a trench around the stern of the Res- cue, sufficiently deep to ascertain the extent of the injury she had received in the gale at Griffith's Isl- and. It was not found to be material ; the upper gud- geon alone had been wrenched from the stern post. It was adjusted, and the rudder repaired in readiness for shipping, when it should be required. A new bow- sprit was also made for her out of the few. spare spars we had left, and every thing made seaworthy in both vessels before the breaking up of the ice. "In May, the noon-day began to take effect upon the snow which covered the ice ; the surface of the floes became watery, and difficult to walk over. Still the dissolution was so slow in comparison with the mass to be dissolved, that it must have taken it a long pe- riod to become liberated from this cause alone. Moro 392 PROGRESS OF ARCTIC DISCOVERY. was expected from our southerly drift, wliicli still con- tinued, and must soon carry us into a milder climate and open sea. On the 19th of May, the land about Cape Searle was made out, the first that we had seen since passing Cape Walter Bathurst, about the 20th of January. A few days later we were oft' Cape "Walsing- ham, and on the 27th, passed out of the Arctic Zone. "On the 1st of April, a hole was cut in some ice that had been forming since our first besetment in Septem- ber; it was found to have attained the thickness of 7 feet 2 inches. In this month, (April,) the amelioration of the temperature became quite sensible. All hands were kept at work, cutting and sawing the ice around the vessels, in order to allow them to float once more. With the Kescue, they succeeded, after much labor, in attaining this object ; but around the stern of the Ad- vance, the ice was so thick that our 13 feet saw was too short to pass through it ; her bows and sides, as far aft as the gangway, were liberated. After making some alteration in the Rescue for the better accommodation of her crew, and fires being lighted on board of her several days previous, to remove the ice and dampness, which had accumulated during the winter, both ofiicers and crew were transferred to her on the 24:th of April. The stores of this vessel, which had been taken out, were restored, the housing cloth taken off, and the ves- sel made in every respect ready for sea. There was little prospect, however, of our being able to reach the desired element very soon. The nearest water was a narrow lane more than two miles distant. To cut through the ice ^vhich intervened, would have been next to impossible. Beyond this lane, from the mast-head, nothing but intermediate floes could be seen. It was thought best to wait with patience, and allow nature to work for us. " June 6th, a moderate breeze from S. E. with pleasant weather — thermometer up to 40 at noon, and altogether quite warm and melting day. During the morning a peculiar cracking sound was heard on the floe. I was inclined to impute it to the settling of the snow drifts as WINTER IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN. 393 they were acted iij^on by tlie sun, but in the afternoon, about 5 o'clock, the puzzle was solved very lucidly, and to the exceeding satisfaction of all hands. A^ crack in. the floe took place between us and the Rescue, and in a few minutes thereafter, the whole immense iield in which we had been imbedded for so many -months, was rent in all directions, leaving not a j^iece of 100 yards in diameter. The rupture was not accompanied with any noise. The Rescue was entirely Ulcerated, the Advance only partially. The ice in which her after part was imbedded, still adhered to her from the main chains aft, keeping her stern elevated in its unsightly position. The j^ack, (as it may now be called,) became quite loose, and but for our pertinacious friend acting as an immense drag upon us, we might have made some headway in anj^ desired direction. All our eftbrts were now turned to getting rid of it. With saws, axes, and crowbars, the people went to work with a right good will, and after hard labor for 48 hours succeeded. The vessel was again afloat, and she righted. The joy of all hands vented itself spontaneously in three hearty cheers. The after part of the false keel was gone, be- ing carried away by the ice. The loss of it, however, I was glad to perceive, did not materially affect the sailing or working qualities of the vessel. The rudders were shipped, and we were once more ready to move, as eflicient as on the day we left New York. "Steering to the S. E. and working slowly through the loose but heavy pack, on the 9tli we parted from the Rescue in a dense fog, she taking a different lead from the one the Advance was pursuing." 394 pkogkess of aectio discovert. Latest Accounts — Geound foe Hope. Mr. Wm. Penny, of Aberdeen, states in a letter to the Times, that Capt. Martin, who, when commanding the whaler Enterprise, in 1845, was the last person to communicate with Sir. J. Franklin, has just informed him that the Enterprise was alongside the Erebus, in Melville Bay, and Sir John Franklin invited him, (Capt. Martin,) to dine with him, which the latter de- clined doing, as the wind was fair to go south. Sir John, while conversing with Capt. Martin, told him that he had &vq years' provisions, which he could make last seven, and his people were busily engaged in salting down birds, of which they had several casks full already, and twelve men were out shooting more. "To see such determination and foresight," observes Mr. Penny, " at that early period, is really wonderful, and must give us the greatest hopes." Mr. Penny says that Capt. Martin is a man of fortune, and of the strictest integrity. The following is the deposition of Capt. Martin, just received in the London Times, of Jan. 1, 1852, con- taining the facts above alluded to : Robert Martin, now master and commander of the whaleship Intrepid, of Peterhead, solemnly and sin- cerely declares that on the 22d day of July, 1845, when in command of the whale ship Enterprise, of Peter- head, in lat. TS*' 10', long. 66° W., calm weather, and towing, the Erebus and Terror were in company. These ships were alongside the Enterprise for about fifteen minutes. The declarant conversed with Sir John Franklin, and Mr. Reid, his ice-master. The conver- sation lasted all the time the ships were close. That Sir John, in answer to a question by the declarant if he had a good supply of provisions, and how long he expected them to last, stated that he had provisions for five years, and if it were necessary he could "make them spin out seven years ;" and he said further, that he would lose no opportunity of killing birds, and "Whatever else was useful that came in the way, to keep LATEST ACCOUNTS. 395 up their stock, and tliat lie had plenty of powder and shot for the purpose. That Sir John also stated that lie had already several casks of birds salted, and had then two shooting parties out — one from each ship. The birds were very numerous ; many would fall at a single shot, and the declarant has himself killed forty at a shot with white pease. That the birds are very agreeable food, are in taste and size somewhat like young pigeons, and are called by the sailors " rotges." That on the 26th or 28th of said month of July, two parties of Sir John's officers, who had been out shoot- ing, dined with the declarant on board the Enterprise. There was a boat with six from each ship. Their con- versation was to the same effect as Sir John's. They spoke of expecting to be absent four or five, or per- haps six years. These officers also said that the ships would winter where they could find a convenient place, and in spring push on as far as possible, and so on year after year, as the determination was to push on as far as practicable. That on the following day, an invitation was brought to the declarant, verbally, to dine with Sir John, but the wind shifted, and the Enterprise having cut through, the ice about a mile and a half, the declarant was obliged to decline the invitation. That he saw the Erebus and Terror for two days longer; they were still lying at an iceberg, and the Enterprise was mov- ing slowly down the country. That so numerous were the birds mentioned, and so favorable was the weather for shooting them, that a very large number must have been secured during the time the declarant was in eight of the two ships. The Prince of Wales whaler was also within sight during the most of the time. Chat from the state of the wind and weather for a pe- riod of 10 days, during part of which the declarant >vas not in sight of the two ships, the best opportunity was afforded for securing the birds. That the birds described are not to be found at all places on the fish- ing ground during the whaling season, but are met with in vast numbers every season on certain feeding 396 PKOGEESS OF ABCTIO DISCOVEKT. banks and places for brooding, and it appeared at the time by the declarant to be a most fortunate circum- stance that the Erebus and Terror had fallen in with so many birds, and that the state of the weather was so favorable for securing large numbers of them. The declarant has himself had a supply of the same de- scription of birds, which kept fresh and good during three months, at Davis' Strait, and the last were as good as the first of them. "Which declaration, above written, is now made conscientiously, believing the same to be true. Robert Mabtin. Declared, December, 29th, 1851, before E-. Geath, Provost of Peterhead. From this it would appear that it is not impossible, perhaps not improbable, that Sir John Franklin may yet make his appearance, coming down from those ice- bound regions bringing with him his noble ships and their daring crews, and giving joy to thousands upon thousands who are watching with intense interest tlie unraveling of the mystery of his absence, and espe- cially bringing joy inexpressible to the heart of that noble lady, with which thousands of hearts throughout the civilized world beat in sympathy. SDNEY'S HISTORY OF AUSTRALIA.,, THREE COLOiirOF AUSTRALIA. MW SOUTH WALES, VICTORIA & SOUTH AUSTRALIA THEIK Pastures, Copper Mines & Gold Fields. BY SAMUEL SIDNEY. ,~^^ Ten Illustrations. Mnslin, 408 pp 12mo. Price $lj25. Brief Extracts from Notices of the Press. It is well written, well printed, and -worth tlie attention of all Americans who would turn their faces towards Australia. — AT. Y. Times. "We have been greatly interested in the work — so much so, indeed, that we could not satisfy ourselves without going through with it entire. — ^. Y. Bap. Reg, The position of the author, and the unquestionable sources from which he draws his information, affords the highest evidence that his details, historical, statistical and ge- ographical, are accurate and reliable. — N. Y. Jour, of Knowledge. The work above named is not only very lively and interesting, but having been pre- pared by a gentleman who had access to the most reliable data, it furnishes just the infor- mation which everybody is in quest o^ and which must be invaluable to persons intend- ing to emigrate. — I^. Y. Org. This work affords an excellent opportunity for becoming thoroughly acquainted with Australia and its mines, for the writer is evidently a man of intelligence, and speaks from actual, personal observation. — Amei icam, Courier. To the immigrant, the work will, it is believed, furnish a safe and full guide. — DdUar Newspaper. Though there have been more glowing pictures of Antipodal hTe, we have yet seen none that groups so many facts, and imparts so clear a view.— iV^. Y. Evangelist. The information embodied in this work is just what is sought for by every one. — Rapine Daily Advocate. Mr. Sidney has in this work given to the world a volume of varied and useful infor- mation concerning the Australian El Dorado. — Detroit Advertiser. Those who wish to be informed in relation to Australia will find this volume complete in its information and exceedingly interesting in all its details. — Lowell Christian Era. This is a handsome 12mo of 408 pages, neatly illnstrated with engravings, abounding with every variety of interesting information respecting Australia. — Lutlieran Observer. Every intelligent reader will be deeply interested in the account of the truly phi- lanthropic labors of Mrs. CnissHOLM, who has contributed so largely to tho welfare of Australia, by the colonization of her own sex. — Yates Coicnty Whig, Published by MILLLR, ORTON" & MULLIGANS, Auburn and Buffalo, THE LIFE OF JOAK OF ARC, €\t piaii 0f Orleans. ♦ BY D. W. BAETLETT, AUTHOR OF " LADY JANE GREY," "WHAT I SAW IN LONDON," ETC. Portrait on Steel. Mnslin, 221 pp 16mo. Price 75 Cents. * • Notices of tlie Press— Brief Extracts* It Is written and compiled in Bartletfs peculiar and popular style, and is a plain and authentic history of the Jife of the heroine of France. — OonneetictU Union. The view which the present biographer takes of her, shows her in a most attractive light, and the volume is eminently interesting throxxghout—Syracuse Eve. Ckrariicle. It possesses all the attraction of a romance, while it is a veritable and well authen- ticated history. — Chriatiait, Amhassador. This volume will be reaJ with interest and profit The story of Joan of Arc can never bo truthfully toM. without interest. — Auburn Daily Advertiser. Mr. Bartlott, though still a young man, has already signalized himself in the line of authorship. His style is easy and graceful, and he never attempts to gild the qualities of his heroes at the expense of truth — Christian Secretary. The life and adventures of the greatest heroine of history are graphically written.— Syra^cme Repvib. Every thing relating to Joan of Arc is of interest, and Mr. Bartlett has furnished a book which will be eagerly sought for, and Avhich will prove a rare treat to the reader. — Cayu» ga Chief. It contains an admirably written history of the French heroine, the facts having been caiefully collated from numerous authorities. — Dodge's Literary Musewm. The history before us is one of thrilling interest ; and so much so that we could not lay aside the book, until we had read it through. — Religious Herald, Hartford, Ct. We thank our neighbor Bartlett for having given so good a book to the reading publl*' It will be useful as well as entertaining.— ifari/orti Courant. Published by MILLER, ORTON & MULLIGAN, Aubur7i and Buffalo,