Tfb° TT 960 .112 Copy 1 xxc 8 Mack's Barbers' Guide 8 8 :xx A Practical Hand -Book For Apprentices, Journeymen and Boss, Embracing a The- oretical Course in Barbering, as well as Recipes and Form- ulas for Toilet Waters, Face Lotions, Creams, Salves, Po- mades, Shampoos, Sea Foams, Hair Tonics, etc. Ry J. M. McCAMANT Press of WASATCH PRINTING CO. Ogden, Utah 9 ^v l#0 Copies MeCe!¥G\. MAY 20 1908 „ C«»yriff.. t.<#> 3'uASS. A _ XXC. No. COHY B. Copyrighted. 1908, b> J. M. McCAMANT INTRODUCTORY MANY writings and criticisms have been published concerning' professional and other tradesmen, but comparatively few books, outside of periodicals, have been printed pertaining to the barber business or i htir trade. Perhaps this is because of incapability from Inexperience among the learned men, or possibly from indif- ference and lack of confidence among the tonsors. Every man is said to have his particular ambitions, whether this be true or not, I can say for myself only, that I have no other so great as that of being truly esteemed by my fellow men, by rendering myself worthy of their es- teem. To do this with my unacquainted friends, I must write with the spirit and kno wedge of my business. In compiling recipes and composing rubs I have tried to omit nothing essential to the Uplifting and upbuilding of the barbers and their trade; at the same time admitting that there may be a few superfluous lines, these being writ- ten to break the dull monotony of real facts and to make the study as interesting as possible. There is something unusual about a boy who of his own accord will seriously devote himself to study; even a man (a barber) who has discovered how sorely he needs education, and who has, therefore, a motive for study that a boy has not, will accomplish little without the aid of books which are interesting enough to enlighten him be- fore he is aware of the fact. These extra lines are surplus, if you have a mind to call them that, or written on this principle. Science for everybody will not meet the < act wants of the barber, and every example or illustration in this book relates directly or indirectly to barbering. The best definition or explanation of anything material is the thing itself, and the next best to this is a good pic- ture or explanatory illustration of it. Though the illus- trations and figures are by some of the best artists, and many of them are of high artistic merit, being part of the teaching apparatus of this book; still there has been no thought of making a mere picture book of it. It is more of a text book of scientific barbering. In reading this book, read carefully, and if you find paragraphs which you do not like, do not appeal to preju- dice; don't by any means let it beat you out of the good INTRODUCTORY tilings it contains for you, for the author has gleaned from every field at home and abroad to secure that which is of most interest and profit to the craftsmen of America. Quite an amount of research has been made at home and abroad to bring to bear all the force of some thoroughly trained and experienced minds, and wherever the object or theory was to be advanced by so doing he has freely drawn on the thoughts of others. By studying carefully the systems in this book the ap- prentice is enabled to learn by practice how to do a great many things quickly it would take years to accomplish without. Most all other- tradesmen or artists have had drawings, specifications or cuts to use in practicing their works, and to the author it has seemed strange that no one has undertaken the work of producing a book of this kind to guide the apprentice or workmen of ordinary caliber. This book is not written with the expectations that, should a man or boy memorize it he would be competent to hold a position at the chair, for book learning is not all. Practical experience is the most thorough teacher in any trade, art or profession, but you hav? to absolutely master the theory of either before you can practice the practical successfully. The study of correct barbering may be taught more completely by a fluent writer, if he is a practical workman, than it can by an inexperienced, incompetent master. To any one who notices mistakes in this work and overlooks them the author will feel grateful; he will also be grateful to the mind who coined the consoling reflection that: "The man who never makes mistakes never makes anything." Whether this book meets with success, lives many years, and is truly appreciated by those to whom it is in- scribed, is yet to be seen. Should it meet with approval and the sales be large the author will appreciate his efforts to the fullest extent, and at the same time listen to the trickle of a good steady income. DETERMINATION. Business is defined as designating any regular occu- pation, and two of the most important things for a young man just starting out in life to decide, is what will he do; what kind of business does he want to follow, and where will he settle? The former should be the first to be de- cided upon, as he may be inclined to pursue something that would necessitate change of home. This question, young man, you should thoroughly consider before your decision is made. Detect your capacities, if possible; try to compre- INTRODUCTORY hend your inclinations. If you have no desire to attend school or college — as some boys have not — then you must study some ti-ade. If you feel disposed to learn the barber trade and fully resolve to master it, then you have made a start. The world is full of barbers, and it is terribly crowded in places with those who claim to be workmen, but it is quite a large world and there is and always will be room for more proficient and enterprising barbers. Never have there been opportunities so plentiful and prospects so flattering as there are in these days of rush- ing, progressive Americanism; so if any young readers, Who are not already barbers, enter therein, let them go as thoroughly enducated for success as possible. Remember that you can be respectable, also an hon- ored member of society, without belonging to a learned profession. Some must be barbers, so it makes little dif- ference what you follow, if honorable and legitimate, so far as success is concerned, if you like it and find yourself adapted to it. "Honor and shame from no conditions rise; Act well your part, there all the honor lies." The barber business is an honorable one if fol- lowed with an honorable spirit; a barber may be a man of polished manners, and a millionaire a clown. We should all strive for honesty and politeness, as we are each individaully responsible for the ideas we cherish If we cultivate a high moral idea we will ever be on the progressive side, as the progress of the world is made by the compiling of individual ideas, and you may just as well seek to dam Niagara Falls with tissue paper as to stop the progress of civilization. The barbers make their business what it is. T Tis said, "There is but one road to success, and that road is merit." If your work is of a sloppy kind, merit is far away and will never find a resting place in your qualifications, for recog- nition. "The ability to do some one thing a little better than any one else can do it, is the golden key that unlocks the door of success." especially for the young man. The ear- lier in life you begin to regard your business in a serious manner, the sooner you will become proficient. The more elderly the men who become experts in this particular line of work late in life, have a great many disadvantages which youth does not have to contend with. In the first place, young men spend more money in the shop than old ones; second, there are more young men than old ones; third, a young man. if he is perfectly able to take care of it, makes INTRODUCTORY as determined an effort to secure custom he can pull more his way, for most young men prefer young workmen to serve them. One of the habits you should form, in your early course of training or practice, is the arrangement of all your ac- quired knowledge in a most exact order, and keep the ele- ments of progressive thought continually in your mind. Some one will say this is entirely too deep for a barber; so it is with the average knight of the razor; his own busi- ness is too deep for him, and many are the failures in all kinds of business because the bankrupts do not keep the gray matter in their heads working as they should. What causes cheap shops and poor service? Ignorance applies fairly well to both, when you leave a small difference between. Misfortune will often befall a workman or a boss barber who is moderately well ad- vanced in the practice and who is really a better man than should be working in a low shop. Still, if we look carefully over this individual's career, we can see where he has been "shy" in some capacity; he may be ever so energetic; he may have the manners and the ability to perform his work in a quick, neat and fascinating manner, but he may lack of confidence, he may not have the good judgment, possibly he has not read enough to post himself sufficiently to be interesting to the class of people who patronize these •Educated Barber Shops," or. worst of all, he may be an habitual drinker; bad habits are the result of ignor- ance, generally; few of us really knowing and believing the detriment they bring on us later in life. This work is to educate the barber that he may be enabled to perform his duties in an enchanting way; to fur- nish a shop comfortably and economically, and conduct it on the same basis. The barbers, as far as finances are concerned, have been somewhat short in the past, but their future is as good as any other's tradesman s. "Greatness is of slow growth and, should we wish to achieve it, all our spare time should be earnestly devoted to accomplishing some definite purpose, as we scarcely get into our real lives before the undertaker comes along and moves us out." If you are not the man you ought to be. blame nc other man; blame not heritage; you can blame no une but yourself, for there is no such thing as instantaneous wis- dom. To think and act properly is the correct foundation of good business, as well as sorial methods. Faith and INTRODUCTORY belief is necessary, but the real knowledge is still more so to accomplish any commercial undertaking. Science should be constantly in the minds of the bar- bers, for science is truth demonstrated. The theory of cor- rect barbering is a science, and the practice of it is an art. Character building begins in boyhood, and we are con- stantly building good or bad craracters — as others see it— •po if we devote all our spare time to the study of our own trade in a scientific way, we are training our faculties of common everyday sense up to that high state of perfection called evolution. "The scientific man merely uses his brain in a systematic way," while the majority of us are careless or neglectful. We should remember that: "Lives of great men all remind us. We can make our lives sublime And, departing, leave behind us, Footprints on the sands of time." Why bewail our fate and be continually wishing our- selves something else. No one in any separate line of busi- ness ever achieved any greatness, in that particular line, by wishing be wa.s in some other vocation. J. M. McCAMANT lilXilXMNC AS AN APPRENTICE. Most of the so-called colleges are detrimental instead of educational, because they start you wrong, and when a man or boy starts with the wrong- theory he must begin over, as errors accepted in boyhood or apprenticeship later become articles of faith and are not easily gotten rid of later in life. "If you start a chap Wrong he must be abso- lutely full of natural ability, courage and perseverance to ever overcome these cherished memories first impressed upon him." To learn, you should go to some well managed shop, where the proprietor's expenses are light; there you stand more show to serve an apprenticeship, for in the larger and more business-like places they seldom have the time to do you justice, should they admit you. Many boys begin by doing the porter work around the shop. Most barbers* will tell you they have done so (if they are honest.) By beginning this way it takes you longer, as there will be times that you could be doing barber work when you are compelled to do porter work; but if you haven't the means to pay one to teach you, then you must begin under (what seems to you as) difficulties; still they are not, as this porter act alone is a scientific one, and one which you will need experience in badly before you operate a large •shop. After you have found a place and formed an agree- ment with the proprietors, equip yourself with as good a set of tools as circumstances will allow, using your master's judgment and suggestions in purchasing them, always bearing in mind that the best is none too good, for many are the "ups and dowjis" of the workmen who have good tools, to say nothing of the bad* ones. Barbers will tell you that there will be times when your best razor will fail to work; this is true, of course it is. but why? Simply be- cause you do not understand how to sharpen it properly, or you do not know how to manipulate it after you get it sharp. Don't let any one make you believe that the razor MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE which cuts smooth and easy today, would not have cut Just as good yesterday because of some prognostication or some climatic condition; for it would have done the work, If you had had it in proper shape. Don't be suspicious about your tools; that is. don't imagine them worthless, es- pecially your most important tools (razors and shears); if you do, the chances are someone will get a good pair of shears or a good razor very cheap. If you suspect or have a slight opinion that your tools are worthless and throw them aside, without giving them a fair trial, you are very imprudent, yes, you are very foolish, for in mastering a balky razor or tool you gain one of the greatest victories you will ever gain, as long as you are a practicing mechanic. You should have unquestionable proof as to them failing to do the work; on the other hand, if you have tools that you know are not good ones, you are not only taxing your skill by trying to make them do the work, but you are wasting time and are apt to drive away custom. When you begin to shave a stranger, if your razor balks, the best thing for you to do is to pick up another, as some people are very suspicious and nervous; they do not like you to be trying a tool on their face. They may think that you have not had enough experience in the practical manipulation of barber machinery. They are afraid you nmy slip a cog somewhere or got a "hot box," and as then- ar** furnishing the face for you to work on, they want to think at least that you thoroughly understand your business. You must try to convince the public that you are a skilled workman- not by telling them that you have been work- ing at the trade for years ami that you have worked in some of the best shops in the country — for this they will know is not true, but by making a careful study of the wants of each and every customer and by keeping your business uppermost in your mind; by closely imitating your superiors. No one ever became proficient in this trade without first imitating, then originating. Often you will have to furnish gratis a good many little extras used in your work, when you are only paid for part of it. Sometimes you must courteously shave his neck, curl his mustache, clip the hair from over his ears and rub his scalp, until you begin to think your arm 1s h perpetual motion machine, and when he hands you the modest price of a shave alone, thank him politely, help hirn on with his coat, collar and tie, and ask him to call again. Did you ever know of an apprentice in any trade, or of a scholar of any profession who did not have to put up with a certain amount of intimidation? There sre always a few who arc so thoughtless ami ignorant, no matter how MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE hard you strive to please, as to abash and confuse you on the slightest cause. These are the agitators and small business men. small in every respect, and occasionally one who is large — in name only — who are so ravenous in a greed for riches that they often deny themselves the necessities of life, to accumulate a few more paltry pennies; these men. young man, will be found just as plentiful in the barber shop as in any other public business; they are of a class who generally shave themselves, or'patronize cheap shops, and they really believe that they have a special permit or paid-up license to kick. If you listen to these men you will nexev accomplish much for yourself. You should not listen to the dictates of an inexperienced man; that is, do not worry about their petty complaints; these men would rather you would not be educated, as they might be compelled to pay more for their shaves if all the barbers in their respective localities were educated barbers. These small men will suggest to you that you open up and conduct a cheap shop; they are afraid to visit the better class of shops, for by so doing they might imbibe extrav- agant ideas which would cause them to part with an extra "copper" or two. Pay no attention to the doubting, discour- aging class, as they are the ones who compose most of the failures and bankrupts. No great artists have ever been made nor great en- terprises ever completed by "Doubting Thomases"; neither can you accomplish or complete great good without sacri- fice. Still no sacrifices are too great after we have gone through them; so when you begin to learn the trade, stay with it until you master it. as you may be able to re r er back to it with pleasure, even should you become President. THE ESSENTIAL TOOLS AND THEIR PROPER CARE. Three good razors should always be kept, as .you might have an accident with one; then, as two are absolutely necessary, you would have just enough left. One is used for the first time over, then you should have a nice, light one to finish with; some men work with one alone, but this is not always practical, for some time is required to put one in order. This business of honing a razor be- tween every shave may be all ( right; but when a man has all the work he can possibly do, doesn't it seem more practical to keep a nice kit of razors, and keep them all working nicely? Two pairs of shears; would advise small or medium-sized ones. One pair of strong, free cutters, and a pair of trimmers. Two pairs of clippers; one pair known as No. l's, which eut hair about one-sixteenth of an inch long, and a MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE pair <»r small oiks, which cut it almost equal to shaving. in buying clippers choose the standard brands and keep a couple of extra springs, to use in case of breaking one- One good combination strop, with linen or cotton hose com- bination and a good smooth, clinging leather to finish tin- razor on. One shaving mug. large enough to hold a cake of Soap and make up a good supply of lather. One pair of needle- point tweezers. One hair brush. One lather brush, with good Ions bristles. One large comb, hand made, with round, pointed teeth, and as thin or fiat as it is practical to make it One small, thin finisher, and one tine comb, to use for dry shampoo. Two hones, one fast cutter, like a petrified hickory, and a swaty; if you are working with only one razor, use a ••dry" between every shave. One neck duster, one pair of mustache crimpers and a mustache curling iron, or a slate pencil is just as practical. One black-head spoon. One shear sharpen* r. One tool case or razor pocket. One eye shade. One eye protector. One clipper plate One nice, large hand mirror. Any workman who starts out to apply for a position should have a nice kit of tools, ami a good leather grip to carry them in. Don't he one of the notorious "globe trotters," and go about the world with an old "hook" and SWaty in your pocket and expect people to look up to you. A good tool is entitled to fair treatment, and if so treated will make a satisfactory return to its owner in long and faithful service. Where is the man who does not ap- preciate a good tool, and yet. how many are there who do not neglect their tools more or less? How many work- men will ever think of oiling their shears or clippers until they begin to creak. <>r until the customer reminds them that they need it? RAZORS. A common failing among razors outside of having poor Steel in them, is that the blades do not fit in the handles perfectly, and you are constantly shutting them down on the handles and nicking the point or edge of the hlade. This can he remedied, to a certain extent, by binding one side of the handle near the shank with thread: this throws the blade more to the center of the handle. Tortoise shell or horn handles are apt to warp: this defect can he remedied by soaking in hot water until they become pliant, then drying in a vise, so they dry straight. These handles are affected by water, and if left in a damp place, or with drops of water cm them, they soon become si a ly, crack and split. The study of the razor is one that is well worth the time to any one who shaves himself, as well as to the ap- MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE prentice, and the good barber can tell you much about them you never thought of. Keeping a razor sharp is one of the first steps toward making a good workman, and it is one of the first things you do when beginning to serve apprenticeship — hone razors. There are hundreds of barbers who have a light touch and they understand tough beards and tender skins, but they are not good shavers, for the reason that they cannot keep their razors in shape. They have not gotten onto the knack of putting an edge on a razor, or sharpening a pair of shears, and it is something that seems impossible for them to learn. Quite often you may neglect drying your razors thor- oughly, and the consequence is rusty blades, "not the red rust." but a kind of invisible corrosion, that you could plainly see with a good magnifying glass. Water or damp- ness has a tendency to eat away the polished edge. When you take it up hastily to strop it, you damage your strop, for corrosion is not a good filling for a razor strop. If one becomes rusty or corrodes so you can see it plainly, take a fine emery flour and polish thoroughly. Another cause of razors failing to hold an edge is the shape in which they are ground; defective grind, imper- fect shank, poor shape and a poor bevel are all things worth learning to detect the moment you pick up a razor. A straight, true bevel, perfect shank, and a full concave grind, will enable you to procure a smooth, even edge quickly. Some barbers say that razors are refractory things, and that they have their off days and fail to work from unknown causes. So they do, but is it the razor or the manipulator? When a razor begins acting badly, it is laid aside until the barber has a little spare time, then he takes it in hand; usually it can be put in shape in a short time, but some- times you cannot make them work as they should without exercising quite a bit of patience, or, as workmen sny. they need coaxing. The edge of an over-honed razor, if examined through a powerful magnifying glass, will show small serrations, as in figure No. 1. These are caused by the hone being rough Figure No-. 1. MACK'S BARBERS' Gl IDE and cutting fast, although there are few razors that are keen and sharp and cut freely that are entirely without lhe.se miniature teeth, if it is so rough that stropping will not remove most of the teeth and most of the roughness; then it must he worked down on some kind of a hone until smooth. The most effectual way to remove this roughness is to lay the razor flat on the hone and draw it straight acrosi it. as in Figs. Nos. 2 and 3. then proceed t,> hone it lightly, figures Nos. 2 and 3. for fear you overhone it again. There are barbers who have worked for years in the business in one place, who are working in second-class shops, and they have little or no work to do, simply because they cannot sharpen a razor and keep it sharp. There is a right and a wrong way to sharpen tools. If you were going to sharpen a butcher knife to cut meat with, you would not use the same stone that you would for a razor, for they are two separate tools and are used for separate and distinct purposes; still ninety-nine people out of every hundred, who never saw a razor honed, would use the same stone and the same movement to sharpen the razor that they would use for the knife, and vice versa. Barbers, did you ever have a razor that would cut fairly well as long as you kept one side next to the face ami Shaved in one dire< tion. but as soon as you would turn it over it would fail to work? This is caused by the teeth MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE being in opposite direction in point of slant to the beard, thus making- it difficult to cut; besides, it must be smooth to cut good. Shaving is a very refined way of planing or sawing, and many are the motions made by the expert shaver as he glides over pimples, moles and "soup-bone" faces"; he can put the razor down on the face quickly, with the edge right against your skin, still it doesn't cut you, or go into the skin, just glides over; he can, by stretching the skin tight with one hand, make one stroke on your face with a razor and remove many whiskers without hurting you, while the inexperienced man would cut a steak out, or puncture an artery. The precise man, who wants the razor just so, may leave your shop disgusted on account of bad tools; so strive hard to keep them in perfect shape at all times. RAZOR HONING. First, lather the hone well with a creamy lather, then place the razor on the hone, laying it perfectly fiat, at- shown in Fig. 4; then the blade should be drawn forward against the edge, heel first, as in Fig 5; this finishes the Figures 4 and 5 first stroke. Now turn the razor on it into position for the backward stroke, as back and slide it ~'n Fig, 6, being Figure 6 MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE careful to place same in position before you lay it flat on the hone. Push the blade backwards from heel to point against the edge and finish the stroke, as in Fig. 7. Figure 7 These two motions, when properly executed practically constitute honing; there is really more than two motions, but to the inexperienced hand they all look somewhat the same. Hone this way until the razor is free of nicks and has a smooth edge or bevel. This may be known by feeling of it with a moistened finger, or by drawing it across the moistened finger nail, at the same time helping to remove the wire edge, formed by honing. This rough, serrated edge is quite difficult to overcome by some apprentices, as their sense of feeling is not acute enough to tell when the blade is honed sufficiently. There are several ways to remove this roughness, how- ever, and if you have had trouble along these lines, re- member that stropping alone will not remove it; you may strop until you are vexed, but the wire edge still remains, unless you strop the edge off altogether, which can easily be done by stropping heavily on a canvas strop, not stretched tight. To remove it, place the razor on the hone, as in Figs. 2 and 3. ami pull straight across the hone, turn- ing each side flat to the hone; this method will not only take roughness of, but will turn the edge to a certain ex- tent; then you must rehone it a couple of strokes each way, very lightly; if this fails to smooth it up, draw it across the strop same as on finger nail; also strop it on a loose strop; then, when all else fails, strop it hack side up a time or two, being very cartful not to serape the strop with the edge <>r tin- blade. REMEMBER THIS IX HONING. The blade, edge and back must be kept flat upon the hone, and the blade must be honed against the edge from heel to point, as shown in the cuts, the heel always being in advance of the point. A tine blade in good condition is more sensitive than :i violin strung under hisrh tension, and utmost care should MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE fce taken with it. If it is ground properly, it will need but little honing or stropping. RAZOR STROPPING. To strop a razor, fasten your strop to something solid «nd stretch it tight; now place the blade on the strop, as shown in Fig. 8, with the edge pointing away from you, Figure 8 •draw the blade toward you, always keeping the heel slightly in advance of the point; when the end of the strop is reached (Fig. 9) turn the blade, back downward, until the Figure 9 It) MACK'S BARBERS' GUI0£ unstropped side comes in contact with the strop, then push the blade from you, as shown in Figs, 10, 11, keeping the Figure 10 Figu heel slightly in advance; continue this process until it has 1 a smooth edge, which in time you can detect by trying the edge on your moistened finger or by clipping fine hairs. Remember to keep the strop tight; place the blade flat on the strop and maintain the same angle as much as pos- sible. To sharpen the point of the razor, pull it off the edge of the strop a time or two, as in Figs. 12, 13. Before putting your razor away, you should strop it until sharp, MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE II Figure 12 Figure 13 and wipe dry With H cloth or towel; this leaves it in perfect shape; should you wish to shave some one who is in a \Z MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE hurry, all you must do is to lather properly and go t<> work. STROPS. When a man has a good strop, too much care cannot be taken to keep from cutting- or twisting it out of shape, or until you break the grain. 'I here is a difference in strops and straps. A man may sell you a good strap and all you could use it for Figure 14 would be to tie up a horse, or for a similar purpose; but if you purchase a good razor strop, one that is made of a hide tanned and dressed for strop purposes, and finished by practieal strop manufacturers, who put each one tli rough a special scientific process, you have an important part of your necessary equipment. The old-time Russia leather, which at one time was a leader, is still a good strop, and if properly filled and worked down, there is no better. Until late years Russia leather was, or was thought to be, the best dressed and prepared leather for razor strops, but these strops have, most of the time, been put on the market in a shape not ctly ready for instant use, Take a Russia leather just MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 13 fiom the dealer, use it without any soaping, or before working it down, and it will seldom give the satisfaction many other kinds give, because it is not fully prepared. When a strop manufacturer finishes a high grade .strop nowadays it is ready for immediate use; just fasten it to something and rub the dust off, then go to work. It does the work all O. K. after they put it through the pr now employed by them. Xo strop will stand constant usage and retain its smooth, clinging surface without occasionally applying something to preserve it. Most of the barber supply houses have liquid, paste or powder preparations, some of which possess merit, but some that not only lack merit but are detrimental. Beeswax, paraffine, charred paper, soap and other materials are used; any of these mentioned above being good when properly applied. The following are good hints for those who have trou- ble with strops: If a strop becomes too slick and the sur- face is extremely shiny, it needs cleaning and working pver. Tak»> a wet towel and wash off thoroughly, dry with dry towel: if it has a porous or rough appearance, it is Hgure 15 ready for the filling, but if it has not, let it dry out, I you ran feel as well as see that the leather will take the filling. Beeswax or paraffine should be ironed in with an 14 MACKS BARBERS' GUIDE iron just warm enough to melt the wax, and it should be applied very sparingly. The strop must be laid flat on a solid table or board and ironed as you would clothes; be careful not to have the iron too hot. Charred paper is a good filling', the only drawback to it is tnat it is so dirty; burn a piece of ordinary newspaper Figure 16 ami mix just enough stiff lather to keep it from dying away in dust, then apply to the strop, rubbing it in and spread- ing it over your strop with the back of your hand, giving it time to dry slightly before stropping your razor, so you will not rub all the filling out. Rich, creamy lather is one of the best strop dressings when applied in this way; when going off duty for an hour or so. or at night before leaving work, rub your strop clean and apply rich lather, letting it dry on the strop; in the morning rub off all particles of dry lather with hand or dry towel, and if it seems too spongy dampen your hand, pick up your chunk of alum and rub your strop briskly with your hand after handling alum. This treatment causes the good, clinging surface so im- portant to give the razor a smooth, silky edge. Treat canvas or linen strops about the same as leather, the only difference in them being the amount of filling they take and the shape in which they take it. A 'doth strop Is MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 15 for the purpose of removing roughness, as any one could see by results obtained from using them, if they would use a good magnifying glass. In using a canvas strop after honing a razor, remember that every time you use it you produce a more rounding edge on your razor, and that you are not making it keen but smooth, especially if you strop heavily. Do not try to work with cold hands and cold tools. No doubt you have tried to work when your hands, razor and strops were all cold. The hand should be warm and moist, and to do nice work the strops should not be cold. Before stropping your razor on a cold morning, rub up your strop with the back of your hand until the surface Ceels warmed up by the friction, then notice how your razor clings to it. Do not buy a pearl-handled razor and a cheap strop and expect the razor to shave nicely, stropped on a poor strop, whether it is a good razor or not. Some workmen Figure 17 work with their razors direct from the canvas and keep them in good shape, SHEARS. If" shears are n<>i balanced perfectly they wear consid- erably before they call for oil. The more they wear the 16 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE sooner you will be compelled to purchase now nni s. Oif of some kind is constantly within your reach, and as it i^ so essential to good cutting shears, don't wait for the cus- tomer to remind you, but keep them well lubricated. To Figure 11 make them hi better, to make them easier and to protect your finger from callouses use the rubber shear pads. Som< practice is required to learn to sharpen them nicely, so it you have always had your shears ground by some one else and have never learned to sharpen them yourself, you have not yet finished your apprenticeship and should begin at <>nce to study this. A 'machine that will last a lifetimc only costs a dollar or two. and it pays for itself in a month's time where there are two or more barbers to use it. To secure a good, lasting edge, sharpen them with the same bevel from point to crotch, and after you have ground a smooth, lasting edge on them, if they fail to cut good, they are not adjusted right or the blades have not enough concave to them. i. e. they do not close together on the edge properly. Bend the blades just a little toward each other. If from wear tney fail to close at the point, bend the handles outward so they do not touch; if this does not MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE '7 suflk-e, file them out at the shank. Care must be taken in bending- them. as. they are easily broken and only a little bending is necessary'. BRUSHES. Hair brushes should never be forced tog-ether, as this spreads the bristles, and when once the bristle knots are broken, or the bristles are once bent out of shape near the wood, they soon become limber. In selecting brushes, pick those with the bristles set in straight lines, so they will be easily kept clean. A good hair brush, like any other good tool, is entitled to the best of treatment, and if so treated will make a "hit" with every customer you use it on. Never put your hair brush in hot water, for in time it will ruin the handle and back of it; use ammonia and cold or warm water and ordinary soap; alter washing then? put in a warm place to dry thoroughly before using. A wet Figure 19 hair brush will not shed the dirt and scurf like a dry one. but rather has a tendency to collect it; so dry them thor- oughly. In the evening before leaving work is the time 18 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE to wash the brush, so it will be clean and dry for the next day's work. LATHERING. It has been said that when you lather properly you are half through with the shave, but you are not, you have only lathered, that's all. Any boy fifteen years of Figure 20 ai;e, who" has good common sense, can by studying- diligent- ly, learn to lather correctly in two weeks' time; still there aro many workmen who do not lather one-tenth of their patrons as they should; not because they do not know how, for most any barber knows, but they are just careless. There are many men, no doubt, who could shave themselves nicely if they only knew how, and would hither their faces properly. First. Tuck the towel around your customer's neck carefully, so that his clothing will be protected. Second. If the face is dusty or dirty and the beard is stiff and dry, use a damp towel to wipe the face off and moisten the skin. Use water the temperature to suit the patron and. if he likes, lay the towel over his eyes and forehead while you make your lather. Third. Rinse your shaving cup and brush thoroughly MACKS BARBERS GUIDE 19 with cold or warm but not too hot water, leaving just about as much water, in the lather brush as the bristles will con- tain without squeezing or pressing; rub your brush up and down and around on your soap until you produce a thick, creamy lather. Fourth, Lather the face with the brush, working the lather all off of it onto the face; now change the brush to the other hand, and hold it until you rub the bearded face with your naked hand and fingers, working the lather well down to the roots of the beard; after you have rubbed it thoroughly, take the brush back into the other hand, and finish by smoothing the lather out evenly, over the entire to be shaved; be careful not to lather the ears, ryes, nose and rr.outh. Shaving soaps differ; some soaps will work up a lather by just givir.^ the wet brush a few turns on it. then apply Figure 21 t<> the face and work: others are used to a better advan- tage by mixing the lather in the mug - before applying. SHAVING. Having studied the theory "f h ming. stropping and 20 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE lathering, you now take up the most difficult of all parts of the trade, shaving. The particulars in the art of shaving can no more be explained by writing than you could explain the technicali- ties of music to an inexperienced person, but rules can be Figure 22 given which are so precise that if the apprentice follows them in every detail he will improve rapidly. While lath- ering is not shaving a man. it is absolutely imperative to lather properly before beginning to shave, in order to d< nice work with the razor. Have your razor in good order and. holding it in one hand, you take the first two fingers of the other hand and wipe the lather from the hair at the temples, and from in front of the ears; this shows you where to begin and prevents you cutting the skin which in front of some men's ears is a little wrinkled. On most of faces you can shave from the temples to the lower edge of the jawbone. in long, easy strokes, as in Fig. 14, then turn the razor over, never using but one hand to turn it with, and shave to the point of the chin, lifting up the mustache, where there is one, and shave under it. Fig. 15. Now turn your razor back in former position and shave as far down under the jawbone as the beard grows down. Fig. 1 (! : then change 1 position, getting more behind your customer, and shave up, as in Fig. 17. only this shows the left side of the MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDI >\ face. Y<>u now have your man half shaved, once over. Strop your razor a few strokes and take the lather brush, relathering the unshaved side in soots where it needs it. Now, standing over or behind your customer, you shave in long, smooth strokes, holding the razor, as in Fig. 18; shave this way as far down on the face as it is convenient, then change back to the original position and shave down around the point of the chin, as in Fig. 19; now turn the load with chin toward you, and holding the razor in posi- tion, as Fig. 2 0, shave as far as the beard grows in that direction; then change and shave up again, as in Fig 17. To shave the chin, place the thumb and forefinger of one hand firmly over the chin, and by a simple movement of the wrist and forefinger of the hand you hold the razor in, shave lightly, yet keep the razor firmly against the chin, especially where the beard is tough or stiff. The last part of the face to shave is just under the lower lip, and to do this properly, the chin should be shaved smooth and clean Figure 23 of lather first. Standing behind the customer, place the forefinger of one hand firmly over the chin, press down and shave up at the same time, as in Fig. 21. You now have the whiskers off, so wash off all soap thoroughly be 12 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE fore shaving second time over, If the man wants a close Shave, give it to him, but do not shave directly against the grain, unless he wants a very close shave, and then only the second time over. Never shave the face dry. Keep it moist with Water all the time you afe shaving, and to shave extremely close, pull up the skin in rolls and shave only a little at a time, very lightly. The first time over always guide the razor in the direction of the growth of the board, and lay the blade as Hat on the face as you can, for the more you change from this, the more you scrape the skin. During busy times a good barber will give the ordinary man a good shave in ten minutes' time and turn him out of! his chair; but in no other trade is there so much medi- ocrity as in that of the barber, and where you find one good one you Will find ten of the ordinary ones who are not .so good. From a mechanical point of view as much may !>.• said about other craftsmen, but as people do not Figure 24 come into such intimate personal contact with them a9 they do with barbers, it is difficult to judge them as ac- curately. Tt is not all in the lathering and rubbing it in; MACKS BARBERS' GUfDE 23 some .workmen put in an incredibly long time lathering' and stropping- the razor, then spoil the shave by using it like a hack saw. Few have the gift of the long, scooping, yet light and sure stroke of the blade, that we s<> rarely Figure 25 meet and that most everyone enjoys. It seems like dip* ping off whiskers with a spoon When one of these workmen shaves you. HAIR CUTTING. The theory of proper hair cutting is almost as difficult to explain in print as to describe shaving in a scientific manner. Hair cutting is an art, and it can only be practiced correctly by those who combine good taste and judgment with mechanical skill and liberal art necessary for the ap- plication of its principles, to the deversified form of the head. Studying the rules in this book, and closely observing the figures, cuts and plates herein will prove verv beneficial ^4 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE to those apprentices who are striving to reach the front in the art of' hair cutting. First. To do this correctly you must begin by pro- tecting the neck properly, so as to avoid the unpleasantness of letting the loose hair get down around your customer's neck, and this can best be overcome by using the rubber neck bib (made especially for that purpose) or by securely fastening the hair cloth. Cotton is used by some, and in trimming the beard it is very nice. In warm weather, if the customer's neck is damp with perspiration, use a little powder; this prevents the cut hair from sticking to the skin. Second. Carefully survey the head before starting to cut; that is, run the comb through the hair and put it in the usual order, raising the hair, at the same time noticing for scars and unevenness of the scalp, as in Fig. 2 2. Thin spots in the hair, cowlicks and general outline of the head. Figure 26 Ask your patron how he wants it cut, and a4 the same time form an idea as to the most becoming style or way of cut- ting it, to look best on him and to do yourself the most credit. This examination only takes a few moments' time, which are saved many times over by knowing what- and MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 25 where to cut. You can then rush on and cut hair without feeling your way. Ihird. Should there be a bad scar on any part of the Figure 27 head, ALWAYS cut this part first, then cut the other to o-ni'iespond. Fourth. The hair in front of the ear should never be cut so high as to show the end of the cheekbone, especially if it is prominent or the temple recedes or appears to be hollow, as in Fig. 23. This should be square, as in Fig. 2 8, although some wear it pointed, and on some heads it looks about as we!' Fifth. It is poor taste to cut the hair shorter in front than elsewhere, or to trim or cut it high up at the back of the neck; it should be left down an inch or two below the bottom of the ears; this is to be determined by the length of the neck. On broad necks it should be cut round or somewhat oval, as in Fig. 2 4, and never square, or too high, as in 25, but on small, thin necks it should be cut fuller at the sides to broaden the looks of the neck. A pointed, round shape lengthens the appearance of a short, thick 26 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE nock, while a less pointed or more round shape broadens the looks of it. Sixth. The hair when worn short, should not be left too blunt at the edges. When the neck is shaved round or down the sides a short hair cut should be almost feather- edged, as in Figs. 27 or 28. This feather-edging gives it a finished appearance; while the abrupt, defined line is sug- gestive of the old traditional pot cut. Seventh. On broad foreheads the hair should not be worn too long or heavy, and the artistic hair cutter — -when he has his way— always cuts to improve the appearance of the shape of the head by leaving the hair full over the parts of the head lacking fullness, and by cutting it short or thin- Figure 28 ning it out on the over-developed portion, as this gives the head an even -and well-rounded contour, as In Fig. 22. WORTH REMEMBERING. A large or perfect-shaped head generally looks nice with a medium or short hair out. Fis;s. 27 and 2S; while an MACK'S BARBERS" GUIDE 27 extremely small or irregular shaped one should be covered with long hair, as in Fig. 2 9, and kept trimmed often. If your light is poor, turn your chair so as to get the most light. Begin by holding your comb in your left hand, Figure 29 pushing it through the hair from the temple up, beginning to cut slowly at the bottom and cut faster as you raise the comb. If the comb does not take the hair well, use the shears, as in Fig. 2 6, and push the hair down through the comb teeth as you cut. Use the same method all around the bottom, cutting the least on heads you wish to leave the fullest. There is science even in the close clipper cut, and to do this properly, start the clipper at the bottom and work the handles fast, pushing the machine slowly upward. Where the hair lays close to the head always push them against the hair, i. e. against the way it grows. Do not try to cut a full swath, but about one-half a swath each time; by so doing you run the clippers over the entire head twice, and when you have done this there will be no long, straggling hair left. Often when you have to cut a head of hair with the shears that is dry and fluffy it saves time to dampen it before cutting, and if the customer 28 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE does ur burnt too much. Some apprentices, when singeing the hair, will in- variably burn it toe much in one place, as they let the taper stay tot. limy in one pla ;e. You should keep the taper moving all the time, as well as the comb. Do not try to singe the hair just after applying tonic, for some of it contains So much alcohol that you arc apt to s.t the hair afire, unless you have had experience and can work rapidly. Always singe before shampooing or ap- plying tonic. SHAMPOOING. A good shampoo once a month is not a day too often for anyone; some people wash their hair oftener than that, nut some never wash it until they begin to wonder why thej have dandruff, falling hair and the like; then the bar- ber or someone else reminds them that they will lose all their bail-, so they decide to clean up. Good shampoo is better for the hair than most soaps, as most of the soap made contains too much lye. Shampoo ,s put on the market in various forms, liquids, powders, jellies atid pastes. They can be made either way, so the.N do the work effectively; although in some forms thev work up faster than in other's. Thev are anplied to the hair witn water, and vigorous rubbing is necessary to remove all din ami scalp accumulations. DIRECTIONS FOR GIVING SHAMPOO. First. Fasten the shampoo cloth — a rubberized cloth — * around your customer's neck, then taking: Up a face towel, catch one corner of it with your right hand and the ex- treme corner from that, with the left, give it a twist, mak-* ing a small roll of it; tie this around the neck in a single knot, to obsorb all water or shampoo which may run down from the hair. Second. Apply the shampoo, or water either, one at a time, rubbing fast until you produce a lather all over the MACK'S BARBER5' GUIDE 37 head; take the shampoo brush and brush all about the roots of the hair, working the lather down well onto the scalp, after you have loosened the dirt up; scoop or rub off Ihe bulk of the lather into your left hand, then wash it off in the basin. To be sure of a good job, take your comb and comb through the hair from forehead straight back to the base of the head. Examine, and if all the scurf is not loosened, apply more shampoo and work until you loosen it up. Third. Now comes the rinsing act. Call the patron over to the wash basin, and while regulating the tempera- ture of the water, ask him to have a seat on the shampoo stool. Rinse his hair thoroughly, scratching it lightly with one hand and applying water with the other. Dry the hair well enough so the water will not run down on the face before asking him to go back to the chair; then dry his hair as much as he wishes, using a fan if you have no compressed air or patent hair dryer. The removal of ah shampoo from the hair, by rinsing with soft water, is es- sential. Fresh eggs make a nice shampoo. To give it properly, crack the end of the egg enough to let out just a little at a time — for if you try to rub it all on at once, part of it will get away — and apply, rubbing the whole of the egg Into the hair. To give an egg shampoo properly, use the shampoo hood, or take the customer to the basin and apply the eggs as he holds his head over the basin; this way you are handy to the water. When applying water or shampoo, or other liquids, to the hair, rub the head briskly at the same time you are applying the lotion to keep it from running off; this is a difficult movement for the beginner, as he is inclined to hold one hand still, while he uses the other; if he wishes to practice this movement let him go in the back room and practice rubbing his head with one hand and patting his stomach with the other, both at the same time. The Chinese in very early days practiced something of this sort, as the word "shampooing" is derived from a Hin- doo word — Champana, which signifies rubbing, or beating the body, or head, in connection with a bath. MASSAGE. Some Early History on Massage. The word "massage" is a French word, derived from Greek, meaning to knead, or a mechanical method of medical treatment of the body, consisting chiefly in manip- ulation administered by the hand of a person trained to do this "in a particular way. The history of massage has 38 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE been traced through various stages of development back to early times. Massaging the body was practiced *n early times by the Egyptians. Romans and Greeks. Thp Greeks used massage, as it is mentioned in their medical bcoks, as a practice among athletes and warriors, also among the aristocratic families, to produce health, strength and beauty. After the fall of the Roman Empire the massage treat- ment seems to have been abandoned until about the end of the seventeenth century, after which time it was practiced more or less imperfectly until it was revived about the beginning of the nineteenth century by Peter H. Ling, a Swede, and placed on a good medical and scientific basis, in what is now known as the Swedish movement cure, originated by Ling, but this was for the entire body, or at least the parts afflicted. It was about 1860 that mas- sage, as it is now understood, was fully developed, and as now practiced it consists of several different processes. Massage does good by mechanically pressing out from the tissues material which needs to be removed, or have its natural flow accelrated; first in cases of inflammatory effusions, and second in cases of imperfect circulation. Instructions and illustrations describing and showing the proper method of giving facial massage. The complex methods of massaging are like all other trades and arts, somewhat difficult to explain in writing, and the masseurs who produce unusual good are the ones who understand the basic principles of the art and prac- tice them in the most scientific manner possible. Study the likes and dislikes of your customer, noting carefully the results produced on those taking regular treatment. Use utmost care on the one that has the delicate, sensitive skin, and give the ones with tough, healthful faces all the force they desire. For headaches, neuralgia and vari- ous other nerve ailments may be relieved by an increased circulation of the blood to different parts, as good, rich blood renews nerve energy, overcomes fatigue and gives freshness and new life to the skin. The value of massage as applied to the face can only be comprehended by un- derstanding the growth of the human skin; that delicate, sensitive covering of the body. By reading the notes in this book, which so completely explain the continuous growth, the constant change and the ever renewing process of the skin, you immediately see true worth in massage, when applied to any part of the body; not only as a cleanser, but as a tissue builder and developer. As the growth of the skin is from within, the outer layer must necessarily be rubbed, washed or scaled off, so the true skin underneath may continue to grow. In order to maintain a perfectly healthful body the scnrf skin should be MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 39 removed regularly, as it aids the body in removing impuri- tks so much that should the pores be obstructed, disease would seat itself in the body, and if they were entirely clogged up, death would ensue. To become expert in this work the operator should have a delicate, though Arm touch, understand the skin, have good control of his fin- gers and nerves, and he should be very gentle as well as swift in all his manipulations; for, like all other exer- cises, overindulgence or too rough or vigorous work, pro- duces effects worse by far than no treatment at all. All parts of the hands and fingers come into actual play when giving a treatment, so the whole hand should be soft and smooth; the nails being trimmed close or smooth enough to prevent scratching. It may not be necessary to say that the operator should be neat, clean and healthy, as in other places in this book you are reminded that health. cleaniness and perfect physical conditions are component parts of success. Practical Instructions and Illustrations. Describing and Showing the proper Method of Giving Facial Massage. First. The first rule to observe is the correct position in which to have a person when operating on them. You cannot give one a good face massage sitting up in a chair; they must be in a reclining position, and far enough back so the workman can stand behind them and easily get at them; after getting the patient in correct position, tuck the towel carefully around the neck, bearing in mind that hot towels are to be applied and that they will dampen the clothing about the neck unless it is properly protected. Nothing could depiive the customer of the good results or good face treatment more than to leave your place of business, with a lot of damp or wet clothing about his neck. Second. See that all outer accumulations of dust and dirt are removed; if the face is real dirty, lather it up freely and wash off all surface dirt carefully, as the cream to be applied is not so much for cleaning the outward part as it is for cleansing the pores from all impurities. The face should be smooth shaved, as beard, even a day's growth, hinders the operator. To bring the blood to the surfce, open the pores and prepare the skin for the cream; hot towels or rubber bags, filled with hot water, are applied to the face and head until it is moist with persperation, then the cream is ap- plied immediately, and evenly distributed over the entire face, neck, and on and around the ears; then, before the face has time to dry, the operator should begin to rub 40 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE and knead the face, as in Fig. 35- The little arrowheads siow the movements of the fingers for the forehead and around the eyes, which should be massaged first, for by s i doing- you rub the cream into the skin, and out before it begins to dry the least bit: (This should be done ail over the face, but in some cases it begins to dry quickly.) In all various rubbing and kneading movements you should work in opposite directions from all the lines and wrinkles of the face, for instance: you know that the lines of the forehead run across from temple to temple, except in short ones between the eyebrows; hence, you should work light across these lines, and with a firm but gentle pres- sure, follow the directions shown by the arrows. Never rub downwards toward the eyes as this tends to make wrinkles and cause furrows. Third. Rubbing from the base of the nose backward in any direction, and rubbing the eyelids and ears as shown in Fig. 36. This constitutes most of the rubbing process until the finishing begins. Fourth. The kneading rotary movements. Now comes the massage proper; the ears, on the forehead, and over the eyes; there is not enough flesh to knead much, but on the neck and around the cheeks you may lie-in the rotary, kneading motion, as in tig. 37. Begin at the base of the nose and at the point of the chin, on the cheek and chin, and firmly knead, with a circular mo- tion upward and backward as far as the outer corner of the eyes, for the first movement; then from the point of the chin to the bottom of the ears, and around the front of the ears, for the second. On thin-faced people this movement is more essential than any other, as it helps to develop tissues and muscles on the face. Fifth. Now work the neck by turning the head to one side and perform a simple pinching movement, by using the thumb and forefinger, or more effectively made with the first two fingers and the thumb. This is really a dainty movement and when properly executed is boih pleasant and beneficial, as it works the cream out thor- oughly, and at the same time seems to generate a current of feeling between the operator and the one having the work done- The tips of the fingers being the most sensi- tive and having by far the most feeling in them, causes the pinching movement to be very popular. You may understand this movement more fully by practicing on yourself. Place your thumb gently against the face, then work your first two fingers swiftly, though very effemin- ately. Note the glow and animation caused. Practice on your own face will enable you to determine just the amount of squeezing and pinching your patron requires. Tf his skin is loose use one hand t<> stretch the skin, while MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 41 you massage with the other; holding it not only prevents it from rolling around but avoids bruising. Sixth. Around the base of the nose on each side is a natural wrinkle or line, and when giving a treatment do not forget, to give special attention to these lines as foreign matter easily collects there and it is a good home for the blackhead. Regular massage and cleanliness will eventually do away with blackheads. Seventh. After going through the rubbing, pinching •and kneading movement, take a damp towel and wipe all particles of cream, either soft or dry, from the face and ears; then another application of hot towels is necessary to remove all matter and finish up. The face will now present a healthy, glowing appearance from the hot towels and exercise given it. A cold towel should be used 10 close up the pores, and prevent cold from settling in the face, which would cause it to appear swollen and make the muscles of the face flabby. Eigth. Having thoroughly cleaned all parts of the face, you may now apply some kind of cream or face lo- tion beneficially. If it is a good preparation, it will in- vigorate the skin and cause the face to retain its fresh, healthy look longer. Some like a strong, pungent lotion which burns the face, while others prefer a soothing cream or cocoa butter finish. MACHINE MASSAGE. That massage is becoming more popular every day is demonstrated by the fact that large numbers of people (both sexes) are now practicing it and have made a pro- fession of it. A great many machines have been manu- factured for no other purpose than to give these treat- ments. Out of all the mechanical inventions which have flooded the country some are bound to be superior to others. The author, however, is not writing for any par- ticular machine, razor, or line of barber supplies, and does not wish to express himself as a judge of any of them; still it seems feasible that mechanical massage is a meritorious innovation, from the hahd manipulations, and where so many professional men are availing themselves of the op- portunity to equip their places with machines, it shows the practical man plainly that a wider field is open to him. Some medical authorities claim that of all the different procedures in massage, vibration is the most elective. Let it be as it may; facial massage, both hand and ma- chine, will eventually be part of the Service in all barber -hops; for it is already a fixture in all first class shops. 42 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE In shops where live, active business men want tonsorial service of the best kind; in places where they are not satisfied with the conventional haircut and shave, but are looking for more invigoration than comes from either of these; in these shops face massage is- a real commodity,, as it gives rest, tone and comfort to each and all. The operations and movements are easy, if you know how r and to see one give them seems simple, but they can only be acquired properly by studious practice. Ynu should become as proficient as possible, for, as said before, face massage has come to stay. There is a difference in the cream used for' hand and machine treatments, as one rubs in and is rubbed out, and the other rubs in and must be washed out, or off.. DYEING. The art of dyeing- in all the different Shades and' tinges, is one Which stands out alone. Barbers may color hair, one or two colors and do* fair work, but when it comes to dyeing human hair on the head it is a tedious undertaking and one that few bar- bers feel satisfied with after they undertake it; of course, there is no reason why a barber should not be able to do this work, if he has plenty of it to do, but most of them have not. In small cities, or towns, where there is not a dyeing specialist, the barber might as well do it, as not. It resembles some parts of the barber's other work in this way; on some customers you will loose money — dyeing at the regular prices — unless you are an adept, fur the utmost care must be taken, or you will have to do the work over. HOW TO DYE II VI IS. First- Wash the hair thoroughly: it must be entirely clean or the hair will not take the dye. Second. Dry thoroughly before applying the dye. Third. Apply the dye according to directions, then dry the hair again. Fourth. Rewash the hair With soft water; dry and comb. HEALTH TIPS— THE SKIN. The skin is a tough, thin, semi-transparent, close- fitting garment for the protection of our. tender flesh. being elastic it is adapted to every motion of the body, and not only acts as a covering, but is an active organ' which if given the proper attention helps to keep our MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 43 bodies healthy. It replaces itself as fast as it wears out, and oils itself to preserve its smoothness. What is usually called the skin is only the cuticle or covering of the cutis or true skin. Figure 3S. The True Skin. The true skin is full of nerves or blood vessels, while the cuticle or epidermis has neither. We notice this in shaving; on some faces we may scrape layer after layer of the cuticle off before we get down to the true skin, but when the razor goes below the cuticle it is followed by pain and blood. So insensible is this outer layer on some parts of the body that we may run a needle through the thick parts, especially on the palms of the hands or the soles of the feet, without giving us pain. This cuticle is composed of small, flat scales which it constantly sheds from the surface in the form of scurf; these scales, however, are just as constantly formed from the cutis below. By staining the outside skin this forma- tion becomes more noticeable, as most any kind of stain on the outer skin will wear off in a week's time- Most reptiles shed their cuticle at regular intervals. Value of the Skin. The cuticle is invaluable in preventing diseases and poison from entering the system. In vaccination the vaccine matter must be inserted beneath the cuticle to enter the blood and take effect, as the blood is in the true skin only. The Complexion. In the newly made cells on the underside of the cuti- cle is the coloring pigment. It is composed of tiny grains or globules, and in the varying tint of this coloring mat- ter lies the difference in complexion between the blond*; and brunette. Most all nationalities have coloring matter in their skin, in fact, all but the Albinos: they are said to have no coloring pigment in their skin, hair or eyes, conse- quently they have no complexion. The sun has a very marked effect upon this coloring pigment, causing it to accumulate when exposed to its rays; this accumulation is tan, and when the coloring matter gathers in spots it forms freckles. To remove tan and freckles is much more difficult than to keep the skin clear by preventing sun- burn; like health, the preservation of the skin, or health, either, is much easier than the cure of a disease. HEALTH TIPS. We cannot bundle up sleep tonight for tomorrow night's use, nor can we cram our stomachs at one meal because vve expect to eat sparingly :it the next. Nature 44 MACK'S BARbERS' GUIDE does nothing before her appointed time, and any attempt to hurry her means ultimate disaster, Cor there Is no such thing- as cheating nature; she may not present the oil! the same day we violate her laws, but it we overdraw our account at her bank and give her a mortgage on our life and body she will surely foreclose. Disease of any kind cripples the young as well as the old, and there is no kind of achievement equal to perfect health; no intense pleasures; no strong emotions; no flery ambitions come to those who lack it; every one who knows you, reads your weakness, lack of health and vigor in your unsteady eye or hand, or your hesitating step. Your more progressive brothers will note your infirmities in every let- ter you write, in .-very speech you make, in every thing you do. You cannot disguise it, and the probabilities are, you will full as Car below the successful business line as you are In the health line, Whal would gray hairs and wrinkles have to do with youth If we lived, and our forc- fathers hud lived as they should, Young men and women are bald, gray and wrinkled nowadays before they are out of their twenties, and many are old before they reach middle age- The Caoilities of your mind will sympathize with every defed of your body, so you must be strong physically as well as mentally. The struggle Cor life and high living has become so Intense in this competitive, nerve-goading, as well as enterprising age, that only the strong and robust and those of great staying power can expect to reach the high- est i A weak, ohestless, Coroelesa, hesitating, half- developed, diseased young man may make a living, but he will never climb very high; this kind of a fellow seldom gmp1 these men to go to the nicer places, if they were not full of this "brain paralyzer." THE n \iu. The Cse and- Value of Tt. If the value of the hair to the human race was to be determined by the amount of care generally shown in its preservation, we would be inclined to consider it as an almost useless appendage, but without this gift of nature, accidents would be more fatal, and humanity would be shorn of its most beautiful adornment. Hair has been an object of admiration through all ages of the human race, and if kept properly it Is a great factor in promoting personal beauty. It is the chief adorn- ment of woman and should be a source of pleasurable pride to man, for without it the handsomest face sinks into insignificant plainness. As a defensive agent the hair of the head forms a thick, elastic cushion, and in many Instances has prevented MACK'S BARBERS GUIDE 47 fatal injuries. The eyebrows defend the eyes, and the eye- lashes catch flying particles of dust and keep it from the -eyeballs. Pew people really appreciates the value of their hair until it is gone- The Anatomy of a Hair. The hair Is a modified form of the skin, being an epidermic structure. The nails of the fingers and toes; the feathers of a bird; the bristles of a hog; the scaly back of a turtle and the horns of cattle all correspond to the hair in composition and use. It is found on nearly all parts of the body, except the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet. The out- side of a hair is hard and compact, consisting of layers of colorless scales, which overlie or lap one another. Un- Figure 38 'Shows a sectional view of the skin, highly magnified, with a healthy hair growing out of it. 1 and 4 show the route of the epidermic cells as they are conveyed from the surface to the root of the hair or papilla, 5. 2. The shaft or main body of the hair. 3. The sebaceous glands, the over secretion of which 3s partially the cause of too much dandruff, 6. Fat cells. 7. 'A muscle. S. A perspiratory tube with gland. !>. Cuticle or epidermis. 48 MACks l;\kT,| RV (dJIDF: derneath this compact, scaly substance lies a softer and more fibrous layer; the interior being porus or pithy, aj in Fig. 38, No. 2. In the second, or fibrous layer, is found the coloring pigment, which gives it its color, while the liquid by which the hair receive part of its nourishment is conveyed through the pithy center. Each hair grows from a minute bulb, called the papilla, No, 5, Fig. 38, which is only an elevation of the cutis or derma. From ilif surface of this bulb the hair is produced by the constant formation of new cells— epidermic — see- Fig. 38, No. l. shows the way these surface cells are trans- ferred down the follicle at the bottom of the papilla. The papilla or the termination of the nerves which cover the entire body, and, as has been stated before, hair ex- ists "ii nearlj all parts of the body. Should you wish to destro> your hair you would have a very difficult, tedious and painful job, as you would have to §ro down deep in the true skin and destroy the papilla, which no! only contains blood, hut nerves. This is why scars generally fail to produce hair, the papilla being totally destroyed from the same cam.e '>i the seni' Pulling the hair out does not destroy the hud). foi ii uninjured otherwise, it will produce a new hair. When the papilla is totally destroyed it will never grow hair again. Look, for instance, at the heads that are so bald that they have become slick and shiny, there you have ;i case whore possibly the papilla has been destroyed, and on these heads ehauees for hair is slim. There Is no feeling in the hair as, we may cut it Without pain, hut by pulling it we become aware of its delicate sensitiveness, as nerves are found in the follicles in which the hair is rooted. Tiny mucles interlaced among the fibers of the skin contract under the influence of cold, electricity < te.. causing the hair to stand on end. In horses :nid other animals, which are able to shake their whole skin, to protect themselves from Hies, these mucsles are said to be more developed than in man. The dog or for example, when angered, excited or surprised, can immediately raise the hair on their bodies. Life of the Hair. It has been said thai the life of the hair is from two to six years; this is supposition, however, as it will grow oni\ aboul eight or ten inches in a year's time: now giv^ it six years, the limit, that would make the longest hair not over sixty inches; so it is plain to see that in some cases the hair has either grown more than ten inches a year or has lived for more than six years, as eases are MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 49 frequent where the hair has obtained a length of over five foot Composition of the Hair. Scientists tell us that the hair is composed of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen together with a little lime and iron. Its most characteristic constituent is sulphur, of which it contains from five to eight per cent. The dis- agreeable odor from burning hair is caused by gas, de- rived from the sulphur it contains; this gas is called sul- phurated hydrogen. Scientists also say that from sixty 10 seventy per cent of the middle-aged people, or even thos< of a younger class who have gray hairs, are of a rheumatic tendency and suffer from an excess of uric acid, in the blood, or from exposure or dissipation. We all know the action of acid upon iron and as the coloring pigment of the hair is composed principally of iron, you can readily see why it might cause grayness. Cause of Poor Hair. The blood is said to be life. The hair is also claimed by some to grow after death, but it does not; the appear- ance of growtli is due to the fact that by the shrinking of the skin the parts of the hair below the surface are caused to project, which is especially noticeable in the beard. Anemic, or poor-blooded people, have a weak or scanty growtli of hair, in fact, all parts of the body are more or less affected by poor blood. The follicle of the hair is so intimately connected with the minute arteries and capillaries that each follicle bas- ils own special supply of blood. Now, if these small arteries and capillaries fail to operate, or if the blood in them is poor, there is bound to be a detrimental effect upon the whole structure of the hail-. Curly hair arises from its oval or imperfect shape; it is not strong equally, as it bends or curls on the weak side and as a general rule it is not so strong and healthy as straight hair; the natural oil is deficient, which often causes the hair to split at the ends or to be constantly breaking off where possibly you would imagine this to be some other than a natural cause. Remedy. This is where the singeing theory prevails. "When the hair begins to show an unhealthy growth by breaking or splitting it should be cut or singed, and singeing seems to be more practical, for by doing this you sear the end «-f the hair — just as you would a small rubber tube by burn- ing — thus keeping the natural life fluid within, causing it to be flexible and pliant. As said before, the liquid which 50 MACK'S BARBER'S GUIDE. nourishes the hair is conveyed from the follicle through the hollow or pithy center of it, and to nourish it properly, it should ooze through the second, or fibrous layer, and keep it pliant; now if it is cut, the question is, will it heal immediately or will it continue in a dry, brittle condition and keep splitting? Authorities differ on this subejct; presumably, the fact is, that man has not yet fathomed the infinite divisability of matter. Difference in the Hair. The hair differs, not only in color, but in texture and composition. Black hair contains the largest quantity of iron; brown or chestnut, magnesia; light hair, an excess of sulphur; while gray hair contains less iron and sulphur, but more "phosphate." One who makes it a study can de- tect the difference in the smell of gray and black hair when burning, so they claim. Some is naturally dry. brittle and apparently dead, while other hair is oily or wiry. The quality and conditions of the hair varies greatly with the different periods of life, and to care for it intel- ligently you should be thoroughly acquainted with these conditions. Necessity of the Shampoo. It is necessary to clean the hair regularly, since .the hair and scalp can not be healthy any more than the skin, unless it is cleansed of impurities. The oil glands of the scalp choke up and become irritated, this causes a scanty and, later, an over secretion, making the hair oily and causing a scab or scale; the hair follicle become unhealthy so that the hair .grows poorly or falls out, and when one falls out that is eight or ten inches long it takes about twelve months to replace it with another of equal length. Washing the hair is imperative as a matter of per- sonal cleanliness, and a shampoo once a month is not a day too often for any head of hair. Just as soon as the hair feels sticky, mats up, becomes too oily, or comes out, it is evident that the hair needs a shampoo- The frequency of the head wash depends on the em- ployment and individual peculiarities; some people have employment which demands that they should wash their hair once a day; in cases of this kind the hair should be worn short and washed when the face is washed, or a close- fitting cap should be worn to keep the dirt out of the hair — this is not good for the hair though, as it keeps the head too warm. Pure water on short hair will never encourage its dropping out, but where it is long, too frequent hair wash- ing Will cause hair rot as the water washes away the MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. 51 natural oil supply faster than it should, leaving the hair dry and causing the scalp to be scaly, especially if too warm water is used. Some people's hair becomes more oily in the same length of time than others, as some peo- ple perspire more freely, naturally, or on account of their occupations, than others, so hear in mind that it should, under all circumstances, be kept clean. How Poor Circulation Affects the Hair. tmproper circulation In the minute blood vessels of the scalp soon cause the hair to lose its vitality; it be- comes dun looking and brittle, and the little sacks from which it grows are actually choked oul of existence. It Is claimed some baldness has been due to microbes, but the microbe of baldness could not exist If the roots of the hair were properly nourished with a sufficient supply of pure blood, and the scalp kept in a perfectly healthy con- dition. Hair Tonics. Hair tonics may be good to bring ouj the impurities which clog the follicles and t<> destroy the microbes. When tonics have the proper Ingredients, scientifically com- pounded, they are undoubtedly beneficial, if applied cor- rectly. Application or Tonics. Proper application of hair tonics is very Important, as the scalp, ami not the body of tin- hair alone, is to be benefited. When N"i!ic people wet their hair with tonic th-^y think it should stop falling out immediately and become healthy. This is one reason thai good tonics have been abandoned and bald heads have continued to exist, be- cause we neglect our bodies, our heads and our hair. First. Our bodies by general dissipation: by not taking the proper food at the proper time: by not taking the necessary ex r -r^ else at the correct time, causing poor blood and sluggish circulation, second, By not keeping our scalp clea^n, and in at least a semi-sanitary condition- Third. By not brush- ing our hair vigorously, applying our tonics direct to th^ scalp and rubbing them in thoroughly. Is there any remedy or preventive for barbers to pre- scribe for poor hair and baldness? Yes. Most decidedly yes! Although some professional medical men may ridi- cule the idea. We know that people's hair falls out de- spite the treatment of hairdressers, » doctors and barbers, We know that people fall victims to ordinary complaints, and finally Buccumb despite the medieai profession and all they can do. Why do doctors prescribe medicine and 52 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE massage? If these restore new life to the limbs and ani- mation to the body, why will not good tonics, coupled with the laws of health, restore life to the papilla and preserve the hair and its color? AYith pure air and food, good blood and all the cx- ternal treament necessary improvement is sure to follow; in fact, this should keep the hair growing luxuriantly. Dandruff (Scborrhoea). Until 188 7 dandruff was classified by specialists as a functional disease, that is one that is developed in tlv? body, but in the year mentioned a German specialist, Pro* fessor Unna, of Hamburg, Germany, came to the conclus- ion, by continued experiments, that it was not a Cunctibnal disease, but entirely parasitic; that is, a disease that is caught. To cure any disease you must first determine the cause, then the road is clear for a cure. At first scientific men refused to accept Unna's verdict, but later, after other scientists began to make demonstrations and assertions, his statements were accepted by some as true, and the scientific fraternity began to treat the dan- druff disease as a parasitical one. Before this discovery, however, medical men prescribed internal medicine, and expected to cure it that way. Internal treatment, no doubt. would help to cure it, but whether it can be cured either way permanently is yet to be seen; no doubt it can, as small pox and many other diseases of the same nature. i. e., they are caught in the same manner, or now handled easily. Grayness. What is grayness? This in some cases is caused by absence of coloring matter in the hair, but 'tis said that often it is caused by the presence of air globes in the fibrous portion of the hair, these minute air globes being so situated as to obscure the coloring pigment. Scientists tell us that the cells, of which the fibrous portion of the hair is composed, instead of being filled with a horny plasma or impregnated with an aqueous fluid, and that the wasting of this fluid leaves behind it vacuums, which in the later growth of the hair, the shaft becomes filled with air- This causes us to consider what grayness really is in this case. No doubt we have all noticed the difference in the shade of gray hair, both in young and elderly people. To gray- ness of old age is brought on by natural decay; nature failing to secrete the coloring matter in about the same way as the complexion fades or becomes sallow, and a gen- eral decay of the system sets in. While that of youth is often caused by the air globes, these arising from com- plaints of the scalp, contraction of the fibrous tissues of MACK'S I5ARBUR5' GUIDE 5 3 the cerium, or lower skin, causes pressure on the delicate blood capillaries and nerve tissue g [ueiitly impoverish- ing the plasmatical or lymphatic fluids, w'lich nourish the hair. When the coloring pigment exists, the hair has a slight yellowish tint or stained appearance, bul when the gray- nesa is caused by the presence of air, ii assumes a white or steel gray color. Usually the decrepit, feeble, old per- son's hair is of the former color, while the wiry, active, old people invariably have hair of a steel gray color, or it re- tains its natural color. These people are the men and women who have hud pure blood with a good circulation during earlier life, Youthful Graynegs, Gray hair is, however, not confined to the aged, ana in some instances quite young' children are gray, very frequent. ly grayness comes with middle-aged people and particularly among these who possess naturally wavy or frizzled hair. The darker and coarser this frizzy hair, the .earlier it turns gray. The cause generally being loss of coloring pigment; tiiis js often congenital or hereditary. It is not at all un- usual to see a boy or girl who resemble their parents; we often see them who have eyeg exactly like their father or mother, both in color and jn shape; why then can't we suppose family hair to he likewise, Sudden change of eolor in the hair of young people may be due to shock or exposure, as the nerves control the action of the muscles which are Interlaced around and between the blood ves- A shock may cause contraction, or shut off the flow of blood and thus allow the air to escape Into the shaft of the hair, producing air globes and causing the white or gray effect. Cases of gray hair regaining its original color are very rare, but M geems possible that it might, should the muscles relax and the blood circulation become normal, but no doubt when the tiny muscles contract, a Kind of paralysis comes over them and they become either ridged, or lose their power to act entirely: this may be what we call a hide-bound scalp. Often gray hairs «h©w up on the temples before other parts of the head begins to turn gray; this, some say, is caused by pressure at oar hats upon the temporal arteries, Interrupting th© How of blood to the half Sacks, around the temples, A- the hair \S formed by constant formation of epir- o-rmu Us, its growth la the result of a process or adding to at the roetg, the nowr additions pushing the fully developed ones upwards, through the mouth of the follicle, The supply of thest eeJJg eemes from th»i ciurrpno of \ho skin, passing down ttm follicle they ar« added to at the roots of the hair, forming n part of the 54 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE fibrous or corticle portion of the hair itself- '! his showa Us the important part which the circulation of pure blood, in the skin, plays in constructing: a healthy hair, for if the skin is too dry and scaly, and the eperdermic cells are shed on the surface, they are not conveyed down the folli- cle in sufficient quantities to promote healthy hair growth, thus the haii is stunted and may come out, but if it does hot come out, air is admitted into the construction of the hair, through an insufficient supply of eperdermic cells; this, no doubt, being one of the most common and preva- lent causes of grayneas. Grayness No Disgracd It is easy to understand why nun. as well as women. in these days of competition between young and old. view with alarm the advent of gray hairs, for it is then that the hair has that frizzled, dowdy, stained appearance, during the transition from its natural color to white, except it be with very black-haired people, then a sprinkling of silver? gray often lias a decidedly good effect. Hair dyes con- taining strong coloring matter, are almost universally per- nicious substances, depending for their coloring propertied upon the action of lead or lunar caustic they generally contain. Fashion has her repentant freaks, as well as her ruinous follies, and it is a healthful sign that the era of Universal hair dyeing has been blotted out from the pres- ent fashion calendar. The gray hairs of age are now hon- ored with the highesl place in style, as well as in good s t use and cleanliness. There are less red hairs to the same amount of sur- face than any other color; more black than red. Dressing the Hair. Style and vanity often interferes with the growth and luxuriance Of the hair among women, as the hair is burnt, curled and twisted into such Shapes that it can get only so long, no matter what condition their systems may be in. Nature is sure to rebel against fashion, whenever fash- ion gets in her road, and the Simplest mode of wearing the hair is usually the best. They should not attempt to make it curl by burning. Squeezing or twisting it up. for the one? who have naturally curly hair are trying just as hard to straighten theirs out. RARBEirs ITCH. After shaving very close, microscopic inspection show's little drops of blood on the face, caused by removing the outer skin and exposing the minute capillaries: in this condition thev absorb most any disease they come in con- MACK'S BARBERS' GUiDL 55 tact with, and this is what causes the unpleasant itching sensation felt after being shaved too close, or improperly. Often when a man shaves himself he scrapes off part and pulls out the rest of his whiskers, and when engaged in this operation, he too takes off the outer skin in places, If he comes in contact with germs, while his face is in this shape, they are taken up by the blood, but the disease may not break out for days after, so if he is the man, who occasionally enjoys, a good shop shave, he has a good rea- son (so he thinks) to blame the last barber who shaved him. Whether there is really a disease, that is and should be called "barber's itch," when it comes to classifying skin diseases, is a question which no doubt every boss barber of any importance, as well as a few M. D.'s, have asked them- selves- It is, so some claim, an eruption of the epidermis or outer skin at first, but later affects the under skin and finally develops into bad sores. Some claim it to be caused by close shaving alone; others claim it is caused by various infections, w T hich looks more plausible. The man who shaves himself at home sometimes has it; the fellow who is unclean in his regular habits and carelessly neglects to wash himself, accumulates a choice collection of germs and bacilli, which under favorable conditions might cause small pox, measles or any other of the various complaints which the human flesh is heir to. A pimple or scratch may become infected by these germs; that part become irritated, and if the system is in that half-way shape, it will quickly spread to other parts of the body. The well- dressed individual who gets three or four shaves a weex, and is continually insisting on you to shave him two days under the skin, is extending a very cordial invitation to these germs so dreaded by master barbers, as well as the unfortunate victim, who has once come in contact with it. The man who persistently disobeys the laws of health, by taking all kinds of food and drink at all hours, and by exercising irregular, becomes dissipated; his blood is in poor shape; he is just on the verge of collapse, and is an easy victim to any disease which he comes in contact with; his skin is ready to absorb all the impurities of the disease calendar, and as he walks around shaking hands with his friends, he too is extending an invitation, unawares. He may contract it one place on his body, and it may break out at another. If it breaks out on his face or neck, the ordinary M. D. is generally ready to pronounce it BAR- BER'S ITCH, when it is not that disease, but something else. There are a great many skin disorders, and when people become so neglectful as to let their blood get out of shape and their entire system run down so that it 56 MAOC5 BARBER'5 GUIDE readily takes in every disease prevalent, they will catch the so-called barber's itch in twenty places outside, tu where tiiey contract it once, in the first-class shaving par- lor. All first-class shops keep strong- antiseptics, and when the customer has been shaved — unless he' is a crank and does not want it — these lotions are applied. The barber may as well prevent the disease when he can, but when he is not able to prevent, and it is contracted elsewhere, he should have a cure for it in his shop. The time may soon come when more trades and occu- pations will be turned into professions, as the barber trade is now slowly but surely doing. The barber now has, in a good many states, to go before a state board of profes- sional men and stand an examination in JLatin, medicine, physical culture, agriculture, and a good many other cul- tures, before he can remove the hirsute appendage accord- ing to law, so some of the cranks will tell you. Some of the older boys in the craft (the ones who really know how to wield the blade and remove your whsikers without cut- ting your throat, but who do not know so much about antiseptics and germicides) seem somewhat provoked at the license law. at times, because they do not understand the tirst symptoms of tonsilitis, spinal meningitis, lock- jaw or hydrophobia, nevertheless, old boys, keep your spirits up by thinking and studying the case over; always looking on the bright side of life, as you listen to the music Of the shears, which contribute s more to the gaiety of the situation than worrying about what is to be and the so-called barber's Itch. Barber's itch (sycosis) is (so experts claim) a pustu- lar eruption upon the scalp or bearded part of the face, possibly due to ringworm, acne or impetigo. To under- stand the disease and to successfully treat it you must have some idea of the construction of the skin, also of other skin diseases- '1 he patient, too, must help you by taking care of himself. Some doctors tell you that it will not break out on other parts of the body, except that which is covered with heavy hair, for they say it is a disease of the hair roots only, but in treating a patient do not let him pick the sores on his head or face and then rub or scratch other parts of his body with his unclean fingers, for it is apt 10 spread. Eczema, acne. Impetigo, and barber's itch are very much alike, especially the last two. Eczema is an inflam- matory disease of the skin, characterized by redness and itching. Acne is similar, but more of a gland disease, ivhile impetigo and Barber's itch are very much the same, that is, they are difficult to diagnose at certain stages, as they both discharge a watery exudation which dries and leaves a crust or seal'. The scientific wax of treating these MAGICS BARBERS 1 GUIDE 57 diseases is to apply salves or ointments which prevent thorn from spreading and dry them up. Watery solutions are not, as a rule, so good. The recipes in this book for these (diseases are infallible, HISTORY ON THE TRADE. The word barber is a derivative of the Latin word barba, meaning beard; a person who shaves others and ■cuts their hair. The barber's trade is a very ancient one, as it is men- tioned in the Bible, Ezekiel, fifth chapter and first verse. The practice of shaving the beard was common among the ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. The art was practiced in Greece 420 years before Christ, and it is said to have been brought from Sicily to Rome 299 years before ■Christ. Among the ancient Israelites the removal of the beard by shaving or pulling it out was a sign of mourning. In former times barbers served the public in the ca- pacity of surgeons, as well as hair cutters; the trade and profession being conjoined, but barbers only practiced • minor operations, such as pulling teeth and letting blood. In England, barbers first received incorporation in 1481, .with certain privileges. Some of these privileges entitled ,.them to. practice surgery, as in this article, while at that Ume-;.and at that place, surgeons were prohibited iunn : shaving, which was no doubt a good thing for them- In rl 7 4 5,.. however.,. in the same country, barbers and surgeons .were, separated into separate and distinct trades, or professions. In the days following, the barber shop be- came a favorite resort for idle persons, and in addition to .its attraction as a. focus of news, a lute, violin, or some . other, instrument, was kept for the entertainment of wait- ing customers. The barber's sign in those days consisted in a small . .pole, something similar to the one of today, only at that time a basin was suspended from the pole, which repre- sented the vessel for the blood. The fillet, or spiral, red stripe around the pole, indicated the ribbon for bandaging the arm when bleeding. How long this primitive sign was used to represent barber shops, before the date mentioned here, history..does not record, but there is one thing we .do know,, and that is, that a sign of this description still represents ^ a : barber shop, and will continue to, until the barbers, and they alone, see fit to change it. It seems that the red, white, and .blue pole would be more appropriate for. surgeons, than barbers,, if. the symbol counts for any- thing. B ARBER LEGISLATION. To read and study facts concerning barber legisla- tion: the cause and effect of it; especially the gnorl pro- 58 MACK'S BARBERS' GUlDt duced by it, is something which every workman should study with profit. What is it, and what was the cause of the first law being formed? To understand the answer and to be benefited one must put aside prejudice; put it aside more fully in reading along these lines than any other, for the masses, who are influential or closely con- nected with our profession, have views diametrically op- posite ours, or what ours should be. Let us start with Minnesota, for here was where the first laws were made in the United States to govern bar- bers. In 1897 a bill presented to the Minnesota legislature,, was enacted, making the first law to regulate the practice of barbering in the United States, or probably the first <»f its kind in existence. The majority of the barbers in tho state were in favor of the law then, and must still be, as their law has never been repealed or annulled. There was numerous causes for this initial law. The enterprising barber is precisely like any an- other ambitious man; being continually dissatisfied with his conditions, he is constantly looking for new remedies, and seeking a panacea to blot out all complications, which might arise to handicap him in his quest for greatness; perchance he could see genuine merit in the enactment of laws to compel unsanitary, unscrupulous individuals to serve the proper apprenticeship time, instead of pushing himself on the public. We all know that if one of these unreasonable chaps opens a shop next door to us he will hurt our trade, even if he never has the same patron twice, for the public will blindly stumble in these shop*. Just before the year previously mentioned, a portion of our country was infested with the so-called barber colleges. Minnesota, or near there, was headquarters for these schools, and they were conducted on a very cleverly schemed system, a system which fleeced many a young man out of what few dollars he had, by making him be- lieve that a six or eight weeks' course would sufficiently fit him for a first-clasS position, or make him a practical and competent boss barber. This no doubt was the first and real cause of laws be- ing enacted — not to give back the dupe his money, but to govern the so-called graduate and to compel him to filf the bill or take down his sign. A great many of these boys are worse off when they finish an eight weeks" course than they would be to start a shop without any schooling, and learn by absorption, for they are not out only their tuition, but in most instances they are started wrong; imagine a person starting out to practice medicine with six or eight weeks' instructions, or a man to practice law with the same experience. Now these examples are a little in the ex- treme; still if you start each .»ut with a common school edu- MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 59 cation to study medicine, law and barbering, the likelihood Is that the one studying medicine or the one studying law will be an M. D. or a lawyer before the apprentice is what could be termed an A-l workman, fully competent to con- duct the business as it should be. Since 18 97 some fifteen or twenty states have enacted more or less similar laws, which shows for itself that law Is coming, whether all the barbers want it or not. If a man is prone to argue against this law question, he can show you all the mean things that every state board exam- iner has done while in office; he can explain to you just how much red tape is connected with every law from the time it was a mere bill until it passed and became a law; he may be able to give you an itemized expense account of each member of every board from the time of his first aspirations to hold office until he was appointed or elected, Just to show you that it is all a bundle of unnecessary ex- pense and downright foolishness, but there are two sides to every question. If a law is made and does not at first prove beneficial, because of some little flaw, should this alone stop the progress of other enactments? If a calamity holwer howls because the board is the cause of the State extracting one or five dollars (never over five) from him every twelve months, should the progressive, brainy barber rise up with the howler and say "Down with legislation?" Do the barbers want law? Undoubtedly they do, in some states, the majority at least, for if they do not. why don't they rise up, out of that shiftless, unpretentious manner and oppose it in a body. Law should be made by repre- sentation of the most of the people interested in that spe- cific law, although agitators may present a radical bill, and because they have a paid up vote in the legislatures they can railroad it through. In laws of this kind the weak points finally show up and it is annulled, as in some states it has been. The question is, are they for better or for worse? Do the state boards, the license laws and the extra •expense help to improve the workman or better the shops? Or does It seem as if the barbers, who are trying to raise the trade from a trade to a profession, or wasting their time looking after laws, and trying to force something on their brother barbers they do not want? Some of the bar- bers who have been on the state board, especially those who have accomplished the most good, have been men whose time has been worth more to them In their own shops than it was attending conventions and examinations. Following is a copy of the first law regulating the practice of barbering in the United States. Other state laws are more or le^s similar to this law: 60 MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE LAW REGULATING PRACTICE OF BARBERIXG IN MINNESOTA. Chapter 186, Laws of 1897: An act to regulate the practice of barbering, the licens- ing- of persons to carry on such practice, and to insure the better education of such practitioners in the State of Min- nesota, lie it enacted by the Legislature of the State of Minnesota Section 1. It shall be unlawful for any person to fol- low the occupation of barber in this state unless he shall have first obtained a certificate of registration, as provided In this act; provided, however, that nothing in this act con- tained shall apply to or affect any person who is now ac- tually engaged in such occupation, except as hereinafter provided. Sec. 2. A board of examiners, to consist of three (3) persons, Is hereby created to carry out the purpose and enforce the provisions of this act. Said board shall be ap- pointed by the governor, one (1) member from those per- sons who may be recommended by the several unions of journeyman barbers in this state which have been in actual existence at least two (2) years prior to the making of such recommendation; one (1) member who has been for at least three (3) years prior to his appointment an employ- ing barber in this state, and the third (3rd) a practical bar- ber who has been for at least five (5) years prior to his appointment engaged in such occupation in this state. Each member of said board shall serve for a term of two (2) years and until his successor is appointed and qualified, except in the case of the first board, whose mem- bers shall serve one (1), two (2) and three (3) years, re- spectively, as specified in their appointment. Each member of said board shall give a bond In the sum of five thousand (5,000) dollars, with sureties to be approved by the secretary of state, conditioned for the faithful performance of his duties, and shall take the oath provided by law for public officers. Vacancies upon said beard caused by death, resignation or expiration of the term of any member thereof, shall be filled by appointment from the same class of persons to which the deceased or retiring member belonged.. Sec. 3. Said board shall elect a president, secretary and treasurer: shall have its headquarters at the state can- itol; shall have a common seal, and the secretary and presi- dent shall have power to administer oaths. Sec. 4. Each member of said board shall receive a compensation of three (3) dollars per day for actual ser- vice, and ten (10) cents per mile for eacli mile actually traveled in attending the meetings of the board, which MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 61 compensation shall be paid out of any moneys in the handa of the treasurer of said board; provided, that the said com- pensation and mileage shall in no event be paid out of the state treasury. Sec. 5. Said board shall report to the legislature of this state at each of its regular meetings a full statement of the receipts and disbursements of the board during the preceding two (2) years, a full statement of its doing and proceedings, and such recommendations as to it may seem proper, looking to the better carrying out of the intents and purposes of this act. ■■ Any moneys in the hands of the treasurer of said board at the time of making such report, in excess of two hundred and fifty (250) dollars, shall 'be paid over to the state treas- urer, to be kept by him for the future maintenance of the board and to be disbursed by him upon warrants signed by the president and treasurer of said board. Sec. 6. Said board shall hold public examinations at least four (4) times in each year in at least four (4) differ- ent cities in this state, at such times and places as it may determine, notice of such meetings to be given by a publi- cation thereof at least ten (10) days before such meetings, in the capital of the state and in the county where such meeting is to be held. Sec. 7. Every person now engaged in the occupation of barber in this state shall, within ninety (90) days after the approval of this act. file with the secretary of said board an affidavit setting forth his name, residence and the length of time during- which, and the places where he has practiced such occupation, and shall pay to the treasurer of said board one (1) dollar, and a certificate of registration entitling him to practice said occupation shall be issued to him. Sec. 8. Any person desiring to obtain a certificate of registration under this act shall make application to said board therefor and shall pay to the treasurer of said board an examination fee of five (5) dollars, and shall present himself at the next regular meeting of the board for the examination of applicants, whereupon said board shall pro- ceed to examine such person, and being satisfied that he is above the age of nineteen (19) years, of good moral char- acter, free from contagious or infectious diseases, has either (A) studied the trade for three (3) years as an ap- prentice under a qualified and practicing barber, or (B) studied the trade for at least three (3) years in a properly appointed and conducted barber school under the instruc- tions of a competent barber, or (C) practiced the trade in another state for at least three (3) years, and is possessed of the requisite skill in said trade to properly perform all the duties thereof, including his ability in the preparation 62 \i\CKS B\RB P RS* Gl'IDF. of the tools, shaving, hair cutting and all the duties and services incident thereto, and is possessed of sufficient knowledge concerning the common diseases of the face and skin to avoid the aggravation and spreading thereof in the practice of said trade; his name shall be entered by the board in the register hereafter provided for, and a certifi- cate of registration shall be issued to him authorizing him to practice said trade in this state; provided, that whenever It appears that applicant has acquired his knowledge of said trade in a barber school, the board shall be judges of whether said barber school is properly appointed and con- ducted and under proper instruction to give sufficient train- ing in such trade. All persons making application for examination under the provisions of this act shall be allowed to practice the occupation of barbering until the next regular meeting of said board. Sec. 9. Nothing In this act shall prohibit any person from serving an apprenticeship in said trade under a bar- ber authorized to practice the same under this act, nor from serving as a student in any school for the teaching of such trade under the instruction of a qualified barber; pro- vided, that In no barber shop shall there be more than one apprentice to two (2) barbers authorized under this act to practice said occupation. Sec. 10. Said board shall furnish to each person to whom a certificate of registration is issued a card or insig- nia bearing the seal of the board and the signature of its president and secretary, certifying that the holder thereof is entitled to practice the occupation of barber in this state, and it shall be the duty of the holder of such card or in- signia to post the same in a conspicuous place in front of his working chair, where It may be readily seen by all persons whom he may serve. Sec. 11. Said board shall keep a register in which shall be entered names of all persons to whom certificates are issued under this act, and said register shall be at all times open to public inspection. Sec. 12. Said board shall have power to revoke any certificate of registration granted by it under this act for (A) conviction of crime; (B) habitual drunkenness for six (6) months immediately before a charge duly made; (C) gross incompetency, or (D) contagious or infectious dis- ease; provided, that before any certificate shall be so re- voked the holder thereof shall have notice in writing of the charge or charges against him. and shall at a day •specified in said notice, at least five (5) days after the serv- ice thereof, be given a public hearing and full opportunity to produce testimony in his behalf and to confront the wit- nesses against him. Any person whose certificate has been MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE 63 so revoked may, after the expiration of ninety (90) days, apply to have the same regranted, and the same shall be regranted to him upon a satisfactory showing that the dis- qualification has ceased. Sec. 13. To shave or trim the beard or cut the hair of any person for hire or reward received by the person performing such service, or any other person, shall be con- strued as practicing the occupation of barber within the meaning of this act. Sec. 14. Any person practicing the occupation of bar- ber without having obtained a certificate of registration, as provided by this act, or wilfully employing a barber who has not such a certificate, or falsely pretending to be qualified to practice such occupation under this act, or vio- lation of any of the provisions of this act, is guilty of a misdemeanor and, upon conviction thereof, shall be pun- ished by a fine of not less than ten (10) dollars or more than one hundred (100) dollars, or by imprisonment in the county jail not less than ten (10) days or more than ninety (90) days. Sec. 15. This act shall take effect and be in force from and after its passage. Approved April 21, 1897. FURNISHINGS. Much could be said about furnishing the barber shop, and many hints offered for the sake of economy. If you proceed to furnish it one way and later on see that you have made mistakes — which every inexperienced man will do — and are compelled to refurnish to make things har- monize, then this alone is a costly error. It is like almost any other business — if you are going to have the best of everything, you must expect it to cost you a considerable sum. Necessary furniture and equippage, to say nothing of appendages, all increase the outlay. If you are deficient, as most beginners are, then you are compelled to begin on a small scale. However, before you buy a piece of fur- niture you should plan out some particular kind of shop, and, as you buy it piece at a time, add it to the first you buy. More and more is the labor of the barber lessened and made more productive by the invention and introduction of modern mechanical appliances. The hydraulic chair, with the roll paper head rest, compressed air, massage ma- chines in endless variety; electric registering machines to take the place of the old-time ''next;" shampoo hood, the new-tyle cash registers, handy bottles, and other good things too numerous to mention, all of which help to systematize the business. Enterprise means to un- dertake to perform something: difficult Progress means to 64 MACK'S BARBERS GUIDE go forward with this undertaking, whether it be intellec- tual, moral or financial. Intellectual advancement is mere-, ly the progression of thought, and it seems that- where so- many are engaged in contriving, devising and- inventing, new and useful contrivances that the pupils of tonsorialism should at least make an effort to secure the necessary tools. and furnishings with which to conduct their business in a modern up-to-date manner; but there are scores of barbers who will not even try to do this. It has been said, and it is true, "You may as well shoot some people through the brains with a bullet as with a new idea," foi eithei would take th.ii life away. < hairs. The most prominent, most essential piece of furniture in the shop is the barber chair. Did you ever see a barbel shop without a chair? No; and you never will. You ought to know there has been a steady and marked improvement in barber chairs for the last twenty-five years, and that Ihere will be more improvements made in the future. If you are progressive you should keep posted as to what these improvements are. If you have been using the old- style stationary chair. or the one of a little later improve- ment — the revolving and reclining one — possibly you have' never made a study <> valued more 70 MACK'S BARBERS' GUiDL than artificial, but often shops are in basements or narrow, dark places, where natural light never has full sway. In these shops especially is where the most complete methods of lighting is important. Up-to-date people take advantage of new ideas. Something new is offered for sale and they buy it when it is better and cheaper than what they for- merly used — electricity for instance; this is not a new kind of light at all, but the new styles of shades, globes, prisms and reflectors used to modify it and change its effects upon the eyes, all go to make it more like natural light. The distributing of light is more important than to have more lights than are necessary. We should always have the light come from one side of us or over our shoul- ders, and never directly in front of us. The eye is too deli- cate an organ to be trifled with; more than that, a poorly lighted place is a bad way to advertise; still we must se- cure as much light at as small a cost as possible. Com- mon tin reflectors are the cheapest means of increasing a small supply to brilliancy, and when not too near the work- men, do not overtax the eye. Gooseneck fixtures extend- ing over the chairs from directly in front of the mirror serve double purpose, as the mirror reflects and shows two, Instead of one lamp. Natural gas, gasoline, oil and air, and many others, are all used, any of which beat the old-time oil lamps. The light question has become one of great diversification, and although the incandescent lamp still dominates the field of interior lighting, it is difficult to predict what will ma- terialize In the future. SIGVS. Aside from the regular pole or fixture on the outside of the shop, an attractive window sign is necessary to set off the front and show the passerby where to "head In." The name of the firm and proprietor is all that is neces- sary, or on the door glass may be: "Barber Shop En- trance"; "Entrance to Shop," or some such words, in small, neat letters. Electric signs are fine trade attractors to be used after dark. A neat sign in each bath room, with a small bottle of toilet water, or a powdered antiseptic to be used in the bath, will help to improve your bath trade. The sign is only to explain the use of the antiseptic which you provide for the bath gratis. Use small signs for selling supplies by giving a brief description of them, their merits, cost, etc. Signs made especially for singeing, explaining the good produced by it, will bring you many extra jobs. The same applies to tonics; these silent signs talk while you work. A regular "Barber Shop Bill <»f Fare" is something MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 71 that will cause much comment, and there should be one in every shop. It is something which is not absolutely neces- sary, but at the same time quite an attraction if arranged nicely, framed and hung in a conspicuous place; will not only please yourself, but save answering questions, and be a money maker for the shop. Men will come into the shop expecting to have only a plain shave, when they will see the numerous other shop accommodations listed on the bill of fare — which they really need — and spend a dollar, Possibly if they had not seen the bill they Would have stopped at the price of a shave. When arranging this bill, always put the price opposite each piece of work, as shown in the following: BARBER SHOP BILL OF FARE. Haircut I .35 Haircut — Children's 2 5 Haircut — Pompadour 50 Shave 15 Shampoo . 25 Shampoo — Fresh Egg 35 Shampoo — Dry .25 Seaf oam 15 Tonic 10 Face Lotion 10 Singeing 25 Beard Trim 25 Massage — Hand 35 Massage — Machnie 35 Head Massage 26 Bath 25 Bath — Turkish 1.50 Manicure 50 Razors Honed 50 Razors Ground 1 . 00 Dyeing— Mustache 50 Dyeing — Beard 1.60 Dyeing — Hair 3.50 Some people will see more work on this list than they ever thought of for a barber shop, while this is not as much as some shops are prepared to take care of. Where you have a special tonic, face cream, or any particular thing which you wish to sell, list it also. Keep this "Bill of Fare" hanging in a place where the most people will see it, or at times it may be wise to hang it in the window; this gives the passerby a chance to read it. On days when the shop is closed, the window is the very place for it, WASH STANDS OR BASINS. The location of the wash stand is the most important '72 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE thing that could be said about it. When individual basins arc not used for each chair, the basin should be as conve- nient for all workmen as possible, as muc'i time can be taken up walking to and from the chair. The workman must walk to the basin three times and back in giving a first-class shave; if his chair is twenty feet from the basin, he walks one hundred and twenty feet every time he shaves one man; in the course of a big day's work he may work on sixty men; this would mean, approximately, seven thousand two hundred feet, or over a mile. While walk- ing this distance some money could be taken in; so install your wash basins near the workmen, even though you are compelled to put in two or more. Water taps should never be left running, as a small leakage wears the balls and packing. FLOOR COVERINGS. Hardwood floors, waxed, are easily kept in a sanitary condition, and the owner of the building pays for them. Rubber mats may be used on these floors, with strips of linoleum laid over the part of the shop which has the most walking done on it. Tiling has the lead for elegance; it wears well, and is easily kept clean, but is very expensive. If you have a tiled floor you should keep mats of some kind for the barbers to stand on. Inlaid linoleum of the best quality, if you pick a pretty pattern, one which is easily cleaned, is durable and shows a place off well. A pattern of inlaid has the figure stamped all the way through and it looks almost as good as new after years of wear, if kept perfectly clean. The cheaper grades of linoleum are easier to clean, but they will not wear so long. Milk is the best thing to use on linoleum to preserve it, as it keeps it soft and pliable, and prevents it cracking, to a certain extent. Wash it clean, then apply the milk, drying afterwards. CASH REGISTERS AND CHECK SYSTEMS. As the nation progresses systems and methods change in every way imaginable. If some of the firms throughout our country employed the same system of handling cash now as they did a quarter of a century ago, what a num- ber of cashiers and accountants they would be compelled to employ! Cash registers of some kind have been used for an indefinite period, but' the latest improvements are more precise and accurate than the old ones; if they were not they would not be improvements. A register of some kind is needed where more than one barber works, if it MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. 73 is nothing more than a check system which consists of different colored or different shaped checks for each bar- ber working-. There is no way for you to tell the amount of cash business a man does without checks, unless you let him make his own change, and this is not a good sys- tem. Few men care to do this, should you give them the privilege. The best way to prevent "hold-outs" or mis- takes is to limit the handling of the funds to one person, and that particular person should be absolutely honest, as well as accurate in every detail. It is just as great a loss to you if your cashiers are absentminded and inaccurate, and are constantly making mistakes, as it would be for them to be exact change-makers and steal from you. In shops where there is a good trade for five or more barbers it pays to have a cashier, or one who sells cigars, handles the funds and keeps the books. Each workman's checks should be colored differently, so as to designate them from the others, and they should be numbered on the back; then he could tell at any time, by glancing at his checks, just how much work he had done. Without numbering them, the workman must count every check in his rack and then deduct the ones taken out. No one will work for you long if they know the cash- ier is holding out their checks and not giving- them credit for all they do. Miscellaneous Fixtures. Hat and coat racks, umbrella stands, clocks, tables and all miscellaneous furnishings should harmonize with other furniture. Every shop should have a nice timepiece hung in the most noticeable place in the shop. Pictures and paintings set off a place if they are the suitable kind, but the in- terior of a shop can easily be spoiled by decorating the walls with cheap advertisements and calendars. A perfect hand mirror is one of the most necessary conveniences that can be added to a workman's kit, and is one wnieb no painstaking haircutter can afford to be without. After cut- ting a head of hair, always show the customer the back of his head, then he will have no cause to complain after leaving the shop. If he does not like the haircut, the only time he could well afford to say anything about it, would be when you asked him if it was all right. BROOMS, BRUSHES AND MOPS, Tools of tidiness, these may be called. The selection Of proper ones is not so easy for the inexperienced buyer, nor are they easily kept in proper shape. Brooms for sweeping sidewalks and dusting off clothes should be made 74 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE of broom-corn, while a hair or bristle brush is the only practical apparatus for linoleum, rubber mats or smooth- surfa< ed floors, A stiff whisk broom will, without e .traor- dinary care, ruin a fine hat and not clean it good either, but with a good bristle brush you may clean them thor- oughly without damaging in the least. Straw brooms should be placed with the handle down, or they should te hung up. Never place a broom on the straw end. When using u. bristle sweeping brush ycu will notice the holes for the bandies on each side of the ) rush; these are to change the handle so that the bristles will not become bent or limp. Changing preserves the bristles. Hair brushes and brooms arc more expensive than straw, but are much more practical for sweeping smooth floors, as they remove all dust and hair, and do not leave streaks of dust; a large room may be swept in half the time with a good bristle broom it would take to sweep it with a Mi.iw broom. A small, short-handled broom should be kept to sweep the corners, and under the immovable fixtures. Use gasoline to clean any kind of a bristle broom. Mop rags should be of a thick, absorbant cloth; flannels or old blankets make good ones. The mop cloth should be cleaned and wrung dry, after using, then hung up loosely to dry; this prevents souring and decay. Cleaning powders are best for mop water, as they dissolve quicker than soap, WINDOW WASHERS, Tlie bristle or hair window washer should be' s qu< ezed as dry as possible before putting away after using/ as neglect to do this will soon cause the bristles to drop out. or sometimes swell and split the wood part of the brush. Dry the rubber cleaner before putting- away. Tak- ing care of the little things helps to make the businers sue- cessful. HOW TO CONDUCT THE BUSINESS, Management. One of the greatest drawbacks to the barter business", after you have become a good workman, is the absolute necessity of closely watching the business, and for this reason it seems that barber shop syndicates are at l^ast a partial failure. As a rule the owners or owner cannot leave it with advantage for a single moment. Take a man- ufacturing business for instance: shoe. gun. implement, candy, or most any kind of manufactory, the head of the concern can go away for a day or a week, and if business keeps up things move on about the same. This is due to the fact that the man who makes the shoes, guns, imple- ment-', candy, etc., must turn out a certain amount of work. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 75 of an exact grade, i n a required amount of time, for the moment he slights his work he is delected by the inspec- tor; besides this, in many manufacturing plants the ma- chinery is everything, the man merely feeding and guiding the machine. 'this is why in ordinary linos of trade the owner can leave the business without running a risk of failure; in the ordinary store, too, the owner can be absent some time without causing bankruptcy, as the service is of a limited kind. For example, you go into a dry goods or grocery More, you (all tor clothing in the dry goods store, for sugar, coffee and the like in the grocery, and the clerk merely supplies you with these goods; the owner is supposed to keep a reliable stock of goods, and in no way can the clerk hurt the business, unless he is personally impolite. This cannot be said about the barber business, for the service given in the shop is of a particularly personal na- ture, and the men working for you can build up your trade, or easily tear down what you have worked hard to estab- Jish, and without being impolite, too. Being perfectly polite will not remove a man's whiskers. Shaving is very personal work, and is somewhat like music. There are many pupils Who play fine pieces of classical music on different instruments, note by note, but the beauties of the piece are only revealed when the master's hand is on the instrument. The pupil will mechanically pound it out, \*hik the really musical mind brings out its beauty and gives it individuality; and so it is with the barber busi- ness, especially the shaving. Regardless of ail that has been said to make fun of the idea, "a high class barber is an artist in every sense of the term." It is true, too. that owing to an increase in wages, shorter hours, and es- pe< ially owing to the fact that the barber business is now being recognized as a practical high-class trade, as the men who are taking it up are improving day by day, and in time it is to be hoped that possibly the proprietor of the barber shop will be rated on a higher commercial basis, and the boss barber will be more of a personal su- pervisor or overseer than he has been in the past, or is at tin- present. To be an optimist is to be hopeful. It has been said that some people are born that way, while others become optimistic because they prosper. To prosper we must thoroughly understand our business, for pessimism has spread her pall over some of the shops, just because they would not estimate for themselves. NECESSARY QT UJITC \TIOXS. To manage a shop properly one should be at least a fair workman, of polished manners, refined in behavior. 76 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE courteous to a degree, and condescending at times. Do not be of a haughty carriage, or of a mean, contemptible, arguing disposition. "Truth and justice are the founda- tions of legitimate trade." There are many new things in the world, but there are no new morals or new truths; we need not try to invent them, for more than likely we would do better if we would remember those we have. It can certainly do no harm to occasionally repeat or call to mind those reflections, which, though old, should forever be paramount: "Let truth and justice reign," for any business not founded on these principles will sooner or later fail. A dishonest or dishonorable business man is seldom, if ever, permanently successful; while the thor- oughly honest man can generally demand all the credit and capital his business requires; he will have the confl- dence of his customers, and his trade will increase as the years go by. "You cannot hold a good man down always." Push is a very necessary qualification in these com- ix liner- times, as this is an era when things are moving with a tremendous energy. Talent, industry and good judgment off .n fail, simply from lack of push; while at times it will make up for great deficiencies. Use good judgment. Most every one complains of their poor memory; out few com- plaints are made of defective judgments, Man's judgment i^ part of his fortune, so you can be energetic and indus- trious enough to waste time, unless this qualification is well applied. Large enterprises should be built on large and liberal plans. Judgment may not create so much en- thusiasm as emotion, but it will stay longer. It is easy for some people to be optimistic when all goes right, but op- timism turns away when they become the least bit disap- pointed or discouraged. So use good judgment; use it in selecting a location, especially if you have two or more places to choose from. If you have the fixtures, or can get them on easy payments, as most of you can by making a determined effort, choose a leading thoroughfare, if in a city; or if in a small town, the principal street. When you can get the location in the business part of the city or town, do not by any means start your business away out of the business district, on account of the little higher rent; bet- ter pay double the rent for a place where you are near ;i large number of business people than be off on a side street. Difference in rent alone, when brought down to an actual day's expenses, will be found to amount to a very little; yet on the other hand, sec the difference in the thoroughfare and the country road, or side street. Possibly from one hundred to one thousand are almost constantly passing and repassing, where your shop is located on the principal street, while on the less prominent one, from one MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 77 to a dozen. Use good judgment before you obligate your- self, in the way of making payments on anything you pur- chase, for here is where everything depends on the most accurate figuring, and this part of the business cannot be treated approximately, because any error in figuring may result in very provoking and expensive mistakes. The business men, or boys, are the ones you will make the most money from. If there is no business about a man or boy, rest assured that there is not much money about him. To secure their patronage you should have a handy location and keep the workmen (good ones, too) ever ready to accommodate your patrons. Good memory is one of the most valuable aids in the business. You should cultivate it. for nothing outside the work you give him will prove to please a new acquaintance more than to call him by name. Ask him how he is, and treat him as an old patron, one whose trade is wanted and appreciated. If you have forgotten his name and are com- pelled to address him in an unacquainted manner, the chances are he will go elsewhere for his next haircut or shave. Of course, there are exceptions; some men do not want to know your name. Why should they? You are only a barber. Never tell these men your name until asked, but try and make their acquaintance to show them your high esteem for them. If you are acquainted with only a small percentage of the people who are regular at- tendants of the shop you are employed in, see how much advantage you have over the new unacquainted barber. To form acquaintances you must be civil to a degree and have a good memory; and to have a good memory you should cultivate and cherish it. Do not lose your temper; if you do, you lose your memory. Politeness and good address are quite necessary. You should be polite naturally. Don't put on; for the man who is really great is willing to leave the discovery to others. Swell shops, tip-top locations, good work and courteousness are the means of producing- good results. A shop where the proprietor and journeyman un- derstand their business, and all possess a kind and polite bearing, will always be popular and command the trade of the better class of people. Be earnest. In this respect there are two distinct types of barbers; one who has an earnest and untiring de- sire to further his own, as well as his employer's interests. The other drags through the day and comes to life just at closing time. This fellow cannot even impersonate ear- nestness, so that the dullest patron of the shop will fail to distinguish him from the real workman. Be polite in little things; no matter how trivial the inquiries made of 78 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE you seem to be, they should be answered in a pleasant manner, and to the best of your ability. Many times cus- tomers will ask questions which are quite annoying and of very little consequence to y.ai. when you do not feel dis- posed to carry on a conversation, but you should show no vexation. Here is where self-control predominates. The first -virtue is to restrain the tongue; as you approach near- est to good when yen ate silent, even if you know you are in the right. lie of Good Address. [f you are of good address and show a" genial and obliging disposition, a great many people will believe you have a fair education, whether you have it or not. Cour- age is indispensible in this as well as in any other business; it is required to keep you living within your means, and to pay your debts; it is required to t< 11 a man you cannot or will not credit him. In one word, if you lack courage, never try t-> run a business; let someone else manage it. Economy is very essential also, it is easier to make money than it is to save it. Keep your credit good by using: it as sparingly ns possible. These and many other qualifi- cations are of importance. How to Make a Shop Pay, You should have al leasl sufficient furniture and fix- tures to assure comfort and convenience for yourself and customers, also plenty of reom. Feme men do not lik<* to he shaved where others are pushing: and crowding so near the barber who holds the keen razor; they become nervous. Be sure to have space enough to prevent press- ing. Make an imposing display of your tonics, soaps, pow- ders and supplies in general, anything you have for sale or use. Keep them in neat, attractive show cases, or ar- range them upon shelves. Enterprising barbers can dis- pose of a large amount of these goods with very little effort, and this enterprise, coupled with civil and honor- nble treatment, will often secure new customers, both for supplies and for work, who will beeome permanent, for people are bound to go where they are well used. Judi- cious advertising is something that will pay you well. Why shouldn't it? FM'd you ever know of a man in busi- ness who advertised as little as barbers? (Read chapters on advertising.) If you are conducting a business for another, then he should see that you have the necessities with which to- carry on the business. Should you run short of things that seem indispensable, do not become irritated ami MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 79 complain to customers; they do not want to hear your troubles. If your employer is of the enter-. rising kind he is sure to equip the shop with the best his circum- stances will allow. A strictly sanitary ship is what you should conduct, whether it be for yourself or for some one else, and to do this you must become a walking sanitary inspector, keep- ing cleanliness forever paramount in your mind. There is no getting around the fact that the barber shop is one of the easiest places to catch disease if it is not operated upon a strictly sanitary system. Consumptives, and other victims of malignant and contagious diseases, enter your shop, and often you work on them unawares. Now this era of progressiveness we live in at present, and are going to live in, demands sanitary regulations. Disinfectants, germicides, antiseptics and sterilizers. Use a germicide in your water used for bathing purposes; have no toilet waters, tonics, face lotions or creams about you that are not thoroughly antiseptic- Keep a sterilizer filled with sterilizing fluid for your tools. Keep these things, whether there is a state law that compels you to or net. Modern tonsorialism demands that you understand the germ theory, as well as the proper use of antiseptics and ger- micides. When you fcrm a habit of using these goods, you enrich your own sjpply of condfience in your business, and that is something which holds many good men back. Lack of self-confidence, some barbers fear as they would a drink of water. To develop this confidence, exercise the mental powers more, for all comes from the mind. The exercise of mind should be no mere occupation of leisure hours, but a sacred and e\er~present duty, because moral error is only intellectual error translated into act, and if we live truthfully and honestly, we must first rid our- selves of ignorance and folly. Do not think yourself too young to accomplish anything reasonable, for you are not; just as soon as you begin to think seriously, you begin to be of more service to your fellow men. Long since youth has ceased to be censured, and history has already heralded some of the greatest achievements of progression, and followed them up with names of young men. "True worth exists wherever man has a heart thai y.arns for goodness," and "one man and honesty makes a majority." The barber, who by years of hard work, anxious thought and self-denial, finally builds up a large and sub- stantial business, will generally hold his own through life, as the qualities and principles that enabled him to build up his business, now fully developed in his manhood, will keep him fully abreast of the liveliest competition, and in- MACK'S BARBERS" GUIDE him against losses through speculation for he con- tinually desires prominence, and as "desire" measures the- world for all of us, it measures for him accordingly. ACCUMULATION. The rainy day must come to all of us. and you must either provide for it or "stay out in the rain." You may think you can dodge it. but you cannot — only by dying young. It is no doubt tetter for a man to die young than to reach that stage in life known as "poverty stricken old but there is no cause for either, as there is plenty <»f everything all around us and all we need to do is to - iti one place, accumulate and become great. Some of the most prominent men of history traveled little, still they were men who studied deeply and their brah s were a thousand times more accurate than the wai rber, who tires of a town, picks up his duds and •hit-; the pike," just as he begins to accumulate. Travel is a good educator, and if one is a close observer, it is one of the best ways to inform one's self on or about anything; but to travel properly one must spend much money, and this you cannot do unless you have a \ to call home; a place where tin- income is more than th - outgo. To move around and change homes, simply t< the sights, is folly, for there is no sight S' - the od bank account. and the perfect ease of - that you stand well with your fellowmen There i< altogether too much moving around in the barber busi- es both among the bosses and journeymen, for the ma- jority to accumulate much. To tit up a modern barber shop nowadays costs about as much as to prepare a young man for a profession. True, tlie compensation has increased eonsiderably, but whether it has increased in like | . is hard to say. The barber of the past was blessed with low rent. cheap labor and ordinary appliances: it did not take much an investment for him to have the best. Patrons in those days were not so particular. The barber used one towel as long as he pleased, and that was as long as the absorbant qualities of the cloth held out. A little diluted lay rum was used to burn them with after shaving, and a block of magnesia to starch them with after burning: sal soda, soap and water produced the shampoo, and in some places sand was used on the floor so the customer could use the whole floor for a spittoon, but now all has' changed and it is apt to change much more in the future. ■You may fool some of the people all the time, and you may fool all of them some times, but you cannot fool all the people all the time." It will not work. The good old MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 81 days, when a man got together a back-breaking, carpet- covered old chair, a couple of razors, a pair of shears, a bottle of bay rum and a looking glass; opened a barber shop and made a living out of it, are gone. We may never see them again; we certainly waste time in waiting for them anyway. To amount to much in the eyes of your friends and to lay aside money you must be making- it. As said before, to fit up a modern shop, it takes a lot of money, but when you are putting money into that shop you are laying it away for the rainy day, i. e., if you in- vest it in modern, serviceable fixtures. What makes the leading surgeon, or the leaders in any other trades or professions prominent? The disag- nosing of disease; the use of modern appliances and a practical knowledge of treating the patients. The same knowledge is necessary to make a leading barber; you must be a genius to hold your own in the fierce race for first honor, which now goes on in the barber business. The shop is a kind of a hodge-podge now; a combination of barber shop, drug store, machine shop, library, somk- ing room and parlor; so tit up your place with everything to make it convenient and modern, or get out of the busi- ness and work for somebody who does- How to Manage Workmen. To handle men in a manner that their labor makes money for you and themselves, is what all would like to be able to do; but few out of the entire population have solved this problem. Some few, however, have learned the system, and where they have, they have been elevated from the ranks of ordinary labor to the counting houses of millionaires. These men usually bear the earmarks of self-condfience, determination, prudence and good judg- ment They have a system, and to work for them you must abide by their system. They are the positive men; they are men of strong characters, who are constantly desiring and continually attracting to them just what they desire. When you come in contact with them in a busi- ness way they seem to exert an influence over you; in other words, their presence seems to permeate the whole atmos- phere. This is just the kind of a character you must be to handle workmen. The reason some proprietors cannot hande men. is not because they pay them poorly; not on account of being liberal with them, but because they have no system or no established rules by which they and their men should work. Most barbers work on a commission, and son: them conceive the idea that they must get all the money in sight, but you must try to show them that this is a n t iken idea. Show them that the one who finds out whal 82 MACKS BARBERS' GLIDE a customer wants done, and just how he wants it done, and gives him that ser\ice, is invariably the one who has the most coming at the end of the week. Some workmen spend their money so fast that they do not realize how ruch they make: some don't stop to think that twenty dollars per week is an average salary of $86.66 2-3 per month the year around, and if you. their employer, do not keep a close account and remind them of the fact, they think they arn working- for only eighty dollars per month. You should keep the most minute account of all ex- penses, and have rules and regulations to govern them with. Th« Don'ts. Rule? and Maxims given in another place will, if lived up to. help you to manage your work- man. Some journeymen, if managed correctly, can make much more money working for you than they could working for rbemselves. for they are good barbers, but poor managers. When a man does not know how to manage a business he Is much better off working for some one who does, for sibilities only set him farther back- When you have a good man working for you. that - _ >od in any particular line, don't be backward about asking him for sugg Remember that even the por- :er has thoug - his thought? may make you dollars. When you conduct a business I for a'l the money there is in it. but when you want recreation lay aside business. If you ;i ; - d barber and have a gfO >el trade, you are lavish in the use of towels, for the- public likes fine, clean linen and plenty of it. Now. if you can give orders not to be snaring with the linen, which costs you some- thing, why can you not be liberal with kind words, which rarely ever ccsts you anything? It is true that kindness is wasted on some workmen, but very few though. The average man will, in course of time, respond to kind words and do more work and better work than he will for a contemptible, arguing, bigoted foreman or manager. Kindness should not stop at the shoo either. If you dish out counterfeit kindness to y.ur employes while in the shop, and then speak of them as below you while among your social acriuaintances. you may as well tell them to their faces, as it is sure to reach them. It may deceive a few for a short time, but ficticious knidness will not pass current long. People will soon learn that it is fakey. So when you speak kind words, speak them from your heart. The best way to have them come from your heart is for you to feel and know that when you pay your men at the ond of the week, that paying th^m alonr- ,io<- s nor MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 83 charge your whole obligation toward them. You owe them appreciation, praiee and respect. Don't be cross and crabbed toward anyone: if they really offend you and it is entirely their fault, speak out, for then you can speak with reason. Don't keep a "sore-head" in the shop: there is always trouble. He makes extra work for the porter and extra expense for you. He is constantly sowing "dissatisfae- tion seed" in your place. Be firm and business-like, but don't be pouty, and don't allow your men to be that way. If you have one that is bad, get rid of him. Don't jump at conclusions and pout, merely because you think you have been offended, for imaginary offence breeds sore-headness. while real offense is often the fore- runner of words and quarrels. Hon to Handle Patrons. Good service and nice shops alone will not build up a large business. If one man loses his turn in your ship. it does not make much difference how good the service is, you will probably loose his custom. In shops where customers are constantly pouring in and cut, the work- man cannot without some system keep track of "who Is next." If a patron goes away from your shop, thinking he has lost his turn, it is almost as bad for you had he lost it. for he may never come back just on that account. Some men are backward about taking their turn, and un- less you let them know that they are next, they may lose it several times. Others are just as much to the opposite extremes, and prefer arguing a man out of his turn to waiting for their own. The business way of handling them is to see that each patron has his respective turn: so in small shops, where there is no waiting checks or registering machines, all the workmen, porter and all, should keep their eyes open. A good habit to form is to size up the waiting patrons and remark to the new comer that there is only three ahead, or five, or whatever the number may be; this will no doubt cause him to count the number waiting, and be ready when his turn comes. "Where the patronage lo Targe there is only one way to prevent trouble, and that is to have waiting checks numbered, and ask each cus- tomer who enters your place to hold his check and wait until his number is called or rung up on a register. Do not let any one outside of the shop hold a place ahead of the ones inside, without their (the waiting cus- tomers) approval, for in time it will cause you no end of trouble. Men will get into the habit of coming to the shop, going out, then coming in again and claiming some one's turn who has been waiting inside. Each workman may. and should, have individual cus- 84 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE tomers and friends of his own, but the fact of his having them does not entitle them to loafing around the shop. A man who comes in the shop, takes a back seat and reads for a short time does not belong to the loafing class, and will not hurt the trade like a genuine lounger; althougn the passerby may glance in and pass you by, thinking he is waiting. Incessant loafing will hurt your business more thai anything, but to give advice on how to stop it is not easily done. If a boy spends his money with you, i.s a good friend and loafs around your shop at intervals, it is a pretty hard matter to tell him to leave; somewhat like the measels, "the kids just have to have them." Suggest to your regular partons that they have their heavy work, such as shampooing and haircutting, done ..t a time when you are not so busy, say most any day but Saturday. Don't:, for Apprentices ami Journeymen. l>ont' be impolite to customers. l>on't be untidy; it pays to be clean. Don't come late to work; it pays to come early. Don't be too familiar with strangers. Don't put a towel on a man before you lay him down. Don't pick up a razor before you tather the customer. Don't lather the ears, eyes, nose and mouth. Don't scrape a man; shave him. Don't begin shaving until you have lathered well. Don't wipe your razor- too much; you loose time. Don't use lather that is too thin; the heard won't out easy. Don't leave soap on a man's face; as you shave, shave it off or wipe it off with your finger. ■ Don't try to cut too wide a swath of beard at one time. Don't shave second time over without first washing soap off. Don't shave the face dry; keep it moist; when dry it smarts and burns- Don't shave against, the grain, or opposite from the way the beard grows. Don't sand stooped over so your breath is in your customer's face; stand erect. Don't strop your razor too much, especially when it is cutting nicely. Don't shave with a razor you know is too rough from over-honing-. Don't bear down on your razor too heavy; do the bearing with the other hand. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 8) Don't grip your razor too tight; hold it lightly, like you would a writing pen. Don't worry if you cut a man; still, don't make light of it. Don't apply creams or lotions until you wash the face clean. Don't powder the face until it is thoroughly dry. Don't blow hair from a man's face or neck with your breath. Don't wet a customer's hair without first asking him if he wants it wet. Don't let a chance slip of applying tonics, trimming the hair, singeing or massaging. Don't try to force anything on the customer. Don't use profane language in the shop and expect to make a "hit" by it, for those who use it do not gen- erally approve of it. Don't forget that it is just as essential in giving a good shave to thoroughly dry the face, as it is to lather it. Don't be content to obey orders only; he who obeys only what he is told to do will find it a long time between promotions. Don't be continually talking about bad luck: the chances are that it is a weakness that holds you back- Don't drink, smoke, or chew tobacco while on duty and expect to please your customers. Don't try to cut hair with dull shears, but if you are compelled to use them, hold the comb in a position so that you push the hair into the shears instead of pull- ing it from them. Don't argue with any one, especially those who have had more experience than yourself. Don't try to show people that you know it "all," even if you think you do. Don't waste your time and money being a good fel- low; put in your spare time studying something and take care of your money. Don't find fault with other people's work; that will not improve your own. Don't be continually moving around, and at the same time complaining because you do not accumulate anything. Don't be continually drawing your wages before they are due. Don't leave the shop without telling the foreman where you are going. Don't be afraid of a strict employer; you will never learn from an easy one. Don't form a habit of putting in unnecessary time on patrons; if you do, you will be low man every day; work fast. H6 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE Doft'ts, Rub s and Maxims for Managers. 1. Don't be away from the shop longer than you can possibly help. 2. Don't use slang: in addressing your patrons or work- men. 3. Don't uSs soiled or frayed linen for economy's sake- 4. Don't begrudge taking a short rest for lunch on a busy day. T>. Ee clear and explicit in your business dealings; 6. Never exchange cheeks with any one. 7. Keep your credit good by using it sparingly and de- creet ly. 8. Have a place for everything, and keep everything in Its place, ii. Be cautious how you go security for anyone. DJ. Don't be totally derelict about shop duties, it causes business to lull. 1 t. Don't be slouchy and untidy in your dress and ex- pect your workmen to keep clean. 1 L' Think before you speak, and say nothing to injur.' others, neither in jest or in earnest. 13. Keep a memorandum book in your pocket to note particulars relative to appointments, addresses and obligations. 14. Associate with men of good qualities, if you esteem your reputation, for it is better to be alone than in bad company. 15. Never give a check to a stranger: it is apt to be tam- pered with and passed, causing trouble. 16. Never draw a (heck for a greater amount than you have to your credit in the bank. 17. Constantly examine your books and see that all of your affairs are attended to promptly. IS. K<.e;> copies of all important letters which you send away, and keep every invoice or letter of im- portance belonging to your business. ly. Learn to say No. with decision; and Yes with caution. "No," when it insists temptation, and "Yes," when it implies a promise. 20. - on't fail to recognize a customer; if you can't wait upon him at once, acknowledge his presence at least- 21. Don't wait upon a customer in an indifferent, half- hearted way; the same as to say, "I'm waiting on you as a particular favor. 1!2. Curtail every possible expense and avoid outside spee- ulatioi s until you have made a success of your own business. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 87 23. Don't discuss your bad luck, as it is most always caused from lack of good judgment or enterprise on your part. 2 4. Don't forget that old patrons are generally more val- uable than new ones; if they leave the shop, there is some reason: discover it if possible and mak- it right. 25. Don't allow your workmen to argue in a boisterous way; they may debate a subject amicably. 2 6. Don't allow you workmen to draw their wages at all times of the week: teach them that they should make one pay day run until the next. 2 7. Never be so conceited that you fancy that you know more about other people's business than they do. 28. Never allow one patron to shave ahead, of or beat another out of his turn. 29. Patronize and help those who patronize and help you 30. Kemember that your obligations to your men do not cease when you pay them off; treat them as you would like to be treated. 31. b'e ambitious and advertise your business. 32. Let horseracing and gambling alone; they are trades all by themselves. 3 3. One of the secrets of success is good health and being perfect master of your business. 3 4. Always be willing to combine with other workmen and bosses to raise prices and shorten hours. Buying Supplies. Buying supplies for the shop now is ciuite different from what is was several years ago, both in what you pur- chase and the quantities you must buy. The interior of a modern shop is very interesting, for there you find hair tonics of all colors and odors; fine toilet waters, pure Witchhazel, quantities of excellext bay ram, antiseptic detergent face lotions, smooth, velvety face creams, mas- sage creams of all kinds, and many others which take the place of the old-time diluted bay rum. Antiseptic borated talcum powder, instead of the block of magnesia, trillian tine in fresh delicate odors, cosmetics in all colors, washing powders for the floor, bath and shaving soaps, polishing paste, sterilizing fluids, good shampoo and sea foam i - brighten up the customers' ideas. These are all nice f »r the patron, some of which he pays for extra, while 'he barber must bear the expense of many without receiving much remuneration; he gets pay for the labor of .shaving a man. while he furnishes face lotions, creams, salves and hrilliantine gratis. When the barber goes to buy all these little things he must use discretion. Buy your goods in ■•is large quantities as possible, and notice low much ymi titt MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE save by purchasing them this way. For instance, one grade of tonic which sells for one dollar per bottle; jf bought by the dozen bottles, you pay eight dollars, cost- ing you 66 2-3c. each. This same tonic can be bough* per gallon, with a 2 per cent discount on six gal- lons, when bought for cash: which is $3.60 per gallon. A gallon contains one hundred and twenty-eight our. divide this by eight, which is the number of ounces con- tained in the one-dollar bottle, and the bottle which cost you one dollar at first now costs you 2 2 l-2e. In buying shampoo, a four-ounce bottle costs you twenty-five cents. A gallon of the material can be bought If you buy it by the gallon four ounces cost you 7 13-16 of a cent. Bath soap, which costs you five cents a cake, can generally be bought for $4.00 per box. of one hundred cakts. Don't those dollars look as good to you as they do to the other man? Then you should arrange a place for your goods and always buy them in large quan- tities. Nothing looks less like business than to have to so one from the shop, on a busy day, to buy and of this or a bottle of that: besides the money you lose by purchasing in such little bits. Eesides the little things, you must have light, heat, literature, water, linen and many other necessitites. ADVERTISING Does advertising pay? How many times have barbers i themselves this question, and how many more times have their poor opoinions and dull, unprogTCSsive intel- lects answered back. N 3 ne say it is money thrown away, and that if you once begin it you will be compelled to keep it up- So you do. money is easily wasted in some rtising; but how are we to know the right and the wrong way without experience? Along these lines it re- quires much study. It takes experience to learn and it takes money to experiment. So if you have never adver- tised, begin at or. - ad your money and learn. Lay aside so much from your earnings each month for adver- - ;.ly constantly how to spend that sum to the best advantage. To give advice in regard to "Judicious advertising*' is not easy, but as there are many lin- - successful advertising in any business, possibly a maxims might be found that would be commonly true in writ - - To study and think of your busines? clearly, and to describe it simply and completely, these are good ones: Clear vision and simple, honest description are the qualifications most necessary in the makeup of a good ad- vertisement writer. Don't be afraid to boost your business. Advertise yourself as "Smith. The Barber." "The Progr^s- and "The Enterprisii - MACK'5 BARBE.R5' GUIDE 89 when you can do it honestly. You may use the first term under any circumstances, the others when you employ only modern methods. Too much effort at humor is not advisable, for if a man needs baths and first-class ton- sorial service he is generally in earnest; he wants good barber work, and not a joke. Be business-like and sincere in your writing, [f you ask a man to spend money with you, try to convince him that he is dealing with a \ tical, competent barber. Extensive and continual advertising is based upon the desire and expectations of establishing permanent business relations with the public. One striving for such a pur- pose should base every statement on a foundation of truth- fulness; therefore the real advertisement must lie i esting, convincing, practical and, above all, truthful. The majority of barbers if called on to write an ad. would, no doubt, present something very old and tiresome, as it re- quires more experience than most of them have had- For economy's salvo you must learn to be brief •concise without being dull and colorless. In writing an advertisement, you spend your money with every word, consequent ly your words must each have a value, or ai least not one of them should be wasted. Every real business man is interested in advert, and every barber, young or old, who hopes for successful business, should be interested in the same question There are many ways foj you to make money by advertising: while without some kind of worthy advertising, you may consider your chances of success slim indeed. Do not think for a moment that the writing of successful adver- tisements is an undertaking interesting to a few people •only; if that were true it would not attract attention in this book. Ads. will accomplish little if they are not based upon truth. The advertiser is short-sighted, a foolish investor and a future failure, if he begins an advertising campaign based on falsehood and exaggeration. Good advertising in connection with good work and courtesy will result in the distribution of haircuts and shaves on a large s< Earnestness is very essential; it impresses where all fails; it will prove prositively where counterfeits will not work. If you are thoroughly in earnest, ideas will be de- veloped; words will come, and good results are sure co follow. It would be almost impossible for a really earnest mnii to write a luke-warm ad. You may write something and say to yourself: "Will any one else believe that?" It may iot seem jusl exae.1 ly < ■ r. 90 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE in earnest, and what you write is true, people will believe . in time they will know it. You should .he enthusiastic; 1 in you MUST be in * arnest. ■ asked: "When is the time to advertise, and when is the time to stop?" Now is the time to begin. "Proscrastination is the thief of time." so begin at one.' and stop when you retire from business — not b fore. Do you i convince the trade with one of your advertisements? There is no reason under the sun why people should go crazy over you, just because read one of your ads- Keep a . : you may be an old concern, but you are new to n< le — absolutely new. To advertise just as other barbers do, is not the proper way. You may imitate a little, but too much of this will not pay, as constant imitation finally leads to suicide. Every age has it predominating thought, an be meritorious our thoughts on advertising should :-• al, for the man with one idea is tiresome. I/ITER VTTJRE. [f the older barbers who read these lines will put on their Clinking caps they will remember that there has a decided change of literature in the barber shops in the past few years. This change, which is for the good, I ■ to a betterment of taste s imewhere, whether the in- novation is i]\w to a literary improvement among the bar- I . i •■■•. or due to the changing pref< r< nces of a more enlight- ened public, is hard to say. However. a few years ago if you wished to pass away your time in reading, while unit- ing your turn in the barber chair, your choice of literature lay between the current issues of the Sunday Sun, Standard. Police Gazette i Nick Carter's, etc., and previous issues of these papers — with few exceptions. Nowadays it is an exception to find a copy of these < xiting periodicals in a lirst-t lass shop. Good local newspapers (dailies) are just about as es- ial to the better cIj ig matter le; they are a kind of h »us photograph of all passing events, consequently you should keep on hand the best daily news, some good magazines and weekly pa- e light, wholesome reading. Buy papers Which are not renowned for the features which made famous the ones mentioned in this arl i Good books are the means of promoting the general intelligence of the public, but the mass of the reading of the American public is not so much in books, but in pa magazines and periodicals. The theory that good reading goes far to make citizenship is advanced by statistics showing that the pro- MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 91 gressive citizens of the land are the more educated clas le. And the effort to obtain and maintain a standard of reading- matter for the shop is a genuine --like and commendable one. This is precisely ture which the advancing- public would like ; that every evolutional barber should strive to support. ii you find better grades of literature in the sh oday than you did a quarter of a century ago. it is aim tive proof that you will find a more enlighb patrons in these si The enterprising barber probably studied then as he studies now, the tastes of his customers in regard to litera- ture, just the same as you would consult their pr in regard to hot towels, close shaves, tonics. • By keeping well read yourself you will have an idea as to what will suit your customers in the reading line. posted. Think and be original; but it' you haven't the power to originate new thoughts, then it is better to w others than to be of an antedeluvian style, and not up to the times at all. Magazines treating on tonsorial arts, circulars and books, or literature of any kind pertaining to the barber business, or just the reading matter which all barbers should have to glance at during their spare mo; ments. If it is only a catalogue from some supply house, if it is a new one, there should be something interesting to the barbers, and if you watch them closely you will see that the progressive ones have a place for these books wl they take care of them. What a pleasure it should be to even think of the large s who are every day scheming and gras for goods and knowledge, by which they may supply the workmen of the country towns, as well as the -cities, and how we should grasp any news, such as may be stored in catalogues and journals, by which our business may be benefited. Often have we seen the negligent workman pick up the new catalogue from some big supply house, glance at it unconcernedly and say most disgustingly: •'Same old thing." when that very book contained news of the most important nature for him. Tt held within its pages knowl- . and the kind of knowledge which he should have to dly carry on his 1 ut in his dull, can way he overlooks the new i< POLITICS. Political air will accumulate in tin- shop every four years regularly, and if you take much interest in it the air will be polluted with politics constantly. Everything is all right in its place; this is just so about politics, but the 92 MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE barber shop is not the place to hold primaries or con- ventions. What will become of the shopowner who sits with his mouth ajar and listens to the political speeches and argu- ments when he is neglecting his business, his shop and his patrons? Success is not an accident nowadays. Wealth is the gray matter under your hat. and every development in your iine is from an idea. Genius is in the solitude, but not in politics; so if you expect to benefit your business and help make a profession out of a trade, devote all of your time to the shop and its advancements. .Most things produced by human ingenuity are undergoing a process of rapid evolution: but politicians are not evolutionizing any barber enterprise, nor are they improving any barbershop paraphernalia to any great ex- tent. If you have friends who are worthy and who need your vote, go quietly to the polls, vote your ticket and keep your mouth shut. UNIONISM. To progress we should co-operate with and help our fellow laborers. We should approach the solution of each question of strife which may arise with a reas mable and, better still, a friendly, spirit. He who obstructs the reason- able adjustment of these questions by appealing to preju- dice may justly be regarded by all as an enemy to our best interests, whether he be journeyman or boss. It is a cut and dried theory that each union has its particular, individual interest, which may be legitimately improved by co-operation between employers and employes; but while standing up for our own rights, we should be .iust as conservative as possible, and not infringe on the rights of any other body Of men. The employee should not expect more of his employer than he justly deserves and if his boss is of the pro- gressive type, he will have justice measured out to him according to his work. The old doctrine so familiar to us all applies well to unionism: "Equal rights to all and sp< eial unjust privileges to none." Besides the unions here mentioned there are various others, some of which are h«>ss barbers' associations and some journeymen: while in places both are united and affiliate with each other. Barbers' unions have been formed throughout the country ever since labor began to organize, but the one which has been of most importance to the workmen was formed December 5, 1887. In the city of Buffalo, New York, five lone delegates met and formed the Journeymen MACK'S BARBERS' GLIDE 93 Barbers' International Union of America — now well known throughout the Unite,! States and Canada. New York i being at that time quite well organized, sent Mr. Pinkelstone as their i me. who w; - first president of the J. B. I. U. of A. iventions were held later at Detroit, Mi F«.it Wayne, Ind., frand Rapids. Mich.. 1891. financial system of the union, which had been condu< in an unbusiness-like way, was changed at this convention, and reconstructed similar to that of cigarmakers at that time. It was also decided to publish an official journal. but lack of funds induced the president to turn the enter- prise over to M. E. Murrey of St. Paul. Minn. From his- torical accounts, the venture seemed to fail and later the union began to publish the Barters' Journal (now known as the "■Journeyman Barber"), with J. C. Mey< Paul. Minn., editor. The next convention was held at St. Louis, Mo., 1892, and the next at Cincinnati. Ohio. 1893. At this convention the due stamp system for paying dues was established; also a suggestion of adopting a sick and death benefit system to i e paid the members by the union. In 18 94 the delei at St. Paul. Minn., and important changes were made, which put the union on a firmer footing than it had ever been before. It was also decided to meet biennially instead of annually, as had been the custom before. The eigth convention was held at Evansville, Ind.. in This was said to be the first one held where the of the delegates were paid by the international- union direct, and it was the first one where they had a 1 alance above all expenditures, after holding a convention. The union being about nine years old at this time and be- ing the first time in its history of having a surplus, it seems as if the members would have felt somewhat discourj - but they were not. This body of workers was destined to grow and attract, as we find them undauted by the yellow fever scare at Memphis. Term., in 1 8 9 S : then at Saginaw. .Mich., in 1901. The eleventh and last convention to date was held at Louisville. Ky.. 1904. It lasted a week and was said to have cost about $75,000. About 500 active dele- gates were present and at this convention it was decided to hold conventions only once every five years, the twelfth convention to be at Milwaukee. Wis., in 1: The union has grown from a mere handful of men in 1SS7 to a strong ana" well established body of about 3 members. Every state and territory in the Union b< represented by about 500 branch unions, and it has al 94 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE $100,U(io in its treasury. It has dune much good for both employer and employe in the way of establishing- shorter working hours and a higher standard of wages, as well as in paying sick and death benefits. W. E. Klapetzky, formerly of Syracuse, X. Y.. was one of the leading members and advisers since the early '90's, or practically ever since the union lias been a union. RECIPES. One of the main factors of making a shop popular is that the quality and character of the toilet requisites shall be right. This refers to powders, hair oils, tonics, creams, etc. Sugestions Regarding the Mixing of Recipes in This Book Do not think Unit because you have tin- recipe to make anything that all you must do is to throw it together. Not some materials have no affinity to others. You can never make oil unite with water, it' you shake up oil and water together, then filter, you would not have much of the oil odor loft in the water; but if you cut the oil with alcohoihy mixing and shaking thoroughly, then add water; tiller, and the odor of the oil remains in the water as it • hrough the filter. To mix ointments, tonics, < tc, you should have the pestle and mortar, a small stove or lami» for heating and plenty of bottles, buckets and a filter with filter paper and fags, also a graduate and a pair of scales. BAY RTJM NO. 1. To one pint of alcohol add one pint of water, one tea- spoonfu'l of borax and one dram of oil of bay laurel. HAY RUM NO. 2. Saturate four ounces of magnesia with oil of bay laurel, then pulverize the magnesia, place in a filter and filter one pint of water through it. Add alcohol until the desired strength is obtained. BAY RTJM NO. 3. Oil of bay laurel 2 drams Jamaica rum 4 ounces Alcohol 2 4 ounces' Water 36 ounces Filter through magnesia. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 95 BAY RUM XO. 1. Oil of bay laurel 2 drams Oil - L5 drops Oil of pimento 15 dr -cl as ounces v> a ' er 25 ounces Mix the oil and alcohol, add the water, set aside in a well-stoppered bottle for a week, then filter. BAY RUM. NO. 5. Oil of bay laurel % dram Acetic ether % dram Oil of pimento 2 5 drops hoi If, ounces Water - 16 ounces ; the oils and ether with the alcohol, add the water and filter. MENTHOL COLD CREAM. Trag-acanth powder 80 grains Menthol 50 grains Glycerin 1 drams Alcohol 5 drams r 15 ounces Mix the tragacanth with the glycerin. Dissolve the menthol in the alcohol. Then mix the gummy and alco- holic liquids by trituration. Color a light pink: then add the water. CAMPHOR TOILET CREAM. Quince seed 60 grains Powdered borax 6 grains Glycerin 2 ounces Spirits of camphor 1 ounce Oil of bitter almonds 10 drops Warm water 14 ounces -rate the seed for several hours in the water. Strain, add the glycerin and in the mixture dissolve the borax. Dissolve the oil in the camphor and gradually add to the mucilage. * WITCHHAZEL COLD CREAM. White petrolatum 6 ounces White wax 1 ounce Spermaceti 1 ounce Distilled extract of witchhazel 2 ounces It the first three together slowly. Allow them to cool to some extent and add the extract. When cool add and stir briskly. \i VA'.^ BARBERS' Gt I1M CAMPHOK ICE. White wax 7 ou eti T ounces Puh 10 ou Mutl 28 ounces Olive oil '2 ounces fin Melt the waa ;her. and mphor in the mixture; thei ughly mixed and pour into the moulds to l cool place it will ■■• COLD CRE \M Quince mucilai AJmo : ic acid . . ■ rin .... fO ou 1 OUl Take one ounce of qui : boil in 24 ounces fifteen minuti and add all other ing This will not become rancid, (dA(i:i;i\ (Kiwi. erin .... Oil of aim white wax lin find perfume, white, and ind the ounce:* . . 1 ounce -- B • unices oil, add the mortar until D \( r\ i ES < i;i \m Gum tragacdnth I ounce ho] ■• 11" ou ,iet daetyl< S . . . 2 ou Menthol I • ik the gUm in the water 4^ hours, shake often: strain through a cloth; dissolve the menthol in the alcohol, then mix all the g ents. If too heavy, add more • MACK'S BARBERS' GU1DI 97 WHITE ROSE TOILET CREAM. Gum of tragacanth L 20 grains Borax L20 grains Glycerin 1 ounce \VaU r , 11 OU1 Tincture of benzoin 2 drams Extract of white rose I Soak the gum in the Water till soft; diss »lve the bora : in the glycerin; mix the rwo solutions; add the tincture and strain through a muslin cloth. Color if desirerl, QUINCE CREAM. Quince Sim-, I .'$ oui Water 55 ounces Glycerin 6 ounces Boracic acid < 80 grains Tincture of benzoin • 12 drar Extract of rose or lilac 2 drams Heal aboul half the Water to boilii g; poui ii ov< r thd seed, add the acid, stir and lei it set for a few hours; pour the liquid off of the Seed and pour about L6 oui more water over them, letting them soak again. Mix and strain the two liquids; add the glycerin, then add the ture, stirring slowly. Add the perfume and the rest, of the water. Color if desired. <.i,y< i:ki\ JELLY. Rose water 1 LI <"' Glycerin ...... (; "" Boracic acid 240 grains Gelatin, from L50 to 250 grai Dissolve the gelatin in half the rcse water bj the aid of a gentle heat; also the acid in the glycerin. Mix, cool a little and add the rest of the rose water. The amount of gelatin varies to suit the thickness of I ie jelly. WHITE VIOLET Toil. 171 JELLY. Glycerin * " ll: ' * Tragacanth powder V* ounce Borax V* " ; Orris rout powder Vz ou Essence of caSsie - dra Essence of jasmine 1 dram Mix the essences wit h I he orris root ; di: in tin- glycerin, and mix with the tragacantl th< essence and orris rool by mixing thoroughly. ■ : i SI XBVRX IiOTl S i I r - . DEI ERSH E rOIl ET \\ ITER s - - riMn r \\ isn - MACK'S BARBERS' Gt IDE PIMPLE WASH NO. '2. Boracic acid Puh eri :ed alum i , water i MU;1 ,-t Heat the water to boiling, add the ai Id, then add alum and shake well, strain and use several times daily. LIQUID SHAMPOO NO, i. While Castile soap powder 1 ounce rum Cologne water Water 24 ou Potassium carbonate 30 grains Borax Dive tiio soap powd< r in the water, heath add the other ingredients ami dissoh e. LIQUID SHAMPOO NO. 2. Tincture of cantharides I drj Ammonium carbonate I Potassium carbonate '- ounce i ay rum s oui Water s ou ncea Dissolve the salts in the water and add the othei gredients. L1QI ll> SHAMPOO NO. :t. Soft or green soap \\ ounces isium ca rbona te Alcohol 3 "ii Water 25 oun Dissolve the carbonate In 1 1 i * - water and add tin of it. LIQUID SHAMPOQ NO. 1. Potassium carbonate l ounce Borax ' nun,-.' Ammonium carbonate 90 Spirits of soap '■• ounce rum A ounces Water 32 oui Mix, dissolve and color any shade «>r perfume anj odor, LIQUID SHAMPOO NO "». BOI ax his Ammonium carbonate 60 grains Glycerin 1 ounce Rum 8 ounces rum 8 OU] Water 12 ounces dissolve and color; the rum gh ood odor. 1 00 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE LIQUID SHAMPOO XO. C. White Castile soap 2 ounces Potassium carbonate V6 ounce Alcohol 8 ounces Tincture of quillaja 2 ounces Water Us ounces oil of lavender 20 drops Dissolve the soap and the potassium in the water and add the others. LIQUID OH TOXIC SHAMPOO NO. ". Tincture of quillaja 10 ounce?" water 4 ounces Glycerin 3 ounces ge flower water 15 ounces Fluid extract of pilocarpus 4 drams Quinine sulphate 30 grains Dissolve the quinine in the cologne water and tincture of quillaja by heating slowly, then add the remaining in- gredients. Color and filter if you wish it to be clear and look nice. Numbers 1. 2, 4 and ." can be made thicker by adding from one-half to two ounces of cocoanut oil soap, in shavings, and it may he clarified by filtering. LIQUID SHAMPOO No. 8. Aqua ammonia 1 ounce Cocoanut soap 1 ounce Borax 1 ounce Med water 32 ounces Shave the soap very fine, and mix all together; color any color and perfume any odor desired. Ihis shampoo works without water, and is the cheapest made. SHAMPOO PASTE <>K JELLIES NO. 1. White Castile soap 4 ounces Curd soap 2 ounces Potassium carbonate 1 ounce Honey 1 ounce Heat the mixture slowly with enough Water to make a past-.-. SHAMPOO PASTE OR JELLY NO. 2. White eastile soap 2 ounc< s Ammonia water 2 OUl erin 1 ounce rum or cologne water, either 1 ounce Dissolve the soap in the water by heating, when nearly eold stir in i he nth< r ingr< di< nts. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 101 SHAMPOO PASTE OR JEIiLY XO. 3. White Castile soap 4 < nances Potassium carbonate 1 oui Glycerin 2 ou Water 6 ounces Oil of lavender 4 drops Oil of bergamot 10 dr Shave the soap and add to it the water then the car- bonate. Heat slowly until softened then add the glycerin and oils. If too thick add water. SHAMPOO POWDERS NO. 1. Cochineal powders 40 grains Camphor 8 grains Borax 3 ounces Oil of rosemary 25 drops Mix. one ounce is sufficient for one pint of water. SHAMPOO POWDERS XO. 2. Pulverized borax 1 ounce Sodium carbonate, powdered 1 ounce Oil of rosemary l r » drops Camphor powder 2 grains Mix; this works well in one quart of water. SHAMPOO POWDERS XO. 3. Pulverized borax 3 ounces Quillaja powder 3 ounces Sodium carbonate, powdered 6 ounces Oil of cloves 10 drops This is a strong powder and a little of it will do lots of work. HAIR POMADE XO. 1. Yellow wax 2 ounces Castor oil 6 ounces Oilve oil 4 ounces t almond oil 1 ounce Benzoated lard 3 ounces .Melt the wax slowly, add the oils and lard; stir uncil cool and perfume to suit. HAIR POMADE XO. 2. ■ a butter 4 ounces Benzoated lard 12 ouncss Tincture of benzoin 1 dram Oil of bergamot 1 dram Heat the first two slowly, stir and add the perfume as It cools. 102 MACK'S BARBERS* GUIDE HAIR POMADE NO. 3. White wax 3 ounces r oil • 5 ounces oil - ounces Oil of rose 1° drops Heal slowly, stir until mixed; drop the oil In just as it cools. HAIR POM ARK NO. I. Castor Oil 1 t; om eti 3 ounces r bergamot 3 drams Oil of verbena Ms ounce Oil of lavender V2 ounce Oil of rosemary Vz ounce ..id 10 grain 5 Melt thf spermaceti, add the castor oil, then the other Allow the whole to cool undisturbed, and It will be clear. This preparation will k< ep. NOTICE. — In mixing the ingedients of pomades, melt s first, then add the lard, petrolatum or fats, ami allow them to marly cool before adding the perfume. SEA FOAM NO. 1. Aqua ia 1 ounce hoi 16 oui Tim andtharides 4 drams Wat< r 16 ounces Potassium carbonate x 'i ounce urn 4 drams Mix and dissolve. SEA FOAM NO. 2. Ammonium carbonate 120 grains Alcohol 2 ounces . rin 1 ounce Rose water 15 ounes Mix and dissolve. SEA FOAM NO. 3. Alc< >hol 8 on Water 8 ounces a ammonia 3 drams Tincture of arnica 1 dram Tincture of cantharides - drams Mix and dissolve. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 103 SEA FOAM NO. 1. Fluid extract of quillaja 4 oui Glycerin 2 on Cologne water 4 ou Alcohol 8 on Rose water 8 our Mix and dissolve. CAMPHOR WATER. Gum camphor 1 oui Water 2 4 ounces Magnesia U ou Alcohol • 1 dram Rub the gum in the alcohol until it is fine; work up with the magnesia; add the water; stir and filter. COCOANUT HAIR OIL. Cocoanut oil ■ ■ • • 4 ounces Castor oil 3 ou Alcohol 7 ou Oil of lavender 6 dr Oil of bergamot 30 dr Oil of rose geranium 10 drops Melt the cocoanut oil and add it to the castor oil, which is first dissolved in the alcohol; shake well to them thoroughly, then add the other oils. TOILET COLOGNE. Oil of bergamot 1 ounce Oil of lemon 3 drains Oil of lavender 3 drams Oil of oranges Oil of cloves 1 dram Oil of neroli 30 dro Oil of cinnamon 30 drops water 12 ou Alcohol '. 96 ou Mix all the oils in the alcohol. Add the rose water and ill!- r. This makes over 3 quarts of fine colog FLORIDA WATER NO. 1. Oil of garden lavender. : 2 ou Oil of bergamot 6 uv Essence of ambergris Alcohol , 64 ou Mix and filter. 104 MACK'S BARBER'S GUIDE FLORIDA WATER NO. 2. Oil of lavender 1 ounce Oil of lemon 4 drams Oil of orange 4 drams < >il of cloves 2 drams Alcohol 60 ounces Mix and filter. FLORIDA WATER NO. :\ (Very Fine.) ( Ml of lavender 1 ounce ( >11 of bergamot 4 drams < >il of doves 2 drams i >il of rose 20 drops Benzoic acid 30 grains Alcohol 60 ounces .Mix and filter. LAVENDER WATER. Oil «d' lavender ' 4 drams Alcohol 24 ounces Rose water 3 ounces Magnesia, carbonated V2 ounce Triturate the oil with the magnesia, add the alcohol and shake, then add the water, color brown with caramel if desired, and filter. TOOTH POWDER NO. 1. Prepared chalk 30 ounces ( oris root 2 ounces Tincture of vanilla 1 dram Oil of peppermint 1 dram Oil of rose geranium 10 drops TOOTH POWDER NO. 2. ( trris root 1 ounce Prepared chalk 6 ounces Castile soap powder y 2 ounce Sugar, powdered V2 ounce ( Ml id' wintergreen V2 dram Mix all the ingredients then add oil. TOOTH WASH NO. 1. Water 2 4 ounces Borax ' 1 ounce Spirits of camphor 1 dram Tincture of myrrh 1 dram Heat the water to boiling. Dissolve the borax first. then add the others. Color and filter or strain. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 105 TOOTH WASH NO. 2. Powdered myrrh Vi ounce Powdered borax *4 ounce Powdered red saunders M ounce Powdered sugar 14 ounce Cologne water 3 ounces Alcohol 4 ounces Water 9 ounces Mix, let set for several days, shaking often; filter and bottle. TOOTH WASH NO. 3. White Castile soap 2 ounces Water 8 ounces Alcohol 8 ounces Oil of orange, red 15 drops Oil of cinnamon 10 drops Dissolve thp oils in the alcohol, mix all and filter. TOOTH PASTE NO. 1, Precipitated chalk 8 ounces Castile soap powder 2 ounces Oil of cloves 20 drops Oil of nutmeg 2 drops Oil of rose 10 drops Form into a paste with a mixture of half glycerin and half water. TOOTH PASTE NO. 2. Powdered cloves 3 ounces Powdered cinnamon 3 ounces Powdered orris root 5 ounces Precipitated chalk 10 ounces Pumice powder 5 ounces Oil of cloves 2 drams Color pink with a solution of rartninp and mix with honpy sufficient to form a paste. TOOTH PASTE NO. 3. Cream of Tartar 10 ouhces Sugar of milk 10 ounces Carmine 80 grains Essence of peppermint 1 dram Mix and make into a paste with pxartly three pari* honey and one part glycerin, weighed. 106 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE DEPILATORIES NO. 1. To remove superfluous hair — Sulphurated baryto 120 grains Zinc oxide " 6 grains Starch 6 grains Convert this into a smooth paste with water and apply to the hairy skin in a thin layer after drying for about ten minutes; scrape it off and the hair comes with it. Wash the skin and apply some blanb oil. NO. 2. Barium sulphide 1 ounce Powdered magnesia 1 ounce Corn starch 1 ounce Use the same as No. 1. NO. 3. Strontium sulphide 300 grains Zinc oxide 100 grains Starch 100 grains Menthol 5 grains This should be in a very fine powdered form and used in a paste the same as No. 1 and No. 2. This sulphide has the advantage over barium sulphide in two ways. It is non-poisonous and does not evolve hy- drogen sulphide. BRILUI ANTINE NO. 1. Honey 4 ounces Glycerin 2 ounces Cologne water 2 ounces Alcohol 8 ounces Extract of Jockey club 6 drams BRILLI ANTINE NO. 2. Castor oil 3 ounces Glycerin 1 ounce Alcohol 10 ounces Oil of cloves 10 drops Oil of bergamot 2 drops Mix. QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 1. Quinine sulphate 20 grains Bay rum 4 drams Glycerin 4 drams Tincture of candtharides 2 drams Tincture of capsicum 2 drams Water 15 ounces Mix, dissolve, color and filter. MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 2. Rum 3 Glycerin 3 Alcohol 4 Rose water 21 Cologne water 3 Quinine sulphate 15 Mix, color and filter. 107 ounces ounces ounces ounces drams grains QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 3. Quinine sulphate 2 grains Tincture of candtharides 2 drams Fluid extract of jaborandi 2 drams Alcohol 2 ounces Glycerin 2 ounces Bay rum 6 ounces Rose water 14 ounces Dissolve the quinine in the alcohol and bay rum, by warming just a little, add the other ingredients, color and filter. This makes a good shop tonic, and it can be made with twice as much water, and still do good work. QUININE HAIR TONIC NO. 4. Diluted sulphuric acid 15 drops Quinine sulphate 90 grains Alcohol 2 ounces Glycerin V2 ounce Rose water 14 ounces Titurate the quinine with the acid, gradually adding the water. .Add the remaining ingredients and filter. FALLING HAIR. The hair falls out at intervals on everybody's head, it doesn't make any difference how much care is taken of it, but if the scalp is in a healthy condition new hair is con- stantly coming in. Some people's scalp becomes hio"^ bound, the roots of the hair become diseased and if pro^ care is not taken of it they lose it. Most of the recir> falling hair are given for two specific purposes: disinfect the scalp and the other is to increase '' tion in the scalp; so if you keep your scalp r and massage it regularly you are just abo 1 you would be to be constantly applying 1< without massaging it. 108 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE rou F\1.I.1N(, II ai i:. \o. i. rum 4 ounces* Sweet oil 4 ou tore of cantharides 20 drops Wash the head once b week, dry thoroughly and apply this lotion daily FOB FAI.FINO H lift, NO. t. Aqua ammonia 1 ounce Olive oil L 1 ounce* The ammonia causes a smarting sensation and Stimu- S the circulation. " :s it from injuring th- This preparation will become rancid although it is \\ hen fresh. FALLING HAlR NO. 1. closely and applj salt water with a little bora* Kdded FALLING HAIR NO 2 e hair and rub th< s aih with the t , Falling hair no 3 Uric chloride ■ r :• ou . . 2 ou - \ .-ther day MIM 11 I WlVl S Kl ( ll»KS ro i;k\io\ r nvr fkom nil sKr\. - the heads of parlor match* s, soaked applied to the parts si stain Is* remoA Ihe burnt h« . KlMd\l RINGWORM OB TO CI KF BARBER'S in H OB IMPETIGO. SO. l. r ... . ■• \-' '■■■ MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE 109 TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OK IMPETIGO. Tanic acid 90 grains Lac. sulphur 180 grains Zinc oxide 1 ounce Starch 1 ounce Perolatum 2 ounces TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OR IMPETIGO. Tanic acid 15 grains Precipitated sulphur 30 grains Petrolatum 300 grains TO CURE BARBER'S ITCH OR IMPETIGO. (Zinc Ointment.) Benzoated lard 1 ounce Zinc cxide V2 onuce Tincture of benzoin V 2 dram ASTRINGENTS TO STOP BLEEDING. Ferric sub-sulphate of iron, known as Monsel's Step- tic Powders. Also zinc sulphate. A GODD LIQUID (LEANER. Carbonate of potash 4 ounces Coacoanut soap 2 ounces Water 1 gallon TO (LEAN BOTTLES. I'se small shot, soda and warm water 1 , TO POLISH BOTTLES. Cut up potatoes tine and put them in tbe bottle with Bait and water. Shake rapidly and rinse. TO CLEAN AND POLISH BOTTLES. Shot with warm water and prepared chalk, this cleans and polishes, but where the glass in the bottle is thin shot will sometimes crack it. To polish SILVERWARE. Use water and prepared chalk. Rub well with a soft leather or chamois. Never use soap to polish silverware with. 110 MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE TO CLEAN MARBLE. Soda 2 ounces Powdered pumice stone 1 ounce Prepared chalk 1 ounce Mix these with water and rub well all the stained parts, wash with scap and water, then dry with a dry cloth. TO REMOVE SPO'iS PROM FINISHED GOODS. Saturate the spots thoroughly with benzine, then place two pieces of very soft blotting paper— one under and one over tin- soot. Press well with a warm iron and the blot- ting paper will ahsorb the grease. TO REMOVE WARTS. Touch daily with nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) or 'with nitric acid, and sometimes aromatic vinegar will remove them. The lunar caustic produces a black and the acid a yellow stain, while the vinegar scarcely discolors at all, still it is not always so i ls either of the others. FIFTY QUESTIONS. ANY OF WHICH A FIRST-CLASS BARBER OUGHT TO ANSWER CORRECTLY. THE HAIR. What causes grayness? Explain the singeing theory? Describe the growth of a hair. How does it derive its lif< What is meant by the follicle? How does the hair receive its oil? What is the cause of dead hair'.' Does the hair grow after death? What causes hair to curl naturally? How do good tonics affect the hair? Give two reasons for hair falling out? Why will hair not grow from a scar? Why do_es.it become dry and brittle"? " What are the principal constituents of hair° What treatment is necessary to prevent dead hair? What causes the peculiar ordor in burnnng hair? What causes the sleek, shiny appearance of scars? What effect does continuous cutting have on the hair? How do animals cause the hair on their bodies to gtand up? What treatment do you recommend for curly beards, which turn and grow into the skin? MACK'S BARBERS' GUIDE. I 1 1 THE SKIN. Name three astringents. What is the complexion? Describe the growth of the skin. How would you check bleeding? What is meant by the papilla? What effect does facial massage have ? What effect does close shaving have on the skin? What nationality of people have no coloring pigment in their skin? For a chapped, sensitive skin, would you recommend an alcoholic or an oily preparation? THE SCALP. What is dandruff? Is it transmissable? What causes an extremely oily scalp? What causes extreme dryness of the scalp? Do perfectly healthy heads have dandruff? What effect does massage have on the scalp DISEASES AND ANTISEPTICS. What is acne? What is eczema? Name three other skin diseases. Name three good antiseptics. Why are they used? What is barber's itch? Is it contagious? If so, how? Where does it generally affect one? Which is usually best, a liquid or a paste preparation to eradicate it? How would you cleanse a shaving cup? Name a good way of sterilizing tweezers? How would you clean brushes, combs, etc.? What precaution would you take in shaving one af- fected with any disease? THE TRADE. What is the barber's trade? How do you tell when a razor is sharp? What is the barber's pole emblematic of? What makes a good filling for razor strops? What is most essential in learning the trade? 112 MACK'S BARBE 014 481 097 1 What other trade or profe*. with the barber's trade? How were the two separated? Why were laws made to regulate the practice of bar- be ring? What class of barbers first attempted to have laws made? If a razor is honed properly does it require heavy or light stropping? Give suggestions on lathering, shaving, beard trim- ming and hair cutting. Note.— Answers to the foregoing questions may be secured from the author J. M. McCamant, Ogden. Utah, or from the revised edition of Mack's Barbers' Guide, which will be published in the near future. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS iff 014 481