^ v\ \V >• '% 'J- ROBERT BARNWELL ROOSEVELT. THE GAME FISH, Northern States and British Provinces. ACCOUNT OF THE SALMON AND SEA-TROUT FISHING OF CANADA AND NEW BRUNSWICK, TOGETHER WITH SIMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR TYING ARTIFICIAL FLIES, ETC., ETC. By ROBERT BARNWELL ROOSEVELT, AUTHOK OF "SUPERIOR FISHING," "THE GAME BIRDS OF THE NORTH," "FIVE ACRES TOO MUCH," "POLYANTHUS," ETC., ETC. ILLUSTRATED. G 0PYRiGHT. °#
sory
examination, were —
Br. 12 ; D. 13 ; P..11 ; V. 8 ; A. 11 ; C. 19f .
This fish was said to have been taken in Maine, and
differed entirely from the ordinary brook and lake trout.
The fin-rays of the brook trout, as scientifically given
by De Kay, are —
D. 13*0 ; P. 12 ; Y. 8 ; A. 10 ; C. 19$.
Trout are in season from the first of February to the
first of September in the Long Island streams ; from April
to September in those streams of the ISTew England States
that communicate with salt water ; and from May till
September in the upland waters of the middle and east-
ern States.* There is but one mode of taking them —
namely, with the fly ; although it is said poachers and
pot hunters capture them with worms, minnows, nets,
and even with their own roe. These villanies are not
at present punished with death nor even imprisonment
* These periods do not refer to the game laws.
14 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
for life ; but our legislature is looking into the matter,
and there is no telling how soon such statutes may be
passed.
How splendid is the sport, to deftly throw the long
line and small fly with the pliant single-handed rod, and
with eye and nerve on the strain, to watch the loveliest
darling of the wave, the spotted naiad, dart from her
mossy bed, leap high into the air, carrying the strange
deception in her mouth, and turning in her flight, plunge
back to her crystal home, with the cruel hook driven into
her lips by a skillful turn of the angler's wrist ; to meet
and foil her in her fierce and cunning efforts to escape,
paying out the line as she rushes away resistless, meeting
her in emergencies firmly and steadily, till the tip crosses
the but, when she insists upon reaching the old stump
or the weedy bottom ; to slack the line when she leaps
into air, trying to strike it with her tail ; and above all,
to watch the right moment, and keeping her head well
up, to bring the beautiful prize quickly and steadily to
the net ! There may be others who have killed more and
larger trout than myself, there may be others who can
cast a longer line and lighter fly ; but there are none who
will work more steadily or who can enjoy it more
intensely.
There are innumerable rules applicable to trout fishing
and innumerable exceptions to each; neither man nor
fish is infallible. A change of weather is always desir-
able : if it has been clear, a rainy day is favorable ; if
cold, a warm one ; if the w T ind has been north, a south-
erly one is advantageous ; a zephyr if it has been blowing
a tornado. Generally, in early spring, amid the fading
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 15
snows and blasts of winter, a warm day is very desirable ;
later, and in the heats of summer, a cold, windy day will
insure success. Dead calm is dangerous, although many
trout are taken in water as still, clear and transparent
as the heavens above. The first rule is never to give
up ; there is hardly a day but at some hour, if there be
trout, they will rise, and steady, patient industry disci-
plines the mind and invigorates the muscles. A south-
erly, especially a southeasterly wind, has a singular
tendency to darken the surface, and in clear, fine waters
is particularly advantageous ; a southwester comes next in
order ; a northeaster, in which, by the by, occasionally
there is great success, is the next ; and a northwester is
the w r orst and clearest of all. Give me wind on any
terms, a southerly wind if I can have it ; but give me
wind. It is not known what quality of the wind darkens
the water, it may be a haziness produced in the atmos-
phere, although with a cloudy sky the w^ater is often too
transparent; it may be the peculiar character of the
waves, short and broken, as contradistinguished from
long and rolling ; but the fact is entitled to reliance.
Slight changes will often affect the fish. On one day
in June, in the writer's experience, after having no luck
till eleven o'clock, the trout suddenly commenced rising,
and kept on without cessation, scarcely giving time to
cast, till two, when they as suddenly stopped. There was
no observable change in the weather, except the advent
of a slight haze, the wind remaining precisely the same.
I was much disappointed, not having half fished the
ground and being prevented, by the numbers that were
taken, from casting over some of the largest fish that
16 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
broke. As it was, I caught seventy trout in what is
ordinarily considered the worst hours of the day. But
in this particular, also, the same rules apply as to the
warmth of the weather. In early spring it is useless to
be up with the lark, even supposing such a bird exists ;
no fish will break the water till the sun has warmed the
air ; but in summer, the dawn should blush to find the
sportsman napping. In fact, trout will not rise well
unless the air is warmer than the water. They do not
like to risk taking cold by exposing themselves to a
sudden draught.
There is a very absurd impression, that trout will not
take the fly early in the season ; this is entirely unfound-
ed. As soon as the ice disappears they will be found
gambolling in the salt water streams, and leaping readily
at the fly. At such times, on lucky days, immense
numbers are taken. In March they have run up the
sluiceways and are in the lower ponds, lying sullenly in
the deepest water ; then is the cow-dung, politely called
the dark cinnamon, the most attractive fly. In April,
May and June they are scattered, and entrapped by the
hackles, professor, ibis, and all the medium sized flies.
In July and August they have sought the headwaters of
navigation, the cool spring brooks, and hide around the
weeds and water-cresses, whence the midges alone can
tempt them.
Any flies will catch fish, cast in any manner, if the
fish are plenty and in humor to be caught. A few fea-
thers torn from the nearest and least suspicious chicken,
and tied on an ordinary hook with a piece of thread,
will constitute a fly in the imagination of a trout, pro
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 17
vided he follows, as lie sometimes appears to di), the
advice of the young folks, shuts his eyes and opens his
month. I cannot recommend such tackle, being con-
vinced the most skillfully made is the best ; but I do
advise simplicity of color. One of the best of all flies
is the female cow-dung, made of a dark cinnamon color,
and after the pattern used in England ; there is a green-
ish abomination unj ustly foisted upon American inven-
tion that is worthless. The hackles are in my opinion
altogether inferior, except the black-winged hackle,
which, of a bright warm day, is irresistible. The ibis
and professor, dressed a V Americaine, with yellow floss
body and red tail, are both excellent flies. The coach-
man is the best evening fly, and will attract trout long
after the angler can see to strike them, and when the
sound of their plunge alone entices him to continue his
efforts. The May and stone flies are good, and of late years
a fly of mixed red and black, with wings, called by some,
from his colors, the devil-fly, has come into vogue. The
palmers are only to be despised and avoided. In sum-
mer, of the midges the yellow sally, the alder fly, the
little cinnamon, the black gnat, the black and red ants,
and in fact all others, are attractive. The water is then
covered with myriads of many-colored flies, and there is
hardly any artificial but will find its representative among
the real life.
These are but a few of the flies that can be pur-
chased in the shops, which yearly invent new varie-
ies, regardless of truth to nature or the recommend-
ations of experience. Many have no names whatever,
*nd in others the workman has given his fancy such play
X8 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
that they are unrecognizable. In these pages, when the
name is given of any fly described in Ronald's u Fly-
Fisher's Entomology," it is intended that it shall be
dressed after the directions therein contained. A more
full description of the various flies, both in use and to be
found in our waters, will be given hereafter with some
directions for tying them ; but a great deal must be left
to the practical experience of each fisherman, according
to the range of waters he is in the habit of fishing.
Good luck, that synonym for all the virtues, does not
depend so much upon the kind of flies as the skill in
casting, and a poor fly lightly cast into the right spot
will do better execution than the best fly roughly cast
into the wrong place. The lure must be put where the
fish habit, often before their very noses, or they will not
take it ; and when they lie, as they generally do in run-
ning streams, in the deep holes under the banks, where
the bushes are closest and cause the densest shade, it
requires some skill to cast properly into the exact spot.
Sacrifice everything to lightness in casting ; let the line
go straight without a kink if you can, drop the fly into
the right ripple if possible, but it must drop gently on
the surface of the water. An ugly splash of a clear day
in pure water, and the prey will dart in every direction,
and the angler's hopes scatter with them.
A beginner may practise a certain formula, such as
lifting the line with a waive and a smart spring, swinging
it backward in a half circle, and when it is directly
behind him, casting straight forward ; but as soon as he
has overcome the rudimentary principles, he should cast
in every manner, making the tip of his rod cut full cir-
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 19
cles, figure eights, and all other figures, behind him,
according to the wind ; bearing in mind, however, ever
to make his fly drop as gently as a feather. He should
use his wrist mainly, and practise with each hand, and
should never be otherwise than ashamed of a bungling
cast, though he be alone, and none but the fish there to
despise him. If the line falls the first time with a heart-
rending splash all in a tangle, it is useless to make the
next cast properly. The fish have found out the trick, and
know too much to risk their necks in any such a noose.
A skillful fisherman can cast almost any length of line,
but practically, fifty feet, counting from the reel, is all
that can be used to advantage. Some English books say
only the leader (gut links) should alight in the water ; but
this is nonsense, for at least one half the line must fall
into the water, unless the fisherman stand on a high
bank. With a long line the difficulties of striking and
landing the fish are greatly increased ; in striking, there
is much slack line to be taken up ; in landing, it requires
some time to get the fish under control, and he is apt to
reach the weeds or a stump.
That most excellent fisherman and learned scholar, Dr.
Bethune, in his edition of Walton, Part II., page 73,
says that candid anglers must confess that nine out of ten
trout hook themselves ; this may be so in streams teeming
with fish, where a dozen start at once, frantically striving
to be the first ; but in clear, well-fished streams, not one
fish in a thousand will hook himself; and on Long Island
an angler would grow grey ere he filled his basket if he
did not strike, and that quickly. Striking, to my mind,
is by far the most important point, and hundreds of fish
20 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
have I seen escape for want of quickness. It must bo
done quickly but steadily, and not with a jerk, as the
latter is apt, by the double action of the rod, to bend the
tip forward and loosen instead of tightening the line.
There are days when fish cannot be struck, although they
are rising freely ; whether they are playing or over-cau-
tious, I never could determine ; whether they are not
hungry or the water is too clear, they put man's capacities
at defiance. Their appearance must be signalled to the
eye, by that reported to the brain, which then directs the
nerves to command the muscles to move the wrist ; and
ere this complicated performance is completed, the fish
has blown from his mouth the feathery deception and
has darted back to his haunts of safety. A fish will
occasionally leap up, seize the fly, discover the cheat, and
shaking his head, jump several feet along the surface of
the water to rid his mouth of it, and do this so quickly
as not to give a quick angler time to strike. How often
fish are caught when they rise the second time, as then
the angler is more on the alert, whereas on the first rise
he was off his guard ! How often fish rise when the
angler's head is turned away from his line, or when he is
busy at something else, and how rarely are they caught !
In my experience it is so great a rarity, that it might
almost be said they never hook themselves. In the lan-
guage of youth, the only hooking they do is to hook off.
Dr. Bethune, page 97. says the rod should not exceed
one pound in weight. Indeed it should not, and if it does,
it exemplifies the old maxim, so far as to ha\e a fool at
one end. If we could fish by steam, a rod exceeding a
pound and measuring over fourteen feet might answei
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 21
well, but in these benighted days, while wrists are made
of bone, muscles, cartilages and the like, the lighter the
better. A rod, and if perfection is absolutely indispens-
able, a cedar rod of eleven or twelve feet, weighing nine
or ten ounces, will catch trout. Cedar rods can only be
obtained in America, and then only on compulsion, but
this wood makes the most elastic rods in the world. They
spring instantly to every motion of the hand, and never
warp. They are delicate ; the wood is, like woman, cross-
grained, but invaluable if carefully treated. The reel
should be a simple click, never a multiplier, but large
barrelled, and fastened to the but with a leather strap.
The line, silk covered with a preparation of oil, tapered
if possible at each end, and thirty to forty yards long.
The basket, positive, a fish-basket ; the angler, compara-
tive, a fisher-man.
Thus equipped, go forth mildly approving where the
writer's opinions coincide with yours, simply incredulous
where they do not. Ere you begin, however, you may
w T ish to know the size of the fish you can catch, a matter
of no little intricacy, for though w r e all know the size of
the fish we have ourselves caught, there is always some
one else that has caught larger. My largest trout, at
the time this is written, was taken on the Marshpee
River, on Cape Cod, and weighed three pounds and
fourteen ounces. But it is said there were inland
brook trout exhibited at the New York Club by a mem-
ber in the year 1857, the two largest of which weighed
cleaned six pounds and a half each. "I have my
doubts." These fish should have weighed, when first
taken, nearly eight pounds, double the size of any trout,
22 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
other than sea trout, I have ever seen or before that
heard of. In my opinion, they were lake tront, caught,
perhaps, from a small pond, and bright colored. It was
claimed they were taken with the fly, which lake trout
will not ordinarily touch ; but, unfortunately, it was
also said, that two weighing about five pounds each
were caught and landed on one cast, and that this was
done twice. Now confidence in our neighbors' truth
is the framework of society, but there is a limit to
human credulity, and catching two five pound trout at
one cast, is at the very verge of that limit. No one,
except by the most incredible good fortune, could kill
two such fish on any ordinary fly-tackle, with any ordi-
nary fly-rod. The hooks would almost certainly tear
out, and no strain could possibly be kept on the lower
fish, which, by slacking up his line and then darting
away, would probably go free. But great luck alone
could enable a person to land two such fish ; the lower
one would never drown, being at perfect liberty — by the
by, trout never die in the water, they always save
enough life for one final rush — and when the upper fish
was landed or gaffed, the lower would go off in a jiffy.
When a person claims to do this twice in a day, he must
De pronounced a lucky man indeed.
We caught our big trout in the Marshpee, and we
will tell you how we did it, though the words make us
blush as we write them. "We were young then, and it
is to be hoped innocent ; and having gone to Sandwich,
on Cape Cod, in search of untried fields, discovered a
jolly, corpulent landlord, named Teasedale, who, with
his friend, Johnny Trout, so named jocosely, wer^ the
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 23
fishermen of the neighborhood. That was before the
stream was preserved for the benefit of the " Poor
Indian," and poorer fishermen mulcted, as at present, in
five dollars a day for the privilege of fishing. We drove
to the stream, almost six miles, Teasedale enlivening the
early June morning with snatches of hunting songs, and
when there plunged recklessly in. Oh ! but the water
was cold — a dozen large springs poured in their freezing
contents — and the blood fairly crept back to our hearts.
The stream ran through a narrow defile, overhung with
the thickly tangled vine and creepers, rendering a cast
of the line impossible, and had worked its way far under
the steep banks, making dark watery caverns, where the
great fish could lie in wait for their prey. We removed
the upper joint of our fly-rod, which was heavy and
strong, and leaving the line through the last ring of the
second joint, we put on a bait next to the fly in beauty
and effect, the minnow. The water was freezing cold —
the closely entwined boughs and leaves shut out the heav-
ens above, and we were alone in the shadowy darkness
with the tenants of the deep. The herring frequented
the brook, and pursued by the large trout, darted in
shoals between our feet. It is always a good sign when
the herring are running, and we had excellent luck.
There are several ways of putting on a minnow, and
if a person from ignorance or necessity must poach, let
him poach well. There is the gorge-hook loaded with
lead, the. snell passed by the baiting needle at the mouth
of the bait and out at the tail, bringing the hooks which
are double at the mouth. It is highly recommended by
some English books and their American imitators, but
24 THE AMERICAN TROUT,
in my experience is more useful, unbaited, for catching
snapping mackerel, young blue-fish, than for any other
purpose. There are the gangs of hooks, consisting of
two or more small hooks back to back, one of which
is inserted in the side or back of the bait, with another
small one further up on the line, which is inserted on
the lip or nose. It answers well for some kinds of fishing,
and for large bait, but does not work well with small
fish. The bait is not bent sufficiently, and does not spin
readily.
Then there is the old-fashioned large single hook,
thrust through the mouth, clown the fleshy part of the
back and out at the side, or out at the gills and back
through the mouth into the side. The objection is that
bait is apt to work down on the bend of the hook, or
the trout is apt to take off the tail of the bait without
being hooked.
The other, and I think the best plan of baiting with
dead bait, is the same as the last, with the addition of a
small hook to thrust through the nose, that tends to
retain the fish in its place, and allow the hook to be car-
ried down further toward the tail, and still make the bait
spin well. Minnow is never properly baited, unless it
spins freely with every motion of the rod, and it must
ever be kept moving. Of course the line must be armed
with the swivel-trace, and in baiting with dead minnow
a Limerick hook should be used, when using worms or
grasshoppers a hook of finer wire is better.
The dead minnow is preferable for rapid water. In
nonds the minnow should be alive, in which case the
hook is to be inserted in front of the dorsal fin, and the
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 25
point may be left under the skin, or exposed, as the
poacher pleases ; I prefer it covered. It should not
penetrate the flesh.
In the Marshpee I was using a single hook, keeping
the bait well ahead of me, and creeping cautiously in
the freezing water, watching the tiny float as it danced
its merry course along, now borne swiftly over the rip-
pling current, anon caught in an eddy and returning on
its track, and then again resting motionless in some dark
and quiet pool. It was scarcely visible beneath the dense
shadows, and once in a while it would disappear from my
straining sight ; then followed a sharp blow with my rod,
a fierce tog, a short fight between fear, despair and cun-
ning on the one side, and strength, energy and judgment
on the other. The prey once hooked, and skill there
was not ; it was a mere contention of two brute forces,
in which the weaker went to the basket. An exhibition
of skill or tenderness would have resulted in an entangle-
ment round the nearest root, and the loss of fish, leader
and hook. Still, there was excitement ; the situation
was romantic, the narrow gorge, the deep and rapid
stream, the closely matted trees and vines, the ever-
changing surface of the current, which adds beauty to
the tamest brook, all combined to lend enchantment
to the scene. The fish were large and vigorous, fresh
run from the sea, where they had, the Winter long,
been a terror to the small fry, and early death to
juicy and unsuspicious shell-fish. They fought fiercely
for life and liberty, their homes and their household
gods, and, alas ! too often successfully. The risk of
their escape added to the interest of the occasion, and
2
26 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
the number of herring darting past gave continual
promise of the presence of their arch enemy, the trout.
I had half-filled my basket, and had met with wonder-
ful escapes and terrible heart-rending losses, mingled
with exhilarating successes. I had made about half the
distance, as well as we judged, and felt proud and happy
as no king upon his throne ever did or will. My rod,
though a fly-rod, was whipped every few inches with silk,
and thus strengthened had stood the unequal conflict
admirably. Still hoping for better things — who will not
hope for the impossible ? — I strode on. Below me the
current made a sudden turn at a bend in the stream, and
eddied swiftly under the overhanging bank. The brook
almost disappeared in what was evidently a vast cavern
deep in the bowels of that bank. In such watery palaces,
amid the worn rocks, the tangled roots, the undulating
moss and weeds, fierce -eyed, monstrous trout delight to
dwell. In such fortresses they await unwary travellers,
and dark deeds are clone in the congenial darkness — ■
outrage, riots and murder stalk boldly about. The
migratory herring, harmless and unsuspicious, peers
in and starts affrighted back, then peers again, at last
ventures forward, and then, compelled by instinct to
ascend, tries to dart hastily by ; there is a sudden rush,
a frantic struggle, a piteous look entreating mercy of
pitiless hearts ; for an instant the water is dyed with
blood and then flows on, washing all trace of the deed
away.
I approach the den carefully, the feather-like float
dancing merrily far ahead over the rippling tide, and aa
the line is paid out, swaying from side to side, close in
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 27
front of the roots that fringe the bank, still not a sign ;
a step forward — the water carries it under the bank out
of sight. I stand still, expectant ; nothing yet ; I creep
cautiously to the very bank, and thrust my rod in the
water, aye, under the bank its full length. What's that !
Ah ! what a tug ! I have him, the monster, the Giant
Despair of the wayfaring herring. How he pulls! I
must have him out of his retreat ; it is a great risk but
my only chance. I strain my rod, my line, almost my
arms, to the utmost ; he comes, disdainful of surreptitious
advantages, relying on his great strength ; he has not
taken protection of weed or stump. Now, my boy,
do your utmost; yes, leap from the water, dart down
with the current ; I must give to you a little ; no line
can stand that strain ; but you will never reach your
lair again. Turn about, head up stream, that is what 1
want ; there is a sandy bank above us, can I but reach
it and land you there. Ah ! you perceive the danger or
have changed your mind ; how you fly down stream
with the slackened line hissing through the water behind
you. Well, go, you will soon turn again. Already,
beautiful, you have passed the bank ; now, rod, be true ;
line, do your duty. The pliant ash bends, the upper
joint has passed below the but in a wide hoop. He
comes, his head is up ; if I can but keep it out of water !
he dashes the foaming waves with his strong tail ; one
more effort ; bend rod, but do not break ; he is out of
water ; I have him. He is dancing on the yellow sand
his last dance in mortal form ; his changing hues glancing
in the mild light, his fierce mouth gasping, his bright
sides befouled with sand and dust, his glittering scales
28 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
torn off by the sharp stones. His efforts grow fainter ;
the flashing eye dims, a few convulsive throes and he is
quiet ; the grim hand of death has pressed upon him.
He is indeed the prince of monsters, the paragon of
giants ; so thick, so deep, with so small a head for so
large a body ; such brilliant hues : the fins so red, the
blue and carmine spots so numerous and delicate. I
wash him off and stand gazing at him in my hand
regardless of further sport. I have captured the king,
and care not to follow his subalterns. I lay him gently
in my basket ; he will not lie at full length. I cover
him with moss, filling the little room left, and forcing
my way through the overhanging bushes, and, reaching
the broad light of day, proudly await the arrival of my
companion. Then the moss is carefully removed, and
the beauties of my darling are unveiled, and flash and
gleam in the sunlight.
There are several ways of landing a trout, but not all
equally sportsmanlike. Large trout may be gaffed,
small ones landed in a net, and where neither of these
means is at hand, they must be dragged out of water, or
flirted up among the bushes, according to the taste of
the angler and the strength of his tackle.
A tyro was once fishing on the same boat with me,
using bait, when he struck his first trout. One can
imagine how entirely misspent had been his previous
existence, when it is said he had never taken a trout,
no, nor any other fish before. It was not a large fish ;
such luck rarely falls to the share of the beginner, and
in spite of what elderly gentlemen may say to the con-
trary, an ignorant countryman, with his sapling rod
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 29
and coarse tackle, never takes the largest fish nor the
greatest in quantity. Were it otherwise, sportsmen had
better turn louts, and tackle makers take to cutting
straight saplings in the woods. My companion, never-
theless, was not a little surprised at the vigorous rushes
the trout made to escape, but his line being strong and
rod stiff, he steadily reeled him in. Great was the
excitement ; his whole mind was devoted to shortening
the line, regardless of what was to be done next. We
had a darkey named Joe with us to row the boat and
land the fish, and our luck having been bad during
the morning, he was delighted at this turn of affairs, and
ready, net in hand, to do his duty. The fish was being
reeled up, till but a few feet of the line remained below
the top, when, with a shout of " land, Joe, land him,' ,
my companion suddenly lifted up his rod, carrying the
trout far above our heads. There it dangled, swaying
to and fro, bouncing and jumping, while the agonized
fisherman besought the darkey to land him, and the
latter, reaching up as far as he could with the net, his
eyes starting out of his head with wonder at this novel
mode of proceeding, came far short of his object. Never
was seen such a sight ; the hopeless despair of my friend,
the eagerness of the darkey, who fairly strove to climb
the rod as the fish danced about far out of reach. What
was to done ? The line would not render, the rod was
so long we could not reach the tip in the boat ; and the
only horrible alternative appeared to be my friend's
losing his first fish. The latter, however, by this remark-
able course of treatment, had grown peaceable, and
when he was dropped back into the water, made but
30 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
feeble efforts, while my companion, as quietly as he
could, worked out his line till he could land him like a
Christian. Great were the rejoicings when the prize
earned with so much anxiety was secured. That is the
way not to land a trout.
One afternoon of a very boisterous day, I struck a large
fish at the deep hole in the centre of Fhillipse's Pond, on
Long Island. He came out fiercely, and taking my fly
as he went down, darted at once for the bottom, which is
absolutely covered with long, thick weeds. The moment
he found he was struck, he took refuge among them, and
tangled himself up so effectually that I could not feel
him, and supposed he had escaped. By carefully exert-
ing sufficient force, however, the weeds were loosened
from the bottom, and the electric thrill of his renewed
motion was again perceptible. He was allowed to draw
the line through the weeds and play below them, as by
so doing they would give a little, while if confined in
them he would have a leverage against them, and could,
with one vigorous twist, tear out the hook. When he
was somew T hat exhausted, the question as to the better
mode of landing him arose. The wind was blowing so
hard as to raise quite a sea, which washed the weeds
before it in spite of any strain that could be exerted by
the rod, and drifted the boat as well, rendering the latter
almost unmanageable, while the fish was still so vigorous
as to threaten at every moment to escape. I besought
the boatman, who was an old hand and thoroughly up
to his business, to drop the boat down to the weeds and
let me try and land my fish with one hand while holding
the rod with the other. He knew the dangers of such a
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 32
course, and insisted upon rowing slowly and carefully
for shore at a shallow place sheltered from the wind ;
although I greatly feared the hook would tear out or the
rod snap under the strain of towing both weeds and
fish ; once near shore, he deliberately forced an oar intc
the mud and made the boat fast to it, and then taking
up the net, watched for a favorable chance. He waited
for some time, carefully putting the weeds aside, until a
gleaming line of silver glanced for a moment beneath
the water, when darting the net down, he as suddenly
brought it up, revealing within its folds the glorious
colors of a splendid trout. That was the way to land a
trout under difficulties, although I still think I could
have done it successfully by myself.
Generally, the utmost delicacy should be shown in
killing a fish, but there are times when force must be
exerted. If the fish is making for a stump, or even
weeds, he must be stopped at any reasonable risk of the
rod's breaking or the fly's tearing out. A stump is the
most dangerous ; one turn round that, and he is off, leav-
ing your flies fast probably in a most inconvenient place
and many feet below the surface of the water. Bui
remember the oft-repeated maxim of a friend of the
writer's, who has been with him many a joyous fishing
day, that " One trout hooked is worth a dozen not
hooked." Small trout are more apt to escape than largo
ones, because the skin round the mouth of the latter is
tougher. With either, however, there is risk enough ,
the hook is small, and often takes but a slight hold ; the
gut is delicate, and frequently half worn through by
continual casting.
32 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
Fish are, in a majority of instances, hooked in the
corner of the upper jaw, where there is but a thin skin
to hold them ; by long-continued struggle, the hole wears
larger, and finally, to the agony of the fisherman, the
hook slips out.
There are occasions when force must be exerted, and
then good tackle and a well-made rod will repay the cost.
At dusk one night I cautiously approached the edge of a
newly-made pond that was as full of stumps as of fish,
both being about the extreme limit, and casting into the
clear water, struck a fine fish of three-quarters of a
pound. Not one minute's grace did he receive, but I
lugged and he fought, and after a general turmoil I suc-
ceeded in bringing him to land, in spite of weeds and
stumps and twigs, which he did his best to reach. The
same was clone with seven fish after a loss of only three
flies, and with a rod that weighed but eight ounces.
A rod is not so apt to break from a fair strain as from
a short twist ; of course, if you strike i large fish as yon
raise to cast, or catch in the bushes behind yon when
your line is extended, any rod may break. This, how-
ever, rarely happens, and you are as likely to break the
tip by trying to pull the line through the rings with your
hand, or by lifting a small trout out of water and swinging
it in past you, as in any other way. In drawing a fish to
shore when you have no landing net, step back and
bring the strain evenly on your rod, and it will rarely give
way. If you find the fish takes down the current and
you are unable to hold him, follow him if you can, and
if not, point your rod toward him and bring the strain on
the line. The hook may tear out, or the gnt may break,
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 35
or even the line may be lost, but you will save your rod,
while otherwise you would probably lose both.
In landing a fish, wait till he is pretty well exhausted,
bring his mouth above water and keep it there till he is
drawn into the net, and warn your assistant to remove
the net at once if he gets his head down. By diving
after him with the net, the assistant would certainly not
catch the fish and might tangle one of your other flies.
The fish should be led into the net, and the latter kept
as still as possible ; he knows as well as you do what it is
for, and if his attention is drawn to it, will dart oft* as
madly as ever.
There are occasions and situations where a fly cannot
be used, and a minnow — called clown East, from the Indian
name mummy chog, a mummy — cannot be obtained. In
such cases it becomes necessary to fall back upon first
principles. A grasshopper, twitched along the surface of
the water in a way called skittering, is an effective bait,
although an imitation grasshopper, as well as an imita-
tion minnow, does not answer and will not deceive trout.
Salmon and trout roe are used, and it is said, contrary to
the writer's experience, with great success. Gentles,
which are grubs hatched in meat that has been fly-
blown, are a favorite bait in Europe ; but, in spite of
their beautiful name, are horrible objects and not in
vogue with us. Caddies, or the larvae of the Phry-
ganidce in their cases, are also in use there, but not
here. We must, therefore, have recourse to the angle-
worm.
The finest worms are to be found in tanyards ; they
should be placed on the top of damp moss, left for a
2*
34; THE AMERICAN TROUT.
night or two to work themselves clean, and then placed
io other moss sprinkled with milk. They become strong,
light colored and lively, and should be threaded on a fine
hook by passing the point in at the head of the worm
and out half-way down the side ; then in, half up the
side of another, and forced nearly to the head. Worms,
if cast as in fly-fishing, are very attractive, and will fre-
quently kill an immense number offish. There is much
skill in casting so as not to tear off the bait, and yet to
cover an extent of water
In rapid streams, whether with bait or fly, always fish
down stream ; there is less noise, the line is kept taught,
the fly looks more natural, and unless the wind is strong
against you, it will be much easier and pleasanter fish-
ing. Move the bait continually ; keep it in motion
under all circumstances ; this is the great secret of bait-
fishing.
I have also heard of shrimp preserved in whisky
being used, and think they might answer for fish that
have just run from the salt water ; but as frequent
experiment with the live shrimp has proved their inferi-
ority to minnow, I have little faith in them.
The trout is admitted to be the most beautiful of all our
fish ; not so large nor powerful as the salmon, he is much
more numerous, abounding in all the brooks and rivulets
of our northern States. He lives at our very doors ; in
the stream that meanders across yon meadow, where the
haymakers are now busy with their scythes, we have
taken him in our early days ; down yonder in that wood,
there is a brook filled with bright, lively little fellows ;
and away over there we know of pools where there are
THE AMERICAN TROUT 35
splendid ones. Who has not said or thought such words
as he stood in the bright summer's day under the grate-
ful shade of the piazza running round the old country
house where he played, a boy ?
He does not make the nerves thrill and tingle like the
salmon, he does not leap so madly into the air nor make
such fierce, resolute rushes, he has not the silver sides
nor the great strength ; but he is beautiful as the sunset
sky, brave as bravery itself, and is our own home dar-
ling. How he flashes upon the sight as he grasps the
spurious insect, and turns down with a quick little slap
of the tail ! How he darts hither and thither when he
finds he is hooked ! How persistently he struggles till
enveloped in the net ! And then with what heart-rend-
ing sighs he breathes away his life !
There is no fish like him. Lay your prize on a bed
of moss, which is his natural resting-place ; look at
the exquisite hues like shotten silk, the dark spots, the
carmine specks, the single first white ray in his fins, and
the rich red of the second extending to the lower edge of
the abdomen ; the greenish-mottled back, the silver below
— what a picture for the painter, if his brush could catch
the evanescent tints. How proudly and fondly we gaze
on our beautiful prize, not with the mere rude, brutal
pride in securing so much booty, such a sum in money
value, or a delightful dish for the table, but with an affecta-
tion that is hard to explain to those who are not anglers.
The sportsman is more fond of the game he pursues and
more anxious to preserve it from destruction than the
most pretentious humanitarian of animal worshippers.
The angler is proverbially the most gentle of men, he is
fond of nature, peaceable, contemplative, patient; he
36 THE RUNNING TROUT.
admires the grandeur of the woods, the rugged strength
of the rocks, and the changing splendor of the sky. He
listens with pleasure to the murmur of the brook, the
songs of the birds, and the rustle of the wind.
The man who kills to kill, who is not satisfied with
reasonable sport, who slays unfairly or out of season,
who adds one wanton pang, that man receives the con-
tempt of all good sportsmen and deserves the felon's
doom. Of such there are but few.
We seek this, our favorite fish, in early Spring, when
the ice has just melted, and the cold winds remind one
forcibly of bleak December, and when we find him in
the salt water streams, especially of Long Island and
Cape Cod ; but we love most to follow him in the early
Summer, along the merry streams of old Orange, or the
mountain brooks of Sullivan County. Where the air is
full of gladness, and the trees are heavy with foliage —
where the birds are singing upon every bough, and the
grass is redolent of violets and early flowers. There we
wade the cold brooks, the leafy branches bowing us a
welcome as we pass — the water rippling over the hidden
rocks, and telling us, in its wayward way, of the fine fish
it carries in its bosom. With creel upon our shoulder and
rod in hand, we reck not of the hours, and only when
the sinking sun warns of the approaching darkness, do
we seek, with sharpened appetite, the hospitable country
inn, and the comfortable supper that our prey will fur-
nish forth.
The brooks of Long Island, especially on the south-
ern shore, abound with trout. But they are few in com-
parison with the hordes that once swarmed in the
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 37
streams of Sullivan and Orange counties, and in fact all
the lower tier of counties in this State, before the Erie
Railroad was built, and opened the land to the crowd of
market men. I am proud to say I have travelled that
country when it took the stage coach twelve hours to go
twenty -four miles, and when, if we were in a hurry, we
walked, and sent our baggage by the coach. Now you
are jerked along high above our favorite meadows,
directly through our wildest hills, and often under our
best streams, at the rate of forty miles an hour, and yet
people call that an improvement. As well might you
lug a man out of bed at night, drag him a dozen times
round his room, and fling him back into bed, and say he
was improved by the operation. ~No one wants to be
lugged out of bed, precisely as no one wanted to travel
beyond Sullivan County ; the best shooting and fishing
in the world was to be found there.
When the railroad was first opened, the country was
literally overrun, and Bashe's Kill, Pine Kill, the Sand-
berg, the Mon Gaup and Callicoon, and even Beaver
Kill, which we thought were inexhaustible, were fished
out. For many years trout had almost ceased from out
of the waters, but the horrible public, having their
attention drawn to the Adirondacks, gave it a little rest,
and now the fishing is good.
If you go there, stop at George Durrance's, in "Wurts-
borough, and if he boasts of fishing, as he will,* ask him
whether he remembers going to the Sandberg one day,
many years ago, to show a Yorker how to catch trout.
It was a bright sunshiny clay, and as we drove up to the
edge of the bank, above a clear, rapid, sparkling stream, I
* If he is alive at this writing.
38 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
saw a large trout leap heavily out of water, where the cur-
rent swept with a swirl past a high rock. As I rigged up
my flies, George borrowed my knife to cut a pole,^as he did
*iot have much faith in " them things," and while he was
gone, I crept cautiously up behind the rock, and cast
over the further projecting point. I could not see my
flies alight, but heard a splash, and striking felt I had a
splendid fish. He fought bravely, but by keeping him
in the upper part of the pool, the lower end by the rock,
was not disturbed. After some trouble, I landed him,
having no net. Then approaching the rock with the
same caution, the performance was repeated, only this
time my rod was broken in endeavoring to land the fish,
and it was necessary to find George and obtain my
knife.
I discovered him under the bushes on the bank, in a
miserable state — it was oppressively hot — his rod was a
long sapling, and naturally heavy — the sky and water
were clear, and the fish would not touch the worm,
which we could see from where he sat. He had only
taken two miserable little fish. He did no better all
day, and while I rose and killed fish after fish, he did
not take another one. When afternoon came, and he
impatiently urged me away, my basket was so full it
broke down, and he had his two fish. On reaching his
house, the boys spread our respective takes out on a
board, and to George's deep chagrin exhibited them to
the entire village. He has not taught a " Yorker" how
to catch trout since.
So much for your countryman, with his bed-cord for
line and stick for pole, and yet George was admitted to
THE AMERICAN TROUT. 39
be the best fisherman in that neighborhood. A person
residing near a stream, and having fished it from infancy,
and acquainted with its every pool, has an immense
advantage over a stranger ; but there was only one coun-
tryman ever beat me trout-fishing, and he, after taking
me to the stream, slipped off and waded it down ahead
of me.
All the streams that, taking their rise in or near this
State, flow into the Delaware or Susquehanna, are filled
with trout; the Tobyhanna, the Bushkill, Broadhead's
Creek and a thousand others, that the Erie and Lacka-
wanna railroads now make easy of access. While Hamil-
ton County, Essex, the region of the Adirondacks, Clinton
County with its Chateaugay and Chazy Lakes, and the
Saranac River, and Eranklin County with its innumera-
ble ponds, offer all the sport that the heart of man can
desire. All the streams of ISTew England, especially in
the neighborhood of the White Mountains, are filled
with small trout ; while the State of Maine, in Moose-
head Lake, the Kennebec, and its other fine rivers and
lakes, affords the finest brook trout-fishing in the world.
The angler may, therefore, seek his darling close to
his own summer-house, or may drop in at any of the
many well kept taverns on the south side of Long
Island, where he will find every comfort and most of
the luxuries of the day, will meet other enthusiastic
fishermen, who will relate varied and interesting expe-
riences, and exchange views and fancies with him,
and will prove themselves, if real fishermen, the most
obliging and unselfish gentlemen in the world ; or he
may seek the lonely hotel at Lake Pleasant or Moose-
40 THE AMERICAN TROUT.
head Lake, where he will still find comfort in a rougher
way, and wonderful good sport ; or he may boldly strike
out into the trackless woods, commit himself to his birch
canoe and trusty guide, and then, if he be made of the
right stuff, I promise him such happiness as he will never
forget — merry innocent days and dreamless nights,
health in every limb, and contentment in his mind.*
There is no fish more difficult to catch, nor that gives
the true angler more genuine sport than the trout. His
capture requires the nicest tackle, the greatest skill, the
most complete self-command, the highest qualities of
mind and body. The arm must be strong that wields
the rod ; the eye true that sees the rise ; the wrist quick
that strikes at the instant; the judgment good, that selects
the best spot, the most suitable fly, and knows just how
to kill the fish. A fine temper is required to bear up
against the loss of a noble fish, and patient perseverance
to conquer ill luck.
Hence it is that the fisherman is so proud of his basket
of a dozen half-pound trout, he feels that any one more
awkward or less resolute could not have done so well.
He feels conscious that he does not owe his success to
mere luck, but has deserved the glory. He feels that
he has elevated himself by the very effort. Do not sup-
pose I mean that there is no skill in other fishing;
there is in all, even in catching a minnow for bait, but
aost of all in trout-fishing.
* Since that was written, many of these waters have heen depleted, and Long
Island has been so thoroughly preserved that there is hardly a free pond or stream
from one end to the other of it.
SEA TROUT. 41
CHAPTER III.
SEA TROUT.
Salmo Trutta Marina — Salmon Trout — White Trout.
This fish corresponds precisely with the description
given by Dr. De Kay of the Speckled Trout, Salmo Fon-
tinalis, except in the following particulars :
I can find no teeth in the vomer or central part of the
roof of the mouth any more than I can find them on the
common brook trout, and I have examined great numbers
of the latter for the purpose. The pectorals are nearly a
transparent white, slightly tinged with red at the origin
of the rays, except that the second ray is darkish. The
first ray of the ventrals is yellow, the second dark, the
third and the others orange fading into white ; the origin
of the ventrals is directly under that of the first dorsal.
The first ray of the anal fin is orange, the second and
others dark green, growing lighter toward the tail, the
origin of the second and third rays being yellowish.
The scales are very small, imbedded in the skin, and
there are neither scales nor defined spots on the gill-
covers. The fin-rays are as follows :
Br. 12 ; D. 13 ; P. 13 ; V. 8 ; A. 10 ; C. 19^.
The branchial rays seem to differ sometimes, the same*
fish having eleven on one side and twelve on the othei,
and the highest one is a half ray or small plate. The
42 SEA TROUT.
anal, properly speaking, has eleven rays, but the first ia
so delicate and so lost in the fleshy part of the fin, that
it is hardly distinguishable.
The coloring of these fish differs greatly from that of
the common trout, but it is universally conceded that
color is no test or distinction of species. "When fresh
run from the sea, and when still inhabiting the salt
water, they are gloriously brilliant ; their backs a liquid
bluish green, the under part flashing like molten silver.
The spots and scarlet specks on their sparkling sides are
of a purer tone, and the lower fins more slender and
delicate.
They are found in the bays of Prince Edward's Island,
in the harbors of New Brunswick, and in all the gulf
and river of St. Lawrence and its lower tributaries. In
Frank Forrester's "Fish and Fishing," a letter from Mr.
Perley, the British Commissioner of Fisheries, is quoted,
page 123, in which he says these fish do not ascend into
purely fresh water. In this I am reluctantly, out of
respect to his great experience as a fisherman and high
standing in scientific attainments, compelled to differ
from him. I have unquestionably taken these fish far
above tide water, and have the best authority for saying
that usually, if not invariably, the larger trout at least
ascend to the head-waters of the mountain streams to
spawn. I venture to say that no large sea trout are
taken in the tide water after the last, and rarely after
the first of August. It is probable that he has been
misled by the- fact that there are trout in the same
streams that never descend to the sea, and there is a
marked difference in color between them and theij
SEA TROUT. 43
biethren, although I believe they are the same fish. For
the correctness of these views, reference can be made to
the experience of many authorities that would be satis-
factory to one that I esteem and respect as much as I
do my excellent friend and brother of the angle, Mr.
Perley. While mentioning his name, it will not be
amiss to tender him, in the name of the fishermen of the
United States, our thanks and grateful acknowledgments
for the invariable kindness, courtesy and good humor
with which he has answered the numerous questions
entailed upon him by his mention in Frank Forrester's
u Fish and Fishing," and the valuable aid and advice he
has furnished the wanderers from the States in their
search for piscatorial happiness. Combining as he does
the heartiness of an Englishman with the sociability of
our own country, we are proud to claim him, while
he remains in our vicinity, as half an American. But
let me, at the same time, suggest to my countrymen,
that there is a limit even to the best of tempers, and
that, although each one may only put a few questions
and take up a little valuable time, the total combined
may be annoying, inconvenient, and even excessively
burdensome.*
In addition to the positive fact of taking sea trout
above tide water, it is to be remarked as a habit of all
trout to ascend in summer to the cool sources of the
springy brooks, and our common trout will invariably
be found, after the warm weather is at its height, either
in the rivulets that feed the ponds where they dwell in
winter, or at the head- waters of the ponds. The sun's
rays are so powerful that they affect any sheet of open
* Since then passed away. Peace and happiness be with him.
44: SEA TROUT.
vater, especially the harbors and bays of the ocean, and
the fish will not live there, but withdraw to cooler
regions. A remarkable case of this kind fell under the
writer's observation at Masapequa Pond, which is uni-
versally admitted to be the best preserve on Long Island.
It is rather small, and quite shallow except in the chan-
nel, and being entirely unsheltered, is liable to become
heated in hot weather. The spring had been remark-
ably mild, and in the middle of May, after a number of
days that reminded one of June, I visited Masapequa,
and, although the weather was favorable and a lively
ripple darkened the water, only two trout were killed
in the entire morning. I was much discouraged and
surprised, until happening to get my flies caught, I put
my hand into the water and found it milk-warm. The
explanation was simple, and I at once told the proprietor,
who had been more astounded than myself, that the fish
had run out of the pond into the brook ; and there, sure
enough, we shortly discovered them lying in the deep
pools in shoals.
If they cannot retire to cool, fresh, aerated water, they
will perish, as happened one dry, warm season in a pond
at Oyster Bay, which, although well filled with trout,
had no extensive head-waters. The fish crowded round
the flume, hardly disturbed by being touched with a
stick, remaining motionless, and evidently suffering.
They died and were picked up by scores.
If sea trout do not ascend the fresh streams, where do
they spawn ? From the habits of all the salmon tribe,
we know they must have a current of pure and cool
water to vivify the eggs, and they certainly cannot find
SEA TROUT. 45
this along the shores and Days. Their eggs must De
deposited on a gravelly bed and not on sand, and as the
bottom of the salt water, which is purely sand, even if
appropriate spawning ground, is peopled with all sorts,
shapes and sizes of creeping, crawling and burrowing
things, from sand-worms to sea-eggs, the spawn would
be utterly destroyed long before it could come to ma-
turity. If, in spite of all these difficulties, the eggs
should hatch, the young fry being entirely helpless for
thirty days, and little able to take care of themselves
afterward, would be annihilated by their elder brethren
or the first sea fish that came along. Young trout, in
their appropriate localities, hide carefully in little spring
rills and close along shore for months after they are
hatched, and not till well grown and active do they
trust themselves in the deeper places among the larger
fish. Nature has taught them that the latter have an
excessive fondness for them.
Whether sea trout spawn earlier than brook trout, 1
do not know, but very possibly they may, as in cooler
countries fish usually spawn earlier than in warmer ones.
However, in August the roe is not developed to any
great extent ; no more so, apparently, than with us, and,
although the Canadian Winter sets in earlier than ours,
trout do not fear the cold. The regions they inhabit
being extremely difficult of access in the freezing season,
this question may remain some time unsolved.
Whether sea trout should be ranked as a distinct
species, or whether there are any different species of
trout in America, has been a serious question. It is a
great misfortune that every naturalist, in his eager
40 SEA TROUT.
endeavor to discover new species and originate new
names, lias caught at the slightest distinctions in appear-
ance, which are often only due to food or water, and has
immediately dubbed the fish a knight and endowed him
with a new name — frequently some horrible Latin per-
version of his own. Real distinctions are those perma-
nent ones that no change of food and water can affect,
nor the chance influence of a few shell-fish or a muddy
bottom. There are distinctions between these trout and
brook trout, of color, comparative size of different parts
of the body, formation of the head and fins ; but not
more so than one often meets with in fishing any of the
streams of Long Island that communicate w T ith the sea,
or even in the different streams of the w T ild woods. The
sea trout of Canada certainly do far excel the ordinary
trout in size, being taken, with the fly, weighing nine
pounds, and the ordinary average being from three to
four; but otherwise they seem to have no permanent
peculiarity that should distinguish them from the com-
mon brook trout. All other distinctions fade after the
trout have been for some time in fresh water, and a late
run of sea trout differs far more from those which have
ascended the streams a month earlier than the latter
from the brook trout. Indeed, some sea trout have
become domesticated in the fresh water, and never
returning to the sea, have settled down, although often
f great size, into the ordinary trout.
In Stump Pond, on Long Island, and the adjacent
waters, are four different varieties of trout: the old-
fashioned Stump Pond Trout, *w T itha black mouth, a
long, thin body, a big head, and a wolfish, hungry
* The old Stump Pond trout has of late years wholly disappeared.
SEA TROUT. 47
look; the Salt Water Trout, with a small, sleepy head,
a deep body, and a rich coloring, small fins and red
flesh ; the Brook Trout, long, narrow, brightly marked,
gracefully shaped and lively; and a trout which has
appeared in a new pond, scarcely yet completed, with a
dark, strong coloring, very black on the back, a thick,
stout body, and a well proportioned head. Any one can
distinguish these fish at a glance, but must they each
have a different name, and a Latin one at that?
The fresh run sea trout of the North have beautiful
silver sides, almost as bright as a salmon's, and in this
particular, at least, differ from the salt water loving-
trout of Long Island and Cape Cod. Their heads are
small, delicate, and exquisitely shaped, and their lower
fins are small and almost transparent. The heads of the
males are larger, and the lower jaw more hooked than
those of the female, and these differences increase as the
spawning season advances. The head of the female
bears a comparison to that of a modest, refined lady,
while that of the male resembles the big head and ugly
jaw of the struggling, quarrelling, but protecting man.
A.t times their flesh is a bright red, often a dull yellow
and rarely whitish. The shape of their bodies is grace-
ful and broad across the back, to a greater degree in
both particulars than the sea run trout of Long Island
and Massachusetts. But as they ascend the rivers, and
after they have been some time in their new abode, these
peculiarities diminish, the color of their backs turns from
a beautiful green to a dull black, the splendor of their
silvery sides fades, and the heavy spots and roseate tinge
appear ; their translucent fins grow opaque and strong
4:8 SEA TROUT.
from greater use in the swift current ; their shape even
seems to alter, and they are altogether unlovely by com-
parison with their former selves. Are they, therefore,
" like Cerberus, three gentlemen at once," and entitled
to three distinct appellations, or are they simply our
dearly loved old friends, the Speckled Trout t
The change in appearance of these fish cannot be ex-
plained by the suggestion that the ordinary brook trout
ascend the rivers and mingle with those of the sea, be-
cause the latter are to be caught in every stage, from the
brilliancy of the fresh river fish to the dull colors of the
oldest inhabitant. And it will be noticed that at the
heads of the rivers a bright-colored fish is rarely met with,
although they must be, with few exceptions, all sea trout.
The best trout rivers of Canada are troublesome to reach,
difficult to ascend, and seldom attempted by any but the
salmon fisher. To the latter, the trout, attractive as he
seems to us, is a trial and a nuisance. Abundant and vora-
cious, he often rushes in advance of the lordly salmon, seizes
the fly, and then discovering his mistake, by his struggles
disturbs the pool, ruffles the fisherman's temper, and
frightens the larger game from its equanimity. He is
therefore little noticed by the frequenters of the head-
waters, except to be denounced, and his delicate peculi-
arities seldom considered and less esteemed. He is princi-
pally sought in the tide water along the shores, or from
boats in the open bays, but rarely followed to his summer
home. The statements, therefore, of Canadian fishermen
with regard to him must be cautiously received and care-
fully weighed ; their experience may not have been snf-
ciently extended.
SEA TROUT. 49
Whatever be his name, he is a beauty, the fairest of
the children of the sea. There are others of more varie-
gated colors, of gaudier hues, of more slender shape, but
the trout is lord of all. He is the pet of the true fisher-
man, whether taken by the name of Kalmo trutta in the
bays of Canada, weighing over ten pounds, or as Salmo
fontinaMs, in the mountain streams of Vermont, reach-
ing not one quarter as many ounces. In Canada,
sportsmen — and none others seem to fish — take the sea
trout solely with the fly. In June, and earlier, they are
found in the tide waters, and there prefer gaudy flies.
The scarlet ibis, or curry-curry of South America, dressed
as it is ordinarily done, or diversified by a little gold or
silver tinsel wound round the body, or indeed the entire
hook wound with tinsel alone, is by many preferred to
all other flies ; but the red hackle, the golden pheasant,
the professor, the grey drake, and in fact any gay fly,
will meet with approval. A much admired fly is made
of a red body and yellow wings ; but the more sober
colors must not be forgotten nor neglected, they are
often more successful than their gaudy relations. As
the season advances, and the fish ascend the clear, cool
rivers, especially if the water be low and the weather
dry, the sober flies are preferable. Then the cow-dung,
the alder-fly, the turkey-brown, the winged black hackle,
and in fact all the ordinary flies, are in demand ; a fly
invented by myself, of a blackbird's wing and a claret
body and legs, and called the early fly, has often proved
itself uncommonly killing ; and indeed all the flies usu-
ally employed in other waters are appropriate for the sea
trout in Canada.
50 SEA TROUT.
Neither does the size of hook differ from that ordi
narily in use ; it should average about a number nine,
with a few somewhat larger for rougb water. It is
rarely desirable, on account of the enormous size of the
fish, to use more than one fly at a time, and generally
the trout will soon remove the difficulty by reducing
them to that number ; but at times, when fish are shy,
they seem to be attracted by seeing several. In order to
kill the largest possible quantity, without any regard to
humanity or sportsmanship, a heavy fly-rod is desirable,
as much time is lost in landing them with a delicate
rod.
For many hundred miles below Quebec, the majestic
St. Lawrence rolls its transparent waters in a steady
surge toward the ocean. Forward and backward heaves
the mighty tide, piling up the waters eighteen and
twenty feet ; but the steady current keeps on its course
toward the gulf. Into this wonderful stream, that can
only be likened to an arm of the sea, at every few miles
debouches from the granite hills a river, more or less
extensive and more or less rocky and turbulent. These
rivers rise on the mountain tops, cold and clear, and
thunder down over falls and rapids, through chasms and
gorges split in the eternal rock, till they leap, tumble or
crawl into that outlet of a thousand lakes, the highway
of the Canadas.
These streams the salmon and trout ascend, there to
disport themselves, there to make love, prepare their
nests, and perpetuate their species. The water is cool,
running from the frigid regions of the north or supplied
by icy springs, and the bottom offers every variety of
SEA TROUT. 51
spawning beds. There is the stony pool for the salmon,
the pebbly one for the trout, and never do the two
spawn, and rarely even live, in the same. The pool
where the salmon lie is deep and rapid, with a bottom
composed of dark limestones averaging about the size of
a bantam's egg. While the trout hide in a sluggish pool,
and often one worn away by the water and hollowed
from a clay bank. It is a tradition, but one by no means
well substantiated, that trout never eat young salmon,
nor salmon young trout. As trout are more fond of their
own species than almost any other delicacy, it is not
probable they would be fastidious about swallowing a
nice, juicy little salmon.
The country through which these streams run is very
peculiar : rough hills of granite rise almost perpendicu-
larly from the edge of the water, many hundred and
sometimes many thousand feet. Their sides are bare
and bleak, and if adorned at all with verdure, it is with
a stunted pine and spruce, that only half hides the white
rock beneath. The streams wind in tortuous course
among the crags, and slowly gain a liigh elevation.
These bare, unprofitable hills extend back from the north
shore of the St. Lawrence as far as the foot of man has
penetrated, and only at long intervals by the shore of
some of the larger rivers, where forty centuries of storms
have worn away and washed the detritus from the moun-
tain into some little bay, have half civilized beings been
enabled to build rough cabins and glean a scanty sub-
sistence. Thus are these waters, the home and nursery
of the trout and salmon, protected forever by nature
against the pervading destructiveness of man. Judicious
52 SEA TROUT.
kiws have been passed and will be enforced by the Cana-
dian government, and the American fisherman may
find in neighboring waters what he will never again see
in his own, these noble fish dwelling in abundance, and
protected from worthless, wanton and unreasonable
destruction.
It is a burning shame, a foul blot on the character of
Americans, and tarnish on their reputation lor far-sighted
economy, that their only idea of the treatment of the
wild game of the woods and waters seems to be total
annihilation. " After me a desert," is their motto ; and
they never rest till, by planting snares and liming
streams, they have caught the last partridge and poi-
soned the last fish. Thus have they already destroyed
one of the most valuable resources of the country ; the
Hudson, the Connecticut, the Penobscot, and even the
Kennebec, yield no more salmon, and we yearly pay to
Canada enormous sums for what we once had, and might
still have, in plenty on our own shores. HSTot many
years ago a person buying shad on the Connecticut
River was required to take such a proportion of salmon.
Now that the head-waters are covered with tanneries and
saw-mills, and are crossed by dams without the simple
expedient of a flume that the fish could ascend, and now
that early salmon are worth a dollar a pound in New
York market, where are the former denizens of the Con-
necticut ?
All the timber cut on the streams would not pay for
the damage done to the fisheries. In Canada the people
have discovered, fortunately for them not too late, the
importance of stringent protective laws. The nets can
SEA TROUT. 53
only be set within a certain distance, and cannot extend
across the entire stream. In Lower Canada the net fish-
ing terminates on the first day of August, and the rod
fishing on the fifteenth of September, and spearing, the
most cruel, unprofitable and injurious mode of destruc-
tion, is forbidden altogether.
About one hundred and twenty miles below Quebec
the wondrous Saguenay pours its dark waters and
fierce current into the placid bosom of the St. Lawrence.
It is one of the natural wonders of our still new and
scarcely explored country. Hills rise a thousand feet
sheer up, and its waters descend a thousand feet deep
at their base. The St. Lawrence, at its mouth, is
only some thirty feet deep, but the bottom suddenly
descends at the entrance to the Saguenay, and becomes
from five hundred to a thousand feet in depth. The
breadth of the Saguenay is so great that the grandeur
of the mountains is lost to the eye, and the scenery is
remarkable more for ruggedness than beauty. At the
mouth of this river was the first station of the Hudson
Bay Company, a little village called Tadousac, which is
pronounced with the emphasis on the last syllable, and in
that village stands the mission church of the Jesuits, the
oldest in the country
Close to Tadousac, and almost adjoining at the back,
is a still smaller village called L'Anse a 1'Eau, and
although great ships no longer lie at Tadousac, and the
houses are fast falling to decay, and the good men of the
olden days have long gone their last journey, and the trap-
pers are never more seen around the famous station, and
the glory of the Hudson Bay Company has departed,
54 SEA TROUT.
the trout and salmon coast along the rocks and visit the
inlets as they did when priests promenaded the natural
terraces of Tadousac, and when the shortest road to the
Northwest was up the Saguenay River. The trout care
not though the iron horse has sprung two great leaps
across the water that they live in, and know not that a
woman, the only Catholic that can read, officiates as
higli priest in the sanctum of the woman-haters, the
mission church of the Jesuits.
The St. Lawrence abounds with most delicious food
for trout ; there are acres of small fish ; the sand eels
crowd the bays yards deep, the sardines, the mullet, the
capelin, the tommy cods, push and jostle their way
along, .while shellfish innumerable cover the sandy bot-
tom. Flies swarm on the water, and the deep rivers in
Winter and the cool streams in Summer constitute the
paradise of the salmonidce.
Along the shores of the tide water, early in Spring the
trout and salmon make their appearance, and wandering
about pass the merry days of May, June and July in
feasting and junketing, in visiting new scenes and tast-
ing every variety of food, till instinct warns them the
waters are falling, and they must hasten to their syl-
van bowers and enjoy the pleasures of love and paternity.
Then slowly, the largest first, they leave the tide waters
and swarm up all the practicable streams, running the
rapids and steadily advancing to their pebbly spawning
beds, which kind nature appears to have prepared in the
heart of these impassable mountains for their especial
protection. Through all this season, June, July and Au-
gust, the fishing is magnificent ; they are in great
SEA TROUT. 55
numbers, and of immense size ; but after they have
once left the salt water, the angler must accompany
them in their ascent if he would continue his sport, and
by clay struggle in his canoe against the rapids, up which
he hears them darting at night.
While the fish are still in tide water, and the fisher-
man is fishing from the rocks, the head of some bay
into which flows a stream of fresh water, and the time
of the lower half of the tide, are both desirable. The
former as furnishing a variety of food, and the latter as
contracting the fishing ground. The eddies of a swift
current, and the hollows of a rocky bottom are both
affected by the fish ; although they are often found
along a smooth sandy shore, chasing the minnows, and
now and then dashing at a fly or sand-hopper thrown
off the land. It is nothing unusual to capture a hun-
dred fish in as few hours as it will require to land them,
and often the only limit to the number will be the
sportsman's humanity. They are a difficult fish to pre-
serve ; it seems sacrilegious to salt them ; they are not
good pickled in brine, and smoking is both injurious
and troublesome. The fisherman, if he would not have
them rot before his eyes, must put a bridle on his eager-
ness.
They run very large, sometimes above a dozen pounds,
are often taken of Hve and six, and frequently a whole
day's catch will average three pounds. They are found
at the mouth and along the shore of every river that
empties into the lower part of the St. Lawrence. They
ascend the Saguenay, and are taken at and near its
mouth in great numbers, and in fact everywhere in the
56 SEA TROUT.
lower St. Lawrence and all its tributaries they abound,
It would be more difficult to tell where not to find them
than where to find them. But the best trout-fishing sea
son is later, when they have followed the salmon and
retired to the upper waters of the mountain streams,
where they lie together in shoals, in the deep pools.
Then they may be traced by the wake their motion
leaves in the water ; then may the fisherman, casting a
long line and careful fly, pick the finest and go on fish-
ing till heart and soul are satisfied. There, amid the
wild scenery, at the foot of the granite hills, by the
shade of the stunted spruce, he may take his stand upon
some point of rocks, near to a black pool, and deftly
wielding the slender rod, may bring to the net one after
another of the mighty denizens of the water. But even
then, if he would take the mightiest he must prove him-
self a sportsman by keeping out of sight and casting far
and straight. And when his sport is terminated by the
declining day, or his ample satisfaction, and he meets
his companions round the camp-fire, over a well cooked
supper improved by a vigorous appetite, he will exchange
experiences of the habits of fish or the arcana of the
angler's art.
If, however, he loves the " wet sheet and the flowing
sea," a nautical anomaly, by the way, he may pursue
his prey in the open bays, and with a smart breeze and
long line, and gaudy fly dancing from wave to wave,
have great sport. Under these circumstances the fish
are almost uncontrollable and must be often followed
with the boat for a long way before they can be killed.
It is gloriously exciting, the bright waters sparkling with
SEA TROUT. 57
foam, the light boat leaping over the billows, the sky
magnificent in its depth of blue, the fresh breeze cool
and strong ; and the fish just hooked, furious, vigorous
and courageous, rushing hither and thither, plunging to
the bottom or springing high out of water. Then the
exciting chase as he takes off fortunately down wind,
and exhausts all but the few last turns of line on the reel
till it becomes a question of speed between him and the
boat, and at last his final surrender and capture. Truly
is it magnificent.
Riviere du Loup, a little Canadian village situated
on the St. Lawrence, opposite the mouth of the Sague-
nay, is now connected with Quebec by railroad, and
is only a day and a half distant from New York. It
affords good accommodations, but there is no place any-
where on the Saguenay or at its mouth where the trav-
eller can stop. * The Habitans although generally will-
ing to offer such accommodation as they possess, are too
dirty in their habits, and often too much beloved of
creeping things to suit American taste. So that as there
is little or no trout fishing at Riviere du Loup, the
angler must make his arrangements for a camp-life, and
would do well to descend the St. Lawrence in a pilot
boat, which he can hire with a man and boy for two
dollars a day, and stop at the mouths of all the streams
that debouche into it. The river is over twenty miles
wide, and he must look out for storms, as these boats
are open and by no means good sea boats. At night he
can go ashore, build a fire, put up his tent, and call into
requisition the numerous luxuries this mode of travelling
will enable him to carry.
* A fine hotel has been built at Tadousac.
58 SEA TROUT.
A steamboat ascends the Saguenay twice a week, and
he can either take it at Quebec or join it at Riviere du
Loup, and by this means enjoy a trip through the bold
scenery of that celebrated river, and can either return to
Riviere du Loup, or take a pilot boat at L'Anse a l'Eau.
There is a generous-hearted Englishman living at L'Anse
a l'Eau, but he has been compelled to refuse admission to
all strangers, as any infraction of that rule would have
led to his being overrun.
Many of the streams of Lower Canada are leased to
private individuals, and there are few good accessible
salmon streams open to the public, but the sea trout fish-
ing along the St. Lawrence and at the mouths of most
of the streams is free to all. In Nova Scotia and New
Brunswick, and at Prince Edward's Island, there is as
yet no restriction, and both salmon and trout are the
property of him who can catch them.* Nowhere, how-
ever, can any salmon fishing or good trout fishing be
had except by camping out. Canadian canoemen can
be obtained, if not required to furnish canoes, for sixty
cents a day, although the Indians, who are far superior,
command over a dollar, and where the angler is unac-
quainted with the water he is to fish, he had better take
the latter. They are, however, willful and exacting,
and sometimes stubborn and troublesome, while the
former are the best-natured fellows in the world, full of
fun, song and frolic, but often too fond of the liquor
case.
The best river of Lower Canada is the Mingan, but if
it is not already leased it soon will be. It can be reached
by steamer that leaves Quebec semi-weekly, stopping at
* License is now required for Ashing in the British Provinces anywhere.
SEA TROUT. 59
G-aspi, at Batliurst on the Bay de Chaleurs, which is near
Nipisiquit, the best river of New Brunswick, at several
places along the route, and finally at Shediac, whence
there is a communication with St. John or Halifax.
The steamer running at the time this is written is the
Arabian, and leaves Quebec every alternate Monday.
The Nipisiquit is within a few miles of Batliurst, where
there is good accommodation, and boatmen can be
obtained without difficulty, or the fisherman may con-
tinue his travels to Dalhonsie, at the mouth of the Resti-
gouche, and try either that or the Matapediac. Another
mode of reaching the fishing grounds, is to go to St.
John, and thence by steamboat to Fredericton, and
cross over by land to the Miramichi, at Boiestown, where
there is excellent trout and fair salmon fishing. A list
of the distances from Quebec, together with further
instructions, is given under the head of salmon fishing,
as the rivers we have mentioned are properly salmon
rivers.
The sea trout fishing is so fine, that many persons
prefer it to taking the larger salmon, and can be indulged
in almost anywhere along the shores of New Brunswick,
Nova Scotia, Prince Edward's Island, Newfoundland
and Lower Canada ; and were it not for the heavy fogs,
the Bay of St. Lawrence would be a favorite resort of
our adventurous yachtsmen. The Galway line of ocean
steamers now touches at Newfoundland, whose waters
abound with the finest fish.
The sea trout ascend to the head-waters of the Mira-
michi quite early, so that there are none of large size
to be caught in the lower section by the middle of
60 SEA TROUT.
July. In that river they average from two to five
pounds' weight. But the Tabasintac, a stream half-way
between Chatham and Batlmrst, is the most famou?
sea trout river of New Brunswick. I do not know of
any sea trout along the southern shore of New Bruns-
wick.
The scientific designation of this fish is not yet settled,
although the United States Fish Commission have given
it their attention, and it is to be dreaded that, numerous
as he still is, the sea-trout will have disappeared before we
know what to call him.
Canada and the Provinces have been immensely devel-
oped since much of the above was written; travel is
easier, pleasanter, quicker, and accommodations better.
But with this improvement have come fishing restrictions,
license fees, and government interference, which more
than counterbalance the advantages.
A. TRIP TO THE LA VAL. (ft
CHAPTEK IV.
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
A beautiful breeze was blowing down between the
grand old hills of the majestic Saguenay on that first
day of August when Walton* and myself started from
L ? Anse a l'Eau in one of the oddly-shaped pilot-boats of
the St. Lawrence, for a visit to the Bon Homme la
Yal. The Bon Homme la Yal, a beautiful and roman-
tic stream that falls into the St. Lawrence about sixty
miles below the Saguenay, tradition asserts was named
by the pious Canadians in the early days of the country
after a beloved father confessor. But time and the
English, equally utilitarian, have contracted it into sim-
ply La Yal, and the origin of the name, together with
the piety that suggested it, is almost forgotten by the
present generation. The sun was shining brilliantly, and
the strong northwest wind curled the waves of the
ancient river, and crested them with foam ; the dark
waters surged in their falling tide; the stunted trees
shivered in the blast; while the granite hills were as
immovable as they had been mid storm and calm for
many thousand years ; but the pretty little village was
all astir with our departure.
It is a fanciful place, with the white houses
perched in a nook between the whiter rocks, while the
* Hon. Wm. F. Whitcher, late Superintendent of Fisheries of the Dominion,
p.nd as skillful an angler as ever handled rod or wet a line.
62 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
graceful roofs and white- washed walls shining in the
sunlight, produces a picturesque effect. The few English
families residing there, and their many friends on visit to
them, made an agreeable society, drawn closer together
by its seclusion from the world at large ; and bright eyes
looked brighter when there were none others by.
The world of L'Anse a l'Eau was collected on the
wharf to witness our departure — the Canadians because
they had no better employment, the English that they
might bid us adieu. Our pilot-boat, called by the Cana-
dians chaloupe, an open boat some five-and-twenty feet
long by seven wide, was crammed full of our numerous
traps, plunder or baggage, as it would be variously
styled in different parts of our land of freedom. The
fishing rods, and one gun, devoted to the destruction of
bears for lack of smaller game, were carefully stowed ;
small barrels, at present filled with meat, but destined to
return filled with fish, lay side by side with baskets full
of more delicate provender ; tents, bedding and innumer-
able other articles occupied every inch of room. We
were experienced in woodsman life, and had no idea of
suffering the want of luxuries that could be easily car-
ried with us, and would never trouble us on our
return, unless they did it in spite of our teeth. There
were preserved soups, meats and fruits, sauces of many
kinds, tea and coffee, the latter ground and in bottles of
essence ; there were brown, white and maple sugars,
concentrated milk, flour, indian and oatmeal, barley, rice
and potatoes ; liquors of many kinds, and other things
too numerous to mention. For our protection from the
weather, we had two tents and waterproof cloth sufii-
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 63
cient for a make-shift, two indian-rubber blankets apiece^
one coated on the side the other in the middle, water-
proof suits, plenty of blankets, flannels, and warm
clothes ; and such other things as a gentleman ordinarily
carries on a journey. As a defence against the mosqui-
toes, black flies, sand flies, and other like torments of
Satan's invention, there were veils, the oil of tar, and a
mixture of glycerine, turpentine and spearmint. Above
our treasures were carefully stowed our two canoes,
bottom upmost. In a heavy sea they cannot be towed,
as they are apt to fill and tear to pieces.
Few persons know how beautiful and delicate a canoe
is. It is manufactured only by the Indian ; in that the
white man has never equalled him. The best is made
from a piece of white birch bark, stripped from the tree
in springtime, damped, and after being cut away to the
requisite extent, molded into the proper shape. The
inside is covered with gum, and a thinner piece of bark
fitted upon it, so that though the outer bark be torn, it
still does not leak. Over this are passed thin strips of
red cedar, lengthwise of the canoe, and crossing them at
every inch are ribs of the same wood. The gunwale is
formed of a stout stick of hickory or ash, laced to the
sides, and four strong but slender thwarts bind the whole
firmly together, and serve for seats or supports. Inferior
articles are made of but one thickness and of poorer
bark. The shape differs according as they are manufac-
tured by the Mountaineers or Micmacs, the two tribes of
this region, the former building a long, narrow and
graceful boat, easily capsized even for a canoe, and well
suited for travel in smooth water ; while the latter build
64 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
a broader and flatter boat, drawing little water and bet
ter suited for shoals and rapids. They are mostly
manufactured on the south side of the St. Lawrence,
birch-trees of the requisite size having almost disappeared
from the north shore. The bark is composed of innu-
merable layers, and is the only known substance that
would stand the rough contact with rocks that canoes
experience. A volume could be written on the wondrous
qualities of birch bark, the woodsman's invaluable trea-
sure ; to him it is a boat, a tent, a table, a plate, a cup, a
basket, a pail, a basin, a frying-pan, a tea-kettle, a candle,
a flambeau, a cooking oven, writing paper, kindling
wood, and almost all the other conveniences or necessa-
ries of life.
The chaloupe being loaded, a long farewell shouted
loudly that our spirits might not fail, and we turned our
backs on L'Anse a l'Eau, the pretty bay at the water-
side. The jib was set, and the grande voile, or foresail,
together with the tapecu, or jigger, while the mainsail,
called by the Canadians mizzin — for we were a three-
masted schooner — was brailed up, not only to give us
more room, but because the open boat was then under
all the sail she could stagger to. The French are a won-
derful people; strange and incomprehensible are the
sailing vessels they have produced ; but in Canada, aided
by the antiquated notions of the English, they surpass
themselves and manage to combine in their pilot-boats
all the defects of which either system is capable. "While
the rest of the world has discovered that the more sails a
small boat carries the slower she will go, they have care-
fully cut up what should have been one sail into four:
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 65
and whereas a pilot-boat is mainly wanted in rough
weather, and should be capable of living in any sea,
they have built them open, and any heavy wave breaking
aboard would swamp them in an instant.
But of all wonderful productions of the human mind
the jigger excels; a mast is stepped alongside the
stern-post, with a little spritsail hoisted on it ; a sta-
tionary boom, or out-rigged, is fastened in the stern and
projects aft into the water ; in the end of this boom an
augur hole is bored, through which is rove the sheet to
the jigger, and the sail trimmed down or eased off. By
this ingenious arrangement all possible disadvantages are
combined without one conceivable advantage. How-
ever, not to condemn unreasonably, there are conve-
niences in this singular rig. The bowsprit can be taken
out and used to shove off from rocks or a lee shore, and
as these vessels are never known to go to windward, that
is important ; the sprit of the jigger can be used to
boom out the mainsail when going wing and wing ; any
passenger, finding a sail incommodes him, can reach up
and wrap it round the mast, out of his way ; and in fact,
if he were to pull it down and put it in his pocket, no
one would miss it ; and finally, a Kentuckian might find
the mainmast useful, with a little whittling, as a tooth-
pick. It is also rather perplexing that the Canadians
should call the foresail the grande voile, which is the
proper name for the mainsail, and then call the mainsail
the mizzin, in pronouncing which they endeavor to cheat
the last syllable of its vowel ; whereas, the jigger, if any,
is entitled to be called the mizzen. Instead of having a
cabin, like Christians, they have amidships, for it is a
66 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
keel boat, what they call a hoite ; and sure enough it ia
a box, as long as the width of the boat, some seven feet,
about two and a half feet deep at the lowest part, and
rounding to the shape of the bottom, and three and a
half feet wide. Into that they crawl, and two men and
a boy have been known to sleep comfortably.
Such was the vessel that was destined to bear uS sixty
miles down the broad St. Lawrence, and was soon tear-
ing along under the fierce wind that crested every wave
with foam. Fortunately, our course lay along the wea-
ther shore, for our open cockle-shell would not have lived
a minute exposed to the full sweep of the blast and the
sea it must have raised on the other side of the river, or
even a few miles from shore. Once in a while, a little
dash of spray would come hissing on board, or fling itself
into our faces ; but as the wind was free, we could carry
on sail as long as she could keep above the waves, or
until she carried the masts out of her. Even that
ungainly vessel, driving on in the seething waters, car-
rying the canoes on her deck, and with her sails straining
in the blast, must have been more than picturesque.
On we tore, skirting the dreary, inhospitable coast past
the village of Tadousac, past the Moulinbaud, the Esco-
main, a river once famous for its salmon, but no longer
so ; past the Patte de Lievre, a rock of the shape of the
hare's foot, where many years ago the sea gave up its
dead, and a cross now stands to mark the grave of the
lost nameless one ; and the last puffs of the wearied
blast urged us quietly into the outlet of Sault de Cochon.
At the mouth of this river there is a steep fall, down
which once a hog hastily descended much against her
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 67
will; in her death covering herself with immortality
giving her name to the torrent that destroyed her.
Hastily launching one of the canoes, and rigging up our
rods, my companion and myself, eager for the fray, com-
menced tempting the innocent inhabitants of the deep
with delusive baits. Evidently Mr. Red Hackle was not
one of their intimate acquaintances, and they took to
him amazingly. The god of day was already declining
behind the western hills, and casting long shadows over
the now placid water, but the fish leaped at the fly in
innumerable numbers, giving us such sport as we at least
never enjoyed before. At almost every cast a trout,
varying in size from a quarter of a pound to two pounds
and a half, plunging out of water, seized the fly fear-
lessly in his mouth, while often two or three were on the
line at once. Large or small, they were most vigorous,
making fierce struggles and mad rushes to escape, their
silver sides glancing through the water, and their tails
lashing it into a foam. No dull, heavy, logy fish were
they, but active and lively, and excellent was the sport
they gave ; so that when our men, having improvised a
kitchen on the rocks, called to us that supper was ready,
we were loath to leave our sport. It was then eight
o'clock ; we had been fishing about three hours, and
over one hundred and twenty fish, averaging about half
a pound, were the net reward of our skill.
The scene, as we took our supper upon the end of an
old tumble-down dock, was peculiar. The light of the
fires, making the surrounding darkness the deeper, served
alone to illumine with lurid brightness the faces and fan-
tastic dresses of our men, while the roar of the cataract
68 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
shut out all other sounds. The chaloupe lay below us,
its outline just defined upon the dark water, while we,
seated upon a log, drank our tea and feasted right roy-
ally upon fresh trout and other comforts that civilization
had provided us.
Truly incomprehensible are the Habitans of Canada.
One of the few inhabitants being without any eatable thing
in the house, having scraped the flour barrel till he had
scraped off splinters of wood, and, except for our arrival,
without the prospect of a meal for the morrow, had
soothed his sorrows by inviting his neighbors to a ball.
Of course there was no supper ; but the music of one
fiddle, and the merry spirits of the Canadian girls made
up for the deficiency, and when we joined them, after
our tea, they all seemed as happy as though stomachs
never grew hungry or limbs tired. Being politely offered
the belles, we joined the festivities, our potables adding
to the merriment of the party, till, with the prospect
of a hard day's work on the morrow, we thought best to
retire to the dressing-room and camp upon the floor for
the night. Although the bed was hard, and our rest
somewhat disturbed by visions of beautiful creatures
arranging their hair and dresses by the light of a tallow
candle, before the looking-glass in our room, and at last
donning their hats for a final departure, we slept toler-
ably, and the early dawn saw us on our feet, preparing
for our departure.
While the men were carrying out our directions, in
anticipation of a long absence from civilization, the
attractions of the finny tribe were too seductive, and we,
yielding to their enticements, again cast our lines in plea-
a TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 09
sant places, and again, in about three hours, captured
over eighty of the speckled silver-sides. The largest
weighed two pounds and a half, and was the best fish
taken, thus far.
The barrels were arranged, the salt was purchased and
stowed, the canoes made fast, the sails set, and, blessed
by a still more favorable southwest wind, we got under
way for La Yal. Its mouth was only about one mile
distant, but we intended to ascend it as far as possible
with the chaloupe, on the rising tide, and were thankful
for the favoring wind. At its outlet lies an island of the
same name with the river, behind which stretches a
broad, rocky, shallow bay. We escaped by grazing
several rocks, and entered a sluggish, canal-like, dirty
river, as unlike the La Yal of a few miles above as any-
thing can be conceived, and ploughed our way through
crowding shoals of sardines, that rose so thick as to
tempt us to try to catch them with a scaj) net. But
where the rocks began to be visible as the water became
clearer, we drew the chaloupe to the shore, and anchor-
ing her stem and stern, loaded our canoes for the ascent
of the river. We took with us the essentials of our
camp life, intending to send back for the superfluities
after we had established a permanent camp ; the river
being too low, our canoes would not carry a heavy load.
Armed with iron-shod poles to shove up the rapids,
and paddles for the deeper pools, our Canadians took
their places and we commenced our ascent. My com-
panion was an expert canoeman, but for myself it was
my first real lesson in the unsteady little shells, and
6eated upon the bottom I awaited every moment a
70 a TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
sudden bath. Here the water was comparatively smooth,
and little was I prepared for the falls and rapids that
were ere long to steady my nerves for anything, and prove
what a canoe can do when it is well handled.
While our head guide, with the musical taste that is
inherent in the French nature, rang forth —
" Aimez-moi Nicolas,"
the paddles were being plied vigorously, and we shot
into the narrow cleft that forms the bed of the La Yal.
Straight up from the water's edge sprung the hills on
each side, their grey rocks scarcely half covered with
stunted spruce, pine and hemlock, and rarely leaving
margin enough for underwood to grow upon the bank.
The water, now limpid as crystal, poured down in an
ever increasing current, and here and there boiled
over a hidden rock. On we forced our way, a bald
eagle the only contestant for our sole occupancy of the
river, past the grey cliffs, the sombre trees, through dark
pools, up rapid currents, by banks of clay greyer than
the granite hills themselves. On, on, with steady exer-
tions, at every moment ascending toward the source of
the wild stream. The water became shoaler, the cur-
rents stronger, and the rapids more rocky as we ad-
vanced.
Poling up the rapids was strange indeed. Imagine a
torrent pouring, hissing and boiling down over rocks,
where the foam glistened and the spray danced into the
air, sweeping through narrow channels and leaping up
and curling over in crested waves ; imagine a light, fra-
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL 71
gile boat, that a man could lift with one hand, forced
against such a current, between or even over the rocks,
swayed about, swept hither and thither, and once in a
while caught broadside on, and, unless quickly righted,
carried to instant destruction. Imagine the excited
efforts, the quick directions of the steersman, or forward
boatman, whose care it is to head the canoe straight, to
choose at a glance the deepest channel, and to keep her
clear as possible from the rocks. " Arrete ! avance !
pousse I d droite ! a gauche /" with a thousand others,
come streaming forth as she touches, swings round, or
tries to take her own head. At times she stops entirely,
and by main force alone is she pushed over ; the rock
being distinctly felt as it bends the thin bark, that by
its elasticity gives to the pressure and springs to its place
the next instant. The men stand erect, exerting all their
strength, and handle their poles like a Paddy his shille-
lah, first on one side, then on the other, then in front
and then behind, the iron taking a firm hold of the slip-
pery rocks. Such was our ascent, and deeply interesting
it proved to me, although at first it seemed inevitable
that the foaming water most ingulf us all, and, destroy-
ing our provisions, leave us, if we escaped at all, ship-
wrecked mariners upon a desolate coast.
I was glad, therefore, at every opportunity to quit the
canoe, and clambering as fast as I could over the slip-
pery rocks, post myself ahead upon the point of some
batture or ledge of rocks, and cast the fly till the canoe
came toiling painfully along. Great was my success,
beautiful the dark pools, ever varying the limpid water.
The treacherous banks of clay, so slippery that it was
72 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
scarce possible to stand on them ; the dark pines casting
a gloomy shadow upon the water, the sombre depths
where the current had worn away a cavern for the
naiads of the watery realm, made together a picture
never to be forgotten. While the innumerable trout
were enough to gladden the heart of any true sportsman.
The day was passed and yet our journey not half
done; we halted for the night as "The shades of eve
came slowly down," and Walton joined me with his rod
while the tent was being pitched and the fire lighted.
Glorious was our sport; many a brave fish rose and
sunk, and rose to sink no more ; either in that region the
parent trout had not learned the infant song that in
civilized localities they are accustomed to teach their
children, or else the mothers did not know the latter
were out ; for certainly they were not aware of the con-
cealment of the cruel hook under the seeming insect.
They showed no fear and we no pity, till the call of
"supper" found us with over a hundred fish, averaging
a pound and a half.
In conscious innocence and happiness we retired ; the
fire was bright, the night was warm, the woods were
still, the sand was soft, but oh ! the sand flies. They
came down upon us more innumerable than the locusts
in Egypt, and if Pharaoh had only been tormented with
them, he would have given up in one night. I tossed
and turned and rolled about, hid my head under the
blanket, and covered it up with my handkerchief. All
to no use ; they would still find some means of entrance,
the little, invisible things ; and they bit till my face
seemed on fire. Their bite does not itch like a mosqui-
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 75
to's, but burns, and I never again shall despise a thing
because it is small. Compelled to surrender all hope of
sleep, I gathered the dying embers of the fire, and add-
ing fuel, drove away the pests, while, at the same time,
with infinite relish, I scorched our men, who, to my pre-
vious disgust, had been sleeping during my sufferings as
though they were in paradise.
By the earliest dawn I had waded into the river and
made the discovery that fish, unlike the proverbial birds,
will not take the fly too early. Just before the sunlight
tinged the mountain-tops, they, thinking to provide their
own breakfasts, provided me with mine, so that, when
the time came to leave off, I had taken twenty fish
weighing over forty pounds.
Immediately after the meal was over, We continued
our ascent as rapidly as possible, dreading another expe-
rience such as we had endured the previous night, and
hurried on to reach our regular camping-ground and
pitch a proper tent. On the way, I only had time to
catch fifteen, weighing thirty-seven pounds, the largest
being of three pounds and a half, and late in the after-
noon hailed with pleasure the information that at last
we had reached the spot that was to be to us for some
time our home. It was a beautiful location ; the stream,
by a sudden bend, forming a low, long point of land,
nearly level, which had been, by previous camping par-
ties, entirely denuded of underbrush and partly of trees.
In front, midway in the river, was a large flat rock,
beyond which, extending to the further shore, and just
fairly within casting distance, lay a deep, black pool.
A dead tree leaned over this rock from our side of the
4
74 a TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
river, forming a perilous swinging bridge by which one
could reach it dry-shod. Directly across a cool spring
brook entered the La Yal at a place where the shore was
a mass of overhanging underbrush. A pathway had
been cut through the woods by some previous salmon
fishers to the pools above and below ; and with the poles,
benches, boards and other insignificant but useful articles
left by our predecessors, our camping-ground combined
every requisite with many luxuries. At five o'clock
the tent w T as pitched, onr necessary part of the arrange-
ments, the head-work done, and "Walton and myself com-
menced fishing. We stood side by side upon the rock
already mentioned, and before dark had taken fifty-three
trout, weighing one hundred and twenty pounds. They
were most vigorous fish, and many a time did their con-
tinued runs almost exhaust our lines. "We had fished at
Sault de Cochon with three flies ; on ascending the river
had diminished them to two, and now the fish themselves
coolly reduced them to one. Almost invariably, if we
struck two fish at a time, no matter what pains we took,
one broke away with the hook. After a short time, we
did not pretend to use more than one, and then had to
take great pains in removing it from the mouth to avoid
its being destroyed, so tough were the lips and strong the
teeth of these noble fish. Indeed, it was soon effectually
proved that any fly with the hackle wound from the
shoulder to the bend was worthless, the first fish biting
away the hackle, which should have been only wound
close to the head. Heretofore the destruction of my fly
had been a minor consideration, but now I found that I
must look to myself, or, although provided with over
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 75
thirty dozen, there might be clanger of my falling short.
As it was, the fish destroyed in the course of my trip at
least ten dozen.
A delicious night's rest was the reward of our efforts
at arranging a proper camp, and in fact, henceforth
there was no trouble from flies, mosquitoes, or any insect,
except to a slight degree daring the day-time ; an annoy-
ance that a segar would effectually dispel. From a quarter
before seven to a quarter past eight next morning I alone
took twelve fish averaging over two pounds, and during
the day, while ascending the river for a short distance to
investigate what now became to us a serious question,
the depth of water, Walton and myself together caught
twelve, and in the afternoon twenty-eight more. In the
course of this day we established a rule to throw back
all fish weighing under two pounds, a rule we adhered
to till our last day in the river. The water proved to be
very low, and although at night we occasionally heard
the rush of a large fish up the rapids, the salmon had
passed above and were probably on their spawning
grounds, whither it now began to be very doubtful
whether we could follow them. It was late in the sea-
son, as we knew, for salmon, although we had come pre-
pared for them, and wished to catch at least a few.
We had picked up at Sault de Cochon, as a super-
numerary, a boy of about eighteen, who was one of the
most remarkable beings the sun ever shone upon. He
would sit for hours with his mouth open and his hands
before him, and, unless told, would hardly have sense to
eat enough to keep himself from starvation. After dark,
our men, with a hook and line and the entrails of a trout
76 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
for bait, caught some eels, and he, emulous of theii sue
cess, took the line after they had finished, and concluded
he would try his luck. Although he had been watching
their proceedings for an hour with the deepest interest,
he had no idea what they used for bait, and was forced
to inquire. They, with peals of laughter, suggested
alternately " a cup of tea, a bit of biscuit, a little ale,
a lump of sugar," and such other anomalous baits.
Although he at last succeeded in ascertaining from them
what they used, it was not to be supposed that he would
catch anything ; in fact, it is highly probable he fell
asleep over his rod and slept till morning.
The next day we prepared for a portage of five miles
to the Lake la Val, a pond of some two miles in length
by one in breadth, formed by the rivers spreading out
and filling a valley in the hills. Walton donned a heavy
basket, Joe, our chief canoeman, took the canoe, while
Francois, the lazy boy, carried a bundle of bedding.
We crossed the river, and striking directly into the
woods, followed an Indian trail that had probably been
there before this continent was discovered by Columbus.
The mode of carrying the canoe was truly original ; it
was reversed and mounted on Joe's shoulders, and his
head being entirely concealed, he steadied it by holding
to one of the cross pieces, and, at a distance, looked like
some strange animal with a huge trunk, supported by
two little legs. It was surprising how he managed it
through the trees and among the underbrush, and even
ascended places where we were compelled to give our
legs the aid of our hands, not, however, without strenu-
ous exertion, and the perspiration streamed from him
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 77
when, after accomplishing about a mile, he leaned it
upon a fallen log and slipped from beneath. Then the
warning my friend had so often given me never to -wet
the bottom of the canoe, because it augmented its weight
bo terribly, came forcibly to mind. Fortunately Francois
waked up, and having volunteered to carry the canoe
over the next stretch, and it being ascertained, to every
one's astonishment, that he knew how, proved himself
for the first time of any value, and shortened our jour-
ney considerably. During the portage we saw our first
game, a spruce grouse so tame that no efforts we made
could induce him to fly. He escaped death, primarily
because we had no gun, and secondarily because it was
out of season. At last, after a trying journey for our
men, we passed a deserted lumbermen's shanty, and
found ourselves upon the sandy shore of the lovely Lake
la Yal.
This beautiful sheet of water, lying amid high sterile
hills far from the abodes of man, has remained, and will
continue for centuries, unvisited except by the native
Indian or the adventurous sportsman. Romantic in its
location and appearance, it is remarkable for the num-
ber and apparently irreconcilable character of the fish
that inhabit its waters. While the voracious northern
pickerel and giant mascallonge inhabit the upper part,
and the fierce, greedy and powerful salmon have appro-
priated the outlet, shad or mullet and lake trout, both
comparatively inoffensive, dwell in the centre, and
doubtless prove an easy prey and grateful food to their
natural enemies on cither hand. Along the upper mar-
gin, weeds grow, and the bottom is in places soft and
78 a TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
muddy, while the residue of the shore and bottom is firm
white sand. The lake looked, in its broad expanse with
the sun dancing on its rippled surface, lovely to us
whose eyes had for a time been confined to a narrow
gorge or the blue sky above.
Hastily launching the canoe, we descended the outlet,
where the water poured over huge bowlders covered with
a long, weedy grass, the seeds of which had been washed
from the lake. Walton was standing in the bow of the
canoe, and shouted with delight, and waved his paddle
enthusiastically in air as salmon after salmon flashed up
through the water, and shot by, rapid as light. The
sight made our nerves tingle, but it was useless to try
for them ; the water was too clear, and they were dark
and long run from the sea. At one point he frantically
shouted to stop, and hastily explained that he had seen
five salmon and numerous large trout in one deep hole.
In vain, however, did we cast our flies, they had been
frightened, and probably rushed down the stream, for we
could not stir a fin. Descending a short distance fur-
ther, we halted for dinner, after which, taking advantage
of a resting spell, I waded back to the same spot.
The pool lay close beside a little island covered with
alders, and by crawling cautiously I kept out of sight,
and reaching the head of the island, cast carefully and
lightly round it into the pool. The line went out straight
the full length, the fly fell like a snow-flake on the
water, there was an angry rush, a mighty splash, a quick
taughtening of the line, and an enormous fish was
fastened to my frail tackle. In his astonishment lie
fortunately darted up stream, and by skillful manage-
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 79
ment was led round into the other channel, where, after
many a struggle and desperate effort to escape, baffled
only by prudence and care exerted through a long but
exciting half hour, I landed him by walking into the
water waist deep, and slipping the net under him. As
for leading him to shore, my rod, already bent double
would not bear the strain. He was a dark-backed,
yellow-sided river fish, and weighed four pounds and a
quarter. He was our champion prize, and remained so
to the end. The water not having been disturbed, I
made another cast, and was rewarded by another fish
that weighed four pounds. A brace of beauties, fit to set
before a king. The second one, however, so fought and
flounced, and kicked and slapped about in the pool, in
spite of all my persuasive efforts to induce him to leave
it, that the rest grew suspicious, and refused the most
seductive baits. My friend looked the least little bit
envious when I rejoined him, and mentioned his having
previously taken a sea trout at the Mingan that weighed
nine pounds. I smiled, of course respectfully. We
returned to the lake, having taken in all fifteen fish
averaging three pounds, and leaving the canoe on the
beach, wended our way through the w r oods back to our
sylvan home, where Pierre received us with a redoubtable
supper. Insatiable, however, I that evening took eight,
and next morning three, from our preserve, as we called
the pool in front of the tent.
As we intended to return to the lake, and might per-
haps spear a pickerel, Joe made an egog, which appears
to be the Indian name for fish-spear, the Canadians
having not only adopted the word, but coined from it a
80 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
French verb, egogger, to spear. Armed with it, and
provided with make-shift tenting materials, we has-
tened to the lake, and launching our canoe, tried its
virtues upon the pickerel. The latter, however, were so
scarce, that we rigged up the more effectual spinning
tackle, and took a pickerel and a mascallonge of about
twelve pounds each, and struck another of the latter
very large, weighing, as well as could be guessed, from
his passing close to the boat, about forty pounds. That
night, provided with flambeaux, we went out for the
purpose of again trying to spear pickerel ; but, passing
by the outlet of the pond, were so attracted by the
numerous salmon, we could get no further.
It was a romantic sight; the canoe, lit up by the
blazing flambeau, that was fastened, high above our heads,
to a pole fixed in the bow, and by its glare made the
surrounding darkness the more impenetrable ; the silence
of the night was unbroken, except by the dip of the
paddle; and calmness of the water unruffled, through
which the bewildered salmon lazily floated, following us
about, coming so close that we could touch them with
our hands, and occasionally jumping frantically into the
air, utterly out of their wits and at the mercy of any
poacher. Walton was excited, myself enthusiastic, but
Joe was frantic; " Egoggez done! egoggez done!" lie
shouted, wildly pushing at the fish with his paddle, and
almost ready to jump out of the boat. My friend held
the spear in hand — he was a splendid spearsman, and
could have filled the boat with salmon ; but it was ille-
gal as well as dishonorable to catch them in that manner
— he wavered but a moment, and then with a sigh lay
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 81
jown the spear and took up his paddle, the greatest
example of self-command and honest sportsmanship I
ever knew. General Washington, when he refused to be
king, was no greater. My friend was not rewarded if he
did not sleep happier for it that night in the old cabin on
the shore of Lake la Yal ; and if the falling pipe of the
rotting stove that nearly crushed his head had killed
him, he would have died virtuous, respected and without
reproach.
Oh, that I had the pen of Julius Ceesar, Homer,
Shakspeare, or even Byron, that I might write an ode
to sapin, the balsam fir-tree ! Tree of the weary woods-
man, tree of the luxurious sportsman, tree of all men
whom the drowsy god catches in the woods and compels
to his embraces ! A bed of thy leaves is softer than one
of eider-down, and far more comfortable. A prince
might sleep on thee and dream he was in paradise.
Thou preservest us from colds, from rheumatism, and the
many ills that flow from the evil humors of the cold
ground. Thy leaves, growing in one direction from the
stem, will lie flat, and may be piled to any depth— a foot
of luxury, as in our permanent camp — and make a couch
that combines the softness of the feather-bed with the
firmness of the mattress, and an elasticity purely thy
own. To thee, and to thy mate the hemlock, and thy
associate the white birch, I now, far from thee, waft, in
a cloud of tobacco-smoke, my love. Go on, increase and
wax great ; may often the one support me on the land,
the other on the water !
When the next morning's sun had once more brought
round my birthday, the thirty-first that had ever dawned,
4*
82 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
we commemorated the fact by undertaking to descend
the La Yal from the outlet to our home ; a roundabout
journey of some fifteen miles, in lieu of the portage of
five. It was to be a final test of the depth of the water,
as the course lay over bad rapids and falls, and we
entered upon the journey with great uncertainty. Pack-
ing our temporary bedding in a water-proof blanket, our
party embarked and sped gaily along for the first mile
or two, but soon found the bed of the stream one mass
of huge rocks, over which the canoe had to be driven
with sheer force, and which tore and strained the fragile
bark till it leaked terribly.
During this day our progress was necessarily slow
and laborious, and to relieve ourselves we fished continu-
ally. The trout rose beautifully — in fact, in one pool
they were so thick, sweeping round in shoals, that we
grew surfeited, and left it for a spot where they were
less plenty. Still it required a long line and light fly to
cull the largest — which were the ones we sought — and
skill and patience to land them. We might have taken
hundreds had the time permitted, or our canoe been in
condition to carry them ; but every strain had increased
the leak till we could no longer keep it down by bailing,
and had to land from time to time to turn the water out.
In fact, it was a wet time altogether ; there was a driz-
zling rain, the canoe was three inches deep with water,
we had both been wading part of the day, and had so
arranged our water-proof blanket that it projected be-
yond the temporary tent, and catching all the water that
drained off, would not permit it to soak through, but
collected a miniature Lake la Yal in the middle of our
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. $%
bed. I being the heaviest, had the most of it ; but by
the aid of a blazing tire, I slept warm and comfortable
till the morning air struck me, when the time came to
rise, and sent a shiver to my very bones, giving me at
first horrible visions of consumption, night-sweats and
early death. Our tally of fish taken during the day
amounted to fifty-three, weighing nearly two hundred
pounds, and I had captured the greatest weight as yet
taken at one cast, landing two fish, one of which weighed
two and the other three pounds and a half. A handsome
present the river gods made me for my birthday !
The next day, after an hour had been spent in vainly
trying to attract the salmon, our journey was continued
to the camp, the river as we descended proving worse,
the rocks higher, the rapids fiercer, the water lower,
our canoe frailer, till it came almost to dragging the
latter over the bed of a current instead of floating com-
fortably along its surface. All hope of ascending to the
head-waters was extinct, the rapids above the lake we
knew must be worse than those below, and the latter
were totally impassable for a loaded canoe. In our
despair, we fished steadily at every breathing spell, and
might have taken unlimited numbers, for they rose
gloriously.
While walking unconsciously along, separated from
my companions, I was fairly startled at observing what
at first glance seemed to be a female figure seated on the
opposite side of the stream beneath the bank. The
impression was only dissipated by a close inspection.
The rains had scooped out of the bank a dark niche, the
edges of which were ornamented with vines and moss
84 A TRIP TO THE LA. VAL.
and in it was seated a figure of clay, worn to an aston-
ishing likeness of a woman with a gipsy bonnet on her
head. She appeared to be seated, and her bonnet, its
strings and her dress, were accurately imitated by the
curling white birch bark. The color of her face seemed
dark brunette, set off by the birch bonnet, that was
brought out in strong relief by the heavy shadow of the
background. Altogether, it was a startling apparition,
and conjured np to my eyes the wondrons sights of the
times of elfin power, when my spectre would have made
a most perfect wood nymph.
"Whether my elf gave me good luck or not, it is impos-
sible to say, but we caught thirty-seven magnificent fish,
and after a hard day's work, during which we had toiled
at the canoe and waded most of the way, the camp was
no unwelcome sight. It required Pierre's best culinary
efforts to restore our spirits, and soothe our disappoint-
ment at being unable to effect a further ascent, in which
our worst forebodings were confirmed by Jermain, an
additional guide who had followed us, and who reported
from his Indian friends that the upper stream was impass-
able, the water being a foot lower than was ever known
before. With sad hearts, therefore, the council of war
determined that advance was hopeless, and retreat ine-
vitable; even our splendid sport could not console us.
It had been drizzling all day, and the next morning
we devoted to a general drying of wet articles — the
camp looked like a grand clothes washing establishment,
with lines stretched from tree to tree round a bis* fire,
and hung with clothes. I took some seven trout for
dinner, but otherwise the fish had a rest until the mor
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 85
row, which was to be our last on the river, when we cap-
tured twenty-eight, a few of which, however, did not
exceed a pound and a half in weight.
The next day came, and good bye to the beautiful La
Yal. Slowly and sorrowfully we struck our tent, sadly
we collected together, and stowed the many little arti-
cles that the occasion had hallowed to our hearts. With
feelings of deep regret we embarked, and looking our
last look at the camping-ground that had been our home,
commenced a descent to our chaloupe. As there were
three canoes, and only five canoemen, including my
friend, I was gladly compelled to take the bow of one
and act as steersman. Of course my experience was
limited, for, with the exception of having once upset
"Walton to his intense disgust, I had taken little active
part in canoe management, and having for my stern-oar,
Joe, whose only idea was to push ahead under all cir-
cumstances, we performed manoeuvres that astonished
more than they delighted our associates. Ours was the
leaky canoe that had been patched up with gum and a
piece of a shirt for the occasion, and being utterly reck-
less of it, we shot down rapids and leaped over rocks
like a runaway race-horse. Wonderful were our hair
breadth escapes; the rapid water, Joe with his "Avarices
toujours" gave me no time to see and less to avoid the
half-hidden dangers, even if my skill had been equal to
the task, and we darted along amid the foaming current,
or plunged headlong down cataracts, at a rate and in a
manner that would have surprised a locomotive off the
track. We succeeded, however, in keeping straight with
the current, and although once or twice our destruction
S6 A TRIP TO THE LA VAL.
seemed inevitable, we finally arrived safe, though in a
leaky and dilapidated condition, at the place where we had
anchored our chaloupe. The latter, left to herself, had
been trying what she could do on the rocks, and had
succeeded, with the aid of a falling tide, in upsetting
twice, and so frightening the boy in charge of her that
he had fled for refuge to a shanty, which providentially
was near at hand.
Joe had taken the opportunity during our last day's
fishing, on hearing of the misfortunes of his boat, to
remove her to the Sault de Cochon, so that we had to
paddle about two miles in the open St. Lawrence. The
river was over twenty miles broad, and, under the influence
of a southwesterly wind, was so rough that our un-
steady bark danced, tossed and rolled about uncommonly.
I could no longer stand up, as I had been forced to do
hitherto, and was brought to my knees at once, while
even Joe found it safer to sit down on the thwart. No
one who has not tried it can imagine what a canoe is in
the slightest sea-way ; it appears to bob from under you,
and rolls and dances so quickly as to render staying in
it almost impossible, even if it should not carry out its
evident design to turn bottom up. Once at Sault de
Cochon and I again tried the fish, having taken, on the
descent of the La Yal, twelve, and was rewarded as I
deserved, by total failure.
The wind had died out, the water lay a perfect mirror,
and, crowding down into the narrow cock-pit, we slept
till two o'clock in the morning, when a favoring tide
helped us slowly along toward our destination. The
night passed, and the next day, and we drifted by place
A TRIP TO THE LA VAL. 87
after place that we passed before with such rapidity, and
sunset again found us only thirty-three miles on our way.
We ran into a little bay at the mouth of the Escomain,
where, having built a huge fire and eaten a hearty sup-
per, we slept, on a bed of the softest pebble stones,
soundly and sweetly till the first grey light of daybreak,
when we continued our journey along a coast so poor
that the best fed hogs are, as we were credibly informed,
light and weak enough to be blown over by a strong
wind, and mill-stones, to say nothing of the miller,
starve for want of grain.
Again the hills of the Saguenay rise to our view,
Tadousac rests calmly in its nook, and the sun shines on
the white houses of L'Anse a l'Eau as when we left.
Our trip is done. The La Yal will live in our memory
as long as we can cast a fly — aye, and when gout or age
shall have laid us on the shelf. To you, my friend, the
genial companion of my trip, I give my thanks ; may we
meet again, and once more stand side by side upon some
projecting rock, as fish after fish rises to our fly. May
you long live to enjoy the sport at which you so excel,
and may you leave children that can cast a fly as well.
To the stately St. Lawrence, to the magnificent Sague-
nay, to the beautiful La Yal, a long farewell.
£8 THE SALMON.
CHAPTEK Y.
THE SALMON.
Salmo Salar. — This celebrated fish is totally different
in appearance from the trout, having decidedly brilliant
scales, colored bluish black down to the lateral line, and
beautiful and white as glistening silver below. It has
on the gill-covers and upper part of the sides occasion-
ally dark irregular spots. The tail is more forked, and
proportionally more expanded than that of the trout,
while the fish is of a more slim and elegant shape.
The branchial rays are twelve, and the fin-rays are as
follows :
D. 13.0 ; P. 15 ; Y. 9 ; A. 9 . C. 19f .
These splendid and valuable fish, whether regarded as
an object of the sportsman's skill or the epicurean's
taste, though once abundant in our State, are so no more.
Hendrick Hudson, on ascending the river he discovered, 1
was particularly struck with their immense numbers,
and continually mentions the " great stores of salmon."
The last unhappy fish that was seen in the Hudson had
his adventurous career terminated by the net, near
Troy, in the year 1810. The rivers flowing into Lake
Ontario abounded with them even until a recent period,
but the persistent efforts at their extinction have at last
prevailed, and except a few stragglers they have ceased
THE SALMON. 89
from out our waters. The willful, stupid obstinacy in
building dams without fish ways, in crowding the rivers
with nets, and neglecting all measures for theb protec-
tion, have annihilated the noblest of game fish. They
are now only to be found in Maine, and to the north-
ward of it. The rivers of Maine are no longer worth
the angler's attention, and if he would have good sport
he must proceed to the wilds of New Brunswick or
Lower Canada.
In the wild woods of those famed regions they
abound, and there, amid the solitude of nature, in its pri
meval grandeur, the writer has cast the fly over thou-
sands, has lured hundreds from their hidden depths, and
seen myriads moving about in their romantic pools, 01
darting away when disturbed ; has waited, casting
patiently, for their appearance ; has felt the vigor of
their first rush ; has seen them leap, maddened, high out
of water ; has experienced all the variations of hope,
the exultation of success, and, alas ! the agony of fail-
ure. He has known them to dart away resistlessly down
some impassable rapid, and leap for joy as they broke
his frail tackle, and he has seen them panting with the
gaff in their sides and the dark blood streaming over their
resplendent scales, as his quick-eyed assistant had secured
them at the moment the hook was tearing out. Aye, he
once had the good luck of having one that was thrown
out of water by the blow, the hook tearing out at the
same time, caught on the gaff ere he fell back into the
watery grave of hope.
The glorious sport ! Ye del vers after the ore of gold,
hidden as it seems to be in boxes of silk or bales of cot-
90 THE SALMON.
ton, in bits of paper or leaves of ledgers ; ye wearv
crawlers through the streets of mammon, who think the
world is bounded by the four walls of your ambition ;
ye who have been brought up to work, as though work
were the aim of life instead of the means of its improve-
ment ; ye who have laid up a few hundred for some pet
dissipation, a visit to Saratoga or Newport, or a light
with the tiger — that man-eater — and ye who must watch
every day over your accumulated millions, lest a penny
slip into a cranny and be lost, go to the woods, where
you will be surrounded by the sombre trees, where the
rocks will be your companions and the wind whisper
and the stream prattle to you. There you will learn
how little it takes to render man comfortable and happy,
how but for his reckless passions and extravagant desires
all might be satisfied and plenty crown the human race.
There, where nature speaks to you in her beauty, in her
grandeur, and occasionally in her stupendous power ;
where the wonders of the universe by day and night are
ever present, like old friends ; where there is naught but
the thin air between the Maker and his beings, you may
learn what will be more valuable some day than any
treasure of gold or silver. Breathe the pure air, shake
off every ill that flesh is heir to ; acid to your life, if you
love it so well, a week for each day, and that a day of
never wearying enjoyment. Take rod and gun, aspire
to cast the line far and straight and light, feel the strug-
gle of patience, perseverance, skill, resolution, with brute
strength and cunning ; know the pleasurable anxiety of
the chase, the alternate hope and fear, and the final
glory of success. Learn the woodsman's art, the " gentle
THE SALMON. £|
«raft cf venerie," and wonder at the resources of the
wilderness, and on jour return thank me not, if you can.
But that you may do it well, read the following prosy
instructions carefully, for if they be not entertaining
they be useful.
The rod for salmon fishing should be from sixteen to
twenty feet long ; one of sixteen, or even fifteen, if well
made and elastic, will answer. It must be strong and
stiff, but not too heavy, and the further it will cast the
greater will be the success. Salmon are more wary than
trout ; if they see a horrible, ill-shapen being, like man,
lashing at them with a long whip, they lie close to the
bottom, and it is only by keeping well out of sight, and
never disturbing or approaching the pool, that they can
be tempted. A short rod, though it may be capable of
casting the requisite distance, will not give sufficient
command nor enable the angler to lift the fly with
facility.
The fly must be cast straight, light, and as far as pos-
sible ; it must be put exactly upon the right ripple, and
must fall like a snow-flake ; it should, if the water
is still, be allowed to sink a few inches and then drawn
up to and along the surface a foot or so, again allowed to
sink, and so on till it is raised for another cast. It is not
moved as rapidly, nor with precisely the same tremulous
motion as in trout fishing. Often a long time passes
before a fish, no matter how plenty they may be, will
rise ; and when he does come, it is as often to play with
and slap at the fly as to take it. Nothing is more pro-
vokingly exciting than to have a magnificent fish rush
again and again at your fly, leap over and around it,
92 THE SALMON
break near it or strike at it with his tail, without, hoiv
ever, showing the slightest desire to take it in his mouth.
A fish hooked foul, though he gives a great deal of
trouble, and often breaks the tackle, does not afford half
the legitimate sport of one that has the hook in the
mouth.
When fish are playing thus, and it is fully determined
that they will not take the allurement presented them,
no matter how attractive, it becomes necessary to substi-
tute another, and continue so doing till their dainty pal-
ates are satisfied.
"When they finally take hold, have a care for their first
rush ; the pain, if pain they feel, or astonishment, drives
them wild, and they dash and fling themselves about,
leap out of water, and carry on generally in a manner to
surprise weak nerves. Finding their efforts to escape
vain, they will dart down the nearest rapids, and here
they must be followed if the water is too shallow for the
canoe, by the angler, with the agility of the antelope.
He must have feet, hands, and eyes for everything. The
fish must be guided through the safest current, the line
kept clear of rocks, while the angler must pursue his
course through pools and over ledges and bowlders, slip-
pery with the water, and requiring the sureness of foot
of the chamois. On, on he must go, regardless of falls
or bruises, his reel making sweet music to the uncoiling
line, keeping within sight of his prey till the latter
reaches the next pool or resting-place. After an hour's
struggle in this, he may take down another rapid in the
same vigorous style. In these descents the angler will
find his gaff, if shod with iron, a great convenience in
THE SALMON. 93
steadying his steps, and heavy shoes with iron nails
will in a measure prevent his slipping and will obviate
stone bruises, although they are apt to break the
delicate knees of the canoe, and should be removed
before getting into one, and moccasins or slippers sub-
stituted. There is a well authenticated story of one fish
that was struck at six o'clock in the evening, followed
down through three rapids, and finally lost at half-past
ten o'clock that evening.
Salmon will sulk, remaining motionless at the bottom
for a long time after they are wearied with an unsuc-
cessful struggle, and must be aroused with pebbles, bear-
ing on the line, or in some other way. Many of the
pools in the Canadian waters have been worn out of clay
banks, and their sides under water are often perpendicu-
lar or overhanging. When the fish sulks in one of these,
the line cuts into the edge of this bank, and is of course
broken to pieces by the first rush.
Gentleness will do much with fish, as with other rea-
sonable beings, and a friend of mine saved a number in
a pool above an impassable rapid, where other anglers
had pronounced fishing impracticable, by striking and
handling the fish with extreme delicacy till they were
led to the head of the pool away from the dangerous
neighborhood.
There is no superlative salmon line made ; the best,
probably, plaited silk, tapered and covered with a prepa-
ration to exclude the water ; but that in general use is
of hair and silk plaited or twisted — a combination that,
as we elsewhere remark, is by no means advantageous ;
a plain hair line is preferred by careful anglers, and sim-
94 THE SALMON.
pie silk will answer. The leader should be of single gut,
if round and strong, and may be colored in tea. Double
gut will break the rod but not save the fish. The flies,
contrary to the received opinion in Europe, should be
dark, especially clarets and browns, above all the impal-
pable "fiery brown," and of rather a small size, with a
few larger for rough water. The reel should be large
enough to carry two hundred yards of line, although
with activity and a hundred an angler may make out.
As for the number of fish, even in the best streams,
those who read Lanmann must receive his statements
with, to use a moderate term, some allowance. Ten or
twelve fish in the course of a day is excellent luck, and
will keep the angler sufficiently occupied and excited,
but the average good fishing through the season is not
half that number, and there are many blank days. The
upper shore of the St. Lawrence furnishes the largest
fish, but New Brunswick the most abundant. The rivers
in the former are mostly leased to individuals by the
government, and of course closed to the public except
by the consent of the lessees. That famous association
called the Hudson's Bay Company, a kingdom within a
kingdom, until a few years ago, were sole proprietors of
fishing rights, but having taken pains worthy of our
emulation to destroy the fish, the government curtailed
their privileges, and passed stringent laws and regula-
tions, which are set out in the appendix, for the preserva-
tion of the fish.
The rivers of New Brunswick are still free.* The
fly-fishing in Canada lasts till the first day of Sep-
tember, and in New Brunswick till the fifteenth ; but
* This is changed. There is no free salmon fishing in the Provinces.
THE SALMON. 95
the net fishing terminates earlier, and in Canada all
spearing or fishing by torchlight is stringently forbidden.
These laws are, strange as it may seem to ns, enforced
with commendable energy in Canada, though in New
Brunswick our mode of letting the people override the
laws prevails.
The best river in New Brunswick beyond all com-
parison, is the Nipisiquit, emptying in the Bay of Cha-
leurs, and near it are several almost as prolific* In
Lower Canada the Mingan, the Moisie, the Busamite
stand preeminent, but have many rivals. Directions foi
reaching them have been given under the head cf sea
trout fishing, but instead of taking a sail-boat, as there
suggested, from any port on the river St. Lawrence, the
same might be clone either from Bathurst or Prince
Edward's Island, both of which are nearer the lower
streams.
There are many excellent rivers on the coast of Labra-
dor as far as the Straits of Belie Isle, or even farther, and
they would be well worth a visit, either in one of our
clipper yachts or in a fast schooner. Many are entirely
beyond the realms of civilization, and a pleasant party
night have a glorious time and abundant sport.
It would be necessary to take canoemen and canoes,
or what is strongly recommended, small, light fiat-boatf.
that can be rowed or poled by one man, and which can
be purchased for five dollars apiece at most of the gulf
seaports.
Arm yourself, then, with two good salmon rods ; they
may be so made us to constitute a trout rod as well, not
by any means one of those detestable nondescripts called
* The best river now is the Restigouche.
96 THE SALMON.
a general rod, but two rods distinct with joints fitting to
each other. Take with you two good lines, plenty 01
flies, extra gut and hooks, leaders and feathers, and a
strong hook gaff, but not that dangerous, unwieldy
instrument called a spring gaff. Thus equipped, go forth
conquering and to conquer, and may good luck attend
you. Seek any of the rivers we shall name, ascend
them in your fragile canoe, station yourself early in the
morning or at the approach of evening, choose your best
fly, keep well out of view, cast far and light, and may
you many and many a time be rewarded with the fierce
rush of the mighty salmon, his struggle and final con-
quest, and may your sleep be sound and your heart at
rest amid nature's primeval hills. May the black flies
and mosquitoes spare you. may the sand-fly not find you
out, may the heat be tempered to you by day and the
cold by night, may you not lose your footing too often,
nor fall too hard, and may your fish be the largest,
strongest and bravest that ever were taken. May you
receive that mercy which you show, never drawing one
drop of useless blood, nor causing one unnecessary pang.
The aid of all good men and true is needed both by
precept and example, to save the tenants of the water
from final extermination. By putting restraint upon
ourselves, never being guilty of wanton slaughter, by
steadily urging measures for the preservation of the
game, and by invariably obeying and compelling others
to obey such laws as should be passed, we may be able to
leave to our children a heritage of pleasure that bountiful
nature has abundantly provided for ourselves. No fish
are more defenceless and more readily destroyed than
THE SALMON. ' 97
trout and salmon ; there are certain prerequisites to the
continuance of the species that must be complied with.
The fish must ascend to the fresh water to spawn, and if
prevented by an improperly constructed dam, will quit
the locality never to return.
It should be known that, contrary to the usually
received opinion, salmon cannot surmount a fall of much
over ten feet ; this, probably, is the full extent of their
powers. And in effecting this, much depends upon the
depth of water at its foot ; the deeper it is the higher
they can leap. They do not take their tails in their
mouths, according to the ancient theory, to enable them
to spring higher, but rush with their utmost velocity
from the bottom, and are carried by their momentum a
considerable distance out of water. Such a leap or a
struggle against strong rapids weakens them, and they
must soon rest to recover strength for another ascent.
They thus congregate below each fall, and often make
many efforts before they overcome it. They usually
move at night or early in the morning. A dam of fif-
teen or twenty feet will effectually exclude them from
any stream, but may be rendered innocuous at small
expense by placing below the wasteway boxes of heavy
wood, with a fall of not over iive feet from one to the
other. A salmon leaps from the river to the first, from
that to the next, and so on till he has overcome the
barrier. A broad sluiceway leading at a moderate
*ngle to the pool below, will probably answer as well.*
The fish, as they enter the rivers, may be deterred
_rom entering, or all captured in nets spread entirely
across the mouth, and when those that do pass have
* See Post as to modern fishways.
98 THE SALftl(A>.
reached the spawning beds, they are peculiarly exposed
to the cruel spear. At night, by this instrument, with
the aid of flambeaux, hundreds may be killed and many
more wounded and left to perish miserably. If they are
to continue in reasonable numbers, nets must not be set
close together, the spawning beds must be undisturbed,
and the murderous spear utterly prohibited. "With
these precautions and a regulation concerning the sized
mesh that is used, this valuable source of pleasure, health
and profit may not only be retained but indefinitely
augmented; without such care the day is not far off
when " the places that knew them will know them no
more," when their bright sides will no longer gleam
beneath the waves or glisten as they gambol in the sun-
light, when the nets will cease to yield a return, when
the fishermen, longing regretfully for their most valuable
prize, will find their occupation gone, and honest and
dishonest, fair fisherman and sneaking poacher, alike be
overwhelmed in one common ruin. Surely we have too
much good sense, too much public spirit, too much
energy and determination to submit to such a calamity ;
let us unite, then, in repressing unseasonable and unlaw-
ful fishing, in preserving and protecting the fish, and in
restoring rivers that have been exhausted.
In the salt water, salmon never take the fly, and rarely
bait of any kind, although they feed on sand eels and
small fish in addition to shell-fish ; but as they advance
into brackish or fresh water, they either miss their natu-
ral food and become hungry, or get accustomed (o feed-
ing on grasshoppers and insects, and are deceived hy the
artificial fly, and will at times take the bait.
THE SALMON. 99
When they leave the salt water, the sea-lice that have
fastened to them fall off, frequently to be replaced by
fresh-water parasites, and this is sometimes given as the
reason for their leaving the sea so early in the year,
although they do not spawn till the Fall. "While spawn-
ing they are unfit to eat, and after the operation are
utterly exhausted. In this condition, when returning to
the sea, they are termed kelts, the male being distin-
guished as a kipper and the female as a baggit. As the
spawning season approaches, a curious cartilaginous
hook grows from the lower jaw, which is supposed to be
a provision of nature to prevent an unfortunate termina-
tion to the many desperate contests between the males
at that period.
The habits of salmon are by no means determined ;
in fact, little is known positively about them. It has
been even suggested that grilse are a distinct species,
although it is hardly doubted with us but they are young
salmon. Their times of visiting the fresh water are
subject to peculiar individual exceptions; in fact, it may
be said there are two opinions among fishermen, and
persons who have watched salmon for twenty and thirty
years assert that some are ascending while others are
descending. Izaak Walton says that salmon spawn in
August, which is directly contrary to the views of other
English writers, and certainly not in accordance with the
practice of our fish. Others again say they return to
the salt water in September, and reascend the rivers
later in the Fall. The young in all stages have been
disputed over, and called by divers names, such as pinks,
smolts, parr, brandling, samlet, peal, grilse, until one
100 THE SALMON.
hardly knows what sort of fish he really has captured.
Every writer has his theory, and the following is mine ;
it may be true or not, but the statements of fact are.
Salmon are never found in our rivers except in three
stages : First, a little fish much like a trout, but with a
larger eje and richer colors ; they have no blue spots, but
have darker bands on their sides ; they weigh from half
an ounce to half a pound. Second, the grilse, which is
precisely like a salmon, except that it weighs from two
and a half to six pounds. Third, the salmon, which
weighs from eight to eighty pounds. Salmon first appear
in the fresh water about the 10th of June, and grilse a
month later. The main run of the former is from June
15th to August 1 5th in New Brunswick, and from June
10th to July 20th in Canada. The explanation of this
difference is simple : the Canadian fish are much the
largest, averaging double the size of their more southern
brethren, and as the waters fall during the hot months
of Summer, they must ascend earlier than smaller fish,
and before the spring freshets have entirely subsided, or
they would never reach the high waters at all. Strag-
gling fish, however, are running up at all seasons, early
and late, and a few probably remain in the fresh water
the entire year, or descend only when they are sickened
by a lengthened residence in an unchanged element.
Salmon do not spawn in Summer, but in Winter, com-
mencing not earlier, and often later, than October ; the
fish that ascend last probably spawn last. Then they
return to the sea ; but not at once, some remaining under
the ice through the "Winter, others going immediately.
My theory, therefore, is that the young fish , whether you
THE SALMON. 101
call them fry, or pinks, or smolts, or peal, go to the sea
usually a year after their birth, but with no invariable
regularity, and will then average six ounces in weight,
many undoubtedly waiting till the Fall, or eighteen
months after birth; that they return the succeeding
July grilse;* that the grilse spawn the following Novem-
ber, and after visiting the sea, reappear next Spring as
salmon. The young fish are taken with the fly through
the Summer in all the salmon rivers, and require a second
glance to distinguish them from young trout, although
they are very different, one decisive peculiarity being
that their backs are arched or hogged, and another, as I
have mentioned, that their eyes are large. The fry of
trout — and recollect grown trout are not banded — have
light sides, and are found usually in more quiet water.
It would be well if sportsmen should call the fish in
question respectively salmon fry, grilse, and salmon, and
eschew all other fanciful names, as leading only to con-
fusion.
Salmon are never taken in fresh water with any food
in their stomachs ; they are reported not to eat their
young, and do not apparently feed on flies. The fry
feed almost entirely on flies, and I have seen them pick
off one after another as skillfully as a trout ; but I have
never distinctly seen a salmon take a natural fly. When
they spring out of water, it is in play, and at such times,
contrary to the rule with trout, casting over them will
be in vain, they will not rise. Moreover, our flies do not
in the least resemble the natural flies of the rivers, which
are of a dull green, and the salmon rivers afford very
few flies at best. Observe me, I do not refer to mosqui-
* Probably at least a year later Iban this.
102 THE SALMON.
toes or black gnats, at neither of which would gentle-
manly fish deign to look. My theory, therefore, is, that
salmon do not feed during the spawning season, but are
supported by the animalculse in the water, and have poor
commons at that, as their miserable condition soon testi-
fies. Many varieties of fish live without apparent food,
often with the additional disadvantage of infrequent
change of water, as goldfish in a globe.
When salmon first arrive in the harbors, they coast
along the shore, and are then taken in nets, which are
required by law to have a mesh too large to capture
grilse ; later, they leave the warm shallows, and follow
the cooler channel beyond the nets, which are only per-
mitted to extend a certain distance. The tide-water
fishing is therefore practically over by the 1st of August.
Net fishing above the salt water is forbidden, or at least
subject to the same restrictions, which, if they were
enforced, would almost put an end to it ; but, discredit-
able as it may seem, and short-sighted as such conduct
unquestionably is, this law is totally disregarded in many
rivers, where of course the fish are rapidly diminishing.
They spawn over gravelly flats and pools, covering up
the ova after impregnation, and then descend slowly,
greatly emaciated, ugly and woe-begone, to the sea. At
such times, although they will still take the fly, they are
unfit to eat, and while they notwithstanding frequently
fall a victim to the cruel spear of the murderous savage,
no true angler nor honest man will harm them.
Casting the fly gracefully and effectively is a peculiar
art, hard to acquire, and picturesque to witness ; it if.
altogether different from slashing the water, and almost
THE SALMON. 103
4S difficult of mastery as the corresponding science
of trout fishing. The rod, being long and compara-
tively heavy, must be held in both hands, which are
changed occasionally so as to alternate that at the but,
and teach the angler to cast over either shoulder. The
line is lengthened to the proper distance, is raised with
a springing jerk, swung out straight behind, and then
again cast forward with the same springy motion. The
work has to be done with the tip, which, except in cast-
ing against the wind, must be kept as elevated as possi-
ble. The stiffer the rod the more command the angler
has over his line in avoiding the rocks and making the
best of awkward places ; but this is counterbalanced by
the disadvantages of excessive weight and a stiffness in
striking that frequently breaks the casting line. A rod
will cast four times its length beyond the tip ; one of
sixteen feet, therefore, will cast sixty-four feet of line,
ordinarily abundant ; and although one of twenty feet
will cover sixteen more feet, unless it is made of cedar it
is uncomfortably heavy. A cedar rod would be perfec-
tion, but it is not to be trusted in the hands of a
bungler.
"When there is any current, and it is rare to take
salmon elsewhere, the fly is cast across the stream and
allowed to swing over the fish, which invariably lie with
their heads up-stream. When a salmon intends to rise,
he generally separates himself from his companions and
waits till the fly approaches to the precise distance that
pleases him. Then
" Strike for your altars and your homes,"
104 THE SALMON.
not too hard, but as quick as the lightning from tne
sky, and this although contrary to the English books, on
the ground that a salmon, if he rises once and fails to
tonch the fly, will always come again. If, however, he
has tasted the unappetizing morsel, and has not been
hooked, for he is quick to spit it out, you will see him no
more. If you fail to hook a fish on the first rise, it is
well if you can keep your impatience under control, to
rest him by casting elsewhere a few times, and if you
fail to strike him on the third rise, change your fly.
Salmon are extremely particular and dainty in their
tastes, and it is never advisable to fish too long with one
fly unless they take it well.
The great rules are — keep out of sight, change your
flies and rest the pools. The best time of a clear day is
early and late, and in the midday heat not a boat nor a
line should disturb the water ; in fact, a pool that a
canoe has crossed is ruined for the day, and when there
is no rising, there is little good in casting. A pool that
is not disturbed at night would be found much better, as
a consequence, in the morning.
But after your fish is hooked, after he is played and
almost played out, after you have exhausted him, and
brought him skillfully and carefully to shore, he is not
yet in the pot ; nor will he be unless you have an assis-
tant expert with the gafT. There are all sorts of direc-
tions about this important operation, some authors saying
a fish must be gaifed in the shoulder, others preferring
the tail, some the belly, and some the back, but, in fact,
one place is as good another ; the main points are not to
miss nor graze him, and not to jerk so hard as to throw
THE SALMON. 105
him off tJie gaff. To prevent this, where you anticipate
finding only awkward aids, it is well to carry a gaff with
a small barb, like an ordinary hook. I have had the
indescribable pleasure of seeing my fish flung across
the boat, and dropped in the water on the other side.
The moment the fish is struck, the handle should be held
perpendicular, so that he cannot flounce off.
The best size for this implement is a length of nine
inches from the end of the shank to the middle of the
bend, from the latter four inches in a straight line to the
point, which should be delicate and sharp, and at least
two inches and three-eighths from the inner edge of the
shank opposite ; the bend should swell out so as to be
three inches across at its widest, and the end of the
shank must be bent back and sharpened ; the steel tapers
gradually from the point to a thickness of one quarter
of an inch. Being nothing more than a large hook, it
is easily carried, and when wanted for use, fastened to
any suitable stick by driving in the projection on the
shank, and winding the whole with stout cord. For very
large salmon, a stronger and larger gaff would be desir-
able, and for grilse a smaller one.
When fish run, and throw themselves out of water,
some writers direct you to taughten your line ; but I say,
heed them not. Your line is well out and sunk to some
distance, the very jump of the fish will consequently
bring a great strain on the hook, without your aid, and
many a fish is lost by such usage. On the contrary, if
you give to him as he leaps, you diminish the tension,
and then the quicker you take up the line after he has
fallen back, the better. If, on the contrary, when he
5*
[06 THE SALMON.
leaps he is near by you, and your line straight and out
of water, he will try and strike it with his tail to break
it, in which he may also be foiled by giving to him.
My experience is to this eifect, and you will soon find
out, if the fish are large and strong, how hard it is to do
otherwise.
It has been said that four times the length of the rod
beyond the tip is the utmost length of line that can be
handled with dexterity ; it is not meant that more can-
not be cast, for I have often cast five times the length,
but with an effort that soon becomes wearisome, and, if
across a rapid current, without the requisite command.
It is best to fish down stream, if possible, as otherwise
your line sinks, and even in fishing across there will be
considerable slack line. This is a second reason for
rapid striking. There is another mode of managing a
line, which is sometimes called casting, and by which a
distance of eighty yards can be covered. The angler has
a rod as thick at the tip as one's little finger, and a hair
line as thick as the tip. Of course no reel can be used,
as such a line would not run through the rings, or be
contained on the barrel. The line tapers regularly to the
fly. It is usually used in rapid water, and to cast, the
fisherman waives his rod from side to side, lifting as
much of it as possible clear of the water, and then
throws out strongly with an underhand motion. The
line rolls, as it were, raising itself from the water, as the
impetus advances, till the fly is taken up and jerked over,
so to speak, at an incredible distance. When a fish is
struck he is drawn in by hand. I have not tried this
proceeding sufficiently to speak positively, but think that
THE SALMON. 107
the heavy waxed lines now in general use would answer
to a comparative degree. It is a difficult though not
refined mode of fishing, and is the only way of casting
eighty yards.
The following is a list of the principal salmon and
trout rivers of Canada and New Brunswick, with the
distances of the former from Quebec, and such informa-
tion as could be obtained concerning their character and
condition. Those marked in italics have been leased
to private individuals, but the leasing changes year by
year.
The Jacques Cartier is the only river near Quebec
which, at the present time, affords any salmon.
From Quebec to Murray Bay is . 78 miles.
Here there is a river that furnishes a few salmon and
many fine trout.
From Murray Bay to the Saguenay is 44 — 120
There is excellent sea trout fishing in the Saguenay
and its tributary, the St. Marguerite, is a superior salmon
river.
River Escoumain 23
Between it and the Saguenay are the two Bergeronnes.
and both furnish a few salmon and many trout.
Portneuf 26
Plenty of trout and some salmon.
Sault de Cochon 9
Impassable for salmon, but affording excellent trout
fishing at its mouth.
LaVal .2
Snperioi salmon and trout river.
108 THE SALMON.
Bersamis miles 24 — 84
Affording in its tributaries many fine salmon ; between
it and the La Yal are the Colombia, Plover and Blanche,
all poor salmon streams.
Outardes 11
Manicouagan 16
Mistassini 12
Betscie 3
Of these rivers I can obtain no satisfactory informa-
tion.
Godbout 15— 57- -261
A celebrated salmon river, one of the best in the
province.
Trinity 15
Good salmon and trout fishing.
Little Trinity 10
Calumet 3
Pentecost 14
Not a salmon river.
St. Margaret 36
One of the best salmon and trout rivers.
Moisie 24—103—364
Fine large salmon are taken in this river, and it is
widely celebrated.
Trout 7
Manitou 35
Good trout fishing ; the salmon are obstructed by
falls.
Sheldrake 16
Magpie 22
Furnishes a few salmon.
THE SALMON.
109
St. John 5
An admirable salmon stream.
Mingan 16—101—465
Probably the best river in the province for salmon,
and excellent for tront.
Pomaine ....... 9
An excellent stream for both salmon and tront.
Wascheeshoo 53
Pashasheboo 18
A few salmon.
Nabesippi 7
Agwanus 5
A fair supply of salmon.
ISTatashquan
Salmon fine and abundant.
Kegashka
Salmon impeded by falls.
Musquarro
Affords good salmon fishing.
"Washeecootai .
Olomanosheebo
Coacoacho
Contains some salmon.
Etamamu
Fine salmon fishery.
14—106—571
23
ISTetagamu
A fine trout stream.
Mecattina
Good salmon fishing.
Ha Ha .
St. Augustine .
15
12
11
18
21
16
HO THE SALMON
Affords many salmon.
Esquimaux . . . 14—149—720
An excellent salmon river, somewhat run down.
In New Brunswick there are salmon in the St. John
and its tributaries, but the best of the latter, the Nash
waak, has been closed with an impassable dam. From
St. John it is easy to take the cars to Shediac, and cross
to Prince Edward's Island, where there is magnificent
trout fishing, especially near Charlotte, and tolerable
accommodation ; or one can take the Quebec steamer to
Bathurst and fish the Nipisiquit, which is admitted to be
the best river in tjie province, or the Pestigouche and its
tributaries, an excellent stream, but much injured by
spearing ; or the Cascapediacs, which furnish some sal-
mon and innumerable grilse. The Miramichi, between
Shediac and Bathurst, is a fine large stream.
The streams in Canada emptying into the St. Law-
rence from the south shore, are hardly worth mentioning
as salmon rivers, having been ruined by mill-dams, with
the exception of those that empty into Gaspe basin, but
they all afford superior trout fishing. I would here
remark, that where the name trout is mentioned in con-
nection with the British Provinces, the Salmo Trutta
Marina, or sea trout, is always intended ; and the sal-
mon fishing spoken of is fly fishing. The rivers that
empty into Gaspe basin, such as the Dartmouth, York
and St. John, are leased, as also the Bonaventure, that
flows into the Bay of Chaleurs.
As explicit directions for travelling through the
benighted regions called the British Provinces, the fol-
THE SALMON. HI
lowing are given from a somewhat unwillingly extended
experience.
Take the night train or any route that will bring you
to Boston before half past seven a.m., for at that hour
the boat leaves for St. John, not St. Johns, which is in
Newfoundland. If you are too late, you may still, by
means of the cars, intercept the same vessel at Port-
land. This boat does not leave daily, but generally
advertises in the New York and always in the Boston
papers. It touches at Portland, w T here you may take a
steamboat on its arrival to Calais, and proceed thence
by railroad to the Scoodic Kiver, where there is fine
white, not sea, trout fishing, or stop at St. Andrews,
whence there is a railroad in progress to Woodstock, on
the St. John River. The Boston boat reaches St. John
in about thirty- two hours, or at three o'clock ; the fare
is six dollars ; the meals extra, and, consequently, extra
good.
The Waverley House, in St. John, kept by J. Scam-
mell, affords the best, though poor, accommodation, at a
reasonable price. A train leaves on the arrival of the
boat for Shediac, and makes the one hundred and ten
miles in six hours, at a fare of three dollars. From She-
diac a steamboat that connects with the train carries you
to Chatham in twelve hours for three dollars and fifty
cents, the meals being extra and infamous. At Shediac.
John Q. Adams keeps the Adams House, and will fur-
nish information by letter as to the time of the starting
of the boats. Bowser's Hotel is the best in Chatham.
From Chatham to Bathurst, forty-five miles, you are
compelled to travel in a stage that only leaves three
[12 THE SALMON.
times a week, and never on the arrival of the boat, and
will occupy ten hours of your time at a charge of three
dollars and a half ; or you may take an extra for sixteen
dollars. If you hire one of Kelley, the stage proprietor,
make a tight bargain, for he is Biblical and takes in
strangers. In case you should be too late to reach
Bathurst the same day, or have leisure on your hands,
stop at the Half-way House on the Tabasintac, which
has the last syllable accentuated, and fish that night
and the next morning for sea trout. They are taken
from a horse-boat in abundance and of great size.
In Bathurst there is a good hotel called the Welling-
ton, kept by Mr. Baldwin, with the efficient aid of Mary ;
and also a more private establishment, by Bela Packard,
which is the customary resort of Americans. There is a
telegraph from St. John to Bathurst, and Baldwin will
meet at Chatham any guests that send him word, and
bring them to Bathurst for fourteen dollars. In the
latter place, Ferguson, Kankin & Co. will furnish all
the heavy outfit, such as pork, biscuit, butter, tea, sugar,
tobacco, and will have them ready put up if written to
beforehand. As it is customary on the Nipisiquit to
loan the guides blankets, the same firm keep them on
hand, and will lend them to those that buy stores of
them. Once or twice a month the Arabian leaves She-
diac and stops within a couple of miles of Bathurst, and
if you can manage to suit your time to hers, you can go
direct and be ticketed through for ten dollars. Her
days may be ascertained at the office of the Boston boats,
but it is well to telegraph to Bathurst to have a canoe to
meet you, as otherwise you may have difficulty in reach-
THE SALMON. 113
ing town from the landing. The same steamer and its
associate, the Lady Head, run to Dalhousie, at the
month of the Restigouche, or a stage for that place
leaves Bathurst three times a week. The Lady Head
does not stop at Bathurst, on account of her draught of
water.
On the Erpisiquit it is customary to have a camp-
keeper or cook for the party, and two canoemen to each
angler ; they furnish the canoe and receive one dollar a
day each. The following are good men : John, Peter
and Bruno Chamberlain ; John makes a good fly, but is
sulky and willful ; Bruno- is lazy ; JSTed Veno and David
Buchet, both of whom arc excellent and willing, and
Fabian Bodereau, who is a fair cook. To save your men
some heavy work, where you do not intend to fish the
Rough Waters, you drive with your stores to the Round
Rocks, the Pabineau Falls, or, if you please, even to the
Grand Falls, but the latter part of the road is bad.
The only fishing on the Miramichi is above Boiestown,
and to reach it you leave St. John in the night or day
boat for Fredericton, arriving there in eight hours at an
expense of one dollar and a half. The night boat runs
three times a week. The best house in Fredericton is
the Barker House, kept by Mr. Fairweather, and in this
city you must get your supplies for the woods. The
stage leaves every Tuesday and Friday for Boiestown,
nominally at ten a.m., and reaches that collection of huts
nominally at six p.m. The fare is two dollars and a half,
and the ordinary charge for an extra is ten dollars, but
remember the stage proprietor is Kelfey. The best
tavern in Boiestown is kept by Avery, but about five
114 THE SALMON.
miles up the river, at Campbelltowii, is a nice house
owned by William Wilson, and the true plan is either to
write to him to meet you at Fredericton, or drive over
to his place. He will engage your men, aid you with
the supplies, provide you with bread, besides making you
generally comfortable, and you have gained so much in
the ascent of the river. The stage from Boiestown runs
to Chatham, and by that means you may continue to
the Nipisiquit, but there is no reliance to be placed on
it, and an extra from Fredericton to Chatham, one hun-
dred and ten miles, costs thirty dollars. The stage fare
is seven, and there is no telegraph to Boiestown.
One of the most interesting ways of reaching the
various rivers of New Brunswick is by portaging from
the head-waters of one into those of another. For
instance, a steamboat leaves Fredericton semi-weekly,
when the water is not too low, for the Grand Falls on
the St. John ; a few miles above, the Grand River
debouches, from the head-waters of which a short port-
age of a few miles takes you into the Waugan, one of
the branches of the Restigouche, or you may stop below
the Falls and ascend the Tobique, a noble river, full of
salmon, but which, strange to say, will not take the fly,
and from Lake Nictou, the source of the Tobique, you
can readily portage into Lake Nipisiquit, and by ascend-
ing the main forks of the latter, a short portage puts
you on the TJpsal quitch, a branch of the Restigouche,
and abounding in salmon. Another confluent of the
St. John, the Shiktahauk, is crossed at its head by the
Royal Road, where a wagon can be had to convey your
baggage to a branch of the Southwest Miramichi, and
THE SALMON. 115
from Newcastle, at the mouth of the latter river, yon
can ascend the Northwest Miramichi and strike the
Nipisiquit near the Grand Falls. These are but a few
of the simplest voyages that may be made, but a glance
at the map, or a talk with any old Indian guide, will
reveal many others. *
* Travelling in the Dominion has been much improved since the feregoing was
written, and the hotels are better. The expenses of living are higher than thsy
were, but still much cheaper than in the United States.
116 NEW BRUNSWICK.
CHAPTER VI.
NEW BRUNSWICK.
One bright moonlight night in the early part of Bum-
mer, a heavy wagon, drawn by two powerful horses, was
bowling along one of the dreary level roads of the
province of New Brunswick. It was loaded down with
trunks on the rack, barrels under the seats, that were
built on springs above the sides for that purpose, and
bundles and bags innumerable in the bottom, and two
long leathern cases that suggested salmon rods. It car-
ried three men ; the driver, tall and spare, with a shrewd
eye, and long, curly, black hair, was turned half-way
round in the seat, assuming an attitude that combined
comfort with facility of conversation. On the back seat,
a middle aged gentleman, whose hair and beard were
silvered o'er, but whose eye was bright as in his earliest
youth, and a younger man of stout build with brownish
hair and beard. Their talk was of the forest, and many
thrilling tales of danger, or exciting ones of the chase,
were told; vivid descriptions of how the moose, the
caribou, the red deer, met his fate ; stories of the tiger,
the wild boar, the rhinoceros and unwieldy elephant ; or
peaceful description of killing the beautiful trout, the
fierce, striped bass, or the voracious mascallonge. The
time wore pleasantly away as they passed along between
NEW BRUNSWICK. 117
the sombre lines of spruce and hemlock and juniper, as
they ran into the deep shade or emerged into the open
moonlight till they came in sight of the Nashwaak,
seaming the dark earth like a vein of silver, when a glo-
rious view presented itself to their attention. Far away
as the eye could reach, stretched the valley of Nashwaak,
silent as the repose of death ; not a sound but the rat-
tle of the wheels broke the still air, while the moon
bathed the rocks, the earth, the trees, with its uncertain
light, formed weird shapes out of the foliage, or cast
strange shadows across the road. Still on, however,
scarcely pausing — as every true sportsman must pause
before the beauties of nature — the party were soon lost
in the shady descent that led toward the bank of the
stream, whose course they followed some miles, crossing
it beyond, over a high, substantial bridge. The road
then branched off, traversing the unbroken wilderness,
where for miles not a habitation was visible, till mid-
night found them amid a heavy shower at McCloud's, the
half-way house from Fredericton to Boiestown.
The horses under the shed, a sound thumping on
the door brought out the host, who attended to the wants
of man and beast, and sent them on their way rejoicing,
as soon as the storm had abated. There was little vari-
ety in the scene ; the road was mostly level and good,
the forest was of the same dull character, with many
dead trunks towering up amid it ; there were few houses
and no settlements, and the country was principally ore
vast plain. As the morning light began to streak the
east with grey, they came in sight of the peaceful Mira-
michi, and turning off from the main road across the
118 NEW BRUNSWICK.
Taxes Kiver, followed the course of the larger stream, till,
nearly opposite a beautiful spring, where they had
stopped to water their horses, they turned into a barway,
and in a moment more reached Wilson's, their prospec-
tive head- quarters.
Wilson's habitation was a quaint-looking log house,
perched on the edge of a bank overhanging what is
called the interval, or fruitful stretch of level land lying
between the river and the hills, and its evident antiquity
bore testimony that it had belonged to one of the earliest
settlers.
A well-stocked garden, an extensive barn, a large
drove of sheep and cows, suggested what an industrious
and comely wife and daughter confirmed, that Wilson's
was a well-to-do family.
As a general thing, the people of this region are of the
most short-sighted possible character ; they live for the
present, and an easy way of making a dollar is irresistible,
though it may entail the final loss of ten. The country
is slowly going back to a savage condition ; farmers,
instead of attending to their farms, speculate in lumber,
because it enriches one man in fifty; mortgage their
farms, which are sold under foreclosures to strangers and
allowed to grow up with weeds and bushes. Tens of
thousands of acres are in this condition, and are being
fast rendered irreclaimable. Instead of encouraging fish-
ermen to come and spend money among them, although
they admit it is about the only money they see, they
annoy and overcharge at such a rate that they have
driven away all but a few from Fredericton. Insteac 1
of preserving and increasing the fish, they obstruct the
NEW BRUNSWICK. 119
channel entirely with nets, striving by one grand haul to
destroy the supply forever. To this general rule Wilson
is the only exception, and may be relied on, not only to
do whatever in reason is required of him, but to do it at
a moderate price. His only extravagant charge is for
driving to Fredericton to meet his guests.
The guides were waiting for us, and after making the
requisite preparations and passing a comfortable night
in the old log house, we started next day on our journey
toward the head-waters of the Miramichi. Our canoes
were made of the log of a tree, and familiarly called
dug-outs, and were admirably adapted to the purpose.
Being extremely long, sometimes thirty feet, and nar-
row, they offer every convenience for poling, draw
but little water, and are not injured by contact with a
rock, that would pierce the thin bark of the delicate
birch canoe, and will hold their way better against a
strong rapid. They are made of the trunk of some tow-
ering branchless pine-tree that the adventurous woods-
man has marked during the winter for his own, and
which, after being cut down, is transported to a conve-
nient place, where it is hewn into the shape of the outside
of the boat. Augur holes are bored in the bottom, and
pegs, tw T o inches long, are driven, to answer for guides aa
to thickness. The inside is then roughly hewn away,
till the pegs are reached, when it is smoothed off, being
left two inches thick at the bottom, and a half inch at the
gunwale. Slender knees are introduced at proper dis-
tances to prevent its warping under the sun ; a brace is
fastened across from gunwale to gunwale, near the stem
and stern, and the boat is complete. It is worth about
X20 NEW BRUNSWICK.
twelve dollars, and having neither braces nor thwarts,
but an open space its entire length, is convenient for
holding a long rod, and being steadier under foot, offers
many advantages over the birch canoe. It is particularly
excellent in descending a shallow river, where occasional
contact with rocks is inevitable ; but is too heavy to
portage comfortably. For rapid travel, either up or down
stream, it is invaluable.
Our baggage was stowed, a comfortable seat made
with the end of the tent upon the bottom of the canoe,
our rods were rigged out for an occasional cast, and w T e
commenced the ascent of the " Smiling Water." There
had been heavy and continuous rains, and quite a freshet
had now changed its ordinary placid exterior into one of
angry turbulence. The river poured down fierce and
wild, crested with foam and discolored with sand and
decayed matter. But we made swift progress ; starting
five miles above Boiestown, we soon passed the last
settlement, and entering among the mountains, amid
which flows the upper stream, trusted ourselves alone
to the dangers of the wilderness, to the mercy of the
black-flies for our comfort, and to our skill as sportsmen
for our support.
Ten months of close confinement in the city, years
amid the horrors of civilization, had well prepared us
to appreciate a return to man's natural state of savage
life ; long contact with vice and folly had made us eager
to taste once more of truth and purity, the communion
with nature uncorrupted and unsullied ; to feel the aii
blow through the waving trees instead of down narrow
streets; to hear the water rippling over its native bed,
NEW BRUNSWICK. 121
a«*d not through Croton pipes ; to see the sun shine from
out the blue sky, instead of being reflected amid murk
and smoke from heated bricks.
The spruce and fir-trees stretched in solid mass like a
green wall on either side; occasionally, a white pine
loomed above them, or a birch, with its satin bark,
broke the dull hue ; or where the landscape was more
open, the graceful elm or willow stood forth in solitary
beauty ; and the juniper, with its endless names of hack-
matac, tamarack, larch or cypress, waved its weird arms
aloft ; or the light, quivering poplar, with its never-
resting leaves, cast an uncertain shade.
The weather had been changeable all day, occasionally
bright and pleasant, the next moment dark and lowering
— now the sun shining bright and warm over the hill-
sides, then the rain driving in spiteful showers and veil-
ing them in mist. The storm no sooner forced on our
overcoats than the sunshine persuaded them off. Toward
night, when heavier and blacker clouds obscured the
sky, we determined to camp, and chose a point opposite
a little tributary rivulet called Sandy Brook.
That evening and the next day were passed complet-
ing our camp equipage of tables, chairs, basins, and
various little articles, and in waiting for the river to fall.
During this time one of those pleasant incidents occurred
that are intensely enjoyed in rough woodsman's life ; two
gentlemen who had been up the river and were returning,
stopped and dined with us. There was a grand discussion
over flies, resulting in a mutual exchange, and a general
mourning over the condition of the water, with, how
122 NEW BRUNSWICK.
ever, the encouragement that the freshet had destroyed
the nets and let the fish up to the higher grounds.
Next day we killed our first fish of the season. I had
goue above the island at the head of the pool opposite
our camp, and was fishing slowly down, taking occasion-
ally a brook trout, when there came a heavier rise, a
louder plash, and a fierce run that made my reel discourse
sweetly. The fish had struck me in the broken water,
and it was uncertain what he was till suddenly he sprang
twice his length out of water, showing the silvery sides
and gleaming scales of the lovely grilse ; again and
again he sprang in air, making the water fly as he fell
back, and doing his best to break the line or shake out
the hook. Bravely he fought, taking advantage of the
current to run out line, and rubbing against rocks to cut
it through. In vain, foiled at each attempt, his strength
rapidly diminishing, he was slowly brought nearer and
nearer, till a dexterous blow of the gaif finished the
struggle.
Joyful at the good omen, we hastened to our camp,
and were met by my companion, Dalton, who proudly
exhibited a similar trophy. There was a grand supper
that night, and strong hopes that the flood would abate,
hopes that were destined to a cruel disappointment when
next day the stream was found to be higher than ever,
and heavy clouds portended a second deluge.
Our next camp was at Still Water Brook, a name that
the present condition of that streamlet strongly belied.
We did not, however, remain long, our sport being con-
fined to grilse, and not many of those, and when an Eng-
lish officer, who had been fishing above, called to say he
NEW BRUNSWICK. 123
had taken all the fish he wanted at a station further on.
we broke up camp at once, to the great disgust of our
lazy cook, who thought he had cut his " sprunghungle,"
or stick that supports the kettle over the fire, for the last
time. We pushed on to Burnt Hill, a famous camping-
ground among all those that fish the Miramichi, and
there, on the open point near the rock at whose base is
the deep pool where salmon lie when the water is warm
we established our sylvan home for the last time.
Burnt Hill is so named from having been burnt over,
years ago, and is still a mass of dead and blackened
trunks, that tower in fantastic shapes toward the sky.
Next morning, having selected my choicest cariboo fly,
Abraham pushed the canoe across the boiling torrent,
so that I could fish near the rocky shore opposite. Hav-
ing made several casts toward the bank, he swung the
canoe in, and, running its nose on a rock, gave me a
chance to fish the centre of the channel. I had hardly
cast, when from out the curling wave rushed a mighty
monster, which gleamed a moment in the sunshine and
disappeared. I felt a heavy, dull strain on my rod, the
fish swam deep and seemed unconscious of what had
happened. Then, suddenly aroused to his danger, a
magnificent salmon rushed down-stream and vaulted
high out of water. Abraham glanced at me ; I returned
the look, but not one word was spoken. The fish
returned to his former station, as though disdaining a
struggle with a fragile cord and contemptible fly, and
remained there some moments, heavily swimming round
and round. Suddenly he became alarmed, and away
he went, thirty yards at least, the line whistling through
124: NEW BRUNSWICK.
the rings and the reel hissing with the speed. He made
a splendid leap and paused.
I had just time to tell Abraham to swing his boat off
the rock where she was resting, when the fish started
again. Down he darted ; the rod bent, the line flying
through the water, and after him came the pursuers.
He hesitated an instant above the worst rapids, and then
sped down them ; once in a while I could see him amid
the foam and flying spray, as he rolled himself half out
of water over some heavy wave ; but my attention
was occupied in keeping the line clear of rocks, and not
exerting too much strain upon it. Admirably did
Abraham handle the canoe. He was alone ; the water
seethed and boiled round us broken into a mass of fierce
waves, small cascades and gleaming foam. It poured
with raging current over high bowlders, and swept be-
tween narrow rocks. He stood erect in the stern, his
eye taking the measure of every falls, the strength of
every eddy ; he swung the canoe's head first one w x ay
then another, easing her down over the higher waves,
that, curling against the stream, broke over the bow in
mimic showers, and pushing strongly through the circ-
ling eddies. 'Not a rock did he touch, not a moment did
the boat escape from perfect command, and when we
were launched upon the quiet bosom of the deep pool at
the foot of Burnt Hill Rapids, the fish was on the line.
We each drew a long breath and again exchanged
glances. It was a beautiful spot to kill a fish. The
water, all white and raging above, formed a broad eddy,
that washed the base of the rock on which I now stood.
Although there was still a strong current in the centre.
NEW BRUNSWICK. 125
an expanse of clear water spread out at our feet, into
which, after each rush, the fish could be easily led, and
where his macl leaps were the only risk. It was om
first fish, and I exercised the utmost care; not^tiil he
was almost dead did I force him to the surface, where
Abraham, with one blow of his gaff, brought our prize
to land.
What a beauty she was ! The small, delicate head
pronounced her a female, the destined parent of myriads
cut off in her prime. The brilliancy of her flashing
scales gave token that not long since had she been roam-
ing free from danger along the shores of the seacoast,
and her broad back and deep chest announced her heavy
weight. Glorious in her outward appearance, our keen
appetites pictured to our imaginations the rich red flesh
in layers, with flakes of pearly fat between, the delicate
thin sides of the stomach, the depth of solidity in her
broad back. Our thoughts dwelt for a moment on the
fine juicy flavor her fifteen good pounds would furnish
for many a meal. But above all did we recollect with
pride how well both of us had done in killing the first
salmon in the Miramichi.
Mr. Palton had been watching the contest from the
bank opposite, and we returned together to the camp,
where libations were duly poured forth in honor of our
first capture, and preparations were made for a grand
entertainment.
That evening around the fire, after supper was finished,
and the genial pipe was soothing as well as invigorating
our minds, and after several personal adventures had
been related, Duncan commenced the following history of
12# NEW BRUNSWICK.
THE GHOST OF DEADMAn's LANDING.
" You saw that point of land we came by the othei
day, where I told you a dead man was carried out from
the woods? Well, I was there when he was killed.
We had been logging in the woods, and doing pretty
well till we tried to draw out an uncommon heavy stick
of timber. Sam Masters was with us — we used to call
him Swearing Sam, from a bad habit he was given to —
and Sam had taken a great idea to have that stick of
timber taken out before night ; but the horses were tired
and it was late, and after we had dragged it part of the
way all but Sam proposed to leave it till to-morrow.
But Sam insisted that he was not going to give up, and
when we all agreed to quit, he got mad and swore he
vould have that timber out alone if lie had to go to
hell for it, and work till the day of judgment. We
tried to persuade him off, but stay he would, and we left
him with the horses and returned to our camp, which we
had made at the landing. After supper was finished,
and it began to be late, we became anxious about Sam,
and when he did not arrive, at near midnight, all hands
set out to look him up.
" We had not much trouble to find the horses ; they felt
cold and hungry, and were neighing for their supper,
but were surprised to see the log rolled off the truck,
and Sam gone. But the next thing we noticed was
Sam's head just out from the edge of the log, that lay
across his body. It was an awful sight ; the moon was
shining bright on his face, that was turned up toward
NEW BRUNSWICK. 127
the sky, but all swollen and discolored, with the eyes
wide open and starting out of their sockets, and his
tongue sticking out of his mouth, and the blood frozen
round his nostrils and the corners of his lips. He musi
have been dead for hours. We had a hard time to roll
the log off, and then he was mashed all out of shape, so
we carried him the best way we could to the shanty, and
next day wrapped him in a blanket and took him down
the river. His wife was all struck of a heap Avhen she
saw him, for Sam was a good husband ; if he did swear
more than he ought, he never swore at her."
u He would have been squelched sooner if he had,"
put in Dalton, sotta voce.
" "We felt pretty bad," continued Duncan; " but after
a few days had to go back and finish hauling the logs,
for we had a lot cut. It was cold weather, and the wind
howled through the pines till sometimes, at night, we
almost thought we heard hallooing in the woods, but no
one cared to go out and see. About two weeks after our
return, I happened to leave my axe where I was chop-
ping, and as snow had begun to fall pretty fast, and it
might be snowed over, I went back after it. I had
forgotten precisely where it was left, and lost a good deal
of time looking about, all the while the snow coming
harder and harder, so that the track was soon covered.
That was not much matter, for I knew the country well ;
but it was growing dark, and the snow blinded me, so
that I could not see plainly.
" You may believe I did not delay any ; but after hur-
rying on as fast as possible for an hour or two, thought
things lc oked strange ; the trees grew thick and the
128 NEW BRUNSWICK.
ground rough and steep, and I could not tell where 1
was. I searched about for some landmark, but it was
almost dark, and after trying in vain, and having a heavy
overcoat with me, but no matches, I was about to crawl
under the roots of a dead tree and make the best of it,
when I heard somebody shouting in the distance.
" There is no mistake, but I was glad, and sung out
back, and clambered over the trees and stones toward
the voice ; but what was my surprise, on approaching,
to see our own team, and one of the boys driving. They
had no intention of hauling another log, and must have
been foolish to think of it in that snow ; but, stranger
than all, when I called, did not stop or take any notice.
To tell the truth, I began to feel mighty queer, especially
as the driver was shaped uncommon like Sam, and I
suddenly remembered that it was that night a month ago
when he hauled his last stick of timber. I followed
slowly along and never said a word ; the driver, whoever
he was, was riding on the log, and now and then his
voice shouted out what sounded in the storm mighty like
a curse. Suddenly the drag struck a stump, the horses
made a spring, the log started, the driver tried to jump,
but slipped, and the log fell on him with crushing force.
There was an awful shriek in the next blast that drove a
shower of snow in my eyes, and when 1 looked again,
horses, log and man were gone. I knew well enough