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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
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 9 — 104 
 
CUBAandBACK 
 
 —I N— 
 
 /twenty-two DAYS. X / 
 
 A. G. C. Jr. 
 
 FROM THE PRESS OF THE 
 
 Times Printing Jtouse, 
 
 610 Chestnut St., Philada. 
 1874. 
 
V 
 
 76^ 
 
 A Series of Five Articles originally 
 
 contributed to 
 
 "THE BEACON," 
 
 A Monthly Amateur Journal of 
 
 Merchantville, N.J. 
 
 And, after some slight revision, published 
 in this form for 
 Private Circulation Only. F~ 
 
 %ZI 
 
CHAPTER 
 
 Page 5. 
 
 Introductory. — Departure of the " Crescent City."— Our companions. 
 —Seasickness.— Amusements.— The Sabbath.— A Memorable Dinner- 
 First Glimpses of Cuba. — Morro Castle.— Havana. — The land-locked 
 Harbor.— View from Steamer's Deck.— Waving Palms.— The Fleet of 
 Boats. — Luscious Fruit. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Page 14. 
 
 At Anchor. — Awaiting the Spanish Officials. — The Landing.— Pass- 
 ing the Custom House. — Drive through the City. — "Hotel El Tele- 
 grafo." — Spanish Cooking. — Havana by Gas-light. — Daily Programme 
 at Hotel. — Drive to Marianao. — The Lunch. — Strange Scenes. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Page 20. 
 
 The Market Place. — "Los Molinos/' the Captain-General's Garden. — 
 Laughable Scenes at a Fire.— Description of " La Honradez" Cigar- 
 ette Factory. — Visitor's Register. — The Cemetery. — The Bull-Ring. — 
 Women in Havana. — Theatre Tacon. — "El Louvre."— Lottery. — La 
 Dominica Fruit Preserving Establishment. — The Coming Sabbath. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. Page 33. 
 
 Sunday in Havana. — The Cathedral Services. — La Merced Church. — 
 Leaving for Matanzas. — An Early Start. — Railroad Regulations. — 
 Stopping at Union. — The Volante.— Our Visit to Sugar Plantation. — 
 The Machinery. — Slaves. — Coolies. — The Nursery. — Some Facts and 
 Reflections. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Page 42. 
 
 Matanzas. — " Hotel Leon de Oro." — Our Morning Drive. — Visit to 
 the Caves of the Beautiful Sea. — Valley of the Yumuri. — Returning to 
 Havana.— Our Departure for Home.— The Steamer " City of Wilming- 
 ton." — A Stormy Voyage. — Some Parting Advice about Visiting Cuba. 
 
.. 
 
 
 /Cfv^i? 
 
 c>lLA 
 
 &f 1 
 
*|To Cuba and Back 
 
 —IN— 
 
 TWENTY-TWO DAYS./ 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introductory. — Departure of the " Crescent City." — Our Companions. 
 — Seasickness. — Amusements. — The Sabbath. — A Memorable Dinner. — 
 First Glimpses of Cuba. — Morro Castle. — Havana. — The land-locked 
 Harbor. — View from Steamer's Deck. — Waving Palms. — The Fleet of 
 Boats. — Luscious Fruit. 
 
 Vy/HURSDAY, November 27th, we bid adieu to 
 JM Cuba, its tropical greenness and beauty; five 
 J days later we see the snow-clad highlands of 
 
 I New York and are chilled by winter's icy 
 
 Vj breath. In visiting the "Queen of the An- 
 tilles," the land of orange grove and palm, a long- 
 cherished desire has been gratified, and our fullest 
 expectations met in its strange sights and luxuriant 
 growth; our enjoyment marred only by the sad, sad 
 picture of "Man's inhumanity to man," the cruelty, 
 ignorance and degradation so prevalent throughout 
 the Island of Cuba. Returning to the United States, 
 more than ever do we appreciate the blessing of civil 
 and religious liberty ; and deeply grateful are we that 
 our lot has been cast in a Christian land. Desirous 
 of sharing with others our delightful recollections, and 
 hoping to impart pleasure and information, we attempt 
 a description of the scenes and incidents connected 
 with our trip To Cuba and Back in Twenty-two 
 Days. 
 
TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 A journey of thirteen hundred miles- is before us; 
 but unmindful of ocean's perils, with joyous anticipa- 
 tions, we make our preparations for the voyage. The 
 steamer Crescent City, of Clydes' New York and Havana 
 line, is our choice; and on Tuesday, November nth, 
 shortly before the time of departure, we are on board. 
 
 A hurried glance at the elegant spacious cabin and 
 our cozy state-room, confirms all we have heard in 
 praise of the Crescent City, which, just from the ship- 
 yard of Messrs. Cramp & Sons, Philadelphia, is prac- 
 tically new, and this her first voyage to Havana. 
 Ascending to the deck, we stand watching the busy 
 and interesting scene presented. 
 
 All is activity aboard the steamer, while upon the 
 crowded pier confusion seems to reign. Amongst 
 the many attracted by the departure of the Crescent 
 City, we notice Mr. Thos. Clyde and his son William 
 P. Clyde. They move restlessly about, in consultation 
 with captain, engineer or stevedore; here and there, 
 on steamer or pier, infusing their energy into all with 
 whom they come in contact. Such men should be 
 and are a source of pride, assisting as they do in the 
 rapid development of our country. Few of our 
 readers are aware of the vast extent of their opera- 
 tions. In addition to this route (their latest venture), 
 they have established lines from Philadelphia, New 
 York and New Orleans to nearly every seaport on 
 the Atlantic coast. Owning over fifty steamers, with 
 a small army of employees, everything is conducted 
 with system and dispatch. This personal attention to 
 business — the great secret of their success. 
 
 From a vessel at our side we are receiving ponder- 
 ous castings — machinery for the sugar-mill of some 
 Cuban plantation — their transfer to the deck of our 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 steamer proves quite tedious, being attended with 
 considerable difficulty. 
 
 At last all is in readiness, our fastenings are cast 
 off, and — amidst loud hurrahs — the Crescent City 
 glides from the pier, much to our gratification and to 
 the relief of the Messrs. Clyde, whose anxiety has 
 been that nothing should occur to prevent the prompt 
 departure of the Crescent City, their pet steamer. 
 
 With prow seaward we wend our way through the nu- 
 merous shipping in the harbor. Onward we go ; night 
 is fast approaching ; the lights of the great city grow less 
 and less distinct, until all is shrouded in darkness ; and, 
 chilled by the cutting wind, we seek the warmth of our 
 cabin ; not, however, before Sandy Hook is passed and 
 we are gently rocked by old ocean, causing us to realize 
 that we are now fairly on our way to Havana. An hour 
 later supper is announced ; seated at the table we learn 
 who are our compagnons de voyage ; nearly every face 
 bears a foreign imprint, but some are unmistakably 
 American. There is no sociability, as just now each 
 seems to realize the dignity of his or her position, and 
 nothing beyond the coldest civilities are exchanged. 
 Supper ended, drowsiness comes over us ; and retiring 
 to our state-room, in blissful ignorance of the rising 
 storm, we soon fall asleep, only to be awakened by the 
 violent motion of the steamer as she plunges forward 
 and is tossed by the angry waves. Morning appears, 
 the storm rages even more fiercely, there is no induce- 
 ment to arise, and we remain in our berth, nearly 
 every passenger pursuing the same course. " Misery 
 loves company," and it is some comfort that we are 
 not alone in our sufferings. Oh ! seasick mortal ! 
 what language can describe thy pangs, as with mind 
 and body racked thou first fearest death and then 
 
TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 longeth for the grim messenger to end thy miserable 
 existence. Fain would we draw the curtain over 
 Wednesday's experience, referring to it only as a 
 blank ; Thursday dawns bright and clear, and the 
 welcome sunshine comes streaming in at the port-hole. 
 Springing from our berth and quickly dressing, we 
 hasten on deck ; the bracing sea air imparts new life, 
 our lost appetite returns, and we gain courage to take 
 our place at the breakfast-table ; at lunch and dinner 
 new faces appear, until around the supper-table all 
 are gathered. 
 
 Our experience of yesterday has created a bond of 
 sympathy; formality vanishes, and there is now 
 manifested a kind and friendly feeling which deepens 
 as the evening advances, and continues through the 
 remaining days of our voyage. 
 
 " Opposite Charleston, about seven hundred miles 
 on our way," responds the mate, as at 10 o'clock 
 Friday morning, we inquire of him our position. The 
 sun is asserting his power ; we have a foretaste of 
 tropical heat ; and right welcome is the cool evening. 
 After supper we receive a Spanish lesson from our 
 instructor, a Cuban, and before retiring have made 
 some slight progress in the charming language. 
 Saturday the awning is spread, and beneath its grate- 
 ful shelter gather the passengers, reading or convers- 
 ing, while" many indulge in cards or chess, and a 
 game of quoits is in progress played with blocks of 
 wood — an indulgence of our kind and obliging Ship's 
 Carpenter. The ingenuity of all has been taxed to pro- 
 vide entertainment ; each day has brought its variety 
 of enjoyment; and the time has flown so quickly that 
 that it seems but yesterday our voyage commenced. 
 Sunday our eyes open upon a day of surpassing 
 
loveliness; through the port-hole we drink in the 
 delightful morning air and catch a glimpse of Florida, 
 the first land we have seen since leaving New York ; 
 visions of orange groves and magnolia come crowding 
 before our mind, but all we now see is a barren waste, 
 and none of its charms are revealed to us, not even 
 when on deck as with the Captain's glass we scan 
 the uninviting coast. 
 
 After breakfast we are afforded great amusement 
 by a large school of porpoises, swimming just at our 
 steamer's prow. Standing directly above them, we 
 watch their every movement as they gaily disport 
 themselves — maintaining their position with ease — 
 until a pistol is discharged, and the ball striking the 
 leader he immediately dives beneath the surface, the 
 rest disappearing with him. 
 
 Deeply interesting also the flying-fish so constantly 
 appearing and the myriads of Nautiluses or"Portuguese 
 men-of-war" looking so beautiful in the sunlight. 
 
 Notwithstanding the charm and novelty of our 
 surroundings-, our thoughts turn, this Sabbath morn- 
 ing, to the loved ones at home. Gladly would we 
 accompany them to the house of God. There will be 
 no service aboard ; but a few Americans retire to a 
 state-room and there with united hearts we invoke 
 God's presence and blessing, and afterwards rejoin 
 our fellow-passengers, most of whom are utterly 
 regardless of the sacredness of the day. 
 
 It is rumored that the dinner to follow, being the 
 last on board, will excel all previous efforts ; at lunch 
 we partake lightly, and at four-and-a-half o'clock, 
 with keen appetite are able to show our full appre- 
 ciation of the magnificent dinner set before us ; many 
 
io 
 
 TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 are the thanks expressed for the generous provision 
 which had enabled our able steward, Mr. Packard, 
 to present so attractive a bill of fare. 
 
 Sunday, Nove7nber ibth, 1873. 
 
 NEW YORK AND HAVANA DIRECT MAIL LINE, 
 
 STEAMSHIP CRESCENT CITY. 
 
 T. S. CURTIS, Commander. 
 
 BILL OF FARE. 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 A la Reine Oyster. Julliene. Tomato. 
 
 PISH. 
 
 Boiled Bass, Egg Sauce. Boiled Halibut, Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce. 
 
 BOAST. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton and Currant Jelly. Beef. Chicken. 
 
 Pork. Goose. Spring Lamb, Mint Sauce. 
 
 Young Pig, Apple Sauce. Baked Ham, Champagne Sauce. 
 
 BOILED. 
 
 Veal. Stuffed Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Chicken, Parsley Sauce. Mutton, Caper Sauce, 
 
 Pig's Jowls and Cabbage Sprouts. 
 Corned Beef and Cabbage. Corned Pork and Turnips. 
 
 GAME . 
 
 Canvas-Back Duck. Wild Pigeon. Teal Duck. 
 
 Mole and Mallard Duck. Saddle of Venison. 
 
 Prairie Chicken. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Chicken Salad. Potato Salad. Lobster Salad. Fried Oysters. 
 
 Chicken Saute and fine herbs. Boiled Squab on Toast. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets, Aux Petite Pois. Prairie Chicken. 
 
 Potted Pigeon. Lobster Plain. Calves' Head, Brain Sauce. 
 
 Fricassee Chicken. ' Calves' Feet, en tortu. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Celery. Tomatoes. 
 
 String Beans. Onions. Green Corn. Parsnips. 
 
 Lima Beans. Carrots. Lettuce. 
 
 Green Peas. Asparagus. Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Turnips. Squash. 
 
 DESSERT. 
 
 English Plum Pudding, Stewed Sauce. 
 
 Squash, Apple and Cranberry Pie. 
 
 Madeira Wine Jelly. Tipsy Parson. 
 
 Boston Cream Cake. Lemon Ice Cream. 
 Blanc Mange. Charlotte de Russe. Jelly Tarts. 
 
 Candied Fruits. Peaches. Prunes. 
 
 Figs. Nuts. Raisins. Grapes. Apples. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 CHAMPAGNE AND TABLE WINES FREE. 
 
Our repast ended, we gain the deck just as the sun 
 is setting. The golden orb as it sinks behind the 
 western horizon, gilds the heavens with its departing 
 glory, the whole scene reflected by the placid waters ; 
 darkness quickly follows, revealing the phosphores- 
 cent light shining this evening with unusual brilliancy; 
 we seem ploughing our way through a sea of fire, 
 and every wave is tipped with silvery light, while the 
 heavens are resplendent with lustre, beaming from 
 starry worlds. Yielding to the fascination of this 
 lovely and peaceful tropical evening, the passengers 
 linger long on deck. Our pleasant intercourse is 
 soon to end, and saddened by thoughts of the sepa- 
 ration which will come with the morrow, we are 
 reluctant to say "good night." Onward presses our 
 noble steamer, fast nearing the coast of Cuba. We 
 could drop anchor in the Bay of Havana before 
 dawn, did not Spanish law forbid the entrance of any 
 craft between sunset and sunrise; a law so inviolable 
 that were we fleeing from the fury of a hurricane, still 
 would deny us the safe shelter of the harbor. We 
 are anxious to be up bright and early, and retire 
 with the assurance that we shall not be forgotten. 
 Awakened by the promised knock at our state-room 
 door, our toilet is quickly made and we reach the 
 deck before the sun has risen. We are now abreast 
 the island, and its long line of distant hills is- dimly 
 outlined in the gray morning light ; soon we observe 
 signs of life in the fishers' villages by the water's 
 eflge, and can see them launching their tiny boats. 
 Just before us, against the bright blue sky, looms up 
 the tower of Morro Castle. 
 
 Next we distinguish the outlying portion of Havana 
 
TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 —to the extreme right La Punta Fort, while more 
 prominent is the massive white-walled prison just 
 beyond. A cannon upon the fortress breaks the still- 
 ness of the morning with its loud report, proclaiming 
 that we are privileged to enter the harbor. Soon 
 rounding the Morro Castle, almost grazing its rocky- 
 base, our prow is turned toward the narrow channel, 
 and saluting the fort as she glides by, the Crescent 
 City rides upon the quiet waters of the land-locked 
 bay. At this moment a beauteous scene is presented ; 
 before us is Havana, its strangely-colored buildings, 
 and tiled roofs, while in the background are low hills 
 covered with tropical vegetation of richest green; 
 the tall, graceful palm, standing outboldly, overtower- 
 ing all. To our left stretches the long line of Cabanas 
 fortifications, and in the distance the village of Regla. 
 Turning again to the right we look upon Havana and 
 its crowded shipping flying the flag of nearly every 
 nation; but we must drop anchor and await the com- 
 ing of Custom House and Health Officers, before 
 steaming further up the bay. We see pushing out 
 from the shore, and hastening toward us, numerous 
 boats which soon surround us, and we are almost 
 deafened by a loud chorus of boatmen's voices begging 
 in Spanish or terrible English, the privilege of carry- 
 ing us and our baggage ashore. Now arrive small 
 sail-boats having aboard hotel runners who beseech 
 and almost demand our custom for " San Carlos," 
 "Santa Isabel," " Lalnglaterra," or " Hotel El Tele- 
 grafo." 
 
 We hear the shrill cry " Naranja," " Naranja" 
 (oranges, oranges), and displaying some silver coins, 
 quickly receive in exchange a bounteous supply. 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 13 
 
 And now, beneath the awning, sheltered from the 
 sun's scorching rays, we enjoy the luscious sun- 
 ripened orange, while our eyes feast upon the strange- 
 ly-beautiful scene before us : waving palms, placid 
 water, quaint Havana; a scene more lovely than 
 ever our imagination had pictured; a reality far 
 exceeding our brightest dream. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 At Anchor. — Awaiting the Spanish Officials. — The Landing. — Pass- 
 ing the Custom House. — Drive through the City. — "Hotel El Tele- 
 grafo." — Spanish Cooking. — Havana by Gas-light. — Daily Programme 
 at Hotel. — Drive to Marianao. — The Lunch. — Strange Scenes. 
 
 UR delightful voyage from New York ended, 
 the Crescent City drops anchor in Havana 
 harbor, and soon we shall enter yonder quaint 
 looking city. We are awaiting the arrival of 
 the health officer, whose visit is necessary be- 
 fore we can leave the steamer. Intensely interested 
 in our strange and beauteous surroundings, we do not 
 share in the impatience manifested by our fellow- 
 passengers at his delay. Now our attention is directed 
 to a six-oared boat, flying the Spanish flag, rapidly 
 approaching, beneath its awning sit the Custom House 
 and health officials ; reaching the deck of our steamer, 
 they are met by the Purser, who reports all well, and 
 presents the ship's papers, which receive a hasty 
 glance, our permit to land is signed, and the cere- 
 mony is concluded. All restrictions being removed, 
 we are jostled and crowded by numerous visitors from 
 the little boats about us; runners from the hotels 
 pressing us sorely for our custom. The welcome 
 sound of the gong is heard and we descend to the 
 saloon for breakfast. Seated opposite to us at the 
 table, is Mr. McKellar, Clydes' Havana agent, who 
 has come aboard this morning to pay his respects 
 to Capt. Curtis, and to inspect our splendid steamer, 
 
which he pronounces a great accession to the line. 
 Advised by him we decide to patronize the "Hotel 
 el Telegrafo," and after breakfast are introduced to 
 the representative of that hotel, who promises to ac- 
 company us there. A last glance at our cozy state- 
 room, a hurried adieu to kind friends, and we follow 
 our guide into the boat which is to carry us ashore ; 
 our baggage follows. Now all is ready, the boatmen 
 bend to their oars, a breeze fills the sail and away we go, 
 fairly bounding over the water, toward the custom- 
 house, a half-mile distant, where all foreigners must 
 land. 
 
 Arrived there we are assisted by our guide, who 
 acts as interpreter ; without unnecessary delay our 
 baggage is examined, and we receive our passport, 
 properly vised. Passing through the gate we step 
 into a cab and are rapidly driven through the narrow, 
 alley-like streets towards our hotel, a succession of 
 novel sights meeting our view as we dash along. The 
 low buildings, painted blue, pink or yellow ; the 
 barred windows of the dwellings ; the shallow stores, 
 entirely open in front ; the odd vehicles ; the people ; 
 their dress ; everything so strange, 
 
 We find the "Hotel el Telegrafo" three-storied, 
 with a projecting front, supported by stone pillars, 
 and underneath a long line of show cases, filled with 
 jewelry; passing inside we register, and are shown to 
 our room, a spacious apartment with high ceiling and 
 tiled floor, which proves to be splendidly situated, the 
 low window opening out upon a balcony, from which 
 we have a fine view of Havana ; while just across the 
 street, in the public parade-ground, known as " El 
 Campo de Marte," a market-place greets our vision. 
 
16 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 At once becoming interested in the scene before us, 
 we are not content until, descending to the street, 
 we cross over and mingle with the motley crowd of 
 negroes, Chinese and whites moving about, the mur- 
 mur of whose voices is comparable only to the 
 confusion of tongues at the Tower of Babel. 
 
 In the booths, exposed for sale, are large piles of 
 golden oranges, immense quantities of bananas, and 
 heaps of yams, dates, guavas, pineapples and cocoa- 
 nuts; also, a great variety of fruits and vegetables 
 entirely new to us. 
 
 Fain would we linger, but the odor arising from 
 decayed matter upon which shines the rays of a 
 noon-day, tropical sun, hastens our departure, and 
 we return to our room, satisfied that " distance lends 
 enchantment to the view." 
 
 Now taking a cab we visit the office of Mr. Mc- 
 Kellar, 76 Calle-de-Cuba, the head-quarters of Ameri- 
 cans in Havana, where we exchange our gold for 
 Spanish currency, afterwards calling at the United 
 States Consulate ; thence to hotel, which is reached 
 about 4 o'clock. 
 
 Prejudiced against Spanish cooking by what has 
 been told us of their liberal use of oil, we have an 
 agreeable surprise in the very enjoyable dinner pro- 
 vided. It is served in six courses ; the dishes, while 
 they are mostly strange to us, are very palatable ; 
 excepting, perhaps, the fried banana which needs an 
 acquired taste. A dessert of delicate pastry, guava 
 jelly and delicious fruit, followed by coffee, concludes 
 the dinner ; but we linger to watch the people seated 
 at the little tables scattered about the dining-room. 
 
IN TWENTY- TWO DAYS. 
 
 17 
 
 Wine is seen in nearly every glass, and very many 
 are smoking, either cigar or cigarette. 
 
 During the evening we see the city by gas-light, 
 using again the four-wheeled, one-horse cab, of which 
 there are over three thousand in Havana; charges 
 regulated by law, being twenty-five cents to any point 
 within the city limits, or one dollar per hour, if 
 engaged " tiemfio" (time). 
 
 We have greatly enjoyed our first glimpses of 
 Cuban life afforded us in the visit to the market-place, 
 and in our rides through Havana. 
 
 Before retiring, we step upon the balcony and look 
 out over the city, now brilliantly illuminated — a fairy 
 scene. 
 
 We retire, but not to undisturbed repose, as our 
 couch is only a stout canvas stretched tightly over an 
 iron bedstead, which proves decidedly uncomfortable. 
 
 "When in Rome do as the Romans," — so we have 
 resolved to follow the Cuban life, during our stay on 
 the island. The daily programme of " Hotel El Tele- 
 grafo " is as follows : — 
 
 LUNCHEON at Early Morning, in 
 
 Bedroom. 
 BREAKFAST from q to 12. 
 DINNER from 4 to 8 P. M. 
 
 Accordingly, on awakening, we summon a servant 
 and order naranja, platanos, el pan, la mantequilla, 
 el cafe, (oranges, bananas, bread, butter, coffee,) 
 
which are quickly brought us and partaken of while 
 dressing. 
 
 For to-day (Tuesday), we have planned a drive in 
 the country to the village of Marianao about 12 miles 
 distant; breakfast over, at 10 o'clock we start. 
 
 We are soon beyond the narrow streets of Havana, 
 and upon the broad shaded avenue which leads to 
 "El Cerro," a suburban village three miles out. To 
 this point both sides of the avenue are lined with 
 stores or dwellings, some of the latter very elegant, 
 and with beautiful gardens attached; beyond "El 
 Cerro," along the road are scattered small settlements, 
 and Marianao proves to be a very insignificant 
 village. We stop at its only hotel the " Nueva York," 
 and having ordered a lunch, are ushered into a large 
 room with tiled floor, in the centre of it a rug, around 
 which are arranged, after the manner of the country, 
 chairs facing each other; the waiter soon appears, and 
 after spreading a clean white cloth, brings cheese, 
 tongue, biscuit, butter and olives, also a generous 
 plateful of fruit; then bringing some stalks of sugar- 
 cane, he cuts them in pieces about six inches long, 
 next pierces the eye of a green cocoanut, allowing the 
 milk to drain into a pitcher. The lunch is ready — 
 we have been greatly interested in its preparation, 
 our eyes having fairly stood out as we watched the 
 waiter's quick movements ; the ride has given us a 
 sharp appetite, and we enjoy everything set before 
 us ; extracting the juice of the sugar-cane we find 
 it sweet and refreshing ; of the cocoamilk, however, we 
 do not partake freely, having been warned of a ten- 
 dency to disagree with those unaccustomed to its use. 
 The country through which we have driven is truly 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 19 
 
 magnificent, all nature teeming with loveliness about 
 us, the tall palm, cocoa trees, and a luxuriant growth 
 of cactus, aloes and other tropical plants, with acres 
 of bananas. We meet horses and mules, bearing 
 upon their hacks all sorts of burdens, baskets filled 
 with fruit or vegetables, cages of live fowl, cans of 
 milk, or bundles of sugar-cane ; and we are greatly- 
 amused at the sight of a drove of horses in single 
 file walking slowly beneath immense piles of corn- 
 stalks, only their hoofs and the tips of their noses 
 being visible. 
 
 We see lounging about, hordes of dirty negroes 
 and white people, the very pictures of laziness ; in fact, 
 everybody seems half-asleep ; and we are reminded 
 of a holiday in the United States, when only a few 
 are working, and those indifferently. Nature is 
 indeed lavish in her gifts, but it seems only to pro- 
 mote a general disinclination for work. "Every 
 prospect pleases and only man is vile." 
 
 We return to Havana by the same road, reaching 
 our hotel after an absence of five hours, every 
 moment of which has been enjoyed. 
 
20 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Market-place. — "Los Mohnos," the Captain-General's Garden. 
 — Laughable Scenes at a Fire. — Description of "La Honradez" 
 Cigarette Factory. — Visitor's Register. — The Cemetery. — The Bull- 
 Ring. — Women in Havana. — Theatre Tacon. — "El Louvre." — Lot- 
 tery. — La Dominica Fruit Preserving Establishment. — The Coming 
 Sabbath. 
 
 O interesting the sights of Havana, so pleasant 
 our quarters at "Hotel el Telegrafo " that we 
 have been induced to prolong our stay until 
 Monday, when we shall leave for Matanzas, 
 stopping at Union, to visit a sugar-plantation 
 in the vicinity. We have found Havana decidedly 
 foreign; its architecture, streets, vehicles, people, 
 dress, language, customs, all so quaint and strange, 
 that we seem to be in some remote corner of the earth, 
 and can scarcely realize that our United States, the 
 land of progress and enterprise, is so near. The 
 temporary market on "El Campo de Marte" (field 
 of Mars), which our room overlooks, with its ex- 
 tensive display of Cuban products, and the motley 
 crowd in attendance, has been a source of unceasing 
 interest. By special permission of the Government 
 booths were erected by former occupants of the 
 principal market, recently destroyed by fire, involv- 
 ing a loss ©f several million dollars; to this mis- 
 fortune do we owe the pleasure derived from the 
 fascinating scene continually before us. During the 
 week we have thoroughly explored Havana, and 
 in addition to our drive to Marianao (already 
 
IN TWENTY- TWO DA VS. 
 
 21 
 
 described) have had frequent glimpses of the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 Just outside the city is " Los Molinos," the country 
 residence of the Captain-General ; to the magnificent 
 garden attached, visitors are admitted ; and there we 
 spent a morning very pleasantly amidst the pro- 
 fusion of most exquisite tropical trees, plants and 
 flowers. Strolling about these grounds we discovered 
 a beautiful grotto and an artificial cascade emptying 
 into a lake, its shores lined with rank growth of 
 bamboo, but most charming to us, of all this lovely 
 picture, were the broad avenues of noble palms, whose 
 towering height denoted great age. After leaving 
 the Captain-General's garden, we visited "El Jardin 
 de Aclimatacion," and purchased a small collection 
 of plants, which we were assured by the proprietor 
 (a Frenchman) could be safely carried to our home in 
 Merchantville. Havana has a surprising number of 
 churches, the almost incessant clamor of whose 
 bells, commencing at early dawn, while it may serve 
 to remind the 210,000 inhabitants of their religious 
 duties, certainly becomes very monotonous to stran- 
 gers. We have not been impressed with the grandeur 
 of the church edifices, the one designated "Cathedral 
 de la Virgen Maria de la Concepcion," a large an- 
 cient-looking structure, being attractive only as con- 
 taining the remains of Christopher Columbus, the 
 great explorer, who on the 28th day of October, 1492, 
 discovered the Island of Cuba and shortly afterwards 
 the Western Continent. From history we learn that 
 Columbus died in Valladolid, Spain, May 20th, 1505, 
 the body was taken to Seville, 151 3, thence in 1536 
 to St. Domingo, and on the 15th day of January, 1796, 
 
TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 was brought to Havana, and with great pomp and 
 ceremony deposited in its present resting-place. At 
 the left hand of the grand altar we were shown the 
 tablet upon which is carved in alto-relievo, the bust 
 of Columbus, and an inscription, which translated, 
 reads : 
 
 " O remains and image of the great Colon ! 
 Endure for a thousand ages, guarded in this urn 
 And in the remembrance of our nation." 
 
 Ascending one of the towers we enjoyed a fine view 
 of Havana, with its background of green-clad hills, — 
 the far-famed land-locked harbor, its narrow entrance 
 so well guarded by Morro Castle and La Punta Fort, 
 and just beyond, stretching far away, the restless sea. 
 
 The numerous "Plazas," or public parks, with 
 their noble specimens of palm and "Laureles de India" 
 are striking features of Havana, vast sums have been 
 expended in their adornment, many of them con- 
 taining marble fountains, statuary, etc. During the 
 evening music is discoursed at the " Plaza de Armas" 
 and several other parks by the military bands, these 
 "Retreta,"or out-door concerts, beinglargely attended, 
 even by the most aristocratic classes ; the ladies ap- 
 pear in full dress, and usually remain seated in their 
 carriages while listening to the music, though 
 occasionally they may be seen promenading in com- 
 pany with their gentlemen escorts. 
 
 Happening one morning at a fire in the neigh- 
 borhood of "Plaza de Armas," we had an exhibition 
 of the excitability of these people ; the frantic actions 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 23 
 
 and misdirected efforts of the firemen were highly 
 amusing, while the loud outcries which arose from 
 the assembled multitude served to make "confu- 
 sion worse confounded." Water was poured from 
 buckets into the antiquated fire-engines, which were 
 worked by hand, and long lines of men stood 
 holding the hose above their heads, (the reason we 
 fail to comprehend) these lines reaching to the scene 
 of the fire, a two-storied stone building, to which the 
 flames were easily confined, notwithstanding that, 
 owing to the entire absence of discipline and concert 
 of action, the greater portion of the water was 
 thrown upon the people and otherwise wasted. Never 
 have we laughed more heartily than while watching 
 the excitement which this trifling fire had occasioned. 
 In Cuba smoking is universal, and to meet a person, 
 young or old, who is not indulging in this national 
 habit, is indeed a rarity. Tobacco is extensively 
 cultivated on the island, and has a world-wide repu- 
 tation for superior quality, Havana is the distributing 
 point to other countries; and here is centered" 
 the manufacture of cigars and cigarettes. Havana 
 has about one hundred and twenty-five manufactories 
 of cigars, besides a number where cigarettes are made, 
 everywhere " Fabrica-de-Tabacos" meeting the eye. 
 " La Honradez," which occupies an entire block, is 
 the largest cigarette factory in the world; regular 
 days are appointed for resident visitors, but to 
 ''Americans" the doors are always open. We were 
 treated with the utmost politeness and the workings 
 of this vast establishment fully explained to us. On 
 entering, by request, we registered our name, resi- 
 dence and occupation, after which we were placed in 
 
24 
 
 TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 charge of a very gentlemanly usher, who led us first 
 to the shops, where are made by machinery the boxes 
 and barrels ; adjoining are a variety of machines, 
 the motive power furnished by an engine made in 
 Williamsburg, New York ; next we visit rooms where 
 the tobacco is received and assorted, still further on, 
 where it is ground and afterwards, by hydraulic 
 pressure, formed into blocks of uniform size and 
 weight. 
 
 We examined some machines, of French invention, 
 capable of making fifty cigarettes per minute, but 
 almost too complicated to be of practical use. The 
 . department of printing and lithographing proved of 
 great interest ; here are produced for this factory vast 
 quantities of labels, wrappers, circulars, etc., many 
 of very tasteful design, and colored in the highest 
 style of the art. 
 
 In one room we saw about fifty Chinamen seated 
 at tables, engaged in packing the cigarettes in bun- 
 dles of twenty -three or twenty-six each, according to 
 order. The quickness and precision with which the 
 requisite number are picked up and enclosed in the 
 wrapper was marvelous to us. 
 
 Besides the large force at work in the building, 
 (mostly Chinamen) the proprietors of "LaHonradez" 
 employ the leisure moments of over two thousand 
 porters, servants and soldiers, to whom they furnish 
 the paper and tobacco, which is returned in " Tareas " 
 or rolls containing five thousand and sixty-four 
 cigarettes each. In the packing room is presented 
 a busy scene; while the production of "La Hon- 
 radez" is over two and a half-million cigarettes 
 daily, so popular is this brand that there is never an 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 25 
 
 accumulation of stock ; boxes and barrels around us 
 awaiting shipment were directed to almost every 
 country in the world. 
 
 Returning to the office we were presented with a 
 bundle of cigarettes and a printed copy of the 
 "Visitor's Book," our name having been printed 
 thereon while we were inspecting the factory. In 
 this immense register we wrote opposite our name 
 some comments on "La Honradez," which will be 
 added to future editions of the "Visitor's Book," now 
 numbering two hundred and ninety-seven pages, and 
 containing thirteen thousand four hundred and sixty- 
 seven names and comments, a few of which we 
 present in illustration: — No. 6037, E. Lewis Quick, 
 Broker, New York. (Recently of Merchantville.) 
 "An immense concern and conducted with great 
 ability." No. 13,167, J. S. Skinner, Broker, New 
 Orleans. "This is indeed the most complete manu- 
 factory in every branch that I have ever seen, and a 
 visit to Havana would not be complete without seeing 
 it; my thanks are due to the firm." No. 12,991, 
 J. W. Hopper, Engineer, New York. " I consider, 
 after close observation, that this is the most complete 
 tobacco manufactory in the world." No. 12,883, 
 Henry Baldwin, Jr., Philadelphia. "The business, so 
 organized that every detail of a complicated manu- 
 facture may be courteously and unreservedly sub- 
 mitted to the inspection and criticism of strangers, 
 may well claim for its motto 'La Honradez,' ('hon- 
 esty' )." 
 
 No. 2496, William H. Seward, Secretary of State, 
 Washington. "Deeply impressed with the successful 
 manner in which the proprietor has combined West 
 
26 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 Indian production with American invention, Euro- 
 pean talent and Asiatic industry." 
 
 Expressing our appreciation of the kindness shown 
 us we depart, not, however, before we have purchased, 
 in the retail department, some packages of cigarettes 
 and smoking tobacco which we intend as presents 
 to friends who are addicted to the use of the weed. 
 
 We have seen nothing more striking than the burial- 
 place " Cementerio de Cristobal Colon," on the out- 
 skirts of Havana. It is divided by high stone walls 
 into nine courts or hollow squares. The receptacles 
 for the dead are niches, eighteen inches square, 
 extending seven feet into the walls, in four rows, one 
 above the other. Each court containing say nine 
 hundred of these openings. After the corpse has 
 been deposited (very often without a coffin), the 
 entrance is closed by a slab, upon which is carved 
 an inscription; in many cases a glass is placed in 
 front, and in the space between (about three inches) 
 is enclosed a wreath, crucifix or rosary. Not long 
 since a party of young Cubans, students of the Havana 
 Medical College, visited this cemetery; one of the 
 number made a few scratches with his diamond pin 
 on the glass at the tomb of Castanon, a Spanish 
 general, which being discovered, seven promi c ing 
 young men were, by order of the Spanish government, 
 cruelly shot. Doubtless our readers have full knowl- 
 edge of the particulars, and that this dastardly 
 outrage, a foul blot upon the civilization of the nine- 
 teenth century, met with universal condemnation. 
 
 A certain philosopher has said, "judge a nation by 
 its sports." Spanish cruelty is proverbial, and the 
 sports indulged in by the masses serve to cultivate 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 27 
 
 this characteristic. Cock-fighting is continually in 
 progress, while Sunday is reserved for the Bull-fight, 
 both being under Government patronage, highest 
 officials of the island lending their presence at these 
 most disgusting spectacles. We have had no incli- 
 nation to patronize the Cock-pit, nor shall we dese- 
 racte the Sabbath by attendance at the "Plaza de 
 Toros" or Bull-ring. We had, however, sufficient 
 curiosity to visit the building, a large wooden struc- 
 ture, seats arranged in amphitheatre form, with ring 
 in the centre entirely open to the sky. There are 
 private boxes, that of the Captain-General being 
 decorated with the Spanish colors. We were shown 
 horses which are ridden by the "Picadores" (Lan- 
 cers) ; they have the appearance of worn-out stage 
 horses, poor, pitiable-looking beasts, far different from 
 the noble steeds our imagination had pictured. The 
 pantomime of our guide, with the descriptions pre- 
 viously given us by eye-witnesses, have enabled us 
 to clearly comprehend the manner of conducting 
 a bull-fight. The bull on entering the ring, is at 
 first confused by the shouts of the multitude, but 
 soon is aroused by the " Banderilleros " (dartmen 
 on foot), who display their red cloaks. The mounted 
 Lancers approach; now to further excite the bull, 
 sharp darts are thown by the "Banderilleros," and 
 not unfrequently " Fuego " are used, torpedoes which, 
 as they enter, explode and lacerate the flesh; and 
 now if the infuriated bull disembowels one of the 
 poor, blindfolded horses, the audience give every 
 manifestation of delight, in which join fair ladies and 
 children, and if the rider is gored, the entertainment 
 is considered even more rare ; after the bull has been 
 
28 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 sufficiently tormented, the "Matador" (swordsman) 
 is summoned, who usually with one thrust slays the 
 bull ; the carcass is then dragged from the ring and 
 a live animal substituted. Can we wonder that 
 the estimate placed upon life is so slight, that 
 cruelty is so prevalent throughout Spain and her 
 possessions, when such scenes form a portion of 
 the education of her people. 
 
 After our arrival in Havana, we first learned the 
 fate of the captain and crew of the steamer 
 " Virginius." We have been painfully aware of the 
 dislike and bitterness entertained against Americans 
 by the Spaniards here, and the expression of our 
 indignation would probably endanger life. Thursday 
 the "Virginius" was towed into the harbor by the 
 "Tornado," its captor, their appearance has caused 
 great rejoicing, and the principal streets are decorated 
 with bunting, displayed in honor of the event. The 
 "Tornado's" captain is the lion of the day, and a 
 banquet has been tendered him by the " Casino," an 
 organization of wealthy Spaniards, mostly slave- 
 holders, which wields an immense political power 
 on the island. Their club house, which we were 
 privileged to visit, is one of the finest buildings in 
 Havana, having cost several millions of dollars. 
 The billiard room contains twenty -four tables, and 
 there is a private theatre, with all the appointments, 
 where performances are given for the amusement of 
 the club and their guests. 
 
 The "Tornado" a neat looking craft, is anchored 
 just opposite the city, while the " Virginius" has been 
 towed to the government arsenal, further up the bay. 
 
 We engaged a boatman, who rowed us alongside, 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 29 
 
 and thus had an excellent opportunity to inspect this 
 noted steamer ; she has two smoke stacks, and her 
 model, long and narrow, with sharp prow, would 
 indicate great speed ; we cannot understand how she 
 was overtaken by the "Tornado" seemingly to us, 
 a much slower steamer. The grim sentries, pacing 
 her deck, looked rather suspiciously upon us, and 
 deeming "discretion the better part of valor," we 
 did not linger long. 
 
 One rarely meets a female walking in the streets of 
 Havana, excepting negresses, their turbaned heads 
 and long trailed dresses affording us considerable 
 amusement. Ladies here do not even leave their 
 carriages when shopping, but the goods are brought 
 out for their selection by salesmen. Our admiration 
 is not excited by the faces of the Spanish or Cuban 
 beauty ; despite dark eyes, rich complexion, and 
 regular features, their faces are uniformly expression- 
 less ; and we look in vain for indications of intelli- 
 gence or strength of character which the faces of our 
 ladies exhibit. When, in our morning drives, we 
 pass the dwellings, we have observed, through the 
 low, iron-barred windows, the careless and slovenly 
 appearance of the inmates ; and at evening, in driv- 
 ing past, noticed these same untidy creatures entirely 
 transformed by their elaborate toilets. From our 
 limited observation we should judge that the social 
 position and privileges of the females are far below 
 those enjoyed by the women of the United States. 
 Very generally their education is neglected, and there 
 are many in the highest walks of society whose knowl- 
 edge of history, science, and literature is more limited 
 than that of some American school-girls of thirteen. 
 
30 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 The "Theatre Tacon," one of the finest opera 
 houses in the world, can seat about three thousand 
 people ; the prevailing color of the decorations is blue, 
 and with cane-seated chairs, it presents a very cool 
 and inviting appearance, entirely in accord with this 
 "City of the Tropics." Just adjoining the "Theatre 
 Tacon" is "El Louvre," the fashionable cafe, where 
 one phase of Cuban life can be studied; vast crowds 
 congregate every evening, and a prodigous amount 
 of smoking and drinking indulged in. Some of the 
 drinks are peculiar to Cuba ; we had been told to call 
 for "Panales Frio," and were brought a tumbler of 
 water and ice, across the top a delicate comb of sugar 
 and white of eggs, this we dissolved in the water, and 
 when a little lime juice was added we found it a very 
 pleasant beverage ; but all are not of this harmless 
 character, brandy and other liquors being constantly 
 in demand. While admitting that but few cases of 
 drunkenness are met with in Havana, we must express 
 our conviction that the habitual use of wine by the 
 people of the island does not tend to their elevation ; 
 its cost makes serious inroads upon the scanty earn- 
 ings of the laboring classes, depriving them of many 
 comforts they otherwise would enjoy; besides, as no 
 one will deny there are many instances where a 
 thirst for strong drink is acquired and the inevitable 
 ruin and sorrow follows. 
 
 The selling of lottery tickets affords a livelihood to 
 very many in Havana; everywhere we go these slips 
 of paper are thrust into our face, and we are con- 
 stantly importuned by children, old men, or crippled 
 soldiers, to purchase a chance in the next drawing ; 
 the hope of obtaining a fortune induces many to 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 31 
 
 invest their last dollar, in fact all classes are addicted 
 to this species of gambling. Desirous of rewarding 
 the head waiter at our hotel for his polite attentions, 
 we handed him three dollars which we afterwards 
 learned were almost immediately invested in a lot- 
 tery ticket. Lottery is conducted by the government, 
 notwithstanding the acknowledgment that it exerts 
 a most demoralizing influence, not confined alone to 
 Cuba but extending to the United States, where 
 "Havana Lottery" is extensively advertised and its 
 agencies established in the principal cities. 
 
 Should any of our readers visit Havana they must 
 not omit seeing "La Dominica," an extensive manu- 
 factory of jellies, preserves and confectionery. We 
 were shown the process of making their delicious 
 Guava Jelly, so highly esteemed throughout the 
 entire world. The Guava (a fruit resembling the 
 orange, though smaller) is thrown into a caldron, and 
 sugar added; after it has undergone the necessary 
 cooking, being stirred meanwhile, it is strained, and 
 poured while hot into wooden boxes of various sizes 
 by Chinamen. A jam is also made from the Guava, 
 which is much cheaper and very generally used as a 
 substitute for butter, for be it understood that butter 
 is a luxury unknown to a large majority of the inhabi- 
 tants of Cuba, while the really good article cannot be 
 found even at hotel tables, not excepting " El Tele- 
 gram," the choicest New York butter yielding almost 
 immediately to this climate. From the almost bewil- 
 dering variety of preserved fruits offered by "La 
 Dominica," we have selected a few jars, also some 
 Guava jelly, quite certain that they will be fully appre- 
 ciated by friends at home. 
 
32 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 To-morrow (Sunday) we purpose attending early- 
 mass at the Cathedral, and will have the opportunity 
 of seeing how the Sabbath is observed in Havana. 
 
 While we have endeavored to improve every 
 moment of this week there are doubtless some places 
 of interest which have escaped our notice, but our 
 stay cannot be extended beyond Monday morning, 
 when, as before mentioned, we leave for Matanzas, 
 stopping en route at Union; our kind friend, Mr. 
 McKellar, has favored us with a letter of introduction 
 to a prominent machinist there, who will direct us to 
 one of the numerous sugar estates in that neighbor- 
 hood. We shall proceed to Matanzas the same day ; 
 returning to Havana in time for the steamer " City 
 of Wilmington" for New York, sailing Thursday P. M. 
 in which our passage has already been engaged. 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Sunday in Havana. — The Cathedral Services. — La Merced Church. 
 — Leaving for Matanzas. — An Early Start. — Railroad Regulations. — 
 Stopping at Union. — The Volante.— Our Visit to Sugar-Plantation.— 
 The Machinery.— Slaves. — Coolies. — The Nursery.— Some Facts and 
 Reflections. 
 
 PI LTHOUGH not expecting that in Havana 
 <^p there would be the strictest observance of 
 I \ the Sabbath, we were somewhat surprised to 
 J J find the day so generally disregarded ; appa- 
 rently there was no suspension of business amongst 
 the cafes and retail stores, and a greater portion of 
 the wholesale establishments were not closed. 
 
 In the afternoon crowds flocked to the " Bull-fight," 
 and at evening the Circus, Opera at "Theatre 
 Tacon," and other amusements attracted large audi- 
 ences : while services held throughout the day at the 
 Cathedral and other Catholic Churches, were but 
 slimly attended. 
 
 As advised, we attended "High Mass" at eight 
 o'clock. On entering the Cathedral we found scarcely 
 fifty worshipers, those mostly women and children, 
 and at no time during the service did the number 
 present exceed one hundred. Highly interesting to 
 us was the pompous entrance of the wealthy, aristo- 
 cratic families, preceded by their slave, bearing a 
 costly rug, which, being spread on the marble floor, 
 all would kneel upon it, the slave first arranging 
 the ladies' trains. 
 
 We observed that rich and poor, black and white, 
 knelt side by side, and well might other denomina- 
 
34 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 tions emulate the noble example of the Catholic 
 Church in thus exemplifying that "God is no respect- 
 er of persons." 
 
 Behind the altar rail were about a dozen priests, 
 all of whom took part in the service. In the absence 
 of a choir they chanted the responses with the 
 accompaniment of a fine organ located in the gallery. 
 
 Just previous to the ceremony of " Elevating the 
 Host," a priest passed through the congregation 
 motioning all to kneel, and touched upon the shoulder 
 with his staff those who did not immediately comply. 
 
 Soon followed a sermon in Spanish, delivered with 
 great rapidity and violent gesticulation, the speaker 
 utterly failing, however, to command the attention of 
 his audience. A brief ceremonial concluded what 
 had impressed us as an exceedingly cold and lifeless 
 service, so unlike Catholic worship in the United 
 States. Later we visited Havana's most fashionable 
 church, " La Merced." The exterior of this edifice 
 is far from imposing, but the interior having recently 
 undergone a thorough transformation, presented a 
 bright and cheerful appearance in contrast with the 
 other churches of the city; as at the Cathedral, a' 
 large majority of those present were ladies, some of 
 them most elegantly dressed, all combining to form 
 an interesting and attractive scene. Having under- 
 stood that permission of the government had been 
 granted a Baptist clergyman, residing at " Hotel San 
 Carlos," to hold service in its parlor on Sundays, we 
 proceeded there only to find that it had long since 
 been discontinued, and we were confronted with the 
 fact that on the Island of Cuba there was not a single 
 place of Protestant worship. 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 35 
 
 Back again at our hotel we met some who with us 
 were desirous of acknowledging the mercy and good- 
 ness of God, and assembling, as did the disciples cf 
 old, in an upper chamber, we realized the fulfillment 
 of that precious promise. " Where two or three are 
 met together in My name, there I will be in the midst 
 of them." 
 
 While our recollections of the Sunday are not 
 wholly unpleasant, we cannot forget how flagrantly 
 the day was violated, and though seemingly a con- 
 tradiction, we assert that there is no Sabbath in Ha- 
 vana. Thankful .are we that our laws in this particu- 
 lar are so different ; and may every attempt to de- 
 stroy the sanctity of the Sabbath in the United States 
 be most earnestly resisted. 
 
 Havana and Matanzas are connected by two rail- 
 roads, a direct route, about sixty miles, the other 
 more circuitous and nearly thirty miles longer. 
 
 For the purpose of seeing more of the intervening 
 country, it is quite usual for tourists to go one route, 
 returning by the other, which plan we followed. 
 
 On the road by which Union is accessible, there 
 are but two trains daily, 5J a. m., and 2 p. m. ; in 
 order to stop there en route, accomplish the visit to 
 a sugar-plantation in the vicinity, and yet reach Ma- 
 tanzas the same day, we were compelled to take the 
 morning train, though why it should start at such an 
 early hour we cannot understand ; fortunately the 
 depot is situated near by "Hotel El Telegrafo," thus 
 lessening the possibility of our being left. 
 
 For nearly half an hour after our train started from 
 Havana, the outside world continued shrouded in 
 darkness, but the rising sun gradually revealed to us 
 
the beauty and loveliness of the country through 
 which we were passing, a succession of enchant- 
 ing scenes and most interesting objects being present- 
 ed as we were whirled along, for although there is 
 much that is provokingly slow on the Island of Cuba, 
 railroad speed cannot be complained of. Taking 
 advantage of each stoppage, we would step out upon 
 the platform of our car, or perhaps mingle for a mo- 
 ment with the motley crowd gathered at the stations ; 
 quite ludicrous to us was the signal for starting the 
 train, a small hand-bell being rung, reminding us of 
 summons to dinner. We noticed that the locomotive 
 and cars were of American manufacture, the former 
 made at Paterson, N. J. 
 
 On all the railroads of Cuba there are the first, 
 second and third-class passenger cars. From the 
 first, colored persons are excluded ; fare four cents 
 a mile ; in the third-class, which is patronized almost 
 entirely by negroes and Chinese, one cent a mile is 
 charged, and the cars provided are extremely com- 
 mon, the seats merely rough boards and without 
 backs. We could discern but little, if any, difference 
 between the first and second-class cars, both being 
 cane-seated, of very ordinary finish, and notwith- 
 standing the presence of ladies, continually filled 
 with dense clouds of tobacco-smoke. 
 
 Arriving at Union, we had no difficulty in finding 
 Mr. Morrison, to whom our letter of introduction was 
 addressed. Upon learning the object of our calling 
 upon him, he suggested that we visit " Las Canes," 
 the estate of Senor John Peoy, about six miles dis- 
 tant, and kindly gave us a letter to the Administrator 
 or Overseer of the plantation ; in a few moments the 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 37 
 
 " volante" which had been ordered for us drove up, 
 and we could scarcely refrain from laughing, so odd- 
 looking was the whole turnout. Imagine, dear reader, 
 a gig body slung between, or slightly forward of, two 
 immense wheels, the shafts extending under it and 
 resting upon an axle behind. In the shafts was har- 
 nessed a small horse, and at the left side, in long rope 
 traces, another, upon its back, a heavy wooden 
 saddle in which sat the driver, dressed in a flaming 
 red jacket and the balance of what was once a hand- 
 some livery — the whole affair presenting a rather 
 worn-out and dilapidated appearance. In Havana 
 we had frequently seen these vehicles, but had never 
 ridden in one. Before proceeding far we discovered 
 the practical use or rather necessity of the "volante" 
 in Cuba, for so horrible the condition of the roads, 
 so wide and deep the ruts, that nothing else could 
 have borne the strain to which our "volante" was sub- 
 jected. 
 
 The road led, as it were, through one vast field of 
 sugar-cane, and on either side, at intervals, could be 
 seen groups of buildings, in size, small villages, the 
 surroundings of some sugar-plantation. 
 
 At last " Las Canes" was reached, and upon pre- 
 senting our letter we received a cordial welcome. 
 The Administrator first took us to an elevated pavil- 
 ion, from whence he pointed out the boundaries of 
 the estate, comprising thirty-six hundred acres, six- 
 teen hundred and fifty at that time planted in sugar- 
 cane. He informed us that Senor Peoy employed 
 the labor of two hundred slaves and four hundred 
 coolies, of whom sixty were connected with the sugar 
 mill, the remainder attending to the cultivation and 
 
gathering of the cane. He also stated that the an- 
 nual production of " Las Canes" is nearly thirty-five 
 hundred tons of refined sugar, which is packed for 
 shipment in boxes of four hundred and twenty-five 
 pounds each. We then visited the mill and were 
 shown the ponderous steam engine (made at West 
 Point, N. Y.,) and all the details of the machinery, 
 vats, &c, used in the manufacture of sugar, from the 
 rollers which crush the cane to the centrifugals in 
 which the sugar is refined. The very full and clear 
 explanations of our escort and the engineer, ena- 
 bling us to clearly comprehend how sugar is made. 
 Regret was expressed that the works were not in ope- 
 ration, we being three weeks too early for the grind- 
 ing season, which commences in that neighborhood 
 about the middle of December ; a great disappoint- 
 ment to us, we will admit ; however, this interesting 
 sight will be in reservation for us when we again visit 
 Cuba. We next walked through the extensive garden 
 and examined the many rare and curious plants, 
 trees and flowers which it contained. We there saw 
 for the first time a coffee-plant, the grains being en- 
 closed in what resembled, in color and size, a cran- 
 berry. Most wonderful cactus, flowers of the richest 
 hues, trees loaded with tropical fruits, all claiming 
 our attention. 
 
 Being invited into the mansion, we found a lunch 
 had been provided; most enjoyable of all were the 
 luscious oranges which had just been plucked for us. 
 We were informed that the Grand Duke Alexis had 
 lunched from the table at which we were seated and 
 had highly praised the flavor of the fruit offered him. 
 
 From the portico we noticed the negroes as they 
 
came from the fields at noon for dinner, also as they 
 returned in procession to their work, apparently a 
 cheerful and contented set, their faces wearing a 
 happy expression, quite in contrast with the morose 
 and sullen countenances of the coolies. We had 
 never before been brought in contact with slavery or 
 the coolie system, hence everything connected with 
 both was highly interesting to us, and as a special 
 favor we were permitted to look at their quarters, or 
 rather to glance into the walled enclosures, inside of 
 which they are locked at night, slaves and coolies 
 being kept separate. Afterwards we spent a few mo- 
 ments in the nursery, where were hosts of little ne- 
 groes, entirely nude, in charge of several old "aunt- 
 ies," the mothers being allowed to leave the fields 
 only occasionally during the day to nurse their babes. 
 Some were in baskets lying fast asleep, not in the 
 least disturbed by the swarms of flies which literally 
 covered them ; some just able to walk, while others 
 were almost large enough to commence work ; the 
 whole forming a very comical scene, even now, when 
 brought to mind, compelling us to laugh. Since 
 1870, by virtue of a Proclamation of Emancipation 
 (so-called), children born of slave parents are free, 
 provided the planter is not called upon to support 
 them, in which case he is entitled to their services 
 until they reach twenty-one years of age ; by the 
 same Proclamation, slaves over sixty years old were 
 declared free. It is very evident that to the enslaved 
 this proclamation is only a mockery, while it affords 
 a cloak to the planter in authorizing him to deny his 
 support to the aged who cannot be of service to him 
 any longer. The total abolition of slavery on the 
 
AO 
 
 TO CUBA AND BA CK 
 
 Island of Cuba is merely a question of time ; already 
 the negroes are manifesting a restless spirit, they 
 require to be governed with the greatest severity, 
 and it is often necessary to shoot the refractory 
 slave. Not many years ago the slaves attached to 
 several estates united in a revolt ; now to prevent a 
 recurrence, different days are observed as the Sab- 
 bath upon neighboring plantations. The Cuban 
 planters are continually in dread of a general upris- 
 ing, which, should it occur, would result in the loss 
 of many lives and terrible destruction of property. 
 
 The coolies, as most of our readers know, are 
 brought from China, being contracted for there by 
 the planters to serve them eight years, the usual 
 pay being eight dollars per month with food and 
 clothing. They are virtually in a condition of slav- 
 ery, as when their term of service has expired 
 there is generally a forced renewal of the contract. 
 Coolies are pronounced more profitable to the plant- 
 ers than the slaves, doing more work, hence are in 
 great demand, and their number is increasing each 
 year. As before intimated, they seem very sullen 
 and morose, and the Overseer informed us that they 
 were often inclined to be rebellious ; also that at such 
 times, to enforce authority, firearms were unhesitat- 
 ingly resorted to. 
 
 We have stated that the annual production of " Las 
 Canes" is nearly 3500 tons of sugar, which is all re- 
 fined upon the estate. The sugar crop of the whole 
 island for the last year is estimated at 796,179 tons. 
 
 The United States is Cuba's best customer, last 
 year taking 479,373 tons, or 67.05 per cent, of the 
 714,960 tons exported; also 177,519 hogsheads of 
 
molasses, of the 189,333 exported, being 93 76 per 
 cent. 
 
 From another very interesting table we learn that 
 our imports from Cuba for the year ending June, 
 1873, were valued at $77,365,749 mainly sugar, mo- 
 lasses and tobacco as follows : Total sugar and mo- 
 lasses, $66,069,031. Tobacco, $9,678,858. Our ex- 
 ports to the island during the same period amounting 
 to $16,628,788. 
 
 We do not propose to discuss the desirability of 
 annexation to the United States, but would remark 
 that it seems almost inevitable that some time in the 
 future, Cuba will come into possession or control of 
 the United States. Visitors to the sugar-plantations 
 of Cuba are sure to receive a welcome, but the atten- 
 tion shown and facilities afforded us at " Las Canes" 
 are quite unusual, particularly as regards the grati- 
 fication of our curiosity in reference to slaves and 
 coolies. Thanking all for their kindness, not for- 
 getting the Engineer, (a most enthusiastic American, 
 receiving $170 per month, in gold,) we stepped into 
 our "volante," and after another severe jostling, 
 arrived safely at Union, having a little spare time, 
 in which to enjoy the kindly proffered hospitality of 
 Mr. Morrison and his wife, before the departure of 
 the train for Matanzas. 
 
42 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Matanzas. — " Hotel Leon de Oro." — Our Morning Drive. — Visit to 
 the Caves of the Beautiful Sea. — Valley of the Yumuri. — Returning to 
 Havana. — Our Departure for Home. — The Steamer " City of Wilming- 
 ton." — A Stormy Voyage. — Some Parting Advice about Visiting Cuba. 
 
 "yW'HE city of Matanzas, with a population of forty 
 J [ ^ thousand, is next in size and wealth to Ha- 
 I vana. The general characteristics of these 
 two cities are the same excepting that the 
 streets of Matanzas are wider and the whole city 
 presents a cleaner and more attractive appearance. 
 Possessing a magnificent harbor and being the ter- 
 minus of several railroads, which connect it with the 
 principal tobacco and sugar-producing districts of 
 the island, Matanzas has become an important ship- 
 ping point, and no mean rival of Havana for the 
 commercial supremacy of Cuba. There is compara- 
 tively little of interest to the tourist in Matanzas, but 
 its lovely surroundings will fully repay a visit. At 
 the hotel "Leon de Oro" (Lion of Gold,) we expe- 
 rienced the kindest treatment ; the gentlemanly pro- 
 prietor exerting himself to the utmost to render our 
 stay agreeable; his attentions contrasting strongly 
 with the studied indifference usually manifested by 
 landlords in the United States toward their guests- 
 Early in the morning, before breakfast, we started 
 in a volante for "Las Cuevas de Bellamar" .(the 
 caves of the beautiful sea) ; for some distance the 
 road led along the shores of the bay, then over some 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 43 
 
 steep hills, until a broad table land was reached. 
 There we found a frame shanty built over the en- 
 trance of the cave ; silence reigned within, until the 
 loud ringing of a bell awakened one of the guides, 
 who arose and admitted us; ranged around the 
 building inside were glass cases containing speci- 
 mens of the crystals, etc., for sale ; and in one corner 
 of the room a bar, alas, too convenient, it being very 
 generally patronized by the visitors, particularly after 
 they have inspected the cave, the exertion and con- 
 sequent fatigue being made the excuse for partaking 
 of alcoholic stimulants, nothing milder being kept 
 there. Our guide lighted his waxen torch and we 
 followed him down a very steep stairway into the 
 cavern ; soon we entered an immense vaulted apart- 
 ment known as the "Gothic Temple," having mas- 
 sive pillars and arches, also what was pointed out 
 as the "Organ." Passing on we saw many more 
 splendid stalactites and stalagmites, some of most 
 curious formation, bearing striking resemblance to 
 owls, cats, monkeys' faces, or vases of flowers, while 
 to recognize " Columbus' Mantle," " Frozen Water- 
 fall," "Mother and Babe," and " Cloak of the Vir- 
 gin," required some slight stretch of the imagina- 
 tion. After proceeding about one and a half miles, 
 at which point we were three hundred feet below the 
 surface, we returned to the entrance by another and 
 more difficult route, and right glad were we when 
 the outer world was regained, for, as is the case in 
 all caves, the heat was almost stifling. These caves, 
 though not so extensive as the Mammoth Cave of 
 Kentucky, are pronounced even more beautiful and 
 interesting. There are portions still unexplored, and 
 
even greater wonders may yet be revealed. We can 
 cordially endorse the saying : " He who has not 
 seen the caves of Bellamar has not seen Cuba." 
 
 The ' ' valley of the Yumuri " is a narrow gorge, about 
 four miles long. Through it flows a tiny river, from 
 which the valley takes its name ; it is seen to great- 
 est advantage from the summit of the " Cumbre," 
 distant from Matanzas four miles. From this point 
 the eye scans the entire valley — clothed in richest 
 verdure, with groups of palms scattered here and 
 there, it is indeed charming and picturesque, such a 
 scene as cannot fail to impress itself upon the mind 
 of the beholder, " a thing of beauty which is a joy 
 forever." Descending the mountain we had a pleas- 
 ing view of Matanzas, its bay, and, in the distance, 
 old ocean. 
 
 Delightful indeed are the recollections of our stay 
 at Matanzas, and fondly do we cherish the desire 
 again to visit that charming locality. 
 
 We returned to Havana by the shorter or more 
 direct railroad route, finding it decidedly preferable, 
 there being a greater variety of scenery, while the 
 country showed the highest state of cultivation ; all 
 about us the orange-groves, immense sugar estates, 
 vast fields of bananas, and a bewildering array of 
 tropical trees and plants. Arriving at Regla, ihe 
 town opposite Havana, we took ferry boat, and while 
 crossing the bay had a fine view of the city and 
 its shipping. Seeking again " Hotel el Telegrafo," 
 where we had left our baggage, we remained there 
 in the enjoyment of its comforts, until starting for 
 home. Having obtained the necessary permit to 
 leave the island, we bade adieu to the proprietor and 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 45 
 
 clerks at the hotel, to whose kindness and considera- 
 tion we must bear testimony, and proceeded to the 
 steamer, not, however, before calling at y6 Calle-de- 
 Cuba, to thank Mr. McKellar for his counsel and aid 
 to a " stranger in a strange land." Stepping into a 
 small sail-boat we were soon on board the " City of 
 Wilmington" which lay at anchor about half a mile 
 from the shore. At last the Cu torn House officials, 
 who had been on the steamer since its arrival at Ha- 
 vana, took their departure. All being in readiness, 
 we steamed slowly out of the harbor, "homeward 
 bound." 
 
 We do not purpose entering into the details of our 
 return voyage, but cannot forbear an acknowledg- 
 ment of the kind attentions shown us by Captain 
 Reed and all others connected with the "City of 
 Wilmington." 
 
 We were denied the delightful weather which made 
 our outward passage so pleasant. Scarcely had the 
 coast of Cuba faded from view when a storm arose, 
 and, continuing until our destination was reached, 
 interfered greatly with our comfort and enjoyment ; 
 but the opportunity afforded us of witnessing, in all its 
 terrible grandeur, a storm at sea, was ample compen- 
 sation. As we proceeded northward the temperature 
 gradually lowered, until tropical heat was exchanged 
 for the chilliness of winter. Repeating the introduc- 
 tion to our first article : 
 
 Thursday, November 27th, we bid adieu to Cuba, 
 its tropical greenness and beauty ; five days later 
 we see the snow-clad .highlands of New York and 
 are chilled by winter's icy breath. In visiting the 
 "Queen of the Antilles," the land of orange-grove 
 
46 
 
 TO CUBA AND BACK 
 
 and palm, a long-cherished desire has been grati- 
 fied, and our fullest expectations met in its strange 
 sights and luxuriant growth, our enjoyment marred 
 only by the sad, sad picture of " Man's inhumanity 
 to man," the cruelty, ignorance and degradation so 
 prevalent throughout the Island of Cuba. Returning 
 to the United States, more than ever do we appre- 
 ciate the blessing of civil and religious liberty, and 
 deeply grateful are we that our lot has been cast in 
 a Christian land. 
 
 Our parting advice, dear reader, is, visit Cuba; 
 nowhere on the face of the globe do customs and 
 manners contrast more strongly with our own, no- 
 where is everything more quaint and strange. As a 
 foreign trip, all things considered, particularly time 
 and expense, " To Cuba and Back in Twenty-Two 
 Days" is unsurpassed. The ocean voyage will 
 strengthen and invigorate, and you will be charmed 
 with the beauty and loveliness of the tropical isle. 
 Yes, go to Cuba, and you will discover that our 
 description is not exaggerated — rather " that the half 
 has not been told." 
 
 XKB &Z7S. 
 
IN TWENTY-TWO DAYS. 
 
 47 
 
 NO TM 
 
 We must not be understood as advising a visit to 
 Cuba during the summer months, or until every trace 
 of the yellow fever has disappeared, usually not be- 
 fore November. A very suitable time to visit the 
 island is about the middle of December, when the 
 heat has moderated and sugar-making upon the 
 plantations is at its height ; or, delaying the visit 
 until February, be in Havana during the " Carni- 
 val," which is described as very amusing. The pre- 
 sent disturbed state of affairs in Cuba is likely to 
 continue, possibly to increase, but one need not ven- 
 ture too near the theatre of operations, and by ab- 
 staining from the expression of any opinion upon 
 the merits of the rebellion, can avoid everything like 
 insult or danger. 
 
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