LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 0QD03:L2T5Hfl m <% **7Vv» A *> rf>* o n » V> /Jill*, ** # ^Wa*« » 4 0^ •4?^ ** ^ ^ ^ ^"^ B^^ A^P~ "WWW** ^^ J ^^^<> ^^-- S«?* »^^ %/ .<&&-. %^° i c ***** v * ^ % °WWs J* % ^ £** Some Unsetting Lights of English Literature WASHINGTON Never seduced by show of present good By other than unsetting lights to steer. — Lowe//. Arranged and Edited by J. J. BURNS/ A. M., Ph. D. CHICAGO AINSWORTH 6- COMPANY 1903 tA ^' ^THi LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Comes Received DEC." 22 !9®2 0LA86 (t XXa No. 14. t> OOFY B. Copyright, 1902, Ainsworth & Company Contents Page Introduction ....... v Lord Byron, with Portrait .... 3 Childe Harold's Pilgrimage, Cantos III and IV [Abridged] 7 Dr. Samuel Johnson^ with Portrait . . -65 A Journey to the Hebrides [Abridged], with map 69 Samuel T. Coleridge, with Portrait . . 171 Christabel ....... 173 The Picture . . . . . . .199 Charles James Fox, with Portrait . . 207 Napoleon's Overtures for Peace . . . 211 Robert Browning, with Portrait . . . 261 Saul ........ 263 Charles Lamb, with Portrait . f . . 287 Five Essays of Elia : The Old Benchers of the Inner Temple . . 289 A Quakers' Meeting .... 303 Grace before Meat . . . . .310 Dream Children; A Revery . . . 320 New Year's Eve ...... 325 Percy Bysshe Shelley, with Portrait . . 333 Adonais ........ 335 Edmund Burke, with Portrait . . . 357 A Letter to a Noble Lord .... 359 iv CONTENTS John Milton, with Portrait . . . • . 421 Lycidas ........ 425 Walter Savage Landor, with Portrait . 435 Imaginary Conversations : Southey and Porson ..... 439 John of Gaunt and Joanna of Kent . . 446 Leofric and Godiva . . . . .452 Diogenes and Plato . . . . . 459 General Lacy and Cura Merino . . .477 William Wordsworth, with Portrait . . 501 Ode on Immortality . . . . 505 Introduction " The riches of scholarship, the benignities of liter- ature, defy fortune and outlive calamity. They are beyond the reach of thief or moth or rust. As they can- not be inherited, so they cannot be alienated. But they may be shared. . . . " Have you ever rightly considered what the mere ability to read means ? That it enables us to see with the keenest eyes, hear with the finest ears, and listen to the sweetest voices of all time? . . . " Every book we read may be made a round in the ever-lengthening ladder by which we climb to knowledge, and to that temperance and serenity of mind which, as it is the ripest fruit of Wisdom, is also the sweetest. But this can only be if we read such books as make us think, and read them in such a way as helps them to do so; that is, by endeavoring to judge them, and thus to make them an exercise rather than a relaxation of the mind." — ■ Lowell's Books and Libraries. The purpose held steadily in view during the selec- tion and preparation of the contents of this book was to put into one handy volume some of the excellent works of literature. The book is now sent out with the belief that it may please the taste and meet the needs of a portion of that large body somewhat indefinitely described as " the gen- eral reader," also be welcomed by avowed students of literature. vi INTRODUCTION No one of Shakespeare's dramas is contained herein, as they are almost everywhere at hand in editions with- out number, and while these mighty works are read, other unsetting lights should not go unread. Milton, the second of our poets, and one of the four greatest epic poets of the world, is drawn upon for but one of his minor poems, a bit of perfection in its kind, to aid the study of another great elegy, different in style and much more difficult. Reuben Post Halleck says : " Adonais stands second in the language among elegiac poems, Lycidas, of course, coming first." With only a short step over the boundaries of truth the other writers may be said to be contemporaries, and surely were of the " choice and master spirits of their age." Childe Harold, as here presented, is the best half of the best half of Byron's masterpiece. As the whole work is rather a series of episodes, or of poems, it readily yields itself to the ungrateful but sometimes imperative process of shortening. It is not a rational possibility that one should take a Journey, though it be only a fireside travel, with Dr. Johnson across Scotland from Edinburgh to the western coast, over to Skye, Raasay, Col, Mull, Iona, and not enjoy the sight of hundreds of quaint and curious things in a part of the world which to most readers will be virgin soil. Besides, there is the rare opportunity of being present when these objects, animate and inanimate, strike the mind of one of history's most noted men, and of hearing him discourse upon them. It will be like " lunching with Plutarch," even if Plato does not join the company at supper. As in Childe Harold, so here, INTRODUCTION vii the editor felt compelled to abridge. He used about one third of the Journey, but trusts that it may run along without too vividly reminding the traveler of one of those roads we travel in fancy. In each of these pieces we shall hear of heroic achievements, learn something of other literatures, and thrill with emotion over land- scapes of beauty and majesty. It is not rash to declare Christabcl the finest poem of the kind in English, for it stands alone. It, The Ancient Mariner, and Kubla Khan are, however, suffi- ciently alike, and sufficiently unlike anything else, to have a very small alcove to themselves in the great Library of Literature, revealed to the inward eye of the imagination by rays of that light which, elsewhere, never was. One of our recent histories has this to say of Christabcl: " Read and reread, the poem is seen to possess astonishing power — the noblest torso in Eng- lish Literature." " Again and again " is a wise direc- tion to give one about to make the acquaintance of any genuine bit of art. Charles James Fox's rank as an orator was among the very highest ; and in the times that tried men his vast powers were used on the side of the struggling colonies on this side the ocean ; yet in America he is compara- tively a stranger. We read Chatham's speeches and the younger Pitt's ; speaking more discriminately, we read about these orators and their orations in Macaulay's bril- liant essays; we read Burke's American Taxation and Conciliation with America, but we do not read Fox or about Fox ; and we cannot readily come at chapter or book if we wish to read. It may be admitted that his speeches do not make as good reading as Burke's or Web- viii INTRODUCTION ster's, but they are full of interest and instruction, and help us to a judgment as to what manner of man this was, and the times in which he acted so notable a part. If asked to name the noblest, most sublimely poetical appeal to the religious nature of man offered us by the nineteenth century, a great many confident voices would respond " Browning's Saul." Read attentively, it charms the ear with its trumpet lines and lifts the soul to a higher plane. It illustrates by a high example the power of music. It leaves the man, when the ecstatic mood has passed, readier to take fast hold of the duties that lie along life's common way. Once introduced by this work to this poet, the reader will enjoy being a frequent visitor, — will find it good to be there. The finest things which I could say about the most noted orator or poet would apply in substance to Charles Lamb, the essayist. Pages could be filled with words of appreciation spoken by the best critics of the writer's art about the Essays of Elia. If it were destiny's stern command that my library should be limited to ten authors, Lamb should be one. Landor is another author who is not found on many shelves, but would be, if the people knew what he has to say, and would once catch the flavor of his way of saying it. Of Burke and Shelley and Wordsworth and Milton I need not add a word. Throughout the book, here and there, the writers of whom I have been speaking will be heard expressing their opinion, as it were, about each other. It was thought this would be pleasing to the reader. There might be a short supplementary chapter, of the contents of which, let these be specimens : — INTRODUCTION ix a. Browning means Wordsworth in the lines, — " We that have loved him so, honored him, followed him, Lived in his mild and magnificent eye, Caught his clear accents, learned his great language, Made him our pattern to live or to die." b. Coleridge wrote one of his dramas upon a theme of Byron's selection. c. Johnson, the greatest talker in the world, said of Burke : " That fellow calls forth all my powers." d. When Byron made his fierce attack on bards and reviewers, he fell afoul of Wordsworth's The Idiot Boy: — "A moonstruck, silly lad, who lost his way, And like his bard, confounded night with day; So close on each pathetic part he dwells, And each adventure so sublimely tells, That all who view the idiot in his glory Conceive the bard the hero of the story," and a few lines below he declines to pass Coleridge unnoticed : — " Though themes of innocence amuse him best, Yet still obscurity's a welcome guest." In his private copy Byron afterward wrote " unjust " after the foregoing passages. e. A poem by Coleridge, To William Wordsworth, begins : " Friend of the wise ! and teacher of the good ! " /. At the dramatic falling out of Burke and Fox in the British Parliament, Fox fervently declared, " He has taught me more than all my books." g. Lamb wrote to Coeridge : " You will find your x INTRODUCTION old associate, in his second volume, dwindled into prose and criticism. ... or is it that as years come upon us, Life itself loses much of its Poetry for us ? We transcribe but what we read in the great volume of Nature; and as the characters grow dim, we turn off, and look another way. You. yourself write no Christabels nor Ancient Mariners now ; " and then Lamb looks back to the time " when life was fresh, and topics exhaustless, and you first kindled in me, if not the power, yet the love of poetry, and beauty, and kindliness." In one of his essays we read : " If thy heart overfloweth to lend them, lend thy books; but let it be to such a one as S. T. C. (Cole- ridge) : he will return them with usury, enriched with annotations tripling their value. I have had experience." Concerning the single but random sketch at the introduction of each author I would say, it is easily skipped but I hope that will not be its uniform fate. The footnotes might have been included in the above gracious hint and protest. To give aid to those who need it is their one purpose. Something can be said in an endeavor to justify the existence of notes, but it is much easier to be witty in the negative and show examples of annotation run wild. I suppose that the proper note is the one which aptly meets a question when the answer cannot be drawn from the context and is not found in a common diction- ary ; which gives just what help is needed for the full comprehension of the passage. In poetry, the offense is not beyond the benefit of clergy if the note, though not needed as above, show, since the style counts for so much, some other man's way of saying the same thing, or if it point to the spring at which our author drank. But INTRODUCTION xi " the fact is " that, like that of the man in Hudibras, " my preaching isn't sanctioned (always) by my practice." No one enjoys poetry to the limit of his privilege who does not note closely, and observe in his reading, the meter ; and, when rhyme is used, the scheme thereof, so that the ear may expect such and such a sequence of sounds and be pleased by it. Obedience to a rule we see at railway crossings : " Stop, look, and listen," will win much gratification at small cost in reading poetry aloud, and that's the more excellent way. The reader will now and then come upon a word marked with a minute circle, — a kindly hint that the dictionary is a good adviser right here. Many of these words are used in a sense different from their ordinary meaning ; for an example, Lamb's phrase, " reducing childhood," where " reducing " is plain Latin for " bring- ing back." This book goes out with the wish that it may be a source of pleasure and profit to many, and that it will tend to confirm them in the habit of reading and reading again. In that direction culture lies. B. ^? LORD BYRON. LORD BYRON. 1 788- 1 824. The story of the life of Lord Byron is one of exceed- ing interest, and it is one not at all well known, even by thousands who occasionally read and in some degree appreciate certain of his writings. The plan of this book, however, prevents any attempt at even a brief sketch. Born in 1788, the year of the first settlement in our great Northwest Territory, he died in 1824; a life, short, but full of labors. Byron laid his first literary product before the pub- lic in 1807, Hours of Idleness, by name. In a curious preface he says, " With slight hopes and some fears, I publish this first and last attempt." Whatever the merits and demerits of these poems, some of them are certainly remarkable, coming from a boy. Still, in one or two instances, boys of his age have done better. The Edinburgh Review sarcastically denied the right of the little book to exist, doubtless thought to cut that existence short and to confirm Byron in the resolution contained in the sentence just quoted. Following are two or three of its bitter comments : — " The poesy of this young lord belongs to the class which neither gods nor men are said to permit. Indeed, we do not recollect to have seen a quantity of verse with so few deviations in either direction from that exact standard. " We must beg leave seriously to assure him, that 4 LORD BYRON the mere rhyming of the final syllable, even when accom- panied by the presence of a certain number of feet, . . . is not the whole art of poetry. We would entreat him to believe that a certain portion of liveliness, some- what of fancy, is necessary to constitute a poem, and that a poem in the present day, to be read, must contain at least one thought, either in a little degree different from the ideas of former writers, or differently ex- pressed." There was some Ossianic poetry, as the Review terms it, in the thin volume. Relative to this it declares itself no judge, yet calling up in evidence some passages, it goes so far as to venture this opinion in their favor : " They look very like Macpherson ; and we are positive they are pretty nearly as stupid and tiresome." The " young lord " did not receive his lecture with the slightest degree of meekness. Seizing his weapon of defense, — and offense, — in English Bards and Scotch Reviezvers, he rushed to the fray. In what he says to the latter class of literary folk he is giving an eye for an eye, but he stoutly rang his spear against the shields of the former, and, sometimes, unfortunately, in lines much easier retained in one's memory. His war- cry was — "Prepare for rhyme — I'll publish right or wrong; Fools are my theme, let satire be my song." The critic of the Review roused him to show the world that he had in him stuff that did not deserve the Review's cruel taunts, and his reply was the begin- ning of his fame. Some of his more prominent poetic creations are, The Prisoner of Chillon, The Corsair, The Lament of LORD BYRON 5 Tasso, Marino Falicro, Cain, Don Juan, and, last named, but surely the greatest, Childe Harold. Among Byron's intimate literary associates were Moore, Shelley, Keats, and Leigh Hunt. With Scott he had some personal acquaintance. Scott's nom de plume did not conceal from Byron the author of Waverley, and Scott, so the story runs, said that he ceased the writing of stirring metrical romances, " because Byron beat me." Though led bodily captive by his own passions, Byron's tumultuous soul beat strong for human liberty. His message to peoples under oppression's iron hand was : — Hereditary bondsmen ! know ye not Who would be free themselves must strike the blow ? When Greece, long in servitude to the tyrant at Constantinople " struck the blow," Byron threw himself with ardor into their cause, giving to its furtherance his time, energy, and money. What might have been a brilliant military career was checked in its outburst. Byron died of a fever at Misso- longhi, in the spring of 1824. Childe 1 Harold's Pilgrimage CANTO THE THIRD. 2 Is thy face like thy mother's, my fair child, l Ada, sole daughter of my house and heart? When last I saw thy young blue eyes they smiled, And then we parted, — not as now we part, But with a hope. — Awaking with a start, The waters heave around me, and on high The winds lift up their voices : I depart, 3 Whither I know not ; but the hour's gone by When Albion's lessening shores could grieve or glad mine eye. Once more upon the waters, — yet once more! I0 And the waves bound beneath me as a steed That knows his rider. Welcome to their roar ! Swift be their guidance, wheresoe'er it lead ! Tho' the strain'd mast should quiver as a reed, And the rent canvas fluttering strew the gale, Still must I on ; for I am as a weed, Flung from the rock, on Ocean's foam to sail Where'er the surge may sweep, the tempest's breath prevail. 1 Once meant a noble youth. " Used here as more consonant with the old structure of the versification which I have adopted." — Byron. 2 Written at Geneva. 3 1816. Byron left England — "Albion" — never to return. 7 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE In my youth's summer I did sing of One, 4 I9 The wandering outlaw of his own dark mind ; Again 5 I seize the theme then but begun, And bear it with me, as the rushing wind Bears the cloud onward: in that Tale I find The furrows of long thought, and dried-up tears, Which, ebbing, leave a sterile track behind, O'er which all heavily the journeying years Plod the last sands of life, — where not a flower appears. Since my young days of passion — joy, or pain — 28 Perchance my heart and harp have lost a string, And both may jar; it may be that in vain I would essay as I have sung to sing. Yet, though a dreary strain, to this I cling; So that it wean G me from the weary dream Of selfish grief or gladness — so it fling Forgetfulness around me — it shall seem To me, tho' to none else, a not ungrateful theme. He who, grown aged in this world of woe, 37 In deeds, not years, piercing the depths of life, So that no wonder waits him, 7 nor below Can love, or sorrow, fame, ambition, strife, Cut to his heart again with the keen knife Of silent, sharp endurance, — he can tell Why thought 8 seeks refuge in lone caves, 8 yet rife 4 Childe Harold, in Cantos I and II. ~° Eight years from time of beginning. 6 Alleged purpose. 7 Has seen them all. 8 " From the deep caves of thought." — Holmes. LORD BYRON 9 With airy ° images and shapes ° which dwell Still unimpair'd, tho' old, in the soul's haunted cell. Something too much of this : — but now 't is past, 46 And the spell closes with its silent seal. Long-absent Harold reappears at last, He of the breast which fain no more would feel, Wrung with the wounds which kill not, but ne'er . heal ; Yet Time, who changes all, had alter'd him In soul and aspect as in age : years steal Fire from the mind as vigor from the limb, And life's enchanted cup but sparkles near the brim. 10 Where rose the mountains, there to him were ss friends ; Where roll'd the ocean, thereon was his home ; X1 Where a blue sky, and glowing clime, extends, He had the passion and the power to roam ; The desert, forest, cavern, breaker's foam, Were unto him companionship ; they spake A mutual language, clearer than the tome° Of his land's tongue, which he would oft forsake For Nature's pages glass'd by sunbeams on the lake. Like the Chaldean, he could watch the stars, 64 Till he had peopled them with beings bright As their own beams ; and earth, and earth-born jars, 9 " Of calling shapes, and beck'ning shadows dire, And airy tongues that syllable men's names." — Milton. 10 The brim is youth; age and staleness lie beneath. 11 " His hearth, the earth, his hall, the azure dome." — Emerson. » CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE And human frailties were forgotten quite: Could he have kept his spirit to that flight, He had been happy; but this clay will sink Its spark immortal, envying it the light To which it mounts, as if to break the link That keeps us from yon heaven which woos us to its brink. Stop! ]2 — for thy tread is on an Empire's dust! 73 An earthquake's spoil is sepulchered below ! Is the spot mark'd 13 with no colossal bust, Nor column trophied for triumphal show? None, — but the moral's truth tells simpler so ; As the ground was before, thus let it be ; — How that red rain hath made the harvest grow ! And is this all the world has gain'd by thee, Thou first and last of fields, king-making Victory? There was a sound of revelry 14 by night, 82 And Belgium's capital had gather'd then 15 Her Beauty and Her Chivalry, and bright The lamps shone o'er fair women and brave men ; A thousand hearts beat happily ; and when Music arose with its voluptuous swell, Soft eyes look'd love to eyes which spake again, And all went merry as a marriage-bell ; But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell ! 12 Abrupt as the explosion of a cannon. 13 Is it yet unmarked ? 14 " On the night previous to the action it is said that a ball was given at Brussels." — Byron. 15 " In spite of rhyme," often quoted, " gather'd there." LORD BYRON n Did ye not hear it ? — No ; 'twas but the wind, 9I Or the car rattling o'er the stony street ; On with the dance! let joy be unconfined ; TMo sleep till morn, when Youth and Pleasure meet To chase the glowing Hours with flying feet. — But hark ! — that heavy sound breaks in once more, As if the clouds its echo would repeat ; And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before! Arm ! arm ! it is — it is — the cannon's opening roar ! Ah, then and there was hurrying to and fro, I0 ° And gathering tears, and tremblings of distress, And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago Blush'd at the praise of their own loveliness ; And there were sudden partings, such as press The life from out young hearts, and choking sighs Which ne'er might be repeated ; who could guess If ever more should meet those mutual eyes, 16 Since upon night so sweet such awful morn could rise? And there was mounting in hot haste : the steed, I0 9 The mustering squadron, and the clattering car, Went pouring forward with impetuous speed, And swiftly forming in the ranks of war; And the deep thunder peal on peal afar, And near, the beat of the alarming drum Roused up the soldier ere the morning star ; While throng'd the citizens with terror dumb, Or whispering, with white lips — " The foe ! they come ! they come ! " If those eyes now meeting should ever meet again. CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE And Ardennes 17 waves above them her green II8 leaves, Dewy with Nature's tear-drops, as they pass, Grieving, if aught inanimate e'er grieves, Over the unreturning brave, — alas ! Ere evening to be trodden like the grass Which now beneath them, but above shall grow In its next verdure, when this fiery mass Of living valor, rolling on the foe And burning with high hope, shall molder cold and low. Last noon beheld them full of lusty life, 127 Last eve in Beauty's circle proudly gay ; The midnight brought the signal-sound of strife, The morn the marshaling in arms, — the day Battle's magnificently 1S stern array ! The thunder-clouds close o'er it, which when rent The earth is cover'd thick with other clay, 19 Which her own clay shall cover, heap'd and pent, Rider and horse, — friend, foe, — in one red burial blent ! Their praise is hymn'd by loftier harps than mine ; 13<5 Yet one I would select from that proud throng, Partly because they blend me with his line, And partly that I did his sire some wrong, And partly that bright names will hallow song; 17 " The wood of Soignies is supposed to be a remnant of the ' forest of Arden,' immortal in ' As You Like It.' " — Byron. Pro- nounced " Arden." 18 Note the force of the long, strong word. . M Explained in the last line of the stanza. LORD BYRON 13 And his was of the bravest, and when shower'd The death-bolts deadliest the thinn'd files along, Even where the thickest of war's tempest lower'd, They reach'd no nobler breast than thine, young gal- lant Howard ! There have been tears and breaking hearts for I4 $ thee, And mine were nothing, had I such to give ; But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around me the wide field revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive, With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turn'd from all she brought to those 20 she could not bring. There sunk the greatest, nor the worst of men, IS4 Whose spirit, antithetically mixt, One moment of the mightiest, and again On little objects with like firmness fixt ; Extreme in all things ! hadst thou been betwixt, Thy throne had still been thine, or never been ; For daring made thy rise as fall ; thou seek'st Even now 21 to reassume the imperial mien, And shake the world, the Thunderer of the scene ! 20 " The place where Major Howard fell was not far from two tall and solitary trees. Beneath these he died and was buried. I went on horseback twice over the field, comparing it with my recollection of similar scenes. Waterloo seems marked out for the scene of some great action, though this may be imagination." — Byron. 21 What scene in Napoleon's great world drama is here pointed out? i 4 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Oh, more or less than man — in high or low, l63 Battling with nations, flying from the field; Now making monarchs' necks thy footstool, now More than thy meanest soldier taught to yield ; An empire thou couldst crush, command, rebuild, But govern 22 not thy pettiest passion, nor, However deeply in men's spirits skill'd, Look through thine own, nor curb the lust of war, Nor learn that tempted Fate will leave the loftiest star ! 23 If, like a tower upon a headlong rock, ^ 2 Thou hadst been made to stand or fall alone, Such scorn of man had help'd to brave the shock ; But men's thoughts 24 were the steps which paved thy throne, Their admiration thy best weapon shone : The part of Philip's son was thine, not then, — Unless aside thy purple had been thrown, — Like stern Diogenes to mock at men; For sceptered cynics, earth were far too wide a den. He who ascends to mountain-tops shall find lSl The loftiest peaks most wrapt in clouds and snow ; He who surpasses or subdues mankind Must look down on the hate of those below. Though high above the sun of glory glow, And far beneath the earth and ocean spread, 22 Bible allusion ; quote it or hunt it. 23 Desert a man when at the pinnacle of his fame. 24 Napoleon, at the height, seemed to scorn men and their thoughts. He might conquer the world like Alexander, but needed only a tub to imitate Diogenes. LORD BYRON 15 Round him are icy rocks, and loudly blow Contending tempests on his naked head, And thus reward the toils which to those summits led. Away with these ! true Wisdom's world will be I9 ° Within its own creation, — or in thine, Maternal Nature ! for who teems like thee, Thus on the banks of thy majestic Rhine? There Harold gazes on a work divine, A blending of all beauties : streams and dells, Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, cornfield, mountain, vine, And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells From gray but leafy walls, where Ruin greenly dwells. But thou, exulting and abounding river! I99 Making thy waves a blessing as they flow Through banks whose beauty would endure forever Could man but leave thy bright creation so, Nor its fair promise from the surface mow With the sharp scythe of conflict, — then to see Thy valley of sweet waters were to know Earth 25 paved like heaven ; and to seem such to me, Even now what wants thy stream? — that it should Lethe 26 be. By Coblentz, on a rise of gentle ground, 2o8 There is a small and simple pyramid, Crowning the summit of the verdant mound ; Beneath its base are heroes' ashes hid, Our enemy's, — but let not that forbid 25 " Earth is crammed with Heaven." — Mrs. Browning. 20 Byron would forget the past, and Lethe is the river of oblivion. 1 6 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Honor to Marceau, 27 o'er whose early tomb Tears, big tears, gush'd from the rough soldier's lid, Lamenting and yet envying such a doom, Falling for France, whose rights he battled to resume. Brief, brave, and glorious was his young career, 2I ? His mourners were two hosts, his friends and foes ; And fitly may the stranger lingering here Pray for his gallant spirit's bright repose : For he was Freedom's champion, one of those, The few in number, who had not o'erstept The charter to chastise which she bestows On such as wield her weapons ; he had kept The whiteness of his soul, and thus men o'er him wept. Here Ehrenbreitstein, 28 with her shatter'd wall 226 Black with the miner's blast, upon her height Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball Rebounding idly on her strength did light ; A tower of victory, from whence the flight Of baffled foes was watch'd along the plain! But Peace destroy'd what War could never blight, And laid those proud roofs bare to Summer's rain, On which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain. Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted 23S The stranger fain would linger on his way! 27 The monument of the young and lamented General Marceau, killed on the last day of the fourth year of the Republic, still re- mains. The inscriptions are rather too long, and not required ; his name was enough. — Byron. 28 Ehrenbreitstein, one of the strongest fortresses in Europe, was blown up by the French at the truce of Leoben. — Byron. LORD BYRON 17 Thine is a scene alike where souls united Or lonely Contemplation 29 thus might stray ; And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey On self-condemning bosoms, it were here, Where Nature, nor too somber nor too gay, Wild but not rude, awful yet not austere, Is to the mellow earth as Autumn to the year. Adieu to thee again ! — a vain 30 adieu ! 244 There can be no farewell to scene like thine; The mind is color'd by thine every hue, And if reluctantly the eyes resign Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine, 'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise : More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, But none united in one attaching maze The brilliant, fair, and soft, — the glories of old days, The negligently grand, the fruitful bloom 2 ^i Of coming ripeness, the white city's sheen, The rolling stream, the precipice's gloom, The forest's growth and Gothic walls between, The wild rocks shaped as they had turrets been In mockery 31 of man's art ; and these withal A race of faces happy as the scene, Whose fertile bounties here extend to all, Still springing o'er thy banks, though empires near them fall. 29 " by lonely Contemplation led." — Gray. 30 Why "vain"? 31 " No mortal builder's most rare device Could match this winter-palace of ice." — Lowell. 1 8 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE But these recede. 32 Above me are the Alps, 262 The palaces of Nature, whose vast walls Have pinnacled in clouds their snowy scalps, And throned Eternity in icy halls Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls The avalanche — the thunderbolt of snow ! All that expands the spirit, yet appals, Gather around these summits, as to show How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave vain man below. Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, 271 The mirror where the stars and mountains view The stillness of their aspect in each trace Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue. There is too much of man here, to look through With a fit mind the might which I behold ; But soon in me shall loneliness renew Thoughts hid, but not less cherished than of old, Ere mingling 33 with the herd had penn'd me in their fold. I live not in myself, but I become 28 ° Portion of that around me ; and to me High mountains are a feeling, but the hum Of human cities torture ; I can see Nothing to loathe in Nature, save to be A link reluctant in a fleshly chain, 32 1 leave them, the beauties of the Rhine, for the sublimities of the Alps. 33 " with low-thoughted care Confined, and pestered in this pinfold here." — Milton. LORD BYRON 19 Class'd among creatures, when the soul can flee, And with the sky, the peak, the heaving plain Of ocean, or the stars, mingle, and not in vain. Are not the mountains, waves, and skies a part 28 9 Of me 34 and of my soul, as I of them? Is not the love of these deep in my heart With a pure passion? should I not contemn All objects, if compared with these? and stem A tide of suffering, rather than forego Such feelings for the hard and worldly phlegm Of those whose eyes are only turn'd below, Gazing upon the ground, with thoughts which dare not glow ? Clear, placid Leman ! thy contrasted lake 35 2g8 With the wild world I dwelt in is a thing Which warns me, with its stillness, to forsake Earth's troubled waters for a purer spring. This quiet sail is as a noiseless wing To waft me from distraction ; once I loved Torn Ocean's roar, but thy soft murmuring Sounds sweet as if a sister's voice reproved, That I with stern delights should e'er have been so moved. It is' the hush of night, and all between 3 ° 7 Thy margin and the mountains, dusk, yet clear, Mellow'd and mingling, yet .distinctly seen, Save darken'd Jura, whose capt 3G heights appear 34 " I am a part of all that I have met." — Tennyson's Ulysses. 35 Thy lake contrasted with. 30 With what ? 3 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Precipitously steep ; and drawing near, There breathes a living fragrance from the shore Of flowers yet fresh with childhood ; on the ear Drops the light drip of the suspended oar, Or chirps the grasshopper one good-night carol more. He is an evening reveler, who makes 3l6 His life an infancy, and sings his fill ; At intervals, some bird from out the brakes Starts into voice a moment, then is still. There seems a floating whisper on the hill, But that is fancy, for the starlight dews All silently their tears of love instill, Weeping themselves away, till they infuse Deep into Nature's breast the spirit of her hues. Ye stars, which are the poetry of heaven! 325 If in your bright leaves we would read the fate Of men and empires, — 'tis to be forgiven, That in our aspirations to be great Our destinies o'erleap their mortal state, And claim a kindred with you ; for ye are A beauty and a mystery, and create In us such love and reverence from afar, That fortune, fame, power, life, have named themselves a star. All heaven and earth are still — though not in 334 sleep, # But breathless, as we grow when feeling most, And silent, as we stand in thoughts too deep : — All heaven and earth are still ; from the high host Of stars, to the lull'd lake and mountain-coast, LORD BYRON 21 All is concentered in a life intense, Where not a beam, nor air, nor leaf is lost, But hath a part of being, and a sense Of that which is of all Creator and defense. The sky is changed ! — and such a change ! O 343 night, And storm, and darkness, ye are wondrous strong, Yet lovely in your strength, as is the light Of a dark eye in woman ! Far along, From peak to peak, the rattling crags among, Leaps the live thunder ! not from one lone cloud, But every mountain now hath found a tongue, And Jura 37 answers, through her misty shroud, Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud! And this is in the night. — Most glorious night ! 352 Thou wert not sent for slumber ! let me be A sharer in thy fierce and far delight, — A portion of the tempest and of thee ! How the lit lake shines, a phosphoric sea, And the big rain comes dancing to the earth ! And now again 'tis black, 38 — and now the glee Of the loud hills shakes with its mountain-mirth, As if they did rejoice o'er a young earthquake's birth. Now where the swift Rhone cleaves his way 361 between Heights which appear as lovers 39 who have parted In hate, whose mining depths so intervene ""darkened Jura." Line 310. 38 What is? BU Compare with this stanza, Christabel, Part the Second, Lines 411-429. Can this be one of those mooted passages spoken of in Coleridge's Preface? > CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE That they can meet no more, tho' broken-hearted ; Though in their souls, which thus each other thwarted, Love was the very root of the fond rage Which blighted their life's bloom and then departed ; Itself expired, but leaving them an age Of years all winters., — war within themselves to wage. Now where the quick Rhone thus hath cleft his 37 ° way, -The mightiest of the storms hath ta'en his stand : For here, not one, but many, make their play, And fling their thunderbolts from hand to hand, Flashing and cast around ; of all the band, The brightest through these parted hills hath fork'd His lightnings, — as if he did understand That in such gaps as desolation work'd There the hot shaft should blast whatever therein lurk'd. Sky, mountains, river, winds, lake, lightnings ! ye, 379 With night, and clouds, and thunder, and a soul To make these felt and feeling, well may be Things that have made me watchful ; the far roll Of your departing voices is the knoll Of what in me is sleepless, — if I rest. But where of ye, O tempests, is the goal? Are ye like those within the human breast Or do ye find at length, like eagles, some high nest? Could I embody and unbosom now 388 That which is most within me, — could I wreak My thoughts upon expression, and thus throw Soul, heart, mind, passions, feelings, strong or weak. LORD BYRON 23 All that I would have sought, and all I seek, Bear, know, feel, and yet breathe — into one word, And that one word were Lightning, I would speak ; But as it is, I live and die unheard, With a most voiceless thought, sheathing it as a sword. The morn is up again, the dewy morn, 397 With breath all incense and with cheek all bloom, Laughing the clouds away with playful scorn, And living as if earth contain'd no tomb, — And glowing into clay ; we may resume The march of our existence : and thus I, Still on thy shores, fair Leman, may find room And food for meditation, nor pass by Much that may give us pause, if ponder'd fittingly. Clarens, sweet Clarens, birthplace of deep Love ! 4 ° 6 Thine air is the young breath of passionate thought ; Thy trees take root in Love ; the snows above The very glaciers have his colors caught, And sunset into rose-hues 40 sees them wrought By rays which sleep there lovingly : the rocks, The permanent crags, tell here of Love, who sought In them a refuge from the worldly shocks Which stir and sting the soul with hope that woos, then mocks. Clarens, by heavenly feet thy paths are trod, — 4 ' 5 40 Rousseau has written it, " une belle coulcur de rose," as the tint of the mountain tops. 24 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Undying Love's, 41 who here ascends a throne To which the steps are mountains ; where the god Is a pervading life and light, — so shown Not on those summits solely, nor alone In the still cave and forest; o'er the flower His eye is sparkling and his breath hath blown, His soft and summer breath, whose tender pow*er Passes the strength of storms in their most desolate hour. All things are here of him; from the black pines, 424 Which are his shade on high, and the loud roar Of torrents, where he listeneth, to the vines Which slope his green path downward to the shore, Where the bow'd waters meet him and adore, Kissing his feet with murmurs ; and the wood, The covert of old trees, with trunks all hoar, But light leaves young as joy, stands where it stood, Offering to him and his a populous solitude. He who hath loved not here would learn that 433 lore, And make his heart a spirit; he who knows That tender mystery will love the more, — For this is Love's recess, where vain men's woes, And the world's waste, have driven him far from those, For 'tis his nature to advance or die ; He stands not still, but or decays or grows 41 Elsewhere, in praise of mountains, Byron wrote : " It is to be recollected that the most beautiful and impressive doctrines of the divine Founder of Christianity, were delivered, not in the Temple, but on the Mount." LORD BYRON 25 Into a boundless blessing, which may vie With the immortal lights in its eternity ! 'Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot, 442 Peopling it with affections, but he found It was the scene which Passion must allot To the mind's purified beings ; 'twas the ground Where early Love his Psyche's zone unbound, And hallow'd it with loveliness : 'tis lone, And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound, And sense, and sight of sweetness ; here the Rhone Hath spread himself a couch, the Alps have rear'd a throne. Lausanne and Ferney, 42 ye have been the abodes 4SI Of names which unto you bequeath'd a name ; Mortals who sought and found, by dangerous roads, A path to perpetuity of fame : They were gigantic minds, and their steep aim Was, Titan-like, on daring doubts to pile Thoughts which should call down thunder, and the flame Of Heaven again assail'd, if Heaven the while On man and man's research could deign do more than smile. But let me quit man's works, again to read 46 ° His Maker's, spread around me, and suspend This page, which from my reveries I feed Until it seems prolonging without end. The clouds above me to the white Alps tend, And I must pierce them and survey whate'er Voltaire and Gibbon. 26 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE May be permitted, as my steps I bend To their most great and growing region, where The earth to her embrace compels the powers of air. Italia, too, Italia! looking on thee, 4<5e Full flashes on the soul the light of ages, Since the fierce Carthaginian 43 almost won thee, To the last halo of the chiefs and sages 44 Who glorify thy consecrated pages : Thou wert the throne and grave of empires ; still The fount at which the panting mind i5 assuages Her thirst of knowledge, quaffing there her fill, Flows from the eternal source of Rome's imperial hill. Thus far have I proceeded in a theme 478 Renew'd with no kind auspices : — to feel We are not what we have been, and to deem We are not what we should be, and to steel The heart against itself; and to conceal, With a proud caution, love, or hate, or aught — Passion or feeling, purpose, grief, or zeal — Which is the tyrant spirit of our thought, Is a stern task of soul. — No matter, — it is taught. And for these words, thus woven into song, 487 It may be that they are a harmless wile, — The coloring of the scenes which fleet along, Which I would seize, in passing, to beguile My breast, or that of others, for a while. 43 Hannibal. 44 Poets, orators, historians, philosophers. 45 " Mind," feminine, anima? "Animus est quo sapimus, anima, quo vivimus." - — Longimus. LORD BYRON 27 Fame 4fi is the thirst of youth, but I am not So young as to regard men's frown or smile As loss or guerdon of a glorious lot ; I stood and stand alone, — remember'd or forgot. I have not loved the world, nor the world me; ^ 6 I have not flatter'd its rank breath, nor bow'd To its idolatries a patient knee, Nor coin'd my cheek to smiles, nor cried aloud In worship of an echo ; in the crowd They could not deem me one of such ; I stood Among them, but not of them, in a shroud Of thoughts which were not their thoughts, and still could, Had I not filed 4T my mind, which thus itself subdued. I have not loved the world, nor the world me, — s ° 5 But let us part fair foes ; I do believe, Though I have found them not, that there may be Words which are things, hopes which will not de- ceive, And virtues which are merciful, nor weave Snares for the failing : I would also deem O'er others' griefs that some sincerely grieve ; That two, or one, are almost what they seem, — That goodness is no name, and happiness no dream. My daughter! with thy name this song begun; SI4 My daughter ! with thy name thus much shall end ; Fame is the spur that the clear spirit doth raise (That last infirmity of noble mind) To scorn delights, and live laborious days." — Milton's Lycidas. ' For Banquo's issue have I filed my mind." — Shakespeare. 28 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE I see thee not, I hear thee not, but none Can be so wrapt in thee ; thou are the friend To whom the shadows of far years extend : Albeit my brow thou never shouldst behold, My voice shall with thy future visions blend, And reach into thy heart when mine is cold, — A token and a tone, even from thy father's mold. To aid thy mind's development, to watch 523 Thy dawn of little joys, to sit and see Almost thy very growth, to view thee catch Knowledge of objects, — wonders yet to thee! To hold thee lightly on a gentle knee, And print on thy soft cheek a parent's kiss, — This it should seem, was not reserved for me; ' Yet this was in my nature : — as it is, I know not what is there, yet something like to this. CANTO THE FOURTH. I stood in Venice, 1 on the Bridge 2 of Sighs ; ' A palace and a prison on each hand : I saw from out the wave her structures rise As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand : A thousand years their cloudy wings expand Around me, and a dying glory smiles O'er the far times when many a subject land Look'd to the winged Lion's 3 marble piles, Where Venice sate in state, throned on her hundred isles ! She looks a sea Cybele, 4 fresh from ocean, I0 Rising with her tiara of proud towers At airy distance, with majestic motion, A ruler of the waters and their powers : And such she was ; her daughters had their dowers From spoils of nations, and the exhaustless East Pour'd in her lap all gems in sparkling showers. In purple was she robed, and of her feast Monarchs partook, and deem'd their dignity increased. 1 This Canto was written at Venice. " Everything about Venice is, or was, extraordinary — her aspect is like a dream, and her his- tory is like a romance." — From preface to Marino Faliero. 2 The communication between the ducal palace and the prisons of Venice is by a gloomy bridge, or covered gallery, high above the water, and divided by a stone wall into a passage and a cell. . . . The low portal through which the criminal was taken into this cell is now walled up, but the passage is still open, and is still known by the name of the Bridge of Sighs. — Byron. 8 The Lion of St. Mark, the standard of the republic. 4 Mother of the gods ; presided over mountain fastnesses. 29 30 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE In Venice Tasso's 5 echoes are no more, I9 And silent rows the songless gondolier ; Her palaces are crumbling to the shore, And music meets not always now the ear : Those days are gone — but Beauty still is here. States fall, arts fade — but Nature doth not die, Nor yet forget how Venice once was dear, The pleasant place of all festivity, The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy ! But unto us she hath a- spell beyond 28 Her name in story, and her long array Of mighty shadows, whose dim forms despond Above the dogeless city's vanish'd sway : Ours is a trophy which will not decay With the Rialto ; Shylock and the Moor, And Pierre, cannot be swept 6 or worn away — The keystones of the arch ! though all were o'er, ■ For us repeopled were the solitary shore. The beings of the mind are not of clay ; 37 Essentially immortal, they create And multiply in us a brighter ray And more beloved existence : that which Fate Prohibits to dull life, in this our state Of mortal bondage, by these spirits supplied, First exiles, then replaces what we hate; 5 " In Venice the gondoliers know by heart long passages from Ariosto and Tasso, and often chant them with a peculiar melody. If Lord Byron's statement be not more poetical than true, it must have occurred at a moment when their last political change may have occasioned this silence on the waters." — Disraeli's Curiosities of Literature. 6 Embodied in immortal literature. LORD BYRON 31 Watering the heart whose early flowers have died, And with a fresher growth replenishing the void. Before Saint Mark 7 still glow his steeds of brass, 46 Their gilded collars glittering in the sun ; But is not Doria's 8 menace come to pass ? Are they not bridled? — Venice, 9 lost and won, Her thirteen hundred years of freedom done, Sinks, like a seaweed, into whence she rose ! Better be whelm'd beneath the waves, and shun, Even in destruction's depth, her foreign foes, From whom submission wrings an infamous repose. When Athens' armies fell at Syracuse, 55 And fetter'd thousands bore the yoke of war, Redemption rose up in the Attic Muse, 9a Her voice their only ransom from afar : See ! as they chant the tragic hymn, the car Of the o'ermaster'd victor stops, the reins Fall from his hands, his idle scimitar Starts from its belt — he rends his captive's chains, And bids him thank the bard for freedom and his strains. Thus, Venice, if no stronger claim were thine, 64 Were all thy proud historic deeds forgot, Thy choral memory of the Bard divine, 7 The great cathedral, with its mighty steeds of brass. 8 In 1379, when Venice offered to surrender on any terms leav- ing her her independence, Doria, commander of the Genoese, replied : " No peace till we have first put a rein on those unbridled horses of yours." But he did not do it. What then does Byron mean ? "Venice ceased to be free in 1796, the fifth year of the French republic. "a Plutarch tells the story in his life of Nicias. 32 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Thy love of Tasso, should have cut the knot 10 Which ties thee to thy tyrants ; and thy lot Is shameful to the nations, — most of all, Albion, to thee ! the Ocean Queen should not Abandon Ocean's children ; in the fall Of Venice think of thine, 11 despite thy watery wall. The moon is up, and yet it is not night, — 73 Sunset divides the sky with her, — a sea Of glory streams along the Alpine height Of blue Friuli's mountains ; heaven is free From clouds, but of all colors seems to be, — Melted to one vast Iris of the West, Where the day joins the past eternity; 12 While, on the other hand, 13 meek Dian's crest Floats thro' the azure air — an island of the blest ! A single star is at her side, and reigns 82 With her o'er half the lovely heaven ; but still Yon sunny sea heaves brightly, and remains Roll'd o'er the peak of the far Rhastian hill, As Day and Night contending were, until Nature reclaim'd her order : — gently flows The deep-dyed Brenta, where their 14 hues instill The odorous purple of a new-born rose, Which streams upon her stream, and glass'd within it glows, 10 Venice's love of Tasso should have gained her a champion — England. 11 A gloomy prophecy, not yet come true. 13 And becomes yesterday. 13 The east. Moon nearing her full. "Day and Night. LORD BYRON 33 Fill'd with the face of heaven, which, from afar, 91 Comes down upon the waters; all its hues, From the rich sunset to the rising star, Their magical variety diffuse : And now they change ; a paler shadow strews Its mantle o'er the mountains ; parting Day Dies like the dolphin, whom each pang imbues With a new color as it gasps away, The last still loveliest, till — 'tis gone — and all is gray. There is a tomb in Arqua ; — rear'd in air, I0 ° Pillar'd in their sarcophagus, repose The bones of Laura's lover : 15 here repair Many familiar with his well-sung woes, The pilgrims of his genius. He arose To raise 16 a language, and his land reclaim From the dull yoke of her barbaric foes : Watering the tree 1T which bears his lady's name With his melodious tears, he gave himself to fame. They keep his dust in Arqua, where he died, I09 The mountain-village where his latter days Went down the vale of years ; and 'tis their pride — An honest pride — and let it be their praise, To offer to the passing stranger's gaze His mansion and his sepulcher ; both plain And venerably simple, such as raise A feeling more accordant with his strain Than if a pyramid form'd his monumental fane. 15 Petrarch, first and greatest lyric poet of Italy, born 1304. 10 As Chaucer did. 17 The laurel. 3 34 CHILD E HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Ferrara, ls in thy wide and grass-grown streets, II8 Whose symmetry was not for solitude, 19 There seems as 't were a curse upon the seats Of former sovereigns, and the antique brood Of Este, 20 which for many an age made good Its strength within thy walls, and was of yore Patron or tyrant, as the changing mood Of petty power impell'd, of those who wore The wreath which Dante's brow alone had worn before. And Tasso 21 is their glory and their shame. 21 I2 ~ Hark to his strain, — and then survey his cell ! And see how dearly earn'd Torquato's fame, And where Alfonso bade his poet dwell ; The miserable despot 22 could not quell The insulted mind he sought to quench, and blend With the surrounding maniacs, in the hell Where he had plunged it. Glory without end Scatter'd the clouds away — and on that name attend The tears and praises of all time; while thine ^ 6 Would rot in its oblivion — in the sink Of worthless dust, which from thy boasted line 1S Ducal seat of Alfonso. 19 An architectural flower not " born to blush unseen." 20 The ducal family. "\Tasso was confined in a madman's cell in the hospital at Ferrara. " While thou, Ferrara ! when no longer dwell The ducal chiefs within thee, shalt fall down, A poet's wreath shall be thine only crown, A poet's dungeon thy most far renown." — The Lament of Tasso. " : With the next fourteen lines compare Shelley's branding of Keats's critic, Adonais, lines 325-342. LORD BYRON 35 Is shaken into nothing; but the link Thou formest in his fortunes bids us think Of thy poor malice, naming thee with scorn : Alfonso, how thy ducal pageants shrink From thee ! if in another station born, Scarce fit to be the slave of him thou madest to mourn ! Thou, form'd to eat, and be despised, and die, I45 Even as the beasts that perish, save that thou Had'st a more splendid trough and wider sty ! He, with a glory round his furrow'd brow, Which emanated then, and dazzles now, In face of all his foes, the Cruscan 23 quire, And Boileau, 24 whose rash envy could allow No strain which shamed his country's creaking lyre, That whetstone of the teeth — monotony in wire ! Peace to Torquato's injured shade! 'twas his '54 In life and death to be the mark where Wrong Aim'd with her poison'd arrows, — but to miss. O victor unsurpass'd in modern song ! Each year brings forth its millions ; but how long The tide of generations shall roll on, And not the whole combined and countless throng Compose a mind like thine ! though all in one Condensed their scatter'd rays, they would not form a sun. Great as thou art, yet parallel'd by those, l6 * Thy countrymen, before thee born to shine, Cruscan academy who sought to degrade Tasso. French critic, — he speaks of " le clinquant du Tasse.' 3 6 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE The Bards of Hell 25 and Chivalry : 26 first rose The Tuscan father's Comedy Divine; Then, not unequal to the Florentine, The southern Scott, 27 the minstrel who call'd forth A new creation with his magic line, And, like the Ariosto 28 of the North, Sang ladye-love and war, romance and knightly worth. The lightning rent 29 from Ariosto's bust I72 The iron crown of laurel's mimick'd leaves ; Nor was the ominous element unjust, For the true laurel-wreath which Glory weaves Is of the tree no bolt of thunder cleaves, And the false semblance but disgraced his brow : Yet still, if fondly Superstition grieves, Know that the lightning sanctifies below Whate'er it strikes ; — yon head is doubly sacred now. Italia! O Italia! thou who hast l8t The fatal gift of beauty, which became A funeral dower of present woes and past, On thy sweet brow is sorrow plough'd by shame, And annals graved in characters of flame. O God ! that thou wert in thy nakedness Less lovely or more powerful, and couldst claim Thy right, and awe the robbers back who press To shed thy blood and drink the tears of thy distress ! Yet, Italy, through every other land I9 ° 25 Dante. 29 Ariosto. 27 Ariosto. 28 Sir Walter Scott. 20 An actual happening. LORD BYRON 37 Thy wrongs should ring, and shall, from side to side ! Mother of Arts, as once of arms, thy hand Was then our guardian, and is still our guide! Parent 30 of our Religion, whom the wide Nations have knelt to for the keys of heaven ! Europe repentant of her parricide, Shall yet redeem thee, and, all backward driven, Roll the barbarian tide, and sue to be forgiven. But Arno wins us to the fair white walls I99 Where the Etrurian Athens 31 claims and keeps A softer feeling for her fairy halls. Girt by her theater of hills, she reaps Her corn and wine and oil, and Plenty leaps To laughing life with her redundant horn. 32 Along the banks where smiling Arno sweeps Was modern Luxury of Commerce born, And buried Learning rose, redeem'd to a new morn. There, too, the Goddess 33 loves in stone, and fills 2o8 The air with beauty ; we inhale The ambrosial aspect, which, beheld, instills Part of its immortality ; the veil Of heaven is half undrawn ; within the pale We stand, and in that 'form and face behold What Mind can make when Nature's self would fail, And to the fond idolators of old Envy the innate flash which such a soul could mold. 30 " Papa caput ecclesice est." 31 Florence. z ~ Cornucopia. 33 Venus de Medici. 3 8 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE In Santa Croce's 34 holy precincts lie 2I 7 Ashes which make it holier, dust which is Even in itself an immortality, Tho' there were nothing save the past, and this, The particle of those sublimities Which have relapsed to chaos : here repose Angelo's, 35 Alfieri's 36 bones, and his, The starry Galileo, 37 with his woes ; Here Machiavelli's 38 earth return'd to whence it rose. These are four minds, which, like the elements, 226 Might furnish forth creation. — ■ Italy ! Time, which hath wrong'd thee with ten thousand rents Of thine imperial garment, shall deny, And hath denied, to every other sky, Spirits which soar from ruin : thy decay Is still impregnate with divinity, Which gilds it with revivifying ray ; Such as the great of yore, Canova 39 is to-day. But where repose the all-Etruscan three — 35 Dante, and Petrarch, and, scarce less than they, The Bard 40 of Prose, creative spirit, he Of the Hundred Tales of love — where did they lay 34 Holy Cross. 35 The great painter, sculptor, and architect. 30 " Alfieri is the great name of this age. The Italians, without waiting for the hundred years, consider him as a ' poet good in law.' " — Byron. 37 The great Italian astronomer. 38 A famous political writer whose name always suggests ways that are dark. 39 An Italian sculptor then living. - 40 Boccaccio, in whose quarry Chaucer found so much to his hand. LORD BYRON 39 Their bones, distinguish' d from our common clay- In death as life? Are they resolved to dust, And have their country's marbles 41 nought to say ? Could not her quarries furnish forth one bust? Did they not to her breast their filial earth intrust? Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar, 42 244 Like Scipio, 43 buried by the upbraiding shore : Thy factions, in their worse than civil war, Proscribed the bard whose name for evermore Their children's children would in vain adore With the remorse of ages ; and the crown Which Petrarch's laureate-brow supremely wore, Upon a far and foreign soil had grown ; His life, his fame, his grave, — though rifled — not thine own. Boccaccio to his parent earth bequeathed 253 His dust, — and lies it not her Great among, With many a sweet and solemn requiem breathed O'er him who form'd the Tuscan's siren tongue, That music in itself, whose sounds are song, The poetry of speech ? No ; even his tomb, Uptorn, must bear the hyena bigot's wrong, No more amidst the meaner dead find room, Nor claim a passing sigh 44 because it told for whom ! 41 Statues. 4 " See line 266. 43 " The elder Scipio Africanus had a tomb, if he was not buried at Liternum, whither he had retired to voluntary banishment. This tomb was near the seashore, and the story of an inscription upon it, Ingrata Patria, is, if not true, at least an agreeable fiction." — Byron. 44 ~" Implores the passing tribute of a sigh." — Gray's Elegy. 40 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE And Santa Croce wants their mighty dust; 262 Yet for this want more noted, as of yore The Caesar's pageant, shorn of Brutus' bust, Did but of Rome's best son remind her more : Happier Ravenna ! on thy hoary shore, Fortress of falling empire, honor'd sleeps The immortal exile ; — Arqua, too, her store Of tuneful relics proudly claims and keeps, While Florence vainly begs her banish'd dead, and weeps. There be more things to greet the heart and eyes 271 In Arno's dome of Art's most princely shrine, Where Sculpture with her rainbow sister vies ; There be more marvels yet — but not for mine; For I have been accustom'd to entwine My thoughts with Nature, rather in the fields Than Art in galleries ; though a work divine Calls for my spirit's homage, yet it yields Less than it feels, because the weapon which it wields Is of another temper, and I roam 2 7° By Thrasimene's lake, in the defiles Fatal to Roman rashness, more at home; For there the Carthaginian's 45 warlike wiles Come back before me, as his skill beguiles The host between the mountains and the shore, Where Courage falls in her despairing files, And torrents, swoln to rivers with their gore, Reek thro' the sultry plain, with legions scatter'd o'er. 45 " Near Thrasimene tradition is still faithful to the name of an enemy, and Hannibal the Carthaginian is the only ancient name re- membered." — Byron. LORD BYRON 41 Like to a forest fell'd by mountain winds ; 28 9 And such the storm of battle on this day, And such the frenzy, whose convulsion blinds To all save carnage, that, beneath the fray, An earthquake reel'd unheededly away ! 46 None felt stern Nature rocking at his feet, And yawning forth a grave for those who lay Upon their bucklers for a winding-sheet ; Such is the absorbing hate when warring nations meet ! The Earth to them was as a rolling bark 298 Which bore them to Eternity; they saw The Ocean round, but had no time to mark The motions of their vessel ; Nature's law, In them suspended, reck'd not of the awe Which reigns when mountains tremble, and the birds Plunge in the clouds for refuge and withdraw From their down-toppling nests, and bellowing herds Stumble o'er heaving plains, and man's dread hath no words. Far other scene is Thrasimene now ; 3 ° 7 Her lake a sheet of silver, and her plain Rent by no ravage save the gentle plough ; Her aged trees rise thick as once the slain Lay where their roots are ; but a brook hath ta'en — A little rill of scanty stream and bed — A name of blood from that day's sanguine rain ; And Sanguinetto 4T tells ye where the dead Made the earth wet, and turn'd the unwilling waters red. 40 History so says. 47 Defined in the context. 42 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE But thou, Clitumnus, in thy sweetest wave 3l6 Of the most living crystal that was e'er The haunt of river nymph, to gaze and lave Her limbs where nothing hid them, thou dost rear Thy grassy banks whereon the milk-white steer Grazes; the purest god of gentle waters, And most serene of aspect, and most clear ! Surely that stream was unprofaned by slaughters, A mirror and a bath for Beauty's youngest daughters. And on thy happy shore a Temple still, 325 Of small and delicate proportion, keeps, Upon a mild declivity of hill, Its memory of thee ; beneath it sweeps Thy current's calmness ; oft from out it leaps The finny darter with the glittering scales, Who dwells and revels in thy glassy deeps ; While, chance, some scatter'd water-lily sails Down where the shallower 4S wave still tells its bub- bling tales. Pass not unblest the Genius of the place! 3:4 If through the air a zephyr more serene Win 48a to the brow, 'tis his; and if ye trace / Along his margin a more eloquent green, If on the heart the freshness of the scene Sprinkle its coolness, and from the dry dust Of weary life a moment lave it clean With Nature's baptism, — 'tis to him ye must Pay orisons for this suspension of disgust. 43 " The shallows murmur, while the deeps are dumb." 48a reach, attain : " When we win to the greater light, we may see with different eyes." — W . Black. LORD BYRON 43 The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height 343 Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; The fall of waters ! rapid as the light, The flashing mass foams shaking the abyss ; The hell of waters ! where they howl and hiss, And boil in endless torture ; while the sweat Of their great agony, wrung out from this Their Phlegethon, 40 curls round the rocks of jet That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set, And mounts in sprays the skies, and thence again 3S2 Returns in an unceasing shower, which round, With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, In an eternal April to the ground, Making it all one emerald : — how profound The gulf ! and how the giant element • From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound, Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent To the broad column which rolls on, and shows 36: More like the fountain of an infant sea Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes Of a new world, than only thus to be Parent of rivers, which flow gushingly, With many windings, thro' the vale ! — Look back ! Lo, where it comes like an eternity, As if to sweep down all things in its track, Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge, 37 ° From side to side, beneath the glittering morn, '"A river in the lower regions. 44 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE An Iris 50 sits, amidst the infernal surge, Like Hope upon a death-bed, and, unworn Its steady dyes while all around is torn By the distracted waters, bears serene Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn: Resembling, mid the torture of the scene, Love watching Madness with unalterable mien. Once more upon the woody Apennine, 379 The infant Alps, which — had I not before Gazed on their mightier parents, where the pine Sits on more shaggy summits, and where roar The thundering lauwine° — might be worship'd more; But I have seen the soaring Jungfrau rear Her never-trodden snow, and seen the hoar Glaciers of bleak Mont Blanc 51 both far and near, And in Chimari 51 heard the thunder-hills of fear — Th' Acroceraunian 51 mountains of old name ; 388 And on Parnassus seen the eagles fly Like spirits of the spot, as 't were for fame, For still they soar'd unutterably high : I've looked on Ida 52 with a Trojan's eye; Athos, Olympus, ./Etna, Atlas, made These hills seem things of lesser dignity, All, save the lone Soracte's height,, display'd Not now in snow, which asks the lyric Roman's 53 aid For our remembrance, and from out the plain 397 Heaves like a long-swept wave about to break, eo rainbow. 61 Watch the meter and pronunciation. Ba A mountain near Troy. 83 Horace. LORD BYRON 45 And on the curl hangs pausing. 54 Not in vain May he, who will, his recollections rake, And quote in classic raptures, and awake The hills with Latian echoes: I abhorr'd Too much, to conquer for the poet's sake, The drill'd dull lesson, forced down word by word In my repugnant youth, with pleasure to record Aught that recalls the daily drug which turn'd 4 ° 6 My sickening memory ; and, though Time hath taught My mind to meditate what then it learn'd, Yet such the fix'd inveteracy wrought By the impatience of my early thought, That, with the freshness wearing out before My mind could relish what it might have sought, If free to choose, I cannot now restore Its health, but what it then detested still abhor. Then farewell, 55 Horace, whom I hated so, 4IS Not for thy faults, but mine ; it is a curse To understand, not feel, thy lyric flow — To comprehend, but never love, thy verse ; Although no deeper Moralist rehearse Our little life, nor Bard prescribe his art, Nor livelier Satirist the conscience pierce, M " For beauty's acme hath a term as brief As the wave's poise before it breaks in pearl." — Lowell. K " I wish to express that we become tired of the task before we can comprehend the beauty ; . . . I was not a slow, though an idle, boy ; my preceptor was the best and worthiest friend I ever possessed, whose warnings I have remembered but too well, though too late — when I have erred, and whose counsels I have but fol- lowed when I have done well or wisely." — Byron. 46 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Awakening without wounding the touch'd heart, Yet fare thee well — upon Soracte's ridge we part. Sylla was first of victors ; but our own, 424 The sagest of usurpers, Cromwell, 56 — he Too swept off senates while he hew'd the throne Down to a block — immortal rebel ! See What crimes it costs to be a moment free, And famous through all ages ! but beneath His fate the moral lurks of destiny ; His day of double 5T victory and death Beheld him win two 58 realms, and, happier, yield his breath. Oh ! Rome my country, city of the soul ! 433 The orphans of the heart must turn to thee, Lone mother of dead empires ! and control In their shut breasts their petty misery. What are our woes and sufferance? Come and see The cypress, hear the owl and plod your way O'er steps of broken thrones and temples. Ye ! Whose agonies are evils of a day — A world is at our feet as fragile as our clay. The Niobe 59 of nations ! there she stands, 442 B0 " Cromwell was a usurper ; and in many points there may be found a resemblance between him and the present chief consul." — Fox. 57 Cromwell died on September 3d, the anniversary of his two great victories of Worcester and Dunbar. 58 England and Scotland. 50 She offended Latona, the mother of Apollo and Diana, and for vengeance' sake Diana (Artemis) shot to death all her sons and daughters. LORD BYRON 47 Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe An empty urn within her withered hands, Whose holy dust was scattered long ago ; The Scipio's G0 tomb contains no ashes now ; The very sepulchers lie tenantless Of their heroic dwellers : dost thou flow, Old Tiber! through a marble wilderness? Rise, with thy yellow waves and mantle her distress. Alas! the lofty city! and alas! 4SI The trebly hundred triumphs ! and the day When Brutus made the dagger's edge surpass The Conqueror's sword in bearing fame away ! Alas ! for Tally's voice, and Virgil's lay, And Livy's pictured page ! — but these shall be Her resurrection ; all beside — decay. Alas, for earth, for never shall we see That brightness in her eye she bore when Rome was free! What from this barren being do we reap? 46 ° Our senses narrow, and our reason frail, Life short, and truth a gem which loves the deep, 01 And all things weigh'd in custom's falsest scale ; Opinion an omnipotence, — whose veil Mantles the earth with darkness, until right And wrong are accidents, and men grow pale "Amid nine daughters slain by Artemis Stood Niobe. . . . One prayer remains For me to offer yet. Thy quiver holds More than nine arrows ; bend the bow ; aim here ! " " u See note to line 245. 81 " Truth lies in a well." 48 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Lest their own judgments should become too bright, And their free thoughts be crimes, and earth have too much light. I speak not of men's creeds — they rest between 469 Man and his Maker — but of things allow'd, Averr'd, and known, and daily, hourly seen — The yoke that is upon us doubly bow'd, And the intent of tyranny avow'd., The edict of Earth's rulers, who are grown The apes of him 62 who humbled once the proud, And shook them from their slumbers on the throne ; Too glorious, were this all his mighty arm had done. Can tyrants but by tyrants conquer'd be, 478 And Freedom find no champion and no child Such as Columbia saw arise when she Sprung forth a Pallas, 63 arm'd and undefiled ? Or must such minds be nourish'd in the wild, Deep in the unpruned forest, 6 * 'midst the roar Of cataracts, where nursing Nature smiled On infant Washington ? Has Earth no more Such seeds within her breast, 65 or Europe no such shore ? 02 Napoleon. 63 Minerva, or Pallas, sprang forth full-armed from the brain of Jupiter. 04 Byron forgets that Virginia was settled over a hundred years before Washington was born. 66 Lowell thought the supply not out : — " For him her Old-World molds aside she threw, And, choosing sweet clay from the breast Of the unexhausted West, With stuff untainted shaped a hero new." Who was this hero ? LORD BYRON 49 There is the moral of all human tales ; 487 'Tis but the same rehearsal of the past : First Freedom, and then Glory, — when that fails, Wealth, vice, corruption, — Barbarism at last : And History, with all her volumes vast, Hath but one page, — 'tis better written here, Where gorgeous Tyranny hath thus amass'd All treasures, all delights, that eye or ear, Heart, soul could seek, tongue ask ; — away with words ! draw near, Admire, exult, despise, laugh, weep, — for here 496 There is such matter for all feeling. — Man, Thou pendulum betwixt a smile and tear! Ages and realms are crowded in this span, This mountain, whose obliterated plan The pyramid of empires pinnacled, Of Glory's gewgaws shining in the van Till the sun's rays with added flame were fiU'd ! Where are its golden roofs ! where those who dared to build? Tully was not so eloquent as thou, s ° 5 Thou nameless column with the buried base ! What are the laurels of the Caesar's brow ? Crown me with ivy from his dwelling-place! Whose arch or pillar meets me in the face, Titus' or Trajan's ? No — 'tis that of Time : Triumph, arch, pillar, all he doth displace Scoffing ; and apostolic statues G0 climb To crush the imperial urn, whose ashes slept sublime, 00 The Column of Trajan is surmounted by St. Peter, that of Aurelius by St. Paul. — Bytion. 5 o CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Buried in air, the deep-blue sky of Rome, 514 And looking to the stars : they had contain'd A spirit which with these would find a home, The last of those who o'er the whole earth reign'd, The Roman globe, for after none sustain'd, But yielded back his conquests : — he was more Than a mere Alexander, and, unstain'd With household blood and wine, serenely wore His sovereign virtues — still we Trajan's 67 name adore. Where is the rock of Triumph, the high place 523 Where Rome embraced her heroes? where the steep Tarpeian — fittest goal of Treason's race, The promontory whence the Traitor's Leap Cured all ambition? Did the conquerors heap Their spoils here ? Yes ; and in yon field below, A thousand years of silenced factions sleep, — The Forum, where the immortal accents glow, And still the eloquent air breathes — burns with Cicero ! Then turn we to her latest tribune's name, — S32 From her ten thousand tyrants, turn to thee, Redeemer of dark centuries of shame — The friend of Petrarch — hope of Italy — Rienzi, 68 last of Romans ! While the tree Of Freedom's wither'd trunk puts forth a leaf, Even for thy tomb a garland let it be — 07 Proverbially the best of the Roman emperors. " Even down to our age one is not applauded among the chief statesmen in the Senate, except, ' More glorious than Augustus, better than Trajan.' " — Entropius's Short History of Rome. 68 Who " came not here to talk." LORD BYRON 51 The forum's champion, and the people's chief, — Her new-born Numa thou — with reign, alas ! too brief. O Love, no habitant of earth thou art! S41 An unseen seraph, we believe in thee, — A faith whose martyrs are the broken heart; But never yet hath seen nor e'er shall see The naked eye thy form, as it should be ; The mind hath made thee, as it peopled heaven, Even with its own desiring phantasy, And to a thought such shape and image given As haunts the unquench'd soul — parch'd, wearied, wrung, and riven. Of its own beauty is the mind diseased, 55 ° And fevers into false creation. Where, Where are the forms the sculptor's soul hath seized? In him alone. 69 Can Nature show so fair? Where are the charms and virtues which we dare Conceive in boyhood and pursue as men, — The unreach'd Paradise of our despair, Which o'er-informs the pencil and the pen, And overpowers the page where it would bloom again ? Our life is a false nature, — 'tis not in 559 The harmony of things — this hard decree, This uneradicable taint of sin, This boundless upas, this all-blasting tree, Whose root is earth, whose leaves and branches be " The light that never was on sea or land, The consecration and the poet's dream," — Wordsworth. 52 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE The skies which rain their plagues on men like dew — Disease, death, bondage — all the woes we see — And worse, the woes we see not — which throb through The immedicable soul, with heart-aches ever new. Yet let us ponder boldly: 'tis a base s68 Abandonment of reason to resign Our right of thought — our last and only place Of refuge; this, at least, shall still be mine: Though from our birth the faculty divine Is chain'd and tortured — cabin'd, cribb'd, confined, And bred in darkness, lest the truth should shine Too brightly on the unprepared mind, The beam pours in, for time and skill will couch the blind. Arches on arches! as it were that Rome, S77 Collecting the chief trophies of her line, Would build up all her triumphs in one dome, Her Coliseum stands ; the moonbeams shine As 't were, its natural torches, 70 for divine Should be the light which streams here to illume This long-explored but still exhaustless mine Of contemplation ; and the azure gloom Of an Italian night, where the deep skies assume 70 " Byron's celebrated description is better than the reality. He beheld the scene in his mind's eye, through the witchery of many intervening years, and faintly illuminated it as if with starlight instead of this broad glow of moonshine." — Hawthorne. The Mar- ble Faun people visited the ruin when the moonlight " filled and flooded the great empty space." LORD BYRON 53 Hue9 which have words and speak to ye of heaven,s 86 Floats o'er this vast and wondrous monument, And shadows forth its glory. There is given Unto the things of earth, which Time hath bent, A spirit's feeling; and where he hath leant His hand, but broke his scythe, 71 there is a power And magic in the ruin'd battlement, For which the palace of the present hour Must yield its pomp and wait till ages are its dower. 72 I see before me the Gladiator lie : S95 He leans upon his hand — his manly brow Consents to death, but conquers agony, And his droop'd head sinks gradually low, — And through his side the last drops, ebbing slow From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, Like the first of a thunder-shower ; and now The arena swims around him — he is gone, Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hail'd the wretch who won. He heard it, but he heeded not : his eyes 6 ° 4 Were with his heart, and that was far away; He reck'd not of the life he lost, nor prize, But where his rude hut by the Danube lay There were his young barbarians all at play, There was their Dacian mother ; — he, their sire, Butcher'd to make a Roman holiday, — All this rush'd with his blood. — Shall he expire? And unavenged ? — Arise, ye Goths, and glut your ire ! T1 The object has grown old, but is not destroyed. 72 Modern works of art must wait for their halo till Time has adopted them. 54 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE A ruin — yet what ruin! from its mass 6l3 Walls, palaces, half-cities, have been rear'd ; Yet oft the enormous skeleton 73 ye pass, And marvel where the spoil could have appear'd. Hath it indeed been plunder'd, or but clear'd ? Alas ! developed, opens the decay, When the colossal fabric's form is near'd ; It will not bear the brightness of the day, Which streams too much on all years, man, have reft away. But when the rising moon begins to climb 622 Its topmost arch, and gently pauses 74 there ; When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, And the low night-breeze waves along the air The garland-forest, 75 which the gray walls wear, Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head ; When the light shines serene but doth not glare, Then in this magic circle raise the dead : Heroes have trod this spot — 'tis on their dust ye tread. "While stands the Coliseum, Rome shall stand; 6 ^ When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall ; And when Rome falls — the World." From our own land 75a Thus spake the pilgrims o'er this mighty wall 73 The Coliseum. 74 " Hast thou a charm to stay the morning star In his steep course? So long he seems to pause On thy bald awful head, O sovran Blanc ! " — Coleridge. 75 Vines, etc., growing from the walls — " Mere withered wallflowers, waving overhead." — Browning's Pippa Passes. 75 a Read interesting note in Gibbon's Rome. See index. LORD BYRON 55 In Saxon times, which we are wont to call Ancient; and these three mortal things are still On their foundations, and unalter'd all ; Rome and her Ruin past Redemption's skill, The World, the same wide den — of thieves, or what ye will. But lo ! the dome — the vast and wondrous 64 ° dome, 70 To which Diana's marvel 7T was a cell, — Christ's mighty shrine above his martyr's tomb ! I have beheld the Ephesian's miracle — Its columns strew the wilderness, and dwell The hyena and the jackal in their shade ; I have beheld Sophia's 78 bright roofs swell Their glittering mass i' the sun, and have survey'd Its sanctuary the while the usurping Moslem pray'd ; But thou, of temples old or altars new, 649 Standest alone, with nothing like to thee — Worthiest of God, the holy and the true. Since Zion's desolation, when that He Forsook his former city, 79 what could be Of earthly structures, in his honor piled, Of a sublimer aspect? Majesty, 76 Of St. Peter's. 77 The Temple of Diana at Ephesus. 78 Temple, now a mosque, built by Constantine on the occasion of removing the seat of government from Rome to Byzantine. Now, " In St. Sophia the Turkman gets, And loud in air Calls men to prayer From the tapering summits of tall minarets." — Father Prout. 7 " Jerusalem. 56 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Power, Glory, Strength, and Beauty, all are aisled 80 In this eternal ark of worship undefiled. Enter: its grandeur overwhelms thee not; 6s8 And why ? it is not lessen'd ; but thy mind, Expanded by the genius of the spot, Has grown colossal, and can only find A fit abode wherein appear enshrined Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined, See thy God face to face, as thou dost now His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his brow. Thou movest — but increasing with the advance, 667 Like climbing some great Alp, which still doth rise, Deceived by its gigantic elegance ; Vastness which grows — but grows to harmonize — All musical in its immensities ; Rich marbles — richer painting — shrines where flame The lamps of gold — and haughty dome which vies In air with Earth's chief structures, tho' their frame Sits on the firm-set 81 ground — and this the clouds must claim. Thou seest not all ; but piecemeal thou must break, 6 ? 6 To separate contemplation, the great whole; And as the ocean many bays will make ' An architectural term, — or, is it " isled " ? " Isled in sudden seas of light, My heart," etc. — Tennyson. " Thou sure and firm-set earth, Hear not my steps, which way they walk." — Macbeth, Act II, Scene I. LORD BYRON 57 That ask the eye, so here condense thy soul To more immediate objects, and control Thy thoughts until thy mind hath got by heart Its eloquent proportions;, and unroll In mighty graduations, part by part, The glory which at once upon thee did not dart, Not by its fault — but thine : our outward sense 68s Is but of gradual grasp — and as it is That what we have of feeling most intense Outstrips our faint expression, even so this Outshining and o'erwhelming edifice 82 Fools our fond gaze, and greatest of the great Defies at first our nature's littleness, Till, growing with its growth, we thus dilate Our spirits to the size of that they contemplate. Then pause, and be enlighten'd; there is more 694 In such a survey than the sating gaze Of wonder pleased, or awe which would adore The worship of the place, or the mere praise Of art and its great masters, who could raise What former time, nor skill nor thought could plan : The fountain of sublimity displays Its depth, and thence may draw the mind of man Its golden sands, and learn what great conceptions can. Looking up suddenly, I found mine eyes Confronted with the minster's vast repose. I entered, reverent of whatever shrine Guards piety and solace for my kind Or gives the soul a moment's truce of God." — Lowell's The Cathedral. 58 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE But where is he, the Pilgrim 83 of my song, 7°'3 The being who upheld it through the past? — Methinks he cometh late and tarries long. He is no more — these breathings are his last ; His wanderings done, his visions ebbing fast, And he himself as nothing : — if he was Aught but a phantasy, and could be class'd With forms which live and suffer — let that pass ; His shadow fades away into Destruction's mass, Which gathers shadow, substance, life, and all 7I2 That we inherit 84 in its mortal shroud, And spreads the dim and universal pall Through which all things grow phantom ; and the cloud Between us sinks and all which ever glow'd, Till Glory's self is twilight, and displays A melancholy halo scarce allow'd To hover on the verge of darkness ; rays Sadder than saddest night, for they distract the gaze, And send us prying into the abyss, 721 To gather what we shall be when the frame Shall be resolved to something less than this Its wretched essence ; and to dream of fame, And wipe the dust from off the idle name We never more shall hear, — but never more, O happier thought ! can we be made the same : It is enough, in sooth, that once we bore 83 Childe Harold. 84 " The solemn tempies, the great globe itself, Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve." -rv Prospero, in The Tempest. LORD BYRON 59 These fardels of the heart — the heart whose sweat was gore. Lo ! Nemi, 85 navell'd in the woody hills 73 ° So far that the uprooting wind which tears, The oak from his foundation, and which spills The ocean o'er its boundary and bears Its foam against the skies, reluctant spares The oval mirror of thy glassy lake ; And, calm as cherish'd hate, its surface wears A deep cold settled aspect nought can shake, All coil'd into itself and round, as sleeps the snake. And near, Albano's 86 scarce-divided waves 739 Shine from a sister valley ; — and afar, The Tiber winds, and the broad ocean laves The Latian coast where sprung the Epic S7 war, " Arms and the Man," whose reascending star Rose o'er an empire ; — but beneath thy right Tully 88 reposed from Rome ; — and where yon bar Of girdling mountains intercepts the sight The Sabine farm was till'd, the weary bard's 89 delight. But I forget, — My pilgrim's shrine is won, 748 And he and I must part,— so let it be, — His task and mine alike are nearly done : 85 From Nemus, a forest. "The village of Nemi (the Grove) is but an evening's ride from the comfortable inn of Albano." — Byron. 80 A small lake in the Alban hill. From the summit of this, " the prospect embraces all the objects alluded to in the stanza." — Byron. 87 A war whose burden is the two great epic poems of Greece and Rome. 88 Cicero. 89 Virgil. 60 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Yet once more let us look upon the sea; The Midland Ocean breaks on him and me, And from the Alban Mount we now behold Our friend of youth, that ocean which when we Beheld it last by Calpe's 90 rock unfold Those waves, we follow'd on till the dark Euxine roll'd Upon the blue Symplegades : 91 long years — 757 Long, though not very many — since have done Their work on both; some suffering and some tears Have left us nearly where we had begun. Yet not in vain our mortal race hath run ; We have had our reward — and it is here : That we can yet feel gladden'd by the sun, And reap from earth, sea, joy almost as dear As if there were no man to trouble what is clear. 92 Oh, that the Desert were my dwelling-place, 93 766 With one fair Spirit for my minister, That I might all forget the human race, And hating no one, love but only her ! Ye Elements ! — in whose ennobling stir I feel myself exalted — can ye not Accord me such a being ? Do I err In deeming such inhabit many a spot? Though with them to converse can rarely be our lot. There 94 is a pleasure in the pathless woods, 775 90 Strait of Gibraltar. 91 Small islands at the mouth of the Bosporus. 92 A " reward," verily. 93 " Oh, for a lodge in some vast wilderness ! " — Cowper. 94 Will not the reader favor himself by memorizing these conclud- ing stanzas? LORD BYRON 61 There is a rapture on the lonely shore ; There is society, where none intrudes, By the deep Sea, and music in its roar : I love not Man the less, but Nature more, From these our interviews, in which I steal From all I may be, or have been before, To mingle with the Universe, 95 and feel What I can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal. Roll on, thou deep and dark blue Ocean — roll ! 784 Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain : Man marks the earth with ruin — his control Stops with the shore ; — upon the watery plain The wrecks are all thy deed, nor doth remain A shadow of man's ravage, save his own, When, for a moment, like a drop of rain, He sinks into thy depths with bubbling groan, Without a grave, unknell'd, uncoffin'd, and unknown. His steps are not upon thy paths, — thy fields 793 Are not a spoil for him, — thou dost arise And shake him from thee ; the vile strength he wields For earth's destruction, thou dost all despise, Spurning him from thy bosom to the skies, And send'st him, shivering in thy playful spray, And howling, to his gods, where haply lies His petty hope in some near port or bay, And dashest him again to earth : — there let him lay. 98 The armaments which thunderstrike the walls 8o2 05 " He is made one with Nature," etc. — Adonais, line 370, et seq. """Nice customs curtsy to great kings." — H£nry V., Act V, Scene 1, line 240. 62 CHILDE HAROLD'S PILGRIMAGE Of rock-built cities, bidding nations quake, And monarchs tremble in their capitals, — The oak leviathans, whose huge ribs make Their clay creator the vain title take Of lord of thee and arbiter of war, — These are thy toys, and, as the snowy flake, They melt into thy yeast of waves, which mar Alike the Armada's 97 pride or spoils of Trafalgar. 98 Thy shores are empires, changed in all save 8l1 thee ; — Assyria, Greece, Rome, Carthage, what are they? Thy waters wash'd them power while they were free, And many a tyrant since; their shores obey The stranger, slave, or savage; their decay Has dried up realms to deserts : — not so thou ; Unchangeable, save to thy wild waves' play, Time writes no wrinkle on thine azure brow: Such as creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now. Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form 820 Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, Calm or convulsed — in breeze, or gale, or storm, Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime Dark-heaving ; — boundless, endless, and sublime, The image of Eternity, the throne Of the Invisible ; even from out thy slime The monsters of the deep are made ; each zone Obeys thee; thou goest forth, dread, fathomless, alone. 97 The Spanish Armada, destroyed by the English fleet, with the efficient aid of Neptune. 98 One of Nelson's great naval victories. LORD BYRON 63 And I have loved thee, Ocean ! and my joy 82 9 Of youthful sports was on thy breast to be Borne, like thy bubbles, onward : from a boy I wanton'd with thy breakers — they to me Were a delight ; and if the freshening sea Made them a terror, 'twas a pleasing fear, For I was as it were a child of thee, And trusted to thy billows far and near, And laid my hand upon thy mane — as I do here. My task is done — my song hath ceased — my 83S theme Has died into an echo ; it is fit The spell should break of this protracted dream. The torch shall be extinguished which hath lit My midnight lamp — and what is writ, is writ ; — Would it were worthier ! but I am not now That which I have been — and my visions flit Less palpably before me — and the glow Which in my spirit dwelt is fluttering, faint, and low. Farewell ! a word that must be, and hath been, — 8 47 A sound which makes us linger, — yet — farewell ! Ye who have traced the Pilgrim to the scene Which is his last, if in your memories dwell A thought which once was his, if on ye swell A single recollection, not in vain He wore his sandal-shoon and scallop-shell ; " Farewell ! with him alone may rest the pain, If such there were, — with you, the moral of his strain! Badges of pilgrims. " How should I your true love know From another oon ? By his cockle hat and staff, And his sandle shoon." — Hamlet, Act IV, Scene 5. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON. 1 709-1 784. Throughout that part of our globe where English is the mother tongue there are probably not more than a half dozen names of what we may call literary people more generally known than is the name, Dr. Johnson; and this fame, for it is fame of a pure and noble type, is not based upon wealth, high descent, well-improved opportunities to play a brilliant part in the public eye, but upon his simple mode of life in the light of common day, upon his writings, and pre-eminently upon his talk. Possibly, nay certainly, one book written about John- son, what he did, what he said ; sometimes, when they had a chance, what others in his presence said, has done more to fix and widen that reputation than any book of his own authorship. Critics have dipped deep into their stock of laudatory phrases when speaking of Boswell's Life of Johnson. " Johnson," said Burke, " appears far greater in Boswell's books than in his own." Among his prose works are the Rambler, a periodical upon the general plan of Addison's Spectator; Rasselas, a story which he wrote in one week to obtain money to pay the burial expenses of his mother ; a Dictionary of the English Language, first published in 1755, relative to which Johnson's letter to Lord Chesterfield, prompted by a patronizing article of his lordship, has been termed " English literature's declaration of independence ; " The Lives of the Poets, a series of biographies of exceeding interest, abounding in sterling literary criticism, but amid the current thereof the reader may well reserve the right 5 6 5 66 DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON Of private opinion ; an edition of Shakespeare's Plays ; Reports of the Senate of Lilliput, otherwise reports of many of the great speeches in Parliament by Pitt and others, which are said to be largely in debt to the re- porter ; and A Journey to the Hebrides, concerning which there is a note in the introduction to this volume. Though his muse did not soar, Johnson wrote some poems. One of these, the Vanity of Human Wishes, has furnished the language one of its well-worn phrases. Of Charles XII. of Sweden it says, likewise ending the poem : — He left a name at which the worlJ grew pale, To point a moral, or adorn a tale. Familiarly associated with Johnson were Garrick, Reynolds, Boswell, Burke, Goldsmith, and others, names familiar to our ears as household words, members of the renowned "Literary Club," and Johnson as of right divine at the head of the table. Here is the way the bare thought of one of those gatherings struck Thackeray : " How contemptible the story of the George III Court squabblers is beside the recorded talk of dear old Johnson ! Ah, I would have liked a night at the Turk's Head, even though bad news had arrived from the Colonies, and Dr. Johnson was growling against the rebels." And this note closes with a few words from Macaulay : " What a singular destiny has been that of this remarkable man ! To be regarded in his own age as a classic, and in ours as a companion — to receive from his contemporaries that full homage which men of genius have in general received only from posterity — to be more intimately known to posterity than other men are DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 67 known to their contemporaries." This is followed by a prediction that " those peculiarities of manner, and that careless table-talk, the memory of which, he probably thought, would die with him, are likely to be remembered as lonj as the English language is spoken in any. quarter of the globe." A Journey to the Hebrides i I had desired to visit the Hebrides, or Western Islands of Scotland, so long, that I scarcely remember how the wish was originally excited ; and was in the autumn of the year 1773 induced to undertake the jour- ney, by finding in Mr. Boswell x a companion whose acuteness would help my inquiry, and whose gaiety of conversation and civility of manners are sufficient to counteract the inconveniences of travel in countries less hospitable than we have passed. 2 On the eighteenth of August we left Edinburgh, a city too well known to admit description, and directed our course northward, along the eastern coast of Scotland, accompanied the first day by another gentleman, who could stay with us only long enough to show us how much we lost at separation. 3 As we crossed the Frith of Forth, 2 our curiosity was attracted by — INCH 3 KEITH, a small island, which neither of my companions had ever visited, though, lying within their view, it had all their lives solicited their notice. Here, by climbing with some difficulty over shattered crags, we made the first experi- ment of unfrequented coasts. Inch Keith is nothing more than a rock covered with a thin layer of earth, not wholly bare of grass, and very fertile of thistles. A 1 The author of one of the world's most famous biographies, Boswell's Life of Johnson. 2 The reader should have a map of Scotland constantly at hand. :! an island. 69 70 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES small herd of cows grazes annually upon it in the sum- mer. It seems never to have afforded to man or beast a permanent habitation. 4 We found only the ruins of a small fort, not so injured by time but that it might be easily restored to its former state. One of the stones had this inscription : Maria Reg. MDLXIV* It has probably been neglected from the time that the whole island had the same king. 5 5 We left this little island with our thoughts employed a while on the different appearance that it would have made if it had been placed at the same distance from London, with the same facility of approach ; with' what emulation of price a few rocky acres would have been purchased, and with what expensive industry they would have been cultivated and adorned. 6 Though we were yet in the most populous part of Scotland, and at so small a distance from the capital, we, met few passengers. The roads are neither rough nor dirty; and it affords a southern stranger a new kind of pleasure to travel so commodiously without the interruption of toll-gates. Where the bottom is rocky, as it seems commonly to be in Scotland, a smooth way is made indeed with great labor, but it never wants repair. The carriages in com- mon use are small carts, drawn each by one little horse; and a man seems to derive some degree of dignity and importance from the reputation of possessing a two- horse cart. 4 Queen Mary, 1564 — " Mary Queen of Scots." 5 James I., of England ; James VI., of Scotland. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 71 ST. ANDREWS. 7 At an hour somewhat late we came to St. Andrews, and found that, by the interposition of some invisible friend, lodgings had been provided for us at the house of one of the^professors, whose easy civility quickly made us forget that we were strangers; and in the whole time of our stay we were gratified by every mode of kindness, and entertained with all the elegance of lettered hos- pitality. 8 In the morning we rose to perambulate a city which only history shows to have once flourished, and surveyed the ruins of ancient magnificence, of which even the ruins cannot long be visible, unless some care be taken to preserve them ; and where is the pleasure of preserving such mournful memorials? They have been till very lately so much neglected, that every man carried away the stones who fancied that he wanted them. 9 The cathedral, of which the foundations may be still traced, and a small part of the wall is standing, appears to have been a spacious and majestic building, not un- suitable to the primacy of the kingdom. Of the archi- tecture, the poor remains can hardly exhibit, even to an artist, a sufficient specimen. It was demolished, as is well known, in the tumult and violence of Knox's 6 reformation. 9 The reader may need to be reminded of Johnson's intense prejudice against the Scotch reformation, and especially against its great leader, John Knox. I quote a few sentences from Froude's " The Influence of the Reformation on the Scottish .Character," as a sort of antidote. " Good reason had Scotland to be proud of Knox. He only, in this wild crisis, saved the Kirk which he had founded, and saved with it Scottish and English freedom. But for Knox, and what he was able still to do, it is almost certain that the Duke of Alva's army would have landed on the eastern coast." 72 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES 10 The city of St. Andrews gradually decayed : one of its streets is now lost; and in those that remain there is the silence and solitude of inactive indigence and gloomy depopulation. The university, within a few years, consisted of three colleges, but is now reduced to two. The chapel of the alienated college is yet standing, a fabric not inelegant of external structure : but I was always, by some civil excuse, hindered from entering it. A decent attempt, as I was since told, has been made to convert it into a kind of greenhouse, by planting its area with shrubs. To what use it will next be put I have no pleasure in con- jecturing. It is something that its present state is at least not ostentatiously displayed. Where there is yet shame, there may in time be virtue. ii The dissolution of St. Leonard's College was doubt- less necessary ; but of that necessity there is reason to complain. It is surely not without just reproach, that a nation, of which the commerce is hourly extending, and the wealth increasing, denies any participation of its prosperity to its literary societies ; and while its mer- chants or its nobles are raising palaces, suffers its uni- versities to molder into dust. 12 In walking among the ruins of these religious build- ings, we came to two vaults over which had formerly stood the house of the sub-prior. One of the vaults was inhabited by an old woman, who claimed the right of abode there as the widow of a man whose ancestors had possessed the same gloomy mansion for no less than four generations. The right, however it began, was considered as established by legal prescription, 7 and the old woman 7 " The memory of man ran not to the contrary." DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 73 lives undisturbed. She thinks, however, that she has a claim to something more than sufferance ; for as her hus- band's name was Bruce, 8 she is allied to royalty, and told Mr. Boswell that when there were persons of quality in the place, she was distinguished by some notice; that indeed she is now neglected, but she spins a thread, has the company of a cat, and is troublesome to nobody. 13 Having now seen whatever this ancient city offered to our curiosity, we left it with good wishes, having reason to be highly pleased with the attention that was paid us. But whoever surveys the world must see many things that give him pain. ABERBROTHICK. 14 As we knew sorrow and wishes to be vain, it was now our business to mind our way. The roads of Scotland afford little diversion to the traveler, who seldom sees himself either encountered or overtaken, and who has nothing to contemplate but grounds that have no visible boundaries, or are separated by walls of loose stone. From the banks of the Tweed to St. Andrews I had never seen a single tree which I did not believe to have grown up far within the present century. 9 Now and then about a gentleman's house stands a small plantation, which in Scotch is called a policy, but of these there are few, and those few all very young. The variety of sun and shade is here utterly unknown. There is no tree for either shelter or timber. A tree might be a show in Scotland, 8 They claimed kin with the immortal Robert Bruce, once king. 9 This calls up the depressing communication of Queen Elizabeth to the Scotch Council in that " wild crisis " (see note to 9), that if they hurt a hair of Queen Mary's head, she would harry their country, and hang them all on the trees round the town, if she could find any trees there for that purpose. 74 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES as a horse in Venice. At St. Andrews Mr. Boswell found only one,, and recommended it to my notice; I told him that it was rough and low, and looked as if I thought so. " This," said he, " is nothing to another a few miles off." I was still less delighted to hear that another tree was not to be seen nearer. " Nay," said a gentleman that stood by, " I know but of this and that tree in the county." 15 The lowlands of Scotland had once undoubtedly an equal portion of woods with other countries.' Forests are everywhere gradually diminished, as architecture and cultivation prevail by the increase of people and the in- troduction of arts. But I believe few regions have been denuded like this, where many centuries must have passed in waste without the least thought of future supply. Davies observes in his account of Ireland, that no Irish- man had ever planted an orchard. For that negligence some excuse might be drawn from an unsettled state of life, and the instability of property ; but in Scotland pos- session has long been secure, and inheritance regular ; yet it may be doubted whether before the Union 10 any man between Edinburgh and England had ever set a tree. MONTROSE. 16 Leaving these fragments of magnificence, we traveled on to Montrose, which we surveyed in the morning, and found it well built, airy, and clean. The townhouse is a handsome fabric with a portico. We then went to view the English chapel, and found a small church, clean to a degree unknown in any other part of Scotland, with 10 In 1707, Queen Anne reigning, the two countries were united under one parliament, and with a common name, Great Britain. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 75 commodious galleries, and, what was yet less expected, with an organ. At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought proportionate to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr. Boswell desired me to observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman, and I then defended him as well as I could. 17 When I had proceeded thus far, I had opportunities of observing what I had never heard, that there were many beggars in Scotland. In Edinburgh the proportion is, I think, not less than in London, and in the smaller places it is far greater than in English towns of the same ex- tent. It must, however, be allowed that they are not importunate. nor clamorous. They solicit silently, or very modestly, and therefore, though their behavior may strike with more force the heart of a stranger, they are certainly in danger of missing the attention of their countrymen. 18 The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same appearances. The country is still naked, the hedges are of stone, and the fields so generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where grass is found for the horses that till them. The harvest, which was almost ripe, appeared very plentiful. 19 Early in the afternoon Mr. Boswell observed that we were at no great distance from the house of Lord 1X Monboddo. The magnetism of his conversation easily drew us out of our way, and the entertainment which we received would have been a sufficient recompense for a much greater deviation. 11 A Scotch justice; wrote on the origin of language; believed man to be descended from the monkey. 76 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES 20 The roads beyond Edinburgh, as they are less fre- quented, must be expected to grow gradually rougher; but they were hitherto by no means incommodious. We traveled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch driver, who having no rivals in expedition, neither gives himself nor his horses unnecessary trouble. We did not affect the impatience we did not feel, but were satisfied with the company of each other, as well riding in the chaise, as sitting at an inn. The night and the day are equally solitary and equally safe ; for where there are so few travelers, why should there be robbers ? ABERDEEN. 21 We came somewhat late to Aberdeen, and found the inn so full, that we had some difficulty in obtaining admission, till Mr. Boswell made himself known : his name overpowered all objection, and we found a very good house and civil treatment. 22 To write of the cities of our own island with the solemnity of geographical description, as if we had been cast upon a newly discovered coast, has the appearance of a very frivolous ostentation ; yet as Scotland is little known to the greater part of those who may read these observations, it is not superfluous to relate, that under the name of Aberdeen are comprised two towns, standing about a mile distant from each other, but governed, I think, by the same magistrates. 23 In Old Aberdeen stands the King's College, of which the first president was Hector Boece, or Boethius, 12 who may be justly reverenced as one of the revivers of elegant learning. When he studied at Paris, he was acquainted 12 His " Consolations of Philosophy " was translated into Eng- lish by King Alfred. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 77 with Erasmus, who afterward gave him a public testi- mony of his esteem, by inscribing to him a catalogue of his works. The style of Boethius, though, perhaps, not always rigorously pure, is formed with great diligence upon ancient models, and wholly uninfected with mo- nastic barbarity. His history is written with elegance and vigor, but his fabulousness and credulity are justly blamed. His fabulousness, if he was the author of the fictions, is a fault for which no apology can be made ; but his credulity may be excused in an age when all men were credulous. Learning was then rising on the world ; but ages so long accustomed to darkness were too much dazzled with its light to see anything distinctly. The first race of scholars in the fifteenth century, and some time after, were, for the most part, learning to speak, rather than to think, and were therefore more studious of ele- gance than of truth. The contemporaries of Boethius thought it sufficient to know what the ancients had de- livered. The examination of tenets and of facts was reserved for another generation. 24 Boethius, as president of the university, enjoyed a revenue of forty Scottish marks, about two pounds four shillings and sixpence of sterling money. In the present age of trade and taxes, it is difficult even for the imagina- tion so to raise the value of money, or so to diminish the demands of life, as to suppose four and forty shillings a year an honorable stipend ; yet it was probably equal, not only to the needs, but to the rank of Boethius. The wealth of England was undoubtedly to that of Scotland more than five to one, and it is known that Henry the Eighth, among whose faults avarice 13 was never reckoned, He did not follow his father's example. 78 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES granted to Roger Ascham, 14 as a reward of his learning, a pension of ten pounds a year. 25 We came to Aberdeen on Saturday, August 21. On Monday we were invited into the townhall, where I had the freedom of the city given me by the Lord Provost. 15 The honor conferred had all the decorations that polite- ness could add, and, what I am afraid I should not have had to say of any city south of the Tweed, I found no petty officer bowing for a fee. The parchment containing the record of admission is, with the seal appending, fastened to a riband, and worn for one day by the new citizen in his hat. 26 The road beyond Aberdeen grew more stony, and con- tinued equally naked of all vegetable decoration. We traveled over a tract of ground near the sea, which, not long ago, suffered a very uncommon and unexpected calamity. The sand of the shore was raised by a tempest in such quantities, and carried to such a distance, that an estate was overwhelmed and lost. Such and so hope- less was the barrenness superinduced, that the owner, when he was required to pay the usual tax, desired rather to resign the ground. SLANES CASTLE. 27 We came in the afternoon to Slanes Castle, built upon the margin of the sea, so that the walls of one of the towers seem only a continuation of a perpendicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the waves. To walk round the house seemed impracticable. From the windows the eye wanders over the sea that separates Scotland from 14 Teacher of Queen Elizabeth and Lady Jane Grey ; author of The Scholemaster, and Toxophilus, both wise and learned books. 15 Chief executive officer of the city. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 79 Norway, and when the winds beat with violence, must enjoy all the terrific grandeur ie of the tempestuous ocean. I would not for my amusement wish for a storm ; but as storms, whether wished or not, will sometimes happen, I may say, without violation of humanity, that I should willingly look out upon them from Slanes Castle. 28 Next morning we continued our journey, pleased with our reception at Slanes Castle, of which we had now leisure to recount the grandeur and the elegance ; for our way afforded us few topics of conversation. The ground was neither uncultivated nor unfruitful ; but it was still all arable. Of flocks or herds there was no appearance. I had now traveled two hundred miles in Scotland, and seen only one tree not younger than myself. BANFF. 29 We dined this day at the house of Mr. Frazer, of Streichon, who showed us in his grounds some stones yet standing of a Druidical circle, and what I began to think more worthy of notice, some forest trees of full growth. ELGIN. 30 Finding nothing to detain us at Banff, we set out in the morning, and having breakfasted at Cullen, about noon came to Elgin, where, in the inn that we supposed the best, a dinner was set before us which we could not eat. This was the first time, and except one the last, that I found any reason to complain of a Scotch table; and such disappointments, I suppose, must be expected in 10 " By heaven, it is a splendid sight to see, For one who hath no friend, no brother there!" — Byron. 80 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES every country where there is no great frequency of trav- elers. 31 The ruins of the cathedral of Elgin afforded us another proof of the waste of reformation. There is enough yet remaining to show that it was once magnifi- cent. Its whole plot is easily traced. The church of Elgin had, in the intestine tumults of the barbarous ages, been laid waste by the irruption of a Highland chief, whom the bishop had offended; but it was gradually restored to the state of which the traces may be now discerned, and was at last not destroyed by the tumultu- ous violence of Knox, but more shamefully suffered to dilapidate by deliberate robbery and frigid indifference. There is till extant, in the books of the council, an order, of which I cannot remember the date, but which was doubtless issued after the reformation, directing that the lead, 17 which covers the two cathedrals of Elgin and Aberdeen, shall be taken away, and converted into money for the support of the army. A Scotch army was in those times very cheaply kept; yet the lead of two churches must have borne so small a proportion to any military expense, that it is hard not to believe the reason alleged to be merely popular, and the money intended for some private purse. The order, however, was obeyed ; the two churches were stripped, and the lead was shipped to be sold in Holland. I hope every reader will rejoice that this cargo of sacrilege was lost at sea. 32 Let us not, however, make too much haste to despise our neighbors. Our own cathedrals are moldering by unregarded dilapidation. It seems to be part of the 17 To use a word of Burke's, they " unplumbed " the Cathedrals. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 81 despicable philosophy of the time to despise monuments of sacred magnificence, and we are in danger of doing that deliberately, which the Scots did not do but in the unsettled state of an imperfect constitution. Those who had once uncovered the cathedrals never wished to cover them again ; and being thus made use- less, they were first neglected, and perhaps, as the stone was wanted, afterward demolished. FORES. — CALDER. — FORT GEORGE. 33 We went forward the same day to Fores the town to which Macbeth was traveling when he met the weird sisters in his way. 18 This to an Englishman is classic ground. Our imaginations were heated, and our thoughts recalled to their old amusements. 34 We had now a prelude to the Highlands. We began to leave fertility and culture behind us, and saw for a great length of road nothing but heath ; yet at Fochabers, a seat belonging to the Duke of Gordon, there is an orchard, which in Scotland I had never seen before, with some timber-trees, and a plantation of oaks. 35 At Fores we found good accommodation, but nothing worthy of particular remark, and next morning entered upon the road on which Macbeth heard the fatal pre- diction ; 19 but we traveled on, not interrupted by promises of kingdoms, and came to Nairn, a royal burgh, which, if 18 And saluted them with : — " How far is't called to Fores? " Then without waiting for the information, the sight being more interesting, he thought aloud : — " What are these So withered and so w'ld in their attire, That look not like th' inhabitants o' th' earth, And yet are on't ? " w The witches " all-hailed " him, Glamis, Cawdor, King hereafter. 6 82 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES once it flourished, is now in a state of miserable decay ; but I know not whether its chief annual magistrate has not still the title of Lord Provost. 36 At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands ; for here I first saw peat fires, and first heard the Erse lan- guage. We had no motive to stay longer than to break- fast, and went forward to the house of Mr. Macaulay, the minister who published an account of St. Kilda, and by his direction visited Calder Castle, from which Mac- beth drew his second title. It has been formerly a place of strength. The drawbridge is still to be seen, but the moat is now dry. 37 We were favored by a gentleman, who lives in the castle, with a letter to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the most regular fortification in the island, well deserves the notice of a traveler who has never traveled before. We went thither next day, found a very kind, reception, were led round the works by a gen- tleman who explained the use of every part, and enter- tained by Sir Eyre Coote, 20 the governor, with such elegance of conversation as left us no attention to the delicacies of his table. INVERNESS. 38 Inverness was the last place which had a regular com- munication by high roads with the southern counties. Here is a castle, called the Castle of Macbeth, the walls of which are yet standing. It was no very capa- 20 Commander of the British army in India. " The appearance of Eyre Coote checked the progress of Hyder Ali, and in 1781 the victory of Porto Novo hurled him, back into the fastnesses of My- sore." — Green. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 83 cions edifice, but stands upon a rock so high and steep, that I think it was once not accessible but by the help of ladders, or a bridge. Over against it, on another hill, was a fort built by Cromwell, now totally demolished; for no faction of Scotland loved the name of Cromwell, or had any desire to continue his memory. Yet what the Romans did to other nations, was in a great degree done by Cromwell to the Scots ; he civilized them by conquest, and introduced by useful violence the arts of peace. I was told at Aberdeen that the people learned from Cromwell's soldiers to make shoes and to plant kail. 39 How they lived without kail, it is not easy to guess ; they cultivate hardly any other plant for common tables, and when they had not kail they probably had nothing. The numbers that go barefoot are still sufficient to show that shoes may be spared ; they are not yet considered as necessaries of life ; for tall boys, not otherwise meanly dressed, run without them in the streets ; and in the islands the sons of gentlemen pass several of their first years with naked feet. 40 I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have attained the liberal, without the manual, arts, to have excelled in ornamental knowledge, and to have wanted not only the elegancies, but the conveniences of common life. Literature, soon after its revival, found its way to Scotland, and from the middle of the sixteenth century almost to the middle of the seventeenth, the politer studies were very diligently pursued. Yet men thus ingenious and inquisitive were content to live in total ignorance of the trades by which human wants are supplied, and to supply them by the grossest 84 A TOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES means. Till the Union 21 made them acquainted with English manners, the culture of their lands was unskillful, and their domestic life unformed. 41 Since they have known that their condition was ca- pable of improvement, their progress in useful knowledge has been rapid and uniform. What remains to be done they will quickly do, and then wonder, like me, why that which was so necessary and so easy was so long delayed. But they must be forever content to owe to the English that elegance and culture, which, if they had been vigilant and active, perhaps the English might have owed to them. 42 Here the appearance of life began to alter. I had seen a few women with plaids at Aberdeen : but at Inverness the Highland manners are common. There is, I think, a kirk in which only the Erse language is used. There is likewise an English chapel, but meanly built, where on Sunday we saw a very decent congregation. 43 We were now to bid farewell to the luxury of travel- ing, and to enter a country, upon which perhaps no wheel has ever rolled. We could indeed have used our post-chaise one day longer, but we could have hired no horses beyond Inverness, and we were not so sparing of ourselves as to lead them, merely that we might have one day longer the indulgence of a carriage. 44 At Inverness, therefore, we procured three horses for ourselves and a servant, and one more for our baggage, which was no very heavy load. We found in the course of our journey the convenience of having disencumbered ourselves, by laying aside whatever we could spare; for 21 The Doctor does not allow one to forget what he thinks Scot- land owes to England. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 85 it is not to be imagined without experience, how in climbing crags, and treading bogs, and winding through narrow and obstructed passages, a little bulk will hinder, and a little weight will burden. LOCH NESS. 45 We took two Highlanders to run beside us, partly to show us the way, and partly to take back from the seaside the horses, of which they were the owners. One of them was a man of great liveliness and activity, of whom his companion said, that he would tire any horse in Inverness. Both of them were civil and ready-handed. Civility seems part of the national character of High- landers. Every chieftain is a monarch, and politeness, the natural product of royal government, is diffused from the laird through the whole clan. But they are not commonly dexterous ; their narrowness of life confines them to a few operations, and they are accustomed to endure little wants more than to remove them. 46 We mounted our steeds on the 28th of August, and directed our guides to conduct us to Fort Augustus. It is built at the head of Loch Ness, of which Inverness stands at the outlet. The way between them has been cut by the soldiers, and the greater part of it runs along a rock, leveled with great labor and exactness, near the water-side. 47 Most of this day's journey was very pleasant. The day, though bright, was not hot ; and the appearance of the country, if I had not seen the Peak, would have been wholly new. We went upon a surface so hard and level, that we had little care to hold the bridle, and were there- fore at full leisure for contemplation. On the left were 86 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES high and steepy rocks shaded with birch, the hardy native of the north, and covered with fern or heath. On the right the limpid waters of Loch Ness were beating their bank, and waving their surface by a gentle agi- tation. Beyond them were rocks sometimes covered with verdure, and sometimes towering in horrid nakedness. Now and then we espied a little cornfield, which served to impress more strongly the general barrenness. 48 It was said at Fort Augustus, that Loch Ness is open in the hardest winters, though a lake not far from it is covered with ice. In discussing these exceptions from the course of nature, the first question is, whether the fact be justly stated. That which is strange is delightful, and a pleasing error is not willingly detected. Accuracy of narration is not very common, and there are few so rigidly philosophical, as not to represent as perpetual what is only frequent, or as constant what is really casual. 49 Near the way, by the water-side, we espied a cottage. This was the first Highland hut that I had seen ; and as our business was with life and manners, we were willing to visit it. To enter a habitation without leave seems to be not considered here as rudeness or intrusion. The old laws of hospitality still give this license to a stranger. 50 A hut is constructed with loose stones, ranged for the most part with some tendency to circularity. It must be placed where the wind cannot act upon it with violence, because it has no cement; and where the water will run easily away, because it has no floor but the naked ground. The wall, which is commonly about six feet high, de- clines from the perpendicular a little inward. No light is admitted, but at the entrance, and through a hole in DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 87 the thatch, which gives vent to the smoke. This hole is not directly over the fire, lest the rain should extin- guish it, and the smoke therefore naturally fills the place before it escapes. Such is the general structure of the houses in which one of the nations of this opulent and powerful island has been hitherto content to live. Huts, however, are not more uniform than palaces ; and this which we were inspecting was very far from one of the meanest, for it was divided into several apartments ; and its inhabitants possessed such property as a pastoral poet might exalt into riches. FALL OF FIERS. 51 Toward evening we crossed, by a bridge, the river which makes the celebrated Fall of Fiers. The country at the bridge strikes the imagination with all the gloom and grandeur of Siberian solitude. The way makes a flexure, and the mountains, covered with trees, rise at once on the left hand and in the front. But we visited the place at an unseasonable time, and found it divested of its dignity and terror. Nature never gives everything at once. A long continuance of dry weather, which made the rest of the way easy and delightful, deprived us of the pleasure expected from the Fall of Fiers.- The river having now no water but what the springs supply, showed us only a swift current, clear and shallow, fretting over the asperities of the rocky bottom. The way now grew less easy, descending by an uneven declivity, but without either dirt or danger. We did not arrive at Fort Augustus till it was late. Mr. Boswell, who between his father's merit and his own, is sure of 88 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES reception wherever he comes, sent a servant before to beg admission and entertainment for that night. FORT AUGUSTUS. 52 In the morning we viewed the fort, which is much less than that of St. George, and is said to be commanded by the neighboring hills. It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders. But its situation seems well chosen for pleasure, if not for strength; it stands at the head of the lake, and, by a sloop of sixty tons, is supplied from Inverness with great convenience. 53 We were now to cross the Highlands toward the western coast, and to content ourselves with such ac- commodations, as a way so little frequented could afford. The country is totally denuded of its wood, but the stumps both of oaks and firs, which are still found, show that it has been once a forest of large timber. I do not remember that we saw any animals, but we were told that, in the mountains, there are stags, roebucks, goats, and rabbits. We did not perceive that this tract was possessed by human beings, except that once we saw a cornfield, in which a lady was walking with some gentlemen. Their house was certainly at no great distance, but so situated that we could not descry it. 54 Passing on through the dreariness of solitude, we found a party of soldiers from the fort, working on the road, under the superintendence of a sergeant. We told them how kindly we had been treated at the garrison, and as we were enjoying the benefit of their labors, begged leave to show our gratitude by a small present. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 89 ANOCH. 55 Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch, a village in Glenmollison of three huts, one of which is distinguished by a chimney. Here we were to dine and lodge, and were conducted through the first room, that had the chimney, into another lighted by a small glass window. The landlord attended us with great civility, and told us what he could give us to eat and drink. I found some books on a shelf, among which were a volume or more of " Prideaux's Connexion." This I mentioned as something unexpected, and per- ceived that I did not please him. I praised the propriety of his language, and was answered that I need not won- der, for he had learned it by grammar. 56 By subsequent opportunities of observation, I found that my host's diction had nothing peculiar. Those Highlanders that can speak English, commonly speak it well, with few of the words, and little of the tone by which a Scotchman is distinguished. Their language seems to have been learned in the army or the navy, or by some communication with those who could give them good examples of accent and pronunciation. By their Lowland neighbors they would not willingly be taught ; for they have long considered them as a mean and de- generate race. These prejudices are wearing fast away; but so much of them still remains, that when I asked a very learned minister in the islands, which they con- sidered as their most savage clans, " Those," said he, " that live next the Lowlands." 57 Some time after dinner we were surprised by the entrance of a young woman, not inelegant either in 9 o A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES mien or dress, who asked us whether we would have tea. We found that she was the daughter of our host, and desired her to make it. Her conversation, like her appear- ance, was gentle and pleasing. We knew that the girls of the Highlands are all gentlewomen, and treated her with great respect, which she received as customary and due, and was neither elated by it, nor confused, but repaid my civilities without embarrassment, and told me how much I honored her country by coming to survey it. 58 In the evening the soldiers, whom we had passed on the road, came to spend at our inn the little money that we had given them. They had the true military im- patience of coin in their pockets, and had marched at least six miles to find the first place where liquor could be bought. Having never been before in a place so wild and unfrequented, I was glad of their arrival, because I knew that we had made them friends, and to gain still more of their good-will, we went to them where they were carousing in the barn, and added something to our former gift. All that we gave was not much, but it detained them in the barn either merry or quarreling, the whole night, and in the morning they went back to their work, with great indignation at the bad qualities of whisky. 59 We had gained so much the favor of our host, that when we left his house in the morning, he walked by us a great way, and entertained us with conversation both on his own condition, and that of the country. His life seemed to be merely pastoral, except that he differed from some of the ancient Nomades in having a settled dwelling. His wealth consists of one hundred sheep, as many goats, twelve milk cows, and twenty-eight beeves ready for the drover. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 9 1 60 From him we first heard of the general dissatisfaction which is now driving" the Highlanders into the other hemisphere ; "and when I asked him whether they would stay at home if they were well treated, he answered with indignation, that no man willingly left his native coun- try. Of the farm, which he himself occupied, the rent had, in twenty-five years, been advanced from five to twenty pounds, which he found himself so little able to pay that he would be glad to try his fortune in some other place. 61 Our host having amused us for a time, resigned us to our guides. The journey of this day was long, not that the distance was great, but that the way was difficult. We were now in the bosom of the Highlands, with full leisure to contemplate the appearance and properties of mountainous regions, such as have been, in many coun- tries, the last shelters of national distress, and are every- where the scenes of adventures, stratagems, surprises, and escapes. 62 Mountainous countries are not passed but with diffi- culty ; not merely from the labor of climbing, for to climb is not always necessary : but because that which is not mountain is commonly bog, through which the way must be picked with caution. Where there are hills, there is much rain, and the torrents pouring down into the intermediate spaces, seldom find so ready an outlet as not to stagnate till they have broken the texture of the ground. 63 Of the hills, which our journey offered to the view on either side, we did not take the height, nor did we see any that astonished us with their loftiness. Toward the summit of one there was a white spot, which I should have called a naked rock ; but the guides, who had better 92 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES eyes and were acquainted with the phenomena of the country, declared it to be snow. It had already lasted to the end of August, and was likely to maintain its con- test with the sun till it should be reinforced by winter. 64 We passed many rivers and rivulets, which commonly ran with a clear shallow stream over a hard pebbly bot- tom. These channels, which seem so much wider than the water that they convey would naturally require, are formed by the violence of wintry floods, produced by the accumulation of innumerable streams that fall in rainy weather from the hills, and bursting away with resistless impetuosity, make themselves a passage proportionate to their mass. 65 Of the hills many may be called, with Homer's Ida, " abundant in springs," but few can deserve the epithet which he bestows upon Pelion, by " waving their leaves." They exhibit very little variety; being almost wholly covered with dark heath, and even that seems to be checked in its growth. What is not heath is nakedness, a little diversified by now and then a stream rushing down the steep. An eye accustomed to flowery pastures and waving harvests is astonished and repelled by this wide extent of hopeless sterility. 66 It will very readily occur, that this uniformity of barrenness can afford very little amusement to the trav- eler; that it is easy to sit at home and conceive rocks, and heath, and waterfalls: and that these journeys are useless labors, which neither impregnate the imagination nor enlarge the understanding. It is true, that of far the greater part of things we must content ourselves with such knowledge as description may exhibit, or analogy supply; but it is true likewise, that these ideas are al- DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 93 ways incomplete, and that, at least till we have compared them with realities, we do not know them to be just. 67 Regions mountainous and wild, thinly inhabited, and little cultivated, make a great part of the earth, and he that has never seen them must live unacquainted with much of the face of nature, and with one of the great scenes of human existence. 68 As the day advanced toward noon, we entered a nar- row valley not very flowery, but sufficiently verdant. Our guides told us, that the horses could not travel all day without rest or meat, and entreated us to stop here, because no grass would be found in any other place. The request was reasonable, and the argument cogent. We therefore willingly dismounted, and diverted our- selves as the place gave us opportunity. 69 I sat down on a bank, such as a writer of romance might have delighted to feign. I had indeed no trees to whisper over my head, but a clear rivulet streamed at my feet. The day was calm, the air was soft, and all was rudeness, silence, and solitude. Before me, and on either side, were high hills, which by hindering the eye from ranging, forced the mind to find entertainment — for itself. Whether I spent the hour well I know not; for here I first conceived the thought of this narration. 70 We were in this place at ease and by choice, and had no evils to suffer or to fear ; yet the imaginations excited by the view of an unknown and untraveled wilderness are not such as arise in the artificial solitude of parks and 22 " Arrived there, the little house they fill, Ne looke for entertainment, where none was : Rest is their feast, and all things at their will : The noblest mind the best contentment has." — The Faerie Quccne, Book I, Canto I , line 35. 94 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES gardens, a flattering notion of self-sufficiency, a placid indulgence of. voluntary delusions, a secure expansion of the fancy, or a cool concentration of the mental powers. The phantoms which haunt a desert are want and mis- ery and danger; the evils of dereliction rush upon the thoughts ; man is made unwillingly acquainted with his own weakness, and meditation shows him only how little he can sustain, and how little he can perform. There were no traces of inhabitants, except, perhaps, a rude pile of clods, called a summer hut, in which a herdsman had rested in the favorable seasons. GLENSHEALS. 71 We were now at a place where we could obtain milk, but must have wanted bread if we had not brought it. The people of this valley did not appear to know any English, and our guides now became doubly necessary as interpreters. A woman, whose hut was distinguished by greater spaciousness and better architecture, brought out some pails of milk. The villagers gather about us in considerable numbers, I believe without any evil inten- tion, but with a very savage wildness of aspect and man- ner. When our meal was over, Mr. Boswell sliced the bread, and divided it amongst them, as he supposed them never to have tasted a wheaten loaf before. He then gave them little pieces of twisted tobacco, and among the children we distributed a small handful of halfpence, which they received with great eagerness. Yet I have been since told, that the people of that valley are not indigent; and when we mentioned them afterward as needy and pitiable, a Highland lady let us know, that we might spare our commiseration ; for the dame whose DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 95 milk we drank had probably more than a dozen milk cows. She seemed unwilling to take any price, but being pressed to make a demand, at last named a shilling. Honesty is not greater where elegance is less. One of the by-standers, as we were told afterward, advised her to ask more, but she said a shilling was enough. We gave her half-a-crown, and I hope got some credit by our behavior ; for the company said, if our interpreters did not flatter us, that they had not seen such a day since the old laird of Macleod passed through their country. GLENELG. 72 We left Auknasheals and the Macraes in the after- noon, and in the evening came to Ratikin, a high hill on which a road is cut, but so steep and narrow that it is very difficult. There is now a design of making another way round the bottom. Upon one of the precipices my horse, weary with the steepness of the rise, staggered a little, and I called in haste to the Highlander to hold him. This was the only moment of my journey in which I thought myself endangered. 73 Having surmounted the hill at last, we were told that at Glenelg, on the sea-side, we should come to a house of lime, and slate, and glass. This image of magnificence raised our expectation. At last we came to our inn, weary and peevish, and began to inquire for meat and beds. 74 Of the provisions the negative catalogue was very copious. Here was no meat, no milk, no bread, no eggs, no wine. We did not express much satisfaction. Here, however, we were to stay. Whisky we might have, and I believe at last they caught a fowl and killed it ; we 9 6 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES had some bread, and with that we prepared ourselves to be contented, when we had a very eminent proof of Highland hospitality. Along some miles of the way in the evening, a gentleman's servant had kept us company on foot with very little notice on our part. He left us near Glenelg, and we thought on him no more till he came to us again in about two hours, with a present from his master of rum and sugar. 75 We were now to examine our lodging. Out 23 of one of the beds on which we were to repose, started up at our entrance a man black as a Cyclops from the forge. Other circumstances of no elegant recital concurred to disgust us. We had been frighted by a lady at Edin- burgh with discouraging representations of Highland lodgings. Sleep, however, was necessary. Our High- landers had at last found some hay, with which the inn could not supply them; I directed them to bring a bun- dle into the room, and slept upon it in my riding coat. Mr. Boswell being more delicate, laid himself sheets, with hay over and under him, and lay in linen like a gentleman. SKYE. ARMIDEL. 76 In the morning, September the twentieth, we found ourselves on the edge of the sea. Having procured a boat, we dismissed our Highlanders, whom I would recommend to the service of any future travelers, and 23 In his essay on Croker's Boswell's Johnson, Macaulay says that the original form of this " Tour " was a series of letters to Mrs. Thrale. The learned world has had sport over what it was pleased to call " Johnsonese." Macaulay quotes this passage from the Letters: "A dirty fellow bounced out of the bed in which one of us was to lie." From this Johnson translated it into the form it has in the text. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 97 were ferried over to the isle of Skye. We landed at Armidel, where we were met on the sands by Sir Alex- ander Macdonald, who was at that time there "with his lady, preparing to leave the island and reside at Edin- burgh. 77 As we sat at Sir Alexander's table, we were enter- tained, according to the ancient usage of the north, with the melody of the bagpipe. Everything in those coun- tries has its history. As the bagpiper was playing, an elderly gentleman informed us that in some remote time the Macdonalds of Glengary having been injured or offended by the inhabitants of Culloden, and resolving to have justice or vengeance, came to Culloden on a Sunday, where, finding their enemies at worship, they shut them up in the church, which they set on fire ; and this, said he, is the tune that the piper played while they were burning. 78 He that travels in the Highlands may easily saturate his soul with intelligence, if he will acquiesce in the first account. The Highlander gives to every question an answer so prompt and peremptory, that scepticism itself is dared into silence, and the mind sinks before the bold reporter in unresisting credulity ; but if a sec- ond question be ventured, it breaks the enchantment ; for it is immediately discovered, that what was told so confidently was told at hazard, and that such fearlessness of assertion was either the sport of negligence, or the refuge of ignorance. 79 In our passage from Scotland to Skye, we were- wet for the first time with a shower. This was the beginning of the Highland winter, after which we were told that a succession of three dry days was not to be expected for 7 98 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES many months. The winter of the Hebrides consists of little more than rain and wind. As they are surrounded by an ocean never frozen, the blasts that come to them over the water are too much softened to have the power of congelation. The salt lochs, or inlets of the sea, which shoot very far into the island, never have any ice upon them, and the pools of fresh water will never bear the walker. The snow that sometimes falls is soon dis- solved by the air or the rain. CORIATACHAN IN SKYE. 80 The third or fourth day after our arrival at Armidel brought us an invitation to the isle of Raasay, which lies east of Skye. It is incredible how soon the account of any event is propagated in these narrow countries by the love of talk which much leisure produces, and the relief given to the mind in the penury of insular conversation by a new topic. I know not whether we touched at any corner, where fame had not already prepared us a re- ception. 81 To gain a commodious passage to Raasay, it was nec- essary to pass over a large part of Skye. We were fur- nished therefore with horses and a guide. In the islands there are no roads, nor any marks by which a stranger may find his way. But there seems to be in all this more alarm than danger. The Highlander walks carefully before, and the horse, accustomed to the ground, follows him with little deviation. Sometimes the hill is too steep for the horse- man to keep his seat, and sometimes the moss is too tremulous to bear the double weight of horse and man. The rider then dismounts, and all shift as they can. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 99 82 The weather was next day too violent for the con- tinuation of our journey; but we had no reason to com- plain of the interruption. We saw in every place what we chiefly desired to know — the manners of the people. We had company, and if we had chosen retirement, we might have had books. I never was in any house of the islands where I did not find books in more languages than one, if I had stayed long enough to want them, except one from which the family was removed. Literature is not neglected by the higher rank of the Hebridians. 83 It need not, I suppose, be mentioned, that in countries so little frequented as the islands, there are no houses where travelers are entertained for money. He that wanders about these wilds, either procures recommenda- tions to those whose habitations lie near his way, or, when night and weariness come upon him, takes the chance of general hospitality. If he finds only a cottage, he can expect little more than shelter, for the cottagers have little more for themselves ; but if his good fortune brings him to the residence of a gentleman, he will be glad of a storm to prolong his stay. 84 At the tables where a stranger is received neither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited must have much wild-fowl ; and I scarcely remember to have seen a dinner without them. The moor-game is everywhere to be had. That the sea abounds with fish needs not be told, for it supplies a great part of Europe. 85 A man of the Hebrides, for of the women's diet I can give no account, as soon as he appears in the morning, swallows a glass of whisky ; yet they are not a drunken Lc ioo A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES race, at least I never was present at much intemperance ; but no man is so abstemious as to refuse the morning dram, which they call a skalk. The word whisky sig- nifies water, and is applied by way of eminence to strong water, or distilled liquor. The spirit drank in the north is drawn from barley. I never tasted it, except once for experiment at the inn in Inveraray, when I thought it preferable to any English malt brandy. 86 Not long after the dram may be expected the break- fast, a meal in which the Scots, whether of the lowlands or mountains, must be confessed to excel us. The tea and coffee are accompanied not only with butter, but with honey, conserves, and marmalades. If an epicure could remove by a wish, in quest of sensual gratifications, 24 wherever he had supped, he would breakfast in Scotland. In the islands, however, they do what I found it not very easy to endure. They pollute the tea-table by plates piled with large slices of Cheshire cheese, which mingles its less grateful odors with the fragrance of the tea. 87 Where many questions are to be asked, some will be omitted. I forgot to inquire how they were supplied with so much exotic luxury. Perhaps the French may bring them wine for wool, and the Dutch give them tea and coffee at the fishing season, in exchange for fresh pro- vision. Their trade is unconstrained ; they pay no cus- toms, for there is no officer to demand them ; whatever, therefore, is made dear only by impost, is obtained here at an easy rate. 88 A dinner in the Western Islands differs very little from a dinner in England, except that in the place of 24 travel by a wish in search of delicacies. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 101 tarts there are always set different preparations of milk. This part of their diet will admit some improvement. Though they have milk, and eggs, and sugar, few of them know how to compound them in a custard. Their gar- dens afford them no great variety, but they have always some vegetables on the table. Potatoes at least are never wanting, which, though they have not known them long, are now one of the principal parts of their food. They are not of the mealy, but of the viscous kind. 89 The knives are not often either very bright or very sharp. They are indeed instruments of which the High- landers have not been long acquainted with the general use. They were not regularly laid on the table, before the prohibition of arms, and the change of dress. Thirty years ago the Highlander wore his knife as a companion to his dirk or dagger, and when the company sat down to meat, the men who had knives cut the flesh into small pieces for the women, who with their fingers conveyed it to their mouths. 90 There was, perhaps, never any change of national manners so quick, so great, and so general, as that which has operated in the Highlands, by the last conquest, 25 and the subsequent laws. We came thither too late to see what we expected, a people of peculiar appearance, and a system of antiquated life. Of what they had before the late conquest of their country, there remain only their language and their poverty. Their language is attacked on every side. Schools are erected, in which English only is taught, and there were lately some who thought it reasonable to refuse them a version of the holy Scrip- In 1746, by the Duke of Cumberland. 102 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES tures, that they might have no monument 26 of their mother-tongue. That their poverty is gradually abated cannot be mentioned among the unpleasing consequences of sub- jection. They are now acquainted with money, and the possibility of gain will by degrees make them industrious. Such is the effect of the late regulations, that a longer journey than to the Highlands must be taken by him whose curiosity pants for savage virtues and barbarous grandeur. RAASAY. 91 At the first intermission of the stormy weather we were informed that the boat, which was to convey us to Raasay, attended 27 us on the coast. We had from this time our intelligence facilitated 28 and our conversation enlarged by the company of Mr. Macqueen, minister of a parish in Skye, whose knowledge and politeness give him a title equally to kindness and respect, and who from this time never forsook us till we were preparing to leave Skye and the adjacent places. 92 The boat was under the direction of Mr. Malcolm Macleod, a gentleman of Raasay. The water was calm and the rowers were vigorous, so that our passage was quick and pleasant. When we came near the island we saw the laird's house, a neat modern fabric, and found Mr. Macleod, the proprietor of the island, with many gentlemen, expecting us on the beach. We had, as at all other places, some difficulty in landing. The crags were 20 something to remind them of. 27 waited for. 28 process made easy. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 103 irregularly broken, and a false step would have been very mischievous. 29 93 Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments and the usual conversation, the even- ing came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off" the floor ; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air of festivity which pre- dominated in this place, so far remote from all those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light. 94 When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six- and-thirty persons sat down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse 30 songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera, delighted with the sound of words which I did not understand. I inquired the subjects of the songs, and was told of one that it was a love song, and of another that it was a farewell composed by one of the islanders that was going, in this epidemical fury of emigration, to seek his fortune in America. What sentiments would rise on such an occasion in the heart of one who had not been taught to lament by precedent I should gladly have known ; but the lady by whom I sat thought herself not equal to the work of translating. injurious. Gaelic. 104 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES 95 Mr. Macleod is the proprietor of the islands of Raa- say, Rona, and Fladda, and possesses an extensive district in Skye. The estate has not during four hundred years gained or lost a single acre. 96 It is not very easy to fix the principles upon which mankind have agreed to eat some animals and reject others. An Englishman is not easily persuaded to dine on snails with an Italian, on frogs with a Frenchman, or on horse-flesh with a Tartar. The vulgar 31 inhabit- ants of Skye, I know not whether of the other islands, have not only eels, but pork and bacon in abhorrence. 97 In Raasay they might have hares and rabbits, for they have no foxes. Some depredations, such as were never made before, have caused a suspicion that a fox has been lately landed in the island by spite or wantonness. How beasts of prey came into any islands is not easy to guess. In cold countries they take advantage of hard winters, and travel over the ice ; but this is a very scanty 32 solu- tion, for they are found where they have no discoverable means of coming. 98 The corn 33 of this island is but little. I saw the harvest of a small field. The women reaped the corn and the men bound up the sheaves. The strokes of the sickle were timed by the modulation of the harvest-song, in which all their voices were united. They accompany in the Highlands every action which can be done in equal time with an appropriate strain, which has, they say, not much meaning; but its effects are regularity and cheerfulness. The ancient song by which the rowers 31 common people. 82 poor, unsatisfactory. 83 grain. DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 105 ,of galleys were animated may be supposed to have been of this kind. There is now an oar-song used by the Hebridians. 99 The ground of Raasay seems fitter for cattle than for corn ; and of black cattle, I suppose, the number is very great. The laird himself keeps a herd of four hundred, one hundred of which are annually sold. Of an exten- sive domain, which he holds in his own hands, he con- siders the sale of the cattle as repaying him the rent, and supports the plenty of a very liberal table with the re- maining product. 100 Raasay is supposed to have been very long inhabited. On one side of it they show caves into which the rude nations of the first ages retreated from the weather. These dreary vaults might have had other uses. There is still a cavity near the house called the oar-cave, in which the seamen, after one of those piratical expedi- tions, which in rougher times were very frequent, used, as tradition tells, to hide their oars. This hollow was near the sea, that nothing so necessary might be far to be fetched ; and it was secret, that enemies, if they landed, could find nothing. Yet it is not very evident of what use it was to hide their oars from those, who if they were masters of the coast, could take away their boats. 101 A proof much stronger of the distance at which the first possessors of this island lived from the present time, is afforded by the stone heads of arrows, which are very frequently picked up. The people call them elf-bolts, and believe that the fairies shoot them at the cattle. 102 The number of this little community has never been counted by its ruler, nor have I obtained any positive account, consistent with the result of political computa- 106 A JOURNEY TO THE HEBRIDES tion. Not many years ago the late laird led out one hundred men upon a military expedition. The sixth part of a people is supposed capable of bearing arms : Raasay had therefore six hundred inhabitants. But because it is not likely that every man able to serve in the field would follow the summons, or that the chief would leave his lands totally defenseless, or take away all the hands qualified for labor, let it be supposed that half as many might be permitted to stay at home. 103 Near the house at Raasay is a chapel, unroofed and ruinous, which has long been used only as a place of burial. About the churches in the islands are small squares inclosed with stone, which belong to particular families, as repositories for the dead. At Raasay there is one, I think, for the proprietor, and one for some col- lateral house. 104 It has been, for many years, popular to talk of the lazy devotion of the Romish clergy ; over the sleepy laziness of men that erected churches we may indulge our superiority with a new triumph, by comparing it with the fervid activity of those who suffer them to fall. Of the destruction of churches, the decay of religion must in time be the consequence ; for while the public acts of the ministry are now performed in houses, a very small number can be present; and as the greater part of the islanders make no use of books, all must necessarily live in total ignorance who want the opportunity of vocal instruction. 105 From these remains of ancient sanctity, which are everywhere to be found, it has been conjectured that for the last two centuries the inhabitants of the islands have decreased in number. This argument, which sup- DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON 107 poses that the churches have been suffered to fall only because they were no longer necessary would have some force if the houses of worship still remaining were suffi- cient for the people. But since they have now no churches at all, these venerable fragments do not prove the people of former times to have been more numerous but to have been more devout. 106 Raasay has little that can detain a traveler, except the laird and his family ; but their power wants no auxiliaries. Such a seat of hospitality, amidst the winds and waters, fills the imagination with a delightful con- trariety of images. Without is the rough ocean and the rocky land, the beating billows and the howling storm ; within is plenty and elegance, beauty and gaiety, the song and the dance. In Raasay, if I could have found an Ulysses, I had fancied a Phaeacia. 34 DUNVEGAN. 107 At Raasay, by good fortune, Macleod, so the chief of the clan is called, was paying a visit, and by him we were invited to his seat at Dunvegan. Raasay has a stout boat, built in Norway, in which, with six oars, he conveyed us back to Skye. We landed at Port Re, so called because James 35 the Fifth of Scotland, who had curiosity to visit the islands, came into it. The port is made by an inlet of the sea, deep and narrow, where a ship lay waiting to dispeople Skye, by carrying the natives away to America. M The last tarrying place of Ulysses, the hero of Homer's Odyssey, the king of Ithaca, the husband of Penelope. The Ph