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OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 BY 
 
 IRENE SIMMONDS 
 
 
 7lR!ST0P)(EI^ 
 
 PUBUSHING 
 HOUSE 
 
 BOSTON 
 
.S4 
 
 Copyright igij 
 By Irene Simmonds 
 
 V 
 
 m 14 1918 
 
 ©CI.A479967 
 
FOEEWOED 
 
 The author has given, in this book, a de- 
 lightful account of personal experiences, 
 in a day by day diary of travel through 
 countries that will, alas, never again be 
 seen in their old-time quiet setting. "Our 
 Trip to Europe" is one of the many books 
 that will be of increasing interest as time 
 passes, on account of its description of 
 places and peoples wholly changed by the 
 ravages of the present war. It is only in 
 such books of travel, written before the ter- 
 rible destruction of the past three years, 
 that will be preserved to the future a record 
 of the quaint and distinctive charm of many 
 old-world towns. 
 
^^OUE TRIP TO EUROPE'' 
 
 Ireland 
 
 June 9tli^ 1909. My husband and I drove 
 to the Dartmouth train and although it was 
 very early in the morning, it did not prevent 
 a large number of friends being there to see 
 us off. 
 
 We went to Boston by way of Yarmouth 
 and sailed from East Boston in the steamer 
 Saxonia of the Cunard line for Queenstown, 
 Ireland. We had a very fine stateroom, 
 with a large closet for our clothes, a table, 
 large sofa, two large windows, and very nice 
 beds. The dining room was spacious, reach- 
 ing from side to side of the ship. 
 
 The tables were elegant with glass, silver, 
 and costly flowers, such as roses, carnations, 
 orchids, etc. The weather was beautifully 
 fine and warm. June 20th we attended 
 Divine Service at half past ten on the main 
 deck, which was beautifully decorated with 
 flags. 
 
 The text was : "I go to prepare a place for 
 you,'' and was listened to with close atten- 
 tion. The first hymn was : "All people that 
 on earth do dwell," second, "The Church's 
 one foundation." 
 
 June 23. We landed at Queenstown, ten 
 
6 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 o'clock in the evening, put up at the Queen 
 Hotel. After breakfast next morning we 
 drove around the town in an Irish jaunting 
 car, a two wheeled vehicle with the seats 
 side ways, back to back; they are delight- 
 ful to drive in. The to\^ai is built on a 
 steep hill, and the streets are terraced; some 
 of the streets have a high wall on either 
 side. The walls were covered with lovely 
 soft ivy. There were some beautiful hedges, 
 one in particular was of lovely Fuchsia. I 
 have seen hedges of many kinds of flowers 
 but I think that one was the finest of all. 
 We went in some of the shops and bought 
 some curios. Then we went to the esplanade 
 and sat for a while under the lovely shade 
 trees, and soon it was time to take the train 
 for Cork. About an hour by train, and we 
 arrived in that city, and went to the Impe- 
 rial Hotel, a very fine one, and right in the 
 lieart of the city. This city, like Queens- 
 toAvn, is built on the side of a range of hills, 
 and the situation is exceedingly beautiful. 
 
 In the afternoon we hired a jaunting car 
 and drove to Blarney Castle, a distance of 
 eight or nine miles — such a lovely drive 
 through the most beautiful country I had 
 ever seen; no unsightly fences, just walls, 
 built so evenly and of splendid masonry 
 work. These walls were around all the 
 farms, and on both sides of the road, as far 
 as the eye could see. Some of the walls 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 7 
 
 looked like hedges they were so covered with 
 ivy. We saw some trees which our driver 
 called flowering willow, they were rather 
 large trees, and were covered with long 
 tassel-like flowers of a bright yellow color, 
 which could be seen quite a distance and 
 are a fine sight. 
 
 All along the road sides there are thou- 
 sands of little pink and white daisies, which 
 we would love to have in our gardens. Fox 
 glove and heliotrope grow anywhere by the 
 road side. When we arrived at the Castle 
 there was quite a number of visitors, so we 
 all went up in the tow^er, one hundred and 
 twenty steps to the top. Blarney Castle 
 was built in the 15th century by Cormac 
 McCarthy. It was besieged and taken by 
 the forces of Cromwell. Very little more 
 than the tower remains now; a stone in 
 the Castle wall near the top, has long been 
 endowed by tradition with the power of con- 
 ferring on those who kiss it, a sweet persua- 
 sive eloquence, irresistible. It is built in 
 a dangerous part of the battlement and only 
 the most daring can reach it. 
 
 As w^e returned to our hotel we stopped 
 at the Church of St. Ann's, and hunting up 
 the caretaker for a fee, we heard the beauti- 
 ful bells of Shandon play some lovely hymn 
 tunes, and ending with "Plome, Sweet 
 Home," which made me think of those we 
 
8 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 left at home. St. Aim's was built in 1722, 
 so it is a very old diurcli. 
 
 Friday 25tlL. We came to Killarney and 
 put up at the Lake Hotel, on the shore of the 
 upper lake. We passed many little thatch- 
 ed cottages on our way; they were very 
 small, seemed to have only one room, per- 
 haps two. We passed by some peat bogs, 
 where men were cutting peat in shape of 
 bricks. They stack them up for two or 
 three weeks to dry, then with a donkey and 
 cart they take them to market and sell them 
 for a penny a dozen, not much money for so 
 much work. 
 
 June 26th. We have met a great many 
 English and American tourists at the Hotel. 
 Last week there was a very sad accident on 
 the lake. Near our hotel a boat upset and 
 nine people were drowned, only two or three 
 bodies were recovered, the others were never 
 seen again. 
 
 This morning we hired a boat and two 
 men to row us over the lakes. We left the 
 hotel at nine o'clock, and went across the 
 upper lake to Queen's Cottage on Dinish 
 Island. We went ashore for a while : it was 
 a beautiful place, the cottage being a very 
 pretty one. It was built for Queen Victoria 
 to lodge in when she visited the Killarney 
 lakes. It was covered with climbing roses 
 of many hues and would have delighted the 
 heart of flower lovers. The lawn around 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 9 
 
 the house was just lovely with beds of bright 
 flowers, and such beautiful trees, with their 
 long branches touching the ground, and all 
 through the grass we could see the shamrock 
 growing, which is so dear to the Irish heart. 
 In the cottage an Irish lady had some pretty 
 trinkets for sale, most of them made of bog 
 oak. We bought some of them and some 
 post cards. 
 
 After walking around the grounds we 
 went to our boat, which the boatmen had 
 taken a short distance down the stream, 
 which runs from the upper lake to the 
 middle lake. The waters from the upper 
 lake flow through a narrow channel here 
 and meet the waters of the middle and lower 
 lakes. This is called, the meeting of the 
 waters, made famous by the Irish poet 
 Moore. 
 
 The middle lake is very serpentine and in 
 some places very narrow, indeed. The oars 
 of the boat reached nearly from side to side, 
 part of the way. The day was very fine and 
 the water smooth as glass, the mountains 
 along the sides of the lake were grand, and 
 seemed to nearly reach the sky, and were 
 reflected with all their beautiful colors in 
 the water. We saw some pretty red deer 
 feeding in a meadow quite near the shore. 
 They did not seem the least afraid of us, 
 just gave us a passing glance and went on 
 feeding. 
 
10 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 The boatmen showed us a large rock on 
 either side of the boat in a narrow place, 
 where two giants — a man and his wife — 
 jumped across, from one side to the other, 
 and left the print of their feet in the rock. 
 The marks looked as if the rock had been 
 soft when they jumped across, and they sanl^ 
 down quite a way too. I couldn't help say- 
 ing that I thought some cunning hand had 
 chiseled them out, but the men laughingly 
 declared that they would lose their job if 
 they told lies; but it seems to be part of 
 their training to fib, if by so doing they 
 amuse visitors. After rowing for five miles, 
 they landed us in a lovely spot to have lunch, 
 which they had brought from the Hotel, 
 and which tasted good after our long row in 
 the fresh air. We did not return by the 
 boat but came back over the mountains. 
 H^eav where we landed there was a pretty 
 little cottage, where they sold pretty trifies. 
 After buying some we began our journey 
 back, which was fifteen miles. They say an 
 Irish mile is a mile and a bit, which I quite 
 believed before I got back to the hotel. The 
 first five miles we had to ride on horse back, 
 as the road was quite narrow and rough. 
 At first we had to go up the steep side of a 
 mountain and doA\Ti the other side just as 
 steep. I thought that I must slip off over 
 the horse's tail, and next that I would cer- 
 tainly go over his head, but after leaning 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 11 
 
 first forward and then backward I managed 
 to keep in the saddle. We had two men with 
 us to take the horses back. They were very 
 amusing, they showed us the lake where 
 St. Patrick threw in the last snake, and they 
 have never had any since. I wished that he 
 had banished the flies as well. Here and 
 there along the road side women were sit- 
 ting with baskets of lace and other stuff 
 for sale. It seemed a very slow sale; an 
 old ragged man came out of a hut holding 
 out his hand for a penny. The guide said 
 that he was more than a hundred years old. 
 I could not help wondering what a dismal 
 life it must be away up there in the mount- 
 ain with no other habitation in sight. An- 
 other man away up in the mountain blew a 
 bugle so we could hear the echo, which was 
 very line indeed. Still another man fired a 
 gTin, which sounded like a clap of thunder 
 and echoed from peak to peak. Of course 
 all these kind people had to get sixpence 
 each for their trouble. Coming down the 
 mountain we came to Kate Kearney's cot- 
 tage. As our trip through the Gap of Dunloe 
 was ended, we paid off our guides and their 
 horses. After buying some pretty things in 
 the cottage we hired a fine jaunting car and 
 drove back to the Lake Hotel, a distance of 
 nine or ten miles. The roads in Ireland are 
 so good it is a pleasure to drive on them. 
 The next day we went to Muckross Abbey. 
 
12 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 It is for tlie most part in ruins, still, it was 
 grand. All the lower floors are filled up 
 with tombs and the walls are covered with 
 ivy. We saw many old places such as Mc- 
 Cartie More's old fortress, the Abbey 
 Church in which are many tombs of noted 
 Irish families. 
 
 June 27. We left Killarney and came to 
 Dublin. In the afternoon we went in a 
 street car around part of the city, about 
 four miles, through some beautiful streets, 
 and had glimpses of lovely gardens and 
 elegant trees. 
 
 The street cars are quite different from 
 those in American cities. They are two 
 storied, some have open tops, and some have 
 glass all around. They have a stairway to 
 go up to the top part, on the outside. 
 
 June 28th. In the morning we went to 
 Phoenix Park, saw where lord Cavendish 
 and Mr. Burke were murdered: a round 
 piece of marble is set in the spot where it 
 happened. We also went to Glasnevin 
 Cemetery and saw the massive monument 
 of Daniel O'Connell, and other great men. 
 We went to St. Patrick's Cathedral. It 
 stands on the site of a church built by St. 
 Patrick himself. The present building, we 
 were told, was begun in 1190, but was nearly 
 destroyed by fire in 1362. In recent years 
 the church has been restored by Guinness, 
 the Dublin brewer who spent $140,000 on the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 13 
 
 work. We saw there the tombs of Dean 
 Swift and his Stella. 
 
 After leaving the Cathedral, we went to 
 Dublin Castle and were taken through some 
 of the splendid rooms and Portrait Gallery. 
 Quite near our hotel on Sackville street we 
 saw the Xelson Monument, 121 feet high. 
 From the top we had a fine view of the city. 
 
 We spent a few days in Dublin then went 
 on to Belfast, a large and beautiful city. 
 We hired a jaunting car and drove over to 
 the ship yards where we saw twenty or more 
 large steel steamers in course of construc- 
 tion, besides other small ones. Belfast must 
 have great wealth, to carry on so colossal a 
 business. (I wonder if we shall ever see 
 steel ship building in Halifax.) After 
 seeing the ship yards, we drove over the 
 Queen's bridge to the Albert Memorial 
 Monument, the City Hall, and other beauti- 
 ful buildings. 
 
 I enjoyed going in the stores and seeing 
 real Irish lace, made on the premises. We 
 bought some beautiful lace handkerchiefs, 
 and some fine linen ones. I bought some 
 elegant towels. I wanted to buy heaps of 
 them, they looked so nice. 
 
 After a few days delightfully spent in 
 Belfast we went by train to Port Kush, 
 from there by electric car to Giant's Cause- 
 way, which is a very wonderful collection of 
 stones. They are best seen from the water 
 
14 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 side as they reacli down to tlie shore. I 
 should say there were several acres of them, 
 so evenly set together, that they look as if 
 they must have been placed there, and 
 nearly all the same size, most of them are 
 flat, some seem to be eight sided, and all 
 look as if they had been cut by man, but we 
 were told they were just as Mature made 
 them. Near the shore they seem to be four 
 or five feet high; away back they must be 
 at least fifty or more. There is one mass 
 called the Organ, looks just like a huge pipe 
 organ. Another one is called the Loom. 
 They are a wonderful sight. The electric 
 car took us quite near the Causeway. Then 
 we went to a nice hotel, left our traps and 
 hired a boat and man to row us around the 
 Causewa}^ and into Dunkerry Cave, which 
 was quite near. I think the Cave might 
 have been something like three hundred 
 3^ards long and not more than thirty wide at 
 its entrance. It got narrower as we ad- 
 vanced, the roof was very high, and was 
 arched just like a church. The stone on 
 the sides and roof was of many colors, 
 beautiful to see. The water was light green 
 and looked like silk. After we were quite 
 a Avhile on the water we went back to the 
 hotel and had dinner. It tasted good, for 
 the sea air gave us a keen appetite. After 
 dinner we went back to Belfast, stayed all 
 night and left for Glasgow in the morning. 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 15 
 
 We felt sorry to leave Ireland so soon for 
 tliere is mucli to see there, but our time was 
 limited. 
 
 Scotland 
 
 We were about two bours crossing tbe 
 Irish Channel to Stranraer. There was a 
 large number of passengers on the steamer, 
 the day was fine and the water very smooth, 
 so we enjoyed the trip very much. On land- 
 ing we took a train for Glasgow, we went to 
 the station Hotel St. Enoch, a very swell 
 place. We had a beautiful room, elegant 
 furniture upholstered in plush, beautiful 
 mirrors and the softest carpets, but best of 
 all we had letters from home. I was feeling 
 so anxious to hear how they were at home, 
 so we were both comforted and could enjoy 
 sightseeing so much better. 
 
 July 3rd. Today we went through Glas- 
 gow Cathedral. We fortunately met a City 
 Official who took us through and pointed out 
 the interesting places. If we had been 
 alone we w^ould have missed a great deal. 
 In the afternoon we went to see some of the 
 stores. They are large, but they cannot 
 come up to the London stores, neither in 
 size nor display. It seemed so queer to see 
 girls wheel hand carts around the streets 
 with strawberries, heaped on them, like 
 potatoes, and nearly as large. I never saw 
 such large ones before. 
 
16 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Sunday July 4tli. Went to morning serv- 
 ice in Glasgow's famous cathedral. The 
 text preached from was Daniel 10th Chap. 
 7th verse, "and I Daniel alone saw the 
 vision; the men that were with me saw not 
 the vision.'- The preacher went on to say 
 and point out how some see, and others pass 
 on and see not ; which I have often noticed 
 in my travels. 
 
 The Glasgow Cathedral was built in the 
 12th century. All the windows are filled 
 with beautiful stained glass. The crypt is 
 one of the finest in the world. 
 
 George's Square is well worthy of a visit. 
 There are many statues of great men to be 
 seen there. There were two equestrian 
 statues that I admired. Queen Victoria and 
 Prince Albert. The West-end Park and 
 Botanic Gardens are delightful. I could 
 have spent da^^s in the Museum, there were 
 so many interesting things to see. 
 
 One afternoon we went down the Clyde, 
 in a fine large steamer called Lord of the 
 Isles, to Greenock. We were very much 
 interested in the many beautiful places we 
 saw, especially Dumbarton Kock, where 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, spent part of her life. 
 A good deal of the Castle walls are still 
 standing. 
 
 When we landed at Greenock, we went 
 to call on Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson (friends 
 of ours ) . We found them at home, and they 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 17 
 
 gave us a hearty Scotch welcome. We did 
 not intend to stay, but they not only made 
 us stay to tea, but all night as well. They 
 took us away up on the heights, to a beauti- 
 ful place where we had a splendid view of 
 the hills, as far away as Loch Lomond. 
 The scenery was just grand. The hills were 
 covered with heather and were lovely to see. 
 
 Next morning we said goodbye to our kind 
 friends and went back to Glasgow by train. 
 We then hired a carriage and guide, and 
 visited places of interest. The City Hall 
 is magnificent, the stairways and railings 
 and pillars are Italian marble. The build- 
 ing cost three million dollars. 
 
 July 6th. We went to Ayr, in the morn- 
 ing by early train. We arrived there at 
 eleven o'clock. We went to an hotel and 
 had dinner. Then our guide brought a car- 
 riage and took us to Burn's cottage, about 
 two miles distant. The cottage is a long 
 loAv building, of two rooms, the living room 
 and kitchen. The bed was in a recess built 
 in the wall, by the chimney. The floors and 
 walls were of stone, the roof thatched with 
 straw. The table that Bobbie Burns wrote 
 his poems on is still there ; a spinning wheel 
 on which his mother spun yarn is standing 
 by. A grandfather's clock is in one corner, 
 and some very ancient blue dishes and other 
 stuff on the old dresser. At one end of the 
 house, under the same roof, is the place 
 
18 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 where they used to keep the cows. I picked 
 some flowers in the garden, and after we had 
 bought some post cards we got in our car- 
 riage and were driven to Kirl^ Alloway, 
 made famous by Burn's Tam O'Shanter. 
 The church is in ruins, the roof has fallen in. 
 
 The little cemetery is nicely kept. There 
 is an old man at the gate to show the visitors 
 around. He tells some exciting stories 
 about the church in the olden times. After 
 seeing the church and the Burns Monument, 
 we walked down by the banks of bonny 
 Doon. A beautiful arched stone bridge, 
 with stone railing, spans the Doon. I could 
 have spent hours on it looking down into the 
 clear water, and I thought of the song which 
 we all know so well, (Ye banks and braes 
 o' bonny Doon. ) It seemed so strange to be 
 really standing on that bridge over the 
 famous Doon. 
 
 While Ave stood there an old man came 
 along with a violin and played some lovely 
 Scotch airs, so sweetly that my eyes filled 
 with tears. I will never forget that bridge 
 with the splendid trees shading it, and the 
 flowers along the banks of the stream. We 
 stayed as long as we possibly could, then 
 hurried to catch the train for Glasgow. 
 
 Next morning we arose at six o'clock, and 
 had breakfast. We then went to the dock 
 and went on board the steamer Lord of the 
 Isles, and went dowTi the Clyde, past Green- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 19 
 
 ock and many other pretty towns, down to 
 Inverary Castle, the seat of the Duke of Ar- 
 gyle. We left the steamer and drove about 
 half a mile to see the castle. It is a stately 
 building in a beautiful and extensive park, 
 with magnificent trees. In the park we 
 saw a herd of shaggy Highland cattle. Their 
 horns were wonderfully large and from tip 
 to tip must have been quite a yard. After we 
 had seen all the sights, we Avent back to the 
 steamer and were landed at a place called 
 Strachur, where we went in a coach to Loch 
 Eckhead, then again by steamer through the 
 Loch, about seven miles, with the beautiful 
 mountains on each side reaching down to 
 the water, their slopes dotted with thou- 
 sands of sheep. How we did enjoy every 
 step of the way ! 
 
 Then again we landed and took a coach 
 for Dunoon. These coaches have six 
 seats, each seat holds five persons. The 
 body of these coaches are away up above the 
 Avheels. We had to climb a high ladder to 
 get into them, but by being high up we could 
 see over the high stone walls which shut in 
 the most lovely gardens of the elegant 
 houses we passed. We drove about ten 
 miles by the sea shore and through groves of 
 beautiful fancy trees and shrubs. We were 
 charmed with our drive, and were sorry 
 when it was over, but we had to take again 
 the steamer for Glasgow. As we landed, we 
 
20 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 saw a Piper, dressed in highland costume, 
 lie was playing lovely scotch airs on his 
 pipes. I am very fond of bagpipe music and 
 could have listened for hours. 
 
 July 9th. This morning we arose at six 
 o'clock, had breakfast and started for Loch 
 Lomond. We went by train to the lake, 
 then went on board of a bonny little steam- 
 er. There was quite a number of tourists on 
 board, and we met some very nice people. 
 
 The day was rather misty in the morning, 
 a scotch mist, you know, but by noon it had 
 cleared away, and Loch Lomond was just 
 as bonny as the song says it is. At noon we 
 arrived at Inversnaid. There we found 
 great coaches waiting for passengers. We 
 were driven to Stronachlacher, where we 
 took another dainty little steamer on Loch 
 Katrine, passing Ellen's Isle, the Silver 
 Strand, and other places mentioned in the 
 Lady of the Lake, Loch Katrine is not very 
 large, only about nine miles in length. The 
 pretty little boat seemed to fly over the 
 smooth water. The mists had cleared away, 
 and we enjoyed the view of the lofty mount- 
 ains on either side, with hundreds of sheep 
 feeding on their rugged sides. Afar up in 
 one of the mountains we saw a herd of red 
 deer. 
 
 I must tell what the coaches we travelled 
 by looked like. Each would hold twenty 
 people, the back seats sloped up from the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 21 
 
 front so those in the rear could see over the 
 heads of those in front. The body of the 
 coach was above the wheels and we had to 
 climb up a ladder to get in. All the luggage 
 was put underneath the floor, on another 
 floor. These coaches were drawn by four 
 great horses, fat and sleek. 
 
 The road, after we left Ellen's Isle, was 
 up fearfully steep hills. I wondered how it 
 would be possible for those horses to draw 
 so heavy a load up. It was a very hard and 
 long pull, but they seemed to think it 
 nothing unusual, and pulled beautifully. 
 Then we had to go down hills, just as steep. 
 I sat in a front seat, and I really felt dizzy. 
 I thought surely I should fall over the dash- 
 board on to the horses' backs. I was very 
 glad when we got to more level ground. We 
 drove through the pass of the Trossachs, to 
 Aberfoyle, the country made famous by Sir 
 Walter Scott. This part of our drive was 
 beautiful, the roads were very smooth but 
 had many sharp turns, and the horses would 
 rush round them at such a rate, that I 
 thought surely we will be landed among the 
 heather soon, which, by the way, was coming 
 into bloom and looked so pretty. We had a 
 merry lot of folks with us, which made the 
 drive very pleasant indeed. Tonight we are 
 at the Station Hotel Stirling. 
 
 July 11th. This morning we went through 
 the Castle ; it is on a high hill, looking over 
 
22 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 the battlements. We saw where the battle 
 of Bannockburn was fought, just about two 
 miles away. In fancy I could see the troops 
 marching amid the din of battle, and brave 
 men falling to rise no more, and I thought 
 of the anxious wives and mothers waiting 
 in far off homes for news of their dear ones. 
 There was a place on the roof of the Castle 
 where a small platform was made for Queen 
 Victoria to stand on, she being too short of 
 stature to see over the battlements. 
 
 The Castle was the birthplace of James 
 second and of James fifth, who was crowned 
 there. In the Douglas room James the sec- 
 ond assassinated William, Earl of Douglas. 
 We were shown the window where the life- 
 less body was hurled to the garden below. 
 We also saw the dungeon down under- 
 ground, where many brave men languished 
 in darkness and dampness. We saw a great 
 deal of armour, whole suits, from head to 
 foot. I wonder how men could fight with 
 such heavy weights on them. 
 
 We walked over Stirling bridge where 
 Wallace defeated the English troops. We 
 went by tramcar to the bridge of Allan. 
 Leaving the car we walked about half a mile 
 to Abbey Craig, which is 560 feet high, on 
 whose top is the Wallace Monument, a lofty 
 baronial toAver rising 220 feet high. The 
 road up the hill was very steep but was over- 
 hung with lovely shade trees, with seats 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 23 
 
 here and there by the road side, for weary 
 ones to rest on. As we sat on one of them 
 a party of ten or twelve, young men and 
 girls, came down from the Monument. They 
 sat down a short way from us, and sang the 
 old Scottish song, "Scots wha hae' wi' 
 AVallace bled." I never heard more beauti- 
 ful singing. Their voices seemed to float 
 away among the trees. They also sang 
 "Lead, kindly Light,'' which was very im- 
 pressive and made me feel very far from 
 home, and almost homesick. Then again 
 we w^ent on, it was quite a climb to get there, 
 but we were repaid for the walk. In the 
 lower part of the monument there is a very 
 nice tea room. We had tea, cake, straw- 
 berries and cream, and we quite enjoyed it. 
 
 In another room curios of many kinds 
 were for sale, we paid sixpence each to go 
 up in the tower. The stone stairway iis 
 spiral, and there were 250 steps. As Ave 
 went up we were shown three large rooms 
 one above the other : one room had a bust 
 of Wallace and other prominent heroes, the 
 armour of Wallace, the sword which he 
 fought with. It was very large and heavy, 
 five feet in length. He must have been a 
 giant to be able to use it. It is kept in a 
 glass case. 
 
 After seeing all the old relics, we went 
 down to the station, got our travelling cases, 
 and took the train for Edinburgh. While 
 
24 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 there we stayed with a friend, a Scotch lady 
 Pier house w^as on Princess street. In front 
 were the City Gardens, and Park, a lovely 
 sight of trees and flowers, charming walks 
 and restful seats. We could see Edinburgh 
 Castle from our windows, of which I shall 
 speak later. Along the street stood the 
 great Scott Monument, built of red sand 
 stone, more than two hundred feet high, 
 built in gothic style with many spires and 
 turrets, a worthy tribute to a worthy man. 
 Going into the Castle we entered by a draw- 
 bridge, crossing the old moat and passing 
 under a portcullis. In the Castle we were 
 shown the croivn room, containing the Scot- 
 tish Eegalia, Queen Mary's room, in which 
 James first of England was born, in 1566. 
 
 The old Parliament Hall, has a museum 
 and arucLorj, I was very much interested 
 in the armour. A magnificent view of the 
 city and the Firth of Forth, with Highland 
 hills in the background, is obtained from 
 the bomb battery. 
 
 I was very much interested in our 
 visit to Holyrood Palace, the former res 
 idence of the Scottish kings. Some of the 
 rooms of Mary, Queen of Scots, are still pre- 
 served and contain some of the relics of 
 that ill fated queen. In the vestibule of the 
 Audience Chamber a brass plate in the 
 floor indicates the spot where Kizzio was 
 murdered. We also saAv the secret stair- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 25 
 
 way where the assassins came up to do their 
 dark deed. I sat on a chair in Queen 
 Mary's room where she had often sat. 
 Visitors are not supposed to do so, but I 
 just wanted so much to sit there. After 
 lunch we went to see the botanical gardens, 
 and some of the large churches. 
 
 On Sunday we went to St. Giles' Cathe- 
 dral. The congregation numbered about 
 fourteen hundred. St. Griles' Church is the 
 ancient parish church of Edinburgh, dating 
 from the 12th century. It is a very gTand 
 massive stone church. 
 
 July 14th. We spent the morning writ- 
 ing letters for home. In the afternoon we 
 went to see the great bridge over the Forth. 
 The distance to the bridge was nine miles. 
 We went in a motor car, which took only a 
 few minutes. The roads were very smooth 
 and clean, and we enjoyed every mile of it. 
 
 When we arrived at the bridge, we went 
 on board a beautiful little pleasure steamer 
 and went down the river, under the great 
 bridge. Some young men on the boat 
 played Scottish airs on violins, which sound- 
 ed very nice, on the water. After a very 
 pleasant excursion we arrived back at our 
 hotel with good appetites for dinner. 
 
 July 15th. We went to Melrose, today. 
 We left Edinburgh by the ten o'clock train. 
 When we reached Melrose our guide brought 
 a carriage and drove us to Sir Walter 
 
26 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Scott's home. After we saw tlie beautiful 
 laAvns and gardens, we were shown tkrougli 
 tlie liouse, whicli indeed is a castle, built of 
 red sand stone, trimmed with granite. The 
 house still has a great deal of the original 
 furniture. In one room there were fifteen 
 chairs of ebony beautifully carved. The 
 large hall walls were covered with armour 
 of all kinds. The study has the same table 
 and chair, where Sir Walter sat while writ- 
 ing some of his famous novels. In one room 
 there is a glass case with a suit of his clothes 
 in it, and in the same room is an old oak 
 chest, elegantly carved, but nearly dropping 
 to pieces with age. It is the chest men- 
 tioned in the song of long ago, (The Mistle- 
 toe Bough) where the bride at her wedding 
 proposed a game of hide and seek. She told 
 her husband that he must be the first one to 
 find her, as she ran off to hide. She went to 
 some distant room, probably a store room, 
 and got into this chest. The cover closed 
 with a spring, and she could not get out. 
 She was not found for many years after. 
 But those who found the chest knew it was 
 the bride lying there, who was lost, by her 
 bridal dress. I had heard my mother sing 
 the song so often that I was fascinated with 
 the chest. 
 
 After seeing many wonderful things in 
 the house, we went to Dryburgh Abbey, 
 where Sir Walter Scott and his wife and son 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 27 
 
 are buried. The Abbey must have been a 
 yery large building when it was in its prime, 
 as the walls show. There are still dark 
 stairways, leading down to dreadful dun- 
 geons, and narrow steep stone steps lead- 
 ing up to high galleries. Before reaching 
 the Abbey we had to cross a small river on 
 a narrow suspension bridge, very high from 
 the water, which swayed with every step we 
 took. I was ver}^ glad when we got off it. 
 
 Groing about a mile farther, we came to 
 Melrose Abbey. A most beautiful building 
 it must have been in its day, and although 
 in ruins, it is still very imposing, with its 
 richly carved pillars and window frames. 
 The beautiful glass of the windows, except 
 a bit here and there, was destroj^ed by Crom- 
 well's soldiers at the reformation. Most of 
 the roofs are also gone. There were wind- 
 ing stairs in the corners of the main chapel 
 leading up to high cloisters. I could in 
 imagination, see the cowled monks march- 
 ing along them, chanting as they walked. 
 The floors were pretty well taken up with 
 burial slabs. One was for the great war- 
 rior, Wallace: another for Bruce; another 
 the Wizzard, and others for great men. Out- 
 side in the cemetery there were some very 
 quaint epitaphs. There was so much to see 
 that I fain would have lingered the whole 
 day, but we wanted to go to all the places 
 that we could crowd in, so we had to hurry. 
 
28 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 We drove back to Melrose station, where 
 we had tea, and then took the train back to 
 Edinburgh. Last night we went with some 
 friends to the theatre. The play was Roh 
 Roy, It was simply grand. I never en- 
 joyed a play better in my life. It was a 
 purely Scotch play, the actors were all in 
 highland costumes ; there was a very large 
 orchestra. In one act two highlanders 
 danced the sword dance to the music of the 
 bagpipes. It was splendid, and stirred up 
 every drop of Scotch blood that was in me. 
 
 The last scene in the play was Eob Eoy's 
 cave in the mountain side, opening on Loch 
 Katrine. The moon was shining on the lake, 
 and the water rippling in its rays, and a 
 boat gliding quietly by. Well, it was just 
 fine! 
 
 Rob Roy was a great tall strong looking 
 man, just what a chieftain should be, and 
 Ellen was all that could be desired as a 
 chieftain's wife. 
 
 Saturday, 18th. We went for a stroll on 
 Salisbury Craigs. I picked some pretty 
 white heather. We walked up by Holyrood 
 Palace; there were many visitors going in. 
 
 In the afternoon, we went to the Botan- 
 ical Gardens ; the band from the Castle play- 
 ed beautiful airs, alternately with a band of 
 pipes. The pipers Avore green and blue tar- 
 tan, with white gaiters, a very handsome 
 uniform. There were many hundreds of 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 29 
 
 people present. The Glasgow people had a 
 holiday, so there were a great many excur- 
 sionists to Edinburgh. We went to the 
 green market, about ten o'clock, but every- 
 thing was sold, and the sweepers were clean- 
 ing up the building. Every one seemed to 
 hurry, as all the shops vclose at one o'clock, 
 which gives every one a chance to enjoy an 
 outing. 
 
 Next day, Sunday, we went to Tron 
 church, the church where Annie Laurie was 
 married. It is a fine stone building of a 
 round shape inside. We have met some 
 very nice people in Edinburgh. They as well 
 as we are sorry to say goodbye. I wonder 
 if I shall ever again see dear old Scotland! 
 As I walked down High street, I thought 
 how often I had heard my father speak of 
 that street. He was born in Scotland, and 
 spent some years in Edinburgh. He left 
 there for Canada where he met my mother. 
 He often spoke of going back, but he never 
 did. How we children used to love to hear 
 him tell anecdotes of his young days. 
 
 England 
 
 We left Edinburgh this morning for York. 
 A lovely bright day. We had a corridor 
 compartment car, with the dearest little 
 dining room, one table seated four, and the 
 
30 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 one we liad seated just two, so we had a very 
 cosy, and a ver}^ excellent dinner. 
 
 We arrived at York about half past one. 
 We left the train and walked up the city 
 to the great cathedral. We thought that we 
 had seen some fine churches, but that one 
 put the others in the shade. There were 
 line stained glass windows in particular, 
 seventy-five feet high and twenty-seven feet 
 wide. The other windows were smaller, 
 but all of stained glass. Some of these win- 
 dows date back to the year 1200. 
 
 The length of the cathedral is 524 feet, 
 breath across the transepts 250 feet, the 
 aisles 30 feet wide ; the greatest window is 
 76 feet high, 32 feet wide ; the west window 
 is 54 feet high, 30 feet wide. There are 
 many other windows, not quite so large. 
 The glass in these windows is the most ex- 
 quisite stained glass in the world, and dates 
 from the 12th century, so we v/ere told. 
 
 There is a chime of bells, twelve in num- 
 ber. One, a very large one, cost two thou- 
 sand pounds, and weighs 17% tons. There 
 is much beautiful carving on the pillars and 
 walls, and many quaint tombs around the 
 sides of the aisles. Coming away we walked 
 for some distance on the top of the city wall. 
 It is used as a promenade. There is quite a 
 view from it. We stayed all night at Derby, 
 at a very fine hotel ; had breakfast, and left 
 for Kowsley, where we procured a carriage. 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 31 
 
 and drove about two miles to see Haddon 
 Hall, tlie home of the Yernons, of olden 
 fame. The building is very large and 
 grand, built of solid masonry. It is very 
 picturesque with its many turrets and 
 battlements. Some of the rooms are hung 
 with tapestry made hundreds of years ago, 
 but still holding their beautiful coloring. 
 
 The park and grounds are lovely, with 
 their noble looking trees. 
 
 In the afternoon we left for Warwick. 
 Next morning we went by coach to see the 
 Castle, first seeing Guy's Cliff, the country 
 seat of Lord Percy. 
 
 Warwick Castle, the ancient and stately 
 home of the Earl of Warwick, is built on a 
 commanding position overlooking the Avon. 
 The Castle, which is one of the finest and 
 most picturesque feudal residences in Eng- 
 land, is said to date from Saxon times. The 
 oldest portion now standing is the huge 
 Caesar's tower, nearl}^ one hunded and fifty 
 feet high, built soon after the Norman con- 
 quest. In the beautiful rooms and greaj: 
 hall we saw many old relics and rare oil 
 paintings of great value. The park con- 
 tains magnificent cedars and other grand 
 old trees. 
 
 After leaving Warwick, we went to Kenil- 
 worth, a distance of five miles. 
 
 Kenilworth Castle, one of the grandest 
 and most extensive Baronial ruins in Eng- 
 
32 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 land, Avas originally founded by Geoffrey de 
 Clinton, Chamberlain of Henry Ist, about 
 1120. The Castle became later royal prop- 
 erty, and in 1563, was presented by Queen 
 Elizabeth to her favorite, the Earl of Leices- 
 ter. 
 
 Leicester spent enormous sums of money, 
 in enlarging and improving the building and 
 in 1575, entertained Queen Elizabeth mth 
 her large retinue eleven days at a cost of 
 one thousands pounds a day. 
 
 From Kenilworth we went to Stratford- 
 on-Avon, where Shakespeare once lived. 
 We lirst drove to the church where he was 
 christened, married and buried. He is 
 buried in the Chancel beneath a large slab, 
 which has this strange verse on it, familiar, 
 I dare sav, to manv : — 
 
 "Good Friend, for Jesus' sake forbear 
 To dig the dust enclosed here. 
 Blest be the man that spares these stones, 
 And curst be he that moves my bones." 
 
 After seeing the quaint little church, we 
 drove to Ann Hathaway's cottage, the girl 
 whom he married. There was little to see 
 except the queer little rooms, the big fire- 
 place, the old settle by the inglenook, where 
 they two sat, as lovers. I sat down for a 
 while where the great poet had so often sat. 
 The cottage is thatched, and has stone floors. 
 There is a pretty garden, nicely kept, with 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 33 
 
 lovely flowers^ climbing roses, hoUyliocks, 
 etc. 
 
 We went to see Shakespeare's house. The 
 rooms are nearly the same as when he lived 
 in them, the old desk and chair where he 
 sat to write his plays are still there. 
 
 This morning we leave for London. I am 
 very glad for there we expect to get letters 
 from home. In London we went to the First 
 Avenue Hotel, a very fine one, on Oxford 
 street, but the noise of traffic makes me 
 dizzy. Never have I seen so many vehicles, 
 of so many kinds, at once. 
 
 The hansoms seemed to me so very odd, 
 like a covered buggy, but with only two 
 wheels, and the driver sits on behind with a 
 very long whip. The shafts curve up near the 
 top of the horse's saddle, and I used to think 
 if the backhand should break, we would soon 
 find our level on the street ; but I must say 
 they are fine easy carriages to ride in. 
 When we arrived at our hotel we found a 
 pile of letters and papers. How we did go 
 through them, and how thankful to hear 
 that they were all well at home ! 
 
 The shops in London were a delight to 
 me. Go where you will, there is none so 
 grand except in Paris. Twice I got lost in 
 Peter Eobinson's, and had to ask my way to 
 Oxford street. I had gone out alone and 
 thought that I could get back all right. 
 
34 OUR rRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 After we liad been in London for a week I 
 felt quite safe shopping. 
 
 Yesterda}'', we went to the Tower, and 
 saw the crown jewels, the great Kohinoor 
 diamond, and the beautiful coronation robes 
 of ruby velvet, with gold lace and gold 
 crowns, and much State regalia. We were 
 not allowed much time to look at them, the 
 guards kept us moving. We also saw where 
 Lady Jane Gray and Anne Boleyn and 
 others were beheaded. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral I thought very cheer- 
 less, but very very grand indeed. There are 
 many tombs of noted men and women in it. 
 
 I quite enjoyed the National Museum, 
 Avhich was a sight never to be forgotten. 
 I was particularly delighted with the stuffed 
 birds. There were some no larger than 
 humming birds, their plumage sparkled just 
 as though they were sprinkled with dia- 
 mond dust. I never saw such birds in any 
 other place. 
 
 Today we went to the Canada High Com- 
 missioner's office, and registered our names, 
 and had a talk with Lord Strathcona. He 
 gave us tickets to see the Parliament build- 
 ings, and the King's stables. 
 
 We went another day to Eegents Park. 
 It is a lovely place, parts of it laid out like 
 gardens, with the greatest amount of flowers 
 of all kinds, beautiful to see; and grand 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 35 
 
 trees, forming lovely avenues, and hundreds 
 of seats for visitors to rest on. 
 
 There were hundreds of children romping 
 on the soft green grass, having a lovely time. 
 
 We walked along through part of the park 
 and came to the zoological gardens. There 
 is so much to be seen there; the afternoon 
 was spent before we had seen half the 
 sights. There Avere all kinds of animals, 
 birds, fishes, seals, turtles. We saw some 
 horrid looking snakes; w^e were told that 
 the}^ were twenty-live feet long. They were 
 brown in color, with black spots and streaks ; 
 one had shed its skin. It must have been 
 shed that afternoon, as it was lying beside 
 the snake ; the new skin was very bright and 
 shining. 
 
 By the time we had got to the lions' cages, 
 they had been fed, and were lying do^Yll to 
 sleep. One big fellow had left a large piece 
 of meat, and was lying down with half 
 closed eyes, watching two wee little mice 
 that had come out of a hole in his cage, and 
 were having a fine time nibbling at it. At 
 last he was afraid that they might eat it all, 
 so he gave great ya^^ni, and they fled to the 
 hole. Then he dragged himself up and 
 licked the meat, but did not eat it, he was 
 so sleepj^ Out in the grounds there was a 
 large elephant, with seats on his back to 
 hold six. He was continually going up and 
 down with loads of children on his back. 
 
36 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 They rode about thirty yards, and back, for 
 a penny each. There was also a camel do- 
 ing the same thing. They looked very tired, 
 the day being very warm ; when the elephant 
 saw children eating cake he would poke 
 them with his trunk, for a piece, which made 
 them laugh, and he always got some. 
 
 One day we went to see Madam Tus- 
 saud's wax works, one of London's great 
 shows. I would not haA^e missed it for a 
 good deal. I was puzzled at first to tell 
 which were the real people. We saw King 
 Edward, Queen Alexandra, the Prince and 
 Princess of Wales, and indeed all the mem- 
 bers of the royal family. They were all 
 dressed in Court costumes, the ladies had 
 very long trains, their dresses were all rich 
 velvet, with much gold trimming and jew- 
 els. All the ancient Kings and Queens, and 
 Popes, and statesmen, for man}^ generations, 
 were to be seen there. In a small alcove, 
 hung around with velvet curtains and a 
 lamp burning on the table, sat Queen Vic- 
 toria with her pen in her hand, seemingly 
 intent on wi'iting. She looked so life-like 
 that I suddenly lowered my voice and step- 
 ped softly; for the moment I thought that 
 she was really there. In another room we 
 saw Victoria as a little girl, when she was 
 called from her bed to be told that she was 
 to be Queen of England. She looked so 
 childish and sweet, in her night dress, stand- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 37 
 
 ing beside her niotiier and the men who 
 brought the news, kneeling before her. 
 
 Down in the Chamber of horrors we saw 
 Mary, Queen of Scots as she looked when 
 she went to be beheaded. She was laieeling 
 dov\Ti to lay her head on the block, her little 
 dog standing beside her, the executioner 
 standing with his axe gripped, ready for his 
 awful deed, the Queen's ladies weeping near 
 her. It all looked so real, I was glad to 
 pass on. We saw some of the old instru- 
 ments of torture used in the olden times. 
 The stocks, where a man had his feet made 
 fast between two bars of wood, and sat on 
 the ground with his hands tied behind him. 
 People passing by would jeer at him. The 
 pillory was another dreadful thing, the head 
 was put through a hole in a frame as high as 
 a person stood, and the frame fitted tightly 
 on the back of the neck, so he could not move. 
 What a mercy that those awful things are 
 done away with ! 
 
 After seeing all the curious things, we 
 went in a tea room in the same building and 
 had some refreshments. ISText day we went 
 shopping all the morning; on our way to 
 lunch there was a heavy shower of rain : we 
 had to take shelter in a doorway and wait 
 until it was over; presently the sun shone 
 out and the sky was blue again. 
 
 After luncheon we took a car and drove to 
 Westminster Abbey. It stands quite near 
 
38 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 the Parliament buildings. Tlie Abbey was 
 founded in the seventh century, rebuilt by 
 Edward the Confessor, 1049-85, and dating 
 in the present form from the 13th century. 
 It contains many royal burial vaults and 
 splendid tombs of celebrated men. The 
 tomb of Queen Elizabeth is A^ery handsome 
 in its structure of fluted pillars. Queen 
 Mary's tomb is quite near to Elizabeth's. 
 The Poets' Corner is very interesting, one 
 wants to linger there, and gaze on the 
 marble faces of these wonderful men. 
 
 The Coronation Chair with the stone of 
 destiny under it, interested me. Kings have 
 been crooned for many centuries on that 
 stone ; there is a legend attached to it. 
 
 We went several days to see the Abbey ; it 
 is impossible to see it all in one day. One 
 day we stayed in to Church Service, in the 
 Chapel. 
 
 Quite near the abbey, Westminster Bridge 
 crosses the Thames. The Victoria Embank- 
 ment runs to the North along the left bank 
 of the river to Blackfriars, while the Albert 
 Embanlvment extends to the South, on the 
 opposite bank to Yauxhall bridge. The 
 former is embellished with Cleopatra's 
 Needle, an obelisk brought from Egypt. 
 Adjoining the Victoria Embankment are 
 some elegant buildings, hotels, cottages, 
 clubs, halls, etc. Near the North end of 
 Vauxhall Bridge, is the large Gallery of 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 39 
 
 British Art, tlie Tait Gallery. Here we saw 
 some of the most beautiful sculpture and 
 paintings, hy some of the best masters. T 
 said, "Eeally, this is indeed a treat.'' An- 
 other day we went to see the Wallace Collec- 
 tion, in a large building of many rooms, 
 some rooms covered from floor to ceiling 
 with armour : some had all manner of porce- 
 lain, others the most beautiful oil paintings, 
 by old French and Flemish masters, and I 
 did so want to go back again, but we had to 
 hurry to get in all that we ]30ssibh^ could. 
 
 Aug. 9th. Onl}^ two months since w^e left 
 home. Surely it must be a 3^ear, we have 
 been to so many places and have seen so 
 much! Yesterday we went to Hyde Park. 
 It is a beautiful place, there were thousands 
 of people walking and sitting under the love- 
 ly shade trees. 
 
 After walking for some time, we went to 
 a pretty Tea-garden, and had a nice tea. 
 There were a large number of tables under 
 the trees; the tables looked very inviting: 
 spotless cloths, bright silver, pretty dishes, 
 and obliging waiters, a large umbrella for 
 canopy ; what more could we wish for? We 
 enjoyed our very nice tea and felt quite re- 
 freshed. After w^e had rested we walked to 
 the Albert Memorial, a most beautiful mon- 
 ument, the most elaborate that I had ever 
 seen. It was erected at a cost of £120,000. 
 It is a vast structure. 
 
40 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Today we liave not done mucli, and yet, I 
 consider it the best day we have seen in 
 Jjondon. We saw by tlie papers that King 
 Edward and Queen Alexandra and their 
 daughter Victoria, Avere returning to Buck- 
 ingham palace after an absence of two 
 weeks, and by such a train they would be 
 there at one o'clock. So we went to the 
 palace gates and waited. There was no 
 traffic allowed on the street in front of the 
 gates. Soon quite a crowd gathered. The 
 guards kept space for the royal carriage, 
 and showed us a good place to stand. Soon 
 they came along, in an open carriage. We 
 were quite close to them, and had a good 
 look at their Majesties. We smiled at them 
 as they drove slowly b}^, and the King raised 
 his hat and the Queen bowed to us. I felt 
 good all day after so much glory. The Queen 
 is very sweet looking and looks as young as 
 her daughter. They are leaving this week 
 for Balmoral, to spend a month. 
 
 We went to Covent Garden Hotel, had 
 lunch, then took a stroll through the fruit 
 market, near by. I never saw so much fruit 
 at once in my life, just immense quantities. 
 
 IS'ext morning we went to Shepherd's 
 Bush, to the International Exhibition. I 
 think it is an annual affair, lasting from 
 May until October. The grounds were laid 
 out like a beautiful city, with elegant streets 
 and sidewalks, and shade trees; the build- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 41 
 
 ings were lofty and looked like they were 
 made of white stone, with mouldings of 
 elegant design, many of them outlined with 
 electric lamps, which gave them a splendid 
 appearance at night. There was a water 
 course around the centre of the Fair 
 grounds, with many handsome bridges span- 
 ning it, nice flights of stone steps reaching 
 down to the water, where pretty motor 
 boats, with velvet cushions and soft carpets, 
 waited to take visitors around the pretty 
 water way. There was an Irish village of 
 pretty white cottages with thatched roofs, 
 and fires of peat. 
 
 In some of the cottages, women were 
 making lace, some weaving linen, and other 
 fabrics. There was a real village green 
 where the boys and girls, dressed in green 
 and white, danced. There was also a High- 
 land village. We went into some of the cot- 
 tages to see them weaving cloth, and shawls, 
 of which we bought some. There was a 
 raised platform, with seats around it, in the 
 open, where we saw two men and two 
 women dancing a Scottish reel. They were 
 in Highland costume, and a piper played for 
 them. They wore a great man}^ medals for 
 they were beautiful dancers and had taken 
 many prizes. We shook hands with them, 
 and talked with them after their dancing 
 and thought them very nice people. 
 
 I went for a ride in a rickshaw, pulled by 
 
42 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 a Coolie. He ran as fast as a horse. I 
 paid Mm sixpence for the run, which was 
 about two hundred yards. 
 
 The tea gardens Avere very nice, and well 
 patronized. In one of the buildings, we 
 were shown a cold storage section with all 
 kinds of meat from Australia, looking just 
 as fresh as if it had been dressed the day be- 
 fore. We saw some pieces of beautiful 
 amber of very large size, which also came 
 from Australia. 
 
 Today we went to Oxford, we saw the 
 great University buildings, and some fine 
 churches; had a stroll through Addison's 
 walk. We saw the Martyrs' Memorial, 
 erected in 1841, to the memory of Cranmer, 
 Latimer, and Eidley, who were burned at 
 the stake in front of Balliol College, in 1555. 
 The monument is in the richest gothic style, 
 and is adorned with statues of the three 
 martyrs. After going through some of the 
 College Art Galleries and Museums, we 
 went back to London. 
 
 ^JsText day w^e went to see Bow Bells 
 Church, the church whose bells called Dick 
 Whittington back when he ran away from 
 old Cicely, the cook, who used to beat him. 
 Dick was a poor boy who lived as an errand 
 boy in a gentleman's house. He slept in a 
 garret and the rats used to run oA^er him in 
 bed. Lady Alice, the gentleman's daughter, 
 gave him a penny one day and he bought a 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 43 
 
 cat, whicli soon killed the rats. In after 
 years, so runs the story, Dick made a for- 
 tune and married Lad}^ Alice. I suppose 
 they lived happy ever after ; any way there 
 is a picture of Whittington and his wife 
 hanging up in the church. 
 
 We went to Hampton Court Palace today ; 
 many of the Kings and Queens lived there 
 in past ages. Some of the bedrooms had 
 elegant canopy topped bedsteads, with vel- 
 vet curtains trimmed with gold, lace and 
 fringe. The drawing rooms were hung in 
 tapestry, very beautiful; the arched ceilings 
 were beautiful indeed ; there were many por- 
 traits of Kings and Queens, and courtiers, 
 in life size, on the walls. Then the gardens 
 and lawns were wonderful. Flowers of all 
 kinds and colors, shrubs and trees. In one 
 of the vine houses we saw a grape vine, one 
 hundred and forty years old, its greatest 
 girth is forty-eight inches, the principal 
 branch 114 feet long, its average yield of 
 grapes, over seven hundred pounds. After 
 having a nice lunch we climbed into our 
 coach and started back to London, a dis- 
 tance of seventeen miles. On our way we 
 stopped at the Kew gardens and had a walk 
 through them, went in some of the glass 
 houses, and saw the lovely flowers, roses of 
 all kinds and colors. 
 
 Next day we drove in a hansom to Pad- 
 dington Station, and took the train for 
 
44 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Windsor, a distance of 26 miles. Arriving, 
 we went to see the renowned Windsor 
 Castle. We were sliown through the si ate 
 rooms by an official. 
 
 The banqueting hall is magnificent, dec- 
 orated with armour. At one end of the hall 
 there are seats for the King and Queen, 
 under a canopy top of velvet and gold lace. 
 
 The carpet on the floor weighs twenty 
 tons ; a footstep cannot be heard on it. The 
 other rooms are beautiful, hung in brocade 
 satin, each room being a different color, the 
 furniture upholstered in the same. 
 
 There are also fine life sized oil portraits 
 of the royal family, and kings and queens 
 of the olden times, on the walls. The au- 
 dience chamber was upholstered in blue and 
 gold velvet, in pattern of the Order of the 
 Garter, the walls being covered with the 
 same. 
 
 The King's throne had a high canopy top. 
 The carved woodwork of the throne was set 
 with jewels of different colors, very beauti- 
 ful. This room is where the king gives the 
 honour of knighthood, the one to receive the 
 honour kneels on one knee before the King 
 who touches him with his sword, and says, 
 ^'arise. Sir (somebody), etc." 
 
 I wanted very much to sit down on the 
 throne, but a stern looking guard kept his 
 eye on me, which made me afraid to try it. 
 There was one room in particular that fas- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 45 
 
 cinated me; it contained large glass cases, 
 filled with. Queen Victoria's jewels. How 
 rich and beautiful they were. I shall never 
 see such a sight again. I thought that I 
 Avas in Aladdin's palace. 
 
 We saw a chair on w^heels, padded in pink 
 silk, that Queen Charlotte used to be drawn 
 m, to Church, probably a room in the Castle ; 
 yes, of course, there is a Chapel in every 
 castle and palace. After viewing the love- 
 ly rooms, we went up to the top of one of 
 the towers. I was very tired going up so 
 many stone steps, but after gaining the top, 
 we had a great view. Frogmore is in the dis- 
 tance, where Queen Yictoria and Prince Al- 
 bert are buried, and other members of the 
 royal family. 
 
 Then we went to see the stables; one 
 stable had all grey horses, for the use only 
 of the royal family; another stable had all 
 bay horses, for use of visitors. I have for- 
 gotten how many horses in all, something 
 like fifty; there w^as a large paddock of 
 sand where the horses are trained and exer- 
 cised, and where the royal children learn to 
 ride. 
 
 We left Windsor by a pretty steamer and 
 had a long trip up the Thames, about 45 
 miles, passing splendid mansions ; the river 
 was not very wide, so we had a good view of 
 the houses and lovely lawns, some reaching 
 down to the water, where, beside wide stone 
 
46 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 steps, pretty pleasure boats were moored, 
 and majestic swans paddled slowly along 
 under splendid sliade trees. We saw many 
 house boats; some had the roofs covered 
 with growing flowers ; they looked very pret- 
 ty by the banks of the river, and must be nice 
 to live in, in the Summer. We had to pass 
 through a great many narroAV canal locks, 
 Avhich made the journey very interesting. 
 We saw the Henley race course where they 
 have large regattas. There is about a mile 
 where the river is A\dde and quite straight. 
 The boats on the shore are a sight to remem- 
 ber. I should sa}^ there were thousands of 
 them packed closely together, some of them, 
 I think, were very costly ones. Today we 
 paid another Adsit to Eegent Park. I must 
 mention a water lily that I saw in one of the 
 glass houses. I think it was called the 
 Eegina. The leaves measured over seven 
 feet across, and were not yet full grown, and 
 had a lip around of fully three inches deep. 
 The leaves were beautifully veined with red. 
 Today we went down the Thames, on a nice 
 steamer to a fashionable watering place, 
 called Southend-on-Sea. We landed at a 
 pier about a mile from the shore, and took 
 a tramcar to the beach. There is a high 
 bank all along the beach, and terraces above 
 it, with fine trees, shrubs and flowers, and 
 band stands, with a city back of it. There 
 were thousands of people on the sand ; chil- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 47 
 
 dren Avere having sucli a fine time. There 
 are numbers of beautiful bath houses under 
 the bank, very inviting with their white 
 tiled walls and everything so clean. There 
 were thousands of nice chairs to sit on, some 
 with covered tops; there were any number 
 of shops with fruit and all kinds of trinkets 
 for sale. 
 
 Back in London again, we received quite 
 a bunch of letters from home, which were 
 quite welcome. 
 
 Our next visit was to the King's stables. 
 A groom in livery showed us through. First 
 we saw the carriages, then the horses, 75 in 
 all. There were eight cream colored horses, 
 with long flowing tails and manes, just 
 looked like silk. These are used only on 
 State occasions ; eight great black ones ; the 
 groom said the black ones were Spanish 
 horses. 
 
 Then we saw the harness, which was 
 covered with gold, wonderful to see, the 
 bridles looked like bonnets. 
 
 It takes three men to harness one horse, 
 the harness is so heavy. The State coaches 
 were worth seeing. The coachman's seat 
 was a mass of gold and scarlet cloth, the 
 body of the coaches were lacquered with 
 gold, the royal coat of arms on the door. 
 Under the coachmen's feet on the front of 
 the coach, were two figures in gold, men 
 blowing horns (Heralds) and two more just 
 
48 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 behind the postillions. This coach is used 
 only on State occasions snch as the opening* 
 of Parliament. It is drawn by the eight 
 cream colored horses. One is not supposed 
 to tip the grooms that show one through the 
 stables, but they don't look the other way 
 when you put your hand in your pocket. 
 
 France 
 
 Aug. 27th. Left London for Folkstone, 
 where we arrived about four o'clock P. M., 
 taking a steamer for Boulogne. The Eng- 
 lish Channel was smooth and we glided 
 along very calmly; it was quite different 
 when we were coming back. After getting 
 through the Customs house, we went by 
 train to Paris, which took about four hours ; 
 we had dinner in the train, which we en- 
 joyed. 
 
 In Paris we went to the Hotel D'Orsay, a 
 very large stylish hotel, the waiters in dress 
 suits and white gloves. The fare was most 
 excellent, with lots of fruit: strawberries, 
 grapes, peaches, etc. Ever}^ table had wine 
 on it, more wine than water. The wine, I 
 think, must be very weak, for I saw women 
 drink a great deal of it, and not seem any 
 the w^orse. Being a white ribboner myself 
 I didn't taste it. 
 
 One day we visited Notre Dame Church, 
 the finest in Paris. Its length is 390 feet, 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 49 
 
 144 feet wide at the transepts and 102 feet 
 from the floor to the vaulting of the roof, 
 and is supported by 297 pillars, has 113 win- 
 dows, and has two towers 205 feet high. One 
 of the bells weighs 16 tons, the clapper half 
 a ton. There is beautiful and costly stat- 
 uary to be seen in Notre Dame. One of the 
 relics to be seen there is the crown of thorns 
 brought from the Church of St. Sophia in 
 Constantinople, bought by Louis 9th from 
 Baudouin II, for the sum of 50,000 livres. 
 We happened to be in the Church when a 
 ceremony was taking place ; there were six 
 priests, dressed in their priestly robes, 
 chanting before the high altar, the great 
 organ playing; it was very solemn and 
 grand. 
 
 Napoleon's tomb is one of the sights of 
 Paris; it looks like a temple from the out- 
 side. You see, on entering, directly oppo- 
 site the door, a magnificent altar, with high 
 canopy composed of marble, bronze and 
 gold. The floor is of mosaic, in beautiful 
 designs. Between the entrance and the 
 altar is a marble cr^^^pt, about sixty feet in 
 diameter, a marble rail runs around the 
 open crypt. In a circular vault in the 
 centre, stands the large porphyry tomb, very 
 costly, in which the great Napoleon rests. 
 
 Just back of the rail stands his monu- 
 ment of mottled marble; the canopy is of 
 lacquered gold, and is supported by four 
 
50 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 spiral pillars. There is a window on either 
 side of stained glass, which reflects the sun 
 on the marble, giving a most beautiful 
 eifect. Just behind this building is a hos- 
 pital for the sick poor. In the large court- 
 yard, King Louis XYI and Marie Antoinette 
 and about three thousand others were guil- 
 lotined, Charlotte Corday among them, vic- 
 tims of the revolution of 1793. 
 
 Went to the city of Versailles today, 
 some fourteen miles from Paris. We enter- 
 ed an immense courtyard, called the Cour 
 d'Honneur, adorned on each side with rows 
 of statues and one in the centre, represent- 
 ing Louis XIII. The Palace of Versailles 
 was commenced in 1664, by Louis XIII, but 
 actually built and finished b}^ Louis XVI, 
 said to have cost ten million pounds ster- 
 ling. The Palace has accomodation for 
 four thousand people. 
 
 In the art galleries, of which there are 
 175, there are 5,000 pictures, also busts, stat- 
 uary, and some of the finest oil paintings in 
 the world are to be seen here. 
 
 Two pictures by Horace Vernet, The 
 Battle of Solferino, 30 feet long and 20 wide. 
 The forcible seizure of the camp and harem 
 of Abd-el-Kader, 70 feet by 18. These two 
 alone would take hours to see by lovers of 
 art. 
 
 The ceilings of these beautiful galleries 
 are painted in gorgeous coloring, and rep- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 51 
 
 resent scenes in the lives of tlie Kings of 
 France. The galerie des glaces is 240 feet 
 long, 33 wide and 42 high, hung with 17 large 
 mirrors and lighted by 17 windows ; looking 
 in the mirrors you could see the beautiful 
 lawns reflected in them. The gardens and 
 terraces around the palace were a veritable 
 fairy land, the fountains, of which there are 
 very many, had been shut off on account of 
 scarcity of water, had been let play that aft- 
 ernoon, and I never saw^ a prettier sight. 
 They looked like so many gigantic white, 
 ostrich plumes, one could spend a week in 
 the lovely grounds and not tire of the shady 
 avenues, broad marble stairways, statuary, 
 fish ponds, flowers and shrubs. We were 
 shown through Napoleon's coach house, and 
 saw the golden coaches that he rode in to 
 his coronation and marriages, the harness 
 covered with gold. Some of the sleighs 
 were odd looking, being lined with fur. 
 
 Another excursion we enjo^^ed very much, 
 w^as down the river Seine, about ten miles 
 from Paris, to St. Cloud, a quaint old town. 
 Many of the residences had high stone walls 
 around them and massive iron gates. Peep- 
 ing through some of the gates w^e saw lovely 
 gardens, beautiful walks and fountains, and 
 bright floAvers. We went to the public park, 
 which excelled all that we had yet seen for 
 beauty, the lovely shady avenues, the long 
 stretches of flower beds, the fish ponds full 
 
52 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 of red and striped fishes, tlie fountains and 
 lawns, were a sight never to be forgotten. 
 After spending all the time that we possibly 
 could, we went back in one of the pretty 
 steamers to Paris in time for seven o'clock 
 dinner. 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Sept. 1st. We left Paris for Brussels, 
 arriving by train in five hours, putting up 
 at the Hotel Europe, a very fine hotel. We 
 had a beautiful room, with elegant furni- 
 ture ; the dining room looked very fine, with 
 its snowy tables, and shining silver, and 
 glass, palms and fiowers. 
 
 Next morning we drove around the city 
 to see the fine buildings. Going into Notre 
 Dame Church, we happened to find a mar- 
 riage taking place, the groom was a rich 
 banker, the bride a baroness. She looked 
 lovely, dressed in white satin with very long 
 train, a veil that reached to her feet, a maid 
 walked behind her to keep her dress train 
 straight, as they passed down the aisle after 
 the ceremony. I was standing quite near 
 her and as she passed me I smiled and she 
 smiled and bowed to me which I thought 
 very gracious of her. 
 
 We went by train a few miles out of Brus- 
 sels, to where the battle of Waterloo was 
 fought, where Napoleon was defeated. 
 It is a very large plain, now used as wheat 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 53 
 
 and vegetable fields. There are a number 
 of monuments raised to the memory of 
 brave men who fell in that dreadful battle, 
 when 72,000 men were slain. In one 
 of the farm yards we saw an old well, where 
 after the battle when the dead were gather- 
 ed up, three hundred and sixteen bodies 
 Avere put into it, some thousands more were 
 buried near the well. One monument is 
 called the Lion Mound, 226 steps to the sum- 
 mit, on which is a huge bronze lion. This 
 mound was four years in building. Leaving 
 Brussels, we went to Antwerp, about two 
 hours by train. After luncheon, we drove 
 around the city, bought some trinkets, and 
 took the train for Holland. We did not 
 stop at Eotterdam on account of the black 
 plague, which was raging there, so we kept 
 on through lovely scenerj^, water ways, and 
 windmills. We saw herds of splendid Hoi 
 stein cattle feeding in green fields. We ar- 
 rived at the Hague about five o'clock P. Mc, 
 and put up at the Hotel Bellevue, old fash- 
 ioned in some respects perhaps, but with a 
 good table. We had a fine room with ele- 
 gant furniture indeed. It was the best 
 room we have had yet, and we have had some 
 elegant ones. 
 
 Holland 
 
 Kext morning our guide brought a nice 
 carriage, and drove us to see a fine picture 
 
54 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 gallery, and then to the old jail, where some 
 four hundred years ago, the Spanish author- 
 ities used to torture their prisoners. We 
 were taken through the cells, and shown the 
 instruments of torture, such as the pillory, 
 stocks, gallows, the rack, the irons the}^ used 
 to burn their flesh with. 
 
 Another horrible thing was a long bench 
 Avith the end chopped very much. The per- 
 son Avas laid down on it and his head chop- 
 ped off. It was full of axe marks. One 
 dark room was Avhere a young priest died. 
 He had turned Lutheran, so they kept him 
 there for a time and tortured him. When 
 he would not give up his faith, they strang- 
 led him. He had dug a hole in his prison 
 wall about a foot deep with a spoon, but the 
 three foot wall was too much for him. We 
 saw where he had written on the wall with 
 his own blood. 
 
 In another upstairs room there was an 
 iron grating facing the place where the cook- 
 ing was done, about six feet away. In that 
 room people were put and starved to death. 
 What agony those poor creatures must have 
 suffered, to smell the food cooking and not 
 be given any ! 
 
 All the doors, floors, and stairwaj^s were 
 built of solid oak, which never seems to 
 wear out. We drove through the park, 
 which is celebrated for its beauty, and also 
 for its royal villa, "house in the woods." It 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 55 
 
 is one of the palaces of the Queen of Hol- 
 land. The Queen was away with her house- 
 hold, in the mountains, and visitors, by pay- 
 ing a small fee, could see some of the beauti- 
 ful rooms, which were so grand, that T 
 thought I must be in Aladdin's palace. 
 
 The portraits on the walls were painted 
 by Kubens. One room that I liked very 
 much had a dome shaped ceiling painted in 
 flowers and nymphs. Eight underneath the 
 dome was a table about six or eight feet 
 long about three wide, it was made of dark 
 brown porphyry, looking like glass. Look- 
 ing at the table you could see paintings in 
 the dome reflected in it, which was very 
 beautiful to see. In one room the walls were 
 hung with the most lovely silk, all hand 
 worked by Japanese ladies, the curtains 
 were quilted silk on one side and woven gold 
 on the other; one room had tables and 
 stands inlaid with pearl, the chairs were 
 covered in silk and embroidered in beautiful 
 designs by hand. There were so many love- 
 ly things to exclaim over that I nearly lost 
 my head. 
 
 In a lovely little room where Queen Wil- 
 helmina did her writing, by her desk her 
 chair was just as she left it. I asked the 
 lady who showed us round if I might sit 
 down for a moment in it, she seemed quite 
 pleased to have me do so. 
 
 Sunday we went to church in the morn- 
 
56 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 ing. The Minister was a New York man; 
 the service being in English we enjoyed it 
 very much. In the afternoon we went to 
 the seaside, by train, to a place called Sche- 
 veningen, a great bathing resort. 
 
 There is a very long beach with a splendid 
 sea-wall of stone. Below the wall on the 
 beach, there are small shops where they sell 
 trinl^ets, fruit, tea and coffee and beer. 
 There is a pier running out quite a long 
 distance, with a large building on it for 
 dancing. The pier is lighted on both sides 
 with many electric lights and is a splendid 
 sight at night. On the sands, are hundreds 
 of willow chairs, with covered tops, so the 
 sun may not shine in one's eyes, when going 
 on the beach. You pay two pence for the use 
 of a chair with the privilege of walking any- 
 where and sitting on any A^acant chair. One 
 thing I very much liked was bathers were 
 taken down to the water in a bath house 
 drawn by a horse, when they opened the 
 door and went down a couple of steps into 
 the water. I didn't see any bathers walk- 
 ing on the beach showing off their forms in 
 a w^et bathing suit. 
 
 Leaving 'S Graven Hage we went to Am- 
 sterdam: put up at the Victoria. In the 
 afternoon we went to a large museum and 
 picture gallery. We saw quaint old costumes 
 of Dutch folk for many generations back. 
 We also went to the palace where Queen 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 57 
 
 Willielmiiia lives when ske is in Amster- 
 dam. The rooms are very beautiful, all 
 hung in silk brocade. One room was hung 
 in yellow, one in blue, one in crimson ; fur- 
 niture upholstered in the same. 
 
 One, the throne room, I must particularly 
 mention. The throne Avas on a raised plat- 
 form and consisted of two chairs with gold 
 frames and gold crow^ns on the backs, a 
 large canopy top of white and garnet satin, 
 trimmed with gold lace, with long curtains 
 reaching to the floor. How grand it all 
 looked, and how I did want to sit on that 
 throne, but there was a rail around it, to 
 keep folks like me back. The stores were a 
 delight. I wanted to buy so many things, 
 but the great trouble was to carry them 
 from place to place. 
 
 We went to an island, about 17 miles from 
 ^Vmsterdam, called Markam, a fishing vil- 
 lage. All the people wore wooden shoes, 
 and the women odd looking clothes, red 
 waists, with blue sleeves or white. Their 
 skirts had, about ten inches below the belt, 
 a yoke of quite different color from the skirt, 
 either checks or striped, the skirt plain. 
 The women and girls wore white muslin or 
 lace hoods, with the sides turned back. 
 They all seemed beautifully clean, both their 
 clothes and their homes. After visiting 
 some of their homes and buying some curios 
 we went back to our pretty steamer and had 
 
58 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 luncli, then after steaming through water 
 ways and canals, we arrived hack in Am- 
 sterdam. 
 
 Leaving Amsterdam we started for 
 Cologne; after arriving there we di'ove 
 around the city, we went into the cathedral, 
 which is a very large structure, built in 
 gothic style. The double spires are 555 feet 
 high, the great bell weighs 37 tons, and is 
 cast of cannons, taken from the battlefield 
 of Waterloo. The fluted columns inside the 
 church are magnificent. 
 
 We next went to the Church of St. Ursula. 
 There was a large number of visitors going 
 in, strangers, I suppose, like ourselves. This 
 Church was built in the twelfth century, and 
 is reputed to hold the bones of 11,000 vir- 
 gins, who were on a pilgrimage to Rome, 
 with St. Ursula ; they were set upon by the 
 Huns, and all murdered. 
 
 Their bones are laid on the walls in pat- 
 terns, somewhat resembling mosaics. The 
 skull of St. Ursula, and some of her compan- 
 ions are kept in gold and glass cases, but 
 Avhether in gold or glass, the skulls all look- 
 ed alike to me, and very disgusting at that. 
 Around the room were stands with busts of 
 people on them. Inside they were full of 
 bones. I forgot to say that St. Ursula's 
 skull was in a glass and gold case with gems 
 set in it, another had a bone of her forearm 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 59 
 
 with a band of jewels across it, another had 
 a finger bone. 
 
 I wonder if those priests who show visit- 
 ors those horrid relics, believe themselves 
 what they tell them. 
 
 But it pays them well to tell extravagant 
 stories, from the fees they collect. I thought 
 it would have been much better to have 
 buried the poor bones. Another thing seems 
 rather queer : how do they get the bones 
 clean? 
 
 Germany 
 
 After bu3dng some pretty things we drove 
 to the steamer to go to Heidelberg, which 
 was a delightful trip of one hundred and 
 twenty miles up the Rhine. The Rhine in 
 some parts, from Cologne to Mayence, is 
 rather narrow, seemed to be not more than 
 a mile wide, so we were quite near the 
 shores, and had a good view of the cities on 
 each side as we passed along ; we sav/ vine- 
 yards on both sides of the river, reaching 
 away up the sides of the mountains as far as 
 the eye could reach. 
 
 The day was lovely and warm. The pas- 
 sengers sat on deck and enjoyed the beau- 
 tiful scenery. We had lunch and dinner on 
 the deck, everything served in good style. 
 We had the pleasure of meeting a gentleman 
 and his wife, also tourists, they were from 
 Bournemouth, England. We were sorry to 
 
60 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 say goodbj^e to tliem at Mayence. We land- 
 ed there, tliey went farther on. 
 
 We arrived in Mayence about 9 P. M., and 
 put up at the Hotel Holland. Next day we 
 went by train to Heidelberg. After lunch 
 we drove around the city, visited a large old 
 castle up on one of the hills. The drive was 
 very enjoyable, and the view from the hills 
 grand. In the cellar of the castle we saw a 
 wine cask, the largest in the world. It is 
 twenty four feet high, holds over a quarter 
 of a million bottles of wine. We walked up 
 some steps and sat for a while on top of the 
 huge cask. 
 
 Switzerland 
 
 Sept. 11th. We arrived in Interlaken, a 
 beautiful spot in the Alps. We went to the 
 hotel Metropole. We had an elegant room. 
 From the windows w^e could see distant 
 mountains, snow capped and glistening in 
 the sunshine, the near ones were green with 
 lovely trees; there were pretty Swiss cot- 
 tages peeping through the foliage, pretty 
 gardens with bright flowers ; a winding river 
 doAvn the valle}^ completed a beautiful pic- 
 ture. 
 
 Next morning we went to church. I must 
 say here that nearly every church we went 
 to, the Minister and others seemed to know" 
 that we were strangers, and would come to 
 shake hands with us, w^hich made us feel 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 61 
 
 tliat after all, we are brothers and sisters 
 the world over. In the afternoon we went 
 down the lake Thiin in a nice steamer to a 
 place called the gorge of the Aar river. The 
 gorge is a cleft in the mountains. I don't 
 know how far the cleft extends, we walked 
 more than a mile, and returned. The chasm 
 in some places, is perhaps twenty yards 
 wide, in others about two or three. A very 
 swift stream flows through it. We were 
 told that the stream was eighty feet deep; 
 the rock on both sides is very high, about 
 four hundred feet. On one side of the 
 stream, for more than a mile, there is a 
 plank walk about four feet wide, with an 
 iron rail: it winds in and out just as the 
 stream goes, and some places through short 
 tunnels; here and there seats where iveary 
 ones can rest, in dear little grottos cut in 
 the rock. Some places, in looking up 
 through the cleft, we could see a bit of blue 
 sky, it was all very wonderful. As we walk- 
 ed back to the entrance of the gorge, we 
 went into a pretty chalet, with vine covered 
 verandas, beautiful flowers, and had hot 
 coffee and cake. After buying some pretty 
 things, w^e got into our carriage, which was 
 waiting for us, and drove back to the steam- 
 er about a mile away. After leaving the 
 boat Ave had to ride a couple of miles in the 
 electric cars and about one mile in the hotel 
 bus. 
 
62 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 One morning we had breakfast quite 
 earl}^, and were di*iven to the cars that go 
 up the mountain, ( one of the Alps ) , height 
 some ten thousand feet. The train consist- 
 ed of two cars and an engine. 
 
 The engine goes behind the cars and 
 pushes them up. The track is quite narroAV 
 and the road very steep ; looking do^Ti from 
 the car window made me almost dizzy. Some 
 places the houses in the valleys looked like 
 toys, they were so far below us. But it was 
 a most delightful sight, — the valleys among 
 the different peaks, with their pretty houses 
 and green fields and lovely gardens, bright 
 with flowers. Along the sides of the road, 
 growing in the crevices of the rock, there 
 would be such pretty blue flowers, and in- 
 deed all colors; but I thought the bluebells 
 so very pretty. 
 
 After we had reached the top of the 
 mountain we had lunch at a very fine hotel. 
 After satisfying our appetites with the good 
 fare provided for us, we were shoi^ai some 
 splendid St. Bernard dogs. One dog in his 
 day had saved 150 lives : his labors are over. 
 He is stuft'ed and kept for the good that he 
 has done. If he had done such good deeds 
 in England he would have had a costly mon- 
 ument erected to his memory. 
 
 We saw some people with long staffs in 
 their hands, climbing up some of the icy 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 63 
 
 mountain sides. I tliink they were fond of 
 adventure. 
 
 Some places on the sides of tlie ice cover- 
 ed mountains tkere are wide cracks where 
 they would have to jump across, in other 
 places the snow was quite deep. 
 
 There were three tourists that same day, 
 smothered in the snow that had swirled 
 down off the higher peaks, on them; one of 
 their party, I don't know how, was saved, 
 but the other three were dead ; their bodies 
 were brought doAvn in our train to Lucerne. 
 
 We went through a tunnel in the mount- 
 ains, three miles long; it was quite dark 
 except here and there; we saw a lamp at 
 some open places in the tunnel; the cars 
 stopped to let the passengers get out to 
 look down the mountain side; at one place 
 the snow drifted around us, and we had a 
 jolly snowball fight. The snow was soft and 
 didn't feel very cold. We had a very pleas- 
 ant time, and made many friends. 
 
 Coming back, the road was all down 
 grade. When we got back the hotel bus 
 was waiting for us, and we got home for 
 seven o'clock dinner. 
 
 Next day in Lucerne we went to see the 
 cathedral of St. Leodegar, said to have been 
 built in the eighth century, and restored 
 after a fire in 1633. 
 
 The carved pulpit and pillars and altars 
 are very beautiful and costly. The organ is 
 
64 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 one of tlie best in tlie world. While we were 
 in Lucerne there was an organ recital every 
 evening, from half past six to half past 
 seven. Every one had to be on time. If a 
 minute later than half past six, there was 
 no admission, the doors were locked. One 
 of the pieces we heard played was called 
 ^'The Storm/' which was truly grand. 
 
 The cemetery near this church was very 
 odd. It is not very large and is laid off in 
 terraces, most of them under a roof with a 
 stone floor, which is all taken up with burial 
 slabs, and the sides of the terraces with 
 vaults. Another place we saw the Lion 
 of Lucerne ; it is carved on the side of a solid 
 rock, in memory of soldiers of the Swiss 
 guard who fell in battle in 1792. 
 
 Some of the stores are very fine, and were 
 a delight to me. By some of the shop doors 
 on the sidewalk, girls were sitting, making 
 lace, and embroidering handkerchiefs, etc. 
 
 One day we went with some friends and a 
 guide to a mountain called Rigi, it is about 
 six thousand feet high. We drove from our 
 hotel to the lake of Lucerne, then by steamer 
 about four miles. After landing we got in 
 a train of two cars with the engine in the 
 rear, which pushed the cars up; it was a 
 very steep road, in some places looking down 
 the sheer rock one would wonder that the 
 train did not rush back and go over, but of 
 course it was a cog road and there was not 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 65 
 
 much danger of it doing so. Here and 
 there we stopped at a station and women 
 came to the cars with baskets of beautiful 
 fruit to sell. Some one in the company al- 
 ways treated, so we had a lovely time. 
 
 We arrived at the summit of the mount- 
 ain at half past twelve, and went to a very 
 fine hotel for dinner, and a splendid dinner 
 it was, and so with good company and good 
 appetites, we spent a pleasant hour at table. 
 After dinner we went out to look down on 
 the world from the top of the mountain. 
 
 Some of these mountains have many 
 hotels, and very large ones they are. I did 
 so wish to stay there for a month. I love 
 the mountain air, it is so pure, and the 
 scenery so grand; the sunsets are magnif- 
 icent. 
 
 Near some of the hotels, women had 
 tables in the fields, (there are green fields 
 even in those high mountains) where one 
 can buy post cards, and many pretty toys 
 and walking canes, pipes, etc. 
 
 Some of the Avomen spoke English quite 
 well, others not one word; one woman took 
 us to her cottage to see her baby girl, she 
 was a little beauty, with large brown eyes 
 and curly browii hair, we all wanted to take 
 her home with us. Looking down from the 
 mountain top, we saw lovely valleys, dotted 
 over with pretty farmhouses. Here and 
 there a village, with a glimpse of beautiful 
 
66 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 blue lakes. Sometimes snow white fleecy 
 clouds would sweep do^vn, covering up the 
 valleys from our sight, then in a little while 
 they would blow away and the bright sun- 
 shine would flood the valley and the mount- 
 ain peaks, a gorgeous sight, nothing more 
 beautiful in the world. 
 
 Italy 
 
 I wanted to stay in Switzerland, but we 
 had to keep moving to get in as much as we 
 could, so one flne morning we found our- 
 selves in the train once more, on our way to 
 Milan. When we arrived there, we hired a 
 guide to show us around. We first went to 
 Milan's great cathedral. The stained glass 
 windows were splendid. There are many 
 cardinals buried beneath the slabs on the 
 floor, and high up in the vaulted roof their 
 red hats are to be seen hanging on a wire 
 which reaches the length of the church on 
 either side. 
 
 There are many fine paintings on the 
 walls and above the altars. After seeing 
 some other churches and fine buildings we 
 were taken to see a cemetery, which was 
 like a small city, with so many beautiful and 
 costly monuments, and elegant marble stat- 
 uary. Some of the tombs were like small 
 palaces, the pillars and steps and sculpture 
 must have cost enormously. The gate- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 67 
 
 way was througli a very high stone arch, and 
 the roadways inside were like velvet, the 
 flowers and shrubs were very beautiful ; one 
 thing seemed very odd to me, many of those 
 tombs had a photo of the departed ones set 
 in the marble. 
 
 There are many splendid shops in Milan. 
 
 After a few days spent in Milan we went 
 to Venice. We arrived at six o'clock in the 
 evening, very tired from our long warm ride 
 in the train. I must say though that the 
 cars were very comfortable : they were com- 
 partment, vestibule cars, which was very 
 nice, for we could walk from one compart- 
 ment to another, which made variety. The 
 scenery along the route was lovely. When 
 we arrived at the Canal in Venice, the gon- 
 dolas (cabs of Venice) were thickly gather- 
 ed along the side of the bank, and such a 
 clatter as they made, every gondolier shout- 
 ing for passengers. I was glad that we had 
 an Italian guide. All we had to do was to 
 walk down the stone stairway into the gon- 
 dola, which by the way was like an ordinary 
 cab inside, the boat itself is quite long, with 
 a high peak in the front, something like a 
 swan's neck and head; the cab part is in 
 the centre of the boat. There is a small deck 
 on each end, on the back one the gondolier 
 stands, and propels the boat along with one 
 very long oar, and steers at the same time. 
 We had to go about a mile to the hotel. 
 
68 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 wMch was a very fine one; had once in the 
 balmy days of Venice been a palace. We 
 landed by white marble steps and were wel- 
 comed by the host, and shown to beautiful 
 rooms. IS'ext day we went to see some of 
 the splendid buildings, churches, picture 
 galleries, stores, etc. The palace of the 
 Doges, or Dukes, had many beautiful paint- 
 ings and rich carvings. 
 
 Another fine building had a clock tower, 
 built in 1496. The hours are struck on a 
 huge bell, by two bronze men with heavy 
 hammers. We saw the bridge of sighs, 
 where prisoners were led across to prison, 
 and to death. 
 
 We walked over the Eialto bridge. It 
 was built in 1588, and was the only bridge 
 over the grand Canal until 1854. It is a 
 marble arch of 74 feet span, and 32 feet 
 high. There are small shops on the bridge. 
 Another beautiful part of Venice we visited 
 called Lido, a bathing resort, where thou- 
 sands go bathing in the Adriatic. The Ex- 
 celsior Palace Hotel is magnificent, the 
 gardens around delightful, the view from 
 the top of the tower is wonderful. 
 
 One day as we were walking by the grand 
 canal, a funeral came along from a church 
 near us. First there came a band of music 
 playing softly, then a group of girls dressed 
 in white with long garlands of flowers round 
 their necks, then four men dressed in white, 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 69 
 
 carrying a wMte canopy under wMch a 
 priest walked, then tlie bier, carried by four 
 men; beMnd tliem came the mourners. When 
 they came to the canal there was a gondola 
 draped in black, with others waiting for 
 them. One day we passed by Desdemona's 
 palace, spoken of by Shakespeare. I did so 
 enjoy the gondolas, they seemed to glide 
 along so quietly; some of the gondoliers, 
 belonging to private families, I suppose, 
 were dressed in velvet, with white stockings 
 and white ruffles at their wrists and down 
 the front of their short jackets, short pants 
 to the knee, and large soft felt hats. They 
 did look so nice; some had black suits, 
 others had brown or blue and so on. 
 
 After spending a few delightful days, 
 seeing the sights and visiting the beautiful 
 shops and bazaars, we said goodbye to the 
 Hotel Danieli, and started for Florence, a 
 ride in the cars of about 186 miles, over a 
 very rough road, but through a continuous 
 vineyard of grapes, peaches, olives, and 
 many other kinds of fruit. We were about 
 six hours reaching Florence. We went to a 
 hotel called the Great Briton, beside the 
 the river Arno. While there we visited 
 the great cathedral, the baptistry, and other 
 line buildings. One cla}^ we drove to the 
 villa, on a high hill where Michael Angelo 
 spent most of his life; later we saw^ where 
 he was buried. 
 
70 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 In tlie catliedral we saw some of Ms beau- 
 tiful paintings. One of tlie Art Galleries 
 especially beautiful was called tbe Portico 
 clegli Uffizi, erected by Yasari, in 1560. In 
 tlie second story of the building is tbe 
 famous Uf&zi gallery founded by tlie Medici, 
 one of tlie largest and choicest collections 
 in tlie world. The hall Ioiot^ti as the Trib- 
 une is the inner sanctuary of this temple of 
 art, (the richest room in all the world) con- 
 taining the Venus de Medici, the dancing 
 fawn, the Apollino, the Wrestlers, and other 
 marvels of ancient sculpture. 
 
 In paintings, Eaphael, Michael Angelo, 
 Titian, and other great masters, are repre- 
 sented by some of their best works. Be- 
 sides the paintings and sculptures there is 
 a rich collection of Etruscan and Italo-Gre- 
 cian vases, cabinets of coins, gems, etc. 
 
 In a church called St. Marco, we saw a 
 very wonderful painting, b}" Ghirlandajo ; it 
 was The last Supper of Christ and his dis- 
 ciples ; really the figures seemed to be alive. 
 They sat out so, on the canvas, that I found 
 myself stepping softly lest I should disturb 
 them ; it was a very large picture, taking in 
 the whole end of the room. We visited 
 many other beautiful buildings and inter- 
 esting places ; then we left for Rome, Eome 
 where I never expected to go. I thought 
 surely I must be dreaming. We left Flor- 
 ence at one o'clock P. M. We had a very 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 71 
 
 rough ride in tlie train, but through beauti- 
 ful scenery for more than a hundred miles 
 of vineyards. At the stations women and 
 boys brought fruit and wine to sell, the 
 grapes were sweet and luscious, and very 
 cheap. Every one who owns a bit of land 
 has grape vines, and mulberry trees. The 
 mulberry leaves are gathered, while tender 
 and sold to people who raise silk worms. 
 
 All my life I have wished to go to Eome, 
 and how strange it seems to be in the land 
 where St. Paul and St. Peter lived and 
 wrote many of their epistles! We put up 
 at the Hotel Metropolitan, a very fine build- 
 ing, the parlors and dining rooms were ele- 
 gant, the floors inlaid and tiled. 
 
 In Kome we had a guide for the city be- 
 sides our travelling guide. He was a gentle- 
 man in every wa}^, knew the whole history of 
 Eome, and explained everything to us, 
 which made our sightseeing very interest- 
 ing. 
 
 Our first visit was to St. Peter's Cathe- 
 dral. It stands on the site of the Circus of 
 Xero, where many Christians were mar- 
 tyred, and where St. Peter is said to have 
 been buried, after his crucifixion. The 
 church is 696 feet in length, 450 in breath 
 through the transepts, the height of the 
 nave is 150, and the interior of the dome 403 
 feet, the diameter of the dome 138 feet. 
 The pictures in the dome look like beautiful 
 
72 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 oil paintings, but are done in mosaic and 
 gold. Near the main altar in the middle of 
 the floor there is a large beautiful four- 
 pillared monument of richly colored marble, 
 with high canopy top of mosaics and gold; 
 at the base of this monument, there is a 
 crypt which forms a large circle in the floor, 
 and has a marble rail around it ; there are 
 89 lamps burning continuously around this 
 rail. There are two gates in the rail, with 
 short flights of marble steps leading down 
 to the tomb of St. Peter. His bones are in- 
 closed in a golden urn, and kept in a glass 
 and gold case, very costly. There are many 
 statues of saints throughout St. Peter's, 
 some of enormous size, but being set high up 
 in niches, they do not appear so very large. 
 
 There is one statue of St. Peter cast in 
 bronze, he is sitting on a chair mth his feet 
 on the edge of the pedestal, the toes of his 
 right foot are quite worn away by worship- 
 pers kissing them. 
 
 Our guide took us to see the ecclesiastical 
 robes, which the Cardinals and Bishops 
 wear when officiating in the church. They 
 were magnificent, cream colored satin heav- 
 ily trimmed with silver and jewels, some 
 were red, nearly covered with gold lace and 
 gems, hats covered with gold and jewels. I 
 thought how very fortunate we were to be 
 allowed to see all those beautiful things. 
 
 A priest unlocked a great many doors and 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 73 
 
 showed us the gold and silver and crystal 
 flagons and cups, used in their service. To 
 me they were a most wonderful sight, and I 
 thought it a great privilege to see so much 
 wealth. 
 
 It seemed strange also — so much wealth 
 locked up in a church and so many poor hun- 
 gry people in the streets. I have not seen 
 so many cripples and poor people in all m}^ 
 travels as I have seen in Eome. We went 
 to the Vatican one day, and were shown 
 through the Pope's library and picture gal- 
 lery. 
 
 The beautiful paintings, mostly by Mich- 
 ael Angelo, were chiefly pictures of the bible 
 ages. The marble statuary was elegant 
 and costly, probably the best in the world. 
 The palace of the Vatican has been the res- 
 idence of the Popes dating back as far as 
 1377. Its length is 1151 feet, its breadth 
 767, and it is said to contain 11,000 rooms, 
 great and small. In the picture gallery 
 were many choice paintings, among them 
 the Transfiguration y the Madonna^ by Mich- 
 ael Angelo. 
 
 The Cappella, Sistina, or Sistine Chapel, 
 built in 1473, is 133 feet long and 45 wide ; 
 the ceiling is covered with frescoes by Mich- 
 ael Angelo, the sides decorated by some of 
 the other great Florentine masters. 
 
 On the altar wall is the great fresco of 
 the Last Judgment, painted by Michael An- 
 
74 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 gelo. It took him seven years to paint it. 
 It is a wonderful picture, and one that com- 
 mands close attention. In this Chapel, the 
 Pope preaches at times. There is a raised 
 dais, with a chair, or throne, especially for 
 him. While we were in the Chapel there 
 Avere some workmen mending the inlaid tile 
 floor, and the throne was taken off the dais 
 and stood back by the wall. 
 
 I did so want to sit on that throne, so 
 watched my chance and while a number of 
 visitors were going out, I got around to it 
 and sat down for an instant. The chair 
 had a chain across it to keep people off, but 
 I pushed it aside. I just barely escaped 
 being seen by the guard. 
 
 We had some beautiful drives through 
 Kome ; one was up to the top of the Pincian 
 hill. We could see the whole city of Eome, 
 a beautiful sight. On this hill were lovely 
 gardens, and trees, shady walks, some splen- 
 did statues, one particularly fine was Gari- 
 baldi on horse back in bronze. 
 
 Another beautiful church we visited, the 
 church of San Giovanni. It is the churcli 
 of the Pope, as bishop of Kome. Here his 
 coronation takes place. Over the front en- 
 trance there is a balcony, from which, every 
 Ascension Day the Pope blesses the people. 
 The interior of the church is very beautiful 
 in religious pictures, in mosaic and rich oil 
 paintings. 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 75 
 
 In this church we saw the first throne of 
 the Popes ; it was made of marble, but being 
 broken it was put aside with other antiques. 
 By permission I sat on that throne also. 
 
 A block of polished granite inserted in 
 the wall of the church, was said to be the 
 stone whereon the soldiers cast dice, for 
 the Lord's vesture, which was without seam 
 and could not be parted. (Strange, in 
 Jerusalem we were shown another. ) I don't 
 think either one was the real one. Along 
 farther a slab of marble upheld by four pil- 
 lars was said to be the height of Christ. I 
 wonder if anyone is so foolish as to believe 
 all this nonsense. 
 
 In another church, the Scala Santa, there 
 is a flight of 28 marble steps reputed to be 
 from the house of Pilate, and trodden by 
 the feet of Jesus; the}^ were white marble, 
 covered with wood to protect them from the 
 Avear of devotees; no one is allowed to go 
 up them except on their laiees, and thou- 
 sands go up and kiss every step as they go. 
 
 We went next to see the state apartments 
 of the King and Queen of Italy. We went 
 into a spacious marble hall, then up wide 
 shallow steps about thirty in number, car- 
 peted in thick soft carpet, so there was no 
 sound when we walked. One room was full 
 of glass cases, where we saw some very cost- 
 ly treasures, gold and silver plate and jew- 
 els. We were taken through many beau- 
 
76 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 tiful rooms, some of them hung in tapestry, 
 some brocade satin, each in a different color. 
 The furniture in each room was upholstered 
 to match the walls. One room was in green, 
 another yellow, another blue. The throne 
 room was beautiful in crimson and gold. 
 The throne was on a raised dais of four 
 circular steps, covered with soft carpet. 
 Above the throne was a canopy top with a 
 gold crown and long curtains that reached 
 the floor. The curtains were crimson velvet 
 trimmed with gold lace and fringe. I was 
 one of the last ones leaving the room, the 
 guards were walking ahead. As they pass- 
 ed through a door, opening into another 
 room, I made a dash up the throne steps, 
 and sat for one brief moment on the throne 
 of the King of Italy. I finally caught up to 
 my friends, trjdng to look calm, but my 
 heart going pit-a-pat. 
 
 There is another church that I must men- 
 tion. I forgot to write down the name of it. 
 However, we were taken down beneath the 
 first fioor, where we saw several rooms, the 
 ceilings and sides of them decorated with 
 the bones of dead monks. The ceilings were 
 done in patterns, with the small bones of 
 the hands and feet, the corners of the rooms 
 with the hipbones and skulls, the long bones 
 filling in designs on the walls ; several skele- 
 tons were dressed in brown robes, standing 
 with cowls on their heads and a book in 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 77 
 
 their hands. A gruesome sight ! How much 
 better it would be to bury those poor bones, 
 but of course everyone who goes to looli at 
 them pays a fee, and so a lot of idle men 
 live off the dead. I could not help wonder- 
 ing how they cleaned all those bones before 
 they decorated the rooms. 
 
 There are many other places I would like 
 to mention Avhich we saw, the Catacombs, 
 where we went down in underground pass- 
 ages, carrying lighted candles in our hands. 
 We could see the places in the walls where 
 bodies had been laid hundreds of years ago, 
 now some are just empty spaces, others 
 sealed up. 
 
 The Colosseum, which at one time accom- 
 modated eighty seven thousand people, 
 though in ruins, is still a wonderful sight. 
 Walking around the arena, I shuddered to 
 think of the awful deeds done there, of the 
 many martyrs torn to pieces by savage 
 beasts ; but not more savage than the people 
 who gathered there. 
 
 Soon we shall have to say goodbye to 
 beautiful Eome, with its splendid palaces, 
 and lovely gardens, and fountains, and L 
 have not said all that I would like to say 
 about the Eternal City, a city founded more 
 than seven hundred years before the birth 
 of Christ. But I shall always and often 
 think of my visit there. 
 
 Monday, Sept. 27th. We arrived in 
 
78 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Naples about seven o'clock P. M. As we 
 neared the cit}^ there was a rush to the win- 
 dows of the car, to see Yesuvius, the first 
 volcano we had ever seen ; there was a cloud 
 of steam pouring out of the top ; in the dis- 
 tance it looked like a huge tree. Later I 
 stood on the edge of the crater and looked 
 down into it. 
 
 After leaving the train we drove to a hotel 
 away up the mountain side, which runs back 
 from the bay, looking down from the hotel, 
 the Parker House. We had a splendid view 
 of the city, down the slopes of the hills, the 
 houses looked so white and pretty among 
 the lovely green trees. The soft pale green 
 pepper trees with their red berries, being 
 especially pretty. The fig trees, too, with 
 their green and purple fruit were fine to see. 
 Down on the level part of the city, there are 
 beautiful shops. The streets are not ver}^ 
 wide, still they have good electric car serv- 
 ice. There is a lovely park close by the bay, 
 with beautiful trees, shrubs and flowers and 
 nice seats under the palm trees. 
 
 I loved to sit down and feast my eyes on 
 the beautiful scenery. 
 
 We hired a nice carriage several days and 
 drove around the city and to points high up 
 in the mountain side, where we had beauti- 
 ful views of the harbor, and Vesuvius in the 
 distance. There is a very fine museum in 
 Naples, where thousands of relics from the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 79 
 
 ruins of Pompeii, and beautiful statuary, 
 are to be seen. 
 
 One day we went in a pretty little steamer 
 down to the island of Capri, to see tlie blue 
 Grrotto. Tlie day was just lovely, tlie 
 water smooth and blue as indigo ; we were 
 about two hours going. On board there 
 were men selling coral beads and other jew- 
 elry. They were experts at their trade, and 
 made people buy, if it w^as only to get rid of 
 them. There was a band of musicians on 
 board, who played beautiful airs, and sang 
 Italian songs of which I l<:new not one word. 
 Still I liked their singing. When we arrived 
 near the shore where the Grotto was, the 
 steamer anchored, then a fleet of small 
 boats came alongside, to take tourists into 
 the cove. We went down a stairway on the 
 steamerside, and got in a small boat, each 
 boat took two passengers; after rowing 
 about a hundred yards our boatman told 
 us to sit down in the bottom of the boat, as 
 we had to go through a very small opening 
 in the base of the mountain. There was a 
 rope rail on the inside of the cave. The 
 boatman caught that and passed the boat 
 through for a few yards, and then we were 
 in the beautiful grotto. Inside is a space 
 about 175 feet by 100, and 41 feet high, illu- 
 minated onty by the entrance and by the 
 reflection from the bottom 60 feet below. 
 The water in the cave looks like blue flame. 
 
80 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 As we were rowed aroimcl inside, the Avater 
 dropping from the oars looked like strings 
 of pearls. It was certainly a beautiful 
 sight and one which I shall never forget. 
 After leaving the grotto we went back to 
 the steamer and went do^vn about a mile to 
 the village, where we had again to take row 
 boats to go ashore. We went up the mount- 
 ain side to a pretty hotel covered with vines, 
 where we had a very nice lunch ; we had our 
 lunch on a wide veranda which was covered 
 overhead with beautiful vines. While eat- 
 ing we could look down on the lovely blue 
 sea. While we ate, the same musicians who 
 were on the boat, put in an appearance, and 
 after playing some lovely music passed a 
 hat around for a donation and then left us 
 in peace. Late in the afternoon we again 
 went on board our steamer and after a 
 delightful trip got back to our hotel. 
 
 ^ext day we drove to the train, and after 
 two hours driving through beautiful vine- 
 yards and very steep hills, we arrived at the 
 ruins of Pompeii. A great many houses 
 have been exhumed from the ashes and 
 lava caused by the eruption of Vesuvius in 
 the year 79 A. D., which covered the whole 
 city with pumice stone and ashes to the 
 depth of from ten to fifteen feet. 
 
 Some of the buildings must have been 
 very beautiful in their day, but sad to see 
 now, only some of the walls and stairways 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 81 
 
 are standing. Places like the Forum, witli 
 wide, marble floors, and pillars beautifully 
 carved, are really wortli seeing. Many of 
 tlie streets have been cleared, they are most- 
 ly very narrow, and paved with large flat 
 stones, the sidewalks are very narrow and 
 much higher than the street. 
 
 There is quite a large museum there, 
 where we saw some beautiful glass vases, 
 and jars, and a great deal of gold and silver 
 jewelry, which had been taken from the 
 ruins. There were a number of bodies in 
 glass cases, of men and women, which look- 
 ed as if they were made of stone; we saw 
 some bread and beef in pans taken from 
 some of the ovens, which also looked like 
 stone. There was a very great deal to see, 
 and we wished that we had more time to 
 wander from street to street. 
 
 The way the ruins Avere found, we were 
 told, happened this way: IN'o one knew 
 where Pompeii had stood, for all the district 
 far and near was covered up, and after hun- 
 dreds of years some men were sinking a 
 well and dug into a house. The govern- 
 ment began to excavate and located the city. 
 
 There are hundreds of houses still to be 
 uncovered, as there seems to be a large 
 mound stretching far away. 
 
 One morning w^e had an early breakfast, 
 and started to see Vesuvius. We went by 
 train about 18 miles, then we went by bus 
 
82 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 to the cog train tliat goes up the mountain. 
 We went up about five miles in it, all the 
 wa}^ up we passed through fields of grape 
 vines loaded with purple fruit, and groves 
 of olive trees and plums, and nuts, and love- 
 ly fiowers ; soon we came to the end of vege- 
 tation, about a mile or more from the top 
 of the mountain; then we saw only black 
 lava and ashes. We came to the end 
 of the car track, where we got out and found 
 a nice hotel, and guides waiting with horses 
 and men to take visitors to the top to see 
 the crater; some of our party went up on 
 horse back, but one lady and myself were 
 carried on chairs, set on a litter and carried 
 b}^ four men on their shoulders. I was 
 perched up pretty high, and I assure you I 
 was very glad when the top was reached. 
 
 They charge 15 francs for a chair, but be- 
 fore you reach the top, they try their best to 
 get as many more from you. Italy certain- 
 ly takes first place for beggars. The path 
 up the mountain is a zigzag one with many 
 sharp turns, some places so narrow that if 
 the men had stumbled we would have been 
 throAAHi doAvn the fearfully steep side of the 
 mountain. Several times we got doAvn and 
 Avalked, the men helping us along. At a 
 bend in the path near the top, a man was 
 sitting, with some kind of drinks for sale, 
 our men immediately were so thirsty they 
 could not go another step, so after bothering 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 83 
 
 US for money and getting refreshed, we 
 finally reached the top, where we joined 
 the rest of the party who had gone before 
 us on horseback. 
 
 When we stood on the edge of the crater 
 and looked down into the great basin, about 
 a mile across, and I think almost as deep, 
 with the steam bursting out of the cracks in 
 its sides, and rising up in clouds, we could 
 hear a loud gurgling sound away down at 
 the botton of the crater, like stones washing 
 around in water. 
 
 Three years before we were there the vol- 
 cano had an eruption, ashes flew from it all 
 over I^aples, to quite a depth; on one side 
 of the mountain there is, as it were, a great 
 black river, reaching for miles, of solid lava, 
 full of ridges and waves; what a fearful 
 sight it must have been when it came flowing 
 red hot, down the mountain side, covering 
 up everything in its mad career! After 
 coming down to the hotel and having dinner, 
 we took the train for IS'aples, stopping at 
 Kesina for a while. Kesina is built over the 
 sunken city of Herculaneum, which was de- 
 stroyed at the same time Pompeii was.- 
 
 Spain and Morocco 
 
 We are leaving Naples to-morrow for 
 Gibraltar. I am not very sorry to leave 
 N^aples. The scenery is just delightful, but 
 
84 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 the people are not very nice, their main 
 object seems to be to fleece every stranger 
 they see. 
 
 Well we are off for Gibraltar and our ship 
 goes along so steadily over the calm blue 
 water; oh, how lovely the Mediterranean 
 Sea looks in the sunshine, blue as indigo! 
 
 We have met some very nice people on 
 board, some are bound for the United 
 States; all seem to have had a good time, 
 but are glad to be going home. I wish that 
 we were going home too. The folks that we 
 have travelled with, will leave us at Gibral- 
 tar, or rather we leave them, they go on but 
 we will stay here a while, and go over to 
 Spain and Morocco. 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 3rd. A lovely day, too 
 warm for wraps; after breakfast we went 
 on deck for a stroll, at ten thirty we went to 
 divine service, in the dining saloon, con- 
 ducted by a Methodist clergyman. The ser- 
 mon was simple and heart reaching. We all 
 felt better after it. It seemed more im- 
 pressive, being on the ocean, with no land in 
 sight. 
 
 Towards evening as my husband was 
 writing at one of the tables in the saloon, 
 he saw smoke coming through the casing by 
 his side ; he called the steward, and after a 
 while the}' had to pull down some of the 
 wall and ceiling and found quite a fire, 
 caused by a faulty electric wire; they 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 85 
 
 had quite a time getting it put out. If every 
 one had been in bed there would likely have 
 been a serious fire. In the evening we 
 walked the deck for a while, then sat in our 
 deck chairs and talked with friends, and 
 went afterwards to look over the rail of the 
 emigrants' deck, at the Italians dancing. 
 There were seven hundred men, women and 
 children, going to New York ; they all seem- 
 ed happy. The evening was lovely when the 
 bright moon rose over the sea. 
 
 Monday morning. Bright sunshine, balmy 
 air, good in everything; we land at Gibral- 
 tar this afternoon; we have made a change 
 in our plans, we have decided to go with a 
 friend to Palestine. 
 
 It seems a very long trip, but we will get 
 home just as soon as we had planned at first. 
 I expect we shall enjoy seeing the lands of 
 our dear Bible. 
 
 How strange it seems to me to be really 
 going to Jerusalem — something I never 
 thought possible I 
 
 We landed at Gibraltar about two o'clock 
 P. M., and put up at the Hotel Bristol, the 
 best one in the town, very plain but with a 
 good table ; we went with some friends for a 
 drive around the town, which did not take 
 very long to do, as there are few streets to 
 drive on. Nevertheless, they have a fine 
 public garden with lovely trees, palms and 
 flowers. It is very warm at Gibraltar and 
 
86 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 they grow some oranges, bananas and other 
 fruit. 
 
 The great fortress is a wonderful sight. 
 The lofty rock is full of holes for cannon to 
 shoot through. We had a permit to go 
 through the citadel, being British subjects. 
 
 This morning we hired a Moorish guide, 
 to take us over to Tangier in Morocco; he 
 is a queer looking chap : he wears a little red 
 cap, with white muslin coiled around it, a 
 long loose fiowing yellow robe, with wide 
 iaiickerbockers of the same color, no stock- 
 ings, shoes without heels, his feet just stuck 
 in them. I wonder they do not drop off. 
 His skin looks like very brown paper; his 
 name is Mustapha. 
 
 We are going over in a pretty pleasure 
 steamer, across the straits of Gibraltar; 
 the water is like glass, there was a large 
 number of passengers going over. I think 
 we were only about three hours or so going 
 over, arriving in the harbor of Tangier. 
 The anchor was dropped about a mile from 
 shore, and we were landed on shore by row- 
 boats. The city looked very pretty from the 
 steamer. The harbor is surrounded by high 
 hills ; the city has a high wall around it, the 
 wall and all the buildings seemed to be built 
 of white stone and from the harbor make a 
 beautiful sight, with the green of beautiful 
 trees and vines, intermingled. But inside 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 87 
 
 the city is the most filthy place I have ever 
 been in, except Tiberias. 
 
 We stayed at the Continental Hotel for 
 a few days, while we explored the city and 
 part of the surrounding country. The streets 
 of Tangier are only about twelve feet wide 
 and paved with small stones of all shapes 
 and are difficult to walk on. There are no 
 carriages of any kind in the cit}^, not even a 
 wheelbarrow; all burdens are carried on 
 the backs of mules and donkeys. The streets 
 are most filthy, the smell and flies are really 
 sickening. 
 
 The men look so queer, and 3^et ver}^ nice, 
 in their long flowing robes; their dress is 
 somewhat after this fashion: yellow slip- 
 pers without heels, no stockings, or some 
 will have white stockings, or yellow; very 
 wide trousers gathered at the knee, a brown 
 jacket trimmed with black braid, a wide 
 scarf of red around the waist; over all, a 
 long white or yellow robe with wide sleeves, 
 and a very large hood on the robe; on the 
 head a red fez cap with white muslin coiled 
 around it. The women were enveloped in 
 what seemed to be a large white shawl, with 
 one corner coming over the face: they go 
 gliding quietly along speaking to no one, 
 like so many ghosts. 
 
 One morning we went to see the shops; 
 they were very small, some of them have no 
 entrance, just a large open window, with a 
 
88 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 counter across it, the man selling goods sits 
 cross legged on it, people bu3dng standing 
 outside. The market was very odd, a large 
 square with many narrow streets running 
 into it, some of the streets or lanes were 
 roofed over, which kept off the glare of the 
 hot sun. There was meat in some of the 
 stalls in all conditions, some pretty well 
 cooked, with the sun, and some so tainted 
 and covered with flies, that I had to put my 
 handkerchief over my nose ; but there were 
 people buying it, who seemed to think it just 
 right. I Avondered if I could ever eat meat 
 again. There were heaps of fresh fish (at 
 least the}' probably were fresh once) lying 
 on the dirty stone pavement, covered with 
 flies. I stepped quickly past them; there 
 were long lines of stalls with great heaps of 
 beautiful sweet grapes, and other fruits, 
 great heaps of onions, and other vegetables. 
 Some of the women sitting in the sunshine 
 selling stuff had hats as large as umbrellas. 
 I stopped to admire some of them and the 
 women, though they could not speak Eng- 
 lish, yet seemed to know why I noticed their 
 hats and were quite pleased that I did so. 
 One night our guide, Mustapha, who came 
 from Gibraltar, procured another of the 
 city, and took us to see a gambling den. We 
 were taken through dark streets with just 
 a lantern to give us light : the streets were 
 ver}^ dirty, but we plodded along, following 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 89 
 
 our leaders, till we came to a dark building ; 
 they opened a door and took us up a dark 
 and dirty stairway, into a room where we 
 saw a great many pairs of slippers by the 
 door : the men going in to play remove their 
 soiled slippers and put on others, perhaps 
 not so soiled. The room we entered had a 
 very nice square of carpet on the floor, and 
 the men playing cards sat on the carpet, 
 with little heaps of money by them; they 
 were very quiet, and didn't seem to mind us 
 looking at them. They had some ^ve or 
 six musicians, sitting back of them by the 
 wall, playing on the oddest looking violins, 
 and flutes. But their music sounded very 
 nice. The men held the violins by the shank 
 with the large part on the knee; they sang 
 some songs, but not being educated in 
 Arabic we did not understand the words. 
 
 While we sat there a waiter brought in 
 some black coffee. I managed to drink some 
 but it was not very nice, as at that time I 
 had not learned to like such strong coffee, 
 but after travelling in the East, where we 
 often had it, I quite liked it. After sitting 
 a while and buying some trinkets from the 
 waiter we started back to the hotel, our 
 guides lighting us along with their lanterns. 
 
 One day we went away up on the hills, 
 back of the city, past the military barracks. 
 My husband and a friend with us rode on 
 horses. I had a donkey, with a boy to run 
 
90 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 alongside. He used to give the donkey's 
 tail a 3^ank to make Mm go faster. The 
 saddle I sat on was like a chair turned side- 
 ways. Tlie guide called it a side saddle. 
 Perhaps it was, but I never saw one like it 
 before. I wish I could have brought it 
 home, I would have sent it to the museum. 
 We were taken to a small village on the 
 hill, where the houses were all made of wil- 
 lows tied together, for walls and roof. It is 
 quite a true saying that one half of the 
 world doesn't know how the other half lives. 
 The people in this village make a living by 
 making pottery from the soil near them. 
 The basins and jugs that we saw were as 
 rough looking as the folks who Avere making 
 them. 
 
 The Mohammedans are having a month's 
 fasting, at this time ; they fast from sunrise 
 till sunset, then they can eat all thi'ough the 
 night if they wish to. When we were leav- 
 ing the hotel, all the waiters, errand boys, 
 bootblacks, and donke}^ drivers, and many 
 others, w^ere lined up in the lobby waiting 
 for a tip. No matter how often you tip 
 them, they must have a parting tip. This 
 tipping business has got to be a complete 
 nuisance. 
 
 While waiting on the deck of our steamer, 
 just before we left the harbor, I was inter- 
 ested in another steamer taking on board 
 a number of horses and cattle. They were 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 91 
 
 brought from the shore to the steamer in a 
 scow. Then the cattle were hoisted, two at 
 a time, by a rope tied around their horns 
 and swung from the scow up in the air, then 
 down on the steamer deck ; they were hoist- 
 ed by an engine, the horses had a broad band 
 around their bodies to hoist them by; the 
 X>oor beasts were so scared, I nearly got sick 
 looking at them, and had to go to the other 
 side of the ship so that I could not see them. 
 We came back to Gibraltar in the cool of the 
 evening, after a lovely trip over the smooth 
 blue water. 
 
 Next morning we arose quite early, about 
 four o'clock, had breakfast, and were driven 
 to the steamer that crosses from Gibraltar 
 to Algeciras, where we took a train for 
 Granada, a city in Spain, a distance of one 
 hundred and forty miles, mostl}^ through a 
 sandy country ; the only forest trees we saw 
 were corkwood trees; nearly all the trees 
 were stripped of their bark from the high 
 branches to the ground ; the great trees look- 
 ed like a flock of shorn sheep. We saw great 
 piles of cork bundled up ready to put on the 
 cars for shipment, and many cars loaded, 
 I don't know how long it takes the bark to 
 grow again on the trees; strange that the 
 trees are not killed, by taking off their bark. 
 We also saw thousands of olive trees laden 
 Avith fruit. They must pay well to raise, as 
 they seem to grow anywhere. We saw long 
 
92 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 trains of cars with loads of white beets go- 
 ing to tlie sugar mills. 
 
 After a very rough and dusty drive we 
 arrived in Granada and put up at the Wash- 
 ington Irving Hotel, a lovely place away up 
 the mountain side ; our carriage drive up the 
 mountain was lovely, b}^ a winding beautiful 
 road, under great spreading shade trees. 
 
 Next day we went to see the Alhambra, an 
 old Moorish palace, built in the eleventh 
 century. Some of the rooms and courts are 
 beautiful, built of finest marble and stucco. 
 One of the bathrooms was splendid, the 
 floors, bath, pillars and walls were of 
 mottled marble, the bath was large enough 
 for six or more to use at once. In one 
 corner of the room there was a perforated 
 place like a shallow basin in the floor, where 
 perfume was sprayed on the ladies after 
 their bath. 
 
 There was so much to see in this beauti- 
 ful marble palace, it would take a whole 
 week to go through every part of it. It had 
 its horrors, too; in bygone days many a 
 brave man Avas murdered there, and many 
 died in those dark dungeons under the build- 
 ing. 
 
 We were taken by our guide to see the 
 Cathedral, which is one of the sights of 
 Granada. It is very rich in carved wood- 
 work and beautiful altars, one in particu- 
 lar, presented by King Ferdinand and 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 93 
 
 Queen Isabella, in the lifteentli century; it 
 must liave cost a great deal ; it seemed to be 
 covered with. gold. 
 
 There are two organs in the Cathedral, 
 more than tw^o hundred years old ; they are 
 simply splendid. 
 
 We were taken to see the monastery, 
 which w^as very grand. Inside the Chapel 
 the doors were inlaid with tortoise shell and 
 pearl and fancy marble^, the fronts of the 
 altars were covered with the most beautiful 
 mottled marble that I have ever seen; it 
 was quarried from the Sierra Nevada 
 Mountains. We also saw the crypt where 
 King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of 
 Spain are buried; also Philip I and his 
 wife, who was called "Crazj^ Jane". Just 
 above the crypt the beautiful marble tombs 
 of three Kings and their Queens are to be 
 seen, carved out of the most beautiful white 
 marble, their forms beautifully molded, and 
 crowns on their heads; the pedestals sup- 
 porting them were works of rare art. I can- 
 not do justice in describing them. 
 
 One afternoon we drove high up on the 
 hills, to see some gypsies' houses ; they are 
 cut in the solid rock of the mountain; we 
 went inside one of them and found it very 
 clean and comfortable; there were four or 
 five rooms of very good size and nicely fur- 
 nished; there were a number of girls and 
 children, one dear little bov about three 
 
94 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 years old. I took him up in my arms, lie was 
 so SAveet and clean ; his father played a man- 
 dolin, and the dear little fellow danced and 
 kept time with his hands. I was delighted 
 with him and was sorry to say goodbye. 
 They all treated us with great respect, 
 especially after we gave them some money, 
 but I noticed that a policeman walked be- 
 side our carriage while we drove around to 
 see the houses. A great many women ran 
 after our carriage to sell things to us, and 
 would have been very troublesome if the 
 policeman had not been there. 
 
 Next morning, coming do^vn the mountain 
 side from the hotel, the drive was lovely and 
 cool under the great shade trees; they met 
 over our heads all the way do^^ni to the city. 
 Two English ladies came down in the bus 
 with us. They had been to Madrid and 
 Seville, and had seen a bull fight. I quite 
 envied them, for that was what we wanted 
 to see. (Afterward I saw one in Mexico 
 and I never want to see another.) 
 
 We had lunch in Granada, and after look- 
 ing through some of the fine stores and buy- 
 ing some things, we took the train for Alge- 
 ciras, where we took the steamer for Gibral- 
 tar, The steamer was crowded with ^leople 
 Avho had been picnicing in Algeciras. We 
 were dust}^ and tired with our long ride in 
 the train, and the cool sea breeze was so re- 
 freshing ; we were about two hours crossing 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE . 95 
 
 tlie straits, and were glad when we got back 
 to tlie Bristol and liad a good rest. 
 
 The people in Spain have little regard for 
 Sunday. We saw men working with mules 
 hauling loads of stuff, others ploughing in 
 the fields, on Sunday the same as any other 
 day. I am glad that I do not live in Spain. 
 I saw very few Spanish women with hats 
 on : they all seem to have beautiful hair and 
 just wear lace thrown over their heads. We 
 are getting ready today to go to Marseilles, 
 so had to hurry and get some shopping done ; 
 there are such lovely Maltese lace handker- 
 chiefs in the stores here; I have not seen 
 such nice ones anywhere else, so will treat 
 myself before I go. 
 
 We left Gribraltar yesterday by steamer 
 Mongolian for Marseilles, where we hope to 
 land tomorrow. The steamer stays there 
 twenty-four hours, which will give us time 
 to see some of the city. 
 
 We landed about nine o'clock this morn- 
 ing. After breakfast we went on shore and 
 took a tramcar into the city, where we 
 found fifteen letters and some papers from 
 friends at home. My, it was good to hear 
 from home ! 
 
 While we were doing some shopping, there 
 was a heavy shower which lasted nearly 
 half an hour, then the sun shone out and 
 the day was very fine. We went back to the 
 steamer, had lunch, then hired a carriage 
 
96 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 and had a beautiful drive around the city, 
 through lovely avenues, seeing elegant resi- 
 dences of rich people. Then we drove a few 
 miles along the sea shore, where we saw 
 pretty bathing houses, and tea gardens, 
 huge rocks, and lovely flowers, and shade 
 trees; altogether a lovely drive. We 
 went to see the Church of Notre-Dame de la 
 Garde, which stands on a very high hill, 
 where one has a fine view of the city and 
 harbor. We went up from the base of the 
 hill in a cog car, straight up about four hun- 
 dred feet. At first I thought that I would 
 get dizzy, but I did not mind after we got 
 started. There were about twenty in the 
 car. The church can be seen from nearly 
 every part of the citj. It is quite near the 
 harbor. On the steeple of the church there 
 is an image of the Virgin in bronze, gilded 
 with gold and it glitters in the sun, and can 
 be seen for many miles. 
 
 The church is large and built of gray 
 stone, very beautiful outside, but not very 
 nice inside. There are many small oil 
 paintings on the walls, and other things, 
 such as swords, little ships, etc., given by 
 people who have had special blessings, from 
 the Virgin in answer to their prayers. Aft- 
 er driving till near six o'clock we paid our 
 guide and returned to our steamer. 
 
 jt 
 
our trip to europe 97 
 
 Egypt 
 
 The montli is flitting away, and tMs morn- 
 ing we start for Port Said. A large number 
 of passengers came on board, mostly Eng- 
 lish, some are going to India, some to Pales- 
 tine and a great many to Australia. There 
 is nothing to do now but eat and sleep for 
 a week. 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 17th. A lovely day, had 
 breakfast at half past eight; eleven o'clock 
 we went to Divine Service ; the dining saloon 
 was well filled; the service was very nice, 
 and everyone joined in the singing. After 
 service there was a dress parade of the crew. 
 They were all East India men, they wore 
 Avhite pants, long white coats, white tur- 
 bans with a rose colored silk scarf wound 
 around them, the ends hanging down to 
 their shoulders; they looked just fine with 
 their dark faces and bright eyes. 
 
 There are many officers and their families 
 going to Calcutta and Bombay. The nurses 
 and children have their dinner at twelve 
 o'clock in the dining saloon. I don't know 
 where they get their other meals. 
 
 We landed at Port Said the 19th at twelve 
 o'clock, had lunch on the steamer, and left 
 on a tender for the railway depot, where we 
 arrived in about fifteen minutes. 
 
 Cook's man met us at the wharf and took 
 us to the train : we had a compartment to 
 
98 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 ourselves, so were very comfortable. The 
 journey to Cairo, the city of the Caliphs, 
 was very interesting. The first part was 
 through a sandy plain, quite close to the 
 Suez canal. We passed a large steamer in 
 the canal at a distance. It seemed to be 
 going just through the sand. After a while 
 the train left the wide canal and ran in a 
 different direction by a smaller one all the 
 way to Cairo ; some places we saw beautiful 
 water lilies, large blossoms, pink and blue, 
 and white. 
 
 We got to Cairo about six o'clock, and 
 were met by a man from Cook's who took us 
 to one of the best hotels. Shepherd's. It 
 looked like one you might read about in the 
 Arabian Mghts. It was once a palace ; it is 
 built somewhat square, in the centre there 
 is a lovely garden with palms and beautiful 
 vines, and flowers; the dining room, or part 
 of it, opened into this garden; it was more 
 like a wide veranda; it was very cool, and 
 at night very pretty, with the stars shining 
 overhead, and the air filled with the sweet 
 scent of flowers. 
 
 The waiters were dressed in long loose 
 white trousers gathered around the anlcle, 
 red shoes with pointed turned up toes, red 
 fez caps, with black tassel hanging over one 
 side, red short coats trimmed with gold 
 braid, over a white blouse, which with their 
 dark complexion, made them very interest- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 99 
 
 ing to us, wlio had never seen such people. 
 The ladies on the streets are all closely 
 veiled, but in some of the carriages I caught 
 sight through the Avindows, of elegantly at- 
 tired and beautiful women, without veils. 
 
 On the streets of Cairo, may be seen all 
 manner of Oriental costumes. I never 
 wearied looking at them. One day we visit- 
 ed the Mosque of Kait-Bey, one of the most 
 beautiful and richly decorated mosques in 
 Cairo. At the door, an attendant put slip- 
 pers over our boots, as no one is allowed to 
 walk in off the street. 
 
 The people who go in to worship wash 
 their feet in the courtyard, where a fountain 
 stands, with stone basins for their use. In- 
 side the mosque, the floors were covered 
 with thick soft carpet ; there were no seats, 
 the worshippers stand or kneel on the floor. 
 The windows were in the great dome, and 
 were of stained glass and shed a beautiful 
 soft light. The pulpit was very high from 
 the floor, the rails and sides of the stair- 
 way were inlaid with ebony and pearl, 
 very costly and rich. 
 
 The tombs of the Caliphs, or Kings, were 
 our next attraction. These were built of 
 stone and looked like small mosques, with 
 high dome-shaped roofs, mth stained glass 
 windows in the domes. The floors were car- 
 peted with soft thick carpet, the monuments 
 stand along the middle of the floor, and are 
 
100 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 about twenty feet high, and about ten feet 
 long and perhaps six feet Avide, built of 
 alabaster and gilded witli gold and colors. 
 At each end of these tombs there is a high 
 slab or pillar with the Egyptian cap on the 
 top of it, if it is the tomb of a king ; if it is 
 the tomb of a Queen there would be a crown. 
 The rich people of the Mohammedans have 
 their burial places roofed in, their dead are 
 wrapped in linen when put in the grave ; they 
 use no cof&ns. The poor have a stone cover- 
 ing over their graves, somewhat like a pack- 
 ing box with a high slab at each end. Some 
 are made with a hollow post on the top to 
 hold water and flowers. The cemeteries look 
 hot, no trees nor any green thing: nothing 
 but sand. We saw a Mohammedan funeral 
 one day passing the hotel ; there were about 
 fifty men with white turbans on their heads, 
 long white gowns; they were singing some 
 low chant, then four men came carrying a 
 bier on their shoulders, with a body on it, 
 covered with a green cloth, (their sacred 
 color. ) Behind the bier some donkeys with 
 women on their backs, covered with black 
 shawls. I suppose those were members of 
 the family ; behind those, many other people. 
 Today we went with our guide, a handsome 
 Egyptian, looking so spic and span in a 
 white linen suit with red fez cap, his name 
 was Hassan; we drove over the beautiful 
 bridge which spans the Mle, near the city; 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 101 
 
 the bridge seemed to be a very long one and 
 very wide ; there was a draw in the middle of 
 it, which was open when we happened along ; 
 there were a great many vessels passing 
 through ; it is opened for traffic, one hour in 
 the morning and one in the afternoon, so 
 Ave were told ; the bridge itself is a fine struc- 
 ture; at each end there are pedestals sup- 
 porting huge stone lions, one on either side. 
 
 Our drive to the Pyramids was ten or 
 twelve miles along a lovely shady road with 
 trees meeting overhead all the way. The road 
 was quite level all the way, that far, then 
 we came near the hills, where some of the 
 Pyramids stand; at the base of the hills we 
 left the carriage and were provided with 
 camels to ride up to the Pyramids, a dis- 
 tance of about a mile. The road was quite 
 steep from where the carriage stopped, and 
 the day was too hot for us to walk, so we 
 had the novelty of riding on camels. But 
 I must say I was very glad when I got down 
 from my high horse. The camel kneels down 
 for his rider to mount ; to me it was an awful 
 sensation, when he began to get on his feet, 
 his back seemed a long way from the ground. 
 I don't think people who ride much on 
 camels, suffer from indigestion for they 
 most certainly do get a great shaking up. 
 
 Each of our camels had a driver walking 
 beside him, but there were many others, 
 boys and men, in our rear, running to beg 
 
102 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 from us when we got down; they were a 
 perfect nuisance. Arriving at the top of 
 the hill, we rode past the Pyramids, on to 
 where the Sphinx stands. It is hewn out 
 of the solid rock; it looks like an animal 
 lying down, with paws stretched in front, 
 and has a man's face. It is very ugly but 
 still, it is wonderful; it was made some 
 thousands of years B. C. After having our 
 pictures taken, sitting on our camels, we dis- 
 mounted and went down into the temple of 
 the Sphinx, a place once used to embalm the 
 dead before burial. The ancient burial 
 place around the Sphinx is long ago covered 
 up in the sand. 
 
 The sand is ever drifting when the wind 
 blows, just like our snow in storms, forming 
 banks of great height. Beginning to feel 
 tired and hungry, we had to again go 
 through the ordeal of mounting our camels. 
 We went to the Mena Hotel, and had a good 
 dinner. Then, Mr. Simmonds and a friend 
 went up to the Pyramid of Cheops. I wan- 
 dered around the lovely gardens of the hotel, 
 and looked at the beautiful shrubs and 
 flowers. Then I walked up to the P^^ramid 
 in time to see the folks coming down. Climb- 
 ing up for about five hundred feet over great 
 stones, made them very tired. The day was 
 very hot. After we had rested a while we 
 went down to our carriage and drove back 
 to Cairo. The di'ive was lovely, through the 
 
 I 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 103 
 
 long avenue of trees, and there was a nice 
 cool breeze blowing. We saw many queer 
 sights as we drove along. We saw men 
 driving flocks of goats home from the pas- 
 ture to be milked like cows ; they were queer 
 looking goats, brown in color and had long 
 flapping ears, and odd looking faces. I al- 
 ways thought that I could not drink goat^s 
 milk, but since we have been travelling, 1 
 have had to drink it. In Gibraltar they 
 drive the goats from door to door, and milk 
 as much as the people need from them ; that 
 way at least they are sure of fresh milk. 
 One morning we went for a walk in a park 
 quite near the hotel. We saw many rare 
 flowers, and such wonderful trees, sonie of 
 the trees had long fruit hanging on boughs, 
 that looked like vegetable marrow, squash ; 
 others were loaded with fruit that looked 
 like apples ; but they were hard as stones, 
 somes of the climbing vines were co veered 
 with beautiful flowers. I have never seen 
 dates in any other countr^^ to compare with 
 the Eg}^ptian dates, both in size and flavor ; 
 they were served on the table just as they 
 came off the tree, and were just ^ne. There 
 were many funny things to see from the 
 hotel veranda, such as venders of all kinds 
 of beads and stuff. One fellow came along 
 with a bag under his arm, and tipped out the 
 contents on the side walk ; what was my sur- 
 prise to see a mass of snakes, some began at 
 
104 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 once to coil themselves into a round mat 
 with their heads in the centre, and raised 
 something like a wee fan at each side of their 
 heads; they just remained perfectly quiet, 
 onl}^ kept their heads turning when the man 
 was fixing the others. He had a small alli- 
 gator around his neck, which he took off and 
 made hold some of the snakes that were try- 
 ing to slip away; of course, when he had 
 trained them for a while he came with his 
 cap for money. Another strange sight to 
 me was that of the money changers, sitting 
 on the sidewalk with tables full of money, 
 which was very handy sometimes, when one 
 wanted to change a note for small cash. 
 Mathew, the disciple, was a mone}^ changer. 
 Monday, Oct. 2Gth. We left Cairo this 
 morning for Port Said, where we arrived in 
 the afternoon and took another steamer for 
 Jaffa. The night was warm, we stayed on 
 deck till quite late. Tuesday morning we 
 got to Jaffa about eight o'clock. After we 
 had breakfast and had been looked at by 
 the health officers, we went down the lad- 
 ders on the side of the ship to a large row 
 boat manned by six rowers and one to steer. 
 Of all the harbors that I have ever seen, 
 Jaffa takes the palm. Nothing but a mass 
 of jagged rocks, which reach a mile from the 
 shore ; the boats have to be guided very skil- 
 fully through them ; in stormy weather there 
 is no chance of landing, and the steamer has 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 105 
 
 to lie off some time, we were told, for two 
 weeks; so we were very fortunate to have 
 a fine day for landing. It is rather odd that 
 a port where steamers have been going for 
 thousands of years, should have no wharves 
 or at least a channel cut to allow vessels to 
 get nearer the city; all merchandise and 
 passengers have to be transferred to small 
 boats to be landed. 
 
 After landing we went to the hotel Jeru- 
 salem, small but clean, and good fare. I 
 noticed that the bedroom doors instead of 
 being numbered had the names of the patri- 
 archs on them. After resting and seeing 
 about our trip, we hired a neAv guide. He 
 brought a carriage and drove us around the 
 city: a dirty place it was, with streets so 
 narrow that it w^as with difficulty we could 
 pass another team. We drove outside the 
 city through beautiful orange and date 
 groves, to the place where Peter brought 
 Dorcas to life. We also saw her tomb, a 
 very handsome one; afterwards we went 
 to the house of Simon, the tanner, where St. 
 Peter had his wonderful vision of the sheet 
 let down from heaven (the 10th chapt.. Acts 
 of the Apostles, 9th verse) . 
 
 We went up a stone stairway on the side 
 of the house to a flat roof. Nearly all the 
 houses have flat roofs, with a wall about 
 three feet higher than the roof, which gives 
 a little shade sometime in the day. As I 
 
106 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 stood there, I wondered whicli corner St. 
 Peter occupied, while waiting for the people 
 down stairs to prepare something for him 
 to eat. After dreaming a while, I picked 
 some hyssop off the wall and went down to 
 the yard. We had a drink of ice cold water, 
 drawn from a very deep well, in a goat skin 
 bag. We also saw in the yard a large stone 
 trough, said to be the one Simon used for 
 tanning his skins. It looked ancient enough 
 to be the very one. 
 
 Driving through the market, we saw 
 heaps of grapes, dates, tomatoes, and other 
 kinds of fruit we had never seen before. The 
 Jaffa oranges are said to be the best in the 
 world; they have a very green rind, and I 
 thought they were unripe, but when they 
 were cut we found them seedless, and so 
 juicy and the flavor surpassed any that 1 
 ever tasted. 
 
 Most of the traffic is carried on with 
 donkeys and mules, and camels, as the 
 streets are too narrow for vehicles. The 
 women nearly all were closely veiled. I 
 wonder how they can wear thick veils in 
 such a warm city. 
 
 We went from Jaffa to Jerusalem by 
 train, a distance of fifty-three miles. For 
 half an hour or so, the route was through 
 orange, lemon, pomegranate, and other 
 fruit gardens; emerging from the gardens 
 we came into the plain of Sharon. It ex- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 107 
 
 tends from Jaffa to Carmel, and tlie Medi- 
 terranean. It was celebrated for its fertil- 
 ity and being suitable as pasture; beautiful 
 flowers grow everywhere. 
 
 It is interesting to remember tbat this 
 has been the great thoroughfare to Jeru- 
 salem in all ages; some of the cedar wood 
 and other material for the temple were car- 
 ried along this road. Prophets and apostles 
 have passed across this flowery plain. We 
 saw many places as we passed along, that 
 are mentioned in the Bible, as Lydda, Kam- 
 leh, Hazor, etc. Just at sunset we came in 
 sight of Jerusalem; in a few more minutes 
 we were at the station, amid the clamor of 
 men wanting to carry our baggage; our 
 guide had a carriage ready for us and in a 
 few minutes we were off to the hotel, inside 
 the walls. The hotel was just inside the 
 Jaffa gate ; the street there is wide enough 
 for carriages, all the other streets are very 
 narrow, and some are terraced. We were 
 met at the door of the hotel by smiling 
 waiters and shown to our rooms. The 
 hotel stands on Zion hill, with the tower of 
 David just across the street; from the bal- 
 cony outside our window, we could see the 
 Mount of Olives, the Temple site, and from 
 the roof we could see the whole city ; it is a 
 large city, and is surrounded by high hills, 
 ^*As the hills stand round about Jerusalem 
 
108 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 even so standeth tlie Lord round about Ms 
 people." Psalm 125. 
 
 It seemed strange to wake up next morn- 
 ing and find ourselves in Jerusalem. After 
 breakfast we were taken to see Calvary, the 
 place where the Lord was crucified. The 
 place is now covered by a large church, (if 
 it is the very place, which is doubtful. ) 
 
 However, first we entered a large paved 
 courtyard, thence into a place of four chap- 
 els, one for the Greeks, one for the Latins, 
 one for the Armenians, and one for the 
 Copts. As we entered the Church of the 
 Holy Sepulchre, we first saw the Unction 
 Stone, a long table of marble, where the 
 Lord' s body was prepared for burial. Fur- 
 ther along was the tomb, with an altar built 
 over it, and enclosed by high walls with 
 roof, and curtained door; lamps burn con- 
 tinually on the altar, and people are going 
 in to pray all the time. Beside the door is 
 part of the stone the Angels rolled away 
 from the Lord's grave. It is set in a block 
 of marble to keep people from breaking 
 pieces off it. I might say we were shown 
 the whole stone in the house of Caiaphas aft- 
 erwards. We were also shown the true one 
 in a cathedral in Eome. 
 
 We were shown also where the three 
 crosses were set up, the stone on which the 
 Lord sat, when he was set at naught and 
 mocked; also the place where Mary and 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 109 
 
 JoTin stood, wlieii Jesus said : "Woman, be- 
 hold thy son ; son, behold thy Mother." 
 
 We drove over to Bethlehem, which is 
 about six miles from Jerusalem. On our 
 way we saw the well where the Magi stop- 
 ped to rest on their way to Bethlehem. Far- 
 ther along we got out of the carriage, to see 
 the tomb of Eachel. She was the favorite 
 wife of Jacob. She died by the road side, 
 on their journey from Bethel to Bethlehem. 
 There is a small domed shrine built over her 
 grave. 
 
 Arriving at Bethlehem, we were taken 
 into the church built over the manger. We 
 were very fortunate in our time of visiting. 
 The Latins were holding a service and we 
 were permitted to be present. There were 
 ten monks with broT\Ti garments, hoods over 
 their heads, cord and tassel around their 
 waists ; three priests in red cloaks with wide 
 white lace trimmings, two altar boys, also 
 dressed in red, each one carried a book and 
 a lighted candle, and chanted the service 
 from the chapel down a flight of stone steps 
 to the manger, where they all fell on their 
 knees and chanted their prayers, one priest 
 swung the incense lamp around and filled 
 the place with smoke. It was all very solemn. 
 I was glad that we happened to be there at 
 that time. After their devotions were over 
 they all walked away in file, and we looked 
 at the manger. It is cut out of the solid 
 
110 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 rock, the trough where the cattle used to eat 
 will always be there, and the place close by 
 where the Saviour was born. To us it 
 seemed a very solemn place. 
 
 We saw a Turkish soldier with his rifle on 
 his arm; w^e asked why he was there, and 
 were told that the Greeks, Latins and Copts, 
 who all have a share in the Church of the 
 Nativity, are continually quarreling, so 
 there must be soldiers always on guard to 
 keep order. The church steps in Jerusalem 
 seem to be the place for beggars; they sit 
 there all day long with tin cups in their 
 hands, holding them out for money. 
 
 The streets of Jerusalem are very narrow 
 and paved with small stones, very tiresome 
 to walk on. There are no carriages or 
 teams on the streets, except just inside the 
 Jaffa gate, where the ISTew Grand Hotel 
 stands. Some of the streets are terraced, 
 but the little donkeys trot up and down 
 them, with their great loads on their backs, 
 just as if they were level. 
 
 In the old part of the city, the shops are 
 rather odd, they have no windows, just a 
 wide door that pushes up, and the buyer 
 stands on the doorstep. Near the hotel 
 there are a few very nice shops, where they 
 sell elegant goods of all kinds. If a stranger 
 is seen by the proprietor passing a store, he 
 will send some one at once, to ask you to 
 come in, just to see his goods. So once in, 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 111 
 
 they make you buy. Some of the streets are 
 very gloomy; as you walk along between 
 high walls, perhaps a door will open in one 
 of them, and you will get a glimpse of a 
 courtyard with a fountain and lovely palms 
 and flowers. The houses have no windows 
 low down by the street ; there are a few up 
 high. There are all kinds of Oriental cos- 
 tumes worn in Jerusalem, some of them 
 very rich looking. 
 
 One morning we arose very early, our 
 guide came with a carriage and three horses 
 to take us down to Jericho. The morning 
 was lovely and not too warm; after passing 
 out of the city a short distance, we stopped 
 and went into the Church of the Yirgiji 
 Mary; we went down a long wide flight of 
 stone steps, and were shown the tomb of 
 Joseph; do^m. more steps we came into a 
 chapel. At one side was the tomb of Mary 
 with an altar built over it ; although it was 
 very early in the morning, the chapel was 
 filled with pilgrims who had come a great 
 distance, to worship. After their prayers, 
 they had the most beautiful singing I ever 
 listened to, but being in a foreign tongue, I 
 could not understand the words. 
 
 Outside on the steps there was a row of 
 lepers, begging, some holding up theii* 
 hands, with no fingers, some with part of 
 their feet off, and all with frightfully scar- 
 red faces, and sore eyes, a most shocking 
 
112 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 sight. They beseech one in the most heart- 
 rending voices for alms. A little farther 
 on we came to the garden of Gethsemane, 
 and saw the place where Christ prayed in 
 agony, just before Judas and the rabble 
 came upon him, and the place where the dis- 
 ciples fell asleep while the Lord prayed. 
 Close by the Kedron, in the valley of Jeho- 
 shaphat, we saw Absalom's pillar ; also the 
 tombs of Zechariah, and St. James. 
 
 Going down to Jericho, some of the hills 
 were so steep that w^e had to hold fast to the 
 carriage to keep from being thrown out. 
 After a long zigzag drive, we came to the 
 Apostles' well, a spring of excellent water, 
 with a nice stone roof over it, to keep the 
 water clean. We got out of the carriage, 
 and had a drink of it. A few miles farther 
 on we stopped at the Inn of the Good Samar- 
 itan; had a drink of lemonade and bought 
 some post cards; as we drove farther along 
 we saw the cave of Elijah, where he was fed 
 by ravens, when he fled from Ahab and 
 Jezebel. 
 
 At one place we saw a shepherd with a 
 great flock of sheep ; they were drinking at a 
 pool, which was built around with stone, a 
 space of about fifty feet square. 
 
 The sheep went doT\ni a path over the 
 bank of the pool and drank, a long line of 
 them; as they finished they walked out at 
 a low place and others came in, all in the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 113 
 
 most perfect order. Another shepherd was 
 putting his sheep into their fold ; he walked 
 on, and the whole great flock followed him 
 and as close together as they could walk. 
 Some places by the roadside there would be 
 spaces cut in the overhanging rocks, for 
 Aveary folks to rest in out of the fierce rays 
 of the sun, which must be a great comfort, as 
 there are no trees in that wilderness of 
 rocks. After many sharp turns, and steep 
 hills, we arrived at Jericho, which once was 
 called the city of palm trees, now for the 
 most part only a few mounds and ruins re- 
 main of proud Jericho. There are a few 
 buildings near the ancient site of Jericho 
 and close to the spring of bitter water, which 
 Elisha healed and made sweet, were some 
 luxuriant gardens, with lovely palm trees, 
 and fruit; the name of the place is called 
 Kiha. A few houses and a small hotel make 
 up all the buildings to be seen. The hotel 
 was very clean and the people who kept it 
 very nice. 
 
 I shall never forget the beautiful moon- 
 light at Jericho, so clear, we could see al- 
 most as well as in the daytime. There were 
 some lovely trees in the courtyard of the 
 hotel, one in particular called jessamine ; the 
 leaves looked like wax, and the blossoms 
 like white stars ; thev are beautiful in the 
 moonlight. From the hotel Bellevue, we 
 drove about ten miles to the Dead Sea. The 
 
114 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 road was good, but some places sandy, 
 whicli was very tiresome for the horses, 
 (none of the best. ) They were yoked, three 
 abreast, the middle one had a hard time of 
 it, from the heat of the other two, but there 
 was no let-up from the driver. 
 
 The Dead Sea is surrounded by high 
 mountains on three sides, which seem to 
 rise from its brink. They are the mount- 
 ains of Gilead and Moab. On one side the 
 river Jordan empties its waters into the 
 Dead Sea. The Dead Sea is twenty five 
 hundred feet lower than Jerusalem. It 
 looked very pretty and solemn, too, there 
 among the high hills. Some say that Sodom 
 and Gomorrah are sunk beneath the Dead 
 Sea. The Jordan flows swiftly into the 
 sea, and the fishes that come down in the 
 waters die at once ; we saw many lying dead 
 on the shore. 
 
 As we walked along the shore the wind 
 was blowing quite a bit, which made a beau- 
 tiful surf, as it broke in white foam on the 
 shore. I dipped my hands in it, and found 
 it was soft and soapy. The water tasted 
 very salt and bitter. All the bushes near 
 the shore were covered with salt. 
 
 We next drove about two miles to the 
 Jordan, to the place where St. John bap- 
 tized the Lord Jesus. It is in a bend of the 
 river, the water was deep and clear, with 
 lovely tamarisk trees drooping over the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 115 
 
 banks. From tlie Dead Sea to Jericho is 
 one vast sandy plain with a few thorn trees 
 here and there. We saw some other visitors 
 by the river, but did not meet them again. 
 
 The day was far spent when we arrived 
 back to Jericho. After a good supper and 
 sitting out for a while under the vines and 
 flowers, we went to our room. Looking 
 dov^no. from the window we could see a great 
 number of camels in a yard nearby, resting 
 for the night. Very early in the morning 
 they were off, with their heavy loads, for 
 many long miles. It was nice to hear their 
 little bells tinkling in the night. In the 
 morning we started back to Jerusalem; 
 every step of the way was interesting. In 
 fancy I could see the walls of Jericho falling 
 to the ground as Joshua and his men sur- 
 rounded it, and the plain where the five 
 kings hid from Joshua, in a cave. (And 
 Joshua said, roll great stones upon the 
 mouth of the cave and set men by it for to 
 keep them. — Joshua 10th Chapt., 15 verse. ) 
 
 On the way we stopped at Bethany and 
 saw where Martha and Mary and Lazarus 
 had lived, part of the house is still stand- 
 ing; all the houses there are built of 
 stone, that is the reason they have lasted so 
 long. 
 
 Then we went to the tomb of Lazarus, 
 down ten or twelve steps ; saw the place cut 
 in the wall, where the body had lain. It 
 
116 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 made me feel very solemn to stand there, 
 where the Lord had stood, and I thought 
 of the joy of those sisters when their brother 
 came forth, not even sick, but quite well. 
 
 Next day we went to the place where the 
 once beautiful Temple of Solomon stood. 
 Now a Mohammedan mosque stands in its 
 place. Upon going into the mosque we had 
 to have other shoes put on over our own, as 
 no one is allowed to enter in shoes worn on 
 the street. 
 
 The interior of the mosque is somewhat 
 gloomy. It has two cloisters separated by 
 an octagonal course of piers and columns. 
 Within this again is another circle of four 
 piers and twelve Corinthian columns, which 
 support the great dome. The thirty-six 
 stained glass windows are of great beauty, 
 and date from the fifteenth century. The 
 arches are covered with glass mosaics, over 
 which are inscribed portions of the Koran. 
 The dome is ninety-eight feet high and 
 seventy-five feet in diameter. 
 
 The sacred rock is immediately beneath 
 the dome. It is a bare unhewn rock about 
 sixty feet long and forty-five feet wide, a 
 high iron grille incloses the dome of the 
 rock. It is here that Abraham offered up 
 his son Isaac, and also where the Ark of 
 the Covenant stood. We went down steps 
 into a cave below the rock where we were 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 117 
 
 shown the praying places of King David 
 and King Solomon. 
 
 Under the temple site we saw King Sol- 
 omon's stables, very vast indeed. It must 
 have been a wonderful sight, when horses 
 and chariots filled them. 
 
 We next went to the pool of Bethesda, 
 where the angel came down and troubled the 
 water, and whoever first went down was 
 healed of his sickness. 
 
 We were shown the tomb of David, which 
 was a large structure of stone, covered by 
 green satin tapestry, richly embroidered 
 with gold. Adjoining the tomb, is the 
 Chamber of the Last Supper; it is a large 
 room about fifty feet long by thirty wide, 
 with a vaulted roof. If it reall}^ is the very 
 room where our Saviour met with his dis- 
 ciples, it is indeed a holy place. The place 
 where the table stood and where the Lord 
 sat is pointed out to visitors, even if it is all 
 supposition. Still it gives one a feeling of 
 reverence to be in that room. 
 
 We went to see the Jews' wailing place, 
 by the wall of the temple, a part of the orig.- 
 inal wall of the temple; it seemed to be a 
 court about a hundred yards long and per- 
 haps ten wide, the walls on each side. 
 There the Jews assemble every Friday aft- 
 ernoon, to pray for the restoration of the 
 temple. They read portions of the Psalms, 
 then they sway their bodies back and forth 
 
118 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 and weep, and kiss tliat part of tlie wall 
 which formerly belonged to the temple. 
 They seemed so sincere in their devotions, 
 that it didn't seem right to even smile. 
 Some of the Eabbis did look rather queer, 
 the}^ wore long crimson velvet gowns, velvet 
 caps and little corkscrew curls by their ears. 
 
 Another day we went to see the tombs of 
 the Kings of Jerusalem, out of the city a few 
 miles. Arriving there we went down a very 
 wide flight of steps, thirty in all, cut in the 
 solid rock; then into a large courtyard on 
 one side of which was a row of tanks cut in 
 the rock for catching the rain water; the 
 water was used for washing and preparing 
 the dead for burial. Another court opening 
 out of the first one, had many doors open- 
 ing into passages where the tombs were. 
 
 These passages had shelves cut along the 
 sides for receiving the coffins, which are 
 placed inside and then a stone slab put in 
 front and sealed. Some of those vaults 
 would hold several bodies. 
 
 One day we drove to the Mount of Olives, 
 about two miles from the city, a very wind- 
 ing road, to make it easier of ascent. On 
 the top of the mount there is a Greek church. 
 I thinii it is called the Church of the Ascen- 
 sion. In a pretty court, set round with pil- 
 lars, we saw on the walls, the Lord's Prayer, 
 in twenty-six different languages ; we walk- 
 ed down the mount quite a distance, and 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 119 
 
 stood under the olive trees, and I wondered 
 if the Lord had stood in that very same 
 place ; and I thought how tired he was, some 
 of those hot days, when he went there for a 
 rest; and I felt that I must be dreaming, 
 just to think of me^ standing on the Mount 
 of Olives ! 
 
 The olive trees, most of them, were so 
 bent and full of lumps, and looked so old 
 that really they may be some of those which 
 were there when Jesus fed the thousands of 
 hungry people. 
 
 I was told that the olive tree never dies, 
 that when one part dies a new shoot comes 
 up. 
 
 Sunday morning we went to Divine Serv- 
 ice in Christ Church on Zion hill. We were 
 sorry to leave Jerusalem so soon, for there 
 is so much to see ; but as we wanted to get 
 home by Christmas, we had to hurry, and 
 see all that we possibly could. We went to 
 Jaffa by train, from there by steamer to 
 Haifa, and went to the hotel Carmel. The 
 town is built at the base of Mount Carmel, 
 on the bay of Acre. Next day we drove up 
 the steep side of Carmel, a thousand feet 
 above the sea, to see the cave of Elijah. 
 
 It is not a very large cave, but would hold 
 about twenty people. There is now a Eoman 
 Catholic church built over the top of it, and 
 close by a monastery, where some thirty 
 
120 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 monks live. They looked hale and hearty, 
 and were very nice in showing ns the sights. 
 
 On another part of Carmel, we saw where 
 Elijah offered up the sacrifice, when the fire 
 came doAvni from heaven and consumed it; 
 and where he prayed for rain, and the little 
 cloud appeared as big as a man's hand, but 
 which soon spread over the whole sky, and 
 rain poured down in torrents. 
 
 We went down on the sandy shore of the 
 Bay of Acre, beside the lovely Mediterra- 
 nean, where we saw heaps of pretty sea 
 shells. Some were dark blue, from which 
 dye is made. As we journeyed from Carmel 
 to Nazareth, we crossed the river Kishon, 
 where Elijah slew the prophets of Baal. 
 We passed along by the plain of Jezreel, 
 where Jael's tent stood when she drove the 
 nail of the tent into the temple of Sisera 
 while he slept. 
 
 The drive to ISTazareth was very interest- 
 ing. We had three horses and a nice car- 
 riage and a good driver. The distance from 
 Mount Carmel to ^N^azareth is about thirty 
 miles. The road was real good; it wound 
 around the sides of mountains and along 
 beautiful level plains, which stretched as 
 far as the eye could reach. 
 
 We met many caravans of camels and 
 donkeys carrying loads of grain to Haifa; 
 along the roadside were thousands of love- 
 ly purple crocuses, and other beautiful 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 121 
 
 flowers ; we passed by tlie village of Skunem, 
 where Elisha brought the little boy to life ; 
 also Nain, where Jesus and his disciples 
 met the funeral of the young man, the only 
 son of his mother, and she a widow. Jesus 
 came and touched the bier and they that 
 bare him stood still, and he said: ^^Young 
 man, I say unto thee, arise ; and he that was 
 dead sat up." What joy for that sorrowing 
 mother ! 
 
 Arriving in Nazareth we put up at the 
 hotel Germania, had lunch and went out to 
 see the city. It is a very pretty city, sur- 
 rounded by high hills. We were shown 
 Avhere the holy family had lived, and the 
 room where the angel appeared to Mary. 
 The house is cut in the solid rock, like many 
 others ; the rooms were not large but seemed 
 very comfortable. Most of those sacred 
 places are built over with churches. There 
 seemed to be only one place in Nazareth to 
 get water. I think it is a spring; it ijs 
 roofed over and has a spout or tap; all the 
 women of the town go there for water, with 
 large jugs ; some carry them on their heads, 
 and some on their shoulders. I asked one 
 of the women to let me have a drink ; she at 
 once gave me a pint of the water which was 
 ice cold and excellent; there were a great 
 many women and children getting water, 
 the men don't carry water. In fancy I 
 could see the gentle Mary walking along 
 
122 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 with her jug on her shoulder and the little 
 Christ child, toddling along beside her, just 
 as others did today. 
 
 After spending a few days in Nazareth, 
 we went on to Tiberias, some few miles 
 from Nazareth. We came to Cana of Gali- 
 lee. We were taken into a Greek church, 
 where we were shown two large water pots, 
 said to be two of the six which were used 
 at the marriage feast where Jesus turned 
 the water into wine. They may have been 
 of the very ones. One was in good condi- 
 tion, the other one was very much cracked; 
 they seemed to be cut out of solid stone and 
 looked to be very heavy ; however they were 
 well worth seeing, and I am glad that we 
 did see them. 
 
 Cana of today is a very small dusty poor 
 looking place. The drive on to Tiberias 
 was very enjoyable, about twenty miles up 
 the sides of high mountains, around many 
 sharp turns, then down, doT\Ti, again by 
 many zigzag ways, until we came near the 
 sea of Galilee. 
 
 Coming from Nazareth we saw the Mount 
 where Christ was transfigured before his 
 disciples, and Mount Gilboa, where King 
 Saul and his son Jonathan fell in battle; 
 on another hill pointed out to us we saw 
 the tomb of Jonah, the prophet. 
 
 Quite near the sea of Galilee we saw the 
 Mount of Beatitudes, where Christ gave the 
 
 J 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 123 
 
 Sermon on the Mount. It is quite by the 
 roadside ; our carriage stopped for us to see 
 the place ; it is a rather low hill, with two 
 peaks, called the Horns of Hattin. 
 
 As we gazed on this grassy hill, in fancy I 
 saw the five thousand sitting around on the 
 grass and stones, being fed by the loving 
 Master. The mount is not far from the lake 
 of Grennesaret, a lovely place to go to get 
 cool air. 
 
 Just below the plain where the mount 
 stands, over a steep ridge, we suddenly 
 came to the lake, or sea of Gralilee, looking 
 like a drop of dew in the green hills. It 
 looked small among the high hills, but it 
 is not very small ; its length is twelve miles 
 and breath six or over. The Jordan flows 
 into it at one end and out at the other, so 
 the water is good coming down from icy 
 Hermon. We went to the hotel Tiberias, 
 where we were treated very kindly. 
 
 We hired a boat and men to row us over 
 the lake to Capernaum, once a beautiful 
 city, now only a few heaps of stones. It is 
 sad to think of all the cities which once 
 stood around the sea of Galilee, there is 
 only Tiberias left, and it is the most filthy 
 place I have ever seen. There were a great 
 many camels in the yard by the hotel. I 
 went to look at them, they are sad looking 
 animals, the best of them, but I did not 
 wonder that they looked sad; some were 
 
124 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 thin and tired looking, one in particular I 
 felt sorry for, it must have had its halter 
 put on when it was quite young, and left on, 
 for the buckles were embedded in its flesh. 
 The S. P. C. could get good work in, if there 
 was such a society there. 
 
 One morning very early, about four 
 o'clock, we arose to go to Damascus. I 
 looked out of my window over the lake but 
 could see nothing but black darkness. 
 
 By the time we had dressed and had 
 breakfast, daylight had come, and we went 
 down to the shore to the boat which was to 
 take us to the foot of the lake to a place 
 called Samach. We had about eight miles 
 to go but had a large boat with a very large 
 sail, and beside six men to row; there was 
 very little wind so the men had to row the 
 whole way. 
 
 As we went down the sea of Galilee many 
 places of interest were pointed out by our 
 guide. 
 
 One place, the country of the Oadar- 
 enes, where the man came from among the 
 tombs, possessed with devils exceedingly 
 fierce. Jesus cast out the devils and sent 
 them into the herd of swine, which ran down 
 the steep bank and perished in the water. 
 
 As we went down the lake, or sea, the 
 sun arose over the mountains and sent a 
 long shimmer of brightness across the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 125 
 
 water. I tliouglit I had never seen such a 
 beautiful sunrise; I shall never forget it. 
 
 Far away on the shore we could see long 
 caravans of camels, trudging along with 
 their heavy burdens, their drivers behind 
 riding on donkeys. 
 
 After leaving the boat we went through 
 the village of Samach, a miserable and 
 wretched place, the houses nearly all made 
 of mud ; we had to wait for the train quite a 
 while and I was glad when it came along. 
 
 The ride in the train was very enjoyable, 
 through beautiful scenery, high mountains 
 and deep valleys; by lovely oleanders with 
 their great bunches of bloom, castor-oil 
 trees, wild sugar cane, etc., we went through 
 miles and miles of them. 
 
 The high mountains sometimes right by 
 the window of the car, full of dents and 
 seams, made a beautiful sight, and looked 
 like so many grand castles ; part of the way 
 Was over a sandy desert. 
 
 We arrived in Damascus late in the after- 
 noon. I was very tired and after having a 
 good dinner, I went soon to bed. The hotel 
 Victoria is a very good hotel, beautifully 
 clean, cuisine excellent ; they have the sweet- 
 est and largest grapes there that I ever saw; 
 some were nearly as large as crab apples. 
 Our guide took us to see a Mohammedan 
 mosque, where John the Baptist is buried. 
 I could not help wondering if they had got 
 
126 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 Ms head from Herod, or if lie was bnried 
 without it. 
 
 The tomb stood in the middle of the floor ; 
 it was a very costly tomb of marble and 
 gold, very beautiful to see. This mosque 
 of which I speak is called the Great Mosque 
 and is said to be built on the site of the 
 Temple of Eimmon, the god worshipped by 
 the Assyrians spoken of in 2, Kings, in the 
 Bible. We went up in one of the minarets, 
 160 steps, where we had a splendid view of 
 the city and the lovely gardens, a perfect 
 fairy land, elegant dwellings with marble 
 courts, fountains and palms and gorgeous 
 flowers, and all around the bristling min- 
 arets of mosques. 
 
 In the Great Mosque the pulpit, which is 
 very high, having as many as fifteen steps, 
 is cased in, and has a door at the bottom 
 step; all the casing is inlaid mth tortoise 
 shell and mother of pearl, very beautiful. 
 On either side of the pulpit there is a half 
 circular place in the wall about six feet wide 
 and perhaps twelve feet high, inlaid also 
 with tortoise shell and pearl. These are 
 called prayer places ; the sheiks pray there ; 
 the people kneel on the floor. The floor is 
 covered with rich thick carpet, so soft that 
 3^ou cannot hear a footstep. We had slip- 
 pers put on over out boots before we were 
 allowed to go in. The people who go in to 
 worship must first wash their feet at the 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 127 
 
 fountain in the courtyard. We were taken 
 to see tlie tomb of Saladin, the Saracen 
 general who conquered the crusaders. We 
 visited a large manufacturing place where 
 all manner of beautiful gold, silver, and 
 brass work was done. The manager told us 
 he employed ^Ye hundred hands, a great 
 many were boys and girls not more than 
 twelve years old. They are very clever at 
 this work but it did seem too bad to see 
 these children working w^ho should be in 
 school. When the master's back was turn- 
 ed every hand was stretched out to us for 
 backsheesh. 
 
 From the factory we went through the 
 street, that is called Straight, spoken of in 
 the Act of the Apostles, and saw the place 
 where St. Paul was let down over the wall 
 in a basket. We were also in the house of 
 Ananias where the scales fell off St. Paul's 
 eyes. 
 
 Some of the bazaars are very fine; they 
 are in streets roofed over with glass ; some 
 of the stores are very large ; we were always 
 met at the shop doors by some man who 
 would invite us very politely to come in just 
 to see their goods, not to huy^ ah no! 
 
 But once you go in and they show heaps 
 of lovely things, it is hard to get out without 
 buying. 
 
 One very fine store we went into, we were 
 handed chairs to sit down; then a dainty 
 
128 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 tray of coffee was brought to us, served in 
 such bewitching little cups. After we had 
 sipped our coffee, we were shown the most 
 beautiful silk goods that I had even seen, 
 and some Turkish carpets, which had come 
 from the Sultan's palace; so soft and love- 
 ly, they looked too good to walk on, and 
 would have made beautiful pictures if they 
 had been framed. 
 
 One of the sights was a grand oriental 
 house. We drove along a narrow street 
 which had a very high wall on one side. Our 
 guide opened a door in the wall and took us 
 into a beautiful palace. First there was a 
 courtyard, or room without a roof; there 
 was a fountain and a great basin full of 
 pretty fish, some red colored, some gold; 
 lovely palms and flow^ers, a perch with a 
 large handsome parrot sitting on it, the 
 long feathers ijn its tail reaching the 
 ground. I said: "Polly, can you talk?" but 
 she only blinl^ed her eyes at me and wonder- 
 ed who I was. I asked the man who showed 
 us through if the parrot could talk, he said, 
 "Oh, yes," but she speaks in Arabic, so that 
 was why she didn't knoAV what I said. She 
 didn't understand English! The house it- 
 self was something to see; divans, chairs, 
 tables, stands, all inlaid with tortoise shell 
 and pearl, were of the most elegant make ; 
 the rugs on the floors, like softest velvet. I 
 cannot enumerate the lovely things that 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 129 
 
 were there, nor do justice in describing 
 them. I could only gaze at their magni- 
 licence and gasp. I began to think that this 
 must be Aladdin's palace sure enough. Some 
 of these rooms had an open side next this 
 place where the fountain was. I thought 
 how fine and restful to lie off on one of these 
 divans, with a nice book, and the music of 
 the fountain along side. The river Abana 
 was quite near the hotel Victoria, and Phar- 
 par farther away. These rivers branch off 
 into many streams and irrigate the land for 
 miles and miles ; they have their origin in a 
 cave, from whence the water rushes with 
 great force, dashing over the rocks. These 
 are the rivers which Naaman the leper 
 thought better than all the waters of Israel, 
 2d Kings y.12. 
 
 Today we are leaving Damascus to go to 
 Ba'albek. I wish we could have stayed 
 longer in Damascus, there was so much to 
 see; the luxuriant gardens, luscious fruit 
 and beautiful flowers, were a perfect de- 
 light. We reached Ba'albek about three 
 o'clock in the afternoon after a very inter- 
 esting ride in the train, through rugged and 
 grand scenery, great mountains and verd- 
 ant plains. Ba'albek is the Heliopolis of the 
 Greeks and Eomans, celebrated for its sun 
 worship in the Temple of the sun god, which 
 was one of the wonders of the world, a build- 
 ing which at one time covered thirteen 
 
130 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 acres. It must liave been a magnifleent 
 structure when it was complete. It was 
 two hundred years in building. The great 
 Temple of the Sun is now a mass of ruins. 
 Entering the ruins we came into a large 
 court seventy yards wide by eighty long. A 
 handsome portal led from this into the 
 great court about a hundred and fifty yards 
 long and by a hundred and twenty-five yards 
 wide. 
 
 Originally there were seventeen columns 
 on either side of the Temple, and ten at 
 either end, fifty-four in all, the building en- 
 closed by them being two hundred and nine- 
 ty feet long, by a hundred and sixty broad : 
 now only five columns remain standing, 
 they are about seventy five feet in height 
 and six feet in diameter, all around there 
 are masses of broken columns. 
 
 All the masonry of the outer wall is pro- 
 digious in its dimensions, but the most won- 
 derful is the western wall, where are three 
 stones of enormous size ; one stone measures 
 sixty-four feet long, another sixty-three feet 
 eight inches, and a third sixty-three feet. 
 Each is thirteen feet high. They are placed 
 in the wall at a height of twenty feet from 
 the ground. How they were hauled and 
 raised, is a problem no one can answer, the 
 largest one is said to weigh something like 
 ten hundred tons. 
 
 Some of the marble cornices had exquisite 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 131 
 
 carving on them, and strange to say tlie 
 great pillars and blocks were just as white 
 and beautiful as if they were just cut. 
 After leaving the ruins we passed by the 
 quarries from w^hence the great stones used 
 for the platform of the Temple of the Sun 
 were quarried. There is one gigantic stone 
 still lying where it was left by the workmen 
 nearly seventeen hundred years ago. It is 
 68 feet long, 14 high, 14 broad. It is es- 
 timated that it weighs nearly thirteen hun- 
 dred tons. 
 
 Before reaching Ba'albek on the top of a 
 high hill, we saw the tomb of Abel ; it is 30 
 feet long. We stayed all night at the Grand 
 Hotel at Ba'albek ; in the morning we had to 
 drive quite a distance to the train; on our 
 way to Beyrout, the journey was about sixty 
 miles, but it was very interesting ; the great- 
 er part was a climb up the steep mountains 
 of Lebanon. Nearly all the way we passed 
 by beautiful vineyards, and saw many vil- 
 lages down on the plains below us; up on 
 the mountains we saw many shepherds with 
 their flocks of sheep and goats, some places 
 we saw camel and donkey caravans, wend- 
 ing their way along the mountain track, 
 with their heavy burdens ; their fierce look- 
 ing drivers, with turbaned heads and long 
 flowing garments, hurrying them along; 
 they are very cruel to their beasts, loading 
 
132 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 tlieni heavily and beating them unmerci- 
 fully. 
 
 At one place we saw the tomb of Noah, in 
 a village called Kerak Nuh. The tomb 
 measures betw^een fift}^ and sixty yards in 
 length, the men at that time must have been 
 giants. 
 
 The road from Ba'albek to Beyrout was 
 winding and leads by a series of zigzags to 
 the summit of Lebanon, and then descends 
 by another series of zigzags to Beyrout. 
 When the summit of Lebanon is reached the 
 scenery is delightful, fifty-six hundred feet 
 above the sea level. Below may be seen the 
 promontory of Beyrout, with its white 
 houses, in the midst of beautiful green trees, 
 while beyond is the blue Mediterranean. 
 
 As we descend toward Beyrout, every 
 turn of the road gives glimpses of luxurious 
 villas, beautiful gardens and orchards. Ar- 
 riving we went to the Hotel d' Orient, a very 
 nice hotel, with a sitting out parlor on the 
 roof, where we had a fine view of the city 
 and of the harbor, and shipping. Our drago- 
 man brought a carriage and took us to see 
 the sights. We saw some palatial res- 
 idences, eight of them belonged to one man. 
 It so happened that we met the gentleman 
 and his wife and son in Damascus, they sat 
 at table with us and seemed very fine people, 
 (real flesh and blood,) they seemed quite 
 pleased to meet us again. 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 133 
 
 The city of Bej^rout is built on the side of 
 one of the mountains of Lebanon. The 
 streets around the base are very nice, but 
 the ones that go up are very steep. I used 
 to wonder how they ever hauled loads up. 
 The trees, which are many, are beautiful 
 and the flowers marvelous. In the garden 
 of the hotel, I picked the most delicious 
 oranges, ripe and sweet as honey, there were 
 many kinds of fruit there. 
 
 Beyrout is a very ancient city dating far- 
 ther back than the fifteenth century b. c. 
 After spending a few pleasant days, we had 
 to take the steamer for Constantinople. We 
 went on board in the morning, the day was 
 rather stormy looking, and by night quite 
 a gale sprang up. The steamer tossed and 
 pitched at a great rate, often the propeller 
 would come right out of the water. I think 
 it was the worst storm that I was ever out 
 in. Next morning the gale was pretty well 
 spent, and the sea looked a beautiful blue. 
 
 We passed by many islands as we neared 
 Constantinople. I must mention a great 
 rock which we saw standing alone, it was 
 cone shaped, reaching a great height, it 
 looked like a piece of masonry, it was 
 shaped so evenly, and standing there in the 
 sea, it looked like a lighthouse. 
 
134 our trip to europe 
 
 Turkey 
 
 Late one afternoon we arrived in Con- 
 stantinople, tlie day was lovely. As we 
 steamed up the long harbor, we had a splen- 
 did view of the great city. Built on high 
 hills, it show off to advantage its beautiful 
 mosques, and elegant buildings. 
 
 In the morning we drove over to Stamboul 
 over the Galata bridge, across the Golden 
 Horn, a very long and very broad bridge, a 
 place where all manner of oriental costumes 
 are to be seen, and all manner of peoples. 
 As we were wandering around we went into 
 the mosque of St. Sophia, a very rich and 
 elegant one. As usual we had to put slip- 
 pers on over our boots, else we could not 
 enter. Later we went through some of the 
 bazaars. The goods displayed for sale were 
 the most beautiful that we had yet seen. 
 One of the bazaars is in what was once a 
 convent. It must have been an enormous 
 building, for there are streets running 
 through, all under cover. 
 
 The men in the shops were very polite and 
 nice to us and didn't clamor for us to buy, 
 as they did in some other cities. There are 
 no lady attendants in the shops, the men do 
 all the selling. 
 
 We were told that there were 250,000 
 dogs in Constantinople, and I think 
 very likely it was true, for they were every- 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 135 
 
 where as many as eight in a group. They 
 are kept to eat up all filth about the streets. 
 They are an tigly lot, mostly black and 
 white, short hair and short ears. After a 
 few delightful days spent in this beautiful 
 city, we are steaming off once more for Mar- 
 seilles. This has been a lovely warm day, 
 we walked the deck this evening and saw 
 the sun go down, a red ball into the smooth 
 water, and the purple mists on the far off 
 mountains made a beautiful sight, the sky 
 streaked with crimson and gold. 
 
 Today we are anchored in the harbor of 
 Smyrna, will be here till tomorrow night, 
 and will then sail for Athens. On our way 
 to Athens the sea was rather rough, some of 
 the passengers were sick and there were few 
 at the tables, but we enjoyed every meal. We 
 were only half a day at Athens, so did not 
 have time to see a great deal of the city, 
 but saw Mars Hill, where St. Paul stood and 
 preached, and some other places of interest, 
 bought some bunches of lovely violets, which 
 kept fresh for a long time. 
 
 'Nor, 23. This morning we passed through 
 the straits of Messina. We passed quite close 
 to the shore, where the earthquake destroy- 
 ed the city a few years ago. We could see 
 great chasms rent in the rocks and ground, 
 houses lying in heaps, a scene of dreadful 
 devastation. Still the people are building 
 the city up again. 
 
136 OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 As we sailed along we had a good view ol 
 Mount Aetna. The steam was pouring out 
 of its top and sides, and rising up in the air 
 in clouds, a dreadful looking volcano; yet 
 there are a number of towns quite near it. 
 
 Nov. 24. This morning was very fine and 
 warm, but toward noon there was quite a 
 squall which tossed the ship about a good 
 deal and kept some of the passengers from 
 luncheon. 
 
 Early this morning we anchored in the 
 bay of Naples, the wind had gone down and 
 the sea was calm. I had another look at 
 Vesuvius, smoking away as usual. The 
 city of Naples looked so pretty, built around 
 the bay with lovely green hills in the back- 
 ground, dotted over with beautiful white 
 stone homes and lovely gardens. 
 
 Nov. 25. We are now on our way to Mar- 
 seilles, which we will reach tonight, we are 
 passing many beautiful islands, the air is 
 clear and warm. 
 
 We arrived in Marseilles safely and re- 
 ceived a heap of letters. We were glad to 
 hear from home, and to know that they were 
 all well. After getting our traps together 
 and saying goodbye to friends, we took the 
 train for Monte Carlo, about five hours in 
 the train. 
 
 The cit}^ of Monte Carlo is certainly a 
 beautiful city, built on high hills facing the 
 lovely blue Mediterranean. The residences 
 
OUR TRIP TO EUROPE 137 
 
 are splendid and the gardens a mass of 
 fruit and flowers, an ideal spot. 
 
 We went into tlie Casino to see the people 
 gambling, the long tables were all occupied, 
 and the heaps of gold were a sight to be re- 
 membered. We saw one young man lose 
 four thousand dollars. He got up from the 
 table with a very white face and went out, 
 another man put one gold piece down and 
 won one more, he seemed quite pleased and 
 went away smiling. 
 
 After we had walked through the differ- 
 ent rooms and watched the play, we went to 
 a hotel and had tea. After resting for a 
 while we took the train for Paris. Next 
 day we left for Liverpool, where our passage 
 was booked, in the Hesperian, a very fine 
 boat. We had a suite of rooms and bath, 
 very elegant. We met some very nice 
 people on board, which made the homeward 
 voyage very pleasant. 
 
 We arrived safely home, glad to see every- 
 body, and they to see us, and I thought the 
 day I got home was the very best day of all. 
 Home is where the heart is.