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 ADVANCED HIMITS 
 
 'Ka-sJS;' "Si< «»« "OSBI. ■'^liSV '■ ■■■ V 
 
 ^. Vfm tl S ^ 
 
 n ON o 
 
 DRESS CUTTING. 
 
 K\^ » - / 
 
 Mr. & Mrs. J. S 
 
 BURLINGTON. IOWA 
 
 BAUGHMAN, 
 
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 
 
 
 r.iiui.iNcriiN. KHV \ : 
 
 CllMMIIU IM I'UINIINI. lOMI'WN. 
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BAUGHMAN'S ADVANCED HINTS ON DliUSS CUTTING. 
 
 :t 
 
 -IlvrTPtODXJOTOFt^S^. 
 
 ID 
 
 u^ 
 
 RESS CUTTING is an art, and requires 
 
 TASTE and CAREFUL STUDY. It IS A SCIENCE 
 
 and requires precision on the part of the 
 
 person who takes the measure and drafts 
 
 and cuts the garment. 
 
 T Putting the lining upon the goods and 
 
 BASTING the single parts of the garment together 
 
 PROPERLY, is also ail important feature. 
 
 A garment may be cut artistically and cor- 
 rectly, and then spoiled in basting and finishing. 
 It may be cut correctly, basted nicely and fit 
 smoothly ; yet lack the artistic effect which 
 characterizes a first class garment, simply be- 
 cause the shape and curvature of the seams and 
 
 the draprry are not in harmony with the form. 
 This entire book, therefore, has been written 
 and illustrated to make self-instruction not only 
 possilile but easy. To teach you how to copy from 
 any fashion journals, and to design your own pat- 
 terns as fashion may dictate. 
 
 In studying this book, read carefully each 
 sentence, and perform that part of the work, then 
 another sentence, and do that, and so continue 
 with each piece until the garment is drafted. If 
 you do this, and make frequent reference to the 
 illnstrationv, you will have no trouble in under- 
 standing all designs herein illustrated. 
 
 3-^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 TO OUR CUSTOMERS. 
 
 Tliiis Bools. is designed to t>e lased either witii tlie 
 Glove-Fitting Garment Cutter, Improved No. I, 
 
 Adjustable Tailor System. 
 
 -^READ OAREFULLY.^r 
 
 Those using the Improved No. 1, Glove-Fitting Garment Clutter can understand the illustrations 
 in this book by cutting a paper pattern, (according to meas\ire, ) on traced linen, allowing tio seams. 
 Use this pattern according to directions for the Adjustable Tailor System, and substitute the word 
 pattern wherever the word machine or sjjstem. occurs. And where curve of xqtiare is used, substitute 
 cttmie of ^de- form. 
 
i:n (JiiJ/Ays AitvASi i:j> hims os ih:i:ss < i iiisa. 
 
 THE DOUBLE FRENCH DART. 
 s]:k iKaiii', I. 
 
 Tile object of this 
 cutting ii^ to give a per- 
 fect tit to the garment 
 at arms-eye ; also in 
 front at fiiUest part of 
 bust, where;SO many 
 have to take up rtarts. 
 To cut this with the 
 machine, first make a 
 common draft in full. 
 Then hold your finger 
 on system as at point 
 L. (as shown in Fig. 1,) 
 about one inch in front 
 of front dart; move 
 system forward at 
 waist line, about one 
 inch, and trace front 
 edge of front dart B. 
 also from point of bust down front of system, as 
 l)er line A. 
 
 Replace system to original i)osition. and hold 
 your finger above, and back of back dart, as at point 
 K. Move system back about H inches at waist line. 
 Now trace back edge of back dart C, also the under- 
 arm seam 1). from arms-eye of system down to bot- 
 tom of basque. If properly moved, the machine 
 will be about f of an inch higher at arms-eye than 
 the draft, and should be so cut. The lines A, B. 
 (', D, represents the change made in this style. 
 
 Those using ihe No. 1. can cut a paper pattern on triunl liiirs. in- 
 rliidiii'j the fiarts. then move pattern as seen in-Fi{; 1 
 
 THE SINGLE DART. 
 
 SI' !■■ t icrkio I \ 
 
 In cutting the Single 
 Dart, trace aroun<l out- 
 side of system. Then 
 move system back | of an 
 inch and trace front edge 
 of f r o n t dart. M a r k 
 through the l>ack slot, 
 between the darts at 
 w a ist of system as at 
 Itoint J : also mark be- 
 tween dart pieces as at I. 
 Then use l)ack e<lge of 
 front dart to trace to 
 these points marked. 
 
 Also take off J on an 
 inch at under-arm seam 
 as af point K. 
 
 In using tiie No. i to cut tliis sl\lf, simply mariv points 
 III lialf fitting dart, (found on tlinrt, i ami take off two sizes 
 ai waist oi underarm seam. 
 
 TO NARRJW SPACE BETWEEN DARTS. 
 
 - 1 L I uaki: I K. 
 
 First trace around out- 
 [side of system, then trace 
 
 front rl a r t. No w m a r k 
 [through back slot at waist 
 lline between the darts at 
 
 point T. Hold finger at 
 I top of back dart. Then 
 
 move system forward so 
 
 front edge of back dart 
 I touches this point, and 
 
 trace the back dart as per 
 IdotttMl lines. 
 
 DARTLESS BASQUE. 
 
 SI'I, lli.CRK 2.. 
 
 To vwX this style of basque 
 ,nark around on outside of 
 system, and draw waist 
 line. Now measure in 1^ 
 inches at waist line, from the under-arm seam; 
 also i' of an incli at bottom of skirt, then draw a 
 straight line from arms-eye. down to waistline, 
 and resliajit' willi cnr\e of s([uare as seen in Fig. '1 
 
 ])y the heavy curved lines. 
 Measure down on this 
 straight line the length of 
 ycnir under-arm measure, 
 and mark waist line as in- 
 dicated or seam will be too 
 long. Then sha[)e tln^ hip 
 seam of skirt from this 
 point. Now measure in 1^^ 
 inches at waist line in 
 front, and I of an inch at 
 Itottoin of bastiue, and 
 shape with curve of the 
 square, as per line K. 
 Then shape bottom of 
 bas(|uc. 
 
 To throw a fullness into 
 the bust, add 1 inch out 
 from point of shoulder 
 ; ;'am. as jrei' d(^1te(l line and shape arms-eye with 
 .-ysteni; then take up 1 inch in center of shoulder. 
 This is only done in cutting the lining. Then in 
 basting on the goods, hold the lining full at waist 
 line. 
 
 DAK-TLESS BASQUE. 
 
 CPF.N I.N THE n.^CK, OR UNDER-ARM SEAM. 
 
 si:!', i'i(;i:Kr 3. 
 
 To (lit this style. [)lace system with fronton 
 fold of goods, and trace neck, shouhler, arms-eye 
 and under-arm strain to bottom of l)asque. Mark 
 waist line. Now mark off the width of both darts 
 
 (;') in.> at waist line from nndcr-ann seam K to L; 
 
liAi mi MAS's Mn.is(i:h iiisrs o.v inti.ss < i ri/.\(;. 
 
 also H inches at hottou of 
 skirt of l)asque. Draw a 
 straight line from arms- 
 eye to point at waist line 
 L. then sliape and eurve 
 the uiider-arni seam as in- 
 dicated, witli the curve of 
 the square. Measure down 
 to j?et the exact waist line, 
 then shape the hip seam. 
 If this line is not curved 
 the dress will be too tiRlit 
 aci'oss the l)ust. 
 
 The f II 1 1 n e s s can be 
 thrown into the front, the 
 same as in No. 2; as indi- 
 cated ))y dotted lines K 
 and I. (Fi^. -5). 
 Tile line A indicates another style where the 
 front is slashed from A to O on fold. Tiien the 
 goods is drawn liack to the shoulder, and a fancy 
 vest inserted. These bascjues are slashed in front 
 from bottom of basque to waist line. 
 
 LADIES' COAT BASQUE, 
 
 WITH REVERE AND COLLAR COMBINED. 
 
 SKK l-KM-RK 4. 
 
 To cut this gai m mi 
 first make a conuuou 
 draft in full : then 
 draw a straight line 
 K, from neck at 
 shoulder seam, down 
 to waist line. Now 
 measure from this line 
 towards the arms-eye- 
 as far as you wish the 
 revere to lap on the 
 front, as point ('. 
 Til en measure fi-om 
 line K. out. and mfirk 
 point A the same dis- 
 tance. Then use the 
 curved edge <>f t In- 
 square to shape tlu^ 
 front inward to point 
 A. then outward to ba<^k of collar. 
 
 The collar should l)e about ;^ inches high, and 
 cut long so as to liave room to fit it to the form at 
 tlie l)ack. 
 
 This garment is very desiral)le for vest fronts 
 or shirt waists. Tlie back can be cut as any ordi- 
 nary basque or with the French Back. (See fig. 7. t 
 
 LADIES COAT, 
 
 WITH REVERE AND COLLAR COMBINED 
 
 s I-; |- I' I < ; r k i-, 4 \ . 
 
 In cutting a 
 ladies' coat or 
 a n y o\i t side 
 garment, it is 
 necessary to 
 add one size to 
 the b u st, the 
 waist, the neck 
 and arms-eye. 
 Also to the el- 
 bow, wrist and 
 a r 111 s-e y e o f 
 s!ee\e. 
 
 Add out as 
 indicated from 
 neck of system 
 at I. toward 
 poi n t L. the 
 distan ce y o u 
 wish the revere 
 1 turn back 
 towards arms- 
 eye; then curve 
 in towards the 
 waist line with 
 curve of square 
 Should you wish the coal to lap from top to 
 
 bottom, add tiie distance from hem at waist line. 
 
 to the line of the liuttons, as per dotted line F. 
 To cut the dart as indicated, simply place the 
 
 under-arm form straight with the under-arm seam 
 
 of front; then trace around the outside of both. 
 
 and throw off the dart from the front. A two in( h 
 
 dart will leave the coat 1 inch loose. 
 
 In cutting the collar it is best to <Mit it onto 
 
 the revere, without velvet or other goods is used. 
 
 In that case, cut the collar sejiarate as indicated. 
 
 aii<l sew on. 
 
 SEAMLESS WAIST OR BASQUE. 
 
 >l.l I li.lKI. 3. !• \(.l (1. 
 
 To cut the KeaiiileHx ii^aixt. fold the /i/iiiu/ on 
 the bias. Set each i)iece of the machine to the 
 iiieas\ire taken. Pla<-e the liack on fold of goods 
 as in Fig. .">. IMace side-form so it touches Ivick at 
 arms-eye and waist with curve slightly lapping on 
 back: also lapskii-1. .Next place under-arm form 
 to touch side-form at arnis-eyr and waist, 'i'licii 
 the front to touch under-arm foi-m at arms-eye. 
 and to A//^ '>//f ///c// at waist, as at B. Now trace 
 ai-ound the (uit^ide. as the machine is placed. 
 
a 
 
 liAiaHMAxs Ai)\Ay( t:i> hims <t\ duess ( nr/ya 
 
 Use the square and take off 2 inches in front, 
 from point A to L, and shape with curve of scjuare 
 from point of bust, to L at waist line. Now meas- 
 ure from A down <S inclies bek)w waist line, and 
 slant to point L. Round oft' the skirt as indicated 
 with curve of square. Take up A inch dart in 
 front, and i in(>h dart at arms-eye in front and 
 l)ack. Always make the skirt at least H- inches 
 below waist line at point B. Then if too lon^cut 
 a few slashes at the hip, until it will fit without 
 wrinkles. Alirai/s fit the lining Jirst in this basque. 
 If the outside is a plaid, be sure that the ijlaids 
 match in front. 
 
 In cutting striped goods, make a seam down 
 the ])ack and run the stripes to form a {)oint a lit- 
 tle below waist line. This gives a long eft'ect to 
 the waist. 
 
 THE DOUBLE SIDE-FORM. 
 
 This style is only used in cutting for large 
 forms, 26 inch waist and upwards. The object is 
 to give a slender appearance to the form in the 
 back, and in cutting princess or polonaise, to en- 
 able one to throw the drapery or ])leats farther 
 l)ack. 
 
 Set the ba(-k, the side-form, and under-arm 
 form to tlie measures taken. "'■Place the back and 
 side-form together on a piece of paper, as per dot- 
 ted line, figure 6, and trace around the outside. 
 Now trace the under-arm form, then take oft' | of 
 an inch at side seam, and add the same to the 
 back. Shape line A with the side-form, and line 
 L with tlie uiKler-arm form. 
 
 Divide the space at 
 arms-eye into three 
 equal parts. Make 
 the back at waist line 
 1 inch wi de, and T) 
 inches below waist 
 m a k e the skirt 2 
 i n c h es wide, and 
 draw line B. Now 
 divide what is left of 
 bick, into two equal 
 pirt^. Use the curve 
 of the square from 
 40 t:) shape the curve 
 of buck B. B. to waist 
 line, and draw line 1 
 from w\aist line down 
 staight with the back 
 se:im for skirt of first 
 Kill? form. Sliap;' curve 1, Y. from the word give, 
 found on s(|uar(\ Draw line 2 of the sec-ond side 
 form straight with line ], l^elow waist. Shape 
 the skirt of first side-foi-m 1. K. with side-form of 
 system the same as 2, A. 
 
 Now use tracing wheel, trace the back to B, B, 
 on the lining, then move over, and trace first side 
 form 1, 1. Tlien move again and trace second side 
 form 2, 2. 
 
 Be sure to mark wjiist lines [n-operly in cicli 
 piece. 
 
 * 'I'hose usiiif; tlie No. i, must cut a palterii ot tin- 
 bark and Hide-form, and place as indicated by the dot 
 ted lines. llse the curve of the side-form of Si/xtciH. 
 from the point marked Round Shoulders, to shape the 
 curve of back B. B. and to shape the curve i, Y, use the 
 side-form from the lotvest tjfisll below the cross on edge 
 of system. Shape curve A. with side-seam of side-form 
 and cui'\e L witli side-seam of the under arm form. 
 
 FRENCH BACK. 
 
 SKK l''I<J (. 
 
 'I'his style of gar- 
 ment is often used 
 for small forms, and 
 also in cutting coats. 
 
 To cut the French 
 Back place the l)ack 
 and side-form to- 
 gether as per dotted 
 lines a n d t r a c e 
 around them. Now 
 trace u n d e r-a r m 
 form and draw waist 
 line. 
 
 Take off from the 
 side-form at waist li 
 inches and 1 incli at 
 
HAIGHMAN'S AIHAXCED HIXTS O.V IHiKSS crTTINd 
 
 aniis-eye ; and add the same to tlie \mder-ann 
 form. * Use the curve of the square from (hish 
 ])eh)\v 3(1, to shape line L to waist line; and nse 
 tlie curve of the side-form from the waist line up 
 to sliape line R. 
 
 Measure the space of hip of skirts from \j to 
 K, and a(hl ^ of sp:ice to either side of tlie skirt of 
 hack, as at F and K ; also ;^ at skirt of under-arm 
 form as at 1. 
 
 * Those using the No. i. can shape h'lie L with the 
 curve of side-form, from the lowest dash down, and tlie 
 line R of underarm form with side-seam curve of the side 
 
 SKLVAOK. 
 
 form. 
 
 YOKES. 
 
 To cut a yoke, set all the p:irtsof the machine 
 to the exact measures. Then place back on fold 
 of Koods as in Fis;. 8, place side-form next to it. 
 and trace around both. The front is cut asjndi- 
 cated with no seam lietweeu the under-arm form 
 and front. Cut as much below the arms-eye as 
 you wish, usnaly H inches. 
 
 BLOUSE WAIST. 
 
 sKK Ki(;i;Kr.s S and 9. 
 A Blome irc//s'/ can be cut in the same man- 
 ner, as a yoke, except you cut straight down as at 
 line K of back, and cut both front and back six 
 inidies lon.arer than the underarm lentrth. 
 
 BELL S/'JRT. 
 
 SI, I lie, I Kl I (I. 
 
 To cut the Bell Skirt roYverWy you should have 
 doul>le width Koods. Fold goods as seen in Fig. 
 10. Draw line K L 2i inches below selvage, and 
 the length of half the size of your waist measure, 
 plus ;5 inches for darts. Thus if your waist meas- 
 ure is 2'J inches, the line K L should l)e 11 inches, 
 plus 3 inches for darts, equals 14 indies in this 
 draft. Round off from top of selvage to point K. 
 
 Take up .} inch dart on fold in front ; then 
 measure back 4 inches and take up U inch dart. 
 Then half way between this dart and point L, 
 take up U inches. The dotted line K indicates 
 the hij) measure, taken 5 inches below tlie waist 
 line. After drafting the skirt, test this measure 
 with the tape, and if not wide enough add to the 
 14 inches at line K L. and take up mon- in darts. 
 
 SF.I,V.\OK. 
 
 Measure down on fold of goods, the length 
 of your skirl in fi'oni from line K L I0 A. (say 40 
 inches.) Then measure back IS inciies to point 
 B, and from top of first dart down towards point 
 B, 4()i inches. Then liack is inches and from lop 
 of second (lai1. down toward point ('.41 inches. 
 Then is inches to point)), and from top of sel- 
 vage at point L. draw toward point I), 41. t inches. 
 
 This will make the skirt '^ yards wide and is 
 suffic-ieut for walking length. For a reoejition 
 (foirn the full width of goods may be added. The 
 length of train is usually from S to 1") inches 
 longer than the front and sides. 
 
 The skirt is not lined, hut fastened to a 
 foundation skirt by the darts and belt. Cut the 
 lining as per unlettered dotted lines. Also cut 
 the goods in like manner and sew together, if 
 goods is not wide enough for lengths of skirt. If 
 this is not desired, gore the skirt as per dotted 
 lines A. B. C and D. 
 
 FRENCH SKIRT. 
 
 s I !■: I !( ; r i< v. i i . 
 
 SKIA A(iK. 
 
 SKI,\ \(;k 
 
s 
 
 ii.ir(uiM.t\'s mvAM i:i> hints oa iwi:ss ( i iriMi. 
 
 Cut the French, Skirt same as the Bell, (Fig. 10, 
 page 7) from selvage down, as per line K N ; then 
 add a fnll width in center of back, as from K to 
 L. This width over to the line C I, is put into 
 pleats, and thrown under the skirt at waist, and 
 It't fall natural to bottom of skirt. 
 
 If goods is too narrow for this style it is better 
 to cut the lining as in Fig. K), and arrange the 
 (forxln in s)nre>< as lines A R C, <fec. 
 
 PLAIN GORED SKIRT. 
 
 SHOULDER CAPE. 
 WITH PLEATS IN FRONT AND BACK. 
 
 sir. KICUKK A 13. 
 
 To cut this cape, measure as for Fig. i;5. The 
 space K L, (9inches); is the measure over tiie arm, 
 the same as A B, Fig. 18. The space from L to H, 
 is the goods thrown into pleats in \\\e hack; and 
 
 In cutting this conimoii skirt refer to 
 diagram 1-', A and B. also to //isfniction 
 Book iiage •_';-( for sizes and directions. 
 
 SHOULDER CAPE. 
 To cut thisrv/y/^. take all measures as for an 
 ordinary dress, then set the front and back to the 
 measures taken. Place liack on fold of goods as 
 in Fig. i:>. Draw waist line K across the goods 
 straight with selvage. Now measure out from 
 arms-eye of back as from A to B. the size of your 
 measure over the arni from arms-eye of front 
 to arms-eye back (See Fifime 2 jiractice ine;is\ire in 
 instinctiiin book), and draw line A F. Place the 
 front with waist of tystem, at under-arm seam, on 
 waist line K, and arms-eye to touch the end of 
 line A B. Trace around outside. Now cut from 
 B up to L. an<l down to end of line A, a little on 
 the inside of arms-?ye of back to give a narrow ef- 
 fect to the ))ack. ("ut shouldei- seams as indicated. 
 
 from K to I. is the pleats in \\w front. The space 
 varies with the nuiiil)erof pleats desired, usually 
 from (') to ii ill. 
 
 Should you desii'e a vont with the "Angel" 
 sleeve, cut the sleeve as indicated by theletters R, 
 1. K, F. L, H and N. The arms-eye K, F.L, can be 
 any height desired, and fulled into the sleeve of 
 coat or wrap; while the space L H and K 1, are 
 put into pleats, and hang loose. 
 
 FRENCH SLEEVES 
 
 SKI'-. KICURK I 4, I'ACK (i. 
 
 To ctit the French Sleeve, add to the phiin 
 upper 8 inches, as from A to B, then make line P 
 B the same length as P A. Now shape the top E, 
 with the curve of the square, and make any 
 height desired. Always tioice the height you wish 
 the sleeve. ■■'■ Noir turn the fti/xtetn over ; place it 
 with edge touching edge" of draft from elbow at 
 P to wrist ; and trace under jxirt of a j)l(iin coat 
 deeve. This will leave you the lines J, P, B, for 
 the seam from elbow to shoulders, and no seam 
 from elbow to wrist. 
 
 'Vo cut the under part small and to hide this 
 seam, take off from the under part 2 inches, as 
 from J to I, and add the same to the upper part, 
 as from B to K. Makefile line P K 7} inch longer 
 than the line P I. 
 
 To cut theLeg O'Muttoii, with no seam in the 
 back, shape as piM- dotted line F L 'O M. witli 
 curve of scpiare. 
 
 "Thos'i usinj; the .V,;. /, can cut tlie.se sleeves, by first 
 drafliiif;" the upper part on tlie lining, then cut th ; /><!///•/■// 
 i>l tlie iniiier part of a plain ctial sleeiu- : ami place pattern to 
 touch at elliow and wrist. 'I'race arounci uniler part from 
 wrist to I I and P. and cut as per directions above. t't-c 
 side form rurvi' to slia|)(' iiiijli toji sleeves. 
 
BAUGHMAys Ain ANVEIt HINTS O.V 1 Hi ESS (riTI.M;. 
 
 u 
 
 over with elbow ami top touching at draft, as at 
 H L), ami mark around it for sleeve No. i : also 
 mark elbow at 1^. 
 
 To cut sleeve No. 2. hold your tinker on 
 pattern at eliiow, and move wrist to touch dralt 
 at 1! ami .\ : then mai k elbow at I an<l trace 
 around to ,\. 
 
 MATCHING PLAIDS 
 
 S V. V. M ( . 1 i; I 
 
 I'). 
 
 JERSY SLEEVES. 
 
 SEK FIGL'RK 1 5. 
 
 To cut Jersi/ Sleeves No. 1 trace 
 around sleeve system as per line A, H. 
 D ; then turn si/stem over and let it 
 touch draft at elbow B, and upper end 
 at D ; then trace under part of the 
 plain coat sleeve from elb^w t > wrist, 
 as A, B, ('. 
 
 To cut sleeve No. 2, trace upper 
 part as before, also the under part from 
 I) to L ateUiow, and line L. B, throuKh 
 slot of sleeve ; then hold your finder 
 on system at elbow and move wrist of 
 system to touch wrist of draft at A. 
 and trace line B I throuprh the sh)t ; 
 then from I to A, for under part of 
 plain (-oat sleeve. To cut aBell Sleeve 
 join ends as per line O. 
 
 To match i)laids nicely has caused 
 dress-makers much trouble; yet it is easy 
 if care is taken to place system with 
 waist line on a stripe, and the centre seam 
 from fleck to centre of back, on the stripe: 
 now count the number of stt-ipes irom waiM 
 of l)ack at K to arms-eye of l)ack at L. both uji- 
 ward, and to the right ; then place \W waist line 
 of Hide-form curve J to the same position of tlie 
 
 {■■■■■■mi 
 
 Those using the Xo. i. can cut this sleeve b\- first 
 drafting the upper on the lining, then cut a paper pat 
 tern of tlie under part of a //,//>/ ,i>i}l ih-i-n-. an<l tiiin it 
 
 plaiff i\^ A'of the h(i-k\ coiiiit to the riKlit and uii- 
 ward, the same number of stripes as in the liack 
 from K to L and place upper end of side-form, to 
 the xiinie position of the phiid as point A of the 
 Back. ■' (See Fig. Ui. ) 
 
 I'lace the front as iiilicat.'d. with ui)per part 
 of the bust straight with si ripe. Notice the posi- 
 tion of the under-arm seam of the front, and in 
 cutting the under-arm I'onii. place this seam in 
 like position. (See Fig. Iti. » 
 
 i\oti<'e : In placing the back on the goods as 
 indicated it gives a taperiim e.^ect\a\\w form from 
 the centre of back down ; likewise with the front 
 from front of l)ust down to waist line'. This can 
 also )>e done in cutting striped goods. 
 
 Those using the .\,>. i will use pattern cut to the 
 traced linos to place on goods as ai)o\e. or turn the seam 
 of lining umier to traced line. 
 
in 
 
 HAl (HUMAN'S ADVAM t:i) tliyrs O.V DliKSS ( ITTJNG. 
 
 THE DRAPED PRINCESS. 
 
 SKK IIGURK I/. 
 
 Tliis iy cut by 
 placing the iin- 
 fler-ariii form so 
 that it ^'ivt's ;i 
 two iiK^h dart at 
 waipt of liont, 
 and so that the 
 waist line of the 
 under-anii form 
 is from U to 2'> 
 inch es below 
 tlie waist line of 
 front at H. de- 
 iJendiiiK upon 
 the amount of 
 fullness wanted 
 in the drapery 
 over the hip be- 
 low |)oint H. 
 
 To bring the 
 form up when 
 thus cut it also 
 takes up the 
 fullness which 
 naturally falls 
 ill front of a princess or polonaise. 
 
 MEDICI COLLAR. 
 
 THE SQUARE MEDIC COLLAR 
 
 si !■ |.|<;inr I. 
 
 First draw a rectangle 
 four inches high and the 
 length of half the size of 
 your neck measure, six 
 ini-hes for a tw^elve inch 
 neck. etc. as in Fig. I, a. 
 H, c, I). Now add out 
 and mark a point one 
 iiicli from I), tlien draw 
 the line a k from ]•_> to 
 1;") inches long, depend, 
 ing n|ion the length of 
 the collar desired. Draw 
 line (■ K with curve of 
 the s(juarrt. Then shape 
 l)a(k of collar likewise 
 with the curve of the 
 sciuare and the collar is 
 fiinished. 
 
 To obtain the cvw/ collar e.ffect. measure in 
 from A to x 'ii inches, cut a v and rcniml off as 
 indicated in Fiy. 1. 
 
 THE ROUND MEDICI COLLAR. 
 
 SKK KIcrKK II. 
 
 Draw- a rectangle as before, and the line a 
 M same as a k in No. 1. Then use the curve of 
 the square to round off the lines h m and n m. 
 Shape ba(^k of collar. 
 
 The line l.k m n is another style of the 
 round Medici collar and is obtained same as the 
 one just described, except it is four inches high 
 from line k to m n as per dotted line. Then hol- 
 low in as per line k to m. 
 
 THE STANDING COLLAR. 
 
 This is cut as per directions on the collar 
 guage, and the (corner is added if desired, with 
 edge of collar gouged. 
 
 Those using the No. 1, will use the dart rule 
 to draft the rectamjU, and shape the collars with 
 the ciDve fif the Hide-form, in cutting the Medici 
 Cdliir. 
 
 HOW TO BASTE. 
 
 This is something tiiat every person should 
 t'loroughly understand before taking up the art 
 of di'essmaking. 
 
 Nkvkk attempt to stit«Oi a garment before it 
 is properly basted. 
 
 Nkvkk attempt to baste the separate pieces of 
 the garment together, without having first \)yo\)- 
 erly tax'ked the lining on to the goods. 
 
 Never take the goods up from the table while 
 basting the lining onto the goods. 
 
 In tacking the lining on to the goods, always 
 hold the Iront of the lining full to the goods, from 
 the waist line, up about two inches. Hold the 
 lining full at front shoulder seam. Slightly full 
 the under-arm form and side-form at waist line, 
 also the (-enter back. 
 
 In basting the various piec-es of the garment 
 together, always have the w^aist lines marked 
 where the seams should meet, and before basting 
 pin these parts together at waist line first, then 
 ■stick pins about '2i to 8 inches apart on each traecd 
 line, so that the pin will come through <tli'i traced 
 line on opposite side. 
 
 In basting the curve of the back, hold the 
 side-form to you. This will necessitate basting 
 one from top down, and the other from waist up. 
 
IiA( (iHMAys AIHiSVKI* HISTS OA ItHESS ('( TTJNfi 
 
 II 
 
 111 l)astiii^ the shoulder seam, stretrli the 
 front to the back; or if this cannot be done, full 
 the back to the front. Always start at the neck, 
 and if you cannot make the seams exact, let the 
 diU'ereiHe be at tlie arms-eye, and trim off. 
 
 In IxistiiiK the darts, baste from the top down. 
 Nkver mark a waist line for the darts, unless you 
 measure down on either side and mark both sides 
 exact. This is very essential in the French Dart. 
 
 To fasten xtai/'i in the dress so as to avoid 
 wrinkles at H-aixt. first bend the stay outward at 
 waist, then fasten the ends to the goods. Now 
 press the center down to the goods and fasten it. 
 This naturally stretches the goods and avoids the 
 
 wrinkles so often caused by the stays. 
 
 In basting a Seamless Waist, Jit the lining Jirst 
 and then put the lining on to the goods/?///. 
 
 To give a dksiraiu.k kfkkct tlie goods should 
 always be cut folded on the bias, the same as the 
 lining. This gives the e.ifeet of length to the waist. 
 Plaid goods are the most desirable for this kind 
 of a basque. If solid goods is used, the basque 
 should ))e trimmed with gimp or narrow lace to 
 give this effect. 
 
 As a OKNERAL RULE and especially for silks 
 and velvets, cut the linings A inch longer than 
 the measure, and full the half inch to outside. 
 
 OK^s F]R A I. 1 ) I H FX Tl OInTS. 
 
 1. Each cut in this book is represented by 
 figures 1, 2, 8, etc. 
 
 '2. Never read the directions without fre- 
 qw^ntlii referring to the cut mention+'d. 
 
 ■'>. Everii letter used separatelij. as A and B, 
 etc. in these instruction, can be found on the cut 
 referred to in the directions, and are there to help 
 yoii locate that particular point or seam. 
 
 4. Never read over a letter without seeing 
 where it is found on the cut, and what it means. 
 
 T). Remember tlie Ad.iustable Tailor System 
 is set to actual measure, and is always the shape of 
 a perfect fitting pattern for the form whose meas- 
 ure is taken. Remember that with it and the as- 
 
 sistance of the square and (-ollar-guage, you art- 
 able to cut any style of a ladies' dress, from the 
 collar to the skirt, and do it easier than with any 
 other system ever invented. 
 
 To those using the Improved No. 1 Gtlove- 
 Pitting Garment Cutter, we wish to say, that 
 you will find nothing that is its equal for the price. 
 The square and collar-gua^e are combined in the 
 dart rule. The extended curvature is found in the 
 side-form, so that you are enabled to cut any style 
 of dress fashion may dictate. 
 
 Nearly everything in this book may be cut 
 from the System direct, after you learn to use the 
 cut pattern first. 
 
12 
 
 BAUGHMAN'S ADVANCMO HINTS ON DRESS CUTTING. 
 
 TnOUR Improved System we do away with subtracting the waist size 
 JL from the bust, thus giving each form a model dart; we also separate 
 the under-arm form from the front, and the side-form from the back. 
 This enables us to cut the French Bias and Worth Darts easily, and 
 makes the System more complete for rapid work. 
 
 For those desiring our old System we still keep a supply on hand. 
 
 F^F^IGH] LIST 
 
 -ov — 
 
 BAUGHMAN'S 
 
 GLOVE-FITTING GARMENT CUTTER, 
 
 HkdPK-OVED ISTo. 1 
 
 1(5.00 
 
 One Cutter with Instruction Book and 
 oral lesson,^ 
 
 One book of Advanced Hints on Dress 
 
 Cuttinff 50 
 
 Ora/ lessons on all French styles 2.50 
 
 -OK- 
 
 BAUGHMAN'S 
 
 ADJUSTABLE TAILOR SYSTEM. 
 
 One Adjustable Tailor System with In- 
 struction Book and oral lessons 
 
 One book of Advanced Hints on Dress 
 Cuttinff 
 
 Oral lessons on all French styles 
 
 * 10.00 
 
 50 
 2.50 
 
 M I S( \KIA .ATST KOT ^K .\ RTJC'I.KS. 
 
 ( )ne Tracing Wheel, post-paid ..'{5 
 
 One I'ape Line ] <fe . 25 
 
 One Pinking Iron .85 
 
 Agents wanted. ^: ^'\' "^^ '"°^* ''"r" *'7'n° °"<: 
 
 J. V— ^— ' agents; also give reduced rates to DRESS 
 
 MAKERS buying in large quantities to furnish apprentice girls. Our 
 Systems are new, yet the territory is being rapidly taken. Prompt at- 
 tention given to all orders. 
 
 Write for terms, enclosing a two cent stamp, to 
 
 138 S. Sixth Street. 
 
 Burlington, Iowa. 
 
1 
 
•^ 
 
 
 J 
 
 •^ 
 
 BAUGHMAN'S 
 
 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 011 020 379 2 
 
 Glove-Fitting Garment Cutter, ImproYed No. 1 
 
 BAUGHMAN'S 
 
 Adjustable Tailor System. 
 
 AGKNTS \VANTK1>. — KNCLOSE A TWO (;KNT SITAMP AND 
 ADDRKSS AM. ORDKRf* TO 
 
 J. s. B-A.xjGHi:M:^3sr, 
 
 No. 138 S. Sixth Street, Burlington, Iowa. 
 
 ^ 
 
Hollinger Corp. 
 pH8.5 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
 
 Hollinger Corp. 
 pH 8.5