'> V" A '^o \"' A^"^ ^'/>. 0' V I /) X .0- ^^. -X V ^.. ,,^ is^ iN" ^A V^' -- ^K^^ -s'^ "f, . ^ •■ -0- •^^a;v .N^ ^ ^;^ ■X" - B^ ? I ■\ \ 1^"^' <^^ C ■■T'- i5^ Sjir^'^ o o' A' r> 'j ^."^ '^ '/^ -f » <; ^' ^H v\ "^^ v^ -V c,^ FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ®N^ Mrs. Jui.es Gutkribge FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN BY MRS. JULES GUTHRIDGE New York and Washington THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY 1910 Copyright, 1910, by THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY ©C! A259892 PREFACE During the Spring of 1903 President Roosevelt appointed a Commission to go abroad and interest the great Powers of Europe in a movement to put the finances of China on a gold basis. The members of the Commission were Hugh H. Hanna, Charles A. Conant and J. W. Jenks. Of this Commission my husband was First Secretary. In Europe we were joined by a Commission representing the Republic of Mexico, headed by the distinguished econo- mist and banker, Enrique C. Creel. His as- sociates were Edward Meade and Luis Ca- macho. The Joint Commission visited many im- portant Capitals, extending its journey as far east as St. Petersburg and Moscow. This modest little journal, written from notes miade at the time, contains in brief phrase my personal experiences of the trip. Mrs. Jules Guthridge. From Capitol to Kremlin May iGth. We left Washington this morning for a four months' trip over-sea. The last scene our eyes rested upon was the stately Capitol building with its beautifully proportioned dome glittering in the sunlight of an ideal spring day. During our absence we shall visit many European cities, our trip extending as far east as Russia. May igth. We are sailing for Plymouth this morning on the North German Lloyd steamer Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse, after a stay of three days in New York. The voyage begins well. The sea is calm. The day is perfect. The vast ship is crowded. Every one is bent on being the first to get aboard. People are go- ing hither and thither searching for friends for last good-byes. When our belongings were installed in our state-room, we hurried on deck to see the ship pull away from her moorings. At a quarter past ten came the final clanging call, accom- 7 FROM , CAPITOL TO KREMLIN panled by the words, " All ashore that's not going," and in a little while we were steam- ing out of the harbor, to the cheery strains of two bands of music, one on the dock, the other on the ship. Our last look behind showed us myriads of handkerchiefs waving adieux. They seemed as hundreds of sea-gulls fluttering their white-winged good-byes. After we had sailed out into the sea, we found our chairs comfortably cornered. By this time all had become a laughing, jesting party, many of whorrt^ no sooner laughed than they scowled, for Neptune already had them in his clutches. Out into the sea we sailed, with five days before us of a dolce-far-niente time, to won- der who every one was, whence he or she came, and all the other whences that a sea- trip finds for the curiously inclined. Night came, covering sky and sea with a violet veil, and soon we were wrapped in dreamless sleep. Before I close this chronicle of to-day's events I must relate an incident, at first dis- quieting, but with an agreeable denouement, that occurred shortly after luncheon. We had returned to our state-room to adjust the 8 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN various articles of our toilet which we neg- lected to do at the time of starting. To our surprise, all our luggage, down to the smallest detail, was missing, and in its place were the traveling articles of another person. We were expressing our surprise at the occur- rence, when a lady in the adjoining state- room informed us that one of the stewards had made the change during our absence on deck. My husband pressed the button, and a steward instantly made his appearance. In answer to our queries, he said the change had been made at the Purser's suggestion; and, he added, with a significant smile, we doubtless would be pleased when we saw our new quar- ters. He was quite right, for the state-room to which we had been transferred was much larger; better lighted, and — a great considera- tion also on ship-board — directly amidship where the roll of the vessel was least percept- ible. Our original state-room, was a rather modest affair. The state-room the Purser gave us was one of the best on the boat. The mystery attending the transfer was not explained until our return to America. Then we learned that it had been made at the request of Mr. Gustav Schwab, manager of 9 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the North German Lloyd Co., at New York, who had instructed the steward to give us the most comfortable state-room that was not occupied after the ship left the dock. At an early hour the next day we were all in evidence, in a smiling mood. Somehow the breakfast did not appeal to me, so I sought my chair on deck, and calmly bided my time to pay my tribute to the sea, which happily was not collected. How suggestive of comfort to be tucked in your steamer chair, to have breakfast served in your lap ! The dinner ! How proudly I walked to my place for that first dinner ! May list. A BRIGHT day until sunset when there were evidences of an approaching storm, and an- other day was wrapped in old ocean's wet blanket. May 22nd. A GRAY day. I had determined to have a good promenade this morning before seating myself; but when I looked down the long line of sea-struck passengers, I lost little time in getting to my chair, where I hoped the vaga- ries of the sea (for she has many) would leave me undisturbed, and she did. 10 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN May i^rd. We awakened to find a strong wind, and the ship ploughing through a heavy sea; but this did not prevent us from going on deck, where we found everything wrapped In mist, and the passengers presenting a bedraggled and uncomfortable appearance. May 2^th. We were aroused early by the band calling us to be up and doing, as this was our last day before landing. All luggage was ready. The entire time was spent on deck until din- ner, for which all prepared to look their best, and they did. No sooner had the trumpet sounded, when the passengers began a move- ment to the dining-saloon. In a short time every seat, even mine, was filled. The flower- bedecked tables were decorated with sou- venirs. Before dessert was served, a unique scene occurred. Suddenly the lights were ex- tinguished, leaving the saloon in total dark- ness. The band In the gallery began a spir- ited air, and into the darkened saloon came the waiters filing two by two, all wearing white aprons and white jackets. Some bore dishes filled with fantastically designed ices; others, platters on which rested blocks of Ice. II FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN In the center of these rose lighted candles of different shades. Other waiters carried Japanese lanterns of unique design. When they had made a tour of the saloon three times, a lantern was suspended over each table. With the ices \^ere served tiny Ameri- can and German flags for the ladies who, on receiving them, placed them effectively in their hair. Suddenly loud calls of " Captain ! Cap- tain ! " rose above the chatter of conversa- tion, and in response, the huge form of the ship's commander, his face wreathed in smiles, and blushing like a school-boy, was projected into view. He spoke in cheerful strain, felicitating himself upon the high quality of the passengers intrusted to his care, and the pleasant voyage they had made. It was such a speech as one would expect from; a bluff, hardy mariner, who was more famil- iar with ocean currents and steam-navigation, than with the rhetorical flourishes of the pro- fessional orator. But what he said came straight from the heart, and was delivered in admirable English. A vigorous hand-clap- ping followed his remarks, and this, in turn, was followed by a popular German ballad, sung in the words of the Fatherland by all 12 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the passengers of German descent. " Amer- ica," in the singing of which everybody joined, came next. Then the band played. Other speeches, some witty, all interesting, were made. Shouts of laughter filled the room, the occupants of each table trying to make more noise than the occupants of the score or more of other tables. The spirit of cama- raderie was in the air, and every face beamed with merriment and good cheer. Suddenly the ship's bell pealed the hour of midnight, and lo ! land was but a few hours away. May 25th. This morning, the morning of the sixth day, we rode into sun-kissed Plymouth. What a wonderful tonic, the sight of land, after even a short sea-voyage! Men, who for days looked like tramps, shone resplend- ent the last day in natty cloth suits and silk hats, or derbys. Women whose hair had the appearance of sea-weed, come forth in puffs, pompadours and the latest trottoir-suits, plainly showing that the agony was over. No sooner had we stepped ashore when an excited search for luggage began. Thanks to the excellent discipline of the porters it was soon in readiness for the customs officials, 13 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN whose examination was perfunctory to say the least. All our traveling articles were in good shape except a huge, protecting strap covering our largest trunk that appealed for- cibly to some one who could not resist it. And he did not. Then came the hurrying for our " wagon-lits," which had been re- served, and In a short time we were en route to London. 'Twas one of the days when England wore her sunniest smiles. Not a drop of rain marred the beautiful landscape, as on and on the train sped, as if realizing our eagerness to reach the great metropolis by day. We did not go too fast to enjoy our first view of the Devonshire country, a rural pet and pride of England, lovely in its ex- quisite greenness. England has many such scenes, which, like jewels, differ only in the setting. Just before reaching London, Windsor Castle, crowning its memorable hill, and pre- senting a scene indescribably beautiful, ap- peared in view. We were fortunate to have our first glimpse of Windsor on an early May day, for at this season England's nature is in her freshest and most pleasing mood. Then came London — London of the dull tones. London of dark, dense fogs. Lon- 14 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN don of " waifs and strays." London of rich and rare historic interest from time long agone down to this commercial and grasping age. It was night when we entered Paddington station, and in a short half hour we were at the Cecil, where we are to stay several weeks. Does London sleep? No! its lights are never dim. Its streets are never deserted. They teem by night, as by day, with myriads of unfor- tunates to whom life is a bitter jest; a cruel mockery. And to bed we went, to dream, no ! to fear that the dawn would be a London dawn. The dawn came, and it was sun-wrapped London that we beheld, and not the typical London of fog and rain. May 26th. How good it seemed to get out on the streets once more, and to know that there were weeks of historic sight-seeing before us; to leave nothing undone, from the ragged tots of Petticoat Lane, with their surround- ings of squalor and misery, to the palatial homes and liveried lackeys of Mayfair. From the tangle of vehicles in the Strand we select an omnibus whose destination is the 15 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Bank, and climb to the top, letting not a sin- gle incident or quaint character escape us. The coster-carts claim our principal attention, for the coster-cart is one of the quaintest fea- tures of English traffic. It is small, and shaped like a miniature boat, and is drawn by a tiny donkey, hardly the size of a Newfound- land dog. Quite frequently a man and a woman, hitched together, furnish the motive power. The sight of these carts and the odd-looking persons that drive them re- minded us of the " coster " songs that Cheva- lier used to sing in vaudeville in our country a few years ago. One of these songs nar- rated the circumstances of a quarrel between two costermongers, ending with the refrain " It wasn't so much just what he said, as the nasty way he said it." As the fragments of their conversation floated toward us, it was quite easy to believe them familiar with every " nasty " shade of expression, better fitted to bring on a rough and tumble fight than the words themselves. You may know that the donkey is to Lon- don what the dog is to Antwerp. When the carts they draw are filled with flowers, they seem as little moving gardens, and are equally pleasing to the eye when filled with i6 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN vegetables. Each little patch is divided by a hedge of green, and the ensemble makes an artistic picture. How much the moving mass of London humanity recalls scenes and incidents which Dickens and Thackeray and other delineators of English life and character have given us! 'Tis true, many old types of character and quaint land-marks have passed away; but much of absorbing interest still remains. On we rode until we reached the " old lady of Threadneedle street," as the Bank of Eng- land is called. Then we returned to the hotel for luncheon, spending the afternoon indoors, resting from the fatigue of the voy- age, and getting ourselves in shape for a strenuous day to-morrow, the celebrated " Derby day.'' May 2'jth. London has awakened on Derby morning. 'Tis all England's day. And such a day! My first impulse was to run to the window to see if the sun or the rain was to rule. I beheld a beaming sun, and by ten o'clock we were seated all on a tally-ho, with a red-coated driver, and a red-coated trumpeter, bound for Epsom Downs. Have you ever tried to give the trumpet 17 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN call? I tried, and after twisting my tongue into the various curves suggested by the trum- pets, and breathing to bursting, I failed to get the slightest sound, and gave up the at- tempt before it gave me up. We drove out of the city, through hedged lanes, and over arbored roads, with a bewildering beauty of landscape, crowded with blossoming, sweet- smelling hawthorne trees. As we left the city behind us, we caught, at short range, our first real glimpse of English rural life. There is something peculiarly restful about the out-door life of England. The picturesque cottages with their thatched roofs, the varl-colored flowers growing about them, and the quiet hum of industry, make a picture of domestic quiet that is lacking In our own country, where the spirit of unrest and unsatisfied longing has become a national characteristic. A little later we found ourselves sur- rounded by a motley array of vehicles and all bound In the same direction. All London was apparently on wheels and In its highest spirits. All classes Intermingled on the hap- piest terms. It was Indeed a gala day, a red- letter day In the English sporting calendar. As we bowled along, groups of children, ver- i8 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Itable Dickens children, ragged and bare- footed, accosted us with cries of " throw out your mouldy coppers," at the same time run- ning beside the tally-ho with eager, expectant look, and palms none too clean, outstretched to catch the coveted coin. The phrase ^' mouldy coppers " was new to us; but its very novelty added to the incident, and seemed to fit in with the quaint character of the surroundings. The congestion of vehicles and people gradually increased, and we were compelled to stop for a while at the Eagle Horn Tav- ern, which is at the foot of the downs, to rest, and feed our tired horses, before moving on. Occupying the box-seat as I did, I had an un- obstructed view of our surroundings. Sud- denly the driver gave a click of the whip, up the downs we rushed, a guard in advance of us, his hands flying to right and left, scatter- ing the densely packed crowd, and faster and faster plunged our four horses as if they were expected to win the " Derby." They did win the top of the downs in fine form. Then began a winding in and out among the thou- sands of vehicles surrounding us, for a good location, that showed our driver to be a very Napoleon of a whip. This gained, little 19 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN time was lost in detaching the horses from the tally-ho and feeding and resting them preparatory to their long journey London- ward. By this time every Inch of ground as far as the eye could see was packed with vehi- cles, from the pea-nut venders' carts to the stately coaches. A feature of Derby-day, unknown to our own race-tracks, Is the license given to a cer- tain class of vaudeville actors, negro min- strels and others, engaged in plying their vo- cation, for a consideration of course. The men with black faces cracked their jokes, sometimes at the expense of our neighbors, and sometimes at ours, passing slowly from vehicle to vehicle, and, where their efforts to amuse were successful, shaking a tambourine before their auditors for their expected re- ward. As they turn away, there is a sudden burst of laughter, and, stalking through the crowd on stilts of exaggerated length, comes a clown with painted face and white costume, the people scattering good naturedly before him. At the same moment a woman, dressed gypsy fashion, appears at your side and offers to tell your fortune for the insignificant price of a shilling. From out of all the noise and confusion around you, rises occasionally the 20 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN voice of a woman, fancifully attired, singing the latest music-hall production, or an old- time English or Scotch ballad so dear to the hearts of these people. It was all very de- lightful. Across the turf were the club houses densely packed with people, including the King and Queen, and such other persons of distinction as were privileged to be so near •the finish; for the horses did not start at this point, but a good half mile farther up the track. The King and Queen, with their royal following, occupied seats specially re- served for the occasion. The English King, or the " great white King " as he is called by the swarthy tribes of Africa, is well worth a brief description. He is about sixty-five years old, and rather under the medium height. He inherits his short stature from his mother who, also, was short. He is stout, and in- clined to corpulency. His bluish-gray eyes are markedly prominent. He is said to be partial to Americans, and he is a good friend of America, as was Queen Victoria, that rare type of wife and mother, and greatest of women rulers. So I have nothing but good words for this distinguished gentleman, con- summate diplomat and far-seeing statesman. 21 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Popular with the people in his youth, he is, if possible, more popular at his present period of life. May his reign be a long and a happy one ! The Queen, for her years, is remarkably young looking. She has the bearing of a high-bred woman. She has a pleasing face, what women call a " sweet" face. She is of medium height, quite slender and graceful. She wears her hair as one has been accus- tomed to see it for years, in photographs of her. She walks with a perceptible limp, using a cane as a support. I should call her a pretty woman; but not a great beauty. Her face is a fine index of her character, and it reflects the agreeable personal qualities that have made her so popular with the English people. Queen Alexandra is of Danish birth, and was reared, from all accounts, in the severe school of self-denial, with rare indulgence only in those extravagances that are now re- garded as the commonest pleasures of the nouveau-riche. Before her marriage to the Crown Prince, the British people were pre- pared to give her a generous reception, for they possessed full knowledge of her modest and gentle virtues. Tennyson voiced the 2.2. FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN popular verdict in a poem written by him to celebrate the event, beginning: '^ Norman, Saxon, Dane are we. Yet we are all Danes in our welcome to thee!' How different the English race course from ours ! The English track is grass-cov- ered and sloping, so that horses and riders look as if they would roll over any minute. My friends at home tell me I have extraordi- nary luck on picking winners, and my luck did not desert me on this occasion. I reserved my bet for the race of the day — " the Derby." For this race there were five entries, one of them being an English-bred horse owned by his majesty the King. The King, as I have said, is tremendously popular with his subjects; but his popularity did not extend to his horse which sold well down in the pools. I placed my money on the French horse D'Urbeville, at odds of five to one, and he proved an easy winner. When the money was handed me I made a mental reservation that my winnings should be used to buy a souvenir spoon to add to my collection of like articles at home. 23 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN I did buy one In London. The bowl of the spoon is stamped with the face of the late Queen Victoria. The handle is tipped with a rose, emblem of England. At noon the scene resembled a huge circus and picnic combined. Tables spread here and there were filled with ham, chicken, sal- ads, sandwiches, soda, champagne and many other delicacies. Coaching parties were served from the tops of coaches, and none went hungry, apparently, yet there were many to beg and food to spare. Suddenly, roar upon roar breaks upon the excited people. "They're off! " shouts every throat. Instantly thousands of faces are turned in one direction like the heads of geese upon the common. Finally, amid cheers, waving of hats and sticks, flutterings of handkerchiefs, and — the Derby is won. 'Twas a sight to stir the emo- tions and gladden the eyes. Then began the puzzle of getting away safely from the winding " downs," and through the great congestion of vehicles and " tooting " of horns. Soon all that remained of the former animated scene was orange peel, waste-paper, and a great stretch of trampled turf. 24 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN May iSth. A morning stroll on the strand was short- ened by evidence of an approaching storm. This afternoon we had our first glimpse of social life In the great metropolis, at a small tea given in our honor at the home of Mr. Henry White, first secretary of the American Embassy. Upon our arrival the door opened as if by magic, and within stood, what seemed to me, three dummies; but a slight dip of the head proved them to be human. They re- tained their rigid attitude. Neither of them offered to take our wraps; but left that deli- cate attention to ourselves. That was a shock that did not prove serious, however, so on we gently tripped up the handsome red- carpeted stairway, to the drawing-room, where we found our host and hostess and their attractive young daughter, Miss Muriel White. The house, as we entered it, seemed to be filled only with space, so little furniture and bric-a-brac was to be seen. In the drawing- room, what furniture there was, was fixed against the wall. The only picture on the wall was a rare painting of Lady Hamilton standing out with a particularly brilliant color effect from a back-ground of white. At one 25 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN end of the drawing-room was a beautifully appointed table filled with delicacies, chiefest among them the English strawberry, which is difficult to excel in size or flavor. We were supposed to remain a half hour, at which time we were politely escorted from the drawing-room to the front door, where our carriages awaited us. Away we rattled over the stony streets to our hotel, all smiles, that even three dumb attendants could not chase away. And that was our first glimpse of London society. May I'jth. The event of the day was a long tramway ride about the edges of London, if London can have edges, as it seems to go everywhere the country around, and is so full of rich and rare beauties. Many of its roads are market- lined, that is, both sides of the streets for blocks are filled with small stalls, canopy- covered, each stall vieing with the other in its artistically arranged fruits or vegetables. In all foreign markets the women sellers pre- dominate, and make picturesque figures with their quaint dresses and caps. May 20th. A sun-wrapped day. After a ride on top of a stage (as he who rides otherwise loses 26 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN much of the life and movement of London's busy thoroughfare), down the streaming Strand, through Friday Street, Pilgrim Lane, Fetter Lane, Distaff Lane, Bishops Gate Without, Bishops Gate Within, and up the Strand again, where we found our way to " Ye Cheshire Cheese Inn," the rendezvous in years agone of Sam Johnson, Oliver Gold- smith, and m^any other literary lights long since extinguished by Father Time. After a luncheon of chops, cheese and beer, we strolled Into the " court," which Is bounded by a few ancient houses Including those of Oliver Goldsmith and Sam Johnson, with the Cheshire Cheese Inn but a few feet away. As you enter the dark and dingy Inn, you wonder where you will eat. You are ushered into a long, narrow " grill " room with a very low celling, and sawdust-covered floor. There Is the same old " settle " In the corner by the huge mantel, where Goldsmith and Johnson were wont to sit and enjoy their pipe and ale, surrounded by their convivial friends of Grub Street. May 315/. Down the Strand again we went, this time in a hansom, as we wished to satisfy our curi- osity in seeing the hard-visaged people who 27 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN dwell among the narrow, tortuous streets of Whitechapel. The air of the place was that of an auction day, rather than that of a Sunday. We went through all the lane-like streets of Petticoat Lane, St. Mary's Axe, Houndsditch, Spitalsfields and White Horse Street which were crowded with all ages from the tiny tots in their ragged mothers' arms, to the gray-haired men and women whose lives seemed to have been steeped in vice, so blear-eyed and hardened they appeared. One scarcely dared be caught looking at them curiously, for fear of rudeness, as the sight of a well-dressed man or woman seemed to send the rapid fire of anger to their faces. A more ruffianly-looking crew than the most of the men would be difficult to find outside of a penitentiary. They seemed fitted for rob- bery, aye, murder. The curious stranger who visits this region of quaint, dirty, poverty-laden, stall-lined streets, and of evil reputation at night, and alone, often furnishes the subject of a police item in the daily newspapers, under the title of " mysterious disappearance." It is safe enough to visit Whitechapel as a member of a party, piloted by a member of the police force, but not otherwise. 28 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN In Whitechapel, a veritable clothes-mar- ket of Lazarus, there seems little, If any, dif- ference, between the brute-woman and the brute-man. A policeman may be seen now and then on a corner, to act as a safeguard. His presence Is respected by every one. There Is no weapon In his hand. The Lon- don police are known the world over as splendidly disciplined, perfect In dress, and polite and courteous, ruling crowd and traf- fic, no matter how congested, with the Index finger alone. When that finger goes up, traf- fic Instantly stops, not to be resumed until another signal. The London policeman Is truly a guardian of the peace, and his record at headquarters Is based, not on the large number of arrests, but on the smallness of them. Without himi the street traffic of this greatest of cities could not move. Under his guidance It flows steadily, and — If I might use the term — serenely. No vehicle of either high or low degree would dare to disregard his Injunction to stop, or proceed, as the case might be. To do otherwise, would be to pay a heavy fine and to forfeit the driver's license. Yet the London " bobby," like all his race, is ever on the lookout for a tip. He knows that you are an American the moment you 29 Y FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN speak, and he beams on you with all the good- nature of a " cousin " who expects a gratuity in return for his assistance. It is difficult at first to understand him, for he scatters his h's about with a reckless disregard of the rules of orthography, and he invariably pro- nounces the letter a like an /. As you move away you hand him two pennies which are equal to four American cents. He smiles approvingly, touches his hat politely, and drops the coins into his capacious pocket. Fancy giving a New York policeman four cents for his information! You would be lucky to live long enough to tell the tale. In our wanderings about town to-day, we found ourselves at one o'clock at Greenwich. Here we luncheoned at the Old Ship Tavern, a hostelry long celebrated in English song and story. Greenwich Is the seat of the Royal Ob- servatory, founded in 1675, from the merid- ian of which English astronomers make their calculations. The correct time for the whole of England is settled here at i p. M. After luncheon we strolled about the quaint town, and seeing an imposing build- ing, inquired of a lad, what it was. He re- plied, " It's a 'orspital for s'llors." Finally it 30 FROM ' CAPITOL TO KREMLIN dawned on us that it was a hospital for sail- ors, our difficulty in understanding the young- ster being due to the cockney habit, as I have previously explained, of pronouncing their a^s like i's, and dropping their aspirates. After this experience we mounted the top of a stage and rode back to London, through Old Kent road, with its little gray houses labeled " an- cient lights." A unique wooden sign on the front of one of the little houses struck me as very curious. It was that of a camel, surmounted by a large cross, and a figure representing Christ. As I could find no one to explain this strange sign, it still remains a mystery. June 1st. Again we went " slumming " to White- chapel through Petticoat Lane, Hugging Lane, Kissing Lane, Honey Lane, Iron Mon- ger Lane, and Cushion Court, greatly enjoy- ing the scenes and signs such as " Ye Old Silver Stew," of 1602, and "Ye Old Tofiee Shoppe " of High Hoburn, and other similar signs where the old Shakespearian houses, with their gabled and quaint windows, are a picturesque feature. June 2nd. We visited Westminster Abbey, time- 31 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN stained, with its royal burial vaults, and long series of monuments to celebrated men. It Is, Indeed, a Temple of Fame. An interment within Its walls Is considered the last and greatest honor that the Nation can bestow on the most deserving of her offspring. Some of the tombs therein, are those of Handel of the voice that charmed and gave cheeriness to the mariners of England; of Ben Jonson, with the words, " O Rare Ben Jonson !" cut In the pavement; Dr. Watts, the famous hymn- writer, with the inscription, '' All the world is my parish." David Garrick, commemo- rated In a life-size statue, Is represented as stepping out from behind a curtain that he opens with extended arms. Also that of John Gay, poet, whose Inscription by himself reads: ^^ Life is a jest, all things show it: I thought so once, now I know itJ^ Notable among many others, are those of Shakespeare, Tennyson, Dickens, and Glad- stone. Leaving the hall of tombs, we visited the chapel of Henry VII. On each side are carved choir-stalls In dark oak, beautifully executed. On entering, the eye is astonished 32 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN by the pomp of architecture and elaborate beauty of sculpture detail. The walls are incrusted with tracery and scooped into niches with statues of saints and martyrs. While in the Abbey a guide politely described the Coronation scene, pointing out the throne with its carved high-backed chairs on which sit the King and Queen, and where I sat and reigned for a minute, and where sit the Royal family; the galleries where sit the lords and ladies, and the space allotted to the public, so that with the royal robes of state, and be- wigged and black-cloaked lords, and gor- geously gowned and bejeweled women, the ensemble was easily imagined. From Westminster Abbey we wended our way through lower, or old London, to enjoy the celebrated old home of Richard III, then known as Crosby Hall, built in 1466, by Sir John Crosby, and once occupied by the no- torious Duke of Gloucester, afterwards by Richard III. For a long time Crosby Hall was used for the reception of Ambassadors, and was considered the finest house in Lon- don. It became in turn a prison, a meeting- house, and a concert and lecture hall. It is one of the few existing relics of the mediaeval London, and the only one of the Gothic 33 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN style. Now it Is one of the most celebrated restaurants of London, and famous for Its perfect roasts. In many restaurants of Eu- rope It Is the custom to serve huge joints of beef or mutton from a good-sized table, on which rests a large platter containing the roasts. The roasts are wheeled from table to table, and you are served with a large or small piece as you desire. And so It was here at Crosby Hall that we luncheoned, after which we visited The Ship and Turtle Tavern, going later to what was In 1500 the home of Henry VIII and Cardinal Wol- sey. Few houses In London have had a more curious and checkered history than 17 Fleet Street, so long known to Londoners as the Palace of Henry VIII and Cardinal Wol- sey. The earliest authentic records show the building to have been acquired by James I as an office for the Duchy of Cornwall. For a long time Henry, Prince of Wales, used It as a town residence prior to his untimely death. The house Is said to have passed soon after from the possession of the Duchy of Cornwall, and was then turned Into one of the coffee-houses for which Fleet Street be- came famous. Later the building was the scene of a wax-work exhibition. Latterly 34 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the premises were used by a hair-dresser. The house Is one of the few specimens of the late Tudor architecture, left by the great fire of London, which ceased Its ravages within a few feet east of It. June 2,rd. I visited the National Gallery of Art, where one can spend days and days enjoying the master-pieces of Rousseau, Reynolds, Van Dyke, Greuze, Gainsborough, Watteau, Ra- fael^, Murillo, Lawrence, Romey, Titian, D'Aublgne, Turner, Landseer and others. After this feast of Art, taking as It did the greater part of the day, I was glad to return to the hotel to rest my stiffened neck and tired ankles before going to dine at the Carleton, London's most exclusive hotel. A feature of such London hotels Is the gilt-gartered flunky who stands at the entrance to direct you. If you are In full evening dress, he patroniz- ingly passes you within the portals, where others pass you on to the dining-hall. If you are not in full evening dress he treats you with unutterable Indifference, in fact he as much as tells you to move on, and on you move, but you are very careful to see that there is no gilt-gartered flunky to bar your entrance to the next restaurant. 35 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Once within the Salle-a-manger of the Carleton, the scene is that of a great banquet hall where men and women, comme il faiit in the matter of dress, make a striking ensemble. Here, one sees the British people at their best. No loud talking is heard; a quiet dignity per- vades the room, and you are in the company of that most satisfying element — rich or poor — the well-bred. It was at the Carleton we dined to-night with Mr. Enrique Creel* who was host of a dinner party. June 4.th. When passing St. Paul's Cathedral to- day, I sauntered through the little graveyard beside it. Churches standing in the center of " God's Acre " are familiar to all who have traveled through England. Here I am' reminded that on a previous visit to England, we visited the oldest church on the Isle of Wight. It was St. Mary's church, dating from the year 700. Its small graveyard with its ancient tombstones lying at all angles like a witch's fangs was literally over-run with weeds, many of which we were obliged to push aside in order to see the inscriptions on * Since these lines were written Mr. Creel has represented the Republic of Mexico as Ambassador at Washington and is now serving as Governor of Chihuahua. 36 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the stones. Among them we found several that were grotesquely humorous. One of them read: Sacred to the memory of Thomas Williher, Pain was my portion Physick was my food, Groans my devotion Drugs did me no good. Christ my physician Knowing what was best, To ease me of my pain He took my soul to rest. Another read: In memory of Jane, Wife of Wm, Joloffe, died 1810. Look and see as you pass by As you are now so once was I, As I am now you are sure to be, Prepare for death and follow me. Now that I have gone back a few years to refer to a previous visit we made to England when we came across the epitaphs I have quoted, I might as well relate an Interesting circumstance connected with it. We crossed FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN frorm Southampton to Cowes on a delight- fully mild day In September, after some weeks spent on the Continent. We lunch- eoned at a fine old English inn a little off the main street. Later, while we were look- ing in the shop windows, we were approached by a horsey looking young man who, whip in hand, and touching his hat politely, asked us if we would not like to make a driving trip around the Island. He told us we could easily cover the distance In three days, and that the entire cost would be a pound a day. " Does this include your expenses and those of the horse? " queried my husband. "It Includes everything," said the horsey young man, — " everything except " — here he coughed slightly, and with a humorous twinkle of the eye, modestly added, " every- thing except a tip for the driver." A bargain was quickly made and we started from Cowes in a landeau In which his Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales, now King Edward, had been frequently driven. This gave a touch of interest. If not of softness, to the seats of the vehicle. Before starting on our drive, the coach- man, pointing with his whip, said, " Over there, across the river, is Osborne Castle, a 38 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN favorite castle of the Queen." It loomed above the heart of a forest. I said to the coachman, " Is the Queen at the Castle, and is it possible to see her? " He replied, " Yes, Lady ! the Queen will leave in three days for Balmoral. If we make our trip within that time and get back about this hour, we can see her taking her usual evening drive." I said, jubilant at the thought of seeing the Queen, " Cut the drive a little short, make good time, we must not lose the opportunity of seeing her." Assuring us that we should not fail to see the Queen, we hurriedly gathered our belongings, and in a little while were far ahead on our journey. Our first stop was at Freshwater, so free from general travel, that one does not won- der that it preserves so well its sweet and sim- ple charm of repose. At Freshwater lived the poet-laureate at that time. Lord Tennyson. The poet's house, set in a tangle of gnarled oaks and dense shrubbery, and surrounded by a high wall, was but a few hundred yards re- moved from the main street of the village. Here Tennyson lived almost a recluse. The villagers spoke of him with great respect, principally because of his literary fame; but 39 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN with little appreciation perhaps of his genius. He seldom appeared in the streets of Fresh- water ; in fact was seldom seen in the privacy of his own grounds, for he had a horror of strangers, and especially of Americans, who had not hesitated, on many occasions, auto- graph book in hand, to seek his presence. The Hotel Albion, where we stayed over night, was English pure and simple. It was kept by a charmingly dainty little widow, whose refinement was reflected in every ap- pointment of the inn. The appearance of the pretty maids in their quaint caps, and with pleasing manners, delighted us, for no- where in our own country can their counter- part be found. Their voices are sweet and musical, they speak in low tones; and with their fresh English complexions add a touch of delicate, living beauty to their quiet sur- roundings. We were furnished with the usual five o'clock tea shortly after our arrival, and this was followed by an exceptionally good din- ner two hours later. At the table d'hote we fell into conversa- tion with a Londoner, the president of a line of steamers plying between Liverpool and the Azores, and his clever and entertaining 40 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN wife. The conversation turned to the " float- ing palaces " on our inland waters, and espe- cially to the fine fleet of Sound steamers be- tween New York and Fall River. " How many passengers are these boats al- lowed to carry? " queried the Londoner of my husband. " Oh! just as many as can get aboard," re- plied the latter, with blunt American direct- ness. The Englishman threw his head back, and laughed so heartily that all the guests in the dining-room turned quickly in our direction. As his laughter subsided, he exclaimed, ^' That's a typical American answer. You are the most reckless people in the world." At nine o'clock one of the demure little maids, candle in hand, lighted us to our chamber, and her cheery good-night was still ringing in our ears when the slumber of night enveloped us. True to our coachman's promise, two days later we halted beside one of the main en- trances to Osborne Castle. At each of the four entrances stood a guard, dressed in crim^ son coat, white knee-breeches and black beaver with a broad gilt band about the crown. 41 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN It was near the entrance where we stopped, that we had hoped to see the Queen drive out. Alas! far down a beautifully wooded vista, we espied a brougham with white horses com- ing out of a gate. In a few minutes, a toss of the hand of the guard at that entrance showed us that the Queen had gone from there for her drive. Fancy our disappointment! We did not lose hope. A guard standing close by no- ticed our disappointment. To him I said, " We are Americans, and want very much to see Her Majesty the Queen." He rephed, " I hope you can. If you will drive to the three cross-roads, half a mile away, and wait there you will see her, as she has only gone to New Port to say good-bye to friends before leav- ing for Balmoral to-morrow." In a short time we were at the cross-roads. Every noise kept us on the qui-vive of expect- ancy. Finally, around a bend in the road, came a mounted lackey, followed by the Queen's carriage. With a ring of pleasur- able excitement in the coachman's voice, he hurriedly said, " Stand, sir and lady, in the carriage ! " So we stood as the royal car- riage with its distinguished occupants passed slowly, as the coachman, judging from his 42 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN twinkling eyes, realized our eagerness to see Queen Victoria. What we saw was this : A very old lady whose sombre attire was re- lieved by a single touch of color — a white scarf, folded in broad outline around the crown of her bonnet and knotted at the chin. She was accompanied by her young grand- daughter the Princess Victoria and one of the ladies in waiting. As her carriage came op- posite, the Queen, who sat In a half-reclining position on the back seat, gave us a keen, pene- trating glance out of a pair of shrewd-look- ing eyes. A moment later she had disap- peared; but we were happy In the thought that we had seen the most Illustrious ruler In all the world. Before leaving home I had read In a New York newspaper that the Queen's eyesight was failing, and that her physicians feared that she might become totally blind. Blind ! there was penetration enough in that glance for several pairs of good eyes. After the Queen had been driven far ahead of us, we drove back to our starting point, to reward the guard to whom we were indebted for so great a favor. As soon as he saw us, he ran with flushed face to our car- riage and exclaimed, " Oh, lady, did you see 43 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the Queen?" "Oh yes!" I replied. "I am so glad," '' So ami I ! " he said, and on to Ryde we drove, having completed our drive over the Garden of England, as is called the Isle of Wight. June ^th. This afternoon we were Invited and went to '' La Fourchelle," a constitutional club, a charming old aristocratic club of London. Its entrance is very imposing with Its walls in parts studded with mosaics, its broad red- carpeted stairway leading to Its several rooms fromf whose walls hang paintings of people and scenes connected with the club. After a chat on club life we were conducted to the tea-room, where, from a dainty tea- table, we were served with tea, sandwiches and strawberries, by a fine old gentleman whose name, I regret to say, I have forgotten. June 6th. We started for an early stroll down the Strand. It was about eight o'clock, and London seemed still napping. In a little while every by-way was a congestion of mov- ing advertisements, that is the " busses " so covered with advertisements of every color, that when a great number are bunched to- 44 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN gether they look like a huge circus caravan. The pleasure of a drive on top of them ! You feel as if you are literally swinging in the air. After mounting one this morning, I took a front seat where my feet were left to swing in space. In looking down in the cor- ner just below my seat, I discovered a great hole large enough for me to have easily dropped through. The driver, whose head was just below the level of the top of the stage, looked up on hearing my exclamation of fear, and said, " Lidy, have faith in me." As It was a question of faith, I let myself go, and greatly enjoyed the ride. June "jth. We went to St. Paul's Cathedral this after- noon to witness the special service of hospital Sunday. The King and Queen were to be present. With a natural desire to see them we went very early, yet at that time guards on foot and on horse were In evidence all about the Cathedral. Provided with special tickets, we were given seats in the second row from the front In the center aisle. We could have asked for no better place. It was not long before the great structure was filled to over- flowing — a veritable sea of humanity. Sud- 45 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN denly the organ pealed its mighty music, and outside could be heard distinctly the royal band as if in unison with the organ. There was a craning of necks, when the royal pro- cession came slowly down the center aisle. It was preceded by the King and Queen. Following them the Prince of Wales and Princess Victoria, the Duke of Connaught, his wife and 'daughters; Princess Beatrice, and lastly the Duke of Cambridge with tot- tering steps and bent form; covered with a long mantle of white bordered with scarlet. It was a fine opportunity to see the King and Queen. Not in royal robes, 'tis true, but none the less imposing. The King wore the conventional frock coat with dark trousers, carrying in his left hand his silk hat. The Queen was gowned In a very simple, close-fit- ting black wool dress, and on her head a small severely plain black bonnet. The service lasted about two hours. Every one remained seated until the King and the royal family had withdrawn, when the signal of music from without told that the proces- sion was leaving the Cathedral. We lost lit- tle time in getting out to see the moving pano- rama of royalty, soldiers, and the people who maintain royalty. 46 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN June Sth. The day was spent mainly In shopping. On entering the shops of London, one is espe- cially impressed with the appearance of the sales-women. In the large shops they are well-bred and courteous, with manners and bearing quite equal to those of the people they serve. Their hair is arranged with fashion- able effect, and they are gowned in black silk or satin, that fit to perfection their perfect figures. You cannot treat these people un- civilly — they will not permit it. Nor will their employers permit it. They give you every attention that the business demands, and they expect courtesy and respect in re- turn. I have seen them quietly withdraw from offending customers, whose brusque manners had wounded their feelings, and send another sales-woman to finish the trade. In less pretentious shops the women are equally polite, and more simply gowned. Their usual attire is a dress of black wool, the deep simplicity of which is relieved by a white muslin apron. June gth. To-night we attended the opera at Co- vent Garden where Sembrich, supported by an excellent company, gave a superb interpre- 47 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN tation of " Der Meistersinger." We occu- pied the box of Lord and Lady Dawkins. There was room in it for the ladies only. The men sat directly below in the parquette. Covent Garden for fifty years has been sacred to Italian opera. Within its walls have been heard every singer of renown during that pe- riod. The theater has a seating capacity of thirty-five hundred, and the acoustics are per- fect. It gets its name from the building that occupied the original site which was one of the many convents erected in England dur- ing the period of the Georges. June loth. It is raining to-day. We spent our time visiting the Wallace collection of beautiful jewels and paintings. Among the latter were many excellent examples of Greuze, Gains- borough, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Watteau, Mu- rillo, and Champagne. Where one sees so many paintings of rare merit as are here ex- hibited, it is difficult to say which has pleased one the most ; but if I were compelled to make a choice, I should decide in favor of Greuze of the dreamy eyes. I am not saying that it possesses greater merit than many of its com- panion pieces; but it impressed me more deeply than the others. 48 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN June I \th. Another rainy day. We were compen- sated for our enforced stay in doors, as we sat in the reading-room, facing the Thames, that celebrated river of dirt and story, by see- ing the King and his brilHant staff passing along the embankment, on their way to the opening of a new hospital. First came the guards with their brass helmets and waving plumes. They were mounted on black Hano- verian horses, and presented an imposing ap- pearance as they rode with soldierly dignity their slow-moving steeds. The spectacular effect of the occasion was heightened by the long cardinal cloaks worn by the riders which stretched from the shoulders in long graceful folds, almost covering the animals themselves. The King's carriage came next. It was drawn by four white horses with red trap- pings and outriders. Other members of the Royal family followed, and lastly came an- other detachment of red-cloaked guards. June 12th. Tate's Gallery was visited. After sev- eral hours spent In enjoying its valued collec- tion, we strolled down the Thames embank- ment. Our feet began to fail us when we In- 49 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN quired of a laborer, who was strolling in a lazy fashion beside his horse and cart, " How far is it to the House of Parliament?" he replied, " Look pleasant and smiling and you'll soon come to it," and we did. To-night we attended a reception given by the Marchioness Lansdowne at Lansdowne House. It was a long drive through the heart of London, via Picadilly Circus. The streets were all as bright as lights everywhere could make them, and two-wheelers (coupes) were speeding in all directions. We finally reached the grounds which were encircled by a high wall. Within the house the scene was one of extreme brilliancy. Beauty in the women was rare, but the brilliancy of their jewels could not be excelled. Coronets, tia- ras, crowns with collars and ropes of jewels to match, were worn on beautiful heads and swan-like throats, and frowsy heads and bony necks alike. Lady Lansdowne greeted us cordially. Notwithstanding the presence of several hundred guests, one could move with ease through the spacious apartments. I found the reception-room strikingly unique. The walls are pure white, with niches here and there filled with statuary. A huge crys- tal chandelier threw from the center of the 50 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN celling a white light over all the surrounding objects. The effect was most pleasing, as there was nothing to detract from the bril- liant, moving mass of guests assembled. Lady Lansdowne represents the highest type of social culture. Her popularity was evidenced by the large concourse of people that attended her reception. It was one of those affairs, given such a hostess, as occurs in London at rare intervals. It was intended to bring together those harmonious elements that constitute the world of high fashion in the great British metropolis, and we were fa- vored, indeed, to have been there. June i^th. Another rainy day. We spent it at the British Museum. There is much here to in- terest the antiquarian and the archeologist, and one can spend several days profitably in a study of its rich and varied treasures. Be^ fore our departure, an incident occurred that shows how deeply ingrained in the British fibre is the desire to be paid for services that, in this country, would be regarded as miere courtesies for which no payment would be ac- cepted. My husband wanted to see a file of the London newspapers of a hundred years ago 51 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN when journalism was still In its infancy. A trim-looking young fellow was assigned by the official in charge to get them. He was very courteous, and was manifestly a gentleman. When my husband had finished his examina- tion of the file, he handed it back to the young man with a brief " thank you," at the same time dropping his hand into his pocket — through force of habit, as I supposed. The young librarian pretended not to notice the action; but when it became evident that my husband intended to tip him, I shuddered with horror, and endeavored, with a depreca- tory wave of the hand, to discourage it. Dis- regarding my warning he drew out a hand- ful of coins and, selecting a shilling, handed it to the Englishman. I expected him to reject it with scorn and dramatically assert that, being a gentleman, his dignity was insulted. Greatly to my relief he ac- cepted the coin with a beaming smile and politely asked if he could do anything more for us. We declined his further assistance and strolled away. '' You make no mistake," said my husband, with the air of a mian who has solved a great economic truth, " in tipping anybody in this country," and perhaps he was right. 52 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN June 14th. We were guests to-day of our Mexican friends, Mr. Creel, Mr. Camacho and Mr. Mead. We took the train as far as Putney, where a boat, well canopied and prettily ap- pointed, was waiting to take us up the Thames, the ancient tide of business and pleasure. There were frowning clouds above us; but the sunny smiles of our entertainers overcame the dampness in store for us. The dampness made itself felt, however, and drove us at times from the deck to the cabin where the windows were sufficiently large to afford a glimpse of the country. This, with the stream with its narrow, graceful curves, its beautifully be-flowered house-boats and flower-embowered homes, made a moving panorama of continual and exquisite beauty. There is only one Thames, and all lovers of the beautiful should see it. One of its great- est charms is where it nestles among the slop- ing hills of Richmond, where, if you will stand on one of its banks at sunset, you will see, as far as the eye can reach, a succession of hills as level apparently as if planed, cov- ered with a haze of purple, gold and green perfectly blended. A generous luncheon was served shortly 53 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN after our departure, in the cabin; but the fates, alas ! were against us. The rain fell steadily, sometimes in feeble drizzles that en- couraged us to believe that the worst was over, and then, with scarcely a moment's warning, a furious downpour would send us scurrying again to the cabin. About three o'clock in the afternoon our hosts, discour- aged at the dreary outlook, stopped at Wind- sor, where we went ashore and returned to London by rail. Notwithstanding the rain the day was an enjoyable one, and It stands out in my memory as one of the ntost delight- ful experiences of our European trip. June i^th. A stage ride down the Strand to St. Helens, where Shakespeare was a parishioner. After leaving the church, I wanted to find a special shop for kid gloves, so I asked the first '' bobby " I saw if he would please direct me to Poultry street, as I knew if I found the street, the shop would be easily located. " Bobby " was a man fully six feet high, and he looked down upon me smilingly, at the same time saying, " Lidy [lady], you don't want Poultry street." " Yes I do ! " I re- plied. ^' No you don't," again smiling good- 54 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN naturedly. "Yes!" I again replied, "I want to find Poultry street. I am sure It Is near here; but I do not know just which way to turn." Unfortunately for me several business streets radiated from that point where I was struggling to find Poultry street. Finally the " bobby " said, " LIdy, you just want Poultry." " Ah, yes ! " I smilingly said, " just Poultry," and to Poultry he guided me. It was only a few feet away. I found the shop and the gloves I wanted, and went back to the hotel a wiser woman, because I had learned the difference between Poultry street and Poultry. June i6th. Devoted the day to rest. If there Is one who does not need rest In London, that little world In itself, one is indeed fatigue-proof. June lyth. The early morning was given to " slum- ming " again through Whitechapel. I was more than ever impressed with Its similarity to the East Side of New York, where live about the same class of foreign-born people with a like amount of squalor and dirt. Later we drove through residential Lon- don, of which Carleton Terrace, terraced 55 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN high as it is, and containing the homes of the best-known people of London, is the most attractive part. Conspicuous among the homes is that of the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, a stately edifice with great gardens, and flowering hedges of red and green. This description, now that I have written it, does not fully explain my meaning. English hedges In general, while well trimmed, and severely uniform In height, are of one color, green, though the hedge of holly is not Infrequently seen. But the hedge that Incloses the town house of the Duke of Marlborough differs from any other that I have ever seen. Thickly planted among the green, are pink roses, and the combination was harmonious and strikingly beautiful. The air about the place was flower-perfum:ed, and the intoxicating scent of the ensemble lin- gered on the atmosphere long after we had left the locality. We had some business at the bank which took us to the "city" again. Returning to the hotel our driver, pointing to a building, venerable with age, yet bearing all the appearance of a gloomy old fortress of ancient date, said with blunt English direct- ness, "Newgate!" Newgate! what a host of memories that sinister word evoked! 56 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN While yet a little girl I became acquainted with the famous old " highwayman " series of yellow-covered novels that my brothers used to read with breathless interest. They were, from a boy's standpoint, fascinating chronicles of such " Gentlemen of the Road " as Claude Duval, Dick Turpin, Jack Shepard and other adventurous spirits of Merrie Eng- land, of the stage-coach era. Such stories possess little attraction for girls; but the illus- trations, and the frequent appearance in them of Newgate prison, in which these bold blades spent no inconsiderable part of their time, were strongly impressed upon my memory. And so it was that I followed with interest the work of demolishing the old building, for a force of men were then engaged in razing it to the ground to make way for modern buildings, dedicated to the simple arts of trade and commerce. A little later we drove through Lincoln's Inn Fields, which is surrounded by lawyers' offices, and forms one of the largest squares in London. It was the hour of noon and a score or more of London legal lights, after a morning in court, were passing through the park to their offices. Their appearance was quite unlike that of the American attorney 57 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN who wears no special dress when attending the sessions of the court. The English law- yer, on the contrary, invests his professional work with all the dignity that a formal style of dress permits. He wears a long gown, reaching to the shoe tops, and on his head a white wavy wig falling on the shoulders. The somberness of his attire is relieved at the neck by a white stole. A few years ago, on a previous visit to the great world of London, we had our first glimpse of this park. We were visiting cer- tain places made famous by Dickens. Hard by Lincoln's Inn Fields was a modest little two-story frame building with a projecting roof, so low that one could almost touch it. It is supposed to have been the original of the Old Curiosity Shop, the home of little Nell, of sweet, but sad memory. The owner of the house divided his time between the sale of photographs of the premises, and souvenir books, descriptive of Dickens' characters, and the buying and selling of rags. He said the house was a Mecca for American tourists who felt that a visit to London would be in- complete without a glimpse, at least, of this famous place. He was an amiable old chap, of the English lower middle class type, who 58 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN bore with modesty the prominence that asso- ciation with the place had given him. Following us to the door and pointing to a house farther up the street he said, '' There's where Tulkinghorn lived — the house on crutcheSo" Naturally we were interested, for Dickens has drawn few, if any characters, that have impressed themselves more strongly upon the imagination than this shrewd old lawyer who finally wrought the undoing of the unhappy Lady Deadlock. It was a nar- row, three-story red-brick house. You enter the front door under a portico of white, sup- ported by pillars of sharply contrasting green. It was this portico, with its green pil- lars, that gave it the name of the " House on crutches," as it chanced to be the only house in that vicinity so designed. We were told afterwards that it was the home of John For- ster, Dickens' Intimate friend and biogra- pher. Lincoln's Inn Fields, aside from my personal experience of it, will be forever asso- ciated in my mind with a fanciful sketch, writ- ten years ago for one of our American maga- zines by Justin McCarthy, the Irish novelist and historian, entitled ^' Three Dream Hero- ines." The three dream heroines were Sal- lie, about whom Henry Carey wrote the fine 59 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN old English ballad, " Sallie in our Alley"; Tom Hood's " Fair Inez," and Poe's " Anna- bel Lee." Upon the two " heroines " last named, the Irish litterateur employed all the resources of his rich fancy and power of graceful expression. But, much as their dainty, ethereal personalities appealed to him, it is plain that " Sallie " appealed to him quite as strongly, though she represented a different type of character. As I recall the sketch, he classified his heroines under three heads — the Real, the Ideal and the Never More. Sallie, the author tells us, was a pretty young girl, slight in stature, with small features, red lips and brown hair. She was not so pretty as her lover thought her, and we all ought to be glad of this, for if he did not idealize her, where would be his love? Her lover be- longed in the same social stratum (he was apprenticed to a trade of some sort) ; was short and under-sized, and really a common- place young man of the working class. But to Sallie he was perfection. '' Sweet and sa- cred magic of love," as McCarthy puts it, " that can thus transfigure the homeliest crea- ture into a form of heroic sympathy and beauty! " 60 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN To him Sallie '' is the darling of my heart and she lives in our alley." He counts the time when shall arrive for both " The day that comes between Saturday and Monday " ; the day when they meet in Lincoln's Inn Fields for an afternoon together. Sallie is a trifle prim and frowns on any evidence of en- dearment in public. Nor will she enter the quietest-looking public house for a glass of beer, but goes instead to a little shop where penny ices are sold, and where her lover is quite free to smoke a ha-penny cigar. The unutterable dullness and depression of their trysting place does not affect them. Seen through the golden haze of their affection, it is an earthly Paradise and the dearest spot on earth. And here let us leave them. June iSth. The early morning was devoted to the Tower, the ancient fortress and gloomy state prison of London, which stands on the banks of the Thames. Though at first a royal pal- ace, it is best known as a prison. Here, as you enter, you see within the gate a quaintly attired guard. You find many such stationed throughout the buildings and grounds. They are known as the Yeomen of the Guard, and 6i FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN are old soldiers of meritorious service. They have also a nick-name, " Beef-eaters," which is commonly explained as a corruption of Buffetiers, or attendants at the Royal Buffet. The name probably originated from their well-fed appearance and from the fact that rations of beef are regularly served to them when on duty. Their dress consists of a long blouse of dark blue cloth, belted at the waist, with a gay-colored girdle. With this is worn knee trousers of the same cloth and long stockings with buckled slippers. The hat is an attempt at a top hat. The crown is broad and low, and the brim narrow and curlir;g close to the crown. A band corresponding to the girdle surrounds the brim. Historically, the Tower is the most inter- esting spot in all history. Many of Eng- land's great names are associated with it. It was here that the young and beautiful Anne Boleyn was imprisoned and executed. A large square stone in the court marks the spot of this and many other noted executions. Within its gloomy walls was once imprisoned, by order of her sister, " Bloody Mary," she who, afterwards, became one of England's noted queens, Elizabeth. Sir Walter Ral- 62 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN eigh, later, and by Elizabeth's order, was a prisoner also In the White Tower. The feature of special Interest to the women visitors Is the Wakefield Tower, which contains the Crown jewels, numbering among its valued collection Saint Edward's Crown; Queen Victoria's Crown, with not fewer than two thousand seven hundred and eighty-three diamonds and three hundred and ten other gems; the uncut ruby said to have been given to the Black Prince in 1367; a large sapphire which belonged to Edward the Confessor, and the Prince of Wales' crown of pure gold without precious stones. These, with many equally rare jewels, fill a huge case and attract great attention. To-night we are packing our trunks and to- morrow we shall start for Paris. We are leaving London regretfully. There Is no foreign city In which an American feels so much at home, as In this huge metropolis of the world. For, after all, there Is only one London. We shall always have a kindly feeling for the English people. We have found them uniformly courteous and polite, with the same appreciation of wit and humor that we Americans have arrogated exclusively to ourselves. The truth is, there Is little 63 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN difference between the Englishm'an of a cer- tain class and the American of the same class. And the American who does not feel at home here is a peculiar individual, indeed. The maid who has charge of our room came in a few minutes ago to say " good- bye ! " and, incidentally, to receive her tip. She is a Scotch lassie of graceful figure, with melting brown eyes, shaded by long, dark lashes. She is a strikingly pretty girl, of modest manners, and soft gentle tones. Her eyes filled with tears as we bade her " Good- bye," for she had been our attendant for a month. My husband handed her a sover- eign — five dollars in American money. She made a profound curtsy, and turning to- ¥/ard him said, " I am sorry, sir, that you and madam are going away. We seldom have such agreeable people to wait upon." She paused for a moment as if intending to say something more. The words, however, re- fused to come at her command. She was vis- ibly embarrassed. Then, feeling that she must say something, she exclaimed: "You are a perfect gentleman, sir." Then turning to me she added, " And so are you, madam ! " We were too considerate of Barbara's feel- ings to laugh at the faux pas in her presence; 64 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN but It will provoke many a smile In the future. June igth. En route to Paris. A journey by train brought us to Dover, where we took the boat to Calais. Here again came fresh Dickens memories. All my life I have remembered Dover as the home of the eccentric Betsy Trotwood, to whose sheltering arms David Copperfield fled for protection from his cruel step-father, the gloomy Murdstone. As we passed through the town a cosy little cottage looking out upon the sea attracted my atten- tion, recalling the description of Mrs. Trot- wood's home — " a neat little cottage with cheerful bow-windows; In front of It, a small square graveled court, or garden, full of flowers, carefully attended and smelling dell- clously." If I had had the time I should have liked to stroll about Dover, for It, like many other places In provincial England, holds much of literary and historic Interest. But this was not to be, for the current of my thoughts was broken a minute later by our arrival at the wharf where we boarded the boat for Calais. Dinner was served Immediately we left the wharf, and an excellent dinner It was. No 65 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN sooner was I served than I looked out of the port-hole, — why, I know not, as the sea was the last thing I wanted to see at that time, — and lo ! the tables had caught the spirit of the moving waves. A sudden lurch of the boat scattered things and people generally, and In the twinkling of an eye I found myself stretched on a lounge, covered with some man's rugs. I say some man's rugs, as on them lay an overcoat that I also appropri- ated. After turning comfortably on my back, I closed my eyes to shut out the sight of the man, who. If he should need his coverings, would surely not have the courage to rob me of what to me, just then, was so great a comfort. The channel ride from' Dover to Calais oc- cupies forty minutes ; but to the sea-sick trav- eler each minute Is an eternity. I am a wretched sailor; but on this occasion I found that many of my fellow-travelers, who prided themselves on their strong stomachs, were suffering likewise all the horrors of mal-de- mer. One of the exceptions was my hus- band, who strolled the decks as Indifferently as If we were sailing the surface of a placid river. I was not so 111 but that I observed 66 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN his movements, and I wished that he might share my illness for five minutes, so that he might have a proper sympathy with me. This may have been a malevolent wish ; but it was ^ .an. All this time the boat was plunging i rolling like an empty cask on a turbulent sea. The surf was breaking over the upper decks, and in all my experience I have never been so uncomfortable. About half way over my husband brought me a glass of gin- ger ale. It was very grateful to my sea- tossed stomach, and while I was drinking it, a steward approached us, and offered his serv- ices. My husband thanked him and, as the man started away, he remarked, '' Pretty rough trip, steward." The latter swept the foamy sea with a rapid glance, and non- chalantly responded, ''It is a bit nasty!" Nasty! the word doesn't half express it; it was vile, and I hope I shall never see its like again. And that was our experience from Dover to Calais, where we took the train for Paris. Beautiful France, the land of sun, of story, of romance and chivalry, was before us. France with its golden wheat-fields in which mingled scarlet poppies, and its beds of pop- pies entire, its artistic flower and vegetable 67 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN beds, Its road-sides close by the railway tracks with their garden-like effects, and the attract- ive rural homes with their red roofs and color- touched fronts, made a sweet and most rest- ful ensemble. Not an inharmonious note anywhere. Absolute cleanliness. No dilap- idated fences, not even a scrap of paper to mar the perfect picture. j^^^ ^o^/i. We are in la belle ville de Paris, le Paradis des femmes, home of the fine arts. Paris of ever-pleasant memories where one finds in its life a peculiar grace, fascinating ease and vi- vacity, for r esprit de societe is the special gift of the French. This is our second visit to Paris. Our first visit, made several years ago, was limited to a fortnight. This time we hope to stay longer. I should like to remain several months, for there is too much of interest here to see in hurried fashion. Descending to the court this morning, after a comfortable breakfast in our room, we yielded to the persuasions of the porter and took a victoria for a drive to the Bois. We found the Paris cocher no less interesting than on our former visit. Speaking of cochers, what a variety one finds here in Paris. There is the cocher who 68 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN is conspicuous in high, white glazed hat, with a red or yellow band on it. The collar and cuffs of his dark blue coat match the band of his hat, and his victoria, or cab, is invariably lined with material of the color of his coat. Other cochers wear black glazed hats and others again straw hats. If you are wise you will call the white-hatted cocher because he is always better dressed, and his vehicle is in keeping with his appearance. Then, too, his vehicle is better springed than are the major- ity, which is another consideration. With them all a generous smile means a generous tip ; so it is well to smile according to your de- sire, or ability to be generous. After resting and adjusting our belongings to our room, we drove through the Place de la Concorde, which is close by the Continental where we are staying. It is the most beauti- ful and extensive place in Paris, and one of the finest in the world. From the center of the square a view is obtained of the Made- leine, the Palais de la Chambre des Deputies, the Louvre and the Arc de Triomphe. Here, in 1792, the guillotine began its bloody work, and here were executed Louis XVI., Charlotte Corday, Marie Antoinette, Robespierre and many others of distinction 69 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN whose names are associated with that un- happy era. The Place de la Concorde Is bounded by the Seine, the Champs Elysees, and by the Garden of the Tulleries. Lighted at night, with Its twenty bronze rostral columns on the surrounding balustrade, its graceful statues and exquisite flower effects are brought into strong relief, and the whole Is indescribably beautiful. The Jardin des Tulleries is the most popu- lar promenade In Parls^ and the especial para- dise of nursemaids and children. Here, In the late afternoon, one sees a long line of huge wagons filled with vegetables, present- ing a picturesque market scene. They have come from the country, for miles around. In order to supply the early demand of the hotels and cafes. They are filled with vege- tables of many kinds. One would suppose that they were arranged for the artist's brush as the ensemble is highly effective. The main body of the vegetables Is girdled around with huge bunches of carrots and radishes, the green leaves falling gracefully over the sides of the great clean wagon. Paris is the cradle of the culinary art. All night, and almost everywhere, the pavements 70 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN are filled with tables and chairs and people, singly and in groups, idling hours away with refreshments, liquid and otherwise, peculiar to the French palate. Wherever the traveler may take up his abode, he may depend upon a good restaurant in the vicinity. The Cafe de Paris and Maxim's are among the most popular of the restaurants of Paris. Long tables are attractively arranged, and from a tropically lighted stage or gallery, comes an orchestral accompaniment of music to the chatter of guests. To eat, drink and be merry seems the life of the Parisians. The most alluring of the French restaurants are in the Champs Ely- sees. Here many of the restaurants are lo- cated on terraces, where the woody lanes leading to the cafes are festooned and bow- ered with gaily-colored lights. At tables you are surrounded by beautiful women exquisitely gowned, and plain women pleasing to look upon, and tawdry women. Chacun a son gout! You are scarcely seated at table, when a waiter places before you hors d'oeuvres which are everywhere served on the Continent, and other foreign countries, before dinner is served. The hors d'oeuvres usually con- 7} FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN sist of prawns, sardines, deviled eggs and like edibles as an appetizer. You pay for everything you are served with, and this includes also the table-cloth and napkin, for which payment also is ex- acted, nor must you forget the waiter's pour- boire which is a legitimate charge. A favorite place with us for dinner is the Quartier Latin, where one may come at any time between the hours of six and eight o'clock, and enjoy a good dinner at from one to five francs (including a bottle of wine) as expeditiously, or as leisurely, as one pleases, and where. In most instances, payment is made at the door on entering. The cuisine is sometimes little Inferior to that of the best restaurants. Here, also, one enjoys seeing something of the student life. Some of their homes are dark and dingy, their clothes shabby. Many of them wear their hair quite long, their coats and trousers quite short. Low-brimmed black felt hats, which one in- stinctively associates with artists, cover their heads. Many of the men have short beards, narrow and scraggy. Their general appear- ance is such as to attract one's attention aside from the interest they possess as students of art. 72 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN But to return to our afternoon drive. We had just entered the Champs Elysees, when we saw in the distance a great crowd of peo- ple. I said to the cocher, " Qu'y a-t-il?" He replied with a motion of his whip to the left, " Santos Dumont! " As we approached the Arc de Triomphe, we found ourselves hemmed in on all sides by vehicles. The scene was an animated one. Every driver stood in his carriage with whip upright in his right hand. Every carriage was filled with beautiful and perfectly gowned women. 'Tis true that Paris is renowned for her beau- tiful women. And 'tis equally true that the brush of the painter, and the touch of the swansdown puff can work wonders with the plainest face, and so it is that the women of Paris are made beautiful. And their lips! Were rubies ever redder? But let us not be too critical of their beauty, whether natural or otherwise, for they were very pretty to look at. Many of the men looked as if they, also, had recourse to the " paint-pot," and evi- dences of the powder-puff on their faces were not wanting. I should dislike to believe that these painted dandies are representative Parisians, for I don't think they are. But 73 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the fact that among the men of Paris are many who descend to such foppishness was, in itself, an unpleasant revelation. Suddenly a great shout was heard, and Santos Dumont and his air-ship arose. They had scarcely cleared the tops of the carriages, and the guy-ropes were still trailing over the heads of the people, when the ship slowly descended to the ground. Cocher explained that this was caused by a slight derangement of the machinery. Whatever the cause it was soon remedied, and a few minutes later the ship arose almost vertically, with Santos Dumont standing in the stern, his hand on the steering gear. The proper height having been reached, he sent the ship forward with a quick movement of the wheel, and in less time than it takes to describe it, it was sail- ing majestically over the tree-tops to the east, with all the grace and swiftness of a monster bird. The hand-clapping and the cheers of the great crowd followed Santos Dumont for some moments, he, hat in hand, smiling and bowing his acknowledgment of it. It was the first time we had witnessed the flight of an air-ship, and the experience was the more delightful because of the pleas- ant circumstances connected with it. 74 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN With the disappearance of Santos Dumont, the vast crowd gradually disappeared, each team starting in its chosen direction. Many were soon lost among the wooded roads. In the allees men and women strolled, giving to the scene the appearance of a grand garden fete. On we drove until we came to the end of the Bois, where we encountered an army of people. At that point the road is quite wide. There were four lines of victorias. Two lines were going in one direction, and two in the opposite direction, giving the effect of a dress review. The horses walked, en- abling friends, in passing, to say a few words, and leaving some words to be understood, as they drove by and beyond one another. A little later, the moon was shining brightly from a star-lit sky, touching the tree- tops with silver, and throwing a halo of en- chantment over the scene. June 21 St. Sunday. We attended services this morn- ing at the Russian Church. We found it a unique structure. It is surmounted by five gilded domes. As you pass from the street you have the feeling that you are entering a stately reception hall. It is a large square 75 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN' room. Its walls are hung with choice paint- ings. A beautiful rug covers the floor, with just a few chairs here and there, for you are supposed to stand during the services. The chancel is superb with its gilded traceries of gold, and jeweled " ikons." It is all so chaste and exquisite, and the Gregorian mu- sic so superbly sung, that you are loth to leave. But leave you must, as the church is closed, and the doors are locked immediately at the conclusion of the services. In the afternoon we drove about the city. Shortly after leaving the hotel, we were at- tracted by what appeared to be a funeral cor- tege, and so it proved. Cocher drove hur- riedly, in order that he might place us at a convenient point to see it. We arrived as the cortege was leaving the Madeleine. The coffin was covered with artificial floral de- signs ; the top of the hearse was similarly cov- ered. The driver wore a continental shaped hat of black cloth edged with silver, and with silver cords with tassels hanging from the sides. From his shoulders fell also long sil- ver cords with tassels. The horses were ca- parisoned with black cloth, heavily bordered with black fringe, which hung to their feet. Following the hearse were perhaps forty men 76 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN in dress suits, carrying their hats in their hands. Behind the men were almost as many women, all in black and afoot. When the cortege was some distance away we en- tered the church. The Madeleine is built in the style of a late adaptation of a Greek temple. It stands on a basement twenty-three feet in height, and is surrounded by an imposing colonnade of massive Corinthian columns. The building is destitute of windows, and is constructed exclusively of stone. The niches in the col- onnade contain statues of saints — thirty-four in number. The church is lighted with heavy chandeliers suspended from the ceiling, and the only ventilation comes from the open doors through which one enters. In France, as in other European countries, the display attending one's funeral depends upon the length of one's purse. Manifestly the person over whose body services had just been held was some one of distinction, or of wealth, for the interior of the edifice was heavily draped in black from ceiling to floor. Here again the Instinct for art, which is so characteristically French, came out strongly. It brought out the impression of solemnity with startling, but sombre effect, and this was 77 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN heightened by the sweet but solemn music of the choir. Seeing this funeral reminds me of one that we saw In Brussels on a previous visit to Europe. We were strolling through the streets, and chanced upon a funeral quite in contrast with that to which I have briefly referred. It consisted of a plain wagon, in which rested an ordinary pine box or coffin, containing the remains of the deceased. Fol- lowing the wagon were two bent and poorly clad laborers carrying their hats In their hands. And yet, as they went on and on, slowly, so slowly, there were none too proud to tip their hats In reverence as they passed. Indeed! I saw several people, as the modest cortege wended its way, on bended knees, hat in hand. June 22nd. The stores in Paris were our objects of in- terest to-day. We spent the evening sitting In the court of the hotel, as there one always finds much to amuse and Interest one. June 22rd. This morning we decided to visit some of the better known coutourieres. We found one on the Rue de Rivoli. It was an Impos- 78 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ing brown stone house. We mounted the steps, and touched the bell. Open flew the door, and at the head of the long flight of stairs stood two handsome women wearing black silk gowns that accentuated their per- fect forms. At first we thought them man- nequins placed there as signs of the latest styles. But no ! as we approached them their eyes moved, and their voices assured us that they were living beings as they politely ushered us Into a room close by. I asked to be shown coats, whereupon they vanished as If by maglq, and instantly In rolled, as I sup- posed, two automatic figures on rollers, so easily did they glide along. They wore the garments I had inquired about, but they were not what I wanted. When I so Informed them, out they glided sans un mot. As the prospect of a sale vanished, so also did their politeness. This had been a not Infrequent experience at such places. The attendants are polite and courteous so long as the pros- pect exists of a sale. If for any reason whatsoever there be no sale, one's expressions of regret are met with a look of cold indiffer- ence, and one's parting au revoir falls on deaf ears. In the afternoon we went to the Chamber 79 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN of Deputies, known as the Palais du Corps Legislatif. It is built in the style of a Greek temple, with a Corinthian colonnade of twelve columns. When the Chamber, which corresponds to our House of Repre- sentatives, is sitting, visitors are admitted, but only to the Salle des Seances, or Assembly Hall, for which a card is required. We went early in order to get desirable seats in the gallery. After waiting some time, we suddenly heard a noise outside the hall; then followed the blowing of horns, and in filed the members to their seats. Soon the entire body of men were in a state of confusion, for the business before the Chamber was the Separation Bill, which is the name given to the measure to withdraw from the church the support of the state. The scene was not un- like that which we Washingtonians are fa- miliar with at the Capitol when our Congress Is in session. From the tenor of the remarks it appeared that the bill was a Government measure, and that the majority of those tak- ing part in the discussion were favorable to its passage. The opposition made up in en- ergy and declamation what it lacked in num- bers, and, altogether, it was a pretty parlia- mentary fight that would have delighted the 80 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN hearts of our own statesmen. The French have their Bourke Cockrans, their Champ Clarks, their John Dalzell's, their Sereno Payne's and they were quite as noisy as their American confreres. It was obvious that the debate was on for an unlimited period, and that the end of the discussion was nowhere In sight. I have said that the scene reminded me of our House of Representatives; but the rules of the two bodies must differ radically, for In the French Chamber thd discussion had already run a month. The same bill In our House would, under our rules, have been passed with a half hour's debate If the major- ity had so desired; but in the French Cham- ber there Is apparently no way of cutting off debate. The loges In the gallery were filled with women who followed the discussion with an interest second only to that of the men on the floor. We dined to-night at the Le Doyen In the Bois. The dinner was good. A feature of many restaurants in Europe, unknown in our country, is the presentation of fans by the waiters to the ladles present; fans illustrating some feature of the place. June 24.th. We were guests to-night of Mr. Charles 8i FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN A. Conant at dinner at the Princess Hotel, a delightfully dainty hostelry. June 2^th. I visited the Galleries of the Gobelin tapes- tries to-day. They were instituted by Louis XIV., and contain rare Flemish tapestries. This institute is open only two hours each week, in order to interrupt as little as possi- ble the artists at their arduous and delicate work. Not a sound is permitted, so that one must be content to look unutterable things, or be ejected. During our stay a group of children rushed playfully Into one of the galleries. They were no sooner In than they were out, fright- ened evidently by the stillness pervading the room. June 26th, We drove to-day past the Madeleine, to the Bastile, then to the Pantheon and the Garden of the Luxembourg. The last named Is the only remaining renaissance garden in Paris. It contains few lawns, and not many flowers. In the open space there are numerous sculptures. A military band plays three times a week, and attracts large crowds of Parisians of all degrees. 82 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN June I'jth. The strenuous sight-seeing of weeks past, and the weeks of still more sight-seeing in store for us, necessitate a day of rest now and then, so to-day we have devoted to rest. June 2^th. We arose early this morning, for we are to drive to Versailles. Besides we want to enjoy the freshness of the early summer Sun- day morning. It was something of a shock, after leaving the beautiful Bois, to come across an aged couple, a man and a woman, hitched to a wagon filled with furniture. They were scantily clothed, and their appearance de- noted dire poverty. They were pulling their burden with difficulty, as was shown by the manner In which they bent their bodies to the task, and their tired faces reflected their ex- hausted condition. They were peasants of the lower order of peasantry, veritable hu- man beasts of burden. With all our national shortcomings — and Heaven knows we have many — one will see no such sight as this on an American high- way. Our American women have their troubles, as have the men ; but they are never 83 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN harnessed to plows or wagons as Is so often the case in Europe. In our consideration for women we lead the world, and in my phi- losophy^ the country that treats its women best, is the country that stands in the van of civilization. On we went to Versailles, passing through beautiful St. Cloud and Sevres. Wishing to enjoy everything en route, we drove slowly until we reached the park of Versailles, which is indebted to Louis XIV. for Its origin. It Is said that not fewer than thirty-six hundred men, and six thousand horses, were employed at one time In forming the terraces of the garden, leveling the park, and constructing a road connecting It with Paris. A more artificial style can hardly be conceived. The grounds are Interesting on account of their quaint, solemn, old-fashioned appearance, which harmonizes admirably with the heavy and formal architecture of the Palace, and is In perfect keeping with the notions of art that prevailed In the time of Louis XIV. The grounds are adorned with statues and vases. Some of these are copies, and others are originals of the 17th and i8th centuries. The most Imposing side of the Palace is that which faces the gardens. Ascending a 84 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN very long, wide flight of stone steps, you en- ter the Palace where you are immediately be- sieged by guides wishing to show you. In the least possible time (for a consideration, of course), the important galleries and rooms. The building dates from several different pe- riods. The central part Is the original Cha- teau of Louis XIV. Additions were added under Louis XIV., and other additions under Louis XV. To-day It presents substantially the same appearance as at the close of the reign of Louis XIV. The Gallerie des Tombeaux contains the remarkable Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella of Castile, Charles the Bold and Mary of Burgundy. The Salles des Crolsades Is noted for Its sumptuous decorations and magnificent mod- ern pictures. The Salon de la Guerre, so called from Its allegorical ceiling-paintings by Le Brun, In the cupola, represents France hurling thun- der-bolts, and carrying a shield with a por- trait of Louis XIV., and in the spandrels, Bel- lona, Spain, Germany and Holland cowering In terror. Over the fire-place is a huge relief of Louis XIV. These, with the wonderful Gallerie des Batailles, are but few of the 85 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN great galleries of the Palace, each crowded with its works of renown. Among the principal bed-rooms are those of Marie Theresa, Marie Lescinska and Marie Antoinette. The Grand Trianon, three quarters of a mile from the Palace, a handsome villa of one story, was erected by Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon. The Petit Trianon near by, erected by Louis XV., was the rural home of Marie Antoinette. The Jardin du Petit Trianon is laid out in the English style, and contains some fine exotic trees, a temple of love, and a hamlet of nine or ten cottages, where the court-ladies played at peasant life. Here I am reminded of an afternoon, not very long ago, when I was visiting some friends. The conversation turned to travels. I spoke with enthusiasm of Europe. One of the ladies asked, '' What is there to see In Europe?" In a few minutes I was breath- lessly relating a few of my impressions. When I had finished she replied, " I don't wonder that you love to go to Europe." We luncheoned at the Hotel des Reser- voirs, once the home of Pompadour, and as- sociated also with the joyous youthful life of 86 FROM CAPJTOL TO KREMLIN Marie Antoinette, who little dreamed of the tragedy In store for her; that the concler- gerle would claim her among the doomed, and that her body would be thrown Into a common grave In the cemetery of La Made- leine. The service of the luncheon was unex- celled. The china was unusually beautiful. The fruits were served on plates of rare china, and the Ices In shell-like glasses with gold spoons. Truly a rare serving for a res- taurant. It was Louis XIV. who transformed Ver- sailles from a hunting forest, more than two hundred years ago, to a splendid palace and forest, the latter the greatest In the world. A vista from the front steps of the Palace shows a range of thirty miles of groves, lawns and fountains. Luncheon over we returned to Paris, the Queen city of Europe; Paris of gates and statues, basking In the sunlight of an Ideal June day. The governing authorities of France have wisely banished the factories and manufacturing establishments at a dis- tance from the city, so that the air Is never smoke-laden, or the beauty of Its parks and gardens marred by smoke. Let us hope that 87 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN our Washington authorities will profit by their example. We came back to the city in the early after- noon to attend a garden-fete at half past five at the palace of President and Madame Lou- bet, In the Champs Elysees. We arrived at the hour appointed. At the gate we presented our card of invitation. It passed through the hands of three straight, stiff, uniformed attendants. Before we moved on I said to the first attendant: " Voulez-vous avoir la bonte me donner la carte plus tard? J'al le desir le conserver comme un souvenir." With a polite bow he re- plied, " Avec beaucoup de plaisir, Madame." On leaving the grounds my card was handed to me, and we were rewarded also with a beaming smile and profound bow In return for a liberal " tip." But to go back to the fete. We were ushered with great ceremony into the draw- ing-room, only to find that President and Madame Loubet had gone into the garden, where the reception was continued. We found President and Madame Loubet standing on an exquisite pale green rug under wide spreading trees. All about stood and strolled Parisian society, and soldiers In unl- 88 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN form, while two bands made music from op- posite ends of the garden, and dancers were everywhere on the velvety lawn. As we approached President and Madame Loubet, we stood awhile to study them. The President is of medium height, plain In ap- pearance, and with pleasing manners. Ma- dame Loubet is of the same height as the President, and with like manners. She was gowned In beautiful white lace, and wore a white bonnet to match. As there was no one to Introduce us I said to my husband, " I am going to speak to President and Madame Loubet In French." I did so and was delighted to receive from both a cordial hand-shake, gracious smiles and pretty compliments. In fact the Presi- dent's hand-shake was the most cordial I ever have received. With a firm grasp he shook my hand up and down like a pump-handle. He shook It so energetically that I was glad when he released it. I simply said, " Monsieur le President, comme une Amerlcalne, j'apprecle I'honneur de vous rencontrer." The fact that I was an American was the reason, I am quite cer- tain, that they received me so cordially. Neither President nor Madame Loubet speak 89 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN English; and this, doubtless, was also a pass- port to their favor. A unique and pretty feature of the fete was a chain of young men and women danc- ing from the drawing-room, out over the lawn, around and about the President and Madame Loubet. And this was our first glimpse of official society in Paris. June 2gth. Mrs. Meade and I went shopping. As we entered the first shop Mrs. Meade discov- ered that she had left her purse in the cab. We hurried to the street to find that the driver had disappeared. Thinking he might be driving about the vicinity, we waited for his return. After some delay, we discovered that we had neglected to take his cab num- ber. An American, passing, seeing us in a dilemma, politely asked If he could assist us. We gladly accepted his offer. We explained to him the absence of the driver with the purse. "Ah!" he said, "did you take his number?" "No!" we replied. Then he said, " I am afraid you have lost your purse. The driver's number would have been your protection." He kindly took us to a detect- ive bureau near by where he explained our 90 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN loss. There, too, we found that there was no redress because of our failure to take the driver's number. Fortunately I had my purse, and we drove back to the hotel sadder but wiser women. Just before we arrived at the hotel, we saw a pretty, living picture of which Paris is so full. It was that of two black-eyed women of the peasant class. Their black, curly hair was blowing about their heads, for they were bare-headed. They wore short skirts, gingham aprons and little checked woolen shawls about their shoulders. On their backs were strapped large wicker baskets from which roses like the American Beauty were standing upright, nodding in uni- son with their steps. The women were in a merry mood; it was a veritable living picture. To-day our sight-seeing was limited to the Palais de Justice, St. Chappelle and Notre Dame. The Palais de Justice occupies the site of the ancient Palace of the Kings of France, which was presented by Charles the seventh in 1 43 1 to the Parliament or Supreme Court of Justice. In 1618, and again in 1776, the Palace was injured by fire, so that little now remains except the Tour de I'Horloge, the 91 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Tour de Caesar, the pinnacled Tour d' Argent and the kitchens of St. Louis. The clock in the Tour de I'Horloge is the oldest public clock in France. It was con- structed in 1370 by Henry de Vic, a German clock-maker. The St. Chappelle, or Holy Chapel of the King, was the ancient Palace-Chapel during the reign of St. Louis. It is a perfect gem of Gothic architecture. The only service now performed here is the mass of the Holy Ghost, celebrated on the re-opening of the courts after the autumn vacation. It was here, also, that Louis XIII., during his exile in prison adjoining the church, had a small, secret opening made in the side wall of the church, through which he would listen to the services. The Cathedral of Notre Dame is of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. Its massive columns, its solid brass chandeliers, Its bas-reliefs in color, its crypts and notable chancel of marble and brass, where Napoleon was crowned, make it an object of great in- terest, aside from its towers which survived the ravages of the Revolution, and its ancient consecration in 11 82. The fagade, the finest part of the Cathe- 92 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN dral, dates from the beginning of the 13th century, and, the earliest of its kind, has served as a model of many other churches in France. June 2^th. In our drive about the city to-day, we de- cided to visit the Church of the Sorbonne, and we were well repaid for doing so. The church was built by Richelieu early in the sev- enteenth century. A conspicuous dome sur- mounts it. It contains the tomb of the Due de Richelieu, who distinguished himself in the Russian service, and as Minister under Louis XVIII. The tomb is an exquisite work of carving In marble. It represents the Cardinal in a semi-recumbent posture, supported by Reli- gion, while Science stands by in an attitude of grief. Directly over the tomb, and high above the heads of mankind, suspended by a chain, hangs the Cardinal's hat. And the dust on it ! One is disposed to dust the hat, but who dares ! So long as France is remembered, Riche- lieu, also, will be remembered. His work was all for the glory of France, and he per- formed it well. History tells us that he was both the accomplished courtier and master of 93 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN state-craft. Under his skillful leadership the power of the feudal lords was broken, and these haughty noblemen were brought to the support of the crown; the Protestant in- fluence was practicall)^ destroyed and France's powerful enemy, Austria, humbled. As I looked at his tomb to-day, with the remembrance of the debate in the Chamber of Deputies, on the Separation Bill, still fresh in my mind, I wondered what the great Car- dinal's thoughts must be, if, in another life, he knew of the effort to destroy the church's power. In his day church and state were one and inseparable; yet to-day the popular branch of the government was discussing, and with every probability of success, the ques- tion of withdrawing its support from the church and leaving it without a vestige of state recognition. If the echoes of that dis- cussion could have reached his ears his re- mains must have turned in their coffin — that is, if there were any remains left to turn ! * July 1st. In Paris one finds much to stimulate the brain. To-day we spent some time at the Tomb of Napoleon I., which is situated be- * The bill has since become law. 94 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN neath the Dome des Invalides in an open crypt. Properly to appreciate It, one should see it by sunlight, as then the color blue, which predominates, is given a peculiarly soft touch. The fleur-de-lis in gilt is the decorative scheme. The mosaic pavement represents a wreath of laurel, and is inscribed with the names of battles including Austerlitz, Fried- land, Marengo, Wagram and Moscow. The sarcophagus consists of a huge block of reddish-brown granite, weighing many tons, and was brought from Finland. With- in the tomb are also sixty flags captured in battle by Napoleon. The faint bluish light admitted from above, and the sombre appearance of the crypt and its surroundings, greatly enhance the grandeur of the scene. In the evening we were guests of Mr. and Mrs. Hugh H. Hanna at Hotel de RItz, the most exclusive hotel of Paris. It was a large dinner party, given in the court, where the vari-colored lights, plants and blooming flow- ers made a beautiful setting for the guests. July 2nd. The Musee de Sevigne claimed a great part of the day. Madame de Sevigne, noted 95 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN for her beauty, wit and wealth, was the wife of a nobleman of Brittany. She was a French woman with none of the vices of the frivolous French women, a leader of society, yet a prodigy of domestic affections, a lover of the fields, a great writer, in short, a woman who won the admiration of every great man who appreciated wit and honored virtue. She was of a coterie of celebrities including Richelieu, known as her *' dear Cardinal," Horace Walpole, who made an idol of her because of her brilliancy, and LaRochefou- cauld. On the Musee walls are scenes, each with a history attached, and trophies of the Revo- lution. The dining-room is intact as she left it. It is a small room. Its walls are covered with priceless Sevres. The cabinets, with their rare curios, are the envy of the curio- connoisseur. In the gallery hangs a life-like mask of Voltaire. The waxen hue of the face, with its Bergerac-like nose, and its hair of dull brown color, make it strikingly real- istic. Near the mask stands a chair that was used by Voltaire as his writing-desk and chair combined. It has a deep seat, broad back and also a very broad arm-rest which he used for writing purposes. The seat is much 96 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN worn, showing here and there the horsehair with which It Is cushioned. July 3r^. If you desire to be separated from your small change, you have but to go to the an- cient Musee de Cluny. It was constructed in 1492, about the time that Queen Isa- bella was preparing to sell her jewels to give Columbus the money with which to complete his sailing craft, and his efforts which led to the discovery of America. It was the basement of Cluny, the Benedic- tine monks used in manufacturing benedic- tine. The sister of Henry the VIII. lived there for several years. She is said to have left England to avoid going Into mourning for all of Henry's wives. The Musee com- prises a valuable collection of medieval ob- jects of art and industry. There are about eleven hundred objects of art in the Musee, so that a single visit scarcely affords an Idea of even the most Important. July ^th. " The day we celebrate ! " And we did cele- brate it by going first to the Louvre in the morning. The Louvre and the Tuileries together cover an area of forty-eight acres, forming one of the most magnificent palaces 97 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN in the world. The rooms of the Louvre are connected with one another, and are so nu- merous, that it takes two hours to walk through them without stopping. With its paintings, tapestries, gems and objects of art, the bronzes of Renaissance of the i6th cen- tury, its original statues of the 5th century, the task is an almost endless one to specify. Here French, Flemish, Italian, Spanish and Dutch art are magnificently presented. All statues in the Louvre are original, except the bronze, and were brought from the museum of Rome by Napoleon as relics of his pillage. Some of the objects I recall are busts of Socrates, Demosthenes and Diogenes, the marriage-room of Henry of Navarre, where Moliere played to King Henry and Catha- rine ; paintings representing the coronation of Napoleon, and Napoleon crowning Josephine in 1804; the crowns of Napoleon and Char- lemagne, the original diamond, called the re- gent of France, valued at twelve million francs, and exquisite crystals and china. Among the masters represented in the room where Napoleon married Louise, are Raffael, Troyan, Murillo, Coreggio, Rem- brandt, Rubens, Van Dyck and Claude Lo- 98 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN rain. The last named Is said to be the first painter who painted the sun In the heavens. With your neck continually on the stretch, and constantly fearing to fall as you glide over the highly polished floors, you are glad to get back to your room for rest. Mr. and Mrs. Hanna invited the entire party to celebrate the Fourth with them later In the afternoon, and a delightful affair it proved to be. Our host and hostess had gaily decorated their parlor with the Ameri- can colors. A table at one end was bounti- fully filled with Parisian dainties. We had songs and recitations, and the spirit of the occasion was Intensely patriotic. In the evening the men attended a dinner given by the American Chamber of Commerce, some of whom left in time to take a party of ladies to the Jardin des Paris, where an open air vau- deville, essentially French In character, was the attraction. It was quite late when we returned to the hotel, and the " glorious Fourth " had passed into history before we sought our couch. July ^th. It Is Sunday, a gala day In Europe, espe- cially In Paris. The people spend the time 99 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN in the open air, and after a manner peculiarly European. We spent it in driving and visit- ing the parks of Paris. To get nearest the pleasures of the people, we strolled through the garden of the Luxembourg, where bands played, people sat at their ease and chatted, and sweethearts strolled arm in arm looking soft nothings at one another. We saw a pretty little woman daintily dressed sitting alone, with a look of perplex- ity on her face. Suddenly she raised her skirt, and adjusted her garter. Then she dropped her skirt and lapsed into a medita- tive mood again. July 6th. We visited the Church of St. Etienne to see the beautifully wrought tomb of St. Eti- enne, the patron saint of Paris, after which we went to St. Germain des pres, one of the oldest and most interesting churches of Paris, founded in the sixth century. We drove through the Latin Quarter, and stopped at a restaurant for dinner. And there we had, again, an opportunity to see more of the student life. On this occasion the type we saw was of slender physique ; his hair bushy, his chin boasting a short and thin whisker. A fierce and upward curling mous- 100 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN tache crowned his lip. His trousers were far from being a la mode, and stopped at his shoe-tops. A very short coat, colored shirt and black tie completed his modest attire. His serious face does not surprise you when later you stroll through the narrow streets where he lives and are brought face to face with the sordid and cheerless character of his surroundings. July "jth. Mrs. Meade and I drove to L'Eglise du Sacre Coeur, an imposing edifice in the Ro- manesque style that crowns the summit of Butte Montmartre, a hill famous in the an- nals of Paris. According to tradition, St. Denis, the first bishop of Paris, and his com- panions suffered martyrdom here in 270. The church is reached by a long detour, or flight of steps. It possesses the largest bell in France, known as the Savoyard. It weighs more than thirty-two tons. On our return drive to the city, cocher called our attention to a wedding that was taking place in a church that we were just then passing. We appreciated his kindly in- terest and entered the church. One cannot conceive a prettier wedding lOI FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN scene than that of a high-noon wedding in a French Cathedral. The chancel was deco- rated with tall waving palms. The Cathe- dral was filled with guests. We arrived too late to witness the beginning. As we en- tered, a notably fine baritone voice was heard in solo. The bride and groom sat before a crimson prie-Dieu; the brides-maids and groomsmen standing about them. To the right sat the parents of the bride and groom. The organ pealed forth a signal, and imme- diately the bride and groom and their parents were surrounded by the bridal attendants, who served refreshments, at the same time danc- ing around the wedding party. That fin- ished, the brides-maids and groomsmen formed a line, and marched down each aisle accompanied by children carrying little bas- kets for offerings. The groomsmen held the left hand of the brides-maids gracefully aloft. In the right hand of the brides-maids was carried a pretty basket tied with ribbon corresponding to the colors of her hat and sash. These baskets were passed to each guest and the sums of money contributed to charity; the little girls in turn passing their baskets for a donation which was added to that of the brides-maids. This finished, the 102 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN attendants met In the rear of the Cathedral, and marched up the aisle to the chancel, where they again joined the bride and groom, who preceded, with great ceremony, the at- tendants. All ascended the chancel, fol- lowed by the guests. In a rose-embowered room to the rear, the bride and groom re- ceived the congratulations of their friends, and there we left them. July Sth. We rose early and took an eight o'clock train for the Hague. The trip en route was a succession of beauty and interest. Ap- proaching Brussels, and while I was enjoying the landscape, I suddenly saw a giant woman, apparently seventy years old, walking in one of the picturesque allees so often seen In Europe. She was big and brawny, wearing a white cap ruffled about her deeply furrowed face, and falling over her shoulders. Her woolen skirt just reached her knees. Her legs were bare. She wore wooden shoes, and over her shoulder was resting a rake. She strode with the steps of a Hercules. She was evidently a tiller of the soil. Another scene strikingly unique was that of a woman doing the work of two horses. She was pulling a canal boat. The boat was 103 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN quite large, and the strength necessary to pro- pel it was evidenced by her vigorous efforts as she swayed back and forth. She wore nothing on her head. Her hair was blowing about her face. Beside her, and clutching its mother's hand as if to make the pull the lighter, was a little bare-headed child about eight years old. It too was pulling with might and main, as its little body bent for- ward and backward to keep pace with its mother. From Brussels to the Hague, the scenery changes constantly. The little French homes seem made for play-houses. They are small, with touches of color, and built for artistic effect as well as for living purposes. As from Dover to Paris, so from Paris to the Hague, there are many fields of wheat dotted and bordered with scarlet poppies, an en- chanting study in scarlet and yellow. This flower is to France what the daisy is to Amer- ica. A charm of travel through England and the Continent, is the absence of piles of sticks and stones, scraps of paper, or tin cans to mar the harmony of the perfectly kept homes and their surroundings. Speaking of Brussels recalls an amusing 104 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN incident that occurred when we were there several years ago. We were driving to the Exposition. En route, we passed a carriage so handsome in its appointments that I asked the driver whose carriage it was. He replied, " King Leopold's." That gave it an added interest. The carriage was very large, gracefully curved, and lined with bright-colored bro- cade. It was drawn by four horses. On one of them sat the driver. There were two outriders and two footmen. Later, as we were leaving the Exposition, I said to my husband, '' There is the King's carriage; let us wait to see the King." As we never had seen a real King before, we stood close by the door through which he was certain to leave. His carriage also was close by. We did not have long to wait. In the meantime a great crowd had assembled. A footman stood at the door to assist the King, who came out soon and smilingly ac- knowledged the ovation that the people cor- dially gave him. He wore gray trousers, the conventional frock coat, and military cap. He is above the medium in height, and his shoulders droop a great deal. He wears a long beard and lacked the appearance that 105 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN I had always associated with Kings. His face and manner betokened a genial nature. In a few minutes he was seated and rapidly driven out and beyond the grounds of the Exposition. The amusing incident to which I have referred was this; and it served to illustrate the different way in which things are done here and on our side of the water. A wide, smooth driveway ran from the main Exposition building to the edge of the grounds. It was de- signed to keep the drive-way free of foot passengers until the Kings's departure. This work was assigned to a single man, a gen- darme, dressed in the uniform of the muni- cipal police, and carrying in his hand a light stick. While awaiting the King's appear- ance, it frequently happened that a man or woman would attempt to cross the drive-way to the open space beyond, hoping that the ^ gendarme would overlook their indiscretion. , But the gendarme was there to carry out his instructions, and in each case the trespasser was admonished with a polite " s'il vous plait, monsieur," (or madame) to return to his original position. After several attempts of this nature had failed, it was reserved for io6 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN a woman (an unmistakably English woman) to ignore the guard's order. He called to her several times before she heeded his warning. Then, as she turned partly in his direction, he said with a degree of sternness that he had not used before, " S'il vous plait, madame," at the same time indicating with his stick that she was to resume her place in the crowd. Instead, she squared her shoul- ders and defiantly resumed her progress down the road. Again he called, "Madame!" There was no response. "Madame!" he repeated, but Madame was apparently deaf to his words. By this time the interest of the twenty or thirty thousand spectators was intense. I fully expected to see her arrested and possibly subjected to personal violence. Nothing of the kind occurred, and this is where they do things so differently over here. On the contrary, the little guard did not move from his position, nor did he speak In louder tones than were necessary to reach her ears. He still continued to call, at brief Intervals, " Madame ! " " Madame ! " At last even her assurance failed (perhaps the knowledge that so many persons were wait- ing for the denouement had its effect upon her) and she quietly stepped aside and, a 107 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN moment later, was swallowed up In the ocean of humanity about her. As she disappeared a great sigh of relief arose from the onlook- ers. The guard waited a few seconds for her reappearance. When he saw that she purposed to remain Invisible, the very ghost of a smile Illumined his countenance — a faint smile of triumph over a stubborn foe. Then, to the astonishment and great amuse- ment of the English and Americans present, he ejaculated the single word " Damn! " It was probably the only English he knew; but It evidently relieved his feelings, for after that his face resumed Its wonted serenity again. July 1 1 th. We have arrived at The Hague. It was originally a hunting resort of the Counts of Holland. It Is now the residence of the Queen of Holland, and the seat of govern- ment. It Is a city of profound silence. Even the dogs, the tollers of Holland, are not heard to growl, as one would think It their privilege. Their exhaustion Is borne In si- lence ; but the plaintive look In their eyes tell their story. The Hague Is half Dutch and half French. It Is in the country of dykes, wind-mills, io8 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN storks, wooden shoes and queer feminine head-gear. Here one finds a Gallery of great Interest, consisting of a collection made by the Princes of Orange. Rembrandt and Potter are the heroes of the collection. Rembrandt of por- trait fame, of golden tones, " and tones brown to dimness." Paul Potter's far-famed bull Is the piece de resistance of the collec- tion, and Is remarkable as one of the few ani- mal pieces that the master painted on so large a scale. It Is so hung, and so full of life and spirit that when you come upon It suddenly you are impressed with the belief for the mo- ment, that the bull is charging directly at you. Other artists represented are Ruysdael, Van der Velde and Philip Woverman, famed for his white horse and battle scenes. The streets of The Hague are wide and straight. In the residential section the houses are a delicate cream color, and uni- form In height, with very large shutterless windows. No shops are to be found, no placards, and the silence Is broken only by the passing of a stately carriage, with Its stately steed, and dignified occupants. The drivers and lackeys are stiffness unequaled. The most interesting drive of The Hague 109 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN IS Its forest, close by the city. There, the trees are of a Nile green shade, so similar in color that they seem as if touched with a painter's brush. At sunset the effect Is pe- culiarly beautiful. You seem to be driving through a Nile green haze. The forest is dotted with chalets and kiosks, and the Dutch people with their quaint dress make a pleasing picture. The Palace, or House in the Woods, as It Is familiarly called at The Hague, is occupied by the Queen, and is its greatest attraction. The most notable room is the Octagon Room, its walls covered with paintings of celebrated artists of the Rubens school. Another room Is filled with gifts from the Emperor of Japan. Chiefest among them are the ex- quisite tapestries. The shops are peculiarly Interesting, espe- cially the exclusive shops. You ascend two or three steps of what seems to you to be the handsome home of a person of wealth. You ring the bell. A stolid looking man or woman opens the door. If it Is silver you wish to see, you are delayed until a key Is found. The case is opened, you are shown the desired articles, the attendant in the mean- time keeping one eye on you, and one eye on no FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN his wares. Whether you purchase or not, the cases are again locked before you leave the shop. At another of the exclusive brIc-a-brac shops we rang the bell and were ushered Into what seemed to be a beautifully appointed parlor. Later we were conducted to the shop In the rear of the house, where Dutch, Flemish and French art were attractively displayed. The prison, an ancient tower also, Is of great Interest, with Its Instruments of torture used by the Spaniards In the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1672 Cornelius de Witt and his brother were falsely Imprisoned here, and literally torn to pieces. Torture In Its most barbaric form was practised within, and In front of the prison. Our stay was short at The Hague. We spent several hours at Scheveningen, which Is built upon sand-dunes. It is a clean fishing village, and one of the most frequented watering-places on the North Sea. Its prox- imity to The Hague gives it an advantage over other seaside resorts on this coast. It has several attractive hotels. Many of the best class of people occupy little houses quaintly picturesque and painted in the varl- III FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ous colors so common in Holland, but princi- pally In red, blue and green. The poor folk live in little black cottages in nar- row lanes. Fishing is their trade. The fishermen's clothes are very picturesque. They wear tiny black felt hats with a band of red around the brim, and balloon-like trou- sers to their ankles, a bright colored shirt and a red necktie. At Schevenlngen one finds every type of the Holland woman, all more or less pleasing to look at. Apart from the women who wear the large ruffled caps and wooden shoes, are the women who wear their hair smooth and tight, covered with a silver or gold cap, and over that again a night-cap- like head-dress of lace, falling In a sort of veil over the neck and shoulders. From their temples dangle spiral ornaments in gold, silver, or gilt-copper. Some of them fall to the ears ; others to the neck. Other women again wear their hair banged on the forehead. The long hair is divided into two curls that fall over the ears, and on the head is worn a small cap minus frills. Each wears her cap and ornaments according to her Province. Schevenlngen Is one of the gayest resorts along the Northern coast, and is a popular re- 112 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN sort with many distinguished English, Ger- man and Russian tourists. There are three bathing places, one for men, one for women and one where men and women bathe together in the French style. A feature of the bathing at this place, is its little pale green vans into which the women step in their promenade gowns and change their toilets for their bathing suits while the van is being pulled into the sea by a man who plays the part of a horse. Their bath finished, the women spring back into the van and emerge on the beach in their promenade toilets. After several hours spent at Scheveningen, we returned to The Hague, refreshed our- selves and enjoyed a drive about the environs, which are beautiful and interesting. The woods are dotted here and there with homes of strikingly quaint Dutch architecture. The original home of the Queen, which she occu- pied previously to the Palace in which she now lives, was peculiarly striking, as was the home of Cornelius de Witt and his brother, John de Witt. We drove through many delightful Dutch villages, stopping at the Velocipede Club for refreshments. Soon after we were seated, a 113 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN carriage stopped, and from It alighted a lady, her child and maid. The latter, while the least important socially, was by far the most attractive In her peasant costume. She wore a dark blue skirt which reached to her knees ; a yellow silk apron which touched the bottom of her skirt, was edged with black lace. A pretty white waist, and a pale blue kerchief about her shoulders completed her dress. On her head was worn a white cap of huge proportions. It fitted closely and across the back was a stiff bow fully a half yard wide of the same material. Altogether a most fetch- ing costume and by far the most pleasing we have seen in Europe. Holland abounds in the picturesque. When at Marken several years ago, I saw a strikingly unique figure running through the streets. I asked what It was, because I had never seen Its like before. I was told that it was a death notlfier, a man going from house to house to notify friends of the death of one of their number. He was tall and slender. He wore tight, black cloth knee- breeches, long black stockings, low, silver- buckled shoes, a black coat with long pointed ends reaching to his shoe-tops, and on his head a " weeper," or continental-like hat with 114 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN a point which extended to the edges of his coat. He had the solemn dignity of a hu- man raven, and I was insensibly reminded of Poe's weird poem. Holland, whose defenders are her dykes, Is mistress of her waters. Should a foreign army invade her territory, she has but to open her dykes and rivers, as she did against the Romans, against the Spaniards and against Louis XIV., to overwhelm them with their inrushing tide. Over the whole country is an immense net- work of canals which serve for Irrigation as well as for communication. The cities by means of canals connect with the sea. Ca- nals run from town to town, and from vil- lage to village. Small canals surround fields and orchards. Every house is a little port. Ships, boats, rafts move about in all direc- tions as In other places do carts and carriages. The doors of the little homes stand wide open. No dirt, no disagreeable odors, or an outstretched hand to beg. Everywhere is an atmosphere of cleanliness and well-be- ing. We have not the like unto it in our own country. July 1 2th. We left The Hague at half past five this 115 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN evening for Berlin. After about three hours ride by train, we arrived at Amsterdam, where we changed cars for the German capi- tal. Our compartment had been reserved. We made ourselves comfortable, and enjoyed the travel until night-fall. Believing that the train carried a dining- car, when seven o'clock came we expected to be served with dinner. We rang the bell to inquire the way to the dining-car. The con- ductor, who answered our summons, was German. We asked him what time dinner would be served. He replied, "Bet-time." "When will it be Bet- time?" I queried. His answer was, "Din- ner-time." After several fruitless efforts to learn when it would be " bet-time " or " din- ner-time," we made a desperate effort to find someone who could speak, at least, a little more English, and discovered a German who spoke English well but who served us little. He informed us that there was no dining-car on the train. Cool comfort that. He said that at the next station where we should ar- rive, refreshments would be sent to us. It was then nine o'clock. We had arrived at the desired station. Our friend bade us good-by, again promising to see that we got ii6 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN something to eat. He did, but such a din- ner ! It consisted of one huge sandwich and one bottle of beer. That finished, we con- cluded to smother our ill-appeased hunger in sleep. Again the bell was rung. Again came forth the grunty conductor. We struggled and struggled in vain to make him understand that we would like to have our berths made up for the night. Our only an- swer was a shake of the head and he disap- peared. This signified that there would be no " bet-time " for us that night, so far as the making up of the berths was concerned, so with hunger, no sheets, no blankets, for the night was quite cool, and no pillows, we wrapped our storm-coats about us and laid down — to pleasant dreams ? — no ! but to be bounced as balls the entire night, as the train traveled fast, and the road seemed nothing but curves. July i^th. We arrived In Berlin this morning. Glad were we when peep of day came so that we could forget, if possible, our tumbling, toss- ing night. When we entered the station, the first thing that attracted my attention was the signs over the gates labeled, " ousgang," 117 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN " outgang," " uitgang," " eingang," direct- ing the outgoing and incoming people. Berlin is the home of the German Em- peror, and the seat of the Imperial govern- ment. It dates back to the 13th century. Almost every part of Berlin offers a pleasing picture. Its streets enjoy a model cleanli- ness. There are few dark lanes or alleys, even in the oldest part of the city. One sees no squalor here. Not a bare-footed child. Nothing to offend the eye. In the aristocratic Tiergarten quarter, which contains the largest and most attract- ive park near the town, there is a similarity of houses, in height and color, running in curved blocks. All have beautifully flowered balconies at most of their windows. Green, scarlet and pink prevail, covering, and hang- ing low from the balconies. The public squares are embellished with gardens, monu- ments and fountains. The city, architectur- ally and florally. Is beautiful. The Tiergar- ten, for driving, sitting or strolling, is a fa- mous park in the center of the city. Fringing the edges are many restaurants with bands of music. All the world knows the German love for music, and here in Berlin one liter- ally feasts upon It. The streets of the city 118 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN are closed to cyclists, who must dismount even to cross them. On the busiest thoroughfares one finds a mounted guard in the center who sits his horse like a statue. Likewise at each cross- ing is a guard afoot. The German soldier is remarkably well-groomed. His clothes fit him well. Every attention seems given to the smallest detail of his dress. He is not always so polite as he should be, nor were some of the other people who were not soldiers. What was once a part of a forest is now the Unter den Linden, a parked avenue in the center of the city. It is filled with benches, and on them throughout the day wo- men with fast-flying fingers knit the time away. A noticeable street in Berlin is the Place des Sieges. For a distance of two blocks, on both sides of the street, are regular spaces of white marble statues of famous Prussians. Back of the statues, In their curved setting, are fine old trees giving the effect of a park of statuary. July i^th. Spent most of the day In the garden-court 119 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN of the hotel, enjoying the coming and going of people, and listening to the music. July i^th. What woman does not love to visit attract- ive stores? Here I found much courtesy in the stores when I was disposed to buy. If you have no idea of buying, I should advise you to look not upon the face of the sales- man or sales-woman, as you pass out of the store, unless you enjoy frowns. July iGth. To-day we enjoyed our first glimpse of so- cial life in Berlin. It was at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Dodge, the former Charge d'affairs of the American Embassy. The Germans were conspicuous by their absence. The only guests were Americans, the only German flavor being that of a punch pecul- iarly German, a punch of sour wine with a suspicion of fruit. The function was quite informal ; but the score or more of Americans present were among the best representatives of our countrymen and women, and among them were several of our Washington friends. July I'jth and iSth. I spent the afternoons in returning calls. 120 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Berlin too has its apartment houses. In paying my first visit, I rang the bell of what I supposed was a private dwelling; but which proved to be an apartment house. There was no response, and no one to direct me. As I was in the act of leaving, I heard a noise. Looking in the direction from which it came, I saw the lady upon whom I was call- ing. From her I learned that women occu- pying apartments in Berlin are obliged to run the elevator when they have need of it. On special occasions they engage an attend- ant. July igth. Sunday. We took an early train to Pots- dam, the most interesting excursion In the vicinity of Berlin. It is full of natural beau- ties and historical associations. The spa- cious parks with their rivers and fountains, and the palaces with their well preserved in- teriors and contemporary decorations and furniture, give one a better picture of a royal residence of the i8th century than can be seen even at the larger and more pretentious Pal- ace of Versailles, which was deprived of so much splendor by the Revolution. Potsdam, the Prussian Versailles, Is the true 121 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN cradle of the German army. Numerous sol- diers, picked men of the regiments of guards, form the most characteristic feature of the place. The town Palace is remarkable for the sumptuous furniture of Frederick the Great which is preserved in its original con- dition. The most interesting of the palaces is Sans Souci. This is reached by way of the park Sans Souci, containing a great fountain that rises to a height of one hundred and thirty feet. A broad flight of steps, inter- sected by six terraces, with orange trees on either side, ascends from the fountain to the Palace. On the highest terrace two foun- tains project their water in the form of bells. Sans Souci was the favorite residence of Frederick the Great. Here the German Emperor retired to find relief from the cares of state. Here he entertained Voltaire dur- ing a period of many months, until their friendship, based solely upon their intellec- tual tastes, was shattered at last by the differ- ence of their dispositions. Here, also, stands the windmill about which Frederick had his famous controversy. He wished to tear it down, as the unsightly object annoyed him; but its owner refused to 122 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN sell, and was even successful In a law suit with his majesty. There Is another story about the old land- mark that brings Into strong relief the noble qualities of Frederick's mind, and I like It better than that which I have just written. According to this story, Frederick sought an interview with the miller with a view to buying the property. The miller refused to sell, giving as his reason that it had long been in the possession of his family. I should explain, in passing, that the miller had never seen the Emperor, and supposed his caller to be only the latter's representa- tive. After some discussion the miller was told that if he continued obdurate, the Em- peror might take forcible possession of his property. To this the miller replied, " But the courts won't let him." The answer greatly delighted his majesty, who was pleased to see the esteem in which his courts were held by his subjects, who knew that un- der their protection not even the Emperor himself could do them wrong. Hard by Sans Souci stands an aged oak, known as the Tree of Petitions, on which his subjects fastened their petitions to the Em- peror. It is related that on a certain occa- 123 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN sion Frederick found the crowd surrounding the tree in a state of great excitement. In- quiring the cause, he was told that the paper that they were reading contained a serious reflection on himself. Frederick immedi- ately said, " Put it lower down so that every- body can see it! " July 20th. I spent the morning in the galleries so full of splendid art. Later I drove with Mrs. Hanna and Miss Moore through the city and its environs. July list. Mrs. Meade and I strolled through the Thiergarten, in a remote corner of which is the Mausoleum containing the tombs of Queen Louise and her husband, Frederick William III, and William I, and his wife Augusta. The inner walls of the chapel are of sky-blue color. Upon entering the door one is confronted with a mourning angel of heroic size. The center of the chapel con- tains four tombs. The recumbent figures of Queen Louise and Frederick William III are strikingly impressive. The figure of the beautiful Queen, in Carrara marble, is posed as if in sleep. The body is turned a little to 124 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the side, the head droops a little^ and the feet are crossed. We luncheoned at a restaurant close by. When we had decided upon our order, a waiter approached and asked in German what we would like. We gave him our order in English, reckoning as best we could what the German signified, as the menu was in German. He did not understand us; we did not understand him. As we were about to give up in despair, the only other guest, a man, came to our rescue. He, too, spoke German and not enough English to be intel- ligible. So we politely bowed ourselves out and went to another restaurant where we were more certain of being understood. July 22nd. Visited the Royal Palace. Just before en- tering the gallery visitors were told to wait for shoes. Not realizing what was meant, we soon discovered a man approaching with his arms full of long felt slippers. We were a large party, of all sizes and ages. Every one, from the tiniest tot to the largest person, was given the same size slipper, much too large for even the largest person. After a tucking in of toes, we started on our march 125 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN through the gallery, where we soon learned the reason for wearing the slippers. It was because of the beautiful and highly polished floor, which would be marked by the faintest foot-print. The effort to keep the slippers on took more time than it did to see the paintings, yet they afforded us much amuse- ment. I doubt whether such a custom pre- vails elsewhere in Europe. It was our only experience of its kind. Leaving the Palace we found a great gath- ering of people. The Emperor's band and his guard were en route to the Palace. We joined the throng, and were more than repaid by the spendid music and fine marching. Later I joined friends for a luncheon at the Carleton restaurant. On our way up the Unter den Linden I chanced to see many peo- ple looking upward at a particular point. Curiosity led me also to look. My friends, in the meantime, had moved on. I had no sooner turned my head, when I heard a voice saying in my ear, " Nein ! nein ! nein! " Wondering what it meant, I turned my head quickly, and behold! a hatless, mother-hub- bard dressed, red-faced, indignant- looking woman was giving me to understand that I was in her line of walk. At that moment 126 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN we were the only people on the pavement, a circumstance which accentuated her rudeness. She took me so by surprise that words failed me; but I looked unutterable things at her and walked on to join my friends, who re- gretted having missed the scene. It was a fresh exhibition of German rudeness. It is a well-known fact In Berlin that all pedestrians are compelled to turn out for sol- diers ; but in my case I was compelled to give way to a woman. Miss Moore of our party had an experience similar to mine. From what I learned, she was walking on one of the main thoroughfares, when she met an of- ficer coming in her direction. He showed no sign of turning out for her, and she de- termined not to turn out for him. They met, whereupon Miss Moore politely but in- dignantly informed the officer that she was an American. He tipped his hat and stepped aside, and she had the proud satisfaction of maintaining both her dignity as a woman and an American citizen. This afternoon our party comprising the American and Mexican commission was pho- tographed. There were seventeen people to be placed, and it took some time to arrange them to the best advantage. It was finally 127 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN accomplished, and an excellent souvenir was the result. To-night we were guests of Mr. Camacho, to hear the opera of Bocacclo. On entering the theater we were requested to check our hats. The custom Is an old one In Berlin, and a sensible custom It Is. In our country the women are beginning to sit with heads uncovered during a theatrical performance, and In time the custom will be generally ob- served. My curiosity to see a typical German audi- ence was gratified. Most of the women wore the conventional shirt waist. The men were In business suits. It was a thoroughly Bohemian audience. The opera was splendidly rendered. It was given with a dash that was very enjoy- able, and we made no effort to restrain our enthusiasm. July 22rd. Our last day In Berlin was rounded out with shopping and driving. July 2/\.th. We left this morning at 8 130 for Russia, that mysterious land of autocratic govern- ment; of plotting nihilists and secret police. The very thought of Russia sent the creeps 128 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN flying up and down my spine. Leaving so early In the morning meant more or less nerv- ousness In getting the party together, and the luggage properly checked. No one, or nothing, was delayed. When the train started, there was a general sigh of relief, at the same time we were filled with strange emotions at the thought of what awaited us In Russia. We occupied a special car. All day was spent In travel through Northern Germany, beautifully picturesque with Its varied land- scapes of hills, rivers, valleys, windmills, and storks In playful chase, or In nests perched on roofs of quaint little box-like red-topped houses. The grouping of the little homes In Ger- many Impresses you with the Idea that they band together for mutual protection and companionship. It differs In this respect from most rural regions, where houses are Isolated by great spaces. The simplest scene throughout the country left an Impression of harmony. The women workers of the soil were more In evidence than the men, and were usually bare-footed. The day passed quickly. The train flew faster and faster through the beautiful roll- 129 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ing country. Night came, and our interest was transferred from without to the cars, which differ materially from those of our country. They give one a sense of privacy that our Pullmans fail to give. Instead of one long car divided at night by portieres only, our car was divided into compartments accommodating two or four persons, with an upper and lower berth. Near the window, and communicating with the adjoining com- partment, is a slide that can be opened or closed as desired. A stand serves the double purpose of toilet and table. A tiny lamp shaded with red burns at night. You lock your door or not as you please. Outside the compartments runs an aisle the length of the car, with folding seats at the windows. Every essential comfort is afforded. The service from Berlin to St. Petersburg was excellent. Now and then several men would pass through the car. They were stolidly silent. They did not intrude upon our privacy, except in the mere act of passing. Just before we arrived at St. Petersburg, I learned that the men were agents of the se- cret police detailed to watch us. Uncon- sciously we were under Russian surveillance. The service of the car was conducted by 130 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN men who acted in the capacity of soldiers, porters or otherwise. I was surprised to see in the dining-car a man whom I supposed, from his dignity and uniform, to be an army officer. He was much in evidence looking after the comfort of the travelers. My sur- prise came at dinner, when on turning sud- denly from the window, I found my plate being taken by the man who might have been a general, or other officer of rank so far as his manner and appearance were concerned. He instantly dropped the plate, whether from pride or nervousness I never knew. It was his last appearance in the car. Night came. It was ten o'clock. The train stopped. We were at the Russian frontier. The signal was given for all to leave the train, and take their hand-bags with them. As the atmosphere of America is charged with electricity, so I felt that the Russian atmosphere was charged with inde- finable fear. On leaving the car, a line of men stood waiting to take our bags. They were a seri- ous lot. They wore queer, low beaver hats^ and long white blouses reaching below their knees, over blue cotton trousers. At the sound of a gong they took our hand-luggage. 131 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN At another sound of the gong they moved with alacrity to the room for inspection, where they hurriedly dropped the luggage and again stood in line to await instructions. It was all done with military precision. There was some difficulty in explaining to the customs officers that the luggage of our party was not subject to inspection, as ours was an official commission, and entitled by International comity to this courtesy. How- ever, It was opened just the same, and the curiosity of the officers gratified, If it was curiosity that Influenced them. Again the gong sounded, the men hurriedly shouldered the luggage, and, hat in hand, backed out of the door making a profound bow, and a sign of the cross towards the opposite end of the room. All their movements seemed Inexpli- cable. I looked to discover the meaning of It, and saw an illuminated ikon, or Image of Christ, to which each man turned before leaving the room. The Russian never forgets the observance of his religious duty. Again on the train, I discovered the com- partment Illuminated with thousands of sparks. I supposed the train was afire, for I was prepared for any horror that might 132 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN await us In Russia. I managed to sleep a little after I learned that the engine was burning soft wood, and that this was the cause of the sparks. I was too excited to sleep much, yet It seemed but a short time when the sun looked Inquiringly into our win- dow. I arose early, not wishing to lose sight of anything Russian. The first object to at- tract my attention was a family of father, mother and child, the latter not more than three years old, working together on a siding, running parallel with our track. They were removing stones from the road-bed, and were scantily clothed and bare-footed. The little tot worked with vigor, and his appearance excited my sympathy. For him. It was not play; but real work. His baby face was old beyond its years, and his brow was already lined with care. Here and there, among the bare hills and on the plains, were log houses with groups of men, women and children, bare-footed and bare-legged, their clothes hanging In rags about them. Some were In door-ways, some sleeping beside their hay ricks. Their ap- pearance betokened misery In Its most abject form. After seeing them I realized more '^33 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN fully than ever we were at last '' in Darkest Russia.'* We were on the train nearly three days, when suddenly I saw, in the dim distance, through the sunshine, the gilded domes of St. Petersburg. The sight filled me with strange delight. We reached the station at four o'clock, and were driven to the Hotel d'Europe. The person most in evidence there was a boy of ten years. He was short and sturdy looking, with midnight-like eyes. He was politeness personified. He spoke Russian, French and Italian with equal facil- ity, but no English. Judging from his dig- nity and business-like methods, he might have been the manager. He took our small lug- gage, conducted us to our rooms, and did not leave us until assured of our comfort. My first impulse was to kidnap him, if such an act was feasible. How I did want to keep him ! When I was in doubt it was the little page that directed me. His face was always sad. I am reminded as I revise these notes some weeks later, that during our stay of two weeks in St. Petersburg I never saw a smile on his remarkably handsome face. After our long railway ride, and refreshed with a good dinner, we were curious to see 134 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the city. It was then seven o'clock; but as darkness does not fall at this season until after ten o'clock, we had several hours for driving. Our little page ordered a drojka (droshki) a low, small victoria, with wheels no larger than those of a good-sized wheel- barrow. Only two people are allowed to ride In a drojka. The driver is called Izvos- chik, and his seat is just large enough to ac- commodate himself. It is very narrow and without a back. The drivers are obliged to be polite or pay a fine. They are usually polite. We took our seats. The little page gave orders as to our drive. Off the horses gal- loped. I had expected to find everything strange in Russia; but never dreamed of so wild reckless driving as one sees here. It is said that " Russian horses fling their feet to the breeze, and speed like the breath of the storm-fiend." That they are wonderfully fleet-footed there is no doubt. We drove to the beautiful Island of Cubat, where a fine view of the Bay of Finland is en- joyed. In our ride through the city I noticed in the center of the streets, at equal distances, soldiers on guard. I wondered what they 135 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN were there for as fast driving certainly is not prohibited. Our horse, at that time, seemed to be running to destruction. I learned afterwards that the soldiers were so stationed to direct traffic and to perform any other service required of them, as is the case in London and Berlin. Russia has been compared to a giant sleeping under a shroud of snow. It can be truly said that it sleeps under a shroud of sorrow. The Empire occupies one-seventh of the entire land surface of the globe, and It embraces within its limits more poverty, more misery, and more political persecution than the rest of continental Europe combined. St. Petersburg, almost within the Arctic Circle, Is built at a point where the Neva, one of the noblest rivers in Europe, flows into the Gulf of Finland. It was founded by Peter the Great, and the regularity, cleanliness and width of Its streets; the beauty of Its homes, and the number of its canals, fill the traveler who looks upon them for the first time with admiration and amazement. It contains one hundred and thirty bridges, and I am not sur- prised, for one sees them, when driving, at every turn. No European capital, excepting perhaps 136 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN London and Vienna, leaves on the mind so strong an impression of power, wealth and ostentation as St. Petersburg. July I'jth. I have been making a tour of inspection this morning through the hotel. It is built of cream-colored stone, four stories In height. The rooms are unusually large, the furniture mostly of heavy walnut. The halls have heavy double windows, the outer windows wedged with cotton batting. The inner win- dows are opened occasionally for ventilation. There are no shutters or blinds at the win- dows of the bedrooms. Heavy plush cur- tains are used in summer as in winter. The bathrooms are dark and dingy. They con- tain a small stove. When warm water Is needed it is heated on the little stove and con- veyed to the tub. At the main entrance to the hotel stands a porter who wears a long blue-cloth bath-like robe which touches the ground. It is girdled with a red cord and tassel that reaches to his feet. His head is covered with a narrow blue-cloth turban, with a band of short pea- cock feathers standing upright all around the crown. Beggars are a known quantity in St. Peters- 137 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN burg. I was strangely struck to-day, while driving, to see a man pose as a blind beggar. He was standing by a fence. Beside him was a babe in its carriage, also a little girl. The man saw, near by, people approaching towards him, and hurriedly closed his eyes, and with outstretched hands received his pit- tances. As soon as he supposed the giver was out of sight, he opened wide his eyes, and smilingly dropped the coins in his pocket. Again, he saw others coming towards him. Again his eyes were shut and out again went his pleading hand. St. Petersburg has many curious charac- ters, and one of them is the Izvostchik, or driver. Some are mere boys. All wear long navy-blue coats that fall to their feet, and are full enough to wrap twice about them. Their coat is the only wearing ap- parel many of them possess, except a blanket, as a substitute for underwear. A red, or gay- colored belt girdles the coat. Their hats are similar to the Beef-eaters of London, only much smaller. The band on the hat corresponds to their girdle. Their hair is very thick, cut short at the tips of their ears, and a " lock " brought forward over each ear, which gives them a grotesque appearance. 138 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN The harness of the horses is so light that it seems as mere ribbons of leather. A curi- ous arch-like yoke extends from one shaft to the other, which makes the animal's head ap- pear as if set in a picture frame. A fine fringe of beads falls from their foreheads over their eyes, which must fret them greatly, judging from the way they toss their heads. They whirl you over the streets with a rapidity that is startling. No Russian, however busy, or however fast his horse may run, will pass a church or an ikon without removing his hat and making the sign of the cross. Many prostrate them- selves and kiss the pavement. It is no un- usual thing, in passing a church any hour of the day, to see people kneeling singly or in groups on its steps. Their religion is the one oasis in their lives, and it attracts you strangely. The forenoon was given to a visit to the Musee des Ecuries Imperiale (the museum of state-carriages), the most wonderful in the world. Among the collection are the coronation carriage with its coat of arms set in crystals; the carriage of Elizabeth, wife of Peter the Great; ten carriages alike, used by Alexander II. on long journeys of his en- 139 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN tourage when tired of riding horse-back; the carriage of Catharine II., with Spanish dec- orations; a carriage painted by Watteau studded all over with crystals; an embalmed horse used by Peter the Great; a carriage with its shattered back in which Alexander 11. was killed by a bomb, and the state horse trappings of bejeweled red leather. July 2Sth. As we drove about the city, I was strongly impressed by the absence of people on the streets. The city was quite deserted. Many persons had gone to their summer homes, or on the continent, as Is their custom. Women of Russian cities are not supposed to enjoy the freedom of walking as we do in America. Driving is so cheap that every one except the peasants can afford the luxury. We accompanied friends to the arondisse- ment of Alexander Nevsky, one of the great- est in St.Petersburg. There are seven churches and a convent within its walls. One church, strikingly unique, has white walls. It Is filled with white tombs of many of the great per- sonages of Russia. On and about the tombs are emblems of many kinds. Including artlfi- 140 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN clal wreaths of flowers, and luxurious rugs of all sizes. Gay-colored lamps burn above many of them. Russia is the greatest country in the world for holy relics. All its churches contain many of remarkable beauty. The Cathedral of the Trinity is an eccle- siastical museum. Within a massive silver shrine are the relics of Saint Alexander Nev- sky, its sides representing in bas-relief the principal episodes in the life of the saint. Among other relics are a lamp in massive gold with tassels of fine pearls and diamonds, an offering of Catharine II., an ikon of the Nativity of the Virgin, richly ornamented in jewels, and framed in gold, and the crown of Alexander Nevsky. Outside a small chapel, void of adorn- ments, we stopped for a moment, entranced by the strains of what we supposed to be a fine organ. Entering the chapel we found a choir of male voices chanting the vesper serv- ice. Such music! We had never heard its like before. It was Gregorian. I wonder if I can properly describe the scene. The choir formed a square in the center of the room. At the farther side, and standing alone, was the leader, a young 141 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN priest, bare-headed and wearing a long black robe. On each side of the square were ten men of about the same age, and similarly at- tired. Opposite the leader stood an equal number of singers, all older and wearing long beards and long hair. On their heads were high stove-pipe shaped hats covered with a black veil which fell over their shoulders and among the folds of their robes. A perfect organ could not have produced more exquis- ite harmony than those throats gave forth. The solemnity was heightened by several women clothed in deep mourning, prostrate on the floor, their faces buried against the boards. The monks of the Russian church are con- spicuous by their long black robes and flowing hair. Their beards, also, are worn long. They aim to look as Christ-like as possible. July 20th. A party of us went to the Winter Palace of the Czar, which Is one of the largest In the world. It is superbly situated close by the rolling Neva. The stairway leading to the galleries Is of Carrara marble. One of Its rooms contains the Crown jewels, another the crystals and gold plate of Alexander I. and 142 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Alexander III., and valued belongings of Al- exander II. The magnificent imperial crown is in the form of a dome. On its sum- mit is a cross of large diamonds resting on an immense ruby. The crown of the Em- press contains the most beautiful mass of jewels ever found in a single ornament. There, also, is the precious scepter containing the celebrated Orloff diamond. Connecting with the Winter Palace is the Imperial Hermitage, which alone repays a journey to St. Petersburg. Catharine II. caused it to be built as a refuge from the cares of state. Here she received her friends, who were reminded to leave their quarrels at the door with their swords and hats. Small fines were inflicted for violation of the rules, and the money was given to the poor, who, methinks, profited little. Catharine II. was a unique character in history. She was styled " the Semiramis of the North." She was a woman of great beauty. She is quoted as saying, " I have never fancied myself extremely beautiful; but I have the art of pleasing, which I think is my greatest gift." The Hermitage is no longer a royal resi- dence; but a vast museum which represents, 143 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN not a capital, but an Empire, and stands as an exponent of the wealth, the resources, and the refined taste of the Nation and its rulers. Its agents were directed to outbid the world for treasures, and they did apparently. It contains the best Spanish pictures outside of Spain. No other art museum has so great an array of ornaments, among them vases of lapis lazuli, the art collection of Rubens, Tenier, Van Heist, Van Dyck, Watteau, in fact the highest art of every school is repre- sented. The Gallery of Peter the Great shows articles of his skill, one of them be- ing an exquisite ivory chandelier; also a real- istic life-sized statue of himself, with hair falling to his shoulders, and wearing a suit of blue and silver, his own workmanship; the gold service of Anne of Russia; and a daz- zling array of jeweled cases and Dresden china in settings of gold and jewels, the gifts of Catharine 11. July 315?. The little log house which Peter the Great built and occupied while he was governing the building of the city greatly interested me. It contains a bedroom, dining-room and kitchen,. On entering you are obliged to in- 144 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN cline your head because of the low ceiling. It contains what is said to be the holiest ikon or Image of Christ. The face, full of an- guish, Is set in a jeweled frame. It is the Ikon carried by Peter the Great in his battles, and wherever he went. From the log house we went to the old Fortress, the Bastile of Russia; and Saints Peter and Paul, the church of tombs, at the entrance of the Neva and the city. Coincident with the uprisings In Russia, and the many desperate attempts on the lives of the Royal family, one Is reminded of the remarkable tomb where Russia's royalty Is burled. A block of plain white marble marks the spot where lies an Emperor or Empress, a Grand Duke, or a Grand Duchess of Russia. The last resting-place of the reigning house of Russia is In the Cathedral Saints Peter and Paul. The remains of the Illustrious dead are not In the blocks of marble one sees. These are but solid blocks of stone. The Imperial tombs are way down In the deep, damp, dark, terrible dungeons. All the sovereigns of Russia except Peter the Great are buried there. 145 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN On the tomb of the Grand Duke Constan- tine are the keys captured by him of the for- tress In Poland. War medals lie on the block over the tomb of Emperor Alexander I. Many gilt and silver wreaths rest on the tombs of the father and grandfather of the present Czar. Great palm trees, lighted candles and jeweled ikons contribute to the gloom of the place, while the walls are cov- ered with military trophies, standards, flags, keys of captured fortresses and battle-axes taken from Turks, tribes of Asia, and all the other nations with which Russia has waged war during the last three centuries. Late this afternoon we were strolling down the Nevsky Prospect, when I saw the steps of the Cathedral of Kazan covered with red carpet. Thinking it might be a wedding, I said, " Let us see if we can get into the church." We succeeded without difficulty for the bronze doors were open. The Cathedral is built on the model of St. Peter's of Rome. Its colonnade is in a semi- circle, and contains the miraculous image of Notre Dame de Kazan to Moscow in 1579, and from Moscow to St. Petersburg by Peter the Great in 172 1. The ikon is covered with a shrine in gold, 146 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN set in jewels, among which is a magnificent sapphire. Before the altar are four immense silver chandeliers, and supporting the ceiling are sixteen columns in metal and jewels. From the walls are suspended a number of captured French, Persian and Turkish flags and keys. The Cathedral is a brilliant setting for the simplest ceremony, and is awe-inspiring for a great one. When we entered the Cathedral but few people were present. We inquired what the ceremony was to be, and were told that "a new church was born to-day in one of the provinces of Russia. The ceremony is to commemorate its birth." It was exceedingly interesting to watch the people as they entered and bought, just within the door, their candles, from a little piece an inch long, to the number and lengths their purses permitted. The candles were placed on the balustrade of the aisle through which the Bishop of Russia passed to the altar. All, after placing their candles, prostrated themselves on the floor several times in quick succession. One pretty peasant standing near us, happy in her simple fresh toilet, knelt and kissed the 147 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN floor six times. I supposed she would show signs of the exertion. She did not. When she arose the last time, her face was beatific in its religious rapture. There, noble and peasant knelt side by side on terms of equality. Suddenly the Gregorian music, chanted by a number of boys and men of all ages, pealed forth as if from an organ. They stood with- in the altar which was a dazzling illumina- tion, giving the effect of a jeweled wall. Priests in robes of white and gold, with their numerous train-bearers, assembled at the en- trance. The door was opened. The Bishop entered followed by his retinue. The priests who received him came next. The Bishop, a man more than six feet in height, and with very broad shoulders, wore a long purple cloak which reached to the floor. It was bordered with silver in Greek designs. Surmounting his head was a tall stove-pipe shaped hat with no brim. It was covered with a long purple cloth veil bor- dered also with silver in a Greek design. The veil fell far down over his mantle. The dis- tinguished party moved with great solemnity along the wide central nave to the chancel, where the character of the service incident to 148 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the celebration was not unlike that in our own Catholic churches so far as I was able to distinguish. There was this difference, however, the music was finer, the number of persons participating in the ceremonies was larger, and the setting for the occasion more rich and ornate than I had ever deemed pos- sible. It was an awe-inspiring and uplift- ing scene that I have many times recalled and always with a wish to see again. Aug. 1st. We visited the National Gallery to-day. It possesses a notably fine ceiling and collec- tion of old china and jewels, as well as a col- lection of paintings. Many of the paintings are the work of the famous artist Verest- chagin whose specialty Is war scenes. A number of these pictures were exhibited In America some years ago. After several hours spent in the Gallery we drove to the statue of Peter the Great, near the entrance to the Admiralty. The statue rests on a pedestal of uncut stone brought from Finland. The Emperor is represented on a horse which rears on his hind legs after the favorite manner of Velas- quez in well-known equestrian portraits of Ferdinand IV. 149 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN On the head of the Emperor rests a wreath of laurel. His right hand points imperiously to the Neva and the Fortress. A serpent is coiled about the feet of the horse. All Russia seems but one vast monument to the genius of Peter the Great. Another monument visited was the famous Alexander Column facing the Winter Palace. It is the pride of all Russia. It is a column of red granite eighty-four feet high. Later we visited the Admiralty, the center of the Naval Department of Russia. It is an imposing structure. Its front is a half mile in length, and from its finely decorated tower rises a slender shaft of gold, which is one of the most conspicuous objects visible on ap- proaching the city. It has been likened to a glittering exclamation point of wonder at Peter the Great's achievements, and the simile is not an inapt one. Among the many stories that illustrate the blunt frankness of Peter the Great is this: In London, on one occasion, pointing to some English barristers wearing wigs and gowns, he asked, "Who are these men?" "Law- yers! " was the reply. " Lawyers ! " repeated Peter, " what is the use of so many. I have 150 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN only two in my whole Empire, and I mean to hang one of them as soon as I return." Aug. 2nd. Our entire party were guests to-day of sev- eral of Russia's representative men. We left the Hotel d'Europe at 1 1 a. m. The Ht- tle horses seemed to have caught the spirit of the pleasure in store for us. The pace of each from the start seemed a wild chase to reach the Island of Cubat. Notwithstand- ing the reckless pace we all arrived safely. We found M. de Plevski, M. Pokotiloff, M. de Wichnaegradski, Baron Michel Me- dam, M. Pierre de Bark and M. Nicholas de Malewinski at the restaurant to receive us. Introductions followed, after which we were invited to luncheon. The tables, of which there were two, formed the letter T, though separated. We were escorted to the upper end, where all formality was laid aside, and each guest was asked to step to the table to select what he or she might wish. The table was fillpd with Russian hors d'oeuvres of many kinds. From the daintiness and appe- tizing appearance of each, the difficulty was the greater in deciding. This finished, we 151 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN were conducted to the longer table. Not knowing how to resist the polite insistence to taste so many tempting dishes, our appetites were satiated before the real luncheon, where other Russian edibles, still more elaborate, were served. At the plates for the ladies were bunches of rare roses. Toasts, wit and wine followed with sparkling rapidity. In Russia, with every toast guests are obliged to rise with glass filled to the brim. All through the luncheon could be heard strains of exquisite music. We wondered whence it came, for the musicians were not visible. Luncheon completed, we were escorted to a door close by the Neva where lay the yacht of the Minister of Finance, and from which came the exquisite strains of the Russian mandolin club that we had heard throughout the luncheon. There, in the center of the deck, was bountifully spread another table with Russian edibles and drinkables. I should explain, before proceeding far- ther, the official designation of our enter- tainers. M. de Plevski was president of the State bank of Russia, an official second only in dignity and importance to that of Minis- ter of Finance, then filled by M. de WItte, one of the ablest financiers and economists in 152 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Europe. M. de Plevski was chairman of the Russian Commission appointed to meet the American Commission. His associates Avere M. Pokotlloff, at that time manag- ing director of the Russo-Chlnese bank of Shanghai; M. de WIchnaegradskI and M. de Bark were Court chamberlains. Baron Medam and M. de Malewinski were the secretaries. Shortly after our departure from Russia M. de Plevski succeeded M. de WItte as Minister of Finance; M. de WItte later, with M. Pokotiloff as assistant, represent- ing Russia at the Portsmouth Convention where the peace negotiations between Russia and Japan were signed. Both M. de Plev- ski and M. Pokotiloff have since died. All on board, the yacht steamed away to Peterhof (the summer residence of the mem- bers of the Imperial family) by way of the Neva and the canal which enters the Gulf of Finland. After a sail of great beauty and interest we arrived at Peterhof, where we found a num- ber of landeaus In readiness, to convey us through the parks. In those for the ladles were generous boxes of choice bon-bons. We entered the park and found ourselves 153 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN in the midst of fountains rivaling in beauty those of Versailles. Peter the Great was to Peterhof what Louis XIV. was to Versailles. He employed thousands of men to construct palaces, ave- nues, villas and canals. Beautiful statues and Roman ruins stand as white sentinels throughout the park. The fountain of " Mountain of gold " with its water flowing over a flight of gilded steps, nymphs, river gods and heroes of mythology figuring in them, is, at sunset, a scene of unusual beauty. One of the remarkable rooms of the Pal- ace is paneled with several hundred pictures of beautiful young women painted for Catha- rine 11. The room with the mantel, mirrors, fire- place, ornaments and its chandelier, with triple rows of burners, all in Sevres*, and the room in Dresden which corresponds to the room in Sevres, are remarkable in their ele- gant appointments. The home of Peter the Great, its Chinese room, and dining-room with mantels covered with scrolls on which are tiny brackets con- taining cups and bowls, is unique. One of the most strikingly beautiful build- ings on the island is the Palais Belvidere 154 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN which crowns the summit of a hill. It is of white marble, its four sides supported by Cor- inthian columns. One would suppose it to be a Greek Temple placed there did one not know that all art in Russia is Russian. When several hours had been spent in driv- ing over the island with its fascinatingly at- tractive white marble buildings, fountains and lakes, we boarded the yacht, sailing back to St. Petersburg with the mandolin music, the setting sun and full moonlight for supper set- tings. Aug. '^rd. The first object to attract me this morning was a man, in a singular way, scrubbing a floor. His right foot was swathed in rags. His right hand was placed on the knee to govern the foot which he dipped into a bucket of water. He then scrubbed the floor with his foot, of which he made a scrubbing brush. I wanted to tell him an easier way, but as there was no brush with which to demon- strate,, I passed on, wondering why he did not use a simpler method — a brush. On leaving the hotel, I discovered an equally primitive method of paving the 155 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN streets. The men sat on the ground. Their feet were bundled in rags. Their heels were placed together. Between the soles of their feet were big stones. A huge hammer was used to shape the stones to their places, and that Is the custom of paving the streets of Russia. Yet another strange custom is that of a hotel porter twisting a big cloth through the handle of a trunk, by which he carries the trunk on his back. Next to interest me were the shops, where German Is generally spoken. French Is spoken by few of the shop-keepers, and Eng- lish seldom, if ever. If you have a driver who understands Russian only, and you know sufficient Rus- sian to say yaprara and nyaprara (right and left) you are fortunate, otherwise you are likely to be lost as was one of our party, until he finally succeeded In finding a gendarme who rescued him from his dilemma. When a driver possesses a faint knowledge of French, and mixes it with his Russian, you are blessed if you can make yourself suffi- ciently understood to get back safely to the hotel. The day of our arrival we were given cards 156 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN with an Illustration of the hotel. In the event of our driver not understanding our de- sire to return to the hotel, we were told to show him the card. If he failed to recognize the picture I found yaprara and nyaprara most useful, if I did have to use it at every corner until my destination was reached. The mental poverty of the mass of peasants Is as abject as is their material poverty. Aug. 4.th. This morning we visited the Church of St. Isaac, which was forty years building at a cost exceeding forty million rubles (twenty million dollars). Each step to the entrance Is a gigantic block of rose granite. Before Its altar screen are ten columns of malachite and pillars of lapis lazuli. Its steps are of polished jasper. Its rails of alabaster. Its portraits of saints and Its shrines are set In gold Incrusted with jewels. One image of Christ is studded with diamonds. The church Is so magnificent that it must be seen to be fully appreciated. I can find no words to do It justice. Leaving the Church of St. Isaac we drove by the equestrian statue of the Czar Nicho- las, an ideal Russian autocrat, a civilized 157 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Peter the Great. The statue stands in one of the finest squares of St. Petersburg. While we luncheoned I chanced to look out of the window just in time to see a member of the Royal household passing. He was dressed in the conventional afternoon suit. Sharply contrasting with his quiet attire was the appearance of his coachman and footman. Their coats were a mass of gold embroidery. They wore the continental shaped hat, also heavily embroidered in gold. Each wore his hat differently, the coachman with the points at the sides, the footman with the points front and back. Aug. ^th. To-day while driving we passed a cata- falque. It was on very small wheels, and covered with a superb pall of gold. It was drawn by four horses caparisoned in heavy black cloth, with nodding black plumes. At the head of each horse, and at the sides of the catafalque, were monks with their trail- ing black cloaks, and pipe-like hats and long black veils. The outlines of the form could be seen through the cloth. It was a striking scene of black and gold as it moved slowly through the streets. This afternoon after I had visited an ar- 158 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN cade, I strolled on the Nevsky Prospect. The street was almost deserted. Always eager for a new sensation, I was gratified when I saw coming towards me the strangest looking woman I have ever seen. She was fully six feet high. If not higher, and as straight as a grenadier. Her clothes were markedly sim- ple. On her head she wore a tiny cloth hat void of trimming. It was shaped like the toy hats that I have seen children make of paper to represent soldier hats. It was nar- row, and pointed In front and back. Her heavy suit of hair was combed plainly off her finely featured face. Her eyes ! They fairly hypnotized me. I have never seen their like, very large and almond shaped. Such eyes, I fancy, as the Andaluslans only possess. The longer I looked at her, the larger I felt my own eyes growing. Alas ! It was only while under the " spell " of her gaze that they grew, as my first glance In the mirror after seeing her convinced me that they were just the same as before I met her. A smile played about her lips as she passed me. She evidently saw that she had fasci- nated me. I did so much want to ask her to tell me who and what she was. In all my travels I have seen no one like her. 159 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN This evening we dined at a typical Russian restaurant on the Nevsky Prospect. We were asked If we would have hot or cold soup. As the day was unusually warm, we decided to take cold soup. It was promptly served. First a slice of sal- mon was placed In the plate. Over that was poured a thick brown soup. We looked on it with fear and trembling. It contained mutton, carrots, prunes and small pieces of Ice. That was our first cold soup, the national soup of Russia, called " chtchl." A sip was sufficient. With the dinner were served cucumbers, a la Russe. They are short, thick and yellow, frozen and served whole, peeled and eaten with salt only. They are called " ogourtzis." The custom of drinking tea from glasses set in silver cups is peculiarly Russian and tempting. Aug. "jth. We left last night for Moscow, where we arrived early this morning. The road-bed between the two cities Is so smooth, that travel over it Is a railway luxury. It Is also the stralghtest railway In the world. There Is not a curve In it. The story of its construc- tion is an old one. It Is related that when 1 60 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Emperor Nicholas decided to build It, he asked his engineers to draw the plans and specifications. When they were completed and laid before the Emperor for his ap- proval, he saw that they had arranged to run the line through many of the important vil- lages and towns between the two terminals, the Idea being, I presume, to give as many places as possible the benefit of rail connec- tion with the old and the new capitals. This was not the Emperor's thought. His inten- tion was to get the shortest line of communi- cation, presumably for military purposes. The commercial side of the enterprise did not appeal to him. Picking up a ruler that lay on his desk, he so placed it on the map as to connect the two cities by the shortest route, and quietly said, " Build it so! " There was nothing to do but to obey, and the result is a railway unique In modern engineering. As we drove from the railway station to the hotel I was Insensibly reminded of Wash- ington. This was, perhaps, more an associa- tion of ideas than of any actual similarity be- tween the two cities. In Washington we have the sharply contrasting evidences of wealth and poverty, standing side by side as, for ex- ample, a palatial residence with a plain, sin- i6i FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN gle-story, wooden "shack" for neighbor. So, too, in Moscow. Before a finely propor- tioned church with lofty towers and brilliant domes. Is located the hut of a blacksmith. Miserable hovels, which we should expect to find in the outskirts of a town, stand forth in Moscow beside a palace or a cathedral, just as a Russian peasant, whose rags are redolent with the odors of time, unconscious of his filthlness, stands beside a man cleanly dressed. Moscow, the many-colored meeting ground of many nationalities, is first mentioned In the chronicles of 1137. It is farther east than Jerusalem. Like Constantinople, it is situ- ated where two great divisions of our globe, the Orient and the Occident, forever " gaze Inquiringly into each other's eyes." It is the ancient capital of Russia, the city with the white walls, full of a strange symphony of colors, of points, campaniles, bulbs, domes and gold crosses. It is the saint city of Rus- sia, and one of the most irregularly built cities in the world. The center of the most attract- ive part is in the form of a hemlcycle. The streets are very wide. It has no resemblance to any other city of Europe. The Influence of Western Europe makes itself felt here. It 162 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN is the only city of the Interior of Europe where so many natlonahties are represented. The French costume dominates ; but the mou- jlk with his long beard, his boots of bark, his patched Turkish garments ; the priest with his brown robe, his black cap, his long hair and beard, the Tartars and Turks, Greeks and Persians with long red cloaks and red fez, also are conspicuous. Within the walls of Moscow are the Impe- rial and most sacred temples of the Empire. These, with their gilded domes and varl-col- ored roofs and walls above the Kremlin bat- tlements, present a veritable galaxy of splen- dor. The old Kremlin, a sort of fortress on a high hill, In the center of the city, is in the form of a triangle, and embraces one-fourth of the city. It is a vast assemblage of churches, palaces, monuments, surrounded by an Immense red brick wall embattled with towers. The wall was constructed In 1534. No foreigner can look upon the Kremlin without deep emotion, and as for the Russian peasants, whenever they approach it, and see its gilded turrets gleaming like golden hel- mets in the sun, they often fall upon their knees and weep for joy, moved to ecstasy of religious fervor, like that which thrilled 163 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the hosts of the Crusaders when they first gazed upon Jerusalem. It is in the Kremlin that the Emperor re- ceives his religious consecration. There are the bells of Ivan Velosky that announce to the people that the Emperor has taken posses- sion of the throne of his fathers. A proverb says " Above Moscow there is only one Kremlin. Above the Kremlin there is only one sky." The union so characteristic of all Russia, of the temporal and spiritual power, is no- where more characteristic than here with its numerous churches surrounding the Imperial Palaces. You enter the Kremlin by five gates, all curious by their style, or the historic remem- brance of them. The Saint Sauveur (Savior) gate is sur- mounted with a Gothic tower on the summit of which perches the Eagle of Russia. Its horologe dates from the time of Peter the Great. Above its entrance is the image of Saint Sauveur brought from Smolensk in 1674, by the Czar Alexes Mikailovitch. The image, or ikon, is the palladium of the Krem- lin. The Church Saint Sauveur, which com- 164 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN memorates the expulsion of the French from Russia, is the most famous and the most beautiful in the Kremlin. It is there the Emperor first goes on his entry into Moscow. It is of delicate cream color, standing forth in beautiful relief against the blue sky. Its roof is surmounted with a balustrade of gilded bronze. Its form is that of a Greek cross. It is particularly beautiful when its gilded domes are glittering in the long fas- cinating twilight which makes Russia so at- tractive. Its walls are covered with Siberian jasper, porphyry, malachite, alabaster and many incrustations of jewels. Near the cen- ter of the Kremlin is the Church of the As- sumption, or sacred place of the Empress, in which is interred the ancient patriarchs of Russia, and where all the Czars from Ivan the Terrible to the present sovereign have been crowned. It has a gigantic dome in the center, and four smaller ones at the corners. In the Cathedral of the Archangel, oppo- site the Assumption, are interred the Czars, predecessors of Peter the Great, his brother Ivan and Peter the II. It is in the Cathedral of the Annunciation, full of wonderful beauty in color and treas- 165 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ures, that the baptisms and marriages take place. It has nine domes, each surmounted by a gilt cross. It is said the churches of Moscow were more frequently endowed with jewels than with money, which accounts for their regal display. The Church of St. Basil, erected over the grave of St. Basil the blessed, the most origi- nal building in the world, stands out in strong relief. St. Basil was a popular prophet and miracle worker more than three centuries ago. The especial glory of the building is its coloring of red, yellow, green, blue, violet, gold and silver blended in one amazing mass. From the roof rises eleven towers in the col- ors named, yet each cupola is different. It is said of this church, that after its completion Ivan the Cruel caused the eyes of the archi- tect to be burned out that he might not again be able to reproduce its like. Another legend says the Czar asked the originator if he could not build a still more beautiful church, and upon his reply in the affirmative, his head was cut off, so that St. Basil might remain unrivalled forever. Close by St. Basil is the Redeemer's gate, having above its entrance an image of Christ. i66 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN It is so sacred that all persons passing be- neath it are supposed to raise their hats. The most prominent of the Kremlin struc- tures is the Ivan Tower. It contains not fewer than thirty-six bells, two of which are of silver, while the largest weighs one hun- dred and thirty thousand pounds. The Treasury of Moscow is where the riches containing precious objects and jewels of the Czars have been kept since 1645. They consist of regalia, state costumes, vases, magnificent armament, horse trap- pings, state carriages and presents received from time to time from sovereigns of other countries. The crowns, thrones and orna- ments of Imperial costumes, and the gold and silver plate of Czars have a character of solid splendor. Two notably regal thrones are the ivory throne used at the coronation of Nicholas I, and the throne used at the coronation of Al- exander 11. , which was brought from Persia in 1660. It is superbly studded with dia- monds, rubies, turquoises and pearls. A can- opy of golden brown crowns its summit. In the richly gilded chair is wrought in jewels the double-headed eagle of the Empire. It was Napoleon who said, " What is a 167 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN throne, a few boards covered with gold and velvet? No! the real throne is man." Just before leaving the Kremlin I stood near the edge of the wall, and again viewed the city below, with the river running its ser- pentine course close by the green-roofed mod- est homes. Here and there old men and women, singly and in groups, with scarcely sufficient clothing to cover them; bare-legged and bare-footed, with a little bundle of be- longings fastened to a stick which rested on their shoulders, wended their way up over the hills to their Mecca, the Kremlin. Within the church, with weariness of mind and body, they laid their little bundles beside them, and, after a little while on bended knees, they arose and went, whither no one could say. In Moscow it is no unusual sight to see the steps and entrances to churches filled way into and through the night with pilgrims. Their reverence for the church is their one touch of happiness. When one remembers their dire poverty, and knows that many of them are huddled together in one room, oftentimes with beasts, and that they subsist mainly on black bread and sour soup, their discontent is not to be wondered at. We are greatly indebted to M. Malavin- i68 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ski, whose father Is an official of Moscow, and who accompanied us from St. Peters- burg, In order that he might show us the rar- est wonders of this most unique city, for the great pleasure we are enjoying, pleasures not enjoyed by the average traveler; but given only to those who have official Influence. On leaving the Kremlin I said to M. Malavlnski, " How gloriously oriental Is Moscow!" He replied, "It Is not orien- tal, Mrs. Guthrldge. It Is Moscow." He was quite right; no city outside of the Orient could be more oriental. It possesses more picturesque grandeur than St. Petersburg, and artistically Is of far greater Interest than Its rival. There, as In St. Petersburg, one meets the extremes of so- cial life. In no country so much as Russia are to be seen the " lower ten rrillllon, and the upper ten thousand." The cultivated Rus- sians are. In social Intercourse, the flower of good breeding. They are not only well man- nered and well born; but they are linguists without peers. They have polish, and per- fect urbanity. They have a genius for for- eign languages, and one will find few. If any, high-class Russians who do not speak at least three languages besides their own. These 169 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN are French, German and English. And the amazing thing Is, that each language Is spoken with equal facility. They are ac- quainted with the slightest details of our lan- guage, and their understanding of Idiomatic English Is quite equal to our own. The Russian of the " lower ten million '' Is Ignorant and debased to the last degree. Few of this element can read or write. To us they are absurdly superstitious. Their In- telligence seems not to be superior to the cat- tle of the fields. Between the two extremes Is a middle class of nouveau-rlche who, If re- port speaks truly, far exceed In vulgar osten- tation the same class In our own country. Before leaving " Holy mother Moscow with the white walls," as It Is sometimes called, which Napoleon's army, after a weary march of nearly two thousand miles, cheered with a frenzy of enthusiasm when its vista burst upon their view, we drove to Swallow hill. It was there Napoleon stood and viewed the burning of Moscow which the Russians themselves destroyed that their idol might not fall Into the hands of the French conqueror, the Invincible Corslcan. There we stood and saw Moscow, semi-clr- cular above the Mokva River, spanned by a 170 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN beautiful rainbow. The scene was indescrib- ably beautiful as the soft colors of the rain- bow mingled with the coloring and gilded domes of the " white city." Our last thrilling experience In Moscow came when we were driven from the hotel to the station. I wondered why the horses were so excited at our departure, when It dawned upon me, and I exclaimed, " It Is a race as to which droshki shall reach the station first." So it proved, and our droshki was second at the station. After so reckless a drive we waved our adieux to Moscow, and were soon speeding back to St. Petersburg. Aug. loth. We took the steamer at 3.30 this after- noon for Stockholm, a journey of forty-eight hours. Our boat is a trim little craft, flying the Danish colors; but as completely under Russian domination, within Russian waters, as If the flag at her peak bore the royal en- sign of the Czar. The time has now come when I can prop- erly speak at length about the detestable sys- tem of espionage that prevails throughout the Russian Empire. From the moment of our arrival we have been " shadowed " by 171 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN emissaries of the police. They were with us on the train from Berlin to St. Petersburg, and we met them at every turn in the corri- dors of the Hotel d'Europe. The annoyance to which we were subjected was, however, in the matter of passports. We were cautioned before leaving Berlin not to lose our pass- ports as we would find travel in Russia a diffi- cult proceeding without them. So it proved. Before our departure for Moscow they were carefully collected by one of our party, and handed to the agent of the police at the hotel for his vise. This was done twenty-four hours in advance of our starting. When we arrived in Moscow, we notified the police of- ficials of the length of time we should remain, and again they were vised accordingly. Had we chosen to extend our stay, or to shorten it, further changes would have been neces- sary before we would have dared to move. To an American, free to go and come as he pleases, such methods are extremely irritat- ing, " like the pebble In the shoe," as one of the men expresses it. To-day we have a repetition of it. Yes- terday the time of our sailing was given to the police, and our passports were again stamped in conformity with our plans. But 172 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN were they delivered to us when we sailed? Not at all. Instead, they were taken in charge by the police agent at the hotel, and by him sent to another agent at the wharf. This man retained them until a moment be- fore the gang-plank was drawn in when they were handed to the purser. The purser re- ceipted for them, and will be held responsible for their safe-keeping until we are outside of Russian waters, which will be after we leave Helsingfors, when they will again be re- turned to us. At seven o'clock to-night we made our first landing. Two men went ashore, and a few boxes of freight were unloaded on the wharf. We expected to continue our journey without further delay as there was apparently no one to come aboard. But the captain gave no signal, and soon an hour passed and the ship gave no sign of departure. American-like we were impatient to be off, and when I met the captain a little later I inquired the cause of delay. He told me that there was some irregularity in the passport of one of the men who had gone ashore, and that he dared not leave until it had been corrected at St. Peters- burg, if we laid there a week. To do other- wise would bring him into conflict with the 173 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN authorities, and result in a heavy fine against the steamship company; with the certain loss of his position. At the end of another hour a cable from St. Petersburg informed the captain that he could go ahead, which he im- mediately proceeded to do. Aug. nth. The last object of interest we saw close by St. Petersburg, and before sailing into the Baltic Sea, was Cronstadt, and its fortress sit- uated near the border of the Gulf of Finland. The largest .of its ports is great enough to contain one thousand vessels. The city is surrounded with ramparts of earth, as a pre- caution against inundations of water. When the hour came for dinner we were all seated at one long table. It was a help- yourself dinner, as there were only two wait- resses, and they were kept busy replenishing dishes as quickly as they were emptied. Everything was hot and plentiful. In the center of the table stood a large samovar filled with vodka. I had heard the term " fire-water " used for whisky, and it applies equally well to vodka, which tastes like whisky with a generous infusion of red-pep- per. 174 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Aug. 1 2th. We arrived at Helsingfors this morning. I had been told that the Baltic was " a bit nasty" at times, and so It was for us; but happily for a short time only. I was willing to be tried a little for the experience of a sail on the Baltic Sea; but I was glad that the sail was no longer. Helsingfors, the capital of Finland, and which the Finns say is one of two cities that constitute the brains of Finland, commands a beautiful situation. Its environs are most attractive with Its Imperial Palace and park, ancient fortifications and Islands, on which are charming villas. It Is a modern city, and thoroughly progressive. It Is strikingly clean. A stranger everywhere meets with studied politeness. Every peasant raises his hat to you with the quiet dignity of an equal. Its market-place Is picturesque. It Is situ- ated In the center of a street. Each stand Is covered with a white canopy. The market women, tidily dressed, wear large quaint white bonnets which flap over their ears. They sit at their stalls knitting, or sewing, the mise en scene being that of a charity ba- zaar, rather than that of a market day. After a stay of several hours, which Included a 175 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN drive about the city, we set sail for Stock- holm. We were both sorry and glad — sorry to leave the beautiful waters so soon, and glad to arrive at Stockholm. Aug. iph. When we had finished a leisurely breakfast this morning, the captain told us our sea-trip was nearly at an end. The fortified Islands hard by the harbor give one a sense of per- fect protection from Invading foes. The en- trance to the port Is a scene of great beauty. As the boat wended Its way around and about the Islands with their quaintly pleasing cottages, we were suddenly confronted with Stockholm at the head of the waters. Stockholm Is a city of waters, and has one of the finest hotels, and one of the best situa- tions In the world. You can sit on the bal- cony of the hotel and look across the lake, to the Palace of the King, on Its lofty terrace. Boats continually pass up and down the lake, yet no whistle disturbs Its serenity. The King's Palace Is most home-like. Its ap- pointments are rare without being lavish. The walls of the living-rooms are ornamented with hand carving. The dining-room con- tains the greatest collection of Sevres, dear to 176 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN the lovers of porcelain, in the world. The walls are literally covered with platters and vegetable dishes of Sevres which stand on huge brackets. The cosy corner of the Palace is on the roof where the King can escape visitors when so disposed, be alone with the stars, listen to the music everywhere below him, and enjoy the beauty scenes of the island sans etre in- ter rompu. Hard by the Palace is a little island, where every afternoon and evening you hear the choicest selections from opera, or strains from Strauss without cost to the listener. At night its brilliantly lighted barges filled with pleasure seekers cover the surface of the placid waters. The stolid people of Stockholm share with the Dutch a love of pleasures. At any open- air restaurant one is sure of a fine musical treat. Aug. i^th. Stockholm, like her sister-cities, is full of historic interest. Near the bank of the lake, is the Riddarholm church, or church of tombs, in which service is held only when a member of the reigning house is brought for burial. It is draped with faded battle flags, 177 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN and a multitude of tattered trophies, pyra- mids of drums and trumpets. Unusually pretty pictures on the streets are the girls In their native costume, which Is composed of a very short skirt of dark color with bands of bright ribbons, a gaily-col- ored apron, white waist with black bodice, trimmed with Swedish colors. High peaked black velvet caps also with Swedish colored ribbons complete the fetching costume. The native dance of Sweden Is to be seen at a late hour every afternoon In the park. There, under the spreading trees, nature, mu- sic and an enthusiastic company of people in- spire them. The dancers receive as pay the proceeds from the sale of seats surrounding the platform on which they appear. If one chooses to stand, the dancing can be seen for nothing. The dance Is filled with coy move- ments. It Is fascinatingly pretty. In the shops the sales-women are markedly polItQ, and exert every effort to please you. After you have paid for your purchase they make a delightfully quaint curtsy and ac- company It with " tack " (tark) , which signi- fies "thank you!" In Europe It Is not unusual to be thanked in return for your thanking. 178 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN The one thing that has greatly impressed me in our various travels is the politeness and consideration shown us. I have heard it said many times, by Americans, sad to relate, that this politeness is merely a surface polish. It is a singularly agreeable veneer. Aug. i6th. We spent to-day traveling through a wild, rugged country dotted with lakes, with here and there groups of homes built upon rocks, and occasionally a village of quaintly pretty homes. It is astonishing, the knowledge of Eng- lish one finds in Europe. In Sweden, for in- stance, one would expect to find English spoken only by the better educated, or by those whose business makes a knowledge of English a necessity. Yet, to our surprise^ we find that three of the four Swedes who occupy the railway carriage in common with us, speak excellent English. Two of these were men, one of them being a clergyman; the other a mechanic. The third was a lady, well along in middle life, and of comely ap- pearance. The clergyman's English was ex- ceptionally good, and he rendered us great assistance in explaining to the conductor a 179 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN misunderstanding about our baggage checks, for, over here, when you pay the railway company for excess baggage, your dealings, en route, are with the conductor only. When he left us we fell back on the Eng- lish of the mechanic, and, later, upon that of the old lady. She could not understand my husband; she said he talked too fast for her; but she understood me because I spoke slowly and carefully separated my words. Her English was grammatical and her vocabulary fair, yet she had never been in an English- speaking country; she had learned English at school and had never forgotten it. Our newly made Swedish friends told us that English had been one of the courses of study in the public schools for the last twen- ty-five years, and that every child was re- quired to learn it. This explains the preva- lence of English in the North countries, for, I fancy, the rule is enforced also in Den- mark and Norway. Aug. ijth. We arrived in Copenhagen at noon to-day. Our room at the hotel is decidedly quaint. It is very large with a low slanting ceiling. It is lighted by a single window, a huge pane of glass set In an iron frame. In opening the i8o FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN window I found the glass separated from Its frame leaving the frame stationary. In strolling through Copenhagen, one sees a great variety of gableS), dormer windows and quaint carvings. Statues of dogs sur- prised me as I saw them on the corners of roofs at every turn. The dog, so dear to the hearts of the natives of Germany and Hol- land, Is conspicuous here by Its absence, and this Is why their statues surprised me so much. So serious a people are the Danes that a smile on their faces startles you. The glory of Copenhagen Is Thorwaldsen. It Is the city of his birth. The museum Is filled with creations of his genius. Among Its treasured relics Is his modeling stand and tools, and an unfinished bust of Luther, on which he worked a few hours before his death. Copenhagen, a city of the North, founded more than three hundred years ago. Is little frequented. I wonder why! It contains much of Interest to lovers of travel In the Old World. Perhaps Its remoteness accounts for the few travelers one meets in Its wide and park-like streets. The peasants, always a picturesque feature i8i FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN of foreign cities, are, in Copenhagen, the nurses. Their dress consists of the usual short skirts, gay plaid aprons, corresponding kerchiefs about their shoulders, and quaintly tied handkerchiefs of the same material on their heads. Others wear dainty colored skirts with white aprons and very large white caps. The dress of the Danes of the upper class does not differ from that of our own. Aug, i()th. We took a boat last night for Kiel. We remained only a few hours, as we were eager to get on to Hamburg. Kiel is one of the oldest towns in Germany. It is picturesquely situated in one of the best havens of Europe. It is the chief harbor of Germany, and the headquarters of the Army and Navy. Here, also, are sailed the national and interna- tional regattas. We arrived in Hamburg this morning. Hamburg ranks with London, Liverpool and New York in commercial importance. Its harbor, where one sees many vessels from all quarters of the globe, presents a busy and picturesque appearance. Its greatest attrac- tion is its Alster-Bassin, a river running irreg- ularly through the city; bounded by quays 182 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN planted with fine old trees. All along Its border are palatial residences separated by beautifully kept lawns and gardens. After breakfasting, and a drive about the city and its environs, we returned in time to take the train for Flushing. The ride en route was full of beauty and new interest. We rode all afternoon through forests of fir, and over fields of purple heather. Now and then would loom up a quaint black and white cross-barred house nestling in a lovely valley. Wc were detained several hours by a break on the train when but a few miles from Flush- ing. There were many passengers bound also for England, and we were all on the qui- vive to know if the boat at Flushing would wait for us. Night shut out our view of the charming little Flemish village when we ar- rived; but the boat was our first considera- tion; and we were compelled to " hustle " to get aboard with our belongings. Almost breathless from our haste we found ourselves tucked away In our state-room, and steaming across the calm channel, bound for Queens- boro. The boat was at the wharf this morning when I came on deck. There was the usual commotion among the porters, who were ban- 183 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN dling the luggage checked for London with a rapidity that even their American brothers would envy. It was only a step from the boat to the train, where we found ourselves a few minutes later in a comfortable second- class carriage with two English ladies and a man as the other occupants. It was very re- freshing to be back again on English soil after our long weeks of travel on the Conti- nent, where we had heard as many different languages as were represented, perhaps, at the Tower of Babel. For an American properly to appreciate England, it is only necessary to visit some of the other countries of Europe and then return to the " tight little isle " of song and story. If an American feels at home anywhere outside of his own country, it is here in King Edward's land. Aug. 20th. A sweet " bit " of travel to-day was the miles and miles of rocks covered with pink clover. At noon we are in London again, that stupendous climax to the island of old England. We are domiciled at the Russell Square Hotel. A daintier hostelry it would be difficult to find. The meals are exqui- sitely served, and superior in quality. The 184 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN atmosphere of the house is refined and re- poseful. We hke it best of all the hotels we have seen in London. Aug, 22nd. We went by 'bus to-day to Hampton Court, the seat of the largest royal palace in Great Britain. Since the time of George II., Hampton Court has ceased to be a royal residence. More than eight hundred of its one thousand rooms are now occupied in suites by aristocratic pensioners of the Crown. Its gallery holds an interesting collection of " Hampton Court Beauties " or ladies of the Court of William and Mary; also the " Windsor Beauties " of the Court of Charles II. A floral feature of the park is the avenue more than a mile in length of blooming horse chestnuts said to be unrivalled in England. Aug. 2'^rd. We are to-day in this tranquil old town of Leamington, which is conspicuous for its profusion of foliage. It is charmingly situ- ated near its sister city Warwick, distant but two miles from it. It is a city of straight 185 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN and wide avenues and streets, planned with almost American precision. It was Nathan- iel Hawthorne, if I mistake not, who said, " It is a place of charm which is always in flower." How delightful is the old-fashioned inn at which we are staying ! Not a sound disturbs its quiet. People come and go speaking in muffled tones. You would think a corpse was in the house, so hushed is every one. You, too, catch the spirit of silence, and are almost frightened at the sound of your own voice. Aug. 2^th. It poured in torrents this morning but this did not prevent our ride to Stratford-on- Avon, the birth-place of Shakespeare, whose home has been so frequently restored that its real age seems incredible. It is a lonely looking place. No trees, no gardens about it, no avenue leading to it. The sole decora- tion of Shakespeare's room is the names of visitors scribbled everywhere on the walls and woodwork, giving it the appearance of a room of autographs. One gets nearest to the personality of Shakespeare In the walk across the fields to the cottage of Anne Hathaway, which is a i86 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN characteristic farm house of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Our impulse was to halt at the threshold, for fear of disturbing the lovers, forgetful for the moment that their voices were stilled. Stratford-on-Avon is almost the same to- day with its ancient timbered houses, elm- shaded and rose-embowered, as it was when Shakespeare entertained " rare " Ben Jonson. The curfew still rings at dusk, the town-crier still makes his rounds, bell in hand. After a stroll through the narrow winding streets, we visited Trinity Church where Shakespeare worshipped. It is filled with beautiful memorial windows. My eyes dropped suddenly from the coloring of the windows to the exquisite bust of Shakespeare beneath which lies a gray slab of stone bear- ing the inscription: Good friend for Jesus sake forbear To dig the dust inclosed here, Blest he the man that spares these stones, And curst he he who moves my bones. So through the centuries the bard of Avon has slept undisturbed. Close by the church flows the river Avon 187 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN like a silver ribbon, threading Its way for miles through velvety meadows. The very trees along its border seem in sympathy with its placid nature, and bend low over its sur- face as if to preserve Its quiet undisturbed. Marie Corelli, who is perhaps the best known of the English novelists of the pres- ent day, and who had in Queen Victoria an enthusiastic admirer, lives in Stratford. Her house is a rose-covered cottage on one of the principal streets, and is one of the objects of interest of this charmingly picturesque old town. Aug. 2^th. To-day we drove by coach to Kenilworth, the loveliest of England's ruined castles. There are few places In England I have so much desired to see as this ancient pile, around which the great Scotch novelist has written one of his most fascinating romances. The Castle was a ruin In the early years of the last century when Scott wrote " Kenil- worth "; In which is related the love story of the Earl of Leicester and the unhappy Amy Robsart. In Elizabeth's day It was one of the state- liest and noblest structures in all England. I stood to-day before the crumbling walls i88 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN and broken turrets of Kenilworth, to restore it again in fancy, and to people it with the distinguished men and the beautiful women whose lives formed so conspicuous an element of the Court of the Virgin Queen. And as I continued to look upon it I remembered how Scott, contrasting its decay with its former grandeur, uses the circumstance to moralize upon the transitory character of earthly things. Following the same train of thought there came into my mind also those oft-quoted lines of Shakespeare, '' Great Casar, dead and turned to clay, Might stop a hole to keep the wind away J* So long as life is beautiful, it is better to be a live peasant than a dead ruler. We spent several hours roaming about the grounds, and studying the effect of the en- throned and dethroned who had once gaily reveled in its halls, and which, later, Crom- well's soldiers dismantled and ruined. It was a scene we were loth to leave, for its ro- mantic and historical associations combine to make it one of the most fascinating spots in all England. After Kenilworth, we visited Warwick 189 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Castle. At the last bend In the walk you are suddenly confronted with the Castle of Warwick, whose foundation was laid near the close of the loth century. The ancient and stately homes of the Earls of Warwick Is one of the most picturesque feudal residences In England. The oldest and most Interesting part Is the huge Cassar Tower, said to have been built soon after the Roman Conquest. On one of Its Ivied towers Is an ancient sun- dial, which gives the hour just as It did to the lords and ladles who rode beneath it centu- ries ago. The history of Warwick Castle Is almost as old as the history of England Itself. Earls of Warwick that have successively held that title have played their part in most of the dramas of English history. They have been hosts of Kings, and also their exe- cutioners. They have dictated the policy of their country, and they have perished miser- ably on the scaffold. This is not a right pleasant memory of leafy Warwick, one of the most lovely of English counties, which presents great attractions for the student, the rambler and the tourist. It Is equally fasci- nating for the historian. Early in its history It was the scene of 190 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN many stirring episodes, and it has seen the coming and going of many royal guests. Here, Queen Elizabeth was entertained on two occasions. There is a tradition that Amy Robsart was once a guest within its walls. Since those days the Castle has remained a peaceful residence. It is situated close by the bridge spanning the Avon. It is sur- rounded with pleasure grounds of great beauty. The main entrance is through an embattled gate-way, which leads to the Cas- tle courtyard by a winding road cut for a dis- tance of some hundred yards through solid sandstone, picturesquely overhung by shrubs and creepers, and shaded with noble trees that hug one another like bosom friends. The Castle contains an almost unrivalled collection of art treasures by Rubens, Van Dyck, Raphael, and Rembrandt, and many curios of the feudal ages. This ancient feudal Castle was also the scene of many tragedies and pageants in the dark ages, down to the golden age of Eliza- beth; and lovers of the past will recognize in it one of the finest monuments of ancient splendor in England, which happily remains unimpaired by time. 191 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN Aug. 26th. We arrived at Oxford to-day. It is our second visit, and our stay must be short, as we are booked to sail from Liverpool September 9th, and still have much to see. It was here at Oxford, a city of pinnacles and groves, that King Alfred lived a thou- sand years ago, and here was born Richard the Lion Hearted, mightiest of all the mighty warriors that England sent to the Crusades during the middle ages. And here, too, where we are staying, is the Crown Inn where Shakespeare spent his nights when jour- neying between Stratford-on-Avon and Lon- don. Oxford's educational prominence explains Its influence over the minds of men. Twenty- four colleges with cloistered court-yards and sculptured windows, and quaint gables are scattered over the ancient town. From Christ Church College were graduated many men famous In English history, among whom were Thomas Moore, Ben Jonson, the Duke of Wellington, Ruskin and Gladstone, and the list might be extended Indefinitely. Conspicuous among the colleges Is Mag- dalen College with its graceful, yet singularly venerable towers, embowered In verdure, 192 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN where one gets lovely glimpses of river scen- ery and wooded landscape; which Old An- tony a Wood quaintly extols as " pleasant meadows shadowed with trees." After exploring the beauties of Magdalen College one must admit that it is one of the most attractive and enjoyable places, not only in Oxford, but in all England. An interesting Tower is the Tom Tower which contains " Great Tom," a bell that tolled, in days agone, a curfew of one hun- dred and one strokes as a signal to close the gates. No spot in England offers so perfect a combination of Arcadian simplicity of nature and perfect old Gothic art as Oxford. No- where can one breathe an atmosphere of such mental sweetness and repose as is found here. Aug. 2<)th. We are somewhat disappointed in Brighton. It is difficult to say just what we expected it to be. We had heard it was quite unlike our Atlantic City. We knew it was larger than Trouville without Trouville's delicate coloring. It cannot be compared with either. It is really a fine, handsome city rising almost abruptly from the water's 193 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN edge to a conislderable height. To get to the principal streets well upon the hills one is compelled to wind back and forth somewhat after the fashion of our American railways in the Rocky Mountains. We had an excellent table d'hote luncheon to-day; but the hotel like the town had an at- mosphere of deep solemnity. The solemn hush seemed even to surround the children, for they deported themselves on the beach with a grave seriousness quite unusual in youngsters of tender years. I cannot recall that I heard the silence broken by a single peal of laughter. It may be that the day is responsible for this unnatural quiet, for it is Sunday; but if to-day is a typical Brighton day we shall certainly not care to prolong our stay. Dickens tells us it was here that little Paul Dombey was sent by his austere father to re- cover his health and thus to become in time an active partner in the house of " Dombey and Son." Here it was that the old-fashioned child, wandering with slow and painful steps along the beach with his devoted sister Florence, wondered what the wild waves were saying. To him the refrain was sad, and so appar- 194 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN ently Is everything else about Brlghton-by- the-sea. Aug. 20th. Our chief amusement this morning was a " bus " ride down the Strand, stopping to see St. Paul's churchyard, and several notable coffee-houses in the neighborhood, and the Queen's Arms Tavern often visited by Dr. Jonson. Aug. 3ijf/. While rambling about Windsor late this afternoon, we saw a man standing near the entrance to St. George's Chapel. I ap- proached and asked him if It was too late to enter the chapel. With a pleasing smile he assured us that he would be gratified to take us through both St. George's and the Albert chapels. St. George's Chapel of the order of the Knights of the Garter, our guide explained, was begun In 1474. Its unique roof is fan shaped. The richly adorned choir contains the stalls of the Knights of the Garter with their coat-of-arms and banners. The Albert Chapel is beautified with col- ored marbles, mosaics, precious stones and sculpture in extraordinary profusion. Its ceiling is composed of Venetian mosaics. 195 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN We regretted not having entered the chap- els sooner, and would have lingered longer; but our consideration for the verger (for such he proved to be) compelled us to shorten our stay. He was most generous in point- ing out the objects of greatest interest; but necessarily many other things were given a brief examination owing to our lack of time. Sept. 1st. This afternoon we joined a coaching party for a drive through Great Windsor Park, in which we strolled, in imagination, through Queen Elizabeth's walk. The magnificent mausoleum erected by Queen Victoria to her husband, Prince Albert, and where she now rests beside him, is a feature of the park, as IS also the commanding statue of George III. After driving about two hours we were told to alight and walk around a lake through a part of the park where vehicles were not per- mitted to enter. We met the coach at the end of the lake, after a walk of several miles through a beautiful forest, and were glad to mount it again and continue the drive back to Windsor. Sept. 2nd. Richmond was our objective point to-day. 196 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN It is a small town on the bank of the Thames, charmingly situated on the slope of a hill. Its original name was Sheen (beautiful). Its terrace gardens command a picturesque and famous view. The park is a favorite sum- mer resort for Londoners. Large herds of deer add to its charm. The Thames winds everywhere through the vast stretch of for- est, of which no man can see the " hend," as our cockney coachman told us while on our drive through the park. Pretty chalets peep from jutting points. The Star and Garter Hotel, where we luncheoned, commands a perfect view of the vast stretch of wood- land, the pride of romantic and beautiful Richmond. We rambled this afternoon about Hyde Park, which on an afternoon in the season is the best picture one can present to the stran- ger, of the pride and wealth, blood and bear- ing, comeliness and beauty of old England. It is one of the most frequented and lively scenes in London. A handsome and lofty railing surrounds it. There are nine car- riage-entrances, besides a great number of gates for pedestrians. All of them are closed at midnight. Within the park stands a monument to the " Iron Duke," 197 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN which, as the inscription tells us, was erected with money subscribed by English ladies in honor of " Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms." No carts or wagons are permitted to enter Hyde Park, and cabs are admitted only to one roadway across the park near Kensington Gardens. The finest part of the park, irre- spective of the magnificent group of trees and expanses of grass for which English parks stand pre-eminent, is that near the Serpen- tine, where in spring and summer the fash- ionable world rides, drives or walks. The favorite hours are from five to seven. The scene in this part of the park on fine afternoons is both interesting and imposing, though of late years, I am told, the fashion- able throng has not been so numerous as pre- viously. In the drive, a study of fashion and riding, one sees handsome equipages and high-bred horses in handsome trappings driven by sleek coachmen and powdered lackeys, and occu- pied by beautiful and exquisitely dressed women. In strong contrast to this scene, is that part of the park where, in order to enter, one must pay a fee of twopence for the privilege 198 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN of lounging on the grass or benches, or oc- cupying a chair. This corner is remote from that where passes the gilded world of fashion. Sept. ^th. Our afternoon was delightfully spent at the Savoy Theater where we saw a performance of " My Lady Molly," a charming operetta that has yet to be seen in the States. It was well sung, and the acting was characterized by a vim and " smartness " that proved an agreeable surprise. On our way out an amusing incident occurred. We were pass- ing from the body of the theater, through a vaulted corridor, to the street. A lady in front of us was struggling vainly to get into her jacket. She had one sleeve on; but the other was, with tantalizing obstinacy, beyond her reach. It was comical to observe her ef- forts to connect with the fluttering garment. My husband, with true American politeness, placed his hand on the collar of the wrap, and with a quick movement drew it up on her shoulders. As he did so, a man at his side, tipping his hat politely, quietly remarked, " C'est pour moi, Monsieur." The man was apparently the lady's husband. '' Vous avez ralson, Monsieur," replied my husband, also 199 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN tipping his hat. At that moment the lady in question turned, and reahzing from the con- versation to whom she was indebted for the courtesy, n;iurmured her thanks also, and the four of us, all smiling, continued our way to the street. There is one custom in the European the- aters that differs from ours. Here, the ushers are women, and they are both young and old. They perform the service quite as well as men, and they have charge also of the cloak-room where your wraps are checked, in return for which you give a small gratuity. A pleasant feature of the performance is the passing of tea on little salvers daintily equipped with just enough for one or two. One hears " tea," '' tea," " tea," called in low tones throughout the theater. It proves a welcome beverage as well as a " bit " of so- ciability during the intermission. We dined at the Hotel Savoy to-night. It is close by the Strand, and many theaters are " bunched " in that vicinity, so that while dining at any one of the hotels, one is sure to be rewarded with scenes full of spirit and the appearance of well-gowned women, and men in evening dress. I was surprised, I confess, when I saw 200 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN many women, evidently not to be out-done by their men friends, sending rings and curl- ing fantastic designs In smoke from their cigarettes during the dinner. I know In our country of women lovers of cigarettes; but this was the first time that I had seen women smoking In a supposedly fashionable assem- blage. It did take away the dainty feminin- ity that In my philosophy all women should cultivate and possess. Sept. 6th. Packing has consumed the greater part of two days. This task completed I went for a farewell "bus" ride down the Strand, and back by way of PIcadllly to say au revoir to a few of the places that had given me great pleasure. I hope I am not seeing them for the last time, for, to me, they are old and val- ued friends from whom It Is hard to part. Yet, after all, our greatest joy will be to see America again. Wasn't It Thomas Bailey Aldrlch who said, " The greatest joy of for- eign travel Is to get home again "? That Is so; nevertheless I shall be glad to return to this fascinating land so full of color and of quaint Interest. Sept. Sth. A beautifully appointed railway train 201 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN brought us to-day to Liverpool. It is rain- ing hard and we shall spend the day quietly about the hotel, which is filled with Americans also outward bound. $ept. loth. We boarded the Oceanic about four o'clock yesterday afternoon. We were " booked " to sail at five o'clock. The hour had arrived. The rain came down in tor- rents. The ship did not budge from her moorings. Friends of those aboard, who had come to wave their final adieux, tarried until darkness shut out their view, and finally the black night enveloped every visible object on the dock. Naturally everybody was eager to be off, and yet the ship did not move. Why, nobody knew. Finally, word went round the ship that the captain was waiting for the storm outside to abate before venturing out into the sea. Ten o'clock came and with it a rumbling noise, a quiver of the ship, and we were actually off. Sept. i2th. I have been content for two days to move from cot to couch and amuse (?) myself by listening to the swishing of the waves, and the doleful fog-horn, and realizing that I 202 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN shall be berth-bound for several days at least. Sept. i^th. Every time I tried to think that I was go- ing to get on deck, a huge wave would con- vince me that Neptune was not yet done with me; and yet another and another thundering voice would say, " Not yet ! not yet ! " When night came I shut out the wail of the waves, stopped my ears with cotton and laid down to watery dreams. Sept. 14th. The sun has been hiding for several days, but to-day burst through the clouds, bringing joy to everybody aboard. Its visit was soon cut short as clouds covered it, and our smiles, that meant much happiness but a little while before, gave way to frowns. However, we made the most of the day as land was only two days away. Sept. i^th. I was awakened at an early hour this morning by the same long, doleful, dreary sound of the fog-horn. Its very groan is a note of warning. I had no sooner awakened when suddenly two long signals sounded, and then in quick succession three rapid signals told of imminent danger. Suddenly the ship 203 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN shivered and backed just In time to avoid a collision, as I learned later. I hurriedly jumped from my berth, and looking out of our state-room door, saw a number of stew- ards, towels in hand, rushing towards the bow of the boat whence the warning came. In- stantly bells rang out from every state-room, and women and men rushed to the upper deck. We had touched an out-going ship in the dense fog. Ugh ! 'tis a gruesome sen- sation to have such experience. Happily the danger was averted, and the good old Oce- anic plowed on through the troublous waves, and the narrow escape was soon forgotten. The day passed as a gray monotonous day at sea can; pass, with a longing for a glimpse of a sea-gull, a ship, anything; but above all for a glimpse of land. ^ept. i6th. When I arose this morning I looked out upon a tranquil sea, with a clear sky over- head. I started to make a leisurely toilet when suddenly the wind rose, and with it the waves. In an incredibly short space of time the giant ship was plowing her way through great billows of water that broke fiercely over the main deck, sending the few early promenaders scurrying like frightened 204 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN partridges to cover. As the storm Increased In violence the scene was awe-InspIrlng be- yond any description I have ever read or seen. All about us the foaming, seething waves were tossed Into great mountains of water as If by some upheaval of nature. It was like looking from a lofty height upon a vast un- dulating waste of high hills and deep valleys stretching In every direction as far as the eye could reach. The outward-bound steam- ers, coast-wise and transatlantic, were thrown about like pleasure-boats upon the ruffled sur- face of a lake. It was Interesting to watch them as they rolled and pitched, apparently at the mercy of the waves, and yet to feel that they were well-manned and staunch, and certain to outride the gale. By this time we heard that we were in the grasp of a West India hurricane that had created havoc along the coast, especially, as we afterwards learned, at Atlantic City and other seaside resorts. With Sandy Hook in sight, and the pas- sengers in a fever of Impatience to step ashore, the Oceanic turned about and slowly steamed out to sea again, there to remain until the violence of the wind and waves had 205 FROM CAPITOL TO KREMLIN subsided. This occurred a few hours later, and about nightfall the Oceanic lay along- side the dock, which was crowded with friends of the returning travelers. To them her appearance was a welcome sight, for the report of the hurricane had spread about the city and grave apprehension existed regard- ing her safety. THE END ^^^ '^K ^ 'c^. ^^- '' « 1 \ ^.< ■^^>.<^'' ."/ .S^ "%-. ., _ _ _ V ^ ^^ ^/