I LIBRARY OF COiNGllESS.Ii # '^e^ ,.^. C4 t UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, f / "^ ^Jt- Ji^.-:. X}// y^^ H0¥ TO LIVE IN LONDOI: A PRACTICAL ^/ /y ^^ GUIDE ift THE BRITISH CAPITAL, JiHOVVJ.XG HOW AMIilRICANS AND OTHER VISITORS TO THE WORLD'S FAIR, MAY EMPLOY TIME AND MONEY TO THE BEST ADVANTAGE. TO WHICH IS ADDED, HOW TO LIVE IN PARIS, ON THE SAME PLAN. LATE EDITOR OF A LONDON JOURNAJ NEW YORK : PUBLISHED BY ADRIANCE, SHERMAN & CO,, No. 2 ASTOE, HOUSE, AND MAY BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLERS. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by J. C. GORDON, I . » %....^ ^ BRITISH MONEY. The cash circulation of London consists of bills, (or notes) of the Bank of England (only), of the value of five pounds, sterling, and up- wards ; of golden sovereigns and half-sovereigns ; of silver crowns, half- crowns, shillings, sixpences, fourpences, and threepences ; and of copper pence, half-pence, farthings, and half-farthings. Their relative value is as follows : — GOLD COIN. The sovereign, or pound, is . . . .20 shillings. The half-sovereign is i . . . 10 shillings- SILVER COIN. The crown is ...... 5 shillings- The half-crown is . . . .2 shillings and six-pence. The shilling is . . . . . . 12 pence. The sixpence, fourpence and threepence each bear the value indicated thereupon, but the two last are not much in circulation. COPPER COIN. The penny piece is worth .... 2 half-pence. The half-penny represents 2 farthings, or 4 half-farthings, and in value is about equal to the American cent. HOW TO LIVE m INTRODUCTIOJi "To live in London," sor " Give me the cash, V 11 1 And really-^with commoi All must allow that " thai But when the purse gets Through drafts by day, ai And " the Wolf's"* howl How will they *' carry on I write not for that lucky Whose pockets are well h Let him " see life," and ' And freely sport his read] For money put in circulat Gives life to trade in ever But calculating men of se Who love not heedless, wi Will frankly clasp the frie Tendered as guide throug * " Keep the Wolf from the door."— 0/rf HOV TO LIVE IN LONDON: A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO THE BRITISH CAPITAL, SHOWING HOW AMKRICANS AND OTHER VISITORS TO THE WORLD'S FAIR, MAY EMPLOY TIME AND MONEY TO THE BEST ADVANTAGE. TO WHICH IS ADDED, HOW TO LIVE IN PARIS, ON THE SAME PLAN. BY THE LATE EDITOR OF A LONDON JOURNAL, NKWYORK: PUBLISHED BY ADRIANCE, SHERMA^- k CO,, No. 2, AST OR HOUSE, AND MAY BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLERS, ^ AP OF THE ROUTE, PREFACE. ^ " HOW TO LIVE IN LONDON" first appeared (copyright being reserved) in the columns of the *'NEW YORK SUN." Having been carefully revised and considerably added to. it is now submitted to the public in its present form. CALCULATION. By judicious economy, on one of the systems indicated in the succeeding pages, the voyage to Europe, out and home, including a month's residence in London, a trip to Paris, and a week there, ma]/ be accomplished — and comfortably too — at about the following figures : — Cabin passage in a London liner, both ways, as agreed, Trip to Paris and return, . ... Extra expenses for sigbt-seeing in London and Paris, 1100 15 25 |140 From the above should be deducted the expense of board and lodging saved during the outward and home- wai4 voyages, — say at least two months, — which will more than cover the extra cost of living in England. THE LIBRARY or C ONGR ESS WAtBINOTON CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. For England Ho ! — Association — Ocean Steamers and " Liners" — Com- fort and Economy — Cod Fishing — Election of a President— Atlantic Newspaper — Music and Dancing— Tea and Tiirn-m — Port of Desti- nation—Portsmouth, its " Lions" and Hotels — Boat-fares — Custom House — Luggage — Duty on Tobacco — Books — To London by the Thames — Hotel Prices — Gosport — The Blue Posts — Start for Lon- don, ........ 9 CHAPTER II. HoAV to proceed on arriving in London — " Cabs" — Omnibuses — " Lug- gage Room" — Hotels — Coffee Houses — Boarding Houses — " Furnished Apartments" — "Furnished Lodgings" — "Furnished Room" — "Bed Room" — Coffee " Shops" — Temporary Accommodations, . 16 CHAPTER III. By Liverpool to London — Euston Square Station — Hotels, Coffee-Shops, and Private Lodgings in that quarter of London— Breakfast, Dinner, Tea and Supper arrangements — The great Thoroughfares of London — How to find your way to all parts of "Town," . . 25 CHAPTER IV. Hyde-Park, Oxford street, and Holborn— St. Giles — London Bridge — Moorgate street — Finsbury Square— City Road— Islington — Penton- ville — Eusion Square— Paddington—Edgeware Road — Regent street — The Quadrant — Waterloo Place — Bridge street — Westminster Bridge — Hungerford Market — Drury Lane and Covent Garden Thea- tres — Blackfriars Bridge — Farringdon street. . 36 Yl CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. Eeonomieal and Comfortable Meals — Breakfast and the "Morning Papers" — Dinner — Tea and the " tCvening Papers" — Smoking Divans — Tea Gardens — White Conduit House — The "Eagle" — The "Shades," . . . • . . 41 CHAPTER Yl. The " Sights" of London — The Crystal Palace— Kensington Gardens — Hyde Park Gardens — Knightsbridge Barracks — Belgravia — The American Minister — St. James's Park — Buckingham Palace — St. James's Palace — Horse Guards' Parade — Whitehall — United Service Museum — Westminster Hall and Abbey — New Houses of Parliament — National Gallery^Exeter Hall, .... 51 CHAPTER YII. Somerset House — King's College — New Church — Surgeons' Hall — The Soane Collection — British Museum — St. Paul's — Guildhall — East In- dia House and Museum — The Tower — The London Docks — London Institution — Regent's Park ami Zoological Gardens — Pantheon and Soho Bazaars — Surrey Side — Theatres and other Evening Amusements — Sunday — Baths, .... . . 62 CHAPTER VIII. The Environs of London — Windsor — Ascot — Richmond — Twickenham — Hampton Court — Greenwich — Woolwich — Dulwich — Norwood — Tooting — Hampstead — Highgate — Kensal Green — Epsom Races — Concluding Remarks, . . . . . • 77 POSTSCRIPT, 92 HOW TO LIVE m PARIS, 96 HOW TO LIVE IN LONDON. CHAPTER I. For England Ho ! — Association — Ocean Steamers and " Liners" — Com- fort and Economy — Cod Fishing — Election of a President — Atlantic Newspaper — Music and Dancing— Tea and Turn-in — Port of Desti- nation — Portsmouth, its " Lions" and Hotels — Boat-fares — Custom House — Luggage — Duty on Tobacco — Books — To London by the Thames — Hotel Prices — Gosport — The Blue Posts — Start for London This is the age of " Association," and although very many intelligent and reflecting Americans, from whatever port they may take their departure, are certain to engage their passage in such vessels as may suit their particular vievrs and means, yet a hint or two on the subject may prove useful to those who, from various motives, are not disposed to make the voyage in either the " Collins," the ^' Southampton," or the " Cunard " line of ocean steamers ; nor yet in any of the London or Liverpool regular " liners." Of the luxuries and accommodations enjoyed on board of the former, it is quite needless to say a word ; and of the latter it is scarcely necessary to observe that they are, in every respect, "first rate." To secure, then, the greatest possible extent of comfort and rational gratification, without unnecessary expenditure of the " universal dollar," we would direct attention to the advantages which may be derived from intending voya- geurs associating together in sufficient numbers to induce ship owners and captains to contract with them for the voyage out and home — with or without provisions, stores, &c.— on terms more advantageous to all parties than could passibly be afforded to isolated and chance passengers. 10 When a numerous party is associated, it will be easy to convert the whole " between decks" of a ship into one or two large cabins, running the entire distance "fore and aft," •with a range of double and single state-rooms on each side. Then, if the socieie conclude to ''find" themselves, a "catering" and "general-managing" committee can be formed, to provide sea-stock, stores, &c,, engage a cook and steward, and make all other needful arransfements. A plan something like the foregoing would enable a large part}?^ to make the voyage both ways very comfortably and economically : whilst, at the same time, the ship-owner would be fairly remunerated for the accommodation af- forded. The passengers would derive considerable advantage, as well as amusement, from providing themselves each with a strong fishing-line, and some good cod -hooks, (the "sockdolagers" are a capital invention), as few vessels cross the banks of Newfoundland without having — or making — an opportunity to take a good catch of codfish ; which, either fresh, or slightly salted, make a delicious and most agreeable variety at the " mess-table." The election of a " President," with sufficient, though of course limited, powers, to be exercised for the general good during the voyage, may be found desirable ; and we have known a newspaper, compiled from joint-stock communi- cations, contributed from all on board, deposited in an "Editor's Box," and fairly transcribed upon a sheet of " foolscap," afford much instruction, as well as amusement to all concerned. In a numerous " congregation" there will be found some fair musicians, and when " seasoned" to the sea, an occa- sional concert and dance will prove extremely conducive to health, and an agreeable mode of passing the time between " tea and turning-m." As regards the port of landing in England, provided that the passage-money be not much less to Liverpool than to London, and strict economy a paramount consideration, it 11 will, in every respect, be more advantageous to embark in a ship bound for the last, rather than for the first- named place ; and here are the reasons for our assertion : — Liverpool, although a most prosperous and thriving com- mercial city, has little besides its docks and warehouses to interest the visitor who has no business to transact there ; and besides, it is two hundred miles from London ; and to be " whirled," at an unnecessary expense, over that distance, with rail-road speed, and consequently without a chance of obtaining more than a flying glimpse of the country, or any object worth seeing m route, offers no temptation to the traveller for information, for pleasure, or for both. W hereas, by disembarking at Portsmouth, where the New York and London lines of packets always touch, the visitor will have an opportunity of seeing that important and extensive for- tress, as also Her Majesty's magnificent dock-yard at Port- sea — including the great naval arsenal, the stupendous anchor, &c., forges, the celebrated block-making machinery — the invention of Monsieur Brunei, the world-renowned projector and architect of the Thames Tunnel — likewise the Royal Steam-yacht, and her beautiful little "Fairy' tender;—*' The Victory,'' Nelson's Flag-ship, on the quarter- deck of which he was killed at Trafalgar. And, besides all this, Portsmouth is only about seventy miles — a short and cheap rail-road ride — from London. Ships calling at Portsmouth generally anchor at Spit- head, from whence passengers and their luggage are con- veyed in boats to the shore. If, however, the traveller is encumbered with more than one or two trunks, or if they are heavy, the best plan will be to take with him only a small carpet bag, or similar package, containing such articles as are in daily requisition, leaving all the rest of his " plun- der" on board ship, in charge of the steward or some other responsible person, until her arrival in London, where he can obtain, and have it conveyed, after Custom- House ex- amination, direct to the lodgings where he purposes residing during his stay in the London World. 12 Before entering the boat at Spithead, bargain with the boatman for the sum you are to pay him for landing your- self and whatever luggage you may take with you, at the "Sallyport," the "Point," or at "Gosport:" the last we consider to be the most advisable destination, for reasons which shall presently be given. If there be only one or two passengers, he will, perhaps, demand half a- crown (60 cents,) or more, for each, to any of the places named (all being nearly equi-distant from the ordinary anchorage), but probably wi^l agree to take eighteen pence (36 cents). A large party — say a dozen persons — will be charged (per agreement) about a sixpence (12 cents) each. When a ship arrives before or after custom-house hours, the customs' officers are authorized to permit passengers to take ashore with them a small carpet-bng, or its equivalent, containing necessaries, without passin^g through the cus- tom-house ; hut they generally examine the contents, and it is not advisable that those should include more than a moderate allowance of tobacco, in any shape — say from half to three quarters of a pound, at the most. An at- tempt to- bribe the officer to neglect his duty would, in most cases, fail, and is punishable by heavy fine and imprison- ment. Passengers' luggage is sometimes pretty closely — more frequently very slightly — inypected at the Custom- House, but it will not be prudent to attempt concealment of any article subject to duty. By a minute of the Com- missioner of Customs, dated May 11, 1844, "cambric or lawns, leather gloves, silk and tobacco, found in passengers' baggage, are admitted to entry, although not entered on the report." The following duties are payable on tobacco : Unmanufactured, per lb., 3s. (72 cents.) Manufactured, or segars, 9s. ($2 16.) Snuff, 6s. ($1 44.) The manufactured article can be bought at any tobac- conist's at about half the amount charged as duty. Act VIII. and IX. Victoria, C. 93, enacts that " copy- right editions of books published in England, and subse- 13 quently re-printed abroad, may not be imported into any British possession, provided notice has been given to the customs that such copy-right exists." Such books, therefore, brought to be read on the voyage, must either be left on board ship, or deposited in the custom-house, (where they v^ill be kept for the owners three years) and possession resumed on the passengers leaving England. Passengers who have no desire to see Portsmouth and its ** hons," and are not tired of the sea and i,ship, will, of course, continue their voyage for the whole distance to London, which will save half a score dollars in expenditure, and give them a pleasant sail through the Straits of Dover into the " Downs," and afterwards over sixty miles up the Thames, passing Gravesend and Tilbury Port, (where the " Port of London" commences,) Yv^oolwich, Greenwich, and Deptford, to the " London" or " St. Catharine's" dock ; and, as American vessels generally take " steam-tugs" in the " Downs," that part of the voyage is easily and agree- ably accomplished. We would advise our friends to land at Portsmouth when going to London, and to embark at the Docks on their return, as they will thus see all that is worth looking at on both routes. But we must go back to our Portsmouth party. There are two first class Hotels at Portsmouth — the " George" and the " Crown," — both situated in High-street, and tolerably fair specimens of their " order," as it exists in naval and military stations in England; the charges being somewhat higher than those of similar establishments in the generahty of other provincial towns. In the " coffee room," breakfast, without meat or eggs, Is. 6d. (36 cents) ; with meat, 2s., (48 cents). Dinner 3s., ('72 cents); Port or Sherry Wine 5s. (|1 20) per bottle; and in the same proportion per pint and half-pint — the last a not unusual order for one person. Whatever wine you may order, always tell the waiter to bring it in the " black 2 14 bottle," as it is perfectly understood that when the process of " decanting" is gone through in the *' bar," a couple of glasses of wine are left at the bottom of the bottle, lest the liquor should become clouded with the deposit ; not to men- tion the " glass of negus" which all " knowing" hotel- keepers and their w^aiters (and where are they otherwise than " knowing") calculate upon manufacturing out of every bottle of wine decanted for their customers. Beware of ordering your wine to be changed on account of its possessing "too much body," or being "fruity;" for the first fault will probably be remedied by an abstraction of wine, and a substitution of water, whilst the latter will be qualified by an admixture of cider. If your potations must be thus doctored, it will be quite as well for you to perform the aquafying and acidulating operations for yourself. The charge for a bed-room will be from 2s. (48 cents) to 3s. (72 cents) per night. Servant fees — waiter Is. (24 cents), chamber-maid 6d. (12 cents), and "boots'" 6d. per day. English hotels do not keep a public register of the inmates. Ladies do not use the " coffee-room," and private rooms, as well as the meals served in them, are charged extra. There are some very comfortable second- class houses at Portsmouth, where the accommodations and meals are quite as good — perhaps better — than at the places we have named ; amongst these are " The Blue Posts," known in former times as the " The Blue Vo&iesses^ where the midshipmen leave their chestf'^se.^," and, — horesco referens, — " sometimes forget to pay for their break- fastesse.9." In those days " The Blue Posts" was but a noisy hostelrie, but in these peaceable times, it is a suffi- ciently quiet domicile. As, however, we purpose travelling to London by rail, we piefer landing at Gosport, on the west of the entrance to Portsmouth harbor. Here is the terminus of the rail- road from London, and several good hotels ; one in par- ticular, *' The Indian Arms," is a capital " commercial traveller's" house, the charges fully one-third less than 15 those of the " George," and the " Crown." A " floating bridge" plies regularly between Gosport and Portsmouth, the fare 3d. (6 cents) each passenger. The watermen take passengers at 2d. (4 cents) each. When you are ready to start for London, proceed to the railroad station, and if you have brought more luggage than a carpet-bag or small portmanteau with you, (which latter may be deposited in the carriage where you take your seat,) give it in chavge to one of the company's por- ters, who will ticket, and place it on one of the carriages going the whole distance to London. There are three de- scriptions of "trains" and "cars;" the first-class — luxu- riously cushioned vehicles — fare, 15s. ,($3 60c ;) the second- class, uncushioned, but tolerably comfortable conveyances for the distance to London, fare, 10s. ($2 40c. ;) the third- class, or "Parliamentary," nearly as good as the second- class, but longer on the road, fare, tis., ($1 44c.) First and second-class passengers are allowed to take 112 pounds of luggage with them, free of charge ; anything over that weight will cost 2d. (4 cents) per pound in addition to the fare. Third-class passengers are only allowed 56 lbs. free. First-class, and " mixed" trains reach London in between two and three hours, varying according to the time of departure from Portsmouth, which is specified in printed bills, to be obtained at the Gosport terminus. All the trains pass along the line too rapidly to admit of more than a momentary glance at the country traversed. The *' cars" on this line take their passengers into nearly the centre of London, (the Waterloo Bridge Terminus,) on the Surrey side, where we shall rest for a few minutes before commencing our search after eligible lodgings. 16 CHAPTER II. How to proceed on arriving in London — " Cabs" — Omnibuses^—" Lug- gage Room" — Hotels — Coffee Houses — Boarding Houses — "Furnished Apartments" — " Furnished Lodgings" — " Furnished Room" — " Bed Room" Coffee "Shops" — Temporary Accommodations. The London station of tlie Soutli-Western Railway, by wKich the traveller from Portsmouth or Southampton reaches the British Metropolis, is located near Waterloo Bridge, in the Borough of Lambeth, on the " Surrey" (the south) side of the river Thames. The " City" of London, and " Westminster," are in the county of Middlesex, on the opposite (the north) bank of the river; but the ** City," Westminster, Lambeth and South wark — excepting in-so-far as the Thames separates the first two from the last — all form " part and parcel" of that vast conglomera- tion of " bricks and mortar," the " Capital," or as Cobbett called it, the "Wen" of England. The "City" only, however, within its ancient boundaries, is under the juris- diction of the Lord Mayor and Corporation. As soon as the train stops at the station, jump out of the carriage in which you have travelled, and if you have brought with you any luggage besides the carpet-bag or small portmanteau spoken of in the preceding chapter — and which you have doubtless retained in your own pos- session — look after it at once, (for in England no " bag- gage master" accompanies the cars, and the excellent American plan of attaching numbered duplicate checks to each article of passenger's luggage, the owner holding the corresponding numbers, has not yet been adopted,) and if you have decided upon taking up your quarters in any particular hotel, or other lodgings, get one of the porters 17 of the establishment to carry it to the first disengaged " cab" (cabriolet) on the line of those which are allowed to pass within the *' station ;" make your agreement with the driver for the conveyance of yourself and chattels to your destination, enter the *' leathern conveniency," and " off you go !" " Cabs" are small covered vehicles, drawn by one horse, and calculated to hold two passengers only. The legal fare, exclusive of such luggage as is too bulky to be car- ried inside, is 8d. (16 cents) per mile, but it is always ad- visable, when engaging either cab or hackney coach, to have a clear understanding of how much you are to pay for your jaunt. For a cab, distance not exceeding two miles, with a moderate quantity of luggage, (a carpet-bag or small portmanteau, should not be charged for) eighteen pence (36 cents) will be about right. The fare by a *' hackney coach," or " chariot," drawn by two horses, will be one third more. If you have to seek a lodging — " the world (of Lon- don) before you, where to choose," and our instructions for your guide, tell the porter to take your effects to the " luggage room," accompany him thither, and leave them in charge of the clerk of that department, taking his re- ceipt for the same. The porters at all the railway stations are the paid ser- vants of the respective companies, and are prohibited from receiving any fee or reward from passengers for assistance rendered. In addition to the "cabs," omnibuses to all parts of London ply at the different railway stations ; but unless the traveller is well acquainted with town, and knows that he can be put down at the door of the house he wants to go to, and the distance is considerable, there will be little or no advantage in using that description of conveyance ; as the omnibus charge from railway stations to any quarter of London is sixpence (12 cents) for each person, and as 2* 18 much more, or a still larger amount, for luggage, when there is any considerable quantity of it. We have already said, in the "Introduction" to this, our guide to the visitor to London, that — " We write not for the lucky elf Whose pockets are well lined with pelf." But, nevertheless, as some of that class may, peradventure, feel disposed to profit by the information which our tho- rough knowledge of "Life in London," in all its phases, enables us to communicate, we shall just briefly observe, that if funds be supei-abundant, expense a matter of " no consideration," and a residence at a " West end" fashiona- ble hotel, of the first water, a primary object, they can be exactly suited, and "shaved" as closely as the most "ex- elusive" heart could wish, at " Mivart's," in Brooke street, Grosvenor Square ; " Limmer's," George street, Hanover Square ; " The Clarendon," jSTew Bond street ; " Fenton's," St. James' street; "Blake's," "Reddish's," and the " Water- loo," all in Jermyn street, St. James's. At those, which are understood to be " abundantly extravagant" hotels, the cost of living will be from thirty shillings {$7 20) to two pounds ($9 60) per day, for merely bachelor's meals and accommodations — and not the best at that — (apartments, breakfast, dinner, tea, supper, and even firing and candles, all being charged as separate items ;) and if two or three of the best rooms be occupied, double the last amount will barely cover the daily expenses of a married couple, with a glass of wine at dinner, and fees to servants. A grade of hotels secondary in fashionable estimation to the foregoing list, though in no way inferior as regards ac- commodation and real comforts, are " Wright's," Dover street, Piccadilly ; " Warren's," Regent street ; " Mor- ley's," Trafalgar Square, Charing Cross; "The Golden Cross," Strand ; " The Craven," Craven street, Strand ; ^'The York," (a good, quiet house, with an excellent cellar of wines, &c.,) Charles street, Covent Garden ; " The Bed- 19 ford," " The Piazza," " The Tavistock," '' Old Hummums," and " New Hummums," all in Covent Garden ; " The Som- erset," near Somerset House, Strand. These are all " West of Temple Bar." In the " City" proper are " Anderton's" and the *' Por- tugal," in Fleet street; "The York," Bridge street, Black- friars ; " The Belle Sauvage" and the " London Coffee House," on Ludgate Hill ; " The Blue Boar," "The George," -and "The Bell and Crown," Holborn ; "The Saracen's Head," Skinner street, Snow Hill ; " The Bull and Mouth," (supposed to be a corruption of " Boulogne Mouth,") St. Martin-le- Grand. At all of the preceding the charges are nearly alike, varying from one shilling and sixpence to two >shinings (36 to 48 cents), for breakfast; two shillings to two shillings and sixpence (48 to 60 cents) for dinner; tea the same price as breakfast, without meat. Port and Sherry wines five shillings ($1 20) per bottle, and in proportion for a smaller quantity; ale, or porter, four pence (8 cents) per pint ; brandy and water, " cold witlioiU^' or " hot with,'^ (sugar being understood,) one shilUng (24 cents) per large, and sixpence or eightpenee (12 or 16 cents) per small glass ; glass of gin and water, sixpence (12 cents). The best plan, however, is to ask for " a go" of whatever liquor you re- quire, with cold or hot water and sugar, as you may wish. You will get more for your money. A bed-room will cost two shillings to three shillings (48 to 72 cents) per night, according to size and floor; waiter one shilling (24 cents), chambermaid sixpence (12 cents), and "boots" sixpence (12 cents), each, per day. Those are the prices of the ^^ Coffee BLoom," in which the single inmates of English hofeels generally take their meals ; but in private sitting- rooms — and such cannot be dispensed with when ladies are to be accommodated — an additional charge of about five shillings ($1 20) per day is made. Every one orders their meals at whatever time best suits their convenience ; but as at stated hours of the afternoon •*^hot joints" of meat are ready for the table, ascertain each 20 morning the cooking- arrangemenfcs for the day, and he governed thereby ; otherwise a little soup, followed by a *' bit of fisb/' a steak, a chop, or a cutlet — with a cutlet, a chop, or a steak, by way of variety, (unless you prefer cold, or half cold, remnants of roast or boiled joints,) will be found, in most cases, to form the staple of a London Hotel Coffee Room dinner. Travellers who like living in such places, and whose means and inclinations are not opposed t-o the outlay above specified, can at once proceed from the "* station'^ in a *'cab," baggage and all, to any of the hotels named. Some, perhaps, may prefer fixing themselves in a " coffee house," where they can hare a bed room and breakfast, ■without dinner. Those will find goc«d aecomm^odations a,l *' Gray's Inn Coffee House," Holborn ; " Peel's Coffee House,'" Fleet street; or "The Chapter Coffee House,'^ St. Paul's Churchyard. This last is much frequented bj literary men and booksellers, and the chai*ges are mode- rate, being one shilling and tlireepeace, (SO cents) for breakfast, without meat or eggs-, and one shilling and three- pence, or one shilling and sixpence (30 to 36 cents) peF night, for a snsall but good bed i"Oom.. Servants-' fees about the same as before quoted, but mucb less when the house is used for a week or longer. Boarding houses are not numei'ous in Lo-ndon, and ih© best, as v/ell as the most desirable rooms in al), are invari- ably pre-occupied by permanent boarders. Moreover, the American, whose object is to see all he can, will take his meals in whatever quarter of the "Town" he may find himself when appetite gives him a hint, and therefore will feel no disposition to pay "full board" rates, for an oc'ca- sional breakfast or dinner. Let us now suppose that many of our readers have *' stretched a point" in order to visit the " World's Fair,'* and consequently are desiroias of sparing their purses as much as possible, consistently with their determination of seeing everything worth seeing, and yet live nearly as 21 well as tliey have been used to do " to home." Well, then, having deposited your baggage as already directed, in the first, place take a look at the " Register" of " Lodg- ings to let," which, with the sanction of the Inspectors of Police, are kept at each railway station in London. There- in will be found the names, addresses, &c., of most of the respectable lodging house keepers in the vicinity, with particulars of the accommodation to be disposed of, and the rent per week. Make such extracts as appear likely to be useful, noting the terms, to be referred to when necessary. Rents on the ''Surrey side" of the river are considera- bly lower than on the opposite bank ; and in the immediate neighborhood of the " Waterloo Bridge Station" are the Waterloo Bridge Road; upper and lower Stamford street communicating in a direct line between Westmin- ster Bridge Road, on the west, and Blackfriar's Road on the east, (intersecting the Waterloo Bridge Road at right angles;) the Commercial Road, (Lambeth,) and Belvedere Road, running parallel with Stamford street ; also a num- ber of quiet clean streets, connecting those leading tho- roughfares, as well as branching off from the Waterloo Bridge Road, In this quarter, covering an extent of about two square miles, there will be but little difficulty in pro- curing lodgings — one or two rooms, neatly furnished — and at a reasonable rent ; say, for a small parlor and bed room, in a small house, eight or ten shillings, ($1 92, to $2 40) per week. For a bed room only, four to six shil- lings, (96 cents to $1 44) per week, " attendance," in all cases included. By ''attendance" is meant (and have all clearly understood before concluding a bargain) bed- making and keeping your room or rooms clean and in order ; supplying hot water when required ; preparing and serving up breakfast, removing and washing up the tea equipage, (dining or supping at your lodgings is not recommended.) Boot and shoe cleaning will be charged me shilling, (24 cents) per week extra, and though we all 22 know how that expense may be saved, yet economy in this particular would be injudicious ; as, in general, the small sum in question is a perquisite of your attendant. Stipulate for a change of bed-linen once a fortnight, and for clean table linen and towels at least once a week ; and no charge to be made for washing those articles. Take the lodgings by the week — a week's notice to be given on either side previous to a " turn-out " Stipulate, likewise, for a "latch-key;" it will always be a convenience, and save much time and trouble, besides occasionally prevent- ing the necessity of abiding "the pelting of the pitiless storm" by day or night, for a moment longer than is required to open the door. It may be as well to agree, as suggested, for breakfast *' attendance" at your lodgings, but we rather counsel your taking that, as well as your other meals, abroad. The London "Punch" once published amongst his facetious illustrations, a sketch of the " Oo-ress Lodsfing; house keepers of Margate and Ramsgate, ^vho live on their lodgers ;" and we know, from sad personal experience of their biting capabilities, that the race is by no means con- fined to the Watering places referred to — being, in truth, " plenty as blackberiies," and active as lively leeches, in London. And albeit their devoted victim may be furnished with a neat " lock-up" tea caddy, and a good-looking key for a " ditto" pantry, yet inasmuch as there exists a possibility of manufacturing duplicate " open sesames" of this de- scription, he will, in all probability, soon discover that tea, sugar, bread, butter, and such other eatables, (to say- nothing of drinkables,) as he may have provided for his own especial use, disappear long before the ordinary cal- culation of one person's consumption can satisfactorily account for ; thus renderino- the home breakfast — however otherwise agreeable — by no means a cheap meal. The difficulties of lodmno--huntino; in London are much lessened by the practice existing there of exhibiting bills in the Lodging-house windows, announcing " Furnished Apart- 23 merits ;" " Furnished Lodgings ;" " Furnished Room ;" or " A Bedroom, Furnished." No. 1 usually intimates that a suite, or, at all events, more than two rooms, may be obtained. No. 2 is generally understood as offering a sit- tino' and bed-room. No. 3 is suo-o-estive of a sittins: room by day, convertible at night, b}^ means of a sofa, a turn-up bedstead, or some similar contrivance, into a dormitory ; whilst No. 4 may be intej'preted as affording a mere bed- closet, wanting a fire place, but with, or without, the privi- lege of breakfasting in the landlord's parlor. The first and second may be found in nearly all but the " fashionable" streets, the rent depending upon situation, advantages, (fee; the third and fourth abound in the retired streets of the *' business'' districts on both sides of the water, the prices also ranging according to location and other considerations, A drawing-room and bed-room adjoining, (which in Eng- land is called the "first floor," answering to the " second floor" in America) generally let, anywhere near Hyde Park, where the "Palace of Glass"' is erected, at from one pound, to two pounds (|4 80 to $9 60) per week, attend- ance included, but will certainly bring higher rates during the period of the approaching "Fair." The parlors (be- neath) and the second floor (above the first) may be had at from five to ten shillings per week less monej^ At a distance, however, from the great focus of interest, prices of lodo^incjs will not be more than half the cost of those near the "Park," and with as good, if not better, accom- modations. In the suburbs of Camden-town, Somerstown, Pentonville, Islington, &g,, as well as on the " Surrey side," the cheapest lodgings may be found. The residents of Lambeth, when taking the shortest route into the "Strand," will have to pay a half-penn}^ (one cent,) each time tliey pass over Waterloo, or the Hungerford suspen- sion bridge, but in going east they can take Blackfriar's, p'oino- west cross Westminster Bridq-e, which will save their pennies. Should the traveller arrive too late in London to seek 24 for lodgings on the same day, let him still leave his luggage at the " Station," and go at once to a respectable coflfee- shop — there are several in the Waterloo Road, and Stam- ford street. Engage a bed room for the night, (seeing it first, of course) — order a " pint" of tea or coffee, with " a small loaf and butter," in the '^ upstairs" refreshment room, call for any of the Morning or Evening Newspapers of the day to amuse him, and make himself comfortable until the next morning. His " entertainment" will amount to four- pence (8 cents) for tea or coffee ; twopence (4 cents) for bread and butter ; one shilling, or one shilling and sixpence (24 to 36 cents) for bedroom; and twopence (4 cents) to the waiter, generally a female, who acts also as chamber- maid. In all, one shilling and eightpence, (40 cents,) or, at most, two shillings and two pence (62 cents,,) for bed and meal. If a night's lodging at a hotel or tavern is preferred^ good accommodation may be had at the " Hero of Waterloo," Waterloo Road ; " The Leaping Bar," Blaskfriars Road : — (opposite to Lower Stamford street ;) " Proctor's Hotel," Westminster Bridge Road ; (nearly opposite to " Astley's Amphitheatre;) or " The Feathers," a very good house close to AVaterloo Bridge. The charges at those places will, for tea or supper, be one shilling and sixpence (36 cents,) and the same, or perhaps two shillings (48 cents) for a bedroom. One shilling to the waiter, to be divided between himself, the chambermaid, and " boots." Should any doubt occur as to the respectability of the street or house where you are in search of lodgings, make inquiry on the subject of the first policeman you meet on duty. They are to be seen in all quarters, by day as well as by night, and will promptly and civilly answer all your questions. 25 CHAPTER III. By Liverpool to London — Euston Square Station — Hotels, Coffee-Shops and Private Lodgings in that quarter of London — Breakfast, Dinner, Tea, and Supper arrangements — The great Thoroughfares of London —How to find your way to all parts of " Town." We have hitherto supposed the American traveller to have landed at Portsmouth, and reached London by the South- Western Railway ; but as many, for reasons '* good, bad, or indifferent," will prefer the Liverpool route, we shall now accompany them to the Capital from that port. Although, as we have already said, Liverpool offers no- thing of sufficient interest to induce those who only travel for pleasure to "go out of their way" for the purpose of seeing it, yet when there, you may as well take a look at whatever is worth a glance. But first let us land, and go through the Custom- House formalities. When the weather is fine and bright, the passage up the Mersey is very pleasant ; on the right — the Cheshire side — is the mouth of the river Dee, recalling to mind the philosophic and " Jolly Miller," who, according to the old legend, once " lived on its banks," and " the burden" of whose song most rationally says, — " I care for nobody, no, not I, ijf nobody cares for me." On the left is an expansive estuary of shoal water, wherein numerous sand banks become visible at ebb-tide ; and as, during heavy gales of wind, these frequently change their position, experienced pilots cannot safely be dispensed with in navigating large vessels through either of the two " channels" in the '* Fairway." Proceeding onward, and 3 26 again on the right, are "New Brighton;" — the "watering place" of Liverpool — a succession of neat looking villages, and Birkenhead, Avhere large "tioating docks" are in course of construction. If the tide be sufficiently high when the vessel arrives at Liverpool, she will immediately haul into her dock ; the passengers can then walk ashore, and proceed with their luggage to the Custom-House. Be guided, when there, by the advice given under the head of " Portsmouth," in our first chapter ; to which, however, we shall add, that, if asked " Whether your packages contain anything subject to duty ?" your safest and most judicious answer, will be to the effect that, "you don't know — but that there is no- thing except what is for your own use, which, if required, you will either pay duty upon, or leave in store." " Pas- sengers' luggage," unless in the case of some person who has an unusually large quantity, avowedly coming under the "tariff," is rarely taken to the "Regular" Custom House, which, at Liverpool, is a considerable distance from the docks where American vessels generally land their cargoes. Those who wisely are not encumbered with more than two or three trunks and portmanteaus, can pro- bably get them examined in the " Dock House," at the prin- cipal gate, where, ordinarily, they are very slightly inspected — sometimes, indeed, not even looked into, but passed and "chalked" unopened. It would not be safe, however, to " speculate" on such a chance, much less to boast of success subsequently ; for the possession of tobacco, or other ar- ticles, which may have escaped Custom House notice, sometimes entails unpleasant consequences. In the im- probable event of exaction, or undue exercise of authority, on the part of the " Officer," a complaint addressed, " To the Honorable the Commissioners of Customs, London," will receive prompt attention, and procure redress. — There are no fees to be paid at any Custom House in England. If it is not intended to remain more than a day or two at Liverpool, a " look-a-header" will transfer his effects 27 forthwith to the raUroad station, there to await his de- parture for London. For one shilling (24 cents) a '' hack- ney carriage" will convey two persons and a fair load of baggage to the station. Agree with the driver, however, beforehand ; deposit all not required for immediate use in the " luggage-roora" there, taking the usual receipt; the charge will be twopence (4 cents), but your goods will be in safe keeping, and the expense of a second removal — when leavinor vour loderino-s to start for London — will be saved. There is no lack of hotels close by the station, and the accommodation and prices of all are on a par ; bed-room and use of coffee-room, two shilHngs (48 cents) per day; breakfast, the same ; dinner, '' half-a-crown" (60 cents); tea or coffee in the evening, one shilling and sixpence (36 cents). Your meals will be served at any time you please ; but if you desire more than a steak, chop, or cutlet, after your soup and fish, inquire at what hour the usual joints will be ready, and you will fare all the better for being '' thar" at the right moment. The waiter's fee is one shil- ling (24 cents); chambermaid, sixpence (12 cents) ;" boots," sixpence (12 cents) per day. The last-named ''official" is always "porter," in addition to his ''polishing" vocation. When you enter the hotel, walk intx) the " coffee-room," ring the bell, engage a bed-room, and order anything you may require. The " Elephants" of Liverpool best worth seeing are the *' Docks," extending for several miles parallel with the river. The warehouses in the vicinity of those are of prodigious height and extent, containing vast quantities of American cotton, and other produce, besides merchandise from every quarter of the globe. At the " Clarence" dock the steamers from Ireland discharge their enormous cargoes of both " live and dead" stock — the former passing in one continuous stream, from morning till night, and from year's end to year's end, along the road leading from the dock- gates into the town, giving the spectator ocular demonstration of the amazing fecundity of the " Green Isle" that produced them. 28 Here also will be seen a never- failing- throng of Irish emi- grants, some of them on their way to the manufacturing and rural districts of England to seek for employment — so miserably remunerated on the soil of their birth (the most crying social grievance of which five words will describe, viz. : "low wages, or no wages,") — but by far the largest number for the purpose of tak'mg passage from Liverpool to the land of their brightest hopes — America. Retmniing from the Clarence Dock hj " Goree Piazzas" and "Water Street," you will see the "Town Hall," a handsome building, in the rear of which is an open square^ used by the merchants, in fine weather, as an " Exchange," and the " Exchange Reading Room," where, upon stating at the " bar" that you are a stranger, your name will be registered, and you may enjoy the privilege of reading newspapers from all parts of the world, of which Ameri- can journals constitute a large proportion. In the centre of Exchange Square stands a handsome monumental trophy, erected in honor of Admiral Lord Nelson, who was killed in the hour victory at the battle of Trafalgar. The " School for the BHnd," and the " Botanic Gardens," will each repay the trouble of visiting them ; and, if time permits, a walk to "Everton," will show the town, the forest of masts in the docks, the river, and the Cheshire shore in the distance, to more advantage than they can be seen from any other point of view. The railway fares from Liverpool to London are as fol- lows : — First class, £l 16s. ($8 64) — second class, £l 6s. (|8 24)— third class, £l (|4 80)— " Parliamentary" train, leaving at five every morning, 16s. ($3 84). First and second class passengei^ are each allov*'ed to take 112 lbs. weight of luggage, free of charge ; the third class, &8 lbs., and the " Parliamentary " 28 lbs. Lucrcrao-e is always weighed, and when heavier than the "regulation," charged twopence (four cents) per pound extra. When the traveller has much " overweight" with him, he will find it to his ad- vantage to hand over his heaviest packages to one or other 29 of the public carriers — Messrs. Pickford, or Chaplin &; Co. — who have warehouse-room within the "station," seeing them weighed, and taking a receipt. When he has " fixed" himself in his London quarters, by writing for them — the postage, when pre-paid, is only one penny (two cents) to all parts of England, Ireland, and Scotland — they will be forwarded, and delivered at his residence for 3s. (72 cents) per 112 lbs., which will cover all expenses. As the journey to the capital, by the ordinary trains, occupies eight hours, (the express cars accomplish it in half the time, being at the rate of nearly a mile per minute, stoppages included !) it will be desirable to start from Liver- pool by one of the early morning trains, which will arrive in *' Town" ere it is too late in the day to look out leisurely for such lodgings as may best suit the traveller, and move into them the same evening. Before entering any of the carriages, see that the effects which you left in the *' luggage room," are all " ticketed" with the initial letters of your OYrn name, and " London ;" observe, and bear in mind what carnage they are placed in, or upon, and take your seat as near thereto as you possibly can : — by sitting with your back to the locomotive, you will not be exposed either to the strong current of air which meets the train when in motion, nor to the blinding dust and sparks flying from the furnace chimney. Such seats are always the first occupied, therefore secure "one as soon as possible. There will be no charge for care of your luggage beyond that already paid for the receipt, when the articles were de- posited, and nothing to pay the porter who labels and puts them on the cars. When the train reaches Birmingham, twenty minutes are allowed to take refreshment. — Waiters will be in readiness to conduct the passengers to abundantly-supplied tables, and promptly attend to their wants. The charges are — for dinner, " half-a-crown," (60 cents); tea or supper two shillings, (48 cents) — nothing to waiters. As the " cars" will have changed their position from one side of the station 3# so to the other, whilst you were engaged at your meal, when leaving the dining-room get one of the porters to show you where they have moved to. On arriving at the Euston Square station, in London, proceed as advised in the commencement of the preceding chapter. Porters from the " Victoria" and the " Euston" Hotels, are generally in waiting there to offer accommoda- tion in those houses, which are both close at hand ; and if the evening be far advanced, or you are indisposed for an immediate "lodging-huat," it may be as well to avail your- self of their services. The " Euston" is managed much in the same way as other hotels of a similar grade, but a charge is made for the use of the coffee-room, when meals are not taken in the house. A bed-room for the night will here cost three shillings (V2 cents) ; breakfast, two shil- lings (48 cents) ; dinner, three shillings (12 cents); tea, two shillings (48 cents) — bat all servants' fees are included in those charges. At the " Victoria," the prices for bed- room, breakfast and tea are the same as at the " Euston," but dinners are not served ; and here also servants' fees are dispensed with. Unless breakfast or tea are habitually taken in the house, a charge of eighteen pence (36 cents) per day, is made for the use of the cofiee-room. Should the accommodations described not suit you, ao-ain we say, adopt the course recommended under the "' Waterloo Station" head, in the previous chapter, viz : cause your things to be carried' to the " Luggage Room," (never forget to take a receipt for the deposit,) look into the "Lodmnof- house reg^ister," makino- the needful extracts therefrom, and walk out into Drummond street, where the terminus of this line of railway is located. There you will find several aoEQe-shops, with bed-rooms to let, by the night or week ; as also in Seymour street, to the east of Drummond, and running at right angles with it. The south end of Seymour street leads into the '* New Koad," and close by is " Somerstown," where, in Chari- ton-st., " The Polygon," and, indeed, throughout the whole 31 of that extensive district, both north and south of the *' New Road," as well as on "The Road" itself, taverns, coffee-57io/J5, and private lodgings, are all abundant, and offer fair accommodations on reasonable terms ; say a sitting-room and bed-room, from eight shillings to a pound ($2 to |5) per week; a single bed-room, fou,r shillings to eight shillings, ($1 to $2) ; a very superior bed-room will cost ten shillings, ($2 50) per week; attendance in all cases included. If fii'ing be required, it will be charged three shillings (72 cents) per week; or the lodger can pur- chase his own coal by the bushel, or half- bushel — ^usual price one shilling and six-pence, (33 cents) per bushel — •which, with four cents worth of kindling-wood, ought to last for ten or twelve days, and probably may do so, if there be a sr^all closet in his room to keep them in. Fire- liofhtinof is included in "attendance." When you have engaged lodgings by the week, take a " cab" to remove your luggage thither. Those permitted to enter the railway station, some of which are always in waiting there, are to be preferred ; as they are all under the supervision of an Inspector, appointed by the railway Directors, and misconduct of the drivers, if complained of at the office, would be punished by his exclusion from the station. Notwithstanding this, however, once more we say, invariably make your bargain before employing any of those people. Passengers who proceed direct to London with the ship in which they cross the Atlantic, had better leave their luggage on board until they have housed themselves where they purpose remaining during their stay. And now, supposing all matters thus far satisfactorily arranged, and the visitor snugly ensconced in his lodgings, his next object should be to acquire a knowledge of the leading thoroughfares of the metropolis, their " bearings and distances." For this purpose, let him commence on the Thames, the course of which, though somewhat ser« pentine, is from west to east — dividing the city of Lcm- Q9 o^ don and Westminster, on the north, from Southwark and Lambeth on the south. Waterloo Bridge, from its central situation, forms a good point of departure ; — at a floating pier, or " dummy," reached by two flights of stone steps, entered upon close by the Bridge toll-house, in Welling- ton street, Strand, steamboats for Chelsea, to the west, and London Bridge, to the east, land and embark passen- gers every ten minutes. Here take a ticket for Chelsea, price twopence, (4 cts.) take a seat on the pier, and, while waiting for the steamer, there will probably be an opportunity to notice the hand- some river front and terrace of Somerset House, and the bold arches of Waterloo Bridgfe. Passinor through one of those, the little steamer on her westward course touches at Hungerford Market pier, passes under the suspension foot-bridge of that " ilk," calls also at Westminster Bridge pier, north side ; from thence " shooting" the Bridge, a cap- ital view of the new Houses of Parliament is obtained, as likewise of Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Arch- bishop of Canterbury, on the opposite side of the river. The exterior of the latter, although, perhaps, possess- ing some attraction for those whose pericraniums present large developments of the ''organ of veneration" — con- veys to the casual observer but httle idea of the magnifi- cence of its interior. Again, looking to the north, a glimpse is caught of Westminster Abbey, and St. Marga- ret's Church. Further on the boat passes in front of Mill- bank Penitentiary, an extensive prison ; then under Vaux- hall Bridge — a light and elegant structure ; the piers and abutments being of cut stone masonry, supporting arches of iron. Beyond this, on the south bank of the river, is the " Red House," celebrated in the " sporting world " as the scene where aquatic contests and pigeon-shooting matches are decided. Nearly opposite are Chelsea Hos- pital (an Asylum for disabled and veteran soldiers,) and Cheyne Walk, where the steamer lands her passengers, being the terminus of her westward trip. Disembarking 33 here, the distance is short to Chelsea Hospital, and the *' Duke of York's School" for the orphan children of soldiers,, both of which are well deserving of inspection. Returning to Cheyne Walk, take the boat for London Bridge — the fare twopence, (4 cents) repassing the scenes and objects already noticed, until, to the east of Somerset House, and on the same side, you see the " Temple Gar- dens," a favorite promenade of the " Citizens" on fine evenings ; Blackfriar's Bridge, Southwark Bridge, (iron, and something like that at Vauxhall,) and London Bridge — the eastern destination of the Chelsea lines of steamers. While descending the river from Waterloo Bridge, the site of the " City " can at once be distinguished by the great number of church-towers, spires and steeples crowded within a comparatively limited space. Among those, and not far from the river, the magnificent dome of St. Paul's Cathedral stands conspicuous ; as likewise the " Monu- ment" erected to commemorate the "great fire of Lon- don"* in the year 1666. Not many years ago the -base of the monument bore an inscription, imputing the tremendous conflagration it briefly describes to Roman Catholic agency — a charge summarily disposed of by the celebrated Doctor Johnson, in those pithy lines : " London's huge column pointing to the skies. Like a tall bully, lifts its head and lies." This judgment of the austere, but truth-loving moralist, was eventually affirmed by a vote of the Corporation of the City of London, ordaining the erasure of the injurious ac- cusation. At London Bridge take a steamer to the " Thames Tun- nel" pier; fare twopence (4 cents). You will then pass the Custom House and the " Tower," on the north side, and through quite a forest of shipping, moored in tiers on * Commencing, according to authentic records, at " Pudding Lane,*' and ending at " Pie Corner." 34 both sides of the river, till you reach the Tunnel " dummy," at Wapping ; land here and visit the " Tunnel," — admit- tance one penny (2 cents) — passing under the bed of the river to the opposite side. The completion of this work, under circumstances most discouraging, was one of the greatest triumphs, over obstacles apparently insurmounta- ble, ever achieved by engineering skill and indomitable per- severance. Retracing your footsteps to Wapping, inquire your way from "Old Gravel Lane," by the "New Road," to "Whitechapel Road," where take an omnibus for the "Strand," — fare sixpence (12 cents) — which, if you wish, will " set you down" at Wellington street, near Waterloo Bridge, from whence you took your departure, or carry you on, through Charing Cross, Waterloo Place, and Piccadilly, to " Hyde Park Corner," one of the principal Western en- trances into the " Modern Babylon." The London omni- buses take five outside passengers — including a seat on the "box," alongside the driver — whence all objects worth noticing can be better observed than from the interior ; be- sides which, any information required can be at once ob- tained from the "coachman," whilst a knowledge of some important town localities is also gained. On the route from " Whitechapel Turnpike" to " Hyde Park Corner," by the " Strand," the following will be passed in succession : The Jews' Hospital ; The East India House ; The Royal Exchange ; The Bank of England ; The Mansion House (residence of the Lord Mayor) ; St. PauTs Cathedral ; Temple Bar ; St. Clement's Church ; The New Church ; King's College ; Somerset House (Strand front) ; The National Gallery ; Statue of Charles I. ; Nelson's Pillar ; Statue of the Duke of Wellington ; Statue of George III. ; Italian Opera House ; Duke of York's Column; The Green Park; Apsley House (the residence of the Duke of Wellington) ; Hyde Park Gates, and the Colossal " Achilles" Statue, cast from cannon taken from the French army during the Peninsular War, and erected by subscription from the ladies of England, the great ma- 35 jority of whom, it is to be presumed, were not aware what a " brazen" affair — in every sense of the word — was in con- templation. The nudity of his '* Achilleship" is, indeed, at once most correctly referred to, and fairly criticised, in the following verse from a comic song, lamenting the de- parture of " The Good Old Days of Adam and Eve :" " When ladies and gentlemen without balking Could go into Hyde Park a-walking, And there, without any fuss or pother, Parade from one end to the other. But now there is a brazen sta-ty. That seems ashamed, for he can't look at ye, Some people say it is a tro-phy. But the women won't look, and the men cry O, fie !" Opposite to Hyde Park entrance is the Triumphal Arch, and massive gates, leading into St. James's Park ; the arch- way surmounted by a bronze statue of the Duke of Wel- lington, weighing forty tons, the modern costume of which " Punch" has keenly satirized. The streets traversed from Whitechapel hither are suc- cessively : Leadenhall street ; Cornhill ; The Poultry ; Cheapside ; St. Paul's Churchyard ; Ludgate Hill ; Fleet street ; St, Clement's Churchyard ; The Strand ; Charing Cross ; Waterloo Place, and Piccadilly. The trip down the river, from Chelsea, will impress upon the memory of the observant visitor a correct idea of the general bearings of the streets of London ; — the principal thoroughfares running either parallel to, or at right angles with the Thames ; many of the latter abutting on the bridges. 36 CHAPTER IV. Hyde-Park, Oxford street, and Holborn— St. Giles— London Bridge— Mooregate street— Finsbury Square— City Road— Islington— Penton- ville— Euston Square— Paddington—Edgeware Road— Regent street —The Quadrant— Waterloo Place— Bridge St.— Westminster Bridge — Hungerford Market— Drury-Lane and Covent Garden Theatres— Blackfriar's Bridge- Farringdon street. Our next excursion, for the purpose of becoming ac- quainted with the *' navigation" of the streets of London, commences at Hyde Park Corner, whence a pleasant walk across the Park, passing near the " Crystal Palace," leads to " Cumberland Gate." Here take an omnibus for the " Bank," which will traverse Oxford street, Holborn, New- gate street, Cheapside, and the Poultry, to the Bank of England. This route, like that by the Strand, runs parallel with the course of the river, but a little farther to the north. In passing along it, you will notice St. Giles' Church, near which was the noted " Rookery," (now form- ing part of Holborn,) and "Back-Slums," wherein was lo- cated the beggars' " House of Call," renowned, in " days of yore," as the favorite resort of those gentry, and where, when successful in the exercise of their vocation, they in- dulged, after the civic fashion, in luxurious suppers, of which "an Alderman in chains," (roast turkey and sausa- ges,) always formed a leading feature. On " Snow-Hill," (Holborn,) stands St. Sepulchre's Church, from whose belfry is tolled the last knell of all unfortunate criminals executed in front of Newgate prison, nearly opposite. At the end of Newgate street next to Cheapside, is the general Post Office, in St. Martin's-le-Grand ; — it is a very large and handsome building, well calculated for its pur- pose. On descending from the omnibus, at the Bank, .37 walk into that establishment, the public offices of which are, of course, open to all, during business hours. To see the process of " manufacturing" bank notes, (which is effected by a most ingenious piece of machinery, the invention of an Irish miniature painter named Oldham,) and to visit the bullion vaults — quite a snug little " sorter" California placer — an order from a bank director is necessary. From the Bank pass over to the Royal Exchange, outside of which is an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington ; and on a pedestal, in the centre of the inside area of the handsome and well-arranged structure, stands a full length marble figure of Queen Victoria. Both of those pieces of sculpture are considered to be first-rate specimens of art. On 'Change, between the hours of one and three o'clock, P.M., mer- chants from, and doing business with, every part of the globe, " most do congregate," and " there and then," on the " American walk," any of our friends from the " States,'* whose afi[airs call them thither, will assuredly be met with. From the Exchano-e p-o to the Mansion House, and see the "' Egyptian Hall," and coming out take a look — as far as its bashful concealment behind the Mansion House will ad- mit of — -"at the architectural beauty of the exterior of Wall- brook Church, a work of the celebrated Inigo Jones. Then proceed down King William street to the " Monument," on Fish street Hill. The ascent to the gallery, on its summit, is by a long geometrical flight of stone steps, and on a clear day, the view from above is more extensive, and finer than is generally anticipated, when the vast cloud of smoke, always hanging over the metropolis, is taken into consideration. The height of the gallery is about 200 feet from the ground ; and in consequence of two cases of suicide, by persons throwing themselves over the railing, it is now covered with iron bars — forming a sort of cage/ — to prevent the recurrence of such frightful events. The charge for admittance is sixpence, (12 cents.) From the Monument return into King William street, and continue on to London Bridge, from whence there is 4 38 a good view both up and down the river. Retracing your steps to the Bank, pass along Prince's street to Moorgate street, from the coi^ner of which the Paddington omnibus- es start ; take a seat upon one of those, (fare sixpence — 12 cents) and you will be carried, first in a northern di- rection, by Moorgate street, Finsbury Square, into the City Road, and then, turning westward, along the New Road — passing by Islington, Pentonville, Euston Square, and Paddington — to the Edgeware Road, where you will again have recourse to the " ten-toed carriage used by Irish Haymakers," and turning your face to the southward, go "straight ahead" until you reach Cumberland Gate. On returning here you will have completed the exploration of the four great parallel lines of communication leading east and west throughout the whole length of London, namely — the river Thames, the Strand, and Oxford street and their continuations, and the New Road and " ditto." You will also have traversed two of the principal thorough- fares running north and south, viz : from Hyde Park Cor- ner to Paddington, (New Road,) and from London Bridge to the City Road. To complete your parallels in this last direction, walk along Oxford street (from Cumberland Gate) until you strike Regent street, on the right hand, and there either get upon an omnibus (marked " Elephant and Castle") or continue your promenade to the south- ward, passing along Regent street, the " Quadrant." Wa- terloo Place, east end of Pall Mall, Charing Cross, White- hall, Parliament street, and Bridge street, to Westminster Bridge, where you will have another good view — up and down — of the river. On this route notice the splendid shops and fine buildings in Regent street ; the handsome colonnades in the Quadrant — the Parthenon Club House, and that of the Junior United Service Club, in Waterloo Place ; the Senior United Service Club, the Athenaeum, and the " Reform" Club House, in Pall Mall ; the Duke of York's Monument (admittance to the top sixpence — 12 cents,) Carlton Terrace ; the Admiralty ; the Horse Guards, 39 with two stalwart Life Guardsmen mounted on colossal chargers, each standing at "attention," in a sort of porch " cubb3'-house," on either side of the entrance ; and the "Banqueting House, Whitehall (opposite), in front of which King Charles I. was beheaded ; (in the open space behind the building there will be found, if carefully sought for, a very beautiful bronze statue of that unfortunate ( monarch.) The Treasury ; and " Downing street," where the " official residence" of the Prime Minister of Eno^land, for the time bemg, is situated. Returning to Charing Cross proceed eastward, along the Strand, (looking in upon Hungerford Market-^-first turning on the right hand) as far as Catherine street, lead- ing into Brydges street, in which Drury Lane Theatre is located — and near by, in Bow street, is Covent Garden Theatre, now used as an Italian Opera House, in rivalry of that in the Hay market. In Bow street is also the Head Police Office of Westmirrster, and the bar where some of the most atrocious criminals that ever encumbered the earth have stood during the preliminary inquiry into the particulars of their misdeeds. In the immediate vicinity is Covent Garden Market, vs^ell-stored with vegetables, fruit, aftd flowers ; all of which, in their respective seasons, may be purchased at prices reasonable enough for such a place as London, but held at exorbitant rates when "forced" to meet the demand, and tempt the morbid cravings of the luxurious sons and daughters of opulence and fashion. Once more make your way to the Strand, and resume your eastward course to Temple Bar, the city boundary in this quarter. Close at hand is the ''Temple" — once a Preceptory of the renowned order of Knights Templars — *' soldiers of the cross," whose zeal in the cause, spiced with no slight seasoning of ambition, elevated them to a high rank in every Court of Christendom — but now, alas ! a mere nest of tough old — and nursery for "sucking" — law- yers, in course of "feeding" (Anglice — "eating their 40 terms,") as an indispensable qualification — sometimes almost the only one they can boast — to their being en- rolled in the long list of those who are legally authorized to advocate the interests of such clients as may fall into their clutches ; a clutch which, under the guidance of a steadily fixed and nimquam dormiuni eye, is rarely relaxed |until it has secured the "Lion's share" of any property that comes under their control. The old Templars' Church, open for divine service every Sunday morning, and the garden (already noticed), on the banks of the Thames, ac- cessible every fine evening, are each worthy of visit. From the Temple continue your walk to Bridge street, Blackfriar's ; go upon the Bridge and see the river from that point of view, then once more turning your counte- nance to the north, work your way by Bridge street, and Farringdon street, to Holborn Bridge ; there turn to the right hand (eastward), into Skinner street, Snow Hill, passing once more by St. Sepulchre's Church, at the east end of which again take a northerly course (turning to the left), passing the Compter prison, and St. Bartholemew's Hospital, into Smithfield. Crossing the market, continue your perigrination northward, by way of St. John street, until you reach the "Angel," at Islington. Here you, come upon the New Road, which you have already tra- versed when riding from Moorgate street to the Edgeware Road. So having now described how a good practical ac- quaintanceship with all parts of the town — East, West, North and South — can most easily be attained, our next care shall be to show how the knowledge acquired may most satisfactorily be rendered available. 41 CHAPTER V. Economical and Comfortable Meals — Breakfast and the " Morning Pa- ?6rs" — Dinner — Tea and the *' Evening Papers" — Smoking Divans — 'ea Gardens— White Conduit House— The "Eagle"— The "Shades." Before commencing our daily excursions to view the ** sights" of London, we shall submit to the economical visitor some information for his guidance, as regards the *' victualling department," which will be found highly use- ful in demonstrating how and where good, wholesome and comfortable meals can be procured, without departing from the principles of a sound and " wholesome" economy. We have already said that we question the expediency of breakfasting at your private lodgings ; but as some may prefer taking that meal before leaving their temporary home for the day, lay in the following small store of '^ con- sumables" as a beginning — Quarter-of-a-pound of mixed tea, onf, (solid,) the dealer must answer truly; any decep- tion in that respect being severely and promptly punished, and redress at once obtained on application to the Tribu- nal e de Police Correct ionelle,^ The Paris post office is located in the Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau. The -environs of Paris offer g-reat inducements to visitors. A favorite walk of ours was through the delightful Champs Elysp.es to the Triumphal Arch at the Barriere de Vttoile, and so on, by the Avenue de NeuUlii, to the bridge and village of that name. Another to Montrnartre, from the heights of which there is an extensive view of the " Vil- lage,'" as the Badauds (Parisian " Cits") call their great capital. When fairly outside cjf the Barrieres, wines, brandies, &g., are not subject to the Octroi, or town dues, and are there- fore sold much under the city prices. With our sandwich- box plenished, we can always enter any of the (^u n eltes, or public gardens, call for a denii-litre of wine, (the vin hlanc oidimaire is always much better than the red) — price * Would not a law lifee this be useful in putting an end to *' mock aao- tioa" tricks in New-York ? 108 from 6 to 9 sous (cents), and make a good repast. The PEOPLE of all countries are the class best worth studying, and at the various places of refreshment and amusement beyond the limits described, the true character of the Parisian ** masses" will, on ftte days, Sundays and Mon- days, be seen in all its native joyousness. The traveller will of course visit Versailles — reached by railway — and its renowned palace, gardens, and fountains, as well as the Grande and the Petite Trianon, in the ad- joining park, with their antique and unique decorations, furniture, and other rare contents. Let him also give a day to St. Cloud, going by steamer down the Seine, fare one franc (20 cents,) starting from the Quai cT Orsai, and re- turning by any of the ordinary conveyances, passing through the Bois de Boulogne, and the villages of Auteil and Passy ; fare one franc (20 cents) for each passenger. See likewise the celebrated manufactory of porcelaine at Sevres (on the road to Versailles), where a few hours may be most agreeably passed. Visit the cathedral of JHotre Dame and the JIdtel JDieu — a vast public hospital — if your stay in the Gallic me- tropolis will admit. A day or two before quitting Paris, apply at the Prefec- ture of Police, Rue de Jerusalem, for your original pass- port ; take it to the American minister for his signature, return to the Prefecture to get it viae'd for re-embarkation to England, or the United States, as you may decide. The cost will be ten francs (|2) for which you will always have your passport to show " whar you 've bin to." Friendly reader, we have faithfully fulfilled our self-im- posed task — we trust to your entire satisfaction. — Adieu ! ' - APPROVED OF BY THE IIO'N. C. MORGAN, SSJSCKETARY OF STAT£j SUPERINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS, N. Y., ETC., ETC AN UNFAILING GUIDE TO THE GENDEKS OF FRENCH NOUNS. BY J. C. GORDON. PUBLISHED BY STRINGER AND TOWNSEND, 222 BROADWAY, NEW-i'ORK, And may be had of all Booksellers. Price 25 cents. The difiELcult subject of the genders of French nouns is herein treated on quite a novel plan, based upon a system of alphabetical and syllabic terminations, perfectly simple, and easily committed to and retained in memory. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. {From the "Home Journal.") " There is no 'royal road' to knowledge ; but, nevertheless, it is cer- tain that system and arrangement, when the result of intelligent and patient research, are invariably successful in overcoming difficulties which, at the first glance, appear formidable. The genders of French nouns have always been ' stumbling-blocks' in the way of both tyros and tolerable proficients in the French tongue. These it is the object of the treatise before us to remove, and the plan adopted is well calculated for the purpose. The rales given are principally based on alphabetical ter- minations, simple, and easily remembered. Thus, we find that, with a few exceptions, which are enumerated,' all French nouns ending with any of the first four letters of the alphabet are masculine, and so on ; whilst in the 'Addenda' of 'nouns masculine ending in E mute,' the sylla- bic terminations are so ' noted' as to require but little effort to impress them on the memory. £x. gr. — All nouns ending in ' logue' are mas- culine, with only one exception ; and so with regard to other 'common' terminations. The work is the first of the kind that has ever ajjpeared, and will be found highly useful." {From the "New York Tribune.") "The rules laid down are simple and comprehensive, and maybe made use of to great advantage in connection with every French gram- mar." {From the Literary World.) " This guide consists of a collection of rules, simple in their character, and as clear, probably, as can be deduced from this intricate subject " " A well digested Treatise, and highly valuable as an assistant lo the French Teacher."— iVeu; York Herald. " This little work supplies a want long felt by those anxious to acquire a correct knowledge of the French language."— iVcw' ForA; Sim.