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W. H. H. MURRAY.
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ADVENTURES
IN THE
ADIRONDACKS
h kindled a thousand camp fires, and taugln
usiiiid f>ens how to ■write of nature. — Wendell Phillips.
BOSTON: CUPPLES & HURD,
Entered at the Post Office, Boston, aa
second-class matter.
impoi'tant New Books.
A New Book by W. H. H. Murray.
DAYLIGHT LAND. The experiences, incidents, and adveutureS; humorous
and otherwise, which befell Judge John Doe, Tourist, of San Francisco;
Mr Cephas Pepperell, Capitalist, of Boston ; Colonel Goffe, the Man
from New Hampshire, and divers others, in tlieir Parlor-Car Excursion ovet
Prairie and Mountain ; as recorded and set forth by W. H. H. Murray.
Superbly illustrated with 150 cuts in various colors by the best artists.
Contents: — Introduction — The Meeting — A Breakfast — A Very Hopeful
Alan — The Big Nepigon Trout — The Man in the Velveteen Jacket — The
Capitalist — Camp at Rush Lake — Big Game — A Strange Midnight Ride
— Banff — Sunday among the Mountains — Nameless Mountains — The Great
( llacier — The Hermit of Frazer Canon — Fish and Fishing in British Colum-
l>ia — Vancouver City — Parting at Victoria.
Svo. 350 pages. Unique paper covers, $2.y>\ half leather binding, 53.50.
Mr. Murray has chosen the north-western side of the continent for the scene
of this book ; a region of country which is little known by the average reader,
but which in its scenery, its game, and its vast material and undeveloped
resources, supplies tlie author with a subject which has not been trenched upon
even by the magazines, and which he has treated in that lively and spirited
manner for which he is especially gifted. The result is a volume full of novel
information of the country, humorous and pathetic incidents, vivid descriptions
of its magnificent -scenery, shrewd forecasts of its future wealth and greatness
when developed, illustrated and embellished with such lavishness and artistic
elegance as has never before been attempted in any similar work in this coun-
try.
ADIRONDACK TALES. By VV. H. H. Mikkav. Illustrated. i2mo.
300 pages. $1.25,
Containing John Norton's Christmas — Henry Herbert's Thanksgiving — .K
-Strange Visitor — Lost in the Woods — A Jolly. Camp — Was it Suicide? —
I'lie Gambler's Death — The Old Beggar's Dog — The Ball — Wlio was he ?
Short stories in Mr. Murray's best vein — humorous; pathetic; full of the
ipirit of tlie woods.
HOW DEACON TUBMAN AND PARSON WHITNEY KEPT
NEW YEARS, and other Stories. By W. H. H. Murray. i6mo.
Illustrated. Ji.ij.
A HEART REGAINED. By Carmen Svlva (Queen of Roumania)
Translated by Mary A. Mitchell. Fcap. Svo. Cloth. |i.oo.
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manner, and showing how patient waiting attains to ultimate reward.
Cupples and HurJ, ""fiooksl^/iers. BOSTON
Library Ag^fufs,
ADVENTURES
THE WILDERNESS;
OR,
CAMP-LIFE IN THE ADIRONDACKS
WILLIAM H. H. MURRAY.
"The mountains call you, and the vales;
The woods, the streams, and each ambrosial breeze
That fans the e\er-undulating sky."
ARMSTRONG'S Art of Presemins Hcxlth
U'iTH ILL U^ TRA TWNS.
BOSTO]Sr
CUPPLES AND HURD
PL'BLISHERS
r:
Entered according to Act of Congress, m the year 1869, by
FIEIiDS, OSGOOD, & CO.,
n the Clerk's OfBce of the District Court of tlie District of Massachusetts
Printed by CUPPLES AND HURD at
Wc^z SIgonqiitu ^rcss.
27 Eeach Street, Boston.
To my friend ami companion, 0. II. Platt, of Meriden,
Conn., witli whom I have passed many happy hom'S by
mountain and stream, and shared the sportsman's tri-
umph and the sportsman's toil; in memory of many a
tramp and midnight bivouac, and as a token of my very
sincere regard and friendship, this book is affectionately
dedicated.
W. H. H. M.
Boston, April, 1869.
/
NEW EOUTE TO THE ADIEONDACKS.
ON page 42 of this work the author com-
mends the Keeseville route to parties enter-
ing the wilderness from Lake Champlain. Since
its publication, information has reached him of
such a nature as to induce the recommendation
of the Plattsloi^g route as well.
The latter is comparatively an easy route.
From Plattsburg cars run to Point of Eocks (or
Ausahle Forks), intersecting the Keeseville road,
and saving some sixteen miles of unpleasant
staging from Port Kent. At Fouquet's Hotel,
I'lattsburg, every facility for rest and prepara-
tion can he had. At Point of Eocks parties can
arrange to meet their means of conveyance to
JNIartin's, Smith's, Bartlett's, and other houses at
St. Eegis.
Invalids, or persons not in robust health, Avho
may venture upon this trip, will find Plattsburg
a pleasant and convenient place for recuperation
before cutting loose from all the amenities of
civilization.
The author would particularly advise all par-
ties, before starting, to engage by letter convey-
ance from Point of Eocks to their destination.
CONTENTS.
Introduction
I. TnE Wilderness.
s
Why I go to the Wilderness
Sporting Facihties ....
What it costs in the Wilderness
Outfit
Where to buy Tackle
Guides .......
How to get to the Wilderness .
Hotels
When to visit the Wilderness .
Healthfulness of Camp Life .
What Sections of the Wilderness to visit
Black Flies
Mosquitoes .....
Ladies' Outfit
Wild Animals
Provisions ......
Bill of Fare
IL The Nameless Creek
in. Running the Rapids
lY. The Ball
Pags
9
15
21
2G
30
32
40
44
43
50
52
55
50
58
60
62
62
65
VI CONTENTS.
V. Loon-Shooting in a Thunder-Storm . .101
VI. Crossing the Carry 114
VII. EoD AND Reel 126
VIII. Phantom Falls 141
IX. Jack-Shooting in a Foggy Night . .168
X. Sabbath in the Woods .... 193
XI. A Ride with a Mad Horse in a Freight-
Car • . 203
APPENDIX.
Beach's Sight 233
INTRODUCTION.
SEVEEAL of the chapters composing tliis
vohime were originally published in the
" Meriden Literary Eecorder," during the fall and
winter of 1867. Tln-ougli it they received a wide
circulation, and brouglit to the author many let-
ters from all parts of the country, urging him to
continue the series, and, when completed, publish
them in a more permanent form. Lawyers, 'phj-
sicians, clergymen, and sporting men were united
for once in the expression of a common desire.
Not a few delightful acquaintances were made
through this medium. It was suggested by these
unseen friends, that such a series of descriptive
pieces, unencumbered with the ordinary reflec-
tions and jottings of a tourist's book, free from
the slang of guides, and questionable jokes, and
'■' bear stories," with which works of a similar
character have to a great extent been filled, would
be gladly welcomed by a large number of people
who, born in the country, and familiar in boy-
hood with the gun and rod, still retain, in un-
8 LMHODUO riON.
diminislied freshness and vigor, their early lovo
for manly exercises and field sports. Each article,
it was urged, should stand alone by itself, having
its own framework of time and character, and
representing a single experience. The favorable re-
ception the articles thus published received, and the
cordial communications from total strangers which
they elicited, together with a strong, ever-present
desire on my part to encourage manly exercise in
the open air, and familiarity with Nature in lier
wildest and grandest aspects, persuaded me into
concurrence with the suggestion. The composi-
tion of these articles has furnished me, amid grave
and arduous labors, with mental recreation, from
time to time, almost equal to that which I enjoyed
when passing through the experiences which they
are intended to describe.
In the hope that w]mt I have written may con-
tribute to the end suggested, and prove a source
of pleasure to many who, like myself, were " born
of hunter's breed and blood," and avIio, pent up in
narrow offices and narrower studies, weary of the
city's din, long for a breath of mountain air and
the free life by field and flood, I subscribe myself
their friend and brother.
I.
THE WILDERNESS.
WHY I GO THERE, — HOW I GET THERE, — WHAT I
DO THERE, — AND WHAT IT COSTS.
THE Adirondack Wilderness, or the " Nortli
Woods," as it is sometimes called, lies be-
tween the Lakes George and Champlain on the
east, and the river St. Lawrence on the north
and west. It reaches northward as far as the
Canada line, and southward to Booneville. Its
area is about that of the State of Connecticut.
The southern part is known as the Brown Tract
liegion, with which the whole wilderness by
some is confused, but with no more accuracy than
any one county might be said to comprise an
entire State. Indeed, " Brown's Tract " is the least
interesting portion of the Adirondack region. It
lacks the loiiy mountain scenery, the intricate
mesh-work of lakes, and the wild grandeur of the
country to the north. It is the lowland district,
comparatively tame and uninviting. Not until
you reach the Racquette do you get a glimpse of
the magnificent scenery which makes tliis wilder-
ness to ri\-al Switzerland. There, on the very
1*
10 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
ridge-board of the vast water-shed which slopes
northward to the St. Lawrence, eastward to the
Hudson, and southward to the Mohawk, you can
enter upon a voyage the like of which, it is safe
to say, the world does not anywhere else furnish.
For hundreds of miles I have boated up and down
that wilderness, going ashore only to " carry "
around a fall, or across some narrow ridge divid-
ing the otherwise connected lakes. For weeks I
have paddled my cedar shell in all directions,
swinging northerly into the St. Regis chain, west-
ward nearly to Potsdam, southerly to the Black
Eiver country, and from thence penetrated to that
almost un visited region, the " South Branch," with-
out seeing a face but my guide's, and the entire
circuit, it must be remembered, was through a
■wilderness yet to echo to the lumberman's axe.
It is estimated that a thousand lakes, many yet
unvisited, lie embedded in this vast forest of pine
and hemlock. From the summit of a mountain,
two years ago, I counted, as seen by my naked
eye, forty-four lakes gleaming amid the depths
of the wilderness like gems of purest ray amid the
folds of emerald-colored velvet. Last summer I
met a gentleman on the Eacquette who had just
received a letter from a brother in Switzerland, an
artist by profession, in which he said, that, " having
tra\'elled over all Switzerland, and the Ehine
Qjad Ehone region, he had not met with scenery
WHY I GO THERE. H
which, judged from a purely artistic point of view,
combined so many beauties in connection with
such grandeur as the lakes, mountains, and forest
of the Adirondack region presented to the gazer's
eye." And yet thousands are in Europe to-day
as tourists who never gave a passing thought to
this marvellous country lying as it were at their
very doors.
Another reason why I visit the Adirondacks,
and 'urge others to do so, is because I deem the
excursion eminently adapted to restore impaired
health. Indeed, it is marvellous what benefit
physically is often derived from a trip of a few
weeks to these woods. To such as are afflicted
with that dire parent of ills, dyspepsia, or have
lurking in their system consumptive tendencies,
I most earnestly recommend a month's experience
among the pines. The air which you there inhale
is such as can be found only in high mountainous
regions, pure, rarefied, and bracing. The amount
of venison steak a consumptive will consume
after a week's residence in that appetizing at-
mosphere is a subject of daily and increasing
wonder. I have laiown delicate ladies and fragile
igchool-girls, to whom all food at home was dis-
tasteful and eating a pure matter of duty, average
a gain of a pound per day for the round trij).
This is no exaggeration, as some who will read
these lines know. The spruce, hemlock, balsam.
12 ADVKNTIKES liN THK WILDKKXKSS.
and pine, wliicli largely compose this wilderness,
yield upon tlie air, and especially at night, all
their curative qualities. Many a night have I
laid down uj)on my bed of balsam-boughs and
been lulled to sleep by the murmur of waters
and the low sighing melody of the pines, while
the air was laden with the mingled perfume
of cedar, of balsam and the water-lily. Not a
few, far advanced in that dread disease, consump-
tion, have found in this wilderness renewal of life
and health. I recall a young man, the son of
wealthy parents in New York, w^ho lay dying in
that great city, attended as he was by the best
skill that money could secure. A friend calling
upon him one day chanced to speak of the Adir<)n-
dacks, and that many had found help from a trip
to their region. From that moment he pined for
the woods. He insisted on what his family called
" his insane idea," that the mountain air and the
aroma of the forest would cure him. It was his
daily request and entreaty that he might go.
At last his parents consented, the more readily
because the physicians assured them that their
son's recovery was impossible, and his death a
mere matter of time. They started with him for
the north in search of life. When he arrived at
the point where he was to meet his guide he was
too reduced to walk. The guide seeing his con-
dition refused to take lam into the woods, fear-
WHY 1 GO THERE. 13
ing, as he plainly expressed it, that he would "die
on his hands." At last another guide was pre-
vailed upon to serve him, not so much for the
money, as he afterwards told me, but because he
pitied the young man, and felt that " one so near
death as he wais should be gratified even in his
whims."
Tlie boat was half filled with cedar, pine, and
balsam boughs, and the young man, carried in the
arms of his guide from the house, was laid at full
length upon them. The camp vitensils were put
at one end, the guide seated himseK at the other,
and the little boat passed with the living and the
dying down the lake, and was lost to the group
watching them amid the islands to the south.
This was in early June. The first week the guide
carried the young man on his l)ack over all the
portages, lifting him in and out of the boat as he
might a child. But the healing properties of the
balsam and pine, which were his bed by day and
night, began to exert their powder. Awake or
asleep, he inhaled their fragrance. Their pungent
and healing odors penetrated his diseased and
irritated lungs. Tlie second day out his cough
was less sharp and painful. At the end of the
first week he could walk by leaning on the pad-
dle. The second week he needed no support.
The third week the cough ceased entirely. From
that time he improved with wonderful rapidity.
14 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
He " went in " the first of June, carried in the
arms of liis guide. The second week of Novem-
ber he " came out " bronzed as an Indian, and as
hearty. In five months he had gained sixty-five
pounds of flesh, and flesh, too, " weU packed on,"
as they say in the woods. Coming out he car-
ried tlie boat over all portages ; the very same
over which a few months before the guide had
carried him, and pulled as strong an oar as any
amateur in the wilderness. His meeting with
his family I leave the reader to imagine. The
wilderness received him almost a corpse. It re-
turned him to his home and the world as happy
and healthy a man as ever bivouacked under its
pines.
This, I am aware, is an extreme case, and, as
such, may seem exaggerated ; but it is not. I
might instance many other cases which, if less
startling, are equally corroborative of the general
statement. There is one sitting near me, as I
write, the color of whose cheek, and the clear
brightness of whose eye, cause my heart to go out
in ceaseless gratitude to the woods, amid which
she found that health and strength of which they
are the proof and sign. For five summers have
we visited the wilderness. From four to seven
weeks, each year, have we breathed the breath of
the mountains ; bathed in the waters which sleep
at their base ; and made our couch at night of
SPORTING FACILITIES. 15
moss and balsam-boughs, beneath the whispering
trees. I feel, therefore, that I am able to speak
from experience touching this matter ; and I be-
lieve that, all things being considered, no portion
of our country surpasses, if indeed any equals, in
health-giving qualities, the Adirondack Wilderness.
SPORTING FACILITIES.
This wilderness is often called the " Sportsman's
Paradise " ; and so I hold it to be, when all its ad-
vantages are taken into account. If any one goes
to the North Woods, expecting to see droves of deer,
he will return disappointed. He can find them
west and north, around Lake Superior, and on the
Plains ; but nowhere east of the AUeghanies. Or
if one expects to find troTit averaging three or four
pounds, eager to break surface, no matter where or
when he casts his fly, he will come back from his
trip a " sadder and a wiser man." If tliis is his
idea of what constitutes a " sportsman's paradise,"
I advise him not to go to the Adirondacks. Deer
and trout do not abound there in any such num-
bers : and yet there are enough of both to satisfy
any reasonable expectation. Gentlemen often ask
me to compare the " North Woods " witli the
" Maine Wilderness." The fact is, it is difficult to
make any comparison between the two sections,
16 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
they are so unlike. But I am willing to gi\'e in}-
reasons of preference for the Adirondacks. The
fact is, nothing could induce me to visit Maine.
If I was going east at all, I should keep on, nor
stop until I reached the Provinces. I could never
bring my mind to pass a mouth in Maine, with
the North Woods within forty-eight hours of me.
I will tell you Avhy. Go where you will, in
Maine, the lumhcrmen have been before you ; and
lumbermen are the curse and scourge of the wil-
derness. Wherever the axe sounds, the pride and
beauty of the forest disappear. A lumbered dis-
trict is the most dreary and dismal region the eye
of man ever beheld. The mountains are not
merely shorn of trees, but from base to summit
fires, kindled by accident or malicious purpose,
have sw^ept their sides, leaving the blackened
rocks exposed to the eye, and here and there a few
unsightly trunks leaning in all directions, from
which all the branches and green foliage have been
burnt away. The streams and trout-pools are
choked with saw-dust, and filled with slabs and
logs. The rivers are blockaded with "booms"
and lodged timber, stamped all over the ends with
the owner's "mark." Every eligible site for a
camp has been appropriated ; and bones, offal,
horse-manure, and all the cUhris of a deserted
lumbermen's village is strewai around, offensive
both to eye and nose. The hills and shores are
SPORTING FACILITIES. 17
littered ■svitli rotten wood, in all stages of decom-
position, emitting a damj), mouldy odor, and send-
ing forth countless millions of flies, gnats, and mos-
quitoes to prey upon you. Now, no number of
deer, no quantities of trout, can entice me to such
a locality. He who fancies it can go ; not I. In
the Adirondack Wilderness you escape this. There
the lumberman has never been. No axe has
sounded along its mountain-sides, or echoed across
its peaceful waters. The forest stands as it has
stood, from the beginning of time, in all its maj-
esty of growth, in all the beauty of its unshorn
foliage. No fires have blackened the hills ; no
logs obstruct the rivers ; no saw-dust taints and
colors its crystal waters. The promontories which
stretch themselves half across its lakes, the islands
which hang as if suspended in their waveless and
translucent depths, have never been marred b}''
the presence of men careless of all but gain. You
choose the locality which l)est suits your eye, and
build your lodge under unscarred trees, and upon
a carpet of moss, untrampled by man or beast.
There you live in silence, unbroken by any sounds
save such as you yourself may make, away from
all the business and cares of civilized life.
Another reason of my preference for the Adiron-
dack region is based upon the mode and manner in
which your sporting is done. Now I do not plead
guilty to the vice of laziness. If necessary, I can
18 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
work, and work sliarply ; but I have no special
love for labor, in itseK considered; and certain
kinds of work, I am free to confess, I abhor ; and
if there is one kind of work which I detest more
than another, it is tramping; and, above all,
tramping through a lumbered district. How the
thorns lacerate you ! How the brambles tear your
clothes and pierce your flesh ! How the mesh-
work of fallen tree-tops entangles you ! I would
not walk two miles tlirough such a country for all
the trout that swim ; and as for ever casting a
fly from the slippery surface of an old mill-dam,
no one ever saw me do it, nor ever will. I do not
say that some may not find amusement in it.
I only know that I could not. Now, in the North
Woods, owing to their marvellous water-communi-
cation, you do all your sporting from your boat.
If you wish to go one or ten miles for a " fish," your
guide paddles you to the spot, and serves you while
you handle the rod. This takes from recreation
every trace of toil. You have all the excitement of
sporting, without any attending physical weariness.
And what luxury it is to course along the shores
of these secluded lakes, or glide down the winding
reaches of these rivers, overhung by the outlying
pines, and fringed with water-lilies, mingling their
fragrance with the odors of cedar and balsam ! To
me this is better than tramping. I ha\e sported
a month at a time, without walldng as many miles
SPORTING FACILiriES. 19
as there were weeks in the month. To my mind,
this peculiarity elevates the Adirondack region
above all its rivals, East or West, and more than all
else justifies its otherwise pretentious claim as a
" Sportsman's Paradise." In beauty of scenery, in
health-giving qualities, in the easy and romantic
manner of its sporting, it is a paradise, and so will
it continue to be while a deer leaves his track
upon the shores of its lakes, or a trout shows
himseK above the surface of its waters. It is this
peculiarity also which makes an excursion to this
section so easy and delightful to ladies. Tliere is
nothing in the trip which the most delicate and
fragile need fear. And it is safe to say, that, of all
who go into the woods, none enjoy the experiences
more than ladies, and certain it is that none are
more benefited by it.
But what about game, I hear the reader inquire.
Are deer plenty ? Is the fishing good ? Well,
I reply, every person has his own standard by
which to measure a locality, and therefore it is
difficult to answer with precision. Moreover, it
is not alone the presence of game which makes
good sporting. Many other considerations, such
as the skill of the sportsman, and the character
and ability of the guide, enter into this problem
and make the solution difficult. A poor shot, and
a green hand at the rod, will have poor success
anywhere, no matter how good the sportmg is;
20 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
and I have known parties to be "starved out,"
where other men, with better guides, were meeting
with royal success. With a guide who under-
stands his business, I would undertake to feed a
party of twenty persons the season through, and
seldom should they sit down to a meal lacking
either trout or venison. I passed six weeks on
the Eacquette last summer, and never, save at one
meal, failed to see both of the two delicious arti-
cles of diet on my table. Generally speaking, no
inconvenience is experienced in this direction.
Always observing the rule, not to kill more than
the camp can eat, which a true sportsman never
transgresses, I have paddled past more deer
within easy range than I ever lifted my rifle at.
The same is true in reference to trout. I have
unjointed my rod wlien the water was alive with
leaping fish, and experienced more pleasure as I
sat and saw them rise for food or i)lay, than any
thoughtless violator of God's laws could feel in
wasting the stores which Nature so bountifully
opens for our need. I am not in favor of " game
laws," passed for the most part in the interest of
the few and the rich, to the deprivation of the
poor and the many, but I would that fine and
imprisonment both might be the punishment of
him who, in defiance of every liumane instinct
and reverential feeling, out of mere love for
"sport," as some are pleased to call it, directs a
WHAT IT COSTS. 21
ball or hooks a fish when no necessity demands
it. Such ruthless destruction of life is slaughter, —
coarse, cruel, unjustifiable butchery. Palliate it
who may, practise it who can, it is just that and
nothing short. To sum up what I have thus far
written, I say to all brother sportsmen, that, all
things considered, the sporting, both with rifle and
rod, in the North Woods is good, — good enough
to satisfy any reasonable desire. In this, please
reme'mber that I refer to the wilderness proper,
and not to the lumbered and inhabited and there-
fore over-hunted borders of it. I have known
parties to take board at North Elba, or Malone, or
Luzerne, and yet insist that they " had been into
the Adirondacks."
WHAT IT COSTS.
This I know to some is a matter of no interest
at all, but to others, among whom, unfortunately,
the \vriter must number himself, it is a matter
of vital importance. The committee on "ways
and means " in our " house " is the most laborious
of all, and the six years a little woman has held
the chairmanship of it has made her exceedingly
cautious and conservative. Some very interest-
ing debates occur before this committee, and no
demur on the part of the defeated party, as I have
22 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
often found, can change the unalterable decision.
What is true in the case of the writer is largely
true in respect to the majority of the profession
to which he belongs. Yet it is in the ministry
that you find the very men who would be the
most benefited by this trip. Whether they should
go as sportsmen or tourists, or in both capacities, a
visit to the North Woods could not fail of giving
them precisely such a change as is most desirable,
and needed by them. In the wilderness they
would find that perfect relaxation which all jaded
minds require. In its vast solitude is a total
absence of sights and sounds and duties, which
keep the clergyman's brain and heart strung up,
the long year through, to an intense, unnatural,
and often fatal tension. There, from a thousand
sources of invigoration, flow into the exhausted
mind and enfeebled body cuiTents of strength and
life. There sleep woos you as the shadows deepen
along the lake, and retains you in its gentle em-
brace until frightened away by the guide's merry
call to breakfast. You would be astonished to
learn, if I felt disposed to tell you, how many con-
secutive hours a certain minister sleeps during
the first week of his annual visit to the woods !
Ah me, the nights I have passed in the woods !
How they haunt me with their sweet, suggestive
memories of silence and repose ! How harshly the
steel-sliod hoofs smite against the flinty pavement
WHAT IT COSTS. 23
beneath my window, and clash with rude inter-
ruptions upon my ear as I sit recalling the tran-
quil hours I have spent beneath the trees ! AVliat
restful slumber was mine ; and not less gently
than the close of day itself did it fall upon me,
as I stretched myself upon my bed of balsam-
boughs, with Rover at my side, not twenty feet
from the shore where the ripples were playing
coyly with the sand, and lulled by the low mono-
tone* of the pines, whose branches were my only
shelter from the dew which gathered like gems
upon their spear-like stems, sank, as a falling star
fades from sight, into forgetfulness. And then the
waking ! The air fresh with the aroma of tlie
wilderness. The morning blowing its perfumed
breezes into your face. The drip, drip of the
odorous gum in the branches overhead, and the
colors of russet, of orange, and of gold streaking
the eastern sky. After three or four nights of
such slumber, the sleeper realizes the force and
beauty of the great poet's apostrophe, —
" Sleep, tliat knits up the ravelled sleave of care,
The death of each day's life, sore labor's bath,
Balm of hurt minds, great nature's second course.
Chief nourisher in life's feast."
If every church would make up a purse, and
pack its worn and weary pastor off to the
North Woods for a four weeks' jaunt, in the
hot months of July and August, it would do a
24 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
very sensible as well as pleasant act. For when
the good dominie came back swarth and tough
as an Indian, elasticity in his step, fire in his eye,
depth and clearness in his reinvigorated voice,
would n't there be some preaching ! And what
texts he would have from which to talk to the
little folks in the Sabbath school ! How their
bright eyes would open and enlarge as he narrated
his adventures, and told them how the good
Father feeds the fish that swim, and clothes the
mink and beaver with their warm and sheeny fur.
The preacher sees God in the original there, and
often translates him better from his unwritten
works than from his written vi^ord. He will get
more instructive spiritual material from such
a trip than from all the "Sabbath-school festi-
vals " and " pastoral tea-parties " w^ith which the
poor, smiling creature was ever tormented. It is
astonishing how much a loving, spiritually-minded
people can bore their minister. If I had a spite
against any clerical lirother, and felt wicked
enough to indulge it, I would get his Sabbath-
school superintendent, a female city missionary,
and several " local visitors," with an agent of some
Western coUege thrown in for variety, and set
them all on to him !
" But how much does it cost to take such a
trip ? " I hear some good deacon inquire ; " perhap.*
we may feel disposed to take your advice."
WHAT IT COSTS. 25
Well, I will tell you ; and I shall make a
liberal estimate, for I do not think it hurts a
minister to travel in comfortable style any more
than it does ]Mr. Farewell and Brother Have-
enough. And if he shall chance to find a ten-
dollar greenback in his ^'est-pocket after he has
reached home it will not come amiss, I warrant
you.
I estimate the cost thus : —
Gflide-hire, $2.50 per day; board for self and
guide while in the woods, $ 2.00 each per week ;
miscellanies (here is where the ten-dollar green-
backs come in), $ 25.00.
If he feels disposed to take a companion, he can
do so (many go in couples), and thereby divide
the cost of guide-hire, making it only $ 1.25
per day. But I would not advise one to do this,
especially if his expenses are paid. Fifty dollars
will pay one's travelling expenses both ways,
from Boston to the Lower Saranac Lake, where
you can meet your guide. From New York the
expense is about the same. It is safe to say that
one hundred and twenty-five dollars will pay all
the expenses of a trip of a month's duration in the
wilderness. I know of no other excursion in
which such a small sum of money wall return
such per cent in health, pleasure, and profit.
26 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
OUTFIT.
There is no one rule by which to he governed
in this respect. Personal tastes and means con-
trol one in this matter. Generally speaking, outfits
are too elaborate and cumbersome. Some men go
into the woods as if they were to pass the winter
within the polar circle, supplied wdth fur caps,
half a dozen pair of gloves, heavy overcoat, three
or four thick blankets, and any amount of use-
less impedimenta. Dry-goods clerks and students
seem to affect this style the most. I remember run-
ning against a pair of huge alligator-leather boots,
leaning against a tree, one day when crossing the
" Carry " from Forked Lake around the rapids,
and upon examination discovered a young under-
graduate of a college not a thousand miles from
Boston inside of them. It was about the middle
of August, and the thermometer stood at 90°
Fahrenheit. Some half a mile farther on we met
the guide sweating and swearing under a pack of
blankets, rubber suits, and the like, heavy enough
to frighten a tramping Jew-pedler ; and he declared
that " that confounded Boston fool had brought in
a hoat-load of clothes" which we found to be nigh
to the truth when we reached the end of the
" carry," where the canoe was. Now I wish that
every reader Avho may visit the Adirondacks,
male or female, would remember that a good-
OUTFIT. 27
sized valise or carpet-bag will hold all the clothes
any one person needs for a two months' trip in the
wilderness, beyond what he wears in. Be sure
to wear and take in nothing but woollen and
flannel. The air at night is often quite cool, even
in midsummer, and one must dress warmly. The
following list comprises the " essentials " : —
Complete undersuit of woollen or flannel, with a
" change."
Stout pantaloons, vest, and coat.
Felt hat.
Two pairs of stockings.
Pair of common winter boots and camp shoes.
Eubber blanket or coat.
One pair pliable buckskin gloves, with chamois-
?kin gauntlets tied or buttoned at the elbow.
Hunting-knife, belt, and a pint tin cup.
To these are to be added a pair of warm woollen
blankets, uncut, and a few articles of luxury, such
as towel, soap, etc. The above is a good service'
able outfit, and, with the exception of the blan-
kets, can readily be packed in a carpet-bag, which
is easily stowed in the boat and carried over the
" portages." In this connection, it should be re-
membered that the Adirondack boats, while being
models of lightness and speed, are small, and will
not bear overloading. On the average they are
some fifteen feet long, three feet wide at the mid-
dle, sharp at both ends, some ten inches deep.
28 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
and weigli from sixty to ninety pounds. Small
and light as these boats are, they will sustain
three men and all they really need in the way of
baggage, but it is essential, as the reader can see,
that no unuecessaiy freight be taken along by a
party. Nothing is better calculated to make a
guide cross and sour than an over-supply of per-
sonal baggage, and I advise all who attempt the
trip to confine themselves very nearly to the
above list. They will find that it is abundant.
For sporting outfit, this will suffice : —
One rifle and necessary ammunition.
One light, single-handed fly-rod, with " flies."
For rifles I prefer the " Ballard " or " Maynard "
Among breech-loaders. No shot-guns should be
taken. They are a nuisance and a pest.
In respect to " flies," do not overload your
book. Tliis is a good assortment : —
Hackles, black, red, and brown, six each.
Avoid small hooks and imported " French flies."
Let the " flies " be made on hooks from Nos. 3
to 1, Limerick size.
All " fancy flies " discard. They are good for
nothing generally, unless it be to show to your
lady friends. In addition to the " Hackles,"
Canada fly (6), — an excellent fly.
Green drake (6).
Red ibis (6).
Small salmon flies (6), — best of all.
OUTFIT. 29
If ill the fall of the year, take
English blue-jay (6).
Gray drake (6), — good.
Last, but not least, a large, stoutly woven land-
ing-net.
This is enough. I know that what I say touch^
iiig the salmon flies will astonish some, but I do
not hesitate to assert that with two dozen small-'
sized salmcn flies I should feel myself well pro-
vided for a six weeks' sojourn in the wilderness
Of course you can add to the above list many
serviceable flies ; my own book is stocked with a
dozen dozens of all sizes and colors, but the above
is a good practical outfit, and all one really needs.
If you are unaccustomed to "fly fishing," and
prefer to " grub it " with ground bait (and good
sport can be had witli l)ait fishing too), get two or
three dozens short-shanked, good-sized hooks, hand
tied to strong cream-coYoxedi snells, and you are
well provided. If you can find worms, they make
the best bait ; if not, cut out a strip from a chub,
and, loading your line with shot, yank it along-
through the water some foot or more under the sur-
face, as Avhen fishing for pickerel. I have had trout
many times rise and take such a bait, even when
sldttcrcd along on the top of the water. To every
fly-fisher my advice is, be sure and take plenty of
casting-lines. Have some six, others nine feet
lonif There are lines made out of " sea snell."
30 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
These are the best. Never select a bright, glisten-
ing gut. Always search for the creamy looking
ones. Tlie entire outfit need not cost (rod ex-
cepted) over ten dollars, and for all practical
purposes is as good as one costing a hundred.
WHERE TO BUY TACKLE.
In N e w York, go to Conroy, Bissett, & Malleson ,
Fulton Street. This house is noted for its rods
No better single-handed fly-rod can be had than
you can obtain at Conroy's. A rod of three pieces,
twelve feet long, and weighing from nine to
twelve ounces, is my favorite. A fashion has
sprung up to fasten the reel on close to the butt,
rfo that when casting you must needs grip the rod
above the reel. This is a great error in construc-
tion. Never buy one thus made. The reel should
be c'ood eiQ-ht inches from the butt, and thus
leave plenty of hand-room below it. At Con-
roy's you can obtain such a rod, brass mounted,
for some fifteen dollars ; in German-silver mount-
ings, for seventeen. At other houses, for the very
same or an inferior article I have been charged
from twenty to twenty -five dollars. The first rod
I ever bought at Conroy's, some six years ago,
was a brass-mounted one, such as described above,
which I used constantly for four years, but which
I saw, on an e\'ii day, go into four pieces, in a
WHERE TO BUY TACKLE. 31
narrow creek, w^hen I gave the butt to two large
fish in full bolt for a snarl of tamarack-roots.
Many a time have I seen that rod doubled up
until the quivering tip lay over the reel. I paid
fourteen dollars and fifty cents for it. I would
like to pay three times that sum for another like
it. If you want a rod that you can rely on, go
to Conroy's in Fulton Street and buy one of his
single-handed fly-rods.
If*in Boston, William Eead and Son's, No. 13
Faneuil Hall Square, is a good house to deal with.
Being less acquainted in Boston than in New York,
I cannot speak with such directness as I can con-
cerning Conroy's. But having looked over INIr.
Eead's stock, I am quite persuaded that you can
be as well served Avith rods by him as by any
house in the country, Conroy always excepted.
If I was buying in Boston, for my rod I should
go to Read's. In respect to price, I am inclined
to think tliat he sells the same class of rods cheaper
than the ISTew York house. I saw some rods at Mr.
Eead's the other day for twelve dollars, equal in all
respects, so far as I could see, (and I tested them
thoroughly,) to the rods for which Conroy charges
fifteen dollars. At the same time I examined
some split bamboo rods, price twenty-five dollars,
for which many dealers in fishing-tackle, in New
York, and perhaps some in Boston, would be likely
*o demand nearly twice that sum. Of course this
32 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
firm is too well known to the sporting world foi
me to mention that, for a thorough hnnting outfit,
you can do no better than to go to this house.
For flies I advise you to go to Bradford and
Anthony, 178 Washington Street. I am inclined to
think that this house, in quantity, style, variety,
and finish, excel even Conroy. I have looked
their assortment oxev carefully, and know not
where to find its equal. Wherever you buy,
never purchase an imported fly. The French
flies, especially, are most unreliable. Never put
one in your book. Select only such as are tied to
softj cream-colored snells. The same holds good in
respect to casting-lines or leaders. Beware of sncli
^s have a bright, glassy glitter about them. They
will fail you on your best fish, and you will lose
liies, fish, and temper together. For your lines I
suggest, first, last, and always, braided silk. Be-
ware of hair and silk lines. Formerly I had a
great passion for fancy lines, but years of ex-
perience have caused me to settle down in favor
of the braided silk line as superior to every other.
GUIDES.
This is the most important of all considerations
to one about to visit the wilderness. An ignorant,
lazy, low-bred guide is a nuisance in camp and
useless everywhere else. A skilful, active, well-
GUIDES. 33
mannered guide, on the other hand, is «, joy and
consolation, a source of constant pleasure to the
whole party. With an ignorant guide you will
starve ; with a lazy one you will lose your temper;
M'ith a low-bred fellow you can have no comfort.
Fortunate in the selection of your guide, you will
be fortunate in everything you undertake clean
through the trip. A good guide, like a good wife,
is indispensable to one's success, pleasure, and
peace. * If I were to classify such guides as are
nuisances, I should place at the head of the list
the " witty guide." He is forever talking. He
inundates the camp with gab. If you chance to
have company, he is continually thrusting himself
impertinently forward. He is possessed from head
to foot with the idea that he is smart. He can
never open his mouth unless it is to air his opin-
ions or perpetrate some stale joke. He is always
vulgar, not seldom profane. Avoid him as you
would the plague.
Next in order comes the " talkative guide."
The old Indian maxim, " Much talk, no hunt," I
have found literally verified. A true hunter talks
little. The habit of his skill is silence. In camp
or atloat he is low-voiced and reticent. I have
met but one exception to this rule. I wiU not
name him, lest it give pain. He is a good hunter
and a capital guide, in spite of his evil tendency
to gab. This tendency is vicious in many ways.
3* c
34 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
It is closely allied with that other vice, — bragging.
Such a guide in a large party is apt to breed
dispute and difference. He is very liable to give
the gentleman who employs him the impression
that others in the party are striving to " get ahead
of him." Moreover, he is always interrupting you
when you do not want to be interrupted. Silence,
which is a luxury found only in the wilderness,
flees a*' his approach. Beware of the talkative
guide.
The next in order, and the last I shall men-
tion, is the "lazy guide." Such a guide is the
most vexatious creature you can have around.
Nothing short of actual experience with one can
give you an adequate impression. Now, a guide's
duties, while not absolutely laborious, are neverthe-
less multiform. To discharge them well, a man
should have a brisk, cheerful temperament and a
certain pride in his calling. He should be quick,
inventive, and energetic. With these qualities
even ordinarily developed, a man makes a good
guide ; without them he is intolerable. A lazy
guide is usually in appearance fleshy, lymphatic,
dirty, and often well advanced in years. As a
rule, avoid an old guide as you would an old horse.
His few years' extra experience, compared to a
younger man, cannot make good the decline of his
powers and the loss of his ambition. A young,
acti^'e fellow of thirty, with his reputation to make,
GUIDES. 35
is wortK two who are fifty and egotistical. The
worst sight I ever saw in the woods, the exhibi-
tion which stirred me most, was the spectacle of a
fat, lazy lout of a guide lying on his stomach, read-
ing a dime novel, Mdiile tlie gentleman Avho hired
him was building " smudges." If he had been
my guide, I would have smudged him ! The " wit-
ty," " talkative," and " lazy guide " are the three
hindrances to a party's happiness. If you find
yourself or party burdened with either species,
admonish Icindly but firmly ; and if this mild appli-
cation will not suffice, turn him mercilessly adrift,
and post him hy name on your way out, at every
camp and hotel, as an imposition and a pest.
Make an example of one or two, and the rest would
take the liint. Every respectable and wortliy
guide will tliank you for it, and your conscience
will have peace as over a duty fulfilled.
For the most part the " independent guides "
are models of skill, energy, and faithfulness. I
say "independent," to distinguisli the class so
called from another class yclept " liotel guides."
The difference between the two classes is this :
the " hotel guides " are paid so much per month
by the hotel-keepers, and by them furnished to
their boarders and such as come unprovided. Tliis
system is faulty in many respects. The " hotel
guide " is not responsible to the party for its suc-
cess, and therefore is not quickened to make his
36 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
best endeavor. He has no reputation to make, af?
has the independent guide, for his service is se-
cured to him for the season, by virtue of his con-
nection witli the hotel. Furthermore, the " hotel
guide " is often unemployed for weeks if the sea-
son is dull ; and, lianging around a frontier hotel
in daily proximity to the bar, is very liable to be-
get that greatest of all ^•ices in a guide, — drunken-
ness. If, on the other hand, the season is a crowded
one, the proprietor finds it difficult to secure
guides enough for his guests, and so must needs
content himself with men totally unfit for the
service. Thus it often happens that a party taking
their guides at the hands of the landlord finds,
when too late, that out of half a dozen guides,
only one is capable, M-hile the others are mere
make-shifts, the good guide being sent along as a
teacher and " boss " of the raw hands. I do not
say that there are no good guides among those
known as hotel guides, for there are ; but as a elass
they are far inferior in character, skill, and habits
to the others.
The independent guides, so called, are, as a
whole, a capalile and noble class of men. They
know their calling thoroughly, and can be relied
on. They have no other indorsement than such
as the parties to which they act as guides give them ;
and as their chances of subsequent service depend
upon their present success, they are stimulated to
GUIDES. 37
the litmost to excel. Between these and the hotel
guides there exists a rivalry, and I might employ
a stronger term. The independent guide feels,
and is not slow to assert, his superiority. He is
justified in doing it. The system of hotel guiding
is wrong in theory and pernicious in practice.
Every guide should be immediately responsible to
the party hiring him. His chances of future em-
ployment should depend upon his present success.
This is the only natural, simple, and equitable
method. It is beneficial to both j)ai'ties. The
sportsman is well served ; and the guide, if he is
faithful, secures constant employment from season
to season. Many of the best guides are engaged
a year in advance.
I cannot let this opportunity pass unimproved
of testifying to the capacity, skill, and faithfulness
of a great majority of the guides through the
Adirondack region. With many I am personally
acquainted, and rejoice to number them among my
friends. I have seen them under every circum-
stance of exposure and trial, of feasting and hun-
ger, of health and sickness, and a more honest,
cheerful, and patient class of men cannot be found
the world over. Born and bred, as many of them
were, in this wilderness, skilled in all the lore of
woodcraft, handy with the rod, superb at the pad-
dle, modest in demeanor and si^eech, honest to a
proverb, they deserve and receive the admiration
38 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
of all who make their acquaintance. Bronzed
and liardy, fearless of danger, eager to please, un-
contaminated with the vicious habits of civilized
life, they are not unworthy of the magnificent sur-
roundings amid which they dwell. Among them
an oath is never heard, unless in moments of
intense excitement. Vulgarity of speech is abso-
lutely unknown, and theft a matter of horror and
surprise. Measured by our social and intellectual
facilities, their lot is lowly and uninviting, and yet
to them there is a charm and fascination in it.
Under the base of these overhanging mountains
they were born. Upon the waters of these se-
cluded lakes they have sported from earliest boy-
hood. The wilderness has unfolded to them its
mysteries, and made them wise with a wisdom no-
where written in books. This wilderness is their
home. Here they were born, here have they lived,
and here it is that they expect to die. Their
graves will be made under the pines where in
childhood they played, and the sounds of wind
and wave which lulled them to sleep when boys
will swell the seKsame cadences in requiem over
their graves. When they have passed away, tradi-
tion w^ill prolong their virtues and their fame.
I am often in reception of letters from gentle-
men who wish to visit the wilderness, inquiring
the names of guides to whom they can write for
the purpose of engaging their services. I have
GUIDES. 39
beeu prompted to publish tlie following list in
answer to such correspondence. I do not wish
any to understand that the list is perfect, contain-
ing the names of all the good guides, for it does
not. It contains the names of such as, through
personal acquaintance or reliable information, I
know to be worthy of patronage. Others, not
mentioned here, there may be equally reliable. I
make no invidious comparison in this selection. I
seek only to give such as may be about to visit
the region tlie names of certain guides to whom
they can ^vrite with confidence, and whom, if they
secure, they may deem themselves fortunate.
Long Lake Guidc^i, or those loliose Post-0 fflce Address
is LojKj Lake, Hamilton County, N. Y.
John E. Plumbley, John Eobinson,
Jerry Plumbley, Amos Eobinson,
Amos Hough, Michael Sabatis and Sons,
Henry »Stanton, Alonzo AVood,
Isaac Eobinson, Eeuben Gary.
Lovjcr Saranac Guides.
Stephen Martin, Duglass Dunning,
James McClellan, George Eing,
Lute Evans, Daniel L. ]Moody,
Harvey Moody, Mark Clough,
John King, Eeuben Eeynolds,
40 adventurp:s in the wilderness.
George Sweeny, Alonzo Dudley,
William Eing, Daniel Moody.
Post-office address,
Lower Saranac, FrcmJdin County, N. Y.
St. Regis Guides.
I can recall the names of only three.
Setli Warner, Stephen Turner,
DaAdd Sweeny.
Post-office address,
St. Regis, FmnJdin County, N. Y.
Concerning the guides in the " Brown Tract,"
and on the western side of the wilderness, around
the Potsdam region, I know nothing. The Ar-
nolds, I understand, of the Brown Tract district,
owiniif to an unfortunate occurrence last fall, have
all deserted that section of the country. Tlie
house their father kept is now unoccupied, and
whether it will be oj^ened this spring I know not.
HOW TO GET TO THE WILDERNESS.
There are several routes which you can take in
an excursion to the North Woods, but only one or
two which are easy and practicable for a party
composed both of ladies and gentlemen. If you
wish to enter at the southern end of the wilder-
HOW TO GET THERE. 41
uess, and do your sporting in the Brown Tract
region, go to Albany and thence to Booneville, from
which place you can get transported on horseljack
to the first of the chain of lakes known as the
" Eight Lakes." Here was formerly a hotel, known
as " Arnold's." The Arnold family have now left,
and I know^ not if the house is kept open. This
entrance is not easy for ladies, nor is the region
into which it brings you at all noted for the beauty
of its* scenery. Still many sportsmen go in this
way, and to such a class it is a feasible route. You
can also "go in" via Lake George and ]\Iinerva to
Long Lake, if you choose. The distance is some
eighty miles by this route, the roads bad, and
the hotel accommodations poor. Long Lake is a
good starting-point for a party, as it is situated
midway of the forest, the centre of magnificent
scenery, and the home of many guides. All it
needs to make this route one of the very best is,
that the roads should be improved, and a good line
of coaches established. But as it now is, it is
neither practicable nor entirely safe.
The best route by which to enter the wilderness
is the following. It is easy and quick. The ac-
commodations are excellent all the way through.
I do not know how I can give a true impression of
this route so briefly as by going, in imagination,
with the reader, from Boston to the Lower Saranac,
where I meet my guide. I leave Boston Monday
42 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
morning, we will say, at eight o'clock, on the Bos-
ton and Albany Eailroad. At East Albany we con-
nect with the Troy train ; at Troy, with the Sara-
toga train, which lands you at the steamboat dock
at Whitehall, Lake Champlain, at nine o'clock,
p. M. Going on board you sit down to a dinner,
abundant in quantity and well served ; after which
you retire to your state-room, or, if so inclined, roll
an arm-chair to the hurricane deck, and enjoy that
rarest of treats, a steamboat excursion on an inland
lake by moonlight. At 4.30 a. m. you are oppo-
site Burlington, Vt., and by the time you are
dressed the boat glides alongside of the dock at
Port Kent, on the New York side of the lake.
You enter a coach which stands in waiting, and,
after a ride of six miles in the cool morning air,
you alight at the Ausable House, Keeseville. Here
you array yourself for the woods, and, eating a
hearty breakfast, yovi seat yourself in the coach at
7 A. M., the whip cracks, the horses spring, and you
are off' on a fifty-six mile ride over a plank road,
which brings you, at 5 P. M., to ]\Iartin's, on the
Lower Saranac, where your guide, with his narrow
shell drawn up upon the beach, stands waiting you.
This is the shortest, easiest, and, beyond all odds,
the best route to the Adirondacks. You leave
Boston or New York Monday at 8 A. IM., and reach
your guide Tuesday at 5 p. m. So perfect are the
connections on this route, that, ha^ing engaged
HOW TO GET THERE. 43
"John " to meet me a year from a certain day, at
5 p. M., on the Lower Saranac, I have rolled up to
"Martin's" and jumped from the coach as the
faithful fellow, equally " on time," was in the act
of pulling his narrow boat up the beach. It is not
only easy and quick, but the cheapest route also,
and takes you through some of the sublimest
scenery in the world. At Keeseville, if you wish,
you can turn off to the left toward North Elba,
and visit that historic grave in which the martyr of
the nineteenth century sleeps, with a boulder of
native granite for his tombstone, and the cloud-
covered peaks of Whiteface and Marcy to the
north and south, towering five thousand feet above
his head. By all means stop here a day. It will
better you to stand a few moments over John
Brown's grave, to enter the house he built, to see
the fields he and his heroic boys cleared, the
fences they erected and others standing incomplete
as they left them when they started for Harper's
Ferry. What memories, if you are an American,
will throng into your head as you stand beside
that mound and traverse those fields ! You will
continue your journey a better man or purer
woman from even so brief a visit to the grave of
one whose name is and will ever be a synonyme of
liberty and justice throughout the world. If you
are mere tourists, and intend going no farther west-
ward than North Elba, stop at Westport, above
44 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
Crown Point, and take stage to your destination.
At a Mr. Helmer's (I think that is tlie name) you
will find all necessary accommodation. If you are
going into the wilderness, it is better to engage
your transportation from Keeseville in advance, in
order to prevent delay. To this end you can ad-
dress the proprietor of the Ausable House, Keese-
ville, or W. r. Martin, keeper of " Martin's," as it is
familiarly known to sportsmen at the Lower Sara-
nac. This is the direct route also to reach Pau!
Smith's, at the St. Eegis Lake. Another route, —
a new one just opened, which I have never tried, —
is via Plattsburgh, by which you can go by rail t^-
a point within thirty miles of " Martin's." Addres«.
W. P. Martin for particulars.
HOTELS.
This subject I shall dismiss with a brief allusion.
Paul Smith, or " Pol," as he is more commonly
known among the guides, is proprietor of the St.
Pegis House. This is the St. James of the wilder-
ness. Here Saratoga trunks and Saratoga belles are
known. Here they have civilized " hops," and
that modern jirolongation of the ancient w^ar- whoop
modified and improved, called " operatic singing,"
in the parlors. In spite of all this, it is a capital
house, with a good reputation, well deserved
HOTELS. 45
" Bartlett's " is situated on the carry between
Round Lake and the Upper Saranac. This house
is well kept. The rooms are neatly furnished, the
service at the tables slightly suggestive of " style."
The proprietor is a brisk, business-like-looking man,
pleasant and accommodating. I have never seen
or heard aught to his discredit, and much in his
praise. Many gentlemen leave their wives and
children here while they are in the wilderness
sporting. This house is conveniently located, and
within easy reach of excellent liunting-ground. I
lieartily reconmiend it to pviblic patronage.
"Mother Johnson's." — This is a " half-way house."
It is at the lower end of the carry, below Long Lake.
Never pass it without dropping in. Here it is
that you find such pancakes as are rarely met with.
Here, in a log-house, hospitality can be found such
as might shame many a city mansion. Never
shall I forget the meal that John and I ate one
night at that pine table. We broke camp at 8
A. M., and reached Mother Johnson's at 11.45 P. M.,
having eaten nothing but a hasty lunch on the
way. Stumbling up to the door amid a chorus of
noises, such as only a kennel of hounds can send
forth, we aroused the venerable couple, and at 1
A. M. sat dow^n to a meal whose quantity and qual-
ity are worthy of tradition. Now, most house-
keepers would have grumbled at being summoned
to entertain travellers at such an unseasonable
46 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
hour. Not so with Mother Johnson. Bless har
soul, how her fat, good-natured face glowed with
delight as she saw us empty those dishes ! How
her countenance shone and sides shook with lauoh-
ter as she passed the smoking, russet-colored cakea
from her griddle to our only half-emptied plates.
For some time it was a close race, and victory
trembled in the balance ; but at last John and I
surrendered, and, dropping our knives and forks, and
shoving back our chairs, we cried, in the language
of another on the eve of a direr conflict, " Hold,
enough ! " and the good old lady, still happy and
radiant, laid down her ladle and retired from her
benevolent labor to her slumbers. Never go by
Mother Johnson's without tasting her pancakes,
and, when you leave, leave with her an extra dollar.
" Uncle Fahners" is at Long Lake, and com-
mands a view of lake and mountain scenery
rarely surpassed. There are many houses open to
guests in the wilderness more ostentatious ; but for
downright solid comfort commend me to " Uncle
Palmer's." The table i^ well supplied ; the cuisine
is excellent ; the beds neat and clean ; the location
central. Mr. Palmer is one of the most honest,
genial, and accommodating men whom I have
ever met. His wife is active, pleasant, and moth-
erly. Both are full of the spirit of true kindness,
and sympathetic in all their words and acts. You
may be a total stranger, but no sooner are you
HOTELS. 47
fairly inside the house than you feel yourself per-
fectly at liomc. In this' neighborhood live John
Plumbley, and his brother Jerry, Amos Hough,
Henry Stanton, Isaac Eobinson and boys, Michael
Sabatis and sons, and many others of the very
best guides in the wilderness. Sabatis keeps a
hotel on the shore of the lake, and at his house
many sportsmen resort. I have heard it well
spoken of, but cannot speak from experience, as I
never had the pleasure of stopping over there.
On the whole, I do not hesitate to say that Long
Lake is, in my opinion, the best rendezvous of the
wilderness, and Uncle Palmer's long table the
very best spot to find yourself when hungry and
tired.
" Martin' s!' — This is the last house of which
I shall speak. It is located on Lower Saranac, at
the terminus of the stage route from Keeseville. It
is, therefore, the most convenient point at which to
meet your guides. Its appointments are thorough
and complete. Martin is one of the few men in
the world who seem to know how "to keep a
hotel." At his house you can easily and cheaply
obtain your entire outfit for a trip of any length.
Here it is that the celebrated Long Lake guides
with their unrivalled boats, principally resort.
Here, too, many of the Saranac guides, some of
them surpassed by none, make their head-quarters.
Mr. ]\Iartin, as a host, is good-natured and gen-
48 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
tlemanly. His table is abundantly provided,
not only with the necessaries, but also with
many of the luxuries, of diet. Tlie charges are
moderate, and the accommodations for families, as
well as sporting parties, in every respect ample.
" Martin's " is a favorite resort to all who have ever
once visited it, and stands deservedly high in public
estimation.
WHEN TO VISIT THE WILDERNESS.
The purpose for which you go, and the character
of the sporting you desire, should decide this
point. If you desire river fishing for spotted
trout, and trolling for the lake trout, some of which
grow to weigh from tw^enty to thirty pounds, yon
should go in during the month of May or June.
The objection to this time lies in the fact that the
wilderness is wet and cold at this season of the
year, when the snow is barely melted, the portages
muddy and unpleasant, and the "black flies" in
multitudinous numbers.
These objections, to my mind, are msurmounta-
ble. No ladies should go into the wilderness
sooner than the middle of June. If you want to
see autumnal scenery, unsurpassed by any the
world over, and hear the " mvisic of the hounds "
in full cry after that noblest of all game for dogs,
WHEN TO VISIT THE WILDERNESS. 49
the antlered buck in swift career, go in during the
month of September, and remain until snow and
tlie cold drive you out.
My favorite season is in midsummer. I go in
early in July, and remain for about two months.
Late in June or early in July the "black fly"
disappears. The wilderness is dry, and the climate
is delightful. The thermometer stands at about
se^'enty-five or eighty degrees. The portages are
in good condition, the water not liigh, the lily and
marsh flowers in bloom. Tlie fishing is excellent.
The trout have left the rapids and the upper por-
tions of the streams, and gathered in great num-
bers at the " spring-holes," the location of which
your guide is supposed to know, if not, he can
easily, if he understands his business, ascertain.
No better fishing can be found than spring-hole
fishing, which you will find carefully described in
the chapter entitled " The Nameless Creek." As
for hunting, the sport is excellent during these two
months. July is the best month for Jack or night
shooting, — the most exciting of all shooting. The
bucks by this time are in good condition, and not
over-shy. These are the only months when you
have shore-shooting, as it is called ; that is, when
you see deer feeding in broad daylight, and take
them from the open Ijoat at a good, easy range, —
say from twenty to thirty rods. This is what I
call good, honest sport, and not slaughter, as when
!^ D
50 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the docf drives a deer into the lake, and, rowing
up beside the poor frightened and struggling thing,
the guide holds him by the tail while you blow
his brains out ! Bah ! I should be ashamed to
ever look along the sights of a rifle again if I had
ever disgraced myself with any such " sporting " (!)
as that ! At this time of the year rain-storms are
unknown in this region, and the thunder-showers
which occur are a source of pleasure, and not of
inconvenience, to a camp. No more sublime sight
can the eye behold than is presented to it when
such a shower passes over these mountains.
HEALTHFULNESS OF CAMP LIFE.
I am often asked if ladies would not " catch cold "
in the woods, and if the physical exertion which
one must put forth is not such as to forbid that
any but robust people should undertake the trip.
To this I reply that I believe it to be a physical
imj^ossibility for one, however fragile or delicate,
to " catch cold " in this wilderness. Remember
that you are here in a mountainous region, where
dampness and miasma, such as prevail in lower
sections, are entirely unknown. Consider, too,
how genial and equable is the climate in the
summer months, and how pure and rarefied the
atmosphere. Eemember, also, that you breathe an
HEALTHFULNESS OF CAMP LIFE. 51
air odorous with the smell of piue and cedar and
balsam, and absolutely free from the least taint of
impurity ; and when you take all this into account,
you will see how very dissimilar are the conditions
and surroundmgs of life in the woods to life in the
city or village. Acquainted as I am with, many
ladies, some of them accustomed to every luxury,
and of delicate health, who have " camped out " in
this wilderness, I have yet to meet with a single
one who ever " caught cold," or experienced any
other inconvenience to the bodily health in the
woods.
As to the " physical exertion," there is no such
exertion known here. It is the laziest of all
imaginable places, if you incline to indolence.
Tramping is unknow^n in this region. Wlierever
you wish to go your guide paddles you. Your
hunting, fishing, sight-seeing, are all done from the
boat. Going in or coming out you cross the neces-
sary carries, which, for the most part, are short and
good walking, and you can take your own time foi:
it. In this I refer, of course, to the most frequent-
ed parts of the wilderness, and not to the portions
seldom visited and more difficult of access. Thero
are sections which I have visited by dragging my
cedar shell behind me up narrow creeks and through
tamarack swamps, middle deep in mud and water ;
but no guide w^ould think of taking a party, unless
urged by the party itself, into any such region ; and,
52 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
ordinarily speaking, there is no need of exertion
whicli a child of five summers could not safely put
forth, from one end to the other of a trip.
WHAT SECTIONS TO VISIT.
If you go in by way of the Saranacs, do not
camp down in that section as some do, but pass
over Indian Carry, through the Spectacle Lakes and
Eamshorn Creek (called by some Stony Creek),
into the Eacquette Eiver. Then turn up or down
as you please. If you desire to see some of tlie
finest scenery imaginable, pass up the Eacquette to
Long Lake, and, when some two miles up the lake,
turn your face toward the north, and you Avill be-
hold what is worth the entire journey to see.
Then go on, and do not camp until you do so on the
southern or w^estern shore of Eacquette Lake. Here
you wiU find good sporting and scenery unsur-
passed. Build here your central camp, and, as soon
as you are established, take your boat and go over
to the " Wood's Place," and from the knoll on
which the house stands you will gaze upon one of
the finest water views in the world. Then visit
Terrace Lodge, on an island to the front and left of
you, and, climbing up the ledge, you will either find
the wTiter there to welcome you, or see where he
and one better than he have passed many delight-
WHAT SECTIOxNS TO VISTf. 53
ful hours. Only beware how you appropriate it,
for we have a sort of life-lease on that camp-
ground, and may appear to claim possession when
you least expect us. Then paddle to Beaver Bay,
and find that point in it from which you can
arouse a whole family of sleeping echoes along
the western ridge and the heavy woods opposite.
Then go to Constable Point, and quench your thirst
at the coolest, sweetest spring of pure water from
which you ever drank. Go next to the southern
part of the lake, so hidden behind the islands tliat
you wovdd never suspect such a lovely sheet of
water lay beyond, with its two beautiful reaches of
softly shining sand, one white as silver, the other
yellow as gold ; and in the waters which lave the
golden, find the best bathing in the whole wilder-
ness. Do not leave this region until you have
made an excursion to that Lake George in minia-
ture. Blue Mountain Lake, and fill your mind
with an im^^ression which will remain in memo-
ry as one of the sweet and never-to-be-forgotten
recollections of life. When you have retraced
your progress up, and reached the moutli of Eams-
liorn Creek, kce[) on down the Bacquette until you
have swung round to Big Tupper Lake and lunched
on the sloping ledge over which the outlet of
Bound Lake and Little Tupper pours its full tide in
thunder and foam ; and, if it be not too late in the
season, and you know how to use the rod, you will
54 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
raise, amid the froth and eddies of the falls, some
of the largest, gamiest, brightest-tinted trout tliat
ever gladdened a sportsman's eye. Then, if you are
robust and full of pluck, force your way over the
four-mile carry, between the Falls and Eound Lake,
and, hurrying on through its sluggish waters, do
not pause until you enter the narrow, secluded
stretch of Little Tupper. But the moment you
enter stop, joint your rod, and noose on your
strongest leader and largest flies, for you will
find right there, at the entrance of Bog Creek,
trout that will put your skill and tackle to the
severest test. When I passed through that region
last, I left, as John expressed it, "more than five
boat-load of fish " in that deep, sluggish pool.
Honest John Plumbley, the prince of guides, patient
as a hound, and as faithful, — a man who knows the
wilderness as a farmer knows his fields, whose in-
stinct is never at lault, whose temper is never ruf-
fled, wdiose paddle is silent as falling snow, whose
eye is true along the sights, whose pancakes are
the wonder of the woods, — honest, patient, and
modest John Plumbley, may he live long beyond
the limit so few of us attain, and depart at last full
of peace as he will full of honors, God bless him !
As you pass out, visit the St. Eegis waters, by
the way of Big Wolf, and Eollin's Pond, and Long
Pine, and so circle dowii to " mine host " at Mar-
tin's. What a trip you will have had, what won-
BLACK FLIES. 55
ders seen, what rare experiences enjoyed ! How
many evenings will pass on " golden wings " at
home, as friends draw close their circle around the
glowing grate, and listen as you rehearse the story
of your adventures, — shoot over again your " first
buck," and land for the hundredth time your " big-
sest " trout I
BLACK FLIES.
I will speak of these and other nuisances before
I close, in order to state the exact truth in refer-
ence to a subject concerning which newspaper and
magazine ^\Titers have given the public an erro-
neous impression. The spirit of exaggeration, and
the necessity of " getting up a good article," have
contributed to the dissemination of " anecdotes "
and " experiences " which are the merest balderdash
imaginable. I am prompted, therefore, to make,
as we were accustomed to say in college, a " plain
statement of facts," that my readers may know
precisely how much inconvenience a tourist or
sportsman is subject to, from this source, among
the Adirondacks. The black fly, concerning which
so much of the horrible has been written, is a
small, dark-colored fly, about the size of a red ant.
Its bite is not severe, nor is it ordinarily poisonous.
There may be an occasional exception to this rule ;
no ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
but beside the bite of tlie mosquito it is compara-
tively mild and liarmless. This fly prevails during
the month of June and disappears early in July.
It also invariably retires at the setting of the
sun, and gives you no more trouble until late in
the morning. I regard it as one of the most harm-
less and least vexatious of the insect family. For
five years my wife and self have camped in the
■wilderness; we have traversed it near and far,
sleeping where the night found us, liut we ha-\-e
never been, to any extent wortli mentioning,
disturbed by its presence. The black fly, as pic-
tured by " our Adirondack correspondent," like the
Gorgon of old, is a myth, — a monster existing
only in men's feverish imaginations.
MOSQUITOES.
In some localities these are numerous, but with
care in the selection of your camp you will
not be very much troubled. A headland, or a
point which projects into a lake, over which the
wind sweeps, or, better still, an island, is excel-
lent ground for a camp, where mosquitoes "\^'ill
not embarrass you.
Gnats can also be avoided by the same care;
and, in my way of thinldng, they are much worse
than the black fly or mosquito.
MOSQUITOES. 57
Against all these insects you can find abundant
protection. The following precautions, which we
have adopted with complete success, I would recom-
mend, especially to such of my lady readers as con-
template a visit to this or any other inland region.
For the hands, take a pair of common buckskin
gloves and sew on at the wrists a gauntlet or
armlet of chamois-skin, reaching to the elbow,
and tigliihj huttoncd around. Do not leave any
opening, however small, at the \\T.ist, else the
gnats may creep up the arm. This gives per-
fect protection to the hand. For the face, take a
yard and a half of Swiss mull, and gather it with
an elastic band into the form of a sack or bag.
Have the elastic so as to slip over the head, which
when you have done, fix the elastic inside the
collar-band, and you can laugh defiance at the mos-
quitoes and gnats. "We, in addition to this, take in
a piece of verij fine muslin, some four yards square,
which, if threatened with gnats or flies, having first
thoroughly smoked the tent or lodge, we drop over
the front or doorway, and behind its protection sleep
undisturbed. To sportsmen, and indeed to all, I
suggest this also. Take in a bottle of sweet oil
and a vial of tar. These the guide will mix, and
with a small bottle of the compound in your pock-
et you can go and come night or day as you please.
All manner of insects abhor the smell of tar.
When, therefore, you have need to fish or hunt or
3*
58 ADVKNTUKKS IN THE WILDERNESS.
journey where they may be expected, pour out a
little into the palm of your hand and anoint your
face with it. To most persons the scent of tar is
not offensive, and tlie mixture washes off on the
first application of soap and water, leaving no trace
or taint. To reconcile my lady readers to it, I
may add, that it renders the skin soft and smooth
as an infant's.
I have mentioned these various protections, not
because we often resort to them, but simply from
a desire to furnish my readers ample knowledge
for every emergency. Last summer we were in
the wilderness nearly two months, but suffered
more in the first two weeks after our return, in a
city in Connecticut, than during our entire stay in
the woods. Care in the selection of your camp,
and the employment of the above-mentioned meth-
ods of protection, will obviate every difficulty and
make you as free from inconvenience as you would
be in the majority of New England villages.
LADIES' OUTFIT.
A lady at my elbow, recalling how valuable a
few suggestions would have been to her five years
ago in respect to what is most appropriate and
serviceable for a lady to wear in the wilderness,
inserts the following list : —
LADIES' OUTFIT. 59
A net of fine Swiss mull, made as we have pre-
viously described, as protection against mosqui-
toes, gnats, etc.
A pair of buckskin gloves, with armlets of cha-
mois-skin or thick drilling, sewed on at the wrist
of the glove and buttoned near the elbow so tightly
as to prevent the entrance of flies.
For the head, a soft felt hat, such as gentlemen
wear, rather broad in the brim. This is light and
cool for the head, and a good protection from sun
and rain.
A flannel change throughout.
Thick balmoral boots, with rubbers.
A pair of camp shoes, water-proof, warm and
roomy.
Short w^alking-dress, with Turkish draw^ers fas-
tened with a band tightly at the ankle.
Waterproof or rubber coat and cap.
A pair of Lisle-thread or kid gloves.
To this I add, as it occurs to me at this point,
that no party should go into the wilderness unpro-
vided with linen bandages, prepared lint, salve,
and whatever else iS needed in case of acci-
dent. You will not, probably, have occasion to
use them, but if any casualty should occur they
would be of the utmost service.
60 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
WILD ANIMALS.
I am often asked, especially by ladies, if it is
not dangerous to take such a trip, and if wild ani-
mals do not abound in the wilderness ; and I
know that many are deterred from making the
excursion because of their timidity. The only
animals concerning which the most timid could be
alarmed are the bear, wolf, and panther. The
latter is a very ugly neighbor indeed, and the
less you have to do with him the better. I am
tolerably familiar with wood life, and the sights
and sounds of such danger as one is liable to
meet in the wilderness ; and John and I have
slept more than once, calmly enougli, with our
rifles inside our blankets, not knowing when we
lay down what cry might awaken us ; but I should
not purposely put myself in the way of a panther,
unless I could run my eye along the sights of my
double rifle when the l)arrels were freshly charged.
In speaking of the panther, I do not, of course, al-
lude to the Canadian wild-cat, with which the igno-'
rant often confound the panther, but to the puma
itself, an animal which often measures twelve fee^
from tip to tip, and is the slyest, strongest, bloodiest
ranger of the woods. Now, fortunately, the pan-
ther is almost wholly unknown in this region. A
few still live among the loneliest defiles an4 darkest
WILD ANIMALS. 61
gorges of the Adirondack Mountaius, but they
never come down, unless in the depth of winter,
to the shores of the lakes to the west, or the banks
of the rivers. Many years have passed since one
has been seen by any of the guides. The region
traversed by parties is as free from them as the
State of Massachusetts.
Black bears abound in some localities, but
more timid, harmless creatures do not exist, all the
old stories to the contrary notwithstanding. In
temper and action toward men they resemble veiy
closely the woodchuck. Their first and only anx-
iety is to esca^ie man's presence. If you penetrate
far enough into the wilderness, you will occasional-
ly, at night, hear them nosing around your camp,
with liedgehogs and the like, but ever careful to keejD
out of your sight. A stick, piece of bark, or tin plate
shied in tlie direction of the noise, will scatter
them like cats. The same is true of wolves. They
are only too anxious to keep out of your sight and
hearing. Touch a match to an old stump, and in
two hours there will not be a wolf within ten miles
of 3f ou. I wish all to take the statement as in every
sense true, when I declare that there is absolutely
no danger, nor indeed the least approach to danger,
in camping in the wilderness. Many and many a
night has my wife, when John and I were off on a
hunt, slept soundly and without a thought of
danger, in the depths of the forest, lifty miles
62 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
from even a hunter's cabin. It is true that her
education in woodcraft is more extensive than
that of most ladies, and, for presence of mind,
quickness and skill with the ritie, many so-called
" crack shots " might well take lessons of her ; but
were this not true, I regard a camp, granted only
that it be so far in that men cannot reach it, as a
place of absolute security.
PROVISIONS.
All you need to carry in with you is
Coffee, Pepper,
Tea, Butter (this optional),
Sugar, Pork, and Condensed Milk.
Always take crushed sugar ; powdered sugar is
not easily picked up if the bag bursts and lets it
out among the pine-stems.
If you are a " high liver," and wish to take in
canned fruits and jellies, of course you can do so.
But these are luxuries which, if you are wise,
you will leave behind you.
BILL OF FARE.
I am often asked, " What do you have to egit up
there ? " In order to answer the very natural
«[uestion, and show the reader that I do not starve,
BILL OF FARE. 63
I will give my bill of fare as you can have
it served, if you will call at my camp on the
Eacci^uette next July. This is no " fancy sketch,"
but a bona fide list which I have " gone through "
more than once, and hope to many times more.
Vegetcibles.
Potatoes, boiled, fried, or mashed.
Meats.
Venison, roast. Venison sausages.
" steak, broiled. " hash.
" fried. " spitted.
Fish.
l^ke TrOut (salmon). Trout (spotted).
Boiled. Fried (in meal).
Baked. Broiled.
Broiled. Spitted.
Chowder.
Pancakes, with maple sirup (choice).
Bread, warm and stale, both.
Coffee. Tea.
Now imagine that you have been out for eight
hours, with a cool, appetizing mountain breeze
blowing in your face, and then fancy yourself
seated before your T)ark tal)le in the shadow of the
pines, with the water rippling at your feet ; a lake
64 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
dotted with islands, and walled in with mountains,
before you, and such a bill of fare to select from,
and then tell me if it looks like starvation ? If a
man cannot make a pound of Hesh per day on that
diet, I pity him !
And now, patient reader, having given j^ou all
the information necessary to make you acquainted
with the geography of the wilderness, the charac-
ter of the sporting tlierein, the outfit needed for
the excursion, tlie best routes of entrance, and
certain suggestions as to hotels, guides, and con-
trivances of protection from gnats and flies, I close
this chapter with the wish that you may find, in
excursions which you may make thereto, the health
and happiness which have, upon its waters and
under its softly murmuring pines, come to me, and
more abundantly — as to one w^ho needed them
more — to her who joins me in the hope of meet-
ing you amid the lilies which fleck with snow its
rivers, or in the merry circle, free from care, wdiich,
on some future evening, we hope to gather around
our camp-fire.
11.
THE NAMELESS CREEK.
\ T A^as five o'clock in the afternoon when, aftei
J- three hours of constant struggle with the cur-
rent, we burst our way througli a mass of alder-
bushes and marsh-grass, and beliuld, tlie lake lay
before us ! Wet from head to foot, panting from
my recent exertion, having eaten nothing since
seven in the morning, and weary from ten hours'
steady toil, I felt neitlier weariness nor hunger as
I gazed upon the scene. Shut in on all sides by
mountains, mirrored from Ijase to summit in its
placid bosom, bordered here with fresh green
grass and there with reaches of golden sand, and
again with patches of liHes, whose fragrance,mingled
with the scent of balsam and pine, filled the air,
the lake reposed unruffled and serene.
I know of nothing wliich carries the mind so far
back toward the creative period as to stand on the
shore of such a sheet of water, knowing that as you
behold it, so has it been for ages. The water
\i hich laves your feet is the same as that which
flowed when the springs wliich feed it were first
uncapped. No rude axe has smitten- the forests
66 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
which grow upon the mountains ; even the grass at
your side is as the parent spire which He who
ordereth all commands to bring forth seed after
its kind. All around you is as it was in the begin-
ning. I know not how long I should thus have
stood musing, but for a motion of John's, which
broke the chain of thought and brought my mind
back to the practical realization that we were
wet, hungry, and tired. In the middle of the lake
was a large flat rock, rising some two feet above the
surface of the water. Stepping noiselessly into our
boat, we paddled to the rock, and, wringing our drip-
ping garments, stretched ourselves at full length
upon it to dry. 0, the pleasant sensation of warmth
which that hard couch, to which the sun had given
a genial heat, communicated to us ! Never was bed
of eider-down so welcome to royal limbs as was
that granite ledge to ours. AVhat luxury to lie and
W'atcli the vapor roll up from your wet garments
while the warm rock gave out its heat to your
chilled body ! In an hour we were dry, at least
comparatively so, and we held a council. Our
commissariat Avas getting rather low. Our stores,
spread upon the rock, amounted to the following :
two pounds of pork, six pounds of flour, four meas-
ures of coffee, one half-pound of tea. John esti-
mated that this would last us three days, if I
had ordinary success with the rod. " But what
are we to do to-night? " I exclaimed ; " we have
i
THE NAMELESS CREEK. 67
neither trout nor venison, and I am hungry enough
to eat those two pounds of pork alone, if I once
get fairly at it, and there goes the sun back of
the tree-tops now ? " " Well, unstrap your rod and
select your flies," responded he, " and we will see
what we can find. I don't mean to have you wrap
yourself around that piece of pork to-night any
way." I did as requested. For the tail fly I
noosed on a brown hackle, above it I tied a killer,
and for the dapper I hitched on a white moth.
Taking the bow seat, John paddled straight for the
west shore of the lake, and the light boat, cutting
its way through the lily-pads, shot into a narrow
aperture overhung with bushes and tangled grass,
and I saw a sight I never shall forget. We liad
entered the inlet of the lake, a stream some twenty
feet in width, whose waters were dark and sluggish.
The setting sun yet poured its radiance through the
overhanging pines, flecldng the tide with crimson
patches and crossing it here and there with goklen
lanes. Up this stream, flecked with gold and bor-
dered with lilies as far as the eye could reach, the
air was literally full of jumping trout. From amid
lily-pads, from under the overhanging grass, and
in the bright radiance poured along the middle of
the stream, the speckled beauties were launching
themselves. Here a little fellow would cut his
tiny furrow along the siirface after a fluttering
gnat ; there a larger one, with quivering fin and
6S ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
open mouth, would fling liiniseK high into the air
in a brave attempt to seize a passing moth ; and
again, a two-pounder, like a miniature porpoise,
would lazily rise to the , surface, roll up his golden
side, and, flinging his broad tail upward, with a
splash disappear. Casting loose my flies and un-
coiling my leader, I made ready to cast ; but John,
unmindful or regardless of the motion, kept the even
sweep of his stroke. Eound tufted banks, under
overhanging pines, and through tangled lily-}!ads
we passed, and at every turn and up every stretch
of water the same sight presented itseK. At length,
sweeping sharply round a curve, John suddenly re-
versed his paddle and checked the boat, so that the
bow stood upon the very rim of a pool some forty
feet across. Dark and gloomy it lay, with its sur-
face as smooth as though no ripple had ever crossed
it No one would have guessed that beneath the
t/anquil surface lay life and sport.
Adjusting myself firndy on my narrow seat, un-
tangling the snells and gatliering up my leader, I
flung the flies into mid-air and launched them out
over the pool. The moment their feathery forms
had specked the water, a single gleam of yellow
light flashed up from the dark depth, and a trout,
clorsing his moutli upon the brown hackle, darted
downward. I struck and had him. A small trout
he proved to be, of only some half-pound weight.
After having passed him over to John to be disen-
THE NAMELESS CREEK. G9
gaged, I again launched the flies out, which, paus-
ing a moment in mid-air as the straightened line
brought them up, began slowly to settle down, but
ere they touched the water four gleams of light
crossed the pool and four quivering forms, with
wide-spread tails and open mouths, leaped high
out of water. I struck, and, after a brief struggle,
landed two. From that moment the pool was lit-
erally alive with eager fish. The deep, dark water
actually effervesced, stirred into bul:)bles and foam.
Six trout did T see at once in mid-air, in zealous
rivalry to seize the coveted flies. Fifteen succes-
sive casts were made, and twenty-three trout
lay flaj)ping on the bottom of the boat. But of
them all none would weigh over three quarters
of a pound ; yet had I seen fish riee which must
have balanced twice that weight. I turned to John
and said, "Wliy don't some of those large ones
take the fly?" " Presently, presently," responded he.
" The little ones are too quick for them ; cast away
quick and sharp, waste no time, snap them off, never
mind the flies, and when you have cleared the sur-
face of the small fry you will see what lies at the
bottom." I complied. At last, after some forty
had been flung down the stream, the rises became
less frequent, the water less agitated, and, partly
to rest my \vrist and partly to give John time to
adjust new and larger flies, I paused. In five
minutes the current had cleared the pool of bub-
70 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
bles, and the dark water settled gradually into sul-
len repose. " Now," said John, " lengthen your
line and cast at that patch of lily-pads lying under
the hemlock there, and if a large one rises, strike *
hard." I did as desired. The flies, in response
to the twist of the pliant rod, rose into the air,
darted forward, and, pausing over the lily-pads,
lighted deftly on the water. Scarcely had their
trail made itself visible on the smooth surface, be-
fore a two-pounder gleamed out of the dark depths,
and rolling his golden side up to the light, closed
his jaws upon the white moth. I struck. Stung
by the pain, he flung himself, with a mighty effort,
high in air, hoping to fall upon the leader and
snap the slender gut. Dropping the point of my
rod, he came harmlessly down upon the slack.
Eecovering himself, he dove to the bottom, sulking.
Bearing gradually upon his mouth, the only re-
sponse I got was a sullen sliaking, as a dog shakes
a woodchuck. Fearing his sharp teeth would cut
the already well-chafed snell, I bore stoutly upon
him, lifting him bodily up toward the surface.
When near the top, giving one desperate shake,
he started. Back and forth, round and round that
pool he flashed, a gleam of yellow liglit through
the dark water, until at last, wearied and exhausted
by his efforts, he rolled over upon his side and lay
* This word is one employed by sportsmen to denote the
motion with wliicli the fish is hooked.
THE NA:iIELESS CREEK. 71
panting upon tlie surface. Jolm deftly passed the
landing-net under liim, and the next minute he lay
amid his smaller brethren in the boat. I paused a
moment to admire. A bluish-black trout he was,
dotted with spots of bright vermilion. His fins,
rosy as autumnal skies at sunset, were edged with
a border of purest white. His tail was broad and
thick ; eyes prominent, mouth wide and armed with
briery teeth. A trout in color and build rarely
seen, gamy and stanch. Noosing on a fresh fly in
place of the one his teeth had mangled, I made
ready for another cast. Expecting much, I was not
prepared for what followed.
Now, all ye lovers of bright waters and green-
sward, who lift a poor half-pounder with your Ijig
trolling-rod and call it sport, listen and learn what
befell one of your craft at sunset at the pool of the
Nameless Creek. Nameless let it be, until she who
most would have enjoyed it shall, on some future
sunset, floating amid the lilies, cast flies upon its
tide.
A backward motion of the tip, and a half-turn of
the wrist, and the three flies leaped ujjward and
ahead. Spreading themselves out as they reached
the limit of the cast, like flakes of feathery snow
they settled, wavering downward ; when suddenly
up out of the depth, cleaving the water in concert,
one to each fly, three trout appeared. At the
same instant, high in mid-air, their jaws closed on
72 ADVKNTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the barbed hooks. No shout from John was need-
ed to make me strike. I struck so quick and
strong that the leader twanged like a snapped
bow-string, and the tip of the light rod flew down
nearly to the reel. All three icerc lioolicd. Three
trout, weighing in the aggregate seven pounds, held
by a single hair on a nine-ounce rod, in a pool
fringed with lily-pads, forty by thirty feet across !
Then followed what to enjoy again I would ride
thrice two hundred miles. The contest, requiring
nerve and skill on the fisher's part, was to keep the
plunging fish out of the lily-pads, in which, should
they once become entangled, the gut would part
like a thread of corn-silk or the spider's gossamer
line. Up and down, to and fro, they glanced. The
lithe rod bent like a coachman's whip to the un-
usual strain, and the leader sung as it cut through
the water with the whir of a pointed bullet.
At last, when at the farthest corner of the pool,
they doubled short upon tlie line, and as one fish
rushed straight for the boat. Fishermen know what
that movement means. " Give 'em the butt ! give
'em the butt ! " shouted John. " Smash your rod
or stop 'em ! " Never before had I feared to thrust
the butt of that rod out toward an advancing fish ;
but here were three, each large enough to task a
common rod, untired and frenzied with pain, rush-
ing directly toward me. If I hesitated, it was but
an instant, for the cry of John to " Smash her !
THE NAMELESS CREEK. 73
smash your rod or stop 'em ! " decided the matter.
Gripping the extreme butt with one hand, and
chitcliing the reel with the other, I hehl them
steadily out, toward the oncoming fish. " Good
by, old rod," I mentally exclaimed, as I saw
the three gleaming forms dash under the boat ;
"standi as you are, you can't stand that." An
instant, and the pressure came upon the reel. I
gripped it tightly, not giving an inch. The pliant
rod doubled itself up under the strain, until the
point of the tip was stretched a foot below the
hand which grasped the Initt, and the quivering
lance-wood lay across the distended knuckles. Nor
fish nor rod could stand that pressure long. I
could feel the fibres creep along the delicate shaft,
and the mottled line, woven of choicest silk, at-
tenuated under the strain, seemed like a single hair.
I looked at John. His eyes were fastened upon the
rod. I glanced down the stream, and even at the
instant the three magnificent fish, forced gradually
up l)y the pliancy of what they could not break,
broke the smooth surface and lay with open
mouths and gasping gills upon the tide. In
trying to land the three, the largest one escaped.
The other two averaged sixteen inches long. AVith-
in tlie space of forty minutes nearly a hundred
trout had been taken, fifty of which, varying from
one quarter of a pound to two pounds and a half in
weight, lay along the bottom of the boat; the rest
4
74 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
had been cast back into the water, as unhooked by
John. It was Saturday evening. The sun had
gone down behind the western mountains, and amid
the gathering shadows we sought a camp. We
found one in the shape of a small bark lodge, which
John himself had erected fourteen years previous,
when, in company with an old trapper, he camped
one fall upon the shores of this lake. Kindling
a fire in the long-neglected fireplace, we sat down
to our supper under the clear sky already thickly
dotted with stars. From seven in the morning
until eight in the evening we had been without
food. I have an indistinct recollection that I
put myself outside of elev^en trout, and that John
managed to surround nine more. But there may
be an error of one or two either way, for I am under
the impression that my mental faculties were not
in the best working condition at the close of the
meal. John recollects distinctly that he cooked
twenty-one fish, and but three could be found in
the pan when we stopped eating, which he care-
fully laid aside that we might take a bite before
going to sleep !
Our meal was served up in three courses. The
first course consisted of trout and pancakes ; the
second course, pancakes and trout ; the tliird, fish
and flapjacks.
III.
RUNNING THE RAPIDS.
•• "\ T OW for the rapids," said John, as our boat
■^ ^ left the tranqviil waters of the lake, and,
sweeping around a huge shelving ledge, shot into
the narrow channel, where the Waters, converged
from either shore, were gathering themselves for
the foam and thunder below.
The rapids were three miles in length, — one
stretch of madly rushing water, save where, at the
foot of some long flight or perpendicular fall, a
pool lay, specked with bubbles, and flecked with
patches of froth. The river is paved with rocks,
and full of boulders, amid which the water glides
smooth and deep, or dashes with headlong vio-
lence against them. And ever and anon, at the
head of some steep declivity, gathering itself for
flight, downward it shoots with arrowy swiftness,
until, bursting over a fall, it buries itself in the
pool beneath.
At the head of such a stretch of water, whose
roar and murmur filled the air, we ran our boats
ashore. Never until this season had these rapids
been run, even by the guides ; and now, untried,
76 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
inexperienced, against the advice of friends, I was
to attempt, unaided and alone, to guide my boat
past ledge, through torrents, and over waterfalls,
to the still bay below. The preparation was
simple, and soon made. I strapped my rifle, rod,
and all my baggage to the sides and bottom of the
boat, relaced my moccasins and tightened my belt,
so that, in case I stove the shell, or, failing to keep
her steady, should cajDsize her, I might take to the
water light, and have my traps drift ashore with
the wreck. Nevertheless, I did not intend that
the boat should upset ; indeed, the chances were
in my favor. Oars and boats had been my play-
things from a boy ; and wild indeed must be the
current up and across which I could not shoot
the shell in which I sat, — made of forest pine,
fourteen feet in length, sharp as an arrow, and
weighing but seventy pounds. In addition, John
had given me valuable hints, the sum of which
might be expressed thus : " In currents, keep her
straight ; look out for underlying rocks, and smash
your oars before you smash your boat." " Little
danger," I said to myself, " of snapping oar-blades
made of second-growth ash, and only eight feet
from butt to tip." Yet it was not without some
misgiving that I shot my boat out into the swift
current, and with steady stroke held her on the
verge of the first flight of water, while I scanned
the foam and eddies for the best opening between
RUNNING THK RAPIDS. 77
the rocks to get her through. In shooting ra[)-
ids the oarsman faces down stream in order to
watch the currents, direct his course, and, if need
be, when within his power, and danger is ahead, to
check his flight and choose another course. The
great thing and the essential thing to learn and
do is to take the advantage of the currents, whirls,
and eddies, so as to sway your boat, and pass from
this to that side of the rapids easily. The agree-
ment was, that John should precede me in his
boat ; that I, watching his motions, and guided
by his course somewhat, might be assisted in the
descent by his experience. A good arrangement,
surely ; but
" The best laid schemes o' mice and men
Gang aft agley,"
as we found before half a mile of the course
had been run ; for my l)oat, being new and light,
beside less lieavily loaded than John's, caught at
the head of some falls by the swift current, darted
down the steep decline, and entering side by side,
with a mighty leap, the yeasty foam, shot out
ahead, and from that moment led the race to the
foot of the rapids. But I anticipate.
Thus, as I said, I sat in my boat, holding her
steadily, by strength of oar, in mid-stream, where
the water smoothed itself for the plunge, until
John, with friend Burns sitting upon his feet like
78 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
a Yurk, on the bottom of the boat, holding on to
either side with his hands to steady himself
(whether John had strapped him down or not i
can't surely say), pushed from shore, and, taking
the current above, brushed swiftly by, with the
injunction to " follow." I obeyed. Down we
glided, past rock and ledge, swerving now this
side, now that, sweeping round giant boulders and
jutting banks, down under the dark balsams and
overhanging pines, the suction growing stronger
and stronger, the flight swifter, until the boats,
like eagles swooping on one prey, took the last
utretch almost side by side, and, lifted high up on
the verge of the first falls, made the wild leaj)
together, and disappeared into the yeasty foam^
whence, rising buoyantly, uplifted by the swelling
water, shot out of the foam and mist, and, like
birds fresh from sport, floated cork-like on the
pool below.
We paused a moment to breathe, when, looking
up, the two remaining boats, guided by Jerry and
the younger Eobinson, bearing Southwick and
Everitt as passengers, came sweeping round the
curve, and rushing, as from the roof of a house,
to the brink of the fall, flung themselves into the
abyss, and in a moment lay along our side. The
excitement was intense. No words can describe
the exhilaration of such a fliglit. It was thought,
after mature delil)erati()n by the company, that
RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 79
Everitt's delighted yell alone, in ordinary weather,
with a little wind in its favor, might have been
heard easily sixteen miles. His whole being, cor-
poral and spiritual, seemed to resolve itself into
one prolonged howl of unmitigated happiness.
Having rested ourselves, we started again. By
this time, brief as the experience had been, I had
learned much as to the action of currents, and \\'as
able to judge pretty correctly how low a rock or
ledge lay under water l)y the size and motion of
the swirl above it. One learns fast in action ;
and fifteen minutes of actual experience amid
rapids does more to teach the eye and hand what
to do, and how to do it, than any amount of infor-
mation gathered from other sources. To sit in
your light shell of a boat, in mid-current, with
rocks on either side, where the bed of the river
declines at an angle of thirty degrees, knowing
that a miscalculation of the eye, a misstroke of the
oar or the least shaking of the muscles will send
your boat rolling over and over, and you under it,
has a very strong tendency to make a man look
sharp and keep his wits about him.
AVell, as I said, we started. For some fifty rods
the current was comparatively smooth and slow.
Tlie river was wide and the decline not sharp.
The chief difficulty we found to be in avoiding the
stones and rocks with which the bottom of the
river is paved, and which in many places were
80 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
barely covered. My boat, with only myself in it,
needed but some two inches of water to float in,
and would pass safely over where tlie other boats
would touch or refuse to go at all. It required
great care on the part of the guides to let theirs
over gently, as their bottoms are but little thicker
than pasteboard, and held by small copper tacks.
At last the shallows were past, and, Ijringing our
boats in line, one behind the other, we made all
ready for another rush. The sight from this point
was grand. Our boats were poised as on the
ridge-board of a house, while below, for some
twenty rods, the water went tearing down ; now
gliding over a smooth shelving ledge, with the
quick, tremulous motion of a serpent, and now
torn to shreds by jagged rocks at tlie bottom, and
again beat back by huge boulders which lifted
themselves in mid-current, presenting to the
eye one continuous stretch of mad turmoil and
riot. At the foot of the reach the eye could just
discern the smooth, glassy rim of a fall, we knew
not how high, while far down the river, shut from
view by a sharp curve, the rush and roar of other
falls rose sullenly up through the heavy pines and
overhanii'inu' hemlocks, which almost arched the
current from side to side. At a word from John,
who, leading the van, sat as a warrior might sit
his steed, bareheaded and erect, the oars were
lifted, and the freed boats, as though eager for
RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 81
flight, started downward. Away, away they flew.
If before they went like birds, they went like
eagles noAV. No keeping in line here ; each man
for himself in this wild race ; and woe to boatman
and to boat if an oar should break or oar-bolt
snap. Close after John, gaining at every rush,
my light boat sped. No thought for others, all
eye and nerve for self, with a royal upleaping of
blood, as my face, wet with the spray, clove
through the air, I flashed until the fall was
reached, and, side by side, with trailing oars, we
took the leap together. Down, down we sank
into the feathery foam ; the froth flung high over
us as we splashed into it. Down, down, as if the
pool had no bottom, we went, our boats half full
of spume and foam, till the reacting water under-
neath caught the light shells up and flung them
out of the yeast and mist, dripping inside and out,
from stem to stern, as sea-birds rising from a
plunge. No stop nor stay for breathing here.
Around the curve, by no effort of mine leading
the race, I went, swept down another reach and
over another fall, and, without power to pause a
moment, entered into the third before I had time
to think. Steeper than all behind, it lay before
me, but straight, and for a distance smooth, for
aught I could see as I shook the spray from my
eyes, until it narrowed, and the converging tor-
rent met between two overhanging rocks in one
4* »
82 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
huge ridge of tossing, swelling w^ater. What lay
below I knew not ; how steep the fall, or on what
bottom I should land. In rapids, John had told
me, the wildest water was the safest, and so I
steered straight for the highest swell of water and
the whitest foam. Fancy a current, rods in width,
converging as it glides, until the mass of rushing
water is brought as into an eaves-trough five feet
across, with sharp, jutting rocks for sides, where
the compressed water flings itself wildly up, in-
dignant at the restraint put upon it ; and then
fancy yourself in a boat weighing but seventy
pounds, gliding down with a swiftness almost
painful into the narrow funnel through which,
bursting, you must shoot a fall you cannot see,
but whose roar rises heavily over the dash of the
torrent, and you can realize what it is to shoot the
rapids of the Eacquette Eiver, and my position at
the time.
Balancing myself nicely on the seat, dipping
the oar-blades until their lower edges brushed
along the tide, I kept my eyes steadily upon the
narrow aperture, and let her glide. Nothing but
the pressure of the air upon the cheek, as the face
clove it, and the sharp whistling of the seething
current, bespeaks the swiftness with which you
move. When near the narrow gorge, — which
you must take square in the centre, and in direct
line, or smash your boat to flinders, — while the
RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 83
width would yet allow, wishing some steerage-way
before I entered the chasm, I threw my whole
strength upon the oars. The lithe ash bent to
the strain, and the boat quivered from stem to
stern under the quick stroke. Then, bending for-
ward upon the seat, with oars at a trail, I shot
into the opening between the rocks. For an in-
stant the oar-blades grated along their sides, and
then, riding upon the crest of a Avave, I passed out
of the damp passage, and lo ! the fall whose roar I
had heard yawned just beneath me. Quick as
thought, I swung the oars ahead, and as the bil-
\o\v lifted me high up upon the very brink, gave
way with all my might. AYhatever spare strength
I had lying anywhere about me, at that particular
point of time, I am under the impression was
thrown into those oar-blades. The boat was fairly
lifted off the wave, and shot into the air. For an
instant, it touched neither water nor foam, then
dropped into the boiling caldron. Another stroke
and it darted out of the seething mass with less
than a gallon of water along the bottom.
TJie rapids ivcrc run ! Wiping the sweat from
my face, and emptying the water from the barrels
of my rifle, I rested on my oars, to see the boys
come down. 0, royal sight it was, to see them
come, one after another, — John leading the van,
— over the verge ! As boats in air they seemed,
witli airy boatmen, as they came dashing along.
84 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
0, royal sport, to see tliem glide like arrows down
the steep, at an angle so sharp that I conld see the
bottom board in each boat, from stem to stern !
0, noble sight to see them enter in between the
mighty rocks, — the chasm shutting them from
view a moment, — from which, emerging in
quick succession, with mighty leaps, quivering
like sporting fish, they shot the falls triumph-
antly !
What sports have we in house and city like
those which the children of wood and stream
enjoy ? — heroic sports which make heroic men.
Sure I am, that never until we four have done
with boats and boating, and, under other pilotage,
have entered into and passed through the waters
of a colder stream, shall we forget the running of
the Eacquette Eapids, on that bright summer day.
And often, as we pause a moment from work,
above the harsh rumble of car and cart, the sound
of file and hammer, rises the roar of the rapids.
And often, through the hot, smoky air of town
and city, to cool and refresh us, will drift, from
the far north, tlie breeze that blows forever on the
Eacquette, rich with the odors of balsam and of
pine.
That night I slept upon the floor at Palmer's,
proud to feel that I was the first " gentleman " —
in the language of the guides — " that ever ran
the rapids " ; prouder of that than of deeds, at-
RUNNING THE RAPIDS. 8o
tempted or done, of which most men would longer
dream. I nearly forgot to state that several un-
earthly yells in the chamber overhead, during the
night, revealed the fact ^,hat somebody, in dreams,
was still rimning the rapids.
IV.
THE BALL.
WE were seven in all, — as jolly a set of fel-
lows as ever rollicked under the pines,
or startled the owls with laughter, that summer
of '67, when camping on the Eacquette. Our com-
pany represented a variety of business and profes-
sions ; but, happily, we were of one temper and
taste.
There was Hubbard, a gentleman faultless in
bearing and speech ; the fit of whose coat and the
gloss of whose boots, whether you met him in Wall
Street or at his manufactory in Connecticut, might
well stir the envy of an exquisite. There was
Everitt, to whose name you could write photog-
rapher, artist, violinist ; the most genial, sunny,
kind-hearted, and roUicksome fellow that ever en-
livened a camp, or blest the world with his pres-
ence. South wick, when at home, supplied half the
city with soles ; Avho sells boots and shoes in such
a manner as to make you feel, as you go stamping
away from his presence, that he has done you a spe-
cial favor in condescending to take your money at
all ; a man who crossed tlie Isthmus, and tunnelled
THE BALL. 87
the gulches of California for gold in 1848 ; a shrewd,
wide-awake Yankee, such as are grown principally
in that smartest of all our States, — the Nutmeg
State. And there, too, was Fitch, who had han-
dled the saw and lancet in the army during the
Nvar. And Fay, the la^^"yer, who had fought the
battle all young laAvy^ers must fight, and Avon.
And Burns, and the I'arson. A goodly set of
fellows, one and all, e(j^ually ready for business or
fun.
We were on our way " out," bronzed and tough
from exposure to the sun, water, and wind ; and
with hearts as free from care and as liu'ht as chil-
dren's, we clomb the hill, at the base of which we
had run our boats ashore, and entered, with merry
greetings. Uncle Palmer's house. What a hungry
set we were, when, at four o'clock that afternoon,
we drew up to that never-to-be forgotten table !
What jokes and stories and peals of laughter en-
livened the repast, and made the tal)le and dishes
shake and clatter as the meal progressed. N(j
coarseness nor rudeness there ; each man a gentle-
man, still, amid the liveliest sally of wit and loud-
est roar of merriment. At last the meal was o\-er,
and we adjourned to the open air to smoke or
lounge, or to engage in rivalry of skill, until the
day, rich in its summer loveliness, should fade
away. Several matches with the rifle — the result
of boastful banter — at last enoaiie the attention of
90 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
this had the true sermon ring. No, I had not lost
my power. My birthright had not been filched
from me. I began to feel the oratorical impulse
once more. I drew myself up, closed the thumb
and two middle fingers of my left hand, and point-
ing the other two directly at the audience, as I had
seen some of our celebrated orators, clenched the
fight fist, and shook it at an invisible foe over
my head, — a gesture borrowed from some of our
Congressmen, — and shouted : " Dancing will be a
perilous amusement to you to-night ; because —
because — " I lost the connection here, but re-
membering what a slight matter such a lapse is
in a sermon, before most congregations, and feel-
ing that it would not do to stop just there, con-
tinued, — " beccmse it leads to a promiscuous min-
gling of the two sexes. On this ground I am
to-night, and ever shall be, opposed to it. I warn
you against Mr. Southwick's suggestion."
At this point I was interrupted by the most
uproarious tumult. Intense and indecorous mer-
riment seized the entire group. Hubbard was
pressing his hands against his sides in the
most suggestive manner. Everitt was hammer-
ing Southwick with both fists upon his back, in
the hope of saving him from death by stran-
gulation. It was impossible to proceed. I was
conscious that I ought to go on. I had several
splendid sentences all ready for utterance. I felt
THE BALL. 91
that every moment I was losing my hold upon the
audience. Still the uproar grew. In wrath, min-
gled with love, I descended from the slabs, and
taking Burns gently but decidedly by the collar,
demanded the cause of his unseemly mirth.
Sobered slightly by my attitude, which was
sternly affectionate, Burns managed to articulate,
" How can there be a ' promiscuous mingling of the
sexes ' in this crowd ? "
I stood perfectly dumb. I saw the justness of
the criticism and the dilemma suggested. I real-
ized, at that moment, the value of logical connec-
tion.
Had my audience been in a church, and devoutly
drowsy or piously asleep, such a slight slip would
never have been noticed, and the report of the
sermon, ^^Titten out by a godless expert, who had
not left his hotel during the day, would have ap-
peared excellently in ^Monday's papers.
I retired in haste and mortification from the
yelling and writhing group ; nor did I regain my
composure until tlie sounds of Everitt's violin
cliarined tlie darkness from my soul as the harp
of David exorcised by its melody the wicked
spirit from the bosom of Saul.
Now Everitt is a natural fiddler. He fiddles as
easily as a rabbit runs. While camping on Con-
stable Point, on the Racquette, we had several
fconcerts. They were, in eveiy sense, impromptu
92 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
affairs. The audience was small, but very appreci-
ative. (That sentence is not original. I borrowed
it from the musical column of the New York Her-
ald.) These concerts were especially well sus-
tained ; that is, for about four hours and a half
each time. We had some very fine singing at
those soirees. {Soirees is a good word. It sounds
well. That 's Avhy I use it.) I hesitate to in-
stance individual members of this troupe, lest it
should seem invidious. Hubbard is an excellent
singer. He missed his chance of eminence when
he went into business. He should have taken to
the stage. The Parson would have distinguished
himself, liad he lived before notes were invented.
iSTothing in the M^orld but notes prevents him from
ranking first class. Even this fact did not pre-
clude him from standing high in this company.
Nevertheless, I am still impressed with the thought
that he was born too late. I never listened to a
circle of amateurs wdio seemed to rise so superior
to the arbitrary dictum of the masters as did tliis.
Not one of them, so far as I could observe, allowed
any such artificial impediments as notes, pitch,
time, and the like, to obstruct the splendid out-
bursts of nature. In point of emphasis, which is,
as all my readers know, the great desideratum in
music, I judge them to be unrivalled. In tliat
classic stanza,
" There sat three crows upon a tree,"
THE BALL. 93
their emphasis was magnificent. But I was tell-
ing about Everitt's fiddling. Nature dealt botmti-
t'ully with my friend in tliis respect. His capacity
and perseverance in drawing a bow border on the
mar^'ellous. Indeed, he is a kind of animated mu-
sical machine. Set him going, and he Avill play
through the entire list of known tunes before he
comes to a halt. His intense actiAuty in this di-
rection afforded the only possible solution for the
greatest mystery of the camp, — Everitt's appetite
while in the woods. I find in my " notes " a math-
ematical calculation, made the fifth night in camp.
It was the result of the gravest deliberation on
the part of the whole company, and is beyond
doubt nearly correct. Tliis is tlie fornmla : —
" Exhaustion of muscular filjre through fiddling,
two pounds per night. Consumption of venison
steak, three and a half pounds.
" Not gain to Everitt, one pound and a half per
night."
Tliis conclusion contributed materially to relieve
the minds of the company from an anxiety con-
cerning the possilile results of the trip to Everitt.
"When I entered the room, drawn thither, as I
have said, by the tones of the violin, the company
were in full career. The intricacies of the Vir-
ginia reel were being threaded out with a rapidity
which, with ladies for partners, would have been
rathei embarrassing. After the C|uadrille, Spanish
94 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
dance, and several others had been gone through,
the floor was cleared for individual exhibitions
of skill. Then was the double-shuffle executed
with an energy never excelled. Gentlemen and
guides contended in friendly rivalry. Everitt
was in prime condition, and drew the bow with
a vehemence which, if long continued, would
liave sent him out of the woods lighter in flesh
by several pounds than when he came in. At last
the floor was again cleared, partners cliosen, and
with every rule of etiquette observed, good old
money-musk was honored, — partners gallantly
saluted as if they were ladies, jewelled and fair,
and the company seated.
At this point the proceedings assumed a new
character. The conversation might be reported
thus : —
Guide. " I suppose you folks down in the settle-
ments don't dance as we do ? "
Everitt. "Well, no, not exactly. Our dances
are largely French."
Guide. " Do tell ! Well, now, how is that ? "
Everitt. " I do not think I could give you a cor-
rect idea of them ; they are very peculiar."
Guide. " Come, now, could n't some of you give
us a notion about it ? We would like to see how
you dance down in the cities."
Everitt. " The fact is, we have more action in
our dancing than you have in yours. It would
THE BALL. 95
make your eyes stick out to see a French
dance."
Guides. " Come, now," they all shouted, " show
us how it is done ; we all want to see. Give us one
of your tip-top French dances. Come, now."
" Well, fellows," said Evuritt, giving us the wink
as he tuned his violin, " what say you, shall \ve
show our friends how to dance a real, s^^'inging
French dance ? If so, shall we put Hubbard or
Southwick on the floor ? "
" 0, Southwick by all means ! " shouted Burns.
" No disparagement to Hubbard, but Southwick is
the man ; especially if he will give us the dance
he danced last summer on our fishing-trip ' Down
East.' " So it was arranged, and Southwick took
the liint and the floor.
Now Southwick was the best dancer there ; that
is, he covered the most ground. His performance
was the theme of universal remark. His style
was superb. There was a certain ahandon in it,
which few Americans could rival. I know of but
one word whicli can at all describe Southwick
when dancing ; it is — omnipresent. Tliis epithet
is moderately accurate.
The room was some thirty-five feet long, but he
was often at both ends of it at the same time. If
to rivet the attention of the audience is success,
my friend certainly achieved it. There was but
one thought on the part of the whole company
96 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
whenever South wick danced ; it was to get out of
the way. Greater unanimity in this respect was
never seen. Never, before that evening, did I de-
sire that a room might have more than four corners,
but I more than once devoutly wished that that
room had had sixteen. Sixteen would not have
been one too many, wdth my friend on the floor. I
called Uncle Palmer's attention to the terrible lack
of corners in his house. At the time I made the
suggestion, the old gentleman was trying to force
himself in between the door-post and the sheath-
ing. He appeared to appreciate it. After a few
preliminary flourishes, Everitt shouted the word
"Go ! " and South wick struck out. I saw him com-
ing, and dodged ; I escaped. The next time he
swung round, I was prepared for him. There w^ere
several wooden pins driven into the logs near the
ceiling, such as our forefathers were wont to season
their beef-hams on. Spying one of these just over
my head, as I stood flattened against the wall, I
vaulted from the floor and clutched it. The scene
from this point of view was very picturesque. The
fellows had oliserved my movement, and followed
my example : it affected them like an inspiration.
In an instant the whole company were suspended
from pins around the room. A sense of the ludi-
crous overcame m-y terror, and I began to laugh.
That laugh grew on me. I found myself unable to
stop laughing. My eyes began to moisten and run
THE BALL. 97
over. Now, a man cannot laugh in that fashion, and
hang on to a pin at the same time. I have tried
it, and know. First one finger began to slip, then
another loosened and gave way a little ; the mus-
cles of my hand would not obey my will to con-
tract. I found it impossible to retighten my grip ;
I knew it would probalily be fatal to drop. I
endeavored to stop laughing. Now, it is a well-
known fact, that when one tries to stop laugh-
ing he can't. If you ever doubted this, reader,
never doubt it again. If any man strove to stop,
I did. My effort was vain. I fairly shook my-
self off the pin, and dropped. That sobered
me. The instant I struck the floor, all laugh-
ter departed. I saw Southwick coming. I seized
hold of the window-sill, the wood of which
was cedar ; I sunk my nails deep into it ; it
Juki. The next time he swung round the circle
I was saved by a miracle, that is, in a way
I cannot account for. I was just poising my-
self for a plunge at the door, when the music
ceased, and my friend sat down. We all cheered
him immensely. I cheered louder than all the
rest. I never had greater cause to cheer. Every-
body complimented him. One exclaimed, " What
a free action ! " another, " How liberal in style ! "
I said, " Astonishing ! " We all saw that it had
made a great impression on the guides. They said
that " they had no idea folks danced so, down in
5 Q
98 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the settlements." " It is n't anything to what I
could do if the room was only larger, is it ? " said
he, appealing to me. " No ; this room is terribly
cramped," I responded, thinking of my narrow
escape, and fearful that he might repeat the per-
formance ; " no educated dancer can do himself
justice in it ; I would not try again, if I were in
your place."
At this point of the entertainment a delightful
addition was made to the party. Certain messen-
gers, who started early in the evening on horses
and in boats, had scoured the country and lake
shore, and returned accompanied by a bevy of
young ladies. Their entrance caused great com-
motion. Hubbard glanced uneasily at his un-
polished boots. Burns had fished a pair of old
kids from the depth of his hunting-shirt pocket,
and was inspecting their condition behind South-
wick's back. Everitt suddenly discovered that he
could keep his seat without the use of three chairs.
The Parson brightened up at the prospect that his
philippic against dancing, and the "promiscuous
mingling of the sexes," might yet be delivered
with effect. Tliere was a dead pause. All were
introduced to the ladies, each guide presenting
" his man." Uncle Palmer's benignant face ap-
peared at the door, looking perfectly jubilant.
Here the writer would gladly pause. He feels
<flat the narration has proceeded far enough.
THE BALL. 99
Would that he might record that the company
played " blind-man's-buff," or " roll the trencher,"
or those refined "ring plays" where healthy and
moral exliilaration is experienced by each man
hugging and kissing his partner. But his duty
as a historian forbids. Truth must not be muti-
lated through partiality for friends ; and, as a
chronicler of facts, he is bound to say, affirm, and
transmit to posterity, that the company actually
danced! Yes, that is the word, — danced. tern-
pora ! 'mores ! which, freely translated, signifies
" What is the world coming to ! " Eeader, pardo?
this exhibition of virtuous feeling, this generou'
outburst against the vices of the day. Even He-
rodotus could not have restrained himself, in my
position. But I must return to the historic style,
— the plain narration of facts.
Fii-st, Uncle Palmer led off with his wife, — age
countenancing the foibles of youth ! Then Uncle
Ike Robinson tripped down the floor with his
daughter. Next, ye gods ! Hubbard whirled
away with a nimble-footed damsel. Burns shot
by with little Miss Palmer, and Southwick, the
indomital)le, careered along the floor with Jerry,
his guide. (Which was the lady I cannot say.)
And last of all, " John," the trusty, honest John,
whizzed past with a lovely attachment to his arm.
The costumes of the dancers were unique. In cut
and color no one could complain of sameness.
100 ADVENT URP:S IN THP: WILDERNESS.
Uncle Ike was in his stockings. John had on
tightly-laced moccasins. Southwick sported a pair
of bright scarlet slippers. Hubbard shook the floor
with boots that had seen service on the " carry."
All were mingled together; while above the din
made by heavy boots smiting the resounding floor,
the merry laugh of girls, and peals of irrepressible
mirth, the voice of Everitt, who sat perched upon
the back of a chair, sawing away with all his
might, rang out the necessary orders. It has been
reported that at this juncture the Parson himself
was swept by the centripetal attraction into the
revolving mass, and that the way he " cut it down "
revealed a wonderful aptness for the " double-shuf-
fle," and that a large amount of the old Adam
remained yet to be purged out of his natural con-
stitution. The probabilities are that this report is
entirely unfounded, or at least grossly exaggerated.
At last, well along in the fashionable hours, the
revelry ceased, the company separated, and silence
settled down over the household. With the sounds
the scene itself would have passed away and been
forgotten save by the actors, had not the pen of
the Parson rescued it from threatened oblivion,
and in these pages preser\^ed it for transmission
to posterity. He thus avenges himself on those
who interrupted him in the exercise of his right,
by recounting the folly his speech would undoubt-
edly have prevented, had he been permitted to
proceed.
V.
LOON-SHOOTING IN A THUNDER-STORM.
THE shrill cry of a loon piercing the air broke
my llea^y slumber, and brought me to my
feet in an instant, rifle in hand. The night before,
late in the evening, we had run our boat ashore, and,
stretching ourselves on either side of the quickly
lighted camp-fire, with no shelter but the overhang-
ing trees, dropped instantly to sleep. From that
slumber, almost as deep as that Avdiich is endless,
the cry of a loon had aroused me. Directly in
front of the camp, with his long black head and
spotted back glistening in the sun, some fifteen
rods from the shore, the magnificent bird sat,
eying the camp. If there is any sound which will
start a fellow to his feet tpiicker than the cry of a
loon under his cam}), about six in the morning, I
have yet to hear it. Wide awake the instant I
struck the perpendicular, I dropped my rifle —
never in those woods, by day or night, beyond
reach — into the extended palm, and simultane-
ously the sharp concussion broke the surr(ninding
silence. The sight \A-as good, and the lead w^ell sent ;
but the acile bird, — well named the Great Northern
102 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
Diver, — ever on the alert, liad gone under witli the
flash ; and the bullet, striking the swirl made by
his dive, glanced up, and went bounding, in ever-
lessening skips, across the lake. The crack of the
rifle awoke John from a sliunber such as men sleep
after fourteen hours of constant rowing ; and, start-
ing up, the fire was soon rekindled, and the ccn.co
boiling. Soon all was ready, and we were pro-
visioning ourselves for the coming day. Trout,
coffee, and the inevitable flapjacks made up the
bill of fare.
The morning, in its atmospheric appearances, was
peculiar. Not a breath of air was stirring. The
little lake was as liquid glass, without ripple or
seam. Even the forest, that, like the sensitive
strings of a harp, is rarely, if ever, silent, sent
forth no sound, and its dim recesses were still as
death. Above, the clouds were dull and slaty.
They, too, hung motionless. No scud drifted
athwart their surface ; no rift broke their smooth
expanse. The sun, with its broad face barred wdth
streaks of cloud, looked red and fiery. It had
a hot, angry look, as if enraged at seeing the ob-
structions in its upward path. In the west, out
of the slaty cloud, the white and feathery heads of
some cumuli upreared themselves, suggesting rain
and the hot blaze of lightning.
"John," said I, as we each sat with a warm
trout in one hand and a pint-cup of coffee in
LOON-SHOOTING IN A THUNDER-STORM. 103
the other, — " John, we shall have a tough day
of it."
" Yes/' said he, pausing a moment in liis eating to
listen, and holding on with one hand to the tail of
a fish, of which tlie front half was already beyond
human sight ; " there goes some thunder now "; and
even as he spoke a jar shook the earth under us,
and a heavy roar rolled up sullenly out of the west.
We finished our meal, and then, lighting our
pipes, seated ourselves on the shore of the lake, in
counsel. The air was heavy, thick, and oppressive ;
not a sound broke the stillness. Had the heavens
above us been the roof of a cavern a thousand
fathoms under earth, the breathless quiet could not
have been deeper. The colloquy ran something in
this wise : —
" How long is the next carry, John ? "
" Three miles, if we go to Bottle Pond ; a mile
and a half, if we go to Salmon Lake," was the
answer.
" How is the carry to Bottle Pond ? " I asked.
" A mere trapper's line," said John ; " it is n't
cut out ; two miles and a lialf by blazed trees, and
half a mile of slough."
" That 's delightful ! " I exclaimed ; " how is it by
way of Salmon Lake ? "
"It 's a mile and a half to Salmon," was the
response ; " not cut out ; crossed only in winter by
hunters ; half a mile of swamp."
104 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" Well, we 'U go to Salmon Lake ; that 's the
nigher," I said. " Shall we get rain ? "
As John was about to reply, a dull, heavy sound
came up from the depths of the forest, — a solemn,
ominous sound, breaking the dead silence. An-
other and another followed ; a muffled roar, filling
the air, so that one might not tell from what quar-
ter it came.
" Yes," said John, as the noise died away, — " yes,
it luill rain. The old trees never lie. Those sounds
you have just heard are made by falling trees.
You always hear them before a storm."
" But, John," I exclaimed, " what makes them
faU this morning ? There is not a breath of ait
stirring."
" I don't know," responded John, " what makes
them fall. I have often thought how queer it is.
Many a time ha\'e I sat in my canoe on a morn-
ing like this, when there was not wind enough
to float a feather, and seen the old fellows come
crashing down. I tell you what," continued he,
" it makes a man feel solemn, to see tree after tree,
great, giant chaps, a hundred and fifty feet high,
begin all of a sudden to quiver and reel, and then
fall headlong' to the ground ; when, for auglit you
can see, there is no earthly cause for it. Let us sit
still a moment and hear them."
I did as requested. Now, far away in the forest,
the same dull, heavy roar would arise, linger a mo-
LOOX-SHUUTINC, IN A THUNDER-STOKM. i(j5
ineiit in tlie air, then die away. Then, nigh at hand,
a rushing sound, as the 1 )rooni-like top of some
mighty pine swept through the air, would Ml
upon the ear, followed Ijy the crash of broken
boughs and the heavy tliump of the huge trunk
as it smote the eartli. Then, far away, half
smothered between the mountains, would rise
again the dull roar, and we knew another mon-
arch of the woods had yielded its life at au
unknown sunnnons.
I am free to confess, that John's remark as tc
the effect of such a phenomenon upon one, waa
then and there fully verified by myself. I know
nothing more mysteriously solemn than this sound
of falling trees coming up from the forest, ■ — falling,
so far as you can see, without cause. What unseen
hand smites them ? What pressure, unfelt l)y man,
pushes their vast trunks oxev ? Is it to the Spirit
of the coming Storm they l)ow, prostrating them-
selves in anticipation of his chariot's approach ? Is
there some subtle and hostile chemistry in the air
wdiich penetrates their fibres, weakening them to
their fall ? Or do these aged patriarchs of the
wood, with fearful prophecy, foresee their houi
of doom, and, in the breathless lull ere the tem-
pest breaks, yield like an ancient Koman to their
fate?
" Perchance," I said to John, " He who noteth
the falling of a sparrow and marketh the boundary
5*
1U6 ADVENTUKES IN THE WILDERNESS.
of liiinian life, liatli given the trees a limit also,
which they may not pass ; and these are being
summoned, and so go down."
We sat a moment in silence ; then, with a com-
mon impulse, witliout a word, arose, and, gathering
ap our traps, made ready for a start. As we pushed
out into the lake, we saw that the clouds in the
west were blacker ; a flash of lightning ran along
their upper verge, and the mountain above us
caught up the heavy boom, and, as if enraged at
the intrusion on its silence, hurled it back angrily
toward the cloud. At the same instant the shrill,
mocking cry of a loon rose into the air, mingling
with the reverberations of the thunder, as light
treble notes break sharply through a heavy vol-
ume of bass.
" There 's the confounded loon," exclaimed John,
"that frightened the deer from the shore last nig] it.
If it was n't for that thunder-shower in the west,
we 'd teach her to keep her mouth shut before we
left the pond. I think you might start the
feathers off her back any way, tube or no tube."
The last sentence needs explanation. Loons
are the shyest and most expert swimmers of all
waterfoAvl. Twenty rods is as near as you can get
to them. When under fire, they sink themselves
into the water so that nothing bvit the feathers
along theu' backs and heads are in sight, and so
quick are they that they dive at the flash, getting
LOON-SHOOTIXG IN A THUNDER-STOEM. 107
under in time to escape the bullet. Yet I have
killed them rej^eatedly on Long Island Sound, driv-
ing my buUet through the butt of the wing, thirty
rods away. There are two styles of gun-tubes ; the
first kind is so open as to allow the powder to pass
up to the cap. AVhen the cap explodes, this pow-
der must burn grain by grain, and so comparative-
ly slow. The other kind is so made as to prevent
the powder from passing up into it ; and the
lightning-like percussion has free course to the
centre of the charge in the chamber. Slight as the
difference w^ould seem to be, it is a vital one in
loon-shooting. With tubes of either make in the
barrels of my rifle, loading with the same charge, I
have killed with the one and invariably failed to
kill with the other. Unfortunately, the tubes in my
barrels this season were both open ones ; and to this
John alluded in his closing remark.
" John," said I, counting out fifty bullets and
laying them on the bottom of the boat within
easy reach, " there are fifty bullets ; and if you
say the word, shower or no shower, we '11 give that
old loon a lively time before we strike the carry."
" Well," said John as he ran his eye over the
western heavens, now black as night, save when a
bright flash clove the darkness or leaped crinkling
along the inky mass, " let 's give her a try. We
shall have an hour, anyway, before the rain reaches
us, and I would like to see that loon in the bottom
of the boat."
1U8 ADVENTUIIKS IX THi: WILDERNESS.
Dipping his paddle into the water with a strong
sweep, he turned the bow of the light boat about,
and started toward the bird. Light as a cork the
loon sat upon the water, some sixty rods away, its
neck, marked with alternate rings of white and
black, proudly arched, and almost at every breath
sending forth its clarion cry, as if in boastful chal-
lenge.
" Sound away, you old pirate you ! " exclaimed
John, as he swept along ; " we '11 make you shorten
your neck, and sit lower in the water before we
are through with you."
And e^'en as he spoke the bird settled slowly
down, until nothing but a line of feathers lay along
the water, and the (piick, restless head, with its
sharp-pointed bill, was barely above the surface.
" See her," said John ; " I warrant she has smelt
powder and heard the whistle of lead before tliis.
I wish she did n't know quite so much, or else that
that cloud would pass back of the mountains."
The plan proposed was to keep her imder wa-
ter, gi^■ing her no time to rest after her long dives,
and so tire her out that she would be forced to rise
often to the surface to breathe. Before we had
come witliin forty rods the loon went under.
" Now," shouted John, as he shot the boat to-
ward the wake, " the Lord only knows where she '11
come up ; but we will take that swirl of water for
our centre, and, when she breaks, you show her
what she may expect."
LOON-SHOOTING IN A THUNDER-STORM. 1U9
" There she rises," I exchiinied, as we swept over
the wake. " Steady with your paddle, there " ; and
as I spoke, catching the line of feathers along the
sights, I launched the bullet toward her.
" Well done ! " said John, as the spray made by
the smitten water broke over her webbed feet,
jerked out of the lake by her frantic effort to get
under ; " load quick, and save the other barrel for
emergencies."
After some twenty shots she began to come more
quickly to the surface ; and as we took the wake
she made in diving for our centre, the circumference
described through her position when she arose grew
nearer and nearer to the boat.
" Now," said John, as the loon went under for the
twenty-fifth time, " when she rises again take her
before she shakes the water out of her eyes. I
saw the direction of the dive, and she will come up
in the line of that dead hendock there."
I fastened my eyes upon the spot, and, catching
the first rij)ple through the sights, the ball struck
above her back before a feather was in sight.
Whether the bullet had ruffled her plumage some-
what, or from some other cause, for the first time
she rose in the water and shook her narrow winus,
uttering a defiant cry.
" Steady there," I whispered hoarsely to John.
For an instant the tottlish boat, which the weioht
of my ramrod would jar, stood, held by the paddle.
110 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
as motionless as though embedded in ice ; and as
the sharp crack of the other barrel sounded, the
loon was knocked flat over upon her back.
" There, you old — "
I don't know exactly what John was about to
say, for he did not say it ; for as lie spoke the loon,
with a mighty splash, went down, leaving a hun-
dred feathers around her wake. The bullet had
rasped along her side, shearing off the speckled
plumage, but had not penetrated sufficiently deep
into her body to disable her. By- this time the
heavens, toward the west, even to the zenith, were
black as ink. The red lightning darted its zig-
zag course this way and that, amid the gloom;
white, fleecy clouds raced athwart the dark expanse,
and ever and anon a fierce whirlwind, in minia-
ture, would settle down upon the water, and spin
across the glassy bosom of the lake ; while the
thunder, peal on peal, crashed above the moun-
tains, until the very air and water shook and quiv-
ered at the shock. To a looker-on the scene would
have been grand in the extreme. Amid the gath-
ering gloom, now dense as twilight, the light boat
went moving hither and thither, now gliding straight
ahead, now swerving in lessening circles around the
spot of the anticipated rising, while above the crack-
ling thunder rose the clear report of the rifle, whose
barrels, choked with smut, and dangerously hot
from rapid firing, rang fiercely sharp, as if in angry
LOON-SHOOTIXG IN A THUNDER-STORM. Ill
protest at the abuse. The ghjom grew darker.
The wind, in quick, nervous puffs, broke over the
mountain, and where it touched the lake lifted
the spray high into the air. A few plunging drops
of rain smote the water and boat like bullets.
The hot lightning fairly hissed through the nnirky
atmosphere above us ; so sharp, so bright, so close,
that the lake at times seemed as on fire, burning
with a blue, ghastly light. The thunder was inces-
sant. The dwellers in lowland countries know
nothing what thunder is amid the hills. No single
clap or peal was there, but rush and roar continu-
ous, and crackling bolts and rumble and jar. Across
the lake, over our heads, the volleys went. The
mountain eastward, receiving a bolt against its
sides, would roll it back, while the mountain op-
posite, catching the mighty boom as players do a
ball, would hurl it sharply home. And so the wild
play went on. JNIountain besieging mountain, liill
pelting hill ; while we, amid the deepening gloom
and tumult, swept hitlier and thither, keeping sight
of the loon, whose rises were fre(pient and breath
nearly gone.
" John," said I, shouting so he could hear me amid
the confusion^ — " John, pull for the shore ; it 's
time to go."
" Give her o!ie iw^r?" said John ; " here she rises,
over your left " ; and as tlie smoke from the dis-
charge floated up, split by a gust, John shouted :
112 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" Eeady with your other barrel there. The loon
is tiring. I hear her blow when she conies up.
She can't stay under long. I '11 run you down
ujion lier soon. HEKE she is ! " he screamed,
" under your very muzzles ! "
I turned, and sure enough there sat the loon
within six feet of the boat, in tlie very act of shak-
ing the water from her eyes. The rifle lay across
my knee, the barrels in direct line with the bird.
Without lifting it, or moving an inch, I pulled,
and water, smoke, and feathers flew into the air
together. A loud '• quack " from the loon, and a
convulsive yell from John, his mouth opening and
shutting spasmodically as roar after roar of ahnost
hysterical laughter came pouring out, followed the
discharge. I was just fitting a cap to a freshly
charged barrel, when the loon broke the water
again at short range, her back nearly bare of
feathers ; and as she dived another tuft flew up,
cut by the passing ball, and John pronounced her
" nearly picked." But now^ the storm broke over
the mountain. The rush and roar and crash of
wind and thunder drowned the report, and only
by the flash might a spectator know I was firing.
The gloom grew^ thicker. A cloud settled over the
lake, and we were wrapped within its fleecy folds.
Only once more, as a flash clove through the fog, I
saw the loon, and fired. Then dense and dark the
storm swept down around us. AVild, fitful gusts
LOON-SHOOTING IN A THUNDER-STORM. lllj
tore through the air. The hghtning criukled through
the fog ; white patches of froth and splashing
drops of rain drifted over and fell into the boat ;
while, as a bass to the wild minstrelsy of Ijursting
bolts, the dull, monotonous, roar of the storm,
whose heavy-footed squadrons were charging over
the mountain's brow, rose with dread, auumentinu
grandeur. The quivering of the frail boat told me
that John was vigorously plying his paddle ; and
in a moment we shot into the lily -pads, and, pull-
ing our boat ashore, turned it bottom side up and
crawled under it, just as the grayish sheet of plung-
ing water swept over us, and the lioods came down.
There we lay, safely sheltered, regretting the
storm, and recounting the ludicrous passages of
tlie contest, until the M^ater, gathering in a pool
beneath the boat, saturated our gai'inents and
warned us to be moving. Suggesting to John that
"we had better not stay under that l)oat until it
floated off," we crawled out from under our tempo-
rary shelter ; which, John remarked, " had a good
roof, but a mighty poor cellar." Standing, as a pre-
liminary caution, long enough in the rain to get thor-
oughly wet, we prepared for the start. An uncut
carry for nearly two miles lay before us, the first
half of which ran directly through a swamp, now
filled to overflowing with water. We had a tough
experience in getting through, which the reader
will find described in the next chapter.
VI,
CROSSING THE CARRY.
" TOHN," said I, as we stood looking at each
I other across the boat, " this rain is wet."
" It generally is, up in tliis region, I believe,"
he responded, as he Aviped the water out of his
eyes with the back of his hand, and shook the ac-
cumulating drops from nose and chin ; " but the
waterproof I have on has lasted me some thirty-
eight years, and I don't think it will wet through
to-day."
" Well ! " I exclaimed, " there is no use of stand-
ing here in this marsh-grass any longer ; help me
to load up. I '11 take the baggage, and you the
boat."
" You '11 never get through with it, if yon try to
take it all at once. Better load light, and I '11
come back after what 's left," was the answer.
" I tell you," he continued, " the swamp is full of
water, and soft as muck."
" John," said I, " that baggage is going over at
one load, sink or swim, live or die, survive or per-
ish. T '11 make the attempt, swamp or no swamp.
My life is assured against accidents hj fire, water,
CROSSING THE CARRY. 115
and mud ; so here goes. What 's life to gloiy ? " I
exclaimed, as I seized the pork-bag, and dragged
it from under the boat ; " stand by and see me put
my armor on."
Over my back I slung the provision-basket,
made like a fisherman's creel, thirty inches by
forty, filled with plates, coffee, salt, and all the
impedimenta of camp and cooldng utensils. This
was held in its place by straps passing over the
shoulders and under the arms, like a Jew-pedler's
pack. There might have been eighty pounds
weight in it. Upon the top of the basket John
lashed my knapsack, full of bullets, powder, and
clothing. My rubber suit and hea\y blanket,
slung around my neck by a leather thong, hung
down in front across my chest. On one shoulder,
the oars and paddles were balanced, with a frying-
pan and gridiron swinging from the blades ; on
the other was my ritle, from which were sus-
pended a pair of boots, my creel, a coffee-pot, and
a bag of flour. Taking up the bag of pork in one
liand, and seizing the stock of the rifle with the
other, from two fingers of which hung a tin ket-
tle of prepared trout, which we were loath to throw
away, I started. Picture a man so loaded, forcing
his way through a hemlock swamp, through whose
floor of thin moss he sank to his knees ; or pick-
ing his way across oozy sloughs on old roots, often
covered Avith mud and water, ani,l slippery beyond
Z16 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
description, and you have me daguerreotyped in
your mind. Well, as I said, I started. For some
dozen rods I got on famously, and was congratulat-
ing myself with the thought of an easy transit,
when a root upon which I had put my right foot
gave way, and, plunging headlong into the mud,
I struck an attitude of petition ; while the frying-
pan and gridiron, flung off the oars and forward by
the moveiiient, alighted upon my prostrated head.
An ejaculation, not exactly religious, escaped me,
and with a few desperate flounces I assumed once
more the perpendicular. Fishing the frying-pan
from the mud, and lashing the gridiron to my belt,
I made another start. It was hard Avork. The
most unnatural adjustment of weight upon my
back made it difficult to ascertain just how fai
behind me lay the centre of equilibrium. I found
where it did not lie, several times. Before I had
gone fifty rods, the camp-basket weiglied one hun-
dred and twenty pounds. The pork-bag felt as
if it had several shoats in it, and the oar-l)lades
stuck out in the exact form of an X. If I went
one side of a tree, the oars would go the other
side. If I backed up, they would manage to get
entangled amid the brush. If I stumbled and
fell, the confounded things would come like a
goose-poke athwart my neck, pinning me down.
As I proceeded, the mud grew deeper, the roots
farth/ir apart, and the blazed trees less frequent.
CROSSING THE CARRY. 117
Never before did I so truly realize the aspiration
of the old hymn, —
" 0, had I the wings of a dove ! "
At last I reached, what seemed impossible to
pass, — an oozy slough, crossed here and there
by cedar roots, smooth and slippery, lay before me.
From a high stump which I had climl)ed upon I
gave a desperate leap. I struck where I expected,
und a little farther. The weight of the basket,
which was now something over two hundred
pounds, was too much for me to check at once. It
pressed me forward. I recovered myself, and the
abominable oars carried me as far the other way.
The moccasins of wet leather began to slip along
the roots. They began to slip Axry often ; and, at
bad times. I found it necessary to change my posi-
tion suddenly. I changed it. It was n't a perfect
success. I tried again. It seemed necessary to
keep on trying. I suspect I did not effect the
changes very steadily, for the trout began to jump
about in the pail and fly out into the mud. The
gridiron got uneasy, and played against my side
like a steam-flajjper. In fact, the whole baggage
seemed endowed with supernatural powers of
motion. The excitement was contagious. In a
moment, every article was jumping about like
mad. I, in the mean time, continued to dance a
hornpipe on the slippery roots Now I am con-
H8 ADVENTURES IK THE WILDERNESS.
scientiously opposed to dancing. I never danced.
I did n't want to learn. I felt it was wicked for
me to be hopping around on that root so. What
an example, I thought, if John should see me !
AVliat would my wife say ? What would my dea-
cons say ? I tried to stop. I coidd n't. I had
an astonishing dislike to sit down. I thought I
would dance there forever, rather than sit down, —
deacons or no deacons. The basket now weighed
any imaginable number of pounds. The trout
were leaping about my head, as if in their native
element. The gridiron was in such rapid motion,
that it was impossible to distinguish the bars.
There was, apparently, a whole litter of pigs in the
pork-bag. I coidd not stand it longer. T con-
cluded to rest awhile. I wanted to do the thing
gracefully. I looked around for a soft spot, and
seeing one just behind me, I checked myself. My
feet flew out from under me. They appeared to be
unusually light. I don't remember that I ever sat
down quicker. The motion was very decided.
The only difficulty I observed was, that the seat I
had gracefully settled into had no bottom. The
position of things was extremely picturesque.
The oars were astride my neck, as usual. The
trout-pail was bottom up, and the contents lying
about almost anywhere. The boots were hanging
on a dry limb overhead. A capital idea. I thouglit
of it as I was in the act of sitting down. One
CROSSING THE CARRY. 119
piece of pork lay at my feet, and another was
sticking up, some ten feet off, in the mud. It
looked very queer, — slightly out of place. With
the same motion with wdiich I hung my boots on
a limb, as I seated myself, I stuck my rifle care-
fully into the mud, muz/le downward. I ne\'er saA\'
a giin in that position before. It struck me as
being a good thing. There Avas no danger of its
falling over and breaking the stock. The first
thing I did was to pass the gridiron under me.
When that feat was accomplished, I felt more com-
posed. It 's pleasant for a man in the position I
was in to feel that he has something under him.
E\'en a chip or a small stump would have felt
comfortable. As I sat thinking how many uses a
gridiron could be put to, and estimating where I
should then have been if I had n't got it under
me, I heard John forcing his way, with the boat
on his back, through the thick undergrowth.
" It won't do to let John see me in this posi-
tion," I said ; and so, with a mighty effort, I
disengaged myself from the pack, flung off the
blanket from around my neck, and seizing hold
of a spruce limb which I could fortunately reach,
drew myself slowly up. I had just time to jerk
the rifle out of the mud and fish up about half of
the trout, when John came struggling along.
"John," said I, leaning unconcernedly against
a tree, as if nothing had happened, — " John,
120 ADVENTURES IX THE WILDERNESS.
put dv wn the boat, here 's a splendid spot to
rest."
" Well, Mr. Murray," queried John, as he
emerged from under the boat, " how are you get-
ting along ? "
" Capitally ! " said I ; " the Carry is very le^'el
when you once get down to it. I felt a little out
of breath, and thought I would wait for you a few
moments."
" ^Miat 's your boots doing up there, in that
tree ? " exclaimed John, as he pointed up to where
they hung dangling from the limb, about fifteen
feet above our heads.
" Boots doing ! " said I, " why they are hanging
there, don't you see. You did n't suppose I 'd
drop them into this mud, did you ? "
"Why, no," replied John, " I don't suppose you
wjuld; but how about this?" he continued, as
he stooped down and pulled a big trout, tail fore-
most, out of the soft muck ; " how did that trout
come there ? "
" It must have got out of the pail, somehow,"
I responded ; " I thought I heard something drop,
just as I sat down."
" What in thmider is that, out there ? " ex-
claimed John, pointing to a piece of pork, one
end of which was sticking about four inches out
of the water ; " is that pork ? "
" Well, the fact is, John," returned I, speaking
CROSSING THE CARRY. 121
M'itli tlie utmost gravity, and in a tone intended to
suggest a mystery, — " the fact is, John, I don't
(|uite understand it. This Carry seems to be all
covered over with pork. I would n't be surprised to
find a piece anywhere. There is another junk,
now," I exclaimed, as I plunged my moccasin into
the mud and lacked a two-pound bit toward him ;
" it 's lying all round here, loose."
I thought John w^ould split with laughter, but
my time came, for as in one of his paroxysms he
turned partly around, I saw that his back was
covered with mud clear up to his hat.
" Do you always sit down on your coat, John,"
I inquired, " when you cross a Carry like this ? "
" Come, come," rejoined he, ceasing to laugh
from very exhaustion, " take a knife or tin plate,
and scrape the muck from my back. I always
tell my wife to make my clothes a ground color,
but the color is laid on a little too thick this
time, anyway."
" John," said I, after having scraped him down,
"take the paddle and spear my boots off from
that limb up there, while I tread out this pork."
Plunging into the slough, balancing here on a
bog and there on an underlying root, I succeeded
in concentrating the scattered pieces at one point.
As I was shying the last junk into the bag, a.
disappointed grunt from John caused me to look
around. I took in the situation at a glance. The
6
122 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
boots were still suspended from tlie limb. The
paddle and two oars had followed suit, and lay-
cosily amid the branches, while John, poising
himself dexterously on the trunk of a fallen
spruce, red in the face and vexed at his want of
success, was whirling the frying-pan over his
head, in the very act of letting it drive at the
boots.
" Go in, John ! " I shouted, seizing hold of the
gridiron with one hand and a bag of bullets with
the other, while tears stood in my eyes from very
laughter ; " when we 've got all the rest of the
baggage up in that hemlock, I '11 pass up the boat,
and we '11 make a camp."
The last words were barely off my lips, when
John, having succeeded in getting a firm footing,
as he thought, on the slippery bark, threw aU his
strength into the cast, and away the big iron pan
went whizzing up through the branches. But,
alas for human calculation ! The rotten bark
under his feet, rent by the sudden pressure as he
pitched the cumbrous missile upward, parted from
the smooth wood, and John, with a mighty thump
which seemed almost to snap his head off, came
dowTi upon the trunk ; while the frying-pan, gyrat-
ing like a broken-winged bird, landed rods away
in the marsh. By this time John's blood was up,
and the bombardment began in earnest. The first
thing he laid his hand on was the coffee-pot. I
CROSSING THE CARRY. 123
followed suit with tlie gridiron. Then my fishing-
basket and a bag of IjuUets mounted upward.
Never before was such a battle waged, or such
weapons used. The air was full of missiles. Tin
plates, oar-locks, the axe, gridiron, and pieces of
pork were all in the air at once. How long the
contest would have continued I cannot tell, had it
not been brought to a glorious termination ; but at
last the heavy iron camp-kettle, hurled by John's
nervous wrist, striking the limb fair, craslied
through like a forty-pound shot, and down came
boots, oars, paddle, and all. Gathering the scat-
tered articles together, we took our respective bur-
dens, and pushed ahead. Weary and hot, we
reached at length the margin of the swamp, and
our feet stood once more upon solid ground.
At this juncture another cloud from out of the
west swept up the heavens, and its distended
borders, heavy with rain, parted, and down the
plunging torrents came. The wind, sweeping
through the lofty pine-tops over our heads,
sounded like the rush of airy squadrons charging
to battle. The lightning blazed amid the descend-
ing sheets of water, lurid and red, or shot its elec-
tric currents amid the trees ; while, overhead, peal
and boom and rattling volleys rolled and broke.
Forcing our way along tlirough spruce and balsam
thickets, and heavy undergrowth of deer-bush,
which flapped their broad flat leaves, loaded with
124 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
water, into our eyes, we came upon a giant pine,
which some descending bolt had struck, far up
amid the topmost branches, and riven to the
very roots. Huge slabs, twenty feet in length, and
weighing hundreds of pounds, torn out from the
very heart, thrown a dozen rods on either side,
and the ground strewn with yellow splinters, bore
palpable witness of the lightning's power. Paus-
ing a moment amid the wreck and ruin, look-
ing into the yellow heart of that riven pine, weep-
ing great drops of odorous gum, how weak the
effort of man appeared beside the power of nature.
What is our boasted strength of brawn and mus-
cle compared with the terrific forces which lie hid-
den amid the elements ? And what is ours or
theirs beside the power of Him Avho holds their
violence in check, and uses at will the wild chem-
istry of the skies ?
At length (for aU journeys have an end) we
tore our way through the last opposing thicket,
and stood upon the coveted beach. The dreaded
Carry was crossed ; and, as if to reward our toil
and cheer our drooping spirits, even as we lay
panting upon the wet sands, the cloud above us
parted, and the bright sun came out, gemming the
dripping trees with jewels, and swathing the lake
in golden sheen. Patches of fleecy fog rose from
the shores, and, changing to yellow mist as the
sun warmed them, floated lazily along the moun-
CROSSING THI-: CARRY. 125
Iain's* side. Kindling a fire, we cooked some
coffe(-, watching, as we drank it, the bright ver-
milion bow which grew upon the eastern cloud,
until it spanned the horizon from north to south ;
from under whose arch of gold and azure the
heavy-tongued thunder rolled its dying cadences
t'a-' awa,y eastward over the Eacquette.
VII.
ROD AXD REEL.
" \ /r "^'' ^^UEEAY, wake up ! the pancakes are
-LVX ready l " shouted John.
Aroused by the familiar cry, I arose, and, walk-
ing down to the shore of the lake, evaded out into
its tide, and, plunging my head under water, held
it there for a moment, while the delicious sense of
coolness ran through my system ; then I raised it,
turning my dripping face straight toward the bright,
warm sun. the sweet experience of that mo-
ment ! How cool the water ; how fresh the air ;
lioAV clear the sky ; how fragrant the breath of
balsam and of pine ! luxury of luxuries, to have
a lake of crystal water for your wash-bowl, the
morning zephp" for a towel, the whitest sand for
soap, and the odors of aromatic trees for perfumes !
What belle or millionnaire can boast of such sur-
roundings ?
Fresh as an athlete in training, I returned to
camp and to breakfast. Breakfast in the wilder-
ness means something. No muttering about " those
miserable rolls " ; no yaAvning over a small strip of
steak, cut in the form of a parallelogram, an inch
ROD AND REEL. 127
and a half by three ; no lying about tawny-colored
water by calling it " coffee." No ; but up in the
woods you take a pancake, twelve inches across
(just the diameter of the pan), and one inch thick,
and go conscientiously to work to surround it.
You seize a trout ten or fourteen inclies long, and
send it speedily to that bourne from whence no
trout returns. You lay hold of a quart pan full
of licpiid which has the smack of real Java to it,
made pungent with a sprinkling of Mocha; and
the first you know you see your face in the bottom
of the dish. And the joke is, you keep doing so,
right along, for some thirty minutes or more, rising
from each meal a bigger, if not a better man.
The meal was finished. It did not take long to
wash the dishes ; and over the remnants of what
had once been a feast we sat in council.
" John, wdiat shall we do to-day ? "
" Well, I think," said John, " we '11 take some
trout. I told you, when we started, you should see
a three-pounder before we got back ; and here we
are within twenty miles of the Racquette, and my
promise unfulfilled. I know a little lake, hidden
away back of that hard-wood ridge yonder, which
is one huge spring-hole ; and when scouting through
here on my own account, some six years ago, I
took some fish from it such as you seldom see. I
doubt if there has been a fly on it since; and if
the breeze will freshen a little, you '11 have rare
sport."
128 ADVENTUKES IN THE WILDERNESS.
Soon after, John shouldered the boat, and we
started. Some forty minutes' tramp, and we
reached the shore and made our camp. From it
the scene was delightful. The lake was nearly
circular, some half a mile across, its waters deep
and clear. Into it, so far as we could see, no water
came ; out of it no water went. It Mas, as John
had called it, one huge spring-liole ; tlie mountains
on all sides sloped gradually up, an unbroken sweep
of pine and balsam, save where, at intervals, a
silver-beech or round-leaved maple relieved the
sombre color with lighter hues. Thus secluded,
seldom visited by man, the little lake reposed,
mirroring the surrounding hills in its cool depths,
and guarded safely by them. We stepped into
our boat and glided out toward the centre of the
pool. Not a motion in the air; not a ripple on
the water. At last the beeches along the w^estern
slope began to rustle. The mournful pines felt the
pressure of airy fingers amid tlieir strings, and
woke to solemn sound. The zephyr at length
reached the lake, and the cool water thrilled into
ripples at its touch ; while the pool, which an in-
stant l)efore slione under the smi like seamless
glass, shook with a thousand tiny undulations.
"Now," said John, "if the fish haven't all
drowned since I was here, you '11 see 'em soon.
Wlien one rises I '11 put you Avithin casting dis-
tance of the wake, and if he likes it he '11 take the
ROD AND REEL. 129
fly. If one take.s, strike hard ; for their jaw.s are
stout and bony, and you must hook them well or
you '11 lose them in the struggle."
"We sat and watched. " There ! " suddenly
shouted John ; " one is n't dead yet." And whirl-
ing the boat about, he sent it flying toward a swirl
in the water, some twenty rods away, made by a
rising fish whose splash I had heard but did not
see. We had traversed half the distance, perhaps,
and all alert I sat, holding the coil and flies be-
tween my fingers, ready for a cast, when, as we
shot along, a bright vermilion flash gleamed for
an instant far below us, and a broad, yellow-sided
beauty broke the surface barely the length of my
rod from the boat. The swoop of a swallow is
scarcely swifter than was the motion of the boat as
John shied it one side, and, with a stroke which
would have snapped a less elastic paddle, sent it
circling around the ripples where tlie fish went
down. Twice did I trail the flies across the circle
and meet witli no response ; but hardly had the
feathers touched the water at the third cast, when
the trout came up with a rush. He took the fly as
a hunter might take a fence, boldly. I struck, even
as he hung in mid-air, and down he went. After a
sharp fight of some ten minutes' length the trout
yielded, the fatal net enclosed him, and he lay flap-
ping within the boat. Thus five were captured in
little more than an hour's time, good two-and-a-
6* I
130 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
half-poiuid fisli each of tliem, — a string which a
man might contemjilate witli pride. \Ye paused
a moment to give John time to inspect the tackle
to see if it was all right. The trout had made
sad work with the flies. The largest and strongest
came out of their mouths bare to the shank. Five
ruined flies lay with the five captured trout on
the bottom of the boat.
" jNIr. Murray," said John at length, as he sat
looking at the mangled flies ; " have n't you some-
thing larger ? These trout are regular sharks."
" Nothing," replied I, running over the leaves
of my fly-book, " except these huge salmon-flies " ;
and I held half a dozen gaudy fellows out to-
ward him, the hooks of which were nearly two
inches in length, covered with immense hackle of
variegated floss, out of whose depths protruded
a pair of enormous wings, and brilliant with hues
of the ibis and the English jay.
" Let 's try one, anyw"ay," said John, laugh-
ino'. " Nothing is too big for a fish like that ! "
O O O
and he nodded his head toward a deep swirl made
in the water as a monstrous fellow rose to the sur-
face, closed his jaws on a huge dragon-fly that had
stopped to rest a moment on the water, and, throw-
ing liis tail, broad as your hand, into the air, darted
downward into the silent depths. " There," con-
tinued he, as he tossed the tuft of gay feathers
into the air, " that 's the first puUet's-tail I ever
ROD AND REEL. 131
noosed on to a leader. A trout that takes that
wiU be worth baking. Lengthen your line to the
last foot you can cast, and when a big one rises
I '11 put you within reach of his wake."
We sat for several minutes in silence, watching.
At last, some fifteen rods away, a magnificent fish
shot up out of the water after a butterfly which
chanced to be winging its way across the lake, and
missing it by only a few inches, fell back with a
sj)lash into the very ripple he made in rising.
" Now ! " shouted John, as he sent the light boat
skimming over the water, " give him the feathers,
and if he takes, sink the hook to the very shank
into his jaws."
I pitched the coil into the air, and by the time
it had fairly straightened itself out the boat was in
reach of the wake ; and, obedient to the quick turn
of the ^vrist, the huge fly leaped ahead. It had
not reached the surface by a yard, when the water
parted and out came the trout, his mouth wide
open, quivering from head to tail with the energy
of the leap ; missed, as he had before, and fell back
flat upon his side.
" Quick, quick ! cast away ! " shouted John, as
Avith a stroke of the paddle he sent the boat
sheering off to give me room for the cast.
Feeling that there was not an instant to lose, by
a sudden jerk I caused the fly to mount straight
up into the air, trusting to the motion of the boat
132 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
to straigliteu the slack as it fell. John understood
the motion ; the boat flew round as on a pivot, and
glided backward under the reversed stroke. It
was well done, as only John could do it ; nor was
it a second too soon ; for as the tuft of gay plumes
alighted amid the ripples, the huge head of the
trout came out of water, his mouth opened, and,
as the feathers disappeared between his teeth, I
struck with all my might. Not one rod in twenty
would have stood that blow.. The hsh was too
heavy even to be turned an inch. The line
sung, and water flew out of the compressed
braids, as though I had sunk the hook into an
oak beam.
Eeader, did you ever land a trout ? I du not
ask if you ever jerked some poor little fellow out
of a brook three feet across, with a pole six inches
ai'ound at the butt, and so heavy as to require both
hands and feet well braced to hold it out. Xo,
that 's not landing a trout. But did yon ever sit in
a boat, with nine ounces of lance-wood for a rod,
and two hundred feet of braided silk in your
double-acting reel, and hook a trout whose strain
brought tip and butt together as you checked him
in some wild flight, and tested your quivering line
from gut to reel-knot ? No one knows what game
there is in a trout, unless he has fought it out,
matching such a rod against a three-pound fish,
with forty feet of water underneath, and a clear,
ROD AND REEL. 133
unimpeded sweep around him ! Ah, then it is
that one discovers what will and energy lie with-
in the mottled skin of a trout, and what a mir-
acle of velocity he is when roused. I love the
rifle, and I have looked along the sights and held
the leaping blood back by an effort of will, steady-
ing myself for the shot, when my veins fairly
tingled with the exhilarating excitement of the
Dioment ; bvit if one should ask me what is my
conception of pure physical happiness, I should
assure liim that the highest bodily beatitude I
ever expect to reach is, on some future day, when
the clear sun is occasionally veiled by clouds, to
sit in a boat once more upon that little lake, witb
John at the paddle, and match again a Conroy
rod against a three-pound trout. That 's what I
call happiness !
Well, as I said, I struck ; and, as we afterwards
discovered, the huge salmon-hook was buried to
the shank amid the nerves which lie at the root of
a trout's tongue. Then came a fight for the mas-
tery such as ne^'er before had I waged with any-
thing that swims. Words should have life in them
to depict the scene. Quick as a flash, before I
had fairly recovered my balance, partially lost by
the energy with which I struck, the trout started,
and before I could get a pressure upon the line,
not twenty yards were left on the reel. A cpiick
stroke from John, and the boat shot one side ; and
134 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
bearing stoutly on him, tasking the rod to the last
ounce of resistance, I slowly swayed him about
and recovered a little slack. After a few short
sweeps he doubled on the line and shot straight
for the boat as an arrow from a bow.
" Double, and be hanged to you ! " shouted John,
as he shied the light shell to one side and swung it
round so as to keep me facing the fish. " If you
get under this boat it will be because this paddle
breaks."
Failing in his attempt to run under us, he dove
to the bottom. " Let him rest a moment," said
John ; " recover your line ; you '11 need it all wdien
he rises. He 's big and ugly, and his next rush
will be like lightning."
After I had stowed away some forty yards of
line upon the reel, winding it on hard and evenly,
so that it would render well, I began to feel of the
fish. The first pressure elicited only a shake. At
the next he described a circle, still keeping to
the bottom, then came again to a stand-still. He
acted ugly. I felt that, when the rush came, it
would try nerve and tackle alike. Enjoining Jahn
to watch the fish and favor me all he could, and
by no means to let him pass under the boat, I
gave a quick, sharp jerk. My arm was still in
the air and the rod unstraightened, when I caught
a gleam far down below me, and before I had time
to wink the huge fellow parted the water almost
ROD AND REEL. 135
mthin reach of my arm, and when high np in
mid-air he shook himself, the crystal drops wei'e
flung into my very face. Perliaps I shall live long
enough to forget the picture, as that trout for
an instant hung in the air, his hlue back and
azure sides spotted with gold and agate, his
fins edged with snowy white, his eyes protruding,
gills distended, the leader hanging Irom his jaM's,
while a shower of pearly drops were shaken from
his quivering sides. He fell ; but while still
in air the Ijoat glided backward, and when he
touched the water I was thirty feet away and ready
for his rush. It came. And as he passed us,
some forty feet oft', he clove the water as a bolt
from a cross-bow might cleave the air. Possibly
for five minutes the frenzy lasted. Not a word
was uttered. The whiz of the line througli the
water, the whir .of the flying reel, and an occa-
sional grunt from John as the fish doubled on the
boat, were the only sounds to be heard. "When,
suddenly, in one of his wildest flights, the terribly
taxed rod straightened itself out with a spring,
the pressure ceased, the line slackened, and the
fish again lay on the bottom. AViping the sweat
from my brow, I turned to John and said, " AVhat
do you think of that ? "
"•^Ir. Murray," replied John, laying the paddle
down and drawing tlie slee^'C of his woollen shirt
across his forehead, l)ead(^.d with perspiration, —
136 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" Mr. Murray, that fish is ugly ; if he should get
the line over his back, he 'd sniasli the rod like a
pipe-stem ! "
" He won't get it over his back," replied I.
" Eeady with your paddle ; he 's getting too much
breath."
" But I say," said John, looking affectionately
at tlie rod as he took up the paddle ; " if I was in
your place, and he did get the line over liis shoul-
der, I would part my tackle before I smashed that
rod."
" I won't do either, John " ; and as I answered I
gave a jerk, and the trout started again. But why
repeat ? Why tell of flights and rushes which
followed ? Twice did he break the surface a luin-
dred feet away, flinging himself out like a black
bass. Once did he partially get the leader over his
back and dashed away like lightning ; while John,
anxious to save so true a rod from ruin, shouted
to me, " Part the gut ! " But who ever knew a
fisherman, when his blood is up, refuse a risk to
save the game ? I screamed to John to shoot the
boat one side ; and when the last foot of silk was
given I advanced the butt. The heavy fish and
pliant rod were pitted one against the other.
Three days later, in another struggle, the old rod
parted ; but this time it triumphed. For a mo-
ment the quivering tip rattled upon the bars of
the reel. The fish struggled and shook himself.
' '"" % ' 1 iiUillii||k
ROD AND REEL. id 7
but the tenacious fibres would not part. He ceased
to battle, came panting to the surface, and rolled
over upon his side. The boat shot to\A^ard him,
and as it glided by John passed the landing-net
beneath him, and the brave fighter lay upon the
bottom board. His tail, across its base, measured
five inches ; and his length from tip to tip was
seventeen inches and three quarters !
" John," I said, twisting round in my seat and
facing him, — " John, I should have lost that fish
or smashed the rod, if it had not been for your
paddle."
" Of course, of course," replied John ; " that 's
my business. Those fly-rods are delicate things.
Like women, they should n't be put to heavy work
if you can help it, but they are able to bear a
heavy strain if necessary. But with all I could
do I thought it was gone once. I don't think I
ever came so near breaking this paddle as on that
last sweep. It made my flesh creep to hear the
old rod creak. I really believe my own back
would have snapped if it had parted."
We had captured six trout in two hours, wliose
average length was sixteen inches and a half. I
asked John if we should take another.
" I don't think it will be sin to take one more,"
he responded. " I saw a tail show itself out there,"
— and he nodded over his left shoulder, — " which
looked like a lady's fan. If there is a larger trout
138 AD VENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
than that last one lying anywhere about this pond,
I would like to see him " ; and as he spoke he
swept his paddle through the water, and the boat
started. I looked at my fly. The teeth of the
trout had torn the hackle half away, and shorn
off from the body one gaudy wing. An exclama-
tion from John started me. The fish liad risen
again. I too saw his tail as he disappeared, and it
was as broad as a fan.
" Mr. Murray," exclaimed John, " that fish is the
biggest trout I ever saw." 'T is full two feet long.
I saw him fair, broad side on. His mouth was
like a bear-trap. Eeady for a cast. Send the fly
straight for the centre of the wake, and if he
takes, strike like thunder ! "
John was evidently getting excited, and the
glimpse I had of the trout had thrilled me as
the blast of a bugle might thrill a warrior har-
nessed for battle. The boat was forty feet away
when the tuft of gay plumes, mangled but still
brilliant, floated downward, and lighted amid the
glistening bubbles. I had not trailed it a yard
wlien a gleam of blue and yellow passed me, and
with a splash and plunge which threw the water
in silvery spray high into the air, the trout broke.
I saw the feathers disappear wdthin his mon-
strous jaws, and, lifting myself involuntarily half
off my seat, I struck. I think John was con-
vinced that I struck hard enough that time, for
ROD AND REEL. 139
the strong nine-foot leader parted under the quick
stroke, and down into the depths went the trout,
with leader and flies streaming from his nioutli.
" Well," said John, as I swung myself around
so as to face him, " for twenty-seven years I 've
boated up and down the waters of this wilderness,
and rarely will you strike a lake or stream, from
the Horican to the St. La^vi-ence, above whose sur-
face I have not seen fish leap ; but never before
this day have I seen, on lake or stream, a spotted
trout as large as that which has just carried liy
and leader to the bottom. Well, let him go," he
continued ; " he '11 manage, some way, to get that
hook out of his jaw, and live to take another tiy.
And you and I will build our camp-fire some even-
ing next summer upon the shore of this pond
again ; and when the sun comes over those pines
there, I '11 warrant we '11 find the old fellow active
as ever."
So speaking, he turned the boat about, and
headed toward the camp. That afternoon we lay
on the beach and watched the leaping trout
sporting before us ; or gazed, dreaming of absent
friends, into the deep blue sky, across whose ceru-
lean dome the snow-wliite clouds drifted, urged
silently onward by the pressure of invisible cur-
rents. Tlie sun at last withdrew his beams. One
moment, and the pines that crested the western
slope were all ablaze. The next, gloomy and
140 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
dark tkey stood, their dense and sombre foliage
unlighled by a ray. The shadows deepened. The
ripple left the lake, and its unruftied surface
stretched from shore to shore like a sea of glass.
One by one the stars came out in quick succes-
sion. The waters contended in rivalry with the
skies, and every star which shone in the heaven
above shone in the depths below. Thus we sat
and saw dark-featured but brilliant Night succeed
to the throne of blond and gentle Day. Suddenly,
breaking the profound silence, the solemn hoot of
an owl echoed through the forest. It was an-
swered in a moment by the prolonged howl of a
wolf, hunting amid the hiUs far to the north.
Throwing some huge logs on the fire, and wrap-
ping our blankets around us, we stretched our-
selves beside the blaze, and, with malice in our
hearts toward none, sank peacefully to our night's
-epose.
VIII.
PHANTOM FALLS.
" T OHN," I exclaimed, as I stood emptying the
I water out of my boots, — " John, I will surely
write an account of this night's adventure."
" No one will believe you if you do," replied he.
" If it was not for this water," he continued, as he
gave his soaked jacket a wring with Ijoth hands, " I
should doubt it myself, and declare that we have
only been dreaming, and had not shot two miles of
those rapids to-night, nor dragged our boat from
under the suction of Phantom Falls."
" I do not care whether people believe it or not,"
I replied. " There lies your broken paddle," — and I
pointed to the piece of shivered ash, — " and there
you stand, wringing the water of the rapids from
yoiu' jacket, and we know that something more
than human has now for two nights appeared off
our camp, and that we did, two hours ago, take
boat and follow it until it vanished into mist ; and
I shall tell the story of what we have seen and
done, not expecting any one will believe it."
Gentle reader, I keep the promise made to John,
as we stood by our camp-fire under the pines, and
142 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
advise you to believe no more of it than you see
fit. Perhaps the reading mil serve to entertain a
circle of friends some winter evening, when the
wind moans dismally without, as the writing will
rest him who, in front of a glowing grate, on a
December night, for his own amusement even
more than for your own, tells you the story of
PHANTOM FALLS.
" John," said I, " since eight o'clock we have
made good forty miles, and my fingers are so stiff
that I can scarcely unclasp them from this padcUe-
staff. Let us make camp before the sun goes
down."
" Well," replied he, " fifteen years ago I camped
one night by that big rock there at the mouth of
the rapids, and I would like to see how the old
camp looks, for I saw something there that night
that I could not account for ; I will tell you about
it after supper to-night."
Of course I assented, and bent myself to the
paddle with renewed energy.
We were in the heart of the wilderness, where
even trappers seldom penetrated. For fifty miles
on either side not even the smoke of a hunter's
cabin colored the air. For weeks I had not seen a
human face or heard a human voice other than our
PHANTOM FALLS. 143
own. Day after day we had heen pushing our
light, narrow shell up unexplored creeks, building
our fire each night on the shore of some lake or
pond where it is doubtful if fire was ever kindled
before. As we proceeded down the lake, the roar
of the rapids came more and more distinctly to our
ears, and as the shores converged the boat began
to feel the action of the water beneath it, where
were the beoinnins^s of the current. As John felt
the movement, he lifted his oars, and, laying them
carefully along the bottom of the boat, pointed
toward a huge pine that stood to the west of
a projection of land along tlie other side of which
rushed the rapids. Understanding the motion, I
turned the bow of the boat toward the tree, and
then, with easy stroke, urged it along.
"How well I remember the night I camped
here," said John, speaking half to liimself. " How
naturally that old pine looks, and the three hem-
loclts on the point, and the rock against which I
built my fire. I wonder if the old story is true,
and if I did see her, or whether it was only a
dream ! "
By this time the boat had run into a little
notch or bay, and a few sharp strokes sent it to
the shore with a force that urged it half its length
up over the yielding sand. We stepped to the
beach.
Supper having been prepared and eaten, we
144 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
threw some heavy logs upon the fire, and, reclining
upon our blankets, gazed off over the lake. Tiic
moon was nearly at the full. Her rounded or!)
was just appearing above the eastern mountains,
and across the tranquil water she poured her pure
white radiance. The lake lay motionless ; not a
wave, not even a ripple, broke the smooth surface.
Above, the sky was cloudless. Suspended in
the still ether, a few of the larger stars strug-
gled for existence. Weak and vain such rivalry !
for the queen of night held open audience, and
their lesser lights paled in her more brilliant pres-
ence. The woods were dumb. Silence brooded
in the heavy pines and amid the darker firs.
The balsams, thraugh their spear-like stems, yield-
ed their fragrance upon an air too motionless to
waft it. Even the dull roar of the rapids was so
even in tone, that, instead of disturbing, it seemed
rather to deepen the all-pervading silence.
" Mr. Murray," said John, at length, " do you
know that we are camped on haunted ground ? "
" Haunted ground ! " I returned, raising myself
upon my elbow, and turning toward him. " Wliat
do you mean ? You don't believe in ghosts, do
you ? "
" Well, I don't know," replied John, " what to
believe ; but some of the old trappers tell queer
stories about this place, and I know that, just
fifteen years ago this month, I made my camp
PHANTOM FALLS. 145
under this very pine, and that during the night
I saw something off the camp which was n't
human ! "
" So that was wliat you were muttering about,
was it, John, when we were running in ? " I re-
sponded. " Give us the story, as you promised ; this
is the \'ery night and phice to hear a ghost-story.
I can ahnost catch the soft, cat-like tread of old
Indian warriors gliding through the shadows, and
the dip of unseen paddles along the motionless
water. So go ahead, Jolm ; give us the whole
story, and take your own time for it."
" Well, it won't take long," replied John ; " and I
would like to know what you think of it, anpvay.
The story which the old trappers tell is this : —
" ' The tribe of Indians that once hunted around
the shores of this lake, and over these mountains,
was called the Neamski. It was a branch of
the great Huron family, and their chief was
Xeosko, which means thunder-cloud, or some such
thing. Well, this chief had a daughter, Wisti by
name. The French called her the Balsam, because
of the richness of her dark beauty. This girl fell
in love with a young Frenchman, a Jesuit priest,
whom the missions in Canada had sent down to
this tribe to convert them. Her love, it seems,
was returned with ardor, and here in this little
cove they were wont to hold their nightly tryst.
At last the young priest, impelled by his passioi'
146 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
for the girl, determined to visit Montreal, get dis-
charged by liis superiors from the service, return
for his mistress, and, striking through the lakes
eastward, reach Albany, where he could embark for
France. He left in the early spring, with the un-
derstanding that he would meet her at this spot on
a certain night in June. For some reason, per-
haps because he could not get a release, perhaps
piety prevailed at last over love, or, more probable
still, because he was ambushed on his journey
by hostile Indians and killed, he never returned.
Night after night, as the story runs, Wisti would
fcake her canoe, paddle to this point, where, not
finding her lover, she would return dejected to her
father's camp. She had many lovers, of course.
Chiefs from near and far, even from the big lakes,
came seeking her hand. She refused each and all.
In vain her father threatened, her relations urged,
her tribe insisted. To every suitor she returned
the same answer : " My heart is far away in the
North, and w^ill not come back to me." A year
came and went. The snow for a second time melt-
ed from the mountains, and the ice deserted the
streams. Her lover had been sick, she said to her-
self, and could not keep his promise ; but now he
would surely come. Thus she kejDt her hope up
as she watched and waited. Night after night she
would visit this spot, only to be disappointed. The
burden was too heavy for her to bear. Tlie light
PHANTOM FALLS. 14?
deserted her eyes and agility her hmbs. With the
leaves of autumn she laded, and one September
night she launched her canoe and left her father's
camp. When last seen, she was directing her
course toward this point. It is possible that,
caught in the sweep of the rapids, she was swept
down, or else, broken in spirit by the continued ab-
sence of her lover, and weary of a life, every day of
which brought only a new and bitterer disappoint-
ment, she purposely paddled out into the current,
and sought, through the white foam and mist of
the rapids, a meeting with him who was, as she
believed, no longer on earth.' And they say," con-
tinued John, "that thrice each year, about this
time in June, there comes up out of the rapids a
canoe, which leaves, as it glides, no wake, urged by
a noiseless paddle, and in it a figure sits, clothed in
raiment whiter than the mist."
" Well, John," I said, after a slight pause, " is
that all ? Do you believe the story ? Did you evei
see her ?"
" Mr. Murray," said John, solemnly, " I do be-
lieve the story ; and I have seen her."
" Wliat ! " I exclaimed, now thoroughly interest-
ed ; " do you say that you have seen her, John ?
When, and how ? Tell me all about it."
" It was just fifteen years ago this moon," con-
tinued he, " and I was returning from a trip down
the Black River country, when, late in the evening,
148 ADVK''<TURES IN THE WILDERNESS
I ran my boat into this little bay. The moon, the
lake, the raoantains, all looked as they do at
this moment. Against this very rock I built my
fire, and, being tired, quickly dropped to sleep. I
lay that mght in the same position in which you
are now lying. How long I had been sleeping [
do not know, when a low, uneasy whine from my
hound, and his nose rubbing against my face,
Aroused me. Thinking that some wild animal
ilad approached the camp, I seized my rifle an<
peered steadily into the forest. Not a twi*
snapped. Twice did the dog walk around the
fire, lift liis nose into the air, and whine. I did not
know what to make of it. I was about to order
him to be quiet, wiien he started to his feet, took a
>?tep toward the lake, and then crouched, shivering,
to the ground. Quick as thought I turned, and
Vhere, Mr. Murray," said Ofohn, speaking in a low
but steady voice, and pointing with his brawny
hand toward the east, " there, just rounding tliat
point, I saw a sight which made my blood curdle.
A boat, or what seemed to l)e a boat, was there, —
% birch canoe, curved up at eitlier end, — and in it
•sat a girl, or what seemed a girl, all clothed m
white, and airy as a cloud. In her hand she grasped
a paddle, and her head was turned as in the atti-
tude of listening. Up to the very margin of tlie
water the canoe came, and twice dtd that face, or
wliat seemed a face, look steadily into mine. Then
PHANTOM FALLS. 149
v^ith a motion as wlien one shakes his head with
disappointment, it turned away, and the canoe,
as if impelled by a paddle, described a circle, and
glided, with the white form in it, around the
point."
John paused. That Ids narrative was honest I
had no doubt. E^'ery tone and syllable proved it.
I did not know precisely what to say, so Ave sat for
a while in profomid silence. At last John started
up, seized hold of the end of a large log which tlie
fire had burned through in the middle, ended it
over upon the pile of glo"\\ang coals, and as he
seated himself said, — •
" Well, Mr. Murray, what do you tliink of it ? "
Eising to my feet, I turned about so as to face
him, and responded : — •
"John, I do not doubt that you think you saw
what you say you did see ; but I do not believe that
you really saw any such sight after all. The fact is,
John, it was what the doctors would call a mental
delusion. You were very tired ; you had heard
the old story about the place — Be still, Rover,
will you ! " I exclaimed, interrupting myself to
touch the old dog with my foot, as he rose to liis
feet, lifted his nose into the air, and began to--'
whimper, — " it is nothing but a wolf or a wildcat,
you old fool you ; lie down. — The fact is, Jolni,"
I resumed, " you were very tired that night ; you
had often heard the story about the place ; you
150 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
were here all alone, and dropjoed asleep thinking
of it, and, being in a feverish state, you dreamed
that you saw — "
" Mr. Murray," whispered John, hoarsely, inter-
rupting me, " for God's sake, look there [ "
There was something in his voice, and in the
quick motion of his hand as he thrust it out
toward the lake, which startled me. Scarcely
knowing wdiy or wliat I was doing, I turned and
saw what was enough to quicken the hlood in
cooler veins than mine. Within a hundred feet
of the beach on wliicli I was then standing was
wdiat seemed at least to be a canoe, and in it a
form sat, bent slightly forward as in the act of
listening. A moment it sat thus, and then the
attitude became erect, and a face, as it were the
face of a girl inquinted on the air, looked directly
into mine. I neither spoke nor moved, but stood
steadfastly gazing at the apparition. I was not
frightened to bcAvilderment. All my faculties
seemed supernaturally acti^'e. I noted the form
of the canoe. It was as John had described it, —
curved up at either end, and delicately shaped. I
noticed the paddle, slender and polished ; the white
drapery, the shadowy face. I remembered after-
ward that the moonlight fell athwart the prow, as
it projected from the dark shadows of the pines
into the uninq)eded radiance. It may have been a
minute that the apparition faced us ; then, with a
PHANTOM FALLS. 151
movement of the head as wlieii one seeks in vain
for something not to be found, the paddle sank
into the water and the phantom boat, urged as by
a steady stroke which stirred no ripple, glided, with
the white figure in it, along the shore and around
the point, and then, heading toward the rapids,
vanished from sight.
It must have been several minutes before either
of us spoke. Then John broke the silence with
the words, " Well, Mr. Murray, what do you think
aliout it now ? "
" I think," said I, " that imagination has played
a trick on me, or else the old story is true and tliis
is haunted ground."
" Did you notice the canoe," continued John,
" how it was curved and ornamented at either end ;
and tlie paddle, what a delicate shaft it had ; and
the face, was it not as the face of a girl ? "
" Yes," I returned, solemnly, " it was as you de-
scribe it, John, save that it did not seem like a
real boat or paddle, and the face looked like the
outline of a face printed on the air, rather than a
solid head."
" So it did, so it did," responded he ; " but does
not the good Book say somewhere that we shall all
be changed at death, and that our bodies will not
look as they do now ? "
"Well, John, we won't talk any more about it
to-night," I replied ; " I want to sleep on it. Tos?
152 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
me my blanket there, and roll those two logs on to
the fire, and we will go to sleep. In the morn-
ing we will hold a council, and decide what to
do. If there is any truth in the old story, you and
I might as well find it out."
John did as he was requested, and, coming
round to where I stood, we wi'apped ourselves in
our blankets, and side by side, with Eover at our
feet, prepared ourselves for slumber. "What 's
that ? " I exclaimed, as a sharp, quick cry, fol-
lowed by a prolonged howl, came up from the
depth of the forest.
" A wolf has killed a deer," murmured Jolm,
" and he is calling in the pack " ; and then we slept.
The sun was high in the heavens before we
awoke. Our sleep had been a heavy, oblivious
slumber, which took as it were so many hours
clean out of our lives, — a gap across which M^as
stretched not even the filament of a dream by
which the memory could afterward connect the
lying dowm and the rising up.
" John," said I, when breakfast was ended, " I
tell you what we will do to-day. We will explore
the rapids and mark us out a course down as far
as Phantom Falls, and we will lay in wait off our
camp to-night, when, if the apparition makes us
another visit, Ave will run alongside of that canoe or
sliadow, whichever it may be, and solve the mys-
tery. Wliat say you ? "
PHANTOM FALLS. 153
" I say anything you say, Mr. Murray," prompt-
ly responded Jolm. " I never yet saw a canoe 1
was afraid to run my boat alongside of ; but wliat
shall we do if it goes from us ? Shall we give
chase ? "
" Certainly," I responded ; " and I don't believe
that an}i:hing short of a ghost can out-paddle us,
if we fairly settle ourselves doAvn to it."
" Nor I either," returned John, laughin<>' ; " but
what if it leads down the rapids ? I heard an old
trapper say that he followed it once to the very en-
trance of them, down which it glided and escaped
him."
"Well, as I said, John, we will explore the
rapids to-day, and map us out a course. The river
is high, and with the full moon we can easily run
them. It is a good mile, you say, before we reach
the falls, and it must be ghost or devil if, with a
good paddle at either end of this shell, you and I
cannot catch it in a mile race."
So it was arranged, and, taking up our paddles,
Ave stepped into our boat and started for the
rapids. In a moment we had turned the point and
shot out into the current, in which, with reversed
strokes of the paddles, we lield the light shell
stationary while we scanned the reach of tremu-
lous water below. No prettier sight can a man
gaze at, nor is there one more calcidated to quicken
the blood, than to see two men sit bareheaded and
154 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS
erect at either end of their cedar boat, paddle in
hand, in tlie sniootli water which gathers like a
pool at the mouth of rapids. And many a wild,
ringing cheer have I heard rise, mingling with the
roar of waters, from those who glided in their
skeleton boats over the verge, and passed from the
gazer's sight amid the foam and rocks below.
"John," said I, as we sat looking downAvard,
" it 's all clear ahead ; let her glide."
" All right," replied John ; " the waters are
high, and we shall have a clean run of it. Tlie
small rocks are covered, and the boulders we can
dodge. We will aim for the centre, and let the
current take us. I guess we shall ride, fast enough.
Only one thing before we start. AYe shall find
several small falls, which we must jump ; but
A\lien you hear the roar and see the smoke of
riiantom Falls, look well to your paddle and mind
A\hat you are about. It won't do to go over them.
Twenty-five feet are more than I care to jump."
" Exactly my sentiment," returned I, " but
which side are we to land ? If you and I slioot
this boat out of such a current as that," and I mo-
tioned downward, " it must be A\ith a stroke quick
as lightning and well together."
" I know that," said John. " I explored the
banks above the falls, one day, not knowing but
that I might be swept down some time, and about
thirty rods up stream, right abreast of a dead hem-
PHANTOM FALLS. 155
lock, tliere is a large whirlpool. "We will strike it
to the right, and when exactly abreast of the tree
we must jump our boat with one stroke under cover
of the bank. Do you understand ? "
" Perfectly," replied I.
" Eeady, then," said John. " Steady as you are.
Noiv r
At the word " Now ! " we lifted our paddles and
glanced like an arrow down the slope.
Three times that day we ran the rapids, and
each time without a mishap. Indeed, it was not a
difficult matter, as the water was very high ; and as
soon as we got accustomed to tJie extreme swift-
ness of the motion, we found no difficulty at
all in handling our boat. The most trying spot
was where we had to run out of the current, to do
which it was necessary that the stroke of our pad-
dles should be as one, and made with our united
strength.
" There," said John, as for the third time we ran
under the bank, " I am not afraid to run these
rapids night or day, even if chased by a ghost.
Come, let us go and see the falls."
Forcing our way through the underbrush, we
clambered down the bank, and, walking out upon
the shelving rock, stood where the mist and spray
fell on us. The falls were some twenty-five feet
high, perpendicular as the face of a wall. The edge
of the rock over which the water rushed must have
156 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
been notched or chipped ; for, starting from the veiy
rim of the cataract, spouts of water leaped into the
air, and, falling in feathery spray, formed a veil
through w^hich the dark green torrent might be
seen as it fell behind it. In one spot only did the
current flow unimpeded. Near the middle of the
stream, for some eight feet in width, the down-
rushing waters rolled to the brink and cur^'ed
over without jet or seam, smooth as a sheet of
glass. Underneath, the water was churned into
foam, boiling and tossing about in the wildest
confusion.
For several minutes we stood admiring the wild
scene in silence. " Mr. Murray," at length shouted
John, putting his mouth close to my ear, so as to
make himself heard amid the uproar, " if any poor
fellow should ever get caught in the rajjids alone,
and have to slioot the falls, he slioidd steer for tliat
smooth water, and, when on the very brink, put his
whole strength into one stroke of his paddle ;
and if he could project his boat so tliat, when it
struck, it would fall on the outside of that upheav-
ing ridge, he would be safe, but if he fell inside of
that white line of foam, he would be sucked unde?
the falls and torn to pieces on the jagged hot-,
torn."
" John," said I, " it could be done, I verily be-
lieve, as you say, but not one man in fifty could
hold his paddle or sit l)is boat steadily, gliding
PHANTOM FALLS. 157
downward to such a fearful leap ; but will and
nei^ve could do it, only Heaven keep us from try-
ing it."
" Amen," said John, " and yet there is no telling
what may happen to those who boat by day and
night up and down this wilderness as much as we
do ; and if you ever have to do it, Mr. Murray, steer
for that smooth water, and, as you love your life,
when on the brink, do as I have told you."
" Well," said I, changing the subject, " if that
poor Indian girl did really come down the rapids,
she must have met her death under these falls."
" Yes, that is why they call them Phantom
Falls," answered John. " An old trapper told me
once that he camped in the bend of the river there
one night, and as he was rebiulding his fire about
midnight, he saw a canoe and a Avhite form rise
slowly out of the mist and go sailing up the rapids.
He was so frightened that he took boat and pad-
dled all night down stream till he reached the set-
tlement."
" Well," said I, as we turned from tlie falls and
clambered up the bank, " to-night we will see if
the old story is true or not. Let us go to camp."
So saying Ave shoiddered our Ijoat and started for
the camp above.
It might have been eleven o'clock when, taking
lip our paddles, we stepped into our boat and
pushed off into the lake. We took our position in
158 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the shadow of a hemlock which grew on the very
margin of the bank, some fifty yards to the west
of the camp, and waited. I cannot say that I ex-
pected anything unusual would show itself I am
no believer in Spiritualism. I am not nervous by
nature. I never dream. It was these facts which
made it so hard for me to account for the apj)ear-
ance of the night before. The more T had reflected
the more had I been puzzled.
" John," said I, at length, speaking in a guarded
whisper, " this is the queerest ambush you and I
ever made."
" I was just thinking of that A^ery same thing,"
responded he ; " but I am very glad we are here.
For fifteen years I have wanted to do this very
thing, but never found any one to attempt it with
me. How do you feel ? "
" Never better in my life," I replied ; " although I
must say that I hope we may not run the rapids.
Moonlight is not sunlight, after all; and if you
should make a mistake, or — "
" Mr. Murray," broke in John, " did you ever
know me make a mistake ? Have not you and I
run rapids worse than these, time and again ? and
when have we taken anything but foam and spray
into our boats ? I tell you I am not afraid to run
the rapids ; only if we do go dowai, remember the
dead hemlock. It would n't do to go over the
faUs."
PHANTOM FALLS. 159
" Never fear on that point, John ; \yhen I am
ready to die, I shall choose another grave than
that boiling hell of water to sleep in. AVlien I
feel the tap of your paddle-staff" on the boat, I
will do my part; never fear."
Here the conversation ceased, and we sat in
silence, — a silence so profound as to be almost
painful. Ten, twenty, thirty minutes passed, and
nothing appeared. I grew impatient, incredulous.
I even began to feel that I Avould not like my
friends to know what a fool I was making of
myself " Jolm," said I at length, taking out my
watch, and holding its face up to a bright beam
of light wliich had found its way through the
dark foliage overhead, ■ — " John, it is five min-
utes to twelve, and we have made fools of our-
selves long enough. I don't think the Indian
girl will make her toilet under the fnlls to-niglit,
even if we should sit cramped up here till
morning. Come, shove into the — "
A low moan, almost Inimai) in its piteousness,
arose on tlie midnight air. Again the hound, l)y a
supernatural instinct, had divined the approach of
the spirit. I looked toward the camp. The dog-
sat f)n his haunches, facing the lake, his nose lifted
into the air. Outlined as he was against the fire,
I could see tlie uneasy tremulousness of his body.
He opened his moutli, and up through the stillness
s\\elled the saddest of all sounds, — the prolonged
160 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
cry of a hound, when, in unknown grief, he w^ails out
his feeling. At the same instant I felt the boat
shake. Never did I obey that signal to be on the
watch more quickly. Never was I signalled before
to look at such an ol)ject. A canoe, and in it a fig-
ure like a girl's, was in the very act of turning
the point. A living girl could not lla^'e kept a
steadier stroke, or urged a boat along more nat-
urally. And yet I felt that it was not flesh and
blood, nor a real boat, nor ashen paddle before me.
Onward the apparition came. Up to the xerj
border of our camp that spectral boat glided, then
paused. A human face could not have gazed more
searchingly into the fitful firelight ; a human form
could not have taken a truer attitude of search. I
saw a shadowy arm moA^e through the air, and
the formation of a hand rested for a moment on
the brow, — as when one shields his eyes, peering
into darkness, — then sank upon the paddle-staff,
and the boat moved forward.
That motion roused me. It started John also
An instant more and we had solved the mystery
But even as our boat glided out of the deep shadow;
the apparition turned her head full on us. I won-
der we did not stop. But, with that ghostly face
not fifty feet away, looking through the bright
moonlight steadily into mine, I gave a stroke which
bent my paddle like a sword-blade when you throw
your weight suddenly upon it. The deed was done.
PHANTOM FALLS. 161
Devil or saint, spirit .or flesli, we had her ! I thrust
my hand out to grasp the garments of the girl. I
chdclicd the emi^ty air ; the girl was gone full
twenty yards away, and speeding toward the point.
Not tluis were we to be eluded. John had not
missed his stroke, and, seizing my paddle again, we
sent our boat flying over the surface of the lake in
hot pursnit. Never, as I belie^'e, was boat of bark
or cedar sent faster over the water. Our paddles
were of choicest ash, smooth as ivory, three feet in
the staff and thirty inches in the blade, while the
shell that floated us turned barely sixty pounds, with
a bottom like polished steel, and so cork-like that,
1 jalaneed carefully at stem and stern, as it was now,
it seemed to rest upon, rather than part, the water
on which it sat ; and as we cast our utmost strength
into our paddles as only boatmen can, the lithe thing
fairly flew, while its delicate framework of cedar
roots and paper-like sides cpiivered imder the ner-
vous strokes from stem to stern. Around the point
we rushed, pursuer and pursued. Into the swift
ouction we shot almost side by side ; down over tlie
verge and through the Mdiite rift into the gloom of
overhanging pines, leaped a cascade, and with hands
and faces wet with spray, and garments flecked
with patches of froth and foam cast high over us as
we splashed through the rapid torrent, plunged
down the second reach and over a second fall
without losing a stroke. Still, just ahead, the boat
162 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
and spectre glided. At one moment entering into
tlie shadow of some dark pine or liemlock whicli
overhung the stream, her vliite form with tlie whiter
face looking back at ns would show an outline as
clearly marked as though of flesh and blood ; the
next, as it passed out of the gloom, it would melt
away into the moonlight, until it seemed only as an
airy formation, making no obstruction to the eye, —
a thing of mist and air. Once, as we leaped a fall, I
thought our race was over ; for even as we hung in
air, I reached to seize the phantom. I closed my
hand, but grasped the afmosjjhere. I felt it was in
vain. No mortal hand might ever touch it, or if it
might, the human senses were too gross to feel the
contact. At that moment the white figure arose,
and, standing erect, pointed with one hand down-
ward, and with the open palm of the other waved
us as in warning back. The moon shone full upon
her face. The look was sad, almost plaintive. An
indescribable expression of patience ]30ssessed it.
" Living or dead, form or spirit, the years have
brought no hope to you, poor girl ! " said I to
myself In a moment her posture changed. Her
hands dropped to her side. Her head was bent, as
though in the attitude of listening, down the stream.
Then, suddenly starting, she stood erect, and, fling-
ing her arms over her head with a gesture which
had in it both warning and supplication, she w^aved
us back. That instant I heard the roar of Phantom
PHANTOM FALLS. 1G3
Falls. I tapped the side of the boat with my pad-
dle-stalf. In a moment I felt an answering jar
from John, and knew that he had caught the heavy
boom which warned us to end the race. Down,
down we went, past rock and bulging ledge, swept
round a curve, and lo ! the hemlock was in sight.
Eio'ht cjlad was I to see it. It looked like a friend
standing there, leaning out, as it was, over the
swiftly gliding water, which liissed and c^uivered
under it. I saw the eddying pool which spun
abreast of it, and marked the white line of foam
fringing the black circle, and noted with joy how
surely John was sending the boat to the identical
spot from which, with one bra^'e stroke, we were to
jump her out of the fierce suction under the pro-
jecting banks. I had no thought of accident. The
faintest suspicion of failure had not crossed my
mind. With the thunder of the falls filling the air
with a deafening roar, barely thirty rods away,
with the siz-z of the current around me as we
dashed down the decline, I felt as calm and confi-
dent as though the race was over and we were
standing on the bank. Nearer and nearer to the
line of froth we flew ; straight as an arrow from the
l)0w the light boat shot. I grasped my paddle,
reaching my left hand well down to the blade,
holding it suspended and stretched far out ahead,
ready for the stroke. The moment came. I
dashed the paddle into the current and l»ent upon
164 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the staff. Even as I Lent to the stroke, the sound
of rending wood, a crash, a quick cry, piercing
sharply through tlie roar of the falls, smote upon my
ear. No words were needed to tell me wliat liad
happened. John had broken his j^^^ddle ! The
treacherous ash had failed him even in mid-stroke.
I did my best. I felt that life, sweet to all at all
times, doubly sweet as it seemed to me then, lay in
the strength of my arms. I threw the last ounce
of power I had into that stroke. The elastic staff
bent under the sudden pressure like a Damascus
blade. It held ; but all in vain. The suction was
too strong. It seized John's end of the boat,
whirled it round, and sent it flying out into the
middle of the stream. It is said that men grow
cool in danger ; that the mind acts with su})ernatu-
ral quickness in moments of peril. Be that as it
may with others, so it was wdth me in that fearful
moment. / hicw that tve must go over tlic falls. I
felt that John must make the awful shoot. I had
more confidence in him than in myself As the
boat spun round upon the eddy, I seized advan-
tage of the current, and righting it, directed the bow
down stream. Then, calmly turning in my seat,
reversed my paddle, and, liolding it by the blade,
reached the staff to John. He took it. Never
shall I forget the look of John's face as his fingers
closed on it. No word was uttered by either of us.
No voice might make itself heard in that uproar.
PHANTOM FALLS. 165
The moon made e^'erytliing almost as discernible
as in tlie day. He took the paddle, understanding
my thought, looking straight at me. Upon his
face was an expression, plain as speech might make
it, which said, " All that man can do, Mr Min^ray,
all that man can do." Then he passed the blade
into the water. I saw him take two strokes, steady
and quick, then turned. Dowu, down we went.
0, liow we shot along that tremulous plain of quiv-
ering water ! I felt the shell tremble and spring
as John drove it ahead. A joy I cannot express
thrilled me as I felt the boat jump. Hope rose
with every nervous stroke of that paddle, as it sent
lis flying toward the verge. No matter how we
struck, provided our projection carried us beyond
the deadly line of bubbles and the suction inward.
I held my breath, seizing the rim of the boat on
each side with either hand, and crouched low down
for the leap. The motion was frightfid. IVTy face
seemed to contract and sharpen under the pressure
of the air as I clove through it. How John could
keep his stroke, rushing down such a decline, was
and will ever be to me a matter of increasing won-
der. Yet, quick and smiting as his stroke was, it
was as regular as the movement of a watch. Down,
down we glanced, straight for the middle of the
falls and the smootli opening along the jagged rim.
Lower and lower I crouched. Quicker and quicker
jumped the boat, until the verge was reached, and,
166 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
quivering like a frightened fish, the shell, driven by
what seemed to be more than mortal strength, with
a mighty leap, sprang out into the air. So nicely
had long custom taught us to balance it, that, keep-
ing the inclination given it by the current, it clove
through the cloud of rising mist, passing clean out
of it before we touched the water ; for even as wc
hung above the abyss, I saw the deadly line was
passed and we were saved. The boat, keeping tlie
angle of declination, struck the water, and went
under like a pointed stake hurled from the hand,
and John and I were left struggling in the current.
We swam to the edge of the deep pool, and,
climbing upon the sloping ledge, lay for a brief
time motionless, and, side by side in the deep
shadow of the pines, our faces prone on our crossed
arms, filled with the sweet sense of life delivered,
and with emotions known only to Him witli
whom, with the roar of the falls, out of whose hell
of waters we had been snatched, rising around us,
we held communion.
At the lower end of the pool we found our boat
drifted ashore and John's broken paddle beside it.
Shouldering the shell, and striking eastward, we
soon came to the carry, traversing which we quickly
reached the lake, and launching out upon it, in five
minutes stood where the opening sentences of our
story found us wringing our clothes beside our
rekindled camp-fire. And there, reader, we will
PHANTOM FALLS. 167
leave you standing in fancy by the flickering fire-
light, with Eover at your feet and the lake shim-
mering, like a sea of silver under the white radi-
ance of the fuU-orljed and perfect moon, lying
tranquilly before you.
" Just one word, Mr. jSIurray, before you stop.
Did you rccdly see a ghost, and is there any such
place as Phantom Falls ? " To which query of
yours, gentle reader, pausing only one moment to
answer, before I quarter this Christmas orange, I
respond, " A>^lc John."
IX.
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT.
WE were camping on Constable Point, John
and I, in the summer of 1868, when the
following experience befell me. I tell it because
it represents one phase of Adirondack life, and be-
cause it will enable me to enjoy over again one
of the most ludicrous and laughable adventures
which ever assisted digestion.
It was the 8th of July, and a party of Saranac
guides, consisting of Jim McClellan, Stephen Mar-
tin, and a nephew of his, also a Canadian, name
unknown, at least unpronounceable by me, had
come up from the Lower Saranac, and were going
through to Brown's Tract for a party of German
gentlemen (and gentlemen in the best sense of the
word we afterward found them to be), who had ar-
ranged the year before to camp on the Eacquette for
a while. The guides were instructed to select and
build a camp as they came through, and then,
leaving one of their number to keep it, to come
after the party, who were to await them at Ar-
nold's. The spot the guides selected was only some
twenty rods to the north of us, and there they
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT, 169
pitched their tent, close by the little projection of
yellow sand which tlinists itself out into the deep
blue waters of the lake. The following mornincc
all the guides save the elder Martin started for
Arnold's, leaving liim to keep camp. Soon after
dark Martin, having put everything in order to
receive the party, dropped over to our lodge, in
the door of which John and I were sitting, smok-
ing our pipes, and chatting of this or that, as men
wall in the woods.
" Well," said I to Martin, as he came up, " I
suppose you have all your arrangements made for
the party to-morrow."
" Yes," returned he. " I don't know as I can do
much more ; only I do wish I could have a big
buck hanging by his gambrels when they come
pulling in. It would please Mr. Schack mighty
weU, I tell you. The fact is," he continued, " I
came over here to see if you did n't want to go
out to-night with your jack. We might take a
short stretch up Marion Eiver there, and I think
find a venison without much trouble." Of course
I was ready to go. Indeed, I was exceedingly
glad of the chance. The fact is, one deer a week
was all John and I could manage to dispose of;
and as I never permit myself to shoot more than
the camp can eat or give away, and as no parties
had as yet come in, I had very little sport, and
eagerl},'- hail(Hl the opportunity which Martin's
8
170 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
proposition gave me of " drawing it fine " on a
deer's head once more.
So it was settled that we should go jack-shoot-
ing up Marion Eiver ; and, after a few minutes of
further conversation as to our outfit, Martin left
to prepare his boat. I proceeded to discharge my
rifle, which was loaded with conical balls, in order
to recharge with round ones, which are far better
for short range and night work.
Perhaps, as a matter of interest to sportsmen,
and for the information of the uninitiated reader,
I should pause a moment in my narration to
describe, not only "jack-shooting," but also "my
jack."
Be it known to all, then, that a deer is a very
inquisitive as well as a timid animal. His curi-
osity is generally greater than his timidity, and at
the sight of anything new or strange he is im-
pelled by this feeling to inspect it. Hence it is
that, instead of flying from a blazing torch or
lighted candle at night, he is more apt to stand
stock still and gaze at it. Hunters avail them-
selves of this peculiarity, and hunt them by torch-
light in the night-time. Ordinarily speaking,
they take a piece of bark some two feet long by
ten inches wide, and, bending it into the shape of
a half-moon, tack it to a top and bottom board of
the same shape. Into this box of bark, shaped
like an old-fashioned half-moon lantern, tliey in-
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 171
sert one or more candles, and fasten it to a stick
some three feet in length. The stick is then stuck
into the bow of the boat, and the "jack" is ready.
The hunter, rifle in hand, seats himself close be-
hind and under the jack, and the paddler at the
other end of the boat or canoe. Thus equipped
they start out. The guide paddles quietly along,
until a deer is heard feeding, as is their custom
at night, upon the edge of the bank, or walking
in the water nipping off the lily-pads, which they
love exceedingly. The jack is then lighted and
the boat run swiftly down toward the deer. If
he is young, or has never seen a jack before, he
will let the boat (which he does not see, so intently
is he gazing at the light) come very near him,
and he is easily shot. If he is old and shy, it is a
far more difficult task to get near him. The de-
fects of this jack are evident. It is worthless on any
but a perfectly still night, for the least current of
air will blow the light out. It necessitates also
the scratching of a match previous to " lighting
up," and the noise incident to such an opera-
tion in the open air at night, when every object
about you is damp and wet, and in tlie presence
of game, does not tend to steady the nerves of
an amateur. It is also stationary, and if you
run past the deer, as you are liable to do, it is
dillicult to turn the light on him. If, further'
more, the deer is in motion in any but a straight
172 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
line from you, the jack is of no service at aU.
Now, when deer are scarce and shy, or the nights
windy, such a jack is almost useless, and the
sportsman is often driven to change his camp or
starve, although deer are all around him. Hav-
ing in seasons previous experienced the disad-
vantages of the old jack, I determined to in-
vent and construct one which should absolutely
overcome all these imperfections. This is wliat
I hit upon. I took a common fireman's hat, and,
having the rim removed, had the crown padded
with wadding, and lined with chamois-skin. I
caused a half-moon lantern of copper to he made
with a concave bottom which fitted closely to the
hat, and was fastened thereto with screws. Through
the top of the hat a hole was made large enough
for the burner to pass ; the lamp itself, containing
the oil, was fitted and held by brass studs to the
crown, between it and the head. In the back side
of the lantern was placed a German-silver reflec-
tor, heavily plated. The screw which lifts and
lowers the wick was connected witli a shank
that projected through the side of the lantern,
so that by a touch of the finger the light might
be let on or cut off. A large, softly padded throat-
latch buckled the jack firmly to my head. Ob-
serve the advantages of this jack over the old
style. Being enclosed by an air-tight glass front,
it might be used in a tornado. AVhen floating for
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 173
deer you coiild turn the wick so low down that
no light was visible, and when one was heard you
could I'un down toward him, and, with your finger
on the adjusting screw, turn on tlie light just when
you wanted it, and not an instant before, and this
too without a moment's pause. If the deer was
on the jump, it made no dift'erence. The reflector
was so powerful, that, if you turned the wick well
up, it mad; a lane some three rods wide and fifteen
rods long as light as day, and the jack being on your
head, the blaze was never off the leaping deer,
whose motion your eye would naturally follow,
and as your head turned, so, without thought or
effort on your part, turned the jack. Moreover, as
all hunters know, one trouble with the old style
of jacks is, that as you hold your rifle under it,
when taking aim, only the front sight is lighted
up ; and the rear sight being in the dark, you can-
not " draw it fine," but are ever liable to " shoot
over." Shooting with the old style is but little bet-
ter than guess shooting, any way. To be sure, you
might discard the rifle, and with an old blunder-
buss, charged with slugs or buck-shot, which scat-
ter twenty feet in going forty, get your deer. r)ut
this is simply slaughter, — a proceeding too shame-
ful for a sportsman ever to engage in. A man
who drops his deer witli anything but a single
bullet should be hooted out of the woods. Now
the jack I am descrilung, when placed firmly on
174 ADVENTURES FN THE WILDERNESS.
tlie head, casts its light from lock to muzzle, and
so enables the hunter to draw his bead as " fine "
as he may choose. Nothing need be said in favor
of this jack, — which is here for the first time de-
scribed, and thus made common property, — be-
yond the fact that, during the whole season in
which I hunted, mostly nights, I never marked a
deer with a bullet back of the ears, unless he was
on the jump when I shot. And time and again,
as John Plumbley and many friends can testify,
on nights good, bad, and indifferent, sitting, kneel-
ing, or standing in the bow of a tottlish boat, I have
sunk my bullet as squarely between the eyes as
one may place his finger. One word more touch-
ing the advantages of this jack. AU my readers
who have hunted deer at night know that fuU
one half of them started will go out of the river
on a jump, and, when ten or twelve rods from
the bank, come to a stand-stiU. Now this dis-
tance is too great for an old-style jack to illu-
minate ; and often the Imnter must signal his
guide to paddle on, when he knows the buck he
wants stands not a dozen rods away, looking
straight at him. Now, with the aid of a reflector,
my jack will throw a lane of light from fifteen to
twenty rods ; and if the deer stops within that dis-
tance, as three out of five will, and you hold steady,
he is sure to come into your boat. Never shall I
forget an old buck I laid out one night up South
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 175
Inlet, on the Eacquette, as he stood with his nose
stuck into the air and blowing away like an ani-
mated trumpet. It was just seventeen rods from
the bow of the little shell I stood in, and the lead
^ent in at one ear and came out of the other.
So much for jack-shooting and my jack. I
have been thus minute in my description, because
1 thought it might assist my brother sportsmen
to enjoy what I regard the most exciting of all
sport, — deer-shooting at night. I take this way
also of answering the many letters of inquiry con-
cerning my jack recently addressed me by gentle-
men who have heard of my invention from the
guides, and who would like to avail themselves of
it. It is rather expensive, but a sure thing, if
well made.
Well, to return to my naiTation. I was driving
the ball into the right barrel of my rifle when I
heard the soft dip of a paddle abreast of the camp,
and in a moment Martin stepped up the bank and
entered, paddle in hand, the circle of the firelight.
IVIany who read this may remember Martin, brother
to him of the Lower Saranac House ; but for the
sake of others, who have never seen him, I will give
a sketch of him. I recall him perfectly as he
stood leaning on his paddle in my camp that night.
A tall, sinewy man he was, in height some six feet
two, in weiglit turning perhaps one hundred and
seventy pounds, — every ounce of superfluous flesh
176 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" sweated " off his body by liis constant work at the
paddle and oars, which gave him a certain gaunt,
bony look, to be seen only in men who live the
hunter's life and eat the hunter's fare along our
frontiers. Yet there was a certain litheness about
the form, a springy elasticity in the moccasmed
foot, a suppleness of motion, which, if it was not
grace, was something next akin to it. His hair was
sandy, short, crisp, and curly. His shoulders were
brought the least trifle forward, as boatmen's gen-
erally are, and especially such as leave their boats
to follow, with cat-like tread and crouching pos-
ture, the trail. Pants and hunting-shirt of Scotch
gray ; a soft felt hat of similar color, and the inev-
itable short, thin knife stuck in a leathern sheath,
made up his outfit. A wiry, nervous man, I said
to myself, as I looked him over; none the less
nervous because a certain backwoodsman's indif-
ference and nonchalance veiled the dash and fire
within. A good guide I warrant, easy and pleas-
ant of temper when fairly treated, but hot and
violent as an overcharged and smutty rifle when
abused.
" Martin," said I, as I dragged my jack from
under a bag where it had lain concealed (for I
did n't wish every one to copy my invention the
first season), " what do you think of that ? " and,
touching a match to the wick, I lifted the jack
to my head and buckled the throat-latch.
JACK-SHOOTING IX A FOGGY NIGHT. 17*7
*• Well," said lie, after looking at it a moment,
•■■ that 's a new idea, anyway. Should n't wonder
if it worked ; but I have seen so many new-fangled
notions brought into the woods that were not
worth a toadstool, that I have about given up
ever seeing anything better than a piece of bark,
and a tallow dip, mean and tricky as that is."
" Well," said I, moistening my finger and lift-
ing it into the air, " if that current of wind comes
out of the north, we shall want something better
than a tallow dip to see through the fog with be-
fore ten o'clock."
" That 's the fact," broke in John ; " I saw, an
hour ago, by the way that hard maple brand
snapped and glowed, that it was getting colder. By
the time you reach the river the fog wall be thick
enough to cut, and the best thing you can do, both
of you, is to bunk in here with me, and help me
lessen this bag of ' Lone Jack.' "
" No," said I, " fog or no fog, we '11 go out. I
know how much it would please the party to-mor-
row to see a good buck hanging in front of the
camp as they come down the lake ; and, Martin,
if you will do your part at the paddle, I '11 show
you how Never Fail acts wlien a deer stands look-
ing into the muzzles " ; and I patted the stock of
my double rifle, of which it is enough to say that it
has " N. Lewis, Troy, N. Y.," etched on either barrel.
"Well," replied IMartin, as he turned toward
8* L
178 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS
the beach, " it 's thirty-five years since I raised the
first blister on these hands with a paddle-staff, and
though it is a mighty silent paddle that is usually
back of you, yet w^e Saranac boys don't admit that
any man in this wilderness can beat us in a still
hunt."
With this allusion to John's reputation at the
paddle, he headed his long, narrow boat out into
the lake, and steadied it between his knees until I
was seated in the bow ; then, with a slight push,
sent the light shell from the beacli, vaulting at the
same instant, with a motion airy as a cat's, into
his own seat astern.
Who that has ever visited the Adirondacks does
not grow enthusiastic as he recalls the beauty and
S(jlemn splendor of the night, as he has beheld it
while being paddled across some one of its many
hundred lakes ? The current of air which I had
noted at the camp, cool and refreshing after the
hot summer's day, was too steady and slight to stir
a ripple on the glassy water. The sky was in its
bluest tint, sobered by darkness. In the southern
heavens, and even up to the zenith, the stars were
mellow and hazy, shorn of half their beams by the
moist atmosphere through which they shone. A
few, away to the south, over the inlet of that
name, lying back of a strata of air saturated al-
most to the density of vapor, beamed like so many
patches of illuminated mist. But far to the north
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 170
and west, wlience at intervals a thin gleam of
lightning shone reflected from some far-off' nether
region, the low growl of thunder was occasionally
heard. Above, in the clear, cool blue, the star
which never moves, the Dipper, and countless
other orbs, differing in glory, revealed in sharp,
clear outlines their stellary formations. The wave-
less water was to these heavens a perfect mirror ;
and over that seamless surface, over planets and
worlds shining beneath us, over systems and con-
stellations the minutest star of which was visible
we softly glided. With bowed head I gazed into
that illuminated sea. I thought of that other sea
which is " of glass like unto crystal " before the
throne, and the glory which must forever be re-
flected up from its depths. "Is this the same
world of cities and cursing in which I lived a
week ago ? " I said to myself, " or have I been
translated to some other and happier sphere ? "
Around me on all sides, as I gazed, Night dusky
and dim sat on the mountains, and brooded over
the starry sea, and the all-enveloping silence of the
wilderness rested solemnly over all. As I sat and
mused, — yea, and worshij^ped, — memory stirred
within me ; the words of the Psalmist came to
my lips, and I murmured, " This is night which
showeth wisdom, and the melody of which has
gone out through all the world."
My meditations were somewhat rudely interrupt-
180 ADVKNTUKES IN THE WILDERNESS.
ed by the grating of lily -pads against the sides of
the boat. We had crossed the lake, and were
entering the river. My mood changed with the
change of locality. The lover of nature was in-
stantly lost in the sportsman, and as we shot into
the fog, which, lising above the river, from the lake
looked like a great fleecy serpent twined amid the
hills, eye and ear were all alert to detect the pres-
ence of game. But we were doomed to delay.
For nearly two miles we crept through the damp
and chilly fog, hearing nothing to interrupt the
profound silence save the occasional plunge of a
muskrat or the sputter of a frog skating along the
surface of the water. But all of a sudden, when
heart and ho]3e were about to fail, some distance
ahead of us we heard the well-known sounds,
k-splash, k-splash, and knew that a deer, and a
large one too, was maldng for the shore. Here
our adventures began. I signalled Martin, by a
desperate " hitch " on the thwart, to run the boat
at full speed toward the sound. He did. The
light shell shot through the fog, and when in
swift career struck the bank, bow on. Martin was
tremendous at the paddle, and a little more force
would have divided that marsh from side to side ;
as it was, the thin, lath-like boat was buried a third
of its length amid the bogs and marsh-grass. With
much struggle, and several suppressed but sugges'
tive exclamations from Martin^ we extricated th&
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 181
boat from the meadow and shoved out into clear
water. We had lieard nothing from the deer since
he left the river. Thinking that possibly he might
have stopped, after gaining the bank, to look back,
as deer often do, I rose slowly in the boat, turned
up the jack, and peered anxiously into the fog.
The strong reflector bored a lane tlirough the fleecy
mass for some fifty feet, perhaps ; even at that dis-
tance objects mingled grotesquely with the fog. At
the extreme end of the opening I detected a bright,
diamond-like spark. What was it ? I turned the
jack up, and I turned it down. I lowered myself
until my eyes looked along the line of the grass.
I raised myself on tiptoe. Xothing more could be
seen. " It may be the eye of a deer, and it may be
only a drop of water, or a wet leaf," said I to my-
self Still it looked gamy. I concluded to launch
a bidlet at it any^vay. Whispering to Martin to
steady the boat, I sunk my eye well down into the
sights, and, holding for the gleam amid the marsh-
grass, fired. The smoke, mingling heavily with the
fog, made all murky before me, while the explo-
sion, striking against the mountains on either side,
started a dozen reverberations, so that we coidd
neither see nor hear what was the result of the
shot. After waiting in silence a few moments,
hoping to hear the deer " kick," without any such
happy result, I told Martin I would go ashore to
load, and see what it was I had shot at. He paddled
182 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
forward, and, seizing the tall grass, while he forced
the boat in against the bank with his paddle, I
clambered up. Being curious to ascertain what
had deceived me, I strode off into the marsh
some forty feet, and, tm^iing up the jack, lo and
behold a dead deer lay at my feet ! " Martin,"
shouted I, " here the deer is, dead as a tick ! "
"Tlie d — 1!" exclaimed the guide from tlie fog.
" What did you say ? " again I shouted.
" I said I did n't believe it," returned Martin,
soberly.
" Paddle your canoe up here, then, you old scep-
tic, and see for yourself," I rejoined, taking the
deer by tlie ear and dragging him to the bank.
" Here lie is, and a monster too." Martin did as
directed. " Well," exclaimed he, as he unbent his
gaunt form from the curve into which two hours
of paddling had cramped it, and straightened him-
self to his fall height, until his eyes rested upon the
buck, — " well, ]\Ir. Murray, you are the first man
I ever saw draw a fine bead in a night like this,
standing in the bow of a Saranac boat, at the twin-
kle of a deer's eye, and hill. That jack of yours is
a big thing, and no mistake." By the time he had
finished, the boat had drifted off into the river, —
for the current was quite strong at that point, — •
and I was alone. I was just fitting a cap to the
tube of the recharged barrel, when I felt a move-
ment at my feet, and, casting my eyes downward.
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 183
I saw that the deer was in the act of getting up I
The ball, as we afterward discovered, had glanced
along the front of the skull, barely creasing tlie
skin. It had touched the bone slightly, and
stunned him so that he dropped ; but beyond this,
it had not hurt liim in the least. Quick as
thought, I put my foot against his shoulder and
pushed him over. " Martin," I cried, " this deer
is n't dead ; he 's trying to get up. What shall I
do?"
" Not dead ! " exclaimed he, shouting from the
middle of the river through the dense fofj.
" No, he is n't dead ; far from it. He is mighty
lively, and getting more and more so," I returned,
now having my hands full to keep the deer down.
" Come out and help me. What shall I do ? "
" Get hold of his hind leg ; I '11 be with you in
a minute," was the answer.
I did as directed. I laid hold of his left hind leg,
just above the fetlocks, and sprang to my feet.
Eeader, did you ever seize a pig by the hind
leg ? If so, multiply that pig by ten ; for every
twitch he gives, count six ; lash a big lantern to
your head ; fancy yourseK standing alone on a
swampy marsh in a dark, foggy night, with a rifle
in your left hand, and being twitched about among
the bogs and in and out of muskrat-holes, until
your whole system seems on the point of a sepa-
ration which shall send you in a thoiuiaud in-
18-i ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
finitesimal parts in all directions, like fragments
of an exploding buzz-wheel, and you have my
appearance and feelings as I was jerked about
that night amid the mire and marsh -o-rass, as I
clung to the leg of that deer. Now, when I fas-
ten to anything, I always expect to hold on.
This was my determination when I put my fin-
gers round that buck's leg. I have a tremendous
grip. My father had before me. With his hand?
at a two-inch auger-hole in the head of a barrel, I
have seen him clutch, now with his right, now with
his left hand, twenty-two house-rats as they came
darting out to escape the stick with which I was
stirring them up, and dash them dead upon the
floor, without getting a single bite ; and everybody
knows that a rat, in full bolt, comes out of a barrel
like a flash of lightning. I fully expected to main-
tain the idjnUj 2^rcsti(je for grip. I did. I stuck
to that deer with all my power of arm and will. I
felt it to be a sort of personal contest between him
and myself Nevertheless, I was perfectly willing
at any time to let go. I had undertaken the job at
the request of another, and was ready to surrender
it instantly upon demand. I sliouted to Martin to
get out of that boat mighty quick if he wanted to
take his deer home, for I should n't hold on to him
much longer. It took me about two minutes to de-
liver that sentence. It was literally jerked out of
me, word by word. Never did I labor under greater
JAGK-SHOUTLXG IX A FOGGY NIGHT. 18.J
embarrassment in expressing myself. In the mean
%v'liile Martin was meeting with dithculty. The
bank of the river was steep, and the light cedar
shell, with only himself in it, was out of all bal-
ance, and hard to manage. It may be that his
very strong desire to get on to that meadow
where I was holding his deer for him operated
to confuse and embarrass his movements ! He
would propel the boat at full speed toward the
bank, then jump for the bow ; but his motion
forward would release the boat from the mud,
and when he reached the bow the boat would be
half-way across the river again. Now Martin is a
man of great patience. He is not by any means a
profane person. He had always shown great re-
spect for the cloth. But everybody will see that
his position was a very trying one. Three several
times, as he afterward informed me, did he drive
that boat into the bank, and three several times,
when lie got to the bow, that boat was in the mid-
dle of the river. At last Martin's patience gave
way, and out of the fog came to my ears ejacula-
tions of disgust, and such strong expletives as
are found only in choice old Engiisli, and howls
of rage and disappointment that none but a guide
could utter in like circumstances. But human
endurance has a limit. I was fast reaching a
condition of mind when family pride and trans-
mitted powers of resolution fail. What did I care
186 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
for my father's exploit with the rats at the two-
inch auger-hole ? What did the family grip
amount to after all ? I was fast losing sight of
the connection such vanities sustained to me. I
was undergoing a rapid change in many respects,
— of body as well as mind ! When I got hold of
that deer's leg, I was mentally full of pluck and
hope; my hunting-coat, of Irish corduroy, was
whole and tightly buttoned. Now% mentally, I
was demoralized ; every button was gone from
the coat, and the right sleeve hung disconnected
with the body of the garment. The jack had been
jerked from my head, and lay a rod off in the
marsh-grass. I covdd hold on no longer. I would
make one more effort, one more appeal. I did.
" Martin," said I, " are n't you ever going to get
out of that boat ? "
The heavy thug of the boat against the bank, an
explosive and sputtering noise which sounded very
nuich like the word " damn " spoken from between
shut teeth, a splash, a scramble, and then I caught
sight of the gaunt form of ]\Iartin, paddle in hand
and hunting-knife between his teeth, loping along
toward me, through the tall, rank grass. But,
alas ! it was too late. The auspicious moment
had passed. My fingers one by one loosened
their hold, and the deer, gathering all his strength,
with a terrific elevation of his hind feet sent me
reeling backward, just as Martin, doubled up into
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 187
a heap, was about to aliglit upon his back. He
missed the back, but, as good hick would have it,
3ven while the buck ^^'as in the air, — the deer
going up as Martin came down, — the fingers of
the guide closed with a full and desperate grip
upon his tail. Quick as a flash I recovered myself
from the bogs, replaced the jack, which fortu-
nately had not been extinguished, upon my head,
and stood an interested spectator of the proceed-
ings. Now everybody knows how a wild deer
can jump when frightened; and the buck, with
Martin fastened to his tail, was thoroughly
roused. The first leap straightened the poor fellow
out like a lathe, but it did not shake him from his
hold. If the reader has ever seen a small boy
hanging to the tail-board of a wagon, when the
horse was at full speed, he can form a faint idea
of Martin's appearance as the deer tore like a
whirlwind through the tall grass. Blinded and
bewildered by the light, frenzied with fear, the
buck, as deer often will, instead of leading off,
kept racing up and down just within the border
of light made by the jack, and occasionally mak-
ing a bolt directly for it. My position was
unique. I was the sole spectator of a series of
gymnastic evolutions truly original. Small as the
audience was, the performers were thoroughly in
earnest. Had there been ten thousand spectators,
Uie actors could not have laid themselves out with
188 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
greater energy. No applause could have got anoth-
er inch of jump out of the buck, or another inch
of horizontal position out of Martin. Whenever,
at long intervals, his feet did touch the ground, it
was only to leave it for another and a higher aerial
plunge. Now and then the buck would take a short
stretch into the fog and darkness, only to reappear
with the same inevitable attachment of arms and
legs streaming behind. The scene was too ludi-
crous to be endured in silence. The desperate ex-
pression of Martin's face, as he Avas swung round and
jerked about, was enough to make a monk explode
with laughter wliile doing penance. I rested my
hands on either knee, and laughed until tears rolled
down my cheeks. The merriment was all on my
side. Martin was silent as death, save when the
buck, in some extraordinary and desperate leap,
twitched a grunt out of him. Between my parox-
ysms I exhorted him : it was my time to exhort.
" Martin," I shouted, " hang on ; that 's your deer.
I quit all claim to him. Hang on, I say. Save
his tail anyhow."
Whether Martin appreciated the ad\'ice, wheth-
er he exactly saw wliere the "laugli came in," 1
cannot say, and he could not explain. Still, I am
led to think that it was to him no trifling affair,
but a matter whicli moved him profoundly. At
last the knife was jerked from his teeth, either
because of the violence of his exertion, or because
JACK- SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. 189
he had inadvertently loosened his grasp on it.
Be tliis as it may, Martin's mouth was at last
opened, and out of it were projected some of the
most extraordinary expressions I ever heard. His
sentences were singularly detached. Even his words
were widely separated, but brouglit out with great
emphasis. He averaged about one word to a junij).
If another got partially out, it was suddenly and
ruthlessly snapped off in mid utterance. The
result of his efforts to express himself reached my
ears very much in this shape : " Jump — ivill —
you — be-e — damned — I 've-e — got — you ! I '11
— hold-d — ON — till — your — ta-i-1 — comes —
off-f. — Jmnp-p-2J — be d-d-damned — I 've —
got — you-u-u."
"\Mien the contest would have ended, what
would have lieen the result liad it continued,
whether the buck or the guide would have come
off' tlie winner, it is not easy to say. Nor is it
necessary to speculate, for the close was speedily
reached, and in an unlooked-for manner. The deer
had led off some dozen jumps out of the circle of
Light, and I was beginning to think that he had
shaken himself loose from liis enemy, when all at
once he emerged from the fog with jNTartin still
streaming behind him, and made straight for tlie
river. Never did I see a Inick vault higher or
project himself farther in successive leaps. Tlie
oaranacer was too much put to it to articulate a
Nvord ; only a series of grunts, as he was twitched
190 ADVENTURES IN THE WILUJ:RNESS.
along, revealed the state of his pent-up feelings
Past me the deer flashed like a feathered shaft,
heading directly for the bank. " Hang on, Martin ! "
I screamed, sobered by the thought that he would
save him yet if he could only retain his grip, — •
" hang to him like death ! " He did. Never did my
admiration go out more strongly toward a man than
it did toward Martin, as, red in the face and un-
able to relieve himself by a single expression, he
went tearing along at a frightful rate in full bolt
for the river. Not one man in fifty could have
kept his single-handed grip, jerked, at the close
of such a struggle as the Saranacer had passed
through, and twitched mercilessly as he now was
being through the tall l)Og-grass and over the un-
even ground. But the guide's blood was up, and
nothing could loosen his clutch. The buck readied
the bank, and, gathering himself up for a desper-
ate leap, he flung his body into the air. I saw a
pair of widely separated legs swing wildly up-
ward, and the red face of Martin, head downward,
and reversed, so as to be turned directly toward me
by the summersault he was turning, disappeared
like a waning rocket in the fog overhanging the
river. Once in the water, the buck was no match
for his foe. I hurried to the edge of the bank.
Beneath me, and haK across the river, a desperate
struggle was going on. Martin had found his voice,
and was using it as if to make up for lost time. In
a moment a gurgling sound reached my ears, and
JACK-SHOOTING IN A FOGGY NIGHT. Vd .
I knew that the deer's head was under water ; and
shortly, in answer to my hail, the guide appeared,
dragging the buck behind him. The deer was
drowned and quite dead. Drawing my knife across
the still warm throat, we bled him well, and, wait-
ing for JVIartin to rest hiinself a moment, slid him
down into the boat and stretched him at full
length along the bottom. Taking our places at
either end, and, lifting our paddles, we turned our
faces campward. Down through the dense, damp
fog, cleaving with dripping faces its heavy folds, we
passed ; glided out of the mist and darkness of the
lowland upon the clear waters of the lake, novv'
lively with ripples, and under the brightly shining
stars, nor checked our measured stroke until we
ran our shell ashore in the glimmer of the fire, by
the side of which, rolled in his blanket, with his
jacket for his pillow, John was quietly sleeping.
At the touch of the boat on the beach he started
up, and the coffee he had made ready to boil at
our coming was shortly ready, and, as we drank
the warming beverage with laughter which startled
the ravens from the pines, and woke the loons,
sleeping on the still water of Be^ v^er Bay, we told
John the story of our adventui\3 with a buck up
Marion River on a foggy niglit. And often, as I
sit in my study, hot and fe\'orish with toil which
wearies the brain and wrinkles the face, I pause,
and, throwing down pe^i OJitl, b'»k, i»»'-:}' myself
192
ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
once more vipon that bank, enveloped in fog, with
the buck and Martin at his tail, careering before
me. Then, with brain relaxed, and eyes which had
been hot with the glimmer of the gas on the white
sheet cooled and washed in mirthfnl tears, I turn
to pen and book, and graver thoughts, refreshed
and strengthened. Blessed be recollection, which,
while it allows the ills and cares of life to fade
away, enables us to carry all our pleasures and
joys forever with us as we journey along !
X.
SABBATH IN THE WOODS.
IAEOSE early, that I might behold the gioi}'
of morning among the mountains. As my
eyes opened, the eastern sky was already over-
spread as with a thin silvery veil, with the least
trace of amber and gold amid the threads ; while
one solitary star, like a great opal, hung suspended
in the translucent atmosphere, with its rich heart
glowing with red and yellow flame.
My camp was made on the very ridge-board of
the continent. Below me, to the south, stretched
the Silurian beach, upon which, as Agassiz believes,
the first ripples broke when God commanded the
dry land to appear. As I lay reflecting upon the
assertion of science, — that these mountains were
among the first to ribO out of the Profound, that here
tlie continent had its infancy, that amid these
heights the earth liegan to take shape and form, —
I seemed to be able to overlook the world. Nor was
It at the cost of any great effort of the imagination
that I seemed to hear, as the dawn brightened in
the east and the rose tints deepened along the sky,
us- the darkness melted, the vapors floated iip, and
194 ADVENTURES IN THE WII,DERNESS.
the atmosphere grew tremulous as the lance-like
beams began to pierce it, the Voice which, in the
beginning, said, " Let there be light ! " As I gazed,
novel emotions arose within me. The experience
was fresh and solemn. The air was cool, delicious.
The earth was clothed as a queen in bridal
robes ; and Morn, with garments steeped in sweet-
smelling odors, her golden curls unbound and lifted
by unseen winds, streaming abroad as a yeUow
mist, — like a maiden at the lattice of her lover, —
stood knocking at the windows of the East, and
saying : " Open to me, my love, my undefiled : for
my head is filled with dew, and my locks with the
drops of the night."
If a person would know how sensitive his na-
ture is, how readily it responds to every exhibition
of beauty and power, how thoroughly adapted it
is, in all its faculties, to religious impressions, he
must leave the haunts of men, — where every
sight and sound distracts his attention, and checks
the free exercises of his soul, — and, amid the
silence of the woods, hold communion with his
Maker. It is the silence of tlie wilderness which
most impresses me. The hours of the Sabbath
pass noiselessly. No voice of conversation, no
sound of 'hurrying feet, no clangor of bells, no roll
of wheels, disturb your meditations. You do not
feel like reading or talking or singing. The heart
needs neither hymn nor prayer to express its emo-
SABBATH IN THE WOODS. 195
tions. Even tlie Bible lies at your side unlifted.
The letters seem dead, cold, insufficient. You feel
as if the very air was God, and you had passed into
that land where written revelation is not needed ;
for you see the Infinite as eye to eye, and feel him
in you and above you and on all sides. It is true, at
intervals, you turn to the Bible. You have your
reading moods, when some apt passage, some appro-
priate selection or chapter, is read, with a profit and
rapture never before experienced. But this mood I
believe to be the exception. Ordinarily, the spirit
is above the letter. The action of eye and voice in-
terfere w^itli the sentiment. You do not want to
read, but think. When you feel the presence of a
friend, have his hand in yours, see him at your very
side, you do not need to take up a letter and read
that he is with you. So with God : in the silence
of the woods the soul apprehends him instinctively.
He is every^vhere. In the fir and pine, which,
like the tree of life, shed their leaves every month,
and are forever green ; in the water at your feet,
which no paddle has ever vexed and no taint pol-
luted, rivalling that wliich is as " pure as crystal " ;
in the mountains, which, in every literature, havs
been associated wdth the Deity, you see Him wdio
of old time was conceived of as a " Dweller among
the hills." AVith such symbols and manifestations
of God around, you need not go to the lettered page
to learn of him. The Bible, with its print and
196 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
paper, is a hindrance rather than a help. Like »
glass with too narrow a field, it concentrates the
vision too much. It clips tlie wings of the imagi-
nation, and narrows the circle of its flight. The
spirit which, for the first time, perhaps, has escaped
the bonds of formal worship, for the first time
tasted of freedom and tested its capacities to soar,
returns regretfully to the restraint and bondage of
book and speech. It takes these up as an angel,
whose hands have once swept a heavenly harp,
touches again the strings of an earthly instru-
ment.
This I have always observed, that the memory
is unusually active, and takes great delight in
recalling texts of Scripture and devotional hymns,
when brought under the influence of nature. Pas-
sages from the Psalms, which I do not remember
that I ever committed ; fragments of old and solemn
hymns, hewn I know not from what block, long
forgotten if ever learned ; snatches of holy melody,
— echoes awakened by what voice you cannot tell
come floating back upon you, or rise at the bidding
of the will. Often have I said to myself, " Alas !
even memory is in bondage to sin." Nature,
through her refining and spiritualizing agencies,
emancipates it ; and sweet is it to think that, by
and by, when our grossness is entirely purged
away, all pure things pafl>««^-"' ^ f or forgotten will
come back to us, and the past, in reference to what--
SABBATH IN THE WOODS. 197
ever of goodness and truth it had in it, will be, to
the holy, an eternal present. Such has been my
experience, in reference to religious impressions,
felt amid the solitude of forests. It takes more
than one season to analyze your emotions. The
mind, for a while deprived of the customary re-
straints and incitements of forms and ceremonies,
is in a chaotic state. Thoughts come and go with-
out order. Emotions are irregular and inconstant.
Tlve Occidental cast of intellect which conceives
of God largely through the reason, changes slowly
into the Oriental. It analyzes less, but it adores
far more. The religion of the forest is emotional
and poetic. No mathematician was ever born amid
the pines. The Psalms could never have been
written by one not inspired by the breath of the
hills. The soul, when it spreads its wings for flight
upward, must start from the summit of moun-
tains. It must have the help of altitude, or no
movement of wings will lift it. And I dare to say
that he who has never passed a Sabbath amid the
solemn loneliness of an uninhaljited region, has
never knelt in prayer at the base of overhanging
mountains, has never fallen asleep with no roof
above him but that of the heavens, and no protec-
tion from the dangers which lurk amid the dark-
ness of the night season save the watchful care of
God, can realize little the significance of these two
words, — Adoration and Faith.
198 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
The day wore on as I mused. The sun passed
the meridian line, and soon the shadows of the pines
and hills began to stretch their cone-like forma-
tions out toward the east. As I gazed upon the
landscape, with a hundred mountains within sM'eep
of my eye, at whose feet lake after lake lay in peace-
ful repose, and between which numberless streams
flowed, gleaming amid the forests of pine and fir
as threads of silver woven into a robe of Lincoln-
green, I thought of the words of Isaiah : " I will
open rivers in high places, and fountains in the
midst of the valleys. I will make the wilderness
a pool of water, and the dry land springs of water."
" The beast of the field shall honor me, and the owls,
because I give waters in the wilderness and ri'S'ers
in the desert." And I said to myself, " Surely He
sendeth the springs into the valleys, which run
among the hills.' " About three o'clock in the after-
noon, as I sat looking out upon the lake, a heavy
jar shook the earth, and simultaneously the air vi-
brated with the sound of thunder. Turning my
eyes toward the west, I perceived a whitish mist
gathering along the mountains, while a few ragged
scuds came racing i\]i from beliind it, and I knew
that in the valleys westward columns of storm
were moving to the onset.
Amid this mountainous region tempests give
brief warning of their approach. Walled in as
tb^se lakes are by mountains, behind which the
SABBATH IN THE WOODS. 199
cloud gathers unseen, the coming of a storm is like
the spring of a tiger. A sudden peal of thunder, a
keen shaft of lightning which cuts through the
atmosphere in front of your startled vision, a puff
of air, or the spinning of a vdiirlwind across the
lake, and the tempest is upon you. So was it now.
Even as I gazed into the white mist, a heavy bank
of jet-black cloud rose up through its feathery
depths, unrolled itself as a battery unlimbers for
battle, and the next instant a sheet of flame darted
out of its very centre, and the air seemed rent into
fragments by the concussion. Here was an exhi-
bition of grandeur and power such as one seldom
beholds ; and yet it did not seem out of harmony
with the day. Behold, I said to myself, the sym-
Dol of the old dispensation. Here is Sinai, the
terror, and the cloud ; here is law and judgment,
vengeance and wrath. And there, I said, turning
to the eastern ridge, upon whose crest the sun, not
yet obscured, shone warmly, is the symbol of the
new, — of Calvary, its light and love. Warned by
the scattering drops which, plunging through the
air, smote like shot upon the beach and water, I
hastened to the lodge ; and as, seated in the door,
I gazed into the dark masses now rolled in wild
convolutions together, — through whose gloomy
folds the winds roared and rushed, tearing the dark-
ness into f)hrod^3, and scattering black patches on
every side, - - I thought of Him who " clothes the
200 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
heavens with blackness, and makes sackcloth
then- covering."
The storm passed. The cloud toward the west
grew thinner, and broke into rifts and ridges,
through which the sun sent its radiance in diverg-
ing columns. As the beams deepened and spread
across the cloud, an arcli of purple and gold began
to creep over it. Beginning at the southern and
northern extremities, the colors clomb upward un-
til they joined themselves together at the centre,
and there, with two mountains for its pedestals,
the magnificent arch stood spanning the inky mass
from north to south ; and as I sat silently gazing
upon the resplendent symbols of God's abiding
mercy, which stood out in full relief against the
sombre cloud, in whose bosom might still be heard
the roll of thunder, I remembered the language of
Ezekiel, where he says, " I fell upon my face, and
I heard a voice of one that spake ; for the appear-
ance was of the likeness of the glory of the Lord."
Suddenly the colors faded away. The sun had
called home his beams, and the glory of their re-
flection deserted the cloud. I turned my eyes to
the west, and up to the summit of the mountain
OA'erhanging our camp. For a moment the glowing
orb stood as though balanced on tlic top of the pines;
for a moment lake and forest and mountain were
ablaze with its radiance ; the next it dropped from
sight. The dark trees gloomily outlined themselves
SABBATH IN THE WOODS. 201
against tlie clear blue of the sky ; and, as the shad-
ows deepened, I thought of the day foretold in the
Apocalypse, when " our sun shall no more go
down, neither shall the moon withdraw herself.
For the Lord shall be our everlasting light, and
the days of our mourning shall be ended."
The day was over. Night spread her sable
wings over the camp, and the lake darkened under
the shadow. On the sky and highest peaks a few
patches of crimson were still visil^le. For a few
moments an aureole lingered around the head of
Blue Mountain. Tlie pines which adorn its crest
gleamed like the rich plume of a king when he
ridetli at noonday to battle. One instant the
beams lingered lovingly about the summit, and
then, obedient to a summons from the west,
flew to join their companions in another hemi-
sphere. And now began the marvellous transfor-
mations from day to night. The clouds were rolled
together and lifted from sight. Unseen hands
flung out new tapestry for the skies, and lighted
lamps innumerable around the circling galleries,
as though the Sabbath had passed from earth, and
the heavens were being made ready for service.
If the day had been suggestive, much more so
was the night. To the north the Dipper hung
suspended royally against the blue of the sky,
journeying in silent revolution around the jiolr.r
star. Farther eastward, and higher up, the mourn-
202 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
ful Pleiades began their nightly search for their lost
sister. In the zenith a meteor wavered and trem-
bled for a moment, then fell and faded away. " A
wandering star," I said, " to which is reserved the
blackness of darkness forever." The balsams felt
the dew, and from tlieir pendant spears droj^ped
odors. I rolled myself in my blanket, and lay
gazing upward. A thousand recollections thronged
upon me ; a thousand hopes rose up within me.
The lieavens elicited confidence, and unto them I
breathed my aspirations. I felt that He who tell-
eth the number of the stars took note of me. The
Spirit which garnished the hea^'ens would grant me
audience. I approached Him reverently, and yet
with confidence, for I remembered that it is writ-
ten, " the heavens shall vanish away like smoke,
and the earth shall wax old like a garment, but
my salvation shall be forever, and my righteous-
ness shall not be abolished."
Then, without help of book or spoken wo/d, I
committed myself to Him, in whose sight the
night is as the day ; and, alone in that vast wilder-
ness, far from home and friends, I closed my eyes
and slept as one who sleeps on a guarded bed.
XI.
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A
FREIGHT-CAR.
SHOULD the reader ever visit the south inlet
of Racqiiette Lake, — one of the loveliest bits
of water in the Adirondack Wilderness, — at the
lower end of the pool, below the falls, on the left-
hand side going up, he will see the charred rem-
nants of a camp-fire. It was there that the fol-
lowing story was first told, — told, too, so graphi-
cally, witli such vividness, that I found little diffi-
culty, when writing it out from memory, two
months later, in recalling the exact words of the
narrator in almost every instance.
It was in the month of July, 1868, that John
and I, having located our permanent camp on
Constable's Point, were lying off and on, as sailors
say, about the lake, pushing our explorations on all
sides out of sheer love of novelty and abliorrence
of idleness. We were returning, late one afternoon
of a hot, sultry day, from a trip to Shedd Lake, — a
lonely, out-of-the-way spot which few sportsmen
have ever visited, — and had reached the falls on
South Inlet just after sunset. As we were getting
204 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
short of venison, we decided to lie by awhile, and
float down the river on our \^'ay to camp, in hope
of meeting a deer. To this end we had gone
ashore at this point, and, kindling a small fire,
were waiting for denser darkness. We had barely
started the blaze, \A'hen the tap of a carelessly
handled paddle against the side of a boat warned
us that we should soon have company, and in a
moment two boats glided around the curve below,
and w^ere headed directly toward our bivouac. The
boats contained two gentlemen and their guides.
We gave them a cordial, hunter-like greeting, and,
lighting our pipes, Avere soon engaged in cheerful
conversation, spiced wdth story-telling. It might
have been some twenty minutes or more, when
another boat, smaller than you ordinarily see even
on those waters, containing only the paddler, came
noiselessly around the bend below, and stood re-
vealed in the reflection of the firelight. I chanced
to be sitting in such a position as to command a
full view of the curve in the river, or I should not
have known of any approach, for the boat was so
sharp and light, and he who urged it along so
skiUed at the paddle, that not a ripple, no, nor the
sound of a drop of water falling from blade or shaft,
betrayed the paddler's presence. If there is any-
thin"- over which I become enthusiastic, it is such
a boat and such paddling. To see a boat of bark or
eedar move through the water noiselessly as a cloud
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 205
shadow drifts across a meadow, no jar or creak
above, no gurgling of displaced water below, no
whirling and rippling wake astern, is something
bordering so nearly on the weird and ghostly, that
custom can never make it seem other than marvel-
lous to me. Thus, as I sat, half reclining, and saw
that little shell come floating airily out of the dark-
ness into the projection of the firelight, as a feather
might come, blown by the night-wind, I thought
I had never seen a prettier or more fairy-like sight.
None of the party save myself were so seated as to
look down stream, and I wondered which of the
three guides would first discover the presence of
the approacliing boat. Straiglit on it came. Light
as a piece of finest cork it sat upon and glided over
the surface of the river ; no dip and roll, no drop
of falling water as the paddle-shaft gently rose and
sank. The paddler, whoever he might be, knew
his art thoroughly. He sat erect and motionless,
the turn of the w^rists, and the easy elevation of his
arms as he feathered his paddle, were the only
movements visil )le. But for these, tlie gazer might
deem him a statue carved from the material of the
boat, a mere inanimate part of it. I have boated
much in 1)ark canoe and cedar shell alike, and
John and I have stolen on many a camp that
never knew our coming or our going, with paddles
which touched the water as snow-flakes touch the
earth ; and well I knew, as I sat gazing at this man^
206 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
that not one boatman, red man or white, in a hun-
dred coukl handle a paddle like that. The quick
ear of John, when the stranger was within thirty
feet of the landing, detected the lightest possible
touch of a lily-pad against the side of the boat as
it just grazed it glancing by, and his " Hist!" and
sudden motion toward the river drew the attention
of the whole surprised group thither. Tlie boat
glided to the sand so gently as barely to disturb a
grain, and the paddler, noiseless in all his move-
ments, stepped ashore and entered our circle.
" Well, stranger," said John, " I don't know how
long your fingers have polished a paddle-shaft, but
it is n't every man who can push a boat up ten
rods of open water within twenty feet of my back
without my knowing it."
The stranger laughed pleasantly, and, without
making any direct reply, lighted his pipe and
joined in the conversation. He was tall in stature,
wiry, and bronzed. An ugly cicatrice stretched on
the left side of his face, from temple almost down to
chin. His eyes were dark gray, frank, and genial.
I concluded at once that he was a gentleman, and
liad seen service. Before he joined us, we had
been whiling away the time by story-telling, and
John was at the very crisis of an adventure
with a panther, when his quick ear detected the
stranger's approach. Explaining this to him, I told
John to resume his story, which he did. Thus
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 207
half an hour passed quickly, all of us relating some
" experience." At last I proposed that Mr. Eoberts
— for so we will call him — should entertain us ;
" and," continued I, " if I am right in my surmise
that you have seen service and been under fire, give
us some adventure or incident which may have
befallen you during the war." He complied, and
then and there, gentle reader, I heard from his
lips the story which, for the entertainment of
friends, I afterward wrote out. It left a deep im-
pression upon all who heard it around our camp-
fire under tlie pines that night ; and from the mind
of one I know has never been erased the impres-
sion made by the story, which I have named
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN" A FREIGHT-
CAR.
" Well," said the stranger, as lie loosened his belt
and stretched himself in an easy, recumbent posi-
tion, " it is not more than fair that I should throw
something into the stock of common entertain-
ment ; but the story I am to tell you is a sad one,
and, I fear, will not add to the pleasure of tlie
evening. As you desire it, however, and it comes
in the line of the request that I would narrate
some personal episode of the war, I will tell it, and
trust the impression will not be altogether unpleas-
ant.
208 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" It was at tlie battle of Malvern Hill, — a battle
where the carnage was more frightful, as it seems
to me, than in any this side of the Alleghanies dur-
ing the whole war, — that my story must begin. I
was then serving as Major in the — th ]\Iassachu-
setts Regiment, — the old — th, as we used to call
it, — and a bloody time the boys had of it too.
About 2 P. M., we had been sent out to skirmish
along the edge of tlie wood in which, as our gen-
erals suspected, the Eebs lay massing for a charge
across the slope, upon the crest of which our army
was posted. We had barely entered tlie under-
brush when we met the heavy formations of Ma-
gruder in the very act of charging. Of course,
our thin line of skirmishers was no impediment
to those onrushing masses. They were on us and
over us before we could get out of the way. I do
not think that half of those running, screaming
masses of men ever knew that they had passed
over the remnants of as plucky a regiment as ever
came out of the old Bay State. But many of
the boys had good reason to remember that after-
noon at the base of Malvern HiU, and I among the
number ; for when the last line of Rebs had passed
over me, I was left amid the bushes with the breath
nearly trampled out of me, and an ugly bayonet-gash
through my thigh ; and mighty little consolation
was it for me at that moment to see the fellow
who run me through lying stark dead at my side.
A RIDE WITH A MAD rfORSE IN A CAR. 209
with a bullet-hole in his head, his shock of coarse
black hair matted with blood, and his stony eyes
looking into mine. Well, I bandaged up my limb
the best I might, and started to crawl away, for
our batteries had opened, and the grape and canis-
ter that came hurtling down the slope passed but
a few feet over my head. It was slow and painful
work, as you can imagine, but at last, by dint of
perse'v erance, I had dragged myself away to the
left of the direct range of the batteries, and, creep-
ing to the verge of the wood, looked off over the
green slope. I understood by the crash and roar
uf the guns, the yells and cheers of the men, and
that hoarse murmur wliich those who have been
in battle know, but which I cannot describe in
words, that there was hot work going on out there ;
but never have I seen, no, not in that three days'
desperate melee at the AVilderness, nor at that ter-
rific repulse we had at Cold Harbor, sucli absolute
slaughter as I saw that afternoon on the green
slope of Malvern Hill. The guns of the entire
army were massed on the crest, and thirty thousand
of our infantry lay, musket in hand, in front. For
eight hundred yards the hill sank in easy declen-
sion to the wood, and across the smooth expanse
the Eebs must charge to reach our lines. It wa.s
nothing short of downright insanity to order men
to charge that hill ; and so his generals told Lee,
but he would not listen to reason that day, and so
210 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
he sent regiment after regiment, and brigade after
brigade, and division after division, to certain deatk
Talk about Grant's disregard of human life, his
effort at Cold Harbor — and I ought to know, for I
got a minie in my shoulder that day — was hope-
ful and easy work to what Lee laid on Hill's and
Magruder's divisions at Malvern. It was at the
close of the second charge, when the yelling mass
reeled back from before the blaze of those sixty
guns and thirty thousand rifles, even as they begar.
to break and fly backward toward the woods, that
I saw from the spot where I lay a riderless horse
break out of the confused and flying mass, and.
with mane and tail erect and spreading nostril,
come dashing obliquely down the slope. Over
fallen steeds and heaps of the dead she leaped with
a motion as airy as that of the flying fox, when,
fresh and uujaded, he leads away from the hounds,
whose sudden cry has broken him off from hunt-
ing mice amid the bogs of the meadow. So this
riderless horse came vaulting along. Now from m}''
earliest boyhood I have had what horsemen call a
' weakness ' for horses. Only give me a colt of
wild, irregular temper and fierce blood to tame,
and I am perfectly happy. Never did lash of
mine, sin^ini]; with cruel sound throutrh the air,
fall on such a colt's soft hide. Never did yell or
kick send his hot blood from heart to head delug-
ing his sensitive brain with fiery currents, driving
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 211
him to frenzy or blinding him with fear ; but
touches, soft and gentle as a woman's, caressing
w^ords, and oats given from the open palm, and
unfailing kindness, were the means I used to ' sub-
jugate' him. Sweet subjugation, both to him
who subdues and to him who yields ! The wild,
unmannerly, and unmanageable colt, the fear of
horsemen the country round, finding in you, not
an enemy but a friend, receiving his daily food
from you, and all those little ' nothings ' wdiich go
as far with a horse as a woman, to win and retain
affection, grows to look upon you as his protector
and friend, and testifies in countless w\ays his fond-
ness for you. So when I saw this horse, with
action so free and motion so graceful, amid that
storm of bullets, my heart involuntarily went out
to her, and my feelings rose higher and higher at
every leap she took from amid the wdiirlwind of
fire and lead. And as she plunged at last over
a little hillock out of range and came careering
toward me as only a riderless horse might come,
her head flung wildly from side to side, lier nostrils
widely spread, her flank and shoulders flecked with
foam, her eye dilating, I forgot my wound and all
the wild roar of battle, and, lifting myself invol-
untarily to a sitting posture as she swept grandly
by, gave her a ringing cheer.
" Perhaps in the sound of a human voice of
happy mood amid tlie awful din she recognized a
212 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
resemblance to the voice of him whose blood
moistened her shoulders and was even yet dripping
from saddle and housings. Be that as it may, no
sooner had my voice sounded than she flung her
head with a provid upward movement into the air,
swerved sharply to the left, neighed as she might
to a master at morning from her stall, and came
trotting directly up to where I lay, and pausing,
looked down upon me as it were in compassion.
I spoke again, and stretched out my hand caress-
ingly. She pricked her ears, took a step forward
and lowered her nose until it came in contact with
my palm. Never did I fondle anything more ten-
derly, never did I see an animal which seemed
to so court and appreciate human tenderness as
that beautiful mare. I say ' beautiful.' No other
word might describe her. Never will her image
fade from my memory while memory lasts.
" In weight she might have turned, when well
conditioned, nine hundred and fifty pounds. In
color she was a dark chestnut, with a veh'ety
depth and soft look about the hair indescribably
rich and elegant. ]\Iany a time lia^-e I heard
ladies dispute the shade and hue of her plush-likc
coat as they ran their white, jewelled fingers
through her silken hair. Her body was round in
the barrel, and perfectly symmetrical. She was
wide in the haunches, without projection of the
hip-bones, upon which the shorter ribs seemed to
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 213
lap. High in the ^^'ithers as she was, the line of
her back and neck perfectly curved, while her
deep, oblique slioulders and long thick fore-arm,
ridgy with sM^elling sinews, suggesting the perfec-
tion of stride and power. Her knees across the
pan were wide, the cannon-bone below them short
and thin ; the pasterns long and sloping ; her hoofs
round, dark, shiny, and well set on. Her mane
was a shade darker than her coat, fine and thin,
as a thoroughbred's always is whose blood is with-
out taint or cross. Her ear was thin, sharply
pointed, delicately curved, nearly black around the
borders, and as tremulous as the leaves of an
aspen. Her neck rose from tlie withers to the
head in perfect curvature, hard, devoid of fat, and
well cut up under the chops. Her nostrils were full,
very full, and thin almost as parchment. The eyes,
from which tears might fall or fire flash, were well
brought out, soft as a gazelle's, almost human in
their intelligence, while over the small bony head,
over neck and shoulders, yea, over the whole body
and clean down to the hoofs, the veins stood out as
if the skin were but tissue-paper against which the
warm blood pressed, and which it might at any
moment burst asunder. ' A perfect animal,' I said
to myself, as I lay looking her over, — ' an animal
which might have been born from the wind and
the sunshine, so cheerful and so swift she seems ;
an animal which a man would present as hi^
214 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
choicest gift to the woman he loved, and yet one
which that w^oman, wife or lady-love, would give
liim to ride when honor and life depended on bot-
tom and speed.'
"All that afternoon the beautiful mare stood
over me, while away to the right of us the hoarse
tide of battle flowed and ebbed. \Aniat charm,
what delusion of memory, held her there ? \Yas
my face to her as the face of her dead master,
sleeping a sleep from which not even the wildest
roar of battle, no, nor her cheerful neigh at morn-
ing, would ever wake him ? Or is there in animals
some instinct, answering to our intuition, only
more potent, wdiich tells them whom to trust and
whom to avoid ? I know not, and yet some such
sense they may have, they must have; or else
why should this mare so fearlessly attach her-
self to me ? By what process of reason or in-
stinct I know not, but there she chose me for her
master ; for when some of my men at dusk came
searching, and found me, and, laying me on a
stretcher, started toward our lines, the mare, un-
compelled, of her own free will, followed at my
side ; and all through that stormy night of wind
and rain, as my men struggled along through the
mud and mire toward Harrison's Landing, the mare
followed, and ever after, until she died, was with
me, and was mine, and I, so far as man might be,
was hers. I named her Gulnare.
A RIDH WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 215
" As quickly as my wound permitted, I was
transported to Washington, whither I took the mare
with me. Her fondness for me grew daily, and
soon became so marked as to cause universal com-
ment. I had her boarded, while in Washington,
at the corner of — Street and Avenue. The
groom had instructions to lead her round to the
window against which was my bed, at the hospital,
twice every day, so that by opening the sash I might
reach out my hand and pet her. But the second
day, no sooner had she reached the street than she
broke suddenly from the groom and dashed away
at full speed. I was lying, bolstered up in bed,
reading, when I heard the rush of flying feet, and
in an instant, with a joyful neigh, she checked
herself in front of my window. And when the
nurse lifted the sash, the beautiful creature thrust
her head through the aperture, and rubbed her nose
against my slioulder like a dog. I am not ashamed
to say that I put both my arms around her neck, and,
burying my face in her silken mane, kissed her again
and again. Wounded, Aveak, and away from home,
with only strangers to wait upon me, and scant
service at that, the affection of this lovely creature
for me, so tender and touching, seemed almost hu-
man, and my heart went out to her beyond any
power of expression, as to the only being, of all the
thousands around me, wlio thought of me and
loved me. Shortly after her appearance at my
216 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
window, the groom, who had divined where he
should find her, came into the yard. But she
would not allow him to come near her, much less*
touch her. If he tried to approach she would lash
out at him with her heels most spitefully, and then,
laying back her ears and opening her mouth sav-
agely, would make a short dash at him, and, as the
terrified African disappeared around the corner of
the hospital, she would wheel, and, with a face
bright as a happy child's, come trotting to the win-
dow for me to pet her. I shouted to the groom to
go back to the stable, for I had no douljt but that
she would retm^n to her stall when I closed the
window. Eejoiced at the permission, he departed.
After some thirty minutes, the last ten of which
she was standing with her slim, delicate head in
my lap, while I braided her foretop and combed
out her silken mane, I lifted her head, and, pat-
ting her softly on either cheek, told her that
she must 'go.' I gently pushed her head out
of the window and closed it, and then, holding
up my hand, with the palm turned toward her,
charged her, making the appropriate motion, to ' go
away right straight back to her stable.' For a mo-
ment she stood looking steadily at me with an in-
describable expression of hesitation and surprise in
her clear, liquid eyes, and then, turning lingeringiy,
walked slowly out of the yard.
" Twice a day, for nearly a month, while I lay in
's^/t^^ ;^
A EIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 217
the hospital, did Gulnare visit me. At the a])-
pointed hour the groom would slip her headstall,
and, without a word of command, she would dart
out of the stable, and, with her long, leopard-
like lope, go sweeping down the street and come
dashing into the hospital yard, checking herself
^rith the same glad neigh at my window ; nor did she
ever once fail, at the closing of the sash, to return
directly to her stall. The groom informed me that
every morning and evening, when the hour of her
visit drew near, she would begin to chafe and wor-
ry, and, by jjaAving and pulling at the halter, adver-
tise him that it was time for her to be released.
" But of all exhibitions of happiness, either by
beast or man, hers was the most positive on that
afternoon when, racing into the yard, she found me
leaning on a crutch outside the hospital building.
The whole corps of nurses came to the doors, and
all the poor fellows that could move themselves, —
for Gulnare had become an universal favorite, and
the boys looked for her daily visits nearly, if not
quite, as ardently as I did, — crawled to the win-
dows to see her. AVliat gladness was expressed in
every movement ! She would come prancing to-
ward me, head and tail erect, and, pausing, rub her
head against my shoulder while I patted her glossy
neck ; then, suddenly, with a sidewise spring,
she would break away, and, with her long tail ele-
vated un^^il her magnificent brush, fine and silken
10
218 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
as the golden hair of a blonde, fell in a great spray
on either flank, and her head curved to its proud-
est arch, pace around me with that high action
and springing step peculiar to the thoroughbred.
Then like a flash, dropping her brush and laying
back her ears, and stretching her nose straight out,
she would speed away with that quick, nervous,
low-lying action which marks the rush of racers,
when, side by side, and nose to nose, lapping each
other, with the roar of cheers on either hand and
■along the seats above them, they come straining up
the home stretch. Eeturning from one of these ar-
rowy flights, she would come curvetting back, now
pacing sidewise, as on parade, now dashing hei
hind feet high into the air, and anon vaulting up
and springing through the air, with legs well under
her, as if in the act of taking a five-barred gate,
and, finally, would approach and stand happy in
her reward, — my caress.
"The war, at last, was over. Gulnare and I
were in at the death with Sheridan at the Five
Forks. Together we had shared tlie pageant at
Eichmond and Washington, and never had I seen
her in better spirits than on that day at the capi-
tal. It was a sight, indeed, to see her as she came
down Pennsylvania Avenue. If the triumphant
procession had been all in her honor and mine,
she could not have moved with greater grace and
pride. With dilating eye and tremulous ear, cease-
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 219
lessly champing her bit, her heated blood bringing
out the magnificent lace-work of veins over her en-
tire body, now and then pausing, and, with a snort,
gathering herself back upon her haunches, as for a
mighty leap, while she shook the froth from her
"bits, she moved with a high, prancing step down
the magnificent street, the admired of all beholders,
cheer after cheer was given, huzza after huzza rang
out over her head from roofs and balcony, bouquet
after bouquet was launched by fair and enthusias-
tic admirers before her ; and yet, amid the crash
and swell of music, the cheering and tumult, so
gentle and manageable was she, that, though I
could feel her frame creep and tremble under me
as she moved through that whirlwind of excite-
ment, no check or curb was needed, and the bridle-
lines — the same she wore when she came to me
at Malvern Hill — lay unlifted on the pommel
of the saddle. Never before had I seen her so
grandly herself. Never before had the fire and
energy, the grace and gentleness, of her blood so
revealed themselves. This was the day and the
event she needed. And all the royalty of her an-
cestral breed, — a race of equine kings, — flowing
as without taint or cross from him that was the
pride and wealth of the whole tribe of desert
rangers, expressed itself in her. I need not say
that I shared her mood. I sympathized in her
every step. I entered into all her royal humors.
220 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
I patted her neck, and spoke loving and clieerfii!
words to her. I called her my beauty, my pride,
my pet. And did she not understand me ? Every
word ! Else why that listening ear turned back
to catch my softest whisper ? why the responsive
quiver through the frame, and the low, happy
neigh ? " Well," I exclaimed, as I leaped from her
back at the close of the review, — alas ! that words
spoken in lightest mood should portend so much !
— ' well, Gulnare, if you should die, your life has
had its triumph. The nation itself, through its ad-
miring capital, has paid tribute to your beauty, and
death can never rob you of your fame.' And I
patted her moist neck and foam-flecked shoulders,
while the grooms were busy with head and loins.
" That night our brigade made its bivouac just
over Long Bridge, abnost on the identical spot
where, four years -before, I had camped my compa-
ny of three months' volunteers. AVith what ex-
periences of marcli and battle were those four
years filled ! For three of these years Gulnare had
been my constant companion. With me she had
shared my tent, and not rarely my rations, for in
appetite she was truly human, and my steward
always counted her as one of our ' mess.' Twice
had she been wounded, — once at Fredericksburg,
through the thigh ; and once at Cold Harbor, where
a piece of shell tore away a part of her scalp. So
completely did it stun her, that for some moments
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 221
I thought her dead, but to my great joy she short-
ly recovered her senses. I had the wound carefully
dressed by our brigade surgeon, from whose care
she came in a month, with the edges of the wound
so nicely united that the eye could with difficulty
detect the scar. Tiiis night, as usual, she lay ai
my side, her head almost touching mine. Never
before, unless when on a raid, and in face of
the enemy, had I seen her so uneasy. Her
movements during the night compelled wakeful-
ness on my part. The sky was cloudless, and in
the dim light I lay and watched her. Xow she
would .stretch herself at full length, and rub her
head on the ground. Then she would start up,
and, sitting on her haunches, like a dog, lift one
fore leg and paw her neck and ears. Anon she
would rise to her feet and shake herself, walk off
a few rods, return, and lie down again by my side.
I did not know what to make of it, unless the
excitement of the day had been too much for her
sensitive nerves. I spoke to her kindly, and petted
her. In response she would rub her nose against
me, and Hck ray hand with her tongue — a pecu-
liar habit of hers — like a dog. As I was passing
my hand over her hqad, I discovered that it was
hot, and the thought of the old wound flashed into
my mind, with a momentary fear that something-
might be wrong about her brain, ])ut, after think-
ing it over, I dismissed it as incredible. Still I
222 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
was alarmed. I knew that sometliing was amiss,
and I rejoiced at the thouglit that I should soon
be at home, where she could have quiet, and, if
need be, the best of nursing. At length the morn-
ing dawned, and the mare and I took our last meal
together on Southern soil, — the last we ever took
together. The brigade was formed in line for the
last time, and, as I rode down the front to review
the boys, she moved with all her old battle grace
and power. Only now and then, by a shake of the
head, was I reminded of her actions during the
night. I said a few words of farewell to the men
whom I had led so often to battle, with whom I
had shared perils not a few, and by whom, as I had
reason to think, I was loved, and then gave, with
a voice slightly unsteady, the last order they would
ever receive from me : ' Brigade, attention ! Ready
to break ranks. Break ranks ! ' Tlie order was
obeyed. But ere they scattered, moved by a com-
mon impulse, they gave first three cheers for me,
and then, with the same heartiness and even more
power, three cheers for Gulnare. And she, stand-
ing there, lo(jking with her bright, cheerful counte-
nance full at the men, pawing with her fore
feet, alternately, the ground, seemed to understand
the compliment ; for no sooner had the cheering
died away than she arched her neck to its proudest
curve, lifted her thin, delicate head into the air,
and gave a short, joyful neigh.
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 223
" My arrangements for transporting her had been
made by a friend the day before. A large, roomy
car had been secured, its floor strewn with bright,
clean straw, a bucket, and a bag of oats provided,
and everything done for her comfort. The car was
to be attached to the through express, in consider-
ation of fifty dollars extra, which I gladly paid, be-
cause of the greater rapidity with which it enabled
me to make my journey. As the brigade broke
up into groups, I glanced at my watch and saw
that I had barely time to reach the cars before
they started. I shook the reins upon her neck,
and with a plunge, startled at the energy of my
signal, away she flew. What a stride she liad !
What an elastic spring ! She touched and left the
earth as if her limbs were of spiral 'svire. AVlien
I reached the car my friend was standing in front
of it, the gang-plank was ready, I leaped from the
saddle, and, running up tlie plank into the car,
whistled to her ; and she, timid and hesitating, yet
unwilling to be separated from me, crept slowly
and cautiously up the steep incline, and stood be-
side me. Inside I found a complete suit of flan-
nel clothes, with a blanket, and, better than all, a
lunch-basket. My friend explained that he had
bought the clothes as he came down to the depot,
thinking, as he said, ' that they would be much
better than your regimentals,' and suggested that I
doff the one and don the other. To this I assented
224 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
the more readily as I reflected that I would have
to pass one night, at least, in the car, with no bet-
ter bed than the straw under my feet. I had
barely time to undress l)efore the cars were coupled
and started. I tossed the clothes to my friend
with the injunction to pack them in my trunk and
express them on to me, and waived him my adieu.
I arrayed myself in the nice, cool flannel, and
looked around. The thoughtfulness of my friend
had anticipated every want. An old cane-seated
chair stood in one corner. Tlie lunch-basket was
large, and well supplied. Amid the oats I found
a dozen oranges, some bananas, and a package of
real Havana cigars. How 1 called down blessings
on his thoughtful head as I took the chair, and,
lighting one of the fine-flavored figaros, gazed out
on the fields past which w^e were gliding, yet wet
with morning dew. As I sat dreamily admiring
the beauty before me, Gulnare came and, resting her
head upon my shoulder, seemed to share my mood.
As I stroked her fine-haired, satin-like nose, recol-
lection quickened, and memories of our compan-
ionship in perils thronged into my mind. I rode
again that midnight ride to Knoxville, when Burn-
side lay intrenched, desperately holding his own,
waiting for news from Chattanooga, of which 1
was the bearer, chosen by Grant himself because
of the reputation of my mare. What riding that
was ! We started, ten riders of us in all, each
A HIDE WITH A MAD HORSE JN A CAR. 225
■vv^itli the same message. I parted company the
first hom^ out with all save one, au iron-gray stal-
lion of Messenger blood. Jack Murdock rode
him, who learned his horsemanship from biiftalo
and Indian hunting on the Plains, — not a Lad
school to graduate from. Ten nales out of Knox-
ville the gray, his flanks dripping with blood,
plunged up abreast the mare's shoulders and fell
dead ; and Gulnare and I passed through the lines
alone. Iliad ridden the terrible raee xoitlioid ivhip
or spur. With what scenes of blood and flight
she would ever be associated ! And then I thought
of home, unvisited for four long years, — that
home I left a stripling, but to which I was return-
ing a bronzed and brawny man. I thought of
mother and Bob, — how they would admire her ! —
of old Ben, the family groom, and of that one who
shall be nameless, whose picture I had so often
shown to Gulnare as the likeness of her future
mistress ; — had they not all heard of her, my
beautiful mare, she who came to me from the
smoke and whirlwind, my battle-gift ? How they
would pat her soft, smooth sides, and tie her mane
with ribbons, and feed her with all sweet things
from open and caressing palm ! And then I thought
of one who might come after her to bear her name
and repeat at least some portion of her beauty, —
a horse honored and renowned tlie country through,
because of the transmission of the mother's fame.
226 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
" About three o'clock in the afternoon a change
came over Gulnare. I had fallen asleep upon the
straw, and she had come and awakened me with a
touch of her nose. The moment I started up I
saw tliat something was the matter. Her eyes
were dull and heavy. Never before had I seen
the light go out of them. The rocking of the car
as it went jumping and vibrating along seemed to
irritate her. She began to rub her head against
the side of the car. Touching it, I found that the
skin over the brain was hot as fire. Her breath-
ing grew rapidly louder and louder. Each breath
was drawn with a kind of gasping effort. The
lids with their silken fringe drooped wearily over
the lustreless eyes. The head sank lower and low-
er, until the nose almost touched the floor. The
ears, naturally so lively and erect, hung limp and
widely apart. The body was cold and senseless.
A pinch elicited no motion. Even my voice was
at last unheeded. To word and touch there came,
for the first time in all our intercourse, no response.
I knew as the symptoms spread what was the mat-
ter. The signs bore all one way. She was in the
first stages of phrenitis, or inflammation of the brain.
In other words, my heautiful mare was going mad.
" I was well versed in the anatomy of the horse.
Loving horses from my very childhood, there was
little in veterinaiy practice with which I was not
familiar. Instinctively, as soon as the symptoms
A FvIUE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 227
had developed themselves, and I saw under what
frightful disorder Gulnare was laboring, I put my
hand into my pocket for my knife, in order to open
a vein. There was no knife there. Friends, I have
met with many surprises. More than once, in
battle and scout, have I been nigh death ; but
never did my blood desert my veins and settle so
around the heart, never did such a sickening sen-
sation possess me as when, standing in that car
with my beautiful mare before me, marked with
those horrible symptoms, I made that discovery.
My knife, my sword, my pistols even, were with
my suit in the care of my friend, two hundred
miles away. Hastily, and with trembling fingers,
I searched my clothes, the lunch-basket, my linen ;
not even a pin could I find. I shoved open the
sliding door, and swung my hat and shouted, hop-
ing to attract some brakeman's attention. The
train was thundering along at full speed, and none
saw or heard me. I knew her stupor would not
last long. A slight quivering of the lip, an occa-
sional spasm running through the frame, told me
too plainly that the stage of frenzy would soon be-
gin. 'My God!' I exclaimed, in despair, as I shut
the door and turned toward her, ' must I see you
die, Gulnare, when the opening of a vein would
save you ? Have you borne me, my pet, tlirough
all these years of peril, the icy chiU of winter, the
heat and torment of summer, and all the thronging
228 ADVENTL'RKS IX THE WILDERNESS.
dangers of a hundred bloody battles, only to die
torn by fierce agonies, wlien so near a peaceful
home ?
But little time was given me to mourn. My
life was soon to be in peril, and I must summon up
the utmost power of eye and limb to escape the
violence of my frenzied mare. Did you ever see a
mad horse when his madness is on him ? Take
your stand with me in that car, and you shall see
what suffering a dumb creature can endure before
it dies. In no malady does a horse suffer more
than in phrenitis, or inflammation of tlie brain.
Possibly in severe cases of colic, probably in rabies
in its fiercest form, the pain is equally intense
These three are the most agonizing of all the dis-
eases to which the noblest of animals is exposed.
Had my pistols been with me, I should then and
there, with whatever strength Heaven granted, have
taken my companion's life, that she might be
spared the suffering which was so soon to rack and
wring her sensitive frame. A horse laboring under
an attack of phrenitis is as violent as a horse can
be. He is not ferocious as is one in a fit of rabies.
He may kill his master, but he does it without
design. There is in him no desire of mischief for
its own sake, no cruel cunning, no stratagem and
malice. A rabid horse is conscious in every act
and motion. He recognizes the man he destroys.
There is in him an insane desire to hill. Not so
A RIDE WITH A ^lAD HOKSK IN A CAR. 229
with the phrenetic horse. He is unconscious in his
violence. He sees and recognizes no one. There
is no method or purpose in his madness. He kills
without knowing it.
" I knew what was coming. I could not jump out ;
that would be certain death. I must abide in the
car and take my chance of life. The car was for-
tunately high, long, and roomy. I took my position
in front of my horse, watchful and ready to spring.
Suddenly her lids, wliich had been closed, came
open with a snap, as if an electric shock had passed
through her, and the eyes, wdld in their brightness,
stared directly at me. And what eyes they were !
The membrane grew red and redder, until it was of
the color of blood, standing out in frightful contrast
with the transparency of the cornea. The pupil
gradually dilated until it seemed about to buret
out of the socket. The nostrils, which had been
sunken and motionless, quivered, swelled, and
glowed. The respiration became short, quick, and
gasping. The limp and drooping ears stiffened and
stood erect, pricked shar^Dly forward, as if to catch
the slightest sound. Sj^asms, as the car swerved
and vibrated, ran through her frame. More horrid
than all, the lips slowly contracted, and the white,
sharp-edged teeth stood unco^'ered, giving an in-
describable look of ferocity to the partially opened
mouth ! The car suddenly reeled as it dashed
around a curve, swaying her almost off her feet.
230 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
and, as a contortion shook her, she recovered her-
self, and, rearing upward as high as the car per-
mitted, phmged directly at me. I was expecting
the movement, and dodged. Then followed exhibi-
tions of pain which I pray God I may never see
again. Time and again did she dash herself upon
the floor, and roll over and over, lashing out with
her feet in all directions. Pausing a moment, she
would stretch her body to its extreme length, and,
lying upon her side, pound the floor wath her head
as if it were a maul. Then, like a flash, she would
leap to her feet, and whirl round and round, until,
from very giddiness, she would stagger and fall.
She would lay hold of the straw with her teeth,
and shake it as a dog shakes a struggling wood-
chuck ; then dashing it from her mouth, she would
seize hold of her own sides, and rend herseK.
Springing up, she w^ould rush against the end of
the car, falling all in a heap from the ^'iolence of
the concussion. For some fifteen minutes, without
intermission, the frenzy lasted. I was nearly ex-
hausted. My efforts to avoid her mad rushes, the
terrible tension of my nervous system produced by
the spectacle of such exquisite and prolonged suf-
fering, were weakening me beyond what I should
have thought it possible an hour before for anything
to weaken me. In fact, I felt my strength leaving
me. A terror, such as I had never yet felt, was
taking possession of my mind. I sickened at the
A RIDE WITH A MAD HORSE IN A CAR. 231
sight before me, and at the thought of agonievS yet
to come. ' My God,' I exclaimed, ' must I be killed
by my own liorse in this miserable car !' Even as
I spoke, the end came. The mare raised herself
until her shoulders touched the roof, then dashed
her body upon the floor with a -vdolence which
threatened the stout frame beneath her. I leaned,
panting and exhausted, against the side of the car.
Gulnare di^l not stir. She lay motionless, her
breath coming and going in lessening respirations.
I tottered toward her, and, as I stood above her,
my ear detected a low, gurgling sound. I cannot
describe the feeling that followed. Joy and grief
contended within me. I knew the meaning of
that sound. Gulnare, in her frenzied \iolence,
had broken a blood-vessel, and was bleeding inter-
nally. Pain and life were passing away together.
1 knelt down by her side. I laid my head upon
her shoulders, and 'sobbed aloud. Her body moved
a little beneath me. I crawled forward and lifted
her beautiful head into my lap. 0, for one more
sign of recognition before she died ! I smoothed
the tangled masses of her mane. I wiped, with
a fragment of my coat, torn in the struggle, tlie
blood which oozed from her nostril. I called her
by name. My desire was granted. In a moment
Gulnare opened her eyes. The redness of frenzy
had passed out of them. She saw and recognized
me. I .spoke again. Her eye lighted a moment
232 ADVENTURES IN THE WILDERNESS.
with the old and intelligeutlook of love. Her ear
moved ; her nostril quivered gently as she strove
to neigh. The effort was in vain. Her love was
greater than her strength. She moved her head a
little, as if she would be nearer me, looked once
more M'ith her clear eyes into my face, breathed
a long breath, straightened her shapely limbs, and
died. And there, holding the head of my dead
mare in my lap, while the great warm tears fell
one after another down my cheeks, I sat until the
sun went down, the shadows darkened in the car,
and night drew her mantle, cnbr^c* ?ike my gric^
over the world."
APPENDIX
BEACH'S SIGHT.
I FEEL that I cannot do my brothei* sportsmen
who may read this book a greater service than by
bringing this invention to their notice.
The gi-eat desideratum and problem with rifle-
makers and sportsmen, as all are aware, has been to
invent a sight that would combine all the merits of
" bead " and " open " sight, so that the hunter vv-ould
be able at will, and without a moment's delay, to
use the globe or open sight, according as the game
might be in motion or stationaiy, amid tlie shadows
of the forest or in the sunlight of the fields, or as the
color of the object might be dark or bright.
All sportsmen know how^ vexations it is to have to
" rap " out one sight to insert another, necessitating
as it does tedious delay and the wearisome process
of "sighting," when there may be neither time
nor powder to spare, and no appliances at hand to
effect an accurate adjustment.
In this invention this desideratum is met, and the
solution found.
By a glance at the following cuts, every man ac-
quainted with the rifle will see how completely Mr,
234
APPENDIX.
Beach's ingenuity has furnished what every rifleman
has so long desired. He will see that this sight
combines, in a cheap and simple form, the merits of
the "bead" and "open" sights, so that without
any removal, without an instant of delay, by a single
movement of the finger, the hunter can use either, as
his judgment decides is best, when he stands looking at
his game.
Adjusted for Open Sight.
Adjusted for Globe Sight.
The writer of this has had for nearly a year this
sight upon his favorite rifle, where it has had months
of actual trial ; and, whether upon the target-grounds
of our best clubs or amid the Adirondack wilderness,
it has met every want, and remains to-day, where it
always will remain, on his rifle, an indisputable witness
to the value of the invention.
If space would allow, we might quote the enthusi-
astic indorsement of such men as Lewis of Troy,
W. P. McFarland, Superintendent of the Massaclni-
setts Arms Company ; the celebrated veteran sportsman
Edward Stabler, Esq., of Maryland ; F. G. Gann, Esq.,
P'-esident of the Hawk Eye Rifle Club ot Connecti-
APPENDIX. 235
cut, and of scores of hunters and trappers in Northern
New York, where the sight was taken for trial last
sununer.
Without a single excejytion, the verdict lias been
unanimoiLS for its adoption.
A hunter in Canada wi'ites : " I would not part with
Beach's sight, after four months' trial, for twenty mink-
skins." Another, from Connecticut, writes : " Fifty
dollars would not purchase my sight." Yet another,
from the North Woods, declares : " The best thing I
ever saw. I have hunted and trapped for thirty years,
and I can kill one third more gavie with this sight
than with any other I ever had." An amateur in
New York City writes : " The moment I saw the sight,
my heart leapt for joy. Here is what I have always
been looking for. I would have bought it at ten times
its price. No rifle is fit for use without it."
The following note is from Mr. Stabler.
Sandy Spring, November 30, 1S67.
To E. B. Beach, Patentee of Beach's Combination Sight, West Meri-
den, Connecticut: —
I duly received, by mail, the patent bead or globe rifle
sight. In principle it is by far the most complete and per-
fect affair of the kind I have ever seen. In thus combining
the two sights, the hunter has all the advantage of both,
by a mere touch of the finger, — a perfect head sight for
hunting, and a glohe for close and long range shooting.
Very respectfully,
Edwaud Stabler.
The two illustrations will seiwe to give you an idea
of how the sight operates, but to fairly appreciate, 't
286 APPENDIX.
you must have it on your own rifle a few days, and
see how admirably and completely it meets every want
of the practical sportsman, in wood and field service.
The sights are made with bases of different sizes, so as
to fit any rifle, whether the slot is wide or narrow. In
ten minutes, any man with a file can fit one to his
rifle. Every sight is warranted. If it does not give
perfect satisfaction, upon trial, you can retm-n it and
the money will be refunded.
Unfortunately, the firm which contracted with Mr.
Beach to manufactm'e the sights failed before intro-
ducing them to the public, and the affairs of the
company still being in litigation, the demand for
these sights is left unsupplied. I understand that
arrangements are making by which Mr. Beach will
proceed to manufactiu'e them himself; and I advise
every one who owns a rifle to winte him on the receipt
of the information herein given, which, without the
solicitation or knowledge of Mr. Beach, I gladly and
freely impart.
Address, E. B. Beach, Esq., West Meriden, Conn.
THE END.
Y^ Bookworme
K'^^%WWTisn::w^n:'innw^w^^^
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that one can see the characters and their setting, delicious bits of humor,
passages full of infinite pathos, make this book absolutely hold the reader from
the title to the last word, and as, when finished, one sighs for the pitv of it, the
feeling rises that such a work has not been written in vain, and will have its
place among those which tend to elevate our race.
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THE FOUR GOSPELS. Translated into Modern English from the Au-
thorized and Revised Versions. By Ernest Bilton. Cloth, jti.oo.
A cJieafi edition of a tieiu translatioii of tJie Gospels, having a great rim oj
popularity in the religions circles of Great Britain.
The author has taken the authorised version as it stands, availing him-
self of many corrections suggested by the revised version, and has given t'.ie
apparent meaning of the text in the plainest possible language, the whole
object being the simplification of tlie narratives of the Evangelists. It is not
expected that this rendering will supersede tlie accepted version. The author
evidently feels that he is not without hope that it may lead to the serious con-
sideration, in proper quarters, of the advisability of providing the people
with an authorised translation of the Scriptures into the " vulgar tongue."
not of the sixteenth but of the jiineteenth century.
THE SKETCHES OF THE CLANS OF SCOTLAND, with twenty-
two full-page colored plates of Tartans, By Clansmen J. M. P. - F. W. .S.
Large Svo. Cloth, $2.00.
The object of this treatise is to give a concise account of the origin, seat, and
characteristics of the Scottish clans, together with a representation of the dis-
tinguishing tartan worn by each. 'J he illustrations are fine specimens of color
^vork, all c-xecnted in Scotland.
THE GREEN HAND; or, the .'Vdventures of a Naval Lieutenant. A Sea
Story. By George Cui'ples. With Portrait of the Author and other
Illustrations. 1 vol. i2mo. Cloth. J2.00.
A new library edition of this fascinating sea classic. [In /ras.
ALL MATTER TENDS TO ROTATION, OR THE ORIGIN
OF ENERGY. A New Hypothesis which throws Light upon all the
Phenomena of Nature. Electricity, Magnetism, Gravitation, Light,
Heat, and Chemical Action explained upon Mechanical Principles and
traced to a Single Source. By Leonidas Lk Cenci Hamilton, M. A.
Vol. I. Origin ol bneigy: Electrostatics and Magnetism. Containing 100
lUustratious, inclcdiDt Fine Steel Portraits of Faraday and Maxwell.
Handsomeiv bound ic cloth. Svo, 340 pp. Price, $3.00. Net.
Jo ;ms volume the author has utilized the modern conception of lines of
torce originated by Faraday, and afterwards developed mathematically by
Prof. J. Clerk Maxwell, and he has reached an explanation of electrical and
magnetic phenomena which has been expected by physicists on both conti.
nents. It may have a greater influence upon the scientific world than either
Newton's "Principia" or Darwin's " Origin of Species," because it places
natural science upon its only true basis — Pure Mechanics.
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Library Afents,
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JOHN BROWN. By Hermann Von Holst, author of "Constitutional
History of the United States," &c., together with an introduction and appen-
dix by Frank P. Stearns, a poem by Mr. Wason, and a letter describing
John Brown's grave. Illustrated. i6mo, gilt top. iSi.50.
This book, the author of which is so v.-ell known by his " Constitutional His-
tory," and by his biography of John C. Calhoun, cannot fail to be of interest to
all students of American history, who appreciate a calm, impartial criticism of
a man and an episode which have been universally and powerfully discussed.
MARGARET; and THE SINGER'S STORY. By Effie Douglass
Putnam. Daintily bound in white, stamped in gold and color, gilt
edges. i6mo. }Ji.25.
A collection of charming poems, many of which are familiar through the
medium of the magazines and newspaper press, with some m-ore ambitious
flights, amply fulfilling the promise of the shorter efforts. Tender and pastoral,
breathing the simple atmosphere of the fields and woods.
AROUND THE GOLDEN DEEP. A Romance of the Sierras.
By A. P. Reeder. 500 pages. i2mo. Cloth. #1.50.
A novel of incident and adventure, depicting with a strong hand the virile life
of the mine that gives its name to the story, and contrasting it with the more
refined touches of society in the larger cities ; well written and interesting.
SIGNOR |. By Salvatore Farina. Translated by the Baroness Lant.e-.
nau. i2mo. Cloth. $1.25.
A dainty story by an Italian author, recalling in the unique handling of its
incidents, and in the development of its plot, the delicate charm of " Marjorie
Daw."
MIDNIGHT SUNBEAMS, OR BITS OF TRAVEL THROUGH
THE LAND OF THE NORSEMAN. By Edwin Coolidge Kim-
ball. On fine paper, foolscap Svo, tastefully and strongly bound, with
vignette. Cloth. 5i-2S-
Pwonounced by Scandinavians to be accurate in its facts and descriptions
ind of great interest to all who intend to travel in or have come from Norway
>r Sweden.
WOODNOTES IN THE GLOAMING. Poems and Translations by
Mary Morgan. Square i6mo. Cloth, full gilt. $1.25.
A collection of poems and sonnets showing great talent, and valuable transla-
tions from Gautier, Heine, Uhland, Snlly-Prudhomme, Gottschalk, Micliae]
Angelo, and others. Also prose translations from the German, edited and
prefaced by Max Miiller.
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THOMAS CARLYLE'S COUNSELS TO A LITERARY ASPI-
RANT (a Hitherto Unpublished Letter of 1842), and What Came of
Them. With a brief estimate of the man. By James Hutchinson Stir-
ling, LL. D. i2mo, boards, 50 cents.
Gives a side of the rugged old Scotchman which will be new to most readers.
It shows that he was not always gruff and bearish, and that he could at times
ihink of somebody besides himself. The letter is one lohich every youug tttati
■who has a leatiing towards literary work will read and ponder over.
SOCIAL LIFE AND LITERATURE FIFTY YEARS AGO.
i6mo, cloth, white paper labels, gilt top. $1.00.
By a well-known litterateur. It will take a high place among the literature
treating of the period. A quaint and delightful book, exquisitely printed in the
Pickering style.
CIVILIZATION IN THE UNITED STATES. By Matthew
Arnold. And Other Essays concerning America. i6mo, unique paper
boards. 75 cents. Cloth, uncut, $1.25. The cloth binding matches the
uniform edition 0/ his collected worhs.
Comprises the critical essays, which created so much discussion, namely,
" General Grant, an Estimate." "A Word about America," "A Word more
about America," and " Civilization in the United States."
*jt* This collection gathers in the great critic's /(j^/ contribuiionF to itte.ature.
LEGENDS OF THE RHINE. From the German of Pt^. Bernard.
Translated by Fr. Arnold. Finely Illustrated. Small 4to. Cloth.
An admirable collection of the popular historical traditions of tne Rhine, told
with taste and picturesque simplicity. \In press.
A SELECTION FROM THE POEMS OF PUSHKIN
Translated, with Critical Notes and a Bibliography. By Ivan Panin,
author of "Thoughts." Foolscap 8vo. Unique binding. ^2.00.
The first published translation by the brilliant young Russian, Ivan Panin,
whose lectures in Boston on the literature of Russia, during the autumn of last
, ear, attracted crowded houses.
WIT, WISDOM, AND PATHOS, from the prose of Heinrich Heine,
with a few pieces from tlie " Book of Songs " Selected and translated by
J. Snodgrass. Second edition, thoroughly revised. Cr. Svo, 33S pp.
Cloth, $2.00
"A treasure of almost priceless thought and criticism." — Contemporary
Revievj.
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CvppleS and Hltrd, Booksellers BOSTON.
Library Agents,
ImpJi'tcint New Books.
BOOKS FOR THE SEEKER AND FOE THE SORROIVFUL.
LIFE'S PROBLEMS. HERE AND HEREAFTER. An autobio-
graphy. By Geokge Tkuemjei.le Flanders. i6mo. Cloth, gilt top.
$1.25. Second Edition revised.
This book, which is not sectarian, has been received with marked favor by
critics and by readers, both in this country and in Kngland. This is not sur-
prising, for it treats the most difficult problems of life, here and hereafter, in a
hold and fearless manner, and at the same time in a candid and tender spirit,
and has supplanted unbelief, doubt, and perplexity, with faith, trust, and hope.
'' li is a real spiritual biog;ra/'/tj — ati inner life honestly revealed. . . Such
a cheer/id spirit animates the book, a spirit so /nil of spiritual Ouoya?icy, in har-
mony -ivith the gospel of love, see/x-ing th'f good and the beautiful — this in itself
co»imu?iicates hope, courage, and faith." ■ — Boston Fcst.
WHENCE? WHAT? WHERE? A VIEW OF T*- E ORIGIN,
NATURE, AND DESTINY OF MAN. By .Tam,:s r. Nkik.i.s.
With portrait of the author, izmo. Clolli, gilt top. ^1.25. Eleve?itk
edition, revised.
"/ consider the late fames R. Nichols, the luell-kttoivn chemist, one of the
ijolest and most scientific investigators in the field of psychical phenomena, and,
at the same time, one of the most honest. If the world had more earnest think-
ers of the same kind to co-operate with hitn, the world would find out some-
thing of value. — foseph Cook.
"' No one can take up the book without feeling the inclination to read further,
and to ponder on the all -important subjects which it presents. 'J'hough it is not
a religious book in the accepted sense of the word, it is a book which calls for the
exercise of the religious nai?ire, and which in disusing many sensible ide,:s
wdl be good." — Vliiladelphia I'ress.
THE MYSTERY OF PAIN : A BOOK ADDRESSED TO THE
SORROWFUL. By James HiNTON, M. D. With an introduction by
James K. Nichols, author of "Whence? What? Where?" i6rao.
Cloth, gilt top. $1.00.
This book was published in England twenty years ago, and a small edition
was sent to this country, which readily found purchasers. Tlie book, at the
time it appeared in England, had a limited sale ; but since the author's death a
new interest has arisen, and the work has been widely circulated and read. — A
book which has comforted many a troubled soul, and awakened the emotion of
love in distressed and doubting hearts. — IMany good and uplifting thoughts in
the book, — thoughts which will not readily pass from the memory. The prob-
lem of pain is indeed dark and not easily solved; and if one is able to poijit
out rifts in the cloud, the world of sufferers will welcome the light as raj's
breaking through from the regions of rest and bliss. — From the Introdttciiou.
" No word of praise can add anything to the value of this little work, which
has no^u taken its place as one of the classics of religious literature. The ten-
der, reverent, and searching spirit of the author has come as a great consolation
and kelfi to many persons.''' — New I 'ork Critic.
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Library .Agents,
Important New Books.
Lives of Five Distinguished Americans, i he Only
BiDGRAPHiES Extant.
iVlATTHEW CALBRAITH PERRY. A typical Am»rican Naval Officer.
By William Elliot Griffis, author of "The Mikado's Empire," and
" Corea : the Hermit Nation." Cr. Svo, 459 pages, gilt top, with two por-
traits and seven illustrations. ^(2.00.
" Sure of favorable reception, and a permanent place in public and private
libraries." — IV. J'. Eveniiig Post.
" Of unusual value to every student of American history." — Nat. Baptist.
"One of the best books of the year." — Public Ofiinio7i.
"His biography will be one of the naval classics." — Army ami Navy
Journal.
" Has done his work right vieXi." —Chicago Ez>erti7igJournai.
" Highly entertaining and instructive." — Universalist Quarterly.
THADDEUS STEVENS, AMERICAN STATESMAN, AND
FOUNDER OF THE REPUBLICAN PARTY. A Memoir by
E. B. Callendar. With portrait. Cr. Svo. Cloth, gilt top. $1.50.
A biography of one of the most interesting characters in the whole range of
American politics, whose work must be understo(.id tlioroughly to gnin accurate
knowledge of the secret forces operating during his times, 1792 to i86y.
JOHN HOWARD PAYNE. A Biography of the author of " Home,
Sweet Home," by Chas. H. Brainard. With four portraits from minia-
tures and other sources, fac-simile of manuscript, " Home, Sweet Home,"
and photographic illustrations of his tomb at Washington, etc., etc. Svo.
Cloth elegant, gilt top, in box. ^3.00.
Apart from the remembrance and regard in which the author of " Home,
Sweet Home " is held by the world, this biography will possess additional inte-
rest from the fact that it is written under the direct editorshiD of W. W. Cor-
coran, the late eminent philanthropist, who provided the funds for the removal
of the poet's body from Africa to Washington.
THE LIFE OF ADMIRAL SIR ISAAC COFFIN, BARONET;
HIS ENGLISH AND AMERICAN ANCESTORS. By Thomas
C. Amorv. With portrait. Large Svo. 1^1.25.
The name of Coffin is so widely spread over our continent, so many thous-
ands of men and women of other patronymics take pride in their descent from
Tristram, its first American patriarch, that what concerns them all, any consid-
erable branch or distinguished individual of the race, seems rather history than
biography.
THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF COMMODORE CHARLES
MORRIS. "VM heliotypc portrait after Ary Schcffcr. i vol. Svo.
1 1 1 Images. $ 1 .00.
A valuable addition to the literature of American history ; a biography of
one who, in the words of Admiral Farragut, was "America's grandest seaman."
Clippies and Hiird, " BoMcrs, BOSTON,
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HOW TO WRITE THE HISTORY OF A FAMILY. By W. P.
W. PtiiLLiMORE, !\I. A., B. C. L. I vol. Cr. 8vo. Tastefully prhited in
dutiqui style, handsomely bound. $2.00.
Unassuming, practical, essentially useful, Mr. Phillimore's book should be in
the hands of every one who aspires to search for his ancestors and to learn liis
family history. — Athenaujn.
This is the best compendious genealogist's guide that has yet been published,
and Mr. Phillimore deserves the thanks and appreciation of all lovers of family
history. — Reliqttary.
Notice. — Large Paper Edition. A few copies, mn hand-made paper, wide mar-
gins, bound in half morocco, may be obtained, price $6.50 net.
THE KINSHIP OF MEN: An Argument from Pedigrees ; or. Genealogy
Viewed as a Science. By Henry Kendall. Cr. Svo. Cloth, $2.00.
The old pedigree-hunting was a sign of pride and pretension ; the modern is
simply dictated by the desire to know whatever can be known. The one
advanced itself by the methods of immoral advocacy; the other proceeds by
those of scientific research. — Spectator (London).
RECORDS AND RECORD SEARCHING. A Guide to the Genealo-
gist and Topographer. By Walter Rye. Svo, cloth. Price $2.50.
This book places in the hands of the Antiquary and Genealogist, and others
interested in kindred studies, a comprehensive guide to the enormous mass of
material which is available in his researches, showing what it consists of, and
where it can be found.
ANCESTRAL TABLETS- A Collections of Diagrams for Pedigrees, so
arranged that Eight Generations of the Ancestors of any Person may be
recorded in a connected and simple form. By William H. Whit.more,
A.M. SEVENTH EDITION. On heavy parchmeni paper, large 4fo,
iastefuUy and strongly bound, Roxburgh style. Price ^2.00.
" No one with the least bent for genealogical research ever examined this in-
feniously compact substitute for the ' family tree ' without longing to own it.
t provides for the recording of eight lineal generations, and is a perpetual
incentive to the pursuit of one's ancestry." — Nation.
THE ELEMENTS OF HERALDRY. A practical manual, showing
w hat Iieraldry is, where it comes from, and to what extent it is applicable to
American usage ; to which is added a Glossary in English, French and
Latin of the forms employed. Profusely Illustrated. By W. H.
Whitmore, author of " Ancestral Tablets," etc. \,Ih press.
Publishers,
CuppUs and Hurd, booksellers, BOSTON,
■^■' Library A sf^i^t
Important New Books.
PROF. CLARK MURRAY'S II'ORKS.
SOLOMON MAIMON: An Autobiography. Translated from the Ger-
man, with Additions and Notes, by Prof. J. Clark Murkay. i vol,
Cr. 8vo. Cloth. 307 pp. $2.00.
A life ■which fo7-vis one of the most exiraordiiiary biographies in the history
of literature.
The London Spectator says: "Dr. Clark Murray has had tlie rare good
fortune of first presenting this singularly vivid book in an English translation
as pure and lively as if it were an original, and an original by a classic
ICnglish writer.
George Eliot, in "Daniel Deronda," mentions it as " that wonderful bit of
autobiography — the life of the Polish Jew, Solomon JMainion " ; and Milman,
in his "History of the Jews," lefers to it as a curious and rare book.
HANDBOOK OF PSYCHOLOGY. % Prof. J. Clark Murray,
LL D., Professor of Mental and Moral Philosophy, IM'Gill College,
Montreal. Cr. 8vo. 2d edition, enlarged and improved. $i-75'
Clearly and simply written, with illustrations so well chosen that the dullest
student can scarcely fail to take an interest in the subject.
ADOPTED FOR USE IN COLLEGES IN SCOTLAND, ENGLAND,
CANADA, AND THE UNITED STATES.
Prof. ]\fiirray's good fortune in bringing to light the " Jilaitnon Memoirs"
'o^etherwith the increasitig popularity of his "Hnndbooh of Psychology" hai
tttracted the attention of the intellectual icorld, giving him a position
with the leaders of thought of the present age. His writings are at once
■'■riginal and suggest iz'e.
AALESUNC7 TO TETUAN. Y>V Cuas. R. Corning. A Volume of
Travel. lamo. 400 pp. Cloth. $2.00.
Table of Contents. — Portsmouth — Isle of Wight — Channel Islands —
Mormandy — Nice — Monte Carlo — Genoa — Naples and its Environments —
ivome — Verona — Venice — Norway — Sweden — St. Petersburg — Moscow —
iVarsaw — Perlin — Up the Rhine — Barcelona — Valencia — Seville — Cadi?,
— Morocco — Gibraltar — Granada — Madrid and the Royal Wedding — Bull
fights — Escurial — Biarritz — Bordeaux — Paris.
TAPPY'S CHICKS: or, Links Between Nature and Human Nature.
By Mrs. George Curi'LES. Illustrated. i6mo. Cloth. ;?i.25.
The tenderness and humor of this volume are simply exquisite. — A". /'.
Whipple.
The title is altogether loo insignificant for so delightful and valuable a work.
— Spectator (London).
It is not merely a work of talent, but has repeated strokes of undeniable
genius. — George Macdonald. [/« preparation.
Publishers, ny^r^ »7-/-\
Cupples and Hurd, noohseiiers, BOSTON.
ft J,wrary Agents,
Important New Boons.
A New Book by W. H. H. Murray.
DA YL IGHT LAN D. The experiences, incidents, and adventures, humorous
and otherwise, which befell Judge John Doe, Tourist, of San Francisco ;
Mr Cephas Pepperell, Capitalist, of Boston ; Colonel Goffe, the Man
from New Hampshire, and divers others, in their Parlor-Car Excursion over
Prairie and Mountain ; as recorded and set forth by W. H. H. Murray.
Superbly illustrated with 150 cuts in various colors by the best artists.
Contents: — Introduction — The Meeting — A Breakfast — A Very Hopeful
Man — The Big Nepigou Trout — The Man in the Velveteen Jacket — The
Capitalist — Camp at Rush Lake — Big Game — A Strange Midnight Ride
— Banff — Sunday among the Mountains — Nameless Mountains — The Great
Glaciar — The Hermit of Frazer Caiion — Fish and Fishing in British Colum-
bia — Vancouver City — Parting at Victoria.
Svo. 350 pages. Unique paper covers, 1^2.50; half leather binding, $3.50.
Mr. Murray has chosen the north-western side of the continent for the scene
of this book ; a region of country which is little known by the average reader,
but which in its scenery, its game, and its vast material and undeveloped
resources, supplies the author with a subject which has not been trenched upon
even by the magazines, and which he has treated in that lively and spirited
manner for which he is especially gifted. The result is a volume full of novel
information of the country, humorous and pathetic incidents, vivid descriptions
of its magnificent scenery, shrewd forecasts of its future wealth and greatness
when developed, illustrated and embellished with such lavisliness and artistic
elegance as has never before been attempted in any similar work in this coun-
try.
ADIRONDACK TALES. By W. H. H. Murray. Illustrated. i2mo.
300 pages. $1.25.
Containing John Norton's Christmas — Henry Herbert's Thanksgiving — A
Strange Visitor — Lost in the Woods — A Jolly Camp — Was it Suicide? —
The Gambler's Death — The Old Beggar's Dog — The Ball — Who was he ?
Short stories in Mr. Murray's best vein — humorous; pathetic; full of the
spirit of the woods.
HOW DEACON TUBMAN ANO PARSON WHITNEY KEPT
NEW YEARS, and other Stories. By W. II. H. Murray. i6mo.
Illustrated. $1.2^.
A HEART REGAINED. By Carmen Svlva (Queen of Roumania)
Translated by Mary A. Mitchell. Fcap. Svo. Cloth. ;?i.oo.
A charming story by this talented auchoress, told in her vivid, picturesque
manner, and showing how patient waiting attains to ultimate reward.
Cupples and Hitrd, ' Bookskiers, BOSTON
I^ibrary Agetiis,
Important New Boohs.
RALPH WALDO EMERSON, Philosopher and Seer. An Esiiniate
of his Cliaracter and Genius. By A. Bronson Alcott.
With portraits niid otiicr illnstrntious. Foolscap octavo. Gilt to]). ^1.50.
Cue hmnircd co/iies-zvill he /•riiitcd OH larger aiid finer f>af>cr, Sto, siiifahle
for the insertion 0/ extra illiistraiioits. Bound in Roxlnirgli, gilt top. J'rice
to Std'scriders, Jf^.oo.
A book abnnt Emerson, written by the one man who stood nearest to him of
all men. It is an original and vital contribution to Einerso7na ; like a portrait
of one of the old masters jjainted by his own brush. [in Press,
HERMAN GRinri\rs ]rORKS.
THE LIFE OF RAPHAEL as shown in Ills principal works. From the
German of Herman Grima?, author of "The Life of Michael Angelo,"
etc. ]Vith frontispiece, after Braiin, of the recently discovered portrait,
outlined by Raphael i>i chalk. Cr. Svo. Cloth. jfl2-o^.
ESSAYS ON LITERATURE. From the German of Herman- Gkim.m,
uniform with "The Life of Raphael." New ajid enlarged edition, care-
fully corrected. Cr. Svo. Cloth. J2.00.
BY JAMES H. STARK.
ANTIQUE VIEWS OF YE TOWNEOF BOSTON. By JamesH.
Stark, Assisted by Dr. Samuel A. Green', Ex-Mayor of Boston, Libra-
rian of the Massachusetts Historical Society; John Ward Dea.n, Libra-
rian of the New England Historic Genealogical Society; and Judge
Mellen Chamuerlain', of the Public Library. An extensive and exhaust-
ive 7i'ork in, S78 pages. Large quarto. Illustrated luith nearly zoo fidl
size reprodjictions of all ktioivn rare maps, old prints, etc. 1 vol. 4to.
Cloth. $6.00.
BERMUDA GUIDE. A description of everything on or about the Ber-
muda Islands, concerning which the visitor or resident may desire informa-
tion, including its history, inhabitants, climate, agriculture, geology,
government, military and naval establishments. By Ja.mes H. Stark.
Witli Maps, Engravings and 16 photo-prints. i vol. i2mo, cloth,
'57 PP- #2.00.
PAUL REVERE: Historical and Legendary. By Elbridge H. Goss.
With reproductions of many of Revere's engravings, etc. [In press.
A DIRECTORY OF THE CHARITABLE AND BENEFICENT
ORGANIZATIONS OF BOSTON, ETC. Prepaied for the Asso.
ciated Charities, i vol., 196 pp. 161110. Cloth, ;? 1.00.
Publishers,
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Important New Books.
Translations of Two Powerful German Novels by Authors
New TO American Readers.
THE LAST VON RECKENBURG. By Louise von Francois. Trans-
lated from the third German edition. 370 pages. Cr. 8vo. Cloth, gilt.
^1.50.
The popularity of this book among the reading public of Europe, and the
interest it has excited in critical circles, led to the present translation into
English. Gustave P'reytag, one of the greatest of German novelists, says of
it : " Clear, terse, with not a word too much, and rich in powerful expres-
sions, it depicts everything in short sentences, obedient to every mood, every
change of color. Readers will alw ays close this volume with a consciousness
that they have received a rare gift."
MM. F.rckmann-Chatrian have depicted the feverish excitement of France
during the height of Napoleon's meteor-like blaze : this equally powerful ro-
mance shows the reaction in Germany immediately after his downfall, when
the pulse of Europe was striving to regain its normal beat.
THE MONK'S WEDDING. A novel. By C. F. Meyer. Cr. Svo
unique binding, gilt top. $1.25.
This is an Italian story, v, ritten by a German, and translated by an American,
and purports to be narrated by the poet Dante at the hospitable hearth of his
patron, Can Grande. He evolved it from an inscription on a gravestone :
"Hie jacet monachus Astorre cum uxore Antiope. Sepeliebat Azzolinus"
(Here sleeps the monk Astorre with his wife Antiope. Ezzelin gave them
burial). Those who have any acquaintance with the unscrupulous machina-
tions of the Italian, and particularly of the Italian ecclesiastic, will have little
difficulty in conjuring up what a grim, lurid tale of secret crime and suffering a
" Monk's Wedding" is sure to be. It is of sustained and absorbing interest, full
of delicate touches and flashes of passion, a tragedy which ca.inot fail to leave
an impression of power upon the mind.
Works by William H. Rideing.
THACKERAY'S LONDON: HIS HAUNTS AND THE
SCENES OF HIS NOVELS. With two original Portraits (etched
and engraved) ; a fac-siiuile of a page of the original manuscript of " Tl;e
Newcomes ; " together with several exquisitely engraved woodcuts, i vol,
square i2rao. Cloth, gilt top, in box. Ji.oo. Fourth Edition.
LITTLE UPSTART, A. A Novel. Third edition. i6mo. Cloth. $1.25.
" As a study of literary and would-be literary life it is positively brilliant-
^lany well-known figures are drawn with a few sweeping touches. Tke book,
as a story, is interesting enough for the most experienced taste, and, as a satire,
it is manly and healthy." — Joh}i Boyle O' Rcilly.
" Notably free frotn the least sensationalism or unnaturalness. . . Fla.shes of
sterling wit, with touches of exquisite pathos, and with a quiet mastery of style
which I have rarely seen surpassed in American fiction and seldom equalled.
The incidental bits of philosophy, observation, and keen worldly knowledge
have few parallels in our literature." — Edgar Faivceit.
Clippies and Hlird, ' Booksellers, BOSTON.
Library Agents,
Important New Books.
Books about Ralph Waldo Emerson.
RALPH WALDO EMERSON: PHILOSOPHER AND SEER. By
Bronson a. Alcott. Second edition. Portraits, etc. Cr, 8vo. Cloth. ;f i.oo.
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