I OHO P35 opy 1 EAGLE LIBRARY ^^^ In England and France Jessica Lozier Payne's Letters E^^lfP" BROOKLYN DAILY EAGLE SI^°?!>IS Subscription price, $1.50 per year, including Eagle Almanac Vol. XXXI (1916) PRICE 10 CENTS Year No. 8 9* THE EAGLE LIBRARY A Series of Publications on Topics of Contemporaneous Interest (Numbers Ont of Print are marked thus*. Copies may be seen on application at The Eagle Information Bureau) (Libraries from 1 to 34 are out of print) No. 34— Spoopendyke SketcBes. by Stanley Huntley. Paper cover, price 2oe. ; Cloth coyer, SOc. No. 3."— 'The Charter of the City of New York, with Amendments. No. ae— 'The Primary and Election Laws as Amended by the Legislature of 1899. No. 37— 'The Building Code of New York City. 1899. No. ."JS- 'Father Malone Memorial. (Illus- trated.) January. 1900. Price 5c. No. 39— •Plymouth Church Annals. (Illus- trated.) February. 1900. Price 5e. No. 40— Annual Meeting Suffolk CJounty His- torical Society, 1900. Price 5c. 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Subscription Price to Eagle Library for One Year, INCLUDING THE EAGLE ALMANAC, $1,50 WITHOUT ALMANAC, $1.00 ^©J FHE EAGLE LIBRARY % i WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE BY JESSICA LOZIER PAYNE OFFICE OF PUBLICATION 1 EAGLE BUILDING, BROOKLYN, NEW YORK Entered at the Brooklyn-New York Postoffice as second-class matter. Vol. XXXI, No. 8, of The Eagle Library, Serial No. 199. Nov., 1916. Trademark, "Eagle Library." registered. Issued monthly except January. June and August. Yearly subscription, $1.50. __[o]!o][o][o][o][o][o][o][o][o][o][oI[o] i JJG4 7^35" The Eagle Library-WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND i^D FRANCE GRAVEL ROOFING A SPECIALTY Phone Bedford 29-30 Wood and Steel Frames $85.00 Up Immediate Delivery Steel Portable Buildings Fireproof Garages MANUFACTURED IN BROOKLYN WILLIAM BUCHANAN 488-490 Sumner Ave., Brooklyn Thirty=five Greenhouses HORTICULTURIST 734 Fifth Avenue Branches: Fort Hamilton Parkway, TELEPHONES— 27 South, 3410 Flatbush. Gravesend Av., and 291-313 24th St. PLOTS IN GREENWOOD CEMETERY IMPROVED AND CARED FOR. Palms,Vines and Fresh Flowers Supplied and Artistically Arranged for Weddings at Reasonable Rates «? FLORAL DECORATIONS FOR ALL OCCASIONS PLANTS AND FLOWERS DELIVERED ANYWHERE # r-B " 'dec iTiaif ' ' ' DEC II 1916 The Eagle Library. WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE By JESSICA LOZIER PAYNE lilra. Je.tsica Zozier Payne is u^ell-TcHOwn flirortgh her interesting '^Current Topics'* talTcs. She has traveled eactensifcly and is tvell posted on H^hat is going on in the world, in her "talks'* and writings she shotvs a broad conijtrehcnsion of the large elements involved in the tvorltl's news and site has the ability, to explain them in clear* crisp and precise statentcnts. in the following letters written for The Eagle Ulrs, Payne shows she has made a stmly of the psychology of the people and has obtained the point of view of high authorities as well as that of the htitnblest citizen. Every American Regarded as a Spy Until Proof Is Given to Contrary The difficulties of travel in Europe In war times are' apparent as soon as your steamer docks. An alien officer closely examines your papers and puts a good many searching questions to you before you are permitted to put foot on shore, and it is not unusual for steamers arriving at Liverpool to have to board and lodge until their return trip unfortunate passengers ■who have not been able to convince the British authorities that their busi- ness is urgent and harmless, and that they are persona grata. An official explained to me that un- less a traveler were particularly de- sirable his place on a railroad train might better be filled by a soldier, and the very food he consumes might bet- ter be conserved for the use of the English people while the country is at war. Then, too, there is always the suspicion that you might be a spy. The police keep track of every move made by an alien; you must report as soon as you reach a city and give the police a day's notice before you can leave. It was 10 o'clock when I drove up to my hotel in Liverpool, and even at that hour on Sunday evening T was requested to fto to the police station to register bofora r could be given a room. I said to ^^.e police official: "Why do you treat me with such suspicion'? My papers are straight, my intentions are honest and evident, and my busi- ness is plain." He replied: "Madame, our nrdcr.x are to regard every American as a German spy until proof is given us to the contrary. England has suffered so much harm since the beginning of the war by her laxness in perm'tting I travelers bearing American passport. s to have perfect freedom of travel that now we are using every precaution to protect ourselves." "But." 1 said, "after all you have to use your judgment and trust to your j perception and intuition, for papers could be forged and wrong informa- tion given, if a person were trying to deceive the authorities, and I don't look like a spy, do I?" "That is just it, the Germans are too '"Km "W .HWJUjUujiiiiiJi ^ ..^x-.^t*"^' ~'*seirS MRS JESSICA L02:iER PAVME clever to employ as a spy anyone who looks like one; so you never can tell." I found the English police difficult enough, but I didn't begin to know how impossible a human official could ! be until I reached Scotland. I Edinburgh is in what they have dcs- [ ignatcd as the restricted military area, which includes the east and west coasts and the nort'nern part of Scot- land' above Aberdeen. In this area there are more stringent restrictions in regard to travel than elsewhere in Great Britain. By the time I arrived In Edinburgh I had accomulated quite a sheaf of credentials from the different police stations en route, so I felt safe; but the Scotch alien officer pushed all aside and said: "Whaur's your Identity Book?" I had to confess that I had none, and he gave me a blue covered book containing twenty-one questions to be filled out and signed by two house- holders. This was rather a poser for me until I remembered that some- where in Edinburgh I must have a Consul, and forthwith I hunted him up and told him my troubles. His name is Rufus Gleming and he is a splendid type of American, appointed under McKinley and still holding the office, which goes to prove that all good Con- suls are not changed with changing political powers. Armed with the Identity Book filled out and bearing the consular stamp, I returned to the police station, but the end was not j-et. Reading it cautiously, the officer came to a dead halt at question II, "Personal Description." Looking se- verely at me, he said: "Have you no' a mark of identity upon your per- son?" "'What do you mean?" I asked. "Have you no blemish, mole or scar to identify you?" I could think of nothing but a tiny mole upon my right wrist, and this I offered hopefully. He scrutinized it solemnly and then said: "I canha accept it; 'tis too sma.' " Much disappointed. I suggested my cleft chin, but this he also refused, saying, "That's verra common in these parr'rts," Looking accusingly at me, he said: "Whut's that on your cheek?" I recalled that blemish, but asked him not to take that, since it disap- pears when I am not tired. I said: "It vanishes like a submarine, you know." With great seriousness, he said: "No, it's not verra like a submsi» The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE rine." And I remembered too late that they were engaged in catching Bubmarlnes in, the vicinity of Edin- burgh and considered them far from being the subject of a Joluu hpBitate in answering the ques- tion.s p-t to you, vou become an ob- ject of .suspicion and are taxen in a small room for personal examination. An American gentleman who crossed on the boat with me was stripped and searched, and even his back was washed with a solution of alcohol, for the Eng- lish discovered that maps of important localities or fortifications v.cre some- times painted in invisible ink on the back ot a spy, and these were made legible by the use of a wash of a cer- tain ;icid. Aftei all thv?e i'i£?nuticn.': ycj go )s Painted on Their Invisible Ink through a search almost as rigid when you land in Havre, after a trip of about six hours, and the English work here, too, with the French. But, once in France, conditions of travel are much more simple. Of course, you cannot go up near the front or the fighting line, and you are always liable to be held up and de- layed on the railway, for military trains have the rignt of way. You still must report at the police stations, \ but you are not regarded with suspi- cion, as you are in Great Britain, and as long as you comply with the required regulations you may go about your business. Paris is a little difficult, for a trav- eler must either pass straight through, remainln.g not more than twenty-four hours, or else is required to remain from eight to fourteen days, while his case is being investigated. But when you have constantly be- fore your eyes the spectacle of how tremendous a price in suffering and sacrifice these countries are paying for the war, you cannot blame them for taking every precaution, and the at- tendant delay and inconvenience to you seem a matter of insignificance. iiow V/ar Conditions Affect Westminster Abbey London liy day looks muoli the same as in peace times, Zeppe- lin raids have wrought no visi- ble destruction, and except for the many soldiers and officers, the girla in semi-military uniforms of woolen khaki cloth, wearing the V. A. D. (Volunteer Aid Detachment) badge, and groups of wounded convalescents being taken in batches to the cinema escorted by watchful, rosy-checked nurses in crisp uniform, one would never know from externals that the country is at war. But though things look the same, there is a difference, and one feels it keenly; it is in the air. It is indefin- able, but none th'S less real; you feel •bar th"^ p.?ilo ars leased, they are determined, there is a new crispncss of I expression, an added briskness to the j gait of the men on the street. Eng- 1 land has made sacrifices and has suf- j fered and the faces of the people show it. On the Thirteenth Sunday after Trinity I attended service at West- : minster Abbey. It vi'as a most unusual and thrilling sight. Entrance was only through the Poets Corner, and the Abbey was full even to the standing- room capacity, and this service was just the usual one of Sunday mornin.g. A good half of the congregation were men, many of them soldiers from over seas. The metal letters on their shoul- der straps told their home country. I .oaw men in uniform frcm Ati.?tralia, The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE Tasmania, New Zealand, Canada and South Africa; they looked around with Interest, for many of them had never been In Westminster Abbey before. I sat between a Highlander in kilts who had a beautiful baritone voice, and a naval cadet, who sang a clear sweet tenor. The hymns chosen were familiar ones and the men's voices In the congregation quite drowned the choir. We sang that lovely old hymn by William Cowper, "God Moves in a Mysterious Way, His Wonders to Per- form." I shall never forget the sing- ing of that verse. Judge not the Lord by feeble sense But trust Him for Hi.s Grace, Behind a frowning providence. He hides a smiling face. The women In the congregation were too moved to sing after the sec- ond line. They frankly and audibly sobbed, while the men, with steady, vibrant voices, sustained by the deep notes of the organ, carried it triumph- antly to the end. The sermon was short, clear and practical in its application, it was preached by the Rev. C. P. J. Proctor, Vicar of Islington, and it was a plea for a more real expression of the spir- itual in everyday life. After the service I walked around the Abbey and noted the precautions taken against Zeppelin bombs. The chapel of Henry VII has all the carved effigies of the ancient tombs protected by sand bags, and the main altar of the Abbey itself is heaped high with sand bags, thousands of them. The priceless old windows of the apse have all been removed and replaced with plain glass. At St. Mar- garet's, just outside of the Abbey, I noticed that the beautiful windows were gone, too. I asked a verger where they were, and he said, "Burled where the Huns will never find them," In the crisp, clear sunshine of that September day It seemed impossible to think of any such impending dan- ger, but even as I looked up at the clock tower of the Parliament build- ing where "Big Ben" is housed I saw a Britisli aircraft sailing majestically through the blue. This mysterious Taube, whose pul- sating breath could be plainly heard, seemed half bird and half guardian angel for that ancient Abbey wliere, from the time of Edward I, England had crowned her kings and queens, and who.se monuments in sculptured stone epitomize the history of the na- tion. I sent up a special prayer that the fate of Rhelms Cathedral might not befall this beautiful old Abbey of Gothic structure, so crowded with memories and steeped in the incense of prayer of generations. Food Prices Sky Hi^h — Women in Unusual Jobs Having seen the women working in the engineering shops in Edinburgh, I was very curious to see how they were taught. Of course, the secret of mak- ing this unskilled 'abor valuable lies In splitting up a complicated operation Into many simple ones, and then training the girl for that single thing, whether it be a drill or lathe or riveter. She soon becomes very expert, and can turn out her portion both quickly and accurately, and pass it along for the next operation. The Royal Technical College of Glasgow has courses of training for munition workers, arranged at the re- quest of the Minister of Munitions. Professor Mellenby, the head of this department, said that the women pick up this work much more quickly than a man above the exemption age. I talked with a young girl, who was a typical Highland lassie, with blue- green eyes and a quantity of the love- liest red hair. She had nearly com- pleted her course of training, anc v/as engaged on a slot-drilling tool. This was very delicate work, calling for ac- curacy up to 1-10, 000th of an Inch. Said she: "I never knew there was iuch a fine measurement; it seems like cutting a hair in two. But I was a. dressmaker before 1 volunteered for munitions work, so I always had a Straight eye." It is interesting to see a man, who two years ago would have scorned to work next to a woman, now co-op- erating with the Government and teaching a group of girls the cherished tricks of the trade — things that he had learned by a slow process of years, and had zealously guarded. Everything in the way of food is very costly. I paid sixpence apiece for oranges, but they might be classed as luxuries and tempted me because they were labeled "Tasmanian seed- less fruit." I found that even the necessities were almost double in price to that of two years ago, and I made a comparative list with a housekeeper which might interest those of us in this country who know how much they are paying for food. I have given American equivalent for the money. Present. Before Price. War. Butter, lb 59 cents 29 cents Pototoes, pk 29 cents 16 cents Gran, sugar, lb. ..12 cents 6 cents Eggs, doz GG cents 25 cents B,T.con. lb 41 cents 18 cents Bread, loaf 19 cents 12 cents I had an amusing experience in Glasgow, The city was crowded and, like Edinburgh, teeming with life. When a page was c-:;t to chew me mj room at the Central Station Hotel I was taken up to the last stop of the elevator and then mounted an extra flight of st.Tlrs. It was evidently the attic, and as I followed the boy down corridors I passed several soldiers and heard whistling and banging from the different rooms. While the door was being unlocked I read a sign tacked upon it. 'Guests will please not clean their boots on the household linen." That was rather a shock to me, and my suspicions were confirmed when on entering I saw a small black iron bed, and the dresser placed between the two high mansard windows, so I felt it was no place for me, and I told the boy to take my bags back to the ofllce. The young woman at the en- trance desk said: "I am afraid that is the best we can do for you, madam. We are full up, and the only other vacant room Is ' a parlor bedroom, and you would have to pay high for that." "How high?" I asked. "Twelve shillings a day." "Even so," said I, "I will take it." And smiled to myself as I thought of the tiny room you could buy for $3 a day at the Blltmore or Ritz in New York. The first thing I did when I entered that room was to look in the mirror to see why I had not impressed that clerk as a possible $3-a-day guest. In Glasgow I found women em- ployed in many industries aside from munitions or shipbuilding. Their sub- stitution for men in various trades I covered so broad a field that I made a list from an employment bureau of some lines that interested me. Four hundred and sixty women are employed in lighting and extinguish- ing stair and street lights; 140 women clean the streets, and often empty dust bin.s, and, most spectacular of all, a woman has been seen, decently dressed in black, driving a hearse. At an employment agency there was ono applicant for housework, and there were fifty women trying to se- cure her. People living in the sub- urbs of Glasgow are swarming into town and filling the hotels to get r^J of the servant problem. Women of wealth are also respond- ing to the needs of their country. Hun- dreds of beautiful country houses are either turned over for hospitals or transformed into convalescent homes for the soldiers. The country is full of young women "V. A. D.'s" (Volun- teer Aid Detachment), nursing in hos- pitals and distributing supplies. At Bromley, a training station near London, a funny incident occurred. Finding that there were no bathtubs provided for the soldiers, a young woman went from house to house asking that the use of the bathtub with soap and towels be given to the soldiers on stated days of the week. One fussy matron appeared at tha ofiice a few days later and said: "I don't mind a dirty soldier on Monday nights, but you must really not send me two on Wednesday night, for my daughter positively muf' *.aJt^ a hot batn on that c'sht." rs The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE England as Germany's Rival in Making of Dyes On my way down from Glasgow to London I decided to stop at Manchester, which is in the cotton spinning and weaving district, to note the changed war conditions. The train service is greatly disrupted by the military needs of the hour. The transportation of soldiers, horses, mu- nitions and supplies of all sort is given the right of way. The railways have taken off their restaurant cars and Bleeping coaches, and, except for fast through trains, time tables are frequently changed at a moment's notice. The Government protects travelers from Zeppelin raids at night by a notice commajiding that all blinds be closely drawn until the train is run Into the station shed. Further warn- ing is given against German spies by a sign posted in all cars and stations: "Discussion in public of naval or mili- i tary matters may convey information to the enemy. Be on your guard." It was nearly midnight when I reached Manchester and since the porters had all enlisted for military eervice there were only a couple of Bleepy old grandfathers to handle the luggage. It was raining hard, and I sent one small boy after another out in the darkened streets to search for a taxi. When it arrived the two boys were fighting on the steps, each claim- ing the sixpence tip and the speediest eettlement was to pay it to them both. That was a wild ride to the hotel. The driver had evidently been fighting the chilly atmosphere with liquid fire, and In the resultant confusion he dropped my trunk off the taxi into the middle of a puddle at the first corner, and When he tried to put it up again he muttered accusingly: " 'Eaviest trunk I ever see. Say, loldy, what you got in it? Zeppelin bombs?" It was with a feeling of gratitude that I reached the hotel in- tact. Since the cotton mills had employed Bome women before the war, I was particularly Interested in the dye Works of Manchester. The Levinstein Company is the largest dyeing con- cern in England. At present it is do- ing an enormous business for the Gov- ernment, which has caused such ex- pansion of Its works that it is plan- ning after the war to capture for Eng- land the enormous American trade that has previously gone to Germany. At this Manchester dye works there are forty chemists experimenting with different dyestuffs to master the se- crets that up to this time have been zealously guarded by Germany, and they have achieved such success that they now feel they can rival Germany In the markets of the world. I had crossed on the steamer with Dr. Levinstein, the head of the firm. Dr. Levinstein said the men were drunk half the time, and refused to work steadily. They felt their power these men up and make them see the necessity of giving satisfaction if they valued their pay envelopes. A special uniform has been designed for the women — khaki knickers tucked into high boots and a belted coat and visored cap. A former office building has been turned over to their exclusive use with ample arrangement for comfort — locker rooms, rest rooms and canteen; and I saw the compe- tent lady superintendent, who was putting the last touches preparatory to the reception of the thirty girls ex- pected on the morrow, with the un- derstanding that if the scheme worked since there was no other labor to be had, but the introduction of women to this same kind of work would brace well, the firm would take on 200 at the end of a two weeks trial. An amusing incident occurred at the Manchester Cathedral. When an officer is killed in action the sign of mourning permitted to the soldiers of his company consists of a narrow black ribbon, like a bit of tape, on the back of his collar. A kind-hearted lady attending service at the Cathe- dral noticed thte many black collars and commiserated a soldier on having lost so many officers at the front. "If it's the black collar you mean, madam, we are Welsh soldiers, and it is our custom. In the early days Welsh regiments wore perukes and they spoiled the collars, so black ones were adopted and have been worn ever since." So the gentle old lady transferred her sympathies lo a more needy cause. London Hospital Managed by Women On Endell street in London there is a iUlque hospital. It is run entirely by women. Dr. Flora Murray and Dr. An- derson are the chief surgeons. Other prominent women physicians are on the staff, also women dentists, anesthetists, X-rayists, chemists, quartermaster, superintendent, matron and nurses; even orderlies and stretcher bearers; all are women, and the librarian is Beatrice Harriden, who wrote "Ships That Pass in the Night." There are over five hundred pa- tients, and they are separated into chree divisions — the surgical, medical and psychopathic wards. The last is for those whose nervous system has been shattered by the horrors of trench life or by having been for hours under direct shrapnel and shell fire. Some are blind from shock, others are deaf, many have lost their power of speech and others cannot walk. The matron told me that while some have not a wound they are ab- solute wrecks and very difficult to handle, for a nervous man is very much worse than a nervous woman. "Do these men ever become really normal again?" I asked. "Yes, the percentage of recoveries is large, especially of the deaf and speech bullets. To aid in this work they hav« a splendid X-ray room with all the latest appliances, and specialize in this rather new development which is prov- ing such an invaluable help to surgery. On my way out I talked to one of the patients lying in the courtyard, a man who had lost a leg at the thigh. He seemed very intelligent, and I was interested to gain from him some idea of how the men felt about this hospital run by women. "Do the soldiers like this institution as well as those in charge of men sur- geons?" I asked. "The women doctors are all right; they are just splendid, and many of the men ask to be sent here, if it can be done." he said. "Is that because they believe that ihe women are more patient and will take more pains to save an amputa- tion?" "That's the only trouble with them; they work too hard to keep them." "Surely," said I, "you don't mean that you would rather lose your arms and legs and be crippled all your life?" "Well, what's the use of saving an arm If the muscles are tore away and it ain't strong enough to work with. less, and those whose nerves of loco ' °'" '^ '^^ '* " '^ "^^^^ ^"'^ ^°" '^^^^ *^° motion are affected they have to learn ! ^° '^™^ °" *" -^"^ '* "'*' ^^^'^ ^• to walk all over again, like litUe chil ' ^""^ ^^^" ^°"'" ^^* ^°^'^ pension. You They have two operating theaters, one for major operations, chiefly ab- dominal incisions or amputations, and the other for minor operations, frac- tures, shell wounds, and exploration for might better have steady money in your hand than a leg or arm that don't do you no good." This certainly was a new angle of vision for me, and I began to feel more cheerful about all the m.utilated men I saw on the streets. Sta8[gered by Lord Northcliffe cllffe. He owns and controls a chain of newspapers and magazines and per- Bonifles the power of the presi, which Is so vital a factor in shaping public opinion, Like most men of his prominence, public favor and disfavor and seems serenely Indifferent to either. He had just returned from a trip to Spain and to the trenches of the Somme when I reached London. I had a letter of Introduction from a Brooklyn newspaper man, but It seemed a small key to open so big a The-Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE 9 1 A British Soldier Assisting a Wounded German Prisoner Across "No Man's Land," Near Morval,~oa the Somme Front. 10 The Eagle Library-WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE door, for it was only three lines in length. Perhaps its terseness appealed to this news-gettins specialist, for I received an immediate response, giv- ing me an appointment for the next morning. His office is in the Amalgamated Press Building, which is an enormous modern newspaper office building, em- ploying about 3,000 girls. With the note as credentials, I was passed quickly along and finally found myself in the outer reception room of his office, and was told by his private secretary, a capable and distinguished looking young woman, that Lord Northcliffe would receive me. I was ushered into a long room with three windows on one side, furnished in heavy mahogany and with upholstery, curtains and rug in softwood brown and blue. At the farther end a cannel grate Are was burning in a beautiful fireplace. Before the tire in a deep lounging chair of blue plush was a man who rose to greet me. It was a dramatic setting, and seemed as unreal as a scene in a play. Coming briskly forward and giving me a firm handclasp. Lord Northcliffe, in crisp business-like tones said: "Mrs. Payne, I am pleased to know you. What can I do for you?" This lilunt question, put to me by a man whose moments are precious, added the final note to my embarrass- ment, and I felt myself sinking Into an abyss of vacuity, and stripped of the program I had arranged for this inter- view. So I frankly said: "The kindest thing you can do is to forget for a moment that you are Lord Northcliffe, and let me talk to you like a plain human man." This seemed to amuse him, his man- ner relaxed as he laughed and led me over to a luxurious cnair opposite him before the fire and began to talk about golf, which is his one passion outside of newspaper work. This attitude on his part was so reassuring that I swung back to normal in a moment and began to note the personality of the man whose force is so great that he seems like a sort of human dynamo. Lord Northcliffe is one of the most extraordinary men I have ever met. Of medium height, his figure is com- pactly knit, and the well-set head Is finely proportioned, with square, fight- ing jaw and full, firm lips. He is clean shaven and has a clear, ruddy complexion and deep-set, clear blue eyes under strongly marked brows. His brown hair Is straight and falls in a rebellious look over a rather high forehead. Restored once more to a degree of serenity, I asked him first what the general feeling in England, was to- ward the United States. He smiled deprecatingly and said: "We did not expect you to go to war, but we did look to you at the begin- ning, and have on several occasions since, to utter some protest at things that have occurred which have vio- lated the ideals for which we believed you stood. Your silence has been in- comprehensible and we could put but one construction on it and thai not a favorable one to the hnyl <>* j.'- •- n-\ tion. The American Government seems to have no unity— no clear na- tional voice." "Perhaps," I said, "that is because we are the melting pot of all the na- tions, and have to consider many racial antagonisms and sympathies when we speak as the American peo- ple." "England, too. Is full of different strains." ho said. "Lancashire does not understand Devonshire, nor York- shire the Londoner. The Scotch are a different race, more like the French. There is less difference between a Scotchman and Frenchman than be- tween Scotchmen and Englishmen. Yet, in spite of the vast differences m Great Britain, all are pulling to- gether." "Yes," said I, "because there Is a great common cause for the moment. If we were at war and there was need to protect our life as a nation. I be- lieve a great national spirit would be born In the United States." "That may be true," said Lord Northcliffe. Lord Northcliffc's Opinion of How Germany Will Fail "I would like your opinion," 1 asked Lord Northcliffe, "on one point, which would be of great Interest to me. I have considered this war as a rope made of tour strands— 1. military; 2, economic; 3, political; 4, psychological. Both sides have these elements to consider, and the ability of either side to continue the war is dependent on its total strength or resultant force which is the rope made up of these four strands. This rope is no stronger than its weak- est strand, and I want to know which element you consider most likely to fall m the German situation." He considered the matter for a mo- ment, then nald: "I believe the psychological strand will be the weakest in the German sit- uation. The German people have been fed on illusions and lies, and how is the German Government going to explain defeat to its people? "Their papers tell them that the Zep- pelins have reduced London to ruins — that the French soldiers are starving. "The other day lit the front I met a ! former friend of mine, an officer in the German army, who had Just been taken i prisoner. I greeted him and asked if I I could serve him. He said that he wanted nothing, that his situation as a prisoner was simply a fortune of war, but he did regret that London had been so destroyed. I assured him It was not so, but he only smiled and shook his head and said he knew posi- tively and on the best authority that Victoria Station was laid waste. Some day people who have been so deceived will demand a reckoning. What will the Germans do when they learn the truth? Unless the German psychology breaks down or some extraordinary military act causes a crisis, the war may continue for two years more Ger- many has been preparing for this war since Frederick 1, end she cannot be crushed in a moment." At the close of the interview Lord Northcliffe asked me my plans, and I said: "I would like to go to France." "Why don't you?" "Because I am told it is dangerous, and the difficulty of travel great." j "If you are discouraged, you had j better remain here in England, but If you really wiant to go to France, make a start and go. You can accomplish anything you want in this world If you really want it hard enough." On the strength of thla inspiring word from a man who has certainly accomplished all he desired, I began et once to plan to cross Into France, and my safe arrival there a week later con- firmed the value of Lord Xorthcllffe's advice. War Time Changes in Paris Paris is no longer gay and sprightly. She ofl'ers a changed face to travelers those days; she is fighting for her life j and hard beset, but doing it with such courage and calmness that the in.^pir- ation of her bravery balances the drc- j ades of dashing pleasures she has of- ! fered to her visitors. The streets are full of soldiers. The per missionaires, as I they call the men on leave, have eight I days rest from the front, and are transported without charge to Paris; here they slouch along the streets . v'']-:v'S ••vub.a»'.^ c; .■■■;, <:> ih-? shop I windows. They are weary looking, these bearded fellows, and their dented 1 steel bomb-proof helmets and mud- i stained heavy boots show them to be fresh froin the trenches. They are a contrast to the new recruits fresh from ! the drill grounds, who have not yet seen service. These look eager and erect in their unstained uniform of horizon blue. Then there are the wounded, men without arms, or lack- ing a leg, or with parts of their jawa ' shot away — and, saddest of all, the blind. Ill tbe Pois you .see them and on The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE 11 n the boulevards, being taught to walk and given courage by some young woman who chats and laughs with them and tries to inspire them to step briskly and have confidence. The of- ficers always salute a blind soldier, and a pathetic sight I saw on the shallow steps leading up to a church. A peasant mother and her blind sol- dier boy were ascending these steps when an ollicer came out of the church. He saluted the soldier in passing, and his mother said to him, "Your Captain has just passed and saluted you." The poor blind boy, helpless and with limited means of expression, felt the need of doing something, so he turned and kissed his mother — it was all he could do. The hotels have suffered greatly through the war. The novernment took over some to use for the French and Belgian refugees. The Carlton and i^^toria, on the Champs Elysees, are now military hospitals. The beautiful diningrooms and salon facing this avenue have been turned into wards and the beds of the patients can be plainly seen from the street. Paris hotels have lost not only their wealthy clients who spent money freely, but theii- servants have all gone to the front, leaving them only jnen too old or boys too young for military service, which in France claims all men between the ages of seventeen and forty-five years. Some hotels like the Crillon make a point of employing only Frenchmen who have seen service and been wounded. The lift-man has lost one arm and wears three medals, the por- ter is a hero of the Marne. and the entire personnel of the hotel is com- posed of reformer. The hotels also have to face the in- creased cost not only of wine and foodstuffs, but also that of coal. Many of them have given up their central heating and have gone back to small stoves or grate fires. The shops are quite changed, too, lacking the vast tourist' trade that filled their coffers before the war, Paris shops must now cater to her own people. Everywhere one sees jewelers' shops with shutters up and the announcement, "Closed until after the war." Expensive linen shops, like the Maison de Blanc, have few cus- tomers, but the big department stores, such as the Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, are swarming with trade. Ch-^ap laces, artificial flowers. un- trin:med hats, and furs' are iloing a big business, for there are many peo- ple of the middle class that are mak- ing money in war supplies, and the next best thing to being thrifty is to be able to pick up a bargain in some- ihing that in former days would have been a luxury. The gay night life of Paris is great- ly subdued. The people still sip their coffee and liquors on the pavement at the open cafes, but the brilliant, swift- moving throng of the boulevard is greatly changed in character. The streets are not darkened at night, as they are in London and Edinburgh, but Paris is dim, few cf th.-, :;t.-cct lamps Pi: 'it, i.ie.i- f. :ir. '■ ■'■noTn; than fear of Zeppelins. Air raids have been seldom attempted. It is very difflcult to get a taxi at night, the Government limits the supply of gaso- line and the best chauffeurs arc off at the front. Those remaining are very independent and refuse to do night work, and since the motor omnibuses from some of the chief lines are being used at the front it makes it very difficult to gat about the streets of Paris after nightfall. I saw but few women chau.":eurs. France is bending every effort to find work for her mutilated soldiers, and the women can be used in the munition plants and to take the men's places in heavy work of the field, so every position that can be filled by a wounded soldier is reserved for them. The whole life of Paris centers around the war and its immediate needs. Every street has its quota of private homes turned for the mo- ment into hospitals for the wounded, or used as storehouses for supplies to be distributed among the vast army of refugees from the invaded district of Northern France and of Belgium that have sought asylum in Paris. People of wealth and social position devote themselves to service of some kind, either for the soldiers or their families. It is no longer considered good form to wear expensive costumes or jewels of any sort, and the thrift and economy that are necessary to save France as a nation are being practiced alike by both rich and poor, and all with a cheerfulness and brave spirit that redeems them from being sordid. Soldiers' Graves Dot Farms on Marne Battlefield It was a day late in September and a soft misty rain was falling when I took the train from Paris to Meaux to visit the battlefield of the Marne and to note how the scars of battle were being effaced from a countryside where less than two years before there had been fought one of the mostly hotly dis- puted and bloodiest battles of the war. For this was the high water mark of the German invasion. It was to this place on the Piiver Marne that Gallienl rushed his troops from Paris by rail, on foot, in taxicabs, omnibuses, motor lines, private automobiles and car- riages to stem the advancing tide of German soldiers befnre they could get within striking distance of Paris. • The twcnty-eighi mile run took about an hour from Paris, and it did not need much of an effort of the imagination to again people the long straight roads with a hurrying throng of soldiers in every conceivable type of vehicle, rushing with stern faces and grim deiermination to turn the enemy who had almost reached the gates of Paris. As we drew into the station I smiled at the recollection of the struggles of the English Tom- mies to pronounce the name Meaux; they called it "Mee-yow" — like a cai — just as they stumbled over Vielle Chapelle, which they called "Veal Chapel," and Ypres, whicli they pro- nounced "Wipers." A military pass is necessary in order to go out to the battlefield, but this had been duly obtained in Paris, by the foreign correspondent of The Eagle, with whom I made the trip, ' and bore on the front cover a dupli- cate of the photograph that was on my passport. The straight French road, with its occasional rows of poplars. ran through fields that had just been har- vested — they were dotted like a golf course with small tri-colored flags, each denoting a soldier's grave, some- times several soldiers in one grave, forty-three in one place. At the head of the grave a white cross bearing the uan^e of the solc'ier ?>nd his re?lmental ;•;•.•■'••■;--, rr.(i : ;>fl- ..'t it the «"£ '.':'''-.r. must have been thou.sands of them, and may Germans buried there, too; their graves marked with a black square on an upright, and labelled with their marks of identity. They were buried as they fell, and you could visualize the attack and repulse, by following the advancing line of Ger- man graves until it is met by a group of French graves and the two rows lie facing each other — peacefully enough now. I noticed a corked bottle containing a card tied on many of the French crosses, and I was deeply touched on reading one to find it was the praye" of a French mother to any French soldier to give her news of her son. who is missing and whom she be- lieved to have been killed at the Bat- tle of the Marne. Farmers have respected thesn graves, each with its litt'e barbed wlr« fence, and have ploughed and planted and have harvested around them— « but perhaps in a few years they will be obliterated unless the war ends and the French Government can remov* the bones to Paris and give them dig- nified sepulture. Nature heals mor*. quickly than man — already the torn battle fields ploughed with shot and shell have yielded a bountiful harvest, but for what man has sowed of his kind there will be no fruition on earth. The little villages still bear the scars of war, their walled buildings were deeply pitted by shells and the roofs tell the tale of recent reparation by patches of fresh terra-cotta tiles, or still havo gaping holes. Barcy, with its ancient church- seems to have been the center of som» special conflict. The churches were always made the first point of attack by the machine guns of the enemy, since there was danger that the bel- fries would serve as observation towers for the villagers, who could thus give warning of their approach. The church at Barcy is a completa ruin; a shell squarely hit the bel- fry and dislodged the bell, and the clock fell crashing through the tower to the pavement below. The beauti- f'l t:ronz? l.»ll lies tfosre unhurt, bul ' 12 The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE the clock is a jangled mass of rusting springs and wheels. The high altar is a wreck, and through the bare rafters one can see the sky. As I turned from the ruined church I looked down the an- cient cobbled street, with its gray houses ot stone and cement, and saw a pastoral scene — a flock of sheep on Its homeward way, followed by an ancient shepherdess, in weather bleached cape, and accompanied by her well trained, faithful dog. Our driver was filled with the true dramatic instinct, and, leaning back from his high seat, he asked in mys- terious tones if we desired to see "les Boches." Assenting, we dismounted, and to his repeated "doucement," we crept like conspirators to a small stone house with padlocked doors, and through the window we saw three German prisoners quite cheerfully and peacefully repairing some chairs. After this thrilling spectacle we •went to see the trenches. I had al- ways Imagined trenches to be ditches dug in straight line. I was astound- ed to find them a maze of zis zags not more than eight or ten feet without a sharp bend or turn. The driver said they were built that way so no ma- chine gun getting the range could make a clean sweep of the trench. I climbed down into them and walked along in the slippery mud, for I wanted the experience of being in a real trench. They were about seven feet deep and four feet wide; their sides were protected from caving in by roughly woven willow withes like coarse basket work; and on the side facing the enemy there ran a ledge about a foot high on which the soldier could stand to fire. As we drove hack through the flag- studded fields to the train I realized we were looking in the graves of men who had really saved France, and from every mound came the senti- ment: "Mon corps a la terre, Mon ame a Dieu, Mon coeur a la France." General Joffre Decorates the Heroes of France An announcement was made public In the Paris journals that at 2 o'clock on a certain day the soldiers were to be decorated at Les Invalides for spe- cial bravery, so I started out in the bright Paris sunshine in what I thought was ample time to see this touching ceremony. But as I cros.sed the bridge Alexandre III I saw a great crowd massed before the bronze gates in the Esplanade, and when I arrived at the Invalides. I found about five hundred people all eager to get beyond the gates and into the Inner court, where they could have a glimpse of the proceedings. A long row of policemen kept the people in order, and the situation looked hope- less to me till I recalled Lord North- cllffe's inspiring suggestion that you could do anything If you wanted to hard enough, and I certainly did want to get into that court. So I plucked up courage and said to the nearest police- man In my very best French, "Will you have the kindness to take me to your chief?" Saluting me with solem- nity he led me to an officer with much gold braid on his hat. I smiled cor- dially at him and said: "Monsieur le Captalne, I am an Amer- ican and have no card of admission, but I want very much to see you dec- orate your brave soldiers. I know you can pass me through if you will, and I am going to ask you to do me that favor." "Madame," said he, "do you see that long line of people, each one as eager AS you to be admitted?" "Yes," said I, "but they seem to be all French people, and they could come again; but I am sailing in two days for the United States and this is my one opportunity, for when I return to la belle France war will be ended." He smiled genially and said: "Madame, j o'u a»g""i°i'f '•-- " m ing," and greatly to my delight he took my arm and led me not only past the gates but through the throng, and I found a splendid point of vantage in the front row of an open balcony. It was an interesting sight. The beautiful Cour d'Honneur, built by Louis XIV, with its double tier of open balconies, crowded with people, and in the open square a velvet draped table on which were the medals with their bright ribbons. Napoleon had often stood in this same square to decorate his soldiers, and today another mili- tary hero, the idol of the people. Gen- eral Joffre, also a man below middle stature like Napoleon, was performing the same gracious act. He was simply dressed in red trous- ers, blue coat and red cap; no gold lace, no decorations beyond the insignlas of his rank. Around the table was formed a hol- low square— a pitiful array of pale and wounded men, each standing as straight as possible to receive this honor. One side of the square was formed by a thin line of officers. Gen- eral Joffre kissed each one on both cheeks as he pinned on his decoration. Two other sides of the square were formed by several rows of wounded soldiers. To each of them General Joffre spoke a personal word as he pinneti on the medal handed him by the assisting General Coussin. One of the wounded, unable to stand the strain, fainted away and was lifted by his comrades and carried under my balcony, where he was revived by two nursing sisters, and General Jofire stepped from the ranks to speak a spe- cial word to him and decorate him, so I liad a good opportunity to look on this greatest of living French military heroes. He had a rare expression of tender- ness on a face that was strong and keen and practical; his eyes burned with a steady" determined light. He seldom smiled and spoke deliberately in a vibrant, low voice. The fourth side of the square was most pathetic of all; it was formed by the widows and orphans of tnose sol- diers who had died before their hei'o- ism could receive public recognition, and the Government was giving their medals to their wives or, if they were not living, to the orphans. I was interested in the three kinds of medals, the Croix de Guerre, a bronze raaltese cross on a green and red striped ribbon on which was either a star or a palm, the one for a citation for an aifny corps, and the other for a citation by the army for bravery. Medaille Militaire— Gold and silver medal on a yellow ribbon bordered with blue, for special valor or service. Legion d'honneur— Enameled maltese cross on plain red ribbon. This was the highest honor, and rarely given. It meant service of a most distinguished character. Dui-ing the decorating a military band played in the Court, and I was glad to recognize many of Sousa's marches. It was well we had music, for many were quietly weeping as they saw these brave fellows being deco- rated and realized that the crosses pi-nned on them were only symbolic of the crosses that are not visible, but which these wounded men must bear while they live. American War Relief Distribution in France War lays a heavy hand on France, and everyone is paying toll in service to the wounded or caring for the nearly destitute families of the soldiers whose small separation allowance is not enough for their needs, Thetv there are the war babies and helpless orphans, and the refugees from Belgium and Northern France, now occupied by the Germans, who have swarmed to Paris seeking shelter and food. Blind soldiers, who must be taught to work; mutilated men who must learn to make a living else they will either become human derelicts or commit, suicide. There are so iriany •'•■'iTi.= cii i-.ii. ; -i^i'hj ar.-l r'fy that it would be unbearable if you did not get a glimpse of the other side and become fired with enthusi- asm and admiration at the spirit of generosity, self-sacrifice and helpful- ness shown toward these victims of war. These works of secours of all kinds are legion, but there is not a single important one that has not felt the generous support of Ameri:;an money or the volunteer service of American workers and this has preserved the entente cordiale between us, this gen- erous response of America to Eu- rope's desperate need. No matter ..liat ?r'ti"ism is maie of tho AmerU The Eagle Library— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE 13 can Government, there is nothing but love and cordial appreciation of what American citizens have done. . I was particularly impressed witn the wonderful system by which American contributions find the way to their destinations in France. This is done through the American Relief Clearing House, which has re- ceived and shipped thousands of cases, bales and packages, ranging from a small private donation of a dozen articles to great cases contain- ing hundreds of dozens. These goods are brought over from America free of freight charges by the French line to Bordeaux, the French Government admits them free of customs duties, and gives them free transport over all the railroads in France. The sys- tem of distribution is perfect. It is American eriiciency developed to its highest power. The office is in the beautiful build- ing on the Rue Francois I that used to be the American Embassy, and here is to be found the directing power of the whole system, J. R. Barbour, who in distributing these gifts, also sends personal letters ex- pressing the sympathy of the Ameri- can people and the honor they feel in being able to do a little to dis- charge the debt that America owes to France. Thus the donations are robbed of that hated odor of charity which would be so offensive to the sensitive spirit of the French. I met a young woman from Boston, a college girl who had devoted her vacation time to hospital distribution work. She drove her own car at home, so was given the work of dis- tributing in Paris and down through the Chateaux district. Another young woman went with her, and they were given a car full of supplies for hospi- tals en route. She said it was the most wonderful vacation she had ever spent, they were received every- where with the utmost cordiality by the French people, always were able to get gasoline, which is one of the greatest problems in France, and found willing hands to help in case of tire trouble. How France Disposes of Her Wounded There are hundreds of hospitals in Paris and throughout France supported by private bounty or by the Red Cross, or under direct Government control. • The general system of disposing of the wounded Is to take them direct from the firing line to the base hospital back of the trenches, where they re- ceive "first aid" and are ticketed with the nature of their wound and expe- dited to Paris. Cases needing immediate surgical treatment are sent to Paris hospitals, those that can stand the trip are re- distributed to hospitals along the coast and elsewhere in France by the network of railways that center in Paris. Probably the most famous Ameri- can hospital is the American .Ambu- lance at Xeuilly, just outside of Paris, of which Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt and Miss .A.ntie Morgan are prominent donors and sponsors, and where both have served as nurses. Some confu- sion has arisen on this side, because the word "ambulance" in French means hospital, while the vehicle they call a "motor-ambulance." I spent a most interesting afternoon with Mrs. George Monroe, the head of this institution, whose beautiful home in Paris was one of the social centers before the war. Now she is devoting her lite to this work. The American Ambulance is housed In the old Lycee Pasteur, an institu- tion belonging to the French Govern- ment and turned over by it to a com- mittee of Americans in Paris, who saw the immediate need of such a hos- pital, at the beginning of the war. The Viuilding was in a condition of semi- ruin, nothiiia but the walls, fioors and roof — not even windows and doors. With incredible speed it was re- paired, painted, fitted with plumbing, and furnished by American energy and money, and it now has 600 beds and 3 operating rooms, 85 American trained nurses, who are paid, and a corps of volunteer auxiliary nurses, American, English and French. The ambulances are run by young Ameri- can men who daily bring the wounded from the railroad station of La Chapelle, where all the wounded ar- rive from the fighting front. One of the drivers told me of a touching incident that had happened the day before. When he was bringing in his load of wounded, a convalescent soldier in the court yard rushed for- ward and the orderlies could hardly restrain him from embracing the man on the stretcher. It was his brother, whom he had not seen or heard of since the beginning of the war and whom he had believed dead. The surgical work at this hospital is specially fine. Many American sur- geons and dentists give their services for a short time, and in return gain a wonderful practical experience. The work in jaw building is most remarkable. The developments In each case are followed up by series of photographs and plaster casts. The greatest triumph was a man whose lower jaw had been completely shot away. A piece was taken from each of his shin bones to form a new jaw, and by a slow process of skin grafting a new jaw was built and made to grow. It had taken more than a year, but I saw and spoke to the young man, a boy of 20, and he was not at all a repulsive sight. He could talk and cat soft food and was almost ready to leave the hospital and take up his life again. Finding Work for Blind Soldiers Tlie second phase of the problem in France is what to do with the cripples when they are well enough to leave the hospitals. These maimed men must be taught to be self-supporting, and the re-education of the mutilated is as important as the care of the wounded. At the Grand Palais in the Champs Elysees hundred of cripples are being taught some trade in which they can use the limbs remaining to them. The blind soldiers, men who are doomed to darkness all their lives, made a special appeal to me. The only way to keep them sane is to make them useful. The Lighthouse for the Blind, a French branch of the one in New York, established by the New York Association for the Blind, of which Joseph Choate is the president, was opened in August by Miss Winifred Holt in Paris, with whom I took tea one afternoon, I was much inter- ested in her practical schemes for arousing the interest of the blind. There was on the edge of the desk near the visitor's chair a small bronze elephant. "He is one of my best friends," she said. "When I have a blind soldier brought in to me for the first time he. sits hopelessly in that chair, and it is my business to get hold of him. Presently, after the manner of the blind, his hands vaguely grope as he talks, and soon fall on the elephant, and I say, 'What are you touching?' In a moment he has run his hand along the animal and says, 'An ele- phant.' Then I can show hihi he need not despair since he can see with his hands." , , At this lighthouse the blind are taught many trades, machine knit- ting, typewriting, rug and basket weaving, pottery mending, piano tun- ing and massage. They discover that the only way to learn how to be blind is to find light througli work. I saw a touching episode at the "Quinze-Vingt," a semi-military hos- pital in the Latin Quarter for eye casps. In the entrance corridor a young soldier, with bandaged eyes, had just been told by a nursing sister that the operation by which he had hoped to regain his sight had proved unsuccess- ful and he would never see again. He received the news silently, but 14 The Eagle Library-WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE dropped forward in an attitude of deepest despair, with his hands be- tween his knees. Just at that mumont his mother and aunt arrived from the provinces to visit their wounded soldier and the sister at the door told them the sad news and led them toward the boy. Speechless with grief they sat down quietly near him. overcome by the eight of his suffering. The nurse then said to nim: "Your mother and aunt are here." "Where are they?" "Put out your hand and you will touch them." With the appealing gesti-re of the blind he gropingly foimd his mother's knee. With a glad cry of relief and Joy he threw himself on her breast and said: "O, my mother, ^•ou are all that remains to me." And I saw that mother encircle her boy with loving arms, set aside her own grief and rise with splendid self- control to meet the new demand upon her. It typified to mo the spirit of the women of France — that splendid spirit which has regenerated France and lifted her above the horrors of the mud and mutilation of the trenches. The spirit of the women who first bravely gave their men for the service of their country and then receive them broken and mangled and with infinite patience and love help them to reconstruct their lives and teach them to live again. Once in France It Is Hard to Get Out A^ain War-time regulations in regard to espionage make it just as difficult to leave Paris as it is to try to enter there. Military rules insist that you shall either pass directly through Paris with not more than twenty-tour hours stay, or else be detained fourteen days while your record and your identity are be- ing established. The French officials in London were courteous bnl vague. They shrugged their shoulders, reminded me that it was war time and the pri- vate schedules of travelers were no concern of the government, but final- ly they wrote the full circumstances on the back of my passport and duly gave it the official .stamp and seal. So it was with a feeling of hope that I applied at the steamship office in Paris for reservations on the Espagne. They would do nothing for me until I could show them my "Sauf Conduit" and permission to depart signed by the police. 1 first had to go to otir consul gen- eral, Mr. Thackeray, and receive the official recognition and sanction of the United States, then present myself at the French Prefecture of Police, where I stood nearly three hours in a line in a cold, draughty stone cor- ridor awaiting my turn. The police official who took my rase In hand at first demanded a photo- graph — but my supply had been ex- hausted and it had not occurred to me that they would ask for a photo- graph when you left the country. My experience in traveling had made me feel that they would be so glad to see you go that they wouldn't try to retain even a picture of you. It was an anxious moment for me, and I saw that I might be detained until after the sailing of my boat. Just for the lack of an extra photograph. So I spurred up my somewhat lim- ited French to meet the occasion, and fcy dint of courteous persuasiveness I argued and entreated until I saw signs of capitulation on the face of that serious and conscientious police- man, who seemed to find logic in my statement tliat I was going back home and nothing could induce me to visit his beautiful country again until peace was restored and she had reinstated the American traveler in her affec- tions. He consented to forego the photo- graph and reluctantly passed me along to the next in line, and by a slow proc- ess I reached the exit and was hand- ed my passport with its final French stamp and farewell vise. On the day of my departure, as I drove up to the station Quai d'Orsay, I noticed a crowd quickly forming. From the limousine that preceded my humble taxi four strong porters car- ried a sort of sedan chair in shafts, and the cccupant was the divine Sarah. I knew her at once by her hair, glowing a marvelous red beneath her traveling toque. It was 7:45 a.m. and at that hour even geniuses may be permitted to be in a state of partial eclipse, but Sarah Bernhardt tran- scended the human frailty and was smilingly responsive to the farewell enthusiasm of her beloved Parisians. And somehow I was conscious of the warmth of her personality all the long eight hours during which we Jour- neyed on the same train to Bordeaux, for she. too. was sailing on the Espagne for New York. In passing through the large towns I noticed in the outskirts long rows of newly constructed sheds where French women were turning out mu- nitions for their poilus at the front. The little villages were almost empty except for a few old men or- wounded sold'e-s home on leava, and ■n— 1VS the ubiquitous small boy. who in France wears a black cotton llnusc shirred on a yoke which thriftily pro- tects his suit. In the fields I saw only women and Austrian prisoners gathering the har- vest, and as we went further south into the grape district I saw them treading the grapes to make wine. . Husky prisoners with bare feet, and troustrs rolled to the thigh, were stamping the purple grapes which had been piled to the brim of huge wooden vats. Under the pressure the Juice pressed from the grapes ran from a spigot below, but a close view of this primitive operation was calculated to rob anyone of the desire to drink "vin ordinaire." It was an interesting shipload — Ma- dame Bernhardt. Lina Cavallen, Mme. Montesori, Monsier Dalmores. Herr Speck of the Metropolitan, and other celebrities — all Just as uncomfortable in a heavy sea as we lesser mortals, for old Neptune is no respector of persons. A curious disturbance arose when we were near enough home to send radiographs via Cape PLace to our friends announcing our arrival. Sud- denly, by the captain's orders, no more could be sent. Then it was observed that we had changed our course and were heading due south with great speed. Rumors of all kinds began to spread, and the anxiety was not less- ened by the stewardess asking us to try on our life-belts to be sure wa could adjust them, and a printed no- tice was slipped under the door of my cabin saying that in case of aban- donment of ship my place would be No. 22 in lifeboat No. !). I promptly went up on the top dock and located the boat so I could find it in a moment in the dark. Another night of darkened ship and then we steamed peacefully back north in the protection of our three- mile limit — we must have gone south as far as Baltimore before we started to turn inshore. The next morning at Quarantine we read in the New York papers the story of the U-53 and realized that our ship was the special prize for which she had been looking, since the Espagne was the largest merchant ship of the Allies due in New Y'ork at that time. We had been warned by wireless Just as we were entering the zone of operations, and without a sign turned and fled south. It was with a greater Joy than usual that I greeted the Statue of Liberty, which always typifies homecoming to me, and as we slowly pushed our way along the dock into our berth, and tha faces of the waiting crowd became the faces of individuals, I was over- whelmed with a tremendous thank- fulness that we are not living in the actual shadow of war times; that the sad sights on the other side have no counterparts over here, and I devout- ly hoped that we Americans might learn our lesson from Europe at war and not be called upon to sacrifice all we love and hold most dear in order to preserve our existence and the purity of our naUoiml ideals. The Eagle LIbrary-WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE 15 o 3 =r (D DO 3 O 3 > 3 re 3 CTQ O 3 <-»■ 3* n 3- re o 33 m Orq §■ re 3 W 3 C/) q1 re' 16 The Eagle L^rary— WHAT I SAW IN ENGLAND AND FRANCE ^'SJs/asffiEifflHJSiaiHaiajajMiaMSJSJSMSMaisMsiaEisiaMa'BisisMaM^ Eiaiajajsiai3jaMsiaiaJSiaiaEi3ii5''s^| 1917 EAGLE ALMANAC OUT IN JANUARY WORLD WAR REVIEW AND OFFICIAL ELECTION RETURNS SPECIAL FEATURES- PRICE $1.00 Subscription to Eagle Library, Including Almanac, $ 1 .50 ^|!f I y^f2J2J2ISMSfMSJSISMS/3EJ2JSr2J3J2I2fSf3JMS^^ statement of the ownership, oianagement. cir- culation, etc., required by the Act of Con;;resa of August '24. lOlli. of The Eagle Library, pub- Uphcd every moiitb at Brooklyn, N. Y.. for Cfctober 1st. IDIG. State of New York. County of Kings, ss. : *Before nie. a notary public in and for the State fltid f'ounty aforesaid, personally appeared Herbert F. Gunnison, who. li;iving been duly sworn ac- cording to law. deposes and says that he Is the business ni.inager of The Brooklyn Eagle Library, and that the following is. to the best of hU knowledge and belief, a true statement of the ownership, management, etc.. of the aforesaid publication for the date shown in the above raptlon. required by the Act of August 24. 1912, ejbbodled in section 443, Postal Laws and Regulations. 1. That the named and addresses of the pub- lisher. etlUor. managing editor, and business mnnag'^r are : PublUhf-r. The Brooklyn Pally Eagle, The Eagle Building. Brooklvn. N. Y. Editor. Harry E. Shelland, The Eagle Build- ing. Brooklyn. N. Y, Business mnnaeer. Herbert F. Gnnsleon, The Engle Building. Brooklyn. N. T. JL That ihe names and addresses of ctock- holders holding 1 per cent, or more of the Cotal amount of stock are: William Hester. Brooklyn. N. Y. : William T. Hester, Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Herbert F. Gunnison, Brooklyn. N. Y. ; William N. Dykman, Brooklyn. N. Y. : William Hester and William V. Hesf^r. trustees for Natalie Hester Cleveland, Jennie Hester Stewart. Arthur W. Hester, Brooklvn. N. Y. : Estate of St. Clair McKelway, Brook- lyn, N. Y. ; Brooklyn Trust Co. and Frank A. Keeney. executors of will Seth L. Keeney, Brooklyn, N. Y. : The Estate of William Zlegler, Manhattan. N. Y. : Seth A. Keeney. Santa Bar- bara, CjiI. : Los Angeles Trust and Savings Bank. Los Angeles, Cal ; Mrs. Angle Keeney Schwpgel. Brooklyn, N. Y. ; Edgar M. Cullen, trustee for Anna K. Tliayer and Halstead Swan, Brooklyn. N. Y. : Brooklyn Trust Company, trus- tee for the Estntp of Thomas Kinsellu. Hannah K, Pagelow. Klngskv Swan, and executor will J^rah D. Kingsley. Brooklyn. N. Y. : Susan fi. Brlglinm. Klncston. N. Y. ; Anna I-. O'Neil, Kingston. N. Y. ; Cora M. O'Neil. Kingston, N.Y. 3, Tliat the known bondholders, naortg-igew, and oiHier perurlty holdrrs owning or bokllng 1 per cent, or more of tnfal :itiiiMi'it ot botiOa. mortgageB or oihcr eecurltlts: NONE. 4. That the two paragraphs next aboTe, flvlnj the names of the owners, stockholders, and security holders. If any. contain not only ths list of stockholders and securttj holders as they appear upon the books of the company, but also. In cases where the stockholder or security holder appears upon the books of the company as trustee or in any other fiduciary relation, the name of the person or corporation for whom such trustee Is acting. Is given ; also that the said two paragraphs contain statements embracing affiant's full knowledge and belief as to the rlrcumstance* and conditions under which stockholders and securltj holders who do not appear upon tho books of the company as trustees, hold stock and securities in a capacity other than that of a bona tide owner; and this affiant has no reason to l>elieve that any other person, association, or eorporation has an.T Interest direct or lndir<*ct in the said stock, bonds, or other securities thaa as so stoted by him. HERBERT F. OLNNISOV. Business Manager. 8 worn to and subscribed before me this Sd da7 of Oetober, lUlO. rSeal] C. R, GRIFFIN. Notary IVibllo, Kings County, V. Ti (My i:ommlBHloD expires March 30, lOlT.} OVER 6000 BROOKLYN WOMEN Have already been given Certificates of Proficiency for completing The Brooklyn Union Gas Co.'s course of FREE COOKING LESSONS The course comprises six lectures, a different one being given each day during the week In the Auditorium of the GAS DEMONSTRATION BUILDING 180 Remsen Street Near Borough Hall At these Lectures Miss Dorothy S. Buckley and her Assistants demonstrate How to buy without waste. The proper prepzuration of foods. The relative nutritive value of foods. The economical operation of the gas range, and the avoidance of food shrinkage in cooking. To the young woman contemplating housekeeping, these lessons are of the utmost value, and even the experienced cook carries away with her some new idea, hint or recipe. AttendThese Free Cooking Lessons NOW Daily from 2 to 4 P. M. The Brooklyn Union Gas Company Domestic Science Division 180 Remsen Street, near Borough HaJl LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 020 914 466 9 The Peoples Trust Company INCORPORATED 1889 181-183 MONTAGUE STREET, BROOKLYN BRANCHES AT NOSTRAND AVENUE. CORNER HERKIMER STREET CUNTON AVENUE. CORNER MYRTLE AVENUE FIFTH AVENUE. CORNER FIFTY-FOURTH STREET 43 FLATBUSH AVENUE. NEAR FULTON STREET CAPITAL AND SURPLUS $2,600,000.00 Member of the New York Clearing House DIRECTORS J. G. DETTMER Retired HORACE J. MORSE A. M. Kidder & Co. WILLIAM B. HILL Lawyer HOWARD M. SMITH President Brevoort Savings Bank DAVID A. BOODY Boody. McLellan & Co. HERBERT L. PRATT Charles Pratt & Co. WILLIAM C. COURTNEY Lawyer WILLIAM H. GOOD Lawyer W. EUGENE KIMBALL R. J. Kimball & Co. ADRIAN T. KIERNAN Lawyer CHARLES M. ENGLIS John Englis & Co. WILLIAM E. HARMON Wood. Harmon & Co. CHARLES A. BOODY Presidtnt of the Company MAX RUCKGABER. JR Schulz & Ruckgaber WALTER V. CRANFORD President Cranford Co. CHARLES E. ROBERTSON Brooklyn Lumber Co. JAMES H. JOURDAN President Brooklyn Union Gas Co. JOHN F. HILDEBRAND President Shultz Bread Co. IriOMAS E. MURRAY Vice President New York Edison Co. GEORGE W. DAVISON Vice President Central Trust Co. of N. Y. A.NDREW D. BAIRD President The Williamsburgh Savings Bank ALBERT TAG President The German-American Bank of N. Y. FRANCIS L. NOBLE Noble & Camp Firms and individuals carrying their accounts with The Peoples Trust Com afforded the fullest measure of co-operation and accommodation in keeping wit' servative principles. INTEREST ALLOWED ON DEPOSITS ivitfreon-