685' ^ " J) ©9 urpjjg WHITE MAN^S FOOT IN KANSAS." AN ADDRESS By John B. Dunbar, of Bloomfield, N. ./., At The Pawnee Village, Republic County, Kansas, September 27, 1906, Celebrating the One Hundredth Anniversary of the Flag in Kansas. Published by the Kansas State Historical Society. Sfibii STATE printing OFFICE. T0PP:KA, 1908. Book ^-1 "THE WHITE MAN'S FOOT IN KANSAS." AN ADDRESS By John B. Dunbar, of Bloomfield, N. J. , At The Pawnee Village, Republic County, Kansas, September 27, 1906, Celebrating the One Hundredth Anniversary of the Flag in Kansas. 7 Published by the Kansas State Historical Society. state printing office, TOPEKA, 1908. Reprinted from Volume X, Kansas Historical Collections. Gift 19Ap'09 ■ i THE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION AT PIKE'S PAWNEE VILLAGE. ON the 14th of May, 1906, the people of Republic City held a public meet- irifj, under the auspices of the Pawnee Historical Society, and unani- mously resolved to celebrate the one hundredth anniversary of the visit of Lieut. Zebulon Montp:oniory Pike to their neighborhood in the fall of 1806. It was further determined to have a four days' celebration, September 26 to 29, 1906; that Wednesday, the 26th, be Woman's day; Thursday, the 27th, Historical day; Friday, the 28th, Grand Army day; and Saturday, the 29th, Pike's day. The following committee on finance was agreed upon by the meeting: H. H. Smith and M. C. Policy, Republic City; A. W. Vale, Web- ber; 0. H. Durand, N. H. Angle, Elizabeth A. Johnson, Republic City; and Thomas Charles, of Belleville. This committee was authorized to give Kansas, for her first centennial, a demonstration as nearly equal as possible to the event which happened at the Pawnee village September 29, 1806. After the meeting the aforesaid committee appointed other committees, as follows: General Arrangements : N. H. Angle, H. H. Smith, T. J. Charles. J. W. Ambrose, E. D. Haney, A. B. Evans, W. S. Lower, and S. Eddy. , Music: Mrs. Eva Moore, Dr. D. E. Foristall, Mrs. J. W. Ambrose, and H. E. Clark. A variety of entertainment features were provided. Four batteries of United States artillery were sent from Fort Riley, and an elaborate program arranged. Everything was in perfect readiness on the opening day. The park, underneath the hill upon which stands the monument, was amply pro- vided with booths, platforms, and seats. The weather for the four days was ideal, and the attendance large, culminating, on Saturday, the 29th, with an enormous crowd. The village site and park is two miles from the nearest railroad, at Republic city, and is accessible only by wagon travel. Several bands from neighboring towns were in attendance. Wednesday, the 26th, Woman's day, was in charge of Mrs. J. D. McFar- land, president of the Woman's Kansas Day Club. The ceremonies opened with "A Woman's Greeting," by Mrs. E. W. Hoch. Mrs. Noble L. Prentis spoke in behalf of the Kansas Federation of Women's Clubs; Mrs. Charles E. Adams, of Superior, Neb., ex-president of the National Woman's Relief Corps, spoke on "Good Citizenship"; Mrs. Albert H. Horton, of Topeka, representing Mrs. Donald McLean, president general, spoke of the "Daugh- ters of the American Revolution. ' ' In the afternoon, Mrs. Lilla Day Monroe, of Topeka, represented the Kansas Equal Suffrage Association, Mrs. Eva M. Murphy, of Goodland, the Kansas Woman's Christian Temperance Union, and Mrs. Cora G. Lewis, of Kinsley, the Woman's Kansas Day Club, in an address, "A Romance Century." Mrs. Elma B. Dalton. of Winfield, spoke in behalf of the Ladies of the Grand Army of the Republic. These papers exhibited the progress and accomplishments of women during the one hundred years under the Hag. September 27, Historical day, the following addresses were given: "The 4 Kansas State Historical Society. White Man's Foot in Kansas," written by Prof. John B. Dunbar, of Bloom- field, N. J., and read by Mrs. Cora G. Lewis, of Kinsley; "The Pawnees, As I Knew Them," by James R. Mead, of Wichita, read by M. C. Polley, member of the legislature from Republic county; "Characters and Incidents of the Plains," by William E. Connelley, of Topeka. read by Mrs. Elma B. Dalton, of Winfield; and "The First Two Years of Kansas," an address by Geo. W. Martin, secretary of the State Historical Society. Rev. Dr. J. A. Sutton closed the exercises of the day with an able address on "Providence in History." Capt. Patrick H. Coney, department commander of Kansas, was president of the day September 28. "The Grand Army of the Republic, Its Attain- ments and Its Mission," was the subject of an address by Captain Coney. C:ipt. Charles E. Adams, of Superior, Neb., ex-department commander of that state, next spoke on "Patriotism"; and Hon. W. A. Calderhead, member of Congress from the fifth district, closed the day with a stirring address. By order of State Supt. I. L. Dayhoff, every public school in Kansas de- voted an hour this Friday afternoon to the story of "Pike and the Flag" — the 300,000 school children of Kansas acting in unison with the services at Pawnee village. Saturday, the 29th, was the real anniversary of the incident which oc- curred at the Pawnee village September 29, 1806, as related by Lieutenant Pike: "After a silence of some time an old man arose, went to the door, took down the Spanish flag, brought it, and laid it at my feet; he then re- ceived the American flag, and elevated it on the staff which had lately borne the standard of his Catholic majesty. This gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American protection." The people of the surrounding country for miles, even across the line into Nebraska, seemed to have quit business for the day, and passed into the grove until there was scarcely room to contain them. Wagons, car- riages, guns and horses were so thick that inextricable confusion would have resulted but for the creditable management of the local committees. Gov. E. W. Hoch made an address on "This Country of Ours." Gomer T. Davies gave an account of the neighborhood efforts to establish the loca- tion of the village; and Hon. Chester I Long, United States senator, ar- rived in time from Colorado Springs, where he made the principal address at a like celebration on the 27th, to make an address on the subject of "Kansas." Colorado celebrated from the 23d to the 29th of September. Several exhibition drills were given by the Second, Twenty-second and Thirty-fifth batteries of artillery, under command of Captain Mott. On Pike's day the flag was raised over the village site with military honors, and a short address was made by Governor Hoch. After the close of Senator Long's speech, George W. Martin, Secretary of the State Historical Society, spoke as follows: The Woman's Kansas Day Club was organized to fill a long felt want. For many years we have had a Kansas Day Club, that is, an organization for celebrating the 29th of January, the day Kansas was admitted into the Union. But that is a Republican partisan organization, limited to men who, in addition to assuming vast credit, discuss party policies, and put up a job or two, or perhaps three ; anyhow, always absolutely selfish. A Centennial Celebration at Pike's Pawnee Village. Hrected bv the State of Knusas, moi. To mark the site of the rawnoe Republic, where LiEiT. ZKnri.oN M. Tike caused the Spanish flap to be lowered and the (lag of llic rnit, 180C. 6 Kansas State Historical Society. couple of years ago some women, who thought they had as much interest in the natal day of our state as the men, concluded to organize along patri- otic lines solely. Their purpose is to cultivate state pride among women, and at the same time as far as possible secure due credit for their sisters in the wonderful history- making peculiar to Kansas. At their first meeting they presented to the State Historical Society a very rich painting of Sara T. D. Robinson, the widow of the first governor of the state, still Hving. They resolved that their work for this year should be some assistance to this delightful success, the celebration of Pike's visit to Republic county, and an acknowledgment of the first act of United States sovereignty over Kansas and Colorado asserted by him on yonder hill. So we have here with us from all parts of the state eighteen or twenty members of this woman's organization. Besides assisting here, this body caused meetings to be held yesterday afternoon in 5000 school districts of Kansas, where the story of Pike and the flag in Republic county was told to more than a quarter of a million children. Can you grasp what that means? While the Grand Army from this platform was giving patriotic lessons, the entire population of the state was acting in unison with you. Could anything be more inspiring or serviceable? The women have struck the key-note of patriotism and usefulness. Most people have a funny idea of history. They think it comes from governors, senators, politicians, and those who obtain some notoriety. They are off. It comes from you folks who work on the farms. True, there must be leaders and bosses, but if you stop for a season or two rais- ing corn and alfalfa and wheat, the leaders and bosses will have to walk out. The greater part of history is made by the daily toilers— people in the humbler walks of life. The State Historical Society, as compared with similar institutions, has a remarkable collection, and is doing a remarkable work. There are from 100 to 200 visitors roaming through the corridors of the state-house every day. Many of them are travelers and sightseers from other states. I talk with a great many of them. They tell stories about men whose pictures are on the wall, and they ask many questions. On the walls, among the portraits of many eminent characters in Kansas history, we have a life- size photograph of Mrs. Elizabeth A. Johnson. The question is universally asked, "Why is that woman here among these governors and other distin- guished men? " I have repeated the story probably a thousand times in the past five or six years, that Mrs. Johnson is the wife of a farmer in Republic county; that she spent years in searching for the village site where Lieuten- ant Pike caused this change of flags, with only 22 American soldiers amid 1400 Indians, and 350 Spanish cavalrymen lurking around in the neighborhood; that she bought the land to keep it from being plowed up; that she pre- sented it to the state; that she induced the legislature to spend $3000 in marking the site. I have told this to eastern women, who didn't have the slightest idea that any such thing ever occurred on these prairies, and they stood before me absolutely thrilled. A farmer's wife to do this, out in the country, with farms only surrounding it; and not in some elegant city park ? I believe they thought more of this act than that of twenty soldiers. They universally responded, "Surely this woman is entitled to a place in a his- torical collection. " I could name a sco're or more of m^n, on the same walls, who all combined have not done as much entitling them to a place there. Centennial Celebration at Pike's Paivnee Village. 7 Now is it any wonder that our sisters of the Woman's Kansas Day Club are so interested in the Pike celebration, and that they want the record made complete in the adoption of a resolution acknowledging faint credit for one to whom much credit is due. Representing the State Historical Society, which will preserve a full account of this splendid occasion. I now call upon Mrs. Lewis. Mrs. J. M. Lewis, jr., offered the following resolution: Whereas, The supreme glory of the state is the sacred spot where the flag is first exalted in the name of our country; therefore, we believe the site of the Pawnee village, being the spot where Lieutenant Pike first raised the stars and stripes in our state, should be held in reverence in the hearts of every loyal Kansan; therefore, be it Resolved, That we, the people assembled to commemorate the first cen- tennial anniversary of the removal of the Spanish flag from the soil of the United States, hereby express to Mr. and Mrs. George Johnson our sincere appreciation and loving gratitude for preserving for us and our children the place where our beloved flag was first raised. We believe that the lowering of the flag of one nation and the establishment of the sovereignty of another, in the name of peace and without bloodshed, to be one of the things that consecrates our state and lights the way to the universal peace which is the hope of Christian civilization. Therefore, Mr. and Mrs. George Johnson have given us the most sacred spot on Kansas soil, the site of the Pawnee village, now marked by the state with a granite monument in honor of Zebu- Ion M. Pike; therefore, be it further Resolved, That it is our privilege on this memorable occasion to publicly tender to Mr. and Mrs. Johnson the tribute of our love and gratitude. ' Mrs. J. M. Lewis, jr., Kinsley, Chairman. Mrs. E. W. Hoch, Marion. Mr. Geo. W. Martin, Topeka. Governor Hoch moved the adoption of the resolutions, and United States Senator Long seconded the motion. The resolutions were adopted by a rising vote of the large assembly. Note 1. — At the close of the anniversary. Saturday evening, the 29th, Mrs. Johnson prave her house party of forty gruests a banquet, with Mrs. Cora G. Lewis as toastmistress. Addresses were made by Senator Long, Governor Hoch. and Captain Mott, of the reprular army. At the meetintr of the Woman's Kansas Day Club, January 29, 1907, the ladies constituting the guests of Mrs. Johnson for the week made Mrs. Johnson a gift of a gold badge, George W. Martin making the i)re8entation address as follows: "My sympathies are very strongly with the Woman's Kansas Day Club, because you observe the natal day of the state along proper lines — patriotism and history. There is one fact I will re- peat and empha.size on all occa.sions, and that is, that women are not properly recognized in the history of Kansas. Looking through the Annals of Kansas the other day for something else, my eyes hit the following, concerning the days of li^.V): " The women of Kansas suffered more than the men! and were not loss heroic. Their names are not known : they were not elected to office; they had none of the exciting deli^rht.s of an active outdoor life on these attractive prairies: they endured in silence: they took care of the home, and of the sick: if ' home they brought her war- rior dead, she nor swooned, nor uttered sigh." " "Now, Mrs. Johnson, you are not arraigned before this interesting assembly as a horrible specimen of territorial fir pioneer woe. Your innate disposition to be clever and helpful, your broad acres, pleasant and hospit.ible home, and splendid companion (male, of course) who shares with you, give us to know that you have always had a good time. We are not here, however, to celebrate the giKxl tiini's you have had : but we do sincerely and joyously desire to celebrate the good times you have given others. I have been to your home six times in the past five years, in the interest of an historical task — caused and consumated by yourself. There is no necessity on this your guests for a week. You had over thirty with you for five days. Everything was as free as water from the time we left the train until we returned to the train for homo, and your watchfulness for the comfort of all was Kansas State Historical Society. A PEACE DANCE FOREVER. Leavenworth, Kan, , September 25, 1906. Geo. W. Martin, Secretary of Kansas State Historical Society, Topeka, Kan.: My Dear Sir and Friend— I have your notice of "the one hundredth anniversary of the unfurling of the American flag on Kansas soil," etc., and fully intended to be with you at "Pawnee village" on the 29th inst., to celebrate my seventy-eighth birthday and pursuit of Pawnees through the country more than fifty-six years ago— June, 1850, but I am sorry to say that my health will not permit me to make the journey. Of the Pawnees then living it is safe to say that all. through their devious ways, have landed upon the "happy hunting-grounds," where the white man has ceased from troubling and the weary warriors are at rest. Of the pursuing party, so far as I know, I am the only one left, and if in the final wind-up I find my comrades in as safe a haven as the Pawnees hoped for we will have a peace dance that shall last forever. I sincerely hope that during the celebration you may be blessed with such an Indian summer as can be found nowhere outside of Kansas, and that every man, woman and child may thank God that his or her lot has been cast within the charmed circle. If Lieutenant Pike could have known how near the heart of the best of earth he was planting his flag, and the wonderful people and institutions that were to grow up around it, he should have been a happy man. With best wishes for all that you and the celebration represent, I am, sincerely your friend, P. G. Lowe. beyond any words of mine to state. And the four days of patriotism, oratory and artillery closed with a banquet at your house Saturday evening-, September 29, equal to the Waldorf, and for happy and solid talk, and smart and g-ood-looking- women, was never equaled anywhere. " The story of the flag in Kansas will speak strongly and enthusiastically of the duty you per- formed in the interest of the public and of the history of your state, but the friends who enjoyed your hospitality would be unspeakably indifferent or selfish if they did not by some token show appreciation of the delightful time your heart and hands gave them. "Accordingly, in behalf of the ladies constituting your house party September 24 to 30, 1906, I hand you a golden badge, so designed that it is not only a token of appreciation and love, but a souvenir of historical significance, closely allied with the most precious incident following the transfer of the Louisiana territory by France to the United States." House party at Mrs. George Johnson's, September 29, 1906 : Mrs. Albert H Horton, Mrs. Lee Monroe, Mrs. Eva M. Murphy, Mrs. Anna Dick Rodgers, Mrs. Josephine Martin, Mrs. E. W. Hoch, Mrs. Noble L. Prentis, Mrs. C. B. Brittin, Mrs. Elma B. Dalton, Mrs. A. A. Adams, Mrs. Sarah L. Felt, Mrs. James D. McFarland. Mr. George W. Martin, Mrs. James M. Lewis, jr., Mr. Luther M. Nellis, Capt. Charles E. Adams, Col. P. H. Coney, Gov. E. W. Hoch, Senator Chester I. Long, Capt. Thos. B. Mott (U. S. Artillery ), Ralph H. Faxon, Jesse S. Leach, Miss Zu Adams. , THE WHITE MAN'S FOOT IN KANSAS/ Address written by John B. Dunbar, of Bloomfield, N. J., and read at Pike's Pawnee villaKe September 27. 1900. by Mrs. James M. Lewis, jr.. of Kinsley. ONE HUNDRED years ago to-day there were met in solemn conclave here representatives of the two types of civilization that thus far are rightfully accorded prominent place in the annals of our country. On one side of that assemblage were seen, few in number, the restless, persistent, progressive descendants of the fair-haired, blue-eyed barbarians that one thousand years earlier were, on sea and land, overrunning and possessing western Europe. Wherever they established themselves, barbarians though they were, a new phase of life, of thought, and conduct soon began to ap- pear. Their impress, in due time, was recognized as making, in the main, toward a better order of things. The kindlier phases of life, social and civil, became more manifest and controlling; the thought of home and its value was appreciated and cherished; the cruelties of war were mitigated; forms of civil administration became more benign; education was encouraged — in short, wherever this new race penetrated an influence for manifold good was felt and encouraged. So far this transforming impulse seems to have constituted the noblest heritage, save one, that has fallen to man. All that the much lauded Greek and Roman civilization contributed to the well-being of man in thought and in progress, and the contribution they made is larger than is usually recognized, pales into insignificance in the presence of this later, greater and more pervasive influence. On the other side in that council, in far greater numbers, were to be seen the representatives of one of the longest known, most influential and re- spected tawny-faced tribes of the Missis-^ippi valley. Incharacter and in life they were widely divergent from the small group of pale-faced visitors. Time out of mind they, with the three other bands of the Pani tribe, had been the Note 1. — As to the source whence the material for this paper was derived, appeal has been constantly made to the published account of Pike's tour through central Kansas, as far as the Pawnee village upim the Republican in northern Kansas : thence southwest to the Arkansas, westward to the Rocky Mountains, and finally south into New Mexico, till he was arrested and conveyed to Santa Fe. and soon thercnfier to Chihuahua. The data presented in his published report, after his return to the United States, are ample, varied and always intcrestinK. He was quite as ready and etTective with his pen as with his sword, and whatever he records is well worth readinic. To the material thus at hand certain additions, derived from a brief memoir of the trencral prepared by William Whitinsr. and published as volume V of the second series of American biot?raphies. published und«>r the troneral supervision of Jarcd Sparks. Various arti- cles in certain perindicals published early in the last century have also lieen consulted, as well as sundry documents in the archives of the War Department in VVashinvrton in a recent edition of Pike's journals, by Elliott Coues; copious annotations present freiiuently collateral informa- tion that is both interesting and of essential value. Within the last month word has appeared in certain Eastern periodicals to the effect that the original journals of his e.xpcdition. as kept from day to day. but taken from him soon after his arrest by the Mexican authorities, have at last been found among the archives in the War Office in the City of Mexico. If access may be. had to these documents, the long mooted iiuery as to whether Lieutenant Pike was in any degree tainted by the syren .song of the Burr Con- spiracy may at last be .solved. Coues seems to bi' convinced that Pike did yii'ld to the tempta- tion. If this theory were proved to Ik- correct, he was in all probability induced to the step by the ignoble malapert. General Wilkinson, an active agent with Hurr in planning the establish- ment of an independent dominion in the Southwest. He had be«-n essentially befriended by Wilkinson, in Inking appointed to conduct two important explorations, and may have In'en thus influenced to yield in some measure to the syren song of the wily Wilkin.son. intimating that .should he l)e willing to join in the enterprise, already deeply involved in the scheme, better things would be in store for him. Till this fact is actually proven, however, it bt'comes the part of justice, as well as of charity, to believe that Pike. I'ke a true soldier, lived and died untainteti. without spot or wrinkle or any such grave charge marring his military record. (9) 10 Kansas State Historical Society. recognized suzerains of the fairest hunting-grounds of the plains, extending essentially from the Missouri river to the eastern slope of the Rocky Moun- tains, and from the Niobrara to the Arkansas. In industry, in kindliness, and in prowess, they were the peers of any tribe known to them. On each of the four rivers of their domain, the Missouri, the Platte, the Kansas, and the Arkansas, evidences of their long occupancy and control may yet be traced. The fairest of the hunting-grounds was theirs to traverse at will. But, unhappily, in these very advantages of territory and of easy access to it was found the occasion of their undoing. Two centuries ago, or earlier, the trapper and trader from Canada or from the South, by way of the Mis- sissippi and Missouri, found ready access to them. Though cordially wel- comed, these adventurers too frequently proved to be an insidious source of e*^il to them. In trade they were unscrupulous; in personal relations, too often conscienceless. As the result of such continued conditions the tribe steadily degenerated in character, as well as in the physical traits, activity and endurance. The handful of all the four bands or clans of the tribe sur- viving to-day in the Indian Territory would not equal one twenty-fifth of the tribe as it existed when Lieutenant Pike stood boldly before the hostile council here one hundred years ago. In this connection one other more recent adverse condition deserves brief notice. The opening of the Santa Fe trade early in the last century, and later the overland migration to the Pacific coast by way of the Platte, the Kansas and Arkansas rivers, resulted too frequently in difficulties between these adventurers and the Panis ; and, with reluctance, the statement is ventured that, at least in a fair proportion of the controversies, the emi- grants were not entirely blameless. Instances were not always wanting wherein individual members of emigrant trains, in passing from the usual restraints of frontier life out upon the plains, appeared to feel that the rigid observance of the principle of meum and tuum was no longer strictly in force. A stray Pani pony or other unguarded property was therefore now and then carelessly appropriated. If the owner by and by appeared, and assumed to assert his rights, there were times when rough means were taken to be rid of him. In such cases the Pani, by patient watching, ere long at times found opportunity to liquidate his losses quietly and safely, and per- haps need not always be thought blameworthy. Let it not be forgotten, furthermore, that this tribe, within the recollection of many now present, has repeatedly rendered heroic and valuable service to the government in protecting property and life on the prairies against other hostile tribes.- Having thus briefly sketched the two parties with whom we are especially concerned to-day, with the antecedents and traits of each, as now met in grave copsultation for the first time, we are perhaps prepared to consider the circumstances that brought them. Lieutenant Pike and the Pani, to- gether here. In the year 1802, four years previous to this council, Mr. Robert R. Livingston, our minister in France, ascertaining that Louisiana Territory and the two Floridas had been ceded by Spain to France, in order to secure free navigation of the Mississippi river to the states west of the Allegha- nies began negotiations with Napoleon for the transfer of East Louisiana and the two Floridas to the United States. The sum of $2,000,000 was sug- gested as a suitable compensation. For nearly a year no appreciable pro- NoTE 2.— Occupying, as they did two or more centuries since, the choicest hunting-grounds •east of the mountains, the Pawnees early incurred the hatred and jealousy of the Comanches, Tlic ]\'hitc Miui'fi Foot in Ktoisas. 11 gress was made. To expedite the matter meantime, President Jefferson appointed Mr. Monroe to act with Mr. Livingston. To the great surprise of the latter, however, in a conversation, Talleyrand, acting for Napoleon, April 11, 1803, suggested the purchase of the entire Louisiana Territory, comprising the present states of Louisiana, Arkansas, Indian Territory, Oklahoma, Missouri, Kansas, Colorado. Nebraska, Iowa, Minnesota, South Dakota, North Dakota, Montana, and Wyoming, together with East and West Florida, and inquired what compensation would perhaps be offered. In reply, Mr. Livingston ventured to suggest as probable $4,000,000. Mean- time, Mr. Monroe, dispatched by the president as special envoy to cooperate with Mr. Livingston in hastening the transaction, arrived. Soon thereafter the sum of $20,000,000 was named by the French representative. Later this offer was reduced to $16,000,000. At the final conclusion of the whole business the title to all of Louisiana Territory, with West Florida, as being a part of the state proper, i. e., of Louisiana, passed to the United States. East Florida remained with Spain, since at the time of the treaty it had not been transferred to France. The entire cost of the domain as finally ac- quired was $15,000,000; $11,250,000 for the purchase proper, and $3,750,000 to be expended by the United States in liquidating the so-called French spoliation claims ; in other words, in paying claims presented by American citizens for losses suffered from armed vessels on the high seas. ' Very singularly, at the date of the completed treaty so important to both parties (April 30, 1803). neither knew the exact boundaries of the domain transferred. Other than between Texas and Louisiana proper, no limits had in any way been definitely agreed upon. The French seem to have consistently asserted that, north of the Red river, their possessions by settlement or exploration extended from the Mississippi to the Rocky Moun- tains, and northward to the British possessions. The Mexican government, on the other hand, laid claim upon all lands north of the Red river eastward to the Mississippi, westward to the mountains, and northward to the North Platie. To be sure, since the day of Coronado's vagarious exploitation, in Kiowas. Arapahoes, Utea. and Apaches, as also that of the Kansas.' Osa^es and Missouris upon the east. As a result frequent raids and counter raids, incurrinj? more or less loss upon either .side, was the order of the day. Later the Dakotas and Cheyennes from the north joined in the frny. Placed thus as it were between the upper and nether millstone, the tribe put forth ever the most heroic efforts to maintain their territory undiminished. For nearly a century in a largre decree they succeeded : but the inevitable at last came. By constant war and the visitations of contag-ious disea.ses their numbers besan early to decline, till as early as Pike's visit there sur- vivetl probably not half the original number. Yet their pristine heroism survived till recent days, tinder the command of the late Maj. Frank North, of Columbus, Neb., for several years, in cench cruisers were authorized to capture and confiscate all .'American mer- chantmen engaged in trade with England. These depredations continued from 1793 to ISOO. the French claiming that they wore thereby offsetting lo.sses entaikni upon their citizens by the fail- ure of our government to fulfil pletiges assumed by the American negotiators of the treaty of alliance between the two powers in 177S. Later, in IHori, France relea.m certain treaty engagements, and in requital w.is relieved fmm paying any claims presented by our citizens for losses inflicted by P'rench vessels, the Uniti>d Slates thereby securing peace by entailing serious loss upon many citizens. The losers, or their heirs. repeatiKily brought the matter before Congress, but no progress was made till livS,'). That year the consideration of th.> entire quest i(m by an act of Congress was referred to the court of claims in Washington, with the result that claims to the amount of S.'>.7n.H.r2,'>.17 have been approvwi and paid. S^.W.SIS.U are awaiting payment, while about one-thini of the claims are still before the court. 12 Kansas State Historical Society. 1541, toward an east and northeast still unknown, by a path almost as un- traceable now as the bird's through the air, toward achievements that man's eye has yet to behold, occasional commands or special envoys from New Mexico had traversed this region more or less extensively in various direc- tions, conducting negotiations with different tribes, frequently in hostile conflict with them, t*hereby at least presenting the appearance of exercising rightful authority over the domain; while at the ?ame time French explorers, traders or commissioned envoys were busily passing to and fro, and by their complaisant manners and exuberant temperament winning and retaining the good will and confidence of the tribes. Where such relations existed there could be no doubt as to where the controlling power rested. Of course, the knowledge that France was even entertaining the thought of conveying this extensive and valuable territory to the United States could not long be kept entirely secret. Spain early had knowledge of what was doing, and evidently dispatched at once intelligence of the matter to the offi- cials in Mexico, with the natural suggestion that it might be to their advan- tage to at least make a demonstration of their interest, activity, and, so far as possible, their actual authority among the several tribes east of the moun- tains. Like intelligence was also probably forwarded to Mexico from East Florida, from Louisiana, and from St. Louis. President Jefferson, mean- time, was quite as eager and active, no doubt, in this matter of exploration. His purchase had nearly doubled the area of the country. Not a few of his fellow citizens, especially in the older states, through ignorance of the char- acter and value of the new acquisition, were for a season much inclined to cavil. The time-honored maxim, omne ignotum pro magnifico, which Mr. Jefferson, at least for a time, seemed inclined to regard as not entirely in- applicable prospectively in this instance, was no longer a seductive plea with the plodding hard-working farmers, as most of the population then were. To them, seeing was believing; and as all could not at once go forth to see and possess the new country, he very sensibly set about sending forth chosen men to spy out the several parts of the land and bring back to the people a report thereof. In this direction he was quite as promptly and effectively ■in evidence as his slower-footed rivals, the officials in Mexico. Three expe- ditions were soon organized and started. The first, and as he thought most important, was placed under the com- mand of Capt. Meriwether Lewis, at the time acting as his private secre- tary. Capt. William Clark was soon after detailed as associate commander. Under their joint authority were placed fourteen soldiers selected from the regular army, nine chosen riflemen long familiar with Indian warfare, and two French voyageurs to serve as hunters and interpreters. An additional body of six soldiers and nine boatmen were to attend them as far as the Mandan village on the Upper Missouri. In the instructions given by the President the officers were directed to observe carefully the topography of the country traversed, the soil, the flora and fauna, the minerals, the oppor- tunities for commerce, the fur trade, etc. ; the Indian tribes, so far as possi- ble, were to be approached, their manner of life and character studied, their, good will conciliated, etc. Occasionally a sentence is met in these instruc- tions that, after the lapse of a hundred years, reads strangely; e. g., when Captains Lewis and Clark are gravely directed to ascertain what tributary of the Upper Missouri will afford the most direct and practicable communica- tion with the Pacific by the way of the Oregon. Columbia, or Colorado! After The White Man's Foot i)i Kansas. 13 some delay at St. Louis, in procuring suitable boats, providing neeiful equipments, provisions, etc., May 4, 1804, the command turned their faces toward the distant, unknown destination. The ensuing winter was passed at the villages already mentioned. Resuming the voyage April 7, 1805. the Pacific was at last sighted at the mouth of the Columbia the 16th of No- vember. The winter ensuing was occupied, so far as, possible, in making researches in the region roundabout. March 23, 1806, their faces were turned homeward; and August 22, the long unheard of e.xplorers quietly landed at St. Louis. The results of this distant tour, occupying more than two and a half years, passed the most sanguine expectations. The information secured as to the extent, features and value of the domain traversed, as well as to the life and character of the numerous tribes of Indian occupants, when pub- li>hed six years later, was discredited almost as too highly colored. Imagi- nation failed to appreciate the wonderful disclosures spread before it Like the story of Magelhin's circumnavigation, the published account was received for a time as a tale that is told. The other exploring expeditions of like date planned by the President merit brief mention. One of them, led by Capt. Richard Sparks and Mr. Thomas Freeman, was designed to ascend the Red river, trace its sources, and examine the region drained by them. Scarcely was the company well started, however, from the Louisiana frontier, ere they were met and turned ba« k by an armed force under Capt. Francisco Viana, in accordance with orders from Col. Antonio Cordero, governor of Texas. Originally the third exploration contemplated seems to have been intended to include the di.^trict drained by the waters of the Arkansas. Upon learning of the failure of the previous undertaking, the President modified the plan, to include now the country adjacent to the Black river and Washita north of the Red river as far as the well-known Hot Springs, in Arkansas. Mr. Thomas Hunter, and Mr. William Dunbar, a gentleman of recognized scientific accomplishments, were assigned to this task, and within four months had satisfactorily com- pleted the enterprise.^ While these three undertakings were in contemplation or in progress of fulfilment, the disturbed officials in Me.xico were not indifferent. Three en- terprises, to be executed in concert, seem to have been matured. One of them we have already seen actively present in the neighborhood of the Red river. ^ Another, so far as actual record of it has been met, was intended apparently to move northward along the eastern slope of the Rocky Moun- tains as far as the North Platte. There is thus far no discovered evidence, however, that the movement was ever actually on foot. Of the third, hap- pily, data sufficient to permit us to follow with tolerable accuracy its general Note J. — This gentleman, son of Sir Archibald Dunliar. in Scotland, came to this country soon after completinR hi.s «iucation: settled in 1771 at Natchez. Miss , and sor papers to tho American Philosophical Society, at Philadelphia, amonjr them the first attempt ever made to enlist interest and attention in the study of the siRn lantruaife of the Indians, the most remarkable pnnhict of Indian thought, and quite equal to the t)est of similar efforts put forth by our hiirher civilization. The journal of the tour kept by Mr Dunbar as chief of the e.\p. — This Red river, it will be understoixl. was the upper portion of the Canadian, not the Ked river of Louisiana. 14 Kansas State Historical Society. development are at hand. The officer in charge of this detachment was Don- Facundo Malgares, a Spaniard by birth, of eminent and wealthy family. In character he was brave and chivalrous. At this time he was serving as lieutenant in the Mexican army, and had already highly distinguished himself in several campaigns against the Apaches— not an insignificant distinction in days more recent. The natural inference would be that, in recognition of such achievements, he had been advanced to the command of the most im- portant, extended and difficult of these enterprises. His instructions directed that he should move down the Red river 233 leagues, holding on the way a conference with the Comanche tribe ; then swerve to the northeast, and to continue until the Pani village upon this spot was reached. But on the way difficulties early began to develop. By law, at that date, in Mexico all soldiers served without pay, and also fur- nished their own arms, horses, clothing and rations. The government sup- plied the ammunition only. As they were moving down the Red river provisions began to fail them. Thereupon inquiry was made of the commander as to whither he was going, and as to what was the purpose of the expe- dition. The curt reply was received, "Wherever my horse leads me." A few days later a petition bearing 200 signatures was presented to him, re- questing that the militia might be permitted to return to New Mexico. Malgares at once ordered a halt, commanded the dragoons to erect a gal- lows, and the assembly was sounded. The petitioners were placed apart; the man who handed in the petition was singled out, tied, and given fifty lashes. The threat was then given out that any man that dared thereafter to grumble would be hanged Pike remarks that this was the first instance of corporal punishment in the province of New Mexico. Naturally, we may infer that during the remainder of the march relations between commander and men were not entirely cordial. When at length the Arkansas was reached, a detail of 240 men was left there to watch over and endeavor to recruit a large number of exhausted or injured horses. When we recall that the march was begun with an outfit of more than 2000 horses and mules, one for the use of each man and the- rest to carry the various supplies, the inference seems not unwarranted that the advance had, for some reason, partaken of the nature of a forced march. Again, the prolonged stay of so large a body of meagerly provisioned troopers, 350 or more, at the village here, was a heavy burden upon their involuntary hosts. Possibly the stay here was intentionally extended, and instead of Malgares continuing on to the Pani villages on the Platte, as his instructions required, the head chief of the Grand or Chaui band there wa& persuaded to visit Malgares here, and an amicable compact of some sort seems to have been arranged between them. In the face of plausible ob- jections of established usage, for the Indian is a chronic stickler in matters of precedent, there was in this instance one obvious advantage. It would have been exceedingly embarrassing had Malgares visited them, to be con- fronted perhaps daily by the sight of Pani braves innocently riding about the village on horses easily recognizable as stolen, as chance would have it, from his own command, while upon the Red river a few weeks previous. Other ominous omissions there were in the Spanish commander's program : he had been directed to negotiate treaties with the Omaha and Kansas tribes, and probably also with the Osages. No attempt was made to meet any one of these tribes. More than that, so complete was the knowledge The Wltitv Man's Foot in K(n(s(ts. 15 had in Mexico, before Malgares started, of the exploratory work then doing on our part that he had been especially charged to intercept and turn back Pike in his progress over the plains toward the frontier of New Mexico. This most important duty was entirely neglected. Curiously he did remem- ber, however, to arrest such unfortunate traders and trappers as crossed his path on his return march to Santa Fe and to deliver them into the hands of the authorities there. Nearly a year later Pike found several of these hapless sufferers living in abject poverty in Natchitoches, La. Having now discussed briefly the achievements of this commando from New Mexico, we are at last prepared to recognize and welcome another manner of man, the man of the occasion, unbeknown, it would seem, so far, even to himself, divinely commissioned to inaugurate quietly but effectively the most creditable work of setting back into its due limits for all time the most ruthless and bloody political system that ever marred this continent— Zebulon Montgomery Pike." At this point, as an effective but not uncommon illustration of a familiar maxim, we have occasion to meet again the names of Lieutenant Pike and Gen. James Wilkinson, two remarkable men, apparently then in intimate relations as honorably ambitious members of the same profession. While President Jefferson was maturing plans for expediting his explorations, it seems that the restlessly active general, then in command of the western frontier, with headquarters at St. Louis, had also received permission to make a reconnaissance of the Upper Mississippi river and the adjacent re- gion. To discharge this service he designated Lieutenant Pike July 30, 1804. So expeditious were the preparations for the enterprise that August 9, in a keel-boat seventy feet in length, propelled by the twenty soldiers that ac- companied him, and carrying provisions for six months, the party was on the way northward. The instructions given to the commander required that, while ascending the river, he should carefully study the lands on either side to its sources; indicate sites suitable for military posts; negotiate treaties with the several tribes met; establish friendly relations between the Dakotas and the Chippeways; inquire into the dealings of the Northwest Company (Canadian), at the time controlling an extensive fur trade within our terri- tory, and to correct certain alleged oppressive abuses in their commerce with the natives, if found actually existing; and finally to trace and map the head waters of the Mississippi, with a view to ascertaining its true source. To fulfil these charges the northern portion of the present state of Minne- sota was traversed in various directions, by himself and his men, during the bitter cold of a winter in that latitude. April 30, 1806, with its manifold duties satisfactorily discharged, the expedition reported at St. Louis. Scarcely two and a half months elapsed ere another more extended and varied trust, apparently an indorsement of the work just completed, was assigned. In this new assignment Pike is ordered to ascend the Missouri Note ti. — While Pike was sojoumiriK. after his arrest, in Chihuahua, by the courtesy of Lieu- tenant MalKares. he was introduced to many of the prominent families of thet-ity. Spain at that date was under the control of the French. Beintf thus, as it were, at sea as to their probable destiny, for political discusaion was rife in many parts of Mexico, and at no quarter more fre- rht .seriously atTect his personal safety. Though Pike was thus silenced, the discussion started. 18 Kansas State Historical Society. ordinary relations, contains provisions that are eminently commendable and salutary. But when we contemplate the Indian as a statesman ; as being able to work out a coherent system of political, patriotic conduct, whereby there may be secured, when necessary, the abeyance of personal preference or ambition in behalf of the general welfare, the Indian taken in masses has always failed. King Philip in New England, Pontiac and Tecumseh in the cen- tral West, and Chief Joseph in the remoter Northwest, each of them endowed with no ordinary gifts, sought to establish a system of extended civic> com- bination, in order to enforce thereby the recognition of the common rights and well-being of the Indian. Each failed completely, primarily because the ordinary Indian was not equal to the conditions required. In a much smaller way a combination of the so-called Republican Panis here, was, one hundred years ago to-day, attempted, after they were apprised of Pike's approach. Sarecherish, or Angry Chief (Pike's form of the name, Char- acterish, is manifestly incorrect), had evidently persuaded the warriors to adopt for the impending and momentous exigency a special policy of his own devising. Had the braves only been able to persist in carrying out the scheme, had they only held together. Pike and his chosen men wopld have ended their explorations here ; and the large space so fitly occupied since in our annals by the narrative of his heroic services cheerfully rendered to our country in the hour of need— and in so doing he gave all that he had— would never have existed. But fortunately he well knew the constitutional defect of the Indian, his inability to maintain steadfastly and carry to a complete issue a complex scheme of concerted action ; and so the too well devised plan of massacre crumbled, as he no doubt had foreseen that it would. The Indian who lowered and surrendered the offensive colors, Kiwiktaka, White Bull, had years before been a chief of note and influence, and naturally his unexpected action completely broke the spell. It was indeed bad medicine administered by one Indian to his fellow tribesmen. In the little band of soldiers, on the other hand, we see the exact counter- part. Pike was a man of unusual discernment. He was also, under an equable, usually quiet exterior, a man of noticeable ability and force. He had himself selected the men who accompanied him. For nearly two months and a half he had been daily associating with them, training them, and work- ing with them. He felt, no doubt, that they were in entire sympathy with him, and so he implicitly trusted them. When the emergency came, there- fore, they did not fail him. The lesson that the red man failed signally and repeatedly to appreciate, they, under a most competent leader, had thoroughly mastered. United tve stand; divided we fall. It was this innate defect of the Indian, repeatedly manifested, that gave this continent finally to the white man. October 2 information was brought by friendly Indians (Kansas) that the Pani chief had declared that his braves were resolved to prevent Pike from proceeding further on his explorations. Such a promise they had made, it would seem, to the Spanish commander before his departure. When this word came to the ears of his men. Pike seemed to note with evident pride and pleasure the comments made by them in anticipation of such a crisis. As more horses were needed for conveying all the baggage safely, an attempt was made to purchase some in the village, with only meager success. Four days later, October 7, camp was struck for the departure. As the Indians, in case an attack was to be made upon him while moving through the village The While Maii'fi Foot in Kansat^. 19 when he began his departure, could use the lodges as places of refuge, he formed his men in a compact body, the pack-train accompanying, and passed round the village to the top of a hill to the south from it. From there it became at once evident that the thought of attacking was actual. Many braves were to be seen moving nervously about with arms in readiness. But the unanimity and entire coolness of the little band had evidently overawed them. Pike had beforehand instructed them that by acting in perfect con- cert, if attacked outside the village, with musket and bayonet they could kill a hundred Indians ere they were all killed— 20 resolute men facing 500. After a brief pause, Pike, with one soldier and his interpreter, galloped back into the village directly to the lodge of the chief, and was soon satis- fied that no serious trouble need be apprehended. « Returning, therefore, to his men, he resumed his march, conforming his course somewhat to the trail of Malgares's retiring command, and proceeded south by west till the Arkan- sas was reached, October 18, at or near Great Bend. It is interesting to note Pike's equable poise during this advance; from the number of fires made by Spaniards at their different camps, he estimated with accuracy the number of men in the column; from the demeanor of the Panis who accom- panied him, in apparent friendliness, for a few days, from the village, on their usual buffalo hunt, he inferred that their hostile attitude during his stay there might have been in some measure a matter of temporary policy. Their expert and effective use of the bow and arrow in the pursuit of larger game evidently elicited his admiration. His observation of scenes traversed and his alert judgment of conditions presented were remarkably correct. His long-continued study of military science in the text-books then most es- teemed, as well as his daily experience as a subaltern, had influenced his entire conduct; and yet the simplicity and genuineness of his character as a man was in no wise appreciably affected. In both these phases — as a sold er and as a man— he impressed others. Even the erstwhile hostile Pani chief, at their final parting, October 10, seemed to evince a genuine respect if not profound admiration of him. Some days after reaching the Arkansas, October 27, Lieutenant Wilkin- son, with five of the command, was detailed to convey to General Wilkinson, at St. Louis, a report of the results of the expedition thus far. Pike, with the sixteen men remaining, continued westward along the river, and No- vember 23 entered the present state of Colorado, where four days later he saw for the first time the distant peaks of the Rocky Mountains, one of which was ere long most appropriately to become a permanent and most impressive memorial to himself. His last day in Kansas was rendered noteworthy by an unexpected encounter with a band of sixty Chaui Panis, well armed with bows and arrows, lances and guns, returning from an un- successful foray upon the Comanches. Naturally, they were in an ugly mood, and proceeded at once to take sundry liberties with the sixteen way- worn soldiers. For a time it seemed probable that their scalps might soon be borne in triumph to the Platte river, in lieu of anticipated trophies from their southern foemen. The sturdy attitude of the commander, however, seconded by his handful of men, soon freed them from further annoyance. Small as his number was. he seems to express himself as almost regretful Note S. — The meaniriK of this maneuver was a peraonal challonRe to the chief to meet Pike at once, a« friend or foe : a bold act. prompted by his knowledtre of Indian methods. In this in- stance he cowed the chief for the time. Such challcnKers. however, did not always escape so for- tunately. 20 Kansas State HistoHcal Society. that he did not at the outset meet the Pani insolence with instant resistance —the only case in which he was ever so treated by Indians." After the mountains were reached, for two months, till January 25, 1807, he and his party were almost continuously engaged in an endeavor to trace out the various sources of the Arkansas among the mountains. As their horses were all worn out or had perished, the work was prose- cuted almost entirely on foot, through deep snow, amid bitter cold, with only light summer clothing for protection. At times game, their only resource for food, became so scarce that the most persistent efforts en- abled them to accomplish very little. Their only protection at night much of the time was pine boughs spread upon the snow, and no cover to shelter them. January 18, the rest of the men being completely broken down by reason of frozen feet and lack of food, Lieutenant Pike and one other, as being in the best condition, went hunting, in hope of thereby se- curing some relief from their dire distress. After tramping in vain all day, rather than return to camp empty-handed and thereby aggravate the pa- tient, hopeless suffering of their starving comrades, they preferred to pass the night unsheltered amid naked rocks upon the mountain side, almost wishing that they might not themselves survive to see the cheerless morrow. Providentially, the next day, after crawling a mile through the deep snow, they killed a buffalo, and were able to reach camp at dusk with a welcome supply for their suffering friends, the first food had for four days. Such was one of their bitter experiences. Pike records with evident pride that but once, amid all these extreme hardships, did he hear any murmuring or fretful complaint, and then from only one man. On the contrary, there was throughout a mutual appreciation and esteem existing between commander and men. January 28 it was resolved to cross the Sangre de Cristo moun- tains, an ill-starred movement, for in so doing the party passed unwittingly, so Pike represents, into the domain of New Mexico, and began to descend the Del Norte, supposing it to be the Red river. Upon a western affluent of this stream a stockade was finally erected, to serve as a protection for the remainder of the winter. After a fortnight's sojourn there the entire party was arrested by Mexican troops from Santa Fe. On February 27 one of the two officers in command of the Mexican force, Lieut. Don Bartolomeo Fernandez, charged with numerous letters and dis- patches from his associate. Lieutenant Saltelo, with a command of fifty men, started to escort Lieutenant Pike to Santa Fe. In answer to an inquiry from Pike, with some hesitation, Saltelo explained that his instructions were that he should remain to collect all of the men who, because of injuries or exhaustion, had not yet been able to reach the stockade, and then conduct the entire party to Santa Fe, an explanation that for the time failed to afford the inquirer entire satisfaction. On the way, at the village of San Juan, Pike was accosted by a man,"* claiming to be from the United States, Note 9.— The mention of this rencounter indicates what bold marauders the Pawnees were at that date. Incursions far to the southwest aRainst the Comanches in New Mexico, and even into Mexico,' were not uncommon. The chief object was, of course, to secure horses or captives, preferably boys and girls, for trade with the tribes toward the east and north. As indicated in this instance, they were not always successful in their forays. Though traveling on horseback, in case it became necessary to fight, offensively or defensively, they always preferred to meet their enemies on foot^ a lesson that Xenophon taught his Greeks more than 2000 years since. Note 10. — This fellow, Baptiste La Lande, was a renegade from Illinois or St. Louis. Some years earlier he had been engaged by Mr. William Morrison, a merchant in Cahokia, 111., to con- vey a consignment of goods to the Pawnee country, and after opening a trade there, to pass rap- idly to New Mexico with the greater part of the goods and dispose of them there at larger prices. The White Man's Foot in Kansas. 21 whose conduct soon indicated that he was an emissary of the local authori- ties, to ascertain the purpose of his presence in that region, a surmise very soon verified. The fellow, as developed later, reported that the lieutenant was formerly governor of Illinois, a sufficient warning as to what yet might be in store. The following evening, March 3, Santa Fe, at that day a city of vivid contrasts, was reached. After dismounting, he was conducted at once through various rooms, carpeted with skins of buffaloes, bears and other large animals, into the audience room, there to await the convenience of the governor, Don Joaquin del Real Allencaster. Upon his appearance a series of rapid interrogations and quick replies ensued, as follows (in French) : "Governor: Do you speak French? Pike : Yes, sir. Governor : You come to reconnoiter our country, do you? Pike : I marched to reconnoiter our own. Governor: In what character are you? Pike : In my proper character, an officer of the United States army. Governor: And this Robinson — is he attached to your party? Pike: No. Governor: Do you know him? Pike: Yes; he is from St. Louis. Governor : How many men have you ? Pike : Fifteen. Governor: And this Robinson makes sixteen?" Pike : I have already told your excellency that he does not belong to my party, and shall answer no more interrogations on that subject. Governor : When did you leave St. Louis? Pike: July 15. Governor: I think you marched in June. Pike: No, sir!" In this colloquy, not the only one that had place between the two, the conscious dignity of the official and the poise and directness of the plain man are not entirely devoid of interest and suggestiveness. The governor was evidently nettled, though formally courteous, by the bearing of this But after this was done he quietly appropriated the funds received and settled for life in Santa Fe. Hiii call upon Pike was evidently inspired by the Mexican authorities, with a view of a.scer- tainin^ the actual motive of his presence there. In his awkward attempt, he of course failed to elicit the desired information In reporting- to Governor Allencaster he claimed that Pike had formerly been jrovernor of Illinois, ignorantly basing- his report upon the fact that for a time Pike had been in command of the troops then quartered at Kaskaskia, 111. Note 11. — Doctor Robinson was seemingly a free lance in the expedition, allowed place there by General Wilkinson, and for a time acted nominally as physician to the command, while his real charge was more likely to observe the conduct of the expedition, and later, upon nearing the confines of Mexico, to make his way to Santa Fe and there serve as an agent for the doughty general at St. Louis, by informing him as to the actual conditions of the province. Before leav- ing the command in the stockade ujxm the Conejos. Robinson confided to Pike that his motive for visiting New Mexico was of a pecuniary nature, apparently to collect an overdue claim from .'some delinquent debtor there. February ti he set out alone for Santa Fe. and was thereafter occupied with matters other than the health ii( his recent comrades. There is reason, therefore, to infer that he was in some guise acting under special instructions from General Wilkin.son. who was undoubtedly copartner with Burr in the great southwest conspiracy. After Pike reachcil Santa Fe. March 3. in an interview with Governor Allencaster he used language that might imply that he had no personal relations with Robinson, but during the entire progress of the expedition he seems to have been quite familiar with him: and soon after returning to the United States he at- tempted to aid in an endeavor to secure for Robinson a place in our regular army. At this point the query naturally presents itself. Was Pike in any degree aware of Wilkinson's purpose in thus giving Kobin.son a place in the expetiition: and if so, was Pike also in any way personally involved in the ignoble business? That an alert, cautious ollicer like Pike could ho easily luxxlwinked in such a case is, to say the least, surprising The matter most suggestive of his being not alto- gether free from malign taint is that an ollicer of .so high character heretofore and such keen discernment should unwittingly cross the Sangre de Cristo mountains into New Mexico, thereby come upon the Rin Grande, descend it for some distance, and linully construct a |iermnnent camp upon a tributary of that river, all the while supixising that he was upon the Red river (the Cana- dian)— all this is too remote to admit of easy cri-dence. Evidently tlnn- isajly in Ihr ointtiunt here — a thought reluctantly but unavoidably ndmitti-d. But there is a welcome counterpart to 22 Kansas State Historical Society. new type of a man, from whom each reply, Hke the adroit riposte of a trained fencer, came instantly and effectively. On a subsequent interview the sol- dier was the interrogator, while the official, as respondent, was soon reduced to a confession of ignorance. No wonder that his excellency soon became restive in the presence of such a charge; for two days after his arrival, with a Spanish escort, he was on his way to report to the commandant, Gen. Don Nimesio Salcedo, at Chihuahua. To the governor's credit, however, be it said, that in personal intercourse he seems to have been ever courteous and considerate. The morning that his charge took his departure. Governor Al- lencaster presented him with a neck-cloth and shirt, made, as he explained, for himself by a sister in Spain, and never yet worn by any one; and deigned to convey him six miles on the way in his own official coach, parting finally with the kindly charge: "Remember AUencaster, in peace or war," A suggestive incident occurred after the convoy was well started on the way southward: A portion of Pike's men, apparently those who had suf- ficiently recovered from injuries received during the previous winter by rea- son of starvation or exposure to extreme cold, were permitted to carry arms throughout the remainder of the march. The invincible Spaniard, by long experience, had come to entertain a vivid sense of awe, when in the vicinity of the enterprising Apaches and Comanches, who at frequent intervals were wont to recreate themselves and their sure-footed ponies in forays over the region now being traversed. Very naturally, therefore, the thought had occurred to the receptive mind of some one in authority that the presence of a few armed Americans might exert a wholesome, dissuasive influence over the too familiar raider. The device was indeed timely, though not entirely patriotic. After a few days' progress, near the village of San Fernandez, on the Rio Grande, without forewarning. Lieutenant Malgares joined the command. For once the evenly poised Pike quite lost his self-control, ^- and for a time rode apart in an effort to recover himself. Malgares, apparently without a trace of Castilian pride or reserve, courteously endeavored to reassure him. Within two hours. Pike adds, they were entirely at ease. During the re- mainder of their intercourse, Malgares seemed to find special pleasure in obliging or aiding his companion, a conduct that was thoroughly appreciated. Happily, Pike was not the only beneficiary. The narrative records that this Spanish gentleman was habitually kind and helpful to the poor and needy, frequently emptying his pockets in attempts to relieve their suffering. Upon reaching Chihuahua, Malgares, apparently fearful that the results of his campaign might not receive approval, reported his return by letter, not in person, to Commandant General Salcedo. To his great relief, how- ever, in an audience granted by the general the following day, his conduct during the expedition was commended. Upon the entrance of Pike, intro- all this Six years later, now Brigadier-general Pike, commanding for the first time an inde- pendent force upon the field of battle, mortally wounded at the moment of victory, lay dying upon the deck of a warship upon Lake Ontario. Hi.s victory .iust achieved was twofold : a woe- ful series of defeats was at last retrieved by a victory that was final, but at the cost of the young commander's life. He was now no longer the tainted self upon the remote frontier of Mexico. The costly sacrifice just made had rehabilitated him. Let this expiate ! Note 12. -Some of the Pawnees that met Pike upon his visit to the village on the Republican, still surviving in the early '30's, recounted some of their recollections of him to a missionary then residing with the tribe.. Their statements were of a common tone. To them he was a new type of man- as they expressed it. he was a man ky himself. He was quiet, but resolute; he did more than he said; was always the same (never lost his even poise): his face never blanched nor his eye quailed; his eye was never unsteady, nor did his lips ever quiver, meaning that he was with- out fear, and he was always truthful. The White Man's Foot in Kansas. 23 duced by Lieutenant Malj^fares. a brief but very formal conversation was had between the general and Lieutenant Pike. The papers of the latter were carefully examined by the general and a large portion of them never recovered. During his sojourn of nearly a month, through the courtesy of Malgai'es, he was frequently made welcome and entertained by many prom- inent citizens. CORONADO'S MARCH TO QUIVIRA.'^ The familiar sayings that actual life presents more frequent and impres- sive surprises or contrasts than fiction can achieve; that extremes so meet more frequently than the ordinary observer is aware have become truisms long since. Raleigh, the fond favorite of Queen Bess, and later mounting the scaffold at the behest of the sordid, driveling James; Najwleon at Auster- litz, and a few years after a peevish, mental and physical derelict at St. Helena, are instances that may be readily paralleled. Of such experiences, Spain, once the proud mistress of two continents, and later shorn of all do- main save the impoverished soil and unthrifty population of the Iberian peninsula, presents a vivid illustration of the trite truth. One such instance directly concerns us as a fitting foreground in connection with this writing. February 22. 1540, there were assembled at Compostela, in the state of Guadalajara, upon the western coast of Mexico, for formal inspection by the viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza, a military force numbering, according to Mota Padilla, a creditable authority, 260 mounted cavaliers, 70 footmen, and more than 1000 friendly Indian allies. To furnish this command with ample supplies of every kind that might be useful the arsenals in Spain had been impoverished, while Mexico had been ransacked for immense quantities of provisions of every kind, the country had been levied upon for horses for the cavaliers and their attendants, as also for pack animals for the convey- NoTE 13.— In the preparation of this paper the following documents, have been constantly consulted: Relacion do la Jornada de Cibola compuesta por Pedro de Castaneda de Najera Donde se trata de todos aquellos poblados. y ritos y costumbres, lacual fue ano de 1540. Relacion hecha por el capitan Juan Jaramiilo, de la Jornada que habia hecho a la tierra nueva en Nueva Espana y al dcscubrimiento de Cibola, yendo por general Francisco Vazquez Coronado. Of these two narratives, as published in the fourteenth annual report of the Bureau of Ethnology, Washington, D. C, of the seventy-six paKes of the translation of the first text, only four are concerned directly with the actual march toward Quivira, the investigations there made, and the final return thence to New Mexico: while in the brief record kept by Captain Jaramiilo two of the nine papos are devoted exclusively to these matters. The former was manifestly de- ficient as an observer, and to that defect must be added the fact that he did not hold the pen of a ready writer. His topographical statements are not always clear, while his use of the Spanish lanR-uavre, apparently his mother tongue, is at times quite beyond the reach of precise elucida- tion. .Jaramiilo, on the contrary, seems to have been an ollicer whose mental cast bespeaks the pre.sence of a rare precision and easy mastery in the recording of scenes and experiences met by the way. To these two documents should be added two briefer records : Carta de Francisco Vazquez Coronado al Empercador dandole cuenta de la espedicion a la provincia de Quivira. Desta pro- vincia de TiRuex, 20 Octubre. 1.541 : and Relacion del suceso de la Jornada que Francisco Vazquez hizo en el descubrimiento de Cilxila. 15-11, The first, third and fourth of these documents may also be found in volume 9 of a series of twenty volumes relating to early explorations in America, translated and published under the (supposed ) supervision of Henri Ternaux-Compans, Paris, 1837-'41. The Jaramiilo narrative ap- pears in volume 6 of the sjime series. La relacion que flio Alvar Nunez C.ibeca de Vaca de lo ac.tyscido, translated from the Spanish text by Buckinprhani Smith. The title has leKitimate place here as indicalinsr that the course of de Vaca and Coronado actually ti>uchcKli'»i. Volume 10. MaK'azine of American History.^ A brief, but valuable contribution to the much-vexeka in /rt'L'. In the first article the writer presents an insistent plea to the elTect that Con>nado found no (.Juivira till he had penetrated eastern Nebraska. As a lineal Nebraskan it was for some years my fond 24 Kansas State Historical Society. ance of food for man and beast. The cavaliers were furnished with swords, lances, arquebuses, shields, armor and crossbows at will. Mendoza also con- tributed supplies of various kinds so liberally that he almost beggared him- self. A more impressive and picturesque procession has probably not been since beheld in Mexico than was afforded as the column passed, Spaniards and allied Indians, in review before the eyes of the viceroy, now at last ac- tually entering upon a campaign for exploration or conquest, as the case might be, of unknown extent or duration. Naturally the most sanguine ex- pectations were entertained of its entire success. The route taken was to be north so far as the head of the gulf of California, and thence eastward to an undetermined distance. At the head of this proud cortege rode the chieftain whose actions and ex- periences after he passed eastward from New Mexico we are to attempt to trace and elucidate, Francisco Vazquez Coronado, a Spanish gentleman, it is a pleasure to record, thus far of unsullied repute, of ample fortune, and of acknowledged ability. Scarcely had two years passed ere the counterpart of this hopeful pic- ture was presented. The ragged, wayworn survivors of the expedition, returning from their futile quest, scarcely reached the frontiers of Mexico ere they began to leave their ranks and to attempt to make their way un- known, by devious paths, to their homes, if such they had. There was nowhere even the semblance of a welcome awaiting them. The proud heroes of the review at Compostela, exulting in the thought of victories to be won and fabulous wealth to be had for the mere taking, after two years of want and loss were seen returning homeward empty handed, a mortification to their kinsmen and a malign burden to the country. desire that the theory might prove correct. But a repeated personal inspection of central Kan- sas and eastern Nebraska, together with a careful study of the narratives of Coronado's move- ments after crossing the Arkansas, satisfied me that he did not move further north than the Kansas river, vrith his headquarters probably in the vicinity of Junction City. During his brief sojourn he may for a short distance have ascended some of the near-by northern tributaries, as- the Republican and others. Considerations of the topography round about, the frequent strearns, the ever-varying surface features, bedecked by the pleasing variety and vigorous growth of its native products, attracted from the members of Coronado's escort far more frequent notice and mention than its northern sister could offer as an inducement to proceed further toward the north. But beyond this, so far as the tradition of the Pawnees (the original Quivirans) indicated, Nebraska was not finally occupied by them till the early part of the seventeenth century, perhaps during the years 1620-'50. Governor Onate, in his exploring tour of 1598, found the region of the Kansas still occupied by them. The Spanish Conquest of New Mexico, by W. W. H. Davis, Doylestown, Pa.. 1869. This volume is in every respect a creditable production. The author, while busily engaged in multi- farious official duties in New Mexico, soon after the American occupation, early became interested in the history of the territory, and with only feeble assistance succeeded in burrowing from the accumulated Spanish archives in Santa Fe materials sufficient to shed a flood of welcome light upon the earlier conditions during the long period of the Spanish occupation. His account of Coronado's tour is brief, as he was probably not able to consult at the time the original Spanish narratives, and so he was obliged to rely upon an imperfect French translation, already noticed. Historical Sketches of New Mexico, from the Earliest Records to the American Occupation, by L. Bradford Prince, Kansas City, 1883. In chapter 5 of this volume we find a discussion of Coronado's Quivirian march. As there presented by this author, Coronado advanced quite to the Missouri river, at some point between Kansas City and Council Bluffs. Of course the distance from the Canadian river to this vaguely presented point might have been traversed within the forty-eight days allowed; but there is an entire dearth of evidence that such a distance was made. It is simply impossible that the command should have beheld the Missouri, the most im- posing and mighty stream east of the Rocky Mountains, and made no mention of it. And so the vital fact in this chapter, the exact point at which Coronado's movement actually did touch upon the Missouri, is left entirely in the air. History of Arizona and New Mexico, 1530-1888. volume 17 of the works of Hubert Howe Ban- croft. San Francisco. 1889. The view taken by this writer of the much- vexed theme of the exact site of the elusive Quivira. as here presented is partially satisfactory, inclining apparently to the conclusion reached by General Simpson, an excellent authority, to the effect that Quivira oc- cupied a point in eastern Kansas between the Arkansas and Missouri rivers. The only stricture to be offered as to this -decision is to the effect that topographical data, as already stated, as de- veloped in the last days of Coronado's advance, seems to afford us satisfactory evidence that Quivira was in 1.540, and for some time thereafter, upon the Kansas river in central Kansas. Upon that point the statements are distinct and authoritative. The White Man's Foot in Kansas. 25 Returning now to our immediate text, the progress of this historic march east and northeast from New Mexico, so far as now known Coronado was undoubtedly the first white man that ever trod the soil of Kansas. By what route he reached its southern border, however, just how far in each direc- tion he penetrated within its domain, what were his exact expectations and daily experiences while here, no one, at this distance in time, has been able to precisely determine. Oh, that the order of a later day, that every com- mander of an expedition sent out by the authorities of Mexico should keep a daily record of his movements, experiences, and discoveries, had been in force at that day ! A journal of such character from the hand of Coronado would undoubtedly have proven a noteworthy contribution. Many a crooked way would have no doubt been made plain, much to his honor. The relations now accessible, other than the letter of Coronado to the King of Spain, bearing the date of October 20, 1541, as giving a record of his various movements prior to and during the final direct march toward Quivira, afford evidence that they were compiled some time subsequent to the accomplishment of the expedition, apparently without reference to any contemporary notes, and under conditions widely diverse from the scenes and occurrences described. There is no apparent gi-ound to suppose that the writers had any direct knowledge of other narratives than their own. Each of them may therefore be taken as an original and independent docu- ment, each serving in certain details to supplement or reinforce the others. To aid in interpreting them correctly, however, in the elucidation of Coro- nado's movements while endeavoring to reach the domain of Quivira, or the present Kansas, it seems desirable that certain important preliminary considerations be here presented. The careful computation of the distance or progress made each day was most essential. The usual method seems to have been to detail a man or men each day, whose duty it became to carefully pace the day's march. The device was certainly easy and at casual view seemed no doubt fairly re- liable. When, however, the influence of the topographical features encoun- tered during each day's march are considered — the ever-recurring ascents and descents, the detours in avoidance of obstacles, the crossing of streams, the interference from surface growths, the nature of the soil as firm or yielding — all such conditions rendered necessary a careful revision of the distances apparently covered. Yet there is nowhere found evidence of any such correction even being thought of. Add to the foregoing data the steady decrease in the vigor of this human odometer, and the total reduction in the nominal daily estimates seriously prejudices the sum total in the final records. From repeated personal inspection I am satisfied that in some of the marches made by Coronado in Kansas, notably while passing from his first crossing of the Arkansas northeasterly till near the present town of Great Bend and thence toward the Kansas river, the distances given are too large. But this is not all: The matter of direction is quite as important as dis- tance. In certain instances the statement is met in the narratives that the daily course was determined bif the needle, an assurance by no means un- welcome. Evidently the comi)ass was present, but not always in active service. Mention accordingly appears of a bowman, apparently an Indian ( for such usage was familiar to them ) , serving as a substitute. The moment the column was ready to move in the morning, the bowman discharged an 26 Kansas State Historical Society. arrow at an elevation of about thirty degrees in the direction of the proposed advance. Noting the exact point at which the missile struck the ground, the archer advanced about two-thirds of the distance and sent another arrow, as nearly as might be with the same force, in the same direction. As he passed the first arrow, he carefully withdrew it from the ground, and so continued as long as the march lasted. To be sure there is an element of personal pride as well as novelty in this scheme; but as the day passes, it becomes mechanical and therefore wearisome, and at once its value there- after is questionable. A striking illustration of the possible errancy of this, usage is afforded in the return march of Coronado's army from the country of Quivira. Relying upon this method, upon reaching the Cicuye river they found themselves thirty leagues south of the point intended, i. e. , the bridge by which they crossed, when setting out, April 23, 1541. Another of the devices resorted to in this connection also evinced a degree of simplicity not usual in the stately Spaniard. A detail was made whose duty for the time it became to collect stones or buffalo-chips and arrange them in piles at in- tervals along the route, so that, in case of need, they might be enabled thereby to retrace their way in safety. ^^ At this point, preparatory to the final advance towards Quivira, an ex- planation of certain intermediate movements seems befiting. April 23, 1541, in pursuit of the long sought, evasive Quivira, the army leaving Cicuye, eighteen miles southeast of the present Santa Fe, crossed the eastern mountain range, the Tecolote mountains, and debouched upon the plains be- yond. Four days brought them to the Mora, a deep, rapid confluent of the Canadian river. Here four days were occupied in the construction of a bridge. So far the march was in the direction of Quivira ; but in the sub- sequent thirty- seven days' marching an unexpected change took place. In- stead of continuing northeast, the proper direction, a deflection toward the east, and finally almost to the southeast, develops. At intervals on this long advance halts were made. But in no instance is an explanation made for the halts or for the change of course. A plausible solution may, how- ever, be presented. For more than a year the army had been forcing its way north through Mexico and eastward through the present Arizona and New Mexico as far as the Rio Grande. Not infrequently horses and men had suffered from lack of sufficient sustenance. The winter just passed had been unusually severe and proper provisions scanty. It was natural, there- fore, that April 23 the horses would not be found in good condition for a long and trying march. Coronado was a kind, observant man, and was of course entirely conversant with the situation. Instead of discussing the matter generally, he seems to have met the exigency quietly in his own way. When the march was resumed, after the passage of the Mora river was accomplished, it was soon remarked that the course was inclining somewhat toward the east; at successive stages the deflection became more pro- nounced, till finally, as already indicated, it was almost southeast. The ex- planation is easy and natural. For an unknown period there has existed a frequented route or trail along the northern max'gin of the Canadian river Note 14.— The explanation given at this point as to the use made of stones and buffalo-chips is misleading. Downtrodden grass did. if not completely beaten down to the ground, a condi- tion not usual, soon resumes its natural position and apparently obliterate the trail; yet any one, with an eye to see. at half a glance might readily discover, without dismounting, the equally manifest and more permanent trail, the tracks of the horse.s in the only half-hidden soil. The extremely self-conscioua Spaniards were not always renowned as quick or accurate observers. The Wliitc Man's Foot in Kansas. 27 throughout its entire course. As early as the date of the Louisiana pur- chase the Indians claimed that this trail had long been a common thorough- faro for eastern tribes when raiding into New Mexico for horses and other booty. The only probable reason that the pathway should exist there, rather than upon some other stream, must be that it was more expeditious; it presented fewer obstacles interfering with rapid and safe travel. Prior to all this, however, was another: the Indian captive, Turk, who was acting as guide, conceiving the idea of escaping to his own people, had so far be- guiled Coronado as to induce him to move in this direction as the proper course to reach Quivira. Turk was no doubt a native of some tribe near the Mississippi, for his description of the scene quoted from Castafieda, one of the chroniclers of Coronado's march, portrays an ordinary, familiar scene upon the Mississippi river at that time; while the second writer, the Knight of Elvas, a chronicler of Soto's expedition, presents an ornate naval display on the part of the Indians before the Spanish chieftain. Though the condi- tions were so diverse, theunderlined portions indicate essential resemblances. '^ Between the two writers there could have been no collusion. The natural inference is, therefore, that each of the narrators was personally familiar with such scenes, and evidently for once Turk spoke the truth, and was probably, as he claimed, a native of the Mississippi valley. And so in his attempted misleading of Coronado, Turk's motive was obviously twofold — to escape to his own people, and also meantime to involve the Spaniards in some desolate region where, for lack of sustenance, all would perish, as will appear later. As it happened, the route followed seems for the time to have satisfied both the commander and the guide: the former, in that it afforded an easy progress, with at least two notable halts at convenient points to rest and recuperate the horses; and the guide, in that each march served to bring him nearer to his kindred. At each of these two halts the command seems to have been welcomed and loyally entertained by each of the Indian tribes met, then upon their annual summer buffalo hunt, the Querechos, and farther east the Teyas, the two tribes probably representing the Tonkawas and Comanches of later days. The abundant growth of buffal6-grass in the region attracted vast herds of those animals, and naturally at the proper season these Indians congregated thither. The conditions exactly suited Coronado's desires also. He obtained thereby a supply of dried meat, and secured a favorable opportunity to recruit his worn horses, as the grass was quite as grateful to them as to the buffalo, even though it did not supply the place of corn, their proper diet. Each of the Indian tribes, it may be ob- served, had pitched its village in a ravine or barranca, a miniature canon, not uncommon in that locality, worn abruptly into the prairie by heavy rain torrents, as it afforded concealment as well as shelter and quiet. These halts at the same time afforded diversion to the men of the army, many of whom were not in a kindly mood. Accompanying the Indians upon the daily Note 15.— The two pa-ssaR-es are as follows: " He (Turk ) claimed that in his native country, where the land was level, there was a river two leaKue.s in width, in which there were fi.-re as horses, and many canora o/grcat size with more than twinti/oarsmen upon either side. The boat» carried aailiiand tlie chiefs sat at the stern under awninus. while upon the prow was a larite eu)?le of jrold." "The next day the cacichre, wearinir trreat bunches nf white and other plumes of many colors, hav- intr featheriHl shields in their hands, with which Ihvy ahellrred the oarsmen upon cither tide, the warriors standing erect from Ikiw to stern, holilinK Imiws and arrows. The barge in which the cacujue came had an aivningat the poop under lehich he sat." 28 Kansas State Historical Society. chase, themselves mounted, while the Indians were on foot, it is safe to say that in the excitement of the slaughter they did not spare their already worn horses. Thus far a progress of thirty-seven days of actual marching, with intervening halts, had been made, a distance of 250 leagues, if we may accept as correct the daily estimates as registered. The general direction had meanwhile for much of the way obviously inclined toward the southeast. The farthest point thus far attained was, therefore, short of the western border of the present Pottawatomie reservation, upon the Canadian river. At this point a final crisis occurred. Coronado was undoubtedly in some degree already dissatisfied with the conditions developing. His horses were not gaining in strength nor in efficiency; and long and familiar intercourse with the Indians he saw was not advantageous to his men nor to the Teyas. The lawless conduct of the soldiers had proven ofl'ensive to the tribe as well as a source of serious loss to them. The wanton pillaging of a large store of tanned skins by the ruthless, turbulent soldiery, probably the entire sup- ply so far secured in the summer hunt for use as clothing and shelter during the approaching winter, was a fair instance of the attitude of the Spaniards of that day toward the natives.^** The recollection of such imposition did not, however, readily or soon fade from the Indians' memory. Deterred, no doubt, for the time, by the obvious fact that the Spaniard had the advan- tage of horses, mail, and firearms, they prudently refrained from attempt at retaliation; but beyond question the hostilities, maintained for three cen- turies against the Spaniards of Mexico and New Mexico by the Comanches, had their earliest spring in the evil doings just mentioned of Coronado's men. The wrongs then quietly submitted to have since been thus avenged more than an hundredfold. In the presence of such development, it is no cause for wonder that the Teyas guides deserted Coronado ere he was well on his way toward Quivira; or that the guides of the main body of the army, while returning to New Mexico, were found to be thirty leagues astray f romi their goal, Tiguex ! But beyond all these embarrassing circumstances, Coronado was at last convinced that his chief guide, Turk, had all the while been cunningly be- guiling him far from his true aim, the discovery of Quivira Startled by Note 16. — In connection with this incident — the pillaging of the skins— there is an unsolved, perhaps insoluble mystery. At all events it is one of the noteworthy occurrences of this march that could not readily fade from the memory of the Indians. As the advance-guai-d of the army, after parting from the Querechos, neared the camp of the Teyas further east, the Indians gatli- ered into an immense pile all the dressed skins so far taken that season, with eager expectation that some devout Spaniard would pronounce a blessing upon them, little suspecting what was the character of the approaching visitors. Later information derived from an aged, blind Indian served to explain the expectation of the Indians in so doing. It developed that some years pre- vious Cabeca de Vaca and his forlorn comrades, the sole survivors of the Narvaez invasion of Florida, in their wandering through Texas, came upon this tribe, upon the very spot, so Casta- neda affirms, where Coronado found them, while Jaramillo records that it was near there, but in the direction toward New Spain, i. e.. toward Mexico. Castaneda undoubtedly misunderstood the signs used by his informant, for it is not probable that Vaca was ever north of the Red river, while the statement of Jaramillo allows a plausible explanation. It may be, at the date of Vaca's coming, the tribe was for some reason hunting part of the season at some distance toward the southwest. Bandelier places the most northern point of Vaca's wandering at about latitude thirty-one degrees, upon the Colorado river in Texas; but that point could not be described as near. It is not, however, at all improbable that such a meeting did occur at some distance to- ward the southwest in Texas. Vaca. ere he met the tribe, had already, by certain cures that he had wrought upon sick Indians, conciliated the good will of certain tribes to such a degree that he was regarded as a magician, i. e., as a great medicine man. The Teyas had evidently learned the fact. Upon his coming among them, therefore, he had met a cordial welcome. The Indians gathered all their tanned skins into a great pile and requested him to bless them, i. e., to impart a magic charm to them. With this petition he complied. Upon the approach of Coronado's com- mand, supposing them to be of like character with Vaca, the Indians ventured to solicit a like favor, with the result that the conscienceless cavaliers, to the dismay and grief of the confiding Indians, stole the greater part of their har^-won skins. Tlie White Midi's foot i){ Kansas. 29 the awkward dilemma, the waste of precious time, he faced the crisis reso- lutely and elToctivoly. Turk, made to confess at once and fully his knavery, was put into chains; thirty of the most resolute men were selected from the command, and mounted upon the best horses, with six sturdy footmen accompanying. To the appeal of the rest of the command, that they also might join in the exploration, a steadfast refusal was returned by Coronado, and instead orders were at once issued that they should occupy themselves for a few days in securing a supply of dried buffalo meat, and as soon as possible thereafter should set out upon their return to Tiguex. So persist- ent, however, were they in their solicitation that they even sent a delega- tion to overtake their commander when already well on his way, and again urged their request, with the only result that a more peremptory order was returned, that, without further delay, they proceed at once to their destination.'" Upon setting out Coronado seems to have recognized Isopete, a native of Quivira, as his chief guide and interpreter, though certain Teyas Indians were, for a few days, present in like capacity. The hapless Turk was taken along as a malefactor in chains. At this point a perplexing problem presents itself. While the other narratives are silent as to the exact route taken by Coronado, Jaramillo states specifically that the course taken from the Teyas village was due north. That such a course should have been literally fol- lowed seems scarcely possible— at least so doing would have brought the force to the southern boundary of Kansas far towards its eastern border, while the topographical data as to their movements in Kansas, the most dis- tinctly traceable portion of the entire march, require that they should have entered the state far west of any such limitation. It is very possible, how- ever, that it did move directly north from the Teyas village till the Cimarron river was reached, then crossing to its northern bank, which is a compara- tively open terrain, offering few obstructions, he followed its course toward the northwest till near longitude twenty-three degrees; thence two easy marches directly north would bring him to the Arkansas, at a point known in the early 1800's as The Caches, near the mouth of Mulberry creek, a short distance east of the present Fort Dodge, then a much used crossing place. The promptitude and precision evident in this progress so far we may safely attribute to the presence of the Quiviran guide, Isopete, a very dif- ferent character from the tortuous Turk. Such a course, in an entirely simple and natural way, connects directly with the later movements made Note 17. — "About this time [as the main bxxly of the army was preparinR to start for TiR-uex], a tattooed Indian woman escaped from Capt. Juan de Saldibar and lay in hiding amonfr the ra- vines, as she recoprnized the region [ whither they were vroing I as TiRue.x, where she had formerly been a slave. Later [after the army started for Titfuex] in her flight eastward, she fell into the hands of some Spaniards from Florida, who had penetrated thither on an explorintr tour. After returninK to New Spain. I heard from some of these men f Soto's] that the woman told them that for nine days she was (leein>r from just such men as they were, and she even named several of the captains [Coronado's]. From this fact wo were led to believe that we were then not far dis- tant from the region where they [Soto's army ] were then exploring." While Coronado was upon the point of starting for Quivira, Soto was prolwibly approaching western Arkan.sas, late in June or early in July. If the farthest advance of the former was. as before suggested, somewhat west of the present Pottawatomie reservation, it wa.x not impossible for the fugitive woman to traverse the intervening distance within the limit of nine days. The probable proximity of the two forces at this point naturally prompts the query why they did not meet. The pru(). he landed at Quebec. After a .sojourn there he began his labors among the Montag- nais Indians : thence in one season he was in charge of the Ottawa mission, near Sault St, Mary's : and thence to the mission of Lapointe. near Green Bay, Wis.. lt"69. After his returA from the voyage down the Mississippi, for a time he labored with the Kaskaskias and other tribes in Illinois. Here, as a result of h'ls arduous toils and endeavors, feeling that his frail con- stitution was giving way. he attempted to reach the Kaskaskias. Arriving there he attempted to resume missionary labors with them. But rajiidly declining health promptefl him to set out for Mackinaw. While making his way northward along the eastern shureof I>«ke Michigan, with two companions, his strength sank entirely. Saturday. May IS, ItiTI. His frail Ixxly was piously in- terred by his two accompanying friends. In nine brief years, while his hopt>d for life's work was barely yet begun, he cea.sed thus fnim his devout labors — callwl higher. Two years later a party of Indians to whom he had ministered, upon the return from their annual hunt, visited the spot of his interment, upon a slight hill near a strt-am. e.xhuiniKl his remains, and lx>re them in solemn procession to the mission church at Mackinaw. There they were piously interred, with imposing ceremony, in the center of the building. A full account may be found of Marquette's Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi Valley, by Dr. John G. Shea. New York. 18r>2. Beside the life and voyages of Marquette, there are other articles of eminent value by various hands ; but above all there is a full presentation of Marquette's map. 38 Kansas State Historical Society. the tribe seem to have progressed northward so far as the Platte river, though they had not actually taken final possession of any considerable area, as the greater portion of them seem to have fondly lingered in Kansas, ap- parently reluctant to part entirely from the pleasant conditions there once enjoyed. Between the coming of Governor Onate ( 1601 ) and the massacre of Villazar with his command (1720) upon the Platte river, a few miles east of the junction of the north and south forks of that stream, the Pawnees had taken full possession of all the desirable land within the valley of the Platte and its affluents, including therein all the desirable portion of the state, except a small district adjacent to the Missouri, which the small tribes of the Otoes (Otontanta), Omahas (Mahas) and Poncas, who had conceded, or at least unsuccessfully disputed, the suzerainty of the Pawnees over the domain. The point in the distant South whence the Pawnees first began their remote northern migration is indicated by the Paniassa village, near the northern margin of Red river. It will be noticed that the latitudes, as here indicated, are remarkably accurate, though I find no indication that Marquette had any instruments to aid him in the construction of the map. In this interesting and valuable sketch, therefore, meager as it is, we find our earliest definite information as to the relative situation of the four present states, Missouri, Arkansas, Kansas and Nebraska. The knowledge of the results of this tour by the heroic father, as evidenced in his sketch and journal, when once known, soon thereafter enkindled upon the part of early voyageurs and traders, even then busily engaged in exploiting regions toward the remote West by way of the Great Lakes, a generous and patriotic zeal that erstwhile was to secure a vast and most valuable region, the entire expanse of the great prairies north of the Red river as far west as the Rocky Mountains, to the already occupied realm of Canada, whence in due time it was transferred to the control of the United States, the first effective check given to the ruthless aggrandizements of Spain upon this continent. As Marquette was descending the Upper Mississippi, 'from information already derived from the Indians he had been prepared to behold in the Mis- souri a mighty stream; but his first glance satisfied him that the half had not been told. As he viewed the flood, turbid and laden with uprooted trees and other debris torn from its banks far above, sweeping with irresistible momentum into the Mississippi, bearing along amid the manifold evidences of its destructive power his frail bark, his facile imagination was at once en- kindled. As his Indian rowers informed him of the vast prairies that it traversed, after issuing from the lofty, far distant mountains toward the setting sun, the fond hope was at once conceived that by way of this great stream he might safely pass the intervening plains, and from its head wa- ters amid the mountains penetrate unhindered to the sources of the Colorado, and thence descending it reach California— a fond dream, that still remains unrealized. The character (8) appearing in the names PekitanSi, Smissourit, Schage, PeSarea, and others, is to be sounded as oo in too. The advance-guard of the Pawnees had at this date penetrated so far as the Platte, but had scarcely yet contemplated permanent occupancy. The Kansa were slowly approach- ing the Kansas river from the south. The Smissourit (the Missouris) and the Schage (Osages) should have been located upon the southern margin of The White Man's Foot in Kayisas. 39 the Missouri (PekitanSi) at the two points indicated by the names in script. The dotted marks are an attempt to show more exactly the course of the Missouri, the Kansas and the Platte. JUAN DE PADILLA. The Pioneer Mwaionary of Kansas. There is a somber, perhaps not unbefitting, phase associated with Coro- nado's tour to Quivira that should merit independent notice in this connec- tion. When the march thither began an important member of the force, Fray Juan de Padilla, was duly entitled to special mention. He was evi- dently a man of marked character and peculiar power. In early life he had served as a soldier. This manner of life he had forsaken for a more noble service. In the few brief notices that survive of him there is frequent evi- dence that in his final calling there was an initiative promptitude and per- sistency that impressed others. Upon arriving at Quivira he must have early been impressed and attracted by traits in the character and life of the Quivirans (Pawnees) not yet observed in other Indians. During his brief association with them at that time, the many soon enlisted his sympathy by their kindly attentions and services; while the medicine-men seem to have been equally prompt in avowing their disapproval of him and his proffered instructions. Naturally, he seems to have chosen to associate rather with those of the tribe whose lot was most diflScult. Accordingly, during the brief stay with them, he preferred to move about on foot rather than mounted. When Coronado set out from Quivira for Tiguex, Padilla accompanied him; but with the resolve, contrary to the urgent pleas of all others, that the next spring he would again be with the tribe. Evidently during his brief stay they had won his kindly interest. Though he had met other tribes, to this one he willingly yielded the precedence. So soon as the warm season returned, therefore, with his little company, taking as a gift to their distant charge a small flock of sheep, some mules, a horse and minor arti- cles as presents to be distributed among them, he eagerly retraced the weary distance of nearly 700 miles. The devoted leader, a Portuguese assistant, Andres do Campo, two In- dian laymen, Sebastian and Luke, and a negro not named, constituted the working force of the prospective mission. Reaching the villages in 'due season, with his usual energy Padilla at once resumed the suspended work. What was the present attitude of the tribe soon became manifest. So en- couraging was the outlook, soon after the reopening of the missionary efforts among them, that he ventured to devote some attention to other villages. This step, misinterpreted by some of his immediate charge, so one account runs, wrought his undoing. As he was returning from one of these minis- trations elsewhere he found a portion of his own village in hostile array against him. Their determined attitude satisfied him that the end was come. At once he urged Campo to escape instantly upon his horse; the two lay brethren, as they were young and active, he besought to flee on foot. Campo immediately disappeared; the laymen, reaching a hill at some dis- tance, secreted themselves in the grass and awaited the end. The hostile Indians in a body approached the father as he knelt in prayer, and a flight of arrows closed his labors. The two laymen quietly awaited the coming of the night, then returned, dug a grave, piously covered the mangled body, 40 Kansas State Historical Society. and silently withdrew. Of the three, report was had in due time to the effect that after a weary flight of nearly 1000 miles they finally escaped in safety to Panuco, in Mexico. Such is the current narrative of Fray Juan de Padilla's attempted mission- ary work and death among the Pawnees in central Kansas. Fortunately there is extant a brief account of the matter from an independent source. '-'o As already indicated, Padilla was a man of unusual ability, of quick discern- ment, and instant in the presence of exigencies. When withdrawing from Quivira the previous autumn with Coronado, he carefully prepared and erected a cross in one of the villages, explained its significance to the In- dians, and charged them that they must not in any way disturb it; that such an attempt would cost them dear. Though his commander and others in the force urged him to abandon all thought of ever returning, he alone was in- sistent. The ensuing spring he accordingly set out; and to his pleasant surprise found the cross still standing in its proper place and condition. Ac- companying him were Andres do Campo and the others before named. With him were also returning to their native country the Quiviran guides, who, the previous autumn, had conducted Coronado by a direct route to New Mexico. To the great joy of the missionary everything was found in be- coming plight. The reception by the Indians was encouraging; and natur- ally he began to contemplate an enlargement of his field of labor, with a view to reaching more distant villages. Contrary to the wishes of his im- mediate charge, who were evidently becoming attached to him, he set out with his usual escort. At a day's distance a band of hostile Indians met him. Realizing at once their unfriendly purpose, he urged Campo to mount his horse and take to flight, as in so doing he might be able to assist the two laymen and the negro to arrive at a place of safety. Falling then himself upon his knees in a last supplication, he was pierced by a flight of arrows. The sav- ages immediately cast his body, scarcely yet dead, into a pit near by, and buried it beneath a heap of stones. The writer before named makes men- tion of the fact that some time after the death of the martyr the cross raised by him in the Pawnee village was still standing, a mute but eloquent wit- ness of the esteem in which he was held by his adopted people. The foregoing account has been ventured at this point with a view to offering a new interpretation as to the death of Fray Padilla. There is, to any one familiar with the Indian character ere he was debauched by the white man, an obvious inconsistency here. Indians in all essential matters were prone to be consistent. Simplicity in thought and in conduct was the rule. If they approved the original erection of the cross in the village, unless rare provocation intervened, they would hesitate to destroy it. The only explanation of its remaining undisturbed, therefore, is that a favorable impression as to the missionary's labors among them had been wrought in their minds. The character of the man as revealed in his walk and conver- sation impressed them favorably. The cross, ever before them, was an elo- NoTE 20.— Mota Padilla, Historia de la Conquista de la Nneva Galicia. Mexico, 1870. The au- thor of this work is entitled, by the general character of his writings, to special mention. So far as appeal has been made to this volume, in comparison with other authorities upon the same sub- ject, it has proven quite as safe as the best. He was evidently willing ever to make candid ap- peal to existing records, if accessible, ere he put forth his own opinions or conclusions. For this reason especially his account of the experiences of Fray Padilla among the Quivirans has been accorded precedence as most worthy of consideration or credence. Still, at times, he was not above yielding to the prevalent sentiment of the day; hence we find him gravely recording that the death of Padilla was made memorable by remarkable phenomena immediately thereafter — great floods, displays of blazing meteors, and comets that even obscured the sun ! See page 37. grreat liuuus, uiaiJiayc The W'Jiifc Mail's Foot in Kdnsas. 41 quent epitome of all his teaching and therefore an object of reverence — in their language it was good medicine; therefore the cross stood.'-' The other thought is that, in all probability, Padiila was not killed by the Pawnees. Had the hostile band been such the fact would certainly have be- come known. When he set out upon the fatal journey the Indians endeav- ored to divert him from going. They were in all probability aware that he was incurring danger, as the event showed. At the distance of a day's journey a war party met them with hostile demonstrations, evidently be- longing to an unfriendly tribe. Their motive in burying his body, as they did, already lacerated, in a pit under a mass of stones, was a gratuitous in- dignity, that it might be marred and mangled beyond recognition. Every statement in the entire account is consistent with this view. The father had uniformly befriended the Pawnees; in all his intercourse he had evi- dently sought their welfare, and this fact was becoming known to other Indians. The murderers recognized in him a well-wisher to their enemies, the Pawnees, and therefore they sought his life. Though now identified with the Quivirans of old, the Pawnee tribe acquire no honor from the relationship. As known two centuries since they were far in advance of all that has been recorded of the former, save their hospi- tality, by Coronado's scribes, Castaneda and Jan^millo, or even by Coronado himself. Born within their domain, the most frequent and enduring remi- niscences of the past are intimately associated with them. Once my life was saved by a Pawnee, who saw no reason why I should therefore be indebted to him; and 1 still bear the mark of another who meant last things when he gave the blow. The best and the worst in them are both familiar; but if fairly treated, the best abounded the more. As already noted, Juan de Padiila had in earlier days chosen the career of a soldier. How long he continued in this service we have no means of knowing. Evidently the elements of military training and experience had left a deep and vivid impress upon him. Enough is recorded of him in the accounts relating to Coronado's march to indicate that he was early recog- nized as a person of mark in the army. In enterprises that demanded the elements of promptitude and precision and power he seems to have volun- tarily borne his full share. Even after he became an ordained ecclesiastic, in e.xigencies requiring instant decision and prompt action, the soldierly in- stincts of an earlier day, reverting for the moment, seem to have suspended all thought of his higher functions as an ordained priest. Even before the march*from Compostela began he had been designated as chief of the clergy that accompanied the army. His thought seem to have rarely been con- NoTE 21. — Prof. J. V. Brower. of St. Paul. Minn., president of the Quivira Historical Society, erected in Kansas four monuments commemorative of the Coronado expedition. These are : The monument erected at Lojran' Grove near Junction City, on the farm of Robert Doutrlas Henderson, in honor of the Spanish explorer. Coronado. anellation, however, was Pani. Pawnee beinR a variant form of it. The terms Quivirans and Tindanes were probably conferred by other tribes as dorovratory nicknames. For a time, however, ombracinK' the visits of Coronado and Onate. tosrothor with the interveninir period, they seem to have been Ronerally known only aa Quivirans. Such instances wen* not uncommon. 48 Kansas State Historical Society. fire had apparently swept the entire ground. Those that essayed to escape through the flames were mercilessly shot down with arrows. So destructive were the flames that no fragments of clothing or other combustible material were found. On the other hand, fragments of iron, bones and hoofs of horses, bits of top-boots, scattered skeletons of men, and a chance nugget of gold were here and there to be seen, as ghastly mementos of the occur- rence. The little gold that was in evidence was, I suspect, obtained among the Black Hills, but not in abundance. The Pawnees, as late as fifty years since, sometimes exhibited small specimens from that source. Two Indian children, a boy and a girl, the latter somewhat burned while escaping from the camp, were the sole survivors. Some years afterwards there was a rumor that the boy, Alonzo Sanchez, had becom.e a noted chief in his tribe. The report, however, was never verified. Each of them had been purchased from some tribe by a member of the command to serve as slaves. Such was one of the tragedies enacted in prehistoric days of Kansas. The exact locality of the slaughter is, of course, destined to remain unknown. The text, however, indicates that it was some distance south of Quivira, i.e., perhaps midway between the Kansas river and the southern border of the state. Just how long Onate's sojourn in or near Quivira [ Kansas] continued we have no precise means of determining. It may be safe to surmise at least a month, probably somewhat longer, with all the time busily and usefully occupied in various investigations. Such seems to have been his native bent, to hear, to see, to know whatever was valuable to man. His men were therefore eagerly moving in different directions, especially to the north- ward, as rumor had it that gold-mines existed at some point thitherward. But in this search he failed, though the endeavor served happily to inform him fully as to the character of the country. In contrast with the arid regions of New Mexico and northern Mexico, it seemed to him no exaggera- tion to speak of it as a veritable land of promise. The frequent streams, the wide prairies, pleasantly diversified with gently rolling hills and ad- mirably adapted to cultivation, the rich soil, spontaneously afforded a varie- gated growth of grass, flowering plants and native fruits, nuts, Indian potatoes, etc., that added much to the attractiveness of the entire region, so far as he was able to view it. The Indians met impressed him not always pleasantly. Of the three tribes specially mentioned, he seems to have observed little that elicited admiration save in the case of the Quivirans. In the Escansaques and Aijados his soul found no pleasure; and yet he was ever ready to recognize and appreciate generously traits of good in his fellow men, wherever met. We may safely conclude, therefore, that the punishment bestowed upon the two tribes, the Aijados and the Escansaques, was given with hearty good will. The Quivirans, and he had ample opportunity to know them well, im- pressed him very differently. In character they seem to have been affable and kindly, disposed to recognize and deal openly and fairly with their fellow men. Alone of the tribes thus far met upon the plains they cultivated corn, beans and squashes in considerable quantities, the first step toward civiHza- tion. They constructed lodges of two types: the common lodge, consisting of tanned skinscarefully sewed into the required form and stretched upon a conical framework of light poles', for use in warm weather or when travel- ing; and the larger earthen lodge, consisting of stronger poles set in a circle 77/ 1' White Man's Foot in K(uisa>i. 49 about five feet in height. Upon them smaller poles were fastened, and made to slope inward in conical form. Thef.e were then firmly bound together with withes, thatched with grass and overlaid with thin turf. Such lodges varied in size from fifteen to forty feet in diameter, the larger sometimes sheltering three or four families. Ihe Pawnees (the Quivirans of a more recent day) used to assert, somewhat philosophically, that this usage tended to encourage a spirit of mutual helpfulness and complacency. As indicated upon a previous page, in the cases of the retribution admin- istered by Onate to the Escansaques and Aijados, the Quivirans had preferred to vacate their villages and withdraw to a distance, rather than engage in hostilities; an extreme concession to amiability. How long the Quivirans had occupied the region of central Kansas we have no direct means of determining; but it is perhaps not drawing a long bow to suggest that they had already resided there a century, or somewhat less, subsequent to the coming of Coronado, in 1541. The fragmentary sur- viving records indicate also that some portion of them had passed already to the region more nearly adjacent to the present Nebraska; at least, ex- ploring parties sent in that direction reported that so far as their progress extended they found the country already occupied, and wherever met their demeanor was uniformly pacific. An earlier witness. Padre Juan de Padilla, the protomartyr of Kansas, had experience of them as a missionary half a century before, and his testimony was to the same effect. In no instance were they other than kind toward him. A few details in somewhat fragmentary form have been met as to certain of their early usages. Important communications were disseminated by waving garments from the tops of trees or other eminences, an anticipation of a later method of signaling in vogue in military affairs, the earliest idea of which we owe to the Indians, quite probably to the Pawnees themselves, the later representatives of the Quivirans. Cultivating the soil, they wor- shiped the planet Venus, known as Hopirikuts, the Great Star, recognized by them as the patron of agriculture, as did in later days the Pawnees, their descendants. Sometimes, after planting their corn patches, to secure a good crop, they offered a captive girl as a sacrifice to Hopirikuts. Many of the tribe, as time passed, came to look upon this usage with disfavor, and finally, in 1819, by the interference of Pitalesharu, a young brave of well-known character as a man of recognized prowess as a war chief, the usage was finally discontinued. The general inclination of the Pawnees, lineally derived from their an- cestors, was to live void of offen.se toward other tribes. This disposition, when known to other tribes that had been crowded west of the Mississippi before the advancing settlements of the whites, was naturally taken advantage of with a view of gaining possession of the lands long occupied by the Quivirans, or their lineal descendants, the Pawnees. Prominent among their assailants, during the early part of the last century, were the Dakotas, who, removing from Minnesota westward across the Missouri river, sought to force their way through Nebraska toward the south; while at the same time the Cheyennes, Comanches and Kiowas were attempting to wrest from them (the Pawnees) the hunting-grounds toward the south- west; an unequal warfare, that was relentlessly waged from both directions for nearly a century. Against such unewa.s. and some- what by the Pawnees, was situated alH)ul twenty-seven miles above the mouth of the IMntte river, upon the western bank of the Missouri. As early aa 1832 it had, however, fallen into decay, and was 8n after abandoned. — J. B. 1). (55) 56 Kansas State Historical Society. of the Grand Pawnees,-' and Mr. Allis the Pawnee Loups, being separated from each other until the following spring, when the Indians returned to their permanent villages in time to plant their corn. The village of the Grand Pawnees was situated on the south side of the Platte, about 120 miles from its mouth. The Indians treated the missionaries with great kindness through- out the long journey, which terminated in March, 1835. During the summer and winter of 1835 Messrs, Dunbar and Allis again accompanied the Indians, receiving the same kind treatment, and directing their attention principally to the acquisition of the language. In this Mr. Dunbar made such proficiency as to be able to understand nearly all the In- dians said and to express his thoughts with little difficulty on common topics, but could as yet make himself but very imperfectly understood on religious subjects.* Dr. Benedict Satterlee, of Elmira, N. Y., joined the Pawnee mission at the agency at Bellevue,'' about 130 miles from the Pawnee country, May 27, 1836, his wife, Miss Martha A. Mather, of Fairfield, N. Y., having died at Liberty, Mo.,^ while on her way to the new field. Miss Emeline Palmer, of Note 3.— This chief, Sarecherish, Angry Chief, spite of his ominous name, was a very com- panionable and interesting- personage : to his fello-w tribesmen he was ever a kindly adviser and helpful friend. Though a subordinate in rank, a second chief, he was one of the most respected and influential dignitaries of the tribe in time of peace or war. To Mr. Dunbar, his long-time guest and associate, he was to the day of his death a wise counsellor and steadfast, generous friend. His tragic death was characteristic and noteworthy. Ever since the coming of Mr. Dun- bar and Mr. Allis the Dakotas had viewed with hostile intent the efforts making for the estab- lishment of a mission among the Pawnees. Repeated forays were accordingly made nearly every year, during the absence of the tribe upon the annual summer hunt, with a view to cut- ting down the growing corn-fields and burning the permanent lodges in the vacant villages. The.se recurring depredations were so serious that in 1843 it was decided that about sixty braves, together with a considerable number of the aged and feeble, who could ill-endure the fatigue of the hunt, as well as a number of children, should be allowed to continue at the village to be protected by the sixty guards who. under the control of Sarecherish, were to keep a vigilant eye upon any further attempted devastation of the corn-fields. As time passed occasional signs of a few wandering Dakotas were noted in the vicinity, but no overt annoyance or injury was received. Herein his first and only error was made. Sarecherish had allowed himself to im- agine that the few roaming Dakotas seen were a matter of indifi'erence. On the contrary they were cautiously spying out existing conditions. The Dakota scouts had made report to their band, nearly 200 strong, that matters in the village were favorable for an onslaught. That night a force of nearly 200 warriors quietly crossed the Loup Fork, and secreted themselves in the dense bushes and vines that covered the low ground lying between the village and the river for a distance of a quarter of a mile. As usual, at the earliest indication of approaching dawn, June 27, 1843, Sarecherish mounted one of his ponies, and, the rest following, rode down into the bushes and by a narrow pathway directed his course toward the river. A short distance only was made ere an enemy concealed beside the path sprang toward the chief, who was entirely unarmed, and with a heavy knife in- flicted a ghastly wound across his abdomen. The pony at the same instant made a demivolte and galloped toward the village. The dying chief made an eff'ort to retain his protruding bowels in their place, but in vain. They fell to the ground and were trodden on by the terror-stricken pony. Upon reaching the village the chief was able to sound the alarm cry and instantly fell to the ground dead. This statement to an outsider may savor much of an appeal to an amiable credulity ; yet the entire account is the simple truth, unadorned and plain. Meantime nearly 200 Dakotas, fully armed for the fray, were pressing eagerly toward the village. The Pawnees had scarcely time to take refuge in their earthen lodges ere the enemy had mounted the lodges and were discharging their arrows at the inmates through the open smoke holes. The Pawnees within were equally busy in discharging their arrows and firearms through holes made in the lodge walls at their enemies, as opportunity offered. The desultory fighting continued at intervals till midday and after. Finally the enemy gradually began to re- tire, taking with them their wounded and dead. Their actual loss was never ascertained : proba- bly not more than forty braves were killed, and a large number wounded more or less seriously. -J. B. D. Note 4.- Am. Bd. Comm'rs For. Miss. Report, 1836, pp. 97. 98. Note 5 — Bellevue was a trading-post nine miles above the mouth of the Platte, upon the same side of the Missouri. Its name to this day, an unfaded reminiscence, is still fondly cher- ished. One of the large photos of Maximilian Prinz Zu Wied's narrative of his travels in this country, during the years 1832-'33-"34 presents an admirable view of the place at that date. In the trading-house, as there seen, I was born; when the mission with the Pawnees was abandoned, a sojourn of nearly two months was passed in that building. The recollections of those days are vivid still, though not an object about which they cluster so ardently now survives. The mighty river alone remains ever the same.— J. B. D. Note G.— The sudden death of Mrs. Satterlee was regarded by all members of the mission as a grievous loss. For some years she had hopefully anticipated engaging in that work. For a The Uliite Man'i^ Foot in Kansas. 57 e: 58 Kansas State Historical Society. Ithaca, N. Y., had accompanied the Satterlees, and was united in marriage with Mr. AlHs, at Liberty, April 23, 1836. They concluded to remain at Bellevue, where they could continue their work among the Pawnees who visited the agency, and with the nearer tribes of Omahas and Otoes. Doctor Satterlee accompanied Mr. Dunbar on the summer hunt among the Pawnees till their return to the village, early in September. • It was during the year 1835 that Mr, Dunbar was able to give valuable assistance to C. A. Murray, the English traveler, who published an account of his experiences in a volume entitled "Travels in North America, Includ- ing a Summer Residence among the Pawnee Tribe of Indians," London, 1841. 7; In September, 1836, Mr. Dunbar returned to Massachusetts, to confer with the authorities concerning the interests of the Pawnee mission, and there married, January 12, 1837, Miss Esther Smith, born at Hadley, August 17, 1805. During this visit, which detained him until February, 1837, he superintended the printing of a small elementary book of seventy-four pages, ^ which he had prepared in the Pawnee language. The edition numbered 500 copies. They arrived at Bellevue on May 6, 1837, where they began house- keeping in an old trading-house.'' In September, 1839, Messrs. Dunbar and Allis visited the Pawnee villages, and, after a conference with the chiefs, selected a site for the mission and time her decision was delayed because of symptoms of consumption. These indications with due care soon disappeared, and at the solicitation of Doctor Satterlee she decided to join the Pawnee mission. During the journey westward in midwinter she unhappily contracted a severe cold. While delaying- a few days at St. Louis, the indications of the dread disease developed. She was advised, however, by a physician, that the drier air upon the Upper Missouri would be beneficial to her. Upon the way she rapidly became weak, and after landing- from the boat at Liberty. Mo., she rapidly declined till, during the last week in April, 1836, death ended her hopeless suffering. " Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord." — J. B. D. Note 7. — The "valuable assistance" tendered to Mr. Murray is conspicuous by its absence in the published volumes. His opinion of Mr. Dunbar as therein expressed is by no means favor- able, and for reason. His habitual attitude toward the Indians was not complaisant, candid, nor grateful, though with them as their guest. More than once he sought advice from Mr. Dunbar, as to his manner toward the Indians, and uniformly rejected it as soon as uttered. Finally, after two schemes had been mooted by some of the Indians to relieve themselves of his presence, each of which, atlthe solicitation of Mr. Dunbar, was thwarted by Sarecherish, he was told plainly that his only safe course was to withdraw quietly, if possible unbeknown, and endeavor to make his_ way rapidly to Fort Leavenworth, nearly 200 miles distant. For once, the only instance of the kind on record, he accepted the salutary advice.— J. B. D. NOTK 8. — The booklet in the Pawnee tongue, prepared for use by Mr. Dunbar in the contem- plated school for the Indian children, was soon after in actual use. So genei-al was the interest manifested in the school as conducted by Mr. Allis that some of the adults asked to be allowed to learn to read. The call for the books was constant, but of course only children were allowed to use them. When the mission was suspended very few of the booklets remained. I have one, and know of only four or five others.— J. B. D. Note 9.— September, 1836, Mr. Dunbar returned to Massachusetts to confer with the authori- ties concerning the interests of the Pawnee mission. Meantime Doctor Satterlee, in the fall of 1838, accompanied the Grand or Chaui Pawnees upon their winter hunt. The winter proved unusually severe and they therefore extended their hunt further than usual toward the remote Southwest, to a distance of more than 300 miles. Some of their .scouts one day brought in word that they had met a small party of Cheyennes, who intimated that their tribe was desirous of establishing i)eaceable relations with the Pawnees. An interview was accordingly arranged, largely through the efforts of Doctor Satterlee, about the 10th of April, 1837, and a pacific under- standing was reached, subject to the approval of the chiefs of the two tribes in a general council. Nearly a month later word was had from two trappers that while descending the southern branch of the Platte, distant nearly 200 miles, they had met the doctor with two Pawnee guides moving eastward. A few days later word was brought that, during a severe snowstorm of two or three days, the doctor and his guides had disagreed as to the proper course to be followed in order to reach the Pawnee villages. Unable to agree, they were allowed to choose their own route, while the doctor, as soon as his horse was sufficiently recruited, would proceed alone, guided by his pocket compass. May 17 the Pawnees came to Bellevue to receive their annuities. They reported that they had not seen or heard of him since his guides left him. One of the chiefs expressed fear that he might have met with foul treatment by the way. The only hope expressed was that he might have turned westward and reached one of the trappers' forts upon the upper Platte. Mr. Dunbar, returning from the East, anxiously inquired of every trader's boat, as it de- scended the Platte, but day by day no word was received from any source concerning his absent The White Man's Foot in Kcnisas. 59 farms, on Council and Plumb creeks,'" on the north side of the Loup Fork of the Platte, about thirty miles from their junction, and from 100 to 125 miles from Bellevue, and about eight to fifteen miles from the principal vil- lages of the Pawnees. In 1840 the Pawnees had bad luck in the chase, and were inclined to see the advantages of better methods of farming. In May, 1842, a number from each of the four Pawnee bands moved to the vicinity of the farm and mission. Mr. Allis received an appointment as government teacher to the Pawnees in 1841, and Mr. George B. Gaston as farmer. The mission families removed to the new station in May, 1841, and were kindly met by the chiefs with an abundance of buffalo meat and corn. At first Mr. Allis's family was separated some miles from Mr. Dunbar's, but in Jan- uary, 1844, for safety, they were removed to within three miles of Mr Dunbar at the upper station. For some years back the Pawnees had been sadly annoyed by the Sioux, who would come singly or in small parties, driving off horses, or killing such stragglers as they might encounter about the Pawnee villages. In 1843 the force at the new settlement was increased by a teacher, three farmers, two blacksmiths and two helpers; but the settlement of govern- ment employees among the Pawnees seemed to incite more persistent hos- tilities on the part of the Sioux. They seemed to be offended because of the interest shown toward promoting the welfare of the Pawnees, and so redoubled their attacks upon them. On the 27th day of June, 1843, "early in the morning, a strong party of Sioux came upon one of the Pawnee vil- lages by surprise, when a course of fighting and plunder ensued which lasted till midday, and resulted in the killing of G7 Pawnees, wounding 20 others, seizing about 200 horses, and burning 20 out of 41 lodges of which the village was composed. Some children were taken captive. Some of the most important chiefs and braves, and those most favorable to the improve- ment of their people, were killed. The battle was a mile from the mission house and in plain view." The Sioux attack resulted in the destruction of many of the Indian corn-fields. While the Pawnees had been assembling at their new residence, they had required much of Mr. Dunbar's time and at- tention, so that he had not been able to give stated religious instruction, but brother. At last, however, amoriK a number of trappers who were descending the Platte in care of their boats, laden with furs taken durinur the winter and early sprinsr, a younR man was met who had been with Mr. Dunbar and Doctor Satterlee durinR the buffalo hunt of the jirevious summer. He rei)orterun uprigrht with its muzzle fixed in the jrround, shrere»l.— J. B. D. Note 10. — I am much mortified that I may not at this distance jrive any exact topofrraphical information as to Plumb or Council creek, nor as to the exact location of the buildintrs erected by the mission. In 1S77 I made a sketch of the grounds and i>f streams in or near them. The fol- lowint? winter I loaned them to a Nebraska jrentleman. Stmie time after they were lost Or stolen from him. I have had no opportunity since to replace them.— J. B. D. Note 11.— Am. Bd. Comm'rs for For. Mi.ss. Report. Ifvi;!, p. 1(58. See al.so note 3, paire 100. 60 Kansas State Historical Society. during the winter of 1843-'44 he translated portions of the scripture into the Pawnee language. Rev. Timothy E. Ranney and wife joined the mission work in August, 1844. "Never before have the Pawnees manifested so strong a desire to have their children reside with the missionaries and be instructed by them. Enough have been offered to constitute a large boarding school. . . . The missionaries have translated the Gospel of Mark into the Pawnee lan- guage. " ^^ In consequence of another attack upon the villages by the Sioux, in which Mrs. Allis was shot at, the missionaries resolved, after holding a council with the government employees, that it was not safe for them to re- main any longer, as in doing so they imperilled themselves and families. They therefore cached such goods as they were unable to take, and in August, 1846, departed for Bellevue with their families, having spent four years and four months with the tribe. Mr. L. W. Piatt took with him six- teen Indian children for their protection. I quote again from Mr. Allis: "We were in the country eight years, doing what we could to prepare the way, before we could move among them with our families. During that time Brother Dunbar and myself traveled with them some eighteen months for the purpose of acquiring a knowledge of their language, manners, and customs. The remainder of the time we were with our families at Bellevue, living in suspense, hoping that the way might be opened that we could go among them. During that time we had but little access to them, but more with the Otoes and Omahas, who were living most of the time near Bellevue. I could understand considerable of their language, especially that of the Otoes, whose language is pretty and easily acquired." Mr. Dunbar, soon after leaving the Pawnee villages, removed to Holt county, Missouri, and engaged in home missionary work. He purchased a farm near Oregon, the county seat, taught school, preached, and attended to his farm. Preferring to rear his family in a free state, he sold his farm in 1856 and removed to Kansas, and settled upon Wolf river, two miles west of the town of Robinson, in Brown county, where, March 16, 1857, he was appointed treasurer of the county board of commissioners. Mrs. Dunbar died there November 4, 1856, and Mr. Dunbar survived the loss only one year, till November 3, 1857. There were born to Mr. and Mrs. Dunbar seven children : Jacob Smith Dunbar, b. October 27. 1837, at Bellevue, Neb. ; mar. Dec. 15, 1875, at Evans, Colo., to Mattie Hodgen. Pi-esent residence, Evans, Colo. Children, b. Evans, Colo. : Frank B.. Sep. 26, 1876. Nellie J.. Sep. 22. 1877. Benedict Satterlee Dunbar, b. Mar. 6, 1839, at Bellevue, Neb. ; mar. ( first) Oct. 18, 1877, at Wabaunsee, Kan., to Ella A. Dibble, b. Jan. 6, 1849, at Guildford, Conn., d. without issue Nov. 28. 1891, atTopeka, Kan. ; mar. (second) Apr. 20. 1898. at Manhattan. Kan., to Nellie S. Griswold, b. Oct. 7, 1861, at Wabaunsee, Kan. ; no issue. Present residence, Manhattan, Kan. John Brown Dunbar, b. April 3, 1841, at Bellevue, Neb. ; mar. Aug. 22, 1876, atTopeka, Kan., to Alida Stella Cook. Present residence, Bloomfield. N. J. Children: Paul John, b. Oct. 27. 1879, at ; in business at Fort Worth, Tex. Willis Cook, b. Sep. 7, 1881, at ; a chartered accountant at Dallas. Tex. Louis Smith, b. July 3, 1888, at Bloomfield, N. J. ; a student of architecture at University of Pennsylvania. Mary Dunbar, b. Dec. 13. 1842, at Pawnee Mission. Neb. ; mar. June 30. 1880. at Clifton Springs, N. Y., to H. S. Adams. Present residence, Clifton Springs, N. Y. Children : Hawley Foster, who resides in Chitago. Note 12.— Am. Bd. Comm'rs for For. Miss. Report, 1846, p. 197. Tlic White Man's Foot in Kansas. 61 Saram Dunbar, b. Mar. 14. 184'). at Pawneo Mwsion. Nob.: d. Jun. 1. 1906, at De Smct. S. Dak.; mar. Jan. 5. 1870, at Topeka, Kan., to Barnett C. Benedict, b. in state of Connecticut. Pres- ent residence. De S met, S. Dak. Children: Esther Fannie, b. Oct. 8, 1870. at Wabaun.see, Kan.; Mary Charlotte, b. Feb. 28. 1872. at Wabaunsee. Kan.: Blanche, b. May 5, 1874, at Wa- baunsee, Kan.; Clifton, b. July 15, 1877, at Rochester, Minn.: Sarah Jewell, b. Nov. 28, 1381. atDeSmet, S. Dak.: mar. July 21, 19trj. at Do Smet, S. Dak., to Gilbert A. Benson. Their children: Dorothy, b. Jun. 14, 1903; Orrin. b. Nov. 29. 1905. Present residence, De Smet. S. Dak. Charlotte Ranney Dunbar, b. Jan. h, 1848, at OreRon. Holt county. Mo.: mar. Nov. 21. 1877. at Manhattan, Kan., to Geo. W. Hollenback. He wasa memljerof the Kan.sas House of Rep- resentatives, from Comanche county, legislature of 1891. Pre.sent residence, Lenexa, Kan. Children: Martha Zolma, b. Nov. 8, 1878, at Fort Scott, Kan.: Lottie Ruth. b. Jan. 31, 1881, at Fort Scott, Kan.: Benedict Dunbar, b. Jun. 28, 1883, at Coldwater, Kan.; George Massa. b. Sep. 27, 1886, at Coldwater, Kan. Martha Ann Dunbar, b. Feb. 25, 18,50, at Oregon. Holt county. Mo.: mar. (first) Feb. 10, 1882, at Wabaunsee, Kan., to Sherman J. Castle, who d. Nov. 3, 1893, at Jordan Valley, Ore. They had one son, Raymond S. Castle, b. Oct. 3. 1886, at Jordan Valley, Ore. She married (sec- ond), at Jordan Valley, F. C. Barton; no children. Present residence. Vail. Ore. John B. Dunbar received his primary education from his father, was one year at Hopkins Academy, Hadley, Mass., and p^raduated from Amherst College in 1864. He served in the civil war in the capacity of private, sergeant, and lieutenant in an independent light artillery company, one year in Louisiana and nearly two and a half years in Virginia. From 1869 to 1878 Mr. Dunbar held the chair in Latin and Greek in Washburn College, Topeka, Kan, While here he married Miss Alida Stella Cook, whose parents, Mr. and Mrs. Caspar Cook, late of Rochester, N. Y., were for the time con- nected with the College. They have three sons, Paul John, born October 27, 1879, in business in Fort Worth. Tex. ; Willis Cook, born September 7, 1881, a chartered accountant, now at Dallas, Tex. ; Louis Smith, born July 3, 1888, a student of architecture in the University of Pennsylvania. After leaving Topeka, Professor Dunbar became for three years superintendent of the public schools of Deposit, N. Y. Later he filled the same position for sixteen years in Bloomfield, N. J., and in 1897 became connected with the Boy's High School in Brooklyn, N. Y., where he still remains, while re- taining his residence in Bloomfield, N. J. Professor Dunbar is a philologist and deeply interested in the early his- tory and explorations of the Spanish and French in the southwestern United States. His library is especially rich in publications on this region and the languages of the native tribes of Kansas, Nebraska, and Missouri. In 1872-'73 he assisted Father Gailland, of St. Mary's Mission, in the prepara- tion of a Pottawatomie grammar and dictionary, which, however, have not yet been published. He has also compiled, but not published, a brief grammar and partial vocabulary of the Pawnee language. In January, 1885, Professor Dunbar was elected a corresponding member of the Kansas State Historical Society. He has been a valuable member, assisting the Society in the pur- chase of many books, has prepared for it a bibliography of early Spanish and French authorities on the region, has always answered cheerfully queries relating to local names of Indian derivation, and in the accompanying pa- pers is generously sharing his wide knowledge with other students of Kansas history. He copied and presented to the Society, about ten years ago, the French text in manuscript of Bourgmont's journey in 1724, from Fort Or- leans, Mo., to the Paducas in western Kansas. Among other works, Mr. Dunbar has published the following: 62 Kansas State Historical Society. The Decrease of the North American Indians. (In Kansas City Review of Science and Industry, September, 1880.) The Pawnee Indians: Their History and Ethnology (92 pp., ill. 8 vo.). (Reprinted from t\ie Magazine of American History , April, November, 1880; November, 1882.) An article on the Indian craze of a few years ago. The Pawnee Language; an appendix to George B. Grinnell's Pawnee Hero Stories and Folk Tales, as well as frequent material for use in other parts of the volume. The Life of an Indian (Pawnee) Boy. Indian Games. A Study of the Lipan Indians. A Comparison of the Usages of the Greeks of Homer's Day and the Paw- nees of 1850 and After. The Migrations of the Pawnee Clans or Subtribes. Professor Dunbar has aided various persons interested in Indian matters with information for publication by them, as Dr. Daniel G. Brinton, of Phila- delphia; Maj. Frank North, of Columbus, Neb. ; also several writers connected with the Bureau of Ethnology, at Washington. Most of his investigations are, however, still in manuscript. To Doctor Brinton, now deceased. Pro- fessor Dunbar furnished a collection of Indian songs— Pawnee, Arikara, Caddo and Wichita; also a paper on religious beliefs and usages, and a paper on medical practices as observed by the Pawnees. To Dr. John G. Shea, of Elizabeth, N. J., he furnished frequent assistance as to Indian matters, for use by him in his edition of Charlevoix's Travels in the United States, six volumes; in volume 1 of his History of the Catholic Church in the United States, as to various tribes.