LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, %P--'^"Gop5og|tlt>.- '1^ -"■'+' o UNITE© STATES OF AMERICA. THE NEW BEE-KEEPEBS' TEIT BOOK, BY A. J. KING, EDITOR OF "THE BEE-KEEPERS' MAGAZINE." TWENTY - FOURTH EDITION, FIFTY- SECOND THOUSAND. Being a thorough reyision of the Old Text Book . c ? By N. H & H. A. KING. ENLARGED AND ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: flSil d- ORANGE JUDD COMPANY. 245 BROADWAY. 1879. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by A. J. KING & CO. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. TO BEE-KEEPERS EVERYWHERE ■\l'HOSE CHOSEN PURSUIT HE WOULD GLADLY RENDER STILL MORE ATTRACTIVE, PLEASANT, AND PROFITABLE, THIS WORK IS PRESENTED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE, The successful cultivation of the honey bee, depends upon a correct knowledge of the laws by which the economy of the hive is regulated ; comply with these laws and you reap a golden harvest— disregard them and disappointment and loss are the certain result. The following pages are designed to impart : 1st. A knowledge of these laws. 2d. Instruction how to comply with their requirements, 3d. Caution against their violation. To accomplish these ends we have endeavored : 1st. To bring the language within the comprehension of the man of limited education and means, to whom bee-keeping com- mends itself on account of its large pecuniary returns for the capital and attention required. 2d. To present, the practical part of the subject fuUy and yet briefly, believing, as we do, that condensation, to the greatest possible extent consistent with a full exposition of the subject, not only diminishes the cost but increases the value of a work of this kind. 3d. To convey the most valuable knowledge, we have drawn ' from every available source, not having been ambitious to write a work purely original. Yet, as theories are worthless unlewi VI PREJ-ACE. founded in truth, we have only accepted facts which have been demonstrated by eminent apiarians, and confirmed by many years' experience of our own, devoted aknost exclusively to bee culture. In our investigations in apiarian science, we have received material aid from the writings of Huber, Bevan, Dzierzon, Quinby, Harbison, Langstroth, Miner, Metcal^ Wagner, and many others, both ancient and modem. Although the demand which called this work into existence was created by the favor with which the bee-keeping pubhc received the American side-opening hive, yet we have endeav- ored to adapt the instruction to the use of both common and movable-comb hives. N. H. & H. A. KING. PREFACE TO THE REVISED EDITION. The size, cost, and character of the "Bee-Keepers* Text Book" procured for it a great circulation. Simplicity of language^ clearness of statement, and practical directness made it for years acceptable to to the general reader and a real hand book to the apiarian. When writ- ten it was abreast of the times ; but new discoveries and inventions in apiculture render it necessary to revise the book so as to furnish all needed information to thousands now entering upon this promising industry. The old book was written in the era of patents and partly, in the interest of the American Hive, and treated partly of management in common box hives. Patents on important parts of hives are now ended, and information for management in common box hives is not now Many good movable comb hives aie made at present and the only need now is for a text book to guide the beekeeper in the various mani- pulations of the apiary and adapted to all the improvements in bee- keeping, which is destined to become one of the great industries of America. Since the publication of the old book the invention of the Honey Extractor, and the successful use of artificial Comb-foundation have materially changed the mode of management necessary to secure the greatest results. In addition to these two great discoveries, im- proved smokers, feeders, and modes of securing and packing honey in Viii PBEFACB TO THE BEVISSD EDITIOK: boxes, jars, and packages best suited to the market, are of such import- ance that we no"w issue THE NEW BEE-KEEPEBS' TEXT BOOK, in which all that is good in the old book is retained; that which has been out-grown, left out; and additions made, covering the full use of all im" provements in bee-keeping so as to secure the very best results. We confidently commend the "New Bee-keepers' Text Book" to all lovers of nature and all interested in this industry. The beginner will find in it just such information and guidance as he daily needs, and the advanced apiarian will find it a useful hand- book and companion. New Yobk, June 20th, 1878. INTRODUCTION. BEE-KEEPING. The culture of tlie honey bee lias engaged the attention of intelligent and enterprising men of all ages ; yet within a few years, by the introduction of improved movable frames and other improvements, this pursuit, always attractive, is rendered no longer a business of "luck" or chance, but as certain and more remunerative, with small capital, than any other rural occupation. About five years ago, it was estimated, in the "American Bee Journal," that there were then seventy thousand bee* keepers in the United States, many attending to several apiaries, with from one hundred to three hundred swarms in each, and yet, with the increasing light and interest, hundreds, all over the country, are engaging in this branch of industry. In the mind of the uninformed but enquiring reader, a few questions will arise, which we will here only briefly notice, as he can refer, from the index, to each subject — ^more fully treated under its appropriate head. Is there not danger of overstocking the country f Says M. Quinby, one of the most extensive bee-keepers in the world, "this interest in bees should be encouraged to continue till enough are kept to collect all the honey now wasted, which, ccmpared with the present collections, would be more than a thousand pounds to one." INTRODUCTION. Do not some fail of success in hee-keeping ? Yes, just as the farmer fails who neglects his fences, plows his lands when too wet, or crops them until their fertihty is exhausted. So in bee-keeping. Some fail through gross neglect, or allow their bees to become so weakened by overswarming as to fall an easy prey to the moth ; while others " divide " till they are left without "quotient" or "remainder." Let us profit by their experience, and prosperity will be the result. Is not watching for swarms^ hiving, c&c, perplexing in large apiaries ? Yes : and you wiU find a complete remedy in the chapter on "Nucleus Swarming," which enables you to swarm many stocks at one time, securing to each new swarm a fertile queen, without removing the old queen from the parent stock or scarcely inter- rupting its labors. By this method, you will obtain a steady increase of stocks, avoid queenless swarms by loss of young queens ; thus, aU colonies are kept strong, enabling them to bid defiance to the moth-miller and other enemies. This, in the words of an eminently practical bee-keeper, "is both sure and economical;" doing away with all watching and loss by flight to the woods. Is it true that there are only a few who understand the secret of handling or " charming " hees f That there are a few who claim to have some great secret, and convince gaping crowds by performing tricks and wonder- ful [?] feats with bees, (not forgetting to pocket the proceeds of the supposed secret,) we readily admit. Yet, it is also true that there are hundreds of sucoessfiil bee-keepers in the United States, INTRODUCTION. who esteem the good of the cause and their reputation, of more value than money thus obtained from the uninformed, and freely communicate instruction how to safely perform all needful opera- tions. One of them says, " acquaint yourself with the principles of management^ * * and you will find that you have httle more reason to dread the sting of a bee than the horns of a favorite cow, or the heels of your faithful horse." WHO SHOULD KEEP BEES? We reply, all classes who want a healthy, pleasant and profit- able occupation. Says Rev. Robert Baird, "there are few portions of our country which are not admirably adapted to the culture of the honey bee. The wealth of the nation might be increased by millions of doUars, if every family favorably situated, would keep a few hives. No other branch of industry can be named, in which there need be so little loss on the material employed, or which so completely derives its profits from the vast and exhaust- less domains of nature." The Farmer should keep Bees to coUect the honey afforded by his orchards, timber lands and broad pasture fields; for "profit must attend success in this branch of the farmer's stock, inas- much as bees work for nothing and find themselves." The Mechanic should keep Bees^ as those who work in wood can make their own hives, beside supplying their neighbors; and all wiU find that, for the little time and capital required, it wiU materially affect their expenses and income. The Horticulturist should keep Bees to gather the delicious Xli INTRODUCTION nectar which "would else be lost on desert air," and also to mingle the pollen of flowers, for Trees -vnll flourish all the more, When flowers mate by rifled store. The Invalid^ bj spending a portion of his time in the open air, caring for his bees, will not only find his purse replenished, but, what is better, returning health. He who with health would live at ease, Should cultivate both fruit and bees ; . Much labor though the first demands, The second 's for more feeble hands. The Merchant and Professional Man^ and all who spend much of their time indoors^ will find in bee-keeping a pleasant, health* fill outdoor pastime, invigorating to both mind and body. Those who own no land may keep Bees. In raising horses or cattle, one must own or hire his pasture lands. They are very serviceable, but they must he fed. Bees require but Httle room, and find their own food ; for " roam where they will, the whole region is their common." The Aged, and in short, every person, who wishes to engage in a light occupation, which wiU secure health, ease and indepen- dence, should give this subject an earnest and candid examination Bees multiply rapidly, and one who has ten stocks, may, with care, soon expect to have a hundred, and a moderate increase need not interfere with a large annual harvest of honey. To the wants of what class , of mankind has not the Creator admirably adapted the industry of this insect, and how eloquently this adaptation speaks of his goodness, wisdom and care for the welfare of his creatures ? TABLE OF CONTENTS. .—•♦♦♦--—« Page- Copiotrs Alphabetioai, Index IS Chapter I. Physiology of Bees 19 Chapteb 11. Natural Swarming 25 Chapter III. Bee Pasturage and Products 45 Chapter IV. Extractors, Comb Foundations, Surplus Honey in Boxes and Extracted, Marketing Honey 58 Chapter V. Artificial Swarming 9-4 Chapter VL The Apiary.. 124 Chapter VIL Diary of Honey Plants 160 Chapter VIII. Monthly Management 181 Chapter IX. Hives 200 Chapter X. Biography of Bee Keepers 212 o ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Absconding Swarms, 26, 27— How Prevented, 32— How Captured 128 Advantages of Bee Keeping, 9 — Who should Keep Bees, 11— Profits of, 74 157 Advantages of the Nucleus System of Swarming 105 Advantages Secured in the Construction of Hives .201 After Swarming, 33— Cause of and How Prevented 34 Age of Bees, 20— Queens, 20— Drones, 21— Worker 22 Alsike Clover 168 Apiary, 124— Best Location, 125— How to Stock it, 127— Monthly Management.. 181 Anger of Bees, 10 — How Subdued 42 Ants, How to Banish them from the Apiary 143 Artificial Swarming— Time for, 95— Different Methods 97 August Management 194 Bar Hives and Bar Frames used in Germany 202 Basswood or Linden affords much Choice Honey 46,51, 163 Bee Bread or Pollen, 51— Rye Meal Best Substitute for 52 Bee Feeders 155 Bee Glue or Propolis 52 Bee Houses, 126— A Shed Best and how Constructed 126 Bee Keeping, 9— Profits of, 157— How to Commence 128 Bee Pasturage, 45— Crops Most Valuable for both Seed and Honey 49 Bee Stings, 79— How to Neutralize the Poison 44 xiv ^ ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Bee's Tongue 78 Bee Veil M, 84 Bees, Three Classes, 19— Worker, 22— Queen, 21— Her Fertilization, 32— Her Loss, 35— Signs of 56 Bees, Killing with Brimstone to Obtain Honey 201 Bees, Naturfi Swarming, 25 — Hiving, 21— How to Prevent them from Leaving the Hive, 32— Wintering , 146 Bees Wild, How to Hunt Them, 130— How to Trap Eobbers or Wild Bees Without Finding the Tree 133 Bees, Italian, 107— Superiority of, 109— How to Change Stocks of Common Black Bees to Italians 114 Bees, Monthly Managent of, 181— Quieting and Handling, 42— Moving, 135 — Transferring Bees and Combs into Frame Hives 136,138 Beeswax Extractor 60,89 Bellows Smoker 43 Borage 175 Boneset or Thoroughwort 176 Biography of Bee Keepers 212, 229 Boxes for Surplus Honey, 63— How to Induce the Bees to Commence and Continue Working in them 66 Breeding 23 Buckwheat a Valuable Pasturage, 47 — Tirae of Sowing 50 Buying Bees, How to Select Valuable Stock 127 Cage for Queen, , 122 Candy as Food for Bees in Winter, 153 Catnip as a Honey Crop, 46—51 Catnip, Motherwort and Hoarhound 175 Caution to the Beginner, 84 Cells, different size of Drone and Worker, 24— Royal Cells 102 Cocoon spun by Young Bee as left in the Cell, 56 Colony, if Prosperous, consists of, 19 Color of Hives, 205 Comb Foundation, 61— How to Fasten in Frame, 87— Advantage of Using it, 88 Comb, Composition of, 52— To secure it Built True in Frames, 54 Comb, Drone and Worker, 24, 100 — To Preserve from Moth, 144 Comb, only Defective to be Removed, 56 — Melting into Wax 57 City Bee Keeping, 71 Consumption of Honey, 74 Cultivating Honey Crops, 49 Dampness Injurious to Bees, 56, 151 December Management, .198 Defective Combs, 56 Dedication, 3 Deformed Cells, 77 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. xv Derivation of word Bee, 76 Description of New Improvements, 86 Diary of Honey Plants, 160, 180 Dividing, 97 Doubling Stocks Yearly by Nucleus Swarming, 106 Driving or Forced Swarming, 97 Drones, 21— Drone Comb, 24, 100— Drone Cells, 77 Eggs, Number Laid, 20 — How Fecundated, 21 — Time to Mature, 24 February Management, 182 Feeding Bees, ^ 153 Fertility of Queen, 20— Decreases with Age, 37— Italian most Prolific, 109 Fertilization of Young Queens, 82 Fertilization in Confinement, 210 Flowers for Bees, 46 Flour a Substitute for Pollen, 52 Foul Brood, 209 Frames, Moveable, their Invention and Improvement 202 Fruit Trees, 160 Fruit Tree»Flowers "Valuable to Induce Early Swarming, 24, 45 Golden Kod and Asters, 171, 175 Handling Bees, 42 Hatching and Fertilization of Queens, 32 Hives, 200— Hive Essentials, 203 Honey Boxes, 63 Honey Comb, 77 Honey Crate, 67 Honey Crops, 49 Honey, Different Qualities Gathered, 45— Stored in Frames, 129— In Boxes, 20O Honey Extractor, 59, 60 — Advantages of. 91 Honey Industry, 74 How to Prevent Swarms from Leaving their Hives, 32 How to Prevent Swarms from Clustering together, 29 How to Separate Them, 30 How to get the Comb Built True in the Frame, 54 How to Stock an Apiary, 127 Hunting Wild Bees, 130— Trapping Them 133 Introduction, 9 Introducing an Italian Queen 115, 117 Increase of Stocks 15 Impregnation of Queen Bee 20, 33, 103 Importance of New Blood in the Apiary HI Italian Honey Bee 107 Italian Queen Rearing 114, 118, 120 Italianizing a Whole- Apiary 116 xvi ALPHABETICAL INDEX. January Management 181 June Management 190 July Management 192 Locust Tree a Great Honey Producer 46 Loss of Queens, 35 — Signs of. 37 Lucerne Clover 169 Making Hives in Winter 204 March Management 184 May Management 188 Marketing Honey '. 67 Medicinal Power of Honey 73 Melilot 170 Melting Comb into Wax 57 Mingonette 177 Moth-Miller, Fear Misdirected 142 Monthly Managment 181 Movable Comb Hive 203 Moving Bees 125 Mustard 40,50,178 Natural Swarming : 25 Non-Swarming 41 November Management... 198 Nucleus Swarming, 101 — Advantages of 105 Observation Hive 206 October Managment 196 Ovaries of the Queen Bee 81 Overstocking 47 Painting Hives 205 Perennial Plants 167 Piping of Young Queens 34 Pollen, or Bee Bread 61 Poplar or Tulip Tree Secretes much Honey 46 Preface 5 Preface to the Revised Edition 7 Prevention of Swarming 41 Profits of the Apiary 156 Propolis or Bee Glue 52 Purchasing Bees 127 Queen Bee, 19— Hatching and Fertilization of, 33— Loss of. 35 Queen Cage, 122— Queen Cell, 77-80— How Transferred 102 Queenless Stocks, 35— Signs 36 Quieting Bees 42 Raspberries Yield Much Fine Honey 46, 162 Removing Honey Boxes 94 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. xvii Removing Defective Comb , 56 Robbing, 140— Trapping Robbers or Wild Bees 133 Royal Cells, 26, 33, 162— Royal Jelly 25 Raising Italian Queens as a Business 11 Rye Meal Best Substitute for Pollen to Induce Early Breeding 52 Second and Third Swarms or After Swarms 33 September Management „..., ,..., 195 Shipping Queens ,, 122 Stands , , 124, 125 Smoke to Quiet Bees ,,.,..,....,... 43 Small Fruits ,..,, 162 Small Boxes for the Nuclei, ,,,.,,,, •. 119 Southern Honey Trees ..„..,„.„,,,...,,,„......... 163 Sour-Wood or Sorrel-Tree A ,,.,,,„ 165 Stings, How to Neutralize the Poison..., ,, 44 Statistics of the Honey Industry , 74 Surplus Honey, 105 — In Boxes ,..„„..,.,,,.....,, ,.... 89 Swarming Natural, 25— Signs of, 27 — Prevention of,,,.,,,., 41 Swarming Artificial, 95 — Nucleus , ,...,,,...,,, , 109 Taking Bees on Shares ,„ „..., , 128 Taking up Light Stockj ..„, 129 Tansy to Banish Ants ,,.,,.,... 143 The Sumac .,.....,.,„ , 166 Teasel „.,„..„„,.,.., 175 The Circular Saw , ,„., 206 Title Page ,,...., 1 Transferring Bees and Comb from Box Hives,,,.., 136-138 Trees for Pasturage, 48— For Shade , 125 Uncapping Knife „,,....,,„„.., 59 Uniting Stocks .., ". 39 Uses of Honey , , 68 Ventilation „„.., 147, 197 View of our Home Apiary ., ,. 76 Wax , ,..,..., 57 White Clover, 45 — As a Honey Crop ,..,.,.....,..,.... 49 Who Should Keep Bees 11 Wire Foundation , 55 Wintering Bees 145, 152 Worker Cells 77 Worker Bee, 22— Worker Comb , 24 Worms 144, 145 Wren ^...... « 143 ILLUSTRATIONS Abdomen of Worker Bee Magnified 63 Alsike Clover les Bass-wood 164 Bee's Sting 79 Bee's Tongue 78 Bees- wax Extractor 60 Bellows Smoker 43 Blue Aster 174 Body of Bee 82 Brood Comb 26 Circular Saw. 208 Comb Foundation Machine -. 62 Eggs Shown in the Cells 80 Fertile Queen 33 Golden Rod ,. — 172 Honey Comb 77 Honey Crate 67 Honey Extractor.; 68 Honey in Boxes and Bottles 68 Larvae and Royal Jelly so Leg of Bee 82 Male and Female Moth Miller 142 Melilot. 171 Oblong Munn Frame 203 Ovaries of the Queen Bee.. 81 Portrait of W. W. Cary 22j Portrait of Rev. Father Dzlerzon 2i7 Portrait of Francis Huber 213 Portrait of Rev. H. A. King 22ii Portrait of Prof. Leuckart 224 Portrait, of Rev. L. L. Langstroth 218 Portrait of Moses Quinby 216 Portrait of Rev. E. Van Slyke : 229 Portrait of Baron Von Berlepsch 221 Portrait of Capt. T. B. Siebold 222 Queen Cells , 32 Queen Cell Cat Open 80 Queen Cell Inserted 102 Queen Drone and Worker Bee 19 Taylor's Frame 20i Transfering Tools 136 Uncapping Knife 69 View of our Home Apiary 76 CHAPTEK I. PHYSIOLOGY OF THE THREE CLASSES. A PKOSPEROUScolony of bees, at the beginning of the "swarm ing season," consists of a fertile queen, a few hundred dronei and about forty thousand workers. The annexed cuts will give a fair representation of the three classes into which this insect community is divided. Queen. The Queen is a perfectly developed female, and the prolific parent of the whole colony — the mother of every bee it con- tains. " Mother Bee " is her most appropriate and truthfiil name, as laying eggs appears to be the sole end of her existence, and the only duty she performs. This fact is beautifully demon- strated by removing a native queen and introducing an Italian queen in her stead. If the change is made in November, few common bees will remain by the following May ; or if made in June, the yellow workers will begin to appear in a few weeks, 20 PHYSIOLOGY OF THE THREE CLASSES. and by September scarcely a black bee can be found in the hive. In the height of honey gathering, and under the most favorable circumstances the queen will deposit about three thousand egga per day. She is distinguished from the other bees by her form, color and size, being longer and darker colored upon the back than either drone or worker. But the Italian queen is much hghter colored than either the Italian drone or worker, the larger part of her body being of a golden yellow. The queen is of slender structure, with comparatively short wings, and is usually recognized by her measured matronly movements and her long, finely tapered abdomen. She usually lives from three to four years. If her death occur when there are drones in the apiary and young worker brood or eggs in the hive, or if she is soon to leave the hive with a first swarm, the workers construct large cells, supplying them with "royal jeUy," and the eggs or larvae that would otherwise have produced worker bees are developed into queens. Only one queen is allowed to remain in the hive. The queen has a curved sting, but will use it only when contending with rival queens, as she cannot tolerate a rival within the hive. Eggs are sometimes laid by the young queen before her impregnation, but they invariably produce drones. She usually leaves the hive when about five days old to meet the drones in the air for im- pregnation, which— once accomphshed — suffices for life, as ordi- narily she never afterwards leaves the hive except when accom- panying a first swarm. The drone semen or sperm is retained in the spermatheca of the queen, a small sac near the point of her abdomen, and when laying, as the egg passes from the THIC DKONE. 21 queen s ovary, it is brought in contact with the drone sperm to produce workers, or is allowed to pass without such contact to produce drones, the same as eggs laid before her impregnation. Some have supposed this contact to be pn^duced bj compression of the queen's abdomen, caused by the size of the cells in which workers are reared, they being much smaller than drone cells. This theory is disproved by the fact that a stock deprived of its drone-comb, will sometimes rear drones in worker cells ; besides, in comb-building, the queen wiU frequently deposit eggs in the cells while their walls are scarcely an eighth of an inch long and ccuid cause no pressure. THE DRONE. " The drones are the males, and do not work for the supporUoJ the hive, hut lead an idle life, feeding upon the produce of others Ifibor" — Richardson. The drones are more bulky, though somewhat shorter, than the queen, and, unhke her, their wings are long enough to cover ine entire abdomen. They are much larger than the workers, and have a clumsy, uncouth appearance. When flying, their loud, boisterous hum is easily recognized. Being without a sac for carrying honey or grooves on their thighs for poUen, they are physically disqualified for performing any labors of the hive. Their proboscis is too short for extracting the nectar from flow- ers, and being destitute of a sting, they cannot assist in protect- ing the stores from robbery. They axe called into existence at the approach of the swarming season to fertilize the young queens. As impregnation is eSected while on the wing, the 22 PHYSIOLOGY OF THE THREE Oi^ASSES. drones k-^ve the hive in consideraole numbers about noon, on fine days, and the young queens make their excursions soon af- ter. Whenever this service is supposed to be accompHshed for the season, they are relentlessly driven forth and destroyed by the workers. A stock of bees that has lost its queen and failed to rear another, will retain drones after all others are destroyed, and frequently throughoat the winter. Without drones the young queens would remain barren, and the race soon become extinct. The number of drones in a hive is often very large, amounting to hundreds and even thousands. In a state of na- ture, or where but one or two hives are kept, a greater propor- tion of drones are necessary as the young queen, when making her "bridal trip," should be sure of a speedy meeting, for, when roaming long in search of one, she is more Hable to accidents. Where several colonies are kept, if each rear a few dozen drones there will be enough, in the aggregate, for all practical purposes. In movable comb hives aU excess of drone comb should be removed, and the production of useless consumers thus pre vented. THE WORKER. The workers, although the most diminutive m size of the three classes, are ahke the wonder and admiration of the student ot nature. When we consider their unvarying God implanted instincta, whether displayed in hoarding rich stores for future use, in their matchless architectural skill, as seen in comb-building, or in their entire devotion to the welfare of the queen and her numerous, BBEEDING. 23 maturing progeny, we are constrained to regard them as the most wonderful class of this insect family. The average age of the worker is but a few weeks during summer, and from six to nine months dunng the cooler part of the year. As regards the sex of the workers, modern writers agree in classing them as undeveloped females. They are incapable of fertilization by the drone, yet, occasionally in queenless colonies, one will be found laying eggs, which, being unfertilized, never produce workers but drones only. This laying need not be mistaken as the work of a fertile queen, for, unhke her uniform laying, these eggs are deposited regard- less of order, some cells containing several and others none. The bees destroy the excess, and the remaining eggs produce perfect drones. The workers are so well known that a minute description would seem superfluous in a Hand Book. Upon them devolves all the labor of collecting and defending the stores, building comb, feeding and protecting the queen and brood, and expelling the drones when they are no longer necessary to the well-being of the colony. In short, they rule and regulate the whole econ- omy of the hive, performing all its offices except those which have direct referonce to the reproduction of the species. BREEDING. The yield of honey Btrength of the colony, the season of the year, and other circumstances have considerable influence, both on the amount of brood reared and the time required for its de- velopment. In this latitude, the average time from the lajing :>f 24 PHYSIOLOGY OF THE THREE CLASSES. the egg to the appearance of the perfect insect, is, for the work er, twenty-one days; for the drone, twenty-four; and for the queen, about sixteen days. The cells, in which the workers are reared, are the smallest in size, those for drones nearly one-third larger, and a queen cell stiU larger and of pecuhar foraij requir- ing as much material for its construction as fifty worker cells. In strong colonies, having plenty of stores, the queen will often de- posit eggs in every month of the year, the least brood being reared between October and January. During this time the brood often occupies a small circle in the centre of the cluster of bees exactly opposite on each side of a comb. Smaller circles are next occupied in the two adjoining combs. The circle of eggs in the first comb is then enlarged, and more added in the others, continuing to spread to other combs, keeping the distance from the centre or place of beginning to the outside of the circle about equal on all sides. The effect of this is to produce a con- centration and economy of the animal heat for developing the various changes of the brood. On the approach of spring, an increased amount of brood is reared, and as early spring flowers appear the bees go to work in earnest, to provide limpid honey and freshly gathered pollen for the queen and her numerous off- spring. "When the fruit trees unfold their pink and snowy blos- soms, rich supplies are garnered by the busy throng of workers. Breeding goes on apace. The latent swarming impulse begins to be felt, and if the weather continues warm and balmy, we boob arrive at the swarming season. CHAPTER n. NATURAL SWAEMINQ. The swarming season is one of unusual interest to the bte* keeper. He hopes soon to commence his annual harvest both of swarms and surplus honey. The issue of natural swarms is al- most wholly dependent upon continued warm growing weather. June is the great swarming month in the northern States.- Yet, when the spring is unusually favorable, we get an occasional swarm as early as the middle of May, and many about the last of that month. Again, swarming may not commence until July. Bees will often rear. drones, construct queen cells, and be just on the point of swarming, when a few days of bad weather will cause the drones and embryo queens to be destroyed, and swarm- ing to be postponed indefinitely. As much time must be spent in preparation when this occurs, it will require several weeks be- fore swarms can issue, though the weather be never so favorable. Bees, like some human beings, seem most discontented when most prosperous. If the season is favorable, the May flowers will scarcely have appeared till the swarming fever begins in- stinctively to steal over the colony, affecting equally, perhaps, both queen and workers. The first step of preparation taken ia the rearing of drones, by an early deposit of eggs in the drone cells by the queen. As these mature and the "lusty fellows " 26 NATURAL SWABMING. throng the entrance, if the weather is warm and pastniage abund ant, a few queen cells will be commenced at difierent times by the workers. These, in most cases, are suspended from the edges or inequalities of the combs, with their open end downward. From three to ten queen cells are commonly constructed, and the egg or larvaB, is lavishly supplied with "royal jelly," a pungent, stimulating, light cream-colored substance, when the cell is lurthei lengthened down and sealed over. It is now about an inch long, and resembles a pea-nut in shape and appearance. In movable comb hives, these queen cells are easily found by looking over the combs about the time swarms are expected. You can hardly mistake them even tbougli you never «aw one before. It is better to swarm bees artificially and not wait for natural swarming. But since bees (will) some- times swarm when carefully managed, and since beekeepers are gometimes un- able for some reason to give attention before they swarm, all should understand the indications of swarming and the modes of hiving swarms. Bees are not apt to swarm before the hive is strong in numbers, young bees are hatching in 4. This cut represents brood in various abundancc, dfoues are flying, and the stages from eggs and larvae in the lower part of the comb to brood capped at K, .1 • i x rrw. ^t- X.^.^ and just emergidg at r; n, is a queen Weather IS pleasaut. ThCSC are UOt, hOW- cell just commenced from larvie; b, a romUhrhThe'iue^ThasrusI'em'e^gTi! evcr, sure indications of swarming. HIVING BEES 27 The progress of these cells is the only certain indication of swarming, and when one or more have been capped over, the swarm is ready to leave for its new and sometimes distant home. The first warm, clear day is generally improved, when the mass of workers, after hastily filling their sacs with provisions for their journey, rush "pell mell" from the hive, accompanied by th« queen, with great "noise and confusion." After flying a short time, they usually cluster upon some over- hanging branch, more or less elevated. Hives should be kept in readiness, as success depends greatly upon promptness in hiving swarms as they issue, for, if left hanging in the heat of the sun, they soon become impatient and often fly off" and are lost in con sequence. HIVING BEES. The process of hiving is extremely simple And pretty generally understood; if the new hive is cool and clean the bees are not slow in taking possession. If the swarm has clustered upon a bush or tree near the ground, spread down a sheet or piece ol canvas directly under or as near the swarm as practicable. If a table will bring the hive very near the cluster use one. Kemove the cover and qnilt and shake the bees directly into the hive if convenient. If not, jar the bees in front of the hive after opening the front entrances, or raising the hive an inch from the bottom board, leaving no opening beneath, which they may mistake for the hive, and guide them to the entrance with a twig. Home will soon discover the new home, and by their joyful ham communicate the glad tidings to the whole swarm. Hav- 23 NATURAL SWARMING. ing filled themselves with honey before leaving the old hive, they are usually peaceable and almost as harmless as flies. If they should clog the entrance, disturb them gently with the feather end of a quill, and, if any cluster upon the outside, brush them down and see that all enter lest the queen be left out. Now, let the hive down upon the board, and immediately carry it to the place it is intended to occupy in the apiary. Raise the front edge half an inch, and shade the hive from the sun. The few bees left flying will soon return to the old stock from which the swarm issued. But if the swarm is left where it was hived till evenmg, many bees will have commenced gathering honey, and, having carefully marked their new location, will, as they fly out, the next morning return to this place and perish. If a swarm should cluster upon a high hmb or body of a tree, ascend upon a ladder and shake or brush them into a basket, and cover it over with a cloth to prevent their flying. The basket may be lowered with a cord to an assistant, or brought down, and gently poured upon the sheet at the entrance of the hive. When the swarm nas clustered upon a small hmb, it may be carefully severed with- out disturbing the cluster, and carried to the hive. Hold them to the entrance until some discover the hive, when all will gladly enter. If a swarm cluster in some inaccessible place, as the forks of a tree, they may often be induced to enter a box inverted above them, by smoking or shghtly sprinkling them with water, or by partly covering the box to make it resemble the entrance to a hive, brush a few in and they will soon call in the whole swarn. From the box they are shaken directly into the hive, or made to enter TO PE EVENT SWAEMS CLUSTEEING TOGETHEB. 29 from the raised front as before. A hiving basket is easily made by taking a small basket and covering one side of the top with cloth. To the handle and the rim of the covered side of the basket a handle is fixed which may be lengthened by fixing to it pieces of difi"erenfc lengths. This is raised directly under the swarm and the bees jarred from the limb into it and then poured into the hive. In this way hiving is quickly accomplished; and dispatch in hiving is important, as in very large apiaries, if natural swarming is permitted, much difficuhv is often experienced from two or more swarms issuing about the same time, when, unless prevented, they are almost certain tc unite. It is some trouble to separate them and have a queen for each. Therefore, when many swarms are expected, the apiary should be closely watched. TO GUAED AGAINST SWARMS CLUSTERING TOGETHER. At times, the swarming fever seems to be contagious. One swarm wiU scarcely have settled till another stock, and another, wiQ send forth their crazy legions to darken the air and make "confusion worse confounded." The watchful bee-keeper will judge from the state of the weather and the condition of his stocks, when these things are likely to happen. "While a swarm is issuing, if other colonies " hang out " threateningly, he should immediately sprinkle these outsiders with water, or blow a few whi£fe of smoke into each hive. This will sHghtly discon- cert tliem, and probably give time for hiving the swarm already tf'it. If, however, one should start when the first is but partially 30 ' NATURAL SWARMING. hived, let him quickly cover it with a sheet to i^revent a union, and give his attention to the new comers. These must now be hived ; and when mostly in, if no others have started, uncover the first, that the stragglers flying may be divided between the two. But, should the second swarm start before the first has settled, he will hardly prevent their clustering together. After a swarm has started it is impossible to check it, without closing the entrance, which would be a dangerous and often fatal experiment. Beside, the queen may have been among the first to start, and she would be a serious loss. When two swarms unite, if the bee-keeper's time is precious and his hive large enough, he may hive them together. When put in the movable comb hive, give such double swarms access to the surplus boxes immediately. They will usually store about one-third more surplus honey than a single swarm, but they will be worth no more at the end of the season, than each would have been had they remained separate. Hence, if the swarms are early and large, and the weather continues favorable, it is better to divide the swarm at the end of a week. (See " Nucleus Swarming.") However, if a movable-comb hive is not at hand, it will pay to take some trouble TO SEPARATE SWARMS THAT CLUSTER TOGETHER. In separating two swarms that have clustered together, the object is to get a queen for each. To do this, spread down a sheet, placing an empty hive upon each end. Shake your bees upon the sheet between the hives and sprinkle them with a httle water, which will retard their movements and give a good chance SEPARATING DOUBLE SWAKMS* 31 to see the queens as they pass along. "With a quill or brush, start the bees each way, having two or three feet for them to travel to reach each hive. Keep the bees moving and the en- trances open. "Wa'tch for the queen near one entrance, while an assistant watches at the other hive. Both queens are often seen as they crawl over the sheet. If both are found, divide the bees equally, giving a queen to each hive, and the work is done. Should you find but one, secure her in a tumbler. Divide the bees about equally, and, by watching them a few minutes, you will soon see where your queen is needed, as those without a queen will show the usual symptoms, by running about the en- trance and up the outside of the hive as if in search of some thing. Present the queen to them and they will soon become quiet. But, should neither queen be seen, you stand one chance in two of getting a queen in each hive. "Watch them fifteen or twenty minutes. If one shows signs of being queenless close up the entrances and remove to the stand it is to occupy, being careful to give sufficient ventilation. Now, shake the part that has the queens again upon the sheet, making them travel some distance to reach the hive. Yoo will seldom fail to find one of the queens. Secure her in a tumbler or queen cage, and as soon as all the bees are in, remove the hive to its permanent stand. Open the other hive and place the queen ^t the en- trance and the bees wiU receive her joyfully. The two hives should be placed some distance apart on separate stands, and each should have a comb or two of brood inserted. 32 NATURAL SWARMING TO PREVENT NEW SWARMS FROM LEAVING THEIR HIVES. Natural swarms will occasionally refuse to stay after having been hived, usually in consequence of heat or strong odors about the hive. In nucleus swarming this seldom or never happens, because the beea are never without a comb containing brood and honey; and this they will not leave voluntarily. Therefore, when hiving a swarm in a movable-comb hive, go to any stock that can spare a comb containing brood and honey. Brush back the bees, being careful not to remove the queen or any queen- cells with the comb, and place it in the hive that is to receive the new swarm. It will not only prevent the bees from decamp-' ing but will greatly encourage them, and should bad weather confine them to the hive they will be secure from starvation. If the swarm is put in a common hive, place over them a box ol honey, taken from the parent stock. HATCHING AND FERTILIZATION OF QUEENS In about eight days after the old queen leaves with the first swarm, the most advanced sealed queen is ready to emerge. During this time the old stock is without a hatched queen. The young queen im- mediately upon leaving her ceU, if not restrained by the workers, commences the work of destruction upon her yet imprisoned sisters. She accomplishes this by biting open the side of each ceU near its base, and dispatching the unfortunate inmate with her sting. She is yet incompetent for the maternal duty, and must leave the hive to meet the drones in the air for BATCHING AxVD FERTILIZATION OF QUEENS. 33 \\ie purpose of fertilizatioc. This once accomplished, the work- ers, awaiting her safe return, greet her with a reverence and aflcxition never shown before. They hasten to prepare the cells to receive her tiny eggs, and seem to realize that on her the existence and perpetua- tion of the family depends. There Fertile Queen. -^ ^j^^ ^ perceptibls change in the ^'^P''^*^^ wer box as the broodnest, and the upper one as the cap, or upper chamber. As to hives, adopt some good pattern, and stick to it. Make them so exact that every part of each will fit with that part of another. This is very important for many advantages are gained in an apiary by the in- terchange of frames and parts of hives. For entrances, we recommend only one in front, three-eighths by three inches, which can be supple- mented by auger holes above. These can be stopped with corks for winter. Every hive should have at least one closely fitting divison board in order to contract the space for the colony according to its strength and the season. Do not be afraid of^ feeding bees when no honey is gathered in the fields. If done regularly and systematically it will often repay one himdred fold. (See " Feeding," page 112). Always aim to keep strong colonies. These are always the best in every respect, except at times when a number of queens are to be rear- ed. Then nwcZeus, or small hives may be used. (See "Queen Bearing.") Strong stocks will be most apt to rear bright Italian queens, but if the weather is cold queens are more apt to be dark colored. In handling queens never catch them by the body, but by the wing. In searching 84 MANAGEMENT OF BEES. in the hive for the queen she is most apt to be found on combs from which young bees are just hatching. It is best to open hives in the warm part of the day, both because then the propolis is soft and the combs are not necessarily jarred in removing them, and because then most of the old bees are absent in the fields. In opening a hive blow smoke into the entrance for a few moments, until the subdued hum is distinctly heard, and as the quilt is lifted from one comer, follow it up with smoke. Stand on the side towards which the wind is blowing, least your breath madden the bees. Kemember that the human breath is very offensive to them, and do not breathe directly on them, or you may suffer thereby. "We recommend beginners always to use a bee veil to to protect the face, and if fearful, also at first, rubber gloves or coarse yam ones. Gloves of buckskin, leather, and kid have proved of little value, as bees easily sting through them. It is well to have an extra veil or two on hand for use by a visiting friend. As one becomes accustomed to the work he can by degrees leave these off as he finds himself able. But we would caution against entering hives carelessly, because they have been very gentle. Sometimes when the honey ceases to flow, a colony here- tofore the most peaceable, will sting severely if opened without proper precaution. Let no patent man beguile you into using moth traps. Strong colon- ies are the best preventives against their depredations. The presence of an infertile or drone-laying queen, or a fertile worker may be suspect- ed by eggs irregularly laid or found dropped about, outside the cells. When honey is scarce in the fields, be careful to leave no sweets expos- ed, and if robbing commences, be quick to stop it, before great mischiei is done. (See "Robbing," page 101). A word of caution is always necessary to the beginner, least he overdo SUEPLUS HONEY IN BOXES AND EXTRACTED. 85 the matter of increasing his stocks. Eemember the bee-keeper is rich, not according to the number, but according to the strength of his colon- ies during the honey season. Never attempt to do more than double your bees if honey is desired, and unless the season is specially good do not make more than one new swarm from two colonies. If an Italian queen is reared for introduction, and you wish to catch her for any purpose, let her fly upon the window, when she can be readily caught by the wing. Decide on the manner of introducing her to the colony to be used, (See "Introducing Queens,'' p. 110) and do it as gently as possible. Eelease the queen when the hive is as quiet as Beginners sometimes think that it is too expensive to paint hives. This is a mistake. One cannot afford nof to paint them, because they will soon injure in exposure to the weather by splitting, swelling, or warping, so as to fit badly, and cause much greater loss than the cost of painting. We prefer three good coats, all white or clouded, though the paints should be of different colors, to be distinguished by the bees. Dark colored hives become much hotter in summer by absorbing the rays of the sun, and the new comb is much more liable to melt down than in white hives. Less expense attends providing proper hives for bees, according to the income derived from them, than any stock about the farm. Stables, barns, sheds, daries, cow-houses, &c., are necessary for stock, which do not yield proportionally better returns than bees, in the management of which, even on a large scale, all that is necessary, are hives — which are of permanent value — a wax extractor, and a honey extractor. Yearly there will be need for comb-foundation, frames, boxes, and crates, or jars. But these last cost no more than what is oftentimes necessary for 86 MANAGEMENT OF BEES. properly marketing some other things. Besides this, a good honey house is necessary, if there is no building at hand to be used for such. Perhaps a more specific description of these later improvements, and the advantages of their use, may be of value to beginners: Brood comb seems to be the foundation of development in a hive . Its presence is necessary to a proper conduct of the business of the hive. If not present, bees must make it before rapid normal development in the hive is possible. Honey-comb is made entirely of pure wax. This is a secre- tion from the body of the bee, [see page 47] . In order to build this comb, they must consume some fifteen or twenty times its weight in honey, besides the time necessary for the wax secretion. The im- portance of giving to bees, combs ready made, has long been known. They will unite and use any scraps of comb which may be preserved and fastened temporarily into frames. Nice pieces of drone comb may advantageously be used in honey boxes. But the difficulty of getting a supply of natural comb, led to various experiments in order to supply, artificially this deficiency. During the last year these sheets of artificial comb-foundation were largely used, and firmly established as of very great utility in the apiary. Until recently, attempts at making artificial comb, both in Germany and England, were from the use of pktes, which were necessarily slow. But more recently, machines have been made by which continuous sheets of wax, of proper thickness, are, on passing between its engrav- ed rollers, impressed on both sides with the exact bottoms of cells as made by the bees, and between each, a shoulder of wax is left which the bees quickly lengthen into side walls. The demand for this article, says one of the largest manufacturers of it, " Is increasing so steadily, that it is quite probable the supply of wax will be the only limit to its manufacture and use. " SUKPLUS HONEY IN BOXES AND EXTRACTED. 87, It is important that pure wax should be used, for all substitutes pro- posed for it have heretofore failed. The wax sheets are made by pipping a sheet of galvanized iron into a vessel of melted wax. By dipping two or three times, according to the temperature of the heated wax, the sheets will be of sufficient thickness- The wax is scaled from the sheets and when well cooled, rolled through the foundation machine. Soap suds rubbed upon the rolls will prevent the sheets from sticking, but as bees seem sometimes to object to it, water into which a little bark, called soap hark is put, is now generally used, and seems to answer as well. "We are, by the advice of A. I. Eoot, now using, with great satisfaction, common starch, prepared as for starching clothes. The roller should be well wet with it before use, and when necessary. These sheets are readily cut up into smaller pieces of any desired dimensions. Perhaps the best way to cut them, where many are used, is with a cutter made from a round piece of tin, filed sharp on the circum- ference and fixed to run as a wheel on a pivot through the centre, which fastens it to the handle. This can be run rapidly along any guide to mark the size required. HOW TO FASTEN COMB-rOUNDATION IN FRAMES. This is done in different ways. It is important that it he fastened firm- ly all along ihe top bar, in order to prevent sagging. Some use melted wax or white glue, but they are troublesome, and when used in honey boxes are apt to leave a lump of the substance on the bar, which is decidedly objectionable. We recommend fastening them by placing the frames bottom upwards on a table, and laying the sheet on the top bar so that the edge comes nearly across it. Now, take a screw driver or piece of smooth firm^ iiqVg 88 • COMB-FOUNDATION IN FBAMES. and rub it down hard to the wood until it adheres all along. One corner of the iron should go entirely to the wood at the finishing stroke. On this tack a small thin strip of wood into the top bar, so placed that when f the sheet is bent up against it, it hangs m the centre of the frame. If the frames have comb guides, the comb is fastened to in it the same manner, but there is not always need for the extra strip to be tacked on. When frames are filled with foundation, they should be hung in an empty hive or similar box so as to be preserved from injury until need- ed. The best way we have seen for fastening comb into the small honey boxes or sections, is to make a small groove or saw cut in the centre of the upper bar and fasten it in by bending it open or by sticking it in whilst warm with wax or glue. There are many advantages gained by the use of comb-foundation, some of which we will enumerate: First. In transferring bees if every other frame be filled with it they vrill aU be filled with straight combs. Second. When bees are inclined to build too much drone comb, the hive is easily filled with worker comb by its use. Third. In early Spring it is very valuable to insert in the broodnest, to stimulate breeding, and assist in rapidily building up the colony or in fc\rming new ones, which otherwise would be checked from the lack of coml/ FoTixth. To insert in a choice hive to secure eggs for queen rear- ing, on a new soft comb on which bees are most apt to build good queen-cells. Fifth To have on hand in extracting, to insert in one or two of the first hives opened, in order to get a supply of combs ahead, so as not to open a hive but once. SUEPLUS HONEY IN BOXES AND EXTIJACTED. 83 Sixth. To insert when full combs of dark honey are set away for wintering. Seventh. To prevent too much drone rearing. Eighth. To give the queen extra room at any time in manipulating a hive when it is not just convenient to extract at the time. Ninth. To secure continuous breeding by feeding, at times when combs are scarce or when bees are loth to build. Tenth. To gather full supplies of fall honey at a time when bees are not inclined to to build comb." Eleventh. To insure at any time straight comb, for easy management. Twelfth. To stimulate bees to work quickly in boxes. It is doubtful whether it is advisable to use much of it in the boxes ; though practiced largely by some, yet a small strip does induce them to work more quick- ly in the boxes. It is extremely important that only pure hees-wax be used, and especi- ally is this the case if any is to be used as the foundation of box honey for the table. This shows the importance of using the Wax Extractor, spoken of on page 53, by which alone pure wax can be obtained. This wax should be carefully saved by every apiarian in a shape suitable to be made into comb foundation, as above described. Those who have the machines advertise to give one pound of foundation for two of pure wax. This exchange is far better for small apiarians, than for them to attempt to make it for themselves. We advise all to avail themselves of the great advantages of comb-foundation, and also of the honey extractor. As many beginners do not understand the principle on which the extractor works, nor the advantages gained by its use, we will here more minutely describe its mechanism, mode of use, and advantages gained by it. 93 THE HONEY EXTRACTOE. It is sometimes called the honey slinger, because when operated the honey is thrown or slung from the cells by centrifugal force, and drawn oflf at the bottom into a receiving vessel. There are various kinds of good extractors in the market, some one of which every apiarian should have. They all act on the centrifugal princple, and consist of a can to catch the honey, and a revolving wire cloth basket within, which receives the comb and turns with it. This should be run with a gearing above. A temporary one might be made with ingenuity, from a large barrel, after painting it well with wax, but good tin ones are now so cheap that it is best and cheapest in the end, to buy one of these. The can should have a faucet near the bottom for drawing ofl the honey. The size of the frame used, regulates both the size of basket and the can. The basket should be of light material built on a shaft which turns in a nut at the bottom, by means of a single gearing at the top Two opposite sides of the basket should be made of tinned wire cloth, supported by strips of tin and a little larger than the frames to be used. The wire cloth against which the combs lie in extracting, should be tinned, and not merely galvanized, for the acids in honey will cor- rode the galvanized iron and poison it to some extent. It should have from three and a half to five meshes to the inch. The basket should be two or three inches from the bottom to give some space for honey below and as much above to prevent it from spraying over the top. The cylinder is made of good tin, with heavy wire in the top to strengthen it. The bottom is made of a round piece of tin, a little larger than the space to be filled by it. From one side cut out a trangular section to the centre or a little beyond, and in its place sodder a similar piece a little larger, and previously bent in to the shape of a trough. The bottom, thus fixed will permit ail the honey to run towards the centre and then down the trough through the faucet. There is fastened on and SUEPLUS HONEY IN BOXES AND EXTRACTED. 91 over this, a tin hoop, four or five inches wide, made stiff with wire on the bottom edge, soldered on for it to rest upon. No covering is needed when in use, but to keep out insects, at other times, any kind of a simple covering will answer, though perhaps none is more convenient than a circular piece of cloth of proper size with a rubber cord in the hem. When honey is gathered plentifully, any convenient shady place answers well for extracting, but if scarce, the combs must be carried into some house out of the way of the bees. Sometimes it is more con- venient to use for this purpose, a movable tent, covered with cotton cloth. If so, it is easily made from scantling for the bottom, and poles which support the cloth fastened in auger holes. They are easily lifted from the holes and folded away when desirable. A little experience will teach one, how fast and long to turn, to extract the honey. Open the hive gently, after smoking the bees for a moment. Shake the bees directly on the top of the frames or on a board in front. In the first method there is less danger of losing the queen or of induc- ing robbing. Brush the bees off with a tuft of broomcorn or a green twig. A feather is not so good; it seems to irritate the bees. Place the comb gently in the extractor, and turn very gently if the comb is new or the frame not filled. If very heavy with honey do not aim to get it all from the first side, until it has been turned, because heavy new comb is injured by the wires mashing into it, when the velocity is great. ADVANTAGES OF THE EXTKACTOR. We caution against a too free use of the extractor, unless prepared to feed if necessary, should a honey drought come when stores are thus too much reduced, or if done too late in the fall. Judiciously used, the extractor is of great advantage in the following points, as given by Kev. J. W. Shearer in The Bee-Keepebs' Magazine, Vol, v., No. 6, page 115: 92 ADVANTAGES OP THE EXTBACTOE. "First. In a good honey harvest, the cells of hatching brood are afterwards filled with honey, so that the queen has little room to rear brood. "When this is the case, the bees will decrease very rapidly, and are sometimes lost. Extracting the honey gives the queen room, stimu- lates the workers, strengthens the swarm, and helps to keep it in good condition to take advantage of the next honey harvest. "Second. Bees will often lay up honey rapidly in combs furnished by extracting, when they will not make new combs. "Third. This is true, especially in the fall harvest, when instinct prompts them to store honey rapidly, when there is but little in the hive. Seldom is more rapid work seen than in a spring colonly closely extracted in the fall. Each bee seems to be racing with his neighbor. Instinct prompts to build but little comb in the fall, and it is often too cool for box building some time before they cease to lay up in the hive. Hence, much less fall honey is obtained, when box honey alone is relied on. The full benefit of fall extracting, is gotten only whtn the apiarian has experience and expertness in rapidly supplying syrup for winter- ing. "Without this, a fear of losing the bees should check a too free use of the extractor. * 'Fourth. "When the extractor is mainly relied on, after a hive has been swarmed, it may be doubled in this way: giving a great deal of comb and a quantity of bees. Swarm a stand by the exchange method, and instead of placing the old stock containing the young workers and brood on a new stand, place them in the second story of this stock. Thus a double set of comb is given, the hive, full of comb, is soon full of bees by the hatching above and below; has a fertile queen below, which is necessarily prolific, whilst much honey is stored above for extracting. ** By this method, instead of increasing by swarming in the summer, SUBPLUS HONEY IN BOXES AND EXTBACTED. 93 strong colonies have the swarming propensity gratified, and are kept at work. By raising queens in August and setting away full combs, they are easily separated into good strong colonies for winter. Extracted honey may be put directly into barrels or cans. In this case it is much more apt to candy. After ripening or evaporating for a few days it is less liable to candy. It is a great trouble thus to preserve it, since all insects will drop into it and get drowned. The best mode of taking care of extracted honey is to put it directly into fruit cans, and seal up when almost at the boiling point. Thus the air is driven out and it seldom candies. It may be heated in large quantities and at once put up secure- ly, so that there is no loss from leakage, or a second handling, or any fear of impurities from insects or dust. It is then ready for market. The cans are useful in every household when the honey is used up, and the consumer does not feel that he is paying for useless bottles." The value of these great improvements in apiculture are so well acknowledged, that it is hardly necessary to add any testimonials. Lead- ing apiarians everywhere agree concerning the advantages of the extrac- tor, and of comb-foundation for the broodnest . Some yet argue against its use in boxes, on the ground of impurities in the wax, which may en- danger the price of box Money. The Bellows Smoker is one of these simple conveniences, concerning which the testimony constantly receiv- ed is: "I could not do without it." "I would not take $50 or $100 for mine, if it could not be replaced." '* It is more than is claimed for it," &c. Every beginner should furnish himself with a veil, a bellows smoker, and — even though not over two hives are kept — an extractor will pay the first year. GOLDEN RULES. First. — Keep all colonies strong. This is the best protection against moths and robbers; the surest way to secure an abundance of surplus honey, and such colonies, with sufficient stores, are wintered most safely. Second. — In handling bees, be gentle. Subdue them, if necessary, with smoke, which causes them to fill themselves with honey. **A bee filled with liquid sweets, will not volunteer an attack." If stung, scrape off the sting at once. Third. — Have the hive carefully protected from the severe and sud- den changes in spring. 94 HOW TO KEMOVB HONEY BOXES AND EXPEL IHE BEES. Fourth. — Hives — Let all hives and parts of hives be interchangeable Fifth. — Swarming — Have queen-cells or young queens ready before dividing. These are most conveniently raised with regular sized frames. Sixth. — Inserting Queens — Let the colony be conscious of its loss, destroy all queen-cells, let the same scent be given, and the bees be as quiet as possible when the operation is performed. Seventh. — Secure and pack honey in attractive packages, easily handled. Eighth. — Judicious feeding, cystematically followed in times of drought, pays well. HOW TO EEMOVE HONEY BOXES AND EXPEL THE BEES. Near sunset remove the cap and raise the end of -the box just enough to blow under a little smoke, when the bees will leave the holes, which may be covered with blocks or an empty box turned bottom up. Set the full boxes right side up on strips upon the stand, so that they shall be three eights of an inch from the board and five or six inches from the entrance of the hive. Gently rap upon the boxes until the bees begin in good earnest to leave for the hive. Being filled with honey there is no danger of their stinging from the rough treatment received. The burning of those that enter will give notice to the others of their position near their home. Should some remain in the boxes they may be left till morning if the weather be pleasant, but must be removed early, least the bees commence carrying the honey into the hive. If preferred the boxes may be placed upon theirjsides in a tight box or bar- rel, and a thin cloth thrown over the top. Seeing the light the bees will creep up on the cloth, and if this be turned over occasionally all except a few young ones will find their way back to the hive. Late in the season, when the nights are cool, if this cap be raised in the eve- ning, the boxes will usually be clear of bees by morning. As soon as the flowers have failed or the bees commence carrying down honey from the unsealed cells, all boxes should be removed, unless, as is sometimes the case, when the latter part of the season has been unfavorable, an insufficient supply has been stored in the body of the hive. In this case if not left, the bees should be fed. (See "Feeding," page 148.) CHAPTER Y. ARTIFICIAL SWARMIXa. That bees may be swarmed artificially, altbougb not known to all even at the present day, is not a late discovery, but haa been practiced for over a century, with more or less success, depending entirely upon the observance of the three following conditions, to wit: the proper time for swarming; the condition of the stock; and whether the method employed was in harmony with or in violation of the laws which govern the economy of the hive. 1st. The time for swarming is not until the yield of honey is abundant and drones are numerous in the apiary, nor should it be performed so late in the season that the bees will not have time to become strong in numbers and rich in stores before the frosts of autumn cut short the pasturage. The 'safest rule, foi the inexperienced, is to wait until natural swarms begin to issue, unless he can have a finished queen-cell to give the queenless part, or, what is much better, a fertile queen, in which case he may swarm somewhat earher or later than the usual time for natural swarms. 2d. The stock to be swarmed should be very populous, for if swarmed when too weak, it is thus robbed of its power to generate heat for breeding, and should unfavorable weather 96 ARl'IFIOIAL SWABMING. ensue both parts will often be deficient in numbers and stores for winter; whereas, had the stock been left until it could have spared a swarm, both would be prepared for winter, beside yielding ample returns in surplus honej as the reward of proper management. There will sometimes be a season when these conditions will not occur in all the stocks in the apiary. Such stocks should not be swarmed that season. The only safeguard against poor seasons is strong stocks, for thev will work whiib others are idle. 3d. The value of any method depends, in a great measure upon the certainty of, and the time required for, supplying the queenless part with a fertile queen. Yet, the method any one should adopt, or whether he should allow his bees to swarm once naturally, will depend much upon his desire for increase of stocks, and the number of colonies or apiaries he may wish to manage. Hence, we shall describe several methods, contrasting their advantages and disadvantages with natural swarming. The practice of multiplying colonies by artificial means, has the fol- lowing advantages over natural swarming: 1st. The trouble and risk of swarms issuing when the bee- keeper is absent, or several issuing about the same time and clustering together or leaving for the woods, is avoided. 2d. As soon as the stocks are in proper condition they may all be swarmed when most convenient and you are certain of the increase; but in natural swarming, only a few days of bad weather will frequently cause the queen cells to be destroyed and swarming to be postponed for weeks and often till the next season. « SWARMING IN MOVABLE-COMB HIVES. C7 HOW TO MAKE SWARMS BY DIVIDING.'' We will give the principal methods for swarming bees in the movable-comb hive, any one of which may be used according to circumstances or the choice of the bee-keeper. The following process is the most convenient when making swarms away from home. Spread a sheet upon the ground, and after blowing a Uttle smoke into the entrance of the hive raise it carefully and place it upon the sheet. If it is taken any distance from the old stand, an empty hive should be left, to hold the returning bees. Also place upon the edge of the sheet your new hive, with the cap and frames removed, entrance closed and movable side in. Proceed to open the old hive ; meanwhile quieting the bees with your smoke. Separate the young bees from the old ones by shaking them from the combs upon the sheet three feet or more m front of the hive. When shaking a comb, hold it. perpendic- ular, to prevent breaking, and dislodge the bees with a down- ward shake. If the weather be warm and the combs new and tender, instead of shaking them brush off the bees with a wing or quiU. Keep a sharp watch for the queen by running the eye over each comb, both before and after shaking it. Do not spend much time, however, in looking for the queen, except to be careful not to put her into the hive which is to contain most of the combs. As fast as the combs are shaken, set them into the new hive. If the queen be found, place the comb upon which she rests and another comb containing honey in one of the hives with one-fourth of the bees, and give the balance of the combs and three-fourths of the bees to the other 98 ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. hive. Fill the vacancies in both hives with the empty frames, and place the one with the queen and two combs upon the old stand, as enough bees will return to it from the one on the new stand to make the colonies about equal. But if the queen is not found while shaking off the bees, place the two combs (one ol them containing eggs and young larvae) in the old hive and put in the empty frames. By this time most of the old bees will probably have entered. When there are but three or four quarts left upon the sheet, place the old hive upon its own stand and let the young bees enter the new hive by making them travel, thinly, a considerable distance over the sheet, that you may find the queen, should she happen to be among them, and return her to the old hive. Contract the entrance of the new hive, which may now be placed in any desired location. Another way of making new swarms where there are several stocks in movable-comb hives, is to select four stocks and take two combs from each. Brush back all the bees into their own hives, that no stock be robbed of its queen. Fill the vacancies in each hive with empty frames, placing them near the centre, where they will be quickly filled. Place the removed combs together in an empty hive. Eemove a strong stock (in any kind of hive) when the leees are flj'ing briskly, and place the hive containing the combs on its stand. If the strong stock were taken a rod or two away, near the middle of the day in good honey gathering weather, enough bees will return to the old bxand to make the swarm. Contract the entrance to both hives for a day or two. This method has some advantages, for as each old stock loses but one ot two combs at a time, a new swarm SWAHMINQ IN MOVABLE-COM'J HIVE8. 99 can be made from every five stocks as often as the loss is regained, and jet all tlie stocks, Loth old and new, be in condi- tion for winter, should swarming be continued past the usual season. Whenever the weather becomes unfavorable, or pas- turage seems to be faihng, swarming should be discontinued till honey is again plenty. Another method, is to take out half the combs with the bees adhering to them, and place them in the new hive ; put in the empty frames, and set the hives a foot or two apart, one on the right and the other on the left of the old stand. They must be watched an hour or two, to keep the bees about equal. If one hive seems to be getting more than its share, move that a little farther from, or the other nearer to, the old stand. A board set up between them and projecting a little in front will help divide the returning bees. If the hives are not the same color, the old one must be partially covered with a cloth, to change its appear- ance, else it will get most of the bees. If the queenless part be not determined by the motion of the bees, it may be known in two or three days by its having started queen-cells. If a fertile queen is not at hand for the queenless part, prevent the construction of much drone comb by giving it all but one or two of the combs. In taking them from the other hive, brush back all the bees, lest the queen be removed. If more stocks be divided in eight or ten days, a quecri-cell for each queenless part may be obtained from this stock. The queenless part of a divided stock should have the date of its division marked upon the hive or otherwise noted, for if a queen-cell was not inserted at the time of dividing, it will have 100 ARTIFICIAL SWARMINa. its queeu-cells finished hj the tenth or eleventh daj, when alj but one snouid be destroyed or used for dividing other stocks. If this is not attended to, a colony will often injure itself by swarming, although it may have but two or three quarts of bees. All colonies raising queens should be carefully examined in about twenty-five days from the time of dividing, or if finished queen-cells were given them, in fifteen days, to see that they have a fertile queen, and if no eggs can be found in the combs the presumption is that some accident has happened the queen. If a nucleus, containing a fertile queen is at hand, introduce her. If neither queen nor queen-ceU can be had, give the colony a comb of brood and eggs taken from a hive that has a fertile queen. This will not only enable them to rear a queen, but the maturing brood will materially strengthen the swarm. "When dividing, care must be taken in all cases to place the combs containing brood or eggs, compactly together, that the bees may be able to cover them and prevent chilling the brood. By inserting a frame or two of empty comb in each new colony, the brood may be enclosed in smaller space and the heat economized. Queenless or removed colonies should have their entrances contracted for a few days to exclude both the cool air and inquisitive robber bees. In all these methods, as in natural swarming, we are hable to have queenless colonies by the loss of young queens, when making their excursions to meet the drones. Beside, a colony will do Httle while rearing a queen, which consumes much time, usually in the height of honey gath- ering. Hence, perfection will not be reached short of intro- ducing a fertile queen at the time of swarming. NUCLEUS SWABMING. lOl THE NUCLEUS SYSTEM OF SWARMING. " The introduction of a mature fertile queen to a colony two weeks sooner than when they swarm naturally, is an advantage sufficient to jjay for extra trouble. The time gained in breeding is equivalent to a swarm.^' — M. Quinby. In swarming bees on this system, we first rear a queen in a small cluster — nucleus — of bees, allowing the nucleus hive to remain in its place until the queen becomes fertile, when we swarm the bees by simply causing the two hives to exchange places. Unlike natural swarming, the old queen remains in the parent stock, and its labors go on scarcely interrupted. The system is based upon the well known law, that bees, after luxuriating upon the flowers, will return to the exact spot of their old habitation. Form a nucleus from an Itahan or other populous stock by blowing a few whiffs of smoke into the entrance, and opening \he hive, select a frame of comb containing capped brood, but especialy plenty of eggs and young larvae. After looking this over carefully, lest the old queen be removed, place it with its adhering bees in the empty hive, and next to it another comb containing honey, which will afford protection to the brood and food for the bees. As many of the old bees will return to the parent stock, give the nucleus hive at least a quart of bees and set it on a new stand two or three rods distant. Contract the en- trance so that but one or two bees can pass at the same time, and set a feed pan on the frames, or a sponge filled with sweetened water will supply their wants until the young bees go to work 102 NUCLEUS SWARMING. in their new location. In place of the combs removed from the parent stock, set in empty frames with a full one between. If the frames are put near the centre, the old stock wiU increase all the faster, as the queen will fill the new comb with eggs as fast as it is built. The removal of the two combs stimulates the bees to great activity by giving them room to work, and detaches just bees enough to prevent their clustering idlj about the en- trance. The nucleus will construct queen-ceUs and rear a qneeu as weU as a whole swarm. Beside, the queen is easily found among so few bees. We now wait until the tenth or eleventh day, from the time the nucleus was formed, when we open it, and, with a sharp thin bladed pocket-knife, cut out aU the queen cells but one, and use them immediately in forming other nuclei, by attaching one of them to a frame of comb and bees taken from an old stock, as before described, and placed in an empty hive. In transferring queen-cells great care must be taken not to press or dent them, or expose them long to the hot sun or cool air for fear of de- stroying the royal occupants. The be- ginner should remove but one at a time, returning the frame from which it ia taken to its place in the hive until the royal cell is adjusted in its new location. When practicable, leave about an inch square of comb attached to the ceU, and upon taking the comb oi biood from the old stock, make an opening among the eggs and REARING QUEENS. 103 larvae where the bees will be sure to cluster upon it and keep it warm, and careftiUy insert it as shown in figure 12, leaving an open space below it. If the first nucleus was formed from the only Italian stock in the yard, and more queen-ceUs are Wu,nted, remove every queen- cell from it, and add another comb of eggs and brood from its pa- rent stock. But when no more queen-ceUs are needed, leave one to hatch, and as by this time the brood wiU all be capped over, the bees will be liable to foUow the young queen on her excur- sion to meet the drones. To prevent this, exchange one of the combs for one containing eggs and young larvae, when forming the other nuclei. Young queens will return unless lost by birds or other casualties, to which all queens are once exposed. Such loss is easily ascertained among so few bees, and we ha;ve only to insert another queen-ceU, adding a comb containing eggs and brood, and repeat the trial. Should the parent stock be very populous, it may be swarmed by taking a queen from a nucleus belonging to a less populous stock, and another queen reared there. WHEN AND HOW TO SWARM THE BEES. Every populous stock, from which a nucleus has been formed, ihould be swarmed, if the weather is favorable, as soon as th© queen in the nucleus has become fertile. This is, usually, in from six to ten days after inserting the queen-ceU, and is readily determined by examining the combs for eggs. We now, imlesa the yield of honey is very abundant, confine the young queen 104: NUCLEUS SWARMING. in a gauze wiie cage. Having filled up tLe nucleus hive with empty frames, exchange the places of the two hives, bringing the entrance of the nucleus hive where the old stock has stood, and where the mass of the old bees will return from the fields, thus throwing out of the old stock swarms of workers into the nucleus hive, while the old bees from the nucleus will enter the old hive and minister to the wants of the numerous brood of the parent stock. The bees must not be swarmed between the hatch ing and fertilization of the queen, and should they be swarmed when the honey harvest has received a check from a storm or drought, the bees thus empty of honey and consequently more quarrelsome, being suddenly thrown into the presence of a strange queen (although of the same scent) are inchned to sting her. To prevent this she is caged for thirty-six hours, when the bees from the old stock will mostly have joined the nucleus colony and she may be safely hberated. But, if she was taken from another nucleus, we sometimes let her remain caged a day longer, or smear her well with warm honey and drop her in among the bees. They immediately commence Hcking up the honey and forget to sting her. If from any cause the stocks are swarmed when the bees are working but httle, and after three or four days the nucleus swarm be found deficient in bees, it may be strengthened by exchang- ing some of its empty frames for fi*ames of capped brood from the parent stock, or should the flowers yield bountiftdly within a week, the location of the two hives may again be exchanged. The bees will not quarrel as they are of the same scent, unless a nucleus has been formed several weeks, or when honey is scarce, REARING QUEEXS. 105 it 18 sometimes necessary to treat both stocks — especially tlie old one — to tobacco smoke. This precaution, however, is only for the inexperienced, since, in the midst of the swarming season, when the flowers are yielding in profusion, httle protection is needed either for the queen or the operator. ADVANTAGES OF THE NUCLEUS SYSTEM. The superiority of this system may be seen by contrasting it with any other method of swarming. Unhke natural swarming, by this system all our new swarms have young queens, and as drone comb is seldom built during the first year of the queen's existence, we get the frames filled almost exclusively with worker comb. By it our stocks and colonies are never without fertile queens. Hence, breeding and honey gathering go on as before, keeping all our swarms strong and safe against moths and other enemies. But in natural swarming (which, if properly managed in movable-comb hives, is preferable to most methods) much time is consumed in idleness by the whole swarm rearing a queen in the best part of the season, besides honey gathering is nearly suspended for ten days after the issue of the first swarm, and no eggs are laid for from two to three weeks, or until the fertiliza- tion of the young queen, and before these mature, so great is the mortahty of bees at this season that the stock is sometimes lost from lack of bees to protect its combs. While, had it been sup- phed with a fertile queen, it could soon have spared another Ewarm^ — so incredibly fast do bees breed during the honey har- vest. If by the introduction of a fertile queen, " the time gained 106 NUCLEUS SWARMING. in breeding is equivalent to a swarm," (and we think no close observer will doubt it,) then it foUows that we could swarm a stock twice on the nucleus system with no more risk than swarm- ing once naturally, or that we are as safe against poor seasons aa those who increase on an average but one-half annually. Yet as "safety and certainty" is our motto, we recommend only doubling the number of populous stocks, at which rate ten stocks would increase to one hundred and sixty in four years if every stock was swarmed annually, which number may be made good, and even a more rapid increase safely secured by using the sur- plus honey stored in frames, as directed under " how to stock an apiary." In short, by the nucleus system of swarming, the vexatious losses attending other methods are avoided, and the process is so easy and gradual that even the day-laborer or busi- ness man, when suppHed with hives, will find leisure time enough to manage quite a number of stocks "with profit and pleasure. Whilst beesmigbtbe managed successfully by doubling each year, more honey can be obtained by keeping the stocks all very strong, and only making one swarm from two hives. By the use of artificial comb-foundation, great advantage is gained. Swarms may be built up much more rapid- ly by giving sheets of this, and not waiting for combs to be built before the queen can lay eggs. Some bee-keepers have been very successful in rapidly increasing stocks, and each year establishing new apiaries by putting the extra hives out on shares to new parties. The owner gener- ally furnishes hives, bees, boxes, and owns all the increase. The other does the work and in the fall the surplus honey is divided equally. CHAPTER Y. ITALIAN BEI.S. Tins varieij of tlie honey bee, called also Ligurian bee, is found in small districts amid the Alps, embracing portions of Switzerland and Northern Italy. They are of a striped golden color, and were described by Aristotle, Virgil, and other ancient writers, as variegated in color, and the most valuable kind then known, but for centuries they were unknown outside of the dis- tricts above named, the surrounding mountains covered with per- petual snow being impassable by their wings. They were accidentally discovered, during the wars of Napo- leon, by Captain Baldenstein, who carried the first colony across the Alps in 1843. In 1853 they were introduced by Dzierzon into Germany, and into the United States in 1860. There has since been several importations. We were slow to believe all the good things said of them by German apiarians, until convinced of their superiority by the universal testimony of prominent American bee-keepers, coupled with our own experience. We present a few extracts. " We beheve that the superiority of the Itahan bee is no longer questionable." — California Culturist " All agreed as to the superiority of the Italian to the com- mon black bee." — From the Report of the American. Apiarian Convention. 108 ITALIAN BEES. At the Wisconsin Bee-keepers' Convention, in. February, 1866, the following resolution was passed unanimously: ^^Resolvedy That the Itahap (or Ligurian) bee, fuUy sustains its European reputation, and this association heartily recommend it for general cultivation, as being more hardy, vigorous, and fertile, and, as a consequence, more profitable." " Of their superiority there can be no question." — Dr, Metcalf. Dr. Kirtland, of Cleveland, Ohio, says: "My colonies are daily watched and admired by many visitors. So far as my ex- perience has gone, I find every statement in regard to their superiority sustained. They will no doubt prove a valuable acquisition to locahties of high altitude, and will be peculiarly adapted to the climate of Washington Territory, Oregon, and the mountainous regions of Cahfornia." Mr. Langstroth says : " If we may judge from the working of my colonies, the Italians will fully sustain their European reputation. They have gathered more than twice as much honey as the swarms of the common bee. This honey has been chiefly gathered within the last few weeks, during which time the swarms of common bees have increased in weight but very little. The season here has been eminently unfavorable for the new swarms — one of the worst I ever knew — and the prospect now is, that I shall have- to feed all of them except the Itahans." " The great German apiarian, Mr. Dzierzon, informs us that bis apiaries, (now consisting of more than six hundred colonies,) having been thoroughly Italianized in 1858, produced him last year (1859) more than double the quantity of honey ever ob THEIB SUPEEIORITT. 109 tamed by liim in any previous year. The season there was very favorable, and in the fall there was an unusual abundance of buckwheat pasturage in his neighborhood." — Ed. American Bee Journal. Mrs. E. S. Tupper, of Brighton, Iowa, a noted "Western writer on bee culture, says : "In the summer of 1863 I had but two Italian stocks to commence with. One of these stored one hundred and ten pounds of honey, besides giving me three arti- ficial swarms ; the other gave me two swarms and stored ninety- six pounds of honey; and all the swarms but one, partly fiUed several boxes each. I had, that same season, fifty-six colonies of common bees, all of which were divided, but not one of which stored a pound of honey, though in the same kind of hives and treated in a similar way with the Italians. That season it will be remembered was very poor. " In the summer of 1864, 1 averaged from nine Italian colonies one hundred and nineteen pounds each. The greatest yield from one hive was as follows : one full swarm taken from it the fif- teenth of May ; honey taken in boxes through the season, one hundred and fifty-six pounds, besides four full frames from which \o rear queens ; the swarm from it stored eighty pounds in a cap, and on the fifteenth of July threw off a very large swarm, which filled its hive, and stored several pounds in boxes. Thus we have two hundred and thirty-six pounds of box honey, be- sides two extra large colonies, from a single hive, not reckoning the frames and partially filled boxes. I do not think a colony of the common bee ever did as much in the best season ; if so» let us have the record." 110 ITALIAN BEES. Having now had an experience of several years with Italian bees, spending mucli of our time in the apiarj, rearing queens, we find them to possess the following points of superiority over the common black bee : Their individual strength being greater, they fly with less fatigue and are more active and successful in defending their stores against both the moth-miUer and robber bees. They gather honey — especially when other sources fail — ^from iron weed, this- tle and other flowers which are seldom visited by the black bees, working quite freely upon the seed crop of red clover, when other late forage is cut short by drought. They also work more steadily during the season, even when there is but Httle honey to be gathered from any source, and it being a weU known fact that breeding keeps pace with honey gathering, the result is, strong stocks, which secure a large product of honey, and are proof against the moth-worm and poor seasons. Hence the import- ance of the above peculiarities cannot easily be over estimated, and they account in part for the following characteristic differ- ences between the two races of bees: 1st. The Italian queens are called "prolific breeders," as the stocks breed earlier in the season and continue later, casting larger swarms and swarming on an average about two weeks earher than the black bee, thereby gaining that much time in the best of the gathering season, and usually swarming in sea sons when common bees do not. 2d. They gather much larger stores of honey than the black bees, as proven by the united testimony of eminent apiarians both in Europe and America. POINTS OP SUPEKIORITT. Ill 3d. In opening a Mv^, the Italians, when pure^ are much more peaceable than the black bees, and the queen is more readily found, not SO much on account of contrast in color as from the fact that with the workers she usually remains undisturbed upon the combs. 4th. Being more constant workers, the Italians are less inclined to rob than the native bees. Being hardier, they are longer lived, winter more safely, and are moie inclined to supercede their queens when pasttheir prime. Hence, colonies are not so liable to become queenless, and queenless stocks do not so rapidly become depopulated. 5th. Their beauty of color and graceful form render them an object of interest to every person of taste. Hence, they attract many visitors, who admire the golden hues, so beautifully shown by the sun's rays, as they pass swiftly to and from the hive. IMPOBTANCE OP NEW BLOOD IN THE APIABT. Whilst we fully endorse'' the great benefits resulting from the intro- duction of Italian bees, we doubt after years' of experience and obser- vation whether the benefits result so much from the superiority of the Italian bee itself, as from the admixture of foreign blood, thereby cor- recting, to a great extent the mischief that has resulted from too long in and in breeding. And this benefit has been due directly to the sup- posed, and claimed, superiority of the Italian bee, to obtain, which extra efforts were put forth. Many of our closest observing apiarists are beginning to doubt whether Italians are really so much preferable to hybrids, as is sometimes claimed. We are inclined to believe that there is great truth in the statements of Bev. J. W. Shearer, in our "Bee-Keepebs Magazine," of January last, from which we make some quotations: " Every farmer is well aware of the injury resulting from too close 112 ■ ITALIAN BEES. breeding for successive generations among his horses, cattle or fowls; but no attention, or but little, was paid to this by bee-keepers, until very recently. In the primitive condition of our forests, and in earlier times, the very nature and instincts of the honey bee, prevented in- jury from this source. The woods had not yet been cut down, nor be- come familiar to the tread of man. Swarms of bees from different settlements, and of distinct blood, became near neighbors, as they em- igrated to the woods and found homes in the Hollow trees. Thus strengthened physically by constant foreign mixture, and stimulated by the great blossoms in unfelled forest trees, the westward march of the honey bee, in his colonization of the forests, was far more rapid than that of the squatter or the emigrant. Although man, the Indian, and the bear, attracted by the accumulated stores, proved alike — the enemy of the hive, the honey bee continued to thrive and increase, until under changed conditions, a deterioration naturally succeeded from destruc- tion of natural pasturage, and injury from in-and-in breeding. "As civilization advanced, and men owned small sections of wood- land every part of it became well-known to the owner or to the ubiquit- ous hunter. In such communities every ♦ bee-tree ' was soon marked and destroyed. Thus all prospects of [new blood, naturally from emigrat- ing swarms, was destroyed, as colonizing swarms in the woods decreased, either from lack of suitable trees in well settled communities, or from speedy destruction by those who sought their stores. " Superstitious notions on the part of old fashioned bee-keepers tend- ed greatly to augument the difficulty. If a man wished to make a start in bees he must either steal a hive from the nearest neighbor, or get it from the woods nearby, for it was generally thought the bees be moved but a small distance. The result was that the bees in any one vicinity continued to increase without new blood. In many places the distanct POINTS OF SUPEEIOBITY. 113 to the nearest oee-keeper was too great for mixture in mating, or else the neighbors around stole a hive from the man who first started in bees. Thus breeding from the same stock from generation to generation, it was no wonder that a general complaint wan' heard: 'Father's, or grand father's bees used to do well here; but some how, in late years, they have run out' Every observing bee-keeper has met with similar experience in his own observations amongst ' old box hive ' bee-keepers. The im- portance of this subject in bee-keeping, seems fortunately to have been stumbled on while working for other ends. "Simultaneous with the introduction of movable combs, and such in- crease of practical knowledge as tended to advance bee-culture, the claim of the great superiority of the Italian bee, led to its being im- ported, bred, and largely desseminated. Without now entering upon the subject of the comparative merits of the Italian ayd native bee, it is enough for the present purpose, to state that we believe a great deal of the acknowledged good Yrom the introduction of Italian bees into apiaries, all over the country, comes from the introduction of new blood. We are satisfied that the Italian bees are, in afeveral respects, superior to our native bees, but not according to the apparent improvement when our Italian queen is introduced into, and bred from, in our apiary. Many men whose bees had deteriorated from in-and-in breed- ing, have found such superiority when an Italian was^ introduced as to run to the opposite extreme, of overrating these new bees. The contro- versy among the different apiarians at present, concerning the compara- tive merits of the two varieties hinges, as we believe, just on this point. Those who claim superiority or equality for the common bee, are par- ties who have, to some extent, reared Italians, or else some of their neighbors have had them, and thus the stock of common bees they have had on hand, have been improved by the new blood, which they do not feel is due to the Italians, because their bees are black bees, or merely hybrids, from black queens, and Italian drones. It is well known that some prominent breeders have claimed that the hybrids are, in many respects, superior to Italians. We believe that the ordinary apiarian will find it more profitable to get an Italian queen, and from 114: ITALIAN BEES. her raise only queens; permitting them to mate with black drones, than to get both the drone and the egg for the queen from the same queen. QtTEEH BBABINQ. Pare Italian queen rearing is important to apiculture in our country, more for the benefit of new blood, than" because of the superiority in the bees themselves. But those who rear them, in order to get the best bees, must not continue to breed from the same queen, and her direct progeny, because of bright color; but must constantly introduce new pure Italian blood, into their breeding departments, both from abroad and from other apiaries in our own country^ But, for the interest in the Italian bee, perhaps not for a long time to come, would bee-keepers have learned to cage, ship, import, and introduce queens as they have, thus opening up a way for improvement in the bees themselves, as well as in modes of management for profit. The conclusion which we have reached on this subject is this: Encourage the Italian queen rearers, so that they can, and will furnish good, pure stock, and at the same time introduce new blood — the best blood you can get for hard work in the apiary. It may be that still greater results may be gotten. from intro- ducing, and crossing the Dalmatian, Cyprian, and Egyptian bees, with those we now have. Seek improvement in bees, just as in stock, by mixing and crossing and continuous breeding in pure strains for cross- ing with others. CHANQINa A STOCK OF COMMON BEES TO ITALIANS. To Italianize a colony of black bees, it is only necessary to remove the native queen and substitute in her place a fertile Italian queen. The Italian queen will commence laying almost immediately, her progeny beginning to hatch in about three weeks, and in from three to six months the whole stock will be pure Italian. The native queen is most easily found by opening the hive near the middle of a clear day, when many bees are absent in the fields. Handle the combs carefully, look- ing over one at a time, using the smoke sparingly, lest the queen be driven from the combs. It may sometimes be necessary to shake ITALIAN BEES. 115 the bees upon a sheet, that the queen may be seen and aestrojed as she crawls toward the hive. If the Itahan queen was ob- tained from a distance, the box in which she was shipped should be opened before a window, in a closed room, that the queen be not lost should she fly from the box. When introducing a choice queen, we should run no risk of having her stung by the bees ; she must therefore be confined in a small wire-cloth cage, which should be immediately inserted near the centre of one of the brood combs, where the bees will cluster upon it, feeding the queen and keeping her warm. A drop of honey placed within her reach can do no harm. At the end of thirty-six hours, she should be liberated, smeared with honey, and allowed to crawl down among the bees. Another method is to remove the native queen, and if near the swarming season, look for queen cells and destroy them if any are found. The stock is now allowed to stand queenless for about ten days. Open the hive on the tenth day, at the farthest, and cut off all the queen cells, for if longer neglected a queen might hatch which would have to be hunted up and destroyed. The bees being now without eggs or young larvae, will give up all hopes of rearing a queen, and the Itahan may be safely introduced as before directed. In aU cases the queen should be well smeared with honey before she is allowed to go among the bees, as while cleaning off the honey they have nc disposition to sting, and having time to discover her rank^ re ceive her kindly. In the proper seasons a populous stock may be divided and an Italian queen caged and given to the queenless part. 116 ITALIANIZING A WHO:.E APIARY. or a swarm may be driven from a strong stock in the box hive, as directed on page 60, and after returning the native queen to the parent stock, the ItaHan queen may be introduced to the swarm in the new hive. Again, a queen may be given to a natural swarm after hunting out the black queen. If another Itahan queen cannot be had, the black queen should be returned to the parent stock. ITALIANIZING A WHOLE APIARY. "-A man near Gotha, Germany^ purchased two stands of Ital- lan bees Jive years ago, and in the spring of 1866 had increased his number to twenty-Jive stands, not one queen of which had mated with the black drones, though hundreds of common colonies were within two miles of him. His secret is to keep his colonies always very strong, not aiming at a rapid increase, and making his swarms very early. The instinct of the Italians is to rear drones earlier than the other bee, and they rear brood much faster in the spring, so that it is safe to ^ do^ the swarming before the black drones appear, and thus secure the impregnation of your young queens by Italian drones." — Prairie Farmer. If the colonies are in box hives, transfer one or more strong stocks and obtain queens for them any time during the season from May to November. In order to commence with pure stock, the queens should be obtained from some rehable person, as almost every subterfuge is resorted to by unprincipled dealers to make the pubhc beheve that they, above all others, have the location for breeding pure Italians. Early the next spring, place drone comb near the centre of your Italian stocks, and feed them regularly to induce early breeding, and bring the drones forward several weeks before black drones appear. If youi ITALIAN BEES. 117 black bees are in common bives transfer them, putting the drone comb in the outside frames. Should you desire to Itahanize stocks for neighbors, they may be brought to your yard and Italianized with your own. As soon as the Italian drones begin to hatch, form one or more strong nuclei from your best ItaHan stock to obtain a large number of queen-cells, ks directed on pages 65, 66 and 67. On the eighth day after forming the nuclei, examine to ascer- tain the number of queen-cells, and remove the black queens from about two-thirds as many stocks. Leave them thus over night to realize their loss, and then carefully insert a queen-cell among the brood in each stock. Mark the frames containing them and examine the next day, for if any are destroyed others must be inserted in their places. "What queen-cells remain may be used for other stocks, except to leave one in each nuclei to hatch and become fertile to supply neighbors or to be used in tfwarming. This method is short, but requires close attention to prevent some stocks from rearing black queens or becoming queenless. The stocks will also be somewhat weakened by being deprived of a laying queen even for a short time at this season of the year. The process will seldom be so weU managed but that a few black drones will be reared, hence if queens are not reared early the first season, some of them will be likely to mate with black drones, which will be known by some of their worker progeny having but two yellow bands and others none at all, while a part will have the three bands of the pure Italian. A. few poorly marked in any stock should not condemn it, it there are any hybrid stocks in the yard, as bees from different 118 ITALIANIZING A WHOLE APfARY. coloiiies will mix to some extent ; but the young bees should be examined when just hatching from the combs, to see if all have the three yellow bands. If any queens are found to have mated with black drones, it is safest to remove them as soon as other queens can be reared to take their places, for although they will produce pure Italian drones, yet should such a stock swarm or vose its queen, a queen would be reared (unless prevented) from her hybridized eggs whose drone progeny would be impure. Another method preferred by some, is to Italianize all your own and your neighbors' stocks as far as practicable the first year. To do this, secure the construction ol as many queen- cells as possible from the brood in the ItaHan stock, and insert one in each nucleus. Let the queens hatch and become fertile, paying no attention to what kind of drones they meet. When fertile introduce them to the parent stocks, and rear others the same way before swarming. These queens, having been fertil- ized by black drones, their worker progeny will be hybrids, but their drones will be pure. The next season, all the drones in the apiary being pure Italians, the work is half accomphshed. Then rear another set of queens, one for each hive, from the original pure one, and there being none other but pure drones in the neighborhood, the young queens will seldom find black ones, especially if the apiary be large. ITALIAN QUEEN REARING. The superiority of Italian bees is becoming so generally known that there is a great and constantly increasing demand for queens ; hence the necessity for plain practical directions that ITALIAN BEES. 119 shall insure success in rearing tliem even by the inexperienced bee-keeper. "We are aware that general rules have been given., and many nice things written, yet the practical part, upon which success depends, is understood by but few. We have already given directions for rearing queens to Italianize an apiary, but when desirous of engaging in their extensive proj a* gation, the following course should be pursued. Having Ital- ianized your own apiary, and all your neighbors' stocks within about three miles, you are fully prepared to commence the business of queen rearing. SMALL BOXES FOR THE NUCLEI. The small hives or nuclei boxes should be made about six inches square inside, and the same in depth below the rabbets, which should be three-fourths of an inch deep. The frames, four in number, are suspended upon these rabbets, their top bars being narrow, the same as the side and bottom bars. The mov able cover should be an inch larger than the top of the box, and clamped to prevent warping. Listing, or strips of woolen cloth, should be tacked all around on the under side of the cover, near the edge, to fit upon the top of the box and confine the heat generated by the bees. Before naihng the box together, a rabbet, five-eighths deep and two inches wide, should be cut across the inside of the back, and a piece tacked on the lower edge to hold in the tin feed trough. One end of this rabbet must be fiUed up and the other end covered with a flap screwed to the outside of the hive. This flap is to be turned to admit of drawing out and filhn^ Note.— We now use only large hives for queen rearing, having discarded the small boxes. 120 ITALIAN QUEEN REARING. the pan when necessary to feed, and when the bees arc to be confined to the hive, turn the other end of the flap, which should have a hole in it covered with wire-cloth, to give ventilation. The boxes should be painted a variety of bright colors — some white, others red, blue, &c. — and scattered over the yard so that a young queen may easily distinguish her hive from any other near it. A cheap stand is made by naihng strips of board for posts to each corner of a bottom-board eighteen or twenty inches square. The posts should project eight inches below the bottom board, for legs, and two of them sixteen and two eighteen inches above it, laying on a board for shade. We make the small frames the proper size to fit four of them into one of the large frames, and thus obtain brood from any hive by filling the small frames with thin worker-comb, or sticking in small pieces and allowing the bees to build the combs. We prefer, however, to have one or more breeding hives made the same as the small hives, but long enough to hold sixteen of the small frames, and having several entrances along the front side. HOW TO COMMENCE QUEEN REARING. • As soon as drones can be reared in the spring, break up the stock from which you wish to breed, and transfer the combs into the small frames, placing them on the old stand in one of the long breeding hives. Shake the bees upon a sheet near the entrance, and as fast as tney enter and collect on the combs they may be hfted out and placed in the nuclei boxes, giving a frame of brood and one of honey to each, and filhng the other two frames with empty comb. ITALIAN BEES. 121 Each nucleus should have about one quart of bees, which must be closed in, laying a rough board on the top and turning the flap to give ventilation. To prevent them from returning to their old stand, they must remain closed in for about thirtj-sLs houra, when the entrance should be opened at sunset, the venti lator turned, and the regular cover put on to retain the heat. If bees for the nuclei are taken from a natural swarm, or brought from the distance of a mile, they need only be confined until sunset. About three quarts of bees must be left with the old queen in the breeding hive, and it may be necessary to place upon it the cap of the old hive that the bees may recognize their old location and not enter other hives. If queen-cells are at hand, one should be inserted when forming each nucleus ; but if none can be had, leave all the nuclei until the tenth day, when more nuclei may be formed and a queen-cell for each taken from those first formed, leaving but one in each nucleus. Examine the nuclei often after queen-cells are inserted, as some cells may be destroyed or prove worthless and others be needed in their places. Afl soon as any nucleus hatches its queen, one of its empty combs should be exchanged for a frame of brood in the maggot state fi-om the breeding hive. This will stimulate the queen to make her excursion to meet the drones and prevent the bees from following her^ in which case, unless discovered, they would be lost. The brood, if supplied often, will also keep up the strength of the nuclei. It will be found convenient to have a piece of slate or board attached to each nucleus upon which to record its condition. When a queen becomes fertile, it will b« known by eggs being found in the brood combs. 12:! ITALIAN QUEEN REAEINa. SHIPPI250 QUEENS. The simplest way to send queens is by mail, in a small wooden queen- cage, containing sugar candy poured when hot in one end for food. It is best to enclose twenty or twenty-five workers with her. Such queen cages are made by boring one and one-half inch auger holes nearly through a plank one and one-fourth inches thick and cutting into blocks two inches square. A small auger hole for an entrance on one edge, stopped with cork, and a wire cloth tacked orer the hol« completes it. We hare sent queens by mail successfully to the Bandwich Islands. Sometimes it may be preferred to send queena with comb and brood in nucleus boxes by express. If so, one small frame of bees and honey is sufB.cient. Fasten it securely, so as to prerent possible injury, and give good ventilation, (with opening, covered with wire cloth). Except where queen rearing is followed as a business, we recommend using only full sized frames for nucleus hives. They are then exchang- able at any time, and may be used for full colonies in winter. When small frames are used the outsid* of each thould be a certain proportion of the inside of the full frame, so as to be used within it when desired for placing m the full hive. Whenever there is a scarcity of honey in the flowers, it will be necessary to feed some of the nuclei, especially those having unfertile queens or young brood, and those constructing queen-cells. Also the breeding hives, as it is sometimes necessary to keep the bees continual- ly building comb in order to induce the queen to rear much brood. A regular supply of queen-cells may be had every five days by having two queenless stocks, and inserting in them alternately every fifth day, comb containing eggs and larvas taken from any ITALIAN BEES. 123 stock from which you may wish to breed. The queen-cells must be removed by the tenth day from the time the brood was inserted, lest a queen should hatch and destroy all the other cells in the hive. If the comb containing eggs and larvsa for queen, cells be new, more cells will be built. Before inserting it in the queenless stock it should be cut in strips an inch wide by three inches long. To insert one of these strips, make an opening in the comb three inches long by one inch deep, and directly under this cut out a piece two-and-a-half inches long by one inch deep, which will give room for lengthening down the cells, and also leave a shoulder to support each end of the strip. As fast as the cells are used other strips may be inserted in the same open ings. A queen is seldom injured while caged if the wire-cloth be neither coarser nor finer than fifteen or twenty meshes to the inch. The cage is sometimes made by winding a piece of wire- cloth around the thumb and stopping the ends with corks, but we prefer them made about three-eighths of an inch deep, nail- ing the edges of the wire-cloth to a wooden bottom. When introducing a queen, the cage is sometimes suspended in the hive by a wire between two combs, but the safety of the queen is bet- ter secured by inserting the cage in a comb near the brood, with room above for the bees to hover upon it. By making and keeping stocks queenless, and feeding them when necessary, drones are retained for fertihzing queens late in the fall. By inducing the bees in such stocks to cluster outside, either by contracting the space inside, or leaning a piece of comb filled with capped brood against the entrance, drones will collect to such hives by thousands. CHAPTER VI. THE APIARY. In selecting a site for an apiarj, we prefer to liave the ground deocend slightly to the east or south. The hives should be pro- tected in winter and spring from the prevailing winds, either by buildings, trees, fences or other breakwind. Although we prefer, when convenient, to have our hives front the east or south, it ia of Httle consequence as far as the prosperity of the bees is concerned. The hives should be sheltered from the rays of the noonday sun, except in April and May, when much warmth is needed to promote breeding. Care should be taken not to place hives against old buildings or fences, which form a congenial harbor for bugs, spiders, ants and other insects. Each stock should have a separate stand, and there is no danger of getting the hives too far apart. It is most convenient to have the hives near the ground. From five to ten mches is High enough for stands if means are taken to keep down the grass and weeds. A cheap and good stand is made by taking two pieces of four inch scantling fifteen inches long, and naihng upon them a board twenty inches long by fifteen wide. If a higher stand be preferred, take, instead of the scantling, two pieces of joist two inches by six, or four pieces if board may be nailed THE APIART. 125 together wiin a fifth one across the top, forming an inverted box. These stands oeing movable, the stocks are less liable to be crowded, and when most convenient may be placed in an orchard, as there should be low topped trees and shrubs near the hives, both for shade and for swarms to cluster upon. The hives should also be in full view from the most frequented part of the house, that swarms may be heard and seen as they rise, with the leasft possible trouble. LARGE APIARIES. In choosing a location for a large apiary, the pasturage afforded by the neighborhood should receive attention — such as white clover, orcharding, forest trees, &c. If this be satisfac tory it will pay well to go to some expense in fitting up a bee yard. One hundred stocks conveniently arranged, will need little more attention than ten managed in the ordinary way. If the situation be a windy one, a yard should be enclosed for the purpose. Let the fence, especially on the north and west sides, be about seven feet high, and tight if practicable. This will not only be a great protection in winter, but will break off the cold raw winds of spring, and thus save the hves of thousands of industrious workers that would otherwise be blown to the ground and perish at the very threshhold of their homes. Stands should next be attended to. These should be a few feet away from ine fence to give room for passing behind the hives. An excellent arrangement for stands is to set two rows of short posts, of some durable kind of wood, letting them project but 6 ur or five inches above the ground. Upon these, lay scantliug IQ*^ BEE-UOUSES. or ^mall timber, forming two parallel lines about iourteen inches apart. Cut bottom-boards twenty inclies long by fifteen wide, and lay them across and on the top of the scantling, observ- ing the proper spaces between the hives. Next, procure saw- dust or spent tan, and fill up under the scanthng and around the posts. This will effectually keep down the grass and weeds, keep the hiv6s clean, and prevent the frost from heaving up the posts. A shed should also be erected over the hives, both for shade and shelter from storms. In whatever style this is put up, it should be but five or six feet high, and open all around, so as in no way to interfere with working around the hives. The roof need be but four or five feet wide, and should slope toward the front of the hives. If there be no water convenient, a supply should be fiirnished the bees during warm, dry weather. It should be pumped or poured into a shallow trough containing small stones or shavings, for the bees to alight on, and changed often. BEE-HOUSES. Of bee-houses we deem it hardly necessary to speak. They are regarded as unprofitable by our best apiarians. Some of the objections are, cost of construction, danger of crowding hives too 'close, and consequent loss of young queens when returning from their nuptial excursions, and lack of a firee circulation of air in summer. Beside, they afford numerous crevices and lurking places for moths, spiders, roaches, and other "unclean birds." THE APIARY. 127 HOW TO PROCURE BEES TO STOCK AN APIARY. First, hy Purchasing Bees. Old stocks in box hives may be purchased and transferred mto movable-comb hives. "We prefer those not over three or four years old, that have cast swarms (and with them their old queens) the year before, unless the black queens are soon to be destroyed, and the stocks Italianized. Smoke and examine them. If in the spring, they will, of course, be less populous than in the faU, yet bees should be clus- tered between most of the combs. The combs should be free from mold, and are easier transferred if in broad sheets. The less drone comb the better, and the more honey there is, the more you will have left for the table after transferring. "We have transferred stocks from large box hives, giving them an abundance of honey, beside leaving out enough to amount in value to the purchase price of the stock. But if stocks that are not to be transferred, have, in the spring, from twelve to twenty pounds of honey, they will usually swarm earlier and be more prosperous than heavier ones, as large quantities of honey, at this season, only take up room that should be occupied with young brood. Probably the best stocks to purchase, are second swarms of the year before, provided the hives are full or nearly full of comb. Such stocks have young queens, and the comb cells are the small size proper for rearing workers, as drone comb is seldom built during the first year of the queen's existence. But if your hives are left to be filled with new swarms, take ^rst swarms by all means, being careful to get, if possible, those 128 HOW TO PROCURE BEES. from hives that have swarmed the year before, as sucii will have vigorous queens but one year old. We could not advise the purchase of second swarms at the time of their issue, unless early and of fair size, for except in good seasons, many fail to secure sufficient stores for winter. In purchasing bees care must be taken in removing them home. It should be only early in the morning or late in the evening if warm, else many active workers will be lost. A new swarm having tender comb filled with honey should not be moved, for such comb will be apt to break down. By Taking Bees on Shares. Bees are sometimes taken on shares for a term of years, the person taking them finding hives and getting half the increase and honey, or more, when transferred into movable-comb hives and Italianized. By Capturing Fugitive Swarms. 'We once bought twenty stocks, at five dollars each, of a man who got his start by finding a swarm hanging to a bush. Fugi- tive swarms may often be brought down by throwing dirt among the advance guards, or by getting in the proper position and reflecting the rays of the sun upon them from a looking-glass. _ By a Safe Increase of Stocks. After a few stocks have been obtained, by any of the forego- ing methods, by far the cheapest way to stock an apiary, is to increase the number of stocks by nucleus swarming, and obtain- ing bees gratis of neighbors, by taking up their condemned THE APIARY. 129 stocks in the fall. Such swarms are taken home and supplied with frames of honey. By using Surplus Honey Stored in Frames. Our best apiarians all agree upon one thing, which is, that bees will store more honey in the body of the hive than they will in top boxes. For this reason, and the advantages in sup- plying needy stocks for winter, we prefer to have a part of the surplus stored in frames. Whenever honey is taken from the hive, it should be set into boxes or hives, and taken to a dark ropm and kept until fall, when some may be needed in preparing stocks for winter. Some should also be kept on hand for emer- gencies, and the rest may be sold or used in making new colonies with bees obtained By Taking up Light Stocks for Neighhors. ' There are enough in almost any community who are so far behind the age as to hive their late swarms in box hives without uniting them. These and other light stocks they brimstone in the fall, unless they can get the " bee man " to take them up for the bees. Every bee-keeper whose apiary is not fiiUy stocked, and all who wish to make the most money out of their surplus honey, should prepare to take as many such swarms as they can supply with frames of honey to winter upon. The process 0/ taldng up a swarm is nearly the same as for transferring. Have a small box with a hole in each side covered with wire-cloth for ventilation. As each comb is taken out brush the bees to the entrance of the box, and when all are in close it up. As it does 130 HUNTING WILD BEES. not paj to winter small swarms, we usually put two or mere to- gether, and if no queens were removed all but one will be killed. The empty combs are valuable to use in honey boxes and frames in the body of the hive, and may be purchased at the market price of beeswax. Fasten them into frames with melted rosm, and use them to fill out the hives after giving each swarm four or five combs of honey. If this be not done the space should be contracted by inserting a partition board or a frame with a cloth tacked upon it. Each swarm should also have some bee- bread, which may be got by exchanging with old stocks. HUNTING WILD BEES. "We have known many persons to get a start by lining wild bees to their trees, which, if cut in spring or summer, the bees will do well. Transfer them with their combs into movable frames, the same as from a common hive. We have cut trees where the bees entered seventy or eighty feet from the ground, with no small timber to break their momentum in falling, and yet saved the swarms. After a tree has been cut and the swarm hived, bees from neighboring swarms will soon appear, to take charge of the waste honey, and if more wild swarms are in the vicinity, which is usually the case, they are easily followed home. By taking lines from the different trees as they are cut, several may often be found within the circuit of a half mile. Bees are found with the least trouble in February or March, when they fly out on the first warm days, and some becoming chilled fall upon the snow. Lines taken from buckwheat and other flowers should be carefully marked, and if not traced up THE APIARY. 131 at tlie time, may be found towards spring "by the dead bees on the snow. When a tree is found, cut upon the bark, (in the least conspicuous place,) your initials, with date of finding, and let it stand until drones appear in May, when, if the queen ^should be killed in falling the tree, there will be eggs in the combs from which to rear another, and drones for her fertihza- tion. When hJb bees are at work upon the flowers a Kne may be started by taking a plate or a piece of board, upon which is a small piece of comb filled with diluted honey. You will also need a glass tumbler and a piece of brown paper or dark colored cloth. Having found a bee upon a Cower, place over it the tumbler and leave it inverted upon the cloth till the bee rises to the top. "Wait till it quits buzzing, (that it may not get be- smeared with the honey,) then carefully raise the tumbler and place it over the honey on the plate, wrapping the cloth around the upper part of the tumbler to darken it. The bee will de- scend toward the light, when, coming in contact with the honey it will commence loading* up. Gentl}' remove the tumbler while the bee is at work, and stepping back a few feet, place your eye near the ground. With the clear sky for a background it is easy to keep sight of the bee as it rises, describing several cir cles at first, then striking a "bee-line," for home. It soon re turns with many others. When a strong hne has got to work, cover the bees with the tumbler, and moving them along the linf towards the tree again hberate them. Care must be taken nol to go beyond the tree, else the bees may not return. If the tree is now supposed to be near, mark the line of bees by / ^tting an assistant stf-ik, in range, a few stakes. .Again cove' 'he beea 132 HUNTING WILD BEES. upon the plate and carry them a few rods away from the line o order to get a cross line. Mark this also with stakes, then run out both lines by sticking more stakes, and the tree will be found where the lines meet. To find the place where the bees enter the tree, w^alk slowly backward and forward in its shadow so as to bring every point of its body and large branches in range between the eye and the sun. Look at the sides of the tree and outwardly, just below the sun, where the bees are easily seen and appear quite large from the reflection of the sun's rays upon their wings. A spy-glass is a great aid when the bees enter high up in the tree. In the fall or early spring, when the trees are bare of leaves, it is easiest following lines and finding the place of entrance in the tree. With a little honey or dissolved sugar for a Z>atY— which, if not poured into comb, must contain some floating substance to keep the bees from drowning — ^lines are readily started from "sugar camps," or moist places, outlets of springs, &c., where the bees come for water. In the gather- j]ig season it is sometimes difficult to get bees to work upon the bait unless new honey be used, taken directly from the hive. The honey, if not very thin, must be diluted with water, else the bees may not leave directly for home. To attract the bee.s, choose the middle of a warm sianny day, and going into the edge of a field or other open place as near the supposed locahty of the wild swarm as possible, burn a piece of dry comb or bees- wax upon which a httle oil of anise has been dropped. In half an hour or so the bees will come following along the hne of smoke, where the bait should be placed, scented also with anise oil ^-0 aid the bees in finding it. The bees from the richest tree THE APIARY. 133 are not the most hungry, but fly cautiously and angrily about before alighting. If the bees are got properly to work, one or more swarms may often be found, which, if transferred into hives will be a valuable acquisition, but are too often thought lessly destroyed for their stores alone. HOW TO TRAP WILD BEES OR ROBBERS. "We give this method more especially for pioneers m a new country, for although a part of a swarm or swarms of fugitive or wild bees may be easily trapped without finding the tree, by getting them to work upon a bait, yet if other bees are at work within reach there is no way to prevent catching them also, even though they lelong to your own or your neighbors^ apiary. Af^er getting into the supposed vicinity of wild bees, and a mile or more from any apiary, get the bees at work upon a bait by either of the methods given. Remove the cap and frames from the American Hive and place in it the bait containing plenty of honey, with the bees upon it. Close the entrance, leaving open the two fly-holes above it. Set another hive upon the top of this one, having first bored a hole in its bottom for the bees to pass up through. This hole may be covered with a shde to be worked through a hole in the side of the hive. The hive should also have wire-cloth tacked over its top and the cap left ofi*, as in moving bees. After a strong line of bees have got at work, going and returning, close one of the fly-holes of the lower hive and. insert in the other a tin tube about six inches long. The outer end of the tube should not project beyond the front board, 134 TRAPPING WILD BEES. and should fit the hole to exclude the light. The inner end reaching to the centre of the hive should have a valve of hght wood or paper hung to its upper side to cover the end. Open the door to the observation glas?, and when enough bees have irowded into the hive to co-^er the glass, close the door and allow them to pass into th** upper hive, which should be pre- pared to receive a swarra ^rith frames in place, honey for tood, and comb with eggs, ^r^m which to rear a queen, unless a tertile queen can be giver it, caged, as in nucleus swarming. The piece of comb wi^h eggs may be brought in a small box, with bees to keep them warm until needed. As often as the bees be- come thick upon the observation glass, close the door and draw the shde from the hole above, when the bees seeing the light will ascend into the upper hive. Should the bees cease coming before a good swarm is taken, open the other fly-hole near the tube and let some out till a strong line is again formed, being careful to have the slide cover the hole in the bottom of the upper hive whenever light is admitted mto the lower one. A moderate sized swarm may often be taken without using the upper hive. Afler removing the hive to the apiary, let it stand closed till halt an hour before sunset on the third day, when the queen must be uncaged and the bees allowed to fly. If no queen were given them, the hive should be opened in about three weeks, and the drone comb removed from the centre, if there be time to collect stores for winter, otherwise it should be left till spring. THE APIARY. 135 MOVING BEES. Wlien moving stocks short distances, or only tc difforcnt stands in the the same apiarj, it should be done during a cold spell in wmter or early spring, before the bees have fully takep their location. If they are to be moved a mile or more, it may be done, witk prop'er precautions, at any time of the year. The stocks to be moved should be prepared early m the morning or when the bees are not flying. To prepare a stock in a common hive, blow in a httle smoke and carefally hfting the hive invert it upon the ground. Have ready tour small strips ot soft wood and a square piece ot wire-cloth, or coarse cotton or hnen, large enough to cover the mouth oi the hive. Spread the cloth over the mouth ot the hive, lay on the strips, and tack through the strips into the edges ot the hive. These strips will save tacks and prevent the bees crowding out under the cloth. A sleigh, buggy, or spring wagon, is the best lor moving bees, yet, with careful driving, they may be moved on a wagon without springs. Place the hives in the wagon upon a bed of straw, keeping them mouth up to secure ventilation, as bees need much air whenever disturbed. Beside, m this position the combs rest upon their attached portions and are less liable to break by jolting. If the weather be very warm use the wire-cloth to confine the beea, and keep the hives shaded from the sun. In most movable- comb hives, strips must be tacked across the frames to keep them from swinging together. To prepare a stock in the Amer ican Hive, simply remove the cap and tack the cloth or wiie- 136 TRANSFERRING. cloth over the top. Drive upon a walk. New swarms may be brought home in a box in the cool of the evening after their issue, but if hives are left for them, and they are allowed to start new combs, great care must be used, if moved before the combs are finished. TRANSFERRING BEES AND COMBS FROM THE BOX HIVE. The best time to transfer bees into the movable-comb hive, is from the appearance of the fruit-tree flowers until swarming. During this season, when the bees are gathering honey, the beginner may safely undertake the operation, as the bees will promptly repair the combs and often be more prosperous than before. They may be transferred earlier, if carefully done, or indeed at any time, if the brood is not chilled by exposure to the cool air. Yet nothing is gained by disturbing bees in cold weather, neither is it safe to transfer for three weeks after a stock has swarmed, in which time its queen will generally have oecome fertile. But when a second or third swarm can be hived, and set close to the old stock, it is then quite free from bees, and may be transferred with but little trouble, and the swarm jarred from its hive and united with the transferred stock, making a 13. Tmnuferring tools. The hook is to loosen the combs from the top of the hive or ffum, whe i the ftliis 10 not pried off. The other.is made of a piece of hoop-iron, (2 inches wide by 20 inches long) by e^Tiuding tb« and bev«lllDg like a chisel, and is used to loosen the combs from the sides of tne hive. good job. Or when an Itahan queen is to be introduced, six or seven days after a stock has cast a first swarm, the old stock may THE APIARY. 137 be transferred and all the queen-cells destroyed, when the stock is ready for the Italian queen. The tools needed, beside those shown in the cut, (fig. 13,) are a hammer and stout chisel for prying off one side of the hive, and a long-bladed knife for cut- ting out the combs. OPERATION. Prepare the frames in the new hive, by prying off most of the comb-guides, and letting down the cross-bars to suit the size oi the combs. After smoking the stock to be transferred, invert it in the shade, and, keeping the bees down with your "smudge,'' cut out a small piece of comb, containing brood, to place in an empty box or hive upon the old stand. Also, if other stocks are close, partially cover them to keep out returning bees. Our common practice (if in warm weather) is to drum the bees from the stock to be transferred, proceeding the same as in driving out a swarm, (page 57,) until the bees have ascended into the drum box, when it is removed and a cloth tacked over it, and left mouth up in the cool shade until needed. We now remove the old hive into a sheltered place, or, if flowers are scarce and other swarms near by, into a sh^, out-house, or upon a clean barn- floor. Now drive- out the cross-sticks, and with the hoop-iron sever the attachments of comb from the side of the hive upon which the combs run nearest parallel and can be most easily removed. Pry off the side of the hive with the chisel, cutting the nails if necessary, and commence cutting out th(^ combs. Have a box, half the width of the hive, in which fastex2 some firone brood, and place it upon the opposite side of the hiv« ^om Note. — We have found it most convenient to use fine wire for fastenina; id fiie <*on!t>ft. 138 TRANSFERRING- which the combs are to be removed. The bees will gather into this as the work progresses. Lay a board upon a barrel, for a table, and upon this jour transferring board, (18 inches long by 14 wide,) upon which two or three thicknesses of woolen cloth sliould be tacked. As each comb is cut out, brush off the strag gli ug bees, lest they get besmeared, and lay it upon ihis cushion, and upon it your frame. Mark inside the frame, and trim off the comb in such a manner, that when fitted into the frame, it shall remain in about the same position (top edge up) that it occupied in the old hive, as many of the cells incline upward. Cut the comb a trifle large, and spring the frame 07er it. Fit in all pieces of good worker comh, even if old and black. Combs too thick to let the frames together, should be shaved off. The drone comh may be known by its large coarse cells, and unless placed in the upper part of the outside frames, should be rejected, by which a stock will often be rendered very prosperous that was no profit to its owner before. When transferred in the spring, no more honey need be put into the new hive than is necessary to secure all the worker comb, but if transferred late, plenty of honey should be given. As melted rosin or bits of tin are insufficient for fastening heavy^combs into the fi'ames, we use strips of wood, one-fourth of an inch thick by three-eighths wide. One of these slats is pushed under the comb, another laid on top, and the ends looped together with twine. Raise the end of the cushion-board, to bring the comb to an upright posi- tion,, and set it into the new hive, which should be kept covered lo exclude stranger bees. Care must be taken to place all combs containing brood or eggs, together in the centre, with the store THE APIARY. 139 combs next to the outside. If a comb be too weak to sustain iti3 weight, it must be divided in the middle, and the upper half supported by a cross-piece tacked within the frame. If the air be cool, the bees in the small box set upon the hwe, will be needed to keep the brood warm in the new hive, and may be shaken into it when only two or three frames have been filled, but in warm weather, we usually transfer all the comba before hiving the bees. If there be much honey in the combs, it is well to place a shallow pan — made for the purpose — ^beneath the frames, to catch the drippings. If this be not done, clean off the bottom-board with a wet cloth. Cover the upward pas- sages to keep the bees below, and bringing the drum box, shake the bees on a sheet at the entrance of the hive, (being careful not to jar the combs,) gently brushing them until all have entered. Keep the hive in a vertical position, and carry it steadily (without the cap) to the original stand. Blow a little smoke under the box left to hold the returning bees, and, if Qumerous, jar them upon a sheet in front of the hive. Replace the cap, contract the entrance, and shade the hive from the sun. When the bees are gathering but httle honey, and there is no out-building into which the stock may be taken afler drumming out the bees, place a board upon a sheet, and upon it your drum Dox, and cut out all the combs before transferring them into the frames. As the combs are removed, one by one, brush off the bees upon the sheet, and let them enter the drum box, while an assistant immediately carries the comb into the house, placing it upon a few thicknesses of rags. As soon as the bees have entered the drum box, set it upon the original stand, and let it 140 ROBBING. remaiu until the combs are transferred into the new hive. Then hive the bees as directed. In this way, there is little danger of robbers, or losing the queen, and the brood is not liable to be cliiiled in the warm room. Late in the season, when the bees are rich in stores, and consequently harder to control, the begin- ner may sprinkle a few grains of tobacco upon his rags for smoke, being careful to subdue the bees at the start. If the flowers are not yielding a supply, feed the scraps of honey to the stock the next morning, placing them in the chamber of the hive, as much honey is consumed in elaborating wax to repair the combs. In four or five days after the transfer, the tempo- rary slats are to be removed, and any crooked comb straightened. For convenience, we fasten a permanent loop to one end of a slat, and a piece of wire to the other end. The other slat is lefl smooth, with one end slightly sharpened, to push under the comb when the looped slat is laid on, and the loop slipped over the sharpened end of the under one. Give a twist to the wire at the other end, and the comb is secured. The slats are removed by drawhig the smooth one out of the loop, which loosens the other, and both are drawn out. These slats may be used many times over, and will last for years. ROBBING. • Early in the spring when few flowers have appeared, and afler they fail in the fall, or indeed in any time of scarcity, weak and queenless swarms are apt to be troubled by robbers. Yet the prudent bee-keeper, by caring for such stocks in time, will avoid the danger. "When flowers are scarce, expose no sweets near THE AFIARY. 141 tlie apiary while the bees are flying, as " prevention is better than cure." Robbers may be known by their buzzing around ihe hive in a very suspicious manner. Should one alight, he is hurled from the entrance and frequently receives the fatal sting As long as this state of things continues and the attacked col ony is prompt in defending itself there is Httle danger, but should the robbers gather about the entrance in considerable numbers, they may be dispersed, for the time, by sprinkHng with cold water ; but if the attacked colony be very weak, or not discov- ered until resistance has ceased, it should be closed (ventilating well) and either taken from home until the danger is past, or carried to the cellar or a cool room, and fed diluted sweet for three or four days. When again placed upon the stand, the en- trance should be carefully guarded. If a half inch block be placed upon each side of the entrance and a piece of lath or shingle laid across, robbers will be cautious about entering the shallow passage. A short board leaned against the front of the hive, IS also an excellent protection. Should it happen that a powerful stock from a neighboring forest attacks a colony, re move it as before, and trap the robbers as directed for capturing wild bees. A handful of long grass laid over the entrance, will assist a weak stock. The robbers get entangled in it and are more easily driven away, A piece of glass leaned against the hive over the entrance will often check their depredations. In either case it is best to contract the entrance so as to admit but a single bee at a time, and elevate the rear of the hive, so as to give the attacked bees the advantage of an inclined bottom board. * 142 DESTROYING MOTH-MILLERS. THE MOTH-MILLER. "We regard the fear entertained of the moth-miller as misdi- rected and more imaginary than real. As long as a stock is strong and in good condition it is safe, but should it be suffered to decline from over-swarming, loss of queen, or other cause, the eggs of the miller are allowed to hatch in the exposed combs, and as the bees die off from natural causes the moth- worms increase, and (if not dislodged) finally gain entire pos- session. The female miller is much larger than the male, and resembles in color a sliver from a weather fe=^^^^ beaten fence rail. During the day, 15. Male, she may often be found sticking about the cover 14. Female. of the Hvo. Toward evening, she will be flitting about the entrance, and if the combs are not covered with bees, or cracks and crevices can be found, or litter is retained on the bottom-board, she will be at no loss for a place to deposit her eggs within the hive. There can be no "moth-proof" hive ; but if the entrance be on one side only, and the bottom-board is in- clined, the bees have all the protection against these intruders that a hive can afford. Moth-proof hives (so called) are owned either by persons of httle information, or sold to such by un- principled venders, as well informed bee-keepers know how to prevent the ravages of the moth, and also know that in warm weather, more or less moth eggs are present in all the combs. Hence, a real moth-proof hive must also exclude the bees. Bur- mg the summer months, if a mixture of vinegar and water, well THE APIARY. 143 sweetened, be placed at niglit among the hives, in white dishes, many millers will be drowned. Moth "traps " form the basis of a considerable trade. Some of these might be well enough ii they were empted and the worms destroyed . every week; but as they are usually neglected, they become "moth nurseries," instead of traps. • "Worms may be trapped early in the season, by laying pieces of shingle or split elder, the hollowing side down, upon. the bot- tom-board. The worms will retreat under these to spin their cocoons, and must be destroyed once or twice a week, or they " take unto themselves wings and fly away." The moth is less troublesome in large apiaries. The sprightly httle wren, if en- couraged to build its nest near {he hives, will destroy myriads of worms and insects. They are easily attracted, by putting up boxes made three inches square, with an inch and a half hole for an entrance. ANTS AND OTHER VERMIN. Ants will frequently get into the chamber of the hive if not properly constructed, and whenever disturbed are very annoying to both the bees and the keeper. To hamsh them from the hive start them out with smoke and brush a little spirits of turpen- tine where they "most do congregate," and should they have a hillock near treat it a few times to warm soapsuds^ and the ants will bid you a long adieu. If spirits of turpentine be not at hand, the leaves of catnip, tansyor black walnut, placed in their "retreats," will usually drive them away. Spiders often spin their webs about the hives and ensnare some bees. They sliould 144 PRESERVING HONEY COMBS beliunted out and destroyed. Tlie large mother wasps appeal singlj earl J in the spring to start their nests, and each, if not prevented, is destined to be the parent of a little swarm. They often harass the bees, and should have no quarter. At the ap- proach of winter, the mice may seek a nesting place in the warm' hive. If there are holes large enough to admit them, they should be contracted or covered with wire-cloth. TO PRESERVE HONEY COMBS FROM THE MOTH-WORM. As long as honey combs remain under the protecting care of the bees, they are secure, but if removed from the hive in the heat of summer, the eggs of the moth already upon them will hatch, unless prevented, and finally destroy them. How the eggs get there, is a question. One theory is, that they are deposited by the miller upon the bottom-board and about the en- trance, and occasionally adhering to the feet or legs of the bees, are thus carried among the combs. The other is, that the miller is allowed at times to visit every part of the hive. One thing is certain. If in summer, we drive out aU the bees and close the hive to exclude the miller, hundreds of worms will be de- veloped, in from one to three weeks, acording to the tempera- ture. The same is sometimes true of honey in the surplus boxes, though in a lesser degree. When removed early in the season, if to be kept in the boxes, it should be noticed frequently, and if small hues of a fine white powder are seen upon any of the combs, expose them to the fumes of brimstone. To do this, piepare a match by dipping the end of a cotton rag into meltea THE APIARY. 145 brimstone, and when no arrangement for smoking has been made in the honey room, take a store box or flour barrel, and leaving a cavity at the lower end to receive the match, put in the boxes in such a manner that the smoke can enter them, and cover the top to confine the smoke. "When separated from the combs by straining, honey is secure from the moth, its food being wax, and not honey. Strained honey may be kept from graining, by heating to the boiling point, (setting the vessel in boiling water, to prevent burning,) and keeping it in a dark room. Empty combs, unless the moth eggs have been destroyed by freezing, should be examined occasionally, and if traces of worms can be seen, smoke them also, being careful afterwards that millers do not get to them. WINTERING BEES. In regions where the ice garb of winter remains unbroken from fall till spring, the consumption of food may be lessened, and the safety of hght stocks better secured by wintering them in dry cellars, or even in houses. But in this changeable climate, where the bees are frequently aroused to activity by summer weather in the middle of winter, and impelled to fly out to dis- charge their feces, it is not so necessary to guard against cold, as it is against the great consumption of honey in warm weather, or the filth and disease caused by confining the bees where they can be affected by changes of temperature in the atmosphere. Hence, unless a darh^ dry cellar can be had, the mass of bee- keepers at least, will succeed best by properly preparing thewf stocks, and leaving them upon their summer stands. 148 WINTERING BEES. WINTERING IN THE OPEN AIR. In October, the exact condition of all the stocks should be ascertained, both as to their strength, and their supply of stores for winter. If any are found lacking in both these points, join two together, or strengthen them with bees obtained from neigh- bors, (page 88,) and supply them with extra food. To en- sure the safety of the stocks, till flowers bloom in spring, each should have twenty-five pounds of honey. "With a little prac tice, the amount of stores may be very nearly determined by inspection, or simply by removing the cap and hfting the hive from the stand. However, if the combs ar6 more than one year old, there is much hability of being deceived, when judging by lifting or weighing the hive. The reasons are, that old combs are heavier than new, and often contain large quantities of bee- bread. Still, the experienced bee-keeper will seldom err in his estimate of winter supplies. Should any lack stores, give them reserved frames of sealed honey, or if this cannot be done, and other stocks are very heavy, exchange a frame with each. If the lower part of such combs are empty, they may be placed near the centre of the needy stocks, as. there should be honey directly above the bees ; but if full, place them a little to one side of the cluster, for the reason that bees need empty cells to winter m. The comb in each frame should have an inch hole cut through it, four or five inches from the top, to enable the bees, in extreme cold weather, to reach the stores in the outside combs without danger of freezing, by leaving the cluster to crawl around the edge of the frame. THE APIABT I47 Over the Bummer quilt place a woolen quilt or piece of carpet or other woolen material, and above this place an old bag filled with chaff (or other absorbing material) to absorb the moisture arising from the hive. It is neceesary to secure upward ventilation through the holes near the top of the upper box without a draft. This will absorb the moisture generated by tlie bees, thug keeping the combs dry and free from frost, while it permits the foul air to pass oif so gradually that cold currents within the hive are avoided. Stocks standing in exposed situations, may be greatly benefited by enclosing the hives (except the entrances) with caps made of flags or rye straw, ^being careful to exclude the mice. Set up a broad board to shade the hive, and especially the entrance, during the middle part of the day. If this be done, the bees will seldom leave the hive when the air is cool enough to chill them. When a judicious method of swarming has been pursued, and the colonies properly cared for, they should be populous and well provisioned for winter, requiring little trouble in preparing, or risk in keeping them safely through till spring. Such stocks, if shielded from the piercing wintry winds, and properly ventilated, will pass a Siberian winter unin- jured. Bees should not be disturbed during winter, except at the close of every long spell of cold weather ; when, if the aii be warm enough for them to fly without being chilled, open all the entrances to their full capacity, allowing the rays of the sun to strike the alighting board, when the bees will £y out, void their feces and return, without loss, to the hive. 148 WINTEKING. This is the greatest difficulty in northern bee-keeping. In the far South bees often gather pollen and honey, at times through the winter months. In such climates there is but little danger of loss in winter, unless their stores are almost exhausted when the cold season comes. But in the North, and especially in the far North, the bees gather noth- ing from the fields for fully six months. Many experiments in winter- ing have been made, within the past twenty years. At that time, and even later,, the principal writers recommended wintering in cellars, but more recently the tendency everywhere, except in the far north, where continued uninterrupted cold weather lasts a long time, has been towards wintering on the summer stands. Throughout the Middle and Southern States we recommend only this kind of wintering. If hives are properly prepared with gentle upward ventilation, absorbing material, a supply of young bees, sufficient good Btores, and protected from the cold winds and unseasonable sunny days, there need be little fear in wintering. PEEPAKATION FOB WINTEE. This should be begun before the last honey season is over. See that every colony has a good young fertile queen. Unite weak and queen- less stocks. See that each hive has from twenty to thirty pounds of good honey, with combs, which also contain bee-bread, for rearing young bees. If later stores have been gathered from honey-dew,* cider mills, refuse from sugar refineries, or if the fall honey is very acid, they should be extracted, and the hives supplied with combs of good dark honey, set aside in summer with the honey from unsealed boxes, or they should be fed with sugar syrup. Give in such cases from five to ten pounds of sugar to each colony. Make a syruj), putting one part of water, by measure, to two parts of THE APIAET. I49 sugar; let it come to a boil, to be sure that all has desolved, and feed it in suitable feeders in the cap. Give it to them warm. Any kind of a good feeder, with floats to prevent drowning, will answer. A good way is to fill quart fruit jars with the syrup, tie over the mouth a piece of cheese cloth, or other strong thin material, and invert directly on the top bars of the broodnest; packing the quilts around well, to keep in the heat. Sometimes two or three jars will be drained in a single night. If there is sufficient brood in the hive, feed rapidly, so as not to induce too rapid breeding. But if there is little or no brood present, the feeding should be more slowly, to induce breeding, for a plenty of young hees is one of the important elements in successful wintering. In sections where there is little or no fall honey to stimulate the queen, we wouid advise extracting the honey, from at least a few of the central frames, and stimulate so as to go into winter quarters with a fine supply of young bees, as well as a plentiful supply of good stores. There is no better winter food than syrup made from nice A sugar. At this season out door feeding must not be practiced, because the stronger colonies, which least need it, will get ihe most, and often so fill up the brood nest, that there is not a good nest of empty combs in which to begin the winter. This feeding, when practiced, should be completed before cold weather sets in, in earnest. October is the time to complete it. If the hives are to be wintered indoors, the cellar or winter house should be dark, dry, of equable temperature, not lower than forty, nor greater than sixty degrees. A number of colonies in the same room, will help to keep up the warmth of the cellar. A small ventilation shaft, opening without, with a damper to regulate the draft, will give ventilation in the room. If in a cellar, under a dwelling, a small pipe from the cellar* connected with the pipe of a stove in use, will keep the air dry and 150 WINTEEING. pure. Tlie hives should be moved into the cellar with great care, to prevent jarring, so soon as cold weather sets in, in earnest, and remain until it is well over, even to May, in very cold latitude^ though they should be set out, a few at a time, for a fly on some warm day in mid- winter. They should not be taken permanently from such indoor wint- ing places, before the very bleak wintry winds are over. If a mistake is made, and they are set out, before severe weather is over, it is, we believe, best to return them to their quarters, if it should suddenly blow up severely cold, as much loss is apt to ensue. When wintered in cellars, much upward ventilation should be allowed. The cap may be left off, and a piece of fine wire-cloth tacked on, so as to prevent the depredations of mice . On this, quilts, or boards may be laid, covering partially, according to the strength of the colony. Strong colonies require more, and weak ones less ventilation. Evidently this mode of wintering requires a great deal of labor and iimeZ^/ attention. Sometimes with the best care the bees will become restless, we know not why, and will always need a fly during winter; many people have no such suitable cellar, and they are expensive if made, or they naay not well answer the purpose, owing to the nature of the soil. For these reasons, and the ease of wintering on summer stands, almost everywhere in onr country, except, perhaps, in the extreme northern sections, we recommend generally to winter on summer stands. In rather northern climates we recommend air chambers around the bees, to prevent sudden changes in the weather. After hives are pre- pared with stores, and otherwise for winter, we recommend that they be packed for winter in this way: Beduce the frames to six or eight, according to size, for bees winter better when the chamber is not too large for the size of the colony. Remember this fact, in preparing for THE APIART. 151 •winter, that bees can stand cold, but that they cannot stand dampness Arrange so that the moisture, generated by the bees, can gently escape upwards, through some absorbing material, without giving a cold draft of air. This condition is attained in several ways of packing, when holes are made in each end of the upper chamber, to allow ventilation. It is attained by placing chaff cushions at the sides and over the brood nest; by putting over the hive an extra box, packing between the t\vo with absorbing material, or by placing above the quilt two or three thickness of cotton batting, or a bag of chaff, saw dust, or something of the kind. We would recommend that the absorbing material used be always in a bag, to prevent littering up the hive, unless pads of cot- ton batting are used. Perhaps, nothing is better than this. The honey board above confines the moisture so much to the hive as to endanger it in cold climates. A good cushion for both sides and top of a hive, is made as follows: Take a bag, a little wider than the depth of the hive, from front to rear, fill it with chaff or cut straw, so as to be two inches thick all over. Tack a few stitches here and there, as in a mattress, to hold the chaff in place. This may be of proper length simply to fit tightly in the upper box, or longer, so as to reach the bottom on each side of the frames over division boards. The latter is preferable in rather cold climates, or where wide hives are used. Contract the en trance and turn up the alighting board, to keep the sunshine from the entrance, so that it may not tempt them from the hive, when it is too cool for them to fly freely. The entrance should never be over a quart- er of an inch deep, so as to check mice. This can be supplemented with auger holes above, which for winter can be stopped with corks. Thus arranging for winter is less trouble than moving into cellars, and the hives are always in place. Turn down the board from the firont a. 152 WINTEElUa. few warm days, or open from the caps, if snow is ^eep, and the bees get a good fly naturally, without mixing up, as they often do when set out for a fly. The labor of moving out, and returning several hives to the cellar, is considerable, and the warm day may be most inopportune, — just when some other business is pressing, and the bees must be neglect- ed. There is less danger from ' * spring dwindling, " and on the whole we would recommend out door wintering. It is well always to have the hive on the south-east side of a good evergreen hedge, or high, tight board fence to break the force of the cold penetrating winds. If convenient, extra coverings for winter are useful ; but they should be such as are easily removed as spring opens, so as to permit the rays of the sun to shine directly on the hive in April and May, to promote breeding. There should, by no means, be permitted any cracks in the cover or sides of hives through which rain or wet may beat or drive. Dryness is an essential condition, else combs will mould, and conduce towards dysentery, whether in the cellar or on the summer stand. In preparing for winter, half inch holes sliould be cut put in the centre of each comb, two or three inches below the top bar, and one or two strips laid across top of the frames, under ihe quilt, to procure free passage of the bees from one comb to another, in very cold wtjather. In the North this is very essential, but not so important in the South. Whether chaff cushions, straw, thick quilts of batting or other absorb- ing material be used, the quilt should be put over the bees first and the packing afterwards. A plain piece of ducking is perhaps as good cloth as any other for this use, as bees will gnaw it less than any other, except enameled cloth, which is both more expensive, and difficult to fold down close and tight to the sides of the hive. In Spring the absorbing mate- rial should be replaced by some warmer material, to better confine the heat. THE APIAEY. " I53 FEEDING BEES. Feeding bees differs materially from feeding other live stock. It is not absolutely necessary to feed at all, unless wben stores fail in winter or early spring. Then no liquid food should be used. If no frames of sealed honey are on hand to give a needy colony, candy is the next best food for this season of the year. Sticks of plain white or clear sugar candy, thurst down between the combs, among the bees, before their honey is quite exhausted, will greatly lengthen out their stores. A half pound mlay be given at a time. It is cheap food, as a pound will last from four to six weeks. If a colony alive the previous day is found when most of the bees are apparently dead, they can usually be revived by sprinkling them with warm diluted sweets, and letting the nive stand a few hours in a warm room. They should then be given frames of honey or else fed. Box honey placed directly on the frames and cover- ed well with woolen material will be appropriated in the coldest weather and save the colony. It is always best to see that each hive has in the fall, sufficient stores for wintering, varying from twenty to thirty-five pounds of honey, ao. cording to climate or mode of wintering. Eather more honey is con- sumed on the summer stands, than if wintered in the cellar. It is well to set away some full combs of the dark and least salable honey in the summer to give to weak stocks in the fall. But if this has been omitted, they should be fed sufficient stores for winter, before it gets too cold. A syrup made of two parts by measure of A sugar, and one of water; fed warm in the cap each evening will be carried down very rapidly. Feed as fast as possible, to prevent too much breeding, and to prevent rob- bing. Feed regularly until the necessary amount is given. Stop the holes in the caps whilst feeding, especially if honey is used. Contract the entrance, and be careful not to drop honey or syrup about the hive, as 154 TEOBING BEES. ^ much loss is sustained when bees rob and kill each other. This caution is necessary whenever feeding is necessary. In spring all colonies should be contracted by close fitting division boards; the combs being removed, except so many as the bees cover well Every few days insert an empty comb or sheet of comb-foundation in the centre of the brood- nest. Hives are thus built up very rapidly. If weak, or stores are in- guf&ceint, they should be stimulated by regular feeding in addition. If there is present a plenty of sealed honey, they are stimulated in using it, if you shave ofl the caps a little at a time, from one of the outside combs. If stores are scarce, they should be stimulated by feeding thin sugar syrup, in small auger hole feeders, placed under the quilt, and filled by raising the flap from the hole in the quilt. They are thus stimulated to regular brood-rearing, when they would not enter feeders placed above the quilt for two or three days, in a cold spell. Good sugar syrup is much better than honey at this season of the year, be- cause it does not so much induce robbing, whereby many bees are killed which can be illy spared at this important season. But we advise cau- tion in the use of cheap grape sugar, because it often contains so much sulphuric acid as to ruin the bees. "When bees fly before natural pollen is gathered, they should be fed with flour, as a substitute. If no water is near, bees should, in summer, be watered regularly every day. A shallow trough with pebbles answers well. A good way is to invert large glass jars in plates. Only a small amount of water escapes around the mouth, and this is renewed as the bees suck it up. The glass is convenient to see the depth of water. During honey droughts in summer, but little brood is reared, unless the queen is stimulated to activity by regular feeding. But if systematic feeding is pursued, especially with weak swarms, the hives are fiUed THK APIARr. 155 witli young strong bees when the next harvest opens, and are enabled to secure much more surplus honey than if neglected. In warm weather, almost any kind of a feeder, placed in the cap, with floats, to prevent drowning, will suf&ce. Good floats are made of thin boards, one-half inch less in size than the vessel. Nail a piece across the centre to prevent splitdng, and with a coarse saw, slit the board in narrow strips, from each end to the cross piece. Three things are speci- ally desirable in a feeder: That they be accessible for bees, without leaving an unnecessary hole into the broodnest, which permits heat to escape; that they be filled and examined, without the escape of a bee; and, that they be tight to prevent leaking. Tin vessels of various kinds, have been made. These hold the honey well, but at times bees will not readily enter the cold metal, when feed- ing is desirable. Boxes of various kinds have been made, with entrances from below, and close glass tops. These answer a good purpose. Frames or boxes with duck cloth bags, are sometimes used, but they are in the way in the broodnest, and if used above, the syrup often crys- talizes in the cloth and makes it stiff. The simplest feeders are made with the auger. Take a strip of two-inch board, six inches wide and with a one and a half inch centre bit bore two auger holes three-fourths of an inch apart, from one edge nearly through to the other. Near the back end, bore with the same auger, directly in the division between the two nearly through. This connects the two and makes a hole for pouring in the food from the top. Tack in it a wire cup, made by bend- ing over the thumb a piece of wire cloth, to keep back the bees when feeding. On this division near to the front, bore with the same auger holes one-half inch deep, side by side, nearly to the front, and in the 156 FEEDERS. • centre of the division, bore three-eiglit inch anger holes through to the bottom for entrances. TacJfe four strips on the bottom, to give entrance to these, and a strip over the auger holes in the edge, and it is done. It may be set directly over the hole in the quilt, and a piece of glass laid over the entrances. Other holes may be made side by side, and the feeder as large as desired. The entrances need be only between every other hole. If preferred the entrances can be made on each edge of the block, at the upper edge of the auger holes. In this case the strip to cover the auger holes must 'be narrowed to suit. Such entrances are best for feeders made -with three-fourths inch augers, in inch boards to place directly on the frames, under the quilt, for early spring feeding. As many holes as desired may be made side by side, and connected by the division being bored away from above. A piece of glass laid over these holes, "wiU give a view of the interior . Simple, cheap, and excel- lent feeders, can thus be easily made, which will answer all the pur- poses of the apiary. We have lately seen a very valuable feeder, made by J. M Shuck, of Des Moines, Iowa. It consists of a block of wood two inches square and thick, and as long as the frame, three deep grooves run from end to end- The end pieces close the ends of these grooves and extend one half an inch above. A top bar is put on and it sits in the hive hke a frame. It is filled by a wire cloth thimble from the top and this closed with a piece of tin, which turns on a nail. PEOFITS OF BEE-KEEPING. Bees are kept for profit, pleasure, or recreation; and as a means of promoting or regaining health. Unlike other live THE API^BT. 157 stock, they are self-supporting. Tliej noc only provide their own food, but with little care, will store a large surplus of their delicious product. How much easier it is to give bees the Httle attention needed) than the trouble and expense of caring for cattle, pigs, and sheep, three times a day, which no good farmer complains of. It is indeed strange, that any person, occupying a rood of " mother earth," should neglect so rich a source of profitable enjoyment. Could our young men and young ladies, who now spend hours in idleness or vain amusements, be induced to purchase a swarm or two of bees, and give them the little attention needed, it would not only prove highly remunerative, but would lead them into habits of industry and thoughtfulness, and fit them for bet- ter citizens. By the introduction of improved hives, a fresh interest has been awakened in this branch of rural economy, and with honey at present prices, there would undoubtedly be a general rush into bee-keeping, were it not for the fear of stings, and a vague behef that "luck" has something to do with successful bee management. A Uttle practical knowledge with regard to the nature of bees, will enable any one to obtain per- fect control over them, and will also open his eyes to the fact, that, with properly constructed movable-comb hives, success in bee-keeping is not left to "luck" or "chance," but depends upon the observance of simple rules and regulations. With such hives, the bee-keeper is enabled to ascertain the exact condition of a stock at any time, and thus remedy defects, or easily remove any comb in the hive for any purpose whatever. A few stocks of bees are often entirely neglected, and conse- quently less profitable, while a larger collection (needing little 158 PROFITS OF THE APIABY. more care) receive proper attention ; wlien the profits, as from farm products, will mainly depend upon the season. "The intelligent, practical bee-keeper, can take care of five hundred swarms, and make a portion of the hives needed for aew colonies." — U. S. Patent Office Report. " The profits resulting from a judicious and proper system of bee culture, may be safely estimated at from one hundred to five hundred f)er cent, per annum. I have three swarms, which have paid mo in honey and increase of stock, upwards of $100 in two years. The average profit upon my entire stock, for three years, has been three hundred and twenty-seven per cent, per annum, or $3.27 has been the annual profit on every dollar invested." —Dr. Eddy. "On the 25th of April, 1858, I purchased ten hives of bees, m the old fashioned box hive, for $50. They were so full that I had to divide them before I could move them. I divided the ten, and made me twenty hives. On the thirteenth day after, I divided ten again. I took four queens from one hive, in the cells, and ten from another, and gave each swarm a queen-cell, which hatched the next day, making thirty hives. I sold from those thirty hives, $547 worth of honey, and the increase of my bees is worth $500 more, making $1,047 in one year, from an outlay of $50. I took from one hive, twelve frames filled with honey, in fourteen days, and I had a number of hives from which I took twelve frames, filled with honey, in twenty-one days." — E. Townly, Cincinnati, 0. The "American Agriculturist" gives the results of the apiary of Bidwell Brothers, of Minnesota, for two years past. In THE APIARY. 159 1864, tlieir apiar.y consisted of one Italian, and fi%;-eiglit stocks of black bees. The one Italian stock was increased to fifteen. and the fifty-eight stocks of black bees to one hundred and eigiitj-one, principally by artificial swarming, and averaged 42>^ pounds box honey per stock; while, for the past season, from two hundred and four old stocks they received, on an a"verage, a trifle over seventy-five pounds surplus honey per stock. "A. Kearns, of Grundy County, started in this busines-s, with a single swarm in an " old gum " owned by a neighbor, of whom he received half the proceeds for keeping them. One hive, one year old, filled three boxes that weighed as follows : one 34K, one 35H, and one 36/^ pounds, boxes and honey together, and the fourth partly full. This bee business is of growing importance. As soon as these discoveries are thoroughly known, bee raising wiU become as general as any other branch of production. "When men learn that it is just about as cheap to raise honey as not to raise it, and far cheaper than to buy it, they wOl no longer avoid the business." — Pra/irie Farmer. Let a person estimate the profits of bee-keeping, by commenc- ing with a few stocks, and on an average, doubhng every year, or putting the yearly average of surplus honey per stock very low, compute the interest accruing from capital invested in bees, and consider how easy it is to accumulate such capital, with the fact that constant attention is never required, and that hives will last almost a Hfetime, he wiU not be surprised to find the most intelhgent men in this country and Europe, turning their atten- tion to apiarian pursuits. CHAPTEE yn. DIAKT OF HONEY PLANTS. % Success in bee-culture depends upon various thingg, just as success in every other line of business. The farmer who aims to keep a few hives, in some neglected corner, and who "has not time " to attend to them at the proper season, cannot expect to find the bees very profit- able. He can no more expect a large income from them, than he could from his corn which he "had not time" to work, after he had planted it. But whilst this is true, careful and timely attention is, perhaps, no- where better paid than when judiciously given to bees. This chapter will be devoted especially to the different ways in which that which is pleasant an ornamental around the home, may be made also profit- able for honey. FBUIT TBEES. Every home should be surrounded with fruit trees, unless so restrict- ed by walls and streets in the city , that there is no room for them. Every farmer, from year to year, should increase the number of fruit trees. The value of fruit for health can hardly be over estimated. Bees are very important in securing a good yield of fruit. Sent by nature, from flower to flower, they carry the pollen and fructify the germ, and make a good crop more certain. A few years ago bees were banished from a certain town in Conueoti- BIAET OP HONEY PLANTS. 161 cut. Tinder the impression that they injured the fruit; but, in less than two years, the edict was removed, because their loss was felt in the failure of the fruit to set, and all were convinced of the wrong done the bees and the bee-keeper. Cherries, peaches, pears, and apples, furnish the first good honey harvest. Every bee-keeper should therefore have his orchards to build up the bees first, and afterwards repay well in fruit for many^ years and sometimes for generations. Fruit trees are almost the only kind of farm produce which continue to bear for the next generation. Fruit trees of all kinds may be obtained of nurserymen, but we advise always to purchase direct, and not from peddlers, who will often deliver them at the most inopportune time. If one is not able to purchase, they may be raised from the seed and grafted the second year, or buds or grafts may be inserted on any natural stocks. Good dry soil is best for fruit trees. Let it be well worked as if for a crop, and then given a good dressing with manure. A few words may be useful concerning the mode of planting ; The holes should be dug large enough to hold the roots without bending from their natural position. The finest and best soil should be worked in and around the roots ; filling every space and bringing every root fully in contact with it, so that no open- ing is left among them. If very dry, a pail of water should be added, and dirt drawn up a little higher than the surrounding soil, and packed down firmly with the foot. It should not be planted deeper than it stood in the nursery after the ground settles. If in an exposed position the tree should be staked and tied firmly to it with a band of straw or other material. The first summer all fruit trees should be mulched with coarse manure or litter, from three to six inches deep and extending a foot or two fe,rther in every direction than the roots. In a fruit orchard Ig2 rJUUlT TKEES. a hoed crop is greatly preferable to any other, for the first five years. After this start, fruit trees will grow and produce fairly in turf. The cherry tree thrives best on a sandy or gravelly soil, but succeeds well in almost any situation except a wet one. It is one of the most ornamental of fruit trees, and claims a place in the yard and garden. It thrives well anywhere along the fence or hedge. Bees work rapidly on it in the Spring. The plum attains its greatest perfection on a strong, clay soil, where they grow most thriftily and suffer least from "curculo." The peach is of easy culture, and of such rapid growth that where wood is scarce it may be grown advantageously for fire wood. Of this fi"uit it is not necessary to speak. A warm, sandy, and dry soil is the most desirable location for this fruit. The soil should be moderately rich, and if convenient, on rather high land, having a northern slope. Orchards may be well arranged with peach trees alternating with standard apples or pears. The peach yields first and by the time that the apple trees need the ground they must be cut out. Fruit trees of all kind may be planted either in the fall or spring. In cold climates, where they are in danger of freezing out, it is best to wait ■until spring, and then carefully set out as early as the ground will per- mit. The fine roots should not be permitted to get dry, but be kept wrapped in some soft, moist material. If once thoroughly dried in the sun, the growth is retarded, if the tree is not injured. SMAIili rEUITS. First among these stand the Eed Raspberry. It is a very profitable crop, when grown convenient to market. The raspberry succeeds best in a moderately rich, mellow soil. It should be planted in rows five ox DIA.ET OF HONE? PLANTS. 163 six feet apart, and well cultivated to produce the finest results. The roots of the raspberry run near the surface of the soil, hence care must be taken not to plant too deep. Soon after the fruit trees, it yields an abundance of beautiful honey, for two or three weeks. The honey is secreted rapidly and bees work on it throughout the day. In damp, rainy weather, bees visit its blossoms, when scarcely anything else seems to be yielding honey. Blackberries, currants, strawberries, and gooseberries, are visited by the bees, but among these for purposes of the apiarian, none compare with the raspberry. BASSWOOD. This tree is too well known to need any description. It yields rich, light honey, from July 10th for about two or three weeks. In large portions of America it is found in abundance, in the natural forests along with the poplar or tulip tree. Difierent varieties of the poplar bear the name of white-wood, which yields honey in abundance in May and June. SOUTHEBN HONEY TEEES. In the South the orange and lime trees, sour-wood, poplar, holly, and persimmon, yield large quantities of honey. In some parts of North Carolina and Virginia the persimmon is found in great abundance. A writer from Henderson county, N. C. , wrote some time since to the Magazine as follows, concerning it : "The persimmon affords plenty of honey where it is abundant. Swine eagerly hunt for the urn shaped flowers when they fall, and thrive well on them. This tree does not injure the growth of grass or crops near it. The fruit is liked by many persons. Bees go a long distance IGi SOUTHELN nONEY TEEES. BASS-WOOD. DIABT OP HONEY PLANTS. 1G5 to revel in its white fringe-like flowers, of a delicate odor, resembling honey scented with anise. It is one of our finest honey plants." It blooms in spring, soon after the fruit trees cease to yield their honey. Rev. James "W. Shearer, formerly of Virginia, tells us that through many of the poorest parts of Virginia and the Carolinas, the persimmon tree abounds, and describes it thus : " It is a tree seldom found in the forests, but abounds in waste land throughout many parts of Virginia and North Carolina. It grows from twenty to forty feet in height, and is peculiar in this respect, that when left for shade, the soil around and under the tree is enriched, and grain wiU grow even up to the roots better than in the surrounding soil. The fruit, which is a very sure crop, is unfit for use until after heavy frost falls upon it on the tree. "When fully matured in winter it tastes very similar to the date of commerce. In many section where the persim- mon abounds the land can be bought at very cheap rates." THE OEANGE. In the far .South, where the orange is grown, bees gather honey from its blossoms in abundance, whilst northern bee-keepers have their hives in the cellar or covered deep in the snow. THE SOUR-WOOD, OR SORREL TREE. The sour-wood is a small tree, abounding in the natural forests in many parts of the South, from Virginia to Georgia. It grows from twenty-five to forty feet higli, and in the early summer is full of fringes of blossoms, which afford large amounts of the most beautifuljand delicious honey in the world. Each little blossom somewhat resembles the cup of the lilly of the valley, but somewhat between it and the mountain 166 SOUK-WOOD, OR SOKEEL TEEE. laurel in appearance. The tree is covered with these little cnps, which are so rich in honey that it is pleasant to suck the honey from the blos- soms. Eev. J. W. Shearer tells us that he has often, vhilst riding along the road, broken off bunches of the blossoms and sucked them, to gel the refreshing honey, or shaken the honey from their cups into his hand and eaten it. He declares it to be in flavor and appearance superior to any honey with which he is acquainted. It is a slow growth, and the wood is hard and firm. The general growth of the tree is somewhat like the dog-wood. In addition to the above mentioned shrubs, and trees there are many which produce much honey in different parts of our broad and diversi- fied land. The first place must be given to basswood and sour-wood, among honey producing trees, and these followed by the magnolias, orange, lemon, locust, maple, the poplar or tulip tree, white-wood, red- wood, fruit trees of all kinds, the persimmon, the button-wood, the butter bush, chestnut, the Judas tree, black gum, mezquith, and many others. SHEUBS — ^RASPBEEEIES. First among shrubs stands the raspberry, and of these the red rasp- berry is the best for honey. In the South the andromtdas of different kinds, known by various names as " heath worths, " "bee meadow," and " leather leaf," are more profitable for honey. THE SUMAC yields an abundance of good honey wherever it is found. There are in some sections two varieties — the early and the late. Both are shrubs growing from five to fifteen feet high. The early variety has red berries when ripe, and the late, yellow berries. The early sumac begins to DAIEY OF HONEX PLANTS. 167 bloom iu June, and lasts from three to four weeks. The blossoms coming out in succession. The later variety blossoms in August and yields good "pasturage for two or three weeks. This plant is found in great abundance in many parts of our country. It has become of con- siderable importance as an article of commerce. The leaves are gather- ed, dried and ground. It is used extensively for dyeing purposes. The willows and alders are very timely for bees in spring. Besides these there are a number of shrubs of great local importance to the bee- keeper's success, the witch hazel, hawthorn, the wild crab apple, blackberry, wild cherry, the Virginia creeper, the bush honey suckle, St. John worts and many others. Each bee-keeper should study well the flora of his own locality and manage his bees with discretion accord- ing to the expected honey flow. The only general advice we would give concerning the cultivation of trees for honey, beyond that given on page 155, is once more to call at- tention to the importance of good fruit on every farm, and the necessity for shade trees for stock. "Where the persimmon abounds, its peculiar character of not impovershing the soil, makes it a most excellent shade tree for cattle, at the same time a treasure to the bees when in bloom. The locust should be planted along lanes and in spare places, because of the great value of its timber for posts when cut, as well as for bees whilst growing. PERENNIAL PLANTS. First among these stand the clovers — white and alsike. "White clover is two well known to need any description. It should be sown among other grasses for pasture land. If sowi?i alone it takes from eight to twelve pounds to the acre. It begins to yield honey about the first of June and continues from four to six weeks. 168 PEBENNIAL PLANTS. ALSIKE CLOVER. DIARY OF HONEY PLANTS. . 169 Alsike clover seems to be intermediate between the white and red in size of growth and also in the size of color of the blossom. The seed is only about half the size of red clover seed, and it requires only half as much by measure to sow an acre. In other respects alsike clover is sown and treated like other clover. In sowing only from five to seven, pounds per acre is needed. It seems to furnish richer pasturage than red clover and at the same time has all the advantages of white clover for honey. When cut at different times during the summer, it yields an abundance of honey. The seed is still high, and as it is growing in favor with farmers the demand for the seed is so great that the price is good. It succeeds best in a cool, moist, loamy soil. Lucerne seems in some sections to yield honey in abundance, whilst others report that they have it in abundance, yet have never seen bees at work upon it. Sow as clover, with from twelve to eighteen pounds per acre. It may be that some do not consider it a honey plant because during its season other honey, which the bees prefer, is so abundant that they neglect it, whilst in other sections they visit this plant in quantities. These remarks apply not only to lucerne, but to many other bee-plants, which in other communities are not visited by bees. This insect is very choice — like a boy at dinner. Let him commence on dessert and he will be content to make his whole meal of cake, pie, and puddings, to the neglect of potatoes, bread, and cabbage, So Bees will always work on that plant which they find at the time preferable for honey in the vicinity, to the neglect of other good honey plants, which would be visited in the absence of the first. Again, another reason why certain flowers yield much honey in one vicinity, and noti^ another, seems to depend upon the nature of the soil and climate, yet we are unable at present to give more than general reasons, which the progress of the bee-keeping industry must examine, and settle so far 170 MEIilliOT. as possible. It is well known that certain flowers yield honey all day and others, only in the morning. Some secrete it only in moist, warm weather, and others, in cool weather. Fruit trees fail sometimes to yield honey in cold, cloudy weather. Buckwheat yields none of consequence in very hot and dry, or in very wet weather. Many have noticed that in two fields, side by side, which have been managed differently, bees will be found thick on the blossoms in one, whilst not a bee is seen on the same kind of blossoms in the other. And besides, many have noticed that one season bees work greedily on a plant, which they will not touch another year. The reason may be either, First. Because for some cause affected by climate or soil, there is no secretion of honey one year; or. Second. Because some other blossoms at the time yields more honey which the bees prefer. Extremes of cold or heat, wet or dry weather are apt to seriously af- fect the flow of honey, and besides flowers grown in hard poor soil oflimes yield much less honey than others of the same kind near by in soil which is in good cultivation, moist, and fertile. So many different things, climatic and otherwise affect the honey flow, that we should not too suddenly conclude that any given plant does not yield honey because in one particular locality, under one management, and in any particular year it failed to produce honey as we expected. This whole field is a comparatively new one, and one which may well claim careful study by apiarians in the future. Melilot is a handsome plant ; but it is uselesss, except for ornament DIAEY OF HONEY PIANTS. 171 and for honey. It yields finely, but wlien established becomes a very troublesome weed. It is an annual. We mention it here because of its popular name — sweet clover. Sow three or four pounds to the acre. GOLDEN BOD AND ASTEKS. These fall flowers stand perhaps next to clovers among perennial plants as honey producers. Both the Golden Eod and the Aster abound in large parts of the United Htates. There are many varieties of each, yet neither are to be recommended for cultivation, because, like the Oxeyed Daisy and the Blue Thistle, they are looked on as weeds. They spring up in abundance in uncultivated fields. The Golden Hod may be known by its 'general appearance. It runs up in a stalk from one to GOLDEN KOD. DIARY OF HONEY P1,ANTS. 173 tiiree feet liigh, — a rod above the plant capped by a buncli of yellow- flowers. It blooms in September, and in some sections furnisbes an im- portant part of winter stores for bees. In many places both the Golden Eod and the Asters abound, and as they blossom at the same time the honey is apt to be mixed. The Aster yields a lighter colored honey than the Golden Eod, when the weather is such as to secrete it rapidly. Few apiarians are aware of the immense quantities of honey which may be obtained from, the Aster, because hives are generally filled with honey for winter, and the bees are not stimulated to active effort, and bees at this season are loth to build comb in boxes for storing it. Since the introduction of comb-foundation great amounts of Aster honey may be gotten from the broodnest, by the use of the extractor. So soon as the harvest opens, remove all the sealed combs, and fill their places vdth sheets of comb-foundation. The bees are stimulated to the iatensest activity. Every few days the honey should be extracted. When the harvest is over remove these new frames, to be kept for build- ing up in Spring, and return the fall combs for winter. It was from ihe white astei: that Eev. J. "W. Shearer secured, in Tennessee, such a yield in 1874. He commenced with one swarm, as reported in the Magazine at the time, and in September and October extracted near five hundred pounds of aster honey, from five colonies, to which they liad been increased during the summer, besides leaving a full winter supply in each of the five hives. With improved methods of securing this honey, it should receive more attention wherever this flower abounds . In the Fall the fields are white with the aster through many parts of the Eastern and Middle States. There are many varieties of aster called popularly by different names "Iron Weed," "Farewell Summer," "Eag-weed," "Stickweed," &c. in different regions. The Blue Aster is not so common, but is as good a honey plant. 174 GOLDEN EOD AND ASTEB. BLUB ASTEK. DIAKT or HONEY PIANTS. 175 The Aster grows from one to tlaree feet high. It sends forth one main stalk, with several branches, each of which is covered with small white flowers, varying from one to five hundred blossoms on a stalk. They continue to open for weeks, until heavy frosts kill them. Slight frosts do not effect the blossoms, and bees can generally find honey in the late blossoms, until cold weather confines them to the hive. Of this plant, Mr. Langstroth says: "Ifthere is any plant which would justify cultivation exclusively for bees, it is the borage. It blossoms continually from June until severe frost, and like the raspberry, is fre- quented by bees even in moist weather. The honey from it is of a superior quality, and an acre would support a large number of stocks." CATNIP, MOTHEKWOKT, AND HOAKHOUND. These three plants blossom about the middle of June, and remain in blossom from four to six weeks. The flowers are very rich, and are visited by the bees at all hours and in nearly all kinds of weather. Mr. M. Qainby says: *' In a few instances, I have known the catnip to last twelve weeks, yielding honey during the whole time. If there is any plant I would cultivate specially for honey it would be the catnip. I find nothing to surpass it. " Perhaps it is best to cultivate only such plants as are useful otherwise and incidentally yield much honey. Catnip seed scattered in fence comb- ers, stony places, or along hedge rows, which are not kept in cultivation, will pay well. TEASEL. This plant is cultivated largely in some parts of New York for its dried blossoms, which are used by the manufacturers in taking the nap I^JQ ANNUALS. from cloth. It yields a beautiful honey in large quantities, but coming almost with basswood, cannot be cultivated solely for honey. It begins to bloom about July 10th, and lasts from twenty to twenty-five days — about a week longer than basswood. It is much thinner than bass- wood and beautifully white,— almost transparent whtn sealed up in the comb, but the flavor is strong and objectionable to many people. BOSTESET OB THOKOUGHWOKT. This plant yields honey during July and August, sometimes a little into September. In some localities and seasons it yields good honey very liberally. Beside these, the whole families of mints, balms, and mallows are good honey plants. Plants of the genus Cleome, Polanisia, and Sophau- ihus abound in the great North-west, from Illinois to Oregon, and yield good supplies of honey. Early in the Spring bees are assisted in pollen gathering by the dandelion and crocus, which show their blossoms soon after the first warm weather sets in. First in importance among annuals stands buckwheat, though not first in the quality of honey. Buckwheat honey is quite dark, but rich and good. This grain cannot be raised to advantage where the sum- mer is long and hot. la cool mountanious regions the yield is best. Bees generally work on buckwheat during the month of August, unless the weather is extremely dry or wet. If an acre or two of buckwheat be sown a month or six weeks before the regular time for sowing it will yield honey for the bees just when pasturage fails in most places — from DIABY OF BONET PLA.XTS. 177 the middle of July to the middle of August. Sow from two to three pecks per acre, in May, June, and July, to yield the best pasturage for bees. MIGNONETTE. "We beUeve that this well known fragrant favorite can be grown specially for honey with advantage. Its honey properties are well known, yet recent experiments have shown it more rich in honey than is generally believed. It is a hardy annual, and in good soil, in ordi- nary seasons, will bloom continuously until frost. About gardens, in borders, among shrubbery it is a favorite, because of its rapid growth, continued delicate blossoms, and fragrant smell. Bees visit this flower from ** early dawn to dewy eve," and in all kinds of weather when they can fly. It should be sown in an open border, in April and May, and should be thined out or transplanted, giving each plant plenty of room. For cultivation, the plants should be in rows two feet apart— wide enough apart for the plow — and the plants some ten inches distant in the row. In good soil they spread rapidly, so as to cover the ground. If well thinned in this way, the plants will become much stronger and produce larger spikes of bloom. So far as we know all who have ex- perimented with it, agree that properly cultivated for bee forage, it pays well. Mr. J. E. Johnson, editor of the Utah PomologisU writes us as follows; "After a continued experience of ten years I find that mignonette is the best honey plant I have found. It is almost as hardy, and blos- soms as late as any honey plant, and is an ever bloomer, giving myriads of blossoms, and is covered continually by the bees. I find there is no plant that will furnish as much honey the year round, nor none that gives it better flavor. I believe that one acre of mignonette would 178 MUSTARD AND TUBNIPS. furnish sufScieut pasturage for one hundred stocks of bees. Certainly I have nothing in my list of plants, unless it is the English mustard, that bees work more freely on. Honey made from this plant has the most delicious flavor of any we have ever tasted, and where it has been tested in market, is far ahead of California or any other brands of honey and brings much higher price. " Mr. "Wm. Thompson, of Michigan, confirms these statements general- ly, from his own experience in raising this plant, and adds, "Bee- keepers, after this, need not concern themselves about selecting a favor- able location for their apiary. They can make it what they will, at very little expense. An acre of land put into good fertile condition, and planted in mignonette, will accomplish all that is necessary to render the situation as favorable as any that can be found. This adds another to the discoveries, which are rendering bee-keeping a thoroughly estab- lished science, and giving the bee-keeper an entire control of the situation." The seed is about twice as large as that of the turnip, and it requires from one and one-half to two pounds to the acre. It can be obtained from any florist or from this office by the package, ounce, or pound. It costs about $1. 50 per pound, twenty-five cents per ounce, or ten cents per paper. The established sweet varieties are, we believe, the best for honey. MUSTAED AND TUKNIPS. Next to mignonette stands mustard, as one to be cultivated for honey. It blossoms at the time of the drought between white clover and buckwheat. It should be sown in Spring as early as the weather and soil will permit, planting from four to six quarts to the acre. It i« DIAP.r OF HONEY PliANTS. 179 best to sow it in drills one foot apart, though it is often sown in beds. In rich soil the stalks are from three to five feet high, and are covered with blossoms. This is not alone useful for honey. The tops make a good salad in early spring, and manufacturers of mustard for table use pay a good price for it. The black mustard yields honey most abundantly. The turnip blossoms at the proper time to furnish good pasturage during the drought, just after the fruit trees yield is over. In the Southern States, when turnips are not winterkilled, the small ones left in the ground in the fall, will produce an abundance of flowers, rich in honey, at this season. From the Northwest various annuals rich in honey, are reported such as Chickweed, Smartweed, Spanish Needle, Silk Poppy, the Minne- sota bee plant, and the Eocky Mountain bee plant. Besides these a variety are found in almost every section, differing according to climate, which yield honey to a greater or less extent. Among these are the blossoms of melons, pumpkins, squash, and cucumbers, peas of dif- ferent kinds, tho snap dragon, the wild parsnip, which in some regions is very valuable, heaths, holly hocks, sunflowers, and many others. Among all these there are none which we would recommend to be cultivated for honey save fruit trees, and raspberries, with basswood, and other superior trees from the list for shade trees, and groves; and as crops, buckwheat, mustard, turnips, and mignonette, as recom- mended before. "We must always remember that any given honey producing plant or tree does not uniformly secrete the same quantity of nectar one year 180 MUSTAED AND TUKNIPS. with another, although it may be profuse in blossoms, since much depends upon the state or condition of the air and soil, during its period of bloom ; yet, it is also true that many plants blooming at the same time require very different conditions of the atmosphere in order to secrete the largest quantity of which they are capable, some require a dry, others a humid, and many an intermediate condition. This is a field for future examination and experiment. CHAPTEE VIIL MONTHLY MANAGEMENT. This department, the experienced bee-keeper will not so mucli need, as the beginner, for he has learned when to attend to his bees; but the novice continually needs timely advice and warning, least he neglect something, to the great detriment of his apiary. Even the experienced bee-keeper may be assisted in rendering prompt attention, by such a reminder; for all are aware how prone we are to neglect, or postpone, that which is of importance, unless reminded of our duty. We do not here propose to include everything which must be borne in mind, but will give general directions which will necessarily involve some repeti- tion of what has gone before, which, we trust, is pardonable. JANUARY. Careful apiarians, by this time, have their hives all properly arranged, either in dry cellars; or, as we prefer and recommend, on the summer stands, as heretofore directed, unless in very severe climates. If winter- ed indoors, let the bees remain as quiet as possible; only examining occasionally to see that no mice are interrupting them. If on the sum- mer stands, they should be examined often, guarding tho entrance against mice, who love the warmtb of the cluster, unless the entrance is so dosed that they cannot enter. Throughout the w inter a board should 182 FEBKUAET, shade the entrance, so that the sunshine may not tempt them out, unless it is quite warm. If the alighting board be hinged to the bottom board, by two small staples, driven in opposite directions in each, it may be turned up when needed for shade, and turned down when they can fly. The board will prevent sun and rain from driving in at the entrance. Hives covered with light snow are protected in the best possible man- ner against cold weather, but when it begins to pack and freeze it should ba lemoved from the entrance, or at least from the holes in the caps, when packed with absorbing material, as heretofore recommended. Do no feeding in this month, unless the bees are about to run out of stores, and then give a frame of honey, ©r place honey boxes directly over the cluster. If these are wanting feed with plain white candy. If the candy is burnt in making it is not a suitable food for the bees. In warm climates these directions are not so important as where the weather is cooler. During this and other winter months, the bee-keeper should prepare his hives, boxes and crates, and whatever is necessary about the apiary, so that he may not be pressed when the bees begin to need his attention, and perhaps the farm, orchard, garden, or other business calls for a share of his efforts. FEBRUARY. Keep the bees still as quiet as possible, where the weather remains cold and wintry. But if a warm day comes, uncover the entrance and let the bees have a -good fly. They can then finish the winter, until the weather tempts them out. Any undue excitement by jaring or, in any wise disturbing them in cold weather, is very injurious. The bottom board should be cleared of all obstructions, and the dead bees swept out. If left, they injure the colony. If colonies wintered indoors MONTHLY MANAGEMENT. 183 show signs of uneasiness, they should be taken quickly to their summer stands on a warm day for a fly, and returned quickly in the afternoon, when they have ceased to fly. In northern climates rye and oat meal may be fed, during February and March, in a sunny comer, protected from the cold winds : but in the South, natural pollen will be brought in during this month. After its appearance bees cannot be induced to use meal. Sueh feeding is useless, except in cold climates where the flowers are late in making their appearance. In the far South bees begin their spring work this month — gathering honey, and rearing brood, for the honey harvest and the swarming season is close at hand. Farther North, light stocks will need feeding, but where once commenced it should be continued regularly. When winter holds on well through February, no liquid food should be given, but candy or loaf sugar, as recommended for January. If bees are not permitted to fly during the winter, they are liable to dysentery. This disease is present whenever bees discharge their feces in a liquid state in the hive, on the bottom board, or on the combs. This disease seems to rise chiefly from feeding upon bad honey ; increased, perhaps, by improper ventilation, or too great exposure to extremes of weather. Bees have been retained in dry cellars for seven months, from Novem- ber till May, without bad efieots There is always danger from this disease when bees are confined to the hive for a long time without void- ing their feces, and their food is inferior. Sometimes fall honey is inferior in quality, or bees being near apple mills, store in a great deal of unwholesome sweet, or else have a supply of inferior food gathered from the honey dew. The best way to prevent dysentery in winter is, to extract inferior or unripe fall honey and feed sugar syrup, as describ- ed in "September Management," or else substituting sealed summer honey in its place. But if at any time dj'sentery appears among bees 184 MAECH, in winter, they should ba given an opportunity to fly and void their feces, as soon as possible. If the remaining stores seem to be bad they should then be fed with sugar candy, or if near spring, with sugar syrup. Sudden exposure to cold seems to increase the tendency to the disease ; whilst when in warm comfortable quarters, they generally void their feces in a dry state in winter. Combs soiled by bees having dysentery should be washed by a small stream of water from a syringe, and may be returned to the bees in the Spring. As in January, take care that all the necessary hives, tools, and im- plements are in readiness for summer. MARCH. This is the trying time on bees, and the seed time for the apiarian. Every hive should be examined, and if stores are scant, they should be supplemented. We cannot too strongly insist on the importance of regular feeding, if once begun. The feeders should be placed under the quilt, so that the bees can get at the warm liquid food, without leaving the cluster. They should not be fed in the morning for two reasons. First, Because it is apt to induce robbing ; and, Secondly, Because when they have warm food during the day, bees are tempted to fly out, and many will thus be chilled. The auger feeder, described under "Feed- ing " answers well for this season of the year. The syrup should be made quite thin, as bees need much water. Early in March, or six weeks before fruit blossoms will appear, each colony should be confined, to only so many combs as it can well fill, by a movable division board until the combs are pretty well filled with brood, and at intervails of from five to ten days, the combs opened and an empty one inserted. By this means the heat of the colonies is retained, the queen stimulated, and brood reared very rapidly. Be cautious not to expand more rapidly MONTHL? MANAGEMENT 185 than the increasing bees can fully cover the combs. The ventilation from above, should now be stopped and the quilts kept tightly packed, ,' BO as to retain the heat of the hive for rapid development. When there is \ abundant honey in sealed comb, bees ai^ stimulated to use it by clip- .« ping off the caps and putting it in the broodnest. If there is sufficient honey in the combs no other feeding should be done at all, unless it is to be kept up regularly until the first blossoms appear. Guard carefully against robbing, by leaving no syrup or comb exposed, and by contract- ing the entrances, especially of weak stocks. If any hive is found ' queenless, it should be promptly united with some weak colony, and the combs preserved for use in the summer. It is a loosing business to attempt to keep a queenless colony. Before they can rear a queen they will almost certainly be lost from dwindling, robbing, or worms. But if united with a weak one, it makes it strong, and almost doubles its value. In the far North rye meal should be continued until flowers appear, but when wintered indoors we advise always to keep them in until the last of April or the first of May. If such colonies become un- easy, take them to their summer stands, (being careful to place each upon the site occupied the year before, to prevent confusion when they take their flight) and return them until the cold weather seems to be well over. Colonies wintered in the cellar are not prepared to stand the changes to which they are subject, if set out too early, and the result is great loss by "Spring Dwindling." Some bee-keepers advise setting such on their summer stands about the middle of this month and begin to feed artificial pollen. If stores are plentiful and sweet, such hives - will go forward gradually with breeding in the cellar, and when warm weather begins to stir Ihem, they are in much better condition than if set out earlier. March or April is a good time to buy bees in old hives for transft ring. 186 APRIL. The selected stock should be strong in bees, with dark straight comb and not a last year's swarm, because m this is an old queen. One that has swarmed the preceeding year is much to be preferred as this has a young fertile queen. If attention is given regularly to feeding small quantities of syrup every evening, from ttis time until flowers appear, you may expect large stocks and much honey. This is especially desirable when red rasp- berries are abimdant. APRIL. This is the month in which bees need the most care. There are few sections in which honey is gathered, except in the far South, though bees are active bringing pollen, and raising young bees in abundance. In any locality it is important that the queen should be laying rapidly six weeeks before the fruit trees blossom, ot before the first expected yield of honey. During this month bees consume large quantities of honey in rearing brood. If stores are scant but few bees will be raised, and, perhaps, the abundant brood in the cells will be destroyed. Bees often starve at this season of the year, because the honey is consumed more rapidly than supposed. It is well to continue the operation of spreading the comb and inserting an empty one, or comb -foundation, every eight or ten days when the bees are doing well; being careful not to spread more rapidly than the increasing bees demand. If combs on hand are filled with sealed honey, chp the caps and place it in the centre. The bees will rapidly use and remove the honey, and the comb be appro- priated to brood-rearing. Be careful to place no drone comb in the midst of the broodnest at this season, unless drones are desired very early for the purpose of Italianizing. If this is desired a sheet placed in MONTHLY MANAGEMENT. 187 the centre the first of this month, will give drone as early as swarming is generally desirable in the Middle States. This should be regulated by the climate. Regular feeding, with thin sugar syrup, about sunset during this month pays well, in additional stores later in the season. But even where the stocks are all strong and feeding deemed unnecessary, it is well to feed in the caps during any continued cold or rainy spell in this month and May. In this month bees from the cellar should be set on the summer stands •except far North, where, if they remain quiet, it may be best to wait until the first of May. This should be regulated by the season. They should be set out as soon as warm weather seems to have come and blossoms begin to appear. In setting out bees, open only a few stocks at a time, until the excitement of first flight is over. In the far north continue feeding rye and oat meal this month, so long as the bees will take it. In the far South the swarming season is approaching and the direc- tions for May and June are more appropriate. In the far North, March management applies. These notes apply more especially to the great middle section of the country. As bees are rapidly increasing during this month, common sense teaches us to take away absorbing material and cover the broodnest as closely as possible with warmer covering, so as to prevent upward ventilation and retain as much as possible of the animal heat of the hive. There is no danger of getting the hive too hot in this month, except in the far South. Sunshine on the hive«timulates them in spring. "Wherever the wild cherry abounds it is best to give no room for storage of surplus honey from this source. Its honey is excel- lent for building up colonies, but unpleasantly bitter for table use. At this season kill every worm or miller that may be seen. This saves trouble, as each one now rears four generations during summer. 188 MAY, Be careful in Spring, and then keep strong stocks, and the danger from worm is very small, especially if Italian or hybrid bees are kept. April and May are, perhaps, the best months for transferring. April in the South, and May farther North, when the first great brood rearing is over. If any queenless stocks still remain, unite them as recommend- ed in March . Feeble colonies should be reinforced by a frame of hatch- ing brood, placed in the centre, during this month. Do not cut away comb because it is dark or even mouldy. Mouldy or soiled comb can be easily renovated by water and the extractor, or with a strong syringe. Combs in which bees have died should be cleared of dead bees, even if it be necessary to scrape away a part of the cells on one or both sides of the comb. MAY. If care has been given as recommended, all stocks in mild latitudes should be crowded with brood in all stages of development. In the far North the stimulating of April is now in progress and in the Southern States the honey harvest is well begun. There the June management best applies to this month. It seems to be the instinct of bees at this season to rear as much brood as possible. If any honey is to be gathered they bring it in rapidly. The more honey they get and the more they are fed the more rapidly they increase, provided the broodnestis not filled with it. If cold, windy, or rainy weather continue for several days, hives are very much checked in development and injured. Hence, under such circumstances, they should always be fed. Let the sun shine on the hives as much as pos- sible during this month. Different management should be followed this month, if rapid increase of stocks is desired, instead of surplus honey. MONTHLY MANAGEMENT. 189 If increase of stocks is the object much, feeding is required, and new comb continually inserted to the capacity of ten or twelve frames, ac- cording to size. As soon as drones begin to hatch, by the middle or last of May. divide the strongest hive, by finding the queen and removing the comb to which she adheres and one or two more to a new hive, add- ing from two to four frames of artificial comb, according to the strength of the colony. Kemove the old hive to a new locality and place the new one upon the old stand. The old one will rear a number of queen cells ready for insertion into other hives as swarms are made by either of the methods recommended under ' ' Artificial Swarming. " We would advise the above method or that of taking two combs from each of four hives and inserting empty ones in their places for beginners, giving each a queen cell, when made. The novice should never attempt to more than double his colonies. He may expect the best results if he only makes one new swarm from each two, especially if he uses the extractor. We would advise getting an extractor, even though not more than two hives are kept. These directions, concerning swarming, apply in many places to June, according to strength of colonies. If bees begin to " lay out " when the hives are crowded, they should be divided, the combs extracted, artificial foundation given, or honey boxes put on. Sometimes giving boxes will not set bees to work, and unless an extractor is at hand they should be divided. If surplus honey and not increase is sought, the extractor is almost essential. If it is freely used there is much less danger of swarm- ing. Sometimes bees will take the swarming fever. If so, it is best to swarm them, raise young queens, as described above, and then reunite them with the young queens, giving ample surplus space in boxes at the top and sides, or by filling both the upper and lower chambers with combs, and foundation combs wlien the extractor is chiefly relied on. 190 JUNE. In June we will give specific directions concerning putting on, and the management of boxes, which in middle latitudes where honey appears in abundance, should be used this month. Hives with young queens are much more apt to make worker comb, if empty frames are given, than those with old queens, which make more drone comb. The best way to prevent swarming is by giving empty comb every few days, between two brood combs, by using the extractor freely on the combs in the broodnest, by giving ample surplus boxes, or by placing the hive above another having empty comb below, and closing all the entrances into the upper one, except through the lower. But if the swarming fever has once begun it cannot well be cured, except by dividing, after which they may be reunited. If empty combs at any time are not in use, they should not be packed in a box, or moth eggs will soon hatch and destroy them. Hang them singly in a cool cellar or out building, where the air can pass around them and they are not apt to be injured. JUNE. . In -most sections in the North and Middle States this month is the great harvest time for the bee-keeper. It is also the great swarming season and every bee-keeper, who relies on natural swarming, must now keep constant watch over his bees. Whenever bees are hived it is always well to put a card of honey and brood from the old stock into the hive. This will usually prevent the swarm from leaving the hive, and also furnish necessary supplies should a few days of cool, rainy weather immediately follow. For modes of hiving, and dividing artificially, see the chapter on this subject. There is always danger of hives becoming queenless after swarming, as the queen may be lost on her bridal tour, or fail to reach the right hive. MONTHLY MAKAGEMENT. 191 Such a queenless hive will soon become weak, and is liable to be destroy- ed by worms or robbers if not watched. Queenless stocks do not defend themselves as others. It is better to unite such stocks with others, un- less queen-cells or young queens are at hand to give them, and afterwards divide ag lin, if increase is desired. Be careful to remove drone combs from the brood nest that time and honey be not wasted in rearing too many. To prevent the swarming fever proceed as described in May, by using the extractor, doubling up, and exchanging combs ; or else give timely access to the honey boxes. At first only a small amount of surplus room should be given each hive. After the bees begin to work well in this, other boxes may be added. If starters of comb or comb foundation be placed in the boxes the bees will more readily commence on them. At the commencement of a good honey flow at the last of May, or during this month each hive should have some surplus room if box honey is desired. As the season progresses, and the bees are rapidly working, these may be increased by removing and giving new boxes, by removing from the side to the top, or by lifting one tier of boxes and inserting another, according to the arrangement of the hive and the box prepared. Bees store faster in the lower chamber, and seal up the honey more quickly above. Where one has time, perhaps, the most profitable way to manage for honey is, to combine the use of the extrac- tor and boxes. Build up rapidly in the spring, as described. Then in June — having the hive full of bees — contract the broodnest to six or eight frames— as many as the queen will keep full of brood. On each sida place brood frames full of small boxes, hanging in the hives just as the regular frames. (See "Hives "and "Surplus Honey,") Two on each side are sufficient. If boxes larger than four and one half inches square are used, wire framed division boards, with proper openings, must 102 JUiiT. be used between them and the broodnest. These frames can be con- stantly shifted, placing a full one above to be capped, moving out the inner one and inserting between it and the broodnest a frame filled with other boxes. As honey is rapidly stored in the broodnest, it may be extracted before it is capped over, the thickest and best drawn off from below and bottled, and the rest refei to the bees, to be stored in the boxes. This can be done to a great advantage during a honey drought, 50 as to keep the queen rapidly laying, and the stock strong for future work. Where the extractor is used regularly it wilj. be found much best to have a few extra combs, and as the combs to be extracted are removed replace them with others, and close up the hive. By keeping the frames in a carrying box, well covered they are exposed but a little time to robbers. If robbers abound they should be carried to a close barn or outer room and extracted. The best time for extracting is in the middle of the day, during a good honey harvest, when most of the old bees are absent in the fields. They will then scarcely notice the honey. Extract from two combs at a time. Clipp off the caps with a sharp knife, (see " Extractor") and hang them on opposite sides, close against the wire frame. Now turn the extractor a few moments until the honey is thrown from the sides next the wire cloth, and then turn the other sides 3f the combs to the wire cloth and turn as before. New combs, or those tiaving in them pollen or brood should be turned very gently. JULY. Keep a constant watch for queenless colonies, and do not let them dwindle away. Prompt attention saves the colony. All the hives should be kept strong by regular feeding after sunset if pasturage fails. Care should be used at such times in opening hives. Always smoke the MONTHLY MANAGEMENT. 193 bees well before attempting it, and move gently, because bees are much more vicious when there is no honey in the fields. Keep boxes on and continue to extract according to the honey supply. If small boxes are used in large frames they may be removed or ex- changed with ease, just as the regular frames, by smoking the bees and then brushing them off with a green twig. "When boxes are to be re- moved too much smoke will cause them to eat the caps from the honey. If section boxes, or any with more than one comb is used, it is often dif- ficult to rid the boxes of bees when they are removed, and there is dang- er of losing the young bees by the method recommended, viz., putting into a box or barrel, and covering it with a sheet, which is turned over frequently as the escaping bees cluster upon it. A successful method is to have each hive numbered and as boxes are removed number them accordingly. Upon this place a corresponding box, with holes open between them, and lay them with the empty box uppermost in the honey house. The young bees will ascend into it. It is then closed and placed upon the hive from which the box is taken. This, however, is troublesome, The best way to remove them when honey is abundant and bees are gathering it rapidly, is to take off the boxes and set them by the hives in the evening. In the morning early the bees will be out, and they should then be removed. Boxes should be watched for a few weeks after they are taken off. If the weather ia warm and worms begin to hatch, they should be smoked with sulphur. It is most successfully used by heating a large piece of iron. Put it in an iron vessel and pour the flour of sulphur upon it- In this way there is no danger from fire. (See under " Honey Boxes.") In sections where darker honey is gathered the last of this month, the nice white basswood, or clover honey comb should be promptly re- moved before it is soiled, or the white honey extracted before it is injur- 194 AUGUST. ed by admixture with the darker. During hot weather be careful always to give the broodnest good ventilation, but keep the boxes closed for wax working. AUGUST. In many places but little honey is gathered this month/ but in others the main summer supply is laid away. Of course different manage- ment applies, according to location. If honey abounds, continue treat- ment as in July — keeping each hive supplied with boxes, or extracting frequently. "Where dark buckwheat is plentiful we advise giving frames of foundation in exchange for sealed combs, which should be set away for winter. We advise this especially where bees can be gotten in the fall from neighbors who " take up " their bees and where aster, golden- rod, smartweed, or other fall flowers abound, which produce good honey. This can be saved and the less salable buckwheat honey be substituted for winter, or used for filling hives for bees gotten from neighbors. This is the best month for Italianizing if it is done by purchasing q^ueens, because they are cheaper than at any other time of the year ; the hives are not necessarily disturbed during their previous work, and they go into winter quarters just right to turn out good Italian workers for the next season. Be careful always to have brood reared plentifully this month and next, even if feeding is necessary, because hives strong with young bees in the fall, winter much better, and develope much more rapidly in the spring than those that cease rearing brood at this season of the year. Whenever no good honey harvest is expected after this, care should be promptly taken to see that empty cells are in the centre of the hive for broodrearing, and that there is a full amount of supplies given for winter. MONTHLY Mi-NAGEMENT. 195 During the honey drought in this month, or whenever the bees cease to find honey in the fields, they are much more difficult to handle and much more given to robbing than at any other season. In opening or removing boxes be as gentle as possible, and always smoke well before opening a hive. Keep all stocks strong. If any seems weak build it up by inserting from one able to spare it, a comb or two of hatching brood. Keep the entrances contracted so as to prevent robbing. If it has fairly commenced stop it as recommended under "Eobbing,' Leave no sweets or bits of comb exposed. If box honey is placed in a cool dry cellar there is less danger from hatching worms; and less yet if the combs are set on a shelf an inch or ^wo apart, so as to permit the free circulation of air around them. SEPTEMBER. This month's operations are very important in preparing hives for winter. Unsealed late honey is generally poor winter food for bees^ Hence if close extracting be continued late there is always danger, un- less full sealeld combs have been set away for them, or unless this be extracted and good sugar syrup be given as recommenced in the chapter on " "Wintering." Bat where many fall flowers abound the main sur- plus of the year is sometimes gathered this month. Hence prompt at tention should be given. To gather this fall honey the extractor is almost invaluable; for it will be not be stored in boxes when comb must be built anything like so rapidly as in the brood nest, which instinct teaches them must be filled now for winter. This, like August, is a good time to introduce Italian queens or others in order to secure new brood, which is, as we believe, no less important with bees than other live stock. Keep no queenless stocks beyond this month, unless queens are ex- 196 OCTOBEB. pected to be introduced, and in that case insert a comb or two of hatcb- ing brood from some that can spare tbem, in order to secure a supply of young bees for winter. "Where little honey is gathered, the last of July and throughout August, but the fall harvest is good, the best time to divide bees is just after the summer harvest closes. By regular feeding during this time all the necessary queens may be reared, a good increase obtained, and the hives are all strong with bees to gather the fall honey and are also in the best condition for wintering. In readjusting the comb for winter in this month or next, according to climate and honey flow, be careful always to give each hive a comb or two containing bee-bread, and in northern latitudes to cut a hole in each comb for winter passages, as recommended under "Wintering.'' Queens known to be. old should always be replaced by young ones in the fall, even though you have to purchase the young queen. With a little care a supply of young queens may be easily kept on hand this time of the year. If feeding is necessary feed as rapidly as possible, unless it is desirable to stimulate bioodrearing. Directions as to modes of ship- ping honey will be given next month. In this month do not fail to contribute to, and carefully examine the bee department in your local and State fairs. You can there often get valuable information. But if there is no interest taken in this subject go to work and show its importance, and let the people know the great advantages of improved bee culture over old methods. OCTOBER. Except in the South complete all arrangements for winter early this month, and there where the honey flow ceases. See that each hive has proper absorbing material above, holes in the caps to give upward MO:^sTHLS MANAGEMENT 197 ventilation, the entrances contracted so as to keep out mice, and all snug for winter. Spare combs should be carefully preserved and laid away for use in the spring. Small and queenless colonies should be united, winter passages made, old queens superseded, and young ones intro- duced. Queens may be reared thus late by keeping one strong colony queenless, so that it will retain drones for fertilization. Some stocks if not extracted may have too much honey. If so equal- ize them by exchanging with some poorer colony, and see that some empty comb is left near the bottom of the central frames for clustering. In modern climates sufficient passage is given from comb to comb for winter by laying a stick an inch in diameter across the frames, under the quilt, but in cold climates both this and holes in the comb are recom- mended. Kemember that the essentials of good wintering are, a plenty of young bees with a fertile queen, an abundance of good sealed honey easily accessible, and warmth with proper ventilation. A good cotton quilt with three or four thicknesses of batting, makes perhaps, as good as any obsorbing material. It is light and may be easily removed for feeding or for examination. To unite bees smoke them thoroughly and sprinkle them with sweeten- ed water, strongly scented with anise or peppermint, and either shake the bees altogether into an empty box, using as many of the best combs as are necessary in the new hive, and then pour the bees at the entrance of the hive, or after smoking and sprinkling well put one frame alter- nately from each hive into the new hive, brushing all the bees off at the extrance and set this new hive in an intermediate position between the two. If any boxes have remained on till this month they should be now removed and packed as neatly as possible in crates with glass sides, as recommended under the head of "Crates." If your honey is extracted 198 NOVEMBER. drain off any thin honey on the top of your jar or bottle. Seal it up neatly, labeling it with your name, apiary, and kind of honey, and then sell as conveniently to your ownhome as you can to advantage. It is al- ways well to let the people know the superiority of honey gathered by im- proved methods so as to build up a local trade and increase consumption. Boxes of comb honey should be packed rather tight in crates. In mak- ing large shipments it is best to attend the car to see that they are handled safely. Small amounts may be sent securely in shipping boxes in which the crates are supported on small wire coil springs or rubber tubing. NOVEMBER. The honey season is now over, and all the hives should have been pre- p'ared for winter, but if a few have been neglected they may be so prepared on some warm day in this month. If hives are to be taken indoors they should not be carried in before the cold weather has set in in earnest, or it may be necessary to return them to their summer stands because of uneasiness. The later they are housed the better, provided the weather continues open, so that the bees can fly and void their feces. It is better to take them in the day after they have flown freely. Before cold weather sets in, colonies to be wintered on summer stands, should be packed with absorbing material, and given upward ventilation through it. In the far South some parts of October management best suits this month. Unite all weak stocks after smoking well, as recommended last month. They will not fight much now when united. See that all unused hives or implements are carefully housed for the winter. DECEMBER: This should be a month of repose with the bees. Less brood is reared in November and December than in any other pari of the year. Now is MO:STHLr MANAGEMENT 199 the time to study the bee business, prepare hives, crates and boxes, and all necessary implements. Decide with regard to setting out shade trees for their honey qualities, orchards, and cultivation of honey crops so as to be able to secure seed or young trees for planting when the time comes. See that hives are protected from cold winds, and occasionally clear the dead bees from the bottom board. As in January, keep the bees quiet as possible. We would advise beginners especially to study carefully this Monthly Management, and use practical good sense in following it, accord- ing to climate, the particular season, and the honey flow at the time. In bee-keeping it is of the first importance that the right thing be done at the right time. CHAPTER IX. HIYES. The value of a hive depends upon its size, shape, and the advantages secured in its construction. SIZE. Experience has demonstrated that, as a general rule, when we varj from the correct size, the larger the hive the fewer swarms we get, ai-d the smaller the hive, the smaller the swarms will be, and the greater the danger of over-swarming. A hive should contain about two thousand cubic inches, in the clear. A stock m a hive of this size, will swarm more regularly than from a larger one, and store more surplus honej. While, if the hive be much smaller, the colonj will often fail to lay up provisions enough for our long winters. All the hives should be made of the same size, as a very large swarm will usually be no larger, after a few months, than one of medium size, while a small swarm may be as large as any at the end of the season, much depending upon its having a prohfic queen, good weather aL^ abundant pasturage. SHAPE. Upon the shape of the hive, depends the economy of heat for breeding, and safety in wintering. If a hive of proper size be HIVES. 201 too high, less box honey is obtained ; but if too shallow, it not only takes more workers to cover the lower part of the combs, to protect them from the moth, and keep up the required heai for breeding, but the winter stores are scattered over so large a surface, and of so Httle depth, that although the heat arising from the swarm will keep the honey warm directly above the bees, they soon consume that to the top of the hive. "Wher this happens in very cold weather, if there are no holes through the combs, the bees die of starvation, as it is certain death foi them to venture around the edge of the frosty combs by which they are surrounded. Hence, swarms often perish with ample stores in the hive. For these evident reasons, we would recommend that frames be long and shallow in warm climates, and deeper and shorter according to climate, approximating to a square where it becomes very cold. More box honey can be secured with shallow frames, both because there is more surface for boxes, and because bees store more readily near the broodnest. But this advantage is counterbalanced in cold climates by the greater depth for wintering, the greater ease of extracting, and the greater depth for boxes beside the broodnest when shorter and deeper frames are used. " THE ADVANTAGES SECURED IN THE CONSTRUCTION OP HIVES." Centuries ago, inteUige'nt men were convinced that, if complete control of the bees and combs could be obtained, bee-keeping must become a sure and systematized business, both pleasant and profitable. The practice of murdering whole colonies, with the brimstone match, for their stores, was gradually abandoned by th^ introduction of surphis honey boxes, with glass p'^««* in 202 ORIGIN OF MOVABLE-FRAMES. which the bees would store their tempting sweets in the most beautiful and marketable form. Yet bee culture still bore the stigma of a business of ^^luch and chance" or working in the dark, and all attempts at improvement were failures, as there were no facilities for examining the interior of the hive to learn :he cause of or apply a remedy for any defect that might there exist. But "necessity is the mother of invention." This dark- ness was first gradually dispelled, in Europe, by the invention of a movable -comb hive, called the " Leaf Hive," by Francis Huber, of Geneva, as early as 1795. It had long been known, that bees would start and build their combs with considerable regularity from strips placed across the top of the hive, by which the combs oould be lifted out by cutting loose their side attachments from the hive. These " bars " led to. *'bar frames," which are most briefly described in Mr. , Langstroth's Patent, referred to in note on page 140, in which he shows that he is the inventor of the shallow chamber and some other features connected therewith, which will be understood by the descriptions ^9. Tayior'i Frame. which he gives of previous inventions, which we abbreviate as follows : The Huber frame consisted of sections, the top and side bars fitting close together, with no honey receptacles above, but the necessity of cutting the side attachments of the comb was obviated. "W. Augustus Munn, Esq., invented the "bar and frame hive," and pubHshed a description of it in London, in 1844. Li 1851, he pubhshed a second edition of his pamphiet, in which, describ vng hia "improved hive," he says he has "very materially HITES. 203 simplified the construction of the bar and frame hive, by forming the oblong bar-frames into triangular frames, and making them lift out at the top instead of the back of the bee-box." M. Debeauvoy published the second edi- tion of his "Guide del Apiculteur," as early as 1847, in which he describes his 10. Oblong Munn Frame. movable frames with narrow tops and side bars, the tops fitting closely to the honey -board above, and the sides to the walls of the hive. In 1851, he pubhshed his third edition in Paris, in which he describes his new frames, having their sides at suitable distances from the bottom and walls of the hive, with the tops fitting closely together, but still in connection with a honey -board above the top bars. Thus, movable-comb frames were much improved and used in many parts of Europe, by Huber, Debeauvoy, Munn, Taylor, Bevan, Golding, Huish, Dzierzon and others, while the " brimstone match " bore sway in America. But, the key to successful bee-keeping once found, nothing could stop its progress. The bounds of the Atlantic were passed, and many in our country became acquainted with Hiiber's " Leaf Hive " and movable-comb system. HIVE ESSENTIALS. There are now made many good movable comb hives among which the beginner should make choice, and have all the hives in the apiary made just alike, so that any frame or any part of a hive will fit any other hive. Exact workmanship is of the first importance. There is now no patent on any important part of movable comb hives, and any person can 204 HIVES. make plain wooden ones as he desires. Perhaps the best way is for each beginner, if unable to make his own hives and boxes, to get such good hives as are manufactured most convenient to him, and at the best rates from good lumber. "We recommend simple stands made of a bottom board the width of the hive and four or five inches longer for an alighting board. This should be nailed to 2x4 inch strips so as to place the hives near the ground. The hive should be hinged on the back end of this, to be raised for cleaning off the bottom board. The frames should hang on metal stips one-fourth of an inch above the edge of the rabbits to pre vent killing bees when handling them, and also to prevent the ends of the frames from being glued down too tightly with propolis. The alight- ing board should slant from the front, that overladen bees may craw* in when blown down by the wind. We recommend that the cap be of the same frame dimensions as the body of the hive so as to be used as a double hive — with two tiers of frames for extracting if desired. The top should be one solid board with good cleats underneath, or if made of two pieces the boards should be well seasoned and tongued and groved and glued to prevent leaking. Formerly honey boards were used above the frames to hold surplus boxes, but they are difficult to make and not so convenient as quilts. These should be made from a simple sheet of ducking or other firm material in which the bees will not gnaw holes. They should be a little larger than the space to be covered, so as to tuck down well and cover the bees, and the cloth be well shrunk before making, lest they become too small after using for a time. They should be hemmed and in the centre of each a small hole for feeding, covered with a flap, which is raised only when needed. Honey boxes may be set directly on the tops of the frames, or better upon strips resting on the frames, and the quilt HrVB ESSENTIALS. 205 tucked around them to keep in the heat. When sections are used in wide frames they should be closed at the side with a follower which may be tied or held in place by a foot piece which prevents its falling over. Perhaps the best way to manage boxes is to place them in wide two inch frames. These may be either of the dimensions of the regular frame or half the depth so as to hold only one row of small boxes. Two tiers of the latter are used at the sides of the broodnest and one or two above, as desired or as seems necessary. (See "Honey Boxes," p. 56.) These wide frames which hold the honey boxes of the same width have on one side strips of tin wide enough to leave passages for the bees at the bottom and top into the honey boxes of one-fourth to three- eights of an ineh. By this means the comb is secured accurately in boxes which may afterwards be covered with glass or not, as prefered and packed uniformly in crates to suit the market. Two close fitting division boards should belong to each hive for con- tracting it when necessary and to be used in packing for winter. "When not needed below they can be hung in the upper box. Narrow strips of heavy wood having one end cut diagonally make excellent entrance blocks. The bee-keeper should make his hives during winter when not pressed with work, and have a full supply of boxes, and crates, or barrels on hand when the honey season opens. It is too late to make them when the bees begin to need attention. Success depends greatly in pro- vidence for the busy time, and prompt attention when demanded in the apiary. PAINTING AND CLOUDING HIVES. Hives should be painted as soon as made, and three or four weeks before being used, as the smell of fresh paint is offensive to the bees. They may be painted every shade of color, for the sake of variety, but 206 red is most apt to be noticed from a distance, while white or clouded looks best near by. To cloud a hive, paint it white, and while the last coat is fresh, place the hive in a horizontal position, passing under it the smoke and blaze of a lamp with a small round wick. If the clouding be done in a room out of the wind, with a little practice the hives may be made to resemble marble, and are very ornamental, although it costg nothing for material, and can be done in five minutes. OBSEBVING HIVES. Nearly all of the facts in the physiology of the honey bee may h% tested bv having a glass hive, with a single comb taken from a full hivA in the parlor, office or sitting room. If more than one comb is used some of the operations will be hid and the queen will often be between them and invisible. Observing hives are of little use with more than one frame. The bottom should be made of thick board four inches wide Bore a hole in one end of this, so as to open up into the hive and make a small ventilator, and cover it with wire cloth. The two sides should be of glass, two inches apart, sliding into rabbets in the ends. The queen may be seen depositing eggs in such a hive, without danger, and if a comb with eggs, brood, and bees from an ordinary hive be given, the whole operation of forming queen cells, and rearing queens can be seen. The bottom board should extend three or four inches in front, so. that the bees enter from without the room. THE CIRCULAB HAW. One of the absolute necessities about the apiary is a circular saw. It may be run by loot power if the number of colonies is small, but for over twenty colonies, some other power will be required. Unless one is THE CIECTJIiAE SAW. 207 in the business pretty extensively he can buy the section frames more cheaply than he can make them, but even when these are bought, the saw is indispensible for cutting out frames, hives, and the multitude of smallpieces that are constantly needed. The saw being so useful, in this section, we propose to give some directions for managing it so as to have it work satisfactorily. In the first place it is necessary that the saw should be perfectly round. It should be screwed on to the mandrel, and a mark put on both, so that always afterward it may be replaced in exactly the same position, if it is ever required to be removed. Now, the mandrel should be placed in its bearings, and the belt put on, so that it may be just tight enough not to slip. Next an emery wheel should be laid upon the table over the saw slot, and then the table must be lowered until just the points of any teeth that may be longer than others will touch as the saw is turned. The saw must be run and the table lowered gradually till every tooth touches, when the saw will be round. The emery stone will not be in- jured, nor will the saw either, even if some teeth are ground off blunt. The point does the cutting, and if that is sharp, it does not matter how broad the tooth is. Next the saw is to be filed. The ripper can be filed best with a cant file. [See cut Fig. 1.] Large enough to fit the teeth Fig. 1. of the saw, which by the way, must be as small for the size of the saw as they are ever made. The cross-cut, is filed with the ordinary three- cornered file. The filing must be done entirely on the under side of the tooth, and should not be continued after the point is sharp. The under side of each tooth of the ripper should have the direction of a tangent to a circle of half the diameter of the saw, and if the cross-cut 208 of one-third tlie diameter. Fig. 2 will illustrate the meaning. The teeth on the left are correctly filed , the others incorrectly. The teeth may be filed slightly flairing by holding the file obliquely, especially of the cross-cut, as they are to be used generally in soft wood. The next operation is setting. This may be done with the ordinary saw-set, Fig. 2. made much like a knife with notches of different widths along the edge for bending the teeth; but a beginner will generally succeed best with one of the various patent affairs containing a gauge. Whatever is used the set must be as little as possible — ^just bending the point of the teeth outside the plane of the saw as in Fig . 3. So that the end of the kea-f is A Fig. 3. equare across, and not containing a point in the middle, as in Fig, 4. Fig, 4. However carefully the saw may be set, the teeth will probably not ail get exactly the same amount of bending; so to make them perfectly even the saw must next be jointed. This is done by turning it back- rOTJIi BKOOD. 209 ward and holding an oil stone first against one side and then the other. Next the saw is to be tried, to see if it is just right. It ought now to cut rapidly, straight and smoothly — every cut a glue joint. If it does not run straight— either drawing the board away from the gauge or wedging it so tightly as to stop — the trouble is either with the saw or the guage. Look at the end of the saw kerf, if it is pointed on one side or the other, the teeth on the pointed side are too long, and they must be filed again and thus shortened. If the kerf is square across, the trouble is with the guage. It must be made exactly parallel with the saw. If the further end is nearer the saw than the other, the piece will wedge; if nearer, the work can not be held close to the guage. The table should be raised so that the teeth just reach through the piece sawed. There ought to be a pretty heavy fly wheel connected with the saw, and as much difference between the size of the driving wheel and the puUy of the mandrel as convenient, so as to obtain as much speed as possible; But any arrangement of geared wheels to obtain speed is not satisfactory. rOUIi BEOOD. This is a disease which, as its name indicates, attacks the hrood, and soon destroys a colony by preventing any brood from coming to maturity. We are thankful that personally we know nothing of this disease. Those who have suffered from it pronounce it very fatal, though there seems to be several phases of the disease; some far more fatal than others. The disease is contagious, like small pox or cholera and like these is propagated by very small spores or germs, which attack brood and destroy it. To check or cure this disease the fungus growth must be destroyed. Salicylic acid has, by experiment in Germany been found to be des- 210 FEETIUZATION IN CONFINEMENT. tructive to this foreign growth, if properly applied. Yet some, among whom is John Hunter, state that it has failed with them in effecting a cure. From what we have been able to learn of the disease, we believe that the ordinary type may be cured by the application of the acid as recom- mended by Mr. Muth, of Cincinnati, as follows : Make a solution of 128 grains of salicylic acid, 128 grains soda borax, 16 ounces of water, [distillled preferred.] Spray this solution on the combs containing brood, after uncapping cells that are sealed. The solution does not in- jure the bees, but seems to kill the spores of the disease. The spores find their way into the honey and the disease is spread among bees that eat of the honey from an afiected hive. Doubtless robber bees help to scatter the disease. It is well in severe cases to remove the bees from the honey for three or four days and then place them in another hive. Eemove all affected combs to a single hive. If possible remove the queen, and the bees will clear out the combs. If it is desirable, sprinkle a second time with the salicylic acid mixture. But in case the disease seems to be of a very malignant type it may be best, if this remedy fails, and the bees deprived of their queen do not clean up the comb, to drive out the bees and after three or four days put them into new hives, and then use the heroic treatment; burying all the affected combs and thoroughly washing the hives with some disinfectant before being used. FEBTHJZATION IN CONFINEMENT. I As queens are fertilized on tJtie wing, every person who has reared Italian queens knows the difficulty of getting them purely mated, as they Dften meet black drones from distant apiaries. This trouble interferes much with the business ef queen rearing, since the bee master must wait several weeks to test the purity of a queen before sending her out, FEETILIZATION 12? CONFINEMENT. 211 or else sell merely as a fertile queen, at a reduced price. The desirabilL ty of fertilization in confinement, so as to be certain of purity, has been long felt, but has. until recently been considered impossible, and even now some are too incredulous to accept a fact, ' 'because I have not done it.^ Mrs. Tupper announced her success at artificial fertilization some years ago, but being pressed by business cares — almost broken hearted — and besides ridiculed for her statements, she did not fully carry out her experiments. She communicated her experience to others, who also reported success in a number of cases, -when the proper condition* ■were secured. Mr. Jno. F. Laflferty, of Illinois, states that he has many times suc- ceeded in sending out queens to mate by giving light on a bright day, when she is two or three days old. The trouble in all attempts at artifi- cial fertilization seems to be in ascertaining just when the queen is ready to meet the drone. Many things indicate that the subject is about meeting with a success- ful solution. One of our progressive appiarians informs me that he has this year sueceeded, not only in fertilizing his queens in confinement, but also in selecting the drone with which they shall mate. He has described to us the process which is very simple and practicable, but as he is already booked for a paper on " Fertilization in Confinement " at the National Convention, in October next, he will then make known his sys- tem to the public. So much progress has been made in seemingly im- possible matters, it seems strange that lovers of the art would, by un- timely derision, check needed experiments and progress. OHAPTEE X. BIOGRAPHY OF BEE-KEEPERS, Believing it a subject of interest to most bee-keepers, we devote this chapter to a brief sketch of several persons whose labors have helped to advance the cause of apistic science in modem times. Foremost of all stands Francis Huber, who was born at Geneva, in 1750. He is noted for many wonderful experiments and discoveries in the natural history, physical economy, and habits of the honey bee. By nature a clear and close observer, he was so assiduous in his duties that he lost his eye sight in early life. But nothing daunted, with wonderful perseverance, he continued his researches, using the eyes of his faithful servant, Francis Bemens, for making observations. In 1795 he invent- ed and used his Leaf Hive, which consisted of eight close fitting sections or frames, opening out on hinges, like the leaves of a book. (Doubtless his idea of combs in sections was derived from the observation hives used by naturalists in his day, and improvements on the Grecian hive having top bars and comb guides as described by Abbe Delia Becca, in his publication, in Paris, in 1790). The results of Huber's experiments may be summed up under four heads: First. As to Eggs. — That the queen lays two kinds of eggs. One kind BIOGBAPHT CP BEE-KEEPERS. 213 FRANCIS HUBER. 214 BIOGRAPHY OF — unfecundated — which producesmales or drones. The other— fertilized — which produces workers, and these — when developed with royal jelly in queen cells — ^produce perfect females or queens. Second. As to Queens. — That they are the orAj peTfect females; that they leave the hive early in life to meet the drones on the wing ; that they are incapable of fertilization after the third week of life, and ever after lay only drone eggs; that one impregnation lasts for life, after which they lay eggs regularly arranged in the comb, one egg in each cell; that workers which have been partially fed on royal jelly some- times lay eggs, but irregularly and only such as produce drones. He exploded the idea that workers were neuters, proving them to be un. developed females. Third. As to Pollen. —That pollen is the natural food of young bees or larvae, when prepared by the nursing bees ; that without it brood cannot be reared, and that honey is the chief food of the mature bees. Fourth. That wax is a secretion from the body of the bee, and not gathered as previously supposed. That it is made chiefly from the sac- charine part of honey. As his views were received and adopted, others were led to improve on the Leaf Hive. First, by changing the shape of the edges to prevent the destruction of bees in shutting the leaves, then by arrangements for elevating one frame at a time into a glass case for examination, then by using the simple bar, after the Grecian method, lifted from the top of the hive. Then with bar and frames on the principle of a hive within a hive modified and improved as found to-day among apiarians. Naturally bars led to frames. Huber obviated the necessity of cutting the comb loose by having it built in sections of the hive. But for practi" cal reasons the bar and frame was soon used within boxes answering the same purpose. BIOGEAPHT OP BEE-KEEPEES. 215 Henry Taylor, whose " Manual of Bee-keeping " was first published in 1838, describes a frame like the cut on page 197, in which uprights were used inside the hive to prevent bees from attaching combs to the hive. Major William Augustus Munn, so well known as the author of the revised edition of Dr. Bevan's booJs on the honey bee, as early as 1844, described his box with oblong bar and frame. He invented it in 1834, at twenty-four years of age, and after nine years of trial took out letters patent in Paris, in 1843. This was for a box and frame similar to those now in use. f See page 198. ; In 1844 he described them fully in a pamphlet published in London, and in 1851 it was fully exhibited at the great fair in London. In 1852 Mr. Lang^troth took out letters patent in America, somewhat simplyfying the same principles. About the same time Dzierzon, in Germany invented his new hive . Each seemingly independent of the other adopted similar hives. Major Munn was a genial, hospitable English gentleman of intelli- gence. Being an enthusiast on bee-culture, he spent much time in studying the nature and habits of bess. Like Quinby he wrote much on the subject for agricultural and other papers. His most lasting work is the revised edition of Dr. Bevan's great work on the honey bee— the most scientific work ever written on bees in England. Eobert Huish, who published his book on bees in 1840 and 1844. was a man of the highest culture and ability, a member of the Academy of Arts and Sciences, at GoUiugen, and honorary member of the Natural Institute of France. He seemed to have loved bees and bee-culture, but his work is interesting chiefly as illustrating the folly of theories not based on close observation. His book seems to have been written mainly to attack Huber and his theories. It shows how truth alone will survive 216 BIOGEAPHY op BEE-KEEPEBS. C T, ISTS, BY J.H.NELLia &BRO., PUBLISHERS, CANAJOHARIE, N.Y. //. U^n^^